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THE 


IMPERIAL  GAZETTEER 
OF  INDIA 


VOL.    XVII 


MAHBUBABAD  to  MORAdABAD 


NEW  EDITION 

PUBLISHED   UNDER  THE  AUTHORITY  OF  HIS  MAJESTY  S 
SECRETAk1!   OF  STATE  FOR  INDIA  IN  COUNCIL 


MICROFC        U  BY 
PREScRV.         .^ 

nATC    MAR  0  3  1987 

DATE., 


OXFORD 

AT    THE    CLARENDON    PRESS 

iqo8 


HENRY  FROWDE,  M.A. 

PUBLISHER   TO   THE   UNIVERSITY   OF   OXFORD 

LONDON,   EDINBURGH 

NEW   YORK   AND    TORONTO 


INTRODUCTORY    NOTES 

Notes  on  Transliteration 

Vowel-Sounds 

a  has  the  sound  of  a  in  'woman.' 
a  has  the  sound  of  a  in  'father.' 

e  has  the  vowel-sound  in  'grey.' 

i  has  the  sound  of/  in  'pin.' 

I  has  the  sound  of  i  in  '  police.' 

o  has  the  sound  of  o  in  '  bone." 

u  has  the  sound  of  ;/  in  '  bull.' 

ti  has  the  sound  of  u  in  '  flute.' 

ai  has  the  vowel-sound  in  '  mine.' 

au  has  the  vowel-sound  in  '  house.' 

It  should  be  stated  that  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  distinguish 
between  the  long  and  short  sounds  of  e  and  o  in  the  Dravidian 
languages,  which  possess  the  vowel-sounds  in  '  bet '  and  '  hot '  in 
addition  to  those  given  above.  Nor  has  it  been  thought  necessary 
to  mark  vowels  as  long  in  cases  where  mistakes  in  pronunciation 
were  not  likely  to  be  made. 

Cofisonatits 

Most  Indian  languages  have  different  forms  for  a  number  of  con- 
sonants, such  as  d,  t,  r,  &c,  marked  in  scientific  works  by  the  use 
of  dots  or  italics.  As  the  European  ear  distinguishes  these  with 
difficulty  in  ordinary  pronunciation,  it  has  been  considered  undesir- 
able to  embarrass  the  reader  with  them  ;  and  only  two  notes  are 
required.  In  the  first  place,  the  Arabic  k,  a  strong  guttural,  has 
been  represented  by  k  instead  of^,  which  is  often  used.  Secondly, 
it  should  be  remarked  that  aspirated  consonants  are  common  ;  and, 
in  particular,  dh  and  th  (except  in  Burma)  never  have  the  sound  of 
th  in  '  this'  or  'thin,'  but  should  be  pronounced  as  in  '  woodhouse  ' 
and  '  boathook,' 


iv  INTRODUCTORY  NOTES 

Burmese    Words 

Burmese  and  some  of  the  languages  on  the  frontier  of  China  have 
the  following  special  sounds  : — 

aw  has  the  vowel-sound  in  '  law.' 
6  and  ii  are  pronounced  as  in  German, 
gy  is  pronounced  almost  like  j  in  '  jewel.' 
ky  is  pronounced  almost  like  ch  in  '  church.' 
th  is  pronounced  in  some  cases  as  in  '  this,'  in  some  cases  as  in 

«  thin.' 
w  after  a  consonant  has  the  force  of  uw.     Thus,  ywa  and  pwe 
are  disyllables,  pronounced  as  if  written  yiava  and  puwe. 

It  should  also  be  noted  that,  whereas  in  Indian  words  the  accent 
or  stress  is  distributed  almost  equally  on  each  syllable,  in  Burmese 
there  is  a  tendency  to  throw  special  stress  on  the  last  syllable. 

General 
The  names  of  some  places — e.g.  Calcutta,  Bombay,  Lucknow, 
(  "awnpore — have  obtained  a  popular  fixity  of  spelling,  while  special 
forms  have  been  officially  prescribed  for  others.  Names  of  persons 
are  often  spelt  and  pronounced  differently  in  different  parts  of  India  ; 
but  the  variations  have  been  made  as  few  as  possible  by  assimilating 
forms  almost  alike,  especially  where  a  particular  spelling  has  been 
generally  adopted  in  English  books. 

Notes  on  Money,  Prices,  Weights  and  Measures 

As  the  currency  of  India  is  based  upon  the  rupee,  all  statements 
with  regard  to  money  throughout  the  Gazetteer  have  necessarily  been 
expressed  in  rupees,  nor  has  it  been  found  possible  to  add  generally 
a  conversion  into  sterling.  Down  to  about  1873  the  gold  value  of 
the  rupee  (containing  165  grains  of  pure  silver)  was  approximately 
equal  to  2S.,  or  one-tenth  of  a  £  ;  and  for  that  period  it  is  easy  to 
convert  rupees  into  sterling  by  striking  off  the  final  cipher  (Rs.  1,000 
=  £100).  But  after  1873,  owing  to  the  depreciation  of  silver  as 
compared  with  gold  throughout  the  world,  there  came  a  serious  and 
progressive  fall  in  the  exchange,  until  at  one  time  the  gold  value  of 
the  rupee  dropped  as  low  as  is.  In  order  to  provide  a  remedy  for 
the  heavy  loss  caused  to  the  Government  of  India  in  respect  of  its 
gold  payments  to  be  made  in  England,  and  also  to  relieve  foreign 
trade  and  finance  from  the  inconvenience  due  to  constant  and 
unforeseen  fluctuations  in  exchange,  it  was  resolved  in  1893  to  close 
the  mints  to  the  free  coinage  of  silver,  and  thus  force  up  the  value  of 
the  rupee  by  restricting  the  circulation.     The  intention  was  to  raise 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTES  v 

the  exchange  value  of  the  rupee  to  is.  $d.,  and  then  introduce  a  gold 
standard  (though  not  necessarily  a  gold  currency)  at  the  rate  of  Rs.  J  5 
=  £1.  This  policy  has  been  completely  successful.  From  1899  on- 
wards the  value  of  the  rupee  has  been  maintained,  with  insignificant 
fluctuations,  at  the  proposed  rate  of  is.  4^. ;  and  consequently  since 
that  date  three  rupees  have  been  equivalent  to  two  rupees  before  1873. 
For  the  intermediate  period,  between  1873  and  1899,  it  is  manifestly 
impossible  to  adopt  any  fixed  sterling  value  for  a  constantly  changing 
rupee.  But  since  1899,  if  it  is  desired  to  convert  rupees  into  sterling, 
not  only  must  the  final  cipher  be  struck  off  (as  before  1873),  but 
also  one-third  must  be  subtracted  from  the  result.  Thus  Rs.  1,000 
=  £100  —  ^  =  (about)  £67. 

Another  matter  in  connexion  with  the  expression  of  money  state- 
ments in  terms  of  rupees  requires  to  be  explained.  The  method  of 
numerical  notation  in  India  differs  from  that  which  prevails  through- 
out Europe.  Large  numbers  are  not  punctuated  in  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands and  millions,  but  in  lakhs  and  crores.  A  lakh  is  one  hundred 
thousand  (written  out  as  r, 00,000),  and  a  crore  is  one  hundred  lakhs 
or  ten  millions  (written  out  as  1,00,00,000).  Consequently,  accord- 
ing to  the  exchange  value  of  the  rupee,  a  lakh  of  rupees  (Rs.  1,00,000) 
may  be  read  as  the  equivalent  of  £10,000  before  1873,  and  as  the 
equivalent  of  (about)  £6,667  after  1899  ;  while  a  crore  of  rupees 
(Rs.  1,00,00,000)  may  similarly  be  read  as  the  equivalent  of 
£1,000,000  before  1873,  and  as  the  equivalent  of  (about)  £666,667 
after  1899. 

Finally,  it  should  be  mentioned  that  the  rupee  is  divided  into 
16  annas,  a  fraction  commonly  used  for  many  purposes  by  both 
natives  and  Europeans.  The  anna  was  formerly  reckoned  as  \\d.  : 
it  may  now  be  considered  as  exactly  corresponding  to  id.  The 
anna  is  again  subdivided  into  12  pies. 

The  various  systems  of  weights  used  in  India  combine  uniformity 
of  scale  with  immense  variations  in  the  weight  of  units.  The  scale 
used  generally  throughout  Northern  India,  and  less  commonly  in 
Madras  and  Bombay/  may  be  thus  expressed  :  one  maund  =  40  seers ; 
one  seer  =16  chittaks  or  80  tolas.  The  actual  weight  of  a  seer 
varies  greatly  from  District  to  District,  and  even  from  village  to 
village  ;  but  in  the  standard  system  the  tola  is  180  grains  Troy 
(the  exact  weight  of  the  rupee),  and  the  seer  thus  weighs  2-057  lb., 
and  the  maund  82-28  lb.  This  standard  is  used  in  official  reports 
and  throughout  the  Gazetteer. 

For  calculating  retail  prices,  the  universal  custom  in  India  is  to 
express  them  in  terms  of  seers  to  the  rupee.  Thus,  when  prices 
change,  what  varies  is  not  the  amount  of  money  to  be  paid  for  the 


vi  INTRODUCTORY  NOTES 

same -quantity,  but  the  quantity  to  be  obtained  for  the  same  amount 
of  money.  In  other  words,  prices  in  India  are  quantity  prices,  not 
money  prices.  When  the  figure  of  quantity  goes  up,  this  of  course 
means  that  the  price  has  gone  down,  which  is  at  first  sight  perplexing 
to  an  English  reader.  It  may,  however,  be  mentioned  that  quantity 
prices  are  not  altogether  unknown  in  England,  especially  at  small 
shops,  where  pennyworths  of  many  groceries  can  be  bought.  Eggs, 
likewise,  are  commonly  sold  at  a  varying  number  for  the  shilling. 
If  it  be  desired  to  convert  quantity  prices  from  Indian  into  English 
denominations  without  having  recourse  to  money  prices  (which  would 
often  be  misleading),  the  following  scale  may  be  adopted  — based 
upon  the  assumptions  that  a  seer  is  exactly  2  lb.,  and  that  the  value 
of  the  rupee  remains  constant  at  is.  $d. :  1  seer  per  rupee  =  (about) 
3  lb.  for  25. ;  2  seers  per  rupee  =  (about)  6  lb.  for  2s. ;  and  so  on. 

The  name  of  the  unit  for  square  measurement  in  India  generally 
is  the  bigha,  which  varies  greatly  in  different  parts  of  the  country. 
But  areas  have  always  been  expressed  throughout  the  Gazetteer  either 
in  square  miles  or  in  acres. 


I MPERIAL    GAZETTEER 
OF    INDIA 


VOLUME   XVII 

Mahbubabad  (or  Mankota). —  Taluk  in  Warangal  District,  Hyder- 
abad State,  with  an  area  of  778  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901, 
including  jdgirs,  was  98,552,  compared  with  80,071  in  1891.  Some 
villages  were  transferred  from  the  Warangal  taluk  in  1905.  The  taluk 
now  contains  158  villages,  of  which  28  are  jagir,  and  Mahbubabad 
(population,  2,769)  is  the  head-quarters.  The  land  revenue  in  1901 
was  2 -3  lakhs.  Rice  is  largely  grown  and  irrigated  from  tanks.  The. 
Nizam's  Guaranteed  State  Railway  passes  through  the  taluk  from 
north-west  to  east.     There  are  3,817  Koyas  (a  jungle  tribe). 

Mahbubnagar  District  (formerly  called  Nagar  Karnul). — District 
in  the  Medak-Gulshanabad  Division,  Hyderabad  State,  lying  between 
1 6°  2'  and  170  14'  N.  and  77°  12'  and  790  10'  E.,  with  a  total  area 
of  6,543  square  miles,  of  which  3,586  square  miles  are  kkdlsa,  the 
rest  being  jagir1.  It  is  separated  from  the  Madras  Districts  of  Kurnool 
and  Guntur  by  the  Kistna  river,  which  bounds  it  to  the  south  ;  on  the 
north  lie  the  Districts  of  Medak  and  Atraf-i-balda  ;  on  the  east,  Nal- 
gonda ;  on  the  north-west,  Gulbarga:  and  on  the  west,  Raichur.  In  the 
south-east  corner  a  range  of  hills  extends  from  the 


'6 


Phvsi  f*3  1 

north  to  the  south  of  the  Amrabad  taluk,  consisting  . 

'  &  aspects. 

of  flat-topped  hills,  rising  one  above  the  other,   the 
summits  forming  extensive  plateaux.      The  surface  of  the  District   is 
highest  in  the  north  and  west,  and  the  general  slope  is  from  north- 
west to  south-east. 

The  two  principal  rivers,  which  flow  along  the  westernmost  part  of 
the  District,  are  the  Kistna  and  the  Bhima.  The  Dindi,  which  rises 
in  the  Jedcherla  taluk,  passes  through  the  Kalvakurti  and  Amrabad 
taluks,  and  falls  into  the  Kistna  about  18  miles  east  of  Chandragiri. 

The  District  is  occupied  by  Archaean  gneiss,  except  along  the  banks  of 
the  Kistna,  where  the  rocks  belong  to  the  Cuddapah  and  Kurnool  series2. 

1  The  statistics  in  this  article  relate  to  the  District  as  it  stood  before  the  rearrange- 
ments made  in  1905,,  see  paragraph  on  Population. 
-  Memoirs,  Geological  Survey  of  India,  vol.  viii,  parts  i.and  wii. 


MAHBUBNAGAR   DISTRICT 

rhe  famous  Golconda  diamonds  were  formerly  obtained  from  the 
Cuddapahs  and  Kurnools,  particularly  the  basement-beds  of  the  latter. 

The  District  is  well  wooded,  having  a  large  forest  area.  The  timber 
trees  are  bijasal  [Pterocarpus  Marsupium),  nallamaddi  (Terminalia 
tomentosa),  eppa  (Hardwickia  binata),  ebony,  teak,  babul  (Acacia 
arabica),  mango,  and  tamarind.  The  scrubby  jungle  consists  of  brush- 
wood, tarvar  [Cassia  au/iculata),  and  other  plants  used  for  fuel. 

Antelope  and  spotted  deer  are  found  in  the  IbrahTmpatan,  Makhtal, 
and  Narayanpet  taluks;  tigcr>,  leopards,  and  bears  are  met  with  in 
the  wooded  hills  of  the  rest  of  the  District.  In  the  Amrabad  taluk, 
wild  hog,  nilgai,  sambar,  hyenas,  porcupines,  several  species  of 
monkeys,  large  red  squirrels,  and  wild  dogs  are  also  found.  Peafowl, 
jungle-fowl,  red  parrots  and  red  minds,  yellow  and  red  bulbuls  as  large 
as  pigeons,  and  many  other  rare  birds  are  also  met  with. 

Climatically  the  District  may  be  divided  into  three  portions.  The 
taluks  of  Narayanpet,  Makhtal,  and  Jedcherla  are  hot  and  dry,  but 
healthy  :  Mahbubnagar,  Koilkonda,  IbrahTmpatan,  and  Kalvakurti  arc 
hot  and  damp,  and  are  not  so  healthy  :  while  the  remaining  taluks  of 
Pargi,  Nagar  Karnul,  and  Amrabad  are  damp,  unhealthy,  and  malarious. 
The  annual  rainfall  for  the  twenty-one  years  ending  1901  averaged 
34  inches. 

Little    is    known    of   the    history    of   the    District.       The    Rajas    of 

Warangal  at  one  period  held  sway  over  it,  but  after  the  Muhammadan 

conquest  of  the  Deccan  it  came  into  the  possession 
History.  .    ?     _  .  ...  _       ,        ..       ,     .  l       _    ,    . 

of  the  Bahmani  kings.      On  the  dissolution  of  their 

power,  a  portion  of  it  was  annexed  by  the  Kutb  Shahis,  and  another 

portion  became    part  of  Bijapur.      In   1686,  when  Sikandar  Adil  Shah 

was  defeated  by  Aurangzeb,  Bijapur  with  its  dependencies  was  annexed 

to  the  empire  of  Delhi.      In  1706  prince  Kam  Bakhsh  was  appointed 

Siibahdar  of  Bijapur  and  Hyderabad  ;    and   on  tin-  foundation  of  the 

Hyderabad   State    early    in    the    eighteenth    century    the   District   was 

included    in    the    Nizam's    Dominions. 

The  fort  of  Koilkonda  was  built  by  Ibrahim  Kutb  Shah,  one  of  the 
( lolconda  kings,  and  contained  substantial  buildings  which  arc  now 
in  ruins.  In  the  Amrabad  taluk  is  a  fort,  now  in  ruins,  called  the 
I'ratap  Rudra  Kot,  which  could  shelter  a  large  garrison.  The  old 
ruined  city  of  Chandragupta,  32  miles  south  of  Amrabad  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Kistna,  was  a  very  populous  place  during  the  reign  ol 
I'ratap  Rudra,  Raja  of  Warangal.  Besides  these,  there  are  four  old 
temples,  one  of  which,  called  the  Maheswara  temple,  is  built  on  a  hill 
with  900  steps  from  the  foot  to  the  summit.  In  the  Nagar  Karnul 
tdhth  is  the  hill  fort  of  PANGAL,  a  mile  and  a  half  long  and  one  mile 
broad,  possessing  seven  walls  with  a  citadel  in  the  a  ntre. 

The  number  of  towns  and  villages  in  the  District,  including  /iigirs. 


POPULATION 


is  1,355.  The  population  at  each  Census  in  the  last  twenty  years  was  : 
( 1SS1)  547.694,  (1891)  674,649,  and  (1901)  7°5>7^5-  popuiation. 
The  towns  are  Narayanpet  and  Mahbubnagar. 
More  than  9 1  per  cent,  of  its  population  are  Hindus  and  over  8  per 
cent.  Musalmans.  About  S6  per  cent,  speak  Telugu,  6  per  cent.  Urdu, 
and  nearly  5  per  cent.  Kanarese.  The  following  table  gives  the  chief 
statistics  of  population  in  1901  : — 


Taluk- 

3 
x  i 

V 

< 
250 

Number  of 

5 

"5 

n 

rjj      Population  per 
w         square  mile. 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 

population  be- 
tween 1 89 1 
and  1901. 

Number  of 

persons  able  to 

read  and 

write. 

c 

0 
H 

1 

■si 

V 

> 

Mahbubnagar  . 

59 

45.604 

+      3-1 

Jedcherla 

234 

79 

38,901 

166 

+     o-S 

Ibrahlmpatan   . 

194 

43 

27>H3 

139 

-    3-3 

Kalvakurti 

t:/> 

7° 

41,069 

94 

+     4-3 

Amrabad 

679 

37 

16,794 

24 

+     6.5 

Nagar  Karnu]  . 

532 

'-1: 

67,990 

127 

+     5-4 

■    a 

> 

Makhtal  . 

447 

107 

64,208 

H3 

+       2-2 

a 

Narayanpet 
Koilkonda 

315 

384 

1 

72 
91 

66,579 
45>572 

211 
118 

+    13-9 

+     5-9 

0 

Pargi 

"5 

49 

21,511 

[87 

-  42-3 

Jagirs,  &c. 

District  total 

-'•957 
6,543 

... 

619 

270,294 
7°5>725 

91 
107 

+     5-i 

2 

1,353 

+     4r> 

23,688 

In  1905  the  Ibrahlmpatan  taluk  was  transferred  to  Medak  District, 
and  73  villages  from  Koilkonda,  Narayanpet,  and  Makhtal  were  made 
over  to  the  adjoining  taluks  of  Gulbarga  District.  Koilkonda  and 
Jedcherla  were  merged  in  adjoining  taluks,  and  Narayanpet  in  Makhtal. 
The  Pargi  and  Amrabad  sub-taluks  have  been  raised  to  the  status  of 
taluks.  The  District  in  its  present  form  thus  comprises  six  taluks  : 
Mahbubnagar,  Kalvakurti,  Amrabad,  Nagar  Karnul,  Makhtal,  and 
Pargi. 

The  most  numerous  caste  is  that  of  the  agricultural  Kapus, 
numbering  132,000,  or  about  19  per  cent,  of  the  total  population. 
Next  come  the  Chamars  or  leather-workers,  who  number  93,000,  or 
13  per  cent.  The  Brahmans  number  87,600,  or  over  12  per  cent. 
The  Dhangars  or  shepherds  follow  with  74,600,  or  11  per  cent.  The 
Mahars  (village  menials)  and  Komatis  (traders)  number  44,800  and 
21,000,  or  6  and  3  per  cent,  respectively.  The  Mahars  and  Chamars 
also  work  as  field  labourers.  The  population  directly  engaged  in 
agriculture  is  205,000,  or  29  per  cent,  of  the  total. 

There  is  an  American  Mission  at  Mahbubnagar  town,  which  has 
established  a  school  for  low-caste  children,  the  total  staff  and  pupils 
numbering  163.  The  number  of  Christians  in  the  District  in  190 1  was 
559,  of  whom  350  were  natives. 


4  MAHBUBNAGAR   DISTRICT 

The  northern  portion  of  the  District  is  situated  on  the  border  of  the 

trap   region,   the   remainder  being  granitic.       The   soils  of  the  Pargi 

taluk    and    parts    of    Ibrahimpatan,    Mahbubnagar, 

and    Jedcherla  are  composed    of  stiff    black   regar. 

Makhtal,    Narayanpet,    and    Nagar  Karntil,  ;is  well   as  the   remaining 

portions   of  the  above-mentioned  taluks,  consist  of  granitic  or  sandy 

soils,  known    as    niasab  and  chalka.     The  soils    of  Amrabad  are   of 

granitic    origin,    but    contain    a    large    admixture    of    organic    matter. 

Jowdr,  gram,  linseed,  and  other  rabi  crops  are   raised  on   the  regar 

lands,  while  rice,   sesamum,   castor,  and  other  kharif  or  rainy  season 

crops  are  grown  on  the  chalka  and  masab  soils. 

The  tenure  of  lands  is  mainly  ryotwdri.  The  area  cultivated  in 
1901  amounted  to  1.278  square  miles,  out  of  a  total  klidlsa  area  of 
3,586,  while  790  square  miles  were  cultivable  waste  and  fallows, 
1,363  forest,  and  155  were  not  available  for  cultivation. 

The  staple  food-crops  are  jowar  and  bctjra,  grown  on  48  and  i2-| 
per  cent,  of  the  total  area  cropped.  Rice,  lachhna,  savdn,  and  kodro 
are  nc.\t  in  importance,  the  areas  under  these  being  120,  87,  57,  and 
;-,2  square  miles  respectively.  Oilseeds  are  raised  on  116  square 
miles,  about  three-fourths  of  this  area  being  under  castor  alone. 

No  special  breed  of  cattle  is  characteristic  of  the  District  :  but 
the  Amrabad  taluk  is  noted  for  its  swift-trotting  bullocks,  which 
though  small  are  very  handsome.  These  are  largely  bred,  and  an 
extensive  trade  in  them  is  carried  on  with  other  parts  of  the  State, 
and  with  the  Madras  Presidency.  They  resemble  the  Mysore  breed. 
Ponies  are  found  everywhere,  but  are  of  an  inferior  class.  Sheep  and 
goats  are  largely  reared,  and  arc  sold  at  prices  varying  from  Rs.  1-8 
to  Rs.  3  per  head.  Extensive  pasture  lands  exist  in  the  taluks 
of  Pargi,  Koilkonda,  and  Amrabad  ;  the  grazing  lands  in  the  last  of 
these  are  said  to  comprise  nearly  three-fourths  of  the  total  area. 

The  irrigated  area  in  1901  was  162  square  miles.  The  principal 
channels  take  off  from  the  Nandipalli  Vagu  in  the  Narayanpet 
taluk,  from  the  Turikunda  Vagu  in  the  Mahbubnagar  taluk,  and  from 
the  Musi  river  in  the  Ibrahimpatan  taluk.  The  first  two  supply  23 
large  tanks,  and  the  third  was  constructed  at  a  cost  of  14  lakhs  to 
supply  the  Ibrahimpatan  tank,  which  irrigates  the  lands  of  13  villages. 
Besides  these,  there  are  505  large  tanks,  1,863  kuntas  or  smaller 
tanks,   and   9,615   wells   in  good   repair. 

MahbObnagar  District  has  several  large  tracts  of  finest,  especially  in 
the  Amrabad,  Pargi,  and  Koilkonda  taluks.  These  contain  protected 
and  'reserved'  forests,  the  trees  attaining  a  good  size.  The  princi- 
pal timbei  trees  an  teak,  ebony,  eppa  (Hardwickia  binata),  btjasal 
(Pteroearpus  Marsttpiuni),  nallamaddi  {Tertninalia  tomentosa),  and 
bamboos,    besides    mango,    tamarind,    and    babul    (Acacia    arabica). 


ADMINISTRATION  5 

Fuel  is  abundant.  Nagar  Karnul  and  Mahbubnagar  also  contain 
smaller  areas  of  forest.  The  '  reserved '  forests  cover  800  square 
miles,  and  the  protected  and  unprotected  forests  400  and  163  square 
miles  respectively. 

The  District  possesses  good  building  stone.  In  the  Pargi  taluk 
ironstone  is  smelted  to  a  small  extent.  In  the  Narayanpet,  Nagar 
Karnul,  Amrabad,  and  Mahbubnagar  taluks  carbonate  of  soda  and 
common  salt  are  obtained  by  lixiviating  saline  earth.  The  salt  pro- 
duced is  bitter,  owing  to  an  admixture  of  magnesium  sulphate.  Six 
miles  south  of  Farahabad,  a  bright  brick-red  laminated  limestone  is 
found,  similar  to  the  Shahabad  stone,  but  much  harder.  A  hard  stone 
resembling  emery,  found  in  Amrabad,  is  used  for  making  mortars. 

Coarse  cotton  cloth  of  every  description  is  woven  in  all  parts.    In  the 
Narayanpet  taluk,  silk  saris  and  dhotis,  with  gold  borders,  are  made 
for  export  to  Poona,  Sholapur,  Bombay,  and  Baroda. 
Ordinary  blankets  are  made  by  the  Dhangars ;  and  communications. 
leather  is  cured  in  a  crude  way  by  the  Chamars  for 
water-buckets.     A  coarse  sort  of  paper  used  to  be  largely  made  in  the 
Koilkonda  and  Mahbubnagar  taluks,  but  the  trade  has  died  out  owing 
to  the  cheapness  of  imported  paper. 

The  chief  exports  are  food-grains,  cotton,  and  castor-seed,  the  last 
two  being  sent  to  Bombay  and  the  grain  to  Hyderabad  city.  The 
imports  consist  of  cloth  and  chintzes  of  sorts,  gram,  wheat,  sugar,  salt, 
opium,  kerosene  oil,  brass  and  copper  vessels,  and  silver  and  gold. 

The  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway  passes  through  the  south -western 
portion  of  the  Makhtal  taluk,  with  one  station.  There  are  269  miles 
of  gravelled  roads,  of  which  207  miles  are  maintained  by  the  Public 
Works  department  and  62  by  the  local  boards.  Of  the  former,  one 
traverses  the  District  from  Hyderabad  to  Kurnool  in  British  territory 
112  miles  in  length.  A  branch  of  this,  63  miles  long,  called  the  Kistna 
road,  proceeds  via  Mahbubnagar  to  the  railway.  Two  other  roads, 
2 1  and  1 1  miles  long,  run  from  Narayanpet  to  the  Saidapur  station  and 
from  Mahbubnagar  to  Nawabpet.  The  local  board  roads  are :  Makhtal 
to  Narayanpet,  18  miles;  Mahbubnagar  to  Koilkonda,  ^  4  miles:  and 
Mahbubnagar  to  Nagar  Karnul,  30  miles. 

In  the  great  famine  of  1876-8  thousands  of  people  perished  in  this 
District.     Joivar   sold   at    3   seers  per  rupee.     The 
famines  of   1897   and    1900,  though   very  severe   in 
other  parts  of  the  State,  did  not  seriously  affect  Mahbubnagar.  and  the 
total  amount  spent  on  relief  was  only  Rs.  2,700. 

The  District  is  divided  into  four  subdivisions  :  one,  consisting  of  the 

taluks   of   Makhtal    and    Mahbubnagar,    is    under    a    .  ,     .   . 

,  „,.,   ,   ,.         .  ,  •  ■         ,       ,_,   ,     Administration. 

•Second  lalukdar;  the  second,  comprising  the  taluks 

of  Nagar  Karnul   and  Amrabad,  is   under  another  Second  Talukdar ; 


*  MAHBUBNAGAR    DISTRICT 

while  the  third,  consisting  of  the  taluks  of  Kalvakurti  and  Pargi,  is 
under  a  Third  Talukdar.  Another  Third  Talukd?r  acts  as  assistant 
i"  the  First  Talukdar,  who  exercises  a  general  supervision  over  the 
work  of  all  his  subordinates.     Each  taluk  is  under  a  falisllddr. 

The  District  civil  court  is  presided  over  by  a  Judge,  styled  the 
Xiizim-i-Drwthii,  while  the  tahsildars  hold  subordinate  civil  courts. 
The  First  Talukdar  is  the  chief  magistrate  of  the  District,  and  the 
Nazim-i-Dlivani  or  Civil  Judge  is  also  a  joint-magistrate,  who  exercises 
magisterial  powers  during  the  absence  of  the  First  Talukdar  from  head- 
quarters.  The  Second  and  Third  Talukdars  and  the  tahsildars  exercise 
magisterial  powers  of  the  second  and  third  class.  Serious  crime  is  not 
heavy,  except  in  adverse  seasons,  when  dacoities  and  cattle-thefts  increase. 

Hardly  anything  is  known  about  the  revenue  history  of  the  District. 
Some  of  the  taluks  were  resumed  from  time  to  time  from  Arab  and 
Pathan  jemadars,  who  had  held  them  in  lieu  of  payment  for  troops. 
The  old  system  of  farming  taluks  was  formerly  in  force,  and  the  revenue 
farmers  received  two  annas  in  the  rupee  for  collection.  But  this  system 
was  discontinued  in  t866,  on  the  introduction  of  District  administration, 
when  the  holdings  of  the  cultivators  were  roughly  measured  and  a  fair 
revenue  was  fixed.  Though  the  whole  of  the  District  had  been  sur- 
veyed some  years  previously,  only  two  taluks  (Mahbubnagar  and 
Narayanpet)  were  settled  in  1900,  and  the  remaining  taluks  in  1903. 
The  settlement  raised  the  land  revenue  by  2-6  lakhs,  or  21  per  cent. 
(from  r3-2  lakhs  to  15-8  lakhs),  and  the  area  of  the  holdings  was  found 
to  be  981,029  acres,  compared  with  455,461  acres  shown  in  the  old 
accounts,  a  difference  of  115  per  cent.  The  average  assessment  on 
•dry'  land  is  R.  1  (maximum  Rs.  2-2,  minimum  three  annas),  and  on 
'wet'  land  Rs.  7  (maximum  Rs.  rS-12,  minimum  Rs.  3).  The  'wet' 
lands  include  baghdt  or  garden  lands. 

The  land  revenue  and  the  total  revenue  of  the  District  in  recent 
years  are  shown  below,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1881. 

1891. 

igor. 

1903. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

8,14 
17,64 

10,77           9>81 
20,93          17,26 

11,3' 
19,96 

Owing  to  the  changes  in  area  made  in  1905,  the  revenue  demand  is 
now  about  8-3  lakhs. 

Local  boards  were  established  in  1895,  a  year  a^ter  ^ie  completion 
of  the  survey.  The  District  board  at  Mahbubnagar  supervises  the 
working  of  the  taluk  boards.  Municipal  establishments  are  maintained 
.a  Mahbubnagar  and  Narayanpet.  The  total  income  derived  from  the 
one  anna  cess  in  1901  amounted  to  Rs.  34,000;  and  the  expenditure 
011  municipal  and  loeal  works  and  roads  was  Rs.  45,000. 


MAHE  7 

The  First  Talukdar  is  the  head  of  the  District  police,  with  the 
Superintendent  (Mohtamim)  as  his  executive  deputy.  Under  him  are 
9  inspectors,  128  subordinate  officers,  754  constables,  and  25  mounted 
police,  distributed  among  38  thanas  and  61  outposts.  The  District  jail 
at  Mahbubnagar  has  accommodation  for  250  prisoners,  but  those  whose 
terms  exceed  six  months  are  transferred  to  the  Central  jail  at  Nizamabad. 

The  District  occupies  a  comparatively  high  position  as  regards  the 
literacy  of  its  population,  of  whom  33  per  cent.  (5-9  males  and  0-65 
females)  were  able  to  read  and  write  in  1901.  The  total  number  of 
pupils  under  instruction  in  1881,  1891,  1901,  and  1903  was  619,  3,093, 
3,292,  and  3,208  respectively.  In  1903  there  were  46  primary  and  3 
middle  schools,  with  390  girls  under  instruction.  A  small  school  is 
maintained  at  Makhtal  for  the  depressed  castes.  The  total  amount 
spent  on  education  in  1901  was  Rs.  15,300,  of  which  Rs.  12,200  was 
contributed  by  the  State  and  the  rest  by  the  local  boards.  The  total 
fee  receipts  amounted  to  Rs.  333. 

In  1 90 1  there  were  7  dispensaries,  with  accommodation  for  22 
in-patients.  The  total  number  of  patients  treated  during  the  year  was 
26,912,  of  whom  116  were  in-patients  :  and  the  number  of  operations 
performed  was  606.     The  expenditure  was  Rs.  20,200. 

To  every  dispensary  a  vaccinator  is  attached,  but  the  number  ot 
persons  vaccinated  during  1901  was  only  2,113,  or  299  Per  1,000  of 
population. 

Mahbubnagar  Taluk. —  Taluk  in  Mahbubnagar  District,  Hyder- 
abad State,  with  an  area  of  339  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901 
was  54,563,  including  ''agirs,  compared  with  52,88s  in  1891.  The 
taluk  contains  one  town,  Mahbubnagar  (population,  7,605),  the  Dis- 
trict and  taluk  head-quarters;  and  78  villages,  of  which  19  are  jagir. 
The  land  revenue  in  190 1  was  Rs.  68,000.  In  1905  the  taluk 
was  increased  by  transfers  from  Jedcherla  and  Koilkonda  taluks.  It 
now  contains  132  khalsa  villages. 

Mahbubnagar  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  District  and  taluk  of 
the  same  name,  Hyderabad  State,  situated  in  i6c  44'  N.  and  770  59'  E. 
Population  (1901),  7,605.  It  contains  the  offices  of  the  First  Talukdar, 
the  District  and  Irrigation  Engineers,  the  Police  Superintendent,  as 
well  as  the  civil  court,  mission  school  and  other  schools,  a  District  jail, 
a  post  office,  and  a  dispensary.     It  was  formerly  called  Palmur. 

Mahe. — French  Settlement  within  the  limits  of  Malabar  District, 
Madras  Presidency,  situated  in  nc  43'  N.  and  75°  2>Z  E.,  to  the  south 
of  the  mouth  of  the  river  Mahe,  about  4  miles  south  of  Tellicherry. 
Area,  26  square  miles;  population  (1901),  10,298.  The  history  of 
Mahe  resembles  in  its  essentials  that  of  the  other  French  Possessions. 
and  it  is  now  a  decaying  place.  Most  of  its  chief  buildings  are  pictur- 
esquely situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river  close  to  its  mouth.     The  site 


8  MAHE 

is  hilly  and  covered  with  a  dense  mass  of  coco-nut  palms,  and  it  is 
noted  for  the  fertility  of  its  soil  and  the  salubrity  of  its  climate.  The 
Settlement  is  in  charge  of  a  chef  de  service  subordinate  to  the  Governor 
at  Pondicherry.  The  place  contains  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  three 
boys'  schools,  one  girls'  school,  and  a  British  post  office.  A  long 
wooden  bridge  maintained  by  the  Malabar  District  board  gives  access 
to  British  territory  on  the  right  bank.  The  railway  line  from  Calicut 
to  Cannanore  passes  close  to  Mahe. 

Maheji  (or  Chinchkhed). — Village  in  the  Pachora  taluka  of  East 
Khandesh  District,  Bombay,  situated  in  200  48'  N.  and  750  24'  E.,  on 
the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway,  240  miles  north-east  of  Bombay. 
Population  (1901),  1,591.  A  municipality  was  established  in  1871,  but 
abolished  in  1903.  The  village  contains  a  poorly  attended  boys' 
school.  The  chief  Hindu  fair  of  Khandesh  is  held  here  annually  from 
January  to  March.  The  fair  is  held  in  honour  of  Maheji,  a  woman  of 
the  agricultural  class  who  became  an  ascetic  in  the  seventeenth  century. 
So  great  was  her  sanctity  that  vows  were  paid  to  her  during  her  lifetime. 
After  a  twelve  years'  stay  in  the  hamlet  of  Chinchkhed  close  by  the  site 
of  the  fair,  Maheji  buried  herself  alive.  The  fair  has  lately  lost  much 
of  its  importance. 

Mahendragiri.  Peak  of  the  Eastern  Ghats  in  Ganjam  District, 
Madras,  situated  in  180  58'  N.  and  840  24'  E.,  4,923  feet  above  sea- 
level,  being  the  second  highest  point  in  the  District.  This  was  once 
proposed  as  a  site  for  a  sanitarium  for  Calcutta,  but  its  steepness  and 
the  want  of  sufficient  water  rendered  it  unsuitable.  A  bungalow  near 
the  summit  commands  a  magnificent  view,  as  the  hill  is  only  16  miles 
from  the  sea  and  stands  in  the  highest  part  of  this  section  of  the 
Eastern  Ghats.  Two  streams  called  the  Mahendratanaya  ('children  of 
Mahendra')  rise  in  the  peak.  One  flows  southward  into  the  Parlakimedi 
zatm/iddri  and  joins  the  Vamsadhara,  while  the  other  flows  through  the 
Budarasingi  and  Mandasa  estates  and  enters  the  sea  near  Baruva.  On 
the  top  of  Mahendragiri  are  four  temples,  built  of  enormous  blocks  of 
stone,  one  of  which  has  been  badly  shattered  by  lightning.  They 
contain  inscriptions  in  Tamil  and  Sanskrit,  which  show  that  the  Choi. a 
king  Rajendra  set  up  a  pillar  of  victory  in  this  wild  spot  to  com- 
memorate his  defeat  of  his  brother-in-law  Yimaladitya  (a.D.  1015-22). 
Below  the  Sanskrit  version  is  cut  a  tiger,  the  crest  of  the  Cholas, 
and  in  front  of  it  two  fishes,  the  emblem  of  their  vassal  the  Paxdva 
kin-. 

Maheshrekha.     Subdivision    of    Howrah    District,    Bengal.       See 

Ui  LHAKIA. 

Maheshwar.— Town  in  the  Nimar  district  of  Indore  State,  Central 
India,  situated  in  220  11'  \.  and  750  36'  E.,  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Narbadi   river.      Population  (1901),  7,042.      It  is  usually  called  Choli- 


MAHESHWAR  9 

Maheshwar,  from  the  town  of  Choli,  7  miles  north  of  it.  Maheshwar 
occupies  a  most  picturesque  position  on  the  edge  of  the  river.  Broad 
ghats  sweep  upwards  towards  the  fort  and  the  numerous  temples 
which  stud  the  shore,  while  behind  them  towers  the  lofty  palace 
of  Ahalya  Bai,  the  famous  princess  of  the  house  of  Holkar,  temples, 
ghats,  and  palaces  being  reflected  in  the  wide  stretch  of  deep  quiet 
water  at  their  feet. 

Maheshwar  is  the  Mahishmati  or  Mahissati  of  early  days,  the  name 
being  derived  from  the  prevalence  of  buffaloes  (mahisha).  It  is  con- 
nected traditionally  with  the  ubiquitous  Pandava  brothers,  and  is  men- 
tioned in  the  Ramayana  and  Mahabharata,  while  the  Puranas  refer  to 
Mahishas  and  Mahishakas,  the  people  of  Mahishmati.  In  Buddhist 
literature  Mahishmati  or  Mahissati  is  mentioned  as  one  of  the  regular 
stages  on  the  route  from  Paithana  (Paithan)  in  the  Deccan  to  Sravasti  ; 
these  stages  being  Mahissati,  Ujjain,  Gonaddha,  Bhllsa,  Kausambhl, 
and  Saketa.  Cunningham  has  identified  the  Mahishmati  or  Maheshwa- 
pura  of  Hiuen  Tsiang  with  Mandla  in  the  Central  Provinces ;  but  the 
Chinese  pilgrim  states  that  he  went  from  Jijhoti  or  Bundelkhand  north 
or  north-east  to  Maheshwapura,  which  is  a  wrong  bearing  for  either 
Mandla  or  Maheshwar,  and  may  be  a  misstatement  for  south-west. 
Numerous  places  which  the  Mahishmati  Mahatmya  enjoins  pilgrims 
to  visit  can  be  identified  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  earliest  historical  connexion,  however,  is  with  the  Haihaya  chiefs, 
the  ancestors  of  the  Kalachuris  of  Chedi,  who,  from  the  ninth  to  the 
twelfth  century,  held  much  of  the  eastern  part  of  Central  India  (see 
Baghelkhand).  Their  reputed  ancestor,  Kartyavlryarjuna,  is  sup- 
posed to  have  lived  here.  The  Haihayas  were  subdued  in  the  seventh 
century  by  Vinayaditya,  the  Western  Chalukya  king,  and  Mahishmati 
was  incorporated  in  his  kingdom.  The  Haihaya  chiefs  then  served  as 
governors  under  the  Chalukyas,  and  are  always  designated  as  hereditary 
'  lord  of  Mahishmati,  the  best  of  towns.'  On  the  fall  of  Malwa  to  the 
Paramaras  in  the  ninth  century,  Maheshwar  seems  at  first  to  have  been 
one  of  their  principal  cities.  It  lost  its  importance  later  on,  and  during 
the  time  of  the  Muhammadan  kings  of  Malwa  was  regarded  merely  as 
a  frontier  post  on  the  fords  of  the  Narbada.  In  1422  it  was  captured 
by  Ahmad  I  of  Gujarat  from  Hoshang  Shah  of  Malwa.  Under  Akbar 
it  was  the  head-quarters  of  the  Choli-Maheshwar  mahal  of  the  Mandu 
sarkar  in  the  Siibah  of  Malwa,  Choli  being  the  civil  administrative 
head-quarters  and  Maheshwar  the  military  post. 

About  1730  it  passed  into  the  possession  of  Malhar  Rao  Holkar,  but 
did  not  become  a  place  of  importance  until  1767,  when  Ahalya  Bai,  on 
the  death  of  Malhar  Rao,  assumed  the  reins  of  government  and  selected 
Maheshwar  as  her  capital.  Under  her  auspices  it  rapidly  became  a 
place  of  the  first   importance,  politically  and  commercial!),  while  its 


ro  MAHESHWAR 

appearance  was  improved  by  the  erection  of  numerous  temples  and 
palaces.  Tukojl  Rao,  who  succeeded  in  1795,  maintained  Maheshwar 
as  the  capital,  but  during  the  confusion  which  followed  his  death  in 
1797  its  prosperity  rapidly  declined.  In  1798  Jaswant  Rao  Holkar 
plundered  the  treasury,  and  during  his  stay  here  lost  his  eye  by  the 
bursting  of  his  matchlock  while  sitting  on  the  bank  of  the  Narbada 
amusing  himself  with  firing  at  a  lighted  torch  floating  on  the  river. 
Maheshwar  continued  to  decline  in  importance,  as  Jaswant  Rao  on  his 
accession  to  power  resided  chiefly  at  Rampura  and  Bhanpura  ;  and, 
after  his  death  in  1  Si  1  and  the  Treaty  of  Mandasor  in  1818,  Indore 
finally  became  the  real  as  well  as  the  nominal  capital.  From  1819  to 
1834  Harl  Rao  Holkar  was  confined  in  the  fort.  Malcolm  states  that 
in  1820  the  town  still  had  3,500  houses,  which  would  give  a  popu- 
lation of  about  17,000  persons. 

There  are  many  buildings  of  interest,  though  none  of  any  great  age. 
The  fort,  as  it  exists  at  present,  is  of  Muhammadan  foundation,  but  an 
older  structure  must  have  stood  there  in  Hindu  days.  Some  mosques 
with  Muhammadan  records,  dated  in  1563,  1682,  and  1712,  stand  in  it. 
Among  the  numerous  temples  and  shrines,  the  most  important  is  the 
cenotaph  of  Ahalya  Bai.  A  fine  flight  of  steps  leads  up  from  the  river 
to  the  richly  carved  shrine,  which  contains  a  lingam  with  a  life-size 
statue  of  Ahalya  Bai  behind  it.  An  inscription  records  that  this  shrin. 
and  ghat  to  the  memory  of  Ahalya  Bai,  who  resembled  the  Ahalya  of 
ancient  days  (i.e.  the  wife  of  Gautama  Rishi),  and  Tukojl,  who  is 
designated  the  great  and  generous  subahdar,  were  commenced  by 
Jaswant  Rao  Holkar  in  1799  and  completed  in  1833  by  Krishna  Bai 
his  wife.  Other  notable  buildings  are  the  shrine  of  Yithoba  or  ItojT, 
Jaswant  Rao's  brother,  and  the  palace  with  the  family  gods  of  the 
Holkars. 

Maheshwar  is  famous  for  the  manufacture  of  a  .special  kind  ol 
coloured  saris  and  silk-bordered  dhotis,  which  are  exported  in  some 
quantity.     It  contains  a  school,  a  hospital,  and  a  State  post  office. 

Mahespur. — Town  in  the  Bangaon  subdivision  of  Jessore  District, 
Bengal,  situated  in  230  21'  N.  and  88°  56'  E.,  on  the  Kabadak  river. 
Population  (1901),  4,180.  Mahespur  was  constituted  a  municipality 
in  1869.  The  income  during  the  decade  ending  190 1-2  averaged 
Ks.  3,600,  and  the  expenditure  Rs.  2,700.  In  1903-4  the  income 
was  .v4&°'  mainly  from  a  tax  on  persons  (or  property  tax)  ;  and  the 
rxpenditure  was  Rs.  2,600. 

Mahi  (the  Mophh  of  Ptolemy  and  Mais  of  the  Periplus).     River  of 
Western  India,  with  a  course  of  from  300  to  350  miles  and  a  drain., 
area  estimated  at  from   15,000  to  17,000  square  miles.      It  rises  in  the 
Amjhera  distrii  1    of   the   Gwalior   State,    1,850   feet   above   sea-level  j 
52'  X.  and  75'  5'  E.),  and  flows  for  about  100  miles  through  the 


mahi  i, 

south- western  corner  of  the  Central  India  Agency,  at  first  north,  next 
west,  and  lastly  north-west,  passing  through  the  States  of  Gwalior,  Dhar, 
Jhabua,  Ratlam,  and  Sailana.  It  then  enters  Rajputana  and  flows  in 
a  northerly  direction  with  a  somewhat  tortuous  course,  intersecting  the 
eastern  half  of  Banswara  State,  till  it  reaches  the  Udaipur  frontier,  where 
it  is  soon  turned  by  the  Mewar  hills  to  the  south-west,  and  for  the  rest 
of  its  course  in  Rajputana  it  forms  the  boundary  between  the  States  of 
Dungarpur  and  Banswara.  It  now  passes  on  into  Gujarat,  and  during 
the  first  part  of  its  course  there  flows  through  the  lands  of  the  Mahi 
Kantha  and  Rewa  Kantha  States.  It  then  enters  British  territory,  and 
separates  the  Bombay  District  of  Kaira  on  the  right  from  the  Panch 
Mahals  and  Baroda  on  the  left.  Farther  to  the  west,  and  for  the  rest 
of  its  course,  its  right  bank  forms  the  southern  boundary  of  the  State  of 
Cambay,  and  its  left  the  northern  boundary  of  Broach  District.  Near 
Bungra.  too  miles  from  its  source,  the  Mahi  is  crossed  by  the  old 
Baroda-Nimach  road:  and  here  the  bed  is  400  yards  wide,  with  a  stream 
of  roo  yards  and  a  depth  of  one  foot.  The  Kaira  section  of  the  river 
is  about  100  miles  in  length,  the  last  45  miles  being  tidal  water.  The 
limit  of  the  tidal  flow  is  Verakhandi,  where  the  stream  is  120  yards 
across  and  the  average  depth  18  inches.  About  30  miles  nearer  the  sea, 
close  to  the  village  of  Dehvan,  the  river  enters  Broach  District  from 
the  east,  and  forms  an  estuary.  The  distance  across  its  mouth,  from 
Cambay  to  Kavi,  is  5  miles.  The  Mahi  is  crossed  by  the  Bombay, 
Baroda,  and  Central  India  Railway  at  YVasad,  and  by  the  Godhra-Ratlam 
Railway  at  Pali.  During  flood  time,  at  spring-tides,  a  bore  is  formed 
at  the  estuary,  and  a  wall-like  line  of  foam-topped  water  rushes  up  for 
20  miles,  to  break  on  the  Dehvan  sands. 

The  bed  of  the  Mahi  lies  so  much  below  the  level  of  the  land  on 
either  side  of  its  banks  that  its  waters  cannot  readily  be  made  use  of 
for  irrigation.  In  fair  weather  the  river  is  fordable  at  many  places  in 
the  Bombay  Presidency — at  Dehvan,  Gajna,  Khanpur,  and  Umeta,  for 
instance — and  always  in  its  upper  course  through  Rajputana,  except  in 
the  rainy  season,  when  its  waters  rise  to  a  great  height. 

According  to  legend,  the  Mahi  is  the  daughter  of  the  earth  and  of 
the  sweat  that  ran  from  the  body  of  Indradyumna,  king  of  Ujjain. 
Another  legend  explains  the  name  thus.  A  young  Gujar  woman  was 
churning  curds  one  day.  An  importunate  lover,  of  whom  she  had  tried 
to  rid  herself,  but  who  would  not  be  denied,  found  her  thus  engaged, 
and  his  attentions  becoming  unbearable,  the  girl  threw  herself  into  the 
pot.  She  was  at  once  turned  into  water,  and  a  clear  stream  flowed 
from  the  jar  and,  wandering  down  the  hill-side,  formed  the  Mahi 
or  '  curd '  river.  A  more  probable  derivation,  however,  is  from  the 
name  of  the  lake  whence  it  springs.  This  is  often  called  the  Mau  or 
Mahu,  as  well  as  the  Menda.     It  is  regarded  by  the  Bhlls  and  the 

VOL.  XVII.  b 


12  MAHI 

Kolis  a:-  their  mother,  and  the  latter  make  pilgrimages  to  four  places  on 
its  waters— Mingradj  Kazilpur,  Angarh,  and  Yaspur.  The  height  of 
its  banks  and  the  fierceness  of  its  floods  ;  the  deep  ravines  through 
which  the  traveller  has  to  pass  on  his  way  to  the  river  ;  and  perhaps, 
above  all,  the  bad  name  of  the  tribes  who  dwell  about  it,  explain 
th<=  proverb  :   '  When  the  Main  is  crossed,  there  is  comfort.' 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  this  river  has  given  rise  to  the  terms 
mehwds,  a  'hill  stronghold,'  and  mehwdsi,  a  'turbulent  or  thieving 
person."  The  word  was  MahfvasT,  'a  dweller  on  the  Mahi,'  and  in 
Mughal  times  was  imported  into  Delhi  by  the  army,  and  is  used  by 
Muhammadan  writers  as  a  general  term  to  denote  hill  chiefs,  and  those 
living  in  mountain  fastnesses.  A  celebrated  temple  dedicated  to 
Mahadeo  at  Baneshar  (Rajputana)  stands  at  the  spot  where  the  Som 
joins  the  Mahi,  and  an  important  and  largely  attended  fair  is  held 
here  yearly. 

Mahidpur. — Zila  and  town  in  Indore  State,  Central  India.  See 
Mehidptjr. 

Mahi  Kantha,  The  (or  'Banks  of  trie  Mahi').  Group  of  States 
forming  a  Political  Agency  under  the  Government  of  Bombay,  lying 
between  if  14'  and  24°  28'  N.  and  72°  40'  and  74°  5'  E.,  with  a  total 
area  of  3.125  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north-east  by  the 
Rajputana  States  of  Udaipur  and  Dungarpur ;  on  the  south-east  by 
Rewa  Kantha  ;  on  the  south  by  the  British  District  of  Kaira  ;  and  on 
the  west  by  the  State  of  Baroda,  Ahmadabad  District,  and  the  country 
under  the  Palanpur  Agency.  The  Mahi  Kantha  territory  is  subject  to 
a  number  of  chiefs,  of  whom  the  Maharaja  of  Idar  is  by  far  the  most 
important.  In  May,  1877,  the.se  chiefs  were  classified  into  seven 
divisions,  according  to  the  extent  of  their  jurisdiction. 

The  Native  State  of  Idar  covers  more  than  half  the  territory ;  eleven 
other  States  are  of  some  importance  ;  and  the  remainder  are  estates 
belonging  to  Rajput  or  Koli  Thakurs,  once  the  lawless  feudatories 
of  Baroda,  and  still  requiring  the  anxious  supervision  of  the  Political 
Officer.  Statistics  for  all  the  States  and  estates  that  form  the  Agency 
are  shown  in  the  table  on  the  two  next  pages. 

Mahi   Kantha   includes  tracts  of  land  differing  widely  in  character 

and  appearance.     In  the  north  and  east  the  country  is  rough  and  wild, 

broken  by  ranges  of  steep  well-wooded  hills,  of  which 

aspects3  the  most   notaole  are   Ghahuns,  Kalaroo,  and   Roj- 

malno  in  Idar ;  Boda  Malvalo  and  Ghahuno  in  Pol  , 
Arasur  in  Danta  ;  and  Taranga  and  Amba  Vani  in  Ghodvada.  To  the 
nth  and  west  t Do  country  is  level,  well  wooded,  and  most  of  it  culti- 
vated. With  .i  well  marked  fall  from  the  north  east  to  the  south  west, 
the  Agenc)  is  thoroughly  drained.  The  Saraswati  riser,  for  about  40 
miles,  passes  close  to,  and  almost  parallel  with,  the  north  west  boundary. 


MAN/  KANTNA  13 

General  Statistics  of  each  State  in  the  Mahi  Kantha  Agency 


State. 


ist  Class  Stale. 


Idar  .... 

2nd  Class  States. 

Tol    . 

Danta 

yd  Class  States. 
Malpur 

Mania 
Mohanpur 

4th  Class  Talukas. 

Yarsora     . 
Pethapur  . 

Ranasan   . 

Punadra    . 

Khadal     . 

Ghorasar  . 

Katosan0  . 

IIol    .... 
Amliyara  . 

$tli  Class  Talukas. 
Valasna    . 
Dabha 

Vilsna 

Sudasna    . 

Magori 
Varagam  . 

Sathamba 

Rupalf     . 

Dadhalia  t 

tih  Class  Talukas. 
Ramus  J    . 
Bolundra  J 
Likhi§      . 

Hadol§     . 

Gabat  (7th  Class)  * 


Caste,  tribe, 
or  race  of  the 
ruling  chief. 


Rajput 
Rajput 

Rajput 

» 

Rajput 


Roll,  converted 
to  Islam. 


KolT 


V 

•-  £ 

2  « 

<  1 

— 


Rajput    . 

Roll,  converted 

to  Islam. 
Rajput    . 


Koli 

Rajput 


Muhainmadan 

Rajput    . 
Roh 


1,669 

»35 
347 

97 

25 

89 


3° 

1  i 

8 

16 
10 

19 

60 


o    . 

s  = 

3-S 


C 

3 

I   ft 

— 


IO 

32 

23 

:8 


t6 

28 

6 

6 

9 

' 

10 


884  I   168,557 


46 
168 

59 


3.959 
15,262 

8,065 


12        15,936 


10,040 


5 
3 

'9 
1 1 

13 

15 
6 

5 

32 


Revenue  (1903-4). 


Tribute. 


From 
land. 


Total,    '■  Amount. 


To  whom 
payable. 


27 


'3 


3,656 
5,753 

3,183 

2,662 


6,219 
5,5io 

3,806 
7,227 

2,749 
1,307 

4,494 

5,269 

1,527 
2,121 

3,022 


2,619 

865 
740 
959 
',66; 
604 


Rs. 

3,36,633 

10,300 
18,000 


12,732 

46,337 
12,126 

15,902 
11,064 

8,022 

11,220 

7,900 

iS,^2 
17,808 

i5,3c'5 

19,754 

4,507 

3,871  J 

6,621 

6,289  i 

2,864 
4,129 

3,36o 

3,585 
i,7°7 

'■  79 
i,94] 
1,093 

2,088 

2,454 


Rs. 

5,92,5M 

17,661 
42,727 


66,267 
--,773 

18,871 
18,479 

0,018 

1 5,598 

16,440 

23,4!5 
26,617 

20,982 

27,672 

5,953 
4-379 

10,631 

10,781 

5,056 
5,841 

6,146 
7,045 


Rs. 
30,340     Gaikwar. 


5M 

-,371 

500 

43° 
280 

396 
ii,754 

f    4,750 
(    2,245 


1,583 
8,632 

I       75o 
373 
3 


Idar. 

Gaikwar. 

Palanpur. 

The  British. 
Gaikwar. 
Idar. 
Gaikwar. 

Idar" 


Gaikwar. 

Idar." 
Gaikwar. 

The  British. 


375     Gaikwar. 


(    ',75i 

I       250 

/  3i5°i 

(       488 

4,893 
I       428 

1,863 

I         17 

3J7 


280 
f  150 
I  53 
3.109 
1  1,036 
1  361 
93 

~6i 
401 
127 

1,165 
362 
699 


Attarsumba. 

Gaikwar. 

Kaira. 

Gaikwar. 

Idar. 

Gaikwar. 

Ahmad  nagar. 

Gaikwar. 


Gaikwar. 

Amliyara. 
Gaikwar. 


3,u°y 

t 

6n 

:,6  !  : 

158 

2,499 

T,;t 

:,5J  ■ 

— 

3,983 

I 

41 

2,85i 

43 

Idar. 


Balasinor. 

Gaikwar. 

Lunaviida. 

<  Jaikwar. 

Idar. 

Gaikwar. 

Idar. 

Gaikwar. 

Idar. 

Gaikv  .11 . 
Idar. 


*  The  villages  of  Nandasa,  Jakasna,  Ajabpura,  Gamanpura,  and  Jotana  belong  to  the  chief  of  Katosan.  But 
their  liability  for  tribute  to  the  Gaikwar  is  separately  fixed,  and  the  respective  amounts  payable  by  them  are  as 
follows  :  Rs.  430-14-0,  Rs.  623-4-5,  Rs.  96-12-0,  Rs.  139-10-9,  and  Rs.  3,058-1-11. 

t  These  two  talukas  had  jurisdictional  powers,  of  which  they  were  deprived  owing  to  maladministration. 
They  were  then  placed  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Sabar  Kantha  t liana. 

t  The  talukas  of  Ramas,  Gabat,  and  Bolundra  are  under  Government  management  during  the  minority 
"f  their  chiefs.  The  first  two  are  in  charge  of  the  t 'tanadar  of  Vatrak  Kantha,  and  Bolundra  is  under  Sabai 
Rantha. 

§  'J  lie  chiefs  of  LiUhi  and  Hadol  are  iion-jurisdiclioiial  talukdars.  Llkhl  is  included  in  Sabar  Rantha  and 
Hadol  in  Gadhwara  ihana. 

P.    2 


M 


MA  Hi  KANTHA 


General  Statistics  of  each  State  in  the  Mahi  Kantha 

Agency   (contd) 


1     « 

HI 

1    c~ 

0   . 

1„  «1 

c 
0 

Revenue  (1903-4). 

Tribute. 

Caste,  tribe,       ■■*  £ 
or  race  of  the  ;    <u  u 

I-5 

3    CN 

State. 

ruling  chief. 

cr 

<s. 

V 

a  ~ 
0  w 

a. 

From 
land. 

Total. 

Amount. 

To  whom 
payable. 

Rs. 

Rs. 

Rs. 

Sabar  Kantha  Thana  :  — 

Gaikwar. 
Idar. 
Gaikwar. 
Idar. 

Derol             (6th  Class) 
Kheravada            „ 

K 

2 

4 

837 
804 

1,560 
3.3°2 

1,823 

3,758 

'       5'3 
V         47 
J        303 
1         93 

Kadoli                   „ 

) 

2 

93' 

2.544 

3,782 

J      5.3 

<  93 
5    1,118 
(       486 
i       187 

<  47 
J       699 

<  74 

Gaikwar. 

Idar. 

Vakhtapur             „ 
Prempur                ,. 

} 

• 

•  69 

4 
5 

',744 
1,694 

5,075 
3,512 

5,788 
3,99i 

Gaikwar. 
Idar. 
Gaikwar. 
Idar. 

Dedhrota              ,. 

» 

1 

2 

725 

1,685 

2,203 

Gaikwar. 
Idar. 

Tajpuri                  „ 

• 

' 

7 

'■574 

3,186 

t.096 

(       699 

)        186 

Gaikwar. 
Idar. 

Hapa                       „ 

J 

2 

838 

2,656 

3,974 

(    1,025 
I       219 

Gaikwar. 
Idar. 

Gadhwara  T/idiia : — 

Satlasna        (6th  Class) 

' 

1    / 

4,928 

2,500 

4,918 

2,794 

Gaikwar. 

Bhalusna               „ 

) 

9 

2,226 

1,000 

1.277 

1,163 

Idar. 

Timba           (7th  Class) 

) 

[    ! 

5 

1.675 

700 

935 

50 

,: 

Umari                   „ 

, 

-97- 

1 

1,021 

35o 

565 

\ 

Mota  Kotarna      „ 

) 

I 

3 

820 

400 

576 

* 

Chandapt     •         •         ■ 

4 

588 

546 

546 

J        7i 
(       217 

Gaikwar. 

Idar. 

Katosan  Thana  : — 

Maguna        (7th  Class)     Koh 

1 

5 

3.235 

11,763 

",959 

892 

Gaikwar. 

Tejpura 

3 

1,034 

3.5oo 

3.500 

308 

,, 

Virsoda                  „ 

3 

1 

718 

',25' 

1.326 

|       447 
(       120 

Patan. 

Palej 

) 

1 

3 

1.033 

4,600 

4,906 

399 

Gaikwar. 

Deloli 

' 

800 

2,852 

3.095 

256 

», 

Kasalpura              ,, 

) 

3°7 

2,39i 

2,39i 

48 

,, 

Memadpura          „ 

J 

-56- 

449 

1,800 

1,800 

175 

,. 

Rampura               „ 

J 

353 

1,752 

1,901 

{        49 
<         50 

Patau. 

Ijpura                    „ 

. 

342 

3,051 

3,051 

239 

Gaikwar. 

Ranipura               .. 

J 

'99 

i,935 

1,998 

— 

— 

Santhal  \ 

3.356 

§ 

§ 

1,774 

Gaikwar. 

Gokalpura} 

' 

.34 

II 

II 

42 

,* 

MuljT-na-pura  J     . 

220 

1 

11 

25 

,, 

Bavisi  Thana  '* 

96 

93 

28,459 

43,033 

46,733 

29,564 

,, 

Vatrak  Kantha  Thana:— 

Nirmalitt 

Jhertt 

,0 
12 

6 

14 

J.959 
2,705 

1,628 

2,000 

3,062 

\    I|« 

Gaikwar. 

Sidra  Bazar     ... 

1 

.,683 
3°'.545 

i.l  1  ! 

5,620 

— 

3. '25     t.729 

7,15,797 

n.17,826 

i,34.4H 

'   Subordinate  to  Satlasna  and  Bhalusna,  and  included  in  their  tribute. 

t  Chandap  is  a  matadari  village  and  has  no  chief. 

t  These  three  villages  have  no  separate  chief  of  their  own.  Santhal  belongs  to  the  bhayad of  the  chief  of 
Katosan  and  the  shareholders  of  Deloli,  Kasalpura,  &c.  MuljI-na-pura  belongs  to  the  shareholders  of  Deloli, 
and  Gokalpura  to  the  shareholders  of  Tejpura. 

§  Co-shared  village.  II  Included  in  Tejpura.  U  Included  in  Deloli. 

'    L  constituted  ol  .4  chief  matadari  villages  and  72  sub-villages,  including  Barmuada. 

tt  Nirmali  and  Jlicr  are  shared  by  the  Gaikwar  and  the  Miyan  of  Mandwa,  and  are  administered  by  the 
Political  Agent,  Main  Kantha. 


PHYSICAL    ASPECTS  15 

The  SabarmatI  river  flows  through  Mahi  Kantha  for  a  distance  of 
60  miles,  crossing  the  Agency  from  north-east  to  south-west  for  40  miles, 
and  skirting  its  western  boundary  for  20  miles.  The  Hathmati  river 
passes  through  Mahi  Kantha  for  about  35  miles,  and  joins  the  Sabar- 
mati below  Ahmadnagar.  The  Khari,  the  Meshwa,  the  Majam,  the 
Vatrak,  and  other  streams  also  drain  the  country.  Only  the  waters  of 
the  Hathmati  have  been  used  for  irrigation  on  a  large  scale.  Between 
1869  and  1873  a  weir  was  built  across  the  Hathmati  close  above 
Ahmadnagar,  and  so  much  of  its  water  as  was  not  wanted  for  the 
town  and  other  places  on  its  bank  was  taken  to  feed  a  canal  for 
irrigating  the  Parantij  taluka  of  Ahmadabad  District.  Though  it  has 
no  natural  lakes,  Mahi  Kantha  is  well  supplied  with  ponds  and  wells. 
The  Ran!  Talao  has  an  area  of  94  acres,  and  a  greatest  depth  of 
17  feet;  the  Karmabawi  Talao,  area  134  acres,  greatest  depth  15  feet  ; 
the  Babsur  Talao,  area  182  acres,  greatest  depth  15  feet. 

With  the  exception  of  Idar,  which  was  geologically  surveyed  in  T902, 
the  Mahi  Kantha  States  have  never  been  visited  by  any  geologist,  and 
nothing  definite  can  be  said  about  their  geological  constitution,  further 
than  that  it  appears  to  be  extremely  varied  and  complex.  One  of  the 
finest  building  stones  in  India  is  the  calcareous  sandstone  used  in 
the  mosques,  temples,  and  palaces  of  Ahmadabad,  which  is  quarried  at 
Ahmadnagar,  Savgarh,  and  Parbada  in  the  Idar  State,  and  exported  to 
considerable  distances.  No  details  as  to  its  mode  of  occurrence  have 
ever  been  ascertained  ;  but  it  is  suggested,  from  its  resemblance  to 
certain  rocks  of  Gujarat  and  Central  India,  that  its  age  may  be  Cre- 
taceous. The  best  lime  obtainable  in  India  is  made  from  a  limestone 
occurring  at  Betali  in  the  mountainous  country  about  Idar,  which 
constitutes  the  material  used  in  preparing  the  beautiful  stucco  so 
largely  used  in  the  buildings  at  Delhi.  Granite,  gneiss,  and  crystal- 
line marble  are  also  said  to  occur. 

Of  trees,  Mahi  Kantha  has  the  itia/u/d,  the  mango,  the  banyan,  the 
asopalav,  the  khahkra,  the  wood-apple,  the  mm,  and  the  teak.  The 
wild  animals,  many  of  which  are  becoming  rare,  are  tiger,  leopard,  bear, 
wolf,  wild  hog,  hyena,  jackal,  and  fox.  Deer  include  the  sdmbar, 
the  spotted  deer,  the  antelope,  the  Indian  gazelle,  and  the  nilgai.  The 
otter,  hare,  monkey,  and  wild  cat  are  common.  Snakes,  both  harmless 
and  venomous,  abound.  The  chief  game-birds  are  jungle-fowl,  wild 
duck,  snipe,  green  pigeon,  rock  grouse,  partridge,  bustard,  and  florican. 
The  rivers  are  well  stocked  with  fish. 

Except  in  several  parts  situated  in  the  north  and  north-east,  the 
climate  of  Mahi  Kantha  is  fairly  good.  The  greatest  heat  is  generally 
in  the  beginning  of  April,  and  the  greatest  cold  in  January.  The  tem- 
perature rises  to  1  io°  in  May  and  falls  to  500  in  January.  The  annual 
rainfall  at  Idar  averages  34  inches. 


r6  MAHI  KANTHA 

The  earliest  settlers,  both  rulers  and  ruled,  were  the  tribes  now- 
known  as  Bhils  and  Rolls.  The  next  corners  were  Rajputs,  whose 
arrival  in  Mahi  Kantha  seems  to  date  from  the 
establishment  of  Arab  power  in  Sind  and  the  fall 
of  Vallabhinagar  in  the  eighth  century.  In  the  eleventh  century  the 
Musalman  destruction  of  Nagar  Tatta  in  Sind  drove  out  the  Paramara 
Rajputs  ;  and  in  the  next  two  centuries  the  farther  advance  of  Musal- 
man power  forced  many  other  Rajput  tribes,  such  as  the  Paramaras  of 
Chandravati,  the  Rathors  of  Kanauj,  and  the  Chavadas  of  Anhilvada, 
south  into  the  Mahi  Kantha  hills.  To  the  Chandravati  Parmars  belong 
the  houses  of  Mohanpur,  Ranasan,  Rupal,  Varagam,  and  Bolundra  ;  to 
the  Kanauj  Rathors  belong  the  houses  of  Pol,  Malpur,  Valasna,  and 
Magori  :  and  to  the  Chavadas  of  Anhilvada  belong  the  houses  of 
Mansa  and  Yarsora.  By  intermarriage  with  the  KolTs  many  of  these 
Rajputs  lost  caste,  keeping  only  the  names  of  the  clans — Makvana, 
Dabi,  and  Bariya — to  which  their  forefathers  belonged.  In  the  fifteenth 
century  came  the  Vaghela  houses  of  Pethapur  and  Posina  (in  Idar). 

Jai  Chand,  the  last  Rathor  Rajput  sovereign  of  Kanauj,  is  said  to 
have  left  two  sons  :  the  first  founded  the  present  family  of  Marwar,  and 
the  second  in  1257  established  himself  at  Idar.  For  four  centuries  the 
chiefs  of  the  line  bore  the  title  of  Rao  of  Idar:  but  the  last  independent 
prince,  Jagannath,  was  driven  out  by  the  Muhammadans  in  1656. 
(For  further  history  of  Idar,  see  Idar  State.)  The  family  retired  into 
the  hills,  fixed  their  head-quarters  at  Pol,  and  were  known  as  the  Raos 
of  that  mountainous  tract.  The  present  chief  is  descended  from  them. 
Danta  is  said  to  have  been  established  in  809,  but  its  history  is  mainly 
a  record  of  continual  struggles  with  Idar.  In  the  fifteenth  century 
Mahi  Kantha  fell  under  the  sway  of  the  Ahmadabad  Sultans,  and  on 
their  decline  under  that  of  the  Mughal  emperors.  The  Mughals  only 
collected  occasional  tribute  by  moving  a  large  force  into  the  territory. 
The  Marathas  followed  the  Mughals,  and  every  two  or  three  years  sent 
their  mulk-giri  or  'tribute-collecting  army:  into  the  region.  In  1811, 
when  the  Maratha  power  was  declining,  the  British  Government  stipu- 
lated to  collect  and  pay  over  to  the  Gaikwar  the  yearly  tribute.  In 
1820  the  British  Government  finally  took  over  the  management  of  the 
Main  Kantha  territory.  They  agreed  to  collect  and  pay  over  the 
tribute  free  of  expense  to  Baroda,  while  Baroda  was  pledged  not  to 
send  troops  into  the  country,  or  in  any  way  to  interfere  with  the 
administration.  Since  1820  disturbances  have  occurred  more  than 
once.  From  1833  to  1836  there  were  local  tumults,  which  required 
an  armed  force  for  their  suppression.  In  1S57-8  a  display  of  force 
again  became  necessary,  when  the  registration  of  arms  and  the  dis- 
arming of  part  of  the  people  took  place.  A  smart  engagement  was 
fought  at  Taringa  hill,  and  the  town  of  Mondeti  was  carried  by  assault. 


POPULATION  17 

In  1S67  a  disturbance  arose-  at  Posina.  Peace  remained  unbroken 
until  iS8r,  when  the  Bhlls  of  Pol  rose  against  their  chief  and  extorted 
from  him  a  settlement  of  their  claims. 

The  population  of  Mahl  Kantha  at  the  last  four  enumerations  was  : 
(1872)  447,056,  (1881)  517,485.  (1891)  58i,568>  and  Population 
(1901)  361,545.  The  enormous  decrease  of  38  per 
cent,  during  the  last  decade  was  due  to  famine.  Mahl  Kantha  con- 
tains 6  towns  and  1,723  villages,  and  supports  115  persons  to  the 
square  mile.  The  towns  are  Mansa,  Idar,  Pethapur,  Vadali, 
Ah.madnagar,  and  Sadra.  Hindus  form  90  per  cent,  of  the  total, 
Muhammadans  5  per  cent.,  Jains  3  per  cent.,  and  aboriginal  tribes 
number  6,367.  Among  the  Hindus,  Brahmans  number  27,000,  Raj- 
puts 15,000,  Varus  9,000,  Kunbis  (cultivators)  68,000,  Kolls  (labourers) 
92,000,  Kumbhars  (potters)  9,000 ;  and  among  low  castes,  Chamars 
15,000,  and  Dhers  14,000.  Muhammadans  are  chiefly  Momins  (4,000), 
formerly  weavers  but  now  mostly  cultivators,  and  Ghanchis  (3,000)  or 
oilmen.  The  aboriginal  tribes  are  chiefly  Bhils  (18,000),  of  whom 
1 2, coo  were  entered  as  Hindus  at  the  recent  Census,  though  probably 
not  differing  in  religion  from  their  animistic  brethren. 

The  Bhils  are  the  most  remarkable  of  the  Mahl  Kantha  tribes. 
They  are  hardy  and  enterprising,  and  as  sagacious  in  daily  conduct 
as  they  are  secret  and  speedy  when  on  one  of  their  robbing  expeditions. 
They  speak  a  dialect  composed  of  Rajasthani  and  Gujarat!,  which  is 
extremely  difficult  to  understand  ;  worship  stones  covered  with  red  lead 
and  oil ;  believe  firmly  in  witchcraft,  and  are  much  addicted  to  witch- 
swinging.  Ordinarily  among  the  Mahl  Kantha  Bhils  the  woman 
chooses  her  own  husband.  At  the  Posina  fair  in  the  north,  if  a  Bhll 
succeeds  in  taking  the  woman  he  desires  to  marry  across  the  river 
without  being  discovered,  the  parents  of  both  agree  to  the  marriage. 
If  he  is  found  out  before  he  has  crossed  the  river,  the  man  is  severely 
handled  by  the  father  of  the  girl.  The  ver  or  Bhil  vendetta  usually 
takes  the  form  of  cattle-lifting.  No  Bhfl  will  disregard  the  kulki  or  cry 
which  proclaims  that  a  tribesman  is  in  trouble.  Some  Bhils,  taking  the 
name  of  bhagats  or  ascetics,  have  become  the  followers  of  a  Bhil 
teacher,  Kheradi  Surmal.  This  teacher  is  a  follower  of  the  Hindu  god 
Rama  (the  seventh  incarnation  of  Vishnu),  and  forbids  eating  the  flesh 
of  domestic  animals,  the  drinking  of  liquor,  and  the  committing  of 
offences.  Like  a  high-caste  Hindu,  the  bhagat  does  not  partake  of  food 
without  bathing,  puts  a  red  mark  on  the  brow,  and  ties  a  yellow  strip 
of  cloth  round  the  turban.  The  Bhils  formerly  treated  these  bhagats  as 
outcastes,  and  caused  them  much  annoyance.  This  the  authorities  put 
a  stop  to.  In  1880  the  bhagats  were  estimated  at  Soo,  and  not  one  o( 
their  number  had  been  accused  of  any  crime.  They  are  now  no  longer 
regarded  as  outcastes,  and  are  increasing  in  number. 


1 8  MA  III  KANTHA 

The  Census  of  1901  showed  that  59  per  cent,  of  the  entire  population 
are  engaged  in  agriculture  ;  commercial  and  professional  classes  include 
4  per  cent,  and  1  per  cent,  respectively. 

The  soil  is  of  two  kinds,  sandy  and  black,  both  of  which  are  rich. 

.     ,  The  south  and  west  of  the  Agency  are  level.     Most 

Agriculture.         r  .       ...  e      ,,     .,  .  ~r 

of  the  tillage  is  for  kharij  or  rainy  season  crops.    Of 

the  total  area  of  3,125  square  miles,  more  than  850  square  miles,  or 

27  per  cent.,  are  cultivable.     The  chief  crops  grown  are  wheat,  rice, 

/'djra,  gram,  cotton,  sesamum,  rapeseed,  and  sugar-cane.     The  Mahi 

Kantha  bullocks  are  smaller  and  weaker  than  those  of  North  Gujarat ; 

the  buffaloes  are  also  inferior.     In  the  valley  of  the  Saraswati  there  is 

a  large  irrigated  area.     The  waters  of  the  Hathmati  have  been  used 

for  irrigation,  and  the  canal  from  that  river  is  worked  by  Government. 

Elsewhere  irrigation  is  carried  on  chiefly  from  wells  and  ponds. 

Though  it  contains  large  tracts  of  more  or  less  wooded  hills,  chiefly 
covered  with  bamboos,  brushwood,  and  teak,  Mahi  Kantha  has  no 
important  revenue-yielding  forests.  The  teak  is  generally  uncared  for, 
and  cut  down  before  it  grows  to  any  size.  The  chief  products  are  gum 
and  honey.  At  Ahmadnagar,  Savgarh,  and  Parbada  in  the  Idar  State 
a  very  superior  calcareous  sandstone  is  quarried,  which  is  much  used 
for  ornamenting  public  buildings. 

Weaving  is  carried  on  at  Ahmadnagar  and  Pethapur.     The  finest 

weaving  is  the  work  of  the  Musalmans  of  the  Momin  sect.     The  cloth 

made  by  them  is  woven  from  silk  and  cotton  yarn, 

ra  e  an  ^  ^  country  and  English.     The  best  dyers  are  at 

communications.  }  b  J 

Pethapur  and  Vasna,  who  colour  and  export  coarse 

English  cloth.     Since  the  famine  many  of  the  people  engaged  in  local 

industries  have  emigrated  to  the  neighbouring  cities  to  find  work  in 

the  mills.    Idar,  Ahmadnagar,  and  Pethapur  were  once  famous  for  their 

arms  and  cutlery.     The  manufacture  of  arms  is  now  forbidden,  and  the 

cutlery  industry  is  declining. 

Considerable  trade  was  formerly  carried  on  between  Gujarat  and 
Mewar  through  Idar,  Pol,  and  thence  to  Marwar.  Pethapur  and  Yasna 
export  dyed  cloth  worth  over  a  lakh  annually.  The  chief  local  trade 
centres  are  Mansa,  Pethapur,  Sadra,  Idar,  Ahmadnagar,  and  Katosan. 
The  most  important  fairs  are  those  at  Samalji  and  Brahmakhed. 

The  Mahi  Kantha  Agency  is  traversed  by  three  railways,  the  Ahmad- 
abad-Parantlj,  the  Gaikwar's  Mehsana,  and  the  Vijapur-Kalol-Kadi  line. 
The  first  passes  by  Dabhoda,  Rakhial,  and  Ahmadnagar ;  the  second 
by  Jotana  and  Katosan ;  and  the  third  has  stations  at  Limbodra  and 
Radheja,  serving  the  Mahi  Kantha  towns  of  Mansa,  Pethapur,  and 
Sadra.  There  are  41  miles  of  metalled  and  89  miles  of  unmetalled 
roads  in  the  Agency,  the  most  important  being  the  Idar-Ahmadnagar 
road  in  Idar.  the  Danta-Ambaji  road,  the  Sadra-Pabhoda  road,  and  the 


.  /  DMIfflS  TJRA  TIOX  1 9 

[halod-Modasa  road  in  Varagam.  Avenues  of  trees  are  maintained  for 
3  miles.  Post  offices  are  situated  at  Idar,  Ahmadnagar,  .Sadra,  and 
Mansa.  Telegraph  offices  have  been  recently  opened  at  Sadra,  Idar, 
and  Ahmadnagar. 

Severe  famines  occurred  during  the  last  two  centuries  in  1791,  1813, 
and  1899-1900,  besides  scarcities  in  1825  and  1834.  The  recent  famine 
of  1 899-1 900  was  of  an  unprecedented  nature  and 
pressed  very  severely  on  the  people.  Relief  works 
were  opened  and  poorhouses  were  established.  At  the  height  of  the 
famine  there  were  37,249  persons  on  relief  works  and  6,251  in  receipt 
of  gratuitous  relief.  Advances  and  remissions  were  granted,  and  the 
talukdars  were  assisted  with  loans  from  Government  for  relief  and 
other  purposes. 

At  the  head  of  the  Agency  is  the  Political  Agent,  who  has  three 

Assistants.     The  talukas  up  to  the  third  class  are  under  his  direct 

supervision.     The  other  talukas  and  the  five  t/nlnas     .... 

r  _  ,.  •  1    1   1  1  •      Administration, 

or  groups  of  petty  estates  are  divided  between  his 

Assistants.  The  Assistant  Political  Agent  has  also  the  charge  of  the 
Agency  police.  The  Personal  Assistant  has  the  charge  of  all  estates 
and  talukas  attached  by  the  British  Government  during  the  minority  of 
the  holders  or  by  reason  of  mismanagement.  The  Native  Assistant  has 
charge  of  the  Sadra  civil  station,  the  treasury,  and  the  jail.  Civil  and 
criminal  justice  is  administered  by  the  chiefs  according  to  the  class  to 
which  they  belong.  The  Maharaja  of  Idar  is  a  first-class  chief,  exer- 
cising full  powers  of  jurisdiction,  both  civil  and  criminal  (in  the  case  of 
capital  offences  committed  by  British  subjects  with  the  consent  of  the 
Political  Agent).  The  chiefs  of  the  second  class  exercise  jurisdiction  in 
civil  cases  up  to  Rs.  20,000  and  full  jurisdiction  in  criminal  cases, 
subject  to  confirmation  by  the  Political  Agent  in  capital  cases,  and  with 
the  same  limitation  as  Idar  in  regard  to  British  subjects.  Chiefs  of  the 
third  class  exercise  jurisdiction  in  civil  cases  up  to  Rs.  5,000,  and  in 
criminal  cases  up  to  a  penalty  of  two  years'  imprisonment  and  Rs.  1,000 
fine,  with  a  limitation  in  regard  to  British  subjects ;  and  so  on  for  the 
remaining  four  classes,  with  gradually  decreasing  powers.  The  Political 
Agent  is  vested  with  the  powers  both  of  a  Sessions  Judge  and  of  a  Dis- 
trict Magistrate.  As  far  as  practicable,  the  Civil  and  Criminal  Procedure 
Codes  and  the  Indian  Penal  Code  are  in  force,  but  in  the  wild  Bhll 
tracts  on  the  Rajputana  frontier  all  offences  are  dealt  with  under  rules 
based  on  local  customs.  In  1838  Captain  (afterwards  Sir  James) 
Outram  instituted  border  panchayats  for  the  settlement  of  the  numerous 
blood-feuds  and  disputes  between  the  wild  Bhils  on  the  Mahl  Kantha 
and  Rajputana  frontiers.  The  system,  which  is  one  of  money  com- 
pensation for  crime,  has  been  found  very  effective  in  preventing  reprisals 
and  maintaining  peace.     In  1873  tne  ru^es  were  revised,  providing  for 


20  MAHI  KANTHA 

the  regular  assembling  of  the  courts  under  a  British  officer  as  president, 

aided  by  two  assessors  from  each  of  the  States  concerned.  In  1878 
arrangements  were  concluded  for  the  extradition  of  all  criminals  except 
Bhlls,  and  of  bhopds  or  witch-finders  among  the  Bhlls,  between  Mahi 
Kantha  and  Rajputana.  The  commonest  forms  of  offence  are  theft, 
robbery,  dacoity,  cattle-stealing,  hurt,  and  murder. 

Formerly  the  land  revenue  was  farmed,  but  it  is  now  collected  direct 
from  the  cultivators.  Except  in  a  portion  of  the  Idar  State,  no  survey 
settlement  has  been  introduced.  The  entire  revenues  of  the  States 
of  Mahi  Kantha  in  1903-4  were  returned  at  11^  lakhs,  the  chief 
sources  being  land  revenue,  excise,  and  judicial  revenue.  Prior  to  the 
famine  of  1899-1900  the  gross  revenues  exceeded  12  lakhs.  The 
expenditure  in  1903-4  amounted  to  ri  lakhs.  The  total  tribute  pay- 
able by  different  States  amounts  to  nearly  \\  lakhs.  The  Gaikwar,  as 
superior  overlord,  receives  more  thah  a  lakh  ;  but  of  this  amount  about 
a  lakh  has  been  credited  to  Government  towards  police  expenses  since 
the  withdrawal  of  the  contingent  maintained  by  the  Gaikwar.  The 
chief  of  Idar  receives  about  Rs.  8,600,  and  other  Gujarat  States  (who 
receive  tribute  from  minor  allied  feudatories  in  the  Agency)  Rs.  2,166. 
The  whole  of  the  tribute  is  collected  by  the  British  Government 
and  handed  over  to  the  superior  chiefs  entitled  to  receive  it.  In 
1878-9  measures  were  taken  in  most  of  the  Mahi  Kantha  States 
for  the  suppression  of  illicit  stills,  in  which  mahua  liquor  is  manu- 
factured ;  but  the  cheapness  of  this  liquor  is  still  the  curse  of  the  Mahi 
Kantha  States,  as  the  Bhlls  and  Kolls  cannot  resist  the  temptation  to 
drunkenness. 

There  are  two  distinct  police  forces  in  the  Agency,  the  Agency  police 
and  the  State  police.  In  1903-4  the  strength  of  the  former  was  121 
mounted  and  393  foot,  and  the  latter  consisted  of  r  75  mounted  and 
915  foot.  There  are  39  jails  and  lock-ups,  with  a  daily  average  of 
210  prisoners. 

Local  funds  are  collected  and  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  Political 
Agent.  The  receipts  of  the  Agency  Local  funds  in  1903-4  amounted 
to  more  than  one  lakh,  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  96,000.  These 
funds  are  known  as  the  (r)  Agency  general  fund,  made  up  of  contri- 
butions from  the  States  and  judicial  receipts  of  the  Agency  courts,  and 
expended  on  education,  justice,  and  vaccination  ;  (2)  Sadra  Bazar  fund, 
composed  of  taxes  and  octroi,  and  expended  on  education  and  con- 
servancy ;  (3)  Scott  College  fund,  composed  of  subscriptions  from  the 
States;  and  (4)  the  Jubilee  Pauper  Patient  Endowment  fund,  com- 
posed of  subscriptions  from  the  States  and  private  persons  for  the 
benefit  of  helpless  patients  in  the  dispensary. 

There  is  a  talukdari  school,  known  as  the  Scott  College,  at  Sadra, 
with   27   boy-,   on    the   rolls,   built   at   a   cost   of  over   hall    a    lakh,   for 


MAHLAING  21 

the  sons  of  the  Rajas  and  the  Thakurs  who  are  unable  to  attend  the 
Rajkumar  College  in  Kathiawar.  The  total  number  of  schools  in  the 
Agency  in  1903-4  was  117,  with  an  attendance  of  6,315  pupils.  The 
total  expenditure  was  Rs.  30,189.  The  4  Bhil  schools  managed  by 
the  missionaries  are  attended  by  over  117  pupils.  Of  the  total  popu- 
lation, 22,641,  or  6  per  cent.  (12  per  cent,  males  and  0-3  females),  were 
recorded  as  literate  in  1901. 

Nineteen  dispensaries  were  maintained  in  1903-4,  at  which  59,228 
patients  were  treated.  The  total  cost  was  Rs.  22,605.  About  10,000 
persons  were  vaccinated  in  the  same  year. 

Mahim  Taluka. — Western  taluka  of  Thana  District,  Bombay, 
lying  between  190  29'  and  19°  52'  N.  and  730  39'  and  730  1/  E.,  with 
an  area  of  409  square  miles.  It  contains  one  town,  Kelve-MahIm 
(population,  5,699),  the  head-quarters :  and  187  villages.  The  population 
in  1901  was  82,562,  compared  with  85,841  in  1891.  The  density,  202 
per  square  mile,  is  slightly  below  the  District  average.  Land  revenue 
and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  more  than  1-9  lakhs.  A  range  of 
forest-clad  hills  divides  the  taluka  from  north  to  south  ;  and  in  the 
north-east  corner  are  high  hills  with  jagged  peaks,  of  which  Asheri  is 
the  chief.  In  the  south-east,  Takmak  peak  rises  to  2,000  feet  above 
sea-level.  The  land  to  the  west  of  the  central  range  is  low,  flat,  and 
broken  by  swamps  and  tidal  creeks.  The  climate  is  pleasant  on  the 
coast  during  the  hot  season ;  but  during  the  rest  of  the  year  both  the 
coast  and  the  interior  are  notoriously  malarious.  The  rainfall  (63 
inches)  is  much  below  the  District  average.  The  water-supply  is  fair. 
The  Vaitarna  river,  which  flows  through  the  taluka,  is  navigable  by 
native  craft  of  about  25  tons.  Hot  springs,  similar  to  those  at  Vajrabai 
in  Bhiwandi,  are  found  at  Sativli  and  are  supposed  to  flow  from  the 
same  source. 

Mahim.— Town  in  Thana  District,  Bombay.     See  Kelve-Mahim. 

Mahim. — Town  in  the  District  and  tahsll  of  Rohtak,  Punjab.  See 
Maham. 

Mahlaing.  — North-western  township  of  Meiktila  District,  Upper 
Burma,  lying  across  the  Meiktila-Myingyan  railway,  between  20°  54' 
and  2ic  19'  N.  and  950  28'  and  950  52'  E.,  with  an  area  of  426  square 
miles.  The  population  was  55,868  in  1891,  and  62,890  in  1901,  dis- 
tributed in  250  villages,  Mahlaing  (population,  2,251),  a  local  trade 
centre,  situated  on  the  railway  near  the  Myingyan  border,  being  the 
head-quarters.  The  township,  together  with  the  adjoining  Natogyi 
township  of  Myingyan  District,  constitutes  the  chief  cotton-producing 
area  in  Burma,  and  consists  of  typical  cotton  country,  dry  and 
undulating.  In  1903-4  the  area  cultivated  was  143  square  miles, 
including  31  square  miles  under  cotton  :  and  the  land  revenue  and 
thathameda  amounted  to  Rs.  1,23,000. 


22 


.VA/fLOG 


Mahlog.  — One  of  the  Simla  Hill  States,  Punjab.     See  Mailog. 

Mahmudabad  Estate. — Large  talukdari  estate  in  the  Districts  of 
Sltapur,  Bara  Banki,  Kherl,  and  Lucknow,  United  Provinces,  with  a 
total  area  of  397  square  miles.  The  land  revenue  payable  to  Govern- 
ment amounts  to  3-5  lakhs,  and  cesses  to  Rs.  55,000,  while  the  rent- 
roll  is  8-5  lakhs.  The  tahikddr  traces  his  descent  from  a  Shaikh 
named  Nasrullah,  who  was  Kazi  of  Baghdad,  but  came  to  India  in 
the  twelfth  century.  His  descendants  for  three  generations  held. the 
office  of  Kazi  of  Delhi  ;  and  about  1345  Kazi  Nusrat-ullah,  also  known 
as  Shaikh  Nathan,  was  sent  by  Muhammad  bin  Tughlak  to  reduce  the 
Bhars  in  Bara  Bank!.  He  was  successful  and  received  a  large  estate. 
Another  member  of  the  family,  named  Daud  Khan,  was  a  celebrated 
soldier  who  did  good  service  against  Himu,  the  general  of  the  Sun's. 
His  son,  Mahmud  Khan,  was  also  a  distinguished  leader,  and  founded 
the  town  of  Mahmudabad.  The  family  maintained  its  position  through- 
out the  Mughal  period,  and  their  estates  were  largely  extended  under 
the  Oudh  rulers.  Nawab  All  Khan  received  the  title  of  Raja  from 
the  king  in  1850.  A  few  years  later  he  took  a  prominent  part  in  the 
Mutiny,  but  submitted  early  in  1858.  His  successor,  Muhammad 
Amir  Hasan  Khan,  rendered  important  public  services  and  was 
rewarded  by  the  recognition  of  the  title  of  Raja  and  the  grant  of 
a  K.C.I.E.  He  was  succeeded  in  May,  1903,  by  his  son,  Raja  Ali 
Muhammad  Khan,  a  member  of  the  Provincial  Legislative  Council. 
The  chief  town  in  the  estate  is  Mahmudabad. 

Mahmudabad  Town. — Town  in  the  Sidhauli  tahsll  of  Sltapur 
District,  United  Provinces,  situated  in  270  18'  N.  and  8i°  8'  E.,  on 
a  metalled  road  from  Sidhauli  station  on  the  Lucknow-Bareilly  State 
Railway.  Population  (1901),  8,664.  It  was  founded  by  an  ancestor 
of  the  talukdar  who  owns  the  Mahmudabad  Estate,  and  contains  a 
fine  mansion,  which  is  the  family  residence,  and  also  a  dispensary.  A 
large  market  is  held  twice  a  week,  and  brass  vessels  are  manufactured. 
There  is  a  school  with  58  pupils. 

Mahoba  Subdivision.  -Subdivision  of  Hamirpur  District,  United 
Provinces,  including  the  Mahoba  and  Kulpahar  tahslls. 

Mahoba  Tahsil. — South-eastern  tahsll  of  Hamirpur  District,  United 
Provinces,  conterminous  with  the  pargana  of  the  same  name,  lying 
between  250  6'  and  250  38'  N.  and  790  41'  and  8oc  9'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  329  square  miles.  Population  fell  from  74,200  in  1891  to  61,93s 
in  1 90 1,  the  rate  of  decrease  being  the  highest  in  the  District.  There 
are  92  villages  and  one  town,  Mahoba  (population,  10,074),  the 
tahsll  head-quarters.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in  1904-5  was 
Rs.  75,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  13,000.  The  density  of  population, 
188  persons  per  square  mile,  is  the  lowest  in  the  District.  In  the 
north  some  fairly  good  black  soil  is  found  ;  but  scattered  rocky  hills 


.UAH RAJ  23 

stud  the  southern  portion,  and  the  soil  here  is  inferior  and  only  a  thin 
layer  conceals  the  underlying  rock.  Several  considerable  artificial 
lakes  made  by  the  Chandels  add  a  charm  to  the  landscape  and  supply 
water  for  irrigation.  In  1903-4  the  area  under  cultivation  was  133 
square  miles,  of  which  only  5  were  irrigated.  Pan  cultivated  near 
Mahoba  has  a  great  reputation,  being  exported  to  Calcutta  and  Bombay. 

Mahoba  Town. — Ancient  town  in  Hamlrpur  District,  United  Pro- 
vinces, and  head-quarters  of  the  tahsil  of  the  same  name,  situated  in 
25°  18'  N.  and  790  53'  E.,  on  the  road  from  Cawnpore  to  Saugor  and 
also  on  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway.  Population  (1901),  10,074. 
The  name  is  derived  from  the  great  sacrifice  or  Mahotsava,  said  to  have 
been  performed  by  Chandra  Varmma,  the  traditional  founder  of  the 
Chandel  dynasty,  which  ruled  a  large  tract  of  country  from  here  {see 
Bundelkhand).  Mahoba  stands  on  the  banks  of  the  Madan  Sagar, 
a  lake  constructed  by  Madan  Varmma,  the  fifteenth  king  and  the 
most  powerful  of  all  the  Chandel  rulers.  Architectural  antiquities  of 
the  period  abound  throughout  the  neighbourhood.  The  Ram  Kund, 
which  is  believed  to  mark  the  place  where  Chandra  Varmma  died, 
is  a  tank  of  especial  sanctity.  The  fort,  now  almost  entirely  in  ruins, 
commands  a  beautiful  view  over  the  hills  and  lakes.  Several  of  the 
latter,  confined  by  magnificent  masonry  dams,  have  greatly  silted  up  ; 
but  the  Kirat  Sagar  and  Madan  Sagar  still  remain  deep  and  clear  sheets 
of  water.  The  shores  of  the  lakes  and  the  islands  in  their  midst  (one 
of  which  in  the  Madan  Sagar  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  stone 
causeway)  are  thickly  covered  with  pillars  and  broken  sculpture.  The 
numerous  arms  of  the  lakes  embrace  rocky  tongues  of  land  surmounted 
by  picturesque  ruins.  Three  miles  east  of  the  town  lies  the  Bijainagar 
Sagar,  the  largest  of  all  and  more  than  four  miles  in  circuit,  while  to 
the  south-west  lies  the  Rahilya  Sagar,  on  the  bank  of  which  a  large 
ruined  temple  is  situated.  Mahoba  was  probably  the  civil  capital  of 
the  Chandels,  while  their  greatest  fortress  was  at  Kalinjar,  and  their 
religious  capital  at  Khajraho.  After  a  rule  of  more  than  three 
centuries  Parmal  was  conquered  by  Prithwi  Raj  of  Delhi  in  1182,  and 
twenty  years  later  Mahoba  fell  into  the  hands  of  Kutb-ud-din,  after 
which  little  is  heard  of  the  Chandels.  In  the  seventeenth  and  eigh- 
teenth centuries  this  part  of  the  country  was  ruled  by  the  Bundelas. 
The  Musalman  buildings  of  the  town  are  exclusively  constructed  from 
Hindu  materials.  A  mosque  bears  an  inscription  which  assigns  its 
foundation  to  the  year  1322  in  the  reign  of  Ghiyas-ud-din  Tughlak. 
The  town  contains  a  small  cotton-press,  a  dispensary,  and  a  mission 
orphanage.  It  is  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income 
of  about  Rs.  3,500.  There  is  an  increasing  trade  in  local  produce. 
The  tahsili  school  has  164  pupils. 

Mahraj. — A  collection  of  four  large  villages  in  the  Moga  tahsil  of 


24  M  AH  RAJ 

Ferozepore  District,  Punjab,  situated  in  300  19'  X.  and  750  14'  E. 
It  is  the  head-quarters  of  a  pargana,  held  almost  entirely  by  the 
Mahrajki  section  (a/)  of  the  Sidhu  Jats,  the  clan  of  which  the  Phulkian 
families  of  Patiala,  Nabha,  and  Jind  are  another  section.  A  great 
excavation,  from  which  was  taken  earth  to  build  the  town,  is  regarded 
as  a  sacred  spot,  offerings  being  made  monthly  to  the  guardian  priest. 
The  Mahrajkians,  who  own  the  surrounding  country  as  jagirdars,  form 
a  distinct  community  :  physically  robust,  but  litigious,  insubordinate, 
and  addicted  to  excessive  opium-eating.  Population  (1901),  5,780. 
The  place  possesses  a  vernacular  middle  school  and  a  Government 
dispensary. 

Mahronl. — South-eastern  tahsll  of  Jhansi  District,  United  Provinces, 
comprising  the  parganas  of  Banpur,  Mahronl,  and  Madaora,  and  lying 
between  240  n'  and  240  58'  N.  and  780  30'  and  790  o'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  887  square  miles.  Population  fell  from  117,047  in  1891  to  103,851 
in  1 90 1.  There  are  300  villages  and  one  town,  Mahronl,  the  tahsll 
head-quarters  (population,  2,682).  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  65,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  12,000.  The  density  of 
population,  1 1 7  persons  per  square  mile,  is  the  lowest  in  the  District. 
In  the  south  a  confused  mass  of  hills  marks  the  commencement  of  the 
Yindhyan  plateau.  The  drainage  is  carried  off  by  the  Dhasan  and 
Jamni,  tributaries  of  the  Betwa,  which  in  turn  form  part  of  the  eastern 
boundary.  Below  the  hills  lies  a  tract  of  black  soil,  gradually  turning 
to  red  in  the  north  and  east.  The  former  has  largely  deteriorated 
owing  to  the  spread  of  kdns  (Sacchariun  spontaneuni).  Irrigation  is 
practised  in  the  red  soil,  especially  towards  the  north.  In  1903-4 
the  area  under  cultivation  was  233  square  miles,  of  which  22  were 
irrigated,  almost  entirely  from  wells. 

Mahsuds. — The  country  of  the  Mahsuds  lies  in  the  south  ot 
Waziristan,  North-West  Frontier  Province.  It  is  hemmed  in  on  the 
north  and  west  by  the  Utmanzai  Darwesh  Khels,  on  the  south-west 
by  the  Ahmadzai  of  Wana,  and  on  the  east  by  the  Bhittannis.  On  the 
south  of  the  Mahsud  country  a  tract  on  both  the  north  and  south  side 
of  the  Gomal  Pass  is  devoid  of  permanent  inhabitants.  The  per- 
manent neighbours  of  the  Mahsuds  in  this  direction  are  the  Shiranis, 
whose  country  lies  south  of  the  tract  referred  to.  The  Mahsud  country 
hardly  comes  in  contact  with  British  India  ;  all  the  passes  from  it 
which  debouch  on  to  British  territory  pass  through  the  country  of  the 
Bhittannis.  The  Gomal  Pass  is  the  sole  exception  to  this  rule,  and 
several  routes  lead  from  it  to  the  Mahsud  country.  This  pass  has 
always  been  considered  as  belonging  to  the  Mahsuds,  though  actually 
it  is  outside  the  limits  of  their  country.  The  Mahsuds  renounced  their 
claim  to  raid  in  the  pass,  and  undertook  to  keep  it  safe  in  consideration 
of  the  allowances  and   service  granted   in   the  beginning   of  1890  at 


MAHSUDS  25 

Apozai  (Fort  Sandeman),  which  were  revised  after  the  attack  made  by 
them  on  the  Delimitation  Commission  at  Wana  in  November,  1894. 

The  Mahsud  country  is  a  tangled  mass  of  mountains  and  hills  of 
every  size,  shape,  and  bearing,  and  is  intersected  in  all  directions  by 
ravines  generally  flanked  through  their  course  by  high  hills.  At  first 
sight  the  whole  region  appears  to  be  occupied  by  hills  and  mountain  5 
running  irregularly  in  all  directions  ;  but  there  are  well  defined  ranges 
which  protect  the  interior  of  the  country  by  double  barriers,  and  make 
penetration  into  it  a  matter  of  extreme  difficulty. 

The  Mahsuds  claim  descent  from  Mahsud,  son  of  Mahmud,  son  of 
Khizri,  son  of  ^'azir,  and  are  divided  into  three  main  branches:  namely, 
Alizai,  Shaman  Khel,  and  Eahlolzai,  each  of  which  is  subdivided 
into  countless  sections  and  sub-sections.  The  fighting  strength  of  the 
three  branches  is  estimated  at — Alizai,  4,042  ;  Shaman  Khel  (including 
Urmars),  2,466  ;  and  Bahlolzai,  4,088  :  a  total  of  10,596.  Notwith- 
standing the  differences  in  their  fighting  strengths,  the  three  branches 
divide  the  tribal  profits  and  liabilities  into  three  equal  shares  among 
themselves. 

The  Punjab  Government  described  the  Mahsuds  in  1881  as 
follows  :  — 

'  Notorious  as  the  boldest  of  robbers,  they  are  more  worthily  admired 
for  the  courage  which  they  show  in  attack  and  in  hand-to-hand  fighting 
with  the  sword.  From  the  early  days  of  British  rule  in  the  Punjab  few 
tribes  on  the  frontier  have  given  greater  or  more  continuous  trouble, 
and  none  have  been  more  daring  or  more  persistent  in  disturbing  the 
peace  of  British  territory.  It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  for  the  first 
twenty  years  after  annexation  not  a  month  passed  without  some  serious 
crime,  such  as  cattle-lifting,  robbery  accompanied  by  murder,  being 
committed  by  armed  bands  of  marauders  from  the  Mahsud  hills.' 

The  description  is  still  applicable,  though  the  behaviour  of  the  tribe 
has  been  good  since  the  blockade  of  1901. 

The  redistribution  of  the  allowances  granted  to  the  tribe  in  1895, 
after  the  close  of  the  Mahsud  expedition,  was  made  with  special 
reference  to  the  reorganization  of  the  whole  scheme  of  maliks.  The 
principle  which  underlies  the  new  arrangement  was  that  the  power  and 
influence  of  a  limited  number  of  leading  maliks  in  the  tribe,  and  more 
particularly  in  their  respective  sections,  should  be  enhanced  by  even 
possible  means,  so  as  in  the  first  place  to  enable  them  to  control  their 
respective  sections  as  effectively  as  possible,  and  secondly  to  enable 
Government  to  deal  with  a  definite  number  of  tribal  representatives. 
The  plan  broke  down  completely,  for  Government  was  unable  to 
protect  the  ma/iks,  and  the  maliks  consequently  were  reluctant  to 
exert  such  authority  as  they  had.  The  state  of  the  border  went  from 
bad  to  worse  between  1895  and  1900,  when   the  tribe  was  put   under 


2  6  UAH  SUDS 

strict  blockade.  This  resulted  in  the  submission  of  the  Mahsuds  in 
1 90 1,  when  a  complete  redistribution  of  allowances  was  made.  The 
tribe  has  since  restrained  its  young  men  from  raiding  :  but  fanatical 
murders  by  Mahsuds,  which  were  previously  unknown,  have  given 
them  an  unenviable  notoriety. 

Mahudha. — Town  in  the  Nadiad  taluka  of  Kaira  District,  Bombay, 
situated  in  220  49'  N.  and  720  56'  E.  Population  (1901),  8,544. 
Mahudha  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  a  Hindu  prince  named 
Mandhata  about  two  thousand  years  ago.  The  municipality  was 
established  in  1889,  the  average  income  during  the  decade  ending  1901 
being  Rs.  8,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  8,300.  The  town 
contains  a  dispensary  and  four  schools  (three,  including  an  English 
school,  for  boys  and  one  for  girls),  attended  by  377  male  and  70 
female  pupils  respectively. 

Mahudi. — Hill  in  the  head-quarters  subdivision  of  Hazaribagh 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  240  12'  N.  and  S50  12'  E.,  about  8  miles 
from  the  southern  face  of  the  Hazaribagh  plateau.  The  hill  is  2,437 
feet  above  the  sea,  falling  steeply  on  every  side  for  800  feet.  Four 
rock-cut  temples  are  situated  on  the  summit. 

Mahul. — North-western  tahsll  of  Azamgarh  District,  United  Pro- 
vinces, comprising  the  parganas  of  Mahul,  Kauria,  and  Atraulia,  and 
lying  between  250  48'  and  260  27'  N.  and  820  40'  and  830  7'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  436  square  miles.  Population  fell  from  344,723  in  1891  to 
312,234  in  1901.  There  are  947  villages  and  two  towns,  but  neither 
of  them  has  a  population  of  over  5,000.  The  demand  for  land  revenue 
in  1903-4  was  Rs.  3,63,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  58,000.  The  density 
of  population,  716  persons  per  square  mile,  is  about  the  District 
average.  The  tahsll  is  divided  into  two  portions  by  the  Kunwar  Nadi. 
North  of  this  river  the  soil  is  a  light  loam  varying  to  sand,  while  the 
southern  part  is  chiefly  clay  and  is  intersected  by  swamps  and  small 
channels.  The  largest  river  is  the  Tons.  The  area  under  cultivation 
in  1898-9  was  251  square  miles,  of  which  149  were  irrigated.  Wells 
supply  more  than  half  the  irrigated  area,  and  tanks,  swamps,  and  small 
streams  the  remainder. 

Mahuva.  Town  and  port  in  the  State  of  Bhaunagar,  Kathiawar, 
Bombay,  situated  in  21°  5'  N.  and  710  40'  E.  Population  (1901), 
17,549.  The  fort  is  2  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  the  east  side 
of  which  is  formed  by  an  island  known  on  this  side  as  Jegri  or  Jigi 
Bluff,  with  a  2  fathoms  shoal  extending  for  nearly  a  mile.  North  of 
this  shoal  the  water  is  deep.  The  town  is  2  miles  to  the  north  of  the 
port  and  is  a  large  place,  having  several  buildings  and  a  temple.  Good 
water  may  be  had  at  a  well  on  Jegri  island.  In  the  neighbourhood 
is  a  large  swamp  extending  for  several  miles  to  the  north-east.  The 
islands    that    front    this    swamp   are  about   60   feet  high   and   form   a 


MAIHAR   STATE  27 

continuous  line  from  the  bay  to  Kutpur  Bluff,  12  miles  distant  from 
Jegri.  Mahuva,  the  ancient  name  of  which  was  Moherak,  stands  on  the 
Malan  river,  55  miles  south-west  of  Bhaunagar.  The  town  contains 
a  cotton-press,  and  is  the  scene  of  four  annual  fairs  attended  by  about 
5,000  people.  On  Jegri  Bluff  is  a  lighthouse,  99  feet  high,  with  a  fixed 
white  catadioptric  light  of  the  fourth  order  visible  from  13  miles.  The 
soil  of  Mahuva  is  very  fruitful  and  the  mangoes  grown  here  rival  those 
of  Bombay.  The  betel-vine  is  also  cultivated.  Coco-nut  palms  are 
plentiful.  Mahuva  merchants  are  generally  both  wealthy  and  enter- 
prising. The  principal  export  trade  is  in  cotton  sent  to  Bombay. 
There  are  good  turners,  who  manufacture  cots  or  dholias,  cradles,  and 
many  kinds  of  wooden  toys. 

Maibang. — Ruins  in  the  North  Cachar  subdivision  of  Cachar  Dis- 
trict, Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  situated  in  250  17'  X.  and  930  9'  K., 
between  two  spurs  of  the  Barail  Hills  on  the  north  side  of  the  water- 
shed. When  the  Kachari  Rajas  were  compelled  by  the  aggressions 
of  the  Ahoms  and  the  Nagas  to  abandon  their  capital  at  Dimapur,  and 
move  farther  into  the  hills,  they  settled  at  Maibang  :  but  during  the 
first  half  of  the  eighteenth  century  they  left  that  place,  and  after 
crossing  the  Barail,  established  their  court  at  Khaspur  in  the  plains 
of  Cachar.  In  1882  a  man  named  Sambhudan  took  up  his  abode  at 
Maibang,  and  announced  that  he  had  been  commissioned  by  Heaven 
to  restore  the  Kachari  kingdom.  The  Deputy-Commissioner,  Major 
Boyd,  proceeded  with  a  force  of  armed  police  to  arrest  him ;  but 
Sambhudan  evaded  him  and  burnt  the  subdivisional  station  at  Gun- 
jong,  which  had  been  left  undefended.  He  then  returned  and  attacked 
the  Deputy-Commissioner.  The  attack  was  easily  repulsed,  but  Major 
Boyd  received  a  severe  cut  in  the  hand,  which  caused  his  death  from 
tetanus  a  few  days  later.  Sambhudan  was  mortally  wounded  while 
endeavouring  to  escape  from  the  police.  Maibang  is  now  a  station 
on  the  Assam-Bengal  Railway.  Groves  of  bamboos  and  the  remains 
of  irrigation  works  show  that  the  place  must  originally  have  been 
densely  peopled,  but  few  masonry  ruins  are  now  to  be  seen. 

Maihar  State. — A  sanad  State  in  Central  India,  under  the  Political 
Agent  in  Baghelkhand,  lying  between  230  59'  and  240  24'  X.  and 
8o°  23' and  8i°  o'  E.,  with  an  area  of  about  407  square  miles.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  State  of  Xagod ;  on  the  east  by  Nagod 
and  Rewah  ;  on  the  west  by  Ajaigarh  ;  and  on  the  south  by  the 
Jubbulpore  District  of  the  Central  Provinces.  Maihar  is  watered  by 
the  Tons,  which  traverses  it  in  a  north-easterly  direction.  The  tract 
is  composed  mainly  of  sandstones  of  the  lower  Bandair  (Bhander) 
series,  in  great  part  concealed  by  alluvium.  At  Jukhehi  in  the  south 
of  the  State,  the  strike  of  the  Kaimur  range  is  displaced,  producing  the 
only  important  gap  in  the  whole  length  of  the  Vindhyans.     Advantage 

VOL.  XVII.  C 


28  MAIHAR   STATE 

was  taken  of  this  in  constructing  the  great  Deccan  road  and  the  branch 
of  the  East  Indian  Railway  between  Jubbulpore  and  Allahabad. 

The  chiefs  of  Maihar  claim  descent  from  the  Kachwaha  Rajput  clan, 
a  claim,  however,  which  is  not  admitted,  and  has  indeed  little  to 
support  it.  The  family  apparently  migrated  from  Alwar  in  the  seven- 
teenth or  eighteenth  century,  and  obtained  land  from  the  Orchha  chief. 
Thakur  Bhlm  Singh  later  on  entered  the  service  of  Chhatarsal  of 
Panna.  His  grandson,  Beni  Singh,  the  founder  of  the  State,  rising 
from  a  low  position,  finally  became  minister  to  Raja  Hindupat,  who 
about  1770  granted  him  the  territory  now  forming  Maihar,  which  had 
originally  been  a  part  of  Rewah.  Beni  Singh  was  killed  in  1788.  He 
has  left  many  monuments  of  his  liberality  throughout  Bundelkhand  in 
numerous  tanks  and  buildings.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Rajdhar, 
who,  together  with  the  other  chiefs  in  this  region,  was  conquered  by 
All  Bahadur  of  Banda  early  in  the  nineteenth  century.  AH  Bahadur, 
however,  restored  the  State  to  Durjan  Singh,  a  younger  son  of  Beni 
Singh.  In  1806  and  1814  Durjan  Singh  received  sanads  from  the 
British  Government,  confirming  him  in  the  possession  of  his  lands. 
On  his  death  in  1826  the  State  was  divided  between  his  two  sons, 
Bishan  Singh,  the  elder,  succeeding  to  Maihar,  while  Frag  Das,  the 
younger,  obtained  Bijai-Raghogarh.  The  latter  State  was  confiscated 
in  1858  owing  to  the  rebellion  of  the  chief.  The  present  chief, 
Raghublr  Singh,  succeeded  as  a  minor  in  1852,  and  obtained  adminis- 
trative powers  in  1865.  The  title  of  Raja  was  conferred  on  him  in 
1869  as  an  hereditary  distinction,  and  a  personal  salute  of  9  guns  was 
granted  in  1877  and  made  hereditary  in  1878. 

The  region  in  which  Maihar  lies  is  of  considerable  archaeological 
interest,  but  has  not  as  yet  been  fully  investigated.  Remains  are 
numerous  throughout  the  State,  especially  of  temples  in  the  mediaeval 
style  of  the  eleventh  to  the  thirteenth  century. 

The  population  has  been:  (1881)  71,709,  (1891)  77,546,  and  (1901) 
63,702,  giving  a  density  of  156  persons  per  square  mile.  Hindus 
number  49,740,  or  78  per  cent.;  Animists  (chiefly  Gonds),  11,876, 
or  19  per  cent.;  and  Musalmans,  2,009.  The  State  has-one  town, 
Maihar  (population,  6,802),  the  capital  ;  and  210  villages.  Baghel- 
khandi  is  spoken  by  50  per  cent,  of  the  inhabitants,  and  Bundelkhand! 
by  47  per  cent.  Agriculture  supports  about  90  per  cent,  of  the  total 
population. 

The  soil,  except  in  the  hills,  is  fertile  and  bears  good  crops.  Of  the 
total  area,  no  square  miles,  or  27  per  cent.,  are  under  cultivation, 
of  which  70  square  miles  are  irrigable ;  43  square  miles  are  cultivable 
but  not  cultivated  ;  and  the  rest  consists  of  forest  and  waste.  The 
forests,  which  cover  a  large  area  of  the  State,  are  not  as  yet  under 
systematic  management.     Kodon  and  rice  each  occupy  20  square  miles, 


MAIKALA  29 

or  36  per  cent,  of  the  cropped  area  ;  gram,  12  square  miles  ;  and  wheat, 
8  square  miles. 

Formerly  a  considerable  iron-smelting  industry  existed,  but  this  has 
now  almost  entirely  disappeared.  Want  of  good  internal  communica- 
tions has  made  the  development  of  trade  difficult,  though  a  certain 
amount  of  timber  is  exported. 

The  chief  has  full  powers  in  all  matters  of  general  administration 
and  in  civil  judicial  cases.  In  criminal  cases  he  has  power  to  inflict 
sentences  of  imprisonment  not  exceeding  two  years.  The  total  revenue 
from  all  sources  is  about  Rs.  75,000,  of  which  Rs.  55,000  is  derived 
from  land  revenue.  The  principal  item  of  expenditure  is  Rs.  32,000 
on  general  administration,  including  the  chief's  establishment.  The 
British  rupee  has  been  current  since  1849.  A  small  force  of  foot  and 
horse,  amounting  to  150  men  with  7  serviceable  guns,  is  maintained. 
At  the  Census  of  1901,  only  1  per  cent,  of  the  population  were  able  to 
read  and  write.  The  State  contains  eleven  schools  and  one  hospital. 
Vaccination  has  made  little  progress,  owing  to  the  strong  prejudice 
shown  by  the  inhabitants. 

Maihar  Town. — Capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name  in  Central 
India,  situated  in  240  16'  N.  and  8o°  46"  E.,  on  the  East  Indian  Rail- 
way, at  the  foot  of  the  Bandair  range,  1,980  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  Population  (1901),  6,802.  It  is  a  well-built  place,  many  of  the 
houses  being  constructed  of  the  local  sandstone.  Outside  the  present 
site  is  a  fort  built  in  the  sixteenth  century  by  Raja  Blr  Singh  Deo 
of  Rewah,  mainly  from  remains  of  Hindu  temples,  which  is  used  as 
a  residence  by  the  chief.  A  large  number  of  ruined  shrines  are 
scattered  round  the  town,  and  traces  of  old  foundations  exist  which 
must  have  belonged  to  a  large  place.  There  are  two  lakes,  one  to 
the  north-west  and  the  other  to  the  south-west  of  the  town.  Maihar 
contains  a  British  post-office,  a  school,  and  a  dispensary. 

Maikala  (or  Mekala). — Range  of  hills  in  the  Central  Provinces  and 
Central  India,  lying  between  210  n'  and  220  40'  N.  and  8o°  46' 
and  8i°  46'  E.  It  is  the  connecting  link  between  the  great  hill  systems 
of  the  Vindhyas  and  Satpuras,  forming  respectively  the  northern  and 
southern  walls  of  the  Narbada  valley.  Starting  in  the  Khairagarh  State 
of  the  Central  Provinces,  the  range  runs  in  a  general  south-easterly 
direction  for  the  first  46  miles  in  British  territory,  and  then,  entering 
the  Sohagpur  pargana  of  Rewah  State,  terminates  84  miles  farther  at 
Amarkantak,  one  of  the  most  sacred  places  in  India,  where  the  source 
of  the  Narbada  river  is  situated.  Unlike  the  two  great  ranges  which  it 
connects,  the  Maikala  forms  a  broad  plateau  of  880  square  miles  in 
extent,  mostly  forest  country  inhabited  by  Gonds.  The  elevation  of 
the  range  does  not  ordinarily  exceed  2,000  feet,  but  the  Lapha  hill, 
a   detached    peak    belonging    to    it,  rises    to   3.500   feet.     The    range 

c  2 


3o  MAIKALA 

is  best  known  for  the  magnificent  forests  of  sal  {Shorea  rubustd)  which 
clothe  its  heights  in  many  places.  These  are  mainly  situated  in 
zamlndari  estates  or  those  of  Feudatory  chiefs,  and  hence  are  not 
subject  to  any  strict  system  of  conservation,  and  have  been  much 
damaged  by  indiscriminate  fellings.  The  hills  are  mentioned  in  ancient 
Hindu  literature  as  the  place  of  Maikala  Rishi's  penance,  though 
Yyasa,  Bhrigu,  Agastya,  and  other  sages  are  also  credited  with  having 
meditated  in  the  forests.  Their  greatest  claim  to  sanctity  lies,  however, 
in  the  presence  upon  them  of  the  sources  of  the  Narbada  and  Son 
rivers.  The  Markandeya  Purana  relates  how,  when  Siva  called  succes- 
sively on  all  the  mountains  of  India  to  find  a  home  for  the  Narbada, 
only  Maikala  offered  to  receive  her,  thus  gaining  undying  fame  ;  and 
hence  the  Narbada  is  often  called  Maikala-Kanya,  or  '  daughter  of 
Maikala.'  The  Mahanadi  and  Johilla,  as  well  as  many  minor  streams, 
also  have  their  sources  in  these  hills.  Local  tradition  relates  that  in 
the  fourth  and  fifth  centuries  a.  d.,  during  the  Gupta  rule,  this  plateau 
was  highly  populated ;  and  the  Ramayana  and  the  Puranas  mention 
the  Mekhalas  as  a  tribe  of  the  Vindhya  range,  the  former  work  placing 
them  next  the  Utkalas  or  people  of  Orissa.  The  Rewah  State  has 
lately  begun  to  open  up  the  plateau.  Iron  ore  is  met  with  in  some 
quantity,  and  is  still  worked  at  about  twenty  villages  to  supply  the 
local  demand. 

Mailan. — Hill  in  the  Surguja  State,  Central  Provinces,  situated  in 
230  31'  N.  and  830  37'  E.,  and  rising  to  a  height  of  4,024  feet  above 
sea-level. 

Mailar. — Village  in  the  Hadagalli  taluk  of  Bellary  District,  Madras, 
situated  in  140  48'  N.  and  750  42'  E.  Population  (1901),  1,722.  It  is 
famous  throughout  the  District  for  the  annual  festival  held  at  its  temple 
every  February,  at  which  a  cryptic  sentence  containing  a  prophecy 
(karanikani)  regarding  the  prospects  of  the  coming  year  is  uttered. 

The  temple  is  dedicated  to  Siva  in  his  form  of  Mallari.  The  story 
is  that  a  demon  called  Mallasura  ('the  demon  Malla')  and  his  brother, 
having  by  severe  penances  extracted  from  Brahma  a  promise  that  they 
should  never  be  harmed  by  any  being  in  any  form  then  existing,  began 
to  harass  the  rishis.  The  gods  were  appealed  to  ;  and  Siva  put  on 
a  new  form,  so  as  to  evade  Brahma's  promise,  and  taking  with  him 
forces  to  the  number  of  seven  crores,  also  in  new  forms  (such  as  dogs) 
which  had  never  before  served  in  an  arm)',  warred  with  Mallasura  and 
his  brother  for  ten  long  days  and  at  length  slew  them  both  with  his 
bow  and  overcame  their  followers.  The  gods  and  rishis  were  in 
transports  at  his  triumph,  and  joined  in  foretelling  unbroken  prosperity 
as  the  fruit  of  it.  The  ceremonies  and  rites  at  the  festival  form 
a  curious  sort  of  miracle-play  representative  of  this  war  in  heaven 
and  its  result.      The  pilgrims  to  the  festival  go  about  shouting  Elukoti  ' 


MAILOG  31 

Ehtkoti !  ('seven  crores  ! ')  instead  of  the  name  of  the  god  as  usual  : 
and  the  goravas,  the  special  name  for  the  men  (and  women)  who  have 
dedicated  themselves  to  this  temple  in  the  curious  manner  prevalent  in 
the  western  taluks,  dress  themselves  up  in  blankets  and  run  about  on 
all  fours,  barking  and  pretending  that  they  are  Siva's  army  of  dogs. 
After  residing  for  ten  days,  the  period  during  which  Siva  fought  with 
Mallasura  and  his  brother,  on  a  hillock  outside  the  village,  the  god 
returns.  He  is  met  half-way  by  the  goddess,  his  wife,  who  comes  to 
congratulate  him  on  his  success,  and  the  two  remain  for  some  time  at 
the  place  of  meeting.  The  expectation  of  good  times  to  follow  the 
victory  is  represented  by  the  prophecy  or  kdranikam.  It  is  pronounced 
on  this  tenth  day,  and  all  the  thousands  of  people  present  crowd  round 
the  place  where  the  god  and  goddess  have  halted.  A  huge  wooden 
bow,  about  10  feet  long,  symbolic  of  that  with  which  Siva  slew  Mall- 
asura, is  brought  and  placed  on  end.  A  Kuruba  (the  same  man  has 
performed  the  ceremony  for  many  years  in  succession)  who  has  fasted 
for  the  past  week  steps  forward  and  receives  the  benediction  of  the 
temple  manager.  He  then  climbs  partly  up  the  bow,  being  supported 
by  those  nearest  him.  For  a  minute  or  two  he  looks  in  a  rapt  manner 
to  the  four  points  of  the  compass,  then  begins  shuddering  and  trembling 
as  a  sign  that  the  divine  afflatus  is  upon  him,  and  calls  out  '  Silence  ! ' 
The  most  extraordinary  and  complete  silence  immediately  falls  upon 
the  great  crowd  of  pilgrims,  every  one  waiting  anxiously  for  the 
prophecy.  After  another  minute's  pause  and  again  gazing  upwards 
to  the  heavens,  the  Kuruba  pronounces  the  word  or  sentence  which 
foretells  the  fate  of  the  coming  year,  invariably  following  it  with  the 
word  Parak!  meaning  '  Hark  ye,'  or  'Take  ye  note.'  It  is  stated  that 
in  the  year  before  the  Mutiny  the  prophecy  was  '  they  have  risen  against 
the  white-ants.'  Latterly  the  sentence  has  either  been  of  exceedingly 
cryptic  meaning,  or  has  related  to  the  prospects  of  the  crops. 

Mailog  (Ma/i/og).— One  of  the  Simla  Hill  States,  Punjab,  lying 
between  300  52'  and  310  5'  N.  and  760  52'  and  760  58'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  43  square  miles.  Population  (1901),  8,968.  Patta,  its  capital, 
lies  30  miles  south-west  of  Simla  station,  at  the  foot  of  the  Kasauli  hill. 
The  chiefs  of  Mailog  came  from  Ajodhya.  The  State  used  to  pay 
tribute  to  the  Mughal  emperors  through  Bilaspur,  and  with  that  State 
was  occupied  by  the  Gurkhas  between  1805  and  181 5.  In  the  latter 
year,  on  the  expulsion  of  the  Gurkhas,  the  Thakur  received  a  sanad 
from  the  British  Government  confirming  him  in  the  possession  of  the 
State.  Thakur  Raghunath  Chand  succeeded  in  1880  and  obtained  the 
title  of  Rana.  in  1898.  On  his  death  in  1902  he  was  succeeded  by  his 
minor  son,  Thakur  Durga  Chand,  and  the  State  is  now  administered 
by  a  council  of  four  members.  The  State  has  a  revenue  of  Rs.  20,000, 
out  of  which  Rs.  1,440  is  paid  as  tribute. 


32  MAIL  SI 

Mailsi. —  TaKsll  of  Multan  District,  Punjab,  lying  between  29°  35' 
and  300  19'  N.  and  710  45'  and  720  52'  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,658  square 
miles.  Its  long  southern  boundary  is  formed  by  the  Sutlej,  which 
periodically  floods  the  lowland  along  its  bank.  Between  the  lowlands 
and  the  still  uncultivated  Bar  lies  a  tract  of  country  irrigated  by  inun- 
dation canals  from  the  Sutlej.  The  population  in  1901  was  109,727, 
compared  with  106,050  in  1891.  It  contains  332  villages,  including 
Mailsi,  the  head-quarters.  The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  2-1  lakhs. 

Maimana. — Head-quarters  of  the  district  of  the  same  name  in 
Afghan-Turkistan,  situated  in  350  55'  N.  and  640  46'  E.;  2,860  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  town,  which  is  a  large  one  as  far  as  area  is  concerned, 
the  circuit  of  its  walls  equalling  that  of  Herat,  comprises  about  3,000 
houses  and  233  shops,  but  has  a  generally  deserted  and  decayed  look. 
There  are  no  important  industries,  the  manufactures  being  limited  to 
barak  and  kurk  (both  woollen  fabrics),  and  a  coarse  blue  cotton  cloth. 
The  principal  articles  of  trade  are  Bokhara  and  Meshed  silk,  Russian 
leather,  and  printed  cotton  goods,  English  cotton  cloth,  velvets,  tea, 
indigo,  and  hardware ;  and  the  usual  agricultural  products  of  the 
country — wheat,  barley,  tobacco,  and  dried  fruits.  Maimana  derives 
such  importance  as  it  possesses  from  being  the  place  of  exchange  for 
goods  brought  from  Herat,  Kandahar^  and  Meshed  on  one  side,  from 
Kabul  and  Balkh  on  another,  and  from  Bokhara  and  Andkhui  on  the 
third.  The  population  is  chiefly  Uzbeg,  but  representatives  of  every 
race  in  Central  Asia  and  Afghanistan  are  to  be  found  in  the  bazars. 
Until  the  reign  of  AmTr  Abdur  Rahman  Khan,  Maimana  maintained 
a  semi-independence  under  its  own  chiefs;  but  in  1883-4  the  AmTr 
dispatched  a  force  to  bring  it  under  subjection,  and  Dilawar  Khan,  the 
chief,  surrendered  and  was  sent  to  Kabul.  The  Amir  at  first  appointed 
a  member  of  the  chiefs  family  as  Wall,  with  very  restricted  powers,  the 
real  control  resting  in  the  hands  of  an  Afghan  Resident.  In  1892  the 
tribal  levies  and  inhabitants  of  the  Maimana  district  broke  into 
rebellion,  which  Abdur  Rahman  soon  suppressed ;  the  Wall  was 
removed,  and  Maimana  has  since  been  treated  as  an  ordinary  Afghan 
district. 

Maimansingh.  —  District,  subdivision,  and  town  in  Eastern  Bengal 
and  Assam.     See  Mymensingh. 

Maindargi. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluka  of  the  same  name  in  the 
Kurandvad  State,  Bombay,  situated  in  170  28'  X.  and  76°  20'  E. 
Population  (1901),  6,153.  It  is  administered  as  a  municipality,  with 
an  income  of  about  Rs.  400.  Weaving  of  coarse  cloth  and  blankets 
is  carried  on. 

Maingkaing.  —  North-eastern  township  of  the  Upper  Chindwin 
District,  Upper  Burma,  comprising  the  basin  of  the  Uyu  river,  and 


MAINPURI  DISTRICT  33 

lying  between  24°  22  and  250  480  N.  and  94'  41'  and  96°  20'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  4,665  square  miles.  The  population,  which  is  almost  wholly 
Shan,  amounted  approximately  to  11,000  in  1891,  and  to  23,303  in 
1901,  distributed  in  248  villages.  Maingkaing  (population,  470),  on 
the  Uyu  river,  about  30  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  the  head-quarters. 
The  population  is  confined  to  the  banks  of  the  Uyu  and  a  few  of  its 
tributaries.  Except  for  a  few  patches  of  level  ground  near  the  Uyu, 
the  whole  country  is  a  maze  of  hills.  The  greater  part  of  the  township 
is  dense  jungle,  and  is  exceedingly  unhealthy.  The  area  cultivated  in 
1903-4  was  29  square  miles,  and  the  land  revenue  and  thathameda 
amounted  to  Rs.  39,000. 

Maini. — Town  in  the  Khatao  taluka  of  Satara  District,  Bombay. 
See  Mayni. 

Mainpat. — -A  magnificent  table-land  in  the  Surguja  State,  Central 
Provinces,  18  miles  long  and  6  to  8  miles  broad,  lying  between  220  46' 
and  220  54'  N.  and  830  8'  and  830  24'  E.  It  rises  to  a  height  of  3,781 
feet  above  the  sea  and  forms  the  southern  barrier  of  the  State.  From 
the  southern  face  of  the  plateau,  which  is  mainly  composed  of  gneiss 
and  ironstone,  long  spurs  strike  out  into  the  plains  of  Udaipur,  while 
the  northern  side  is  a  massive  wall  of  sandstone,  indented  like  a  coast- 
line with  isolated  bluffs  standing  up  in  front  of  the  cliffs  from  which 
they  have  been  parted.  The  plateau  is  well  watered  throughout,  and 
affords,  during  the  summer  months,  abundant  grazing  for  the  cattle  of 
Mirzapur  and  Bihar. 

Mainpuri  District. — District  in  the  Agra  Division,  United  Pro- 
vinces, lying  between  260  53'  and  270  31'  N.  and  780  27'  and  790  26'  E., 
with  an  area  of  1,675  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Etah  ;  on  the  east  by  Farrukhabad  ;  on  the  south  by  Etawah  and  Agra; 
and  on  the  west  by  Agra  and  Etah.  The  whole  District  forms  a  level 
plain,  and  variations  in  its  physical  features  are  chiefly  due  to  the  rivers 
which  flow  across  it  or  along  its  boundaries,  generally  . 

from   north-west   to  south-east.     The  Jumna,  which  aspects, 

forms  part  of  the  southern  boundary,  is  fringed  by 
deep  ravines,  extending  two  miles  from  the  river,  incapable  of  culti- 
vation, but  affording  good  pasturage  for  cattle,  as  well  as  safe  retreats 
for  the  lawless  herdsmen  or  Ahirs.  North-east  flow,  in  succession,  the 
Sirsa,  the  Aganga,  the  Sengar,  the  Arind  or  Rind,  the  Isan,  and  the 
Kali  NadI  (East),  which  last  forms  the  greater  part  of  the  northern 
boundary.  A  well-defined  sandy  ridge  lies  in  the  west  of  the  District, 
and  a  range  of  sandhills  follows  the  course  of  the  Kali  XadT,  a  little 
inland.  Shallow  lakes  or  marshes  abound  over  the  whole  area,  but  are 
most  common  in  the  central  table-land,  in  which  are  many  large 
stretches  of  barren  soil  called  mar. 

The  soil  consists  entirely  of  Gangetic  alluvium  ;  but  katikar  is  abun- 


34  MAINPURI  DISTRICT 

dant,  both  in  nodular  and  block  form.     Saline  efflorescences  occur  in 
many  parts. 

The  flora  presents  no  peculiarities.  The  District  is  well  wooded,  and 
extensive  groves  of  mango  and  shisham  {Dalbergia  Sissoo)  abound. 
The  great  d/idk  jungles  (Butea  frondosa)  which  formerly  studded  the 
District  have  been  largely  cut  away.  Babul  [Acacia  arabica)  is  common. 
The  weed  baisuri  {Phtchea  laticeolata)  is  a  pest  in  the  west,  and  ka?is 
(Saccharinn  spontaneum)  is  sometimes  troublesome  in  the  sandy  soil 
to  the  north-east. 

There  are  few  wild  animals  in  the  District.  Antelope  occur  in  some 
numbers,  and  nilgai  in  the  dhak  jungles.  Leopards  and  hyenas  are 
found  in  the  Jumna  ravines,  and  wolves  everywhere.  Pigeons,  water- 
fowl, and  quail  are  common.  Fish  are  plentiful,  and  the  right  of  fishing 
in  the  rivers  and  tanks  is  often  valuable. 

The  climate  of  Mainpurl  is  that  of  the  Doab  generally.  It  is  hot, 
but  not  excessively  sultry  during  the  summer  months.  The  annual 
rainfall  averages  31  inches,  and  the  tract  near  the  Jumna  receives 
slightly  more  than  the  rest.  Variations  from  year  to  year  are  con- 
siderable. 

Nothing  definite  is  known  of  the  early  history  of  Mainpurl,  though 
mounds  concealing  ancient  ruins  are  common.  A  few  places  are,  as 
usual,  connected  with  episodes  in  the  Mahabharata. 
The  first  precise  notice  of  the  District,  however,  is 
found  in  the  records  of  its  Muhammadan  invaders.  In  1194  Raprl 
was  made  the  seat  of  a  Musalman  governor,  and  continued  to  be 
the  local  head-quarters  under  many  successive  dynasties.  During  the 
vigorous  rule  of  Sultan  Bahlol  (1450-88)  Mainpurl  and  Etawah  formed 
a  debatable  ground  between  the  powers  of  Delhi  and  Jaunpur,  to  both 
of  which  they  supplied  mercenary  forces.  After  the  firm  establishment 
of  the  LodI  princes,  Raprl  remained  in  their  hands  until  the  invasion  of 
the  Mughals.  Babar  occupied  it  in  1526,  and  Etawah  also  came  into 
his  hands  without  a  blow.  Raprl  was  wrested  from  the  Mughals  for 
a  while  by  the  Afghan,  Kutb  Khan,  son  of  Sher  Shah,  who  adorned  it 
with  many  noble  buildings,  the  remains  of  which  still  exist.  On  the 
return  of  Humayun,  the  Mughals  once  more  occupied  Mainpurl. 
Akbar  included  it  in  the  sarkars  of  Kanauj  and  Agra.  The  same 
vigorous  ruler  also  led  an  expedition  into  the  District  for  the  purpose 
of  suppressing  the  robber  tribes  by  whom  it  was  infested.  During  the 
long  ascendancy  of  the  line  of  Babar  the  Musalmans  made  little 
advance  in  Mainpurl.  A  few  Muhammadan  families  obtained  posses- 
sions in  the  District,  but  a  very  small  proportion  of  the  natives  accepted 
the  faith  of  Islam.  Under  the  successors  of  Akbar  Raprl  fell  into 
comparative  insignificance,  and  the  surrounding  country  became  sub- 
ordinate to  Etawah. 


POPULATION  35 

Like  the  rest  of  the  Central  Doab,  Mainpurl  passed  towards  the  end 

of  the  eighteenth  century  into  the  power  of  the  Marathas,  and  finally 
became  a  portion  of  the  province  of  Oudh.  When  the  region  was 
ceded  to  the  British  by  the  Nawab  of  Oudh  in  1801,  Mainpurl  was 
made  the  head-quarters  of  the  extensive  District  of  Etawah.  With  the 
exception  of  a  raid  by  Holkar  in  1804,  which  was  repulsed  by  the 
provincial  militia,  there  are  no  events  of  importance  to  recount  during 
the  early  years  of  British  supremacy.  Its  unwieldy  size  was  gradually 
reduced  by  the  formation  of  Etah  and  Etawah  as  separate  Districts. 
The  construction  of  the  Ganges  Canal  was  the  only  striking  event 
between  the  cession  and  the  Mutiny  of  1857. 

News  of  the  outbreak  at  Meerut  reached  Mainpurl  on  May  12  ;  and 
on  the  22nd,  after  tidings  of  the  Aligarh  revolt  had  arrived  at  the 
station,  the  9th  Infantry  rose  in  open  mutiny.  The  few  Europeans  at 
Mainpuri  gallantly  defended  the  town  till  the  29th,  when  the  arrival 
of  the  Jhansi  rebels  made  it  necessary  to  abandon  the  District  entirely. 
The  Magistrate  and  his  party  were  accompanied  as  far  as  Shikohabad 
by  the  Gwalior  troopers,  who  then  refused  to  obey  orders,  but  quietly 
rode  off  home  without  molesting  their  officers.  The  fugitives  reached 
Agra  in  safety.  Next  day  the  Jhansi  force  attacked  the  town,  but  was 
beaten  off  by  the  well-disposed  inhabitants.  The  District  remained  in 
the  hands  of  the  rebel  Raja  of  Mainpuri,  who  held  it  till  the  re- 
occupation,  when  he  quietly  surrendered  himself,  and  order  was  at 
once  restored. 

There  are  8  towns  and  1,380  villages.  Population  has  fluctuated 
during  the  last  thirty  years.  Between  1881  and  1891  excessive  floods 
threw  much  land  out  of  cultivation ;  but  the  seasons 
in  the  following  decade  were  more  favourable.  The 
number  of  inhabitants  at  the  last  four  enumerations  was:  (1872) 
765,845,  (1881)  801,216,  (1891)  762,163,  and  (1901)  829,357.  The 
density  of  population  is  below  the  average  of  the  western  plain.  The 
District  is  divided  into  five  talmls — Mainpuri,  Bhongaon,  Karhal, 
Shikohabad,  and  Mustafabad — the  head-quarters  of  which  (except 
that  of  Mustafabad,  which  is  at  Jasrana)  are  at  places  of  the  same 
names.  The  principal  town  is  the  municipality  of  Mainpuri.  The 
table  on  the  next  page  gives  the  chief  statistics  of  population  in  1901. 

About  93  per  cent,  of  the  population  are  Hindus,  and  less  than  6  per 
cent.  Musalmans,  a  very  low  proportion  for  the  United  Provinces. 
Western  Hindi  is  spoken  almost  universally,  the  prevailing  dialect 
being  Braj. 

The  most  numerous  Hindu  castes  are  Ahirs  (graziers  and  culti- 
vators), 143,000;  Chamars  (tanners  and  labourers),  107.000:  Kachhls 
(cultivators),  68,000  :  Brahmans,  68,000  ;  and  Rajputs,  6S,ooo.  Among 
Musalmans   the    chief  tribes   or  castes  are  Shaikhs,   8,100:    Pathans, 


36 


MAINPURI  DISTRICT 


6,600;  Fakirs,  5,700;  and  Behnas  (cotton-carders),  5,200.  Agriculture 
supports  70  per  cent,  of  the  population,  a  high  proportion ;  general 
labour  6  per  cent.,  and  personal  service  6  per  cent. 


Tahsil. 

V 

u 
it 

a 

"£ 

"lis 

u 

< 

Number  of 

c 

0 

"3 
a. 
0 

PL, 

U 
W    -" 

§1 
3* 

S.& 

O  Ul 
PL, 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 

population  be- 
tween 1891 
and  1901. 

Number  of 

persons  able  to 

read  and 

write. 

C 
O 

H 

3 
1 

1 
2 
1 

> 

Mainpuri     . 
Bhongaon   . 
Karhal 
Shikohabad 
Mustafabad 

District  total 

386 

459 
218 
294 
3i8 

2  49 
39° 
189 

287 
265 

183,180 

226.940 

98,398 

1 57.659 
163,180 

475 
494 
451 
53r> 
513 

+    7-0 
+  16-2 

-  1.9 

+  12>5 
+    5-i 

5,327 
5.832 
2.386 

3,792 
2,241 

1,675 

S 

1,380 

829,357 

495 

+    8-8 

19,578 

Agriculture. 


There  were  only  308  native  Christians  in  1901,  of  whom  196.  were 
Methodists  and  45  Presbyterians.  The  American  Presbyterian  Church 
commenced  work  here  in  1843. 

The  District  is  divided  by  its  rivers  into  three  tracts  of  varying 
qualities.  On  the  north-east  the  area  between  the  Isan  and  the  Kali 
Nadi  is  composed  of  light  sandy  soil  called  b/iur, 
with  here  and  there  loam,  especially  near  the  west, 
where  these  two  rivers  are  farthest  apart.  Between  the  Isan  and  Sirsa 
lies  the  garden  of  the  District,  a  rich  tract  of  fertile  loam,  interspersed 
with  many  shallow  lakes,  patches  of  barren  usar  land,  and  occasional 
jungle.  The  third  tract,  commencing  a  little  south  of  the  Sengar,  has 
some  sandy  stretches,  but  is  much  better  than  the  north-eastern  tract, 
and  as  far  as  the  Sirsa  little  inferior  to  the  central  tract.  South  of 
the  Sirsa  the  soil  deteriorates  ;  there  are  no  jhils  and  no  usar ;  the  land 
is  not  so  rich,  and  irrigation  is  scantier,  the  spring-level  sinking  rapidly 
as  the  Jumna  ravines  are  approached. 

The  District  contains  the  usual  tenures  of  the  Provinces,  but  zamhi- 
dari  and  pattidari  are  more  common  than  bhaiyachara  mahals.  There 
is  one  large  talukdari  estate  belonging  to  the  Raja,  of  Mainpuri,  which 
is  described  separately.  The  main  agricultural  statistics  are  given  on 
the  next  page,  in  square  miles. 

The  chief  food-crops,  with  the  area  under  each  (in  square  miles), 
are:  wheat  (220),  jowdr  (122),  barley  (no)  bajra  (100),  and  gram  (90). 
Poppy  and  cotton  are  the  most  important  non-food  crops,  covering 
28  and  39  square  miles  respectively. 

No  improvements  can  be  noted  in  agricultural  practice,  except  the 
increase  in  the  area  double  cropped,  and  in  the  area  under  wheat, 
maize,  and  poppy.  A  steady  demand  exists  for  advances  under  the 
Agriculturists'  and  Land  Improvement  Loans  Acts,  which  aggregated 
1*3  lakhs  during  the  ten  years  ending   1900.     One-third  of  this  sum 


TRADE  AND  COMMUNICATIONS 


was  advanced  in  the  famine  year  1896-7.  The  loans  in  1903  4 
amounted  to  Rs.  4,500.  In  the  central  and  part  of  the  south-western 
tract  drainage  was  defective  and  has  recently  been  improved,  especially 
in  the  latter,  where  the  Bhognlpur  branch  of  the  Lower  Ganges  Canal 
had  caused  some  obstruction. 


Tahstl. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated.      Cultivable 

h                    waste. 

Mainpurl   . 
Bhongaon . 
Karhal 
Shikohabad 
Mustafabad 

Total 

386 

459 
218 

294 

3i8 

179 

260 

no 
196 

181 

152 
205 
101 
l6o 
IOI 

50 
61 

27 

44 
26 

1,675 

926 

719 

208 

Note. — These  figures  are  for  various  years  from  1900  to  1903,  later  figures 
not  being  available. 

The  cattle  are  of  the  ordinary  inferior  type,  though  a  little  success 
has  been  achieved  in  improving  the  strain  by  imported  bulls.  Some- 
thing has  also  been  done  to  improve  the  breed  of  horses,  and  stallions 
have  been  kept  here  for  many  years.  In  1870  an  attempt  was  made, 
without  success,  to  improve  the  breed  of  sheep.  The  best  goats  are 
imported  from  west  of  the  Jumna.     Sirsaganj  is  the  great  cattle  market. 

Mainpurl  is  well  supplied  by  canal-irrigation  in  almost  every  portion, 
and  900  square  miles  are  commanded.  In  the  latest  years  for  which 
statistics  are  available,  out  of  719  square  miles  irrigated  canals  supplied 
266.  The  central  tract  is  served  by  the  Cawnpore  and  Etawah  branches 
of  the  Lower  Ganges  Canal,  which  originally  formed  part  of  the  L^pper 
Ganges  Canal.  The  tract  north-east  of  the  Isan  is  served  by  the  Bewar 
branch,  and  part  of  that  south-west  of  the  Sengar  and  Sirsa  by  the 
Bhognlpur  branch.  The  last  tract  is  perhaps  that  in  which  irrigation 
is  most  defective.  Wells  supplied  396  square  miles,  and  other  sources, 
chiefly  small  streams,  57.  Towards  the  Jumna,  and  in  the  sandy  tracts, 
wells  cannot  be  constructed  easily. 

Kankar  is  found  abundantly  in  both  block  and  nodular  form.  The 
only  other  mineral  product  of  the  District  is  saltpetre,  which  is  largely 
manufactured  from  saline  efflorescences. 

The  District  has  few  arts  or  manufactures.  Glass  bangles  are  made 
from  reh.  Wood-carving  was  once  popular  in  many  parts,  including 
a  peculiar  variety  in  which  the  wood  is  inlaid  with 
brass   or   silver   wire. 

Shikohabad,  another  was  recently  built  at  Mainpurl, 
and  a  third  is  working  at  Sirsaganj.     Indigo  is  still  made  in  twenty- 
three  factories,  which  employ  about   1,000  hands. 

The  chief  exports  are  wheat  and  other  grains,  oilseeds,  hides,  and 
cotton  ;  and  the  imports  are  salt,  metals,  piece-goods,  sugar,  tobacco, 


Trade  and 

[here    is    one  cotton-gin   at  communications. 


38  MAWPURI  DISTRICT 

and  rice.  The  trade  is  largely  with  Cawnpore,  but  sugar  comes  from 
Rnhilkhand  and  tobacco  from  Farrukhabad.  Some  traffic  is  carried 
by  the  canal. 

The  East  Indian  Railway  crosses  the  south-western  corner,  and 
a  branch  line,  recently  constructed,  connects  Shikohabad  with  Mainpurl 
and  Farrukhabad,  thus  traversing  the  District  from  west  to  east.  There 
are  197  miles  of  metalled  and  200  miles  of  unmetalled  roads.  The 
Public  Works  department  has  charge  of  the  former ;  the  cost  of  all 
but  83  miles  of  the  metalled  and  of  all  the  unmetalled  roads  is  met 
from  Local  funds.  Avenues  of  trees  are  maintained  on  102  miles. 
Few  Districts  in  the  Provinces  are  so  well  supplied  with  roads,  and 
only  in  the  south-west  are  communications  defective.  The  grand 
trunk  road  passes  through  the  north-west,  with  a  branch  to  Agra 
through  Mainpurl  town,  which  is  also  connected  by  metalled  roads 
with  the  surrounding  Districts. 

Mainpurl  suffered  severely  in  1837-8,  when  extensive  remissions  of 
revenue  were  necessary,  but  nothing  more  was  done  to  relieve  distress. 
.  In  1 860-1  relief  wrorks  were  opened  and  4,000  able- 

bodied  persons  worked  daily,  besides  4,600  who 
received  gratuitous  relief.  In  1868  the  situation  was  saved  by  timely 
rain,  and  grain  was  actually  exported.  Distress  was  felt  in  1877-8, 
especially  in  the  south-west  of  the  District,  where  canal-irrigation  was 
not  available,  and  relief  works  had  to  be  opened.  In  1896-7  prices 
were  high,  but  2,000  temporary  wells  were  made  from  Government 
advances,  besides  12,000  constructed  from  private  capital,  and  distress 
was  confined  to  the  immigrants  from  Rajputana.  A  test  work  attracted 
only  a  daily  average  of  100  persons.  The  four  branches  of  the  canal 
now  make  the  District  practically  immune. 

The  ordinary  District  staff  includes  the  Collector,  and  four  Deputy- 
Collectors  recruited  in  India.    There  is  a  tahslldar  at  the  head-quarters 

.  ,    .  .        .         of  each  tahsll.      Mainpurl  is  also  the  head-quarters 
Administration.      r         „  „  .       .  .....  r 

01  an  Executive  Engineer  in  charge  of  a  division  of 

the  Lower  Ganges  Canal,  and  of  an  officer  of  the  Opium  department. 

There  are  two  regular  Munsifs.  The  District  and  Sessions  Judge 
of  Mainpurl  and  the  Sub-Judge  exercise  jurisdiction  also  over  Etawah 
District.  Crime  is  of  the  usual  nature,  but  outbreaks  of  dacoity  are 
frequent.  Cattle-theft  is  not  uncommon,  and  offences  against  the 
opium  law  are  numerous.  Mainpurl  has  long  held  a  bad  reputation 
for  female  infanticide,  and  21,082  persons  were  still  under  surveillance  • 
in  1904,  by  far  the  largest  number  in  any  District  of  the  United 
Provinces. 

In  1 80 1  Mainpuri  became  the  head-quarters  of  the  District  of 
Etawah,  which  then  included,  besides  the  present  District,  parts 
of   Farrukhabad,  Agra,   Etah,  and   Etawah.     In   1803  large  additions 


ADMINISTRATION  39 

were  made,  and  in  1824  four  subdivisions  were  formed,  the  Mainpuri 
portion  remaining  under  the  Collector  of  Etawah,  who  still  resided 
at  Mainpuri.  The  District  began  to  take  its  present  form  in  1837. 
Early  settlements  were  for  short  periods,  and  were  based  on  the  records 
of  previous  collections  and  on  a  system  of  competition,  preference, 
however,  being  given  to  the  hereditary  zamindars,  if  they  came  forward. 
The  first  regular  settlement  was  made  in  1839-40,  when  a  revenue 
of  12-5  lakhs  was  fixed.  This  assessment  was,  as  it  turned  out, 
excessive,  owing  to  the  failure  to  allow  for  the  after-effects  of  the 
famine  of  1837-8;  and  it  was  reduced  in  1845-6  to  10-5  lakhs,  rising 
gradually  to  11-4  lakhs  in  1850-1.  The  next  settlement  was  made 
between  1866  and  1873.  Soils  were  marked  off  on  the  village  map  by 
actual  inspection,  and  the  rents  payable  for  each  class  of  soil  were 
ascertained.  The  revenue  assessed  amounted  to  rather  less  than  halt 
the  '  assets '  calculated  by  applying  these  rates,  and  was  fixed  at 
12-8  lakhs.  In  1877,  owing  to  floods,  mainly  along  the  Kali  Nadi,  the 
settlement  of  seventy  villages  was  revised.  Between  1883  and  1887 
serious  injury  from  floods  again  occurred  along  the  Kali  Nadi,  and 
kaus  grass  spread,  while  in  the  south  the  new  Bhognipur  branch  of 
the  canal  had  caused  damage.  The  revenue  was  reduced  by  about 
Rs.  19,000.  The  present  demand  falls  at  an  incidence  of  Rs.  1-5 
per  acre,  varying  from  little  more  than  8  annas  to  nearly  Rs.  1-12. 
A   revision  of  settlement  has  just   been   completed. 

Collections    on   account    of   land    revenue    and    total    revenue    are 
given  below,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1880-1. 

1 890- 1. 

1900-1.         1903-4- 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

12,60 
14,46 

12,23 
i6,95 

12,74          12,44 
i/,9i           lS>3i 

Besides  the  single  municipality  of  Mainpuri,  there  are  seven  towns 
administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856.  Outside  these,  local  affairs  are 
managed  by  the  District  board,  which  has  an  income  of  about  a  lakh, 
chiefly  derived  from  rates.  In  1903-4  the  largest  item  of  expenditure 
was  Rs.  81,000  on  roads  and  buildings. 

The  District  Superintendent  of  police  has  a  force  of  4  inspectors, 
83  subordinate  officers,  and  340  men,  besides  102  municipal  and  town 
police,  and  1,859  rural  and  road  police.  A  sub-inspector  and  1 1  head 
constables  are  specially  maintained  in  connexion  with  the  surveillance 
of  villages  where  female  infanticide  is  believed  to  be  prevalent.  There 
are  15  police  stations.  The  District  jail  contained  a  daily  average 
of  293  prisoners  in  1903. 

Mainpuri  takes  a  very  low  place  in  respect  of  literacy.  In  1901  only 
2-4  per  cent,  of   the   population  (4-2    males  and  0-2   females)  could 


4o  MAINPURI  DISTRICT 

read  and  write.  The  number  of  public  schools  fell  from  151  in  1881 
to  133  in  1 90 1,  but  the  number  of  pupils  rose  from  4,146  to  4,851. 
In  1903-4  there  were  153  public  schools  with  5,151  pupils,  of  whom 
173  were  girls,  besides  82  private  schools  with  811  pupils.  Three 
of  the  public  schools  are  managed  by  Government,  and  most  of  the 
remainder  by  the  District  or  municipal  boards.  In  1903-4,  out  of  a 
total  expenditure  on  education  of  Rs.  38,000,  Local  funds  contributed 
Rs.  32,000  and  fees  Rs.  3,000. 

There  are  8  hospitals  and  dispensaries,  with  accommodation  for 
36  in-patients.  In  1903  the  number  of  cases  treated  was  47,000,  of 
whom  772  were  in-patients,  and  1,920  operations  were  performed. 
The  expenditure  in  the  same  year  was  Rs.  8,200,  chiefly  met  from 
Local  funds. 

About  25,000  persons  were  successfully  vaccinated  in  1903-4,  repre- 
senting 30  per  1,000  of  population.  Vaccination  is  compulsory  only 
in  the  municipality  of  Mainpurl. 

I  M.  A.  McConaghey  and  D.  M.  Smeaton,  Settlement  Report  (1875)  : 
District  Gazetteer  (1876,  under  revision).] 

Mainpuri  Tahsil. — Central  northern  tahsil  of  Mainpuri  District, 
United  Provinces,  comprising  the  parganas  of  Mainpuri,  Ghiror,  and 
Kuraull,  and  lying  between  270  5'  and  270  28'  N.  and  780  42'  and 
790  5"  E.,  with  an  area  of  386  square  miles.  Population  increased 
from  171,152  in  1891  to  183,180  in  1901.  There  are  249  villages  and 
three  towns,  Mainpuri  (population,  19,000),  the  District  and  tahsil 
head-quarters,  being  the  largest.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  2,24,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  36,000.  The  density  of 
population,  475  persons  per  square  mile,  is  slightly  below  the  District 
average.  The  tahsil  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Kali  NadI,  and 
is  also  crossed  by  the  Isan  and  its  tributary  the  Kaknadiya,  and  by  the 
Arind.  Near  the  Kali  Nadi  lies  a  considerable  area  of  sandy  soil  or 
bhitr ;  but  most  of  the  tahsil  consists  of  fertile  loam,  in  which  some 
large  swamps  or  jl/ils,  now  partly  drained,  and  patches  of  usar  or 
barren  land  alone  break  the  uniformly  rich  cultivation.  Three  branches 
of  the  Lower  Ganges  Canal  provide  ample  means  of  irrigation.  In 
1 900-1  the  area  under  cultivation  was  179  square  miles,  of  which  152 
were  irrigated.  Wells  supply  about  half  the  irrigated  area,  canals  one- 
third,  and  tanks  ox  j hi  Is  most  of  the  remainder. 

Mainpuri  Estate.— A  lalukdari  estate  in  the  District  of  the  same 
name,  United  Provinces,  with  an  area  of  89  square  miles.  The  rent- 
roll  for  1903-4  amounted  to  more  than  a  lakh,  and  the  revenue  and 
cesses  payable  to  Government  by  the  estate  were  Rs.  58,000.  The 
Rnja  of  Mainpuri  is  regarded  as  the  head  of  the  Chauhan  Rajputs  in 
the  Doab,  He  traces  descent  to  the  renowned  Prithwl  Raj  of  Delhi, 
who  fell   before   Muhammad  Ghorl  in    1 192.     According  to  tradition, 


MAINPURI  TOWN  41 

the  Chauhans  settled  near  Bhongaon  early  in  the  fourteenth  century. 
It  is  probable  that  the  Rai  Pratap,  mentioned  by  the  Muhammadan 
historians  as  occupying  part  of  this  District  towards  the  close  of  the 
fifteenth  century,  was  a  member  of  the  family.  Pratap  aided  Bahlol 
Lodi  in  his  wars  with  Jaunpur  and  was  confirmed  in  his  estates.  Jagat 
Man,  ninth  in  descent  from  Pratap,  founded  the  city  of  Mainpuri, 
which  was  extended  in  1  749  by  another  descendant.  During  the  rule 
of  the  Oudh  government,  towards  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
the  Raja  was  deprived  of  many  of  the  farms  he  had  previously  held  ; 
but  at  the  cession  to  the  British  a  large  tract  was  settled  with  him 
as  talukdar,  the  estate  being  sometimes  known  as  Manchana.  In  1840 
it  was  decided  that  settlement  should  be  made  with  the  subordinate 
proprietors  where  these  existed,  the  talukdar  receiving  a  certain  pro- 
portion of  the  rental  '  assets,'  but  being  excluded  from  management 
of  the  villages.  The  Raja  now  receives  this  allowance  from  133 
villages,  while  his  zamlndari  estate  comprises  75  villages.  In  the 
Mutiny  Raja  Tej  Singh  rebelled,  and  the  estate  was  confiscated  and 
conferred  on  his  uncle  Bhawani  Singh,  who  had  contested  the  title 
when  Tej  Singh  succeeded.  The  present  Raja,  Ram  Partab  Singh, 
is  a  son  of  Bhawani  Singh. 

Mainpuri  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  District  and  tahsll  of  the 
same  name,  United  Provinces,  situated  in  270  14'  N.  and  790  3'  E.,  at 
the  junction  of  metalled  roads  from  Agra,  Etawah,  Etah,  and  Fatehgarh, 
and  on  a  branch  of  the  East  Indian  Railway  recently  opened  from 
Shikohabad.  Population  (1901),  19,000.  The  town,  which  lies  south 
of  the  Isan  river,  is  made  up  of  two  parts,  Mainpuri  proper  and 
Muhkamganj,  lying  respectively  north  and  south  of  the  Agra  road. 
The  former  existed,  according  to  tradition,  in  the  days  of  the  Pandavas, 
while  another  fable  connects  an  image  known  as  Main  Deo  with  the 
name.  It  seems  to  have  been  of  no  importance  till  the  Chauhans 
migrated  here  from  Asauli  at  dates  ranging  from  the  thirteenth  to  the 
sixteenth  century,  according  to  different  versions.  The  town  contains 
a  fort,  composed  partly  of  brick  and  partly  of  mud,  belonging  to  the 
Raja.  Muhkamganj  was  founded  in  1803  by  Raja  Jaswant  Singh.  In 
the  Mutiny  the  place  was  occupied  by  the  Jhansi  rebels,  who  plundered 
and  burnt  the  civil  station,  but  were  beaten  off  when  the}'  attempted 
to  sack  the  town.  The  Agra  branch  of  the  grand  trunk  road  runs 
through  the  centre  and  forms  a  wide  street,  lined  on  either  side  by 
shops  which  constitute  the  principal  bazar.  Besides  a  tahslli  and 
dispensary,  the  town  contains  the  head-quarters  of  the  American 
Presbyterian  Mission,  a  large  sarai  and  grain  market  called  Raikesganj, 
after  the  Collector  who  built  it  about  1849,  and  a  fine  street  called 
I.aneganj,  after  another  Collector.  The  civil  station,  with  the  District 
offices   and   jail,  lies    north    of  the   Isan,  which   is  crossed   by  >tone 


42  MAINPURI  TOWN 

bridges.  Mainpuri  has  been  a  municipality  since  1866.  During  the 
ten  years  ending  1901  the  income  and  expenditure  averaged  Rs.  16,000. 
In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  22,000,  chiefly  from  octroi  (Rs.  16,000)  ; 
and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  25,000.  Trade  is  mainly  local,  but  may 
be  expected  to  expand  now  that  the  railway  is  opened.  The  place 
is  noted  for  the  production  of  articles  of  carved  wood  inlaid  with  brass 
wire.  A  steam  cotton-ginning  factory,  recently  opened,  employs  about 
100  hands.  The  municipality  maintains  two  schools  and  aids  two 
others,  with  322  pupils  in  1904.  There  are  also  a  District  and  tahsill 
schools,  and  a  Presbyterian  Mission  school. 

Maiskhal.  Island  off  the  coast  of  Chittagong  District,  Eastern 
Bengal  and  Assam,  lying  between  210  29'  and  210  45'  N.  and  910  50' 
and  910  58'  E.,  with  an  area  of  102  square  miles.  Population  (1901), 
24,228.  Through  the  centre  and  along  the  east  coast-line  rises  a  range 
of  low  hills  300  feet  high  ;  the  west  and  north  are  fringed  by  mangrove 
jungle  and  are  of  the  same  character  as  the  Sundarbans.  Among  the 
lulls  is  built  the  shrine  of  Adinath,  which  attracts  pilgrims  from  all 
parts  of  the  District.  The  greater  portion  of  the  island  belongs  to 
a  permanently  settled  estate. 

Mai sur.  -Native  State,  District,  taluk,  and  town.     See  Mysore. 

Maizar.  — Village  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Margha  river  in 
the  Madda  Khel  territory,  Northern  VVaziristan  Agency,  North-West 
Frontier  Province,  situated  in  32°  54'  N.  and  690  37'  E.  On  June  10, 
1897,  the  Madda  Khels  treacherously  attacked  the  Political  officer's 
escort,  and  shot  down  several  British  officers  and  sepoys  of  the  force 
under  the  walls  of  the  village.  A  punitive  expedition  was  dispatched, 
which  exacted  a  fine  of  Rs.  10,000,  besides  Rs.  9,000  as  compensation 
for  the  property  taken  in  the  attack,  and  the  surrender  of  six  of  the 
ringleaders. 

Majhaull. — Village  in  the  Deoria  tahsil  of  Gorakhpur  District, 
United  Provinces.     See  Salempur-Majhauli. 

Majhgawan. — Village  lands  in  the  Mau  tahsil  of  Banda  District, 
United  Provinces,  containing  the  town  of  Rajapur. 

Majitha. — Town  in  the  District  and  tahsil  of  Amritsar,  Punjab, 
situated  in  31°  46'  N.  and  740  58'  E.,  12  miles  north-east  of  Amritsar 
city.  The  main  branch  of  the  Bari  Doab  Canal  runs  between  Majitha 
and  the  village  of  Kathu  Nangal,  a  station  on  the  Amritsar  and 
Pathankot  Railway,  4  miles  to  the  north.  Population  (1901),  6,403. 
The  town  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  a  Gil  J  at  from  the  Malwa, 
named  Madu,  who  called  the  town  Madu  Jetha  after  his  eldest  son 
(Jetl/a).  To  the  Jat  clan  of  this  village  belonged  the  Majitha  Sardars, 
some  of  whom,  such  as  Sardars  Desa  Singh  and  Lehna  Singh,  held 
high  places  at  the  court  of  Ranjit  Singh.  The  municipality  was 
created   in  1867.     The  income  during  the  ten   years  ending  1902-3 


MAKHU 


43 


averaged  Rs.  3,700,  and  the  expenditure  Rs.  3,000.  In  1903-4  the 
income  was  Rs.  4,800,  chiefly  from  octroi ;  and  the  expenditure  was 
Rs.  4,700.  Some  carpets  are  manufactured,  but  the  town  is  not  of 
any  commercial  importance.  There  is  an  Anglo-vernacular  middle 
school  and  a  dispensary. 

Majuli. — Island  (or  char)  in  the  north  of  Sibsagar  District,  Assam, 
lying  between  260  45'  and  270  12'  N.  and  930  39'  and  940  35'  E., 
formed  by  the  diversion  of  the  Kherkutia  channel  from  the  main 
stream  of  the  Brahmaputra.  This  channel  subsequently  receives  the 
waters  of  the  Subansirl,  in  itself  a  large  river,  and  is  then  known  as 
the  Luhit  to  the  point  where  it  rejoins  the  parent  stream  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Dhansiri.  The  island  has  an  area  of  485  square  miles, 
with  a  population  (1901)  of  35,000,  and  is  the  site  "of  the  Auniati, 
Dakhinpat,  Garamur,  and  other  sattras,  or  priestly  colleges,  which 
are  held  in  great  reverence  by  the  Assamese.  The  Majuli  is  much 
exposed  to  flood  and  diluvium,  and  the  staple  crops  are  summer  rice 
and  mustard.  It  contains  numerous  streams,  lakes,  and  patches  of 
tree  forest  covered  with  beautiful  cane  brake,  and  the  general  effect  is 
very  picturesque.  The  island  has  but  one  road  and  no  town,  and  an 
old-world  air  pervades  the  place  which  savours  more  of  the  eighteenth 
than  the  twentieth  century. 

Makanpur. — Village  in  the  tahsil  of  Bilhaur,  Cawnpore  District, 
United  Provinces,  situated  in  260  54'  N.  and  790  59'  E.,  40  miles 
north-west  of  Cawnpore  city.  The  shrine  of  a  Musalman  saint,  named 
Shah  Madar,  who  had  originally  been  a  Jew,  attracts  a  large  number 
of  pilgrims  annually,  both  Musalman  and  Hindu,  the  latter  regarding 
the  saint  as  an  incarnation  of  the  god  Lakshmana.  In  addition  to  the 
religious  attractions  of  the  fair,  a  large  cattle-market  is  held,  at  which 
15,000  to  20,000  animals  of  all  kinds  are  offered  for  sale. 

Makhtal.—  Taluk  in  Mahbiibnagar  District,  Hyderabad  State,  with 
an  area  of  511  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901,  including  jaglrs, 
was  69,560,  compared  with  68,031  in  1891.  The  taluk  contains 
120  villages,  of  which  13  are  jagir,  and  Makhtal  (population,  4,476) 
is  the  head-quarters.  The  land  revenue  in  1901  amounted  to  i-8  lakhs. 
In  1905  the  taluk  was  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  some  villages  from 
Narayanpet,  but  lost  31  villages  to  Yadglr  in  Gulbarga.  The  town  of 
Narayanpet  is  now  included  in  this  taluk,  which  forms  the  borderland 
between  the  Carnatic  and  the  Telingana  country. 

Makhu.  — Town  in  the  Zira  tahsil  of  Ferozepore  District,  Punjab, 
situated  in  310  6'  N.  and  750  4'  E.,  30  miles  north-east  of  Ferozepore 
town.  Population  (1901),  1,355.  The  municipality  was  created  in 
1867.  The  income  during  the  ten  years  ending  1902-3  averaged 
Rs.  1,100,  and  the  expenditure  Rs.  1,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was 
Rs.  1,500,  chiefly  from  octroi  ;  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  1,000. 

VOL.  XVII.  D 


44  MAKRAT 

Makrai. — Feudatory  State  in  the  Central  Provinces,  lying  between 
2i°  58'  and  220  14'  N.  and  76°  57'  and  770  12'  E.,  within  the  Harda 
lahsil  of  Hoshangabad  District,  with  an  area  of  155  square  miles.  The 
State  contains  some  rich  villages  in  the  open  valley  of  the  Narbada  ; 
but  the  greater  part  of  it  is  situated  on  the  lower  slopes  of  the  Satpura 
range,  consisting  of  low  hills  covered  with  'forest,  of  which  teak,  say 
(Terminalia  tomenlosa),  and  tinsa  {Ougeinia  dalbergioides)  are  the 
principal  trees.  The  head-quarters  of  the  State  are  at  Makrai,  which 
contains  an  old  hill-fort,  and  is  15  miles  from  Bhiringi  station  and 
19  miles  from  Harda  on  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway.  The 
ruling  family,  who  are  Raj  Gonds,  claim  a  high  antiquity  of  descent 
and  a  jurisdiction  extending  in  former  times  over  the  whole  of  the 
Harda  tahsil.  There  is,  however,  no  historical  evidence  in  support  of 
their  pretensions,  and  all  that  is  known  is  that  they  were  deprived  by 
Sindhia  and  the  Peshwa  of  the  forest  tracts  of  Kalibhit  and  Charwa. 
The  present  chief,  Raja  Lachu  Shah,  alias  Bharat  Shah,  was  born  in 
1846  and  succeeded  in  1866.  He  was  temporarily  set  aside  for  mis- 
management in  1890,  but  reinstalled  in  1893,  when  he  appointed  a 
Diwan  with  the  approval  of  the  Chief  Commissioner.  The  population 
of  the  State  in  1901  was  13,035  persons,  showing  a  decrease  of  30  per 
cent,  in  the  previous  decade,  during  which  it  was  severely  affected  by 
famine.  Gonds  and  Korkiis  form  a  considerable  portion  of  the  popu- 
lation. In  1904  the  occupied  area  amounted  to  62  square  miles,  of 
which  54  were  under  crops.  The  cropped  area  is  said  to  have 
decreased  by  3,000  acres  since  1894.  Wheat  is  the  staple  crop,  and 
1'owar,  cotton,  and  gram  are  also  grown.  The  revenue  in  1904 
amounted  to  Rs.  62,000,  of  which  Rs.  43,000  was  derived  from  land, 
the  incidence  ot  land  revenue  being  Rs.  1-8  per  acre.  Other 
principal  sources  of  revenue  were  forests  (Rs.  5,500),  excise  (Rs.  5,000), 
and  law  and  justice  (Rs.  1,400).  The  expenditure  in  the  same  year 
was  Rs.  64,000,  of  which  Rs.  14,000  was  expended  in  the  maintenance 
of  the  ruling  family,  Rs.  6,100  on  administration,  Rs.  4,700  on  police, 
Rs.  1,600  on  education,  Rs.  1,700  on  medical  relief,  and  Rs.  9,000  on 
miscellaneous  items.  The  receipts  and  expenditure  during  the  five 
years  ending  1903  averaged  Rs.  65,000  and  Rs.  61,000  respectively. 
No  tribute  is  paid  to  Government.  The  State  contains  42  miles  of 
unmetalled  roads.  It  maintains  five  primary  schools,  the  total  number 
of  pupils  being  273.  In  1901  the  number  of  persons  returned  as  able 
to  read  and  write  was  353.  There  is  a  dispensary  at  Makrai.  The  State 
is  under  the  charge  of  the  Deputy-Commissioner  of  Hoshangabad  Dis 
trict,  subject  to  the  control  of  the  Commissioner,  Nerbudda  Division. 

Makran  (Mdkkurari). — The  south-western  division  of  the  Kalat 
State,  Baluchistan,  lying  between  250  \'  and  270  21'  N.  and  6i°  39' 
and  650   36'  E.,   with   an  area   of  about   26,000  square  miles.     It   is 


MAKRAN  45 

bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Jhalawan  country  and  part  of  Las  Bela  ; 

on  the  west  by  Persia  ;    on   the   north    by  the  Siahan    range,    which 

separates  it  from  Kharan  ;   and  on  the  south  by  the 

•  •  Physical 

sea.      The  coast-line,  which   stretches  dry  and  and  aspects 

from  Kalmat  to  Gwetter   Bay,   is  about    200  miles 

long.     Much  of  the  country  consists  of  mountains,  the  parallel  ranges 

of  which  have  a  general  direction  east  to  west,  enclosing  narrow  valleys. 

The  more  important  are  the  Makran  Coast,  Central  Makran,  and 

Siahan  Ranges.     They  gradually  ascend  in  height,  as  they  leave  the 

sea,  to  an  elevation  of  about  7,000  feet.    Within  them  lie  the  cultivated 

areas  of  the  country,  including  Kulanch  ;  Dasht ;  Nigwar ;  Kech,  also 

known  as   Kej,  of  which  Kolwa,  Sami,  Tump,  and  Mand  form   part ; 

and    Panjgur   with    Rakhshan.      The    Central    Makran    hills    contain 

the  minor  cultivable  tracts  of  Buleda,  Balgattar,  Parom,   Gichk,  and 

Raghai.     The  most  important  rivers  are  the  Dasht  and  the  Rakshan. 

They  are  dry.  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  but  carry  heavy 

floods,  and  one  of  their  features  is  the  frequent  pools  from  which  water 

is   drawn    off  for   purposes    of  irrigation.     Among  streams  of  minor 

importance  may  be  mentioned  the  Shadi   Kaur,  which  enters  the  sea 

near  Pasni  ;  and  the  Basol,  which  breaks  through  the  Makran  Coast 

Range.     Gwadar  and   Pasni  are  the  seaports,  and  a  little  traffic  is 

carried  on  at  Jlwnri.     The  coast  is  open  and  exposed,  and  owing  to 

the  shoaling  of  the  water  no  large  steamers  can  approach  nearer  than 

two  miles  from  the  shore. 

The  only  information  we  possess  about  the  geology  of  the  country  is 
derived  from  Dr.  Blanford's  observations  \  It  is  known  to  contain 
a  large  development  of  eocene  flysch  (Khojak  shales),  while  along  the 
coast  the  Siwaliks  include  numerous  intercalations  of  marine  strata, 
known  as  the  Makran  group,  containing  rich  fossil  fauna  of  upper 
miocene  age.  The  coast  appears  to  coincide  with  a  line  of  faulting, 
and  the  mud  volcanoes,  which  occur  near  it,  are  probably  connected 
with  this  fracture.  The  vegetation  of  the  country  is  similar  to  that 
which  occurs  generally  throughout  Southern  Baluchistan,  consisting  of 
an  ill-favoured,  spiny  scrub.  Such  species  as  Capparis  aphylla,  Sa/va- 
dora  oleoides,  Zizyphus  Jujuba,  Prosopis  spicigera,  Acanthodium  spicatum, 
Tamarix  articulata,  several  kinds  of  Acacia,  and  many  Astragali  are 
common.  The  mangrove  grows  in  the  swamps  on  the  coast.  Sind 
ibex  and  mountain  sheep  are  common  in  the  hills,  and  '  ravine  deer ' 
(gazelle)  along  their  skirts.  An  occasional  leopard  is  killed,  and  wild 
hog  are  to  be  found  in  places. 

The  climate  is  marked  by  three  zones  of  very  different  character. 
Along  the  coast  it   is  uniform  and,  though  hot,  not  unpleasant.     In 
Kech  the  winter  is  healthy  and  dry,  but  the  heat  in  summer  is  intense 
1  Records,  Geological  Survey  of  India,  vol.  v;  and  Eastern  Persia  (1876). 

P  ? 


46  MAKRAN 

and  in  remarkable  contrast  to  the  milder  atmosphere  of  the  coast. 
Panjgur  lies  in  the  most  temperate  zone,  with  severe  cold  in  winter 
and  moderate  heat  in  summer.  The  north  wind  (gorlch)  is  experienced 
everywhere  throughout  the  year.  It  is  scorching  in  summer  and 
cutting  in  winter.  During  the  winter  Kech  is  subject  to  dense  fogs, 
called  nod;  and,  to  guard  against  the  damp  and  the  mosquitoes,  every 
native  of  Makran  possesses  a  mosquito-curtain.  The  rainfall  is  capri- 
cious and  uncertain,  and  the  country  is  liable  to  long  periods  of 
drought.  Previous  to  1904  good  rainfall  had  not  been  received  in 
Kolwa,  Kulanch,  and  Dasht  for  five  years,  and  this  is  said  to  be  no 
uncommon  occurrence.  The  two  periods  during  which  rain  is  ex- 
pected are  known  as  bashsham  and  bahargah.  Bashshdm  brings  the 
summer  rains,  between  May  15  and  September  15,  which  generally 
affect  the  eastern  side  of  the  country.  The  north  and  west  are  more 
dependent  on  the  winter  rains  (bahargah),  falling  between  November 
and  February. 

Makran  is  generally  known  as  Kech-Makran,  to  distinguish  it  from 
Persian  Makran.  Kech-Makran  and  Persian  Makran  together  con- 
stitute the  Makranat,  a  term  occurring  in  several 
histories.  The  etymology  of  the  name  is  uncertain. 
By  some  Makran  is  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  maki  khoran,  '  fish- 
eaters,'  identifiable  with  the  Ichthyophagi  of  Arrian.  Lord  Curzon 
considers  the  name  to  be  Dravidian,  and  remarks  that  it  appears  as 
'  Makara '  in  the  Brihat  Sanhita  of  Varaha  Mihira  in  a  list  of  tribes 
contiguous  to  India  on  the  west.  To  the  Greeks  the  country  was 
known  as  Gedrosia.  Lying  on  the  high  road  from  the  west  to  the 
east,  Makran  is  the  part  of  Baluchistan  round  which  its  most  interesting 
history  centres.  Legendary  stories  tell  of  the  marches  of  Cyrus  and 
Semiramis  through  its  inhospitable  wastes,  marches  which  Alexander 
sousht  to  emulate  when  he  made  his  famous  retreat  from  India  in 
325  B.C.,  so  graphically  described  by  Arrian.  The  Shahnama  relates 
how  Kaikhusru  of  Persia  took  the  country  from  Afrasiab  of  Turan ; 
and  the  memory  of  the  former,  and  of  his  grandfather  Kai-Kaus,  is 
preserved  in  the  names  of  the  Khusravi  and  Kausi  karez  in  Kech. 
But  the  suzerainty  over  Makran  gravitated  sometimes  to  the  west, 
and  sometimes  to  the  east.  At  one  time  the  Sassanian  power  was 
in  possession ;  later  we  hear  of  its  conquest  by  Rai  Chach  of  Sind. 
The  Arabs,  in  the  seventh  century,  made  themselves  masters  of  the 
country;  but,  on  the  decline  of  the  Khalifat,  it  disappears  from 
authentic  history  until  Marco  Polo  mentions  it  about  1290  as  the 
most  westerly  part  of  India  under  an  independent  chief.  Local 
tradition  relates  that  of  the  indigenous  races  the  Rinds,  Hots,  and 
Maliks  successively  held  sway  in  the  country  after  the  Arabs;  the 
Maliks  were  followed  by  the  Buledais,  who  in  their  turn  were  ousted 


POPULATION  47 

by  the  Gichkis  from  India.  In  the  time  of  Ahmad  Shah  Durrani,  the 
country  was  reckoned  in  the  province  of  Kirman.  Owing  to  internal 
dissensions,  the  Gichkis  fell  under  the  suzerainty  of  Kalat  in  the  middle 
of  the  eighteenth  century  ;  and  Mir  Naslr  Khan  I  acquired  the  right 
to  half  of  the  revenue  of  the  country,  besides  extending  his  conquests 
westward  into  Persian  Makran.  In  1862  Makran  came  into  the 
prominent  notice  of  the  British  Government  in  connexion  with  the 
construction  of  the  Indo-European  Telegraph  line,  and  a  British  officer 
was  stationed  at  Gwadar  from  1863  to  187 1.  Meanwhile  Persia  was 
extending  her  power  eastward,  and  in  1879  it  was  found  necessary  to 
depute  Colonel  Goldsmid  to  settle  the  western  boundary.  Internally 
matters  had  gone  from  bad  to  worse,  owing  to  the  disputes  between  the 
Khan  of  Kalat  and  the  dominant  races,  the  Gichkis,  Nausherwanis,  and 
others,  until  at  length  a  settlement  was  effected  by  Sir  Robert  Sandeman 
in  1884.  The  interference  of  the  British  Government  has  ever  since 
been  constantly  required,  and  frequent  visits  have  been  paid  to  the 
country  by  European  officers  supported  by  escorts.  In  1891  Mr.  Tate, 
of  the  Survey  of  India,  was  appointed  as  the  Khan's  representative; 
but  he  was  withdrawn  in  1892,  being  succeeded  by  a  Hindu  Govern- 
ment official  as  the  Khan's  nazitn.  A  rising  of  the  Makranis  took  place 
in  1898,  when  the  iidzim  was  temporarily  captured,  but  the  rebels 
shortly  afterwards  received  a  severe  lesson  at  the  fight  of  Gokprosh. 
A  Brahui  of  good  family  was  thereupon  appointed  nazim.  A  dis- 
turbance in  1 90 1  led  to  another  small  expedition,  which  captured 
Nodiz  fort.  An  Assistant  Political  Agent,  who  is  ex-officio  commandant 
of  the  Makran  Levy  Corps,  has  been  posted  to  Panjgur  since  1904. 

From  careful  inquiries  made  in  1 903  the  population  of  Makran  was 
estimated  at  about  78,000.  The  permanent  villages  number  125,  the 
chief  of  which  are  Turbat,  the  head-quarters  of  the       _       ,  i# 

,       ■     ■  •  r^       -  tV  j   t       •  rro.  Population. 

administration,  Gwadar,  Pasni,  and  Isai.  I  he  more 
important  villages  are  those  clustering  round  the  forts,  which  number 
fifteen.  The  population  may  be  divided  into  five  classes:  the  dominant 
races;  the  middle-class  cultivators,  generally  known  as  Baloch;  culti- 
vators of  irrigated  lands,  menials,  and  artisans,  called  Darzadas,  Nakibs, 
and  Loris ;  fishermen,  known  as  Meds  and  Koras ;  and  dependants  of 
servile  origin.  It  is  distributed  into  groups,  each  of  which  lives 
independently  of  the  rest  ;  and  the  democratic  tribal  system,  which 
is  so  strongly  prevalent  in  other  parts  of  the  Kalat  State,  is  here  non- 
existent. The  dominant  races  include  the  Gichkis,  Nausherwanis, 
Bizanjaus,  and  Mirwaris,  the  whole  of  whom  probably  do  not  number 
more  than  about  500  persons.  Their  influence  is  due  either  to  their 
acquisition  of  the  country  by  conquest,  or  to  the  fact  that  they  repre- 
sent the  ruling  power  in  Kalat.  They  are  strictly  endogamous,  and 
Gichkis    born    of  Baloch   mothers  are   known  as  tolag,   i.  e.    '  jackal ' 


48  MAKRAN 

Gichkis,  and  lose  much  of  their  social  status.  The  Baloch  are  the 
peasant  proprietors ;  the  more  important  are  the  Hot,  Kauhdai,  Sheh- 
zada,  Kalmati,  and  Rais.  The  Darzadas  and  Nakibs  are  regarded  as 
of  aboriginal  descent.  They  are  courageous  and  of  fine  physique. 
Of  the  coast  population,  the  Meds  are  fishermen  and  the  Koras 
seamen  who  make  voyages  in  their  vessels  to  distant  countries.  Servile 
dependants  abound,  and  do  much  of  the  cultivation  and  all  the  house- 
hold work  for  men  of  means.  Many  of  them  are  Baloch  or  descendants 
of  Baloch  who  were  captured  in  the  frequent  raids  which  took  place  in 
pre-British  days.  About  half  of  the  people  are  Sunni  Muhammadans 
and  the  other  half  Zikris,  a  curious  sect  whose  alleged  incestuous  and 
other  immoral  practices  appear  to  have  been  much  exaggerated.  The 
language  of  the  country  is  Baluchi.  The  majority  of  the  population 
live  by  agriculture.  Other  occupations  are  flock-owning,  seafaring  and 
fishing,  weaving,  and  pottery-making. 

Most  of  the  cultivable  land  consists  of  '  dry-crop '  area.  Irrigation 
exists  in  Kech  and  Panjgiir,  which  could  probably  be  improved  and 
developed.  Its  sources  are  underground  channels 
{karez),  channels  cut  from  pools  in  rivers  (kaur-jo), 
and  springs.  The  karez  in  use  number  127,  and  the  channels  cut  from 
rivers  118.  The  best  soil,  known  as  milk,  consists  of  a  soft  white  clay. 
When  it  contains  a  mixture  of  sand,  it  is  known  as  ziuvar.  The 
principal  spring  crops  {jopag)  are  wheat  and  barley.  Minor  crops 
include  beans  and  pulses.  The  chief  autumn  crop  (er-aht)  is  jowar; 
rice  is  cultivated  in  Kech,  Buleda,  Panjgur,  and  Zamuran ;  while 
Tump,  Dasht,  and  Kulanch  produce  cotton.  The  date,  however,  is 
the  crop  par  excellence  of  Makran,  and  the  best  are  said,  even  by  the 
Arabs,  to  surpass  those  of  Basra.  The  cultivators  are  well  versed  in 
the  artificial  impregnation  of  the  date-spathes,  on  which  the  quality 
of  the  produce  depends.  Amen,  the  date-harvest  from  July  to 
September,  is  the  pivot  round  which  the  thoughts  of  all  the  people  of 
Makran  centre,  and  is  a  signal  for  a  general  influx  of  all  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  surrounding  country  to  Kech  and  Panjgur.  Horses,  camels, 
cows,  donkeys,  every  beast  and  every  man  lives  on  dates.  Laghati,  or 
compressed  dates,  constitutes  the  staple  food  of  the  poor.  Those  pre- 
served with  date-juice  in  earthen  jars,  called  humb,  are  much  relished 
everywhere.  More  than  300,000  date-trees  are  assessed  to  revenue  by 
the  Khan,  but  the  actual  number  exceeds  this  figure.  The  Makrani  is 
an  able,  though  indolent,  cultivator,  and  with  the  introduction  of  peace 
and  security  agriculture  will  doubtless  develop. 

Horse-breeding  is  not  so  popular  as  elsewhere  in  Baluchistan,  and 
few  mares  are  kept.  The  breed  of  cattle  is  small  and  generally  of  a 
brown  colour.  Makran  donkeys  are  known  for  their  fleetness.  Goods 
an;  carried  chiefly  by  camels,  which  are  available  everywhere,  except 


TRADE   AXD    COMMUNICATIONS  49 

along  the  coast.  The  commonest  sheep  in  the  country  are  white. 
Brown  and  grey  sheep,  known  as  bor  and  klrg,  are  especially  valued  for 
their  wool,  which  is  made  into  overcoats  {shal).  Four-horned  sheep 
are  not  uncommon  in  Dasht  and  Nigwar.  Xo  system  of  forest  reserva- 
tion has  yet  been  introduced.  The  commonest  trees  are  the  tamarisk, 
which  abounds  in  river-beds,  and  the  acacia.  No  minerals  of  economic 
value  have  yet  been  found. 

The  people  comprising  the  artisan  class  are  generally  landholders 
also.     They  have  no  stock  in  trade,  and  merely  supply  manufactured 
articles  from  the  material  furnished   to  them.     The 
weaving  industry  is  moribund,  owing  to  the  impor-  communions, 
tation  of  European  cloth.     A  few  coarse  cottons  are, 
however,  still  manufactured.     Kerchiefs,  used    by  the   women  to  put 
over  their  hair,  are  made  from  floss  silk  obtained  from  Sarbaz  in  Persia. 
Horse-cloths,   sword-belts,   and   shoes  are   embroidered  in   silk.     The 
pottery  is  of  the  roughest  description,  consisting  of  round  pitchers  and 
earthen  jars.     . 

In  1902-3  the  imports  to  the  Makran  ports  from  India  were  valued 
at  6-|  lakhs  and  the  exports  at  7  lakhs.  These  figures,  however,  include 
the  trade  with  the  ports  of  Sonmiani  and  Ormara  in  Las  Bela.  No 
statistics  are  available  regarding  the  trade  which  is  carried  on  with 
places  in  the  Persian  Gulf,  Arabia,  and  Africa.  The  chief  centres  are 
Gwadar,  where  the  largest  transactions  take  place,  Pasni,  Turbat,  and 
Isai.  Wholesale  trade  is  carried  on  entirely  by  Hindus  from  Sind  and 
Khojas  from  Cutch  Mandvi.  The  retail  trade  is  mostly  in  the  hands 
of  Hindus,  but  a  few  of  the  indigenous  inhabitants  and  some  Babis 
from  Kalat  are  also  engaged  in  it.  The  principal  exports  are  raw  wool, 
hides,  cotton,  matting,  dates,  salted  fish,  fish-maws,  and  shark-fins  ;  and 
the  chief  imports  are  piece-goods  and  grain,  including  large  quantities 
of  wheat,  rice,  and  jowar. 

The  communications  consist  solely  of  caravan  routes,  most  of  which 
are  exceedingly  bad,  especially  those  from  north  to  south,  which  cross 
the  hill  ranges  at  right  angles.  The  main  road  from  Quetta  to  Bampur 
in  Persia  passes  through  the  Panjgur  valley ;  another  important  route 
between  Karachi,  Las  Bela,  and  the  west  traverses  the  Kolwa  and 
Kech  valleys  and  eventually  also  reaches  Bampur.  Routes  from 
Gwadar  and  Pasni  converge  on  Turbat  northwards.  The  latter  has 
been  recently  improved  under  skilled  supervision,  and  is  being  con- 
tinued to  Panjgur  through  Buleda.  Another  track  from  Turbat  reaches 
Panjgur  through  Balgattar.  Steamers  of  the  British  India  Steam 
Navigation  Company  carrying  the  mails  call  at  Pasni  and  Gwadar 
on  alternate  weeks.  Both  these  places  have  post  and  telegraph 
offices. 

The  production  of  grain  in  the  country  is  probably  insufficient  for 


50  MAKRAN 

its  requirements,  but  a  good  date-harvest  is  enough  to  meet  the  needs 
of  the  scanty  population  for  the  year.  In  times  of  scarcity  the  inhabi- 
tants, rapidly  dispersing,  find  a  plentiful  demand  for  labour  at  Karachi 
and  in  Rajputana. 

The  administration  of  the  country  is  conducted,  on  behalf  of  the 
Khan  of  Kalat,  by  an  officer  known  as  the  nazim.     He  is  assisted 

.    .  .         .         by  four  naibs*  who  are  stationed  in  Tump,   Kolwa, 
Administration.    ,,       .         ,  -p.     .   _        T  ,      ,     .  .   .,   .      , 

Pasm,  and  Panjgur.     Irregular  levies  are  maintained, 

numbering  79  horse  and  81  foot,  at  a  total  cost  of  about 
Rs.  32,000  per  annum.  The  infantry  hold  the  important  forts  of 
Turbat,  Naslrabad,  and  Tump  in  Kech,  Bit  in  Buleda,  and  Isai  in 
Panjgur.  All  persons,  including  holders  of  revenue-free  grants,  are 
bound  to  assist  the  nazim  with  armed  men  when  occasion  requires. 
For  this  purpose  allowances  amounting  to  Rs.  6,000  per  annum  are 
granted  to  certain  leading  men  by  the  Khan.  A  telegraph  subsidy 
of  Rs.  5,520  is  paid  by  the  British  Government  for  the  protection  of 
the  Indo-European  Telegraph  line.  A  Levy  Corps  of  300  men  under 
two  British  officers,  with  its  head-quarters  in  Panjgur,  is  being  stationed 
along  the  western  frontier.  Its  cost,  about  1-2  lakhs  per  annum,  is 
borne  by  the  British  Government.  Disputes  are  generally  referred  to 
kazis  for  decision  according  to  the  Muhammadan  law.  Important 
awards  are  confirmed  by  the  Political  Agent  in  Kalat.  Crime  is  con- 
spicuous by  its  absence,  the  number  of  criminal  cases  decided  in  1 900-1 
being  only  63.  The  total  cost  of  administration,  including  the  pay 
of  the  irregular  levies,  is  about  Rs.  80,000  per  annum. 

It  has  been  stated  that  Nasir  Khan  I  obtained  from  the  Gichkls  only 
a  right  to  the  collection  of  half  the  revenues  of  the  country.  In  the 
course  of  the  long  series  of  struggles  between  the  Khans  of  Kalat  and 
the  dominant  groups  which  followed,  the  position  gradually  changed  ; 
and  the  Khan  has  now  obtained,  by  confiscation,  exchange,  &c,  the 
exclusive  right  to  the  revenue  of  some  places,  while  retaining  the  right 
to  a  moiety  in  others.  Elsewhere,  the  dominant  classes  hold  exclusive 
rights  to  collect.  The  revenue  is  taken  by  the  appraisement  of  cereals, 
the  State  share  being  generally  one-tenth  ;  by  contract ;  and  by  a  cash 
assessment  on  irrigated  lands,  known  as  zarr-e-shah,  which  has  now 
degenerated  into  a  poll-tax  of  very  unequal  incidence.  A  cash  assess- 
ment is  levied  on  date-trees,  and  grazing  tax  is  collected  at  the  rate  of 
one  sheep  in  40  or  50  and  one  seer  of  ghi.  Among  other  receipts 
are  transit  dues,  tithes  in  kind  on  all  fresh  fish  caught  on  the  coast,  and 
duties  on  imports  and  exports.  In  1902-3  the  total  revenue  derived 
from  the  country  by  the  Khan  was  Rs.  45,500,  to  which  a  grant  of 
Rs.  36,700  was  added  by  him  to  meet  the  expenses  of  administration. 

A  little  education  is  imparted  by  a  few  ignorant  mullas  and  kazis, 
generally  Darzadas  and  Afghans.     A  Hospital  Assistant  is  attached  to 


MAKE  AN  A  5 1 

the  nizim,  who  affords  medical  relief  in  a  few  cases.  The  people  are 
very  superstitious  and  attribute  almost  all  diseases  to  evil  spirits,  for 
casting  out  which  special  processes  are  employed.  Night-blindness, 
which  is  attributed  by  the  people  to  their  diet  of  fish  and  dates,  is 
common.  Fevers,  sore  eyes,  and  ulcers  are  of  constant  occurrence 
Cholera  and  small-pox  not  infrequently  visit  the  country.  Vaccination 
is  unknown,  but  inoculation  is  popular,  the  usual  fee  being  four  annas. 
The  people  thoroughly  understand  the  value  of  segregation,  and  careful 
precautions  are  taken  against  the  transport  of  infection  by  flies. 

[Ross,  Memorandum  on  Makrdn  (Bombay,  1867);  East  and  West, 
vol.  hi,  No.  31,  May,  1904,  contains  an  account  of  the  ancient  history 
of  the  country  by  Shams-ul-ulama  J.  J.  Modi.] 

Makran  Coast  Range. — Mountain  range  in  Baluchistan,  known 
locally  as  Bahr-i-Garr,  which  skirts  the  Arabian  Sea  for  280  miles 
between  250  22'  and  260  o'  N.  and  6i°  44'  and  66°  3'  E.  Its  width 
varies  from  35  to  70  miles.  The  prevailing  rock  is  a  pale-grey  clay  or 
marl,  occasionally  intersected  by  veins  of  gypsum  and  interstratified 
bands  of  shelly  limestone  and  sandstone.  The  parallel  ranges  of  the 
system  descend  gradually  from  east  to  west.  Everywhere  defiles,  rents, 
and  torrent  beds  are  to  be  seen.  The  principal  ridges  from  east  to 
west  are  Dhrun  (5,177  feet),  Gurangatti  (3,906  feet),  Taloi  (3,022  feet), 
and  Gokprosh,  whose  highest  point  is  Janzat  (4,345  feet).  Gokprosh 
is  famous  as  the  scene  of  the  defeat  of  the  Baloch  rebels  in  1898. 
Neither  permanent  inhabitants  nor  cultivated  lands  exist.  A  few 
stunted  trees  and  scrub  jungle  compose  the  only  vegetation.  Sind 
ibex  and  mountain  sheep  are  plentiful. 

Makran  Range,  Central. — Mountain  range  in  Baluchistan,  occu- 
pying the  centre  of  Makran,  between  260  3'  and  270  39'  N.  and  620 
19'  and  650  43'  E.  Springing  from  the  hills  of  the  Jhalawan  country 
its  two  well-defined  and  gradually  descending  ridges,  the  Zangi  Lak 
or  Dranjuk  hills  (6,166  feet)  on  the  north  and  the  Koh-i-Patandar 
(7,490  feet)  with  its  continuation  the  Kech  Band  (3,816  feet)  on  the 
south,  run  west-south-west  for  about  250  miles.  The  tumbled  mass  in 
the  centre  merges  on  the  west  into  the  Zamuran  hills,  and  the  northern 
portion  stretches  into  the  Persian  Bampusht  range.  The  width  is 
uniform,  about  45  miles.  Sandstone  is  the  prevailing  rock,  sometimes 
associated  with  shaly  strata  and  limestone.  Within  the  range  lie  the 
valleys  of  the  Raghai,  Gichk,  and  Gwargo  rivers,  Balgattar,  Buleda, 
and  Parom.  The  Zamuran  hills  are  alone  inhabited,  and  have  some 
cultivation  and  vegetation. 

Makrana. — Village  in  the  Parbatsar  district  of  the  State  of  Jodhpur, 
Rajputana,  situated  in  270  3'  N.  and  740  44'  E.,  on  the  Jodhpur- 
Blkaner  Railway.  Population  (1901),  5,157.  The  village  derives  its 
importance    from    its    marble    quarries,    which    have    been    noted    for 


52  WAKRANA 

centuries,  and  from  which  the  material  used  in  the  construction  of  the 
Taj  Mahal  at  Agra  was  obtained.  It  has  been  proposed  to  use  this 
marble  for  the  Victoria  Memorial  Hall  at  Calcutta.  The  quarries  vary 
in  depth  from  30  to  75  feet,  and  the  yearly  out-turn  averages  about 
900  or  1,000  tons.  The  marble  is  excavated  by  blasting,  and  is  then 
cut  into  required  sizes  by  means  of  steel  saws.  The  chips  and  dust 
left  behind  after  the  blocks  have  been  hauled  to  the  surface  are  burnt 
into  lime,  and  used  for  the  finer  kinds  of  plastering.  There  are  now 
twenty-six  quarries  being  worked,  which  give  employment  to  about 
100  labourers  daily,  mostly  of  the  Silawat  caste  of  Muhammadans. 

Maksudabad. — Old  name  of  Murshidabad  Town,  Murshidabad 
District,  Bengal. 

Maksudangarh  (Naiakila). — Petty  State  in  Central  India,  under 
the  Bhopal  Agency,  with  an  area  of  about  81  square  miles.  It  lies  in 
Malwa  and  takes  its  name  from  the  chief  town.  The  State  originally 
formed  a  part  of  Raghugarh.  In  1776  Raja  Balwant  Singh  of  Raghu- 
garh  granted  the  tract  to  his  brother  Budh  Singh,  whose  son  Durjan 
Sal  ( 1 795-1 811)  considerably  extended  his  possessions,  founding  a 
State  of  which  the  town  of  Bahadurgarh  (now  Isagarh  in  Gwalior)  was 
the  capital.  Early  in  the  nineteenth  century  his  lands  were  seized 
by  Sindhia,  but  were  in  part  restored  by  Sindhia's  general,  Jean 
Baptiste  Filose,  who  in  181 6  installed  Beri  Sal  Khichi,  of  the  Lalawat 
branch  of  the  family,  as  chief  of  Maksudangarh.  Since  then  it  has 
existed  as  a  separate  State,  feudatory  to  Gwalior,  to  which,  however, 
it  pays  no  tribute.  Its  position  is  thus  peculiar,  as  the  chief  does  not 
hold  under  a  British  guarantee.  Since  the  establishment  of  the  Bhopal 
Agency,  however,  the  internal  administration  has  invariably  been  con- 
ducted under  the  supervision  of  the  Political  Agent,  without  inter- 
ference on  the  part  of  the  Gwalior  Darbar.  The  present  chief, 
Raghunath  Singh,  succeeded  in  1864  at  the  age  of  fifteen.  The  State, 
which  had  been  mismanaged,  was  taken  under  superintendence  by  the 
Political  Agent  in  1880,  with  the  concurrence  of  the  Maharaja  Sindhia, 
and  is  still  under  supervision.  The  chief  bears  the  hereditary  title 
of  Raja. 

The  population  was  :  (1891)  14,422,  and  (1901)  14,284,  giving  a 
density  of  176  persons  per  square  mile.  Hindus  number  12,214,  or 
85  per  cent.;  Animists,  1,661,  or  12  per  cent.;  and  Musalmans,  398. 
The  State  contains  80  villages.  About  16  square  miles  are  cultivated. 
The  soil  is  fertile  and  bears  good  crops,  but  the  absence  of  roads 
prevents  any  great  development  of  trade.  Opium,  the  most  important 
product,  has  to  be  taken  more  than  50  miles  by  country  track  to  the 
railway.  The  total  revenue  is  about  Rs.  37,000,  of  which  Rs.  28,000 
is  derived  from  land. 

The  chief  town   is   Maksudangarh,  situated  in  -24°  4'  N.  and  77° 


MALABAR 


30 


18'  E.,  about  1,700  feet  above  sea-level.  Population  (1901),  2,222. 
It  is  a  small  place,  formed  of  an  irregular  congeries  of  houses 
dominated  by  the  fort  called  Naiakila  or  the  'new  fort,'  which  was 
built  by  Raja  Vikramaditya  of  Raghugarh  about  1730.  A  school, 
a  hospital,  a  jail,  and  a  British  post  office  are  situated  in  the  town, 
which  is  30  miles  by  fair-weather  road  from  Biaora  on  the  Bombay- 
Agra  high  road. 

Makurti. — Peak  in  the  Kundahs  in  the  Ootacamund  taluk  of  the 
Nilgiri  District,  Madras,  situated  in  ri°  22'  N.  and  760  31'  E.,  at  an 
elevation  of  8,403  feet  above  sea-level.  This  is  a  favourite  point  for 
excursions  from  Ootacamund,  the  ascent  being  made  by  a  zigzag  path 
cut  on  the  eastern  face.  Its  western  side  is  an  almost  unbroken 
precipice,  several  hundred  feet  in  depth.  The  spirits  of  men  and 
buffaloes  are  supposed  by  the  Todas  to  take  a  leap  together  into 
Hades  from  this  peak. 

Malabar  (Malayalam,  or  Malayam,  '  the  land  of  hills  :). — Perhaps 
the  most  beautiful,  and  certainly  one  of  the  richest  and  most  fertile, 
of  the  Districts  of  Madras,  lying  on  the  west  coast  of  the  Presidency, 
between  io°  15'  and  120  18'  N.  and  750  n'  and  760  51'  E.  Its 
ancient  name  was  Kerala,  which  included  also  the  District  of  South 
Kanara  and  the  Native  States  of  Cochin  and  Travancore ;  the  form 
Malabar  appears  to  be  derived  from  Arabic  sources,  the  termination 
bar  meaning  '  country.' 

Excluding  the  Laccadive  Islands,  the  District  has  an  area  of  5,795 
square  miles,  and  stretches  for  a  distance  of  150  miles  along  the 
Arabian  Sea  from  South  Kanara  in  the  north  to  Cochin  State  on 
the  south.  On  the  east  it  is  separated  from  Coorg,  the  Nilgiris,  and 
Coimbatore  by  the  Western  Ghats,  which  form  a  continuous  mountain 
barrier  from  3,000  to  8,000  feet  high,  at  a  distance  from  the  coast 
which  varies  from  20  miles  in  the  north  to  60  in  the  south,  and  are 
interrupted  only  at  the  Palghat  Gap,  16  miles  wide,  the  one  break  in 
the  whole  of  the  range.  In  two  places  the  limits  of  the  District  extend 
beyond  the  mountain  wall :  namely,  in  the  Wynaad  . 

taluk,   a  plateau   3,000  feet   above    sea-level,  which  aspects, 

really  forms  part  of  the  great  Mysore  table-land  ;  and 
in  the  Attapadi  and  Silent  Valleys,  which  lie  behind  the  irregular 
ridge  stretching  from  the  Kundahs  to  the  northern  pillar  of  the 
Palghat  Gap.  The  most  conspicuous  peak  in  the  Malabar  hills  is 
the  Vavul  Mala  or  'Camel's  Hump,'  7,600  feet  high,  which  heads 
a  magnificent  buttress  thrown  out  to  the  south-west  below  the  Tamar- 
asseri  pass,  where  the  general  line  of  the  Ghats  recedes  eastward. 
This  spur  constitutes  the  right  flank  of  the  Nilambur  Valley,  while 
the  left  is  formed  by  the  Kundahs,  which  rise  to  over  8,000  feet  in 
the  Nilgiri  Hills  and  Makurti  peaks  on  the  Nilgiri  boundary. 


54  MALABAR 

The  Ghats  are  thickly  wooded  in  most  parts,  and  contain  mountain 
scenery  of  unrivalled  beauty,  many  of  the  peaks  being  precipitous  and 
inaccessible.  The  country  below  presents  the  general  appearance  of 
a  sea  of  forest-covered  hills.  Long  wooded  spurs  with  deep  ravines 
run  down  from  the  main  range,  and  are  succeeded  by  gentler  slopes, 
covered  with  low  jungle,  and  by  bare  downs  with  gradually  widening 
valleys  of  luxuriant  cultivation.  Nearer  the  coast  the  laterite  downs 
shelve  suddenly  into  rice  plains  and  lagoons  fringed  with  coco-nut  palms. 
Along  the  coast  is  a  level  strip  seldom  more  than  2  or  3  miles  wide. 
It  was  thus  described  by  Ibn  Batuta  as  early  as  the  fourteenth 
century  :  '  The  whole  of  the  way  by  land  [down  the  coast]  lies  under 
the  shade  of  trees,  and  in  all  the  space  of  two  months'  journey  there 
is  not  one  span  free  from  cultivation ;  everybody  has  his  garden,  and 
his  house  is  planted  in  the  middle  of  it.' 

With  the  exception  of  three  tributaries  of  the  Cauvery — the  Bha- 
vani,  which  rises  in  the  Attapadi  Valley  and  flows  through  Coim- 
batore,  the  Kabbani  and  the  Rampur,  which  rise  in  the  Wynaad 
and  traverse  Mysore — all  the  numerous  rivers  of  Malabar  flow  west- 
ward from  the  Ghats  to  the  sea,  where  they  are  backed  up  by  littoral 
currents  and  discharge  into  a  line  of  backwaters  and  lagoons  parallel 
to  the  coast.  Most  of  the  rivers  are  navigable  by  small  boats  for  some 
miles  beyond  tidal  influence,  and  many  of  the  lagoons  are  connected 
by  small  canals ;  there  is  thus  an  extensive  system  of  inland  waterways 
of  great  commercial  importance.  The  longest  of  the  rivers  is  the 
Ponnani,  but  the  most  important  are  the  Beypore  and  the  Valar- 
pattanam  ;  all  three  are  connected  with  extensive  systems  of  back- 
waters. 

The  seaboard  is  entirely  open  except  in  the  extreme  north  at  Mount 
Delly,  a  massive  laterite  island  hill,  celebrated'  as  the  first  point  of 
India  sighted  by  the  Portuguese  ships.  South  of  this  as  far  as  Calicut 
small  headlands  of  laterite  cliff,  forming  shallow  bays,  alternate  with 
long  stretches  of  sand  ;  beyond  Calicut  is  one  unbroken  stretch  of 
sand.  The  sea  bottom  shelves  very  gradually,  and  there  is  no  deep 
water  within  three  miles  of  the  shore.  Thereafter  it  plunges  suddenly 
down  to  1,000  fathoms  and  more.  Small  craft  find  shelter  in  the 
mouths  of  the  bigger  rivers  ;  while  at  Calicut,  Quilandi,  and  Cochin 
shifting  mudbanks  afford  a  calm  roadstead  in  all  weathers. 

The  greater  part  of  the  low  country  is  covered  with  laterite,  but  the 
underlying  rock  consists  of  fine-grained  gneisses,  quartzose,  garneti- 
ferous,  and  quartzo-felspathic.  The  laterite  is  of  two  kinds :  namely, 
vesicular,  derived  from  the  decomposition  of  the  gneiss  in  situ  ;  and 
pellety,  a  detrital  rock  formed  of  the  debris  of  the  vesicular  variety. 
The  Wynaad  plateau  is  composed  chiefly  of  rocks  of  the  charnockite 
series  with  biotite  gneiss  and  biotite  granite,  in  the  former  of  which 


PHYSICAL   ASPECTS  55 

auriferous  reefs  occur.  Veins  of  pegmatite,  carrying  ruby  mica  of  fair 
size  and  quality,  are  found  in  the  south  of  it. 

Owing  to  the  perennial  humidity  of  the  climate,  the  flora  of  the 
District  is  very  luxuriant.  It  is  similar  in  its  general  character  to  that 
of  Ceylon,  but  varies  with  the  many  changes  in  altitude  and  moisture 
which  occur.  Palms,  bamboos,  the  jack-tree,  and  the  pepper-vine  are 
among  the  more  characteristic  plants  of  the  lower  levels.  Higher  up 
are  heavy  evergreen  forests  full  of  large  timber ;  and  tree-ferns,  orchids, 
and  mosses  are  plentiful.  The  Hortus  Malabaricus  of  Van  Rheede, 
a  Dutch  governor  of  this  part  of  the  country,  is  the  earliest  treatise  on 
the  flora  of  Southern  India  and  describes  as  many  as  794  different  plants. 

The  fauna  of  Malabar  is  extremely  varied.  Throughout  the  Ghats 
and  the  Wynaad  are  found  the  usual  large  game  common  to  the  South 
Indian  hills,  such  as  tigers,  bears,  leopards,  bison,  sa/nbar,  and  hog. 
Elephants  abound,  especially  in  the  Wynaad  and  Nilambur  forests, 
where  large  numbers  are  caught  in  pits  by  the  Forest  department. 
Spotted  deer  are  confined  to  the  hills  at  the  foot  of  the  Ghats,  and 
the  Nilgiri  ibex  {Hemiiragus  hylocrius)  to  the  Palghat  hills  and  the 
Kundahs.  Crocodiles  and  otters  abound  in  the  backwaters,  and  a  large 
number  of  edible  fish  of  many  kinds  are  caught  all  along  the  coast. 

The  climate,  though  excessively  damp,  is  on  the  whole  healthy ;  but 
the  Wynaad  and  lower  slopes  of  the  Ghats,  with  the  country  imme- 
diately at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  are  malarious,  especially  from  February 
to  June.  The  temperature  of  the  low  country  varies  little  the  whole 
year  round,  seldom  rising  as  high  as  900  or  falling  below  700;  there 
is  a  constant  sea-breeze  during  the  day  in  the  hottest  weather.  The 
mean  temperature  for  the  year  at  Calicut  is  below  8i°. 

The  rainfall  is  heavy  and  unfailing  throughout  the  District,  and  the 
seasons  are  regular.  Thunderstorms  begin  among  the  hills  in  April. 
In  May  the  south-west  monsoon  sets  in,  and  banks  up  the  clouds 
against  the  Ghats.  The  rains  break  early  in  June  and  continue  to  the 
end  of  September,  when  the  south-west  monsoon  dies  away.  Three- 
fourths  of  the  total  fall  is  received  during  these  four  months.  In 
October  the  north-east  monsoon  sets  in,  the  rains  slacken,  and  by 
December  the  dry  season  is  established.  The  rainfall  is  lightest  in 
Palghat,  where  the  gap  in  the  Western  Ghats  prevents  the  accumulation 
of  so  much  moisture  as  elsewhere,  and  heaviest  among  the  high  hills 
in  the  south  of  the  Wynaad.  The  annual  fall  for  the  whole  District 
averages  116  inches. 

Famine,  therefore,  is  practically  unknown  ;  while,  since  the  rapid 
rivers  have  cut  deep  beds  for  themselves,  floods  are  rare.  Nor  is  there 
any  record  of  serious  natural  calamities  of  other  kinds,  such  as  cyclones 
or  earthquakes,  except  the  storm-wave  of  1847,  which  did  much  damage 
on  the  Laccadive  Islands  and  a  little  on  the  mainland. 


56  MALABAR 

The  early  history  of  Malabar  is  inseparable  from  that  of  the  adjoining 

State  of  Travancore.     Identical  in  people,  language,  laws,  customs,  and 

climate,  the  whole  of  ancient  Kerala  is  homogeneous 

History.  .  .       ,  .  .  .       ,.  .  ,    , 

in  every  respect,  except  in  the  accident  of  a  divided 

political  administration.  To  trace  the  successive  waves,  whether  of 
invasion  or  of  peaceful  colonization,  which  are  now  represented  by  the 
Cherumans  and  Tiyans,  Nayars  and  Nambudris,  overlying  one  another 
in  social  strata,  or  to  examine  the  physical  justification  for  the  legendary 
origin  of  this  interesting  country,  is  beyond  the  scope  of  this  article. 

It  is  probable  that  the  later  flood  of  immigration  which  gave  to 
Kerala  or  Chera  its  Nayars  and  Nambudris  was  part  of  a  general 
movement  southward,  which  in  prehistoric  times  brought  the  best  of 
its  people  and  its  Brahmanism  to  Southern  India.  It  is  also  likely 
that  the  physical  formation  of  Kerala  was  due  to  some  natural  process, 
gradual  or  convulsive,  which  gave  rise  to  the  local  legend  of  its  having 
been  the  gift  of  the  ocean.  In  very  ancient  times  a  traffic  sprung  up 
between  the  Mediterranean  and  the  roadsteads  of  Malabar.  The 
Phoenicians  came  by  way  of  the  Persian  Gulf  and  afterwards  by  the 
Red  Sea.  Possibly  the  Jews  made  the  same  voyage  in  the  reigns  of 
David  and  Solomon.  The  Syrians  under  the  Seleucids,  the  Egyptians 
under  the  Ptolemies,  the  Romans  under  the  emperors,  the  Arabs  after 
the  conquest  of  Egypt  and  Persia,  the  Italians,  more  especially  the 
Republics  of  Venice,  Florence,  and  Genoa,  have  each  in  turn  main- 
tained a  direct  trade  with  the  western  ports  of  the  Madras  Presidency. 
In  the  early  political  history  of  Malabar  the  first  figure  that  emerges 
from  the  mist  of  tradition  is  Cheraman  Perumal,  the  last  of  the 
sovereigns  of  Chera.  He  is  represented  as  voluntarily  resigning  his 
throne,  subdividing  his  kingdom,  and  retiring  to  Mecca  to  adopt  Islam. 
The  date  of  Cheraman  has  been  the  subject  of  much  discussion  ;  but 
recently  information  has  been  received  that  his  tomb  still  exists  at 
Sabhai  on  the  Arabian  coast,  and  the  dates  on  it  were  said  to  indicate 
that  he  reached  that  place  in  a.h.  212  (a.  d.  827)  and  died  there  in 
a.  H.  216  (a.d.  831).  His  departure  from  Malabar  may  possibly  have 
taken  place  on  August  25,  825,  which  is  the  first  day  of  the  Kollam  era 
still  in  use  on  the  coast.  The  epoch  popularly  assigned  to  him  is  the 
middle  of  the  fourth  century.  It  is  probable  that,  if  the  resignation 
and  partition  actually  occurred,  they  were  forced  on  the  ruler  by  the 
growing  power  and  turbulence  of  his  feudatory  chiefs  and  by  the 
encroachments  of  the  Western  Chalukya  dynasty.  From  this  time 
Malabar  remained  divided  among  numerous  small  chieftains,  of  whom 
Kolattiri  or  Chirrakkal  in  the  north  and  the  Zamorin  (or  Samuri)  in  the 
south  were  the  most  conspicuous.  It  was  with  these  last  two,  and  with 
the  Cochin  Raja,  that  the  early  Portuguese  adventurers  first  entered 
into  relations. 


HISTORY 


57 


Yasco  da  Gama  visited  Malabar  in  1498,  and  his  successors  speedily 
established  themselves  at  Cochin,  Calicut,  md  Cannanore.  In 
1656  the  Dutch  appeared  in  the  Indian  seas  to  compete  with  the 
Portuguese  for  the  trade  of  the  country.  They  first  conquered  Can- 
nanore, and  in  1663  captured  the  town  and  fort  of  Cochin,  as  well 
as  Tangasseri,  from  their  rivals.  In  171 7  they  secured  the  cession 
of  the  island  of  Chetwai  from  the  Zamorin.  But  in  the  next  half- 
century  their  power  began  to  wane  :  Cannanore  was  sold  to  the 
Cannanore  family,  represented  at  that  time  by  AH  Raja,  in  1771: 
Chetwai  was  conquered  by  Haidar  in  1776,  and  Cochin  captured  by 
the  English  in  1795.  The  French  first  settled  at  Calicut  in  1698. 
In  1726  they  obtained  a  footing  in  Mahk,  and  in  1751  acquired 
Mount  Delly  and  a  few  outposts  in  the  north,  all  of  which  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  English  in  1761.  Their  frequent  wars  with  the 
English  ended  in  the  destruction  of  their  commerce  in  the  East, 
Mahe  having  been  thrice  taken  and  thrice  restored.  The  English 
established  themselves  in  1664  at  Calicut,  in  1683  at  Tellicherrv, 
and  in  1684  at  Anjengo,  Chetwai,  and  other  commercial  factories. 
Tellicherrv  became  their  chief  entrepot  for  the  pepper  trade  ;  and  so 
rapid  was  the  extension  of  their  power  and  influence  that  in  1737  the 
English  factors  mediated  a  peace  between  the  princes  of  -Kanara  and 
Kolattiri.  They  obtained  the  exclusive  privilege  of  purchasing  the 
valuable  products  of  the  country  :  namely,  pepper,  cardamoms,  and 
sandal-wood. 

For  nearly  a  century  the  Maratha  pirates  under  Angria  and  other 
chiefs  infested  the  coast,  and  ravaged  even  inland  towns  by  sailing  up 
the  Beypore,  Ponnani,  and  other  rivers,  till  1756,  when  they  were 
destroyed  by  a  British  expedition.  The  Ikkeri  or  Bednur  Raja  in 
1736  and  1 75 1  invaded  the  country  of  Kolattiri  and  imposed  fines 
on  the  northern  division.  The  Palghat  State,  after  dismemberment 
by  the  Rajas  of  Calicut  and  Cochin,  sought  the  alliance  of  Mysore, 
then  ruled  by  its  Hindu  Raja,  who  stationed  a  subsidiary  force  in 
Palghat.  It  was  this  connexion  which  afforded  Haidar  AH,  when  he 
became  ruler  of  Mysore,  a  pretext  for  invading  Malabar  in  defence  of 
his  ally,  the  Palghat  Achchan.  In  1760  Haidar  sent  an  army  to 
Palghat  and  descended  the  ghats  through  Coorg  in  person.  Again 
in  1776,  at  the  instigation  of  All  Raja,  the  Mappilla  chieftain  of  Can- 
nanore, he  made  an  easy  conquest  of  the  whole  country,  the  Rajas 
flying  into  the  jungles  or  taking  refuge  in  the  English  settlement  of 
Tellicherry.  They,  however,  took  advantage  of  the  war  between 
Haidar  and  the  English  in  1768  to  reinstate  themselves  until  1774. 
when  Haidar  again  passed  down  the  ghats  with  two  armies  and  com- 
pletely subjugated  the  country,  the  Hindu  chiefs  retiring  to  Travancore 
and  Tellicherry. 


58  MALABAR 

On  war  breaking  out  between  the  English  and  the  French  in  1778, 
Haidar  resented  the  asylum  that  had  been  granted  by  the  former  to 
refugees  in  1769,  and  began  hostilities  by  investing  Tellicherry  fort. 
The  siege  was  prosecuted  in  a  fitful  manner  for  two  years  till  reinforce- 
ments arrived  from  Bombay,  when  it  was  raised  by  a  sortie,  the  success 
of  which  was  so  complete  as  practically  to  annihilate  the  besieging 
army.  Peace  intervened  between  1784  and  1788,  when  Tipu  Sultan, 
son  and  successor  of  Haidar,  descended  the  ghats  and  commenced 
a  religious  persecution  of  the  people.  This  produced  a  rebellion ;  and, 
on  the  breaking  out  of  the  war  between  him  and  the  British  in  1790, 
the  refugee  chiefs  were  encouraged  by  proclamation  to  join  the  British 
cause.  The  contest  terminated  in  the  cession  of  Malabar  (except 
the  Wynaad)  to  the  Company  by  the  Treaty  of  Seringapatam  in  1792. 
Since  that  date  the  District  has  remained  in  the  peaceable  possession 
of  the  British,  except  for  the  rebellion  of  the  Kottayath  (Pychy)  Raja 
in  the  north  and  various  Mappilla  chiefs  in  the  south  (1 795-1805). 
The  Wynaad  fell  to  the  British  on  the  death  of  Tipu  Sultan  in  1799. 

Prehistoric  menhirs  and  dolmens,  in  which  have  been  found  bones, 
pottery,  iron  implements,  and  beads,  are  scattered  all  over  the  District. 
Peculiar  to  Malabar  are  the  topi  kallu  ('hat-stones'),  kuda  kalht 
('  umbrella-stones '),  and  bee-hive  sepulchres  cut  in  the  laterite  rock. 
A  large  number  of  Roman  coins  of  the  early  emperors  have  been  found 
in  Kottayam,  and  a  few  elsewhere.  The  architecture  of  the  temples, 
both  Hindu  and  Muhammadan,  perhaps  suggests  Mongolian  influence ; 
the  most  striking  feature  is  the  reverse  slope  of  the  eaves  above  the 
veranda,  a  peculiarity  which  is  found  all  down  the  West  Coast  but 
nowhere  else  in  India  south  of  Nepal.  Most  of  the  temples  are  small ; 
the  finest  are  at  Guruvayur,  Calicut,  and  Taliparamba. 

During  the  last  thirty  years  the  population  of  the  District  has 
advanced  steadily  if  not  rapidly.  In  1871  it  was  2,261,250;  in  1881, 
Population  2'365>°35;  in  1891,  2,652,565;  and  in  1901,  2,800,555. 
Malabar  is  now  the  third  most  populous  District  in 
the  Presidency,  and,  notwithstanding  the  large  areas  of  hill  and  forest 
included  within  its  limits,  is  more  densely  peopled  than  any  other 
except  the  rich  delta  of  Tanjore.  The  rate  of  increase  is  little  affected 
by  outside  influences,  famine  being  practically  unknown,  emigration 
small,  and  immigration  a  negligible  quantity.  The  District  contains  ten 
taluks,  of  which  particulars,  according  to  the  Census  of  1901,  are  shown 
in  the  table  on  next  page,  and  also  includes  the  Laccadive  Islands. 

Each  taluk  is  divided  into  amsams  (parishes)  instead  of  villages,  and 
these  are  again  subdivided  into  desams.  The  custom  by  which  each 
family  lives  in  its  own  separate  homestead  is  inimical  to  the  growth 
of  towns,  and  there  are  only  seven  in  all  Malabar  :  namely,  Calicut, 
Tellicherry,  Pai.ghat,  Cannanore,  Cochin,  Badagara,  and  Pon- 


POPULATIOX 


59 


NANI.  Of  every  ioo  of  the  people  68  arc  Hindus,  30  (a  far  larger 
proportion  than  in  any  other  District)  Musalmans,  and  2  Christians. 
Malayalam,  a  language  which  is  confined  to  the  Malabar  coast,  is  the 
prevailing  vernacular,  though  4  per  cent,  of  the  total  population  speak 
Tamil.  Mahl  is  the  language  of  the  islanders  of  Minicoy,  one  of  the 
Laccadives. 


£ 

Number  of 

U 

0        » 

0 

a 

= 

=   —      -          . 

-  •- 

£  5 

«  C    -  J:   0 

u-^2  2  -• 

w  u 

a 

.2  v 

t*  0.2  "   - 

&<*<*£ 

Taluk. 

p 

en 
C 

3 

3  5. 

5   Rj  —    L  T 

—    r.  —  1- 

5  o  5  * 

V 

u 

< 

4S| 

0 
H 

I 

*-< 

0   » 

Kottayam    . 

223 

209.516 

436 

+  7--' 

28,249 

Chirakkal    . 

677 

I 

273 

320.107 

473 

+  2-9 

32,810 

Kurumbranad 

5°5 

1 

339 

327,310 

648 

+  7-6 

39, "9 

Wvnaad 

821 

5« 

75,' 49 

92 

—    2-1 

4,649 

Calicut 

379 

I 

180 

255,612 

674 

+  7-5 

33,447 

Ernad 

979 

221 

357,M2 

365 

+  3-9 

2  2,745 

YValavanad  . 

S82 

• . . 

316 

35i,m 

398 

+  7.0 

30,611 

Palghat 

643 

I 

136 

390,098 

607 

+  4.8 

37,335 

Ponnani 

426 

I 

459 

478,376 

',123 

+  6.5 

45,5*7 

Cochin 

2 

I 

3 

25,859 

« 2,930 

+  9-0 

6.01 1 

Laccadive  Islands 
District  total 

5 

10,274 

-  3-5 

461 

5,795 

7 

2,213 

2,800,555 

4S 1 

+  5-6 

280.954 

The  Hindus  of  the  District  include  113,000  Tamils  (30  per  cent,  of 
whom  are  Brahmans),  about  20,000  Telugus,  and  a  sprinkling  of  other 
races ;  but  the  enormous  majority  consists  of  Malayalam-speaking 
castes  peculiar  to  the  country.  The  most  numerous  of  these  are  the 
Tlyans  (or  Iluvans),  the  toddy-drawer  caste,  who  number  661,000. 
Next  come  the  Nayars  (391,000),  originally  the  military  caste  of  the 
District  and  still  the  aristocracy.  They  are  followed  by  the  Cherumans 
(246,000),  the  agricultural  labourers  of  the  country,  who  are  often 
adscripti  glebae  in  the  strictest  sense,  and  form  one  of  the  most  unpro- 
gressive  communities  in  the  Presidency.  The  Kammalans  (artisans) 
are  the  only  other  caste  over  100,000  strong.  The  Nambudri  Brah- 
mans, though  numbering  under  20,000,  deserve  mention  from  their 
influential  position.  They  are  almost  invariably  landholders,  often  of 
large  estates.  Unlike  most  Brahmans,  they  keep  aloof  from  public 
affairs,  and  despise  modern  education ;  but  they  are  the  object  of  the 
deepest  reverence  from  all  other  castes. 

Space  does  not  permit  of  a  detailed  account  of  the  man)-  ways  in 
which  Malayalam  caste  customs  differ  from  those  of  the  rest  of  the 
Presidency,  but  two  peculiarities  may  be  noticed.  The  first  is  the 
vitality  of  the  doctrine  of  ceremonial  pollution,  which  is  elaborated  in 
great  detail  and  is  still  scrupulously  observed  except  in  the  towns. 
There  are  regularly  graduated   degrees  of  distance  within  which  one 

VOL.  XVII.  E 


6o  MALABAR 

caste  is  held  to  pollute  another  ;  and  a  high-caste  man  returning  from 
his  bath  shouts  out  to  warn  others  of  his  approach,  so  that  they  may 
step  aside  into  the  fields  and  not  pollute  him.  The  second  is  the 
prevalence  of  the  Marumakkattayam  law,  or  system  of  inheritance 
through  females,  which  makes  a  man's  sister's  children  his  nearest 
heirs.  This  is  invariable  among  the  Nayars  and  kindred  castes,  and 
is  followed  by  most  of  the  Tiyans  and  Mappillas  of  North  Malabar 
and  by  some  of  those  of  South  Malabar.  The  custom  presumably 
originated  in  the  uncertainty  regarding  parentage  that  arose  from  the 
polyandry  which  was  formerly  widely  practised  and  may  still  exist  in 
isolated  cases.  Among  the  Hindu  Marumakkattayam  castes,  marriage 
consists  in  a  union  {sambandhani)  formed  by  a  girl  who  has  reached 
maturity  with  a  man  of  her  own  or  a  higher  caste,  the  main  ceremonial 
being  the  presentation  of  a  piece  of  cloth  by  the  bridegroom.  This 
union  is  dissolvable  at  will,  and  the  children  born  of  it  belong  to  the 
mother's  family  (tanvad)  and  do  not  inherit  their  father's  property.  In 
1891,  in  compliance  with  a  movement  among  a  section  of  the  Nayars, 
the  Government  appointed  a  Commission  to  consider  how  a  more 
permanent  form  of  marriage  might  be  provided  for  Marumakkattayam 
castes  ;  and  a  law  was  enacted  by  which,  if  sambandhams  were  formally 
registered,  the  property  of  the  parents  could  be  bequeathed  to  the 
children  of  the  union. 

The  Musalmans  of  Malabar  number  843,000,  or  more  than  one- 
third  of  all  the  followers  of  that  faith  in  the  Presidency.  Of  these, 
806,000  are  classed  as  Mappillas,  a  name  originally  applied  to  Arab 
traders  and  their  descendants  by  the  women  of  the  coast,  but  now  used 
to  include  all  indigenous  West  Coast  Muhammadans,  among  whom  are 
comprised  large  numbers  of  converts  from  the  lower  Hindu  castes,  and 
descendants  of  the  victims  of  Tipu's  persecution.  Of  the  remainder, 
24,000  are  Labbais,  also  a  mixed  race. 

Eurasians  are  more  numerous  in  Malabar  than  in  any  other  District 
except  Madras  and  the  Nilgiris. 

The  people  of  Malabar  are  less  exclusively  agricultural  than  those  of 
other  Districts.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  a  large  number  live  by 
fishing  and  fish-curing,  wood-cutting,  oil-pressing,  rice-pounding,  and 
milking  the  palm-leaf  hats  and  umbrellas  which  are  universally  used. 
The  number  of  those  who  subsist  by  service  in  temples,  astrology,  and 
teaching  is  also  above  the  average. 

Of  the  51,000  Christians  in  the  District,  46,000  arc  natives  and 
4,000  Eurasians.  The  Native  Christian  Church  of  the  West  Coast, 
founded  traditionally  either  by  St.  Thomas  or  by  missionaries  from 
Babylonia  in  the  fourth  century,  appears  to  have  been  more  or  less 
independent  till  the  sixteenth  century,  though  acknowledging  generally 
the  supremacy  of  the  Nestorian  Patriarch  of  Babylon.     After  a  long 


AGRICULTURE  61 

struggle  against  the  influence  of  St.  Francis  Xavier  and  various  Jesuit 
and  other  Portuguese  missionaries,  culminating  in  the  famous  synod 
of  Uiamper  (Udayamperur)  in  1599,  the  Church  passed  under  the 
domination  of  the  Pope;  but  with  the  rise  of  the  Dutch  power  the 
greater  portion  of  the  original  Native  Church  threw  off  its  allegiance  to 
Rome  in  1653  and  attached  itself  to  the  Jacobite  Patriarch  of  Antioch. 
The  Carmelite  missionaries,  who  first  came  to  the  country  in  1656, 
gradually  won  back  a  large  number  of  the  native  Christians  to  Rome ; 
and  the  remaining  section,  falling  under  the  influence  of  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  in  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century,  have 
split  up  into  two  bodies.  The  indigenous  Church,  therefore,  is  now 
represented  by  three  organizations  :  namely,  the  Romo-Syrians,  who 
acknowledge  the  Pope  and  are  Roman  Catholics,  though  they  have 
their  own  Syrian  rite ;  the  Jacobite  Syrians,  who  follow  the  Patriarch 
of  Antioch ;  and  the  Reformed  Syrians  or  St.  Thomas  Christians,  who 
appoint  their  own  bishops,  and  whose  doctrines  approximate  to  those 
of  the  Anglican  Church. 

The  present  Roman  Catholic  missionaries  are  Carmelite  Fathers  and 
Jesuits.  The  only  Protestant  mission  is  the  Basel  German  Lutheran 
Mission,  established  in  1839.  It  has  churches  and  schools  in  all  the 
taluks  except  Ernad  and  Cochin,  and  a  congregation  numbering  about 
6,000,  or  12  per  cent,  of  the  Christian  population. 

The  agricultural  conditions  of  Malabar  differ  from  those  of  the 
East  Coast  as  widely  as  do  its  physical  features.  The  prevailing  soil 
is  a  red  ferruginous  loam,  but  on  the  slopes  of  the  . 

Ghats  there  is  a  rich  layer  of  black  mould  formed 
of  decayed  vegetable  matter.  On  the  hills  and  plateaux  of  the  low 
country  the  soil  varies  from  rich  loam  to  uncultivable  laterite,  the 
former  being  most  prevalent  in  the  Ernad,  Walavanad,  and  Palghat 
taluks,  where  there  is  extensive  'dry'  (unirrigated)  cultivation.  The 
best  rice  crops  of  the  District  are  grown  in  the  deeper  inland  valleys, 
where  a  tenacious  soil  is  enriched  by  the  surface  earth  washed  down 
from  the  hills.  The  shallower  valleys  contain  a  light  loam,  which 
becomes  sandy  as  they  broaden  out  near  the  coast,  or  clayey  where 
they  meet  the  bigger  rivers  and  backwaters.  Above  the  line  of  '  wet ' 
cultivation  there  is  as  a  rule  a  fringe  of  gardens,  each  with  its  home 
stead,  often  reaching  to  the  very  top  of  the  hill-side;  but  in  the 
southern  taluks  the  slopes  are  more  frequently  terraced  and  cultivated 
with  'wet  crops'  to  a  considerable  height  above  the  level  of  the  valley. 
The  soil  of  the  level  country  near  the  coast  is  poor  and  very  sandy,  and 
subject  to  damage  from  salt-water  floods.  It  is,  however,  peculiarly 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  the  coco-nut  palm,  with  which  the  coast  land- 
are  thickly  planted. 

Two  '  wet  crops '  are  grown  in  most  of  the  valleys  with  the  help  of 

e  2 


62  MALABAR 

the  two  monsoons.  The  first  {kanni)  is  sown  in  April  and  May  and 
reaped  in  August  and  September,  while  the  second  {makaram)  is  sown 
in  September  and  October  and  reaped  in  January  and  February.  On 
some  of  the  best  lands  a  third  crop  (punja)  is  sown  in  February  and 
reaped  in  May.  On  '  single-crop '  lands  one  or  other  of  the  above  is 
grown ;  but  the  cultivation  season  varies  almost  infinitely  with  the 
nature  of  the  land  and  its  irrigation  facilities,  and  in  some  cases 
extends  over  ten  months.  In  the  better  soils  rice  is  usually  planted 
out  from  nursery  beds  ;  elsewhere  it  is  sown  broadcast.  '  Dry  crops ' 
are  raised  usually  with  the  help  of  the  south-west  monsoon  from  May 
to  August.  Modern — rice  grown  on  the  open  lower  hills  and  in 
parambas  (orchards) — is  raised  on  the  better  soils  once  in  two  or  three 
years,  on  the  worse  soils  once  in  five  years.  On  the  best  it  is  usually 
followed  immediately  by  a  crop  of  gingelly  (Sesamum  indicuni)  and 
another  of  chama  {Panicum  miliare),  the  three  crops  occupying  the 
land  for  more  than  eighteen  months.  Pitnam — a  mixed  crop  of  rice, 
millet,  &c. — is  raised  once  in  seven  or  eight  years  on  hill-sides  roughly 
cleared  by  burning. 

The  5,795  square  miles  of  which  the  District  consists  include 
1 8  square  miles  of  '  minor  indms ' ;  the  rest,  except  the  Laccadives 
and  a  small  area  held  on  special  terms  by  All  Raja  of  Cannanore,  is 
ryotwdri.  There  are  no  accurate  statistics  of  the  area  under  culti- 
vation, &c.  ;  but  the  extent  cropped  in  1903-4  (including  temporary 
cultivation,  i.e.  the  actual  area  cultivated  for  the  year  with  'dry  crops') 
was  about  2,200  square  miles,  or  38  per  cent,  of  the  total  area.  Of  the 
remainder,  the  major  portion  consists  of  high  hills,  forests,  and  other 
uncultivable  areas. 

Rice  is  the  staple  food-grain,  covering  60  per  cent,  of  the  net  area 
cultivated.  In  gardens  and  parambas,  which  occupy  nearly  half  the 
cultivated  area,  by  far  the  most  important  crop  is  the  coco-nut  palm. 
Next  come  areca  palms,  plantains,  and  pepper,  the  latter  being  practi- 
cally confined  to  the  three  northern  taluks  and  the  Wynaad.  Other 
garden  products  are  jack,  mango,  palmyra  palms,  betel-vines,  cinnamon, 
and  many  kinds  of  vegetables.  Gingelly,  chama,  ragi,  and  various 
pulses  are  raised  on  the  open  hills  and  in  parambas;  ginger  is  a 
valuable  '  dry  crop '  in  Ernad,  Walavanad,  and  parts  of  Ponnani,  and 
cardamoms  in  Kottayam  and  the  Wynaad,  while  lemon-grass  is  being 
widely  grown  in  Ernad.  About  4,800  acres  in  the  Wynaad  are  under 
coffee  and  4,600  acres  under  tea. 

No  accurate  statistics  exist  to  show  the  extension  in  the  area  of  hold- 
ings. Near  the  coast  there  is  little  cultivable  waste,  while  inland  the 
limits  of  cultivation  are  being  steadily  pushed  back  into  the  jungles. 
The  Malabar  ryot  is  very  conservative  in  his  methods  of  cultivation, 
and  still  generally  confines  himself  to  the  use  of  straw-  and  leaf-manure 


FORESTS  63 

for  '  wet '  lands.  Fish-manure  is  used  in  some  gardens  on  the  coast 
and  in  the  Wynaad.  The  gardens  could  often  be  much  improved  by 
a  more  extended  use  of  well-irrigation.  No  advantage  has  been  taken 
of  the  Land  Improvement  Loans  Act. 

There  are  no  important  local  breeds  of  stock.  In  the  four  southern 
taluks,  where  cattle  are  comparatively  numerous,  the  majority  are 
imported  from  Coimbatore.  Male  buffaloes  are  widely  used  in  culti- 
vation. In  the  northern  taluks  animals  are  imported  from  Coorg  and 
Mysore,  and  they  are  bred  to  a  small  extent  in  the  Wynaad.  Cattle 
are  fed  mainly  on  rice  straw. 

The  cultivation  of  the  District  depends  on  the  practically  unfailing 
rainfall,  and  there  are  no  irrigation  works  of  any  importance.  '  Wet ' 
lands  are  irrigated  where  necessary  by  diverting  into  them  the  innumer- 
able streams  which  flow  down  the  valleys,  and  some  of  the  high-lying 
fields  by  baling  with  picottaks  from  small  reservoirs  and  wells.  A  few 
temporary  dams  are  constructed  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Ponnani 
river  and  its  tributaries  in  the  Palghat  and  Walavanad  taluks,  and 
a  little  land  is  irrigated  by  baling  from  the  same  river  throughout  its 
course.  Gardens  are  watered  by  hand  from  the  wells  which  most  of 
them  contain. 

Nearly  one-third  of  the  total  area  of  Malabar  is  occupied  by  forests 
The  forest  zone,  which  begins  about  5  miles  from  the  foot  of  the 
Western  Ghats  and  extends  to  the  eastern  boundaries 
of  the  District,  includes  both  evergreen  and  deciduous 
growth.  The  former  is  found  on  the  Ghats  and  the  slopes  of  the  hill 
ranges  in  the  north  of  the  Wynaad,  from  a  height  of  500  feet  upwards, 
the  region  of  very  heavy  rainfall  (over  200  inches).  The  principal 
timber  trees  in  the  evergreen  forests  are  ebony,  white  and  red  cedar, 
/////  {Calophyllum  inophyllum),  irimbogam  {Hopea  parviflora),  ai/ii 
(Artocarpus  hirsuta),  and  jack  (Artocarpus  integrifolia) ;  in  the  decidu- 
ous forests,  teak,  vengai  (Pterocarpus  Marsupium),  ventek  (Lagers troemia 
microcarpa),  black-wood  (Dalbergia  latifolia),  karimaradu  (Termtnalia 
tomentosa),  irul  (Xylia  dolabriformis),  as  well  as  jack  and  aim.  Minor 
forest  produce  includes  cardamoms,  dammar,  honey,  wax,  gall-nuts, 
soap-nuts,  gum  kino,  ginger,  cinnamon,  pepper,  &c.  Most  of  the 
forests  are  private  property,  and  their  produce  has  long  formed  an 
important  source  of  wealth  to  the  country  ;  but  continued  unscientific 
forestry  is  denuding  most  of  the  hills  of  their  valuable  trees,  as  it  has 
long  ago  denuded  the  bigger  isolated  hills  in  the  plains. 

The  Government  forests  cover  454  square  miles,  and  are  divided 
into  two  divisions,  North  and  South  Malabar,  each  under  a  separate 
Forest  officer.  The  former  includes  the  Wynaad  (199  square  miles  of 
forest)  and  Kottayam  (32  square  miles);  and  the  latter  Ernad  (161), 
Walavanad  (33),  and  Palghat  (29).     There  are  also  about  So  square 


64  MALABAR 

miles  of  '  reserved '  lands,  which  are  mainly  leased  forests.  The  most 
important  Reserves  are  in  the  north  of  the  Wynaad  and  at  Nilambiir 
(Ernad),  where  there  are  valuable  teak  plantations.  The  total  receipts 
from  Government  forests  in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  1,19,000,  includ- 
ing a  considerable  sum  from  the  sale  of  trapped  elephants. 

The  minerals  of  the  District  are  now  hardly  worked  at  all.  Iron  ore 
is  rudely  smelted  in  small  quantities  in  the  east  of  Ernad  and  Walava- 
nad.  Gold  seems  to  have  been  extensively  worked  by  the  natives  in 
ancient  times,  both  by  surface  washing  and  mining,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Bevpore  river,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  which  is  called  the  '  Gold  river,' 
and  up  the  slopes  of  the  Ghats  in  East  Ernad  and  South  Wynaad. 
The  soil  throughout  these  parts  is  auriferous,  and  there  are  numerous 
reefs  of  considerable  thickness.  About  1874  a  determined  attempt 
was  made  by  various  English  companies  to  establish  the  industry  by 
scientific  quartz-crushing  ;  but  none  of  the  mines  was  a  success.  At 
present  gold-working  is  confined  to  a  little  sand-washing  in  the  bed  of 
the  Beypore  river.  Mica  is  mined  to  a  small  extent  in  South  Wynaad. 
Laterite  is  quarried  throughout  the  District  for  building  purposes,  and 
clay  for  tiles  and  pottery  is  worked  in  most  of  the  taluks. 

Few  arts  of  importance  are  practised  in  the  District.     The  weaving 

of  calico,  which  derives  its  name  from  Calicut,  has  practically  died  out, 

though  coarse  cotton  cloths  for  local  use  are  made 

Trade  and        tQ   a   gmall    extent    jn    many   villages.      The    Basel 

communications.  .  r  ° 

Mission  has   weaving   establishments   at    Cannanore 

and  Calicut.  The  chief  indigenous  industries  are  the  manufacture  of 
yarn  from  coco-nut  husks,  the  husks  being  soaked  in  pits  in  the  back- 
waters and  the  fibre  beaten  out  by  hand;  toddy-drawing  from  coco-nut, 
sago,  and  palmyra  palms,  the  liquor  being  largely  drunk  by  the  lower 
castes  and  also  distilled  or  manufactured  into  coarse  sugar ;  fish-curing, 
which  is  mainly  in  the  hands  of  the  Mappillas  and  Mukkuvans,  and  is 
carried  on  at  31  Government  yards;  and  the  pressing  of  coco-nut  and 
gingelly  oils  in  small  mills  worked  by  bullocks. 

There  are  four  mission  and  three  native  factories  for  the  manufacture 
of  tiles,  bricks,  pipes,  <x:c.,  from  the  special  clays  found  in  the  District. 
Their  total  annual  output  is  valued  at  over  2  lakhs,  of  which  more  than 
90  per  cent,  comes  from  the  mission  establishments.  The  tiles  are 
widely  exported.  At  Calicut.  Tellicherry,  and  Ferokh  are  steam 
curing-works  belonging  to  various  European  firms,  at  which  coffee, 
cinchona,  pepper,  and  ginger  are  cured  and  dried.  The  value  of  the 
produce  dealt  with  at  these  factories  in  1902-3  was  estimated  at  over 
44  lakhs,  the  bulk  being  coffee  from  the  Wynaad,  Coorg,  Mysore,  and 
the  Nllgiris.  A  steam  spinning-mill  at  Calicut,  belonging  to  a  native 
company,  was  established  in  1883,  with  a  nominal  capital  of  6  lakhs; 
the  annual  out-turn  of  cotton  yarn  is  between  500  and  600  tons. 


TRADE  AND    COMMUNICATIONS  65 

Owing  to  its  extensive  seaboard,  the  maritime  commerce  of  the 
District  is  far  more  important  than  its  inland  trade.  The  chief  ports 
are  Cochin,  Calicut,  Tellicherry,  Cannanore,  Beypore,  Badagara,  and 
Ponnani.  The  total  value  of  the  exports  and  imports  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  512  lakhs  and  223  lakhs  respectively.  The  most  impor- 
tant exports  are  coffee,  coir  (coco-nut)  yarn  and  fibre,  and  pepper, 
which  together  make  up  over  half  the  total,  the  other  chief  articles 
being  tea,  cinchona,  ginger,  cardamoms,  copra  (dried  coco-nut  kernels), 
coconut  oil,  salted  fish,  wood,  and  tiles.  The  chief  imports  are  salt, 
rice  and  other  grain,  piece-goods,  cotton  twist  and  fabrics,  metal  ware, 
machinery,  glass,  hardware,  dyes,  drugs,  gunny,  and  kerosene  oil.  The 
bulk  of  the  ginger  trade  is  with  the  United  Kingdom,  but  pepper  is 
sent  largely  to  Italy,  France,  and  Germany,  coffee  to  France  and 
Australia,  coir  and  coco-nut  oil  to  Germany,  France,  and  the  United 
States,  and  sandal-wood  to  France,  Germany,  and  America.  Half  the 
coast  traffic  is  with  Bombay,  but  rice  is  largely  imported  from  Burma 
and  Bengal. 

The  Ghat  barrier  practically  confines  the  inland  trade  with  the 
eastern  Districts  to  the  route  through  the  Palghat  Gap,  and  most  of 
it  goes  by  rail.  Of  the  products  of  the  District,  coco-nut  oil,  salted 
fish,  and  timber,  and  of  its  imports  rice,  salt,  and  piece-goods,  are  the 
chief  articles  carried  by  rail ;  while  jaggery,  tobacco,  oilseeds,  sandal- 
wood, and  hides  are  the  chief  imports.  By  road,  cattle  are  imported 
from  Coimbatore,  and  rice  is  exported  from  the  Palghat  taluk,  while 
from  Mysore  and  Coorg  tea  and  coffee  come  down  to  the  coast, 
and  grain  and  cattle  are  received  in  exchange  for  piece-goods,  salt, 
and  coco-nut  oil. 

The  larger  ports  are  the  chief  centres  of  general  commerce,  and 
Palghat  concentrates  the  grain  and  cloth  trade  with  the  East  Coast. 
For  internal  trade  there  are  numerous  weekly  markets,  the  most  impor- 
tant of  which  are  at  Vaniamkulam  and  Chowghat.  The  sea-borne 
trade  is  largely  in  the  hands  of  European  firms  at  Calicut,  Cochin,  and 
Tellicherry.  Of  the  native  castes,  Mappillas  are  the  chief  traders ; 
but  numerous  ParsI,  Arab,  and  Gujarati  merchants  are  settled  on  the 
coast,  and  in  Palghat  are  found  some  Labbais  and  Chettis  from 
the  Tamil  country. 

The  south-west  line  of  the  Madras  Railway  (standard  gauge)  enters 
the  District  in  the  south-east  through  the  Palghat  Gap  and  runs  along 
the  Ponnani  river  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  sea,  and  then  turns  north 
and  follows  the  coast  to  Cannanore,  a  total  distance  of  157  miles.  The 
line  is  now  being  extended  into  South  Kanara.  From  Olavakod  a  small 
branch  of  2\  miles  runs  to  Palghat,  and  from  Shoranur  the  new  metre- 
gauge  line,  opened  by  the  Cochin  State  in  1902,  goes  to  Ernakulam. 

The  total  length  of  metalled  roads  in  the  District  is  606  miles,  and  of 


66  MALABAR 

unmetalled  roads  790  miles.  Of  the  metalled  roads,  70  miles  are  under 
the  charge  of  the  Public  Works  department  and  the  rest  are  maintained 
from  Local  funds.  There  are  avenues  of  trees  along  1,534  miles  of 
road,  including  by-roads  not  maintained  from  public  money.  The 
chief  lines  are  the  road  from  Calicut  to  the  Coimbatore  frontier 
through  Malappuram  and  Palghat ;  the  four  ghat  roads  from  Canna- 
nore,  Tellicherry,  and  Calicut  to  the  Mysore  and  Nilgiri  frontiers, 
through  the  Perambadi,  Peria,  Tamarasseri,  and  Karkur  passes  respec- 
tively ;  and  the  coast  road  from  the  South  Kanara  border  to  Beypore. 
The  District  as  a  whole  is  fairly  well  supplied  with  roads  except  in  the 
eastern  portions  of  the  four  northern  taluks,  the  inner  parts  of  Ernad 
and  Walavanad  having  been  opened  out  during  the  last  twenty  years  in 
connexion  with  the  suppression  of  Mappilla  outbreaks.  But  the  hilly 
nature  of  the  country  necessitates  a  large  number  of  made  roads  if 
communication  is  to  be  easy. 

Equally  important  with  the  roads  is  the  extensive  system  of  inland 
water  communication,  which  includes  the  Conolly  Canal  and  the 
Ponnani  and  Valarpattanam  rivers,  and  comprises  in  all  587  miles 
of  navigable  river  and  backwater,  connected  by  50  miles  of  canal.  The 
backwaters  are  not  deep,  and  the  canals  are  adapted  only  for  small 
boats,  being  mostly  from  10  to  12  feet  broad  and  very  shallow.  All 
the  traffic,  both  of  goods  and  passengers,  is  carried  in  primitive  native 
dug-outs. 

The  sea-borne  coasting  traffic  is  mainly  carried  in  native  craft  called 
pattamars.  There  are  39  ports  and  sub-ports,  but  these  afford  little 
protection  from  bad  weather  except  for  the  smaller  boats  that  can 
enter  the  mouths  of  the  rivers  on  which  many  of  them  are  situated. 
Coasting  steamers  of  the  British  India  and  Asiatic  lines  call  at  the 
chief  ports  frequently,  except  during  the  monsoon,  and  both  lines  carry 
passengers, 

Famine  in  the  strict  sense  is  unknown  in  Malabar,  since  the  south- 
west monsoon  never  fails.    But  though  the  District  exports  grain,  it  does 
.  not  produce  enough  for  its  own  consumption  ;  and  in 

a  time  of  scarcity  elsewhere  the  general  rise  in  the 
price  of  food-stuffs,  combined  with  the  increased  demand  from  neigh- 
bouring Districts,  is  liable  to  cause  distress  among  the  poorer  classes, 
especially  in  the  later  months  of  the  monsoon  when  field  labour  is  not 
required  and  the  new  harvest  is  not  available.  In  the  great  famine  of 
1876-7  high  prices  were  combined  with  a  serious  failure  of  the  second 
crop,  and  gratuitous  relief  had  to  be  given  widely.  Similar  measures 
were  necessary  to  a  small  extent  in  the  monsoon  of  1897,  when  an 
average  of  6,000  persons  were  fed  daily  for  five  months. 

For  general  administrative  purposes  the  District  is  grouped  into  six 
subdivisions.     Three  of  these  are  usually  in  charge   of  Covenanted 


ADMINISTRA  TIOX  6  7 

Civilians.     They   are   the   Palghat   subdivision,   comprising   the   Pal- 
chat  and  Ponna.ni  taluks ;  the  Malappuram  subdivision,  comprising 

Erxad  and  Walavanad  :  and  the  Tellicherry  sub-  .  . 

....  .    .  c  ._,       „  T^  Administration. 

division,  consisting  of  the   Chirakkal,  Kottayam, 

and  Kurumbranad  taluks.     The  remaining   three    subdivisions,    the 

Wyxaad,  Calicut,  and  Cochin,  formed  of  the  taluks  of  the  same  names, 

are  each  under  a  Deputy-Collector  recruited  in  India.     The  outlying 

ports  of  Anjengo  and  Tangasseri  were  also  included  in  the  charge  of 

the  Deputy-Collector  at  Cochin  till  1906,  when  they  were  constituted 

into  a  new  unit  called  the  District  of  Anjengo,  under  the  administrative 

control  of  the  Resident  in  Travancore  and  Cochin.     The  Laccadive 

Islands  fall  under  the  administration  of  the  Calicut  divisional  officer. 

For  judicial  purposes  the  District  is  divided  into  North  and  South 
Malabar,  with  District  Courts  at  Calicut  and  Tellicherry.  Subordinate 
to  the  former  are  three  Sub-Judges  and  twelve  District  Munsifs ;  and 
to  the  latter,  eight  Munsifs.  The  District  ranks  second  in  the  Presi- 
dency in  the  number  of  the  civil  suits  filed. 

Grave  crime  is  now  comparatively  rare  ;  but  since  1836  the  public 
peace  has  been  periodically  disturbed  by  outbreaks  among  the  Map- 
pillas.  Starting  with  the  murder  of  a  Hindu  landlord,  the  looting  of 
a  house,  or  the  defiling  of  a  Hindu  temple,  a  small  body  of  these  men 
will  run  riot  over  the  country,  gathering  adherents  as  they  go,  until 
finally  brought  to  bay,  when  the}-  invariably  sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as 
possible.  Experience  has  proved  that  Native  troops  cannot  be  relied 
on  to  deal  with  these  outbreaks;  and  since  1851  a  detachment  of 
British  infantry  has  been  stationed  at  Malappuram,  the  most  con- 
venient centre  of  the  menaced  tract,  and  in  the  same  year  a  special 
police  force  was  organized  for  their  suppression.  In  1852  the  Tangal 
(high-priest)  of  Tirurangadi,  who  was  suspected  of  fomenting  the 
disturbances,  was  banished  by  Mr.  Conolly,  the  District  Magistrate ; 
and  in  the  following  year  a  special  Act  was  passed  providing  for  the 
treatment  of  Mappilla  fanatics,  and  for  the  fining  of  the  villages  in 
which  outbreaks  should  occur.  Two  years  later  Mr.  Conolly  was 
murdered  in  his  veranda  by  a  body  of  fanatics  who  had  escaped  from 
the  Calicut  jail  The  Mappilla  Act  was  then  for  the  first  time  put  into 
force.  The  most  serious  outbreaks  in  recent  years  have  been  in  1S73 
at  Kolattur ;  in  1885  at  Trikkalur  in  the  Ernad  taluk,  when  twelve 
fanatics  took  up  a  strong  position  in  a  Hindu  temple  from  which  they 
were  only  dislodged  by  the  use  of  dynamite;  in  1894  at  Mannarakkat, 
when  the  gang  numbered  thirty-five  and  had  to  be  driven  from  their 
position  by  a  howitzer;  and  in  1896,  when  nearly  a  hundred  men  were 
shot  down  in  the  Manjeri  temple. 

Inquiries  show  that  though  agrarian  grievances,  such  as  eviction  by 
Hindu  landlords,   or  the  refusal  of  a  landowner  to  grant  a  site  for 


68  MALABAR 

a  mosque,  have  been  the  incentives  to  many  of  these  outbursts,  yet  in 
all  the  big  outbreaks  it  has  been  impossible  to  impute  any  definite 
motive  to  the  majority  of  those  who  joined  the  gang.  The  one  constant 
element  is  a  desperate  fanaticism  :  surrender  is  unknown  ;  the  martyrs 
are  consecrated  before  they  go  out  and  hymned  after  death.  Other 
noticeable  features  are  that  the  gang  mainly  consists  of  men,  or  boys,  of 
the  lowest  class ;  while  with  few  exceptions  the  outbreaks  have  origi- 
nated within  a  radius  of  15  miles  round  Pandalur,  a  hill  in  Ernad  which 
was  the  home  of  one  of  the  chief  Mappilla  robbers  who  disturbed  the 
early  years  of  British  supremacy.  It  lies  amid  large  tracts  of  uncleared 
jungle,  which  have  long  attracted  the  unsuccessful  Mappillas,  who  are 
crowded  out  of  their  villages  in  the  west,  and  who  remain  for  the  most 
part  ignorant  and  destitute  and  ready  on  slight  provocation  to  let  their 
smouldering  fanaticism  kindle. 

Special  efforts  have  been  made  for  many  years  to  encourage  educa- 
tion and  to  open  up  the  country  in  the  fanatical  zone  ;  but  the  natural 
characteristics  of  the  District  and  its  inhabitants  make  progress  in 
either  of  these  directions  necessarily  slow.  Two  regiments  of  Map- 
pillas recently  raised  for  the  Indian  Army  have  been  disbanded. 

In  Malabar,  unlike  other  Districts  of  Southern  India,  the  Hindu 
rulers  appear  to  have  levied  no  regular  land  revenue,  but  to  have 
contented  themselves  with  customs  and  tolls  and  with  the  occasional 
levy  of  special  contributions.  The  Nayars  quickly  attained  pre-eminence 
among  the  various  immigrant  tribes,  and  organized  the  country  on 
a  military  basis,  dividing  it  into  nads,  each  under  its  Nayar  chief,  who 
in  return  for  military  service  granted  his  vassals  fiefs  held  free  of  land 
revenue  and  carrying  with  them  various  administrative  and  other 
privileges.  The  chiefs  themselves  retained  domains  for  their  own 
support.  This  organization  was  probably  not  disturbed  by  the  Brahman 
immigration,  though  the  Brahmans  in  Malabar,  as  elsewhere,  attained 
great  influence  and  received  large  grants  of  land  for  their  own  support 
and  the  maintenance  of  their  temples ;  and  the  feudal  system  seems 
to  have  continued  both  when  the  nads  were  combined  into  a  kingdom, 
and  when,  on  the  abdication  of  the  last  of  the  Perumals,  the  country 
was  again  split  up  into  nads.  As  the  influence  of  the  Rajas  who 
succeeded  to  the  Chera  kings  declined,  the  process  of  disintegration 
continued,  and  the  fief-holders  and  Brahman  landowners  naturally 
claimed  independent  lordship  of  their  lands  ;  and  these  formed  the 
majority  of  the  jantnis  (landowners)  on  whose  share  of  the  produce 
the  Mysore  assessment  was  eventually  levied. 

Haidar  All,  on  his  conquest  of  the  District  at  the  end  of  the 
eighteenth  century,  proceeded  to  introduce  a  regular  system  of  land 
revenue.  The  various  nads  were,  however,  settled  at  different  times 
and  according  to  no  definite  system.     The  principle  was  to  take  for 


ADMIA  7.9  TRA  TIOX  69 

the  government  revenue  a  share  in  money  of  the  janmVs  rent,  or  pattom ; 
but  the  share  appears  to  have  varied  from  10  per  cent,  on  some  'wet' 
lands  in  North  Malabar  to  100  per  cent,  on  gardens  in  South  Malabar- 
The  rate  of  commuting  into  money  the  rents  paid  in  kind  likewise 
varied  in  the  different  ndds,  while  in  North  Malabar  the  collection  was 
entrusted  to  the  chiefs  of  the  adds  and  in  South  Malabar  to  Muham- 
madan  officials. 

On  the  cession  of  the  District  to  the  British,  the  Commissioners 
appointed  to  settle  the  country  adopted  the  Muhammadan  revenue 
assessment.  During  1792-3  the  Zamorin  and  other  Rajas  were  allowed 
to  collect  the  revenue;  and  in  1794  a  system  of  quinquennial  settle- 
ment with  the  Rajas  of  the  nads,  based  on  the  Muhammadan  accounts 
prepared  in  17S2,  was  introduced.  The  zamlndari  system,  however, 
failed  to  work ;  the  Government  resumed  the  collection  of  the  revenue, 
and,  owing  to  the  continued  complaints  of  inequality,  the  Collector 
appointed  in  1801  set  himself  to  revise  the  whole  assessment  on  regular 
principles.  On  '  wet '  lands  one-third  of  the  net  produce,  after  deduct- 
ing cultivation  expenses,  was  to  go  to  the  cultivator,  and  the  remainder 
or  pattom  was  to  be  divided  in  the  proportion  of  six-tenths  to  the 
Government  and  four-tenths  to  the  janmi.  On  paramba  lands  the  gross 
produce  of  the  trees  was  to  be  divided  in  three  equal  shares  between 
the  cultivator,  the  janmi,  and  the  Government.  These  principles  were 
approved  and  a  proclamation  issued  accordingly  in  1805;  but  the 
settlement  was  not  proceeded  with,  as  it  was  decided  that  the  existing 
assessment  was  adequate  and  not  unpopular.  Subsequently  a  settle- 
ment of  garden  lands  on  these  lines  was  taken  in  hand  and  introduced 
into  various  taluks  between  1829  and  1840;  and  in  the  Kurumbranad 
taluk  this  settlement  was  revised  in  1853.  Otherwise  the  Muham- 
madan settlement  of  1776  remained  in  force  till  1900,  when  the  intro- 
duction of  a  new  settlement  was  begun,  based  on  a  scientific  survey 
conducted  between  1887  and  1895  and  following  the  principles  of  the 
ryotwari  settlements  of  the  other  Districts  of  the  Presidency. 

In  the  new  settlement  the  cultivable  land  has  been  divided  into 
'  wet,'  '  garden,'  and  '  dry  ' ;  and  acreage  rates,  based  on  the  Government 
share  of  the  produce  claimed  in  the  proclamation  of  1805,  have  been 
assigned.  The  new  rates  were  introduced  throughout  the  District  by 
the  end  of  1903-4.  The  result  will  be  an  enhancement  of  the  land 
revenue  by  about  76  per  cent.,  or  13  lakhs,  an  increase  which  is  to  be 
attributed  to  the  rise  in  prices  during  a  period  of  more  than  a  century 
and  to  the  increase  in  the  area  brought  under  permanent  assessment, 
which  amounts  to  about  50  per  cent,  above  the  area  shown  in  the  old 
accounts.  Under  the  old  settlement  '  wet '  rates  varied  from  4  annas 
to  Rs.  40  per  acre,  the  average  being  Rs.  3  ;  for  gardens  and  '  dry ' 
land  no  accurate  acreage  rates  are  obtainable.     Under  the  new  settle- 


7o 


MALABAR 


ment  the  'dry'  assessment  averages  (excluding  the  Wynaad)  R.  0-13-2 
per  acre  (maximum  Rs.  2,  minimum  4  annas),  the  '  wet '  assessment 
Rs.  3-8-1 1  (maximum  Rs.  7-8-0,  minimum  12  annas),  and  the  '  garden  ' 
assessment  Rs.  2-15-3  (maximum  Rs.  7,  minimum  R.  1). 

The  revenue  from  land  and  the  total  revenue  in  recent  years  are 
given  below,  in  thousands  of  rupees:  — 


1880-1. 

1 890- 1. 

1 900-1. 

•903-4- 

Land  revenue     . 
Total  revenue    . 

2i,39 
35,88 

20,95 
38,07 

23,94 
46,64 

29>97 
54,55 

The  landlord's  right  in  the  soil  is  held  to  vest  in  the  janmi.  The 
word janmam,  literally  meaning  'birth,'  perhaps  carries  with  it  the  idea 
of  hereditary  ownership.  The  probable  evolution  of  the  janmi  as  land- 
lord has  been  sketched  above.  As  now  interpreted  by  the  Courts, 
janmam  right  means  the  proprietary  interest  of  the  landlord  in  the  soil, 
and  is  freely  bought  and  sold  :  but  the  idea  of  property  in  land  is  of 
comparatively  modern  growth.  The  commonest  form  of  tenure  under 
the  janmi  is  kanam,  which  word  seems  to  mean  literally  'visible  pro- 
perty,' and  to  be  applied  to  the  sum  lent  by  a  tenant  to  his  landlord, 
or,  originally,  to  the  present  brought  by  a  retainer  to  his  chief  in  return 
for  protection.  As  now  defined  by  the  Courts,  a  kanam  implies 
a  usufructuary  mortgage  entitling  the  mortgagee  to  a  twelve  years' 
occupancy  with  a  right  to  his  improvements,  subject  to  the  payment 
of  an  annual  rent  to  the  mortgagor.  There  are  various  subsidiary 
forms,  differing  according  to  the  interest  in  the  land  secured  to  the 
mortgagor.  The  ordinary  forms  of  simple  lease  (verumpattoni)  and 
mortgage  {panayam)  are  now  becoming  common. 

Outside  the  five  municipalities  of  Calicut,  Cochin,  Caxxaxore, 
Palghat,  and  Tellicherrv,  local  affairs  are  managed  by  the  District 
board  and  the  taluJi  boards  of  the  five  subdivisions  of  Tellicherry, 
Calicut,  Malappuram,  Palghat,  and  Wynaad.  The  expenditure  of  the 
boards  in  1903-4  was  nearly  4  A  lakhs,  more  than  half  of  which  was 
laid  out  on  roads  and  buildings.  The  chief  sources  of  income  are  the 
land  cess  and  toll  and  ferry  collections,  yielding  nearly  2-67  and  1-59 
lakhs  respectively.  The  District  possesses  none  of  the  Unions  common 
on  the  East  Coast,  few  of  its  villages  being  built  in  the  close  order 
which  demands  expenditure  on  sanitation. 

The  District  Superintendent  of  police  is  assisted  by  three  Assistant 
Superintendents,  stationed  at  Palghat,  Malappuram,  and  Tellicherry. 
There  are  105  police  stations  in  the  District  and  2  outposts.  The  force 
consists  of  24  inspectors,  3  European  head  constables,  141  head  con- 
stables, and  1,125  constables.  The  special  force  reorganized  in  1885 
for  the  suppression  of  the  Mappilla  outbreaks,  with  its  head-quarters  at 


A  D  MINIS  TRA  TION  7 1 

Malappuram,  consists  of  one  inspector,  4  European  head  constables, 
4  head  constables,  and  81  constables. 

The  Central  jail  is  at  Cannanore,  while  21  subsidiary  jails  have 
a  total  accommodation  for  527  prisoners. 

According  to  the  Census  of  1901,  Malabar  stands  fourth  among 
Madras  Districts  in  the  literacy  of  its  population,  of  whom  10  per  cent. 
(17-4  males  and  3-0  females)  are  able  to  read  and  write.  Education 
is  most  advanced  in  the  coast  taluks,  and  most  backward  in  the  Wynaad, 
with  its  many  coolies  and  hillmen,  and  in  Ernad,  the  most  distinctively 
Mappilla  taluk.  The  total  number  of  pupils  under  instruction  in 
1880-1  was  31,894;  in  1890-1,  70,329;  in  1900-1,  84,408;  and  in 
1903-4,  91,661,  including  19,331  girls.  On  March  31,  1904,  there 
were  (besides  564  private  schools)  1,038  public  educational  institutions 
of  all  kinds,  including  954  primary,  75  secondary,  and  6  training  and 
special  schools,  and  the  three  Arts  colleges  at  Calicut,  Palghat,  and 
Tellicherry.  Of  the  public  institutions,  24  were  managed  by  the 
Educational  department,  96  by  local  boards,  and  50  by  municipalities  : 
while  639  were  aided  from  public  funds,  and  229  were  unaided  but 
conformed  to  the  rules  of  the  department.  As  usual,  the  vast  majority 
of  those  under  instruction  are  only  in  primary  classes,  though  Malabar 
stands  third  among  Madras  Districts  in  the  proportion  of  pupils  under 
secondary  instruction.  Of  the  male  population  of  school-going  age 
24  per  cent,  were  under  instruction  in  primary  standards  in  1903-4, 
and  of  the  female  population  of  the  same  age  nearly  7  per  cent.  Among 
Musalmans,  the  corresponding  percentages  were  35  and  10  respectively. 
Eew  of  these  have  advanced  beyond  the  primary  stage,  and  a  large  pro- 
portion receive  instruction  only  in  the  Koran.  The  total  number  of 
female  pupils  exceeded  that  of  any  other  District.  There  were  22 
primary  schools  for  Panchama  boys,  with  908  pupils.  The  total  expen- 
diture on  education  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  5,18,000,  of  which  Rs.  2,10,000 
was  derived  from  fees.  Of  the  total,  53  per  cent,  was  devoted  to 
primary  education. 

The  District  possesses  14  hospitals  and  9  dispensaries,  including 
a  leper  hospital  at  Palliport  (Pallipuram),  near  Cochin,  founded  by 
the  Dutch  in  1728.  They  contain  in  all  accommodation  for  419  in- 
patients. In  1903  the  total  number  of  cases  treated  was  261,000,  of 
whom  5,100  were  in-patients,  and  10,000  operations  were  performed. 
The  total  expenditure  amounted  to  Rs.  78,000,  the  great  part  of  which 
was  met  from  Local  and  municipal  funds. 

Malabar  is  backward  in  regard  to  vaccination.  Statistics  for  1 903-4 
show  that  the  number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  was  23  per 
1,000,  compared  with  an  average  for  the  Presidency  of  30.  Vaccination 
is  compulsory  only  in  the  municipalities. 

[Eor  further  information   regarding  the   District,   see  Malabar,   by 


72 


MALABAR 


W.  Logan  (1887),  and  Malabar  Law  and  Custom,  by  H.  Wigram  and 
L.  Moore  (Madras,  1900).] 

Malaisohmat. — Petty  State  in  the  Khasi  Hills,  Eastern  Bengal  and 
Assam.  The  population  in  1901  was  491,  and  the  gross  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  200.  The  principal  products  are  rice,  millet,  bay 
leaves,  areca-nuts,  and  oranges.  There  are  deposits  of  lime  in  the 
State,  but  they  are  not  worked. 

Malakand. — A  pass  which  crosses  the  range  north  of  Peshawar 
District,  North-West  Frontier  Province,  and  leads  from  Sam  Ranizai 
into  the  Swat  valley,  situated  in  340  34'  N.  and  710  57'  E.  The  pass 
is  traversed  by  an  ancient  Buddhist  road.  Early  in  the  sixteenth 
century  the  Ytisufzai  Pathans  effected  their  entrance  into  Swat  by  the 
Malakand,  and  in  1587  Zain  Khan,  a  general  of  the  emperor  Akbar, 
built  a  fort  here.  In  1895  the  pass  was  taken  by  the  Chitral  relief 
force,  and  has  since  been  occupied  as  a  military  post,  near  which  is 
also  the  head-quarters  of  the  Dir,  Swat,  and  Chitral  Political  Agency. 
On  July  26,  1897,  the  post  was  suddenly  attacked  by  a  large  gathering 
of  Swatis  under  a  fanatical  leader,  the  Mulla  Mastan  or  '  Mad  Mulla.' 
Tribesmen  from  Utman  Khel  and  Upper  Swat  poured  in,  raising  the 
numbers  to  12,000  men.  Fighting  continued  until  August  1,  when 
the  tribes  were  repulsed.  Chakdarra,  which  also  was  besieged  by  the 
tribesmen,  was  relieved  the  next  day. 

Malambi  (or  Malimbi). — A  fine  conical  hill  in  the  north-east  of 
Coorg,  Southern  India,  situated  in  12°  40'  N.  and  750  58'  E.,  4,488 
feet  high,  conspicuous  in  all  that  part  of  the  country. 

Malanggarh  (Bawa  Making). — Hill  fortress  in  the  Kalyan  taluka 
of  Thana  District,  Bombay,  situated  in  190  7'  N.  and  730  13'  E., 
10  miles  south  of  Kalyan  town.  It  is  known  also  as  the  Cathedral 
Rock.  Like  most  of  the  Thana  hill  forts,  Malanggarh  rises  in  a 
succession  of  bare  stony  slopes,  broken  by  walls  of  rocks  and  belts 
of  level  woodland.  It  is  most  easily  reached  from  Kalyan  across 
a  rough  roadless  tract  of  about  8  miles,  ending  in  a  climb  of  a  per- 
pendicular height  of  about  700  feet.  Connected  with  the  base  of  the 
hill  is  a  forest-covered  table-land,  upon  which  is  the  tomb  of  the  Bawa 
Malang.  At  the  time  of  Captain  Dickinson's  survey  in  1818,  there 
were  a  few  dwellings  for  the  garrison  here,  of  which  the  ruined  sites 
alone  remain.  From  this  table-land  the  ascent  to  the  lower  fort  is  very 
steep,  and  upwards  of  300  feet  high.  The  latter  part  is  by  an  almost 
perpendicular  rock-hewn  staircase,  at  the  top  of  which  is  a  strong  gate- 
way covered  by  two  outstanding  towers,  enabling  even  the  smallest 
garrison  to  make  the  place  impregnable.  From  the  lower  to  the  upper 
fort  there  is  a  perpendicular  ascent  of  200  feet  by  means  of  a  narrow 
llight  of  rock-hewn  steps,  on  the  face  of  a  precipice  so  steep  as  to 
make  the  ascent  at  all  times  most  difficult  and  dangerous.     The  upper 


MALAVALLI   TOWN 


73 


fort,  a  space  of  200  yards  long  by  about  70  broad,  is  nothing  more 
than  the  top,  as  it  were,  of  the  third  hill.  It  has  no  fortifications,  but 
there  are  traces  of  an  enclosure  and  of  the  walls  of  an  old  building. 
The  water-supply  is  from  a  range  of  five  cisterns,  and  a  copper  pipe 
is  used  to  carry  water  to  the  lower  fort.  A  yearly  fair,  held  here  in 
February,  is  attended  by  both  Hindus  and  Muhammadans. 

Malappuram  Subdivision.  —  Subdivision  of  Malabar  District, 
Madras,  consisting  of  the  Erxad  and  Walavanad  taluks. 

Malappuram  Town. — Town  in  the  Ernad  taluk  of  Malabar  Dis- 
trict, Madras,  situated  in  n°  4'  N.  and  76°  4'  E.,  31  miles  south-ea^t 
of  Calicut,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  good  road.  Population 
(1901),  9,216.  It  is  notable  as  the  centre  for  many  years  of  the 
Mappilla  fanatical  outbreaks.  A  detachment  of  British  troops  has 
been  stationed  here  since  1873,  and  a  special  police  force  since  1885. 
The  chief  buildings  are  the  churches  (Protestant  and  Roman  Catho- 
lic), the  divisional  officer  and  magistrate's  court,  the  barracks,  and  the 
office  of  the  Assistant  Superintendent  of  police.  A  weekly  market  is 
held  here. 

Malavalli  Taluk. — Eastern  taluk  of  Mysore  District,  Mysore  State, 
lying  between  120  13'  and  120  33'  N.  and  760  54'  and  77°  20'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  391  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  101,779, 
compared  with  85,910  in  1891.  The  taluk  contains  one  town,  Mala- 
valli (population,  7,270),  the  head-quarters;  and  231  villages.  The 
land  revenue  demand  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  97,000.  The  Cauvery  forms 
part  of  the  southern  boundary,  receiving  from  the  north  the  Shimsha, 
into  which  all  the  waters  of  the  taluk  flow.  About  the  middle  of  the 
southern  boundary  are  situated  the  Falls  of  the  Cauvery,  on  either 
side  of  the  island  of  Sivasamudram.  The  taluk  generally  is  an  un- 
dulating plain,  except  in  the  south-east,  where  there  are  a  State  forest 
and  several  high  hills,  including  Kabbaldurga  (3,507  feet).  In  the 
south-west  is  Kundurbetta  (3,129  feet).  The  soil  is  rocky  and  shallow 
in  the  south-east  and  north  west,  generally  red  mixed  with  sand  else- 
where, and  improves  in  the  south-west,  where  there  is  some  black  soil. 
Mulberry  is  the  chief  garden  crop.  Some  land  is  irrigated  by  channels. 
The  Cauvery  Power-works  at  Sivasamudram  have  recently  attracted 
population. 

Malavalli  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name 
in  Mysore  District,  Mysore,  situated  in  12°  23'  N.  and  77°  4'  E., 
18  miles  south  of  Maddur  railway  station.  Population  (1901),  7,270. 
In  the  seventeenth  century  it  was  an  important  place,  with  a  large 
fort,  now  ruinous.  Haidar  All  gave  Malavalli  in  jdgir  to  his  son 
Tipu,  who  planted  a  large  fruit  garden  near  the  tank,  now  occupied 
by  paddy-fields.  To  the  west  of  the  town  took  place  the  battle  in 
which  Tipu  Sultan  was  defeated  by  the  British  in   1799.     After  the 


74  MALAVALLI  TOWN 

action  he  had  the  place  destroyed,  to  prevent  its  being  of  any  use 
to  the  British.  The  establishment  of  the  Cauvery  Power-works  at 
Sivasamudram  has  revived  the  importance  of  Malavalli.  A  small 
Faith  Mission  has  a  station  here.  The  municipality  dates  from  1873. 
The  receipts  and  expenditure  during  the  ten  years  ending  1901 
averaged  Rs.  1,700.     In  1903-4  they  were  Rs.  2,100  and  Rs.  1,600. 

Malavalli  Village. — Village  in  the  Shikarpur  taluk  of  Shimoga 
District,  Mysore,  situated  in  140  29'  N.  and  750  19'  E.,  20  miles  north- 
west of  Shikarpur  town.  Population  (1901),  500.  It  is  of  interest  on 
account  of  the  Satakarni  inscription  found  on  a  pillar,  probably  of  the 
second  century,  the  oldest  in  Mysore  next  to  the  edicts  of  Asoka. 
From  this  it  appears  that  the  village  was  then  called  Mattapatti. 

Malayagiri. — The  highest  peak  in  Orissa,  Bengal,  situated  in  the 
Pal  Lahara  Tributary  State,  in  210  22'  N.  and  850  16'  E.  The  hill, 
which  is  3,895  feet  above  the  sea,  is  isolated  and  commands  a  magnifi- 
cent view  over  the  surrounding  country.  Water  is  obtainable  near  the 
summit,  on  which  there  is  space  for  building  sites. 

Malcolmpeth.  —  Sanitarium  in  Satara  District,  Bombay.  See 
Mahabaleshwar. 

Malda  District  (Maldaha). — District  in  the  Rajshahi  Division  of 
Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  lying  between  240  30'  and  250  32'  N. 
and  870  46'  and  88°  31/  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,899  square  miles.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  north-western  corner  by  Purnea  District  and  on 
the  north-eastern  by  Dinajpur ;  Rajshahi  lies  to  the  south-east,  while 
the  Ganges  forms  a  continuous  western  and  south-western  boundary 
separating  it  from  the  Santal  Parganas  and  Murshidabad. 

The  Mahananda  flows  through  the  District  from  north  to  south, 
dividing  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts  which  present  very  different 
characteristics.  "West  of  the  river  the  surface  is  com- 
asnects  posed  of  the  newer  alluvium  and   is  comparatively 

low,  a  great  deal  of  it  having  been  subject  to  fluvial 
action  in  very  recent  times  ;  the  Ganges  once  washed  the  walls  of 
Gaur,  but  it  now  flows  16  miles  farther  west.  The  eastern  half  of  the 
District  lies  in  the  older  alluvium  of  the  Barind,  and  has  a  stiff  clay 
soil  and  high  undulating  surface,  broken  by  the  deep  valleys  of  the 
Tangan  and  Piirnabhaba  and  their  tributary  streams  ;  towards  the 
south  in  the  Nawabganj  thana,  as  in  other  portions  of  the  District 
bordering  on  the  Ganges,  the  surface  declines  into  the  newer  alluvium. 
The  Ganges  skirts  the  District,  forming  a  natural  boundary  from  the 
north-west  corner  to  the  extreme  south.  Its  flood-waters,  as  deflected 
from  the  hills  of  Rajmahal,  are  perpetually  cutting  away  the  Malda 
bank,  which  is  everywhere  low  and  composed  of  loose  sand.  Among 
many  former  channels  and  deserted  backwaters  the  little  winding 
stream  of  the  Bhaglrathi  (also  called  the  Chhoti  Bhagirathi)  deserves 


MALDA  DISTRICT  75 

mention,  as  being  the  historical  river-bed  which  defended  the  city 
of  Gaur.  This  is  almost  dry  in  the  winter,  but  becomes  navigable 
for  country  boats  during  the  rainy  season.  It  ultimately  joins  the 
Pagla  or  Pagli,  a  larger  branch  of  the  Ganges,  which  runs  in  a 
meandering  course  to  the  south-east,  and  encloses,  before  it  regains 
the  Ganges,  a  large  island  about  16  miles  long.  The  Pagla  is  navigable 
during  the  rains,  but  in  the  dry  season  it  retains  no  current  and 
becomes  fordable  at  many  points.  The  Mahananda  enters  Malda 
from  Purnea  and  joins  the  Ganges  at  the  south-eastern  corner  of  the 
District.  Its  tributaries  are,  on  the  right  bank,  the  Kalindn,  and  on 
the  left  bank,  the  Tangan  and  Pumabhaba,  which  bring  down  the 
drainage  of  Dinajpur.  The  Mahananda  flows  in  a  deep  and  well- 
defined  channel  between  high  banks,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  about 
400  to  800  yards.  At  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  the  melting  of  the 
snows  in  the  mountains,  combined  with  the  local  rainfall,  causes 
the  river  to  rise  as  much  as  30  feet,  and  an  embankment  has  been 
constructed  just  above  the  civil  station  of  English  Bazar  to  protect 
it  from  inundation.  There  are  no  lakes ;  but  old  channels  of  the 
Ganges  are  numerous,  and  between  Gaur  and  the  Mahananda  there 
are  extensive  undrained  swamps. 

The  District  is  covered  with  alluvium.  The  Barind  belongs  to  an 
older  alluvial  formation,  which  is  usually  composed  of  massive  argil- 
laceous beds  of  a  rather  pale  reddish-brown  hue,  often  weathering 
yellowish,  disseminated  throughout  which  occur  kankar  and  pisolitic 
ferruginous  concretions.  The  low-lying  country  to  the  west  of  the 
Mahananda  and  in  the  south  is  of  more  recent  formation,  consisting 
of  sandy  clay  and  sand  along  the  course  of  the  rivers,  and  of  fine  silt 
consolidating  into  clay  in  the  flatter  parts  of  the  river  plain. 

Where  the  ground  is  not  occupied  by  the  usual  crops  of  North 
Bengal,  it  is  covered  with  an  abundant  natural  vegetation,  except  in 
the  sandy  beds  of  the  greater  rivers.  Old  river-beds,  however,  ponds 
and  marshes,  and  streams  with  a  sluggish  current  have  a  copious 
vegetation  of  Vallisneria  and  other  plants.  Land  subject  to  inundation 
has  usually  a  covering  of  Tamarix  and  reedy  grasses,  and  in  some 
parts  where  the  ground  is  more  or  less  marshy  Rosa  involucrata  is 
plentiful.  Few  trees  occur  on  these  inundated  lands  ;  the  most 
plentiful  and  the  largest  is  Barringtonia  acutangula.  Near  villages 
thickets  or  shrubberies  of  semi-spontaneous  growth  and  more  or  less 
useful  trees  of  a  rapid  growth  and  weedy  character  are  common.  No 
Government  forests  exist,  but  portions  of  the  Barind  are  covered 
with  jungle  known  locally  as  katal.  This  consists  chiefly  of  thorny 
bush  jungle,  mixed  with  an  abundance  of  pipal  (Fiats  religiosa). 
banyan  {Fiats  indica),  red  cotton-tree  (Bombax  ma/adaricum),  pakar- 
trees,  and  nipal  bamboos. 

VOL.  XVII.  F 


7 6  MALDA  DISTRICT 

Malda  was  once  celebrated  for  its  large  game  and  especially  for  tigers. 
Owing,  however,  to  the  clearing  of  the  katal  jungle  and  to  the  extension 
of  cultivation,  tigers  are  now  rarely  met  with,  though  leopards  still 
abound  and  frequently  make  their  appearance  even  in  the  outskirts 
of  the  civil  station.  Wild  hog  and  spotted  deer  are  also  common,  and 
wild  buffaloes  are  occasionally  seen,  though  they  have  become  very 
rare.  The  swamps  and  ancient  tanks  of  the  District  are  infested  with 
big  crocodiles ;  and  the  larger  swamps  are  frequented  by  game-birds 
of  almost  every  species  found  in  Bengal. 

The  climate  is  not  characterized  by  extremes  of  heat  or  rainfall. 
Mean  temperature  increases  from  630  in  January  to  86°  in  May,  the 
average  for  the  year  being  780.  The  highest  mean  maximum  is  970  in 
April  and  the  lowest  500  in  January.  The  annual  rainfall  averages 
57  inches,  of  which  4-7  inches  fall  in  May,  9-7  in  June,  13-4  in  July, 
1 1-2  in  August  and  September,  and  3-4  in  October. 

Except  in  August,  1885,  when  an  exceptional  rising  of  the  Ganges 
caused  great  destruction  of  crops  over  about  300  square  miles  in  the 
south  and  south-west  of  the  District,  no  serious  flood  has  occurred  in 
recent  years.  In  the  earthquake  of  1897  all  the  masonry  houses 
in  English  Bazar  and  Old  Malda  were  damaged,  the  cost  of  repairs 
to  public  buildings  being  estimated  at  Rs.  11,000,  while  private  build- 
ings suffered  to  the  extent  of  2\  lakhs.  In  the  diara  lands  cracks 
opened  some  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  in  the  higher  lands  subsidences 
occurred  in  a  few  places. 

The  area  included  within  Malda  District  contains  two  of  the  great 
capitals  of  the  early  Muhammadan  rulers  of  Bengal ;  and  at  the  present 
day  the  sites  of  Gaur  and  Pandua  exhibit  some  of 
the  most  interesting  remains  in  the  Province.  The 
country  originally  formed  part  of  the  kingdom  of  Pundra  or  Paundra- 
vardhana,  the  country  of  the  Pods,  and  subsequently  of  the  Baren- 
dra  division  of  Bengal  under  Ballal  Sen.  To  this  king  is  attributed 
the  building  of  the  city  of  Gaur,  which  under  his  son  Lakshman  Sen 
received  the  name  of  LakshmanavatI  or  Lakhnauti.  Muhammad-i- 
Bakhtyar  Khiljl,  who  invaded  Bengal  at  the  end  of  the  twelfth  century, 
expelled  Lakshman  Sen  and  moved  the  capital  from  Nadia.  to  Gaur. 
About  1350  Shams-ud-dln  Ilyas  transferred  the  capital  to  Pandua, 
where  it  remained  for  about  70  years  till  Jalal-ud-dln  restored  it  to 
Gaur  ;  but  with  this  exception  Gaur  continued,  in  spite  of  many 
vicissitudes,  to  be  the  capital  of  the  viceroys  and  kings  of  Bengal  till 
1564,  when  Sulaiman  KararanI  removed  the  seat  of  government  to 
Tanda,  a  few  miles  to  the  south-west  of  Gaur.  Munim  Khan,  after 
defeating  Daud  Khan  in  1575,  occupied  Gaur;  but  a  pestilence  broke 
out  in  which  thousands  died  every  day,  and  the  survivors  fled,  never 
to  return  to  their  deserted  homes.     After  this  Tanda  apparently  con- 


POPULATIOX  77 

tinned  to  be  the  capital,  but  a  few  years  later  Rajmahal  was  made  the 
seat  of  government.  The  very  site  of  Tanda  is  now  unknown,  though 
it  seems  to  have  been  an  important  place  for  about  a  hundred  years 
after  the  depopulation  of  Gaur ;  in  its  neighbourhood  was  fought  the 
decisive  battle  in  which  prince  Shuja  was  defeated  by  the  generals  of 
Aurangzeb  in  1660.  The  East  India  Company  established  a  factory 
at  Malda  as  early  as  1676,  by  the  side  of  a  Dutch  factory  already  in 
existence  there.  In  1683,  when  it  was  visited  by  William  Hedge-, 
(who  spent  a  day  in  exploring  the  ruins  of  Gaur),  the  number  of  fact 
was  three1.  In  1770  English  Bazar  was  fixed  upon  for  a  Commercial 
Residency,  and  continued  to  be  a  place  of  importance  until  the  discon- 
tinuance of  the  Company's  private  trade  ;  the  fortified  structure  which 
was  originally  used  as  the  Residency  is  now  occupied  by  the  courts 
and  public  offices.  As  an  administrative  unit  the  District  only  came 
into  existence  in  1813,  when,  in  order  to  secure  a  closer  magisterial 
supervision,  various  police  circles  were  detached  from  the  Districts 
of  Rajshahi,  Dinajpur,  and  Purnea  and  placed  in  charge  of  a  Joint- 
Magistrate  and  Deputy-Collector  stationed  at  English  Bazar.  A 
separate  treasury  was  first  opened  in  1832,  but  it  was  not  till  1859  that 
a  Magistrate-Collector  was  appointed  to  the  District.  Anomalies 
remained  in  the  revenue,  criminal,  and  civil  jurisdiction  which  were 
not  adjusted  till  1875,  and  since  that  time  there  have  been  only  a 
few  unimportant  transfers  of  jurisdiction.  In  1905  the  District  was 
transferred  from  the  Bhagalpur  Division  of  Bengal  to  the  Rajshahi 
Division  of  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam. 

Malda  is  considered  less  unhealthy  than  the  adjoining  Districts  of 
Purnea,  Dinajpur,  and  Rajshahi ;  but  it  is  very  malarious,  especially 
in  the  undrained  swamps  between  Gaur  and  the 
Mahananda,  and  in  the  jungly  tract  to  the  east. 
Malarial  fever  generally  breaks  out  on  the  cessation  of  the  rains  ;  and 
in  six  years  out  of  the  ten  ending  1900  it  was  one  of  the  six  Dis- 
tricts in  Bengal  from  which  the  highest  fever  mortality  was  reported  ; 
in  1899  it  headed  the  list  with  a  recorded  mortality  from  fever  of  41-7 
per  1,000.  Cholera  is  often  rife,  and  a  specially  bad  outbreak  occurred 
in  1899  in  English  Bazar. 

The  population  has  risen  from  677,328  in  1872  to  711,487  in  1SS1, 
to  814,919  in  1891,  and  to  884,030  in  1901.  It  is  thus  growing  rapidly 
in  spite  of  the  unhealthy  conditions  prevailing,  and  the  density  in  1901 
was  466  persons  per  square  mile.  The  increase  during  the  decade 
ending  with  that  year  amounted  to  8^  per  cent.,  being  greatest  in  the 
Gajol  and  Old  Malda  thanas  in  the  Barind,  where  Santals  are  settling 
in  large  numbers ;  this  tract  is  still,  however,  the  least  densely  popu- 
lated part  of  the  District.     In  the  Kaliachak  and  Sibganj  thanas  in  the 

1  Hedges 's  Diary,  vol.  i,  pp.  87-9. 
F  2 


78  MALDA  DISTRICT 

south-west  new  chars  have  attracted  a  number  of  Muhammadan  culti- 
vators from  English  Bazar  and  Nawabganj,  and  from  Murshidabad  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river.  The  immigrants  from  the  Santal  Parganas 
now  number  43,000  ;  and  there  is  also  a  considerable  immigration 
from  Bhagalpur  and  other  Bihar  Districts,  and  from  the  United  Pro- 
vinces. The  population  is  contained  in  3,555  villages  and  three  towns  : 
English  Bazar,  the  head-quarters,  Malda,  and  Nawabganj.  Bengali 
is  spoken  by  74  per  cent,  of  the  population  and  Bihar!  by  21  per  cent.  ; 
the  Mahananda  river  forms  a  linguistic  boundary,  the  northern  dialect 
of  Bengali  being  prevalent  in  the  east  of  the  District,  while  in  the  west 
the  MagadhI  dialect  of  Bihar!  is  the  vernacular.  The  Mahananda  is 
likewise  a  religious  boundary  ;  and  the  two  main  religions  are  nearly 
equally  divided,  Hindus  (440,398)  constituting  50  per  cent,  of  the 
population  and  Muhammadans  (424,969)  48  per  cent. 

Of  the  Muhammadans,  no  less  than  399,000  are  Shaikhs ;  they  are 
probably  for  the  most  part  descended  from  the  Rajbansis  or  Koch, 
who  form  the  prevailing  race  of  North  Bengal  east  of  the  Mahananda, 
and  are  the  most  numerous  of  the  Hindu  castes  in  the  District 
(64,000).  Santals  (including  18,000  returned  as  Animists)  number 
52,000,  Chains  (who  are  semi-Hinduized  aborigines)  44,000,  and 
Chasatis  27,000  ;  while  among  the  less  numerous  castes,  Gangai 
(Ganesh)  with  13,000  and  Pundari  (Puro)  with  8,000  are  distinctive 
of  this  part  of  the  country.  Agriculture  supports  57  per  cent,  of  the 
population,  industries  19  per  cent.,  and  the  professions  one  per  cent. 

The  only  Christian  mission  at  work  in  the  District  belongs  to  the 
London  Baptist  Missionary  Society  ;  it  has  met  with  but  little  success, 
the  number  of  native  Christians  in  1901  being  173. 

The  low-lying  recent  alluvium  in  the  west  and  south  is  enriched  by 
annual  deposits  of  silt,  and  its  fertile  soil  is  well  adapted  for  the  culti- 
vation of  rice,  mulberry,  indigo,  and  mangoes.  The 
stiff  clay  soil  of  the  Barind,  which  is  best  suited  to 
the  growth  of  winter  rice,  produces  also  large  crops  of  pulses  and  oil- 
seeds. The  north  and  north-west  corner  of  the  District  lying  between 
the  Mahananda,  the  Kalindn,  and  the  Ganges  is  intersected  by  nullahs 
and  covered  with  jungle ;  the  soil  here  is  extremely  poor,  but  the  short 
grass  affords  pasturage  to  a  considerable  number  of  cattle. 

In  1903-4  the  net  cropped  area  was  estimated  at  1,120  square  miles 
and  the  cultivable  waste  at  455  square  miles;  about  7  per  cent,  of  the 
net  cultivated  area  is  twice  cropped.  Rice  constitutes  the  staple  food- 
crop  and  is  grown  on  611  square  miles,  of  which  312  square  miles  are 
estimated  to  be  under  the  winter  crop,  while  on  most  of  the  remainder 
early  rice  is  grown.  Wheat  covers  119  square  miles,  barley  34  square 
miles,  maize  25  square  miles,  pulses  (including  gram)  and  other  food- 
grains  153  square  miles,  oilseeds  (chiefly  mustard)  105  square  miles, 


TRADE   AND    COMMUNICATIONS  79 

and  jute  38  square  miles.  Jute  is  grown  for  the  most  part  in  the 
north-west  of  the  District,  and  wheat,  barley,  and  gram  in  the  extreme 
west.  Mangoes,  for  the  excellence  and  variety  of  which  this  District 
is  deservedly  famous,  are  grown  chiefly  in  the  English  Bazar  thana. 
But  the  profits  from  the  sale  of  this  fruit,  as  well  as  the  improved 
facilities  for  transport,  have  encouraged  landowners  to  cultivate  it  in 
all  the  thanas  to  the  west  of  the  Mahananda.  Every  plot  of  land 
suitable  for  the  growth  of  mango  grafts  is  planted  with  them,  and  tracts 
of  land  formerly  growing  ordinary  rati  or  winter  crops  have  in  recent 
years  been  converted  into  mango  orchards.  The  mulberry  is  grown 
in  the  central  and  south-western  portion  of  the  District ;  and  its  culti- 
vation gives  a  curious  aspect  to  this  part  of  the  country,  as  the  land  has 
to  be  artificially  raised  to  the  height  of  8  or  10  feet,  to  prevent  the 
plants  from  being  destroyed  by  the  annual  floods.  Indigo  is  still 
grown  on  the  Ganges  diaras  to  the  west,  covering  about  1,000  acres, 
but  the  area  under  this  crop  has  been  largely  reduced. 

Cultivation  has  rapidly  extended  around  the  ruins  of  Gaur  and  also 
in  the  Barind,  where  the  greater  portion  of  the  cultivable  area  has  been 
cleared  of  jungles  in  recent  years  ;  and  there  has  also  been  an  extension 
of  cultivation  in  the  swampy  tract  to  the  east  of  Gaur.  Manure  is  used 
only  on  mulberry  lands,  and  artificial  irrigation  is  unnecessary  except 
for  the  spring  rice  crop.  The  agricultural  classes  are  on  the  whole 
prosperous,  and  there  has  hitherto  been  little  demand  for  advances 
under  the  Agriculturists'  and  Land  Improvement  Loans  Acts. 

Good  cart-bullocks  are  imported  from  the  Districts  to  the  west,  but 
the  local  cattle  are  poor.  There  are  extensive  tracts  of  waste  land 
in  the  Barind  and  elsewhere,  but  little  nourishing  pasture  land.  During 
the  rains  the  inhabitants  of  the  diaras  graze  their  cattle  in  the  higher 
tracts.  An  industrial  exhibition,  at  which  domestic  animals  and 
poultry  are  shown,  was  instituted  at  English  Bazar  in   1903. 

The  staple  industry  of  the  District  is  silk.     Its  production  may  be 
classed  in  three  branches  :   the  rearing  of  the  cocoons,  the  spinning 
of  the  raw  silk,  and  the  weaving  of  silk  piece-goods. 
Within  the  last  twenty-five  years   the  cultivation  of  comm^catf!>ns. 
mulberry  and  the  production  of  cocoons  has  nearly 
doubled;  and  the  annual  output  of  cocoons  is  estimated  at  100,000 
maunds,  worth  from   25  to  30  lakhs,  of  which  about  60,000  maunds 
are    exported.     The    annual    export    of    silk    thread    is    estimated   at 
1,650  to  1,700  maunds,  and  its  value  at  10  or  n  lakhs.     The  industry 
is  said  to  date  back  to  the  Hindu  kingdom  of  Gaur ;  and  the  cloth 
known  as  Maldahi  was  for  a  long  time  a  speciality  of  external  com- 
merce, but  its  manufacture  is  now  very  limited,  and  a  few  pieces  only 
are  occasionally  woven  to  meet  the  demands  of  a  Bombay  firm.     The 
export    of   ordinary    silk    piece-goods    has    also   decreased,    and    it    is 


So  MALDA  DISTRICT 

estimated  that  it  does  not  now  exceed  Rs.  60,000.  The  East  India 
Company  had  a  factory  at  Malda  as  early  as  1676,  and  in  1876  there 
were  seven  European  concerns  for  the  manufacture  of  raw  silk ;  but 
there  are  now  only  two  factories  under  European  management,  at 
Baragharia  and  Bhola  Hat,  and  the  number  of  native  factories  has  also 
declined.  In  1903-4  the  European  factories  turned  out  23,000  lb.  of 
raw  silk,  valued  at  2-1  lakhs,  which  was  exported  chiefly  to  England 
and  France ;  they  also  purchase  and  export  large  quantities  of  cocoons. 
Some  cotton  cloth  is  woven ;  but  the  only  other  important  industry 
is  the  manufacture  of  brass-ware  and  bell-metal  at  English  Bazar, 
Nawabganj,  and  Kallgram.  The  manufacture  of  indigo  is  languishing, 
and  the  out-turn  in  1903-4  was  only  4  tons. 

The  chief  exports  are  silk  cocoons,  silk  thread,  paddy  and  rice  to 
Calcutta,  Dacca,  Assam,  and  Bihar,  mangoes  (chiefly  to  Calcutta  and 
Eastern  Bengal)  and  jute  (to  Calcutta,  Murshidabad,  Nagpur,  Benares, 
Meerut,  and  Eahore),  while  wheat,  barley,  gram,  oilseeds,  and  chillies 
are  also  exported.  The  imports  comprise  cotton  piece-goods,  coco- 
nuts, betel-nuts,  paper,  g/ri,  gur  (molasses),  sugar,  copper,  brass  plates, 
kerosene  oil,  shoes,  umbrellas,  and  spices  of  all  kinds.  Coco-nuts  and 
betel-nuts  are  brought  from  Lower  Bengal,  ghl  and  gur  from  Bihar, 
and  the  other  articles  mainly  from  Calcutta.  A  large  part  of  the  traffic 
is  carried  in  country  boats  down  the  Mahananda ;  while  some  of  the 
trade  is  carried  by  boat  or  river  steamer  to  Rajmahal  on  the  East 
Indian  Railway,  or  to  Damukdia  Ghat  on  the  Eastern  Bengal  State 
Railway.  The  chief  mart  for  the  purchase  and  sale  of  silk  cocoons 
and  silk  thread  is  Amaniganj  Hat,  the  sales  on  a  market  day  occa- 
sionally amounting  to  a  lakh.  The  most  important  centre  of  trade  is 
Nawabganj  on  the  Mahananda,  while  Malda  and  Rohanpur  have 
also  an  important  rice  trade. 

No  railway  at  present  enters  the  District,  but  there  is  a  project  to 
construct  a  branch  line  from  Katihar  to  Sara  Ghat  or  to  Godagari 
(to  connect  with  an  extension  of  the  Ranaghat-Murshidabad  branch 
of  the  Eastern  Bengal  State  Railway  recently  opened  to  traffic).  Ex- 
cluding 424  miles  of  village  tracks,  there  are  only  277  miles  of  roads, 
of  which  9  miles  are  metalled.  The  most  important  are  those  from 
English  Bazar  to  Nawabganj  and  to  Rajmahal,  and  the  Dinajpur  road 
branching  off  from  the  latter  ;  the  road  from  Godagari  to  Dinajpur 
passes  through  the  south-eastern  corner  of  the  District.  There  are 
32  ferries  under  the  District  board.  The  paucity  of  roads  is  due  to 
the  excellence  of  water  communications. 

The  Mahananda  is  navigable  throughout  the  year  by  boats  of 
150  maunds  up  to  Alal,  the  Tangan  for  boats  of  100  maunds  up  to 
Lalgola,  and  the  Purnabhaba  for  boats  of  the  same  burden  as  far 
as  Dinajpur.     Steamers  belonging  to  the  India  General  Steam  Navi- 


ADMINISTRATION  81 

gation  Company  ply  six  days  a  week  between  English  Bazar  and 
Sultanganj ;  a  service  between  Rajmahal  and  Damukdia  Ghat  stops  at 
various  stations  on  the  Malda  side  of  the  Ganges,  and  during  the  rains 
a  ferry  steamer  runs  from  Rajmahal  to  English  Bazar  and  back  three 
days  a  week. 

Some  scarcity  in  1885  and  1897  necessitated  Government  relief 
on  a  small  scale,  but  no  actual  famine  has  occurred  in  recent  years. 

The  Magistrate-Collector  is  assisted  at  English  Bazar,  the  head- 
quarters, by  a  staff  of  three  Deputv-Collectors  and 

o   ,     ,  c*  „     ,  ,r,  ,    ,.     Administration, 

one    bub-deputy-Collector.       1  here    are    no    subdi- 
visions in  the  District. 

The  civil  courts  subordinate  to  the  District  Judge  are  those  of  three 
Munsifs,  of  whom  two  sit  at  English  Bazar  and  one  at  Nawabganj. 
The  District  and  Sessions  Judge,  who  is  also  Judge  of  Rajshahi,  has 
his  head-quarters  at  Rampur  Boalia  in  that  District.  Crime  is  on  the 
whole  light,  and  the  commonest  offences  are  of  a  petty  character  or  are 
due  to  disputes  about  land. 

The  District,  as  already  stated,  is  a  recent  creation  from  the  Districts 
of  Purnea  and  Dinajpur,  and  its  land  revenue  history  cannot  be  stated 
separately.  In  1903-4  there  were  655  estates,  with  a  revenue  demand 
of  4-36  lakhs.  The  whole  of  the  District  is  permanently  settled,  with 
the  exception  of  40  estates  with  a  total  demand  of  Rs.  35,000,  which 
are  temporarily  settled  or  managed  direct  by  Government.  Little  is 
peculiar  in  the  land  tenures  of  the  District,  except  the  existence  of 
several  large  revenue-free  estates  granted  as  endowments  to  Muham- 
madan  fakirs.  Under  the  halhasili  tenure  the  annual  rent  varies  both 
according  to  the  amount  of  land  under  cultivation  and  the  nature  of 
the  crop  raised.  This  tenure  is  most  common  in  the  backward  parts 
of  the  District,  and  one  of  its  incidents  is  that  it  allows  a  certain  pro- 
portion of  the  village  lands  always  to  lie  fallow.  Rent  rates  vary 
largely  for  different  kinds  of  land,  being  usually  much  lower  in  the  case 
of  old  holdings.  Land  yielding  two  or  three  crops  brings  in  about 
Rs.  1-14  per  acre  in  the  case  of  old  holdings,  and  from  Rs.  3  to 
Rs.  4-8  per  acre  in  the  case  of  land  newly  brought  under  cultivation. 
Low  lands  for  winter  rice  yield  from  about  Rs.  1-8  to  Rs.  2-4  per 
acre;  spring  rice  lands  from  Rs.  3-12  to  Rs.  6  and  Rs.  12,  and  occa- 
sionally even  Rs.  18  and  Rs.  24  per  acre  ;  mulberry  lands  from  Rs.  3 
to  Rs.  3-12  for  unraised  land  and  from  Rs.  4-8  to  Rs.  6  for  well-raised 
plots  ;  mango  orchards  from  Rs.  4-8  to  Rs.  6  ;  and  garden  lands  from 
Rs.  6  to  Rs.  15  per  acre.  The  average  holding  of  a  tenant,  as  esti- 
mated from  certain  typical  estates  in  various  parts  of  the  District,  is 
1^  acres. 

The  following  table  shows  the  collections  of  land  revenue  and  total 
revenue  (principal  heads  only),  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


82 


MALDA  DISTRICT 


1880-1. 

1 890- 1. 

1900-1. 

1903-4. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue      . 

4,  J  5 
6,69 

4,29 
7,69 

4,40 

8,So 

4,40 
9,08 

Outside  the  municipalities  of  English  Bazar,  Old  Malda,  and 
Nawabganj,  local  affairs  are  managed  by  the  District  board.  In 
19°3-4  its  income  was  Rs.  87,000,  of  which  Rs.  32,000  was  derived 
from  rates;  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  96,000,  including  Rs.  53,000 
spent  on  public  works  and  Rs.  25,000  on  education. 

English  Bazar  is  protected  by  an  embankment  2-|  miles  in  length 
from  the  inundations  of  the  Mahananda  and  Kalindrl  rivers. 

The  District  contains  ten  ihanas  or  police  stations  and  three  out- 
posts. In  1903  the  force  subordinate  to  the  District  Superintendent 
consisted  of  2  inspectors,  26  sub-inspectors,  20  head  constables,  and 
255  constables.  There  was,  in  addition,  a  rural  police  force  of  178 
dajfaddrs  and  1,784  chauklddrs.  The  District  jail  at  English  Bazar 
has  accommodation  for  no  prisoners. 

Education  is  backward;  in  1901  only  3-7  per  cent,  of  the  popu- 
lation (7-4  males  and  o«2  females)  could  read  and  write.  An  advance 
has,  however,  been  made  in  recent  years,  the  number  of  pupils  under 
instruction  having  increased  from  8,608  in  1883-4  to  1 1.752  in 
1892-3,  and  to  12,009  in  1900-1.  In  1903-4,  14,782  boys  and 
1,085  g'rls  were  at  school,  being  respectively  22-5  and  i-6  per 
cent,  of  those  of  school-going  age.  The  number  of  educational 
institutions,  public  and  private,  in  that  year  was  487,  including  27 
secondary  and  444  primary  schools.  The  expenditure  on  education 
was  Rs.  76,000,  of  which  Rs.  9,000  was  met  from  Provincial  funds, 
Rs.  23,000  from  District  funds,  Rs.  1,100  from  municipal  funds,  and 
Rs.  35,000  from  fees. 

In  1903  the  District  contained  nine  dispensaries,  of  which  one 
had  accommodation  for  28  in-patients.  The  cases  of  56,000  out- 
patients and  500  in-patients  were  treated,  and  2,419  operations  were 
performed.  The  expenditure  was  Rs.  15,000,  of  which  Rs.  800  was  met 
from  Government  contributions,  Rs.  5,000  from  local  and  Rs.  2,000 
from  municipal  funds,  and  Rs.  7,000  from  subscriptions. 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  in  municipal  areas.  In  1903-4 
the  number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  was  30,000,  represent 
ing  35  per  1,000  of  the  population. 

[Martin  (Buchanan  Hamilton),  Eastern  India  (1838),  vol.  ii,  pp.  291- 
582,  and  vol.  iii,  pp.  1-350  ;  Sir  W.  W.  Hunter,  Statistical  Account  of 
Bengal,  vol.  vii  (1876);  N.  G.  Mukerji,  Monograph  on  the  Silk  Fabrics 
of  Bengal  (Calcutta,  1903).] 

Malda  Town   (or  Old  Malda).— Town  in  Malda  District,  Eastern 


MA  LEG  AON  TOWN  83 

Bengal  and  Assam,  situated  in  250  2'  N.  and  88°  8'  E.,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Kalindri  with  the  Mahananda.  Population  (1901), 
3,743.  The  town  is  admirably  situated  for  river  traffic,  and  probably 
rose  to  prosperity  as  the  port  of  Pandua.  During  the  eighteenth 
century  it  was  the  seat  of  thriving  cotton  and  silk  manufactures,  and 
both  the  French  and  Dutch  had  factories  here.  In  18 10  Malda  was 
already  beginning  to  lose  its  prosperity  ;  and,  though  some  trade  is  still 
carried  on  in  grain,  it  shows  signs  of  poverty  and  decay.  Malda  was 
constituted  a  municipality  in  1869.  The  income  during  the  decade 
ending  1901-2  averaged  Rs.  3,450,  and  the  expenditure  Rs.  3,300. 
In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  3,400,  mainly  from  a  tax  on  persons 
(or  property  tax)  ;  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  3,000.  The  town 
contains  a  mosque  built  in  1566.  At  Nimasarai,  near  the  confluence 
of  the  Mahananda  and  Kalindri,  stands  an  old  brick  tower  with  stones 
shaped  like  elephant  tusks  projecting  from  its  walls.  It  resembles 
the  Hiran  Minar  at  Fatehpur  Sikri,  and  was  probably  intended  for 
a  hunting  tower. 

Malegaon  Taluka.  —  Tdluka  of  Nasik  District,  Bombay,  lying 
between  200  20'  and  200  53'  N.  and  740  180  and  740  49'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  777  square  miles.  It  contains  one  town,  Malegaon  (popula- 
tion, 19,054),  the  head-quarters;  and  146  villages  The  population  in 
1901  was  96,707,  compared  with  86,243  *n  1891-  The  density,  124 
persons  per  square  mile,  is  below  the  District  average.  The  demand 
for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  2-5  lakhs,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  17,000. 
Malegaon  is  hilly  in  the  north  ;  but  in  the  south,  except  for  a  few  small 
hills,  it  is  flat  and  treeless.  Three  ranges  run  through  the  tdluka,  and 
are  crossed  by  numerous  cart-tracks  into  Khandesh  and  the  adjoining 
taluka,  the  most  southerly  range  being  traversed  by  a  section  of  the 
Bombay-Agra  trunk  road.  The  tdluka  is  healthy  and  well  watered. 
The  chief  rivers  are  the  Girna  with  its  tributaries  in  the  centre,  and 
the  Bori  in  the  north.  The  Girna  passes  close  to  Malegaon  town. 
The  annual   rainfall  averages  21   inches. 

Malegaon  Town.— Head-quarters  of  the  taluka  of  the  same  name 
in  Nasik  District,  Bombay,  situated  in  20°  33'  N.  and  740  32'  E.,  on 
the  trunk  road  from  Bombay  to  Agra,  154  miles  north-east  of  Bombay 
and  24  miles  north-east  of  Manmad  on  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula 
Railway.  Population  (1901),  19,054.  Malegaon  was  formerly  a 
cantonment,  but  the  troops  have  now  been  finally  withdrawn.  It  has 
a  municipality,  established  in  1863.  The  income  during  the  decade 
ending  1901  averaged  Rs.  24,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was 
Rs.  32,000.  The  town  contains  two  cotton-ginning  factories,  about 
3,000  hand-looms  for  cotton  weaving,  which  employ  7,000  persons, 
a  Subordinate  Judge's  court,  two  English  schools,  and  a  dispensary. 
Malegaon  was  occupied  by  Arab  troops  during  the  Pindari   War.  and 


84 


M ALE G AON  TOWN 


its  capture  by  Colonel  M'Dowell  in  May,  1818,  was  attended  by  a  loss 
of  more  than  200  of  the  British  force.  When  the  Arabs  were  dispersed 
after  the  capture  of  the  fort,  many  of  them  were  escorted  to  Surat 
and  there  shipped  to  their  native  country  :  others  retired  to  Cutch, 
Kathiawar,  and  the  Deccan.  The  fort  is  said  to  have  been  built  in 
1740  by  Narushankar,  a  daring  Arab  leader;  other  authorities  refer  its 
construction  to  an  engineer  sent  from  Delhi. 

Malegaon  Village. — A  jaglr  village  in  the  north-east  of  Bidar 
District,  Hyderabad  State,  situated  in  180  41/  N.  and  7 6°  58'  E. 
Population  (1901),  270.  It  was  once  celebrated  for  its  annual  horse 
fair,  where  upwards  of  4,000  horses  and  ponies  were  disposed  of  for 
prices  ranging  up  to  Rs.  700.  Piece-goods,  cloth  of  all  kinds,  hard- 
ware, &c,  were  among  other  things  exposed  for  sale.  Owing  to  plague 
and  famine  the  fair  has  not  been  held  since  1897. 

Maler  Kotla  State. — Native  State  under  the  political  control  of 
the  Commissioner,  Jullundur  Division,  Punjab,  lying  between  300  24' 
and  300  41''  N.  and  750  42'  and  750  59'  E.,  with  an  area  of  167  square 
miles.  Population  (1901),  77,506,  giving  a  density  of  478  persons 
per  square  mile.  It  is  bounded  by  the  District  of  Ludhiana  on  the 
north  and  by  Patiala  territory  elsewhere,  except  for  a  few  miles  on 
the  western  border,  where  it  marches  with  some  Nabha  villages.  The 
country  is  a  level  plain,  unbroken  by  a  single  hill  or  stream,  and  varied 
only  by  sand-drifts  which  occur  in  all  directions  and  in  some  parts 
assume  the  shape  of  regular  ridges.  The  Bhatinda  branch  of  the 
Sirhind  Canal  passes  through  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  but  the 
Nawab  refuses  to  allow  irrigation  from  it.  The  Nawabs  of  Maler 
Kotla  are  of  Afghan  descent,  and  originally  held  positions  of  trust  in 
the  Sirhind  province  under  the  Mughal  emperors.  As  the  empire  sank 
into  decay  during  the  eighteenth  century,  the  local  chiefs  gradually 
became  independent.  In  1732  the  chief  of  Maler  Kotla,  Jamal  Khan, 
joined  the  commander  of  the  imperial  troops  stationed  in  the  Jullundur 
Doab  in  an  unsuccessful  attack  on  Raja  Ala  Singh,  the  Sikh  chief  of 
Patiala;  and  again  in  1761,  Jamal  Khan  afforded  valuable  aid  against 
his  Sikh  neighbour  to  the  lieutenant  whom  Ahmad  Shah,  the  Durrani 
conqueror,  had  left  in  charge  of  Sirhind.  The  consequence  of  this 
was  a  long-continued  feud  with  the  adjacent  Sikh  States,  especially  with 
Patiala.  After  the  death  of  Jamal  Khan,  who  was  killed  in  battle, 
dissensions  ensued  among  his  sons,  Bhikan  Khan  ultimately  becoming 
Nawab.  Soon  after  Ahmad  Shah  had  left  India  for  the  last  time,  Raja 
Amar  Singh  of  Patiala  determined  to  take  revenge  on  Bhikan  Khan. 
He  attacked  him,  and  seized  some  of  his  villages,  till  at  last  the  Maler 
Kotla  chief  found  that  he  was  unable  to  resist  so  powerful  an  enemy, 
and  a  treaty  was  negotiated  which  secured  peace  for  many  years 
between  these  neighbouring  States.      During  this  peace  the  forces  of 


MALER   KOTLA    STATE  85 

Maler  Kotla  on  several  occasions  assisted  the  Patiala  Rajas  when  in 
difficulties;  and  in  1787  Raja  Sahib  Singh  of  Patiala  returned  these 
kindnesses  by  aiding  Maler  Kotla  against  the  powerful  chief  of 
Bhadaur,  who  had  seized  some  of  the  Nawab's  villages.  In  1794 
a  religious  war  was  proclaimed  against  the  Muhammadans  of  Maler 
Kotla  by  the  Bedi  Sahib  Singh,  the  lineal  descendant  of  Baba  Nanak, 
the  first  and  most  revered  of  the  Sikh  Gurus.  This  man,  who  was 
half-fanatic  and  half-impostor,  inflamed  the  Sikhs  against  the  cow- 
killers  of  Maler  Kotla,  and  a  great  many  Sikh  Sardars  joined  him. 
The  Nawab  and  his  troops  were  defeated  in  a  pitched  battle,  and  com- 
pelled to  flee  to  the  capital,  where  they  were  closely  besieged  by  the 
fanatical  Bedi.  Fortunately  for  the  Nawab,  his  ally  of  Patiala  again  sent 
troops  to  help  him  ;  and  ultimately  the  Bedi  was  induced  to  withdraw 
across  the  Sutlej  by  the  offer  of  a  sum  of  money  from  the  Patiala  Raja. 

After  the  victory  of  Laswari,  gained  by  the  British  over  Sindhia  in 
1803,  and  the  subjugation  and  flight  of  Holkar  in  1805,  when  the 
Nawab  of  Maler  Kotla  joined  the  British  army  with  all  his  followers, 
the  British  Government  succeeded  to  the  power  of  the  Marathas  in  the 
districts  between  the  Sutlej  and  the  Jumna  ;  and  in  1809  its  protection 
was  formally  extended  to  Maler  Kotla  as  to  the  other  Cis-Sutlej 
States,  against  the  formidable  encroachments  of  Ranjlt  Singh  of 
Lahore.  In  the  campaigns  of  1806,  1807,  and  1808,  Ranjlt  Singh 
had  made  considerable  conquests  beyond  the  Sutlej ;  and  in  1808  he 
occupied  Fandkot,  marched  on  Maler  Kotla,  and  demanded  a  ransom 
of  Rs.  1,55,000  from  the  Nawab,  in  spite  of  the  protests  of  Mr.  (after- 
wards Lord)  Metcalfe,  who  was  then  an  envoy  in  Ranjlt's  camp.  This 
led  to  the  resolute  interference  of  the  British,  who  advanced  troops 
under  Colonel  Ochterlony,  and  at  the  same  time  (December,  1808) 
addressed  an  ultimatum  to  Ranjlt  Singh,  declaring  the  Cis-Sutlej  States 
to  be  under  British  protection.  Finally,  Ranjlt  Singh  submitted  ; 
Colonel  Ochterlony  formally  reinstated  the  Nawab  of  Maler  Kotla 
in  February,  1809;  and  in  April  of  that  year  the  final  treaty  between 
the  British  Government  and  Lahore,  which  affirmed  the  dependence 
of  the  Cis-Sutlej  States  on  the  former,  was  signed  by  Mr.  Metcalfe 
and  Ranjlt  Singh. 

The  present  Nawab,  Muhammad  Ibrahim  All  Khan,  born  in  1857, 
succeeded  in  1877  ;  but  he  has  been  insane  for  some  years,  and  the 
State  is  now  administered  by  Sahibzada  Ahmad  AH  Khan,  the  heir- 
apparent,  as  regent.  The  State  contains  the  town  of  Maler  Kotla,  the 
capital,  and  115  villages.  The  chief  products  are  cotton,  sugar,  opium, 
aniseed,  tobacco,  garlic,  and  grain;  and  the  estimated  gross  revenue  is 
Rs.  5,47,000.  The  Nawab  receives  compensation  from  the  Govern- 
ment of  India',  amounting  to  Rs.  2,500  per  annum,  on  account  of  loss 
of   revenue   caused  by  the   abolition   of  customs   duties.     The  State 


86 


MALER  KOTLA   STATE 


receives  an  allotment  of  14  to  1 6  chests  of  Malwa  opium  annually, 
each  chest  containing  1-25  cwt.,  at  the  reduced  duty  of  Rs.  280  per 
chest.  The  duty  so  paid  is  refunded  to  the  State,  with  a  view  to 
securing  the  co-operation  of  the  State  officials  in  the  suppression  of 
smuggling.  The  military  force  consists  of  50  cavalry  and  439  infantry. 
This  includes  the  Imperial  Service  contingent  of  one  company  (177 
men)  of  Sappers  and  Miners.  The  State  possesses  2  serviceable 
guns.  The  Nawab  of  Maler  Kotla  receives  a  salute  of  11,  including 
2  personal,  guns.  The  State  contains  an  Anglo-vernacular  high  school 
and  three  primary  schools. 

Maler  Kotla  Town. — Chief  town  of  Maler  Kotla  State,  Punjab, 
situated  in  300  32'  N.  and  750  59/  E.,  30  miles  south  of  Ludhiana  town. 
Population  (1901),  21,122.  The  town  is  divided  into  two  parts,  Maler 
and  Kotla,  which  have  lately  been  united  by  the  construction  of  the 
new  Moti  Bazar.  The  former  was  founded  by  Sadr-ud-dln,  the  founder 
of  the  Maler  Kotla  family  in  1466,  and  the  latter  by  Bayazld  Khan  in 
1656.  The  principal  buildings  are  the  houses  of  the  ruling  chief,  a 
large  Dlwan  Khana  (courthouse)  situated  in  Kotla,  and  the  mausoleum 
of  Sadr-ud-dln  in  Maler.  The  cantonments  lie  outside  the  town.  The 
chief  exports  are  grain  and  Kotla  paper  and  survey  instruments,  manu- 
factured in  the  town  itself ;  and  the  chief  imports  are  cotton  cloth,  salt, 
and  lime.  A  large  grain  market  has  lately  been  constructed.  The 
town  has  a  small  factory  for  the  manufacture  of  survey  instruments, 
employing  about  20  hands.  A  cotton-press,  opened  in  1904,  gives 
employment  to  about  300  persons.  Maler  Kotla  has  since  1905  been 
administered  as  a  municipality.  It  contains  a  high  school,  a  hospital, 
and  a  military  dispensary. 

Malgaon. — Town  in  the  Miraj  (Senior)  State,  Bombay,  situated  in 
1 6°  53'  N.  and  740  47'  E.  Population  (1901),  5,774.  It  is  adminis- 
tered as  a  municipality,  with  an  income  in  1903-4  of  Rs.  700.  A 
temple  of  Daudnath,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  dedicated  by 
the  hero  of  the  Ramayana,  stands  on  a  hill  about  3  miles  from  the 
town  ;  and  just  outside  is  the  shrine  of  a  Muhammadan  saint  named 
Bawafan,  at  which  a  yearly  fair,  attended  by  both  Hindus  and  Muham- 
madans,  is  held.  Malgaon  is  famous  for  its  betel-nut  gardens,  the 
produce  of  which  is  exported  to  Kolhapur,  Poona,  Bombay,  and  other 
places.  It  is  connected  with  Miraj,  6  miles  away,  by  a  good  road, 
which  serves  as  a  feeder  to  the  Southern  Mahratta  Railway.  The 
town  contains  a  branch  post  office  and  a  school. 

Malia. — State  in  the  Kathiawar  Political  Agency,  Bombay,  lying 
between  230  i'  and  230  io'  N.  and  70°  46'  and  710  2'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  103  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  9,075, 
residing  in  17  villages.  The  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  1,56,000,  and 
the  cultivated  area  68  square  miles.     The  State  ranks  as  a  fourth-class 


THE  MALTA HS  87 

State  in  Kathiawar.  The  Thakur  or  chief  was  raised  from  the  fifth  to 
the  fourth  class  to  give  him  a  greater  hold  over  the  Mianas,  a  predatory 
tribe  which  infests  the  neighbourhood.  He  is  a  representative  of  the 
elder  branch  of  the  Cutch  family,  and  executed  the  usual  engagements 
in  1807. 

Maliahs,  The  ('highlands'). — An  elevated  tract  in  the  western  half 
of  Ganjam  District,  Madras,  comprising  the  country  above  and  just 
adjoining  the  Eastern  Ghats,  and  lying  between  180  48'  and 
200  26'  N.  and  830  30'  and  840  36'  E.,  with  an  area  of  3,551  square 
miles.  They  are  also  called  the  Agencies,  because  they  are  adminis- 
tered by  the  Collector  under  special  powers  vested  in  him  in  his 
capacity  as  Agent  to  the  Governor.  They  are  peopled  by  primitive 
forest  tribes.  The  ordinary  courts  have  no  jurisdiction  in  them,  the 
Agent  and  his  Assistants  administering  both  civil  and  criminal  justice, 
and  much  of  the  ordinary  law  of  the  land  is  not  in  force. 

The  tract  consists  of  a  series  of  wild  undulating  plateaux,  divided 
by  lower  valleys.  In  the  north,  almost  the  whole  of  the  Udayagiri 
taluk  may  be  said  to  have  an  average  elevation  of  2,300  feet.  Passing 
west  to  Balliguda  and  Pokiribondo,  the  general  level  sinks  to  1,700 
and  1,500  feet,  and  farther  south  of  Balliguda  to  1,000  feet  at  Kotgar. 
On  the  west  of  this  last  line  is  a  higher  plateau  round  Belghar,  with 
an  average  elevation  of  2,500  feet,  and  in  the  southern  centre  of  the 
Balliguda  taluk  is  another  of  between  2,500  and  3,000  feet.  South  of 
this  the  general  altitude  is  about  1,700  feet,  again  sinking  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Nolaghat  in  Ramagiri  taluk  to  1,000  feet ;  while 
still  farther  south  the  elevation  once  more  rises,  and  the  hills  run  up 
into  the  three  highest  peaks  in  the  District,  all  of  which  are  above 
4,500  feet. 

The  scenery  throughout  is  usually  beautiful,  and  in  places  remains  of 
the  old  heavy  forest  are  still  standing ;  but  the  continual  clearing  of  the 
hill-sides  for  the  purposes  of  the  shifting  cultivation  practised  by  the 
tribes  prevents  the  trees  from  attaining  any  size.  This  shifting  culti- 
vation is  effected  by  felling  and  burning  a  piece  of  forest,  cultivating 
the  ground  in  a  careless  manner  for  two  or  three  years,  and  then 
moving  to  a  fresh  patch.  The  best  growth  now,  which  is  on  the  slopes 
leading  up  into  the  hill  country,  consists  chiefly  of  sal  (Shorea  robusta). 
The  chief  passes  into  the  Maliahs  are  the  Kalingia  ghat  from  Russell- 
konda,  the  Pippalaponka  ghat  from  Gazilbadi,  the  Katingia  ghat  from 
Surada,  the  Taptapani  or  'hot  spring'  ghat  (so  called  from  a  hot 
sulphur  spring  it  contains)  from  Digupudi,  the  Puipani  ghat  from 
Surangi,  and  the  Munisinghi  ghat  from  Parlakimedi. 

The  Agency  tracts  are  for  the  most  part  held  on  a  kind  of  feudal 
tenure,  the  proprietors  being  in  theory  bound  to  render  certain  services 
when  called  upon.     They  comprise  fourteen  different  Maliahs  known 


88 


THE   MALIAHS 


by  separate  names,  of  which  four,  the  Goomsur,  Surada,  Chinnakimedi, 
and  Parlakimedi  Maliahs,  are  Government  land. 

In  1901  the  population  numbered  321,114,  living  in  1,926  villages. 
Of  the  total,  139,000  were  Khonds,  83,000  Savaras,  44,000  Panos,  and 
46,000  Oriyas.  The  Panos,  who  are  often  good-looking,  have  well- 
marked  gipsy  proclivities.  Their  occupations  are  trade,  weaving,  and 
theft.  They  live  on  the  ignorance  and  superstition  of  the  Khonds,  as 
brokers  and  pedlars,  sycophants  and  cheats.  Where  there  are  no 
Oriyas  the  Panos  possess  much  influence,  and  are  always  consulted 
by  the  Khonds  in  important  questions,  such  as  boundary  disputes. 
The  Khonds  live  chiefly  in  the  north  and  the  Savaras  in  the  south. 
Both  are  primitive  people  and  their  religious  beliefs  are  animistic, 
though  those  who  have  settled  below  the  Ghats  have  to  some  extent 
adopted  the  ordinary  Hindu  gods  and  rites.  Their  languages,  which 
are  called  after  them  Khond  and  Savara,  are  unwritten. 

The  various  dialects  of  the  Khonds  differ  greatly  in  different  localities, 
and  the  ways  and  character  of  the  tribe  vary  almost  as  much  as  their 
dialects.  Those  inhabiting  the  Kutia  country  are  the  most  warlike 
and  troublesome.  Generally  speaking,  the  Khonds  are  'a  bold  and 
fitfully  laborious  mountain  peasantry,  of  simple  but  not  undignified 
manners ;  upright  in  their  conduct  ;  sincere  in  their  superstitions ; 
proud  of  their  position  as  landholders,  and  tenacious  of  their  rights.' 
Khond  women  wear  nothing  above  the  waist  except  necklaces.  The 
men  have  one  dirty  cloth,  the  ends  of  which  hang  down  behind  like 
a  tail.  Their  head-dress  is  characteristic.  They  wear  their  hair  very 
long,  and  it  is  drawn  forward  and  rolled  up  until  it  resembles  a  short 
horn.  Round  this  it  is  the  delight  of  the  Khond  to  wrap  a  piece  of 
coloured  cloth  or  some  feathers,  and  he  also  keeps  his  comb,  pipe,  &c, 
inside  it.  The  men  go  about  armed  with  a  ta?igi,  a  sort  of  battle-axe, 
and  use  bows  and  arrows  when  after  game.  They  are  over-fond  of 
sago-palm  liquor  ;  and  in  March,  when  the  mahua  flower  falls,  they 
distil  strong  drink  from  it,  and  many  of  the  male  population  remain 
hopelessly  intoxicated  for  days  together.  In  places  the  Sondis,  a  caste 
of  traders  and  toddy-sellers,  have  obtained  much  of  the  Khonds'  land 
by  pandering  to  their  taste  for  liquor. 

The  Savaras  are  of  poorer  physique,  and  more  docile  and  timid  than 
the  Khonds.  They  use  bows  and  arrows  like  the  Khonds,  and  dress 
their  hair  in  the  same  sort  of  horn  on  the  top  of  their  heads.  They  are 
not,  however,  nearly  so  addicted  to  strong  drink.  They  are  skilful 
cultivators,  and  in  some  places  grow  rice  by  terracing  the  hill-sides  with 
much  labour  and  ingenuity. 

The  dominant  race  above  the  Ghats  are  the  Oriyas.  The  hill 
villages  are  arranged  into  groups  called  muttahs,  over  each  of  which 
is  an  hereditary  headman,  known  as  the  patro  or  Bissoyi,  who  has  a 


MALlHABAD    TAHSIL  89 

number  of  paiks  or  guards  under  him.  With  one  exception,  all  these 
patros  are  Oriyas.  Government  holds  them  responsible  for  the  good 
order  of  their  muttahs,  and  the  Khonds  almost  everywhere  obey  them 
willingly. 

Government  derives  very  little  revenue  from  the  Maliahs,  except 
from  the  Chokkapad  khandam  in  the  Goomsur  Maliahs,  which  is 
managed  as  a  ryohvari  area.  All  the  zamlndars  and  chiefs  who  hold 
Maliahs  under  special  sanads  (grants)  pay  nazardnas  (fees)  to  Govern- 
ment, and  receive  fixed  amounts  from  the  patros  of  the  several  muttahs, 
who^in  their  turn  get  fixed  mamuls  (customary  payments)  from  the 
several  villages  in  their  muttahs. 

The  Maliahs  had  an  evil  repute  in  days  gone  by  for  frequent  meriah, 
or  human,  sacrifices  to  the  earth-god  to  secure  good  crops.  The 
Khonds  were  the  great  offenders  in  this  matter.  The  meriah  victim 
was  formally  purchased  and  destined  for  sacrifice,  and  on  the  day 
appointed  was  stupefied  with  intoxicants  and  then,  after  certain  cere- 
monies, was  publicly  done  to  death,  the  body  being  cut  up  into  small 
pieces  which  the  people  buried  in  their  fields  before  sundown.  The 
method  of  sacrifice  varied.  At  Balliguda  the  victim  was  tied  to  a 
horizontal  bar,  roughly  shaped  to  resemble  an  elephant's  head,  which 
turned  on  a  vertical  post.  The  bar  was  whirled  round  and  round,  and 
as  it  revolved  the  people  hacked  to  shreds  the  still  living  victim.  One 
of  these  diabolical  contrivances  is  now  in  the  Madras  Museum. 

Special  officers  were  appointed  to  suppress  this  custom  (and  female 
infanticide,  which  was  also  common) ;  but  it  persisted  as  late  as  1857, 
and  even  in  1880  an  attempted  sacrifice  in  Vizagapatam  District  was 
very  nearly  successful.  Some  hundreds  of  persons  of  both  sexes  who 
had  been  bought  for  sacrifice  were  rescued  by  the  special  officers,  and 
three  or  four  of  them  are  still  alive  and  in  receipt  of  a  monthly  dole 
from  Government.  The  Khonds  now  substitute  a  buffalo  for  the 
human  victim. 

Malihabad  Tahsil. — Northern  tahsil  of  Lucknow  District,  United 
Provinces,  comprising  the  parganas  of  Malihabad  and  Mahona,  and 
lying  between  260  52'  and  270  9'  N.  and  8o°  34'  and  Si0  4'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  334  square  miles.  Population  increased  from  175,542  in  1891 
to  184,230  in  1 90 1.  There  are  379  villages  and  only  one  town,  Mali- 
habad (population,  7,554),  the  tahsil  head-quarters.  The  demand  for 
land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  3,30,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  51,000. 
The  density  of  population,  552  persons  per  square  mile,  is  the  lowest 
in  the  District.  Across  the  centre  of  the  tahsil  flows  the  Gumti,  whose 
banks  are  fringed  by  ravines  and  bordered  by  a  sandy  tract.  In  the 
north-east  the  soil  is  clay,  and  tanks  and  jhils  abound.  The  south- 
western portion  is  intersected  by  several  small  streams  and  is  very 
fertile.     In  1903-4  the  area  under  cultivation  was  213  square  miles,  of 


9o  MA  LIN  A  BAD    TAHSIL 

which  73  were  irrigated.  Weils  supply  two-thirds  of  the  irrigated  area, 
and  tanks  most  of  the  remainder. 

Malihabad  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  tahsil  of  the  same 
name  in  Lucknow  District,  United  Provinces,  situated  in  260  55'  N. 
and  8o°  43'  E.,  a  mile  from  a  station  on  the  Oudh  and  Rohilkhand 
Railway  and  on  the  road  from  Lucknow  city  to  Hardoi.  Population 
(1901),  7,554.  According  to  tradition,  the  town  was  founded  by 
Malia,  a  Pas! ;  but  nothing  is  known  of  its  history  till  the  reign  of 
Akbar,  when  it  was  inhabited  by  Pathans.  It  contains  two  bazars 
built  in  the  eighteenth  century,  one  of  which  owes  its  origin  to  Nawab 
Asaf-ud-daula.  Besides  the  usual  offices,  a  dispensary  and  a  branch 
of  the  American  Methodist  Mission  are  situated  here.  Malihabad 
is  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about  Rs. 
2,300.  It  has  little  trade,  but  a  kind  of  tinfoil  is  manufactured  in 
small  quantities,  and  the  place  is  noted  for  its  mangoes  and  orchards 
of  ber  {Zizyphus  Jujubd).  A  school  for  boys  contains  175  pupils  and 
one  for  girls  29. 

Maliwun  (Siamese,  Maletvau). — Southernmost  township  of  Mergui 
District,  Lower  Burma,  lying  on  the  mainland  between  90  58'  and 
io°  55'  N.  and  960  27'  and  980  56'  E.,  and  including  islands  which  extend 
to  90  38'  N.  and  970  44'  E.  Its  area  is  989  square  miles.  The  eastern 
boundary  runs  for  most  of  the  way  along  the  Pakchan  river,  on  the 
other  side  of  which  is  the  Siamese  State  of  Renong.  The  head-quarters 
were  moved  in  1891  from  Maliwun,  the  principal  tin-mining  centre  in 
the  District,  situated  on  a  tributary  of  the  Pakchan,  to  the  healthier 
and  more  accessible  Victoria  Point  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
mainland.  Except  for  a  few  Government  officials  and  their  families, 
there  are  no  Burmans  in  the  township,  the  population  of  which  was 
7,719  in  1 89 1  and  5,265  in  1901,  composed  of  Siamese  in  the  rice 
plain  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Pakchan,  Chinese  in  the  mining  camps, 
Malays  along  the  coast,  and  Salons  about  the  islands.  The  township 
contains  41  villages  and  hamlets.  Until  the  time  of  Alaungpaya  the 
Pakchan  was  an  important  trade  route.  The  country  seems  to  have 
been  completely  depopulated  by  that  monarch's  devastations,  and  was 
left  a  good  deal  to  itself  till,  fifty  years  ago,  immigration  had  led  to 
such  a  series  of  dacoities  and  piracies  that  measures  had  to  be  con- 
certed between  the  British  and  Siamese  Governments  for  the  main- 
tenance of  order.  In  1859  the  population  was  only  733.  The  next 
year  the  tract  was  leased  to  a  Chinaman,  who  took  over  the  adminis- 
tration for  ten  years ;  but  internal  brawls  in  1861  led  to  the  establish- 
ment of  a  frontier  police  under  a  European  inspector,  and  later  to  the 
appointment  of  a  resident  magistrate.  The  village  of  Victoria  Point, 
called  by  the  Siamese  Kawsong,  by  the  Malays  Pulodua  (both  meaning 
'  two  islands '),  and  by  the  Burmans  Kawthaung,  a  corruption  of  the 


MALKAPUR    TOU'X  91 

Siamese  name,  contains  about  80  houses.  The  Government  building-, 
are  pleasantly  situated  on  rolling  hills,  from  which  the  islands  of  the 
Archipelago  and  the  Pakchan  river,  with  the  mountain  ranges  of 
Renong  beyond  it,  are  visible  at  the  same  time.  Except  for  the  rice 
plain  on  the  Upper  Pakchan  and  a  few  small  patches  elsewhere,  the 
whole  township  is  under  dense  forest.  The  area  cultivated  in  1903-4 
was  7  square  miles,  and  the  land  revenue  Rs.  4,600.  The  total  revenue 
raised  in  the  same  year  amounted  to  Rs.  30,000. 

Maliyas. — Hill  tracts  in  the  north  of  the  Madras  Presidency.  See 
Maliahs. 

Malkangiri.— Agency  tahsil  in  Vizagapatam  District,  Madras, 
situated  north  of  the  Ghats  on  the  western  border  of  the  District, 
and  bounded  east  and  west  by  the  Machkund  and  Sabari  rivers.  Area, 
2,396  square  miles;  population  (1901),  35,856,  compared  with  28,277 
in  1 89 1  ;  number  of  villages,  566.  The  tahsil  is  the  largest  and  most 
sparsely  peopled  in  the  Presidency,  the  density  of  population  being 
only  15  persons  per  square  mile.  Malkangiri  is  a  wild  forest-clad  area, 
watered  by  the  Sabari  and  Sileru,  and  sloping  down  to  the  Godavari 
border.  Good  teak  and  sal  (Shorea  robusta)  forests  exist,  and  they 
are  being  '  reserved '  by  the  Raja  of  Jeypore,  to  whom  the  talisil 
belongs.  The  head-quarters  are  at  Malkangiri  village.  Among  the 
inhabitants,  besides  hill  tribes,  are  found  a  considerable  number  of 
Telugus  who  have  immigrated  from  the  neighbouring  Agency  tract 
in  Godavari. 

Malkapur  Taluk. —  Taluk  of  Buldana  District,  Berar,  lying  between 
200  $$'  and  2 1°  2'  N.  and  760  2"  and  760  36'  E.,  with  an  area  of  792  square 
miles.  The  population  fell  from  177,877  in  1891  to  173,234  in  1901, 
the  density  in  the  latter  year  being  219  persons  per  square  mile.  The 
taluk  contains  288  villages  and  two  towns,  Malkapur  (population, 
13,112),  the  head-quarters,  and  Nandura  (6,669).  The  demand  for 
land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  5,24,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  41,000. 
Malkapur  lies  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Puma,  which  bounds  it  on 
the  north,  while  on  the  south  it  is  bounded  by  the  hills  of  the  Balaghat. 

Malkapur  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name  in 
Buldana  District,  Berar,  situated  in  200  53'  N.  and  760  15'  E.,  on  the 
Nalganga,  a  tributary  of  the  Puma,  at  an  elevation  of  900  feet,  with 
a  station  on  the  Nagpur  branch  of  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway, 
308  miles  from  Bombay  and  213  from  Nagpur.  Population  (1901), 
13,112.  Two  bands  or  dams  cross  the  Nalganga  here,  one  of  which  is 
said  to  have  been  constructed  about  two  hundred  years  ago  to  facilitate 
communication  with  the  peth  or  suburb,  and  the  other  about  fifty  years 
later  to  fill  the  town  ditch  with  water  and  thus  protect  it  from  surprise 
by  marauders.  A  dilapidated  rampart  of  dressed  stone  with  live  gates 
and  twenty-eight  bastions  surrounds  the  town,  which  is  divided  into 

VOL.  XVII.  G 


92  MALKAPUR    TOWN 

four  principal  quarters.  One  of  the  gates  bears  on  it  an  inscription,  to 
the  effect  that  it  was  erected  in  1729  during  the  rule  of  Muhammad 
Maali  Khan.  Malkapur  is  mentioned  in  the  Ain-i-Akbari  as  the  head- 
quarters of  a  pargana  in  the  sarkar  of  Narnala.  The  town  is  said  to 
have  been  founded  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago  by  a  prince 
of  the  Fariiki  house  of  Khandesh,  and  to  have  been  named  by  him 
after  the  princess  (/na/ika)  his  daughter  ;  but  the  story  is  improbable, 
for  we  have  no  record  of  any  journey  in  this  direction  by  Miran  GhanI 
Adil  Khan,  the  Faruki  prince  of  the  period.  In  1761  the  town  was 
rich  enough  to  pay  Rs.  60,000  to  the  army  of  Raghunath  Rao  Peshwa, 
for  exemption  from  plunder.  The  Nizams  used  to  keep  a  force  of 
about  20,000  men  in  this  frontier  district  of  their  dominions.  Daulat 
Rao  Sindhia  and  RaghujT  Bhonsla  were  encamped  near  Malkapur 
when  the  British  envoy,  Colonel  Collins,  after  presenting  General 
Wellesley's  ultimatum,  quitted  Sindhia's  camp  on  August  3,  1803. 
Malkapur  was  the  scene  of  several  petty  battles  between  zamlndars, 
rival  talukdars,  Rajputs,  and  Musalmans  during  the  period  between 
the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  and  the  Assignment  of  Berar. 
A  subordinate  civil  court  is  established  at  Malkapur,  which  also 
contains  a  fa/isl/,  a  courthouse,  schools,  a  dispensary,  and  some  ginning 
factories.  A  mosque  near  the  kazis  house  is  said  to  be  older  than 
the  town. 

Mallani. — The  largest  district  in  the  State  of  Jodhpur,  Rajputana, 
situated  in  the  west  of  the  State,  with  an  area  of  5,750  square  miles. 
In  1901  it  contained  one  town,  Barmer,  and  464  villages,  with  a  total 
population  of  172,330,  of  whom  about  75  per  cent,  were  Hindus, 
12  per  cent.  Musalmans,  6  per  cent.  Animists,  and  5  per  cent.  Jains. 
The  population  in  1891  was  221,184;  the  decrease  is  due  to  the 
famine  of  1 899-1 900.  The  most  numerous  castes  are  the  Tats,  40,000  ; 
Bhils,  11,700;  Rajputs,  11,400  (of  whom  1,400  are  Musalmans); 
Mahajans,  11,000;  Brahmans,  9,400;  and  Balais  or  Chamars,  8,000. 
The  salient  feature  of  the  country  is  the  sandhills,  which  in  some 
places  rise  to  an  altitude  of  300  to  400  feet.  The  northern  and 
western  portions  form  part  of  the  desert  stretching  into  Sind  and 
Jaisalmer.  Water  is  usually  brackish,  and  in  some  spots  deadly  to  man 
or  beast.  Wells  and  pools  yield  potable  water  only  after  the  rains 
and  become  noxious  by  March,  so  that  in  the  summer  there  is  a  great 
scarcity  of  water  and  the  use  of  a  wholesome  well  has  to  be  paid  for. 
The  sandy  wastes  provide  excellent  grazing  for  the  herds  of  camels, 
cattle,  sheep,  and  goats  kept  by  a  large  migratory  population,  including 
some  of  the  hardy  Baloch  tribes.  The  only  river  in  Mallani  is  the 
Luni,  which  enters  the  district  at  Jasol  and  pursues  a  tortuous  course 
of  about  80  miles  till  it  passes  into  the  Sanchor  district  of  the  State, 
and  thence  to  the  Rann  of  Cutch.     There  are  about  40  jhih  or  marshes 


MALLANI  93 

in  the  vicinity  of  Banner,  Takhtabad,  and  Setrao,  some  of  which  cover 
an  area  of  400  or  500  acres.  In  favourable  seasons,  wheat  is  grown  in 
their  beds,  and  when  they  are  dry  they  yield  a  good  supply  of  water  at 
a  depth  varying  from  8  to  24  feet.  Fuller's  earth  is  found  in  con- 
siderable quantities  ;  and  the  principal  manufactures  are  cloth  of  a 
mixture  of  cotton  and  wool,  woollen  blankets,  small  rugs  of  camel  hair, 
millstones,  and  horse  and  camel  saddlery.  The  horses  of  Mallani  are 
famous  for  their  hardiness  and  ease  of  pace,  and  though  light-boned 
will  carry  heavy  weights;  the  best  are  bred  in  the  villages  of  Xagar  and 
Gurha.  The  administration  of  the  district  is  in  the  hands  of  a  Super- 
intendent, under  whom  are  the  hakim  or  chief  local  officer ;  the  Munsif, 
who  settles  civil  suits  and  disputes  about  land ;  and  the  risalddr,  who 
is  the  head  of  the  local  police.  There  are  four  vernacular  schools  of 
long  standing,  and  a  couple  of  small  hospitals. 

Historically  the  tract  is  very  interesting,  and  justly  claims  to  be  the 
cradle  of  the  Rathor  race  in  the  west.  Here,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
thirteenth  century,  Rao  Siahji  and  his  son  AsthanjT,  having  conquered 
Kher  (now  a  ruined  village  near  Jasol)  and  the  adjoining  tract  called 
Mewo,  from  the  Gohel  Rajputs,  planted  the  standard  of  the  Rathors 
amid  the  sandhills  of  the  Luni.  The  eighth  in  succession  from  Siahji 
was  Rao  Salkha,  in  whose  time,  about  the  middle  of  the  fourteenth 
century,  a  separation  took  place.  Salkha  had  three  sons  :  namely, 
Mallinath,  Viramdeo,  and  Jetmal.  A  portion  of  the  tribe  followed 
the  fortunes  of  Viramdeo,  whose  son  Chonda  captured  Mandor  from 
the  Parihar  Rajputs  in  1381,  and  whose  descendants  ruled  first  there 
and  subsequently  at  Jodhpur.  The  rest  of  the  tribe  remained  on  the 
banks  of  the  Luni  with  Salkha's  eldest  son,  Mallinath,  after  whom 
the  district  of  Mallani  is  named.  Succession  following  the  rule  of 
partition,  the  country  became  minutely  subdivided  among  the  descen- 
dants of  Mallinath,  and  the  dissensions  and  blood-feuds  thereby  created 
offered  the  chiefs  of  Jodhpur  opportunities  to  interfere  and  establish 
an  overlordship  which  continues  to  the  present  day.  The  district  was 
for  centuries  one  continual  scene  of  anarchy  and  confusion  ;  and  the 
Jodhpur  Darbar,  when  called  upon  to  remedy  this,  acknowledged  its 
inability.  In  these  circumstances,  in  1836,  it  became  necessary  for  the 
British  Government  to  occupy  Mallani  and  restore  order  by  reducing 
the  principal  Thakurs.  The  district  was  subsequently  held  in  trust 
by  Government,  the  rights  of  the  Jodhpur  chief  being  recognized  ;  and 
as  the  Darbar  gave  increasing  evidence  of  sound  administration,  its 
jurisdiction  has  been  gradually  restored — namely,  military  in  1S54. 
civil  in  1891,  and  criminal  in  1898.  The  whole  of  Mallani  consists 
of  jaglr  estates,  the  principal  being  Jasol,  Banner,  and  Sindri,  hold  by 
descendants  of  Mallinath,  and  Nagar  and  Gurha,  held  by  descendants 
of  Jetmal.     They  pay  a  small  tribute  called  faujbal  to  the  Jodhpur 

g  2 


94  MALLANJ 

Darbar,  which  thus  derives  an  income  of  about  Rs.  t8,ooo,  including 
a  few  miscellaneous  items. 

Mallanwan. — Town  in  the  Bilgram  tahsil  of  Hardoi  District,  United 
Provinces,  situated  in  270  3'  N.  and  8o°  9'  E.,  on  the  old  route  from 
Delhi  to  Benares,  north  of  the  Ganges.  Population  (1901),  11,158. 
The  Shaikhs  who  inhabit  the  place  claim  to  have  come  with  Saiyid 
Salar,  and  it  was  of  some  importance  under  native  rule.  In  1773 
a  force  of  the  Company's  troops  was  cantoned  between  Mallanwan 
and  Bilgram,  but  was  removed  soon  after  to  Cawnpore.  At  annexation 
in  1856  Mallanwan  was  selected  as  the  head-quarters  of  a  District ;  but 
after  the  Mutiny  the  offices  were  removed  to  Hardoi.  The  town  is 
administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about  Rs. 
2,700.  There  is  a  considerable  manufacture  of  vessels  of  brass  and 
bell-metal.  The  school  has  216  pupils,  and  the  American  Methodist 
Mission  has  a  branch  in  the  town. 

Malot  (1). — Ancient  fortress,  now  in  ruins,  in  the  District  and  tahsil 
of  Hoshiarpur,  Punjab,  situated  in  310  50'  N.  and  760  E.  It  was  founded 
by  a  Pathan  general  in  the  reign  of  Bahlol  LodI  (1451-89),  and  became 
under  Sher  Shah  the  capital  of  the  tracts  which  now  form  Hoshiarpur 
and  Kangra  Districts.  In  1526  it  was  surrendered  to  Babar  by  Daulat 
Khan,  ruler  of  the  Punjab,  and  in  later  times  it  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  hill  Rajputs. 

Malot  (2). — Fort  and  temple  on  a  precipitous  spur  projecting  from 
the  southern  edge  of  the  Salt  Range,  Jhelum  District,  Punjab,  situated 
in  320  42'  N.  and  720  50'  E.,  about  9  miles  west  of  Katas.  The  fort  is 
said  to  have  been  built  five  or  six  centuries  ago  by  Raja  Mai,  a  Janjua 
chief,  whose  descendants  still  hold  the  village.  The  temple,  with  its 
gateway,  stands  on  the  extreme  edge  of  the  cliff.  They  are  in  the 
earlier  Kashmir  style,  built  of  coarse  red  sandstone,  much  injured  by 
the  action  of  the  weather.  The  temple  is  18  feet  square  inside,  with 
remarkable  fluted  pilasters  and  capitals,  on  each  of  which  is  a  kneeling 
figure. 

{Archaeological  Survey  Reports,  vol.  v,  pp.  85-90.] 

Malpe. — Village  and  port  in  the  Udipi  taluk  of  South  Kanara 
District,  Madras,  situated  in  130  28'  N.  and  740  46'  E.  It  is  the  best 
natural  port  in  the  District,  the  roadstead  being  sheltered  by  the  island 
of  Darya  Bahadurgarh.  The  St.  Mary  Isles,  on  which  Vasco  da  Gama 
landed  in  1498  and  set  up  a  cross,  lie  about  3  miles  to  the  north-west. 
The  Basel  Mission  has  a  tile  factory  here. 

Malpur. — Petty  State  in  MahI  Kantha,  Bombay. 

Malpura. — Head-quarters  of  the  nizamat  and  tahsil  of  the  same 
name  in  the  State  of  Jaipur,  Rajputana,  situated  in  26°  18'  N.  and 
750  23'  E.,  about  55  miles  south-west  of  Jaipur  city,  and  connected 
with  the  Rajputana-Malwa  Railway  at  Naraina  by  an  unmetalled  road 


mAlur  taluk  a  95 

about  38  miles  long.  Population  (1901),  6,502.  The  town  has  a 
more  than  local  reputation  for  the  namda  or  felt  manufactured  there. 
Blankets,  gugis,  or  capes  with  hoods  worn  in  the  rainy  season,  Hindu 
prayer-rugs,  saddle-cloths,  gun-covers,  and  floorcloths  are  the  chief 
articles  made  from  this  material ;  and  they  are  largely  exported.  A  ver- 
nacular middle  school  is  attended  by  about  120  boys,  and  the  hospital 
has  accommodation  for  4  in-patients.  There  are  numerous  excellent 
irrigation  works  in  this  district  ;  among  them  the  Tordi  Sagar,  a  few 
miles  to  the  south  of  Malpura  town.  Completed  in  1887  at  a  cost  of 
5  lakhs,  this  tank,  when  full,  covers  an  area  of  over  6  square  miles,  and 
can  hold  water  sufficient  to  irrigate  about  2  7  square  miles.  The  total 
expenditure  up  to  1904  was  about  6-3  lakhs,  while  the  total  revenue 
realized  up  to  the  same  date  was  6-4  lakhs. 

Malsiras  Taluka..— Taluka  of  Sholapur  District,  Bombay,  lying 
between  170  35'  and  180  2'  N.  and  740  37'  and  750  13'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  574  square  miles.  It  contains  69  villages,  the  head-quarters  being 
at  Malsiras  (population,  2,263).  The  population  in  1901  was  52,533, 
compared  with  74,039  in  1891.  The  taluka  is  very  thinly  populated, 
with  a  density  of  only  92  persons  per  square  mile,  the  average  for  the 
District  being  159.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was 
i- 1  lakhs,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  8,000.  Malsiras  is  generally  flat  and  bare 
of  trees,  except  in  the  west,  where  there  is  a  chain  of  hills.  Water  is 
not  plentiful.  The  chief  rivers  are  the  Nira  and  Bhlma.  The  taluka 
chiefly  consists  of  good  black  soil.  The  climate  is  dry  and  hot,  and 
the  rainfall  scanty  and  uncertain. 

Malsiras  Village. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluka  of  the  same  name 
in  Sholapur  District,  Bombay,  situated  in  1  70  53'  N.  and  740  58'  E. 
Population  (1901),  2,263.  A  weekly  market  is  held  on  Tuesday.  The 
village  contains  an  old  Hemadpanti  temple  of  Someshwar,  and  a 
shrine  of  Hanuman,  on  the  high  road  from  Poona  to  Pandharpur, 
which  is  much  frequented  by  pilgrims.     There  is  one  school. 

Malur  Taluka. — South-western  taluk  of  Kolar  District,  Mysore, 
lying  between  120  48'  and  if  n'  N.  and  770  51'  and  780  8'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  267  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  61,908, 
compared  with  54,180  in  1891.  The  taluk  contains  one  town,  Malur 
(population,  3,632),  the  head-quarters ;  and  374  villages.  The  land 
revenue  demand  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  1,21,000.  Malur  occupies  the 
watershed  separating  the  Palar  and  Ponnaiyar  rivers.  The  high-lying 
tracts  are  bare  or  covered  with  low  jungle.  The  north-east  is  the  most 
fertile  part,  watered  by  streams  flowing  west  to  the  Ponnaiyar.  There 
are  many  large  tanks.  Good  potatoes  are  grown.  The  soil  is  red 
and  comparatively  deep,  mixed  with  sand  in  the  south-west  ;  in  the 
east  it  is  grey  and  shallow,  being  similar  in  the  south,  where  rock 
crops  up. 


96  MALUR    VILLAGE 

Malur  Village. — Village  in  the  Channapatna  taluk  of  Bangalore 
District,  Mysore,  situated  in  130  o'  N.  and  77°  56'  E.,  on  the  Kanva. 
Population  (1901),  2,515.  Most  of  the  residents  are  Brahmans  of  the 
Srivaishnava  sect,  who  give  it  the  name  Rajendrasimha-nagara.  There 
are  several  ruined  temples,  but  a  large  one  of  Aprameyaswami  is 
kept  in  good  order.  The  place  was  of  importance  under  the  Cholas. 
Vijnaneswara  is  said  to  have  here  composed  the  law  book  Mitakshara, 
his  celebrated  commentary  on  Yajnavalkya,  its  date  being  about  11 00. 

Malvalli. —  Taluk  and  town  in  Mysore  District,  Mysore.  See 
Malavalli. 

Malvalli. — Village  in  Shimoga  District,  Mysore.    See  Malavalli. 

Malvan  Taluka. — Southern  taluka  of  Ratnagiri  District,  Bombay, 
lying  between  160  1'  and  160  19'  N.  and  730  27'  and  730  41'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  238  square  miles.  It  contains  one  town,  Malvan  (popula- 
tion, 19,626),  the  head-quarters;  and  58  villages,  including  Masura 
(8,855)  and  Pendur  (5,364).  The  population  in  1901  was  107,944, 
compared  with  92,437  in  1891.  The  increase  is  due  to  the  presence 
of  large  numbers  of  Bombay  mill-hands,  whose  homes  are  in  Malvan, 
and  whom  the  closing  of  mills  in  1901  had  forced  to  return  to  their 
villages.  The  density,  454  persons  per  square  mile,  is  much  above  the 
District  average.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was 
Rs.  89,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  6,000.  The  taluka  forms  a  considerable 
stretch  of  the  Ratnagiri  sea-board,  intersected  by  the  Kolamb  and 
Kalavali  creeks.  The  interior  is  a  series  of  rugged  hills  and  rich 
valleys.  Rice  and  sugar-cane  are  grown  along  the  Karli  and  Kalavali 
creeks.  The  headland  of  Rajkot  at  Malvan  offers  a  secure  harbour  to 
small  steamers  and  country  craft  which  anchor  in  Malvan  Bay,  but  the 
bay  is  dangerous  to  vessels  without  a  pilot.  The  climate  is  on  the 
whole  healthy.  The  annual  rainfall  averages  88  inches.  The  supply 
of  water  for  drinking  and  other  purposes  is  abundant.  The  Karli  and 
Kalavali  creeks  are  navigable  by  small  craft  for  20  miles.  The  chief 
ports  on  the  sea-board  are  Devgarh,  Achra,  and  Malvan,  forming  the 
Malvan  customs  division. 

Malvan  Town  (Maha-lava/ia,  the  'Salt  Marsh ').— Head-quarters 
of  the  taluka  of  the  same  name  in  Ratnagiri  District,  Bombay,  situated 
in  1 6°  3'  N.  and  730  28'  E.,  70  miles  south  of  Ratnagiri  town.  Popu- 
lation (1901),  19,626.  In  a  bay  almost  entirely  blocked  by  rocky 
reefs,  there  were  formerly  three  islands.  On  the  larger  of  the  two  outer 
islands  was  the  famous  fort  of  Sindhudrug,  and  on  the  smaller  the 
ruined  fort  of  Padmagarh.  Sindhudrug  or  the  'ocean  fort,'  built  by 
Sivajl,  was  very  extensive,  little  less  than  2  miles  round  the  ramparts. 
To  the  Marathas  it  is  Sivaji's  cenotaph,  and  his  image  is  worshipped  in 
the  chief  shrine.  On  what  was  once  the  inner  island,  now  part  of  the 
mainland,  is  situated,  almost  hidden  in  palms,  the  old  town  of  Malvan. 


MALWA   AGENCY  97 

The  English  had  a  factory  here  in  1702.  The  modern  town  of  Malvan 
has  spread  far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  former  island.  Within  the 
boundaries  of  the  town,  on  rising  ground  surrounded  on  three  sides 
by  the  sea,  is  Rajkot  fort.  Malvan  was  formerly  a  stronghold  of  the 
Maratha  pirates,  known  as  'the  Malwans';  but  in  181 2  it  was,  under 
the  Treaty  of  Karvir,  ceded  to  the  British  by  the  Raja  of  Kolhapur. 
Towards  the  close  of  18 12  Colonel  Lionel  Smith  completely  extirpated 
the  pirates.  Iron  ore  of  good  quality  is  found  in  the  neighbourhood. 
The  value  of  trade  at  the  port  of  Malvan  in  1903-4  was  :  imports 
12  lakhs,  exports  6\  lakhs.  The  town  contains  a  Subordinate  Judge's 
Court  and  eleven  schools,  of  which  two  are  for  girls. 

Malwa  Agency. — A  collection  of  Native  States  in  charge  of  a 
Political  Agent  under  the  orders  of  the  Agent  to  the  Governor- 
General  in  Central  India,  lying  between  220  20'  and  250  9'  N.  and 
740  32'  and  760  28'  E.  It  has  an  area  of  8,919  square  miles,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  Ra.jputa.na ;  on  the  south  by  the 
Bhopawar  and  Indore  Residency  Political  Charges;  and  on  the  east 
by  Bhopal. 

The  total  population  in  1901  was  1,054,753,  of  whom  Hindus 
numbered  839,364,  or  81  per  cent.;  Musalmans,  107,290,  or  10  per 
cent.;  Animists,  55,013,  or  5  per  cent.;  Jains,  36,615,  or  3  per  cent.; 
and  Christians,  1,488.  The  density  of  population  is  118  persons  per 
square  mile.  The  Agency  contains  15  towns,  of  which  the  chief 
are  Ujjain  (population,  39,892),  Ratlam  (36,321),  Jaora  (23,854), 
Nimach  including  cantonment  (21,588),  Mandasor  (20,936),  and 
Dewas  (15,403);  and  3,847  villages. 

After  the  conclusion  of  the  Treaty  of  Mandasor  with  Holkar  in  1818, 
the  local  corps  raised  in  accordance  with  its  provisions  was  stationed 
at  Mehidpur,  and  the  commandant  received  military  and  civil  powers. 
His  charge  comprised  the  whole  of  the  Agency  as  it  was  up  to 
March  20,  1907,  before  the  inclusion  of  the  Indore  Agency  and  the 
lately  transferred  Indore  districts,  but  not  the  Nimach  district,  which 
was  at  that  time  included  in  Rajputana.  After  the  Mutiny,  Colonel 
Keatinge,  who  was  placed  in  political  control  of  the  country,  moved 
his  head-quarters  from  time  to  time  between  Mandasor,  Agar,  and 
Mehidpur.  In  i860,  when  the  Central  India  Horse  was  regularly 
constituted  and  stationed  at  Agar,  the  dual  military  and  civil  control 
of  the  charge,  then  called  the  Western  Malwa  Agency,  was  entrusted 
to  the  commandant.  The  civil  work  becoming  too  heavy  for  this 
officer  to  deal  with  adequately,  the  Malwa  Agency  was  created  under 
a  separate  Political  officer  in  1895,  the  head-quarters  being  placed  at 
Nimach.  In  1903  the  Indore  State  districts  comprised  in  the  charge 
were  handed  over  to  the  Resident  at  Indore.  A  further  change  was 
made  in  March,  1907,  when  the  Indore  Agency  was  abolished,  and  the 


9S  MALWA   AGENCY 

Suites  and  estates  directly  under  the  Agent  to  the  Governor-General 
were  transferred  to  the  Political  Agent  in  Malwa.  In  1854,  on  the 
first  appointment  of  an  Agent  to  the  Governor-General,  the  twin  States 
of  Dewas  and  several  estates,  of  which  the  Thakurat  of  Bagli  was  the 
most  important,  remained  directly  under  the  Agent  to  the  Governor- 
General,  who  delegated  the  powers  of  control  to  his  First  Assistant. 
The  increase  of  secretariat  work  at  head-quarters  necessitated  the 
abolition  of  this  arrangement,  and  the  charge  was  transferred.  There 
are  now  five  States  with  their  head-quarters  in  the  Agency  :  the  Hindu 
twin  States  of  Dewas,  the  Muhanimadan  treaty  State  of  Jaora,  and  the 
mediatized  Hindu  States  of  Ratlam,  Sitamau,  and  Sailana.  In 
addition  to  the  above,  the  Political  Agent  also  has  charge  of  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  Gwalior  territory,  of  the  Pirawa  pargana  of 
Toxk,  and  of  numerous  holdings  under  British  guarantee,  of  which 
Piploda  and  Bagli  are  the  most  important  (see  table  on  next  page). 
Among  these  minor  holdings  Panth-Piploda  is  peculiar,  being  held 
directly  from  the  British  Government,  without  the  intervention  of  any 
Native  State.  The  holders  possess  no  land,  but  receive  a  cash  assign- 
ment levied  on  the  income  derived  from  ten  villages  situated  within 
the  territory  of  various  Thakurs,  five  of  these  villages  being  in  Piploda. 
The  grantees  have  no  proprietary  rights  whatever,  receiving  their  cash 
assignment  through  the  Political  Agent,  who  holds  the  jurisdiction  over 
these  villages. 

The  Ajmer-Khandwa  branch  of  the  Rajputana-Malwa  Railway,  the 
Ujjain-Ratlam-Godhra  branch  of  the  Bombay,  Baroda,  and  Central 
India  Railway,  and  the  Ujjain-Bhopal  Railway  serve  the  Agency.  The 
Agra-Bombay,  Ujjain-Agar,  Mhow-Nimach,  Ujjain-Sehore,  Agar-Sarang- 
pur,  Dewas-Ujjain,  and  Dewas-Bhopal  metalled  roads  also  traverse  it. 

The  Political  Agent  exercises  the  usual  general  control  over  all  the 
States,  and  is  a  Court  of  Sessions  for  the  cantonment  of  Nimach.  He 
is  also  the  District  Magistrate  and  Judge  and  Court  of  Sessions  for 
the  Rajputana-Malwa,  Ujjain-Nagda,  and  Ratlam-Godhra  sections  of 
the  Bombay,  Baroda,  and  Central  India  Railway,  from  Fatehabad  to 
Kesarpura  stations  and  from  Ratlam  to  the  east  of  the  Mahi. 

The  Agency  comprises  the  States,  portions  of  States,  and  estates 
shown  in  the  table  on  the  next  page. 

Malwa  (1).— A  high-level  region,  with  an  area  of  7,630  square  miles, 
forming  the  greater  part  of  the  western  section  of  the  Central  India 
Agency,  which,  as  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  habitable  parts  of  the 
Peninsula,  has  figured  prominently  in  the  ancient  and  mediaeval 
periods  of  Indian  history. 

The  term  Malwa  has  at  different  periods  been  applied  to  somewhat 
varying  tracts,  though  Malwa  proper  has  always  constituted  its  main  area. 
Malwa  proper,  as  understood  by  Hindus,  consists  solely  of  the  plateau 


MALWA   AGENCY 

9S 

Name. 

Title. 

Caste,  clan,  tS;c. 

Areain 
square 
miles. 

Population, 
1 901. 

Total 
revenue. 

i.  Dewas,      Senior 

Rs. 

Branch,  portion 

H.  H.  Raja  .    Ponwar  Maratha . 

385 

51,708 

2,85,000 

2.  Dewas,      Junior 

Branch,  portion 

H.H.Raja 

l  .  1  Ponwar  Maratha  . 

378 

44,4IQ 

2,95,000 

3.  Jaora 

H.H.Naw, 

ib  '<  Pathan  Musalman 

56S 

84,202 

8,50,000 

4.  Ratlam 

H.  H.  Raja 

t  .    Rathor  Rajput 

902 

83,773 

5,oo,coo 

5.  Sitamau     . 

H.  H.  Raja  .  1  Rathor  Rajput      . 

350 

^,863 

1,26,000 

6.  Sailana. 

H.  11.  Raja  .    Rathor  Rajput 

45° 

25,73! 

1,50,000 

7.  Piploda 

Thakur 

.    Doria  Rajput 

60 

11,441 

95,000 

8.  Ajraoda     . 

Thakur 

.    Ponwar  Maratha  . 

* 

* 

336 

9.  Bagli 

Thakur 

.    Rathor  Rajput 

108 

14.049 

1,00,000 

10.  Bardia  (Barra)    . 

Rao     . 

.    Chauhan  Rajput  . 

7 

568 

15,000 

11.  Barkhera      Deo 

Dungri     . 

Thakur 

. 

Rathor  Rajput 

4 

225 

2,800 

12.  Barkhera  Panth  . 

Thakur 

. 

Rathor  Rajput 

5 

375 

4,800 

13.  Bhatkheri  . 

Rawat 

i 

Chandrawat    Raj- 
put . 

1     35 

1,878 

15,000 

14.  Bhojakheil 

Rao      . 

.   Sondhia 

6 

250 

2,000 

15.  liichraud  I 

Thakur 

. ■  Chauhan  Rajput  . 

* 

* 

1,200 

16.  Bichraud  II 

Thakur 

. 

Chauhan  Rajput  . 

♦ 

* 

1,500 

17.  Bilaud 

Thakur 

I 

Muhammadan 
Saiyid 

|rt 

204 

6,500 

18.  Borkhera   . 

Thakur 

Rathor  Rajput 

8 

870 

13.900 

19.  Dabri 

Thakur 

.    Chauhan  Rajput  . 

* 

* 

180 

20.  Datana 

Thakur 

. '  Jadon  Rajput 

♦ 

% 

186 

31.  Dhulatia    . 

Thakur 

.    Khichi  Rajput 

* 

% 

1,221 

I    Goval        Sesodia 

j 

418 

22.  Jawasia 

Rao     . 

i 

Rajput 

\      \ 

10,000 

23.  Kalukhera 

Rao      . 

. 

Khichi  Rajput 

6 

932 

7,000 

i  Karaudia    and 

[  Thakur 

1 

jadon  Rajput 

10 

1,469 

8,000 

2 4'  {   KheriRajapnr 

Chauhan  Rajput  . 

6 

630 

4,180 

25.  Kherwasa  . 

Thakur 

.    Rathor  Rajput 

5 

716 

1 1 .000 

26.  Khojankhera 

Thakur 

.   Solanki  Rajput     . 

5 

549 

6,000 

27.  Lalgarh 

Diwan 

.    Chauhan  Rajput  . 

14 

1,838 

18,000 

28.  Narwar 

Rao      . 

.   Jhala  Rajput 

16 

1 ,4°5 

19,000 

29.  Naugaon   . 

Thakur 

.   Jadon  Rajput 

* 

* 

114 

30,  Panth-Piploda   . 

Pandit 

I  I  Karade  DakshanI 
\        Brahman . 

!  ■» 

3,544 

15,000 

31.  Patharl 

Thakur 

, 

Chauhan  Rajput  . 

15 

i,436 

16,000 

32.  PIplia 

Rawat . 

. 

Khichi  Rajput 

s 

600 

4,000 

33.  Sadakherl  ^Sheo- 

garh) 

Thakur 

. 

Rathor  Rajput 

2 

445 

42,000 

I  34.  Sanauda     . 

Thakur 

• 

Rathor  Rajput 

9 

J43 

2,200 

35.  Sarwan 

Thakur 

. 

Rathor  Rajput 

71 

4,056 

42.000 

36.  Shujaota    . 

Thakur 

. 

Solanki  Rajput     . 

7 

319 

10,000 

37.  Sidri . 

Thakur 

I 

Nima       Mahajan 
Bania 

!  ■ 

184 

3,000 

38.  Sirs!  . 

Thakur 

Rathor  Rajput 

15 

',352 

25,000 

39-Tal   . 

Rawat . 

.  I  Doria  Rajput 

10 

1,122 

10,000 

40.  Unl  . 

Thakur 

• 

Doria  Rajput 

5 

494 

1,800 

41.  Uparwara . 

Thakur 

. 

Solanki  Rajput     . 

10 

1,186 

20,000 

Portions  of 

42.  Gwalior     . 

•  •  •             •  ■  • 

...                ... 

5.246 

638,290 

33,49>00° 

43.  Indore 

•  •■ 

...                ... 

37 

12,404 

10,000 

44.  Tonk 

•  •  •             •  #  ■ 

...                ... 

248 

25,2S6 

1,40,000 

Railways,  canton 

ments,  and 

stations     . 

23,77J 

— 

Total 

8,919 

1,054,753 

62,38,917 

Note.— The  area  and  population  of  numbers  10-14.  17,  iS,  2.',  25,  26,  30,  32,  and  41,  have 
been  included  in  their  parent  State.  *  No  villages. 


also 


ioo  MAL  WA 

lying  between  23'  30'  and  240  30'  N.  and  740  30'  and  780  10'  E.,  which 
is  terminated  on  the  south  by  the  great  Vindhyan  range,  on  the  east 
by  the  arm  of  this  same  range  that  strikes  north  from  Bhopal  to 
Chanderi  (the  Kulachala  Parvata  of  the  Puranas),  on  the  west  by  the 
branch  which  reaches  from  Amjhera  to  Chitor  (in  Rajputana),  and 
on  the  north  by  the  Mukandwara  range  which  strikes  east  from  Chitor 
to  Chanderi.  Under  Muhammadan  rule  the  Subah  of  Malwa.  included, 
in  addition  to  the  tract  mentioned,  the  Nimar  district  on  the  south, 
between  the  Vindhya  and  Satpura  ranges,  Mewar  (now  in  Rajputana) 
on  the  west,  Haraoti  (the  Hara  States  of  Bundi  and  Kotah  in  Rajputana) 
on  the  north,  and  much  of  the  present  Central  Provinces  on  the  south- 
east, including  even  Garha  Mandla. 

Sindhia's  possessions  on  this  plateau,  which  comprise  the  Ujjain, 
Shajapur,  Mandasor,  and  Amjhera  zilas,  are  known  collectively  as  the 
Malwa  prant. 

Malwa  is  always  divided  by  natives  into  six  divisions  :  Kauntel, 
the  country  of  which  Mandasor  is  the  centre ;  Bagar,  of  which  Bans- 
wara  State  in  Rajputana  is  the  centre,  and  in  which  part  of  Ratlam 
State  lies ;  Rath,  the  country  in  which  the  greater  part  of  Jhabua  and  Jobat 
States  are  situated  ;  Sondwara,  the  country  of  the  Sondia  tribe,  of  which 
Mehidpur  is  the  centre ;  Umatwara,  the  country  of  the  Umat  Rajputs, 
now  represented  at  Rajgarh  and  Narsinghgarh  ;  and  Khlchiwara,  the 
land  of  the  Khichi  Chauhans,  of  which  Raghugarh  State  is  the  centre. 

The  plateau  is  mainly  composed  of  a  vast  spread  of  basaltic  rock, 

which  forms  great  rolling  downs,  dotted  over  with  the  fiat-topped  hills 

peculiar  to  that  geological  formation.     The  country 

Physical  js  hjgi^y  fertile,  being  principally  covered  by  the  soil 

here  called  mar  or  kail  by  the  natives,  and  '  black 

cotton  soil '  by  Europeans.     The  plateau  has  a  general  slope  towards 

the  north,  the  great  Vindhyan  scarp  to  its  south  forming  the  watershed. 

The  chief  rivers  are  the  ChaiMbal,  Sipra,  greater  and  lesser  Kali 

Sind,  and  Parbati.    The  people  are  skilful  and  industrious  cultivators. 

The  principal  crops  are  wheat,  gram,  Jozvdr,  cotton,  and  poppy.   Jowar 

occupies  about  44  per  cent,  of  the  cropped  area,  poppy  about  6  per 

cent.     The  annual  rainfall  averages  30  inches.     The  Rajasthani  dialect 

called  Malwi  or  Rangri  is  spoken  by  nearly  half  of  the  population. 

The  name  of  the  tract,  more  correctly  Malava,  was  originally  the 
designation  of  a  tribe,  which  is  mentioned  in  the  Mahabharata  and 
the  Ramayana ;  but  the  earliest  reference  to  their  habitation  is  a  some- 
what vague  statement  in  the  Vishnu  Purana  that  the  Malavas  lived  in 
the  Pariyatra  mountains,  or  western  Vindhyas,  while  the  name  Malava- 
desa,  '  country  of  the  Malavas,'  is  not  mentioned  in  any  Sanskrit  work 
before  the  second  century  B.C.,  and  then  refers  to  an  entirely  different 
locality,  probably  held  by  another  section  of  this  tribe.     From  these 


HISTORY  ,oi 

rather  involved  accounts,  it  appears  that  the  tract  now  known  as  Malwa 
was  not  so  called  till  the  tenth  century  a.  d.,  or  even  later.  The  Brihat 
Sanhita,  written  in  the  sixth  century,  does  indeed  mention  a  country 
called  Malava  ;  but  the  name  is  not  applied  to  the  present  Malwa,  which 
is  called  AvantI  in  the  same  work,  while  its  inhabitants  were  known 
as  Avantikas  or  Ujjayantikas.  The  latter  country,  of  which  AvantI 
(Ujjain)  was  the  chief  town,  comprised  the  tract  lying  between  the 
Vindhyas  on  the  south,  Jhalrapatan  (in  Rajputana)  on  the  north,  the 
Chambal  river  on  the  west,  and  the  Parbati  on  the  east.  To  the  east 
of  the  Parbati  lay  the  country  of  Akara,  or  Eastern  Malwa.  of  which 
Vidisha,  now  Bhilsa,  was  the  recognized  capital.  In  the  seventh 
century  Malwa  and  Ujjain  were  described  as  separate  principalities 
by  the  Chinese  traveller  Hiuen  Tsiang,  who  placed  the  former  to  the 
west  of  the  latter,  possibly  in  Gujarat.  Another  branch  of  the  Malavas 
appears  to  have  occupied  the  country  round  Nagaur  in  Rajputana, 
45  miles  north  of  Kotah,  where  large  numbers  of  their  coins  have  been 
found,  dating  probably  from  not  later  than  the  fourth  century  a.  d. 
The  Malavas  seem  to  have  been  at  first  a  nomadic  tribe  composed 
of  separate  units,  each  under  its  own  headman,  but  subsequently  they 
formed  a  regular  tribal  constitution.  They  also  inaugurated  an  era 
which  has  long  been  in  use  among  Hindus  north  of  the  Narbada,  and 
is  now  known  as  the  Vikrama  Samvat,  the  initial  year  corresponding 
to  57  B.C.  Till  the  tenth  century,  however,  the  word  Vikrama  is  never 
employed  with  dates  given  in  this  era,  which  are  always  designated 
as  of  the  Malava  era,  the  era  of  the  lords  of  Malava,  or  of  the  tribal 
constitution  of  the  Malavas.  No  historical  event  can  be  connected 
with  its  initial  year,  or  with  the  adoption  of  the  title  Vikrama, 
which  certainly  has  no  connexion  with  any  king  of  that  name  living 
in  57  B.C.,  as  is  popularly  supposed.  All  the  earliest  records  in  this 
era  come  from  Rajputana,  north-west  of  Malwa,  and  the  first  inscrip- 
tion in  Malwa  proper  is  that  at  Mandasok,  dated  in  the  year  493  of 
the  tribal  constitution  of  the  Malavas,  or  a.  d.  436. 

According  to  the  early  Buddhist  books,  Avantidesa  was  one  of 
the  sixteen  powers  of  India  in  Buddha's  lifetime,  its  chief  town,  Ujjain, 
being  important  as  one  of  the  principal  stages  on 
the  great  route  from  the  Deccan  to  Nepal,  which 
passed  through  Mahissati  or  Mahishmati,  now  Maheshwar,  and  Vidisha 
or  Bhilsa.  The  Maurya  dynasty  held  Malwa  among  their  western  pro- 
vinces, Asoka  being  governor  during  his  father's  lifetime,  with  his 
head-quarters  at  Ujjain.  On  his  accession  he  erected  the  great  stupa 
at  Sanchl,  where  a  fragment  of  one  of  his  edicts  has  been  found. 

Early  in  the  Christian  era  the  Western  Satraps  extended  their  rule 
over  Malwa.  The  Kshatrapa,  or  Satrap,  Chashtana  is  mentioned  by 
Ptolemy  (a.d.  153),  who  calls  him  Tiastenos  king  of  Ozene  (Ujjain). 


io2  MALWA 

From  Chashtana  onwards  a  regular  succession  of  Satraps  ruled  Malwa, 
the  most  famous  being  Rudradaman,  who  added  greatly  to  his  domi- 
nions, and  whose  record  at  Junagarh  in  Kathiawar  (a.d.  150)  mentions 
that  he  possessed  Akara  and  Avanti,  or  Eastern  and  Western  Malwa,  he 
himself  ruling  fromUjjain,  while  his  other  provinces  were  held  by  viceroys. 

As  the  rule  of  the  Satraps  died  away,  the  Guptas  of  Magadha  rose 
to  power.  Samudra  Gupta  (326-75),  in  his  Allahabad  pillar  inscription, 
mentions  the  Malavas  as  a  frontier  tribe.  His  successor  Chandra 
Gupta  II  (375-413)  extended  his  dominions  westwards  and,  driving 
out  the  Kshatrapas,  annexed  Malwa  about  a.d.  390,  as  his  records 
at  Sanchi  and  Udayagiri  show.  In  the  next  century  the  Gupta 
empire  broke  up  ;  and,  though  some  of  the  family  still  held  petty 
principalities,  the  greater  part  of  the  tract  fell  to  the  White  Hun 
adventurers,  Toramana  and  his  son  Mihirakula.  The  White  Huns 
probably  entered  India  towards  the  end  of  the  fifth  century,  and,  after 
occupying  the  Punjab,  forced  their  way  southwards.  During  Skanda 
Gupta's  lifetime  they  were  kept  in  check ;  but  on  his  death  Toramana 
occupied  the  districts  round  Gwalior,  where  an  inscription  put  up 
by  his  son  Mihirakula  has  been  found.  Advancing  farther  southwards, 
Toramana  and  his  son  soon  obtained  a  footing  in  Malwa,  which  by 
500  was  entirely  in  their  power,  the  petty  Gupta  chiefs  Budha  Gupta 
and  Bhanu  Gupta,  of  whom  records  dated  484  and  510  exist,  becoming 
their  feudatories.  On  Toramana's  death  about  510,  Mihirakula  suc- 
ceeded ;  but  his  harsh  rule  caused  a  revolt,  and  about  528  he  was 
defeated  by  a  combination  of  native  princes  under  Nara  Sinha  Gupta 
Baladitya  of  Magadha,  and  Yasodharman,  a  chief  who  seems  to  have 
ruled  at  Mandasor,  where  the  battle  was  fought.  Yasodharman  erected 
two  pillars  at  Mandasor,  recording  his  victory,  and  appears  then  to 
have  become  one  of  the  principal  chiefs  in  Malwa..  In  the  seventh 
century  the  famous  king  Harshavardhana  of  Kanauj  (606-48)  held 
suzerainty  over  Malwa. 

It  is  uncertain  when  the  Malavas  actually  entered  the  tract.  From 
the  second  to  the  seventh  century,  while  the  country  was  under  the 
strong  rule  of  the  Kshatrapas,  the  Guptas,  and  Harshavardhana  of 
Kanauj,  they  must  have  held  a  subordinate  position  ;  but  on  the  fall 
of  the  brief  empire  of  Kanauj  they  probably  acquired  greater  inde- 
pendence, and  rising  in  importance  gave  their  name  to  the  region. 
What  exactly  happened  is  uncertain  ;  but  it  would  appear  that  the 
Malavas  became  gradually  Hinduized,  possibly  from  contact  with 
the  Brahman  rulers  of  Ujjain,  and  being  a  hardy  race  of  warriors,  and 
as  such  desirable  allies,  were  promoted  to  Kshattriya  rank,  and  finally 
absorbed  into  the  great  Rajput  families  which  then  began  to  be  evolved 
out  of  the  heterogeneous  elements  of  which  the  population  of  India 
was  composed. 


HISTORY  103 

In  the  tenth  century  the  names  of  the  Rajput  clans  begin  to  appear, 
and  Malwa  fell  ultimately  to  the  Paramaras  (800-1200),  a  section 
of  the  Agnikula  group,  who  fixed  their  head-quarters  first  at  Ujjain 
and  later  at  Dhar.  They  rose  to  considerable  power,  so  that  '  the 
world  is  the  Paramara's '  became  a  common  saying.  The  Paramara 
lists  give  a  line  of  nineteen  kings  whose  known  records  range  from 
the  tenth  to  the  thirteenth  century,  and  of  whom  several  were  famous 
for  their  patronage  of  literature.  The  most  notable  was  Raja  Bhoja 
(1010-53),  who  was  both  a  great  scholar  and  a  great  warrior.  His 
renown  as  a  patron  of  literature  and  as  an  author  still  survives,  and 
he  is  now  looked  on  as  the  Augustus  of  India,  while  many  ancient 
writers  of  note  and  works  of  merit  are  assigned  to  his  period.  He 
was  finally  driven  from  his  throne  by  a  combination  of  the  Chalukyas 
of  Anhilvada  in  Gujarat  and  the  Kalachuris  of  Tripuri.  From  this 
time  the  Paramara  power  declined,  his  successors  being  little  more  than 
local  chiefs. 

In  1235  the  Muhammadans  first  appeared  under  Altamsh,  who  took 
Ujjain,  demolishing  the  renowned  temple  of  Mahakal,  and  sacked 
Bhllsa,  thus  destroying  the  two  principal  towns  of  Malwa.  From  this 
time  the  country  was  held  in  fief,  with  occasional  lapses,  by  officers 
of  the  Muhammadan  court,  till  in  1401  Dilawar  Khan  assumed  the 
insignia  of  royalty. 

From  1 40 1  till  1531,  when  it  was  annexed  to  Gujarat,  the  province 
of  Malwa  or  Mandu,  as  it  was  often  called  after  the  famous  fortress 
which  became  its  capital  under  these  rulers,  remained  an  independent 
State.  Its  princes  were  incessantly  at  war  with  those  of  Gujarat,  with 
the  Bahmani  kings  of  the  Deccan,  and  with  other  neighbouring  chiefs. 
Dilawar  Khan  Ghori  (140 1-5)  had  originally  received  Malwa  as  a  fief 
under  Flroz  Shah ;  but  during  the  confusion  that  followed  the  invasion 
of  Tlmur  he  became  independent,  making  Dhar  the  capital  of  his 
kingdom.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Alp  Khan,  better  known 
as  Hoshang  Shah  (1405-34),  the  founder  of  Hoshangabad,  who  lies 
buried  in  a  magnificent  marble  tomb  in  the  fort  at  Mandu,  to  which 
place  he  moved  the  capital.  He  left  a  minor  son,  Muhammad  Ghazni 
Khan,  whom  his  guardian,  Mahmud  KhiljT,  promptly  murdered,  seizing 
the  throne  for  himself.  Under  Mahmud  Khilji's  rule  (1436-75)  Malwa 
reached  the  zenith  of  its  power.  His  activity  was  unceasing,  so  that 
it  was  said  of  him  that  his  tent  became  his  home  and  the  field  of  battle 
his  resting-place,  and  yet  his  administration  was  marked  by  the  absence 
of  all  enmity  between  Hindus  and  Muhammadans.  Mahmud  extended 
his  dominions  in  all  directions,  seizing  among  other  places  Ajmer  and 
Ranthambhor  in  Rajputana,  and  Ellichpur  in  the  Deccan ;  and  in 
1440,  at  the  invitation  of  certain  nobles,  he  even  advanced  against 
Delhi,   but  was  successfully  opposed    by  Bahlol  Lodi.     In    1440   he 


to4  MALWA 

attacked  Rana  Kumbha  of  Chitor.  Both  sides  claimed  the  victory, 
and  the  Rana  erected  the  famous  Tower  of  Victory,  still  standing  in 
the  fort,  in  honour  of  his  success.  Mahmud  was  succeeded  by  his 
son,  Ghiyas-ud-dln  (147 5-1 500).  Having  undergone  much  toil  and 
anxiety  during  his  father's  lifetime,  Ghiyas-ud-din  soon  handed  over  the 
reins  of  government  to  his  son,  Nasir-ud-dln,  and  retired  to  his  harem. 
Nasir-ud-din  (1500-10)  has  left  a  reputation  infamous  for  cruelty. 
He  is  said  even  to  have  poisoned  his  father,  an  act  which  roused  such 
indignation  in  the  emperor  Jahangir  that,  when  visiting  Mandu  in 
16 1 6,  he  had  the  king's  remains  taken  out  of  the  tomb  and  thrown 
into  the  Narbada.  Nasir-ud-din  was  drowned  in  a  tank  in  the  Kaliadeh 
palace,  near  Ujjain,  into  which  he  had  fallen  in  a  drunken  fit,  no  one 
daring  or  caring  to  pull  him  out.  He  was  succeeded  by  Mahmud  II 
(1510-31).  Of  him  the  historian  relates  that  he  imagined  that  king- 
doms were  ruled  by  the  sword,  and  that  he  attempted  to  put  this 
maxim  into  practice  with  dire  results.  Distrusting  his  own  people, 
he  introduced  a  Rajput,  Medini  Rai,  into  his  State  as  minister.  In 
1517,  scared  by  the  increasing  power  of  this  man,  he  called  in  Sultan 
Muzaffar  Shah  of  Gujarat  to  assist  in  his  expulsion.  Later  on,  in 
a  fight  with  Medini  Rai  and  Rana  Sanga  of  Chitor,  he  was  taken 
prisoner,  but  was  magnanimously  released.  This,  however,  did  not 
deter  him  from  attacking  the  Rana's  successor  some  years  later,  when 
he  was  again  taken  prisoner  by  the  Rana's  ally,  Bahadur  Shah  of 
Gujarat,  and  put  to  death  while  attempting  to  escape.  The  Malwa 
dynasty  thus  came  to  an  end,  the  kingdom  being  annexed  to  Gujarat 

(i53i)- 

In  1535  Humayun  attacked  Bahadur  Shah  and  drove  him  out  of 
Malwa,  defeating  him  successively  at  Mandasor  and  Mandu.  During 
the  rule  of  the  Suri  dynasty  (1540-55),  Malwa  was  held  by  Sher  Shah's 
right-hand  man  Shujaat  Khan,  known  locally  by  the  name  of  Shujawal 
Khan,  the  founder  of  Shujalpur,  and  on  his  death  by  his  son  Baz 
Bahadur,  chiefly  famous  for  his  musical  talent,  and  his  romantic  attach- 
ment to  the  beautiful  and  accomplished  Rupmatl  of  Sarangpur.  In 
1562  Baz  Bahadur  was  forced  to  submit  to  Akbar,  and  Malwa  became 
a  Mughal  province,  continuing  so  until  the  eighteenth  century.  Abul 
Fazl  deals  with  the  province  at  some  length  in  the  Ain-i-Akban.  The 
Silbah  varied  considerably  in  extent  at  different  times.  In  1594  it 
contained  twelve  sarkars  (districts),  but  in  1665  it  had  only  nine. 
Malwa  possessed  special  importance  from  its  position  on  the  great 
Mughal  route,  along  which  armies  marched  from  Delhi  to  the  Deccan, 
the  road  passing  by  Dholpur,  Gwalior,  Narwar,  Sironj,  and  Hindia. 
Among  the  numerous  governors  of  Malwa  during  this  period  were 
prince  Murad  (1591),  the  first  Nizam-ul-mulk  (17 19),  and  Maharaja 
Sawai  Jai  Singh  of  Jaipur  (1734). 


MAMANDUR  105 

The  Maratha  period  of  Malwa  history  forms  the  subject  of  Sir  fohn 
Malcolm's  Central  India,  where  it  is  treated  in  great  detail.  Briefly, 
the  Marathas  gained  a  permanent  footing  in  Malwa  about  1743,  when 
the  Peshwa  was  made  deputy-governor  of  the  Subah.  By  degrees  the 
whole  country  fell  to  the  great  Maratha  generals,  whose  descendants 
still  hold  most  of  it — Sindhia  of  Gwalior,  Holkar  of  Indore,  and  the 
Ponwars  of  Dhar  and  Dewas. 

In  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  British  appeared  as 
actors  on  this  scene;  and  Malwa  from  1780  onwards,  for  a  quarter 
of  a  century,  was  a  vast  battle-field  where  Maratha,  Muhammadan,  and 
European  struggled  incessantly,  until  the  supremacy  of  the  British  was 
finally  established  in  1818.  During  the  next  forty  years  the  history 
of  Malwa  was  comparatively  uneventful ;  but  in  connexion  with  the 
Mutiny  of  1S57  risings  took  place  at  Indore,  Mhow,  Nlmach,  Agar, 
Mehidpur,  and  Sehore.  In  1 899-1 900  Malwa  suffered  from  a  severe 
famine,  such  as  had  not  visited  this  favoured  spot  for  more  than  thirty 
years.  The  people  were  unused  to,  and  quite  unprepared  for,  this 
calamity,  the  distress  being  aggravated  by  the  great  influx  of  immigrants 
from  Rajputana,  who  had  hitherto  always  been  sure  of  relief  in  this 
region,  of  which  the  fertility  is  proverbial.  In  1903  a  new  calamity 
appeared  in  the  shape  of  plague,  which  has  seriously  reduced  the 
agricultural  population  in  some  districts. 

[For  Malavas  and  Kshatrapas,  see  Journal  of  the  Royal  Asiatic 
Society,  1890,  p.  639,  1897,  p.  17,  and  1899,  p.  357  ;  for  Guptas  and 
Hunas,  J.  F.  Fleet's  '  Gupta  Inscriptions,'  vol.  iii  of  the  Corpus  Inscrip- 
tionum  Indicarum  ;  Journal  Asiatique,  1883  ;  Journal  of  the  Royal 
Asiatic  Society,  1893,  p.  77,  and  1897,  pp.  19,  421,  850,  and  882  ;  for 
Paramaras,  Epigraphia  Indica,  vol.  i,  p.  222  ;  for  Muhammadan  dynasty, 
L.  White-King,  Numismatic  Chronicle  (1904).] 

Malwa  (2). — Tract  in  the  Punjab,  lying  between  290  and  310  N. 
and  740  30'  and  770  E.,  and  comprising  the  area  south  of  the  Sutlej 
occupied  by  the  Sikhs.  It  includes  the  Districts  of  Ferozepore  and 
Ludhiana,  and  the  Native  States  of  Patiala,  Jind,  Nabha,  and  Maler 
Kotla.  The  tract  is  a  great  recruiting  ground  for  Sikh  regiments, 
being  in  this  respect  second  only  to  the  Manjha.  It  is  said  that  the 
name  is  a  modern  one,  the  title  of  Malava  Singh  having  been  conferred 
on  the  Sikhs  of  the  tract  for  their  valour  by  Banda,  Bairagi,  who  pro- 
mised that  it  should  become  as  fruitful  as  Malwa.. 

Mamandur. — Village  in  the  Arcot  taluk  of  North  Arcot  District, 
Madras,  situated  in  I2°45/  N.  and  790  40'  E.  Population  (1901),  1,884. 
It  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  its  rock-caves.  The  embankment  of  the 
large  tank  to  which  the  village  gives  its  name  rests  upon  two  low  hills, 
and  in  the  eastern  face  of  the  more  southerly  of  these  are  the 
excavations.     They  were  probably  the  work  of  the  Jains  ;  and  possibly 


io6  MAMANDUR 

a  party  of  monks  from  Conjeeveram,  which  is  only  7  miles  distant,  may 
here  have  hollowed  out  for  themselves  a  retreat  with  narrow  cells  into 
which  each  might  retire  to  indulge  in  solitary  meditation. 

Mamdapur. — Historic  village  in  the  District  and  tahika  of  Bijapur, 
Bombay,  situated  in  160  32'  N.  and  750  36'  E.,  6  miles  north  of  the 
Kistna  and  about  22  miles  south-west  of  Bijapur  town.  Population 
(1901),  2,232.  The  story  goes  that  Muhammad  (1626-56),  the  sixth 
Bijapur  Sultan,  wished  to  know  what  the  Konkan  was  like.  His  prime 
minister,  the  celebrated  Jagad-Murari,  built  ponds,  laid  out  fields,  and 
planted  trees  and  vegetables  from  the  Konkan  on  the  site  of  Mamda- 
pur, which  so  pleased  the  Sultan  that,  about  1633,  he  united  the 
villages  of  Antapur,  Barigi,  Khasbagh,  and  Chavdapur,  and  named 
the  new  village  after  himself,  fulfilling  the  prophecy  of  a  saint,  Kamal 
Sahib  of  Chavdapur,  who  had  foretold  the  event.  The  saint's  tomb 
is  in  the  middle  of  the  market  and  is  highly  honoured.  In  the  shrine 
is  the  grave  of  another  saint,  Sadie  Sahib  of  Mecca,  who  died  here  and 
in  whose  honour  a  fair  is  held  yearly.  There  are  numerous  temples. 
Mamdapur  contains  two  lakes  made  by  Sultan  Muhammad,  when 
the  town  was  built.  The  great  lake  is  probably  the  largest  existing 
reservoir  of  native  construction  in  the  Bombay  Presidency.  When  full, 
its  surface  area  is  864  acres,  or  \\  square  miles;  the  dam  is  2,662  feet 
long,  or  just  over  half  a  mile,  and  its  greatest  height  is  27  feet  9  inches. 
Except  in  seasons  of  unusual  drought  the  water  in  this  lake  lasts 
throughout  the  year.  The  smaller  lake,  to  the  east  of  the  large  lake, 
when  full  has  a  surface  area  of  428  acres  and  a  greatest  depth  of 
12  feet;  the  dam  is  1,180  feet  long.  The  inscriptions  cut  on  the 
dams  show  that  both  were  built  in  1633  at  a  cost  of  about  2  lakhs 
(50,000  pagodas)  by  Sultan  Muhammad. 

Mamdot  Estate  {Muhammadof). — Estate  in  the  Ferozepore, 
Muktsar,  and  Fazilka  tahslls  of  Ferozepore  District,  Punjab.  Area, 
83  square  miles  of  proprietary  land,  with  309  held  in  jagir.  It  is  held 
by  the  minor  Nawab  of  Mamdot,  Ghulam  Kutb-ud-din  Khan,  a  Pathan, 
whose  ancestor  Kutb-ud-din  Khan  held  the  principality  of  Kasur,  but 
was  expelled  from  it  by  RanjTt  Singh  in  1807  and  retired  to  Mamdot, 
which  he  had  conquered  from  the  Raikot  chief  in  1800.  His  son  • 
Jamal-ud-dln  Khan  held  Mamdot  as  a  fief  of  the  Lahore  kingdom 
till  1848,  when  he  received  the  title  of  Nawab,  with  the  powers  of 
a  ruling  chief,  from  the  British  Government ;  but  the  powers  thus 
conferred  were  abused  by  Jamal-ud-dln  Khan,  and  were  therefore 
withdrawn,  the  State  being  annexed  to  British  territory  in  1855.  It 
was,  however,  subsequently  conferred  as  an  estate  on  the  Nawab's 
younger  brother  Jalal-ud-din  Khan,  who  had  rendered  good  service 
in  1848  and  1857.  Jalal-ud-din  died  in  1875,  leaving  a  minor  son, 
by  name   Nizam-ud-dln   Khan,   and   the  estate  was   managed  by   the 


MAN  io7 

Court  of  Wards  until  1884,  when  the  ward  came  of  age  and  took 
charge  of  it.  He  died  in  1891,  leaving  an  infant  son  and  the  estate 
heavily  involved  in  debt.  It  is  now  again  under  control  of  the  Court 
of  Wards,  and  the  young  Nawab  is  being  educated  at  the  Aitchison 
College,  Lahore.  The  gross  income  of  the  estate,  which  is  the  finest 
in  the  Punjab,  is  now  Rs.  3,80,000.  It  owes  its  prosperity  mainly  to 
the  Grey  Canals. 

Mamdot  Village.— Village  in  Ferozepore  District,  Punjab,  and 
former  capital  of  a  State,  situated  in  300  53'  N.  and  740  26'  E.,  on  the 
open  plain,  about  2  miles  south  of  the  Sutlej.  Population  (1901), 
2,631.  The  walls  rise  to  a  height  of  50  feet,  and  have  a  rectangular 
form,  with  a  round  tower  at  each  corner  and  in  the  middle  of  each 
face.  More  than  two-thirds  of  the  fort  was  carried  away  in  1877-8  by 
the  Sutlej,  and  a  branch  of  that  river  now  flows  under  the  walls  of  the 
remainder.  Anciently  known  as  Muhammadot,  it  formed  the  centre 
of  an  ilaka,  which  became  depopulated  during  the  Mughal  period  and 
was  occupied  by  the  Dogars  about  1750.  Shortly  afterwards,  the 
Dogars  made  themselves  independent,  but  were  reduced  to  subjec- 
tion by  Sardar  Subha  Singh,  a  Sikh  chieftain.  With  the  assistance  of 
the  Rai  of  Raikot,  they  expelled  the  Sikhs ;  but  the  Rai  made  him- 
self supreme  at  Mamdot,  and  the  Dogars  then  revolted  with  the  aid  of 
Nizam-ud-dm  and  Kutb-ud-dln  of  Kasur.  Nizam-ud-dTn  was  murdered 
by  his  three  brothers-in-law,  whom  he  had  ousted  from  their  jaglrs. 
Kutb-ud-dln  eventually  submitted  to  Ranjit  Singh,  relinquishing  Kasur, 
but  retaining  Mamdot  in  jagir  subject  to  the  service  of  100  horse. 
Nizam-ud-dln's  son  received  a  corresponding  jagir  in  Gogaira,  but  laid 
claim  to  Mamdot.  With  the  Dogars'  aid  he  expelled  Kutb-ud-dln,  but 
was  finally  recalled  by  the  Maharaja,  who  confirmed  Jamal-ud-din,  son 
of  Kutb-ud-dln,  in  the  succession.  Jamal-ud-din  sided  openly  with  the 
Sikhs  in  1845,  Dut  rendered  certain  services  towards  the  close  of  the 
campaign  to  the  British  Government,  which  requited  him  by  maintain- 
ing him  in  possession  of  Mamdot  as  a  protected  chief  with  the  title 
of  Nawab.  Jamal-ud-din,  however,  was  guilty  of  serious  misgovern- 
ment,  and  the  Dogars  especially,  having  incurred  his  resentment, 
suffered  grave  oppression.  The  British  Government  therefore,  after 
an  inquiry,  deposed  him  in  1855,  and  annexed  his  territory.  His 
estates  were  in  1864  conferred  on  his  brother  Jalal-ud-din,  to  the  exclu- 
sion of  his  sons.  The  present  Nawab,  Ghulam  Kutb-ud-dln,  wtio 
succeeded  in  1891,  is  the  grandson  of  Jalal-ud-din . 

Man. —  Tahika  of  Satara  District,  Bombay,  lying  between  170  27' 
and  17°  56'  N.  and  740  17'  and  740  53'  E.,  with  an  area  of  629  square 
miles.  It  contains  one  town,  Mhasvad  (population,  7,014),  and 
76  villages.  The  head-quarters  are  at  Dahivadi.  The  population 
in  1901   was  64,889,  compared  with  62,857  in  1891.     It  is  the  most 

VOL.  XVII.  n 


10S  MAN 

thinly  populated  tdluka  in  the  District,  having  a  density  of  only 
103  persons  per  square  mile.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  92,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  7,000.  The  climate  is 
decidedly  hotter  than  the  rest  of  the  District,  which  is  chiefly  due  to 
the  low  level  of  the  tdluka  and  the  fact  of  its  being  shut  in  on  three 
sides  by  hills.  Towards  the  north-west  the  hills  form  picturesque 
groups,  their  highest  peaks  crowned  by  the  Varugarh  and  Tathvada 
forts,  and  to  the  east  of  Dahivadi  is  a  fine  gorge,  traversed  by  streams ; 
but,  except  for  a  sparsely-wooded  tract  near  the  Man  river,  the  country 
is  barren,  rocky,  and  desolate.  The  annual  rainfall,  which  averages 
20  inches  at  Dahivadi,  is  variable  and  scanty,  and  hardly  suffices  for 
the  proper  cultivation  of  the  small  area  of  black  soil  in  the  tdluka. 

Mana. — Village  in  Garhwal  District,  United  Provinces,  situated  in 
310  5'  N.  and  790  26'  E.,  on  the  Saraswati,  an  affluent  of  the  Bishan- 
ganga,  10,560  feet  above  sea-level.  It  lies  close  to  a  pass  of  the  same 
name,  also  known  as  Chirbitya-la  or  Dungri-la,  which  has  an  elevation 
of  18,650  feet.  Though  very  lofty,  it  is  one  of  the  easiest  passes  into 
Tibet  from  the  south,  and  is  therefore  much  used  by  Hindu  pilgrims 
to  Lake  Manasarowar.  The  village  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  Bhotia 
traders  with  Tibet. 

Manaar,  Gulf  of. — A  portion  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  bounded  on  the 
west  by  Tinnevelly  and  Madura  Districts  in  the  Madras  Presidency,  on 
the  north  by  the  ridge  of  rock  and  islands  known  as  Adam's  Bridge, 
and  on  the  east  by  the  coast  of  Ceylon.  It  lies  between  8°  and  90  N. 
and  7 8°  and  8o°  E.  Its  extreme  breadth  from  Cape  Comorin,  the 
southernmost  point  of  India,  to  Point  de  Galle,  the  southernmost  point 
of  Ceylon,  is  about  200  miles.  The  gulf  abounds  in  dangerous  shoals 
and  rocks  at  the  northern  extremity,  and  is  exposed  to  the  fury  of  both 
the  monsoons,  being  quite  open  towards  the  south-west  and  only 
partially  protected  by  the  Ceylon  coast  on  the  north-east. 

Manabum. — Range  of  hills  on  the  extreme  eastern  frontier  of 
Lakhimpur  District,  Assam,  lying  between  270  30'  and  270  47'  N.  and 
950  54'  and  960  18'  E.  These  hills  are  an  outlying  spur  of  the  mountain 
country  occupied  by  the  Singphos  and  Khamtis,  and  mark  the  eastern 
limit  of  the  administrative  jurisdiction  of  the  British  Government. 

Manantoddy. — Village  in  the  Wynaad  taluk  of  Malabar  District, 
Madras,  situated  in  ii°  49'  N.  and  760  E.  Population  (1901),  2,000. 
It  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  divisional  officer  and  tahsilddr,  and  of 
one  of  the  two  Forest  officers  of  the  District. 

Manar,  Gulf  of.  —Gulf  between  India  and  Ceylon.  See  Manaar, 
Gulf  of. 

Manargudi.  —Subdivision,  taluk,  and  town  in  Tanjore  District, 
Madras.     See  Mannargudi. 

Manas. — River   of   Assam,   which    rises  in    the   Bhutan    hills   and 


MANAVADAR  log 

enters  the  valley  of  the  Brahmaputra  at  the  point  where  the  Districts  of 
Kamrup  and  Goalpara  meet.  It  once  formed  the  boundary  between 
these,  but  its  channel  is  subject  to  frequent  changes,  and  the  greater 
part  of  its  present  course  lies  within  Goalpara.  The  principal  tribu- 
taries are  :  on  the  right  bank,  the  Makra,  Dulani,  Ai,  Pomajan, 
Bhandura,  and  Koija;  and  on  the  left  bank,  the  Chaulkhoa.  The 
banks  are,  as  a  rule,  covered  with  jungle ;  and  the  river  is  not  much 
used  as  a  trade  route  above  its  junction  with  the  Chaulkhoa,  though 
boats  of  4  tons  burden  could  probably  go  as  far  as  Mowkhoa  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year.  Some  damage  is  caused  by  the  floods  of  an 
old  channel  known  as  the  Mora  Manas.  The  total  length  of  the 
Manas  is  about  200  miles. 

Manasa. — Town  in  the  Rampura-Bhanpura  district  of  Indore  State, 
Central  India,  and  head-quarters  of  the  pargana  of  the  same  name, 
situated  in  24°  29/  N.  and  in  750  n'  E.,  1,440  feet  above  sea-level. 
Population  (1901),  4,589.  The  town  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  Mana  Patel  of  the  Mina  tribe.  From  an  inscription  in  the  temple 
to  Kherapati,  it  must  have  been  in  existence  in  .the  twelfth  century. 
In  1749  it  was  held  by  Raja  Madho  Singh  of  Jaipur,  falling  to  Holkar 
in  1752  with  the  Rampura  district.  Besides  the  pargana  offices, 
a  school,  a  dispensary,  a  State  post  office,  and  an  inspection  bunga- 
low are  situated  in  the  town. 

Manauli. — Estate  in  the  Kharar  and  Rupar  tahslls  of  Ambala 
District,  Punjab,  with  an  area  of  1 1  square  miles.  It  was  the  prin- 
cipal jagir  held  till  recently  by  a  member  of  the  Faizullahpuria  or 
Singhpuria  family,  which  was  one  of  the  twelve  great  Sikh  misls  or 
confederacies.  Founded  early  in  the  eighteenth  century  by  Kapur 
Singh,  a  Jat  of  Amritsar  District,  the  family  played  a  great  part  in 
the  Jullundur  Doab  under  his  great-nephew,  Budh  Singh.  In  181  r, 
however,  the  Singhpurias  were  expelled  from  their  territories  north 
of  the  Sutlej  by  Ranjit  Singh's  generals,  and  confined  to  the  estates 
south  of  that  river,  which  they  still  hold.  From  1809  to  1846  the 
family  ranked  as  independent  protected  chiefs,  but  they  lost  their 
status  in  the  latter  year.  The  last  owner,  Sardar  Raghubir  Singh, 
held  81  villages  in  jagir.  These  yield  a  net  revenue  of  Rs.  36,000, 
and  the  Sardar  had  also  other  estates.  After  his  death  in  1904,  the 
jagir  was  divided  among  a  number  of  his  relatives. 

Manaung.  —  Island  forming  part  of  Kyaukpyu  District,  Lower 
Burma.     See  Cheduba. 

Manavadar  (or  Bantva-Manavadar). — State  in  the  Kathiawar  Politi- 
cal Agency,  Bombay,  lying  between  210  23'  and  210  41'  X.  and  700 
2'  and  700  23'  E.,  with  an  area  of  90  square  miles.  The  population 
in  1901  was  14,478,  residing  in  23  villages.  The  revenue  in  1903-4 
was  Rs.  2,35,447,  and  S3  square  miles  were  cultivated.     Manavadar 

h  2 


no  MANAVADAR 

ranks  as  a  third-class  State  in  Kathiawar.  The  ruling  family  is  Musal- 
man,  and  is  descended  from  a  younger  son  of  the  second  Nawab  of 
Junagarh,  to  whom  the  Bantva  territory  was  made  over  in  1740. 
Engagements  to  keep  order  and  remain  at  peace  were  entered  into 
with  the  British  Government  in  1807.  There  are  two  sharers  with 
the  ruling  chief,  both  holding  the  title  of  Babi,  one  of  whom  re- 
sides at  Sardargarh  and  the  other  at  Bantva. 

Manavan. — Petty  State  in  Kathiawar,  Bombay. 

Manbhum.—  District  in  the  Chota  Nagpur  Division  of  Bengal, 
lying  between  220  43'  and  240  4'  N.  and  -85°  49'  and  86°  54'  E., 
with  an  area  of  4,147  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Hazaribagh  and  the  Santal  Parganas  ;  on  the  east  by  Burdwan, 
Bankura,  and  Midnapore ;  on  the  south  by  Singhbhum ;  and  on 
the  west  by  Ranch!  and  Hazaribagh.  The  whole  of  the  northern 
boundary  is  marked  by  the  Barakar  river;  on  the  north-east,  the 
Barakar  and  Damodar  rivers  separate  the  District  from  Burdwan ; 
while  the  Subarnarekha  flows  along  the  boundary  for  short  distances 
on  the  west  and  south. 

Manbhum  District  forms  the  first  step  of  a  gradual  descent  from 

the  table-land  of  Chota  Nagpur  to  the  delta  of  Lower  Bengal.    The 

undulation  so  characteristic  of  Chota  Nagpur  here 

Physical  becomes  less  pronounced,  and  level  tracts  of  con- 

3.SD6CtS 

siderable   extent    are   of    frequent   occurrence.      In 
the  north  and  east  the  country  is  open,  and  consists  of  a  series  of 
rolling   downs,    dotted    here   and    there    with    isolated    conical   hills. 
During  the  hot  season  the  scarcity  of  trees  gives  to  this  part  of  the 
country  a  scorched  and  dreary  appearance  ;  but  in  the  rains  the  fresh 
green  of  the  young  rice  and  the  varying  foliage  of   the  low  jungle 
form  contrasts  of  colouring  with   the  soil,   and  the  scenery  assumes 
a  park-like  aspect.    In  the  west  and  south  the  country  is  more  broken 
and  the  scenery  far  more  picturesque.     Here  the  Baghmundi  range 
striking  out  from  the  plateau  of  Chota  Nagpur,   and  farther  to  the 
south  the  Dalma  range  dividing  Manbhum  from  Singhbhum,  stand 
up  as  commanding  features  in  the  landscape.     These  hills  are  covered 
almost  to  their  summits  with  large  and  heavy  forest.     The  principal 
hills  are  Dalma  (3,407   feet),  the  highest  peak  of  the  range  of  that 
name;    Panchkot  or  Panchet  (1,600  feet),  situated  to  the  north-east 
of  Purulia  ;  and  Gangabari  or  Gajburu,  the  highest  peak  of  the  Bagh- 
mundi  plateau,    situated    about    20    miles    south-west    from    Purulia. 
The  principal   river  is  the   Kasai,  which    flows  through   the   District 
from   north-west  to   south-east   and   then  turns  almost  due   south  as 
it  passes  into  Midnapore;    the   total   length   of  its   course   is  about 
171    miles.     Just  above  Raipur  the   Kasai  forms  rapids  and  several 
picturesque    waterfalls   of    no   great    height.      The    Damodar    flows 


MANBHUM  rrr 

through  Manbhum  in  an  easterly  direction  with  a  slight  inclination 
to  the  south.  Its  chief  tributary,  the  Barakar,  has  already  been 
mentioned  as  forming  part  of  the  north-eastern  boundary  of  the 
District,  and  the  Subarnarekha  as  dividing  it  on  the  west  and  south 
from  Ranch!  and  Singhbhum.  The  only  other  rivers  of  any  impor- 
tance are  the  Dhalkisor,  which  rises  in  the  east  of  Manbhum  and 
after  a  short  south-easterly  course  enters  Bankura;  and  the  Silai, 
also  rising  in  the  east  of  the  District  and  flowing  south-east  into 
Bankura. 

The  geological  formations  are  the  Archaean  and  the  Gondwana. 
The  Archaean  rocks  consist  of  gneiss  and  crystalline  schists,  the 
gneiss  occupying  by  far  the  largest  portion  of  the  District.  It  be- 
longs principally  to  the  group  known  as  Bengal  gneiss,  which  is 
remarkable  for  its  varied  composition,  consisting  of  successive  bands 
of  intermixed  granitic,  granulitic,  and  dioritic  gneisses,  and  micaceous 
chloritic  and  hornblendic  schists,  with  a  laminated  or  foliated  structure 
striking  usually  east  and  west.  About  the  centre  of  the  District  is 
a  great  belt  of  unfoliated  or  only  slightly  foliated  granitic  intrusions, 
also  striking  east  and  west,  and  extending  westwards  into  the  adjacent 
District  of  Ranchl.  Crystalline  limestones  occasionally  occur.  Along 
the  southern  boundary  there  exists  a  group  of  rocks  resembling  the 
Dharwar  schists  of  Southern  India,  which  were  originally  sedimentary 
and  volcanic,  but  have  been  altered  into  quartzites,  quartzitic  sand- 
stones, slates  of  various  kinds,  hornblendic  mica,  and  talcose  and 
chloritic  schists,  the  latter  passing  into  potstones,  green  stones,  and 
epidiorites. 

Quite  close  to  the  southern  boundary  of  Manbhum  the  schists 
are  invaded  by  a  gigantic  dike  of  basic  igneous  rock,  forming  an 
imposing  east  and  west  range  which  culminates  in  the  lofty  Dalma 
hill.  The  schists  are  here  more  metamorphosed  than  elsewhere,  with 
a  considerable  development  of  iron  ores ;  in  this  neighbourhood, 
moreover,  the  rocks  are  richest  in  gold. 

The  Gondwanas,  whose  age  as  determined  by  fossil  plants  is  partly 
upper  palaeozoic  and  partly  mesozoic,  are  the  principal  rocks  from 
an  economic  point  of  view.  They  occur  along  the  Damodar  river 
and  form  the  Ranlganj  coal-field,  the  western  portion  of  which  lies 
in  Manbhum,  and  the  rich  Jherria  coal-field  almost  entirely  situated 
within  the  District.  The  Gondwana  rocks  comprise  the  Mahadeva, 
Panchet,  Ramganj,  ironstone  shales,  Barakar,  and  Talcher  divisions, 
of  which  all  but  the  first  belong  to  the  Lower  Gondwanas.  The 
series  consists  throughout  almost  exclusively  of  shales  and  sand- 
stones. The  coal  seams  are  restricted  to  the  Barakar  and  Ranlganj 
divisions. 

The  coal-fields  owe  their  preservation  from   denudation  and   their 


1 1 2  MANBHUM 

present  situation  to  a  system  of  faults  that  has  sunk  them  amidst 
the  surrounding  gneiss.  The  faults  are  easily  recognized  along  their 
boundaries,  especially  on  the  south,  and  sulphurous  hot  springs  are 
often  situated  in  their  neighbourhood.  Innumerable  fissures  are  occu- 
pied by  intrusive  dikes  of  basalt  and  of  mica-apatite-peridotite,  the 
latter  being  frequently  detrimental  to  the  coal  seams,  which  have  often 
been  burnt  away  by  it.  These  intrusions  are  of  the  same  age  as  the 
volcanic  rocks  of  the  Rajmahal  hills1. 

The  narrower  valleys  are  often  embanked  for  rice  cultivation,  and 
the  rice-fields  and  their  margins  abound  in  marsh  and  water  plants. 
The  surface  of  the  plateau  land  between  the  valleys,  where  level,  is 
often  bare  and  rocky,  but  where  undulating  is  usually  clothed  with 
a  dense  scrub  jungle,  in  which  Dendrocalamus  strictus  is  prominent. 
The  steep  slopes  of  the  higher  hills  are  covered  with  a  dense  forest 
mixed  with  climbers.  Sal  (Shorea  robustd)  is  gregarious  ;  among  the 
other  noteworthy  trees  are  species  of  Buchanania,  Semecarpus,  Ter- 
minalia,  Cedrela,  Cassia,  Butea,  Bauhinia,  Acacia,  and  Aditia,  which 
these  forests  share  with  similar  ones  on  the  lower  Himalayan  slopes. 
Mixed  with  these,  however,  are  a  number  of  characteristically  Central 
India  trees  and  shrubs,  such  as  Cochlospermum,  Soymida,  Boswellia, 
Hardwickia,  and  Bassia,  which  do  not  cross  the  Gangetic  plain.  One 
of  the  features  of  the  upper  edge  of  the  hills  is  a  dwarf  palm,  Phoe?iix 
acaulis ;  while  the  wealth  of  scarlet  blossom  in  the  hot  season  pro- 
duced by  the  abundance  of  Butea  frondosa  and  B.  stiperba  is  also 
striking. 

Tigers,  leopards,  bears,  wolves,  hyenas,  deer,  and  wild  dogs  were 
formerly  common,  but  are  now  decreasing  in  numbers,  tigers  being 
very  rare  visitors.  The  short-tailed  Indian  pangolin  {Manis  penta- 
dactyld),  which  owing  to  its  peculiar  habits  is  one  of  the  least-known 
quadrupeds  in  India,  is  occasionally  found  in  the  jungles  bordering 
on  Singhbhum. 

Temperature  is  moderate,  except  during  the  hot  months  of  April. 
Ma}',  and  June,  when  the  westerly  winds  from  Central  India  cause 
great  heat  with  very  low  humidity.  The  mean  temperature  increases 
from  S20  in  March  to  890  in  April,  May,  and  June,  the  mean  maximum 
from  950  in  March  to  1010  in  May,  and  the  mean  minimum  from 
68°  to  760.  The  annual  rainfall  averages  53  inches,  of  which  8-9  inches 
fall  in  June,  13-4  in  July,  13-2  in  August,  and  7-8  in  September. 

1  The  Archaean  series  has  been  described  by  V.  Ball,  Memoirs,  Geological ' Swvey  of 
India,  vol.  xviii,  pt.  ii ;  the  Ranlganj  coal-field  by  W.  T.  Blanford,  Memoirs,  vol.  iii, 
pt.  i ;  the  Jherria  coal-field  by  Th.  Hughes.  Memoirs,  vol.  v,  pt.  iii,  and  by  Th.  "Ward, 
Records,  Geological  Survey  of  India,  vol.  xxv,  pt.  ii ;  the  mica-apatite-peridotites  by 
T.  H.  Holland,  Records,  vol.  xxvii,  pt.  iv. 

The  above  account  was  contributed  by  Mr.  E.  Vredenburg  of  the  Geological  Survev 
of  India. 


HISTORY  n3 

The  distinctive  tribe  of  the  District  is  the  Bhumij,  who  are  closely 
allied  to  the  Mundas  and  have  been  identified  with  the  Bajra  Bhumi 
of  Jain  legendary  history.     The  ancient  Jains  have 
left  their  traces  in  the  ruins  of  temples  near  Purulia 
and  several  places  along  the  course  of  the  Kasai  and  Damodar  rivers  ; 
but  we    have   no  authentic   records   of  this  part  of  the  country  till 
Muhammadan  times,  when  it  was  regarded  as  part  of  the  Jharkand 
or  'forest  tract,"  which  is  the  name  given  in  the  Akbarnama  to  the 
whole  region  from  Blrbhum  and  Panchet  to  Ratanpur  in  the  Central 
Provinces  and  from  Rohtasgarh  in  South  Bihar  to  the  frontier  of  Orissa. 
In  the  Badshahnama  the  zavundar  of  Panchet  is  shown  as  a  com- 
mander of  horse  under  Shah  Jahan,  and  his  zamlndari  was  subject 
to  a  fixed  peshkash.     The  territory  comprised  in  the  present  District 
of  Manbhum  was  acquired  by  the  British  with  the  grant  of  the  Dlwani 
of  Bengal,  Bihar,  and  Orissa  in   1765.     Up  to  1805  the  estates  con- 
tained in  it  were  attached,  some  to  Birbhum  and  some  to  Midnapore  ; 
but  in  that  year  they  were  formed  with  a  few  others  into  a  separate 
District  called  the  Jungle  Mahals.     In   1832  one  Ganga  Narayan, 
a  claimant  to  the  Barabhum  estate  in  this  District,  rose  in  rebellion, 
but  was  driven  to  Singhbhum,  where  he  died.     As  a  result  of  these 
disturbances,  a  change  of  administration  was  determined  upon,  and 
by  Regulation  XIII  of  1833  the  District  of  the  Jungle  Mahals  was 
broken  up  ;  the  estates  of  Senpahari,  Shergarh,  and  Bishnupur  were 
transferred  to  Burdwan,  while  the  remainder,  with  the  estate  of  Dhal- 
bhum  detached  at  the  same  time  from  Midnapore,  were  formed  into 
the   present    District  of   Manbhum,   which  was  withdrawn    from   the 
regular  system  of  administration  and  placed  under  an   officer  called 
the  Principal  Assistant  to  the  Agent  to  the  Governor-General  for  the 
South-West    Frontier.      Subsequently,   by  Act  XX  of  1854,   his  title 
was   changed    to    Deputy-Commissioner,   and    that   of  the    Governor- 
General's  Agent  to  Commissioner  of  Chota  Xagpur.    Dhalbhiim  had 
again    been   transferred  to    Singhbhum    eight  years    previous  to  this, 
and  the  District  of  Manbhum  was  reduced   to   its  present  area  by 
further  transfers  of  minor  importance  in  187 1  and  1S79.     When  the 
District  was  first  constituted,  the  civil  station  was  fixed  at  Manbazar, 
but   it  was   transferred  to   Purulia  in    1838.       During  the    Mutiny   of 
1857  the  military  garrison  at   Purulia,  which   consisted  of  64  sepoys 
of  the  Ramgarh  battalion  and   12  sowars,  all  Hindustanis,  plundered 
the   treasury,   released  the   prisoners   in  the  jail,   burnt   the   records, 
and  then  marched  off  towards  Ranch!. 

The  District  contains  several  interesting  archaeological  remains. 
The  most  ancient  of  these  are  ascribed  to  the  Jain  Saraks,  including 
ruins  at  Palma,  Charra,  Pakbira,  where  a  temple,  belonging  probably 
to  the  seventh  century,  contains  a  statue  of  the  Jain  hierarch  ArnanSth, 


'  14 


.WAXfiffU.V 


and  Deoli,  where  there  is  a  group  of  temples,  one  containing  a  fine 
Jain  figure  now  also  known  as  Arnanath.  Instances  of  early  Brah- 
manical  architecture  occur  in  the  villages  of  Para  and  Katras.  A  group 
of  temples  at  TelkupT  on  the  Damodar  belongs  apparently  to  the  early 
part  of  the  Muhammadan  period.  Other  interesting  ruins  exist  at 
Dalmi,  Boram,  and  Panchet. 

The  population  increased  from  820,521  in  1S72  to  1,058,228  in  18S1, 
to  1,193,328  in  1891,  and  to  1,301,364  in  1901.  This  rapid  growth  is 
due  mainly  to  the  healthiness  of  the  climate  and 
the  fecundity  of  the  aboriginal  tribes  who  form  the 
majority  of  the  inhabitants  ;  in  1881  it  was  also  due  in  part  to  better 
enumeration,  while  recently  the  natural  increase  has  been  assisted  by 
the  opening  up  of  the  country  by  railways  and  the  growth  of  the  coal 
industry.  Blindness  and  leprosy  are  exceptionally  common. 
The  principal  statistics  of  the  Census  of  1901  are  shown  below  : — 


Population. 


Subdivision. 

V 
I* 
rt 

a 

V 

t- 

< 

Number  of 

Population. 

Population  per 

square  mile 

0  c  c  o 

0 

0  -Ji-i 

a 

Villages. 

Percentag 
variation 
populatic 

between  I 
and  iqo 

Number 
persons  ab 
read  am 
write. 

Pnrulia 

Gobindpur  . 

District  total 

3-344 
803 

3 

4,273 
1,248 

1,024,242 
277,122 

306 

345 

+    5.4     I  42,323 
+  25-1        10.104 

4>i47 

3 

5.52 1 

I;30I,364 

314 

+    9.1 

52,427 

The  three  towns  are  Purulia,  the  head-quarters,  Jhalida,  and 
Raghunathpur.  The  density  is  greatest  in  the  alluvial  tract  along 
the  banks  of  the  Damodar ;  in  the  broken  country  in  the  north-west 
and  south  the  inhabitants  are  fewer,  except  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  Jherria  coal-field,  where  the  .mines  attract  large  numbers  of 
coolies.  The  Jherria  and  Topchanchi  thanas  in  the  north-west,  which 
contain  the  greater  number  of  the  collieries,  grew  by  75  and  30  per 
cent,  respectively  during  the  decade  ending  1901,  accounting  between 
them  for  over  45  per  cent,  of  the  total  increase.  A  large  number  of 
immigrants,  chiefly  from  Hazaribagh,  Bihar,  and  the  United  Provinces, 
come  to  work  in  the  mines ;  but  the  emigrants,  more  than  half  of 
whom  were  enumerated  in  Assam,  exceed  the  immigrants  by  over 
74,000.  The  vernacular  of  the  District  is  the  western  dialect  of 
Bengali  known  as  Rarhi  boli.  Along  the  western  border  this  merges 
into  Hindi,  the  dialect  spoken  being  locally  known  as  Karmali  or 
Khotta,  or  even  Khotta  Bangala.  SantalT  is  spoken  by  182,000  persons. 
Hindus  number  1,132,619,  or  87  per  cent,  of  the  total;  Animists, 
103,011,  or  7-9  per  cent. ;  and  Muhammadans,  62,799,  or  4'°*  Per  cent. 

The  aboriginal  element  is  strongly  represented,  the  most  numerous 
tribes  being  the  Santals  (195,000,  of  whom  96,000  were  returned  as 


AGRICULTURE 


1 1 1 


Hindus,  and  99,000  as  Animists),  Bhumijs  (109,000),  and  K< 
(22,000).  Many  of  the  lower  Hindu  castes  consist  to  a  great  extent  of 
aboriginal  elements;  such  are  the  Bauris  (99,000),  Bhuiyas  (37,000), 
Raj  wars  (32,000),  and  Doms  (19,000),  and  probably  also  the  Kurmis 
(241,000),  the  most  numerous  caste  in  the  District.  Agriculture  sup- 
ports 67  per  cent,  of  the  population,  industries  11-7  per  cent.,  and  the 
professions  1-3  per  cent. 

Christians  number  2,910,  of  whom  2,599  are  natives.  The  German 
Evangelistic  Lutheran  Mission,  which  began  work  in  1864,  maintains 
schools  and  also  works  among  the  lepers ;  while  a  mission  of  the  Free 
Church  of  Scotland  in  the  Gobindpur  subdivision  has  a  community 
of  700. 

The  surface  consists  of  a  succession  of  rolling  uplands  with  inter- 
vening hollows,  along  which  the  drainage  runs  off  to  join  the  larger 
streams.  The  soil  is  for  the  most  part  composed  of 
hard,  dry,  ferruginous  gravel,  which  has  been  furrowed 
into  countless  small  channels  by  the  discharge  of  surface  drainage  ;  but 
many  of  the  lower  levels  are  filled  with  good  alluvial  soil.  The  lower 
slopes  of  these  uplands,  and  the  swampy  ground  between,  supply  the 
only  land  on  which  a  wet  rice  crop  can  be  grown  without  elaborate 
levelling  and  embanking.  The  hill-sides,  when  terraced  for  rice  cul- 
tivation, present  the  appearance  of  a  series  of  steps  varying  from  1  to  5 
feet  in  height.  In  some  cases  the  beds  of  streams  are  banked  up  at 
intervals  and  made  into  long  narrow  rice  fields. 

The  chief  agricultural  statistics  for  1903-4  are  shown  below,  areas 
being  in  square  miles  : — 


Agriculture. 


Subdivision. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Cultivable 
waste. 

Forest. 

Purulia 
Gobindpur 

Total 

3-344 
803 

1,48a 

47° 

161 

51 

I  I 
4 

4.-'47 

1.955 

212                       15 

It  is  estimated  that  10  per  cent,  of  the  cultivated  area  is  twice 
cropped.  The  most  important  staple  is  rice,  which  covers  an  area 
of  1,428  square  miles.  Two  principal  crops  are  grown  :  the  nuan  or 
aus,  which  is  sown  broadcast  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  first  good 
fall  of  rain  and  reaped  at  the  end  of  September  ;  and  the  haimantik  or 
dman,  which  is  sown  in  a  nursery  about  the  end  of  Ma}-  and  afterwards 
transplanted  and  finally  reaped  from  November  to  January.  A  third 
but  less  important  crop,  the  summer  rice  or  gorddhaiK  is  sown  broad- 
cast in  May  on  table-lands  and  tops  of  ridges,  and  is  reaped  in  August. 
The  first  two  crops  are  grown  only  on  lands  where  there  is  a  good 
supply    of    water.       Other     important    cereals    are    maize    grown    mi 


n6  MANBHUM 

172  square  miles,  marud,  bdjra,  wheat,  and  barley.  Green  crops  and 
pulses — including  gram,  mung,  kalai,  rahar,  peas,  kkesari,  beans,  kurthi, 
and  masuri — are  cultivated  on  245  square  miles.  Among  oilseeds  rape 
and  mustard  are  grown  on  52  square  miles,  and  ///on  about  t6  square 
miles.  Some  sugar-cane,  cotton,  and  tobacco  are  also  grown.  Rota- 
tion of  crops  is  practised  to  a  very  limited  extent.  Manure  is  used  for 
all  crops  to  which  the  cultivator  can  afford  to  apply  it.  It  usually  con- 
sists of  cow-dung,  ashes,  decayed  leaves  and  grass,  and  black  mud 
mixed  with  decayed  vegetable  matter  gathered  from  the  bottoms  and 
sides  of  stagnant  pools  and  tanks. 

There  is  an  ever-increasing  demand  for  land;  and,  in  spite  of  the 
unusual  amount  of  labour  required  to  bring  fresh  fields  under  culti- 
vation, reclamation  is  steadily  proceeding  under  the  tenures  known  as 
naydbadi  and  jalsasan.  The  proportion  of  uncultivated  waste  is  still 
high,  but  it  is  estimated  that  during  the  decade  ending  1901-2 
there  was  an  increase  of  60  per  cent,  in  the  area  under  crops.  Little 
advantage  is  taken  of  the  provisions  of  the  Land  Improvement  and 
Agriculturists'  Loans  Acts,  but  during  the  lean  years  1896-8  about 
Rs.  86,000  was  advanced  under  the  provisions  of  these  Acts. 

The  local  cattle  are  small,  but  a  larger  variety  is  sometimes  obtained 
by  cross-breeding  with  large  Hazaribagh  bulls.  Regular  pasture- 
grounds  are  rare  ;  but  sufficient  rice  straw  is  kept  in  stock  by  the 
ryots  for  fodder  during  the  hot  months,  and  after  the  break  of  the 
rains  the  extensive  waste  lands  of  the  District  afford  ample  pasturage. 
Fairs  are  held  annually  at  Chakultor,  south  of  Purulia,  in  September 
for  a  month,  and  at  Anara  on  the  Purulia-Barakar  road  for  about  twenty 
days  in  April. 

The  surface  drainage  is  rapid  and  the  soil  dries  up  quickly  ;  irrigation 
of  some  kind  is  thus  essential  for  most  crops.  There  are  no  canals  or 
other  artificial  water-courses,  but  there  is  a  very  large  number  of  tanks 
and  dhars.  The  latter  are  reservoirs,  often  of  considerable  size,  con- 
structed by  running  a  dam  across  a  ravine  or  dip,  thereby  holding 
up  the  natural  surface  drainage.  The  fields  below  the  dam  are  kept 
continually  moist  by  the  percolation  of  the  water. 

There  are  two  small  '  protected '  forests,  but  no  revenue  is  derived 
from  them.  The  predominant  tree  is  sal  (Shorea  robustd).  The 
principal  minor  jungle  products  are  lac,  catechu,  sabai  grass,  and  tasar 
silk  cocoons.  Lac  rearing  forms  the  occupation  of  a  large  section 
of  the  population.  The  best  variety  is  produced  on  hi  sum  trees 
(Sch/eichera  trijuga),  and  inferior  qualities  on  ber  (Zizyphus  Jujuba) 
and  palds  (fiufea  frondosa).  The  chief  edible  jungle  products  are 
the  flowers  of  the  mahud  (Bass/a  latifolid)  and  the  fruits  of  the  ber 
and  singhara  (Trapa  bispinosa). 

The  most  important  mineral  in  Manbhum  is  coal,  which  is  mined 


MINERALS  ti; 


on  a  large  scale  in  the  Gobindpur  subdivision.  The  Therria  coal-field 
occupies  an  area  of  about  180  square  miles,  and  a  portion  of  the 
Ranlganj-Barakar  field  also  extends  into  the  District. 
Coal  had  long  been  known  to  exist  in  Manbhum,  Mlnerals. 
but  as  recently  as  1891  only  two  mines  were  being  worked,  with  an 
output  of  78,000  tons.  The  Jherria  field  was  tapped  by  the  railway 
in  1894;  and  the  output  of  coal  from  the  collieries  of  the  District 
rose  from  129,000  tons  in  that  year  to  1,281,000  tons  in  1895,  nearly 
the  whole  of  the  increase  coming  from  the  Jherria  field.  After  a  short 
period  of  depression  in  the  two  following  years  the  industry  has  grown 
steadily,  and  in  1903  as  many  as  141  collieries  were  at  work  :  namely, 
115  in  the  Jherria  field  and  26  in  the  Raniganj  field,  with  outputs 
of  2,746,000  tons  and  246,000  tons,  and  giving  employment  to  28,000 
and  3,000  persons  respectively.  The  most  important  concerns  are 
those  of  the  Barakar  Coal  Company,  Jardine  Skinner  &  Co.,  the 
Standard  Coal  Company,  Agabeg  Brothers,  MacLeod  &  Co.,  Turner 
Morrison  &  Co.,  the  Raniganj  Coal  Association,  the  Bengal  Coal 
Company,  and  the  Bengal-Nagpur  Coal  Company. 

Steam-power  is  generally  used  in  the  Raniganj  field,  but  only  in 
twenty-four  collieries  in  the  Jherria  field,  where  good  coal  is  often 
found  very  near  the  surface  and  the  roof  in  many  instances  is  of  hard 
stone,  and  the  system  of  working  by  means  of  inclines  is  practicable. 
Shafts  are  never  of  the  depths  common  in  most  collieries  in  England, 
and  the  mines  are  consequently  free  from  the  danger  arising  from  gas  ; 
the  deepest  shaft  in  the  Jherria  field  is  one  of  320  feet  belonging  to 
the  Bhaga  colliery. 

Many  of  the  labourers  employed  are  local  residents,  but  a  large 
number  also  come  from  Hazaribagh  ;  they  generally  belong  to  the 
aboriginal  tribes  or  low  Hindu  castes.  The  relations  between  capital 
and  labour  appear  to  be  on  the  whole  satisfactory,  and  as  the  demand 
for  labour  is  very  great,  a  colliery  manager  has  every  inducement  to 
treat  his  miners  well  :  they  are  generally  paid  by  piece-work  at  rates 
varying  from  12  annas  to  Rs.  1-4  per  100  cubic  feet  of  coal  raised,  the 
wages  earned  usually  amounting  to  7  or  8  annas  a  day. 

About  three-fourths  of  the  coal  produced  is  purchased  by  large 
European  firms  who  carry  it  by  rail  to  Calcutta.  A  small  quantity 
is  used  by  mills  and  steamships  there  ;  but  by  far  the  greater  portion 
is  shipped  to  Bombay,  Karachi,  Madras,  Penang,  Singapore,  and 
other  ports.  About  one-fourth  of  the  output  is  consumed  by  different 
railways  and  by  mills  in  the  Upper  Provinces. 

A  clay  ironstone,  constituting  a  large  proportion   of  the  ironstone 
shales,  is  especially  rich  and  plentiful  in  the  Raniganj  coal-field,  where 
it  is  sometimes  associated  with  carbonaceous  matter  forming  a  black 
band  iron  ore.      Among  the  gneissose  and  schistose  rocks  there  arc 


n8  MlNBHUM 

magnetic  and  titaniferous  iron  ores.  Red  hematite  occurs  in  the 
siliceous  fault  breccias  of  the  same  areas,  and  lateritic  iron  ores  also 
exist.  The  rocks  on  the  southern  boundary  of  the  District  constitute 
part  of  the  northern  edge  of  the  auriferous  tract  of  Chota  Nagpur. 
They  are  traversed  by  innumerable  gold-bearing  quartz  veins,  from 
which  has  been  derived  the  alluvial  gold  obtained  in  all  the  rivers  that 
drain  the  schist  area.  The  Patkum  prospecting  syndicate  attempted 
to  work  the  gold  on  an  extensive  scale,  but  failed,  and  the  careful 
investigation  to  which  the  area  has  been  subjected  of  late  years  leaves 
very  little  hope  of  extracting  the  gold  at  a  profit.  A  vein  of  argenti- 
ferous galena  occurs  about  a  mile  east  of  Dhadka,  in  the  south-east 
of  the  District.  Several  small  soapstone  quarries  are  worked,  and 
rubble,  quartz,  kankar,  sandstone,  trap,  and  basalt  are  also  quarried. 

Shellac  is  largely  manufactured,  especially  in  the  Jhalida  and  Bala- 

rampur  thanas,  and  54  factories  employing  1,400  hands  were  at  work 

in  1903-4.     The  manufacture  of  tasar  silk  is  carried 

lraaeand        on    g^jgfjy   jn    ^g    Ra^hunathpur   thana,    and    was 
communications.  -  ?  '  . 

formerly  an  important   industry  ;  but  in   1903-4  the 

estimated  out-turn  was  only  16,000  yards.     Coarse  cotton  cloths  are 

woven  all  over  the   District,  and  are  preferred  by  the  lower  classes 

to    the  imported    machine-made  article  on  account  of  their  superior 

durability.     Brass  and  bell-metal  utensils  and  rough  brass  ornaments 

are   also    manufactured   in   several  places.      Soapstone  found  in  the 

Chandil   thana  is   made  into  cups,  images,  &c,  but  the  industry  is 

small.     An  inferior  quality  of  rope  is  made  from  sabai  grass,  which 

grows  extensively  in  the  Patkum,   Baghmundi,  Barabhiim,  and  Hesla 

parganas.     Cutlery  and  guns  are  made  at  Jhalida. 

The  chief  exports  are  coal  and  coke ;  and  the  chief  imports  are  salt, 
rice,  gram,  pulses,  kerosene  oil,  cotton  twist  and  cotton  piece-goods, 
molasses,  sugar,  and  tobacco.  Most  of  the  imports  come  from  Calcutta 
and  Burdwan,  with  the  exception  of  gram,  pulses,  tobacco,  and  molasses, 
which  come  chiefly  from  Bihar.  The  coal  exported  by  rail  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  over  2,000,000  tons,  of  which  nearly  three-quarters  was 
sent  to  Calcutta  and  Howrah.  The  principal  trade  centres  are  Purulia, 
Jhalida,  Chas,  Raghunathpur,  Chandil,  Chirkunda,  Gobindpur,  Man- 
bazar,  Ichagarh,  Barabazar,  Dubra,  and  Nirsa.  Most  of  the  external 
trade  is  carried  on  by  rail ;  bullock-carts  are  extensively  used  for  local 
traffic.  The  greater  part  of  the  trade  is  carried  on  by  Marwaris  and 
Gandhabaniks. 

The  Bengal-Nagpur  Railway  traverses  the  head-quarters  subdivision 
from  north-east  to  south-west.  The  Jherria  extension  of  the  East 
Indian  Railway  with  its  numerous  sidings  connects  the  coal-fields  of 
the  Gobindpur  subdivision  with  Asansol  and  Calcutta,  and  has  been 
carried  on  to  Bankura  and  Midnapore,  intersecting  the  Bengal-Nagpur 


ADMINISTRA  TION  1 1 9 

Railway  at  Adra  station.  Another  line  recently  constructed  links  up 
Jherria  with  Gaya.  The  District  contains  818  miles  of  road,  of 
Avhich  682  miles  are  under  the  control  of  the  District  board  and  the 
remainder  are  Provincial,  59  miles  being  maintained  by  the  District 
board  and  77  being  in  charge  of  the  Public  Works  department.  The 
Provincial  roads,  of  which  119  miles  are  metalled,  include  41  miles  of 
the  grand  trunk  road  in  the  Gobindpur  subdivision,  42  miles  of  the 
Purulia-Barakar  road,  and  36  miles  of  the  Purulia-Ranchl  road.  Of 
the  District  board  roads  363  miles  are  metalled,  the  principal  being 
those  from  Purulia  to  Chaibasa,  Manbazar,  and  Bankura,  and  from 
Raghunathpur  to  Raniganj.  The  District  board  maintains  six  ferries 
on  the  more  important  roads. 

The  undulating  character  of  the  surface  and  the  consequent  rapid 
drainage  render  Manbhum  peculiarly  liable  to  drought,  and  it  suffered 
severely  during  the  general  famines  of  1866,  1874, 
and  1897.  The  distress  in  1866  was  felt  over 
almost  the  whole  District.  Rice  rose  to  the  excessively  high  price 
of  3!  seers  to  the  rupee  in  the  month  of  August,  and  in  the  affected 
area  as  many  as  33,296  persons,  or  6-55  per  cent,  of  the  population, 
died  from  starvation  and  its  indirect  effects.  In  1874  the  north  and 
north-east  of  the  District  suffered  most.  In  addition  to  a  cash  expen- 
diture of  2-7  lakhs,  more  than  8,000  tons  of  grain  was  distributed 
by  Government,  and  thus  the  price  of  rice  never  exceeded  the  rate 
of  12  seers  to  the  rupee.  The  famine  of  1897  was  felt  over  the  greater 
part  of  the  District,  but  was  most  intense  in  the  Gobindpur  subdivision. 
The  price  of  grain  was  highest  in  July,  when  rice  sold  at  7  seers  to  the 
rupee.  The  total  expenditure  on  relief  works  amounted  to  2-8  lakhs, 
and  Rs.  42,000  was  spent  in  advances  for  village  works.  The  aggregate 
number  of  persons  relieved  on  works,  expressed  in  terms  of  one  day, 
was  1,311,569,  and  1,456,105  persons  received  gratuitous  relief. 

For  administrative   purposes   the  District  is  divided  into  two  sub- 
divisions, with    head-quarters  at  Purulia  and  Gobindpur.      Subor- 
dinate to  the  Deputy-Commissioner  at  Purulia  is  a  , 
staff  of  five  Deputy-Magistrate-Collectors ;    the  sub- 
divisional  officer  of  Gobindpur  is  assisted  by  a  Sub-Deputy-Collector. 

The  chief  civil  court  is  that  of  the  Judicial  Commissioner  of  Chota 
Nagpur.  For  the  disposal  of  civil  work  a  Subordinate  Judge  and  two 
Munsifs  sit  at  Purulia,  and  a  Munsif  each  at  Raghunathpur  and 
Gobindpur.  The  Munsif  of  Raghunathpur  also  tries  rent  suits  under 
Act  X  of  1859,  and  exercises  the  powers  of  a  third-class  magistrate. 
Deputy-Collectors  try  rent  suits  under  Act  X  of  1859  at  Purulia  and 
Gobindpur.  The  Deputy-Commissioner  exercises  special  powers  under 
section  34  of  the  Criminal  Procedure  Code.  As  Additional  Sessions 
Judge  of    Chota    Nagpur,   the   Sessions  Judge   of   Bankura    tries   all 


i2o  MANBHUM 

sessions  cases  and  criminal  appeals  arising  within  Manbhum  and 
Singhbhum  ;  for  the  disposal  of  sessions  cases  he  sits  at  Purulia,  and 
for  the  hearing  of  appeals  sometimes  at  Purulia  and  sometimes  at 
Bankura.  Of  late  years  Manbhum  has  been  notorious  for  the  number 
of  dacoits  it  shelters  ;  in  1905  more  dacoities  were  committed  than  in 
any  other  Bengal  District.  These  crimes  are  confined  mainly  to  the 
coal-fields,  and  are  the  work  of  up-country  criminals  who  congregate 
there. 

At  the  time  of  the  Permanent  Settlement  the  smaller  chiefs  in 
Manbhum  were  considered  to  be  independent  landholders  and  were 
admitted  to  separate  settlements.  Succession  to  land  follows  the  cus- 
tom of  primogeniture ;  there  has  thus  been  no  subdivision  of  property, 
and  in  1903-4  there  were  in  all  only  29  revenue-paying  estates  with 
a  current  demand  of  Rs.  84,000  ;  of  these  all  but  two  are  permanently 
settled,  the  largest  being  Panchet  with  a  demand  of  Rs.  58,000.  The 
Permanent  Settlement  was  extended  to  the  District  at  a  time  when 
it  was  unprepared  for  such  a  measure,  and  the  assessment  is  therefore 
disproportionately  light,  amounting  to  only  R.  0-1-1  per  cultivated 
acre.  Special  tenures  are  the  ghdtwali  and  other  service  tenures, 
maintenance  grants  to  the  younger  members  of  a  zaminddr's  family, 
and  mdnki  and  murdri  tenures,  a  survival  of  the  aboriginal  village 
system  (see  Kolhax).  The  ghdtwdis  hold  a  certain  quantity  of  land 
on  a  quit-rent,  as  a  remuneration  for  police  duties  which  they  are 
required  to  perform  on  behalf  of  Government.  Other  service  tenures 
are  those  of  the  jdgirddrs  in  Panchet,  who  retain  one-third  or  more  of 
the  produce  of  the  villages  included  in  their  holdings ;  goraiti  tenures, 
or  grants  made  to  the  gorait  or  village  messenger ;  and  laydli  grants 
made  to  layas  or  priests  of  the  aboriginal  deities.  Petty  service,  or 
ihdkrdn,  grants  with  no  specific  name  are  often  made  to  barbers, 
potters,  washermen,  smiths,  and  others  performing  menial  services  for 
their  landlords  :  as  a  rule,  they  are  given  free  of  rent. 

Maintenance  tenures  granted  for  the  support  of  the  younger  members 
of  a  Rajas  or  zam'indar's  family  are  of  two  kinds,  khorposh  and  hiki- 
mdli.  The  latter,  which  are  confined  to  the  Barabhiim  and  Manbhum 
parganas,  are  grants  of  land  assigned  for  the  maintenance  of  the  hikim 
or  second  brother  and  the  kunwdr  or  third  brother  of  the  zamlnddr  for 
the  time  being.  On  the  death  of  the  zami/iddr,  the  brothers  of  his 
successor  take  up  the  lands  attached  to  the  office  of  hikim  or  kunzudr, 
and  perform  the  services  in  consideration  of  which  those  lands  are 
held.  A  hikimali  tenure  is  thus  dependent  on  the  life  of  the  zamlnddr 
and  not  on  that  of  the  tenure-holder.  But  each  zamlnddr,  when  he 
succeeds  to  the  estate,  is  bound  to  make  suitable  provision  in  the 
form  of  ordinary  khorposh  grants  for  the  hikims  who  have  vacated  the 
hikimali  grants    derived    from   their    relationship    to   his    predecessor. 


A  DMINISTRA  TIOX  1 2 1 

Such  maintenance  grants  are  held  during  the  life  of  the  grantees,  and 
are  liable  to  lapse  at  their  death  to  the  parent  estate.  The  incidence 
of  r.ental  for  the  whole  District  is  estimated  at  Rs.  1-12-3  per  culti- 
vated acre  :  but  owing  to  the  fact  that  land  is  seldom  assessed  on 
measurement,  any  statement  of  rates  is  only  an  approximation.  In 
Barabhum  the  generally  accepted  rates  of  rent  payable  by  the  cultivator 
to  his  landlord  are  Rs.  4-12-9  per  acre  of  bahdl  or  low-lying  rice-land  ; 
Rs.  3-9-7  per  acre  of  kanali  or  moderately  high  rice-land ;  Rs.  2-6-5 
per  acre  of  baid  or  high  land  ;  Rs.  1-3-2  per  acre  of  gord  or  the  worst 
class  of  land.  A  substantial  cultivating  ryot  pays  about  Rs.  2-2  for 
his  bastu  or  homestead  land,  a  non-cultivating  ryot  Rs.  1-1,  and 
a  ryot  of  the  poorer  class  about  8^  annas.  Similar  rates  prevail  in 
the  other  parganas  in  the  south  of  the  District,  but  in  Panchet  and 
in  other  estates  in  the  north  they  are  from  50  to  100  per  cent,  higher. 

The  following  table  shows  the  collections  of  land  revenue  and  total 
revenue  (principal  heads  only),  in  thousands  of  rupees  :— 


1880-1. 

1S90-1.        1900-1.        190^-4. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

83               82              •  So 
3>°7            4»25            6,97 

84 
8,91 

Outside  the  municipalities  of  Purulia,  Jhalida,  and  Raghunath- 
pur,  local  affairs  are  managed  by  the  District  board,  with  a  subordinate 
local  board  at  Gobindpur.  In  1903-4  its  income  was  Rs.  1,42,000, 
half  of  which  was  derived  from  rates ;  and  the  expenditure  was 
Rs.  1,19,000,  including  Rs.  74,000  spent  on  public  works  and 
Rs.  32,000  on  education. 

The  District  contains  24  police  stations  or  thdiias  and  3  outposts. 
In  1903  the  force  subordinate  to  the  District  Superintendent  consisted 
of  3  inspectors,  36  sub-inspectors,  24  head  constables,  and  297  con- 
stables. In  addition,  there  was  a  rural  police  force  of  4,360  chaukiddrs, 
of  whom  1,720  held  service  tenures,  and  1,972  gkafced/s  of  different 
grades.  The  District  jail  at  Purulia  has  accommodation  for  276 
prisoners,  and  a  subsidiary  jail  at  Gobindpur  for  32. 

The  District  is  very  backward  in  respect  of  education,  and  in  1901 
only  4-0  per  cent,  of  the  population  (7-7  males  and  0-3  females)  could 
read  and  write.  The  number  of  pupils  under  instruction  increased 
from  10,563  in  1883  to  15,578  in  1892-3  and  to  20,535  in  1900-1. 
In  1903-4,  24,751  boys  and  2,058  girls  were  at  school,  being  respec- 
tively 25-2  and  2-i  per  cent,  of  the  children  of  school-going  age.  The 
number  of  educational  institutions,  public  and  private,  in  that  year  was 
799,  including  26  secondary,  761  primary,  and  12  special  schools. 
The  expenditure  on  education  was  Rs.  1,28,000,  of  which  Rs.  14,000 
was  met  from  Provincial  funds,  Rs.  32,000  from  District  funds,  Rs.  600 


122  MANBHUM 

from  municipal  funds,  and  Rs.  51,000  from  fees.  The  chief  educational 
institution  is  the  Purulia  Government  school. 

In  1903  the  District  contained  8  dispensaries,  of  which  5  had 
accommodation  for  64  in-patients.  The  cases  of  41,000  out-patients 
and  641  in-patients  were  treated  during  the  year,  and  1,623  operations 
were  performed.  The  expenditure  was  Rs.  12,600,  of  which  Rs.  800 
was  met  from  Government  contributions,  Rs.  2,000  from  local  and 
Rs.  6,100  from  municipal  funds,  and  Rs.  5,300  from  subscriptions. 
A  leper  asylum  2  miles  south-west  of  Purulia  town  is  managed  by 
the  German  Evangelical  Lutheran  Mission.  Its  grounds  cover  about 
400  acres  and  it  has  509  inmates,  including  83  children.  Untainted 
children  of  leprous  parents  are  received  in  a  special  home  at  some 
distance  from  the  asylum. 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  in  municipal  areas.  In  1903-4  the 
number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  was  39,000,  or  30-7  per 
1,000  of  the  population. 

[Sir  W.  W.  Hunter,  Statistical  Account  of  Bengal,  vol.  xvii  (1877); 
F.  B.  Bradley-Birt,  Chola  Nagpur  (1903).] 

Manchar. — Village  in  the  Khed  taluka  of  Poona  District,  Bombay, 
situated  in  190  N.  and  730  57'  E.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ghod, 
about  12  miles  north  of  Khed  town.  Population  (1901),  5,300.  The 
place  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  belonged  to  Holkar  till  1868-9,  when 
it  became  British  by  exchange.  To  the  west,  beyond  a  watercourse, 
is  a  fine  Hemadpanti  reservoir  about  25  yards  square,  with  two  flights 
of  steps  leading  to  the  water.  Except  the  west  wall,  which  has  a  small 
niche  with  carved  sideposts  and  sculptured  foliage,  the  walls  of  the 
reservoir  are  plain.  Within  the  niche  is  a  much-worn  inscription. 
Manchar  appears  to  have  been  a  Musalman  town  of  some  importance, 
and  has  a  small  mosque  at  its  south-west  entrance.  The  mosque  is 
entered  by  a  fine  single  arch,  surmounted  by  a  projecting  and  bracketed 
cornice  with  a  small  minaret  at  each  of  the  four  corners.  The  village 
contains  a  school  with  176  boys  and  10  girls. 

Manchhar. — Lake  in  the  Sehwan  taluka  of  Larkana  District,  Sind, 
Bombay,  lying  between  260  22"  and  26°  28'  N.  and  670  37'  and 
670  47'  E.  It  is  formed  by  the  expansion  of  the  Western  Nara  and  the 
Aral  streams,  and  is  fed  by  hill-torrents.  The  first  flows  into  it  from 
the  north,  and  the  latter  from  the  Indus  westward  at  a  distance  of 
about  1 2  miles ;  but  the  supply  from  the  Nara  is  trifling  in  quantity 
when  compared  with  that  from  the  Aral.  It  is,  however,  this  latter 
stream  which  affords  a  means  of  discharge  for  the  redundant  waters 
of  the  lake.  During  the  period  of  inundation  the  Manchhar  may  be 
estimated  at  from  15  to  20  miles  in  length,  with  a  breadth  of  about 
10  miles;  but  when  the  water  is  low,  this  area  is  greatly  contracted, 
and  is  then  probably  not  more  than    10  miles  in  length.     The  space 


MANDALAY  DIVISION  I23 

left  uncovered  by  the  receding  water  is  sown  with  grain,  especially 
wheat,  yielding  magnificent  crops. 

Although  shallow  at  the  sides,  the  lake  has  a  considerable  depth  of 
water  in  the  middle  ;  and  so  great  is  the  quantity  of  fine  fish  that 
hundreds  of  men  and  boats  are  employed.  The  fish  are  taken  chiefly 
by  spearing,  but  also  in  nets.  In  the  season  when  the  lotus  is  in 
blossom  the  lake  presents  a  very  beautiful  appearance,  as  its  surface, 
farther  than  the  eye  can  reach,  is  covered  with  an  unbroken  succession 
of  flowers  and  leaves. 

The  fisheries  of  the  lake,  which  are  let  out  on  contract,  yielded  an 
average  annual  revenue  of  Rs.  5,091  during  the  five  years  ending 
1905-6.  The  principal  fish  are:  the  dambhro  (or  chelri),  a  reddish- 
coloured  fish  often  attaining  an  enormous  size,  and  ranking,  according 
to  native  taste,  next  to  the  palla  in  excellence  ;  the  mordko ;  the  gajidan, 
a  long,  sharp,  and  very  bony  fish,  of  a  silver  colour,  in  length  from  3  to 
5  feet ;  the  shakar,  the  '  murrel '  of  the  Deccan  ;  Xhejerkho  or  fresh-water 
shark,  the  largest  fish  in  Sind  ;  goj  and  lor,  or  eels ;  khaggo,  or  catfish ; 
the  fiopri,  the  dalu,  the  theli ;  ga/igat,  or  prawns  ;  the  danur,  and  the 
singdri. 

Manda. — Village  in  the  Naogaon  subdivision  of  Rajshahi  District, 
Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  situated  in  240  46'  N.  and  88°  39'  E.,  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Atrai  river.  Population  (1901),  356.  It  is  the 
site  of  an  annual  fair  held  in  March  or  April  on  the  occasion  of  the 
Hindu  festival,  Sri  Ram  NabamI,  in  honour  of  Ram  (the  seventh 
incarnation  of  Vishnu).  The  fair  is  attended  by  about  25,000  people 
from  all  parts  of  the  District. 

Mandal. — Town  in  the  Viramgam  taluka  of  Ahmadabad  District, 
Bombay,  situated  in  230  17'  N.  and  710  55'  E.,  15  miles  north-west 
of  Viramgam  station  on  the  Bombay,  Baroda,  and  Central  India 
Railway.  Population  (C901),  5,091.  The  municipality,  established  in 
1889,  had  an  average  income  during  the  decade  ending  1901  of 
Rs.  5,000.  The  income  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  5,230.  The  town  contains 
some  mosques  of  archaeological  interest :  notably,  the  Jama  Masjid, 
the  Saiyid  Masjid,  the  Kazi  Masjid,  and  the  Ganjni  Masjid.  It  also 
contains  a  dispensary,  and  three  boys'  and  one  girls'  school,  attended 
respectively  by  255  and  54  pupils. 

Mandalay  Division. — North-eastern  Division  of  Upper  Burma, 
lying  between  2i°42r  and  270  20'  N.  and  950  6'  and  980  20'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  29,373  square  miles.  It  is  composed  of  five  Districts 
(all  abutting  on  the  Irrawaddy) :  Mandalay  and  the  Ruby  Mines  on 
the  east  of  the  river,  and  Katha,  Bhamo,  and  Myitkyina  astride  of  it. 
On  the  north  it  is  bounded  by  unadministered  territory  ;  on  the  east 
by  China  and  the  Northern  Shan  States ;  on  the  south  by  the  Kyaukse 
District  of  the   Meiktila   Division  ;  and  on   the  west  by  the  Sagaing 

VOL.  XVII.  1 


124 


MAN  DA  LA  V  DIVISION 


Division,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Irrawaddy  and  the  water- 
shed severing  the  basins  of  the  Irrawaddy  and  the  Chindwin.  The 
head-quarters  are  at  Mandalay  City  in  the  extreme  south  of  the 
Division;  but  all  the  District  head-quarters,  with  the  exception  of 
Mogok,  are  readily  accessible  by  rail  and  river.  The  Commissioner 
exercises  a  nominal  control  over  the  Hkamti  Long  (Shan)  States- on 
the  upper  reaches  of  the  Malikha.  The  population  of  the  Division 
was  returned  at  592,625  in  1891  and  777,33s  in  l9°*-  The  earlier 
Census,  however,  excluded  a  large  part  of  Katha  District,  then  forming 
the  Wuntho  State,  and  also  portions  of  Bhamo  and  Myitkyina  Districts. 
The  distribution  of  the  population  in  1901  is  shown  in  the  table 
below  : — 


District. 

Area  in  square 
miles. 

Population, 
1901. 

Land  revenue 
and  thatJmmeda, 

•903-4,  , 
in  thousands 
of  rupees. 



Mandalay 
Bhamo    . 
Myitkyina 
Katha 

Ruby  Mines  (includ- 
ing Mongmit) 

2,117 

4,146 

10,640 
6,994 

5.476 

366,507 
79,515 
67,399 

176,2  23 

87,694 

8,42 
1,31 

93 

5,34 

90* 

Total 

29,373 

777,338 

16,90 

*  Excluding  revenue  of  Mongmit. 

The  Division  contains  seven  towns  —  Mandalay  (population, 
183,816),  Amarapura  (9,103),  Maymyo  (6,223),  Bhamo  (10,734),  and 
Mogok,  Katha,  and  Myitkyina;  and  there  are  5,413  villages. 
Mandalay,  Mogok,  and  Bhamo  are  important  industrial  and  trade 
centres.  Burmans  predominate  largely,  numbering  451,161  in  1901. 
They  form  almost  the  whole  population  of  Mandalay  District,  and  the 
larger  part  of  that  of  Katha,  and  are  well  represented  in  the  Ruby 
Mines  and  Bhamo,  but  are  comparatively  scarce  in  Myitkyina.  The 
Shans  numbered  110,728  in  1901,  distributed  over  all  the  five  Districts, 
but  nowhere  in  the  majority.  In  Mandalay  District  they  are  confined 
to  the  hilly  Maymyo.  township.  The  number  of  Kachins  in  1901  was 
87,790.  They  form  the  greater  part  of  the  population  of  Myitkyina 
District,  are  the  prevalent  race  in  Bhamo,  and  are  common  in  Katha 
and  the  Ruby  Mines.  A  portion  of  the  north-western  area  of  Katha  is 
peopled  by  the  Kadus,  who  numbered  34,521  in  1901.  Danus  to  the 
number  of  6,276  inhabit  the  hills  in  Mandalay  District.  Chinamen 
are  numerous  in  all  the  Districts  excepting  Katha,  and  aggregated 
9,463  at  the  last  Census.  Natives  of  India  are  distributed  all  over 
the  Division,  for  the  most  part  in  or  near  the  towns  and  District 
head-quarters.     They  include  25,391  Musalmans,  21,894  Hindus,  and 


MANDALAY  DISTRICT  125 

2.149  Sikhs.  Of  the  indigenous  races,  the  Bur  mans  and  Shans  profess 
Buddhism,  which  had  634,000  adherents  in  1901,  while  the  Kachins 
for  the  most  part  are  to  be  reckoned  among  the  Animists,  who 
numbered  about  88,000.     Christians  numbered  5,663. 

Mandalay  District  (Burmese,  Mandate). — District  of  the  Mandalay 
Division  of  Upper  Burma,  lying  between  210  42'  and  220  46'  N.  and 
950  54'  and  960  46'  E.,  with  an  area  of  2,117  square  miles.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Ruby  Mines  District ;  on  the  south  by 
the  State  of  Lawksawk  and  by  Kyaukse  and  Sagaing  Districts  ;  on  the 
east  by  the  State  of  HsTpaw  :  and  on  the  west  by  the  Irrawaddy,  which 
divides  it  from  Sagaing  and  Shwebo  Districts. 

The  main  feature  of  the  District  is  the  wide  plain,  about  700  square 
miles  in  extent,  which  occupies  about  one-third  of  the  area,  spreading 
from    the    Irrawaddy  eastwards   to   the   foot    of  the 
Shan  plateau,  and  gradually  increasing  in  width  from  ysica 

north  to  south.  This  wedge-shaped  level  slopes  both 
southward  and  westward,  and  is,  with  the  exception  of  portions  that 
are  irrigated  by  canals  or  tanks,  liable  to  drought  by  reason  of  the 
uncertainty  of  the  rainfall.  The  area  flooded  by  the  rivers  during 
the  rains  is  about  150  square  miles.  To  the  north  and  east  of  the 
plain  are  the  hills  forming  the  western  edge  of  the  Shan  plateau,  which 
run  for  the  most  part  in  broken  parallels  north  and  south.  Those 
in  the  north,  however,  taking  off  from  the  Ruby  Mines  mountain  group, 
end  abruptly  north  of  the  Sagyin  hill,  and  cover  about  one-half  of 
the  northernmost  township.  The  highest  points  in  this  system  are 
from  2,000  to  3,600  feet  above  the  sea.  The  elevated  ground  to  the 
east  takes  in  the  whole  of  the  Maymyo  subdivision.  It  rises  very 
steeply  from  the  plain,  and  develops  into  a  picturesque  plateau,  3,000 
feet  high,  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  deep  steep-sided  gorge.  Con- 
spicuous hills  in  this  plateau  tower  to  a  height  of  4,000  and  4,700  feet. 
From  the  level  plain  in  the  Irrawaddy  valley  rise  isolated  limestone 
hills,  of  which  the  best  known  are  the  Sagyin  hill  (800  feet),  famous 
for  its  alabaster  quarries ;  Mandalay  hill  (954  feet),  at  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  city,  of  which  it  commands  a  noble  view ;  and  the 
Yankin  hill,  due  east  of  the  city,  interesting  for  its  images  of  fish, 
carved  in  a  natural  cave,  which  are  worshipped  in  times  of  scarcity 
of  rain. 

The  main  rivers  are  the  Irrawaddy,  the  Myitnge,  and  the  Madaya. 
The  two  latter  are  tributaries  of  the  former,  which  skirts  the  western 
boundary  of  the  District  throughout  its  entire  length  (75  miles),  and 
is  studded  with  rich  alluvial  islands,  whose  movements  from  one  side 
of  the  channel  to  the  other  give  considerable  trouble  to  the  officials 
coneerned  in  the  administration  of  the  Districts  abutting  on  the  stream. 
The  Myitnge  (or  Doktawaddy),  known  as  the  Nam  Tu  by  the  Shans. 

1  2 


i26  M AND  A  LAY  DISTRICT 

forms  part  of  the  eastern  and  practically  the  whole  of  the  southern 
boundary  of  the  District,  sweeping  round  in  a  narrow  canon  from  south 
to  north-west,  and  emerging  from  the  hills  at  the  foot  of  a  striking 
bluff,  about  2,000  feet  high,  locally  known  as  Kywetnapa,  or  '  rat's 
snout.'  It  is  navigable  only  to  the  foot  of  the  hills,  its  course  above 
being  full  of  rapids  and  falls.  The  Madaya  river,  known  by  the  Shans 
as  the  Nam  Pi,  and  locally  as  the  Chaungmagyi,  rises  in  the  Shan 
States  and  flows  at  first  southwards,  forming  part  of  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  District,  after  which  it  turns  westwards,  and  joins  the 
Irrawaddy  about  25  miles  above  Mandalay.  Close  to  its  debouchure 
from  the  hills  are  the  head-works  of  the  new  Mandalay  Canal,  which 
distributes  its  waters  over  the  eastern  part  of  the  plain  almost  to  the 
Myitnge  river. 

Of  lakes  proper  there  is  none,  though  several  large  areas  are  inun- 
dated to  a  considerable  depth  in  the  rains,  the  chief  being  the 
Aungbinle  lake  east  of  Mandalay,  the  Nanda  lake  21  miles  north- 
north-east  of  the  city,  the  Shwepyi  in  the  north  of  the  District,  and 
the  Taungthaman  close  to  Amarapura.  The  Mandalay  Canal  is, 
however,  fast  converting  the  first  two  into  paddy-fields.  The  last  two 
are  lagoons  fed  from  the  Irrawaddy,  which  are  dammed  for  fishing 
and  cultivation  when  the  river  falls. 

The  plain  is  to  a  great  extent  covered  with  alluvial  deposit  from 
the  Irrawaddy.  The  isolated  hills  are  of  crystalline  limestone,  belong- 
ing to  the  period  of  Mogok  gneiss.  In  the  Sagyin  Hills  rubies  are 
found  in  the  debris  resulting  from  the  denudation  of  the  limestone. 
The  hilly  tract,  the  edge  of  the  Shan  plateau,  is  composed  of  palaeozoic 
rocks,  probably  faulted  down  against  the  crystalline  limestone.  A 
fringe  of  Devonian  limestone  extends  along  the  outer  edge  of  the 
plateau,  followed  by  a  zone  of  Silurian  sandstone,  shales,  and  lime- 
stones, which  occupy  most  of  the  broken  country  below  its  crest.  The 
Silurians  rest  unconformably  upon  a  series  of  quartzites  and  slaty 
shales  which  are  probably  of  Cambrian  age.  Near  Zibingyi  (on  the 
Lashio  railway),  a  narrow  band  of  black  shaly  limestone  is  found  at 
the  base  of  the  Devonian  limestone,  containing  graptolites  and  fossils 
of  Upper  Silurian  age.  The  surface  of  the  plateau  extending  from 
Zibingyi  to  beyond  Maymyo  is  covered  with  Devonian  limestones,  the 
denudation  of  which  has  exposed  the  Silurian  rocks  beneath  in  the 
hilly  country  north  of  Maymyo.  The  shales  of  the  Lower  Silurian 
formation  are  highly  fossiliferous,  containing  large  numbers  of  detached 
plates  of  cystideans  and  fragments  of  crinoid  stems. 

The  forest  produce  is  described  below.  The  Maymyo  plateau  is 
extraordinarily  productive  of  flora  both  indigenous  and  foreign.  Many 
kinds  of  orchids  and  lilies  grow  wild ;  English  blooms  of  every 
description  flourish;    and  the padauk  (Pterocai-pus  i/idicus),  the  ingyin 


HISTORY  127 

(Pentacme  siameiisis),  the  saga-wa  and  saga  sein  (Mkhelia  C/iaiiipaia), 
the  gangaw  {Mesita  firrea),  and  the  sabe  arc  all  met  with. 

The  fauna  does  not  greatly  differ  from  that  of  Upper  Burma 
generally.  The  elephant,  the  bison,  and  the  tsine  or  hsaing  {Bos 
sondaicus)  are  met  with  in  the  hilly  tracts  in  the  north  and  east.  The 
barking-deer  (gyi)  is  ubiquitous,  and  the  sambar  and  hog  deer  (daye) 
are  fairly  common.  The  serow  (Burmese,  tawseik  or  '  wild  goat ')  is 
occasionally  met  with  in  the  hills.  Tigers  and  leopards  are  common 
both  in  the  hills  and  on  the  plain.  Wild  hog  cause  a  good  deal  of 
destruction  to  the  crops  at  the  foot  of  the  slopes,  and  two  species 
of  black  bear  (Malay  and  Himalayan)  frequent  the  hills  of  the  Maymyo 
subdivision. 

The  climate  is  dry  and  healthy.  From  April  to  August  strong  winds 
prevail.  In  the  plains  the  thermometer  rises  frequently  in  the  hot 
season  to  1050  or  1070  in  the  shade,  and  the  minimum,  in  December, 
is  about  550.  Occasionally  temperatures  of  1120  have  been  recorded 
in  April.  In  the  hills  the  range  is  from  320  to  900.  The  Maymyo 
plateau  is,  except  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  rains,  very  healthy, 
and  is  at  all  seasons  temperate.  The  average  minimum  at  Maymyo 
in  December  is  380  and  the  maximum  in  May  is  86°,  though  six 
degrees  of  frost  and  temperatures  exceeding  900  have  been  recorded. 

The  rainfall  in  the  plains  is  meagre,  and  somewhat  capricious.  It 
is  least  in  the  south,  where  it  averages  30  inches,  increasing  to  about 
40  inches  in  the  extreme  north.  In  the  hills  it  is  considerably  heavier, 
with  a  mean  of  about  58  inches,  while  as  much  as  75  inches  have  been 
recorded.  In  November,  1899,  an  extraordinary  fall  of  rain  caused 
great  damage,  breaching  the  railway  and  flooding  a  large  part  of 
Mandalay  city ;  several  bridges  were  swept  away,  and  a  village  was 
destroyed  with  a  loss  of  seven  lives.  Such  storms  are  frequent  at 
the  beginning  and  end  of  the  rains,  though  as  a  rule  the  havoc  they 
work  is  inconsiderable. 

The  District  has  from  very  early  times  been  a  part  of  the  kingdom 

of  Burma.     The  history  of  the  foundation  of  Mandalay  City  is  con 

tained  in  a  separate  article,  and  the  account  of  the 

,.    ,       t.  •  •  ,     f,  -ii-  History, 

negotiations   ot  the   British  Uovernment  with    king 

Thlbaw   at   Mandalay  is  given    in    the   article   on    Burma.     We   are 

concerned   here    with    the    settling   of  the    District   after   the   fall   of 

Mandalay   in   November,    1885.     Though   about    1,000    troops    were 

quartered   in   Mandalay  itself  after  the  annexation,  the  District  was 

for  some  time  overrun  and  practically  administered  by  three  or  four 

dacoit  leaders,  who  gave   themselves  out  as  acting  for  the  Myingun 

prince,  and  who  were  kept  together  by  a  relative  of  his.     Dacoitie^ 

continued  throughout  1S86,  but  in  1887  their  perpetrators  wore  hunted 

down.     In    August,   1SS7,   a  rising    took   place  in  the   Maymyo  sub- 


128  MANDALAY  DISTRICT 

division  under  the  Setkya  pretender,  and  the  Assistant  Commissioner 
at  Maymyo  was  killed.  Two  dacoit  leaders,  Nga  To  and  Nga  Yaing, 
at  that  time  held  the  islands  of  the  Irrawaddy  and  made  raids  right 
up  to  the  walls  of  Mandalay  ;  and  a  third,  known  as  Nga  Zeya, 
occupied  the  hilly  country  in  the  north  and  north-east  of  the  District. 
However,  these  leaders  were  either  driven  out  of  the  country  or 
executed  in  1888  and  1889,  and  their  gangs  were  broken  up.  The 
last  dacoit  band,  led  by  Kyaw  Zaw,  a  lieutenant  of  the  Setkya  pre- 
tender, was  dispersed  in  1889-90.  It  had  till  then  harried  the  Maymyo 
subdivision  and  the  neighbouring  hilly  tracts  of  Kyaukse  District. 

Pagodas  of  all  sizes  are  dotted  over  the  plain,  crowning  the  low 
limestone  hills  that  rise  out  of  it.  Some  of  the  most  interesting  of 
these  lie  in  or  close  to  Mandalay  itself,  and  are  described  under 
Mandalay  City.  In  the  Madaya  township  are  the  Sutaungbyi  and 
Sutaungya  pagodas.  The  former  was  built  in  the  eleventh  century 
by  king  Anawrata,  on  his  return  from  China,  to  commemorate  his 
victories  there.  The  latter  was  erected  by  king  Mindon  in  1874  for 
the  use  of  the  royal  family,  it  is  said,  lest  any  among  them  who  aspired 
to  the  throne  should  obtain  the  fulfilment  of  their  prayers  which 
the  more  venerable  shrine  was  believed  to  ensure.  At  Tawbu  in 
the  same  township  is  an  old  pagoda  where  a  great  festival  is  held 
in  February.  An  impressive  sight  is  the  Shwegyetyet  group  of  shrines, 
about  600  years  old,  on  the  bank  of  the  river  at  Amarapura.  Large 
crowds  assemble  annually  to  witness  the  feeding  of  the  fish  which 
come  up  in  shoals  to  be  fed  at  the  great  Tabaung  feast  of  the  Shwe- 
/ayan  pagoda  on  the  Myitnge  river,  built  by  Shinmunhla,  the  queen 
of  Anawrata.  The  fish  are  so  tame  that  they  are  called  up  by  the 
voice  and  are  fed  by  hand,  pious  worshippers  decorating  their  heads 
with  gold-leaf.  In  the  north  of  the  District,  8  miles  east  of  Singu, 
is  the  Shwemale  pagoda.  According  to  an  inscription,  it  was  built 
about  1,000  years  ago  by  king  Vamaingsithu,  who  gave  up  certain 
lands  to  be  worked  by  payakyuns  (pagoda  slaves)  and  their  descen- 
dants, the  revenue  to  go  to  repairs  of  the  pagoda.  The  receipts  are 
at  present  spent  for  the  most  part  on  festivals,  as  may  be  inferred 
from  the  neglected  appearance  of  the  shrine. 

Little  is  known  regarding  the  population  under  native  rule,  but  it 

is  clear  that  it  was  smaller  in  1891  than  before  annexation.     In  1891 

.  the  inhabitants  numbered  375,055,  of  whom  188,815 

belonged   to    Mandalay   city.       By    1901    the    total 

had  fallen  to  366,507,   the  residents  of  the  city  having  dwindled  to 

183,816. 

The  chief  statistics  of  area  and  population  for  1901  are  given  in 
the  table  on  the  next  page. 

The  principal  town   is  MANDALAY,  the  headquarters,  and  formerly 


POPULATION 


129 


the  capital  of  independent  Burma.  The  attractions  of  the  Burmese 
court,  and  the  comparative  security  against  dacoities  that  its  presence 
ensured,  were  doubtless  responsible  in  pre-annexation  days  for  the 
existence  of  a  larger  population  than  the  District  was  able  economi- 
cally to  support.  The  waning  of  the  former  and  the  extension  of 
the  latter  throughout  Burma  have  had  the  effect  of  drawing  off  the 
surplus  not  only  from  the  city,  but  also  from  the  adjacent  townships 
of  Amarapura  and  Patheingyi.  The  census  figures  show  that  the 
flow  of  emigrants  has  been  mostly  towards  Ma-ubin,  Pvapon,  and 
Hanthawaddy  Districts,  and  to  Rangoon,  which  together  contain 
nearly  30,000  persons  born  in  and  about  Mandalay.  The  rural 
population  in  1901  was  172,300,  rather  less  than  half  the  total,  and 
the  average  density  in  the  rural  areas  was  82  persons  per  square 
mile.  Buddhists  predominate  ;  but  in  1901  there  were  20,300  Musal- 
mans,  13,400  Hindus,  and  1,000  Sikhs,  mostly  residents  of  the  city. 
Burmese  is  the  language  of  91  per  cent,  of  the  people. 


square 
es. 

Num 

ber  of 

c 

CO 

u 

—  u 

|1 

age  of 

on  in 

ron  be- 

1891 

— 

Township. 

.E'3 

V 

u 

< 
25 

B 

B 

0 

H 

I 

;       |   Village 

3 

a. 
0 

ts  v 

rt  t-  , 
"5  rt 

5.  a 

Percenl 

variati 

populat 

tween 

and  1 

Numl 

persons 

read 

wr 

Mandalay  City   . 

183,816 

7>353 

-    3 

64-938 

Amarapura 

85 

I 

227 

43,884 

516 

-  '3 

9,694 

Patheingyi . 

213 

... 

I52 

28,546 

!34 

—   IO 

3,857 

Madaya 

321 

217 

53-212 

166 

+      4 

1 3,443 

Singu 

712 

146 

35.670 

5° 

-    4 

10,251 

Pvintha 

I9O 

54 

4- -=95 

23 

-  '3 

543 

Maymyo 

396 

I 

101 

•3,730 

35 

+  7- 

2,230 

\\  etw  in 

District  total 

175 
2.1 17 

... 

37 

3-354 

19 

+  r9 

357 

3 

934 

366.507 

'73 

—    2 

'05-313 

In  1901  Burmans  numbered  306.300;  Shans  (for  the  most  part 
in  the  hilly  Maymyo  subdivision),  5,400  ;  and  Danus,  a  mixture  of 
the  last  two  races,  6,300.  Natives  of  India  are  numerous.  There 
were  7,900  Indian  immigrants  in  1891,  and  this  number  had  increased 
in  1901  to  15,400,  of  whom  12,000  lived  in  Mandalay  city.  The 
oldest  foreign  settlers  are  the  Kathes  and  Ponnas,  a  large  number 
of  whom  are  descended  from  Manipuri  prisoners  of  war.  They  now 
number  nearly  9,000,  and  are  mostly  domiciled  in  the  city  and  its 
environs,  though  the  Ponnas  have  their  own  villages  in  the  Amarapura 
township.  The  percentage  of  Indian  women  is  exceptionally  high, 
a  fact  which  points  to  a  large  permanent  Indian  colony.  Chinamen, 
for  the  most  part  traders  and  artisans  in  Mandalay  and  Maymyo, 
number  1,600.  The  European  community  in  1901  numbered  2,200 
(composed    largely    of    the    British    troops    in    cantonments).        The 


,  3o  .)/.  iNDALA  ) '  DISTRICT 

number  of  persons  directly  dependent  on  agriculture  in  lyoi  was 
84,698,  or  less  than  half  the  rural  population  and  a  quarter  of  the  total. 
More  than  37,000  persons  living  in  the  hills  in  the  north  and  east 
are  dependent  on  taungya  (shifting)  cultivation  alone. 

Christians  in  1901  numbered  4,389,  of  whom  2,062  were  natives 
(mostly  Madrasis).  Mandalay  city  is  the  see  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
bishop,  under  whom  nine  priests  are  at  work  in  the  District,  but  rather 
among  the  Indian  Christians  than  the  indigenous  folk.  The  mission 
possesses  thriving  schools  and  an  important  asylum  for  lepers.  The 
American  Baptists  have  three  pastors  at  work  among  the  Burmans 
and  natives  of  India.  The  Anglican  Church  is  represented  by  the 
S.P.G.  Mission  in  Mandalay  city,  where  also  the  Wesleyan  Mission 
has  its  head-quarters,  and  controls  a  leper  asylum. 

Owing  to  the  scanty  rainfall,  the  greater  part  of  the  plain  is  at 
present  uncultivable.  Agricultural  conditions  have,  however,  been 
improved  by  the  opening  of  the  new  Mandalay 
Canal,  which  should  eventually  result  in  a  con- 
siderable expansion  of  cultivation.  The  settlement  of  1892-3  divided 
the  District  into  five  soil  tracts.  The  first  is  composed  of  a  thick 
absorptive  clay,  commanded  by  the  Shwetachaung  Canal,  taking  off 
from  the  Madaya  river.  The  second  is  a  stiff  paddy  clay  or  cotton 
soil,  formerly  irrigated  by  the  Aungbinle  tank,  but  now  by  distribu- 
taries from  the  Mandalay  Canal.  The  third  is  a  free  and  friable 
kind  of  sandy  loam,  and  in  some  places  a  stiff  paddy  clay  or  cotton 
soil,  formerly  commanded  by  the  Shwelaung  Canal,  the  place  of 
which  has  practically  been  taken  by  the  Mandalay  Canal.  The  fourth 
is  alluvial  land  inundated  during  the  rains.  The  fifth  consists  of 
rough  broken  land,  composed  largely  of  cotton  soil  with  patches 
of  sandy  loam,  where  cultivation  depends  entirely  upon  a  timely 
rainfall.  There  is  very  little  variety  in  the  systems  of  cultivation  ; 
rice  is  the  chief  crop,  and  the  plough  and  harrow  are  the  main  agri- 
cultural implements.  Taungya,  or  shifting,  cultivation  prevails  in 
the  Maymyo  subdivision,  though  here  too  a  certain  amount  of  irri- 
gated rice  is  grown  in  terraced  rice-fields  in  the  bottoms  of  the 
valleys. 

About  three-fourths  of  the  cultivated  land  is  state  land  (chiefly 
a/wiudansa,  or  land  held  on  a  service  tenure).  The  non-state  lands 
are  mostly  lands  acquired  in  the  latter  days  of  the  monarchy  by 
purchase,  or  presented  to  junior  members  of  the  royal  family  and 
others.  The  table  on  the  next  page  exhibits  the  main  agricultural 
statistics  for  1903-4,  in  square  miles. 

Exclusive  of  the  Maymyo  subdivision,  for  which  no  statistics  exist, 
273  square  miles  were  under  cultivation  in  1890-1,  196  square  miles 
in    1900-1,  and    246  square   miles    in    1903-4.     The   increase   in  the 


AGRICULTURE 


131 


cultivation  and  a  diversion    of  about    9,000  acres   from   'dry   crops' 

to   rice  are  due  to   the   opening  of   the   Mandalay   (anal,   which   has 
also  reduced  the  area  of  current  fallows  by  nearly  7,000  acres.     The 
.irea  under  rice  had  risen   in   1903-4   to   136   square  miles,  of  which 
98  were  irrigated.     Of  the  total  rice  crop,  about  27  square  miles  were 
mayin   or   hot-season    rice.     A    large    share    of  this    is   twice-cropped 
irrigated   land   in  the    Shwetachaung    Canal    tract.     Pulse    of  various 
kinds,  pegyi  being  the  most  popular,  covers  56  square  miles,  mainly 
in  the  northern  or  Madaya  subdivision.     Gram  and  wheat  each  occupy 
about    3,500  acres,  chiefly  in  the   Patheingyi    township.      The   areas 
under  both  these  crops,  as  well  as  those  under  various  fodder  crop> 
and  sesamum,  the  last  covering   14   square  miles,  have  all  decreased 
of  late,  owing  to  the  land  being  converted  into  irrigated  paddy-fields. 
Tobacco  is  cultivated  to  the  extent  of  about  3,500  acres  on  the  allu- 
vial deposits  in  the  Irrawaddy  islands.    Onions,  tomatoes,  and  chillies 
are  grown  to  a   smaller  extent.      The  area  under  garden  cultivation 
is    16    square    miles,  including    mango  groves,   nearly   2,000  acres  of 
which  clothe  the  bank  of  the  Myitnge  river  and  areas  in  the  Amara- 
pura  township,  and  4,600  acres  of  plantain  groves.     There  are  very 
valuable   gardens   at   Madaya,  watered   by  the  Shwetachaung  Canal, 
in    which   large   quantities   of  coco-nuts,   plantains,  betel-vines,    pine- 
apples, mangoes,  papayas,  and  custard-apples  are  grown.     Grapes  have 
been  tried  in   Amarapura,  and  strawberries  do  well  in  Maymyo.     A 
certain  amount  of  homestead  garden  cultivation  is  attached  to  every 
Shan   village  in  the  Maymyo  subdivision.     There  is   a  considerable 
amount  of  bobabaing  or  non-state  land  in  the  District.    In  all,  52  estates 
exceed  100  acres  in  extent,  and  one  has  an  area  of  670  acres.    The 
average  size  of  a  rice  or  mixed  crop  holding  is  5^  acres,  that  of  other 
holdings  is  2  acres. 


Township.            1  otal  area. 

Cultivated. 

7 
43 

65 

81 

5° 

Irrigated 

2 
12 

29 

39 
18 

Forests. 

Maudalay  City  . 
Amarapura 
Patheingyi 
Madaya     . 
Singu 
Pyintha      . 
Maymyo    . 
Wetwin 

Total 

25 
85 
213 
3^ 
712 
190 

3915 

J  75 

1 
'"      805 

2,117 

246 

100                805 

The  cultivation  of  tobacco  and  wheat  from  imported  seed  is 
gradually  spreading.  Indian  wheat  and  Havana  and  Virginia  tobacco 
seed  have  given  satisfactory  results,  producing  better  crops  than  the 
indigenous  varieties.     The  local  cultivators   seldom  avail   themselves 


132  M AND  ALA  Y  DISTRICT 

of  the  benefits  of  the  Land  Improvement  and  Agriculturists'  Loans 
Acts,  preferring  to  obtain  advances  from  money-lenders,  who  are  less 
particular  as  to  security,  and  are  quite  content  with  the  production  of 
a  land  revenue  receipt. 

There  are  no  local  breeds  of  cattle  or  ponies.  Bullocks  are  used  for 
ploughing  very  much  more  commonly  than  buffaloes.  Ponies  are 
brought  from  the  Shan  States,  as  well  as  from  Pakokku  and  other 
Districts  down  the  river.  The  area  of  reserved  grazing  ground  ex- 
ceeds 1,000  acres,  and  the  large  uncultivated  areas  and  broad  kazins 
or  field  embankments  will  render  further  reservation  unnecessary  for 
some  time  to  come. 

At  the  time  of  annexation  the  District  contained  several  canals  of 
considerable  size.  The  Shwelaung  Canal  took  off  from  the  Madaya 
river  at  Zehaung,  close  to  the  headworks  of  the  new  Mandalay 
Canal,  and,  crossing  the  District  diagonally  for  about  30  miles,  joined 
the  Irrawaddy  at  Amarapura.  On  the  foundation  of  Mandalay,  it  was 
directed  so  as  to  supply  the  city  moat,  but  it  was  never  very  reliable, 
and  failed  absolutely  in  1880.  The  Shwetachaung  Canal  was  26  miles 
in  length,  taking  off  from  the  Madaya  stream  near  Madaya,  and  running 
south  to  join  the  Irrawaddy  below  Mandalay.  From  the  dam  just 
above  Mandalay  (below  which  the  canal  is  empty)  to  its  head  it  is  still 
navigable  by  country  boats.  It  is  a  valuable  source  of  supply,  irrigating 
about  50  square  miles.  Between  these  two  is  the  Dinga  stream, 
supplying  the  Nanda  lake  north  of  Mandalay.  The  present  Mandalay 
Canal  takes  the  place  of  the  Shwelaung  Canal  and  of  the  Aungbinle 
and  Nanda  lakes,  which  are  being  converted  into  paddy-fields.  The 
area  annually  irrigable  by  this  work  is  estimated  at  80,000  acres,  and 
that  irrigable  by  the  Shwetachaung  Canal  at  28,000  acres  ;  the  area 
actually  irrigated  in  1903-4  by  the  former  was  30,000  acres,  that  by 
the  latter  24,000  acres.  In  the  same  year  2,300  acres  were  irrigated 
from  wells,  and  1,500  acres  from  tanks.  The  total  irrigated  area  of 
the  District  in  1903-4  was  100  square  miles.  More  than  one-third 
of  this  total  lies  in  the  Madaya,  and  more  than  a  quarter  in  the 
Patheingyi  township. 

The  fisheries  are  mainly  situated  near  the  Irrawaddy,  their  success 

depending  upon  the  nature  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  river.      The 

season  begins  in  October,  when  the  river  falls  and 
Fisheries 

the  outlets  of  the  lagoons  and  connecting  channels 

are  closed  with  yins  (bamboo  screens).     In  the  Amarapura  township 

the  most  important  fishery  is  the  Taungthaman  lake,  which  brings  in 

about  Rs.  8,000  annually.     There  are  two  valuable   fisheries  in  the 

Madaya  township,  the  larger,  the   Kyi- in  fishery,  yielding  an  annual 

revenue  of  about  Rs.  9,500.     In  the  Singu  township,  where  the  river 

spreads  out  over  a  considerable  area  in  lagoons  and  backwaters,  seven 


TRADE  AND  COMMUNICATIONS  133 

large    fisheries    realize    more    than    Rs.   5,000   each.      In    1903-4   the 
fisheries  yielded  a  total  revenue  of  1*2  lakhs. 

The  forests  are  of  various  types,  depending  on  climatic  conditions, 
which  vary  considerably  in  different  parts.  In  the  plains  the  jungle 
growth  consists  of  open  scrub,  increasing  in  height 
and  density  as  the  rainfall  increases.  The  principal 
species  here  are  si  (Zizyphus  Jujubd)  and  kan  (Carissa  Carandas), 
overtopped  here  and  there  by  a  tanaung  {Acacia  leucophlaea),  nabc 
(Odin  a  Wodier),  or  sit  (Albizzia  procera).  On  the  lower  slopes,  facing 
the  plain,  the  forest  is  of  the  type  known  as  'dry,'  in  which  the  princi- 
pal species  are  sha  (Acacia  Catechii),  dahat  {Tectona  Hamiltoniana), 
than  {Terminalia  O/ireri),  ingyin  (Pentacme  siamensis),  and  myinwa 
{Dendrocalamus  strictus),  or  the  common  bamboo.  With  increasing 
rainfall  this  gradually  merges  into  mixed  forest  in  which  teak,  padauk 
(Pterocarpus  indicus),  and  pyingado  (Xylia  dolabriformis)  are  found. 
In  the  north  are  mixed  forests  with  belts  of  indaing  on  laterite  soil.  In 
these  tracts  the  principal  species,  besides  teak,  padauk,  pyingado,  and 
in  (Dipterocarpus  tuberculatus),  are  thitya  (Shorea  obtusa)  and  thitsi 
(Me/anorrhoea  usitata),  with  various  species  of  Sterculia  and  bamboo. 
Oaks  and  chestnuts  begin  to  appear  at  an  elevation  of  about  2,800 
feet,  and  on  the  Maymyo  plateau  these  are  among  the  most  common 
species.  A  small  patch  of  pine  forest  (Pinus  Khasya)  exists  on  a  hill 
about  12  miles  east  of  Maymyo.  Besides  teak,  the  trees  yielding  the 
most  valuable  timber  are  padauk  and  pyingado ;  thitya,  ingyin,  and  in 
are  also  employed  in  building.  The  other  trees  of  economic  importance 
arc  the  sha,  yielding  the  cutch  of  commerce  :  the  thitsi,  producing 
a  black  varnish  ;  and  the  various  species  of  Sterculia  (Burmese,  share), 
the  bark  of  which  yields  a  strong  fibre. 

The  area  of  'reserved'  forest  in  1903-4  was  335  square  miles,  and 
that  of  'unclassed'  forest  470  square  miles,  principally  in  the  Maymyo 
subdivision.  The  only  plantations  that  have  been  formed  are  those  in 
the  Singu  and  Lower  Madaya  Reserves,  in  which  61  acres  had  been 
planted  up  to  the  end  of  190 1  on  the  teak  taungya  system.  The  forest 
revenue  in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  13,000. 

The  Sagyin  Hills  near  Madaya  produce  spinels  and  rubies,  plum- 
bago, graphite,  and  alabaster.  Copperas  is  met  with  at  Kainggyithamin 
and  Yegyi,  and  lead  at  Onhlut.  Mica  has  been  found  at  Shwegyin. 
9  miles  north  of  Singu,  and  an  inferior  kind  of  coal,  of  little  use  for 
fuel,  has  been  dug  near  Wetwin  on  the  Mandalay-Lashio  railway. 

Most  of  the  arts  and  manufactures  of  the  District  are  carried  on  in 

Mandalay  and  are  described  in  the  city  article.      In 

a  ,  •       ,         ,  •  r   ■     1     /      •       1  r        Trade  and 

Amarapura  township  the    chief    industry   is   that  ot  communications. 

silk-weaving,     in    which    whole     villages    are     often 

occupied.     The  beautiful  ackeik  tannins  (skirts)  come  from  the  Kathe 


i34  MANDALAY  DISTRICT 

(Manipuri)  villages  of  this  township.  A  little  cotton  is  woven  in  the 
rural  areas,  but  only  for  local  use.  An  important  manufacture  of 
Amarapura  is  that  of  kammawa  writing  slips.  These  measure  18  inches 
by  2,  and  are  made  of  four  folds  of  chintz  stuck  together  with  black 
ihitsi  and  overlaid  with  vermilion.  They  form  the  material  on  which 
kammawa,  or  Buddhist  religious  texts,  are  written  in  Pali. 

About  three-fourths  of  the  total  population  being  non-agricultural, 
a  large  internal  trade  is  carried  on  between  the  city  of  Mandalay  and 
the  District.  The  through  trade  is  also  considerable,  imports  from  the 
Shan  States  being  shipped  for  ports  down  the  river  in  the  steamers  of 
the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company,  together  with  the  main  products 
of  the  District,  such  as  hides  and  skins,  grain,  and  silk  goods.  These, 
and  the  rubies,  stick-lac,  rubber,  and  cutch  that  come  from  up  country, 
are  exchanged  for  imports,  mostly  manufactured  goods  from  Rangoon. 
The  latter  include  hardware,  metals,  cotton  and  woollen  piece-goods, 
and  general  stores  from  Europe ;  silks  and  dyes  from  Japan  and 
China;  and  ngapi  and  salted  fish  from  Lower  Burma.  These  are 
brought  by  rail  and  river  from  Rangoon,  and  are  to  some  extent 
re-exported  to  the  Shan  States  and  Western  China.  The  total  value 
of  the  imports  from  the  Northern  Shan  States  amounted  in  1903-4  to 
6|  lakhs  by  caravan  and  21  \  lakhs  by  rail.  By  far  the  most  important 
commodity  brought  in  is  pickled  tea  (valued  at  21  lakhs)  from  the 
Hslpaw  and  Tawngpeng  hills.  The  exports  to  the  Northern  Shan 
States  were  valued  in  1903 -4  at  5-f  lakhs  by  caravan  and  22^  lakhs 
by  rail.  They  included  cotton  piece-goods  (7^  lakhs),  dried  fish 
(if-  lakhs),  cotton  twist  and  yarn  (2^  lakhs),  salt  (2  lakhs),  and 
petroleum  (1^  lakhs).  Maymyo  is  a  registering  station  for  trade  to 
and  from  both  the  Northern  and  Southern  Shan  States.  The  imports 
from  the  Southern  States  in  1903-4  were  valued  at  a  lakh,  and  the 
exports  at  a  lakh  and  a  half.  Trade  with  ^Yestern  China  along  the 
Maymyo  route  is  registered,  but  it  is  very  small  and  shows  no  signs  of 
increasing. 

The  main  railway  from  Rangoon  enters  the  District  10  miles  south 
of  Mandalay  city  on  the  bank  of  the  Myitnge,  which  it  crosses  by  a 
fine  girder-bridge,  and  passes  through  the  Amarapura  township  to  the 
terminus  in  the  city.  From  Myohaung,  3  miles  south  of  the  terminus> 
there  are  two  branches.  One  runs  westwards  through  Amarapura  to 
a  point  on  the  bank  of  the  Irrawaddy  12  miles  from  Mandalay,  where 
a  ferry  connects  it  with  the  Sagaing  terminus  of  the  line  to  Myitkyina. 
The  other  turns  abruptly  eastwards,  and  after  a  level  run  of  16  miles 
across  the  plain  climbs  up  the  Maymyo  plateau,  and,  passing  Maymyo, 
leaves  the  District  near  Wetwin  about  55  miles  from  Mandalay.  The 
city  will  probably  before  long  be  connected  with  Madaya  by  a  light 
railway. 


.  /  DMINISTR.  I  TIOX  , ,  - 

The  District  is  fairly  well  provided  with  roads.  Of  these,  the  most 
important  outside  municipal  limits  are  the  Mandalay-Lashio  road, 
metalled  in  part,  passing  through  Maymyo  and  quitting  the  District  at 
Wetwin ;  the  Mandalay-Madaya  road  along  the  Shwetachaung  Canal 
embankment :  and  the  Mandalay-Lamaing  road,  the  two  last  being 
each  about  16  miles  long.  These  three  are  maintained  by  the  Public 
Works  department.  The  District  fund  is  responsible  for  the  upkeep 
of  a  considerable  number  of  inter-village  tracks,  which  include  the 
Madaya-Singu  road  (32  miles),  continuing  for  another  19  miles  to 
the  Ruby  Mines  District  boundary,  and  3  miles  of  the  metalled  road 
from  Mandalay  to  Amarapura.  There  is  an  electric  tramway  in 
Mandalay  city. 

The  Irrawaddy  is  navigable  at  all  seasons  by  large  river  steamers, 
while  country  boats  navigate  the  Madaya  and  Myitnge  rivers  all  the 
year  round,  the  former  up  to  Sagabin,  about  20  miles,  and  the  latter 
for  16  miles,  and  in  the  rains  for  another  30.  The  Shwetachaung 
Canal  is  navigable  from  the  dam  just  above  Mandalay  to  its  head. 
Government  launches  ply  constantly  between  Mandalay  and  other 
stations  on  the  river  ;  and  the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company  runs,  in 
addition  to  some  cargo-boats,  one  mail  steamer  a  week  to  Bhamo, 
two  to  Thabeikkyin  (for  the  Ruby  Mines),  and  two  down  the  river  to 
Rangoon,  calling  at  the  several  river-side  stations,  and  one  daily 
to  Myingyan.  The  tolls  levied  on  the  Shwetachaung  Canal  and  the 
six  ferries  that  the  District  contains  bring  in  respectively  Rs.  6,000  and 
Rs.  8,000  a  year. 

The  District  is  divided  into  five  subdivisions :  the  eastern  and 
western  subdivisions  of  Mandalay  City,  the  former  including  the  can- 
tonment ;   the  Amarapura  subdivision  in  the  south- 

.  •        .,       A  ,    ^  Administration, 

west,  comprising  the  Amarapura  and  Patheixgyi 

townships ;  the  Madaya  subdivision  in  the  north,  comprising  the 
Madaya  and  Singtj  townships ;  and  the  Maymyo  subdivision  in 
the  south-east,  comprising  the  Pyintha,  Maymyo,  and  Wetwin  town- 
ships. The  subdivisions  and  townships  are  under  the  usual  executive 
officers.  The  three  township  officers  in  the  Maymyo  subdivision, 
however,  are  little  more  than  myothugyis,  and  the  myo-oks  at  Wetwin 
and  Pyintha  have  third-class  powers,  but  cannot  take  cognizance  of 
cases  and  never  try  any.  There  were  449  village  headmen  in  1903. 
The  District  falls  within  three  Public  Works  divisions.  The  greater 
part  forms  a  portion  of  the  Mandalay  division,  with  head-quarters  at 
Mandalay  city.  Maymyo  and  its  environs  form,  with  the  Lashio 
subdivision,  the  Maymyo  division  under  an  Executive  Engineer  at 
Maymyo,  and  the  Mandalay  Canal  constitutes  a  third  charge.  There 
are  two  Deputy-Conservators  of  Forests,  one  in  charge  of  the  depot 
division  at  Mandalay  and  one  at   Maymyo,  who   in   addition  to  the 


1 3  6  MANDA  LA  Y  DIS  TRICT 

Mandalay  forests  has  charge  of  the  forests  in  Kyaukse,  Meiktila,  and 
Myingyan  Districts,  and  in  the  Northern  Shan  States.  At  the  port 
of  Mandalay  are  two  officers  of  the  Royal  Indian  Marine,  one  being 
Marine  Transport  officer  for  Upper  Burma,  the  other  the  Superintend- 
ing Engineer  for  Government  vessels  and  launches. 

Mandalay  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  Judicial  Commissioner,  Upper 
Burma,  as  well  as  of  the  Commissioner  of  Mandalay,  who  is  Sessions 
Judge.  There  is  a  whole-time  District  Judge,  who  is  also  additional 
Sessions  Judge  of  the  Mandalay  Division  and  Judge  of  the  Mandalay 
Small  Cause  Court.  In  criminal  work  the  Deputy-Commissioner  is 
assisted  by  the  head-quarters  Assistant  Commissioner  (senior  magis- 
trate). Violent  crime  is  most  prevalent  in  the  Amarapura  subdivision, 
and  theft  of  stray  cattle  is  common  in  Maymyo.  On  the  whole,  how- 
ever, the  crime  of  the  District  presents  no  special  features. 

Under  native  rule  the  District  was  divided  administratively  into 
eight  parts,  one  comprising  the  city  and  one  the  islands  in  the  Irra- 
waddy,  while  the  rest  were  under  salaried  officials  called  ne-oks.  The 
actual  collection  of  revenue  was  done  by  the  myothugyis  and  sub- 
ordinate thugyis,  who  were  paid  by  a  10  per  cent,  commission  on  the 
revenue  collected,  and  whose  office  was  as  a  rule  hereditary.  Appeals 
lay  first  to  the  Akundaw  Tana  (revenue  court),  and  second  appeals 
were  allowed  to  the  Hlutdaiv  (high  court) ;  but  in  cases  relating  to 
royal  lands  appeals  lay  to  the  Leyondaiv  (land  court),  and  thence  to 
the  Hlutdaw.  Thathameda,  at  the  average  rate  of  Rs.  10  a  house- 
hold, was  assessed  by  thamadis,  elders  of  the  village  specially  appointed 
for  the  purpose,  but  not  in  the  city  itself,  where  instead  of  the  tha- 
Ihameda,  imposts  were  levied  on  goods  sold.  No  land  revenue  was 
collected  over  the  greater  part  of  the  District  on  bobabaing  or  non-state 
lands,  unless  they  were  irrigated,  in  which  case  a  tax  of  Rs.  2  per  pe 
(1-75  acres)  was  levied.  On  state  lands  a  rate  theoretically  equivalent 
to  one-fourth  of  the  gross  produce  was  assessed,  but  in  practice  the 
amount  was  fixed  by  custom. 

Three  attempts  at  a  regular  settlement  were  made  in  the  District 
soon  after  annexation.  The  first  two  were  confined  to  limited  tracts  ; 
but  in  1 89 1,  after  a  cadastral  survey  had  been  completed,  a  regular 
settlement  of  the  plain  was  undertaken.  The  rates  proposed  in  1893 
were  crop  rates  fixed  at  one-eighth  of  the  gross  produce  on  state  land, 
and  two-thirds  of  that  rate  on  non-state  land.  These  proposals  were, 
however,  revised,  and  in  1896  new  rates  on  state  land  were  introduced 
as  follows  :  for  kaukkyi  rice,  Rs.  2  to  Rs.  7-6  per  acre ;  for  may  in 
(or  hot-season)  rice,  Rs.  2-4  to  Rs.  4  per  acre.  Gardens  paid  from 
Rs.  5  to  Rs.  25  ;  miscellaneous  crops  on  islands  and  alluvial  lands, 
Rs.  2-8  to  Rs.  7-8;  and  ra,  or  upland  holdings,  Rs.  i-S  to 
Rs.  4   per  acre.     These  changes  brought   in  a  revenue  of  3  lakhs  in 


ADMINISTRA  TIOX  1 3  7 

1897-8,  as  compared  with  \\  lakhs  realized  in  the  year  before  their 
introduction.  In  1899- 1900  rates  were  levied  on  non-state  land,  the 
old  water  rate  being  abolished,  while  irrigated  lands  paid  seven-eighths 
of  the  state  land  rate  and  non-irrigated  three-fourths  ;  at  the  same  time 
the  thathameda  rate  was  readjusted.  The  result  was  a  slight  increase 
of  revenue.  Since  1901  these  rates  have  been  resanctioned  from  year 
to  year,  and  are  still  in  force,  except  in  the  new  Mandalay  Canal  tract, 
where  tentative  land  revenue  and  water  rates  came  into  force  in 
1903-4.  The  rates,  however,  still  require  readjustment,  especially  in 
the  Shwetachaung  tract,  and  settlement  operations  are  now  being 
carried  out  with  a  view  to  their  revision.  No  land  revenue  is 
collected  in  the  three  townships  of  the  Maymyo  subdivision. 

The  table  below  shows,  in  thousands  of  rupees,  the  fluctuations  in 
the  land  revenue  and  total  revenue  since  1 890-1.  At  present  an  impor- 
tant item  of  receipt  is  thathameda,  which  amounted  to  Rs.  2,59,600 
in  1890-1,  Rs.  2,59,400  in  1900-1,  and  Rs.  2,78,000  in  1903-4. 


1890-1. 

1900-1. 

1903-4. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

1.77 
6,54 

4,17 
13,14 

5,64* 

15,21 

*  Inclusive  of  Rs.  12,000  collected  in  Mandalay  city. 

The  District  fund,  administered  by  the  Deputy-Commissioner  for 
the  provision  of  various  local  needs,  had  an  income  of  Rs.  42,600  in 
1903-4.  The  chief  item  of  expenditure  was  public  works  (Rs.  40,000). 
Mandalav  City  is  the  only  municipality,  but  Maymyo  is  administered 
by  a  town  committee. 

The  District  garrison,  which  is  divided  between  Mandalay  and 
Maymyo,  consists  of  a  British  battalion,  a  Gurkha  battalion,  and  two 
Punjabi  regiments,  a  Native  mountain  battery,  and  a  transport  column. 
The  head-quarters  of  the  Burma  division,  formerly  at  Rangoon,  are 
now  at  Maymyo,  while  Mandalay  is  the  head-quarters  of  a  military 
district. 

The  District  Superintendent  of  police  is  aided  by  four  Assistant 
Superintendents  (one  at  head-quarters,  the  others  in  charge  of  the 
two  urban  subdivisions  and  the  Maymyo  subdivision),  6  inspectors, 
19  head  constables,  68  sergeants,  625  Burman  and  335  Indian 
constables,  distributed  in  21  police  stations  and  15  outposts.  South 
of  the  city  are  large  barracks  for  the  Mandalay  military  police 
battalion,  the  strength  of  which  is  one  commandant,  two  assistant 
commandants,  and  1,356  native  officers  and  men.  One  assistant 
commandant  and  889  men  are  stationed  at  Mandalay  itself.  The 
only  other  military  police  posts  in  the  District  are  at  Maymyo 
(60  men)  and  Madaya  (25  men). 


138  MANDALAY  DISTRICT 

There  is  a  Central  jail  in  the  north-west  corner  of  Fort  Dufferin  at 
Mandalay,  with  accommodation  for  1,141  prisoners,  who  are  engaged 
in  gardening,  carpentry,  smithy  and  cane-work,  carriage -building  and 
repairing,  &c.  Large  orders  for  furniture  for  Government  offices  are 
carried  out  by  means  of  prison  labour. 

The  proportion  of  literate  persons  in  the  District  in  1901  was 
28-7  per  cent.  (49-9  males,  7-6  females).  The  total  number  of  pupils 
under  instruction  in  the  District  as  a  whole  was  13,773  in  1891, 
18,375  in  T9or,  and  21,720  in  1904.  The  principal  schools  are  in 
Mandalay  and   Maymyo. 

It  will  be  found  convenient  to  give  separate  educational  figures  for 
Mandalay  city  and  for  the  District.  Mandalay  city  contained  in 
1903-4,  142  special,  22  secondary,  91  primary,  and  927  private 
schools,  with  10,710  male  and  3,260  female  pupils.  These  schools 
were  maintained  at  a  total  cost  of  Rs.  96,000,  towards  which  muni- 
cipal funds  contributed  Rs.  38,000  and  Provincial  funds  Rs.  16,000. 
The  District,  excluding  the  city,  contained  in  the  same  year  4  special, 
7  secondary,  92  primary,  and  749  private  schools,  with  6,590  male 
and  r,i6o  female  pupils.  These  schools  are  maintained  largely  from 
Provincial  funds,  which  provided  Rs.  21,000  in  1903-4. 

There  are  four  hospitals  and  a  dispensary,  with  accommodation  for 
191  in-patients.  In  1903  the  number  of  cases  treated  was  5^508, 
including  2,987  in-patients,  and  i,86r  operations  were  performed. 
The  Mandalay  municipal  hospital  accounted  for  2,482  of  the  in- 
patients and  17,271  of  the  out-patients.  The  total  income  of  these 
institutions  amounted  to  i-i  lakhs,  towards  which  the  Mandalay 
municipality  contributed  Rs.  68,000,  the  Maymyo  town  committee 
Rs.  11,300,  and  Provincial  funds  Rs.  21,600.  In  addition  to  the 
hospitals,  two  institutions  for  lepers  are  maintained  at  Mandalay. 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  within  municipal  limits  and  in 
cantonments.  In  1903-4  the  number  of  persons  successfully  vac- 
cinated was  10,432,  representing  28  per  1,000  of  population. 

[Symes,  Eftibassy  to  Ava  (1795) ;  Crawford,  Mission  to  Ava  (1826) ; 
Colonel  Yule,  Narrative  of  the  Mission  sent  to  the  Court  of  Ava  (1857)  ; 
M.  Laurie,  Seit/ement  Report  (1894).] 

Mandalay  City.— Head-quarters  of  the  Division  and  District  of 
the  same  name  in  Upper  Burma,  and  capital  of  the  Burmese  kingdom 
from  1858  to  1885.  The  city  lies  in  210  59'  N.  and  960  6'  E.,  and 
occupies  part  of  a  plain,  here  about  8  miles  wide,  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  Irrawaddy,  between  the  river  and  the  Shan  range,  the  dead 
level  of  which  is  broken  only  by  a  hill  954  feet  in  height.  To  the 
south-west  of  this  hill,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  river,  are  the 
moat  and  walls  of  the  old  city,  nearly  6  miles  in  circumference. 
The    cantonments    include    the    hill  with    the   old   city  and  a   space 


MAX  DA  LAY  CITY  ,39 

to  the  north  and  cast  of  it,  about  6  square  miles  in  all.  West 
and  south  of  the  cantonments  is  the  present  native  city,  which 
stretches  to  the  river  on  the  west,  and  to  the  walls  of  the  old  fort 
of  Amarapura  on  the  south.  The  entire  area  of  the  municipality  and 
cantonments  is  25  square  miles,  but  this  includes  large  unoccupied 
spaces  at  the  four  corners.  Religious  buildings  are  scattered  over  the 
whole,  covering  with  their  precincts  2  square  miles.  The  European 
quarter  is  on  the  south  of  the  fort,  and  the  business  quarter  is  on  the 
west.  Masonry  buildings  are  general  in  the  latter,  but  over  the  rest 
of  the  city  the  houses  are  sometimes  of  wood,  more  commonly  of 
bamboo.  Paddy-fields  occupy  the  country  near  the  river  to  the  north 
and  south  ;  and  towards  the  south-east,  where  the  royal  gardens  of 
Mindon  once  were,  is  a  piece  of  land  now  given  over  to  the  St.  John's 
Leper  Asylum  and  to  rice  Cultivation.  As  the  city  lies  below  flood 
level,  it  is  protected  by  an  embankment,  which  runs  all  round  the 
municipality  and  cantonments,  and  is  in  some  places  doubled. 
A  canal,  called  the  Shwetachaung,  gives  water  connexion  with 
Madaya  on  the  north.  Along  the  river  bank  are  some  backwaters 
cut  off  by  the  embankments  and  gradually  filling  up. 

Mandalay  dates  only  from  the  accession  of  king  Mindon,  who  is 
said  to  have  been  induced  by  a  dream  to  abandon  for  it  the  old 
capital    of    Amarapura,    immediately    south    of    the  . 

present  municipal  limits.  The  walls  and  moat  of 
the  new  city  and  the  palace  were  constructed  with  paid  labour 
between  February,  1857,  and  May,  185S.  Jars  full  of  oil,  buried  in 
masonry  pits  at  each  of  the  four  corners,  are  said  to  have  taken  the 
place  of  the  human  sacrifices  which  had  once  been  customary.  The 
whole  area  to  be  occupied,  both  within  and  without  the  walls,  was  laid 
out  in  square  blocks  separated  by  broad  roads,  along  most  of  which 
tamarind  and  other  shade  trees  were  planted.  Many  of  these  blocks 
were  occupied  in  the  centre  by  a  high  official,  whose  retainers  dwelt 
along  the  edges. 

Mindon's  reign  was  peaceful,  except  for  an  attempt  at  rebellion  by 
his  son  the  Myingun  prince,  who  in  1866  killed  the  heir  apparent,  and 
eventually  fled  to  Rangoon.  Mindon  was  succeeded  in  1878  by  his 
son  Thibaw,  the  history  of  whose  reign  is  one  of  palace  intrigue  varied 
by  massacre.  A  year  after  his  accession  about  eighty  of  his  kindred 
men,  women,  and  children — were  murdered  in  the  palace  precincts, 
and  their  bodies  thrown  into  a  trench.  In  1884  occurred  a  further 
massacre  of  about  200  persons,  suspected  of  being  concerned  in  a  plot 
on  behalf  of  the  Myingun  prince.  In  1885  came  the  rupture  with  the 
British ;  an  expeditionary  force  was  dispatched  into  Upper  Burma, 
and  towards  the  end  of  November  of  that  year  General  Prendeigast's 
flotilla  appeared  off  Mandalay.      No  resistance  was  offered,  and  the 

VOL.  XVII.  K 


1 4o  M AND  ALA  Y  CITY 

king  received  Colonel  Sladen  in  a  summer-house  in  the  palace  gardens 
and  formally  surrendered  himself.  For  some  months  after  this  dacoi- 
ties  and  robberies  were  frequent  in  and  about  Mandalay,  but  the  city 
was  eventually  reduced  to  order.  About  a  tenth  of  the  urban  area  was 
burnt  down  during  the  hot  season  of  1886,  and  in  August  of  that  year 
an  abnormally  high  flood  burst  an  embankment  built  by  king  Mindon, 
and  caused  some  loss  of  property.  In  1887  a  municipal  committee 
was  formed  and  the  metalling  of  the  main  roads  taken  in  hand,  a 
telephone  system  was  introduced,  and  a  survey  partly  carried  out. 
Before  the  introduction  of  municipal  government  the  stockade  round 
the  palace  and  the  bamboo  houses  in  the  old  city  were  removed,  com- 
pensation being  paid  for  the  sites,  and  new  land  being  given  to  the 
expropriated. 

The  old  city  now  forms  part  of  the  cantonments,  and  is  known  as  Fort 
Dufferin.  The  walls  form  a  perfect  square,  with  a  side  a  mile  and 
.    .  a  quarter  long.     They  are  built  of  brick  and  pro- 

vided with  battlements,  the  total  height  being  29  feet. 
Picturesque  watch-houses  with  many-storeyed  roofs  rise  above  them 
at  regular  intervals,  thirteen  on  each  side,  the  largest  over  the  gates, 
which  are  twelve  in  number.  Outside  the  walls  is  a  strip  of  grass 
land,  and  beyond  this  the  moat,  more  than  200  feet  across,  and 
bridged  opposite  the  central  gate  on  each  side,  and  also  opposite  the 
gates  on  the  south-west  and  north-east. 

In  the  centre  of  the  square,  with  roads  converging  on  it  from  the 
four  main  gates,  is  a  platform  n  feet  high,  1,000  feet  long,  and  about 
half  as  wide,  on  which  the  palace  is  built.  It  was  surrounded  in  the 
Burmese  kings'  time  by  a  brick  wall  and  stockade  2,000  feet  square, 
but  these  have  been  removed.  Within  this  space,  north  and  south 
of  the  palace,  are  shady  pleasure  gardens  with  lakes  and  grottoes. 
The  garden  on  the  south  contains  the  summer-house  where  king 
Thlbaw  surrendered.  On  the  east  is  the  bell-tower  where  the  watches 
were  sounded,  and  north  of  it  the  glittering  tomb  of  king  Mindon, 
covered  with  glass  mosaic.  Opposite  the  bell-tower,  on  the  south  side 
of  the  road,  is  another  tower  enshrining  a  tooth  of  Buddha  ;  and  farther 
south  a  small  monastery  of  glass  mosaic  on  the  site  of  an  older  one, 
where  Thlbaw  was  living  in  retreat  with  shaven  head  and  yellow  robe, 
in  accordance  with  Burmese  custom,  when  called  to  the  throne. 

The  principal  throne-room,  surmounted  by  a  nine-roofed  .spire 
200  feet  high,  is  near  the  east  end  of  the  platform.  In  front  of  it 
is  an  open  hall  285  feet  long.  Its  golden  roof  is  supported  by  gilded 
teak  pillars,  some  of  them  60  feet  high.  The  building  was  repaired, 
and  the  gilding  renewed,  at  a  cost  of  more  than  a  lakh,  after  Lord 
Elgin's  visit  in  1898.  The  throne  is  approached  through  a  gate  ol 
gilded  iron  open-work  from  a  flight  of  steps  at  the  back.     To  the  west 


DESCRIPTION  i4, 

is  another  throne-room  in  which  foreign  representatives  were  received. 
Next  in  line  to  the  west  are  the  hall  of  the  body-guard  ;  a  waiting-room 
for  readers  and  others,  with  the  pages'  quarters  to  the  north  of  it ; 
another  throne-room  used  for  royal  marriages ;  and  a  lofty  room  with 
an  open  veranda  on  two  sides  that  was  used  by  king  Mindon  as 
a  sleeping-chamber.  Thibaw's  queens  slept  in  the  last  room  of  the 
series,  when  nut  in  the  royal  apartments  to  the  south.  On  the  west 
of  this  are  sitting-rooms  with  the  usual  gilded  pillars  and  roof,  and 
south  of  them  a  room  from  which  plays  were  witnessed.  To  the  east 
of  the  entrance  hall  is  a  brick  building  with  a  tank  (now  filled  in), 
where  the  king  and  queen  amused  themselves  at  the  annual  water- 
festival  by  watching  the  pages  and  maids-of-honour  throw  water  at  each 
other.  On  the  north  of  this  is  the  king's  treasure  chamber  and  a  room 
where  he  held  informal  levees,  and  on  the  east  the  council-chamber  where 
the  ministers  held  their  secret  deliberations.  The  Hlutdaw,  where  they 
met  in  public  for  judicial  and  other  business,  was  to  the  east  of  the 
platform  and  has  been  pulled  down.  Close  to  the  council-chamber  is 
a  watch-tower,  78  feet  high,  exclusive  of  its  decorative  roof,  from  which 
a  fine  view  is  obtainable.  On  the  north  side  of  the  platform  is  a  gilded 
entrance  hall  similar  to  that  on  the  south.  Both  contained  throneSj 
which  have  been  removed.  To  the  west  of  this  hall  are  the  large 
apartments  occupied  by  Sinbyumashin  ('  Lady  of  the  White  Elephant '), 
mother  of  Thibaw's  three  queens  ;  and  here  the  neglected  Supayagyi, 
by  right  the  chief  queen,  was  obliged  to  live  in  practical  confine- 
ment. Most  of  the  buildings  on  the  western  half  of  the  platform 
have  been  demolished ;  but  the  beautiful  Lily  throne-room,  where 
the  wives  of  officials  were  received  in  state  twice  a  year  by  the 
king  and  queen,  remains,  and  till  recently  was  used  as  part  of  the 
Upper  Burma  Club. 

The  most  important  Buddhist  shrine  in  Mandalay  is  the  Payagyi 
or  Arakan  pagoda,  4  miles  from  the  palace  and  2  miles  south  ot  the 
Zegyo  bazar.  Its  terraced  roof  of  gilded  stucco  is  of  recent  con- 
struction, the  original  roof  having  been  burnt  in  1884.  The  building 
was  erected  to  hold  the  great  brass  image  of  Buddha  brought  from 
Arakan  by  king  Bodawpaya  after  his  victorious  campaign  in  1784. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  cast  by  king  Sandathuriya  of  Arakan,  who 
ascended  the  throne  in  a.d.  146.  Gautama  is  seated  on  a  pedestal 
7  feet  high,  and  measures  12  feet  7  inches  from  the  platform  to  the 
tip  of  the  magaik,  or  tiara,  on  his  head.  The  image  was  dragged  over 
the  mountains  by  Burmese  soldiers,  and  was  accompanied  by  numerous 
captives  of  war,  who  afterwards  settled  in  Mandalay.  Long  galleries 
approach  the  building  from  each  side,  partly  decorated  with  paintings — 
some,  on  the  north  side,  descriptive  of  the  bringing  of  the  image  trom 
Arakan.     The  galleries  are  lined  with  stalls  on  which  gongs,  marionettes, 

K   2 


M2  MANDALAY  CITY 

and  the  usual  bazar  goods  arc  displayed,  and  are  thronged  in  the  cold 
season,  especially  during  a  festival,  with  a  gay  crowd  of  many  races. 
In  the  court  on  the  north-east  is  a  stone  inscription,  recording  the 
manner  in  which  the  image  was  brought  from  Arakan.  To  the  south- 
cast  is  a  large  tank  filled  with  turtles,  and  in  the  north-west  court  are 
two  colossal  bronze  images  of  good  execution,  but  now  dilapidated, 
also  brought  from  Arakan.  On  the  south-west  are  575  stone  inscrip- 
tions— Burmese,  Pali,  and  Talaing — the  originals  of  which  were  col- 
lected by  king  Bodawpaya  and  copied  by  his  orders.  On  the  east  bank 
of  the  Shwetachaung  Canal,  a  little  to  the  south  of  the  Zegyo  bazar,  is 
the  Setkyathiha  pagoda,  built  in  1884  over  a  brass  image  even  larger 
than  that  from  Arakan.  It  was  cast  by  order  of  king  Bagyidaw  in 
1824,  and  followed  the  court  from  Ava  to  Amarapura  and  Mandalay. 
Close  to  it  on  the  east  is  a  small  pagoda  built  on  the  site  of  her 
old  home  by  Shinbome,  a  famous  beauty  who  was  the  wife  of  five 
successive  kings. 

Across  the  Shwetachaung  is  the  Eindawya  pagoda,  built  in  1847 
by  king  Pagan  on  the  site  of  a  summer-house  used  by  him  when 
a  prince.  Being  on  a  spacious  platform,  from  which  it  rises  to  a  height 
of  114  feet,  it  is  seen  to  better  advantage  than  the  other  pagodas  in 
Mandalay.  On  the  west  side  is  the  Mahuya  Paya,  or  '  corundum  ' 
image,  of  black  stone,  brought  by  an  emissary  of  king  Bagyidaw  from 
Gaya  in    1833. 

To  the  west  of  the  fort,  between  the  roads  leading  from  the  two 
gates  on  that  side,  is  the  Shwekyimyin  pagoda,  built  in  1852  over  an 
older  one  said  to  have  been  erected  in  a.d.  1104,  and  containing 
several  images  of  great  sanctity,  in  addition  to  the  great  brazen  Buddha 
for  which  it  was  built.  One  of  these,  the  Shwelinbin,  represents 
Gautama  standing  in  royal  robes,  and  has  been  moved  from 
one  capital  to  another  since  it  was  placed  in  a  pagoda  of  the  same 
name  by  king  Narapadisithu  of  Pagan  (a.d.  1 167-1204).  The 
Anyathihadaw,  which  is  kept  in  a  vault  near  the  great  image,  has 
been  so  plastered  with  gold-leaf  by  devotees  that  it  is  now  a  mere 
shapeless  lump. 

Close  by  to  the  north  is  the  Payani  or  '  red '  pagoda,  so  named  from 
the  colour  of  one  of  its  predecessors,  built  on  the  site  of  a  shrine 
erected  in  1092.  It  is  interesting  chiefly  on  account  of  the  presence 
of  the  Naungdawand  Nyidaw  images,  dating  from  the  time  of  Anawrata, 
which  were  stolen  from  Mandalay  hill  in  the  troubles  following  the 
annexation  and,  after  being  stripped  of  the  mass  of  gold  with  which 
they  were  covered,  thrown  into  the  valley,  where  they  were  found  by 
a  monk  and  regilded  by  the  town  people. 

The  Yadanamyizu  pagoda  is  beyond  the  Shwetachaung  on  the  north 
side  of  C  Road,  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  south-west  gate.     It 


DESCRIPTION  i43 

was    built   in    1478   by  king   Maha  Thihathura,  and   is   said   to  have 
retained  its  original  shape. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  fort,  in  an  unfinished  building  at  the  foot 
of  Mandalay  hill,  is  a  Buddha  25  feet  high,  hewn  out  of  a  single  block 
of  Sagyin  marble  at  the  beginning  of  king  Mindon's  reign.  To  the 
east  of  it  is  the  Sandamani  pagoda,  containing  an  iron  image  of  Buddha 
cast  by  king  Bodawpaya. 

Farther  east  is  the  Kuthodaw,  the  most  splendid  monument  of 
king  Mindon,  consisting  of  a  pagoda  100  feet  high  surrounded  by 
729  others,  in  each  .of  which  is  a  marble  slab  inscribed  with  a  part 
of  the  Buddhist  scriptures  in  Burmese  and  Pali.  Great  care  was 
taken  to  collate  the  various  manuscripts  so  as  to  arrive  at  the  most 
correct  version,  and  the  whole  stands  as  a  complete  official  record  of 
the  sacred  writings. 

South  of  the  Kuthodaw  are  the  walls  of  a  vast  monastery  built  by 
the  same  king  and  called  the  Atumashi,  or  '  incomparable.'  These 
and  a  forest  of  blackened  pillars  are  all  that  is  left  of  the  building, 
which  was  burnt  in  1892.  Just  to  the  east  of  it  is  the  Shwegyaung, 
or  'golden  monastery,'  built  by  Mindon's  chief  queen  after  his  death 
with  the  materials  of  the  house  in  which  he  died.  The  interior  is 
a  blaze  of  gold. 

Close  to  the  east  gate  of  the  fort  is  the  Taiktaw,  a  large  monastery 
surrounded  by  others,  all  finely  carved,  which  served  as  the  residence 
of  the  Thathanabaing,  or  head  of  the  Buddhist  Church,  from  1859  to 
the  annexation.  The  Myadaung  monastery,  situated  on  A  Road,  a 
mile  to  the  south-west  of  the  fort,  is  also  profusely  carved  and  gilded, 
though  the  gilding  on  the  outside  is  now  nearly  worn  off  through 
exposure  to  the  weather.  The  builder  was  Thlbaw's  favourite  queen 
Supayalat.  The  Salin  monastery,  near  the  racecourse  to  the  north 
of  the  fort,  contains  what  is  probably  the  finest  carving  in  Burma.  It 
was  built  in  1873  by  the  Salin  princess. 

On  the  highest  point  of  Mandalay  hill  is  a  pagoda  which  once 
contained  the  Naungdaw  and  Nyidaw  images  referred  to  above. 
A  little  lower,  at  the  southern  end  of  the  ridge,  stood,  until  it  was 
burnt  in  1892,  a  great  wooden  image  called  Shweyattaw,  erected  by 
king  Mindon  on  the  foundation  of  Mandalay.  It  represented  Buddha 
pointing  to  the  palace  as  the  future  site  of  the  capital.  Preparations 
are  being  made  to  erect  a  new  figure  in  place  of  that  burnt. 

An  interesting  morning  may  be  spent  on  the  top  of  the  hill  with  a 
good  glass.  The  whole  of  Mandalay  lies  at  one's  feet,  and  every  building 
of  importance  may  be  identified.  Conspicuous  to  the  south-east  are 
the  Kuthodaw  and  the  walls  of  the  Incomparable  Monastery.  Far 
beyond  them  to  the  south,  at  the  edge  of  a  cultivated  plain,  the  white 
pagodas  on   Kyaukse  hill  may  be  seen,  backed   by  the  Shan  range. 


M4  MANDALAY  CTTY 

Maytnyo  lies  due  east,  hidden  by  several  ranges  of  hills.  On  the 
north  a  conical  hill  marks  the  marble  quarries  of  Sagyin,  and  far 
beyond  are  the  mountains  of  the  Ruby  Mines  District.  West,  across 
the  broad  Irrawaddy,  the  huge  mass  of  brickwork  erected  by  king 
Bodawpaya  at  Mingun  may  be  seen,  with  innumerable  white  pagodas 
dotted  over  the  hills  southward  to  Sagaing.  On  the  east  bank,  opposite 
Sagaing,  the  pagodas  of  the  old  city  of  Ava,  and  farther  to  the  left 
those  of  Amarapura,   rise  above  the  trees. 

Half  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  south-west  corner  of  the  fort  is  the 
main  bazar,  called  the  Zegyo.  The  buildings  of  this  huge  mart,  which 
covered  12  acres,  were  erected  under  king  Mindon,  and  utterly 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1897.  They  have  since  been  replaced  by  a 
masonry  bazar,  costing  8  lakhs,  where  almost  everything  obtainable 
in  Mandalay  may  be  bought.  The  bazar  sellers  are  mostly  women  : 
and  unmarried  Burman  girls  of  all  classes  may  be  seen  displaying 
their  good  looks  as  well  as  their  wares,  and  sharpening  their  wits  in 
competition  with  natives  of  India,  against  whom  they  can  hold  their 
own  much  better  than  their  men-folk. 

Within  the  fort  walls  are  barracks  and  officers'  quarters  for  one 
British  and  two  Native  infantry  regiments.  The  jail  is  in  the  north- 
west corner,  and  near  it  Government  House  overlooks  the  moat  from 
the  north  wall.  To  the  north  of  the  fort,  skirting  Mandalay  hill,  are 
the  Burma  Sappers'  lines,  and  quarters  for  a  mountain  battery.  To  the 
south,  outside  the  walls,  lie  the  courthouses,  municipal  office,  and 
rircuit-house  ;  and  farther  west  the  hospital,  the  rtfo£-bungalow,  and  the 
railway  station.  On  the  west,  in  the  business  quarter  of  the  city,  are 
the  post  and  telegraph  offices,  and  the  main  bazar.  There  are  twelve 
markets  besides  the  Zegyo  within  municipal  limits,  and  seventeen 
police  stations  and  outposts. 

Of  European  religious  buildings  the  chief  is  the  Roman  Catholic 
cathedral,  situated  in  the  business  quarter.  It  was  completed  in  1898, 
the  entire  cost  being  borne  by  a  wealthy  Burman  convert.  The 
Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  has  a  church  and  school, 
built  by  king  Mindon,  across  the  Shwetachaung  in  the  west ;  the 
mission  of  the  English  Wesleyans  is  south  of  the  fort,  and  that  of 
the  American  Baptists  a  mile  to  the  south-west.  The  St.  Joseph's 
Orphanage,  opened  in  1904,  gives  free  board  and  teaching  to  150 
Chinese  boys.  The  St.  John's  Leper  Asylum,  a  Roman  Catholic 
institution,  was  built  in  1902  at  a  cost  of  3  lakhs  through  the  energy 
of  the  late  Father  Wehinger.  It  contains  seven  wards  accommodating 
50  patients  each,  and  in  T904  had  323  inmates.  The  asylum  is  main- 
tained at  a  cost  of  Rs.  34,000  a  year.  Expenses  are  met  by  a  Govern- 
ment grant  of  about  Rs.  6,000  a  year,  contributions  from  municipal 
and  other   Local    funds   amounting  to  over   Rs.  10,000,  and    private 


rorr/.ATiox  i.,5 

subscriptions.  A  little  to  the  west  are  the  wards  of  the  Mission  to 
Lepers  in  the  East,  of  which  the  local  superintendent  is  at  present 
a  Wesleyan  missionary.  In  1904  there  were  138  inmates  in  this 
asylum,  besides  1 1  untainted  children  of  lepers  kept  separately.  The 
annual  cost  of  maintenance  is  Rs.  15,000,  defrayed  from  a  Government 
grant  of  Rs.  3,300,  municipal  and  Local  fund  contributions  (Rs.  4,000), 
the  mission  fund  (Rs.  2,200),  and  local  subscriptions  (Rs.  6,000).  The 
mission  has  been  at  work  in  Mandalay  since  1890.  The  city  con- 
tains over  a  hundred  Buddhist  monasteries  and  schools,  and  several 
mosques. 

The  population  of  Mandalay  in  1901  was  183,816,  a  decrease  of 
4,999  since  the  first  Census  taken  in  1891.  Of  this  number,  166,154 
persons  were  living  within  municipal  limits  and 
17,662  in  cantonments.  Half  of  the  decrease  was 
in  cantonments,  and  was  due  mainlv  to  the  reduction  of  the  garrison, 
the  falling  off  in  the  city  itself  being  little  more  than  1  per  cent.  Of 
the  people  living  within  municipal  limits,  91  per  cent,  were  returned 
as  speaking  Burmese,  4^  per  cent.  Hindustani,  less  than  1  per  cent. 
English,  and  3^  per  cent,  other  languages,  mostly  Indian.  A  large 
proportion,  however,  of  the  Burmese-speaking  people  have  Indian 
blood  in  them.  While  the  number  of  those  speaking  Indian  languages 
cannot  exceed  8  per  cent,  those  returning  themselves  as  Muham- 
madan  or  Hindu  in  religion  are  no  less  than  13  per  cent,  of  the  total 
population  :  consequently,  it  would  seem  that  at  least  5  per  cent,  of 
the  Burmese  speaking  people  must  be  partly  Indian  in  race.  The 
proportion  is  possibly  greater,  for  there  are  many  Buddhists  of  mixed 
descent.  The  Chinese  in  the  District  numbered  1,365  males  and 
211  females  in  1901,  and  probably  nearly  all  these  were  in  Mandalay 
city.  The  city  has  several  colonies  of  Manipuris  and  Hindus  from 
Manipur,  Assam,  and  Arakan.  brought  as  captives  after  the  invasions 
of  those  countries,  and  now  called  indiscriminately  Ponnas.  They 
are  all  of  the  Hindu  religion,  and  do  not  as  a  rule  intermarry  with 
Burmans,  but  their  women  wear  Burmese  dress.  Of  the  0.000  Ponnas 
enumerated  in  the  District  in  1901.  the  majority  were  residents  of  the 
citv.  Christians  numbered  2,470.  or  \\  per  cent,  of  the  total  popula- 
tion. Roman  Catholic  missionaries  have  been  established  in  Upper 
Burma  since  the  eighteenth  century  :  the  Society  for  the  Propagation 
of  the  Gospel  has  had  a  school  in  Mandalay  from  the  time  of  king 
Mindon  ;  and  the  American  Baptists  and  English  Wesleyans  also  have 
churches  and  schools.  Of  the  cantonment  population,  nearly  two- 
thirds  were  returned  as  Burmans. 

The  census  returns  show  that  unskilled  labourers  and  their  depen- 
dents in  1901  numbered  18.000,  religious  devotees  (monks,  &c.) 
11,000,     and     Government     servants,     including     the     troops,     q.ooo. 


I46  MANDALAY  CITY 

Nearly  S,ooo  persons  were  connected  with  agriculture,  and  about 
10,000  with  personal  services  of  various  kinds.  Of  the  industries, 
cotton-weaving  ranked  first,  with  close  upon  11,000  representatives. 
Tailors  and  sempstresses,  with  their  dependents,  numbered  10,000. 
Next  came  sawyers,  carters,  and  workers  or  dealers  in  the  precious 
metals,  each  with  7,000,  sandal-makers  with  6,000,  and  silk-weavers 
with  5,000.  Tanners  and  lacquerers  accounted  for  more  than  2,000, 
and  blacksmiths  for  a  similar  number. 

The  arts  and  crafts  of  Mandalay  include  nearly  everything  that  the 
Burmese   race   is   capable   of  producing.     The   use  of  machinery  is 
almost    unknown ;    and    with    the    exception    of   a 
Industries.        Drewery  belonging  to  a  European  firm,  and  a  few  rice 
and  timber-mills,  almost  all  the  industries  are  carried  on  in  the  home. 
Among  the  arts  may  be  included  hammered  silver-work,  wood-carving, 
iron-work,  painting,  and  a  kind  of  embroidery,  called   shwechido,  of 
gold  and  silver  thread  and  spangles.     The  silver-work  now  consists 
mostly  of  bowls  with  figures  in  relief.     It  is  of  unequal  merit,  but  good 
work  can  be  got  if  demanded.     The  wood-carving,  though  the  most 
national  of  all  the  arts  practised,  is  in  its  decadence.     The  work  of  the 
old  craftsmen  was  intended  for  the  open  air,  where  it  was  exposed  to 
the  elements  and  needed  to  be  effective  at  a  distance.     The  best  work 
still   shows  its  origin  in  its  bold  free  lines  and  vigour  of  execution. 
The  ironwork  chiefly  consists  of  Ms,  intended  to  ornament  the  tops 
of  pagodas.     The  painting  produced  in  the  city  is  not  of  a  high  order, 
but  the  work  on  silk  is  in  demand  among  Europeans.     The  shivechido 
work  is  the  most  characteristic  of  all.     It  is  gorgeous  and  effective, 
being  used  for  the  palls  at  the  cremation  of  monks  and  for  the  dresses 
of  royal  personages  on  the  stage ;  but  it  does  not  last  well,  nor  does  it 
lend  itself  to  fine  detail.     Equally  rich  in  effect  is  a  rough  kind  of 
gold  lacquer  interspersed  with  coloured  glass,  a  favourite  material  for 
monastic    furniture.     The   ordinary   lacquer-work    is   inferior   to   that 
of  Pagan,  and  is  used  mostly  for  platters,  the  designs  on  which  are 
effective  but  wanting  in  variety.     The  material  used  is  not  lac  but 
thitst,  the   gum   of  the  Melanorrhoea  usitata.     The   patterns   of  the 
silk  pasos  and  tameins,  including  the  beautiful  acheik  work,  are  con- 
stantly varying,  and  the  fashions  change  as  quickly  as  in  any  European 
capital.      The   making  of  brass  and  marble  images  of  Buddha  can 
hardly  be  called  an  art,  as  there  is  no  variation  in  the  type.     Brass- 
work  is  moulded  by  the  cire perdu  process.    The  figure  is  modelled  in 
wax  and  encased  in  a  shell  of  clay.     It  is  next  subjected  to  an  intense 
heat,  which  expels  the  wax.     The  molten  brass  is  then  poured  in  and 
takes  the  place  of  the  wax.     A  pure  white  marble  is  obtained  from  the 
quarries  at  Sagyin,  20  miles  to  the  north  ;  and  the  images  made  of  it, 
sometimes  of  great  size,  are  sent  all  over  Burma.     Among  the  minor 


A  DMINISTRA  TIOX  ,  4  7 

industries  of  the  city  may  be  mentioned  the  making  of  gongs,  circular 
or  three-cornered,  and  the  preparation  of  sacred  writings  with  orna- 
mental lettering  on  brass  or  lacquer. 

A  municipal  committee  was  formed  in  Mandalay  in  1887,  and  has 
members  representing  the  European,  Burmese,  Muhammadan,  Hindu, 
and  Chinese  communities.  The  principal  sources  of 
revenue  are  the  house  and  land  tax,  which  has  risen  mims  ra  10n- 
steadily  from  i-6  lakhs  in  1888-9  to  2-4  lakhs  in  1903-4,  and  market 
dues,  which  yielded  1-4  lakhs  in  1888-9,  2-7  lakhs  in  1902-3,  and 
2-1  lakhs  in  1903-4.  Of  this  amount  the  Zegyo  bazar  contributed 
1-5  lakhs  in  1902-3,  and  1-2  lakhs  in  1903-4,  the  falling  off  in  the 
latter  year  being  due  to  a  fire  in  1903.  Slaughter-houses  yielded 
Rs.  44,000  in  1903-4.  Other  sources  of  income  are  the  cart  tax  and 
toll,  which  has  increased  in  the  last  five  years  from  Rs.  23,000  to 
Rs.  31,000;  and  the  hackney-carriage  tax,  which  has  fallen  off  from 
Rs.  r  1,000  to  Rs.  9,000.  The  principal  item  of  expenditure  is  con- 
servancy, which  cost  i-i  lakhs  in  1903-4,  while  Rs.  14,000  was  received 
as  conservancy  fees.  Roads  are  a  varying  item  of  expenditure.  The 
average  for  the  past  five  years  is  Rs.  1,30,000,  besides  Rs.  26,000  for 
establishment.  The  maintenance  of  the  hospital  costs  about  Rs.  65,000 
yearly,  the  fees  received  being  about  Rs.  5,000.  About  Rs.  50,000 
a  year  is  devoted  to  education.  There  is  no  municipal  school,  but  the 
Educational  department  divides  the  grant  among  mission  and  other 
schools.  The  lighting  of  the  town  costs  Rs.  43,000,  which  amount 
is  just  covered  by  a  tax  levied  for  the  purpose.  The  expenditure  on 
general  administration  rose  from  Rs.  28,000  in  1899-1900  to  Rs.  36,000 
in  1903-4,  and  that  on  the  collection  of  taxes  from  Rs.  15,000  to 
Rs.  19,000.  The  survey  costs  about  Rs.  16,000  a  year,  and  the  fire 
brigade  Rs.  20,000.  Vaccination  and  registration  of  births  and  deaths 
each  cost  about  Rs.  4,000.  Other  items  are  Rs.  20,000  payable  to 
Government  to  defray  the  annual  cost  of  the  embankment  surround- 
ing the  city,  and  grants  of  Rs.  10,000  to  the  cantonment  fund  and 
Rs.  10,800  to  the  leper  asylums.  The  total  income  and  expenditure 
during  the  ten  years  ending  1901  averaged  5-4  lakhs.  In  1903-4  they 
were  respectively  15  lakhs  and  12  lakhs.  The  incidence  of  taxation 
in  the  city  is  Rs.  1-8-4,  or  about  2s.  per  head.  Income  tax  is  levied 
by  Government,  but  not  thatliameda,  so  that  persons  with  incomes 
of  less  than  Rs.  1,000  are  more  lightly  taxed  than  in  the  villages 
outside  municipal  limits.  The  length  of  roads  within  the  municipality 
is  117  miles,  of  which,  however,  only  5r  are  metalled.  An  electric 
tramway,  opened  in  1904,  runs  along  12  miles  of  road  ;  and  it  is  pro- 
posed to  light  the  city,  or  part  of  it,  by  electricity,  in  place  of  oil. 
Both  conservancy  and  water-supply  are  capable  of  great  improvement. 
Night-soil  is  removed  in  carts,  but  only  when  the  houseowner  chooses 


i48  M AND  ALA  Y  CITY 

to  pay  a  fee.  In  the  business  quarter,  however,  a  tax  has  been  sanc- 
tioned. The  water-supply  is  from  the  moat  and  river,  and  from  wells. 
A  scheme  for  sinking  new  wells  at  a  cost  of  3^  lakhs  is  under  con- 
sideration. The  average  death-rate  during  the  five  years  ending  1903-4 
was  38-2,  and  the  birth-rate  40-72  per  1,000.  The  hospital,  which  was 
built  in  1891,  had  2,482  in-patients  in  1903-4,  and  medicines  were 
dispensed  in  over  17,000  cases.  In  addition  to  the  hospital,  there 
is  a  dispensary  near  the  Zegyo  bazar,  at  which  a  somewhat  larger 
number  of  cases  were  attended  to. 

The  cantonment  fund  is  chiefly  maintained  by  grants-in-aid  from  the 
Government  and  the  municipality,  amounting  in  1903-4  to  Rs.  54,000. 
These  are  supplemented  by  house,  conservancy,  and  other  taxes,  yield- 
ing in  all  about  Rs.  x  6,000,  a  sum  of  Rs.  7,000  from  market  dues,  and 
other  collections  amounting  to  about  Rs.  4,000.  The  chief  items  of 
expenditure  are  conservancy  (Rs.  31,000),  police  (Rs.  17,000),  and 
hospital  (Rs.  8,000).  There  are  26  miles  of  metalled  roads  within 
cantonment  limits,  maintained  from  Imperial  funds.  The  Upper  Burma 
Volunteer  Rifles,  560  strong,  have  their  head-quarters  at  Mandalay. 

Statistics  regarding  the  educational  institutions  of  the  city  (vernacular 
and  Anglo-vernacular)  are  given  in  the  District  article.  Of  Anglo- 
vernacular  schools,  there  are  eight  secondary  and 
three  primary.  Of  these,  the  principal  are  St.  Peter's 
high  school  and  St.  Joseph's  (Roman  Catholic),  the  American  Baptist 
Mission  high  and  European  schools,  the  Royal  school  of  the  Society 
for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel,  and  the  high  school  of  the  Euro- 
pean Wesleyan  Mission.  Special  schools  include  a  survey  school  and 
a  normal  school  for  teachers. 

Mandalay  Canal. — An  irrigation  canal  in  Mandalay  District, 
Upper  Burma,  running  north  and  south,  parallel  to  the  Irrawaddy, 
and  watering  a  level  plain  in  the  centre  of  the  District,  which  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Madaya  stream,  on  the  south  by  the 
Myitnge  river,  on  the  east  by  the  Shan  Hills,  and  on  the  west  by  the 
Irrawaddy.  The  canal,  which  derives  its  water  from  the  Madaya 
stream,  is  39  miles  in  length,  has  86  miles  of  distributaries,  and  is 
capable  of  irrigating  80,000  acres  of  land.  It  was  commenced  in 
1896  and  was  opened  in  1902,  its  cost  having  been  nearly  51  lakhs. 
It  irrigated  30,000  acres  in  1903  4.  It  waters  much  the  same  country 
as  a  canal  dug  for  irrigation  during  Burmese  rule,  which,  owing  to 
faulty  alignment  and  the  inability  of  the  Burmans  to  deal  with  the 
iross-drainage  from  the  Shan  Hills  in  the  east,  failed  of  its  object. 
The  revenue  derived  from  the  work  in   1903  4  was  nearly  a  lakh. 

Mandalgarh. — Head-quarters  of  a  zila  or  district  of  the  same 
name  in  the  State  of  Udaipur,  Rajputana,  situated  in  250  13'  N. 
and    750   7'   E.,   about    100   miles  north-east  of  Udaipur  city.      Popu- 


MANDATOR  ZILA  M,, 

lation  (1901),  1,462.  To  the  north-west  is  a  fort  about  half  a  mile 
in  length,  with  a  low  rampart  wall  and  bastions  encircling  the  crest 
of  the  hill  on  which  it  stands  ;  it  is  strong  towards  the  south,  but 
assailable  from  the  hills  to  the  north.  The  fort  is  said  to  have 
been  constructed  about  the  middle  of  the  twelfth  century  by  a  chief  of 
the  Balnot  clan  of  Rajputs  (a  branch  of  the  Solankis).  According  to 
the  Musalman  historians,  it  was  taken  by  Muzaffar  Shah  of  Gujarat 
at  the  end  of  the  fourteenth  century,  and  twice  by  Mahmud  Khilji  of 
Malwa  in  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century.  Subsequently,  it  be- 
longed alternately  to  the  Ranas  of  Udaipur  and  the  Mughal  emperors. 
In  or  about  1650  Shah  Jahan  granted  it  in  jdg'ir  to  Raja  Rup  Singh 
of  Kishangarh,  who  partially  built  a  palace  there,  but  Rana  Raj  Singh 
retook  it  in  1660.  Twenty  years  later,  Aurangzeb  invaded  Mewar 
and  captured  Mandalgarh,  and  in  1700  he  made  it  over  to  Tujhar 
Singh,  the  Rathor  chief  of  Pisangan  (in  Ajmer  District),  from  whom 
it  was  recovered  by  Rana  Amar  Singh  in  1706:  and  it  has  since 
remained  in  the  uninterrupted  possession  of  his  successors.  In  the 
town  are  a  primary  school,  attended  by  about  60  boys,  and  a  dispen- 
sary. Iron  mines  are  still  worked  at  Blgod  and  other  places  in  the 
district. 

Mandapeta. — Town  in  the  Ramachandrapuram  taluk  of  Godavari 
District,  Madras,  situated  in  160  51'  N.  and  8i°  55"  E.  Population 
(1901),  8,380.     Local  affairs  are  managed  by  a  Union  panchayat. 

Mandargiri. — Hill  about  700  feet  high,  in  the  Banka  subdivision 
of  Bhagalpur  District,  Bengal,  situated  in  240  50'  X.  and  870  2'  1'.., 
about  40  miles  south  of  the  town  of  Bhagalpur.  The  hill,  which 
consists  of  a  huge  mass  of  granite  overgrown  near  the  summit  with 
low  jungle,  is  a  sacred  spot  to  the  Hindus,  who  consider  it  the 
mythological  mountain  Mandar,  which  was  used  in  churning  the 
ocean.  The  oldest  buildings  are  two  ruined  temples  near  the  top 
of  the  hill,  which  are  ascribed  by  local  tradition  to  a  legendary 
Chola  king  who  was  cured  of  his  leprosy  by  bathing  at  a  tank 
here.  There  are  two  inscriptions  and  some  rude  carvings  on  the 
rock,  and  numerous  artificial  tanks  have  been  cut  in  the  side  of  the 
hill,  some  of  which  go  back  to  the  time  of  Aditya  Sen  (a.  d.  675). 
The  largest  of  these,  known  as  the  Sltakund,  is  100  feet  long  by  500 
feet  wide  and  stands  500  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain. 

[M.  Martin,  Eastern  India,  vol.  ii,  pp.  60-3. ) 

Mandasor  Zila.— District  of  the  (Iwalior  State,  Central  India, 
lying  between  230  $7,'  and  250  19'  N.  and  740  n'  and  750  54'  E., 
with  an  area  of  1,721  square  miles.  The  population  in  iqoi  wa> 
196,434,  giving  a  density  of  T14  persons  per  square  mile.  The 
district  contains  three  towns — Mandasor  (population,  20,936),  the 
head-quarters,     Nimach     (including    the     cantonment,     21,588),    and 


ISO  MANDASOR   ZILA 

Jaw  AD  (8,005) — and  775  villages.  It  is  divided  into  seven  parganas, 
with  head-quarters  at  Mandasor,  Nlmach,  Bhaogarh,  Jawad,  Nahargarh, 
Singoli,  and  Gangapur.  The  land  revenue  is  Rs.  9,03,000.  Mandasor 
lies  on  the  Malwa  plateau,  and,  except  for  the  range  which  runs 
east  and  west  to  the  north  of  Nlmach,  consists  of  a  level  plain 
covered  with  black  cotton  soil.     Poppy  is  largely  grown. 

Mandasor  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  district  of  the  same 
name  in  Gwalior  State,  Central  India,  situated  in  240  4'  N.  and 
750  5'  E.,  on  the  bank  of  the  Siwana  (Seuna  or  Sau)  river, 
a  tributary  of  the  Sipra,  and  on  the  Ajmer-Khandwa  branch  of  the 
Rajputana-Malwa  Railway,  1,516  feet  above  sea-level.  The  popula- 
tion fell  from  25,785  in  1891  to  20,936  in  1901.  The  town  is 
a  centre  of  the  opium  trade,  one  of  the  Government  depots  at 
which  duty  is  levied  on  the  drug  being  established  here.  Another 
industry  of  some  importance  is  the  manufacture  of  coloured  cloth 
for  quilts  and  ckunris  (a  piece  of  printed  cloth  worn  by  women 
to  cover  the  arms  and  upper  part  of  the  body).  Local  affairs  are 
managed  by  a  municipality  constituted  in  1902.  The  income  amounts 
to  Rs.  1,300,  derived  mainly  from  octroi.  Besides  the  usual  offices, 
a  combined  British  post  and  telegraph  office,  a  State  post  office, 
a  police  station,  a  dispensary,  a  school,  and  an  inspection  bungalow 
are  situated  here. 

Mandasor  is  a  place  of  considerable  antiquity  and  of  historical 
and  archaeological  importance.  Its  name  in  former  days  was  Dasha- 
pura,  or  the  'township  of  ten  hamlets,'  and  it  appears  to  be  referred 
to  in  an  inscription  found  at  Nasik,  which  dates  from  early  in  the 
Christian  era.  An  inscription  near  Mandasor  refers  to  the  erection 
of  a  temple  of  the  Sun  in  437,  during  the  rule  of  Kumara  Gupta  I, 
which  was  repaired  thirty-six  years  later.  As  the  town  stands  now, 
it  is  entirely  Muhammadan,  though  Hindu  and  Jain  remains  are 
numerous.  The  fort  on  the  east  of  the  town  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  by  Ala-ud-dln  Khilji  in  the  fourteenth  century,  but  it  was 
considerably  increased  and  made  a  place  of  importance  by  Hoshang 
Shah  (1405-34)  of  Malwa.  Many  of  the  stones  used  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  wall  seem  to  have  been  brought  from  Afzalpur, 
n  miles  to  the  south.  Owing  to  its  position,  Mandasor  figures 
continually  in  history.  Near  the  big  tank,  outside  the  city,  Humayun 
surrounded  the  camp  of  Bahadur  Shah  in  T535  and  defeated  him, 
driving  him  out  of  Malwa.  When  Malwa  was  taken  by  Akbar  in 
1562,  Mandasor  became  the  head-quarters  of  the  Mandasor  sarkar 
of  the  Subah  of  Malwa.  In  the  eighteenth  century  it  fell  to  Sindhia, 
in  whose  possession  it  has  since  remained.  After  his  defeat  at 
Mehidpur,  Holkar  came  to  terms  with  the  British,  and  the  treaty 
by  which  Malwa  was  settled  was  signed  at  Mandasor  early  in  181 8. 


MANDAWAR  151 

In  the  Mutiny  of  1S57  one  Sahibzada  Flroz  Shah,  a  member  of  the 
Delhi  house,  raised  his  standard  here  and  collected  a  considerable 
following,  among  whom  were  a  large  number  of  Rohillas.  As  their 
presence  endangered  the  safety  of  Nimach,  the  Malwa  field  force 
made  a  rapid  advance  on  the  fort,  which  was  captured  on  November 
21,  1857.  A  fierce  fight  took  place  three  days  later  at  the  village 
of  Guradia,  5  miles  north-west  of  Mandasor,  in  which  the  Rohillas 
fought  bravely  ;  but  their  defeat  broke  up  the  forces  of  Flroz  Shah 
and  completely  cleared  this  part  of  the  country. 

In  Mandasor  itself  and  in  the  neighbourhood  there  are  numerous 
remains  of  archaeological  interest.  The  village  of  Sondani  (or 
Songnl),  3  miles  to  the  south-east,  contains  two  magnificent  mono- 
lithic sandstone  pillars  with  lion  and  bell  capitals.  An  inscription 
incised  on  both  of  them  records  that  Yasodharman,  king  of  Malwa, 
defeated  at  this  spot  the  Huna  adventurer  Mihirakula,  probably 
in  528.  Great  importance  attaches  to  these  for  their  use  in  settling 
the  commencement  of  the  Gupta  era. 

[J.  F.  Fleet,  Indian  Antiquary,  vol.  xv.  I 

Mandawa. — Town  in  the  Shekhawati  nizamat  of  the  State  of 
Jaipur,  Rajputana,  situated  in  280  4/  N.  and  750  9'  E.,  about  90  miles 
north-west  of  Jaipur  city.  Population  (1901),  5,165.  A  combined 
post  and  telegraph  office  and  several  schools  are  maintained  here. 

Mandawar. — Town  in  the  District  and  talis! I  of  Bijnor,  United 
Provinces,  situated  in  290  29'  N.  and  78°  8'  E.,  8  miles  north 
of  Bijnor  town.  Population  (1901),  7,210.  It  was  identified  by 
Si.  Martin  and  by  General  Cunningham  with  the  Motlpura  visited 
by  Hiuen  Tsiang  in  the  seventh  century ;  but  this  identification 
rests  entirely  on  its  distance  from  various  places,  and  no  excavations 
have  been  made1.  According  to  tradition,  some  Agarwal  Banias 
settled  here  in  the  twelfth  century,  when  they  found  the  place 
deserted.  The  town  was  captured  by  Timur  in  1399,  and  was  the 
capital  of  a  malial  or  pargana  under  Akbar.  In  1805  it  was'  pillaged 
by  Amir  Khan,  the  Pindari,  and  during  the  Mutiny  it  suffered  at  the 
hands  of  Jat  marauders.  A  mound  half  a  mile  square  rises  some 
10  feet  above  the  rest  of  the  town,  containing  large  bricks.  The 
Jama  Masjid  stands  on  this,  constructed  from  the  materials  of  a  Hindu 
temple.  North-east  of  the  town  is  another  large  mound,  and  there- 
are  two  tanks  in  the  neighbourhood.  Mandawar  is  administered 
under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about  Rs.  1,200.  There 
is  a  small  industry  in  papier  mache  ;  and  boxes,  pen-trays,  paper- 
knives,  &c,  are  made.  A  primary  school  has  126  pupils,  and  two 
aided  schools  have  85  pupils.  The  American  Methodist  Mission 
has  a  branch  here. 

1  Archaeological  Survey  Reports,  vol.  i,  p.  J4*. 


152  MANDHATA 

Mandhata. — Village  in  the  Khandwa  tahsil  of  Nimar  District, 
Central  Provinces,  situated  in  220  15'  N.  and  760  9'  E.,  32  miles  from 
Khandwa  and  7  miles  east  of  Mortakka  station  on  the  Rajputana- 
Malwa  Railway.  Population  (1901),  832.  It  stands  on  the  Narbada 
river  and  is  a  well-known  Hindu  place  of  pilgrimage,  as  it  contains  one 
of  the  twelve  celebrated  litigants  of  Siva.  The  village  of  Mandhata  is 
built  partly  upon  the  south  bank  of  the  Narbada  and  partly  upon  an 
island  in  the  river,  and  is  exceedingly  picturesque  with  rows  of  houses, 
temples,  and  shops,  and  the  Rao's  palace  conspicuous  above  the  rest, 
standing  on  terraces  scarped  out  of  the  sides  of  a  hill  on  the  island. 
Between  the  island  and  the  southern  bank  the  Narbada  forms  a  deep 
pool,  which  is  full  of  large  tame  fish.  Upon  the  summit  of  the  hill  are 
signs  of  a  once  flourishing  settlement,  in  the  shape  of  ruined  fortifica- 
tions and  temples.  The  most  interesting  is  the  temple  of  Siddhanath. 
It  stands  on  a  raised  platform,  whose  plinth  is  supported  by  elephants 
in  various  positions.  The  temple  of  Onkar  on  the  island  is  a  com- 
paratively modern  structure,  but  the  great  columns  supporting  it  have 
been  taken  from  some  older  building.  On  the  north  bank  of  the  river 
are  some  Vaishnava  and  Jain  temples.  The  Rao  of  Mandhata,  the 
hereditary  custodian  of  all  the  modern  temples,  is  a  Bhilala,  claiming 
descent  from  a  Chauhan  Rajput  who  is  said  to  have  taken  Mandhata 
from  a  Bhil  chief  in  1165.  A  large  fair  is  held  annually  in  October, 
at  which  in  former  times  devotees  of  Bhairon  threw  themselves  from 
the  cliffs  and  were  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  in  the  river.  The 
last  sacrifice  of  this  kind  was  witnessed  by  a  British  officer  in  1824. 
It  is  the  practice  at  the  fair  to  present  horses  as  offerings  at  the  shrine 
of  Siva  :  and  as  the  frugal  worshippers  are  inclined  to  consider  that  any 
horse  will  pass  muster  for  an  offering  as  long  as  it  is  alive,  it  has  come 
to  be  a  proverb,  when  describing  an  absolutely  worthless  horse,  to  say 
that  it  is  good  enough  to  be  offered  at  the  shrine  of  Mandhata. 

Mandi  State. — Native   Statu    in   the    Punjab,  under   the    political 

control  of  the  Commissioner,  Jullundur  Division,  lying  between  310  2^' 

and  320  4'  N.  and  761  40'  and  77°  22'  E.,  in  the  upper  reaches  of  the 

Beiis.     It  is  bordered  on  the  north  by  Chhota  Bangahal ;  on  the  east 

by  the  Nargu  range,  which  divides  it  from  the  Kulu  valley,  and  by 

the  Beas,  Tlrthan,  and  Bisna  streams  ;    on  the  south  it  adjoins  Suket, 

and  on  the  west  Kangra  District.     It  is  54  miles  long  and  2>2>  broad, 

with   an   area   of   1,200   square    miles   of  mountainous   country.     The 

Beas  enters  at  the  middle  of  its  eastern  border,  and 
Physical  •  .... 

as     cts  leaves  it  near  the  north-west  corner,  thus  dividing  it 

into  two  parts;  of  which  the  northern  is  the  smaller. 

This    is    trisected   by   two   parallel    ranges,   of  which    the    higher    and 

eastern,    the   Ghoghar-ki-Dhar,   is   continued    south    of   the    Beiis    and 

extends    into  the  south-west  of  the  State.     The  south-eastern  corner, 


MANDI  STATE  153 

the   Mandi  Saraj,  or  '  highland,'  is  formed  by  the  western  end  of  the 
Jalauri  range. 

The  State  lies  partly  on  roeks  belonging  to  the  central  Himalayan 
zone,  of  unknown  age,  and  partly  on  Tertiary  shales  and  sandstones. 
The  rocks  of  the  central  zone  consist  of  slates,  conglomerates,  and 
limestones,  which  have  been  referred  to  the  infra-Blaini  and  Blaini 
and  Krol  groups  of  the  Simla  area.  The  sandstones  and  shales  of 
the  sub-Himalayan  zone  belong  to  the  Sirmur  series,  of  Lower  Tertiary 
age,  and  to  the  Siwalik  series  (Upper  Tertiary).  The  most  important 
mineral  is  rock-salt,  which  appears  to  be  connected  with  the  Tertiary 
beds  \ 


Wild  flowers — such  as  the  anemone,  dog-violet,  and  pimpernel — grow 
abundantly  in  the  hills  in  March  and  April.  The  best  timber  trees  are 
the  deodar,  blue  pine,  chil  {Pi/uts  longifolid),  spruce,  silver  fir,  and  box. 
The  forests  abound  in  game,  leopards,  bears  (especially  black),  hyenas, 
barking-deer,  gum/,  and  musk  deer  being  common.  Feathered  game 
are  also  abundant,  and  fish  in  the  larger  streams. 

The  autumn  months  are  unhealthy,  except  in  the  upper  ranges,  the 
lower  valley  being  malarious.  The  temperature  is  generally  cool  even 
in  summer,  except  at  Mandi,  the  capital,  which  is  shut  in  by  hills,  and 
in  the  west  of  the  State,  which  is  only  about  2,000  feet  above  sea-level. 
The  rainfall  in  the  upper  ranges  of  the  Nargu  and  Ghoghar-ki-Dhar 
hills  is  heavy. 

Mandi  formed  part  of  Suket  State  until  in  the  reign  of  Sahu  Sen, 
the  eleventh  of  the  Chandarbansi  Rajas  of  that  kingdom,  Bahu  Sen. 


his  younger  brother,  left  Suket  and  settled  at  Mang- 


laur  in  Kulu.  His  descendant,  Karanchan,  was 
killed  in  a  battle  fought  with  the  Raja  of  Kulu,  and  his  Ra.ni,  who 
was  pregnant,  fled  to  her  father's  house  at  Seokot.  On  the  way  a  son 
was  born  to  her  under  an  oak-tree  (ban),  who  succeeded  the  Rana  of 
Seokot  under  the  title  of  Ban  Sen.  Han  Sen  enlarged  his  possessions 
and  transferred  his  capital  to  Bhin,  4  miles  above  Mandi  town  ;  and  hi> 
son,  Kalyan  Sen,  purchased  Batauhli  opposite  Mandi  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Beas.  Little  is  known  of  their  successors  until  the  time  of 
Ajbar  Sen,  who  founded  the  town  of  .Mandi  in  1527.  The  ambition 
of  a  later  chief,  Suraj  Sen,  brought  disaster  upon  the  principality. 
Having  attacked  Bangahal,  he  was  defeated  by  Man  Singh,  the  Raja's 
brother-in-law,  lost  the  salt-mines  of  Guma  and  Drang,  and  was 
compelled  to  sue  for  peace  and  pay  a  war  indemnity  :  yet  he  built  the 
strong  fort  of  Kamla  in. 1625  and  the  Damdama  palace  at  Mandi.  All 
his  eighteen  sons  having  died  in  his  lifetime,  he  had  an  image  made  ol 
silver  which  he  railed   Madhava  Rao,  and   to  it   he   bequeathed  his 

1  Medlicott,  '  The  Sub-Himalayan  Range  between  the  Ganges  and  Ravi,'  Memoirs, 

Geological  Survey  of  India,  vol.  iii,  pt.  ii. 


i54  MANDI  STATE 

kingdom  in  1648.  He  was  succeeded  in  1658  by  his  brother  Shyam 
Sangh,  who  built  the  temple  of  Shyami  Kali  on  the  Tama  ridge  in 
Mandi  town.  His  successor,  Gur  Sen,  brought  the  famous  image 
preserved  in  the  Padal  temple  from  Jagannath  ;  and  his  illegitimate  son, 
Jippu,  reorganized  the  revenue  of  the  State  on  a  system  still  in  force. 
Raja  Sidh  Sen,  who  succeeded  in  1686,  a  great  warrior  supposed  to  be 
possessed  of  miraculous  powers,  conquered  Xachan,  Hath,  and  Daled 
in  1688,  and  Dhanesgarh,  Raipur,  and  Madhopur  from  Suket  in  1690  ; 
but  he  treacherously  murdered  Pirthi  Pal,  the  Raja  of  Bangahal,  at 
Mandi.  He  adorned  his  capital  with  a  temple  of  Ganpati,  and  also 
built  the  Shivapuri  temple  at  Hatgarh  in  1705.  It  is  said  that  Guru 
Gobind  Singh  was  hospitably  entertained  by  him  at  Mandi,  an  occasion 
on  which  the  Guru  blessed  him.  Sidh  Sen  is  recorded  to  have  died  at 
the  age  of  100  in  1729.  His  grandson  and  successor,  Shamsher  Singh, 
conquered  Chuborai,  Ramgarh,  Deogarh,  Hastpur,  and  Sarni  from 
Kulu.  His  son,  Isri  Sen,  succeeded  when  only  five  years  old  ;  and 
Sansar  Chand,  the  Katoch  Raja  of  Kangra,  seized  the  opportunity  to 
invade  Mandi.  He  took  Hatli  and  Chohar,  which  he  made  over  to 
Suket  and  Kulu  respectively,  and  Anantpur,  which  he  retained.  Isri 
Sen  was  kept  a  prisoner  in  Kangra  fort,  and  his  ministers  paid  tribute 
to  the  conqueror.  In  1805  Sansar  Chand  attacked  Rahlur,  and  its 
Raja  invoked  the  aid  of  the  Gurkhas,  who  had  already  overrun  the 
country  from  the  Gogra  to  the  Sutlej.  The  allies  defeated  the  Katoch 
Raja  at  Mahal  Mori  in  1806;  and  Isri  Sen,  released  from  captivity, 
paid  homage  to  the  Gurkha  Amar  Singh  and  was  restored  to  his 
kingdom.  But  in  1809  the  Sikhs,  under  Ranjit  Singh,  drove  the 
Gurkhas  back  across  the  Sutlej,  and  in  18 10  Desa  Singh  Majithia  was 
appointed  nazim  of  all  the  Hill  States  including  Mandi.  Its  tribute, 
at  first  Rs.  30,000,  was  raised  to  a  lakh  in  18 15,  reduced  again  to 
Rs.  50,000  a  year  or  two  later,  and  fixed  at  Rs.  75,000,  in  addition  to 
a  succession  fine  of  one  lakh,  on  the  accession  of  Zalim  Sen  in  1826. 
On  the  death  of  Ranjit  Singh  in  1839,  the  Sikh  government  determined 
to  complete  the  reduction  of  Mandi,  as  a  stepping-stone  to  the  projected 
conquest  of  Chinese  Tartary.  In  1840  General  Ventura  occupied 
Mandi,  and  Kamlagarh  capitulated  after  a  siege  of  two  months.  The 
Raja,  Balbir  Singh,  was  sent  a  prisoner  to  Amritsar,  but  was  released 
in  1 84 1  by  Maharaja  Sher  Singh  and  returned  to  Mandi.  The 
oppression  of  the  Sikhs  drove  him  into  negotiations  with  the  British  ; 
and  after  the  battle  of  Sobraon  his  proffered  allegiance  was  accepted, 
and  the  relations  between  the  Raja  and  the  paramount  power  were 
defined  in  a  sanad  dated  October  24,  1846.  By  that  date  the  Sikh 
garrisons  had  already  been  expelled  by  the  unaided  efforts  of  the 
Raja  and  his  subjects.  Balbir  Singh  died  in  1851,  and  was  succeeded 
by  his  four-year-old  son,  Bije  Sen.     A  Council  of  Regency  was  formed 


AGRICULTURE  ,55 

under  the  presidency  of  Wazir  Gusaon.  Dissensions  among  the 
members  compelled  Government  in  1852  to  entrust  all  the  real  power 
to  the  Wazir,  and  during  the  remaining  years  of  the  Raja's  minority 
the  State  was  well  governed.  The  training  of  the  Raja  was,  however, 
neglected  until  too  late,  and  his  accession  to  the  throne  in  1866  was 
followed  by  confusion  in  the  State.  During  the  rest  of  his  long  reign 
the  administration  was  carried  on  only  with  the  perpetual  assistance 
and  advice  of  the  British  Government.  Bije  Sen  died  in  1902,  and 
his  illegitimate  son,  Bhawani  Sen,  was  recognized  as  his  successor. 
He  was  educated  at  the  Aitchison  College,  Lahore,  and  for  the  first 
two  years  after  his  installation  in  1903  had  the  assistance  of  an  officer 
of  the  Indian  Civil  Service  as  Superintendent  of  the  State.  The  Raja 
of  Mandl  is  entitled  to  a  salute  of  1 1  guns. 

Besides  MandI  Town,  its  capital,  the  State  contains  146  villages. 
The  population  at  the  last  three  enumerations  was  :  (1881)  147,017, 
(1 891)  166,923,  and  (1901)  174,045.  The  State  is 
divided  into  24  waziris,  and  each  of  these  was 
formerly  divided  into  mahrais  or  groups  of  hamlets  {gmon  or  basi\ 
with  head-quarters  at  a  garh  or  fort  in  which  the  revenue  in  kind  was 
stored.  Hindus  number  170,304,  or  about  98  per  cent,  of  the 
population;  and  there  are  3,187  Muhammadans  and  510  Buddhists. 
The  State  is  sparsely  populated.  The  language  is  Mandiali,  but  Saraj 
has  a  distinct  dialect  called  Paharl.  By  far  the  most  numerous  caste 
is  that  of  the  Kanets,  who  number  82,000,  and  are  essentially  agricul- 
turists. After  them  come  the  Brahmans  (19,000),  Dumnas  (Dums  or 
low-castes,  14,000),  Kolls  (14,000),  and  Chamars  (leather-workers, 
11,000).  The  Rajputs  (6,000)  form  a  territorial  aristocracy  under  the 
Rnja.  Of  the  total  population,  84  per  cent,  live  by  agriculture,  supple- 
mented by  pasture  and  rude  home  industries.  The  industrial  castes 
are  few,  and  numerically  small. 

The  principal  autumn  crops  are  rice,  maize,  mash  (Phaseolus 
radiatus),  millets,  and  potatoes ;  the  principal  spring  crops  arc  wheat, 
barley,  tobacco,  and  sugar-cane.     The   Raja  is  the  . 

sole  proprietor  of  all  the  land  in  the  State.  Lands 
are  leased  to  malguzdrs  by  written  leases,  which  specify  the  revenue 
and  beg&r  (if  any)  due  on  the  holding  and  its  extent,  and  stipulate 
that  an  enhanced  rate  is  to  be  paid  if  additional  land  is  brought  under 
cultivation.  On  the  other  hand,  a  mdlguzdr  can  be  ejected  only  for 
disloyalty  or  failure  to  pay  rent,  and  he  is  forbidden  to  sell  or 
mortgage  his  holding,  though  he  may  transfer  its  possession  for 
.i  period  not  exceeding  fifteen  years.  Under  the  malguzdrs  tenants 
cultivate,  usually  on  payment  of  half  the  produce. 

The  area  for  which  particulars  are  on  record  is  1,130  square  miles, 
of  which    550   square    miles,  or   48    per   cent.,    are    forests;    112,  or 

VOL.  XVII.  1. 


156  MANDl  STATE 

10  per  cent.,  not  available  for  cultivation  ;  68,  or  6  per  cent.,  cultivable 
waste  other  than  fallows  ;  and  400  square  miles,  or  36  per  cent.,  are 
cultivated.  The  staple  food-crops  are  rice,  maize,  pulses,  millets,  and 
potatoes,  the  last  introduced  some  years  ago.  Cotton  and  turmeric  are 
also  grown.  In  spring,  wheat,  barley,  and  gram  are  the  main  crops  in 
the  lowlands.  Poppy  is  grown  in  the  highlands,  and  inferior  sugar- 
cane in  the  Ballh  valley.  Mandl  opium,  like  that  made  in  Kashmir 
and  the  Simla  Hill  States,  pays  a  duty  of  Rs.  2  per  seer  on  import 
into  the  Punjab.  Tea,  introduced  in  1865,  is  now  grown  in  two  State 
gardens,  which  produce  about  60,000  lb.  per  annum. 

The  cattle,  though  small,  arc  fairly  strong.  Buffaloes  are  kept 
only  by  the  Gujars,  who  are  mostly  immigrants  from  Jammu,  and 
by  a  few  landholders.  Ponies  and  mules  are  scarce  ;  but  an  attempt 
is  being  made  to  encourage  mule-breeding,  and  two  Syrian  donkeys 
have  been  imported  by  the  State.  Sheep  are  generally  kept,  and 
blankets  and  clothing  made  of  the  wool,  while  goats  are  still  more 
numerous. 

Artificial  irrigation  is  carried  on  by  means  of  kuhh  (cuts)  from  the 
hill  streams.  The  channels  are  made  by  private  enterprise,  and  their 
management  rests  entirely  with  the  people. 

Nearly  three-fifths  of  the  State  is  occupied  by  forest  and  grazing 
lands.  The  southern  hills  bordering  on  Kulu  abound  in  deodar  and 
blue  pine,  while  spruce  and  chll  trees  are  found  on 
the  lower  hills  in  the  Beas  valley.  Boxwood  and 
chestnut  occur  in  some  localities,  and  the  common  Himalayan  oak 
grows  nearly  everywhere.  The  tun  (Cedrela  Toond)  and  khirk  (Celtis) 
are  found  in  numbers  near  villages.  A  forest  department  is  now 
being  organized.    The  revenue  from  forests  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  15,000. 

The  Ghoghar-ki-Dhar  is  rich  in  minerals.  Iron  is  found  through- 
out the  Saraj  zvaz/ri  in  inexhaustible  quantities,  and  is  collected 
after  rain,  when  the  veins  are  exposed  and  the 
minerals  schist  is  soft.     Owing,  however,  to  the  lack  of  coal, 

it  can  only  be  smelted  with  charcoal,  and  the  out- 
turn is  small  and  unprofitable.  Salt  is  worked  at  Guma  and  Drang, 
being  quarried  from  shallow  open  cuttings.  It  is  of  inferior  quality, 
but  is  in  demand  for  the  use  of  cattle,  and  a  considerable  quantity 
is  exported  to  Kangra  District  and  the  neighbouring  Hill  States. 
Its  export  into  British  territory  is  permitted  under  an  arrangement 
between  the  Government  of  India  and  the  Raja,  by  which  the  former 
receives  two-thirds  and  the  latter  one-third  of  the  duty  levied  on  the 
total  quantity  of  salt  sold  at  the  mines,  the  Raja  being  authorized 
to  charge,  in  addition  to  the  duty  of  4^  annas  per  maund,  io|  annas 
as  the  price  of  the  salt.  The  revenue  derived  by  the  State  from 
this  source  in  1903-4,  when  the  duty  was  6  annas  a  maund,  amounted 


ADMINISTRATION  157 

to  Rs.  96,693,  while  the  British  Government's  share  of  the  duty  was 

Rs.  31,639. 

With  the  exception  of  the  ordinary  manufactures  of  iron-ware,  brass 

utensils,  woodwork,  dyeing,  and  weaving,  there  are  no  industries ;  and 

the  trade  of  the  State  is  confined  to  the  export  of 

rice,  wheat,  potatoes,  tea,  salt,  and  ghi,  with  timber  ra  e.  a° 

'  '  ^  .  ,  communications, 

and  other  forest  produce.     Piece-goods,  utensils,  and 

ornaments  are  imported  largely,  with  sugar,  oil,  and  Khewra  salt  in 

small  quantities. 

The  principal  route  to  Mandi  town  is  the  road  from  Pathankot 
on  the  North-Western  Railway.  This  is  metalled  from  Pathankot  to 
Baijnath  (82  miles)  in  Kangra  District,  and  the  State  has  undertaken 
to  metal  the  remaining  47  miles  in  Mandi  territory.  The  Beas  is 
crossed  at  Mandi  town  by  the  Empress  Bridge,  built  by  the  State 
in  1878  at  a  cost  of  a  lakh.  Prom  Mandi  two  roads  lead  into  Kulu  : 
one,  the  summer  route,  over  the  Bhabu  pass  (9,480  feet),  and  the 
other  over  the  Dulchi  pass.  Minor  roads,  open  all  the  year  round, 
connect  Mandi  town  with  Jullundur  (124  miles),  Doraha  (via  Rupar, 
106  miles),  and  Simla  (via  Suket,  88  miles). 

The   Raja  is  assisted   in   the   administration    of  the   State    by  the 

Wazlr,  who  is   entrusted   with  very  extensive  powers,  both  executive 

and   judicial.      As   a   judicial    officer,   his    decisions 

,  .  ,   .      ,,      t,_._  ,  .  Administration, 

are   subject  to  appeal  to  the  Raja  ;    and   sentences 

of  death  passed  by  him  are  submitted  to  the  Raja  for  concurrence, 
and  further  require  confirmation  by  the  Commissioner  of  the  Jullundur 
Division,  who  is  the  Political  Agent  to  the  Lieutenant-Governor  for 
the  State.  As  a  revenue  officer,  the  Wazir  controls  the  two  tahsllddrs, 
whose  judicial  decisions  are  also  subject  to  appeal  to  him.  Though 
there  are  only  two  officers  with  the  rank  of  talisilddr,  the  State  is 
divided  into  four  tahsils,  Xagar-Mandi,  Chichot,  Gopalpur,  and 
Harabagh,  which  comprise  8,  3,  3,  and  10  of  the  old  waziris  re- 
spectively. 

The  total  revenue  in  1903-4  was  4-4  lakhs,  of  which  23  lakhs 
was  land  revenue.  The  tribute  payable  to  the  British  Government 
is  one  lakh. 

The  State  is  divided  into  eight  police  circles,  each  under  a  deputy- 
inspector  {thanadar),  and  there  are  137  constables.  The  whole  force 
is  under  an  Inspector.  The  jail  at  Mandi  town  has  accommodation 
for  50  prisoners,  and  there  is  a  lock-up  at  each  police  station.  The 
military  forces  consist  of  20  cavalry  and  152  infantry,  including 
gunners  and  police,  and  2  serviceable  guns. 

Mandi  stands  low  among  the  Districts  and  States  of  the  Punjab 
as  regards  the  literacy  of  its  population,  only  2-4  per  cent,  oi  the 
total   (4-6    males    and   01    females)   being  able   to   read    and   write   in 

l  2 


158  MANDI  STATE 

1901.  The  number  of  pupils  under  instruction  was  121  in  1880 -1, 
138  in  1890-1,  201  in  1900-1,  and  180  in  1903-4.  In  the  last 
year  there  were  eight  schools. 

The  only  hospital  is  the  King  Edward  VII  Hospital  at  Mandi 
town,  built  in  1902,  with  accommodation  for  12  in-patients.  It  is  in 
charge  of  an  Assistant  Surgeon;  and  25,154  cases,  including  1,777 
in-patients,  were  treated  at  it  in  1904,  and  306  operations  performed. 
The  expenditure  in  that  year  was  Rs.  3,615,  all  from  State  funds. 
Vaccination  is  becoming  fairly  popular,  and  since  1902  the  State 
has  entertained  a  vaccinator  of  its  own. 

[State  Gazetteer  (in  press);  L.  H.  Griffin,  The  Rajas  of  the  Punjab 
(second  edition,  1873).] 

Mandi  Town.  —Capital  of  the  Mandi  State,  Punjab,  situated  in 
310  43'  N.  and  760  58'  E.,  on  the  Beas,  131  miles  from  Pathankot  and 
88  from  Simla.  Population  (1901),  8,144.  Founded  in  1527  by  Ajbar 
Sen,  Raja  of  Mandi,  the  town  contains  several  temples  and  other 
buildings  of  interest.  These  include  the  Chauntra  or  court  where  the 
Chauntra  Wazir  or  prime  minister  is  installed,  and  the  Damdama 
palace,  built  in  the  seventeenth  century.  The  Beas,  which  passes 
through  the  town,  is  spanned  by  the  handsome  iron  Empress  Bridge, 
and  the  Suket  stream,  which  joins  that  river  below  the  town,  by  the 
Fitzpatrick  Bridge.  The  town  possesses  an  Anglo-vernacular  middle 
school  and  a  hospital.  It  has  a  considerable  trade,  being  one  of  the 
chief  marts  for  commerce  with  Ladakh  and  Yarkand. 

Mandla  District.  -District  in  the  Jubbulpore  Division  of  the 
Central  Provinces,  lying  between  220  12'  and  230  23'  N.  and  79°  58' 
and  8ic  45'  E.,  with  an  area  of  5,054  square  miles.  Mandla  is  the 
most  easterly  of  the  Satpura  plateau  Districts,  and  occupies  a  stretch 
of  wild,  hilly  country  forming  part  of  the  main  eastern  range  of  the 
Satpura  Hills,  and  culminating  in  the  plateau  of  Amarkantak  just 
beyond  the  border  in  Rewah.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north-west  by 
Jubbulpore  District  ;  on  the  north-east  by  the  State  of  Rewah;  on  the 
south  and  south-west  by  Balaghat  and  Seoni ;  and  on  the  south-east  by 
Bilaspur  District  and  the  State  of  Kawardha.  The  Narbada  river, 
rising  at  Amarkantak,  flows  first  to  the  north-west, 
aspects  separating  Mandla  from    Rewah,   and  then  turning 

to  the  west  crosses  the  District  and  curves  tor- 
tuously through  the  central  range  of  hills.  When  rather  more  than 
half-way  across,  it  makes  a  sudden  bend  to  the  south,  thrown  back  by 
a  long  spur  running  out  from  the  central  range  as  far  as  Mandla  town, 
and  after  almost  enclosing  the  town  in  a  loop,  again  turns  and  flows 
north  and  north-west  to  Jubbulpore,  bounding  the  District  for  some 
distance  on  its  western  border.  The  Narbada  is  the  centre  of  the 
drainage  system,  and  during  its  passage  through  the  District  receives 


MANDLA   DISTRICT  159 

tin-  waters  of  numerous  tributary  streams  from  the  south  and  north. 
The  larger  and  richer  portion  of  Mandld  lies  south  of  the  Narbada,  and 
consists  of  a  succession  of  hill  ranges  running  down  to  the  river,  and 
separated  by  the  valleys  of  a  number  of  its  affluents.  The  principal  of 
these  are  the  valley  of  the  Banjar  on  the  west,  those  of  the  Burhner 
and  its  tributaries  in  the  centre,  and  those  of  the  Kharmer  and 
a  number  of  smaller  streams  to  the  east.  The  valley  of  the  Banjar 
contains  the  best  cultivated  tract  in  the  District,  called  the  Haveli, 
which  extends  on  both  sides  of  the  river  for  some  miles  south  of  its 
junction  with  the  Narbada  at  Mandla.  South  of  the  Haveli,  the  Banjar 
valley  is  covered  with  forest.  This  is  the  lowest  part  of  the  District, 
and  has  an  elevation  of  about  1,500  feet.  East  of  the  Banjar  runs 
a  lofty  range  of  hills  approaching  the  Narbada  at  Ramnagar,  and 
separating  the  valley  or  plateau  of  the  Banjar  from  that  of  the  Halon 
and  Burhner,  which  is  500  feet  higher.  To  the  north  this  plateau  is 
much  cut  up  by  hills,  with  small  and  fertile  valleys  lying  between 
them  ;  but  in  the  south  there  are  large  expanses  of  good  black  soil, 
watered  by  perennial  streams,  and  covered  over  large  areas  with  mag- 
nificent sal  forests  (S/io/ra  robusta).  Still  farther  east  lies  the  third 
plateau  of  Raigarh,  at  an  elevation  of  about  2,700  feet.  This  consists 
for  the  most  part  of  an  open  cultivable  plain,  but  is  very  sparsely 
populated  and  covered  all  through  the  hot  season  with  an  abundance 
of  thick  green  grass,  which  makes  it  a  well-known  grazing  ground. 
The  rivers,  even  in  the  hottest  months,  never  quite  dry  up  ;  and  the 
numerous  natural  springs  render  wells  unnecessary.  The  hills  here 
are  fiat-topped,  sometimes  forming  small  plateaux  of  a  few  square  miles 
in  extent.  Amarkantak,  across  the  border,  which  is  the  most  impor- 
tant of  these,  has  an  elevation  of  3,400  feet,  while  Chauradadar  within 
the  District  is  of  about  the  same  height.  North  of  the  Narbada  the 
hills  become  more  rugged  and  inaccessible,  and  extend  over  most  of 
the  country.  The  valleys  are  small  and  scattered,  though  some  of 
them  are  extremely  fertile. 

The  geology  of  Mandla  presents  but  little  variety,  as  except  on  the 
southern  and  eastern  borders  nearly  the  whole  surface  is  covered  with 
trap.  In  the  south,  the  formation  of  the  tract  on  both  sides  of  the 
Banjar  to  within  a  short  distance  of  its  junction  with  the  Narbada 
consists  of  crystalline  rocks ;  but  they  are  not  exposed  over  any  wide 
area.  East  of  the  Banjar  valley,  though  granite,  syenite,  and  limestone 
frequently  appear  on  the  banks  of  streams  and  form  the  sides  of  hills, 
yet  almost  everywhere,  even  on  the  tops  of  the  highest  peaks,  trap  i-- 
the  uppermost  rock,  and  sometimes  the  trap  itself  is  covered  by 
laterite. 

Sal  (Shorea  robusia)  is  the  most  important  timber  tree  of  the  Dis- 
trict, and  occupies  the  higher  hill-sides.    The  forests  on  lower  levels  are 


i6o  M AND  LA  DISTRICT 

of  the  mixed  type  common  in  the  Central  Provinces,  teak  and  bamboos 
being  the  most  important  trees.  Other  common  trees  are  harra 
{Terminalia  Chebula),  saj  {Terminalia  tomentosa),  tendu  (Diospyros 
tomentosa),  kusumb  {Schleichera  trijuga),  haldu  (Adina  cordifo/ia), 
and  dhaura  (Anogeissus  latifolid). 

Wild  animals  are  still  plentiful  in  most  of  the  District  forests,  espe- 
cially in  the  central  and  southern  regions.  Towards  the  east  they  have 
been  almost  exterminated  by  the  snares  and  poisoned  arrows  of  the 
Baigas.  Bison  are  found  in  most  of  the  forests,  and  these  animals  are 
now  being  carefully  preserved ;  but  they  are  nowhere  very  numerous, 
as  they  appear  to  suffer  periodically  from  epidemics  of  cow-pox,  with 
which  they  are  doubtless  infected  by  tame  cattle  grazing  in  the  forests. 
The  wild  buffalo  is  not  now  met  with,  though  it  must  at  one  time  have 
been  common,  and  it  has  been  shot  in  the  Phen  valley  within  the  last 
fifteen  or  twenty  years.  The  deer  tribe  is  well  represented.  The 
barasingha  or  swamp  deer  is  found  in  large  herds  in  the  sal  forests. 
Sambar,  spotted,  and  barking-deer  are  common,  and  the  mouse  deer 
is  also  found.  Nilgai  and  antelope  are  frequently  seen  in  the  open 
plains,  but  chinkara  or  'ravine  deer'  are  somewhat  rare.  Tigers, 
leopards,  and  bears  are  found  in  all  the  forests.  The  numerous 
packs  of  wild  dogs  are  very  destructive  to  game.  Partridges  and 
quail  are  fairly  common,  but  water-birds  are  not  numerous,  as  there 
are  very  few  tanks.  Mahseer  and  other  kinds  of  fish  are  found  in  the 
Narbada,  but  seldom  attain  to  full  size. 

The  climate  is  cool  and  pleasant.  December  and  January  are  the 
coldest  months,  and  occasionally  frosts  occur.  On  the  higher  plateaux 
ice  is  by  no  means  rare.  Malarial  fever  of  a  somewhat  virulent  type  is 
prevalent  during  the  monsoon  and  autumn  months. 

The  annual  rainfall  averages  52  inches.  Hailstorms  not  infrequently 
occur  in  the  winter  months  and  do  serious  damage  to  the  crops,  and 
thunderstorms  are  common  in  the  hot  season. 

The  Gond  Rajput  dynasty  of  Garha-Mandla  commenced,  according 
to  an  inscription  in  the  palace  of  Ramnagar,  in  the  fifth  century,  with 
the  accession  of  Jadho  Rai,  a  Rajput  adventurer  who 
entered  the  service  of  an  old  Gond  king,  married 
his  daughter,  and  succeeded  him  on  the  throne.  Cunningham  places 
the  date  two  centuries  later,  in  664.  The  original  seat  of  the  dynasty 
is  supposed  to  have  been  Garha  near  Jubbulpore,  but  this  theory  is 
discredited  by  the  fact  that  the  Kalachuri  Rajput  dynasty  was  in 
power  there  as  late  as  the  twelfth  century.  In  any  case  the  Garha- 
Mandla  kingdom  was  a  petty  local  chiefship  until  the  accession  of 
Sangram  Sah,  the  forty-seventh  king,  in  1480.  This  prince  extended 
his  dominions  over  the  Narbada  valley,  and  possibly  Bhopal,  Saugor, 
and  Dam  oh,  and  most  of  the  Satpura  hill  country,  and  left  fifty-two 


HISTORY  i6r 

forts  or  districts  to  his  son.  The  control  of  the  Garha-Mandla  kings 
over  their  extended  principality  was,  however,  short-lived,  for  in  1564 
Asaf  Khan,  the  imperial  viceroy,  invaded  their  territories.  The  queen 
Durgavati,  then  acting  as  regent  for  her  infant  son,  met  him  near  the 
fort  of  Singorgarh  in  Damoh  ;  but  being  defeated,  she  retired  past 
Garha  towards  Mandla,  and  took  up  a  strong  position  in  a  narrow- 
defile.  Here,  mounted  on  an  elephant,  she  bravely  headed  her  troops 
in  the  defence  of  the  pass,  and  notwithstanding  that  she  had  received 
an  arrow-wound  in  her  eye  refused  to  retire.  But  by  an  extraordinary 
coincidence  the  river  in  the  rear  of  her  position,  which  had  been  nearly 
dry  a  few  hours  before  the  action  commenced,  began  suddenly  to  rise 
and  soon  became  unfordable.  Finding  her  plan  of  retreat  thus  frus- 
trated, and  seeing  her  troops  give  way,  the  queen  snatched  a  dagger 
from  her  elephant-driver  and  plunged  it  into  her  breast.  Asaf  Khan 
acquired  an  immense  booty,  including,  it  is  said,  more  than  a  thousand 
elephants.  From  this  time  the  fortunes  of  the  Mandla  kingdom  rapidly 
declined.  The  districts  afterwards  formed  into  the  State  of  Bhopal 
were  ceded  to  the  emperor  Akbar,  to  obtain  his  recognition  of  the  next 
Raja,  Chandra  Sah.  In  the  time  of  Chandra  Sah's  grandson,  Prem 
Narayan,  the  Bundelas  invaded  Narsinghpur  and  stormed  the  castle 
of  Chauragarh.  During  the  succeeding  reigns  family  quarrels  led  the 
rival  parties  to  solicit  foreign  intervention  in  support  of  their  preten- 
sions, and  for  this  a  price  had  always  to  be  paid.  Part  of  Saugor  was 
ceded  to  the  Mughal  emperor,  the  south  of  Saugor  and  Damoh  to 
Chhatarsal  Raja  of  Panna,  and  Seonl  to  the  Gond  Raja  of  Deogarh. 
In  1742  the  Peshwa  invaded  Mandla,  and  this  was  followed  by  the 
exaction  of  chauth.  The  Bhonslas  of  Nagpur  annexed  the  territories 
now  constituting  Balaghat  and  part  of  Bhandara.  Finally,  in  1781, 
the  last  king  of  the  Gond- Rajput  line  was  deposed,  and  Mandla  was 
annexed  to  the  Maratha  government  of  Saugor,  then  under  the  control 
of  the  Peshwa.  At  some  period  of  the  Gond  kingdom  the  District 
must  have  been  comparatively  well  populated,  as  numerous  remains 
of  villages  can  be  observed  in  places  now  covered  by  forest ;  but  one 
of  the  Saugor  rulers,  Vasudeo  Pandit,  is  said  to  have  extorted  several 
lakhs  of  rupees  from  the  people  in  eighteen  months  by  unbridled 
oppression,  and  to  have  left  it  ruined  and  depopulated.  In  1799 
Mandla  was  appropriated  by  the  Bhonsla  Rajas  of  Nagpur,  in  accor- 
dance with  a  treaty  concluded  some  years  previously  with  the  Peshwa  ; 
and  during  the  period  of  eighteen  years  which  followed,  the  District 
was  repeatedly  overrun  by  the  Pindaris,  who,  however,  did  not  succeed 
in  taking  the  town  of  Mandla.  In  1818  Mandla  became  British  terri- 
tory;  and  as  the  Maratha  garrison  in  the  fort  refused  to  surrender, 
a  force  under  General  Marshall  took  it  by  assault.  The  peace  of  the 
District   was   not    subsequently   disturbed,   except   for  a    brief  period 


if)  2 


M  AND  LA    DISTRICT 


during  the  Mutiny  of  1S57,  when  the  chiefs  of  Ramgarh,  Shahpura, 
and  Sohagpur  joined  the  mutineers,  taking  with  them  their  Gond 
retainers,  who,  though  not  really  disaffected,  followed  their  chiefs  with 
their  usual  unquestioning  faithfulness.  Order  was  restored  early  in 
1858,  and  the  estates  of  Ramgarh  and  Shahpura  were  subsequently 
confiscated,  while  Sohagpur  was  made  over  to  Rewah.  The  last  repre- 
sentative of  the  Gond  Rajput  kings,  Shankar  Sah,  had  retired  to  Jub- 
bulpore,  where  he  held  an  estate  of  a  few  villages.  During  the  Mutiny 
he  attempted  to  raise  a  party  in  Jubbulpore,  then  in  a  very  disturbed 
condition,  with  a  view  to  rebellion.  On  being  captured  and  convicted, 
he  and  his  son  were  blown  away  from  guns. 

The  District  contains  few  notable  buildings.  Deogaon,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Narbada  and  Burhner,  20  miles  north-east  of  Mandla, 
has  an  old  temple.  At  Kukarramath,  12  miles  from  Dindorl,  are  the 
remains  of  numerous  temples,  most  of  which  have  been  excavated  and 
carried  away  to  make  the  buildings  at  Dindorl.  The  palace  of  the 
Gond  Rajas  of  Garha-Mandla,  built  in  1663,  is  situated  at  Ramnagar, 
about  10  miles  east  of  Mandla  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Narbada,  and 
is  in  a  fairly  good  state  of  preservation  but  of  little  architectural  merit. 
There  are  numerous  other  ruins,  as  Ramnagar  remained  the  seat  of 
government  for  eight  reigns. 

The  population  of  the  District  in  the  last  three  years  of  census  was 
as  follows:  (1881)  300,659;  (1891)  339,341;  (1901)  Zlh2S°-  The 
increase  between  1881  and  1891,  of  13  per  cent., 
was  attributed  partly  to  the  increased  accuracy  of  the 
Census.  During  the  last  decade  the  decrease  was  d\  per  cent.,  chiefly 
in  the  Mandla  tahsil.  The  District  was  severely  affected  by  famine  in 
1897,  and  there  was  great  mortality  among  the  forest  tribes.  The 
figures  of  population  given  below  have  been  adjusted  on  account  of 
transfers  of  territory  since  the  Census  of  1901  : — 


Population. 


Tahsil. 


Mandla 
Dindorl 


District  total 


V 

Number  of 

03 

3 

Sf  oi 

">    V 

vt 

c  — 

c 

03 

jU 

H 

;^ 

< 

^» 

2,53° 

I 

98O 

2-524 

1 

854 

5,054 

1,834 

3 
Q. 
O 
Hi 


178,771 
139,629 


318,400 


1* 

V      . 

J! 

™    U 

■S  03 
O    53" 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 
population  be- 
tween 1 89 1 
and  1901. 

Number  of 

persons  able  to 

read  and 

write. 

70 
55 

-8.4 
-  3-9 

4,154 
I,8l2 

63 

-6.5 

5,966 

In  1904  an  area  of  15  square  miles  with  11  villages  containing 
1,150  persons  was  transferred  from  Balaghat  to  Mandla,  and  5  square 
miles  of  Government  forest  from  Mandla  to  Balaghat.  The  corrected 
District  totals   of  area  and    population    are   5,054   square   miles   and 


POPULATION  T63 

318,400  persons.  The  density  of  population  is  63  persons  per  square 
mile,  which  is  smaller  than  that  of  any  District  in  the  Province  with 
the  exception  of  Chanda.  The  District  contains  one  town,  Mandla, 
the  head-quarters ;  and  1,834  inhabited  villages.  The  villages  are 
usually  very  small,  the  average  number  of  persons  to  each  being  only 
174.  The  figures  of  religion  show  that  121,000  persons,  or  38  per 
cent,  of  the  population,  are  Hindus,  and  191,000,  or  60  per  cent., 
Animists.  Practically  all  the  forest  tribes  are  returned  as  still  prof 
ing  their  own  religion.  Muhammadans  number  only  5,000.  Nearly 
75  per  cent,  of  the  population  speak  the  Bagheli  dialect  of  Eastern 
Hindi,  and  nearly  25  per  cent.  Gondi.  The  former  dialect  is  spoken 
in  the  Central  Provinces  only  in  Jubbulpore  and  Mandla,  and 
resembles  Chhattisgarhl  in  many  respects.  About  half  of  the  Gonds 
speak  their  own  language  and  the  other  half  a  corrupt  Hindi,  which 
is  also  the  language  of  the  Baigas  and  Kols. 

The  principal  landholding  castes  are  Brahmans  (7,000),  Kalars, 
Gonds,  Lodhis  (5,000),  Banias,  and  Kayasths.  Next  to  Gonds,  the 
most  important  castes  numerically  are  Ahlrs  (23,000),  Pankas  (14,000), 
and  Telis  (10,000).  The  Kalars  were  money-lenders  to  the  Gonds 
before  the  advent  of  the  Bania.  The  Lodhis  were  formerly  the  chief 
landholding  caste  and  possessed  several  fine  estates.  The  Gonds 
number  160,000,  or  just  half  of  the  population.  They  are  lazy  culti- 
vators, and  favour  the  small  millets  kodon  and  ki/tkt,  which  in  new  soil 
yield  a  large  return  with  a  minimum  of  exertion.  The  Baigas  number 
about  14,000.  They  are  probably  the  first  residents  of  the  District; 
and  a  Baiga  is  always  the  village  priest  and  magician,  on  account  of 
the  more  intimate  and  long-standing  acquaintance  he  is  supposed  to 
possess  with  the  local  deities.  The  Baigas  have  always  practised  bewar 
or  shifting  cultivation  in  patches  of  forest,  manured  by  burning  the 
timber  which  has  been  cut  down  on  it.  When  they  were  debarred 
from  continuing  this  destructive  method  in  Government  forests,  a  Re- 
serve of  24,000  acres  was  allotted  to  them  for  this  purpose,  in  which 
there  are  still  a  few  villages.  Most  of  them  have  now,  however,  taken 
to  cultivation  in  the  ordinary  manner.  Until  recently  the  Baigas 
considered  that  hunting  was  the  only  dignified  occupation  for  a  man, 
and  left  as  much  as  possible  of  the  work  of  cultivation  to  their  women- 
kind.  About  83  per  cent,  of  the  population  of  the  District  are 
dependent  on  agriculture. 

Of  the  560  Christians,  536  are  natives,  and  most  of  these  belong 
to  the  Church  Missionary  Society,  which  has  stations  at  Mandla  and 
four  other  villages.  There  are  a  number  of  European  missionaries 
and  the  institutions  supported  include  schools  at  all  the  stations  and 
two  dispensaries. 

The  varieties  of  soil  are  mainly  those  formed  by  the  decomposition 


r64 


MANDLA    DISTRICT 


of  basalt  rock,  though  in  the  south,  and  especially  on  the  high  south- 
eastern  plateau,   areas  of  sandy  soil  occur.      Black  soil  is   generally 
.  found  only  in  patches  in  low-lying  valleys ;  but  owing 

to  the  fact  that  the  total  area  under  cultivation  is  so 
small,  it  furnishes  a  higher  proportion  of  the  whole  than  in  most 
Districts.  The  remaining  land  consists  mainly  of  the  shallow  stony 
soil  in  which  only  the  minor  autumn  crops  are  grown.  Much  of  the 
forest  stands  on  good  cultivable  soil,  and  although  the  land  newly 
broken  up  in  the  last  thirty  years  is  generally  of  the  poorer  varieties, 
still  the  expansion  of  cultivation  is  far  from  having  reached  its  limit. 
About  31  per  cent,  of  the  area  occupied  is  uncultivated,  resting  fallows 
being  essential  in  the  absence  of  any  artificial  stimulus  to  allow  the 
poorer  land  to  recuperate.  Wheat  is  sown  in  embanked  fields  in  the 
tract  round  Mandla  town  and  in  open  fields  in  the  villages  to  the  south- 
west, where  the  ground  is  too  uneven  and  the  soil  not  sufficiently 
adhesive  to  allow  of  embankments. 

About  Soo  square  miles,  formerly  Government  forest,  are  in  process 
of  settlement  on  ryotwari  tenure,  while  10,000  acres  are  held  wholly  or 
partially  free  of  revenue,  and  33  square  miles  have  been  sold  outright 
under  the  Waste  Land  Rules.  The  balance  is  held  on  the  ordinary 
malguzari  tenure.  The  following  table  gives  statistics  of  cultivation  in 
1903-4,  according  to  revenue  returns,  areas  being  in  square  miles  : — 


Tali  <:i/. 

Total. 

Cultivated 

Irrigated. 

Cultivable 

waste. 

• 
Forests. 

Mandla 
DindorT 

Total 

2,537 
2,524 

608 
682 

5 

73' 
674 

M°5 

906 

942 

5.061 

1,290 

5 

1,848 

Wheat  covers  164  square  miles  or  13  per  cent,  of  the  cropped  area, 
rice  173  square  miles  or  17  per  cent.,  the  oilseeds  til  and  jagnl 
145  square  miles,  and  the  small  millets  kodon  and  httkl  444  square 
miles.  The  main  feature  of  recent  statistics  is  the  decline  in  the 
popularity  of  wheat,  and  the  increase  in  that  of  almost  every  other 
crop,  as  a  result  of  the  succession  of  unfavourable  wheat  harvests. 
But  in  the  twenty  years  previous  to  the  summary  settlement  of  1890, 
the  area  under  wheat  had  more  than  doubled,  while  that  of  rice  had 
increased  by  nearly  50  per  cent. 

The  method  of  rice  cultivation  is  peculiar,  the  young  shoots  being 
ploughed  up  as  soon  as  they  appear  above  the  ground.  Those  which 
are  ploughed  or  trodden  well  into  the  ground  subsequently  take  root 
more  strongly,  while  those  left  exposed  on  the  surface  die  off  and  the 
crop  is  thus  thinned.  Little  rice  is  transplanted.  The  practice  of 
raising  two  crops  in  the  embanked  wheat-fields  has  grown  up  in  the 


FORESTS  r65 

last  thirty  years,  and  second  crops  are  now  normally  grown  on  about 
80  square  miles.  Manure  is  applied  to  this  area.  Considerable 
quantities  of  waste  or  forest  land  have  in  recent  years  been  allotted  for 
cultivation  on  the  ryotivari  tenure,  the  area  so  taken  up  amounting  to 
217  square  miles,  on  which  a  revenue  of  Rs.  57,000  is  paid.  Practically 
no  loans  have  been  taken  under  the  Land  Improvement  Act,  while 
between  1894  and  1904  1-25  lakhs  was  advanced  under  the  Agri- 
culturists' Loans  Act. 

The  cattle  used  are  bred  locally.  They  are  small  and  weak,  no  care 
being  exercised  in  breeding,  though  Mandla  has  every  facility  for  the 
production  of  an  excellent  class  of  bullocks.  Those  raised  on  the 
Raigarh  and  Ramgarh  plateaux  are  the  best.  Buffaloes  are  not 
generally  used  for  cultivation,  but  they  are  bred,  and  the  cows  kept 
for  the  manufacture  of  ghi,  the  young  bulls  being  sold  in  Chhattisgarh. 
The  upper  classes  generally  keep  a  small  pony  of  the  usual  type  for 
riding,  as  carts  cannot  travel  except  on  three  or  four  main  roads  and 
in  the  HavelT  during  the  open  season.  Ponies  and  bullocks  are 
also  largely  used  for  pack  carriage.  There  are  very  few  goats  or 
sheep. 

Irrigation  is  insignificant,  being  applied  only  to  sugar-cane,  which 
covers  about  500  acres,  and  to  vegetable  and  garden  crops,  including 
the  betel-vine  gardens,  of  which  there  are  many  round  Mandla  town. 
The  sandy  soil  of  the  south  and  south-east  would,  however,  repay  irri- 
gation. Considerable  stretches  of  sandy  or  kachhar  land  are  exposed 
on  the  banks  of  the  Narbada,  which  are  flooded  every  year  by  the 
river,  and  fertilized  by  a  deposit  of  silt ;  and  on  these  vegetables  and 
tobacco  are  raised. 

Government  forests  cover  an  area  of  1,848  square  miles,  distributed 
all  over  the  District,  though  the  most  valuable  are  in  the  south  and 
south-east.  About  854  miles,  not  included  in  this 
area,  have  lately  been  demarcated  for  disforestation 
and  agricultural  settlement.  The  most  important  tree  is  the  sal  (Shorea 
robusta),  which  forms  almost  pure  forests,  occupying  the  whole  of  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  District,  as  well  as  a  fringe  of  varying  depth 
along  the  northern  and  southern  boundaries.  It  is  found  in  the 
south  in  the  forests  known  as  the  Banjar  and  Phen  Reserves,  where 
specimens  100  feet  in  height  and  10  feet  in  girth  are  not  uncommon. 
The  western  and  central  portions  of  the  District  contain  the  ordinary 
type  of  mixed  forest  common  all  over  the  Central  Provinces.  Teak 
is  not  very  plentiful  and  does  not  attain  large  dimensions.  Bamboos, 
which  are  very  numerous  in  these  mixed  forests,  are  their  most 
generally  useful  and  valuable  product.  Owing  to  the  heavy  rainfall, 
the  sal  forests  in  the  east  of  the  District  are  watered  by  running 
streams,  and  are  widely  known    as  grazing  grounds  for  cattle,  large 


r66  MANDLA   DISTRICT 

herds  being  brought  to  them  annually  from  all  parts  of  the  Province 
for  the  hot  season.  Among  the  minor  products  of  the  forests  the  most 
important  is  the  myrabolam.  In  an  exceptionally  favourable  year 
the  Government  forests  of  the  District  have  been  known  to  yield 
more  than  i,ooo  tons  of  this  commodity.  Other  minor  products 
include  lac,  resin  from  the  saltree,  tlkhur,  and  a  species  of  arrow- 
root. The  forest  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  1,42,000,  of  which 
about  Rs.  44,000  was  realized  from  sales  of  timber  and  Rs.  47,000 
from  grazing. 

Extensive  iron-ore  deposits  occur  in  the  District,  and  are  quarried 
and  smelted  by  Agarias  or  Gond  iron-workers.  The  industry  does  not 
flourish,  as  their  methods  are  very  primitive  and  they  find  it  difficult  to 
compete  with  imported  iron.  The  furnaces  used  are  so  small  that  each 
smelting  does  not  yield  more  than  2  lb.  of  refined  iron.  Only  34  tons 
of  iron  were  produced  in  1904.  Manganese  is  reported  to  have  been 
found  within  3  miles  of  Mandla  town  at  Sahasradhara.  Limestone  of 
good  quality  is  common  in  many  parts  of  the  District,  but  is  only 
quarried  in  small  quantities  to  meet  local  requirements. 

Coarse  cotton  cloth  is  produced  in  most  of  the  larger  villages,  but 

no    fine    material    is   woven   except  by  a  few  families  of  Koshtas   in 

Mandla   town.     Machine-made    cloth  is   now  worn, 

Trade  and  ■       h      interior,   except    by  the   forest    tribes, 

communications.  '.  l.       J 

Other  classes  of  agriculturists  usually  wear  hand- 
woven  loin-cloths,  and  coats  of  cloth  from  the  mills.  The  vessels 
manufactured  from  bell-metal  at  Mandla  are  well-known  locally. 
Glass  bangles  are  made  at  Itka  near  Nainpur,  and  lac  bangles  at 
Mandla,  BamhnI,  and  Hirdenagar.  The  most  important  bazar  or 
weekly  market  is  at  Pindrai  on  the  western  border  towards  Seonl, 
which  is  both  a  cattle  and  grain  market,  and  a  centre  for  the  disposal 
of  local  produce  and  the  purchase  of  imported  commodities.  The 
other  large  bazars  are  at  Mandla,  BamhnI,  and  Newari  in  the  Mandla 
talis!/,  and  at  Kukarramath  in  the  Dindori  tahstl.  Two  important 
annual  fairs  are  held  :  at  Hirdenagar  situated  at  the  junction  of  the 
Banjar  with  the  Matiari,  and  at  Madhpurl  on  the  Xarbada  about 
eight  miles  east  of  Mandla  town. 

AYheat,  rice,  oilseeds,  sa/i-hemp,  and  ghl  are  the  staple  exports. 
From  the  forests  a  large  quantity  of  sal  timber  and  a  little  teak  are 
sent,  and  also  lac  and  myrabolams.  Bombay  sea-salt  and  Mauritius 
sugar  come  through  Jubbulpore.  Kerosene  oil  is  generally  used  for 
lighting.  Gur  is  imported  from  Cawnpore,  and  in  spite  of  the  cost 
of  carriage  can  undersell  that  made  locally.  The  pulse  arhar  is  not 
produced  in  Mandla  and  is  imported  for  consumption,  as  well  as 
turmeric  and  all  other  condiments  and  spices.  Vessels  of  brass  are 
brought   from    Mirzapur   and    of    bell-metal    from    L'mrer.     Silk    and 


FAMINE  ,6; 

cotton  cloth  comes  principally  from  Nagpur.  Agarwal  and  Gahoi 
Banias  conduct  the  general  trade  of  the  District,  and  Punjabi  Muham- 
madans  the  timber  trade. 

The  Jubbulpore-Gondia  branch  of  the  Bengal-Nagpur  Railway, 
completed  in  1904,  passes  through  a  small  strip  of  the  District  on 
the  south-western  border,  and  has  two  stations,  Nainpur  and  Pindrai, 
within  the  District.  It  is  in  contemplation  to  construct  a  branch  line 
from  Nainpur  to  Mandla,  a  distance  of  about  22  miles  by  the  direct 
route.  At  present  most  of  the  trade  from  the  west  of  the  District  is 
with  Jubbulpore,  along  the  only  existing  metalled  road.  An  alternative 
route  to  Jubbulpore  through  Pindrai  attracts  some  traffic,  on  account 
of  the  importance  of  the  Pindrai  weekly  market.  From  Dindori, 
64  miles  to  the  east  of  Mandla,  there  is  an  embanked  road  to  Jubbul- 
pore, which  affords  an  outlet  from  the  north-west.  Dindori  is  also 
connected  with  Birsinghpur  and  Pendra  stations  on  the  Katnl-Bilaspur 
branch  of  the  Bengal-Nagpur  Railway.  Carriage  has  hitherto  generally 
been  by  pack-animals,  except  on  the  main  routes.  The  District  has 
48  miles  of  metalled  and  233  miles  of  unmetalled  roads,  and  the 
annual  expenditure  on  maintenance  is  Rs.  35,000.  With  the  exception 
of  7  miles  kept  up  out  of  Local  funds,  all  roads  are  maintained  by 
the  Public  "Works  department.  Only  13  miles  of  avenues  of  trees  are 
shown  in  the  returns. 

Mandla  suffered  from  distress  or  famine  in  1818-9,  1823-7,  and 
1833-4.     On    the    first   occasion    the   autumn    rains   were   short,  and 

excessive  rain  fell  during  the  winter  months.     From        _ 

o  o  •  c    1  Famine. 

1823  to  1827  a  succession  01  short  crops  was  expe- 
rienced, due  to  floods,  hail,  and  blight,  which  caused  the  desertion  of 
many  villages.  In  1833-4  the  autumn  rains  failed,  and  the  spring 
crops  could  not  be  sown  owing  to  the  hardness  of  the  ground,  caused 
by  the  premature  cessation  of  the  rains.  Rice  was  imported  from' 
Chhattlsgarh  by  Government  agency,  but  no  further  details  are  known 
regarding  these  famines.  In  the  general  famine  of  1868-9  Mandla 
was  only  slightly  affected,  as  the  kodon  crop  on  which  the  poorest 
of  the  population  depend  was  fairly  successful,  and  no  general  relief 
was  necessary.  When  the  famine  of  1896-7  came  upon  the  District, 
Mandla  had  already  suffered  from  a  succession  of  poor  crops  for  three 
years.  The  autumn  harvest  of  1896  was  a  total  failure,  and  distress 
was  very  severe,  especially  among  the  fsrest  tribes,  who  were  inclined 
to  view  with  suspicion  the  efforts  made  by  Government  to  keep  them 
alive.  Relief  operations  had  commenced  in  June,  1896,  on  account  of 
the  previous  bad  harvests,  and  they  lasted  until  the  end  of  1S97.  The 
maximum  number  on  relief  was  37,000  persons,  or  n  per  cent.  v(  the 
population,  in  September,  1897;  and  the  total  expenditure  on  relief 
was  7-5  lakhs.     In   1899 -'1900  Mandla  was  not  severely  affected. 


1 68  MANDLA  DISTRICT 

The  Deputy-Commissioner  is  aided  by  one  Assistant  or  Extra- 
Assistant  Commissioner.     For  administrative  purposes  the  District  is 

.,    .  .  .     ..         divided  into  two  tahslls,  each  of  which  has  a  tahsildar 
Administration.         ,  .,,._,,_        '        ,_, 

and  a  naib-taksildar.     The  Forest  officer  is  generally 

a  member  of  the  Imperial  service.     The  Executive  Engineer  at  Jubbul- 

pore  is  also  in  charge  of  Mandla. 

The  judicial  staff  consists  of  a  Subordinate  Judge  who  is  also  Dis- 
trict Judge,  and  a  Munsif  at  Mandla.  The  Divisional  and  Sessions 
Judge  of  the  Jubbulpore  Division  has  jurisdiction  in  Mandla.  The 
civil  litigation  is  petty  and  crime  extremely  light,  the  commonest 
class  of  cases  being  contraventions  of  the  Excise  Act  by  the  illicit 
manufacture  of  liquor. 

.Mandla  is  stated  to  have  paid  at  one  time  a  very  high  revenue  to 
its  Gond  rulers,  but  when  it  first  came  under  British  control  it  had 
undergone  an  interlude  of  Maratha  maladministration  in  its  worst  form. 
Xo  records  of  the  earlier  governments  remain,  but  at  the  date  of  the 
cession  in  1818  the  revenue  paid  to  the  Marathas  is  believed  to  have 
been  Rs.  40,000.  Under  the  Marathas  the  revenue  was  settled 
annually  with  the  village  headmen,  who  were  allowed  to  retain  one- 
seventh  part  of  it.  Xo  rights  in  land  were  recognized,  but  the  head- 
men and  tenants  were  not  usually  ejected  except  for  default.  Nume- 
rous miscellaneous  taxes  were  also  imposed,  the  realizations  from 
which  are  said  to  have  exceeded  the  ordinary  land  revenue.  One 
of  these  was  the  sale  of  widows,  who  were  looked  on  as  government 
property,  and  sold  according  to  a  sliding  scale  varying  with  their  age 
and  accomplishments,  the  highest  price  being  Rs.  1,000.  The  revenue 
raised  in  the  first  annual  settlement  after  the  cession  was  Rs.  36,000 ; 
and  subsequent  efforts  to  increase  this  having  resulted  in  further 
impoverishing  the  District,  in  1837  a  twenty  years'  settlement  was 
made  for  Rs.  27,000.  On  its  expiry  the  District  was  summarily 
assessed  for  a  few  years  until  the  completion  of  the  twenty  years' 
settlement  of  1868,  when  the  revenue  was  fixed  at  Rs.  62,000,  or  an 
increase  of  more  than  48  per  cent,  on  the  previous  demand.  On  this 
occasion  a  cadastral  survey  was  undertaken,  and  proprietary  rights 
were  conferred  on  the  village  headmen.  The  twenty  years'  settlement 
expired  in  1888,  and  the  District  was  then  summarily  assessed  for 
a  period  of  fourteen  to  fifteen  years  pending  the  undertaking  of 
a  regular  cadastral  survey.  A  very  large  increase  in  agricultural  pros- 
perity had  taken  place  during  the  currency  of  the  previous  settlement, 
and  the  price  of  grain  had  more  than  doubled.  At  revision  the  revenue 
was  raised  to  Rs.  r, 08,000,  an  increase  of  64  per  cent,  on  the  former 
demand,  but  giving  an  incidence  of  less  than  3^  annas  per  cultivated 
acre.  The  District  is  now  again  under  settlement,  the  previous  term 
having  expired,  while  a  new  cadastral  survey  has  also  been  completed. 


MAXDLA    TAHSIL 


169 


The  following  table  shows  the  receipts,  in  thousands  of  rupees,  of 
revenue  from  land  and  from  all  sources  : — 


1880-1. 

1890-1.        1900-1. 

' 9°3-4- 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

90 
2,46 

]  ;48             1 ,6y 
4--1°            3,15 

1,78 
4-64 

Mandla  has  no  District  council,  and  Local  funds  are  administered 
by  the  Deputy-Commissioner,  the  income  from  these  in  1903-4  being 
Rs.  31,000.     Mandla  Town  is  the  only  municipality. 

The  police  force  consists  of  311  officers  and  men,  with  3  mounted 
constables,  under  a  District  Superintendent,  besides  1,043  village 
watchmen  for  1,834  inhabited  towns  and  villages.  Mandla  town  has 
a  District  jail  with  accommodation  for  85  prisoners,  including  8  females  : 
the   daily  average  number  in   1904  was  69. 

In  respect  of  education  the  District  stands  fifteenth  in  the  Province, 
3-7  per  cent,  of  the  male  population  being  able  to  read  and  write  in 
1 90 1,  while  only  203  females  were  returned  as  literate.  The  percentage 
of  children  under  instruction  to  those  of  school-going  age  is  8.  Statis- 
tics of  the  number  of  pupils  are  as  follows:  (1880-1)  949;  (1890-1) 
1,767;  (1900-1)  2,586;  (1903-4)  3,873,  including  283  girls.  The 
educational  institutions  comprise  an  English  middle  school,  3  ver- 
nacular middle  schools,  and  56  primary  schools.  Mission  schools 
for  male  and  female  orphans  are  maintained  at  Patpara.  The  expen- 
diture on  education  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  18,000,  of  which  Rs.  13,500 
was  provided  from  Provincial  and  Local  funds,  and  Rs.  1,400  by 
fees. 

The  District  has  6  dispensaries,  with  accommodation  for  52  in- 
patients. In  1904  the  number  of  cases  treated  was  25,108,  of  whom 
428  were  in-patients,  and  t,^2  operations  were  performed.  The  expen- 
diture was  Rs.  4,000,  mainly  derived  from  Provincial  and  Local  funds. 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  in  the  municipality  of  Mandla.  The 
number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  in  1903-4  was  64  per  1.000 
of  the  District  population,  this  result  being  very  favourable. 

[J.  B.  Fuller,  Report  on  the  Summary  Settlement,  1894.  A  District 
Gazetteer  is  being  compiled.] 

Mandla  Tahsil.  — Southern  tahsil  of  Mandla  District,  Central  Pro- 
vinces, lying  between  22°  12'  and  230  9'  N.  and  790  58'  and  8i°  12'  L., 
with  an  area  of  2,537  square  miles.  Population  decreased  from  193,928 
in  1891  to  177,621  in  1901.  The  area  and  population  have  been 
slightly  altered  since  the  Census  of  1901  by  the  transfer  of  territory 
to  and  from  Balaghat  District,  and  the  adjusted  figures  are  2,530  square 
miles  and  178,771  persons.  The  density  is  70  persons  per  square 
mile.     The  tahsil  contains  one  town,  Mandla  (population,  5,428).  the 


17©  M AND  LA    TAHSIL 

tahsil  and  District  head-quarters  ;  and  9S0  inhabited  villages.  Excluding 
906  square  miles  of  Government  forest,  44  per  cent,  of  the  available 
area  is  occupied  for  cultivation.  The  cultivated  area  in  1903-4  was 
608  square  miles.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in  the  same  year 
was  Rs.  90,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  14,000.  The  tahsil  contains  some 
open  tracts  of  good  land  on  the  south-west,  while  the  rest  consists 
of  a  number  of  small  and  fertile  valleys  separated  by  hill  ranges  and 
forests.  The  eastern  plateaux  are  covered  with  nutritious  grass,  and 
form  a  well-known  grazing  area  for  cattle  in  the  summer  months. 

Mandla  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  District  and  tahsil  of  the 
same  name,  Central  Provinces,  situated  in  220  36'  N.  and  8o°  23'  E., 
60  miles  south-east  of  Jubbulpore  by  road,  and  22  miles  from  Nainpur 
junction  on  the  narrow-gauge  Jubbulpore-Gondia  line.  The  town  is 
picturesquely  situated  in  a  loop  of  the  river  Narbada,  which  surrounds 
it  on  three  sides,  and  for  15  miles  between  Mandla  and  Ramnagar 
flows  in  a  deep  bed  unbroken  by  rocks.  Population  (1901),  5,428. 
Mandla  was  made  the  capital  of  the  Gond  Garha-Mandla  dynasty 
about  1670.  The  Gonds  erected  a  fort  and  built  a  palace.  Their 
successors,  the  Marathas,  built  a  wall  on  the  side  of  the  town  not  pro- 
tected by  the  river,  which  has  lately  been  demolished.  Mandla  was 
held  by  a  Maratha  garrison  in  181 8,  and  was  taken  by  assault  by  the 
British.  It  contains  numerous  ghats  leading  down  to  the  Narbada,  and 
some  modern  temples.  Ramnagar,  the  site  of  a  Gond  palace,  is  10 
miles  from  Mandla.  The  town  was  created  a  municipality  in  1867. 
The  municipal  receipts  during  the  decade  ending  1901  averaged 
Rs.  7,400.  In  1903-4  the  receipts  were  Rs.  7,600,  mainly  derived 
from  a  house  tax  and  tolls  on  roads  and  ferries.  The  principal 
industry  is  the  manufacture  of  vessels  from  bell-metal.  A  number 
of  betel-vine  gardens  are  situated  in  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and 
vegetables  are  grown  on  the  stretches  of  sandy  alluvial  soil  which  are 
left  exposed  during  the  dry  season  on  the  banks  of  the  Narbada. 
Mandla  contains  an  English  middle  school,  girls'  and  branch  schools, 
besides  a  private  Sanskrit  school  ;  three  dispensaries,  including  mission 
and  police  hospitals  ;  and  a  veterinary  dispensary.  A  station  of  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  has  been  established  here. 

Mandlana. — Village  in  the  Gohana  tahsil  of  Rohtak  District, 
Punjab.      Sec   MUNDLANA. 

Mandleshwar.  Head-quarters  of  the  pargana  of  the  same  name 
in  the  Indore  State,  Central  India,  situated  in  220  u'  N.  and  750  42' E. 
It  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Narbada,  at  a  narrow  point  where 
in  the  monsoon  the  stream  often  rises  60  feet  above  its  ordinary  level, 
becoming  a  roaring  torrent.  Population  (1901),  2,807.  It  fell  to  the 
Peshwa  in  the  eighteenth  century  ;  and  in  1740  was  granted  by  Malhar 
Rao  Holkar  t<>  a  Brahman,  Vyankatram  Shastrl,  whose  family  still  holds 


.VAXDC 


r  7  r 


a  sanadiox  it.  In  1823  it  became  the  head-quarters  of  the  District  of 
Nimar,  which  until  1864  was  managed  by  the  Agent  to  the  Governor- 
General  at  Indore.  In  1864,  on  the  transfer  of  Nimar  to  the  Central 
Provinces  administration,  the  head-quarters  were  moved  to  Khandwa, 
a  station  at  the  junction  of  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  and  Rajputana- 
Malwa  Railways.  Mandleshwar  was  restored  to  Holkar  in  1867.  The 
town  contains  a  palace,  and  several  bungalows  erected  under  British 
rule,  and  also  a  British  and  State  post  office,  a  school,  a  dispensary, 
and  an  inspection  bungalow. 

Mandor. — Ruined  town  in  the  State  of  Jodhpur,  Rajputana,  situated 
in  260  2 17  N.  and  730  2'  E.,  about  5  miles  north  of  Jodhpur  city. 
Population  (1901),  1,450.  The  place  is  of  great  historical  interest  from 
having  been  the  capital  of  the  Parihar  Rajputs  till  1381,  when  it  was 
wrested  from  them  by  Rao  Chonda,  -and  subsequently  the  seat  of 
government  of  the  Rathor  Rajputs  till  1459,  when  Jodhpur  city  was 
founded.  The  old  fort,  built  originally  by  a  Buddhist  architect,  but 
now  in  ruins,  contains  a  low  and  dark  pillared  chamber,  in  which  is 
found  the  sculptured  effigy  of  Nahar  Rao,  a  famous  Parihar  chief.  On 
an  elevated  plateau  not  far  from  the  fort  are  the  Panch  Kunda  (•  five 
reservoirs ')  ;  the  cenotaphs  of  four  of  the  earlier  Rathor  rulers,  the 
carving  on  that  of  Rao  Ganga,  who  died  about  1532,  being  very  fine; 
and  an  old  temple  with  an  inscription  dated  12 10.  In  another  direction 
are  the  cenotaphs  attesting  the  epoch  of  Marwar's  glory,  which  com- 
menced with  Maldeo  and  ended  with  the  sons  of  Ajlt ;  and  the  humbler 
monuments  erected  over  the  ashes  of  later  chiefs.  Of  these  buildings, 
that  raised  in  memory  of  Ajlt  Singh  (who  was  murdered  by  his  son  about 
1724)  is  larger  and  grander  than  anything  in  the  neighbourhood;  it 
marks  the  spot  where  his  sixty-four  queens  and  concubines  immolated 
themselves  on  his  funeral  pyre.  Another  object  of  interest  is  the  hall 
of  heroes,  a  gallery  of  sixteen  colossal  figures  hewn  out  of  a  single 
natural  rock.  It  is  known  as  the  Tetls  Karor  Devatan-ka-sthan, 
or  'the  abode  of  the  330  million  gods '  of  Hindu  mythology. 

[A.  Cunningham,  Archaeological  Survey  of  Nor  titer  n  India,  vol.  xxiii.] 

Mandu  (or  Mandogarh). — Historic  fort  in  the  Dhar  State,  Central 
India,  situated  in  220  21'  N.  and  750  26'  E.,  22  miles  from  Dhar  town, 
on  the  summit  of  a  flat-topped  hill  in  the  Yindhyan  range.  2,079  feet 
above  sea-level. 

Mandu  must  have  been  a  stronghold  from  the  earliest  days,  although 
practically  nothing  is  known  of  its  history  previous  to  Muhammadan 
times.  In  1304  it  was  taken  by  Ain-ul-mulk,  and  just  a  century  later 
became  the  capital  of  the  Muhammadan  kingdom  of  Malwa  under 
Hoshang  Shah  Ghorl  (1405-34).  During  the  rule  of  the  Malwa 
dynasty  Mandu  underwent  the  usual  vicissitudes  of  capital  towns 
in  those  days,   being,   except    for    fourteen    years  during   the  rule  ot 

VOL.   XVII.  M 


r72  MANDU 

Ghiyas-ud-din   Khiljl  (1475-1500),  constantly  the  scene  of  siege  and 
battle. 

In  j  531  Malwa  was  annexed  to  Gujarat  by  Bahadur  Shah,  in  whose 
possession  it  remained  until  he  was  defeated  in  1535  by  Humayun. 
On  Humayun's  retiring  soon  after,  the  fort  was  seized  by  one  Mallu 
Khan,  who  assumed  independence  under  the  title  of  Kadir  Shah.  He 
was  ousted  by  Sher  Shah  in  1545,  when  Mandu,  with  the  rest  of  Malwa, 
"was  placed  under  his  general,  Shujaat  (or  Shujawal)  Khan.  On  the 
break-up  of  the  Suri  dynasty,  Shujaat  Khan's  son  and  successor 
Bayazid,  better  known  as  Baz  Bahadur,  succeeded  to  the  rule  of  Malwa 
and  assumed  independence.  He  is  best  remembered  for  his  skill  in 
music,  and  for  his  romantic  attachment  to  the  beautiful  and  accom- 
plished singer,  RupmatI  of  Sarangpur.  In  1560-2  Mandu  was  finally 
incorporated  in  the  Mughal  empire,  and  became  the  head-quarters  of 
a  sarkar  in  the  Subah  of  Malwa.  Akbar  visited  Mandu  in  1564  and 
again  in  1598.  In  1585  the  English  merchant  and  traveller  Fitch 
visited  the  fort.  The  emperor  Jahangir  stayed  at  Mandu  for  some 
months  in  16 16  and  was  accompanied  by  Sir  Thomas  Roe,  who 
describes  his  sojourn  there  at  some  length.  Jahangir  also  gives  a  long 
account  of  the  visit  in  his  diary,  and  notes  that  he  had  the  old  palaces 
repaired  for  the  use  of  himself  and  his  retinue  at  a  cost  of  three  lakhs. 
Wild  animals  abounded  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  the  beautiful  Nur 
Jahan  herself  shot  four  tigers,  a  fact  which  roused  the  emperor's  admira- 
tion. He  visited  Mandu  again  in  1620.  In  1625  prince  Khurram 
(Shah  Jahan),  when  in  rebellion  against  his  father,  took  refuge  in 
Mandu.  In  1696  the  Marathas  held  the  town,  but  only  for  a  time,  the 
country  not  passing  finally  to  the  present  Dhar  family  till  1732. 

The  fort  is  formed  of  the  entire  hill,  round  which  runs  a  battle- 
mented  wall  nearly  23  miles  in  circuit.  Inside  are  numerous  mosques, 
palaces,  tombs,  and  dwelling-houses,  all  more  or  less  in  a  state  of  decay, 
but  many  of  them  magnificent  specimens  of  Pathan  architecture. 
Akbar  appears  to  have  destroyed  a  large  number  of  the  buildings  to 
render  the  place  less  attractive  to  his  rebel  subjects.  Jahangir  states 
that  his  father  took  six  months  to  capture  the  fort,  when  he  caused  the 
gateways,  towers,  and  ramparts,  with  the  city  within,  to  be  dismantled 
and  laid  in  ruins.  The  fort  has  ten  gates,  several  of  which  bear  inscrip- 
tions referring  to  their  erection  or  repair.  The  usual  entrance  is  by 
the  Garl  Darwaza  ('carriage  gate')  on  the  north  side  close  to  the  Delhi 
Gate.  Just  beyond  the  Garl  Darwaza  the  road  leads  to  a  beautiful 
collection  of  ruined  palaces,  built  by  the  Khiljl  rulers  of  Malwa  and 
enclosed  within  a  wall.  The  principal  buildings  inside  this  enclosure 
are  the  Hindola  Mahal,  a  massively  built  structure  with  steeply  sloping 
buttresses,  containing  a  great  hall,  very  suggestive  of  the  dining-hall  of 
an  Oxford  college,  and  the  picturesque  Jahaz  Mahal  ('  ship  palace '), 


M AND  VI    TALUK  A  T73 

so  called  from  its  overhanging  a  lake.  To  the  north  of  this  enclosure 
stands  the  oldest  mosque  on  the  hill,  built  of  fragments  of  fain  temp 
by  Dilawar  Khan  in  1405.  Next  come  the  Jama  Masjid  and  tomb  of 
Hoshang  Shah,  the  two  finest  buildings  in  the  fort  now  standing.  The 
great  mosque  is  a  splendid  example  of  Pathan  architecture,  of  simple 
grandeur  and  massive  strength.  It  was  founded  by  Hoshang  Shah  and 
completed  in  the  year  1454.  Opposite  is  a  mound  of  debris,  in  which 
the  remains  of  a  magnificent  marble  tomb  have  been  discovered,  pro- 
bably that  of  Mahmud  Khiljl  I.  When  complete,  it  must  have  sur- 
passed every  other  building  on  the  hill.  Beside  it  stand  the  foundations 
of  the  Tower  of  Victory,  seven  storeys  high,  raised  by  Mahmud  in 
1443,  in  commemoration  of  his  victory  over  Rana  Kumbha  of  Chitor. 
The  nature  of  the  victory  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  the  Rana 
erected  the  famous  tower  on  Chitor  fort  in  1448,  in  memory  of  his 
success  on  the  same  occasion.  The  tomb  of  Hoshang  Shah  stands 
beside  his  mosque.  It  is  a  magnificent  marble-domed  mausoleum, 
which  in  its  massive  simplicity  and  dim-lighted  roughness  is  a  suitable 
resting-place  for  a  great  warrior.  Not  far  beyond  stands  the  mosque 
of  Malik  Mugdls,  the  father  of  Mahmud  I.  It  was  built  in  1432  from 
the  remains  of  other  buildings,  and,  though  somewhat  damaged,  is  still 
a  very  fine  building,  both  in  its  proportions  and  delicate  finish.  The 
remaining  buildings  of  importance  are  the  palaces  of  Baz  Bahadur  and 
Rupmatl.  The  former  stands  about  half  a  mile  from  the  scarp  of  the 
hill,  the  latter  on  its  very  edge.  The  view  from  the  roof  of  Rupmatl's 
palace  is  a  magnificent  one.  Below  flows  the  broad  stream  of  the  sacred 
Xarbada,  its  fertile  valley  lined  with  fields  of  wheat  and  poppy,  while  to 
the  south  the  long  line  of  the  forest-covered  Satpuras  stretch  ridge 
behind  ridge  down  to  the  valley  of  the  Tapti  river  beyond.  Among 
these  hills  the  sacred  peak  of  Bawangaja  (see  Barwani)  stands  con- 
spicuous. 

[C.  Harris,  The  Ruins  of  Mandoo  (i860);  Bombay  Gazetteer,  vol.  i, 
part  ii,  pp.  352-84;  Captain  Barnes,  Journal  of  the  Bombay  Branch, 
Royal  Asiatic  Society,  vol.  xxi,  pp.  355-91.] 

Mandvi  Taluka.—  North-eastern  taluka  of  Surat  District,  Bombay, 
lying  between  210  12'  and  210  27'  N.  and  720  5c/  and  730  29/  E.,  with 
an  area  of  279  square  miles.  The  river  Tapti  forms  the  southern 
boundary.  There  are  136  villages  and  one  town,  Mandvi  (population, 
4,142),  the  head-quarters.  The  population  in  1901  was  42,450,  com- 
pared with  53,942  in  1 89 1.  This  is  the  most  thinly  populated  taluka 
in  the  District,  and  the  density,  152  persons  per  square  mile,  is  much 
below  the  average.  Land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to 
over  i-8  lakhs.  The  western  part  of  the  taluka  is  the  most  fertile  and 
prosperous  ;  in  the  east  the  population  gradually  becomes  scanty  and 
unsettled,  and  cultivation  disappears.    The  climate  is  the  worst  in  Surat 

M    2 


174 


MA  YD  VI   TAL  UK  A 


District.     Both  in  ponds  and  wells  the  water-supply  is  defective  and 
its  quality  bad.     The  staple  crops  are  rice,  cotton,  and  jowdr. 

Mandvi  Town  (i).— Head  quarters  of  the  tdluka  of  the  same  name 
in  Surat  District,  Bombay,  situated  in  210  i8'N.  and  73°22r  E.  Popula- 
tion (1901),  4,142.  The  municipality  was  established  in  1868.  During 
the  decade  ending  1901  the  income  averaged  Rs.  6,000  ;  in  1903-4 
it  amounted  to  Rs.  6,273.  The  town  contains  a  dispensary  and  four 
schools,  three  (including  an  English  school)  for  boys  and  one  for  girls, 
attended  respectively  by  302  and  58  pupils. 

Mandvi  Town  {Mondavi)  (2).— Seaport  in  the  State  of  Cutch,  Bom- 
bay, situated  in  220  50'  N.  and  690  32'  E.,  on  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of 
Cutch,  36  miles  south-west  of  Bhuj.  Population  (1901),  24,683.  The 
town  contains  a  hospital  and  a  dispensary,  treating  annually  about 
14,000  patients.  Mandvi,  or  'the  mart,'  also  called  Maska  Mandvi,  was 
known  in  old  times  as  Raipur  or  Riyan.  Two  suburbs,  Old  and  New 
Saraya,  inhabited  by  traders  and  seafaring  men,  stand  outside  the  town 
walls.  Vessels  of  70  tons  can  come  within  500  yards.  Mandvi  is 
a  port  of  call  for  British  India  steamers.  The  muallims  (pilots)  are 
noted  throughout  Cutch.  There  are  two  lighthouses  :  one  at  the  end 
of  the  breakwater  with  a  revolving  dioptric  light  of  the  fourth  order  ; 
and  the  other  on  the  south-west  bastion  of  the  fort,  which  is  maintained 
by  the  State  and  is  visible  for  1 7  miles  in  clear  weather.  The  light  is 
of  the  holophotal  order,  and  shows  three  flashes  at  intervals  of  thirty 
seconds.  Mandvi  is  a  municipal  town,  with  an  income  in  1903-4  of 
Rs.  6,600. 

Mandwa. — Petty  State  in  Rewa  Kantha,  Bombay. 

Mandya. — North-eastern  taluk  of  Mysore  District,  Mysore  State, 
lying  between  120  26'  and  120  48'  N.  and  760  43'  and  770  8'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  450  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  115,574, 
compared  with  99,783  in  1891.  The  taluk  contains  two  towns,  Mandya 
(population,  4,496),  the  head-quarters,  and  Maddur  (2,597) ;  and  300 
villages.  The  land  revenue  demand  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  1,74,000.  The 
Shimsha  flows  through  the  east  of  the  taluk  from  north  to  south.  It 
is  dammed  north  of  Maddur,  and  feeds  several  miles  of  channels  for 
irrigation.  The  country  is  gently  undulating,  moderately  wooded,  and 
contains  no  jungle.  The  '  dry-crop '  soils  are  poor  and  gravelly, 
especially  in  the  uplands  to  the  north.  Good  red  soil  occurs  in  the 
centre  and  east  of  the  Shimsha.  The  soils  of  '  wet '  lands  are  of  fine 
quality.  Rice  is  the  principal  '  wet '  crop.  There  is  a  good  deal  of 
mulberry  in  the  east.  The  areca  gardens  were  ruined  in  the  famine 
of  1878.  Inferior  crops  are  grown  after  the  harvest  and  ploughed  in 
for  manuring  the  rice-fields.  Sheep  are  numerous,  and  a  superior  kind 
of  blanket  is  made  at  Mandya  and  other  places.  Silkworms  are  largely 
reared,  the  cocoons  being  sent  to  Channapatna  for  reeling. 


MANGALDAI  175 

Maner. — Village  in  the  Dinapore  subdivision  of  Patna  District, 
Bengal,  situated  in  250  38'  N.  and  840  53'  E.,  a  few  miles  below  the 
junction  of  the  Son  with  the  Ganges,  10  miles  from  Dinapore  canton- 
ment and  5  miles  from  Bihta  station  on  the  East  Indian  Railway. 
Population  (1901),  2,765.  Maner  is  a  very  old  place,  being  mentioned 
in  the  Ain-i-Akbari.  The  chief  antiquities  are  the  tombs  of  Makhdum 
Yahia  Maner  and  Makhdum  Shah  Daulat.  The  latter,  which  was  built 
in  16 1 6,  stands  on  a  raised  platform,  and  at  each  corner  rises  a  slender 
pillar  of  graceful  proportions  and  exquisite  beauty.  It  has  a  great 
dome,  and  the  ceiling  is  covered  with  delicately  carved  texts  from  the 
Koran.     Two  annual  fairs  are  held  at  Maner. 

Mangal. — One  of  the  Simla  Hill  States,  Punjab,  lying  between 
310  18'  and  310  22'  N.  and  760  55'  and  770  i'  E.,  with  an  area  of 
12  square  miles.  Population  (1901),  1,227.  ^ne  chiefs  are  Rajputs 
of  the  Atri  tribe,  and  the  family  originally  came  from  Marwar.  The 
State  was  an  ancient  dependency  of  Bilaspur,  but  was  declared  inde- 
pendent after  the  expulsion  of  the  Gurkhas  in  181 5.  Its  principal 
products  are  grain  and  opium,  and  it  has  a  revenue  of  Rs.  900,  out 
of  which  Rs.  72  is  paid  as  tribute.  The  present  chief,  Rana  Tilok 
Singh,  was  born  in  1851,  and  succeeded  in  1892. 

Mangalagiri  ('  Hill  of  happiness '). — Town  in  the  District  and  taluk 
of  Guntur,  Madras,  situated  in  160  26'  N.  and  8o°  34'  E.  Population 
(1901),  7,702.  Some  distance  up  the  hill  after  which  it  is  named  is 
a  rock-cut  platform  with  a  temple  of  Narasimhaswami,  to  which  thou- 
sands of  Hindus  flock  during  the  annual  festival  held  at  the  full  moon 
in  March.  In  the  town  is  a  large  deep  reservoir,  built  square  with  stone 
steps.  Local  legends  used  to  say  that  it  was  unfathomable,  and  had 
a  golden  temple  at  the  bottom  ;  but  in  the  great  famine  of  1833  it  dried 
up.  In  it  were  found  nearly  10,000  old  matchlocks,  thrown  there, 
doubtless,  during  one  of  the  many  wars  which  have  swept  over  this 
part  of  the  country. 

Mangaldai.  —  Subdivision  of  Darrang  District,  Eastern  Bengal 
and  Assam,  lying  between  260  12' and  260  56'  N.  and  91  4-'  and  92° 
27'  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,245  square  miles.  It  consists  of  a  compact 
block  of  land  lying  between  the  Brahmaputra  and  the  Himalayas. 
Between  1891  and  1901  the  population  fell  from  187,950  to  170,580, 
while  in  the  previous  decade  there  had  been  hardly  any  increase.  This 
lack  of  progress  is  chiefly  due  to  kald  azar,  the  malarial  fever  which  has 
wrought  such  havoc  in  Lower  and  Central  Assam.  The  marshes  that 
fringe  the  Brahmaputra  are  fit  only  for  the  cultivation  of  mustard  and 
summer  rice,  but  the  central  portion  of  Mangaldai  is  closely  populated, 
and  the  subdivision  supports  137  persons  per  square  mile,  as  compared 
with  77  in  the  neighbouring  subdivision  of  Tezpur.  In  1904  there 
were  in  Mangaldai  26  tea  gardens  with  10,940  acres  under  plant,  which 


176  MANGALDAI 

gave  employment  to  28  Europeans  and  13,271  natives ;  but  the  tea  plant 
does  not  thrive  as  well  here  as  in  Upper  Assam.  In  the  central  portion 
the  annual  rainfall  averages  between  60  and  70  inches,  while  it  is  as 
much  as  100  inches  under  the  hills.  The  submontane  tracts  are  chiefly 
inhabited  by  the  Kachari  tribe,  who  irrigate  their  rice-fields  with  water 
drawn  from  the  hill  streams  ;  but  artificial  irrigation  is  not  required  in 
the  central  portion  of  the  subdivision.  The  subdivision  contains  783 
villages,  including  Mangaldai,  the  head-quarters.  The  assessment  of 
land  revenue  and  local  rates  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  4,01,000. 

Mangalore  Subdivision  (Ma/igaluru).  —  Subdivision  of  South 
Kanara  District,  Madras,  consisting  of  the  Mangalore  taluk  and  the 
Amindivi  Islands. 

Mangalore  Taluk.—  Taluk  in  the  centre  of  South  Kanara  District, 
Madras,  lying  between  120  48'  and  13°  13'  N.  and  740  47'  and  750 
17"  E.,  with  an  area  of  679  square  miles.  It  contains  one  town,  Manga- 
lore (population,  44,108),  the  head-quarters;  and  243  villages.  The 
demand  for  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  5,82,000. 
The  population  was  334,294  in  1901,  compared  with  302,624  in  1891, 
showing  an  increase  of  10-5  per  cent.  The  density  is  high  along  the 
coast  and  in  the  fertile  valleys  of  the  Netravati  and  Gurpur  rivers,  and 
averages  492  persons  per  square  mile  for  the  taluk  as  a  whole.  The 
finest  coco-nut  gardens  are,  as  usual,  found  along  the  backwaters,  where 
also  a  considerable  amount  of  sugar-cane  is  grown.  The  best  areca 
gardens  occur  inland  and  near  the  Western  Ghats.  Rice  is  the  prin- 
cipal crop.  Round  Mangalore,  near  Bajpe  and  elsewhere,  considerable 
quantities  of  '  dry  grains,'  chillies,  turmeric,  vegetables,  and  flowers 
are  grown,  chiefly  by  native  Christians.  The  laterite  plateaux  in  this 
taluk  are  very  extensive,  notably  that  round  Mudbidri,  and  many  of 
the  hills  round  Mangalore  have  been  stripped  bare  to  supply  the  local 
market  for  firewood ;  but  its  deep  valleys  and  outstanding  bluffs  and 
crags,  with  the  ever-present  towering  background  of  the  Ghats,  render 
its  scenery  unsurpassed. 

Mangalore  Town. — Administrative  head-quarters  of  South  Kanara 
District,  Madras,  situated  on  the  shore  of  the  Indian  Ocean  in  120 
52'  N.  and  740  51'  E.  The  population  in  1901  was  44,108,  of  whom 
25,312  were  Hindus,  7,149  Musalmans,  and  as  many  as  11,604  Chris- 
tians. The  town  stretches  for  about  5  miles  along  the  backwater  formed 
by  the  Netravati  and  Gurpur  rivers.  Viewed  from  the  sea,  or  from 
any  point  of  vantage,  it  presents  the  appearance  of  a  vast  coco-nut 
plantation,  broken  only  here  by  some  church  spire  and  there  by  a 
factory  chimney.     The  busy  bazars  are  quite  concealed  from  view. 

Under  various  local  chiefs,  whether  they  aspired  to  independence 
or  admitted  the  suzerainty  of  Vijayanagar  or  Bednur,  such  places  as 
Barkur   and   Karkala  were  of  greater  importance  than   Mangalore, 


MANGALORE    TOWN  177 

though  the  local  Raja,  known  as  the  Hangar  chief,  played  his  part  in 
all  the  disturbances  of  the  time.  The  Portuguese,  attracted  by  trade, 
seized  the  town  in  a.d.  1596,  and  maintained  a  footing  for  the  next 
two  centuries  with  varying  success.  To  Haidar,  with  his  ambitious  naval 
schemes,  Mangalore  was  both  strategically  and  politically  important. 
On  the  fall  of  Bednur  he  at  once  seized  it  (1763),  and  established 
dockyards  and  an  arsenal.  Captured  by  the  British  and  abandoned 
in  1768,  it  was  again  taken  by  them  in  1781.  Surrendered  to  Tipu 
after  an  heroic  defence  by  Colonel  Campbell  in  1784,  it  finally  fell  to 
the  British  in  1799. 

Ibn  Batuta  mentions  the  commerce  of  Mangalore  with  the  Persian 
Gulf  as  far  back  as  1342.  It  is  now  the  centre  of  the  commercial  and 
industrial  enterprise  of  the  District.  Tile-making,  introduced  by  the 
Basel  Mission,  which  has  two  factories  in  the  town,  is  carried  on  by 
another  European  firm  and  nine  native  merchants  as  well  ;  and  the 
exports  of  tiles  are  valued  at  3^  lakhs.  The  town  also  contains  a  well- 
known  weaving  establishment  belonging  to  the  Basel  Mission,  as  well 
as  a  mechanical  workshop  of  theirs,  and  three  printing  presses.  Coffee 
is  the  chief  article  of  export,  the  amount  sent  out  being  valued  at 
48  lakhs  annually.  It  is  all  brought  from  Mysore  and  Coorg  to 
Mangalore  to  be  cured,  an  industry  in  which  four  European  and  three 
native  firms  are  engaged.  The  other  articles  exported  are  areca-nuts 
and  spices  (11  lakhs),  rice  {Z\  lakhs),  and  salted  fish  (2§  lakhs).  The 
total  value  of  the  exports  amounts  to  S6-|  lakhs  annually.  Of  the 
imports,  valued  at  39^  lakhs,  piece-goods  (5^ -lakhs),  salt  (4^  lakh-), 
rain  and  pulse  (3A  lakhs),  and  liquor  (2^  lakhs)  are  the  most  important 
items.  Steamers  and  large  vessels  are  obliged  to  anchor  uutside  the 
backwater,  but  the  Arabian  buggalows  and  country  craft,  of  which  more 
than  2,000  enter  annually,  can  cross  the  bar.  Reclamations  and 
improvements,  including  a  pier  and  tramway,  have  lately  been  com- 
pleted at  the  wharves  at  a  cost  of  Rs.  70,000.  The  St.  Aloysius 
College  (first  grade),  founded  by  the  Jesuit  Mission  in  1880,  and  the 
Government  College  (second  grade)  are  the  chief  educational  institu- 
tions. The  former  has  an  average  attendance  of  460  students,  oi 
whom  60  are  reading  in  the  college  classes.  Mangalore  was  constituted 
a  municipality  in  1896.  The  receipts  and  expenditure  during  the  ten 
years  ending  1902-3  averaged  Rs.  48,600  and  Rs.  48,200  respectively. 
In  1903-4  the  corresponding  figures  were  Rs.  66,400  and  Rs.  63,000, 
the  chief  items  in  the  receipts  being  the  taxes  on  houses  and  land  and 
a  grant  from  Government.  There  are  two  municipal  hospitals  with  ^2 
beds  for  in-patients,  and  also  two  private  leper  asylums.  A  drainage 
scheme  for  the  western  portion  of  the  town,  the  estimated  cost  of  which 
is  Rs.  1,46,000,  is  under  consideration.  An  extension  of  the  Madras 
Railway  from  Kumbla  to  Mangalore  (21  miles)  will  shortly  be  opened. 


& 


i78 


MANGALVEDHA 


Mangalvedha. —  Head-quarters  of  the  subdivision  of  the  same  name 
in  the  State  of  Sangli,  Bombay,  situated  in  170  31'  N.  and  750  29'  E., 
between  the  angle  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Bhlma  and  the  Man, 
about  13  miles  south  of  Pandharpur  and  15  miles  north-east  of  Sangli 
town.  Population  (1901),  8,397.  Mangalvedha  was  founded  before 
the  Muhammadan  period  by  a  Hindu  prince  named  Mangal,  whose 
capital  it  was.  Judging  from  the  remains  of  an  old  temple,  the  place 
must  have  been  of  some  importance  and  wealth.  After  its  destruction 
by  the  Muhammadans,  the  materials  were  used  in  building  the  fort  in 
the  centre  of  the  town.  The  town  is  administered  as  a  municipality, 
with  an  income  in  1903-4  of  Rs.  4,000.  The  fort  contains  the  Jama 
Masjid  and  a  citadel  known  as  the  Chauburji,  said  to  have  been  built 
by  the  Pandhres  who  were  in  charge  of  the  pargana  under  the  Satara 
Rajas  (1720-50).     The  town  contains  a  dispensary. 

Mangaon.  -  Eastern  taluka  of  Kolaba  District,  Bombay,  lying  between 
i8°6'and  i8°30/N.and  73°3'and  730  26'  E.,  with  an  area  of  352  square 
miles.  There  are  226  villages,  but  no  town.  The  population  in  1901 
was  83,415,  compared  with  83,837  in  1891.  The  density,  237  persons 
per  square  mile,  is  much  below  the  District  average.  The  demand  for 
land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  1-69  lakhs,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  10,000. 
The  head-quarters  are  at  Mangaon  village.  The  Mandad  river  flows 
through  the  north  and  west  of  the  taluka,  and  the  Ghod  through  the 
centre.  Except  in  the  south,  the  country  is  broken  up  by  a  number  of 
detached  hills.  The  rainfall  during  the  ten  years  ending  1903  averaged 
136  inches.  Except  in  some  of  the  western  uplands,  where  the  sea- 
breeze  is  felt,  Mangaon  is  hot  during  the  summer. 

Manglaur.— Town  in  the  Roorkee  tahsil  of  Saharanpur  District, 
United  Provinces,  situated  in  290  48'  N.  and  770  53'  E.,  6  miles  south 
of  Roorkee  town  and  close  to  the  Upper  Ganges  Canal.  Population 
(1901),  10,763.  According  to  tradition,  the  town  was  founded  by 
Raja  Mangal  Sen,  a  Rajput  feudatory  of  Yikramaditya,  and  the  remains 
of  a  fortress  attributed  to  him  can  still  be  traced.  A  mosque  in  the 
town  was  built  by  Balban  in  1285.  There  is  little  trade ;  but  the  crops 
grown  in  the  neighbourhood  are  irrigated  from  the  canal  and  are 
exceptionally  fine,  and  there  is  a  great  demand  for  manure.  The  place 
was  formerly  noted  for  carpentry.  This  industry,  which  had  begun  to 
decline,  has  now  revived ;  and  very  good  chairs  and  other  articles  are 
made.  The  Muhammadan  weavers  are  much  impoverished.  Manglaur 
is  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about 
Rs.  3,500.     Much  has  been  clone  to  improve  its  sanitary  condition. 

Manglon.  — One  of  the  Northern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  astride 


the  Salween,  between  210  31'  and 


22°    54' 


N.  and  980  20'  and 


99" 

18'  E.,  and   having,  with   its  sub-feudatory   States,  an  area  of  about 

3,000  square  miles.     It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  South  Hsenwi  and 


MANGLON  i79 

the  Wa  States  ;  on  the  east  by  the  Wa  States,  China,  and  the  Southern 
Shan  States  of  Kengtung  (from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Nam  Hka 
river)  ;  on  the  south  by  Mdngnawng  ;  on  the  west  by  Mongnawng, 
Monghsu,  Kehsi  Mansam,  and  South  Hsenwi.  The  State  proper  is 
divided  into  East  and  West  Manglon  by  the  Salween ;  and  the  Sawbwa 
has  control  over  the  sub-States  of  Mothai  in  the  extreme  north  and 
Mawhpa  in  the  extreme  south  (both  lying  almost  entirely  east  of  the 
Salween),  also  of  Manghseng  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Salween,  and 
Ngekting  east  of  it.  The  country  east  of  the  Salween  consists,  in  the 
south,  of  the  broad  mountain  mass  separating  the  valleys  of  the  Salween 
and  its  important  tributary  the  Nam  Hka.  The  northern  part  is 
drained  by  short  tributaries  of  the  Salween,  and  is  composed  of  steep 
hills  and  deep  narrow  valleys.  West  Manglon  is  a  narrow  strip  of  hill 
country,  little  wider  than  the  ridge  following  the  Salween  river,  and 
cut  up  by  a  number  of  narrow  valleys. 

The  authentic  history  of  Manglon  begins  about  eighty  years  ago  with 
the  rise  of  a  Wa  chief,  Ta  Awng,  who  retained  his  hold  on  the  State 
by  becoming  tributary  to  Hsenwi.  At  the  time  of  annexation,  trans- 
Salween  Manglon  was  in  charge  of  a  Sawbwa  named  Ton  Hsang,  the 
cis-Salween  territory  being  administered  by  the  Sawbwa's  brother,  Sao 
Maha.  Considerable  difficulty  was  experienced  by  the  British  in 
dealing  with  the  latter,  who  refused  to  attend  the  darbar  at  Mongyai 
in  1 88 1.  Acting  under  the  influence  of  Sao  Weng,  the  ex-Sawbwa  of 
Lawksawk,  he  persistently  refused  to  come  in,  and  deserted  his  State 
in  1892  when  a  British  party  marched  through  it.  Ton  Hsang  was 
then  put  in  charge  of  West  Manglon  as  well  as  of  his  own  country  east 
of  the  Salween,  but  had  to  suffer  an  attack  by  Sao  Maha  immediately 
afterwards.  One  more  chance  of  reforming  was  given  to  the  latter  and 
he  was  then  definitely  expelled,  and  West  Manglon  has  since  remained 
undisturbed  in  Ton  Hsang's  charge.  East  Manglon  has  suffered  from 
time  to  time  from  raids  on  the  part  of  the  independent  Wa  chiefs  to 
the  east,  but  the  State  as  a  whole  is  gradually  settling  down.  The 
exact  population  is  not  known,  as  the  State  was  wholly  omitted  from 
the  census  operations  in  1901  ;  but  it  is  probably  not  below  40,000. 
The  inhabitants  of  East  Manglon  and  of  the  sub-States  are  mainly 
Was,  the  Shans  being  confined  to  the  valleys;  West  Manglon  is  almost 
wholly  Shan.  Lisaws  and  Chinese  are  found  on  both  sides  of  the 
Salween,  and  Palaungs  in  West  Manglon.  The  capital,  Takiit,  is 
situated  in  the  mountains  of  Mast  Manglon,  but  some  of  the  officials 
reside  at  Pangyang  a  few  miles  to  the  south.  The  revenue  consists 
entirely  of  thathameda,  amounting  in  1903-4  to  Rs.  11,000.  Of  this 
Rs.  4,200  went  to  the  privy  purse,  and  Rs.  4,200  towards  administra- 
tion and  salaries,  and  Rs.  2,000  was  spent  on  public  works.  The 
tribute   to  the   British  Government  is  only   Rs.  500. 


180  MANGO  LI 

Mangoli. — Village  in  the  Bagevadi  taluka  of  Bijapur  District, 
Bombay,  situated  in  i6°  40"  N.  and  750  54'  E..  15  miles  south-east  of 
Bijapur  town.  Population  (1901),  5,287.  It  was  formerly  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Bagevadi  taluka,  but  has  now  declined  in  importance. 
The  country  round  Mangoli  is  very  fertile,  and  the  village  exports 
a  good  deal  of  wheat,  cotton,  linseed,  and  jowar. 

Mangrol  {Mangarol  Bandar,  apparently  the  Monoglossum  of 
Ptolemy)  (1). — Seaport  in  the  State  of  Junagarh,  Kathiawar,  Bombay, 
situated  in  21°  8'  N.  and  700  14'  E.,  on  the  south-west  coast,  a  mile 
and  a  half  north-east  from  the  bandar,  which  is  washed  by  the  Arabian 
Sea.  Population  (1901),  15,016.  The  mosque  here  is  the  finest  in 
Kathiawar.  A  tablet  in  one  part  of  the  building  records  the  date  of 
its  foundation  as  1383.  The  town  belongs  to  a  petty  Musalman  chief, 
styled  the  Shaikh  of  Mangrol,  who  pays  a  tribute  of  Rs.  11,500  to  the 
Nawab  of  Junagarh.  The  harbour  is  much  exposed,  being  open  to  all 
but  north-east  and  north-west  winds,  and  will  not  admit  more  than 
three  or  four  kotiychs  or  native  vessels  at  a  time.  Soundings  are 
regular,  over  a  muddy  but  rocky  bottom,  from  one  to  one  and  a  half 
mile  off  shore.  There  is  a  manufacture  of  ivory  and  sandal-wood 
inlaid  boxes,  and  the  ironsmiths  are  famous  for  their  skill.  The  musk- 
melons  grown  here  are  celebrated.  A  lighthouse,  75  feet  above  high- 
water  mark,  shows  a  fixed  light  visible  4  miles  at  sea.  The  shrine 
of  Kamnath  Mahadeo,  situated  about  5  miles  from  the  town,  is  visited 
annually  on  the  15th  of  the  bright  half  of  the  month  of  Kartik 
(November)  and  the  last  day  of  the  dark  half  of  the  month  of  Shravan 
(August).  There  is  a  well  at  a  distance  of  about  200  yards.  The 
land  surrounding  this  well  forms  a  tract  of  about  5  or  6  miles  in 
circumference,  and  is  called  Labur  Kua.  Excellent  cotton  is  grown 
here,  which  finds  a  ready  sale  in  the  Bombay  market.  Betel-vine 
plantations  have  been  in  existence  for  about  thirty  years. 

Mangrol  (2).—  Head-quarters  of  the  district  of  the  same  name  in  the 
State  of  Kotah,  Rajputana,  situated  in  250  20'  N.  and  700  31'  E.,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Banganga,  a  tributary  of  the  Parbati,  about 
44  miles  north-east  of  Kotah  city.  The  town  is  a  commercial  mart 
of  some  importance,  with  a  population  in  1901  of  5,156.  It  possesses 
a  post  office,  a  vernacular  school,  and  a  hospital  with  accommodation 
for  six  in-patients.  Mangrol  is  the  site  of  a  battle  fought  in  1821 
between  Maharao  Kishor  Singh  of  Kotah  and  his  minister  Zalim  Singh, 
assisted  by  a  detachment  of  British  troops.  The  Maharao  was  defeated, 
and  his  brother  Prithwl  Singh  was  killed.  A  mausoleum  constructed 
where  the  body  of  the  latter  was  burnt  still  exists  close  to  the  river,, 
while  to  the  east  of  the  town  are  the  tombs  of  two  British  officers 
(Lieutenants  Clarke  and  Read  of  the  4th  Light  Cavalry)  who  fell  in 
this  engagement.     Three  miles  to  the  south  is  the  village  of  Bhatwara, 


MANIAR  181 

where  the  Kotah  troops  defeated  a  much  stronger  army  from  Jaipur 
in  1 761,  and  captured  the  latter's  five-coloured  banner.  The  valour 
and  skill  of  Zalim  Singh  (then  Faujdar  of  Kotah)  contributed  greatly 
to  the  victory,  which  put  an  end  to  Jaipur's  pretensions  to  supremacy 
over  the  Hara  Rajputs.  Ten  miles  to  the  west  of  Mangrol  is  the 
ancient  village  of  Siswali,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  the  Gaur 
Rajputs  of  Sheopur.  The  Chhipas  of  the  place  carry  on  a  fairly  large 
trade  in  dyed  cloths. 

Mangrul  Taluk. — Formerly  a  taluk  of  Basim  District,  but  since 
August,  1905,  the  south-eastern  taluk  of  Akola  District,  Berar,  lying 
between  200  4'  and  2oc  8o'  N.  and  770  9'  and  77°  42'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  630  square  miles.  The  population  rose  from  82,446  in  1891  to 
91,062  in  1901,  its  density,  144  persons  per  square  mile,  being  the 
lowest  in  the  District.  The  taluk  contains  202  villages  and  onlv  one 
town,  Mangrul  Pir  (population,  5,793).  The  demand  for  land 
revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  1,68,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  13.000.  The 
taluk  lies  in  the  Balaghat,  or  southern  plateau  of  Berar,  and  its  most 
fertile  tracts  are  those  in  the  valleys  of  the  streams  running  south- 
wards to  the  Peiiganga  river. 

Mangrul  Town  (1). — Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name, 
Akola  District,  Berar,  situated  in  20°  19'  N.  and  770  24'  E.  Popula- 
tion (1901),  5,793.  The  town  is  distinguished  from  many  other  places 
of  the  same  name  by  the  epithet  Pir,  which  has  reference  either  to  the 
shrine  of  Hayat  Kalandar.  or  to  the  shrines  of  several  minor  saints 
buried  here.  The  real  name  of  Hayat  Kalandar  is  said  to  have  been 
Shah  Badr-ud-din.  and  he  was  also  known  as  Baba  Budhan  and  Saiyid 
Ahmad  Kabir.  His  native  place  is  said  to  have  been  Bataih  in  Rum 
(Asia  Minor),  and  he  is  said  to  have  died  in  1253.  The  shrine  at 
Mangrul  must  therefore  be  a  cenotaph  ;  and  it  is  believed  not  to  be 
more  than  about  four  hundred  years  old.  Of  the  minor  saints  buried 
here,  none  has  any  celebrity  beyond  the  neighbourhood. 

Mangrul  Town  (2).— Town  in  the  Chandur  taluk  of  Amraoti  Dis- 
trict, Berar,  situated  in  200  36'  N.  and  770  52'  E.  Population  (1901), 
6,588.  The  town  is  distinguished  from  other  towns  and  villages  of 
the  same  name  by  the  epithet  Dastglr. 

Maniar. — Town  in  the  Bansdih  tahsll  of  Ballia  District,  United 
Provinces,  situated  in  250  59'  N.  and  840  n'  E.,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Gogra.  Population  (1901),  9,483.  The  houses  of  Maniar 
cluster  round  high  artificial  mounds,  formerly  the  sites  of  the  fortified 
residences  of  the  principal  zamindars,  but  now  waste  and  bare.  It  has 
no  main  thoroughfares,  nor  does  it  possess  any  public  buildings.  Its 
importance  is  derived  from  its  position  as  a  port  on  the  Gogra,  through 
which  rice  and  other  grains  are  imported  from  Gorakhpur,  Basti,  and 
Nepal,    while    sugar   and    coarse    cotton    cloth    of   local    manufacture 


1 82  MANIAR 

and  oilseeds  are  exported  to  Bengal.  Maniar  is  administered  under 
Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  Rs.  1,500.  There  is  a  school 
with  50  pupils. 

Manihari.— Village  in  the  head-quarters  subdivision  of  Purnea  Dis- 
trict, Bengal,  situated  in  250  20'  N.  and  870  37'  E.,  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Ganges.  Population  (1901),  3,759.  It  is  a  terminus  of  the 
Bihar  section  of  the  Eastern  Bengal  State  Railway,  connected  by  ferry 
steamer  with  the  East  Indian  Railway  station  at  Sakrigali  Ghat,  and 
a  place  of  call  for  river  steamers. 

Manikarchar.— Village  in  the  extreme  south-west  of  Goalpara 
District,  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  situated  in  250  32'  N.  and  890 
53'  E.,  near  the  Garo  Hills  frontier.  Population  (1901),  3,870.  The 
village  contains  a  large  bazar,  and  a  bi-weekly  market,  where  a  con- 
siderable trade  is  carried  on  in  cotton  and  other  products  of  the  Garo 
Hills,  jute,  and  mustard.  The  principal  merchants  are  Marwaris  from 
Rajputana  and  Muhammadans  from  Dacca.  The  public  buildings 
include  a  dispensary. 

Manikcheri. — Village  in  the  Chittagong  Hill  Tracts,  Eastern  Bengal 
and  Assam,  situated  in  220  51"  N.  and  910  51'  E.,  on  a  stream  of  the 
same  name.  Population  (1901),  1,356.  It  is  the  residence  of  the 
Mong  Raja. 

Manikganj  Subdivision. — Western  subdivision  of  Dacca  District, 
Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  lying  between  23°  37'  and  240  2'  N.  and 
890  45'  and  900  15'  E.,  with  an  area  of  489  square  miles.  The  sub- 
division is  a  level  alluvial  plain,  bounded  on  the  west  and  south  by  the 
Padma.  The  population  in  1901  was  468,942,  compared  with  448,927 
in  1 89 1,  the  density  being  959  persons  per  square  mile.  It  contains 
1,461  villages,  but  no  town.  Since  1861,  when  the  town  of  Manikganj 
was  swept  away  by  flood,  the  head-quarters  have  been  at  Dasara, 
a  village  2  miles  to  the  south  of  the  old  site.  There  is  a  large  mart 
at  Jaglr  Hat,  2  miles  from  the  subdivisional  head-quarters. 

Manikiala. — Village  and  group  of  ruins  in  the  District  and  tahsll 
of  Rawalpindi,  Punjab,  situated  in  $£  27'  N.  and  730  17'  E.,  midway 
between  Hassan  Abdal  and  Jhelum.  Population  (1901),  734.  The 
remains  consist  of  a  great  tope  or  stupa  south  of  the  modern  village, 
together  with  fourteen  smaller  buildings  of  the  same  class,  fifteen 
monasteries,  and  many  isolated  massive  stone  walls.  Eocal  tradition 
connects  these  ruins  with  the  name  of  an  eponymous  Raja,  Man  or 
Manik,  who  built  the  great  stupa.  According  to  the  current  legend, 
an  ancient  city  named  Manikpur  stood  upon  the  site,  inhabited  by 
seven  Rakshasas  or  demons.  Rasalu,  son  of  Salivahana,  Raja  of 
Sialkot,  was  the  enemy  of  these  demons,  who  daily  devoured  by  lot 
one  of  the  people  of  Manikpur.  Accordingly,  Rasalu  once  took  the 
place  of  the  victim,  went  out  to  meet  the  demons,  and  slew  them  all 


MANIKTALA  183 

save  one,  who  still  lives  in  the  cavern  of  Gandgarh.  In  this  legend 
Sir  Alexander  Cunningham  saw  a  Hinduized  version  of  the  Buddhist 
story,  in  which  Gautama  Buddha  offers  up  his  body  to  appease  the 
hunger  of  seven  tiger  cubs.  Hiuen  Tsiang  places  the  scene  of  this 
legend  south-east  of  Shahdheri,  which  agrees  with  the  bearing  of 
Manikiala  from  the  latter  ruins.  At  this  spot  stood  the  famous  stupa 
of  the  '  body-offering,'  one  of  the  four  great  stupas  of  North-Western 
India.  The  stupa  was  explored  by  General  Court  in  1834,  and 
Cunningham  states  that  the  inscription  on  it  twice  makes  mention  of 
the  sacrifice  of  Buddha's  body.  All  the  existing  remains  present  the 
appearance  of  religious  buildings,  without  any  trace  of  a  city  or  fortress. 
The  people  point  to  the  high  ground  immediately  west  of  the  great 
stupa  as  the  site  of  Raja  Man's  palace,  because  pieces  of  plaster  occur 
there  only  among  the  ruins  ;  but  the  Satraps  of  Taxila  may  very 
probably  have  taken  up  their  residence  upon  this  spot  when  they  came 
to  worship  at  the  famous  shrine.  A  town  of  1,500  or  2,000  houses 
may  also  have  extended  northward,  and  occupied  the  whole  rising 
ground  now  covered  by  the  village  of  Manikiala.  But  the  place  must 
be  regarded  as  mainly  an  ancient  religious  centre,  full  of  costly 
monasteries  and  shrines,  with  massive  walls  of  cut  stone.  The  people 
unanimously  affirm  that  the  city  was  destroyed  by  fire,  and  the  quantity 
of  charcoal  and  ashes  found  among  the  ruins  strongly  confirms  their 
belief.  Manikiala  is  one  of  the  sites  for  which  is  claimed  the  honour 
of  being  the  burial-place  of  Alexander's  horse  Bucephalus. 

Maniktala. — Town  in  the  District  of  the  Twenty-four  Parganas, 
Bengal,  situated  in  220  35'  X.  and  88°  23'  E.  Population  (1901), 
32,387,  of  whom  Hindus  numbered  22,792,  Musalmans  9,512,  and 
Christians  65.  Maniktala  is  the  great  eastern  industrial  suburb  of 
Calcutta,  wedged  in  between  the  Circular  Canal  on  the  west,  the  New 
Cut  on  the  east,  and  the  Beliaghata  Canal  on  the  south.  Beliaghata 
in  the  south  of  the  town  is  the  seat  of  an  extensive  trade  in  rice 
imported  from  the  eastern  Districts,  while  along  the  frontage  of  the 
Circular  Canal  a  brisk  business  is  done  in  firewood,  loose  jute,  and 
rice.  The  other  important  wards  are  Ultadanga  and  Narikeldanga. 
Factories  are  numerous,  including  a  jute  mill,  a  silk  factory,  bone- 
crushing  mills,  shellac,  saltpetre,  castor-oil,  and  soap  factories,  and  four 
tanneries.  The  nursery  gardens  of  two  Calcutta  florists  are  situated 
in  the  town,  which  is  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Commissioner  of 
Police,  Calcutta,  and  forms  part  of  the  '  Suburbs  of  Calcutta '  sub- 
division. Maniktala  was  comprised  in  the  Suburban  municipality  until 
1889,  when  it  was  constituted  a  separate  municipality.  The  income 
during  the  decade  ending  1 901-2  averaged  Rs.  63,000,  and  the 
expenditure  Rs.  59,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  2,14,000, 
including  a  loan  of  Rs.  25,000  from  Government,  Rs.  31,000  derived 


1 84  MANIKTALA 

from  a  tax  on  houses  and  lands,  Rs.  18,000  from  a  conservancy  rate, 
and  Rs.  7,000  from  a  tax  on  vehicles.  The  incidence  of  taxation  was 
Rs.  2- 1- 10  per  head  of  the  population.  In  the  same  year  the  chief 
items  of  expenditure  were  Rs.  5,000  spent  on  lighting,  Rs.  3,000  on 
drainage,  Rs.  23,000  on  conservancy,  Rs.  1,800  on  medical  relief, 
Rs.  16,000  on  roads,  and  Rs.  1,300  on  education  ;  total,  Rs.  74,000. 

Manipur.  —  Native  State  lying  to  the  east  of  the  Province  of 
Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  between  230  50'  and  250  41'  N.  and  930  2' 
and  940  47"  E.,  with  an  area  of  8,456  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  the  Naga  Hills  District  and  by  hilly  country  inhabited 
by  tribes  of  independent  Nagas ;  on  the  east  by  independent  territory 
and  Burma ;  on  the  south  by  Burma  and  the  Lushai  Hills  ;  and  on  the 
west  by  the  District  of  Cachar.  The  State  consists  of  a  great  tract 
of  hilly  country,  and  a  valley  about  30  miles  long  and 
aspects.  2°  m^es  wide,  shut  in  on  every  side.     The  general 

direction  of  these  ranges  is  north  and  south,  but  in 
places  they  are  connected  by  spurs  and  occasional  ridges  of  lower 
elevation.  The  greatest  altitude  is  reached  to  the  north-east,  about 
fifteen  days'  journey  from  the  Manipur  valley,  where  peaks  rise  upwards 
of  13,000  feet  above  sea-level.  To  the  north  of  this  the  hills  gradually 
decrease  in  height  till  they  sink  into  the  flat  plains  of  the  Assam 
Valley.  Southwards,  too,  there  is  a  gradual  decline  in  altitude  till  the 
sea  is  reached  near  Chittagong  and  Arakan.  The  general  appearance 
of  the  hill  ranges  is  that  of  irregular  ridges,  occasionally  rising  into 
conical  peaks  and  flattened  ridges  of  bare  rocks.  Sometimes,  as  in  the 
western  ranges  of  hills  overlooking  the  Manipur  valley,  the  summit 
of  the  hills  presents  a  more  open  and  rolling  character. 

The  journey  through  the  hills  from  Cachar  to  Manipur  is  one  of 
great  interest.  The  path  crosses  five  considerable  ranges,  covered  with 
forest  and  separated  from  one  another  by  deep  river  valleys,  and  thus 
possesses  all  the  attractions  which  are  conferred  by  stately  timber, 
luxuriant  undergrowth  of  bamboos,  creepers,  and  giant  ferns,  bold 
cliffs,  and  rivers  rushing  through  wild  gorges.  The  general  appearance 
of  the  valley,  as  the  traveller  descends  from  the  hills,  has  much  to 
please  the  eye.  On  every  side  it  is  shut  in  by  blue  mountains.  To 
the  south  the  waters  of  the  Eoktak  Lake  sparkle  in  the  sun,  and  all  the 
country  in  the  neighbourhood  is  covered  with  waving  jungle  grass. 
Farther  east  the  villages  of  the  Manipuris  are  to  be  seen  buried  in 
clumps  of  bamboos  and  fruit  trees,  and  lining  the  banks  of  the  rivers 
that  meander  through  the  plain.  The  jungle  gives  way  to  wide 
stretches  of  rice  cultivation,  interspersed  with  grazing  grounds  and 
swamps,  and  to  the  north-east  are  the  dense  groves  which  conceal  the 
town  of  Imphal. 

The  principal  rivers    of  the  valley  are   the    Imphal,   Iril,   Thobal, 


M ANT  PUR  1S5 

Nambal,  and  Nambol.  The  last  named  river  Tails  into  the  Loktak 
Lake,  from  which  it  emerges  under  the  name  of  Kortak.  This  stream 
eventually  joins  the  Imphul  and  the  Nambal,  and  their  united  waters, 
which  are  known  as  the  Achauba,  Imphal,  or  Manipur  river,  finally  fall 
into  the  Kendat  and  thus  into  the  Chindwin.  The  chief  rivers  crossed 
in  the  hills  by  the  traveller  from  Cachar  are  the  Jiri,  the  Makru,  the 
Barak,  the  Irang,  the  Lengba,  and  the  Laimatak.  The  Jiri,  which 
forms  the  boundary  between  British  territory  and  Manipur,  is  about 
40  yards  wide  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  Government  road,  and  is 
fordable  in  the  dry  season.  The  Makru,  which  runs  parallel  with  the 
Jiri,  has  a  very  clear  stream,  and  is  also  fordable  in  the  dry  season. 
The  Barak  is  the  largest  and  most  important  river  in  the  Manipur  hill 
territory  ;  it  receives  the  Makru,  the  Irang,  the  Tipai  river,  which  flows 
north  from  the  Lushai  country,  and  finally  the  Jiri.  It  is  said  to  be 
navigable  for  canoes  for  about  one  day  above  its  junction  with  the 
Tipai.  The  rivers  in  the  plains  are  navigable  by  dug-out  canoes  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year.  It  was  at  one  time  thought  that  the  Manipur 
valley  originally  consisted  of  a  large  lake  basin,  which  gradually  con- 
tracted in  size  until  nothing  remains  but  the  Loktak,  a  sheet  of  water 
about  8  miles  long  and  5  miles  wide,  which  occupies  the  south-eastern 
corner  of  the  valley.  Further  investigations  by  competent  geologists 
have  shown  that  this  hypothesis  is  not  correct. 

The  soil  of  the  valley  is  an  alluvial  clay  washed  down  from  the 
surrounding  hills.  The  mountains  to  the  north  are  largely  composed 
of  Pre-Tertiary  slates  and  sandstones,  with  Upper  Tertiary  deposits  on 
the  higher  ridges  and  on  the  hills  overhanging  the  Chindwin  valley. 

The  inner  hills  are  clothed  with  forest,  but  the  slopes  of  the  Laimatol 
range,  which  overlook  the  valley  on  the  west,  are  only  covered  with 
grass.  In  the  valley  itself  there  is  little  tree  growth.  A  great  portion 
of  the  plain  is  cultivated  with  rice,  but  near  the  Loktak  Lake  there  are 
wide  stretches  of  grass  jungle. 

Wild  animals  are  fairly  common,  and  include  elephants,  tigers, 
leopards,  bears,  deer,  and  wild  hog.  Rhinoceros  and  bison  {Bos 
gaurus)  are  also  found  in  the  hills  to  the  south-east,  but  are  not 
common,  and  serow  or  goat-antelope  are  occasionally  met  with  on  the 
higher  ranges.  Hog,  leopards,  and  deer  are  the  only  animals  to  be 
seen  in  large  numbers  in  the  plains.  Elephants  used  at  one  time  to 
be  regularly  hunted,  but  the  herds  have  been  considerably  reduced  in 
numbers,  and  these  operations  are  no  longer  profitable.  Large  flocks 
of  wild  geese  and  ducks  are  to  be  found  on  the  Loktak  Lake,  and 
partridge,  pheasant,  and  jungle-fowl  are  common. 

The  valley  lies  about  2,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the 
climate  is  cool  and  pleasant.  At  the  hottest  season  the  nights  and 
morning's   are   always   cool.      In    the  winter   there   are   sharp   frosts  at 


186  MA  NT  PUR 

night,  and  heavy  fogs  often  hang  over  the  valley  till  the  day  is  well 
advanced.  The  annual  rainfall  at  Imphal  town  averages  about  70 
inches ;  in  the  hills  it  is  believed  to  be  as  much  as  roo  inches. 

Manipur,  like  the  neighbouring  Province  of  Assam,  is  subject  to 
seismic  disturbances.  A  severe  shock  occurred  in  1869  ;  but  the  earth- 
quake of  1897,  which  did  so  much  damage  in  other  parts  of  Eastern 
India,  was  only  slightly  felt. 

The  origin  of  the  Manipuri  people  is  obscure,  and  the  written 
records,  having  been  mainly  composed  since  they  became  Hindus,  are 
not  worthy  of  credit.  From  the  most  trustworthy 
traditions,  the  valley  appears  originally  to  have  been 
occupied  by  several  tribes,  which  came  from  different  directions. 
Although  the  general  facial  characteristics  of  the  Manipuris  are  Mon- 
golian, there  is  great  diversity  of  feature  among  them,  some  showing 
a  regularity  approaching  the  Aryan  type.  The  kingdom  of  Manipur 
first  emerges  from  obscurity  as  a  neighbour  and  ally  of  the  Shan 
kingdom  of  Pong,  which  had  its  capital  at  Mogaung.  The  regalia  of 
the  royal  family  are  said  to  have  been  bestowed  by  king  Komba 
of  Pong.  The  history  of  Manipur  contains  nothing  of  special  interest 
until  about  a.  d.  17 14.  In  that  year  a  Naga  named  Panheiba  became 
Raja  of  Manipur,  and  adopted  Hinduism,  taking  the  name  of  Gharib 
Nawaz.  His  people  followed  his  example,  and  since  that  date  have 
been  conspicuous  for  the  rigidity  with  which  they  observe  the  rules 
of  caste  and  ceremonial  purity. 

Gharib  Nawaz  made  several  successful  invasions  into  Burma,  but  no 
permanent  conquest.  After  his  death,  the  Burmans  invaded  Manipur, 
and  the  ruler,  Jai  Singh,  having  sought  the  aid  of  the  British,  a  treaty 
of  alliance  was  negotiated  in  1762.  The  force  sent  to  assist  Manipur 
was,  however,  recalled,  and  after  this  little  communication  passed 
between  the  British  Government  and  the  State  for  some  years.  On 
the  outbreak  of  the  first  Burmese  War  in  1824,  the  Burmans  invaded 
Cachar  and  Assam,  as  well  as  Manipur ;  and  Gambhir  Singh  of  Mani- 
pur asked  for  British  aid,  which  was  granted.  A  force  of  sepoys  and 
artillery  being  sent  towards  Cachar,  and  a  levy  of  Manipuris  being 
formed  under  British  officers,  not  only  were  the  Burmans  expelled  from 
the  Manipur  valley,  but  the  Kubo  valley  down  to  the  Ningthi  river, 
situated  to  the  east  of  the  old  boundaries,  and  peopled  by  Shans,  was 
added  to  the  State.  In  1826  peace  was  concluded  with  Burma,  and 
Manipur  was  declared  independent.  Until  1834,  when  Gambhir  Singh 
died,  the  country  remained  quiet  and  prosperous.  On  his  death,  his 
son  being  at  the  time  only  one  year  old,  Nar  Singh,  his  uncle  and 
great-grandson  of  Gharib  Nawaz,  was  appointed  regent.  In  1834  the 
British  Government  decided  to  restore  the  Kubo  valley  to  Burma, 
the  government  of  which  had  never  ceased  to  remonstrate  against  its 


HISTORY  187 

separation  from  that  country.  The  valley  was  given  hack,  and  a  new 
boundary  laid  down  by  an  agreement  dated  January  9,  1834.  The 
British  Government  at  the  same  time  bound  itself  to  pay  to  the  Raja  of 
Manipur  an  annual  allowance  of  Rs.  6,370,  in  compensation  for  the  loss 
of  the  Kubo  valley.  In  1835  a  Political  Agent  was  appointed  to  act  as  a 
medium  of  communication  between  the  State  and  the  British  Government. 

An  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  on  Nar  Singh's  life  in  1844, 
and  the  Raja's  mother,  being  implicated,  fled  with  her  son,  Chandra 
Klrtti  Singh,  to  Cachar.  Nar  Singh  upon  this  assumed  the  throne, 
which  he  retained  until  his  death  in  1850.  Debendra  Singh,  his 
brother,  was  then  recognized  as  Raja  by  the  British  Government. 
Three  months  afterwards,  Chandra  Klrtti  Singh  invaded  Manipur,  and 
Debendra  Singh,  who  was  unpopular,  fled  towards  Cachar.  Chandra 
Klrtti  Singh,  having  established  his  authority,  was  in  February,  185 1, 
recognized  by  the  British  Government ;  and  though  numerous  attempts 
were  made  by  other  members  of  the  royal  family  to  head  a  rebellion, 
the  leaders  were  all  defeated,  and  either  killed,  imprisoned,  or  placed 
under  surveillance  in  British  territory.  In  1879,  when  the  Angami 
Nagas  killed  Mr.  Damant,  the  Deputy-Commissioner  of  the  Naga  Hills, 
and  besieged  the  stockade  at  Kohlma,  the  Maharaja  dispatched  a  force 
under  Colonel  Johnstone,  the  Political  Agent,  who  raised  the  siege. 
In  recognition  of  this  service,  the  Government  of  India  bestowed  upon 
the  Maharaja  the  dignity  of  K. C.S.I.  During  the  Burmese  War  of 
1885,  which  ended  in  the  annexation  of  king  Thlbaw's  dominions,  a 
small  force  under  Colonel  Johnstone  succeeded  in  rescuing  a  number 
of  British  subjects  and  Europeans  in  Northern  Burma.  In  the  course 
of  these  operations  the  Political  Agent  was  seriously  wounded,  and 
compelled  to  take  leave ;  and  his  successor,  Major  Trotter,  was  shortly 
afterwards  treacherously  attacked  near  Tammu,  and  received  a  wound 
which  caused  his  death  two  months  later. 

In  1886  Chandra  Klrtti  Singh  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son, 
Sur  Chandra  Singh.  As  on  previous  occasions,  a  series  of  attempts 
were  made  by  other  claimants  to  the  throne  to  oust  the  lawful  heir. 
The  first  two  expeditions  were  led  by  Bora  Chaoba  Singh,  a  son  of  the 
Nar  Singh  who  ruled  Manipur  from  1844  to  1850,  but  proved  un- 
successful. Two  more  attempts  were  made  in  1S87,  but  the  pretenders 
were  defeated  and  killed  and  their  followers  dispersed.  In  September, 
1890,  two  of  the  Maharaja's  brothers  attacked  the  palace,  and  Sur 
Chandra  Singh  fled  to  the  Residency  for  protection.  He  then  announced 
his  intention  of  resigning  the  throne,  and  left  Manipur  for  Cachar  en 
route  for  Brindaban.  His  younger  brother,  Kula  Chandra  Singh,  pro- 
claimed himself  Maharaja,  though  the  real  power  seems  to  have  lain  in 
the  hands  of  his  brother  Tikendrajit  Singh,  who  was  Senapati,  or 
commander-in-chief  of  the  Manipur  forces. 

vol.  xvir.  N 


r88  MA  NT  PUR 

On  reaching  British  territory,  Sur  Chandra  Singh  repudiated  his 
abdication,  and  applied  for  help.  It  was  decided  that  the  Jubraj, 
Kula  Chandra  Singh,  should  be  recognized  as  Maharaja,  but  that  the 
Senapati  should  be  removed  from  the  State  and  punished  for  his  law- 
less conduct ;  and  the  Chief  Commissioner  was  directed  to  visit  Mani- 
pur  early  in  March,  1891,  to  give  effect  to  these  orders.  Mr.  Quinton 
was  accompanied  by  an  escort  of  400  men  from  two  Gurkha  battalions, 
which,  in  addition  to  the  Political  Agent's  guard  of  100  men,  was 
thought  sufficient  to  check  any  attempt  at  opposition.  After  much 
deliberation,  the  Chief  Commissioner  determined  to  hold  a  darbar,  at 
which  the  orders  of  the  Government  of  India  were  to  be  announced 
and  the  Senapati  arrested.  The  latter,  however,  refused  to  appear,  and 
it  was  decided  to  arrest  him  on  March  24.  Troops  were  accordingly 
sent  to  his  house,  but  were  attacked,  and  Lieutenant  Brackenbury,  one 
of  the  officers  in  command,  was  killed.  Fighting  went  on  throughout 
the  day,  but  at  evening  an  armistice  was  agreed  to  and  the  Senapati 
invited  the  Chief  Commissioner  to  meet  him.  Mr.  Quinton,  accom- 
panied by  other  British  officers,  proceeded  to  the  rendezvous  and  then 
into  the  fort,  where  they  met  the  Senapati,  but  no  agreement  was 
concluded.  As  the  party  were  leaving,  their  way  was  barred,  Mr.  Grim- 
wood  was  fatally  speared,  and  Lieutenant  Simpson  severely  wounded. 
Mr.  Quinton  and  the  officers  with  him  were  detained  for  two  hours, 
and  were  then  marched  out  to  an  open  space,  and  beheaded  by  the 
public  executioner.  The  attack  upon  the  Residency  was  renewed,  but 
after  a  short  interval  the  British  force  drew  off  towards  Cachar,  which 
they  reached  without  serious  misadventure.  The  Superintendent  of 
Telegraphs,  Mr.  Melvill,  who  had  left  Imphal  for  Kohlma  before  the 
outbreak,  was  pursued  by  the  Manipuris,  and  both  he  and  a  European 
signaller  who  accompanied  him  were  killed. 

As  soon  as  news  of  the  disaster  was  received  at  Kohlma,  the  Deputy- 
Commissioner  marched  down  the  road  to  the  Manipur  boundary  and 
drove  back  the  rebels.  Lieutenant  Grant  also  advanced  from  Tammu 
with  80  men  to  within  14  miles  of  the  capital,  but  was  unable  to  proceed 
farther  and  was  recalled.  Three  British  columns  entered  the  State 
from  Burma,  Cachar,  and  the  Naga  Hills,  and  arrived  before  the  palace 
on  April  27,  to  find  that  the  Jubraj  and  the  Senapati  had  taken  flight. 
They  were,  however,  captured  ;  and  the  Senapati  and  several  of  the 
actual  murderers  were  tried  and  hanged,  while  Kula  Chandra  Singh 
and  the  other  ringleaders  were  deported  to  the  Andamans.  Chura  Chand, 
a  boy  belonging  to  a  collateral  branch  of  the  royal  house,  was  then  placed 
on  the  gaddi.  During  his  minority  the  State  has  been  administered 
by  the  Political  Agent,  and  numerous  reforms  have  been  introduced. 
In  1907  the  young  Maharaja,  who  had  been  educated  at  the  Ajmer 
College,  was  formally  installed. 


POP  IV..  IT/OX  r89 

The  disturbances  of  1891  led  to  an  outbreak  of  lawlessness  among 
the  hill  tribes  subject  to  Manipur.  No  less  than  eight  raids  were  com- 
mitted by  various  villages  on  one  another  within  the  year,  in  the  course 
of  which  104  lives  were  lost.  Murders  along  the  road  running  from 
Manipur  to  Kohima  were  common;  and  in  1893  the  Naga  village  of 
Swemi  was  raided  by  Kukis,  who  professed  to  have  been  incensed  at 
the  failure  of  the  Nagas  to  compensate  a  Kuki  chief  for  an  alleged  theft 
of  rice.  The  attack  was  delivered  at  dawn,  and  99  men  and  187  women 
and  children  were  put  to  the  sword.  In  1901  the  State  was  visited  by 
Lord  Curzon  as  Viceroy,  on  his  way  from  Cachar  to  Burma. 

The  first  Census  of  Manipur,  which  was  taken  in  1881,  disclosed  a 
population  of  221,070.  The  census  papers  of  1891  were  destroyed  in 
the  rising  that  took  place  in  that  year.  The  popu- 
lation in  1901  was  284,465,  giving  a  density  of  34  opu  a  ion. 
persons  per  square  mile.  The  whole  of  this  increase  was  due  to  natural 
growth,  there  being  practically  no  immigration  into  the  State.  ^Yomen 
exceed  men  in  numbers.  They  enjoy  a  position  of  considerable  im- 
portance, and  most  of  the  trade  of  the  valley  is  in  their  hands.  Of  the 
population  in  1901,  60  per  cent,  were  Hindus,  and  36  per  cent,  aborigi- 
nal tribes  still  faithful  to  their  own  primitive  forms  of  belief.  Muham- 
madans  formed  nearly  4  per  cent,  of  the  whole.  Manipuri  is  the 
ordinary  language  of  the  valley,  and  was  returned  by  64  per  cent,  of 
the  population,  but  in  the  hills  Naga  (21  per  cent.)  and  Kuki  (14  per 
cent.)  are  the  common  forms  of  speech.  The  State  contains  one  town, 
Imphal  (population,  67,093),  and  467  villages. 

The  mass  of  the  Hindu  population  describe  themselves  as  members 
of  the  Kshattriya  caste  (161,000),  though  the  Manipuris  have  been  con- 
verted within  comparatively  recent  times  to  Hinduism  ;  the  majority  of 
the  remainder  are  Brahmans. 

The  hill  tribes  fall  into  two  main  sections,  Kukis  and  Nagas.  Kuki 
is  a  generic  term  applied  to  tribes  whose  home  is  in  the  mountainous 
tract  lying  between  Burma,  Manipur,  Cachar,  and  Arakan.  These 
tribes  have  been  steadily  moving  northwards,  and  have  crossed  the 
Cachar  and  Manipur  valleys  and  settled  in  the  hills  beyond.  The  total 
number  of  Kukis  in  the  State  in  1901  was  41,000.  The  hills  that 
surround  the  valley  are  inhabited  by  various  tribes  of  Nagas  (59,000), 
of  whom  the  Tankuls  (20,000)  are  the  best  known.  The  men  of  this 
tribe,  when  working  in  the  fields  or  on  the  roads,  are  often  stark  naked 
except  for  a  small  bone  ring,  through  which  the  foreskin  is  drawn. 
Other  Naga  tribes  are  the  Kabui,  Koirao,  and  Maring.  The  Lois  arc  a 
low  caste,  not  even  dignified  by  the  name  of  Hindu.  They  are  probably 
descended  from  one  of  the  hill  tribes,  but  under  native  rule  the  degrada- 
tion of  a  Hindu  Manipuri  to  the  class  of  Loi  was  a  not  uncommon  form 
of  punishment.     Agriculture  is  the  main  occupation  of  the  people. 

N   2 


190  MANIPUR 

The  soil  of  the  valley  is  a  reddish  clay  of  considerable  depth,  which 
is  enriched  every  year  by  deposits  of  silt  from  the  rivers,  and  yields 
luxuriant  crops  of  rice.  The  system  of  cultivation 
does  not  differ  materially  from  that  followed  in  the 
plains  of  Assam.  The  staple  crop  is  rice,  of  which  there  are  two  main 
kinds  :  one  sown  on  high  land  in  March  or  April  and  cut  in  July  or 
August ;  and  the  other  sown  in  April  to  June,  transplanted  about  two 
months  later  into  beds  of  liquid  mud,  and  reaped  in  December.  Most 
of  the  rice  grown  belongs  to  the  second,  or  transplanted  Variety.  Other 
crops  include  mustard  and  sugar-cane,  which  do  extremely  well,  pulses 
of  various  kinds,  and  tobacco.  The  poppy  is  cultivated  to  a  small 
extent  by  Muhammadans.  English  vegetables  are  grown  in  the  cold 
season,  and  oats  and  wheat  have  been  tried  with  success.  Fruit  trees 
include  oranges,  limes,  pine-apples,  plantains,  jack-fruit,  and  mangoes. 
The  last  are  injured  by  the  worm,  which  also  ruins  this  fruit  in  Assam. 
Various  kinds  of  English  fruit  trees  have  been  tried,  but  have  not 
proved  successful.  The  areca  palm  does  not  grow  in  Manipur,  and 
large  quantities  of  the  nut  are,  in  consequence,  imported  from  Cachar. 
The  rainfall  renders  any  general  system  of  irrigation  unnecessary,  but 
when  the  rivers  rise  small  channels  are  often  cut  to  bring  water  to 
the  fields. 

Most  of  the  hill  tribes  practise  the  jhum  system  of  cultivation. 
Jungle  is  cut  down  and  burned,  and  seeds  are  sown  among  the  ashes. 
The  crops  thus  grown  include  hill  rice,  cotton,  pulses,  pepper,  tobacco, 
ginger,  vegetables  of  various  kinds,  potatoes,  and  maize.  The  same 
jhum  is  seldom  cropped  for  more  than  two  years  in  succession,  and  is 
then  allowed  to  lie  fallow  for  as  long  a  time  as  possible,  the  minimum 
period  of  rest  being  four  years.  The  Tankul  Nagas,  who  live  in  the 
hills  east  of  the  valley,  grow  transplanted  rice.  The  sides  of  the  hills 
are  cut  out  into  a  succession  of  terraces,  built  up  with  stone  retaining 
walls,  over  which  the  water  from  the  hill  streams  is  distributed  through 
small  irrigation  channels.  It  is  from  this  tribe  that  the  AngamI  Nagas 
are  said  to  have  learned  the  art  of  terracing  the  hill-sides.  The 
advantages  of  the  system  are  twofold.  It  enables  the  villagers  to  obtain 
their  supplies  from  fields  close  to  their  own  homes,  while  the  grain 
raised  is  of  a  better  quality  than  that  grown  in  thejhFnns. 

It  is  impossible  to  trace  the  extension  of  cultivation,  as  an  accurate 
system  of  land  measurement  has  only  recently  been  introduced. 
A  strong  stimulus  has,  however,  been  given  to  agriculture  by  the 
construction  of  the  cart-road  through  the  hills  to  the  Assam  Valley, 
and  by  the  completion  of  the  railway  line  from  Gauhati  to  Dimapur  : 
and  there  is  now  a  large  export  of  rice  along  this  route. 

The  cattle  are  strong,  hardy  little  animals,  and  when  exported  outside 
the  State  command  a  ready  sale.     There  is  abundance  of  excellent 


FORESTS  191 

grazing  in  the  rich  grass  of  the  jhils,  and  the  live-stock  of  the  farm  are 
carefully  tended  by  their  owners.  The  cows,  like  those  of  Assam,  are 
poor  milkers.  The  buffaloes  are  much  superior  to  those  imported  into 
the  Surma  Valley  from  Bengal.  The  Manipuri  ponies  are  well-known. 
They  do  not,  as  a  rule,  stand  as  much  as  12  hands  high,  but  they 
have  remarkable  endurance,  courage,  and  speed.  Unfortunately,  the 
mares  have  been  recklessly  sold,  and  many  were  carried  away  after  the 
expedition  of  1891.  Good  ponies  in  consequence  are  now  very  scarce, 
and  there  is  serious  risk  of  the  breed  disappearing.  In  1839  an  Arab 
stallion  and  8  mares  were  supplied  to  the  Raja,  but  the  climate  did  not 
suit  them  and  their  progeny  soon  died  out. 

The  whole  of  the  hill  ranges  lying  between  the  valleys  of  Cachar  and 
Manipur,  and  far  to  the  north  and  south,  are  densely  clothed  to  their 
summits  with  tree  jungle.  Almost  the  only  excep- 
tions  to  this  are  the  hill  slopes  facing  the  Manipur 
valley,  which  have  been  denuded  of  timber.  The  trees  are  of  great 
variety,  and  in  the  ranges  lying  west  of  the  Manipur  valley  large  tracts 
contain  nahor  (Mesua  ferred),jarul  {Lagerstroemia  Flos  Heginae),  india- 
rubber,  tun  (Cedrela  Toona),  oak,  ash,  &c.  Bamboo  jungle  is  every- 
where plentiful.  Towards  the  north,  in  the  valleys  dividing  the  hill 
ranges  from  one  another,  the  trees  attain  an  immense  size  and  height  ; 
and  where  this  kind  of  forest  exists  the  bamboo  is  uncommon.  The 
tea  plant  is  found  wild  in  the  Hirok  range  between  Manipur  and 
Burma,  and  on  the  hills  to  the  north.  Teak  is  common  on  the  slopes 
overlooking  the  Kubo  valley.  There  are  fine  pine  forests  in  the  Tankul 
hills  and  on  the  ranges  which  stretch  northward  to  the  Lanier  river. 
Rubber  used  formerly  to  be  obtained  in  considerable  quantities,  but 
most  of  the  trees  have  been  killed  by  excessive  and  improper  tapping. 
The  forests  lying  between  Manipur  and  Cachar  are  worked  by  the 
Assam  Forest  department,  which  retains  25  per  cent,  of  the  profits. 

Rents  are  usually  paid  in  kind,  the  ordinary  rate  being  about  4§  cwt. 
of  unhusked  rice  per  acre.  The  rate  of  wages  for  unskilled  labour  is 
4  annas  a  day.  Owing  to  difficulties  of  transport,  the  price  of  rice  is 
low.  The  opening  of  the  cart-road  has  developed  a  considerable  export 
trade  to  the  Assam  Valley,  but  in  spite  of  this  common  rice  is  often 
sold  for  less  than  a  rupee  a  maund. 

The  valley  and  the  surrounding  hills  have  not  yet  been  sufficiently 
explored  for  their  mineral  resources  to  be  fully  known.  There  are 
patches  of  coaly  matter  in  the  Kassom  ridge,  but  experts  are  of  opinion 
that  there  is  little  hope  of  discovering  workable  coal  in  these  hills. 
Iron  is  found  in  the  shape  of  small  pisolitic  nodules  of  hydrated  oxide 
of  iron,  covered  with  alluvial  deposits  to  the  depth  of  4  or  5  feet.  At 
Kakching,  to  the  south  of  the  valley,  the  ore  is  dug  up,  smelted,  and 
made  into  duos  and  farm  implements.     At  Hundong,  near  Ckrul,  and 


192  MANIPUR 

at  Palel,  limestone  deposits  are  worked  for  the  use  of  the  State.  A  large 
part  of  the  salt  used  in  Manipur  was  formerly  obtained  from  the  brine 
wells  which  exist  in  the  valley  and  in  the  adjoining  hills,  but  since  the 
opening  of  the  cart-road  Liverpool  salt  has  to  a  great  extent  succeeded 
in  ousting  the  home-made  article.  The  only  other  mineral  of  interest 
is  an  unctuous  clayey  rock  found  in  a  small  hill  to  the  left  of  the  main 
road  leading  northwards  from  Imphal  town.  This  rock  is  believed  to 
possess  medicinal  properties  and  is  eaten  by  the  people. 

Silk  is  obtaine'd  from  a  worm  that  feeds  on  the  mulberry.  The 
climate  and  soil  of  Manipur  are  favourable  to  the  growth  of  this  tree, 

and   a    European   firm   has  recently  submitted   pro- 
communications.  Posa^s>  whicJhj  if  accepted,  will  lead  to  the  investment 

of  a  large  sum  of  money  in  sericulture.  The  rearing 
of  the  silkworm  is  at  present  confined  to  the  degraded  class  of 
Manipuris  known  as  Lois,  a  fact  which  in  itself  is  enough  to  account 
for  the  stagnation  of  the  industry.  A  certain  amount  of  rough  pottery 
is  manufactured,  and  the  Manipuris  make  the  simple  agricultural 
implements  they  require,  and  brass  and  metal  vessels.  The  supply  of 
these  commodities  does  not,  however,  equal  the  demand,  and  has  to 
be  supplemented  by  imports  from  other  parts  of  India.  The  people 
manufacture  neat  cane  baskets  and  reed  mats,  and  are  fairly  expert 
carpenters  and  wood-carvers.  Native  jewellery  is  also  made,  but  the 
designs  are  rough,  and  possess  little  artistic  merit.  The  skins  of  deer 
and  calf  are  tanned,  and  saddles,  shoes,  belts,  pouches,  and  other 
articles  are  manufactured.  This  leather  is  often  tastefully  enamelled 
in  black. 

The  internal  trade  of  the  State  is  carried  on  at  markets  which  are 
held  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  larger  villages.  Two  large  markets 
are  held  daily  at  Imphal,  at  which  the  principal  articles  offered  for  sale 
are  cotton  and  silk  cloths  and  wearing  apparel,  pillows,  rugs,  Naga. 
cloths,  dried  and  fresh  fish,  vegetables,  rice,  reed  mats,  oil,  and  treacle. 
Almost  all  the  business  is  transacted  by  the  women,  who  are  shrewd 
and  capable,  the  men  thinking  it  beneath  their  dignity  to  come  and 
traffic  at  the  bazar.  Very  frequently  no  money  changes  hands,  but 
goods  are  exchanged  by  barter.  External  trade  is  carried  on  with 
Kohima  and  the  Assam  Valley,  with  Cachar,  and  to  a  small  extent 
with  Burma.  The  principal  exports  are  rice,  which  goes  by  cart  to 
Kohima  and  to  the  Assam-Bengal  Railway  at  Dimapur;  and  forest 
produce,  which  is  carried  down  the  Barak  into  Cachar.  At  one  time 
there  was  a  brisk  trade  in  tea-seed,  a  considerable  quantity  of  which 
came  from  Burma  and  merely  passed  through  Manipur.  The  trade 
has,  however,  been  killed  by  the  depression  in  the  tea  industry,  which 
has  checked  any  tendency  to  extend  the  area  under  cultivation,  and 
by  the  unscrupulous  conduct  of  the  contractors,  who  injured  the  repu- 


FAMINE  193 

tation  of  Manipur  seed  by  plucking  and  selling  it  before  it  was  ripe. 
Cattle  and  buffaloes  are  exported  in  considerable  numbers,  but  restric- 
tions are  from  time  to  time  imposed  to  prevent  the  State  from  being 
denuded  of  its  live-stock.  The  principal  articles  of  import  are  mineral 
oil,  betel-nuts,  dried  fish,  salt,  and  cotton  piece-goods  and  yarn.  Dried 
fish,  oil,  and  tea-seed  come  from  the  Burma  frontier,  but  the  bulk  of 
the  State  trade  is  with  Assam.  Although  the  Manipuri  women  are 
keen  and  energetic  shopkeepers,  most  of  the  wholesale  business  is  in 
the  hands  of  the  Marwari  merchants,  who  have  practically  monopolized 
the  trade  of  Assam.  The  dealers  in  cattle  and  forest  produce  are 
generally  Muhammadans  from  the  Surma  Valley. 

The  most  important  line  of  communication  in  the  State  is  the  cart- 
road  from  Manipur  through  the  Naga  Hills,  which  meets  the  Assam- 
Bengal  Railway  at  Dimapur ;  67  miles  of  this  road  lie  in  State  territory. 
The  gradients  are  very  easy,  and  commodious  resthouses  have  been 
erected  at  convenient  stages  ;  but  as  the  road  is  unmetalled,  it  is  practi- 
cally closed  for  cart  traffic  during  the  rains.  Excellent  bridges,  which 
for  the  most  part  are  of  solid  masonry,  have  been  thrown  across  all  the 
rivers.  There  is  a  good  bridle-path  from  Cachar  to  Imphal,  which 
passes  over  the  five  ranges  dividing  the  State  from  British  territory. 
Altogether  twelve  wire  suspension  bridges  have  been  erected  along  this 
route,  while  the  Jiri  is  crossed  by  a  ferry.  A  third  road  leaves  the 
valley  to  the  south,  and  passing  through  Tammu  reaches  the  valley  of 
the  Chindwin  in  Upper  Burma.  The  first  29  miles  are  fit  for  wheeled 
traffic,  but  after  this  point  the  gradients  become  very  steep,  and  in 
places  riding  is  barely  possible.  Numerous  driving  roads  in  the  valley 
are  kept  up  by  the  State,  each  village  being  held  responsible  for  the 
repair  of  a  certain  section.  These  roads  resemble  those  found  in 
Assam,  and  consist  of  earthen  embankments  raised  above  the  level 
of  the  rice-fields.  They  are  unmetalled,  and  thus  incapable  of  carrying 
much  cart  traffic  in  the  rains,  so  that  at  this  season  of  the  year  the 
rivers  are  used  for  the  transport  of  produce.  The  only  boats  employed 
are  canoes  hollowed  out  of  the  trunks  of  trees.  Three  lines  of  post 
leave  Imphal— to  Tammu,  to  Kohlma,  and  to  Silchar.  The  first  two 
are  maintained  by  the  State,  the  last  by  the  Assam  Administration. 

No  famine  has  occurred  in  Manipur  for  many  years,  though  a  poor 
harvest  sometimes  causes  a  slight  scarcity.  Prior  to  the  construction 
of  the  cart-road,  it  was  almost  impossible  to  export  Famine 

grain  from  the  State,  and  there  was  nearly  always 
a  large  supply  in  hand.     These  stocks  have  now  been  to  some  extent 
depleted,  and  a  complete  failure  of  the  harvest  would  be  attended  by 
serious  results,  as  it  would  be  impossible  to  throw  much  grain  into  the 
valley.    The  chances  of  a  serious  famine  occurring  are,  however,  slight. 

The  State  has  never  been  divided  into   any   minor  administrative 


194  M AM  PUR 

units.     Since    1891    it   has  been  administered  by  a  Political   Agent, 
as  the  Raja  who  was  placed  on  the  gaddi  after  the  outbreak  is  still 

.  .    .  ._    A.        a  minor.    A  junior  member  of  the  Assam  Commission 

Administration.   .  . J         .  .     .  ,_,,.. 

is  usually  deputed  to  act  as  Assistant  to  the  Politi- 
cal Agent.  The  Medical  officer  in  charge  of  the  regiment  at  Manipur 
discharges  some  of  the  functions  of  a  Civil  Surgeon,  and  public  works 
are  carried  out  by  the  State  Engineer.  The  land  records  establishment 
is  in  charge  of  a  Sub-Deputy-Collector  lent  by  the  Assam  Government. 

Petty  civil  and  criminal  cases  are  tried  by panchayat  courts  sitting  at 
Imphal  and  at  nine  places  in  the  valley,  which  can  impose  sentences  of 
line  but  not  of  imprisonment.  Appeals  lie  from  these  courts  to  the 
Chirap,  a  court  sitting  at  Imphal,  which  exercises  the  ordinary  powers 
of  a  first-class  Magistrate.  The  Superintendent  of  the  State  hears 
appeals  from  the  Chirap,  and  is  invested  with  powers  of  life  and  death 
subject  to  confirmation  by  the  Chief  Commissioner.  He  also  hears  all 
cases  in  which  hillmen  are  concerned.  Civil  and  criminal  cases  tu 
which  European  British  subjects  are  a  party  are  tried  by  the  same 
officer  in  his  capacity  as  Political  Agent,  or  by  his  Assistant.  Serious 
crime  is  not  common,  except  among  the  hillmen,  whose  sense  of 
the  sanctity  of  human  life  is  still  somewhat  undeveloped.  Since  the 
administration  of  the  State  has  been  placed  upon  a  more  satisfactory 
basis,  raids  upon  villages  have  happily  become  less  common  ;  but 
murders,  though  not  on  such  a  wholesale  scale,  still  take  place.  Civil 
suits  are  generally  of  a  petty  character. 

Under  native  rule,  the  ryots  paid  revenue  in  kind  and  labour. 
Officials,  instead  of  receiving  salaries  in  cash,  were  remunerated  by 
allowances  in  land  and  rice ;  and  public  buildings,  bridges,  and  roads 
were  constructed  or  repaired  by  unpaid  labour.  Since  the  adminis- 
tration has  been  controlled  by  the  British,  the  system  of  forced  labour 
has  been  almost  entirely  abolished,  and  land  revenue  has  been  assessed 
at  the  rate  of  Rs.  2  per  acre.  The  valley  has  been  divided  into  five 
divisions  or  pannahs,  each  in  charge  of  a  collecting  officer.  A  survey 
establishment  has  been  organized,  and  the  occupied  area  is  being 
gradually  measured,  the  result  of  these  operations  being  to  disclose 
a  large  area  of  unassessed  cultivation.  House  tax  is  levied  in  the 
hills,  and  no  attempt  is  made  to  ascertain  the  area  actually  under 
cultivation. 

There  are  practically  no  excise  arrangements  in  the  State.  The 
Manipuris  abstain  from  both  liquor  and  intoxicating  drugs.  A  little 
opium  is  used  by  Muhammadans ;  and  the  hill  tribes  prepare  alcoholic 
liquors,  both  fermented  and  distilled,  but  no  restriction  is  placed  upon 
this  practice.  Salt  is  obtained  from  brine  wells  leased  from  the  State, 
and  is  also  imported  from  Bengal  in  considerable  quantities. 

The  total  revenue  and  expenditure  of  the  State  in  1903-4  and  the 


MA  XJ ARAB  AD  r95 

principal  items  were  as  follows,  in  thousands  of  rupees.  Receipts  : 
total,  3,95  :  including  land  revenue  2,77,  house-tax  46,  fisheries  24, 
forests  26,  salt  6.  Expenditure :  total  3,88  ;  including  State  works 
1,48,  Raja's  civil  list  50,  police  60,  tribute  50,  land  revenue  28, 
education   15. 

A  police  station  at  Imphal  town  is  the  centre  of  the  whole  investi- 
gating agency.  The  civil  police  force  consists  of  19  men  under 
a  sub-inspector.  In  addition  to  the  regular  police,  one  chaukiddr  has 
been  appointed  to  every  hundred  houses.  A  battalion  of  military 
police  is  kept  up  by  the  State.  The  Assistant  to  the  Political  Agent 
acts  as  commandant,  and  the  sanctioned  strength  is  13  native  officers 
and  364  non-commissioned  officers  and  men.  Thirteen  outposts  along 
the  main  roads  and  in  the  hills  are  held  by  this  force.  There  is  one 
jail  in  the  valley,  at  Imphal. 

Education  has  made  very  little  progress  in  Manipur.  At  the  Census 
of  1 901  only  1-9  per  cent,  of  the  male  population  was  returned  as 
literate.  An  English  middle  school  is  maintained  at  Imphal ;  and  in 
1903-4  there  were  29  primary  schools  in  the  State,  two  of  which  arc 
located  in  the  hills.  The  total  number  of  pupils  on  March  31,  1904, 
was  1,629.  All  except  46  of  these  were  reading  in  primary  schools. 
The  girls'  school  has  recently  been  closed,  as  it  was  considered  that 
the  advantages  it  conferred  were  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  cost  of  its 
maintenance. 

There  is  one  hospital  at  Imphal  town,  with  accommodation  for  14  in- 
patients. In  1904  the  number  of  cases  treated  was  10,000,  of  which 
300  were  in-patients,  and  400  operations  were  performed.  The  total 
expenditure  amounted  to  Rs.  4,000. 

Vaccination  is  not  compulsory,  but  the  Kukis  are  the  only  in- 
habitants of  Manipur  who  object  to  the  process,  and  even  their  dislike 
is  wearing  off.  The  number  of  successful  vaccinations  in  1903-4 
represented  58  per  1,000  of  the  population,  which  was  considerably 
above  the  proportion  in  Assam  as  a  whole. 

[E.  W.  Dunn,  Abridged  Gazetteer  of  Manipur  (Calcutta,  1891); 
Dr.  R.  Brown,  Annual  Report  of  the  Manipur  Political  Agency  for 
1868-9;  Sir  J.  Johnstone,  My  Experience  in  Manipur  and  the 
Ndga  Hills  ;    B.  C.  Allen,   Gazetteer  of  Manipur  (1905).] 

Manjarabad. — Western  taluk  of  Hassan  District,  Mysore,  lying 
between  12°  40'  and  130  3'  N.  and  750  33'  and  750  57'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  438  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  59,304,  com- 
pared with  55,862  in  1891.  The  taluk  contains  one  town,  Sakleshpur 
(population,  2,140),  the  head-quarters;  and  277  villages.  The  land 
revenue  demand  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  1,78,000.  The  whole  taluk  lies 
in  the  Malnad,  and  contains  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  Mysore, 
flanked   by   the   stupendous    mountain   range  of   the   Western   Ghats, 


196  MANJARABAD 

whose  slopes  are  covered  with  magnificent  forest.  The  Hemavati 
flows  through  the  east,  and,  after  receiving  the  Aigur  and  Kotehalla, 
turns  east  along  the  southern  border*  East  of  this  river  the  country 
is  more  open.  Streams  from  the  Western  Ghats  run  west  to  the 
Netravati  in  South  Kanara.  The  soil  on  the  hills  is  generally  a  rich 
red,  in  the  valleys  red  or  nearly  black.  '  The  principal  cultivation  is 
rice,  which  grows  luxuriantly  in  the  valleys  and  on  the  terraces  cut 
on  the  hill-sides.  The  abundant  rain  makes  irrigation  unnecessary  as 
a  rule.  '  Dry '  cultivation  is  found  to  the  east  of  the  Hemavati.  In 
the  west  rdgi  is  grown  in  small  patches  once  in  two  or  three  years, 
or  at  longer  intervals.  During  the  past  half-century  coffee  cultivation 
has  spread  over  the  whole  taluk,  and  through  the  investment  of 
European  capital  and  the  settlement  of  European  planters  has  changed 
the  face  of  the  country,  revolutionizing  its  old  feudal  customs.  Carda- 
moms are  also  grown  on  the  Ghats. 

Manjeri. — Village  in  the  Ernad  taluk  of  Malabar  District,  Madras, 
situated  in  n°  7'  N.  and  760  7'  E.  Population  (1901),  4,000.  It  is 
the  head-quarters  of  the  tahsildar,  of  a  stationary  sub-magistrate,  and 
of  a  District  Munsif,  and  is  notable  as  the  scene,  in  1849,  of  one  of 
the  worst  of  the  Mappilla  outrages.  The  native  troops  sent  against 
the  rioters  were  routed  and  Ensign  Wyse  was  killed.  Another  outbreak 
occurred  here  in  1896,  when  99  fanatics  were  shot. 

Manjha. — A  tract  of  country  in  the  Lahore  and  Amritsar  Districts 
of  the  Punjab,  lying  between  300  52'  and  210  35'  N.  and  730  45'  and 
750  21'  E.,  and  forming  a  portion  of  the  uplands  of  the  Bari  Doab. 
In  shape  it  is,  roughly  speaking,  a  triangle,  whose  base  may  be  taken 
as  the  grand  trunk  road  crossing  Lahore  and  Amritsar  Districts  from 
the  Ravi  to  the  Beas,  and  whose  sides  are  the  high  banks  marking  the 
ancient  courses  of  those  rivers.  From  the  point  where  the  Beas  now 
joins  the  Sutlej,  the  old  Beas  bank  diverges  from  the  present  course 
of  the  Sutlej  and  approaches  the  old  bed  of  the  Ravi  near  the  borders 
of  Montgomery  District.  This  is  the  apex  of  the  Manjha,  for,  though 
the  upland  ridge  is  continued  as  far  as  Multan,  from  this  point  it  bears 
the  name  of  the  Ganji  Bar.  Before  the  construction  of  the  Bari  Doab 
Canal  the  Manjha  was  an  ill-watered  and  infertile  expanse,  described 
by  the  Settlement  officer  of  Lahore  in  1854  as  a  jungle  in  which  only 
the  poorer  cereals  and  pulses  could  be  grown.  Now,  however,  the 
Bari  Doab  Canal  runs  through  the  whole  length  of  the  tract,  which  is 
second  in  fertility  to  none  in  the  Province.  The  Sikhs  of  the  Manjha 
are  some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  the  Jat  race,  and  the  tract  is  one 
of  the  most  important  recruiting  grounds  for  Sikh  regiments.  The 
expression  '  Sikhs  of  the  Manjha '  is,  however,  sometimes  loosely  used 
to  denote  all  Sikhs  recruited  north  of  the  Sutlej.  Punjabi  of  the 
Manjha  is  the  phrase  used  to  express  the  dialect  of  Punjabi  spoken 


MANKACHAR  197 

in  and  about  the  Manjha,  as  contrasted  with  Western  Punjabi,  the 
Punjabi  of  the  submontane  tract,  the  Punjabi  of  the  Jullundur  Doab, 
and  Malwa  Punjabi,  or  that  spoken  south  of  the  Sutlej. 

Manjhand. — Town  in  the  Kotri  taluka  of  Karachi  District,  Sind, 
Bombay,  situated  in  250  55'  N.  and  68°  17'  E.,  close  to  the  Indus,  on 
the  North-Western  Railway,  43  miles  north  of  Kotri.  Population 
(1901),  2,862.  Coarse  cloth  and  shoes  are  manufactured  here.  The 
municipality,  which  dates  from  1856,  had  an  average  income  during 
the  decade  ending  190 1  of  Rs.  2,400.  In  1903-4  the  income  was 
also  Rs.  2,400.  The  town  contains  one  boys'  school,  with  an  average 
daily  attendance  of  92  pupils. 

Manjhanpur. — South-western  tahsll  of  Allahabad  District,  United 
Provinces,  comprising  the  parganas  of  Kararl  and  Atharban,  and  lying 
north  of  the  Jumna,  between  250  17'  and  25°  32'  N.  and  8o°  9'  and 
8i°  $2'  E.,  with  an  area  of  272  square  miles.  Population  fell  from 
131,688  in  182 1  to  129,798  in  1901.  There  are  269  villages  and  one 
town,  Manjhanpur  (population,  3,221).  The  demand  for  land  revenue 
in  1903-4  was  Rs.  2,38,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  38,000.  The  density 
of  population,  477  persons  per  square  mile,  is  considerably  below  the 
District  average.  A  high  cliff  scored  by  deep  ravines  borders  the 
Jumna.  The  upland  country  beyond  is  at  first  sandy,  but  contains 
small  jliih  used  for  irrigation,  the  largest  being  the  Alwara  jMl.  The 
soil  then  changes  to  the  ordinary  fertile  loam  of  the  Doab,  where  wells 
supply  most  of  the  irrigation.  In  1903-4  the  area  under  cultivation 
was  180  square  miles,  of  which  51  were  irrigated.  The  Fatehpur 
branch  canal  supplies  about  one-fourth  of  the  irrigated  area ;  and  tanks 
or  jhils  and  wells  the  remainder  in  almost  equal  proportions. 

Manjra. — River  of  Hyderabad  State,  rising  on  the  plateau  of 
Patoda  in  Bhlr  District.  After  flowing  through  or  along  the  Districts 
of  Osmanabad,  Bldar,  and  Medak,  generally  in  a  south-eastern  direction, 
it  takes  a  sudden  turn  10  miles  east  of  Kalabgur  in  the  last-named 
District  and  thence  flows  almost  due  north,  forming  the  boundary 
between  Nander  and  Indur  Districts,  till  it  joins  the  Godavari  from 
the  right  near  Kondalwadi,  after  a  course  of  387  miles.  During  its 
course  it  receives  the  Tirna  on  the  right  bank  in  the  Nilanga  taluk 
of  Bldar  District,  and  1 8  miles  farther  down,  the  Karanja  on  the  same 
side.  In  Nander  two  smaller  streams,  the  Lendi  and  the  Manar,  join 
it  on  the  left  bank.  The  banks  of  the  Manjra  are  nowhere  steep,  and 
are  earthy.  Several  ferries  are  maintained,  and  its  waters  are  largely 
used  for  irrigation.  Two  new  projects,  known  as  the  Manjra  and  the 
Manjra  Extension,  which  are  in  course  of  construction,  comprise 
extensive  schemes  for  irrigating  lands  in  Medak  District. 

Mankachar.—  Trade  centre  in  Goalpara  District,  Eastern  Bengal 
and  Assam.     See  Maxikakchar. 


1 98  MAXK.  IRXACIL 1 

Mankarnacha. — Highest  peak  in  the  Orissa  State  of  Bonai,  Bengal, 
situated  in  210  47'  N.  and  850  14'  E.,  and  rising  to  a  height  of  3,639 
feet  above  sea-level. 

Mankera. — Village  in  the  Bhakkar  tahsil  of  Mianwali  District, 
Punjab,  situated  in  310  23'  N.  and  710  27'  E.  It  lies  in  the  heart 
of  the  Thai,  the  desert  of  the  Sind-Sagar  Doab.  A  large  fort,  said  to 
have  been  founded  by  the  Sials  of  Jhang,  still  exists  in  the  village. 
Mankera  was  once  the  great  stronghold  of  the  Jaskani  Baloch,  who 
in  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century  held  the  country  from 
the  Indus  to  the  Chenab,  and  from  Bhakkar  to  Leiah  on  the  Indus. 
They  appear  to  have  lost  Mankera  to  the  Bhangi  Sikhs  about  1772, 
but  to  have  soon  recovered  it.  In  1792  it  became  the  capital  of  the 
Pathan  Nawab,  Muhammad  Khan  Sadozai,  who  governed  the  Sind- 
Sagar  Doab,  and  subsequently  also  Dera,  for  the  Durrani  kings  of 
Kabul,  Bhakkar  being  his  second  capital.  Muhammad  Khan  gradually 
became  independent,  and  was  not  molested  by  the  Sikhs  ;  but  after 
his  death  in  181 5  RanjTt  Singh  invaded  his  territories,  and  in  1821 
look  Mankera  by  siege.  Mankera  then  became  the  seat  of  a  Sikh 
governor,  and  at  the  annexation  of  the  Punjab  was  made  the  head- 
quarters of  a  tahsil  till  1853-4. 

Manki. — Village  in  the  Honavar  taluka  of  North  Kanara  District, 
Bombay,  situated  in  140  n'  N.  and  740  32'  E.  Population  (1901), 
6,co8.  The  remains  of  several  Jain  temples  point  to  the  fact  that 
Jain  influence  was  formerly  paramount  in  Manki,  while  several  in- 
scriptions show  that  the  place  was  once  of  considerable  importance. 
A  dilapidated  fort  on  the  coast  is  traditionally  reported  to  have  been 
the  former  stronghold  of  the  Karagars  (now  a  degraded  class) ;  but 
more  probably  it  was  held  on  behalf  of  the  rulers  of  Vijayanagar  by 
the  Sheorogars,  a  class  claiming  Kshattriya  descent,  who  arc  more 
numerous  in  Manki  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  District.  After  the 
fall  of  Vijayanagar,  Manki  was  possessed  by  the  chiefs  of  Bednur  and 
eventually  passed  into  the  hands  of  Hyder  All.  The  downfall  of 
Tipu  added  it  with  the  rest  of  Kanara  to  British  territory.  Manki 
contains  three  old  Hindu  temples  of  uncertain  date.  It  formerly 
possessed  a  large  export  trade  in  rice,  raw  sugar,  and  coco-nuts  ;  but 
at  present  the  annual  imports  amount  to  only  Rs.  1,270  and  the 
exports  to  Rs.  180. 

Mankur. — Village  in  the  head-quarters  subdivision  of  Burdwan 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  230  26'  N.  and  870  34'  E.  Population 
(1901),  7,206.  Mankur  is  a  station  on  the  chord-line  of  the  East 
Indian  Railway,  90  miles  from  Calcutta,  and  has  a  considerable  trade  ; 
it  is  also  a  local  seat  of  the  silk-weaving  industry.  The  Church 
Missionary  Society  maintains  a  medical  mission,  at  which  rr,ooo 
patients  were  treated  in  1901. 


MANNARGUD1   TOWN  199 

Manmad. — Town  in  the  Chandor  tdluka  of  Nasik  District,  Bombay, 
situated  in  200  15'  N.  and  740  26'  E.,  on  the  north-eastern  line  of  the 
Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway.  Population  (1901),  7,113.  Manmad 
is  the  junction  of  the  Dhond-Manmad  State  Railway  with  the  Great 
Indian  Peninsula  Railway,  and  also  the  starting-point  of  a  metre-gauge 
railway  to  Hyderabad.  Much  cotton  from  Khandesh  and  Malegaon 
is  carried  by  rail  here.  A  remarkable  pyramidal  hill  near  Manmad, 
about  750  feet  high,  is  notable  for  a  tall,  obelisk-like  rock  on  its 
summit,  at  least  60  feet  high,  known  locally  as  Ram-gulhni.  At  the 
back  of  this  hill  are  the  peaks  known  as  Ankai  and  Tankai.  The 
town  contains  an  English  school  and  two  dispensaries,  one  of  which 
is  maintained  by  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway. 

Mannargudi  Subdivision.  —  Subdivision  of  Tanjore  District, 
Madras,  consisting   of  the   taluks   of  Mannargudi  and  TiRurrrR- 

AIPPUNDI. 

Mannargudi  Taluk. — Central  taluk  of  Tanjore  District,  Madras, 
lying  between  io°  26'  and  io°  48'  N.  and  790  19'  and  790  38'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  301  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  1S8. 107  : 
and  this  has  remained  practically  stationary  since  1891,  when  it  was 
188,112.  It  contains  193  villages,  besides  the  municipal  town  of 
Mannargudi  (population,  20,449),  tne  head-quarters.  The  demand 
for  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  6,28,000. 
The  south-western  part  of  the  taluk  is  unirrigated,  while  the  remainder 
lies  within  the  Cauvery  delta,  though  it  contains  no  alluvial  soil. 

Mannargudi  Town  (also  called  Mannarkovil  or  Raja  Mannar- 
kovil).— Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name  in  Tanjore 
District,  Madras,  situated  in  to0  40'  N.  and  790  27'  E.,  on  the  bank 
of  the  Pamaniyar  river,  9  miles  south  of  the  railway  station  of  Xlda- 
mangalam.  The  population  in  1901  was  20,449,  °f  whom  651  were 
Musalmans,  540  Christians,  and  153  Jains,  the  rest  being  Hindus. 
This  is  one  of  the  centres  of  the  Wesleyan  Mission,  which  maintains 
a  second-grade  college,  called  the  Findlay  College,  affiliated  to  the 
Madras  University  in  1898.  The  average  attendance  in  the  advanced 
classes  during  1903-4  was  58,  and  in  the  lower  classes  533.  In 
addition,  a  high  school  is  maintained  by  private  agency.  Mannargudi 
was  constituted  a  municipality  in  1866.  The  receipts  and  expenditure 
during  the  ten  years  ending  1902-3  averaged  Rs.  27,000,  and  in 
1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  29,000.  The  chief  sources  of  income  are 
tolls,  and  house  and  land  taxes.  A  channel  from  the  Vadavar,  about 
1 2  miles  long,  supplies  twenty-two  tanks  in  the  town  with  good  water. 
Mannargudi  is  noted  for  the  manufacture  of  metal  ware  and  cloths, 
and  exports  rice  in  large  quantities.  Of  the  many  temples  in  the  town, 
the  most  important  is  that  to  Rajagopalaswami,  which  was  founded  by 
Kulottunga  Chola  I  in  the  eleventh  century.     Two  other  shrines  bear 


2oo  MANNARGUDI   TOWN 

Chola  names  and  inscriptions  of  Chola,  Pandya,  and  Hoysala  kings. 
Mannargudi  itself  was  formerly  called  Rajadhiraja  Chaturvedimangalam, 
obviously  a  name  of  Chola  origin.  An  old  Jain  temple  stands  in  the 
town,  and  a  mile  to  the  west  is  a  ruined  fort  said  to  have  been  built  by 
a  Hoysala  king. 

Manne. — Village  in  the  Nelamangala  taluk  of  Bangalore  District, 
Mysore,  situated  in  13°  15'  N.  and  770  18'  E.  Population  (1901), 
748.  Under  the  name  of  Manyapura  it  was  the  residence  of  the 
Ganga  kings  in  the  eighth  century.  It  was  taken  by  the  Cholas  at 
the  beginning  of  the  eleventh  century.  The  city  is  said  to  have 
extended  over  8  miles  to  the  east,  but  only  some  ruins  of  temples  now 
remain. 

Manohar  (Manohargarli). — Fort  in  the  State  of  Savantvadi, 
Bombay,  situated  in  160  N.  and  740  i'  E.,  14  miles  north-east  of  Vadi, 
and  on  the  south  of  the  Rangna  pass.  Manohar  is  a  solid  mass  of 
rock  about  2,500  feet  high,  said  to  have  been  fortified  since  the  time 
of  the  Pandavas.  In  the  disturbances  of  1844  the  garrison  of  Manohar 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  Kolhapur  insurgents.  In  the  beginning  of 
1845  the  fort  was  taken  by  General  Delamotte. 

Manoharpur. — Chief  town  of  an  estate  of  the  same  name  in  the 
Sawai  Jaipur  nizamat  of  the  State  of  Jaipur,  Rajputana,  situated  in 
270  18'  N.  and  750  57'  E.,  about  28  miles  north-by-north-east  of 
Jaipur  city.  The  holder  of  the  estate  is  termed  Rao,  and  serves  the 
Darbar  with  65  horsemen.  The  population  in  1901  was  5,032.  The 
town  contains  a  fort,  and  a  primary  school  attended  by  60  boys. 

Manoli. — Town  in  the  Parasgad  taluka  of  Belgaum  District,  Bom- 
bay, situated  in  150  51'  N.  and  750  7'  E.,  42  miles  east  of  Belgaum  town. 
Population  (1901),  5,308.  Manoli  had  a  once  considerable,  but  now 
declining,  industry  in  dyeing  yarns.  It  is  famous  as  the  spot  where 
General  Wellesley,  afterwards  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  overtook  the 
notorious  freebooter  Dhind-deva  Wagh  (better  known  as  Dhundia), 
after  a  long  pursuit  from  Mysore  territory.  The  freebooter  with  his 
followers  had  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Malprabha,  opposite 
the  town,  where  he  was  surprised  by  General  Wellesley  at  the  head 
of  a  body  of  cavalry.  The  town  contains  eight  temples  dedicated  to 
Panchalinga  Deo,  built  of  coarse-grained  stone,  without  any  remarkable 
carving  ;  and  a  ruined  fort.     There  is  a  boys'  school  with  97  pupils. 

Manora. — Cape  in  Karachi  District,  Sind,  Bombay,  situated  in 
240  48'  N.  and  66°  59'  E.  A  lighthouse  on  the  cape,  with  a  fixed 
light  148  feet  above  high  water,  is  visible  upwards  of  20  miles,  but  only 
from  10  to  15  miles  during  the  south-west  monsoon.  Manora  forms 
a  cantonment,  and  contains  the  Persian  Gulf  Telegraph  department 
cable  factory  and  a  recently  constructed  dry  dock,  known  as  the  Giles 
Graving    Dock.      The    Karachi    Port    and    Pilot    establishments,    the 


MAN  PUR  20 1 

Port  Officer  and  Port  Engineer,  and  a  portion  of  the  Indo-European 
Telegraph  establishment  are  resident  here.  An  annual  fair  is  held  in 
March  in  honour  of  a  pir  or  saint,  said  to  have  been  buried  under 
miraculous  circumstances.  Manora  hill  is  a  very  healthy  place,  and 
an  occasional  resort  for  invalids  from  Karachi ;  it  is  roo  feet  high  at 
its  east  end,  descending  to  40  feet  at  the  west  end.  At  the  distance  of 
2,310  feet  to  the  east  of  Manora  is  a  breakwater,  which  forms  the 
protection  of  the  entrance  to  Karachi  harbour  in  that  direction. 
Opposite  the  north  end  of  this  breakwater  is  the  landing-place,  with 
three  jetties  on  the  island  of  Kiamari :  the  Commissariat,  the  Passenger, 
and  the  Customs  jetty.  About  3  miles  from  the  jetties  is  an  island,  on 
which  is  a  meteorological  observatory.  There  are  fortifications  and 
barracks,  a  dispensary,  and  a  middle  school  for  European  and  Eurasian 
girls  at  Manora  Point.  The  entire  peninsula  has  now  been  constituted 
a  cantonment. 

Manpur. — An  isolated  British  pargana  in  Central  India,  situated  in 
the  Bhopawar  Agency.  The  pargana,  which  has  an  area  of  60  square 
miles,  is  bounded  on  the  north,  south,  and  east  by  portions  of  the 
Indore  State,  and  on  the  west  by  the  petty  holding  of  Jamnia.  It  lies 
on  the  edge  of  the  Vindhyan  scarp,  and  is  intersected  by  numerous 
spurs  of  that  range,  covered  with  jungle.  In  the  valleys  the  soil  is 
of  high  fertility.  The  climate  is  temperate,  the  temperature  ranging 
between  ioo°  and  720.     The  annual  rainfall  averages  t,^  inches. 

Manpur  was  originally  a  part  of  the  Mandu  sarkar  of  the  Sub  ah  of 
Malwa.  In  the  eighteenth  century  it  fell  to  Sindhia.  In  1844  Manpur 
was  included  in  the  tracts  assigned  by  Sindhia  for  the  maintenance 
of  the  Gwalior  Contingent,  and  under  the  subsequent  treaty  of  1S60 
it  was  one  of  the  districts  of  which  possession  was  retained  by  the 
British   Government. 

Population  fell  from  5,342  in  1891  to  4,890  in  1901,  Hindus  forming 
53  per  cent,  and  Animists  37  per  cent,  of  the  total.  The  inhabitants 
consist  mainly  of  Bhils,  a  fact  not  entirely  brought  out  by  the  census 
figures,  as  many  were  returned  as  Hindus.  Native  Christians  numbered 
241,  chiefly  belonging  to  the  Roman  Catholic  Mission  station  at 
Khurda. 

Of  the  total  area,  11  square  miles,  or  18  per  cent.,  are  cultivated, 
of  which  only  332  acres  are  irrigated.  About  15  square  miles,  or 
25  per  cent,  of  the  total  area,  are  capable  of  cultivation  ;  30  square 
miles,  or  50  per  cent.,  are  under  forest :  and  the  rest  is  waste.  Maize 
occupies  7  square  miles,  jowdr  and  wheat  2  square  miles  each,  and 
poppy  127  acres. 

The  pargana  is  in  charge  of  a  ka/nasdar,  who  exercises  the  powers  of 
a  third-class  magistrate.  All  civil  cases  and  serious  crimes  are  dealt 
with  by  the  Political  Agent.     The  total  revenue  is  Rs.  19,800,  of  which 


202  MANPUR 

Rs.  12,500  is  derived  from  land,  Rs.  3,500  from  forests,  and  Rs.  2,800 
from  excise.  The  chief  heads  of  expenditure  are:  Rs.  4,700  on  the 
collection  of  revenue,  Rs.  1,900  on  administrative  establishment,  and 
Rs.  r,6oo  on  public  works.  The  land  is  assessed  in  two  classes,  lower 
rates  being  given  to  the  Bhil  cultivators  as  an  inducement  to  settle. 
A  twenty  years'  settlement  of  seven  villages  was  made  in  1867,  which 
was  renewed  in  1887  for  the  whole  pargana  and  extended  to  the 
remaining  villages.  The  Bhil  rates  are  Rs.  8-8  per  acre  for  irrigated 
and  Rs.  1-12  to  R.  0-6-4  f°r  unirrigated  land;  other  cultivators 
pay  Rs.  12  for  irrigated  and  Rs.  1-8  to  R,  0-11-2  for  unirrigated  land. 
The  incidence  of  the  land  revenue  demand  is  Rs.  2-5  per  acre  of 
cultivated  land,  and  R.  0-11-2  per  acre  of  the  total  area.  The  revenue 
is  collected  in  cash  in  British  currency,  which  has  been  legal  tender 
since  1861.  The  pargana  is  watched  by  a  detachment  of  the  Central 
India  Agency  police.  Two  schools,  one  at  Manpur  village  and  the 
other  at  Sherpur,  are  situated  in  the  pargana. 

Manpur,  the  head-quarters  of  the  pargana,  is  situated  in  220  26'  N. 
and  750  40'  E.,  on  the  Bombay-Agra  high  road,  13  miles  from  Mhow 
and  24  from  Indore.  Population  (1901),  1,748.  The  place  is  said  to 
derive  its  name  from  Raja  Man  Singh  of  Jaipur.  The  story  goes  that, 
after  suffering  a  defeat,  certain  Rajputs  of  Man  Singh's  army  were 
ashamed  to  return  home,  and  settled  in  the  district,  where  they  founded 
Manpur,  and  called  it  after  their  chief.  Forming  connexions,  as  time 
went  on,  with  the  Bhil  women  of  the  neighbourhood,  they  lost  caste 
and  became  merged  in  the  general  population.  The  Bhils  of  Manpur 
claim  a  mixed  descent  equal  to  that  of  the  Bhilala,  and  consider  them- 
selves superior  to  other  Bhils.  A  British  post  office,  the  residence  of 
the  Political  Agent,  a  school,  a  dispensary,  and  a  public  works  inspection 
bungalow  are  situated  in  the  place. 

Mansa  State. — Petty  State  in  MahI  Kantha,  Bombay. 

Mansa  Town. — Chief  town  of  the  State  of  the  same  name  in  the 
MahI  Kantha  Agency,  Bombay,  situated  in  230  26'  N.  and  720  43'  E. 
Population  (1901),  9,530.  It  has  a  large  and  wealthy  community  of 
merchants,  and  is  considered  the  richest  town  in  MahI  Kantha. 

Mansehra  Tahsll  (Mdnsahra). — Tahsil  of  Hazara  District,  North- 
West  Frontier  Province,  lying  between  34°  14'  and  350  ro"  N.  and 
7 20  55'  and  740  6'  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,486  square  miles.  Shaped  like 
a  cone,  the  tahsll  runs  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  comprising  the 
deep  glen  of  Kagan  and  the  mountain  ranges  on  either  hand.  The 
population  in  1901  was  182,396,  compared  with  165,312  in  1891. 
The  tahsll  contains  the  town  of  Baffa  (population,  7,029)  and  244 
villages,  including  the  large  village  of  Mansehra,  its  head-quarters. 
The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  1,03,000. 
The  Agror  valley  is  situated  in  this  tahsll. 


MAN  WAT  203 

Mansehra  Village  (Mdnsahra). — Headquarters  of  the  tahsil  of  the 
same  name,  Hazara  District,  North-West  Frontier  Province,  situated  in 
340  20'  N.  and  730  13'  E.,  on  the  right  bank  of  an  affluent  of  the  Siran, 
north  of  Abbottabad,  and  on  the  main  road  from  Kala-kl-Sarai  to  the 
Kashmir  border.  Population  (1901),  5,087.  A  few  resident  Khattri 
traders  do  a  considerable  business  in  grain  and  country  produce.  The 
chief  institutions  are  an  Anglo-vernacular  middle "  school  maintained 
by  the  District  board,  and  a  Government  dispensary.  Near  the  village 
are  two  rocks  on  which  are  inscribed  in  the  KharoshthI  character 
thirteen  of  the  edicts  of  Asoka. 

Manthani. — Head-quarters  of  the  Mahadeopur  taluk,  Karimnagar 
District,  Hyderabad  Slate,  situated  in  180  39'  N.  and  790  40'  E.,  about 
one  mile  south  of  the  Godavari  river.  Population  (1901),  6,680.  The 
town  contains  a  dispensary,  a  school,  and  a  post  office. 

Manu. — River  of  Assam  which  rises  in  the  State  of  Hill  Tippera, 
and,  after  flowing  in  a  tortuous  north-westerly  course  through  Sylhet 
District,  falls  into  the  Kusiyara  branch  of  the  Surma  a  little  to  the  east 
of  Bahadurpur.  Almost  the  whole  of  its  course  in  the  plains  lies 
through  cultivated  land,  and  it  is  largely  used  for  the  carriage  of  forest 
produce  of  all  kinds,  tea,  rice,  and  oilseeds.  Boats  of  4  tons  burden 
can  proceed  as  far  as  the  frontier  of  Hill  Tippera  in  the  rainy  season, 
but  during  the  dry  season  traffic  is  carried  on  in  vessels  of  lighter 
draught.  The  river  passes  a  large  number  of  local  centres  of  trade,  the 
most  important  of  which  are  Lalbag  and  Maulavi  Bazar.  A  little  to 
the  east  of  the  latter  place  it  receives  a  considerable  tributary,  the 
Dholai.     The  total  length  of  the  river  is  135  miles. 

Manvi  Taluk. —  Taluk  in  Raichur  District,  Hyderabad  State. 
Including  jaglrs,  the  population  in  1901  was  70,773,  and  the  area 
573  square  miles,  while  the  population  was  58,828  in  1891.  It  con- 
tained one  town,  Manvi  (population,  6,253),  the  head-quarters  ;  and 
140  villages,  of  which  3  were  jaglr.  In  1905  part  of  the  Yergara  taluk 
was  incorporated  in  Manvi.  It  is  separated  from  the  Madras  District 
of  Kurnool  in  the  south  by  the  Tungabhadra  river.  The  land  revenue 
in  1901  was  2  lakhs.     The  soil  is  chiefly  regar  or  alluvial. 

Manvi  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name  in 
Raichur  District,  Hyderabad  State,  situated  in  150  59"  N.  and 
770  3'  E.  Population  (1901),  6,253.  It  contains  temples  of 
Marothi,  Ramasimha,  and  Venkateshwara,  and  a  Jama  Masjid. 
Opposite  the  temple  of  Marothi,  which  is  erected  on  a  hill  to  the 
west  of  the  town,  is  a  large  block  of  stone  bearing  a  length)-  Kanarese 
inscription.  Another  stone  bearing  an  inscription  stands  near  a  well 
in  the  fort,  which  is  now  in  ruins. 

Manwat. — Town  in  the  Pathri  taluk  of  Parbhani  District,  Hyder- 
abad State,  situated  in  190  18'  N.  and  760  30'  E.,  live  miles  south  of 

VOL.  XVII.  o 


2o4  MAN  WAT 

the  Hyderabad-Godavari  Valley  Railway.  Population  (1901),  7,395. 
It  is  a  busy  centre  of  the  grain  trade,  and  contains  a  State  post  office, 
a  British  sub-post  office,  and  four  schools. 

Maodon. — Petty  State  in  the  Khasi  Hills,  Eastern  Bengal  and 
Assam.  The  population  in  1901  was  296,  and  the  gross  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  1,490.  The  principal  products  are  millet,  oranges, 
areca-nuts,  pineapples,  and  bay  leaves.  Deposits  of  lime  and  coal 
exist  in  the  State,  but  are  not  worked. 

Maoflang.  — Petty  State  in  the  Khasi  Hills,  Eastern  Bengal  and 
Assam.  The  population  in  1901  was  947,  and  the  gross  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  145.  The  principal  products  are  millet,  rice,  coal, 
and  potatoes. 

Maoiang.—  Petty  State  in  the  Khasi  Hills,  Eastern  Bengal  and 
Assam.  The  population  in  1901  was  1,856,  and  the  gross  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  300.  The  principal  products  are  potatoes,  millet,  and 
honey.     Lime  and  iron  are  found  in  the  State,  but  are  not  worked. 

Maolong. — Petty  State  in  the  Khasi  Hills,  Eastern  Bengal  and 
Assam.  The  population  in  1901  was  1,472,  and  the  gross  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  1,800.  The  principal  products  are  oranges,  millet, 
areca-nuts,  and  pineapples.  There  is  some  trade  in  lime,  and  the 
coal-mines  of  the  State  have  been  leased  to  a  company  for  thirty 
vcars. 

Maosanram. — Petty  State  in  the  Khasi  Hills,  Eastern  Bengal  and 
Assam.  The  population  in  1901  was  1,414,  and  the  gross  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  2,930.  The  principal  products  are  potatoes,  millet, 
and  honey.  Lime,  coal,  and  iron  are  found  in  the  State,  but  are  not 
worked. 

Mapuca. — Chief  town  in  Bardez  District,  Goa,  Portuguese  India, 
situated  in  150  36"  N.  and  730  52'  E.,  about  8  miles  north  of  Panjim. 
Population  (1900),  10,733.  Mapuca  was  celebrated  in  ancient  times 
for  the  great  weekly  fair  on  Fridays.  It  takes  its  name,  according 
to  some,  from  map,  '  measure,'  and  sa,  '  to  fill  up,"  that  is,  the  place 
of  measuring  or  selling  goods.  It  is  now  one  of  the  most  important 
commercial  places  in  the  territory  of  Goa.  The  church,  dedicated  to 
Our  Lady  of  Miracles,  was  built  in  1594,  and  is  held  in  great  venera- 
tion not  only  by  Christian  converts  but  also  by  Hindus.  On  the  feast 
of  Our  Lady  of  Miracles  men  of  every  class  and  creed  come  in  crowds, 
bringing  offerings  to  the  Virgin.  On  the  same  occasion  a  fair  is 
held,  which  lasts  five  days.  Besides  the  church,  Mapuca  contains  six 
chapels,  an  asylum  for  the  poor  and  destitute,  a  town  hall,  and  a  jail. 
To  the  west  of  Mapuca  are  military  barracks,  where  a  regiment  was 
stationed  from  1841  to  187 1,  when  it  was  disbanded.  The  barracks 
arc  now  occupied  by  the  police  force,  post  office,  and  schools. 

Marahra  (or  Madura). — Town  in  the  District  and  tahsil  of  Etah, 


MARBLE  ROCKS  205 

United  Provinces,  situated  in  270  44'  N.  and  780  35'  E.,  on  the 
Cawnpore-Achhnera  Railway.  Population  (1901),  8,622.  The  Musal- 
man  residents,  who  form  more  than  half  the  total  population,  have 
great  influence  throughout  the  District.  The  name  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  the  mythical  destruction  of  a  former  village  {mar, 
'killing,'  and  hara,  'green,'  i.e.  jungle).  During  Akbar's  reign  the 
town  was  the  head-quarters  of  a  dastur.  In  the  eighteenth  century  it 
belonged  to  the  Saiyids  of  Barha  in  Muzaffarnagar,  and  then  passed  to 
the  Nawabs  of  Earrukhabad  and  of  Oudh.  The  town  is  scattered  and 
of  poor  appearance,  but  contains  the  ruins  of  two  seventeenth-century 
tombs,  and  another  tomb  and  a  beautiful  mosque  built  in  1729  and 
1732  respectively.  There  is  also  a  dispensary.  Marahra  was  a  muni- 
cipality from  1872  to  1904,  with  an  income  and  expenditure  of  about 
Rs.  5,000,  chiefly  derived  from  octroi.  It  has  now  been  constituted 
a  'notified  area,'  and  octroi  has  been  abolished.  The  trade  is  entirely 
local,  but  glass  bangles  are  made.  Marahra  contains  four  schools  with 
100  pupils,  and  a  small  branch  of  the  Aligarh  College. 

Marang  Bum. — Hill  on  the  edge  of  the  plateau  of  Hazaribagh 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  230  ^  N.  and  850  27'  E.,  on  the 
boundary  line  between  Hazaribagh  and  Ranch!  Districts.  It  rises 
2,400  feet  above  the  valley  of  the  Damodar  and  3,445  feet  above 
sea-level.  It  is  an  object  of  peculiar  veneration  to  the  Mundas, 
who  regard  Marang  Bum  as  the  god  of  rainfall,  and  appeal  to  him 
in  times  of  drought  or  epidemic  sickness. 

Marble  Rocks. — The  well-known  gorge  of  the  Narbada  river, 
in  Jubbulpore  District,  Central  Provinces,  situated  in  230  8'  X.  and 
790  48'  E.,  near  the  village  of  Bheraghat,  13  miles  from  Jubbulpore 
city  by  road,  and  3  miles  from  Mirganj  station  on  the  Great  Indian 
Peninsula  Railway.  The  river  here  winds  in  a  deep  narrow  stream 
through  rocks  of  magnesian  limestone  100  feet  high,  giving  an  ex- 
tremely picturesque  effect,  especially  by  moonlight.  One  place  where 
the  rocks  approach  very  closely  is  called  the  Monkey's  Leap.  Indra 
is  said  to  have  made  this  channel  for  the  waters  of  the  pent-up 
stream,  and  the  footprints  left  on  the  rock  by  the  elephant  of  the 
god  still  receive  adoration.  The  greatest  height  of  the  rocks  above 
water-level  is  105  feet,  and  the  depth  of  water  at  the  same  place 
48  feet,  but  the  basin  near  the  travellers'  bungalow  is  169  feet  deep. 
On  a  hill  beside  the  river  are  some  curious  remains  of  statuary.  A 
modern  temple  is  surrounded  by  a  high  circular  wall  of  much  more 
ancient  date,  against  the  inside  of  which  is  built  a  veranda  supported 
by  columns  set  at  regular  intervals.  The  pilasters  built  against  the 
wall  opposite  each  of  the  pillars  divide  the  wall  space  into  panels, 
and  in  each  of  these  on  a  pedestal  is  a  life-sized  image  of  a  god, 
goddess,  &c,  lor  the  most  part  in  a  very  mutilated  condition.      Most 

o  2 


206  MARBLE   ROCKS 

of  the  figures  are  four-armed  goddesses,  and  the  name  of  the  temple 
is  the  Chaunsath  Jogini,  or  'sixty-four  female  devotees.'  The  statues 
have  symbols  in  the  shape  of  various  animals  carved  on  their  pedestals. 
Bheraghat  is  sacred  as  the  junction  of  the  little  stream  of  the  Saras- 
watl  with  the  Narbada;  and  a  large  religious  fair  takes  place  here 
in  November  for  bathing  in  the  Narbada,  the  attendance  on  the 
principal  day  being  about  40,000.  The  marble  obtained  from  these 
rocks  is  coarse  grained  and  suitable  only  for  building  stone.  It  is 
very  hard  and  chips  easily,  and  is  therefore  not  well  adapted  for 
statuary.  The  colours  found  are  canary,  pink,  white,  grey,  and 
black.  Soapstone  or  French  chalk  is  found  in  pockets  in  the  bed 
of  the  Narbada. 

Mardan  Tahsil. — Tahsil  oi  Peshawar  District,  North-West  Frontier 
Province,  lying  between  34°  5'  and  340  32'  N.  and  710  49'  and 
7 20  24'  E.,  in  the  centre  of  the  part  of  the  District  which  lies  north 
of  the  Kabul  river,  with  an  area  of  610  square  miles.  It  comprises 
the  greater  portion  of  the  Yusufzai  plain,  and  with  the  Swabi  tahsil 
forms  the  Yusufzai  subdivision  of  Peshawar  District.  The  population 
in  1901  was  137,215,  compared  with  113,877  in  1891.  It  contains 
the  cantonment  of  Mardan  (3,572)  and  130  villages,  including  Hoti 
and  Rustam.  The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted 
to  Rs.  1,76,000. 

Mardan  Town. — Cantonment  in  Peshawar  District,  North-West 
Frontier  Province,  and  permanent  head-quarters  of  the  Queen's  Own 
Corps  of  Guides.  It  is  also  the  head-quarters  of  the  Mardan  tahsil 
and  the  Yusufzai  subdivision.  Population  (1901),  3,572.  The  can- 
tonment is  situated  in  -340  12'  N.  and  720  2'  E.,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Kalpani  river,  33  miles  north-east  of  Peshawar  and  15  miles 
north  of  Naushahra,  on  the  North-Western  Railway.  The  fort  was 
built  by  Hodson  of  the  Guides  in  1854.  The  civil  lines  lie  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  cantonment  on  the  Naushahra  road,  and  contain 
the  Assistant  Commissioner's  bungalow,  court-house,  tahsill,  Govern- 
ment dispensary,  and  other  public  offices.  An  Anglo-vernacular 
middle  school  is  maintained  by  the  District  board.  The  village  of 
Hoti,  from  which  the  station  is  sometimes  called  Hoti  Mardan,  lies 
2  miles  from  the  cantonment. 

Margao. — Town  in  Salsette  district,  Goa,  Portuguese  India,  situated 
in  1 50  18'  N.  and  740  1'  E.,  in  a  beautiful  plain  in  the  centre  of  the 
district,  on  the  bank  of  the  Sal  river,  and  about  16  miles  south-east 
of  Panjim.  It  is  a  station  on  the  West  of  India  Portuguese  Railway. 
Population  (1900),  12,126.  Margao,  according  to  tradition,  was  one 
of  the  early  seats  of  the  Aryan  settlers  of  Goa,  and  the  site  of  the 
chief  math  or  convent,  whence  its  name  Mathagrama,  or  '  the  village 
of    the   convent,'    corrupted    into    Margao.      Though    for    some    time 


MARTAHU  207 

exposed  to  the  incursions  of  Muhammadans  and  Marathas,  Margao 
was  inhabited  by  many  rich  families.  Of  late  many  public  and  private 
buildings  have  been  erected.  Christianity  was  introduced  into  Margao 
in  1560,  and  the  first  church  was  built  in  1565.  The  Jesuits  in  1574 
built  a  college,  which  was  subsequently  removed  to  Rachol,  a  village 
about  6  miles  north-east.  Margao  contains  a  town  hall,  Government 
schools,  a  theatre,  and  an  asylum.  The  military  barracks,  built  in 
181  r,  were  formerly  occupied  by  a  regiment,  but  at  present  by  the 
police,  a  small  military  detachment,  and  the  post  office.  From  Margao 
a  good  road  leads  south  to  Karwar,  the  chief  town  of  the  adjacent 
British  District  of  North  Kanara,  distant  44  miles. 

Margherita. — Village  in  the  Dibrugarh  subdivision  of  Lakhimpur 
District,  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  situated  in  270  17'  N.  and 
950  47'  E.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Buri  Dihing  river.  Margherita 
lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Patkai  range,  and  is  surrounded  on  every  side 
by  forest.  The  village  owes  its  prosperity  to  the  coal-mines  in  the 
neighbourhood.  The  coal  measures  consist  of  beds  of  alternating 
shales,  coal,  and  sandstones,  and  are  known  as  the  Makum  field. 
Five  mines  have  been  opened — the  Tikak,  Upper  Ledo,  Ledo  Valley, 
Tirap,  and  Namdang— which  in  1903  gave  employment  to  r,2oo 
coolies  working  under  9  Europeans.  The  output  in  that  year  was 
239,000  tons.  The  coal  is  on  the  whole  fairly  hard  and  compact, 
but  after  extraction  and  exposure  to  the  air  it  breaks  up  into  small 
pieces.  Mining  is  conducted  on  the  'square  or  panel'  system,  a 
modification  of  the  system  known  in  England  as  '  pillar  and  stall.' 
Margherita  is  connected  with  Dibrugarh  by  the  Dibru-Sadiya  Railway, 
which  crosses  the  Dihing  river  by  a  fine  bridge.  The  Coal  Company 
has  opened  a  large  pottery,  in  which  bricks,  pipes,  and  tiles  are  made. 
A  police  station  and  stockade  are  held  by  military  police  in  the 
vicinity.  The  weekly  market  is  much  frequented  by  the  hill  tribes, 
who  bring  down  rubber,  amber,  wax,  and  vegetables. 

Mari. — Village  in  the  District  and  tahsil  of  Mianwali,  Punjab, 
situated  in  7,2°  57'  N.  and  710  39'  E.,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Indus. 
Population  (1901),  1,490.  Mari  is  the  terminus  of  a  branch  line 
of  the  North-Western  Railway,  and  serves  as  a  depot  for  the  salt 
and  alum  of  Kalabagh.  Near  it  are  the  ruins  of  several  Hindu 
temples,  similar  to  those  at  Kafirkot  in  Dera  Ismail  Khan,  but 
larger  and  better  preserved. 

Mariahu. — Southern  tahsil  of  Jaunpur  District,  United  Provinces, 
comprising  the pargana  of  Mariahu  and  tappets  BarsathI  and  Gopalpur, 
and  lying  between  250  24'  and  250  44'  N.  and  820  24'  and  820  44'  E., 
with  an  area  of  321  square  miles.  Population  fell  from  253,402 
m  1891  to  243,792  in  1901.  There  are  676  villages  and  only  one 
town,   Mariahu  (population,    3,626),    the    tahsil  head-quarters.      The 


208  MARTAHV 

demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  3,21,000,  and  for  cesses 
Rs.  44,000.  The  density  of  population,  759  persons  per  square  mile, 
is  slightly  below  the  District  average.  Mariahu  is  divided  into  two 
nearly  equal  portions  by  the  Basuhl  river,  while  the  Sai  and  Barna 
form  its  north-eastern  and  southern  boundaries.  The  area  under  culti- 
vation in  1903-4  was  212  square  miles,  of  which  116  were  irrigated. 
There  are  about  1,200  small  tanks;  but  wells  are  by  far  the  most 
important  source  of  irrigation. 

Markandi. — Village  in  the  Garhchiroll  tahsil  of  Chanda  District, 
Central  Provinces,  situated  in  190  41'  N.  and  790  50'  E.,  56  miles 
south-east  of  Chanda  town  hy  road.  Population  (1901),  211.  The 
village  stands  on  a  bluff  overlooking  the  Wainganga,  and  is  remarkable 
for  an  extremely  picturesque  group  of  temples.  They  are  enclosed 
in  a  quadrangle  196  feet  by  118,  and  there  are  about  twenty  of  dif- 
ferent sizes  and  in  different  stages  of  preservation.  They  are  richly  and 
elaborately  sculptured,  and  are  assigned  to  the  tenth  and  eleventh 
centuries.  The  wall  surrounding  them  is  of  a  primitive  type,  and 
probably  much  older.  The  largest  and  most  elaborate  temple  is  that 
of  Markanda  Rishi.  There  are  also  some  curious  square  pillars 
sculptured  with  figures  of  soldiers,  and  probably  more  ancient  than 
the  temples.  A  religious  fair  is  held  annually  at  Markandi  in  February 
and  March,  lasting  for  about  a  month.  The  great  day  of  the  fair 
is  the  Sivaratri  festival,  when  the  attendance  amounts  to  10,000 
persons. 

Markapur  Subdivision. — Subdivision  of  Kurnool  District,  Madras, 
consisting  of  the  Markapur  and  Cumbum  taluks. 

Markapur  Taluk.  —  North-eastern  taluk  of  Kurnool  District, 
Madras,  lying  between  150  37'  and  160  18'  N.  and  780  50'  and 
790  34'  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,140  square  miles.  The  population 
in  1901  was  94,293,  compared  with  99,971  in  1891;  the  density 
is  only  83  persons  per  square  mile.  It  contains  76  villages,  12  of 
which  are  'whole  indmsJ  Most  of  these  latter  are  uninhabited. 
The  demand  for  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to 
Rs.  1,13,000,  which  is  lower  than  in  any  other  taluk  in  the  District. 
This  tlluk  and  Cumbum  are  situated  to  the  east  of  the  Nallamalais, 
which  separate  them  from  the  rest  of  the  District,  and  their  physical 
aspects  are  very  different  from  those  of  their  neighbours.  The  greater 
part  of  Markapur  is  hilly.  Several  low  ranges  intersect  it  :  and  down 
the  valleys  formed  by  these  flow  the  chief  rivers,  namely,  the  Duv- 
valeru,  the  Ralla  Vagu,  the  Tlgaleru,  and  the  Kandleru,  which  drain 
the  taluk  and  flow  into  the  Gundlakamma  river.  The  soil  is  mostly 
rocky  and  gravelly,  about  89  per  cent,  being  red  earth  of  a  poor 
description.  There  are  great  natural  facilities  for  impounding  rain- 
water in  tanks  ;    but  owing  to  the  sparseness  of  population  and  the 


MARMAGAO  209 

consequent  dearth  of  labour,  '  wet '  cultivation  is  not  popular  and 
the  tank  projects  are  unremunerative.  The  taluk  contains  the  largest 
number  of  wells  in  the  District,  and  nearly  two-thirds  of  its  irrigated 
area  is  watered  from  these  sources.  The  very  large  extent  of  'reserved' 
forests  (557  square  miles)  affords  ample  grazing  ground  for  cattle  and 
sheep,  for  which  Markapur  is  noted.  The  cattle  of  the  coast  Districts 
of  Nellore  and  Guntur  are  driven  to  the  Nallamalais  to  graze  during 
the  hot  season.  The  climate  in  the  western  half  of  the  taluk  bordering 
upon  the  Nallamalais  is  unhealthy,  but  that  of  the  eastern  half  is 
comparatively  salubrious.     The  annual  rainfall  averages  25  inches. 

Marmagao. — Peninsula,  village,  and  port  in  Salsette  district,  Goa, 
Portuguese  India,  and  the  terminus  of  the  West  of  India  Portuguese 
Railway,  situated  in  150  25'  N.  and  730  47'  E.  The  peninsula  of 
Marmagao  is  situated  on  the  southern  side  of  the  harbour  of  Goa, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Zuari  river,  and  is  connected  with  the  mainland 
by  a  narrow  strip  of  sand  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  and  elevated 
about  10  feet  above  the  sea.  The  whole  peninsula  is  composed  of 
laterite,  and  the  shore  is  fringed  with  heavy  boulders,  which  have 
crumbled  and  fallen  from  the  cliff.  The  summit  of  the  peninsula  is 
a  table-land,  about  180  to  200  feet  high,  composed  of  bare  laterite 
covered  with  loose  stones,  with  patches  of  grass.  The  slopes  of  the 
hill,  which  are  steep,  and  present  a  bold  appearance  seaward,  are 
covered  with  thick  jungle  and  scruh. 

The  village  and  port  of  Marmagao  are  situated  at  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  peninsula,  about  5  miles  south  of  Panjim.  Population 
(1900),  750,  mostly  Christians.  In  the  last  half  of  the  seventeenth 
century  the  Portuguese  Viceroy,  the  Count  of  Alvor,  resolved  to 
abandon  Goa,  and  transfer  the  seat  of  the  government  to  the  peninsula 
of  Marmagao.  In  1684-5  the  foundations  of  a  new  capital  were  laid 
and  the  work  progressed  favourably.  In  1 686  the  works  were  stopped 
by  his  successor.  During  the  next  fifteen  years  orders  were  repeatedly 
received  from  Portugal  to  demolish  the  public  buildings  of  Goa,  and 
to  apply  the  materials  to  the  construction  of  new  ones  at  Marmagao, 
while  the  Viceroys  were  directed  to  transfer  their  residence  to  that 
place.  During  the  Viceroyalty  of  Caetano  de  Mello  e  Castro,  the 
works  were  pushed  on  with  vigour,  and  several  buildings  were  com- 
pleted, among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  palace  and  the  hospital. 
The  Viceroy  himself  resided  at  Marmagao  for  a  few  months  in  1703. 
Suddenly  the  works  were  stopped  by  a  royal  letter  of  March  S.  1712. 
In  1739,  when  Goa  was  in  danger  of  falling  into  the  hands  of  the 
Marathas,  the  nuns  and  other  helpless  members  of  the  population 
sought  refuge  at  Marmagao. 

The  Government  buildings  are  now  mere  heaps  of  ruin.  The  only 
relic   of   importance    is    a    fine    old    church.     The    fortress    ha><    been 


2  to  MARMAGAO 

converted  into  an  hotel.  In  anticipation  of  the  trade  which,  it  is 
hoped,  will  be  developed,  now  that  goods  can  be  shipped  direct  from 
Marmagao  to  Europe,  measures  have  been  taken  to  improve  the 
harbour.  Since  1903  the  management  of  the  port,  as  well  as  of 
the  railway,  has  been  entrusted  to  the  Southern  Mahratta  Railway 
Company.  The  imports  in  the  year  1903-4,  by  sea  and  land, 
amounted  to  close  on  35  lakhs,  while  the  exports  were  valued  at 
ir  lakhs. 

Marot. — Ancient  fort  in  the  Khairpur  tahsil  of  Bahawalpur  State, 
Punjab,  situated  in  290  ior  N.  and  720  28'  E.,  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Hakra  depression.  It  was  probably  erected  by  Mahriit,  king  of  Chitor, 
an  opponent  of  Chach,  the  Brahman  usurper  of  the  throne  of  Sind. 
It  was  a  place  of  some  importance  in  the  early  Muhammadan  period, 
lying  on  the  direct  road  from  Multan  to  Delhi  via  Sarsuti  (Sirsa).  It 
was  wrested  by  the  Nawab  of  Bahawalpur  from  Jaisalmer  in  1749. 

Marri. —  Tahsil  and  town  in  Rawalpindi  District,  Punjab.  See 
Murree. 

Marri-Bugti  Country. — A  tribal  area  in  Baluchistan,  controlled 
from  Sibi  District,  lying  between  280  26'  and  300  4'  N.  and  670  55' 
and  690  48'  E.,  with  an  area  of  7,129  square  miles.  The  northern 
part,  the  area  of  which  is  3,268  square  miles,  is  occupied  by  the  Marris, 
and  the  southern  part,  3,861  square  miles,  by  the  Bugtis.  The  country 
is  situated  at  the  southern  end  of  the  Sulaiman  range.  It  is  hilly, 
barren,  and  inhospitable,  and  supplies  are  scarce.  Here  and  there  are 
good  pasture  grounds,  and  a  few  valleys  and  plains  are  gradually  being 
brought  under  cultivation.  The  valleys  and  plateaux  include  Nisau 
(3,000  feet),  Jant  All  (2,847  f"eet)>  Kahan  (2,353  feet)>  Mawand 
(2,620  feet),  and  Marav  (2,195  fee0-  The  rainfall  is  scanty  and  is 
chiefly  received  in  July. 

The  Marris  and  Bugtis  are  the  strongest  Baloch  tribes  in  the 
Province.  The  total  population  of  their  hills  was  38,919  in  1901,  or 
about  five  persons  to  the  square  mile.  The  Marris,  including  those 
living  in  the  British  tahsil  oi  Kohlu,  numbered  19,161,  with  140  Hindus 
and  1,090  other  persons  living  under  their  protection  (hamsdyah).  The 
population  of  the  Bugti  country  amounted  to  18,528,  comprising  15,159 
Bugtis,  272  Hindus,  708  hamsayahs,  and  2,389  maretds  or  servile 
dependants.  The  population  are  essentially  nomadic  in  their  habits, 
and  live  in  mat  huts.  The  total  number  of  permanent  villages 
decreased  from  eight  in  1901  to  five  in  1904;  the  most  important 
are  Kahan  (population,  about  400)  in  the  Marri  country,  and  Dera 
Bugti  (population,  about  1,500)  in  the  Bugti  country. 

Both  tribes  are  organized  on  a  system  suitable  to  the  predatory 
transactions  in  which  they  were  generally  engaged  in  former  times. 
Starting  from    a    small   nucleus,   each   gradually  continued  to  absorb 


MARRI-BUGTI  COUNTRY  21  r 

various  elements,  often  of  alien  origin,  which  participated  in  the 
common  good  and  ill,  until  a  time  arrived  when  it  was  found  necessary 
to  divide  the  overgrown  bulk  of  the  tribe  into  clans  (takkar),  the  clans 
into  sections  {phalli),  and  the  sections  into  sub-sections  {para  or firka). 
At  the  head  of  the  tribe  is  the  chief  {tumandar),  with  whom  are  asso- 
ciated the  heads  of  clans  {mukaddam)  as  a  consultative  council.  Each 
section  has  its  wadera,  with  whom  is  associated  a  mukaddam,  who  acts 
as  the  wadera1  s  executive  officer  and  communicates  with  the  motabars 
or  headmen  of  sub-sections.  Each  tribe  was  thus  completely  equipped 
for  taking  the  offensive.  In  pre-British  days  a  share  of  all  plunder, 
known  as  pa?ijot/i,  was  set  aside  for  the  chief;  headmen  of  clans  then 
received  their  portion,  and  the  remainder  was  divided  among  those 
who  had  taken  part  in  an  expedition.  Side  by  side  with  this  system 
there  still  exists,  among  the  Marris  and  the  Pairozani  Nothani  clan  of 
the  Bugtis,  a  system  of  periodical  division  of  all  tribal  land.  The 
three  important  clans  of  the  Marris  are  the  Gaznis  (8,100),  to  whom 
the  Bahawalanzai  or  chief's  section  belongs ;  the  Loharani-Shirani 
(6,400);  and  the  Bijrani  (4,700).  The  Bugtis  include  the  clans  of 
Pairozani  Nothani  (4,700),  Durragh  Nothani  (1,800),  Khalpar  (1,500), 
Massori  (2,900),  Mondrani  (500),  Shambani  (2,900),  and  Raheja  (880). 
The  chief's  section  belongs  to  the  latter.  The  chiefs  levy  no  revenue, 
but  usually  receive  a  sheep  or  a  goat  from  each  flock  when  visiting 
different  parts  of  their  country. 

The  early  history  of  both  tribes  is  obscure.  The  Marris  are  known 
to  have  driven  out  the  Kupchanis  and  Hasnis,  while  the  Bugtis 
conquered  the  Buledis.  Owing  to  the  great  poverty  of  their  country, 
both  tribes  were  continuously  engaged  in  plunder  and  carried  their 
predatory  expeditions  far  into  the  adjoining  regions.  They  came  in 
contact  with  the  British  during  the  first  Afghan  War,  when  a  force 
under  Major  Billamore  penetrated  their  hills.  In  April,  1840,  a  small 
detachment  was  sent,  under  Captain  Lewis  Brown,  to  occupy  Kahan 
and  guard  the  flank  of  the  lines  of  communication  with  Afghanistan  ; 
but  it  was  invested  for  five  months  and  two  attempts  at  relief  were 
beaten  off.  The  fort  was,  however,  only  surrendered  after  a  safe 
retreat  had  been  secured  from  Doda  Khan,  the  Marri  chief.  In  1845 
Sir  Charles  Napier  conducted  a  campaign  against  the  Bugtis,  who  fled 
to  the  Khetrans,  and  the  expedition  was  only  a  qualified  success. 
General  John  Jacob,  after  much  trouble  with  both  tribes,  but  especially 
with  the  Bugtis,  settled  some  of  the  latter  on  irrigated  lands  in  Sind 
in  1847,  but  many  of  them  shortly  afterwards  fled  to  their  native  hills. 
Both  tribes  were  subsidized  by  the  Khan  of  Kalat  after  the  treaty  of 
1854;  but  in  1859  Mir  Khudadad  Khan  was  obliged  to  make  an 
expedition  against  the  Marris,  accompanied  by  Major  (afterwards 
Sir  Henry)  Green.     Another  unsuccessful  campaign  followed  in   1S62. 


212  MARR1-BUGTI  COUNTRY 

Anarchy  ensued;  and  in  1867  Captain  (afterwards  Sir  Robert)  Sande- 
man,  then  Deputy-Commissioner  of  Dera  Ghazi  Khan,  entered  into 
direct  relations  with  them  and  took  some  of  them  into  the  service  of 
Government.  The  result  of  the  Mithankot  conference,  which  took 
place  between  Punjab  and  Sind  officials  in  1871,  was  to  place 
Sandeman  in  political  control  of  the  Marri-Bugti  country  under  the 
orders  of  the  Superintendent,  Upper  Sind  Frontier. 

On  the  establishment  of  the  Baluchistan  Agency  in  1877,  British 
relations  with  the  Marris  and  Bugtis  became  closer,  and  service  and 
allowances  were  given  to  them.  The  Bugtis  have  throughout  behaved 
well.  The  Marris,  in  August,  1880,  plundered  a  convoy  marching 
along  the  Harnai  route  and  killed  42  men,  whereupon  a  punitive 
expedition  was  dispatched  under  General  Sir  Charles  Macgregor,  to 
whom  the  Marri  chief  and  his  headmen  tendered  their  submission. 
They  paid  Rs.  1,25,000  in  cash,  out  of  a  fine  of  Rs.  1,75,000  inflicted 
on  them,  and  agreed  to  surrender  half  of  the  revenue  of  the  Kuat- 
Mandai  valley  until  the  balance  of  Rs.  50,000  had  been  paid  off. 
Since  then  the  Marris  have  given  little  trouble,  with  the  exception 
of  the  part  they  took  in  the  Sunari  outrage  in  1896,  when  they 
killed  11  men,  and  some  unrest  which  occurred  in  1898  and  ulti- 
mately ended  in  the  son  of  the  Marri  chief  emigrating  temporarily 
to  Afghanistan. 

Both  tribes  are  under  the  control  of  the  Political  Agent  in  Sibi,  with 
the  Extra-Assistant  Commissioner  of  the  Sibi  subdivision  in  subordinate 
charge.  Direct  interference  in  the  internal  affairs  of  the  tribes  is,  so 
far  as  possible,  avoided,  the  chiefs  being  left  to  decide  all  such  cases 
in  consultation  with  their  sectional  headmen  and  in  accordance  with 
tribal  custom.  The  task  of  the  Political  officers  is  chiefly  confined 
to  the  settlement  of  intertribal  cases  either  between  the  Marris  and 
Bugtis  themselves,  whose  relations  are  frequently  strained,  or  with  the 
neighbouring  tribes  of  Loralai  District  and  the  Punjab.  A  code  of 
penalties  for  the  infliction  of  particular  injuries,  such  as  murder,  the 
loss  of  an  eye  or  tooth,  Szc,  was  drawn  up  between  the  Marris  and 
Bugtis  in  1897,  and  is  followed  in  ordinary  circumstances.  Cases  of 
extraordinary  importance  are  referred  to  the  Shahi  jirga,  and  the 
Political  Agent  sees  that  the  award  is  carried  out.  Large  services 
have  been  given  to  both  tribes,  to  enable  the  chiefs  to  secure  control 
over  their  followers.  The  Marri  tribal  service  consists  of  1  head- 
man, 206  mounted  levies,  5  footmen,  and  8  clerks  and  menials  ;  35  of 
these  men  are  stationed  at  seven  posts  in  Loralai  District  and  109  at 
thirteen  posts  in  the  Administered  area  of  Sibi  District.  The  re- 
mainder hold  three  posts  in  the  Marri  country.  The  total  monthly 
cost  amounts  to  Rs.  5,600.  The  Bugti  service  includes  3  head- 
men,  136  mounted  levies,  4  footmen,  and  6  clerks,  costing  Rs.  3.800 


MASAR  213 

monthly.  The  posts  on  the  south  of  the  Bugti  country  are  controlled 
from  the  Naslrabad  tahsll. 

Marriw. — Petty  State  in  the  Khasi  Hills,  Eastern  Bengal  and 
Assam.  The  population  in  1901  was  2,289,  an<^  tne  gross  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  380.  The  principal  products  are  rice,  millet,  and 
maize.     Lime  is  found  in  the  State,  but  is  not  worked. 

Martaban. — Ancient  Talaing  capital  in  Thaton  District,  Lower 
Burma.     See  Thaton  District. 

Marutvamalai. —  Isolated  hill,  forming  the  southernmost  extremity 
of  the  Western  Ghats,  in  the  Agastlswaram  taluk  of  Travancore  State, 
Madras,  situated  in  8°  8'  N.  and  770  35'  E.,  about  5  miles  north-west 
of  Cape  Comorin.  Tradition  regards  it  as  having  been  dropped  from 
the  Oshadhi  Parvatam,  or  '  medicine  hill,'  while  this  latter  was  being 
taken  by  Hanuman  from  the  Himalayas  to  cure  the  wound  of  Laksh- 
mana  sustained  during  the  battle  with  Ravana's  forces.  It  is  still 
believed  to  be  the  abode  of  sages  and  to  contain  many  species  of  rare 
medicinal  herbs. 

Marwar. — Another  name  for  the  Jodhpur  State  in  Rajputana, 
but  in  former  times  applied  to  about  half  of  the  Agency.  Marwar  is 
a  corruption  of  Maru-war,  classically  Marusthala  or  Marusthan,  also 
called  Marudesa,  whence  is  derived  the  unintelligible  Mardes  of  the 
early  Muhammadan  writers.  The  word  means  the  'region  of  death,' 
and  hence  is  applied  to  a  desert.  Abul  Fazl  thus  described  it  in 
1582  :  'Marwar  is  in  length  100,  and  in  breadth  60  kos.  The  sarkars 
of  Ajmer,  Jodhpur,  Sirohi,  Nagaur,  and  Blkaner  are  dependent  on  it. 
The  Rathor  tribe  have  inhabited  this  division  for  ages  past.  Here 
are  many  forts,  of  which  the  following  are  the  most  famous  :  namely, 
Ajmer,  Jodhpur,  Blkaner,  Jaisalmer,  Umarkot,  and  Jainagar.'  In 
Tod's  Rajasthan  it  is  said  that  'its  ancient  and  appropriate  applica- 
tion comprehended  the  entire  desert  from  the  Sutlej  to  the  ocean.' 
The  tract  has  given  its  name  to  the  numerous  enterprising  traders 
known  as  Marwaris  or  Marwari  Banias,  who  have  spread  far  and  wide 
over  India,  and  acquired  an  important  share  in  the  commerce  of  the 
country. 

Marwat  Tahsll. — Tahsll  of  Bannu  District,  North-West  Frontier 
Province,  lying  between  320  16'  and  320  53'  N.  and  700  23'  and 
710  16'  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,198  square  miles.  The  whole  tahsll  is 
one  large  sandy  plain.  Its  population  in  1901  was  96,332,  compared 
with  84,145  in  1891.  It  contains  the  town  of  Lakki  (population, 
5,218),  the  head-quarters;  and  145  villages.  The  land  revenue  and 
cesses  in   1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  1,30,000. 

Masar. — Village  in  the  head-quarters  subdivision  of  Shahabad 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  250  t,^'  N.  and  840  35'  E.,  a  little  to 
the  south  of  the  East  Indian  Railway,  about  6  miles  west  of  Arrah. 


2T4  MASAR 

Population  (tooi),  3,073.  Masar  has  been  identified  with  the  Mo- 
ho-so-lo  of  the  Chinese  pilgrim  Hiuen  Tsiang,  and  from  his  account 
must  then  have  stood  close  to  the  Ganges.  The  river  now  flows 
9  miles  to  the  north,  but  traces  of  the  high  banks  of  its  old  channel 
still  remain.  The  old  name  of  Masar,  as  proved  by  seven  inscriptions 
in  the  Jain  temple  of  Parasnath,  was  Mahasara  ;  but  the  original  name 
is  said  to  have  been  Sonitpur,  famous  as  the  residence  of  Bana  Raja, 
whose  daughter  Usha  was  married  to  a  grandson  of  Krishna1.  There 
is  a  Jain  temple  here  with  several  Brahmanical  images  and  an  inscrip- 
tion dated  1386.  Dr.  Buchanan-Hamilton  discovered  some  Buddhist 
images  in  a  heap  of  mud  and  bricks  to  the  west  of  the  village,  which 
he  assigned  to  the  Cheros.  There  are  fourteen  fine  old  wells  and 
numerous  tanks.  The  population  of  the  old  town  has  been  estimated 
at  about  20,000.  At  present  it  is  only  a  straggling  village.  A  colossal 
image  found  at  Masar  was  in  1882  removed  to  Arrah,  and  the  frag- 
ments being  pieced  together,  it  was  set  up  in  the  public  garden  at  that 
place ;  it  appears  to  be  of  the  Gupta  period.  Among  other  statues, 
those  of  Mahamaya  and  Bhairab  are  noteworthy. 

Masein. — Southern  township  of  the  Upper  Chindwin  District, 
Upper  Burma,  extending  from  the  Yoma  in  the  west  across  the 
Chindwin  river  to  Shwebo  District  in  the  east,  between  230  io"  and 
23°  35'  N.  and  940  15'  and  940  58'  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,334  square 
miles.  The  population,  which  is  wholly  Burman,  was  12,646  in  1891, 
and  14,365  in  1901,  distributed  in  156  villages.  Masein  (population, 
1,118),  on  the  Chindwin  river,  about  30  miles  below  Kindat,  is  the 
head-quarters.  The  whole  of  the  township  is  a  network  of  small  hills 
and  narrow  valleys.  The  area  cultivated  in  1903-4  was  26  square 
miles,  and  the  land  revenue  and  thathameda  amounted  to  Rs.  40,000. 

Maskhal; — Island  in  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam.     See  Maiskhal. 

Mastuj. — Village,  fort,  and  district  subject  to  Chitral,  in  the  Dir, 
Swat,  and  Chitral  Agency,  North-West  Frontier  Province,  situated 
in  360  17'  N.  and  720  33''  E.  The  village  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Mastuj  river,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Laspur,  at  an  elevation  of 
7,800  feet  above  sea-level.  Mastuj  is  not,  properly  speaking,  part 
of  Chitral  State.  It  has  often  been  conquered  by  Chitral  and  has  at 
times  conquered  it.  At  present  Mastuj  is  governed  by  a  Mehtarjao, 
an  uncle  of  the  Mehtar  of  Chitral,  who  is  independent  of  him,  though 
Mastuj  is  part  of  the  Chitral  Agency.  The  climate  in  winter  is  severe, 
owing  to  the  cold  winds  which  blow  down  the  valleys.  An  inscription 
at  Barenis,  a  neighbouring  village  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mastuj 
river,  shows  that  Chitral  was  included  in  the  kingdom  of  Jaipal, 
king  of   Kabul,  about   a.d.  900,   and   that  its   inhabitants   were  then 

1  Tezpur  in  Assam  also  claims  to  have  been   called   Sonitpur,  and  to  have  been 
the  capital  of  this  Raja. 


MASULIPATAM    TOWN  215 

Buddhists.     Its  history  is  that  of  Chitral,   and  it  has  a  population 
of  about  6,000. 

Masulipatam  Subdivision.  --  Subdivision  of  Kistna  District, 
Madras,  consisting  of  the  Bandar  taluk. 

Masulipatam  Town  (in  Hindustani  Machhlipatan  =  '  fish-town  '  j 
popularly  known  as  Bandar  =  '  the  port ').  —  Head-quarters  of  the 
Kistna  District,  Madras,  situated  in  i6c  n'  N.  and  8i°  8'  E.,  on 
the  Bay  of  Bengal,  215  miles  north  of  Madras  City.  The  town  is 
made  up  of  three  parts  :  the  fort,  the  native  quarter,  and  the  European 
quarter.  Of  these  the  fort,  which  is  situated  close  to  the  sea,  is  now 
little  more  than  a  memory.  The  barracks  and  arsenal,  which  fell  into 
decay  after  the  withdrawal  of  troops  (first  in  1834  and  finally  in  1864), 
have  now  been  pulled  down  ;  the  churches  are  in  ruins,  and  the  private 
houses  that  formerly  stood  here  were  destroyed  by  the  great  cyclone 
of  1864.  Round  the  fort  stretches  a  vast  expanse  of  waste  land, 
swamp  during  the  rainy  season  but  firmer  in  summer,  over  which  a 
causeway  about  two  miles  in  length,  running  in  a  westerly  direction, 
leads  to  the  native  town.  In  this  part  of  Masulipatam  it  is  still  pos- 
sible to  distinguish  the  separate  stations  of  the  various  nationalities 
which  traded  here  centuries  ago.  French-pettah,  occupying  a  space 
of  about  1,300  square  yards,  the  ownership  of  which  (though  not  the 
sovereignty)  is  vested  in  the  French  Government,  and  English-palem 
are  here ;  while  some  distance  to  the  north-west  lies  Valanda-palem 
(Hollander-town)  with  the  old  Dutch  graveyard.  Close  at  hand  is  the 
former  council  chamber  of  the  Netherlands  East  India  Company,  now 
used  as  a  court-house.  North  of  the  native  quarter  along  a  sand  ridge 
are  built  the  houses  of  the  European  residents. 

Unless  the  railway  recently  sanctioned  from  Bezwada  should  revive 
its  commercial  importance  by  connecting  it  again  with  the  outside 
world,  the  interest  of  Masulipatam  will  continue  to  lie  in  the  past. 
Its  manufactures,  principally  chintzes  and  coloured  cloths,  have  been 
crushed  out  of  the  market  by  English  piece-goods  ;  and,  since  the 
opening  of  the  railway  to  Bombay,  that  city  has  superseded  Masuli- 
patam as  the  port  for  the  Nizam's  Dominions.  The  East  Coast  Rail- 
way has  also  contributed  to  the  extinction  of  the  sea-borne  traffic 
formerly  carried  on  between  Masulipatam,  Cocanada,  and  the 
southern  coast  of  India.  The  annual  imports  are  now  valued  at 
only  Rs.  7,11,000,  and  the  exports  at  Rs.  10,31,000. 

As  to  the  origin  of  Masulipatam  we  have  no  certain  information, 
and  its  real  history  begins  early  in  the  seventeenth  century.  In  161 1 
the  East  India  Company  dispatched  the  ship  Globe,  commanded  by 
Captain  Hippon,  to  open  a  trade  with  the  Coromandel  coast ;  and  in 
161 2  the  vessel  took  a  cargo  of  cotton  goods  and  other  fabrics  to 
Bantam   and  Siam,   returning   to   Masulipatam    in   the  following  year. 


2 ib  MASULIPATAM   TOWN 

With  Captain  Hippon  sailed,  in  the  capacity  of  a  supercargo,  Peter 
Floris,  a  Dutchman,  who  has  left  a  diary  describing  how  English  trade 
was  begun  at  the  place.  For  many  years  disputes  raged  between  the 
new-comers  and  the  Dutch.  In  1628  the  English  were  compelled  to 
remove  to  Armagon  on  the  Nellore  coast,  but  in  1632  they  returned 
to  Masulipatam,  having  obtained  a  farman  from  the  Sultan  of  Gol- 
conda.  By  this  time  the  town  had  become  of  much  importance  ;  and 
it  is  described  by  a  Dominican  friar,  who  visited  it  in  1670,  as  being 
'  famous  all  along  the  coast  of  Coromandel,'  and  as  '  resembling  Babel 
in  the  variety  of  tongues  and  the  differences  of  garbs  and  costumes.' 

In  1686  the  Dutch  seized  the  government  of  Masulipatam  and 
ordered  the  English  not  to  trade  outside  the  town.  The  English, 
undaunted,  warned  the  Dutch  not  to  interfere  with  their  trade  '  on 
account  of  the  ill  consequences  that  may  be';  and  in  1690  the 
Madras  Government  obtained  a  farman  from  the  Mughal  emperor 
authorizing  them  to  reopen  their  factories  along  the  coast.  Trade, 
however,  appears  to  have  been  on  a  very  small  scale;  for  in  1726 
the  Masulipatam  and  Madapollam  factories  were  maintained  at  a  cost 
of  628  pagodas  per  annum,  while  the  Vizagapatam  factory  at  the  same 
date  cost  6,000  pagodas. 

In  1750  Masulipatam  was  seized  by  the  French  under  the  orders 
of  Dupleix,  and  continued  in  their  possession  until  1759.  In  1758, 
with  a  view  to  divert  the  attention  of  the  French,  who  were  then 
preparing  for  a  strenuous  effort  in  the  Carnatic  and  the  siege  of 
Madras  city,  an  expedition,  consisting  of  300  Europeans  and  1,400 
sepoys  under  Colonel  Forde,  was  dispatched  by  Clive  from  Calcutta 
to  Vizagapatam.  This  force  speedily  found  itself  hampered  on  all 
sides,  and  it  seems  to  have  been  a  counsel  of  despair  that  prompted 
Colonel  Forde  to  march  on  Masulipatam.  Arrived  there,  he  found 
a  means  of  escape  in  the  ship  Hardivicke,  which,  with  two  other 
vessels,  was  at  anchor  in  the  roads.  Before  resorting  thereto,  how- 
ever, Colonel  Forde  resolved  on  the  desperate  enterprise  of  endeavour- 
ing to  storm  the  fort.  Although  it  was  held  by  a  force  superior  to  his 
own,  and  a  French  corps  with  native  auxiliaries  manoeuvred  in  his 
rear,  fortune  favoured  him,  and  the  attack,  delivered  early  in  1759, 
was  successful.  The  Subahdar  of  the  Deccan,  the  most  powerful 
auxiliary  of  the  French,  was  shortly  afterwards  forced  to  negotiate 
with  the  English,  owing  to  the  attack  made  on  his  kingdom  by  his 
brother  Nizam  All;  and  under  a  treaty  signed  on  May  14,  1759, 
Masulipatam  with  the  adjacent  territory  passed  to  the  Company. 
Thereafter  its  political  history  was  uneventful.'  It  became  the  head- 
quarters of  a  Chief  and  Council.  These  were  abolished  in  1794, 
and  a  Collector  was  appointed.  In  1834  the  occupation  of  the  fort 
by    European   troops    was   discontinued,   and   the  native  garrison   was 


MAT  217 

withdrawn  in  1864.  The  trade  of  the  port  has  steadily  diminished. 
The  opening  of  the  Bezwada-Masulipatam  canal  in  1863  gave  promise 
of  a  revival,  but  these  hopes  were  dashed  to  the  ground  by  the  tidal 
wave  of  1864,  which  practically  wiped  much  of  the  town  off  the  face 
of  the  earth.     As  many  as  30,000  people  perished  in  this  catastrophe. 

In  1 90 1  the  population  of  Masulipatam  was  39,507 :  namely, 
34,126  Hindus,  4,635  Musalmans,  714  Christians,  and  32  'others.' 
It  was  constituted  a  municipality  in  1866.  During  the  ten  years 
ending  1902-3  the  municipal  receipts  and  expenditure  averaged 
Rs.  56,000.  In  1903-4  they  were  Rs.  62,000  and  Rs.  57,000  respec- 
tively. Most  of  the  income  is  derived  from  house  arid  land  taxes, 
tolls,  and  fees  from  markets  and  slaughter-houses. 

The  Masulipatam  carpet  industry,  formerly  famous,  is  now  almo.it 
extinct ;  and  the  beautiful  carpets  which  used  to  be  largely  exported 
to  England  are  seldom  seen.  Printed  cloths  are  still  manufactured, 
but  the  lessening  demand  for  them  will  soon  kill  the  industry.  There 
is  a  tannery  in  the  town,  which  sends  out  annually  skins  worth  from 
Rs.  50,000  to  Rs.  60,000.  The  principal  educational  institution  is  the 
Church  Missionary  Society's  first-grade  college,  called  after  its  founder, 
Dr.  Noble.  The  Hindu  high  school  is  a  private  institution  teaching 
up  to  the  matriculation  standard. 

Masura. — Town  in  the  Malvan  tdluka  of  Ratnagiri  District,  Bom- 
bay, situated  in  160  10'  N.  and  730  32'  E.,  8  miles  north-east  of  Malvan. 
Population  (1901),  8,855.  ^  nas  been  identified  as  the  Muziris  of 
Ptolemy  and  the  Periplus,  one  of  the  chief  marts  of  Western  India  ; 
but  the  identification  is  disputed. 

Mat  (Mant). — North-eastern  tahsll  of  Muttra  District,  United 
Provinces,  conterminous  with  the  pargana  of  the  same  name,  lying 
between  270  35'  and  270  58'  N.  and  77°  31'  and  770  50'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  223  square  miles.  Population  rose  from  89,451  in  1891  to 
97,370  in  1901.  There  are  142  villages,  but  no  town.  In  1903-4  the 
demand  for  land  revenue  was  Rs.  2,65,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  43,000. 
The  density  of  population,  437  persons  per  square  mile,  is  much  below 
the  District  average.  The  Jumna  forms  the  western  boundary  of  the 
tahsll,  and  parallel  to  its  course  lie  a  series  of  depressions  marking 
an  old  bed.  Nohjhil,  the  most  northern  of  these,  was  formerly  a  lake 
6  miles  long  by  a  mile  broad,  but  it  has  been  drained.  The  Motiy//// 
in  the  south,  which  is  smaller,  still  contains  water,  and  is  celebrated 
for  the  number  of  fish  caught  in  it.  A  small  stream  called  the  Patwaha 
is  used  as  a  canal  escape.  Eight  and  sandy  soil  prevails  in  the  tahsiL 
which  forms  a  long  strip  of  land  stretching  along  the  Jumna,  the  valley 
being  narrow  and  badly  defined.  Up  to  1903  canal-irrigation  was 
confined  to  very  few  villages,  and  in  1903-4  only  53  square  miles  were 
irrigated  (chiefly  by  wells),  out  of  a  cultivated  area  of  170  square  miles. 


218  MAT 

The  new  Mat  brunch  of  the  Upper  Ganges  Canal  now  commands 
a  considerable  area. 

Matabhanga  River  (or  Hauli). — One  of  the  three  Nadia  Rivers 
of  Bengal,  the  other  two  being  the  BhagIrathi  and  JalangI.  All 
these  rivers  are  offshoots  of  the  Ganges,  and  form  the  head-waters 
of  the  Hooghlv  river.  The  Matabhanga  has  its  principal  off-take 
from  the  Ganges  in  240  4'  N.  and  88°  48'  E.,  about  10  miles  below 
the  point  where  the  JalangI  diverges  from  it.  The  off-take  is  subject 
to  the  same  shifting  and  changing  as  that  of  the  BhagIrathi.  Lower 
down,  the  Matabhanga  is  a  comparatively  narrow  stream  with  well- 
defined  banks  throughout.  It  flows  first  in  a  south-easterly,  and 
afterwards  in  a  tortuous  south-westerly  direction,  to  Krishnaganj,  due 
east  of  Krishnagar,  the  head-quarters  of  Nadia  District.  During  the 
past  century  it  has  had  many  vicissitudes.  It  had  formerly  an  outlet 
to  the  east  of  the  delta ;  but,  owing  to  the  gradual  silting  up  of  this 
tract,  it  subsequently  left  its  bed  and  turning  west  occupied  in  turn 
parts  of  the  channels  of  the  Kumar,  Ichamati  (2),  and  ChurnI  rivers. 
It  now  joins  the  Hooghly  near  Chakdaha,  in  230  9'  N.  and  88°  29'  E., 
after  a  course  of  129  miles.  For  the  first  40  miles  after  leaving  the 
Ganges  it  is  still  known  as  the  Hauli  or  Kumar,  while  the  true  Kumar 
river,  locally  known  as  the  Pangasi,  is  now  connected  with  it  only 
during  the  rains.  The  Ichamati  is  now  merely  an  offshoot  of  the 
Matabhanga.  During  the  rainy  season  the  Matabhanga  is  navigable 
by  large  boats  and  river  steamers,  but  during,  the  dry  season  it  is 
almost  always  closed  to  traffic. 

Matabhanga  Village.— Head-quarters  of  a  subdivision  of  Cooch 
Behar  State,  Bengal,  situated  in  260  23'  N.  and  890  50"  E.,  on  the 
emigration  road  to  Assam.  Population  (1901),  1,283.  It  contains 
a  high  school. 

Matamuhari. — River  of  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam.  Rising  in  the 
range  of  mountains  dividing  Arakan  from  Chittagong,  in  210  14'  N. 
and  920  36'  E.,  it  flows  north-west  through  the  Chittagong  Hill  Tracts, 
and,  turning  westward  as  it  leaves  the  hills,  forms  a  broad  delta  as  it 
pours  into  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  in  210  45'  N.  and  910  57'  E.,  after  a 
course  of  96  miles.  It  was  up  the  mouths  of  this  delta  that  the  storm- 
wave  of  October,  1897,  rushed  with  tremendous  violence,  destroying 
every  living  creature  within  its  range.  The  delta  is  of  Sundarban 
character,  consisting  of  groups  of  islets  intersected  by  a  network  of 
tidal  creeks  and  covered  by  mangrove  jungle.  This  is  rapidly  being 
cleared  ;  the  lands  are  being  embanked  to  exclude  the  salt  water,  and 
the  creeks  are  silting  up,  and  rich  crops  of  rice  are  grown  with  but 
scanty  tillage  on  these  virgin  soils  built  up  by  river  silt.  The  principal 
place  on  its  banks  is  Chakiria,  a  good-sized  village  where  there  is 
A  police  station. 


MATHER AX 


2  19 


Matar.  —Western  tdluka  of  Kaira  District,  Bombay,  lying  between 
22°  26'  and  220  50'  N.  and  72°  30'  and  720  47'  E.,  with  an  area  of 
216  square  miles.  Besides  the  main  portion,  some  isolated  villages 
lie  separated  from  the  rest  by  belts  of  Baroda  and  Cambay  territory. 
The  tdluka  contains  one  town,  Matar  (population,  4,001),  the  head- 
quarters :  and  81  villages.  The  population  in  1901  was  61,522,  com- 
pared with  79,285  in  1891.  The  density,  285  persons  per  square  mile, 
is  much  below  the  District  average.  The  land  revenue  and  cesses 
in  1903-4  amounted  to  more  than  3  lakhs.  The  country  lacks  natural 
drainage,  so  that  the  climate  is  malarious  during  the  rains.  Rice  lands 
are  found  in  many  parts. 

Matari. — Town  in  the  Hala  tdluka  of  Hyderabad  District,  Sind, 
Bombay.     See  Matiari. 

Mathabhanga. — River  in  Bengal.     See  Matabhanga. 

Mathabhanga. — Town  in  Cooch  Behar  State,  Bengal.  See  Mata- 
bhanga. 

Matheran  ('The  wooded  head,'  or  'the  mother's  wood;). — Hill 
sanitarium  in  the  Karjat  tdluka  of  Kolaba  District,  Bombay,  situated 
in  180  58"  X.  and  730  16'  E.,  2,460  feet  above  sea-level,  about  30  miles 
east  of  Bombay  city.  The  hill  was  explored  in  May,  1850,  by  Mr.  Hugh 
Malet,  of  the  Bombay  Civil  Service,  and  to  him  belongs  the  credit  of 
making  its  advantages  known.  It  is  delightfully  situated  on  an  outlier 
of  the  Western  Ghats,  commanding  noble  views  of  the  plain  which 
separates  the  mountain  chain  from  the  sea.  The  traveller  proceeds 
from  Bombay  by  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway  to  Neral  station 
(54  miles),  at  the  north-east  foot  of  the  hill,  and  thence  to  Matheran 
(7  miles)  by  palanquin  or  pony.  The  road  winds  upwards  through  rich 
forests,  and  though  broad  enough  for  two  ponies  is  unfit  for  carriages 
or  carts.  Matheran  has  recently  been  connected  with  Neral  station  by 
a  2-ft.  gauge  mountain  railway,  similar  to  the  Siliguri-Darjeeling  line. 

The  summit,  which  has  an  area  of  about  8  square  miles,  consists 
of  a  main  central  block  and  two  smaller  side  ridges  or  wings,  thickly 
wooded  and  affording  good  riding  ground.  The  central  block  has  an 
average  breadth  of  about  half  a  mile,  and  stretches  nearly  north  and 
south  from  the  narrow  ridge  of  Hart  Point  to  the  rounded  bluff  of 
Chauk  in  the  south.  It  may  be  roughly  divided  into  three  parts  : 
a  north,  middle,  and  south  section.  For  about  a  mile  from  Hart  Point 
to  the  Church  plateau  the  northern  section  is  thinly  peopled,  with  only 
a  broken  line  of  houses  separated  by  stretches  of  wood.  On  the  Church 
plateau  the  houses  stand  closer  together,  and  along  the  edge  of  the 
eastern  cliff  groups  of  huts  and  small  shops  cluster  round  the  market- 
place. The  slopes  of  the  central  portion  are  the  thickest  peopled  part, 
with  rows  of  closely  grouped  houses  stretching  across  nearly  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  hill. 

vol.  xvn.  P 


2  2o  MATHER  AN 

The  peculiar  charm  of  Matheran  is  its  Points.  These  form,  as  it 
were,  rocky  promontories  jutting  into  mid-air,  from  which  the  spectator 
looks  down  upon  the  valleys  more  than  2,000  feet  below.  In  the 
morning  the  mist  lies  over  the  plains,  and,  as  it  gradually  melts  before 
the  rising  sun,  discloses  one  by  one  the  villages  and  fields  which  it  has 
concealed  beneath.  The  six  leading  Points  or  headlands  are  the  Hart 
at  the  north  and  Chauk  at  the  south  of  the  central  hill ;  Panorama 
Point  at  the  north  and  Garbat  at  the  south  of  the  east  wing ;  and 
Porcupine  Point  at  the  north  and  Louisa  at  the  south  of  the  west 
wing.  In  addition  to  these,  three  other  spots  are  known  as  the  Artist, 
Sphinx,  and  Bartle  Points.  Of  the  several  smaller  bluffs  the  seven 
most  important  are  :  Alexander,  Little  Chauk,  One  Tree  Hill,  Danger, 
Echo,  Landscape,  and  Monkey. 

A  very  striking  view  is  obtained,  especially  in  the  evening  light,  from 
Panorama  Point.  The  level  plain  extends  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  to 
the  broken  coast-line,  about  40  miles  off.  The  great  city  of  Bombay, 
with  its  towers  and  shipping,  lies  under  the  sunset,  and  the  ocean 
stretches  beyond.  Besides  the  beauty  of  the  summit  and  of  its  views, 
a  great  charm  in  Matheran  is  the  plateau  or  terrace  that  almost 
encircles  the  hill  from  200  to  300  feet  below  its  crest.  This  belt  has  a 
rich  soil,  yearly  freshened  by  mould  washed  down  from  the  higher  land. 
The  hill-sides  are  scarred  by  several  small  streams,  which,  though  dry 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  bear  in  their  clean-swept  rocky 
channels  traces  of  the  strength  of  their  monsoon  floods.  The  rides 
through  the  woods  have  a  special  freshness  from  the  sea-breeze  ;  and, 
although  the  elevation  is  not  lofty  enough  to  counteract  the  heats  of 
summer,  it  suffices  to  render  Matheran  a  cool  and  salubrious  retreat 
for  the  citizens  of  Bombay  during  the  spring  and  autumn  months. 

In  spite  of  the  heavy  rainfall,  even  the  largest  streams  cease  to  flow 
soon  after  Christmas.  Of  eleven  springs,  only  two — Harrison's  on  the 
east  and  Malet's  on  the  west  of  the  main  hill-top — last  throughout  the 
year.  The  latter  has  never  been  known  to  fail,  and  supplies  the  only 
drinking-water  used  by  European  visitors.  Matheran  is  singularly  free 
from  malaria ;  there  is  no  marsh  on  any  part  of  the  hill,  every  stream 
bed  is  a  bare  rock,  and  in  almost  all  seasons  the  forest  can  be  entered 
without  risk.  This  freedom  from  malaria  makes  Matheran  a  healthy 
place  to  most  visitors.  The  returns  for  the  ten  years  ending  1903  give 
an  average  yearly  rainfall  of  251  inches.  The  thermometer  readings 
show  that,  on  an  average,  December  and  January  are  the  coldest 
months,  with  a  mean  maximum  of  66°,  and  May  and  June  the 
warmest,  with  a  mean  of  820. 

According  to  the  Census  of  1901,  the  total  number  of  inhabitants, 
inclusive  of  the  local  hill-men,  was  3,060,  rising  to  4,738  in  the  hot 
season.     The  majority  of  visitors  to  Matheran  are  Parsis,  of  whom  the 


MATIARI  221 

greatest  number  come  from  Bombay.  As  a  place  of  resort  Matheran 
has  two  seasons  :  after  the  rains  in  October  and  November,  and  from 
April  i  to  the  middle  of  June.  The  management  of  the  station  is 
entrusted  to  the  Civil  Surgeon,  who,  with  the  title  of  Superintendent, 
has  within  its  limits  the  powers  of  a  first-class  Magistrate.  Subject  to 
the  Collector  of  Kolaba,  he  has  the  entire  management  of  the  station, 
looking  after  the  repairs  of  roads,  settling  the  charges  of  palanquin- 
bearers,  pony-keepers,  and  porters,  and  regulating  the  use  of  water, 
the  conservancy  arrangements,  and  the  market.  A  municipality  was 
established  in  1905.     The  receipts  are  estimated  at  Rs.  15,000. 

The  chief  public  buildings  ate  the  post  and  telegraph  offices,  the 
Bairamji  Jijibhoy  Hospital,  the  Superintendent's  residence,  the  police 
lines,  the  resthouse,  the  hotels,  market,  the  library,  gymkhana,  a  church, 
and  a  Catholic  chapel.  There  is  one  school.  The  leading  Points  on 
the  hill-top  may  be  comfortably  seen  in  three  rides  or  walks  from  one 
of  the  hotels.  Excursions  may  also  be  made  to  Prabal  Point,  where 
there  is  a  fort  of  the  same  name,  which  signifies  '  mighty.'  For  this 
place  the  excursionist  starts  from  Louisa  Point,  which  overlooks 
a  majestic  cliff,  whence  in  the  rainy  season  a  cataract  100  feet  in 
width  falls  into  the  valley  below  by  a  single  leap  of  1,000  feet.  Until 
within  the  last  fifty  years,  Matheran  hill  was  inhabited  solely  by  wild 
forest  races  of  non-Aryan  origin  and  predatory  habits — Dhangars, 
,  Thakurs,  and  Kathkaris.  These  still  linger  on  the  slopes  and  at  the 
foot  of  the  hills,  but  their  little  communities  have  considerably  declined 
in  numbers.  Some  of  them  may  still  be  seen  at  the  weekly  Sunday 
bazar  on  the  hill.  Interesting  accounts  of  Matheran  have  been  pub- 
lished by  J.  Y.  Smith,  M.l).  (Edinburgh,  1871),  and  by  Mrs.  A.  K. 
Oliver  (Bombay,   1905). 

Mathura.— District,  tahsi/,  and  city  in  the   United   Provinces.     See 

MUTTRA. 

Mathwar. — Thakurat  in  the  Bhopawar  Agency,  Central  India. 

Matiari  (Matdri). — Town  in  the  Hala  ialuka  of  Hyderabad  Dis- 
trict, Sind,  Bombay,  situated  in  250  36'  N.  and  68°  29'  E.,  on  a 
slight  eminence,  20  miles  south  of  Hala  town,  and  r6  miles  north 
of  Hyderabad.  Population  (190 1),  6,608.  The  local  trade  includes 
grain,  oilseeds,  cotton,  silk  piece-goods,  and  sugar.  Matiari  is  said  to 
have  been  founded  in  1322,  and  possesses,  besides  a  fine  Jama  Masjid, 
built  in  1803,  the  tombs  of  two  saints  of  renowned  sanctity.  At  these 
shrines  annual  fairs  are  held  in  September  and  October,  and  each  is 
attended  by  from  2,000  to  3,000  Muhammadans.  The  municipality, 
established  in  1868,  had  an  average  income  during  the  decade 
ending  190 1  of  Rs.  9,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  3,650. 
The  town  contains  a  dispensary  and  four  schools,  of  which  one  is. 
for  girls. 

p  2 


222  MA  TLA 

Matla. — Village  in  the  District  of  the  Twenty-four  Parganas,  Bengal. 
See  Canning,  Port. 

Matra  Timba. — Petty  State  in  Kathtawar,  Bombay. 

Mattancheri. — Commercial  capital  of  Cochin  State,  Madras,  and 
head-quarters  of  the  Cochin  taluk,  situated  in  90  57'  N.  and  760 
15'  E.,  on  the  backwater  opposite  to  Ernakulam  and  adjoining  the 
British  town  of  Cochin.  Area,  2-|  square  miles  :  population  (1901), 
20,061,  of  whom  9,466  are  Hindus,  5,607  Christians,  4,489  Musal- 
mans,  and  474  Jews.  It  is  the  centre  of  a  considerable  export  and 
import  trade,  which  is  almost  entirely  in  the  hands  of  Banias  and 
Cutchi  Mentions  from  the  Bombay  Presidency.  There  are  several 
steam  oil-mills  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  a  hydraulic  press  in  the 
centre  of  the  town.  Mattancheri  is  said  to  have  been  formerly  the 
capital  of  the  State,  and  contains  a  spacious  old  palace  of  quaint 
Dutch  design,  where  the  Rajas  of  Cochin  are  still  installed.  Histo- 
rically the  most  interesting  part  of  the  place  is  what  is  known  as  the 
Jews'  Town,  which  is  exclusively  inhabited  by  the  White  and  Black 
Jews.  They  settled  here  after  their  expulsion  from  Cranganur  by  the 
Portuguese  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  formed  a  prosperous  colony. 
But  of  late  years  they  have  been  declining  in  both  numbers  and 
affluence.  They  have  three  old  synagogues  in  the  town.  Among 
modern  institutions  of  note  are  the  large  and  richly  endowed  Konkani 
temple  of  Tirumala  Devaswam,  and  the  women  and  children's  hospital, 
which  contains  accommodation  for  20  in-patients. 

Mau  Tahsil  (1). — Eastern  tahsll  of  Banda  District,  United  Pro- 
vinces, conterminous  with  the  pargana  of  Chhibun,  lying  along  the 
Jumna,  between  250  5'  and  250  24'  N.  and  8i°  7'  and  8i°  34'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  316  square  miles.  It  is  included  in  the  Kanvi  subdivision 
of  the  District.  Population  fell  from  73,658  in  1891  to  64,921  in 
1 90 1.  There  are  164  villages  and  one  town,  Rajapur  (population, 
5,491).  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  86,000, 
and  for  cesses  Rs.  14,000.  The  density  of  population,  205  persons 
per  square  mile,  is  slightly  below  the  District  average.  In  the  south 
the  outer  range  of  the  Vindhyas  crosses  the  tahsll  in  three  terraces. 
The  forests  and  jungles  are  gradually  diminishing,  owing  to  the  export 
of  wood  to  Allahabad.  In  t  903-4  less  than  one  square  mile  was 
irrigated,  out  of  132  square  miles  under  cultivation. 

Mau  Tahsil  (2). —  Tahsll  of  Jhansi  District,  United  Provinces,  con- 
terminous with  the  pargana  of  the  same  name,  lying  between  250  6' 
and  250  29'  N.  and  780  49'  and  790  19'  E.,  with  an  area  of  439  square 
miles.  Population  fell  from  115,724  in  1891  to  100,298  in  1901. 
There  are  164  villages  and  only  one  town,  Mau-Ranipur  (population, 
17,231),  the  tahsil  head  quarters.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  1,23,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  21,000.     The  density  of 


MAU    TO  WW  22$ 

population,  228  persons  per  square  mile,  is  considerably  above  the 
District  average.  The  tahs'U  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Dhasan 
river,  but  towards  the  south  and  west  is  much  intermixed  with  portions 
of  Orchha  State.  The  southern  portion  is  generally  wild  and  hilly, 
dotted  with  artificial  lakes  and  fertile  irrigated  valleys,  but  displaying 
also  great  tracts  of  barren  waste.  In  the  centre  the  country  is  more 
open  and  there  is  little  irrigation.  Farther  north  again  the  soil  is 
chiefly  black  soil,  deteriorating  near  the  wild  nullahs  which  fringe  the 
Dhasan  :  this  part  has  suffered  much  from  the  inroads  of  kans  (Saccha- 
rum  spontaneum).  In  1902-3  the  area  under  cultivation  was  190  square 
miles,  of  which  13  were  irrigated,  wells  supplying  more  than  three- 
fourths  of  the  irrigated  area. 

Mau    Town    (1). — British    cantonment    in    Indore    State,   Central 
India.     See  Mhow. 

Mau  Town  (or  Maunath  Bhanjan)  (2). — Town  in  the  Muhammad, 
abad  tahsll  of  Azamgarh  District,  United  Provinces,  situated  in  250  57' 
N.  and  830  34/  E.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Tons  and  on  the  Bengal  and 
North-Western  Railway,  at  the  junction  of  the  branch  from  Shahganj 
through  Azamgarh  town  with  the  line  from  Gorakhpur  to  Benares. 
Population  (1901),  17,696.  The  town  is  of  some  antiquity,  though 
the  date  of  its  foundation  has  not  been  ascertained.  It  is  mentioned 
in  the  Ain-i-Akbarl  as  the  head-quarters  of  a  mahdl  or  pargana ;  and 
during  the  reign  of  Shah  Jahan  that  emperor  bestowed  the  town  upon 
his  daughter,  Jahanara  Begam,  and  it  received  in  a  special  degree  the 
royal  favour.  A  sarai  built  by  this  lady  still  exists.  At  that  period 
the  town  is  said  to  have  contained  84  mukallas,  or  wards,  and  360 
mosques.  At  the  time  of  the  cession  to  the  British,  Mau  was  held  in 
jaglr  by  one  of  the  Oudh  Begams  ;  but  the  town  had  suffered  severely 
from  previous  misrule,  and  has  never  regained  its  former  prosperity. 
A  commercial  resident  was  appointed  for  Mau  and  Azamgarh  in  1802  ; 
and  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  country  traffic,  investments  in  Mau 
cloths  were  made  for  some  years  on  behalf  of  the  Company.  Private 
enterprise  kept  up  the  trade  for  a  time  after  the  abolition  of  the 
Company's  monopoly  ;  but  the  introduction  of  English-made  yarn  and 
cloth  gave  a  great  blow  to  it.  Since  the  opening  of  the  railway,  how- 
ever, trade  has  revived  to  some  extent,  and  fewer  weavers  leave  the 
town  to  seek  employment  in  the  mills  of  Bombay  and  Calcutta.  The 
population  largely  consists  of  fanatical  Julahas  (Muhammadan  weavers), 
and  religious  friction  is  always  present.  In  1893  Mau  was  the  scene  of 
sanguinary  riots,  arising  from  the  agitation  against  the  slaughter  of  kine. 
There  are  no  public  buildings  besides  the  dispensary,  police  station, 
and  post  office  ;  but  Mau  is  an  important  railway  centre,  and  contains 
the  head-quarters  of  an  Engineer,  a  District  Traffic  Superintendent, 
and  a  Locomotive  Superintendent.     It  is  administered  under  Act  XX 


224  MAU  TOWN 

of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about  Rs.  3,000.  Muslin  and  satin  are 
largely  woven,  and  there  is  a  small  manufacture  of  silk.  There 
are  two  schools  for  boys  with  83  pupils,  and  two  for  girls  with  77. 

Mau  Aimma. — Town  in  the  Soraon  tahsil  of  Allahabad  District, 
United  Provinces,  situated  in  250  42'  N.  and  8i°  56'  E.,  on  the 
metalled  road  from  Allahabad  city  to  Fyzabad  and  on  a  branch 
of  the  Oudh  and  Rohilkhand  Railway.  Population  (1901),  6,769. 
This  was  the  first  place  in  the  District  in  which  plague  broke  out 
in  1899,  having  been  imported  direct  from  Bombay.  Mau  Aimma 
is  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about 
Rs.  1,000.  It  was  once  celebrated  for  its  cotton  cloth ;  but  the 
industry  has  declined  and  many  of  the  Julaha  inhabitants  (Muham- 
madan  weavers)  now  seek  work  in  Bombay.  There  is,  however,  a 
flourishing  local  traffic  in  grain,  cloth,  cotton,  sugar,  and  tobacco,  which 
is  likely  to  increase  since  the  opening  of  a  railway.  The  school 
has  about  64  pupils. 

Ma-ubin  District  (Ma-it  tree,  Nauclea  Cadamba).— District  of  the 

Irrawaddy  Division,  Lower  Burma,  lying  between  i6°3o/and  i7°25/N. 

and  950  15'  and  950  55'  E.     It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Henzada 

District ;  on  the  east  by  Hanthawaddy  ;    on  the  west  by  Myaungmya 

and  Bassein  ;    and  on  the  south  by  Pyapon.     The  District  is  at  the 

head  of  the  lower  delta  of  the  Irrawaddy,  which  enters  it  on  the  north, 

and  shortly  afterwards,  at  the  upper  end  of  what  is  known  as  Ma-ubin 

Island,  sends  an  important  offshoot  called  the  To 
PhvsiC3.1  ■  •  • 

as      ts  or  China  Bakir  river  to  the  east.    The  main  stream, 

under  the  name  of  the  Yazudaing,  passes  on  to  the 

south-west,  and   divides   into   a   number   of  other   tidal  channels  in 

Myaungmya   and    Pyapon   Districts.      The   surface    of    the    country 

is  generally  low,  the  greater  part  being  subject  to  annual  inundation, 

except    where   protected   by   embankments.      During   the   rains   the 

Irrawaddy  rises  about  25   feet  higher  than  in   the  dry  season,  and, 

where  unhindered    by    dikes,    spreads    over    the    country  and    forms 

vast  lakes,  out  of  which  the  higher  lands  emerge   like  islands.      As 

is  the  case  with  all  silt-depositing  rivers,  the  surface  of  the  country 

close  to  the  banks  is  higher  than  it   is  inland,  so  that  between  the 

main    streams    there   is   not   a    watershed    but   a    depression.     These 

low-lying  plains  are  covered  with   long  grass  interspersed  with  trees, 

and,    though   very   fertile,    are   generally   too    deeply   flooded    to    be 

cultivable.     Eying  within  the  main  banks  of  the  river  are  numerous 

large  sandbanks  and  islands,  flooded  during  the  rains,  but  furnishing 

excellent  ground  for  vegetable  gardens  in  the  dry  season  and  extensive 

grazing   grounds  for   the  cattle.     The   permanent   cultivation,  except 

where  there  are  embankments,   is   practically   confined    to   the   land 

immediately  adjoining  the  main  banks  of  the  river. 


MA-UBIN   DISTRICT  225 

The  District  is  an  alluvial  flat,  unbroken  by  any  rising  ground,  and 
it  cannot  be  said  to  possess  any  geological  features  worthy  of  record. 
The  vegetation,  which  is  largely  swamp,  resembles  that  in  Haxtha- 
waddy  District,  in  the  tracts  farther  from  the  sea.  The  fauna  is 
similar  to  that  of  Myaungmya  and  Pvapon.  The  elephant  and 
tiger  are  scarce,  but  leopards  are  not  uncommon  and  crocodiles 
abound. 

The  climate  is  generally  healthy,  but  at  the  same  time  most 
enervating.  The  approximate  mean  temperature  is  about  820.  Low- 
lying  and  moist,  the  District  swarms  with  mosquitoes.  The  European 
houses  at  the  head-quarters  are  provided  with  rooms  of  which  the 
doors  and  windows  are  made  of  perforated  zinc  to  keep  out  these 
pests,  and  in  places  the  villagers  have  to  protect  not  only  their 
own  bodies  but  those  of  their  cattle  at  night  by  means  of  gauze 
curtains.  Though  the  District  is  wet  and  flat,  disastrous  floods  are 
extremely  rare,  owing  to  the  embankments  ;  and  when  they  occur, 
they  are  restricted  to  small  areas. 

The  rainfall  is  heaviest  in  the  south,  averaging  92  inches  at  Ma-ubin, 
83  inches  at  Pantanaw,  80  inches  at  Yandoon,  and  72  inches  at  the 
northernmost  station,  Danubyu,  or  an  annual  average  of  82  inches 
for  the  District  altogether.  In  the  north  it  is  more  variable  than 
in  the  south,  but  on  the  whole  it  is  fairly  regular  and  seldom 
insufficient. 

Danubyu,  in  the  north  of  the  District,  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
Irrawaddy,  is  the  only  place  of  historical  importance.  It  is  famous 
for  the  stand  made  against  the  British  by  the 
Burmese  general,  the  Maha  Bandula,  in  1825. 
The  side  of  the  fort  facing  the  river  was  nearly  a  mile  long,  and 
behind  it  was  a  garrison  of  20,000  men.  This  position  was  unsuccess- 
fully attacked  by  two  columns  under  General  Cotton,  the  greater  part 
of  the  troops  engaged  being  killed  or  wounded.  Reinforcements  were 
applied  for,  and  the  Commander-in-Chief,  Sir  Archibald  Campbell, 
brought  up  his  batteries.  On  the  first  day  of  the  bombardment 
the  Maha  Bandula  was  killed  by  the  bursting  of  a  shell,  and  the 
Burmans  thereupon  evacuated  the  place.  In  the  War  of  1852  no 
attempt  was  made  to  hold  Danubyu  ;  but  after  the  occupation  of 
Prome  a  force  was  gathered  by  an  ex-thi/gyi  named  Nga  Myat  Tun, 
who  repeatedly  drove  back,  with  considerable  loss,  the  small  detach 
ments  sent  against  him.  After  some  delay  his  stronghold  was  carried 
by  a  larger  British  force,  and  the  country  gradually  settled  down. 
Part  of  the  fort  walls  are  still  to  be  seen  at  Danubyu,  occupied  by 
monasteries  ;  and  under  the  shadow  of  the  Nandawgon  pagoda  is 
a  small  cemetery  containing  the  remains  of  those  who  fell  in  the 
second  War, 


2  6 


MA-UBIN  DISTRICT 


Originally  part  of  Henzada  and  Rangoon,  a  new  District,  embracing 
the  present  Ma-ubin  District,  and  called  after  the  village  of  Thongwa 
near  Ma-ubin,  was  formed  in  1875.  This  area  was  divided,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  rapid  spread  of  cultivation  and  large  increase  in  the 
population,  first  in  1893  on  the  formation  of  Myaungmya  District, 
and  again  in  1903  when  the  District  of  Pyapon  came  into  existence. 
At  the  last  change  the  name  of  Ma-ubin  was  substituted  for  that 
of  Thongwa. 

The  population  of  the  area  now  forming  Ma-ubin  District  was 
176,000  in  1881  ;  216,930  in  1891  ■  and  283,122  in  1901.  Its 
distribution  in   1901  is  shown  in  the  following  table: — 


Township. 

<u 
'- 
cS 
3 

»a 

«H 

k. 

< 

^22 
483 
331 
305 

Number  of 

c 

0 

"3 

C 
O 
Ph 

Sji 
g'i 

3  3 

0    U) 

(Li 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 

population  be- 
tween 1891 
and  1 901. 

Number  of 
persons  able  to 
read  and 
write. 

u5 

c 

0 

H 



I 

I 

I 

7 

& 

be 
> 

Ma-ubin     . 
Pantanaw  . 

Yandoon    . 
Danubyu    . 

District  total 

118 
92 

Si 
127 

77,792 
62,374 
57,923 
85,033 

M9 
1  29 

175 

278 

+  58 
+   29 
—      I 
+  39 

21,800 
16,416 
14,285 
18,087 

1,641 

418 

283,1  22 

173 

+  30 

70,588 

The  chief  towns  are  Yandoon  and  Ma-ubin,  the  District  head- 
quarters. The  decrease  of  population  in  the  Yandoon  township 
during  the  ten  years  ending  1901  is  largely  due  to  a  falling  off  in 
the  inhabitants  of  Yandoon  town,  the  trade  of  which  was  killed 
by  the  opening  of  the  railway  to  Mandalay.  Elsewhere  the  growth 
during  the  decade  in  question  has  been  conspicuous,  being  largely 
due  to  the  attractions  presented  by  the  rich  delta  areas  to  the  in- 
habitants of  the  poorer  tracts  farther  north.  The  stream  of  immi- 
gration flows  mainly  from  the  Districts  of  Magwe,  Myingyan,  Mandalay, 
Pakokku,  and  from  the  Upper  and  Lower  Chindwin.  By  far  the 
greater  part  of  the  population  is  Buddhist  ;  in  1901  Musalmans 
numbered  3,500  and  Hindus  4,800.  In  all  200,000  of  the  population 
spoke  Burmese,  and  70,000  Karen. 

Between  two-thirds  and  three-fourths  of  the  population  are  Burmans ; 
of  the  balance  the  greater  part  is  made  up  of  Karens,  who  numbered 
70,000  in  1 90 1,  forming  nearly  half  of  the  population  of  the  Pantanaw 
township,  one-fourth  of  that  of  the  Yandoon  township,  and  a  fifth 
of  that  of  the  Ma-ubin  township.  Not  quite  60  per  cent,  of  the  popu- 
lation is  agricultural.  Owing  to  territorial  changes,  it  is  not  possible 
to  show  from  the  census  figures  the  occupations  of  the  remainder, 
most  of  whom  are  doubtless  petty  traders  or  fishermen. 

The  native  Christian  population  in   1901   numbered  5,100  (mainly 


AGRICULTURE 


22" 


Karen  converts).  The  American  Baptist  Mission  works  among  the 
Karens  (Pwos  and  Sgaws),  and  Roman  Catholic  missionaries  have  sta- 
tions at  Ma-ubin  and  Yandoon.     Both  these  missions  maintain  schools. 

The  soil  is  a  stiff  yellow  clay,  deficient  in  lime,  but  well  adapted 
to  the  cultivation  of  rice.  It  is  so  rich  that  systematic  ploughing 
is  rarely  resorted  to.     Large  areas,  especially  in  the  . 

inundated  tracts,  are  not  ploughed  at  all,  but  the 
long  grass  is  cut  down  and  burnt,  and  the  rice  sown  broadcast 
without  transplanting.  The  lands  along  the  margins  of  the  rivers, 
enriched  by  an  annual  deposit  of  silt,  produce  tobacco,  chillies,  and 
other  crops.  The  whole  of  the  Danubyu  and  most  of  the  Ma-ubin 
township,  with  parts  of  Pantanaw  and  Yandoon,  are  protected  by 
embankments.  The  largest  of  these  is  the  Ma-ubin  Island  embank- 
ment, nearly  80  miles  in  length,  which  encloses  a  large  area  to  the 
west  of  the  town  of  Ma-ubin.  A  somewhat  smaller  area  to  the  east 
is  protected  by  the  Thongwa  Island  embankment,  between  30  and 
40  miles  in  length.  In  the  north  of  the  District  is  the  southern 
end  of  the  Henzada  embankment,  which  extends  along  the  western 
bank  of  the  Irrawaddy  for  nearly  40  miles,  ending  near  the  town 
of  Pantanaw.  The  area  thus  protected  is  approximately  360  square 
miles.  On  unprotected  lands  the  deposit  of  silt  is  artificially  increased 
by  cutting  channels  through  the  high  banks,  at  right  angles  to  the 
river,  to  the  low-lying  country  beyond.  This  artificial  raising  of  the 
level  enables  crops  to  be  grown  on  stretches  which  would  otherwise 
be  too  low  for  cultivation. 

The  cropped  area  increased  from  312  square  miles  in  1S90-1 
to  562  in  1900-1.  For  1903-4  the  main  agricultural  statistics  (in 
square   miles)  are  as  follows  : — 


Township. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

2l6 

125 
109 

I78 

1 
Irrigated. 

Forests. 

Ma-ubin  .... 

Pantanaw 

Yandoon 

Danubyu 

Total 

522 

48.3 
331 
3°5 

0-2 
O-I 

o-3 

0.4 

I 

-     20 

1,641 

628 

1 

20 

The  area  under  rice  (all  kaukkyt)  in  1903-4  was  533  square  miles, 
and  that  under  plantains  and  other  fruit  trees  17,000  acres.  Tobacco, 
mostly  in  Danubyu,  covered  3,500  acres,  and  chillies  in  Pantanaw 
6,300  acres.  The  average  rice  holding  measures  a  little  over  20  acres. 
Holdings  are  smaller  in  the  north  than  in  the  south. 

There  is  a  certain  amount  of  cattle-breeding.  Few  ponies  are 
kept,  as  there  is  little  use  for  them.  Reserves  for  grazing  are  more 
than  45,000  acres  in  extent. 


228  MA-UBIX  DISTRICT 

The   fisheries   are   usually    in   fresh-water   lakes   and  streams  con- 
nected with  the  Irrawaddy,  and  subject  to  tidal  influence,  but  affected 

to  a  much  greater  extent   by  the  monsoon  floods. 
Fisheries 

They  are  mostly  in  the  southern  townships  of  Panta- 

naw  and  Ma-ubin.     All  but  a  small  part '  of  the  revenue  is  derived 

from  leased  fisheries,  which  realized  more  than  7A  lakhs  in  1903-4, 

almost   one-third    of    the   total   revenue   in    the   Province   from   this 

source.      The  waters  leased  are    carefully  demarcated   and   mapped, 

and  the  right  to  fish  is  let  by  auction  every  three  years.     Licences 

for   netting   are  also  issued  and  are  made  use  of  in   the  navigable 

waterways.     These  yielded  in  the  same  year  Rs.  12,800.     The  leased 

fisheries  are  usually  worked  by  means   of  weirs  and  bamboo  traps. 

An  exhaustive  inquiry  made  by  Major  Maxwell  between   1897   and 

1899    resulted    in    the   larger   fisheries    being   subdivided,    and    none 

now   yields    much   over   Rs.   7,000  a  year.     The  fresh  fish   is  taken 

to  Rangoon  and  other  places  by  boat.     A  great  deal  is  made  into 

fish-paste  (ngapi),  and  exported  to  all  parts  of  Burma.     The  industry 

has  declined  with  the  spread  of  cultivation,  the  rule  being  that  where 

the  interests  of  the   fisherman  and  the  cultivator  are  irreconcilable 

those  of  the  former  must  yield.     The  construction  of  embankments, 

the   chief   enemy   of   the    fisherman,   has    now   probably  reached   its 

limit,  and  to  avoid  disputes  the  spheres  of  interest  of  the  fisherman 

and  the  cultivator  have  been  delimited.      The    fisherman's    average 

profits  are  lower  than  the  cultivator's,  partly  because  the  industry  is 

highly  speculative  and,  though  the  takings  are  occasionally  enormous, 

losses  are    very  common ;    partly   because    fishing   is    the   hereditary 

occupation  of  the    earlier  Talaing   inhabitants,  who   cling    to    it   for 

sentimental   reasons.      The   fisheries   are   looked   after   by   a    special 

staff  of  two  i/ikunwutts  and  four  inspectors. 

The  forests  are  unimportant,  consisting  of  five  small  Reserves  in 
the  Yandoon  subdivision,  with  an  area  of  only  20  square  miles. 

No   artistic  work   is  produced    in  the   District.     The    manufacture 

of  fine  mats  from  the  reed  called  thin  (Phrynium  dichotomum)  gives 

employment  to  a  number  of  women   in   the  north. 

Trade  and        The  rQ,   after  jjejn„  steeped  in  water,  is  split  and 

communications.  .    ,',,«.  •  ,  ™,  .        •    ■> 

the  rind  peeled  off  m  two  layers.      The  outer  rind 

is  smoother  than  the  rest  and  is  woven  separately  into  a  fine  mat, 
under  which  a  coarser  one,  made  of  the  inner  rind,  is  placed.  The 
two  are  then  tacked  together  and  the  result  is  the  thinbyu,  the 
Burman's  ordinary  bed.  A  smart  mat-weaver  can  turn  out  a  mat 
6  feet  'by  2-|  feet  in  one  day.  A  few  rice-mills  are  worked  in  the 
District. 

The  principal  exports  are   rice,  fish-paste  {n^o.pi)   dispatched  from 
Yandoon  to  all    parts  of   Burma,   and   horns   and   hides.      They  are 


AD  MINTS  TRA  TIOX  2  2  9 

practically  all  river-borne.  A  good  deal  of  firewood  goes  to  Rangoon. 
The  imports  consist  for  the  most  part  of  hardware,  piece-goods,  and 
kerosene  oil. 

In  1903-4,  48  miles  of  metalled  roads  and  18  miles  of  unmetalled 
roads  were  maintained  from  the  District  cess  fund.  In  addition, 
a  number  of  unmetalled  roads  are  kept  up  from  Provincial  funds, 
but  the  numerous  waterways  provide  the  chief  communications. 
The  majority  of  the  larger  creeks  and  streams,  with  which  the 
southern  areas  are  intersected,  are  navigable  by  light-draught  steamers, 
launches,  and  boats.  Ma-ubin  is  well  served  by  the  steamers  and 
launches  of  the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company,  and  to  a  small  extent 
also  by  launches  and  boats  belonging  to  natives.  There  are  14 
licensed   ferries. 

For  administrative  purposes  the  District  is  divided  into  two  sub- 
divisions :  Ma-ubin,  comprising  the  Ma-ubin  and  Pantanaw  town- 
ships ;  and  Yandoon,  comprising  the  Yandoon 
and  Danubyu  townships.  These  are  under  the  mmis  ra  'on- 
usual  executive  officers,  assisted  by  422  village  headmen.  The 
District  forms  a  subdivision  of  the  Myaungmya  Public  Works  divi- 
sion, and  is  included  in  the  Henzada-Thongwa  Forest  division. 

Ma-ubin  forms  part  of  the  Delta  (judicial)  Division,  and  the 
Divisional  Judge  tries  sessions  cases.  Till  recently  the  judicial  work 
was  performed  by  the  executive  staff:  but  the  new  scheme  has  pro- 
vided a  special  District  Judge,  with  head-quarters  at  Myaungmya, 
who  exercises  jurisdiction  in  Ma-ubin,  Myaungmya,  and  Pyapon, 
a  subdivisional  judge  for  Ma-ubin,  and  three  township  judges,  one 
for  Ma-ubin,  one  for  Pantanaw  and  Yandoon,  and  one  for  Danubyu. 
The  crime  of  the  District  presents  no  special  features. 

The  method  of  assessing  land  revenue  under  the  Burmese  regime 
varied  in  different  localities,  but  the  recognized  demand  was  based 
on  the  number  of  yoke  of  plough  cattle  used  by  the  cultivator,  and 
amounted  to  about  half  the  gross  out-turn.  The  first  settlement  was 
made  in  1S68,  when  a  uniform  rate  of  Rs.  1-12  per  acre  was  levied 
on  all  classes  of  cultivation  in  the  Danubyu  township.  In  1S69-70 
further  portions  of  the  District  were  settled.  The  rates  of  assess- 
ment then  imposed  ranged  from  Rs.  1-4  to  Rs.  2-4  per  acre,  accord- 
ing to  the  distance  of  the  land  from  Rangoon  and  the  fertility  of 
the  soil.  In  1879-80  these  were  summarily  enhanced  in  certain 
circles  by  amounts  varying  from  6  to  25  per  cent.  ;  and  in  1SS9  91 
the  rates  ranged  from  Rs.  1-8  to  Rs.  2-8.  The  first  regular 
settlement  of  the  whole  District  was  made  between  1888  and  1891, 
when  rates  were  fixed  ranging  from  Rs.  1-8  to  Rs.  3  per  acre  for 
rice  cultivation,  and  from  Rs.  2  to  Rs.  3  for  orchards:  vegetables, 
tobacco,  &c,  were  assessed  at  Rs.  2  per  acre. 


23° 


MA-UBIN  DISTRICT 


The  following  table  shows,  in  thousands  of  rupees,  the  growth  of 
the  District  revenue  since  1881  : — 


1 880-1. 

1 890- 1. 

1 900- 1. 

1903-4. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

3,oo 
14,00 

6,00 
15,00 

8,00 
16,00 

9-53 
26,64 

The  District  cess  fund  is  made  up  of  a  rate  of  10  per  cent,  on 
the  land  revenue,  with  receipts  from  markets  and  other  sources, 
bringing  the  total  to  1-4  lakhs  in  1903-4.  About  a  fourth  of  this 
is  contributed  to  Provincial  funds,  and  Rs.  17,300  is  spent  on  educa- 
tion, Rs.  10,000  on  District  launches,  Rs.  13,500  on  postal  com- 
munications, Rs.  5,300  on  hospitals,  and  the  balance  mostly  on 
roads  and  resthouses.  Yandoon  and  Ma-ubin  are  municipalities, 
and  Danubyu  is  managed  by  a  town  committee. 

Under  the  District  Superintendent  of  police  are  2  Assistant  Super- 
intendents in  charge  of  the  two  subdivisions,  with  a  subordinate 
force  consisting  of  4  inspectors,  7  head  constables,  30  sergeants, 
and  203  constables,  distributed  in  6  police  stations  and  8  outposts. 
The  total  strength  of  military  police  is  155  of  all  ranks,  with  3  native 
officers.  Of  these,  90  are  stationed  at  the  District  head-quarters,  the 
rest  being  distributed  at  the  three  outlying  township  head-quarters ; 
their  duties  are  mainly  the  escort  of  prisoners  and  treasure. 

Ma-ubin  possesses  a  District  jail,  with  accommodation  for  389 
prisoners.  The  usual  industries  are  carried  on ;  but  special  reference 
may  be  made  to  the  manufacture  of  jute  money-bags,  which  are 
supplied  by  Ma-ubin  to  all  the  Government  treasuries  in  the  Pro- 
vince. The  jail  is  almost  self-supporting,  as  it  grows  its  own  rice 
and  manufactures  its  own  ngafii. 

The  percentage  of  literate  persons  in  Ma-ubin  District  in  1901  was 
41  in  the  case  of  males  and  7  in  that  of  females,  or  25  for  both 
sexes,  which  for  a  delta  District  with  a  considerable  Indian  immi- 
gration is  fairly  high.  In  1904  the  District  contained  ir  secondary, 
185  primary,  and  167  elementary  (private)  schools,  with  a  total 
attendance  of  7,394  boys  and  1,377  girls.  The  expenditure  on  edu- 
cation amounted  to  Rs.  28,600,  including  Rs.  17,300  from  Local  funds, 
Rs.  4,300  from  municipal  funds,  Rs.  5,100  from  fees,  and  Rs.  1,700 
from  Provincial  funds.     Subscriptions  amounted  to  only  Rs.  200. 

There  are  hospitals  at  Ma-ubin,  Yandoon,  and  Pantanaw,  and  a 
dispensary  at  Danubyu.  The  hospitals  have  accommodation  for  52  in- 
patients. In  1903  the  number  of  cases  treated  was  22,420,  including 
659  in-patients,  and  873  operations  were  performed.  The  income 
amounted  to  Rs.  11,000,  towards  which  municipal  funds  contributed 
Rs.  8,000,  and  the  District  cess  fund  Rs.  2,500. 


MAUD  AH  A    TAHSIL  231 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  within  the  limits  of  the  Vandoon  and 
Ma-Ubin  municipalities.  In  1903-4  the  number  of  successful  vacci- 
nations was  6,136,  representing  13  per  1,000  of  population. 

[H.  M.  S.  Mathews,  Settlement  Report  (1893);  Major  F.  D.  Maxwell, 
Report  on  Inland  and  Sea  Fisheries  (1904);  B.  Samuelson,  History 
of  Embankments,  Henzada  Division  (1899). 

Ma-ubin  Subdivision. —  Subdivision  of  Ma-ubin  District,  Lower 
Burma,  consisting  of  the  Ma-ubin  and  Pantanaw  townships. 

Ma-ubin  Township.— Township  of  Ma-ubin  District,  Lower  Burma, 
lying  between  160  30'  and  160  56'  N.  and  950  27'  and  950  52'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  522  square  miles.  The  head-quarters  are  at  Ma-ubix 
(population,  6,623),  a's0  tne  head-quarters  of  the  District.  In  addition 
to  the  town  of  Ma-ubin,  it  contained  118  villages  in  1901,  and  at  the 
Census  of  that  year  had  a  population  of  77,792,  compared  with  48,200 
in  1891.  The  township,  which  is  a  dead  level  throughout,  lies  in  the 
heart  of  the  delta  country,  being  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Irrawaddy 
and  traversed  by  the  To  or  China  Baklr  river.  The  great  majority  of 
the  population  are  Burmans,  about  one-fifth  being  Karens.  The  area 
cultivated  in  1903-4  was  216  square  miles,  paying  Rs.  3,44,000  land 
revenue. 

Ma-ubin  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  District  of  the  same  name, 
Lower  Burma,  situated  in  160  44'  N.  and  950  42'  E.,  along  the  right 
bank  of  the  China  Baklr  stream,  in  the  heart  of  the  delta  country. 
Population  (1901),  6,623.  Approximately  three-quarters  of  the  popu- 
lation are  Burmans.  Hindus  number  rather  less  than  1,000,  and 
Musalmans  are  about  half  as  numerous  as  Hindus.  The  town  is  of 
comparatively  recent  creation  and  had  achieved  no  notoriety  before 
1874,  when  it  was  chosen  as  the  head-quarters  of  the  new  delta  District 
of  Thongwa.  It  is  fiat  and  barely  above  flood-level,  and  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  year  swarms  with  mosquitoes.  The  jail  and  the 
usual  public  buildings  stand  near  the  river  bank.  Ma-ubin  was  con- 
stituted a  municipality  in  1888.  The  receipts  of  the  municipal  fund 
during  the  ten  years  ending  1 900-1  averaged  Rs.  24,500,  and  the 
expenditure  Rs.  24,600.  In  1903-4  the  municipal  income  amounted 
to  Rs.  54,000,  the  chief  sources  being  markets,  &c.  (Rs.  18,000),  and 
area  and  frontage  tax  (Rs.  2,500)  ;  and  the  expenditure  amounted  to 
Rs.  34,000,  including  conservancy  (Rs.  7,300),  hospital  (Rs.  4,500), 
and  education  (Rs.  2,500).  The  principal  schools  are  those  maintained 
by  the  American  Baptist  and  Roman  Catholic  Missions,  while  the 
municipality  keeps  up  a  hospital.  Ma-ubin  is  one  of  the  principal 
ports  of  call  in  the  delta  for  the  steamers  of  the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla 
Company,  and  is  a  thriving  trade  centre  for  paddy  and  ngapi. 

Maudaha  Tahsil.  —  Tahsil  in  Hamirpur  District,  United  Pro- 
vinces, comprising  the  parganas  of  Maudaha  and  Muskira,  and  lying 


232  MAUD  AH  A   TAHSIL 

between  250  30'  and  250  52'  N.  and  790  43'  and  8o°  21'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  452  square  miles.  Population  fell  from  103,900  in  1891  to 
87,322  in  1901,  or  by  19  per  cent.  There  are  130  villages  and  one 
town,  Maudaha  (population,  6,172).  the  head-quarters.  The  demand 
for  land  revenue  in  1904-5  was  Rs.  1,76,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  36,000. 
The  density  of  population,  193  persons  per  square  mile,  is  below  the 
District  average.  On  the  east  the  tahsil  is  bounded  by  the  Ken,  and 
on  the  west  by  the  Birma.  It  contains  a  large  proportion  of  fertile 
black  soil ;  but  the  north-west  is  very  inferior,  and  the  land  near  the 
rivers  is  cut  up  by  ravines.  In  1902-3  the  area  under  cultivation  was 
230  square  miles,  of  which  only  2  were  irrigated. 

Maudaha  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  tahsil  of  the  same  name, 
in  Hamirpur  District,  United  Provinces,  situated  in  250  40'  N.  and 
8o°  7'  E.,  on  the  Cawnpore-Saugor  road.  Population  (1901),  6,172. 
According  to  tradition  a  Muhammadan,  named  Husain,  with  the  help 
of  some  Parihar  Rajputs,  expelled  the  Kols  who  resided  here  and  took 
possession  of  the  place.  In  1730  Diler  Khan,  a  son  of  the  governor  of 
Allahabad,  was  slain  here,  and  his  tomb  attracts  a  considerable  number 
of  votaries.  The  fort  was  first  built  by  Khuman  Singh  and  Guman 
Singh  of  Charkharl,  and  on  the  same  site  All  Bahadur  of  Banda 
afterwards  erected  a  stone  fort.  The  town  contains  a  tahsili,  and 
is  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about 
Rs.  1,100.  The  silver  ware  produced  here  in  small  quantities  has 
some  merit.  There  is  a  branch  of  the  American  Mission,  and  a  middle 
school  with  1 01  pupils. 

Mauganj  Tahsil.  — North-eastern  tahsil  of  Rewah  State,  Central 
India,  lying  between  24°32/  and  240  54'  N.  and  8i°4i'and  820  20'  E., 
north  of  the  Kaimur  range,  with  an  area  of  784  square  miles.  Most  of 
the  tahsil  is  part  of  the  alluvial  plain  on  which  the  town  of  Rewah 
stands,  and  is  covered  with  fertile  soil.  To  the  north  it  is  traversed 
by  the  easternmost  section  of  the  Panna  range,  known  locally  as  the 
Binjh  hills.  The  population  fell  from  123,486  in  1891  to  99,534  in 
1 90 1,  giving  a  density  of  127  persons  per  square  mile.  There  are  609 
villages,  the  head-quarters  being  at  Mauganj.  The  land  revenue  is 
2-1   lakhs. 

Mauganj  Village. — Head-quarters  of  the  tahsil  of  the  same  name 
in  Rewah  State,  Central  India,  situated  in  240  40'  N.  and  8i°  52'  E. 
Population  (1901),  1,804.  The  village  is  composed  of  the  two  separate 
hamlets  called  Mau  and  Ganj.  It  stands  on  the  great  Deccan  road, 
40  miles  to  the  east  of  Rewah  town,  61  from  Mirzapur,  and  80  from 
Satna.  An  inspection  bungalow,  a  school,  and  a  British  post  office  are 
situated  at  Mauganj. 

Maulavibazar.  —  Head-quarters  of  the  South  Sylhet  Subdivision, 
Sylhet  District,  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam.     See  Sylhet,  South. 


MAU-RANIPUR  233 

Maulmain. — Town    in    Amherst     District,    Lower    Burma.       See 

MOULMEIN. 

Maungdaw. — Westernmost  township  of  Akyab  District,  Lower 
Burma,  lying  between  200  18'  and  210  27'  N.  and  920  n'  and  920 
43'  E.,  with  an  area  of  426  square  miles.  It  consists  of  a  strip  of  coast 
land  on  the  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  abutting  on  the  southern  end 
of  the  Chittagong  District  of  Bengal.  The  population  was  65,407 
in  1 89 1  and  83,247  in  1901,  giving  a  density  of  195  persons  per 
square  mile.  There  are  377  villages.  It  is  a  favourite  resort  for 
immigrants  from  Chittagong,  and  about  three-fourths  of  its  inhabitants 
profess  the  Musalman  faith.  This  foreign  element  has  caused  the 
population  of  the  township  to  increase  during  the  last  decade  27 
per  cent.  The  head-quarters  are  at  Maungdaw  (population,  1,735), 
on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Naaf  estuary,  which  separates  Burma 
from  Bengal.  Away  from  the  coast  the  land  is  hilly.  The  area 
cultivated  in  1903-4  was  128  square  miles,  paying  Rs.  1,80,000  land 
revenue. 

Mau-Rampur. — Head-quarters  of  the  Mau  tahsil  of  Jhansi  Dis- 
trict, United  Provinces,  situated  in  25°  15'  N.  and  790  9'  E.,  on  a 
branch  of  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway.  Population  (1901), 
17,231.  The  municipality  includes  two  towns,  Mau  and  Ranipur, 
separated  by  a  distance  of  about  four  miles.  Mau  was  a  small 
agricultural  village  till  the  latter  part  of  the  eighteenth  century,  when 
the  exorbitant  demands  of  the  Raja  of  the  neighbouring  State  of 
Chhatarpur  led  to  an  exodus  of  merchants  and  others  who  settled 
here.     The  place  became  noted  for  its  manufacture  of  the  coarse  red 

_  4  ... 

cotton  cloth  known  as  kharua.  It  was  for  long  the  chief  town  in  the 
District,  but  the  restoration  of  Jhansi  city  to  the  British  and  the 
alteration  in  trade  routes  made  by  railways  have  increased  the  impor- 
tance of  the  latter  place.  Mau  is  also  losing  its  trade  in  kharua,  as 
the  vegetable  dye  which  was  used  in  its  preparation  is  giving  way 
to  aniline.  Besides  the  ordinary  offices  Mau  contains  a  dispensary. 
It  is  a  remarkably  picturesque  town  ;  its  houses  are  built  with  deep 
eaves  between  the  first  and  second  storeys,  and  hanging  balcony 
windows  of  unusual  beauty.  The  principal  temple  is  that  of  the  Jains 
(who  form  an  important  commercial  body),  which  is  very  little  enclosed, 
and  presents  a  fine  appearance  with  its  two  solid  spires  and  many 
cupolas.  Mau  has  been  a  municipality  since  1869.  During  the  ten 
years  ending  1901  the  income  and  expenditure  averaged  Rs.  16,000. 
In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  21,000,  chiefly  from  octroi  (Rs.  15,000) ; 
and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  18,000.  As  stated  above,  the  trade  in 
cloth  is  decreasing,  but  agricultural  produce  is  still  largely  exported. 
There  is  a  small  manufacture  of  brass,  and  an  important  cattle  fair  is 
held  here.     Six  schools  have  about  209  pupils. 


234  MAURAWAN 

Maura  wan. —Town  in  the  Purwa  tahsil  of  Unao  District,  United 
Provinces,  situated  in  260  26'  N.  and  8o°  53'  E.,  on  the  road  from 
Unao  town  to  Rae  Barell.  Population  (1901),  7,911.  The  place  first 
became  of  importance  early  in  the  nineteenth  century  as  the  resi- 
dence of  a  Khattri  banker,  who  gradually  acquired  a  large  tahika. 
During  the  Mutiny  the  talukddr,  Gauri  Shankar,  behaved  with 
unshaken  loyalty  and  was  one  of  the  five  talukdars  whose  estates 
were  exempted  from  confiscation.  He  was  rewarded  with  the  title  of 
Raja,  and  a  permanent  settlement  at  a  reduced  revenue.  Maurawan 
contains  a  dispensary  and  three  schools  with  150  pupils,  one  school 
being  maintained  by  the  talukddr.  There  is  little  trade,  but  the 
jewellery  and  carpentry  produced  here  have  some  reputation. 

Maval. — Taluka  of  Poona  District,  Bombay,  lying  between  180  36' 
and  180  59'  N.  and  730  20'  and  730  46'  E.,  with  an  area  of  385  square 
miles.  It  contains  two  towns,  LonaulI  (population,  6,686)  and 
Talegaon-Dabhade  (5,238);  and  162  villages.  The  population  in 
1901  was  65,176,  ^compared  with  66,876  in  1891.  The  density, 
169  persons  per  square  mile,  is  below  the  District  average.  The 
demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  1-2  lakhs,  and  for  cesses 
Rs.  8,000.  Three  leading  spurs  from  the  Western  Ghats  cross  the 
taluka.  The  largest  passes  east  and  west  across  its  whole  length  in 
the  south,  a  second  penetrates  to  the  centre,  and  the  third  forms  the 
norlh-east  boundary  for  about  20  miles.  Maval  is  fairly  wooded. 
The  principal  soils  are  red  and  grey ;  black  soil  is  found  only  on  the 
banks  of  rivers  and  large  streams,  of  which  the  chief  are  the  Indra- 
yani  and  Andhra.  Rice  is  everywhere  the  principal  crop.  The  rainfall 
varies  greatly  in  different  parts.  It  is  heavy  close  to  the  Ghats  and 
considerably  lighter  near  the  eastern  boundary.  Hot  winds  are  almost 
unknown,  and  the  climate  is  generally  cooler  than  in  the  east  of  the 
District.  The  south-east  line  of  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway 
and  the  Bombay  road  both  cross  the  taluka.  The  villages,  along  or 
at  short  distance  from  the  road,  derive  considerable  advantage  from  the 
sale  of  grass  for  the  numerous  droves  of  cart-  and  pack-bullocks  that 
daily  halt  at  the  different  stages.  The  head-quarters  are  at  Wadgaon, 
a  small  village  near  the  station  of  the  same  name  on  the  Great  Indian 
Peninsula  Railway. 

Maw  (Burmese,  Baw). — The  northernmost  and  second  largest  of 
the  States  of  the  Myelat  division  of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma, 
lying  between  210  11'  and  210  43'  N.  and  960  19' and  960  50'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  550  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Veyaman  tract  of  the  Kyaukse  District  of  Upper  Burma  ;  on  the  east 
by  Lawksawk ;  on  the  south  by  Yengan ;  and  on  the  west  by  Kyaukse 
District.  The  State  falls  into  two  natural  divisions :  the  valley  of  the 
Zawgyi,  its  only  important  waterway,  with  the  hills  to  the  north  of  that 


MA  WAX  A    TOWN  235 

stream  ;  and  the  Myelat  plateau  to  the  south.  On  the  north,  east,  and 
west  the  State  is  bounded  by  mountain  ranges,  with  peaks  exceeding 
5,000  feet  in  height.  Rice,  the  chief  crop,  is  grown  in  taungyas  and  on 
irrigated  land  in  the  Zawgyi  valley ;  garden  crops  and  thanatpet  are 
also  cultivated,  but  the  total  area  under  cultivation  is  not  much  more 
than  2,300  acres.  The  population  in  1901  was  7,743  (distributed  in 
70  villages),  of  whom  6,884  were  Burmese-speaking  Danus,  the  rest 
Shans,  Taungthus,  and  Palaungs.  The  principal  village,  where  the 
Ngwegunhmu  resides,  is  Myogyi  (population,  1,002),  close  to  the 
borders  of  Kyaukse.  The  revenue  in  1904-5  amounted  to  Rs.  11,000, 
and  the  tribute  to  the  British  Government  is  Rs.  5,750. 

Mawa. — Petty  State  in  Kathiawar,  Bombay. 

Mawana  Tahsil. — North-eastern  tahsil  of  Meerut  District,  United 
Provinces,  comprising  the  parganas  of  Hastinapur  and  Kithor,  and  lying 
between  280  50'  and  290  16'  N.  and  770  47'  and  780  8'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  431  square  miles.  The  population  rose  from  177,868  in  1891  to 
200,399  in  1901.  There  are  248  villages  and  four  towns,  the  largest 
of  which  are  Mawana  (population,  9,207),  the  tahsil  head-quarters, 
ParIchhatgarh  (6,278),  and  Phalauda  (5,214).  In  1903-4  the 
demand  for  land  revenue  was  Rs.  3,56,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  57,000. 
The  tahsil  is  the  most  sparsely  populated  in  the  District,  containing 
only  465  persons  per  square  mile  against  an  average  of  654.  It  con- 
sists of  two  distinct  portions.  The  greater  part  lies  in  the  upland  area, 
which  descends  by  a  series  of  ravines  to  the  Ganges  khadar  on  the 
east.  The  uplands  are  intersected  by  well-marked  ridges  of  sand,  and 
have  profited  enormously  by  the  irrigation  supplied  from  the  Anupshahr 
branch  of  the  Upper  Ganges  Canal,  as  wells  are  difficult  and  costly  to 
make.  The  khadar  is  damp,  and  immediately  below  the  edge  of  the 
upland  lies  a  series  of  swamps  marking  an  old  bed  of  the  Ganges, 
which  now  flows  on  the  eastern  boundary  ;  a  great  part  of  it  is  fit  only 
for  grazing.  In  1903-4  the  area  under  cultivation  was  273  square 
miles,  of  which  89  were  irrigated. 

Mawana  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  tahsil  of  the  same  name  in 
Meerut  District,  United  Provinces,  situated  in  290  6'  N.  and  770  57'  E., 
17  miles  north-east  of  Meerut  city.  Population  (1901),  9,207.  The 
town,  according  to  tradition,  was  founded  by  Mana,  a  huntsman 
employed  by  the  Kauravas.  It  contains  a  large  brick-built  tank,  and 
on  the  banks  of  another,  now  ruined,  stands  a  fine  temple  built  in  the 
sixteenth  century.  The  municipality  was  constituted  in  1886.  During 
the  ten  years  ending  1901  the  income  and  expenditure  averaged 
Rs.  5,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  7,000,  chiefly  from  a  tax 
on  circumstances  and  property  (Rs.  3,000) ;  and  the  expenditure  was 
Rs.  8,000.  There  is  little  trade,  and  most  of  the  inhabitants  are 
cultivators.     The  town  contains  two  middle  schools  with  r36  pupils. 

VOL.  XVII.  Q 


236  MA  WAN  A    TOWN 

besides  six  primary  schools  with  164  pupils.     The  American  Methodist 
Mission  has  a  branch  here. 

Mawkmai  (Burmese,  Mauktne). — State  in  the  extreme  south  of 
the  eastern  division  of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  astride 
the  Salween  river,  between  190  35'  and  200  26'  N.  and  970  25'  and 
980  32'  E.,  with  an  area  (including  the  trans-Salween  dependencies 
of  Mongmaii  and  Mehsakun)  of  2,787  square  miles.  The  State  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Mongsit  and  Mongnai :  on  the  east  by 
Mongpan  and  its  trans-Salween  dependencies,  which  lie  between  it 
and  Siam  ;  on  the  south  by  Siam  and  Karenni ;  and  on  the  west  by 
Hsahtung.  The  central  portion  of  the  State  proper  is  a  wide  fertile 
rice  plain,  to  the  east  of  which  are  hills  extending  to  the  cultivated 
Nam  Teng  valley.  The  lower  part  of  this  valley  is  chiefly  given  up  to 
rice  cultivation,  and  the  upper  part  to  tobacco,  though  considerable 
quantities  of  sesamum  and  sugar-cane  are  grown  as  well.  Over  the 
east  of  the  State  taungya  (shifting)  cultivation  prevails.  A  large  area 
is  covered  with  forests,  which  in  1904  gave  a  revenue  of  Rs.  18,500. 
The  Mehsakun  dependency  across  the  Salween  is  comprised  in  the 
basin  of  the  Nam  Hsakun,  and  is  inhabited  by  Shans.  West  of  it  is 
the  Mongmaii  dependency,  a  mountainous  tract  only  the  south-eastern 
corner  of  which  has  any  population.  The  title  to  these  two  dependen- 
cies was  finally  affirmed  by  the  Anglo-Siamese  Boundary  Commission 
of  1892-3.  The  total  population  in  1901  was  29,454,  distributed  in 
443  villages.  About  23,000  were  Shans,  about  5,000  Taungthus,  and 
the  remainder  Karens  and  other  tribes.  The  head-quarters  of  the 
Sawbwa  are  at  Mawkmai  (population,  1,375),  on  tne  Nam  Nyim, 
a  tributary  of  the  Nam  Teng.  The  revenue  in  1903-4  amounted  to 
Rs.  42,000  (mainly  from  thaihameda)  ;  the  chief  items  of  expenditure 
were  Rs.  18,000  tribute  to  the  British  Government,  Rs.  10,000  officials' 
salaries  and  general  administration  charges,  Rs.  9,700  privy  purse,  and 
Rs.  4,000  public  works. 

Mawlu. — Northern  township  of  Katha  District,  Upper  Burma,  lying 
between  240  18'  and  250  7'  N.  and  950  50'  and  960  36'  E.,  on  both 
sides  of  the  Sagaing-Myitkyina.  railway,  with  an  area  of  1,344  square 
miles.  The  population  was  6,206  in  1891,  and  17,178  in  1901,  dis- 
tributed in  281  villages.  The  head-quarters  are  at  Mawlu  (population, 
581),  on  the  railway.  The  township  is  situated  in  the  Meza  and  upper 
Namyin  (or  Mohnyin)  valleys,  and  is  separated  from  Katha  by  the 
Gangaw  range,  on  which  the  Kachin  population  lives.  The  rapid 
increase  of  population  and  cultivation  apparent  since  1891  is  due  to 
the  railway,  which  has  brought  in  a  large  number  of  immigrants.  The 
township  contained  18  square  miles  under  cultivation  in  1903-4,  and 
the  land  revenue  and  ihathameda  amounted  to  Rs.  46,400. 

Mawnang  (Burmese,  Bawnin). — Small  State  in  the  Myelat  divi- 


MAYAVARAM  TOWN  237 

sion  of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  between  20°  38'  and 
200  44/  N.  and  960  44/  and  960  51'  E.,  with  an  area  of  40  square  miles. 
It  borders  on  Hsamonghkam  on  the  west,  and  on  the  other  sides  on 
Yawnghwe.  Rice  is  grown  in  the  swampy  ground  in  the  north,  but 
the  rest  of  the  State  is  rather  arid,  and  the  total  cultivated  area  is  only 
about  700  acres.  The  population  in  1901  was  3,755  (distributed  in 
43  villages),  of  whom  more  than  2,000  were  Taungyos,  and  the  rest 
Taungthus,  Shans,  and  Burmese-Shans.  The  residence  of  the  Myoza 
is  at  Mawnang  (population,  198),  a  little  south  of  the  Thazi-Fort  Sted- 
man  road.  The  revenue  in  1904-5  amounted  to  Rs.  3,900,  and  the 
tribute  to  the  British  Government  is  Rs.  2,000. 

Mawson  (Burmese,  Bawzaing). — Small  State  in  the  Myelat  divi- 
sion of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  between  200  52'  and 
210  3'  N.  and  960  43'  and  960  50'  E.,  with  an  area  of  40  square 
miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Lawksawk  ;  on  the  east  by 
Yawnghwe  ;  on  the  south  by  Poila ;  and  on  the  west  by  Pangtara.  The 
country  consists  of  open  rolling  downs,  like  the  greater  part  of  the 
Myelat.  The  population  in  1901  was  3,557  (distributed  in  31  villages), 
of  whom  about  1,500  were  Danus,  1,300  Taungthus,  and  the  rest 
Taungyos.  The  residence  of  the  Ngwegunhmu  is  at  Mawson  (popu- 
lation, 203),  in  the  south  of  the  State.  The  revenue  in  1904-5 
amounted  to  Rs.  2,900,  and  the  tribute  to  the  British  Government  is 
Rs.  1,500. 

Mayavaram  Subdivision.  —  Subdivision  of  Tanjore  District, 
Madras,  consisting  of  the  taluks  of  Mayavaram  and  Shiyali. 

Mayavaram  Taluk. — Coast  taluk  in  the  north-east  of  Tanjore 
District,  Madras,  lying  between  io°  58'  and  n°  15'  N.  and  790  31' 
and  790  52'  E.,  with  an  area  of  283  square  miles.  The  population  in 
1901  was  247,019,  compared  with  244,835  in  1891.  In  density  it 
stands  sixth  of  all  the  taluks  in  the  Presidency,  this  being  due  to  its 
great  agricultural  advantages.  It  is  situated  wholly  in  the  delta  of  the 
Cauvery  river,  and  more  than  99  per  cent,  of  the  arable  land  is  under 
occupation.  Moreover,  as  it  lies  near  the  sea,  it  receives  as  much  as 
from  50  to  53  inches  of  rain.  Most  of  the  land  is  irrigated,  and  on 
this  rice  is  usually  grown,  though  ground-nuts  and  gingelly  are  also 
raised  in  fair  quantities.  Mayavaram  Town,  which  is  the  head-quarters 
of  the  taluk,  is  a  municipality  with  a  population  of  24,276.  The  old 
Danish  settlement  of  Tranquebar,  which  lies  18  miles  south-east  and 
is  now  a  declining  port,  has  a  population  (inclusive  of  its  suburb 
Poraiyar)  of  13,142.  Besides  these  two  towns,  there  are  186  villages 
in  the  taluk.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  Rs.  8,88,000. 

Mayavaram  Town  (Mayuram). — Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of 
the  same  name  and  the  station  of  a  Deputy-Collector,  Tanjore  District, 

q  2 


238  MAY  AVAR  AM   TOWN 

Madras,  situated  in  n°  6'  N.  and  790  39'  E.,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Cauvery,  and  at  the  junction  of  the  South  Indian  Railway  main  line 
with  the  District  board  railway.  Population  (1901),  24,276.  The  town 
is  held  particularly  sacred  by  Hindus.  During  the  Tula  Cauvery 
festival  (October  and  November)  pilgrims  gather  from  all  parts  of  the 
Presidency  to  bathe  in  the  holy  river  simultaneously  with  the  idol  of 
the  local  shrine.  A  large  Vishnu  temple  stands  on  the  northern  bank 
of  the  Cauvery  in  Tiruvilandur.  The  principal  shrine,  dedicated  to 
Mayuranathaswami,  is  a  mile  to  the  south  of  the  river.  Here  Parvati 
is  said  to  have  worshipped  Siva  in  the  form  of  a  peacock  (mayfini),  and 
the  name  of  the  town  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived  from  this 
incident.  Kornad,  a  suburb  of  Mayavaram,  has  long  been  famous  as 
a  weaving  centre.  The  cloths  woven  here  are  worn  by  women  of  the 
higher  classes  throughout  India.  They  are  made  of  a  mixture  of  silk 
and  cotton  thread,  and  are  dyed  in  durable  dark  blue,  red,  and  other 
colours.  The  industry  is  not  prosperous,  owing  to  the  inability  of  the 
vegetable  dyes  used  to  hold  their  own  against  imported  mineral  dyes ; 
and  with  its  decline  Mayavaram  is  tending  to  become  a  mere  market 
for  agricultural  produce.  The  town  was  constituted  a  municipality  in 
1866.  The  receipts  and  expenditure  during  the  ten  years  ending 
1902-3  averaged  Rs.  39,000.  In  1903-4  the  income,  most  of  which 
was  derived  from  school  fees  and  house  and  land  taxes,  was  Rs.  43,200; 
and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  42,300.  The  municipal  high  school  is 
a  flourishing  institution,  and  the  fees  derived  from  it  now  amount  to 
more  than  a  third  of  the  total  income  of  the  municipality.  Sanitation 
is  hindered  by  the  fact  that  the  place  lies  low  and  has  no  proper 
drainage. 

Maymyo  Subdivision. — South-eastern  subdivision  of  Mandalay 
District,  Upper  Burma,  containing  the  Pyintha,  Maymyo,  and  Wetwin 
townships. 

Maymyo  Township. — Hill  township  of  Mandalay  District,  Upper 
Burma,  lying  between  210  48'  and  220  6'  N.  [and  960  24'  and 
960  46'  E.,  with  an  area  of  396  square  miles,  composed  almost  entirely 
of  stretches  of  undulating  scrub-covered  upland.  The  population  was 
7.993  in  1891,  and  13,730  in  1901,  distributed  in  101  villages  and  one 
town,  Maymyo  (population,  6,223),  tne  head-quarters.  The  inhabitants 
are  mostly  Danus.  The  thathameda  collections  in  1903-4  amounted 
to  Rs.  30,000. 

Maymyo  Town. — Principal  hill  station  of  Burma,  in  Mandalay 
District,  situated  in  220  1'  N.  and  960  28"  E.,  on  the  Mandalay-Lashio 
railway,  at  an  elevation  of  3,500  feet,  and  422  miles  by  rail  from 
Rangoon.  The  station  occupies  an  undulating  plateau,  surrounded  by 
hills  covered  with  thin  oak  forest  and  bracken,  and  enjoys  a  temperate 
and,  on  the  whole,  a  salubrious  climate.     The  clearing  of  the  jungle  in 


MAYMYO    TOWN  239 

the  immediate  neighbourhood,  and  the  draining  of  the  swamps  which 
used  to  occupy  its  low-lying  areas,  have  made  Maymyo  much  healthier 
than  it  was  when  first  occupied  ;   but  even   now  it  is  not  free  from 
sickness   at  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  rains.       As  regards  tern 
perature,  the  average  maxima  in  May,  July,  and  December  are  86° 
770,  and   670,  and  occasionally  the  thermometer   reaches   90°.     The 
average  minima   during   the    three    months    mentioned   are  66°,  66°, 
and  3&0,  but  as  much  as   six  degrees  of  frost  has  been  recorded  in 
the  winter.     The  rainfall  is  comparatively  light  for  a  hill  station.    It 
averages  58   inches  per  annum,  and  is  heaviest  in  May,  June,  Sep- 
tember, and  October. 

Maymyo  (formerly  Pyinulwin)  was  the  seat  of  a  ne-ok  (practically 
a  township  officer)  under  the  government  of  Ava,  and  after  its  occu- 
pation by  British  troops  in  1886  frequent  operations  were  necessary  to 
pacify  the  surrounding  country,  the  last  being  in  1890.  Since  that 
date  the  town  has  prospered,  the  population  in  1901  being  6,223 
(including  2,016  Hindus  and  821  Musalmans),  compared  with  1,665 
in  1891.  The  rapid  extension  of  the  station  has  attracted  many  China- 
men and  natives  of  India,  the  former  chiefly  as  carpenters  and  masons, 
the  latter  as  general  traders  and  coolies.  There  are  now  23  miles  of 
metalled  roads,  including  a  portion  of  the  main  road  from  Mandalay 
to  Lashio  which  passes  through  the  town,  and  a  large  number  of 
buildings,  public  and  private,  all  the  more  pretentious  of  which  are 
of  brick.  The  latter  include  a  residence  for  the  Lieutenant-Governor, 
a  circuit-house,  the  Secretariat,  and  several  dak  and  inspection  bunga- 
lows, besides  offices  for  the  subdivisional  officer  and  the  various  officials 
of  the  Public  Works  and  Forest  departments  who  have  their  permanent 
head-quarters  at  Maymyo.  Maymyo  is  now  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Lieutenant-General  commanding  the  Burma  division.  The  canton- 
ment extends  on  both  sides  of  the  railway,  partly  on  the  high  ground 
at  the  foot  of  the  hills  lying  west  of  the  town,  where  quarters  are  to 
be  built  for  a  British  regiment.  The  permanent  garrison  consists  of 
a  Gurkha  battalion. 

The  affairs  of  the  town  are  administered  by  a  committee,  the  income 
of  which  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  83,000,  devoted  largely  to  conservancy. 
The  cantonment  fund  had  an  income  of  Rs.  5,000  in  the  same  year. 
A  trade  registration  station  is  situated  on  the  Mandalay-Lashio  road  to 
the  east  of  the  town.  A  reservoir  in  the  hills  to  the  west  was  completed 
in  1902,  and  the  town  is  now  supplied  with  excellent  water.  An 
additional  reservoir  is  being  constructed.  When  it  is  finished,  the 
reserve  water-supply  will  exceed  20  million  gallons.  Educational  insti- 
tutions include  a  Government  high  school,  a  girls'  school  supported  by 
the  Church  of  England,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  school.  The  civil 
hospital,  a  collection  of  brick  buildings  built  in  1903-4,  has  accommo- 


246  MAYMYO    TOWN 

elation  for  20  in-patients.  Near  the  hospital  is  the  bazar,  where  a 
market  is  held  once  every  five  days. 

Mayni. — Town a  in  the  Khatao  taluka  of  Satara  District,  Bombay, 
situated  in  17°  26'  N.  and  740  35'  E.,  40  miles  south-east  of  Satara 
town.  Population  (1901),  5,312  (including  1,622  persons  returned 
in  a  famine  relief  camp).  The  municipality,  which  was  established  in 
1867,  had  an  income  during  the  decade  ending  1901  averaging 
Rs.  1,400.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  1,650.  The  small  stream 
on  which  Mayni  stands  has  been  dammed  about  a  mile  to  the  east, 
to  increase  the  water-supply  of  the  inhabitants  as  well  as  for  irriga- 
tion purposes. 

Mayo  Mine. — Salt  mine  in  the  Pind  Dadan  Khan  tahsiloi  Jhelum 
District,  Punjab,  situated  in  320  39'  N.  and  730  3'  E.  The  mine  lies 
in  the  Salt  Range  at  the  village  of  Khewra,  5^  miles  north-east  of  the 
town  of  Pind  Dadan  Khan  ;  and  the  mineral  occurs  in  vast  quantities, 
the  deposits  extending  towards  the  summit  of  the  hill  above  the  village 
(1,650  feet  above  sea-level)  and  going  down  to  a  great  depth  below  the 
present  floor-level  of  the  mine.  When  the  salt  was  first  worked  is  not 
known  ;  but  excavations  existed  on  the  spot  as  far  back  as  the  time 
of  Akbar,  and  the  miners  have  a  tradition  that  their  first  settlement 
dates  from  the  sixth  century  of  the  Muhammadan  era.  The  existing 
mine  was  named  after  Lord  Mayo  in  1870.  Under  Sikh  rule  several 
mines  were  working  in  the  hill ;  but  the  excavations  were  not  made 
with  any  regard  to  economy  or  safety,  and  in  consequence  they  have 
all  either  fallen  in  or  are  in  danger  of  so  doing.  In  1869-70  a  qualified 
mining  engineer  was  appointed  and  a  scientific  system  of  working  was 
introduced. 

It  is  estimated  that  534,512  tons  had  been  excavated  up  to  1850,  and 
from  that  year  to  the  end  of  March,  1904,  the  out-turn  was  2,572,705 
tons.  It  is  calculated  that  a  further  supply  of  8^  million  tons  is  easily 
accessible  in  the  part  of  the  hill  which  has  been  explored,  and  that 
large  quantities  exist  in  its  unexplored  parts  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
existing  mine.  The  mine  has  a  maximum  length  of  1,405  feet,  and  is 
2,691  feet  broad  at  its  widest  part. 

A  bridge  across  the  Khewra  gorge  carries  a  tramway  by  which  the 
salt  is  conveyed  to  the  depot  from  which  it  is  issued.  This  bridge  is 
929  feet  above  sea-level,  and  as  the  mine  is  higher  than  the  bridge,  the 
working  is  greatly  facilitated.  Ample  space  for  extension  exists  on 
the  north,  south,  and  east,  but  on  the  west  the  gorge  precludes 
tunnelling  without  going  much  deeper  than  the  existing  floor.  West 
of  the  gorge,  however,  stands  a  hill  with  four  times  the  mass  of  the 
mine  hill,  and  undoubtedly,  containing  rich  deposits  as  yet  untouched. 

In  1903-4  the  mine  gave  daily  employment  to  1,205  persons,  chiefly 
:  Mayni  was  not  treated  as  a  town  at  the  Census  of  iyoi. 


MAYURBHANJ  241 

belonging  to  the  mining  community,  whose  occupation  is  hereditary. 
They  work  in  family  parties,  the  women  and  children  over  twelve  years 
of  age  assisting  in  the  carriage  of  the  salt  from  the  excavations  to  the 
loading  stations.  A  few  outsiders  are  employed  as  porters  and  in 
loading  or  moving  the  trucks.  The  miners  receive  10^  pies  per  cubic 
foot  of  space  excavated,  the  payment  covering  the  stacking  of  salt  at 
the  loading  stations  on  the  tramway.  Government  paid  1-4  lakhs  in 
wages  during  1903-4  for  the  mining  and  issuing  of  salt  at  Khewra  and 
the  special  work  connected  therewith.  For  mining  purposes  the  hill  is 
divided  into  parallel  blocks  not  exceeding  45  feet  in  width  and  running 
in  the  direction  of  the  prevailing  dip  of  the  salt  strata,  alternating  with 
similar  blocks  not  less  than  25  feet  wide,  in  which  no  excavation  is 
permitted  except  for  tunnels,  travelling  ways,  and  loading  stations  for 
the  tramways.  These  blocks,  or  pillars,  which  support  the  mine  roof, 
are  now  generally  30  feet  thick,  and  they  are  further  strengthened  by 
beds  of  marl  which  lie  between  the  salt  seams,  and  which  are  not 
removed  when  the  salt  is  being  excavated.  The  marl  is  impure  salt, 
lying  in  beds  of  varying  thickness  between  the  seams  of  salt  and 
thinning  out  as  it  dips  down  in  the  hill  until  eventually  its  place  is 
taken  by  salt.  Three  tramways  run  through  the  mine,  two  of  them 
being  connected  by  a  self-acting  incline  on  which  the  loaded  trucks 
draw  the  empty  trucks  up.  The  whole  of  the  salt  is  carried  to  the 
depot  outside  the  gorge  in  trucks  which  run  by  gravitation,  but  are 
hauled  back  empty  by  mules  and  ponies  or  are  pushed  back  by  men. 
The  mine  is  intersected  with  tunnels  which  serve  for  ventilation  as  well 
as  travelling  ways.  Rain-water  is  kept  out  by  a  network  of  drains 
at  the  surface,  and  most  of  the  little  water  that  percolates  into  the 
mine  is  caught  up  inside  in  masonry  drains  and  flows  out.  In  1903-4 
the  Mayo  Mine  supplied  2,264,187  maunds,  or  87-6  per  cent,  of  the 
salt  issued  from  the  Cis-Indus  and  Kalabagh  Mines  division.  Of  this, 
98-8  per  cent,  was  removed  by  the  North-Western  Railway,  which  runs 
to  the  salt  depot  at  Warthganj  at  the  mouth  of  the  Khewra  gorge,  for 
distribution  over  the  Punjab  (including  Kashmir  and  other  Native 
States),  the  United  Provinces  of  Agra  and  Oudh,  Bihar  and  (in  small 
quantities)  Lower  Bengal,  Sind,  Baluchistan,  and  the  Central  Provinces. 
The  revenue  (duty)  realized  from  the  sale  of  Mayo  Mine  salt  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  46-9  lahhs. 

Mayurbhanj. — The  most  northerly  of  the  Tributary  States  of 
Orissa,  Bengal,  lying  between  210  17'  and  220  34'  X.  and  850  40' 
and  870  10'  E.  It  is  by  far  the  largest  of  the  Orissa  States,  and  has 
an  area  of  4,243  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Districts  of  Singhbhum  and  Midnapore  :  on  the  east  by  Midnapore 
and  Balasore  :  on  the  south  by  Balasore  and  the  Xilgiri  State  :  and  on 
the  west  by  Keonjhar. 


242  MAYURBHANJ 

Mayurbhanj  presents  every  variety  of  soil  and  scenery.  A  block 
of  hills  occupies  an  area  of  about  1,000  square  miles  in  the  centre 
of  the  State,  and  abounds  in  rich  valleys  and  dense  timber  forests. 
This  region  is  almost  unexplored  at  present,  but  efforts  are  being 
made  to  open  it  out  by  roads.  In  the  south  the  MeghasanI  hill 
attains  a  height  of  3,824  feet  above  the  sea.  Large  herds  of 
elephants  roam  through  the  mountains  and  forests,  and  successful 
khedda  operations  are  carried  on  from  time  to  time. 

It  is  related  in  native  chronicles  that  the  principality  of  Mayurbhanj 
was  founded  about  1,300  years  ago  by  a  relative  of  the  Raja,  of  Jaipur 
in  Raj pu tana.  The  family  title  is  Bhanja  ('breaker'),  which,  it  is  said, 
was  assumed  after  the  overthrow  of  a  chieftain  named  Mayuradhwaj, 
an  event  which  is  also  believed  to  account  for  the  present  name  of  the 
State.  The  chief's  emblem  is  a  peafowl  {tnayiir),  and  there  is  another 
tradition  which  alleges  that  his  family  originally  sprang  from  a  pea- 
fowl's eyes ;  the  killing  of  this  heraldic  bird  is  strictly  prohibited 
throughout  the  State.  The  remains  of  ruined  temples,  tanks,  &c,  at 
Khiching,  near  Udaipur,  indicate  a  condition  of  considerable  pros- 
perity in  the  past.  The  State  came  under  British  control  with  the 
conquest  of  Orissa  in  1803,  prior  to  which  it  had  been  feudatory  to 
the  Marathas ;  and  in  1829  a  treaty  engagement  was  entered  into 
between  the  British  and  the  Raja. 

The  enumerated  population  rose  from  258,680  in  1872  to  385,737 
in  1881,  to  532,238  in  1891,  and  to  610,383  in  1901.  A  great  deal 
of  this  remarkable  increase  must  be  ascribed  to  the  defective  character 
of  the  earlier  enumerations.  In  the  last  decade  the  growth  amounted 
to  14-7  per  cent.,  and  in  1901  the  density  was  144  persons  per 
square  mile.  The  climate  is  on  the  whole  fairly  healthy,  except  in 
the  hills  and  jungle  tracts,  which  are  very  malarious.  The  inhabitants 
are  contained  in  one  town,  Baripada  (population,  5,613),  and  3,593 
villages,  of  which  the  most  important  are  Bahalda  and  Karanjia,  the 
head-quarters  of  the  Ba.mangha.ti  and  Panchplr  subdivisions.  Hindus 
number  507,738,  Animists  98,485,  and  Muhammadans  3,785.  The 
majority  of  the  people  are  of  aboriginal  origin  ;  the  most  numerous 
castes  are  Santals  (185,000),  Hos  (68,000),  Bhumijs  (56,000),  Kurmis 
(36,000),  Bhuiyas  (32,000),  Gaurs  and  Bathudis  (30,000  each),  Pans 
(25,000),  and  Khandaits  (15,000).  A  Baptist  mission  is  at  work  at 
Baripada  and  a  Roman  Catholic  mission  at  Nangalkata,  8  miles  from 
Baripada  on  the  Balasore  road. 

The  people  are  almost  entirely  agricultural  and  lead  an  uneventful 
and  contented  life,  so  long  as  the  harvests  are  good.  About  one-third 
of  the  State  is  under  cultivation,  and  the  remainder  is  either  forest  or 
waste.  There  is  ample  room  for  the  extension  of  tillage,  and  large 
tracts  are  reclaimed  each  year  under  leases  granted  by  the  State.     Rice 


MAYURBHANJ  243 

is  the  staple  crop  ;  rabi  crops  and  peas  and  pulses  are  cultivated  along 
the  river  banks,  and  sugar-cane  and  tobacco  are  also  grown.  Experi- 
ments are  being  made  in  the  growth  of  long-stapled  cotton.  Forest 
conservancy  now  forms  an  important  branch  of  the  administration, 
but  the  forests  are  suffering  severely  from  the  ruthless  destruction  of 
former  times. 

A  geological  survey  of  the  Slate  was  recently  undertaken,  and  it  is 
reported  that  its  iron  ores  are  possibly  the  richest  and  most  extensive 
in  India.  They  occur  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  but  especially  in 
Bamanghati,  where  there  are  a  considerable  number  of  smelters  working 
with  crude  apparatus.  It  is  proposed  to  construct  a  branch  line  to 
carry  the  ore  to  Sini  on  the  Bengal-Nagpur  Railway,  where  large  iron 
and  steel  works  are  to  be  built.  Limestone  in  the  shape  of  tufa  or 
travertine  is  found  in  several  localities,  also  red  and  yellow  ochres  ; 
and  the  clays  underlying  the  laterite  near  Baripada  constitute  an 
excellent  material  for  pottery.  Gold  is  washed  for  in  the  Subarnarekha 
river  on  the  northern  confines  of  Mayurbhanj  proper,  and  in  the  Kadkai 
and  Bonai  rivers  in  the  Bamanghati  subdivision  :  at  the  head-waters 
of  the  latter  river  there  is  a  tract  of  about  2  square  miles  where  almost 
the  entire  alluvium  is  auriferous,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  low  range 
of  hills  is  another  area  of  placer  deposit  of  similar  extent.  In  these 
two  localities  about  70  families  obtain  a  livelihood  by  gold-washing, 
but  they  only  scrape  the  surface  soil ;  nuggets  weighing  as  much  as 
2  or  3  tolas  are  said  to  be  found  occasionally.  Mica  occurs  extensively 
in  both  the  Mayurbhanj  and  Bamanghati  subdivisions,  but  the  plates 
obtained  are  small ;  and  agate,  flint,  and  jasper  are  found  in  some 
profusion  in  the  latter  subdivision. 

•  The  rearing  of  tasar  cocoons  and  the  cultivation  of  lac  are  exten- 
sively carried  on,  especially  in  Bamanghati.  There  is  a  considerable 
trade  in  forest  produce,  such  as  timber,  lac,  myrabolams,  nux-vomica, 
honey,  resin,  and  fuel.  Horns  and  hides,  rice,  oilseeds,  and  cereals 
are  also  exported. 

A  narrow-gauge  branch  line  connecting  Baripada  town  with  Rupsa 
junction  on  the  Bengal-Nagpur  Railway,  a  distance  of  32  miles,  was 
opened  in  1905.  The  town  is  also  connected  by  metalled  roads  with 
Bahalda  and  Karanjia,  the  head-quarters  of  the  outlying  subdhisions, 
and  with  the  towns  of  Balasore  and  Midnapore ;  and  several  fair- 
weather  roads  lead  from  it  to  other  parts  of  the  State. 

The  head-quarters  are  at  Baripada  Town,  which  contains  the 
residence  of  the  chief  and  the  seat  of  the  administration.  There  are 
two  outlying  subdivisions,  Bamanghati  and  Panchplr,  with  head- 
quarters at  Bahalda  and  Karanjia  respectively. 

The  administration  of  the  State  is  conducted  on  British  lines  under 
the  personal  supervision  of  the  chief,  who  has  been  vested  with  higher 


244  MA  YURBHANJ 

criminal  powers  than  any  of  the  other  tributary  chiefs,  being  em- 
powered to  pass  sentences  of  imprisonment  for  five  years.  He  is 
assisted  by  a  Diwan  and  three  Assistant  Diwans,  and  the  judicial 
officers  include  a  State  Judge,  a  Subordinate  Judge,  and  two  Munsifs  ; 
of  the  latter  the  Subordinate  Judge  and  one  Munsif  have  the  powers 
of  a  magistrate  of  the  first  class,  while  the  other  Munsif  has  second- 
class  powers.  The  subdivisional  officers  are  vested  with  limited 
revenue,  criminal,  and  civil  powers.  The  Educational  department  is 
controlled  by  a  Superintendent,  the  Public  Works  department  by 
a  State  Engineer,  and  the  police  and  jails  by  a  Superintendent ;  the 
'  reserved '  forests  are  under  the  management  of  a  Forest  officer,  while 
the  protected  forests  are  under  the  revenue  authorities.  The  State  has 
a  revenue  of  9^  lakhs,  the  current  land  revenue  demand  being  7  lakhs ; 
and  the  tribute  payable  to  the  British  Government  is  Rs.  1,068. 

The  police  force  consists  of  33  officers  and  201  men,  in  charge  of 
a  European  officer.  A  masonry  jail  has  accommodation  for  89  prisoners. 
Education  has  made  rapid  progress  during  the  last  twenty  years,  and 
in  addition  to  a  high  school  at  Baripada  284  schools  of  all  kinds 
are  scattered  over  the  State.  The  State  contains  six  dispensaries ;  the 
people  are  beginning  to  appreciate  them,  and  the  number  of  patients 
is  gradually  rising. 

Mayureswar.— Village  in  the  Rampur  Hat  subdivision  of  Birbhum 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  230  59'  N.  and  870  46'  E.,  on  the  road 
from  SQri  to  Murshidabad.  Population  (1901),  2,535.  The  inhabitants 
are  principally  engaged  in  rearing  silkworms,  and  in  silk-spinning  and 
weaving. 

Mazalgaon  Taluk.— North-eastern  taluk  of  Bhir  District,  Hyder- 
abad State,  with  an  area  of  775  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901, 
including  jagirs,  was  122,135,  compared  with  132,658  in  1891,  the 
decrease  being  due  to  the  famines  of  1897  and  1899- 1900.  The  taluk 
contains  one  town,  Mazalgaon  (population,  5,698),  the  head-quarters ; 
and  223  villages,  of  which  51  are  jagir.  The  land  revenue  in  1901  was 
3  lakhs.  The  country  is  very  fertile,  being  composed  of  black  cotton 
soil.     The  Godavari  river  flows  through  the  northern  portion. 

Mazalgaon  Town.— Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name 
in  Bhir  District,  Hyderabad  State,  situated  in  190  9'  N.  and  760  13'  E., 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sindphana,  a  tributary  of  the  Godavari. 
Population  (1901),  5,698.  It  is  a  rising  town,  the  principal  trade  being 
in  grain,  while  indigo  was  once  largely  dealt  in. 

Mazar-i- Sharif.— Capital  of  the  province  of  Afghan-Turkistan, 
situated  in  360  43'  N.  and  670  7'  E.,  318  miles  from  Kabul;  1,235  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  place  is  held  sacred  as  the  alleged  burial-place  of 
All,  the  son-in-law  and  cousin  of  Muhammad;  and  a  tomb  consisting 
of  two  lofty  cupolas  was  built  to  him  by  Sultan  All  Mirza  in  the  first 


MEDAK  DISTRICT  245 

half  of  the  fifteenth  century.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  All  was  not  buried 
at  Mazar,  but  at  Najaf,  in  Turkey.  In  the  early  half  of  the  last  century 
Mazar  was  subject  to  Murad  Beg  of  Kunduz.  In  1852  it  was  taken  by 
the  governor  of  Balkh  and  has  since  remained  in  Afghan  hands.  The 
present  prosperity  of  the  town  dates  from  the  time  of  Muhammad 
Alam  Khan,  Amir  Sher  All's  governor.  Since  1869  it  has  become  the 
seat  of  government  of  Afghan-Turkistan  and  a  not  unimportant  com- 
mercial centre.  The  old  portion  of  the  town  is  enclosed  by  a  thin 
wall,  now  in  ruins,  and  is  mainly  occupied  by  the  tomb  and  a  large 
straggling  bazar.  Around  this  the  new  town  has  grown  rapidly,  and 
buildings  and  gardens  have  sprung  up  on  all  sides  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. Mazar  now  resembles  a  mass  of  inhabited  gardens  and  orchards 
rather  than  a  regular  town.  The  population  of  the  town  and  suburbs 
is  about  6,000  families,  mainly  Uzbegs,  but  including  a  few  Hindu 
traders. 

Medak  District. — District  in  the  Medak  Gulshanabad  Division  of 
Hyderabad  State,  lying  between  170  25'  and  180  19'  N.  and  770  48' 
and  78°  31'  E.,  with  a  total  area  of  2,005  square  miles,  including 
856  square  miles  of  jaglr  and  paigah  lands1.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north-east  and  north  by  Karimnagar  and  Nizamabad ;  on  the  east  and 
south  by  the  Atraf-i-balda  District ;  and  on  the  west  by  Bidar  District 
and  paigah  estates.  There  are  numerous  low  hills.  One  range  extends 
from  Ramayampet  in  the  north  to  the  southern 
portion  of  Nizamabad,  and  then  turning  to  the  south  aspects 

again   enters   the    District.     Another  range  extends 
from  the  north-western  corner  to  the  east.     The  fort  of  Medak  stands 
on  the  summit  of  one  of  these  hills  to  the  west  of  the  town. 

The  most  important  river  is  the  Manjra,  which  enters  Medak  from 
Bidar,  and  passes  through  its  western  and  north-western  tdluks,  its  total 
length  in  the  District  being  60  miles.  The  Haldi  or  Paspaver,  a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Manjra,  which  enters  the  District  from  the  north,  flows 
under  Medak  town  ;  its  length  is  only  10  miles. 

The  rock  formation  is  the  Archaean  gneiss. 

The  trees  commonly  found  are  teak,  bijasal  (Pterocarpus  Marsu- 
pium),  nallamaddi  (Terminalia  tomenlosa),  tppa  (Hardzuichia  binata), 
mohwa  (Bassia  latifolia),  mm  [Melia  Azadirachtd),  mango,  tamarind, 
tarvar  (Cassia  auricula /a),  and  various  species  of  Fie  us. 

The  District  contains  large  tracts  of  woody  and  scrubby  jungle, 
where  nilgai,  spotted  deer,  sdmbar,  and  wild  dogs  are  found.  Partridge, 
quail,  duck,  teal,  snipe,  &c,  abound  everywhere. 

The  climate  is  very  healthy  from  September  to  June;  but  during 
the   rainy    season   malarial    fevers    and   agues   prevail,    the    taluks   of 

1  Except  where  otherwise  stated,  the  statistics  in  this  article  relate  to  the  District  as 
it  stood  before  the  changes  of  1905  referred  to  in  the  section  on  Population. 


246 


MEDAK  DISTRICT 


History. 


Ramayampet,  Medak,  and  Baghat  being  especially  liable  to  these 
ailments,  owing  to  the  excessive  humidity  of  the  atmosphere.  The 
temperature  during  the  winter  falls  to  450,  while  in  May  it  rises  to 
100°  The  annual  rainfall  averages  31  inches ;  but  in  1899  the  amount 
received  was  only  17^  inches,  and  in  1902  about  13  inches. 

This  District  formed  part  of  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Warangal.  In 
1309  Ala-ud-din's  general,  Malik  Kaffir,  marched  with  a  large  army 
against  the  Raja  of  Warangal,  and  took  Medak  on 
his  route.  In  the  fourteenth  century  Medak  formed 
part  of  the  Bahmani  kingdom,  and  subsequently  passed  to  the  Kutb 
Shahi  dynasty  of  Golconda.  On  the  fall  of  Golconda,  it  was  annexed 
to  the  Mughal  empire,  from  which  it  was  detached  in  the  early  part  of 
the  eighteenth  century  on  the  foundation  of  the  Hyderabad  State. 

The  District  contains  many  places  of  archaeological  interest.  The 
fort  of  Medak  stands  about  300  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain. 
Patancheru,  16  miles  north-west  of  Hyderabad,  contains  some  old 
Hindu  underground  temples,  where  ancient  coins  have  recently  been 
discovered.  Andol  and  Komatur  have  old  mosques  of  note;  and 
Chatkur,  Kalabgur,  Kandi,  Nandj,  Patancheru,  and  Venkatapur, 
ancient  Hindu  temples.  At  Yedupailu,  south-east  of  Medak,  where 
seven  tributaries  of  the  Manjra  meet,  a  large  religious  fair  is  held 
annually. 

There  are  634  towns  and  villages  in  the  District.  The  total  popula- 
tion at  each  Census  in  the  last  twenty  years  was:  (1881)  326,72c, 
(1891)  364,735,  and  (1901)  366,722.  The  towns  are 
Medak  and  Lingampet  in  the  Medak  taluk,  Siddi- 
pet1,  and  Sadaseopet.  Sangareddipet  is  the  District  head-quarters. 
About  90  per  cent,  of  the  population  are  Hindus,  and  nearly  all  the 
rest  Muhammadans.  Telugu  is  the  language  chiefly  spoken.  The 
following  table  shows  the  distribution  of  population  in  1901: — 


Population. 


V 

Number  of 

**-       -'. 

0 

rt 

C 

w  C  J  -     . 

•^   u 

Think. 

ft 

C 

V 

2 

3 
0. 

0  c 

I- 

3  s 

«  5.2  -  <*> 

u-u  3  H  = 

mber  o 
ons  abl 
ail   ant 
write. 

< 

2 

> 

i, 

56,495 

O  w 
04 

192 

h  "  g. 

a. 

Medak 

294 

70 

+      4-4 

Ramayampet 

273 

79 

55.485 

203 

*      2-9 

■£> 

Baghat 

25 

'5 

5.544 

222 

+  125-3 

£ 

Kalabgur 

234 

I 

85 

56,313 

240 

-    18.8 

L  «* 

Andol  . 

2J2 

. . . 

77 

48,849 

230 

+      3-7 

rt 

Tekmal 

i  ri 

.  • . 

45 

20,684 

lS6 

-      1.1 

O 

lagirs,  &c.   . 

District  total 

856 
2,005 

3 

260 
631 

123,352 

I44 

+     3.2 

9.360 

366,722 

•S3 

+     0.5 

1  Siddipct  was  transferred  to  this  District  from  Karimnagar  in  1905. 


A  GRTCUL  TURE  247 

In  1905  Tekmal  was  merged  in  Andol,  and  Ramayampet  partly  in 
Medak  and  partly  in  the  Kamareddipet  taluk  of  Nizamabad  (Indur) 
District.  Ibrahlmpatan  was  transferred  from  Mahbubnagar  District 
and  added  to  Baghat,  while  Siddipet  was  transferred  to  this  District 
from  KarTmnagar  (Elgandal).  In  its  present  form  the  District  consists 
of  five  taluks  :  Medak,  Siddipet,  Baghat,  Kalabgur,  and  Andol,  besides 
the  four  large  estates  of  Hatnura,  Narsapur,  Narsingi,  and  Nawabpet, 
and  other  minor  jaglrs. 

The  most  numerous  caste  is  that  of  the  Kapus  (69,000).  Next 
come  the  Madigas  or  leather-workers  (40,300),  and  the  Malas  or  Dhers 
(32,400),  both  of  whom  work  also  as  agricultural  labourers.  There  are 
37,400  Brahmans,  32,300  Gollas  or  shepherds,  and  13,600  Komatis, 
who  form  the  trading  and  money-lending  caste.  Nearly  42  per  cent, 
of  the  population  depend  directly  upon  agriculture,  and  1 1  per  cent,  on 
general  labour  and  earthwork. 

The  total  number  of  Christians,  according  to  the  last  Census,  was 
373,  of  whom  327  were  natives.  A  Wesleyan  mission  at  Medak  town 
was  started  in  1887,  and  has  a  staff  of  8  Europeans  and  45  natives. 
The  adherents  are  chiefly  of  the  Mala  caste.  The  mission  maintains 
a  school  and  a  hospital.  The  former  was  opened  in  1887  and  the  latter 
in  1895,  a  large  zanana  ward  being  added  in  1902. 

There  is  hardly  any  difference  in  the  agricultural  condition  of  the 

several   taluks.      The   soils  on    the    highlands  are   mostly  sandy  and 

gravelly,  while  black  soil  is  found  in  small  patches  . 

?,»,/,  ,  Agriculture, 

in  hollows  or  depressed  areas. 

The  tenure  of  lands  is  chiefly  ryotwari.  In  1901  the  District  con- 
tained 1,149  square  miles  of  khalsa  lands,  of  which  489  were  cultivated. 
Of  the  remainder,  114  were  cultivable  waste  and  fallows,  387  were 
forests,  and  159  were  not  available  for  cultivation.  The  staple  food- 
crops  are  rice,  MJra,  and  jowdr,  the  areas  under  which  were  106, 
207,  and  168  square  miles  respectively.  The  rice  in  this  District 
compares  favourably  with  the  finest  qualities  produced  elsewhere. 
Next  in  importance  are  kodro,  lach/ia,  and  various  pulses.  Sugar- 
cane is  grown  in  all  the  taluks,  covering  about  one  square  mile. 

The  cattle  are  of  the  ordinary  kind,  and  buffaloes  are  extensively 
employed  in  rice  and  sugar-cane  cultivation.  No  special  breed  of 
ponies  or  horses  is  indigenous  to  the  District,  those  found  being  very 
inferior.  At  Rajampet,  near  Sangareddipet,  there  is  a  State  stud  farm, 
where  several  stallions  are  kept  with  the  object  of  improving  the  breed, 
but  ryots  are  slow  in  taking  advantage  of  the  facilities  offered  them  in 
this  respect.     Sheep  and  goats  of  the  ordinary  description  are  reared. 

The  total  area  of  irrigated  land  in  1 900-1  was  109  square  miles,  or 
more  than  22  per  cent,  of  the  cultivated  area.  The  different  sources  of 
irrigation  and  the  areas  supplied  by  each  are  as  follows  :   Canals  and 


248  MEDAK  DISTRICT 

channels,  17  square  miles;  tanks,  68;  and  wells,  24.  Tank-irrigation 
is  the  mainstay  of  the  District,  which  contains  351  large  and  1,658  small 
tanks.  The  number  of  wells  is  2,018  ;  and  the  other  sources  of  irriga- 
tion are  small  anicuts,  called  mathris,  of  which  there  are  74.  The 
Malkapur  tank  irrigates  the  lands  of  1 2  villages.  Generally  two  crops 
of  rice  are  raised  with  tank  and  well  irrigation.  Water  is  raised  from 
wells  in  leathern  buckets.  A  large  canal  taking  off  from  the  Manjra 
has  been  constructed  at  a  cost  of  over  10  lakhs,  which  is  estimated  to 
irrigate  10,000  acres  of  land,  and  to  yield  a  revenue  of  2  lakhs.  It 
was  opened  in  1904.  Another  project,  called  the  Manjra  Extension, 
when  completed  will  cost  6\  lakhs  and  irrigate  7,000  acres,  securing 
a  revenue  of  i\  lakhs.  The  District  has  always  been  immune  from 
famine,  owing  to  the  large  number  of  tanks  it  contains. 

Medak  contains  no  protected  forests,  but  there  are  387  square  miles 
of  unprotected  forest. 

No  minerals  of  any  value  are  found.  In  the  hills  of  Lingampet 
nodular  ironstone  is  smelted,  and  the  iron  is  largely  employed  in  the 
local  manufacture  of  agricultural  implements. 

There  is  no  important  hand  industry  in  the  District.     Cotton  cloth 

is  printed  with  fast  dyes  for  use  as  screens,  tablecloths,    floor-cloths, 

«Scc.     Coarse  cotton  cloth  and  silk  stuffs  of  superior 

Trade  and        quality  are  made,  the  latter  after  European  patterns, 
communications.        ,     ^       ,        ,  ir  --ox. 

and   are   largely  used   lor   coats,  sans,   occ.      brass 

vessels  are  made  at  Lingampet  and  Ramayampet.  Sivanagar  and 
Jogipet  contain  tanneries,  whence  leather  is  exported  to  Hyderabad, 
Bombay,  and  Madras.  The  Chamars  prepare  leather  for  the  manu- 
facture of  water  buckets  and  sandals  for  the  ryots.  The  Hyderabad 
Spinning  and  Weaving  Mill  is  situated  near  Mushirabad,  in  the  Baghat 
taluk,  north  of  the  city  of  Hyderabad. 

The  main  exports  are  rice,  both  fine  and  coarse,  unrefined  sugar, 
jaggery,  jowar,  tobacco,  mahtia  oil,  cotton,  gram,  other  cereals  and 
pulses,  brass  and  copper  vessels,  cattle,  and  leather :  while  the  chief 
imports  are  salt,  opium,  salted  fish,  gold  and  silver,  copper,  brass, 
sulphur,  kerosene  oil,  refined  sugar,  silk  and  cotton  piece-goods.  Rice 
is  sent  to  Hyderabad  and  other  parts  of  the  State,  and  leather  to 
Madras  and  Bombay.  Imported  articles  are  brought  to  Sadaseopet 
from  Shankarpalli,  on  the  Nizam's  Guaranteed  State  Railway ;  and 
from  Mirzapalli,  on  the  Hyderabad-Godavari  Valley  Railway  to  Rama- 
yampet, and  thence  distributed  to  Sangareddipet,  Jogipet,  Lingampet, 
Medak,  &c,  whence  they  find  their  way  to  distant  parts  through  weekly 
bazars.  Komatis,  Marwaris,  and  Baljawars  are  the  trading  castes, 
and  they  also  lend  money. 

The  Nizam's  Guaranteed  State  Railway  enters  Medak  from  the  west 
at  Gullaguda  and  passes  out  at  Lingampalli  in  the  east,  a  distance  of 


ADMINISTRATIOX  249 

22  miles.  The  Hyderabad-Godavari  Valley  Railway  runs  almost  due 
north  and  south  through  Manoharabad,  Masaipet,  and  Mirzapalli  on 
the  eastern  border  of  the  District. 

The  total  length  of  roads  is  183  miles,  of  which  81  miles  are  metalled. 
The  metalled  roads  are  in  three  sections  :  Sadaseopet  to  Kukatpalli, 
32  miles;  Shankarpalli  to  Sangareddipet,  14  miles;  and  part  of  the  old 
Nagpur  road,  35  miles.  Unmetalled  roads  lead  to  the  remaining  head- 
quarters of  taluks. 

This  District,  though  a  small  one,  has  been  divided  into  three  sub- 
divisions.   The  Medak  and  Siddipet  taluks  are  under  a  Third  Talukdar, 

Andol  under  the    Second  Talukdar  of  Andol,  and     4J    . 

,    „     ,  ,  ,        r,  1  rr^-i   1       Administration. 

Kalabgur  and  Baghat  under  another  Second    taluk- 
dar.   There  is  also  another  Third  Talukdar  who  acts  as  Assistant  to 
the  First  Talukdar,  the   First  Talukdar  or   Collector  overlooking  the 
revenue  and  magisterial  work  of  his  subordinates.     Each  taluk  is  under 
a  tahsildar. 

The  District  civil  court  at  Sangareddipet  is  presided  over  by  the 
Nazim-i-Dlivani  or  Civil  Judge,  who  is  also  a  Joint-Magistrate  in 
the  absence  of  the  First  Talukdar  from  head-quarters.  The  First 
Talukdar  is  the  chief  magistrate.  The  tahsildars  exercise  third-class 
civil  and  magisterial  powers,  and  preside  over  taluk  civil  courts.  The 
Second  and  Third  Talukdars  exercise  second-class  magisterial  powers. 
There  is  not  much  serious  crime  in  ordinary  years,  but  dacoities  and 
cattle-thefts  increase  in  number  during  the  dry  season  when  the  roads 
are  open. 

Little   information  is   available   as    to  the  revenue   history  of  the 
District.     Formerly  groups  of  villages    or  taluks  were  farmed  out  by 
the  State  to  contractors,  who  received   10    per  cent,   for   collection. 
This  was  followed  by  the  batai  or  share  system,  under  which  the  State 
received  three-fifths  of  the  produce  of  lands  irrigated  from  tanks,  and 
an  equal  share  from  lands  supplied  by  wells.     In  1866  the  ryotwari 
system  was  introduced,  and  revenue  was  collected  in  cash  from  indi- 
vidual ryots.     Kalabgur  was  regularly  settled  in  1892,  Andol  in  1898, 
Ramayampet  and  Medak  in  1900,  Tekmal  in  1901,  and  Baghat  taluk 
in   1905.     Sugar-cane  was  charged   Rs.   200  per  acre  under  the  old 
system,  but  now  water  rates  are  levied  for  '  wet  crops '  according  to 
the  class  of  land.    Before  the  commencement  of  the  survey,  the  records 
showed  an  area  of  67,400  acres  of  'wet'  lands  and  119,463  acres  of 
'  dry.'      The  result  of  the  survey  was  a  decrease  of  3  per  cent,  in  the 
'wet,'  and  an  increase  of  103  per  cent,  in  the  'dry'  lands,  while  the 
settlement  raised  the  revenue  by  2  lakhs  or  16  per  cent,  in  the  i\\e 
taluks   surveyed.      The   average   assessment   on    'dry'    land  is  Rs.  2 
(maximum    Rs.   4,    minimum    R.   0-4),    and   on   '  wet '   land    Rs.    1 3 
(maximum  Rs.  20    minimum  Rs.  6).     The  rates  given  for  'wet'  lands 


25° 


MEDAK  DISTRICT 


are  for  the  abi  (rainy  season)  crop,  the  iabi  (hot  season)  crop  rates 
being  Rs.  35  maximum,  Rs.  10  minimum,  and  Rs.  20  average. 

The  land  revenue  and  the  total  revenue  of  the  District  for  a  series  of 
years  are  shown  below,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1881. 

1891. 

1901. 

1903. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

8,50 
n,45 

8,40 
M,i3 

12,12 

17,75 

8,97 
13,63 

Owing  to  the  changes  in  area  made  in  1905,  the  revenue  demand  is 
now  about  14-6  lakhs. 

There  is  a  municipality  at  Sangareddipet,  and  each  of  the  other  taluk 
head-quarters  has  a  small  conservancy  establishment.  The  District 
board  manages  both  the  municipal  and  local  affairs  of  the  head- 
quarters, and  also  supervises  the  work  of  the  outlying  taluk  boards. 
The  expenditure  in  1900-1  was  Rs.  12,600,  of  which  Rs.  497  was 
laid  out  on  roads.  The  income  was,  as  usual,  derived  from  a  portion 
of  the  land  cess,  levied  at  one  anna  in  the  rupee  on  the  land  revenue 
assessments. 

The  First  Talukdar  is  the  head  of  the  District  police,  with  the  Super- 
intendent {Mohtamim)  as  his  executive  deputy.  The  force  consists  of 
67  subordinate  officers,  499  constables,  and  25  mounted  police,  under 
6  inspectors  and  one  sub-inspector,  distributed  among  32  police 
stations.  There  is  a  District  jail  at  Sangareddipet,  but  only  short- 
sentence  prisoners  are  kept  there,  the  rest  being  sent  to  the  Central 
jail  at  Nizamabad. 

The  District  takes  a  medium  position  in  point  of  literacy,  2-6  per 
cent.  (4-6  males  and  0-35  females)  of  the  population  being  able  to  read 
and  write  in  1901.  The  total  number  of  pupils  under  instruction  in 
1881,  1891,  1901,  and  1903  was  774,  2,293,  I,9°7,  ar*d  2,044  respec- 
tively. In  1903  there  were  25  primary  schools  and  one  middle  school, 
with  159  girls  under  instruction.  The  total  expenditure  on  education 
in  1901  was  Rs.  13,100,  and  the  fee  receipts  amounted  to  Rs.  731. 

The  District  contains  4  dispensaries,  with  accommodation  for  1 1  in- 
patients. The  total  number  of  cases  treated  at  these  during  1901  was 
200  in-patients  and  31,422  out-patients  ;  and  the  number  of  operations 
performed  was  920.  The  total  expenditure  amounted  to  Rs.  11,200. 
The  number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  in  1901  was  540,  or 
only  1-47  per  1,000  of  population. 

Medak  Taluk. — TEluk  in  Medak  District,  Hyderabad  State,  with 
an  area  of  359  square  miles.  Its  population  in  1901,  including  jagirs, 
was  65,852,  compared  with  63,066  in  1891.  The  taluk  contains  two 
towns,  Medak  (population,  8,511),  the  head-quarters,  and  Linoampet 
(5,102);    and  89  villages,  of  which   19  are  jagtr.     The  land  revenue 


MEDCHAL 


25* 


in  1 90 1  was  32  lakhs.  The  taluk  is  somewhat  hilly,  and  its  soils  are 
mostly  sandy.  Rice  and  sugar-cane  are  largely  raised  by  tank-irriga- 
tion. The  Hyderabad-Godavari  Valley  Railway  passes  through  the 
eastern  portion.  The  paigah  taluks  of  Narsapur,  Hatnura,  and  Nawab- 
pet  lie  to  the  south,  with  populations  of  15,567,  14,183,  and  6,179 
respectively.  The  two  former  consist  of  39  villages  each,  and  the 
latter  of  8  villages.  Their  respective  areas  are  about  130,  128,  and 
26  square  miles.  The  jagir  taluk  of  Narsingi,  with  1 1  villages  and 
a  population  of  8,093,  also  lies  to  the  south,  and  has  an  area  of  about 
36  square  miles.  In  1905  some  villages  were  added  to  the  taluk  from 
Ramayampet,  while  others  were  transferred  from  it  to  Kamareddipet 
and  Yellareddipet  in  Nizamabad. 

Medak  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name  in 
Medak  District,  Hyderabad  State,  situated  in  180  3'  N.  and  780  26'  E. 
Population  (1901),  8,511.  The  town  is  built  on  the  northern  and 
eastern  sides  of  a  high  hill,  which  was  at  one  time  strongly  fortified. 
The  fortifications  are  said  to  have  been  built  originally  by  a  Warangal 
Raja,  but  the  present  fort  was  constructed  about  the  middle  of  the 
sixteenth  century.  It  contains  a  brass  gun  10  feet  long,  cast  at  Rotter- 
dam for  the  Dutch  in  1620.  A  Persian  inscription  on  a  slab  in  the 
taluk  office  alludes  to  the  building  of  a  mosque  in  1641,  on  the  ruins 
of  a  demolished  temple.  A  large  mission  school,  with  180  pupils,  and 
several  mission  buildings  stand  north-east  of  the  town. 

Medak  Gulshanabad  Division. — Division  of  the  Hyderabad 
State,  formed  in  1905  from  the  old  Bidar  Division.  It  includes  four 
Districts,  as  shown  below  :  — 


District. 

Area  in  square 
miles. 

Population, 
1901. 

Land  revenue 

and  cesses, 

in  thousands 

of  rupees. 

Nizamabad  (Indur) 
Medak    . 
Mahbubnagar 
Nalgonda 

Total 

3,282 

3,447 
5,842 
4,9 1 3 

467,367 
536,027 

613,771 
823,121 

16.II 

15,52 
8,S6 

15,53 

'7,484 

2,440,286 

56,02 

The  density  of  population  is  1,396  persons  per  square  mile ;  and  the 
Division  contains  n  towns  and  2,747  villages.  The  chief  places  of 
commercial  importance  are  the  towns  of  Nizamabad,  Medak,  Sadasko- 
pet,  Siddipet,  Mahbubnagar,  Naravanpet,  Nalgonda,  and  Bhox- 
gir.  Medak,  Nalgonda,  and  Bhonglr  are  also  places  of  historic  interest. 
The  head-quarters  of  the  Subahdar  or  Commissioner  are  at  Patancheru. 

Medchal. — Crown  taluk  in  the  north-east  of  the  Atraf-i-balda  Dis- 
trict, Hyderabad  State,  also  called  the  ShimCxli  or  '  northern '  taluk, 
with  an  area  of  634  square  miles.    The  population  in  1901,  including 

VOL.  XVII.  K 


252 


ME  DC  HAL 


jdgirs,  was  80,520,  compared  with  91,113  in  1891.  The  tahtk  contains 
167  villages,  of  which  106  are  jdgir;  and  Medchal  (population,  3,019) 
is  the  head-quarters.  The  land  revenue  in  1901  was  one  lakh. 
Medchal  is  well  supplied  with  tanks  from  which  much  rice  is  irrigated. 
The  jdgir  taluk  of  Allabad,  with  a  population  of  3,201,  2  villages, 
and  an  area  of  about  8  square  miles,  lies  to  the  east  of  Medchal. 

Medinipur. — District,  subdivision,  town,  and  canal  in  Bengal.  See 
Midnapore. 

Meeanee  (1). — Village  in  the  District  and  taluka  of  Hyderabad, 
Sind,  Bombay.     See  Miani  (2). 

Meeanee  (2). — Town  in  the  Dasuya  tahsil  of  Hoshiarpur  District, 
Punjab.     See  Miani  (3). 

Meeanee  (3). — Town  in  Shahpur  District,  Punjab.     See  Miani  (4). 

Meean  Meer. — Former  name  of  Lahore  Cantonment,  Punjab. 

Meerut  Division. — Division  on  the  north-western  border  of  the 
United  Provinces,  extending  from  the  outer  ranges  of  the  Himalayas 
across  the  valley  of  the  Dun  and  its  southern  boundary,  the  Siwalik 
range,  to  the  middle  of  the  Doab.  It  lies  between  270  29' and  310  2'  N. 
and  770  2'  and  780  38''  E.,  and  is  bounded  throughout  by  the  Jumna 
on  the  west  and  the  Ganges  on  the  east.  The  head-quarters  of  the 
Commissioner  are  at  Meerut  City.  The  total  population  of  the 
Division  increased  from  5,141,204  in  1881  to  5,326,833  in  1891,  and 
5,979^7 i  1  in  1901,  the  increase  during  the  last  decade  having  been 
greater  than  in  any  other  Division  of  the  Provinces.  The  total  area  is 
11,302  square  miles;  and  the  density  of  population  is  529  persons  per 
square  mile,  compared  with  445  for  the  Provinces  as  a  whole.  The 
Division  is  the  fifth  largest  in  area  and  the  third  in  population.  In  1901 
Hindus  numbered  75  per  cent,  of  the  total  and  Musalmans  23  per  cent.; 
other  religions  include  Jains  (37,941),  Aryas  (33,718),  Christians  (29,294, 
of  whom  22,864  were  natives),  and  Sikhs  (4,148).  The  Division  con- 
tains six  Districts,  as  shown  below  : — 


District. 

Area  in  square 
miles. 

Population, 
1  go  1. 

Land  revenue 
and  cesses, 

1903-4, 

in  thousands 

of  rupees. 

Dehra  Dun 

Saharanpur 

Miizaffarnagar     . 

Meernt        .... 

Bulandshahr 

AlTgarh       .... 

Total 

1,209 
2,228 
1,666 

2,354 
1,899 
1,946 

178>195 
1,045,230 

877)iS8 

',540,175 
1 ,138,101 
1,200,822 

1,09 
17,76 

17.57 

32,6l 

23,31 
27,97 

1,20,31 

1 1,302 

5,979,7  " 

Dehra  Dun   lies   chiefly  between  the  Siwaliks  and  the  Himalayas, 
stretching  up  into  both  ranges ;    Saharanpur  reaches  the  Siwaliks,  but 


MEERUT  DISTRICT  253 

lies  chiefly  in  the  great  plain  ;  and  the  other  Districts  are  entirely  sepa- 
rated from  the  hills.  The  Division  contains  112  towns  and  7,713 
villages.  The  largest  towns  are  Meerut  (population,  118,129  with 
cantonments),  Aligarh  (70,434),  Saharanpur  (66,254),  Hathras 
(42,578),  Khurja  (29,277),  Dehra  (28,095  with  cantonments),  Har- 
dwar  (25,597),  Muzaffarnagar  (23,444),  and  Deoband  (20,167). 

The  chief  places  of  commercial  importance  are  Meerut,  Saharanpur, 
Aligarh  (Koil),  Hathras,  Khurja,  and  Muzaffarnagar ;  but  many  other 
smaller  towns  are  important  centres  of  the  grain  trade.  Hardwar  and 
Garhmuktesar  are  famous  for  their  religious  associations.  Hastina- 
pur,  now  a  tiny  hamlet,  is  reputed  to  have  been  the  capital  of  the 
Pandava  kingdom.  At  Kalsi  there  is  a  rock  inscription  of  Asoka  ; 
Baran  or  Bulandshahr,  AlIgarh  or  Koil,  and  Sardhana  have  special 
associations,  referred  to  in  the  articles  on  those  places,  while  Meerut 
city  was  the  place  where  the  great  Mutiny  first  broke  out  in  Northern 
India  in  May,  1857. 

Meerut  District  (Merath). — District  in  the  United  Provinces,  lying 
between  280  3$'  and  290  18'  N.  and  770  7'  and  780  12'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  2,354  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Muzaffarnagar 
District  and  on  the  south  by  Bulandshahr,  while  the  Ganges  divides  it 
on  the  east  from  Moradabad  and  Bijnor,  and  the  Jumna  on  the  west 
from  the  Punjab  Districts  of  Karnal  and  Delhi.  On 
the  banks  of  these  great  rivers  are  stretches  of  Physical 
inferior  low-lying  khddar  land.  The  rest  of  the 
District  is,  for  the  most  part,  a  level  upland,  the  edges  of  which  are 
scored  by  ravines.  This  may  be  divided  into  three  main  tracts.  The 
western  division,  stretching  almost  to  the  Upper  Ganges  Canal,  has  an 
extraordinarily  rich  and  uniform  soil,  except  immediately  above  the 
rivers  Jumna  and  Hindan.  East  of  this  lies  a  shallow  depression  with 
poor  natural  drainage.  The  third  tract,  extending  to  the  high  banks 
of  the  Ganges,  is  characterized  by  the  presence  of  sandy  dunes,  which 
are  scattered  in  various  directions  in  the  eastern  portion,  but  form 
a  well-defined  ridge  in  the  west. 

Besides  the  Jumna  and  the  Ganges,  the  most  important  river  is  the 
Hindan,  which  runs  through  the  west  of  the  District  and  has  a  con- 
siderable area  of  khddar  land.  Two  small  streams  called  Chhoiya,  and 
a  cut  called  the  Abu  Nala,  carry  off  part  of  the  drainage  of  the  central 
depression  and  the  eastern  tract  into  the  ill-defined  bed  of  the  East 
Kali  Nadi.  In  the  extreme  east  of  the  District  the  Burhganga,  or 
'  Old  Ganges,'  forms  a  chain  of  swamps  close  below  the  old  high  bank. 

Meerut  is  situated  entirely  in  the  Ganges  alluvium,  and  kankar  and 
saline  efflorescences  are  the  only  minerals. 

The  botany  of  the  District  presents  no  peculiarities.  There  is  very 
little  natural  jungle,  and  grazing  land  is  chiefly  found  in  the  Ganges 

r  2 


254  MEERUT  DISTRICT 

and  Jumna  khadars,  and  to  a  less  extent  along  the  Hindan.  The 
District  is,  however,  well  wooded,  and  groves  cover  21  square  miles. 
The  commonest  tree  is  the  mango  ;  but  the  bel  and  guava  are  largely 
grown  for  fruit,  and  the  shisham  is  planted  in  the  road  and  canal 
avenues. 

Leopards  are  fairly  common  in  the  Ganges  khadar  and  ravines,  but 
tigers  are  extremely  rare.  Antelope  are  numerous  in  most  parts  of 
the  District ;  Meerut  is  famous  for  wild  hog,  and  the  pig-sticking  com- 
petition held  annually  for  the  Kadir  {khadar)  Cup  in  March  or  April  is 
well-known.  Other  animals  found  include  the  wolf,  fox,  jackal,  hog 
deer,  and  nilgai.  Game-birds  are  numerous.  Duck  and  teal  are  found 
along  the  Burhganga  and  other  rivers,  and  in  the^  larger  swamps  in  the 
interior.  Snipe,  geese,  black  and  grey  partridges,  quail,  pigeons,  and 
sand-grouse  are  also  common. 

The  comparatively  high  latitude  and  elevated  position  of  Meerut 
make  it  one  of  the  healthiest  Districts  in  the  plains  of  India.  From 
November  to  March  the  weather  is  cool  and  invigorating,  hoar-frost 
being  frequently  found  in  January  at  an  early  hour  of  the  day.  The 
hot  westerly  winds  begin  in  April,  and  the  rains  set  in  about  the  end 
of  June.  The  mean  temperature  is  about  770,  ranging  from  570  in 
January  to  910  in  May  or  June. 

The  District  is  practically  the  meeting-place  of  the  Bengal  and 
Bombay  monsoon  currents.  The  annual  rainfall  for  thirty  years  has 
averaged  29  inches ;  but  it  varies  in  different  parts,  and  the  south-west 
of  the  District  receives  less  than  the  north-east.  Considerable  fluctua- 
tions occur;  during  the  five  years  ending  1895  the  rainfall  averaged 
as  high  as  47  inches,  while  it  sometimes  falls  below  20  inches. 

The  District  is  connected  with  the  earliest  traditions  of  the  Lunar 
race  of  the  Hindus.  A  small  hamlet  on  the  high  bank  of  the  Ganges 
is  believed  to  mark  the  main  site  of  Hastinapur,  the 
capital  of  the  Kauravas  and  Pandavas,  which  was 
washed  away  by  the  Ganges.  The  Asoka  pillar,  now  standing  on  the 
Ridge  at  Delhi,  is  said  to  have  been  removed  from  near  Meerut  city, 
and  remains  of  Buddhist  buildings  have  been  discovered  near  the 
Jama  Masjid.  In  the  eleventh  century  a.d.  the  south-western  part  of 
the  District  was  held  by  Har  Dat,  the  Dor  Raja  of  Baran  or  Buland- 
shahr,  who  was  defeated  by  Mali  mud  of  Ghazni  in  1018.  According 
to  tradition,  the  north  of  the  District  was  held  by  the  Tagas,  who  were 
driven  south  and  east  by  the  Jats.  The  Meos  were  called  in  by  the 
Gahlots  and  expelled  the  Dors.  The  first  undoubted  Muhammadan 
invasion  was  that  of  Kutb-ud-din,  the  general  of  Muhammad  Ghori, 
in  1 1 92,  when  the  city  of  Meerut  was  taken  and  all  the  Hindu  temples 
were  converted  into  mosques.  Under  succeeding  Sultans  we  hear  little 
of  the  District,  which  may  therefore  be  considered  to  have  escaped 


HIS  TOR  Y  255 

any  notable  misfortune,  until  the  Mongol  invasion  of  1398.  Timur 
swooped  down  upon  Meerut  with  more  than  ordinary  barbarity,  and 
was  met  with  equal  Hindu  obstinacy.  At  the  fort  of  LonI,  many  of  the 
Rajputs  burned  their  houses,  with  their  women  and  children  within, 
and  then  sallied  out  to  sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as  they  could.  After 
the  capture,  Timur  ordered  the  massacre  of  all  the  Hindu  prisoners  in 
his  camp,  whom  he  himself  represents  as  numbering  100,000  persons. 
He  then  went  on  to  the  sack  of  Delhi,  and  returned  to  the  town  of 
Meerut,  then  ruled  by  an  Afghan  chief  named  I  lias.  Timur  first  made 
his  approaches  by  mining,  and  on  the  second  day  carried  the  walls  by 
storm.  All  the  males  were  put  to  the  sword,  and  the  fortifications  and 
houses  of  the  Hindus  razed  to  the  ground.  Thence  his  army  pro- 
ceeded northward  along  the  two  great  rivers,  taking  every  fort,  town, 
and  village  they  passed. 

The  firm  establishment  of  the  Mughal  dynasty  in  the  sixteenth 
century,  and  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  their  court,  gave  Meerut 
a  period  of  internal  tranquillity  and  royal  favour.  The  valley  of  the 
Jumna  became  a  favourite  hunting  resort  for  the  imperial  family  and 
their  great  officers.  Pleasure-gardens  and  game-preserves  were  estab- 
lished in  the  low-lying  tracts  just  opposite  Delhi ;  while  it  was  for  the 
purpose  of  watering  one  of  these  that  the  Eastern  Jumna  Canal  was 
first  designed.  After  the  death  of  Aurangzeb,  Meerut,  though  nomi- 
nally subject  to  the  Delhi  emperor,  was  really  ruled  by  local  chieftains  : 
the  Saiyids  of  Muzaffarnagar  in  the  north,  the  Jats  in  the  south-east, 
and  the  Gujars  along  the  Ganges  and  in  the  south-west.  It  was  also 
exposed  to  the  same  horrors  of  alternate  Sikh  and  Maratha  invasions 
which  devastated  the  other  parts  of  the  Upper  Doab ;  while  the  Jats 
and  Rohillas  occasionally  interposed,  to  glean  the  remnant  of  the 
plunder  which  remained  from  the  greater  and  more  fortunate  hordes. 

From  1707  till  1775,  Meerut  was  the  scene  of  perpetual  strife;  and 
it  was  only  rescued  from  anarchy  by  the  exertions  of  a  European 
military  adventurer,  Walter  Reinhardt  or  Sombre,  one  of  the  many 
soldiers  of  fortune  who  were  tempted  to  try  their  destinies  in  Upper 
India  during  the  troubled  decline  of  the  Delhi  dynasty.  After  per- 
petrating the  massacre  at  Patna,  1763,  Reinhardt  established  himself 
at  Sardhana  in  one  of  the  northern  parganas  of  Meerut ;  and  on  his 
death  in  1778  left  his  domains  to  his  widow,  generally  known  as  the 
Begam  Sumru,  from  the  assumed  name  of  her  husband.  This  remark- 
able woman  was  of  Arab  descent,  and  originally  followed  the  trade  of 
a  dancing-girl.  After  her  marriage  with  Reinhardt,  she  was  baptized 
into  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  to  which  she  became  a  considerable 
benefactress.  Meanwhile,  the  southern  portion  of  the  District  still 
remained  in  its  anarchic  condition  under  Maratha  rule,  until  the  fall 
of  Delhi  in  1803,  when  all  the   country  in  the  possession  of  Sindhia 


256  MEERUT  DISTRICT 

between  the  Jumna  and  the  Ganges  was  ceded  to  the  British.  The 
Begam,  who  had  up  till  that  time  given  assistance  to  Sindhia,  there- 
upon made  submission  to  the  new  Government,  to  which  she  remained 
constantly  faithful  till  her  death  in  1836. 

Meerut  has  few  historical  incidents  to  show  during  the  early  British 
period  ;  but  it  has  been  rendered  memorable  by  the  active  part  which 
it  took  in  the  Mutiny  of  1857,  being  the  place  where  the  first  outbreak 
occurred  in  Upper  India.  From  the  beginning  of  the  year  disquieting 
rumours  had  been  afloat  among  the  native  troops,  and  the  'greased- 
cartridge '  story  had  spread  widely  through  their  ranks.  In  April  a 
trooper  named  Brijmohan  informed  his  comrades  that  he  had  used 
the  new  cartridges,  and  all  would  have  to  do  so  shortly ;  but  within 
a  few  days  Brijmohan's  house  was  set  on  fire,  and  from  that  time  acts 
of  incendiarism  became  common.  On  May  9  some  men  of  the 
3rd  Bengal  Cavalry,  who  had  refused  to  use  the  cartridges,  were  con- 
demned to  ten  years'  imprisonment.  Next  day,  Sunday,  May  10,  their 
comrades  took  the  fatal  determination  to  mutiny ;  and  at  5  p.m.  the 
massacre  of  Europeans  in  the  city  began. 

The  subsequent  events  belong  rather  to  imperial  than  to  local 
history,  and  could  not  be  adequately  summed  up  in  a  brief  resume. 
It  must  suffice  to  say  that,  throughout  the  Mutiny,  the  cantonments 
remained  in  the  hands  of  the  British  forces,  and  the  District  was  on 
the  whole  kept  fairly  clear  of  rebels.  Meerut  was  more  than  once 
threatened  by  Walidad  Khan,  the  rebellious  chieftain  of  Malagarh  in 
Bulandshahr  District ;  but  his  demonstrations  were  never  very  serious. 
The  greatest  peril  lay  in  the  threatened  attack  by  rebels  from  Rohil- 
khand,  which  was  successfully  warded  off.  Indeed,  it  is  a  noticeable 
fact  that  the  very  city  where  the  Mutiny  broke  out,  and  where  the  first 
massacre  took  place,  was  yet  held  by  a  small  body  of  Europeans, 
surrounded  by  thousands  of  disaffected  natives,  under  the  very  shadow 
of  Delhi,  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  that  desperate  struggle. 

Though  many  places  are  connected  by  tradition  with  the  events 
related  in  the  Mahabharata,  such  as  Hastinapur,  Baghpat,  Garh- 
muktesar,  Parichhatgarh,  Puth,  and  Barnawa,  very  ancient  temples 
or  other  archaeological  remains  have  not  been  discovered.  A  mosque 
built  by  Balban  stands  at  Garhmuktesar,  and  there  are  a  few  Muham- 
madan  buildings  dating  from  the  Mughal  dynasty  at  Meerut  City. 

The  District  contains  27  towns  and  1,494  villages.  The  population 
is  rising  steadily.  The  number  at  the  last  four  enumerations  was  as 
Bftnil1a,n  follows:  (1872)  1,276,167,  (1881)  1,313,137,(1891) 
1,391,458,  and  (1901)  1,540,175.  lhe  increase  in 
the  last  decade  (io-6  per  cent.)  was  six  times  as  great  as  the  Provincial 
average.  There  are  six  tah&ls — Meerut,  Ghaziabad,  Mawana, 
Baghpat,  Sakdhana,  and  Hapur—  the  head-quarters  of  each  being 


popula  rioy 


257 


at  a  town  of  the  same  name.  The  ehief  towns  are  the  municipalities 
of  Meerut,  the  District  head-quarters,  Hapur,  Sardhana,  Ghaziabad, 
and  Mawana,  and  the  'notified  areas'  of  Baraut,  Baghpat,  Pilkhua, 
and  Shahdara.  The  principal  statistics  of  population  in  1901  are 
shown  below : — 


U 

3 
Cm 

Number  of 

c 

0 

-  —  ~i 
<-—  =  .■ 

w  £ 

4J 

0  n  rt  - 

Tahsil. 

!0 

1 

0 

3 

5  "-C'-S  C  - 

5.5.2   gT3 

umb 
ons 
ead 
writ 

U 

< 

H 

> 

P* 

a.— 

C    r/t 
ft, 

|?|*« 

Z  C  u 

u 

18.048 

Meerut 

364 

5 

2  So 

342,143 

940 

+    4-9 

Ghaziabad 

493 

9 

332 

276,518 

562 

4-  I  1-9 

7,122 

Mawana    . 

43i 

4 

-'4s 

200,399 

465 

+  12.7 

3,398 

Baghpat    . 

405 

6 

218 

297,506 

735 

+  J4-4 

7,285 

Sardhana  . 

250 

r 

124 

l80,I4I 

721 

+    6-8 

5, '9s 

Hapur 

District  total 

411 

2 

292 

243,468 

592 
654 

+  14-8 
+  10.7 

6,910 

-•354 

27 

1 ,494 

1,540,175 

47,96i 

Of  the  total  population,  74  per  cent,  are  Hindus,  23  per  cent. 
Musalmans,  1  per  cent.  Jains,  8  per  cent.  Christians,  while  Aryas 
number  5,000.  The  great  density  in  the  Meerut  tahsil  is  due  to  the 
large  city  of  Meerut,  while  Mawana,  which  has  the  lowest  density, 
includes  a  considerable  area  of  Ganges  khadar.  More  than  99  per 
cent,  of  the  inhabitants  speak  the  Hindustani  dialect  of  Western 
Hindi. 

Among  Hindus  the  most  numerous  caste  is  that  of  the  Chamars 
(leather-dressers  and  labourers),  who  number  223,000,  and  form  20  per 
cent,  of  the  Hindu  population.  They  are  followed  by  the  Jats,  184,000, 
who  are  the  most  industrious  agriculturists  and  hold  a  larger  area  both 
as  proprietors  and  cultivators  than  any  other  caste.  Brahmans  number 
121,000;  Rajputs,  79,000;  Banias,  59,000;  Gujars,  58,000:  Tagas, 
41,000;  Ahlrs,  25,000;  and  Bhangis  or  sweepers,  44,000.  The  fats, 
Gujars,  and  Tagas  are  not  found  in  the  centre  and  east  of  the  Pro- 
vinces, and  the  Tagas  (agriculturists)  are  more  numerous  here  than  in 
any  other  District.  The  most  numerous  Muhammadan  tribe  is  that  of 
the  Shaikhs,  50,000;  followed  by  Rajputs,  46,000;  Julahas  (weavers), 
33,000;  Pathans,  19,000;  Saiyids,  15,000;  and  Tagas,  20,000.  More 
than  49  per  cent,  of  the  population  are  supported  by  agriculture, 
11  per  cent,  by  general  labour,  10  per  cent,  by  personal  services,  3  per 
cent,  by  weaving,  and  nearly  3  per  cent,  by  grain-dealing. 

In  1901  there  were  9,315  native  Christians  in  the  District,  of  whom 
7,400  were  Methodists  and  1,100  Roman  Catholics.  The  four  missions 
at  work  are  the  Roman  Catholic,  the  Church  Missionary  Society,  the 
American  Methodist,  and  the  Reformed  Presbyterian  Churches.  Sar- 
dhana is  the  chief  station  of  the  Roman  Catholics,  who  commenced 


2^8 


ME E RUT  DISTRICT 


Agriculture. 


work  there  at  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  under  the  Begam 
Sumru.  The  Church  Missionary  Society's  Mission  dates  from  1815, 
and  the  other  two  missions  are  of  recent  institution.  The  latter  admit 
converts  easily,  and  chiefly  labour  among  the  lower  classes. 

As  is  usual  in  the  Upper  Doab,  the  Jats  are  the  best  cultivators,  and 
all  good  land  is  manured  whether  near  the  village  site  or  not.  The 
soil  varies  from  sand  to  thick  clay ;  but  the  greater 
portion  is  a  fertile  loam,  and  most  of  the  District  is 
capable  of  irrigation  from  canals  or  wells.  The  Ganges  and  Jumna 
and,  to  a  smaller  extent,  the  Hindan  khddars  are  precarious  tracts ; 
but  the  District  as  a  whole  ranks  as  one  of  the  finest  in  the  United 
Provinces. 

The  tenures  are  those  common  in  the  United  Provinces.  More  than 
50  per  cent,  of  the  total  area  is  held  in  bhaiyachara  tenure ;  nearly 
22  per  cent,  in  imperfect  patfidari;  and  the  rest  in  perfect  pattldari 
and  zamlndari  in  equal  proportions.  The  main  statistics  of  cultivation 
for  1903-4  are  shown  below,  in  square  miles  :  — 


Tahsil. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated. 

Cultivable 
waste. 

Meernt 

Ghaziabad  . 
Mawana 
Baghpat     . 
Sardhana    . 
Hapur 

Total 

364 
493 
431 

4°5 
250 
411 

277 
349 
2  73 
1$ 
201 
320 

122 
180 

89 
190 

82 
112 

29 
69 
94 
22 

18 
34 

2,-354 

i,75<5 

775 

266 

Wheat  and  gram  are  the  most  important  food-grains,  covering  an 
area  of  634  and  241  square  miles  respectively,  or  36  and  14  per  cent, 
of  the  net  area  cropped.  Maize  and  Jowdr,  with  189  and  164  square 
miles,  are  also  important.  The  most  valuable  of  the  other  crops  are 
sugar-cane  (179  square  miles)  and  cotton  (60  square  miles). 

In  the  khddar,  cultivation  depends  chiefly  on  the  season,  and  in  dry 
years  considerable  areas  may  be  sown.  The  striking  feature  of  the 
District  during  the  last  thirty  years  is  the  increase  by  about  50  per 
cent,  in  the  area  under  sugar-cane,  which  is  now  the  crop  from  which 
the  tenants  pay  their  rent  and  the  zamindars  their  revenue.  The  area 
cropped  in  two  consecutive  harvests  in  the  same  year,  especially  with 
maize  in  the  autumn  and  wheat  mixed  with  peas,  &c,  in  the  spring, 
is  also  increasing.  The  area  under  cotton  has  declined,  and  indigo  is 
grown  only  by  a  few  of  the  large  zamindars.  There  is  a  small,  but 
steady,  demand  for  loans  under  the  Agriculturists'  Loans  Act,  amounting 
to  about  Rs.  2,000  annually ;  but  advances  under  the  Land  Improve- 
ment  Loans  Act  are  rarely  taken.      Out  of  Rs.  16,000   lent  during 


TRADE  AND    COMMUNICATIONS  259 

the  ten  years  ending  1900,  Rs.  11,000  was  advanced  in  the  last  year. 
A  great  deal  has  been  done  to  improve  the  drainage  of  the  District, 
by  deepening  and  straightening  some  of  the  rivers,  such  as  the  East 
Kali  Nadi  and  its  tributaries,  the  two  Chhoiyas,  and  by  making  cuts  in 
other  places.  In  the  south-west  of  the  District  an  embankment 
has  been  made  to  prevent  flooding  from  the  Jumna. 

Private  enterprise  has  done  something  to  improve  the  ordinary 
inferior  breed  of  cattle,  and  several  zaminddrs  have  imported  good 
bulls  from  Hissar.  The  best  of  the  cattle  have  been  imported  from 
the  same  place,  but  many  good  animals  are  now  bred  locally.  Horse- 
breeding  has  become  an  important  business.  Stables  for  a  Government 
stud  were  established  at  Babugarh  near  Hapur  in  1823,  and  many 
zaminddrs  turned  their  attention  to  horse-breeding.  The  mares  were 
subsequently  disposed  of,  though  stallions  are  still  kept  by  Government. 
There  has  been  a  considerable  improvement  in  the  last  thirty  years, 
and  chargers  are  bred  for  the  native  cavalry  and  mounted  police. 
Besides  the  stallions  at  Babugarh,  twelve  others  were  maintained  by 
Government  in  1903,  when  the  supervision  of  horse-breeding  was 
transferred  from  the  Civil  Veterinary  to  the  Remount  department. 
Good  mules  are  also  bred  from  Government  donkey  stallions.  The 
sheep  and  goats  of  the  District  are  of  the  ordinary  inferior  breed. 

About  40  to  60  per  cent,  of  the  cultivated  area  is  irrigated  according 
to  the  season.  In  1903-4  canals  irrigated  494  square  miles,  wells  271, 
and  other  sources  10.  The  west  of  the  District  is  supplied  by  the 
Eastern  Jumna  Canal,  the  centre  by  the  Upper  Ganges  Canal, 
and  the  east  by  the  Anupshahr  branch  of  the  latter.  Canals  have  to 
a  large  extent  superseded  wells ;  and  the  area  irrigated  in  the  eastern 
tract  has  benefited  especially,  as  well-irrigation  was  rare.  It  is  only  in 
parts  of  the  Sardhana  and  Hapur  tahs'ils  that  well-irrigation  supplies 
a  larger  area  than  canals. 

The  chief  mineral  product  is  kankar,  which  occurs  in  blocks  as  well 
as  in  nodules,  and  is  used  for  road-metalling  and  for  making  lime,  as 
well  as  for  building  purposes.  Up  to  1833  salt  was  largely  manufac- 
tured, and  a  little  saltpetre  is  still  prepared.  The  saline  efflorescence 
called  reh,  which  contains  carbonate  of  soda,  is  used  for  making 
country  glass,  and  also  in  dyeing  and  washing  clothes. 

The   most  important  industry  is  tanning,  though  there  is  no  large 

tannery.     Much  of  the  out-turn  is  exported  to  Cawnpore  and  Calcutta, 

but  a  fair  amount  is  made  up  on  the  spot  into  shoes 

and  sent  to   Delhi.     Cotton-weaving  is    carried    on :«.«*,•«„„ 

°  communications. 

largely  at  Meerut  and  several  other  places,  but  only 
for  the  local  market.     More  than  half  the  raw  cotton  grown  is  exported 
to  Cawnpore  and  Calcutta.     Two  cotton-presses  at  Hapur  employed 
263   persons  in   1904.      A  European  company  for  soap   manufacture 


260  MEERUT  DISTRICT 

at  Meerut  employs  about  40  hands,  and  an  ice  factory  about  20. 
There  are  also  eleven  indigo  factories,  and  a  small  flour-mill  and  oil- 
mill.  Blankets  are  made  at  Nirpura  in  the  Sardhana  tahsil,  ornamental 
pottery  at  Bahadurgarh  in  the  Hapur  tahsil,  and  cheap  cutlery,  glass 
bangles,  jewellery,  and  furniture  are  turned  out  at  a  few  centres. 

The  exports  consist  chiefly  of  wheat,  sugar,  oilseeds,  and  cotton, 
while  the  imports  are  metals,  cotton  cloth,  building  materials,  ghl, 
drugs,  and  spices.  The  municipalities  are  the  chief  centres  of  trade, 
especially  Meerut,  Hapur,  and  Ghaziabad.  Internal  traffic  is  very 
large.  The  sugar  goes  largely  to  the  Punjab  and  Rajputana,  while 
wheat  is  exported  to  Europe.  A  large  proportion  of  the  trade  finds  its 
way  to  Delhi.  Timber  and  bamboos  are  brought  to  Meerut  from  the 
forests  farther  north  by  the  Upper  Ganges  Canal  and  the  Ganges. 

Trade  has  been  greatly  fostered  by  the  improvement  of  communica- 
tions. The  oldest  railway  is  the  East  Indian,  which  just  cuts  across 
the  south-west  corner  of  the  District.  It  was  followed  by  the  North- 
western, which  passes  through  the  middle.  In  1900  a  branch  of  the 
Oudh  and  Rohilkhand  Railway  was  opened,  which  traverses  the 
southern  part.  Another  important  branch  of  the  same  line  connects 
Meerut  city  with  Hapur,  and  will  be  continued  through  Bulandshahr 
to  Khurja.  The  rich  tract  between  the  North-Western  Railway  and 
the  Jumna  is  to  be  opened  up  by  a  light  railway  from  Shahdara  on  the 
East  Indian  Railway  opposite  Delhi  to  Saharanpur. 

The  total  length  of  metalled  roads  is  216  miles,  which  is  only 
exceeded  in  one  District  in  the  Provinces;  of  these,  92  miles  are 
Provincial  and  the  rest  local.  There  are  also  392  miles  of  unmetalled 
roads,  maintained  from  Local  funds.  There  are  avenues  of  trees  along 
about  180  miles.  The  western  part  of  the  District  is  most  in  need  of 
better  communications,  which  will  be  supplied  by  the  light  railway 
referred  to  above. 

The  Upper  Doab  was  ravaged  by  famine  at  frequent  intervals  before 
British  rule,  and  the  disorders  of  the  eighteenth  century  frequently 
caused  distress ;  but  Meerut  is  not  specially  men- 
tioned by  the  native  historians.  There  was  frequent 
distress  in  the  early  years  of  the  nineteenth  century,  and  the  famine 
of  1837  was  exceptionally  severe.  In  i860,  after  the  disastrous  effects 
of  the  Mutiny,  famine  was  imminent ;  but  the  railway  works  in  the 
south-east  of  the  District  gave  employment  to  thousands.  The  famines 
of  1868  and  later  years  hardly  affected  the  District  adversely,  and  relief 
works  have  chiefly  been  required  for  starving  immigrants.  This  result 
is  largely  due  to  the  extensive  system  of  canal-irrigation  and  the  sturdy 
nature  of  the  peasantry.  In  1896-7,  when  famine  raged  elsewhere, 
the  Jats  of  Meerut  prayed  openly  for  a  continuance  of  the  high  prices 
which  gave  them  such  handsome  profits. 


ADMINISTRATION  261 

The  Collector  is  usually  assisted  by  a  Joint  and  Assistant  Magistrate 

belonging  to  the  Indian  Civil  Service,   and  by  five     . .    .  .  . 

%  1,  •      1   •      T    j-        11         -j-  Administration. 

Deputy-Collectors  recruited  in  India,  all  residing  at 

Meerut.     There  is  a  tahslldar  at  the  head-quarters  of  each  of  the  six 

tahsih. 

The  District  and  Sessions  Judge  has  jurisdiction  over  the  whole 
District,  and  also  civil  jurisdiction  over  the  Sikandarabad  tahsll  of 
Bulandshahr  District.  He  is  aided  by  an  Assistant  Judge,  a  Subor- 
dinate Judge,  and  two  Munsifs.  In  1904  there  were  two  additional 
Munsifs,  and  an  additional  Judge  was  sanctioned  for  three  years. 
A  few  Village  Munsifs  have  also  been  appointed.  There  is  a  special 
Cantonment  Magistrate,  with  an  assistant,  at  Meerut.  As  usual,  the 
most  common  forms  of  crime  are  burglary  and  petty  theft ;  but  murder, 
robbery,  and  dacoity  are  more  frequent  than  in  most  Districts.  Cases 
of  rioting  and  criminal  trespass  are  very  common,  and  the  Gujars  in 
the  Ganges  and  Jumna  khadars  are  notorious  cattle  thieves.  Female 
infanticide  was  practised  by  Gujars  and  Jats,  especially  the  former,  but 
has  nearly  died  out. 

The  area  comprised  in  the  District  was  acquired  in  1803,  and  was 
at    first  administered  as    part    of  Saharanpur,  of  which  it  eventually 
formed  the  southern  division  with  a  Collector  at   Meerut.     In  1818 
a  separate  District  was  made,  which  was  further  subdivided  in  1824  by 
the  removal  of  parts  of  what  are  now  Bulandshahr  and  Muzaffarnagar. 
The  early  land  revenue  settlements  were  simply  based  on  the  previous 
demands,  and  consisted  of  two  for  a  year  each  and  two  for  three  years 
each,  the   last   being  extended  up  to    181 5,  when  a   settlement  was 
effected  for  five  years.     No  records  exist  of  the  subsequent  arrange- 
ments till  the  first  regular  settlement  was  made  between  1835  and  1837. 
There  were  signs  of  the  coming  competition  for  land,  but  rents  were 
still  mostly  in  kind.     The  assessment  was  based  on  rates  ascertained 
by   converting   average   produce    at    market   values,    the   rates    being 
modified  according  to  the  condition  of  villages.     A  large  part  of  the 
District  had  formed  the  jagir  of  the  Begam  Sumru,  which  lapsed  in 
1836.     Her  system  had  been  one  of  rackrent,  qualified  by  an  intimate 
knowledge  of  the  cultivators  and  liberal  advances.     The  total  demand 
fixed  for  the  whole  District  was  18-3  lakhs.     The  second  settlement 
was  made  between  1865  and  1870,  when  the  demand  was  raised  to 
21-8  lakhs,  though  the  share  of  the  rental  'assets'  taken  had  been 
reduced  from  70  to  50  per  cent.     In  this  settlement,  also,  rates  were 
calculated  on  produce,  having  regard  to  soil  classification.     The  last 
settlement  was  completed  in  1901.     It  was  based  on  the  rental  'assets,' 
but   involved  a  careful  soil  classification  and  the   fixing  of  standard 
circle  rates,  which  were  of  special  importance,  as  nearly  half  of  the  area 
was    not    subject   to  cash    rents,  most   of  it   being   under  proprietary 


26: 


MEERUT  DISTRICT 


cultivation.  A  very  minute  analysis  of  the  rents  actually  paid  was  thus 
required,  and  the  proportionate  rental  value  of  different  soils  was 
ascertained.  The  rents  paid  by  occupancy  tenants  were  enhanced  in 
many  cases,  and  the  revenue  finally  fixed  was  29-9  lakhs,  representing 
48  per  cent,  of  the  corrected  rental  'assets.'  The  incidence  per  acre 
of  cultivation  is  Rs.  2-14,  being  the  highest  for  any  District  in  the 
Provinces.  It  varies  in  different  parts  from  Rs.  2  near  the  Ganges 
khadar  to  more  than  Rs.  4  in  the  west. 

The  collections  on  account  of  land  revenue  and  total  revenue  are 
shown  below,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1 880-1. 

1 890- 1. 

1 900-1. 

1903-4- 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

22,25 
27,04 

22,11 
34>°° 

26,30 
4°,57 

27.95 
44,21 

Besides  the  five  municipalities,  Meerut,  Ghaziakad,  Hapur,  Sar- 
dhana,  and  Mawana,  four  other  towns  which  were  formerly  municipali- 
ties became  '  notified  areas '  in  April,  1 904.  There  are  also  eighteen 
towns  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856.  Beyond  the  limits  of  these 
places,  local  affairs  are  managed  by  the  District  board,  which  has  an 
income  of  more  than  2  lakhs.  In  1903-4  the  expenditure  amounted 
to  2-6  lakhs,  of  which  i-i  lakhs  was  spent  on  roads  and  buildings. 

The  District  Superintendent  of  police  is  aided  by  an  assistant  and 
six  inspectors.  There  are  160  other  officers  and  633  men  belonging  to 
the  regular  police,  439  municipal  and  town  police,  and  2,267  village 
and  road  police.  The  District  jail  contained  a  daily  average  of  574 
prisoners  in  1903. 

In  1 90 1  the  percentage  of  the  population  able  to  read  and  write 
was  3-1  (5-6  males  and  0-3  females),  which  is  exactly  the  Provincial 
average.  The  proportion  is,  however,  unduly  raised  by  the  consi- 
derable number  of  Jains,  Aryas,  and  Christians  in  the  District,  and 
is  distinctly  lower  in  the  case  of  Hindus  (2-7)  and  Muhamma- 
dans  (2).  In  1880-1  there  were  214  public  institutions  with  6,677 
pupils,  and  these  had  increased  to  248  institutions  with  9,849  pupils 
in  1900-1.  In  1903-4,  277  such  schools  contained  12,850  pupils, 
of  whom  550  were  girls;  and  there  were  besides  391  private  insti- 
tutions with  5,235  pupils.  Meerut  City  contains  an  Arts  college, 
a  normal  school,  and  three  high  schools.  Of  the  public  institutions, 
162  are  managed  by  the  District  or  municipal  boards  and  only  2  by 
Government.  About  half  the  total  expenditure  on  education  of 
Rs.  96,000  is  met  from  Local  and  municipal  funds,  and  a  quarter 
from  fees. 

In  1903  there  were  14  hospitals  and  dispensaries,  with  accommoda- 
tion for  183  in-patients.     In  the  same  year  134,000  cases  were  treated. 


MEERUT  CITY  263 

of  whom  1,839  were  in-patients,  and  10,214  operations  were  per- 
formed. The  expenditure  was  Rs.  19,000,  chiefly  met  from  Local  and 
municipal  funds. 

More  than  50,000  persons  were  successfully  vaccinated  in  1903-4, 
showing  a  rate  of  2>Z  Per  J)000  of  population.  Vaccination  is  compul- 
sory only  in  the  municipalities  and  in  the  cantonment  of  Meerut. 

[H.  R.  Nevill,  District  Gazetteer  (1904);  R.  W.  Gillan,  Settlement 
Report  (1901).] 

Meerut  Tahsil. — Central  northern  tahsll  of  Meerut  District,  United 
Provinces,  co-extensive  with  the  pargana  of  Meerut,  and  lying  between 
280  52'  and  290  14'  N.  and  770  27'  and  770  52'  E.,  with  an  area  of 
364  square  miles.  On  the  west  the  Hindan  divides  it  from  Baghpat 
and  part  of  the  Sardhana  tahsif,  but  other  boundaries  are  artificial. 
The  population  rose  from  326,054  in  1891  to  342,143  in  1901.  There 
are  280  villages  and  five  towns,  of  which  Meerut  (population,  1 18,129), 
the  District  and  tahsil  head-quarters,  and  La  war  (5,046)  are  the  most 
important.  In  1903-4  the  demand  for  land  revenue  was  Rs.  5,22,000, 
and  for  cesses  Rs.  87,000.  The  tahsil  has  the  highest  density  of 
population  (940  persons  per  square  mile)  in  the  District  (average  654), 
owing  to  the  inclusion  of  Meerut  city.  Along  the  Hindan  there  is 
a  narrow  stretch  of  khadar  which  is  liable  to  deterioration,  but  more 
than  half  the  tahsil  is  a  level  upland  of  first-class  soil.  The  eastern 
portion  is  intersected  by  the  East  Kali  Nadi  and  its  tributaries  the  two 
Chhoiyas  and  the  Abu  Nala,  which  flow  in  badly-defined  channels. 
The  channel  of  the  Kali  Nadi  has  been  deepened  and  straightened, 
and  other  cuts  have  been  made ;  but  the  drainage  is  still  defective,  and 
in  this  tract  cultivation  is  continually  interrupted  by  patches  of  reh. 
It  is  sandy  towards  the  north,  and  a  well-defined  sandy  ridge  strikes 
from  north  to  south  on  the  eastern  border.  Between  the  Hindan  and 
the  Kali  Nadi  the  Upper  Ganges  Canal  provides  ample  means  of 
irrigation ;  but  east  of  the  Kali  Nadi  the  villages  depend  chiefly  on 
wells,  most  of  which  are  of  masonry.  In  1903-4  the  area  under  culti- 
vation was  277  square  miles,  of  which   122  were  irrigated. 

Meerut  City. — Administrative  head-quarters  of  Meerut  District, 
United  Provinces,  and  military  cantonment,  situated  in  290  i'  N.  and 
770  43'  E.,  970  miles  by  rail  from  Calcutta  and  93 r  miles  by  rail  from 
Bombay.  The  city  is  the  seventh  largest  in  the  United  Provinces,  and 
its  population  has  risen  considerably  during  the  last  thirty  years.  The 
numbers  at  the  four  enumerations  were  as  follows:  (1872)  81,386, 
(1881)  99,565,  (1891)  119,390,  and  (1901)  118,129.  Tne  population 
in  1901  included  62,700  Hindus,  50,317  Muhammadans,  and  more 
than  4,000  Christians.  Of  the  total,  78,740  persons  reside  in  the 
municipality  and  39,389  in  cantonments. 

The  derivation  of  the  name  is  uncertain.     According  to  one  account 


264  MEERUT  CITY 

it  is  derived  from  an  architect  named  Mahl,  in  the  time  of  King 
Yudhishthira.  The  Jats  allege  that  it  was  founded  by  a  colony  of 
their  caste  belonging  to  the  Maharashtra  goira.  The  Asoka  pillar 
now  standing  on  the  Ridge  at  Delhi  was  removed  from  Meerut,  and 
remains  of  Buddhist  buildings  have  been  found  near  the  Jama  Masjid. 
Meerut  is  said  to  have  been  captured  early  in  the  eleventh  century 
by  Saiyid  Salar  Masud  ;  and  about  the  same  time  Har  Dat,  Raja 
of  Baran  (Bulandshahr),  built  a  fort  here,  which  was  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  in  Hindustan  for  its  strength.  The  fort  was  captured 
by  Kutb-ud-dln  in  1192,  and  all  the  Hindu  temples  were  converted 
into  mosques.  In  1327  a  Mongol  chief,  Tarmshirin  Khan,  made  an 
unsuccessful  attempt  on  the  city,  but  it  was  completely  sacked  and 
destroyed  by  Tlmur  in  1399.  Under  Mughal  rule  the  place  revived 
and  several  fine  buildings  were  erected.  The  brick  fort  is  mentioned 
in  the  Ain-i-Akbarl,  and  Akbar  struck  copper  coin  at  Meerut.  The 
troubled  times  of  the  eighteenth  century  were  unfavourable  to  the 
growth  of  towns  in  the  Upper.  Doab,  and  in  1805  Meerut  was  described 
as  'a  ruinous,  depopulated  town,  and  a  place  of  no  trade.'  In  1806 
cantonments  were  first  established,  and  population  grew  rapidly  to 
29,014  in  1847  and  82,035  m  J^53-  Meerut  obtained  an  unenviable 
notoriety  in  1857  as  the  spot  where  the  Mutiny  broke  out  in  Upper 
India.  Disquieting  rumours  had  been  abroad  for  some  time,  and 
in  April  the  troopers  of  the  3rd  Cavalry  refused  to  use  the  new 
cartridges.  On  May  9,  eighty-five  men  were  condemned  to  long  terms 
of  imprisonment ;  and  the  next  afternoon,  Sunday,  May  10,  a  cry  was 
raised  that  the  Europeans  were  going  to  seize  the  magazines  of  the 
native  infantry.  The  men  of  the  20th  Native  Infantry  took  up  arms, 
and  the  Mutiny  commenced.  Several  Europeans  were  shot  down  at 
once,  and  the  bad  characters  of  the  city  gathered  together,  armed  with 
any  weapons  they  could  find.  The  convicted  troopers  were  released 
from  jail  without  the  slightest  opposition  by  the  guards,  and  the  rest 
of  the  prisoners  broke  out.  The  infuriated  mob  of  sepoys,  police, 
hangers-on  about  the  bazars,  servants,  and  convicts  burned  and 
plundered  the  cantonments,  murdering  every  Christian  they  met.  In 
the  civil  station,  which  lies  some  distance  away,  nothing  was  known 
of  the  outbreak  until  close  on  7  p.m.,  when  the  people  going  to  church 
saw  the  blaze  of  burning  bungalows.  Even  the  native  troops  posted 
there  remained  steady  till  relieved.  The  British  troops  cantoned  near 
the  civil  lines  included  a  regiment  of  cavalry,  800  infantry,  and  a  large 
force  of  artillery  ;  but  nothing  was  done  by  the  superior  military 
authorities,  and  the  general  organization  was  defective.  Many  of  the 
Carabineers  could  not  ride,  and  there  was  a  want  of  horses.  Much 
time  was  wasted  in  a  roll-call,  and  when  the  sepoys'  lines  were  reached 
after  dark,  they  were  found  deserted.     No  pursuit  was  attempted,  and 


MEERUT  CITY  265 

the  mutineers  were  allowed  to  reach  Delhi  in  safety.  The  city  was, 
however,  held  throughout  the  disturbances,  and  was  the  base  of  a  small 
volunteer  force  known  as  the  Khaki  Risala,  which  helped  materially 
in  the  restoration  of  order. 

The  native  city  lies  south  of  the  cantonments  and  east  of  the  railway 
line.  The  streets  are  generally  of  mean  appearance,  and  are  badly 
arranged.  The  oldest  monuments  are  a  mausoleum  and  dargah  erected 
by  Kutb-ud-dfn  in  1194,  the  former  in  the  city,  and  the  latter  about 
a  mile  away  on  the  site  of  a  famous  temple  to  Nauchandi  Debl.  The 
Jama  Masjid  is  said  to  have  been  built  in  10 19  by  Hasan  MahdT, 
YVazir  of  Mahmud  of  Ghazni,  and  was  repaired  by  Humayun.  A  fine 
dargah  of  red  sandstone  was  erected  by  Nur  Jahan,  wife  of  the 
emperor  Jahanglr,  in  1628,  in  memory  of  a  fakir  named  Shah  Plr  ; 
and  there  are  some  other  seventeenth-century  mosques  and  tombs. 
The  great  tank  called  the  Suraj  Kund,  or  'sun  tank,' constructed  in 
1714,  is  surrounded  by  numerous  small  temples  and  sati  pillars. 

The  town  hall,  containing  the  Lyall  Library,  is  an  imposing  building, 
the  foundation-stone  of  which  was  laid  in  1884  by  the  Duke  of 
Connaught,  then  commanding  the  Meerut  military  district.  In  the 
cantonments  the  finest  building  is  the  church,  which  was  built  in  182 1, 
and  has  a  handsome  spire.  There  are  also  a  Roman  Catholic  church 
and  a  mission  chapel,  an  asylum  for  the  relief  of  distressed  European 
and  native  Christians,  and  a  club.  The  Mall  is  one  of  the  finest 
station  roads  in  India.  Besides  being  the  head-quarters  of  the  ordinary 
District  staff,  Meerut  is  the  residence  of  the  Commissioner  of  the 
Division  of  the  same  name,  Superintending  Engineers  of  both  the 
Roads  and  Buildings  and  Irrigation  branches  of  the  Public  Works 
department,  and  two  Executive  Engineers  in  charge  of  divisions  of 
the  Upper  Ganges  Canal.  The  Church  Missionary  Society  and  the 
American  Methodists  have  their  principal  stations  here,  besides  several 
branches  in  the  District. 

Meerut  was  constituted  a  municipality  in  1864.  During  the  ten 
years  ending  190 1  the  income  and  expenditure  averaged  about 
2-3  lakhs ;  but  the  receipts  include  a  loan  of  7!  lakhs  for  water- 
supply  in  1895,  and  the  expenditure  includes  the  cost  of  the  works 
and  an  annual  sum  on  account  of  capital  and  interest.  In  1003-4 
the  total  income  was  2-2  lakhs,  chiefly  derived  from  octroi  (1-4  lakhs) 
and  municipal  property,  fines,  &c.  (Rs.  41,000).  The  expenditure 
of  2-5  lakhs  included  :  general  administration  (Rs.  2,000),  collection  of 
taxes  (Rs.  31,000),  water-supply  (Rs.  21,000),  conservancy  (Rs.  21,000), 
public  safety  (Rs.  15,000),  and  repayment  of  loans  with  interest 
(Rs.  65,000).     A  house  tax  has  recently  been  sanctioned. 

The  water-works  were  completed  in  1896.  The  supply  is  taken 
from  the  Upper  Ganges  Canal,  9  miles  away,  at  a  place  called  Bhola. 


266  MEERUT  CITY 

The  engines  by  which  the  supply  is  raised  are  worked  by  turbines 
turned  by  the  water  in  the  canal  falls.  In  1903-4  the  daily  consump- 
tion of  water  amounted  to  between  4  and  5  gallons  per  head.  The 
drainage  of  the  city  is  good,  and  all  channels  have  been  lined  with 
masonry  and  the  whole  system  recast  within  the  last  few  years. 

The  normal  garrison  in  the  cantonments  consists  of  four  regiments 
of  British  and  Native  cavalry  and  infantry,  and  two  horse  and  two 
field  batteries.  The  income  of  cantonment  funds  in  1903-4  was  1-4 
lakhs,  and  the  expenditure  1-2  lakhs.  The  chief  taxes  are  octroi  and 
a  house  tax. 

The  prosperity  of  the  city  was  originally  due  to  the  presence  of 
a  large  cantonment,  and  the  population  was  in  fact  larger  in  1853  than 
in  1872.  The  extension  of  the  North-Western  Railway  in  1867  and 
1869,  however,  laid  the  foundation  of  a  more  extended  trade  than  the 
supply  of  local  needs.  In  1887  a  bonded  warehouse  was  opened  about 
a  mile  from  the  city  station,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  branch 
line,  and  8  or  9  lakhs  of  maunds  of  grain,  and  nearly  as  much  sugar, 
pass  through  this  every  year.  Cotton  cloth,  building  materials,  oilseeds, 
spices,  and  ghi  form  the  chief  imports.  Manufactures  are  not  yet  of 
much  importance,  but  there  are  a  large  soap  factory  and  a  flour-  and 
oil-mill.  An  important  agricultural  show  is  held  annually  near  the 
Nauchandi  temple,  a  mile  from  the  city.  The  exhibits  include  1,800 
horses,  besides  cattle,  agricultural  products  and  implements,  &:c. ;  and 
valuable  prizes  are  given. 

The  chief  educational  institutions  are  the  Meerut  College  and  the 
normal  school.  The  former  was  founded  in  1892  at  a  cost  of  2  lakhs 
raised  by  subscriptions,  and  receives  an  annual  grant  of  Rs.  8,000  from 
Government.  It  had  123  pupils  in  1903-4,  of  whom  15  were  reading 
for  a  degree  and  35  were  in  the  First  Arts  classes.  The  oldest  school 
belongs  to  the  Church  Missionary  Society  and  has  129  pupils.  There 
are  eight  other  secondary  schools  with  about  800  pupils,  and  four 
primary  schools  with  159  pupils,  of  whom  over  100  are  girls.  Among 
the  secondary  schools  may  be  mentioned  that  supported  by  the  Arya 
Samaj,  which  is  very  strong  here.  The  municipality  spends  about 
Rs.  10,000  annually  on  education. 

Meghasani. — Mountain  peak  in  Mayurbhanj,  one  of  the  Orissa 
Tributary  States,  Bengal,  situated  in  210  38'  N.  and  86°  21' E.  Its 
height  is  3,824  feet ;  there  is  a  plateau  on  the  top  of  the  hill. 

Meghna,  The. — Great  estuary  of  the  Bengal  delta,  which  conveys  to 
the  sea  the  main  volume  of  the  waters  of  both  the  Ganges  and  the 
Brahmaputra,  and  thus  forms  the  outlet  for  the  drainage  of  half 
India.  The  name  is  properly  applied  only  to  the  channel  of  the  old 
Brahmaputra,  from  Bhairab  Bazar  downwards,  after  it  has  received  the 
Surma  or  Barak  from  Sylhet,  in  240  2'  N.  and  900  59'  E. ;  but  some 


THE  MEGHNA  207 

maps  mark  the  head-waters  of  the  Meghna  as  a  small  stream  mean- 
dering through  the  centre  of  Mymensingh  District,  and  joining  the 
Brahmaputra  near  Bhairab  Bazar.  At  the  present  time  the  main 
streams  of  the  Brahmaputra  or  Jamuna,  and  of  the  Ganges,  unite  at 
Goalundo  in  Eastern  Bengal,  and,  under  the  name  of  the  Padma,  enter 
the  estuary  of  the  Meghna  opposite  Chandpur.  The  Meghna  proper 
runs  almost  due  south,  and  forms  the  boundary  between  the  Dacca 
Division  to  the  west  and  the  Chittagong  Division.  It  nowhere  flows 
between  clearly  defined  banks  ;  and  it  enters  the  sea  in  220  25'  N.  and 
910  16'  E.,  after  a  course  of  161  miles,  by  four  principal  mouths,  en- 
closing the  islands  of  Dakhin  Shahbazpur,  Hatia,  and  Sandwip. 

The  general  characteristics  of  the  Meghna  are  everywhere  the  same 
— a  mighty  rolling  flood  of  great  depth  and  velocity,  sometimes  split 
up  into  half  a  dozen  channels  by  sandbanks  of  its  own  formation, 
sometimes  spreading  out  into  a  wide  expanse  of  water  which  the  eye 
cannot  see  across.  It  is  navigable  by  native  boats  of  the  largest  bur- 
den, and  also  by  river  steamers  all  the  year  round  ;  but  navigation  is 
difficult  and  sometimes  dangerous.  At  low  tide  the  bed  is  obstructed 
by  shifting  sandbanks  and  snags  ;  and  when  the  tide  is  high  or  the 
river  is  in  flood,  and  especially  when  the  monsoon  is  blowing,  the 
surface  often  becomes  too  boisterous  for  heavy-laden  river  craft  to  ride 
in  safety.  The  most  favourable  season  for  navigation  is  between 
November  and  February ;  but  even  in  those  months  the  native  boatman 
fears  to  continue  his  voyage  after  nightfall.  Alluvion  and  diluvion  are 
constantly  taking  place,  especially  along  the  sea-board,  where  the 
antagonistic  forces  of  river  and  ocean  are  ever  engaged  in  the  process 
of  land-making.  In  Noakhali  District  the  mainland  is  steadily  ad- 
vancing seawards ;  while  the  islands  fringing  the  mouth  are  annually 
being  cut  away  and  re-deposited  in  fresh  shapes.  For  some  years  past 
the  Meghna  has  shown  a  tendency  to  shift  its  main  channel  gradually 
towards  the  west. 

The  tidal  phenomena  of  the  Meghna  surpass  those  of  any  other 
Indian  river.  The  regular  rise  of  the  tide  is  from  10  to  18  feet ;  and 
at  spring-tides  the  sea  rushes  up  in  a  single  wave,  known  as  the  '  bore.' 
On  the  Meghna  the  bore  is  no  mere  spectacle  for  admiration,  but  a 
justly  dreaded  danger  to  boatmen.  It  may  be  witnessed  in  its  greatest 
development  at  the  time  of  the  equinoxes,  when  navigation  is  some- 
times impeded  for  days  together,  especially  when  the  wind  blows  from 
the  south.  Before  anything  can  be  seen,  a  noise  like  thunder  is  heard 
seawards  in  the  far  distance.  Then  the  tidal  wave  suddenly  comes 
into  view,  advancing  like  a  wall  topped  with  foam,  of  the  height  ot 
nearly  20  feet,  and  moving  at  the  rate  of  15  miles  an  hour.  In  a  few 
minutes  all  is  over,  and  the  brimming  river  has  at  once  changed  from 
ebb  to  flood-tide. 

vol.  xvn.  s 


268  THE  MEGHNA 

A  still  greater  danger  than  the  bore  is  the  storm-wave  which  occasion- 
ally sweeps  up  the  Meghna  in  the  wake  of  cyclones.  These  storm- 
waves  also  are  most  liable  to  occur  at  the  break  of  the  monsoons  in 
May  and  October.  In  the  cyclone  of  May,  1867,  the  island  of  Hatia 
was  entirely  submerged  by  a  wave  which  is  estimated  to  have  reached  a 
height  of  40  feet.  But  the  greatest  of  these  disasters  within  the  memory 
of  man  occurred  on  the  night  of  October  31,  1876.  Towards  evening 
of  that  day  the  wind  had  gradually  risen  till  it  blew  a  gale.  Suddenly, 
at  about  midnight  in  some  places,  and  nearer  dawn  in  others,  the  roar 
of  the  bore  was  heard  drowning  the  noises  of  the  storm.  Two  and 
three  waves  came  on  in  succession,  flooding  in  one  moment  the  entire 
country,  and  sweeping  before  them  every  living  thing  that  was  not 
lucky  enough  to  reach  a  point  of  vantage.  The  destruction  of  human 
life  on  that  memorable  night  is  credibly  estimated  at  100,000  souls  in 
the  mainland  portion  of  Noakhali  District  and  on  the  islands  of  Sand- 
wip  and  Hatia,  or  about  19  per  cent,  of  the  total  population  of  these 
places.  As  usually  happens  in  such  cases,  the  mortality  subsequently 
caused  by  cholera  and  a  train  of  dependent  diseases  equalled  that 
due  directly  to  drowning. 

[A  full  account  of  this  calamity  will  be  found  in  the  Report  on  the 
Vizagapatam  and  Backer  gunge  Cyclones,  1876.] 

Mehar  Subdivision. — Subdivision  of  Larkana  District,  Sind, 
Bombay,  composed  of  the  Mehar,  Nasirabad,  and  Kakar  talukas. 

Mehar. —  Tdluka  of  Larkana  District,  Sind,  Bombay,  lying  between 
2 70  2'  and  270  21'  N.  and  670  30'  and  68°  8'  E.,  with  an  area  of  328 
square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  58,434,  compared  with 
48,320  in  1 89 1.  The  tdluka  contains  64  villages,  of  which  Mehar  is 
the  head-quarters.  The  density,  178  persons  per  square  mile,  greatly 
exceeds  the  District  average.  The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  2-8  lakhs.  The  tdluka  is  irrigated  by  the  Western  Nara 
and  one  of  its  feeders,  the  staple  crops  being  jowdr  and  rice.  Prior 
to  the  floods  of  1874  Mehar  was  very  fertile,  but  the  water  has  now 
become  brackish  and  all  the  gardens  have  perished.  Cultivation  near 
the  hills  on  the  west  depends  entirely  upon  the  rainfall. 

Meherpur  Subdivision.— Northern  subdivision  of  Nadia  District, 
Bengal,  lying  between  230  36'  and  240  1 i'  N.  and  88°  18'  and  88°  53'  E., 
with  an  area  of  632  square  miles.  The  subdivision  is  a  deltaic  tract, 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Jalangi ;  a  considerable  portion  con- 
sists of  a  low-lying  tract  of  black  clay  soil.  The  population  increased 
from  336,716  in  1891  to  348,124  in  1901,  the  density  being  551 
persons  per  square  mile.  The  subdivision  contains  the  town  of 
Meherpur  (population,  5,766),  the  head-quarters;  and  607  villages. 

Meherpur  Town  {Mik?pur).—- Head-quarters  of  the  subdivision  of 
the  same  name  in  Nadia  District,  Bengal,  situated  in  230  47'  N.  and 


ME  HID  PUR    TOWN  269 

88°  38'  E.,  on  the  Bhairab  river.  Population  (1901),  5,766.  Meherpur 
was  constituted  a  municipality  in  1869.  The  income  during  the  decade 
ending  1901-2  averaged  Rs.  4,400,  and  the  expenditure  Rs.  3,500. 
In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  3,900,  half  of  which  was  obtained  from 
a  tax  on  persons ;  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  3,800.  The  town  con- 
tains the  usual  public  offices;  the  sub-jail  has  accommodation  for  13 
prisoners.  The  Church  Missionary  Society  has  a  branch  at  Meherpur. 
Good  bell-metal  ware  is  manufactured. 

Mehidpur  Zila. — District  of  the  Indore  State,  Central  India,  lying 
between  23°5/  and  230  48"  N.  and  750  32'  and  760  35'  E.,  in  the  Sondh- 
wara  division  of  Malwa,  with  an  area  of  840  square  miles.  It  con- 
sists of  two  separate  sections  :  the  main  block,  and  the  Sundarsi  pargana 
which  lies  south-east  of  the  former.  The  country  is  typical  of  Malwa, 
consisting  of  an  open  undulating  plain  covered  with  black  cotton  soil. 
It  is  watered  by  the  Sipra,  Kali  Sind,  and  ChhotI  Kali  Sind,  and  has  an 
annual  rainfall  of  25  inches.  The  population  decreased  from  120,869 
in  1891  to  91,857  in  1901,  giving  a  density  in  the  latter  year  of  109 
persons  per  square  mile.  The  District  contains  two  towns,  Mehidpur 
(population,  6,681),  the  head-quarters,  and  Tarana  (4,490);  and  432^ 
villages.  The  one-third  village  is  due  to  the  curious  tripartite  possession 
of  Sundarsi  by  the  Gwalior,  Dhar,  and  Indore  Darbars,  each  State 
having  an  equal  portion  of  the  place. 

For  administrative  purposes  the  district  is  divided  into  five  parganas, 
with  head-quarters  at  Mehidpur,  Jharda,  Tarana,  Makron,  and  Sundarsi, 
each  in  charge  of  an  amin,  while  the  whole  is  in  charge  of  a  Subah, 
whose  head-quarters  are  at  Mehidpur.  The  total  revenue  is  4-8  lakhs. 
The  principal  routes  lead  to  Nagda  on  the  Ujjain-Ratlam  and  Tarana 
Road  on  the  Ujjain-Bhopal  Railways.  The  Nagda-Muttra  branch  of 
the  Bombay,  Baroda,  and  Central  India  Railway,  now  under  con- 
struction, will  pass  through  Godapur,  10  miles  from  Mehidpur. 
Metalled  roads  run  from  Tarana  to  Sumrakhera  and  from  Mehidpur 
to  Patparsi,  and  a  portion  of  the  Ujjain-Agar  high  road  also  traverses 
the  district.     Several  new  roads  are  under  construction. 

Mehidpur  Town  (also  Mahatpur  or  Mahidpur). — Head-quarters  of 
the  district  and  pargana  of  the  same  name  in  Indore  State,  Central 
India,  situated  in  230  29'  N.  and  750  40'  E.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
sacred  Sipra  river,  24  miles  north  of  Ujjain,  1,543  feet  above  sea-level. 
Population  (1901),  6,681.  The  town  is  divided  into  two  separate 
sections,  known  as  the  kila  or  fort  and  the  purwa  or  hamlet.  The 
kila  is  an  isolated  quarter,  surrounded  by  a  bastioned  stone  wall,  and 
situated  on  the  river  bank.  It  was  built  in  the  eighteenth  century  by 
the  Vagh  Saranjami  sardars,  locally  known  as  the  Vagh  Rajas.  Its 
streets  are  dark  and  narrow,  with  tall  stone  houses  on  either  side, 
often  ornamented  by  graceful  balconies  and  windows  of  carved  wood. 

s  2 


270  MEHIDPUR    TOWN 

Throughout  the  kila  and  on  the  ghats  along  its  western  front  are 
numerous  remains  of  Hindu  temples,  destroyed  during  the  Muhamma- 
dan  occupation.  The  purwa  is  also  enclosed  by  a  stone  wall,  and. 
though  formerly  a  place  of  importance,  is  entirely  lacking  in  buildings 
of  merit  or  interest.  To  the  east  stands  the  tomb  of  Godar  Shah, 
a  Muhammadan  saint,  from  which  a  fine  view  of  the  town  and  river 
and  the  surrounding  country  is  obtained.  To  the  south,  along  the 
steep  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  lie  the  remains  of  the  old  cantonment, 
with  its  long  avenue  of  lofty  Millingtonias  and  the  remains  of  the 
picturesquely  situated  bungalows ;  to  the  west  stands  the  panva 
with  the  kila  beyond  it,  and  across  the  stream  a  wide  open  plain, 
the  field  of  the  battle  referred  to  below. 

Mehidpur  is  supposed  by  Hindus  to  stand  in  the  Mahakalban  or 
great  sacred  forest  of  Mahakal,  which  is  said  to  have  formerly  covered 
all  the  country  round  Ujjain.  From  this  circumstance  it  derives  special 
sanctity;  and  in  1897,  when  cholera  interfered  with  the  attendance  at 
the  great  Sinhast  religious  fair  at  Ujjain,  about  5,000  sadhus  performed 
their  ablutions  in  the  Sipra  at  Mehidpur  instead.  After  the  occupation 
of  Malwa  by  the  Muhammadans,  it  was  renamed  Muhammadpur  and 
appears  under  that  name  in  local  documents,  and  in  the  Ain-i-Akbari, 
where  it  is  shown  as  the  chief  town  of  a  mahal  in  the  Sarangpur  sarkar 
of  the  Subah  of  Malwa.  This  name,  however,  has  never  come  into 
general  use.  About  1740  it  was  assigned  as  a  saranjaml  jagir  by 
Malhar  Rao  Holkar  I  to  his  feudatories  the  so-called  Vagh  Rajas, 
who  until  181 7,  when  Malhar  Rao  II  confiscated  their  holding,  virtually 
ruled  this  part  of  Malwa.  The  descendant  of  the  Vagh  Rajas  still 
lives  in  the  fort  and  holds  a  small  grant  of  land. 

About  2  miles  to  the  south-west  across  the  river  the  battle-field  of 
Mehidpur  is  still  marked  by  a  small  cemetery,  containing  the  graves 
of  nine  officers  who  fell  on  that  occasion.  Sir  John  Malcolm,  who 
commanded  the  forces  engaged  in  this  battle,  arrived  at  Gannia  village, 
20  miles  south  of  Mehidpur,  on  December  19,  181 7.  On  the  morning 
of  the  20th  Tulsi  Bai  was  murdered  by  Ghafur  Khan,  and  all  negotia- 
tions fell  through.  Malcolm  then  pushed  on  along  the  right  bank  of 
the  Sipra.  The  enemy  were  drawn  up  on  the  left  bank,  so  as  to  form 
the  chord  of  a  bend  in  the  stream.  The  river  was  forded  under  a  heavy 
fire  and  the  position  carried  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet.  Except  the 
artillerymen,  who,  as  usual,  stood  to  their  guns  till  they  were  bayoneted, 
Holkar's  troops  offered  no  effective  resistance.  The  losses,  which  were 
entirely  due  to  the  fire  of  Holkar's  guns,  amounted  to  174  killed, 
including  9  British  officers,  and  606  wounded.  Malcolm  moved  on  to 
Mandasor,  where  a  treaty  with  Holkar  was  signed  on  January  6,  1818. 

Mehidpur  was  selected  as  a  station  for  the  Mehidpur  Contingent 
raised   under  the  treaty  of  181 8,  and  remained  a  military  station  till 


MEH.UA/K4BAJ)    TALUK  A  271 

1882.  On  November  8,  1857,  the  troops  were  attacked  by  a  number 
of  Rohillas  from  the  town,  the  Muhammadans  in  the  Contingent  join- 
ing with  the  mutineers.  Two  British  officers  were  killed,  the  European 
sergeant  escaping  to  Indore,  escorted  by  some  Hindu  troops  of  the 
corps.  After  the  Mutiny,  Mehidpur  became  the  head-quarters  of 
the  Western  Malwa  Political  Charge  until  i860,  when  they  were  trans- 
ferred to  Agar. 

Trade  is  declining  for  want  of  good  communications,  though  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  poppy  is  grown  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  crude 
opium  is  sent  to  Ujjain  for  manufacture.  A  municipality  has  recently 
been  constituted.  Mehidpur  contains  the  zila  and  pargana  offices,  a 
British  post  office,  several  schools,  a  hospital,  and  an  inspection  bungalow. 

Mehkar  Taluk. — Southern  taluk  of  Buldana  District,  Berar,  lying 
between  190  52'  and  200  25'  N.  and  760  2'  and  760  52'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  1,008  square  miles.  The  population  fell  from  153,046  in  1891  to 
120,792  in  1901,  the  density  in  the  latter  year  being  120  persons 
per  square  mile.  The  taluk  contains  313  villages  and  one  town, 
Mehkar  (population,  5,330),  the  head-quarters.  The  demand  for  land 
revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  2,73,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  21,000.  The 
taluk  lies  in  the  Balaghat,  in  the  south-western  corner  of  Berar ;  but 
the  valleys  of  the  Penganga  and  the  southern  Puma,  which  traverse 
it,  contain  fertile  tracts. 

Mehkar  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name  in 
Buldana  District,  Berar,  situated  in  200  io'  N.  and  760  37'  E.  Popu- 
lation (1901),  5,330.  According  to  a  legend,  it  takes  its  name  from 
Meghan  Kara,  a  demon  who  was  overpowered  and  slain  by  Sarangdhar, 
an  incarnation  of  Vishnu.  A  Muhammadan  poet  informs  us  that  Mehkar 
is  795  years  older  than  the  Hijrl  era.  A  fine  specimen  of  a  Hemad- 
panti  temple  is  situated  here.  Mehkar  is  mentioned  in  the  Atn-i- 
Akbari.  as  the  head-quarters  of  a  sarkar,  or  revenue  district.  In  1769 
Madhu  Rao  Peshwa,  accompanied  by  Rukn-ud-daula,  the  Nizam's 
minister,  encamped  here  with  the  intention  of  punishing  Janoji 
Bhonsla,  who  had  assisted  Raghunath  Rao's  insurrection.  General 
Doveton  also  encamped  here  in  18 17  on  his  march  to  Nagpur  against 
Appa  Sahib  Bhonsla,  who  had  broken  the  Treaty  of  Deogaon.  Mehkar 
formerly  contained  many  weavers,  Hindu  and  Muhammadan.  The 
latter  were  so  rich  that  they  not  only  undertook  to  fortify  the  place, 
but  could  afford  to  build  up  the  fallen  rampart,  as  appears  from  an 
inscription  dated  1488  on  the  Mumins'  Gate,  still  standing.  Pindari 
inroads  reduced  the  town  to  great  distress,  and  its  ruin  was  completed 
by  the  great  famine  of  1803,  after  which  only  50  huts  remained 
inhabited.  Excellent  dhotis  were  formerly  woven  at  Mehkar,  but  the 
cheapness  of  European  fabrics  has  lessened  the  demand  for  these. 

Mehmadabad   Taluka.—  North-western   taluka  of  Kaira  District. 


272  MEHMADABAD   taluk  a 

Bombay,  lying  between  22°  44'  and  22°  55'  N.  and  720  36'  and 
7 20  57'  E.,  with  an  area  of  171  square  miles.  It  contains  66  villages 
and  two  towns,  Mehmadabad  (population,  8,166),  the  head-quarters, 
and  Kaira  (10,392),  the  District  head-quarters.  The  population  in  1901 
was  75,926,  compared  with  92,367  in  1891.  The  density,  444  persons 
per  square  mile,  is  almost  equal  to  the  District  average.  The  land 
revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  nearly  2-4  lakhs.  The 
tahtka  consists  of  a  rich  level  plain,  mostly  open  and  thinly  wooded. 
The  land  is  poor,  light,  and  sandy,  but  a  portion  is  suited  for  rice 
cultivation.  The  Meshvo  and  Vatrak  are  shallow  streams  running 
south-west. 

Mehmadabad  Town  [Mahmudabdd). — Head-quarters  of  the  tahtka 
of  the  same  name  in  Kaira  District,  Bombay,  situated  in  220  50'  N. 
and  7  20  46'  E.,  on  the  Bombay,  Baroda,  and  Central  India  Railway, 
17  miles  south  of  Ahmadabad.  Population  (1901),  8,166.  It  was 
founded  in  1479  by  Mahmud  Begara,  who  ruled  in  Gujarat  from 
1459  to  151 1,  and  improved  by  Mahmud  III  (1537-54),  who  built  a  deer- 
park  with  an  enclosure  6  miles  long.  At  each  corner  of  the  park  was 
a  palace  with  gilded  walls  and  roof.  On  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
gates  leading  to  the  palaces  were  placed  bazars.  Of  the  existing 
objects  of  interest,  the  most  notable  are  two  tombs  in  the  village  of 
Sojale,  about  2  miles  to  the  north-east  of  the  town,  built  in  1484  in 
honour  of  Mubarak  Saiyid,  one  of  the  ministers  of  Mahmud  Begara, 
and  of  his  wife's  brothers.  Mehmadabad  has  been  a  municipality 
since  1863,  with  an  average  income  of  Rs.  9,500  during  the  decade  end- 
ing 1 901.  In  1903-4  its  income  was  Rs.  9,600.  The  town  contains 
a  dispensary  and  four  schools,  three  (including  an  English  middle 
school  with  57  pupils)  for  boys  and  one  for  girls,  attended  by  427  and 
102  pupils  respectively. 

Mehndawal. — Town  '  in  the  Khalllabad  tahsll  of  Bastl  District, 
United  Provinces,  situated  in  260  59'  N.  and  830  7'  E.,  27  miles 
north-east  of  Bastl  town.  Population  (1901),  10,143.  Mehndawal 
is  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about 
Rs.  1,000.  It  is  the  chief  commercial  centre  in  the  District,  being 
a  great  mart  for  trade  with  Nepal ;  but  it  has  suffered  from  the  open- 
ing of  railway  stations  elsewhere.  Most  of  the  town  consists  of  mud 
hovels,  but  there  are  several  fine  market-places.  It  also  contains 
a  dispensary  and  a  school  with  88  pupils. 

Mehsana  Taluka. — Tahtka  in  the  Kadi  flrant,  Baroda  State,  with 
an  area  of  195  square  miles.  The  population  fell  from  83,651  in  1891 
to  75,254  in  1901.  The  taluka  contains  one  town,  Mehsana  (popula- 
tion, 9,393),  the  head-quarters;  and  83  villages.  Its  aspect  is  some- 
times that  of  an  even  plain,  sometimes  that  of  a  gently  undulating 
country.    The  Rupen  and  Khari  flow  through  the  northern  portion. 


MEHWAS  ESTATES  273 

The  surface  soil  is  generally  light  and  sandy.  In  1904-5  the  land 
revenue  was  Rs.  2,51,000. 

Mehsana  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluka  of  the  same  name, 
Kadi  pnint,  Baroda  State,  situated  in  23^2'  X.  and  720  37'  E.  Popu- 
lation (1901),  9.393.  The  town  is  chiefly  important  as  a  railway  centre, 
for  here  the  Gaikwar's  State  railways  from  Kheralu,  Patau,  and  Viram- 
gam  converge  to  meet  the  main  line  of  the  Rajputana  Malwa.  Railway. 
It  is  the  most  central  town  in  the  prdnt,  and  in  1904  became  the  head- 
quarters in  place  of  Kadi.  A  magnificent  building,  which  forms  a  con- 
spicuous object  close  to  the  town,  has  recently  been  erected,  partly  for 
the  purposes  of  public  offices  and  partly  as  a  palace  for  the  (iaikwar. 
Otherwise  there  are  no  buildings  of  any  great  mark.  Mehsana  is 
administered  by  a  municipality,  receiving  an  annual  grant  of  Rs.  4,700. 
It  possesses  Anglo-vernacular  and  vernacular  schools,  a  dispensary, 
a  magistrate's  court,  and  local  offices. 

Mehwas  Estates.— A  group  of  six  estates  in  the  West  Khandesh 
District  of  Bombay,  lying  between  210  30''  and  220  N.  and  740  10'  and 
740  50'  E.,  in  the  extreme  west  of  Khandesh,  situated  partly  among  the 
western  extremities  of  the  Satpuras,  and  partly  on  the  low  ground  below 
the  hills,  spanning  the  interval  between  the  Narbada  and  Tapti  rivers. 
Population  (1901),  14,639.  The  estimated  gross  yearly  revenue  is 
Rs.  70,000.  The  tract  is  broken  and  wild,  and  more  or  less  covered 
with  forest ;  it  is  abundantly  watered  by  mountain  streams  flowing 
into  the  Narbada  and  Tapti.  The  climate  is  unhealthy  and  feverish 
from  October  to  March.  The  estates  are  inhabited  chiefly  by  Bhlls, 
with  a  sprinkling  of  Pavras.  In  all  parts  there  is  a  great  deal  of  rich 
black  soil,  but  cultivation  has  much  decreased  since  the  famine  of  1900. 
As  the  supply  of  grain  does  not  meet  the  local  demand,  the  people  eke 
out  a  living  on  fruits,  roots,  and  other  forest  produce.  The  main 
articles  of  trade  are  timber,  mahua  flowers  and  seed,  and  myrabolams. 
The  chieftains  settle  petty  cases,  but  all  important  matters  go  before 
the  Collector  and  Assistant  Collector,  who  are  respectively  Agent  and 
Assistant  Agent.  Civil  and  criminal  justice  are  regulated  by  rules 
framed  under  Act  XI  of  1846.     The  six  estates  are: — 


I".  states. 

Chikhli     . 

Kathi 

Raisingpur 

Singpur    . 

Nala 

Nawalpur 

Total 

Area  in 
square  miles. 

Number  of 
villages. 

Population. 
1901. 

Gross 

receipts. 

Tribute  paid 
to  Government. 

200 

500 

200 

20 

23 
20 

3S 
96 

So 

4 
6 

5 

3,579 

7,789 

2?25S 

23  a 

-'57 

Rs. 

T5,8i3 

22,298 

19.706 

8.129 

3,440 

645 

Rs. 
133 

963                     229 

14639 

70.031 

133 

-74 


MEHWAS  ESTATES 


The  ancestors  of  the  Chikhli  chieftain  originally  held  lands  from 
RajpTpla  :  Jiva,  the  founder  of  the  family,  taking  advantage  of  the 
turbulent  times,  established  his  power  over  84  villages.  A  sum  of 
Rs.  3,000,  assigned  by  Government  as  an  hereditary  allowance,  made 
mainly  for  foot  and  horse  police  in  lieu  of  the  blackmail  formerly 
levied,  was  discontinued  in  the  time  of  Ramsing  (1854-74).  The 
ancestors  of  the  Raisingpur  (Gauli)  chieftain  were  feudatories  of 
Rajplpla,  and  are  said  to  have  been  ruined  on  its  subversion  by  the 
Gaikwar  (1 763-1813).  The  remaining  four  chieftains  were  originally 
dependants  of  the  chief  of  Budhawal  ;  but  in  1 845  the  latter  was 
removed  on  suspicion  of  conniving  at  robberies  in  the  neighbouring 
British  territories,  and  his  lands  have  since  lapsed  to  Government. 

Meiktila  Division.— South-eastern  Division  of  Upper  Burma,  lying 
wholly  in  the  dry  zone,  between  190  27'  and  220  i'  N.  and  940  43'  and 
960  54'  E.,  with  an  area  of  10,852  square  miles.  It  comprises  four 
Districts :  Kyaukse,  Meiktila,  Yamethin,  and  Myingyan.  Kyaukse, 
Meiktila,  and  Yamethin  lie,  one  south  of  the  other  in  the  order  named, 
on  each  side  of  the  Mandalay-Rangoon  railway,  while  Myingyan 
extends  westwards  from  the  borders  of  Kyaukse  and  Meiktila  to  the 
Irrawaddy.  The  Division  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Mandalay  and 
Sagaing  ;  on  the  east  by  the  Southern  Shan  States  ;  on  the  south  by 
Toungoo  and  Magwe ;  and  on  the  west  by  Minbu,  Pakokku,  and 
Sagaing.  The  population  was  901,924  in  1891  and  992,807  in  1901. 
The  distribution  in  the  latter  year  is  shown  in  the  following  table  : — 


District. 

Area  in 
square  miles. 

Population. 

Land  revenue 

and  thathameda, 

«903-4> 

in  thousands 

of  rupees. 

Kyaukse    . 
Meiktila     . 
Yamethin  . 
Myingyan  . 

Total 

J, 274 

2,183 
4,258 

3,  '37 

MI,253 

2.-2,305 

243-I97 
356,052 

8,62 

5»I3 

5,20 
6,68 

10,852 

992,807 

25,63 

There  are  4,415  villages  and  6  towns:  Myingyan  (population, 
16,139),  Pyinmana  in  Yamethin  District  (14,388),  Yamethin  (8,680), 
Meiktila  (7,203),  Nyaungo-Pagan  (6,254),  and  Kyaukse  (5,420). 
The  head-quarters  are  at  Meiktila,  situated  near  the  centre  of  the 
Division,  and  connected  by  rail  with  the  three  outlying  District  head- 
quarters. Myingyan  is  a  commercial  centre  of  some  importance,  and 
Yamethin  and  Pyinmana  are  trade  centres.  The  population  is  almost 
exclusively  Burmese,  the  total  number  of  Burmans  in  1901  being 
963,228.  The  only  other  indigenous  races  found  in  any  strength  are 
the  Shans,  inhabiting  the  hills  on  the  borders  of  the  Shan  States,  who 


ME  IK  TIL  A    DISTRICT  275 

numbered   2,071    at  the   last   Census,  and    the    Karens    (2,718),   who 

approach  their  northernmost  limit  in  Burma  proper  in  the  Yamethin 

hills.     There  were   14,536  Musalmans  and  5,143  Hindus  in   1901,  of 

whom  the  greater  number,  though  not  all,  were  natives  of  India. 

Meiktila   District. — District    in    the    Meiktila    Division  of  Upper 

Burma,  lying  between  2o°40/and  2i°25/N.  and  95°28'and  96°35'E., 

with  an  area  of  2,183  square  miles.     It  is  the  most  easterly  of  the 

Districts  forming  the  dry  zone  of  Burma,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north 

by  the  Districts  of  Kyaukse  and  Myingyan  :  on  the  south  by  Yamethin 

and  Magwe ;  on  the  east  by  various  small  States  of  the  Myelat  division 

of  the   Southern   Shan   States  ;   and   on    the   west    by  Myingyan    and 

Magwe.     The  District  slopes  generally  from  west  to 

east  until  the  Samon  river  is  reached,  after  which  it 

aspects. 

gradually  rises  again  to  meet  the  flanks  of  the  outer- 
most Shan  hills.  The  central  portion  of  the  western  boundary  runs 
along  the  crest  of  a  ridge  of  moderate  altitude,  with  parallel  ridges  of 
lesser  height  on  either  side.  Here  the  ground  is  rocky  and  boulder- 
strewn,  and  the  vegetation  scanty,  consisting  mainly  of  stunted 
trees  and  scrub.  To  the  north  and  south  of  these  ridges  the  country 
in  the  west,  though  still  high,  becomes  flatter,  and  for  a  considerable 
distance  east  of  the  border  the  District  is  scored  from  north  to  south 
by  deep  watercourses  with  precipitous  sides.  The  Mahlaing  town- 
ship, occupying  the  north-western  quarter,  has  an  undulating  surface, 
characterized  by  ridges  running  north  and  south.  It  has  few  level 
plains,  and  the  valleys  are  often  so  narrow  that  the  fields  look  like 
a  winding  river  of  grain.  The  south-western  corner,  comprising  the 
Meiktila  township,  is  also  of  a  rolling  character,  though  here  the 
broken  ground  extends  to  a  greater  distance  from  the  western 
boundary  than  farther  north.  Bounding  the  Mahlaing  township  on 
the  east,  and  bisecting  the  District,  is  a  ridge  called  the  Minwin 
kondan,  extending  from  the  northern  boundary  of  the  District  to  a 
little  south  of  Meiktila  town.  The  town  of  Meiktila  itself  is  built  on 
this  ridge,  at  an  altitude  of  about  800  feet.  Nearly  parallel  to  the 
kondan  and  about  12  miles  distant  from  it  on  the  east  is  another  ridge, 
known  as  the  Pwemingyi  kondan  in  the  north,  and  the  Tetbyindaung 
in  the  south.  Both  ridges  have  a  gravelly  and  practically  uncultivable 
soil.  The  intervening  valley,  12  to  15  miles  in  width,  runs  the  whole 
length  of  the  District,  and  is  level  and  waterlogged  in  parts.  Low 
hills  and  stretches  of  rising  ground,  composed  in  part  of  nodular  lime- 
stone, are  met  with  here  and  there,  chiefly  on  the  west.  Meiktila  is 
almost  the  only  District  of  Burma  which  possesses  no  navigable  water- 
ways. Its  most  important  river  is  the  Samon,  which,  rising  in  Yamethin, 
enters  Meiktila  in  the  south-east  near  the  foot  of  the  Shan  hills,  and 
flows  due  north  into  Kyaukse.     It  is   not,  however,  navigable  within 


276  MEIKTILA    DISTRICT 

the  limits  of  the  District,  being  more  or  less  dry,  except  during  the 
rains.  Between  it  and  the  Pwemingyi  ridge  is  a  valley,  6  or  7  miles 
in  width,  which  gradually  rises  towards  the  south,  and  is  irrigated  by 
numerous  tanks.  The  Thinbon  chaung  rises  on  the  eastern  slopes  of 
L'opa,  flows  in  a  north-easterly  direction  through  the  Mahlaing  and 
Wundwin  townships,  and  falls  eventually  into  the  Samon  at  the  ex- 
treme northern  end  of  the  District.  Within  the  limits  of  Meiktila  the 
Panlaung  is  merely  a  mountain  brook. 

One  of  the  main  features  is  the  Meiktila  lake,  situated  on  the 
Minwin  ridge,  about  800  feet  above  sea-level.  This  artificial  stretch 
of  water  is  about  7  miles  long  and  3^  square  miles  in  extent,  and  at 
the  centre,  near  Meiktila,  is  so  narrow  as  to  be  practically  divided  into 
two  sections,  north  and  south.  The  northern  lake  is  diminishing  in 
capacity  yearly,  owing  to  the  deposit  of  silt  from  its  feeder  streams,  the 
Shanmange  and  the  Mondaing  ;  and  both  sections  are  subject  to  very 
rapid  rises  after  heavy  rain  over  their  area  of  supply.  Another  impor- 
tant piece  of  water  is  the  Nyaungyan-Minhla  tank  or  lake,  situated  near 
the  southern  border  of  the  District.  It  derives  its  water  from  the 
Chaunggauk  and  Chaungmagyi  streams,  both  of  which  rise  in  the  west, 
the  former  bounding  the  District  on  the  south,  the  latter  watering  a 
considerable  area  of  Yamethin  District.  The  Nyaungyan  and  Minhla 
tanks  were  originally  separated,  but  have  now  been  joined  by  a  canal. 

The  whole  of  the  District  is  occupied  by  rocks  of  Upper  Tertiary 
(pliocene)  age,  covered  to  a  great  extent  with  alluvium.  In  the  western 
portion  of  the  Mahlaing  township  the  abrupt  dip  of  the  strata,  visible 
to  the  naked  eye  by  reason  of  the  erosive  action  of  the  streams,  appears 
to  indicate  that  the  tract  has  been  the  scene  of  violent  volcanic  up- 
heavals, the  slopes  in  some  cases  being  not  less  than  700  to  8o°  from 
the  horizontal.  In  the  western  areas  the  trunks  of  large  petrified  trees 
are  found  in  the  alluvium,  and  in  some  cases  large  areas  are  strewn 
with  fragments  of  fossilized  wood. 

The  vegetation  of  the  District  resembles  that  of  Kyaukse.  In  the 
plains  it  is  of  a  very  dry  type ;  and  sparse  scrub  jungle,  with  cactus, 
tamarind,  cutch,  and  several  species  of  capers,  covers  the  greater 
part  of  the  non-cultivated  area.  On  the  hills  in  the  east  the  growth  is 
more  luxuriant,  and  the  bamboo  is  found.  Its  main  features  are 
described  under  the  head  of  Forests  below. 

Tigers,  bears,  bison,  elephants,  and  sdmbar  are  all  found,  but  only 
to  the  east  of  the  Samon  near  the  hills.  Leopards  are  said  to  be 
increasing  in  numbers.  Other  kinds  of  deer  besides  the  sambar  are 
shot  in  the  plains,  and  in  the  cold  season  ducks  and  snipe  are  plentiful. 
As  in  most  of  the  dry  zone  Districts,  snakes  (including  the  cobra,  the 
karait,  and  the  Russell's  viper)  are  very  common. 

Meiktila    lies    along    the    eastern   edge    of  the  dry  zone  of   Upper 


HISTORY  277 

Burma.  The  climate  is  dry  but  very  healthy,  except  in  the  tarai  east 
of  the  Samon  river,  where  malarial  fever  is  always  prevalent.  The 
cold  season  begins  in  November  and  ends  in  February,  while  the  hot 
season  lasts  from  February  to  June  and  the  rains  from  June  to  October. 
The  most  unhealthy  period  is  at  the  close  of  the  rains.  The  great  heat 
during  the  hot  months  is  tempered  by  high  winds,  which  blow  con- 
tinually from  the  south  and  south-west  from  March  to  May,  and  during 
a  large  portion  of  the  rainy  season  as  well,  and  the  daily  range  of 
temperature  is  considerable.  The  minimum  temperature  in  1902  was 
620  in  January,  while  the  maximum  was  1010  in  May,  and  the  mean  for 
the  year  was  730  minimum  and  890  maximum. 

The  rainfall  is  extremely  capricious  and  always  scanty.  Only  in 
three  years  since  annexation  (1886)  can  it  be  said  to  have  been  timely 
and  abundant.  Generally  speaking,  the  annual  amount  received  varies 
from  25  to  30  inches  over  the  whole  District.  In  189 1-2,  however, 
only  i2i  inches  fell  throughout  the  year,  while  in  1896-7,  though  the 
total  was  28  inches,  more  than  half  fell  in  June  and  July.  The  rain- 
fall is  not  only  capricious  in  time  but  in  the  choice  of  localities,  some 
tracts  being  left  quite  unwatered  in  some  years,  while  others  receive 
more  than  their  due  share. 

It  is  reported  that  in  1872  there  was  a  flood  caused  by  the  overflow- 
ing of  the  Samon  river,  which  inundated  a  large  portion  of  the  country 
and  destroyed  all  the  crops.  It  is  seldom,  however,  that  the  District 
suffers  from  an  excess  of  water. 

A  tradition  of  doubtful  authenticity  relates  that  the  name  Matila 

(meaning  '  it  does  not  reach ')  was  given  by  Anawrata,  king  of  Pagan, 

to  the  present  town  of  Meiktila  to  commemorate  the 

j      1    r  ,  •  --  History. 

death  from  exhaustion  of  a  horseman  sent  to  report 

whether  the  lake  extended  to  Popa,  who  returned  with  a  negative 
answer  on  his  lips.  From  the  earliest  times  the  District  formed  an 
integral  part  of  the  kingdom  of  Upper  Burma,  whether  centred  at 
Pagan,  Ava,  Amarapura,  or  Mandalay.  The  first  place  of  note  in  the 
District  mentioned  in  the  Burmese  chronicles  is  Pindale,  now  a  village 
in  the  Wundwin  township,  which  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by 
Sulathanbawa,  a  king  of  the  Tharekhettra  dynasty  (see  Prome  Dis- 
trict). Later,  in  the  eleventh  century,  Anawrata  is  reported  to  have 
visited  Meiktila,  and  to  have  made  the  north  embankment  of  the  lake. 
The  same  monarch  is  credited  with  the  foundation  of  Hlaingdet  (1030). 
On  the  break  up  of  the  Pagan  kingdom  the  country  came  under  Shan 
dominion,  and  formed  a  portion  of  the  principalities  that  strove  for 
mastery  in  Upper  Burma  till  the  rise  of  the  Toungoo  dynasty.  In 
due  course  it  was  absorbed  into  the  Burmese  empire  of  Pegu  and  later 
into  the  kingdom  of  Ava,  of  which  it  formed  a  part  at  the  time  of  the 
annexation  of  Upper   Burma.     The  country  was  disturbed  during  the 


278  MEIKTILA    DISTRICT 

cold  season  of  1885-6,  but  was  occupied  by  troops  from  Pagan 
in  March,  1886,  when  a  force  advanced  through  Mahlaing  and 
Meiktila  to  Vamethin,  a  civil  officer  being  left  at  Mahlaing  and  a 
military  post  being  established  at  Meiktila,  which  was  for  the  time 
made  over  to  Yamethin  District.  At  that  time  the  Mahlaing  township 
formed  part  of  Myingyan,  but  the  present  District  was  constituted  in 
October  of  the  same  year.  The  garrison  of  Meiktila  was  engaged 
during  1886  with  the  Yamethin  dacoits  on  the  one  side  and  the 
Kyaukse  dacoits  on  the  other,  while  in  the  District  itself  were  rebel 
leaders  who  had  served  the'Myinzaing  prince  (see  Kyaukse  District). 
These  were  driven  out  again  and  again  from  their  head-quarters  at  the 
foot  of  the  Shan  hills,  whence  they  were  in  the  habit  of  retiring  to  the 
Yengan  and  Lawksawk  States  on  being  pressed.  A  former  Burmese 
cavalry  officer,  one  Tun  E,  rendered  valuable  service  at  this  time  with 
a  strong  force  of  horse  and  foot,  which  he  raised  and  maintained  at  his 
own  expense.  As  time  went  on  the  outposts  were  gradually  advanced, 
and  the  bands  were  dispersed,  with  a  loss,  however,  of  about  1 1  officers 
and  80  men  during  the  year.  In  1887  the  dacoits  at  the  foot  of  the 
Shan  hills  were  attacked  by  a  combined  expedition  from  Kyaukse  and 
Meiktila,  and  were  driven  with  some  loss  from  a  strong  position  ;  and 
after  that  the  District  remained  undisturbed,  with  the  exception  of  the 
south-east  portion,  bordering  on  Myingyan  District,  which  was  raided 
from  time  to  time  by  the  cattle-lifters  of  Popa  and  the  neighbouring 
country.     By  1888  the  District  was  practically  settled. 

There  are  a  number  of  notable  pagodas  in  the  Mahlaing,  Wundwin, 
and  Thazi  townships,  the  fame  of  some  of  which  extends  far  beyond 
the  District  limits.  The  chief  of  these  is  the  Shwezigon  at  Pindale,  to 
which  pilgrimages  are  made  from  all  parts  of  Upper  Burma.  Others 
are  the  Shwesiswe,  the  Sutaungbyi,  the  Shwemoktaw,  and  the  Shwe- 
yinhmyaw.  Legend  credits  king  Narapadisithu  of  Pagan  with  having 
built  the  Sutaungbyi.  The  Meiktila  township  contains  six  remarkable 
shrines,  the  Shwesawlu,  the  Nagayon,  the  Shwelehla,  the  Sigongyi,  the 
Nandawya,  and  the  Shwemyindin.  When  Anawrata,  king  of  Pagan, 
came  to  repair  the  banks  of  the  lake,  he  is  said  to  have  founded  the 
Shwelehla  and  Nagayon  pagodas,  while  his  son,  Saw  Lu,  built  the  Nan- 
dawya pagoda  to  the  north  of  the  Meiktila  fort.  This  last  is  called, 
indifferently,  the  Saw  Lu  or  Nandawya  pagoda,  because  in  1796  Bodaw- 
paya,  the  consolidator  of  Alaungpaya's  conquests,  built  a  temporary 
palace  (Burmese,  na?idaw)  at  the  lake  side  opposite  the  pagoda.  At 
the  same  time  his  son  founded  the  Sigongyi  pagoda,  north  of  the  lake. 

The  population  of  Meiktila  District  was  217,280  in  1891  and  252,305 

,    .  in  1901.     Its  distribution  in  the  latter  year  is  shown 

Population.        •      ,         1  ,  1 

in  the  table  on  the  next  page. 

The   only  District    from    which    there    has    been   any  considerable 


POPULATION 


279 


immigration  is  Myingyan.  The  greater  part  of  the  emigration  is 
directed  to  Kyauk.se  and  Yamethin  Districts  and  to  Lower  Burma. 
In  the  hills  in  the  east  the  villages  are  few  and  far  between,  but  else- 
where the  population  is  thick  enough  to  raise  the  density  in  the  District 
as  a  whole  to  over  ioo  persons  per  square  mile.  There  are  a  certain 
number  of  representatives  of  the  religions  of  India,  but  98  per  cent,  of 
the  community  are  Buddhist,  and  about  the  same  proportion  are 
speakers  of  Burmese.  Shan  is  .spoken  far_  less  than  in  the  adjoining 
District  of  Yamethin. 


Township. 

u 
ti 

s 

r-*    • 

■  a 

c  — 
1 

466 

426 
696 

595 

Number  of 

Population. 

Population  per 
square  mile. 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 

population  be- 
tween iK<)i 
and  1901. 

c 
^-  ** 

0  •-'  — 

X   c    ~  — 

-  ■r.-z'C 

E  =  a  S 
sot. 

SS1" 

c. 

m;;°3 

u>925 

S.035 

7,004 

i 

0 
r- 

I 

ui 

t, 
bo 
_rt 

> 

Meiktila 
Mahlaing     . 
Thazi 
Wundwin     . 

District  tolal 

39° 

250 

316 

277 

76,656 
62,890 
49,824 
62,935 

164 
148 

72 
I06 

+    17 
+    13 

+    27 

+    II 

2,183      1 

'.233 

252;305 

ll6 

+   16 

41,667 

The  number  of  Burmans  in  1901  was  245,900,  or  slightly  over 
97  per  cent,  of  the  total  population.  In  the  hills  in  the  east  of  the 
District  are  about  1,300  Danus,  who  are  regarded  as  Shans  by  the 
Burmans  and  as  Burmans  by  the  Shans ;  they  are  of  mixed  Shan  and 
Burmese  blood,  and  talk  bad  Burmese.  At  Ywagyi  a  village  is 
inhabited  by  paydkyuns  or  pagoda  slaves,  alleged  to  be  the  descen- 
dants of  400  men  assigned  to  the  pagoda  by  king  Anawrata.  The 
Indian  immigrants  in  1901  numbered  2,700,  out  of  a  total  of  2,600 
Musalmans  and  1,600  Hindus,  so  that  about  1,500  of  the  repre- 
sentatives of  these  Indian  religions  must  have  been  born  in  the 
country.  In  the  Thazi  township  is  a  colony  of  Burmese-speaking 
Muhammadans,  who  account  for  a  large  proportion  of  this  last  total. 
They  are  the  reputed  descendants  of  a  regiment  in  the  army  of  king 
Mindon,  who  were  said  to  be  the  offspring  of  a  force  of  3,000  men 
sent  to  Burma  by  the  emperor  of  Delhi  in  the  seventeenth  or  eighteenth 
century.  About  half  the  Indian  population  is  domiciled  in  Meiktila 
town  and  cantonment.  In  1901  the  number  of  persons  directly 
dependent  upon  agriculture  was  178,370,  representing  71  per  cent,  of 
the  total  population. 

There  are  about  500  Christians,  largely  British  soldiers,  the  majority 
of  whom  are  Anglicans  or  Roman  Catholics.  There  is  not  much 
active  mission  work  in  the  District.  The  total  of  native  Christians 
is  234. 

The  agricultural   conditions  are   typical   of  the  dry  zone,  Meiktila 


2  So 


MEIKTILA   DISTRICT 


being  probably  the  poorest  of  all  the  Districts  lying  in  that  area.     Rice 

is  grown  in  suitable  tracts ;    where  it  cannot  be  raised,  the  ordinary 

.     ,  crops  of  the  dry  zone  are  cultivated.     The  soil  in  the 

Agriculture* 

valleys  near  the  two  ridges  described  above  is  covered 

with  kyatti,  a  yellowish  soil,  greasy  and  slightly  clayey  when  wet,  hard 
when  dry,  and  fit  only  for  rice,  of  which  it  produces  the  poorest  crops. 
The  best  rice  tract  is  composed  of  black  cotton  soil  {sane  net),  a  stiff, 
tenacious,  and  adhesive  clay.  An  ample  supply  of  water  is,  however, 
a  more  important  factor  in  the  production  of  rice  in  Meiktila  than  a 
good  quality  of  soil ;  and  the  only  good  crops  are  obtained  on  the  lands 
irrigated  from  the  numerous  tanks  in  the  Meiktila  and  Nyaungvan- 
Minhla  systems,  and  the  weirs  thrown  across  the  Thinbon  chaung.  A 
considerable  area  of  rice  land,  especially  the  valley  between  the  two 
ridges  mentioned  above,  is  impregnated  with  natron  or  soda  (satpya), 
an  element  which  necessitates  constant  supplies  of  clean  water  to  the 
crops.  The  beds  of  some  of  the  streams  unfortunately  show  abundant 
traces  of  the  presence  of  natron,  and  the  evil  is  spreading.  Even  when 
fresh  water  is  constantly  supplied,  a  .ra^'tf-impregnated  field  will  not 
produce  the  full  crop  of  an  ordinary  field  ;  and  if  the  water  stands  for 
long  it  turns  the  colour  of  congealed  blood,  and  the  rice  stalks  are  apt 
to  bend  over  and  break  and  assume  a  bedraggled  and  rusty  appearance. 
The  methods  of  rice  cultivation  do  not  differ  from  those  in  use  in  Upper 
Burma  generally.  Practically  all  the  kaukkyi  (wet-season)  rice  is  trans- 
planted from  nurseries.  Joivar  takes  the  place  of  kaukkyi  on  rice  lands 
in  years  of  scanty  rainfall.  Cotton  is  cultivated  for  the  most  part  on 
the  high  ground  in  the  north-west,  and  is  only  grown  as  a  rule  once 
on  the  same  ground  in  three  years,  ses&mum,  jowdr,  or  beans  inter- 
vening. Early  sesamum  (/wanyin)  is  reaped  between  June  and 
September ;  late  sesamum  and  joivar  between  October  and  January. 
Other  crops  cultivated  in  the  District  are  chillies,  peas  and  beans, 
tomatoes,  maize,  onions,  gram,  sweet-potatoes,  cucumbers,  pumpkins, 
brinjals,  Goa  beans,  betel-vines,  sugar-cane,  and  toddy-palms. 

The   following   table   gives    the   main   agricultural   statistics  of  the 
District  for  1903-4,  in  square  miles: — 


Township. 

Total  area. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated. 

Forests. 

Meiktila 
Mahlaing    . 
Thazi 
Wundwia  . 

Total 

466 
426 
696 

595 

180 

143 
103 
117 

32 

5 

47 

52 

I 

r      4°5 

2,183 

543 

136 

405 

The  staple  crop  is  rice  (practically  all  kaukkyi  or  wet-season  rice), 
grown  on  202  square  miles,  a  figure  approached  only  by  that  iox  joivar, 


AGRICULTURE  281 

which  covers  188  square  miles.  A  large  area  (135  square  miles)  is 
under  sesamum,  a  crop  generally  followed  by  a  second  harvest  of  rice, 
Jozudr,  maize,  or  beans.  Nearly  52  square  miles  in  the  Meiktila  township 
alone  produce  early  sesamum.  In  1903-4  about  40  square  miles  were 
under  cotton.  Of  this  area,  31  square  miles  lay  in  the  Mahlaing  town- 
ship, adjoining  the  main  cotton-producing  area  in  Myingyan  District. 
Meiktila  grows  the  largest  chilli  crop  in  the  Province,  17  square  miles 
being  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  this  condiment.  The  other  crops 
referred  to  in  the  preceding  paragraph  are  produced  on  a  smaller  scale. 
Toddy-palms  are  planted  to  a  large  extent  in  the  north-western  part  of 
the  District.  The  average  area  of  a  holding  is  about  7  acres  in  the 
case  of  rice  land,  and  about  1 1  in  the  case  of  ya  or  uplands. 

No  loans  have  been  made  under  the  Land  Improvement  Loans  Act. 
Free  recourse  was  had  to  the  Agriculturists'  Loans  Act  during  the 
scarcity  of  1896-7,  and  since  then  the  utility  of  this  enactment  has 
been  proved  more  than  once.  About  Rs.  9,000  was  advanced  in 
1900- 1,  and  the  system  was  so  much  appreciated  by  the  villagers  that 
during  the  following  three  years  the  loans  averaged  nearly  Rs.  30,000 
per  annum. 

Cattle-breeding  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent.  Buffaloes 
have  been  introduced  from  Lower  Burma  in  small  numbers,  but  are 
not  bred  in  the  District. 

There  are  no  reserved  grazing  grounds,  sufficient  pasturage  being 
afforded  by  fallow  and  uncultivable  lands,  broken  and  hilly  ground, 
and  scrub  jungle.  No  difficulties  are  experienced  in  feeding  live-stock, 
except  during  a  period  of  drought,  when  cultivators  usually  emigrate  to 
areas  where  there  is  no  distress.  The  only  expenditure  incurred  by  the 
owners  of  breeding  cattle  is  the  hire  of  the  herdsman  who  takes  the 
beasts  out  to  graze.  Goats  and  sheep  are  reared  with  success  by 
natives  of  India  in  Meiktila  town  and  in  a  few  villages.  Hogs  are  also 
bred,  but  only  in  small  numbers. 

The  chief  sources  of  irrigation  are  the  Meiktila  lake,  the  Nyaungyan- 
Minhla  tank,  the  Inyin  se  (or  dam),  the  Wundwin  se,  and  the  Nyaung- 
binhla  se.  The  Meiktila  lake  draws  its  supplies  from  the  high  land 
east  of  Popa,  having  a  catchment  area  of  over  200  square  miles.  The 
area  irrigated  from  the  system  of  tanks  and  distributaries  fed  by  it 
extends  north-eastwards  to  Wundwin,  and  eastwards  to  Thazi,  and  the 
total  at  present  commanded  by  the  lake  is  43  square  miles.  The 
portion  of  this  total  actually  irrigated  varies  considerably  from  year  to 
year.  The  Nyaungyan-Minhla  tank,  described  above,  is  really  com- 
posed of  two  tanks  joined  by  a  channel.  New  irrigation  works  have 
considerably  diminished  its  catchment  area,  which  is  now  estimated  at 
200  square  miles,  the  area  commanded  being  30  square  miles,  though 
only  6,000  acres  are  at  present  actually  irrigated.     The  Inyin  se  is  a 


282  MEIKTILA  DISTRICT 

stone  crib-work  weir  (with  flanking  banks),  thrown  across  the  Thinbon 
chaung  near  Chaunggon,  a  village  to  the  north  of  Meiktila  town.  It  is 
capable  of  watering  nearly  10,000  acres,  but  usually  irrigates  about  half 
that  amount.  The  water  passing  over  the  weir  is  dammed  below  by 
numerous  temporary  ses,  which  distribute  the  water  over  a  considerable 
area.  The  dam  was  seriously  breached  in  September,  1905.  The 
Wundwin  se  is  situated  close  to  Wundwin,  its  supply  being  derived 
chiefly  from  the  Meiktila  lake  system  and  a  watercourse  known  as  the 
Natmyaung.  It  irrigates  as  a  rule  about  4,500  acres.  The  Nyaung- 
binhla  se  consists  of  a  crib-work  weir  thrown  across  the  Samon  .river 
just  below  where  it  enters  the  District  in  the  south.  It  diverts  the 
water  to  the  north-east,  and  serves  on  an  average  about  3,000  acres. 
The  District  contains  hundreds  of  small  tanks,  fed  by  weirs  which  hold 
up  the  freshes  in  the  streams  ;  they  are,  however,  maintained  by  the 
cultivators  themselves,  and  are  not  Government  works.  Altogether 
136  square  miles  were  returned  as  irrigated  in  1903-4.  Of  this  total, 
50,500  acres  were  served  by  the  numerous  private  tanks  scattered  over 
the  country,  and  35,600  acres  by  Government  tanks  and  canals.  The 
irrigated  land  is  almost  wholly  given  up  to  rice  cultivation. 

Several  types  of  forest  occur  in  the  District.  The  western  areas  are 
covered  with  dry  scrub  growth,  in  which  the  principal  species  are  sha 
(Acacia  Catechu),  kan  (Carissa  Carandas),  pyinzin 
(Rhus  paniculata),  dahat  (Tectona  Hami/toniana), 
and  here  and  there  a  tanaung  (Acacia  leucophloea),  or  a  group  of 
tamarinds.  The  only  species  of  any  importance  is  the  sha,  yielding 
the  cutch  of  commerce,  but  this  has  been  overworked  in  the  past. 
Along  the  banks  of  the  Samon  chaung  the  growth  improves,  and  in 
places  which  have  escaped  the  attention  of  contractors  supplying  fuel 
to  the  railway  it  approaches  the  condition  of  high  forest.  The  chief 
species  in  this  belt  are  than  (Terminalia  Olivert),  dahat  (Tectona 
Hami/toniana),  thainon  (Niebuhria  sp.)t  nabe  (Odina  Wodier),  and 
tapauk  (Dalbergia  paniculata),  with  the  myiniva  (Dendrocalamus 
strictus)  as  the  common  bamboo.  None  of  these  is  of  any  commercial 
importance,  though  the  extract  prepared  from  the  bark  of  the  than  has 
been  reported  on  very  favourably  as  a  tanning  material.  On  the  slopes 
of  the  hills  draining  into  the  Samon  chaung  the  forest  is  of  the  familiar 
indaing  type,  the  principal  species  being  in  (Dipterocarpus  tuberculatus), 
thitya  (Shorea  obtusa),  and  ingyin  (Pentacme  siamensis),  all  yielding 
building  timber.  Still  farther  to  the  west,  in  the  basin  of  the  Panlaung 
chaung,  mixed  dry  forests  predominate,  containing  valuable  timber 
trees,  such  as  teak,  padauk,  and  pyingado  (Xylia  dolabriformis),  as  well 
as  the  thitya,  ingyin,  and  other  growths.  In  1903-4  the  total  area  of 
'  reserved  '  forests  was  105  square  miles,  of  which  49  square  miles  were 
cutch  Reserves  ;  and  it  was  estimated  that  the  unclassed  forests  covered 


TRADE  AND    COMMUNICATIONS  283 

a  further  300  square  miles.  With  tire  exception  of  about  30  acres  of 
paddy-fields  acquired  at  settlement  in  the  Aingtha  and  Thinbon  chaung 
Reserves,  which  were  ploughed  and  sown  broadcast  with  cutch  seed, 
no  planting  operations  have  been  undertaken.  The  total  forest  receipts 
in  1903-4  amounted  to  only  Rs.  2,500. 

Meiktila  possesses  few  minerals  of  economic  importance.  Limestone 
appears  in  small  quantities  in  many  parts  of  Mahlaing,  but  is  said  to 
have  no  industrial  value,  though  a  very  fair  lime  can  be  obtained  from 
it.  The  natron  that  accumulates  on  the  soil  in  the  satpya-Xaden  tracts 
is  collected  and  used  as  a  cosmetic.  Coal  has  been  found  in  the 
Kyetkauk  hill  south-east  of  Hlaingdet  in  Thazi,  and  also  in  the  Suban 
circle ;  and  brine-springs  occur  in  a  few  places  in  the  Wundwin  township. 

The  District  is  essentially  agricultural,  and  the  great  majority  of  the 
population  depend  wholly  on  husbandry  for  a  livelihood,  so  that  there 
are   few  manufactures.     Bamboo   basket-  and  mat- 
work  is  carried  on  to  a  limited  extent,  but  the  output        Trade  and 

„  .         r      1       1  •  communications, 

is  not  more  than  sufficient  for  local  requirements. 

The  only  special  industry  is  the  manufacture  of  rough  pottery,  carried 
on  in  the  Wundwin,  Mahlaing,  and  Thazi  townships.  The  experiment 
of  weaving  cotton  cloth  by  machinery  is  being  tried  in  the  villages  of 
Shawbin  and  Aingtha  in  Wundwin.  A  cotton-ginning  factory  has  been 
established  at  Mahlaing,  and  the  cotton,  after  being  ginned,  is  exported 
to  Lower  Burma  and  Bhamo.  Butter  is  manufactured  at  Meiktila,  and 
goes  to  Rangoon  and  Mandalay. 

The  District  carries  on  a  steady  trade  with  the  Southern  Shan  States 
by  way  of  the  Thazi-Taunggyi  Government  road.  A  good  deal  of  the 
traffic  that  starts  from  Taunggyi  is  diverted  into  Yamethin ;  a  fair 
portion  of  it,  however,  reaches  Meiktila  District  and  is  registered  at 
Kywelebin.  The  imports  from  the  Shan  States  by  the  Kywelebin 
route  were  valued  at  4  lakhs  in  1903-4,  the  chief  items  being  potatoes 
(valued  at  Rs.  74,600),  lac  (Rs.  1,08,000),  ponies,  vegetables,  and 
various  other  articles,  the  most  important  of  which  is  thanatpet  for 
cigar  wrappers.  The  exports  to  the  Shan  States  by  the  same  route 
were  valued  in  the  same  year  at  13-4  lakhs,  including  European  cotton 
piece-goods  (6-8  lakhs),  betel-nuts  (Rs.  36,800),  cotton  twist  and  yarn 
(Rs.  96,000),  salt  (Rs.  26,200),  petroleum  (Rs.  34,000),  woollen  goods, 
wheat,  iron-work,  salted  fish,  ngapi,  g/il,  and  sugar.  To  other  Districts 
in  Burma  Meiktila  exports  cutch  and  cotton,  mainly  to  Rangoon  and 
Mandalay  by  train,  and  to  Bhamo  via  Mandalay  by  steamer.  Cotton 
and  silk  goods  and  various  manufactured  commodities  are  brought  in 
by  the  railway. 

Though  absolutely  without  navigable  waterways,  Meiktila  is  excep- 
tionally well  off  in  the  matter  of  land  communications.  The  railway 
line  from  Mandalay  to  Rangoon  passes  from  north  to  south  through 

VOL.  XVII.  t 


284  MEIKTILA   DISTRICT 

the  District  for  39^  miles,  and  has  four  stations  within  its  limits. 
The  Myingyan  branch  from  Thazi  to  the  boundary  at  Ywatha  runs 
diagonally  north-westwards  for  40^  miles,  with  six  stations,  including 
those  at  Meiktila  and  Mahlaing.  Thus,  except  in  the  extreme  east, 
no  portion  of  Meiktila  is  out  of  touch  with  the  District  head-quarters 
or  the  outside  world. 

The  chief  roads  maintained  by  the  Public  Works  department  are  : 
from  Meiktila  to  Thazi  (15^  miles,  metalled),  and  thence  via  Hlaindet 
into  the  Shan  States,  crossing  the  Shan  States  border  near  Nampandet ; 
from  Wundwin  to  Mahlaing  (29  miles)  ;  from  Meiktila  to  Pindale 
(20  miles);  from  Meiktila  to  Mahlaing  (31  miles);  and  on  to  Myin- 
gyan. All  but  the  first  of  these  are  unmetalled.  Various  tracks,  some 
of  them  maintained  out  of  the  District  fund,  connect  the  larger  villages 
with  each  other  and  with  the  railway.  The  total  length  of  metalled  and 
unmetalled  roads  in  1903-4  was  24  miles  and  107  miles  respectively. 
The  rainfall  is  so  light  that  the  village  roads  can  be  used  practically 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

The  capriciousness  of  the  rainfall  is  responsible  for  frequent  failure  of 
the  harvest.  Scarcity  occurred  in  189 1-2  owing  to  light  rains,  and 
caused  considerable  emigration  to  Lower  Burma  and 
Kyaukse,  necessitating  the  opening  of  relief  works. 
In  severity,  however,  it  was  eclipsed  by  the  famine  of  1896-7.  The 
previous  year  had  been  a  lean  one,  and  the  rains  held  off  from  the 
middle  of  July  till  October,  and  ceased  the  same  month.  The  needs 
of  the  people  were,  however,  supplied  by  private  enterprise ;  and 
though  the  price  of  rice  at  first  rose  to  7  seers  to  the  rupee,  it  fell 
to  8  seers  when  food-grains  were  imported.  The  stringency  of  prices 
was  not  accompanied  by  any  marked  increase  of  crime  except  cattle- 
theft.  During  the  period  of  famine  cholera  broke  out  in  some  parts 
of  the  District,  but  was  soon  stamped  out.  The  death-rate,  however, 
ordinarily  between  25  and  30  per  1,000,  rose  in  1897  to  42  in  March, 
April,  and  May,  dropping  gradually  to  normal  in  the  autumn.  The 
works  undertaken  for  the  relief  of  distress  were  the  Thazi-Myingyan 
railway,  and  the  Wundwin-Pindale  and  Meiktila  Lake  roads.  In 
addition  to  other  measures,  advances  were  made  in  1896-7  under  the 
Agriculturists'  Loans  Act  to  the  amount  of  Rs.  41,000,  and  in  the 
following  year  to  the  amount  of  Rs.  53,000.  The  whole  District  was 
affected,  and  many  of  the  villagers  migrated  to  other  parts  of  Burma. 
When  the  assessment  of  thathameda  was  made,  it  was  found  necessary 
to  abstain  from  levying  anything  from  3,863  households,  while  the  rest 
of  the  people  were  taxed  at  reduced  rates  of  Rs.  3  and  upwards.  The 
total  number  of  units  relieved  from  October,  1896,  to  November,  1897, 
was  3 1  millions,  the  largest  number  in  a  month  being  600,000  in 
January. 


ADMINISTRATION  285 

The  District  is  divided  for  administrative  purposes  into  two  sub- 
divisions :  Meiktila,  comprising  the  Meiktila  and  Mahlaing  town- 
ships ;  and  Thazi,  comprising  the  Thazi  and 
Wundwin  townships.  They  are  in  charge  of  the  Administration- 
usual  executive  officers,  under  whom  are  468  village  headmen.  At 
head-quarters  are  an  akunwun  (in  subordinate  charge  of  revenue), 
a  treasury  officer,  and  a  superintendent  of  land  records,  with  a  staff  of 
5  inspectors  and  50  surveyors.  The  District  forms,  with  the  rest 
of  the  Division,  the  Meiktila  Public  Works  division,  and  contains  two 
subdivisions.  An  Assistant  Engineer  is  in  charge  of  the  Southern  or 
Meiktila  subdivision  of  the  Eastern  Irrigation  division.  The  District 
forms  part  of  the  Kyaukse  subdivision  of  the  Mandalay  Forest  division. 

The  Commissioner  is  Sessions  Judge  for  the  District,  and  the 
Deputy-Commissioner  is  District  Magistrate  and  District  Judge. 
Four  township  courts  and  two  subdivisional  courts  are  subordinate  to 
the  District  court.  The  township  officers  dispose  of  both  civil  and 
criminal  work,  as  well  as  revenue  business.  It  has  been  found 
necessary  to  appoint  one  additional  judge  (who  is  also  treasury  officer 
and  head-quarters  magistrate)  to  the  Meiktila  township  court,  and 
a  second  to  assist  the  township  officers  of  Thazi  and  Mahlaing  in 
their  civil  work.  A  third  additional  judge  spends  half  his  time  at 
Wundwin  and  half  at  Pyawbwe  in  Yamethin  District.  Besides  the 
additional  township  judges,  an  additional  judge  (usually  an  Extra 
Assistant  Commissioner)  has  been  posted  to  Meiktila  and  Yamethin 
Districts,  to  relieve  the  District  court  of  the  greater  part  of  its  civil  and 
criminal  work.  He  sits  half  the  month  at  Meiktila  and  half  at  Yamethin. 
A  Cantonment  Magistrate  disposes  of  petty  criminal  cases  within  the 
limits  of  Meiktila  cantonment.  Cattle-theft  is  one  of  the  most  preva- 
lent offences,  the  facilities  for  this  form  of  crime  being  great. 

Under  native  rule  the  District  revenue  was  derived  from  thathameda, 
an  irrigation  tax,  crown-land  rents,  bazars,  and  various  law  receipts. 
State  land  at  that  time  covered  a  comparatively  small  area.  The 
water  revenue  was  collected  by  myaunggaungs  or  canal-keepers,  who 
superintended  the  distribution  of  the  water  under  the  kan-ok  or  super- 
intendent of  the  Meiktila  lake.  The  /nyai/nggauiigs  received  neither 
pay  nor  commission,  but  doubtless  took  advantage  of  their  position 
to  levy  extensive  blackmail.  At  annexation  the  revenue  on  most  of 
the  state  land  was  fixed  at  Rs.  16  per  pe  (1-75  acres),  which  was 
supposed  to  represent  the  value  of  one-quarter  of  the  actual  produce, 
but  it  was  not  long  before  this  rate  was  reduced  by  about  half.  The 
irrigation  tax  was  continued  at  a  maximum  rate  of  Rs.  2  per  acre,  and 
thathameda  was  collected  at  Rs.  10  a  house,  or  the  same  rate  as 
before.  Survey  operations  went  on  from  1891  to  1895  ;  and  the  settle- 
ment of  the  surveyed  area,  which  included  all  the  District  west  of  the 

T  2 


2S6 


ME  IK  TIL  A    DISTRICT 


Samon,  was  begun  in  1896  and  completed  in  1898.  In  1901-2  the 
rest  of  the  District  up  to  the  foot  of  the  Shan  hills  was  surveyed,  and 
settlement  rates  will  shortly  be  introduced  there  also.  At  the  settle- 
ment of  1896-8  the  District  was  divided  into  two  tracts  :  one  comprised 
the  greater  part  of  the  District  from  the  Samon  westwards";  the  other 
consisted  of  a  strip  of  relatively  poor  upland  bordering  on  Myingyan 
District  in  the  west,  containing  very  little  state  land,  and  only  about 
4,500  acres  of  cultivation.  On  the  completion  of  the  settlement,  the 
thathameda  was  reduced  from  Rs.  10  to  Rs.  3  a  household,  and  fixed 
rates  were  introduced  on  state  land,  the  rates  on  non-state  land  being 
levied  at  three-fourths  of  the  rate  on  corresponding  state  land.  In  the 
first  tract,  rice  land  now  pays  from  R.  1  to  Rs.  5  per  acre  ;  other  crops 
on  rice  land,  R.  1  ;  ya  or  upland  crops,  from  8  annas  to  Rs.  1-8 
per  acre  ;  onions  and  chillies,  Rs.  3  ;  garden  crops,  from  Rs.  2-8 
(on  plantain  groves)  to  Rs.  15  (on  betel-vines);  sugar-cane,  Rs.  10  per 
acre  ;  and  solitary  fruit  trees,  4  annas  each.  In  the  second  and  poorer 
tract,  the  rates  on  rice  land  vary  from  7  annas  to  Rs.  3-8  ;  and  on 
ya  lands  from  4  annas  to  Rs.  1-2  per  acre. 

The  following  table  gives  the  revenue,  in  thousands  of  rupees,  for 
a  series  of  years  : — 


1890-1. 

1 900 -1. 

1903-4. 

Land  revenue     . 
Total  revenue    . 

10 
4,00 

5,20 
7,83 

3,59 
6,35 

At  one  time  thathameda  was  the  main  source  of  revenue,  but  on  the 
introduction  of  settlement  rates  the  receipts  from  this  source  fell  below 
those  from  land  revenue. 

The  income  of  the  District  fund  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  59,000,  and  the 
chief  item  of  expenditure  was  public  works,  to  which  Rs.  52,000  was 
devoted.     There  are  no  municipalities. 

The  District  Superintendent  of  police  has  a  force  of  3  inspectors, 
8  head  constables,  23  sergeants,  and  289  constables,  24  of  whom  are 
mounted.  There  are  90  military  police  stationed  at  Meiktila  and  30 
at  Thazi.  Meiktila  contains  a  District  jail,  with  accommodation  for 
198  prisoners.  The  industries  carried  on  are  wheat-grinding,  oil- 
pressing,  cactus  and  surkhi  pounding,  carpentry,  rope-making,  and 
bamboo-  and  cane-work. 

The  standard  of  literacy  according  to  the  figures  of  the  last  Census 
is  somewhat  low  for  Burma.  The  number  of  Indian  immigrants  and 
backward  hill  tribes  is  not  large,  yet  the  proportion  of  literate  males  in 
1901  (33  per  cent.)  was  below  that  of  any  other  District  in  the  dry 
zone  of  Upper  Burma,  and  the  female  percentage  (1-7)  was  higher  only 
than  that  of  Magwe  and  a  few  of  the  most  backward  areas  of  the  Pro- 


MEIKTILA    TOWN  287 

vince.     For  both  sexes  together  the  proportion  was  16  per  cent.     The 

number  of  pupils  was  630  in  1891,  and  6,903  in  1901.  In  1904  the 
District  contained  7  secondary,  82  primary,  and  576  elementary 
(private)  schools,  with  an  attendance  of  8,399  pupils,  including  495 
girls.  The  expenditure  amounted  to  Rs.  21,700,  Provincial  funds  sup- 
plying Rs.  16,900,  fees  Rs.  3,000,  and  subscriptions  Rs.  1,800. 

There  are  2  hospitals,  with  a  totai  of  ^  beds;  and  10,664  cases, 
of  whom  444  were  in-patients,  were  treated  in  1903.  The  number  of 
operations  in  the  same  year  was  242.  The  expenditure  amounted 
to  Rs.  11,500,  mostly  derived  from  Provincial  funds.  Subscriptions 
realized  Rs.  600. 

In  1903-4  the  number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  was 
9,130,  representing  36  per  1,000  of  population. 

[R.  A.  Gibson,  Settlement  Report  (1900).] 

Meiktila  Subdivision. — Western  subdivision  of  Meiktila  District, 
Upper  Burma,  comprising  the  Meiktila  and  Mahlaing  townships. 

Meiktila  Township. — South-western  township  of  Meiktila  District, 
Upper  Burma,  lying  on  both  sides  of  the  Meiktila-Myingyan  railway, 
between  20°  40'  and  210  o'  N.  and  950  31'  and  960  2'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  466  square  miles.  The  population  was  65,612  in  1891,  and  76,656 
in  1901,  distributed  in  one  town,  Meiktila  (population,  7,203),  the 
head-quarters  of  the  District  and  township,  and  390  villages.  The 
country  is  undulating  and  badly  watered  for  the  most  part,  except  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  Meiktila  lake.  In  1903-4  the  area  culti- 
vated was  180  square  miles,  and  the  land  revenue  and  thathameda 
amounted  to  Rs.  1,38,000. 

Meiktila  Town. — Head- quarters  of  the  Division  and  District  of 
the  same  name  in  Upper  Burma,  situated  in  200  53'  N.  and  950  52'  E., 
on  the  Myingyan  branch  of  the  Burma  Railway,  320  miles  from  Ran- 
goon and  57  from  Myingyan.  It  stands  on  the  margin  of  a  large  arti- 
ficial lake,  with  an  irregular  indented  margin.  The  lake  is  practically 
divided  into  two  bodies  of  water,  the  north  and  the  south  lake.  Over 
the  strip  of  water  uniting  the  twro  run  the  railway  bridge  and  a  narrow 
wooden  bridge  which  connects  the  town  on  the  east  with  the  civil 
station  on  the  west.  The  population  of  Meiktila  was  4,155  in  1S91 
and  7,203  in  1901,  including  over  2,000  persons  of  Indian  origin. 
The  town  is  built  on  irregular  broken  ground.  On  the  highest  point 
east  of  the  southern  lake  lie  the  cantonments,  from  which  a  road  runs 
along  the  embankment  of  the  lake,  passing  through  the  town,  near 
the  railway  station,  and  crossing  the  bridge  to  the  civil  lines,  whence 
it  is  continued  round  the  margin  of  the  southern  lake  to  the  barracks 
again,  thus  forming  a  circular  road  of  7  miles  in  length.  The  town  is 
not  picturesque,  and  the  number  of  flat-topped  brick  houses  give  it  an 
Eastern,  but  quite  tin-Burmese,  appearance.     Only  the  pongyi  kyaungs 


2S8  MEIKTILA    TOWN 

and  pagodas  remain  unchanged.  There  are  trees  in  Meiktila  itself; 
but  the  general  impression  on  first  arriving  by  train  from  Thazi  is  of 
bare,  broken,  stony  ground,  with  scrubby  jungle  growing  in  patches, 
and  the  lake,  with  its  diversified  shores,  comes  as  a  pleasant  surprise. 
The  north  lake  has  few  buildings  on  its  banks.  West  of  it  lies  a  small 
suburb  called  Kanna ;  and  on  its  eastern  shore  are  the  military  police 
lines,  the  American  Baptist  Mission,  the  bazar,  and  the  Musalman 
mosque.  All  these  are  divided  by  the  railway  line  from  the  town  proper. 

There  are  no  manufactures,  but  a  fair  trade  in  hides  and  other  com- 
modities is  done  with  the  surrounding  villages.  Cattle-breeding  is 
carried  on  to  some  extent.  Butter  manufactured  here  is  exported  to 
Rangoon  and  Mandalay.  Nearly  all  the  pongyi  kyaungs  contain  saw- 
pits,  and  new  houses  are  constantly  being  built.  Leases  have  lately 
been  issued  in  the  town,  and  the  consequent  security  of  land  tenure 
encourages  the  growth  of  good  wooden  and  brick  buildings.  There 
is  a  large  bazar,  where  a  market  is  held  every  fifth  day,  resorted  to 
by  all  the  country-side. 

Most  of  the  public  buildings  have  been  constructed  within  the  last 
ten  years.  The  main  Government  vaccine  depot  for  Burma  is  located 
at  Meiktila.  It  was  started  in  1902,  and  new  buildings  are  to  be 
erected  in  connexion  with  it.  The  expenses  of  the  depot  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  Rs.  8,500,  provided  out  of  Provincial  funds.  The  circuit- 
house  is  unusually  large ;  and  the  club,  built  in  one  of  the  best  positions 
on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  is  a  convenient  and  capacious  building.  The 
station  contains  two  churches,  for  the  Roman  Catholic  and  Anglican 
communities,  a  jail,  and  a  hospital.  The  usual  strength  of  the  garrison 
is  one  wing  of  British  infantry  and  a  regiment  of  Native  infantry.  Meik- 
tila is  also  the  head-quarters  of  a  company  of  the  Upper  Burma  Volun- 
teer Rifles.  The  income  of  the  cantonment  funds  in  1903-4  was 
Rs.  5,700,  and  the  expenditure  Rs.  5,600. 

The  lake  is  reserved  for  drinking  and  household  purposes,  and  is 
carefully  protected  from  possible  pollution.  The  reputation  of  Meiktila 
as  a  healthy  station  is  supposed  to  be  largely  due  to  its  good  supply  of 
drinking-water.  The  depth  of  water  in  the  lake  varies  very  much,  and 
the  under-currents  are  strong.  During  the  hot  season  it  is  occasionally 
swept  by  violent  gusts  of  wind,  which  have  caused  several  fatal 
boating  accidents.  The  town  has  not  yet  been  constituted  a  munici- 
pality ;  but  a  conservancy  scheme  for  the  urban  area  is  now  working 
well,  and  should  increase  the  healthiness  of  this  thriving  and  growing 
centre. 

Meja. — South-eastern  tahsil  of  Allahabad  District,  United  Provinces, 
conterminous  with  the  pargana  of  Khairagarh,  lying  between  240  47' 
and  250  19'  N.  and  8i°  45'  and  820  19'  E.,  with  an  area  of  650  square 
miles.     Population  fell  from  195,221  in  1891  to  167,014  in  1901,  the 


MELGHAT  289 

rate  of  decrease  being  the  highest  in  the  District.  There  are  579  vil- 
lages and  two  towns,  including  Sirsa  (population,  4,159).  The  demand 
for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  2,86,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  48,000  ; 
but  the  land  revenue  has  since  been  reduced  to  Rs.  2,13,000.  The 
density  of  population  in  the  whole  ta&sil  is  only  257  persons  per  square 
mile,  but  in  the  northern  Doab  portion  it  rises  to  469.  The  southern 
part  of  the  tahsil  is  a  precarious  tract,  which  has  recently  been  brought 
under  a  system  of  fluctuating  assessments.  North  of  a  low  range  of 
hills,  which  crosses  the  tahsil  from  east  to  west  at  a  distance  of  5  to 
10  miles  south  of  the  Ganges,  conditions  resemble  those  of  the  Doab. 
A  great  plain  of  mar  or  black  soil  like  that  of  Bundelkhand,  and  with 
low  detached  hills  here  and  there,  stretches  south  to  the  Belan.  Be- 
yond the  Belan  there  is  a  tract  of  mar  on  the  east,  and  on  the  west  a 
small  fertile  valley  of  much  better  quality.  In  the  extreme  south  rises 
the  northern  scarp  of  the  Kaimurs. 

Meja. — Chief  place  in  an  estate  of  the  same  name  in  the  State  of 
Udaipur,  Rajputana,  situated  in  250  25'  N.  and  740  n'  E.,  about 
80  miles  north-east  of  Udaipur  city,  and  6  miles  south-west  of  Mandal 
station  on  the  Rajputana-Malwa  Railway.  Population  (1901),  1,027. 
The  estate  is  of  recent  creation  and  consists  of  16  villages,  held  by 
a  noble  who  has  the  title  of  Rawat  and  belongs  to  the  Chondawat 
family  of  the  Sesodia  Rajputs.  The  income  is  about  Rs.  25,600, 
and  a  tribute  of  Rs.   2,500  is  paid  to  the  Darbar. 

Mekong. — One  of  the  main  rivers  of  Indo-China,  rising  in  Tibet 
and  flowing  with  a  general  south-easterly  course  into  the  China  Sea 
in  French  Cochin-China.  The  greater  portion  of  its  channel  lies  in 
China,  Siam,  and  the  French  possessions  in  Indo-China.  For  50  or 
100  miles  between  about  200  30'  and  210  30'  N.  the  river,  however, 
borders  on  the  Shan  State  of  Kengtung,  separating  that  State  from 
French  territory  ;  and  it  may  therefore  be  said  to  form  a  portion  of  the 
river  systems  of  Burma.  Its  channel  is  impeded  by  rapids,  and  for 
navigation  it  is  of  no  more  value  than  the  Salween.  Its  main  tribu- 
taries in  British  territory  are  the  Nam  Lwi  and  the  Nam  Hkok. 

Mekran.— Division  of  Kalat  State,  Baluchistan.     See  Makran. 

Melghat. — Northernmost  taluk  of  Berar,  formerly  part  of  Ellichpur 
District,  but  since  August,  1905,  incorporated  in  Amraoti  District, 
lying  between  210  io'  and  210  47'  N.  and  760  38'  and  770  40'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  1,631  square  miles.  The  population  fell  from  46,849  in 
1891  to  36,670  in  1901,  the  decrease  being  due  to  the  famine  of 
1899-1900,  which  led  very  many  of  the  Korkils  to  emigrate  north- 
wards. The  density  of  the  population,  22  persons  per  square  mile,  is 
lower  than  in  any  other  taluk  of  Berar.  Villages,  many  of  which  are 
small  collections  of  Korku  dwellings,  number  330,  and  the  taluk  con- 
tains no  town.     Its  head-quarters  are  at  the  sanitarium  of  Chikalda. 


2  9o  MEL  GHAT 

The  inhabitants  are  principally  Korkus  ;  and  the  tahtk,  a  very  large 
proportion  of  which  is  state  forest,  lies  entirely  in  the  Gawilgarh  hills, 
a  branch  of  the  Satpura  range.  The  land  assessment  is  based,  not 
on  acreage,  but  on  ox-gangs,  or  the  area  which  can  be  ploughed  by 
a  pair  of  bullocks.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4 
was  Rs.  44,000. 

Melukote. — Sacred  town  in  the  Seringapatam  taluk  of  Mysore 
District,  Mysore,  situated  in  120  41/  N.  and  760  39'  E.,  on  the  Yadugiri 
hills,  16  miles  north  of  French  Rocks  railway  station.  Population 
(1901),  3,129.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Srlvaishnava  Yatiraja  maf/i,  founded 
by  the  reformer  Ramanuja,  who,  fleeing  from  persecution  by  the  Chola 
king,  took  up  his  residence  here  for  twelve  years  at  the  beginning 
of  the  twelfth  century.  He  converted  the  Hoysala  king,  Bitti  Deva 
of  Mysore,  from  the  Jain  faith,  and  received  from  him  a  grant  of  all 
the  country  north  and  south  of  the  Cauvery,  afterwards  known  as 
Ashtagrama.  In  the  fourteenth  century  Melukote  suffered  at  the 
hands  of  the  Musalmans  on  their  destruction  of  Dorasamudra,  the 
Hoysala  capital.  The  king  retired  to  Tondanur,  now  Tonnur,  at 
the  southern  foot  of  the  Yadugiri  hills.  The  place  was  rebuilt  about 
1460  by  the  chief  of  Nagamangala,  but  in  177 1  was  sacked  by  the 
Marathas  after  their  defeat  of  Haidar  at  Chinkurali.  The  principal 
temple,  a  large  square  building  and  very  plain,  is  that  of  Cheluva- 
pillerava  or  Krishna.  More  striking  is  that  of  Narasimha,  placed  on 
the  very  summit  of  the  rock.  From  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth 
century  Melukote  was  under  the  special  patronage  of  the  Rajas  of 
Mysore.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly  Brahmans,  of  whom  400  are 
attached  to  the  great  temple,  some  of  them  being  men  of  learning. 
There  are  also  numerous  temple  servants  of  Sudra  extraction,  musicians, 
dancing-girls,  and  Satanis.  Some  weavers  and  shopkeepers  are  the 
only  persons  who  live  by  industry.  Two  classes  of  Holeyas  or  out- 
castes,  called  Tirukula  and  Jambavakula,  have  the  privilege  of  entering 
the  temple  once  a  year  to  pay  their  devotions,  in  return  for  their 
people  having  helped  Ramanuja  to  recover  the  image  of  Krishna  when 
it  was  carried  off  to  Delhi  by  the  Muhammadans.  Cloths  of  good 
quality  are  made  here,  and  fragrant  fans  of  khas-khas  grass.  A  fine 
white  clay,  said  to  have  been  discovered  by  Emberumanar  or  Rama- 
nuja, is  used  for  making  the  nama  or  sect-mark  on  the  forehead,  and 
is  exported  to  distant  places  for  that  purpose,  even  to  Benares.  The 
municipality  dates  from  1881.  The  receipts  and  expenditure  during 
the  ten  years  ending  1901  averaged  Rs.  1,400  and  Rs.  r,6oo.  In 
1903-4  they  were  Rs.  1,600  and  Rs.  1,400. 

Melur  Taluk. — Taluk  and  subdivision  in  the  east  of  Madura 
District,  Madras,  lying  between  90  52'  and  io°  30'  N.  and  7 8°  8'  and 
780   29'  E.,  with  an  area  of  485  square  miles.     The  population   in 


MERCARA    TALUK  291 

1901  was  154,381,  compared  with  148,656  in  1891.  It  contains  one 
town,  Melur  (population,  10,100),  the  head-quarters;  and  98  villages. 
The  demand  for  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to 
Rs.  4,60,000.  In  the  north  are  the  irregular  masses  of  the  Alagar, 
Nattam,  and  Karandamalai  hills.  The  more  northern  villages,  known 
as  the  Arumaganam,  which  are  situated  among  these  hills,  are  difficult 
of  access  owing  to  the  lack  of  roads.  The  soil  is  chiefly  red  sand. 
One-half  of  the  taluk  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Periyar  Project, 
and  some  of  the  best  varieties  of  rice  produced  in  the  Presidency  are 
grown  in  this  part.  The  remaining  portion  is  irrigated  by  the  Palar, 
the  Tirumanimuttar,  and  the  Uppar  streams,  which,  however,  are  not 
perennial,  and  by  numerous  small  tanks  which  these  rivers  supply 
or  which  are  rain-fed.  The  taluk  has  been  greatly  transformed  and 
enriched  by  the  Periyar  water. 

Melur  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluk  of  the  same  name  in 
Madura  District,  Madras,  situated  in  io°  2'  N.  and  780  20'  E.,  on  the  main 
road  between  Madura  and  Trichinopoly.  It  is  a  Union  with  a  popula- 
tion (1901)  of  10,100;  and  since  the  extension  of  irrigation  in  the 
neighbourhood  by  means  of  the  Periyar  Project,  the  place  has  risen 
in  wealth  and  importance  as  an  agricultural  centre.  The  American 
Mission  has  a  station  here. 

Memadpura. — Petty  State  in  Mahi  Kantha,  Bombay. 

Memari. — Village  in  the  head-quarters  subdivision  of  Burdwan 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  230  io'  N.  and  88°  7'  E.  Population 
(1901),  1,674.  Memari  is  a  station  on  the  East  Indian  Railway 
and  an  important  trade  centre.  Silk  saris  and  dhotis  are  manu- 
factured. 

Mengni. — Petty  State  in  Kathiawar,  Bombay. 

Mercara  Taluk. — Central  taluk  of  Coorg,  Southern  India,  lying 
between  n°56/and  i2°36'  N.  and  750  36' and  750  57'  E.,  with  an  area  of 
216  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  28,620,  compared  with 
34,088  in  1 89 1,  the  decline  being  due  to  the  falling  off  in  the  coffee 
industry  and  consequent  depression  in  trade.  The  taluk  contains  one 
town,  Mercara  (population,  6,732),  the  head-quarters;  and  56  villages. 
The  Mercara  table-land,  whose  elevation  is  3,809  feet  above  the  sea  at 
the  fort,  occupies  the  west  centre.  From  it  the  Ghat  ranges  extend 
westwards  towards  Bengunad  and  the  Sampajl  valley,  northwards  lies 
a  range  which  includes  Kotebetta  (5,375  feet),  on  the  east  a  range 
runs  towards  Fraserpet,  and  south-east  a  range  which  culminates  in 
Nurokkalbetta.  The  Cauvery  runs  along  the  southern  boundary, 
receiving  from  this  taluk  the  Muttarmudi  and  the  Chikkahole.  The 
north  is  drained  by  the  Hatti  or  Harangi,  which  for  some  distance 
forms  the  boundary.  Within  the  taluk  are  thus  comprised  all  the 
essential  features  of  Coorg.     The   north   and  west   are  occupied  by 


2Q 2  MERCARA    TALUK 

valuable  and  extensive  coffee  plantations,  and  the  soil  generally  is 
fertile  and  productive  for  both  '  wet '  and  '  dry  crops.' 

Mercara  Town  (properly  Madikeri,  'clean  town').  — Chief  town 
of  Coorg,  Southern  India,  situated  in  120  25'  N.  and  750  44'  E., 
on  an  elevated  plateau,  points  on  which  are  3,961  feet  above  the  sea 
in  the  south,  4,155  in  the  west,  4,267  in  the  north-east,  and  4,345 
in  the  south-east.  It  consists  of  the  native  town  of  Mahadevapet  and 
the  fort,  which  is  3,809  feet  above  the  sea.  Population  (1901),  6,732 
(4,496  Hindus,  1,635  Muhammadans,  559  Christians,  and  42  others). 
For  the  reasons  given  in  the  article  on  the  taluk,  the  numbers  have 
fallen  from  8,383  in  1891.  An  efficient  water-supply  has  been  provided, 
chiefly  from  private  contributions.  In  1903-4  the  municipal  income 
was  Rs.  18,000,  including  taxes  on  houses  and  lands  (Rs.  6,200), 
professions  and  trades  (Rs.  2,300),  and  grants  and  loans  (Rs.  4,500). 
The  expenditure  amounted  to  Rs.  20,000,  the  chief  items  being 
hospitals  and  dispensaries  (Rs.  5,300),  conservancy  (Rs.  3,000),  and 
education  (Rs.  1,700). 

Mercara  was  selected  by  Muddu  Raja  on  account  of  its  central  and 
inaccessible  position  as  the  site  of  his  fort  and  capital,  and  thither 
in  1 68 1  he  moved  the  royal  residence  from  Haleri,  a  few  miles  to 
the  north.  The  present  fort,  which  is  of  stone,  was  built  by  Tipu 
Sultan,  and  named  by  him  Jafarabad.  On  the  approach  of  the  British 
force  marching  against  Seringapatam  under  Abercromby  in  1790,  the 
fort  was  evacuated  by  Tipu's  troops,  and  delivered  over  with  all  its 
guns  and  ammunition  to  the  Raja  of  Coorg.  It  surrendered  to  the 
British  without  opposition  in  1834,  and  is  still  in  pretty  good  preserva- 
tion, but  of  little  strategical  value,  being  commanded  by  hills  all  round 
within  short  range  of  cannon.  It  consists  of  a  rampart  8  feet  thick, 
and  from  15  to  20  feet  high  outside,  with  battlements  2  feet  thick  and 
5  feet  high.  The  fortress  is  an  irregular  hexagon,  and  nearly  conforms 
to  the  shape  of  the  hill-top,  leaving  enough  space  for  a  ditch  all  round, 
and  on  the  north  side  for  a  glacis.  There  are  bastions  at  the  six 
angles,  and  the  whole  is  built  of  strong  masonry.  The  circuitous  en- 
trance is  on  the  east,  and  guarded  by  three  successive  gates.  Within 
the  fort  is  the  palace,  erected  of  brick  in  1812  by  Linga  Raja.  The 
ground  plan  is  that  of  a  Coorg  house,  with  a  superstructure  in 
European  fashion.  It  forms  a  large  square  of  200  feet,  with  an  open 
space  in  the  centre,  and  is  two  storeys  high.  In  the  fort  also  are  the 
Commissioner's  residence  and  the  public  offices.  In  the  inner  fort, 
to  the  southern  front  of  the  palace,  is  the  English  church,  built  on 
the  site  of  a  Ylrabhadra  temple  removed  in  1855.  In  the  opposite 
corner  of  the  courtyard  is  (or  was)  the  figure  of  an  elephant,  in 
masonry,  life  size.  It  is  said  that  the  Raja  used  to  stand  on  the 
balcony  of  the  palace  with  a  rifle  and  cause  prisoners  to  run  across 


MERGUI  DISTRICT  293 

the  yard  while  he  fired  at  them,  with  the  promise  of  their  lives  if  they 
escaped  to  the  elephant,  which  however  seldom  occurred. 

The  native  town  of  Mahadevapet,  so  named  after  Vira  Rajendra's 
second  Rani,  runs  along  a  ridge  which  stretches  northwards  from  the 
fort,  being  separated  from  it  by  a  narrow  rice  valley.  It  consists  of 
three  streets,  two  of  which  are  nearly  parallel.  At  the  farther  end 
of  the  town,  on  a  rising  ground,  are  the  picturesque  tombs  of  the 
Coorg  Rajas.  A  market  is  held  in  the  petta  every  Friday.  In  a  hollow 
to  the  east  of  the  fort  is  the  Omkaresvara  temple,  around  which  are 
the  residences  of  the  principal  native  officials.  But  the  Coorgs  in 
Mercara  seldom  have  their  families  with  them ;  these  remain  on  the 
farms.  More  to  the  north  are  the  central  school-buildings,  erected 
on  the  site  of  the  ruins  of  the  palace  built  by  Linga  Raja  for  the 
reception  of  European  visitors.  To  the  south  of  the  fort  are  the 
parade  ground  and  promenade,  at  the  farther  end  of  which  is  the 
Raja's  Seat,  a  public  garden  from  which  a  fine  panorama  is  obtained 
of  Coorg  scenery. 

Mergui  Archipelago. — A  collection  of  islands  in  the  Bay  of  Bengal, 
stretching  along  the  coast  of  the  Tenasserim  Division  of  Lower  Burma 
between,  roughly,  90  and  130  N.  The  Archipelago  numbers  in  all  about 
800  islands,  which  are  almost  uninhabited  except  by  the  Salons  or 
sea-gipsies,  who  wander  from  fishery  ground  to  fisher}'  ground  in  their 
boats.  The  largest  is  King  Island,  one  of  the  few  that  possess  regular 
villages.  The  large  island  of  Kisseraing  (Kitthayi),  though  now  a  waste 
of  jungle,  contains  traces  of  an  old  Siamese  town,  mentioned  in  the 
archives  of  Tenasserim.  Others  are  Tavoy  Island,  off  the  south-west 
corner,  on  which  are  the  most  important  of  the  bird's-nest  caves ;  Ross 
and  Elphinstone,  the  nearest  pearling-ground  to  Mergui ;  Sellore,  pro- 
tecting the  fisheries  of  Auckland  Bay ;  Domel,  between  which  and 
Kisseraing  is  the  difficult  channel  of  Celerity  Passage ;  Bentinck, 
farther  out,  and  the  Great  Western  Torres,  farther  still  to  sea  in 
970  30'  E. ;  Malcolm  and  Owen,  off  which  are  the  richest  pearling- 
grounds ;  Sullivan's,  little  known  except  to  the  Salons  ;  and  St.  Luke's 
and  St.  Matthew's,  forming,  with  Hastings  Island,  a  fine  natural 
harbour,  and  also  frequented  by  Salons.  Of  the  islands  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Pakchan  river  and  southwards,  the  outer  ones  generally  are 
British  and  those  near  the  coast  Siamese. 

Mergui  District.— Southernmost  District  of  Burma  and  of  the 
Tenasserim  Division,  extending  on  the  mainland  from  Myinmoletkat 
mountain  (130  28'  N.)  on  the  border  of  Tavoy  District  in  the  north 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Pakchan  river  (90  58'  N.)  and  the  Isthmus  of  Kra 
in  the  south,  and  including  the  islands  of  the  Mergui  Archipelago  from 
Tavoy  Island  to  the  Aladdin  Isles  in  90  38'  N.  On  the  east  it  is  con- 
terminous with  Siam,  and  at  one  point,  in  990  40'  E.,  the  Gulf  of  Siam 


294  MERGUI  DISTRICT 


is  only  10  miles  distant.     On  the  west  the  islands  streteh  out  as  far 

as  970  30'  E.     The  total  area  is  9,798  square  miles. 

North  of  Mergui  town  the  valley  of  the  Great  Tenasserim  river  is 

separated  from   the  sea  by  a  mountain  range,  culminating  in  Myin- 

moletkat,  6,800  feet  high,  on  the   northern  border. 

ysica  Between  this  range  and  the  coast  is  a  fertile  plain, 

aspects.  °  .  l 

intersected  by  small  streams  running  east  and  west, 

and  to  a  great  extent  cultivated.     The  rest  of  the  District  is  of  a  very 

different  character.     There  are  no  mountain  ranges  of  any  importance, 

and  such  level  lands  as  exist  are  mostly  covered  by  the  sea  at  high  tide 

or,  if  inland,  flooded  during  the  rains.      With  the  exception  of  the 

valleys  of  the  two  Tenasserim   rivers   and  the  Upper    Pakchan,  this 

part  of  the  District  is  generally  a  network  of  low   hills  fringed  with 

mangrove  swamps. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Great  Tenasserim,  rising  far  to  the  north, 
in  Tavoy,  and  entering  the  District  about  140  miles  above  Tenasserim 
village,  where  it  doubles  back  on  itself  and  flows  into  the  sea,  forming 
a  delta  round  Mergui  town ;  its  tributary,  the  Little  Tenasserim,  which 
joins  it  at  Tenasserim  village  after  a  northerly  course  from  the  Siam 
border;  the  Lenya,  to  the  south-west  of  the  Little  Tenasserim,  and 
nearly  parallel  with  it,  but  flowing  direct  into  the  sea  south  of  Mergui 
after  a  bend  to  the  north-west ;  and  the  Pakchan,  rising  in  the  same 
neighbourhood  as  the  Lenya,  but  flowing  south  to  Victoria  Point. 
The  District  is  thus,  with  the  exception  of  the  Palaw  township,  where 
a  few  streams  run  from  east  to  west,  a  system  of  rivers  flowing  from 
north  to  south  or  south  to  north,  except  where  a  bend  is  needed  to 
enable  them  to  reach  the  sea.  The  Mergui  Archipelago,  which 
stretches  down  the  entire  length  of  the  coast,  numbers  804  islands 
of  every  size,  from  King  Island,  with  an  area  of  1 70  square  miles,  to 
mere  rocks  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea.  Nearly  all  are  forest-clad,  and 
most  are  hilly,  often  fringed  with  mangrove  swamps,  but  occasionally 
displaying  a  yellow  beach  of  sand  or  pebble.  With  the  exception  of 
King  Island,  which  is  partly  cultivated  by  Burmans  and  Karens,  and 
some  fishing  villages,  more  or  less  deserted  during  the  monsoon,  on 
the  shores  of  Kisseraing  and  Sellore,  the  islands  are  almost  unin- 
habited, but  for  the  Salons  or  sea-gipsies  who  wander  among  them. 
A  remarkable  feature  of  the  coast  scenery  is  the  presence  of  limestone 
cliffs,  towering  sheer  out  of  the  water  for  several  hundred  feet,  and 
forming  caves  which  recall  the  interior  of  a  Gothic  cathedral,  while 
others  enclose  lakes  accessible  only  at  low  tide  through  a  tunnel  in 
the  rock.  They  are  the  home  of  the  tiny  swift  that  builds  the  edible 
bird's-nest  of  commerce. 

Coal,  tin,  gold,  and  other  minerals  are  found  in  the  District.  They 
are  referred  to  in  detail  in  a  later  paragraph.     The  coals  of  Theindaw 


PHYSICAL   ASPECTS  295 

and  Kawmapyin  on  the  Great  Tenasserim  are  found  in  association  with 
shales,  sandstones,  and  conglomerates,  which  form  a  Tertiary  basin. 
The  Moulmein  group  of  beds  constitute  the  greater  portion  of  the 
sedimentary  rocks.  Under  these  is  the  Mergui  group,  a  series  of 
essentially  pseudomorphic  sedimentary  beds,  with  imbedded  fragments 
of  felspar  which  have  so  far  been  noticed  only  near  Mergui.  Rocks  of 
the  gneissic  series  with  granite,  &c,  also  occur.  It  is  from  the  disin- 
tegration of  this  granitic  rock  that  the  tin  ores  are  derived. 

The  flora  resembles  generally  that  of  the  adjoining  District  of 
Tavoy.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  swamp  vegetation.  Canes  are  abun- 
dant. The  thin  reed  grows  in  the  valley  of  the  Little  Tenasserim. 
The  principal  timber  trees  are  referred  to  under  the  head  of  Forests 
below. 

The  District  swarms  with  monkeys,  especially  the  fisher-monkey 
(Macacus  cynomolgus),  which  may  be  seen  in  great  numbers  on  the 
banks  of  the  Palaw  river  cracking  cockle-shells  by  means  of  stones ; 
and  the  white-handed  gibbon  (Hylobates  lar),  usually  black  but  some- 
times light  brown,  with  whose  cries  the  forests  everywhere  resound  at 
sunrise.  Elephants,  tigers,  sambar,  barking-deer,  and  hog  are  plentiful, 
and  rhinoceros  and  bison  are  also  found.  The  Malay  tapir,  which  is 
hardly  known  north  of  the  Tavoy  river,  has  been  seen  in  Tenasserim. 
Game-birds  are  less  plentiful  than  in  the  delta  Districts.  The  Archi- 
pelago abounds  with  fish,  prawns,  and  shrimps,  especially  in  the  muddy 
waters  between  Mergui  and  the  mouth  of  the  Lenya  river.  The  clearer 
waters  yield  the  pearl  mollusc  and  other  shell-fish  of  economic  value. 
Whales  are  frequently  seen  among  the  islands,  and  have  given  its  name 
to  Whale  Bay  in  the  middle  of  the  Archipelago. 

The  District  is  unusually  healthy  for  a  tropical  country.  Malaria  is 
little  known,  even  in  the  lowlands  at  the  foot  of  hills,  where  its  most 
deadly  form  is  usually  looked  for.  Situated  on  a  peninsula  between 
two  great  seas,  with  no  high  mountain  range  to  keep  off  the  winds  from 
the  Gulf  of  Siam,  its  climate  is  always  mild  and  moist.  The  mean 
maximum  temperature  at  Mergui  town  is  highest  in  April  (93°)  and 
lowest  in  August  (850),  and  the  mean  minimum  ranges  from  68°  in 
December  to  750  in  April  and  May. 

The  rainfall  at  Mergui  town  during  the  five  years  ending  1901 
averaged  103  inches,  and  at  Victoria  Point  about  the  same.  A  strip 
of  the  District,  about  10  miles  wide,  from  Bokpyin  to  Ross  and  Elphin- 
stone  Islands,  was  devastated  on  May  4,  1902,  by  a  cyclone,  which 
denuded  the  hills  of  forest  and  utterly  destroyed  any  village  that  lay 
in  its  path.  Fortunately  the  tract  is  thinly  populated;  but  many 
fishing-boats  were  lost,  and  a  part  of  the  pearling  fleet  anchored  near 
Ross  Island  was  destroyed. 

Mergui  has  for  most  of  its  known  history  been  a  Siamese  province. 


296  MERGUI  DISTRICT 

with  its  capital  at  Tenasserim.  The  latter  may  possibly  be  identical 
with  Tun  Sun,  mentioned  in  the  Chinese  annals  of  the  Liang  dynasty 
(a.d.  502-56)  as  the  terminus  of  a  trade  route  on  the 
western  side  of  the  Malay  Peninsula.  It  is  certain 
that  for  hundreds  of  years  Tenasserim  was  the  gateway  of  the  most 
direct  route  to  the  Far  East,  commodities  being  brought  to  it  by  sea 
from  India  and  the  Persian  Gulf  to  meet  those  carried  overland  from 
Siam  and  China.  From  early  in  the  fifteenth  century,  when  the  port 
was  visited  by  Nicolb  de'  Conti  the  Venetian,  till  the  massacre  of  1687 
described  below,  the  place  is  constantly  mentioned  by  travellers  and 
merchants  as  a  great  port.  Abdur  Razzak  of  Samarkand  includes  the 
inhabitants  of  Tenasserim  among  the  people  to  be  seen  at  Ormuz 
in  1442.  Early  in  the  sixteenth  century  it  is  described  in  the  voyages 
of  Tristan  d'Acunha  as  the  first  mart  for  spices  in  India,  and  Duarte 
Barbosa  says  its  ships  were  to  be  seen  at  Cape  Guardafui.  Large 
vessels  were  then  apparently  able  to  reach  Tenasserim,  though  it  is 
44  miles  up  the  river ;  and  goods  were  carried  thence  overland  to 
Ayuthia  and  the  Siamese  Gulf.  Mergui,  however,  seems  always  to 
have  been  its  seaport,  for  it  is  mentioned  by  Cesare  de'  Federici 
in  1568. 

Mergui  has  ever  been  a  battle-ground  of  the  rival  kingdoms  of  Burma 
and  Siam.  Cesare  said  in  1568,  'it  of  right  belongeth  to  the  kingdom 
of  Sion,'  but  whenever  there  was  a  strong  Burmese  king  it  became 
a  Burmese  province.  The  earliest  record  is  an  inscription  recently 
found  near  the  Shinkodaw  pagoda,  about  10  miles  from  Mergui.  It  is 
dated  631  b.  e.  (a.d.  1269),  and  records  a  gift  to  the  pagoda  by  Nga 
Pon,  the  Royal  Usurer  of  Tayokpyemin  ('  the  king  who  fled  from  the 
Chinese'),  who  reigned  at  Pagan  from  1248  to  1285. 

Siam  was  repeatedly  invaded  by  the  Burmans  under  Bayin  Naung, 
first  as  general  and  then  as  king,  between  1548  and  1569,  and  in  the 
last  year  the  capital,  Ayuthia,  was  sacked.  It  is  during  this  period  that 
Cesare  de'  Federici  refers  to  Tenasserim  as  being  in  the  kingdom  of 
Pegu.  In  1587  Bayin  Naung's  son,  the  Yuva  Raja,  attempted  to 
imitate  the  exploits  of  his  father  ;  but  his  army  was  destroyed,  and 
another  expedition  ended  in  disaster  in  1593.  Soon  after  this  the 
Burmese  kingdom  was  broken  up,  and  Siam  enjoyed  peace,  so  far  as 
the  Burmans  were  concerned,  for  150  years,  until  the  rise  of  Alaung- 
paya.  In  1683  the  king  of  Siam  appointed  Richard  Burneby,  an 
ex-servant  of  the  East  India  Company,  as  governor  of  Mergui,  with 
Samuel  White  as  Shahbandar,  or  Port  Officer,  of  Mergui  and  Tenas- 
serim. A  number  of  English  traders  were  attracted  to  the  place,  and 
there  were  also  French,  Dutch,  and  Portuguese  settlements.  But  the 
East  India  Company  at  that  time  claimed  the  monopoly  of  all  trade  by 
Englishmen  with  the  East,  and  the  Council  at  Madras  determined  to 


HISTORY 


297 


eject  the  interlopers.  At  the  same  time  King  James  II  was  growing 
anxious  at  the  establishment  of  French  influence  at  the  Siamese  capital; 
and  in  1687  the  Curtana  arrived  outside  Mergui  with  letters  declaring 
war  on  Siam  pending  payment  of  compensation  for  injuries  done  to  the 
Company's  trade,  and  requiring  Burneby  and  White  to  send  all  the 
English  in  Mergui  on  board  the  frigate.  A  truce  of  sixty  days  was  at 
the  same  time  allowed.  During  the  truce  the  Siamese,  under  White's 
direction,  strengthened  their  defences  and  staked  the  river.  An  attempt 
by  the  commander  of  the  Curtana  to  remove  the  stakes  resulted  in 
a  general  massacre  of  the  Englishmen  in  Mergui,  only  three  escaping 
out  of  sixty.  After  this  the  French  became  supreme,  and  fortified 
themselves  in  the  town  :  but  in  1688,  as  the  result  of  a  palace  revolu- 
tion, they  were  attacked  and  driven  out.  For  the  next  seventy  years 
Siam  was  torn  by  incessant  civil  war,  and  a  further  blow  was  inflicted 
on  the  trade  of  Mergui  by  the  presence  of  pirates  of  all  nationalities. 
By  1757  Alaungpaya  had  become  all-powerful  in  Burma,  and  had 
founded  the  city  of  Rangoon.  The  usual  invasion  of  Siam  followed 
at  the  end  of  1759  by  way  of  Mergui  and  Tenasserim,  which  were 
occupied  without  resistance.  Ayuthia  was  reached,  but  the  siege  was 
abandoned  owing  to  the  illness  of  Alaungpaya,  who  died  on  the  march 
back  to  Burma.  In  1775,  however,  another  army  was  sent  by  his  son 
Sinbyushin  under  the  Burmese  general  Maha  Thihathura,  and  after 
a  siege  of  fifteen  months  the  city  was  utterly  destroyed.  The  Siamese 
founded  a  new  capital  at  Bangkok,  and  Tavoy  and  Mergui  remained  in 
possession  of  the  Burmans. 

In  1 786  Siam  was  invaded  by  Bodawpaya,  but  without  success,  and 
in  1792  the  people  of  Tavoy  rebelled  and  delivered  up  the  town  to  the 
Siamese.  It  Avas  soon  retaken,  and  Mergui,  which  had  been  success- 
fully held  by  the  Burmese  governor,  was  relieved.  Another  rebellion 
was  crushed  in  1808.  Soon  after  this,  friction  arose  between  the  British 
and  Burmese  Governments.  War  was  declared  in  1824,  which  resulted 
in  the  annexation  of  the  Arakan  and  Tenasserim  provinces  in  1826. 
In  October,  1824,  the  East  India  Company's  cruiser  Mercury,  with 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Miles  and  370  men  of  the  89th  Regiment,  appeared 
before  Mergui,  and  the  fort  was  carried  with  a  loss  of  six  men  killed 
and  two  officers  and  twenty-two  men  wounded.  In  1825  a  Siamese 
force  ravaged  the  country  about  Tenasserim,  but  was  driven  off;  and 
the  present  Mergui  subdivision,  almost  depopulated  by  incessant  wars 
and  rebellions,  at  last  enjoyed  a  long  period  of  tranquillity. 

The  principal  pagodas  are  the  Legyunsimi  at  Mergui,  built  in  17S5 
over  a  smaller  one  erected  soon  after  Alaungpaya's  invasion  ;  and 
the  Zedawun  pagoda,  said  to  date  from  1208,  situated  on  a  hill 
10  miles  up  the  Tenasserim  river  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
the  valley. 


298 


MERGUI  DISTRICT 


The  population  of  Mergui  District  has  increased  steadily  from  47,192 

_      ,  x.  in    1872  to   56,559   in   1881,    71,748  in   1891,   and 

Population.        00  • 

88,744  in  1901. 

The  principal  statistics  of  area  and  population  in  1901  are  given 

below  : — 


Township. 

V 

u 

a 

ST  8 

e~ 

-B 

V 

U 

< 

Number  of 

c 
0 

"3 

c 

0 

U 

g'i 

*  3 

Oh 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 

population  be- 
tween 1891 
and  1901. 

Number  of 

persons  able  to 

read  and 

write. 

GO 

B 

0 
H 

en 
U 

Mergui . 
Falaw    . 
Tenasserim    . 
Bokpyin 
Maliwun 

District  total 

1,879 

785 

4,033 
2,103 

989 
9,789 

I 

152 

"5 
114 

63 

41 

43,0-0 
22,442 
10,712 

7,255 
5,265 

23 
29 

3 
3 

5 

+  33 

+  15 

+  28 

+  26 
-32 

10,890 

2,728 

1,405 
1,856 

854 

I 

485 

88,744 

9 

+  20 

!7,733 

There  is  little  immigration,  and  the  mining  coolies  brought  from 
China  do  not  as  a  rule  settle  in  the  country.  A  large  proportion  of  the 
population  in  the  extreme  south  is  made  up,  however,  of  temporary 
immigrants,  and  the  fluctuations  in  this  source  of  supply  account  for 
the  diminution  that  took  place  in  the  sparsely  populated  Maliwun 
township  between  1891  and  1901.  Except  along  the  coast,  the  inhabi- 
tants are  very  scattered.  Burmese  is  almost  universally  spoken  in  the 
Mergui  township,  where  even  the  people  who  admit,  in  other  parts  of 
the  District,  kinship  with  pure  Siamese  call  themselves  Burmans.  They 
speak  a  dialect  understood  with  difficulty  by  an  ordinary  Burman,  with 
some  Siamese  words  and  idioms,  the  most  remarkable  of  the  latter 
being  the  inversion  of  the  parts  of  compound  verbs.  The  hard  con- 
sonants are  retained  as  in  Arakanese,  but  the  r  and  h  and  final  conso- 
nants practically  disappear.  In  Palaw  an  even  less  intelligible  dialect  of 
Burmese  is  spoken  by  two-thirds  of  the  population,  the  other  third  speak- 
ing Karen.  In  Tenasserim,  out  of  every  roo  persons  43  talk  Burmese, 
40  Siamese,  and  16  Karen.  Farther  south  Burmese  tends  to  disappear 
entirely,  Siamese,  Malay,  and  Chinese  being  the  languages  most  heard. 
According  to  religion,  about  87  per  cent,  of  the  people  are  Buddhists. 
There  are  a  few  Animists  and  Hindus,  but  most  of  the  non-Buddhist 
population  are  Musalmans,  who  numbered  about  7,000  in  1901. 

There  were  nearly  57,000  Burmans  in  1901,  about  2,000  Chinese, 
and  nearly  9,000  Siamese.  A  considerable  proportion  of  the  population 
in  the  town  and  the  mines  is  Baba  or  half-Chinese,  the  men  retaining 
the  pigtail,  but  talking  Burmese  or  Siamese,  and  the  women  wearing 
the  dress  of  their  mothers.  Of  the  Musalmans,  between  2,000  and 
3,000  are  Malays  and  the  rest  nearly  all  Zairbadis. 

Living  in  boats  among  the  islands  is  a  wild  people  of  obscure  origin 


AGRICULTURE 


299 


called  by  the  Burmese  Salons,  by  the  Malays  Orang  basin,  by  the 
Siamese  Chaunam  (' waterfolk '),  and  by  themselves  Mawken  ('drowned 
in  the  sea ').  The  Salons  are  expert  divers  and  swimmers,  and  the 
supply  of  green  snails  and  beche-de-mer  is  obtained  entirely  through 
them.  Their  language  has  hitherto  generally  been  regarded  as  akin  to 
Malay,  but  according  to  a  recent  view  it  is  an  entirely  independent 
form  of  speech,  most  nearly  related  to  the  Cham  of  Cambodia. 

Two-thirds  of  the  total  population  of  the  District  are  agricultural. 
Outside  Mergui  the  Burmans  are  husbandmen  or  fishermen,  the 
Siamese  mostly  agriculturists  with  a  few  miners,  the  Chinese  usually 
miners,  and  the  Karens  all  agriculturists. 

The  Christian  population  in  1901  numbered  2,215.  Of  these,  2,135 
were  natives,  mostly  Karens  in  the  Palaw  and  Mergui  townships,  where 
the  American  Baptist  Union  started  work  in  1837. 

There  is  little  of  special  interest  to  note  in  connexion  with  the  agri- 
cultural methods  obtaining  in  the  District.  The  use  of  the  plough  is 
practically  unknown.  In  some  parts  a  harrow  with 
a  single  tooth  is  used ;  but  the  Siamese  of  the 
Pakchan  and  other  parts  do  nothing  but  tread  out  the  soil  with  buffa- 
loes, and  this  practice  is  followed  by  the  Burmans  on  low-lying  lands. 
Fruit  trees  are  planted  in  pits  filled  with  burnt  earth,  which  is  also,  with 
cattle-dung,  used  as  manure  after  the  young  tree  has  been  planted  out. 

The  area  permanently  cultivated  is  small.  About  one-third  of  it  lies 
in  the  Palaw  township,  rather  more  than  a  half  in  the  basin  of  the 
Tenasserim  river,  and  the  rest  in  the  valley  of  the  Pakchan. 

The  following  table  shows  the  main  agricultural  statistics  for  1903-4, 
in  square  miles  : — 


Township. 


Mergui 

Palaw 

Tenasserim 

Bokpyin 

Maliwun 


Total 


Total 
area. 


1,879 

4>°33 
2,103 

989 
9.789 


Cultivated. 


64 

37 
22 

9 

7 


Forests. 


5,600 


139 


3,600 


In  the  area  under  rice,  which  comprises  about  three-fourths  of  the 
whole,  the  soil  is  generally  rich,  except  in  the  Tenasserim  township, 
where  it  is  inclined  to  be  sandy.  About  7  per  cent,  of  the  cultivated 
area  is  planted  with  the  dani  palm  {Nipd),  which  is  at  its  best  in  this 
District.  It  is  grown  on  mud-banks  in  tidal  creeks,  which  are  covered 
with  water,  more  or  less  salt,  at  high  tide.  The  leaves  of  this  palm  are 
used  for  the  roofs  and  walls  of  houses,  and  its  juice  for  making  toddy 
and  jaggery  sugar.     About  18  per  cent,  of  the  cropped  land  consists 

vol.  xvii.  u 


3oo  MERGUI  DISTRICT 

of  fruit  orchards,  usually  on  undulating  land  or  the  lower  slopes  of  hills. 
The  soil  is  particularly  well  suited  for  areca  palms  and  durians.  There 
are  12,640  rice  holdings  and  14,200  assessed  orchards,  but  to  the  latter 
must  be  added  a  very  large  number  of  gardens  of  less  than  a  quarter 
of  an  acre,  which  are  not  assessed.  Of  the  area  under  rice,  nearly  half 
is  in  the  Mergui  township  and  one-fourth  in  Palaw.  More  than  6,000 
acres,  of  which  4,800  are  in  the  Mergui  township,  are  under  the  dani 
palm.  Nearly  2,000  acres  in  Palaw,  and  about  the  same  area  in  Mergui, 
are  planted  with  areca  palms.  Durians  cover  a  similar  area  in  the 
Mergui  township,  and  coco-nuts  1,600  acres  in  the  District  as  a  whole. 

Very  little  is  done  to  improve  the  methods  of  husbandry,  but  con- 
siderable progress  has  been  made  in  bringing  fresh  land  under  culti- 
vation. The  cultivated  area  was  62  square  miles  in  1881,  81  in  1891, 
134  in  1 90 1,  and  139  in  1903-4.  The  area  under  rice  has  more  than 
doubled,  and  that  of  orchards  nearly  trebled,  during  the  past  twenty 
years.     The  increase  has  been  most  marked  in  Palaw. 

Buffaloes  are  practically  the  only  cattle  known  outside  Mergui  town. 
They  are  bred  locally  and  are  of  a  good  quality. 

The  number  of  persons  engaged  in  or  dependent  upon  fishing  is 
between  10,000  and  11,000,  or  about  one-eighth  of  the  population.    All 
.  ,     .  the  fisheries  are  in  the  sea.    The  principal  implements 

are  the  sanda  (the  hauling  net)  and  the  gawa.  The 
first  is  a  lofty  rectangular  structure  of  wooden  piles,  often  supporting 
a  small  house  in  one  corner,  and  provided  with  long  wings  of  saplings, 
which  sometimes  extend  for  half  a  mile.  An  immense  net  is  lowered 
from  it  by  means  of  pulleys,  and  into  this  fish  or  prawns  are  swept  by 
the  tide.  The  larger  fish  are  dried  on  bamboo  platforms ;  the  prawns 
are  boiled  and  similarly  dried,  after  which  the  shells  are  removed  by 
being  beaten  in  a  bag,  and  go  to  feed  the  pigs  or  to  manure  the  land  of 
the  Chinese  in  the  Straits.  Long  rows  of  sandas  stand  in  the  fair 
season  across  the  vast  shallows  of  Whale  and  Auckland  Bays,  and  as 
many  as  120  may  be  seen  at  once.  The  gaiv  a  is  a  triangular  net  form- 
ing a  kind  of  scoop,  which  a  man  pushes  before  him  in  shallow  water, 
towing  a  canoe  at  the  same  time.  It  is  used  only  for  collecting  shrimps, 
which  are  made  into  a  paste  and  exported  largely  to  Rangoon,  where 
this  paste  is  regarded  as  the  finest  kind  of  ngapi. 

Next  to  sea-fishing  proper,  the  principal  maritime  industry  is  pearling. 
Before  1893  a  certain  number  of  pearls  were  obtained  by  the  Salons, 
who  are  capable  of  diving  to  a  depth  of  5  fathoms  or  more  without 
apparatus.  The  richness  of  the  beds  was  little  suspected,  however, 
until  a  Singapore  company  obtained  a  lease  in  that  year  of  part  of  the 
Archipelago,  and  started  operations  with  diving  gear  and  Filipino, 
Malay,  and  Japanese  divers.  This  attracted  a  number  of  pearlers  from 
the  Australian  fisheries,  to  whom  they  sublet  their  rights.     Meantime 


FISHERIES  30  r 

Chinese  pump-owners  began  work  in  other  parts  of  the  Archipelago, 
and  in  1898  a  Chinese  syndicate  obtained  a  lease  of  the  entire  area. 
The  white  pearlers  continued  work  for  a  time  under  this  syndicate  ; 
but  the  supply  of  shell,  on  which,  rather  than  the  pearls,  they  depended 
for  their  profits,  had  greatly  diminished,  and  by  1900  all  had  left. 
Their  place  was  taken  by  Chinese,  Zairbadis,  and  Burmans  of  Mergui, 
who  were  attracted  by  the  gambling  nature  of  the  industry,  were 
content  with  smaller  average  profits,  and  above  all  were  better  able  to 
check  their  divers.  It  is  impossible  for  the  pump-owner  to  prevent 
peculation  unless  he,  or  some  one  he  can  trust,  travels  in  each  diving- 
boat.  Ostensibly  the  shells  are  opened  only  in  the  owner's  presence, 
but  it  is  a  very  easy  matter  for  the  diver  to  test  one  for  pearls  and 
reclose  it. 

Since  1900  licences  have  been  issued  at  a  fixed  fee  of  Rs.  400  per 
pump,  the  licensee  working  where  he  pleases ;  and  this  system  has 
proved  more  satisfactory  than  the  old  one  of  auctioned  leases.  The 
exports  of  shell  declined  from  414  tons  in  the  year  ending  March, 
1895,  to  71  tons  in  1905  ;  but  the  price  of  both  shell  and  pearls  had 
meanwhile  risen,  and  in  1905  there  were  77  pumps  at  work.  The 
finest  pearl  yet  found  in  the  beds,  so  far  as  is  known,  is  a  drop  pearl 
weighing  34  carats  and  sold  at  Singapore  for  $16,000  in  1902,  but 
a  smaller  pearl  fetched  Rs.  30,500  at  Mergui  in  1904.  The  shell  is 
usually  found  in  waters  from  18  to  23  fathoms  deep.  The  best  grounds 
are  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Owen  and  Malcolm  Islands,  about  100 
miles  south  of  Mergui ;  but  diving  is  also  carried  on  near  Ross  and 
Elphinstone,  30  miles  west  of  the  town.  Mr.  Jardine,  an  Australian 
pearler,  in  a  report  prepared  for  Government  in  1894,  pronounced  the 
shells  to  be  very  fine  specimens  of  the  true  mother-of-pearl  shell  of 
commerce  {Meleagrina  margaritifera),  weighing  on  the  average  600  to 
the  ton.  In  the  month  ending  January  16,  1894,  eighteen  boats 
brought  up  20,000  shells  weighing  34^  tons,  and  containing  pearls  of 
an  estimated  value  of  £2,600. 

Other  maritime  products  of  the  District  are  green  snails  {Turbo 
marmoratus),  the  shells  of  which  are  exported  for  conversion  into 
imitation  mother-of-pearl ;  trochus,  a  conical  shell  of  smaller  size  :  and 
sea-slugs  or  beche-de-mer,  which,  with  the  contents  of  the  snail-shells, 
are  exported  to  the  Straits  for  the  delectation  of  the  Chinese  palate. 

Among  maritime  products,  since  they  are  found  in  caves  far  out  to 
sea,  may  be  included  edible  birds'-nests,  of  which  20  viss  (73  lb.)  of 
the  finest  quality,  valued  in  Penang  at  Rs.  4,000,  were  collected  in 
a  single  day  in  April,  1903,  from  one  of  the  rocky  islets  near  Tavoy 
Island.  The  nests,  which  are  milk-white  and  shaped  like  the  half  of 
a  diminutive  basin  glued  to  the  rock,  are,  it  is  believed,  made  with  the 
saliva  of  a  small  species  of  swift  {Collocalia  francica),  which  sleeps  in 

u  2 


302  MERGUI  DISTRICT 

the   caves    hut   spends   the  day,  when   not  actually  at  work,   high  up 

in  the  sky.     The  nests  are  to  be  found  only  in  the  most  inaccessible 

corners  of  the  caves,  at  a  height  sometimes  of  several  hundred  feet. 

Three  collections  are  made  during  the  fair  season,  lasting  respectively 

four,  seven,  and  three  days.     The  birds  rebuild    their  nests  in  the 

intervals,  and  only  the  last  made  are  available  for  rearing  their  young. 

The  best  quality  is  obtained  from  the  second  collection. 

Practically  the  whole   District,   with  the  exception   of  139   square 

miles  of  cultivation   and   perhaps   a   similar   extent    of  old    taungya 

clearings,  is  under  dense  forests  ;  and  of  this  a  large 
Forests.  ,  •  >  -i         • 

part,    approaching    perhaps    1,000   square    miles,    is 

mangrove.     The  area  treated  as  forest  by  the  department  is  about 

5,600  square  miles  in  extent,  but  only  330  square  miles  of  this  total 

are   'reserved.'     The  forests  are  not  generally  valuable,  and  teak  is 

unknown ;  but  the  lofty  kanyin-tree  {Dipterocarpus  laevis)  yields  an  oil 

largely  used  in  the  manufacture  of  torches ;  the  wood  of  the  thingan 

(Uopea  odorata)  is,  owing  to  its  elasticity,  unequalled  for  boats  ;  and 

kyathnan  or  pink-on  (Carapa  moluccensis),  anan   (Fagraea  fragrans), 

hmanthin  {Curcuma  Roscoeana),  kanazo  (Bassia  longi folia),  and  kokko 

(Albizzia  lebbek)  are  all  useful  timbers.    Fyingado  (Xyiia  dolabriformis) 

is  plentiful  in  the  extreme  north.     Kalamet  (Santalum  sp.),  found  on 

a  branch  of  the  Little  Tenasserim  on  the  border  of  Siam,  is  prized  for 

its  fragrance.     The  precious  scented  wood-aloes,  or  eagle-wood,  the 

diseased  heart-wood  of  the  akyaw  tree  {Aquilaria  Aga/iocha),  is  still  an 

article  of  commerce,  though  not  so  plentiful  as  formerly  ;  and  sappan 

wood,  once  the  most  famous  product  of  the  District,  exists  in  the 

Tenasserim  township,  but  is  not  now  worked.     Pzvenyet,  the  resinous 

nest  of  the  Trigona  laeviceps,  or  dammer  bee,  makes  valuable  caulking 

for  boats  when  mixed  with  earth-oil.     Rubber  exists  in  a  wild  state 

in  some  parts  of  the  District ;  and  the  Hevea  brazi/iensis,  introduced 

by  the  Government  from  Kew   Gardens   in    1878,   is  yielding   good 

results  in  an  experimental  plantation  near  Mergui.     The  outside  of  the 

stem   of  the  Phrynium  dichotomum,   called    by  the   Burmese  thin,  is 

exported  in  large  quantities  to  Danubyu  to  be  made  into  the  mats  for 

which  that   place  is  famous.     The  vast  mangrove  forests  are  being 

utilized,    their   bark    yielding    a   kind   of   tannin   which  is  known  in 

Europe  as  cutch,  though  inferior  to  the  genuine  article,  the  produce 

of  the  Acacia  Catechu. 

The  existence  of  tin  in  Mergui  District  came  to  the  notice  of  the 

Government    of    India    soon   after    the    annexation    of    Tenasserim. 

Favourable  reports  were  made  in  184 1-3  by  Colonel 

Tremenheere,    and   in   1855    by   Dr.   Oldham,    but 

without   practical  results.     In  1873  the  mining  rights  in  the  Maliwun 

township  were  leased  to  a  Rangoon  firm,  who  introduced  European 


MINERALS  303 

machinery,  but  retired  in  1877  after  incurring  heavy  loss.  This  is 
explained  partly  by  the  want  of  good  expert  advice  and  partly  by  the 
employment  of  Indian  coolies,  who  were  unable  to  stand  the  hard 
work  and  exposure.  Various  officers  have  since  then  been  deputed 
to  examine  and  report  on  the  mines.  The  backward  condition  of 
Maliwun,  so  far  as  Chinese  immigration  is  concerned,  is  perhaps  due 
to  the  unsuitability  of  our  laws,  which  the  Government  is  reluctant  to 
suspend  in  so  comparatively  small  an  area  for  the  sake  of  an  industry 
which  has  as  yet  attained  no  great  importance.  In  1895  the  Jelebu 
Mining  Company  started  operations,  but  used  only  Chinese  methods 
for  the  extraction  of  the  tin,  and  retired  in  1898.  In  1901  a  concession 
of  4  square  miles  was  granted,  but  cancelled  in  1903,  as  the  con- 
cessionaires had  not  found  sufficient  capital  to  work  the  lode. 

Tin  ore  may  be  found:  (1)  in  the  original  lode;  (2)  in  the  masses 
of  decomposed  rock  on  the  sides  of  hills ;  (3)  deposited  beneath 
a  layer  of  silt  on  low-lying  lands,  to  which  it  has  been  carried  by  the 
action  of  water ;  and  (4)  in  the  beds  of  streams.  Of  these  four  classes, 
the  first  can  be  worked  only  with  the  aid  of  explosives  and  expensive 
machinery,  which  are  now  being  introduced  by  a  European  firm.  The 
second  class  may  be  worked  on  a  large  scale,  by  sluicing  away  the  side 
of  a  hill  with  water  forced  through  pipes.  The  Chinese  are  described 
as  picking  out  the  eyes  of  the  hills  with  picks  and  crowbars,  thus 
obtaining  a  rich  out-turn  with  comparatively  little  labour,  but  spoiling 
the  ground  for  those  who  come  after  them.  Their  usual  method, 
however,  is  lampan  working,  in  which  a  small  stream  is  diverted  to  the 
piece  of  land  to  be  worked,  and  the  overburden  or  overlying  earth  is 
removed  by  the  force  of  the  water  assisted  by  cross  channels  cut  in 
the  shape  of  a  gridiron.  In  the  third  class  the  overburden  has  to  be 
removed  by  manual  labour  before  the  ore  can  be  extracted.  Here 
again  the  ground  is  apt  to  be  spoilt  by  the  practice  of  fossicking,  in 
which,  instead  of  the  overburden  being  removed  continuously,  pits 
about  6  feet  wide  are  dug  in  it  and  allowed  to  fall  in  after  the  wash 
dirt,  or  tin-bearing  mass,  has  been  removed  from  the  bottom.  No 
objection  can  be  urged  against  the  practice  of  panning,  or  washing  in 
the  beds  of  streams,  the  last  of  the  four  classes.  This  has  been  com- 
pared to  gleaning,  and  is  carried  on  chiefly  by  Mala)-  and  Siamese 
women,  who  are  said  to  earn  sometimes  a  dollar  a  day  in  this  fashion. 

The  ore,  after  being  cleaned  by  the  action  of  running  water,  is 
smelted  at  or  near  the  mines  in  clay  furnaces,  and  exported  to  Penang 
or  Rangoon  in  blocks  weighing  about  a  hundredweight.  The  labour 
is  mainly  Chinese,  but  some  of  the  small  outlying  mines  are  worked 
by  Siamese.  The  monthly  wage  for  unattached  Chinese  coolies  is 
Rs.  20,  with  board  and  lodging ;  but  the  large  mines  are  worked  by 
labour  imported  under  contract,  the  usual  rate  being  100  Straits  dollars 


304  MERGUI  DISTRICT 

a  year,  all  found.  The  importation  is  done  through  the  Chinese 
Protectorate  at  Penang,  the  coolies  being  bound  by  written  contract 
to  work  for  periods  extending  from  one  to  three  years.  The  annual 
out-turn  of  tin  for  some  years  past  has  been  about  60  tons,  paying  a 
royalty  of  rather  over  Rs.  3,500. 

The  District  yields  about  500  tons  of  salt  yearly,  produced  at  Palaw 
in  the  Palaw  township.  More  than  fifty  families  are  employed  in  the 
brine-boiling  business.  The  water  of  a  tidal  creek  is  diverted  into 
fields  of  impervious  clay,  in  which  it  is  confined  by  means  of  small 
ridges.  The  fields  are  of  different  heights,  and  the  water  remains  a 
day  or  two  in  each  till  the  evaporation  caused  by  the  heat  of  the  sun 
has  converted  it  into  brine.  It  is  then  run  into  a  tank,  from  which  it  is 
eventually  ladled  into  an  iron  pan,  4  feet  square,  placed  over  a  furnace. 
The  salt  is  scraped  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Duty  is  levied  at 
8  annas  a  maund  of  82  lb.     The  industry  was  first  introduced  in  1896. 

On  the  Great  Tenasserim  river,  between  120  20'  and  120  30'  N.,  is 
a  bed  of  coal  estimated  to  contain  not  less  than  a  million  tons.  It  has 
been  calculated  that  the  outside  cost  of  placing  the  coal  at  Mergui 
would  be  Rs.  7-1 2  a  ton.  The  coal  is  said  to  be  superior  in  quality  to 
most  Indian  coals ;  but  no  serious  attempt  has  yet  been  made  to  work 
the  field,  though  two  prospecting  licences  have  recently  been  issued. 

Gold  exists  in  many  places,  but  not,  so  far  as  is  known,  in  paying 
quantities.  A  practically  inexhaustible  supply  of  iron,  though  not  of 
very  good  quality,  is  reported  on  the  island  of  Kalagyun,  about  8  miles 
west  of  Mergui  by  sea.  On  Maingy  Island  Mr.  Mark  Fryar  in  1872 
discovered  the  existence  of  a  valuable  lode  of  lead  (galena)  containing 
11  oz.  of  silver  per  ton,  but  most  of  it  below  the  sea.  An  outcrop 
inland,  however,  has  recently  been  found,  and  some  of  the  ore  has 
been  sent  to  England  for  examination.  Graphite  exists  on  the  almost 
unexplored  island  of  Kisseraing,  and  manganese  at  places  on  the 
Great  Tenasserim.  The  Marble  Isles,  between  Kisseraing  and  Domel, 
are  composed  of  marble  of  a  coarse  quality,  suitable  for  building. 

The  richness  of  Mergui  in  natural  products  and  the  sparseness  of 
its  population  account  for  the  almost  total  absence  of  arts  or  manu- 
factures  of  any  kind.     A    notable   instance   of  the 

a.  a"r        lack  of  manufacturing  enterprise  is  the  fact  that  thin. 
communications.  .  °  *  ' 

the  fine  reed  of  which  the  famous  mats  of  Danubyu 
are  made,  is  largely  exported  to  Central  Burma,  and  comes  back  into 
the  District  in  the  form  of  mats. 

The  trade  of  the  District  is  carried  on  entirely  by  sea.  Nearly  all 
of  it  passes  through  the  port  of  Mergui.  Other  ports  are  Palaw  and 
Victoria  Point,  but  their  trade  is  insignificant. 

The  British  India  Steam  Navigation  Company  runs  a  weekly  steamer 
from  Rangoon,  calling  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tavoy  river,  and  a  fort- 


ADMINISTRATION  305 

nightly  coasting  steamer  from  Moulmein.  The  trade  with  Penang  and 
intervening  ports  to  the  south  is  very  inadequately  served  by  a  single 
boat  of  194  tons,  belonging  to  a  Chinese  firm  in  Penang.  This 
steamer  is  the  sole  means  of  communication  with  Victoria  Point, 
the  head-quarters  of  the  southern  subdivision.  A  weekly  service  with 
Tenasserim  is  kept  up  by  means  of  small  native  boats,  and  with  Palaw 
by  the  police  boat  and  the  Moulmein  coasting  steamer,  which  also 
runs  on  to  Bokpyin.  Road  communications  hardly  exist,  mainly  owing 
to  the  abundance  of  waterways.  Roads  from  Mergui  to  Palaw,  and 
from  Bokpyin  to  the  newly  opened  mines  at  Yanngwa,  are  in  course  of 
construction  ;  and  a  survey  has  been  made  from  Victoria  Point  to  the 
Maliwun  tin  mines,  which  have  already  4  miles  of  metalled  road. 

The  District  has  two  subdivisions,  one  of  which,  Mergui,  is  divided 
into  the  townships  of  Mergui,  Palaw,  Tenasserim,  and  Bokpyin, 
each  under  a  township  officer.  The  other  subdivision, 
called  Victoria  Point,  consists  of  a  single  township, 
Maliwun,  which  has  no  separate  township  officer.  Below  the  town- 
ship officers  are  128  village  headmen.  These  are  taking  the  place  of 
the  old  circle  thugyis,  of  whom,  however,  five  still  remain.  The  District 
forms  a  portion  of  the  Amherst  Public  Works  division  (head-quarters, 
Moulmein)  and  of  the  South  Tenasserim  Forest  division  (head-quarters, 
Tavoy).  The  Deputy-Commissioner,  in  addition  to  his  judicial  and 
revenue  duties,  discharges  those  of  Collector  of  Customs  and  Port 
Officer. 

For  judicial  purposes  the  District  forms  part  of  the  Tenasserim  civil 
and  sessions  division.  The  Deputy-Commissioner  is  District  Magistrate 
and  District  Judge.  The  Mergui  township  court  is  presided  over  by 
a  judge,  who  sits  for  fifteen  days  in  the  month  at  Tavoy  and  for  fifteen 
at  Mergui,  but  the  subdivisional  and  the  other  township  courts  are 
presided  over  by  the  executive  officers.  Outside  Mergui  there  is  not 
much  litigation  and  but  little  crime ;  but  assaults  of  a  serious  nature 
are  common,  and  theft  is  prevalent  in  the  town,  where  there  is  a  large 
and  turbulent  population  of  Zairbadis.  Opium  smuggling  on  a  large 
scale  was  carried  on  in  former  years  by  junks  from  Penang,  but  has 
been  almost  entirely  suppressed  by  the  excise  staff  appointed  in  1902. 
Cattle-theft  is  practically  unknown.  The  Deputy-Commissioner  is 
Political  Officer  for  Renong  and  other  Siamese  States ;  and,  owing 
to  the  cordial  co-operation  of  the  Siamese  authorities,  the  gangs  of 
border  robbers  who  infested  the  Pakchan  river  have  long  since  dis- 
appeared. 

When  the  British  annexed  the  District  the  revenue  was  very  small, 
as  might  be  expected  in  a  country  where  the  original  population  had 
been,  to  a  great  extent,  exterminated  within  the  previous  sixty  years. 
In  1854-5,  the  earliest  year  for  which  there  are  reliable  data,  the  land 


3°6 


MERGUI  DISTRICT 


revenue  was  Rs.  26,000.  The  following  table  shows,  in  thousands 
of  rupees,  the  growth  under  the  main  heads  of  revenue  since 
1S80-1  :— 


1 880- 1. 

1890-1. 

1900-1. 

1903^4. 

Land  revenue  . 
Fisheries 
Total  revenue  . 

83 

12 

2,01 

98 

22 

2,77 

1,58 

70 
5.28 

1.66 
90 

5.16 

The  District  has  not  been  settled.  A  cadastral  survey  of  577  square 
miles  was  made  between  1891  and  1894,  but  there  are  still  about 
10,000  acres  of  permanent  cultivation  not  regularly  surveyed.  A  topo- 
graphical survey  of  3,211  square  miles,  on  the  scale  of  one  inch  to 
the  mile,  embracing  most  of  the  tin-mining  areas,  was  carried  out 
between  1889  and  1893.  Orchards  in  the  Mergui  township  pay 
Rs.  3  per  acre;  rice  land,  Rs.  2  or  Rs.  r-12;  and  vegetables,  tobacco, 
&c,  R.  1.  In  the  thinly  populated  tracts  the  rates  are  less  by  about 
half. 

The  District  cess  fund  had  an  income  in  1903-4  of  Rs.  18,700, 
which  is  devoted  to  education  and  the  maintenance  of  village  headmen, 
roads,  and  bungalows.     Mergui  Town  is  the  only  municipality. 

The  civil  police  force  consists  of  3  inspectors,  6  head  constables, 
19  sergeants,  and  180  men,  under  the  District  Superintendent.  Siamese 
are  usually  employed  in  Bokpyin  and  Maliwun.  There  are  also 
100  military  police,  employed  in  guarding  treasure  and  escort  duty. 
A  police  station  has  been  established  at  every  township  head-quarters, 
with  additional  posts  at  Palauk,  Lenya,  and  Marang.  Besides  the 
training  depot  at  Mergui  town,  a  police  school  has  been  established 
at  Victoria  Point  for  Siamese  constables.  Mergui  town  has  a  jail,  with 
accommodation  for  74  prisoners.  The  average  number  of  inmates  is 
about  40.  Long-term  prisoners  are  removed  to  other  jails  to  serve 
out  their  sentences. 

The  standard  of  education  is  comparatively  low  for  Burma.  In 
1 90 1  only  20  per  cent.  (33-3  males  and  5-4  females)  were  returned  as 
able  to  read  and  write.  In  1904  there  were  7  secondary,  45  primary, 
and  59  elementary  (private)  schools,  with  3,775  pupils  (including 
542  girls)  on  their  rolls.  The  number  of  pupils  has  risen  to  this 
figure  from  1,985  in  1891  and  2,379  in  1901.  The  total  expenditure 
on  education  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  13,800,  of  which  Provincial  funds 
provided  Rs.  4,200  ;  municipal  fund,  Rs.  3,600 ;  fees,  Rs.  3,600 ; 
and  the  District  cess  fund,  Rs.  2,400. 

The  District  contains  2  hospitals,  with  accommodation  for  34  in- 
patients. In  1903  the  number  of  cases  treated  was  12,846,  of  whom 
512  were  in-patients,  and  383  operations  were  performed.  The  total 
cost  was  Rs.  6,000,  chiefly  met  from  Local  funds. 


MERGUI   TOWN  307 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  in  Mergui  town.  In  1903-4  the 
number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  was  4,388,  representing 
49  per  1,000  of  population. 

[Captain  J.  Butler,  Mergui  District  Gazetteer  (1884).] 

Mergui  Subdivision. — Subdivision  of  Mergui  District,  Lower 
Burma,  consisting  of  the  Mergui,  Palaw,  Tenasserim,  and  Bokpyin 
townships. 

Mergui  Township. — Township  of  Mergui  District,  Lower  Burma, 
comprising  the  most  important  islands  of  the  Archipelago  and  a  small 
piece  of  the  mainland  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Mergui.  It  extends 
from  ii°  25'  to  120  47"  N.  and  from  970  30'  to  98°58/  E.,  with  an  area 
of  1,879  square  miles.  The  eastern  islands,  lying  at  the  mouths  of  the 
Tenasserim  and  Lenya  rivers,  are  in  muddy  waters  teeming  with  fish. 
They  support  a  large  fishing  population,  but  only  King  Island  is  culti- 
vated. The  population  was  32,448  in  1891,  and  43,070  in  1901,  when 
the  township  contained  152  villages  and  hamlets,  besides  Mergui 
Town  (population,  11,987),  the  head-quarters.  Outside  the  town 
90  per  cent,  of  the  people  speak  Burmese,  the  rest  being  Karens, 
Chinese,  or  Salons.  Of  the  Burmans,  nearly  half  are  fishermen.  The 
cultivated  area  in  1903-4  was  64  square  miles,  of  which  about  41  square 
miles  were  under  rice,  and  the  rest  orchards  and  palm  groves.  The 
land  revenue  in  the  same  year  amounted  to  Rs.  94,400. 

Mergui  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  District  of  the  same  name  in 
Lower  Burma,  situated  in  120  26'  N.  and  980  36'  E.,  on  the  Tenasserim 
coast,  just  outside  the  principal  mouth  of  the  Tenasserim  river,  and 
protected  by  the  little  hill-island  of  Pataw,  which  helps  to  form  a  good 
natural  harbour,  and  farther  out  by  a  ring  of  islands  to  the  south  and 
west,  including  King  Island,  the  largest  of  the  Mergui  Archipelago. 
The  principal  Government  buildings  are  on  a  ridge  parallel  to  the 
coast,  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea,  and  affording  a  view  of  the  harbour 
backed  by  the  pagoda-crowned  hills  of  Pataw  and  Patet  on  the  islands 
opposite,  and  the  distant  heights  of  King  Island  beyond.  The  inner 
town  is  densely  packed,  the  houses  being  huddled  together  without 
much  regard  for  sanitation,  especially  on  the  foreshore,  where  they  are 
built  over  the  mud.  In  the  suburbs  the  buildings  are  scattered  among 
orchards,  but  roads  are  lacking  everywhere. 

The  population  of  the  town  fell  from  9,737  in  1S72  to  8,633  m  1S81, 
but  rose  again  to  10,137  m  l%9*  anQl  IT>987  in  1901.  The  Census, 
however,  is  taken  at  a  time  when  the  fishermen  and  their  families,  who 
number  several  thousands,  are  living  in  the  islands.  During  the  mon- 
soon they  move  into  the  town.  The  population  is  very  mixed.  To 
a  European  resident  most  families  seem  to  have  either  Chinese  or 
Indian  blood  in  them  ;  but  the  census  figures  show  only  1,400  Muham- 
madans  and  700  Hindus  in  the  town,  while  the  total  number  of  persons 


3oS  MERGUI  TOWN 

in  the  entire  District,  including  the  miners,  returning  themselves  as 
Chinese,  is  only  2,100.  No  doubt  most  of  these  are  in  the  town,  many 
Chinese  miners  being  imported  for  the  monsoon  only.  Practically 
no  persons  called  themselves  Siamese  or  Karens,  but  there  must  be  a 
very  large  admixture  of  these  races  in  the  population.  No  Malays 
reside  in  the  town. 

The  Burmese  name  of  Mergui  is  written  Mrit,  but  pronounced  Beik. 
The  Siamese  write  and  pronounce  the  name  Marit.  The  origin  of  the 
name  used  by  Europeans  (and  also  by  Malays  and  natives  of  India) 
is  quite  unknown.  It  is  by  no  means  certain  that  it  is  connected  with 
the  Siamese  name,  for  no  plausible  explanation  of  the  second  syllable 
has  ever  been  given. 

Mergui  was  formed  into  a  municipality  in  1887.  The  receipts  during 
the  ten  years  ending  1901  averaged  Rs.  27,600.  In  1903-4  the  income 
was  Rs.  34,700,  of  which  Rs.  14,700  was  derived  from  a  tax  on  houses 
and  lands,  Rs.  9,200  from  market  dues,  and  Rs.  6,800  from  lighting 
and  conservancy  rates.  The  chief  items  of  expenditure  were  con- 
servancy (Rs.  5,800),  lighting  (Rs.  4,300),  hospital  (Rs.  3,900),  roads 
(Rs.  3,700),  markets  (Rs.  3,000),  and  education  (Rs.  3,000).  There  are 
two  bazars,  one  of  brick  on  the  shore,  and  the  other  of  wood  and 
thatch,  behind  the  ridge  which  runs  along  the  centre  of  the  town. 
The  hospital,  school,  and  municipal  office  are  situated  on  this  ridge, 
near  the  courthouse  and  police  station. 

The  Port  fund  has  an  income  of  Rs.  3,500  a  year.  Passengers  and 
cargo  from  foreign  ports  are  landed  at  the  main  wharf,  which  was  built 
of  stone  in  1900,  at  a  cost  of  Rs.  38,000.  Cargo  from  Rangoon  and 
coast  ports  usually  goes  to  a  smaller  wharf  in  the  south  of  the  town, 
and  there  are  in  addition  numerous  private  jetties.  The  total  value  of 
the  exports  in  1903-4  was  16  lakhs,  of  which  n  lakhs  went  to  Indian 
ports  and  5  lakhs  to  the  Straits  and  England.  The  imports  were  valued 
at  14  lakhs,  of  which  \\\  lakhs  came  from  Indian  ports. 

The  principal  exports  are  fish-paste  and  salted  fish,  sent  mostly  to 
Rangoon  and  Moulmein,  and  mother-of-pearl  shell,  sent  to  the  United 
Kingdom  ;  cotton  piece-goods  and  husked  rice  are  the  two  principal 
imports,  coming  mainly  from  Rangoon. 

Merkara. — Taluk  and  town  in  Coorg.    See  Mercara. 

Merta. — Head-quarters  of  a  district  of  the  same  name  in  the  State 
of  Jodhpur,  Rajputana,  situated  in  260  39'  N.  and  740  2'  E.,  about 
9  miles  south-east  of  Merta  Road  station  on  the  Jodhpur-Bikaner  Rail- 
way. Population  (1901),  4,361.  The  town  was  founded  by  Duda,  the 
fourth  son  of  Rao  Jodha,  about  1488,  and  was  added  to  by  Rao 
Maldeo,  who  about  1540  built  the  wall  (now  somewhat  dilapidated) 
and  the  fort  called  after  him  Malkot.  In  1562  Akbar  took  the  place 
after  an  obstinate  and  sanguinary  defence,  but  about  twenty  years  later 


MER  WAR  A  309 

he  restored  it  to  the  Jodhpur  chief,  Raja  Udai  Singh.  Merta  was 
at  one  time  a  great  trade  centre,  and  there  are  still  many  fine  carved 
stone  houses ;  it  possesses  a  post  office,  an  Anglo-vernacular  school, 
a  hospital  with  accommodation  for  six  in-patients,  and  a  handsome 
mosque  built  by  Akbar.  The  principal  manufactures  are  khas-khas 
fans  and  screens,  ivory  work,  country  soap,  and  earthenware  toys- 
The  country  around  Merta  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a  hard-fought 
battle,  and  is  covered  with  stone  pillars  erected  to  the  memory  of  the 
dead.  Here  in  1790  the  Marathas  under  De  Boigne  inflicted  a  severe 
defeat  on  the  Rathors  ;  and  on  the  dam  of  a  tank  called  Dangolai  is 
the  tomb  of  a  French  captain  of  infantry,  who  fell  on  that  occasion. 

Mertiparvat  (or  Mertigudda). — Mountain  peak,  5,451  feet  high,  in 
the  south-west  of  Kadur  District,  Mysore,  situated  in  130  18'  N.  and 
750  23'  E.  To  the  north  it  presents  a  majestic  conical  aspect.  To- 
wards the  south-west  it  is  connected  with  two  lower  heights,  and  is  so 
surrounded  on  all  sides  with  high  hills  that  its  true  elevation  does  not 
appear  except  at  a  distance.  The  top  is  bare,  but  the  sides  are  clothed 
with  fine  forests,  and  where  the  ground  admits,  terraced  for  paddy- 
fields.     It  is  also  called  the  Kalasa  hill,  being  near  to  that  place. 

Merwara. — British  District  in  Rajputana,  lying  between  250  24' 
and  260  n'  N.  and  730  45"  and  740  29'  E.,  with  an  area  of  641  square 
miles  and  a  population  (1901)  of  109,459.  The  local  name  of  the 
District  is  Magra,  which  signifies  'hills.' 

Beyond  the  fact  that  between  1725  and  1816  several  unsuccessful 
attempts  were  made  by  Rajputs  and  Marathas  to  subdue  the  country, 
the  history  of  Merwara  is  a  blank  up  to  18 18,  when  the  British  appeared 
on  the  scene.  Captain  Broughton,  who  accompanied  the  Maharaja 
Sindhia  in  his  march  from  Agra  to  Ajmer,  1809-10,  describes  it  in  his 
Letters  from  a  Ma/iratta  Camp  as 

'  the  district  of  Mugruolee,  celebrated  for  its  hilly  fastnesses  and  im- 
penetrable jungles.  It  forms  the  boundary  between  the  countries  of 
Marwar  or  Jodhpur  and  Mewar  or  Udaipur ;  but  the  daring  race  of 
robbers  who  inhabit  it  acknowledge  the  authority  of  neither.  They 
subsist  by  levying  contributions  on  the  inhabitants  of  the  plains  around, 
when  they  are  not  checked  by  the  presence  of  a  still  greater  evil  than 
themselves,  a  large  army  of  Marathas.' 

The  District  was  then  an  impenetrable  jungle,  inhabited  by  outlaws 
and  fugitives  from  surrounding  States.  The  population,  known  under 
the  general  name  of  Mers,  originally  comprised  a  very  heterogeneous 
mixture  of  castes  :  Chandela  Gujars,  Bhati  Rajputs,  Brahmans,  and 
Minas.  It  is  said  that  Visaldev,  the  Chauhan  king  of  Ajmer,  subdued 
the  inhabitants,  and  made  them  drawers  of  water  in  the  streets  of 
Ajmer.  Mr.  "Wilder,  the  first  British  Superintendent  of  Ajmer.  entered 
into  agreements  with  certain  villages  binding  their  inhabitants  to  abstain 


3io  MERWARA 

from  plunder.  These  pledges  were  disregarded  ;  and  in  1819  a  force 
was  dispatched  from  Nasirabad  which  destroyed  the  offending  villages, 
and  established  police  posts  at  Shamgarh,  Liilwa,  and  Jhak.  In 
November,  1820,  the  police  officers  were  murdered,  and  the  country 
had  to  be  thoroughly  subjugated.  An  expedition  started  again  from 
Nasirabad,  and  accomplished  its  purpose  by  the  end  of  January,  1821, 
the  campaign  having  lasted  three  months.  It  now  became  necessary 
to  make  arrangements  for  the  administration  of  this  turbulent  tract, 
which  was  made  up  of  three  portions :  British  Merwara,  Mewar- 
Merwara,  and  Marwar-Merwara.  Captain  Tod,  the  author  of  Raja- 
sthan,  undertook  the  administration  of  the  portion  belonging  to  Mewar. 
The  Marwar  portion  was  handed  over  to  the  Thakurs  of  adjoining 
villages,  and  the  British  portion  to  the  Thakurs  of  Masuda  and  Kharwa, 
who  were  held  responsible  for  its  management,  under  the  general 
superintendence  of  Mr.  Wilder.  This  arrangement  was  a  complete 
failure.  The  District  was  infested  with  murderous  gangs,  criminals 
from  one  portion  were  sheltered  in  another,  and  the  condition  of 
Merwara  became  worse  than  it  had  been  prior  to  1818.  In  1823 
and  1824  the  British  authorities  entered  into  engagements  with  Udaipur 
and  Jodhpur,  and  took  over  the  management  of  the  whole  tract.  From 
time  to  time  these  treaties  were  renewed,  and  the  whole  District  is 
now,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  British  territory.  The  first  officer 
appointed  to  hold  charge  of  the  newly  acquired  tract  was  Captain  Hall, 
who  in  1836  was  succeeded  by  Colonel  Dixon.  In  1842  Colonel  Dixon 
became  Superintendent  of  Ajmer  also,  and  since  then  the  two  Districts 
have  been  administratively  conjoined.  To  Hall  and  Dixon  belongs  the 
credit  of  reclaiming  the  inhabitants  of  Merwara  from  predatory  habits 
to  a  life  of  honest  industry.  Colonel  Dixon  died  at  Beawar  in  1857, 
having  lived  in  Ajmer-Merwara  for  thirty-seven  years.  A  system  of 
government,  which  may  well  be  called  paternal,  was  established  by 
these  officers  in  Merwara,  and  was  eminently  suited  to  the  needs  of 
the  people.  Civil  and  criminal  administration  was  carried  on  by 
a  patichayat  or  assembly  of  the  elders  of  the  village.  If  two-thirds 
of  the  assembly  were  agreed,  the  question  was  settled.  Prior  to  1851, 
when  a  regular  settlement  was  effected  by  Colonel  Dixon,  the  revenue 
was  settled  by  an  estimate  of  the  crop,  one-third  of  the  produce  being 
the  share  of  the  Government,  except  in  special  cases.  Police  and 
revenue  duties  were  combined.  The  people  themselves  were  made 
responsible  for  protecting  travellers  and  trade  ;  and  to  this  day  certain 
villages  provide  men  to  guard  some  of  the  passes  leading  out  of 
Merwara,  receiving  in  return  a  small  remuneration  from  travellers. 
In  1822  a  corps,  designated  the  Merwara  Local  Battalion,  was  raised, 
which  transformed  a  number  of  wild  mountaineers  into  brave  and 
disciplined  soldiers,  and  exercised  a  beneficial  effect  on  the  pacification 


ME  WAR  31  r 

of  the  country.  In  1858  a  second  battalion,  known  us  the  Mhair 
Regiment,  was  raised  for  service  in  the  Mutiny.  In  t86i  the  two 
battalions  were  amalgamated  into  one,  1,000  strong,  called  the  Mhair 
Military  Police  Battalion.  This  corps  was  in  187 1  re  transferred,  with 
a  strength  of  712  men,  to  the  regular  military  establishment.  It  served 
in  the  Afghan  War  of  1878-80,  and  is  now  the  44th  Merwara  Infantry, 
with  head-quarters  at  Ajmer.  Colonel  Dixon's  administration  was 
remarkable  for  the  building  of  a  large  number  of  irrigation  tanks. 
The  good  effect  of  these  works  was  enormous.  Cultivation  increased, 
and  the  old  villages,  which  had  been  perched  on  inaccessible  peaks, 
were  deserted  for  places  in  the  valleys  where  agricultural  operations 
could  be  carried  on.  It  thus  came  about  that  the  inhabitants  of 
Merwara,  who  had  proclivities  very  similar  to  those  of  the  Highland 
caterans,  and  who  lived  by  plundering  in  Mewar,  Marwar,  Kishangarh, 
and  Ajmer,  were  led  into  the  paths  of  civilization.  As  the  area  under 
cultivation  and  the  produce  of  the  lands  increased,  it  became  apparent 
that  something  must  be  done  to  attract  mahajans  (traders)  to  Merwara, 
to  enable  the  people  to  reap  the  benefits  of  their  industry.  Colonel 
Dixon,  therefore,  founded  in  1835  the  town  of  Nayanagar,  better  known 
as  Beawar,  which  is  the  commercial  and  administrative  capital  of  the 
District.  By  these  measures  a  great  social  change  was  wrought  in 
Merwara,  and  Colonal  Dixon  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  round  him 
a  people  whose  wants  had  been  supplied,  whose  grievances  had  been 
redressed,  and  who  are  described  as  being  '  most  prosperous  and  highly 
favoured.'  The  people  of  Merwara  have  not  forgotten  their  benefactor. 
They  erected  a  monument  to  his  memory  in  the  town  which  he  built. 

For  further  information  see  Ajmer-Merwara. 

Mesana. — Taluka  and  town  in  Kadi  prant,  Baroda  State.  See 
Mehsana. 

Mettancheri.— Town    in    Cochin    State,    Madras.       See   Mattan- 

CHERI. 

Mettupalaiyam. — Village  in  the  District  and  taluk  of  Coimbatore, 
Madras,  situated  in  u°  19/  N.  and  760  58'  E.,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Bhavani  at  the  foot  of  the  Nilgiri  Hills.  Population  (1901),  10,223. 
Being  the  terminus  of  the  Nilgiri  branch  of  the  Madras  Railway  and 
the  starting-point  of  the  ghat  road  and  rack  railway  which  lead  up 
those  hills,  it  is  a  place  of  some  importance  and  a  deputy-ta/tst/Jdr 
is  stationed  here.  Owing  to  its  situation,  it  is  notoriously  hot  and 
unhealthy.  A  tannery  owned  by  a  native  firm  employs  60  hands,  and 
turns  out  annually  nearly  85  tons  of  leather,  valued  at  over  Rs.  50,000. 
There  are  more  than  a  hundred  dolmens  in  the  fields  round  the  place. 

Mevali. — Petty  State  in  Rewa  Kantha,  Bombay. 

Mevasa.— Petty  State  in  Kathiawar,  Bombay. 

Mewar. — Another  name  for  the  Udaipur   State    in    Rajputana. 


312 


ME  WAR 


The  word  Mewar  is  a  corrupted  form  of  the  Sanskrit  Med  Pat,  mean- 
ing the  country  of  the  Meds  or  Meos,  a  tribe  now  numerous  in  Alwar, 
Bharatpur,  Gurgaon,  &c.     See  Mewat. 

Mewar  (or  Udaipur)  Residency. — One  of  the  eight  Political 
Charges  into  which  Rajputana  is  divided.  Situated  in  the  south  of  the 
Agency,  it  consists ]  of  the  four  States  of  Udaipur,  Banswara,  Dungar- 
pur, and  Partabgarh,  and  lies  between  230  3'  and  250  58'  N.  and  73°  i' 
and  750  49'  E.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  British  District  of 
Ajmer-Merwara  and  the  Shahpura  chiefship ;  on  the  north-east  by 
Jaipur  and  Bundi ;  on  the  east  it  touches  Kotah  and  an  outlying 
district  of  Tonk,  but  the  greater  part  of  this  boundary  is  formed  by 
Central  India  States ;  to  the  south  are  several  States  belonging  to 
either  Central  India  or  the  Bombay  Presidency ;  while  on  the  west  the 
Aravalli  Hills  separate  it  from  Sirohi  and  Jodhpur.  The  head-quarters 
of  the  Resident  are  at  Udaipur  and  those  of  his  Assistant  ordinarily  at 
Dungarpur.  The  population  at  the  three  enumerations  was  :  (1881) 
1,879,214,  (1891)  2,310,024,  and  (1901)  1,336,283.  The  figures  for 
the  two  earlier  years  are,  however,  unreliable,  as,  except  in  Partabgarh, 
the  Bhils  who  form  the  majority  of  the  population  in  the  south  were 
not  counted,  a  rough  guess  only  being  made  of  their  numbers.  But, 
though  the  census  figures  for  1881  and  1891  may  have  been  too  high, 
the  loss  of  population  during  the  last  decade  was  certainly  very  great, 
due  to  the  famine  of  1 899-1900  and  the  severe  epidemic  of  fever 
which  immediately  followed  it.  In  regard  to  area  and  population,  the 
Residency  stands  third  among  the  eight  political  divisions  of  Raj- 
putana, while  the  density  is  nearly  79  persons  per  square  mile,  as 
compared  with  76  for  the  whole  Agency.  Of  the  total  population  in 
1901,  Hindus  formed  nearly  69  per  cent.,  Animists  (mostly  Bhils)  21, 
and  Jains  about  6  per  cent.  The  following  table  gives  details  re- 
garding the  four  States  making  up  the  Residency  : — 


State. 

Area  in  square 
miles. 

Population, 
1 901. 

Normal  land 

revenue  (k/ia/sa), 

in  thousands 

of  rupees. 

Udaipur     . 
Banswara  . 
Dungarpur 
Partabgarh 

Total 

12,691 
1,946 

1,447 

886 

1,018,805 

165,350 

100,103 

52,025 

13,60 

85 
1,00 
1,00 

16,970 

I>336,283 

16,45 

There  are  altogether  8,359  villages  and  17  towns.  Of  the  latter, 
only  two  have  more  than  10,000  inhabitants:  namely,  Udaipur  City 
(45,976)  and  BhIlwara  (10,346). 

1  It  has  recently  been  decided  to  establish  a  new  Agency,  comprising  the  States  of 
Banswara,  Dungarpur,  and  Partabgarh. 


ME  WAT  313 

Mewat. — An  ill-defined  tract  lying  south  of  Delhi,  and  including 
part  of  the  British  Districts  of  Muttra  and  Gurgaon,  and  most  of 
Alwar  and  a  little  of  Bharatpur  State.  It  takes  its  name  from  the 
Meos,  who  appear  to  have  been  originally  the  same  as  the  Mlnas  of 
Rajputana,  but  say  that  they  have  not  intermarried  with  these  since 
the  time  of  Akbar.  The  origin  of  the  name  Meo  is  disputed,  some 
deriving  it  from  Mewat,  which  is  said  to  be  the  Sanskrit  mlna-vati, 
'  rich  in  fish,'  while  the  Meos  themselves  derive  it  from  maheo,  a  word 
used  in  driving  cattle.  Mlna  is  said  to  come  from  Amlna  Meo  or 
'  pure '  Meo,  a  term  applied  to  those  who  did  not  become  Musalmans. 
The  Hindu  Meos  and  Mlnas  claim  to  be  Rajputs,  but  are  not  so 
regarded  by  other  Hindus,  and  it  is  certain  that  outsiders  have  often 
been  admitted  in  the  past.  Their  tribal  constitution  varies  in  different 
places.  The  Muhammadan  Meos  call  themselves  Mewatls.  In  1901 
there  were  10,546  Meos  and  Mlnas  in  the  United  Provinces,  chiefly  in 
the  Districts  of  Meerut  (916),  Bulandshahr  (4,745),  Agra  (906),  Bijnor 
(1,263),  Budaun  (884),  and  Moradabad  (1,070);  and  51,028  Mewatls, 
chiefly  in  the  Meerut  (22,576),  Agra  (7,316),  and  Rohilkhand  (16,129) 
Divisions.  The  large  number  in  Rohilkhand,  which  was  never  part  of 
Mewat,  is  explained  by  a  migration  owing  to  famine  in  Mewat  in 
1761-2.  The  Meos  of  Rajputana  numbered  168,596,  or  nearly  2  per 
cent,  of  the  total  population.  Practically  all  are  Muhammadans,  and 
they  are  found  in  thirteen  out  of  eighteen  States.  In  Alwar  there  were 
113,142,  or  over  13  per  cent,  of  the  population;  and  in  Bharatpur 
51,546,  or  8  per  cent.  The  Khanzada  subdivision  is  represented  by  9,31 7 
members,  most  of  whom  are  in  Alwar.  The  Mewatls  have  preserved 
many  Hindu  customs,  such  as  exogamous  rules  and  Hindu  festivals. 

According  to  tradition,  the  Meos  first  crossed  the  Jumna  in  the 
period  of  anarchy  which  succeeded  the  invasion  by  Mahmud  of  Ghazni 
in  1 01 8-9.  The  great  Rajput  clans  of  Bulandshahr  and  Etawah  state 
that  they  dispossessed  the  Meos  at  the  order  of  Prithwl  Raj  of  Delhi 
towards  the  end  of  the  twelfth  century.  Throughout  the  period  of 
Muhammadan  rule  the  Meos  were  the  Ishmaelites  of  their  own  country 
and  of  the  Upper  Doab,  though  harried  again  and  again  by  the  kings 
of  Delhi,  from  Nasir-ud-dln  Mahmud  (1259)  to  Babar  (1527).  During 
the  troubled  times  of  Timur's  invasion  (1398)  Bahadur  Nahar,  who 
founded  the  subdivision  of  Mewatls  called  Khanzadas,  members  of 
which  were,  for  many  years,  rulers  of  Mewat,  was  one  of  the  most 
powerful  chiefs  in  this  part  of  India.  Under  Akbar  the  tract  was 
divided  between  the  sarkars  of  Alwar  and  Tijara  in  the  Subah  of 
Delhi.  The  rule  of  the  Mewatls  was  subsequently  challenged  by  the 
Jats,  who  had  already  risen  to  importance  before  the  death  of  Aurang- 
zeb  in  1707,  and  consolidated  their  power  in  Southern  Mewat  in  the 
first  half  of  the  eighteenth  century  ;  and  from  this  time  the  history  of 


3i4  ME  WAT 

Mewat  merges  in  that  of  Alwar  and  Bharatpur.  The  Meos  and 
Mewatls,  however,  retained  their  character  for  turbulence  ;  and  towards 
the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  travelling  in  the  Upper  and  Central 
Doab  was  unsafe  owing  to  armed  bands  of  MewatI  horsemen.  They 
gave  much  trouble  to  Lord  Lake's  forces  in  the  Maratha  War  of  1803, 
while  in  the  Mutiny  they  and  the  Giijars  were  conspicuous  for  their 
readiness  to  take  advantage  of  disorder. 

[W.  Crooke,  Tribes  and  Castes  of  the  North- Western  Provinces  and 
Oi/dh,  vol.  iii,  p.  485  et  seq.,  where  full  authorities  are  quoted.] 

Mhasvad. — Town  in  the  Man  taluka  of  Satara  District,  Bombay, 
situated  in  1 70  38'  N.  and  740  48'  E.,  5 1  miles  east  of  Satara  town,  on 
the  road  to  Pandharpur.  Population  (1901),  7,014.  Six  miles  south- 
east of  the  town,  at  Rajewadi  in  Aundh  State,  is  the  great  Mhasvad 
irrigation  lake,  covering  an  area  of  6  square  miles.  An  ancient  temple 
of  Nath  stands  near  the  western  entrance  of  the  town.  Its  courtyard, 
in  which  Puranas  are  read  daily  by  a  Brahman,  contains  an  inscription 
and  a  black  stone  elephant,  which  is  greatly  venerated.  A  large  fair 
is  held  in  December,  at  which  cattle  and  blankets  are  sold.  The 
municipality,  constituted  in  1857,  had  an  income  during  the  decade 
ending  1901  averaging  Rs.  4,700.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  5,300. 
The  town  contains  a  dispensary. 

Mhow  {Man). — British  cantonment  in  the  Indore  State,  Central 
India,  situated  in  220  ^^  N.  and  750  46"  E.,  on  the  southern  boundary 
of  the  Malwa  plateau,  and  on  the  Ajmer-Khandwa  branch  of  the 
Rajputana-Malwa.  Railway.  Population  (1901),  36,039.  It  stands 
on  a  somewhat  narrow  ridge  of  trap  rock,  with  an  average  elevation  of 
about  1,800  feet,  the  highest  point  near  the  barracks  of  the  British 
infantry  being  1,919  feet  above  sea-level.  The  ridge  falls  away  abruptly 
on  the  south  and  east,  but  slopes  away  gradually  on  the  west,  forming 
a  broad  plain  used  as  a  brigade  parade  ground.  Mhow  was  founded  by 
Sir  John  Malcolm  in  1818,  in  accordance  with  the  conditions  laid  down 
in  the  seventh  article  of  the  Treaty  of  Mandasor  (see  Indore  State), 
and  remained  his  head-quarters  till  1821  while  he  held  general  political 
and  military  charge  in  Central  India.  In  1857  the  garrison  at  Mhow 
consisted  of  a  regiment  of  native  infantry,  the  wing  of  a  regiment  of 
native  cavalry,  and  a  battery  of  field  artillery,  manned  by  British 
gunners  but  driven  by  natives.  An  outbreak  took  place  on  the 
evening  of  July  1,  but  order  was  rapidly  restored,  and  only  a  few  lives 
were  lost,  the  Europeans  taking  refuge  within  the  fort.  The  canton- 
ment is  now  the  head-quarters  of  the  Mhow  division  in  the  Western 
Command.  The  garrison  consists  of  one  regiment  of  British  cavalry, 
two  batteries  of  horse  artillery,  one  regiment  of  British  infantry,  one 
ammunition  column,  and  two  regiments  of  Native  infantry. 

The  population   in    1872   was   17,640;    in    i88r  it  was  15,896,  the 


MI  A. XI  315 

decrease  being  due  to  the  withdrawal. of  the  labourers  employed  in  con- 
structing the  Rajputana-Malwa  Railway  in  1875;  in  1891,  28,773;  ancl 
in  1901,  28,457.  Mhow  has  no  export  trade  properly  speaking,  but  the 
imports  are  considerable.  The  total  receipts  of  the  cantonment  fund 
in  1903-4  amounted  to  1-4  lakhs,  including  receipts  from  octroi 
(Rs.  50,000),  chaukldari  tax  (Rs.  22,000),  grants-in-aid  (Rs.  31,000), 
and  excise  (Rs.  18,000).  The  chief  heads  of  expenditure  were  medical 
and  conservancy  (Rs.  31,000  each),  police  (Rs.  19,000),  public  works 
(Rs.  17,000),  general  administration  and  collection  of  revenue 
(Rs.  10,000),  water-supply  (Rs.  3,000),  and  education  (Rs.  1,400). 
The  sanitary  condition  of  the  cantonment  has  been  much  improved  of 
late  years,  a  regular  water-supply  having  been  completed  in  1888.  The 
( lantonment  Magistrate  exercises  powers  as  a  District  Judge  and  Judge 
of  the  Small  Cause  Court,  his  Assistant  being  a  magistrate  of  the  second 
class  and  a  judge  of  the  Small  Cause  Court  for  petty  suits.  Appeals 
from  the  Cantonment  Magistrate  lie  to  the  First  Assistant  Agent  to  the 
Governor-General,  who  is  Sessions  Judge  and  first  Civil  Appellate 
Court,  the  Agent  to  the  Governor-General  being  the  High  Court.  The 
police,  who  belong  to  the  Central  India  Agency  force,  number  107  men 
under  a  European  Inspector.  Three  schools  in  the  cantonment — the 
Pars!  school  with  400  boys  and  60  girls,  the  railway  school,  and  the 
convent  school — receive  grants-in-aid  from  cantonment  funds.  Besides 
the  military  hospitals,  a  civil  hospital  is  maintained  by  local  charity 
and  a  grant  from  cantonment  funds. 

Miani  (1). — Port  in  Las  Bela  State,  Baluchistan.     See  Sox. miani. 

Miani  ('Fishing  village')  (2). — Village  in  the  Hyderabad  taluka  of 
Hyderabad  District,  Sind,  Bombay,  6  miles  north  of  Hyderabad  city. 
Population  (1901),  962.  It  was  here  that  Sir  Charles  Napier,  on 
February  17,  1843,  with  a  force  of  2,800  men  and  12  guns,  en- 
countered a  Baloch  army  numbering  22,000,  strongly  posted  on 
the  banks  of  the  Fuleli.  The  enemy  were  totally  routed,  5,000  men 
being  killed  and  wounded,  and  the  whole  of  their  ammunition,  stan- 
dards, and  camp  taken,  with  considerable  stores  and  some  treasure. 
A  monument  marks  the  scene  of  the  battle,  and  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  pillar  are  inscribed  the  names  of  the  officers,  and  the  number  of 
rank  and  file,  who  fell.  The  village  contains  three  schools,  one  of  which 
is  for  girls. 

Miani  (3). — Town  in  the  Dasuya  tahsil  of  Hoshiarpur  District,  Pun- 
jab, situated  in  310  43'  N.  and  750  34'  E.,  on  the  Beas  river.  Population 
(1901),  6,118.  It  is  of  no  commercial  importance.  The  municipality 
was  created  in  1874.  The  income  during  the  ten  years  ending  1902-3 
averaged  Rs.  1,700,  and  the  expenditure  Rs.  1,600.  In  1903-4  the 
income  was  Rs.  1,800,  chiefly  derived  from  octroi  ;  and  the  expenditure 
was  Rs.  2,300.     It  maintains  a  Government  dispensary. 

VOL.  XVII.  x 


J 


1 6  MI  AN  I 


Miani  (4). — Town  in  the  Bhera  tahsll  of  Shahpur  District,  Punjab, 
situated  in  320  34'  N.  and  730  5'  E.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Jhelum, 
opposite  Pind  Dadan  Khan.  Population  (1901),  7,220.  It  was  formerly 
the  depot  to  which  all  the  salt  from  the  Khewra  mines  was  brought  for 
dispatch  down  country,  but  its  trade  has  been  ruined  by  the  extension 
of  the  North-Western  Railway  across  the  Jhelum  to  Khewra.  The 
original  town,  called  Shamsabad,  having  been  swept  away  by  a  flood, 
Asaf  Khan,  father-in-law  of  Shah  Jahan,  founded  the  present  one.  It 
was  plundered  by  Nur-ud-din,  general  of  Ahmad  Shah,  in  1754,  taken 
in  1783  and  restored  in  1787  by  Mahan  Singh,  father  of  Ranjlt  Singh, 
wrho  reopened  the  salt  mart.  The  municipality  was  created  in  1867. 
The  income  during  the  ten  years  ending  1902-3  averaged  Rs.  8,000, 
and  the  expenditure  Rs.  7,600.  In  1903-4  the  income  amounted  to 
Rs.  10,000,  chiefly  from  octroi ;  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  8,400. 
The  town  possesses  an  Anglo-vernacular  high  school,  maintained  by 
the  municipality,  and  a  Government  dispensary. 

Mian  Mir. — Former  name  of  Lahore  Cantonment,  Punjab. 

Mianwali  District. — North-westernmost  District  of  the  Multan 
Division,  Punjab,  lying  between  300  36''  and  ^  I4/  N.  and  700  46' 
and  720  o'  E.,  with  an  area  of  7,816  square  miles.  Of  this  vast  area 
about  three-fourths  are  east  of  the  river  Indus,  comprising  the  tahsils 
of  Mianwali,  Bhakkar,  and  Leiah,  which  lie  in  that  order  from  north  to 
south  along  the  river.  On  the  east,  the  District  is  bounded  by  the 
Districts  of  Attock,  Shahpur,  and  Jhang,  while  on  the  south  it  adjoins 
Muzaffargarh.  The  cis-Indus  portion  of  the  District  is  bounded  on 
the  west,  for  the  greater  part  of  its  length,  by  the  Indus,  which  divides 
it  from  Dera  Ghazi  Khan  and  the  North-West  Frontier  District  of  Dera 
Ismail  Khan.  To  the  west  of  that  river  lies  its  remaining  portion,  the 
tahsll  of  Isa  Khel,  bounded  to  the  west  and  north  by  the  Bannu  and 
Kohat  Districts  of  the  North-West  Frontier  Province.  This  consists 
mainly  of  a  semicircle  of  level  plain  enclosed  between  the  Chichali  and 
Maidani  hills  and  the  Indus.  North  of  Kalabagh,  and  between  the 
termination  of  the  Khattak  hills  and  the  Indus,  lies  the  outlying 
tract  of  Bhangi  Khel,  a  rugged  area  broken  up  by  rough  lines  of  hills, 
irregular  but  with  a  main  direction  from  north  to  south.  Vishorgun 
(4,001  feet  above  sea-level)  is  the  highest  point.  The  Isa  Khel 
tahsll  is  the  only  tract  with  a  Pathan  population  which  the  Punjab 
has  retained  west  of  the  Indus. 

The  cis-Indus  territory  has  a  maximum  length  from  north  to  south 
of  180  miles,  and  attains  a  width  of  70  miles  in  Bhakkar,  its  cen- 
tral tahsll,  which  stretches  eastwards  almost  to  the 

Physical         jhelum  river.     Thus   the  three  cis-Indus  tahsils  of 
aspects.  ■* 

Mianwali    comprise    the    greater    part    of  the  Sind- 

Sagar    Doab,  the    country    which    lies    between    the    Indus   and  the 


MIANWALI  DISTRICT 


3i7 


o 


Jhelum.  It  includes  two  distinct  tracts.  Along  the  Indus  lies  a 
strip  of  riverain  land,  locally  called  the  Kachhi,  which  is  flooded  by 
that  river,  and  is  of  great  fertility,  though  the  action  of  the  floods  is 
often  capricious,  fields  and  hamlets  being  sometimes  swept  away  in  a 
few  hours.  About  half  the  area  is  cultivated,  the  rest  being  covered 
with  tall  Saccharum  grass  and  tamarisk  scrub.  The  other  tract  is  the 
vast  barren  upland  known  as  the  Thal,  a  desolate  waste  of  shifting 
sandhills  on  a  level  surface  of  hard  clay.  On  this  upland  brushwood 
grows  sparsely,  and  the  only  cultivation  is  that  round  the  scattered  wells 
sunk  amid  the  sandhills.  A  great  part  of  this  tract  will  be  commanded 
by  the  projected  Indus  Canal.  The  monotony  is  unbroken  by  hills  or 
rivers  ;  but  its  north-eastern  corner  runs  up  into  the  western  flank  of 
the  Salt  Range  and  the  south-western  slopes  of  the  Sakesar  hill,  on 
which  stand  the  summer  head-quarters  of  the  officials. 

The  Indus  issues  from  the  hills  at  Kalabagh  in  a  narrow  channel, 
but  rapidly  spreads  till  above  Isa  Khel  its  width  from  bank  to  bank  is 
nearly  13  miles.  The  whole  of  the  Kachhi  is  intersected  with  straggling 
branches  of  the  Indus,  chief  of  which  is  the  Puzal. 

The  District  is  of  considerable  geological  interest,  for  it  includes 
both  cis-Indus  and  trans-Indus  portions  of  the  Salt  Range.  The 
chief  points  of  interest  in  the  series  as  exposed  here  are  the  disappear- 
ance of  the  older  palaeozoic  beds,  and  the  development  of  Jurassic 
and  Cretaceous  rocks.  The  salt  marl  and  rock-salt  still  form  the  lowest 
member  of  the  series ;  but  as  a  rule  all  overlying  formations,  found  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  range  between  the  salt  marl  and  the  boulder-bed, 
are  absent.  The  Jurassic  beds  are  well  seen  in  the  Chichali  pass,  where 
they  contain  ammonites  and  belemnites,  and  are  overlain  by  rocks  with 
Lower  Cretaceous  fossils.  Coal  of  fair  quality  occurs  in  the  Lower 
Tertiary  beds  in  the  Isa  Khel  tahsll,  and  salt  is  quarried  at  Kalabagh  \ 

The  flora  is  in  part  that  of  the  Western  Punjab,  but  there  is  a  strong 
admixture  of  West  Asian  and  even  Mediterranean  forms.  Trees  are 
scarce,  except  where  planted  ;  but  the  tali  {Dalbergia  Sissod)  is  frequent 
along  the  Indus,  and  the  Mesopotamia!!  aspen  {Pofi/lits  euphraticd)  is 
reported  from  the  south  of  the  District.  The  Salt  Range  at  Kalabagh 
has  a  flora  of  its  own,  corresponding  to  that  of  like  situations  on  the 
ranges  east  of  the  Indus.  The  Thai  sandhills  are  an  extension  of 
the  Great  Indian  Desert,  and  their  flora  is  largely  that  of  North-western 
Rajputana. 

An  occasional  leopard  on  the  Salt  Range  and  a  few  wolves  are  the 
only  representatives  of  the  fiercer  beasts.      Urial  are  to  be  found  on 

1  Set  Manual  of  Geology  of  India,  passim;  Wynne,  '  Geology  of  the  Salt  Range,' 
Memoirs,  Geological  Survey  of  India,  vol.  xiv,  and  '  Trans-Indus  Extensions  of  the 
Salt  Range,'  ibid.,  vol.  xvii,  pt.  ii  ;  C.  S.  Middleniiss,  'Geology  of  the  Salt  Range, 
Reeords,  Geologieal  Siui'ey  of  India,  vol.  xxi,  v,  pt.  i. 

X   2 


3i 8  MIANWALI    DISTRICT 

the  Salt  Range  and  in  the  Bhangi  Khel  hills,  where  markhor  are  also 
sometimes  seen.  'Ravine  deer'  (Indian  gazelle)  are  found  in  numbers 
in  the  Thai  and  along  the  foot  of  the  hills.  Wild  hog  are  met  with  in 
a  few  islands  in  the  south. 

The  greater  part  of  the  District  is  situated  in  the  Thai,  and  has  a 
fiercely  torrid  and  long  hot  season,  with  extreme  cold  in  the  winter 
months.  At  Sakesar  in  the  Salt  Range  the  elevation  is  sufficient  to 
make  punkahs  a  luxury  only,  but  the  heat  is  considerable  until  the  rains 
break.  The  District  is  on  the  whole  healthy,  but  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  Indus  is  malarious.  Goitre  is  not  uncommon  near  Kalabagh, 
and  guinea-worm  is  prevalent  in  the  Mianwali  and  Isa  Khel  tahslls. 
The  annual  rainfall  is  slight,  varying  from  \\\  inches  at  Mianwali  town 
to  7  at  Leiah. 

Nothing  is  known  of  the  early  history.  The  remains  at  Kafirkot 
in  Dera  Ismail  Khan  and  Mari  in  this  District  appear  to  testify  to  the 
existence  in  the  north  of  a  Hindu  civilization  pos- 
sessed of  considerable  resources  and  architectural 
skill.  The  only  other  archaeological  remains  of  any  antiquity  are  some 
statues  of  Grecian  type  excavated  at  Rokhri,  two  erections  near  Nam- 
mal  in  shape  like  sentry-boxes  and  supposed  to  be  dolmens,  and  several 
massive  tombs  of  dressed  stone  in  the  Salt  Range.  There  are  no 
remains  in  the  Thai  earlier  than  the  fourteenth  century,  and  there  is 
every  reason  to  suppose  that  this  area  was  previously  an  uninhabited 
desert.  The  country  appears  to  have  been  colonized  in  the  beginning 
of  the  fifteenth  century  by  an  immigration  of  Jats  from  the  south, 
followed  by  the  Baloch,  who  came  in  large  bands  under  recognized 
leaders  and  took  possession  of  the  country  as  a  military  caste  and  over- 
lords of  the  Jat  cultivators,  founding  the  towns  of  Karor,  Bhakkar, 
and  Leiah.  At  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century  we  find  the 
Jaskani  Baloch  ruling  from  the  Indus  to  the  Chenab,  and  from  Bhak- 
kar to  Leiah,  with  their  capital  at  Mankera.  In  the  north  the  earliest 
inhabitants  were  the  Awans,  who  were  driven  back  to  the  Salt  Range 
by  the  Niazai  immigration  in  the  sixteenth  century.  The  Gakhars 
seem  to  have  exercised  an  overlordship  in  the  Mianwali  tahsll  as  feuda- 
tories of  the  Mughal  empire  until  1748,  when  they  were  expelled  by  a 
Durrani  army.  The  rest  of  the  District  was  incorporated  in  the  Durrani 
kingdom  in  1756,  and  towards  the  end  of  the  century  became  the 
province  ruled  over  by  Nawab  Muhammad  Khan  Sadozai,  whose  suc- 
cessor annexed  Isa  Khel  in  181 8.  The  cis-lndus  portion  was  seized  by 
the  Sikhs  in  1822,  after  the  fall  of  Mankera,  and  Isa  Khel  in  1836. 
On  the  outbreak  of  the  second  Sikh  War  a  force  of  local  levies  was 
raised  by  Sir  H.  Edwardes  at  Leiah,  which  took  part  in  the  siege  of 
Multan.  The  territories  now  comprised  in  Mianwali  were  annexed  in 
1849.     The  cis-lndus  portion  of  the  present  District,  together  with  the 


POPULATION 


3*9 


SanaAvan  (or  Kot  Adu)  tahsll  of  Muzaffargarh,  formed  the  Leiah  Dis- 
trict, and  Isa  Khel  formed  part  of  Dera  Ismail  Khan.  Sanawan  was 
transferred  to  Muzaffargarh  in  1859;  and  in  1861  Leiah  District  was 
abolished,  the  Bhakkar  and  Leiah  tahslls  going  to  Dera  Ismail  Khan, 
and  Mianwali  and  Isa  Khel  forming  part  of  the  new  District  of  Bannu. 
In  1901  the  present  District  of  Mianwali  was  constituted,  being  the 
original  Leiah  District  without  Sanawan  and  with  Isa  Khel.  During 
the  Mutiny  the  District  was  generally  quiet ;  a  detachment  of  irregular 
cavalry  mutinied  at  Mianwali,  but  the  rising  was  quickly  suppressed. 

The  population  of  the  area  now  included  in  the  District  at  the  last 
three  enumerations  was:  (1881)  365,621,  (1891)  400,477,  and  (1901) 
424,588,  dwelling  in  5  towns  and  426  villages.  It 
has  increased  by  61  per  cent,  during  the  last  decade,  Population, 
the  increase  being  greatest  in  the  Leiah  tahsll,  and  least  in  Isa  Khel. 
The  District  is  divided  into  the  four  tahslls  of  Mianwali,  Isa  Khel, 
Bhakkar,  and  Leiah,  the  head-quarters  of  each  being  at  the  place 
from  which  it  is  named.  The  towns  are  the  municipalities  of  Isa 
Khel,  Kalabagh,  Bhakkar,  Leiah,  Karor,  and  Mianwali  l. 

The  following  table  gives  the  chief  statistics  of  population  in  1901  : — 


Tahsil. 

V 

u 

-a 

V 

< 

Number  of 

c 

"3 
0 

0-, 

5  a 

'3  a 

3  3 

CO* 
0   <rt 

Ph 

Percentage  of 

variation  in 
population  be- 
tween 1891 
and  IQOI. 

Number  of 

persons  able  to 

read  and 

write. 

CO 

c 

0 

H 

2 
I 
2 

5 

1) 
be 

J3 
> 

Mianwali 
Isa  Khel 
Bhakkar 
Leiah    . 

District  total 

',478 

678 

3,212 

2,433 

69 

43 
196 
118 

111,883 

64,224 

125,803 

122.678 

75-7 
94-7 
39-2 
5°-4 

54-3 

+  7-7 
+  0.5 

+  5-5 
*  8.1 

3,564 

2,227 

5-5S9 
4,345 

7,816 

426 

424,588 

+  6.1 

i?,725 

NOTE.— The  figures  for  the  areas  of  tahstts  are  taken  from  revenue  returns, 
total  District  area  is  that  given  in  the  Census  Report. 


The 


Muhammadans  number  371,674,  or  over  87  per  cent,  of  the  total  : 
Hindus,  50,202  ;  and  Sikhs,  2,633.  Pashtu  is  spoken  by  some  of  the 
Pathan  inhabitants  of  the  Isa  Khel  tahsil.  Elsewhere  various  dialects 
of  Western  Punjabi  are  used. 

The  most  numerous  tribe  is  that  of  the  agricultural  Jats,  who  number 
138,000,  or  32  per  cent,  of  the  total  population.  Next  to  the  Jats 
come  the  Pathans  (47,000),  Baloch  (27,000),  Awans  (23,000),  and 
Rajputs  (6,000).  But  one  commercial  money-lending  caste,  the  Aroras 
(42,000),  is  of  numerical  importance,  the  number  of  Khattris  being 
only  2,000.  Saiyids  number  10,000.  Of  the  artisan  classes,  the  Julahas 
(weavers,  13,000),  Mochis  (shoemakers  and  leather-workers,  io,coo), 
Tarkhans  (carpenters,  10,000),  and  Kumhars  (potters,  7,000)  are  the 
1  .Mianwali  has  been  created  a  municipality  since  the  Census  ul  19c  1. 


320 


MIANWAL1  DISTRICT 


most  important  :  and  of  the  menials,  the  Machhis  (fishermen,  bakers, 
and  water-carriers,  8,000),  Chhimbas  and  Dhobis  (washermen,  8,000), 
Chuhras  and  Kutanas  (sweepers,  7,000),  and  Nais  (barbers,  7,000). 
Kaneras,  a  caste  which  is  found  only  in  two  other  Districts,  but  is 
strongest  here,  number  2,000.  Their  original  occupation  was  plaiting 
mats  from  grass  and  leaves,  making  string,  and  generally  working  in 
grass  and  reeds  :  but  they  have  now  taken  to  weaving  generally,  and 
even  cultivate  land.  Of  the  total  population,  57  per  cent,  are  sup- 
ported directly  by  agriculture.  The  District  contained  only  16  native 
Christians  in  1901. 

The  semicircle  of  plain  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Indus  enclosed 
between  the  river  and  the  hills  is  level  and  open,  has  a  good  soil, 
and  where  irrigated  by  hill  streams  produces  excel- 
lent crops.  In  the  stony  hills  of  the  Bhangi  Khel 
tract,  on  the  other  hand,  a  crop  of  the  coarsest  grain  can  be  raised 
only  in  favourable  seasons.  Cultivation  in  the  Kachhi  depends  entirely 
on  inundation  from  the  Indus,  and  the  westerly  trend  of  the  river 
necessitates  increased  artificial  irrigation  by  means  of  water-cuts  and 
dams.  The  soil  of  the  Thai  is  light  and  sandy,  and  cultivation  is 
impossible  without  the  aid  of  well-irrigation. 

The  area  for  which  details  are  available  from  the  revenue  records 
of  1903-4  is  7,707  square  miles,  as  shown  below  : — 


Agriculture. 


Tahsil. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated. 

Cultivable 
waste. 

Mianwali 
Isa  Khel 
Bhakkar 
I.eiah  . 

Total 

1,478 
67S 

3,134 

2,4'7 

432 

170 
301 

259 

5 

30 

47 

132 

C14 
182 

2,705 

2,000 

7,7°7 

I,l62 

214 

5:501 

The  chief  crop  of  the  spring  harvest  is  wheat,  which  occupied 
341  square  miles  in  1903-4.  Barley  and  gram  occupied  45  and  119 
square  miles  respectively.  Spiked  millet  {bajra)  is  the  principal  staple 
of  the  autumn  harvest  (203  square  miles).  Pulses  occupied  87  square 
miles,  and  great  millet  (jowar)  and  oilseeds  45  square  miles  each.  Little 
cotton,  no  rice,  and  practically  no  sugar-cane  are  grown. 

The  area  cultivated  has  increased  by  47  per  cent,  since  the  settle- 
ment of  1878,  and  tends  to  rise,  owing  to  the  extension  of  irrigation 
from  wells  and  cuts  from  the  hill  streams  or  the  Indus.  Nothing 
has  been  done  to  improve  the  quality  of  the  crops  grown.  Advances 
for  the  construction  of  wells  and  dams  are  readily  taken  from  Govern- 
ment, about  Rs.  29,000  having  been  advanced  during  the  three  years 
ending  1903-4. 

The  population  of  the    Thai  is  largel)    pastoral:  and  cattle,  sheep, 


MIXER  ALS  321 

and  goats  are  bred  in  large  and  increasing  numbers.  The  local  breed 
of  cattle  is,  however,  not  of  large  size,  and  for  the  severe  work  of  well- 
irrigation  bullocks  are  generally  imported  from  the  south.  Sheep-breed- 
ing is  the  principal  means  of  livelihood  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
southern  Thai ;  the  sheep  are  of  the  ordinary  thin-tailed  breed.  Camels 
are  also  bred  in  the  Thai  in  large  numbers.  Buffaloes  are  found  in 
all  villages  of  the  Kachhi.  The  people  possess  a  good  many  horses, 
and  the  District  board  maintains  one  pony  and  three  donkey  stallions. 
A  small  cattle  market  is  held  weekly  at  Isa  Khel. 

Of  the  total  cultivated  area  in  1903-4,  214  square  miles,  or  18  per 
cent.,  were  classed  as  irrigated.  Of  this  area,  185  square  miles  were 
irrigated  from  wells,  and  29  from  canals,  and  in  addition  444  square 
miles,  or  40  per  cent.,  are  subject  to  inundation  from  the  Indus.  The 
District  possesses  7,31c  masonry  wells,  besides  993  unbricked  wells, 
water-lifts,  and  lever  wells.  Nearly  the  whole  of  the  Kachhi  is  inter- 
sected by  branches  of  the  Indus  ;  and  in  the  higher  portions  dams 
are  thrown  across  these  streams  and  a  few  small  canals  excavated, 
but  for  the  most  part  the  people  trust  to  inundation  and  percola- 
tion. The  Kot  Sultan  Canal,  which  belongs  to  the  Muzaffargarh 
Inundation  Canals,  takes  off  from  the  Indus  in  the  extreme  south 
of  the  District :  but  with  this  exception  the  channels  irrigating  from 
the  Indus  are  all  private.  Canal-irrigation  in  the  Isa  Khel  tahsll 
consists  of  cuts  from  the  hill  streams,  one  channel  being  under  the 
management  of  the  Deputy-Commissioner.  Well-irrigation  is  the  great 
feature  of  agriculture  in  the  Thai.  In  the  north-east  the  spring- 
level  is  so  deep  that  wells  are  used  only  for  watering  cattle,  but  in 
the  west  and  south  they  supply  a  good  deal  of  cultivation.  In  certain 
parts  level  strips  are  found  free  from  sandhills,  and  these  are  full  of 
wells.  In  the  two  southern  tahslls  the  Kachhi  is  dependent  on  the 
overflow  from  the  Indus,  and  considerable  improvements  in  the  man- 
agement of  its  irrigation  have  been  made  in  recent  years,  the  westerly 
trend  of  the  river  necessitating  more  and  more  attention  to  this 
subject.  It  has  been  proposed  to  irrigate  the  greater  part  of  the  Thai 
by  a  perennial  canal  taking  off  from  the  Indus  at  Kalabagh. 

The  forest  lands  comprise  1,235  square  miles  of  '  unclassed '  forest 
and  Government  waste  under  the  control  of  the  Deputy-Commissioner. 
In  the  Mianwali  and  Isa  Khel  tahsils  these  consist  chiefly  of  groves  of 
shisham  (Dalbergia  S/ssoo),  while  in  the  Thai  they  are  patches  of  waste 
land  leased  for  grazing.     The  forest  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  28,000. 

Rock-salt  occurs  at  many  places    in    the    Salt    Range   and    in   the 
Maidani  range  across  the  Indus.    It  is,  however,  worked  only  along 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  near  Kalabagh,  where 
the  salt   stands  out   in  the  form  of  solid  cliffs  and 
is   quarried    on    the    surface.      Alum,   which    is  abundant   throughout 


32  2  MIANWALI  DISTRICT 

the  whole  Salt  Range,  was  formerly  manufactured  at  Kalabagh  and 
Kotki  (at  the  mouth  of  the  Chichali  pass),  the  process  being  almost 
identical  with  that  in  Europe  ;  but  the  industry  has  almost  died  out, 
owing  to  competition  with  other  sources  of  cheaper  supply.  The 
shale  from  which  alum  was  extracted  was  dug  from  shafts  in  the  hill- 
side, sometimes  of  considerable  depth.  Coal  or  lignite  of  the  oolitic 
period  occurs  at  Jaba  (cis-Indus),  at  Kalabagh,  Chopri,  Chasmian, 
and  Sultan  Khel  (trans-Indus),  and  crops  out  in  many  other  parts 
of  the  Salt  Range.  The  largest  outcrop  is  in  the  hills  between 
Kalabagh  and  the  Chichali  pass  in  Isa  Khel.  It  is  found  in  lumps 
of  various  sizes  among  dark  bituminous  shales,  not  in  beds,  but  in 
detached  masses,  which  appear  to  be  compressed  and  fossilized  trunks 
of  trees.  The  occurrence  of  these  masses  is  altogether  uncertain 
and  irregular,  so  that  nothing  like  a  systematic  working  or  shaft- 
cutting  would  be  remunerative.  The  coal  itself  is  hard  and  light, 
very  black,  but  marked  with  brown  streaks,  and  often  encloses  nests  of 
half-decomposed  wood  resembling  peat.  It  is  not  so  easily  inflam- 
mable as  good  coal  ;  it  burns  quickly,  without  coking,  to  a  light- 
coloured  ash,  and  emits  a  large  amount  of  smoky  yellow  flame  with 
but  little  heat.  A  seam  of  coal  of  some  value  was  discovered  in 
1903  near  Malla  Khel. 

Rock  oil  or  petroleum  is  found  at  Jaba  in  Masan  (cis-Indus),  near 
Kundal  in  the  Khisor  range,  and  in  lesser  quantities  elsewhere  in 
the  hills  of  Isa  Khel  and  Mianwali.  The  Jaba  reservoir  was  tapped 
scientifically  about  twenty  years  ago,  and  the  oil  drawn  up  sent  to 
Rawalpindi  for  lighting  purposes  ;  but  the  experiment  was  not  re- 
munerative. It  is  used  for  treating  itch  on  camels  and  sheep,  and 
also  to  light  the  Kalabagh  mines  when  men  are  at  work  in  the  tunnels 
excavating  shale  for  the  alum  manufactory.  The  hill  at  the  foot  of 
which  the  springs  lie  is  said  to  contain  sulphur.  Gold  is  found  in 
minute  quantities,  mixed  with  the  sand  of  the  Indus,  and  is  extracted 
by  a  laborious  process  of  washing  ;  but  the  yield  is  very  small.  Salt- 
petre is  made  from  the  earth  of  old  village  sites,  and  limestone  and 
building  stone  are  found. 

Iron   vessels  and  instruments  are  manufactured  at   Kalabagh,  and 

striped  cotton  cloth  {susl)  is  made  there  in   considerable  quantities. 

A  particularly  excellent  form  of  cotton  check  (khes) 

iradeand.         -g    ma(je   at    Leiah.      The    weaving   of  baskets   and 
communications.  .  °  . 

other   articles  from  the    dwarf-palm    employs   a   fair 

number   of  workers.     Water-mills    for   grinding   corn   are    worked    in 

large  numbers  on  the  hill  streams  of  Isa  Khel. 

The  chief  exports  are  salt,  alum,  iron  vessels,  sftsi,  coal,  articles  made 

from  the  dwarf-palm,  wheat  and  other  grain,  oilseeds,  wool,  and  hides. 

The   principal   imports  are   iron,  cotton   piece-goods  and  thread,   silk, 


A  DMINISTRA  TIOX  323 

sugar,  rice,  potatoes,  and  timber.     Exports  go  chiefly  by  rail  and  river 
to  Multan  and  Karachi.      The  chief  centres  of  trade  are  Mianwali, 

Kalabagh,  Isa  Khel,  Bhakkar,  Leiah,  and  Karor. 

The  line  of  the  North-Western  Railway  running  from  Multan  to 
Rawalpindi  passes  through  the  District,  with  a  short  branch  to  Mari 
opposite  Kalabagh,  and  is  joined  at  Kundian  by  the  Sind-Sagar  branch 
from  Lala-Musa.  There  are  2  miles  of  metalled  road  under  the  Public 
Works  department,  and  200  miles  of  unmetalled  roads  maintained  by 
the  District  board.  The  principal  road  runs  parallel  to  the  railway 
through  Mianwali,  Bhakkar,  and  Leiah.  There  is  no  wheeled  traffic, 
camels,  mules,  and  donkeys  being  the  means  of  conveyance.  A  great 
deal  of  traffic  is  carried  on  the  Indus  to  Multan  and  Sukkur.  The 
Indus  is  crossed  opposite  Dera  Ismail  Khan  by  a  bridge  of  boats 
in  the  cold  season,  replaced  by  a  steam  ferry  in  the  hot  season,  and 
by  thirteen  ordinary  ferries.  Inflated  skins  are  largely  used  by  the 
natives  for  crossing  the  river. 

The  District  has  never  suffered  seriously  from  famine.     The  Kachhi 

and  a  large  proportion  of  Isa  Khel  are  rendered  secure  by  irrigation 

or    floods,    while    the    scattered    cultivation    in    the         _ 

,„,    ,    •  •    ,  i  ,i  •    •      •  T  Famine. 

I  hal    is   entirely  dependent   on   well-irrigation.      In 

the  famine  year  of  1899- 1900  the  area  of  crops  matured  exceeded 

70  per  cent,  of  the  normal  area. 

The  District  is  divided  for  purposes  of  administration  into  the  four 

tahsl/s  of  Mianwali,  Isa  Khel,  Bhakkar,  and  Leiah,  each  under 

a  tahslldar  and  a  naib-tahslldar.     The  two  last  form    A  ^    . 

_.,    , ,  .  ..  .  .  ,         ,         ,  c  Administration, 

the    Bhakkar   subdivision,   under   the  charge    of   an 

Assistant  Commissioner.     The  Deputy-Commissioner  is  aided  by  three 

Assistant  or  Extra-Assistant  Commissioners,  one  of  whom  is  in  charge 

of  the   District  treasury.     For  the  prevention  of  the  illicit  extraction 

of  salt,   a  preventive  establishment  supervised   by  a  European  officer 

is  located  at  selected  points  among  the  hills,  from  which  all  exposed 

salt  can  be  seen. 

The  Deputy-Commissioner  as  District  Magistrate  is  responsible  for 

criminal  justice.     The  District  Judge  is  in  charge  of  civil  judicial  work. 

and  both  officers  are  under  the    supervision    of  the    Divisional  and 

Sessions   Judge    of  the   Shahpur    Civil    Division.      There   are    three 

Munsifs  :  one  sits  at  head-quarters,  one  at  Bhakkar,  and  one  at  Karor. 

The  Frontier  Crimes  Regulation  is  in  force  throughout  the  District. 

The  Isa  Khel  tahsil  is  subject  to  inroads  from  trans-border  outlaws 

and  their   confederates  in  Kohat  and  Bannu.     Cattle-stealing  is    the 

principal  crime.     Besides  the    facilities  which  the  great  Thai    desert 

affords   for   transporting  cattle    into    other  Districts,   the   high  jungle 

along  the  bank  of  the   Indus    makes   a    most   effective  hiding-place, 

especially  in  the  flood  season.     Crime  in  the  Thai  also  is  very  hard 


324  MI  AN  \V All  DISTRICT 

to  detect,  owing  to  the  great  distances  between  police  stations.  Pro- 
fessional trackers  are  largely  employed,  and  occasionally  accomplish 
marvellous  feats  of  long-distance  tracking. 

The  fiscal  conditions  which  obtain  in  the  north  are  very  different 
from  those  of  the  southern  tahsils,  and  even  the  two  northern  tahsils 
have  widely  different  histories.  Mianwali  appears  to  have  paid  the 
large  sum  of  i^  lakhs  under  Sikh  rule.  Lump  assessments  were  made 
on  annexation  and  in  1850,  until  in  1853  the  Deputy-Commissioner 
of  Leiah  made  a  summary  settlement  of  all  the  country  west  and  south 
of  the  Salt  Range,  including  the  modern  tahsils  of  Mianwali,  Leiah, 
and  Bhakkar.  Leiah  and  Bhakkar  had  been  summarily  settled  once 
before,  and  a  careful  measurement  of  all  the  cultivation  was  made. 
The  demand  for  the  three  tahsils  was  more  than  3^  lakhs.  Various 
other  summary  settlements  were  made  in  these  tahsils,  but  the  Leiah 
District  was  broken  up  in  1861. 

Isa  Khel  became  subject  to  the  Durranis  on  the  downfall  of  the 
Mughal  empire,  and  paid  revenue  to  them,  sometimes  without,  but 
more  often  after,  coercion.  In  1836  the  Sikhs  established  themselves 
here.  The  annual  amount  they  realized  is  not  known,  but  after 
annexation  a  quarter  of  the  estimated  value  of  the  crops  was  collected 
for  four  years.  In  1853  John  Nicholson  made  a  summary  settlement, 
based  on  these  collections,  imposing  a  severe  assessment  which  lasted 
for  five  years.  In  1857  another  and  more  lenient  summary  assess- 
ment was  made,  which  remained  in  force  for  eighteen  years. 

The  regular  settlement  of  Bannu  District,  made  in  187 1-9,  treated 
the  tahsils  of  Mianwali  and  Isa  Khel  very  lightly.  A  fluctuating 
assessment  was  generally  levied  in  the  riverain  tracts,  Rs.  1-4  per  acre 
being  charged  on  all  land  sown  in  any  year,  except  land  newly  broken 
up,  which  paid  12  annas.  These  tahsils  came  under  revision  of 
settlement  in  1903,  and  an  increase  of  Rs.  72,000,  or  39  per  cent., 
on  the  old  revenue  of  1-9  lakhs  is  expected. 

The  regular  settlement  of  Dera  Ismail  Khan  District  was  carried 
out  from  1872  to  1879.  The  Thai  tract  of  the  Bhakkar  and  Leiah 
tahsils  was  assessed  at  a  fixed  revenue,  but  the  assessment  broke  down, 
and  since  1887  a  semi-fluctuating  system  has  been  in  force.  The 
Indus  valley  portion  of  these  two  tahsils  was  originally  assessed  at 
a  fluctuating  acreage  rate.  At  the  latest  settlement,  1 898-1 904,  the 
same  system  of  semi-fluctuating  assessment,  somewhat  modified  in 
its  details,  has  been  continued  in  the  Thai  of  both  tahsils.  The 
principle  is  that,  when  a  share  equal  to  from  one-fourth  to  three-fourths 
of  the  area  irrigated  by  a  well  falls  out  of  cultivation,  a  corresponding 
fraction  of  the  assessment  will  be  remitted.  The  revenue  on  the  'dry' 
cultivation  and  the  grazing  revenue  are  fixed.  In  the  Indus  valley 
a  system  of  fluctuating  crop-rates  has  been  introduced,  and  the  whole 


ADMINISTRA  TION 


325 


revenue  varies.  The  demand,  including  cesses,  for  the  whole  District  in 
1903-4  amounted  to  nearly  5-7  lakhs.  The  average  size  of  a  proprietary 
holding  is  57  acres,  but  some  very  large  holdings  raise  the  average. 

The   collections   of  land  revenue  alone  and    of  total  revenue  are 
shown  below,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1 900- 1. 

1903-4. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue     . 

4»27 
6,oS 

4,06 
6,07 

The  District  contains  six  municipalities :  Mianwali,  Isa  Khel, 
Kalabagh,  Bhakkar,  Leiah,  and  Karor.  Outside  these,  local  affairs 
are  managed  by  a  District  board,  whose  income  in  1903-4  was 
Rs.  40,000,  mainly  derived  from  a  local  rate.  The  expenditure  in 
the  same  year  was  Rs.  45,000,  the  largest  item  being  Rs.  1 7,000 
spent  on   education. 

The  police  force  numbers  492  of  all  ranks,  including  81  municipal 
and  8  ferry  police,  under  a  Superintendent,  who  usually  has  3  inspectors 
under  him.  There  are  15  police  stations  and  5  police  posts.  The 
District  jail  at  head-quarters  has  accommodation  for  317  prisoners 
of  all  classes. 

The  District  stands  sixteenth  among  the  twenty-eight  Districts  of 
the  Province  in  respect  of  the  literacy  of  its  population.  In  190 1  the 
proportion  of  literate  persons  was  3*7  per  cent.  (6-7  males,  0-3  females). 
The  number  of  pupils  under  instruction  was  7,589  in  1 900-1,  and 
8,290  in  1903-4.  In  the  latter  year  there  were  4  secondary,  72  primary, 
and  3  special  (public)  schools,  13  advanced  and  208  elementary  (private) 
schools,  with  412  girls  in  the  public  and  967  in  the  private  schools. 
The  principal  school  is  the  high  school  at  Mianwali  town.  Industrial 
schools  for  girls  are  maintained  at  Isa  Khel  and  Mankera.  The  total 
expenditure  on  education  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  27,000,  of  which  Local 
funds  contributed  Rs.  15,000,  municipal  funds  Rs.  2,600,  and  fees 
Rs.  4,000. 

Besides  the  Mianwali  civil  hospital,  the  District  has  five  out-lying 
dispensaries.  These  institutions  in  1904  treated  a  total  of  98,407  out- 
patients and  2,349  in-patients,  and  4,962  operations  were  performed. 
The  expenditure  was  Rs.  15,000,  District  and  municipal  funds  con- 
tributing Rs.  5,000  each,  and  Government  Rs.  5,000. 

The.  number  of  successful  vaccinations  in  1903-4  was  10,464, 
representing  24-7  per  1,000  of  the  population.  The  Vaccination  Act 
has  been  extended  to  the  towns  of  Mianwali,  Isa  Khel,  and  Leiah. 

[D.  C.  J.  Ibbetson,  District  Gazetteers  of  Bannu  and  Dera  Ismail 
Khan  (1883-4)  ;  S.  S.  Thorburn,  Settlement  Report  of  Bannu  (1S79)  ; 
H.  St.  G.  Tucker,  Settlement  Report  of  Dera  Ismail  Khan  (1879).] 


326  MIANWALI   TAHSIL 

Mianwali  Tahsil. — Head-quarters  tahsil  of  Mianwali  District, 
Punjab,  lying  between  320  11/ and  330  2'N.  and  710  16' and  7i°s8'E., 
with  an  area  of  1,478  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was 
111,883,  compared  with  103,909  in  1891.  It  contains  the  town  of 
Mianwali1  (population,  3,591),  the  head-quarters;  and  69  villages. 
The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  72,000. 
The  northern  part  of  the  tahsil  is  enclosed  between  the  western  slopes 
of  the  Salt  Range  on  the  east  and  the  Indus  on  the  west,  forming 
a  picturesque  corner,  which  contrasts  with  the  monotonous  level  of 
the  remainder  of  the  cis-Indus  territory  of  the  District,  in  which  its 
southern  part  lies. 

Mianwali  Town1. — Head-quarters  of  the  District  and  tahsil  of 
Mianwali,  Punjab,  situated  in  320  35'  N.  and  710  31'  E.,  on  the  high 
left  bank  of  the  Indus,  655  feet  above  sea-level.  It  is  the  residence 
of  a  notable  Saiyid  family,  the  Mians  of  Mianwali,  descended  from 
a  local  Muhammadan  saint,  and  themselves  possessing  a  great  reputa- 
tion for  sanctity.  Population  (1901),  3,591.  Mianwali  was  long  the 
head-quarters  of  the  Mianwali  subdivision  of  Bannu  District,  and  was 
made  the  head-quarters  of  the  new  Mianwali  District  in  1901.  The 
civil  lines  are  situated  about  half  a  mile  from  Mianwali,  which  is 
little  more  than  a  village,  and  has  no  commercial  importance.  It  was 
made  a  municipality  in  1903-4,  and  contains  a  hospital  and  a  model 
Government  high  school. 

Michni. — Fort  in  the  District  and  tahsil  of  Peshawar,  North- West 
Frontier  Province,  situated  in  340  n'  N.  and  710  27'  E.,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Kabul  river,  close  to  where  it  issues  from  the  hills,  and 
15  miles  north  of  Peshawar  city.  The  fort,  which  commands  an 
important  ferry  over  the  Kabul  river,  was  constructed  in  1851-2  on 
account  of  the  numerous  raids  by  Mohmands  from  beyond  the  frontier. 
Lieutenant  Boulnois,  in  command  of  the  party  constructing  the  fort, 
was  murdered  here  by  Mohmands  in  1852  ;  and  in  1873  Major 
MacDonald,  the  commandant  of  the  post,  was  murdered  in  its  vicinity. 
There  is  no  village  of  Michni  ;  but  the  Tarakzai  Mohmands  have  settle- 
ments all  round,  those  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  being  in  British 
territory.  Fort  Michni  was  formerly  under  the  command  of  a  field 
officer,  subordinate  to  the  Brigadier-General  at  Peshawar ;  but  in 
1885  it  was  handed  over  to  the  border  military  police,  who  now  hold 
it  with  a  garrison  of  twenty  men. 

Midagesidurga. — Fortified  hill,  3,376  feet  high,  in  the  north-east 
of  Tumkur  District,  Mysore,  situated  in  130  50'  N.  and  770  12'  E. 
It  is  said  to  be  named  after  a  princess  who  was  burned  here  with  the 
corpse  of  her  husband.     Ranis  of  the  same  family  held  it  till  it  was 

1  Created  a  municipality  since  the  last  Census,  and  hence  not  shown  as  a  town  in 
the  table  on  p.  319. 


MIDNAPORE    DISTRICT  327 

taken  about  1670  by  the  Maddagiri  chiefs,  in  whose  hands  it  remained 
till  captured  by  Haidar  All  in  1761.  The  Marathas  took  it  in  1767, 
but  it  was  recovered  by  Tipu  Sultan  in  1774. 

Midnapore  District  (Medtnipur). — Southernmost  District  in  the 
Burdwan  Division  of  Bengal,  lying  between  210  36'  and  220  57'  N.  and 
86°  $$'  and  88°  1 1'  E.,  with  an  area  of  5,186  square  miles.  Midnapore 
is  the  largest  and  most  populous  of  the  Bengal  Regulation  Districts  ; 
and  it  is  proposed  to  subdivide  it  into  two  Districts  in  order  to  ensure 
greater  efficiency  of  administration.  Its  western  boundary  marches 
with  Balasore  District  and  the  Mayurbhanj  Tributary  State  of  Orissa 
and  with  the  Singhbhum  and  Manbhiim  Districts  of  Chota  Xagpur, 
while  its  southern  boundary  is  the  coast-line  of  the  Bay  of  Bengal- 
To  the  east  the  Hooghlv  river  and  its  tributary  the  Rupnarayan 
separate  it  from  the  Twenty-four  Parganas,  Howrah,  and  Hooghly 
Districts,  while  on  the  north  it  is  bounded  by  Bankura. 

This  extensive  District  comprises  three  tracts  of  well-marked  charac- 
teristics :  the  north  and  west  are  of  laterite  formation,  the  east  is 
deltaic,    and   the   south   is   seaboard.      The   Contai 

and  Tamluk  subdivisions,  on  the  sea-coast  and  the         Physical 

aspects. 
estuary  of  the  Hooghly,  contain  the  mouths  of  the 

Rasulpur  and  Haldl  rivers.     They  are  comparatively  free  from  malaria 

and  produce  very  rich  crops  of  rice.     The  Ghatal  subdivision,  farther 

north,  slopes  back  from  the  bank  of  the  Rupnarayan  ;  the  soil  is  a  rich 

alluvium,  but  much  of  its  area  is  liable  to  floods,  and,  though  excellent 

crops  are  reaped,  the   inhabitants   suffer  greatly  from  malaria.     The 

head-quarters   subdivision   consists  in   the   north   and   west   of  thinly 

wooded  and   rocky  uplands  forming  part  of  the  fringe  of  the  Chota 

Nagpur  plateau  ;  here  the  climate  is  good,  though  the  laterite  soil  is 

dry   and    infertile.     Towards   the  east  and  south   the  level  dips,  and 

a  swampy  hollow  is  formed  between  the  elevated  country  to  the  west 

and  the  comparatively  high  ground  along  the  coast.     The  conditions 

in  this  tract  are  very  similar  to  those  in  the  Ghatal  subdivision  which 

it  adjoins.     In  the  north-west  corner  there  are  several  hills  over  1,000 

feet  in  height,  but  the  rest  of  the  District  is  nearly  level.     The  scenery 

is  varied  in  the  north  and  west,  where  there  are  extensive  sal  forests 

and  the  country  is  undulating  and  picturesque. 

The  chief  rivers  are  the  Hooghlv  and  its  three  tidal  tributaries,  the 

Rupnarayan,  the  Haldl,  and  the  Rasulpur.     The   Rupnarayan  joins 

the  Hooghly  opposite  Hooghly  Point  :  its  chief  tributary  is  the  Silai, 

flowing  in  a  tortuous  course  through   the  north  of  the   District  and 

navigable  as  far  as  Ghatal.     The  Haldl  falls  into  the  Hooghly  opposite 

the   northern    point   of  Sagar   Island.      Its   principal    tributaries    are 

the  Kaliaghai  and  the  Kasai,  neither  of  which  is  navigable  ;  the  latter 

rises   in    Manbhiim  District  and  flows  past  Midnapore  town.      The 


328  MID NA PORE   DISTRICT 

Rasulpur  rises  in  the  south  of  the  District,  and  joins  the  Hooghly  a 
little  below  Kedgeree  and  the  Cowcolly  lighthouse.  The  Subarna- 
rekha  enters  the  District  from  Singhbhum,  and  passes  through  the 
jungle  tract  of  Western  Midnapore  into  Balasore  District;  it  is  not 
navigable. 

In  the  extreme  north-west  corner  of  the  District  there  is  a  low  ridge, 
formed  of  grey  and  bluish  grey  micacean  schists  with  bands  of  a  more 
igneous  character.  The  plains  are  covered  in  the  north  and  west  by 
lateritic  rocks,  which  gradually  give  way  in  the  south  and  east  to  the 
ordinary  alluvium  of  the  Gangetic  delta.  At  the  surface  the  laterite 
invariably  contains  small  rounded  fragments  of  other  rocks,  and  in 
places  these  become  conglomeratic,  pebbles  of  quartz  coated  with  oxide 
of  iron  and  rounded  fragments  of  other  rocks  being  frequently  formed. 
Close  to  Midnapore  town,  where  a  section  is  exposed,  more  than 
50  feet  of  solid  laterite  are  seen  superposed  in  large  tabular  masses 
upon  a  soft  soapy  greyish  white  and  reddish  clay,  resembling  the  kaolin 
clays  which  result  from  the  decomposition  of  felspathic  rocks. 

In  land  under  rice  cultivation  are  found  the  usual  marsh  weeds  of 
the  Gangetic  plain  and  many  sedges,  while  the  surface  of  ponds, 
ditches,  and  still  streams  is  covered  with  aquatic  plants.  The  home- 
steads are  embedded  in  shrubberies  of  semi-spontaneous  growth. 
Some  species  of  figs,  notably  the  plpal  and  the  banyan,  make  up,  along 
with  the  red  cotton-tree  (Bombax  malabaricum),  Mangifera,  Moringa, 
and  Odina  JVodier,  the  arborescent  part  of  these  thickets,  in  which 
numbers  of  Phoenix  dactylifera  and  palmyra  palms  (Borassus  flabelli- 
fer)  are  often  present.  Hedges  and  waste  places  are  covered  with 
climbing  creepers  and  various  milkweeds. 

Bears  and  deer  are  still  plentiful  in  the  west,  and  leopards  and 
hyenas  are  not  uncommon.  There  are  a  few  wild  elephants  and 
wolves,  and  a  tiger  is  occasionally  seen.  Wild  buffaloes  were  formerly 
common  in  the  south,  but  these  have  disappeared  with  the  extension 
of  cultivation.  Small  game  is  plentiful,  including  wild  geese,  ducks, 
snipe,  ortolans,  teal,  and  hares ;  but,  excepting  the  migratory  birds,  all 
game  is  decreasing.     Snakes  are  numerous. 

The  climate  of  the  arid  tract  in  the  north  and  west  is  very  different 
from  that  of  the  swamps  in  the  east  and  south.  The  average  mean 
temperature  for  the  whole  District  is  about  8o°.  The  coast-line  is 
wetter  and  cooler  than  the  higher  portion.  In  the  north  and  west, 
where  the  surface  is  of  red  laterite  and  the  hot  westerly  winds  from 
Central  India  penetrate,  exceptionally  high  day  temperatures  are  a 
feature  of  the  hot  months,  and  the  mean  maximum  temperature  rises 
to  1020  in  April  and  May.  The  monthly  rainfall  averages  less  than  an 
inch  for  November,  December,  January,  and  February,  and  between 
1  and  i|   inches  in  March  and  April,  after  which  there  is  a  rapid 


HISTORY  329 

increase.  The  rainfall  in  June  averages  9»So  inches,  in  July  12-42,  in 
August  13-18,  in  September  9-04,  and  in  October  4-43  inches.  The 
annual  total  averages  59  inches. 

The  great  cyclone  of  1864  caused  serious  loss  of  life  and  property 
in  the  south-east ;  no  less  than  53,000  deaths  were  reported,  and  the 
returns  were  far  from  complete.  The  immediate  losses  were  equalled, 
if  not  exceeded,  by  the  mortality  caused  by  the  scarcity  and  pestilence 
that  resulted  from  the  destruction  of  the  crops  and  the  pollution  of  the 
drinking-water  supply.  Heavy  storms,  all  causing  more  or  less  damage 
to  life  and  property,  have  occurred  on  twelve  other  occasions  during 
the  last  seventy  years.  In  the  alluvial  tract  the  rivers  frequently  over- 
flow their  banks  and  cause  widespread  havoc  to  the  crops  ;  owing  to 
silt  the  mouth  of  the  rivers  are  obstructed,  and  large  tracts  of  country 
remain  submerged  for  weeks  after  a  flood.  In  1889  the  Bengal 
Government  found  it  necessary  to  appoint  a  Commission  to  investigate 
the  causes  of  the  frequent  occurrence  of  these  floods,  and  as  a  result 
the  cross-damming  of  tidal  channels  for  agricultural  purposes  has  been 
restricted. 

The  eastern  portion  of  Midnapore  originally  formed  part  of  the 
kingdom  of  Suhma  or  Tarnralipta,  the  ancient  name  of  Tamluk,  which 
is  now  the  head-quarters  of  a  subdivision  on  the 
Rupnarayan  river.  It  derives  its  name  from  tamra 
('  copper '),  which  was  once  an  important  article  of  export.  The 
earliest  traditional  kings  of  Tamluk  were  Kshattriyas  of  the  Peacock 
dynasty,  who  were  succeeded  by  Kaibarttas.  The  whole  District,  with 
Kalinga  or  Orissa,  came  under  Buddhist  influence  in  the  fifth  century 
b.  c.  Early  in  the  fifth  century  a.d.  the  Chinese  pilgrim  Fa  Hian  spent 
two  years  at  Tamluk  and  thence  took  ship  for  Ceylon.  Another 
Chinese  pilgrim,  Hiuen  Tsiang,  wrote  of  Tamluk  in  the  seventh 
century  as  still  an  important  harbour,  with  10  Buddhist  monasteries 
containing  1,000  monks  and  a  pillar  of  king  Asoka.  Midnapore 
District  nearly  coincides  with  the  Muhammadan  division  known  as 
sarkdr  Jaleswar,  which  had  for  its  capital  the  town  of  that  name  now 
situated  in  Balasore  District,  and  was  included  in  Orissa  at  the  time 
of  Todar  Mai's  settlement  in  1582.  This  sarkdr  paid  to  the  Mughal 
emperor  a  revenue  of  i2|  lakhs,  but  during  the  last  half-century  of 
Muhammadan  rule  the  Marathas  collected  revenue  from  the  southern 
portions  of  the  District. 

It  was  at  Hi j ill,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rasulpur  river,  that  Job 
Charnock  with  a  small  force  defended  himself  successfully  in  1687 
against  an  overwhelming  army  of  Mughals,  and  it  was  from  this  place 
that  he  sailed  to  found  Calcutta.  The  British  occupation  of  the 
District  dates  from  the  year  1760,  when  Mir  Kasim,  who  had  been 
made  Subahdar  of  Bengal  by  the  British,  assigned  to  the  East  India 


330  MIDXAPORE    DISTRICT 

Company  the  three  Districts  of  Burdwan,  Midnapore,  and  Chittagong 
to  meet  its  military  expenses.  By  a  subsequent  treaty,  dated  July  10, 
1763,  Mir  Jafar,  who  had  been  reinstated  in  place  of  Mir  Kasim, 
confirmed  the  cession  of  these  Districts,  which  were  then  estimated  to 
furnish  nearly  a  third  of  the  whole  revenue  of  Bengal.  As  a  result  of 
the  decisive  battle  of  Buxar,  the  Diwani  of  Bengal,  Bihar,  and  Orissa 
was  conferred  in  perpetuity  on  the  East  India  Company  in  1765.  The 
Orissa  therein  referred  to  included  only  the  District  of  Midnapore 
and  a  part  of  Hooghly  ;  Orissa  proper  was  not  conquered  from  the 
Marathas  until  1803.  The  principal  officer  of  the  Company  in  this 
province  was  the  Chief  or  Resident  at  Midnapore. 

In  the  early  years  of  British  administration  much  trouble  was  given 
by  the  chiefs  of  the  hilly  country  within  as  well  as  without  the  boun- 
dary, and  frequent  expeditions  had  to  be  made  against  them.  The 
southern  portion  of  the  District,  now  the  Tamluk  and  Contai  sub- 
divisions, was  at  first  administered  by  a  Salt  Agent  and  Collector  at 
HijilT.  Tamluk  was  transferred  to  Midnapore  in  1789;  but  Hijili 
remained  a  separate  Collectorate  up  to  1836,  when  a  quarter  of  it  was 
amalgamated  with  Midnapore  and  the  rest  with  Balasore.  Dhalbhum 
originally  formed  part  of  Midnapore,  but  it  was  transferred  in  1833  to 
Manbhum  and  subsequently  to  Singhbhum ;  in  1876,  however,  forty- 
five  outlying  villages  were  again  included  in  Midnapore.  In  1872  the 
parganas  of  Chandrakona  and  Barda  were  transferred  from  Hooghly 
District. 

The  principal  object  of  archaeological  interest  is  the  temple  at 
Tamluk,  which  is  of  Buddhist  origin,  but  is  now  dedicated  to  the 
goddess  Barga-Bhima,  or  Kali.  In  the  high  lands  there  are  various 
old  garhs  or  forts  of  the  petty  jungle  Rajas,  of  which  little  is  left  but 
the  sites.  Many  of  the  large  tanks  are  of  great  age,  and  some  of  the 
embankments  constructed  to  restrain  the  rivers  are  anterior  to  the 
British  occupation. 

The  population  fell  from  2,542,920  in  1872  to  2,515,565  in  1881, 
but  rose  again  to  2,631,466  in  1891  and  to  2,789,114  in  1901.  The 
decrease  in  1881  was  due  to  the  prevalence  of  an 
epidemic  of  malaria  known  as  the  '  Burdwan  fever,' 
but  since  that  year  there  has  been  a  steady  increase.  During  the  last 
decade  there  was  an  advance  of  about  6  per  cent.  Midnapore  is 
now  fairly  healthy,  with  the  exception  of  the  low  tracts  of  the  Ghatal 
subdivision  and  the  centre  of  the  I  )istrict,  where  malaria  is  prevalent. 
Hepatitis  is  not  uncommon,  and  elephantiasis  exists  in  the  swampy 
parts  of  the  alluvial  portion  of  the  District.  Cholera  has  diminished 
since  the  opening  of  the  railway,  as  the  pilgrims  to  and  from  Purl  no 
longer  throng  the  roads  spreading  the  disease  in  their  train.  The 
principal  statistics  of  the  Census  of  1901  are  shown  below  : — 


POPULA  TIOX 


33i 


Subdivision. 

Area  in  square 

miles. 

Xumber  of 

Population. 

1  " 

39 1 
S74 

893 
710 

5  =  i- 

6  =  =  &  3 
"  '5  *;  q  - 
?  •-■=  u"2 

-    g    ^"-    S 

Pi     a 

Number  of 

persons  ablctO 

read  and 

write. 

X 

a 
H 

I 

5 
1 

7 

V 

> 

Midnapore 
Ghatal    . 
Tamluk  . 
Contai     . 

District  total 

3.271 

372 

653 
849 

3-7S2 
I.042 

'•57s 

2.062 

1,277.749 
324.991 
583,238 
603,156 

+    4-5 
—   0-9 
+   90 
+  io-6 

95.59* 
38,100 

92,139 

69,  2  2  ~ 

5,186* 

8,464 

2.789,114 

538 

+   6-o 

295,064 

*  Includes  41  square  miles  returned  as  uninhabited  river-beds. 

Five  of  the  towns— Ghatal,  Chaxdrakoxa,  Kharar,  Ra.mjI- 
banpur,  and  Khirpai — are  situated  in  the  north-east  of  the  District, 
which  suffered  from  the  '  Burdwan  fever '  epidemic,  and  they  have 
scarcely  yet  regained  the  population  they  then  lost.  The  remaining 
towns  are  Midnapore,  the  headquarters  station,  and  Tamluk.  The 
pressure  of  population  is  greatest  along  the  banks  of  the  Rupnarayan 
and  the  estuary  of  the  Hooghly,  the  maximum  density  being  found 
in  the  Tamluk  thdna,  where  there  are  1,156  persons  per  square  mile. 
Farther  inland  the  climate  is  bad  and  the  density  gradually  de- 
creases. In  the  west  the  cultivable  area  is  small,  and  the  density 
steadily  diminishes  until,  on  the  confines  of  Singhbhum  and  Mayur- 
bhanj,  it  drops  to  259  per  square  mile.  The  Contai  subdivision  is  the 
most  progressive  part  of  the  District,  the  increase  being  greatest  in  the 
Contai  thdna,  which  in  the  course  of  ten  years  has  added  nearly  a  sixth 
to  its  population,  and  in  the  other  three  coast  thdnas.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  Ghatal  subdivision  and  the  Debra,  Sabang,  and  Narayangarh 
thdnas  in  the  head-quarters  subdivision  are  decadent.  This  is  due,  not 
only  to  the  prevalence  of  fever,  but  also  to  a  movement  of  the  popula- 
tion from  the  densely  crowded  and  waterlogged  tracts  in  the  north-east 
and  centre  of  the  District  to  the  newly  reclaimed  lands  along  the  coast 
and  tidal  rivers  in  the  Contai  and  Tamluk  subdivisions.  There  is 
a  small  loss  by  emigration.  The  railway  has  attracted  coolies  and 
employes,  but  it  has  also  facilitated  temporary  migration  to  Calcutta 
and  Hooghly.  Of  every  100  persons,  80  speak  Bengali,  10  Oriya, 
3  Hindi,  and  the  remainder  other  languages.  Oriya  is  spoken  in  the 
Contai  subdivision  and  also  in  the  western  thdnas  of  the  head-quarters 
subdivision.  Hindus  number  2,467,047,  or  88  per  cent,  of  the  total ; 
Muhammadans,  184,958,  or  7  per  cent.  ;  and  Animists,  135,050,  or 
5  per  cent.  The  Hindus  and  Muhammadans  have  increased  slightly 
at  the  expense  of  the  Animists,  who  are  found  only  in  the  north  and 
west  of  the  District. 

The  Kaibarttas  are  the  great  race  or  caste,  numbering  no  less  than 
883,000,   or    nearly   a  third    of  the   whole    population.      The    Bagdis 

VOL.  XVII.  Y 


33* 


MIDXAPORE    DISTRICT 


(142,000),  another  aboriginal  caste,  who  gave  their  name  to  the  ancient 
Bagri  (South  Bengal),  are  also  strongly  represented  ;  and  so  are  the 
S:idgops  (131,000),  a  cultivating  branch  of  the  Goalas.  The  Santals 
(148,000)  are  numerous  in  the  north-west  of  the  District.  Of  the 
higher  castes,  Brahmans  (1 14,000)  are  more  numerous  than  elsewhere 
in  Bengal  proper,  and  the  Kayasths  with  the  Karans,  the  indigenous 
writer  caste  of  Orissa,  number  91,000.  The  Baishnabs  (93,000)  have 
considerably  increased  during  the  last  decade,  but  the  Tantis  or 
weavers  have  lost  ground.  Of  the  Muhammadans,  121,000  are  Shaikhs 
and  22,000  are  Pathans.  Agriculture  supports  77  per  cent,  of  the 
population,  industry  10  per  cent.,  and  the  professions  3  per  cent.  The 
population  is  more  distinctively  agricultural  than  in  any  other  part  of 
"West  or  Central  Bengal. 

The  Christian  population  is  increasing,  and  in  1901  numbered  1,974, 
of  whom  1,545  were  natives.  The  American  Free  Baptist  Mission 
works  among  both  the  Bengalis  and  the  Santals ;  there  is  a  small 
Roman  Catholic  mission  to  the  Santals ;  and  Church  of  England 
missions  are  established  at  Midnapore  town  and  Kharakpur. 

The  new  alluvium  in  the  east  and  south  produces  abundant  rice 
crops.  In  the  west  and  north  rice  is  grown  in  the  depressions  between 
successive  ridges  by  terracing  the  slopes,  and  maize, 
millets,  oilseeds,  and  pulses  are  grown  on  the  uplands; 
but  the  crests  of  the  ridges  are  very  infertile.  Along  the  sea-board  and 
on  the  banks  of  tidal  rivers  and  creeks,  dikes  are  necessary  to  keep  out 
the  salt  water,  and  similar  embankments  are  erected  to  protect  the 
lowlands  in  the  interior  from  inundation  by  floods.  The  non-tidal 
rivers  are  dammed  for  irrigation  purposes,  so  that  the  alluvial  tract 
is  covered  with  a  network  of  embankments  and  cross-dams,  which 
seriously  impede  the  drainage,  and  in  years  of  heavy  rainfall  large 
areas  are  waterlogged.  The  chief  agricultural  statistics  for  1903-4 
are  shown  below,  in  square  miles  : — 


Agriculture. 


Subdivision. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated 
from  canals. 

Cultivable 

waste. 

Midnapore 

Ghatal 

Tamliik 

Contai 

Uninhabited  river-bet's 

Total 

3,2/1 
372 
f>53 
849 

4' 

1,876 
242 
376 
633 

130 
15 

243 

47 

171 

89 

5,»  86 

3,127 

'45 

55° 

The  uncultivable  area  extends  over  no  less  than  1,509  square  miles,  in 
the  rocky  western  uplands  and  on  the  sea-shore  and  in  the  big  rivers. 

The  staple  product  is  rice,  which  occupies  nearly  three-fourths  of 
the  cultivated  area.     The  winter  crop,  comprising  93  per  cent,  of  the 


AGRICULTURE  333 

total  area  under  rice,  is  sown  in  the  early  part  of  the  rainy  season  and 
reaped  in  November,  December,  and  January.  In  the  most  highly 
cultivated  parts  the  seed  is  first  sown  in  nurseries,  but  in  the  low-lying 
lands  it  is  sown  broadcast.  The  autumn  crop  is  sown  broadcast  on 
dry  land  in  the  months  of  April,  May,  and  June,  and  reaped  in  August 
and  September.  The  spring  crop  is  sown  broadcast  after  the  rains,  and 
is  cut  in  March  and  April ;  it  usually  requires  irrigation.  The  other 
crops  are  wheat,  barley,  peas,  linseed,  mustard,  sesamum,  sugar-cane, 
pan  {Piper  Betle),  mulberry,  jute,  cotton,  and  indigo.  Tobacco, 
turmeric,  and  market-garden  produce  are  grown  in  small  quantities  on 
the  homestead  lands. 

Land  on  which  winter  rice  is  grown  seldom  yields  a  second  crop,  but 
wheat,  barley,  peas,  and  linseed  are  often  grown  on  land  from  which  an 
early  rice  crop  has  been  taken.  Only  3-6  per  cent,  of  the  cultivated 
area  was  twice  cropped  in  1903-4.  On  some  of  the  uplands  a  crop  is 
raised  only  once  every  two  or  three  years  ;  this  is  usually  sesamum  or 
some  other  variety  of  oilseed.  The  cultivation  of  indigo,  which  was 
grown  on  high  lands  or  the  banks  of  rivers,  has  almost  entirely  died 
out,  as  the  price  of  the  dye  has  fallen  so  low  that  it  no  longer  pays 
to  manufacture  it  here.  The  silk  industry  has  greatly  decayed,  owing 
largely  to  diseases  amongst  the  worms. 

Little  space  exists  for  further  extension  of  cultivation  in  the  alluvial 
tract ;  but  much  good  land  remains  to  be  brought  under  cultivation 
in  the  west,  and  here  the  work  of  reclamation  is  now  in  progress.  The 
out-turn  in  many  parts  might  be  much  increased  by  substituting  trans- 
planted for  broadcast  rice.  Fields  are  often  manured  with  cow-dung 
and  ashes  ;  but  the  canal-irrigated  and  flooded  tracts  do  not  require 
manure,  as  the  silt  brought  down  by  the  water  fertilizes  the  soil. 
Government  loans  are  not  popular,  and  during  the  ten  years  ending 
1904  only  about  Rs.  i,ood  a  year  was  taken  under  the  Land  Im- 
provement Loans  Act  and  nothing  under  the  Agriculturists'  Loans  Act. 

The  cattle  are  of  the  degenerate  species  met  with  in  the  plains  of 
Bengal,  and  it  is  to  be  feared  that  they  are  still  further  deteriorating 
owing  to  the  encroachment  of  tillage  on  the  pasture  lands.  Attempts 
have  been  made  at  Midnapore  town  with  some  success  to  improve  the 
breed  of  cattle  by  importing  cows  from  Bihar  and  bulls  from  Hissar. 
Buffaloes  are  common  in  the  south  and  are  mostly  kept  for  milk. 
No  less  than  forty-three  fairs  are  held,  but  they  are  generally  of  a 
religious  or  semi-religious  nature,  and  few  cattle  are  sold  at  them. 

The  main  source  of  irrigation  is  the  Midnapore  High-level  Canal, 
which  takes  off  from  an  anicut  across  the  Kasai  river  just  below  Midna- 
pore town,  and  runs  to  Ulubaria  on  the  Hooghly,  16  miles  below 
Calcutta.  It  was  completed  in  1873  at  a  cost  of  80  lakhs,  and  has 
a  navigable  length  of  72  miles,  including  the  portions   of  the  Kasai, 

Y  2 


334  MIDNAPORE   DISTRICT 

Rupnarayan,  and  Damodar  rivers  into  which  it  flows  :  regular  steamer 
services,  however,  have  ceased  to  ply  since  the  opening  of  the  Bengal- 
Nagpur  Railway  to  Calcutta.  It  has  several  distributaries,  one  of 
which  is  navigable,  and  in  1901  it  supplied  water  to  80,000  acres  of 
rice,  or  one-twentieth  of  the  crop.  Irrigation  from  tanks  and  embanked 
depressions  is  conducted  in  the  upland  tracts,  but  many  of  these  tanks 
have  been  allowed  by  the  landlords  to  fall  into  decay.  In  a  year  of 
good  rainfall  the  average  yield  per  acre  of  rice  and  straw  from  irrigated 
lands  is  22  and  38  maunds,  compared  with  16  and  29  maunds  respec- 
tively from  unirrigated  lands. 

No  'reserved'  or  protected  forests  exist,  but  the  western  uplands 
are  clothed  with  small  sal  (Shorea  robusta),  mahui  (Bass/a  latifolia), 
tamarind,  and  palas  (Biitea  frondosa).  The  jungle  products  are  lac, 
tasar  silk,  wax,  wood  dye,  bark  fabrics,  resin,  firewood,  and  charcoal. 
The  m  a  hit  a  flower  and  various  jungle  roots  are  used  as  food. 

The  District  contains  no  mines,  but  laterite  and  limestone  are 
quarried.  The  former  is  of  the  kind  known  as  rock  laterite,  and  is 
(.lose  grained,  hard,  and  durable  ;  it  is  generally  met  with  at  a  depth 
varying  from  2  to  4  feet  below  the  surface.  Magnesian  potstones  are 
also  found.  Alluvial  gold  occurs  in  small  quantities,  and  also  iron  and 
soapstone. 

Excellent  mats  are  manufactured  at  Raghunathbari,   Kasijora,  and 

Narajol,  whence  the)-  are  exported  to  Calcutta.     Pottery  is  made  in  the 

neighbourhood  of  Ghatal  for  use  in  the  metropolis, 

radeana         anfj  \^rSLSii  an(j  COpper  utensils  are  manufactured  in 
communications.  l  r  , 

Midnapore   town  for  local  sale.     Bell-metal  ware  is 

extensively   manufactured   in  Kharar,   and  exported  to   Calcutta   and 

elsewhere.      Tasar  silk  is  manufactured  in  the  north,  but  the  processes 

are   old-fashioned  and  the  manufacturers  are  poor.     Weavers  are  to 

be  found  in  Chandrakona  and  other  places,  but  the  industry  is  being 

killed  by  competition  with  machine-made  imported  fabrics.     A   Lyons 

firm  owns  a  silk  factory  at  Guruli  in  the  Ghatal  subdivision.    Salt  was 

formerly  manufactured  by  Government  on  an  extensive  scale  along  the 

coast,  but  the  manufacture  has  now  ceased. 

Large  quantities  of  rice  are  sent  to  Calcutta.       Among  the  other 

exports  are  sugar  and  molasses,  jute,   linseed,  gram,  pulses,  charcoal, 

brass  and  bell-metal  ware,  timber,  hides,  mats,  silk  and  cotton  cloth, 

tasar  silk,   pottery,   and  vegetables.      The   chief  imports   are  cotton 

goods,  coal   and   coke,  kerosene    oil,  gunny,   salt,   tobacco,  potatoes, 

enamelled  ware,  nails,  &c.    The  principal  trading  marts  are  Midnapore, 

Ghatal,  Tamluk,  Kukrahati,  Panskura,  Chandrakona,  Balighai,  Kasiari, 

Garhbeta,  and  Nawada.     Much  trade  is  also   done  at  the  fairs  held 

at  Tulslchura,  Gophballabhpur,  Mahishadal,  and  Egra.     Many  parts  of 

the  District  enjoy  special  facilities  for  trade.    The  tidal  rivers  Hooghly, 


FAMINE  335 

Rupnarayan,  Haldl,  and  Rasulpur  afford  an  easy  means  of  communica- 
tion with  Calcutta,  and  the  canals  carry  much  of  the  rice  exported. 

The  main  line  of  the  Bengal-Nagpur  Railway  from  Calcutta  to 
Bombay  traverses  the  District  from  east  to  west ;  and  at  Kharakpur 
the  East  Coast  section  branches  to  the  south,  and  the  line  through 
Bankura  and  the  Jherria  coal-fields  to  the  north.  These  lines  have 
all  been  opened  since  1899. 

The  Orissa  trunk  road  from  Kola,  on  the  Rupnarayan,  through 
Midnapore  to  Dantan  on  the  frontier  of  Orissa  and  the  pilgrim  road 
from  Midnapore  to  Ranlganj  are  in  charge  of  the  Public  Works  depart- 
ment. They  are  metalled  and,  except  where  they  cross  the  Silai  and 
Kasai,  fully  bridged,  and  have  an  aggregate  length  of  112  miles.  The 
District  board  maintains  364  miles  of  metalled  and  376  miles  of 
unmetalled  roads,  and  there  are  754  miles  of  village  tracks.  The 
principal  roads  are  bridged  except  where  they  cross  big  rivers.  They 
lead  from  Midnapore  to  Chichra  on  the  Singhbhum  border,  from 
Ghatal  to  Sijua  on  the  Manbhum  border,  from  Panskura  to  Tamluk, 
from  Contai  Road  railway  station  to  Contai,  from  Pirakata  to  Garhbeta, 
from  Midnapore  to  the  Burdwan  border,  from  Garhbeta  to  Chandra- 
kona,  and  from  Tamluk  to  Contai.  Notwithstanding  the  numerous 
excellent  roads,  much  of  the  traffic  in  the  interior  is  still  carried  by 
pack-bullocks. 

The  Coast  Canal  runs  from  Geonkhali  at  the  junction  of  the 
Rupnarayan  and  Hooghly  rivers  to  the  Haldl  river,  and  thence  to 
the  Rasulpur  river  and  through  the  canalized  Sarpai  river  to  Contai. 
About  8  miles  above  Contai  it  is  continued  into  Balasore  District. 
It  is  a  tidal  canal  with  locks,  and  is  used  solely  for  drainage  and 
navigation ;  but  the  traffic  has  much  decreased  since  the  opening  of 
the  railway  along  the  East  Coast,  and  the  regular  service  of  steamers 
has  ceased.  The  first  two  reaches  of  this  canal  from  Geonkhali  to 
the  Rasulpur  river,  called  the  Hijili  Tidal  Canal,  were  opened  in  1S73, 
and  the  remainder,  called  the  Orissa  Coast  Canal,  in  1885.  The 
Midnapore  High-level  Canal,  from  opposite  Midnapore  on  the  Kasai 
river  to  Dainan  on  the  Rupnarayan,  was  opened  in  1873;  it  is  used 
for  navigation  as  well  as  irrigation. 

Daily  steamer  services  run  from  Calcutta  via  Geonkhali  to  Tamluk 
and  Kola.  Country  boats  ply  in  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  and  on  the 
Hooghly  and  the  other  tidal  rivers  of  the  District ;  these  are  made 
near  Contai,  are  partly  decked,  and  will  stand  a  moderate  sea. 

The  District  is  not  specially  liable  to  drought,  but  the  years  1766, 
1770,  1792,  1 85 1,  1866,  and   1S97  were   years  of  famine  or  scarcity. 
Of  the  first  three  little  is  known,  but  in  1851  it  was 
estimated  that  nearly  five-eighths  of  the  rice  harvest 
was  destroyed.     In  1866  the  District  was  involved  in  the  great  Orissa 


336  MIDNAPORE   DISTRICT 

famine.     After  a  year  of  exceptional  floods,  a  severe  and  protracted 

drought  in  1865  resulted  in  a  loss  of  half  the  winter  rice  crop,  and 

the  distress  reached  its  height  in  August  and  September,  1866.     Relief 

was  afforded   much   too    late   and   was   meagre  in  the  extreme ;    and 

although  no  accurate  statistics  of  the  mortality  were  obtained,  it  was 

estimated  at  50,000,  or  no  less  than  one-tenth  of  the  total  population 

of  the    famine  tract.     In  1897  a  portion   of  the  Binpur  thatia,  about 

100  square  miles  in  area,  with  a  population  of  25,000,  was  affected 

by  scarcity. 

Midnapore  District  is  one  of  the  heaviest  charges  in  Bengal.     For 

the  purposes  of  administration  it  is  divided  into  four  subdivisions,  with 

AJ    .  .        .       head-quarters  at  Miiixapore,  Ghatal,  Tamluk,  and 
Administration.  „  „.  „  ,.     ' 

Contai.    1  he  staff  at  Midnapore  town  subordinate  to 

the  Magistrate-Collector,  who  is  also  ex-officio  Assistant  to  the  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Tributary  Mahals,  Cuttack,  and  has  the  powers  of 
a  Revenue  Superintendent  of  Canals  in  Howrah  District,  consists 
of  a  Joint-Magistrate,  seven  Deputy-Magistrate-Collectors,  an  Assistant 
Magistrate-Collector,  and  a  special  Deputy-Collector  for  excise.  Each 
of  the  three  outlying  subdivisions  is  in  charge  of  a  Deputy-Magistrate- 
Collector  ;  at  Tamluk  he  is  assisted  by  a  Sub-Deputy,  and  at  Contai 
there  is  a  second  Deputy-Magistrate-Collector  for  the  management  of 
khds  mahals.  The  Executive  Engineer  of  the  Kasai  division  of  the 
Public  Works  department  is  stationed  at  Midnapore. 

Civil  justice  is  administered  by  a  District  Judge,  with  two  Sub- 
Judges  and  four  Munsifs  at  Midnapore,  four  Munsifs  at  Contai,  four 
Munsifs  at  Tamluk,  and  one  Munsif  each  at  Ghatal,  Dantan,  and 
Garhbeta.  The  criminal  courts  include  those  of  the  District  Magistrate, 
the  District  and  Sessions  Judge,  the  Joint,  Assistant,  Deputy,  and  Sub- 
Deputy  Magistrates.  Midnapore  is  a  heavy  criminal  District,  and  has 
long  been  notorious  for  the  number  of  dacoities  committed  within  its 
borders.  These  are  largely  the  work  of  Tuntias,  a  Muhammadan  caste, 
whose  traditional  occupation  is  the  cultivation  of  the  mulberry -tree 
(fiint)  for  feeding  silkworms.  This  occupation  having  become  un- 
profitable, many  of  them  have  taken  to  criminal  courses,  and  are 
professional  thieves  and  dacoits. 

The  current  land  revenue  demand  in  1903-4  was  24-49  lakhs,  of 
which  18-90  lakhs  was  payable  by  2,733  permanently  settled  estates, 
Rs.  89,000  by  200  temporarily  settled  estates,  and  the  balance  by 
67  estates  held  by  Government.  The  demand  is  larger  than  that  of 
any  other  District  in  Bengal  except  Burdwan,  and  is  equivalent  to 
36  per  cent,  of  the  reported  gross  rental  of  the  District,  the  incidence 
on  each  cultivated  acre  being  Rs.  1-2.  The  Permanent  Settlement 
never  extended  to  the  Pataspur  f>argana,  which  adjoins  Orissa  and 
was  in  the  possession  of  the  Marathas,  along  with  that  province,  until 


.  /  DMINIS  7'A>.  1  TIOX  337 

1S03.  Among  the  other  estates  which  escaped  the  Permanent  Settle- 
ment are  Jalamuta,  Majnamuta,  Kalyanpur,  and  Balarampur.  The 
proprietors  of  Jalamuta  and  Majnamuta  refused  to  engage  for  them 
at  the  time  of  the  Permanent  Settlement  on  any  but  temporary 
conditions,  on  account  of  the  liability  of  these  estates  to  inundation. 
Kalyanpur  in  the  west  of  the  District  consists  of  taufir  or  '  excess ' 
lands,  which  by  an  oversight  were  left  unsettled  in  1793.  The  Bala- 
rampur pargana,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Kharakpur,  was  purchased 
by  Government  in  1838  at  a  sale  for  arrears  of  revenue.  Pataspur  was 
surveyed  and  settled  for  fifteen  years  from  1897.  The  other  temporarily 
settled  estates,  with  an  area  of  nearly  500  square  miles,  are  now  under 
resettlement. 

The  average  rent  per  acre  for  occupancy  ryots'  lands  in  the  Pataspur 
estates  is  Rs.  3-4-1,  but  rates  vary  greatly  in  different  parts.  Land  on 
which  winter  rice  is  grown  usually  fetches  about  50  per  cent,  more 
than  that  used  for  early  rice,  and  sugar-cane  land  is  about  twice  as 
valuable  as  the  best  rice  land.  In  addition  to  the  rent,  a  cash 
premium  of  from  Rs.  30  to  Rs.  75  an  acre  is  usually  taken  at  the 
commencement  of  a  new  lease. 

The  following  table  shows  the  collections  of  land  revenue  and  of 
total  revenue  (principal  heads  only),  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1880-1. 

1S90-1.          1900- 1.        1903-4. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

22,45 

31.01 

24,34           22,4°          24,13 
34.95          37,3^         39,75 

Outside  the  municipalities  of  Midnapore,  Tamluk,  Ghatal, 
Chandrakona,  RamjIbanpur,  Khirpai,  and  Kharar,  local  affairs 
are  managed  by  a  District  board,  with  four  subdivisional  local  boards 
and  five  Unions.  The  income  of  the  District  board  in  1903-4  was 
Rs.  3,38,000,  of  which  Rs.  1,75,000  was  derived  from  rates;  and 
the  expenditure  was  Rs.  3,47,000,  of  which  Rs.  2,16,000  was  spent  on 
public  works  and  Rs.  99,000  on  education. 

The  system  of  railways  and  canals  has  already  been  described. 
Embankments  have  been  constructed  on  an  extensive  scale,  some 
with  a  view  to  protecting  the  coast-line  from  the  invasion  of  the 
sea  and  preventing  an  inrush  of  salt  tidal  water  from  the  creeks,  and 
others  to  prevent  the  flooding  of  low  lands  by  the  overflow  from  the 
rivers.  In  all,  no  less  than  785  miles  of  embankments  are  maintained 
by  the  Irrigation  department,  543  miles  at  the  public  expense,  and  the 
balance  at  the  cost  of  the  parties  benefited.  A  sea  dike  nearly 
42  miles  in  length,  extending  from  the  western  boundary  of  the 
District  to  the  Rasulpur  river,  protects  the  coast  from  inundation  by 
storm-waves  :  it  was  constructed  by  Government  in  1864-74  at  a  cost 


333  MIDNAPORE   DISTRICT 

of  6  lakhs.  The  right  bank  of  the  Hooghly  from  the  Rasulpur  to  the 
Rupnarayan  river  is  protected  by  an  embankment,  which  is  extended 
along  the  west  bank  of  the  Rupnarayan  as  far  north  as  Ghatal.  Both 
banks  of  the  tidal  rivers  Haldi  and  Rasulpur  and  of  several  tidal  khals 
are  also  similarly  embanked.  The  Kasai  river  is  hemmed  in  on  both 
banks  for  a  distance  of  120  miles  to  prevent  its  waters  from  over- 
flowing, and  so  is  the  Silai  river  for  a  distance  of  25  miles ;  the 
Kaliaghai  river  is  also  embanked.  Most  of  the  embankments  which 
are  now  maintained  at  public  expense  were  in  existence  before  the 
country  came  under  British  administration ;  they  were  originally  in 
charge  of  the  zamlndars,  but  they  were  greatly  neglected,  and  it  was 
found  necessary  for  Government  to  undertake  their  repair  in  order  to 
ensure  the  punctual  collection  of  the  revenue.  Various  measures  have 
been  adopted  to  improve  the  drainage  in  the  waterlogged  areas  in  the 
east  and  south  of  the  District  by  cutting  channels,  deepening  rivers 
and  k/id/Sy  and  providing  sluices  in  embankments  ;  but  there  is  much 
scope  for  further  work  in  this  direction. 

There  is  a  lighthouse  at  Geonkhali  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Hooghly,  opposite  the  northern  point  of  Sagar  island. 

The  District  contains  26  thanas,  10  outposts,  and  4  road-posts.  In 
addition  to  the  District  Superintendent  and  his  Assistant,  the  force 
includes  7  inspectors,  68  sub-inspectors,  68  head  constables,  649  con- 
stables, and  109  town  chaukldars  ;  there  is  also  a  village  police  of 
494  daffaddrs  and  5,863  chaukldars.  The  regular  force  is  small  for 
this  large  area,  as  there  is  only  one  policeman  to  8-6  square  miles  and 
to  4,832  persons.  The  majority  of  the  village  chaukldars  are  now 
under  Act  VI  (B.C.)  of  1870,  but  many  of  them  in  the  west  of 
the  District  are  still  remunerated  by  service  lands.  The  latter  are  the 
successors  of  the  paiks,  or  foot-soldiers,  who  were  retained  by  the 
zamlndars  of  former  times  as  a  defence  against  the  incursions  of 
Marathas  and  hill-robbers ;  their  service  lands  are  being  gradually 
resumed,  and  they  are  being  enlisted  on  regular  pay  under  the  Bengal 
Chaukidari  Act.  A  Central  jail  at  Midnapore  town  has  accommoda- 
tion for  1,340  prisoners,  and  sub-jails  in  the  outlying  subdivisions 
for  48. 

At  the  Census  of  1901  the  proportion  of  literate  persons  was 
io-6  per  cent.  (20-5  males  and  0-7  females),  a  larger  proportion  than 
in  any  other  part  of  Bengal  except  Calcutta  and  Howrah.  The  total 
number  of  pupils  shown  in  the  returns  of  the  Educational  department 
increased  from  Sr,ooo  in  1883  to  107,000  in  1892-3,  and  118,000  in 
1 900- 1.  There  was  a  slight  fall  in  1903-4,  when  102,000  boys  and 
12,000  girls  were  at  school,  being  respectively  48-8  and  5-7  per  cent. 
of  the  children  of  school-going  age  ;  both  proportions  compare  favour- 
ably with  the  ratios  for  the  whole  of  Bengal.     The  number  of  educa- 


MIDNAPORE    TOWN  339 

tional  institutions,  public  and  private,  in  1903-4  was  4,263,  including 
an  Arts  college,  118  secondary,  4,077  primary,  and  66  special  schools. 
The  expenditure  on  education  was  4-63  lakhs,  of  which  Rs.  35,000 
was  met  from  Provincial  funds,  Rs.  94,000  from  District  funds, 
Rs.  6,000  from  municipal  funds,  and  2-62  lakhs  from  fees.  A  training 
school  at  Binpur  for  aboriginal  tribes  and  depressed  castes,  under  the 
management  of  the  American  Baptist  Mission,  supplies  teachers  to 
39  attached  pathsdlas  in  the  Jungle  Mahals.  A  small  technical  school 
at  Midnapore  town  is  aided  from  District  funds,  and  a  madrasa  at 
Pataspur  is  provided  with  a  hostel  from  Provincial  revenues.  The 
District  also  contains  58  Sanskrit  tols,  of  which  53  have  adopted  the 
standards  prescribed  by  the  Educational  department. 

In  1903  the  District  contained  14  dispensaries,  of  which  7  had 
accommodation  for  123  in-patients.  The  cases  \o(  20,000  out- 
patients and  1,500  in-patients  were  treated  during  the  year,  and  4,700 
operations  were  performed.  The  expenditure  was  Rs.  29,000,  of 
which  Rs.  4,000  was  met  from  Government  contributions,  Rs.  5,000 
from  Local  and  Rs.  12,000  from  municipal  funds,  and  Rs.  7,000  from 
subscriptions. 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  in  municipal  areas.  Elsewhere  it  is 
very  backward,  and  in  1903-4  only  68,770  persons,  or  25-5  per  1,000 
of  the  population,  were  successfully  vaccinated. 

[Sir  W.  W.  Hunter,  Statistical  Account  of  Bengal,  vol.  iii  (1876); 
Reports  of  the  Embankment  Committee  (Calcutta,  1839—40,  reprinted 
in  1901);  J.  Price,  Early  History  of  Midnapore  (Calcutta,  1876); 
Selections  from  the  Records  of  the  Government  of  Bengal  on  the  Settlement 
of  Jaldmuta  and  Mdjnamutd  Estates  in  Midnapore  (Calcutta,  1882); 
Embankment  Committee's  Report  (Calcutta,  1888).] 

Midnapore  Subdivision. — Head-quarters  subdivision  of  Midna- 
pore District,  Bengal,  lying  between  21°  46'  and  22°  5  70  N.  and  86c  33' 
and  870  43'  E.,  with  an  area  of  3,271  square  miles.  The  subdivision 
consists  in  the  north  and  west  of  thinly  wooded  and  rocky  uplands. 
The  climate  is  good,  but  the  laterite  soil  is  dry  and  infertile.  Towards 
the  south  and  east  the  level  dips,  and  a  swampy  hollow  is  formed 
between  the  elevated  country  to  the  west  and  the  comparatively  high 
ground  along  the  coast.  The  population  in  1901  was  1,277,749, 
compared  with  1,223,248  in  1891,  the  density  being  391  persons  per 
square  mile,  which  is  much  less  than  in  any  other  subdivision.  It 
contains  one  town,  Midnapore  (population,  33,140),  its  head-quarters  ; 
and  3,782  villages.  Kharakpur,  8  miles  from  Midnapore  town,  is  an 
important  railway  junction. 

Midnapore  Town  {Medinipitr). — Head-quarters  of  Midnapore 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  22°  25'  X.  and  870  19'  E.,  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Kasui  river.     Population  (1901),  33,140,  of~  whom  Hindus 


34°  MIDNAPORE    TOWN 

numbered  26,094,  Musalmans  6,575,  and  Christians  398.  The  town 
was  formally  declared  the  head-quarters  of  the  District  in  1783,  but 
a  factory  and  fort  had  been  built  here  more  than  twenty  years 
previously.  Midnapore  has  no  great  industry  or  trade,  though  brass- 
ware,  rice,  and  timber  are  exported  on  a  small  scale.  The  town  shows 
little  tendency  to  grow.  It  has  been  recently  connected  with  the 
Bengai-Nagpur  Railway  system  by  a  branch  line  to  Kharakpur. 
Midnapore  was  constituted  a  municipality  in  1865.  The  income 
during  the  decade  ending  190 1-2  averaged  Rs.  60,000,  and  the  ex- 
penditure Rs.  58,000.  In  1903-4  the  total  income  was  Rs.  64,000, 
of  which  Rs.  18,000  was  derived  from  a  tax  on  houses  and  lands, 
Rs.  14,000  from  a  conservancy  rate,  Rs.  12,000  as  fees  from  educational 
institutions,  and  Rs.  6,000  from  a  tax  on  vehicles.  The  incidence  of 
taxation  was  Rs.  1-2-3  Per  head  of  the  population.  In  the  same  year 
the  expenditure  of  Rs.  63,600  included  Rs.  2,000  spent  on  lighting, 
and  the  same  amount  on  drainage,  Rs.  16,000  on  conservancy, 
Rs.  11,000  on  medical  relief,  Rs.  4,000  on  roads,  and  Rs.  20,000  on 
education.  The  town  contains  the  usual  public  buildings,  and  also 
a  church  and  a  Central  jail.  The  jail  has  accommodation  for  1,340 
prisoners,  who  are  employed  on  cloth-weaving,  cane-  and  basket-work, 
mat-making,  carpentry,  and  the  manufacture  of  mustard  oil.  The 
American  Baptist  Mission  maintains  a  training  school  and  printing 
press.  The  educational  institutions  include  an  Arts  college  and 
a  small  technical  school. 

Midnapore  Canal. — A  navigable  and  irrigation  canal  in  the 
Midnapore  District  of  Bengal.  Construction  was  begun  by  the  East 
India  Irrigation  and  Canal  Company  in  1886;  the  works  were  taken 
over  by  Government  two  years  later,  and  irrigation  commenced  in 
1 87 1.  The  canal  originally  formed  part  of  the  Orissa  Canals  scheme, 
but  was  at  an  early  stage  separated  and  treated  as  a  distinct  project. 
The  water-supply  is  derived  from  the  Kasai  river  at  Midnapore,  where 
there  is  a  regulating  weir  with  head-works,  and  the  canal  extends  to 
Ulubaria  on  the  Hooghly,  crossing  the  Rupnarayan  and  Damodar 
rivers. 

The  length  of  the  main  canal  is  72  miles,  and  of  its  distributaries 
267  miles,  and  the  maximum  discharge  is  1,500  cubic  feet  per  second. 
The  whole  length  of  the  main  canal  is  navigable,  and  the  estimated 
value  of  cargo  carried  in  1902  3  was  63-8  lakhs,  the  tolls  collected 
amounting  to  Rs.  70,000.  The  capital  outlay  up  to  March  31,  1904, 
was  84-8  lakhs,  and  the  gross  revenue  for  that  year  amounted  to 
2-2  lakhs,  the  net  revenue  being  Rs.  70,000;  the  total  area  irrigated 
was  146  square  miles.  Before  the  opening  of  the  Bengal-Nagpur 
Railway  the  canal  formed  part  of  the  main  route  between  Calcutta  and 
Midnapore;    the    railway    has    tapped    tin-    canal    traffic    and    caused 


MIL  A  A'  341 

a  falling  off  in  the  receipts  from  navigation,  which  has  been  accom- 
panied, however,  by  a  corresponding  decrease  in  working  expenses. 

Mihrpur. — Subdivision  and  town   in   Nadia   District,  Bengal.     See 
Meherpur. 

Mikir  Hills. — A  tract  of  hilly  country  in  Nowgong  and  Sibsagar 
Districts,  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  lying  between  the  Assam  Range 
and  the  Brahmaputra,  about  26°  30'  N.  and  930  30'  E.,  but  cut  off 
from  the  main  mountain  system  by  the  valleys  of  the  Dhansiri  on  the 
east,  and  of  the  Kapili  and  its  tributaries  on  the  west.  The  northern 
hills  are  composed  of  gneissic  rocks,  which  towards  the  south  are 
overlain  by  sedimentary  strata  of  Tertiary  origin.  These  younger  rocks 
consist  of  soft  yellow  sandstones,  finely  laminated  grey  clay  shales,  and 
nodular  earthy  limestone.  Limestone  is  found  near  the  Nambar, 
Deopani,  Hariajan,  and  Jamuna  rivers,  and  iron  ore  is  of  widespread 
occurrence,  though  the  haematite  is  seldom  sufficiently  concentrated  to 
pay  for  working.  Coal  of  inferior  quality  is  found  near  the  Langlei 
hill  and  the  Nambar  river.  The  hills  have  steep  slopes,  and  both  they 
and  the  intervening  valleys  are  covered  with  dense  jungle.  They 
extend  over  an  area  of  about  2,000  square  miles  and  average  from 
1,000  to  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  though  the  loftiest  summits  attain 
a  height  of  nearly  4,500  feet.  The  Mikirs,  the  tribe  inhabiting  these 
hills,  speak  a  language  which  occupies  an  intermediate  position  between 
Bodo  or  Kachari  and  the  various  forms  of  Naga  speech.  In  character 
and  habits  they  differ  entirely  from  the  savage  hillmen  to  the  south, 
and  are  quieter  and  more  timid  than  any  other  tribe  in  Assam.  Dalton 
states '  that  they  were  originally  driven  from  the  hills  of  North  Caehar 
to  the  Jaintia  Hills,  where  they  are  still  to  be  found  in  considerable 
numbers  ;  but  the  majority  of  the  tribe  were  displeased  with  the 
treatment  they  received,  and  moved  to  the  locality  which  has  since 
borne  their  name.  Similar  migrations  were  undertaken  by  the  Lalungs, 
a  kindred  neighbouring  tribe,  who  according  to  their  traditions  went  to 
the  Jaintia  Hills  to  escape  the  necessity  of  providing  the  Kachari  Raja 
with  a  daily  ration  of  six  seers  of  human  milk,  and  left  because 
they  did  not  like  the  matriarchal  theory  of  inheritance  there  in  force. 
The  Mikirs  are  said  to  have  been  compelled  to  forswear  the  use  of 
arms  by  the  Ahom  government,  and  this  is  offered  as  an  explanation 
of  their  present  peaceful  disposition.  They  live  in  small  hamlets  near 
the  crops  of  rice,  cotton,  and  chillies  which  they  raise  on  the  hill-side. 
Their  houses  are  large  and  strongly  built,  and  are  raised  on  platforms 
above  the  ground.  Rice  is  their  staple  food,  but  they  eat  fowls  and 
pork  and  consume  large  quantities  of  fermented  liquor. 

Milak. —South-eastern    tahsil    in    the    State    of    Rampur,    United 
Provinces,   lying    between    2S0   34'  and   2S0   51'   N.   and    79°   5'  and 

1  Ethnology  of  Bengal,  p.  54. 


342  MILAK 

790  18'  E.,  with  an  area  of  156  square  miles.  Population  (1901),  94,046. 
There  are  201  villages  and  one  town,  Milak  (population,  2,615), 
the  tahsil  head-quarters.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4 
was  Rs.  3,83,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  46,000.  The  density  of  popu- 
lation, 603  persons  per  square  mile,  is  slightly  above  the  State  average. 
The  tahsil  lies  in  the  fertile  central  tract.  In  1903-4  the  area  under 
cultivation  was  115  square  miles,  of  which  24  were  irrigated,  chiefly 
from  canals. 

Milam. — Village  in  the  District  and  tahsil  of  Almora,  United 
Provinces,  situated  in  300  26'  N.  and  8o°  9'  E.  Population  (1900), 
1,733.  Tne  village  is  inhabited  only  in  the  summer,  when  it  is  the 
residence  of  the  Bhotia  traders  with  Tibet.  It  lies  at  an  altitude  of 
11,400  feet,  13  miles  south  of  the  Anta  Dhura  pass,  to  which  access 
is  obtained  by  a  difficult  and  trying  ascent.  Below  the  village,  near 
the  Gorl  stream,  is  a  considerable  stretch  of  alluvial  land,  which  in 
summer  produces  buckwheat  and  barley.  The  surrounding  country 
is  bleak  and  desolate,  but  presents  a  scene  of  peculiar  grandeur.  Lofty 
snow  mountains  shut  in  the  valley,  and  waterfalls  are  numerous  and 
often  of  considerable  beauty.  The  London  Mission  has  a  station 
here,  and  there  is  a  school  with  about  50  pupils. 

Milur. — Subdivision,  taluk,  and  town  in  Madura  District,  Madras. 
See  Melur. 

Minbu  Division. — South-western  Division  of  Upper  Burma,  lying 
entirely  in  the  Irrawaddy  basin,  between  180  52'  and  220  50'  N.  and 
930  59'  and  950  52'  E.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Upper 
and  Lower  Chindwin  Districts  ;  on  the  east  by  the  Lower  Chind- 
win,  Sagaing,  Myingyan,  Yamethin,  and  Toungoo  Districts  ;  on  the 
south  by  Prome  District ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  Arakan  Division 
and  the  Chin  Hills.  It  comprises  four  Districts  :  Thayetmyo  in  the 
south,  lying  astride  the  Irrawaddy,  mainly  in  Lower  Burma;  Minbu 
and  Magwe,  north  of  Thayetmyo,  the  former  between  the  Irrawaddy 
and  the  Arakan  Yoma,  the  latter  between  the  Irrawaddy  and  the  Pegu 
Yoma  ;  and  Pakokku,  extending  from  the  Irrawaddy  and  Chindwin 
to  the  Chin  Hills.  The  Commissioner  of  the  Division  also  exercises 
control  over  the  Pakokku  Chin  Hills,  which  lie  to  the  west  of 
Pakokku.  With  the  exception  of  a  comparatively  narrow  strip  of  hill 
country  in  the  west,  practically  the  whole  of  the  Division  lies  in,  and 
is  typical  of,  what  is  known  as  the  dry  zone  of  Burma.  The  population 
of  the  Division  (excluding  the  Pakokku  Chin  Hills)  was  997,269  in 
iSgr,  and  1,076,280  in  1901.  Its  distribution  in  1901  is  shown  in  the 
table  on  the  next  page. 

The  population  is  distributed  over  7  towns  and  4,714  villages.  The 
head-quarters  are  at  Minuu  (population,  5,780),  in  river  communica- 
tion with  all  the  other  District  head  quarters.     The  other  towns  are 


MINBU  DISTRICT 


*»  A  -> 


Pakokku  (19,456),  Thayetmyo  (15,824),  Allanmyo  in  Thayetmyo 
District  ( 10,207  )>  Salin  in  Minbu  District,  and  Magwe  and  Taung- 
dwingyi  in  Magwe  District.  Pakokku  and  Allanmyo  are  trade  centres, 
and  both  Thayetmyo  and  Salin  are  towns  of  some  antiquity,  but  there 
are  no  important  historic  sites  in  the  Division.  By  far  the  greater 
number  of  the  people  are  Burmans,  who  aggregated  1,009,102  in  1901. 
Chins  (to  the  number  of  43,810)  inhabit  the  Arakan  Voma  and  Chin 
Hills  along  the  western  border,  and,  to  a  small  extent,  parts  of  the 
Pegu  Yoma  also.  In  Pakokku  District  are  a  community  known  as 
the  Taungthas,  numbering  5,701.  Shans  and  Chinamen  are  few  in 
number,  as  are  natives  of  India.  The  Census  of  1901  showed  totals 
of  only  4,768  Hindus  and  4,696  Musalmans. 


District. 

Area  in  square 
miles. 

Population, 
1901. 

Land  revenue 

and  lhatha- 

meda,  1903-4, 

in  thousands 

of  rupees. 

Thayetmyo 
Pakokku  . 
Minbu 
Magwe 

Total 

4,75° 
6,2IO 

3,299 
2.913 

239,706 

356,489 
233,377 
246,70s 

4,57* 

8,53 

6,62 

5>°7 

17.172               1.076,280 

24,79 

*  Includes  capitation  tax  in  Thayetmyo. 

Minbu  District. — A  dry  zone  District  in  the  Minbu  Division  of 
Upper  Burma,  lying  along  the  western  bank  of  the  Irrawaddy,  between 
1 90  50'  and  21°  2'  N.  and  940  2'  and  950  2'  E.,  with  an  area  of  3,299 
square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Pakokku  District ;  on 
the  south  by  Thayetmyo ;  on  the  east  by  the  Irrawaddy,  which 
separates  it  from  Magwe  District ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  Arakan 
Yoma,  which  divides  it  from  Kyaukpyu.  Roughly  speaking,  the  land 
over  the  greater  part  of  the  District  rises  from  east 
to  west  away  from  the  Irrawaddy  valley.     In  the  ex-  asoects 

treme  east  are  sandy  plains  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
which  gradually  become  broken  undulations,  and  then  give  place  first 
to  rocky  jungle-covered  hills  and  finally  to  the  steep  and  even  majestic 
range  that  severs  the  District  from  the  Arakan  coast-lands  and  the 
sea.  This  configuration  is  modified  by  various  small  rivers  which  flow 
into  the  Irrawaddy  and  drain  the  uplands.  Cultivation  is  chiefly 
confined  to  the  strips  of  land  extending  east  and  west  which  these 
rivers  irrigate,  and  to  the  alluvial  tract  running  north  and  south  along 
the  course  of  the  Irrawaddy.  Between  these  irrigated  tracts,  and 
covering  almost  the  whole  of  the  south  of  the  District,  is  dry  gravelly 
country  clothed  with  scrub  jungle,  ending  in  the  extreme  south  in  a 
spur  of  hills  which  breaks  off  at  right  angles  from  the  western  range. 


344  MINBU  DISTRICT 

The  Arakan  Yoma,  which  forms  the  barrier  between  Minbu  and 
Kyaukpyu,  runs  south-east  and  north-west,  and  rises  in  places  to  a 
height  of  over  5,000  feet.  Parallel  to  the  main  range  on  the  east, 
and  between  it  and  the  river,  are  the  Nwamadaung  hills,  a  chain 
running  the  entire  length  of  the  District,  but  far  lower  than  the  Yoma, 
averaging  in  height  only  about  600  feet.  Of  the  rivers  of  Minbu,  the 
Irrawaddy  is  the  most  important.  It  skirts  the  District  for  about 
80  miles,  and  its  width  opposite  Minbu  town  is  nearly  3  miles,  though 
the  expanse  of  waters  is  broken  even  in  the  rains  by  one  or  other  of 
the  numerous  shifting  sandbanks  which  here  make  navigation  difficult 
at  all  seasons.  In  the  course  of  the  year  the  river  level  rises  40  feet, 
the  most  constant  rise  being  from  June  till  the  beginning  of  September, 
and  in  flood-time  the  current  flows  at  a  rate  of  5  or  6  miles  an  hour. 
The  other  rivers  of  the  District — the  Salin,  the  Mon,  and  the  Man — 
are  all  tributaries  of  the  Irrawaddy,  which  find  their  source  in  the  hills 
in  the  west.  The  Salin  rises  in  the  Pakokku  Chin  Hills,  not  far  south 
of  Mount  Victoria,  and  enters  the  District  from  the  north,  flowing  in 
a  southerly  direction  from  Pakokku  District  to  about  35  miles  from 
the  boundary,  when  it  bends  abruptly  and  takes  a  north-easterly  course 
to  meet  the  Irrawaddy  near  Sinbyugyun.  For  the  greater  part  of  its 
course  in  the  District  it  is  a  broad,  slow,  shallow  stream,  with  low 
indefinite  banks  and  a  gravelly  bed.  Above  Salin  in  the  dry  season 
it  holds  but  little  water,  and  below  that  town  it  is  quite  dry.  The 
alluvial  plain  skirting  it  is  well  watered  by  an  extensive  system  of 
canals.  The  Mon  rises  in  the  mountains  west  and  north  of  Mount 
Victoria,  and  enters  the  District  at  its  north-west  corner.  It  runs  first 
in  a  south-easterly  direction  along  a  narrow  valley  between  the  Arakan 
Yoma  and  the  Xwamadaung.  Below  Sidoktaya  it  pierces  the  latter 
range  and  emerges  on  the  plain,  flowing  eastwards  across  it  for  about 
34  miles  in  a  wide  channel  before  entering  the  Irrawaddy.  Its  waters 
are  perennial,  and  the  rich  valley  it  is  capable  of  irrigating  will  in  the 
near  future  be  a  very  valuable  rice  tract.  The  Man  rises  in  the  Arakan 
Yoma  in  the  south-west  corner  of  the  District,  and  flows  in  a  north- 
easterly direction  through  a  break  in  the  Nwamadaung  hills  into  the 
Irrawaddy,  which  it  enters  at  Minbu.  Like  the  Salin  its  waters 
are  diverted  into  irrigation  canals,  but  the  stream  is  of  little  size  in 
the  dry  season. 

Two  lakes  are  worth)  of  mention  ;  one  at  Paunglin,  and  one  known 
as  the  YVetthigan  lake.  The  former  is  situated  near  the  Irrawaddy, 
10  miles  south-east  of  Salin  town,  and  is  really  a  lagoon  fed  by  the 
overflow  of  the  Irrawaddy.  In  the  hot  season  the  bed  is  practically 
dry,  and  is  sown  with  rice.  When  the  Irrawaddy  rises  the  water 
rushes  in  through  two  creeks  which  are  dammed  up  as  soon  as  the 
river  begins  to  subside,  and  until  the  dry  season  comes  round  again 


PHYSIC  A/.    ASPECTS  345 

the  sheet  of  water  thus  formed  is  worked  as  a  fishery  by  the  neighbour- 
ing villages.  It  provides  good  duck-shooting  in  the  cold  season.  The 
Wetthigan  lake,  which  is  not  fished,  as  it  was  held  sacred  under 
Burmese  rule,  is  formed  by  rain-water  and  the  outflow  from  the  Salin 
canals.  It  has  an  area  of  366  acres,  and  lies  half  a  mile  to  the  west  of 
Salin  town. 

North  of  Minbu  town  the  country  is  overlaid  with  the  alluvium 
of  the  Mon  and  Inawaddy  rivers.  South  and  west  of  the  town  the 
ground  is  undulating,  and  is  occupied  mainly  by  soft  sandstones  of 
Upper  Tertiary  (pliocene)  age,  containing  fossil  wood  and  fragments 
of  mammalian  bones.  A  small  area  of  miocene  rocks  is  brought  up 
near  Minbu  by  an  anticlinal  fold  consisting  of  blue  and  olive  clays 
with  soft  sandstones,  belonging  to  the  upper  or  Yenangyaung  stage 
of  the  Pegu  series.  Traces  of  oil  are  found  along  the  crest  of  this 
anticlinal,  and  on  it,  near  Minbu,  a  number  of  mud  volcanoes  are 
situated  \  The  miocene  beds  are  also  exposed  in  the  western  part 
of  the  District,  extending  along  the  foot  of  the  Arakan  Yoma,  followed 
in  the  hills  by  Nummulitic  shales  and  limestones  (upper  eocene). 
West  of  these  again  is  a  band  of  purple  schists,  and  green  and  purple 
shales  (Chin  shales),  traversed  by  numerous  dikes  of  dolerite  and  dark- 
green  serpentine.  Steatite  occurs  in  association  with  the  serpentine, 
and  is  quarried  near  Pa-aing  and  Sinlan,  west  of  the  Nwamadaung. 

The  vegetation  follows  the  three  natural  divisions  adverted  to  in  an 
earlier  paragraph,  and  may  be  divided  into  the  flora  of  the  alluvial 
and  irrigated  tracts,  that  of  the  dry  uplands,  and  that  of  the  submontane 
and  Yoma  zones.  In  the  alluvial  belt  we  find  a  stretch  of  savannah, 
the  chief  constituent  grasses  being  Imperata  arundinacea  and  I.  exal- 
tata  ;  trees  are  sparse  here,  the  more  common  ones  being  Bombax 
malabaricum,  Bit  tea  fro/tdosa,  and  Parkinsonia  aculeata.  Moist  hollows 
are  frequent  ;  as  a  rule  they  are  surrounded  by  a  copse  of  shrubs  and 
trees,  generally  Xanthophyllum  glaucum,  and  filled  up  with  Polygonum 
stagnium  or  Combretum  trifoliatum.  Round  villages  toddy-palms 
(palmyras)  and  coco-nut  palms  are  common,  and  banyans,  p/pals, 
mangoes,  or  jack-fruit  trees  are  usually  to  be  found.  The  banks  of 
the  Irrawaddy  are  covered  with  a  great  variety  of  herbaceous  plants. 
The  irrigated  areas  present  much  the  same  features  as  the  alluvial, 
though  the  coarse  grasses  of  the  latter  are  to  a  considerable  extent 
here  replaced  by  Desmodium  triflorum,  Tephrosia  purpurea,  and  similar 
plants,  while  Calotropis  is  quite  common.  The  dry  upland  vegetation 
is  peculiarly  characteristic  of  the  District.  It  forms  a  rolling  wilderness 
of  prickly  scrub,  the  principal  shrubs  in  which  are  the  so-called  wild 
plum  (Zizyphus  Jujuba),  Randia  dumetorum,  special  species  of  Capparis, 
and  the  cactus-like  Euphorbia  antiquorum.  True  cactus  is  also  found 
1  F,  Noetlin<j,  Memoirs.  Geological  Survey  of  India,  vol,  xxvii,  pt.  ii.  p   35. 


346  MINBU  DISTRICT 

near  villages.  Trees  are  scarce,  the  only  common  kinds  being  Albizzia 
Lebbek  and  Acacia  leucophlaea,  the  latter  providing  welcome  oases  of 
bright  verdure  in  the  burnt-up  scenery  of  the  hot  season.  In  the 
mountain  tracts,  the  Nwamadaung  hills  are  clad  with  deciduous  forest, 
and  present  a  very  bare  appearance  in  the  hot  season  owing  to  the 
almost  total  absence  of  herbaceous  undergrowth.  The  lower  slopes 
of  the  Yoma  proper  are  clothed  with  deciduous  forests  of  much  the 
same  kind,  while  its  upper  crests  are  covered  with  evergreen  forest. 

From  the  sportman's  point  of  view  the  District  is  as  well  provided 
with  wild  animals  as  any  in  Burma.  Tigers  are  common  in  places, 
elephants,  bison,  the  trine  or  hsaing  (Bos  so/idaicus),  and  the  Tibetan 
bear  are  plentiful,  and  leopards  are  dangerously  numerous.  The 
Malayan  bear  and  the  rhinoceros  are  also  found.  Of  the  deer  tribe,  the 
sambar  (Cervus  unicolor),  the  thiamin  (Cervus  e/di),  and  the  hog  deer 
abound  in  places,  while  the  barking-deer  is  a  pest  to  cultivators. 
Wild  hog  are  not  uncommon,  and  three  kinds  of  wild  dogs  are  to  be 
found :  namely,  the  ordinary  grey  wild  dog,  the  jackal,  and  a  wolf. 
Porcupines  and  otters  occur,  but  very  rarely.  Among  game-birds  the 
silver  pheasant,  Hume's  pheasant,  the  bamboo  partridge,  and  the 
Chinese  francolin  deserve  special  mention  ;  while  peafowl,  jungle-fowl, 
rain  quail,  button  quail,  snipe,  teal,  and  most  varieties  of  duck  all  find 
a  habitat  in  the  District. 

The  climate  of  Minbu  varies.  In  the  hilly  portion  west  of  the 
Nwamadaung  it  is,  except  during  the  first  four  months  of  the  year, 
deadly  for  Europeans,  and  even  for  Burmans,  save  those  who  actually 
live  in  the  hills,  whereas  in  the  east  the  conditions  are  much  the  same 
as  in  other  Districts  in  the  dry  zone  of  Upper  Burma.  The  cold 
season  lasts  from  November  till  February,  the  hot  season  from  March 
till  May,  and  the  rains  from  June  till  November.  The  cold  season  is 
delightful,  but  April  and  May  are  oppressively  sultry,  and  Minbu  has 
the  reputation  of  being  one  of  the  hottest  Districts  in  Burma  during 
those  two  months.  The  following  maxima  and  minima  were  recorded 
in  1901  :  December,  890  and  6o°;  May,  1070  and  870 ;  July,  950  and 
770.  In  April  and  May  the  thermometer  rises  not  infrequently  to  1090. 
The  nights,  however,  are  nearly  always  cool,  even  in  the  most  sultry 
weather. 

The  annual  rainfall  for  the  live  years  ending  1 900-1  averaged 
26-6  inches.  It  should  be  noted,  however,  that  the  rainfall  in  the 
hills  in  the  west  is  often  nearly  double  that  in  the  eastern  portion 
of  the  District.  In  the  east,  which  is  a  typical  dry  zone  area,  steady 
downpours  lasting  for  days  are  unknown.  When  it  comes,  the  rain 
descends  in  showers  which  seldom  last  more  than  four  or  five  hours. 
There  are  floods  of  some  extent  every  year,  and  the  rise  of  the  river 
corresponds  roughly  with  the  rainfall.     It  is  estimated  that  an  ordinary 


HISTORY  347 

high  flood  occurs  every  three  years,  and  an  unusually  high  flood  one 
year  in  five. 

The  early  history  of  Minbu  is  pure  legend,  being  concerned  largely 
with  the  doings  of  Alaungsithu,  king  of  Pagan,  who  is  credited  with 
having  improved  the  early  irrigation  systems  of  the 
District  in  the  twelfth  century.  Under  Burmese  rule 
the  charge  of  what  is  now  Minbu  District  was  entrusted  to  three  tvuns 
living  at  Salin,  Sagu,  and  Ngape,  while  Minbu  itself  was  administered 
by  an  official  called  a  penin  ('  coxswain  of  a  royal  boat ').  Each  ivun 
had  under  him  a  sifke  (technically  military  officer),  a  na/ikan,  and 
a  sayegyi  or  head  clerk,  while  all  important  villages  were  under 
a  myothugyi.  Of  the  towns,  Salin  was  then  the  largest,  containing  in 
1826  some  10,000  inhabitants.  Minbu  was  first  occupied  by  the 
British  in  March,  1886,  and  became  the  head-quarters  of  a  military 
command  in  July.  In  the  succeeding  year  the  troops  were  gradually 
withdrawn,  and  Myingyan  became  the  military  head-quarters.  The 
chief  feature  in  the  annexation  of  the  District  was  the  stubborn 
resistance  offered  by  two  dacoit  leaders,  Xga  Sue  and  Oktama, 
the  former  operating  chiefly  south  of  the  Man  river,  the  latter  north 
of  the  Man  as  far  as  Salin.  Nga  Swe,  who,  as  a  border  thugyi,  had 
frequently  harried  British  territory,  collected  a  large  following  and 
captured  Ngape,  a  police  outpost,  in  May,  1886.  After  an  unsuccessful 
attempt  to  capture  him,  in  which  Mr.  Phayre,  the  Deputy-Commissioner, 
lost  his  life,  he  was  driven  out ;  but  he  then  laid  siege  to  the  village 
of  Thabyebin,  which  was  only  relieved  after  the  British  garrison  had 
been  reduced  to  sore  straits.  The  occupation  of  various  outposts  in 
his  country  and  vigorous  pursuit  by  mounted  infantry  drove  this 
notorious  outlaw  eventually  to  Thayetmyo  District,  where  he  was 
killed.  Oktama  was  a  pongyi  who  collected  a  band  of  insurgents, 
and  attacked  and  burnt  Sagu  in  April,  18S6.  He  was  driven  out, 
but  reappeared  in  June  of  the  same  year  with  3,000  men  and  laid 
siege  to  Salin.  The  gang  dispersed  after  this,  but  later  gave  much 
trouble  round  Pyilongyaw ;  and  it  was  not  till  June,  1889,  that  Oktama 
was  betrayed  into  British  hands  and  hanged  after  due  trial. 

The  only  archaeological  remains  of  interest  are  a  few  pagodas. 
Salin  is  a  town  of  some  antiquity,  having  been  founded,  according  to 
tradition,  about  a.d.  1200,  by  Narapadisithu,  king  of  Pagan;  and  the 
remains  of  the  old  city  wall  present  a  fine  specimen  of  ancient  Burmese 
fortification.  Of  pagodas,  the  most  important  is  the  Shwezettaw 
('the  golden  foot')  in  the  Sagu  township,  not  far  from  Minbu  town.  It 
is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  the  fact  that  when  Buddha  came  to 
Burma  he  went  to  the  site  of  the  Shwezettaw  pagoda  and  there  left  his 
footprints,  one  by  the  bank  of  the  Mon  stream,  and  one  on  the  top 
of  the  hill  which  rises  sheer  on  the  opposite  bank.     Thither  every  year 

vol.  xvii.  z 


348 


MINBU  DISTRICT 


at  the  time  of  the  pagoda  festival,  which  lasts  from  the  middle  of 
February  to  the  middle  of  March,  come  streams  of  gaily-dressed 
pilgrims  from  every  part  of  Burma.  The  pagoda  at  Kyaungdawya  in 
the  Legaing  township  is  reverenced  as  marking  the  place  where 
Buddha  rested  during  the  same  visit.  Other  important  pagodas  are 
the  Koktheinnayon  near  Salin,  and  the  Myatsepo  and  Shwebannyin, 
both  in  the  Legaing  township.  Towards  the  upkeep  of  three  pagodas 
and  two  natsins  ('  spirit  shrines ')  the  Archaeological  department  makes 
an  annual  grant. 

The   population  was  215,959   in    1891    and   233,377   in    1901.     Its 
distribution  in  the  latter  year  is  shown  in  the  follow- 


Population. 


ing  table 


V 

s 

Number  of 

c 
0 

on  per 
mile. 

0  =  j=  ~    . 
v'~  _  a*  — 
ac  gee  0 

er  of 
able  to 
and 

te. 

Township. 

Area  in 

inil( 

V) 

0 

H 

1 

be 
> 

Popula 

u  v 

Percent 
variat: 

populat 
tween 
and  1 

NumL 

persons 

read 

wri 

Sagu       . 

542 

'97 

57,699 

106 

+   32 

1 8,444 

Legaing 

533 

146 

36,397 

68 

+      I 

8,874 

Ngape  . 

362 

M4 

1 6,033 

44 

+    22 

3,867 

Salin 

741 

I 

464 

IOO,737 

136 

+       2 

'  27,850 

Sidoktaya 
District  total 

1,121 

2 

20S 

22,511 

20 

4,686  1 

3,299 

M59 

233,377 

71 

+       8 

63,721 

The  only  towns  are  the  municipalities  of  Minbu  and  Salin.  There 
has  been  a  distinct  increase  of  population  in  all  the  townships  except 
Legaing,  which  will  probably  develop  rapidly  when  the  new  canals  are 
completed,  and  the  sparsely  populated  and  hilly  township  of  Sidoktaya 
the   west.      The    growth    in    the    Salin    township   as   a   whole    is 


in 


accompanied  by  a  diminution  in  Salin  town,  the  precise  cause  of  which 
is  doubtful.  There  has  been  considerable  immigration  of  recent  years 
from  Magwe  and  Myingyan  Districts.  Along  the  Irrawaddy  valley 
villages  are  numerous  and  the  density  of  population  is  high,  but  the 
forest-clad  areas  on  the  slopes  of  the  Yoma  are  very  thinly  populated. 
There  are  no  Christian  missions  and  only  10 1  native  Christians.  The 
Chins  are  nearly  all  ^^/-worshippers ;  otherwise  Buddhism  reigns 
supreme.     Burmese  is  the  vernacular  of  93  per  cent,  of  the  people. 

The  majority  of  the  population  is  Burman  everywhere,  except  in  the 
western  townships,  where  it  is  composed  largely  of  Chins  of  the 
Chinbok  tribe  ;  and  tradition  has  it  that  Salin  was  originally  a  Chin 
colony.  The  Chins  in  all  numbered  15,600  in  1901,  forming  one-fifth 
of  the  population  of  the  Ngape  township,  and  half  that  of  Sidoktaya. 
The  people  of  Sagu  and  parts  of  the  Salin  township  are  said  to  be 
of  Shan   descent,  and   the  weaving  village  of  Xwetame,  a  suburb  of 


AGRICULTURE  349 

Sinbyugyun,  is  reckoned  a  Shan  colony  ;  but  the  Census  returned  only 
1,000  Shans.  In  connexion  with  the  population,  mention  should  be 
made  of  the  large  landed  proprietors  of  Salin  known  as  thugaungs,  rich 
families  who  have  gradually  come  to  form  a  separate  class,  inter- 
marrying among  themselves,  and  living  in  almost  patriarchal  fashion. 
Their  houses  are  as  a  rule  surrounded  by  spacious  compounds,  in 
which  are  lodged  their  tenants  and  retainers,  and  at  least  one  com- 
pound contains  a  school  for  the  children  of  the  thugaung's  followers. 
The  thugaungs,  it  may  be  noted,  freely  recognize  their  Chin  origin. 
Natives  of  India  numbered  1,850  in  1901,  the  total  being  equally 
divided  into  Hindus  and  Musalmans.  About  one-third  of  them  live 
in  the  two  municipalities.  About  66  per  cent,  of  the  entire  population 
are  directly  dependent  on  agriculture  for  a  livelihood.  Of  this  total, 
more  than  a  third  are  dependent  on  taungya  cultivation  alone. 

The  District  is  an  essentially  agricultural  one  ;  but  the  light  rainfall, 
the  vicissitudes  of  the  seasons,  and  the  easy-going  disposition  of  the 
people    make    their   agricultural    income    sadly   pre-  . 

carious.  Especially  is  this  the  case  with  those  who, 
living  at  a  distance  from  rivers  or  canals,  cultivate  upland  crops,  such 
as  sesamum  and  Jozuar,  which  are  particularly  dependent  on  a  proper 
distribution  of  moisture.  Of  the  capabilities  of  the  soil  on  the  whole 
the  cultivator  has  no  reason  to  complain,  for,  apart  from  irrigated  and 
alluvial  land,  he  can  grow  mogaung  rice  in  the  hollows  of  the  undulating 
uplands  (indaing),  and  the  crop  only  requires  proper  rain  to  be  profit- 
able. But  agricultural  practice  is  slovenly  :  no  care  is  taken  in  the 
selection  of  seed  at  harvest ;  a  large  amount  of  land  is  tilled  badly 
instead  of  a  small  amount  well,  and  no  trouble  is  taken  to  manure 
the  fields. 

Rice  is  usually  transplanted,  but  it  is  also  occasionally  sown  broad- 
cast on  lands  flooded  late  by  the  Irrawaddy.  Ploughing  is  done  with 
the  /////  or  harrow ;  sometimes  in  river-flooded  land  even  this  process  is 
dispensed  with,  and  the  soil  is  merely  stirred  up  by  driving  cattle  to 
and  fro  over  it.  On  alluvial  land  the  te  or  plough  is  used,  a  rude  but 
effective  instrument ;  and  clods  are  crushed  on  rice  and  alluvial  land 
by  an  implement  called  the  kyanbanng. 

The  area  under  cultivation  varies  very  considerably  from  year  to 
year,  owing  to  the  irregularity  of  the  rainfall.  The  table  on  the  next 
page  exhibits  the  main  agricultural  statistics  for  1903-4,  in  square 
miles. 

The  area  under  rice  is  comparatively  large  for  a  District  in  the  dry 
zone.  It  is  the  staple  crop,  occupying  more  than  120  square  miles  in 
1903-4,  and  is  both  lowland  (/e)  and  hill  {taungya).  Next  in  importance 
is  sesamum,  covering  116  square  miles.  About  49  square  miles  are 
under  pulses  of  various  kinds ;  but  maize  and  jowar  are  grown  to  a  very 

z  2 


35° 


MINBU   DISTRICT 


much  smaller  extent  than  in  the  other  dry  zone  Districts,  occupying 
together  only  about  70  square  miles.  Gram,  hardly  grown  at  all  in 
the  adjoining  District  of  Magwe,  here  covers  18  square  miles,  and  is 
increasing  in  popularity.  The  tobacco  crop  in  1903-4  (3,000  acres) 
was  small  compared  with  that  of  the  previous  year.  About  700  acres 
are  under  cotton.  The  area  devoted  to  garden  cultivation  (2,000  acres) 
is  small,  but  is  larger  than  in  many  other  dry  zone  Districts.  Betel- 
vines  and  plantains  are  cultivated  in  the  Legaing  township,  and  man- 
goes, coco-nuts,  and  the  like  in  the  Salin  township.  The  betel  vineyards 
at  Pwinbyu  on  the  Mon  river  are  deserving  of  special  mention. 


Township. 

Total  area. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated. 

Forests. 

SagU 

Legaing    . 
Ngape       . 
Salin 
Sidoktaya 

Total 

54^ 

533 

362 

"41 

1,121 

105 
70 

9 
186 

15 

24 

5 
46 

5 

Y  1,561 

I 

3,299                  385 

94 

1,561 

Cultivation  is  on  the  increase,  especially  in  the  uplands  ;  and  when 
the  Mon  canal  system  is  completed,  there  should  be  a  large  increase 
in  irrigated  land  also.  The  introduction  of  new  varieties  of  seed  is 
a  difficult  task.  An  improved  kind  of  plantain  has,  however,  been 
brought  from  Mandalay,  and  a  dry  variety  of  pea  from  the  United 
Provinces,  while  attempts  are  being  made  to  get  tobacco-growers  to 
experiment  with  Havana  seed.  After  bad  years  cultivators  are  much 
helped  by  the  system  of  agricultural  loans.  The  average  amount 
allowed  for  the  District  is  Rs.  13,800  per  annum,  every  rupee  of  which, 
in  hard  times,  is  applied  for,  and  very  little  has  ever  to  be  written  off 
subsequently  as  irrecoverable. 

Cattle-breeding  is  carried  on,  but  scientific  breeding  requires  a  care 
and  attention  which  the  people  are  but  little  disposed  to  give  to  it. 
Cows  are  extensively  kept,  but  almost  solely  for  breeding  purposes  ; 
a  cow  that  produces  a  good  heifer  at  once  rises  in  value.  Trotting 
bullocks  are  also  in  considerable  demand.  Ponies,  too,  are  bred  ;  but 
colts  and  foals  are  ridden  far  too  young,  and  though  good  colts  are 
doubtless  kept  for  breeding  purposes,  no  care  at  all  is  taken  over  the 
selection  of  mares.  Something  is  at  present  being  done  to  encourage 
sound  breeding  by  the  institution  of  an  annual  agricultural  show  at 
Sagu.  Buffaloes  are  found  chiefly  in  the  villages  along  the  Irrawaddy. 
They  are  not  used  in  the  upland  tracts,  and  only  occasionally  on 
irrigated  land.  The  average  price  for  a  pair  of  buffaloes  is  between 
Rs.  120  and  Rs.  150. 

Ample  provision  for  grazing  grounds  was  made  at  the  time  when  the 
District  was  settled,  but  the  system  has  not  been  found  very  successful 


FOUESTS  351 

in  practice.  Allotments  of  land  for  grazing  purposes  have  frequently 
to  be  revoked,  because  the  land  is  required  for  cultivation,  and  very 
often  what  is  allotted  is  too  far  from  the  village  to  be  of  much  use. 
In  the  irrigated  tracts  no  grazing  grounds  have  been  reserved  at  all, 
and  cultivators  here  send  their  cattle  to  upland  villages  when  turning 
them  out  to  grass. 

The  total  area  of  irrigated  land  in  1903-4  was  94  square  miles, 
dependent  almost  entirely  on  the  Man  and  Salin  Government  irrigation 
systems.  Of  this  total,  more  than  90  square  miles  were  under  rice. 
The  Man  system  begins  at  Sedaw,  a  village  situated  on  the  Man  river 
where  it  leaves  the  hills,  about  20  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  serves 
more  than  40  square  miles  on  its  northern  bank.  The  Salin  system 
begins  at  Theywa,  a  village  on  the  Salin  river  29  miles  from  the 
Irrawaddy,  and  irrigates  more  than  50  square  miles  on  both  sides  of 
the  Salin.  It  comprises  eighteen  canals,  the  most  important  of  which 
is  the  Myaungmadaw,  which,  leaving  the  Salin  river  at  Linzin  12  miles 
above  Salin  town,  passes  through  the  town,  and  ultimately  reaches  the 
Paunglin  lake.  A  very  important  scheme  for  utilizing  the  Mon  river 
for  irrigation  purposes  has  recently  been  sanctioned.  A  weir  is  under 
construction  in  the  Mon  at  Mezali,  34  miles  from  its  mouth.  By 
taking  out  a  canal  on  each  side,  the  work  has  been  designed  to  irrigate 
both  the  northern  and  southern  slopes  of  the  valley  down  to  the 
Irrawaddy,  and  thus  to  serve  a  total  area  of  120  square  miles  of  very 
rich  rice-growing  soil.  The  cost  of  this  scheme  is  estimated  at 
$3^  lakhs.  A  certain  amount  of  land  is  irrigated  by  small  private 
canals  and  tanks.  In  1903-4  about  17  square  miles  were  watered 
by  the  former  method.  The  Paunglin  lake  supplies  about  1,600  acres 
of  mayin  rice. 

The  revenue  obtained  from  leased  fisheries  amounted  in  1903-4  to 
Rs.  24,800.  Paunglin  lake,  the  most  important  of  these  areas,  is  split 
up  into  five  different  sections ;  four  are  leased  as  fisheries,  and  in  the 
other  individual  licences  for  catching  fish  are  issued.  Another  fishery 
worthy  of  mention  is  the  Kekkaya  tank,  just  outside  Legaing  village. 

The  total  area  of  'reserved'  forest  is  378  square  miles,  comprising 
12  different  tracts  of  hilly  country,  the  most  important  of  which  are  the 
Mon  West  Reserve  (covering  93  square  miles)  and 
the  Nwamadaung  (covering  36  square  miles).  The 
former  extends  over  elevated  and  precipitous  uplands  in  the  Arakan 
Yoma ;  the  Nwamadaung  lies  farther  to  the  east,  also  on  high  ground. 
An  extension  of  the  '  reserved '  areas  will  soon  be  imperatively  needed, 
for  the  forest  tribes  (practically  all  Chins)  who  live  by  taung\a-z\\\Xvs\g 
have  carried  that  practice  to  such  a  stage  as  to  threaten  seriously  the 
existence  of  valuable  and  climatically  essential  timber-grounds.  The 
area  of  '  unclassed '  forest  is  about  1,183  square  miles,  much  of  which  is 


35  2  MINBU  DISTRICT 

merely  scrub.  A  tract  with  a  more  valuable  growth,  containing  teak 
and  cutch,  is  drained  by  the  Sin  stream,  and  it  has  recently  been 
proposed  to  reserve  30  square  miles  of  this.  Good  timber  occurs  on 
the  Podein  branch  of  the  Man  and  its  tributaries,  while  in  the  higher 
parts  of  the  '  unclassed '  forest  in  the  south-west  of  the  District  Fiats 
elastica  yields  india-rubber  in  paying  quantities. 

The  chief  trees  of  economic  value  in  the  '  reserved '  forests  are :  sha 
{Acacia  Catechu),  yielding  some  of  the  best  cutch  obtainable  in  Burma  ; 
kyun  or  teak  {Tectona  grandis),  found  in  all  the  Reserves,  though  not 
in  great  quantities ;  padauk  {Pterocarpus  indicus),  the  wood  of  which  is 
in  great  request  as  material  for  cart-wheels  :  and  bamboo,  usually  the 
myinwa  {Dendrocalamus  slrictus).  The  wood  of  a  large  number  of 
trees  is  used  for  house-building,  most  important  among  which  are 
ingyin  {Pentacme  sia/neusis),  thitya  {Shorea  obtusa),  in  {Dipterocarpus 
tuberculatus\  and  kusan  (Hymenodictyon  thyrsifiorum).  Charcoal  is 
burnt  in  certain  localities  from  the  dahat  { Tectona  Hamiltoniand)  and 
than  {Terminalia  O/iveri),  and  wood  varnish  is  extracted  from  the 
thitsl-tree  {Melanorrhoea  usitata)  and  used  for  lacquer.  Thitchabo, 
the  bark  of  Cinnamomum  zeylanicum,  is  used  medicinally  for  bruises 
and  the  like,  and  also  chewed  with  betel.  The  fibre  of  the  shaw-tree 
(Stercuiia)  and  gangaw  (Mesua  ferrea)  are  obtained  high  up  in  the 
evergreen  forest.  Plantations  of  Acacia  Catechu  have  been  made  with 
a  view  to  increasing  the  yield  of  cutch,  and  more  than  800  acres  have 
been  successfully  planted.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  pine 
{Pinus  Khasya)  is  found  on  exposed  ridges  in  the  Mon  West  and 
Palaung  Reserves,  but  that  it  is  not  worked  either  for  its  timber  or 
its  rich  supplies  of  resin.  Fire  protection  is  at  present  attempted  in 
the  Mon  West,  the  Tichaungywa,  and  the  Pasu  Reserves,  and  the 
protected  area  is  being  extended.  The  gross  forest  receipts  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  about  Rs.  43,000. 

The  District  contains  no  mines  of  importance.  There  are  two  steatite 
quarries,  one  of  inferior  quality  near  Ngape,  the  other  near  Pa-aing ;  the 
amount  extracted  in  1903  was  15  tons,  valued  at  about  Rs.  6,000. 
The  steatite  is  dug  out  in  blocks,  brought  to  Pa-aing  on  pack-bullocks, 
and  taken  from  there  in  carts  to  Sinbyugyun,  where  the  blocks  are 
sawn  into  slabs,  which,  in  their  turn,  are  converted  into  pencils  used 
for  writing  on  the  black  paper  memorandum  books  known  as  parabaiks. 
The  borings  are  from  90  to  100  feet  deep.  Laterite,  clay,  gravel,  and 
sandstone  are  all  worked  to  some  extent.  A  thirty  years'  lease  for 
the  working  of  oil-wells  in  the  Sagu  and  Minbu  circles  was  granted  to 
the  Burma  Oil  Company  in  1896,  but  the  undertaking  had  eventually 
to  be  abandoned.  There  are  a  few  salt-wells  in  Sidoktaya  and  Ngape, 
but  the  out-turn  is  insignificant.  Talc,  mica,  and  coal  are  all  found 
in  the  District,  but  arc  not  at  present  worked. 


TRADE  AND  COMMUNICATIONS 


JO  J 


Minbu  being  preeminently  an  agricultural  District,  it  is  not  surprising 

to   find  that  arts  and  manufactures  are  few.     One  small   oil  refinery 

employing  about  half  a  dozen   men  at  Taukshabin 

.„  ,  ,  r         ■  i     •  Trade  and 

village,  and  a  few  aerated  water  factories  employing  communicatjonSt 

about  three   men    each,  are    the    only   approach   to 

special  industries  the  District  can  boast  of.     A  little  weaving  is  carried 

on  in  the  town  and  villages  for  domestic  consumption  ;    there  are  a 

certain  number  of  mat-weavers  and  potters,  and  a  little  cutch  is  boiled 

at  Sidoktaya.     At  Thayetkyin,  a  small  village  near  Salin,  the  people 

manufacture  the  rough  black  paper  of  which  parabaiks  are  made ;  but 

even  this  industry  is  being  driven  out  by  the  introduction  of  European 

paper.     The  arts   are    even    worse    represented.     Sinbyugyun,    where 

lacquer  betel-boxes,  brass  bowls,  and  a  little  wood-carving  are  turned 

out,  is  the  only  place  worthy  of  mention  in  this  regard. 

The  few  large  traders  in  the  District  are  mostly  either  Chinamen  or 

natives  of  India.     Minbu  town  in  the  south  and  Sinbyugyun  in  the 

north  are  the  two  main  commercial  centres.     The  chief  exports  are 

cutch,  hides,  sesamum  seed  and  oil,  gram,  beans,  and  other  kinds  of 

agricultural   produce;    and  the  main    imports   are  piece-goods,   yarn, 

salted  fish,  ngapi,  and,  in  years  of  scarcity,  rice.     The  two  principal 

routes  for  external  trade  are  the  Irrawaddy  on  the  east  and  the  An 

pass,  which  is  reached  by  a  track  through  Ngape,  on  the  west.     The 

latter  is  freely  used  by  the  pack-bullocks  that  ply  between  Kyaukpyu 

and  the  western  portion  of  Minbu. 

Internal  traffic  is  mostly  by  road,  and  no  railways  have  been 
constructed.  A  stretch  of  good  metalled  roadway,  9  miles  long, 
connects  Salin  with  the  Irrawaddy,  and  a  few  short  lengths  of  2  or 
3  miles  each  run  out  from  Minbu  town  ;  but  not  a  single  highway 
has  been  metalled  for  any  considerable  length.  The  chief  land 
communications  are  the  chain  of  roads  running  from  south  to  north 
from  Thayetmyo  to  the  Pakokku  border,  passing  through  Minbu, 
Sagu,  Legaing,  and  Salin,  by  way  of  Sinbyugyun  and  Zibyubin ;  the 
road  from  Minbu  to  Ngape,  by  way  of  Singaung :  and  the  road  from 
Salin  to  Sun.  A  track  from  Salin  to  Sidoktaya  is  in  course  of  con- 
struction. These  are  maintained  by  the  Public  Works  department, 
but  about  n 8  miles  of  road  are  kept  up  from  the  District  fund,  less 
than  4  miles  being  metalled.  Merchandise  is  conveyed  chiefly  in 
bullock-carts,  but  where  the  roads  fail  in  the  west  of  the  District  pack- 
bullocks  are  used. 

The  chief  waterways  for  internal  traffic  are  the  rivers  Mon  and  Man. 
The  Mon  is  navigable  in  the  rains  by  2-ton  dug-outs  up  to  the  point 
where  it  enters  the  District.  The  Man  is  not  navigable  during  the 
dry  season  at  all,  but  in  the  rains  boats  can  go  as  high  as  Aingma. 
The   main    waterway    is,    however,    the    Irrawaddy.     Steamers   ot   the 


354  MINBU  DISTRICT 

Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company  ply  four  tunes  a  week,  carrying  mails  and 

passengers,  twice  up  from  Rangoon  and  twice  down  from  Mandalay. 

The  same  company  also  runs  a   small  steamer  between  Minbu  and 

Thayetmyo,  and  a  large  number  of  cargo-boats.     A  steam  ferry  plies 

across  the  Irrawaddy  between  Minbu  and  Magwe,  and  there  are  other 

local  ferries. 

Famine,  in   the  worst  sense  of  the   word,  is  unknown  in  Minbu, 

though  years  of  scarcity  are  not  uncommon.     Accidents  to  irrigation 

„      .  works,  deficiency  of  rain,  and   cattle-disease   cause 

Famine.  ,.  ,  ■     ,        ,    , 

distress ;    but   agricultural   loans    relieve  the  strain, 

and  emigration  to  Lower  Burma  acts  as  a  safety-valve.     In  1891-2 

famine  was  declared,  and  relief  works  were  started ;  but  with  rain  in 

the  latter  part  of  the  year  and  a  flow  of  imported  rice   from  Lower 

Burma  the  distress  quickly  subsided,  and  later,  when  a  new  relief  work 

was  opened,  not  a  person  volunteered  for  labour  on  it.     A  District 

in  which  so  many  kinds  of  '  dry  crops '  are  grown  is  always  to  some 

extent  armed  against  drought;   and  it  is  estimated  that,  even  in  the 

event  of  a  serious  famine,  the  maximum  number  of  persons  who  would 

require  daily  relief  would  not  exceed  15,000. 

For   purposes   of  administration    the    District   is  divided  into   two 

subdivisions :    Minbu,  comprising  the   townships  of  Sagu,  Legaing, 

,  ,    .  .       ±.        and  Ngape  :  and  Salin,  comprising  those  of  Salin 
Administration.         ,  „  ....  ,      .     ,      .    °  .   , 

and  Sidoktaya.     Minbu  is  the  head-quarters  of  the 

Commissioner  of  the   Division1.     The  Public  Works  department  is 

represented   by  two  Executive   Engineers,  one  in  charge  of  the  Mon 

canals  and  another  in  charge  of  the  Salin  irrigation  subdivision.     For 

ordinary    public    works    the    District    forms    a    subdivision    of    the 

Thayetmyo  Public  Works  division.     There  is  a  Deputy-Conservator  of 

forests  at  Minbu,  who  is  also  in  charge  of  the  Magwe  forests.     The 

total  number  of  village  headmen  is  458. 

The  District,  subdivisional,  and  township  courts  are  ordinarily 
presided  over  by  the  respective  executive  officers.  The  head-quarters 
magistrate  at  Minbu,  however,  acts  as  additional  judge  of  the  District 
court,  and  there  is  an  additional  judge  in  the  Salin  township  court. 
The  indigenous  population  are  on  the  whole  law-abiding,  and  not  as 
a  rule  litigious. 

Before  annexation,  revenue  in  Upper  Burma  was  raised  by  a  fixed 
lump  assessment  on  every  town  (myo),  and  was  collected  in  kind  by 
the  town-headman  (myo-ivun),  who  sold  the  produce  thus  collected, 
and  forwarded  to  the  court  officials  the  whole  or  so  much  of  the 
proceeds  as  he  thought  would  content  them.  The  thathameda  tax, 
the  chief  source  of  revenue,  was  introduced  by  king  Mindon,  and  at 

1  The   transfer   of  the    head-quarters    to    Magwe    has    been    sanetioned,  and  will 
probably  take  place  shortly. 


ADMINISTRATION  355 

first  stood  at  Rs.  3  per  household.  Subsequently  it  was  raised  until 
it  reached  an  average  of  about  Rs.  10.  Along  the  Mon  valley  the 
tax  seems  to  have  been  treated  as  a  tax  partly  on  households  and 
partly  on  land,  the  average  rate  being  Rs.  10.  Every  household  was 
assessed,  in  the  first  instance,  at  only  Rs.  5,  the  balance  varying 
according  to  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  land  worked  by  the 
taxpayer.  A  direct  land  tax  was  also  levied  on  certain  kinds  of  state 
land  :  namely,  irrigated  and  mayin  (hot-season)  rice  lands,  some  kyun 
(island)  and  kaing  (alluvial)  lands,  and  certain  lands  devoted  to  the 
upkeep  of  pagodas  and  other  religious  property.  Irrigated  state  land 
paid  much  the  same  proportion  of  out-turn  in  revenue  as  non-state 
land  paid  in  rent  to  the  local  landlords.  In  Salin  the  amount  was 
usually  one-half  or  one-third,  in  Sagu  and  Legaing  one-half  to  one- 
fourth.  Mayin  rice  lands  paid  sometimes  one-fifth  of  their  out-turn, 
and  sometimes  Rs.  10  per  ic  saiks  (about  2  acres).  Kyun  lands  were 
variously  assessed  :  and  alluvial  lands,  if  of  good  quality,  would  pay 
about  one-fifth  ;  if  poor,  one-tenth  of  their  produce. 

After  annexation  the  Burmese  methods  of  assessment  were  at  first 
generally  maintained;  but  in  1890  an  ad  interim  system  was  intro- 
duced under  which  Government  dealt  direct  with  the  cultivators, 
instead  of  through  officials  like  the  myo-ivuns,  and  the  rate  at  which 
rice  was  to  be  commuted  was  fixed  annually  by  the  Deputy-Com- 
missioner according  to  market  rates.  Lump-sum  assessments  and  acre 
rates  were  abolished,  the  kan  (roughly  75  square  cubits)  was  taken  as 
the  unit,  and  rates  were  raised  all  round.  At  the  same  time  crop  out- 
turns were  measured,  and  statistics  collected  as  to  the  cost  of  culti- 
vation, with  the  result  that  in  the  following  year  (189 1-2)  the  rates 
were  generally  reduced.  By  1893  the  cadastral  survey  of  most  of  the 
District  was  completed,  and  in  that  year  regular  settlement  operations 
were  started.  They  were  finished  by  the  end  of  1897.  but  did  not 
include  the  townships  of  Ngape  and  Sidoktaya,  which  were  summarily 
settled  in  1901.  As  a  result  the  main  rates,  as  finally  sanctioned  for 
five  years  in  1899,  were  as  follows:  irrigated  rice,  Rs.  2  to  Rs.  7  per 
acre  ;  alluvial  rice  {laze),  R.  1  to  Rs.  4-8  ;  hot-season  rice,  Rs.  4  ; 
unirrigated  rice,  Rs.  1-8  or  Rs.  2-8.  Alluvial  crops  other  than 
rice  pay  from  Rs.  2  to  Rs.  7,  and  upland  {ya)  crops  are  assessed  at 
rates  varying  from  4  annas  to  Rs.  1-8  per  acre.  These  figures  all 
refer  to  state  land ;  other  land  pays  three-fourths  of  these  rates.  The 
average  size  of  a  holding  (including  fallows)  is — for  irrigated  rice, 
7£  acres  ;  for  taze  rice,  5!  acres ;  for  mayin  rice,  2\  acres  ;  for  mogaung 
rice,  6 \  acres;  for  ya  crops,  8|  acres  ;  and  for  alluvial  (kaing)  crops, 
5^  acres. 

As  the  result  of  the  summary  settlement  of  the  Ngape  and  Sidoktaya 
townships  in   1901,  the  rate  for  irrigated  rice  has  been  fixed  at  Rs.  4 


35 


6  MINBU  DISTRICT 


or  Rs.  3,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  soil,  while  unirrigated  rice 
pays  Rs.  2,  ya  land  from  8  annas  to  R.  1,  and  alluvial  crops  from 
R.  1  to  Rs.  5  per  acre.  The  average  size  of  a  holding  in  the 
summarily  settled  tract  is — for  rice  land,  4  acres  ;  for  gardens,  t^  acres  ; 
and  for  ya  land,  7  acres. 

The  following  table  shows   the  fluctuations  in   the    revenue    since 
1 890-1,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1 890-1. 

1 900- 1.         1903-4. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

yo 

4J3             4,04 

7,70 

The  large  increase  in  land  revenue  between  1 890-1  and  1 900-1  is 
due  to  the  settlement.  Thathameda  fell,  on  the  introduction  of  acre 
rates,  from  4  lakhs  in  1890-1  to  Rs.  2,41,000  in  1900-1,  but  rose  to 
Rs.  2,58,000  in  1903-4. 

The  income  of  the  District  fund  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  27,000,  half  of 
which  was  spent  on  public  works.  There  are  two  municipalities  in 
the  District,  those  of  Minbu  and  Salin. 

•  For  police  purposes  the  District  is  in  charge  of  a  District  Super- 
intendent, and  is  divided  into  two  subdivisions  which  are  under  an 
Assistant  Superintendent  or  an  inspector.  The  strength  of  the  force 
is  3  inspectors,  13  head  constables,  34  sergeants,  and  429  constables; 
and  there  are  n  police  stations  and  13  outposts.  The  contingent  of 
military  police  belongs  to  the  Magwe  battalion,  and  consists  chiefly 
of  Sikhs  and  Punjabis  with  an  admixture  of  Karens.  The  sanctioned 
strength  is  5  native  officers  and  180  rifles,  of  whom  3  native  officers 
and  no  rifles  are  stationed  at  Minbu,  and  the  remainder  at  Salin  and 
Pwinbyu.  Minbu  no  longer  contains  a  jail,  and  convicts  are  sent 
to  Magwe. 

The  District,  in  spite  of  its  large  total  of  Chins,  who  are  practically 
all  uneducated,  had  in  1901  the  largest  proportion  of  males  able  to 
read  and  write  in  the  Province,  namely  53-3  per  cent.,  a  result  which 
is  largely  the  outcome  of  the  energy  of  the  local  monastic  teachers. 
For  the  population  as  a  whole,  male  and  female,  the  proportion  was 
27-3  per  cent.  The  number  of  pupils  in  public  and  private  schools 
was  3,417  in  1891  and  7,793  in  1901,  and  the  proportion  to  the  total 
population  of  school-going  age  in  the  last-named  year  was  estimated 
at  25  per  cent.  In  1904  there  were  9  secondary,  167  primary,  and 
419  elementary  (private)  schools,  with  an  attendance  of  7,896  (including 
349  girls).  Of  lay  institutions,  the  most  important  is  the  Government 
high  school  at  Minbu.  The  total  educational  expenditure  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  Rs.  21,000,  of  which  Rs.  3,000  was  derived  from  fees, 
and  the  rest  from  Provincial  funds. 


MINEU   TOWN  357 

Minbu  and  Salin  possess  hospitals,  and  there  is  a  small  dispensary 
at  Sinbyugyun,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Salin  river.  The  two  hospitals 
have  accommodation  for  50  in-patients,  of  whom  508  were  treated  in 
1903,  the  total  number  of  out-patients  during  the  same  year  being 
15,303,  and  that  of  operations  242.  Towards  their  combined  income 
of  Rs.  8,300  the  two  municipalities  contributed  Rs.  3,900,  Provincial 
funds  Rs.  3,700,  and  private  subscribers  Rs.  600.  The  dispensary  at 
Sinbyugyun  is  maintained  wholly  from  Provincial  funds. 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  within  the  two  municipalities.  In 
1903-4  the  number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  was  5,496, 
representing  24  per  r,ooo  of  population. 

[O.  S.  Parsons,  Settlement  Report  (1900).] 

Minbu  Subdivision. — Southern  subdivision  of  Minbu  District, 
Upper  Burma,  comprising  the  Sagu,  Legaing,  and  Ngape  townships. 

Minbu  Town. ■-  Head-quarters  of  the  Division  and  District  of  the 
same  name  in  Upper  Burma,  situated  in  20°  10'  N.  and  94°  53'  E., 
among  typical  dry  zone  surroundings  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Irrawaddy,  almost  immediately  opposite  the  town  of  Magwe1.  The 
town  has  several  prominent  features.  On  the  north  is  a  large  pagoda 
known  as  the  Red  Pagoda;  on  the  west  a  sharply  defined  conical 
eminence,  capped  by  a  pagoda,  stretches  at  right  angles  to  a  low  range 
of  hills  running  north  and  south ;  on  the  south  another  hill  rises 
abruptly  from  the  river  bank,  similarly  crowned  with  pagodas,  and 
topped  by  a  lofty  wooden  spire  erected  over  an  impression  of  a  foot. 
It  is  known  as  Buddha's  Foot  Hill.  The  natural  southern  boundary 
of  Minbu  is  the  Sabwet  stream,  a  sandy  nullah  communicating  with 
the  Irrawaddy  about  200  yards  south  of  the  last-named  shrine.  The 
town  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  small  creek  called  the  Dok. 
The  northern  or  native  portion  lies  near  the  Irrawaddy,  and  is  usually 
flooded  on  the  rise  of  the  river.  The  J  )eputy-Commissioner's  court 
lies  to  the  south,  between  the  Dok  and  the  southern  portion  of  the 
town,  which  stands  considerably  higher  and  is  not  liable  to  flooding. 
In  this  southern  area  is  situated  the  civil  station,  with  the  club,  several 
of  the  Government  offices  and  the  residences  of  the  local  officers  for 
the  most  part  standing  up  on  high  ground  well  above  the  river  bank. 
Minbu  was  a  small  fishing  village  previous  to  the  annexation  of  Upper 
Burma  in  1885,  but  became  an  important  base  of  operations  in  1SS6, 
and  since  then  has  always  been  the  head-quarters  of  the  District. 
Its  population  was  7,270  in  1891,  and  5,780  in  1901,  having,  like 
Salin,  Magwe,  Yenangyaung,  and  other  towns  in  the  dry  zone,  de- 
creased during  the  decade.  The  people  are  occupied  mainly  in  river 
business,  trading,  and  fishing.     A  fair  amount  of  trade  passes  through 

1  The  transfer  of  the  Divisional  head-quarters  to  Magwe  has  been  sanctioned,  and 
will  probably  take  place  shortly. 


03 


3  MINBU   TOWN 


the  town,  and  the  steamers  of  the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company  give 
regular  communication  with  all  ports  on  the  Irrawaddy ;  but,  like 
Myingyan,  Minbu  has  suffered  from  the  vagaries  of  the  river,  which 
has  shown  a  tendency  of  late  years  to  form  sandbanks  in  the  channel 
opposite  the  regular  steamer  ghat.  In  the  rains  the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla 
steamers  are  able  to  come  alongside  the  town,  but  during  the  dry 
season  they  have  to  anchor  at  a  village  2  miles  to  the  south. 

A  municipal  council  was  formed  in  1887  and  reconstituted  in  1901. 
The  income  and  expenditure  during  the  ten  years  ending  1901  averaged 
nearly  Rs.  17,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  21,000,  bazar  rents 
contributing  Rs.  9,000  ;  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  19,000,  the  chief 
items  being  conservancy  and  roads  (Rs.  5,000  each).  The  town 
hospital  contains  28  beds,  and  310  in-patients  and  8,300  out-patients 
were  treated  at  it  in  1903.  The  Government  high  school  has  a  steadily 
increasing  attendance,  and  boys  come  to  it  from  all  parts  of  Minbu  and 
Magwe  Districts. 

Minbya  Subdivision.  —  Subdivision  of  Akyab  District,  Lower 
Burma,   consisting  of  the  Pauktaw  and  Minbya  townships. 

Minbya  Township. — Eastern  township  of  Akyab  District,  Lower 
Burma,  lying  between  200  2'  and  200  35'  N.  and  930  7'  and  930  43'  E., 
on  the  western  edge  of  the  Arakan  Voma,  with  an  area  of  480  square 
miles.  The  population  was  35,505  in  1891,  and  41,663  in  1901, 
consisting  largely  of  Chins.  There  are  295  villages.  The  head- 
quarters are  at  Minbya  (population,  1,322),  on  a  branch  of  the  Lemro 
river.  The  area  cultivated  in  1903-4  was  104  square  miles,  paying 
Rs.  1,33,000  land  revenue. 

Minchinabad  Tahsil. — Head-quarters  tahsll  of  the  nizamat  of  the 
same  name,  Bahawalpur  State,  Punjab,  lying  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Sutlej,  between  290  53'  and  30°  25'  N.  and  730  2'  and  730  58'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  603  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  72,272, 
compared  with  68,070  in  1891.  It  contains  the  town  of  Minchinabad 
(population,  2,558),  the  head-quarters  ;  and  235  villages.  The  tahsll 
lies  for  the  most  part  in  the  lowlands  of  the  Sutlej  valley.  The  land 
revenue  and  cesses  in  1905-6  amounted  to  2-1  lakhs. 

Minchinabad  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  nizamat  and  tahsll  of 
the  same  name  in  Bahawalpur  State,  Punjab,  situated  in  300  io'  N. 
and  730  34'  E.,  on  the  Southern  Punjab  Railway,  in  the  north-eastern 
corner  of  the  State.  Population  (1901),  2,558.  It  was  named  after  the 
late  Colonel  Charles  Minchin,  Political  Agent  in  Bahawalpur,  1866-76. 
The  town  contains  a  dispensary,  has  a  large  manufacture  of  saltpetre, 
and  is  a  great  centre  of  the  export  trade  in  grain.  The  municipality 
had  an  income  in  1903-4  of  Rs.  6,100,  chiefly  from  octroi. 

Mindon.  —Western  township  of  Thayetmyo  District,  Burma,  lying 
between    19°   3'  and    iy°  30'  X.  and  94^  30'  and   94'    56'  P.,  with  an 


.VIXHI.A    TOWNSHIP 


35<> 


area  of  70S  square  miles.  The  township,  which  is  undulating  in  the 
east  and  hilly  in  the  Arakan  Yoma  country  in  the  west,  contains 
251  villages.  It  had  a  population  of  35.040  in  1891,  and  30,350  in 
1 90 1.  Emigration  to  the  more  fertile  lands  of  the  delta  accounts  for 
the  falling  off  during  the  decade.  The  head-quarters  are  at  Mindon, 
a  village  of  803  inhabitants,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Maton  river 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  Arakan  Hills.  The  total  number  of  Chins 
is  about  4,000.  They  inhabit  the  Arakan  Yoma,  which  covers  the 
western  half  of  the  township.  About  35  square  miles  were  cultivated 
in  1903-4,  paying  Rs.  29,000  land  revenue. 

Mingin  Subdivision. — South-eastern  subdivision  of  the  Upper 
Chindwin  District,  Upper  Burma,  containing  the  Mingin  and  Kyabin 
townships. 

Mingin  Township.-  South-eastern  township  of  the  Upper  Chind- 
win District,  Upper  Burma,  lying  on  either  side  of  the  Chindwin  river, 
between  220  36'  and  230  12'  N.  and  940  22'  and  940  55'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  1,311  square  miles.  It  consists  throughout  of  low  hills.  The 
population,  which  is  almost  wholly  Burman,  was  21,015  in  1891,  and 
19,941  in  190 1,  distributed  in  141  villages.  The  head-quarters  are  at 
Mingin  (population,  1,815),  on  trie  Chindwin  river,  about  80  miles  below 
Kindat.  The  villages  lie  on  the  Chindwin  and  its  tributaries,  the 
Maukkadaw  stream  on  the  north  and  the  Patolin  on  the  south.  The 
area  cultivated  in  1903-4  was  37  square  miles,  and  the  land  revenue 
and  thathameda  amounted  to  Rs.  42,000. 

Minhla  Subdivision. — Subdivision  of  Thayetmyo  District,  Burma, 
consisting  of  the  Minhla  and  Sinbaungwe  townships. 

Minhla  Township  (1). — Northernmost  township  of  Thayetmyo  Dis- 
trict, Burma,  lying  between  190  30'  and  190  59'  N.  and  940  24"  and 
950  i2r  E.,  and  extending  from  the  Irrawaddy  to  the  Arakan  Yoma 
in  the  west,  with  an  area  of  490  square  miles.  It  contains  290  villages, 
the  most  important  of  which  is  Minhla  (population,  2,553),  the  head- 
quarters, on  the  right  or  west  bank  of  the  Irrawaddy  close  to  the 
border  of  Minbu  District.  The  population  was  33,416  in  1891,  and 
42,120  in  1901.  It  is  the  only  township  of  the  District  which  has 
increased  considerably  in  population  during  the  past  decade.  There 
are  nearly  6,000  Chins,  who  inhabit  the  hilly  country  to  the  west. 
East  of  the  Yoma,  towards  the  Irrawaddy  valley,  the  country  is  cut 
up  by  many  low  hills.  The  area  under  cultivation  in  1903-4  was 
41  square  miles,  paying  Rs.  36,000  land  revenue.  In  1902-3 
capitation  tax  took  the  place  of  thathameda  as  the  main  source  of 
revenue. 

Minhla  Township  (2). — Central  township  of  Tharrawaddy  District, 
Lower  Burma,  lying  between  170  53"  and  iS°  20"  N.  and  950  37' 
and  960  4'  E.,  and  stretching  from  the  Pegu  Yoma  westward  to  the 


360  MI  XII  LA    TOWNSHIP 

border  of  the  Monyo  township,  with  an  area  of  627  square  miles, 
for  the  most  part  flat  and  fertile.  In  1891  the  population  was 
75,068,  and  in  1901  86,939.  Minhla  (population,  3,537)  is  the 
head-quarters,  and  the  only  town.  The  number  of  villages  is  468. 
The  area  cultivated  in  1903-4  was  177  square  miles,  paying 
Rs.   2,42,000  land  revenue. 

Minhla  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  township  of  the  same  name 
in  Tharrawaddy  District,  Lower  Burma,  situated  in  180  N.  and 
950  44'  E.,  near  the  centre  of  the  District  on  the  Rangoon-Prome 
railway,  91  miles  from  Rangoon.  Population  (1901),  3,537.  The 
town  is  administered  by  a  town  committee,  which  consists  of  five 
members.  In  1903-4  the  income  of  the  town  fund  was  Rs.  15,400, 
and  the  expenditure  Rs.  14,700. 

Minicoy. — An  island  attached  to  the  District  of  Malabar  in  the 
Madras  Presidency,  lying  in  the  Arabian  Sea,  in  8°  18'  N.  and  730  E. 
The  lighthouse  on  the  southern  end  was  finished  in  1885.  Politically 
Minicoy  appertains  to  the  Laccadive  group,  but  ethnologically  and 
geographically  it  belongs  to  the  Maldive  Islands.  It  is  6  miles  long 
by  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  contains  an  area  of  about  if  square 
miles.  Population  (1901),  3,097.  The  physical  characteristics  of 
Minicoy  are  similar  to  those  of  the  other  Laccadive  Islands  ;  but 
it  contains  no  tottam,  or  garden  cultivation,  and  the  coco-nut  trees 
are  smaller,  and  there  is  more  jungle  interspersed  among  the 
plantations. 

The  people  are  probably  of  Singhalese  extraction  ;  they  are  darker 
and  smaller  than  the  other  islanders ;  their  language  is  Mahl,  and 
they  have  a  duodecimal  numerical  system.  Though  Muhammadans, 
they  are  strictly  monogamous,  and  the  women  take  the  lead  in  every- 
thing except  navigation.  A  girl's  consent  has  to  be  obtained  before 
marriage,  and  she  brings  no  dowry,  but  receives  presents  from  the 
bridegroom.  There  are  three  subdivisions  among  the  people — the 
Malikhans,  the  Malumis  or  Takkarus,  and  the  Kohlus — which  corre- 
spond to  the  three  found  on  the  other  islands  ;  but,  unlike  the  other 
islanders,  the  Minicoy  people  are  all  congregated  in  one  village,  which 
is  divided  into  ten  quarters  or  wards,  in  each  of  which  the  male  and 
female  populations  are  organized  into  separate  clubs,  each  managed 
by  its  own  headman  or  headwoman  and  forming  a  unit  for  social 
and  political  purposes.  The  fishing-boats  are  very  well  made,  and 
the  men  are  expert  navigators.  The  islanders'  chief  trouble  is  the 
food-supply.  All  the  rice  has  to  be  imported,  and  the  trade  is  prac- 
tically monopolized  by  the  chief  Malikhans.  The  revenue  is  raised 
by  a  poll-tax  and  taxes  on  fishing-boats,  &c,  and  not  by  a  monopoly 
as  in  the  other  islands.  Minicoy  came  into  the  possession  of  the 
Ali    Raja   of  Cannanore    later  than  the   other   islands,  probably  not 


MIR  A  J   TOWN  361 

till  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century,  as  a  gift  from  the  Sultan 
of  the  Maldives,  and  this  accounts  for  the  difference  in  its  adminis- 
tration '. 

Miraj  State  (Senior  Branch). — State  under  the  Political  Agent 
of  Kolhapur  and  the  Southern  Maratha  Country,  Bombay,  with  an 
area  of  339  square  miles.  It  consists  of  three  divisions  :  a  group 
of  villages  in  the  valley  of  the  Kistna,  a  second  group  in  the  south 
of  Dharwar  District,  and  a  third  in  the  midst  of  Sholapur  District. 
The  State  contains  5  towns,  the  chief  being  Miraj  (population, 
18,425),  the  head-quarters,  and  Lakshmeshwar  (12,860);  and  59 
villages.  The  population  in  1901  was  81,467,  Hindus  numbering 
68,660,  Muhammadans  8,778,  and  Jains  3,866.  The  portion  of  the 
State  which  is  watered  by  the  Kistna  is  flat  and  rich  ;  the  remaining 
parts  lie  low  and  are  surrounded  by  undulating  lands  and  occasionally 
intersected  by  ridges  of  hills.  The  prevailing  soil  is  black.  Irrigation 
is  carried  on  from  rivulets,  tanks,  and  wells.  As  in  the  rest  of  the 
Deccan,  the  climate  is  always  dry,  and  is  oppressively  hot  from  March 
to  May.  The  principal  crops  are  millet,  wheat,  gram,  sugar-cane,  and 
cotton.  Coarse  cotton  cloth  and  musical  instruments  are  the  chief 
manufactures. 

Miraj  was  originally  a  portion  of  Sangli,  from  which  it  was  detached 
in  1808.  In  1820  it  was,  with  the  sanction  of  the  British  Government, 
divided  into  four  shares,  and  the  service  of  horsemen  was  proportioned 
to  each.  Two  of  these  shares  lapsed  in  1842  and  1845  from  failure 
of  male  issue ;  the  two  others  remain.  The  whole  area  of  the  State 
has  been  surveyed  and  settled.  The  chief  ranks  as  a  first-class  Sardar 
in  the  Southern  Maratha  Country.  He  has  power  to  try  his  own 
subjects  for  capital  offences.  The  revenue  in  1903-4  was  3^  lakhs, 
of  which  2-7  lakhs  was  from  land.  Tribute  of  Rs.  12,558  is  payable 
to  the  British  Government.  The  family  holds  a  sanad  authorizing 
adoption,  and  follows  the  rule  of  primogeniture  in  matters  of  suc- 
cession. Of  the  five  municipalities  in  the  State,  Miraj  and  Laksh- 
meshwar have  incomes  of  Rs.  15,500  and  Rs.  7,000  respectively. 
There  are  25  schools  with  1,237  pupils.  The  police  force  numbers 
235  men,  maintained  in  1903-4  at  a  cost  of  Rs.  23,400.  There  are 
three  jails,  with  a  daily  average  of  55  prisoners.  The  State  contains 
three  dispensaries,  which  afforded  relief  to  35,371  persons  in  1903-4. 
In  the  same  year  1,789  persons  were  vaccinated. 

Miraj  Town. — Capital  of  the  State  of  Miraj  (Senior  Branch)  in 
the  Southern  Maratha  Country,  Bombay,  situated  in  160  49'  N.  and 
740  41'  E.,  near  the  Kistna  river,  a  few  miles  south-east  of  Sangli. 
Population   (1901),    18,425.     In    1761    the   fort    of  Miraj    with    some 

1  An  interesting  account  of  Minicoy  .Marco  Polo's  '  Female  Island'^  is  to  be  found 
in  BlackwooJ's  Magazine  for  February  and  March,  1889. 


362  MIRAJ   TOWN 

thanas   was   assigned    by    the    Peshwa   Madhu    Rao   to  Govind    Rao 

Patvardhan  for  the  maintenance  of  troops.  Miraj  is  a  large  trading 
town,  with  two  old  dargdhs,  built  in  1491.  It  is  administered  as  a 
municipality,  with  an  income  in  1903-4  of  Rs.  15,500.  It  contains 
a  high  school  and  a  dispensary. 

Miraj  State  (Junior  Branch).  — State  under  the  Political  Agent 
of  Kolhapur  and  the  Southern  Maratha  Country,  Bombay,  with  an 
area  of  211  square  miles.  It  consists  of  three  divisions:  a  group 
of  villages  adjoining  the  Bankapur  tdhtka  of  Dharwar  District  ; 
a  second  near  the  Tasgaon  tdluka  of  Satara  District ;  a  third  near 
the  Pandharpur  taluka  of  Sholapur  District,  which  also  includes  four 
///dm  villages  in  Poona  District.  There  are  3  towns,  the  largest 
being  Bhudgaon  (population,  3,591),  where  the  chief  resides;  and 
31  villages.  The  population  in  1901  was  35,806,  Hindus  numbering 
32,484,  Muhammadans  2,034,  and  Jains  1,288.  The  soil  is  generally 
black.  Indian  millet,  wheat,  gram,  and  cotton  are  the  chief  crops  ; 
arid  coarse  cotton  cloth  is  the  principal  manufacture.  The  history 
of  this  branch  of  the  family  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  Senior  Branch, 
given  above.  The  chief  ranks  as  a  first-class  Sardar  in  the  Southern 
Maratha  Country,  and  has  power  to  try  his  own  subjects  for  capital 
offences.  The  family  holds  a  sa/iad  authorizing  adoption,  and  follows 
the  rule  of  primogeniture  in  matters  of  succession.  The  estimated 
revenue  is  about  4  lakhs,  and  the  expenditure  nearly  3  lakhs.  Tribute 
of  Rs.  6,412  is  payable  to  the  British  Government.  The  police  force 
numbers  143.  In  1903-4  there  were  three  jails,  with  a  daily  average 
of  23  prisoners.  There  are  30  schools  in  the  State,  attended  by 
991  pupils.  Two  dispensaries  treat  about  14,500  persons.  In  1903  4 
about  800  persons  were  vaccinated. 

Miram  Shah  (Miran  S//d//). — Head-quarters  of  the  Northern 
YVaziristan  Agency,  North-West  Frontier  Province,  situated  in  33° 
57'  N.  and  700  7'  E.,  in  Daur  (the  Tochi  valley),  about  57  miles 
west  of  Bannu.  Its  elevation  is  3,050  feet  above  the  sea,  and  it  com- 
prises three  or  four  hamlets.  It  is  now  garrisoned  by  the  Northern 
Waziristan  militia. 

Miranpur. — Town  in  the  Jansath  tahsll  of  Muzaffarnagar  District, 
United  Provinces,  situated  in  290  17'  N.  and  770  57'  E.,  20  miles  from 
Muzaffarnagar  town.  Population  (1901),  7,209.  It  is  the  home  of 
a  family  of  Saiyids,  descended  from  a  member  of  the  Chhatraun 
branch  of  the  famous  Barha  Saiyids.  Early  in  1858  it  was  attacked 
by  the  Bijnor  rebels,  but  successfully  held  by  British  troops.  Miran- 
pur is  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about 
Rs.  2,000.  At  one  time  there  was  a  large  local  trade  in  rice,  sugar, 
salt,  and  grain  ;  but  the  opening  of  the  railway  has  diverted  trade  to 
Khatauli  and  Muzaffarnagar.     Blankets  are  still  made  to  a  large  extent, 


MIRIALGUDA  363 

and  also  coarse  blue  pottery  and  papier  mache  goods.  There  are  two 
small  schools. 

MIranpur  Katra.— Town  in  Shahjahanpur  District,  United  Pro- 
vinces.    See  Katra. 

Miran  Shah. — Head-quarters  of  the  Northern  Wazlristan  Agency, 
North-West  Frontier  Province.     See  Miram  Shah. 

Miranzai. —  Tahsil  and  town  in  Kohat  District,  North- West  Frontier 
Province.     See  Hangu. 

Mirganj  Tahsil. — West-central  tahsil  of  Bareilly  District,  United 
Provinces,  comprising  the  parganas  of  Shahi,  Sirauli  (North),  and 
Ajaon,  and  lying  between  280  24'  and  280  41'  N.  and  790  6'  and 
790  24'  E.,  with  an  area  of  149  square  miles.  Population  increased 
from  95,300  in  1891  to  103,198  in  1901.  There  are  158  villages  and 
one  town,  Shahi  (population,  3,556).  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  1,50,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  26,000.  The  density  of 
population,  640  persons  per  square  mile,  is  below  the  District  average. 
The  shifting  channel  of  the  Ramganga  winds  through  the  south  of  the 
tahsil ';  and  the  Dhakra,  Dhora,  and  West  Bangui,  after  flowing  from 
the  northern  border,  unite  to  form  the  Dojora.  Mirganj  is  a  level 
well-cultivated  plain,  the  greater  portion  of  which  is  sufficiently  moist 
not  to  require  artificial  irrigation.  It  produces  sugar-cane  largely,  and 
sugar  is  refined  in  many  places.  In  1903-4  the  area  under  cultivation 
was  in  square  miles,  of  which  17  were  irrigated.  Tanks  or  jhlls 
supply  more  than  half  the  irrigated  area.  The  new  dam  across  the 
Kuli  Nadl  will  supply  irrigation   to  the  north  of  this  tahsil. 

Mirganj  Town. — Town  in  the  Gopalganj  subdivision  of  Sararj 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  260  25'  N.  and  840  20'  E.  Population 
(1901),  9,698.     It  is  a  large  trading  centre. 

Miri  Hills. — A  section  of  the  Himalayan  range  lying  north  of 
Lakhimpur  District,  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  between  the  hills 
occupied  by  the  Gallongs  and  the  Ranganadi,  and  inhabited  by  the 
Miri  tribe.  The  Mlris  are  of  Tibeto-Burman  origin,  and  have  tall, 
well-developed  frames,  with  pleasant  countenances  of  the  Mongolian 
type.  Unlike  their  neighbours  they  have  never  given  trouble  to  the 
British  Government,  and  large  numbers  of  the  tribe  have  now  settled 
on  the  Assam  plains.  A  full  account  of  the  Mlris  will  be  found  in 
Colonel   1  )alton's  Ethnology  of  Bengal. 

Mirialguda. — Southern  taluk  of  Nalgonda  District,  Hyderabad 
State,  separated  from  the  Guntur  District  of  Madras  by  the  Kistna 
river.  Till  1905  it  was  also  called  Devalpalli.  Including  jaglrs,  the 
population  in  1901  was  78,545,  and  the  area  768  square  miles.  The 
population  in  i89r  was  87,130,  the  decrease  being  due  to  the  transfer 
of  villages.  The  taluk  contains  154  villages,  of  which  4  are  jag//; 
and  Mirialguda   (population,   3,660)   is   the   head-quarters.      The  land 

VOL.  xvii.  a  a 


364  MIRIALGUDA 

revenue  in  iyoi  was  2-4  lakhs.  Rice  is  extensively  irrigated  from 
tanks,  channels,  and  wells.  The  new  taluk  of  Pochamcherla,  con- 
stituted in   1905,  received  35  villages  from  Mirialguda. 

Mirjan.  Village  in  the  Kumta  tilluka  of  North  Kanara  District, 
Bombay,  situated  in  140  30'  N.  and  74°  28'  E.,  about  5  miles  north 
of  Kumta  town.  Population  (1901),  1,500.  It  has  a  ruined  fort  said 
to  have  been  built  by  Sarpan  Malik,  probably  a  reminiscence  of  the 
Bijapur  title  Sharlf-ul-mulk.  Mirjan  has  been  supposed  to  be  the 
ancient  Muziris  mentioned  by  Pliny  as  the  first  trading  town  in  India ; 
but  an  alternative  is  to  be  found  in  Muyiri,  the  old  name  of  Cranganur, 
20  miles  north  of  Cochin.  Under  the  Vijayanagar  kings  Mirjan  was 
held  by  local  tributary  chiefs.  Albuquerque  visited  it  in  15 10.  It 
subsequently  passed  to  Bijapur,  and  later  to  the  Bednur  chief  Sivappa 
Naik.  The  Marathas  seized  it  in  1757.  It  suffered  from  the  depreda- 
tions of  Haidar,  and  was  destroyed  by  Tipu.  Fryer  visited  Mirjan  in 
the  seventeenth  century,  and  has  recorded  a  description  of  it. 

MIrpur  Subdivision.— Subdivision  of  Sukkur  District,  Sind. 
Bombay,  consisting  of  the  Mirpuk  Mathelo  and  Ubauro  talukas. 

Mirpur  Town.  -Town  in  the  Bhimber  district  of  the  Jammu  pro- 
vince, Kashmir,  situated  in  330  11'  N.  and  73°49'  E.,at  an  elevation  of 
1,236  feet  above  sea-level.  It  lies  22  miles  north  of  the  British  canton 
ment  of  Jhelum,  and  is  said  to  have  been  founded  about  200  years  ago 
by  the  Gakhars,  Mlran  Khan  and  Sultan  Fateh  Khan.  It  stands  on 
high  ground  on  the  edge  of  the  Kareli  Kas,  from  which  drinking- 
water  is  easily  procured.  There  are  several  rather  picturesque  temples, 
the  chief  being  the  Sarkari  Mandir,  built  by  Maharaja  Gulab  Singh;  the 
Raghunathji  ;  and  the  temple  of  Diwan  Amar  Nath.  The  town  con- 
tains 550  shops,  forming  a  long  bazar  running  east  and  west.  Apart 
from  the  shop-keeping  class,  Brahmans  and  Sikhs,  of  whom  many  are 
settled  in  Mirpur,  the  inhabitants  are  mostly  of  the  artisan  or  menial 
classes.  There  is  a  nourishing  State  school  badly  housed,  and  a  dis- 
pensary in  a  building  wholly  unsuited  to  the  purpose.  The  town  has 
a  neglected  appearance.  The  streets  are  badly  laid,  dirty,  and  un- 
drained,  and  no  attempts  have  been  made  at  conservancy.  Trade  is 
brisk.  It  is  mostly  in  the  hands  of  Mahajans  and  Khattrls.  The  chief 
articles  of  export  to  British  India  are  grain,  ghl  from  the  hills  and 
Punch,  and  minor  forest  products  from  Kotli,  Punch,  and  Rajauri  ;  the 
chief  imports  are  salt,  cloth,  tea,  and  sugar. 

Mirpur  Batoro.  -Tdluka  of  Karachi  District,  Sind,  Bombay,  lying 
between  240  36'  and  25°  1'  N.  and  68°  9'  and  68°  26'  E.,  with  an  area 
of  269  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  37,116,  compared 
with  35,196  in  1 891,  dwelling  in  62  villages,  of  which  Mirpur  Batoro  is 
the  head-quarters.  The  density  is  138  persons  per  square  mile,  and 
this  is  the  most  thickly  populated  tdluka  in  the  District.     The  land 


MlRPUR  MATHELO  365 

revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  over  1-4  lakhs.  The  taluka 
lies  on  the  east  of  the  Indus,  which  forms  its  northern  boundary.  It 
is  shaped  somewhat  like  a  parallelogram,  and  is  an  alluvial  plain,  the 
northern  portion  being  watered  by  canals  fed  directly  by  the  Indus,  and 
the  central  and  southern  parts  by  distributaries  of  the  Pinjari  Mulchand 
canals.  The  finest  rice,  known  as  sugdasi,  is  grown  here,  owing  to  the 
soil  being  very  fertile.    Jowar  and  bajra  are  also  grown. 

Mirpur  Khas  Taluka. —  Taluka  of  Thar  and  Parkar  District,  Sind, 
Bombay,  lying  between  250  12'  and  250  48'  N.  and  68°  54'  and 
690  16'  E.,  with  an  area  of  457  square  miles.  The  population  rose 
from  27,866  in  1891  to  37,273  in  1901.  The  taluka  contains  one 
town,  Mirpur  Khas  (population,  2,787),  the  head-quarters  ;  and  135 
villages.  The  density,  82  persons  per  square  mile,  is  the  highest  in 
the  District.  The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to 
y^  lakhs.  The  taluka  is  irrigated  by  canals,  of  which  the  chief  is 
the  Jamrao.     The  Jodhpur-Bikaner  Railway  traverses  it. 

Mirpur  Khas  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluka  of  the  same 
name  in  Thar  and  Parkar  District,  Sind,  Bombay,  situated  in  25c3o'X. 
and  690  3'  E.,  on  the  Luni-Hyderabad  branch  of  the  Jodhpur-Bikaner 
Railway,  on  the  Let  Wah  canal,  and  also  on  the  high  road  from 
Hyderabad  to  Umarkot,  38  miles  south-east  of  Hala,  and  41  miles 
east-north-east  of  Hyderabad  via  Tando  Alahyar  (17  miles  distant). 
Population  (1901),  2,787.  The  local  trade  is  in  grain,  cotton  (said 
to  be  the  finest  in  Sind),  and  piece-goods,  valued  at  3-88  lakhs.  The 
annual  value  of  the  transit  trade  is  estimated  at  25-67  lakhs. 
Mirpur  is  a  comparatively  modern  town,  having  been  built  in  1806 
by  Mir  Ali  Murad  Talpur,  and  has  increased  in  importance  since 
the  opening  of  the  Jamrao  Canal  in  1900.  A  new  suburb  is  now 
being  built  on  approved  lines  by  the  colonization  officer  of  the 
Jamrao  Canal.  It  was  the  capital  of  Mir  Sher  Muhammad  Khan 
Talpur,  whose  army  was  defeated  in  1843  by  Sir  Charles  Napier  at 
Dabba  (Dabo)  near  Hyderabad.  The  town  was  constituted  a  muni- 
cipality in  1901,  and  had  an  income  in  1903-4  of  Rs.  13,000.  It. 
contains  a  dispensary  and  one  primary  school,  attended  by  84 
pupils. 

Mirpur  Mathelo. — Taluka  of  Sukkur  District,  Sind,  Bombay, 
lying  between  270  20'  and  280  7'  N.  and  690  16'  and  70°  io'  E., 
with  an  area  of  1,720  square  miles.  The  population  rose  from  48,068 
in  1 89 1  to  49,991  in  1901.  The  taluka  contains  100  villages,  of 
which  Mirpur  Mathelo  is  the  head-quarters.  This  is  the  most  thinly 
populated  tract  in  the  District,  with  a  density  of  only  29  persons 
per  square  mile.  The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted 
to  2-2  lakhs.  The  taluka,  which  produces  mostly  jowar,  is  watered 
by  the  Masa  Wah.     In  the  south  lies  a  wide  tract  of  sandy  desert. 

a  a  2 


366  MIRPUR   SAKRO 

Mirpur  Sakro. —  Taluka  of  Karachi  District,  Sind,  Bombay,  lying 
between  24°  14' and  240  51'  N.  and  670  9/  and  67°  55'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  1,137  square  miles,  of  which  nearly  half  is  kalar  land.  The 
population  in  1901  was  27,600,  compared  with  26,064  in  1891.  There 
are  74  villages,  but  no  town.  The  village  of  Mirpur  Sakro  is  the 
head-quarters.  The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to 
Rs.  60,000.  The  western  half  of  the  taluka  is  almost  entirely  un- 
inhabited and  uncultivable.  Towards  the  sea,  tidal  creeks  break  the 
coast-line  and  form  extensive  mangrove  swamps.  Irrigation  is  derived 
chiefly  from  the  Baghar  canal,  with  ten  branches,  and  from  two  smaller 
canals.     The  chief  crops  are  barley,  rice,  bdjra,  and  til. 

Mirta. — District  and  head-quarters  thereof  in  Jodhpur  State, 
Rajputana.     See  Merta. 

Mirzapur  District.  —  District  in  the  Benares  Division  of  the 
United  Provinces,  lying  between  2^  52'  and  250  32'  N.  and  820  7' 
and  830  33'  E.,  with  an  area  of  5,238  square  miles.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  Jaunpur  and  Benares  ;  on  the  east  by  the  Bengal 
Districts  of  Shahabad  and  Palamau ;  on  the  south  by  the  Surguja 
Tributary  State  and  the  State  of  Rewah  ;  and  on  the  west  by 
Allahabad.  The  District  of  Mirzapur  extends  over  a  larger  area 
than  any  other  in  the  United  Provinces,  except  those  situated  in 
the  Himalayas,  and  exhibits  a  corresponding  diversity  of  natural 
features.  The  northern  portion,  with  an  area  of  about  1,100  square 
miles,  forms  part  of  the  Gangetic  plain,  extending 
asoects  on  eitner  bank  of  the  great  river.      South   of   the 

Ganges  the  outer  scarp  of  the  Vindhyas  forms  an 
irregular  rampart,  sometimes  advancing  to  the  bank  of  the  Ganges, 
and  sometimes  receding  to  10  miles  or  more  away.  The  Yindhyan 
plateau  stretches  from  the  northern  scarp  for  a  distance  of  30  or  40 
miles  to  the  Kaimurs,  which  look  down  on  the  valley  of  the  Son. 
The  eastern  portion  of  the  plateau  forms  part  of  the  Benares  Estate, 
and  a  considerable  area  is  set  aside  by  the  Maharaja  as  a  game 
preserve.  The  scenery  in  this  tract  is  among  the  wildest  and  most 
beautiful  in  the  District,  and  the  portion  where  the  hills  meet  the 
plains  is  especially  picturesque.  The  Karamnasa  descends  by  a  suc- 
cession of  falls,  including  two  known  as  the  Latlfsah  and  Chhanpathar, 
which,  from  their  beauty,  are  deserving  of  special  notice.  The  tribu 
tary  stream  of  the  Chandraprabha  leaves  the  plateau  by  a  single 
cascade,  called  1  )eo  Dhari,  400  feet  in  height,  whence  it  passes 
through  a  gloomy  and  precipitous  gorge,  7  miles  long,  over  a  huge 
masonry  dam  to  the  open  country  beyond. 

After  passing  the  crest  of  the  Kaimur  hills,  a  more  rugged,  imposing, 
and  elevated  range  than  the  Vindhyas,  an  abrupt  descent  of  400 
or    500    feet    leads    down    into    the    valley   of    the   Son.     The   easiest 


MIRZAPUR   DISTRICT  367 

pass  is  the  Kiwai  ghat  above  Markund!  on  the  Ahraura-Chopan 
road.  The  basin  of  the  river  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  with 
occasional  stretches  of  alluvial  land  on  either  bank.  South  of  the 
Son  is  a  wilderness  of  parallel  ridges  of  rocky  hills,  of  no  great 
height,  but  exceedingly  rugged  and  clothed  with  stunted  forest. 
Excepting  a  few  level  patches  and  valleys,  with  the  large  basin  of 
Singraull  in  the  south-west  and  the  smaller  area  round  Dudhi  in  the 
south,  hills  cover  the  whole  area. 

The  two  main  rivers  are  the  Ganges  and  Son,  which  flow  from 
west  to  east  across  the  northern  and  central  portions  of  the  District 
respectively.  The  east  of  the  Vindhyan  plateau  is  drained  by  the 
Karamnasa  and  its  tributaries,  the  Garai  and  Chandraprabha,  and 
the  centre  by  the  Jirgo  and  small  streams,  all  of  which  flow  from 
south  to  north.  The  drainage  from  the  northern  slopes  of  the 
Kaimurs,  however,  passes  into  the  Belan,  which  has  a  course  from 
east  to  west.  South  of  the  Son  the  chief  rivers  are  the  Rihand 
and  Kanhar,  which  flow  north  to  join  that  stream.  There  are  few- 
lakes  or  marshes,  Samdha  Tal,  in  the  Korh  tahsil,  being  the  largest. 

Mirzapur  presents  an  unusual  variety  of  geological  formations. 
The  northern  portion  is  Gangetic  alluvium,  while  the  plateau  which 
lies  south  of  it  consists  of  upper  Vindhyan  sandstone  and  shale. 
The  lower  Vindhyan  series  occupies  the  Son  valley.  It  includes 
a  compact  limestone  bed,  250  feet  thick,  with  varying  underlying 
beds  of  conglomerate,  shale,  carbonaceous  beds,  limestone,  por- 
cellanite,  and  glauconitic  sandstones.  On  the  south  bank  are  beds 
of  indurated  highly  siliceous  volcanic  ashes,  while  on  the  north 
limestones  and  shales  belonging  to  the  Kheinjua  and  Rohtas  groups 
are  found.  The  hilly  tracts  south  of  the  Son  consist  of  the  Bijawar 
slates,  quartzites,  limestones,  basic  volcanic  rocks,  and  hematitic 
jasper.  In  the  extreme  south  are  found  gneiss  and  the  Gondwana 
beds  of  shale,  sandstone,  and  boulders.  On  the  south-west  border 
adjoining  the  Rewah  State  are  the  remains  of  an  exhausted  coal-mine l. 

The  flora  of  the  Gangetic  valley  presents  no  peculiarities.  The 
area  north  of  the  river  is  well  wooded,  while  trees  become  scantier 
as  the  hills  on  the  south  are  approached.  The  eastern  portion 
of  the  plateau  has  extensive  areas  of  low  jungle  ;  but  timber  attains 
an  average  growth  only  in  the  remoter  portions  and  in  the  game 
preserves.  South  of  the  Son  the  principal  jungles  are  composed 
of  sa/ai  (Bos7ce//ia  thiirifera),  mixed  with  thorns  and  a  few  dwarfed 
trees.  Sal  (Shorea  robusta)  is  found  in  the  hollows,  and  khatr  (Acacia 
Catechu)  is  common.  In  the  extreme  south  the  sal  is  of  better  quality, 
but  no  forest  land  is  '  reserved.' 

1  Records,  Geological  Survey  of  India,  vols,  v  and  vi ;  Memoirs,  Geological  Sitrz'ey 
of  India,  vols,  vii  and  xxxi. 


368  MTRZAPUR    DISTRICT 

Tigers  are  occasionally  found  in  the  preserves  of  Chakia,  and  are 
more  common  over  the  whole  tract  south  of  the  Son.  They  are 
also  met  with  in  the  gorges  of  the  Kaimurs  near  the  Rewah  boundary, 
and  in  parts  of  the  plateau.  Leopards  are  found  over  the  whole 
District  south  of  the  Ganges.  The  hyena,  wolf,  jackal,  and  fox  are 
common,  and  packs  of  wild  dogs  hunt  the  southern  jungle.  The 
sloth  bear  occurs  on  the  Vindhyan  plateau  and  on  the  Kaimurs.  In 
the  Ganges  valley  are  found  antelope,  'ravine  deer'  (gazelle),  and 
nilgai;  while  sambar  and  chltal  are  common  in  the  preserves,  and 
the  four-horned  antelope  is  met  with  occasionally.  As  a  rule  game- 
birds  are  scarce,  aquatic  species  particularly  so.  Fish  are  common 
in  the  Ganges,  and  are  largely  caught.  Mahseer  are  found  in  the 
Son  and  Belan. 

The  temperature  of  Mirzapur  is  subject  to  smaller  extremes  than 
in  the  Districts  farther  west.  The  greatest  heat  is  less,  except  where 
hare  rock  is  found,  and  the  cold  season  is  also  less  marked.  The 
climate  is  unhealthy  at  the  commencement  of  the  hot  season  and  also 
at  the  end  of  the  rains. 

The  annual  rainfall  averages  about  41  inches,  varying  from  3S  at 
Korh,  north  of  the  Ganges,  to  45  at  Robertsganj  on  the  plateau. 

The  early  history  of  the  greater  part  of  the  District  is  unknown, 
as  no  records  exist  of  the  rule  of  the  aboriginal  tribes,  and  their 
traditions  are  vague  and  unreliable.  The  Bhars 
once  held  the  Ganges  valley,  and  had  a  city  near 
the  present  site  of  Bindhachal.  Eastward  from  Chunar  the  country 
was  held  by  the  Cherus.  The  Soerls,  who  are  now  almost  extinct, 
were  formerly  powerful.  In  the  south  of  the  District  the  Kols  and 
Kharwars  ruled  in  the  forests.  About  the  end  of  the  twelfth  century 
Rajput  clans  seized  the  whole  District.  Portions  of  the  Gangetic 
valley  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Musahnans  a  few  years  later ;  hut 
little  is  heard  of  the  District  till  the  sixteenth  century,  when  Chunar 
became  an  important  post  in  the  wars  between  Humayun  and  Sher 
Shah.  The  fort  was  held  by  the  Pathans  for  some  time  after  the 
accession  of  Akbar.  In  the  eighteenth  century  this  area  was  included 
in  the  territory  granted  to  the  Nawab  of  Oudh.  In  1 738  the  governor 
of  the  sarkars  of  Benares,  Jaunpur,  Ghazlpur,  and  Chunar  fell  into 
disfavour  and  was  replaced  by  Mansa  Ram,  who  had  been  in  his 
employment.  Mansa  Ram  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  Balwant  Singh, 
Raja  of  Benares,  who  rapidly  extended  his  possessions  and  acquired 
the  whole  of  the  present  District,  except  the  fort  at  Chunar.  At  his 
death  in  1770  the  British  compelled  the  Nawab  to  recognize  the 
succession  of  C'het  Singh,  an  illegitimate  son  of  Balwant  Singh. 
In  1775  the  Nawab  ceded  sovereign  rights  to  the  British,  who 
confirmed  Chet  Singh  in  full  civil  and  criminal  powers  subject  to  the 


HISTORY  369 

payment  of  a  fixed  revenue.  Chet  Singh  refused  certain  demands 
made  by  Warren  Hastings  in  1781,  and  an  attempt  to  arrest  him 
led  to  an  hneute  at  Benares.  Hastings,  who  had  come  to  Benares, 
had  to  fly  to  Chunar  and  collect  troops,  who  defeated  Chet  Singh's 
forces  at  Sikhar  Patlta  and  Latlfpur.  Chet  Singh  took  refuge  in 
Bijaigarh,  his  stronghold  on  the  Kaimurs,  but  again  fled  on  the 
approach  of  the  British.  His  estates  were  then  conferred  on  Mahlp 
Narayan,  a  nephew  of  Balwant  Singh.  In  1788,  owing  to  his  mis- 
government,  Mahlp  Narayan's  private  estates,  comprising  Korh  and 
Chakia,  were  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  District,  which  was 
brought  under  the  ordinary  administration.  Its  history  is  thenceforth 
a  blank  till  the  date  of  the  Mutiny  in  1857. 

At  first  only  a  Sikh  guard  had  charge  of  the  treasury  at  Mirzapur  ; 
but  after  the  outbreaks  at  Benares  on  the  1st  and  at  Jaunpur  on 
the  5th  of  June,  Colonel  Pott  arrived  with  part  of  the  47th  Native 
Infantry.  The  Sikhs  were  called  into  Allahabad  on  the  8th  ;  and 
next  day,  strong  rumours  of  intended  attacks  by  the  rebels  being 
current,  all  the  officers,  except  Mr.  Tucker,  retired  to  Chunar.  On 
the  10th  Mr.  Tucker  attacked  and  defeated  the  insurgents ;  and 
on  the  13th  a  detachment  of  the  1st  Madras  Fusiliers  arrived  at 
Mirzapur,  and  destroyed  Gaura,  a  stronghold  of  the  river  dacoits. 
In  the  BhadohT  pargana,  Adwant  Singh,  head  of  the  Thakurs,  rebelled, 
but  was  captured  and  hanged.  The  Thakurs  vowed  vengeance, 
attacked  Mr.  Moore,  Deputy-Superintendent  of  the  Benares  Domains, 
at  the  Pali  factory,  and  on  July  4  murdered  him  together  with  two 
planters,  while  endeavouring  to  make  their  escape.  On  June  26  the 
Banda  and  Fatehpur  fugitives  arrived  and  passed  on  to  Allahabad. 
On  August  1 1  the  Dinapore  mutineers  entered  the  District,  but  were 
put  to  flight  by  three  companies  of  the  5th  Fusiliers,  and  left 
Mirzapur  at  once.  Kuar  Singh,  the  rebel  zamlndar  of  Shahabad 
District,  made  an  incursion  on  September  8  after  his  defeat  at  Arrah, 
but  the  people  compelled  him  to  pass  on  to  Banda.  On  September 
16,  when  the  50th  Native  Infantry  mutinied  at  Nagod,  the  officers 
and  200  faithful  sepoys  marched  through  Rewah  to  Mirzapur.  In 
January,  1858,  Mr.  Tucker  led  an  expedition  against  Bijaigarh,  drove 
the  rebels  across  the  Son,  and  re-established  order,  which  was  not 
again  disturbed. 

Some  interesting  cave-dwellings  have  been  discovered  on  the  scarp 
of  the  Kaimurs,  the  walls  of  which  are  occasionally  adorned  with 
rude  drawings  of  the  chase,  while  stone  implements  have  been  found 
on  the  floors l.  Curious  stone  images  of  bearded  men,  supposed 
to  be  relics  of   Bhar  rule,  are  found   in  the   north   of   the   District. 

1  Journal,  Asiatic  Society  of  Bengal,  1894,  pt.  iii.  p.  -'i  ;    fcurnal,  Royal  Asia 
Society,  1899,  p.  89. 


3"o 


MIR /.A  PUR   DISTRICT 


An  interesting  inscription  of  Lakhana  Deva  of  Kanauj,  dated  in 
1 196,  was  dug  up  near  Ahraura.  The  most  striking  memorials 
of  Muhammadan  rule  occur  in  the  great  fort  of  Chunar,  and  the 
remains  of  ruined  castles  exist  at  various  places  on  the  Kaimurs. 

Mirzapur  contains  7  towns  and  4,257  villages.  Population  increased 
from  1872  to  1891,  but  the  famine  of  1896-7  caused  a  decrease  in  the 
next  decade.  The  numbers  at  the  four  enumerations 
were  as  follows:  (1872)  1,015,826,  (1881)  1,136,796, 
(1891)  1,161,508,  and  (1901)  1,082,430.  There  are  five  tahsl Is — Mirza- 
pur, Chunar,  Robertsganj,  Korh,  and  Chakia — each  named  from 
its  head-quarters.  The  principal  towns  are  the  municipality  of  Mirza- 
pur, the  District  head-quarters,  which  includes  Bindhachal,  and  the 
'notified  area'  of  Chunar.  The  following  table  gives  the  chief 
statistics  of  population  in   1901  : — 


7'ahsil. 

Mirzapur 

Chunar 

Robcrtsganj 

Koih 

Chakia 

District  total 

Area  in  square 
miles. 

Number  of 

Population. 

Population  prr 
square  mile. 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 
population  be- 
tween 1891 
and  1901. 

Number  of 

persons  able  to 

read  and 

write. 

% 

c 
H 

2 
2 
2 
I 

i 

> 

1,185 
562 

2,621 
296 

474 

5>23S 

964 

580 

1,222 

1,076 

4'5 

332,34° 
176,532 
221,717 
285,240 
66,601 

1,082,430 

281 

3H 

85 
720 

I4I 

-  IO.7 

-  4-9 

-  8.3 

-  2-1 

-  6.1 

14-986 

7-6i5 
4,408 
9,662 
2,054 

7 

4.257 

207 

-    6  8 

38.725 

Of  the  total  population,  93  per  cent,  are  Hindus,  and  nearly 
7  per  cent.  Musalmans.  North  of  the  Ganges  the  density  of  popu- 
lation is  very  high  ;  but  the  large  area  of  jungle  and  rock  in  the 
centre  and  south  of  the  District  reduces  the  density  elsewhere, 
and  the  Robertsganj  tahsl/  is  one  of  the  most  thinly  populated 
tracts  in  the  Provinces.  The  boundary  between  the  tracts  where 
Eastern  Hindi  and  Bihari  are  spoken  passes  through  the  north  of 
the  District  ;  but  Eastern  Hindi  is  the  prevailing  speech  south  of  the 
Son.  Bihari  is  spoken  by  about  63  per  cent,  of  the  population, 
and  Eastern  Hindi  by  36  per  cent.  The  aboriginal  tribes  have 
largely  given  up  their  own  tongues. 

The  principal  Hindu  castes  are:  Brahmans,  153,000:  Chamars 
(leather-workers  and  cultivators),  134,000;  Ahirs  (graziers),  102,000  : 
Kurmis  (agriculturists),  64,000  ;  Rajputs,  42,000  :  Kewats  (cultivators), 
40,000 ;  and  Koirls  (cultivators),  40,000.  The  District  also  contains 
a  number  of  aboriginal  tribes  similar  to  those  of  Chota  Nagpur  and 
Central  India,  the  most  important  of  which  are  the  Kols,  27,000: 
Majh.w5.rs,  21,000;  Kharwars,  15,000;  Bayars,  12,000;  and  Cherus, 
6,000.     These    are    rapidly  becoming    Hinduized.     Among    Muham- 


AGRICULTURE  37 1 

madans  the  largest  tribes  and  castes  are:  Julahas  (weavers),  20,000: 
Shaikhs,  13,000  ;  Behnas  (cotton-carders),  9,000  ;  and  Pathans,  7,000. 
The  high  proportion  of  71  per  cent,  of  the  total  population  are  sup- 
ported by  agriculture,  and  only  4  per  cent,  by  general  labour. 

Out  of  413  native  Christians  in  1901,  Congregationalists  numbered 
254  and  members  of  the  Anglican  communion  93.  The  London 
Mission  commenced  work  at  Mirzapur  in  1837  and  at  Dudhi  in  1862. 
In  1897  a  hospital  and  dispensary  were  founded  at  Kachhwa.  The 
Church  Missionary  Society  has  a  small  branch  at  Chunar. 

The    soils    and    consequently    the    agricultural    conditions    of    the 

District    present   many  diversities.     In   the  Gangetic  plain   the   usual 

loam   and    sandy   and    clayey    soils   are    found,   the  . 

J     ,  J  J     .    ,  .  '  Agriculture, 

first  variety  preponderating  ;  and  this  area  produces 

the  ordinary  crops — rice,  gram,  wheat,  barley,  and   the  millets.     On 

the  Vindhyan   plateau  the  soil  is  a  stiff  and  shallow  red  clay,  giving 

only    scanty   crops,  with    generally    two    fallows    intervening.     Kodon, 

a  small  millet,  is  the  chief  crop  grown   here.     A  remarkable  strip  of 

fertile   country,   however,   stretches    across   the    District   between    the 

Belan  and  the  base  of  the  Kaimurs.     The  western  portion,  like  the 

rest  of  the  plateau,  suffers  from  the  lack  of  facilities  for  irrigation  ; 

but  in  the  east  the  spring-level  rises,  and  large  quantities  of  rice  are 

grown,  while  even  sugar-cane  and  poppy  succeed.     The  broad  valley 

of  the  Son  has  a  light  sandy  soil.     In  the  tract  south  of  this  river 

cultivation  is  practically  confined  to  four  places — the  Son,  Kon,  Dudhi, 

and    Singrauli    valleys.      Rice,  kodon    and    other    millets,  wheat,  and 

oilseeds  are  the    principal  crops  grown   here.     Cultivation    is    largely 

fluctuating ;   and,  excluding   fields   round   the   homesteads,  lands  are 

only  cultivated  once  in  three  years.     The  custom  of  firing  the  jungle 

borders  to  obtain  fertile  land  is  still  practised. 

The  tahslls  of  Korh  and  Chakia.  form  part  of  the  Benares  Estate, 
and  the  former  includes  a  number  of  villages  owned  by  sub-proprietors 
called  manzuriddrs  or  mukarrarlddrs.  Excluding  a  few  large  estates 
held  by  single  persons,  in  some  of  which  sub-proprietary  rights  exist, 
and  the  Dudhi pargana,  the  prevailing  tenure  is  the  ordinary  pattlddri. 
The  Dudhi  pargana  is  almost  entirely  managed  as  a  Government 
estate,  and  proprietary  rights  exist  only  in  a  small  portion.  The  main 
agricultural  statistics  for  1903-4  are  given  in  the  table  on  the  next 
page,  in  square  miles. 

The  principal  food-crops,  with  their  areas  in  the  same  year,  were — 
rice  (163  square  miles),  gram  (169),  kodon  (161),  wheat  (113),  and  barley 
(109).  Bdjra,  Jowar,  and  maize  are  also  grown.  Oilseeds  (grown  on 
118  square  miles),  sugar-cane  (10),  and  poppy  (3),  are  of  some  impor- 
tance. 

The  system  of  crop  records  has  only  recently  been  introduced  into 


372 


MIRZAPUR    DISTRICT 


the  permanently  settled  Districts,  and  it  is  impossible  to  say  whether 
cultivation  is  progressing  or  not,  and  what  changes  are  taking  place 
in  agricultural  methods.  The  changes,  if  any,  have  not  been  sufficiently 
important  to  attract  attention.  Advances  are  rarely  made  under  the 
Land  Improvement  Loans  Act,  and  only  small  amounts  have  been  lent 
under  the  Agriculturists'  Loans  Act,  amounting  to  Rs.  82,000  during 
the  ten  years  ending  1900,  of  which  Rs.  51,000  was  advanced  in  1896   7. 


Tahsil. 

Mirzapur 
Chunar 
Robertsganj  . 
Korh    . 
Chakia 

Total 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated. 

Cultivable 
waste. 

I.185 

562 
2,621 

396 

474  + 

429 
242 

255* 

250 

109 

45 
36 
27* 
112 

27 

413 
153 

225* 

38 
24 

5,238 

1,285 

247 

853 

*  These  figures  exclude  the  unsurveyed  area  south  of  the  Son. 
t  Agricultural  statistics  available  for  only  160  square  miles. 

The  cattle  bred  locally  are  very  inferior  ;  and  animals  are  imported 
from  Bihiir  for  the  plough,  from  the  Districts  north  of  the  Gogra  for 
other  agricultural  work,  and  from  Surguja  for  use  as  pack-animals. 
The  buffaloes  of  the  District  are  of  a  better  stamp,  and  supply  milk 
and  are  used  for  hauling  stone.  Ponies  are  also  very  inferior.  Sheep 
and  goats  are  largely  kept,  but  no  particular  breeds  are  recognized. 

Excluding  the  Benares  Domains,  108  square  miles  were  irrigated 
in  1903-4,  of  which  55  were  irrigated  from  wells,  31  from  tanks  or 
jhl/s,  and  22  from  other  sources.  The  Gangetic  valley  is  supplied 
chiefly  by  wells  and  jhlls.  On  the  plateau  wells  are  almost  unknown, 
except  in  the  fertile  strip  below  the  Kaimurs.  Tanks  and  embank- 
ments are  the  usual  means  for  the  storage  and  supply  of  water  here, 
and  are  extensively  used  for  rice  cultivation.  The  artificial  lakes  at 
Karsota  on  the  plateau  and  at  Gaharwargaon  south  of  the  Son  are  the 
most  important  of  these  works.  South  of  the  Son  the  number  of 
embankments  approaches  900,  but  increased  facilities  for  water-supply 
are  still  needed.  The  rivers  are  rarely  used  for  irrigation  ;  and  there 
is  only  one  small  canal,  made  about  1820  by  the  Raja  of  Benares, 
which  supplies  water  from  the  Chandraprabha. 

The  most  important  mineral  product  is  building  stone,  which  is 
largely  quarried  in  the  north  of  the  District,  and  exported  as  far  as 
Calcutta.  Millstones,  curry-stones,  boundary  pillars,  and  fencing  posts 
are  also  made.  The  quarries  are  Government  property  and  a  royalty 
is  levied,  which  yields  about  1  lakh  annually.  Iron  ore  is  found  in 
places,  and  a  little  is  worked  by  the  aboriginal  tribes  for  local  use. 
Coal  was  formerly  extracted  south  of  the  Son  and  carried  on  pack- 
bullocks   to  the  river   steamers  at  Mirzapur,  and  as  recently  as  1896 


FAMINE  373 

an  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  to  work  it  again.     Mica  and  iron 
pyrites  are  also  found,  but  are  not  used. 

The  District  generally  has  few  arts  or  industries,  excluding  those 
of  the  city  of  Mirzapur.     Cane  sugar  is  produced  north  of  the  Ganges, 
and  palm  sugar  near  Chunar.     Iron  vessels  are  made 
at    Kachhwa,    lacquered    wooden    toys    at    Ahraura,  communicati0ns. 
and  an  inferior  art  pottery  at  Chunar.     The  manu- 
facture of  indigo  and   weaving  of  tasar  silk,  which  were  formerly  of 
some  importance,  have  dwindled   considerably ;   but   the  silkworm  is 
still  bred,  and  wild  silk  is  also  collected.     South  of  the  Son  catechu 
is  extracted  in  most  villages.     Mirzapur  city  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant centres  of  brass   manufactures  in   the  United  Provinces.     It 
also  contains  large  industries  turning  out  shellac,  lac-dye,  and  woollen 
carpets,  besides  a  cotton-spinning  mill. 

The  District  exports  stone,  shellac,  catechu,  and  other  jungle 
produce,  carpets,  brass  and  iron  utensils,  grain,  ghl,  oilseeds,  spices 
(chiefly  betel-nuts),  and  raw  silk ;  and  imports  brass,  iron  and  copper, 
salt,  cotton,  and  piece-goods.  The  chief  channel  for  trade  is  now  the 
railway,  the  Ganges  being  little  used,  except  for  the  carriage  of  stone 
and  fuel.  Trade  between  the  north  and  south  of  the  District  is  carried 
entirely  on  pack-Bullocks,  and  is  decreasing  owing  to  the  establishment 
of  markets  outside  the  border.  Mirzapur,  Kachhwa,  and  Ahraura 
are  the  chief  trading  centres,  while  Chunar  railway  station  is  an 
important  place  for  the  export  of  stone. 

The  main  line  of  the  East  Indian  Railway  passes  through  the 
District  a  little  distance  south  of  the  Ganges,  and  the  Oudh  and 
Rohilkhand  crosses  the  extreme  north.  There  are  1,025  miles  of 
road,  of  which  148  are  metalled.  The  latter  are  maintained  by  the 
Public  Works  department,  but  the  cost  of  all  but  69  miles  is  met  from 
Local  funds.  The  main  lines  are  the  grand  trunk  road  north  of  the 
Ganges,  with  branches  from  Mirzapur  city  to  several  points  on  it  ; 
the  great  Deccan  road ;  the  road  from  Mirzapur  to  Jaunpur ;  and  the 
roads  from  Mirzapur  and  Chunar  to  the  south  of  the  District.  Avenues 
of  trees  are  maintained  on  123  miles. 

Local   tradition  tells  of  serious  suffering  in   the  northern   parts  of 

Mirzapur  during  the  great  famine  of  1783  ;  but  the  District  has  usually 

escaped  the  worst  degrees  of  famine.     In  1864  and 

or       ,  •  1  r   .1        •  Famine. 

1865  the   rains  were    scanty  and    most    of    the  rice 

crop  perished,  and  revenue  was   freely  suspended.     In  1S6S   drought 

again  caused  distress,  which    deepened  into   famine  in   the  southern 

part,  though  rain  in  September  saved  some  of  the  late  crops.     Relief 

works  were  opened  early  in  1S69,  and  provided  work  for  all  who  came  ; 

but  the  forest  tribes  remained  in  their  jungles,  living  on  forest  produce. 

A  series  of  bad  seasons  caused  distress  in  1S73,  when  nearly  44.000 


374  MIRZAPUR  district 

head  of  cattle  were  lost  owing  to  the  failure  of  fodder  and  water,  and 
small  relief  works  were  necessary.  The  great  scarcity  of  1877-8  was 
only  slightly  felt  in  this  District.  In  1896,  however,  the  rainfall  was 
short  for  the  second  year  in  succession,  and  the  late  rice  and  the 
following  spring  crops  were  lost.  The  Vindhyan  plateau  and  the 
tract  south  of  the  Son  suffered  most  severely  ;  but  some  distress 
was  also  felt  in  the  area  between  the  Ganges  and  the  plateau.  North 
of  the  river  high  prices  were  the  only  inconvenience  to  the  people. 
By  June,  1897,  there  were  48,000  persons  on  relief  works  and  23,000 
in  poorhouses  or  receiving  gratuitous  relief.  The  Maharaja  of  Benares 
spent  i-8  lakhs  on  relief  in  his  estates. 

The  Collector  is  usually  assisted  by  a  member  of  the  Indian  Civil 

Service,   and    by    three    Deputy-Collectors    recruited    in    India.     The 

Deputy-Superintendent    of  the    Family   Domains  of 

Administration.    ^  Maharajg  of  Benares  (see  Benares  Estate)  has 

his  head-quarters  at  Mirzapur,  a  tahstlddr  is  stationed  at  the  head- 
quarters of  each  tahsil,  ami  there  are  two  officers  of  the  Opium 
department  in  the  District. 

Civil  justice  is  in  the  hands  of  a  Munsif,  a  Sub-Judge,  and  the 
District  Judge,  the  latter  being  also  Sessions  Judge.  In  the  two  tahslh 
of  the  Benares  Estate  all  civil  cases  which  are  in  any  way  connected 
with  land,  and  all  rent  and  revenue  cases,  are  tried  by  the  Maharaja's 
courts  with  an  appeal  to  the  Deputy-Superintendent.  The  tract  south 
of  the  Son  is  a  separate  non-regulation  area,  in  which  the  tahsildar  of 
Robertsganj  and  the  Collector  and  his  Assistants  have  civil  powers. 
Crime  is  light,  especially  in  the  jungle  tracts. 

Up  to  1830  Mirzapur  formed  part  of  Benares  District,  and  most 
of  it  was  thus  permanently  settled  by  1795.  A  survey  was  carried  out 
between  1839  and  1841,  which  was  followed  by  the  preparation  of 
a  record-of-rights.  The  District  was  again  surveyed  between  1879  and 
1882  ;  and  the  old  record-of-rights,  which  had  been  of  an  imperfect 
nature  and  had  never  been  corrected,  was  thoroughly  revised  for  the 
area  included  in  the  Gangetic  valley.  In  the  two  tahslh  belonging  to 
the  Benares  Estate  the  Maharaja  makes  his  own  settlement  with  the 
subordinate  proprietors.  The  Dudhi  pargana  was  for  many  years 
entirely  overlooked  by  the  British  administrators,  and  it  thus  escaped 
the  permanent  settlement.  The  Raja  of  Singrauli  usurped  the  whole 
pargana,  and  complaints  against  his  misgovernment  led  to  its  inspec- 
tion in  1847.  A  formal  inquiry  was  held,  and  it  was  declared  to  be 
the  property  of  Government.  A  settlement  was  made  in  1849-56, 
which  was  revised  in  1871-5,  1886-7,  and  1897-8.  Proprietary  rights 
in  this  pargana  do  not  exist  except  in  Zappa  Gonda  Bajia,  and  the 
assessment  is  based  on  the  number  of  ploughs  maintained  by  the 
cultivators.     The  area  estimated   to  be  cultivated   by  each   plough   is 


ADMINIS  TR.  I  TIOX  3  7  5 

fixed,  and  the  rates  per  plough  vary  in  different  villages.  The  village 
headmen  or  sapurdars  receive  concessions  for  their  own  cultivation, 
and  also  a  percentage  on  collections. 

The  collections  on  account  of  land  revenue  and  revenue  from   all 
sources  have  been,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1880-1. 

1890-1.          1900-1. 

1903-4. 

Land  revenue     .         .         8,56 
Total  revenue     .         .         1 1 , 7  * 

8,86            9.65 
14,90          16.28 

8,44 
i6;70 

The  towns  include  one  municipality,  Mirzaptjr,  one  'notified  area,' 
Chunar,  and  four  places  administered  under  Act  XX  of  1856.  Be- 
yond the  limits  of  these  the  District  board  administers  local  affairs.  In 
1903-4  the  board  had  an  income  of  1-2  lakhs,  chiefly  derived  from 
local  rates,  a  contribution  from  Provincial  revenues,  and  ferries ;  while 
the  expenditure  was  1-3  lakhs,  including  Rs.  55,000  spent  on  roads 
and  buildings. 

The  District  Superintendent  of  police  has  a  force  of  4  inspectors, 
101  subordinate  officers,  and  1,446  constables,  distributed  in  26  police 
stations,  besides  195  municipal  and  town  police,  and  1,500  rural  and 
road  police.  In  1903  the  District  jail  contained  a  daily  average  of 
230  prisoners.  The  Provincial  reformatory  is  now  located  in  the  fort 
at  Chunar. 

Mirzapur  District  takes  a  fairly  high  place  as  regards  the  literacy 
of  its  population,  of  whom  3-6  per  cent.  (7  males  and  0-3  females)  could 
read  and  write  in  1901.  The  number  of  public  schools  rose  from  144 
with  4,724  pupils  in  1 880-1  to  231  with  9.334  pupils  in  1900-1.  In 
1903-4  there  were  197  such  schools  with  7,914  pupils,  including  291 
girls,  besides  55  private  schools  with  1,560  pupils,  of  whom  168  were 
girls.  Only  1,941  pupils  in  both  descriptions  of  schools  were  receiving 
secondary  education.  Four  of  the  public  schools  are  managed  by 
Government  and  115  by  the  District  or  municipal  boards.  Out  ol 
a  total  expenditure  on  education  in  1903-4  of  Rs.  91,000,  Local  funds 
supplied  Rs.  47,000,  and  fees  Rs.  8,000. 

There  are  n  hospitals  and  dispensaries,  with  accommodation  lor 
75  in-patients.  In  1903  the  number  of  cases  treated  was  102,000, 
including  1,200  in-patients,  and  7,800  operations  were  performed. 
The  total  expenditure  was  Rs.  24,000,  chiefly  met  from  Local  funds. 

About  34,000  persons  were  successfully  vaccinated  in  1903-4,  repre- 
senting a  proportion  of  31  per  1,000  of  population.  Vaccination  is 
compulsory  only  in  the  municipality. 

[A.  Shakespear,  Selections  from  the  Duncan  Records  (Benares,  1873)  ; 
District  Gazetteer  (1883,  under  revision);  G.  Dale,  Revision  of  Records 
in   the    Gangetic    Valley,  Mirzapur  District  (1887) ;    W.   Crooke   and 


376  MIRZAPUR   DISTRICT 

G.  R.  Dampier,  A  Note  on  the  Tract  of  Country  south  of  the  River  Son, 
Mirzapur  District  (1894).] 

Mirzapur  Tahsil.  —Western  tahsil  of  Mirzapur  District,  United 
Provinces,  comprising  the  tappas  of  Upraudh,  Chaurasi,  Chhiyanve, 
and  Kon  of  pargana  Kantit,  and  taluka  Majhwa  of  pargana  Kaswar, 
and  lying  between  240  36'  and  250  17'  X.  and  820  7'  and  S20  50'  E., 
with  an  area  of  1,185  square  miles.  Population  fell  from  372,015  in 
1 89 1  to  332,340  in  1901,  the  rate  of  decrease  being  the  highest  in  the 
District.  There  are  964  villages  and  two  towns,  including  Mirzapur 
(population,  79,862),  the  District  and  tahsil  head-quarters.  The 
demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  3,21,000,  and  for  cesses 
Rs.  68,000.  The  density  of  population,  28 1  persons  per  square  mile, 
is  above  the  District  average.  Most  of  the  tahsil  is  situated  south 
of  the  Ganges,  which  forms  part  of  the  northern  boundary  and  then 
cuts  off  a  small  portion  on  the  north.  The  greater  part  of  it  is  thus 
situated  on  the  Vindhyan  plateau,  the  southern  portion  of  which  is 
drained  by  the  Belan.  In  the  extreme  south-west  the  Kaimur  hills 
rise  abruptly  from  the  plateau.  The  area  under  cultivation  in  1903-4 
was  429  square  miles,  of  which  45  were  irrigated.  Wells  are  the 
chief  source  of  supply. 

Mirzapur  City.  Head-quarters  of  Mirzapur  District,  United  Pro- 
vinces, situated  in  25°  9'  X.  and  820  35'  E.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Ganges,  and  on  the  East  Indian  Railway,  509  miles  from  Calcutta  and 
891  from  Bombay,  and  connected  by  short  branches  with  the  grand 
trunk  road.  The  population  (including  Bindhachal)  has  fluctuated 
considerably.  The  numbers  at  the  four  enumerations  were  as  follows  : 
(1872)  67,274,  (1881)  85,362,  (1891)  84,130,  and  (1901)  79,862. 

The  earliest  mention  of  Mirzapur  is  by  Tieffenthaler  between  1760 
and  1770,  who  refers  to  it  as  a  mart  on  the  Ganges.  Its  importance 
increased  rapidly  towards  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century,  and 
during  the  first  half  of  the  nineteenth  century  it  was  the  most  important 
trading  centre  in  Upper  India.  Although  the  District  was  not  separated 
from  Benares  till  1830,  the  town  became  the  head-quarters  of  a  Judge- 
Magistrate  as  early  as  1788,  and  contained  an  important  custom-house. 
The  cotton  of  the  Deccan  and  Central  India  was  brought  here  on  pack- 
bullocks  and  the  grain  of  the  Doab  in  country  boats,  to  be  conveyed  by 
river  to  Calcutta;  while  sugar,  piece-goods,  and  metals  were  carried 
up  stream  for  distribution.  As  the  trade  of  the  place  depended  largely 
on  its  position  at  the  highest  point  on  the  Ganges  reached  by  large 
steamers,  the  opening  of  the  East  Indian  Railway  as  far  as  the  Jumna 
opposite  Allahabad  in  1864  marked  the  first  step  in  its  decline.  The 
town  has  a  handsome  riverfront  lined  with  stone  ghats  or  landing- 
places,  and  possesses  numerous  mosques,  temples,  and  dwelling-houses 
of  the  wealthier  merchants,  with  highly  decorated   facades  and  richly 


MISHMI  HILLS  377 

carved  balconies  and   door  frames.     The  civil  station  stretches   east- 
wards along  the  river.     It  is  the  head-quarters  of  the   usual   District 
staff,  of  the  Deputy-Superintendent  of  the  Family  Domains  (Bexarl- 
Estate),  of  two    Opium    officers,  and  also  of  the   London    Mission. 
There  are  male  and  female  hospitals  and  a  town  hall,  besides  the  usual 
public  offices.     Mirzapur  has  been  a  municipality  since  1867.     During 
the  ten  years  ending  190 1  the  income  and  expenditure  averaged  about 
Rs.  62,000.     In  1903-4  the   income   was   Rs.  83,000,  chiefly  derived 
from  octroi  (Rs.  69,000) ;  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  67,000,  including 
conservancy  (Rs.    19,000),  public    safety  (Rs.   12,000),   administration 
and  collection  (Rs.  1 1,000),  and  public  works  (Rs.  10,000).     A  drainage 
scheme  to  cost  32  lakhs  has  recently  been   undertaken.     The  small 
town  of  Bindhachal,  a  few  miles  south-west  of  the  city,  is   included 
within   municipal   limits.     It   contains    the   celebrated    shrine   of  Yin- 
dhyeshwarl  or  Yindhyabasini,  which  is  annually  visited  by  large  crowds 
of  pilgrims  from  Central  and   Southern   India.     In   former  years   the 
goddess  was    especially  venerated    by   the  Thags.     Close  to   Bindha- 
chal are  found  extensive  ruins  believed   to  be  those  of   Pampapura, 
the   ancient    city  of   the    Bhars.     Bindhachal    contains   a    dispensary. 
While  Mirzapur  no  longer  holds  its  former  importance  as  a  centre  of 
commerce,  it  still  absorbs  the  greater  part  of  the  trade  of  the  District. 
It  is  also  the  seat  of  the  largest  brass  industry  in  the  United  Provinces, 
as  far  as  the  production  of  domestic  vessels  is  concerned.     There  are 
eighty  factories  for  the  preparation  of  shellac  from  stick-lac  found  in  the 
jungles  of  the  south  of  the  District  or  imported,  which  give  employment 
to   about  4,000   workmen.     Mirzapur    is    celebrated   for   the    woollen 
carpets  produced  here,  and  six  of  the  largest  factories  employ  700  to 
Soo   hands.     There    is   also  a  cotton-spinning    mill,  which    employed 
560  workers  in  1903.     The  principal  schools  are  the  ordinary  District 
and    town    schools,   and   a    school    and  orphanage    supported    by   the 
London  Mission;  the  municipality  maintains  six  and  aids  fifteen  other 
schools,  attended  by  881  pupils. 

Mishmi  Hills.  —A  section  of  the  mountain  ranges  on  the  northern 
frontier  of  Assam,  which  shut  in  the  eastern  end  of  the  valley  of  the 
Brahmaputra,  between  the  Dibang  and  the  Brahmaputra.  These  hills 
are  occupied  by  the  Mishmi  tribe,  and  have  never  been  properly 
explored.  They  consist,  as  far  as  is  known,  of  steep  ridges,  covered 
as  a  rule  with  tree  forest,  and  some  of  the  peaks  are  over  15,000  feet 
in  height.  Geologically,  these  hills  seem  to  be  a  continuation  of  the 
Burmese  axials.  The  higher  ranges  are  probably  composed  of  gneiss 
and  granite,  and  there  are  reasons  for  supposing  that  they  may  contain 
deposits  of  economic  value.  Limestone  boulders  are  found  in  the 
beds  of  the  rivers  issuing  from  them. 

The  Mishmis  are  divided  into  four  tribes:  the  Chulikatta  or  'crop- 


37§  MISHMI  HILLS 

haired,'  the  Bebejiya,  the  Digaru,  and  the  Migu  or  Midhi.  They  are 
a  short,  sturdy  race  of  the  Tibeto-Burman  stock,  with  features  of  a 
Mongolian  type.  They  are  keen  traders  and  devoted  to  a  pastoral 
rather  than  to  an  agricultural  life,  cattle  and  wives  being  the  chief 
outward  sign  of  wealth.  The  first  expedition  into  the  Mishmi  country 
was  in  1827,  and  further  attempts  were  made  in  1836  and  1845  I  out 
none  of  the  explorers  succeeded  in  getting  more  than  three-quarters 
of  the  way  to  Rima,  the  frontier  town  of  Tibet.  In  1851  M.  Krick, 
a  French  missionary,  reached  that  place  and  returned  in  safety  to 
Assam  ;  but  on  his  revisiting  the  country  in  1854  he  was  treacherously 
murdered  by  a  Mishmi  chief.  The  offender  was  captured  and  taken 
to  Dibrugarh,  where  he  was  duly  convicted  and  hanged  :  and  attempts 
were  again  made  in  1869  and  1879  to  reach  the  valley  of  the  Zayul,  as 
the  eastern  arm  of  the  Brahmaputra  is  called,  but  they  were  unsuc- 
cessful. In  the  cold  season  of  1885-6,  Mr.  Xeedham  and  Captain 
Molesworth  marched  from  Sadiya  to  Rima,  but  were  prevented  from 
going  beyond  that  place  by  the  obstructive  attitude  of  the  Tibetan 
authorities.  The  path  followed  ran  along  the  north  bank  of  the 
Brahmaputra,  the  total  distance  traversed  being  187  miles.  For  the 
first  46  miles  it  lies  entirely  in  the  plains,  and  for  this  portion  of 
the  journey  elephants  can  be  used  for  transport.  From  thence  to  the 
Tibetan  border,  26  miles  west  of  Rima,  travelling  is  somewhat  difficult. 
The  track  is  rugged  and  uneven,  and  crosses  ranges  of  hills  varying 
from  1,000  to  3,500  feet  in  height;  but  these  difficulties  disappear  on 
entering  the  Zayul  valley.  The  upper  portion  of  this  valley  was  described 
by  M.  Krick  as  a  tract  cultivated  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see,  and 
abounding  in  herds  of  oxen,  asses,  horses,  and  mules,  and  in  groves 
of  bamboo,  laurel,  orange,  citron,  and  peach  trees.  Pandit  A.  K.,  who 
entered  the  valley  from  the  east,  described  the  winter  crops  as  rice, 
millets,  and  pulses,  while  wheat,  barley,  and  mustard  ripened  in  the 
spring.  The  Mishmis  do  a  good  deal  of  trade  both  with  the  Zayul 
valley  and  with  Assam.  They  receive  from  the  Tibetans  cattle, 
woollen  coats,  swords,  metal  vessels,  and  other  articles,  and  give  them 
in  exchange  Mishmi  teeta  (a  plant  much  valued  as  a  febrifuge),  musk, 
and  Mishmi  poison. 

In  1899  the  Bebejiya  Mishmis  murdered  three  Khamti  British 
subjects  and  carried  off  three  children.  An  expedition  was  dis- 
patched against  them  in  the  following  cold  season,  which,  after  a 
tedious  and  difficult  march,  succeeded  in  recovering  the  captives  and 
burning  the  guilty  villages.  The  Bebejiya  country  lies  to  the  east 
of  the  Dibang  river,  and  was  entered  by  the  Maizu  pass,  which  is 
8,900  feet  above  sea-level. 

[An  account  of  the  Mishmis  will  be  found  in  Colonel  Dalton's 
Ethnology  of  Bengal.  \ 


MITHT   TOWN  379 

Misrikh. — Western  tahsll  of  Sitapur  District,  United  Provinces, 
comprising  the  parganas  of  Aurangabad,  Chandra,  Korauna,  Gundla- 
mau,  Machhrehta,  Misrikh,  and  Maholl,  and  lying  between  270  12' 
and  2  70  49/  N.  and  8o°  18'  and  8o°  50'  E.,  along  the  GuratT,  with 
an  area  of  613  square  miles.  The  Kathna  traverses  the  north-west 
of  the  tahsil,  and  the  Sarayan  forms  part  of  the  eastern  boundary. 
Population  increased  from  243,207  in  1891  to  267,440  in  1901. 
There  are  649  villages  and  three  towns,  including  Misrikh  (popula- 
tion, 2,966),  the  tahsll  head-quarters.  The  demand  for  land  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  3,88,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  66,000.  The  density 
of  population  is  only  436  persons  per  square  mile,  a  figure  much 
below  the  District  average.  Along  the  Gumtl  is  found  a  considerable 
area  of  light  sandy  soil,  which  is  liable  to  fall  out  of  cultivation  in 
years  of  either  excessive  or  deficient  rainfall.  The  rest  of  the  tahsll 
is  composed  chiefly  of  good  loam.  In  1903-4  the  area  under  cultiva- 
tion was  432  square  miles,  of  which  94  were  irrigated.  Wells  supply 
rather  more  than  half  the  irrigated  area,  and  tanks  most  of  the 
remainder. 

Mithankot. — Town  in  the  Rajanpur  tahsll  of  Dera  Ghazi  Khan 
District,  Punjab,  situated  in  2 8°  57'  N.  and  700  22'  E.,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Indus,  83  miles  from  Dera  Ghazi  Khan  town,  and  a  few 
miles  below  the  confluence  of  the  Panjnad  and  Indus.  Population 
(1901),  3,487.  The  town  was  once  the  centre  of  a  large  trade,  and 
head-quarters  of  what  is  now  the  Rajanpur  subdivision ;  but  the 
station  was  abandoned  in  1862,  when  the  old  town  was  destroyed  by 
an  encroachment  of  the  Indus.  The  new  town  was  built  5  miles 
from  the  river,  but,  being  so  far  away,  speedily  lost  the  commercial 
importance  of  its  predecessor.  The  municipality  was  created  in  1873. 
The  income  during  the  ten  years  ending  1902-3  averaged  Rs.  3,300, 
and  the  expenditure  Rs.  3,500.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  3,800, 
chiefly  from  octroi ;  and  the  expenditure  was  Rs.  3,500. 

Mithi  Taluka. —  Taluka  of  Thar  and  Parkar  District,  Sind,  Bom- 
bay, lying  between  240  17'  and  240  57'  N.  and  690  30'  and  700  34'  E., 
with  an  area  of  1,563  square  miles.  The  population  fell  from  36,445 
in  1891  to  26,154  in  1901.  The  taluka  contains  one  town,  Mithi 
(population,  2,806),  the  head-quarters ;  and  46  villages.  The  density, 
17  persons  per  square  mile,  is  below  the  District  average.  The  land 
revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  26,000.  Cultivation 
depends  upon  rainfall,  and  to  a  small  extent  upon  well-irrigation,  the 
principal  crop  being  bajra.     The  taluka  is  liable  to  famine. 

Mithi  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  taluka  of  the  same  name  in 
Thar  and  Parkar  District,  Sind,  Bombay,  situated  in  240  44'  N.  and 
690  51/  E.,  about  60  miles  south  of  Umarkot.  Population  (1901), 
2,806.     The  trade,  both  local  and  transit,   consists  of  grain,  cotton, 

vol.  xvii.  B  b 


380  MITHI   TOWN 

rattle,  camels,  ghi,  dyes,  hides,  oil,  piece-goods,  sugar,  tobacco,  and 
wool.  The  town  was  constituted  a  municipality  in  i860,  and  had 
an  average  income  of  about  Rs.  4,000  during  the  decade  ending  1901. 
In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  10,000.  The  municipality  was  abolished 
in  1905.  The  town  contains  two  primary  schools,  one  for  boys  and 
the  other  for  girls,  attended  respectively  by  143  and  93  pupils. 

Mithila  (or  Videha).— Ancient  kingdom  in  North  Bihar,  Bengal. 
It  included  the  modern  Districts  of  Darbhanga,  Champaran,  and 
North  Muzaffarpur,  and  was  a  great  seat  of  Sanskrit  learning ;  it  is 
mentioned  in  the  Satapatha  Brahmana.  The  capital  was  at  Janak- 
pur,  in  Nepal ;  and  the  boundary  seems  at  one  time  to  have  extended 
as  far  east  as  the  Kosi  river,  so  that  the  kingdom  included,  besides 
the  Districts  above  named,  parts  of  Purnea,  Monghyr,  and  Bhagal- 
pur.  According  to  tradition,  the  court  of  king  Janaka  was  attended 
by  philosophers  and  religious  teachers  as  early  as  1000  B.C.  Little 
is  really  known  of  the  early  history  of  Mithila.  In  the  ninth  cen- 
tury a.  d.  it  seems  to  have  been  conquered  by  the  Pal  dynasty  of 
Magadha,  and  it  was  again  subjugated  by  Ballal  Sen  of  Bengal  soon 
after  he  ascended  the  throne  in  a.  d.  1069.  The  Lakshman  era,  which 
he  inaugurated  to  celebrate  the  birth  of  his  son,  is  in  use  by  the 
pandits  of  Mithila  to  this  day.  Mithila  was  conquered  by  Muham- 
mad-i-Bakhtyar  Khilji  in  1203,  but  from  the  middle  of  the  fourteenth 
century  it  was  for  200  years  under  the  rule  of  a  line  of  Brahmans 
given  up  to  learning  and  poetry.  The  best  known  of  this  line  was 
Siva  Singh,  who  reigned  for  four  years  from  1446,  In  1556  Mithila 
became  merged  in  the  Mughal  empire.  Mithila  has  given  its  name 
to  one  of  the  five  classes  of  Northern  Brahmans,  the  Maithilas,  whose 
recognized  head  is  the  Maharaja  of  Darbhanga. 

Miyagam. — Village  in  the  Choranda  taluka,  Baroda  prant,  Baroda 
State,  situated  in  220  1/  N.  and  730  7'  E.,  on  the  Bombay,  Baroda, 
and  Central  India  Railway,  at  the  terminus  of  a  State  line  from 
Dabhoi.  Population  (1901),  2,654.  It  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  Jains, 
who  carry  on  a  thriving  trade. 

Mobye. — State  in  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma.    See  Mongpai. 

Modasa. — Town  in  the  Parantij  taluka  of  Ahmadabad  District, 
Bombay,  situated  in  230  i8/  N.  and  730  18'  E.,  on  the  river  Majham, 
52  miles  north-east  of  Ahmadabad  city.  Population  (1901),  7,276. 
Modasa  occupies  an  important  strategical  position  between  Gujarat 
and  the  hilly  tracts  constituting  the  Native  States  of  Idar  and  Dun- 
garpur.  In  the  reign  of  Sultan  Ahmad  of  Gujarat  (141 1-43)  it  was 
a  fortified  post :  and  at  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century  it  was  the 
chief  place  in  a  tract  of  162  villages,  yielding  a  revenue  of  8  lakhs. 
It  is  an  old  town  with  several  inscriptions.  The  chief  industries  are 
dyeing,  calico-printing,  and  oil-pressing.     Maluia  oil  is  exported  for 


MOGALTURRU  381 

soap.  There  is  a  through  camel  traffic  in  raw  cotton  and  opium  with 
Malwa.  Modasa  was  constituted  a  municipality  in  1859.  The  income 
during  the  decade  ending  1901  averaged  about  Rs.  6,ooo,  and  in 
1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  6,800.  The  town  contains  a  dispensary  and 
five  schools,  of  which  one  is  an  English  middle  school  for  boys  with 
22  pupils,  and  four  are  vernacular  schools — namely,  three  for  boys 
with  392  pupils  and  one  for  girls  with  86  pupils. 

Modhera. — Village  in  the  Vadavli  taluka,  Kadi  prant,  Baroda 
State,  situated  in  230  35'  N.  and  720  3'  E.  In  ancient  times  this 
town  must  have  been  very  populous  and  wealthy,  judging  from  the 
ruins  still  to  be  seen.  The  chief  of  these  is  Sita's  Chavdi  or  marriage 
hall,  about  which  Dr.  Burgess  remarks  : — 

'The  Sita's  Chavdi  is  rich  in  carving  beyond  anything  I  have  met 
with  elsewhere.  The  central  dome  is  supported  by  eight  columns  of 
great  elegance  with  toranas  between  each  pair,  outside  of  which  are 
eight  similar  ones.  The  mandapa  is  similar  to  the  central  dome.  The 
proportions  of  the  building  are  beautiful,  as  it  is  not  deficient  in  height.' 

The  temple  is  really  dedicated  to  the  Sun,  and  was  probably  built 
early  in  the  eleventh  century.  Modhera  is  known  in  Jain  legends 
as  Modherpura  or  Modhbank  Patan,  and  it  has  given  its  name  to 
the  Modha  Brahmans  and  the  Modhas. 

Moga  Tahsil.  —  Tahsil  of  Ferozepore  District,  Punjab,  lying 
between  300  8'  and  300  54'  N.  and  740  54"  and  750  26'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  807  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  Patiala, 
and  on  the  west  by  the  Fandkot  State.  It  lies  almost  wholly  in  the 
upland  plateau  known  as  the  Rohi,  which  has  a  good  loam  soil  and 
is  irrigated  by  the  Sirhind  Canal.  The  population  in  1901  was 
245,857,  compared  with  235,806  in  1891.  Moga  Town  (population, 
6,725)  is  the  head-quarters.  The  tahsil  also  contains  202  villages. 
The  land  revenue  and  cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  4-7  lakhs.  The 
village  of  Mahraj  is  of  some  religious  importance. 

Moga  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  tahsil  of  the  same  name  in 
Ferozepore  District,  Punjab,  situated  in  300  49'  N.  and  750  io'  E., 
35  miles  south-east  of  Ferozepore  town  on  the  Ferozepore  road. 
Population  (1901),  6,725.  The  Tayyan  fair  is  held  here  in  the 
month  of  Chet  (March-April).  The  chief  educational  institutions 
are  the  Dev  Samaj  Anglo-vernacular  high  school  (unaided),  and  an 
Anglo-vernacular  middle  school  maintained  by  the  municipality. 
There  is  also  a  Government  dispensary. 

Mogalturru. — Village  in  the  Narasapur  taluk  of  Kistna  District, 
Madras,  situated  in  160  25'  N.  and  81°  36'  E.,  on  the  Narasapur  canal. 
Population  (1901),  6,348.  It  contains  the  fort  of  the  former  zamlndars 
of  Mogalturru,  and  was  the  head-quarters  of  one  of  the  early  Col- 
lectorates.     There  is  a  small  salt  factory  close  by. 

b  b  2 


382  MOGAUNG   SUBDIVISION 

Mogaung  Subdivision.— Subdivision  of  Myitkyina"  District.  Upper 
Burma,  consisting  of  the  Mogaung  and  Kamaing  townships. 

Mogaung  Township.  Western  township  of  Myitkyina  District, 
Upper  Burma,  lying  between  240  42'  and  250  45'  N.  and  960  o'  and 
960  1 6'  E.,  with  an  area  of  3,490  square  miles.  The  population  in 
1901  was  18,867,  Shans  numbering  more  than  8,000  and  Kachins 
more  than  7,000,  while  Burmans  and  Burmese  Shans  to  the  number 
of  2,000  inhabited  Mogaung  itself,  and  some  of  the  larger  river  villages. 
The  township  contains  226  villages,  of  which  172  are  in  the  Kachin 
Hill  tracts.  The  head-quarters  are  at  Mogaung  (population,  2,742),  a 
market  of  importance  situated  on  the  Mogaung  stream  and  the  rail- 
way, about  30  miles  west  of  Myitkyina  town.  Except  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  Mogaung,  the  township  is  a  mass  of  forest-clad 
upland,  and  the  density  of  population  is  very  low.  In  1903-4  the  area 
cultivated  was  6  square  miles,  in  addition  to  taungyas  :  and  the  land 
revenue  and  thaihameda  amounted  to  Rs.  42,000. 

Mogok  Subdivision. — Southern  subdivision  and  township  of  the 
Ruby  Mines  District,  Upper  Burma,  consisting  of  a  mass  of  hills 
broken  up  by  ravines,  lying  between  220  46'  and  230  4.'  N.  and  960  14' 
and  960  43"  E.,  with  an  area  of  610  square  miles.  The  population  was 
18,810  in  1891,  and  24,590  in  1901,  distributed  in  one  town,  Mogok 
(population,  6,078),  the  head-quarters,  and  112  villages.  The  im- 
portance of  the  township  is  derived  from  the  ruby  mines,  which  are 
described  in  the  District  article.  About  10  miles  north-west  of  Mogok 
is  Bernardmyo  (called  after  the  late  Sir  Charles  Bernard),  situated  at 
an  altitude  of  over  5,000  feet  above  the  sea,  where  European  troops 
were  once  quartered.  The  township  contained  about  3,500  acres  under 
cultivation  in  1903-4,  and  the  land  revenue  and  thathameda  in  the 
same  year  amounted  to  Rs.  53,000. 

Mogok  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  Ruby  Mines  District,  Upper 
Burma;  situated  in  220  55'  N.  and  960  30'  E.,  in  hilly  country, 
about  4,000  feet  above  the  sea.  It  lies  36  miles  due  east  of  the 
Irrawaddy,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  road  60  miles  in  length 
leading  to  Thabeikkyin.  Population  (1901),  6,078.  The  town,  which 
occupies  the  middle  of  a  very  picturesque  mountain-girt  valley,  is  the 
head-quarters  of  the  ruby-mining  industry  in  Burma,  and  is  a  thriv- 
ing trade  centre  with  a  large  and  flourishing  masonry  bazar,  which 
brings  in  a  revenue  of  between  Rs.  30,000  and  Rs.  40,000.  A  certain 
amount  of  stone-cutting,  polishing,  and  setting  is  carried  on,  but 
the  work  is  of  a  primitive  character.  Mogok  is  less  a  town  than  a 
collection  of  villages,  and  is  divided  into  nine  quarters.  The  actual 
population  of  the  group  of  villages  that  surrounds  the  District  head- 
quarters, and  owes  its  existence  to  the  Ruby  Mines  Company,  is  about 
15,000.     Mogok  has  not,  despite  its  size,  been  constituted  a  munici- 


MOHANLALGANJ  383 

pality,  nor  has  any  modified  form  of  local  self-government  yet  been 
introduced  into  it.  The  District  fund  benefits  by  the  receipts  from 
the  bazar.  Brick  buildings  are  becoming  common  in  the  town,  and 
frequent  fires  in  the  past  have  popularized  the  use  of  corrugated  iron 
for  roofing  purposes.  The  usual  public  buildings  include  a  hospital, 
and  substantial  residences  have  been  built  for  the  local  officials  and 
for  the  staff  of  the  Ruby  Mines  Company.  A  jail  is  at  present  in 
course  of  construction. 

Mohan  Tahsil. — North-eastern  tahsil  of  Unao  District,  United 
Provinces,  comprising  the  parganas  of  Mohan  Auras,  Gorinda  Parsan- 
dan,  Jhalotar  Ajgain,  and  Asivvan  Rasulabad,  and  lying  between  260  $$' 
and  2  70  1'  N.  and  8o°  25'  and  8o°  55'  E.,  with  an  area  of  436  square 
miles.  Population  fell  from  257,449  in  1891  to  255,389  in  1901. 
There  are  474  villages  and  three  towns,  Asiwan  (population,  6,153) 
and  Mohan  (5,798),  the  former  tahsil  head-quarters,  being  the  largest. 
The  demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  4,27,000,  and  for 
cesses  Rs.  43,000.  The  density  of  population,  586  persons  per  square 
mile,  is  the  highest  in  the  District.  Mohan  is  intersected  by  the  Sai, 
which  flows  sluggishly  through  a  tortuous  channel  and  is  liable  to 
sudden  floods,  though  in  ordinary  years  its  valley  is  very  fertile.  The 
south  and  the  east  of  the  tahsil  are  interspersed  with  barren  patches  of 
usar  and  stretches  of  hard  clay,  which  produce  excellent  rice  crops  in 
favourable  years.  The  north  and  west  consist  of  loam  with  sandy 
ridges,  and  are  generally  fertile.  In  1903-4  the  area  under  cultivation 
was  262  square  miles,  of  which  118  were  irrigated.  Nearly  half  the 
irrigated  area  is  supplied  from  wells,  and  the  remainder  from  the  Sai 
and  from  tanks,  which  are  more  important  sources  here  than  in  any 
other  tahsil  of  Unao. 

Mohan  Town. — Former  head-quarters  of  the  tahsil  of  the  same 
name  in  Unao  District,  United  Provinces,  situated  in  2 6°  47'  N.  and 
8o°  41/  E.,  on  a  metalled  road  from  Ajgain  railway  station.  Population 
(1901),  5,798.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Sai,  which 
is  here  crossed  by  a  fine  stone  bridge  built  by  Maharaja  Nawal  Rai, 
minister  of  the  Nawab  Safdar  Jang.  The  old  road  from  Lucknow  to 
Cawnpore  passes  through  Mohan,  which  was  once  a  place  of  some 
importance.  It  has  always  been  celebrated  for  its  Muhammadan 
physicians  and  mimics  and  actors.  The  town  is  administered  under 
Act  XX  of  1856,  with  an  income  of  about  Rs.  900.  A  good  deal 
of  fruit  is  grown  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  the  town  is  flourishing. 
There  is  a  school  with  150  pupils. 

Mohanlalganj.  —  Southern  tahsil  of  Lucknow  District,  United 
Provinces,  comprising  the  parganas  of  Mohanlalganj  and  Nigohan, 
and  lying  between  260  30'  and  260  51'  N.  and  8o°  5/  and  8i°  13'  E., 
with  an  area  of  273  square  miles.     Population  increased  from   150,160 


3*4  MOHANLALGANJ 

in  1891  to  154,115  in  1901.  There  are  226  villages  and  two  towns, 
the  largest  being  Amethi  (population,  6,447).  ^n  r9°3_4  the  demand 
for  land  revenue  was  Rs.  2,53,000,  and  for  cesses  Rs.  51,000.  The 
density  of  population,  565  persons  per  square  mile,  is  below  the  District 
average.  Mohanlalganj  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Gumtl  and 
on  the  south  by  the  Sai.  The  banks  of  both  rivers  are  sandy ;  but  the 
tahsll  contains  a  large  area  of  fertile  loam,  which  in  the  centre  turns 
to  clay  interspersed  with  many  tanks  and  jhils.  In  1903-4  the  area 
under  cultivation  was  150  square  miles,  of  which  66  were  irrigated. 
Wells  supply  rather  more  than  half  the  irrigated  area,  and  tanks  most 
of  the  remainder. 

Mohanpur. — Petty  State  in  MahI  Kantha,  Bombay. 

Moharbhanj. — Native  State  in  Orissa,  Bengal.     See  Mayurbhanj. 

Mohgaon. — Town  in  the  Sausar  tahsll  of  Chhindwara  District, 
Central  Provinces,  situated  in  210  38'  N.  and  780  45'  E.,  on  a  tributary 
of  the  river  Jam,  37  miles  south  of  Chhindwara  town,  and  5  miles 
from  the  Nagpur  road.  Population  (1901),  5,730.  The  municipality 
has  recently  been  abolished,  and  a  town  fund  is  now  raised  for  purposes 
of  sanitation.  A  cotton-ginning  factory  was  opened  in  1892  with  a 
capital  of  Rs.  50,000,  and  cotton  cloths  are  woven  by  hand.  Mohgaon 
contains  a  vernacular  middle  school. 

Mohindargarh  Nizamat  (or  Kanaud). — A  nizamat  or  administra- 
tive district  of  the  Patiala  State,  Punjab,  lying  between  270  18'  and 
2 8°  28'  N.  and  750  56'  and  7 6°  18'  E.,  with  an  area  of  575  square 
miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Dadri  tahsll  of  the  Jind 
State  ;  on  the  west  and  south  by  Jaipur  State  territory ;  and  on  the 
east  by  the  State  of  Alwar  and  the  Bawal  nizamat  of  Nabha.  The 
population  in  1901  was  140,376,  compared  with  147,912  in  1891. 
The  nizamat  contains  the  towns  of  Narnaul  and  Mohindargarh  or 
Kanaud,  the  head-quarters ;  and  268  villages.  The  land  revenue  and 
cesses  in  1903-4  amounted  to  3-9  lakhs.  Situated  in  the  extreme 
south-east  of  the  Province,  it  is  geographically  part  of  the  Rajputana 
desert,  and  forms  a  long  narrow  strip  of  territory  lying  north  by  south. 
It  is  partially  watered  by  three  streams :  the  Dohan,  which  rises  in  the 
Jaipur  hills,  traverses  the  whole  length  of  the  nizamat,  and  passes  into 
Jind  territory  to  the  north ;  the  Krishnawati,  which  also  rises  in  Jaipur 
and  flows  past  Narnaul  town  into  Nabha  territory  in  the  east ;  and  the 
Gohli.  It  is  divided  into  two  tahsils  :  Mohindargarh,  or  Kanaud, 
and  Narnaul. 

Mohindargarh  Tahsll  (or  Kanaud). — Head-quarters  tahsll  of  the 
Mohindargarh  nizamat,  Patiala  State,  Punjab,  lying  between  2 8°  6'  and 
280  28'  N.  and  750  56'  and  760  18'  E.,  with  an  area  of  299  square 
miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  55,246,  compared  with  59,867  in 
1 891.     The  tahsll  contains  the  town  of  Kanaud  (population,  9,984), 


MOHMAND    COUNTRY  385 

the   head-quarters,  and    1 1 1   villages.     The    land  revenue  and  cesses 
in   1903-4  amounted  to   1-5  lakhs. 

Mohindargarh  Fort. — The  fort  at  Kanaud  in  Patiala  State, 
Punjab,  was  so  named  in  1861  by  Maharaja  Narindar  Singh,  in  honour 
of  his  son  Mohindar  Singh.  The  fort  contains  the  public  offices  of 
the  Mohindargarh  nizamat  and  tahsi/,  and  the  treasury,  jail,  &c. 

Mohmand  Country. — A  tract  north-west  of  Peshawar  District, 
North-West  Frontier  Province,  lying  between  330  30'  and  34°  40'  N.  and 
700  30'  and  710  30'  E.,  with  an  area  of  about  1,200  square  miles. 
Its  boundaries  are  :  on  the  east  and  north,  the  Swat  and  Ambhar 
rivers ;  on  the  west,  the  Afghan  territory  of  Kunar ;  and  on  the 
south,  the  watersheds  of  the  Kabul  river.  Those  of  the  Mohmands 
who  live  west  of  the  Afghan  boundary  are  subject  to  the  Amir. 
The  majority  of  the  tribe,  who  live  between  Afghanistan  and  the 
border  of  Peshawar  District,  are  under  the  political  control  of  the 
Deputy-Commissioner  of  Peshawar ;  but  there  is  an  increasing  ten- 
dency to  settle  in  the  District,  in  the  dodbs  between  the  rivers.  The 
Mohmand  settlers  seldom  remain,  however,  during  the  summer 
months,  being  what  is  described  as  Do-Kora  ('  two  homes ').  The 
tract  is  naturally  divided  into  the  rich  alluvial  lands  along  the  Kabul 
river  from  Jalalabad  to  Lalpura,  and  a  network  of  hills  and  valleys 
from  Lalpura  eastward.  The  aspect  of  the  Mohmand  hills  is  dreary 
in  the  extreme,  coarse  grass,  scrub  wood,  and  dwarf-palms  being  the 
only  vegetation.  In  summer  the  desert  tracts  radiate  an  intolerable 
heat,  and  water  is  scarce.  This,  coupled  with  the  unhealthiness  of 
the  river  lowlands,  accounts  for  the  inferiority  of  the  Mohmands  to 
their  Afridi  and  Shinwari  neighbours  in  physique;  and  they  are 
little  recruited  for  the  Indian  army.  The  crops  are  largely  dependent 
on  the  rainfall,  and  should  this  fail,  considerable  distress  ensues. 
The  hills,  indeed,  cannot  support  the  population.  The  country 
exports  little  except  grass,  firewood,  dwarf-palm,  and  charcoal.  But 
there  is  a  considerable  through  trade,  the  carrying  of  which  supple- 
ments the  people's  resources.  They  also  levy  dues  on  the  timber 
rafted  down  from  Kabul.  Since  the  Khyber  Pass  was  opened,  however, 
the  routes  through  the  Mohmand  country  have  lost  much  of  their 
importance.  The  Mohmands  are  closely  allied  to  the  Yusufzai 
Pathans.  Under  them  are  two  vassal  tribes  :  the  Satis,  probably  Kafirs 
converted  to  Islam,  of  whom  little  is  known ;  and  the  Mullagoris, 
who  inhabit  the  country  between  the  Kabul  river  and  the  Khyber 
Pass.  This  tribe  is  a  small  one  and  cannot  muster  more  than  500 
to  800  fighting  men,  but  has  now  for  many  years  maintained  its 
independence  and  denies  ever  having  held  a  position  of  subordination 
to  the  Mohmands.  The  Mohmands  formed  one  of  the  group  of 
Afghan    tribes    which,    driven  eastward   by   Mongol   inroads   between 


386  MOHMAND    COUNTRY 

the  thirteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries,  overran  the  country  west  and 
north  of  Peshawar  District,  expelling  or  subduing  the  Hindu  and 
non-Afghan  races.  Their  success  was  in  great  measure  due  to  their 
possession  of  hereditary  chiefs  or  Khans,  who  kept  together  forces 
which  have  gradually  worn  down  the  resistance  of  the  disunited  Shin- 
waris.  The  chief  of  these  is  the  Khan  of  Lalpura,  but  there  are  several 
minor  Khans,  and  one  family  claims  that  title  as  the  hereditary 
guardian  of  the  saris hia  or  code  of  tribal  law  and  custom.  The 
Khans  of  Lalpura  at  various  times  owed  allegiance  to  Akbar  and 
Shah  Jahan,  to  Nadir  Shah  and  Ahmad  Shah  Durrani.  About 
1782,  however,  Arsala  Khan  of  Lalpura  revolted  against  Timur  Shah 
Durrani,  but  was  compelled  to  submit,  and  was  executed  at  Peshawar 
in  1791.  Thereafter  the  history  of  the  family  is  one  of  constant 
bloodshed.  Saadat  Khan,  who  held  the  Khanship  for  forty  years, 
was  a  faithful  vassal  of  the  Barakzai  dynasty  of  Afghanistan  ;  but  in 
1864  he  was  arrested  by  the  Amir  for  constant  aggressions  on  the 
British  border  and  died  a  prisoner  at  Kabul.  After  a  period  of 
anarchy,  Akbar  Khan  was  appointed  in  1880  by  the  British  Govern- 
ment. His  extravagance  and  dissipation,  however,  greatly  diminished 
his  influence,  and  in  1896  he  resigned  his  position  and  now  lives 
at  Kabul.  In  1896  also  the  Utmanzai,  Dawezai,  Halimzai,  Tarakzai, 
and  Pindiali  Mohmands  came  under  the  sole  control  of  the  British 
Government,  and  have  received  allowances  from  that  date.  In  1903 
allowances  were  also  fixed  for  the  Musa  Khel  Mitai  Mohmands. 
The  Mohmands  have  a  great  reputation  for  bravery  among  the  neigh- 
bouring tribes,  and  can  muster  about  18,000  fighting  men.  They  are 
fairly  well  armed. 

During  the  early  period  of  British  rule  the  Mohmands  gave  more 
trouble  than  any  other  frontier  tribe  :  and  for  many  years  their  his- 
tory was  a  series  of  wanton  outrages  in  British  territory,  culminating 
in  the  unprovoked  murder  of  a  British  officer  in  1873.  and  followed 
by  the  usual  punitive  expeditions.  In  1895  the  Mohmands,  with 
no  other  justification  than  the  Adda  Mulla's  fanatical  preaching,  joined 
in  the  resistance  to  the  Chitral  relief  force.  In  1897  they  were  among 
the  first  to  raise  the  standard  of  jihad  against  the  British  power,  and 
attacked  Shabkadar.  The  Mohmand  country  was  accordingly  in- 
vaded from  Bajaur  by  two  brigades  of  the  Malakand  field  force  under 
Sir  Bindon  Blood,  and  from  Shabkadar  by  two  more  under  Sir  Edmond 
Elles. 

A  branch  of  the  tribe  has  settled  in  the  south-west  corner  of 
Peshawar  District,  and  is  now  quite  separate  from  the  main  body. 

Mohol.—  Village  in  the  Madha  tdluka  of  Sholapur  District, 
Bombay,  situated  in  170  49'  N.  and  750  39'  E.,  on  the  Poona- 
Sholapur    road,   about   20   miles   south-east  of  Madha,   on   the  Great 


MOKOKCHUXG  387 

Indian  Peninsula  Railway.  Population  (1901),  4,904.  A  weekly 
market  is  held  on  Sunday.  A  school  is  maintained  by  the  American 
Mission.  The  town  contains  two  temples,  an  old  fort  used  under 
Maratha.  rule  for  the  offices  of  the  former  Mohol  subdivision,  and  two 
ruined  forts  outside  the  town,  built  about  200  years  ago  by  the  local 
Deshmukhs.  The  two  temples  of  Bhaneshwar  and  Nilkantheshwar 
or  Chandramauli  are  both  said  to  have  been  built  by  Hemadpant. 
A  yearly  fair  is  held  at  the  Nilkantheshwar  temple  during  three 
days,  beginning  with  the  fourth  of  the  bright  half  of  Vaishakh  (April- 
May).  According  to  local  tradition,  Mohol  is  a  very  old  town.  It  is 
supposed  to  have  suffered  severely  in  the  war  between  Hindus  and 
Musalmans  at  the  close  of  the  thirteenth  century,  and  the  present 
Deshmukh  and  Deshpande  families  of  the  Madha  taluka  claim 
descent  from  officers  appointed  by  the  victorious  Musalmans.  During 
the  great  Durga-devi  famine  (1396-1408)  the  town  is  said  to  have 
been  abandoned  and  to  have  taken  twenty-five  years  to  recover. 
Another  local  story  says  that  Mohol  was  the  residence  of  the  god 
Nagnath,  who  afterwards  proceeded  to  Vadval,  5  miles  to  the 
south-east.  Nagnath's  temples  at  Mohol  and  Vadval  were  built 
about   1730  by  Ghongre,  a  rich  merchant  of  Vairag. 

Mohpa. — Town  in  the  Katol  tahsll  of  Nagpur  District,  Central 
Provinces,  situated  in  210  19'  N.  and  780  50'  E.,  21  miles  north- 
west of  Nagpur  city  by  road.  Population  (1901),  5,336.  Mohpa  is 
not  a  municipality,  but  a  town  fund  is  raised  for  sanitary  purposes. 
A  cotton-ginning  factory  with  a  capital  of  about  Rs.  35,000  has 
been  opened,  and  another  is  under  construction.  The  town  is  sur- 
rounded by  gardens,  from  which  vegetables  are  sent  to  Nagpur.  It 
has  a  vernacular  middle  school. 

Mokameh  {Mukdma).  -Town  in  the  Barh  subdivision  of  Patna 
District,  Bengal,  situated  in  25°  25'  N.  and  S5"  53'  E.,  on  the  right 
or  south  bank  of  the  Ganges.  Population  (1901),  13,861.  It  is  a 
station  on  the  East  Indian  Railway,  283  miles  distant  from  Calcutta, 
and  is  a  junction  for  passengers  proceeding  by  the  Bengal  and 
North-Western  Railway.  The  town  contains  a  large  number  of 
European  and  Eurasian  railway  employes,  and  is  an  important  centre 
of  trade. 

Moka  Pagina  Muvada. — Petty  Slate  in  Rlwa  Kaxtha, 
Bombay. 

Mokokchung. — Subdivision  of  the  Naga  Hills  District,  Eastern 
Bengal  and  Assam,  lying  between  26°  6'  and  260  48'  N.  and  940  16' 
and  940  50'  E.,  with  an  area  of  733  square  miles.  The  population 
rose  from  26,416  in  1891  to  33,783  in  1901,  giving  a  density  of 
46  persons  per  square  mile.  A  large  portion  of  this  increase  was 
due  to   the  immigration   of   tribes    from    beyond  the    frontier.      The 


3§8  MOKOKCHUNG 

subdivision  was  formed  in  1889,  in  order  to  protect  the  Ao  Nagas 
from  the  aggression  of  the  tribes  that  live  to  the  east  of  the  Dikho 
river,  and  is  in  charge  of  a  European  officer  of  police.  The  annual 
rainfall  at  MokokchQng  village  averages  96  inches.  The  principal 
source  of  revenue  is  house  tax,  which  in  1903-4  amounted  to 
Rs.  23,800. 

Mokundurra. — Village  and  pass  in  Kotah  State,  Rajputana.     See 

MUKANDWARA. 

Molakalmuru. — North-eastern  taluk  of  Chitaldroog  District, 
Mysore,  lying  between  140  34'  and  150  2'  N.  and  760  36'  and 
760  52'  E.,  with  an  area  of  290  square  miles.  The  population  in 
1 901  was  37,744,  compared  with  32,560  in  1891.  There  are  three 
towns,  Molakalmuru  (population,  2,915),  the  head-quarters,  Deva- 
samudra  (2,004),  and  Rampura  (1,845);  an^  94  villages.  The  land 
revenue  demand  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  54,000.  The  taluk  is  a  long 
and  narrow  strip  of  country  jutting  into  Bellary  District.  A  few 
isolated  villages  on  the  west  are  entirely  separated  from  the  re- 
mainder. The  surface  is  very  undulating,  and  except  where  rice 
and  garden  lands  exist  is  covered  with  rocks  and  loose  stones.  A 
range  of  bare  rocky  hills  runs  right  across  the  taluk  from  south- 
east to  north-west,  among  which  are  the  Nunke  Bhairava  hill  (3,022 
feet)  and  the  Jatinga  Ramesvara  hill  (3,469  feet).  More  than  a 
third  of  the  surface  is  occupied  by  these  hills,  which  are  so  barren 
that  not  a  blade  of  grass  or  a  tree  will  grow  on  their  sides.  Nearly 
9  square  miles  in  the  south  are  taken  up  with  kammar  jungle.  The 
south  is  comparatively  level,  but  the  soil  very  poor.  The  Janagahalla 
river  flows  along  the  western  boundary  for  a  short  distance,  and  then 
turns  north-east  across  the  taluk  under  the  name  of  Chinna-Haggari, 
receiving  the  drainage  of  the  bare  rock)*  hills  around.  All  tanks  of  any 
importance  are  close  to  the  river  and  fed  by  channels  from  it.  Wells 
are  numerous,  and  two  crops  of  rice  are  raised  in  the  year  by  their 
means.  Betel-vines,  tobacco,  wheat,  and  jola  are  also  grown,  the  first 
in  the  north  for  the  Bellary  market.  Blankets,  coarse  cotton  cloth, 
women's  saris  with  silk  borders,  and  tape  for  belts,  are  the  principal 
manufactures.  Iron  ore  from  the  Kumarasvami  hill  in  Sandur  State 
is  smelted  in  one  or  two  villages. 

Momeik. — Shan  State  and  subdivision  of  the  Ruby  Mines  District, 
Upper  Burma.     See  Mongmit. 

Mominabad. —  Town  in  Bhir  District,  Hyderabad  State.  See 
Ami? a  Town. 

Mone.  —  One  of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma.     See  Mongnai. 

Mong. — One  of  the  three  circles  into  which  the  Chittagong  Hill 
Tracts,  Eastern  Bengal  and  Assam,  arc  divided  for  administrative 
purposes.      It  occupies   the    north-west  corner  of  the   District,   lying 


MONGHYR   DISTRICT  389 

between  22°  45'  and  230  47'  N.  and  91°  41'  and  92°  7'  E.,  with  an 
area  of  653  square  miles.  The  greater  part  of  the  country  consists  of 
hills  and  ravines  covered  with  dense  tree  jungle.  The  population 
in  1901  was  31,898,  compared  with  22,708  in  1891.  Most  of  the 
people  are  Tipperas  (see  Hill  Tippera).  There  are  128  villages, 
of  which  Maxikcheri  is  the  residence  of  the  chief  who  administers 
the  circle.  The  title  of  Along  Raja  is  hereditary  ;  the  present  in- 
cumbent is  Raja  Nephru  Sain. 

Mong  (Afftng). — Milage  in  the  Phalia  tahsll  of  Gujrat  District,  Pun- 
jab, situated  in  320  39'  N.  and  73°  ^  E.,  35  miles  from  Gujrat  town. 
It  stands  on  an  old  ruined  mound,  the  modern  houses  being  built 
of  large  ancient  bricks.  Greek  and  Indo-Scythian  coins  are  found 
in  numbers  among  the  ruins,  many  of  them  bearing  the  monogram 
NIK  \  but  General  Cunningham's  identification  of  Mong  as  the 
site  of  Nikaia,  the  city  built  by  Alexander  to  commemorate  his 
victory  over  Porus,  is  no  longer  accepted.  Tradition  assigns  the 
origin  of  the  mound  to  Raja  Moga,  whom  Cunningham  identified 
with  the  Maues  of  the  coins.  The  head-works  of  the  Jhelum 
Canal  are  situated  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Monghsu  and  Mongsang  (Burmese,  Maingshu  and  Maingsin). — 
Two  small  States  (recently  amalgamated)  in  the  north  of  the  eastern 
division  of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  between  210  31/ 
and  220  5'  N.  and  980  11/  and  980  32'  E.,  with  an  area  of  164  square 
miles.  Both  States  used  formerly  to  be  part  of  the  Northern  Shan 
State  of  North  Hsenwi,  but  were  made  separate  charges  in  1S57. 
The  combined  State  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  Manglon  ; 
on  the  south  by  Mongnawng ;  and  on  the  west  by  Mongnawng  and 
Kehsi  Mansam.  It  consists  mainly  of  rugged  hills  and  broad  valleys, 
watered  by  the  Nam  Pang  and  its  affluents  ;  and  rice  is  the  only 
crop  grown  to  any  extent.  The  population  in  190 1  was  17,480, 
distributed  in  265  villages.  More  than  14,000  of  this  total  consisted 
of  Shans,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  remainder  were  Yins.  A  few 
Palaungs  live  in  the  hills.  The  residence  of  the  Myoza  is  at  Monghsu 
(population,  244),  to  the  east  of  the  Nam  Pang  on  a  tributary  of  that 
stream.  The  revenue  in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  11,000  (all  from 
thathameda) ;  and  the  chief  items  of  expenditure  were  Rs.  5,600 
tribute  to  the  British  Government,  Rs.  2,700  privy  purse,  and  Rs.  1,700 
general  charges  on  account  of  administration. 

Monghyr  District  (Mungtr). — District  in  the  Bhagalpur  Division 
of  Bengal,  lying  between  240  22'  and  250  49'  N.  and  850  36'  and 
86°  51/  E.,  with  an  area  of  3,922  square  miles.  Monghyr  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  the  Districts  of  Bhagalpur  and  Darbhanga  ;  on  the 
east  by  Bhagalpur  ;  on  the  south  by  the  Santal  Parganas  and 
Hazaribagh  ;  and  on  the  west  by  Gaya,  Patna,  and  Darbhanga. 


39o  MONGHYR   DISTRICT 

The  Ganges  flows  through  the  District  from  west  to  east,  dividing 
it  into  two  portions  of  unequal  size  and  of  very  different  character. 

The    northern    portion    is    a    great    alluvial    plain, 
^e'ts'         differing    but    little     from    the    adjoining    portions 

of  Darbhanga  and  Bhagalpur.  This  portion  is 
again  subdivided  by  the  Burhi  Gandak,  the  country  to  the  west 
of  that  river  being  similar  to  the  indigo-growing  tracts  of  North 
Bihar.  The  remaining  portion  is  traversed  by  the  Tiljuga,  also 
called  the  Kamla,  and  by  the  Baghmati,  which  was  possibly  at  one 
time  a  continuation  of  the  river  of  the  same  name  which  joins 
the  Gandak  to  the  east  of  Muzaffarpur.  It  is  seamed  by  deserted 
channels ;  and  the  whole  area,  which  covers  about  200  square  miles, 
is  low-lying,  swampy,  and  liable  to  inundation.  The  south  of  the 
District  is  also  to  a  great  extent  alluvial  ;  but  the  general  level 
is  higher  and  the  surface  more  undulating,  and  several  ranges  of 
hills,  outliers  of  the  Vindhyan  series,  enter  the  District  from  the 
south  and  converge  towards  Monghyr  town.  The  principal  are  the 
Kharagpur  hills,  which  form  a  distinct  watershed,  the  Kiul  river 
draining  the  western,  and  the  Man  and  other  streams  the  eastern 
portion  of  the  range.  The  main  channel  of  the  Ganges  has  several 
times  shifted  both  to  the  east  and  to  the  west  of  the  rock  on  which 
the  Monghyr  fort  stands,  alternately  forming  and  washing  away  large 
areas  of  didra  lands  ;  but  since  the  earliest  times  of  which  any  record 
exists,  it  has  washed  the  base  of  the  rock  immediately  to  the  north 
of  the  fort.  The  largest  areas  of  alluvial  deposit  formed  by  these 
changes  in  the  main  channel  are  comprised  in  the  Government  estates 
of  Kutlupur  to  the  west,  and  Binda  didra  to  the  east  of  Monghyr 
town.  A  large  marsh,  known  as  the  Kabartal,  in  the  north  of  the 
Begusarai  subdivision,  apparently  marks  the  old  bed  of  one  of  the 
large  rivers,  and  drains  eastward  through  the  low  tract  lying  in 
the  north-east  of  the  District. 

North  of  the  Ganges  the  older  rocks  are  concealed  by  the  alluvium 
of  the  Gangetic  plain  ;  but  south  of  the  river  the  level  rises  rapidly 
and  the  older  rocks  soon  appear,  first  as  more  or  less  disconnected 
hill  groups,  and  farther  south  as  a  continuous  uninterrupted  outcrop. 
These  rocks  consist  of  the  oldest  system  recognized  by  geologists, 
that  known  as  Archaean.  They  include  a  vast  series  of  crystalline 
rocks  of  varied  composition,  including  granitic  and  dioritic  gneisses, 
hornblende  and  mica-schists,  epidiorites,  crystalline  limestones,  and 
many  other  rocks  collectively  known  as  Bengal  gneiss  ;  another  very 
ancient  series  consisting  of  highly  altered  sedimentary  and  volcanic 
rocks,  including  quartzites,  quartz-schists,  hornblendic,  micaceous, 
talcose,  and  ferruginous  schists,  potstones,  phyllitcs,  slates,  &c,  forming 
an  assemblage   very   similar    to    that    which    has    received    the    name 


PHYSICAL    ASPECTS  391 

of  Dharwar  schists  in  Southern  India  ;  and  vast  granitic  masses 
and  innumerable  veins  of  coarse  granitic  pegmatite,  intruded  amongst 
both  the  schists  and  the  Bengal  gneiss.  The  Bengal  gneiss  occupies 
principally  the  southernmost  part  of  the  District.  The  ancient 
stratified  series  assimilated  with  the  Dharwars  forms  several  hill 
groups  situated  between  the  southern  gneissose  area  and  the  valley 
of  the  Ganges  :  these  are  the  Kharagpur  hills,  the  largest  of  the 
hill  masses  situated  south  of  Monghyr  and  east  of  Luckeesarai,  the 
Sheikhpura  hills  and  the  Gidhaur  range,  respectively  west  and  south 
of  Luckeesarai.  The  rocks  of  the  Gidhaur  range  are  highly  meta- 
morphosed by  innumerable  veins  of  coarse  granitic  pegmatites,  which 
are  of  great  economic  importance  on  account  of  the  mica  they  contain, 
and  constitute  the  eastern  portion  of  the  great  mica-belt  of  Bengal. 
The  coarsest  grained,  and  consequently  the  most  valuable,  pegmatites 
are  the  comparatively  narrow  sheets  which  intersect  the  schists  of  the 
metamorphosed  stratified  series.  The  larger  and  more  uniform  com- 
paratively fine-grained  intrusions  are  valueless  so  far  as  mica  is 
concerned,  though  they  belong  to  the  same  system  of  intrusions. 
On  account  of  its  habit  of  weathering  in  the  shape  of  large  rounded 
hummocks,  the  rock  forming  these  more  massive  intrusions  has  often 
been  described  under  the  name  of  dome-gneiss,  which,  more  accurately, 
should  be  dome-granite.  The  rocks  of  the  Kharagpur  hills  are  not 
nearly  so  much  altered  as  those  of  the  Gidhaur  range.  The  strata 
originally  constituted  by  shales,  which,  in  the  latter  range,  have  been 
transformed  into  schists,  are  only  altered  to  slates  in  the  Kharagpur 
hills.  These  slates,  which  are  regularly  cleaved  and  of  fairly  good 
quality,  are  quarried  to  a  certain  extent  *. 

In  the  portions  of  the  District  near  the  Ganges  the  rice-fields 
abound  with  the  usual  weeds  of  such  localities.'  In  the  swampy 
tract  to  the  east  of  the  BurhT  Gandak,  rank  pod  grass  and  the 
graceful  pampas  grow  in  abundance,  and  below  them  dubh  and 
other  succulent  grasses.  Near  villages  there  are  often  considerable 
groves  of  mango-trees  and  palmyra  palms  ;  and  north  of  the  Ganges 
perhaps  nine-tenths  of  the  trees  are  mangoes,  the  fruit  of  which  forms 
an  important  item  in  the  food-supply  of  the  poorer  classes.  Farther 
from  the  river  on  the  south  the  country  is  more  diversified  ;  and, 
though  no  Government  forests  exist,  an  area  estimated  at  about 
427  square  miles  is  under  forest,  chiefly  towards  the  southern  con- 
fines of  the  District  and  in  the  Kharagpur  estate  of  the  Maharaja 
of    Darbhanga.      The   principal    trees    growing   in    the    alluvial    and 

1  T.  H.  Holland,  '  Mica  Deposits  of  India,'  Memoirs,  Geological  Survey  of  India, 
vol.  xxxiv.  pt.  ii.  The  above  account  was  contributed  by  Mr.  E.  Yredenburg, 
Deputy-Superintendent,  Geological  Survey  of  India. 


392  WONGHYR   D /STRICT 

cultivated  areas  are  the  mango  {Mangifera  indicd),  plpal  (Fia/s 
religiosa),  banyan  {Incus  indtca),  sin's  {Mimosa  Sirissa),  nlm  {Alelia 
Azadirachta),  jamun  {Eugenia  Jambolaua),  sissu  {Dalbergia  Sissoo), 
red  cotton-tree  {Bombax  malabaricum),  pakar  {Ficus  infectoria),  jack- 
fruit  tree  {Artocarpus  integrifolia),  bel-ftmt  tree  {Aegle  Afarmelos), 
babul  {Acacia  arabica),  palmyra  {Borassus  flabellifer),  and  date-palm 
{Phoenix  sylvestris) ;  while  the  most  important  of  the  trees  which 
clothe  the  hills  and  the  undulating  country  in  their  neighbourhood 
are  the  sal  {Shorea  robusta),  kend  {Diospyros  melanoxylon),  the  black 
heart  of  which  forms  the  ebony  of  local  commerce,  the  dsan  {Ter- 
minalia  tomentosa\  palds  {Butea  frondosa),  pidr  {Buchanania  latifolia), 
gamhar  {Gmelina  arborea),  gular  {Ficus  oppositifolia),  and  the  mahud 
(Bassia  latifolia).  Perhaps  the  most  useful  of  all  these  trees  is  the 
mahud,  which  yields  food,  wine,  oil,  and  timber.  From  its  flowers 
the  common  country  spirit  is  distilled,  and  whether  fresh  or  dried 
they  furnish  the  poorer  classes  with  wholesome  food  ;  from  its  fruit 
is  pressed  an  oil  largely  used  for  the  adulteration  of  ghl ;  and  the 
tough  timber  is  used  for  the  naves  of  wheels. 

Rope  is  made  in  large  quantities  from  a  jungle  creeper  called  chehdr 
{Bauhinia  Vahlii),  and  also  from  the  coarse  sabai  grass  {Ischaemutn 
atigustifolium).  Lac  is  collected  to  a  very  small  extent  for  exportation 
and  for  making  bracelets,  toys,  Szc.  The  insects  are  found  chiefly  on 
the  small  branches  and  petioles  of  the  palds-tree  {Butea  frondosa). 
This  tree  also  affords  a  valuable  gum  and  a  yellow  dye  of  considerable 
permanence. 

Tigers  are  not  common,  though  they  are  said  to  have  been  respon- 
sible for  sixty-nine  deaths  in  1900.  Leopards,  hyenas,  and  black  bears 
are  found  in  the  hills,  and  wild  hog  in  most  parts  of  the  District.  Several 
varieties  of  deer  are  met  with,  such  as  the  sdmbar,  chital  or  spotted 
deer,  and  barking-deer.  The  '  ravine  deer ' — more  properly  the  Indian 
gazelle  {Gazella  bennetti) — also  occurs.  The  marshes  in  the  north  are 
visited  during  the  cold  season  by  myriads  of  geese,  ducks,  and  cranes ; 
and  peafowl,  jungle-fowl,  and  spur-fowl  are  still  found  in  small  numbers 
among  the  hills  in  the  south  of  the  District.  These  birds,  however, 
like  the  larger  wild  animals,  have  now  been  nearly  exterminated  by 
hunters  and  the  forest  tribes. 

The  temperature  is  moderate  except  during  the  hot  months  of  April, 
May,  and  June,  when  the  westerly  winds  from  Central  India  cause  high 
temperature  with  very  low  humidity.  The  annual  rainfall  averages 
47  inches,  of  which  6-9  inches  fall  in  June,  13-2  in  July,  11-9  in  August, 
and  8  in  September.  In  the  earthquake  of  1897  considerable  damage 
was  done  to  masonry  buildings  at  the  head-quarters  station  and  at 
Jamalpur. 

In  early  times   the   present  site  of  Monghyr  town  lay  within  the 


HISTORY 

old  Hindu  kingdom  of  Anga,  while  a  portion  of  the  western  part  of 
the  District  appears  to  have  been  included  within  the  limits  of  the 
ancient  kingdom  of  Magadha.  There  are  still  several 
traces  of  Buddhist  remains  in  this  portion  of  the  Dis- 
trict ;  and  ruins  at  Rajaona  have  been  identified  by  General  Cunning- 
ham with  those  of  a  monastery  visited  by  the  Chinese  pilgrim  Hiuen 
Tsiang.  The  District  subsequently  passed  under  the  Pal  dynasty ; 
and  a  relic  of  their  rule  still  exists  in  a  copperplate  found  on  the  site 
of  the  fort  in  1780,  which  contains  an  inscription  of  uncertain  date 
recording  that  the  armies  of  Raja  Deb  Pal  (tenth  century  a.d.)  crossed 
the  Ganges  by  a  bridge  of  boats.  The  next  mention  of  Monghyr  is  in 
connexion  with  the  conquest  of  Bihar  and  Bengal  by  the  Muhamma- 
dans,  when  Monghyr  town  wras  taken  by  Muhammad-i-Bakhtyar  Khiljl 
(circa  1198).  In  1580,  when  Raja  Todar  Mai  was  sent  by  the  emperor 
Akbar  to  reduce  the  rebellious  chiefs  of  Bengal,  he  made  Monghyr  his 
head-quarters  and  constructed  lines  of  entrenchment  there.  In  the 
next  century  Shah  Shuja,  after  his  defeat  by  Aurangzeb  in  1659, 
retreated  to  Monghyr  and  strengthened  the  fortifications  and  outer  lines 
of  entrenchment,  but  hurriedly  abandoned  the  fort  on  hearing  that 
Mir  Jumla  was  threatening  his  line  of  retreat.  Subsequently  in  1763 
the  Nawab,  Mir  Kasim  AlT,  selected  the  town  as  his  capital  and 
established  an  arsenal  here.  After  the  defeat  of  his  army  at  Udhua 
Nullah,  he  retreated  to  Monghyr,  but  fled  on  the  approach  of  the 
British  under  Major  Adams  ;  and  the  governor  in  command  of  the 
fort  capitulated  after  a  two  days'  bombardment.  The  greater  part  of 
the  country,  especially  to  the  south  of  the  Ganges,  remained  for  some 
time  in  the  hands  of  semi-independent  chieftains,  the  most  powerful 
of  these  being  the  Raja  of  Kharagpur,  who  ruled  at  one  time  over 
24  parganas.  The  founder  of  this  family  was  a  Rajput  soldier  of 
fortune,  who  overthrew  the  original  Khetauri  proprietors  by  an  act 
of  gross  treachery ;  and  in  the  reign  of  the  emperor  Jahanglr  his  son 
and  successor  strengthened  his  position  by  embracing  Islam  and  taking 
a  wife  from  the  imperial  zana?ia.  The  downfall  of  the  line  dates  from 
the  British  occupation,  when  the  ancestral  estates  were  rapidly  sold 
one  after  another  for  arrears  of  revenue,  a  large  portion  being  bought 
by  the  Maharaja  of  Darbhanga.  Other  ancient  families  are  those  of 
Gidhaur  and  of  the  Rajas  of  Pharkiya,  the  latter  of  whom  trace  their 
descent  from  a  Rajput  who  first  brought  the  lawless  tribes  of  Dosadhs 
under  subjection  in  the  reign  of  Humayun,  and  subsequently  received 
a  zamindari  grant  in  1494.  Portions  of  the  property  still  continue  in 
his  family,  but  the  estate  has  been  much  broken  up  by  subdivision  and 
alienation.  The  modern  history  of  Monghyr  will  be  found  in  the 
article  on  Bhagalpur  District,  within  which  it  was  included  in  the 
earlier  days  of  English  administration.     The  local  records  do  not  give 


394 


MONGHYR    DISTRICT 


the  date  of  the  establishment  of  the  District  as  a  suhsidiary  executive 
circle,  but  this  change  appears  to  have  been  effected  about  the  begin- 
ning of  the  nineteenth  century.  In  1832  Monghyr  was  made  an 
independent  Deputy-Collectorship  and  Joint-Magistracy,  and  the  title 
of  Magistrate  and  Collector  was  subsequently  given  to  the  District 
officer. 

The  District  contains  several  remains  of  antiquarian  interest.  In 
addition  to  the  great  fort  at  Monghyr,  there  are  the  ruins  of  other 
forts  at  Indpe  (near  Jamui),  Naulakhagarh  near  Khaira,  Chakai,  Jai- 
mangalgarh  in  the  Kabartal  and  Naula  in  the  Begusarai  subdivision. 
Buddhist  remains  are  to  be  found  at  Rajaona  and  Hasanganj  near 
Luckeesarai,  and  at  Uren  near  Kajra.  There  is  an  inscription  of  about 
the  tenth  century  at  Kashtharani  Ghat  and  another  referring  to  the 
Bengal  Sultan  Rukn-ud-din  Kaikaus  (1297)  at  Luckeesarai.  The  oldest 
extant  building  of  the  Muhammadan  period  is  the  dargah  of  Shah 
Nafah,  built  in  1497-8  by  Daniyal,  son  of  Ala-ud-dTn  Husain,  king  of 
Bengal. 

The  population    increased   from  1,814,638  in  1872  to  1,969,950  in 

i88r,  to  2,036,021  in  1891,  and  to  2,068,804  in  1901.     The  District  is 

fairly  healthy,  though  cholera  is  epidemic  ;  and  the 

Population.     falljng  off  in  the  rate  of  progress  indicated   by  the 

census  returns  is  chiefly  due  to  the  appearance  of  plague  in  1900, 
which,  in  addition  to  the  consequent  mortality,  caused  a  large  number 
of  persons  to  leave  the  District.  The  principal  statistics  of  the  Census 
of  1901  are  shown  below: — 


Subdivision. 

Area  in  square 
miles. 

Number  of 

Population. 

u 

§a 

---    CO 

Q«cr 

O    Vi 

554 
346 

857 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 

population  be- 
tween 1891 
and  1901. 

Number  of 

persons  able  to 

read  and 

write. 

09 

c 

0 
H 

3 
1 

4 

v> 
> 

Monghyr  . 
Jamui 
Begxisarai . 

District  total 

1,578 
i,593 

75i 

923 

838 

755 

874,611 

551,227 
642,966 

+  0-4 
-  0-5 

+  5-2 

26,875 

15,537 
18,315 

3,922 

2,516 

2,068,804 

527 

+  1.6 

60,727 

Note.— In  1904  and  1905  changes  of  jurisdiction  were  effected,  with  the  result  that 
the  area  of  the  Monghyr  subdivision  was  increased  to  1,895  square  miles,  and  that  of 
the  Jamfii  subdivision*  reduced  to  1,276  square  miles.  The  population  of  the  sub- 
divisions as  now  constituted  is  1,050,840  and  374,998,  and  the  density  555  and  294 
persons  respectively  per  square  mile. 

The  density  is  greatest  north  of  the  Ganges,  where  there  are  693  per- 
sons per  square  mile,  as  compared  with  only  412  persons  in  the  south 
Gangetic  tract,  while  in  the  extreme  south,  on  the  borders  of  Hazari- 
bagh,  there  are  barely  250  persons  per  square  mile.  The  greatest 
growth  has  occurred  in  the  fertile  Begusarai  subdivision  on  the  north 


AGRICULTURE,  ETC  395 

of  the  Ganges  ;  but  the  sparsely  inhabited  hilly  thdnas  in  the  south- 
east also  show  a  steady  development.  The  four  towns  are  Monghyr, 
the  head-quarters,  Jamalpur,  Sheikhpura,  and  Khagakia,  the  first 
two  being  municipalities.  There  is  considerable  emigration  among 
the  labouring  classes,  especially  to  Central  and  North  Bengal  and  to 
Assam.  The  vernacular  in  the  north  is  the  Maithili,  and  in  the 
south  the  Magadhi  dialect  of  Bihari.  Hindus  constitute  90-3  per  cent, 
of  the  total  population  and  Muhammadans  9-5  per  cent. 

The  most  numerous  Hindu  castes  are  Ahirs  and  Goalas  (240,000), 
Babhans  (189,000),  Dhanuks  (132,000),  Musahars  (123,000),  Dosadhs 
(115,000),  and  Koiris  (110,000);  while  Brahmans,  Chamars  and 
Kandus,  Rajputs,  Tantis,  and  Telis  have  each  more  than  50,000 
representatives.  The  Babhans  are  for  the  most  part  occupancy  ryots 
or  tenure-holders.  The  Musahars,  Dosadhs,  and  Chamars  may  be 
considered  semi-Hinduized  aborigines.  The  Musalmans  are  chiefly 
Shaikhs,  Jolahas,  and  Kunjras.  Two-thirds  of  the  population  are 
supported  by  agriculture,  13-6  per  cent,  by  industries,  i-i  per  cent,  by 
commerce,  and  i«6  by  the  professions. 

Christians  number  1,433,  of  whom  423  are  natives.  The  Baptist 
Mission,  which  is  said  to  have  been  established  at  Monghyr  in  1816, 
has  stations  at  Begusarai  and  Luckeesarai.  There  are  two  European 
missionaries,  and  two  European  ladies  also  work  among  the  native 
women.  The  United  Free  Church  of  Scotland  opened  a  branch  at 
Chakai  in  1879,  which  works  chiefly  among  the  Santals  ;  the  mission 
maintains  a  hospital,  with  a  branch  dispensary  and  several  schools. 

The  fertile  plain  north  of  the  Ganges,  from  the  boundary  of  Dar- 

bhanga  District  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gandak,  is  almost  entirely  under 

cultivation,  the  chief  crops  being  bhadol  and  rain.  . 

_.       ,        '       ,  ,  r    1  •  cl        Agriculture,  &c. 

The  depressed  tract  to  the  east  of  this  grows  fine 

rabi  crops  in  some  places  and  rice  in  others  ;  but  during  the  rains  it  is 

to  a  large  extent  inundated  and  uninhabited,  and  there  are  large  tracts 

of  pasture  where  herds  graze  in  the  dry  and  hot  season.     South  of  the 

Ganges  the  cultivated  area  lies  chiefly  in  the  basin  of  the  Kiul  river  and 

its  tributaries,  and   in  pargana  Kharagpur,  where  the  largest  area  is 

under  winter  rice.     The  tract  to  the   north   of  Sheikhpura  and   west 

of  Luckeesarai,  which  is  also  liable  to  inundation,  is  nearly  all  devoted 

to  bhadol  and  rabi. 

The  chief  agricultural  statistics  for  1903-4  are  shown  in  the  tabic 
on  the  next  page,  areas  being  in  square  miles. 

About  67  per  cent,  of  the  cultivated  area  is  estimated  to  be  twice 
cropped. 

In  the  Begusarai  subdivision  north  of  the  Ganges,  for  which  exact 
figures  are  available  on  account  of  the  survey  in  progress,  it  has  been 
found  that  in  the  Begusarai  thdna  79  per  cent,  and  in  Teghra  86  per 

vol.  xvu  c  c 


;96 


MONGHYR   DISTRICT 


cent,  of  the  total  area  is  cultivated.  In  both  thdnas  maize  is  the  most 
important  crop,  covering  about  one-fourth  of  the  total.  Wheat,  gram, 
marud,  and  barley  are  also  extensively  grown.  Winter  rice  accounts 
for  less  than  10  per  cent,  of  the  land  in  Begusarai  and  less  than  5  per 
cent,  in  Teghra.  Indigo  is  grown  on  3  per  cent,  of  the  area  in  Begu- 
sarai and  on  5  per  cent,  of  that  in  Teghra.  In  the  whole  District,  rice 
is  the  crop  most  extensively  grown,  and  it  was  estimated  to  cover 
447  square  miles  in  1903-4.  The  chief  variety  is  winter  rice,  which  is 
raised  for  the  most  part  south  of  the  Ganges.  Among  other  crops  the 
poppy  is  important,  but  is  cultivated  only  in  the  southern  portion  of 
the  District ;  while  tobacco  is  almost  confined  to  the  portion  north 
of  the  Ganges. 


Subdivision. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Cultivable 
waste. 

Monghyr*. 

Jamul*      .... 

Begusarai  .... 

Total 

1,578 

1-593 

751 

749 
119 

556 

Il6 
67 

83 

3>9^ 

i>424 

266 

*  Owing  to  changes  of  jurisdiction,  the  area  of  the  Monghyr  subdivision  has  sub- 
sequently been  increased  to  1,895  square  miles,  and  that  of  the  lamui  subdivision 
has  been  reduced  to  1,276  square  miles. 

Cultivation  is  extending  chiefly  in  the  low-lying  lands  of  the  GogrI 
thana,  where  the  recently  constructed  railway  from  Hajipur  to  Katihar 
has  prevented  inundation  from  the  south.  During  the  decade  ending 
1 90 1-2  an  average  of  Rs.  3,000  per  annum  was  advanced  under  the 
Land  Improvement  Loans  Act ;  these  advances  are  granted  chiefly  for 
improving  the  means  of  irrigation.  In  the  same  period  an  average 
of  Rs.  7,000  per  annum  was  advanced  under  the  Agriculturists'  Loans 
Act,  large  loans  being  granted  where  necessary  on  account  of  the 
failure  of  the  crops  owing  to  drought  or  flood. 

The  cattle  are  generally  small  and  inferior  to  the  breeds  in  Patna 
and  Shahabad  Districts.  There  is  ample  pasturage  among  the  hills  in 
the  south  during  the  rainy  season,  and  on  the  grass  lands  of  Pharkiya 
in  the  dry  season. 

The  only  large  irrigation  work  is  in  the  Kharagpur  estates  of  the 
Maharaja  of  Darbhanga.  While  the  estate  was  under  the  Court  of 
Wards,  a  dam  was  built  across  the  river  Man  about  two  miles  above 
Kharagpur,  by  which  water  is  banked  up  in  a  valley  and  thence 
distributed  by  irrigation  channels  over  an  area  of  about  28  square 
miles.  This  useful  scheme,  which  cost  less  than  7  lakhs,  has  been 
chiefly  instrumental  in  raising  the  rent-roll  of  the  estates  by  more  than 
300  per  cent,  or  from  about  Rs.  40,000  to  nearly  Rs.  1,30,000. 
Llsewhere    in   the  southern   portion   of  the   District  there  are  a  few 


TRADE  AND    COMMUNICATIONS  397 

artificial  irrigation  channels  taking  off  from  hill-streams,  but  the 
principal  method  of  irrigation  consists  in  storing  water  in  artificial 
reservoirs,  known  as  dhars.  Wells  are  also  used  for  irrigation  purposes 
north  of  the  Ganges,  where  artificial  irrigation  is  little  required  as  the 
country  is  subject  to  inundation  during  the  rains. 

The  fisheries  in  the  Ganges  and  Gandak  and  in  the  large  jhils  lying 
in  pargana  Pharkiya  are  very  extensive,  and  the  supply  of  fish  is 
abundant  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  There  is  an  extensive 
trade  in  the  shells  of  the  fresh-water  mussel  ( Unio)  and  marsh  snail 
(Ampul/aria),  which  are  collected  in  tons  in  the  Pharkiya  marshes  and, 
when  burned,  yield  a  very  pure  lime. 

Minerals  are  entirely  confined  to  the  tract  lying  south  of  the  Ganges. 
Galena,  a  sulphuret  of  lead  containing  a  small  quantity  of  silver,  is 
found  in  the  hill  tracts  of  the  Chakai  pargana,  and  minium  or 
protoxide  of  lead  in  the  beds  of  the  Kharagpur  hill  streams.  Mica 
occurs  in  the  belt  of  schists  and  gneissose  granite  which  stretches 
north-eastwards  from  Gaya  District  to  near  Nawadih  (Jha-Jha)  on  the 
East  Indian  Railway.  In  1903-4  four  mines  were  worked,  with  an 
output  of  227  tons.  Iron  ores  are  found  in  the  schists  of  the 
Kharagpur  hills,  and  in  several  places  ochreous  ores  are  employed  as 
pigments.  Slates  are  quarried  near  Jamalpur,  the  output  in  1903-4 
being  213  tons;  and  stone  quarries  are  also  worked.  Felspar  fit  for 
the  manufacture  of  porcelain  occurs  in  abundance  in  the  south  of  the 
District.  Corundum  is  obtained  from  the  hills  near  Jamui,  but  the 
precious  forms  are  not  met  with.  Travertine  is  found  near  Gidhaur 
and  in  the  Kharagpur  hills. 

Monghyr  has  long  been  famous  for  its  manufacture  of  firearms, 
which  was  introduced  when  there  was  a  Musalman  garrison  in  the  fort. 
A  serviceable  double-barrelled  gun  can  be  obtained  at 
Monghyr  for  Rs.  30,  a  single-barrelled  gun  for  Rs.  15,  communications# 
and  a  large  double-barrelled  pistol  for  the  same  sum. 
Swords  and  iron  articles  ot  various  kinds  are  also  made,  but  of  no 
special  excellence.  Cotton-weaving  is  largely  carried  on  ;  and  there  are 
a  few  dyers  and  calico  printers,  the  centre  of  the  latter  industry  being 
Sheikhpura.  Coarse  blankets  are  woven  by  a  few  families  of  Gareris. 
Among  other  minor  industries  may  be  mentioned  cabinet-making  and 
boat-making,  soap-boiling,  making  porous  water-bottles  of  clay,  carving 
lingams  or  emblems  of  Siva  out  of  chlorite,  basket -weaving,  and  straw 
work.  Sticks,  jewellery  cases,  and  other  articles  are  made  of  ebony 
and  inlaid  with  ivory  or  bone.  Imitation  fish  are  made  of  silver  and 
used  as  caskets  and  scent  phials.  Sheikhpura  is  noted  for  its  manu- 
facture of  tubes  for  the  hukka  or  native  pipe.  The  East  Indian 
Railway  Company's  works  at  Jamalpur  are  the  largest  manufacturing 
workshops  in  India,  employing  over  y.000  hands.      All  the  constituent 

c  c  2 


398  MONGHYR   DISTRICT 

parts  of  a  locomotive  can  now  be  constructed  there,  and  railway 
material  of  all  descriptions  is  manufactured  from  malleable  iron,  cast 
iron,  and  steel.  The  manufacture  of  indigo  has  declined,  the  out-turn 
of  dye  in  1903-4  being  85  tons.  The  Gidhaur  gur  (raw  sugar)  from 
the  Jamui  subdivision  has  a  special  reputation,  and  generally  sells  at 
higher  prices  than  that  manufactured  in  other  places.  Aerated  water 
is  made  from  various  mineral  springs. 

The  District  is  favourably  situated  for  trade  by  both  rail  and  river. 
The  most  important  river  marts  are  Khagaria  on  the  Gandak,  and 
Simaria,  Monghyr,  and  Gogri  on  the  Ganges.  Barhiya,  Luckeesarai, 
Jamalpur,  Sheikhpura,  and  Bariarpur  are  the  chief  centres  of  trade  on 
the  railway,  while  a  considerable  volume  of  traffic  passes  via  Tarapur  to 
Sultanganj  station  in  Bhagalpur  District.  The  chief  articles  of  import 
are  piece-goods,  coal  and  coke,  rice,  and  sugar.  The  exports  consist 
mainly  of  agricultural  produce,  the  chief  items  being  gram  and  pulses, 
linseed,  wheat,  mustard,  rapeseed,  chillies,  and  tobacco  leaf. .  There 
is  also  a  considerable  export  of  raw  sugar,  and  an  equal  import  of 
refined  sugar ;  ghl  also  is  largely  exported.  The  chief  trading  castes 
are  the  local  Baniyas,  but  there  are  many  Marwaris  in  the  towns  and 
larger  villages. 

South  of  the  Ganges  the  loop-line  of  the  East  Indian  Railway 
(broad  gauge)  passes  through  the  District  from  east  to  west,  and  the 
chord-line  from  north-west  to  south-east,  while  the  South  Bihar 
Railway  runs  through  the  Sheikhpura  thana  westwards  to  Gaya.  The 
Katihar-Hajipur  section  of  the  Bengal  and  North-Western  Railway 
(metre  gauge)  traverses  the  District  north  of  the  Ganges  from  east  to 
west.  The  District  board  maintains  95  miles  of  metalled  and  1,471 
miles  of  unmetalled  roads,  including  194  miles  of  village  tracks.  The 
most  important  roads  are  :  the  Tirhut  road  running  westwards  from 
the  north  bank  of  the  Ganges  opposite  to  Monghyr  town,  the  Monghyr- 
Bhagalpur  and  Monghyr-Patna  roads,  and  the  roads  from  Bariarpur  to 
Kharagpur,  and  from  Luckeesarai  to  Sheikhpura  and  to  Jamui.  The 
District  board  controls  56  ferries. 

The  Ganges,  which  intersects  the  District  from  west  to  east  for 
70  miles,  is  navigable  at  all  seasons  by  river  steamers  and  the  largest 
country  boats  ;  and  a  considerable  river  traffic  is  carried  on.  The 
steamers  of  the  India  General  and  River  Steam  Navigation  Companies 
convey  goods  and  passengers  to  places  between  Calcutta  and  Patna. 
The  East  Indian  Railway  has  also  a  steamer  service  between  Monghyr, 
Mansi,  and  Gogri,  and  a  ferry  service  across  the  Ganges  opposite 
Monghyr  in  connexion  with  the  Bengal  and  North-Western  Railway. 
The  Little  Gandak  and  Tiljuga  are  navigable  all  the  year  round,  but 
only  small  craft  of  10  tons  burden  can  ply  on  them  in  the  hot  season. 
During  the  rains  a  large  portion  of  the  northern  part  of  the  District 


.  /  DMINIS  TR.  i  TTOX  399 

remains  under  water,  and  boats  are  then  largely  used  as  a  means  of 
communication. 

The  famine  of  1865-6  was  severely  felt  in  the  south-west  of  the 
District,  and  there  were  a  large  number  of  deaths  from  starvation  and 
diseases  engendered  by  want.  In  1874  another 
failure  of  the  rice  crop  threatened  famine,  which 
was,  however,  averted  by  the  facilities  for  importation  afforded  by  the 
railway  and  by  the  relief  which  Government  provided  on  a  lavish  scale: 
the  total  expenditure  on  this  occasion  amounted  to  23-30  lakhs,  of 
which  the  larger  portion  consisted  of  advances.  The  crops  were  again 
short  in  1891,  especially  in  the  north  of  the  District,  and  relief  works 
were  open  for  some  months.  They  were  only  resorted  to  by  a  small 
proportion  of  the  population,  and  the  number  on  relief  at  no  time  rose 
above  2,171.  In  1896-7  the  poor  suffered  from  the  high  prices 
consequent  on  famine  elsewhere,  but  the  crops  were  fairly  good. 

For  administrative  purposes  the  District  is  divided  into  three  sub- 
divisions,  with  head-quarters  at   Monghyr,  JamuI,  and   Begusarai. 

The  District  Magistrate-Collector  is  usually  assisted    .... 

,  °  „  .    .  r        t  ■   -     Administration. 

at   head-quarters   by  a  staff  consisting  of   a  Joint- 
Magistrate  and  six  Deputy-Magistrate-Collectors;  while  the  subdivisions 
of  Begusarai  and  JamuI  are  each  in  charge  of  a  Joint  Magistrate. 

Subordinate  to  the  District  Judge  for  the  disposal  of  civil  suits  are 
a  Sub-Judge  and  five  Munsifs,  of  whom  two  sit  at  Monghyr,  two  at 
Begusarai,  and  one  at  JamuI.  Criminal  courts  include  those  of  the 
District  and  Sessions  Judge,  who  is  also  Judge  of  Bhagalpur,  and 
the  above-mentioned  magistrates.  Riots  are  a  very  common  form  of 
crime,  due  generally  to  disputes  about  land  ;  burglaries  are  numerous, 
and  dacoities  are  occasionally  committed. 

Sarkar  Monghyr,  assessed  by  Todar  Mai  at  7-41  lakhs,  appears 
to  have  embraced  areas  not  included  within  the  present  Monghyr 
District,  and  to  have  been  almost  entirely  unsubdued  ;  it  was  probably 
also  largely  unexplored.  At  the  time  of  the  British  accession  to  the 
Dlwani  in  1765  it  was  assessed  to  a  net  revenue  of  8-o8  lakhs,  and 
covered  8,270  square  miles.  It  is  not,  in  fact,  practicable  to  institute 
any  comparison  between  the  present  revenue  of  Monghyr  District  and 
the  figures  for  years  earlier  than  1850,  as  till  that  year  the  land,  excise, 
and  other  revenue  was  for  the  most  part  paid  into  the  Bhagalpur 
treasury,  and  the  accounts  were  not  kept  separately.  Subdivision  of 
landed  property  has  gone  on  rapidly  ;  the  number  of  estates  in  1 903-4 
amounted  to  8,027,  of  which  7,916  with  a  current  demand  of  7-77  lakhs 
are  permanently  settled,  65  with  a  demand  of  Rs.  52,000  are  temporarily 
settled,  and  46  with  a  demand  of  Rs.  72,000  are  held  direct  by  Govern 
ment.  Owing  to  the  backward  condition  of  the  country  at  the  time  of 
the  Permanent  Settlement,  the  incidence  of  the  land  revenue  is  very 


4oo 


MONGHYR   DISTRICT 


low,  amounting  to  only  10  annas  per  cultivated  acre,  or  less  than 
1 8  per  cent,  of  the  rental.  Survey  and  settlement  operations  have 
been  completed  in  the  portion  of  the  District  north  of  the  Ganges  and 
in  the  Government  estates  south  of  that  river.  Occupancy  holdings 
average  1-75  acres  in  the  Begusarai  thdna,  where  there  are  large  diara 
holdings  and  jhlls,  and  1-35  acres  in  Teghra;  and  the  average  rent  is 
Rs.  3-14-7  per  acre  in  Begusarai,  compared  with  Rs.  3-6-2  in  Teghra. 
For  the  whole  District  the  incidence  of  rental  per  cultivated  acre 
is  about  Rs.  5-10-9.  In  the  south  the  tenure  known  as  bhaoli  is 
common  ;  under  this  system  the  tenant  pays  a  rent  in  kind  equal 
to  a  certain  proportion  of  the  out-turn  in  each  year,  which  is  usually 
one-half  the  produce. 

The  following  table  shows  the  collections  of  land  revenue  and  of 
total  revenue  (principal  heads  only),  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1880-1. 

1890-1. 

1 900- 1. 

'903-4. 

Land  revenue 
Total  revenue 

8,87 
r5»53 

8,97 
'7.71 

8,82 
20,70 

9,00 
22,28 

Outside  the  municipalities  of  Monghyr  and  Jamalpur,  local  affairs 
are  managed  by  the  District  board,  with  the  assistance  of  local  boards 
in  each  subdivision.  In  1903-4  its  income  was  Rs.  3,41,000,  of  which 
Rs.  1,58,000  was  derived  from  rates ;  and  the  expenditure  was 
Rs.  3,13,000,  the  chief  item  being  Rs.  2,11,000  spent  on  public  works. 

The  District  contains  18  police  stations  and  independent  outposts. 
In  1903-4  the  force  subordinate  to  the  District  Superintendent  con- 
sisted of  3  inspectors,  ^  sub-inspectors,  34  head  constables,  and 
415  constables  ;  there  was,  in  addition,  a  rural  police  of  310  daffadars 
and  3,599  chaukidars.  The  District  jail  at  Monghyr  has  accommo- 
dation for  274  prisoners,  and  subsidiary  jails  at  Jamul  and  Begusarai 
for  72. 

The  great  majority  of  the  population  are  illiterate,  only  2-9  per  cent. 
5-8  males  and  0-2  females)  being  able  to  read  and  write  in  190T. 
The  number  of  pupils  under  instruction  decreased  from  30,617  in 
1882-3  to  25,449  in  1892-3,  after  which  there  was  a  large  increase; 
but  it  again  declined  to  25,738  in  1 900-1,  when  the  attendance  fell 
off  very  greatly  owing  to  the  outbreak  of  plague.  In  1903-4,  28,752 
boys  and  2,841  girls  were  at  school,  being  respectively  18-9  and 
1-7  per  cent,  of  those  of  school-going  age.  The  number  of  educational 
institutions,  public  and  private,  in  that  year  was  1,326,  including  one 
Arts  college,  22  secondary,  1,025  primary,  and  278  special  schools. 
The  most  important  of  these  are  the  Diamond  Jubilee  College  and 
the  District  school  in  Monghyr  town,  and  the  high  schools  at  Begusarai 
and  Jamul.     Among   aborigines   a  few  Santals   in   the   south  attend 


MONGHYR    TOWN  _,oi 

primary  schools.  The  expenditure  on  education  was  1.33  lakhs,  of  which 
Rs.  9,000  was  met  from  Provincial  funds,  Rs.  42,000  from  District 
funds,  Rs.  4,000  from  municipal  funds,  and  Rs.  60,000  from  fees. 

In  1903  the  District  contained  13  dispensaries,  of  which  6  had 
accommodation  for  a  total  of  132  in-patients.  The  cases  of  8o,coo 
out-patients  and  1.200  in-patients  were  treated  during  the  vear,  and 
5,503  operations  were  performed.  The  expenditure  was  Rs.  32,000,  of 
which  Rs.  800  was  met  from  Government  contributions,  Rs.  12,000 
from  Local  and  Rs.  5,000  from  municipal  funds,  and  Rs.  to, 000 
from  private  subscriptions. 

Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  in  municipal  areas.  In  1903-4  the 
number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  was  76,000,  representing 
37-9  per  1,000  of  the  population. 

[M.  Martin  (Buchanan  Hamilton),  Eastern  India,  vol.  ii  (1838)  ; 
Sir  W.  W.  Hunter,  Statistical  Account  of  Bengal,  vol.  w  (1877).] 

Monghyr  Subdivision. —  Head-quarters  subdivision  of  Monghvr 
District,  Bengal,  lying  between  240  57'  and  250  49'  N.  and  850  36"  and 
86°  51'  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,895  square  miles.  The  subdivision  is 
divided  into  two  portions  by  the  Ganges.  The  northern  portion 
is  a  low,  but  fertile,  alluvial  plain  ;  the  south  is  also  to  a  great  extent 
alluvial,  but  the  general  level  is  higher  and  the  surface  more  undulating, 
and  it  contains  hill  ranges  which  gradually  converge  towards  Monghyr 
town.  The  population  in  1901  was  874,611,  compared  with  870,755 
in  1891,  the  density  being  554  persons  per  square  mile.  At  the  time 
of  the  Census  it  comprised  an  area  of  1,578  square  miles,  but  the 
Sheikhpura  thana  was  subsequently  transferred  to  it  from  the  Jamui 
subdivision.  The  population  of  the  subdivision  as  now  constituted  is 
1,050,840,  and  the  density  555  persons  per  square  mile.  It  contains 
four  towns,  Monghvr  (population,  35,880),  the  head-quarters,  Jamal- 
pur  (13,929),  Khacaria  (11,492),  and  Sheikhpura  (10,135);  ar>d 
1,262  villages.  The  chief  centres  of  trade  are  Monghyr  town  and 
Khagaria.  The  head-quarters  of  the  locomotive  department  of  the  East 
Indian  Railway  are  situated  at  Jamalpur.  Kiul  near  Luckeesarai  is 
an  important  railway  junction. 

Monghyr  Town  (Mungir). — Head-quarters  of  Monghyr  District, 
Bengal,  situated  in  250  23'  N.  and  86°  28"  E.,  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  Ganges.  The  origin  of  the  name  of  Monghyr  is  very  uncertain. 
It  is  said  that  the  place  was  formerly  called  Madgalpur,  or  Madgalasram, 
from  its  having  been  the  abode  of  Madgal  Muni,  a  hermit  saint  who 
lived  in  early  Hindu  times.  Another  explanation,  founded  on  the 
authority  of  the  Harivansa,  derives  the  name  from  a  certain  Madgal 
Raja,  one  of  the  sons  of  Visvamitra,  son  of  a  Gadhi  Raja,  who  received 
this  part  of  his  father's  dominions.  Dr.  Buchanan  Hamilton  states 
that  on  an  inscription  seven  or  eight  centuries  old,  found  at  Monghyr 


402  MONGHYR    TOWN 

and  perhaps  more  ancient  than  the  Harivansa,  the  name  is  written 
Madgagiri,  or  'the  hill  of  Madga,'  and  not  Madgalpurl,  or  'the  ahode 
of  Madgal.'  The  existence,  therefore,  of  both  the  saint  and  the  prince 
is  very  doubtful.  Possibly  the  original  name  was  Munigriha,  '  the 
abode  of  the  muni]  and  was  corrupted  into  Munglr,  in  the  same  way 
as  Rajagriha  has  been  corrupted  into  Rajglr. 

Tradition  assigns  the  foundation  of  the  town  to  Chandra  Gupta, 
after  whom   it  was  called  Guptagarh,  a  name  which  has  been  found 
inscribed  on  a  rock  at  Kashtharani  Ghat  at  the  north-western  corner 
of  the  present  fort.     A  copperplate  found  on  the  site  of  the  fort  in 
1780  contains   an    inscription   of  uncertain  date,   recording  that    the 
armies  of  Raja  Deb  Pal  here  crossed  the  Ganges  by  a  bridge  of  boats  ; 
the  date  usually  assigned  to  Deb  Pal  is  the  tenth  century.     Monghyr 
is  first  mentioned  by  Muhammadan  historians  as  having  been  taken 
by  Muhammad-i-Bakhtyar  KhiljT,  during  the  conquest  of  Bihar,  about 
1198;   and  henceforth  it  is  often  referred  to  as  a  place  of  military 
importance.     Prince  Daniyal,  son  of  Ala-ud-dln  Husain,  the  Afghan 
king  of  Gaur,  repaired  the  fortifications  in  1497  and  built  a  vault  over 
the  tomb  of  Shah  Nafah,  the  Muhammadan  patron  saint  of  the  town  ; 
and  in  1580  Raja  Todar  Mai,  on  being  deputed  by  Akbar  to  reduce 
the   rebellious   Afghan    chiefs   of  Bengal,    made   Monghyr   his   head- 
quarters and  constructed  entrenchments  between  the  Ganges  and  the 
hills.     Shah   Shuja,  after   his   defeat   by   Aurangzeb   near    Khajuha, 
retreated  here  in   1659,  and,  resolving  to  make  a  stand  against  the 
imperial  troops,  strengthened  the  fortifications  and  threw  up  lines  of 
entrenchment;   on  learning,  however,  that  Mir  Jumla  had  got  round 
to  his  rear  by  forced  marches  through  the  hills  of  Jharkand,  he  hurriedly 
withdrew  his  troops  from  the  trenches  and  beat  a  retreat  to  Rajmahal. 
In  the  next  century,  when  the  Nawab,  Mir  Kasim  AIT,  determined  on 
war  against  the  English,  he  selected  Monghyr  as  his  capital  in  1763, 
and  established   an  arsenal  under  the   supervision  of  his  Armenian 
general,  Ghurghin  (Gregory)  Khan  :  the  gun-making  industry  for  which 
the  town   is  famous  is  said  to  date  from  the  establishment  of  this 
arsenal.     He  retreated  here  after  the  defeat  of  his  army  at  Udhua 
Nullah,  but  fled  on  the  approach  of  the  British  troops  under  Major 
Adams ;    and   the   governor   who   was   left    in   command  of  the  fort 
capitulated  after  a  two  days'  bombardment.     A  spot  by  the  side  of 
the  fort  is  still  pointed  out  as  the  scene  of  the  memorable  outrage, 
when  the  two  Seths,  the  great  Hindu  bankers  of  Murshidabad,  were 
thrown  into  the  Ganges  on  a  charge  of  favouring  the  British  cause. 
Monghyr  has  been  a  place  of  considerable  importance  since  the  earliest 
days  of  the  British  occupation  of  Bengal,  although  it  did  not  become 
a  civil    station    until    1812  ;    and    the   old    Musalman    fort  was    once 
occupied  by  a  regiment  belonging  to  the  East   India  Company. 


MONGKUNG  403 

At  present  Monghyr  is  a  purely  civil  station,  and  in  some  respects 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  Bengal.  It  consists  of  two  distinct 
portions — the  fort,  within  which  are  situated  the  public  offices  and 
residences  of  the  Europeans  ;  and  the  native  town,  stretching  away 
from  the  former  eastward  and  southward  along  the  river.  The  fort 
is  formed  by  a  great  rampart  of  earth  enclosing  a  rocky  eminence, 
and  is  faced  with  stone.  It  was  probably  at  one  time  a  strong  position  ; 
towards  the  west  the  river  comes  up  to  the  walls,  forming  a  natural 
defence,  while  to  the  landward  a  deep  wide  ditch  surrounds  and 
protects  it. 

The  population  fell  from  59,698  in  1872  to  55,372  in  1881  ;  it  rose 
again  to  57,077  in  189 1  but  dropped  to  35,880  in  1901,  when  it 
included  26,715  Hindus  and  8,950  Muhammadans.  The  decrease  on 
the  last  occasion  was  due  to  the  fact  that  the  plague  was  raging 
severely  in  the  town  at  the  time  when  the  Census  was  taken,  and 
that  a  large  number  of  the  inhabitants  had  temporarily  left  to 
escape  its  ravages.  A  second  enumeration,  taken  at  the  end  of  July 
when  the  plague  had  disappeared,  gave  a  population  of  50,133.  The 
town  is  favourably  situated  for  trade  by  both  rail  and  river  ;  formerly 
the  trade  was  carried  almost  exclusively  by  river,  but  the  greater  part 
has  been  diverted  to  the  railway.  It  is  connected  by  a  short  branch 
with  the  loop-line  of  the  East  Indian  Railway,  and  by  a  steam  ferry 
with  the  railway  system  on  the  north  of  the  Ganges. 

Monghyr  was  constituted  a  municipality  in  1864.  The  income 
during  the  decade  ending  190 1-2  averaged  Rs.  64,000,  and  the 
expenditure  Rs.  60,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  73,000, 
including  Rs.  23,000  derived  from  a  tax  on  houses  and  land,  Rs.  13,000 
from  tolls,  Rs.  10,000  from  a  conservancy  rate,  Rs.  3,000  from  a  tax 
on  vehicles,  &c,  Rs.  7,000  from  revenue  from  municipal  property  and 
interest  on  investments,  and  Rs.  12,000  as  grants  from  various 
sources.  The  incidence  of  taxation  was  nearly  R.  1  per  head  of  the 
population.  In  the  same  year  the  expenditure  amounted  to  Rs.  68,000, 
the  chief  items  being  Rs.  1,500  spent  on  lighting,  Rs.  6,000  on  drainage, 
Rs.  21,000  on  conservancy,  Rs.  13,000  on  medical  relief,  Rs.  8,000  on 
roads,  and  Rs.  3,000  on  education.  A  drainage  scheme  and  a  project 
for  providing  a  filtered  water-supply  are  under  preparation. 

Mongkiing  (Burmese,  Maitigkai/ig). — A  large  State  in  the  eastern 
division  of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  between  210  15'  and 
220  4'  N.  and  970  8'  and  970  58'  E.,  with  an  area  of  1,643  square  miles. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Northern  Shan  State  of  HsTpaw;  on 
the  east  by  HsTpaw,  Kehsi  Mansam,  and  Mongnawng  :  on  the  south  by 
Laihka  ;  and  on  the  west  by  Lawksawk.  The  eastern  part  and  the  centre 
of  the  State  are  drained  by  the  head-waters  of  the  Nam  Teng  ;  and  the 
large  plain  surrounding  Mongkiing  (population,   1,190),  the  residence  of 


404  MONGKUNG 

the  Myoza,  is  almost  entirely  under  cultivation  and  thickly  populated. 
The  western  side  is  watered  by  the  Nam  Lang.  Excepting  the  central 
plain  and  the  valley  of  the  Nam  Lang,  the  country  is  formed  of  low 
hills  covered  with  oak  and  pine.  Rice  is  grown  in  the  central  plain 
and  in  the  bottoms  of  valleys  where  water  is  obtainable,  and  a  good 
deal  is  exported.  Taungya  cultivation  is  but  little  practised.  On  the 
hills  towards  the  western  border,  and  on  the  range  lying  west  of  the 
capital,  poppy  is  cultivated  by  the  Palaungs.  The  population  in  1901 
was  30,482,  distributed  in  627  villages.  Of  the  total,  about  27,500  were 
Shans  and  nearly  2,000  Palaungs,  the  rest  being  Yins  (Yanglam)  and 
Taungthus.  Like  other  States  in  this  neighbourhood,  Mongkiing  has 
only  recently  recovered  from  the  dire  effects  of  the  disturbances  that 
followed  the  annexation  of  Upper  Burma.  The  revenue  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  Rs.  34,000  (nearly  all  from  thathamedd) ;  and  the  chief 
items  of  expenditure  were  Rs.  15,000  tribute  to  the  British  Govern- 
ment, Rs.  7,400  officials'  salaries  and  administration  charges,  Rs.  8,900 
privy  purse,  and  Rs.  2,700  public  works. 

Mongmit  State. — A  Shan  State,  at  present  administered  as  a 
temporary  measure  as  a  subdivision  of  the  Ruby  Mines  District,  Upper 
Burma.  It  lies  between  2 20  44' and  240  6'  N.  and  960  io'and  97°38'  E., 
comprising  the  townships  of  Mongmit  and  Kodaung,  with  an  area  of 
about  3,562  square  miles.  The  population  in  1901  was  44,208.  Except 
in  the  valley  of  the  Shweli,  it  is  mountainous.  At  the  time  of  the 
annexation  of  Upper  Burma  Mongmit  was  in  a  very  disturbed  con- 
dition ;  and  in  1889  Saw  Maung,  who  had  been  driven  out  by  rebels 
from  the  Sawbwaship  of  Yawnghwe,  was  appointed  regent  as  an  experi- 
mental measure,  with  a  view  to  the  restoration  of  order.  It  was  not 
long,  however,  before  it  became  apparent  that  Saw  Maung  was  unable 
to  manage  the  affairs  of  the  State,  and  in  1892  the  administration  was 
taken  over  by  Government.  The  State  is  about  to  be  restored  to  the 
Sawbwa,  who  has  attained  his  majority.  The  revenue  in  1903-4  was 
Rs.  14,900. 

Mongmit  Township  (Burmese,  Momeik). — A  tract  occupying  the 
greater  part  of  the  Mongmit  State,  and  at  present  administered  as  a 
township  of  the  Ruby  Mines  District,  Upper  Burma.  It  lies  between 
220  44'  and  240  6'  N.  and  960  10'  and  970  10'  E.,  with  an  area  of 
2,802  square  miles.  In  1901  the  population  was  22,581,  composed 
of  Burmans,  Shans,  Palaungs,  and  Kachins  in  the  ratio  of  10,  5,  4, 
and  2.  It  contains  236  villages,  the  head-quarters  being  at  Mongmit 
(population,  1,767),  on  a  tributary  of  the  Shweli.  The  township 
occupies  almost  the  whole  drainage  of  the  Shweli  river.  Away  from 
the  Shweli  valley  it  is  hilly  and  forest-clad,  and  a  large  number  of  the 
inhabitants  are  occupied  in  tree-felling  and  in  bamboo-cutting  under 
forest  contractors.     Rice  is  exported  to  Mogok  and  Tawngpeng. 


MONGNA  WNG  405 

Mongnai  (Burmese,  Mone). — A  large  State  in  the  eastern  division 
of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  hetween  200  22'  and 
210  12'  N.  and  970  33'  and  980  56'  E.,  with  an  area  (including  its 
dependency  of  Kengtawng  or  Kyaingtaung)  of  2,717  square  miles. 
A  large  isolated  circle  abuts  on  the  eastern  boundary  of  Yawnghwe, 
bringing  the  effective  western  boundary  to  970  17'  E.  The  State  is 
bounded  on  the  east  by  Kengtung,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
Salween ;  on  the  south  by  Mongpan  and  Mawkmai ;  on  the  west  by 
Mongsit  and  Laihka  ;  and  on  the  north  by  Laihka,  Mongnawng,  and 
Kenghkam.  Mongnai  proper  occupies  only  the  western  half  of  this 
area.  The  eastern  half  forms  the  Kengtawng  dependency,  the  two 
being  separated  by  a  long  range,  running  north  and  south,  averaging 
about  4,000  feet  in  height.  The  Nam  Teng  river,  entering  the  State 
near  its  north-west  corner,  runs  eastward  till  it  doubles  round  the 
northern  end  of  this  range,  and  waters  the  greater  part  of  Kengtawng. 
The  southern  part  of  Mongnai  proper  is  watered  by  the  Nam  Tawng, 
which  runs  in  a  southerly  direction  past  the  capital  to  join  the  Nam 
Teng,  the  valley  being  shut  in  on  the  west  by  a  lofty  range  of  moun- 
tains that  forms  the  greater  part  of  the  boundary  of  the  State.  In  the 
central  plain  watered  by  the  Nam  Tawng,  and  in  the  wide  valley  of  the 
Nam  Teng,  rice  is  grown  in  considerable  quantities,  the  latter  area 
being  particularly  fertile.  Sugar-cane  and  tobacco  are  cultivated  here 
and  there,  while  gardens  contain  betel,  coco-nut,  oranges,  and  other 
fruits.  Large  quantities  of  Shan  paper  are  manufactured  from  the 
bark  of  a  species  of  mulberry,  and  exported  to  other  States  and  to 
Burma  for  use  in  decorations,  and  for  the  manufacture  of  umbrellas, 
&c.  The  early  records  of  Mongnai  are  vague  and  unsatisfactory. 
The  part  it  played  after  annexation  is  briefly  touched  upon  in  the 
article  on  the  Southern  Shan  States.  The  population  of  the 
State  in  1901  was  44,252,  distributed  in  981  villages.  Of  this  total, 
more  than  five-sixths  are  Shans.  The  Taungthus  are  fairly  well 
represented  (their  total  being  over  4,000),  and  there  are  a  certain 
number  of  Yins.  The  Sawbwa's  head-quarters  are  at  Mongnai  (popu- 
lation, 3,078),  near  the  Nam  Tawng,  once  the  largest  place  in  the 
Southern  Shan  States,  and  still  of  considerable  importance.  The 
American  Baptist  Mission  has  a  station  at  Mongnai,  with  a  hospital 
attached  which  does  valuable  work  locally.  The  revenue  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  Rs.  46,000  (mainly  from  thathameda) ;  and  the  main 
items  of  expenditure  were  Rs.  20,000  tribute  to  the  British  Govern- 
ment, Rs.  18,000  spent  on  official  salaries  and  general  administration, 
Rs.  4,800  credited  to  the  privy  purse,  and  Rs.  3,000  spent  on  public 
works. 

Mongnawng    (Burmese,    Maingnaung). — A    large    State    in    the 
eastern  division  of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  between 


406  MONGNAWNG 

2o°  59'  and  210  55'  N.  and  970  48'  and  980  49'  E.,  with  an  area 
°f  i,575  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Kehsi  Mansam, 
Kenglon,  and  Mongsang ;  on  the  east  by  the  Shan  States  of  Manglon 
and  Kengtung,  from  which  it  is  separated  for  the  most  part  by  the 
Salween  river ;  on  the  south  by  Kenghkam  and  Mongnai  ;  and  on  the 
west  by  Laihka  and  Mongkiing.  The  State  at  one  time  formed  part 
of  Hsenwi,  but  was  made  independent  in  1850.  In  1886  its  ruler 
joined  the  Linbin  confederacy,  and  was  involved  in  the  disturbances 
which  culminated  in  the  Linbin  prince's  surrender.  The  greater  part 
of  the  State  is  open  undulating  country,  with  here  and  there  jagged 
limestone  hills  rising  from  it.  To  the  north  and  west  are  regular 
downs,  almost  treeless ;  to  the  south  scrub  jungle ;  to  the  east  are 
rugged  hills  extending  towards  the  Salween.  The  only  river  of 
importance  is  the  Nam  Pang,  adjoining  whose  banks  are  many  fertile 
paddy-fields.  Rice  is  grown  both  on  these  plains  and  in  taungyas, 
the  level  area  round  Mongnawng  (population,  693),  the  residence  of 
the  Myoza,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  being  especially  fertile. 
The  population  in  1901  was  39,102,  distributed  in  777  villages. 
Of  the  total  more  than  37,000  were  Shans,  the  rest  being  Yins, 
Palaungs,  and  other  hill  tribes.  The  revenue  in  1903-4  amounted 
to  Rs.  23,000  (mainly  from  thathameda) ;  and  the  chief  items  of 
expenditure  were  Rs.  10,000  tribute  to  the  British  Government, 
Rs.  6,700  official  salaries  and  administration  charges,  Rs.  3,300 
privy  purse,  and  Rs.  3,000  public  works. 

Mongpai  (Burmese,  Mobye). — State  in  the  central  division  of  the 
Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  between  190  20'  and  190  53'  N. 
and  960  36'  and  970  9'  E.,  with  an  area  of  660  square  miles.  It  is  the 
most  south-westerly  of  the  Shan  States,  being  bounded  on  the  south 
and  east  by  Karenni ;  on  the  north  by  Loilong  and  Sakoi  ;  and  on  the 
west  by  the  Districts  of  Toungoo  and  Yamethin.  The  general  char- 
acter of  the  country  is  hilly,  rising  gently  from  the  Nam  Pilu  (or  Balu 
r/iai/ng),  which  traverses  the  north-east  corner.  The  western  part  of 
the  State  consists  of  a  confused  mass  of  hills  running  generally  north 
and  south,  and  culminating  in  a  ridge  about  5,000  feet  in  height,  which 
separates  the  basins  of  the  Sittang  and  the  Salween.  Most  of  the  level 
rice  land  is  situated  near  the  Pilu,  and  is  irrigated  from  it  by  water- 
wheels,  or  by  the  diversion  of  small  affluents.  In  the  hills  taungya 
(shifting)  cultivation  prevails.  The  Shans  and  Taungthus  till  the 
usual  homestead  gardens,  in  which  mustard,  tobacco,  sugar-cane, 
cotton,  and  various  fruits  and  vegetables  are  grown  ;  and  maize  and 
millet  are  cultivated  by  the  Red  Karens.  The  population  of  the 
State  in  1901  was  19,351,  distributed  in  158  villages,  and  consists  of 
Padaungs,  Zayeins,  Taungthus,  and  other  Karen  tribes,  besides  a  few 
Shans.     Only  4,612  persons  were  returned  as  Buddhists,  and  13,380 


MONGPAN  407 

as  Animists.  The  Padaung  speakers  numbered  9,321,  the  Shan 
speakers  2,837,  and  the  Taungthu  speakers  1,416.  The  revenue  of 
the  State  amounts  to  Rs.  S,ooo,  derived  almost  entirely  from  thatha- 
meda.  In  1903-4  the  expenditure  included  Rs.  3,000  tribute  to  the 
British  Government,  Rs.  2,200  spent  on  general  administration, 
Rs.  1,500  on  the  pay  of  officials,  and  Rs.  1,200  made  over  to  the 
privy  purse.  The  head-quarters  of  the  Sawbwa  are  at  Mdngpai 
(population,  642),  on  the  bank  of  the  Pilu  river. 

Mongpan  (Burmese,  Maingpaii). — State  in  the  eastern  division 
of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  (with  its  trans-Salween 
dependencies)  on  both  sides  of  the  Salween  river,  between  190  40' 
and  200  32"  N.  and  980  2'  and  990  12'  E.,  with  an  area  of  2,300 
square  miles.  On  the  north  it  is  bounded  by  Mongnai ;  on  the  north- 
east by  Kengtung  ;  on  the  east  and  south  by  Siam  :  on  the  west 
by  Mawkmai.  Little  is  known  of  the  early  history  of  Mongpan.  It 
went  through  troublous  times  after  the  annexation  of  Upper  Burma, 
and  was  ravaged  by  the  troops  of  the  Linbin  confederacy  in  1886. 
The  negotiations  between  the  British  and  Siamese  Governments  in 
connexion  with  its  trans-Salween  dependencies  are  alluded  to  in  the 
article  on  the  Southern  Shan  States.  The  centre  of  the  State 
proper  is  a  large  fertile  plain  surrounding  the  capital,  Mongpan. 
On  all  sides  rise  low  hills  covered  with  scrub  jungle,  culminating  in 
a  range  about  5,000  feet  in  height,  on  the  other  side  of  which  runs 
the  Nam  Teng.  Between  the  central  plain  and  the  Salween,  to  the 
south  and  east,  and  towards  the  northern  border  is  a  confused  mass 
of  mountains.  Of  the  trans-Salween  dependencies,  Mongton  is  the 
most  northerly.  It  borders  on  the  Kengtung  State  ;  and  population 
is  confined  practically  to  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Nam  Ton,  which 
joins  the  Me  Hang,  a  tributary  of  the  Salween,  from  which  the  neigh- 
bouring dependency  of  Monghang  takes  its  name.  This  sub-State  is 
mostly  covered  with  jungle,  its  main  feature  being  Loi  Hkilek,  a  moun- 
tain nearly  7,000  feet  high.  On  the  border  of  the  State,  along  the 
Salween  west  of  Monghang,  is  the  dependency  of  Mongkyawt,  a  moun- 
tainous tract,  with  a  small  population,  confined  to  the  valley  of  the 
Nam  Kyawt,  which  runs  through  the  sub-State  first  eastwards,  then 
westwards,  and  then  northwards,  to  join  the  Salween.  The  minute 
dependency  of  Monghta  lies  in  the  basin  of  the  Nam  Hta,  a  tributary 
of  the  Nam  Kyawt,  to  the  west  of  Mongkyawt.  Gultivation  is  prac- 
tically confined  to  rice,  both  irrigated  and  taungya ;  and  the  central 
plain  round  Mongpan  (population,  1,355), tne  residence  of  the  Sawbwa, 
is  very  fertile.  The  State  contains  valuable  teak  forests,  which  in 
1904  brought  in  a  revenue  of  Rs.  17,700.  The  population  in  1901 
was  r6,629  (distributed  in  196  villages),  of  whom  nearly  all  were 
Shans,  only  a  few  being  Taungthus.     The  revenue  in  1903-4  amounted 


4o8  MONGPAN 


I 


to  Rs.  15,000  (mainly  from  thathameda);  the  items  of  expenditure 
were  Rs.  5,000  tribute  to  the  British  Government,  Rs.  7,700  official 
salaries,  &c,  and  Rs.  2,300  privy  purse. 

Mongpawn  (Burmese,  Maingpuri). — A  small  State  in  the  eastern 
division  of  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  between  200  24' 
and  210  o'  N.  and  970  20'  and  970  32'  E.,  with  an  area  of  371  square 
miles.  It  lies  in  the  Upper  Nam  Pawn  valley,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Laihka ;  on  the  east  by  Laihka  and  Mongsit ;  on  the  south 
by  Hsahtung;  and  on  the  west  by  Wanyin,  Nawngwawn,  Namhkok, 
Hopong,  and  an  outlying  portion  of  Mongnai.  Mongpawn  played  an 
important  part  in  the  history  of  the  Shan  States  after  the  annexation 
of  Upper  Burma,  its  chief  being  the  most  active  supporter  of  the 
Linbin  prince.  The  State  consists  of  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Nam 
Pawn,  on  which  rice  irrigated  by  water-wheels  is  cultivated,  the  other 
main  crops  being  taungya  rice,  cotton,  sugar-cane,  and  thanatpei.  The 
population  in  1901  was  13,143,  of  whom  about  7,000  were  Shans  and 
about  4,500  Taungthus  ;  the  former  live  in  the  valley,  the  latter  on  the 
hill-slopes.  A  few  Yins  are  also  found  in  the  State.  In  1901  the  number 
of  villages  was  212,  the  residence  of  the  Sawbwa  being  at  Mongpawn 
(population,  1,230),  on  the  Nam  Pawn,  where  it  is  crossed  by  a  bridge 
on  the  main  road  between  Burma  and  Kengtung.  The  revenue  in 
1903-4  was  Rs.  14,000  (mainly  from  thathameda)  ;  and  the  chief  items 
of  expenditure  were  Rs.  4,500  tribute  to  the  British  Government, 
Rs.  3,000  official  salaries,  &c,  and  Rs.  5,300  privy  purse. 

Mongsang.  —  State  in  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma.  See 
Monghsu. 

Mongsit  (Burmese,  Maingseik). — State  in  the  eastern  division 
ui  the  Southern  Shan  States,  Burma,  lying  between  200  20'  and 
200  47'  N.  and  970  27'  and  970  47'  E.,  with  an  area  of  303  square 
miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  Mongnai ;  on  the  south 
by  Mawkmai ;  and  on  the  west  by  Mongpawn.  The  State  consists  of 
a  plain  about  12  miles  long,  the  northern  part  lying  in  the  basin 
of  the  Nam  Teng,  the  southern  in  that  of  the  Nam  Pawn.  The  chief 
crop  is  lowland  rice,  a  large  part  depending  for  irrigation  upon  the 
rainfall,  but  rice  is  also  cultivated  in  taungyas.  The  population  in 
1901  was  9,013,  distributed  in  r84  villages.  Of  the  total,  about 
6,500  were  Shans,  1,200  Yins  (Yangsek),  and  1,000  Taungthus. 
Mongsit  (population,  1,223),  the  residence  of  the  Myoza,  lies  in  a 
valley  towards  the  north  of  the  State.  The  revenue  in  1903-4 
amounted  to  Rs.  11,000  (mostly  from  thathameda);  and  the  chief 
items  of  expenditure  were  Rs.  4,500  tribute  to  the  British  Govern- 
ment, Rs.  3,800  general  administration  charges,  and  Rs.  2,500 
privy   purse. 

Montgomery  District. — District   in   the   Lahore  Division   of  the 


MONTGOMERY  DISTRICT  409 

Punjab,  lying  between  290  58'  and  31°  21'  N.  and  72°  27'  and  74°  8'  E., 
with  an  area  of  4,771  square  miles.  It  is  named  after  the  late  Sir 
Robert  Montgomery,  sometime  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  Punjab. 
In  shape  it  is  a  rough  parallelogram,  whose  south-east  side  rests  on 
the  Sutlej,  while  the  Ravi  flows  through  the  District  parallel  to  the 
Sutlej  and  not  far  from  the  north-west  border.  It  is  bounded  by 
the  Districts  of  Lahore  on  the  north-east,  J  hang  on  the  north-west, 
and  Multan  on  the  south-west,  while  on  the  south-east  it  marches 
with  the  Native  State  of  Bahawalpur  and  the  British  District  of 
Ferozepore.  Except  along  the  river  banks  and 
where  watered  by  canals,  Montgomery  is  practically  aspects. 

a  waste  of  sand.  The  desert  strip  or  Bar  to  the 
north  of  the  Ravi  is  a  continuation  of  the  Jhang  Bar.  The  Gugera 
branch  of  the  Chenab  Canal  has  now  been  extended  to  it,  and  the 
country  is  rapidly  assuming  a  fertile  appearance,  though  part  of  it  is 
still  desert.  On  either  bank  of  the  Ravi  is  a  strip  of  riverain  culti- 
vation ;  here  inundation  canals  carry  the  water  for  varying  distances 
up  to  23  miles,  population  is  fairly  thick,  and  cultivation  good.  South 
of  this  tract  stretches  the  Dhaia  or  central  ridge  of  the  District. 
Absolutely  bare  in  a  dry  season,  this  tract  produces  a  good  crop  of 
grass  if  the  rains  are  plentiful.  The  head-quarters  of  the  District  are 
situated  in  the  middle  of  it.  The  Dhaia  is  bounded  on  the  south  by 
the  high  bank  which  marks  the  ancient  bed  of  the  Beas,  south  of 
which  is  the  Sutlej  valley,  watered  by  the  Khanwah  and  Upper  Sohag 
canals  of  the  Upper  Sutlej  Canal  system.  The  Deg  torrent  enters 
the  District  from  Lahore,  and  after  a  course  of  35  miles  through  the 
Gugera  tahsil  flows  into  the  Ravi. 

Montgomery  contains  nothing  of  geological  interest,  being  situated 
entirely  on  the  alluvium.  The  flora  is  essentially  of  the  Bar  or  desert 
type,  jand  (Prosoftis),  van  (Salvadora),  kari  (Capparis  aphylla),  and 
a  tamarisk  {Tamarix  articulata)  abounding  where  the  soil  can  support 
them  ;  but  wide  stretches  show  nothing  but  saltworts  (/ana,  lani,  ike), 
such  as  Haloxylon  recurvum,  Saisola  foetida,  Suaeda,  &c.  The  type 
is,  however,  changing  with  the  spread  of  cultivation.  In  the  low 
grounds  near  the  Ravi  there  is  a  good  deal  of  klkar  {Acacia  arabica), 
which  may  possibly  be  indigenous  in  this  part  of  the  Punjab  and 
in  Sind. 

Wolves  and  wild  cats  are  the  principal  beasts  of  prey.  '  Ravine 
deer'  (Indian  gazelle)  are  fairly  numerous,  but  nilgai  and  antelope 
are  confined  to  the  banks  of  the  Ravi  on  the  Lahore  border.  Wild 
hog  are  becoming  scarce  as  cultivation  advances. 

The  climate  is  very  dry  and  the  temperature  in  summer  is  oppressive. 
From  May  to  the  middle  of  October,  and  especially  in  June  and  July, 
the  heat  during  the  day  is  intense  ;   but,  except  on  the  frequent  occa- 


410  MONTGOMERY  DISTRICT 

sions  when  heavy  dust-storms  blow,  the  nights  are  comparatively  cool. 
The  District  is  fairly  healthy.  Pneumonia  is  common  in  the  winter, 
caused  by  the  intense  cold  and  dryness  of  the  air.  Fevers  are  preva- 
lent, as  the  majority  of  the  population  live  along  the  banks  of  the 
rivers  and  in  the  canal  tracts. 

The  rainfall  is  generally  scanty,  the  annual  average  ranging  from 
8  inches  at  Pakpattan  to  10  inches  at  Montgomery  town.  The  average 
number  of  rainy  days  is  twenty-three  between  April  and  October,  and 
eight  during  the  winter. 

In  the  time  of  Alexander  the  District  of  Montgomery  appears  to 
have  been  held  by  the  Malli,  who  occupied  the  cities  of  KaMalia 
and  Harappa  taken  by  the  Macedonian  conqueror. 
All  that  is  known  of  its  history  during  the  next 
2,000  years  is  summarized  in  the  paragraph  on  Archaeology  and  in 
the  articles  on  Pakpattan  and  Dipalpur.  After  the  hold  of  the 
Mughal  empire  had  relaxed,  the  District  was  divided  among  a  number 
of  independent  tribes  engaged  in  a  perpetual  warfare  with  one  another, 
and  with  invaders  belonging  to  the  Sikh  confederacies.  The  most 
important  of  the  Muhammadan  tribes  were  the  Kharrals,  Sials,  Wattus, 
and  Hans,  while  the  Sikh  Nakkais  occupied  a  considerable  part  of 
the  District.  Between  1804  and  1810  Ranjit  Singh  obtained  possession 
of  the  whole  District  except  a  strip  on  the  Sutlej,  held,  on  payment 
of  tribute,  by  the  Nawab  of  Bahawalpur,  and  occupied  in  default  of 
payment  by  the  Lahore  government  in  1830.  About  1830  all  but 
the  Dipalpur  tahsll  and  the  cis-Ravi  portion  of  Gugera  was  entrusted 
to  Diwan  Sawan  Mai.  The  Kharrals  and  Sials  took  the  opportunity  of 
the  first  Sikh  War  to  rise  against  the  Sikhs,  but  were  suppressed.  British 
influence  extended  to  the  District  for  the  first  time  in  1847,  when  an 
officer,  under  orders  from  the  Resident  at  Lahore,  effected  a  summary 
settlement  of  the  land  revenue.  Direct  British  rule  commenced  on 
the  annexation  of  the  Punjab  in  1849,  when  a  District  was  formed 
with  its  head-quarters  at  Pakpattan,  including  as  much  of  Montgomery 
as  now  lies  in  the  Bari  Doab.  The  trans-Ravi  portion  of  the  District 
was  added  in  1852,  and  the  head-quarters  were  then  moved  to  Gugera. 
In  1865,  when  the  railway  was  opened,  a  village  on  the  railway,  thence- 
forward known  as  Montgomery,  became  the  capital. 

During  the  Mutiny  of  1857  the  District  formed  the  scene  of  the 
only  rising  which  took  place  north  of  the  Sutlej.  Before  the  end  of 
May,  emissaries  from  Delhi  crossed  the  river  from  Sirsa  and  Hissar, 
where  open  rebellion  was  already  rife,  and  met  with  a  ready  reception 
from  the  Kharrals  and  other  wild  Jat  clans.  The  District  authorities, 
however,  kept  down  the  threatened  rising  till  August  26,  when  the 
prisoners  in  jail  made  a  desperate  attempt  to  break  loose.  At  the 
same  time  Ahmad    Khan,  a  famous   Kharral    leader,  who  had   been 


POPULATION  411 

detained  at  Gugera,  broke  his  arrest,  and,  though  apprehended,  was 
released  on  security,  together  with  several  other  suspected  chieftains. 
On  September  16  they  fled  to  their  homes,  and  the  whole  country 
rose  in  open  rebellion.  Kot  Kamalia  was  sacked;  and  Major  Chamber- 
lain, moving  up  with  a  small  force  from  Multan,  was  besieged  for  some 
days  at  Chichawatni  on  the  Ravi.  The  situation  at  the  civil  station 
remained  critical  till  Colonel  Paton  arrived  with  substantial  reinforce- 
ments from  Lahore.  An  attack  which  took  place  immediately  after 
their  arrival  was  repulsed.  Several  minor  actions  followed  in  the  open 
field,  until  finally  the  rebels,  driven  from  the  plain  into  the  wildest 
jungles  of  the  interior,  were  utterly  defeated  and  dispersed.  Our  troops 
then  inflicted  severe  punishment  on  the  insurgent  clans,  destroying 
their  villages,  and  seizing  large  numbers  of  cattle  for  sale. 

Mounds  of  brick  debris  at  Harappa,  Kamalia,  Akbar,  Satghara, 
and  Bavanni  mark  the  sites  of  forgotten  towns.  The  coins  found  at 
Harappa  and  Satghara  prove  that  both  were  inhabited  in  the  time  of 
the  Kushan  dynasty,  while  General  Cunningham  upholds  the  identity 
of  Kamalia  and  Harappa  with  cities  of  the  Malli  taken  by  Alexander 
in  325  B.C.  Carved  and  moulded  bricks  have  been  found  at  Bavanni 
and  Akbar,  and  it  is  not  .improbable  that  Harappa  was  one  of  the 
places  visited  by  Hiuen  Tsiang.  The  fortified  town  of  Dipalpur  is 
built  on  an  old  Kushan  site.  The  fortifications  themselves  are  very 
ancient,  though  it  is  impossible  to  determine  their  date.  All  that  can 
be  said  is  that  they  are  older  than  the  visit  of  Timur  (1398).  The 
tomb  of  the  famous  saint  Baba  Farid,  at  Pakpattan,  is  supposed  to 
have  been  built  about  1267  and  was  repaired  by  Firoz  Shah.  The 
style  is  simple  and  destitute  of  ornament.  There  are  shrines  at 
Shergarh  and  Hujra,  decorated  with  floral  designs  and  dating  from 
about  1600. 

Montgomery  District  contains  3  towns  and  1,371  villages.  Its 
population  at  the  last  four  enumerations  was  :  (1868)  360,445,  (1881) 
426,529,  (1891)  499.521.  and  (190O  497.706-  In  Popuiation> 
seasons  of  drought  large  numbers  of  people  migrate 
to  the  Chenab  Colony,  where  their  friends  or  relatives  have  obtained 
grants ;  but  when  there  is  a  prospect  of  a  good  harvest  they  return  to 
their  homes.  The  District  is  divided  into  four  tahsils  :  Montgomery, 
Gugera,  Dipalpur,  and  Pakpattan,  the  head-quarters  of  which 
are  at  the  places  from  which  each  is  named.  The  towns  are  the 
municipalities  of  Montgomery,  the  head-quarters  of  the  District, 
Kamalia,  and  Pakpattan.  The  principal  statistics  of  population  in 
1 901  are  shown  in  the  table  on  the  next  page. 

Muhammadans  number  355,892,  or  more  than  72  per  cent,  of  the 
total;  and  there  are  118,837  Hindus  and  22,602  Sikhs.  The  density 
of    population    is    considerably   below    the    average   for   the   Punjab 

vol.  xvii.  d  d 


412 


MONTGOMER  Y  DISTRICT 


(209  persons  per  square  mile),  and  varies  with  the  extent  of  cultivation 
from  52  in  the  Montgomery  tahsll  to  184  in  DIpalpur.  The  decrease 
of  18  per  cent,  in  the  Montgomery  tahsll  is  due  almost  entirely  to 
migration  into  the  Chenab  Colony.  The  language  of  the  people  is 
a  form  of  Western  Punjabi,  very  much  tinged  by  the  MultanI  dialect. 


Tahsil. 

0 

V- 

d 

3     . 

cr  <n 
ir.  V 

- 

< 

Number  of 

c 
0 

"J 

"3 
0. 
0 

Oh 

u 

a. « 

§1 

Percentage  of 
variation  in 

population  be- 
tween i8gi 
and  1901. 

Number  of 

persons  able  to 

read  and 

write. 

c 

0 
H 

0 
be 

> 

Montgomery    . 
Gugera    . 
DIpalpur . 
Pakpattan 

District  total 

1,47! 

824 
978 

!,339 

2 
I 

218 

341 

458 

354 

76,573 
119,622 

179.735 
121,776 

52-1 

M5-2 

183.8 

90.8 

-  18.2 

+     5-4 

-  0.4 
+    8-8 

4,732 
3,907 
6,378 
4,046 

4-771* 

3 

J.37i 

497,706 

104-4 

-    0.4 

19,063 

*  The  only  figures  available  for  the  areas  of  tahsils  are  those  derived  from  the 
revenue  returns,  and  the  tahsil  densities  have  been  calculated  on  the  areas  given  in 
the  revenue  rrturns  for  iqoo-i.  These  returns  do  not  always  cover  the  whole  of  the 
country  comprised  in  a  tahsil,  and  hence  the  total  of  the  tahsil  areas  does  not  agree 
with  the  District  area  as  shown  in  the  table  above,  which  is  the  complete  area  as 
calculated  by  the  Survey  department.  The  tracts  not  included  in  the  revenue  survey 
are  as  a  rule  uninhabited  or  very  sparsely  populated. 

Here,  as  in  all  the  western  Districts  of  the  Punjab,  where  the 
influence  and  example  of  the  frontier  races  is  strong,  caste  is  little 
more  than  a  tradition,  and  the  social  unit  is  the  tribe.  Thus  the 
terms  Jat  and  Rajput  are  of  the  most  indefinite  significance,  Jat 
including  all  pastoral  or  agricultural  tribes  who  (being  Muhammadans 
of  Indian  origin)  do  not  distinctly  claim  Rajput  rank.  The  pastoral 
clans  inhabiting  the  District  bear  collectively  the  name  of  the  '  Great 
Ravi'  tribes,  in  contradistinction  to  the  purely  agricultural  classes, 
who  are  contemptuously  nicknamed  the  '  Little  Ravi.'  Their  principal 
subdivisions  include  the  Kathia,  who  have  been  identified  with  the 
Kathaeoi  of  Arrian ;  the  Kharral,  the  most  turbulent  and  courageous 
of  all  the  clans ;  together  with  the  Fattiana,  Murdana,  Vainiwal, 
Baghela,  Wattu,  and  Johiya.  The  Great  Ravi  Jats  possess  a  fine 
physique,  and  have  handsome  features ;  they  lay  claim  to  a  Rajput 
origin,  and  look  down  upon  all  who  handle  the  plough.  In  former 
days  they  exercised  practical  sovereignty  over  the  agricultural  tribes 
of  the  lowlands.  There  were  56,000  persons  returned  as  Jats  and 
53,000  as  Rajputs  in  1901.  The  Mahtams  (12,000),  Arains  (34,000), 
and  Kambohs  (23,000)  are  hard-working  tribes,  the  two  latter  being, 
as  elsewhere,  first-rate  cultivators.  The  Kharral  (21,000),  Baloch 
(13,000),  and  Khokhar  (8,000)  are  chiefly  pastoral.  Brahmans 
number  only  4,000  and  Saiyids  5,000.  Aroras  (51,000)  are  the 
principal  commercial  tribe,  and  there  are  5,000  Khattris  and  10,000 
Muhammadan   Khojas.     Of  the  artisan  and  menial  classes,  the  chief 


AGRICULTURE 


4i3 


are  the  Chuhras  (scavengers,  31,000),  Julahas  (weavers,  23,000), 
Kumhars  (potters,  20,000),  Machhis  (fishermen  and  water-carriers, 
18,000),  Mochls  (cobblers,  16,000),  Nais  (barbers,  7,000),  Mirasls 
(village  minstrels,  9,000),  Kassabs  (butchers,  6,000),  Sonars  (gold- 
smiths, 4,000),  and  Tarkhans  (carpenters,  12,000).  Chamars,  so 
common  in  the  Eastern  Punjab,  are  hardly  represented.  Nearly 
50  per  cent,  of  the  population  are  supported  by  agriculture,  20  per  cent, 
by  industries,  and  5  per  cent,  by  commerce. 

A  branch  of  the  Reformed  Presbyterian  Mission  was  established  at 
Montgomery  town  in  1895.  In  1901  the  District  contained  314  native 
Christians. 

The  scanty  and  uncertain  rainfall  makes  systematic  cultivation  in 
unirrigated  land  precarious,  and  agriculture  depends  almost  entirely 
on  artificial  irrigation  or  river  floods.  The  prevailing 
soil  of  the  District  is  loam,  but  sandy  and  clay  soils 
are  also  found ;  soils  impregnated  with  soda  and  other  salts  are  not 
uncommon.  The  spring  harvest  (which  in  1903-4  occupied  69  per 
cent,  of  the  total  area  harvested)  is  sown  from  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember to  the  middle  of  December  j  the  autumn  harvest  is  sown 
chiefly  in  June,  July,  and  August,  except  cotton,  which  is  sown  as 
early  as  May. 

The  District  is  held  chiefly  by  small  peasant  proprietors ;  but  large 
estates  cover  about  491  square  miles,  and  lands  leased  from  Govern- 
ment 220  square  miles.  The  area  for  which  details  are  available  from 
the  revenue  records  of  1903-4  is  4,619  square  miles,  as  shown 
below  : — 


Taksil. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated. 

Cultivable 
waste. 

Montgomery 
Gugera 

DTpalpur     .         . 
Pakpattan    . 

Total 

M72 
824 
984 

1,339 

96 

162 

475 
331 

33 
66 

355 

196 

230 
205 
300 
260 

4,619 

1,064 

650 

995 

About  837  square  miles  were  harvested  in  1903-4.  Wheat  is  the 
chief  spring  crop,  covering  354  square  miles  ;  gram  and  barley  covered 
89  and  19  square  miles.  In  the  autumn,  cotton  is  the  principal  crop, 
covering  64  square  miles  ;  rice  is  the  chief  food-crop  (27  square  miles), 
followed  by  the  great  and  spiked  millets,  joivar  and  bajra  (22  and  26 
square  miles),  pulses  (18  square  miles),  and  maize  (16  square  miles). 

The  cultivated  area  fluctuates  violently  from  year  to  year  according 
to  the  rainfall  and  the  amount  of  water  in  the  rivers  ;  and  the  in- 
creasing tendency  to  leave  the  District  in  bad  years  and  to  seek 
employment  in  the  Chenab  Colony  has  already  been  mentioned.     The 

d  d  2 


4i4  MONTGOMERY  DISTRICT 

chief  prospects  of  improvement  in  the  agricultural  conditions  lie  in 
the  direction  of  increased  irrigation.  The  Sohag  Para  Colony,  estab- 
lished on  Government  lands  irrigated  by  the  canals  of  the  Upper 
Sutlej  Canal  system,  has  a  population  of  over  25,000,  cultivating 
about  21, 000  acres.  Loans  for  the  construction  of  wells  are  popular, 
and  during  the  five  years  ending  1904  more  than  Rs.  22,000  was 
advanced  under  the  Land  Improvement  Loans  Act.  Nothing  has 
been  done  in  the  way  of  improving  the  quality  of  the  crops  grown. 

Camels  are  the  most  important  live-stock  of  the  District,  and  a  large 
proportion  of  the  population  returned  as  agricultural  earn  their  chief 
livelihood  by  camel-breeding.  The  horses  bred  in  the  country  on  the 
Lahore  border  had  a  great  reputation  in  ancient  times.  The  District 
board  now  maintains  two  horse  and  two  donkey  stallions.  The  stud 
farm  of  the  nth  Prince  of  Wales's  Own  Lancers  is  situated  at 
Probynabad  in  the  Dlpalpur  tahsll.  The  District  breeds  all  the  cattle 
it  requires,  and  a  considerable  surplus  is  exported.  The  cows  are 
famous  as  the  best  milkers  in  the  Province.  Buffaloes  are  but 
little  used. 

Of  the  total  cultivated  area  in  1903-4,  650  square  miles  were 
irrigated,  2  23  square  miles  being  supplied  from  wells,  103  from  wells 
and  canals,  307  from  canals,  and  17  from  streams  and  tanks,  in  addition 
to  190  square  miles  which  were  irrigated  or  moistened  by  inundation 
from  the  Sutlej.  Ten  villages  north  of  the  Ravi  are  irrigated  from  the 
Gugera  branch  of  the  Chenab  Canal,  which  is  designed  to  water 
45  square  miles ;  but  the  chief  canal-irrigation  is  near  the  Sutlej  from 
the  Khanwah  and  Upper  and  Lower  Sohag  canals  of  the  Upper 
Sutlej  Canal  system,  from  which  it  is  proposed  to  irrigate  ultimately 
about  400  square  miles.  Some  small  canals  from  the  Deg  and  Ravi 
serve  a  small  area  in  the  north  of  the  District,  and  the  spill  water  from 
the  Sutlej  is  controlled  by  dams  and  channels  in  many  places.  Except 
in  the  riverain  tracts,  wells  are  of  masonry  and  worked  with  Persian 
wheels  by  cattle;  the  District  has  11,546  masonry  wells,  besides 
1,536  lever  wells,  water-lifts,  and  unbricked  wells. 

The  District,  which  forms  a  Forest  division,  contains  87  square 
miles  of  'reserved'  and  703  of  ' unclassed '  forests  under  the  Forest 
department.  The  forest  growth  consists  chiefly  of  tamarisk  (Tamarix 
orientaIis),jand  (Prosopis  spicigera),  leafless  caper  (Capparis  aphylla), 
and  van  {Sa/vadora  oleoides),  with  a  considerable  crop  of  munj  grass 
(Saccharum  Sara).  In  1903-4  the  total  receipts  were  1-7  lakhs.  The 
wood  is  chiefly  sold  to  the  North-Western  Railway  for  fuel,  while  the 
forests  afford  valuable  fodder  reserves.  The  District  also  contains 
1,804  square  miles  of  'unclassed'  forests  and  Government  waste  under 
the  control  of  the  Deputy-Commissioner. 

The  only  mineral  products  are  saltpetre  and  some  beds  of  inferior 


FAMINE  415 

kankar  or  nodular  limestone.  Okara  contains  an  important  saltpetre 
refinery.  Impure  carbonate  of  soda  is  also  produced  by  burning  the 
weed  known  as  khangan  khdr  {Chloroxylon  Griffithii). 

Various  articles,  such  as  bed-legs,  boxes,  toys,  spinning-wheels,  &c, 
are  made  of  lacquered  woodwork  at  Pakpattan,  and  the  industry  has 
more  than  a  local  celebrity.     The  cotton  fabrics  of 
the  same  place  are  of  good  quality,  and  very  good  communications. 
cotton   prints    are    prepared    at    Kamalia.      Cotton 
carpets  are  made  at  Kamalia  and  in  the  Central  jail ;  and  carpets,  both 
cotton  and  woollen,  are  woven  at  an  orphanage  at  Chak  Baba  Khem 
Singh  established  by  Baba  Sir  Khem  Singh  Bedi.    Vessels  of  brass  and 
white  metal  are  made  in  a  few  places.     Silk  is  used  to  a  small  extent 
for  embroidery,  and  in  the  manufacture  of  lungis.     There  are  four 
cotton-cleaning  factories   in    the   District,   at    Montgomery,   Dipalpur, 
and  Okara.     The  three  which  were  working  in  1904  gave  employment 
to  86  persons. 

The  principal  exports  are  wheat,  cotton,  oilseeds,  wool,  hides,  and 
ghi ;  and  the  principal  imports  are  millets,  rice,  sugar,  cloth,  hardware, 
and  piece-goods.  Wheat,  wool,  cotton,  and  oilseeds  go  chiefly  to 
Karachi.  Kamalia  and  Pakpattan  are  the  only  trading  towns  of 
importance. 

The  North-Western  Railway  from  Lahore  to  Multan  runs  through 
the  District,  and  takes  practically  all  the  export  and  import  trade.  The 
District  has  only  5  miles  of  metalled  road  ;  but  as  there  is  no  wheeled 
traffic  the  want  is  not  felt,  and  it  is  traversed  in  all  directions  by  broad 
unmetalled  roads,  the  most  important  being  the  trunk  road  from  Lahore 
to  Multan,  and  that  from  Jhang  via  Pakpattan  to  the  Sutlej,  which  is  a 
great  route  for  caravans  from  Afghanistan  bound  to  Delhi.  The  total 
length  of  unmetalled  roads  is  1,079  miles,  of  which  25  are  under  the 
Public  'Works  department,  and  the  rest  are  maintained  by  the  District 
board.  The  Ravi  is  crossed  by  fourteen  and  the  Sutlej  by  ten  ferries, 
but  there  is  practically  no  traffic  up  and  down  these  rivers. 

The  great  famines  of  1783,  1813,  and  1833  all  affected  this  District, 
while  the  famine  of  1860-1  was  severely  felt,  and  there  was  considerable 
distress  in  1896-7.  Owing  to  the  extremely  small 
proportion  of  cultivation  depending  on  rainfall,  real 
famine  such  as  occurs  from  a  total  or  partial  failure  of  the  crops  is  not 
likely  to  affect  the  District ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  the  effect  of  the 
shortage  of  fodder  for  the  cattle  is  most  serious,  as  large  numbers 
die,  and  with  the  half-starved  animals  that  remain  it  is  impossible  to 
plough  and  irrigate  more  than  half  the  area  that  can  be  cultivated  in 
a  good  year.  The  area  matured  in  the  famine  year  1899-1900 
amounted  to  65  per  cent,  of  the  normal. 

The    District   is  in  charge  of  a  Deputy-Commissioner,   with  three 


4 1 6  MONTGOMER  Y  DISTRICT 

Assistant    or    Extra-Assistant    Commissioners,    one    of    whom    is    in 
charge  of  the  treasury  and  another  is  District  Judge.     Montgomery  is 

...  .        .        also  the  head-quarters  of  the  Executive  Engineer  in 
charge  of  the  Upper  Sutlej  Canals,  and  the  Extra- 
Assistant  Conservator  in  charge  of  the  Montgomery  Forest  division. 

The  Deputy-Commissioner  as  District  Magistrate  is  responsible 
for  criminal  justice,  and  civil  judicial  work  is  under  the  District 
Judge.  Both  are  supervised  by  the  Divisional  Judge  of  the  Multan 
Civil  Division,  who  is  also  Sessions  Judge.  There  is  one  Munsif, 
who  sits  at  head-quarters.  Burglary  and  cattle-theft  are  the  chief 
forms  of  crime. 

The  first  summary  settlement,  made  between  1848  and  185 1,  was 
based  on  a  scrutiny  of  the  revenue  returns  of  the  Sikhs.  The  main 
defect  of  the  assessment  was  its  inequality  of  distribution.  A  second 
summary  settlement  was  completed  in  1852,  and  local  knowledge 
was  then  available  to  adjust  the  demand  to  the  varying  capacity 
and  resources  of  estates  with  a  considerable  degree  of  fairness. 
The  regular  settlement  was  begun  by  Mr.  Vans  Agnew  in  1852,  and 
completed  by  Captain  Elphinstone  in  1856.  Mr.  Vans  Agnew  pro- 
posed a  fluctuating  assessment  on  land  irrigated  by  canals  or  floods, 
but  it  was  finally  decided  to  impose  a  water-rent.  This  was  to  be 
paid  for  all  canal-irrigated  land,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  revenue 
assessed  at  rates  for  unirrigated  land  ;  but  remissions  could  be  claimed 
if  the  supply  of  water  failed.  The  total  demand  so  fixed  amounted 
to  3-4  lakhs. 

The  settlement  was  revised  between  1868  and  1872.  A  system  of 
fixed  assessments  was  continued  in  the  Ravi  tahslls  (Gugera  and 
Montgomery),  the  revenue  consisting  of  a  lump  sum  for  each  well 
in  use  (Rs.  8-12),  a  charge  of  from  8  annas  to  R.  1  per  acre  on 
all  cultivation,  and  a  rate  on  all  new  fallow  of  4  or  6  annas  per 
acre.  In  1879  fluctuating  assessments  were  introduced  in  the  riverain 
villages  of  this  tract.  All  cultivable  land  was  assessed  at  a  fixed  rate 
of  1  or  1  i  annas  an  acre,  and  a  charge  of  Rs.  10  per  wheel  was  levied 
on  each  well  worked  during  the  year,  while,  in  addition,  fluctuating 
crop  rates  were  framed  for  different  forms  of  irrigation,  varying 
from  Rs.  1-10  to  R.  0-12  per  acre.  Experience  showed  that  the 
new  system  pressed  hardly  on  the  flood  lands,  and  the  rates  were 
modified  three  times  before  1886.  In  1887  a  still  more  lenient  system 
was  adopted,  which  practically  assessed  all  crops  at  R.  1  an  acre.  This 
was  extended  to  an  increasing  number  of  estates,  so  that  by  1892-3 
364  villages  were  under  fluctuating  assessments,  and  the  demand  had 
fallen  from  Rs.  85,000  to  Rs.  31,000.  In  1891  the  Ravi  tahslls  again 
came  under  settlement.  A  fixed  demand  was  imposed  on  wells,  deter- 
mined   by  the  area   it  was  estimated  they  could  irrigate  during  the 


ADMINISTRATION  417 

year.  All  crops  actually  maturing  on  areas  supplied  by  wells  in  excess 
of  this  estimate  were  liable  to  assessment  at  a  rate  per  acre  which  was 
the  same  for  all  crops,  though  it  varied  in  different  tracts.  The  result 
of  reassessment  in  the  Ravi  tahs'ils  was  an  increase  of  a  quarter  of 
a  lakh. 

The  system  adopted  at  the  regular  settlement  was  no  more  successful 
in  the  Sutlej  tahslls  (Pakpattan  and  Dipalpur).  It  was  found  that  the 
people  wasted  water,  for  which  they  were  paying  next  to  nothing,  and 
the  canal  tracts  were  not  yielding  their  fair  share  of  the  public  burdens. 
It  was  therefore  decided  to  adopt  Mr.  Vans  Agnew's  original  proposals 
in  carrying  out  the  revised  settlement.  Thus  the  fixed  revenue  of  a 
village  consisted  of  the  amount  which  would  have  been  assessed  if  it 
had  no  source  of  irrigation,  plus  a  charge  for  each  well  it  contained. 
In  addition,  villages  taking  canal  water  had  to  pay  separately  a  sum 
proportionate  to  the  area  of  crops  matured  by  its  means,  as  calcu- 
lated by  the  canal  officer.  The  new  Sohag  Para  Colony,  established  in 
1888-91,  was  also  placed  under  a  fluctuating  assessment.  Consolidated 
rates  for  land  revenue  and  canal  water  were  imposed,  varying  from 
Rs.  3-4  to  Rs.  1- 1 2  per  cultivated  acre  for  irrigated  land,  while 
a  uniform  rate  of  12  annas  was  imposed  on  'dry'  land.  The  total 
assessment  of  the  two  Sutlej  tahslls  for  the  year  preceding  the  latest 
settlement  (1897-8)  was  2-2  lakhs.  The  latest  revision  was  made 
between  1894  and  1899  ;  and  the  new  demand,  including  the  estimated 
fluctuating  revenue,  was  3-5  lakhs,  representing  40  per  cent,  of  the  net 
'assets.'  The  land  revenue  of  the  whole  District  in  the  current  settle- 
ment is  thus  about  5  lakhs,  an  increase  of  47  per  cent,  on  the  previous 
assessment. 

The  grazing  tax  (tirni)  is  an  inheritance  from  the  Sikhs.  Captain 
Elphinstone  imposed  it  on  all  cattle,  including  well-bullocks.  In  1857 
the  tax  produced  Rs.  32,000,  in  1872  Rs.  1,08,000,  in  1881  Rs.  48,000. 
In  1870  Government  waste  lands  were  divided  into  blocks  and  leased 
annually  to  farmers,  who  then  realized  grazing  dues  at  fixed  rates  for 
all  cattle  grazing  in  their  respective  blocks.  This  system,  however, 
led  to  extortion  and  was  given  up  in  1879.  In  1886  the  Multan  system 
was  introduced,  by  which  each  ftVm-paying  village  contracted  to  pay  a 
fixed  annual  sum  for  a  period  of  five  years.  In  March,  1S91,  the  sum 
for  the  succeeding  five  years  was  fixed  at  Rs.  1,41,000.  The  coloni- 
zation of  the  Sandal  Bar  seriously  curtailed  the  grazing  grounds,  and 
in  1899  the  system  was  again  altered.  The  quinquennial  assessment 
was  retained  for  camels  only,  and  the  grazing  for  cattle,  sheep,  See,  was 
auctioned  annually  in  large  blocks.  The  amount  realized  under  the 
new  system  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  46,000. 

The  collections  of  land  revenue  and  of  revenue  from  all  sources  have 
been,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


4i8 


MONTGOMER  Y  DISTRICT 


1 880-1. 

1890-1. 

IQOO-I. 

I903-4. 

Land  revenue    . 
Total  revenue    . 

4.87 
5,82 

5:36           3.41 
6,62            5,18 

4>i9 
6,54 

The  District  contains  three  municipalities  :  Montgomery,  Kamalia, 
and  Pakpattan.  Outside  these,  the  affairs  of  the  District  are  managed 
by  a  District  board,  whose  income,  derived  mainly  from  a  local  rate, 
amounted  in  1903-4  to  Rs.  50,000.  The  expenditure  was  Rs.  43,000, 
schools  and  dispensaries  forming  the  largest  items. 

The  regular  police  force  consists  of  449  of  all  ranks,  of  whom  21 
are  municipal  police.  The  Superintendent  usually  has  4  inspectors 
under  him.  The  village  watchmen  number  584.  There  are  17  police 
stations,  one  outpost,  and  5  road-posts.  Trackers  are  enlisted  in  the 
District  police  force,  and  one  is  kept  at  each  police  station.  They 
often  render  most  valuable  assistance  in  the  pursuit  of  criminals  and 
stolen  cattle.  The  combined  Central  and  District  jail  at  head-quarters 
has  accommodation  for  1,522  prisoners.  The  principal  jail  manu- 
factures are  carpets,  matting,  and  cotton  and  woollen  clothing. 

Montgomery  stands  thirteenth  among  the  twenty-eight  Districts  of 
the  Province  in  the  literacy  of  its  population,  of  whom  3-8  per  cent. 
(6-7  males  and  0-4  females)  are  able  to  read  and  write.  The  pro- 
portion is  highest  in  the  Montgomery  tahsil.  The  number  of  pupils 
under  instruction  was  :  1,505  in  1880-1  ;  3,371  in  1 890-1  ;  3,097  in 
1900-1;  and  3,824  in  1903-4.  In  the  last  year  there  were  5 
secondary  and  37  primary  (public)  schools,  and  2  advanced  and  116 
elementary  (private)  schools,  with  125  girls  in  the  public  and  128  in 
the  private  schools.  The  District  possesses  two  high  schools,  one  the 
Government  high  school  at  Montgomery  and  the  other  a  private  school 
at  Kamalia.  The  total  expenditure  on  education  in  1903-4  was 
Rs.  23,000,  of  which  fees  brought  in  Rs.  8,000,  District  and  municipal 
funds  contributing  Rs.  10,000  and  Rs.  3,000  respectively. 

Besides  the  civil  hospital  at  Montgomery  town,  the  District  possesses 
six  outlying  dispensaries.  In  1904  the  number  of  cases  treated  was 
91,816,  of  whom  1,859  were  in-patients,  and  3,649  operations  were 
performed.  The  expenditure  was  Rs.  15,000,  chiefly  contributed  by 
municipal  funds. 

The  number  of  persons  successfully  vaccinated  in  1903-4  was 
13,398,.  representing  29-9  per  r,ooo  of  the  population. 

[P.  J.  Fagan,  District  Gazetteer  (1898-9);  and  Settlement  Report 
(1899).] 

Montgomery  Tahsil. — Tahsil  of  Montgomery  District,  Punjab, 
lying  between  300  16'  and  310  2'  N.  and  720  27'  and  730  26'  E.,  on 
both  banks  of  the   Ravi,  with  an  area  of  1,472  square  miles.     The 


MONYO  419 

population  in  1901  was  76,573,  compared  with  93,648  in  1891,  the 
decrease  being  due  to  migration  into  the  Chenab  Colony.  It  contains 
the  towns  of  Montgomery  (population,  6,602),  the  head-quarters,  and 
Kamalia  (6,976);  and  218  villages.  The  land  revenue  and  cesses 
in  1903-4  amounted  to  Rs.  78,000.  The  greater  part  of  the  tahsll  is 
uncultivated.  It  includes  on  the  south  a  narrow  strip  of  the  Sutlej 
valley,  from  which  it  rises  abruptly  into  the  desert  uplands  lying  between 
the  old  banks  of  the  Beas  and  the  Ravi.  Farther  north  lie  the  Ravi 
lowlands,  interspersed  with  great  stretches  of  jungle,  and,  beyond  the 
river,  sloping  gently  upwards  towards  the  fertile  plateau  irrigated  by 
the  Chenab  Canal.  Cultivation  is  confined  to  the  lands  along  the  river, 
and  a  few  scattered  patches  round  the  wells  elsewhere.  The  scanty 
cultivation  accounts  for  the  low  density  of  population,  52  persons  per 
square  mile. 

Montgomery  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  District  and  tahsil  of 
the  same  name,  Punjab,  situated  in  300  39'  N.  and  730  8'  E.,  on  the 
North-Western  Railway.  Population  (1901),  6,602.  In  1865  the  village 
of  Sahlwal  was  selected  as  the  head-quarters  of  the  District  and  re- 
named after  Sir  Robert  Montgomery,  then  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the 
Punjab.  Situated  in  the  most  arid  and  dreary  part  of  the  uplands 
between  the  Ravi  and  Sutlej,  the  station  is  almost  unequalled  for  dust, 
heat,  and  general  dreariness,  but  is  not  unhealthy.  It  has  no  commer- 
cial or  industrial  importance,  and  merely  consists  of  a  bazar  and  the 
residences  of  the  District  officials.  The  Central  jail  situated  here 
usually  contains  about  1,500  prisoners.  The  municipality  was  consti- 
tuted in  1867.  Its  income  and  expenditure  during  the  ten  years  ending 
1902-3  averaged  Rs.  13,100.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  Rs.  16,600, 
chiefly  derived  from  octroi  and  school  fees  ;  and  the  expenditure  was 
Rs.  15,200.  It  maintains  a  girls'  school  and  a  dispensary.  The  high 
school  is  managed  by  the  Educational  department.  The  town  contains 
two  factories  for  ginning  cotton,  of  which  one  was  working  in  1904  and 
gave  employment  to  37  persons. 

Monwel.  —Petty  State  in  Kathiawar,  Bombay. 

Monyo. — Western  township  of  Tharrawaddy  District,  Lower  Burma, 
lying  between  170  51'  and  180  21'  N.  and  950  15'  and  950  38'  E.,  with 
an  area  of  182  square  miles.  It  extends  along  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
Irrawaddy,  and  is  flat  and  level  throughout.  It  is  the  only  township 
of  the  District  not  traversed  by  the  railway.  The  population  was 
34,648  in  1891,  and  39,964  in  1901.  The  density  is  219  persons  per 
square  mile,  which,  for  Burma,  is  high.  The  township  contained  172 
villages  in  1901,  its  largest  urban  area  being  Monyo  (population,  3,042), 
the  head-quarters,  situated  on  what  was  once  the  bank  of  the  Irrawaddy 
but  now  some  distance  from  the  stream.  The  area  cultivated  in  1903-4 
was  55  square  miles,  paying  Rs.  33,000  land  revenue. 


420  MONYWA   SUBDIVISION 

Monywa  Subdivision. — Subdivision  of  the  Lower  Chindwin  Dis- 
trict, Upper  Burma,  lying  east  of  the  Chindwin  river.  It  comprises 
the  Budalin  and  Monywa  townships. 

Monywa  Township. — South-eastern  township  of  the  Lower  Chin- 
dwin District,  Upper  Burma,  lying  between  210  55'  and  220  21'  N.  and 
950  3'  and  950  39'  E.,  from  the  Mu  river  in  the  east  to  the  Chindwin 
river  in  the  west,  with  an  area  of  487  square  miles.  The  population 
was  71,971  in  1891,  and  90,164  in  1901,  distributed  in  297  villages,  and 
one  town,  Monywa  (population,  7,869),  the  head-quarters  of  the  Dis- 
trict. The  township  head-quarters  are  at  Alon  (population,  3,624),  the 
terminus  of  the  Sagaing-Alon  branch  railway,  on  the  Chindwin,  about 
7  miles  above  Monywa.  Trade  has  greatly  increased  since  the  annexa- 
tion, and  communications  have  been  largely  improved.  The  township, 
which  is  on  the  whole  level  and  dry,  contained  191  square  miles  under 
cultivation  in  1903-4,  and  the  land  revenue  and  thathameda  amounted 
to  Rs.  1,89,500. 

Monywa  Town. — Head-quarters  of  the  Lower  Chindwin  District, 
Upper  Burma,  situated  in  220  6'  N.  and  950  8'  E.,  on  the  left  or  eastern 
bank  of  the  Chindwin  river,  about  50  miles  north  of  its  junction  with 
the  Irrawaddy,  and  65  miles  west  of  Sagaing,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  a  branch  railway.  The  town,  which  is  low-lying  and  fairly  well 
shaded  by  tamarind-trees,  is  protected  from  the  annual  rise  of  the  river 
by  an  embankment  along  the  water's  edge.  It  contains  the  usual  head- 
quarters buildings,  courthouse,  and  jail,  all  of  which  are  situated  at  its 
northern  end,  as  well  as  large  barracks  and  a  hospital  for  the  Chindwin 
military  police  battalion.  The  railway  station  is  at  some  little  distance 
from  the  river,  to  the  east  of  the  civil  station.  The  club  and  a  good 
many  of  the  houses  of  the  European  residents  are  close  to  the  river 
bank.  The  town  is  said  to  derive  its  name  (which  being  interpreted  is 
'  cake  village ')  from  a  baker  maiden  whom  a  king  of  ancient  days 
found  selling  cakes,  and  took  to  himself  as  queen.  It  was  of  little 
importance  at  the  time  of  annexation,  the  head-quarters  of  the  wim 
being  at  Alon,  about  7  miles  farther  up  the  river ;  but  it  has  since  then 
grown  in  importance  and  prosperity,  and  the  last  Census  showed  that 
the  population  had  increased  from  6,316  in  1891  to  7,869  in  1901,  the 
latter  total  including  over  1,000  natives  of  India.  It  is  a  fairly  thriving 
trade  centre,  and  one  of  the  chief  ports  of  call  for  river  steamers  on 
the  Chindwin.  Monywa  was  constituted  a  municipality  in  1888.  The 
municipal  revenue  and  expenditure  during  the  ten  years  ending  190  r 
averaged  about  Rs.  17,000.  In  1903-4  the  receipts  were  Rs.  26,800, 
including  Rs.  1  r,8oo  from  bazars  and  slaughter-houses.  The  ex- 
penditure was  Rs.  27,000,  including  Rs.  6,700  spent  on  conservancy, 
Rs.  3,300  on  the  hospital,  and  Rs.  4,400  on  roads.  The  town  is  well 
laid  out  and  intersected  by  good  thoroughfares.     A  civil  hospital  has 


MORADABAD  DISTRICT  421 

accommodation  for  32  in-patients.  There  is  no  municipal  school,  but 
the  Wesleyan  Mission  school  supplies  most  of  the  higher  educational 
needs  of  the  town. 

Moodkee. — Town  and  battle-field  in  Ferozepore  District,  Punjab. 
See  Mudki. 

Mooltan. — Division,  District,  tahsil,  and  town  in  the  Punjab.  See 
Multan. 

Moradabad  District.— District  in  the  Bareilly  Division,  United 
Provinces,  lying  between  280  20'  and  290  16'  N.  and  780  4'  and 
790  o'  E.,  with  an  area  of  2,285  square  miles.  On  the  north  it  is 
bounded  by  Bijnor  and  NainI  Tal ;  on  the  east  by  the  State  of 
Rampur ;  on  the  south  by  Budaun  ;  and  on  the  west  the  Ganges 
divides  it  from  the  Districts  of  Meerut  and  Bulandshahr.  Near  the 
Ganges  lies  a  stretch  of  low  khadar  land,  from  which 
rises   a  high    sandy   ridge.     The  central    portion   of  Physical 

the  District  comprises  a  fertile  level  plain,  chiefly 
drained  by  the  Sot  or  Yar-i-VYafadax  river,  into  which  many  smaller 
channels  flow.  This  plain  sinks  gradually  into  the  broad  valley  of 
the  Ramganga,  whicli  crosses  the  north-east  corner  of  the  District, 
cutting  off  a  portion  which  borders  on  the  Tarai  and  presents  the 
usual  characteristics  of  the  sub-Himalayan  tracts ;  many  small  streams 
rising  for  the  most  part  in  the  Tarai  flow  through  it.  There  are  a  few 
ponds  in  the  District,  but  none  of  considerable  size. 

Moradabad  consists  almost  entirely  of  alluvium,  in  which  boulders 
of  stone  occasionally  occur.  Kankar  or  nodular  limestone  is  obtained 
in  all  parts  south-west  of  the  valley  of  the  Ramganga.  The  saline 
efflorescence  called  reh  is  found  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Ganges 
khadar. 

The  sandy  tracts  in  the  west  are  extremely  bare,  and  produce 
nothing  spontaneously  except  long  thatching-grass.  In  the  richer 
tract  near  the  centre  trees  are  more  common,  especially  near  the 
older  towns,  which  are  shaded  by  fine  mango  groves.  On  the  whole 
the  District  is  net  well  wooded. 

Tigers  are  occasionally  shot  in  the  jungles  in  the  north-east  of  the 
District  or  in  the  Ganges  khadar,  and  leopards  are  more  common. 
Hog  deer  and  wild  hog  are  numerous  in  the  same  tracts,  and  nilgai 
are  found  in  small  numbers.  The  wolf,  fox,  badger,  otter,  weasel, 
porcupine,  and  monkey  are  found  more  or  less  throughout  the  District. 
The  commoner  game-birds  include  quail,  sand-grouse,  grey  and  black 
partridge,  wild  duck  of  many  varieties,  snipe,  wild  geese,  &c.  Fish 
of  many  kinds  are  found  in  the  rivers,  and  form  an  important  element 
in  the  food-supply  of  the  people. 

The  climate  of  Moradabad  is  generally  healthy,  except  in  the  sub- 
montane tract  which  borders  on  the  Tarai,  and  in  the  lowlands  of  the 


422  MORADABAD  district 

Ganges  and  Sot.  The  temperature  is  cooler  than  in  Districts  west 
of  the  Ganges  and  farther  from  the  Himalayas,  and  frost  is  common 
in  the  winter.  The  annual  mean  is  about  75°  the  minimum  monthly 
temperature  being  560  in  January,  and  the  maximum  900  to  920  in  May 
or  June. 

The  annual  rainfall  averages  about  40  inches,  varying  from  35  inches 
in  the  sandy  tract  to  45  in  the  damp  submontane  area  in  the  north- 
east. Variations  are  considerable,  and  the  amount  has  ranged  from 
about  20  to  nearly  60  inches. 

Tradition  ascribes  great  antiquity  to  Sambhal,  but  very  little  is 
known  of  the  early  history  of  the  District.  Prithwl  Raj,  the  last  Hindu 
king  of  Delhi,  is  said  to  have  fought,  first  with  the 
half-mythical  Saiyid  Salar,  and  later  with  Jai  Chand, 
king  of  Kanauj.  The  first  historical  events  are,  however,  in  the  early 
Muhammadan  period.  Sambhal  became  the  seat  of  a  series  of  gov- 
ernors, whose  duties  were  largely  taken  up  with  suppressing  revolts  of 
the  turbulent  Katehriyas.  In  1266  Ghiyas-ud-din  Balban  attacked 
Amroha,  where  he  ordered  a  general  massacre.  In  1365  Firoz  Tughlak 
invaded  Katehr,  as  Rohilkhand  was  then  called,  to  punish  a  chief 
named  Rai  Kakara,  who  had  murdered  the  Musalman  governor.  Rai 
Kakara  fled  to  Kumaun,  whereupon  the  emperor  plundered  the 
country,  and  left  Malik  Khitab  as  governor.  Ibrahim,  the  famous 
Sultan  of  Jaunpur,  conquered  Sambhal  in  1407,  and  placed  his  own 
deputy  in  the  town  ;  but  a  year  later  Mahmud  Tughlak,  emperor  of 
Delhi,  expelled  the  intruder,  and  replaced  his  own  officials.  In  1473, 
under  Sultan  Husain,  the  Jaunpur  dynasty  once  more  established  itself 
for  a  while  in  Sambhal.  The  emperor  Sikandar  LodI  recovered  the 
District  in  1498  for  the  Delhi  throne,  and  resided  at  Sambhal  for  four 
years.  Thenceforward  the  surrounding  country  remained  a  permanent 
fief  of  the  imperial  court.  In  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
Ahya  Maran,  governor  of  Sambhal,  rebelled  against  Sultan  Muhammad 
Adil,  and  defeated  a  force  sent  against  him  by  the  emperor.  In  the 
succeeding  year,  Raja.  Mittar  Sen,  Katehriya,  seized  Sambhal,  and 
Ahya  Maran  attacked  him.  A  fierce  battle  ensued  at  KundarkhT, 
in  which  the  Raja  sustained  a  crushing  defeat.  Under  Humayun, 
All  Kull  Khan  was  governor  of  Sambhal  and  repelled  an  incursion 
of  the  still-independent  Katehriyas.  In  1566  some  Mirzas,  descendants 
of  Tlmur,  rebelled  and  seized  Akbar's  officers,  whom  they  confined 
in  the  fort  of  Sambhal.  Husain  Khan  marched  against  them,  and 
they  fled  to  Amroha.  On  his  following  them  up  to  their  retreat,  they 
finally  escaped  across  the  Ganges.  Shah  Jahan  appointed  Rustam 
Khan  governor  of  Katehr ;  and  the  latter  founded  Moradabad  about 
1625,  calling  it  after  Murad  Bakhsh,  one  of  the  imperial  princes,  who 
was   afterwards-  murdered    by   Aurangzeb.     After    the    death    of  that 


POPULATION  423 

emperor,  and  subsequent  decline  of  the  central  power,  the  Katehriyas 
revolted,  becoming  independent  for  a  time,  and  the  Musalman  governor 
removed  his  head-quarters  to  Kanauj.  On  the  rise  of  All  Muhammad, 
the  Rohilla  chief,  an  attempt  was  made  by  the  governor  of  Moradabad 
to  crush  him ;  but  the  new  leader  was  victorious  and  by  1 740  had 
acquired  the  whole  of  this  District.  Rohilla  rule  lasted  till  1774,  when 
Rohilkhand  became  subject  to  Oudh,  and  the  District  passed  to  the 
British  with  other  territory  by  the  cession  of  1801.  Very  soon  after- 
wards, in  1805,  the  notorious  Amir  Khan,  a  native  of  Sambhal,  swept 
through  the  District  with  a  swarm  of  Pindari  horsemen,  but  was  not 
successful  in  his  attempt  to  plunder  the  Government  treasury. 

Apart  from  a  few  serious  riots  the  District  remained  peaceful  till 
1857.  News  of  the  Meerut  rising  arrived  on  May  12  in  that  year,  and 
on  the  1 8th  the  Muzaffarnagar  rebels  were  captured.  Next  day,  how- 
ever, the  29th  Native  Infantry  mutinied,  and  broke  open  the  jail  j  but 
on  the  21st  they  united  with  the  artillery  in  repelling  a  Rampur  mob. 
On  the  31st  the  Rampur  cavalry,  who  had  gone  to  Bulandshahr, 
returned ;  and  on  the  succeeding  day  news  of  the  Bareilly  and  Shah- 
jahanpur  outbreaks  arrived.  On  June  3  the  29th  Native  Infantry 
fired  on  the  officials,  who  then  abandoned  the  station,  and  reached 
Meerut  in  safety  on  the  5th.  Ten  days  later,  the  Bareilly  brigade 
arrived  at  Moradabad,  and  shortly  afterwards  marched  on  for  Delhi, 
taking  with  them  the  local  mutineers.  At  the  end  of  June,  the  Nawab 
of  Rampur  took  charge  of  the  District  for  the  British  ;  but  he  possessed 
little  authority,  and  a  rebel  named  Majju  Khan  was  the  real  ruler  of 
Moradabad,  till  the  arrival  of  General  Jones's  brigade  on  April  25,  185S, 
when  he  was  hanged.  Early  in  May  the  District  was  occupied  by 
Mr.  (afterwards  Sir  S.)  Cracroft  Wilson,  the  Judge  of  Moradabad,  with 
a  body  of  troops,  and  order  was  restored. 

Many  ancient  mounds  exist  in  the  District,  especially  in  the  Bilari 
tahsil,  but  they  have  not  been  explored.  Amroha  and  Sambhal 
contain  some  fine  mosques  and  shrines,  and  the  former  has  also  a  few 
Hindu  remains.  Moradabad  city  dates  only  from  the  seventeenth 
century. 

There  are  15  towns  and  2,450  villages  in  the  District.     Population 

is  increasing  steadily,  though  variations  occur  in  different  areas  owing 

to  the  vicissitudes  of  the   seasons.      The   numbers       _       ,    . 

1  •  c  11  /   o     \        Population, 

at   the   four  enumerations  were  as  lollows :    (1072) 

1,122,357,  (1881)  r,i55»i73i  (l890  i,i79.398>_an_d  (i9°0  1,191, 993- 
There  are  six  iahslls — Moradabad,  Thakurdwara,  Bilari,  Sambhal, 
Amroha,  and  Hasanpur— each  named  from  its  head-quarters.  The 
principal  towns  are  the  municipalities  of  Moradabad,  Chandausi, 
Amroha,  and  Sambhal.  The  chief  statistics  of  population  in  1901 
are  shown  in  the  following  table : — 


424 


MORADABAD  DISTRICT 


Tahsil. 


Moradabad 
Thakurdwara 
Bilari 
Sambhal . 
Amroha   . 
Hasanpur 

District  total 


V 

a 

Number  of 

3   . 

w  aj 

■ 

c'5 

n 

v 

—  E 

c 

M 

rt 

rt 

u 

0 

< 

3 

> 

313 

298 

240 

1 

26l 

333 

0 
^ 

3S7 

469 

3 

466 

383 

2 

508 

547 

3 

53° 

2,2S5 

!5 

2,45° 

3 
c 
o 

Ph 


245,369 

116,814 
216,340 
245,886 
206,564 
161,020 

i,i9I>993 


<- 

°.si-  • 

0 

aJH 

0  S"3 

§E 

tjc  ;»  0 

t-  ^2   C     . 

SOO«» 

D   id  rt  U 

•3§ 

cent 
riati 
ulati 
reen 
ndl 

umb 
ons 
ead 
writ 

o-g. 

P- 

«  >  0- 

a. 

784 

+    1.9 

7,668 

487 

-  3-6 

1,605 

65O 

-  6.7 

5.°°3 

524 

+     O-I 

4.035 

539 

+  10-9 

4,467 

294 

+   4-8 

2,412 

521 

+    Li 

25,190 

About  64  per  cent,  of  the  total  are  Hindus  and  35  per  cent.  Musal- 
mans,  the  latter  being  a  high  proportion.  Christians  number  6,103, 
and  Aryas  2,834.  Moradabad  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  Arya  Samaj 
in  the  United  Provinces.  More  than  99  per  cent,  of  the  population 
speak  Western  Hindi,  the  prevailing  dialect  being  Hindustani. 

The  most  numerous  Hindu  caste  is  that  of  the  Chamars  (leather- 
dressers  and  cultivators),  who  form  more  than  21  per  cent,  of  the 
total.  Other  important  castes  are  Jats,  71,000;  Rajputs,  62,000; 
Brahmans,  44,000;  Khagis  (cultivators),  41,000;  and  Ahars  (agri- 
culturists), 37,000.  Jats  are  not  found  in  considerable  numbers  east 
of  this  District,  while  Ahars  and  Khagis  chiefly  reside  in  and  near 
it.  Bishnois,  a  small  caste  with  1,600  members,  which  was  originally 
a  religious  sect,  are  hardly  found  elsewhere  in  the  United  Provinces. 
More  than  one-third  (153,000)  of  the  Musalmans  are  so-called  Shaikhs, 
many  of  whom  are  descended  from  converts.  The  Julahas  (weavers), 
33,000;  Barhais  (carpenters),  23,000;  and  Telis  (oil-pressers),  16,000, 
are  also  largely  of  Hindu  origin.  The  Saiyids,  numbering  16,000,  are 
the  most  considerable  of  the  foreign  tribes.  About  62  per  cent,  of 
the  total  population  are  supported  by  agriculture,  more  than  6  per  cent, 
by  personal  services,  nearly  5  per  cent,  by  general  labour,  and  3  per 
cent,  by  weaving. 

Of  the  5,866  native  Christians  in  1901,  4,780  were  Methodists. 
The  American  Methodist  Church  commenced  work  in  1859,  and  the 
American  Reformed  Presbyterian  Church  in  1894. 

The  Ganges  khadar  is  raised  in  the  centre  and  escapes  ordinary 
floods,  but  the  lower  portions  are  liable  to  inundation  and  to  over- 
saturation.  This  tract  chiefly  produces  wheat,  rice, 
and  sugar-cane.  Above  the  khadar  is  a  broad  sandy 
tract,  consisting  of  ridges  separated  by  level  plains  and  minor  drainage 
channels.  The  land  is  poor  and  liable  to  waterlogging  in  wet  years, 
while  crops  fail  in  seasons  of  drought.  Wheat,  mixed  with  barley, 
and  bajra  are  the  chief  crops.  The  great  central  plain  is  a  fertile 
tract,  known  as  Katehr,  which  produces  wheat,  jowar,  bajra,  rice,  and 


Agriculture. 


AGRICULTURE 


425 


sugar-cane.  In  the  Ramganga  khddar  floods  frequently  occur,  and 
the  autumn  harvest  is  liable  to  great  loss ;  but  wheat,  rice,  and  sugar- 
cane are  grown.  Rice  is  the  principal  crop  grown  in  the  damp  sub- 
montane area  north-east  of  the  Ramganga.  In  good  years  irrigation 
is  hardly  required.  A  striking  feature  of  the  cultivation  is  the  distribu- 
tion of  manure  in  all  parts  of  a  village  where  sugar-cane  is  grown, 
instead  of  its  concentration  on  the  fields  near  the  village  site. 

The  ordinary  tenures  of  the  United  Provinces  are  found ;  but 
zanilnddri  mahdls  are  more  common  than  patt'idari,  and  bhaiyachara 
mahdls  are  rare.  A  large  number  of  separate  blocks  of  land  are  found 
in  the  Amroha  tahsll,  the  owners  of  which  have  no  connexion  with 
the  village  communities.  About  half  of  the  mahdls  in  the  same  tahsll 
are  revenue  free,  subject  to  a  peculiar  quit-rent  payable  to  Government. 
The  main  agricultural  statistics  for  1902-3 l  are  shown  below,  in 
square  miles  : — 


Tahsil. 

Total. 

Cultivated. 

Irrigated. 

Cultivable 
waste. 

Moradabad   . 

Thakurdwara 

Bilari    . 

Sambhal 

Amroha 

Hasanpur 

Total 

313 

240 

333 
469 

383 
547 

221 

164 
279 
399 
304 
315 

l9 
H 
34 
25 
19 
16 

41 
38 
21 
26 
34 
157 

2,285 

1,682 

127 

317 

Wheat  is  the  crop  most  largely  grown,  covering  599  square  miles, 
or  35  per  cent,  of  the  total  cultivated  area.  Rice  (152  square  miles), 
bdjra  (260),  barley  (160),  gram  (125),  and  jotvdr  (59),  are  also  important 
food-crops.  The  most  valuable  crop  is,  however,  sugar-cane,  grown 
on  70  square  miles.  Cotton,  oilseeds,  and  hemp  (san)  are  the  remain- 
ing products  of  importance. 

There  have  been  no  marked  improvements  in  agricultural  practice, 
and  no  increase  in  cultivation  in  recent  years.  The  area  double 
cropped  is  probably  increasing,  and  the  more  valuable  crops — wheat, 
sugar-cane,  and  rice — are  being  more  largely  grown.  The  cultivation 
of  poppy  is  spreading.  Advances  under  the  Agriculturists'  Loans  and 
Land  Improvement  Loans  Acts  are  rarely  taken.  The  total  amounted 
to  only  Rs.  56,000  between  1892  and  1904,  and  Rs.  45,000  of  this 
sum  was  advanced  in  two  unfavourable  seasons. 

The  cattle  bred  in  the  District  are  of  the  ordinary  inferior  typo. 
Something  has  been  done  to  improve  the  breed  of  horses  and  ponies, 
and  Government  maintains  one  stallion  and  the  District  board  six, 
besides  three  donkey  stallions  for  mule-breeding.  The  sheep  and  goats 
are  inferior. 

1  Later  figures  are  not  available,  owing  to  settlement  operations. 


426  MORADABAD   DISTRICT 

Masonry  wells  are  rarely  used  for  irrigation,  except  in  the  south  of 
the  rich  Katehr  tract ;  but  earthen  wells  lasting  for  a  single  harvest  can 
be  made  in  most  parts  of  the  District,  except  in  the  sandy  tract  above 
the  Ganges  khddar.  Out  of  121  square  miles  irrigated  in  1903-4,  wells 
supplied  89,  tanks  or  jhlls  18,  and  rivers  14.  In  drier  years  the  rivers 
are  more  largely  used. 

Kankar  or  nodular  limestone  is  the  only  mineral  product,  and  is 
used  for  metalling  roads  and  for  making  lime. 

The  chief  industry  in  the  District  is  sugar-refining,  which  is  carried 

on  in    many  places   after   native    methods.      Cotton   cloth  is   woven, 

especially  in  the  towns,  and  woollen  carpets  are  made 

ra  e.  ai\         in  a  few  places.     Moradabad  city  is  known  for  the 
communications.  *  J 

ornamental  brassware  produced  there,  and  other 
local  industries  are  the  pottery  of  Amroha  and  the  manufacture  of 
rough  glass  in  the  south-west  of  the  District,  where  reh  is  found. 
Cotton-weaving  is  said  to  be  declining.  There  are  four  cotton  gins 
and  presses  at  Chandausi,  besides  one  steam  press  and  several  hand 
presses  for  baling  hemp  (san). 

Agricultural  products  form  the  chief  exports,  sugar  being  the  most 
important,  followed  by  wheat,  rice  and  other  grain,  and  cotton.  A 
good  deal  of  the  trade  is  with  Calcutta,  but  the  old  trade  with  Delhi 
has  been  revived  by  a  railway  extension.  Salt,  tobacco,  metals,  and 
piece-goods  are  the  principal  imports.  The  largest  commercial  centre 
after  Moradabad  is  Chandausi,  and  there  are  several  smaller  flourish- 
ing market  towns. 

The  main  line  of  the  Oudh  and  Rohilkhand  Railway  passes  through 
the  north-east  of  the  District,  while  the  south  is  crossed  by  the  Bareilly- 
Allgarh  branch  through  Chandausi,  whence  another  line  runs  to 
Moradabad  city.  A  branch  from  Moradabad  to  Ghaziabad  on  the 
East  Indian  Railway  traverses  the  north-west  of  the  District.  Another 
branch  from  Gajraula  to  Chandpur  in  Bijnor  has  been  surveyed,  and 
a  branch  of  the  Rohilkhand  and  Kumaun  Railway  is  being  constructed 
from  Moradabad  to  Ramnagar.  There  are  118  miles  of  metalled  roads 
and  473  miles  of  unmetalled  roads.  The  cost  of  all  but  52  miles  of 
the  former  is  met  from  Local  funds,  but  the  Public  Works  department 
has  charge  of  all  the  metalled  roads.  Avenues  of  trees  are  maintained 
on  119  miles.  The  main  route  is  that  from  Bareilly  through  Morad- 
abad city  to  the  Ganges  and  on  to  Meerut.  Communications  are,  on 
the  whole,  not  good  beyond  the  few  metalled  roads. 

The  District  has  suffered  repeatedly  from  scarcity,  but  has  escaped 

visitations  of  great  severity.     In  1803-4  distress  was  chiefly  due  to 

.  losses  caused  by  the  Maratha  invasions  and  the  raids 

of  the  Pindari  freebooter,  Amir  Khan.     The  second 

famine  after  cession,  in  1825,  was  aggravated  by  rack-renting,  and  the 


AD  MINIS  TRA  TIOA r  427 

throwing  of  lands  out  of  cultivation  by  landholders  in  view  of  the 
approaching  settlement.  In  the  famine  of  1837-8,  Moradabad,  like 
all  Rohilkhand  Districts,  suffered  less  than  the  Doab.  The  famine 
of  1 860-1  was  aggravated  by  the  effects  of  the  Mutiny.  Relief  works 
were  undertaken,  but  this  was  not  among  the  Districts  where  distress 
was  most  intense.  Relief  was  again  necessary  in  1868-9  and  m 
1877-8,  but  the  number  of  workers  never  became  high.  In  the  latest 
famine  of  1896-7  the  labouring  classes  were  distressed,  but  the  cultiva- 
tors suffered  comparatively  little,  and  the  number  on  relief  was  only 
about  7,000. 

The  Collector  is  usually  assisted  by  a  member  of  the  Indian  Civil 
Service,  and  by  five  Deputy-Collectors  recruited  in  .   . 

India.     A  tahsilddr  is  stationed  at  the  head-quarters 
of  each  tahsil. 

There  are  five  District  Munsifs.  The  District  Judge,  an  Additional 
Judge,  and  the  Sub-Judge  have  civil  jurisdiction  over  the  neighbouring 
District  of  Bijnor.  Both  Bijnor  and  Budaun  are  included  in  the 
Sessions  Judgeship  of  Moradabad.  Serious  crime  is  heavy,  and 
offences  against  public  tranquillity  and  crimes  of  violence  are  especially 
common.  Religious  differences,  both  between  Hindus  and  Musal- 
mans,  and  between  the  Sunni  and  Shiah  sects  of  the  latter,  have 
caused  serious  riots  from  time  to  time.  Female  infanticide  was 
formerly  suspected,  but  no  repressive  measures  are  now  necessary. 

At  cession  in  1801  Rohilkhand  was  divided  into  two  Districts 
called  Moradabad  and  Bareilly,  the  former  including,  besides  its 
present  area,  the  District  of  Bijnor,  parts  of  Budaun,  Bareilly,  and 
the  Rampur  State.  Bijnor  was  made  a  separate  subdivision  called 
Northern  Moradabad  in  1817,  and  Budaun  was  taken  away  in  1822. 
The  early  settlements  were  for  short  periods,  and  proprietary  rights 
were  only  gradually  recognized,  the  system  being  practically  a  farm  to 
the  highest  bidder.  A  feature  of  the  early  settlements  was  the  inquiry 
into  the  terms  on  which  the  very  numerous  revenue-free  grants  were 
held.  The  District  was  surveyed  between  1831  and  1836,  and  the  first 
regular  settlement  under  Regulation  IX  of  1833  was  carried  out 
between  1840  and  1843.  It  involved  a  summary  inquiry  into  rents 
actually  paid  in  each  village ;  but  the  '  assets '  assumed  as  the  basis  of 
the  assessment  were  very  roughly  estimated,  and  a  good  deal  of  reliance 
was  placed  on  the  reports  of  the  hd/um^os  as  to  the  annual  value  of 
villages.  The  revenue  assessed  amounted  to  11-5  lakhs,  which  rose  to 
12  lakhs  during  the  currency  of  settlement  owing  to  additions  to  the 
District  area.  In  the  Thakurdwara  tahsil,  which  is  dependent  on  rice 
cultivation,  a  succession  of  bad  seasons  ruined  the  zamlndars,  who  had 
fallen  into  the  clutches  of  a  usurer,  and  from  1S60  to  1863  the  tahsil 
was  taken  under  direct  management.    Elsewhere  the  settlement  worked 

VOL.  xvii.  e  e 


423 


moradabad  district 


well.  The  next  revision  was  carried  out  between  1872  and  1880. 
Soils  were  carefully  classified,  either  according  to  the  estimate  of  their 
productive  value  formed  by  the  Settlement  officer,  or  according  to  their 
physical  characteristics.  Rates  were  then  ascertained  for  application  to 
these.  In  some  parts  of  the  District  cash  rents  were  paid,  and  these 
were  carefully  analysed  and  rent  rates  were  selected,  which  were  applied 
with  necessary  corrections  to  the  large  area  of  land  paying  rent  in  kind. 
The  revenue  fixed  was  14-3  lakhs,  amounting  to  half  the  assumed 
'  assets.'  This  has  been  raised  by  small  alterations  to  14-6  lakhs,  which 
falls  at  an  incidence  of  Rs.  1-3  per  acre,  varying  from  R.  o-6  to  Rs.  i-8 
in  different  parts.     A  new  revision  of  settlement  commenced  in  1905. 

The  total  collections  on  account  of  land  revenue  and  of  revenue 
from  all  sources  have  been,  in  thousands  of  rupees  : — 


1 880- 1. 

1890-1. 

1 900-1. 

1903-4- 

Land  revenue    . 
Total  revenue    . 

13,36 
18,14 

13,88 
22,09 

24,48 

14,61 
24,J7 

There  are  four  municipalities — Moradabad,  Amroha,  Sambhal, 
and  Chandausi — and  eleven  towns  are  administered  under  Act  XX  of 
1856.  Beyond  the  limits  of  these,  local  affairs  are  managed  by  the 
District  board,  which  in  1903-4  had  an  income  of  i-6  lakhs  and  an 
expenditure  of  1-7  lakhs.  The  expenditure  included  Rs.  92,000  on 
roads  and  buildings. 

There  are  20  police  stations  in  the  District ;  and  the  Superintendent 
of  police  has  a  force  of  4  inspectors,  100  subordinate  officers,  and 
480  constables.  Municipal  and  town  police  number  284,  and  rural 
and  road  police  2,285.  There  is  a  police  training  school  at  Morad- 
abad city.  The  District  jail  contained  a  daily  average  of  393  prisoners 
in  1903. 

The  population  of  Moradabad  is  not  distinguished  for  its  literacy, 
and  in  1901  only  2  per  cent,  of  the  total  (4  males  and  0-3  females) 
could  read  and  write.  The  number  of  public  schools  rose  from  184 
with  5,549  pupils  in  1 880-1  to  290  with  9,167  pupils  in  1900-1.  In 
1903-4  there  were  301  such  institutions  with  10,794  pupils,  of  whom 
1,280  were  girls,  besides  293  private  schools  with  4,122  pupils.  Five 
of  the  public  schools  were  managed  by  Government,  and  139  by  the 
District  and  municipal  boards.  The  total  expenditure  on  education 
was  Rs.  50,000,  of  which  Rs.  40,000  was  provided  by  Local  funds 
and  Rs.  9,000  from  fees.  A  normal  school  for  teachers  is  maintained 
at  Moradabad  city,  which  is  also  the  head-quarters  of  an  Inspector 
and  an  Inspectress  of  schools. 

There  are  13  hospitals  and  dispensaries,  with  accommodation  for 
116  in-patients.     In  1903  the  number  of  cases  treated  was  160,000,  of 


MORADABAD    CITY  429 

whom  3,500  were  in-patients,  and  7,000  operations  were  performed. 
The  expenditure  amounted  to  Rs.  16,000,  chiefly  met  from  Local 
funds. 

About  41,000  persons  were  vaccinated  in  1903-4,  representing  34  per 
1,000  of  population.  Vaccination  is  compulsory  only  in  the  munici- 
palities. 

[District  Gazetteer  (1883,  under  revision) ;  E.  B.  Alexander,  Settle- 
ment Report  (\2&x).~\ 

Moradabad  Tahsil. — North-eastern  tahsil  of  Moradabad  District, 
United  Provinces,  conterminous  with  the  pargana  of  the  same  name, 
lying  between  280  41'  and  290  8'  N.  and  780  42'  and  790  E.,  with  an 
area  of  313  square  miles.  Population  increased  from  240,795  in  1891 
to  245,369  in  1 901.  There  are  298  villages  and  three  towns,  including 
Moradabad  City  (population,  75,128),  the  District  and  ta/fo7/ head- 
quarters. The  demand  for  land  revenue  in  1903-4  was  Rs.  2,58,000, 
and  for  cesses  Rs.  47,000.  The  density  of  population,  784  persons  per 
square  mile,  is  the  highest  in  the  District,  owing  to  the  inclusion  of  the 
city.  A  large  part  of  the  tahsil  consists  of  the  valley  of  the  Ramganga 
and  is  liable  to  inundation,  but  it  is  generally  fertile  and  irrigation  is 
easy  when  required.  In  1902-3  the  area  under  cultivation  was  221 
square  miles,  of  which  only  19  were  irrigated.  Wells  supply  about 
half  the  irrigated  area,  and  tanks  or  j'hils  and  rivers  the  remainder 
in  equal  proportions. 

Moradabad  City. — Head-quarters  of  the  District  and  tahsil  of  the 
same  name,  United  Provinces,  situated  in  2  8°  51'  N.  and  7 8°  46'  E., 
on  the  Delhi-Bareilly  road,  and  on  the  main  line  of  the  Oudh  and 
Rohilkhand  Railway,  868  miles  by  rail  from  Calcutta  and  1,087  fr°m 
Bombay.  Population  is  rising  steadily.  The  numbers  at  the  four 
enumerations  were  as  follows:  (1872)  62,417,(1881)69,352,(1891) 
72,921,  and  (1901)  75,128.  Hindus  numbered  31,141  in  190 1  and 
Musalmans  42,472.  The  city  was  founded  by  Rustam  Khan,  governor 
of  Katehr  under  Shah  Jahan,  and  named  after  the  ill-fated  Murad 
Bakhsh,  the  emperor's  son.  From  this  time  Moradabad  takes  the 
place  of  Sambhal  as  the  seat  of  the  local  governor.  Early  in  the 
eighteenth  century  it  was  for  a  few  years  ruled  by  Nizam-ul-Mulk,  who 
afterwards  distinguished  himself  as  Nizam  of  the  Deccan.  A  later 
governor  of  Moradabad  attempted  to  arrest  the  growing  power  of  All 
Muhammad,  leader  of  the  Rohillas,  but  was  defeated  and  slain  ;  and  by 
1740  Moradabad  was  included  in  the  new  State  of  Rohilkhand.  Its 
subsequent  history  is  that  of  the  District,  which  has  already  been 
related.  In  1774  the  Rohilla  possessions  fell  into  the  power  of  Oudh, 
and  in  1801  were  ceded  to  the  British.  Four  years  later  Amir  Khan, 
the  Pindari  leader  of  part  of  Holkar's  forces,  dashed  through  Rohil- 
khand,  but  was  foiled  in  his   attempt  to   plunder    the   Government 


43o  MORADABAD    CITY 

treasury  by  Mr.  Leycester,  the  Collector,  who  shut  himself  up  in  the 
courthouse,  defended  by  two  small  field-pieces. 

Moradabad  is  built  on  a  ridge  forming  the  right  bank  of  the  Ram- 
ganga,  and  drains  naturally  into  that  river.  The  Jama  Masjid,  or  chief 
mosque,  which  stands  high  on  the  river  bank,  is  a  handsome  building, 
erected  in  1631  by  Rustam  Khan.  Close  by  are  the  ruins  of  the  fort 
built  by  the  same  governor.  The  city  contains  a  municipal  hall,  a 
tahsill,  male  and  female  dispensaries,  and  a  mission  church.  Part  of 
the  barracks  of  the  old  cantonment,  which  is  no  longer  a  station  for 
troops,  is  used  as  a  police  training  school,  where  candidates  for 
employment  as  sub-inspectors  and  newly  appointed  Assistant  Super- 
intendents pass  a  period  of  probation,  the  school  being  in  charge  of 
a  selected  District  Superintendent  assisted  by  an  inspector.  A  poor- 
house  and  leper  asylum  were  built  near  the  railway  station  in  1881. 
Moradabad  is  the  head-quarters  of  an  Inspector  and  an  Inspectress  of 
schools,  and  is  the  central  station  of  the  American  Methodist  and 
Reformed  Presbyterian  Missions  in  the  District. 

The  municipality  was  constituted  in  1863.  During  the  ten  years 
ending  1901  the  income  averaged  Rs.  66,000  and  the  expenditure 
Rs.  64,000.  In  1903-4  the  income  was  i-i  lakhs,  chiefly  derived  from 
octroi  (Rs.  81,000)  and  municipal  property  (Rs.  25,000).  The  expendi- 
ture was  1-2  lakhs,  including  conservancy  (Rs.  29,000),  public  safety 
(Rs.  22,000),  and  administration  (Rs.  11,000). 

The  trade  largely  consists  of  sugar,  wheat,  and,  in  good  years,  rice, 
which  are  exported  by  rail.  The  recent  extension  of  direct  railway 
communication  with  Delhi,  which  has  long  been  one  of  the  important 
markets  for  the  produce  of  Rohilkhand,  has  favoured  commerce.  The 
principal  manufacture  of  Moradabad  is  brassware,  some  of  which  is  highly 
ornamental.  Formerly  brass  articles  were  plated  with  tin  and  patterns 
were  then  engraved,  so  that  the  pattern  showed  the  brass  ground.  In 
place  of  tin  a  coating  of  lac  is  now  generally  used,  the  lac  being  coloured 
black,  blue,  or  red.  Cotton  is  also  woven,  and  some  calico-printing 
is  done ;  but  both  the  brass  and  cotton  industries  are  declining  in 
prosperity.  The  municipality  manages  three  schools  and  aids  twelve 
others  with  1,458  pupils.  The  District  school  has  274  boys,  and  the 
Arya  Samaj,  the  Muhammadan  Association,  and  a  private  school 
educate  about  450  more.  A  normal  school  for  training  teachers  is  also 
maintained  here.  There  are  twenty-three  printing  presses,  about  half  of 
which  issue  newspapers,  but  none  is  important. 


Oxford  :   Printed  at  the  Clarendon  Press  by  HORACE  Hart,  M.A. 


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