MT. LOGAN TRIP, 19 23
u
Doubtless most of you know more or less about the Alps, the Canadian
Hookies, the Yosemite, and other far distant resorts that are popular
with tourists. Perhpas -a-few of you have an intimate personal acquain¬
tance with some such remote regions and most of you probably know
soemthing about them, at least in a general way, from printed descriptions
or from having heard illustrated lectures on them by people who have
been there . I think many of us are apt to have abetter general knowledge
/
of much advertised remote localities than we have a&efei some that are
comparatively near, but rarely or never visited by the ow&m&y tourist.
,One such little known locality that I have had an opportunity of visiting
five times within 20 years is the Gaspd Peninsula in eastern Canada.
This peninsula lies on the south side of the St. Lawrence river,
just across from the Labrador peninsula. It is bounded on the east by
the Gulf of St. Lawrence and on the south by the Bale des Chaleurs and
New Brunswick. At its southwestern corner the peninsula is flinly 50
miles, as the crow flies, from the northeastern corner of the state of
Maine— -a distance of but a few miles more than from Providence to
Boston. Consequently it is not remote; nor is it inaccessible.
The peninsula includes the &hree most eastern counties of the
Province of Quebec teab-44-e on the south side of the St. Lawrence river -
viz. ; Matane, ^onaventure, and GaspS. It comprises between 12.000 and
13,000 square miles— an area about equal to that of Mass, and Conn,
combined. It is armroxiraatelv 180 miles long: and 90 miles wide in its
widest
Much of the north shorelis composed of tagged river canyons, steep
slopes as* sheer cliffs which occasionally rise to a height of 1000 or
1200 feet, including the talus slope at the base. These heights are
correlated with cold and deep waters, occasionally more than 1000 ft
2
deep only a short distance of f)f shore, The south shore has a much more
gentle slope with extensile shoals urunning out a long distance into the
c operatively war* and sfeaUftw waters <bf tge Eaie des Ohaleurs.
Small pity for him, he sailed away
From a leaking ship in Ohaleurs bay
He sailed away from a sinking wreck
With his own towns people on her deck
*********
Old Floyd Ireson, for his herd heart
Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart
By the women of Marblehead
Topographically, most of the peninsula is an elevated plateau ranging
in altitude from 800 to 1500 feet. This is ddeply and roughly cut by
the hundreds of salmon and trout filled wrvers and brooks, the cold and
limpid waters of which begun their process of erosion many centuries
ago, and the end is not yet.
Lengthwise through this plateap at a distance ranging from 12 to
2o miles from the St. Lawrence runs the crest of the Shickshodk Mts.
(formerly known as the Hotre Lame Mts.). This range forms a gigantic
backbone through the peninsula and in a general way represents the
height of land and the dividing line between the St. Lawrence and the
Ohaleurs water-sheds. Exceptions to this statement will be noted in the
case of the Gap O^at and the Ste. Anne rivers, both of which rise on
the south side of the range and flow northward into the St. Lawrence.
\ t S-yHJ
The Explanation of this, as geven by geologists, is that the rivers-atsed
\ \ \ / \ yP\
QuXtL dated the mountains, the latter hav^ing been produced by a slow upthrust
which was not sufficiently rapid to prevent the rivers maintaining
their channels during the uplift.
Geologically, the crest of the main range of the Shickshocks is
pre-cambrian for a varying width of 3 to 9 miles; nothh of this to the
St. Lawrence is a broad Cambrian area, and to the southward to the
Baie des Ghaleurs there appear in succession Silurian, devonian,
Silurian, and metamorjahic overlaid by lov/er carboniferous. Throughout
the whole region there are numerous outcrops of granite, serpentine,
and dolerite or trap.
The principal peaks along the Shickshock range are Mt, Bayfield
(3500? ft.), Mt, Logan (4100 ft.), to the west and east respectively
h u <rp
of the Gap Ghat river, M&. Albert (4100? ft.), and Mt. Tabletop (4250 Ft.),
tO' the west and east respectively of the Ste. Anne river. Of these
four highest peaks I have visited Mt. Albert three times, Mt. Tabletop
once, and Mt. Logan once. It may oe of passing interest to know that
4k
Wi
<37-
A <
if
} A
■S
N.
ft
3 vn
«F
2
the highest point of land in the GaspiS penindqla) is named Botanist’s Domd
■-.the main dome of. Mt. Tabletop
on a map recently published by the Canadian government. It is stated
if J
V, 2
X -T
^ k
t 4 n
i ,
that it is so named to commemorate the visit Qf a party of American
, k
botanists who visited this hitherto unexplored region in 1906 and made ” y
0^1 v?'
extensive collections there. This party of botanists consisted, of Prof.
"?-• ok. i jtf ’*■> k ). ^ tk pit** "• 7 f.( fiM-v i£± e (wu&W
fernald and myself T According to the same map the small lake which
was swarming with small trout,('on the shore of which we camped, at the
west base of Mt. TabletopVhs named Lac de* Americains, also commemorating cwv
visit there .Aa \ \ a 4-
The interior of the peninsula is entirely uninhabited, so far as
human beings are concerned, and largely unexplored. Back from the shore
it is densely wooded, mainly with white spruce, fir, arbor-vitae, white
pine (and occaional red pine), rock maple, white and yellow birch,
<r
poplar, black ash, larch, etc. Along the shore, except in the extreme
northeastern portion, there are scattered farms and small villages,
the majority being on the south shore along the Baie des Ghaleurs.
The easiest way, even today, to reach the interior is $»y canoe, although
along some of the larger ?iver valleys there are at the present time
winter lumber roads, over which one can sometimes ride on a woods buck-
4
board in the summer if he needs exercisji, but he will always prefer
to walk for comfort, at least after he has given this particular brand
of exercise a very brief trial. Since 1904 1 have made more than a
Cm. oju
dozen trips up various riversAinto the interior; of these all but two
-t&JMX bwt> \rCnX Lc^cL,
were made by canoe; a«d-bet^-of^th«se lumber road trips w&re made during
the past summer (1923).
The interior of the peninsula is but little known, and the Canadian
government has no^ maps of the graater part of it. On £heir
best maps large areas, often only 12 miles from the shore and occasionally
only 6, are marked "unexplored". These great areas are, except for
the rivers that are lumbered, generally left, entirely blank on the map.
The small villages along the shore are inhabited mainly by french
catholics, with a mixture of Scotch and Irish in some localities.
Everybody speaks the characteristic french-Canadian patois, and few
understand or speak English, or even pure Parisian french.
Geological and geographical explorations into the interior of the
peninsula have bean limited in scope, as well as few and far between.
The principal explorations have been by Logan in 1844, Bichardson in
bQ ( fit
1857, Low in 1882-4, and Coleman in 1918. Colemans report was very
recently ptolished (i.e., 1922).
An extremely interesting feature, clearly demonstrated and specially
emphasized in Coleman’s report published in 1822, is the fact that all
of the high summits of the Shickshock Mts. ave entirely unglaciated—
a fact that we knew from our work of nearly 20 years ago, but as we
were not geologists our word was of little value until backed up by the
observations of trained geologists. According to Coleman glacial geolo¬
gists are now convinced that the great Labrador ice sheet never got
of
5
covered the entire Gasp6 peninsula, with the exception of the higher
aranodafos summits, originated locally, as shown by the transported
boulders and the glacial striae wimjh radiate in all directions from
the higher peaks..
In 1844 (80 years ago) Sir William Logan made a geological and
geographical trip up the Gap Ghat river and across the peninsula to the
Baie des Chaleurs. He explored a mountain which he called in his report
Mt. Bayfield, also another still larger one to the east of the river
which has since been known as Mt. Logan. Ever since then - that is,
for nearly 80 years— -Mt. Logan has been so© thing of a myth, or geo¬
graphical will-t)-the-wisp. Few people kBew anything about it beyond
its name and apparently nobddy had been there, except perhaps a few
hunters, or at least i|- they had been there they did not know it a a
Mt. Logan.
In 1918, A. P. Coleman, the present Canadian geolegist, went up the
Cap Chat river to explore the Mt, Logan region, but violent storms, fog,
and cold weather^ drove him back, and although he supposed he had seen
Mt, Logan in the distance his own description shows conclusively that
the mountain he saw through a fift in the fog and rain/was located some
five miles west of the real Mt. Logan, as we now know it.
In July, 1922, Profs. Femald and Peas© (both botanists) had five
days to spare at Cap C^at and thqy made a two days trip up the river
(and two days to ret’arn) to see if they could find the long lost Mt.
Logan. They went some five miles beyond the farthest point visited by
Coleman in 1918 and located the mountain that Coleman described and
called Mt. Logan. They, too, were driven back by violent storms of
rain, hail, snow and wind; but before being driven out of the mountains
they had a., glimpse through a rift in the clouds of a still higher mount¬
ain scj&a! three miles beyond where they were able ^to go. and across a
6
deep valley. This mountain they concluded from Coleman's report was an
unnamed mountain; this they later called Mt. Pease,
The fleeting glimpse of this high moutnain, together with the very
interesting plants collected in the few hours on the one day th&y had
in the region resulted in Pernald and Pease organizing a botanical
expedition to this region in July, 1923. 1 was a member of this partji,
and this is the trip that I shall tell you sorathing abut at this time.
The other members of the party were Prof. Pernald of Harvard (in charge).
Prof. Pease of the Univ. of Illinois, Dr. Dodge of Harvard (who was
^ Tv-C- /CP {A- ■
presddent^of the K.-1 . g.iJ.C-. inl921 ) , Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Griscom of
New York O^ty (the latter assistant curator of birds in the Amer. Mus.
of Nat. Hist . ) , and Mr. Smith, a Harvard student. Each member of the
party was assigned(as their speciality certain general types of work;
my own was photography, map making, and the collection of parasitic
fungi and mosses.
Briefly stated, the trip resulted geographically (1) in securing
l
conclusive evidence that Coleman's "Mt. Logan" was an unnamed mountain
which, notwithstanding my protest, the leaders of our 1923 trip insisted
on calling Mt. Collins, because 1 happened to have done c^eedrderarcrfce
exploring on it; (2) that the high mountain 4 or 5 miles to the eastward,
called Mt. Pease in 1922, was the real Mt. Logan: and (3) that beyond
Mt. Logan was a tceraendous cirque-like basin with walls about 1000 ft.
high (apparently containing one or two patches of perpetual snow), the
exi stance e-f which seems not to have been known to anybody, so far as
we could learn at the time or later. This hatsxn weAcalled Pease Basin,
-p, v
after Prof. Pease wno did most of the explora44-e» in it.
Logan's description of the mountain, as originally published, which
\
Coleman said was vague and erroneous, is nolr/perfectly clear to us, and
accurate, too. To Coleman, however, who had wrongly identified the
\
?
mountain, Logan's description naturally seemed inaccurate, as the two
mountains are quite different. So far as we eauld learn our party
of 1923 is the first party engaged in scientific work that has ever
ascended or explored Mt. Logan sin^ce its discovery by Sir William Logan
in 1 844-— 80 years ago.
‘Hie botanical results of the trip are not yet fully known as many
plants are still:] undetermined. it is known, however, that the party
got scores of. species new to science, nearly all of which have their
nearest re knOwn-relStiYes in the Rocky or Selkirk Mts., rather than
anywhere in. the east except1, a few on the unglaciated regions of Canada
and in the far north.
You may be interested in a brief description of our equipment,
which xs was not materially different from the usual equpment on a trip
of this sort.
Certain common staples such as potatoes, eggs, canned beans, pork,
ham, bacon, hard bread, maple syrup, condensed^ milk, cheese, etc., we
obtained at the last village before going into the woods. But spedqal
foods were shipped from Boston to Ste. Anne des Monts via boat from
Montreal. This shipment comprised such things as chocolate, lentils,
dried prunes, raisins, grapenuts, klim, figs, dried beef, ete.
/ £
Most of these were obtained ahead of -time- and hauled Smiles into
the wooas a week or two before we arrived, and were stored in a locked
xjaArv*'
log camp, which became our base camp or depot camp. We went some >5“
miles further into the mountains, occasionally sending back to the locked
camp for more supplies.
- or shelter we had four tents, two w.p. silk (so-called, which were x&fck®:
cotton), and two w.p. khaki',,, One was generally used to shelter our
presses and plants. For clothing most of us wore woollen under
8
khaki. For footwear a few of the party swore hobnailed boots but most
of us wore rubber-soled work shoes ( a heavy-soled canvas-topped sneak)
We always had to carry a w.p. coat of slicker for use over these at a
moments notice, for the rain or hail often came unannounced. At night
we comaealy wore all the clothes we had and then failed to keep
1 o Jr
warm, for the temperature frequently fell^to near the freezing point,
(on three or four occasions below the freezing point) and we had nothing
but a single thickness of w/p. cotton cloth between us and the rain,
hail, snow and frigid mountain gales, as the case might be. Only on
■2.
errs nights, as I recall it, did I go to bed with less clothing on than
I wore in the daytime, and /that was our worst nights with the midges.
When on trips away from camp we always want in small groups of two
1
or three, each c .< m-ben carrying a camera a-s well -as collecting
am each -neater a knapsack, emergency rations, matches, a compass,
and a whistle. Before starting into the woods we arranged a code of
whistle signals and each one, including the "guides'*, always carried
a whistle. One .whistle meant "where are you", and the reply was one
“ \
whistle. Two whistles meant "coming". Three whistles meant "help".
After we had been in the woods a day or two v/e discovered that one
very important signal had been overlooked, addordingly we added four
it
whistles, which meant "grub is ready". This signal was repeated.
I am glad to say that the signal for "help" had to be sounded only once
on the entire trip, and that almost the last day of the trip. It was
followed by aftexeiting hour. It happened about this way. ^
< Y^JU bvoJct LU K-+ /
We were returning from the Mt. Albert trip^and'Jabout to make the
¥
trip from Plaque a Maladev(at the foot of the Mt. Albert trail) to
cbvY/w l/Vv
Grande Fosse, a /di stance- &f some five-mi les, where v/e were to stay over
night , and then proceed the next day on a 28 mile hdke to the seacoast ,
9
The sled had teen packed with our dunnage and a group of 3 of our party-
had started on the trail down river. A second group of 3 (including
myself) started a few minutes later, leaving the ghird group of 3 to
follow immediately. This third group was made up of our guides and driver,
with the pack sled and horse frhich had been left^at the foot of the
mountain^, 1 had tramped perhaps a quarter of a mile down the trail when
I heard faintly what 1 thought was three whistles back of me. I stopped
and listened. The signal was repeated - unmistakably three whistles.
I immediately replied with 3 whistles and tried to relay the signal to
the group ahead but failed to get any response. We all dropped our
packs beside the trail and the two men with me (Dodge and Mackenzie) -it
hurried back while I rushed ahead to get the signal to the 3 ahead before
they had gone too far. After hurrying down the trail for,* half mile ear-
-ee I finally got the signal to them and when 1 was certain of their reply
I turned back to find out what was the trouble.
It seems that as the feorse started across a low narrow corduroy
bridge over a quagmire one of the runners on the sled bumped against a
projecting log so hard that the horse was thrown sidewise off the narrow
bridge into the quagmire. When I ferst saw the horse she was on her side,
two feet on tap of the bridge and two underneath it and most of her body
submerged in the watery mud, but her head held above it. She was kicking
in a fashion that would have do.e credit to an old-fashioned threshing
machine ap'd the mud was landing on everything and everybody within
ten feet of her. Before I got back to the scene of the accident the men
had succeeded in removing the harness and unhitching the sled, wrhich
fortunately eemained on the bridge. It took us more than a half hour
to get that horse out of the mudhole. We got ropes around her legs
l W-
and tried to pull her ©way from the bridge ©stf we all feared she would
10
break a leg in threshing about, if indeed she had not already done so.
In this we had poor saccess and finally the bridge had to be chppped away,
log by log. We then got an alpine rope around
■pcFiied her a foot or towards the shore, then loosened up to allow her
to breath again. This operation was repeated several times before we
got her near enough to the shore to allow her to get on her feet and
clamber ftstoere out of the mud^>4 v Somewhat later I realized that probably
no smajbl factor in getting that horse out of the quagmire was the fact
that in her violent spasms of kicking she had succeeded in kijlcking out
such a large quantity of mud that -the bog was not as high as when she
fell in, and much of the mud landed on the members of our party, at least
so it seemed when we had time to scrape the mud off ourselves. After
scraping the mud off the horse we were very agreeably suprised to find
that there was only one small insignificant scratch to be found. About
the time we made this discovery the horse decided that she still had
life enough to run away, which she forthwith attempted to do. Fortunate¬
ly Dr. Dodge, who was brought up on a farm and knew horses, intercepted
her and held on to her nose long enough to choke off her wind, which
seemed to effectually discouraged her ambition to leave us in fit hurry.
Insect jjests:-
The principal insect pests are the Adirondack Black Fly (Simulium
molestum), the midge (Geratopogon spp.), the mosquito (Culex spp.),
the moose-fly (Hadmatooia alcis), and the deer fly (Chrysops spp. and
allied genera).
The black fly is usually the most troiiblesome . On warm quiet days,
particularly in burned-over lowland and above timber line they attack
you in swam#. At such times fly-dopes are of &c avail. Perhaps the
dope may be very obnoxious to the individual fly, gut there are such
11
f
swarms of them that the ones in the vahguard are pushed toy those in the
rear into the dope on your face and the latter is entirely wiped off in
a very few minutes, and the 1000’s of flies not in the vahguard then
proceed to get/uown to the business of biting a microscopec junk out of
your face, if you will allow it. We wereportunate in 1923 in not exper-
iencing xx any days when the balckflies were really;iabundant, as it xa
rained much of the time, or ax was too cold for them. Some years ago
in this same region I estimated the number of black flies on the inside
of my small tent near the top of Mt. albert, and found the number to be
more than 150,000. I did this estimating inside my cheese-cloth canopy-—
the flies Abeing mostly outside the canopy. 1 will, however, say one
complimentary thing for the black fly, the moose fly, and the deer fly.
They go to bed at sundown and are pests only in the daytime.
Not so v/Jdjh the midge and mosquito: Oh no:- They seemingly are on
duty about 25 hours each day when the weather is warm and not too windy.
They observe no union hours and apparently are indifferent as to the
refined human etiquette of making social calls. I have never found the
mosquito very troublesome in the Gaspe region, at least not as compared
with the balck fly and midge. The latter, as most of you doubtless know
is a t^iny almost microscopic winged insect which under favorable coudtions
of warmth, sultriness, and undergrowth come in far greater swarms than the
black flyes. They are also known as minges. The indians call them
"No see ’urns" in allusion to their small size, and the French Canadians
call them ?,,brule:rs** in allusion to the intense burning sensation caused
by their bites. The best protection 1 have found against these tiny
insects (and ajtl other insects) is a sewed-up chiffon automobile veil
over a wide brimmed hat for head protection, and gloves for the hands in
12
the daytimt. At night a closely woven cheese-cloth canopy-bag fitted
to the tent and. sufficiently large to permit sleeping inside is essential.
Allimembers of our party were told to provide cheese-cloth canopies
of this sort, but one member who apparently had never encountered a real
/
swarm of midges thought that fine bobbinett woud do just as.well and
would look better. It certainly did look better, but after a few
nights of punishment he was not. jfuite as enthusiastic about its good
looks and lack of efficiency.
The mosquito is familiar to all of you. in Gaspe she had the same
frjesindly feeling for a human being as elsewhere, only here she brings
along the whole family and you soon have— ar feeiiag-of ' persona
vae* rt to each one of them.
Moose-flies and deer-flies do not ordiixarily come in swarms, but they
are large enough and persistent enough to partially make up for lack of
numbers. They commonly come as individuals and stick by you untiljjyou
succeed in annihilating one of than, whj6|ph may be soon or not so soon,
(usually the latter), and then according to my experience two others
come to see what it is all about. 1 have often wondered if it was not
wiser to let one fly bitjtyou rather than to kill him and get two others.
Game and fish:
Game and fish are abundant in the interior. Caribou, formerly roamed
cj- W ^
i~€>
the region^and perhaps ^they do now, but I have never seen one/ although
Z MTV* ' '
»n— Carmen., yww-1 aaw .&a$y;of their cast off antlers which.could not have
, ~ n f\
been ^mo re than a -f ew years^ old. Moose are common and the principal
large game. We have encc uttered Aon various occasions, including our
trip of 1923. Some years ago on Tabletop Mt. I saw 4 moose at one time
in a small pond on the tableland. Doubtless others were in the woods
near by. Bears are altogetherpoo common. We have seen signs of them
13
everywhere we have been, and have seen several woon after they had been
MvU,
Killed, but 1 have never seen a ■ssbr’W bear in the Gaspe peninsula.
probably because of the welllknown fact that bears are perhaps the
slickest animals in the wwods to keep out'Of man’s way. Deer are
frequently seen. The Canada Lynx is also more or less abundant. 1 well
remember pa early morning seme years ago in ascending the Ste. Anne river
in a canoe, that 4s we farxesncxnaxrsxr rounded a curve we saw a flock
of ducks swimming aoout in a quite pool ahead. They immediately took
flight. We then noticed a huge lynx crouching on the shore, evidently
waiting for the ducks to come within his readh. He slowly raised himself
and looked aronnd to see what had scared his bradkfast away. He e^i^enbdy—
wers on the point of asking what business we had in depriving him of his
Dreakiast, dirt thought better of it and leaped over an old log and into
the thick underbmish. Porcupines, rabbits, squirrels, mice, shrews, etc.
also are there and d oubtless many others animals less common, which we
did not see. The spruce partridge is the most common game bird. We
had many of them to eat. Salmon and trout are very abundant and of
e jAk”1
good size. Some years ago we a salmon that weighed more than 30 lbs.
rj (fX fa*****'
ttiitXjnBnig In 1923 we h d one given us by some salmon fisherman that ^
weighed 12 1/2 lbs. Most of the ^t rout range from ^ to 5 lbs each.
On most of the rivers the fishing and hunting rights are leased outright
by the government, but on several of our trips we have had, pemission of
A A
the leasee to fish and hunt for food only. V-'. V’W- S-J'WatXt. 'ici ^
tWj I c c,t.gVvv> *a ,
^ (JiM, ^ U-W | VuWC5 . / , yf*|\x..vO V^-f VMaI
[Extracts from diary of J.F.C.]
July 6, 1923. Cloudy. Bainy and cold. Got up at Cap Chat about 6.30 a.m.
and had breakfast at 7. Temperature 54°. Left Cap Chat about 10.30,
after going to the bank,aM leaving our money and taking a receipt for it.
Baggage went on team and we in two autos. Beached Emend* s, the last
clearing and the end of the auto road, 6 miles more or less, soon after
noon and had dinner there, mom Eracnd*s we walked to the Locked Camp,
10 3/4 miles by pedometer, most of the way in the rain. Beached the Locked
Camp in 4 1/2 hours, cold and wet. Supper of ham and eggs.
July 7. Left Locked Camp at 11 a.m. and after walking up the tote-road for
about half a mile we crossed to the other side of the Cap Chat river on
a raft built earlier in the day by Fortin, Thibault and Lugas, and entered
the unbroken and uncharted wilderness. Very wet as we started out because
rain had fallen 411 night. 1 started out axfci wearing rubbers and rubber
fucgasBXs overalls, but soon took them off as useless incumberances for
we frequently had to wade brooks. We all carried packs ranging from 30
to 80(9) lbs., the heatfy ones being carried by Fortin, Thibault and Lugas.
We arrived in a large cirque-like basin plater designated as Fernald Basin]
near the entrance to iiettle Atavine [*e designated by xernald and Pease the
preceding year] about 5.30 p.m. at an altitude of 1110* (aneroid). Probably
6 or 8 miles. We pitched 3 tents-** the guides in one; Dodge, Smith and 1
in my tent; Fernald, Pease, McKenzie and Griscom in larger tent,-##
Grfscfiffi]J2J - - - — — - - — — — — --7
July 8 (Sunday). Mostly clear, good day for views from the mountain. After
breakfast of ham, hardtack, partridge, etc., we all started ijlp for the summit
of the pass. We wont up the basinAtfo re maid Pass, where we ate lunch of
hardtack, peanut butter and raisins. The climbing before sta lunch was
very difficult, up through dense scrub covered exceedingly steep, slopes
where the regid branches were interlocked and pointing downwards as if to
defend the approach to the £ass by a closely set array of wooden bayonets.
We were all very tired when we reached the little lake in Fernald Pass.
The collecting on the stee^( slope -^of nearly bare r£dge to the south of the
pass was particularly alpine^ we wnet ^ to Jrhe top of the mountain to the
south, called Mt. Logan by Coleman and also by Bernal d and Pease in 1922,
[really Mt. Mattaouisse] and along the summit ridge for probably more than
a mile where we had a fine view of Mt. Bayfield, some 10 miles to the wvJt-
southwest, and of the valley immediately south of us. We saw Mt. albert
(20 miles +) and Tabletop (30 miles) to the eastward, from the slope above
Fernald Pass. We wBat along the ridge to the westward for 2 miles, x&wh
going down through a^sfa^d^ some 200 or 300 feet deep and up on to the
summit of the unnamed ^dc me' (jLater designated as :t. Collins] at the western
end of the ridge, to a point nearly due south of out camp in the basin a
mile and a half away and 2400 feet below us. Prom here, with Pease as our
leader, we descended by much zigzagging a steep wet and slippery ravine
[later designated as "Little Gully"] which Joined Kettle Gully about two-
thirds of the way down the mountain. Hone of ikje our three "guides" was
with us today. Dugas ill with laryngitis (as he thought) but really a stomach
upset, xgjaxaxaxgx*Kixaxi:txa8K*xdBKx,.LgxlgxXEMxg&xp and stayed in camp all
day~-better tonight. Fortin and Thibault v/ent down to locked camp and
brought up loads of supplies and food. We got back to camp a few ninutes
after Fortin and Thibault returned from the Locked Camp. 7 or 8 miles of
hard travelling up and down the mountains today. All very tired at night
and went to bed early.
July 9. Fair and warmer in a.m. Gioudy and rainy in late p.ra. We all stayed
in camp in a.m. taking care of specimens collected yeaterday. Dodge, Smith
and I mowed our tent to a new location which was less likely to be moist
in^case oi' rain. In p.m. Fernald, Pease, Griscom an d Smith went over to
Kettle Gully collecting. Dodge, McKenzie and 1 stayed in camp and made up
records and rested some. ^Fortin and Thibault cut out^trail through the
to the -g ha. s e of the'Xsteep slope below iernald Pass, up
we went yesterday, (l^'aTm^ncr'early p3v> They returned soon after
Fernald’ s party left for KeFtTe^GuTTyT After resting awhile all that£
"guides” decided to go down to the Locked Gamp, stay over night, and bring
up three pack loads of supplies tomorrow a.m. They left before Pernald’s
party returned.
July 10. Oloudy and cold. Spent most of a.m. taking care of specimens
collected by Femald’s Mettle Gully party yesterday. We all had an early
dinner (11.30 a.m.) and then went collecting. Pernald, Smith, McKenzie
and 1 went as one party to a ravine east of Mettle Gully and later to
chimney east of Big Ghimney. Pease, Griscom and Dodge went to Big Ghimney.
We collected considerable material, but nothing startling. Fortin,
Thibault and Dugas got back to camp about an hour after we left and went
up to continue work clearing out the trail up the steep slope below Pernald
Pass. We did not see than until supper time when we all foregathered for
that welcome pastime.
July 11. Bainy and cold last night, and cold, rainy of very threatening all
day. All of us stayed in camp all day taking care of specimens, the three
"guides" going up to finish the trail to the top of Fernald pass and to
locate a favorable campsite for our next camp, and to cache such things
as they would not need here at the basin camp tonight. They did not get
back until about suppertime. 1 seem to have a cold which affects my eyes.
Have used boric acid and taken two figpirin tablets.
July 12. Mostly clear. Everybody rested and again in good trim. As there
was every prospect of the day being fine for photography it was decided that
Pease, Dodge, Smith and 1 should drop all camp duties and make an early
start for the real Mt. Logan, sgxwgxggi x startBgx while the others broke camp
after having attended to the plants in press, and proceed slowly up to the
new campsite in Pernald Pass. We got off at 8.10 a.m. from the basin camp
and reached Pernald Pass at 10.35 and located the cache and campsite
selected yesterday by Fortin. We immediately pushed on to the top of Mt.
Logan where we arrived at 1.40 p.m., going along the Osmunda meadows at
the east end of Mt. Fortin and up the northeast shank of Mt. Logan, follow¬
ing a brook part of the way. Aneroid said 3900 feet for top of Logan, but
this will probably have to be considerably increased as all the readings
of my aneroid appear to be loWer than Goleman’s whenever he has checked
on altitudes we have measured. Distance by pedometer from Fernald Basin
camp to Fernald Pass camp about 3 miles, and from Fernald Pass camp to the
top of Mt. Logan about 3 3/4 miles. Found an immense cirque with great
cliffs and a cascade estimated to be 600 to 700 feet high, several large
areas of snow, alpine meadows, and a hanging valley, to the east of Logan,
between there and Mt. Pembroke. :2am* [Later this cirque basin was called
Pease Basin]. Game back in nearly a straight line frrm the top of Mt .
Logan to the new camp at Fernald Pass with Pease as pathfinder. Fernald,
Griscom and McKenzie botanized on the shank of Mt. Mattaouisse and on
Mt. Fortin in p.m. Gamp located on a ferny shelf i Osmunda Glaytoniana)
near Fernald Lake.
July 13. Fair. Had breakfast about 7 a.m. and then Dodge and 1 went to the
top of Mt. Fortin to get photographs, but were only partially successful
on account of the scrub growth covering the summit. 3y cutting down a few
trees and then climbing to the top of another, which on the wind swept
summit was not over 15 feet high, I succeeded in getting several photos.
We then walked along the ridge to the eastward and through seme of the
open park-like and fern covered areas to the summit of Mt. Logan, then
on for two miles beyond to the first pond in the Great Meadows at the head
of Pease Basin where we had lujich in a sheltered spot in the scrub. In
the p.ra. we all foregathered in the Great Meadows. Pease and Smith had
worked down the "dazor Back" into Pease Basin and after exploring there
awhile came up the steep slope at the south end of the basin to the Great
Meadows. Fernald, Griscom and McZenzie had worked around the rim of the
basin and in the meadows. We all started back from the summit of Mt. Logan
about 4.50 p.m. Thibault and Dugas went to the Locked Gamp today for more
supplies. Fortin been with us most of the day. Sharp hail storm about
supper time and heavy thunder storm in the evening.
July 14. Cold. 44° at 6 a.m. after breakfast Dodge and 1 went up on Matta-
ouisse and along ridges and saddles to western scrub-covered end [Mt. Collins]
taking photographs. Had luncheon by small spring on saddle between Mt.
Mattcuisse and Collins. Later met Fernald, Griscom, Pease and Smith on
top of tableland [Mt. Collins]. Got back to camp in late p.ra. very tired
after a hard trip largely through scrub trees of fir and spruce ranging
from one foot to six in height. 8 3/4 miles by pedometer.
July 15. Very foggy in morning at camp in Fernald Pass, but later showed signs
of clearing. Thibault, Dugas, Fernald, Mackenzie, Smith and I got ready to
come down to the Locked Samp, and started at 9.40 a.m. Fortin, Dodge,
Griscom and Pease took what remained of our supplies for a two or three
days camping trip to explore beyond Pease Basin and as far as possible in
the direction of Mt. Pembroke and Covert du Charon. We reached the Basin
campsite at 11.40 and the river at 2.50, and the Locked Camp soon after
7 o'clock. In late P.m. we all worked at putting specimens in press.
Cloudy and threat en/ing all a.m. but clearing in p.m. Minges very
abundant and troublesome about the Locked camp this evening.
July 16. Cloudy most of day and warm in middle of day. Stayed around the
Locked camp all day, taking a walk up wood road to get a tfiew of Fernald
Pass from this point in a.m. with Smith, and again in p.m. with Mackenzie,
also down road in early p.m. Thibault went out in p.m. to sleep at home
(Cap Chat) and come in with a team Wednesday. Fernald and Smith ZZxgklZ
in early p.m. started "light" for two nights and a day at Frere de Hichol-
abert. Helped change all driers in all presses and collected some mosses
today. Had supper of peas and tomato soup, boiled eggs, cheese, apple
sauce, hardtack and maple syrup. Washed underclothes in river today.
July 17. Fair and warm. Mackenzie, Dugas and 1 had brakfast about 8 a.m.
and then changed driers in all presses and put out some mosses in cheese
cloth bags to dry. Very warm in middle of day. 80° at noon, warmer
later. Walked up river beach in p.m. and later went up river road fcor
a mile and took some photographs of Mattaouisse and Fortin Mts.
Fernald and Smith came in about an hour after dark and after we were all
in bed. They found Hicblabert rather unprof itable .
July 18. Cloudy. Very warm, 89° at 1 p.m. Fernald, Smith, Mackenzie
and I worked on plant presses in a.m. and p.m. Fortin, Grissom, Dodge
and Pease came in from Mt. Logan before noon and reported a satisfactory
trip though very foggy part of the tine and a frost one night. Everybody
"took it easy" about camp today trying to keep cool. Griscom, Smith,
Fernald and Dodge sleeping in tent up the road tonight, and F’ortin is
out of doors; the rest of us in cabin with all windows and door open.
Thibault reached camp early in p.m. (?) from Cap Chat leading his horse
but with no buckboard. He said the only road leading
to the Locked Camp had slid into the riijer at the Salmon Camp some 5 miles
down the river, and the road was impassable. We sent him back with Fortin
and Dugas with directions to take the buckboard apart, bring it aogoss the.
slide, put it together again, and bring it up to the camp. They returned
with the buckboard before supper.
July 19. Cloudy. Very mingy last night about the Locked Camp. We were
packed^ ready to start down the river at 6.30 a.m. Left Locked Camp at
about 7 a.m. and arrived at Emond’s for dinner (10-11 miles). At the
Salmon Camp, 5 miles below the Locked Camp, the road for a distance of
50 tb 75 feet had slid into the river, 100-150 feet below. We had to unpack
all baggage and portage it across the break. The buckboard was then
hauled across the slide with alpine ropes. Beached Cap Chat about 3 p.m.
in autos from Emond’s. Got money from bank and wrote seme postal cards,
then went on in motor bus to Ste. Anne des Monts (10 miles further eas4)
from which point we intend to go up the Ste. Anne river to Mt. Albert.
Arthur Bent in Appalachia for Dec. 1922. page 271 et seq.
Page 272. "In planning the trip at home we had read much of the "terrible
Shickshock Mountains" in the "Great iaspesian Wilderness", and it was with
some misgivings that we shouldered our packs and commenced our journey up
the Ste. Anne River. But closer contact proved that the country w.lS not
very different from other mountain regions, and we soon felt quite at home.
We had obtained careful directions at the tillage of St. Anne, where an old
guide had drawn maps in the dusty road, as we smoked our pipes the evening
before we left.
The route to Mount Albert follows an old lumber tote-road for thirty-two
miles up the valley of the St. Anne, as our packw were heavy we made this
trip in two days, spending a night At an old lumber-camp which we found
quite clean. It was at this camp that we rigged our first "bear alarm".
We had been told jex&xc stories of tremendous bears, so big that they could
barely squeeze out of the door of the camp, so when we saw the size of the
door vre decided to take steps against being^ surprised in our sleep by
Brother Bruin. A tin wash-basin, when balanced nicely, we found made an
excellent bear alarm. Towards the end of the trip we considered the bear
a
menace not so great, so that we ceased contriving an alarm"
f »
/v- a*, A— -eCn* V<r Ue y C<rx.M€f
tr,:
jc.L-.~f (>
s. ^ %***■
jp^y^
£tA-(/-&.
^-ClCti/n s
AUy&^ti
<y<ij ». 4*-
hj Jpi&k / ii£t
- L~C~t c.; f y,>
Jhvt-'ry*.Z£%fl>
tk
■■j l^-7 t* &, /(%
£ Zu* iAa ^Cq, ^
f]j1yV^Vlrvx {&&<>
*
^Wv^vt»Ai
r<j
S’^VY ^
/ «yl> * f - ^ tfu ■+ )
' H<to
UTd - i^ov
C ^ ccC *1, ^3 <*>*”'-
)rf&*Cte%+ J^.CiUX . C*u*«^. ) 5^'^
cl. ^v-~»‘e>_ 'J.xtn)' (V-y^J )
"st , 'j io-ns ' ^ln>’ \(^A<yfj
t
t&f lf-vTti^ Ifrw' CJ<h+,
JI 1>^ 4fe«y ht-wUi . %b%0> $(*cn)
3 1
^ &jhs -
ir»»
W^./ hffut ’ii'VO-t lT</B
t4 1^0 C ' ■■'■ , AtoLi e -./
BWfcCAj c -•/. *f/. Z/Yf
I iJr Cu^Cu t/,Ci-.tjt Aj £** >«••-<. 3 1 Vi ^5 L uu t )
S£c & dL.tu Cv^O
.jytw.
C-C-wt C^fes-vA. v
f' a& , /5T> =4 ®*
-/ o
/ 5*fc ,
C^h.^tc “W*)'
n.i~
% • )W« 3 1 6
C c*~~p 4i+’ cui-y a V1'
T^rPcitrUcU
THE REGION OF MOUNT LOGAN,
GASPE PENINSULA
By J. Franklin Collins and Merritt L. Fernald
The Gaspfi Peninsula, as recently pointed out in this journal,1 was one
of the first known parts of Canada, claimed for France by Cartier in 1534.
“But though the oldest it is far from being the best known section of the
country.” To be sure, Dr. J. M. Clarke, under the title “The Heart of
Gaspe,” has made known the region of Perce, one of the finger tips of the
region; but the sketch “Across Gaspe” is the first general account available
of the backbone of Gaspe, the Shickshock Mountains.
In 1844 Sir William E. Logan, accompanied by a young assistant who
later became the distinguished geologist, Alexander Murray, crossed the
central-western section of the peninsula from Cap Chat (or Chatte) to the
Baie des Chaleurs. About seventeen miles up the Cap Chat River he en¬
tered the Shickshock Range and in his narrative of the trip mentioned some
of the mountains adjacent to the river.
Both the principal summits we visited. In ascending the eastward one, which stands
exactly opposite to the lower part of the valley of the Chat, and seems to terminate it, look¬
ing from the St. Lawrence, we clambered up the north side of the range, which presents a
face whose slope cannot be much under 450 for 3000 feet; and we found that before the hori¬
zon was clear over the lower ridges between us and the great river, we had attained the
elevation of 1753 feet above its surface. The highest spring of water we could discover,
which was an abundant one of excellent drinkable quality, coming from the strata at the
upper base of the peak, was 3544 feet up. The summit peak itself, a bare pointed rock, was
3768 feet, while the broad flat top of another mountain summit, two miles to the westward,
which went among us by the name of Mattawees (the Micmac word for a porcupine) — from
our having killed one of these animals as we scaled its side, — and on which we rested the
first night of our ascent, having reached it by mistake, was 3365 feet. A deep ravine sep¬
arated Mount Mattawees from the main peak, and another one severed it from a dome¬
shaped top nearly its own height, about a mile and a half to the westward, between which
and the gorge of the Chat stood another gigantic boss.
The main summit to the westward of the Chatte, to which we gave the name of Bayfield
Mountain, in honour of Captain Bayfield, who on one of his Charts has indicated its position,
we ascertained to be 3471 feet, after having reached it by a very steep and fatiguing ascent
from the gorge to a precipitous mountain knob, 2669 feet high, — which acquired the title of
the Old Man [Bonnehomme], from the existence of an erect stone in a step at its edge, in the
position of one watching what might be passing below.2
Ever since Logan’s report in 1846 the name Mt. Logan has had a regular
place on maps of Canada or of the Province of Quebec, and slightly to the
west has appeared the name Mt. Bayfield. In the interval up to 1918, how¬
ever, no definite attempt to identify with exactness the mountains described
by Logan seems to have been made. During that summer the Canadian
IF. J. Alcock: Across Gaspe, Geogr. Rev., Vol. 14, 1924. PP* 197-214*
2 Sir William E. Logan: Geological Survey of Canada: Report of Progress for the Year 1844, Montreal.
1846, p. 11.
84
MOUNT LOGAN, GAS PE
5
geologist, Piofessoi A. P. Coleman, ascended the Cap Chat River and under¬
took an exploration of its mountains, “but owing to bad weather and the
lack of knowledge of the mountains by the writer's guides, less was accom¬
plished than was hoped for.
“It was intended to climb mount Logan, shown on the geological map
as having a height of 3,768 feet, and about 17 miles up the river. The guides
had not heard of the mountain and maintained that mount Nicolabert
Sketch map of
THE MOUNT LOGAN REGION
J FRANKLIN COLLINS
1923
- Camp . Route 1923 - Route 1922 - Tote road
_ _ MILES (APPROXIMATE)
<5 i l J
A-Fernald Basin. B-NeftleGully C-Litlie Gully. D-Big Chimney.
E-Grcen Gully. F-Fernald Pass (Dry pond at left ,Fernald Lake at right)
G -Razor Back H-PeaseBasm I -Hanging Valley.
Fig. 1 — Sketch map of the Mt. Logan Region.
[Logan’s Bonnehomme], farther up the river, was the highest peak, so it
was agreed the expedition should go to that point.”3
Coleman and his party were handicapped by fog and rain and, after at¬
tempts to reach Mt. Logan by ascending a high ridge (3086 feet) opposite
the mouth of Pineau River, were forced by bad weather and depletion of
food supply to turn back without seeing that mountain.
In July, 1922, Professor Arthur Stanley Pease and the junior writer, find¬
ing themselves on the Gaspe coast with a few days at their disposal, at¬
tempted to rediscover the somewhat mysterious Mt. Logan. One of our
guides of sixteen and seventeen years before on Mt. Albert and Tabletop
Mountain at the eastern end of the Shickshock Range, Joseph Fortin of
Ste. Anne des Monts, was fortunately open for an engagement but owing
3 A. P. Coleman : Physiography and Glacial Geology of Gaspe Peninsula, Quebec, Canada Geol. Survey Bull.
No. 34, 1922, p. 27.
86
THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW
Fig. 2 — Logan Range from above Locked Camp. Mt. Logan at left ; Mt. Fortin, back of spruce ; Fernald
Pass, in center; Mt. Mattaouisse, capped by fog; Mt. Collins, at right.
to an injury to a shoulder was unable to pole a canoe; and he disclaimed
any knowledge of Mt. Logan. So the party started upon an equality as
regards familiarity with the region, following with a horse and cart a recently
cut logging road up the Cap Chat as far as Pineau River which enters it from
the west. The central part of the Shickshock Range was clearly visible
from various points along the road, and standing in the middle of the back¬
ground as we left the St. Lawrence was one great dome with a sharp peak
higher than the rest, thus coinciding with Logan’s account of his mountain,
“exactly opposite to the lower part of the valley of Chat, and seems to ter¬
minate it, looking from the St. Lawrence.” But to the settlers and the
guides of the salmon fishers along the lower eight miles of the river the
mountains were wholly undifferentiated. Asked what they called a special
mountain, then another and still another, they gave the unvarying answer:
“Oh, that is the Shickshock Mountain;” or occasionally they would apply
the name Couvert du Chaudron somewhat indiscriminately to any bare-
topped dome.
It proved a fortunate circumstance that the party was forced to follow
the tote road rather than the channel of the river, for about seventeen miles
from the mouth of the river, in the region of the “Locked Camp,” the road
passes over high ridges and bluffs, bringing clearly into view to the south
and east the northern steep wall of the Shickshock Range. It was evident
that Logan’s country was in sight, but falling into the same error as Cole¬
man the party, passing the proper spot from which to strike off toward Mt.
Logan, plodded on to the mouth of Pineau River. Here the steep mass which
Coleman had ascended, and to which the name “Mt. Coleman” is here
applied, rises across the river to the northeast. From the mouth of Pineau
MOUNT LOGAN, GASPE
87
Fig. 3 — Forms a panorama with Figure i which it continues westward. Mt. Collins, at left; Mt. Coleman
at right.
River Logan’s “Bonnehomme” came into view, a beautiful slope rising
abruptly from the river and known to the local guides always as “Nicola-
bert.” A hunter’s trail was followed to the base of Nicolabert and opposite
it to the somewhat lower Le Frere de Nicolabert; but, as the southern out¬
liers of the range were in sight, it was evident that a return must be made to
the Locked Camp if Mt. Logan was to be reached. Proceeding eastward
from above the Locked Camp in the afternoon of July 21 the party reached
the base of the 3000-foot northern wall of a mountain before dark. After
a struggle through spruce pucker brush and over a precipice of some hun¬
dreds of feet, camp was made at the northwestern outlet of a cirque basin.
The basin measured about three miles long, east and west, and one mile
broad. Pease named it “Fernald Basin.” To the south rose the steep and
often quite precipitous northern wall of the dome mentioned by Logan as
being half a league west of Mattaouisse : to the east it merged into the abrupt
wall of Mattaouisse, which at the head of the basin dropped to a graceful
saddle (Fernald Pass). North of the Pass and the Basin rose another steep-
walled and nameless mountain.
With only one day available for the alpine crests the mountain to the
north, named Mt. Fortin, was selected. After reaching the crest, botanizing
all the way, the party descended into Fernald Pass, arriving there in the
early afternoon. In every chimney and cranny were discovered arctic-alpine
plants heretofore unknown south of Cape Chidley or east of the Rockies.
It had been supposed that Mt. Mattaouisse was Mt. Logan ; but the sudden
appearance farther east of a higher mass confused the situation, and before
the puzzle could be solved two electrical storms with hail and sheets of rain
accompanied by violent wind broke over the Pass — one from the north, the
THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW
other from the south — and abruptly ended the exploration for 1922. Cole¬
man’s account of his chagrin at getting so near Mt. Logan but finally being
thwarted by storm and fog was well appreciated.
Stimulated by the rich botanical discoveries of the tantalizingly brief
and geographically inconclusive experience of 1922, a larger botanical enter¬
prise was arranged for the summer of 1923. The party of seven botanists,
Carroll W. Dodge of Harvard University, Ludlow Griscom of the American
Fig. 4 — Mt. Logan from Mt. Pembroke.
Museum of Natural History, Kenneth Mackenzie of the New York Bo¬
tanical Garden, Arthur Stanley Pease of the University of Illinois, Lyman B.
Smith, a student in Harvard College, and the two writers, left Cap Chat for
the Locked Camp on July 6, 1923, accompanied by Joseph Fortin, Israel
Thibeault, and Leon Dugas. On the 7th a temporary camp was established
below the outlet of Fernald Basin and opposite a steep ravine to the south
designated Nettle Gully. The walls of Nettle Gully were too precipitous
and slippery for ascent, but about the cold base at an altitude of scarcely
400 meters (1300 feet) were found plants heretofore known only from the
summit of Mt. Albert and later in the season a fern which had been known
only along the Coast Ranges from Alaska to California.
Reconnoitering expeditions, at first from the lower camp and later from
a camp in Fernald Pass, showed that the real Mt. Logan is the summit
with the “bare pointed rock,” the highest of this immediate group,
slightly over 4100 feet, and lying two or three miles east of the head of Fer-
Fig.
Fig. 6
Fig. 5 — Logan Range from the lower Cap Chat River. Mt. Logan (highest point, in middle) merging into
Mt. Fortin; Fernald Pass (notch); Mt. Mattaouisse and Mt. Collins (mostly hidden at right).
Fig. 6 — Looking slightly north of east from crest of Mt. Logan. In foreground portion of scrub-covered
tableland of Logan; beyond it at left Pease Basin with Mt. Pembroke beyond; Couvert du Chaudron in middle
background.
Fig. 7 — Mt. Logan with its distinctive rock crest from summit of Mt. Collins.
Fig. 7
89
90
THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW
nald Pass. “The broad flat top,” described by Logan as Mt. Mattaouisse
and separated from Mt. Logan by “a deep ravine,” is the mass rising
to the south of the Pass; and, just as Logan described it, another ravine,
The Saddle, “severed it [Mattaouisse] from a dome-shaped top nearly
its own height [Mt. Collins, as designated by members of our party] about
a mile and a half to the westward, between which and the gorge of the Chat
stood another gigantic boss [Mt. Coleman].”
A party led by Pease made a preliminary ascent of Mt. Logan, discovering
that its northern and eastern walls plunged abruptly into a basin far more
rugged and picturesque than Fernald Basin. Further explorations by all
members of the party, continued over several days of bleak and stormy
weather by Dodge, Griscom, Pease, and the senior writer accompanied by
Joseph Fortin, showed that the great gulf which separates Mt. Logan from
the next dome to the northeast, Mt. Pembroke of some of the older maps,
was indeed more ragged than Fernald Basin. It was also the home of many
more localized arctic, cordilleran, and endemic plants; and in recognition of
Pease’s activity in exploring its cliffs and talus and of his well-known energy
in exploration of the White Mountains this steep-walled gulf is here called
“Pease Basin.” To the south and east of the basin extend many square
miles of meadows (Great Meadows) with numerous small ponds; and, cap¬
ping the southeastern crest of the basin are twin summits (Dodge and Gris¬
com), separated by a brook which cascades for hundreds of feet down the
abrupt wall. Between Griscom and the main mass of Pembroke is a steep
talus of angular gravel, Hanging Valley, with a brook descending its slope;
but lower down both the brook and the talus give way to a dense scrub
forest, and opposite Hanging Valley, slightly south of west, is a distinct and
narrow white ridge of mica schist, Razor Back.
Some of the party located and tested Logan’s “highest spring of water
. . . coming from the strata at the upper base of the peak,” thus confirming
our idea that we were actually following Logan’s tracks; and Dodge and
Joseph Fortin penetrated the fog, which repeatedly interrupted exploration,
far enough to see Les Trois Lacs which lie to the east under the dome most
generally known in the region as Couvert du Chaudron. The latter name
has been variously applied in the past, but the dome indicated on our map
is the one visible from Ste. Anne des Monts.4 Captain Samuel Cote, the
most experienced woodsman of the region, gave us an explicit account of
its position with Les Trois Lacs at its southwestern base; and our own guide,
Thibeault, was familiar with it through trapping in the basin of the Little
Cap Chat which separates Couvert du Chaudron from Pembroke. In fact,
Thibeault assured us that the basin which forms the north-facing gulf be¬
tween Pembroke and Couvert du Chaudron is much grander than Pease
Basin. Late in August two members of the party, Smith and Fernald,
accompanied by Joseph Fortin and Israel Thibeault, reestablished camp in
1 From the village of Ste. Anne des Monts, Mt. Logan cannot be seen; but its characteristic summit, well
to the west of Couvert du Chaudron, is visible from the end of the wharf.
MOUNT LOGAN, GASPE
91
Fernald Pass, planning to reach Couvert du Chaudron and the basin of the
Little Cap Chat; but unceasing gales, fog, a two-days’ blizzard, and more
fog cut off all field work, and they were forced to give up the quest and to
return to the Locked Camp.
Thus we feel that at least a small portion of the Shickshock Mountains
that has long been an obscure region is better understood. But there is much
exploration yet to do. A fascinating program for a few weeks of clear au¬
tumn weather would be to follow the range eastward to Mt. Albert or west¬
ward to Mt. Bayfield. Mt. Bayfield, although quite unknown to the guides
and woodsmen of the region, is certainly in the general position indicated for
it by Logan and by Coleman and , as seen from the peak of Mt. Logan, seemed
quite as high if not even higher than the latter mountain. The most feasible
route has not been worked out, but with the interest in the Shickshock Moun¬
tains that is now developing Mt. Bayfield will soon become better known.
Our route to Mt. Logan through Fernald Basin involves a hard pack up the
nearly precipitous wall below the Pass, and it is probable that a more gradual
trail could be worked out along the branch of Ouillet Brook between the
westerly flanks of Fortin and Logan. The hunters’ route up the Little Cap
Chat between Couvert du Chaudron and Pembroke, thence to the broad
meadows east of Pease Basin, is said to be quite feasible: it starts nearer
civilization, and equipment can be hauled nearer to the mountains; but
our route from above the Locked Camp has the advantage of a recently
beaten trail and of cleared camp sites at convenient distances along it.
uli. •*-' l7
{tyt-*-*-
Mt. Logan region. 1923
Compare with Whi t e Mts. not as high but more arctic. White Mts more
" - . peaks (old): Ehickshocks more tableland (younger). Height above base.
cate Gaspe peninsula; bound, 49° H.+
ze; 12-13000 sq. miles = Mass * Conn.
pography; elevated plateau 800-1500' deeply cut . yut-d** MU
Geology; crest pre-carabrian, n. cambrian; s. Silurian, devonian, Silurian,
metamorphia overlaid by lower carboniferous.
Interior wilderness; [Cfl; woods . game [A], no maps
Rivers; trout and salmon.
Insects
Olimate and weather
Population 81.000, less than l/3 Prov. 6 per sq. mile [D]
Scenery; [G][B]
Cartier 1534
Exploration [F] Logan's trip in 1844; (?®v - 7
Coleman's trip in 1918 [E]
Fernald & Pease in 1922
Trip 1923; general results — Logan is where Logan said it was and his original
description was very accurate [P.,4, last par.]
Our equipment may be of interest. [P.7, mid page]
+• e
Tents
Clothing
Shoes
Cold nights and extra clothing
.ravel in 28s or 3s. Knapsack containing w.p.coat and emergency rations,
also matches, compass and whistle.
Whistle signals Kelp signal once.
Way to reach Gaspe.
Read diary of trip
so . , 4;: * iff
C- C &***■***«#■ ^ v |f
£, - a *0* Jy ^ A (£. t / 0
/
/
A. P. Coleman in Appalachia for Pec. 1924, page 33 et seq.
"In reality the mountains of Gaspe fonn the most trackless arfiunvisited
wilderness in eastern North America, with no nap worthy of the name showing
the mountains, and without a single road or trail crossing the range from
i'Wv'vC^”
to sou tip*
iixxxxik^icx
" Sir William Logan, many years ago, crossed the Shickshocks on a geolog¬
ical surgey, and gave a brief acceunt of them, naming several of the peaks,
but the topographer who prepared a map from his field notes mixed things
up so that the mountains do not correspond with the description in the letter
piress. The map looks all right, but is quite unreliable"
"There is no true pass across the fcange, though there are two dips in its
crest where the Cap Chat and the Ste, Anne Hi vers have carved wild canyons
2500 feet in depth"
p.37 "as one might expect, the people of Gaspe, especially those of the
strip of lowland between the mountains and the St. Lawrence, are the most
primitive in North America."
KiUOM-HOTM RhGABDIHG TEE AOCCKPAHYIHG HAP
Owing to the fact that full circles of pictures were taken at only three
jy
points (Logan, ’.lattouisoe , and Collins) and these three points lie nearly in
one line (all the prominent peaks are along the same general line) it was
impossible to use the views effectively for triangulation purposes, consequently
this map should be regarded as a plan constructed from a very incomplete series
of photographic elevations, taken at points not definitely located in other
views. The contour lines represent very roughly 100 ft. elevations. The writer,
as you know, did not see some of the areas ;;»apped. Other members of the party
did see some of these areas as well as others not here mapped, A map constructed
from such sources of information must necessarily contain very many errors.
This preliminary photostat copy of the map is sent to you with the special
request that you go over it as carefully as your available t bat will permit,
and make such changes as you think necessary (preferably with colored ink or
pencil) in any manner that is intelligible on the map, and return the same to
mo as soon as convenient. From the corrected copies a new map will be constructed
embodying all corrections, in so far as they are not inconsistent with each
otter end with the few points definitely determined by photographic triangula¬
tion.
All the names on the map a e those generally used on the trip, or later
suggested by Prof. Fernald or Dr. Dodge — (excepting only the name "Dodge") *
In going over this map please consider names, distances, contours, brooks,
elevations, etc., etc., and make as mm. y changes in the map as you stay deem '
necessary before returning it.
J. KUUBU.UT OGLLIKS,
IS Brown St., Providence, H. I,
Brora University,
Providence, E. I*,
October £5, 1925*
Professor Arthur Stanley Pease,
1114 West Oregon Street,
Urbana, 111*
Bear Peases
I have the map and your eo ments on the same mailed October 22.
These are just exactly what I wanted and they are apparently in every
case right to the point. The map wao, of course, a very preliminary
on© and some of the points which you emphasise as different were cor¬
rected before your letter was received. I am particularly glad for
your comment regarding things around the Great Gulf and Fernald -Basin,
Regarding the name "Collins'* this war sprung on me by Pernali and
Bodge after they had gone over Logahte report in the light of what Sam
Cote told us at considerable length {and he sketched the region on the
floor of the piazza) at the hotel at Ste. Anne des Mont a • He insisted
and explained in detail that Convert© du Ohaudron was the rounded dome
east of Bembroke. Moreover Thibault’s father is a lumberman in that
particular region and I understand he bears out Cote’s statement that
this is the real Convert© du Ohaudron. I presume this is the main reason
why Bodge and Fernald independently suggested the name Collins for the
Tabletop scrub- covered dome between Coleman and the saddle. I must
admit, however, that I am not wholly in sympathy with the suggestion.
<Sra^ Iberbartum
Ibarvarb ‘Xllniverstt^
B. L. ROBINSON, Curator,
Asa Gray Prof. Syst. Bot.
M. L. FERNALD,
Fisher Prof. Nat. Hist. (Bot.)
MARY A. DAY, Librarian
EDITH M. VINCENT,
Assistant in Library
IVAN M. JOHNSTON, Assistant
CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.A.
Oct. 25, 1925.
Dear Collins:
Dodge and I will have to wait a few days before returning
the map of the Logan region, since my photographs which include a pan¬
orama taken by him from the top of Griseom, are just being developed.
'They have promised to get them to me within two or three days now, and
I shall send the first series of prints directly to you. I also have a
panorama taken from’ 1000 feet above the Locked Camp to the west, which
gives very clear ideas , provided the prints come out right, of the extent
of the northwestern spurs of the range.
One thing Dodge and I have agreed upon and have put upon the label
forms which are now in the printer's hands, is the name Great Basin
the
changed to read Pease 3asin, since Pease did^most thorough exploring in
there, and the rediscovery of Lit. Logan has squeezed his name out of
the region. The other names are to us wholly appropriate.
I shall also have some panoramas from the eastern side of Tabletop
which will oe of real service/I trust, to you in remaking that map. I
will edit up the old print that you gave me so far as I am able, and
Dodge will doubtless have some suggestions to make, so that that can be
redrawn and brought to date.
The Rhode Island trip did not materialize. Gri scorn and I had planned
to go, but I could get absolutely no information from the committee until
the very last moment when Dr. Bill's stenographer telephoned to
Miss Anderson that the whole thing had been given up. I was sorry since
I could have gone just at that time and we should have had at least half
a dozen energetic collectors in the field.
Sincerely yours
Brovn University,
Providence, 1«,
October 26, 1920*
Professor H« L. Pernald,
Gray Herbarium,
Cambridge 38, Mass,
Dear Perns ldj
I have your letter of October 25 and am very glad that you have
decided to change the name of the Great Basin. I had already thought
of this very thing myself but decided it was too late to make any changes
°n yottr labels and no I had sort of "pigeon-holed” the idea until I saw
you.
I ara very glad to know that you took a panorama from the top of
Grleoom* I think this will help otit matter* wonderfully for 1 had not
the slightest idea when I worked on the map ac to the lay of the land
to the eastward, and your views from the hill above the Locked Gamp will
also come in very nicely for it is these side views that are lacking in
my series. Even if some of the negatives are Very poor I hope you will
send prints of than because outlines may show and help a lot.
You and Podge may be Interested in knowing that I ara now working
in odd moments upon a clay model of the Logan region, a little smaller
than the map, trying to make it so that by sighting from certain points
the profiles and contours will check up pretty closely with photographs.
It is rather a tedious job but something that does not have to be finished
Fern&lcL, It. L.
26 0 23.
-2-
off in a hurry. Your photographs from ttri' COin and front above the Lo steed
Gamp will certainly be of much value in this work.
I have just had a letter and copious notes accompanied by the map
that I sent to Pease. He has drawn attention in detail to many minor
changes , particularly Pease and Pernald Basins, showing a wonderful
memory for topographic details.
Jon will also he interested in knowing that I have lantern slide
prints made of about & third of the views that I took on the- Logan trip.
At the rate I am making them it may be two or three weeks yet before I
get through the series.
I hope to see you next Friday, but the way things are lining up
I doubt if X shall be able to get up until lato in the afternoon, too
late to think of going out to the Herbarium, but it may pan out otherwise.
Sincerely,
J. FIUMI.1F COLLDfS,
jfo/hbb
Pathologi st
Orb ana, Illinois
29 Ootobsr, 1923
Os -v Cali i. . • :
I 6ii a l x it’ til* suggsstio.'ie on tha map *-f; of soy v . L u to yoa. Wt
cli ftfcB’t to io everything, I am sur-. ,to help yoa in tb • difficult task of sap-
ping a aew 30iiBiry,«nd my own Skill at m *p-m eking is so slight that I an con¬
stantly in admiration of sayone who can mass up £ nap or & r-lief map iron th«
vwr i-'-l sad scattering date such as are evailebls io this cs.se.
As to tbs sap which Fernald id I a is in 1922 it is so prude and hasti-
i— sad ; incomplete knowledge, in th r hat we no a know— i
that I aoi almost & sheas i to hevs you as* it, and, from sb* feat that it loss not
at ten.pt any oontoars, I don't believe that there is anything oa if. that you h « vV
no v jsors accurst vly on th? new map. Still, fh at you may h.rve all * -it- riel - v s i I —
afel ijt i a niing yoa the original oopy, made on pressing pap ■ :• <; : ><
oemp-r, with fch* r- quest that aft ?r yoa aes through with if yoa 1 ? as- h- v? it
back, for I have * iittl; ssntimont.ai inter sst in k : ping it.
la my suggestions -boat th? possible ibsofity of tbs Convert da Ohaadron
afli Ms. Coil ins I Hi not, wish in &?y way to lisput; tb? title sad tb* cam pis tc-
appropriateness of to l J?;?? asm -f of which I heartily approve) , bat m - : Ly to
point out that it ssem s J to oh io b-feni still s ? ? m s t- as- to bi most probably)
shat Coleman hsd 'in mind by his C. la C. As I thiol I iadieaied a . o»-
svar, it is gaits iik:-iy thst hs or his guides in th - foggy conditions in which
his trip was oti - m:» si dsatifird oh-? mouafcaio.Tbat is, tb-- C. da C. w *• $ doubt U ss
qs.j. ?i from below ( sal if i i . ft p .-• * k yoa in dice t ?. if ought to b vUibt . fro®
via Ste. A * , l his |
UWWMM$*M$MiUH$i$nnntWi$pjWr finiiag mount in of aos«*h«i th,
a h a p , proa-i - 1 > i f o i < n f ify t h • t>s . ? r i o ■? i t y w o ala t h ? o 1 v t a - o a -■ a • a e ,? ?
Colemar without a naa , ^this ^ou and the others far? right io applyiag the
name Collins.
I b v 8 1 ways b>*gf curious to know where yoa discovered tbs name Pembroke,
which I h»v-> n-jv^r^ sssn on any of f'bt maps at which I h <? v - ioos-si. From its being
than fre-iiOh it does not s$ am to bs s loc?i name but rather, the
s or ? x p io , ? ? * , i i k - t h - other fin g I i - b a am & s ( bo g an, 8 & y f i - L « ,
A 1 0 B , {' 0 i f op).
S’ a S ft*. Ana-- viU-g- from fcb* top of bog an, you will recall, sad I remem¬
ber that a year before Fsrnaid and I, after our return from that range, reeogaiz >
from tb- vicinity of St?. Ann j, $ mountain which we then called Peas*. I think tost
we saw it right from Pelletier's house or yard, bat of this I am not as posi ti «8
I should like to be. I do not recall, however, a Lag any other peak of this Lo-
g = a r n g a f r o » t h r * , *<> >. I sbo u 1 i n o t o a g r ? etiy s u rpri s o 1 i f t b a t w - r - f. - o n I y
on 5 visible tbsne*. Others must b ? s : ? from ths vicinity, how?vi r.
With cordis- i regards.
1 I •
f/.£7b»C-
w 1 s o i ,
Brown. University,
Providence, R» I*,
Kov ember 2, 1322*
Professor Arthur Stanley Pease,
1114 West Oregon Street,
Urban*, Ill*
Dear Peases
1 have your letter of October 29 enclosing the sketch rap
which you made in 1922. 1 thank you for the sane and will return
it os soon as I have had a little time to check up on it more
thoroughly*
Prom what you say in the letter regarding tho identity of
Convert c du Chaudroa I em reminded tbs.t you were not at St©. Anne
des . ‘onto when we studied out this matter in connection with O.ote*®
explanation regarding the mountains, so I will explain the matter
and sore® of its bearings as we worked it out -
Perhaps you will remaaber that from the top of Ht« Logan
oixly a portion of Ste. A. d.M* village could be seen, but from
the top of lit* Logan the end of the wharf at Ste* A* d* M* could
bo plainly seen but not the main part of the village* You will
also remember the rather striking rocky top of Mt, Logan which
was conspicuous from all sides of the mountain aa we saw it.
"While working one day in the back lot of the hotel at Ste* A* d« 3*
Pease, A, 3, -2-
2 17 23
somebody asked Pernald if he knew what the mountain was that could
be seen from there (which undoubtedly is the one that you refer to) %
Femald replied that you and he had worked it out the preceding year
as Mt. Pease. Immediately Podge and I and somebody else raised the
question that it was not at all like the top of Mt* Logan* Joe
said that Mt* Logan could not be seen from the hotel and then he
reminded us that from the top of Mt* Logan we could see only the
outlying houses of Ate. A* d. M. and not all of the wharf but only
the outer end. This prompted podge and myself to go down with
Joe to the wharf. At the base of the wharf we could see only the
rounded dome that was risible from the hotel but out at the tip
of the wharf the other mountain with the perfectly characteristic
Logan top came .into view farther to the right • This showed beyond
any doubt in our minds that the mountain that could be seen from
the hotel was one of the two mountaixis to the left of Logan., as we
looked from the wharf* that is. It was in all probability either
Pembroke or the other peak behind it. Later Bam Cote'' came to the
hotel and we began to ask him questions about the mountain. We
asked him particularly what the mountain was that we could see
from the hotel and he replied very promptly Gouverte du Chaudron,
and then he drew a little sketoh on the piazza floor and definitely
located Pembroke, Gouverte du Chaudron, and some of the other
mountains and streams farther to the eastward, but which I do not
now remember as they were beyond our region* He apparently knew the
Pease, A. S
E H 23
larger mountain on the opposite side of the Great Gulf from
Logan as Pembroke or, as he pronounced it once, Pembroke , but
most of the time he pronounced it as if it was spelled Pembroke .
1 think there is absolutely no doubt that the mountain seen from
the hotel is not Mt» Logan but the peak that on my map was marked
Couvert e du Chaudron, whether this is the correct name or not.
Apparently Cote and the lurabeman of the region know this peak
as Couverte du Chaudron.
Perhaps Femald has written you that on his labels he is
changing the name of the Great Gulf to pease Basin, a very
appropriate change, I think, in view of the feet that you did so
much exploring in this great cirque.
1 think myself that there is still considerable uncertainty
concerning the identity of some of the places but Femald writes
me that the names on the map which I sent you are entirely in
accord with his ddoas, except that he is making the change in the
name cf the Great Gulf as just mentioned.
Sincerely, with best wishes,
J. FEAEELH COLLIES,
jfc/ebb
Pathologi st.
1114 WEST OREGON STREET
URBANA, ILLINOIS f, t\j .. y , _ I. Q 9 ^
0,3 ar Oollias:--
Many thanks for your cl? or description of tn? mour-
Hi a fr ob Sta.Aane. I ti |1 • 5 hsvs that p u a a t
solved, and certainly tfu mi orpretation of the asms Oouv
lu Oheuiroa which the inhabitants smpLoy should have th?
preference to that a a is by Professor Col? esq in a fog.
Fernaii and I seem ssch to be ia & hole, as it were!
I refer to Parnell Basin eai Pa&sa litio*Still I a® roof
compli® sat a i by the appellation, though I foal it unie-ssr
vsi.The p i 3 o - had s remarkable fascination for me, bowevs
3o i I sa gLsi to b - connected with it, ; ven though un¬
worthily.
I hsva urged Pernali to try to writs tip the 3asp?
artiois of which he has been speaking this winter, rather
than waiting for -till another campaign. 8* or that will
surely reveal much more still to be ions, and the result
will b- indefinite postponement. I have seen so much of
men — especially Harvard men, of whom I could name several
examples — ief arrtfing publication until everything was
absolutely definitive and perfect and then dying before
their res u 1 t s w 3 re ms d 3 of any us to an y o n e t h a % I f 331
strongly on til; subject, and favor a preliminary puoii-
oatioa — osrefally do > • , of soars? — rather the a tbs hops
of aa impossible psr faction*. I bop? that you can also
urge Pernali to writs-up the 3aspa situation, as I have
already ions.
With cordial regards.
(/' }? ^ ^ ^ l
— -
J
(X-
a-^i, -~ut^.
/■L 4-^^-TST^cd tv-_~l^>UZ. xCyt
j£x$z%/
v-b-JZZ.
AAj-n^y
yC^tZ^ .
^ ~'^sn^cj[_
~7‘
garbarfc Simberjsttg
LABORATORIES,
FARLOW REFERENCE LIBRARY,
AND
HERBARIUM OF CRYPTOGAMIC BOTANY
R. THAXTER, Prof. -Emeritus and Hon. Curator
WM. H. WESTON, Jr. . . Assistant Professor
C. W, DODGE . . Instructor
A. B. SEYMOUR, . Assistant in the Herbarium
2,0 (Divinity Avenue
Cambridge 38, Mass., U.S.A.
NOV. IB, 1B23.
Dear Professor Co1,1 ins •
Enclosed find the translation of the Logan Report which T have
had ready for gome days. Prof. Fernald fold me that, he expected
vou uo the first of last ”reek, and T wa s ^oip." to Pive it to you
then. T ara sorry if the del ey has caused inconvenience. T have
sketched in the corrections and additions in red, water in blue.
Rather doubtful of the west contours of Coleman etc. perhaps Smith
ar.d Fernald can help out from their trip up the r tver .
T QXDBCh ho”l 1 OP a ho n't, "utlB •P j p c? f, oh h O 0O TlhOh t.,Q c*hclv pph xl
Qfop 1 3 1 TPcl &
Hast ily ,
River, and having by means of directions verified the position of a top
of a mountain 2669 ft. very near its left hank; from the summit of this
mountain and from the summit of one of the peaks determined by means of
our base line on the bank of the St. Lawrence, and which may be seen from
the other, we determined by a trigonometric operation, the situation of a
conical peak about 17 mi. in front of us on the edge of a river which
empties into the Baie des Chaiours. We, being directed toward this Mt .
thru the forest, we reembarked on this river and took our directions to
the Baie . The total distance following the detour of our route was more
than 111 mi.; but in a straight line, from our map it is 74 mi. 60 chains.
The same line, determined by the latitudes and longitudes of its ends, taken
from the correct charts of Capt . Bayfield is 74 mi, 79 chains and that
shown by the new map of the deputy surveyor general Couchette, on the point
of being published , its length is 75 ml. 1C chains. The direction of the
line coincides so well in the three charts that the difference is scarcely
percept ible .
The distance which we measured on the Chatte River before being obliged
to abandon our canoes was 32-§ mi. in' following the detours and 25 mi in tak¬
ing the general course of the river valley. The distance covered tiock us
thru the chain of the Notre Dame Mts which rise at' a distance of 12 mi in a
straight line from the shores of the St. Lawrence and occupy a breadth of
6 mi. more. The stream cuts these mountains at their very base, and at the
point where we left the river we found, that the height of its bed above
the level of the $^gsxȣx:tekxxxs'22H sea was 587, after .having ascended two
little falls in the gorge of the mountain, one of 10 ft. the other of 60,
giving a declivity of 18 ft. per mi for the water and 23 ft per mi. for the
valley of the river. The width of this river (the Chatte) at our last sta¬
tion wag 50-60 ft. ™hil“ at its mouth its width is about 150 ft. Its course
on descending between these two points exoftpt its si ight curves is as follows
the compass,
the
mi .
war :
eft.
■ N
10
0
1
4 0
N
11
E
0
56
N
12
E
1
12
N
24
E
0
70
N
7
0
3
03
N
67
E
5
5 6
N
11
E
4
28
N
8
E
2
25
N
62
E
2
70
N80
E
1
7
N
18
E
1
35
N
75
0
0
66
Total di
.stance
b*
At each tflrn mad e by these lines except the las three which run thru
a wet terrain, the river' receives a brook of more or less importance. Its
sources lie on a plateau about 3 or 4 mi south of the Notre Dame Mts. which!
is a nuch lower terrain and constitutes the divide between the St. Lawrence
River and the Bale dec Chalem , a space of terrain which extends east and
west much beyond the A tte which comprises only 12 - 14 mi. The waters of
these sources are brought to the entrance of a deop ravine or gorge of the
mountain by 3 principal streams which meet at this point, two of which
follow/ the same line, but in opposite directions, are in the direction of
the stratification and mark the- edge of the “otre Dame formation while the
third makes a partial section almost at right angles whifch the others thru
the strata which rest on these rocks in a southerly direction.
The whole area which the Chatte drains does not exceed perhaps 300 sq .
mi. About half of this area lies south of the large mountains or between
them. They send the tribute of their waters principally by two deep longi¬
tudinal valleys, directly opposite each other' in the direction of the chain
which extends each side of the gorge for about 6 mi, and which discharging
there are terminated by two high summits at their extremities, and 13 mi
apart in a straight line while several transverse valleys come to their
aid in making ravines and fashioning the mt . mass into a considerable
number of small mountains or secondary mountain chains ( eontref orts ) less
high but important .
We visited the two principal summits On climbing that toward the
east which is exactly opposite the lower part of the valley of the Chatte
and seems to terminate it, when one sees it from the St, Laurence, we
climbed the north slope of the chain which presents -a fa^ce of which the
declivity cannot be less than 45° by 3000 ft, and we found that before the
horizon showed on the low hills between us fend the (St, Lawrence) River
(fleuve not riviere) we had reached an elevation of 1753 ft, above its sur¬
face, The highest spring of water which we could discover is found at an
elevation of 3544 ft. The water of this spring, coming from the strata at
upper
the base of the peak is abundant and of an excellent potable quality.
The summit of the peak itself which is a point or crest of bare rock has
3768 ft, elevation whil‘d the flat and broad top of another mount'1. in to
which we gave the name Mattaouisse, name which in Micrnac means porcupine,
because we killed one of these animals, in climbing one of its slopes, and
on which we spent thfe firfet night of our climb, having arrived there by
mistake , is 3365 ft, A deep ravine separates It. Mattaouisse from the
from another
principal peak and another separates it , in the form of a dome.
As to the principal summit on the west of the Chatte River to which
we gave the name Mt . Bayfield in honor of Capt . Bayfield who has indicated
the position on one of his maps, we found that it has an elevation of 3471
feet after having arrived by a very hard and fatiguing climb from the gorge
to a "noyau" or massive escarpment of a mountain 2669 ft high which acquired
the name of Bonhomme from the esistence of. a large ro<ck as standing on a
step of its slope in the attitude of a man who spied what was passing below
and by a route along the chain or crossing the mountain with a triple
summit more than 3000 ft separated from ivlt . Bayfield by two ravines and an
intermediate mountain of medium elevation.
'•11 those heights given between the two principal summits are the
little chains or links of a chain, situated on the north of the longitudinal
very high I
valleys which have been mentioned and altho they constitute the At oothed I
ridge, none of them is morp than a mile from the northern base of the whole I
range. The five miles which compose the rest of its breadth present lower ■
summits and one of the higher of those summits which comes out in a re- 1
markable wanner on the east side of the gorge and to which T,ro gave the name I
of Mt . du Sud is found to have 2413 ft oi ovat ion . All these mt . summits I
as well as the crest of the north are escarpements on their north side and g
generally with a gentler slope on the south side, in the probable direction H
which in this part of the chain can he considered as E, N. E . and W. S, S,
magnet ically , I
From the hi ghost summit wo visited, the .nxxxxlpat: spectacle, the panorama*
which unfolded for us was grand and magnificent to the highest degree. In ||
the north half of the circle, the waters of the St. Lawrence, ornate with ||
its ships and fishing vessels, extended to right and to loft, as far as I
our eyes could reach. Or its northern shore immediately in fr om of our I
position one could distinguish by the unaided eye the lighthouse of the ■
Points des Monts at some 50 miles away where the granite hills which rise ■
immediately above it in the interior sink gradually to the horizon as fast aJ
they are more distant .when we follow them to the entrance of the gulf, to a H
point where we think we could discern the island of Anticosti 100 miles away
theu the haze caused by distance, whig e at our feet were disposed in parallel
lines the hills and vail eyS between us and the liver (fleuve). To the cast
a confused mass of mountains and ravines belonging to the chain of the
Notre Dame mountains filled several degrees of the circle and we suppose th
that one of the summits whore we saw a spot of snow was higher than that
where we were. Several peaks were bear and as they retire one behind the I
other and ocouoy a smaller anrlo in the perspective it became difficult |
to distinguish those of the Notre Dame Moun tains from those which belong to #
other chains. Turning to the south the picture is occupied by a sea of 1
ridges or hills parallel undulating, and we presume that farther away a
plateau or an elevated plain with some remarkable points elevated in cones
and domes; and by an "erf on cement" or opening which was probably the va'iley
of some river to the south, we distinguished at the horizon a bluish "lueur"
who ch we thought might be New Brunswick. The prominent points became still
mors rare in turning toward the west until the horizon was again interrupted
wo! 1 -marked
in this direction by the contour of a quite distant part of the chain on whi
which we wore ,
The highest summits in our view were generally of bare rocks. Those
which followed them immediately in the scale were crowned with dwarf
" spinet te,s" or "s' Mn^ttes" sturd v and v^ry much branched of which several
were no+ more than 5 ft high but gr owning so close together that their
branches interlaced. Tt was very difficult to force ones passage . On
still 1 ov'er summits, the sapinette was mixed writh bouleau bianc and the
he i edit of the trees increased gradual 1 yas the cl evati on diminished . A
trait which was noticeable to us in the vegetation, at a certain height
on the mountains -and which could rot bat be agreeable to us after having
been as it were impri sored in the forests situated at their fnd was the
great extent of meadows which showed on every side except the north. Broad
spaces to the east, south and west were carpeted by a very r i oh vegetation
and especially by the great diversity of species of ferns in the midst of
which rose here and there groups of sapinette s or boul.o&u bianc or these
two species of trees together, which gave almost the appearance of park
or lawn to the mountain sides as if art had arranged and distributed all
for ornament and presented often combined with the peaks the ravines and
a distant horizon, a countryside of grand beauty.
3row University,
Providence, B* X*,
BQVCa&er 22, 1923#
Professor H« i»* feraald,
&ray Her Dari in,
Cambridge S0, Hast .
Dear Perns! d?
I found Dodge had the .^ogrm article already for ne tat I die not
notice until i got back that the translation contained no ir-foxmtion
as to the date of juog«n*s trip. Ar. 1 understt ;tt it .\cgan r.ade Me trip
in 1644 and the publication erne out in 3X46. Xe tale - correct?
I was in such, a hurry yesterday test I did act realise until I got
•way fioffl the dray Herbarium that you did not turn over to rx the ucp
that I sent you with such correct lour ac you ney znv.t incorporated*
If you don't get around to doing this before the next club rating you
con hand it to me at that time* If you have ua&u corrections they may
be of help in revising the map which I would lire to do very coon*
Of course, if you have no corrections, on the map there is no need of
returning it#
ton my "be intern a too in .knowing that Dodge transcribed lagan's
measurement e, directions and distances on to a piece of wrapping paper
on the same scale as •/ .aco a fi i’ouBi, very much to my surprise, that
the locations, broods and distances chocked up almost exactly with ay
map which was made without any knowledge or at least any detailed
Fernald, M. L*
22 Ti 23
-2-
recol lection of Logan’s description* 2hle was, se I say, a great
surprise out very interest log.
lou will also be interested in knowing that the two views, that
you supposed were taken from the. ridge above the Looked Camp and
which, neither of us could correlate with our recollections of the
topography of the region, proved to bo two of the views that Lodge
took from the top of -ri scorn locking eastward, cad the rounded dome,
which we tried so unsuccessfully to fit Logan, is really convert© da
Chaudrozu Moreover, these two views overlap the other views of one
of a partial panorama of -4sk two that Lodge took from the top of Griscom.
Shis tseanc that we did not see the views taken from the ridge above
Looked Camp yesterday afternoon* 1 understood you to say that these
views did not turn out wall, or perhaps you used ever a stronger ex¬
pression than that* If this is correct it may bo that no hints were
made of than but, if it is not correct and you happen to have cob© prints
from that location, oven though very poor, 2 would be glad to set them
as they may help in checking up on tae general nap and modal.
Sincerely,
j. FmiELxi? coll is 3 ,
die /ebb
Pathologist
Iberbartum
Ibarvarb ^University)
B. L. ROBINSON, Curator
Asa Gray Prof. Syst, Bot.
M. L . FERNALD,
Fisher Prof. Nat. Hist. (Bot.)
DAY, Librarian
sami M.-viwecwT,
Assistant in Library
IVAN M. JOHNSTON, Assistant
Tear Collins;
I am inclosing a carbon of what I have written in re¬
gard to the Mt. Logan region for the Geographic Review, end shall
be glad if you will look it over and make any suggestions. Besides
your map, of course, I have a large series of photographs which
can be used. I am having glossy prints made of the more important
ones and so far as I remember my own negatives are so much clearer
than yours that I think enough can be got from ray own without
bothering you. It may be that when the lot is rounded up I shall
have to bother you for one or two prints.
Thank you very much for the two very clear prints of the St.
Fabien region which came promptly.
In regard to men who might possibly work on the Chestnut survey;
I rather doubt if I have any one available just now, since the
students who are best equipped are scattering. Our assistant,
Johnston, is starting in a week for California by automobile with a
friend to return in the autumn; Fasset will assist in the bummer
School; my assistant of next year, Dunbar, is goin& to Newfoundland
with me, as is also Prince, another Graduate Student of great pro¬
mise. The only other man who would be particularly appropriate for
this work is Brumbaugh, who expected to go to Newfoundland with me,
out is obliged to be at home in western New York to help on the farm.
So I seem to be rather deficient in men who might help you out.
I shall have to go to the cape the middle of next week to attend
to various things there, and it is possible that I cannot be back in
time for the Club meeting, though I shall make an effort to get up on
a train which reaches Boston between G and 7 Friday night. In case
I do not see you and you have further inquiries in regard to men for
the work on the Chestnut, let me know, and I will think again
whether there is any one who could fit into the job.
CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.A,
May 29, 1924.
mlf/fmg
Inclosure
Sincerely yours
Juno 1, 1924
13 3rovn Street,
Providence,
Pear Parnald;-
I 'nave jour letter dated Pa y 29 with enclosed copy of the
article for the Geographical Review.
I ara surprised tc find my name in the prominent place you have given it,
I aid not oapeot it ana aca rath or dubious as to its appropriateness. if
on sober second thought you still fell inclined tc keep it there I shall of
course regard it as a distinct compliment although inappropriate .
So far us the text is concerned I think it is to the point and not over¬
done. There are only a few points where I would suggest making any change.
On pcige 5 1 have suggested changing the points of the compass from west
to Northwest [ere] in two places.
On page b 1 have indioatod an insert bv way of emphasizing the charaeer-
istis top of t't . Logan . Perhaps you will prefer to change the wording however,
i’&rther down to the sano rage I have shortened your quotation as the part I
have cut out does net appear in the translation of Logan’s report that Lodge
sent me. .Perhaps there j.s a slip in this and yours is entirely correct.
1 have also changed "s summit" to '’another" to conform to Lodge’s translation,
similarly I have inserted "[the Saddle]" as this appears on the map.
On page 6 I have indicated, a footnote that seems to me might be well to
incorporate either at this or at some other appropriate place in the ms.
Thank you for the information regarding possible assistants on the
Chestnut scouting work. As yet I have heard nothing further from vVashington
regarding- the matter.
1 am planning to get up to the next Club meeting and will hope to see
you then. If nob 1 want to take this opportunity to wish you all good luck
ci- the prospective Newfoundland trip. I only wish 1 could go along too.
I am inclosing the ms. 1 preusaae you will order some separates and
hope you will include in your order 50 or 75 for me. I will settle with
you later for tie same .when l know the amount.
Sincerely
IN RE
Cable Address Museology New York’
The American Museum oe Naturae History
77th STREET and CENTRAL PARK WEST
NEW YORK CITY
Department of Birds
FRANK M. CHAPMAN, So.D., Curator
July 15, 1924
.Professor J. Franklin Collins
United States Department of Agriculture
Brown University, Providence, R. I.
Dear Professor Collins:
I am very sorry indeed to have been so long in answering
your letter of April Vth, and the information you desire certainly
comes too late for use this season. I did not return from Central
America until the end of April, and I was ill for seven weeks after
that; so that I am only now beginning to catch up on my personal
correspondence. Inclosed you will find a list of the birds which
I observed last summer in Caspe, which I trust is what you wish.
Perhaps Dame Fortune will smile upon me sufficiently to
enable me to see you at a meeting of the New England Botanical Club
next season, or to be associated with you again on a field trip.
With best regards, I am
LG:FB
Inc.
Sincerely yours,
Ludlow Uriscom,
Assistant Curator of Birds.
T •
List of Birds Observed in Gaspd, Summer 1923
By Ludlow (iris com
Black Guillemot - ow. <hJL^ White-throated Sparrow -
Herring Gull — CjCTWvV , Chipping Sparrow - C-o-vv^
Great-blue Heron - ^ Slate-coloured Junco - ak-X.
Black-crowned Night Heron - c<rv>v. Song Sparrow -
Spotted Sandpiper- cu>vw. Lincoln's Sparrow
Canada Huffed Grouse -cxS^A.. Cliff Swallow — /)JLO ,
Red-tailed Hawk - Barn Swallow
Osprey — Tree Swallow » o«-w~.
Belted Kingfisher - ^cuJLjC^,, Bank Swallow ^ tn«-»
Downy .Vood-pecker - Cedar Waxwing -
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker Hed-eyed Vireo -
Northern Flicker - Blue-headed Vireo _
Night hawk - c*>vw. Tennessee Warbler -
Chimney Swift - <Ur~~- Northern Parula Warbler -
Huby-throated Hummingbird Yellow Warbler -
C^v^.
Winter Wren - c
Brown Creeper - Co^~.
Red-breasted Nuthatch -
Chicadee -
Acadian Chicadee
Golden-crowned Kinglet
Ruby-crowned Kinglet- &-V-X-4L
Veery -
Gray-cheeked Thrush -
Olive-backed Thrush -
Hermit Thrush -
Robin -
Spruce Partridge -
Northern Hairy Woodpecker- ffvi*.
Arctic Three- Toed "
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher Black- throated Blue Warbler- 'voAU2.Kortjlern Pileated "
Alder Flycatcher
Canada Jay -
Northern Raven -
Crow - <uj-uvs..
Bronzed Grackle ~ cu»wv.
White-winged Crossbill -crv\*
Goldfinch - ^O’Wv .
Pine Siskin - oXX.
Savannah Sparrow -
Wirf-te-orownod Sparrow
%rtle Warbler - 1
Magnolia Warbler -
Bay-breasted Warbler -
Black-poll Warbler -
Blackburnian Warbler _ C-Ot^w,
Olive-sided Flycatcher
Northern Horned Lark W- ojed**^-
Vesper Sparrow -
English Sparrow ^
Swamp Sparrow - «-w r J» CM/v
Black- throated Green Warbler ^Nashville Warbler -
Oven bird - Canada Warbler -
Water Thrush - — Pipit _ W . .
Mourning Warbler -
Redstart -
Brown University,
Provi deuce, ii,I«
17 July 1924,
Mr. Ludlow Urlscom,
The American Museum of
Natural History,
77th St. & Central ;ark W. ,
Hew Sark City,
Dear G-ri scorn:
I ijave your letter of July 15, enclosing the list
of birds observed last summer, and wish to thank you for the
same. I am very sorry to hear that you have been ill, but hope
you are getting all right again now, 1 did not knot? that you
had gone to Central America , but i suspected that you were out of
town on a trip somewhere.
Sincerely with beat regards,
JFC /mME
j. imzrjLm col:, ms .pathologist
ft
IS Brown Street
Providence, R.l.
July 15, 1935
Pear Alice;
1 have your letter of the 10th from Colorado Springs.
The plant from Pixes leak is one oi the vening Primroses.
Your question about Gasp* is a rather large order; 1 will answer it briefly -
if you want more detail? write me again.
1904( July & August). Starting from it. Kent, Paine. Exploration of Gasp* coast
and rivers— (-the latter by canoe). Riviere du Loup, Tadousac, St. Alphonse-
on-the-Eaguena.y, St. Cecils uu Bic (Bio), St. ^ean 1 'Evangelist, Kouvelle Hiver,
Carleton, Tracadigash Mfc. , Lew Richmond, Little Cascapedia Hiver, latcapedia,
Bonaventure Elver, Ut. Bald*, diver . aval , Grande Riviere, Perce, Qap Blanc,
:t. Ste. Anne, Perc* Mt . , t. Rouge, Grande Coupe, Corner Beach, Pouglastown,
iouglastown River, Gasp* Basin, Partmouth River, Cacouna, Tadousac.
1905(July & iug. ) niviere du Loup, Bic, St. ilavie. Grand lascapedia River,
Little" Cascaredia, Carleton, T'erc*, Barachois, Gasp* Basin, York River,
Mont Louis, Ste. Anne des Monts, Ste. Anne Elver and Mt. Albert (2 weeks).
1906 (July >. ug.) Bic, J es Michins, Little Metis, 5 weeks away from civili.ation
exploring Lhickehook Mt. in vicinity *f t. albert ana tabletop Mt., Ste. jam*
des -oats,
1907 .July, the headlancs and marches east and west of Bic; arly August in vicinity
cf Pare*, including Bonaventure Island.
1923 (duly) Exploration of Shickshock MtS. in vicinity of t. Logan, "attouisse
and Collins.
1929 ate July and early august, an automobile trip of 2700 miles stopping at
various places in 'aine, Lew Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Gasp*, making a complete
circuit of the Gasp* peninsula via the Just completed Perron Boulevard, to
Quebec City and back via Jackman ana Port Ian- , -aine.
Sincerely
J .1.0.
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11