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Timtrzt 


The  estate  of 

MORTIMER  C  LEVENTRITT 


A  gift  to  the  Stanford  University  Libraries 


SOT? 


4U 


*.>:t>v 


JOURNAL 

OTA 

TOUR  AND  RESIDENCE 

IV 

tfr cat  &rttamt 

DURING  THE  YEARS  1SIO  AND  MIL 


LOUIS  SIMOND. 
n 


VOLUME  FIRST. 

BECOSD  EDITION,  CORRECTED  AMD  EVLAR.. 
TO  WSKiI  It  AD0U> 

AN  APPENDIX  ON 
rairrzy  ij*  I'rctmix  1SI5,  ash  ocrosr*  1810 


EDINBURGH; 

»Oft  AKCIfl»ALDCO¥lTAftt.e  »JdKowr*ST,  iui  khiir.. ii  ;   AtfD 
lo.vcmak,  uu&kT,  >in,<inui,  avo  mow.  iohcom. 


1817. 


?h 


Z5 


^ 


ifn 

/.I 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


This  Journal  was  originally  written  in  Eng- 
lish, nearly  as  it  now  appears;  but. being  in- 
tended chiefly  for  the  benefit  of  my  country- 
men, it  was  fully  prepared  for  publication  in 
French  ;  when  it  was  suggested  to  me,  that, 
as  it  could  not  at  that  time  have  been  printed 
on  the  Continent,  if  it  had  any  success  at  all 
in  this  country,  it  would  be  translated  im- 
mediately, and,  in  all  likelihood,  very  wretch- 
edly, and  that  I  had  better  Undertake  the  task 
myself,  having,  in  fact,  the  materials  ready. 
I  now,  therefore,  venture  to  give  the  original 
English  Journal,  such  as  it  was  written  at  the 
moment,  with  very  little  alteration  ;   having 


ADVEtTtSEMENT. 

only  had  to  translate  the  extended  remarks, 
thai  were  added  in  preparing  it  for  the  press, 

— which  has  been  done  with  considerable  li- 
■ise,   and    without    confining  myself  very 
s>tiicdj  to  the  letter  of  the  French  original. 


I  am  perfectly  aware  of  the  double  danger 
to  which  a  foreigner,  offering  to  the  English 
public  an  account  of  England,  written  in  the 
English  language,  exposes  himself.  Any 
apology  on  the  subject,  would,  I  know,  be 
vain  mid  UttJqM  i  Wd«  having  staled  inv  mo- 

ti\is,  f  iWuw  mvseh"  on  the  indulgence  of 
the  public*  No  man  i*  expected  to  write 
perfectly  a  foreign*  language  ;  perhaps,  in- 
deed, he  loses  the  finer  tad  of  his  own  as  he 
acquires  the  familiar  use  of  another,  and  is 
perfect  in  neither. 

Such  wonderful  changes  have  taken  place 
inn'  this  Journal  was  written,  that  a  cor 
derublc  part  of  the  views  ami  opinions  it  re- 
cords are  now  completely  out  of  dale.    Yet 
an  account  of  tilings  as  they  were  at  the  zi> 


ADVEHTISEMZNT.  WJ 

nith  of  that  power  which  hid  enslaved  the 
world,  nay  still  possess  some  interest  .*  and 
serve  to  shew  what  resources,  and  J»w  mveh 
life  and  strength  remained  in  that  insulated 
corjaer  of  Europe,  to  which  the  conqueror 
was  seeking  a  ford,  from  the  shores  of  the 
Baltic  to  those  of  Spain  and  Portugal*     ■  : 


N.  R— The  Author  etched  himself  the 
{dates  of  tile  second  edition ;  although  un- 
practised in  the  art,  he  thought  the  intention 
and  spirit  of  his  own  drawings  would  be  best 
understood  by  himself. 


,» 


r 


.  *  ■.>,*•.  .<    ■  fi  *j 


PREFACE. 


The  Writer  of  tln«  Journal  lis*  spent,  nearly  two 
years  in  Great  Britain,  without  any  other  object 
tlian  that  of  seeing  the  country,  lie  was  burn  in 
France,  and  liad  muled  more  than  twenty  years 
in  the  United  .States  of  America  before  he  made 
this  voyage.  To  give  the  friends  he  had  left  in 
America  the  pleasure  of  following  him  141011  the 
map,— of  seeing  and  thinking  with  him,— and 
in  order  to  retain  some  traces  of  new  objects, 
die  remembrance  of  which  would  otherwise  soon 
have  faded  on  hta  memory,  he  sent  to  llicm,  from 
tlie  first,  a  journal  of  what  he  saw  and  did,  faith- 
fully and  plainly  recorded.  Such  a  jounul  u 
like  gathering  fruit  in  ;»  bqafcet.  li  you  attempt 
it  with  your  hands  only,  when  they  arc  full,  you 
drop  what  you  have  already,  in  endeavouring  to 

get  wore- 


*HEJ"AC£. 


TIm?  Journal  was  written  in  English,  because 
the  thing*  and  persons  the  traveller  saw  were 
best  described  in  the  language  of  the  country, 
which  is  become  familiar  Uj  him  by  long  habit. 
It  was  seen  in  England  by  a  few  friends,  who 
read  parte  of  it  with  interest,  and,  for  the  first  time 
in  bis  life,  the  idea  entered  his  mind  of  writing  a 
book  !  He  docs  not  mean  to  throw  any  respon- 
-ilnlity  onhis  friends;  none  of  them  pressed  him 
to  publish  \  he  did  not  yield  to  tlitir  solicitations , 
and  he  alone  i*  amwcraWc  for  the  consequences, 
alarming  as  tlicy  may  be.  He  was,  indeed,  curou- 
raged  by  the  consideration  that  nu  French  travels 
in  Knglaod  had  come  u>  his  knowledge  deserving 
of  notice.  M.  Faujas  dc  .St  Fowl  gave  all  his 
attention  to  minerals ;  Madame  Roland,  Madame 
dc  Gcnh»,  ;ind  Madame  dc  Sucl,  hnvc  spoken 
incidentally  of  what  they  have  seen  in  England, 
through  the  medium  of  their  various  prejudices, 
or  lor  effect  in  works  of  imagination.  In  remoter 
timet,  the  Chevalier  Hamilton  published  only 
the  dtroniyuc  uandakHtt  of  a  profligate  court* 
&dly  thought  only  of  his  ranlkusy. 

Their  present  successor  did  not  merely  traverse. 
England  ; — he  lived  in  it  without  business,  an.i 
was  not  pressed  for  time.     His  wife,   who  h 


ran  fact. 


XI 


BWgliili  w«  whh  him  ;  ami  he  owe§  to  Iter  in- 
ffoductiuu  a  greater  share  of  domestic  intimacy 
lhao  foreigners  usually  enjoy  in  England,  or  in- 
deed in  am  country.  Uh  acquaintance  with  the 
language  enabled  him  to  observe  with  greater 
ease  and  accuracy  than  the  generality  of  French 
JOUnMa,  In  short,  he  might  hope  to  do  better 
what  none  had  done  well. 

Private  anecdote*  have  been  excluded  as  much 
as  possible.  It  isi  a  great  sacrifice ;  for  they  do 
not  merely  amuse  the  reader,  but  they  initiate 
Um  into  the  peculiarities  of  national  manners, 
ami  the  mysteries  of  domestic  life.  'Hiey  in- 
struct without  the  form  of  instruction.  You  may 
them  to  your  friends  ;— but  it  is  an  unpar- 
donable indelicacy  to  make  a  public  exhibition 
of  those  who  have  opened  theirdours  to  you,  ami 
shewn  you  kindness. 

At  die  same  time  that  personalities  were.  Mmck 
out,  the  traveHer  was  tempted  to  extend  those 
occasional  remarks  he  had  introduced  in  his  ori- 
ginal Journal,  on  the  constitution,  the  commerce, 
die  finances,  and  I  ilicsof  Great  Britain ; — 

on  it*  geology  and  its  literature,  lie  perceived 
at  last  tlwt  he  had  made  essays  instead  of  re- 


I 


Xli 


PREFACE. 


marks,  and  that  (ho  events  and  ohjeds  out  of 
which  the  Jotter  grew  naturally,  did  Dot  so  well 
account  for  the  former.  Hit  friends  have  found 
alto,  that  be  digressed  too  abruptly  irotn  one  sub- 
ject to  another  totally  unconnected,  and  lie  Iia* 
been  advised  to  class  and  arrange  his  materials 
under  different  heads  or  chanters.  It  would  have 
recasting  hi*  work  altogether,-— an  under- 
taking  above  hi*  strength  or  patience,  and  the 
advantage  of  which  did  not  appear  to  him  ade- 
quate to  Uie  labour.  There  is  a  certain  ehur  m 
in  thej«woal-forw,aiida}tettuliar  interest,  which 
it  was  not  worth  while  to  sacrifice  to  greater  or- 
der. Had  be  made  separate  chapters  on  the  go- 
vernment, on  political  economy,  &c,  few  reader* 
j  rjuld  have  taken  the  trouble  of  cutting  the  leave* 
of  &uch  chapters.  They  may  just  as  easily  skip 
digressions  m  chapters,  and,  glancing  over  the 
margin,  read  only  where  dates  shew  them  that 
the  traveller  is  again  on  the  nmd,  and  tell*  of 
what  he  saw  and  not  of  what  he  thought,— as  in 
novels  reflections  arc  parsed  over,  to  conic  to* 
the  story  and  adventures. 


lie  bad  collected  some  information  respecting 
Ireland,  which  he  thought  might  be  interesting 
to  foreign  reailcrs ;  but  aa  lie  did  not  see  that 

H 


PlUIFACl. 


XIU 


part  of  the  Uritish  empire,  and  had  no  opportu- 
nities of  personal  observation,  he  has  introduced 
remarks  in  an  Appcndi 

There  arc  so  few  French  travel*,  tint  the  pub- 
lication o!  thu  Journal  might  require  an  apoiogy 
in  trance )  in  England  it  cannot  be  deemed  nc- 
cesaary.  Nothing  is  more  unnal  for  an  Km; 
man,  who  has  crowed  the  channel,  spent  his 
month  or  ax  weeks  at  Pari*,  when  such  a  thing1 
couhl  be  done,  and  pushed  aa  far  as  the  Lake  of 
Geneva,  than  to  puMi-Ji  on  his  return  u  Tour 
through  France  and  Switzerland.  The  public, 
indeed,  n  not  always  grateful  for  such  favours,' 
and  is  apt  sometime*  to  lau^h  at  the  traveller  and 
his  book.  Yet  this  multiplicity  of  accounts  of 
igD  countries,  ("mm  real  observation,  has  fur- 
niaked  new  faces,  spread  jrencral  information, 
and  tended  to  dissipate  prejudices.  There  are, 
accordingly,  fewer  in  England  than  in  France,— 
although  the  French  are  unconscious  of  theirs. 

Should  this  work  be  favourably  received  la 
Kugland,  the  success  would  be  the  more  flatter- 
ing,  from  the  author's  having  done  Ihtlc  to  please. 
He  has  spoken  with  freedom,  d  charge  and  a  dt- 
charge,  but  always  with  perfect  sincerity,  and, 


XIV  PREFACE. 

be  believes,  with  strict  impartiality.  This  might 
not  prove  a  recommendation  everywhere,— but 
he  really  hopes  it  may  in  England. 

The  author  has  not  spoken  of  Bonaparte !  This 
silence  in  the  times  in  which  we  live  may  appear 
singular,  and  deserves  some  notice  or  explana- 
tion. He  knows,  in  (act,  his  Imperial  and  Royal 
Majesty  only  through  the  medium  of  the  news- 
papers, and  has  no  new  facte  to  communicate. 
As  to  what  he  may  think  of  him,  the  opinions 
expressed  in  the  work  on  matters  of  government 
will  ifiform  his  readers  sufficiently. 

n/  VI-     •■    • :  /  t    ?*'i«r* 


. .  \  i 

»  •  «  •      ■    ■  -.        ■■  ■        'i 

>•■    •.    "■   • ,  .  i  -*»• 

V  .      -.  -'    .  .**•    -  -  ..<!# 

..>  .■■•:         •..-..'...•       »  TO 

TOUR  AND  RESIDENCE 

IS 

GREAT  BRITAIN. 


JOURNAL, 


9.4-th  December,  1809. 

We  found  ourselves,  on  waking  this  morning 
early,  anchored  in  the  harbour  of  Falmouth, 
where  we  had  arrived  in  the  night,  after  a  speedj 
and  prosperous  passage  of  twenty-one  days  from 
America,  without  a  single  storm  to  describe,  or 
any  extraordinary  occurrence.  This  harbour  is  a 
small  basin,  surrounded  with  gentle  hills.  Look- 
ing round,  we  saw  green  fields,  with  cattle  gra- 
zing,— a  grove  of  trees, — some  pines,  and  many 
green  tufts  like  laurels.  The  town  of  Falmouth, — 
little,  old,  and  ugly,— was  seen  on  our  left,  and 
another  assemblage  of  little  old  houses  on  our 
tight,  (Flushing)  ;  Fendennis  Castle  behind  us, 
on  a  mound  near  the  entrance  of  the  harbour. 

VOL.  L  A 


2 


LANDING— ».U-MOI.-ril. 


The  air  was  — the  sky  of  a  very 

pule  blue, — a  light  mist  hull);  over  t Jl<?  land- 
scape,—and  the  general  impression  was  peaceful 
and  agreeable :  on  the  surface  of  the  water 
twenty  or  thirty  ships  mostly  packets,  and  two 
or  rhrcc  Dutch  vescla  wuh  licenses, — a  strange 
sort  of  trade  1  The  custom-house  officers  muster* 
cd  in  crowds  about  the  ship,  ransacking  every 
corner :— Barrels  and  bags  boxes  and  hampers  of 
i.  jinn:  lions,  empty  mil  full 

ones,  musty  straw  and  papers,  ami  all  that  the 
dampnea^f  a  ship,  pitch  and  tallow,  and  the  hu- 
man species  confined  in  a  narrow  space,  can  pro- 
duce of  offensive  sights  and  smells,  were  exposed 
in  open  day.  These  custom-house  officers  have? 
M:ucd  a  certain  surplus  of  stores  beyond  what  a 
ship  is  allowed  to  bring  in  port,  whether  the  voy- 
age has  been  long  or  short  1  overheard  the  head 
scizcr  asking  the  Captain  whether  he  preferred 
having  his  wine  or  his  spirits  seized  ;  and  the 
Captain  seemed  to  lake  the  proposal  in  \cry  good 
part,  and  told  mc  afterwards  the  man  was 
friendly  to  him.     In  this  general  confusion  no 

Could  be  expected;  and  permi 
being  procured  for  the  passengers  tn  laud,  with 
their  baggage,  every  one  was  eager  to  make  his 
pc.  1  went  on  shore  to  reconnoitre,  and  to 
secure  comfortable  quartern,  and  brought  back 
hot  iolb,— - the  olive-branch  to  the  ark. 


FALMOUTH THE  ISS. 


The  houses,  in  a  confused  bM{fc  crowd  on  the 
water ;  tin-  tide  washes  tht'ir  foundations,  a  blank 
wall,  built  of  rough  stones,  that  stand  on  cod,  to 
facilitate  the  draining  of  the  water,  and  steps 
overgrown  with  sea-weed*,  to  ascend  to  die  doors. 
Through  one  of  these  odd  entrances  I  introdi. 
my  companions  to  the  hotel, — a  strange,  old,  low 
building,  extremely  neat  inside,  with  a  tempting 
larder  full  in  view,  displaying,  on  shelves  of  tiles, 
fish  of  all  sorts  fat  fowls,  kc.  Well-dressed  ser- 
vants, civil  and  attentive  wait  our  commands. 
We  arc  put  in  possession  of  a  sitting-room  and 
two  bod-rooms.  Our  windows  overlook  two  or 
three  ilirmiiiiir.  B  streets  without  foot-paths, — too 
narrow,  indeed,  for  anv, — ill  up  and  down,  ami 
crooked.  It  is  Sunday.  The  men  are,  many  of 
them,  in  volunteer  uniforms,  and  look  well  enough 
for  citixen  soldiers  ;  the  women  highly  dressed, 
or  rather  highly  undressed,  in  extremely  thin 
draperies,  mow  shout  with  an  elastic  gait  on  the 
light  fantastic  patten,  making  a  universal  cluim 
of  iron  on  the  pavement.  Kuddy  countcuai 
and  embonpoint,  are  very  general  and  striking. 
Gr*J  young  astonishment  was  awakened  at  the 
I  of  ■  sedan-chair,  vibrating  along  on  two 
poles.  A  monstrous  carriage  turned  the  comer 
of  a  street,  overladen  with  passengers,— a  dozm, 
at  least,  on  the  top,  before,  and  behind  ;  all  this, 
resting  on  four  high  slender  wheels,  drawn  along 


4  FAL>fOUXH— HOUSES. 

full  speed  on  a  rough  unequal  pavement.  Wc 
observed  6ome  men,  in  old-fashioned  cockcd-hati 
with  silver  Jace,  compelling  a  Quaker  to  shut  his 
shop; — which  was  opened  again  the  moment  they 
were  gone.  An  elegant  putt-chaise  and  four  stop. 
pal  at  the  door.  A  young  man,  fat  and  fair, 
with  the  lace  and  figure  of  a  baby,  six  feet  high, 
slighted  from  it  ;  it  was  the  Marquis  ofS.  the 
first  man  of  quality  we  had  seen  in  England,  lie 
goes  we  arc  told,  to  lounge  away  his  ennui  and 
his  idleness  beyond  seas — a  premature  attack  of 
the  rnaUtdic  du  pays.  The  English  maladk  du  pays 
is  of  a  peculiar  character;  H  is  not  merely  the  re- 
sult of  extreme  regrets  when  they  have  left  their 
country,  and  of  that  perpetual  longing  to  return, 
felt  by  other  people,  but  an  equal  longing  to  leave 
it,  and  a  sense  of  weariness  and  satiety  all  the 
time  they  are  at  home. 

Dinncrannutiuced,  suspended  ourobscrvations; 
it  was  served  in  our  own  apartments.  We  had 
three  small  dishes,  dressed  very  inartilieinlly  (an 
English  cook  only  boils  and  roasts),  otherwise 
very  good.  The  tabic  linen  and  glass,  and  ser- 
vant ,  remarkably  neat,  ami  in  good  order.  At 
the  dessert  apples  no  bjggtt  than  walnuts,  uiul 
without  taste,  which  are  suid  to  be  the  beat  the 
country  produces. 

December  S5.— I  have  been  this  morning  to  the 
custom-house,  with  the  other  passengers,  to  get 


*4 


PAssponm  s 

our  passports.  They  obtained  theirs  without  dif- 
ficultly but  I  must  write  to  Ixmdon  tor  mine. 
rtty-two  years  of  alscnce  huvc  not  expiated 
the  original  sin  of  being  born  in  Frattce  :  bat  1 
have  no  right  to  com  plain, — an  Englishman  would 
be  worse  off  in  France. 

We  lave  on  our  arrival  a  double  allowance  of 
news ;  those  which  were  coming  over  to  u*  when 
we  left  America,  anil  what  has  occurred  nine* ; 
an  accumulation  of  about  three  months-  The 
first  thing  we  have  learnt  was  an  Ir:  qui- 

divtionsfldan  expected  Imperial  marriage,  which 
m  .  irii  to  he  a  great  stroke  of  policy.  Political 
news  are  no  longer  what  they  were  formerly ;  they 
come  home  to  every  man's  concern*,  and  state 
affairs  are  become  family  affairs. 

Dfttmbcr  26\— 1  have  been  tatrodOBed  to  seve- 
ral respectable  citizens  of  Falmouth  ;  they  »\\  live 
in  very  small,  old  habitations,  of  which  the  apart* 
rocnt*  resemble  the  cabin*  of  vessels.  A  new 
house  is  a  phenomenon.  The  manners  of  this  re- 
mote corner  of  England  have  retained  a  sort  of 
primitive  simplicity.  I  have  seen  nothing  hera  of 
luxury  and  pride  which  I  expected  to 
-wltere  in  this  warlike  and  commercial  coun- 
t;  v.  There  is  much  despondency  about  Spain* 
and  but  one  voice  against  the  Walcheren  cxpedi* 
lion  and  against  the  ministers  who  are  not  ex- 


$  CORNWALL— CLIMATE — PLANTS. 

with  moss,  even  to  the  smallest  branches  owing 
to  the  prevailing  moisture  of  the  climate.  We 
have  no  creeping  plant?,  in  North  America  which 
preserve  their  verdure  in  winter,  and  the  effect  of 
this  profusion  of  ivy  is  very  striking.  The  mild- 
ness of  the  climntc  is  truly  astonishing ;  gera- 
niums, and  other  green-house  plants,  require  only 
dicker,  without  fire,  in  winter,  and  wall-flowers 
axe  now  in  full  bloom  out  of  doors.  We  have 
seen  to-day  several  gentlemen's  houses  at  a  dis- 
tance, spreading  wide  and  low  over  fine  lawns, 
with  dark  back-grounds  of  pines,  and  clumps  of 
arbutus  ami  laurel,  at  green  at  in  spring.  Near 
dusk,  we  crossed  the  bay  to  Plymouth  Dock, 
amidst  its  floating  castles,  one  of  them  bearing 
!>0  guns.  To-morrow  we  go  to  Mount  Edgc- 
cumbe,  if  the  weather  permits.  This  place  struck 
us  as  very  like  Philadelphia,  and  not  the  modern 
part  of  it.  The  inhabitants,  however,  do  not 
look  much  like  Quakers,  being  mostly  army  and 
nary. 

January  2.— Armed  with  umbrellas  and  great- 
coats, we  set  out  this  morofog  for  Mount  Edgc- 
cumbe,  in  the  midst  of  a  drizzling  rain.  Crossed 
the  bay  at  Crimble  passage  j  landed  on  a  strand 
of  firm  pebbly  sand,  near  the  porter's  lodge.  It 
was  not  the  day  of  admittance,  and  we  were  told 
it  was  necessary  to  write  to  Lord  M.  E.  A  note 
was  dispatched,  and  word  returned  tint  we  were 


. 


MOUNT  XOOCCUMDK. 


welcome,  ami  a  key  given  to  us,  opening  all  gates, 
with  directions  to  And  oar  way,  and  no  gukl 
overlook  us,  which  is  a  refinement  ot  politeness. 
A  gentle  &«ccnt  of  lawn,  skirted  with  old  dies- 
cm  trees  and  elms  leads  to  the  house 5  a  plain 
edifice,  half  gothic,  of  a  greyish  white,  with  a 
fine  back-ground  of  trees  upon  the  hill  behind. 
The  grounds,  which  I  should  judge  not  to  ex- 
ceed  five  or  *i\  hundred  acres,  form  a  sort  of 
headland  on  the  bay.  A  gravel  walk,  eight  or 
ten  feet  wide,  leads  from  the  lodge  ro  the  house, 
and  turning  round  it,  through  the  wood  behind, 
brings  you  to  an  Open  lawn,  (A)  sloping  abrupt- 
ly to  the  water.  A  small  gothic  ruin  stands  there, 
of  modern  erection,  near  which  the  walk  di- 
vides ;  a  branch  descending  to  the  sea-side,  an- 
other keeping  along  the  high  grounds,  and,  af- 
ter plunging  again  into  the  shade  of  a  dark  wood, 
and  passing  through  groves  of  evergreen  trees 
and  shrubs  advances  along  the  precipitous 
heights,  (B)  where  the  sight,  unchecked  by  aoy 
trees,  and  from  an  elevation  of  two  or  three  hun- 
dred feet,  embraces  at  once  the  ocean  on  the 
t  right ;  in  frmir,  on  the  other  side  of  the  bay,  at 
alni  it  one  mile  distance,  *  Que  Ol  I 'wildings,  like 
an  ifftneme  town,  broken  and  diversified  by  for- 
tification*, arsenals,  batteries,  &c.  so  as  not  to 
look  like  a  mere  field  ot  roofs  and  chimneys ; 
and,   in    bird's-crc   view,    linc-of-battlc   ships 


10 


M0C.VT   EDOECUMKE. 


and  frigates  putting  under  your  feet,   with  as 
littli  MOJ  as  boaU  on  u  river.     Thence 

the  walk,   turning  to  the  right,  wccncU  higher 
ground  itiUi  to  a  plain  on  the  tup,  where  an  old 


MOUNT  EDGECOMBE. 


11 


gOthir  church  stands,  (C)  with  a  lower  serving 
Jii  signals.  A  path  along  the  heights,  and  across 
a  wood,  bring*  you  back  to  the  place  of  begin- 
ning,— a  walk  of  two  or  three  miles,  which  took 
us  something  less  than  three  hours. 

There  in  nothing  done  at  Mount  Edgccurabc 
which  agcjitlcn:.  h  ol  moderate  fortune  could  not 
pertir.ii  j  and  nature  herself  has  been  at  no  great 
expense  of  bold  rocks  or  mountains;  it  is  a  lump 
of  earth  sloping  to  the  VVter,  more  or  leas  abrupt- 
ly, JmtwithgmitvimLtj,  and  deeply  indented  wiili 
bays.  Xbi  great  charm  i$  the  contrast  of  Um 
loveliness  and  retirement  of  the  objects  near  v 
with  the  lively  scene  and  richness  and  ironic  . 
ty,  bursting  on  the  virw  here  and  thriv  ;  m -ii,  Up< 
on  the  whole,  this  comes  nearer  to  my  ideas  of 
beauty  than  any  spot  I  ever  saw.  The  green 
walk,  particularly,  I  shall  ever  recollect.  Lau- 
rel* of  such  bright  verdure,  with  large  shining 
leaves;  the  arbutus  and  luurustinus,  <■  villi 

blossoms?  another  evergreen  tree,  i  iing 

the  wild  cheny  of  America,  (Portugal  laurel  wc 

I  are  told) ;  then  such  draperies  of  ivy,  in  ample 
folds  over  the  rocks  and  trees  ;  such  pines  villi 
moss  of  nil  colours,  along  the  tnml;  and  branches; 
and  on  the  ground  turf  :l<  vivid  a*  in  the  spring, 
with  daisies  and  periwinkl.--  in  dower,  and  fern, 
and  furze  with  papilionaceous  blossoms.  Thou 
through  the  trees,  far  below,  the  surf  breaking  iu 


IS 


nDGECCMUE. 


measured  time,   and  spreading  its  white  foam 
among  thr  black  of  the  shore. 

Tin;  But)  luiil  no  share,  in  the  splendour  of  tin; 
scene,  for  it  was  not  visible,  nor  any  part  of  the 
sky  ;  a  misty,  drizzly  something,  like  rain,  drove 
along  in  the  blast,  and  made  us  tolerably  wet  j 
particularly  as  some  deceitful  abearance*  of 
fair  weather,  and  the  heat,  had  induced  us  to 
leave  our  umbrellas  and  great  coat*  at  the  lodge. 
On  our  return  to  the  hotel,  we  shifted  and  dried 
ourselves ;  called  for  a  poit.chaise,  and  pursued 
Oar  ju  inu:y  through  an  endlr.i*  succrflsion  of 
and  arsenals,  and  dock-yards,  and  bar- 
;«,  two  miles  in  length;  some  of  which  wc 
might  have  seen,  but  felt  no  sort  of  inclination. 
At  last  we  regained  the  country  ;  it  is  pretty 
enough ;  the  same  waving  surface  checqucrcd 
with  enclosures,  and  dotted  with  cottages  an*  I 
gentlemen'*  houses,  till  with  their  dark  masses  of 
pines  and  firs,  and  the  same  thicket*  of  lauref, 
arbutus,  and  Immrstiniis,  as  at  Mount  Kdge- 
cumlw.  The  cottages  are  all  thatched,  the  walls 
partly  atone,  and  partly  pix£t  and  with  casements. 
The  people,  in  general,  look  healthy  and  clean  ; 
much  fewer  children  to  be  seen  about  the  houses 
than  in  America. 

January  3.— Slept  at  Ivy-bridge,  a  pretty  name, 
and  a  pretty  place ;— wall-flower*  full  blown  here, 
and  in  many  places  on  the  road,— and  of  course 


n  v-obidgf.. 


much  ivy  about  it,  uml  &  clear  boisterous  little 
alreain.  The  house  superlatively  comfortable; 
nuchempresitmcn:  to  receive  you,— such  readiness 
to  fulfil  every  wish,  as  soon  as  expressed,— such 
good  rooms,  and  so  well  furnished,— »uch  good 
things  to  eat,  and  ag  mO  dressed.  This  is  really 
the  land  of  conveniences,  and  it  b  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  that  the  English  should  complain  of  fo- 
reign inconveniences  in  travelling.  All  this  po- 
lilcneis  and  zeal  has,  no  doubt,  a  sordid  motive  ; 
you  arc  carc**od  tor  your  money ;  hut  the  caresses 
of  the  world  have  nut  in  general  a  much  purer 
motive.  The  semblance  of  btatxeiUance  should 
not  be  blamed  hastily.  Fair  raiment*  do  not  al- 
ways cover  a  fair  skin.  It  may  be  as  well  to  re- 
main ignorant  oF  the  defect*  of  the  miuJ,  as  of 
those  of  the  person  \  to  suspect  them  is  quite 
enough*  The  roads  arc  far  from  magnificent; 
they  are  generally  just  wide  enough  for  two  car- 
riages -f  without  ditches,  but  well  gravelled  with 
pounded  stones,  and,  though  very  dirty,  not  deep. 
A  high  artificial  bank  of  rtone  and  earth,  with 
bushes  growing  on  the  top,  too  often  intercepts 
all  view  beyond  the  next  bend  of  the  road,  not  a 
1  i  u  nixed  yards  of  which  is  visible  at  one  time.  The 
horses  are  in  general  weak  and  tired,  and  unmer- 
cifuliy  whipt, — so  much  so,  as  to  induce  us  often 
to  interfere  in  their  behalf,  choosing  rather  to  go 
slower  than  to  witness  such  cruelty. 


1* 


KXBTX«— TAUSTOX. 


January  4.—  Wc  slept  lart  night  at  Exeter, 
and  arc  arrived  at  Taunton;  64  mile*  in  two 
day*.  We  are  in  no  haste.  The  approach  to  Ex- 
eter i*  very  tine ;  yoti  scu  from  n  full  the  vast  ex. 
tent  of  country  Ik*Iow,  uiih  an  estuary  nt  n  dis- 
tance-, and  hill*  in  gentle  swell*  lost  in  the  hori- 
zon »  it  gives  the  idea  of  an  ocean  of  cultivation. 
The  cathedral  b  a  venerable  pile,  built  in  the 
year  «)00,  (my  information  comes  from  the  old 
woman  who  shewed  it).    Outside  it  appnrad  to 
sac  less  light  and  airy  than  Gothic  architecture 
generally  is,  according  to  my  rtCoflootJOBB*    Ob- 
jects seen  again,  after  an  interval  of  many  yeurs, 
appaaf  no  longer  the  same,  although  unchanged 
in  reality,  and  although  wc  have  not  seen,  in  the 
mc*in  time,  any  other  objects  of  the  name  kind 
that  could  alter  the  scale  of  our  ideas.    Memory 
is  not  a  book  where  things  ami  BvVlta  arc  rc- 
conled,  but  rather  a  field  where  seeds  grow, 
come  to  maturity,  and  die.    The  silent  operation 
i  nc  on  nil  that  lives,  perfecting  and  devtroy- 
i  n  regular  succession,  seems  to  extend  to  the 
mechanical  skill  of  our  fingers.   The  artist  draws 
better  after  laying  down  lus  pencil  for  some  time, 
or  playB  better  on   an  instrument ;    fencing, 
swimming,   arc  improved  likewise.     We  have, 
however,    neither   studied   nor   practised ;    tho 
mind,  as  far  as  we  know,  has  I  wen  inactive,  as  well 
as  the  hand.   Should  we  know  little  before  the  in- 


JM.TKR— CATHi:»SML» 


tamipUoni  we  are  apt  indeed  to  forget  tliat  little  ; 
but,  if  the  skill  was  sufficiently  perfect,  it  in* 
create*  during  a  certain  period  of  inaction  ;  be* 
cornea  stationary  when  longer  intermitted  ;  and 
is  lost  at  bat  by  protracted  disuse. 

Tli  of  the  church  is  too  light,  I  mean 

too  tt&uVe.  and  the  painted  windows  arc  not 
pood.  Those  at  one  end  were  painted  400  years 
ago,  aw  old  woman  said,  and  the  other  end 
within  her  remembrance ;  the  one  too  early,  pro- 
bably, to  be  good,  and  the  other  too  Utc.  Ihit 
when  the  service  began,  wc  forgot  lite  church, 
and  every  thing  else,  in  die  bean 
— angels  in  heaven  cannot  sing  better !    The  or. 

sweet,  powerful,  and  solemn,  formed  a 
single  accompaniment,  without  foppish  flourish* 
ing :— -the  whole  erfcet  superior  to  my  rccollcc- 

Of  the  piatal  chant.  Music  ami  poetry  arc 
certainly  ikmiIv  allied;  one  is  the  mellow  and 
\.-'iu'  ill. stance,  wlwrc  all  itblentkd  into  harm* 
ny*  the  other  is  the  vigorous  foreground,  where 
every  object  is  clearly  defined  and  distinctly 
M  awakens  poetical  enthusiasm  in 
yourself;  lite  other  shew*  you  what  it  has  pro- 
duced in  others. 

The  roads  arc  full  of  soldiers,  nn  foot  and  in 
carriages,  travcllingtowards  Plymouth  ;—  Porta* 
gal  and  India  supposed  to  be  their  destination. 
The  villages  along  the  road  are  in  general  not 


16 


tillage*—  rAiuu— wuxror. 


beautiful, — the  houses  very  poor  iodced  j  the 
walls  old  and  rough,  but  the  windows  generally 
whole  and  clean ;  no  old  haw  or  bundle*  of  rags 
stuck  in,  as  in  America,  where  people  build,  but 
do  not  repair.  Peeping  in,  as  wc  pass  along, 
the  doors  appear  to  be  a  pavement  of  round 
stones  Like  the  streets, — a  few  seats,  in  the  form 
of  *hort  benches,— a  tabic  or  two, — a  spinning- 
wheel, — a  few  shelves, — and  just  now  (Christ- 
mas,) evergnccua  hanging  about.  The  people 
appear  healthy,  and  not  in  rags,  but  not  reuiiuk- 
ably  stout ;  the  women,  I  think,  arc  more  so  in 
proportion  than  the  men,  Wc  meet  very  few 
beggars,  and  those  old  PU  inrirni.  i'arm-houscs 
With  tin-ir  nut  buildings,  luok  remarkably  nc-it, 
and  in  great  order ;  near  theiu  we  see  stacks  of 
hay  and  straw,  of  prodigious  size,  covered  with 
a  slight  thatching,  and  over  that  a  sort  of  net  of 
straw,  to  prevent  the  wind  disturbing  the  thatch. 
Industry,  method,  and  good  order,  arc  conspi- 
cuous everywhere.  Most  of  the  land  is  in  mea- 
dow. Turnips  arc  enormous ;  some  as  large  as 
•  man's  head.  The  cattle  do  not  look  different 
from  our*.  We  meet,  however,  with  morefip- 
turcsguc  korsts  than  in  America,  with  big  shaggy 
legs,  and  heavy  heads. 

January  5. — Arrived  in  the  evening  at  liristol, 
48  miles  in  eight  hours,  stoppages  included  ;  the 
horses  better.    On  approaching  Bristol,  you  see, 


BKlSfOL BL'ILDfNCS. 


17 


from  an  elevation,  a  ridge  on  tl>c  left,  covered 
uitli  country-houses,  grove*  of  trees,  and  green 
fields.  This  ridge  is  intersected  by  a  deep  gap, 
near  which  a  confused  heap  of*  roof*,  towers,  and 
steeples  and  smoke,  mark  the  town  ;  dirty  sub- 
urbs succeeded  to  this  view  •  then  a  bridge  over 
a  mean  and  muddy  stream  ;  through  crowded 
streets  wc  arrived  at  The  Bttth.  The  next  morn- 
ing  shewed  us  opposite  our  windows,  a  large 
building  of  freestone,  in  excellent  style.  The  £r» 
change.  Taking  a  guide,  I  caJled  upon  those  for 
whom  we  had  letters,  and  hzvc  been  obligingly 
received.  English  liospitality  is  not  in  high  re- 
pute ; — so  far,  we  have  no  reason  to  complain 
of  it.  There  is  a  louk  of  comfort  and  neatness 
in  the  inside  of  houses,  whicli  is  very  striking ; 
every  thing  is  substantial  and  good,  and  uniform- 
ly so  in  all  parts  of  the  house ;  and,  a*  to  the 
tabic,  Lucullus  dines  with  Lucullus  every  dav, 
and  little  addition  appear*  necessary  should  a 
few  friends  come  uuexfiectedly.  The  creditable 
nnil  deceal  look  of  the  servants  Is  no  less  rc- 
mafkahle,  and  they  are  the  mainspring  of  all 
the  other  comfort*.  I  urn  perfectly  aware  that 
there  are  many  people  who  have  no  servants, 
and  hardly  bread  to  eat,  and  wbOSC  habitual  Ktatc 
is  tatxnir  and  poverty.  Although  I  have  had  no 
opportunity,  as  yet,  of  becoming  acquainted  with 
(be  situation  of  that  clam  of  people,  I  have  ne- 
void i.  b 


J8 


BftrvroL — nor-ucLCs — bath. 


cemrily  seen  them  at  their  daily  labour,  in  tra- 
vertifȣ  the  country,  and  I  have  had  a  glimpse  of 
their  habitations.  All  I  can  say  is,  that  the  poor 
do  not  tool  .no  poor  here  Oft  in  other  countries ; 
that  poverty  dens  mil  intrude  on  jour  sight; 
and  that  it  is  nocea&ry  to  seek  it.  All  human 
societies  arc  full  of  it, — here  it  does  not  over- 
flow certainly.  One  of  the  best  houses,  and  in 
the ir-rst  munition,  (Clifton)  Ooata  L.2'K> sterling 
a  year,  taxes  included  ; — good  houses,  in  an  old- 
fashioned  part  of  the  town,  are  not  one-fourth 
part  of  that  rent.  The  wages  of  a  nian-tervftOt, 
L.  55  sterling;  a  woman. cook,  L.  J5  sterling; 
me:.!  Kfpeftce  die  pound. 

W«  went  to  «  e  i'm*  IKn-Wi-li-,  ;i  harmless  me- 
dical spring.  The  river  parses  there  the  deep 
gap  which  we  had  seen  on  approaching  the 
town,  through  a  calcareous  ridge*  about  *oo  feet 
high  i — the  ::dc  rises  here  20  feet  and  upwards. 
Immense  dock*  hav-.-  been  built,  nr  rntlur  ;i  new 
bed  ha*  been  dug  for  the  river,  and  the  old  one, 
closed  by  flood-gates,  forms  a  natural  basin  for 
skipping.  We  saw,  however,  but  few  vessel*. 
The  tiadc  of  tltix  port  is  rather  diminishing; 
notwithstanding  this,  the  town  increases,  ami 
looks  mow  i  Krable,  better  built,  and  more 
opulent  than  New  York. 

Ju,  . — Wo  arrived  at  Bath  last  night. 

The  chaise  drew  up  in  style  at  the  White  Ilaxt. 


*4 


•BUILDING. 


iy 


Two  well-dressed  footmen  were  ready  to  help  us 
to  alight,  presenting  an  arm  on  each  side.  Then 
a  loud  bell  on  the  stairs,  and  lights  carried  before 
us  tn  mi  elegantly  furnished  sitting-room,  v. 
the  fire  was  already  blazing.  Jn  a  few  minutes, 
a   neat-looking    chaml>.  .uple 

vlntc  apron,  pinned  behind,  came  to  offer  her 
cet  to  the  ladies,  and  shew  the  bed-rooms. 
In  leas  than  half  an  hour,  five  powdered  gentlemen 
bunt  into  the  room  with  thice  dishes,  &c     and 
two  remained  to  wait.     I  give  this  as  a  sample 
of  the  best,  or  rather  of  the  iinest  inns-     0 1 1 
was  L.  S  :  I  Is  sterling,  dinner  lor  three,  tea,  beds, 
and  break&sr.     The  servants  have  no  wages,-— 
but,  depending  on  the  generosity  of  travellers, 
they  find  it  their  interest  to  please-  them.     They 
(the  servant*)  cost  us  about  five  shillings  a.  day. 
This  morning  wc  have  explored  the  town, 
which  is  certainly  very  beautiful.     It  is  built  of 
freestone,  of  ft  fine  cream -col  our,  and  contains 
several  public  edifices,  in  good  t:*le.     We  re- 
marked a  circular  place  called  the  Crescent,  an- 
other called  the  Circus  j— all  the  streeu  straight 
and  regular.     This  town  looks  as  if  it  had  been 
east  iu  a  mould  ail  at  once  ;  so  new,  so  fresh,  and 
regular.     The  building  where  the  medical  water 
is  drank,  and  where  the  baths  arc,  exhibits  very 
dinercntohjects  |  human  nature,  old,  infirm,  and 
in  ruins,  or  weary  and  ennuy*.     Bath  is  a  sort  of 


0 


20 


BATH— THE  AVOK. 


great  monastery,  inhabited  by  single  people, 
particularly  superannuated  females.  No  trade, 
no  manufactures,  no  occupations  of  any  sort, 
except  that  of  killing  time,  the  most  laborious  of 
oJJ.  Halt  of  the  inhabitants  do,  nothing,  the  61  bei 
half  supply  them  with  nothings: — Multitude  of 
splendid  shops,  full  of  all  that  wealth  and  luxury 
can  desire,  arranged  with  all  the  arts  of  seduc- 
tion. 

Being  in  haste,  and  not  equipped  for  the  place, 
we  left  it  at  three  o'clock,  dined  and  slept  14 
miles  off,  on  the  direct  rood  to  London.  During 
our  ride,  wc  saw  a  little  stream  appear  here  and 
there  among  the  willows,  in  the  vale  below, 
asked  a  woman  at  the  toll-gate  what  the  name 
it  mm :  "  Sure,  sir,  the  Avon  l"  it  is  not  easy  to 
avoid  failing  in  respect  to  Knglisli  rivers,  by  mis* 
taking  them  tor  mere  rivulets.  I  have  heard  an 
Eogh- iini.ni,  who  was  amusing  himself  with  the 
ignorance  prevalent  in  foreign  countries,  tell  a 
of  a  lady,  who  said  to  him,  "  Havu  you  in 
England  any  rivers  like!  this  ?"  (the  Seine)  j  but 
interrupting  herself,  added,  laughingly,*'  Good 
God,  how  can  I  be  so  silly,  it  is  an  island  ;  there 
are  no  rivers !"  1  really  think  the  lady  was  not  so 
very  much  in  the  wrung. 

The  country    is  beautiful,    rich,  and  varies 
with    villas  and  mansions,  and   dark  groves  of 
pines, — sitruta  in  full  bloom,  lawns  ever  green, 


AVOX — RICHMOND, 


21 


ami  gravel  walk*  so  neat,— with  porter*'  lodge*, 
built  in  rough-cast,  and  stuck  all  over  with  flinta, 
in  their  native  grotesquencas ;  for  this  part  of 
England  is  a  great  bed  of  clwlk,  full  of  this  sin- 
gular production  (flints).  They  are  broken  to 
pieces  with  hammers,  and  spread  over  the  road 
in  thick  layers,  forming  a  hard  and  even  surface, 
upon  which  the  wheel*  of  carriage*  make  no  im- 
[>ivs-;m:i.    Tin-  rasda  aore  now  wider]  kepi  In 

season.  The  post-horso  excellent;  and  post- 
boys riding  intfead  of  sitting.  Our  rstc  of  travel- 
ling doc<  »i'  ii  *ix  miles  an  hour,  stoppages 
mehnleil  ;  hut  we  might  go  faster  if  wc  drcired 
it.  We  meet  with  very  few  post-chaises,  hut  a 
great  many  stage-coaches,  mails,  &c.  and  enor- 
mous brood-whccl  waggon*,  The  comfort  of  tlie 
inni  is  our  incessant  theme  at  night,— the  plea- 
sure of  it  is  not  yet  worn  out. 

January  1 1  .—We  arrived  yesterday  at  Rich- 
mond. F  felt  a  sort  of  dread  and  impa- 
tience to  meet  new- old  friend.*,  and  approached 
the  (Jreen  with  no  very  enviable  feeling*.  I 
knew  the  bouse  immediately,  from  the  drawing 
I  had  seen  of  it  Nothing  can  be  more  irtendly 
tlted  the  reception  we  have  met,  and  f  feel  al- 
ready at  my  ease.  Generally  an  inn  is  vastly 
preferable  at  the  end  of  a  journey  to  a  friend's 
house, — unless  a  friend  indeed  :  and  I  have  said 


II 


I 


22 


UCHUOXD—  LOSDOX. 


before,  on  such  an  occasion,  /  hate  a  friend; 
here  I  have  felt  at  my  case  from  the  6rsl 
moment.  This  morning  I  set  out  by  myself  for 
fttrw,  a-*  London  is  called  par  eivcifatee.  in  the 
stagl'-rmrlt,  eranirneil  iti'klt*,  ami  hrthi*  nutswlc 
with  passengers,  of*  all  sexes,  age*,  and  condi- 
tions, "tt'c  Mopped  more  than  twenty  times  on 
the  road — the  debates  about  the  fare  of  way-pas- 
scngcrs— the  settling  themselves— the  getting  up, 
and  the  getting  down,  nn.l  damsela  shewing  tlieir 
leg*  in  the  operation,  and  tearing  and  mudding 
tliciriutticoat*— eomplainingaud  swearing — took 
an  immense  time.  I  never  saw  any  thing  so  ill 
managed.  In  about  two  hour?  wc  reached  Hyde 
P.irk  corner  ;  I  liked  tin;  appearance  of  it;  but 
we  were  soon  lost  in  a  maze  of  busy,  smoky, 
dktj  streets,  more  and  more  so  as  we  advanced. 
A  sort  of  uniform  dinginess  seemed  to  pervade 
tnftrj  thing,  that  is,  the  exterior  \  for  througk 
every  door  am!  window,  the  interior  of  the 
limine,  the  shops  at  least,  which  are  most,  seen, 
presented,  as  we  drove  along,  appearances  and 
colours  rao*t  opposite  to  this  dingincss ;  every 
tiling  there  was  dean,  fresh,  and  brilliant.  The 
elevated  pavement  on  each  side  of  the  streets 
full  of  walker.,  DOt  of  (bo  reach  of  carriages, 
pasting  swiftly  in  two  lines,  without  awkward  iu- 
ence,  each  taking  to  the  right-  At  last  a 
•try  indifferent  street  brought  us  in  front  of  a 


-i 


londom— ar  Paul's. 


S3 


magnificent  temple,  which  I  knew  immediately 
to  be  St  felaV*  and  I  left  the  vehicle  to  examine 
it  The  eflcct  was  wonderfully  beautiful ;  but 
it  bad  less  vastneis  than  grace  and  m^'i. ilkeucc. 
The  colour  struck  rac  as  *t  range, — very  black 
and  very  white,  in  patches  *  >;.»c  some- 

times  half  a  column  ;  the  haae  of  one,  the  capi- 
tal  of  another ;— here,  a  whole  row  quite  black, — 
there,  aa  white  as  chalk.  It  seemed  as  if  there 
had  been  a  fall  of  mow,  and  it  adhered  unequal- 
ly. The  cause  of  thia  in  evidently  the  smuku 
which  covers  London  ;  bat  it  (fl  difficult  to  ac- 
count tor  its  unequal  operation.  This  singular- 
ity lias  not  the  bad  crfeet  which  might  be  expect- 
ed from  it. 

I  had  not  time  for  any  long  examination,  and 
felt  uneasy  and  helpless  in  the  middle  of  an  iin- 
mc-usc  town,  at  which  I  did  not  know  a  single 
street.     A  hackney-coach  seemed  the  readiest 
way  to  extricate  myself,  and  I  took  one.     After 
being  dragged  slowly  along  many  short,  wind- 
ing, dark,  and  crowded  streets,  and  missing  my 
IctU'rs,   which  had  jiai  httm  lOOt  to  Iviclinmnil, 
I  met  with  a  friend,  who  took  mc  under  his  pro- 
tection ;    dismissed   my  hackney-coach,    which 
was  not  better,  and  perhaps  worse,  than  those  of 
Paris,  and  in  which  1  was  surprised  to  find  a  lit- 
ter of  straw,  which  has  a  very  shabby  appeax- 
ance,  but,  being  clunged  every  day,  u  better 


LOMDOft — &W  A  HTA UUILDISOS. 

thaa  a  tilth  v  carpet.  My  friend  conducted  mr 
very  obligingly  back  again  through  the  whole 
In  our  walk  we  passed  several  large 
squires,  planted  in  the  middle  with  large  trees 
and  xhrubs,  over  a  nnoOtb  lawn,  intersected  witli 
giuvcl  walks;  the  whole  inclined  by  an  iron 
railing,  tvbich  protects  these  gardens  against  the 
popul aoe,  hut  tloes  not  intercept  the  view.  The 
inhabitant*  of  the  neighbourhood,  who  contri. 
butc  to  the  expense,  have  each  a  key.  One  of 
these  squares.  Lincoln'*  Inn  Fields,  appears  to 
contain  five  or  six  acres,  and  is  said  to  be  equal 
to  the  base  <i  thfl  largest  of  the  pyramids  of 
Egypt.  The  buildings  round  are  plain  houses. 
I  have  not  observed  any  thing  in  this  day's  rain- 
blc  above  that  rank  iu  architecture,  or  any  pub- 
lic building*  of  note.9  But  although  the  luxury 
of  this  people  does  not  resemble  the  luxury  of 
the  Greeks  and  the  Romans,  yet  they  are  better 
lodged.  I  have  heard  no  cries  in  the  streets,— 
seen  few  beggar*,— no  obstructions  or  Moppagcs 
of  carriages,— each  taking  to  the  left.  \W  found 
in  Piccadilly  a  stage-coach  ready  to  start  for 
Bath,  by  which  I  could  be  carried  sonic  miles  on 
my  way  to  Richmond ;  it  resembled  a  ship  on 
four  wheels  j  a  sort  of  half  cylinder  j  round  be- 


•  1  haTC-ino'  MOT  in  thil  |Mrtof  tbctown  MVCrul  buBJIoga 

*  fillip  «f  MlttCC. 


LONDON STAOC  COACHES. 


Si 


low,  flat  above,  very  long,  and  divided  into  (hi 
distinct  apartment*.  I  ww  introduced  into  the 
cabin  by  an  after-port,  and  locked  in  with  an- 
other paateng*::-  Soon  after  I  had  taken  my 
seat,  the  carriage  rattled  away  full  speed.  Thi* 
was  mud)  better  than  my  morning  conveyance, 
and  I  enjoyed  the  change  j  but  alter  a  few  miles, 
an  apprehension  seized  me  of  bring  carried  be- 
yond the  port  to  which  I  was  bound,  (Kew 
Bridge).  We  reached  it,— 1  knew  it  again, — 
saw  with  tertOf  that  we  pawed  it,  and  that  1  was 
swept  away  wrih  alarming  velocity,  like  Robin- 
>ori  Crusoe  from  his  island.  I  endeavoured  in 
vam  to  call,  or  to  open  the  door.  At  last  the 
carriage  stopped  unexpectedly.  Utile  more  than 
I  f|ii;irter  of  a  mile  beyond  the  bridge  ;  and,  pro- 
ceeding the  re*t  of  the  way  on  foo*,  I  reached 
Richmond  long  after  dark,  but  in  than  for  din- 
ner, which  is  here  an  early  supper, — related  tlic 
adventures  of  the  day,  and  received  tho  letters 
sent  from  London. 

t  January  24. — We  arc  at  last  eitablishrd  in 
I.cnilon,  in  furnished  lodgings,  very  near  iwt 
man  .Square,  a  fashionable  part  of  the  town.  A 
previous  study  of  the  map  has  made  me  sufficient- 
ly acquainted  with  the  town  to  find  my  way  to 
every  part  of  it,  by  means  of  two  principal  ave- 
nues, Piccadilly  and  the  Strand,  Oxford  Street 
and  Holborn,  which  unite  at  St  Paul's,  whence, 


26 


LONDON— STREET3. 


us  from  a  common  centre,  they  separate  again,  to 
form  two  other  great  avenues,  still  cast  and  went, 
Curuhill  and  Bishopsgatc  Street :  they  aro  the 
arteries  of  this  great  IkkJv,  and  all  the  other 
street*  are  the  veins,  branching  out  in  all  direc- 
tions.    It  is  easier  to  acquire  a  practical  know- 
of  the  geography  of  London  tiun  of  Paris, 
lich  has  not  the  same  rallying  points,  except 
the  Seine,  which  divides  Paris  more  equally  iliaa 
tJic  Thames  docs  London  ;  the  other  side  of  the 
Thames  is  only  an  extensive  suburb,  whereas  the 
other  side  of  the  Sain  w  half  Paris.     The  peo- 
ple of  London,   I  rind,  arc  quite  as  disposed  to 
answei   ciili-inply  the  questions  of  strangers  as 
those  of  Paris.    Whenever  I  have  made  enquiries, 
either  in  shops,  or  even  from  porters,  carters,  and 
xnarkct-womeu  IB  the  atrefifs,  I  have  uniformly 
received  a  civil  answer,  and  every  intoimatiiui 
in  their  power.     Raoptfl  do  not  pull  off  their  hats 
-when  thus  addressing  any  body,  as  would  be  in- 
dispensable at  Paris  ;  a  slight  inclination  of  the 
head,  or  motion  of  the  hand,   is  thought  suffi- 
cient.    Foot-passengers  walk  on  with  ease  and 
security  along  tire  smooth  flag  -stones  of  the  sidi 
pavement.     Their  eyes,  mine  at  least,  are  irresis- 
tibly attracted  by  the  allurements  of  the  shops 
particularly  print-shops ;  not  that  they  always 
exhibit   those  specimens  of  the   art   so  justly 
admired  all  over  Kurope,  but  ofteuer  caricatures- 


LONDON SKOPS-* -CARICATURES. 


m 


of  all  sorts.  My  countrymen,  whenever  intro- 
duced in  them,  never  fail  to  be  represented  as 
dintinutivc,starved  being*,  of monkey-mien,  strut- 
ting about  in  huge  hat*,  narrow  coats,  avid  great 
sabres  *  an  overgrown  awkward  Englishman 
crushes  naif  a  dozen  of  these  pygmies  at  one 
squeeze,  '/here  are  no  painters  among  the  flww»— 
at  least  they  are  not  here.  It  must  be  owned, 
however,  that  the  English  do  not  spare  themsel- 
ves ;  their  princes  their  statesmen,  and  church- 
men, ifB  thu*  exhibited  and  luuitf  up  to  ridicule, 
often  with  c/cverncs*  -ukJ  humour,  and  a  coarse 
$ort  of  practical  wi  t*  Som  e  shops  exhibit  imtru- 
went*  of  mathematics,  of  optics,  of  chemistry, 
beautifully  arranged  ;  the  admirable  polish,  and 
learned  simplicity  of  the  instruments,  suggest  the 
idea  of  justness  and  of  ptrfitctMNft, — recalling  to 
your  mind  all  you  know  of  their  uses,  and  inspi- 
ring a  wish  to  know  more.  Jewellers' shops,  glit- 
tering with  co«tly  trinkets,  give  me  another  sort 
of  pleasure, — that  of  feeling  iw  sort  of  desire  for 
any  thing  they  contain.  Finally,  pastry-cook 
shop,  which,  about  the  middle  of  the  day,  and 
of  the  lonif,  interval  between  breakfast  and  dio- 
i>cr,  arc  full  of  decent  persons  of  both  sexes, 
mostly  men,  taking  a  slight  repast  of  tarts,  buns, 
&c  with  a  glas*  of  whey  ;  it  costs  6d.  or  ad-  ster- 
ling. A  young  and  pretty  woman  generally  pre- 
sides  behind  the  counter,  a*  to  the  eofTcc-bouscB 
of  Paris. 


LONDON*— iXHAlilTAXTS— HORSES. 

The  inhabitant*  of  I/mdon,  such  as  they  are 
ween  in  the  streets,  have,  as  will  as  the  out-idcof 
tlu-ir  Fioufcs  a  sort  of  a  dingy,  smoky  look  ;  not 
dirty  absolutely, — for  you  generally  perceive 
clean  linem— but  the  outside  garment*  are  of  a 
dull,  dark  cast,  and  harmonize  with  mud  and 
smoke.  Prepossessed  with  a  high  opinion  of 
English  corpulency,  I  expected  to  see  every- 
where the  original  of  Jrtcquc<  Roaxt~huf.  No 
thing ;  the  human  race  is  here  rather  of 
mean  stature,— less  so,  pcriuip*,  than  the  true. 
Paririan  race;  but  there  is  really  no  great  dif- 
ference; and  i  have  met  more  than  once  with 
Sterne's  little  man,  when,  in  turning  round  to 
help  a  child  icrOU  the  gutter,  he  waw  with  sur. 
i  ling*  Of  fifty,  Where  he  c\[iectcd  to  scc 
one  of  five.  The  iize  of  London  draught*bones 
makes  up  for  that  of  the  men ;  thoM  which  draw 
brewers*  carts  and  coal-waggons  arc  gigantic- 
perfect  elephants!  On  the  other  hand,  I  have 
olKcrved  dwarf  hordes  passing  swiftly  along  the 
streets,  mounted  In  hoys,  who  appeared  employ- 
ed in  earn  ing  letters  or  messages.  No  armed 
watch,  -ire/,  or  frwreckattS8&%  is  ever  met  patro- 
liug  the  streets  or  the  highways ;  no  appearance 
of  police,  and  yet  no  apiarent  want  o\'  jSolicc ; 
nothing  disorderly. 

The  western  part  of  the  town  is  terminated  by 
three  great  contiguous  public  walks,   St  Junes'* 


M 


a 


i 


LOXDOX— THE  FASKS. 


Park,  which  belongs  to  the  palace  of  that  name, 
ii  planted  in  straight  walks,  which  surround  a 
meadow  and  piece  of  water,  and  have  all  the 
monotony  and  duluea*  of  die  old-uuliicincri  ave- 
nues without  theix  magnificence,  the  tree*  being 
low  and  of  a  stunted  growtlu  The  Green  Turk 
is  somowhai  better.  Hjde  Park  quite  different, 
and  three  limes  a*  large  a.**  the  other  two  to- 
gether. It  is  an  meloflureof  above  400  acre*, 
slightly  uneven,  having  here  and  there  group* 
of  old  trees,  some  of  them  of  very  large  size  and 
venerable  appearance,  hot  too  thinly  scattered, 
ami  leaving  great  spaces  entirely  naked.  New 
plantations  are  making,  but  du-v  unite  ill  with 
the  old  trees,  and  ought  not  to  approach  so  near 
them.  Trie  water  of  a  rivulet  dammed  up  has 
beofl  made  to  fill  a  little  valley,  forming  a  piece 
of  water  of  good  shape,  and  tolerably  clear,  call- 
ed die  Serpentine  ICivcr ;  of  whit  fi  .vend  pro- 
jecting points  of  land  and  bay*  disguise  the 
boundaries.  The  beat  trees  of  the  park,  mostly 
eims.grow  near  the  Serpentine  River.  Kensing- 
ton Gardens  axe  connected  with  Hyde  Park ;  car- 
riages arc  not  admitted ;  the  circumference  is 
about  the  same,  that  is  nearly  three  mites.  An 
excess  of  trees  is  as  conspicuous  here  as  the 
want  of  them  in  Hyde  Park.  'Hie  season  is  un- 
favourable, but  die  present  impression  of  Ken- 


80 


LONDON— KtMSlNOroM  OAllUVVS. 


sington  Gardens  i*  that  of  a  formal  sort  of  wiU 
dcrnook* 

Tbn  weather  is  called  here  very  cold  (20"  <>i 
«T*  of  Ok  thermometer  of  Fahrenheit)  -f  the  Scr- 
i.l  Kivcr  is  covered  with  Waiters,  some  of 
ftint-ntti  ones,  Ladic*  crowd  round  to  con- 
template the  human  form  divine, — strength, grace, 
and  manly  beauty.  Time  is  certainly  much  to 
admire  in  tins  rappoct  in  the  cbtt  of  gcmlciik-ii 
in  England,  il  not  only  land-inner,  hut 

stronger  than  the  labouring  class  both  of  town 
and  country*  It  vppctm  to  ma  tlmt  u  was  the 
reverse  in  France,  and  thai  r.eiitlemeji  in  genera! 
were  rather  inferior  in  bodily  faculties  to  coun- 
Uyncn  and  towo  labourer*.  This  difference 
nay  be  ascribed  to  the  practice  of  athletic  amuse- 
ment* being  much  nunc  general  in  England, — 
much  move  a  port  of  education  ;,  and  to  the  cir- 
cum^taocc  oi  thfl  young  una  being  uwrodoead 
later  to  the  society  of  women  in  England  than 
in  France.     That  society,  ifbcfj  pf  the  modest 


•  I  httire  since  ten  tliwc  gardens  at  a  more  propitious  aca- 

•OV.   Tlieir  luiiy  avenue*,  carfwUvcl  wiUi  green,  «re  highly  pic- 

que,  a*  well  <u  magnificent,  from  (he  lizc  nnd  beiuiv  of 

i  ri,  nntwitliAinmling  the  regularity  of  iluir  .»nler.     I 

know  ol  no  public  garden*  at  1 'urn,  or  elicwbcrc,  coaipuroble 

in    beauty    I  [lyttiti  <  - ,ir tU  UK.  —  I  taw   heard   Uiv  throe 

park*  and  gardem  togcihcr,  called  iht  bug*  of  London. 


■ 


LOXDOX — WHSnilVSTfJt  ABBEY — ST  XAUES'.   SI 


sort,  induces  sedentary  habit;, — and  when  other- 
wise, has  -till  worse  consequences.  A  taste  for 
the  country  might  also  serve  to  account  for 
i  ii  1 1  ;i  taste  at  least  fur  thoae  aiiiiMcmriiLs  which 
are  only  Found  in  the  country, — sporting,  foiling, 
and  hones.  The  fashionable  part  of  the  town  is 
rted  one  half  of  die  year,  and  this  half  not 
at  all  the  plcaaantest  one ;  but  that  of  the  short- 
cut days,  the  darkest  sky,  ami  the  coklcst  wea- 
ther,— that  is  to  wy,  all  winter,  till  March; 
spending  all  the  spring,  which  b  said  to  be  very 
beautiful  in  Kughuul,  but  is  not  the  *MtOfi  of 
ficJ<J-?|Kirt\  amidst  the  dust  ami  smoke,  tit  LOn> 
don.  Such  is  the  kind  of  attraction  which  m  hero 
found  in  lite  country. 

Westminster  Abucy  is  seen  to  advantage  from 
the  parka,  ita  Gothic  towers  rising  above  the 
summit  of  the  trcea.     The  Palace  of  8t  James, 
situated  at  the  entrance  of  the  park   of  that 
name,  is  a  paltry-looking  I  hi  tiding,  of  the  mean- 
est possible  appearance,  and  half-consumed  by 
fire  ;  it  i*  impossible  to  conceive  any  tiling  worse 
of  the  palace  kind.     We  arc  apt  to  lend  form 
and   colour  to  thou:  object*  of  which   we  have 
fays  heard,  but  have  never  seen  i  and  I  own 
1   had  built  in  my  mind  a  very  different  sort  of 
palace  for  the  court  of  St  James's,— so  rich  and 
so  proud-     This  royal  residence  was  erected  by 
Henry  VIII. 


L0NIX>.V — WFXX'ZSZA. 


February  17- — Wc  have  been  a  whole  month  in 
London,  and  for  the  Jast  three  weeks  I  have  »et 
down  nothing  in  this  Journal,  it  is  not,  as  might 
be  supposed,  from  having  been  too  much  taken 
up  or  loo  little,  A  French  traveller  once  rc- 
marked  sagaciously,  that  there  is  a  malady  pecu- 
liar to  the  climate  of  England*  called  the  ni/cA- 
cM ;  this  malady,  under  the  modern  title  of  in- 
BpeH  ,  hftlfi  Btlj  afflicted  all  London,  and  vre 
i.  by  it,  A  friend  of  F.,  who 
had  conic  to  London  on  purpose  to  receive  us, 
has  been  obliged  to  fly  precipitately  ;  others 
dare  not  conic.  The  letters  vre  brought  have 
not  procured  us  many  useful  or  agreeable  ac- 

lifttaaecsj — some  of  them  have  not  been  noti- 
ced i  and  although  wc  have  to  acknowledge  the 
attentions  oi  sonic  persons,  their  number  in  very 
small,  and  we  feel  alone  in  the  crowd.  London 
is  a  giant, — strangers  can  only  reach  hi*  feet. 
Shut  up  in  our  apartments,  welt  warmed  and 
well  lighted,  and  where  wc  seem  to  want  nothing 
bot  a  little  of  that  immense  society  in  the  midst  <« 
which  wc  arc  suspended,  but  not  mixer!,  we 
ftdl  leisure  to  observe  its  outward  asprrf. 
and  general  UKrVCOICBtl,  and  listen  to  the  roar  of 
its  waves,  breaking  around  us  in  measured  time, 
like  the  tides  of  the  ocean. 

•'  'TU  pleasant  through  the  loop-hole*  of  retreat 
Tn  [n-vp  m  »urh  a  world— to  wc  the  Btir 


.      " 


LOKDON — MORNING MILK THE  aU.iKDS.     33 

Of  Ihr  grr»t  B*lwi,  ami  aoi  feel  the  crowd  i 
To  bear  ihc  roar  ihc  fends  through  all  her  g 
At  a  niV  dittaoct .• 

In  tin*  morning  all  b  calm, — not  n  mouse  stir- 
ring More  t<n  o'clock  ;    litv  shn|i:;  tbeS)  Urgin  to 

open.  Milk-women*  with  their  pails  |>erfectiy 
neat,  suspended  at  the  two  extremities  of  a  yoke* 
carefully  shaped  to  fit  the  shouUlcrt,  and  sur- 
rounded with  small  tin  measures  of  cream,  nog 
at  every  door,  with  reiterated  pulls  to  hasten 
the  maid-servants  who  come  half  asleep  eo  re- 
ceive a  meawire  as  big  as  an  egg,  being  the  al- 
lowance of*  family ;  for  it  i*  uccc-tsary  to  explain, 
tJiat  milk  i  '!  here  either  food  <tr  drink,  but  ft 
tincture, — an  elixir  exhibited  in  drupa,  live  oa 
at  moat,  in  a  cup  of  tea,  morning  and  evening. 
It  would  be  difficult  to  say  what  uue  ox  what 
quality  these  drop*  may  impart;  but  so  it  is; 
;i.il  nobody  think*  or'  jpj  ■•  •  ti  -   propriety 

of  the  custom.  Not  a  single  carriage, — not  a 
cart  arc  seen  pawing.  The  first  considerable 
is  the  drum  and  military  music  of  the  Guard*, 
marching  from  their  barrack*  to  Hyde  Park, 
having  at  their  head  three  or  (our  negro  giants, 
Mnfc ing high,  gracefully, ami  *ti ong,  t .  ie  n ■-.. m 
ing  cymbal.  About  three  or  font  o'clock  the  fa- 
shionable world  gives  some  signs  of  life;  issuing 
forth  to  pay  visits  or  rather  leave  earth  at  the 
doors  of  friends  never  seen  but  in  the  crowd  of 

VOI-,  I.  c 


I 


54         LONDOK — L.XHFB — FASHION At!I,V   I  Iff:. 

Assemblies  ;  to  go  to  shops,  sec  sights,  or  lounge 
in  Bond  Street, — an  ugly  inconvenient  street, 
the  attractions  of  which  it  h  difficult  to  under- 
stand. At  five  or  six  they  return  home  to  dress 
ti-i  dinner.  The  fttrteta  arc  then  lighted  from 
0\\e  end  to  the  other,  or  rather  edged  on 
ither  «.tdc  with  two  long  line*  of  little  brightiah 
dots,  indicative  of  light,  but  yielding  in  fact  very 
Little  ;— these  are  the  lumps.  They  arc  not  sus- 
pended In  the  middle  of  the  streets  as  at  Paris, 
ii  it  fixdri  on  iron*  fifght  or  nine  feet  high,  ranged 
along  the  houses-  The  want  of  reflectors  is  pro- 
bably the  cause  of  their  giving  so  little  light 
From  six  to  eight  the  noise  of  wheels  increases ; 
it  is  the  dinner  hour.  A  multitude  of  carriages, 
with  two  eyes  of  flame  staring  in  the  dark  before 
each  of  them,  shake  the  pavement  and  the  very 
houses,  following  and  crossing  each  other  at  full 
speed.  Stopping  suddenly,  a  footman  jump* 
down,  runs  to  the  door,  and  liils  the  heavy  knock- 
er— giver.  :i  great  knock — then  several  smaller 
ones  in  quick  succession — then  with  all  his 
might — flourishing  a?  on  a  drum,  with  an  art, 
and  an  air,  and  a  delicacy  of  touch,  which  de- 
the  quality,  the  rank,  and  the  fortune  of  his 

For  two  hours,  or  nearly,  there  is  a  pause  j  at 

n  a  rcdotiblemnt  conies  on.     This  is  the  great 

:risis  of  dress,  of  noise,  and  of  rapidity — a  uni- 


LOXDOK — BOLTS. 


» 


vcrsal  hubbub ;  a  sort  of  uniform  grinding  and 
ihakui£>  like  that  experienced  id  a  great  mill 
with  fifty  pair  of  stones ;  and,  if  I  was  not  afraid 
of  appearing  to  exaggerate,  1  should  say  that  h 
came  upon  die  oar  like  tl»c  fall  of  Niagara,  heard 
at  two  mile*  distance  I  Thi*  crisis  continues  un- 
diminished till  twelve  or  0:1c  o'clock  ;  then  le* 
and  less  during  the  rest  of  the  ni^ht, — till,  at  the 
approach  of  day,  a  tingle  carriage  i*  heard  now 
and  then  at  a  great  distant.  . 

Great  assemblies  atc  called  routs  or  parties  > 
but  the  people  who  give  them,  in  their  invita- 
tions only  say,  that  they  will  be  at  Iwntt  such  a 
day,  and  this  some  weeks  beforehand.  The 
home   iii    which    this  takes   place   i  i-ntly 

stripped  from  top  to  bottom  ;  beds,  drawers,  ami 
all  but  ornaments!  furniture  is  carried  out  of 
sight!  to  make  room  for  a  crowd  of  wcll-drc*$cd 
people,  received  at  the  door  of  the  p 
apartment  by  the  rniitrc**  of  the  hou«c  standing, 
who  smiles  at  every  new  comer  with  a  look  of 
acquaintance.  Nobody  sin  -,  there  is  no  conver- 
sation,  no  cards  no  nimir  ;  nnly  elbowing,  turn- 
insxt  and  wiodftlg  from  room  tii  room  ;  then,  at 
the  end  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  escaping  to  the 
hall-door  to  wait  for  the  carriage,  spending  more 
thoe  upon  the  threshold  among  footmen  than 
you  had  done  above  stairs  with  -their  masters. 
From  this  rout  yon  drive  to  another,  where,  after 


96 


LOVDOX — ROUTS THE  CITY. 


waiting  your  turn  to  arrive  at  tin?  door,  per. 

lull'  an  hour,  the  street  being  full  of  car- 
riages, y  '.  begin  the  same  round,  and  end 
it  :n  the  faint;  manner.  The  public  knows  there 
is  a  party  in  a  bouse  by  two  signs;  first,  an  im- 

c  ciovd  of  carriages  before  the  hou*c, — 
then  every  curtain,  and  every  shutter  of  every 
window  wide  opes,    h  rwing  apartments  all  in  a 

of  light,  with  heads  innumerable,  black  and 
while  (powdeftd  or  not),  in  continual  motion. 
Bill  cujtym  i*  10  general,  that  having,  a  few 
days  agov  five  or  nix  person*  in  tin-  evening  with 
us,  wc  observed  our  servant  had  left  the  windows 
thus  expo-ad,  thinking,  no  doubt,  that  this  was 
a  rout  after  our  fashion. 

Such  may  be,  it  WiO  be  said,  the  life  of  the 
.  the  well-born,  and  the  idle,  but  it  cannot 
lie  that  of  many  of  the  people  ;  of  the  commer- 
cial part,  for  Instance,  of  this  emporium  of  the 
trade  of  the  univcr*c.  The  trade  of  London  is 
carried  tin  in  the  tifcftt  part  uf  the  town,  called, 
par  t  dt  .  tit*  Citg.  The  west  is  inhabited 
by  people  of  fashion,  or  those  who  wish  to  ap- 
pear such ;  and  the  line  of  demarcation,  north 
and  south*  rum*  through  Nolio  Square-  Kvcry 
minute  of  longitude  east  is  equal  to  as  many  de- 
gree- utility  minus,  or  towards  west,  plus. 
This  meridian  line  north  and  south,  like  that  in- 
dicated by  the  compass,  incline?*  west  toward- 


'ON OKSTJUTV T1IK  CITV. 


37 


the  north,  and  east  towards  the  smith,  two  or 
three  points  in  «uch  a  manner,  as  to  place  ;i 
tain  part  or  Westminster  on  the  imIc  of  fashion; 
the  Parliament  House,  Downing  Street,  and  the 
Treasury,  arc  ncceKtarily  genteeL  To  have  a 
right  to  emigrate  from  east  to  west,  it  lareq  ki 
to  have  at  least  L.300U  sterling  a-year ;  should 
iu  have  less,  or  at  least  spend  less  yoa  might 
find  yourself  blighted  ;  and  1*6000  a-ycar  would 
be  nfcr.  Many,  itulecd,  have  *  much  narrower 
income,  who  were  born  there;  but  city  emi- 
grants have  not  the  MiM  privilege*.    The  I 

ite  puplr  of  fashion  affect  poverty,  even,  to 
Itttsnguish  themselves  from  the  rich  intruder*. 
[t  is  citizen-like  to  be  at  ease  about  money,  and 
to  pay  readily  on  demand. 

I  have  not  had  the  same  opportunities  of  ob- 
aion  in  the  city.     Having  been  there,  how- 
1 1 1 1 ,  oilen,  early  in  the  morning,  I  found  the  ap- 
pearance of  every  thing  very  different    Instead 
of  the  unr.i'i  .mil  profound  repose  of 

tlie  we-st,  us  late  an  the  middle  of  the  day,  =11  is 
motion  and  activity  in  the  city,  as  early  as  ten 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  crowd,  the  car- 
riages, and  the  mud  increase  rapidly  as  you  ad- 
vancc  from  west  to  east,  during  the  Ion-roan; 
and  an  hour  of  steady  walking  will  take  you  from 
one  extreme  to  the  other,  that  is,  from  Portman 
Square  to  Cornhill.    The  carriages  yo\i  meet  in 


q 


38         tO.NDOX HACKS!  ■>-  UUHKS DOCKS. 

the  city  arc  generally  hkdtney-cdodia*  wli 
on  rainy  (fays,  form  two  uninterrupted  files  mo- 
ving opposite  ways  ;  few  cart*  or  waggttns  for  the 
transportation  of  goods ;  all  this  commerce  with 
{be  universe  i*  carried  on  by  abstraction.    Yon 
never  see  the  productions  which  the  two  Indie*, 
Africa,  and  America,  are  pouring incessantly  in- 
to the  Thames,  and  which  return  to  the  four  quar- 
ters of  the  world,  modified  and  enriched  by  the 
labour  and  skill  of  manufacturer*.   I  am  told  that 
all  tbis  commercial  substance  b  deposited  to  cer- 
tain warehouses,  which  surround  artifiersl  ba 
or  docks,  large  enough  to  receive  all  at  once,  and 
each  ofthetn,  whole  fleets  of  merchantmen.  The 
East  Indies  have  their  dock;  the  West  Indies 
theirs, — the  fisheries  theirs, — London  has  one  for 
its  own  use; — foreign  vessels  alone  occupy  the 
r,  and  their  cargi        are  received  in  private 
warehouse-.  All  this  is  below  London,  and  forms 
a  sort  of  a  third  fown,  east  of  east.    What  are  we 
to  think  of  tliir.li.iilc,  ol  which  a  whole imnieuae 
city  could  not  contain  the  stock,  and  is  merely 
its  counting-house  P  The  mind  forgets  that  the 
immediate  object  is  sugar  and  cofFee,  tobacco 
and  cotton,  and  ilv&auriMcraJames  is  the  main- 
spring, and  sees  only  a  social   engine,   which  ri- 
v:i1n  in  utility,  in  Valtaesa  of  operation,  as  well 
as  wisdom  of  details,  the  phenomena  of  nature 
herself! 


LOSDOX THE  KOVaL  SOCIETY. 


Among  the  few  who  have  taken  any  trouble 
to  forward  our  news  of  pleasure  and  instruction, 
1  wish  F  could  jv;  tribute  of  my  gntitudc 

tu  Sir  (    i.wle*  B- }  who  las  taken  p 

portunily  of  obliging  us ;  but  I  have  deUsrmi- 
Q  name  none  but  person*  in  public  stations  > 

-Mid  .:llhi'i:'::i  this    i.  wilution  D30]    <:■.>•  t  in  B  PHUT 

thing  where  I  should  lave  to  praise,  vet  it  must 
be  adhered  to. 

Sir  Joseph  Bunks  U  well  known  in  the  foamed 
world,  by  his  zeal  lor  the  sciences,  which  mode 
him  in  his youth  accompany  Captain  Cook  round 
the  world,  ar.d  it  unrig  the  course  of  a  long  life 
devote  ail  hia  MotO  and  mi  ample  fortune  to  their 
advancement,    li  es  such  persons  a*  have 

been  introduced  to  turn,  on  Thursday  morning* 
and  Sunday  evening!.  Ilia  friends  arc  always  ad- 
mitted in  the  morning  to  hb  library,  where  news- 
papers, and  literary  journals,  English  ami  foreign, 
ore  found.  These  meeting*  axe  perfectly  free  from 
grvef  or  ceremony  of  any  sort.  This  is,  1  presume, 
the  only  establishment  of  the  kind  in  England. 
Sir  Joseph  is  the  patriarch  of  literature,  or  more 
particularly  of  the  sciences.  He  presides  at  the 
Royal  Society,  which  meets  even  Thursday  t 
int?  in  Somerset  House,  nominal K  fti  eight 
o'clock!  often  half  an  hour  or  three  quarters  of  an 
hour  later,  and  separates  precisely  at  nine.  If 
T  were  to  judge  by  the  two  sitting*  at  which  I 


«0 


LONDON* — THE   ROYAL   SOC1KTT. 


had  die  honour  of  being  admitted,  this  very  short 
apace  of  time  h  sufficient.  The  secretary  (Mr 
Davy)  began  by  reporting.  •  He  had  little  to 
aav.  Rank  am!  wraith  arc,  T  arn  told,  tin;  only 
title  of  a  great  number  of  the  members  of  die  so- 
ciety to  the  academical  scat,  and  from  such  a 
tree  but  little  fruit  can  be  expected.    The  upper 

of  the  room  is  decorated  with  a  full-length 
portrait  of  Xexton,  whom  the  socid  .  I .  proud  Of 
having  had  for  its  first  president-  Hi-  signature 
was  shewn  to  me  in  the  register  of  members.  1 
fell  that  an  impulse  of  profound  respect  at  the 
sight  nfich:ul  made  me  how  uiicnriNrmusry.    'Ilic 

Ihih  do  not  wj  A".  .1  /»«,  but&V  Isaac  Newton. 
I  cannot  well  express  how  much  this  MotisUw 
Ic  Cittxwlicr  Newton  shocks  the  car  of  a  Foreigner. 
The  Transaction*  of  the  Society  have  reached 
the  105th  volume,  and  contain  much  valuable 
matter — much  more,  indeed,  than  seems  consist- 
ent with  the  short  time  allowed  to  its  proceed- 
ings;  and  as  the  Society  publishes  only  such 
communications  as:  are  judged  worthy  of  the  pub. 
lie,  I  conclude  that  few  communications  ore  of- 
fered that  arc  otherwise.  A  certain  native  pride 
and  good  sense  prevent*  many  hasty  communica- 
tions being  offered.     There  is  in  other  countries 

• 

•  Thin  hu  been  pointed  oot  u  n  error  1  The  senior  accrc- 
Ury,  tbtn  Dr  WoUftrtOo,  r««d  tftf  minute*,  ami  ibe  junior  k- 
etcxiay,  Mr  Davy,  the  new  roautr. 


\^ 


LONDON THE  KOVAL  JNSriTUli  4i 

lest  pride  and  more  vanity.  Hits  Society  luid 
its  origin  in  the  times  of  revolution  and  civil  wars 
of  the  seventeenth  century.  A  similar  state  of 
things  is  said  to  have  given  a  fresh  impulse  to 
am  and  sciences  in  France.  As  hair*stornv 
inulate  vegetation,  and  a  new  spring  generally 
follows  its  ravage**  thus  political  tempests  appear 
to  awaken  the  latent  powers  of  the  wind,  add 
bring  forth  talents ;  but  it  may  well  be  quc> 
e<l  wliuiUer  tlu'v  m  equally  favourable  to  the 
growth  of  virtues. 

The  Royal  Institution  i$  a  very  recent  establish- 
flflBt— about  ten  years  standing.  Its  professed 
object  was  tlic  application  of  science  to  the  use- 
ful arts.  Count  Kuruiortl  being  one  of  the  chief 
founders  of  the  institution,  the  practice  and  ap- 
plication of  his  economical  invmttom  could  not 
fail  to  obtain  a  due  degree  of  attention.  Tl 
vii  a  workshop  for  the  construction  of  that  phi- 
losopbcr's  saucepans  and  roasters,  and  a  kitchen 
on  hi*  plan  ;  culinary  committees  were  app< 
ed  to  pronounce  on  the  merits  of  e^perum 
puddings ;  but  these  novelties  are  now  out  of  fa- 
shion, and  have  not  operated  tlut  economical  re- 
volution which  was  expected.  Whether  from 
prejudice  on  the  part  of  the  executive  body  of 
cooks  or  jealousy  on  the  part  of  housewives,  who, 
in  all  countries,  do  not  like  to  see  the  men  usurp 
their  government,  the  old-fashioned  spit  anil  ket- 
tle have  kept  their  ground,  and  thcculino-plnlo- 


IjOSDOS Illi.  ICOVAL  LHSriTL'TION. 


HOphicftl  apparatus  micois  nearly  forgotten.  The 
leetnm  on  thescieucesare  well  attended  |  they 
are  Riven  in  a  large  amphitheatre,  lighted  by  a 
iky  light,  and  form,  with  the  library  and  re* 
rooms  all  that  remains  of  the  original  plan  ;  for 
the  place  of  deposit  for  machines  is,  I  believe, 

Ljr.  Private  interest,  whelhc:-  dw  object  i* 
emolument  or  glory,  will  always  make  :t  secret  of 
valuable  inventions  until  the  exclusive  property 
is  secured  to  the  inventor  by  a  patent, — when 
the  deposit  of  the  models  at  the  Royal  Institu- 
tion would  become  superfluous, — The  library  u 
excellent,  and  tin-  librarian  his  jual  published  a 
catalogue,  which  is  not  only  useful  to  those  who 
frequent  it,  but  might  serve  as  a  model  for  the 
formation  of  a  library  in  the  ancient  and  modern 

■■age*.     I  i   a  division  for  books  of  re- 

ference, and  those  on  gener.il  reading;  the  best 
EnglMi  rind  foreign  journals  ;  good  lire*  in  each 
room,  tobies,  ink,  paper,  &c. 

The  world  owes  to  this  institution  the  illustrious 
chemist  Mr  Davy,  and  that  series  of  mighty  dis- 
coveries, which  has,  in  the  short  space  of  a  tew 

-  done  the  work  of  an  n^ir  in  the  advancc- 
U  of  his  science.  But  for  the  means  placed 
Mr  Davy's  hands,  and  particularly  a  power- 
ful Voltaic  apparatus  of  two  thousand  plates,  he 
probably  never  would  have  decomposed  the  ele- 
ment 4  of  this  metallic  globe.  It  may  not  be  im- 
proper to  state,  that  Mr  Davy  was  very  young, 


LONDON' THE  ROTAL  INSTTTL'TIOX.  43 

and  quite  unknown  at  the  beginning  of  the  In- 
sfrtutinn.  introduced  by  lh  licddocsand  Count 
Rumfurd  as  a  very  promising  ymmg  mitn,  Jic  was 
engaged  as  professor  of  chemistry  in  tin-  mum  of 
Professor  Garoctt,  and,  notwithstanding  his  pro- 
vincial accent,  and  natural  boshfulncss,  his  merit 
was  soon  estimated.  Several  other  eminent  men 
deliver  lecture?  at  the  Royal   Institution ;  Mr 

I  on  astronomy,  Mr  Allen  on  mechauic*, 
Dr  James  E.  Smith  on  natural  history.  Those 
science*  arc  nut,  however,  m>  fashionable  an  che- 
mistry ;  they  arc  not  susceptible  of  any  brilliant 
exhibitions  ,  (here  is  no  noise,  no  tire,— and  the 
amphitheatre  never  fills,  but  for  Mr  Davy.  'Die 
resources  of  chemistry,  to  rccal  or  keep  up  the 
attention  of  a  mixt  audience,  are  inlinite-  A 
small  bit  of  potassium  thrown  in  a  glass  of  water. 
ur  upon  a  piece  of  ice,  never  fails  to  excite  a 
gentle  murmur  of  applause.  More  than  one  half 
of  the  audience  b  female,  and  it  ii  the  mart  at- 

rv  portion.  I  often  olwerve  these  fair  disci- 
ple* of  science  taking  notes  timidly,  and  as  by 
stealthy  on  small  bits  of  paper  ;  no  man  docs  that, 
— they  know  already  the  things  taught,  or  care 

about  them!  Women  alone  consider  them- 

I-,  be  as  i     Ser  above  nor  below  Mr  Pond  or  Mr 

Davy.     In  fact,  public  lectures  are  o  ul  to 

tboae  who  know  little,  and  aspire  to  liitle.    Kcal 

learning  is  only  acquired  by  solitary  studies ;  but 


f 


44 


LOXDOX CRIU.    COS'. 


a  taste  for  the  arts  and  sciences,  although  super* 
flcial,  is,  at  any  rati-,  rerj  t.Vsirublc  in  all  those 
to  whom  fortune  givi-;  leisure.  The  husband  of* 

ynnu;:  lady,  who  '&  very  assiduousatthr  hvturrs, 

said,  the  other  day,  he  approved  much  of  (hit 
taste  in  the  sex  in  general ;  M  it  kcepi  them  out 
of  harm's  way."  Considering  the  great  Iflttbs 
of  prosecutions  for  erim.  con.  recorded  in  news- 
papers, one  would  think  that  no  prcscrvati 
to  be  neglected. 

There  u  something  ridiculous  enough  in  thi3 
technical  abbreviation  of  crimiml  cnmxrsaiion. 
It  seem*  an  awkward  attempt  to  disguise  or  sof- 
ten an  equivocal  expression, — which  is  already 
in  itself  a  great  softening  of  the  moral  misde- 
meanour it  represents. 

This  criminal  conversation  is  not  pre 
criminally,  but  produces  only  a  civil  suit  fbf  the 
recovery  of  damages,  estimated  in  money.  The 
jury  determine-*  the  amount  of  tlirso  damages, 
by  the  degree  of  union  and  conjugal  happiness 
existing  bctorc  the  criminal  conversation  which 
destroyed  it,  and  by  the  rank  and  famine  of  the 
parties.  Hie  smallest  appearance  of  negligence 
or  connivance  on  the  part  of  the  husband,  de- 
prives him  of  all  remedy  against  the  seducer,  who 
owes  him  nothing,  if  he  only  took  what  was  of 
no  value  to  turn,  and  which  he  guarded  so  ill.  I 
have  heard  of   L. 1 0,000  sterling  awarded  in 


LONDON — CIIIM.  CON. 


M 


foroc  ca?cf,  which  is  certainly  rather  dear  for  a 
conversation  t  The  husband  pocket*  this  money 
without  fliame,  became  he  buy  the  laugh  on  his 
side,  nnd  in  the  world  ridicule  alone  produces 
shame.  A  divorce  is  generally  granted  by  act 
6f  parliament  in  these  cases}  and  marriage  as 
rally  lakes  place  between  the  lovers.  The 
publicity  which  such  prosecutions  necessarily  oc- 

i,  and  nil  the  details  and  proofs  of  the  intri- 
gue, are  highly  indelicate  and  scandalous.  The 
BKNVy,  lor  instance,  of  sen-ants,  of  young 
chambermaid:*,  who  ate  brought  into  op 
to  4ellf  in  the  face  of  ihc  public,  all  they  have 
seen,  heard,  or  guessed  at,  is  another  sort  of  pros- 
titution more  indecent  than  the  lint.  Moral* 
axe  far  from  being  purified  by  thin  process  ;  but. 

ibstantial  infringeme.it  i|  prevented 
sort  of  chastity  resembles  the  probity  of  certain 
persons  who  arc  sufficiently  honest  not  to  be 
hanged. 

Upon  the  whole,  however,  then:  u  meire  coOr 
jugal  fidelity  in  England  than  in  most  oilier  coun- 
tries j  and  these  crim*  cow.  prosecutions  calumni- 
ate the  higher  ranks  of  society,  as  the  celebrated 
book  of  Mr  Colquhoun  calumniates  live  lower. 
The  merits  of  national,  as  well  as  individual 
characters,  are  only  comparative  -9  great  aJlow- 
ances  are  to  be  made,  and  the  best  result  to  be 
expected  is  a  favourable  balance  on  the  side  of 


■■* 


46    i.onook— cam.  cos.— nu  oprosiTios. 

saoraJity.  I  think  married  women  arc  less  ou  a 
footing  of  equality  with  their  husbands  here  than 
in  France.  They  appear  more  dependent.  Un- 
married women,  on  the  contrary,  are  less  shack- 
led bfcrt, — they  go  out  often  alone,  and  enjoy 
more  liberty.  This  liberty  produces  few  abuses 
before  marriage,  and  rather  tends  to  prevent 
them  afterward*.  Thou  who  take  advantage  of 
it  to  do  wrong  before  marriage,  would  have  done 
ao  after;  and  it  is  certainly  safer  to  take  a  wo. 
man  who  ban  wen  the  world,  than  one'  who 
know*  only  the  wall*  of  a  convent,  and  v.Iio  lias 
never  been  trusted  out  of  sight  from  her  birth- 
One  thing  surprise?  me  more  and  more  every 
.  it  is  the  great  number  of  people  In  the  op- 
position ;  that  is,  those  who  disapprove,  notor.ly 
thc  present  measures  of  ministers,  which  have 
not  lieen  of  late  either  very  wise  or  very  success- 
ful, but  the  hum  and  constitution  of  the  govern- 
ment it-vli.  It  is  stigmatised  as  vicious,  corrupt, 
and  in  its  decay,  without  hope  or  remedy  but 
in  a  general  reform,  and  in  fact,  a  resolution. 
Our  acquaintance,  though  not  very  extensive,  i* 
infBdeirtl)  various  toaflittd  :t  ran  sample  of  pub- 
lic opinion.  I  have  had  an  idea  of  making  a  list 
in  three  columns  whig*,  tones,  and  absolute  re- 
former*,— Hid  it  would  not  be  difficult ;  for  then; 
are  s  R ■'•■.  principal  topics,  Mich,  like  cabalistic 
words,  it  is  enough  to  touch  upon,  to  know  at 


LOffDOX — THK  OPTOBITIOS. 


*7 


the  whole  train  of  opinions  of  those  with 
whom  you  speak.  It  appears  to  me  that  the  tot iea, 
or  friends  of  the  administration,  and  of  ail  admi- 
nistrations, are  in  a  small  minority  ;  of  the  two 
parties,  one  doea  not  teen  disposed  to  approve 
of  an)'  administration,  and  neither  of  them  of  tin? 
maent;  and,  supposing  tli  U  |Knrer 

rest  on  public  opinion,  one  might  be  tempted 
to  exclaim  with  B**il  in  the  liarbier  dc  Seville, 
**  Qrti  of  cc  done  que  Con  rrrrorpc, — tout  U  TKOnde 
<v?  du  Jtctret  t">  This  is  a  most  alarming  state  of 
thing*,— a  spark  might  set  the  whole  political 
machine  in  a  blaze ;  and  yet,  looking  around  at 
the  appearance  of  all  tilings,  it  seems  a  pity  that 
so  much  good  should  neccswrily  be  alnndoncd 
in  pursuit  of  better,  ami  by  Uir  means  of  a  revo- 
lution. Every  body  disclaims  a  revolution,  /J  fa 
Prwcoise  i  but  who  «  so  \  \  ituout  as  to 

fancy  a  revolution,  when  once  l*'gnn,  can  be 
guided  and  stopped  at  pleasure  ?  No  rand- 

ing  their  lamentations  and  complaints,  and  the 
nvowed  expectation  of  a  dreadful  crisis,  the  in- 
habitant* of  London  live  just  as  if  they  had  no- 
thing to  fear;  amuse  themselves,  and  attend  to 
their  business  in  perfect  security.  It.  would  seem 
ill  this  clamour  was  only  halnt,  a  sort  of 
plaintive  mania — and  yel  they  appear  bo  much 
in  earnest  that  I  do  not  know  what  to  think 

of  it 

March  5- — It  is  difficult  to  form  an  idea  of  the 


< 


48 


LONDON — ATMOfcMIKIIE — riCTTRES, 


lind  of  winter  flay*  in  Loudon  ;  the  smoke  of  fo*. 
al  coal*  forms  an  atmosphere,  perceivable  for 
many  nailer  like  a  great  round  cloud  attache*!  to 
the  earth.  In  the  town  itself,  when  the  weather  U 

ihwly  and  foggy,  which  is  frequently  the  case 
in  winter,  this  smoke  s  the  general  dingy 

me,  and  terminates  the  length  of  every  street 

ith  a  fixed  grey  mist,  receding  a.*  you  advance. 

tut  who  I  ay*  of  am  happen  to  fall  on  this 

artificial  atmosphi  ttpun  mas*  assumes  im- 

mediately n  pale  orange  tint,  similar  to  the  ef- 
fect of  Claude  Lorraine  glasses* — a  itiild  golden 
hue,  quite  beautiful.  The  air,  in  die  mean  time, 
is  loaded  with  small  flak 06  of  smoke,  in  sublima* 
tior., — a  101 1  of  lover  of  sunt,  .-so  bght  as  to  float 
without .falling.     This  bin.  to  your 

clothes  and  linen,  or  lights  on  your  face.     You 
just  feci  something  on  your  nose,  or  your  cheek, 
—the  finger  is  applied  mechanically,  and  fixes 
into  a  black  patch  ! 

gland  is  rich  in  pictures.  The  whole  Or- 
leans gallery,  and  many  other  collections,  tame 
here  during  the  revolution,  'these  treasures 
have  been  divided  ami  scattered  all  over  the 
kingdom.  We  have  not  yet  seen  :my  thing  of 
them ;  there  baa  not  been  really  sufficient  light 
during  the  short  days.  lite  British  school  of 
painting  lias  not  existed  above  forty  years.  Sir 
Joshua  Uevnoltls  maybe  considered  M  the  found- 


LOXDOK — SIR  J.  AXTXOLDS — PICTURE8. 


4* 


der  of  it,  and  was  the  first  president  of  the  Royal 
Academy.   He  exalted  an  inferior  branch  of  the 
art  above  its  usual  rank, — portrait-painting  be- 
came under  bis  band  historical.     He  seems  as  if 
be  had  surprised  nature  in  action,  ami  a  charac- 
teristic action,  and  had  fixed  it  on  his  canvas  at 
one  stroke,  with  perfect  resemblance,  but  a  re- 
semblance which  moves  and  thinks.     It  is  im- 
pOKsiblc  to  imagine  any  thing  more  perfect  than 
his  children,  with  their  playful,  graceful,  awk- 
wardness, the  arch  simplicity  and  innocence  of 
their  smiJe.     His  colouring,  which  docs  not  ap- 
pear to  t»vi  awgth,  fades  away, 
and  ilixappcar*  rupidly  j  -many  of  his  pictures 
are  now  only  black   ami  white.      lie  is  -aid  to 
have  been  fond  of  trying  experiments  in  colours, 
and  thought  he  had  found  the  secret  of  render- 
ing them  more  lasting.     Sir  Joshua  Reynolds, 
far  from  being  *l  gueux  cummc  un  pdutrtt'*  lived, 
like  Rubens,  in  affluence  ;  receiving  the  best  so- 
ciety of  London, — the  highest,  the  moit  learn* 
ed  and  agreeable ;  and  left  after  Inm  a  fortune 
oi'  L.50,000  sterling,  raised  un  Uie  vanity  of  his 
counuyrnen,  rather  Uiau  Ofl  their  love  for  the 
Tliey  might  have  praised  his  talents, — but 
would  not  have  rewarded  them,  if  be  had  not 
painted  their  portraits.     His  price,  in  the  last 
part  oi'  las  life,  was  SOO  guineas  for  a  full-length. 
His  discourses  at  the  Royal  Academy,  which 

VOU  U  D 


l 


SO      LOSDOX— SIR  i    HB\*0LDV— SCC LPTOEE. 


have  been  published,  da  Kim  as  much  honour  as 
hi*  pictures.  Ttoi*  great  example  could  not  rail 
of  being  followed, — and  all  the  English  artists 
arc  portrait-painters.  It  must  be  acknowledged 
they  excel  in  that  line.  I  hive  visited  some  of 
them.  Mr  Lawrence  and  Mr  Philips  have  a 
bold,  free,  and  vigorous  manner  ;  Mr  Owen  a 
correct  design,  and  good  composition.  There 
are  many  others  of  great  merit.  Mr  Xollekins 
is  a  ncuipior,  (of  portraits  likewise)  :  we  saw  in 
his  workshop  a  fiinmil  group,  so  excellent  as 
to  male  us  regret  dial  his  talents  were  not  al- 
so employed.  It  commemorates  a  woman 
who  died  in  child-bed.  She  it  sitting  on  the 
ground,  her  back  supported  by  a  standing  figure 
oi  a  woman,  who  beads  over  bur,  and  points 
above;  the  dead  child  lies  on  the  lap  oi'  the  dy- 
ing mother,  who  holds  its  hand  in  hers.  Pain  of 
body  and  anguish  of  mind, — the  terrors  of  death 
itself — arc  vanishing  with  life,  leaving  only  a 
kind  of  heavenly  serenity,  the  hunt  expreaeuon 
of  which  seems  also  ready  to  abandon  the  earth* 
ly  form.  All  is  simplicity  in  the  attitude  -t  truth 
and  feeling  in  the  expression.  Wc  saw  there 
also  a  tine  Vera  by  the  vunc  artist ; — the  heads 
of  Fox  and  Pitt  in  marble,—very  like  wc  arc 
toll!  i  neither  of  them  looking  like  great  men  ; 
but  the  countenance  or  Fox  is  at  least  that  of  a 
good-natured  man ;  the  other  looks  harsh  and 


LONDON— THK  ARTS, 


51 


proud.  The  ex-niiiust*  r,  Mr  Cunning,  was  sit- 
ting thtrc  foe  tiis  host*  to  be  placed,  I  suppose, 
by  the  side  of  his  master's. 

The  English  are  accused  of  hiving  neglected 
(he  tine  arts,  and  acknowledge  very  readily  the 
truth  of  the  charge.  One  of  their  artists,  Mr 
Shee,  han  published  a  well-written  pamphlet,— 
hi j  view  of  the  evil,  and  it*  remedy.  He  wants 
if  L  recollect  rightly,  that  government  should 
appropriate  a  certain  sum  for  the  purpose  of 
purchasing  picLure*  annuaih;  jwinied  by  artist*, 
natives  or  not,  residing  in  England,  chosen  by  a 
committee  of  fit  judges.  Government  has  at 
preient,  I  believe,  other  calls  for  its  money.  But 
there  is  a  society  lately  formed  for  the  same  ob- 
ject ;  they  have  provided  some  convenient  rooms 
in  Pal]  Mall,  lighted  by  hky-lighis,  for  tin'  recep- 
tion of  modern  pictures;  the  public  is  admitted 
at  two  shillings  a  head,  and  a  person  is  always  on 
the  spot  to  treat  with  those  wlw  wi*h  to  buy  any 
of  the  pictures.  Tlio<e  purchased  remain  tlicrr 
til]  lite  end  of  the  exhibition,  which  last*  alxiut 
four  months.  The  purchaser  of  any  picture  bnx 
his  entrance  free  the  remainder  of  the  time  A 
very  considerable  revenue,  raised  by  this  means, 
is  applied  to  the  purchase  of  modern  pictures  for 
the  society.  This  institution  will  certainly  create 
a  great  emulation  among  artists ;  ami  those  who 
have  snperior  talents  will  he  enabled  to  quit  the 


i 


52 


VOSDOS — THE  \RTS. 


sordid  portrait,  and  to  be  historians  and  poets 
without  fear  of  starving.  I  must  own,  however, 
that  I  hire  seen  very  few  pictures  there  that 
were  above  mediocrity  ;  bud  design, — ignorance 
of  the  human  form  and  anatomy, — colouring 
poor  and  purpli&h.  Tt>e  liead*,  however,  are 
fine  in  general :  and  these  striking  countenan- 
ces, thus  starting  out  of  the  canvas  put  mc  in 
mind  of  the  man  in  u  Le  Tableau  Parlanl,"  who 
thrusts  his  living  head  through  a  hole  in  a  pic- 
ture. Landscapes  of  merit  are  much  more  com- 
mon than  historical  pictured.  There  is  more 
originality, — more  knowledge  of  nature  in  this 
branch  of  art, — more  beau  L'ial, — more  poetry, 
here  than  in  France. 

The  exquisite  perfection  of  English  engravings 
had  given  me  a  corresponding  idea  of  the  art  of 
painting  ;  but  this  elder  branch  b  much  inferior 
t<i  the  other.  Landscapes,  especially,  are  engra- 
vi  <I  hi  re  with  a  degree  of  finish, — a  softness, — a 
richness  of  colouring,  if  1  might  be  allowed  the 
expression,  which  it  seems  impossible  to  surpass, 
TMfl  art  having  become  a  great  article  of  trade, 
■shea  an  early  reward  to  talent-  ;  bread  first, 
and  fame  afterwards.  The  little  proficiency  made 
in  the  arts,  the  sciences,  and  all  that  requires 
much  study,  great  labour,  and  sacrifices,  by  most 
of  those  who  are  born  to  an  independent  fortune. 


PICTURES — DOMESTIC  SUBJECTS.    53 


>hewg  sufficiently  that  the  first  step  in  the  career 
is  urged  by  hard  bo 

Tkerc  is  i  of  composition,  which  haV 

been  brought  here  to  a  high  decree  of  excel- 
lence,— subjects  taken  in  common  and  modern 
life.  The  personages  arc  not  always  boors,  sail- 
ors, or  soldiers,  in  camps  an>l  taverns,  as  in  the 
Flemish  school ; — or  shepherds  and  shepherdes- 
ses d  la  I'irgilc — but  real  peasant*  or  tradesmen, 
with  their  proper  appendages,  and  placed  in  na- 
tural situations,  inteie&iing  and  characteristic, 
witboill  caricature,  and  often  with  ruuch  drairus- 
iic  effect.  The  British  Institution  baa  several 
pood  picture*  in  this  style,  I  shall  notice  one 
Vhich  pleased  roc  particularly.  You  see  a  room 
occupied  by  a  shoemaker  and  his  family.  He  is 
at  work,  seated  on  a  bench  in  the  front  of  the 
picture  ;  shirt-sleeve*  tucked  up, — squared  el- 
bows— a  shoe  in  one  hand,  on  his  closed  knees,— 
a  heavy  hammer  in  the  other,  hard  at  work ;  his 
100  by  him,  hi*  back  turned,  works  at  the  same 
trade,.  Behind  them,  at  a  table,  the  mother 
shells  beans ;  the  daughter,  seated  at  the  ttsne 
table,  w  binding  shoes.  A  child  on  a  low  chair, 
a  bowl  in  his  hand,  eating  carelessly,  as  if  he 
had  had  enough,  and  playing  with  the  cat  In 
the  middle  of  all  this  the  door  opens;  a  young 
man  in  bis  holiday  drew,  with  a  nosegay  at  his 
luttoo-holc,  hat  off,  and  scratching  his  head,  with 


54      LONDON  —  ftCTUIUS DOMESTIC  SL5JCCT5- 


an  awkward  embarrassed  air,  advance*  a  few 
,  and  is  about  to  tell  lite  object  of  his  visit 
The  father  stops  abort  in  the  middle  of  his  work, 
and  half  raising  his  head*  shews  a  wrinkled  fore 
bead,—- care-worn,— ^i*harpaod  impatient  eye, — 
and,  altogether,  a  countenance  iU-culculatcd  to 
encourage  the  gallant.  The  girl,  without  inter- 
rupting her  work,  but  deeply  blushing,  uneasy, 
and  anxious,  casts  a  side-glance  at  what  is  going 
on.  The  mother  looks  complacently,  and  the 
young  brother  laughs  in  his  sleeve  with  suppress- 
ed archness,  while  the  child  continue*  playing 
with  the  cat,  without  taking  any  concern  in  the 
scene,  which  is  called,  as  may  be  imagined. 
The  Asking  in  Marriage.'  The  drawing  and 
composition  are  perfect ;  the  colouring  rather 
dull,  but  true ;  the  expression  is  nature  itself, 
and  neither  too  high  nor  too  low.  All  the  details 
uf  furniture,  utensils,  and  ornaments,  arc  finish 
ed  with  the  greatest  care,  and  with  the  greatest 
minuteness \  and,  although  perfectly  distinct, 
not  obtrusive,  nor  distracting  live  attention  from 
the  principal  figures.  The  artist  is  a  Mr  Cosse 
of  Dusseldorf,  who  has  been  fifteen  years  in 
London  without  much  reputation,  but  I  should 
think  has  now  secured  one.  Another  artist,  Mr 
WihYic,  has  reached  in  a  few  years  the  highest 
honours  of  this  kind.  I  lave  not  sec  n  any  thing 
oi  his  yet.     He  is  irorti  Scotland,  very  young, 


toxDON— *rcwftw— zxGLisn  dinner.     5s 

ami  in  bad  health,  but  extremely  wdMnfitrml 
and  respectable. 

I  have  noticed  some  other  picture*  of  consider- 
able merit  At  the  British  Institution,  but  descrip- 
tions of  picture*  are  generally  tiresome  and  insuf- 
ficient.    I  have  described  M r  Oua%ff%  merely  to 
give  an  idea  of  that  style  which  appears  to  be, 
compared  to  historical  painting,   what  manutrs 
ate  to  tottery.    I  prefer  memoirs,  ss  giving  the 
moral  or  human  history,  instead  of  the  history  of 
diplomacy  and  wars,  -which  has  no  interest  nor 
variety,  and  contains  only  that  aort  of  informa- 
tion, of  which  one  volume  anorda  as  much  as  an 
hundred.    Tiiere  is  a  false  htvtre  attached  to  rank 
and  povrer,  which  lends  an  imaginary  importance 
to  character*  and  actions  tnsignincuni  in  them* 
selves.    They  arc  not  always  great  men  who  ef. 
feet  great  thing*; — much  is  due  to  the  means 
which  chance  has  pin  ceil  in  tlicir  hands.     With 
the  same  effort  you  may  throw  a  stone  farther 
Chan  a  feather ;  and  it  may  not  perhaps  be  much 
more  difficult  to  manage  an  empire  than  a  shop. 
At  any  rate,  I  prefer  Mr  Cossc-'s  orMrWilkie's 
humble  subjects,  tn  most  of  tbo«c  with  which  his- 
tory or  I'alile  might  have  funmhed  them. 

An  Knglish  dinner  is  very  different  from  a 
French  one ;  less  so,  however,  than  formerly, — 
tl>e  art  of  cookery  being  in  fact  now  half  French. 
England  was  always  under  great  obligations  to 
its  neighbours  in  that  respect  \  and  most  of  the 


£6 


LONDON — EXGLI5H  DWVZX. 


culinary  terms  arc  French,  as  well  as  those  of 
tactics.  It  is  singular,  that  the  same  animal 
wWcfaj  when  living  has  an  English  name,  has  a 
LYeuch  odc  when  slaughtered.  A  sheep  becomes 
mutton;  an  ox,  beef;  and  a  hog,  pork.  2  over- 
heard, the  other  day,  an  old  Frenchman,  who  has 
lived  thirty  years  among  the  English,  tell  one  of 
Ills  diildrcn  who  happened  to  have  dirty  hands, 
to  go  and  waal i  them,  adding,  Ity  way  of  reproof. 
"  Go,  you  are  a  little  port."  Such  misapplica- 
tions of  words  shock  like  discords  in  music,  or  ill- 
asrtoited  colours>  the  more  as  they  enmc  nearer 
without  being  right,  and  are  extremely  ludicrous. 
The  master  and  mistress  of  the  house  sit  at 
each  end  of  the  table, — narrower  and  longer  than 
the  French  table*, — the  DUstrtSd  at  the  up] 
end  ;— and  the  places  near  her  are  the  plao 
honour.  There  arc  commonly  two  courses  ami 
a  dessert-  I  shall  venture  to  give  a  sketch  of  a 
moderate  dinner  for  ten  or  twelve  person*.  Al- 
though contemporary  readers  may  laugh,  I  flat- 
ter myself  it  may  prove  interesting  in  future  ages, 
-for 

"  Thin  nock,  which  nftVr  will  air,  shaJl  he 
An  vverltuting  raunumvut  to  me." 


OjftlA  Saucft 


| ,.:.. 


SpitlBtf- 


Thrift 
BftCM 


VrjcrthMr* 

RmuMlsr 
Boilrd  tietL 

VrjfUfctn. 


LONDON — DINXUtf PLUM-PUODIXC. 


57 


J 


» 


Cm  mn 

Rstofli  til 


Ms*: 


PV«n. 


cwta™ 


_.l 


<!*..- 


NmniL 


•J 


Ayflo. 

JUUsi  afte- 


rs *«. 


ftiU.»l 


IV»n. 


OsWkpl 


The  soup  is  always  a  consonant,  cut,  and 

high -seasoned.  Vegetables,  on  the  i  ary,  are 
exhibited  in  all  the  simplicity  of  na(un%  like  hay 
to  horsci,  only  a  little  boiled  instead  of  dried. 

Dcx  as  I  have  described  t*  now  i 
hap  u  little  antiquated*  Among  people  of  fa- 
shion the  master  and  mista  ally  abandon 
the  ends  of  the  table, — which  indeed  has  often 
no  end,  being  round  ;  there  are  more  made-0 
or  French  ragouts  j  they  are  served  in  succession 
hot  and  hot,  and  vegetables  do  not  appear  quite 
in  naturahbus.  Good  old  E  lilies  have 
frequently  no  soup  at  all,  and  the  dishes  arc  only 
roast  and  boiled. 

•*  fttfan  Iran  roiiU,  tours  m.nift,  U  Vim  hssoto, 
LTo  grtM  fdst  hec  f  que  bcurro  OMOiionne, 
l>t»  pJura-puddingi,  do  iioi  «lr  la  (iar uiiov." 

This  plum-pudding  rated  by  Voltaire,  b 

quite  a  national  dis)t,  and  my  French  readers 


M 


f ON  DON U'INKS. 


will  thank  me  tor  the  receipt  of  it,  which  tin) 
will  6ml  in  a  note.9  The  German  mineral ogi*Ls 
have  given  the  name  ofpudding-ftcin  to  a  ponder- 
ous and  hard  atone, composed  of  fragments  bound 
together  by  a  common  cement.  1  do  not  know 
whether  the  pudding  is  derived  from  the  stone, 
01  the  atone  from  the  pudding,  and  either  might 
be  considered  as  a  reflexion ;  but  to  my  taste 
pluro-pudding  is  excellent. 

The  wine  generally  drank  is  Port,  high  in 
colour,  mugh,and strong, — Madeira, and  Sherry  ; 
Bourdeaux  wine,  usually  called  here  CUret,  Bur- 
gundy, Champagne,  and  other  French  nine?,  are 
luxuries.  Few  of  these  wines  come  to  England 
without  some  heightening  of  brandy.  People 
generally  taste  of  fewer  dishes  here  than  at  Pans 

, , , 

•  Flum-pudding  «  a  mm  of  rwrr,  formed  of  equal  quanti- 
tifao/csuuHof  brtad  or  of  flour,  oi  linn  latliuui  the  Lidaeya  of 
bee1',  of  dried  rai-im  properly  utmiril,  and  of  cvrinttit,  a  joiI  ol 
dried  grnpc  which  comes  from  the  Mediterranean.  Egg*  and  * 
iroatl  quantity  of  milk,  arc  aUo  addvd ;  mid  to  tuipfUta  the  whole, 
a  litlle  citron,  tpiccs  ond  bnuidy.  All  lhi»,  weH  inixrd,  Is  tied 
in  a  piece  of  linen  cloth,  and  boiled  for  live  or  tix  hours  in  a 
pot  full  of  water,  but  impended  ro  m  not  to  touch  the  bot- 
tom, which  might  burn  it.  The  lonjftr  it  u  boiled  the  better; 
and  tht»  preciou*  faculty  of  not  lyifefinp;  nny  thing  from  wail- 
ing, hi*  nude  tl  be  named  emphatically  Hunter's  Pi/fitting*— 
ftuttaj  oV  Otaucur.  The  cloth  ii  token  from  it  before  icrflng. 
The  pudding  fonm  a  large  hull,  which  u  cut  into  slice*,  upon 
vrfalcfc  each  pours  a  sauce  composed  of  butter,  sugar,  and  wine. 


■ 


LONDON' CUSTOMS    AT  TABLE. 


£9 


each  dining  generally  on  one  or  two.  You  are 
Dot  pressed  to  eat  or  drink.  The  ordinary  bevtv 
rage  during  the  dinner  it  aoialLbeer,  porter  rare- 
ly, sod  sparkling  ale,  which  is  served  in  high 
shaped  glasses  like  Champagne  glass**;  water, 
acidulated  by  the  carbonic  gas,  infrequently  used : 
few  drink  wine  and  water  mixed.  The  crystal 
vessels,  called  decanters,  in  which  wine  is  brought 
on  table,  are  remarkably  beautiful.  Formerly 
it  was  the  invariable  custosn  to  drink  every  body's 
health  round  the  table  ;  and  although  less  gene* 
rai  now,  it  is  by  no  means  entirely  abolished.  It 
waff  done  in  this  way  :  One  of  the  guests  thai. 
Icnged  another,  male  or  female ;  this  being  ac- 
cepted by  a  slight  inclination  of  tho  head,  they 
filled  respectively,  each  watching  the  motion*  of 
his  adversary,  then  raised  their  glasses*  bowing 
to  each  other,  and  in  this  attitude,  looking  round 
the  table,  they  had  to  name  every  one  of  the 
company  successive]}'.  This  ceremony  finished, 
the  two  champions  eyed  each  other  gravely,  and 
carrying  their  glasses  to  their  lips  quailed  their 
wine  MimilLtneously.  As  one  cliallengi*  did  not 
wait  for  another,  and  each  guest  matched  himself 
without  minding  his  neighbours,  the  consequence 
was,  circular  glances,  calls  of  names,  and  mu- 
tual bows,  forming  a  running-flre  round  the  table, 
crossing  in  every  direction.  It  was  then  tfo 
variable  custom  to  introduce  guests  to  each 
other  by  name,  and  it  was  quite  necessary  to  re- 

!  t 


LOKDOK-—  CUSTOMS  AT  TABLE. 

collect  these  names  >n  order  to  drink  tlicir  health* 
at  table.  This  custom  of  introducing  is  losing 
ground  every  day ;  and  in  fact  the  Iieight  of  fa- 
shion is  to  banish  every  thing  like  gene  and  cere- 
mony. Thu  U  certainly  very  well  \  but  some 
people  go  a  little  farther  \  and.  under  pretence 
of  case,  every  appearance  of  mutual  good-will  is 
excluded.  Voltaire  has  said  somewhere,  "  qui 
n*c*t  que  juste  at  dur."  I  would  add,  qui  n'ctf 
que  franc  est  brutal.  True  politeness,  1  presume, 
t$  merely  benevolence  in  small  things,  which  costs 
so  little,  and  requires  so  few  sacrifices,  that  it  is 
not  worth  while  to  dispense  with  it :  Wlien  polite- 
ness promises  no  more,  it  is  consistent  with  per- 
fect sincerity.  The  manners  of  those  who  lave 
that  sort  of  politeness  resemble  each  other  in  all 
countries  while  the  arbitrary  politeness  of  fashion 
is  more  local.  Fashionable  people  in  England  arc 
very  apt  to  l>e  insolent,— in  France  probably  im- 
pertinent. 

Soon  after  dinner  the  ladies  retire,  the  mistress 
of  the  house  rising  first,  while  the  men  remain 
standing.  Left  alone,  they  resume  their  seats, 
evidently  more  at  case,  and  thcconversalion  takes 
a  different  turn, — less  reserved,— and  cither  gra- 
▼tr,  or  more  licentious  : 


lx<  <Uo*t  felt,  on  «lig<Jir,  on  ru'wone. 
On  cootCi  on  rit,  en  ra.Jit  du  ufovlioin. 

1'olities  are  a  subject  of  such  general  interest 


LONDOK — POLITICS. 


61 


in  England,  both  for  men  and  women,  that  it  en- 
grosses the  conversation  before,  a*  much  as  alter 
the  retreat  of  the  ladies  ;  the  latter,  indeed,  arc 
KtiM  mote  violent  .tnd  extftvagaot  than  the  men, 
whenever  lbe>  meddle  at  all  with  politic*,  and  the 
men  out  of  Parliament,  I  think,  more  than  those 
in  rarfiament.  Women,  however,  do  not  apeak 
much  in  numerous  and  mixed  company.  The 
political  topic*  most  usually  agitated  relate  to  the 
measures  of  administration  \  and  the  minuter* 
arc  infallibly  blamed  or  praised  for  the  same  tilings 
and  for  every  thing,  as  the  person  who  speaks 
happens  to  belong  to  one  or  the  other  party. 
This  ministerial  controversy,  however,  is  carried 
on  with  sufficient  good-humour  ;  but  there  is  an- 
.  branch  of  politic*  which  t*  hardly  ever  in- 
troduced without  producing  more  heat  and  ear- 
neatness  of  debate, — that  is,  parliamentary  re. 
form  ;  a  nice  am!  intricate  n -,  which  few 

of  the  disputants  understand,  and  they  are  the 
more  positive  and  violent  on  that  very  account. 
As  to  ministers,  it  is  quite  another  thing;  the 
disputants  on  this  point  know  exactly  how  the 
matter  stands;  tifcose  who  support  them  arc  in 
general  supposed  to  be  in  duty  bound  to  do  ao, — 
and  there  is  no  disputing  on  a  point  of  duty. 

The  mini*ter  Walpole,  who  i*  tluftight  to  have 
understood  the  mar  ion  of  his  art  better 

than  any  one,  and  to  liave  known  how  to  manage 
mankind,  used  to  say,  that  he  was  sure  to  keep 


N 


LONDUK — CMhlOMi  AT   »BL£. 


hi*  guesU  al  table  iu  good-humour,  !>y  leading 
the  conversation  to  eating  and  women  ; — they 
were  ail  of  one  mind  on  these  subjects. — The 
recipe  baa  lost  nothing  of  iU  efficacy,  and  the 
matter  i$  at  this  day  diseuased  con  more.  Old 
men  and  young  ail  join  in  it ;  und  make  then* 
selvcj  amends,  over  the  bottle,  for  Ihe  restraint 
necessary  before  women. 
There  are  tome  customs  here  not  quite  con* 
:it  with  that  scrupulous  delicacy  on  which 
the  English  pique  fh^msohaja,  Towards  the  end 
of  dinner,  and  before  the  ladies  retire,  lx>urls  of 
coloured  glass  full  of  water  arc  placed  before 
each  person.  All  (women  as  well  as  men)  stoop 
over  it,  sucking  up  some  of  the  water,  and  re*, 
tumiug  it,  perhaps  more  than  once,  and,  with  a 
spitting  and  washing  sort  of  noise,  quite  charm* 
ing3 — the  operation  frequently  assisted  by  a  fin- 
ger elegantly  UirusL  into  the  mouth  !  This  done, 
and  the  hands  dipped  also,  the  napkin*,  am! 
sometime*  the  tablc-cluU*,  are  uaed  to  wipe  band 
and  mouth.  Thi-s  however,  is  nothing  to  what 
I  am  going  to  relate.  Drinking  much  and  long 
leads  to  unavoidable  consequences.  Will  it  be 
credited,  that,  in  a  corner  of  the  very  dining- 
room,  there  is  a  certain  convenient  piece  of  for. 
uiturc,  to  be  used  by  any  body  who  wants  it. 
The  operation  is  performed  very  deliberately 
and  uiMlisguisedly,  a*  a  matter  of  course,  and 
occasions  no  interruption  of  the  conversation-  I 


.  tONDOX— CUSTOMS  AT  TA3LE. 


SI 


one*  took  the  liberty  to  a-sk  why  this  convenient 
article  was  not  placed  out  of  the  room,  in  nome 
adjoining  closet ;  and  was  answered,  that*  in  for- 
mer  times,  wlwn  good  fellowship  was  more  strict* 
ly  enforced  titan  in  these  degenerate  days,  it  had 
bg§n  found  thai  men  of  weak  heads  or  atomnriw 
took  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  make  their 
escape  shamefully,  before  they  were  quite  drunk ; 
and  that  it  was  to  guard  against  such  an  enor- 
mity thawt  this  nice  expedient  had  been  invented. 
I  have  seen  the  article  in  queatioo  regularly  pn>- 
vided  in  houses  where  there  were  no  men,  that  is, 
no  toaster  of  the  house  ;  the  aistrcss,  therefore, 
must  be  understood  to  have  siren  the  neccsiaxy 
orders  to  i*cr  servants, — a  supposition  rather 
alarming  for  the  delicacy  of  an  Knglnh  lady. 
Y<  t  I  fu>d  these  very  people  up  in  arms  against 
some  uncleanly  practices  of  the  French  ;  for  in* 
stance,  spitting  on  the  floor,  the  carpet,  &c.  &c. 
or  spread iog  in  full  view  a  snuff  taking  handker- 
,  with  an  innocence  of  Hastiness  quite  incon- 
ceivable. To  take  a  lump  of  sugar  with  their 
fingers,  is  another  ofience  the  French  arc  apt  to 
give,  but  of  a  lighter  dye.  Dr  Johnson  was  once 
exposed  to  an  abomination  of  the  latter  sort  du- 
ring bis  tour  in  France,  and  the  astonishment 
ami  wr.U h  of  the  Doctor  arc  faithfully  recorded 
somewhere. 

It  may  be  a  matter  of  curiowty  in  France  to 


c 


L  ON  DON — ItOMIB. 


know  how  the  people  of  London  are  lodged. 
J-  tch  family  occupy  ft  whole  houae,  unless  very 
poor.  'JTicrc  arc  advantage*  and  disadvantages 
at' '  thia  cuitiim.    Among  die  first,  the  be- 

mg  more  independent  of  the  mrise,  the  dirt-,  the 
contagious  disorders,  or  the  danger  of  your 
neighbour's  fires,  and  having  a  more  complete 
home.  On  the  other  hand,  a  snitc  of  apart- 
ments alt  on  one  floor,  even  of  a  few  rooms  on- 
ly, looks  much  better,  and  is  more  convenient. 
These  narrow  houses,  three  or  four  stories  high, — 
one  for  eating,  one  for  sleeping,  a  third  for  com- 
pany, a  fourth  under  ground  tor  the  kitchen,  a 
fifth  perhaps  at  tup  fur  thu  servant*, — and  the 
agility*  the  ease,  the  qnldOtfsM  with  which  the 
individuals  of  the  family  run  up  and  down,  and 
perch  on  the  different  stories,  give  the  idea  of  a 
cage  with  ha  Micks  and  bird*.  The  plan  of  these 
bouses  Is  very  simple,  two  room*  on  each  story  - 
one  in  the  front,  with  two  or  three  windows  look- 
ing on  the  street,  the  other  on  a  yard  behind,  of- 
ten very  small;  the  «tai»  generally  taken  out  of 
the  breadth  of  the  back-room.  The  ground-door 
is  usually  elevated  a  few  (bet  above  tlie  level  of 
the  street,  stnd  separated  from  it  by  an  area,  u 
sort  of  ditch,  a  few  feet  wide,  generally  from 
three  to  eight,  and  six  or  eight  feet  deep,  inclo- 
sed by  an  iron  railing;  the  windows  of  the  kit- 
chen are  in  this  area.  A  bridge  of  stone  or  brick 


LONDON- — HOUSES. 


*3 


kids  to  the  door  of  die  bouse  The  (root  of 
ihcic  houses  is  about  twenty  or  twenty-five  feci 
wide ;  they  certainly  lave  rather  a  paltry  appear. 
ice, — but  you  cannot  pass  the  thrcaliold  with- 
out being  struck  with  the  look  of  order  and  neat- 
neas  of  the  interior.  Instead  of  the  abominable 
tilth  or  the  common  entrance  and  conunon  stain 
(•rench  house,  here  you  Ktep ,roro  the  very 
street  on  a  neat  Hoor-cloth  or  carpet,  the  wall 
painted  or  papered,  a  lamp  in  its  gloss  bell  hang- 
ing from  the  ceiling,  and  every  apartment  in  the 
same  style : — all  is  neat,  compact,  and  indepen. 
<lent,  or,  as  it  is  beat  expressed  here,  snug  and 
comfortable, — a  familiar  expression,  rather  vul- 
garperhaps,  from  liie  thing  ifcelf  beiug  too  com* 
nson. 

On  the  foot  pavement  before  each  house  is  a 
round  hole,  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  in  diame- 
ter, covered  with  an  iron  grate ;  through  that 
hole  the  coal-cellar  is  tilled  without  endangering 
tiu:  neatness  of  the  house.  The  streets  have  all 
common  sewers*  which  drain  the  filth  of  every 
lie.  The  drains  preclude  that  awkward  pro- 
by  which  doubts  tic  a  are  emptied  at  Paris, 
the  air  of  whole  rttrecU,  duiiux  tin* 
with  effluvia,  hurtful  and  sometimes  fatal 
be  inhabitants,  Rich  houses  have  what  arc 
water-closets;  a  eastern  :n  the  upper  story, 
with  water,  communicates  by  a  pipe  and 
vol.  2.  E 


t* 


LONDON— HOUSES RES  I'i- 


cock  to  a  resaelof  earihen  ware,  which  it  washes. 
The  rent  of  a  house  of  the  class  described,  which 
is  or  the  middling  or  kw  kind,  varies  in  different 
parts  of  the  town,  from  L.  80  to  L.  200  sterling, 
including  the  taxes,  which  arc  from  1a  20  to 
Lv  50.  The  following  sketch  will  give  an  ides 
of  0B6  of  the  best  houses.  Thi*  is  the  first  story. 
Below,  on  Lite  ground-Door,  the  front  room,  34 
feet  by  SO,  is  the  eating-room  -f  the  one  18  by 
SS  is  the  servants'  ball.  This  house  was  bought 
by  die  present  proprietor  for  L.  16,000  sterling, 
but  bad  cost  nearly  double  in  building.  The 
rent  of  bouses  a  little  inferior  is  L.  400  or  L.  600 
sterling  a-ycar,  including  taxes;  but  there  are 
iuiuni-K  Lite  rent  of  which  is  L.  1000  a-ycar.  The 
best  houses  are  occupied  by  the  proprietors  them, 
selves.  The  establishment  of  such  a  1m>usc  as  is 
described  above,  is  from  four  to  six  male  ser- 


vants, and  probably  as  many  women  ;— the 
wages  of  the  former,  I-.  -to  sterling,  dress  inclu- 
ded ;  and  of  the  latter,  L.  10  to  1*  12  ;  and  the 


d 


LOXDOX— ME.IT,  ft*.— HOUSE  Of  OOMMOXS.     •? 

wbole  annual  cxpcnce,  I*  4O00  to  L.  6000  ster- 
ling. ButcJier-moat  in  as  follows :  Beef  and  mut- 
ton, 8<L;  veal,  K  to  1*.  6U  ;  butter,  Is.  jot.; 
bread,  3d.  the  pound;  a  good  cow,  I«  18  to 
L»  20  sterling $  a  good  horse,  L.  50  to  L.  100 
sterling. 

Mmrch  50.— I  had  long  intended  to  go  to  the 
Hou*e  of  Commons,  but  wished  to  get  some  per. 
son  used  to  the  place  to  go  with  me.  I  found, 
however,  that  few  people  liked  to  encounter  the 
tra  Mile  and  tiitigur,  ami  I  might  almost  *ay,  the 
humiliations  to  which  an  admission  tr>  tin  ^nllery 
exposes  you,  whenever  the  business  before  the 
iloufc  it  at  all  interesting,  therefore  I  took  my 
determination,  and  went  sJone  yesterday.  The 
door  of  the  gallery  opened  at  four ;  a  great 
crowd,  accumulated  on  the  stairs  two  hours  be- 
fore,  pressed  in  at  once  through  a  narrow  door, 
where  your  title  of  admission  is  demanded  ;  mine 
was  an  order  from  a  member  j  but  I  observed 
that  a  nvc  shilling  piece  was  the  most  usual  pass- 
port, received  tod  more  graciously  than 
m  v  legitimate  order.  I  found,  on  entering,  the 
first  and  second  rows  fall,  I  sat  on  the  third,  apd 
bad  two  more  rows  of  benches  behind  me.  The 
home  below  was  thin  of  members ;  they  were 
employed  in  some  minor  business  dispatched 
•out  deli.           The   room    appeared   to  be 


London — iioitu:  or  commons. 


about  uxtj  feet  by  Gn  I  i  three  window*  to- 

wards the  Thame*  at  oik  end,  high  above  the 
rtoor;  the  public  gallery,  where  I  was,  at  the 
other  end,  lacing  the  window,  anil  about  IS  or 
t  above  thr  Hour  ;  n  narrower  gallery  on 
each  aide,  for  the  use  of  members  when  the 
houivc  is  too  lull  below,  or  they  feel  inclined  to 
take  a  nap,  which  they  do  with  great  intrepidity, 
in  lull  view  of  tl»e  public  in  die  gallery,  arran- 
ging the  cushions  before  they  lie  down,  and  ma- 
king a  comfortable  pillow  for  their  honourable 
heail.s.  The  choir  dJ  i  in:  >|>r:ikcr  (who  docs  not 
apeak  except  on  points  of  form  and  order)  face* 
the  gallery,  and  las  the  windows  behind,  orrathcr 
above  it-  five  rows  of  benches,  covered  with 
green  leather,  are  disposed  in  an  amphitheatre 
round  the  room :  the  walls  are  wainscot  led  with 
dark  wood ;  a  great  lustre  hangs  from  the  ceil- 
hi 3  in  the  middle  ;  three  chandeliers  un  each 
side,  againsttliegallcries.  The  Speaker  is  dressed 
in  a  black  gown,  and  nn  enormous  white  powder. 
g«  At  bis  l<il  arc  two  person*  in  Uic  same 
costume,  seated  before  a  large  table  covered  with 
books  and  papers  ;  tlie  mace,  an  essential  article, 
in  the  table  whenever  the  Speaker  presides, 
and  under  the  tabic  when  the  House  ii  in  corn- 
mittcc,  'flic  right  hand  of  the  Speaker  is  occu- 
py the  i  and  their  adherents,  the 


LOSIH>V — UOVSF.  OF  COMMONS. 


09 


by  the  OppOtfclbfl  ;  luit  this  order  a  not  obli- 
gatory. J  hi  e  is  a  sketch  of  the  general  appear- 
ance of  the  house  from  the  gallery  where  I  sac 
A  tall*  sleeder,  and  genteel-looking  man  rose  to 
give  notice  of  a  motion  he  intended  to  make 
next  week,  respecting  an  ae;  of  oppression  and 
cruelty  of  a  captain  of  a  ship  of  war  against 
of  his  sailors.  He  said  only  a  few  words  :— 
was  Sir  Francis  Burdctt,  a  very  notorious  gentle- 
man at  present.  The  Walcheren  business  was 
then  taken  up;— General  T.  spoke  against  the 
jnin  iters;  Genera!  C.  ami  Mr  fl.  for  them  ;  all 
at  great  length,  ami,  as  it  appeared  to  xne,  very 
heavily*  Then  several  young  members  came  for. 
ward,  that  is  to  my,  yjurttc,  which  is  done  with. 


70  LONDON — HOCRh  OP  COM  MOMS — V&STMINSra. 

out  leaving  their  places,  and  merely  standing  up ; 
Lord  P.  Lord  G-  G.  and  Mr  K — this  hist  mem- 
ber spoke  with  great  vehemence  in  favour  of 
minister*, — all  three  with  a  sort  of  adioolboy 
oratory,  well  enough  as  a  kwon  for  practice, 
but  to  no  sort  of  purpose  ai  to  persuading  or 
eluinging  any  opinion-  A  veteran  member 
■rose  next,  old  and  toothless,  and  speaking  bin 
ft  Jew,  uncouthly  and  carelessly,  but  ardently, 
and  with  that  seeming  sclf-conviction,  which  is 
amonjr.  the  very  first  requisite*  for  eloquence. 
MBppcd  forward  On  Use  floor  tonanli  the 
table,  aim)  wed  animated  gcMiliea,  u  little  A  (a 
Frtutpnsc,  •  or  nt  least  very  different  from  the 
English  rnorle  of  oratory— Mr  Grattan  is  Irish. 
All  this  Listed  till  eleven.  I  felt  quite  weary ; 
my  legs  cramped  from  sitting  so  long,  tor  you 
arc  forbidden  to  stand  up  for  a  moment  except 
to  go  away;  and,  giving  up  the  point,  I  went 
home,  traversing  the  dark  and  solitary  immensi- 
ty nf  thai  gigantic  hall  of  Westminster,  which  ia 
:,  and  74  wide,  ai>d  at  this  time  of 
night,  feebly  lighted  by  two  or  three  lamps  only. 


•  U  F/sn«  ihcic  u  m  puWk  ipttkiritf  unrtudied,  and  the 
actko,  mwIiinJ  tko,  aim*  *t  grace  nod  dignity;  b*>«,  whw 

«l   li*  espriwion  of  «*rac*uica  and  vranntli. 
;«t  of  gcrtar*  k  gtoerally  thai  of  «rfl!af  down  die 
clenched  fat,  to  Fnawe,  thai  <rf  i»aviof  the  open  hand. 


LONDOX— WRSTHINSTEJl — HOUSE  OF  COMMON 


rcxmbles  the  anticharnber  of  the  infernal  re- 
gion*. It  is,  in  tact,  the  anticharnber  of  elic  court* 
ticc,  the  doors  of  which  arc  distributed  all 
KHiadj  as  well  as  the  anticharnber  of  Parliament 
It  it  here  that  the  grestf  (Hall  b/  impeachment 
arc  carried  on  ; — here  thai  the  regicide  sentence 
mi  pronounced  against  CharJes  the  Riat ; — and 
it  was  here  also  that  Richard  the  Second  enter- 
tained ten  thousand  gueats,  who  have  been 
dead  these  four  hundred  yean* 

This  morning  1  have  learned  that  Mr  Caaniog 
and  Mr  Whit  bread  spoke  after  i  had  left  the  house* 
which  sat  till  two  o'clock  in  tin-  morning !  I  re- 
greL  much  not  to  hare  heard  thcM!  two  tpcakcrx, 
although  tiie  subject  (Walcheresi)  is  certainly 
quite  worn  out.  1  shall  make  another  effort  to 
hear  them  ;  but  the  sacrifice  it  great,— two  or 
three  hours  standing  on  the  stairs* — then  to  Hcale 
the  breach,— and  at  latt  to  sit  motionless  and 
cramped  on  a  board  eight  or  ten  hours,  hearing, 
perhaps,  schoolboys  and  proscrs,  and  at  fast,  on 
the  eve  of  obtaining  the  rccompcncc  of  so  much 
patience  and  suffering,  to  be  Uirnod  out  liaco  a 
dog  at  the  motion  uf  any  one  member  whfl  may 
call  &>x  the  standing  order  to  clear  the  gallery, 
Mithont  aasigntDg  any  motive,  Mr  Windham, 
is  a  great  supporter  of  the  privilege  of  turn. 
I  pleasure,  and  has  got  into 
a  scrape  on  Out  account  with  the  public  and  with 


n 


LOS  DON'  —  HOL'SE  OF  COMMON'S. 


the  reporters,  »  one  of  those  I  wished  mo&rtd 
hear,  especially  as  he  can  only  be  beard  and  not 
read,  the  reporter*  having  formed  a  league  not 
to  report  his  speeches; 


41  Iflertjuue 
Qu'on  wit  jiar.J  pir  oil  I'on  a  ptefct.1* 


->u 


This  i*  no  insignificant  retaliation  on  Mr  Wind- 
ham,  who  liked  as  well  as  any  one  to  *n 
speeches  appear  to  advantage  in  the  newspapers  j 
anri  is  said  more  than  once  to  have  revised  the 
reports  mode  of  them  before  printing. 

Mr  Windham  is  nearly  the  last  survivor  of  n 
certain  class  of  statesmen  who  liave  adorned  the 
British  senate  during  thn  reign.  Fox,  Burke; 
and  Phi,  were  men  of  talents  and  characters  toi 
tally  different  from  each  Other ;  and  Mr  V 
ham,  one  of  the  great  luminaries  of  this  bright 
constellation,  is  different  from  the  other  three. 
They  however  all  began,  or  were,  for  some  early 
part  of  their  political  life,  in  the  opposition;  they 
were  more  or  less  reformers.  Two  of  them  aim. 
ed  at  giving  to  Parliament  a  more  popular  base, 
and  more  purely  representative ;  none,  however, 
1  upon  these  principle*  when  in  power;  nmi 
rth  the  exception  of  Mr  Fox,  renounced  the 
faith  of  their  youth  openly.  I  am  inclined  not 
to  think  favourably  either  of  a  young  man,  who 


LOVDON IWBXIAMESTAKT  DEBATES.  7J 

has  fctiJc  ardour  fur  what  is  called  liberty,  or  of 
a  man  of  malum  age,  who  has  much  ol 
Mr  Pitt  teems  to  have  changed  before  the  requU 
site  age.  Tiic  dreadful  results  of  the  Freooh 
struggle  for  liberty,  which  Mr  Burke's  i magi  na- 
tion, at  least  as  much  as  his  wisdom,  aiiticip 
carried  him  to  the  ojijMMitc  extreme ;  and,  to- 
ward* die  end  of  his  Life,  he  seemed  to  sec  no 
safety  ibx  mankind,  but  in  absolute  power.  Had 
be  Lived  to  this  day,  he  would  have  found  that 
the  patriotic  IVcuch  were  much  of  the  same 
mind  with  him  ;  but  this  spoiled  child  of  genius, 
coosUnt  to  his  antipathies  alone*  would  probably 
have  ded  to  liberty  back  again,  as  the  regicjdos 
receded  from  iu  Mr  Fox  had  the  merit  uf  con- 
sistency ;  he  always  was  a  friend  of  temperate 
liberty  ;  opposed  eonbUntly  the  encroachments 
of  ministerial  power ;  always  was  a  good  whig, 
lie  seems  to  me,  h.  to  hare,  thought  too 

well  of  the  French  revolution,  and  to  lave  feared 
too  little  it  i -.gland,  is  his  oppo- 

nent, Pitt,  feared  it  too  mud.,  m  i»:;gncd  to  fear 
it..  Dutiug  the  shut  t  (luxation  of  Fox'n  power,  he 
did  little  for  what  he  deemed  liberty ;  and  seem- 
ed a*  little  dis-poicd  as  hi*  predecessor*  to  sacri- 
ticc  to  peace,  after  declaiming  so  long  ogainU 
IX  might  indeed  be  want  of  power  rat  lie r 
than  of  sincerity.  IIi»  eluijucace  appears  to 
haw  been  the  genuine  English  eloquence ;  sim- 


74 


LONDON — PARLiaMXXraK*  l>KBA 


pk,  direct,  *od  vigorous,  rather  than  subtle  anil 
ornamented.  In  the  heat  of  debate,  his  Toica 
was  apt  to  become  sharp  and  disagreeable.  It  U 
strange,  that,  knowing  so  well  how  to  speak,  this 
gnat  miui  did  nut  write  better.  The  fragment 
of  history  published  after  his  death  is  remark* 
able  for  a  sort  of  laborious  simplicity ;  and  its 
morality  seems  liberal  to  laxity,  f  was  surprised 
to  find  his  diplomatic  correspondence  with  M, 
Talleyrand  waa  not  written  in  very  good  French. 
Pitf,  tlw  revert*  of  Fox  in  every  thing,  had 
more  art  and  logic*  a  choice  of  expressions  never 
equalled,  and  the  most  poignant  irony,  without 
the  persuasive  eloquence  of  his  great  opponent. 
bVirkc  wna  all  imagination ;  but,  judging  par- 
ticularly front  what  he  wrote  on  the  French 
revolution,  an  ungovernable  imagination,  the 
;neasand  exuberance  ot~  which  imirhuJattxIc 
aiwl  delight,  but  proved  little,  and  diil  not  con- 
vince. His  learning  and  wit  gave  his  conversa- 
tion a  peculiar  charm  ;  ye*,  at  a  certain  p 
of  his  parliamentary  lite,  it  •««  otverved,  that 
the  bcnchci  of  the  House  became  empty  when- 
ever he  spoke,  OOrj  be  was  called  from  that  cir- 
Ottnatsgh  r  tb6  atofil  hell.  Pos-ibly  the  delight 
attending  the  exercise  of  imagination  and  wit, 
is  greater  and  more  lasting  for  the  actor,  than 
tor  those  acted  upon. 


LOJfDOy— THR  BF-POHTZRi. 


Mr  Windham  is  lets  unlike  Burke  than  cither 
of  the  others,  with  a  aimpier  style  of  eloquence, 
and  ail  imagination  more  uiiJer  command  j  kit 
ideas,  however,  appear  full  as  eccentric,  and 
more  paradoxical,  lie  likes  to  cut  his  way 
through  the  opinion*  and  principles  of  the  r«wt 
of  the  world,  provided  they  arc  modern  opinions 
nd  principles,  for  his  innovations  consist  in 
changing  nothing, — and  his  originality  in  doing 
what  was  always  done.  He  whose  object  ia  only 
resistance,  may  indeed  attain  it  equally,  whether 
he  swims  /aster  than  flic  stream,  or  stands  against 
it,  and  lets  it  pass  by  him.  The  following  torn 
mot  is  given  to  Mr  Sheridan  :  The  generality  of 
men,  said  he,  see  only  two  sides  to  a  question, 
but  Mr  Windham  contrives  to  find  always  a 
third,  and  then  pairs  off  with  himself. 

The  reporters  are  persons  enjoyed  by  the 
editors  of  newspapers,  to  take  notes  of  the  prin- 
cipal speeches  in  Parliament.  They  were  Mat- 
ed behind  me  in  the  gallery,  and  I  took  advan- 
tage of'  the  opportunity  to  observe  their  mode  of 
proceeding.  Far  from  setting  down  all  that  is 
said,  lliey  only  take  notes,  to  appearance  very 
carelessly,  one  word  in  a  hundred,  to  mark  the 
leading  points,  it  is  difficult  to  understand  how 
tlicy  can  afterwards  give  the  connected  speeches 
we  see  in  the  papers,  out  of  such  slender  mate- 


LOKBOX-^THE  RFIWTLRS. 


rials,  and  with  so  little  time  to  prepare  them  ; — 
the  Speeches  of  the  night,  fcpofcen,  perhaps  at 
two  or  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  or  later, 
being  served  up  to  the  luxurious  inhabitants  of 
this  capital  at  their  breakfast  the  same  morning. 
What  a  life  !  One  of  these  reporter*,  named 
Woodfall,  who  b  dead,  ww  able  without  any 
note*,  and  entirely  iron)  memory,  to  write,  on 
bis  return  from  the  House*  all  that  had  been  said 
worth  repeating.  They  are  crowded  in  the  gal- 
lery, with  the  rest  of  die  people,  writing  on  their 
knees,  in  a  constrained  attitude,  laughing  and 
whispering  joke*  amag  themselves  about  the 
solemn  huMueas  KU^UK  forward  below,  and  often 
praying  that  auch  or  such  tiresome  speakers  may 
have  done  soon,  and  ait  down  again. 

The  exclamation  hear !  hear !  hear !  so  often 
imJ  in  the  reports  of  speeches  in  the  newt* 
i  |>i  r%  surprised  mc  much,  the  eflect  being  qalto 
different  from  what  I  expected.  A  modest,  gen. 
inl  Iteaj  |  licar  i  U  first  heard  from  one  or  two 
vo*ccS"-^lbcn5  jo*",— •more  and  nsorc, — CPEaSeSh 
ami, — till  at  lust  a  wild,  tiininltiiiius,  ami  discord- 
ant noise  pervades  the  whole  house,  resembling 
very  nearly  that  of  a  Mock  of  frightened  geese  ; 
rising  and  tailing,  ending  and  beginning  again,  as 
aerobe*  happens  to  say  any  thing  remark  able. 

Judging  from  the  reputed  taciturnity  of  this  ria. 
11 


LOS  DO.V— BCTOBTERS — ft  ITUOU*. 


77 


lion,  it  might  be  supposed  that  tin  gravity  of  a 
legislative  assembly  would  be  more  particularly 
dwcrvahli-  in  the  British  Senate  ;  instead  of 
which,  it  iu  the  merrie&t  place  that  ever  was. 
These  legislator*  seem  perpetually  on  the  watch 
tor  :i  joke;  and  if  it  can  be  introduced  in  tl»e 
most  serious  debate,  it  succeed*  so  much  die 
better.  Some  of  the  members,  Mr  Sheridan  for 
instance,  arc  such  complete  matter*  of  the  sena- 
torial risibility,  that,  by  a  significant  word  or  ex- 
pression of  countenance:,  rliey  cart,  when  they 
\Atxxe,  put  tlieir  honourable  coMengue*  in  pood 
humour.  English  taciturnity  is  not  proof  against 
a  tally  of  wit,  and  still  less,  perhaps,  against  a 
9Uoko  of  buffoonery,  called  here  humour.  I  have 
been  told  that  the  French  have  no  humour. 
Without  bringfrg  m  Muliere  to  confute  this,  I 
thought  it  sufficient  to  produce  "  Let  Battut 
payent  i' Amende"  which  happened  to  be  by  me ; 
[  trust  no  Englishman  who  reads  it  will  say 
we  have  no  humour.  1  am  ready  to  grant,  that, 
in  general,  we  do  not  descend  quite  so  low.  The 
French  are  trifling  and  decorous,— the  English 
grave  and  farcical. 

Considering  the  growing  importance  of  public 
opinion,— of  that  modern  tribunal,  which  go- 
vernment* are  obliged  to  consult  now-a-dayx, 
and  before  whom  the  most  despotic  think  n't  to 
ji: stiff  their  measures,  paying  it  the  compliment 


f 


LONDON — tlBKRTT  0*"  THE  PRE&*. 


of  imposing  upon  it ;  considering  again  the  h> 
rhiencc  a  daily  communication  of  the  deliatc*  in 
Parliament  ha<  on  this  public  opinion,  and  that, 
1  ut  lor  the  report  of  speeches,  they  wouki  be 
o\m  to  the  nation  at  large,  or  even  would 
not  ctist  «nch  a*  they  are,  being  intended  for  the 
people  full  an  much  as  for  die  House,—- it  is  very 
natural  to  feel  a  considerable  degree  of  surprise 
at  rinding  the  persons  employed  in  collecting 
this  all-important  communication,  taking  on  their 
kner-s  and  by  stealth,  the  notes  which  arc  to  feed 
the  political  appetite  and  legitimate  curiosity  of 
an  enlightened  public.  Instead  of  on  alimentary 
organ,  Mr  Windham  seems  to  look  upon  it  as  ra- 
a  secretory  one,  of  which  he  is  ashamed. 
The  freedom  of  the  pre**  is  considered  in  Eng- 
land as  the  palladium  of  national  lil>erty  j  on  the 
other  hand,  the  abuse  of  it  is  undoubtedly  it* 
curse.  It  is  the  only  plague,  somebody  has  said, 
which  Moses  forgot  to  inflict  upon  Egypt.  This 
modern  plague  penetrates  like  the  vermin  of  the 
old,  into  the  interior  of  families,  carrying  in  its 
train  defamation  and  misery.  The  press  diffuses, 
as  to  politics,  as  many  falsehoods  as  truths ;  and 
although  itfumudies  mr:n  il  refutation,  appa- 
■eiitly  reciprocal,  and,  from  the  thork  of  opi- 
nions, the  real  truth  might  be  expected  to  come 
at  last,  it  is  in  fact  reciprocity  aU on  one  tide  ;  tor 
1  find  every  one  reads  only  the  paper*  of  his  par. 


J.OSDOV— LIBERTr  OT  THE  PBUS. 


79 


ty,  strengthening  his  errors  and  prejudices  in. 
Mead  of  removing  them.  The  constitution  leaves 
to  every  man  the  use  of  bis  pen  as  of  his  sword, 
sod  be  may  be  punished  foe  a  libel  as  for  a  mur- 
der ;  but  the  one  crime  is  more  difficult  to  prove 
than  the  other*— it  is  susceptible  of  so  many 
different  degrees  and  talce*  such  various  shapes, 
that  it  commonly  escapes  the  grasp  of  the  law, 
although  its  consequences  arc  infinitely  more 
general  and  extensive.    The  evil  is,  no  doubt* 

tier  pointed  out  tlian  it*  remedy.  Bui  what- 
ever evils  may  rcwik  from  the  trccdom  of  the 
press,  it  is  not  now  to  be  suppressed,  being  so 
closely  interwoven  in  the  English  iniuiurn<  and 
national  oomtilulion,  as  not  to  be  Ion)  from  H 
without  destroying  the  whole  texture  :  and,  not* 
withstanding  its  enormous  inconveniences,  it  is 
impossible  to  deny,  that  tin)  people  owes  much 
to  this  freedom.  It  has  tasted  of  the  tree  of 
knowledge,  and  cannot  now  return  to  its  primi- 
tive  state  of  ignorance  and  innocence. 

The  consequence  of  this  general  publicity  is, 
a  sort  of  transparency  of  the  Ixxiy  politic,  which 
allow*  you  to  see  mauy  woiulerful,  and  some 
alarming  natural  processes ;  the  labour  of  the 
stomach  and  of  the  intestines,  and  the  suction  of 
innumerable  hungry  vessels,  carrying  health  and 
strength,  or  disease  and  death,  in  incessant 
streams  01"  blood  and  humours,  to  even  part  of 


LONDON — UBEJiTV  Or  THK 


the  Imly.  Any  derangement  is  of  course,  ob- 
served  immediately  ;  and  the  cause,  as  well  as 
the  scat  of  the  disorder,  being  obvious,  the  hand 
the  knife  can  penetrate,  cleanse,  and  rc- 
S  without  danger,  under  the  guidance  of  the 
A  body  so  formed  and  constituted  would 
bare  the  chance  of  a  long  and  healthy  life,  al. 
though  it  might  not  be  a  joyful  one ;  and  the 
appertaining  to  that  body  would,  in  all  pro* 
lily,  uc<juire  precisely  that  plaintive  cart  and 
lit  or' grumbling,  so  observable  among  the  in- 
habitants of  this  n'ne  and  prosperous  island. 

Extremes  in  government,  says  Hume,  approach 
near  to  each  other.  In  a  rirmly-rctahlixhed  arbi* 
trary  government  the  ruler  has  no  jealousy  of  the 
people,  and  allows  them  a  considerable  degree  of 
ibcrty  j — in  a  republic,  none  of  the  magistrates 
so  eminent  as  to  alarm  the  people,  and  they 
suffered  to  apply  the  law  in  all  its  strictness 
and  severity.  But  in  a  limited  government,  like 
that  of  England,  the  magistrates  and  the  people 
will  be  reciprocally  jealous  and  watchful ;  the 
liberty  of  speaking  and  publishing  will  1m;  carried 
as  far  ns  it  ran  go  uillunit  beaming  a  crime,  and 
tuii  only  at  what  the  laws  define  libel  and  sedi- 
tion. Such  are  the  limits  of  the  power  of  the 
magistrates  and  of  the  rights  of  the  people  ;  and 
they  will  both  go  to  the  utmost  length  of  it.  It 
has  occurred  to  mc,  that  if  each  public  newspa- 


LONDON — LIBERTY  Of  THE  PUL&5- 


Sl 


j»er  was  divided  between  the  two  great  national 
I*r:ic5 ;  if,  tor  instance,  a  niioUtchal  printer  was 
obliged  to  send  hil  sheets*  printed  on  one  «*lc 
only,  to  One  of  the  opposition,  w1m>  would  iill  tlji- 
othcr  half  with  wltat  he  pleaded,  mi  as  not  to  ad- 
<tcr  die  dote  of  poison  without  its  antidote, 
the  people  fiOJaU  hardly  be  .10  grossly  deceived 
;w  they  arc  now.  A  difficulty,  howvter,  would 
the  third  party,  of  absolu;<  ucra, 

who  might  not  consent  to  divide  with  the  whig*, 
mid,  like  Mr  Windham,  would  be  reduced  to 
pair  oif  wkli  tlient»eivc». 

Ih«  report  of  the  debate*  at  the  time  of  the 
parliamentary  inquiry  concerning  tlie  Duke  of 
\orfc,  (an  snair  which  reflects  both  honour  and 
liiflgiacc  on  this  untion)  having  occasioned  a 
great  deal  of  scandal,  and,  as  is  alleged,  having 
unfairly  prepossessed  public  opinion,  the  rm 
ter*  wished  to  spare  themselves  similar  acuodal 
00  the  oocaaion  of  the  Wakhrren  inquiry,  mid 
one  of  them  declared  lib  iuteuuun  of  enforcing, 
day  by  day,  the  standing  order  by  which  any 
member  can,  wlKuerer  he  pleases,  and  without 
assigning  his  reasons,  send  the  public  out  of  the 
Kattery.   On  this  intimation,  '  oved 

in  amendment  to  tin-  staoding  order,  making  a 
previous  decision  of  the  house  necessary  to  clear 
the  gallery.  During  the  delate  on  Mr  Slieridan's 
motion,  Mr  Windham  denied  that  the  report* 

vor.  1.  p 


•= 


LOMDO.V — HOUSE  OF  COMMONS. 


could  be  considered  as  very  important  to  national 
face  tin*  otnrtoaa  ih  MM  el  bm  Uhm  2£ 
or  $0  years  standing,  ami  that,  according  to  the 
professed  friends  of  this  same  libtitv,  it  haabccn 
on  the  decline  ever  since.     In  bii  ml  against 
the  report*,  Mr  Windham  attacked  also  the  re- 
porters, charging  them  with  being  a  parcel  of 
needy  adventurers  bankrupt*,  footmen,  &C*  He 
received  from  ono  of  them  an  excellent  letter, 
shewing  in  strong,  hut  temperate  language,  the 
injustice  and  illiberal ity  of  this  personal  attack. 
Ur  Windham  dnl  not  disdain  justifying  Himself 
by  sua  aiwwer  worthy  of  In*  talents  and  charac- 
ter »  and  ended  by  an  offer,  waiving  privilege,  of 
that  sort  of  satis&ctioi  which  one  gentleman 
to  another.     I  have  this  anecdote  from  a 
in  who  had  seen  the  letters. 
"flic  House  of  Commons  has  exhibited  lately  a 
very  curious  tragicomic  scene,  which  I  do  not 
itroducc  as  characteristic  of  the  manners  of  this 
angular  iM'oj»lo,lH;ing,pt:rhaiwl  even  among  them, 
unique  in  extravagance.     An  honourable  uiein- 
ber,  a  country  gentleman,  and,  I  believe,  a  coun- 
ty member,  took  offence  ai  some  slight  he  had 
experienced  during  the  late  examination  in  Par- 
icut  \  and  hating  made  some  intemperate  re- 
narks  supported  by  oaths  there  was  a  motion, 
that  the  words  of  the  honourable  member  should 
l>e  taken  down.     This  produced  another  cxpJoi 


LONDON — HOUSE  0?  f  OMWOXS. 


SS 


sion  from  tbe  honourable  nat-mU-r,  who  vraa  or- 
dered by  the  speaker  to  leave  the  bonsfe,  which 
he  obeyed  with  some  difficulty,  The  house  thai 
derided  that  he  should  be  put  into  the  custody 
of  the  serjeant-at-arms.  Thw  resolution  was  no 
sooner  announced  to  him,  than  he  burst  in  again, 
furiously  calling  to  the  speaker  that  he  had  no 
right  to  semi  him  into  confinement ;  and  that 
(he  tit t If  fellow  in  the  grcttt  wig  was  the  servant, 
and  not  tke  matter  q/  the  IIottH  <f  Commons. 
The  speaker,  in  consequence  of  tbe  vote  of"  ins. 
prisonraent,  was  obifged  to  order  tl:c  sergeant- 
at-arm9  to  do  his  duty ;  and  the  latter,  with  die 
assistance  of  some  other  officers,  succeeded  in 
carrying  off  his  prisoner  after  sin  obstinate  com- 
bat,— the  honourable  member  being  an  Her- 
cules !  What  would  the  Parisians  say  to  an  affair 
like  this  in  their  Scnat  Conserratif,  and  of  one  of 
the  members  io  grand  costume  giving  battle  to 
the  door-keeper  on  tbe  senatorial  floor  ?  Two 
days  after,  the  honourable  member,  having  ad- 
dressed a  penitential  letter  to  the  speaker,  was 
brought  to  the  bar  of  the  houie  to  receive  a  re- 
primand ;  and,  after  paying  the  scrgcant-at-ann* 
tor  hi*  services,  was  allowed  to  take  his  seat. 

The  legislature  of  the  United  States  witnessed, 
some  years  ago,  a  scene  si  ill  more  edifying.  An 
honourable  memlwr  (a  naturalized  Irishman)  ac- 
tually spit  in  the  face  of  another  honourable 


*4 


LON"D0X — ItOt'SE  OP  COMMONS. 


member.  Immediate  oonaeqiteticen  were  pre- 
vented ;  but  the  day  following  the  insulted  mem. 
bex  gave  battle  to  hb  filthy  colleague  in  the  same 
place.  They  fought  vrith  fists,  and  with  pokers 
and  tongs,  mid  polled  in  the  dust  of  the  legisla- 
tive floor  before  the  representatives  of  the  nation ! 
The  speaker  l*ad  left  the  chair  to  give  Mr  play. 
yf/n/2.— 'I*hc  Walchcren  question  wm  finally 
decided  the  day  alter  I  wus  at  the  boose,  or  ra- 
ther the  next  day  after  lliat,  the  debates  having 
been  protracted  till  long  alter  day-light.  A  smaM 
majority  of  21— that  is  s$3  for,  and  232  against 
the  ministers—  approve*  all  !•  This  is  certainly 
quite  contrary  to  public  opinion,  which  is  alto- 
gether against  ministers.  The  opinion  of  the 
House,  bo  doubt  is,  in  reality,  not  less  so ;  but, 
besides  those  members  who  vote  in  every  esse 
for  the  ministers,  there  are  many  independent 
member*  who  have  voted  on  their  aide,  without 
approving  of  their  conduct  in  this  instance,  mere- 
ly because  they  think  them  upon  the  whole  the 
best  minister*  that  enn  be  had.    Their  power  ia, 


*  The  newfitpm  hare  gi'ren  a  lit*  of  member*  •*!><>  have 
f Mtd  for  and  again*  rainkUrs  oo Uic  Walrhmrn  qotWiOik  Of 
£W  roamlws  who  voted  for,  mo»t  hod  places ;  and  of  22L2 
member*  who  voted  a^aiuit,  not  one  had  *nv  place.  Thi*  u 
certainly  a  most  eloquent  Iwt,  even  allowing  for  some  mlsrc- 
pcmatalion. 


LONDON— EXPULSION  OF  BKrOKTEKS.  M 

laom-YtT,  much  ahafceu  ;  uiul  li  they  ahmild  send 
Sir  Francis  Buidetl  la  the  Tower  lo-inorTow, 
terioiu  consequences  may  follow. 

The  member*  of  Parliament  seem  to  feci  cift- 
gu laxly  relieved  by  the  final  termination  of  this 
Waklirrcn  question.  I  have  heard  some  <  I  ilnni 
speak  with  terror  of  a  certain  great  hook,  where 
the  evidences  an  the  case  were  recorded,  and 
which  was  the  text  of  so  many  heavy  and  tire- 
tome  speeches.  Their  despair  was  at  its  height, 
when  at  seven  o'clock  of  the  morning  of  the  last 
day,  aiter  a  vr/iote  night  of  debate,  Sir  Home  P. 
mi  seen  coming  forwards  with  the  same  great 
book  under  im  arm  t  Rut  this  degression  gave 
way  to  sudden  mirth,  on  his  introducing  in  In* 
speech  some  remarks  about  bomk*  #HMg  to  ttte 


The  affair  of  the  reporters  of  speeches  in  Par. 
tiament  secnm  to  me  deserving  of  attention,  a* 
it  serves  to  throw  much  light  on  the  nice  mechan- 
ism of  this  government,  and  its  peculiar  consti- 
tution arid  character.  A  certain  body  of  lawyers 
(benchers  of  Lincoln's  Inn),  in  order  to  shew 
their  zeal  against  what  one  of  the  parties  calls 
lie  liberty  0/  Me  pre**,  and  the  other,  tht  unbri- 
dled licence  a/  Me  prcst,  had,  pending  the  late 
debates  on  the  subject,  passed  a  resolution,  by 
which  any  person  couvicted  of  having  ever  writ- 
ten  for  the  newspapers  for  hire,  should  be  exclu- 


lovdox— turn 


dcd  from  their  body.  Tnc  persons  thus  cjccIu- 
Ird  present  t*d  a  |KTtiti4Mt  to  Parliament  praying 
iirf.  Tliis  gave  rise  to  debates*  in  tbe  course 
which  Mr  Sheridan  said,  that  he  was  ready  to 
luce  a  long  list  of  men,  eminent*  not  only  in 
law  and  other  professions,  but  some  of  them 
lincnt  in  Parliament,  who  had  begun  their  ca- 
U  writers  for  the  newspapers.  He  named 
ir  Burke,  and  several  others ;  and  he  added, 
it  of  twenty-three  gentlemen  now  employed  in 
taking  notes  in  the*  gallery  of  the.  House,  eigh- 
teen had,  to  bis  own  knowledge,  been  educated 
in  the  Universities ;  most  of  them  had  graduated, 
inrl  several  of  them  had  obtained  premiums,  and 
idler  literal y  ilistnu:uoiiH.  He  recalled  tlie  weil- 
;nown  anecdote  of  the  celebrated  Dr  Johnson: 
Two  admired  speeehea  of  Lord  Chatham  having 
:n  compared  to  those  of  Cicero  and  Demos- 
icnea*  Johnson  was  asked  which  of  the  two  man* 
nertt,  the  Greek  or  the  Roman,  these  spswchai 
resembled  most  ?  I  do  not  know,  lie  answered  ; 
bill  this  1  can  sty,  1  wrote  them  both.*  Would 
it  then  have  tieeii  a  disgrace  for  the  benchers 
of  Lincoln's  Inn  to  have  received  Dr  Johnson 
among  them  ?  Mr  Stephens,  another  distinguish- 
member  of  Parliament,  rose  to  condemn  this 


LOHVOS — REPORTERS* 


as unjust,  illiberal,  ami  impolitic;  stri- 
ng Hawkcaworth,  Steele,  and  Addison  to  the 
JUt  01  pthhaitwl  men  who  luad  written  for  the 
tfttprra  ;  uid  be  wlto  baa  tin?  honour  of  ad- 
dfaaaing  you,  he  continued,  interrupted  by  uni- 
vcrol  applause,  was  one  of  those  guilty  persona 
thirty  years  ago !  It  b  thus  that  talents  n 'id  ge- 
nius, and  the  turbuleacc  of  taction  itself*  ind 
here*  in  the  different  ranks  of  society,  some  out- 
let,— some  door  half  open,— *oroc  narrow  avenue 
To  honours  ami  distinctiuus,  which  recompense 
those  who  obtain  tiicm  ;  occupy  and  sooth  with 
hopes  even  those  wlio  do  not ;  and  promt  those 
political  explosions,  which,  lry  a  di  cad  Jul,  but  a 
natural  nod  almost  just  revolution,  replace,  in 
otJier  countries,  amidst  Uie  wrecks  of  social  in- 
stitutions, men  where  they  ought  to  be,  in  the 
order  of  their  abilities  aim  their  courage  t  and 
where  it  is  better  tbey  should  be  allowed  to  ar- 
I  «aceal>ly  and  by  degrees,  than  suddenly/* 
and  over  the  heads  of  the  imbecile  crowd  crush- 
ed under  their  feet.  In  the  gradual  order  of  ad- 
vancement, virtues  tell  for  aoaietliiug  ;  hut  in 
the  scramble  of  a  revolution  they  are  of  no  avail, 
talents  themselves  owe  much  to  chance, 
he  minority  in  tlte  House  of  Lords  Wnmcs 
mi y  much  for  communicating  some 
vaiecorrcspu<ideiicewithii»div»du:il:.  in  Spain, 
ich  may  endanger  then  safety,  and  is,  tlicy  al- 


s> 


l.ON'DOP POLITICAL   fr-ARTI*.^ 


lege,  n  cruel,  impolitic,  and  iUcriuable  lireach 
of  faith,  in  doing  tbb,  they  (the  opposition) 
give  ibe  real  publicity  to  those  paper*,  which 
otherwise  might  have  remained  as  effectually  hid- 
den cm  the  table,  as  if  they  had  been  still  in  the 
porifrfhtUfa  The  fact  is  that  ministers  in  their 
eagerness  to  shew  the  difficulties  they  had  to  en- 
counter in  Spain,  care  not  whom  they  mny  in- 
jure; and  the  opposition,  equally  eager  to  ren- 
der ministers  odious,  care  a*  little  about 
and  humanity. 

Were  wo  to  believe  the  reformers,  and  even 
the  whig*,  a  man  capable  ut  conducting  the  af- 
fairs of  the  state  with  honour  and  success,  can- 
not possibly  remain  lonf*  at  the  bead  of  tl*em. 
Instead  of  application  in  the  cabinet,  awl  solid 
qualities,  an  English  minister,  to  remain  mini- 
ster, must  liave,  essentially,  dexterity  in  debate, 
and  the  talent  of  intrigue  ;  qualifications  which 
do  not  imply  that  moral  reputation  necessary  to 
obtain  nml  preserve  the  confidence  of  foreign 
poweis ;  ami  frequent  wars  are  the  consequence. 
The  opposite  party  say*,  on  the  contrary,  that 
the  necessity  of  defending  day  by  day  in  Parlia- 
ment each  ministerial  measure,  requires  so  much 
talent,  and  so  much  knowledge  of  a  certain  sort, 
that  it  is  impossible  that  he  who  possesses  them 
should  have  no  other  j  that  these  perpetual  de- 
bate* oblige  them  to  consider  the  affiurs  confided 


LOKDOH  —  POLITICAL  rAP.Tll*, 


»9 


to  their  care  thoroughly,  and  id  every  possible 
light,  in  order  to  secure  themselves  from  disgrace 
and  ridicule,  the  fear  or'  which  is  tUe  most  power* 
fill  of'  stimulant*,  'flint  a  minister  thun  employ- 
er! hss\  it  is  true,  but  little  time  left  for  any  of 
the  details  of  his  department ;  but  those  are  en* 
t rusted  to  inferior  officers,  fitter  for  them,  who 
aw;  not  removed  at  every  cluing:  of  ministry, 
ami  have  foe  a  number  of  years  followed  the 
routine  of  their  business,  i  prefer  a  minUtet 
wlio  can  spare  only  one  hour  it-day  u>  dn  the 
UsttifteM  nf  the  state,  but  who  b  obliged  to  think 
of  it  and  debate  on  it  the  rest  of  the  day  and 
half  the  night,  to  the  minister?  of  some  other 
countries,  who,  to  use  the  expression  of  a  man 
who  knew  them  will,  "  at  renfermtrtt  fnmr  taiikr 
dm  ptumet"  and  when  they  come  out  oi  their 
retirement  think  only  of  their  pleasures.  When 
the  savages  of  North  America  bury  their  chiefs 
up  tu  their  necks  in  an  ant-hill,  make  them  un- 
dergo hunger  and  thirsL  and  other  torments,  il 
is  not  to  give  them  the  qualities  necessary  lor 
their  station,  but  in  order  to  ascertain  that  they 
possess  them  already. 

'litis  system  of  trials  and  combats  applies  no 
lea*  to  the  legislative  branch  of  the  government. 
The  exaggeration  of  the  debates, — the  obvious 
want  of  candour, — the  waste  of  time, — the  int- 
pnktM  disclosures— cannot  tail  to  shock  an  in- 


< 


90 


LONDON* — JUDGES  AND  JURY, 


liftcrent  spectator.     A  difficult  question  cannot 
investigated  properly  In  :i  numerous  assem* 

ily,  and  is  always  considered  with  BflftrtOCt  to 
party  views,  rather  than  with  a  sincere  and  un- 
mixed do*i  re  of  truth  ;  but  unfortunately,  were  it 
not  for  party  views,  the  investigation  would  nut 
attended  to  at  all.  The  most  inconsiderable 
individual  of  tuch  an  assembly  might  in  all  pro- 
bability decide  on  the  business  before  them  bet- 
ter, and  more  expeditiously,  if  he  pleated, — but 
thr  danger  is,  he  would  not,  for  want  of  suffici- 
ent inducement.  It  i«  thus  that  the  spirit  of  sys- 
tem in  science  is  useful,  however  extravagant  it 
may  !*•  ;  tlir  egotistical  zeal  it  inspires  leads  of- 
ten to  the  discovery  of  new  (acta;  establishing 
not  exactly  the  particular  system  of  the  author, 
but  something  much  better,  which  had  never  en- 
tered into  hi*  imagination. 

The  judicial  branch  of  government  is,  like  the 
others,  placed  in  the  arena,  or  on  the  stage.  Ex- 
aminations of  witnesses, — statement  of  the  ca*c» 
— law  arguments,— charge  of  the  judge  to  the 
jury, — verdict, — -judgment, — all  is  done  audibly 
and  publicly.  There  is  not  a  doubt  Lhat  die 
judge  could  inform  himself  of  the  merits  of  tint 
case  much  better  in  his  closet  than  amidst  the 
i  n  itee  and  hustle  of  a  court,  where  bo  many  things 
distract  his  attention, — on  written  slatcntents  of 
facts  and  documents,  tlian  on  vague  and  dcsul- 


XO.VDON — BOYAL  PREJIOCATIVE. 


»l 


lory  pleadings.  But,  in  that  case,  it  is  but  too 
likely  tliat,  instead  of  the  judge,  it  might  be  his 
secretary  who  would  have  to  do  all  tikis  ;  and 
that,  instead  of  examining  witnesses,  he  would 
examine  the  parties  themselves.  As  to  the  jury, 
it  it  clear  that  they  me  not  half  so  able  as  the 
judge  to  decide  cither  on  the  fact  or  oo  the  lav ; 
and  I  would  much  ratlicr  trust  to  him  than  to 
them,  if  these  were  the  only  qualifications  requi- 
red i  but  the  twelve  mcu  compoung  the  jury  arc 
placed  in  a  situation  of  which  habit  has  not  bi  uut- 
ed  the  sense  of  importance  and  of  moral  respon- 
sibility',— of  curiosity,— of  interest, — and  of  awe 
of  the  public  ;  and  the  judge  huusclf,  who  deli- 
very his  citargc  when  they  arc  going  to  retire  to 
their  box,  and  who  knows  that  so  many  eye 
upon  him, — so  many  cars  listening,— may  possi- 
bly give  them  very  dillerent  advice  from  thai  he 
would  follow  himself,  if  he  had  to  decide  alone. 


**  On  cd  »iut  micux  quoad  on  c*t  regard* 
L'icil  <lu  public  cat  I'Aif  uiUon  da  (loire,** 


The  highest  department  of  die  British  govern  - 
iucnt,  the  throne,  does  not  indeed  commit  its 
dignity  in  the  general  struggle;  and  if  exposed, 
as  well  as  the  other  branches,  to  the  eye  of  the 
public,  it  is  from  the  top  of  a  pedestal,  not  in  the 


J.ONnOV—  ItOk.iL   S'RRROCATIVC. 


voigar  crowd.  The  royal  person  it  here  a  tine 
hollow  statue,  in  which  the  priests  of  the  temple 
place  UicinscK  e 9  to  deliver  their  oracles.  He  aeti 
tmly  through  lus  ministers ;  they  arc  answerable* 
and  may  be  impeached  by  Parliament ;  liut  the 
King  himself  can  do  no  wrong ;  in  fact  he  can 
do  nothing*— not  even  alHx  his  royal  seal,  which 
is  in  the  keej*n#  of  the  chancellor.  The  King 
i  pre  me  magistrate,  but  he  does  not  admini- 
ster justice,  and  cannot  meddle  in  any  legal  pro- 
cesses, either  civil  or  criminal.  James  I.  hap- 
ir  ti>  iL-uast  At  sonic  great  trial,  tlie  judge  put 
him  in  mind  that  he  was  not  to  take  an  active 
part  in  it.  The  King  appoint*  the  judges,  but 
cannot  displace  them  without  impeachment  and 
trial,— nor  can  they  be  impeached  without  the 
concurrence  of  the  two  Houses.  The  House  of 
Lords  are  their  judge*-  Tlieir  salary  is  perma- 
nent; and  as  long  aa  they  do  their  duty,  that  is 
to  say,  as  long  ax  they  are  the  strict  organs  of  the 
law,  they  arc  as  independent  of  the  King  aod 
ministers  as  these  arc  of  the  judges  ;  and  this  Ls 
the  most  important  safeguard  of  public  liberty. 

The  King  L>  the  commander  in  chief  of  the 
army  and  navy ;  but  an  express  act  of  Parlia- 
ment is  necessary  to  establish  and  enforce  mar- 
tial discipline  in  the  army,  renewable  annually, 
and  the  array  is  disbanded,  ipso  facto,  at  the  end 


LOHDOX — TIOVAL  PREROGATIVE. 


";J 


of  every  year,  unless  continued  by  Parliament. 
'IV  discipline  of  the.  navy  is  «n  the  contrary, 
eslahJishisl  I iv  permanent  laws ;  but  there  «  no 
rtmey  to  pay  either  sailor*  or  soldiers  or  any 
hotly  else,  without  the  consent  of  Parliament. 

The  King  gives  title*  and  confers  dignities; 
lie  is  die  fountain  of  honour :— he  treats  with  fo- 
reign nations,  or  rather  his  minister*  do  in  hia 
name ; — he  in  the  head  of  the  church,-— that » to 
say,  that  he  convokes,  prorogues,  and  dissolves 
the  aswtnlaies  tit'  Uie  clergy ;  his  consent  is  ne- 
cessary to  render  their  acts  valid,  ami  lie  appoints 
bishops  and  archbishops; — he  has  die  power  of 
pardoning  critnmals,  but  cannot  exempt  them 
from  pecuniary  compensations  ;  and,  in  case  of 
murder,  it  the  widow,  or  the  nearest  relation  of 
the  deceased,  choose  to  prosecute,  the  roy=l  par- 
don is  not  admitted.  It  U  uncertain  w  hsjUssl  the 
31  it  of  pardon  extend*  to  the  cases  of  condemn- 
on  on  impeachment,  at  least  it  is  certain,  that 
die  King's  order  is  no  justification  of  the  act,  or 
thst  his  pardon  grunted  beforehand  does  not  stop 
the  prosecution.  Finally,  his  sanction  is  neces- 
sary to  all  laws  after  they  have  parted  tliu  two 
i  I .  uses  of  Parliament ;  but  there  has  not  been 
any  instance  of  a  bill  rejected  by  the  King  since 
uSeyear  l«ye,  under  William  III  ;  it  was  to  ren- 
der Parliaments  triennial,  The  majority  in  Par- 
liament i*  in  fact  the  sovereign;— no  money  with- 


LONDON — rOflLIGV  AMBASSADORS. 


out  its  consent  j— and  if  the  King  should  refuse 
to  aiinrtion  the  law*  pn&cd  by  that  majority,  the 
artn  of  government  mold  bo  at  once  palsied.  A 
majority  in  Parliament  must  then  be  obtained  ; 
and  that  is  done  by  means,  called  legitimate  and 
proper  by  one  of  the  parties  which  divide  public 
•pinion, — abominable  and  corrupt  by  the  other  •, 
.rally  there  in  so  much  to  say  on  both  aides, 
that  1  have  not  yet  made  up  my  mind  on  the 
subject, 

.Mr  Pitt  was  the  first  minister  bold  enough  to 
dtsaolvc  a  refractory  Parliament,  in  order  to  try 
the  temper  of  a  new  one, — and  it  succeeded  with 
him.  It  i*  a  serious  thing  for  a  member  of  Par- 
foment,  who  has  been  at  great  expencc  for  his 
election,  to  be  thus  sent  back  again  to  hes  con- 
stituents, to  take  the  sense  »/  the  people,  as  it  is 
called,  or  rather  to  go  again  through  the  trouble 
and  ex  pence  of  a  fresh  election.  This  expedient 
of  Mr  Pitt  is  something  like  running  tluough  the 
body  a  man  who  has  given  you  the  lie,  and  then, 
turning  to  the  rest  of  the  company,  the  sword 
still  reeking  with  the  blood  of  the  offender,  to 
ask  them  w  hat  they  think  now  of  your  veracity. 
We  have  here  a  Persian  ambassador,  who  fur- 
nishes a  good  deal  of  conversation  to  the  fashion- 
able world  ; — the  lad  tea  love  his  fine  black  beard, 
— his  broken  Knglish,  ami  odd  pood  humour. 
Hi*  pfvpot  are  much  repeated,     lie  complains 


LONDON— HGMTT  \  I  i . 


V* 


that  there  arc  none  but  old  women  in  England ; 
the  young  ones  not  being  so  much  in  company. 
He  Jikcs  r Jfttanpof  */,  »nd  exclaims;  "  Ah!  nice 
fat,  nice  fat \"  Of  a  pretty  woman  he  -aid,  *«S*V 
it  a  nree  Hi  Ik  fellow.*'  A  young  lady  was  sent  to 
sit  by  him  on  a  sofa,  and  talk  to  him  ;  the  con- 
versation being  exhausted,  and  he  perceiving  she 
was  tired,  or  being  so  himself,  said,  "  Now  my 
tr  it  ia  well, — you  may  go."  He  complains  of 
course  of  the  want  of  sun  *»  but  said,  tbc  other 
day,  at  an  audience  of  M  r  rcrccvnJ,  that  he  want- 
ed no  other  nm  titan  the  radiuiice  of  the  Grand 
i  r*s  face,  (a  grand  eastern  b)  |>erbole.)  Du. 
ruy%  the  Walcheren  business,  lie  took  it  for  ^iuiiu 
cd  that  the  heads  of  tike  ministers  would  be  ofll 
The  court  of  St  James's  docs  not  shine  at  present 
in  European  ambassadors ;  there  arc  but  two  or 
three,  including  the  one  from  the  United  Slates, 
-—but  it  las  three  uruhaved  ones,  this  one  of 
Persia,  the  Turkish  ambassador,  ami  a  Barbery 
envc. 

I  have  been  carried  to  one  of  the  hospitals  of 
great  town,  supported  by  voluntary  contri- 
is.  I  shall  relate  what  1  saw.  The  phy- 
sician, seated  at  a  table  in  a  large  hall  on  the 
ground-  Hoar,  with  a  register  before  him,  order- 
ed the  door  to  be  opened  *  u  crowd  of  miserable 
objects,  women,  pushed  in,  and  ranged  them- 
selves along  the  wall ;  he  looked  in  his  book. 


I .  LO.SD0N— HOSPITALS. 

and  culled  them  to  him  successively.  Soch  * 
!  The  poor  wretch,  leaving  her  wall,  crawled 
to  die  fable.  •*  How  is  your  catarrh  ?"  *  Please 
your  honour,  no  offence  I  hope,  it  it  the  asthma. 
I  hare  no  rcn  night  nor  day,  and"—-'  Ah,  so  it 
i*  an  asthma !  It  h  somebody  eke  who  haa  the 
catarrh.  Well,  you  have  been  ordered  to  take, 
Ac."—"  Ye*,  Sir,  Iwt  I  grow  worse  and  worse, 
and—" — n  That  is  nothing,  you  must  go  on  with 
it."— "  But,  Sir,  indeed  1  cannot."—'4  Enough, 
rnmrgh,  good  woman,  (  eanrmt  listen  to  you  any 
more  •,  many  patients  to  get  through  this  muni. 
ing, — never  do  to  bear  them  talk,— ^o,  and  ta*e 
your  draught,  &c." — The  catarrh  woman  made 
way  for  a  long  train  of  victim-*  or'  consumption, 
caws  of  fever,  dropsy,  scrofula,  and  some  disor- 
ders peculiar  to  women,  detailed,  without  any 
ceremony,  before  young  students.  This  mcfem- 
thuly  review  of  human  infirmities,  was  suddenly 
interrupted  by  the  unexpected  entrance  of  a 
largton,  followed  by  several  young  men,  carry- 
ing a  piece  of  bloody  rlesh  on  a  dish.  **  A  cu- 
rious case,"  they  exclaimed,  placing  the  dish  on 
the  table ;  u  an  ossification  of  the  lungs !  Such 
a  one,  who  died  yesterday,— just  opened.  This 
is  the  state  of  Iris  lungs.  See  these  white  needles, 
like  fish* bones,  shooting  through  here  and  there  ; 
— most  curioiiR  indeed."  Then  they  handled, 
and  cut  open,  and  held  up  between  the  eye  and 


LOSPOV— HOSPITALS, 


97 


light,  these  almost  palpitating  remains  c: 
creature  who  breathed  yesterday !  Tin.*  tymp* 
tom*  of  hi*  disorder,  and  the  ■rctffaataocd  of 
hi*  death,  wure  freely  talkril  over,  ami  accurate- 
ly described,  in  the  hearing  of  const  jwti- 
cnt*,who  felt,  I  daresay,  the  bony  needle*  j^rick- 
ing  their  own  lungs  at  every  breath  they  drew, 
i ml  itemed  to  hear  their  own  sentence  of  d 
pronounced* 

!  i  ■  1  patched*  twenty  or  thirty 
male  tpecues  came  in,  and  undcrwe.n  the  same 
sort  ol  summary  exwnhmtioa  rj  esse  I 

recalled  nas,  that  of  a  man  Alt!  with  vio- 

lent palpitations,  accompanied  with  great 
in  the  thoiddcr.     His  heart  was  felt  betting  lord 
through  the  tternura,  or  even  under  the  rib*  on 
the  right  tide.      Eitfl  heart  had  moved  from  its 
place! — The  unhappy  nun.  thrown  bock  Ofl 

•chair, — hi*  brcas*t  uncovered, — peb^sdestJi, 
— fixed  his  fearful  eyes  on  toe  physicians,  who 
Buecessifeljr  came  to  feci  tiie  pulsations  of  that 
faljnst,  and  reason  on  tin:  caiLir.  liny  str 
to  ii  to  jrej  unoag  then-selves,  thaL  the  heart 
had  been  pushed  on  one  side  by  the  augments* 
tion  ot  bulk  of  the  viscera  -f  and  that  the  action 
of  the  aorta  icded  thereby.    Thcca*cea> 

I  much  »,— but  no  great  app 

reasoned  long  od  the  cause* 

'-.  u 


$6    LONUOX itt»VlTAL& CONGJ1XVF.  ROCXETS. 

without  adverting  to  the  lemedy  till  after  the 

Mticnt  had  departed, — when  lie  aw  called  buck 

the  door,  and  cupping  prescribed  ! 

Trie  medical  men  proceeded  next  to  Writ  the 

resident  patients.    I  followed.    The  apartments 

clean  and  spacious,  ainl  the  rick  not  crowd- 

I,  which  is  no  doubt  of  the  greatest  importance. 

was  shocked,  howewr,  with  tin-  nunc  appear* 

iccc  of  iuseuhibility  and  precipitation. 


1.4  W  bag  ile  ees  Ita  ©A  front  le  mdbcor, 
Mm  Cm  mvmsrt  fh»  i|i*  J«  la  dvuknir, 

Z/ignoranoo  an  cuifrftnt  l*it  a  r.-.mlc  immittdtt 
L'indiflurcncn  oUvrvc  ol  Ic  hauirxl  decide- 


Tkcrc  is,  however,  more  indifference  Una  igno- 
rance here  ;  for  in  no  part  of  the  world  is  the  aft 
of  medicine  carried  farther  than  in  ixindon  ;  and 
without  being  at  all  qualified  to  judge,  the  mere 
rircuowtancc  of  this  art  and  those  who  practise 
being  so  much  more  respected  here  than  in 
France,  is  aufficjcnt  to  convince  roc  of  their  su- 
periority, hi  France,  surgery  is  honoured,  wliiie 
licioc  ie  slighted.  Moliere  has  much  to  an- 
for  this ;  and  if  Shakspcarc  had  taken  ft 
into  his  bead  to  laugh  at  phjricians,  tl-cre  is  no 
knowing  how  they  would  fare  in  England  at  this 
day. 

April  4. — Some  military  men  whom  we  saw 
lately  spoke  unfavourably  of  Congreve's  rockets. 
II. cy  arc  made  like  common  rockets,  only  of  an 


HON' — SIR  HUSTfS  BURD7TT. 


9» 


eno/mons  size.  The  cylinder,  or  ease  of  iron, 
contains  50  or  SO  pounds  df  pttWdofS  rammed 
hard,  and  the  fore-part  loaded  with  balls.  Tlir 
rocket  is  impelled  by  its  own  recoil.  It  b  held, 
in  the  first  instance,  by  a  pole  '20  or  25  feet  long, 
ng  in  the  proper  angle  like  a  mortur.  The 
pole  w  carried  away  by  the  rocket,  ami  keeps  it 
in  Its  proper  direction  tike  the  feather  of  ait  ar- 
row. But  when  the  wind  blows  strong  with  it,  or 
VuiewHc,  the  pole  or  tail  is  apt  to  steer  the  wrong 
course ;  and  t hi!  rockets  go  riglit  only  ugainut  the 
wind,  or  with  no  wind.  At  Flushing  they  steer 
rd  back  again  upon  (he  British  troops,  and  did 
more  harm  then  good*  At  Copenhagen  they  suc- 
ceeded perfectly,  and  then,  of  course,  did  more 
good  thnn  harm.  They  have  been  used  some- 
times in  Spain  with  great  effect.  As  a  proof  of 
their  doubtful  utility,  these  officers  remarked  that 
Buonaparte  had  not  as  yet  adopted  thecn. 

April  10.— London  has  been  in  the  greatest 
ferment  lor  the  last  four  days,  in  consequence  ttf 
the  vote  parsed  the  5th  instant  by  the  House  of 
mons,  for  the  imprisonment  in  the  Tower  of 
Sir  Francb  Burdett,  one  of  their  own  members, 
for  a  libel  against  that  House  publbJuid  by  him, 
which  is  an  offence  against  their  privileges.  From 
8th  tO  tin*  morning  of  the 
9th,  the  sergcant-at  arms,  with  the  order  of  the 
Home  in  his  hand,  anil  M  army  of  40,000  or 


i 


100 


lo.vdov — sin  fiiakcis  bukdkit. 


50,000  men  at  his  heels,  hesitated  whether  he 
should  force  open  the  door  of  Sir  Franci*,  who 
*ct3  at  defiance  the  order  of  hi*  colleagues,  and 
maintain*  they  have  no  right  to  ii  is  house. 

There  an-  dvbmoui  KOitanecsafauxnbeEtattett' 
ed  by  orders  of  tin-  BboSBb — a  power  which  seem* 
in  tact  ii)disi>ensab!e  to  die  the  tranquil- 

aml  tlic  existence  ot  that  Assembly ; — but 
BHOVC  -lance-    Tin*  question  there- 

in! .•  was,  how  fur  the  *ergcant-at-anns  could  go 
in  case  <■;  nice ;  and.  if  any  lives  had  been 

ii  forcing  the  house,  whether  it  would  have 
bl  in  :  nil  i  i-  Do  your  duty,  he  v.  .1  told  by  the 
Unnse  through  the  ipeaker.  Bui  should  I  kill 
any  body,  rejoined  the  sergeant,  may  J  not  be 
biDged  -— Wc  do  not  know  that;  but  go  on,  and 
the  law  nill  decide  afterwards.  The  scrgcant- 
at-arm*,  much  puttied,  applied  to  the  attorney- 
general,  and  other  law  authorities.  Their  doubt- 
ful answers  appeared  an  acknowledgement  that 
they  thought  UicmseUes  on  the  very  line  which 
>«[MBltlM  legitimate  from  arbitrary  power  and 
anarchy, 

During  this  interval,  the  populace,  always  hold 
against  tmiiditv  and  indecision,  took  part  foi 
Francis  j  and,  muBtcring  in  great  force  before  his 
booi  lowers  of  brick-bats  upon  those  pas- 

- < ...  ,  ■  i .1  n  on  fbo4  oc  ia  ( vdtgt  ■-.  who  neg- 
lected to  conform  to  certain  patriotic  ilt-uionstra- 


I.OXDOV 5IH  FRAVCIS   BU!:DE7T. 


101 


lion*.    At  night  tbcy  proceeded  to  tlic  houses  of 
the  members  whom  they  supposed  inimical  to  Sir 
da,  breaking  their  win;  ml  occasion- 

ally those  of  their  neighbour* ;  and  in  tfaeantour 
of  thoir  zeal,  mistaking  friends  for  lots  tliey 
broke  the  window*,  and  even  the  MOM  Mep%  of 
some  member*  in  the  opposition.  Sir  John  A — 
one  of  them.  The  Life  Guard*  were  grossly 
dtcd  ;  wounded  with  stone*  thrown  ll  them, 
and  by  frequent  falls  of  their  horses  on  the  smooth 
pavement.    At  last  the  scrgcant-atarms  tin 

inr,  penetrating  into  the  house,  partly  by 
force  and  partly  by  address,  secured  Uieir  primm- 
er, and  carried  him  to  the  Tower  in  n  carriage 
irti'.l  by  :i  -strong  detachment.    Tin's  drtjicii- 
tent  was,  on  it*  return,  saluted  with  freqiu 
>Ucys  of  brick-bats,  till  at  last  they  were  provo- 
ked to  fire,  anil  a  number  of  i  \h  were 
kille*                                                        wwe  unfor- 
•  lv  innocent  spectators. 
Neither  the  mhusterfl  mm  Sir  Francis  had  i 
bsWy  any  fixed  plan.     His  resistance  was  not 
foreseen  by  them  or                         grew  out  of 
cc  of  the  officer  employed  in  car- 
ii.     Hut  it  has  been 
the  ministers,   The  broken  windows, 
and  other  excesses  of  a  scnsele**  rabble,  and  the 
r  rievrs  of  some  lew  individuals,  suspected 
by  the  public,  have  disposed  the  indifferent,  the 


1 


10* 


LONDON— -JOHH  BILL. 


timid,  and  all  those  who  have  something  to  lose, 
to  aide  with  that  power  which  can  ailord  imme- 
diate protection  to  the  people  against  the  popu- 
lace. Walchcrcn  and  the  Parliamentary  reform 
are  quite  forgotten  ibr  the  present.  IT  Sir  Frun. 
had  ftuiTered  himself  to  he  carried  to  prison 
[uictly,  he  would  now  be  looked  upon  as  a  raax- 
■  of  patriotism,  instead  of  an  abettor  of  insur- 
-cction.  He  very  unadvisedly  dropped  the  cJm- 
•ter  of  an  oppress!  man  ;  and,  instead  of  synv 
ithy,  choee  to  inspire  fear  and  mistrust.  A  per- 
>»  of  experience  in  marine  insurances  has  often 
irecl  me,  that  he  found  assurer*  were  apt  to 
i(c  n  higher  premium  for  sea  risks  when  the  day 
hm  jtlurmy  than  in  fine  weather,  let  the  locality 
I'the  risk  he  ever  so  far  distant ;  and  that  mer- 
chants were  likewise  disposed  to  pay  more.  The 
idea  of  danger  once  awakened  in  the  mind,  its 
l  ■|iiiviik-itt  is e«ti muted  proportionably.  The  Bri- 
tish minister*;  will  find  John  Bull*  less  disposed 


*  Ttm  nicluuino,  which  tin?  Iingliah  have  adopted  lot  ihvni- 
■Mini  attnn—  of  i  «ruin  p^iulvrnuimcu  of"  body  awl 
mint), — pubnnra*  am]  tmhbornnc*  of  character,— and  omirajt* 
drvatnl  national :  but  really  that  portion  of  die  pooplo  I  m» 
i\j  '  -p  lha>  charflP  ol'  a  few  horse  ^ usidi,  looked 

>orc  like  o  rtncV  of  ihccp,  than  that  ficrra  animal, — their  cho- 
omhlem.    Ur  Atbuthnot,  I  bclieti'i  fcr»t  gave  to  lhat  nick- 
name j(i  general  currency. 


LONDON — RKJUT  OP  RESISTAKCE. 


108 


to  haggle  about  the  price  of  pergonal  security  ,— 
tanks  t<>  tht  i*obticsl  storm. 

Mr  Cobbrtt,  in  hi*  Political  Register  of  yester- 
day, wo*.ild  have  us  l>elieve  that  the  jwople  were 
unanimous  fox  Sir  Francis; — but  it  appeared  to 
uk  far  other* in1.  I  was  much  on  the  spot,  and 
obtecraj  UM>re  cniHMitv  than  earnestness  or  to* 
(•Mtt  among  die  crowd ;  and  I  think  it  very 
probable  tlui  the  taw  k-bat-iueu  were  not  many, 
and  that  the  same  individuals  acted  successively 
at  the  differ  eut  scenes  of  acliou.  The  iuatigu- 
ton  have,  upon  the  whole,  i>o  cause  of  triumph  > 
tbey  thought  the  moment  wa*  come  to  effect 
their  purpose;  they  have  tried  their  strength 
and  have  found  it  unavailing ;  put  in  the  scale 
tbey  liavc  proved  too  light ;  and  they  talk  of 
mr/i.'tf/  insurrection,  now  that  the  materia!  iiuuir- 
roctton  baa  failed. 

This  sort  oi  petite  guerre  between  the  govern- 
ment aud  the  people,  will  not  be  well  understood 
un  iIm:  continent.  Tumult  Is  iu>t  necestuirily  the 
indication  of  weakness,  and  the  very  struggles  of 
contending  powers  in  the  state  may  rather  shew 
the  efficacy  of  them  all.  English  history  fur- 
nishes precedents  of  just  and  successful  resist- 
ance to  the  government  on  the  part  of  tlio  peo- 
ple i  but  the  present  eircumstance*  arc  far  from 
ngeroua  remedy,  and  it  i*  not 
called  for  by  public  opinion. 


1U4 


—RIGHT  Of  RESISTANCE. 


The  doctrine  of  pmive  olxnlicncc  and  non- 
taiice,  and  its  contrary,  constitute  the  most 
difference  between  whigs  and  tones. 
TI  h  peal  and  delicate  question  is  presented  wi- 
de* Q  -vjiii]>Ii-  and  lun  inous  point  of  view,  Ity  n 
modern  F.u^lLiii  writer  of  much  reputation,  (Pa- 
kj.)    The  idea  of  a  social  compact  !  vs,  a 

fiction  ;  inch  a  compact  never  existed  ;  and  sup- 
posing the  lir«t  generation  of  men  to  have  agreed 
upon  one  among  themselves,  it  ffll  not  oldiga- 
on  the  succeeding  :-,.  hi  ration.  Every  indi- 
klual  come*  into  this  world  with  all  hi*  natural 
ghts  unalienated,  and,  strtcdy  speaking,  m  not 
obliged  to  ol>ey  laws  he  did  not  make.  It  us 
however,  expedient  to  Obey  the  laws  which  ate 
round  ready  eiulbl  .ml  which  cannot  well 

be  revised  and  conflmed  by  every  individual  of 
<  A\  succeeding  generation.  This  expediency 
ceased  when  the  order  of  things  violate*  the  safe- 
r J ,  the  liberty,  and  the  well-being  «»f  the  people  ; 
and  here  begins  legitimate  resistance, — but  who 
is  to  determine  the  expediency  ?  who  is  to  judge 
of  the  fitness  of  resistance  ?  Pale  y  answers, — every 
man  for  himself  at  hi*  peril!  This  is  bold  no  doubt, 
und, although  tin.-,  m i- lit  seem  W  prove  100  much 
ai  I  lit ;  for,  if  rcshUhCfe  b  successful,  it 

becomes  legitimate,  pralteworthy,  and  glorious 
-  not  succeed,  it  i*  criminal,  and  de- 
k'cathi       low  .    TI  Is  lends  to  •  distinction 


LONDON" BIGirr  OF  RCSrSTANCK. 


10* 


tiriweeu  moral  and  political  legitimacy.  It  i\ 
aapedieiu  that  revolutionist*  should  suffer  for 
their  ill  success  in  fcrrorcm*  or  there  would  be 
loo  many  revolution?, — the  distinction  between 
good  and  had  iiili-iit.ni.-  In-long*  to  a  higher  tri- 
bunal, in  a  better  world.  The  new  order  of 
things,  once  established,  should  be  maintained, 
if  it  secures  the  happioets  «>l  the  people,  without 
any  reference  to  the  nawH  by  which  it  was  pro- 
duced ;  tor  the  punishment  of  the  usurper  n 
fall  on  the  people,  and  lead  to  new  violence  and 
enormities.  Ho  uppronehi*?,  without  uis- 

pecbiqg  itf  the  expression  of  the  above  just  and 
liberal  sentiments,  in  the  following  lines  ol  Cn  aa, 
dictated  as  they  are  by  the  most  servile  adulation : 

Tom  cr»  crimen  dV  CM  qu'un  fait  pour  h  0 

Lc  cicl  nout  en  nbnoul  alora.quW  nm»  Indonne. 

Et  dao»  lc  rang  were,  otl  **  bve'ir  i*a  D 

Lc  pa«t-  devient  juue,  ci  L'mcnir  permit 

Qui  jimn  y  partcnir  no  peut  *trc  coupablr, 

Quoiqu'iF  wt  fail,  ou  (hue,  U  I  <'jIc» 

Hwm  lui  dc-vnn*  n*>«  btoa .  no*  jom«  tont  on  m  main  \ 

lv.  jaiuai*  on  ii'j  droit  *ur  ceux  <Iu  MuTrndn. 

I  Bra,  bo  ihookd  btwvc, — this  princi- 

ple is  a  two-i  word,  equally  their  safeguard 

and  danger,  and  although  Corneillo  might  say 
truly,  M  ipmlp/U  Mfiif*—%i qw^tifis*cn  was 
going  too  far. 

dprii  is. — There  was  yesterday  a  meeting  of 
the  electors  ofWeitmmatcr,  legally  convened  Foj 


106 


I.OKD0X  —  BRITISH  JIU6ECM. 


the  purpose  of  petitioning  Parliament  for  the  li- 
beration of  their  representative.  Sir  Francis  Bur- 
den, and  new  disorders  were  apprehended.  The 
language  ut  like  |*4iltoii  n  certainly  violent.  And 
in  iiict  a  mere  vehicle  far.  rude  tltnwWh  and 
abuse  of  the  House  o£  Commons  •»  but  the  meet- 
ing  was  peaceable,  and  all  tin's  will  end  in  a  war 
of  woids.  To  hear  the  noise  which  is  made,  it 
roighl  l>e  Hup|KMcd  that  the  wliole  civd  machine 
vm  going  to  falUo  pieces;  but  at  the  height  of 
rt,  certain  established  forms  interpose,  and  by 
lu.rtut/c  the  p:t&Hiun.%  prevent  irrrgular  and  vio- 
:nl  proceedings.  This  government  ig  a  system 
ofcliccks  and  counterpoises ;  the  great  aim  seems 
to  be  retarding  the  motion,  and  giving  time  for 
taggc  ration  and  irritation  of  parties  to  sub- 
>i<le,  aiul  from  alt  the  various  impulses  to  form  a 

Jtf  ami  a  moderate  one.  As  wheels  arc  clog- 
down  hill,  not  to  prated  tlu-  carriage  de- 
scending, but  to  avoid  its  bciog  precipitated, — 
the  object  is  to  arrive  safely  at  the  bottom,  but 
not  to  fall  ll. 

There  is  now  light  and  length  of  day  sufficient 
to  see  the  sights  of  this  capital.  We  have  begun 
by  the  British  Museum.  The  building  is  disposed 
round  a  fiat  coutt,  and  in  very  good  taste-  You 
have  to  wait  in  die  hall  of  entrance  till  fourteen 
other  visitors  arc  assembled,  for  the  rule  b,  that 
fifteen  persons  are  to  be  admitted  at  one  time, 


LONDON' BRITISH    MUSEUM. 


107 


neither  more  nor  less.  This  number  coropl. 
a  German  cicerone  took  charge  of  us,  and  led  in 
mu  fas  tie  charge  through  a  number  of  room*  full 
of  suiifcd  birds  ami  animals; — many  of  them 
seemingly  in  a  state  of  decay.  Wc  had  a  glimpse 
of  arms,  dresses,  and  ornament*  of  savage*  hung 
around  ;— -of  a  collection  of  minerals  -f — next  of 
aniiijuilrea  from  Herculaneura  and  l'ompcia  and 
snonatrous  Egypt.  We  remarked  a  treble  in- 
scription on  a  large  block  of  dark  porphyry, 
brought  from  Kosctta;  one  ■  in  hieroglyphics 
one  in  the  common  language  of  Egypt,  and  one 
in  Greek  j — all  three  saying  the  same  thing  serve 
a*  a  glossary  to  each  other.  This  stone,  and  w 
vcral  large  sarcophagi,  and  numerous  statues, 
and  basso-relievos,  belonged  to  the  French  col- 
lection which  fell  into  t':ic  hands  of  the  British 
in  1801.  The  last  and  most  valuable  acijuiMtiom 
arc  the  Greek  and  lioman  marbles  brought  from 
ItaJj  by  MrTownley.  The  merit,  however,  of  a 
considerable  part  of  these  marbles  consist*  mostly 
of  their  tieing  undoubtedly  antique.  Among  the 
manuscript,  wc  observed  in  the  catalogue  4.1 
volumes  of  Icelandic  literature,  presented  by  Sir 
Joseph  Banks,  who  visited  thai  singular  idand 
40  years  ago, — 4-1  volumes  of  decisions  of  the 
commissaries  who  nettled  the  boundaries  of  pro- 
perties ailer  Uie  great  fire  of  London,  which 
destroyed  4O0  streets,  and  13,000  houses  says 


9       LO.VUOK — Kfim  MUSEUM — PICTURES. 

Hume,  iii  1606*     The  damage  was  estimated, 

at  the  lime,  at  L.  10,716,000  sterling,  equal  to 

L.C  V>Ofi/XXl  sterling  now.    The  city  wni  leffc  a 

vast  plain  of  rubbish.  We  noticed  also  an  otigi 

nal  deed  of  tome  land  (o  a  monastery,  dated  Ro- 

i,  Anno  Dom.  572,  written  on  the  papyrus ; 

and  die  original  of  Magna  Charts*     We  hail  no 

mine  any  thing;  our  con- 

dnctoc  poshed  on  without  minding  question*,  or 

unable  to  answer  them,  but  treating  the  com- 

i'niv  V/hh  double  ffrrtmehvs  and  witticisms  un  va- 

I  subjects  of  BatUltJ  history,  in  ,\  style  of 

vulgarity  and  impudence  which    I  should  not 

i  haw  iiu't  in  Uiis  place,  and  in 

this  country." 

w 

Tlic  paintcxi  ceiling* on  the  stair*  and  hall*  arc 
very  fine,  by  La  ■>,  Monoycr, — 

all  turcignarti*H ;  for  the  fine  arts  were  but  little 
i  ultivaicd  in  Kngland  at  tfai  time  Am  building 
was  erected,  (19800  by  the  first  Dnkc  of  Mon- 
tagu. The  DUMSUV)  owe*  ibi  origin  to  the  collcc- 
tion  of  Sir  Hans  Sloanc,  bequeathed  to  l*arlia- 
mciit,  on  condition  thai  hi  I  family  should  receive 
IvfcO.UOO  sterling,  for  srhel  rati  COfil  hun  more 
L$o,o0O,  and  the  labour  ui'many  yean*  1  i«; 


•  I  tin  informal  ihm  a  ^reai  ui:p>"oveni©i»i  look  yUcc  won 
after  wc  ntev  l1  loir  (hewn  mIM 

mar*  conwmcrtly. 


_ 


LOXDOX — BRITISH  MUSEUM — ?tCTCR2S.       100 

died  in  1753  ;  and  the  Museum  was  opened  to 
(fac  public,  tlie  Grat  lime,  in  Anuu  »trin 

■_:s  purchased  fot  that  purine  It 
has  received  continual  accessions  since  that  time 
hy  donation*  and  purchase* ;  fart: 
collection  of  Sir  William  Hamilton,  cirtting 
L.84O0  i  of  Mr  Charles  Townley'ft  in  IS05,  cost, 
ing  L.aOjOOO|  the  library  of  I-ord  Oxford,  pur- 
chased fxo'iu  I  v.  far  L.  10,000,  rich  in  nu  ■ 
nuscriptAB  and  known  liy  tin  name  i>f  the  Hnr- 
leiau  library, — ihc  Cotloniau  library,  a  bcuuc.it, 
and  several  others 

We  have  spent  a  whole  morning  at  Mr  Hope'*, 
vriio  liai  a  magnificent  collection  of  ptciurca;  a 
week,  or  a  mouth,  would  baldly  be  sufficient  to 
gfltumf  and  even  then  it  would  be 
necessary  to  guess  at  some  of  them,  from  their 
had  situation ;— h  ide  ul    "■■">  apartment 

being  covered  with  pictures  light  or  no  light. 
Wc  have  becq  much  struck  v.itli  the  plague  of 
Allans  by  N.  touuiaj  the  coop        .,  Uie 

ckapiogi  the  colouring,  the  glusily  li^ht,  all  con- 
cur to  tin1  mmhq  coo* — all  horribly  beautiful.  In 

the  uiulilk'  of  llir  pirtuif,  a  famished  child  i- 
sucking  his  dead  mother  I  The  dead  and  the  il .  - 
ing  lie  about  in  heaps,  grouped  with  a  t 

lity  of  tmagii         i      Xhi   prevailing  ti 
Poujbui's  coli  '   is  generally  a  sort  of  dusky 

I,  which  I  do  uot  like,  but  here  it  viiiu 


:    I 


Ml 


LONDON — PICTURES — KAPIIA&L. 


lolgtCt  I  remember  with  pleasure  several 
good  Vnn  l>y<V*  of  great  beauty,  particularly 
■ftlie  ileal  h  nl  \  !;;iin.  On  t lit?  sunond  story, 
'.bcapc  of  (Maude,  soft,  warui,  anil  goldtt  ; 
several  others  of  tlic  same  artnt  appeared  to  me 
much  inferior, — the  treea  particularly  lumpy  and 
hard,  and  the  light  precisely  the  reverse  of  the 
golden  hoe  9  I  landscape  of  Roth  pleased  me 
more.  A  fine  Dorninichino  (Suzaniu).  Several 
good  Carlo  Maratti.  An  excellent  Caracct,  and 
a  wretched  landscape  by  the  same,  although  not 
unlike  in  composition  to  a  veiy  pretty  picture  of 
lsubcy  and  hb  Bmrily  la  tlic  Galcrie  da  Iffirwrfj 
Such  Rubens'  as  I  have  seen  here  are,  as  every- 
where, ill  drawn,  gainlily  coloured,  the  expres- 
sion always  low.  I  would  except  a  good  picture 
of  the  delude  by  that  arti»t-  A  rtorm,  hy  Rem- 
brandt, of  the  truest  and  grandest  effect.  Agar 
by  Lc  Sueur,  very  good.  Several  landscapes  of 
j^cat  merit  by  Roloyi  soCarlo  Dolce;  one 

excellent,  the  other  bad. 

I  cannot  recover  from  the  surprise  I  have  felt 
on  seeing  Raphael's  pictures  hard  like  cut.  tin  ; 
always  the  WM  Mndona  expression,  or  r.-t 
absence  of  expression,  and  tlien  iu  the  back 
ground  indigo  landscape*,  with  trees  like  brooms. 
Raphacl  was  not  a  landscape  painter,  it  :$  true  ; 
bufl  then,  why  introduce  landscapes  at  all,  and 
not  perceive  tliat  they  were  so  bad  :j  I  have  had 


LONDON'— PiCTCnn*. 


m 


ri»e  courage  to  confess  all  this  heresy  to  a  pro- 
fond  coAnoixjear,  who  comforted  mc  with  an  as- 
surance, that  the  pictures  of  which  I  compl.v; 
were  before  Rapliacl's  gotnl  manner,  and  as,  Ra- 
phael at  he  is,  be  must  have  been  a  bad  painter 
before  he  wsi  the  very  best  that  ever  was,  I  feel 
a  liltlo  reconciled  with  myself  :.<r  the  prevent. 
Leonardo  da  Vinci  elsarma  me  with  hrs  transpa- 
rent shadows  and  perfect  fanning,  without  being 
cold  or  hard.  Although  something  older  than 
Raphael,  his  pictures,  with  their  three  centuries, 
are  as  fresh  as  rf  ihry  iiad  been  paint  rd  yester- 
day. It  i«  said  of  him,  that  he  carefully  prepa- 
red his  L-riours  himself;  as  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds 
did,  but  \vith  a  very  different  success.  Leu,  who 
IjjiI  called  him  to  his  court,  conceived  a  con- 
tempt for  him  from  that  circumstance,  and  Ra- 
phael succeeded  Leonardo  da  Vu  n.  who  left 
his  unworthy  proteetor.  Mr  Hojhms  particularly 
rich  in  rlemtsb  pictures,  executed  by  the  best 
masters  for  that  family  of  princely  merchants 
during  the  last  TOO  years  ;  they  have  never  been 
in  any  other  hands,  and  are  in  high  preserva- 
tion,— most  of  them  arc  wonderfully  beautiful, 
and  very  few,  if  any,  participate  m  the  vulgarity 
of  taste  and  subjects  peculiar  to  that  school.  I 
shall  name  a  few;  only.  St  John  in  tin-  di  pert,  by 
Brcenberg ;— not  at  all  a  desert,  yet  a  fine  pic- 
ture. Van  Huysen,  very  fine.   Bcrghcn,  a  great 


LONDON— PlCTUflES — AUCTIONS. 


composition  of  rocks,  and  cfreet*  of  liffht.  (jc- 
ird  Dow,  a  domestic  scene,  exqtrisiteljr  finished. 
Polcmbcrg,  graceful  and  light  trees  rimJ  female 
precisely  the  reverse.  Hm^n,  hit  gar- 
den Hi  Eden  b  a  mere  menagerie,  where  birds 
and  beasts  art  crowded,  but  not  grouped  toge- 
ther,—the  colouring  a*  gnxuiy  D  possible.  Bart. 
»  higbl^fioaabed  lews.     Woe: 

huge  pictures,  d.  live game.  Thcsiib- 

rlainly  not  very  itttflkMiikg,  and  yet  1 
never  seen  any  thing  motv  able,  not 

only  for  the  high  finish,  which  is  such  as  to  dis- 
tinguish the  vrrv  down  of  the  leathery  a  hair,  a 
Idmle  of  gras«  ;  but  for  the  vigour  of  effect,  as  a 
hole,  the  originality,  the  .simplicity,  the  truth 
of  tttiitiile,  of  motion,  of  composition.  When 
look  near,  the  details  appear  to  hawe  been 
ic  principal  object  and  great  aim  of  the  artist ; 
..  i.il  all  is  freedom  and  bold  fnwcUcas, 
the  b .'i culing  deer  seems  starting  from  the  can- 
vas. Hinsdale**  landscapes  arc  cold  and  black, 
..ml  yi-i  iK'Huiiiul.  Woavataan  introduce*  al- 
ways it  seems,  a  wliite  horse  in  his  pictures  * 
there  is  at  Mr  Hope's  a  white  horse,  par  i 
fc«r,  full  o\  flue  ami  impatience  at  the  sound  of 
the  war  trumpet. 

A  collection  of  picture «,  of  some  reputation 
(Mr  Wsish  PorteiV)  is  for  sale,  at  Chii*  >•'<■— 
but  I  saw  not  lung  there  half  so  worthy  of  atten- 


LONDON* — Al'CriOVA. 


MS 


(ion  as  die  auctioneer  himselC  It  U  a  recei 
tiling  here,  that  a  person  of  that  profession  u  to 
|day  the  burrbon,  aod  amuse  bis  customers  with 
exaggerated  and  fantastical  descriptions  ot  the 
things  be  oilers  lor  Kale,  odd  digressions,  and 
burlesque  earnestness,  particularly  when  be  deals 
in  objects  ot'  taste,  of  no  very  definable  value,  as 
china,  pictures,  antiques,  &c.  What  he  says  does 
not  persuade  any  body ;  it  is  not  meant  to  be 
believed,  but  merely  to  amuse  the  crowd  of  rich 
idlers  who  go  there  to  kill  time,  and,  being  there, 
buy,  what  they  might  not  otherwise  have  thought 
of  buying, — pre*  the  mountebanks  at  lairs 

at  tract  the  populace.  These  have  a  politer  au- 
dience to  entertain,  and  need  more  refinement 
in  their  jokes,  and  really  shew  sometimes  a  good 
deal  of  humour,  and  strokes  of  real  wit.  It  must 
be  owned,  that  the  anxious  solicitude  of  ama- 
teurs about  trifles,  the  importance  they  attach 
to  certain  conventional  bssttttaa  and  merits  of 
their  own  creation,  and  which  none  but  the  ini- 
tiated in  the  mysteries  of  taste  can  discover  %  the 
little  tricks  tbey  practise  against  each  other,  in 
pursuit  of*  their  common  game,  and  mautzuzres 
of  various  sorts,  arlbrd  ample  field  to  ridicule, 
sad  materials  to  amuse  the  amateurs  at  '.heir  own 
expencc.  Footc.  who  wrote  farces,  and  played 
in  them  with  equal  success,  drew  for  the  stage 
a  dilettante  auctioneer  from  nature  \  the  wit, 
voj..  i.  n 


II* 


LMXKC— THK  Of'!'**. 


general  application  ot  the  satire,  has  tunri- 
[d  the  mere  personal  miraickry  intended ;  a* 
the  'Jartutw  of  Moliere,  (if  i  uuv  l>e allowed  to 
compare  these  two  writers)  remains  an  iisO— |*j. 
rablc  picture  of  hypocrisy,— u-Kiie  the  original 
who  vat  for  the  portrait  is  forgotten. 

Another  collection  has  been  sold,  that  of  Mr 
Own  Ufa  The  object  of  this  connoisseur  was 
to  exhibit  the  progress  of  the  art  from  its  origin, 
by  a  aerie*  of  jnctures  of  successive  ages ;— many 
were  very  bad.  but  it  was  at  least  aa  acknowled- 
ged consequence  of  his  pJair. 

We  lure  joat  seen  Madame  Catalan*  j — she  ia 
rt  bewitching  creature,  and,  notwithstanding  oar 
high  expectations  she  has  exceeded  them.  Her 
voice,  which  is  strong,  dear,  and  harmonious, 
and  produred  without  rllnrt  or  contortions,  is 
the  least  of  her  attraction*.  Hie  grace  and  the 
modesty  of  her  appearance,— the  rwiiWr,— the 
archness  of  her  smile,  tender  and  playful  at  the 
same  lime,  charmed  us  stiU  more  than  her  voice. 
Dea  Hayes  and  Vcstri*  are  winged  Mercuric*; 
this  Vcstris  is,  however,  said  to  be  inferior  to 
the  otltcrs.  Some  of  my  countrymen  have  aasu- 
Mfj)  in  ronfulence,  that  he  would  not  be  en- 
<i  at  Pari* ;— -it  may  be  so,— I  have  not  had 
tin-  honour  of  being  lately  at  Paris.  The  Opcra- 
houae  of  LofidOfl  is  like  all  the  theatres  I  have 
Keen  in  Ktighud,  in  tiie  i>hape  of  a  hcrse-ahoe. 


1 1 UK Oi'En.l-UODSI. 


115 


The  sade-boxes  are  til  turned  to  w,  Mid  the 
Irani  aors  too  far  to  bear.  Hie  height  of  the 
k  so  great  that  the  voice  is  lost.  It  teems 
that  ibe  atmicircutor  shape  should  not 
occurred,  or  should  not  have  been  adopted. 
Each  spectator  would  iiave  the  acton  precisely 
in  front  or  him,  and  at  a  neaa  distance  cental  lor 
ail.  Such  a  tlicatrr  would  moreover  contain 
more  spectators.  1  would  lower  the  ceiling  one- 
third  at  least,  dispensing  with  the  two  upper  tier* 
ut'  boxes,  it  would  ih*  a  very  >utati  peciiniarv 
aacrifice, — this  fai^h  regiou  lieinjr  always  bur 
tlxisuy  tilled,  and  by  spectators  whose  pi-*. 
or  behaviour  at  least,  is  either  a  great  scandal, 
or  very  aaeoavemetrt ;— ibat  U  to  say,  in  the  sioV- 
gaUcrics,  certain  ladies,  who  earn  on  their  trade 
quite  openly,  selling  and  de4mirUig  the  article* 
tbey  deal  in  trader  the  eye  of  the  ,  and 

with  a  degree  of  shame  lc«*  run*  tor  whit  li  the  in 
habitants  or  OtabcJtc  alone  run  ftamiftl  My  pre- 
cedent.    That  part  of  the  upper  region  which 
its  the  ttta^e  is  occupied  I  iiulnrcnr, 

more  noisy  sort  of  peoplu  j  sailors  footmen, 
tradesmen  and  their  wive*  and  ruistreflse*, 
who  enjoy  bSerasdve*,  drinking,  whistling,  howl- 
ing a*  much  as  rliey  rj4ea*c.  These  gotfa,  lor  so 
they  are  called  from  their  clevnted  station,  which 
t»  in  I*rancerlc«KMriinated  thc/je/W.'A,  ti**nnc  the 
lrigh  prerogative  ot  hwffng  uVHPJl  their  tin: 


ui 


LONDON — COVfiXr-GAIUJEN  UlOrs. 


on  both  actors  and  spectators  in  the  shape  of 
nut- shell*,  core*  of  apples,  and  orangc-pccl.  This 
innocent  amusement  has  always  been  considered 
in  Kngland  as  a  sort  of  rxi.lu  i.uh*  of  liberty,  of 
which  it  is  well  to  hwrfi  a  little  too  much,  to  be 
IQK  that  you  have  enough.  Some  persons  com- 
plain even  that  the  god*  arc  become  much  too 
le  and  tractable,  and  like  the  French  tenants 
of  the  parodist — a  good  thing  in  itself,  but  a  bad 
omen.  Surprised  to  Bee  centinek  with  fixed  bay- 
onets at  all  the  aveuues  of  the  playhouse,  I  in* 
i[uircd,  whether,  in  ease  of  disorders  and  vio- 
eooei  tl>«se  Milder*  might  make,  use  of  their 
arms.  By  no  meaua,  I  was  told.  A  murder  by 
bayonet  would  be  like  any  other. — Why  than 
bayonets  ?  Is  it  to  accustom  the  people  ta 
the  sight  of  the  thing  before  it  is  used  i 

The  former  turboh  m -e.  of  the  lower  ranks 
seems  to  have  reached  the  upper.  Tl*cre  were, 
souk:  months  ago,  certain  riotous  proceedings, 
which  shook  the  very  foundations,  if  not  of  the 
state,  at  least  those  of  the  playhouse.  As  it  was 
before  our  arrival,  J  only  speak  from  hearsay. 
The  manager  of  the  Theatre- Royal  of  Coveut 
Garden  had  become,  it  seems,  guilty  of  two 
crjaies  of  tot  partem  .-  first,  of  having  raised  the 
prices  a  little,  under  pretence  of  their  being  no 
higher  than  in  the  reign  oi'  Queen  Anne,  al- 
though  every  thing  else  bad  risen  threefold ;  sc- 


LOXDOK — COVEST.O\BDEK  RIOTS. 


117 


condlj,  of  having  let  some  boxes  by  the 
Tlic  pit  demanded  the  restoration  of  thil 
the  old  fooling.  The  manager  insisted ;  the  pit 
hawed,  and  made  a  noise  ever}'  night ;  the  dh 
tmliauce  inereascd  in  violence j  nobody  wei 
but  the  Guelft  and  GhibeUn*.  Tlie  pit  faction 
took  the  name  of  O.  1\  (old  prices.)  Some  ii 
dividual.*,  who  had  gone  farther  than  the  othi 
were  arrested.  The  resentment  of  die  O.  P.' 
knew  no  bounds  ;  and  they  proceeded  one  nighl 
to  the  entire  demolition  of  all  that  was  dcroolii 
able  hi  tbc  interior  of  the  homr, — luscrc*,  scats, 
riuliioiM,  violins  hose  and  counterbas^&e.  Some 
persons  were  again  arrested  by  the  officers  of  po- 
lice, (no  bayonets ;) — the*:  were  young  men 
good  families,  and  all  of  them  above  the  common 
people,  who  took  no  share  in  all  this.  These  gen- 
tlemen had  to  pay  the  fiddlers  ,  but  the  mana 
•it nation  waa  not  (he  better  for  that.  Hi 
had  to  yield,  after  having  held  out  six  weeks ; 
and  was  obliged  to  a*k  pardon  for  having  don* 
what,  he  hail  a  right  to  do,  and  for  (a*  ti»  toe  pri- 
vate boxes*)  what  was  no  loss  to  the  public,  as 
they  were  the  worst  places  in  the  whole  house ; 
but  lite  public  thought  they  saw  in  it  that  aris- 
tocratic pride  which  wants  to  be  apart  from  the 
multitude.  The  contagion  spread*  and  ran  the 
rottnd  through  the  country  theatres.  The  O.  P/s 
committed  the  same  depredation*  rvrrywhere, 


and  had  to  pay  for  them  at  in  London,  but  gnin- 
ed  tl»c  vi<  tin  v  n\rr  the  nianngcrs- 

Thi*  despotism  of  the  p«btk*  nw  tlsme  who 
admintiier  to  their  rrleasare**  is  the  nme,  I  l>e- 
lieve,  all  over  Europe.  The  actors  arc  every 
whifc  caponed  to  contirmely  and  iwolt ;— treat- 
ed with  dii/especl,  they  cannot  he  respectable. 
Voltaire,  who  discovered,  siKty  years  ago,  Ute 
Britannic  isles,  •  or  *t  least  taught  the  Fiench 
something  of  the  manners  of  the  people  and  of 
their  litrr.i't.-rv,  made  them  believe  that  come- 
dian* and  their  art  were  honoured  there.  It  » 
;hi  error.  Garricfc  might  be  so  in  his  time,— 
Mrs  SEddons  and  the  Kcrnble  family  are  so  now, 
— btrt  tbtw  nrc  only  exceptions ;  and  it  »  not 
very  probable  that  the  English,  who  pay  the  art% 
but  are  accused  of  despising  artiste  in  general, 
Id  bv  down  their  prfdc  in  favtxir  of  actor*. 
Many  actresses  have  been  married  by  ^rentle- 
men,  aitd  even  noblemen,  and  some  of  them  were 
not  undeserving  oflheir  good  fortune.  In  France 


*  To  bv  writer,  s*j»  Lord  Holland,  in  hit  Life  of  Lope  dc  U 
nOU*"^  iliu£ugli>1i  .'  (urilirir  i.inivia  irance.aod 

all  over  Europe,  m  lo  Voltaire.  No  critic  ever  employed  more 
<dt,  Higtiiukv,  am!  diligence  In  fnrtnrn^  Iltrrtrv  inUrrcnnrv- 
11*  tnerwie*  Mul4  nmu*<J*  ua  On*  such  cvatemooe  •!'  wu 
>mptk*  «*■»  <*  tflUftmumoti;  cut  they  only  *»c&:c*d  in  •iiowiii^ 
thai  n  rant  of  nit  docs  ac-t  imply  an  exuberance  of  tnfotmn- 
tiofi. 


LOHDOM COVEHT-GAJIPEH. 


lis 


ilii*  we*  IMA  done.     English  iudqicruk-ncc  du- 
dains  the  sanction  of  custom,  either  tu  clu  nght 
or  to  <io  wrong  ;  and  rules  of  cutklucc  admit  oi 
much  more  latitude  here  tlum  in  Franco,  where 
individual  diameters  are,  fa)  a  great  measure,  all 
east  in  the  would  which  belongs  to  tlieir  reapec- 
tiro  rank*  in  society.     This  origiuality  b  said  to 
wear  oil  in  England,  and  it  would  be  a  matter  or 
regret;   for.  although  not  without  in 
encca,  it  is  a  most  valuable  quality.      The  beat 
specie*  oi  It  uit  arc  apt  to  degenerate-  in  the  eourxr 
of  disc ;  and,  a*  they  were  originally  obtained 
by  happy  accidenu,  and  were  the  spontaneous 
production  of  a  wild  stock,  ic  is,  after  all,  on  the 
nursery  of  tree*  raised  (spa  tin-  kernel  tJ»t  hopes 
arc  to  rent  for  new  varieties    Europe  runs  some 
risk  of  becoming  Chinese,  and  retaining  no  other 
dwtineUom  of  character  than  tlfcoae  of  rank  and 
situation,  or  no  oilier  moral  qualities  than  secav 
nod  decorum. 
[t  it  not  easy  for  women  to  procure  proper 
place*  at  Covent- Garden.   A  box  »  taken  a  fort- 
night beforehand  by  people  favoured  by  the  box- 
kecper  *  they  till  their  box  if  the  playbill  of  the 
day  suita  them  •,  if  not,  ihey  leave  it  empty,  or 
occupy  only  a  few  scat* :  And,  as  you  pay  only 
on  entering,  uud  not  ut  die  time  oi' engaging  tlic 
box,  there  is  no  risk  in  taking  it  tbua  beforehand* 
Aftrr  the  first  act,  tlie  public  has  a  right  to  any 


LONDO.V— COV£SCT-OA«l>l  S. 

int  box  or  seats ;  but  it  is  clear  that  all  those 
•echo  lure  not  interest  with  tfic  box-keeper  lave 
tlO  cftWIOC  tor  .icats  when  they  lire  worth  laving. 
Hnving  oliscrved  that  the  second  tier  of  boxes 
ns  filled  by  decent  person*,  1  thought  myself 
►rtunatc  in  having  got  one  there,  and  believed 
could  fill  it  cttriry  |  but  I  have  been  laughed 
at  foe  my  ignorance.  Theae  boxes  I  n»ve  been 
told,  arc  not  bad  company, — but  arc  not  good 
company.  Fashionable  people  do  not  go  to 
them ; — citizen*  and  tradesmen,  with  their  wives; 
— and  a  lady  may  find  herself  by  the  side  of  her 
mantua-maker.  This  is  like  Sancho  in  his  go- 
vernment, when  every  dish  he  wanted  to*  taste 
Eared  under  the  wand  of  the  doctor.  Go. 
5  to  the  play  is  not  a  habit  with  anybody  bete ; 
in  fact  unfashionable :  bat  London  is so  large, 
and  the  theatres  so  few,  that  they  are  always  fill  1. 
Paris  lias  twenty-three  theatres ;  London  four  or 
five,  and  these  shut  up  part  of  the  year.  The  hour 
uf  dining  is  precisely  that  of  the  play,  which  is 
another  considerable  obstacle.  We  have  only 
found  means  of  K°ing  twiee  to  Coveut-Gmilei), 
and  once  to  the  Lyceum.  The  plays  we  saw  are 
all  modern:  The  Free  Knights,  Fty  by  Night, 
Speed  the  Plough,  The  Afarnac,  and  Hit  cr  Miss. 
I  shall  give  some  account  of  these  plays,  that  my 
foreign  readers  may  know  something  of  the  F.ng- 
Mi  theatre. 


to 


LONDON — ENGLISH  I'LATS. 


121 


Hy  b\f  Night.*  General  Bastion  is  living  at 
house  in  Uk  country,  with  his  daughter  and 
after,  who  rules  the  iatnily.  The  General,  who 
Imt  his  agiit  in  the  ware  thirty  year*  ago, 
spends  his  time  in  fighting  lux  batik1*  over  again  ; 
the  sister,  in  reading  the  newspaper*  and  watch- 
ing her  niece,  whom  she  intends  to  marry  to  a 
man  of  her  own  choice,  expected  that  very  even. 
ing,  while  the  niece  loves  another.  An  officer 
wtth  a  wooden  leg  is  announced,  under  the  name 
of  Colonel  Redoubt,  a  principal  personage  in  the 
ild  stories  of  the  General,  a  Colonel  Redoubt, 
rho  had  tat  a  leg  in  the  same  engagement  where 
In-,  had  lost  his  eye*.  Colonel  Redoubt  ix  »l 
course  received  like  an  old  friend,  and  soon  finds 
means  to  let  Miss  liastion  know  that  he  lias  not 
a  wooden  leg, — that  ha  is  young, — and  her  lover 
in  disguise.     They  agree  (in  a  song,)  that  tliey 


B  The  following  note  hoi  been  fumubcJ  to  me  respecting 
>Jy  ty  Night ;— TliU  play  u  a  tnuwUnon  of  a  Frtmdi  play  tf 
Atari,  cati«d  £e  Content  o*  ki  Vein  AtftM,  axOCf*  that  itie 
Comtr  ilp  firmonill*  i«  th«ro  an  Englishman;  aaorigimU.it  ii 
Brw,  hut  respectable.  Th«  public  in  France  would  not  r. •- 
carve  fatourably  a  play  where  tlie  Engluh  character  was  made 
ttat-mpUbk.  / 

My  iiilimnant,  a*  w«U  ae  myself, had  not  been  in  France  for 
many  yean,  when  bo  furnuhcU  the  above  note-  Wc  have  both 

<i*d  it  lincc.am!  can  claim oow  be  our  countrymfn  no  tuch 
aaporiority  of  politcocea  or  liberality— Note  10  Second  Edition. 


19* 


LO*IXJ!# LSi,UcH  1'tATi. 


love, — tliot  tliey  must  Ay,— ami  Uiat  there  will 
be  a  post-chaise  at  a  certain  hour  at  the  garden- 
door.  la  the  evening  the  General  begins  tell* 
iog  \n%  old  stories  by  the  fire-side  ;— Ok  litter 
mid  whole  family  fall  ailocp,  except  the  lover* 
and  a  trusty  servant.  The  sister,  always  nub* 
cious,  holds  in  her  sleep  her  niece's  hand  ;  this 
hand  is  very  adroitly  disengaged,  and  the  band 
of  a  clownish  servant,  fast  aslcq>  as  well  as  his 
nnstrws,  substituted,  having  been  for  Uiat  pur- 
pose  transported  in  his  chair  near  her.  Next,  a 
great  bunch  of  keys  hanging  from  her  side  is 
seized  upon,  and  they  disappear.  The  Mind  Ge- 
neral all  this  *hile  has  been  narrating,  and  con- 
tinues, after  the  flight  of  the  lovers,  to  tell  his 
stories  to  in  audience  fast  asleep.— This  U  a 
eovp*dettteatrt> — Astonished  at  last  at  the  s*- 
kaec  of  his  friend  the  Colonel,  to  whom  he  has 
appealed  as  a  witness  of  some  mensurable  cir- 
cumstance, he  urges  him  repeatedly,  but  all  in 
,  to  spenk,  and  confirm  what  he  has  said. 
This  scene  is  interrupted  at  last  by  the  Iuvtt 
chosen  by  the  aunt,  who  comes  in  without  be- 
ing  announced,  astonished  to  hod  every  door 
open,  and  everybody  asleep ;— the  aunt,  sud- 
denly waking,  introduces  her  niece,  whose  hand 
she  thinks  she  holds,  to  the  young  gentleman, 
but  the  hand  is  that  of  the  clownish  footman, 
whom  she  draws  after  her.    Surprise— discovery 


i  * 


LON'UOX — OOUiH  ri^tvs. 

— fagr — anil  general  cotilusioti  ;— quick, 
laoraes    and  a  parsoit  i 

In  the  mean  time,  change  of  scene ; — ai 
of  which  the  landlord  and  landlady  are  ocsMnsi 
ried  people,  who  (by  way  of  episode,)  begin  to 
ipvftvrel  already.  An  out-rider  comes  an  drunk, 
order?  a  supper,  aajd  bespeaks  horses  for  his  mas- 
ter, a  French  lord,  and  lib  lady.  Soon  after  a 
pott-cliaixe  draw*  up  ;  these  arc  the  runaway 
vers,  who  arc  rnwtaken  for  tlto  French  lord  I 
lady.  Their  servant,  who  perceives  in- 
take* advantage  of  it  to  secure  the  bespoken 
liorses,  the  only  ones  in  the  stable,  and,  to  do  it 
the  better,  speaks  broken  Kngtwi ;  and,  like  a 
true  ,9/ajvxr>vr,  ptt%  after  supper,  a  rrraiuuing 
chicken  in  hi*  pocket,  which,  being  a  flabby 
thing,  is,  of  course,  supposed  to  be  quite  French, 
and  makes  the  house  laugh.*  These  travellers 
are  no  sooner  gone  than  the  true  French  lord 


•  I  am  lull  that  I  harr*  mi*nrfer*ood  the  touch  of  dtt 
tUMMr,  ami  ihfi  mlfftlu»  of  the  mittt ;  and  lhaf,  moraoter,  if 
the  coroplainu  of  those  alio  object  U  odious  or  ridiculous  ctu- 
rsctsx*  bcuig  drawn    Iroui  their   COBBtl  v   wttc  ultcutlctl  to,  It 

would  Iwd  to  the  coul  (-refusion  of  loch  characters,  and  chat 
ass*  woaW  rrstusa  for  ts»  atac*  bat  parsact  characters,  and 
aa  pertceUy  dull.  1  have  oafy  to  asy,  that  it  ia  peculiarly  ua- 
i«ru*o±t#  (or  iprci^umn  Una  two*  but  thoa*  odious  or  ridicu- 
lous character*  should  ever  happen  to  fall  to  their  share  on  tbr 
hit*  j*. 


164 


IO*DON— MCUSII    PLAYS. 


and  liuly  arrive, — no  horses,  no  Huppcx,— long 
<*\;»Iattntii>n  in  broken  English  j  blunders  and 
ridiculous  ijtu  pro  </u*s.  'Iliis  same  French  lord 
'unsieur  Jc  Comic  dc  Grcnouillc ;  and  in  or- 
der to  estimate  rightly  the  wit  of  the  mum-,  the 
reader  must  know  that  the  little  amphibious  ani- 
mal called  here  frog,  is  thought  to  be  a  favour- 
ite dish  in  France,— a  sort  of  national  daiuty  ; 
therefore  (Jrcnquillc  is  here  a  neat  allegory,  and 
res  at  armes  partantts  to  Monsieur  le  Count. 
1  have  in  my  time  eaten  frogs!— I  own  it 
idly,  and  might  do  it  again,  properly  dressed 
with  u  white  naucT,  like  a  fricassee  of  chickens 
ot'  which  frogs  have  the  whiteness  and  delicacy  i 
but  after  the  candour  of  this  confession,  I  l»vc 
a  right  to  be  believed  when  1  assert*  that  not  one 
in  a  hundred  of  the  inhabitant*  of"  Frauce  ever 
tasted  frogs,  and  that  most  of  them  arc  ignorant 
that  they  were  ever  eaten. 

To  return  to  Monsieur  le  Count  dc  Grenouilk- ; 
he  is  flying  from  London,  where  he  believes  he 
hoot  run  it  hiver  of  hi*  wife's  through  the  body. 
In  the  middle  of  the  conversation,  or  rather  al- 
tercation, between  llic  Count  and  landlady,  a 
third  post-chaise  arrives  with  the  old  General 
Bastion,  pursuing  his  daughter,  with  his  intended 
5on*in-law  Mr  Skipton.  The  Count  and  Conn, 
teas,  much  alarmed,  withdraw  hastily  to  the  next 
room,  from  wliencc  they  overhear  with  great  tcr. 


LONDON — KXOLlSto  PJ 


135 


iot  something  about  pursuit,  and  the  name  of 
Skipton,  which  is  the  very  name  of  hi*  wife's  lo- 
nr  whom  he  thinks  he  has  killed ;  and  that, 
consequently,  the  old  grmrJcman  must  be  Moo* 
.Skipton  tc  j^re,  in  full  pursuit  of  him  the 
murderer  of  his  son  \  and  it  is  here  necessary  to 
explain  that  young  Skipton  having  slipped,  in 
fighting  in  the  dark,  and  fallen,  was  the  cause  of 
the  Count's  belief'  that  be  was  killed.  The  host- 
ess takes  it  into  her  head  thai  llie  Count  and 
Countess  are  the  fugitive  lovers,  and  only  pre- 
tend to  be  French  as  u  disguise,  ami  informing 
\hv.  pursuers,  Skipton  goes  to  a  justice  of  the 
peace  for  a  warrant.  In  tiic  mean  time  the  Count 
comes  out  of  his  hiding-place  ;  the  old  General 
loads  him  with  reproaches,  which  the  Count  un- 
ilcrataiida  as  being  for  hut  son's  murder*  but 
when,  yielding  at  last  to  his  paternal  feelings,  he 
wants  to  told  his  dear  daughter  (who  happens  to 
be  the  Counter,)  in  his  arms,  the  Count  knows 
not  wlsar.  to  make,  of  it  all.  Young  .Skipton,  how- 
ever, returns,  to  add  to  the  amazement  of  his 
murderer  the  Count-r-a  new  rciairassontrti.  At 
last  the  true  fugitive  lovers,  who  lave  l>een  over- 
turned on  the  road,  make  their  appearance,  and 
arc  forgiven.  There  is  in  all  this  a  great  deal  o\' 
true  comic  ;  but  the  style  is  strangely  neglected, 
and  the  songs  absurd  to  a  degree,  which  must  be 
intentional.     These  arc  whit  the  English  call 


M6 


LONDON — EXGLISM  PLAYS. 


oootmtr  song*,  and  they  are  prodigiously^di- 
verted  by  ihetn.  This  play  is  Column's,  an  au- 
thor who  has  written  with  success  fcr  the  Mage. 
1  give  it  m  a  .-ample  of  the  best  modern  farces. 
Hie  or  A/its  is  another  musical  farce.  It  would 
be  dtfScuh  to  give  any  account  of  (lie  plot ;  a 
jumble  of  unconnected  trifling  incidents,  without 
any  probability,  and  contrived  for  the  mere  pcr- 
poie  of  introducing  burleKwc  imitariosw  of  oer- 
lab  fashionable  proceeding*.  The  paction  foe 
horses  is,  as  every  body  know*,  national  here  ; 
and  there  is  at  this  moment  a  dub  of  men  01 
fortune,  whotc  laudable  ambition  it  u  to  drive 
ibnr  in  hand  without  a  p09tl  aroa- 

Icurs  havinj;  acquired  the  principles  of  their  art 
real  coachmen,  and  particularly  stage- 
ichmcn,  who  have  moat  practice  and  experi- 
ice,  retain  a  due  degree  of  respect  for  tlieir  in- 
structors, ami  a  very  natural  bias  and  disposition 
to  imitate  their  fiectiliar manners  and  language; 
they  have  so  far  succeeded,  that  they  may 
said  to  look  like  coachmen  while  thev  drive 
lv  like  gentlemen.  One  of  tiie  principal  pcr- 
of  Hitur  MUs  is  u  voting  nttomcy,  who, 
instead  of  la*r*enita,  drive*  a  smart  tandem,  which 
lie  upset*,  afler  running  over  an  old  woman  !— 
a  joke  by  no  means  congenial,  I  really  believe, 
wiffi  the  real  manners  and  feelings  of  the  Eng- 
lish people,  but  which,  however,  excites  power- 


LONDON-—  ENGLISH  TLAVJ, 


127 


fulry  their  mirth.   It  has  occurred  to  roc,  that  this 

i  raitancc  so  little  to  the  err Uvt  of  their  taste, 
might  arfoul  a  favourable  interpretation  to  their 
apparently  illiberal  treatment  of  foreigners  on 
their  stage  j  for  wc  find  here  that  they  can  reJisb 
ill-nature  and  brutality  in  fictions,  although  not 
in  reality. 

lb  fashionable  attorney  wears  I  do  not  koour 
how  many  neckcloth*,  wsattcoaU,  and  greas- 
GAfl&fc  all  different  in  form  and  colour,  and  cad) 
u  i ill  its  proper  name  ;  he  pulls  them  otr  one  af- 
ter anotlwr,  with  appropriate  air*  ami  graces,  gi- 
ving full  scope  to  the  actOr*i  (Mr  Mathews)  gc- 
rntil ;  he  smacks  his  long  whip,  and  utters, with 
inconceivable  volubility,  strings  of  jokes  in  the 

licnl  slant;,  of  which  it  is  excessively  difficult 
i'.»r  mi  to  CflMaa  the  sense,  and  posnibly  it  has 
none;  btlfl  1  recognize  here  and  there  some  cant 
worth,  which  I  hear  often  repeated  among  young 

ile,  by  way  of  smart  nc.-*.  Tl>e  great  Garrick, 
who  did  not  disdain  to  play  the  part  oi  Abel 
Drugger,  a  journeyman  druggist,  ncrcr  railed  to 
delight  the  public  simply  by  the  characteristic 
manner  of  tying  the  strings  of  hi;  apron,  copied 
from  nature.  To  return  to  the  f(\str-v\-haml  gen- 
tlemen -9  they  carry  imitation  ho  far,  thai  the 
carriage!  they  drive  arc  made  like  stage-coaches, 
awl  ?o  exactly,  lint  they  have,  been  taken  for 
h  by  passengers  who  have  entered  them  un- 


1 


us 


lcwdok—  •  .Nfiusn  raw. 


dcr  that  pervasion,  and  paid  their  fare  to  the 
noble coachmen,  who  could  hardly  conceal  their 
exultation  in  pocketing  the  money.  The  ballads 
of  thn  farce  are  etill  more  in  defiance  of  sense, 
flatter,  and  more  foolish,  than  those  of  the  prece- 
ding play. 

The  Fret  Knights  is  a  musical  drama.  It  is  in 
part  sentimental,  in  part  trivial,  and  in  part  teiv 
rific  ; — crude  exaggerated  sentiments  in  the 
German  style,  mixed  with  English  buftboncry, 
and  every  specie*  of  improbability  and  piatuuda, 
much  show  and  pageantry.  A  cavmi  foe  the 
secret  tribunal  to  sit  in,  lighted  by  torches  j  a 
convent,  the  abbot  of  which  set*  the  dread  tribu- 
nal at  nought,  and  iescuca  a  young  princess,  on 
the  point  of  being  sacrificed  by  an  usurper, 
Fawcett  is  an  excellent  comic  actor,  and  lack- 
don  has  a  very  tine  voice ;  but  what  avail  ta- 
lents, so  ill  employed  ? 

Speed  the  Pbntg&J—'Ilie  author  oi  this  comedy 
hail  selected  a  fashionable  subject  of  ridicule* 
tlwt  of  projector.  Sir  Abel  Ilandy  is  inexhausti- 
ble in  mechanical  inventions,  which  never  go 
right.  Huson,  Bob  Handy,  piques  Inrnwlf  upon 
being  in  action  what  his  lather  s»  in  conception. 
He  does  not  indeed  invent,  but  he  does  every- 
rhing  better  than  any  body  else ;  and  cannot 
bear  to  see  men,  women,  or  children  employed 
in  any  way,  without  an  itrwiftibjlc  desire  of  ta- 


f 


LONDON'—  ENGLISH  PLAYS. 


149 


king  their  work  out  of  their  hands.  From  the 
lace  cushion  to  the  plough,  he  is  a  stranger  to  no 
trade,  but  a  bungler  in  all  There  are  many 
laughable  situations  in  all  thi*, — tho  rest  of  the 
play  is  worse  than  useless-  An  orphan,  ignorant 
of  hi?  origin,  and  very  melancholy  on  the  sub- 
ject, brought  up  as  u  peasant  at  the  tail  of  the 
plough,  ami  sf  ill  possessing,  by  a  tort  of  innate 
gentility,  all  the  sentiment*  and  manners  of  a 
gentleman,  moreover,  very  handsome.  Then  a 
branitif.il  il  eU  ri-turned  from  Irermany, 

where  she  has  spent  a  number  of  years  with  Jut 
father,  a*  innocent  as  she  i*  beautiful,  and  as  ro» 
mnntic  as  either,  rails  desperately  in  love  with 
the  handsome  orphan  peasant,  at  first  sight,  bc- 
cauae  tic  lias  von  the  prize  at  a  pi  '.-match, 

aiu1.  •%  very  modest  notwithstanding.  The  young 
lady's  father  is  just  returned  to  his  old  castle, 
which  had  been  abandoned  for  years.  It  con- 
tains  a  mysterious  chamber,  double-locked,  bar- 
red, and  bolted,  the  deposit  of  some  awful  secret, 
which  nobody  is  to  know,  ami  of  which  he  speaks 
to  everybody.  None  dares  to  enter  tlir  latal 
chamber;  IhjI  the  projector,  Sir  Abel  Handy, 
Cdte  the  gord  tan  knot,  by  setting  fire  to  the  cas- 
tle, in  the  prosecution  of  some  chemical  experi- 
ment to  extinguish  fires.  The  beautiful  orphan 
saves  of  course,  the  life  of  the  beautiful  damsel, 
and,  penetrating  into  the  latal  chamber,  brings 

IVL    I.  I 


LONDON— ENGLISH  PLAYS. 

fbrh  a  knife  and  some  bloody  rags,  the  tokens 
of  a  murder.  The  travelling  father,  who  w  quite 
a  tragic  personage,  confesses  that  lie  once  killed 
his  own  brother,  who  turn*  out  to  be  the  rather 
of  llic  orphan  !— Tf*ue  it  is  that  this  brother  gave 
i?m  firoviu  .ition  enough,  for  lie  took  hi*  mistress 
from  him  and  got  her  with  child,  which  child  is 
the  very  orphan  !  Amidst  all  this  u|>roar,  nn  an- 
n  person,  wrapped  in  a  great  cloak,  steps 
in,— the  verv  murdered  brother,— who,  however, 
i«  plainly  not  dead,  and  had  amused  himself,  it 
seems,  in  fnllowhig,  step  by  atap,  his  supposed 
murderer,  for  twenty  years  winning  his  money 
play,  without  ever  discovering  himsctfj  but 
turning  it  afterwards  nut  of  hn-n.Khip,  and  to 
make  amends  for  the  unlucky  accident  of  the 
iild  ;  yet  allowing  him  to  die  by  inches  of  re- 
morse for  the  murder.  Towards  die  end  of  the 
\  there  is  another  brace  of  lovers  introduced, 
id  at  hist  two  marriages  made,  and  one  tin. 
lade  ;  tor  old  Handy,  who  has  made  the  filial 
[peffment  of  marrying  a  maid-scrvant,  a  per. 
•ct.  shrew,  get*  rid  of  ber  by  means  of  a  first 
taftfage,  trickily  discovered.  And  all  this  is  to 
ring  in  some  very  trite  and  poor  jokes  on  mar. 
;c,  and  likewise  some  superfine  sentimental 

hty  from  peasants,  in  a  provincial  dialect. 
Thecmdr  trash  of  thestj  popular  plays  affords 

Mr*  sample  of  the  whole  modem  British  stage* 

10 


I.0ND0X ENGLISH   PI  A  IS. 


1S1 


which  is  rather  below  the  level  of  the  aihibisJMH 
at  fairs,  which  I  recollect  having  teen  in  France 
twenty  or  thirty  years  ago.  They  made  me  laugh 
sometimes*  aikl  might  do  so  still ;  and,  tar  from 
.m  MtiwiUingoew  to  yield  to  rKiirlrry,  it  is  always 
a  great  comfort  to  me  when  1  happen  to  timl  that 
I  an  not  quite  a  stranger  to  tliat  most  valuable 
faculty  of  our  species.  But  really,  if  it  wan  ever 
wise  to  be  ashamed  of  having  laughed  at  any- 
thing, there  might  be  some  reason  here.  Vol- 
taire said,  that  the  lajurua^r  of  I  comedy 
is  the  language  o# dabanchety,  uot  of  poutenesa. 
Murah  ascribes  the  corruption  of  manners  in 
London  to  comedy  as  its  chief  cimhc  :  Ike  sajPi  it 
is  like  that  of  no  other  country  ;  the  school  in 
wl i ic!i  the  youth  of  l>oih  sex*:*,  taw  diarize  tlieau 
selves  with  vice,  never  represented  there  as  vice, 
but  as  gaiety.  As  for  comedies,  aays  lfcdcrot, 
then  haw  none,  they  hare  instead,  satires,  full 
indeed  >f  gaiety  and  itreaigtli,  bol  vitl  nd  oso 
i.vl ;.  and  without  dclicat  bave,  floaty,  the 
opinion  of  1-ord  Karnes,  who  observes  that,  if 
•inuiilii  *  of  Outgrew:  did  not  rack  him  with 

iu  his  last  moments,  he  must  have  bcea 
lost  to  all  sense  of  virtue. 

For  myself,  however,  I  must  confess,  tliat  I 

hcrto  seed  no  very  bail  vocals  on  the 
stage,— -but  a  great  deal  of  very  bud  taste.  Tliere 
is  on  the  contrary,  in  moat  modem  plays,  fine 


I.OV00X — EXOL[SH  PLAYS. 

upceches  about  virtue  and  patriotism,  brought  in 
bead  and  shoulders,  nod  always  vigorously  ap* 
pLauded.  This  doti  credit  to  the  moral  *ense  of 
public* — but  1  own  1  should  like  to  we,  on 
the  stage,  something  of  these  satires,  so  full  of 
igth  and  gaiety,  of  which  Diderot  speaks; 
to  be  introduced  to  that  reprobate  Congrcve* 
"  The  IkuI  U»tc  which  pn  cedes  good  taste,"  said 
Horace  Walpolc,  "  is  preferable  to  that  which 
>llows-"  I  he  dnimatic  genius  of  the  English 
Jranckit  let  distance* ;  from  the  first  bad  ue-.tr  ii 
came  at  once  to  the  last,  without  intermediate 
degrees.  The  English  do  not  indeed  defend 
heir  comedy,—  they  acknowledge  tliat  the  liest 
arc  coarse  and  indelicate,  and  Lliat  for  many  years 
nothing  has  appeared  that  is  not  below  medio- 
crity. Jhe  theatre,  they  say,  is  almost  entirely 
abandoned  by  the  upper  rank6  of  social) , — the 

for  the  stage  i*  lest,    ft  mum  to  roe  a 
fortune  ;  for  good  comedy  is  a  pastime  more  ra- 
tional and  amusing,  than  the  insipid  evening*  of 
which  I  liave  given  rm  account  before. 

Mrs  Siddous  lias  at  last  made,  her  appearance, 

yesterday,    (the    25th    April)   in    the  Grecian 

Daughter.     She  appears  about  fifty, — her  voice 

a  little  broken, —  and  F —  WM  Rt  Jtr^t  disagrcc- 

ted  at  the  change  twenty  years  had  pro- 

luccd.     With  fewer  natural  advantages,  her  ta* 

lents  remain  the  same,  and  she  is  certainly  a  very 


L0XDOX — MRS  SIDD0X3,  \r 


i  ;.; 


great  actress.  The  house  was  quite  rull.  Her 
younger  brollier,  t\  Kcmble,  acted ;  he  ha*  very 
dramatic  features,  ami  a  great  OQSBUIld  of  couav 
tenaiice. 

Aprd  so. — We  have  seen  Mrs  Siddons  again 
in  the  Gamester,  and  she  m  much  greater  tliun 
on  ii»e  first  day.  Perfect  simplicity,  deep  aenai* 
.,  her  despair  in  the  last  scene,  mute  and 
calm,  had  a  prodigious  effect.  There  wu*  not  a 
dry  eye  in  Uic  house,  —the  most  profound  «leaoc 
pervaded  an  assembly  of  people  of  all  sorts,  in 
the  gallery  as  well  as  everywhere  else-  Mr*  Sid- 
doofl  had  touched  a  chord  which  ,  ibrutes  in  all 
hearts.  We  were  placed  farther  from  the  stage 
than  the  first  day,  (in  the  pit,  unmindful  of  con- 
sequences) and  Mrs  SUdoas  appeared  Mill  young 
and  Ikandsomc.  Cooke  played  Stukcly  con  amore. 
\  (e  ifl  an  excellent  actor,  who  delight*  (a  strange 
taste)  in  these  parts  of  scoundrels.  This  one 
(Stukcly)  is  an  amateur  of  baseness, — he  giorks 

it,  and  boa-sta  of  it,  which  is  not  in  nature. 
Then/  i.%  -.till  a  sort  of  QSOdettJ  in  vice  which 
shrinks  from  a  naked  exhibition,  and  dreads  even 
to  sec  the  secret  image  reflected  tirom  its  own 
bo*o«u. 

The  pit  of  Covent-Gardcn  is  neaHy  square, 
about  fifty  feet  by  fifty  : — twenty-four  benches 
for  thirty  people,  give  seven  hundred  and  twenty 
spectators  at  3s.  6d. ;  tneiity.four  lower  boxes. 


LO5CD0M— Sin  FRAVCrS  BlTRDtTT. 


twelve  persons  in  each,  is  three  hundred  and 
twelve  at  7*. ;  certain  bnck  hox<>.  i  I  the  baa* 
ket,  may  hold  our  hundred  and  eighty  peoph-  at 
7*. ;  the  second,  third,  and  fourth  rows,  at  least 
six  hundred  people  at  an  average  price  of  4*., 

i]  eighteen  hundred  spectators,  supposing  the 

use  full  in  all  parts,  L.4I8  sterling. 

The  eye  of  the  Spectator,  in  the  front  boxes,  u 
rt  sixty  feet  from  the  toremoM  cdpe  of  the 
\  much  ton  t;ir  to  perceive  tl«  fine  ami  Iran. 
*!i;ule*  of  expression  *  equally  ao  to  hear 
what  it  not  vociferated.  With  the  dimension! 
of  the  theatres  of  antiquity,  they  should  adopt 
hleririaethemaxipH',  and  Ehfl  <-nntmanccn  toaug- 
roent  ihe  voice. 

Sir  Francis  Burden  is  still  the  town  talk  ;  and 
the  question  of  privilege  {a  debated  at  every  ciin- 
nCTi  Tl»ey  nil  agree  tlrat  the  House  of  Commons 
is  merely  legislative,  and  not  at  all  executive  or 
judicatory ;  but  that  it  has  certain  natural  ami 
necessary  right*  of  self-protection,  for  the  main- 
tenance of  peace  anil  good  OVakr  witliiti  it*  walls 

an  individual  has  a  ri^ht  in  check  hia  children 
if  they  are  noisy,— to  turn  out  a  troublesome  in- 
truder, or  fire  upon  a  house-breaker ;  but  if  this 
ii I' vidua!  leaves  his  house  in  pursuit  of  the  in- 
truder, or  not  only  repulse*  or  arrests  the  house- 
breaker, hut  inflicts  punishment  himself,  he  en- 
croaches on  the  province  of  the  Uw  j  and  this  i 


LOS DOU — SIR  FZUXC15  LVZDZtt, 


155 


precisely  what  tike  House  of  Commons  is  accused 
of  having  rirst  done  about  a  itKinih  ;igo-  An  ob- 
scare  muu,  named  Gale  Jones,  vs  lo  l.<  jit  adeba- 
titsfC  club,  a  sort  of  gymnasium,  where  youo;; 
meet  to  learn  the  art  of  speaking,  called  the  Iki* 
tisli  Forum,  announced,  by  means  ul  printed 
hand  bills,  the  following  question  as  rJic  subject 
of  debate  :  "  Who  moat  outraged  public  opinion, 
Mr  Yorke  in  calling  tor  the  standing  order  of 
the  House,  which  excludes  die  public  from  the 
gallery  IwMr  Windham  by  his  recent  attack  on 
the  lil>crty  of  the  press  r"  This  Gale  Join*  was 
denounced  m  I'aHiamiMit  by  Mr  Yorke,  one  of 
tin-  member*  named  in  his  hand-bill,  brought  to 
the  bar,  and  imprisoned  in  Newgate.  The  object 
of  the  hand  bill  was  evidently  to  throw  odium 
on  the  question  of  privilege,  and  to  intimidate 
the  members  by  a  personal  attack  \  and  it  might 
be  factious  and  criminal,  although  worse  things 
are  said  and  published  every  day.  But  the  pee* 
valent  opinion  is  now,  that  it  was  not  a  crime  of 
which  the  House  could  take  the  punishment  into 
its  own  bands.  Sir  Francis  Burdctt  next  came 
for  ward  with  a  letter  in  defence  of  this  same  Gale 
Jones,  addressed  to  his  constituents,  but  in  fact 
10  the  public  ;  undertaking  to  prove  not  only  the 
illegality  of  his  punishment,  but  the  innocence 
of  the  publication  itself,  and  accusing  the  House 
of  usurping  the  powers  of  the  other  branches  of 


LOVDO-V — SfR  fRANCIS  EDRDETT. 

^H'eratnnri.  A  member  might  say  all  this  in 
his  place,  but  the  publication  was  an  oflence 
against  the  House  ;  am),  after  imprisoning  Gale 
Jones  a  private  citizen,  tlw  House  cnsild  not 
do  lc«  for  Sir  Francis,  M  own  members  j 

although  it  vraa  obvious  that  a  simple  reprimand, 
w ithnut cither  roartyrdomor  triumph,  would  have 
MB  better.  A  first  cttot  has  led  to  another; 
id,  after  disturbing  the  peace  of  the  capital,  fa* 
*hcs  it  now  with  much  conversation  about  pri- 
ilege  and  prerogative,— rights  of  protection  and 
tctfooi 


TVr  will  rake  Kruptes  dark  and  nice. 
And  afl.-r  «Jrc.  them  in  n  trier." 


Sir  Francis  is  said  to  have  been  employed  since 
the  Late  disturbances,  in  translating  Magna-Char- 
la  with  hU  son  ;  a  display  of  jtatrioUsro  rather  OS- 
tcntaUou*. 

1  do  not  know  whether  I  understand  exactly 
the  object  of  the  reformer*.  Parliaaicnt,  they 
say,  (and  it  is  the  language  of  many  members  of 
Parliament)  such  as  it  is  constituted  at  present,  is 
a  BOfftry  tool,  inconvenient,  and  of  little  use,— it 
is  a  dike  built  at  vast  expense,  but  the  water 
rises  above  it  and  runs  over.  Ministers  despair- 
ing of  their  places,  amidst  the  storms  of  faction, 
consider  themselves  as  men  passenger*  iu  the 


lowdox—  RCFOumn 


Ml 


ship,  and  care  not  about  Hb  safety  after  the 
voyage,  provided  they  abate  hi  the  proitu  of  the 
present  adventure  A  simple  monarchy  would 
have  more  energy  and  promptness  abroad,  insure 
more  tranquillity  at  home,  and  cost  less.  Is  then 
a  machine,  so  curiously  constructed,  and  the  re* 
suit  of  the  experience  of  ages,  to  be  wholly 
thrown  aside,— -and  an  order  of  things,  under 
winch  England  has  become  a  phenomenon  of 
civil  liberty,  prosperity,  and  greatness  *""■»> 
the  nations  of  Europe,  to  be  changed  £or  ano- 
ther resting  on  unpractised  speculations*1  The 
British  constitution  may  halted  have  lost  much 
of  its  freedom,  from  eircumtiances  resulting 
from  the  present  state  of  Europe,  and  may  lose  a 
great  deal  more,  if  that  state  should  last  many 
years ;  but  as  Vortg  as  the  constitutional  organs 
remain,  tho*c  precious  forms,  by  which  public 
opinion  receives  a  legal  existence,  and  a  name, 
the  seeds  of  liberty  cannot  be  lost,  and  a  change 
of  cirarrnstanccs  will  restore  their  natural  energy 
and  efficiency.  Were  it  even  true  that  the  Bri. 
tish  Parliament  is  useless  as  a  legislature,  it  would 
be  still  of  essential  service  as  a  house  of  edu- 
cation for  grown  men  ; — a  place  where  the  aria. 
tocracy  of  rank,  of  fortune,  and  of  talents,  meet 
to  learn  political  economy, — study  men  and 
manners,  practise  eloquence,  and  acquire  those 
habits  of  serious  occupation  and  pursuits,  the 


13rf 


waflt  of  which  condemned  rr.cn  of  the-  same  rank 
in  France,  to  wa*tr  their  activity  and  powers  in 
IMmloai  idleness,  or  petty  intrigue*.  Thcaft 
£rown  men  would  not  polo  such  a  school  with- 
out a  scrubbnee  of  legJtlctJDO}  which  keeps  up 
emubtion  and  interest,  like  money  at  cards. 

There  are  shocking  abuses  in  the  governmcott 
jays  another  claw  of  reformer*,  and  the  only  re- 
medy would  be  »n  equal  and  effectual  rcpreaef* 
tiriion  or'  die  people.  You  bear  repeated  every. 
where,  and  read  iti  print,  the  singular  fact,  that 
ft  English  and  Scotch  members  in  the  Houae 
of  Commons,  :J07,  forming  n  grmt  majority,  are 
ckcted  by  j £4-  powerful  individuals  !  The. bo* 
rough*  or  towns  /which  return  these  members, 
having,  by  lapse  of  time,  lort  their  population, 
and  being  reduced  to  a  few  hundred  inhabitant*, 
or  indeed  a  few  lam-ilicx,  thi -ir  vutca  are  easily  se- 
cured by  the  natural  influence  of  rank  and  for- 
tune,  or  forestalled  hy  the  more  direct  corrup- 
tion of  certain  political  brokers,  who  make  it 
their  iMitinejuMn  procure  the  election  of  any  can* 
dUate,  for  L  3000  or  L.-mkk),  by  means  best 
known  to  themselves.  While  these  decayed  bo- 
rough* enjoy  such  a  disproportionate  and  per- 
verted representation,  many  populous  towns 
which  have,  in  the  mean  time,  risen  iu  import- 
ance, such  as  Birmingham  and  Manchester,  have 
no  representatives  at  all  in  .Parliament. 


r 


uatmos — RKFORifxas* 


139 


observed,  on  U>c  other  hand,  that  the  mo* 
popular  elections,  tho*c  made  really  by  the  peo- 
ple* by  every  nun  hiving  a  tenement  of  (lie  v* 
luc  of  forty  shillings  a -year,  and  paying  taxes, 
are  precisely  tlioae  wiiere  uV  must  costly  sort  of 
influence  is  employed,  to  such  a  degree,  as  U> 
ruin  frequently  opulent  tarnilics*  who  vie  with 
each  other  in  corruption, — fee  people  receiving 
with  both  bands  and  voting  for  the  one  who 
pays  best,  or  at  least,  who  treaU  them  moat. 
**  The  elector*,"  my*  Mr  Windhau. 
bratcd  speech  of  the  26th  May,  1*0*,  **  arc  quite 
ax  corrupt  as  the  elected,— the  one  full  a*  ready 
to  sell  as  the  others  to  buy.  Aiicr  having  made 
u  traffic  of  their  sovereign  rights,  Uie  people  are 
associates!  in  ail  the  abuses  of  which  tiiey  com- 
plain, by  meana  of  contracts  and  jobs,  collection 
oi'  the  revenue,"  !cc.  "  It  is  thwOKrvca  that  Uicy 
have  most  to  fear ;  and,  instead  of  saying 
the  system  iscornipt  from  top  to  bottom!  it  might 
be  said,  with  more  truth,  from  bottom  to  top." 
Mr  WincUiam  denies  at  once,  however,  the  cri- 
minality of  selling  scats  in  tariiaincut.  He  says, 
"  That  men  arc  not  found  to  In  qualified 

fur  the  duties  of  their  station  for  having  obtained 
them  by  purchase ;  and  mentions  «  instances, 
the  scats  in  the  old  Parliament  of  Paris,  •  the 


140 


LONDON' 


church,  the  army,  and  certain  law-officer*  in 
Kngland.  It  U  impossible  to  prevent  these  aeals 
being  made  an  object  of  bargain,  or  something 
very  like  it-  Voting  will  always  be  influenced 
by  the  calculation*  of  private  interest.  How  in 
H,"  ho  asks, "  that  a  landlord  has  mure  influence 
over  his  own  tenants,  than  over  those  of  ano- 
ther man  ?  that  a  large  manufacturer  carries  to 
the  poll  his  own  workmen,  and  not  others  ?  lliat 
the  butcher  and  baker  of  an  opulent  mim,  spend- 
ing  his  fortune  in  a  borough  town,  and  Uie 
tradesmen  rf  his  ru'ij'lihmirbood,  should  gene- 
rally oblige  him  with  their  votes? — what,  have 
all  such  considerations  to  do  with  the  qualifica- 
tions necessary  fur  the  faithful  and  able  dtsclurgc 
of  the  duties  of  a  member  of  Parliament  ?'  Ail- 
raitting,  what  can  hardly  be  deputed,  that  votes 
arc  obtained,,  if  not  by  giving  money  to  the  vo- 
ters, at  least  by  an  influence  quite  foreign  in  ap- 
pearance to  considerations  of  fitness  for  legisla- 
tion, it  may  be  asked,  whether  the  man  of  influ- 
ence may  not  transfer  the  election  from  himself 
to  some  other  person,  lor  a  certain  valuable  con. 
■•deration,  without  any  great  risk  of  this  friend 


oVpowtcd  a  larg«  kiim  of  money  into  the  public  tnunry  for 
which  they  received  intereti  j  each  new  judge  repaying  hi* 
predscssftOr  or  hi*  heir.  It  mm  a  pledge  of  pecuniary  indepen* 
not  s  purchuie  of  the  office. 


LONDOK— BRITISH  COKJTTTUTIOV.  141 

much  worse  qualified  than  himself?  If  the 
purity  rf  dections  cannot' be  enforced 
any  laws,  and  bought  Beats  arc  not  worse  filled 
lan  other*,  reform  i*  both  unnecessary  and  im- 
practicable- 
All  the  corruption  so  much  talked  of  amounts 
to  tin'*,  that,  either  by  money,  by  good  word*,  by 
tela  of  beneficence,  or  by  the  lustre  of  a  great 
name  and  transcendent  popularity,  a  candidate 
to  Parliament  must  rirst  influence  the  people ;— - 
the  means  may  not  be  all  quite  irreproachable, 
yet,  at  the  worst,  they  arc  a  sort  of  homage  paid 
to  the  people,  who  receive  in  various  ways  their 
its,  duties  and  services  as  sovereign  lord  ;  a 
of  reversal  erf  the  ancient  feudal  tenure,  not 
in  principle  than  the  acknowledgment  in 
ies,  in  arm*,  money,  or  the  like,  formerly 
paid  for  the  renewal  of  a  fieri*  and  much  better 
in  itH  effects  and  consequences.  This  gorern- 
mi  teal  of  influence,  diffused  through- 

kout  the  nation.    There  is  compared  at  least  to 
others,  a  sort  of  mutual  dependence  between  the 
<*nt  ranks  of  society,— 4xrtWcen  the  rich  and 
tin:  poor,— the  great  ami  Hie  low;  the  former 
cannot  rise,  nor  the  latter  sink,  without  draw  in;'. 
K  Other  after  it.     There  is  a  continual  shifting 
places,  it  is  true,  and  much  internal  competi- 

■ 

*  Bhicbtoiie,  chap,  iv,  book  2. 


) 


i.oNDos— bwtish  coxrrmmosr. 


lion  between  individuals  ;  but  the  ranks  remain 
in  their  proprr  xtatiou,  and  there  i*  little  reason 
to  apprehend  such  a  turn  of  the  wheel,  and  total 
overthrow,  as  took  place  in  France,  when  the 
ftet  and  the  head  lost  their  equilibrium. 

The  government  of  Kneland  has  been  called, 
hy  way  of  reproach,  an  oligarchy  ;  but  tin-  moat 
popular  government*  ate  in  fact  oligarchic.  The 
uir  the  people  fiver  made,  in  any  country, 
and  can  ever  make  of  power,  is,  to  give  it  away, 
or  let  it  be  takcu  from  t  :irm,— -and  the.  authority 
of  all  is  only  Uiat  of  one,  or  of  a  lew.  Here,  you 
sec  distinctly  the  power  of  one,  that  of  all.  and 
of  a  small  number,  existing  and  acting  together 
aft  the  same  time,  legally,  iudcpemh-mlv,  am!  yet 
combined  into  a  whole,  with  fixed  and  perma- 
nent properties,  and,  although  in  a  state  of  per- 
petual effervescence,  never  decomposed. 

The  most  peculiar  and  admirable  feature  of  the 
English  constitution,  and  that  which  cnsui< 
it  a  long  duration,  is,  that  it  has  covenanted  be- 
tween the  vices  and  virtues  of  our  nature  on  safe 
and  liberal  terms.  From  tliat  generous  ambition, 
which  thiisLs  far  eWnv  alone,  to  (ha  ifbat  cor- 
ruption, each  human  passion  finds  its  wants  pro- 
vided for,  and  its  due  portion  assigned. 

Perhaps  there  would  he  lr«w  clillL-rencc  of  opi- 
nion on  the  question  of  parliamentary  reform,  I 
the  word  representation  Was  understood  in  the 


londox — BRima  covstitutiov. 


!■*■? 


same  sense  by  every  body,  or  not  tucd  at  aJL 
"  Kvery  member,  though  chosen  by  one  parti- 
cular district,"  say*  ISIackstoric,  u  serves  lot  the 
whole  realm,  for  thr  riid  of  hii  miring  tliiiltt 
not  particular,  I  mi  general ;  nut  barely  to  advan- 
tage hi*  constituents,  but  the  commonwealth." 
WlutliiT  this  end  in  to  be  obtained  by  a  more 
popular  representation,  thai  is  to  say,  by  a  greater 
portion  of  the  people  being  active  voters,  ■  tin*. 
ouly  thing  to  be  considered,  and  not  the  abstract 
rights  of  individual*  to  participate  ia  tiofi 

of  members  of  Parliament.  "The  English,"  say* 
J.  J.  Kousseau,  "  think  ti»cy  arc  free,  but  they 
arc  much  mistaken  ;  tiicy  arc  so  only  d  ffaiaj  an 
election  of  members  of  Parliament ;  as  $000  as 
tln\  election  i*  made,  they  arc  slaves,— they  are 
nothing  :  and  the  use  they  make  of  their  liberty, 
during  the  few  moments  of  its  duration,  shew* 
enough  how  little  they  deserve  to  preserve  it." 
Similar  to  the*-  are-  the1  exaggerated  notions  of 

ie  first-rate  reformers  in  this  country.    They 

tcm  to  think  that  liberty  consists  lull  as  much  in 

{  made,  or  assisted  in  making  the  laws,  as 

enjoying  their  protection.     The  Roman  citi- 

'11,  in  lilted  and  vexed  hy  tbi:  tyrannical  uutgis- 

lUs  to  whose  ejection  he  had  contributed  in  the 

tltuous  crowd  of  the  forum,  was  riot  free  -, 

the  citizen  of  Manchester  or  Birmingham, 

tre  of  his  property,  his  life,  his  locomotive  &- 


144 


UlMDOM—  BIUTISH  COKSTTnmox. 


culty,  all  that  an  Englishman  calls  his  birthright, 
is  truly  tree,  although  without  a  vote.  The  right 
of  making  Uwm  may  possibly  be  the  best  means 
of  having  them  tfood,  but  does  not  in  itself  con- 
stitute liberty,— unless  it  u  that  sort  of  specula- 
tive liberty  which  die  French  revolution  had  for 
its  object. 

The  security  of  property  w  hardly  inferior  in 
importance  to  that  of  life  itself,  not  a*  a  mere 
source  of  enjoyment  to  the  possessor,  but  as  the 
great  incentive  to  industry  and  improvements, 
and  as  the  basis  of  civilization.     Life  is  rarely 
attempted,  and  the  laws  requisite  for  its  prol 
tion  arc  few  and  simple  ;  while  property  is  infi- 
nitely more  exposed  to  dangers,  and  its  defence 
more  difficult.    It  is  at  the  purse,  and  not  at  the 
life  of  its  subjects,  that  a  corrupt  government 
aims;  and  it  is  by  the  purse  alto  that  its  en* 
croachment*  on  liberty  are  best  checked  :  there- 
fore the  protection  of  propi  ould  he  among 
the  first  objects  of  legislation.     To  be  protected 
it  must  lie.  effectually  represented  ;  and  the  first 
qualification  to  wuteh  over  propcity  is,  to  have 
much  to  lose  by  the  subversion  of  the  established 
order.  Men  of  that  sort  rosy,  however,  want  bold- 
ness and  cnterprizc, — they  may  have  more  pru- 
dence than  talents.     Popular  elections  are  best 
calculated  to  bring  forth  men  endowed  with  the 
latter  quality ;  borough  influence,  with  the  form- 


imjok — BRirrsn  coxsrrrcnoN. 


145 


t.     Boldne-  tefog  Ulents  should  Dot  lir 

uidered  as  the  first  qualifications  for  am 
of  the  members  of  any  legislative  assembly, 
i:i!i ;*s  integrity  were  oftcm  r (bund allied  to  them, 
experience  teacher  us  to  expect  The  le- 
gislators of  republican  Trance,  chosen  by  die 
BeoplCv  were  mostly  needy  attorneys, — ignorant 
urates, — comedian*,— enthusiastic  theorist*,— 
lausiblc  adventurers  of  all  sorts.  "Hie  pure*! 
choice,  that  which  is  determined  by  the  mere 
persuasion  of  the  fitness  of  the  ram  icems 

the  mart  lifcdj  U>  bie  wrong;    as  few   take   the 
trouble  of  persuading  the  people,  but  tho&i 
see  their  interest  in  deceiving  them. 

The  reformers,  and  even  the  moderate  among 
them,      ;•,  thai  tlu    present  mode  of  eli 
members  U  a  shameful  innovation  ;  that  it 
was  intended  that  decayed  boroughs  should  send 
one-third  imcnt,  while 

racwiefn  towns  of  vast  population  ■,<■.  f|  i  one;  am! 
that  no  man  in  his  senses  would  dream 

ivtroua  arrangement,  if  he  had  a  government 

o  organise.    It  appcais  to  me,  however,  that  the 

(habitant*  of  these  modi  rn  towns,  being  mosth 

ml  icUirers,  are  not  i   .  for  rice- 

from  the  natural  ignorance,  lurbolenci ,  an 

ligacy  of  their  habits  and  l  ,  but  this 

■ry  disposition  to  disturb  the  peace  and  gi 

VOL.  I.  K 


i 


m 


LOS  DON— BRirr?u  coywrtriON-, 


order  of  society,  prevalent  in  such  large  portions 
of  the  people,  requires  •  CQDOOlLmlKra  of  tin-. 

i  .:  frtocliam  in  fewer  and  higher  hands. 

And  it  might  be  plausibly  argued,  thai,  for  every 
new  manufacturing  text,  a  there  should  be  a  new 
rotten  borouiih,  inateud  of  reforming  old  rotten 
borOUghl  in  favour  of  new  manufacturing  towns. 
Without  pretending,  however,  to  insist  very  stre- 
nuously upon  this  rather  strong  position,  I  merely 
mean  to  point  out  to  foreign  reader*  die  princi- 
ple upon  which  the  mixed  mode  of  English  elec- 
tion* rests,  that  they  miy  not  vlioiiy  ascribe  to 
corruption,  and  consider  as  mere  abuse,  a  fortui- 
tous arrangement,  apparently  very  ir.rongrjuamg 
but  productive  of  real  advantages,  ii"  i>ot  suffered 
to  extend  too  far. 

The  just  proportion  of  popular  and  aristocra- 
tie  election  ;  ependd  much  more  upon  accurate 
observation  of  facts  and  practical  knowledge  than 
upon  abstract  principles.  It  j|  posiibk  thai  seme 
of  the  rotten  boroughs  ought  to  be  dislranchi ;.  <l, 
and  popular  rlcrtion  extruded  ;  hn;  I 
that  the  qualifications  of  popular  voters  ahuuld 
be,  at  any  rate,  very  much  raised  \  and  if  a  part 
of  the  weight  of  great  fortunes  were  taken  off,  as 
much  should  be  added  to  that  of  small  fortunes, 
to  render  the  influence  of  property  grc atrr  ifi  the 
mass  and  less  in  individuals.     In  fact,  none  but 


(substantial  and  independent  householders  ought 


J 


LDKDOK — BBIT!SU  COXSriTL  TIOV, 


147 


g 
h 

al 


to  have  a  vote.     A  nation  can  liardlv  be  very 

h,  and  have  a  vciy  crowded  population,  and 
in,  at  the  same  time,  a  very  popular  govern* 

nt.  It  aeems  but  too  evident,  thai  where  bolt* 
and  bare  are  necessary,  a  concentrated  and  strong 
government  \%  so  likewise.  This  very  question 
having  been  recently  before  the  public,  it  was 
llcgc<i,  that,  although  the  numerical  wealth  of 
the  people  liud  much  increased  within  lbs  last 
fifty  yean,  yet  the  ri.%e  of  price*,  and  increased 
style  of  living,  bad,  in  fact,  made  them  poorer 
and  more  dependent.  1  his  is  certainly  true  in 
/I'iiiil  in  :!u'  imtldfe,  and  in  part  to  tin-  Inglicr 
of  society;  but  an  increased  call  of  the 

b  upon  the  poor  for  labour,  is  necessarily  pro- 
ivt  of  more  indepem  BU  among  tiie  latter. 
A  greater  diffusion  of  knowledge  has  rendered 
public  opinion  more  formidable.  It  has  render, 
ed  a  greater  number  of  people  impatient  U>  act 
a  part, — desirous  to  lead,  and  not  to  l>e  led.  So 
far  t  stronger  government  SMSis  iRTttvary  ;  but, 
at  tlie  same  time,  its  abuses  arc  less  likely  to  be 
borne  tamely ;  and  with  force  to  repress,  justice, 
moderation,  and  wisdom,  ace  no  less  indispensa- 
ble to  conciliate. 

The  reformers  seem  to  consider  the  mode  of 
electing  member*  of  Parliament  an  the  origin  and 

iin  cause  of  all  the  abuses  in  the  government, 
but  it  appears  to  me,  that  tlie  danger  lief  much 


< 


141 


1-ovDON— wijisii  coKvrnt;  no.v. 


more  at  the  other  end.  The  government  ha* 
means  of  influencing  members  of  Parliament  al- 
iblc-  A  military  establishment  (army 
■lid  imvv)  of  half  a  million  Of  iimm,  a  debt,  ri 
venue,  and  expenditure  beyond  calculation,  ci 
able  it  to  iumaaa  at  picamre  the  numbes  ofii 
friends.  England,  indeed,  is,  at  this  moment 
under  a  sort  of  dictature,  which  it  would  not  be 
tail  to  confound  with  its  natural  and  habitual 
Mute.  Independently  of  the  mean*  Above  men- 
lioned  of  intiuciiciiiL;  DOttUm  of*  Parliament, 
these  reformers  reckon  about  sixty  members  in- 
fluenced before -hand  j — that  is,  who  arc  brought 
tutu  Parliament  under  previous  engagements  to 
vote  with  ministry,  in  honour  and  conscience* 
as  soldier*  obey  their  general ;  so  much  so,  that 
if  they  happen  to  be  seiaed  with  tome  extraordi- 
nary scruples  at  any  particular  measure,  and  stop 
short  oftheir  usual  subserviency,  they  ncvei  think 
of  voting  on  the  side  of  theircoiiseieniT, — I  mean 
their  natural  conscience  ; — their  political  coiwei- 
ence  does  not  permit  it,  but  they  give  up  their 
seat,  and  tl  in  in  ■  manner  worth  menttoi 
The  constitution  has  provided,  that  any  member 
a       |    ing  a  place  ever  so  smalt.  his  seat ; 

there  ban  insighMeani  place  called  Stewardship 
..i  -In  (  hdnrn  Hundreds  ;   1  do  not  know  exact- 
hat  it  is — not  enough,  probably,  to  corrupt 
the  foo<  man  oft  member  of  Parliament, — yet  it 


loxdox — British  coxS7itut:oh. 


14<» 


ta  the  place  commonly  given  by  :!u:  minister  Co 
the  scrupulous  member,  tor  the  express  purpose 
of  vacating  Itis  seat,  which  is  (Died  immediately 

a  more  accom  dor.     The  first 

n.ji:  ion  ufaieh  details  of  practical  polili 
undoubtedly  very  unfavourable  ;  and  a  rtnogtfi 
might  very  naturally  conceive,  that  the  British 
Parliament  i*  the  most  corrupt  legislative  assero* 
IjIv  that  ever  existed  : — lie  would  be  in  an  error. 
I  happen  to  be  personally  acquainted  with 
ral  members  who  have  purchased  their  scats  and 
who  would  hi-,  I  am  quite  !  inc*|wbJc  of 

icJliiig  their  votes  t or  any  private  emolument,  or 
advantage  of  any  sort,  as  of  taking  purees  on  the 
highway.  Many,  indeed,  of  the  opposition  mem- 
bers have  been  elected  by  the  obuoxiouj  bo- 
rouglis. 

There  an  great  numbers  of  wealthy  ind 
d»iak,  wlw,  without  anv  landed  property,  or  fa- 
mily influence  in  a  county, — bankers,  merchants 
great  uianufactuu-r-,  ibi  instance,  who  aspire  to 

S'lic  bououff  of  being  members  ol  I'arluinK'M,  ((or 
il  is  a  great  Imiunir,  —  not  at  all  lowered  in  pub- 
.filiation,  whatever  may  be  said  by  the  re- 
Uirnun*.)  I  do  not  know  how  much  love  for  the 
people  there  may  be  in  this  emulation  to  sit  in 
Parliament ;  we  need  not  calculate  upon  a  great 
il,  attd  may  suppose  a  mere  deajrc  for  person- 
al distinction.     Once  tlicre,  those  who  have  the 


LONDON'— MUTISM  CONSTITUTION. 


talent  of  public-speaking  take  part  in  the  de- 
bates ;  those  who  have  the  lew  brilliant  talent  of 
business  distinguish  themselves  in  committer*. 
Tin-  t-rcutrst  number,  Satisfied  with  M.P.  to  their 
names  and  the  |*ivilcge  of  franking  letters  for 
tl H  it  friends  seldom  attend,  and  come  only  on 
great  occasions ;  for,  of  658  members  who  com- 
pose the  House,  including  Ireland,  rarefy  more 
than  one  hundred  sit  at  one  time  ;  and  !  doubt 

her  the  Hoi»«c  would  hold  them  all.  Most 
of  the  member*  I  have  mentioned  incline,  as  rich 
men,  to  the  aide  of  government  ; — that  is,  to  the 
side  of  that  torcc  which  may  best  protect  tin  m 
against  the  natural  jealousy  o^  the  people,  w!h> 
would,  in  all  countries  1  presume,  strip  the  rich 
of  their  wealth,  without  being  much  the  better 
for  it-  Whenever  it  happens  however,  that  the 
government  gives  greater  cause  of  uneasiness  to 
these  cautious  *nd  generally  independent  per. 

than  the  people,  they  turn  against  it.  The 
(HSnst*;  members  are  always  I  believe,  men  of 
(iiimiikikl-  by  their  birth,  estate,  or  talents; 
and  what  I  have  said  of  the  more  wealthy  mem- 
bers applies  still  more  to  these.  As  to  the  class 
of  members  brought  in  by  the  ministers  they  are 
here  what  the  ru  incrtur  is  to  natter,  to  prevent 
I  Mxlies  from  being  too  easily  «lisp!aeed,---«Mid  there 

possibly  he  a  little  too  much  of  that.  The 
mimstershlwuld  neither  be  liublc  to  be  swept  away 


tOHDOV — hihtish  coysrrTUTtoN. 


131 


by  the  first  breath  of  popular  discontents,  nor 
capable  of  indefinite  resistance ; — for  instance, 
of  resitting  a  disapprobation  as  marked  as  the 
present.  Under  Mr  Pitt,  the  terror  of  the  no >pfc 
ki»pt  l\irlianient  in  subjection, — DOW  it  b  the  ter- 
ror of  Buonaparte.  But  when  that  cauae  ceases 
to  operate,  and  the  life  of  an  individual  is  nothing 
lo  that  of  a  people,  public  opinion,  like  a  vast 
stream,  will  carry  away  all  il >c  ministerial  dike* 
and  embankments,  and  again  occupy  its  accus- 
tomed channel.  «•  At  this  time,"  said  Dt  John- 
son of  the  ministry  of  Sir  Robert  U'alpoie,  -  a 
coarse  of  opposition  had  niled  tJic  nation  with 
clamour  for  liberty,  of  which  no  man  felt  the 
want,  anrl  with  care  for  the  consiituticHi,  which 
iot  in  danger." — I  fancy  much  the  same 
might  ttt  s.iicl  of  die  present  period* 

The  threatening  norma  of  faction  hovering  in- 
cessantly  over  the  British  horizon  ; — the  exag- 
geration of  debates  |— the  roisrepreseiiiHtiiii!-.  ci 
part  y-parwrs,.— give  to  this  country  die  ipp 
ancc  of  being  perpetually  on  the  brink  of  a  re- 
volution. It  seems  as  if  a  chief  of  sufficient  fame 
and  taJents  was  only  wanting  to  overthrow  the 
government,  and  establish  himself  on  its  ruins : 
—but  the  danger  is  more  ippaitnfl  than  real. 
I*t  us  suppose  the  individu  «H  qa ftlhled 

foe  such  an  enterprise  ; — let  Mm  have  great  mi- 
litary reputation,  eloquence,  skill  in  business 


152 


LONDON— M1TI3U  tlMOTtriOX. 


And  a*  Utile  morality  as  si:  occasions, — 

tUch  ft  man  will  naturally  Ik:  in  Parliament, — a 
career  sufficiently  tetupung  in  suppum:  that  lit- 
will  not  think  of  Hying  al  Jir^t  any  other,  at  the 
riik  of  discovering  himself  too  soon,  ami  arming 
all  the  power*  against  him.  An  ambitions  i -iti- 
/en  has  that  great  and  bright  path  open  before; 
hint,  awl  that  alone.  Onee  in  Parliament,  ami 
in  the  opposition,  Tor  they  all  begin  by  that,  he 
will  not  fail  to  haras*  the  ministers. — to  blame 
every  measure,— and  expose  their  total  incapa- 
city* Ml-  will  beoonfl  tbi  idol  of  the  people; 
and,  obtaining  at  last,  at  the  head  of  Jn\  part) .  I 
majority  in  Parliament  against  the  ministers,  he 
may  ultimately  force  them  to  retire.  Home  along 
by  the  ttream  of  popularity  too  pleasantly  to  think 
of  resisting  it  even  if  he  could,  lie  ami  bis  bit  mis 
will  natut.rlly  fill  the  places  ot  their  aDUgOfl 
and  he  will  become  first  minister. 

>t  supposed  he  will  diminish  the  taxes  r  rc- 
I  those  abuses  against  which  lie  nwd  v-  I 
claim?  bring  forward  a  reform  in  Parliament  I 
or  desist  from  those  secret  proceeding*  by  which 
ministers  secure  a  majority  in  Parliament  t  No* 
thing  less.  The  increasing  want  of  money  will 
probably  oblige  him  to  add  to  the  taxes  instead 

lueing  them.   The  times  will  be  discovered 

to  be  unpropitious  to  a  parliameutary  reform  ^ 

'  :'i.  i.iimtcrial  influence,  it  cannot  Ik  gi- 


loxdox — bbttish  coxsriTuno*. 


153 


vcd  op.  His  discarded  predecessor*  have  taken 
a  strong  position  on  the  left  side  of  the  house, 
and,  nlxcrving  hw  motions,  arc  ready  for  a  charge, 
on  the  least  opening  oi  hi.-*  ranks  t,p  weakening 
of  his  forces,  in  thi*  ultiwi.lc,  they  have  a  fine 
opportunity  of  retorting  his  own  principles  upon 
hun,  and  railing  at  his  hftfliBCCfkj«  ftom  that 
Ittriod,  accordingly,  the  popularity  of  our  hero 
wiH  decline,  and  ever}'  chance  of  usurpation  by 
means  of  the  people  be  lost  for  c\  er.  Hi*  talents 
and  influence  may  be  such  as  to  maintain  him  in 
the  ministry  nil  .  but  he  cannot  \>e  any 

limn,  i-.'-e  ;  and  should  he  be  nada  a  paar,  which 
may  not  be  difficult,  and  is  alv  y  tempt- 

ing, it  will  ooly  place  him  Ute  farther  from  that 
sort  of  power  to  which  usurper*  aspire. 

As  there  are  no  means  of  usurpation  by  the 
civil,  neither  are  there  by  the  military  ; — that  » 
to  Nay,  by  the  army,  for  the  navy  i*  out  of  Use 
question*  Tlie  aitnation  of  England  precludes  a 
great  military  establishment,  and  affords  few  op- 
portunities for  tlie  army  to  become  formidable. 
In  common  times,  it  is  a  sort  nt  weB-diaoipHned 
militia,  which  never  ma  sotvlee,  and  command- 
cd  by  young  men  of  fortune  and  pleasure.  Xliis 
army  is  never  assembled  in  a  body  in  the  country 
itself,  which  is  not  the  theatre  of  war  ;  and  if  it 
kIkjuM  hap|»en  to  be  employed  on  Uie  Continent* 


I 


IS* 


l.osDoy—  BiiiTJSii  coMsriruiios. 


Ami  to  be  commanded  by  a  general  who  did  very 
great  things  and  that  general  should  attempt  to 
come  home  like  Owr  at  the  lwad  o:  his  victori- 
ous army,  he  must  rirst  embark  his  troops  in  a 
fleet  of  transports,  at  the  mercy  of  the  naval 
fbm*,  and  collect  his  scattered  troop*  after  their 
boding,— a  measure  the  more  suspicious,  from 
being  without  a  pretence.  The  present  state  of 
England,  with  a  numerous  army  inured  to  war, 
and  commanded  by  a  great  general,  is  exactly 
the  case  supposed  ;  yet  the  impossibility  of  an 
attempt  of  the  kind  Kin-creding  is  evident.  The 
people  arc  averse  to  the  military;  and  circum- 
stances must  alter  prodigiously  before  they  ac- 
quire that  esteem  and  reverence  for  regimentals 
and  bayonets  which  prevails  in  Franca  An  ex- 
treme abuse  of  power  on  the  pari  of  goverumei 
might,  no  doubt,  produce  resistance,  revolutii 
and  usurpation,  as  under  Charles  the  First ;  but 
%  gratuitous  usurpation  i*  nearly  impossible.  The 
facts  stated  by  I>e  Lolme  to  prove  the  stability 
of  the  power  of  die  crown,  ajiply  ei|uallv  to  the 
stability  of  the  whole  constitution.  Alluding  to 
the  facility  with  which  the  great  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough and  his  adherent*  were  stripped  of  their 
power,  he  observes,  that  Hannibal,  in  circum- 
stances near!  r,  continued  the  war  in  spit< 
of  the  senate  of  Carthage.    Cceaar  did  the  same 


.O.VDOK — B3UTISU  COXSmirTlON. 


155 


tiling  in  Gaul ;  and  when  at  last  he  was  ordered 
to  give  trp  his  command,  he  marched  to  Rome 
nd  establiUbcd  a  military  despotism. 
Foreigner*  will  find  in  lliis  work  ot  IV  I»lmc'«» 
eoereet  anil  lurid  e\po*ition  of" all  that  w  m:u>- 
It  it*  them  to  know  of  the  O  :  on  and  the 

of  England.  It  K  much  tftflHDBd  by  the 
SnghMi  themselves.  The  whig*,  lwwever,  accuse 
him  of  mistaking  what  ought  to  be,  for  what 
&et;  and  it  mimi  be  acknowledged,  that  he  has 
seen  things  on  the  most  favourable  aide  ;  for  in- 
stance, be  say*,  "  1  he  exvCatire  power,  being 
placed  iruiivmljlv  in  tlte  hands  of  dim*,  every  other 
jn  is  interested  in  co»limit£  it  within  ifs  h- 
and  protecting  the  laws  against  its  abuse. 
law  of  habeas  «trp<ist  fur  instance,  is  dc- 
I  with  n%  much  r.eal  by  the  man  of  the 
highest  rank  as  of  the  lowest."  Then  he  con- 
tinue^, with  the  same  amiable  simplicity.  ••  The 
eiter  himself  »  as  much  interested  as  the 
estrithecn,  in  the  maintenance  of  those  law* 
which  Iritt-rly  is  founded  j  for  lit*  ItoWM 
that  caprice  or  faction  may  throw  him  again  into 
crowd,  and  that  the  hatred  of  hi*  successor 
ight  send  him  to  phM  away  in  a  prison."  There 
ling  in  this  reasoning  which  might  not  apply 
Richelieu,  to)  Wolacy,  to  Stafford,  or  any  other 
r»of  this  or  other  ::ni.ntrkfk  and 
many  people  here  would  say,  justly  or  not,  to 


\S6      LOKUOK— CI 


Mr  Pill.     It  does  noLap|KMr,  however,  tiiat  this 
a  Moderation  had  much  influence  on  Ufteuj 
duct. 

JprtlVQ. — Wc  have  had,  for  the  last  fortnight, 
a  serene  sky,  warm  sun,  and  not  a  drop  of  rain  ; 
the  thermometer  60°  tu  &S°.     The  horse-eheMnuU 
began,  about  the   15th  instant,    to  burst  ilu-ir 
large  glutinous  buds  at  the  extremity  of  i 
bough,  each  unfolding  now  its  ample  gTcen  um- 
brella, with  downy  ribs.     The  Jxmibardy  popJarj 
!.i   nut  forward,  and  do  mil  seem  to  grow  well 
The  beautiful  red  tassels  of  the  Juda  tree 
begin   to  shew    themselves   through   the    bark. 
II.ticvMicklc  and    roscbushe.s    arc  all    in  leaf, 
n  of  tiie  grass  is  less  striking  here 
than  in  America,  as  it  doc*  not  disappear  en- 
tirely in  the  winter.   The  lurk  is  heard,  but  not 
tin;  nightingale  yet. 

It  ia  vra  "go  to  Hampton  Court  to 

see  Raphaels  cat  touuK.  Tliey  are  admirable  fog 
greatness  of  composition,  drawing,  and  expres- 
sion. I  begin  to  think  that  Raphael  was  a  great 
man  sometimes.  That  of  Ananias  struck  blind 
delighted  me  most.  A  skilful  artist,  Mi  Hollo- 
way,  has  been  at  work  some  years,  engraving 
these  ear  toons  ;  Ik  is  now  employed  at  a  highly- 
finished  drawing  of  one  of  them,  from  which  the 
engraving  is  afterwards  to  be  made.  The  palner 
of  Hampton  Court  is  very  large,  divided 


LOVDOtf — HAMPTOK  COURT, 


157 


neveral  courts  two  gothir,  and  one  modem.     It 
n  thought  to  liavc  beauties  which  uc  coul.i 
discover.     The  site  b  fl.it,  the  garden  planted  in 
the  old  fashion  of  strait  walks,  and  trcc9  cut  into 
fthapcfl,  two,  animals,  &c.  or  rather  they  have 
been  ;  for  their  education  having  liern  neglect- 
ed for  some  years  past,   they  now  suggest  the 
idea  of  unlickcd  cubs,  with  their  long  hair  stick- 
ing nut  on  all  sides.     There  arc  some  fine  pic- 
m.i  |  in  thfi  apartment*,  by  Leonardo  . 
Salvator  Ilosa,  and  other  great  masters.  I  no 
four  large  pictures  by  Sebastian  Richy,  Lazarus, 
the  Last  Supper,  Sec.  which  I  thought  very  good. 
The  Prince  of  Orange  inhabited  this  palace, 
when  he  came  over  in  1795. 

A  new  panorama  is  now  exhibiting  in  Lon- 
don ;  it  is  of  Plashing.  The  spectator  is  placed 
in  the  nnih llr  of  the  town,  nn  Eta  top  Od  SOfliCi  high 
building  :  bo  ni  rockets  pierce  the  rooft  of 

the  houses,  which  arc  instantly  in  flames,  or  burst 
it.  the  middle  of  the  streets,  fall  of  the  dismayed 
inhabitants;  flying  from  their  burning  dwellings 
with  their  effects,  ami  carrying  away  the  rick  wnd 
wounded.  It  is  a  most  terrifying  picture.  At 
the  *:.ght  of  so  much  misery,  all  the  common* 
places  about  war  become  again  original,  and  the 
lamentations  cm  Milfratig  humanity 
oppress  and  he  soul,  as  if  they  were  utter- 

ed for  the  first  time.    That  feeling  of  lively  pity, 


13* 


LONDON' WOODfc-\.LKG«. 


contrasted  with  your  own  wife*;.,  i  listed  with 
iuch  force  and  nature  by  *>»«'  of  the  best  |>oets 
of  tbil  [Mii Heal  lam],  recurs  strongly  here  ; 

•*  ,\*k  the  croud. 

Who  t\y  faftptlftOal  Iron  the  «Ul«g«  w»lk» 
To  climb  ll  boorin*  ctifi*  where  far  below 

The  cnicl  »uhU  hire  huil'd  upon  the  coant 
Some  IwJplcn  burl;  vuilu  »acrud  ptiy  meiu 
Tba  gener al  oy*.  or  terror**  icy  hand 
Smite"  'In  if  l Minimi  liinU*  nul  horrent  hair, 
While  crcry  mother  clover  to  her  brcott 
Catche*  l*r  child,  uiul  painting  whew  th#w*re* 
Foam  through  th#  i  *•!,  afiriaJti  alootf, 

At  aorno  poor  wTeteh,  »ho  spreads  his  piteous  arms 
For  kuix'our,  iviillimcu'  L-,  | .  ng  *uige.** 

The  English  arc  great  in  practical  median  i 
no  country  in  the  world  arc  there,  pcrh:i| 
so  many  happy  applications  of  that  science,  I 
wight  say,  of  that  peculiar  sense,  of  thai  instinct 
of  the  human  specie*.    A  gentleman  of  the  name 
of  Mann  lit*  invented  a  womleulrt;  ofingCfl 
construction  ;  an  elastic  spring  wraps  round  the 
continues  under  the  sole  of  the  foot,  to  the 
y  of  the  toes,  in  such  a  manner  a*  to  imi- 
•  xactly  the  double  motion  of  these  parts  in 
Icing.     There  are  of  course  joints.     The  arti- 
liiuU  is  made  on  the  model  of  the  natural 
one  ;  it  is  hollow  ;  the  stump  hangs  in  it,  but  i< 
stopped  at  the  knee,  which  resu  in  a  sort  of  fun. 

30 


aa 


LONDON— MUSICAL  M-iCIIlN*:. 


15l> 


neJ,  so  exactly  adapted,  that  the  junction  does 
not  Appear,  and  that  the  pan  is  enabled  to  bear, 
witltout  any  inconvenience,  the  weight  of  the 
body  in  walking.  1  heard,  with  surprise,  of  | 
gentleman  of  our  acquaintance  having  01 
these  wooden-legs,  without  my  having  observed 
it  \  and  a  young  lady  in  the  same  situation  b  so 
slightly  lame,  thai  it  is  impossible  to  say  on  which 
aide  it  ia<  Mr  Mann  was  first  led  to  turn  his 
mind  to  this  subject,  from  a  desire  to  relieve  his 
own  brother,  who  had  lost  his  leg  below  the  knee; 
and  his  fraternal  aflcrtion  lias  in  the  end.  raadc 
in ■■  fortune.  I  do  not  kOO*  exactly  how  his  in- 
vention applies  to  cases  of  amputation  above  t  in* 
knee,  and  do  not  believe  he  can  have  found  ao 
good  a  substitute  m  that  case.  This  same  ingeni* 
t;u  person,  or  his  brother,  has  invented  a  musi- 
cal instuimeiit  with  chord*  or  strings,  in  the 
shape  of  a  grand  piano-forte,  and  with  the  same 
keys;  each  key,  when  touched,  liiU  one  oi  uY 
chords,  which  i*  brought  >ntact  with  a  bow 

Aein  of  horse  hair,  moving  continu. 
two  wheels  or  axes,  put  in  potion  by  a 

it.  There  is  here  more  *cope  for  skill  and 
taste  tlian  either  in  the  organ  or  the  forte  piano  • 
for  although  the  sound  of  the  pipe  of  the  organ 

lie  prolonged  at  pleasure,  it  cannot  be  modi- 
fied as  to  sirengh,  or  quality  of  sound  ;  the  piano, 
on  the  contrary,  is  susceptible  of  mollification  of 


160 


LONDON — PICTURES — VI  Gil  ISM. 


*ound,  by  the  manner  of  touching  the  key 
cannot  icceivc  duration  ,  whereas,  tflis  iusti 
meat  unites  Ik>:!i  advantages,—- the  sound  lasts 
as  long  as  you  touch  the  key,  and  its  quality 
varies  with  the.  Mrength  applied  by  tbc  dinger, 
precisely  as  on  the  vi<;  ii  .  The  chords  hcing 
very  large,  and  the  bow  powerful,  sound*  are  ob- 
tained similar  to  the  deep  bass  stops  of  the 
organ,  with  all  the  sol  m3  richness  of  the 

violoncello. 

Beside*  two  exhibition*  of  oil  pictures  there 
are  two  of  water-colours,  very  superior  to  the 
others  and  to  any  thing,  I  believe,  of  the  sort  in 
Europe*  It  seems  strange  thai  these  eminent 
trust's  should  choose  a  mode  of  painting  which 
has  great  disadvantages  inferior  capabilities,  and 
is  less  lasting.  But  this  U  a  female  mode  of 
ptl  liing  ;  the  only  practical  amateurs  of  the  art 
lurr  arc  women,  therefore  arti&ts  arc  to  look  for 
encouragement  from  them. 

Pugilisa  tegular  science  iu  England  as 

fencing  is  in  France,  lighting  for  the  sake  of 
improvement  is  called  sparring, — and  m  good 
earnest,  boxing.  In  sparring,  tin-  hand  m  cover- 
ed with  much  the  same  sort  of  glove  3*  in  fencing. 
I  lave,  been  taken  to  a  tives-court,  where  I  have 
seen  some  of  the  best  professors,  and  Borne  ama- 
tcure  of  this  noble  art,  spar.  Two  combatants, 
naked  to  the  waist,  ascended  a  theatre,  or  stage, 


LOXD0V — PUGILISM. 

fifteen  or  twenty  feet  square,  and  three  or  four 
high,  erected  in  the  centre  of  the  fives-court ; 
cacti  Itail    Iim  second;  they  shook  hands,  like 
the  solutK  in  fencing, — thru  mi  their  guard  ;  one 
foot  forward, — knee*  a  little  Iwat, — the  principal 
weight  of  the  body  on  the  foremost  leg,— fist  held 
to  tbc  height  of  the  chin,  at  the  distance  of  about 
a  foot     In  this  attitude  the  combatant*  observe 
each  other,  eye  to  eye,  watching  their  opportu- 
nity to  place  a  blow,  which  is  darted  rather  than 
struck,  with  the  back  of  the  hand  or  knuckles; 
a  moderate  blow,  well  planted,  gives  a  fidL   The 
blows  arc  parried  with  the  outside  of  the  arm, 
or  with  one  hand,   while  the  other  return:,  tin* 
blow.     The  pttgfliata  an  very  sparing  of  their 
strength  and  their  wind  ;  no  unnecessary  motion, 
—no  precipitation, — and,  above  all,  no  aogee 
One  of  the  first  requisite*  is  impossibility  under 
the  severest  bodily  pain.     Notwithstanding  the 
gloves,  blood  is  spilt  sometimes.   Among  the  per* 
formers  at  the  fives-court,  Cribb  the  younger,  GuU 
ley,  and  Belcher,  were  pointed  out  to  me, — all 
names  of  renown  in  the  art  They  were  not  stout 
men,  but  remarkable  for  activity  and  coolness. 
The  place  was  very  full — a  mixed  company  of 
people  of  all  ranks,     a  considerable  proportion  of 
men  of  fashion  ;  and  all  went  oil*  in  a  very  order, 
ly  and  quiet  manner.  The  sword  or  pistol  equal, 
strength,  and  secure  politeness  and  cirewn- 
i.  L 


in 


LONDOX PL'GIMSU. 


vpectioo  lietwecn  individuals  in  the  higher 

iH-n-iy ;  thi-  li*'  ausivers  the  »ame  purpose  bi 
twcen  tltc  high  and  the  loir.  A  gentleman  wcl 
taught  can  by  that  means  repress  and  punish  vul 
gar  insult,  when  supported  by  mere  bodily 
strength.  There  is  a  sort  of  courtesy  and  law 
ofooobftl  beray  :»'■»  Well  :ii  .11  :in.<rr  ck-mlly  i  in  fMin- 
tcr*.  You  arc  not  to  strike  an  enemy  on  the 
ground,  and  never  below  die  wain  ;  you  arc  to 
desist  the  instant  he  gives  out ■,  there  arc  never 
to  \tr.  two  against  one ;  and  other  rules  which 
soften  the  brutality  of  the  art,  and  give  to  tin- 
lowest,  in  their  violence,  some  tort  of  geofe! 
rosity  and  honourable  feelings.  When  two  men 
are  disposed  to  come  to  blow*,  nobody  thinks 
of  preventing  them  -,  but  the  populace  make  a 
'  ig,  and  see  fair  play.  1  was  conducted  a 
days  ago  to  Jackson**,  a  professor  of  pugilism, 
who  .keeps  a  school  for  the  fashionables  of  Loo- 
don,  lie  ix  the  finest  figure  of  a  man  I  ever 
saw  ;  all  muscle  •,  I  could  not  clasp  with  my  two 
hands  the  upper  part  of*  li  is  arm,  whim  tin:  biceps 
was  swollen  by  the  contraction  of  the  limb.  This 
art  has  like  «""  others,  its  technical  language. 
It  U  said  of  a  pugilist  that  he  is  game,  or  has  fc/- 
rom,  when  he  possesses  in  a  high  degree  passive 
courage  or  fortitude  ;  which  consists  in  l>e;iring 
blows  and  wounds,  aUen<led  with  the  most  dread- 
i   i    -uffinngs,  without  flinching  or  yielding,  as 


LONDON' — PUGILISM. 


J  65 


tcrc  is  breath.  A  now  beaten  flat, — an 
■Fit*  socket, — broken  ribs, — the  skin  and 
flesh  torn  and  streaming  with  blood,— and  still 
to  stand  and  make  head,  shews  a  man  to  be  game.* 
Game  is  literally  sport  awl  jest ;  therefore  this 
i»  understanding  a  jest !  It  is  worth  remarking, 
that  thc*e  pugilists  arc  obliged  to  live  regularly, 
and  with  sobriety  ;  and  that,  before  a  great  bat- 
tle particularly,  they  spend  several  week*  in  pre- 
pwttfcttBj  odkd  mioiD£  abrtaioiqg  fan  all 

strong  liquors,  even  beer,  uhmJ  practicing  conti- 
nually, but  withtiut  excess.  The  vi&dow  of 
print-shops  are  decorated  with  engraved  full- 
length  portraits  of  the  favourites  of  the  pugilistic: 
art  in  learned  attitudes,  and  in  uniform,— that  i.s 
to  say,  naked  ;  displaying  their  well-formed  limbs, 
the  fine  enirctccemcnt  of  their  muscles,  and  the 
graces  of  strength.  For  such  is  the  versatility  of 
grace,  that  it  is  equally  discernible  in  the  exer- 
tion or  the  repose  of  manly  strength,— the  rest- 
less impotence  and  awkwardness  of  childhood, 
and  the  fearful  modesty  of  a  young  beauty.  It 
might  be  difficult,  however,  to  make  Hercufa 
deep  gracefully,  or  a  delicate  nymph  wu-Id   his 


x 


•  Gymoutio  game,  requiring  strength  and  conitancy,  the 
_  juniion  i.(  ihcte  qualities  u  expreawd  by  the  word  x**mtf 
which  become*  an  adjccln-c ;  and  a  triad  cock,  dog,  or  nun, 
■»  jcamr.  Therefore,  although  game  literally  S»  play  and  nwt, 
•tv  a  TCry  acriotu  thing. 


Hi*         LONDON — EXHIBITION    OF  PICTURES. 

club  j  and  grace  may  probably  be  said  to  0OQ< 
sist  in  the  temperate  and  characteristic  exeicisu 
of  natural  and  peculiar  qualities. 

I  remember  to  have  seen  on  tbc  stage  in  France 
two  English  pugilist?  introduced.  They  set  to 
vci}'  amicably  j  one  of  thru  recoil  ea  such  a  good 
hit  on  th»*  mouth,  that  he  stops  (which  shews 
our  ignorance  of  the  art,  for  boxers  would  not 
stop  for  such  a  trifle,)  to  spit  out  half  a  dozen 
teeth,  one  after  the  other,  and  between  each  time 
turning  to  his  fiifinl,  with  a  look  of  lively  ami 
sincere  congratulation,  exclaims,  Ah!  k  Uau 
coup  depoiug! 

The  great  imnuu!  exhibition  of  pictures  in  80- 
iIuum'  Is  opened,  and  we  are  just  return- 
ed from  it.  I  own  I  did  noL  expect  10  much  un- 
it). I  recollect  an  immense  pictuxe  of  Mr 
Fuseli,  about  Hercules,  Theseus,  and  Pluto,  and 
every  thing  that  is  bad  in  drawing,  colouring, 
composition,  and  taste.  Mr  ( lopley  has  furnish- 
ed another  colossal  production,  the  1' 
Wales  on  horseback,— certainly  not  good.  JYIr 
West's  is  not  better.  Portraits  swarm, — and  this 
uninteresting  branch  of  the  art  is  the  be^t  here. 
:m  sci  end  delightful  portraits  by  Owen  and 
Phillips,  and  a  good  minut.un  by  Mr  Robertson. 
A  good  landscape  by  Louthexbourg.  We  were 
in  hopes  of  seeing  something  of  Mr  Wilkle;  but 
he  has  quarrelled  with  this  establishment,  and 


Tflt  YOCNO  IIOSC  it-. 


165 


there  s*  nothing  of  his.  Cosac  has  a  vrry  pretty 
picture,  representing  boyB  returning  from  school, 
not.  equal,  liowever,  to  his  u  Asking  in  Marriage" 
st  the  other  exhibition.  There  is  here  a  mixture 
of  water  colours  and  oil  paintings,  which  has  a 
paltry  appearance.  The  English  do  not  deceive 
i  n  :ii:;<lw  •,  ;u  ii  i  the  <tatc  ofthe  art  in  their  coun- 
try r  and  do  not  speak  of  the  exhibition  more  fa- 
vourably tbau  I  do.  Tncy  seem  to  wish  to  sec 
the  fine  arts  flourish  among  them,  aud  are  dis- 
posed to  give  every  encouragement,  but  they  do 
not  pretend  to  have  acquired  much  excellenci-, 
nor  indeed  to  attach  any  exaggerated  importance 
to  the  thing.  Jt  is  after  all,  a  mere  ornament  of 
the  great  social  fabric;  the  solid  mill  majestic 

uf  its  architecture  docs  not  require  it  abstt. 
lutely.  The  most  curious  thing  wc  saw  there  was 
young  Betty,  the  infant  Roscius,  whose  preraa- 
tun  reputation  filed  BngTantf aonae  jesnsgoj 
— «ot  his  picture,  but  himself.  He  is  a  great 
calf;  ill   made, — knock-kneed, — a  pretty  face, 

,  round,  and  nwy,  without  expression,  orany 
perceivable  trace  of  sentiment  or  genius.  I  sus- 
pect there  must  have  been  much  exaggeration  in 
the  fashionable  enthusiasm  displayed  on  the  oc- 
casion, aa  well  as  a  great  fluid  of  had  taste.  The 
cleverest  child  that  ever  was  can  at  best  mimic 
passions  which  he  never  felt >  and  at  the  height 
of  your  fallacious  rapture,  merely  his  face  and 
figure  afford  you  irrefragable  proof*  that  you  are 


: 


166     I.OKDOK — CHELSEA  HOSPITAL — AST/ I  H. 


thcdupcofa  shallow  counterfeit  and  perfect  in  wa 
tjficatiiin  uf  sentiment. 

The  military  asylum  at  Chelsea  is  *  very  fine 
establishment  for  orphan  children  of  soldier*  who 
have  lost  their  Uvea  in  the  service  of  their  coun- 
try.  This  edifice  is  remarkable  for  the  noble  sim- 
plicity of  the  architecture,  which  is  however, 
the  least  merit  of  the  establishment.  Seven  or 
eight  hundred  male  children,  and  half  that  num. 
bcr  of  girls,  all  looking  clean  and  healthy,  arc 
Uvc.nylit  up  here  by  Lancaster's  method.  The 
kitchen  is  a  la  RuntfonL  The  whole  work  of  the 
house  is  done  by  themselves,  and  the  current 
cxji:  ace  bul  tittle  compared  to  the  utility.  The 
building  iLstilf  cost  L.$OfcOOO  sterling.  W*c  saw 
die  boys  go  through  their  exercises  with  grtat 
precision  and  activity ;  the  young  officers,  wholly 
promoted  by  merit,  seemed  very  proud  of  their 
situation  ; — the  general  m  chief  was  an  old  sol- 
dier. Although  brought  up  militarily,  these  boys 
arc  allowed  at  a  certain  age  to  choose  another 
profession,— but  they  generally  choose  the  mili- 
tary. This  establishment  docs  honour  to  the 
Duke  of  York,  its  founder* 

iy  6. — I  have  just  seen  the  originals  of 
which  Mathews  gave  U*  a  faithful  copy  a  few 
days  ago,  in  Hit  ur  Miu> — the  very  barouche 
club;  the gendcmciucoachmci), with  half-a-dozcn 
great  coats  about   them,— immense  capes,— a 


OSOOK — BAROUCHE-CLUB — STAGB-COACHES,     167 


large  nosegay  at  tl\e  button-ho!:-, — high  mounted 
on  an  elevated  seat, — with  squared  elbow*, — a 
prodigious  whip,—- beautiful  horses,  four  in  hand, 
dram  in  a  tile  to  SaJthill,  a  place  about  twenty 
mile*  from  London,  and  return,  stopping  in  the 
way  at  the  several  public-houses  and  gin-shops 
where  stage-coachmen  are  in  the  habit  of  stop- 
ping for  a  dram,  and  for  parcels  and  passengers ; 
the  whole  in  strict  imitation  of  their  masters,  and 
making  use,  as  much  as  they  can,  of  their  ener- 
getic professional  idiom.  AIL  this  is,  no  doubt, 
very  ingenious  and  amusing.  But  let  tbeae gentle- 
men remember,  that  the  lowering  of  the  superior 
classes,  the  fashionable  imitation  of  the  vulgar, 
by  people  of  superior  rank  in  France^  under  rhr 
name  of  Anglomania,  was  oik  of  the  things  that 
contributed  to  bring  about  the  revolution.  The 
influence  of  rank  owes  much  to  the  delusion  of 
distance,  and  should  not  be  brought  too  near  the 
vulgar  eye, 

I  give  here  a  sketch  of  English  rtagc-coachc*  ; 
those  made  like  a  vessel  are  of  modern  invention, 


1 65         lOOTXJN— TM*ATm — MM  SIDDOWi. 

and  cany  most  or*  their  pattengcrs  inside.  I  have 
counted  on  the  ton  of  the  others  aa  many  as  se- 
venteen persons.  These  carriage*  arc  not  sus- 
pended, but  rest  on  steel  springs,  of  a  flattened 
oval  shape,  Ies»  easy  than  the  old  mode  of  lea- 
thern braces  on  springs.  The  consequence  of 
this  accumulation  of  weight  on  the  top  is,  a  dan- 
gerous tendency  to  overturn.  If  a  double  tier  of 
passengers  is  necessary,  the  lower  should  at  least 
be  very  near  the  ground.  This  lu*  been  in  part 
attended  to,  for  some  of  these  stage-coaches  car- 
ry their  baggage  belovr  the  level  of  the  axlctrec. 
I  have  again  seeu  Mrs  Siddons  twice ;  in  Henry 
VUL  and  in  Macbeth,  two  tragedies  of  Shake* 
•aeaofii  Henry  VUL  is  a  good  easy  sort  of* 
tyrant,  who  suffers  himself  to  be  grossly  imposed 
upon  by  Ml  minister,  awl  knows  nothing  of  what 
is  going  on  in  the  state,  till  his  queen  brings  him 
word,  telling  him  about  certain  commissions,  and 
taxations  and  exactions,  which  art  on  the  point 
of  producing  an  insurrection.  The  good  man 
turns  in  anger  to  his  minister,  Cardinal  Wolscy, 
another  simple  character,  whu  excuses  himself  by 
wying,  that  the  council  had  soouleml,  and  that 
be,  poor  soul,  having  only  one  voice,  could  not 
help  it.  The  kiug  makes,  on  the  subject,  some 
very  philosophic*!  :u  narks,  and  humane  to  a 
weakness,  on  the  subject  of  resistance.  The  Car- 
dinal, in  the  mean  time,  gives  orders  to  grant  all 


LOVDON THBATRR XRS  BIDDONS. 


Iffo 


I  ID.   Ml 

ir 

■  Oft 


■" 


people  ask,  and  that  it  may  appear  to  tie  by 
his  intercessions.  Henry,  however,  soon  shew* 
sell  a  little  more  in  character,  by  the  crafty 
ex  in  which  he  get*  rid  of  Queen  Catharine, 
order  to  marry  Anna  Bolcyn,  with  whom  he 
has  suddenly  fallen  in  love.  Wolscy,  who  always 
manages  him  as  he  pleases,  sends  a  great  Lord 
to  the  scaffold,  because  he  ha*  consulted  a  for- 
e-teller. At  but  his  turn  comes.  By  a  blunder, 
'.little  extraordinary  for  a  man  of  his  sort,  he 
under  the  eye  of  the  king  a  certain  un- 
document,  being  an  inventory  of  his  enor- 
mous ili-gotecn  wealth  ;  and,  as  misfortunes  ne- 
ver come  single,  a  letter  which  he  had  written  to 
e  Pope,  begging  h»  assistance  to  prevent  th.- 
marriage  of  the  king  with  Amu  Bolcyn,  is  in 
cepted.  The  king,  who  is  become  at  last  the 
Henry  VIII.  of  history,  aAcr  having  confronted 
Ui  eminence,  sends  him  away  to  read  these  un- 
fortunate papers ;  "  and  then  to  breakfast  toitk 
xshat  appetite  you  may  ;M  an  expression  which 
become  proverbial  in  English,  and  which, 
ough  highly  derogatory  from  the  French  no- 
tions of  tragical  decorum,  appears  to  me  strong 
natural  enough*  Tlic  raini-iter,  finding  him. 
irrevocably  disgraced,  turns  at  once  a  philo- 
and  a  saint.  The  divorced  queen  is  not  so 
cd  as  the  Cardinal ;  seated  in  a  great  arin- 
and  surrounded  by  her  women  and  attend* 


£ 


170  l.oNOON— «JUKCSP£AUB— MACBETH. 

ants,  she  fills  the  stage  with  piteoiu  lamentations 
during  m  good  half-hour  : — sleeps, — has  a  long 
HV  wakes,  scolds  her  servants  -r  and  at  last, 
to  the  great  relief  oi  tlte  audience,  withdraws  to 
another  apartment  to  die,  taking  care  to  Leave 
direction*  for  her  funeral.  The  bridal  queen, 
Anna  Boleyn,  has,  in  the  mean  time,  had  a  child 
already.  The  midwife  comes  to  bring  the  news 
to  Henry,  who,  much  rejoiced,  gives  hex  a  hun- 
dred marks ;  but  the  old  dame  thinks  it  it  not 
enough : 

Sud  I  for  Uiu,  die  girl  i%  hU'  t«  hmi? 
1  will  have  more,  or  cite  un**y'l  :— 

'fiiis  child  b  no  less  than  the  illustrious  Queen 
Elizabeth.  Shakespeare  lived  during  Iicr  reign, 
and  that  of  James  the  First,  and,  like  a  good 
courtier,  makes  Archbishop  Craamr  not  only 
predict  the  future  greatness  of  Elizabeth,  but 
also  that  of  her  successor,  as  gnat  as  hcnelf. 
It  b  worth  remarking,  that  this  prediction  was 
not  introduced  till  slier  James  the  First  had 
come  to  the  throne  1  TUs  play  is  certainly  very 
dull,  particularly  tin- seme  of  the  arm-chair,  and 
yet  it  is  for  the  sake  of  Qaoeu  Otharinc'x  part 
that  it  is  played.  In  Shakespeare's  time,  women's 
parts  were  acted  by  young  men,  and  he  gave 
ihcrn  few  considerable  parts ;  Mrs  Siddons,  there- 
fore, has  not  much  ebon 

it 


X.OKDOK — SHAKXSPEAttE— OMCBETH.        17  1 

The  tragedy  of  Macbeth  1ms  also  a  principal 
female  part,  but  quite  different  from  that  of 
Queen  C-ntharinc.  Marbcfh  i*  »  Scotch  *hief- 
reuurning  victorious  from  the  wars  with 
Btoqno  his  companion.  Crossing  a  wild  iteath, 
they  fall  into  an  ambuscade  of  witches,  who,  it 
seems,  have  placed  themselves  in  their  way,  on 
purpose  to  play  them  a  mo«  infernal  trick.  It  is 
Staidly  necessary  to  say,  that  a  witch  is  always  a 
frightful  old  woman  in  rags,  with  a  great  broom 
in  her  hand-  I  had  seen  these  dramatic  witches 
before,  and  the  part  h  not  always  understood  ; — 
a  bad  actor,  for  they  arc  men  in  petticoats,  is 
t  to  think  that  he  rnutt  play  the  fool  with  his 
and  his  broom,  and  that  he  is  there  to  make 
the  gallery  laugh.  Rousseau  said,  that  the  paste- 
board monsters  of  the  opera  of  i*arw  were  moved 
tby  a  blackguard  boy,  qui  ria  pas  Cesprii  de /aire 
la  btte ;  and  some  degree  of  talent  is  unquestion- 
ably necessary  to  do  even  these  things  well.  The 
witches  cannot  pretend  to  French  tragical  digni- 
ty, but  there  is  a  certain  low  sublime  that  the 
actor  understands  when  he  has  any  talents.  It' 
the  cavern  of  the  robber*  in  Gil  Bhus  could  be 
cnoseu  rot  the  scene  of  a  French  tragedy,  the 
old  woman  might  give  some  idea  of  this  low  su- 
hlir.ie,  injudiciously  excluded  from  our  stage. 

The  internal  ladies  predict  to  Macbeth  that  he 
it  to  be  Thane  of  Cawdor,  and  a  king  afterwa 


172        LOXDOK — SHAKESPEARE — MACBETH. 

and  to  Banquo,  that,  although  not  king  himself, 
his  posterity  will  bfe  kings — nnd  iheo  disappear, 
without  explaining  i:  farther.  Macheth 

hring  sixm  after  created  Thane  of  GttrilOT,  r»r- 
giita  to  have  some  faith  in  the  remainder  of  the 
prediction.  The  nnhridltd  ambition  of  Lady 
Macbeth  urges  him  to  secure  iw  fulrilnicnt  Uy 
the  murder  of  the  king,  who  is  come  to  spend  a 
night  in  their  castle. 


£*r>  M.  Was  tba  bop*  drunk 
ghawto  you  dre«t  jounclf  I  ITath  it  »lcpt  »ince, 
And  wakes  it  now,  to  look  so  green  and  pair 
At  what  it  did  »0  freely  ?     From  ttiiv  tiuio 
Suth  1  account  thy  love     Art  thou  afeard 
To  be  the  tome  in  thine  own  act  nnd  valour, 
A»  thnu  art  in  datirw  ?  Wuuld'rt  thou  lurw  tint 
Which  thou  e»uem'»t  ihc  ornament  of  life, 
And  live  a  coward  in  thine  own  esteem; 
I*cuinp,  •  I  dure  not;*  wait  DpOB,  ■  1  would?" 

Afaaa,  lV}ihee  peace  : 
I  dart  do  all  that  may  brcomr  a  roan ; 
Who  dare*  do  more,  ii  none. 

Lady  M,  What  bwut  wm  it  then 
"Dial  umde  you  break  thU  entorpruw  to  me  t 
When  you  ^tin,t  **"  It,  thrn  you  were  a  man  ; 
And,  to  he  more  than  what  yon  were,  you  would 
Bo  ao  much  morr  the  man.— Nor  time,  Dor  place, 
J)id  llicu  adhere,  and  yet  you  would  iuaU'  hutlu 
They  hare  made  themoe l»e»,  and  that  their  lime**  now 
Doe*  unmake  yon.    I  hate  given  luck  and  know 
How  tender  'lis  to  love  the  bono  that  milka  me  t 
1  would,  while  it  iroi  imilxng  In  my  aaOt> 


LOXDOX — saiKBtPEABB— MACBETH.        J  73 

Hare  ptarVii  my  nipple  from  his  bootless  gnu. 
And  dxuhc  J  the  brains  out,  had  I  w  awora 
Ai  tou  have  done  to  tliur. 

The  murder  of  the  king  renders  other*  i  we** 
sary  ;  13an«juo  is  one  of  the  lust  to  lie  removed. 
Become  more  cruel  by  the  recollection  of  their 
Is  of  cruelty,  and  urged  by  terror,  they  de- 
lude all  Scotland  with  blood.  At  lust  the  son  of 
the  murdered  king  returns  with  an  English  army, 
and  Macbeth,  forsaken  by  all,  i*  killed.  Ho  had, 
since  his  accession  to  the  throne,  paid  a  visit  to 
his  old  friends  the  witches,  whose  predictions  had 
;<*  well  is  their  own  accomplishment* sod 

found  them  employed  in  preparing  charms,  in 
their  dark  subterranean  abode,  assembled  round 
a  boiling  cauldron.  The  fire  sheds  its  pale  and 
livid  light  on  the  hagard  faces  and  meagre  hands 
of  three  midnight-hags,  mixing  their  hellish  drugs, 
naming  them  gravely  one  after  Ibc  oilier, — a 
monstrous  assemblage  of  all  that  the  wildest  fan- 
cy could  briox  together,  of  objects  fantastically 
hideous,  in  a  simple  age  that  dreaded  no  ridicule. 
And  I  own,  that,  far  from  feeling  any  inclination 
to  laugh  at  the  witches,  they  impress  me  with  a 
considerable  degree  of  horror.  The  double  mrun- 
of  their  prediction  is  always  such  as  to  urge 

[acbeth  more  and  more  to  his  destruction. 

Sacb  are  the  outlines  of  this  play.     Indepenr 
itly  of  its  tragical  beauties,  it  excites  a  strong 


J 


LOHDOX— SHAKEAPEARE — 1UCBET1I. 

interest,  and.  excepting  the  little  infernal  agency 
intermixed,  is  true  to  nature.  The  rules  of  Aris- 
totle, witlwut  bring  very  strictly  attended  to,  arc 
not  *o  outrageously  violated  aa  iu  other  play.  <>i 
the  great  English  dramatist.  The  principal  charm 
of  this,  as  of  all  hi*  works,  consists  in  the  case, 
the  liberty,  the  inimitable  grurr,  and  the  neuer- 
faOing  vigour  of  his  language.  He  plays  with  his 
ideas  flowing  abundant,  lively  and  deep  from  an 
inexhaustible  source. 

Mxa  Siddons,  as  Lady  Macbeth,  was  that  night 
a  merciless  tigress,  thirsting  for  blood  and  car- 
nage. She  goads  on  her  husband  to  the  consum- 
mation of  his  crimes  with  unrelenting  ferocity. 
Yet,  ailer  placing  by  the  bed- aide  of  the  king  the 
instruments  of  his  murder,  and  while  auxiou&Jy 
waiting  for  the  performance  of  the  deed, she  sayi 


Had  he  not  ntrinblcrf 


My  fattier  a*  lie  *irpt,  I  hod  dane't. 


This  unexpected  stmtimrnt  of  humanity  and  mo- 
mentary feeling  of  tenderness  crossing  the  mur- 
deress's mind,  like  a  flash  of  lightning  in  the 
darkness  of  the  storm,  i.«  expressed  without  pomp 
of  language,  and  rests  for  iu  effect  on  the  simple 
energy  of  the  contrast : 

A  tunny  blood  in  a  stormy  main ; 
A  ipot  of  azure  in  a  clouded  sky. 


• 


LONDON— SirAKKM*SA(U>— M  ^^  nt.TH.         17' 


Macbeth  himself,  a  prey  to  the  terror*  of  gtofo, 

thinks  he  heard  a  voice  ciy,  ■  Sleep  no  more  I" 
Towards  tl>c  cod  of  the  play,  when  the  cattle 
n  surrounded,  ami  all  the  delusive  dreams  of  am- 
bition have  vanished,  leaving  only  remorse  and 
despair,  I.ariy  Mnclwth  corner  out  of  her  iipart- 
fffefit,  walking  in  her  sleep,  paler  afld  ('.^liKVtlled, 
and  seems  to  lie  intent  on  rubbing  out  some 
stains  she  has  on  her  hands.  It  i»  blood  she  thinks 
ahc  see*,  and  tries  in  Tain  to  cflace; — her  dit- 
cowrse,  incoherent,  interrupted,  indicates  the 
strjtafroti  of  a  tortured  mind. 

n  Out,  damned  spot !  out,  I  say ! — one  ;  two ; 
why  tiien  'tis  time  to  do't ; — IIcIl  is  murky  !— 
Fie,  my  Lord,  fie  !  a  soldier,  and  afear'd  ?  What 
need  we  fear  who  knows  it,  when  none  can  call 
our  powef  to  account  ?— Yet  who  would  have 
thought  the  old  man  to  have  had  so  much  blood 
in  him  r 
Then  a  little  while  after  she  says  again, 
«  Here's  the  smell  of  the  blood  still ;  all  the 
fumes  of  Arabia  will  not  sweeten  this  little 
uid,— Oh !  Oh  !  Oh  !" 

Such  scenes  as  these,  of  which  there  arc  many 
this  play,  afford  the  greatest  scope  to  the  ta- 
it  of  the  actor.    Mrs  Siddons  and  Mr  Kcmblc 
[id  them  full  justice;  restoring  to  the  concep- 
tions of  tin:  poet  wh.it  the  iu.su  fliaency  of  langu* 


LONDON — SHAKESPEARE — MACBETH. 

age  bat  mad  u«t%  and  clothing  with  a  new 

body  the  shade  of  hi*  genius. 

The  death  of  Lady  Macbeth,  announced  by 
the  cries  of  her  women,  introduces  some  very 
beautiful  i»s«agcs,  wluch  are  translated  in  the 
French  journal,  but  mold  bfl  rdptrflutout  here. 
I  yielded  with  great  diffidence,  to  a  desire  of 
COOVtjiag  into  the  French  language  something 
of  the  hwiutic*  of  Shakespeare,  but  I  felt  too 
plainly  the  difference  of  the  two  language*,— and 
yet  Uut  is  the  least  difficulty.   For  the  thoughts, 
the  poetical  turn  of  mind,  of  two  nations  so  near 
and  »o  much  alike  in  many  respects,  differ  still 
more  than  their  respective  language* ;  and,  by 
a  tfngnial  cuntnulietion,  while  Inclines* and  rea- 
son form  the  respective  bases  of  their  supposed 
characters,  the  poetry  of  the  former  is  as  conspi- 
cuous tor  regularity  and  imperturbable  decorum, 
as  that  of  the  latter  is  for  exuberance,  licence, 
and  eccentricity.    An  inordinate  fear  of  ridicnlc 
i*  the  passion  of  a  cultivated  age,  and  rule*  in 
France  with  more  force  than  anywhere  else,  not 
the  less  incurred,  however,  in  many  respects,  for 
idotnwy  avoided. 
«  On  est  hnnteux  ilea  ft&C  brttl  devanl 

les  anies  Icgi'res;  I'cnthousiaaine  en  lout  genre 
est  ridicule  pour  qui  ne  l'cprouvc  pas ;  la<  po*  sic, 
lc  denouement,  I'amonr,  U  religion,  oot  la  meme 


LOVDOX — TBEXCn  AND  EXCU5H  TR  \  177 

oiiginc.  Hori  Jc  join  de  sod  existence  toutpcut 
t'cre  illusion,  ou  petit  ctrc  suppose  id-" — 
tic  Stad. 

*'  II  y  a  sou vent  ilans  lea  chore-  it  paroit 

i  idicuk  an  Yulgaiie,  UB  coin  ili'.gni;  1 1 > ■  do 

k  fait  apercevoir  qu'aux  bom  toe*  de  genie." — 

It  appears  impossible  that  the  French  and  the 
English  should  ever  agree  on  the  cornparuivL- 
merits  of  their  tragedies.  Their  standards  of  ex* 
cellcncc  arc  too  diticrcnt.  The  period  of  poeti- 
cal inspiration  seem*  to  have  come  too  soo: 
die  one,  and  too  late  tor  the  other.  The  um 
and  rigurous  decorum, — the  pomp  and  servility 
of  ti  <>l  lx»ui  i  \  I V.,  checked  the  flights 

of  Corncillc  and  of  Racine  ,  the  rudeitcw  ami 
bail  taste  of  the  age  of  Queen  Elizabeth  olmcu* 
red  the  genius  of  Shakespeare  It  had  been  hap- 
py it  tiic  French  poets  had  appeared  a  century 
earlier,  and  die  English  hard  a  century  later ; 
before  taalc  was  over-refined,  and  when  it  bad 
ceased  to  be  barbarous; — when  genius  in  the 
innocence  of  early  youth,  knew  not  shame  ;  and, 
yielding  to  it<  first  delirium,  said  all  it  felt,  and 
felt  nothing  that  it  could  not  say; — habitually 
simple  and  ingenuous, — often  lofty  and  inipm- 
Morwd, — senl  J or  profound,-—  larti 

only,  and  unequally,  as  In  nature*    The  French 

vor.  ■.  " 


178  UOXUOtf — JJUlNUi  AND  EXGUU  TRACXDICS. 

tragedy  has  none  of  these  inequalities ;  the  Eng- 
loo  many  of  them,  and  too  strong.  The  one 
is  uniform) j  declamatory,  and  magnificently  mo- 
notonous,— the  other  too  offen  absurd,  low.  aaui 
disgusting.  Those  whom  the  prejudices  of  edu- 
cation, and  long  habits,  have  reconciled  to  either 
of  thew  defect*,  UC  the  Don  incapable  of  tole. 
r;Uing  Hk  contrary  ones ;  and  it  would  be  in  \nin 
to  try  to  bring  thcru  to  the  same  opinion.  If,  how- 
,  the  tWO  nations  receive  similar  impressions 
from  their  respective  Uageilh '*,  dissimilar  ;is  they 
ore;  if  1  he-  same  cfleet  is  |iroduced  by  ditl 
means  they  may  be  allowed  to  (eel  and  enjoy  in 
r  own  way.  The  human  heart  is  accessible 
by  more  than  one  avenue.  "  Quaod  unc  lecture 
vouseleve  I 'esprit,"  sty*  La  Bruyexc,  "  et  qu'clk 
vow  '!<"•  sentitnens  nobles  ct  couragcux, 

oe  clterchc/  pus  une  autre  regie  pour  juger  de 
&'  outrage, — il  e»l  bon,  et  de  maiu  de  uuitre." 
iticasm  on  objects  of  taste  is  after  all,  little 
more  conducive  to  a  login a  u  iisb  of  their  beauty 
than  dissection  is  to  a  higher  relish  of  the  beauty 
of  the  person.  I  do  not  know  whether  the  ig- 
norance of  every  language,  every  literature,  or 
every  poetry,  but  one,  is  not  nccesaary  to  pre- 
serve in  all  its  energy  the  relish  of  that  one,  and 
to  prevent  any  part  of  the  happy  delusion  from 
being  dissipated.  As  the  amor  pa  trier,  in  its  full 
force,  exists  onlv  tor  those  who  never  travelled, 


L0ND0X— SI*  FRANCIS  ftUBDXTT. 


ITS 


is  generally  some  pleasure  lost  by  being 

There  is,  in  the  play  of  Henry  the  Eighth, 
something  about  imprisonment  in  the  Tower, 
and  about  the  Guard*.  The  public  caught  the 
allusion  to  Sir  F.  Burdclt's  situation,  and  there 
was  a  good  deal  of  clapping  ud  hiding.  The 
former  had  die  advantage  j  but  1  eauuot  tell 
whether  it  was  tor  or  against  Sir  Francis  1  had 
honour  <>1  diuing,  a  few  days  ago,  with  a 

ly,  a  great  oppositionist,  and  even  a  reformist, 
admire*,  of  course.  Sir  Francis,  and  las  paid 
hkn  a  visit  in  the  Tower-  One  of  the  gucits,  a 
dignitary  of  the  established  church,  and  anti  re- 
former par  metier,  out  of  patience  '*ith  all  thi . 
tenderness  for  Sir  Francis,  attacked  him  violent- 
ly, and  hfe  talents,  as  well  as  political  principles 
and  motives.    He  aaid,  among  other  things,  that 

te:r  Francis  had  been  his  pupil  at  college,  and  a 
„rcat  dunce  ;  that,  however,  after  he  was  grown 
up  and  married,  he  had  bethought  himself  of  his 
own  ignorance,  and  taken  the  desperate  rc*o!u- 
>n  of  returning  to  school,  or  at  least  resuming 
studies.    He  took  tor  that  purpose  h  pm-qit- 
a  Frenchman  of  some  literary  reputation,*  to 


•  T2u  author  »  informed  that  Mr  Chevalier,  wrll  known  in 
Vance  by  hit  lltarary  talcru*,  till  rctpcctobld  charactrr,  aw? 


i 


ISO 


■OS THE  TO"  Eft. 


v.  hum  be  aJIoued  L..50O  Mterli:  u,  as  a  re- 

action for  all  the  political  philosophy  hcac* 
*  jiiircd  under  him,  and  of  which  he  has  since  made 
sueh  a  splendid  display.  He  owned,  however, 
that  the  patriot  was  mild  and  benevolent,- 
nerou*  landlord,  and  good  master.  As  an  ora- 
tor, Sir  Francia  is  acknowledged  to  have  coi>m- 
dflrifalt  talcuta.  Aa  a  statesman,  his  zcaJ  is  cer- 
tainly more  conspicuous  than  lus  prudence  or 
judgment  By  aiming  at  too  much,  he  will  do 
nothing;  and,  wasting  hi*  means  in  skirmishes, 
lie  will  never  achieve  a  great  victor}*. 

\\>  bavo  bean  frustrated  in  an  attempt  we 
made  to  sec  the  Tower,*— a  deputation  of  the  li- 
ver}- of  London  having,  unfortunately  for  ua,  ta- 
ken tl>e  same  day  to  present  an  address  to  the 
surTcring  patriot.  Hie  concourse  of  people  m 
prodigious ;  and,  far  from  being  able  to  pene- 
trate, we  thought  ourselves  fortunate  in  exi 
ting  ourselves  from  tin-  rniv.d  without  accidi 


l^rucuUrlj  hii  rejalipb  raanife»tc4  throughout  tho  French 
revolution,  »:i»  the  pennn  chnirn  hy  Sir  FrancJl  Uuideii  li> 
(tlrcct  his  ttuditc  at  0i«  period  alluded  to,  and  that,  potwita- 
hc  wide  ditference  o!  political  opinion*  which  win* 
to  raid  between  the  mn»ter  and  the  pupil,  they  h;m*  i ■;. ■■• 
irft«emitu*l  e^ccni  utd sttachmet :  Am   Sir  Kreit- 

*'«  bUowh  3l  tn""  URMlSBli  fifty  fwiind*  B-ytar  t«  >* 

I  is  author  undentnn dt  to  be  the  correct  fact  to  which  ihe 
uuuw  Anecdote  mutt  In 


MHVWK— ST  VAVtS*. 


n. 


Tliis  Tower  appear?  a  confused  heap  of  roofs  and 
chimrrie*,  surrounded  with  a  wall  and  a  di 
broad,  deep,  and  lull  of  water.   We  shall  choose 
a  better  lime  for  another  visit. 

Returning,  wc  *to]  Mtul's.    My  3d- 

iftiifttion  od  this  ma^iiiiic-eiu  temple  is  not  «*imi- 
nrshed.*     Its  interior  is  thought  nuked  and 
mshed.   I  was  nevcrtheleM  struck  with  i 
iiesa,  which  loses  little  by  the  want  of  minute 
ornaments.    Naval  trophic*  Iwng  down  from  the 

le  of  the  dome.  I  <\o  not  know  whether  these 
*ort  of  ornament*  are  very  appropriate  to  the 
ritof  Christianity  |  Ntrf  v.Im  rebgion  in  pit- 

.  |-uhli.!j>irit^ain5inen(  :rf,ii»thi« 

ago,  the  exchange  may  be  necessary.     Through 
an  iron  grate  in  the  pavement  under  the  dome, 
we  observed  a  light.    It  is  a  scpulohral  vault, 
where  the  remains  of  the  naval  I 
have  bceu  deposited.    Workmen  were  prep 
a  place  by  the  aide  of  Nelson,  for  his  friend  and 

i[iatii»m  inarms,  Admiral  ( Villi  rtgwoud.  Thr 

ighl  of  being  buried  in  Westminster  Abbey 


S»  Paul's  fcruiTt  bj  Sir  C.  Wren,  6ni*V«1   mo*  »•»  S5 

in  buildup,  sod  cok  L.7S6/7W  ttcrling.     It  n  SCO  fm 

250  wills;  tlia  •aaiinit  u)  -  v  MO  lus"  ;  it»  c«- 

diaratter  I*:  foci.     St  P«t«'f  of  Home  wm  I35)ean 

buildup:  ii  is  :2»  feci  laiifr  Set  wide,  and  S3"  f-*'t  hi  l'  '» 

'i>ccroi*. 


ISi 


L0NDOX— LORD  XKLSOX. 


seems  to  have  occupied  setae  of  the  last  moments 
of  the  hero;  instead  ot'tJtat,  he  is  made  here  die 
fouiidc.  of  a  new  dynasty  of  the  dead.  A  great 
nunc  was  necessary  to  cousccratc  St  Paul's— 
none  could  be  better  for  the  purpose. 

■  excessive  vanity  of  Lord  Nelson,  and  some 
other  errors,  tarnished  a  iiuic  die  glory  of  his  last 
years.  lie  loved  to  shew  himself  all  over  rib- 
bons, and  orders,  and  wounds,  and  rcvcllc.i  in 
popular  acclamation*.  It  was  the  salary  of  his 
labours,  and  be  was  not  ashamed  to  stretch  out 
Jus  hand  to  roodiflQ  it-  Wat  avail,  after  all, 
crosses  and  ribbons,  and  glorious  wounds  if  not 
to  be  shewn  t  'I 'hat  pleasure  is  frit  by  all  mtn  ; 
it  spring*  equally  Jruiii  tlie  weakness  of  our  na- 
ture, and  from  its  greatness  j  and  it  may  be  more 
estimable  to  own  the  feeling  than  to  disguise  it. 
Lord  Nplson  was  U>us  decorated,  resplendent 
with  the  outward  budges  of  greatness,  when  he 
ved  his  mortal  wound  on  the  deck  of  the 
tv  at  the  buttle  of  Trafalgar.  It  made 
conspicuous,  and  probably  caused  hia  death.  He 
lad  been  warned  and  knew  the  danger,  but  would 
have  it  so.  He  had  sacrificed  his  limbs  and  his 
Lb  }u  win  the  p;i/.e,  and  now,  at  the  peril  of 
life,  he  would  show  it  to  die  enemy •—  a  mag. 
n.iniinou*  sort  oS  vanity ! 

Tlic  following  day  wc  went  again  to  St  Paul's, 
to  hear  a  grand  oratorio  foi  the  benefit  of 


LOXDOtf—  HANDEL— ST  STEPHCn's.  183 


of  the  clergy ; — (the  sons  of  the  clergy 
sounds  a  little  strange  to  a  French  car.1  Hnnd< 
music  appears  hi  me  a  line  and  learned  harnw 
without  chant, — without  melody, — x  succession 
of  fine  Rounds,  which  express,  or  rather  Inspire 
nothing,  and  with  which  I  war  soon  tired.  Thb 
great  composer  was  here  the  founder  of  a  lort  of 
national  school  of  music  ;  and  it  is  sacrilege  not 
to  acknowledge  his  merit.  I  will  not  decide  has- 
tily j — but  it  b  riot  tin.-  first  time  I  have  had  the 
-m 'fortune  to  be  tired  of  Handel's  music.  "  Le 
pfaisfr  deriiarmojiie/'say*  J.  J.  Rou^vau,  •»  u'est 
qu'un  plaisir.de  pure  sensation,  ct  U  jounstnec 
des  sens  est  toojowcoufta — la  nti&lel  I'eDnai 
U  snivent  d«  pries  ;  main  le  pin  ■  ir  de  In  mrlnrltn 
et  du  chant  est  un  plaisir  d'inllret  ct  de  seiiti- 
■eut,  (|»ii  iiarle  au  coctir,  ctquc  Tartistc  pcut  tou- 
jour* soutenir  ct  rcnouvcjlcr  h  force  de  g^nie." 

Returning  from  St  Paul's,  we  stopped  3t  a  lit- 
tle church,  St  Stephen's,  Walbrook,  the  interior 
of  which  is  considered  as  the  most  perfect  model 
of  pure  and  chaste  classical  architecture ;  and  it 
certainly  deserves  all  its  reputation.  It  is  also  the 
work  ot  Sir  <  .  Wren.  TV  ptfakto  of  this  benu- 
■  covered,  epiite  crusted  Liver,  with 
shabby  houses  stuck  agaiu&t  its  walls. 

Parliament  has  been  empjnvi d  tin  i  on 

a  very  interesting  subject.  Sir  Samuel  llomilly, 
who  is  a  very  eminent  lawyer,  as  well  as  a  dis- 
tinguished member  of  Parliament,  but  who  »  ac 


16*  LONDON' CRIMINAL  LAW. 

■•lined  of  thinking,  with  Lord  Bacon,  that  time  * 
the  giealc*i  of  innovators,  and  that  it?  sugges- 
tions should  not  be  resitted,  proposed  to  com  mute 
certain  cases  capital  punishment  (death)  fbff 
hsnishment  and  imprisonment.  He  warn*  idso 
to  define  crime*  more  particularly  than  the  laws 
do  at  present,  and  to  circumscribe  the  arbitrary 
power  of  infliction  given  to  the  judge,  and  which 
extends  at  present  from  a  few  months  imprison- 
rnent  to  die  pain  of  death,  fa  He  denon*i- 

nation  of  Crime.     Tin  i;il  Code  of 

jrbfcd  \\  he  said,  the  most  sanguinary  in  cx- 
,-nce  ;  it  condemns  to  death  a  person  at  eating 
to  the  value  of  live  shilling*  out  of  a  shop,  or 
forty  shilling!*  nut  of  n  IwxU,  or  a  public  landing 
place.  Fortttcnu  iqnnis  flial  under  Henry  VI. 
there  were  more  people  «  I  for  robberie* 

in  England  in  one  year,  than  i.i  Prance  in  sewn. 
During  thereignofElirabeth,  execniionsamoniii- 
ed  to  400  a-ycar,  which,  for  ♦$  years  of  her 
reign,  given  the  frightful  lota!  of  lS.nno  etecu- 
tion*-  But  that  was  nothing  to  her  fattier, 
Henry  VIII.  :  tlic  executions  were  then  gOOO  a- 
year,  being,  for  3$  years,  70,00)  men  pirt  to 
death  ;— what  a  carnage!  An  eminent  magistrate 
of 'the  county  of  S  r,  who  wrote  in  I5!>6\# 

that  ia  to  say,  towards  the  end  of  the  reign  of 

•  IIui 


t 


\ 


J.OXDOX— CILIMDfA 


and  when  tlic  authority  of  her  govern- 
lent  had  acquired  nil  iu  itrcogtli,  and  the  peo- 
ple a  certain  habit  of  order  and  labnuatioa  to 
the  hiH.s  States*  Jut  there  liad  been  -M)  criminals 
Qgacuted  in  that  courtly  in  the  course  of  one 
lar  for  £  9  burnt  iu  the  hand,  37  whip- 

ped, and  163  acquitted,  and  that  the  acquitted 
were  most  or'  them  not  much  better  than  the 
others;  that,  moreover,  there  *MB  not  one-fifth 
ot  the  guilty  who  were  brought  to  trial,  the  num- 
ber being  ho  gTcat,  that  trie  rrugiitratcs  were 
afraid  of  then).  Hume,  who  loved  atitho: 
ascribed  this  imperfect  police  to  the  inadequacy 
of  the  revenue  of  the  crown,  which  did  not  af- 
ford the  means  of  interesting  a  sufficient  number 
of  people  in  the  mairrtcnanoc  of  power.  How- 
r\rr  th  .i  may  be,  it  appear,  hv  il.*  ili'Iintcs  on 
this  question,  that,  since  that  time,  and  with 
any  mitigation  of  the  laws,  the  number  of  the 
execution-  has  diminished  successively,  and  so 
v,  tliat  in  1 8oG,  of  $42o'  person*  committed, 
there  were  only  two  criminals,  executed.  In  i$07, 
S4y3  commitments,  and  only  00*  execution.  In 
1B0S,  37*8  commitments,  and  not  a  single  exc- 
:ution.  it  is  not  credible  that  out  of  more  than 
JO|000#  persons  committed  on  grounds  deemed 


*  It  appear*  by  the  debate*,  tin  one  only  out  uf  23  of  ova* 
'Vmnr  u  tut  been  csscittfld,  Ihtrefdrt  the  10.000 

rnmuiifiittfit*  above-mentioned,  !ifc»e  produced  67  condemna- 
ihcss  throe-  execution*, 


i*t> 


LONDON— CftlNISTAL  LAV. 


sufficient  by  magistrate*,  three  only  should  be 
guilty ;  therefore  we  must  suppose  that  the  ex- 
treme severity  of  the  laws  prevent*  their  execu- 
tion. No  act  ran  he  snore  solemn  than  that  of 
itg  sentence  of  death,  and  yet,  from  the  fre- 
quency of  the  thing,  and  the  tew  rate*  in  which 
that  sentence  is  carried  into  execution,  this  aw- 
ful act  has  ceased  to  excite  any  terror,  any  pity, 
or  even  any  attention.  The  criminal  himself 
docs  ivol  believe  in  it  *,  and  the  order  for  his  exe- 
cution after  thb  encouraged  hope,  would  be  a 
merit  nl  cruelty,  anil  an  absolute  injustice. 
'lite  Master  of  the  Holla,  who  is  a  magistrate 
only  second  in  rank  to  tl»e  chancellor,  remarked, 
that  the  extreme  severity  of  the  penal  law  pro- 
•1ui:l*c1  a  tacit  »)steni  of  evasion,  by  which  the 
accusers*  the  jury,  the  judge,  and  finally  the  King's 
counsel,  join,  each  in  his  department,  in  viola- 
ting their  oath  to  execute  an  unnatural  law. 

!  Crt  h  certainly  something  wry  faulty  in 
sj|  mis ;  and  when  an  unanimous  sense  of  justice 
has  in  fact  abrogated  a  law,  it  ought  not  to  re- 
main in  the  code.  The  certainty  of  a  moderate 
punishment  has  more  cflect  than  the  doubtful 
po«N  a  severe  one ,  and  finally,  this  sys- 

tem substitutes  arbitrary  decisions  to  positive 
laws.  To  all  these  good  reasons,  and  against 
ihc  opinion  of  the  most  respectable  members 
of  the  Home  Of  Common*,  the  ministers  have 
opposed    their    impenetrable   phalanx, — and    I 


DOK — CtU:41Nai,  LAW. 


1*7 


redly  do  not  know  why,  as  they  do  not  seem  to 
have  any  interest  in  U.  There  wai  a  small  ma- 
jority against  Sir  Samuel  Konully's  motion,  ile 
will  bring  on  the  ijuesliou  again  in  another  afaspi 
and  good  sense  and  justice  must  triuaiph  at  las 
Mr  Windham  spoke,  as  usual,  extremely  well 
against  the  law  a*  it  is,— and,  at  the  same  time, 
against  its  reformation. 

These  ia  much  to  say  against  the  custom  of 
banishing  criminals  PWtiflpUffr  to  such  a  prodi- 
gious distance  as  Bouny  Bay,  The  cxpenct 
coormous;  it  is  a  great  charge  upon  the  public  ; 
and  Uic  good  citizeus  have  a  t\%\\i  to  complain 
that  rogues  should  be  sent  to  travel  at  their  e 
pence.    It  nay  be,  after  all,  a  mistakes  mercy 

Elet  them  live.     What  a  modern  writer  juady 
Lebratud  baa  said  an  at  rigorously  of  the 

mi   i   poor,  might  be  said  of  these  felons  with 
much  more  propriety :  "  At  nature's  migh '. 
there  is  no  vacant  scat  for  them."    I  own  I  did 

Ct  expect  to  rind  here  a  system  >i  ci  »iin  I 
iiiLuiiMstcut,  so  cruel,  and  at  the  same  time  so 
relaxed  >  and  yet  the  end  seems  answered,  for. 
with  an  unarmed  police,  which  is  neitl  ••  n  nor 
felt,  there  arc  no  perceivable  di  »rd  :i  tuul  no 
violence  except  thou-  occasioned  by  political  fac- 
tions. Instead  of  tlse  positive  and  unbending 
'."iiaracter  generally  ascribed  to  the  i  law, 

(  find,  that,  in  practice,  it  i*  arbitrary,  and  hard- 


1 


I8S 


SLJtHEY — COUNTRV, 


IjT  under  any  other  rule  than  the  common  sen* 

of  mankind.     Xlte  noble  institution  of  thr  jury 

nn  one  fund,  and  on  the  other,  the  right  of  pari 

.  the  sovereign,  correct  all. 

Mcty  Sa — Wfl  have  made  our  first  sortie  from 

London,  to  sec  what  the  spring  was  out  of  its 

smoke  and  dust,  30  miles  orT,  in  the  county  of 

Surrey.   The  surface  of  die  country,  gently  wm- 

.  iscorcrcd  with  pasturage  of  thcrincstgrcen, 

with  numerous  flocks  of  sheep,  md  herds  of  cst- 

tlc  ;  here  and  thene  grove*  of  forest-tree*,— hut 

I  rod,  few  iiicloMires  and  vast  extent* 

of  heath v  common*.     Ail  this  is  xcrr  beautiful, 

and  pleases  me   extremely ;    but  surprises  roo 

Iv.  So  near  this  Colossus  of  a  town,  with 
its  600,000  mouths  to  feed,  I  should  have  expect- 
ed to  lea  everywhere  fields  of  coin  for  men,  and 
.1  sainfoin  for  animals;  everywhere 
the  plough,— no  trees  but  fruit-trees,— «o  pa* 
lures,  and,  above  all,  no  heath.  Mc  do  not  lose 
certainly  by  the  exchange  ;  but  I  do  not  nmlcr- 

•  liuvrthc  proprietor*  of  this  valuable  laud  cal- 
culate.    I  should  suppose  that  all  this  beautiful 

try  belongs  to  people  of  fortune,  who  think 
more  of  its  beamy  than  its  produce,  and  the  eon- 
jeeturcisvery  much  n  fted,by  thcappcar- 

of  multitudes  of  good-looking  houses,  half. 
mansion,  half-cotta^e,  but  evidently  inhabited 
by  persons  of  taste  and  opuh  r; 


SURREY — LEini  HILL — SPRING. 


139 


Weston  two  ttisHts  of  twelve  feet 
ice ;  several  el  ins,  and  a  young  oak 
exceeded  that  size ;  the  branches  of  a  ehesnut 
covered  a  space  of  a  hundred  feet  in  diameter, 
We  were  taken  to  a  hill,  (Lcith  Hill)  1000  feci 
above  the  level  of  tlie  sea»  from  whence  there 
is  a  most  extensive  view  : — North,  tin  dOflM 
St  Paul's,  shrouded  in  unofco,  and  even  Han  p 
stead  and  Ilighgate  beyond ;  south,  a  short  bright 
streak  in  the  horizon,  seen  on  a  clear  day,  and 
which  is  l  lie  sen-     The  two  cXtrc  !  .onrion 

and  the  si*;i,  an*  hi  njiart  ;  llic  rye 

ouniin:  ■  whole  interval.  Tliia  spot  is  usajk- 

ed  by  u  tower,  built  by  an  Lnuuurabie  genfJeinun, 
member  of  several  succcwive  Parliaments,  who  is 
buried  here,  and  has  secured,  by  this  means,  an 
immortnl-.ty  which  he  was  afraid  the  ingratitude 
of  his  country  might  refuse  to  his  long  services. 

The  spring  has  been  here  cold  and  tare ;  liorse- 
chesnuts  are  only  beginning  to  siiew  their  bio*. 
kkiu;  the  hawthorn  not  jet;  apple-trec-i  have 
not  lost  theirs.  The  thermometer  varies  from 
45*  to  60* ;  a  iire  is  still  very  soccptal 

On  our  return  to  Ixmdon,  we  found  Sir  Fran- 
cis Bunlrtt  agnin  before  the  public.  He  has  in- 
stituted a  suit  in  the  court  of  King's  Bench 
against  Use  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons 
who  gave  the  order  for  his  arrest,  stating  Ida  - 
mages  at  L.30,000,  against  the  scrgeant-at  at 


m 


— *1U  frBAXCIS  Bl'RD£Ti. 


«?ho  arrested  him,  and  against  the  governor 
the  Tower,  (Lord  Moira)  who  detained  him. 
The  Parliament  Jus  l>cen  employed  for  some 
day*  past,  in  debating  whether  the  authority  of 
any  eotrrt  is  to  l>c  acknowledged  in  a  question  of 
The  records  of  the  Hoosc  lave  been 
for  precedents.  They  afforded  many 
_  the  loner  members  of  the  law,  such  as  attor- 
neys, bailiff*,  &c.  &c,  and  even  some  judges,  ar- 
ttcd  by  the  authority  or  Parliament,  for  mod- 
dling  indiscreetly  in  thing's  relating  to  privilege  ; 
yet  the  committee  who  reported  these  racts,  was 
of  opinion  that  the  Speaker,  kc,  should  enter 
their  pJca  before  the  court,  condescending,  out 
of  courtesy,  to  state  their  reasons  tor  what  had 
been  done  ;  but,  if  the  judges  should  proceed 
farther,  the  House  of  Commons  would  probably 
impeach  them.  The  debates  on  this  question 
have  been  very  animated,  ingenious,  ami  acgu- 
■ntativc.  I  observed  particularly  the  speeches 
if  Lord  Ersfcinc  id  the  upper  house,  Sir  Samuel 
tomillj  and  Mr  Kuisonhy  in  the  Commons.  To 
disinterested  by-s-tander,  .ill  this  heat  and  jar- 
•utradictory  authorities,  the  manifest  ex- 
ecration of  all  they  say  and  do,  appear  out  of 
II  proportion  to  the  importance  of  the  case,  and 
is  impossible  not  to  tee  I  surprise  and  disgust. 
On  the  other  hand,  it  must  be  remembered,  th.n 
it  is  only  at  the  point  of  contact  of  the  different 


.ftTOAWBEfc&YHUX.  ]91 

powers,  and  on  their  mutual  boundaries,  that  any 
collision  can  take  place,  and  that  the  importance 
nf  the  dispute  is  not  to  be  estimated,  by  its  im- 
<mediate  object,  but  by  its  consequences.  Soldiers 
idefend,  to  the  last  drop  of  their  blood,  a  breach 
which  is  only  .a  heap  of  stones,  for  the  sake  of 
the  place  behind,  which  must  fall  if  the  enemy 
succeed  in  making  a  lodgement  The  import- 
ance of  constitutional  forms,  and  the  danger  of 
their  infraction  in  a  government  like  this,  are 
very  happily  illustrated  in  the  following  passage 
of  an  old  English  poem  (Hudibras) : 

Am  when  the  sea- breaks  o'er  its  bounds 

And  overflow*  the  level  grounds, 
t'  Thote  banki  and  d»ra*  thmt  like  ft  screen 

'  Did  keep  it  oat,  now  keep  it  in  t 

So  when  tyrannic  usurpation 

Invades  the  freedom  of  the  nation, 

The  laws  o*  the  land  that  were  intended 

To  keep  it  out,  are  made  defend  it. 

May  25.— -I  wished  much  to  see  Strawberry 
Hill,  the  house  of  Lord  Orford,  better  known 
in  France  under  the  name  of  Horace  Walpole, 
by  his  colloquial  wit,  and  his  letter  of  the  King 
.of  Prussia  to  Jean  Jaqucs,— so  French,  that  the 
•latter  ascribed  it  to  D'Alembert,  in  his  factum 
against  David  Hume.  I  knew  that  Mr  Walpole 
had  the  passion  of  minor  antiquities,  painted 
windows,  snuff-boxes,  and  historical  baubles  of 


ILI2 


SriUWfiERET  HILL. 


all  forts.  He  laughed  at  hk  own  t*Uc»  but  I  Ji: 
110  idea  it  was  witii  so  much  reason.  Strawberry 
Hill  ^  a  ( notbic  bah)  bouse;  t in-  wisdotfi  cln 
<}ucmd  like  Harlequin1*  coat,  with  all  the  colouis 
of  the  rainbow;  narrow  passages  lead,  through 
small  door*,  to  rooms  like  closets.  On  the  wall 
hung  the  coat-of-mail  of" our  (frauds  I.  mention- 
ed in  the  correspondence  i 't  Madame  dil  Dctfand, 
but  looking  too  short  for  that  Prince,  whu  was  a 
tall  and  .-tout  knight.  We  were  shewn  the  por- 
traits of  his  favourite  JUidanic  dc  Sevignc,  or 
KadMDC  de  Grignau,  n(  Madame  tie  la  Payette 
The  ink-stand  of  Madanicd.-  ;aa  on  the 

table.  Cctti  dorm  dpc/iur  !  Time,  with  its  fright, 
tul  rapidity,  baa  already  carried  so  iar  from  us 
Walpolc,  Madame  DuDefland,  ^  d'AIcm- 

bert,  and  all  that  w,  which  Use  Duke  and 

Duchess  of  Choiscul  were  the  oatttn,  that  the 
period  in  which  tiav  lived  ■ ■  nded 

with  the  age  of  Loui*  XiV.  ;  and  their  manners 

•  like  th;  nbed  by  Madame  dc  .S 

tie,  than  the  manners  uf  the  present  day;  Tic 
last  twenty  peace  have  covered,  with  their  fune- 
ral crape  and  their  blood,  with  their  folly  and 
their  splendour,  the  space  of  centimes,  in  the 
memory  o(  men.  They  have  dug  an  aby**  be- 
tween die  times  (hat  preceded  and  follow 
and,  forming  a  new  icra  in  history,  future  gene- 
rations  will  say,  before  or  after  the  French  revo- 


iWIWaY  H1U. XJCIIMOND. 


IM 


lutioDf  as  before  or  after  the  fall  of  die  Roman 
empire, — before  or  after  the  dark  ages. 

Strawberry  Hill,  notwithstanding  its  name,  is 
quite  Hut,  even  low,  and  ffeios  damp;  the  road, 
passing  close by,  is  covered  with  a  pointed  guthu- 
arch  of  elms,  forming  a  very  appropriate  ave- 
nue. The  aspect  of  Uvc  1k>usc  is  melancholy $  die 
grounds  arc  well  carpeted  with  green,  and  sha- 
ded with  large  trees,  the  usual  decoration  here. 

The  King  loves  astronomy,  and  has  an  obser- 
vatory in  the  little  park  oi'  Richmond,  called  the 
King's  Paddock.  It  is  furnished  with  a  large 
telescope  of  HerjehcU ;  a  transit  instrument  of 
eight  feet,  through  which  we  saw  Vej 
ibe  meridian;  a  vertical  instrument  of  twelve 
feet  for  zenith  observations ;  a  mural  of  eight 
feet  radius  >f  an  equatorial  telescope,  and  several 
other  instruments  leas  conaidcrablc  :-— a  few  mor 
dels  of  machines ;  among  them  one  to  determine 
the  lateral  pressure  of  arches ;  a  collection  of 
German  minerals ;  and  a  good  apparatus  for 
philosophical  experiments.  His  majesty  happen* 
ed  to  be  at  the  observatory  some  years  ago  to 
observe  an  occultation  of  a  planet,  when  a  deer 
pursued  from  Windsor  crossed  the  river,  leaped 
over  the  park  palings,  followed  by  the  dogs,  and 
was  taken  at  the  foot  of  ibe  observatory,  precise- 
ly at  tlw;  moment  of  the  occultation.  We  took  the 

vou  u  K 


m 


jucusioNP  iiii-i.— oa«KVAToar. 


liberty  of  inquiring  whether  the  attention  of  his 
[ajesty  had  been  proof  against  thi<  interruption, 
■Ddwercftsiawered  thai  a  cloud  hafl  unfortuniiteiy 
interposed  ju«i  then*  otherwise  nothing  couU 
have  taken  offJiia  Majesty's  attention. 

The  King's  Paddock  is  a  dead  flat,  without 
eny  other  view  than  it*  own  meadows  and  scat- 
tered trees,  but  thai  L*  really  enough.  English 
trees  have  a  character  of  picturesque  mag- 
■nicc,  unequalled  any  where  cl*c,  and  a  few 
oft  hem  on  a  lawu  constitute  alone  a  landscape. 
They  form  the  principal  charm  oFthe  view  from 
Kichmnnd  Hill,  so  justly  eelrbnitcil. 

Fiom  the  brow  of  an  inconsiderable  hill,  jmt- 
300  feet,  yon  sec  a  vast  plain,  and  the 
Thames  winding  through  its  rich  pastures,  where 
rattle  and  sheep  graze  at  liberty.  Dark  masses 
of  tufted  trees  project  irregularly  in  the  shape  of 
bay*  and  promontories  over  a  sea  of  verdure, 
with  detached  diady  islands.  Here  and  there 
eye  distinguishes  an  oak  stretching  its  vast 
horizontal  limbs ;  oftener  an  elm  rearing,  in  sue* 
OMta  iSflfflh  "ts  rounded  masses  and  plumy  top. 
A  few  houses  hall' hid  among  these  groves,  and 
iths  slightly  marked  acre**  the  green,  arc  the 
ily  perceivable  tracea  of  man  ;  no  ditches  CO 
hedges  no  iueiosures  of  any  sort,— no  roads,  no 
strait  lines.  A«  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  in  an 
immense  semicircle,  the  scenery,  always  the  same, 


*CC»MOND  HILL— OBSERVATORY- 


Iffl 


5 


tvcr  varied.  As  the  prospect  recedes,  every 
depression  of  the  level  sketches  tike  nearest 
MM  in  a  rich  outline  of  edging  top*  of  tree*, 
upon  the  farthest,  fainter  and  bluer,  till  all  is  lost 
in  the  vague  greyish  haze  ol  the  hnrisBun,  • 
tome  indications  of  hill*.  If  they  were  real  hills, 
the  prospect  would  leave  nothing  to  wish  for. 
From  a  far  gTcatcr  height,  whence  the  eye 
easurcd  a  plain  rar  more  extensive,  torn  ami 
id  waste,  rather  than  embellished,  by  a  broad 
and  rapid  stream,  whkh  disdains  winding,  I  was 
accustomed,  in  the  days  of  ray  infancy,  to  con- 
template an  horizon  skirted  by  the  Alps,  with 
Mont  Blanc  in  the  centre,  in  autumn,  a  thick 
fog  often  fell  during  the  night,  nn  the  vast  plain 
below  ;  and  it  was  seen  early  in  the  morning 
like  a  sea  -f  its  surface  pcrtcctly  calm  and  unruf- 
fled, and  the  margin  exactly  denned  along  the 
sides  of  the  hill.  The  eastern  glow  of  the  morn* 
ing  witnessed  no  change  ;  but  no  sooner  had  the 
rising  sun  darted  ill  first  level  rays  from  between 
the  deep  black,  dentated  summit  of  the  Alps 
than  the  sea  of  vapours  began  to  heave  it*  bil- 
;  the  mighty  waves  rolled  and  tumbled  fu- 
uftly  as  in  u  tempest,  till,  losing  their  density, 
cy  rose,  alow  and  majestic,  in  vast  clouds,  and, 
veJoping  at  last  the  spectator  himself,  hid  the 
of  glory  from  h«  sight. 


196 


Richmond  niLu 


Richmond  Hill,  without  pretending  to  so  much 

>limitv,hxia  style  of1  beauty  more  ornamented, 

riant,  and  pleasing.     It  is  not  a  forest,  fox 

lere  is  nothing  rude  and  neglected ;  not  a  gar- 
den, for  there  is  no  art ;  not  a  country*  for  etiiti* 
xaiion  and  business  arc  nowhere  going  on  ; — the 
simplicity  and  unity  of  plan  and  mean*,  trees 
and  grass*  and  vast  extent,  give  it  an  appearance 
of  nature,— but  nature  was  never  seen  so  select 
and  chaste,  and  unmixed  with  offensive  objects. 
It  is  at  least  rich,  elegant,  and  high-born  nature, 
and  5omethin£,  at  any  rate,  unique  of  if*  kind. 
Moat  af  this  magical  effect  is  owing  to  the  fol- 
lowing circumstances:  Some  rich  proprietors 
happen  to  occupy  all  the  fore-ground  of  the  pic- 
ture in  the  plain  below, — Lord  Dysart,  Mr  Cam- 
bridge, &c— - They  have  spread  their  lawns,  plant- 
ed their  groves,  and  levelled  their  enclosures. 
Further  on  are  the  royal  grounds.  A1J  the  rest 
ol'rlic  country  is  sufficiently  planted  to  give  if, 
when  acen  fore-shortened  in  the  remote  view,  a 
very  woody  uppuanim-.c,  and  make  it  an  uniutr.r. 
rupted  and  boundless  continuation  of  tin*  near 
scene.  The  blue  haze  of  distance  finishes  the 
front  view.  The  Hue  old  forcrt-trccs  of  the  park 
of  Richmond,  banging  on  the  left  side  of  the  hill, 
and  on  the  right  other  trees,  and  good-looking 
houses,  form  tltc  screens  or  frame  of  the  picture. 


RICHMOND  HILL — TWICKENHAM. 


d. 

m 
r- 
i- 


lt  is  however,  a  pity  tiiat  so  many  people  should 
have  had  the  same  taste  m  to  the  beauty  of  this 
view,  and  that  it  should  be  only  eight  or  ten 
mile*  from  London.  Houses  have  accumulated 
along  the  top  of  Richmond  Hill,  forming  a  street, 
or  rather  a  row,  looking  over  the  beautiful  ter- 
ructr,  and  inhabited  hy  substantial  citizens  ;— ft 
clasa  of  people  more  respectable  for  tlietr  good 
conduct,  than  remarkable  for  their  taste.  The 
walkers  on  the  terrace  and  in  the  park  admire 
moat  what  their  glasses  alone  enable  them  to  dis- 
cover j  the  colours  flying  on  the  top  of  Windsor 
Castle,  or  the  roofs  and  chimneys  of  London. 
And  with  Thomson, 

T1i«  ri|iturtil  ryo 
faulting,  swift  to  hnj»«  Anpuitn  stnd, 

Kow  to  tho  sister  hllla  ibos  skirt  her  plain. 
To  lully  lUrruw  otm,  and  hvw  to  wbvr* 
Ms^ostic  Windsor  lifts  hit  princely  brow. 

Beauties  without  a  name  are  no  beauties 

them.    Tin-    II  vrUeh  tliey  call  majestic, 

holds  the  first  rank  among  the  objects  of  their 
admiration.  It  is  no  riuubt  a  pretty  little  stream, 
a  narrow  ribbon  or  silvery  snake  twisting  along 
the  green  meadows  ;  but  if  it  were  dried  up,  and 
its  muddy  bed  filled  and  sodded  over,  I  do  not 
think  the  prospect  would  be  materially  injured. 


S10K  HOUSE — KEW— EKOLt'H  LAWX4. 


Water,  in  that  geographical  map  state,  lias  lea* 
beauty  than  in  any  other. 

Ascending  the  river  from  Richmond,  weeame 
in  »i«ht  ul  Pope's  residence.  Tim  two  Mum 
the  illustrious  weeping- willows  planted  with  hi* 
own  hands,  the  first,  I  I>lucvc,  that  grew  in  Eng. 
LukI,  nrc  still  visible  0D  the  Mirfaccof  the  ground. 
His  house  is  transformed  into  a  great  staring 
building,    new   and    Mated*     A    lurmal  railing 
stretches  along  the  water  edge,  and  no  trace  of 
poetry  remains  on  tlte  place.   Below  Richmond, 
Sion  House,  a  great  palace  of  the  Pcrcics,  came 
DflXt  in  view.     It  i*  a  vast  quadrangle,  remark- 
able only  by  its  innumerable  windows;   the  lift 
is  melancholy  ami  uninteresting.  Lowei  down  is 
the  new  Gothio  palace  of  Kcw,  winch  the  king 
U  building  himself — his  own  architect  as  we  were 
told      Mr  Wyatt,  a  celebrated  artist,  is  only  the 
maMer  builder ; — the  public  seems  to  think  it  is 
enough,  and  we  were  of  the  same  opinion. 
Thtf  place  is  not  unlike  a  miniiturc  of  the  old 
SaatiJe.     Its  situation  is  certainly  the  worst  pos- 
sible ;  the  im  nediate  prospect  aeros*  the  river 
being  a  sort  of  lar^e  trading  village,  or  sulnirb 
ol  London,— black,  dirty,  ami  noisy. 

I  havr  been  iwlured  by  the  beauty  of  English 
lawns,  to  give  some  attention  to  the  proceaa  of 
gardeners.     The  ground,  ploughed  and  harrow- 


GJISKNU  tr»  IIOSPiTAl.. 


Ifl0 


cd  carefully,  is  cither  sown  or  sodded  ;  rolling 
and  mowing,  and  a  moist  ehmate,  do 
tar  there  is  nothing  fit  all  peculiar  in  ihe  grass 
iUelf.  The  rolling  i^  principally  doue  in  the 
spring,  when  the  Mufacc  is  sufficiently  tin 
to  poach,  vet  soft  enough  to  yield  to  the  pres- 
wire.  It'  moss  gets  the  better  of  the  grass. 
ashea  or  fine  mould  restore  it;  much  nianuii- 
would  make  the.  i^;im  rauk,  instead  of  low  ami 
tine-  The  mowing,  or  rather  xluving  of  this 
amootli  surface,  is  done  once  a  week,  and 
twice  in  warm  rainy  weather  ;  once  a  month 
dots  in  dry  weather.  The  gran  roust  be  wet 
with  dew  or  rain,  and  the  scythe  very  slurp ; 
the  blade  is  wide,  and  set  bo  obliquely  on  the 
handle,  as  to  lie  very  Hat  oji  the  sod.  The  roll- 
ers are  generally  of  cast  irou,  IS  or  20  inches  in 
diameter,  and  two  and  a  half  or  three  feet  long, 
hollow,  and  weigh  about  500  pounds  moved 
about  by  one  man  ;  tho«c  drawn  by  a  horse  are, 
ofcottrafi,  itaea  or  four  time*  heavier.  I  bave 
*cei\  one,  the  diameter  of  which  was  seven  or 
eight  ad  the  weight  5000 or  uTxxj  puuud*, 

drawn  by  four  horses. 

June  ¥.— We  are  just  n  I  from  the  naval 

hospital  at  Greenwich,  on  the  Thames,  live  miles 
below  London.  It  h  a  moat  beautiful  edifice,  on 
a  singular  plan.  Instead  of  a  wide  firm*  to  the 
river  it  presents  two  honw  or  wing*,  nearly  3<)0 


too 


OtCEKWICB  HOSPITAL. 


feet  apart.  The  open  interval  is  decorated  with  a 
statue  in  mart;..  >rge  II.  by  Hy^bntch.   Be- 

hind these  wing*  are  two  other  pile*  of  building, 
i  line  with  the  tint,  and  likewise  insulated ; 
the  whole  forming  a  spacious  avenue,  adorned 
wilh  a  micgnrftcent  Doric  colonnade,  terminated 
north  by  the  Thamea,  which  :s  here  a  very  great 
river,  wafting  fleets  of  commerce  and  vrar,— onrl 
south  by  the  park  of  Greenwich,  with  its  green 
hills  and  fine  shade*.  ThU  general  disposition 
insure*  a  great  circulation  of  air ;  the  view  is 
OJH  u  nt\  every  aide ;  and  it  b  not.  only  the  moat 
magnificent  of  hospitals  hut  the  mini  cheerful  I 
ever  saw.  It  does  not  prevent,  however,  the  old 
sailors  who  inhabit  it  from  looking  very  tired  and 
melancholy  ;  they  are  seen  warming  themselves 
in  the  sun,  or  crawling  languidly  along  the  mag* 
ninocntcolonna<leaorporticoe\  of  which  the  ele- 
gance and  beauty  makes  a  sad  contrast  with  tlicrr 
crippled,  infirm,  and  dependent  old  age  :  2400 
of  these  veterans  reside  in  the  interior,  1.50  wi- 
dows of  sailors  at  nurse*,  and  too  sons  of  sea- 
men, brought  up  far  the  navy.  About  9000  out- 
pensioners  receive  L.7  sterling  a-yenr  each.  I 
have  reason  to  think,  from  some  ealctifatfon* 
made  on  the  subject,  that  each  of  the  2400  hoirse- 
pemioners  costs,  including  the  interest  on  the 
iiuilling,  about  I~50  sterling  a*  year  ;  and  I 
should  think  most  probable  that  the  out-pen- 


gskehwich  HoarrTAt— o»seiivatory,     fiOl 


lent,  with  their  seven  pounds  s-ycar,  which, 
I  thou  t  being  sufficient,  helps  them  to  live,  are 
illy  happier  as  long  as  they  can  do  any  work. 
Whatever  the  feelings  of  the  veterans  mar  be  on 
the  subject,  there  cannot  be  any  doubt  as  to  the 
impression  which  this  noble  and  comfortable 
establishment  mu*t  make  on  the  young  seamen 
passing  before  it,  going  up  and  down  the  Thames 
*•  It  is  not,"  as  Paley  rigbily  observes, m  by  what 
the  Lord  Mayor  feels  in  his  coach,  but  by  what 
the  apprentice  feels  who  gajses  at  him,  fJiat  the 
public  i?  served." 

The  interior  of  the  chapel,- which  i*  !  io  feet 
long  by  SQ  wide,  is  finished  in  the  most  beautiful 
style  of  Grecian  architecture,  from  the  designs  of 
Mr  Stuart,   who  published    the   antiqn 
Athens.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  exquisite  ft" 
of  the  ornaments,  particularly  tlie  porta!  and 
folding  doors  of  the  entrance.    The  fbneral-car 
which  served  to  transport  the  body  of  Lord  Nel- 
son ha-*  been  placed  in  one  of  the  halls  j — a  me- 
morial fitted  to  it.i  toft. 
l*he  site  of  Greenwich  Pai-k  is  unequal  and  ptc- 
|ue,  and  offers  line  views.    On  an  elevated 
it  the  national  olrtcrvatory,  from  the  meri- 
dian of  which  lite  English  compute  their  longi- 
tude ;  it  bears  the  name  of  Flamatead,  for  whom 
Charles  II.  burlt  it.     The  celebrated  veteran  of 
astronomy,  Maskciine,  is  at  present  astronomer- 


202       LONUOS SIU  V*  D(K  ttGEOI*  S  frCTV«E». 


royal  The  old  invalid,  our  conductor,  observed 
that  J>r  Afaskchrtc  teas  alwet*t  al  ivork  aboet/  the 
*lar.>f  but  that  he  dlti  not  let  any  body  know  what 
he  found,  but  the  King. 

We  have  seen  lately  two  noted  collections  of 
picture*,  that  ofSir  Francia  Bourgeois,  the  largest, 
and  that  of  Mr  Augcrtfcin,  the  choicest  of  this 
capital ;  a  distinguished  arti&t.  Mi  T.  !u<i 
goodness  to  accompany  us.  At  Sir  Francis  Bour- 
geois* wc  admired  mostly  a  Vandyke,  the  Virgin 
and  Child  ;  the?  rlniw.ii>;  pertcet,— . -the  colouring 
grave  and  vigorous, — the  expression  such  as  I 
think  would  not  be  found  among  the  works  of 
the  great  matters,— creators  of  the  art.  The 
vague  and  undefined  outline  or  Vandyke  has  a 
prodigious  effect  J  Ri'inhiamlt  and  MuiillolttVC 
the  same  merit.  Is".  Poussin  alone  fills  one  oi"  the 
apartments;  sans  prix  fur  connoLwui  ■>,  m\\\  foe 
roe  also, — but  it  is  in  mmhuc*  This  audaim  in 
avowal  will  draw  upon  roc  the  contempt  of  many, 
but  may  nttbrd  comfort  to  some  who  foci  a*  1  do, 
but  who  dare  not  own  it,  thinking  tl:  Jtnir 

in  their  opinion.  Tin  nurda  of  tin  inooMt^ 
In  Le  Urun,  is  horribly  beautiful.  Sofflol  ex- 
cellent landscapes  of  Cuyp,  notwithstanding  a 
peculiar  light,  hardly  natnr.il ;  a  very  tine 
vigorous  oU  man's  head  Wv  (  orraenggio  ;  seve- 
ral Claudes,  which  did  not  please  we  much,  and 
[valor  Jtosa  not  at  all.    Nothing  could  per- 


LONDON— MB  ANO 


<  picrvass.     £03 


mc  that  four-fliths  of  this  immense  collcc- 
[i  arc  not  composed  of  very  indifferent  pic- 
ires,  originals  a*  they  n>uy  be. 
Mr  Angcrsteui  luis  not  many  pictures  but  they 
are  all  BMUllrtrt  ;  they  occupy  two  large  rooms. 
Hib  famous  ltenibrundt  (the  woman  taken  in 
adultery,)  is  certainly  the  finest  thin,*  I  ever  saw 
as  to  the  magic  of  colouring  ;  it  is  iwpo&Mblc  to 
say  how  the  effect  is  produced  wheuyou  examine 
it  attentively.  Tlus  picture  co»t,  I  believe, 
L.6O0O  sterling.  A  large  picture  of  the  resur- 
rection of  Lazarus,  drawn  by  Michael  Angelo. 
awl  painted  by  bia  ihsetple,  Del  Piombo,  fixed 
our  attention.  The  history  of  this  picture  is, 
Uiat  it  was  pointed  in  competition  with  Raphael. 
and  that  it  had  the  advantage.  Ehc  !>gurc  of 
Christ  lias  nothing  o^  that  expression  of  im/tKible 
goodiics  which  should  always  be  iu  charae 
The  tire  of  his  eyes, — the  |  of  his  hollow 

cheeks,— hi*  thin  ragged  beard,— animated,  and 
almost  threatening  gClhlUtj  ilttay  give  birn  the 
look  of  .'-|i  uir;piied  puipliel,  bul  not  of  a  god  : 
Omnipotence  i*  more  calm, — itacU  without  ef 
fort.  The  limbs  also  arc  too  aflictcdly  Ittdi 
under  tiie  di  apery  ;  the  object  was  Dot  to  draw 
an  academical  figure.  As  to  Lazarus,  he  is  not 
only  restored  to  lite,  but  to  all  that  twin. 
flesh  which  be  must  be  supposed  to  have  lost  du- 
ring the  course  of  the  disorder  which  scdl  him  tp 


■ 


204      LONDON— MB  AXGEOSIBIS'S  P1CTUBES. 

the  grave ;  and  instead  or  that  astonishment  and 
ecitacy  naturally  expected  in  a  man  just  raised 
from  die  dead,  Lazarus  is  coolly  employed  in 
loosening  his  garter,  or  at  least  some  ligament 
round  bis  left  leg,  and  that  by  mean*  of  the 
toe  of  his  right  foot,  which  he  seem*  to  use  with 
a  great  deal  of  force  and  dexterity,  instead  of 
his  hands,  which  are  otherwise  employed.   Alive 
as  he  is  a  woman,  his  sister  probably,  holds  her 
nose  and  averts  her  head,  as  if,  uotwithstandii 
his  good  looks,  lie  still  smelt  of  the  place  be  had 
just  left     There  does  not  seem  to  me  in  all  this 
a  single  thought  worthy  of  the  subject ;  and  as 
to  die  colouring,  it  is  dull.  Hat,  ami  dusky,— the 
figures  all  look  like  mulattocs.     Such  is  the  pic- 
ture which  is  an  acknowledged  test  of  taste.     I 
own  I  do  not  understand  it     Of  four  Claude 
Lorraine*,  two  pleased  mc  much  j  fine  hazy  dis- 
tances, and  light  graceful  trees, — the  figures  very 
bad.     One  of  these  picture*  is  a  seaport ;  build- 
ings, vessels,  masts  and  yards,  afford  endless 
strait  lines ;  the  but  rays  of  the  setting  sun  edge 
each  of  these  sbait  lines  with  a  sharp  light,  then 
another  long  strait  line  of  reflection  on  the  sur. 
face  of  the  water.  Claude  bked  this  sort  of  com. 
position,  for  he  has  repeated  it  often.     We  next 
remarked  a  small  picture,  all  blue  and  cold,  very 
preciously  liuished,  and  under  a  glass;  Christ  in 
the  Garden  of  Olives  and  the  name  of  the  pain- 


LONDON— MUSIC. 

t6f  no  lew  than  Corrcgin  !  Then  two  Titians ; 
the  outlines  hard  and  incorrect,  ami  by  way  of 
colouring,  all  the  interval  between  the  outlines, 
that  is  to  say,  all  the  figure,  of  a  dingy  white, 
without  any  difference  of  light  and  shadow,  nu- 
king it  quite  flat  Another  Rembrandt,  the  Ado- 
ration of  the  Wise  Men  of  the  East,  superlatively 
beautiful  as  to  colouring  ;  for  Rembrandt  is  not 
great  in  expression.  A  good  bacchanalian  scene 
by  1'oumid,  but  Mill  the  same  dingy  red,  dull  co- 
louring. Above  a  door  I  .observed  a  good  Mis- 
rillo,  and  was  greatly  surprised  to  find  it  ww  ta- 
pestry, by  a  lady -artist,  a  Miss  Thompson.  I  saw 
there,  with  great  pleasure,  the  collection  of  the 
original  pictures  of  the  Afarriagc-d-ta-Mede  of 
Hogarth ;  they  are  very  good,  but  I  think  I 
should  prefer  the  excellent  engravings  made  of 
them  by  himself. 

Every  morning,  about  eleven  o'clock,  the  band 
of  the  Guards  assembles  in  the  court  yard  of  that 
miserable  ]«dace  of  St  James's,  anil  plays  foe 
about  three  quarters  of  an  hour, — softly— slowly, 
in  that  beautiful  medium,  the  wtto  voce  of  the 
Italians,  which,  both  for  instruments  and  voices, 
is  so  full,  so  rich,  so  favourable  to  great  effects 
in  music.  The  performers  arc  mostly  Germans. 
Trie  audience  k  usually  composed  of  the  lower 
ranks  of  people, — the  higher  are  not  up.  I  have 
bc<m  struck  with  the  profound  attention,— the 


10>DON— X'iltSl AX   AMBASSADOR. 


fixed  eye,  where  Maiuls  t  tear,  now  iuv!  then  oh. 
veil  BiDOttg  the  crowd.  There  is  a  sixth  sense 
c,  which  may  be  cultivated,  but  cannot 
be  supplied  when  wanting,  and  of  which  it  would 
be  «  much  in  vain  to  attempt  giving  an  idea  to 
those  who  have  it  not,  as  of  colours  to  a  bund 
lan.  This  sense,  like  the  other*,  onlv  openi  ;m 
nie  to  that  moral  ?»tfn*e,  which  exists  without 
material  sense  of  music  ;  for  it  is  the  *amc 
hich  feels  the  power oFdoQoence^— the  chimin 
poetry, — and  probably  lite  same  also  which 
thirsts  for  gfort,  and  admires  virtue.  lie  who  has 
feelings,  but  no  car,  may  conjecture,  by  analogy, 
what  the  effect  of  music  i*  ; — with  an  ear  anrl  no 
feelings,  he  will  understand  the  rythm,  and  enjoy 
ie  harmony  of  line  sounds,  but  without  emo- 
tion, and  will  not  even  he  able  to  conjecture  what 
miiocL-*.  M  Hotnmc  vulgairc,"  says  Ron* 
in  the  celebrated  article  genie  of  his  Dictionary 
of  Music,  "  que  t'importe  de  Ie  connoitrc  ?  to 
ie  saurois  Ie  scntir." 
The  I  Vrsian  ambassador  b  still  in  fashion  cvery- 
diere.  I  was  surprised  in  hear  him  laugh  very 
loud  yesterday  with  Sii  Sort  Ontley,  his  rnter- 
!r,  end  another  person  who  understands  his 
igtiagc.  I  did  not  think  the  OrientaLrever  de- 
parted from  their  gravity.  An  officer  present,  Sir 
David  B.  with  his  arm  carried  ofTat  the  Nhouldcr, 
modest  and  unassuming,  seemed  to  attract  lees 
attention  than  this  diplomatic  barbarian. 


LOHDOW — Mft  W1SD1U.M. 


SO? 


England  h&sjost  Ion  Mr  Windbam.  His  death 
baa  been  marked,  s*.  Ms  life  was,  with  thcorigi- 
naJrtjof  liis<:h;ir.Lr::T.  He  would  undergo  n  cruel 
operation,  against  the  advice  of  medical  men,  and 
ired  himself  with  great  courage,  and  a  per- 
fect knowledge  of  the  danger,  at  appears  by  the 
letters  he  wrote,  to  be  delivered  in  case  of  his 
death.  It  afforded,  probably,  the  only  chance  for 
li;  lift-  Mr  Windham  has  left  a  voluminous 
diary,  which  will  be  given  to  the  public  some 
time  or  other.  This  illustrious  man  ha*  excited 
so  general  an  interest,  that  it  became  necessary, 
<j  bit  days  of  his  illness,  to  satisfy  the  public 
by  a  daily  bulletin.  lli$  sins  are  now  forgiven, 
and  all  parties  agree  in  doing  justice  to  his  per- 
fect disinterestedness,  his  frankness,  his  genero- 
sity, his  courage,  his  profound  contempt  of  mere 
popularity,  liis  knowledge,  and  eloquence-  He 
leaves  behind  him  no  reputation  equal  lo  his ; 
but  he  leaves  many  men  capable  of  being  more 
solidly  tncAd  than  he  wan;  and  the  state  loses 
ily  ;\  brilliant  ornament.  His  fbftUM  Mi  alwut 
,6000  sterling  a-year,  and  all  from  paliiim  : 
-not  acquired. 

An  event  of  another  sort  lias  divided  public 

[tcntion, — the  extraordinary  attempt  to  asses* 

nc  of  the  Prince*,  who  was  attack  r  I  ill 

lis  bed,  during  the  Might,  with  his  own  regiiocnt- 

brc,  and  escaped  withdifEudiv,  alter  rccci- 


MM 


LOKDOX — BIRTH-DAT — DRX5.5ZS. 


ring  many  wounds,  none  of  which  are  mortal. 
One  of  hh  servant*  was  found  dead  in  an  adjoin- 
ing apartment,  uitli  a  bloody  razor  not  far  from 
hira,  his  throat  cut  from  car  to  car,  and  he  is 
HUppoMd  to  have  been  the  atsawtn.  This  miser- 
able man  not  having  given  before  any  mark*  of 
insanity,  the  motive  of  bo  desperate  an  act  is  be- 
come a  great  object  of  speculation.  He  was  an 
Italian, 

The  birth-day,  soon  after  this,  has  been  cele- 
brated with  more  than  usual  pomp.  The  crowd 
wan  immense, — die  town  dkuuiiioted, — the  peo- 
ple full  of  joy  and  loyalty,— and  quite  on  a  cor* 
dial  rooting  with  the  horse-guards  on  duty  among 
them,  winch,  cxMixidering  the  late  tumults,  and 
those  cxpectrd  shortly  when  Sir  Francis  Burdctt 
comes  out  of  the  Tower,  shew*  the  English  peo- 
ple to  be,  like  all  others,  governed  by  the  mere 
impulse  of  the  moment 

The  ladies  who  go  to  court  on  the  birth-day 
are  dressed  in  the  fashion  of  fifty  years  ago,  as 
more  suitable,  I  suppose,  to  the  age  of  their  ma- 
jesties. Many  are  carried  there  in  sedan-chairs, 
which  can  penetrate  further  than  carriages ;  and 
it  is  really  a  curiosity  to  see  them  as  they  pass 
along  the  street  towards  the  palace  of  St  James's. 
To  enable  them  to  sit  in  these  chairs,  their  im- 
mense hoops  are  folded  like  wings,  pointing  for- 
ward on  each  side.  The  preposterous  high  head- 


L0XDOX— fOUTICAL  fAMI1IU.TR. 


«09 


ess  would  interfere  with  die  top,  and  rrnut  be 
lunwurcd  by  throwing  the  head  back  ;  the  face 
is  therefore  turned  up,  kept  mot  ionics  in  tbfi 
awkward  attitude,  an  if  oik  purpose  to  he  gazed 
at ;  and  that  face,  generally  old  and  ugly,  (young 
women  not  going  mucli  there,  it  seem*)  »»  paint- 
ed up  to  the  eyes,  and  set  with  diamonds. 

1 


Sonjjroi  cou  Jnurw  it    i-:  il.ux  brui  quirrf* 

Sont  etc  rubi*.  do  pcrkt  rntour^n 

F.IIc  en  cloil  encore  plu*<ffroy«blc. — IV 


The  glasses  of  the  vehicle  are  drawn  up,  that 
the  winds  of  Heaven  may  not  visit  the  powder 
and  paint  too  roughly ;  and  this  piece  of  natural 
history,  thus  cased,  does  not  ill  referable  a  ftetus 
hippopotamus  in  its  brandy  bottle.  The 
present  generation  can  hardly  believe  that  it 
was  possible  to  be  young  and  handsome  in  this 
accoutrement ;  and  yet  it  was  so.  I  have  seen 
some  of  tin  .  smile  on   the  wondering 

spectators  as  they   passed,  conscious,  I  should 
hope,  of  their  own  absurd  appearance. 

RJ  had  received  the  i  ommission  from  a  person 
n  a  public  station  in  France,  to  itt\d  there  cer- 
tain pohtiirul  pamphlets  of  the  day,  for  and  against 
the  government  •  tod,  thinking  there  might  he 
an  impropriety  in  doing  it  * •iainlesiinely,  the 
American  minister,  Mr  Pinckney,  had  thegood- 
vot.  r.  o 


LO*DOX — NATIONAL  DEBT. 


and  dilapidations,  much  greater  in  proportion 
iban  those  which  are  so  much  complained  of  at 
►resent-  There  is  a  remarkable  similarity  l>e- 
iwecn  the  opinions  and  complaints  of  that  time 
id  the  present,  although  under  circumstances 
iilelv  different.  They  spoke  then  of  the  debt 
jiKC  bora  as  enormous.  A  writer  of  great  repu- 
tation, Davenant,  said  that  England  could  not 
furnish  a  revenue  of  more  than  two  millions  ster- 
ling, (equal  to  eight  millions  now,)  without  ruin 
w  it*  commerce  and  manufactures.  That  reve- 
nue is  now  seventy  millions,  and  neither  com- 
merce nor  manufactures  are  ruined  ;  at  least  if 
they  suffer  it  is  from  a  different  cause.  Bank- 
notes were  then  at  a  discount  of  twenty  per  cent. 
and  stocks  lost  (ih.il  forty  to  sixty  per  cent. 
Bank-notes  are  said  to  lose  now  also  twenty  per 
cent.,  and  the  want  of  specie  waa  assigned  as  the 
cause  at  both  periods.  There  mi  then  fire  or 
six  millions  hid  away  in  private  hoards,  and  now 
there  is  not  a  thrifty  housekeeper,  or  timid  nun, 
who  has  not  also  his  hoard  of  guineas.  Public 
officer*  had  grown  rich  hy  fraud  and  peculation, 
— die  crime  was  notorious,  and  remained  unpu- 
nished : — I  hear  of  cases  of  that  sort  now  here 
every  day.  Finally,  the  terror  of  the  power  of 
France,  and  the  absolute  neressiiy  of  opposing  it 
to  extinction,  was  and  is  the  order  of  the  day. 
The  emperor  of  Uiis  day  is,  no  doubt,  far  more 


1 


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If 


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£11 

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LOKDOV NAtrONML  DEBT. 


i>li 


owerfu),  able,  and  ambitious,  than  the  gi 
monarch  of  that  time ;  ami  altlroiigli  Knglaod 
y  not  say  altogether  the  same  tiling  of  her  so- 
ign9  of  the  two  rv  periods,  it  po*. 

■i  iit.v  n;t;tu<  of  tleftfniv  far  greater 
id  then  j  and  whatever  the  pain  ROj  lx-  on  one 
,  it  is  at  least  as  great  on  the  other.  I  annex 
f  tlie  present  national  <\<  rrat 

Britain,  embracing  its  progress  from  the  begin- 
ning.' 

During  the  course  of  the  hn  century,  we  tiiul 
every  writer  on  tlie  subject  inveigfling  ag . 
the  debt,  Hume  declaies,  tliat  if  the  nation  does 
not  destroy  credit,  credit  will  destroy  it.  Dr 
ke  says,  that  the  evils  and  dangers  of  an  cx- 
itant  debt  are  so  great,  that  it  w  impossible  to 
exaggerate  thcni.  4«  A  sinking  fund  might  sarc 
us  in  tinur,  but  we  are  come  so  near  the  end  of 
our  resources,  (1700)  that  there  is  no  time  left 
for  us."  Since  that  the  debt  has  quadrupled! 
*•  An  exorbitant  debt,"  lie  say*  again,  M  leads  to 
despotism,  the  natural  tendency  of  all  govern- 
ment*, if  not  arrested  by  the  watchfulness  of  a 
I  permanent  «Jrposition,  and  ultimately  by  resist- 
•  The  cum  of  gold  «nd  aiUl:  b  cVcuhriloa  under  Willium 
tl»?  Third  did  not  recced  ei^fit  million!  ttcrling,  including  lbs 
pJHC  which  was  carried  in  the  mint,  eijuol  to  \Vi  million*  now. 
Dr  Prioe  mated  la  1793,  dial  Uic  turn  oJ  gold  ■»  circulation  Jo 
00  did  not  «xc**l  10  milliorn  iWrling. 


S 


(SJ4 


tOKDO*— NATIONAL  DEBT. 


ance ;  but  re*i*tance  is  necessarily  Attended  by 
troubles,  confusion,  and  danger  tor  the  public 
roods  therefore  |»vi  on  Lesion  ii  pieferred. 

The  advance   in    price  of  all    things   destroys 
commerce  and  manufactures  and  orCO  popula- 
•  ;ohbhig  corrupts  public  morals." 
Lord  Kames,  Adam  Smitk  Mlackstonc,  all 
in  km  rce  <!.■•  same  kuoguagfc     Dr  Price, 

however,  did  not  con  tine  himself  to  pointing  out 
the  danger  of  this  fatal  progress  but  he  under- 
took,  sitqeim  ii:i'.jiinuf  Mr  Pitt,  to  devise  mean* 
to  stop  it.  II*:  suggested  several  schemes  of  re- 
demption, one  of  which  was  adopted  by  Mr  Pitt, 

Hit,  *s  liu-  editor  of  Di  Price  asserts, 
acknowledging  the  obligation.     l"hc  first  invcu- 
tion  of  the  sinking-fund  is  not  due,  however,  u> 
Dr  Price.     He  says  himaolf,  that  Sir  Kobcrt 
had  establish  r  ,   or  rather  Earl 

1736.     This  first  institution  was,  in 
fact,  violated  by  Walpolc  himself  some  years  af- 

in  order  to  give  himself  the  credit  of  having 
rcdik-L'i  tl  e  taxes.     'Hie  tanking  tiuul,  as  orgs* 

1  at  present, and  propo-  i  \<,  Qi  Pm  «■,  was 
instituted,  by  act  of  Parliament,  ^  1786.  it 
provided  that  the  sum  of  L.250&0U  sterling 
rIiiiuU  be  paid  every  three  months  to  certain 
commuaiouerx,  (one  million  a-year,)  to  be  ens- 
l>loyod  by  thciu  in  tlie  purchase  of  stnjaV  at  the 
market-price ;  the  interest  of  the  fctock  thus  pur-i 


LONDON* — MVKIXO  FTMD. 


315 


:: 


chased  continuing  to  be  paid  to  the  cammi*. 
siooers  to  be  applied  to  new  purchases  of  stoei 
until  the  interest  of  tMl  accumulation  formed, 
eluding  the  annual  million,  a  revenue  of  four 
ona  sterling.  The  interest  of  their  future 
ntirc.Haxeft  in  then  no  Innger  to  be  paid  to  them, 
and  their  purchase*  are  limited,  after  that  pC 
to  four  mitt  tons  t-ycar, — this  was  to  happen  in 
I8O8-  The  government  added  new  tiind* in  I7?>2; 
and,  rmnlly,  *  late  act  of  Parliament  (iSf>2)  de- 
creed the  continuation  of  tl*e  payment  of  the 
interest  to  the  commissioners  untfl  the  entire 
redemption  of  the*  national  debt  existing  m  1S02, 
(SSO  millitMM.)  This  aei-umularron  aiflrjttnlS  al- 
ready to  ICO  millions,  and  is  to  pay  the  old  debt 
ia  38  years  from  the  beginning.  No  debt  will 
then  be  extant  hut  for  loans  made  since  1302, 
amounting  now  to  about  *2<X)  millions  ;  I  a  .it  i 
Uiese  new  loans  having  each  an  excess  of  tax 
beyond  the  annual  interest,  carry  in  fart  with 
I  a  principle  of  extinction,  increasing  in  a 
etrieal  ratio,  • 


A  ium  equal  to  ono  per  cent,  on  the  principal  of  each  loan 

raited  annual  I  j  \ty  laxv,  over  and  aiiuvu  itr*  >un>  ueccwory 
the  inter**,  being  a  tin  king-fund  tcr  the  Ndropti 
And  iw  it  take*  about  *3  yvtu*  laic 
U»  work  lliv  extingui'limenl  OfUM  mm  borromd.  ihtre- 
ivrt  the  ntfionnl  debt  ift  future  wfli  never  exceed  at  any  period 
what  iuit  bov»  been  borrowed  in  tJie  prrcaJing  4*5  yciir».— 
1Uwilto»\  Xatiuna! Debt,  p.  103.— Nolo  to  Second  Edition. 


Ill 


tOKDOK — SISKLVG-FUXD- 


It  is  sufficiently  evident,  that  a  nation,  or 
individual  in  debt,  paying  every  year,  besides 
interest,  something,  ever  10  liulr,  toward*  the 
prin  :  I  ill,  m  tune,  clear  ofi*  incumbrances  ; 
but  it  is  not  so  easy  to  understand  how  the  end 
can  ever  be  attained,  when  larger  sums  are  bor- 
rowed every  year  than  are  paid.  To  borrow 
with  one  hand,  and  pay  with  the  other,  xcemx  an 
operation  at  best  uaricaa.  The  great  secret  of 
Dr  Price  is  this,  that  the  debt  increases  sii. 
by  the  capital  of  each  new  loan  ;  the  interest 
being  paid  ammally  to  the  lenders,  and  extin- 
guished, while  the  sinking-fund,  converting  in- 
terest into  principal  by  new  purchases*  increases 
in  a  compound  ratio.  Ami  the  more  effectually 
to  overcome  incredulity,  Di  Price  tells  us,  that 
a  penny  put  out  at  interest  on  the  clay  of  the 
nativity  of  our  Siviour,  with  interest  upon  in- 
terest, to  the  date  of  his  book  (1791),  w«>ul  l 

nit  to  mine  gold  thvin  300  millions  of  tinu 
tlie  bulk  of  our  globe  ;  while  at  simple  interest, 
KU  penny  would  have  only  produced  seven  shil. 
ling*  and  sixpence!  This,  however,  docs  not 
apply  to  the  cum;  at  all,  or  proves  too  pu<  h  ;  for 
if  it  is  out  of  the  substance  of  tJiis  Karoe  globe 
that  the  compound  interest  is  to  be  drawn,  it  will 
never  be  able  to  supply  300  million?  of  times  its 
nun  Imlk.  la  other  words,  the  accumulating 
interest  of  the  sinking-fund  is  to  be  drawn  from 


t 


tax  aax — sink  i  von  xd.  217 

the  wealth  of  tlie  people;  :m<l   in  pw 

mutters  not  how  inuny  times  it  might  exceed  that 
th.  as  the  abilities  of  the  people  do  not  go 

By  a  wrt  of  economical  abstraction,  lh  Price 
separate*  the  finances  from  the  people.  I  he 
finances  gain  by  the  sinking-fund,  not  the  pro- 
le ;  Off  r.u her  the  people  of  the  present  day  lose 
mcthing  by  it,  and  The  people  of  future  timea 
gain  just  as  much.-     In  this  last  point  of  view. 


l 


•  Sot  just  iu  mncU  by  *ay  tatMiU  hi  Him -of  "ar,  ml\cn  the 
Opandiiure  exceed*  the  revenue,  and  fund*  low,  money  it 
borrowed  pn  uWdvanttgouQ*  u-ui-.  \o  t)rrfrar  in  provide  » fund 
to  purchase  in  peace  when  the  fundi  ir*  high1  And  c»ea  ad* 
imitinj;  that  there  i«  a*  much  purehi**ed  hy  the  enmm'iananfcti 
lq  iw  a*  in  ptftcv.  u*  much  al  a  lew  ujti  lii^h  rile,  yet  at 
llivrv  ii  mure  hurtnwed  in  wax  thnn  m  peace,  more  al  a  high 
than  at  a  low  rate,  the  difference  of  rate  between  the  ram  of 
debt  added  to  or  redeemed  remtiiu  undoubtedly  unfuvoiirjbla 
to  govenimpnt :  at  j"t  rate,  th«  profit*  of  the  lonn  rout/actor*, 
and  other  charge*  en  the  manac,cmorit  of  loini  at  the  Bank, 
Xt.  Ac.  are  rntiroly  uj-iiml  government.  Tide  appeon  in  a 
trill  rtroneer  tight,  lrf  WV  suppose  the  new  loan*  and  the  pur- 
Cbaaya  of  dd  trot  k  to  be  tranticod  with  the  tame  persona, 
with  a  fee  to  the  agent,  and  n  douceur  to  the  creditors  them- 
■pfve*  on  the  renewal !  ThucaiiMr  oTtbt  diminution  of  thy  debt 
m  not  that  a  certain  sinking-fund  wu  ettabluhcd  'iO  ur  30  year* 
ajn,  btjt,  ihut  taxea  wer*  eafahluhrd  *2t)  or  .10  yrara  ago.  The 
uroc  u»e*,  and  consequent  revenue,  would  have  produced  the 
**raw  vtTvct,  whvthcr  lot*  had  been  burrowed  ur  mure  debt  bad 
been  contracted*  nnd  that  more  redeemed  or  paid  off,     The 


513 


LONDON — &lVK2K0-rUKD, 


it  may  however  be,  and  I  beu'eve  is,  a  useful 
cstalili--!*:  h  nl ;  thus :  the  natural  depreciation  of 
ralue  of  money  all  over  Kurope*  by  the  annual 
importations  of  gold  anil  silver, — by  the  increased 
circulation  of  bank  paper, — by  the  increase  of 
the  public  debt  itselti  nukes  the  mm  payable 
every  year  in  interest  represent  le*,  and  become 
in  fact  a  lighter  burthen  upon  the  people.  The 
people  are  enabled  to  pay  each  JPGW  a  Utile  more 
.  thnn  this  Interest,  without  paying,  in 
i.ire  ;  ami  this  nominal  surplus  may  very 
naturally  be  applied  to  the  repayment  of  part  of 

irincfpaJol  the  debt;  andanotsld  tlm  surplus 
ev«  ii  exceed  the  depreciation,  it  would  be  right  to 
ojtuiiz<-  tl»e  burthen,  between  present  and  future 
generations.  The  sinking-fund  may  be  the  best 
mean-  ot  this  equalization,  Imt  is  nothing  more, 
ami  there  is  nn  gain  that  I  can  see ;  it  in  a  Irar- 
vt-U- fitted  to  the  back  and  shoulders  of  the 
beast ;  and  by  mean*  of  which  its  strength  is 

ed  to  most  advantage;  the  burthen  is  bet- 
ter placed  thereby,  but  is  not  specifically  ligl 
A  loan  is,  in  political  economy,  what  the  lever 
ifl  in  mechanics,  compensating  power  by  apace. 


Making-fund  !u»  had  ihc  effect  of  calling  fonh  rxmton*.— 
Hani  i.;igt«  156  mid  I5S.— Note  to 


LOVDOK-  -ErXKTXC-nWD- 


31!) 


le  sinkiiip-fimd,  on  the  contrary,  ?hortefw  Uve 

ig  arm  of  the  lever. 

Or  Price  surprise*  hi*  reader*  with  the  afcicr- 
tion  (undeniable  in  an  arithmetical  point  of  view) 
that,  by  wean*  of  the  sinking-fund,  it  matter* 
not  at  what  rate  the  nation  borrows ;  the  liiguer, 
indeed,  the  belter.  11'  the  lender  ask*  lour  per 
cent,  give  him  eight,  and  the  nation  will  be  the 
gainer !  Take,  for  instance,  a  loan  of  100,000,000 
at  eight  per  cent-  do  but  raise  on  the  people, 
besides  the  8,000,000  of  interest,  100,0001.  *> 
year,  by  way  o(  sinking-fund,  accumulating  the 
yearly  inh  reai  theretin,  and  in  &6  years  the  state 
will  he  liberated  *9  but  this  liberation  will  reo^uire 
94  years,  if  the  loan  vai  d  ■  t  four  per  cent- 
Again,  raise-  oik  per  cent-  more  than  the  intcrc»t 
of  a  loan,  as  a  suikiu^-feud,  the  loan  will  hi:  all 
redeemed  in  37  years,  if  at  five  per  cent.  >  in  41 
ycars,i!  r;  in  47  year*,  if  m 

Most  of  what  has  liceu  said  and  Written  for  a 
century  past,  on  the  natural  limitation  of  taxa- 
tion, and  the  national  debt,  lias  proved  manifestly 
erroneous;  and,  after  so  many  false  prediction*, 

really  would  not  be  safe  to  predict  any  more. 

he  go  ut  gropes  on  through  the  unknown 

;ioitt  of  finance,  advancing  every  ytat  »  few 

through  their  obscure  immensity  -f  feeling 

e  tune  the  pnbe  of  the  people,  a*  the  crimi- 

nal  on  the  rack  haaa  physician  by  him,  'o  watch 


1 


220     i.oni>on — j>£raKcuTiON  or  currexct. 

the  instant  when  u  turn  of  the  wheel  more  might 
kill  hi  in.  m  //  faut  pousser  centre  unc  portc" 
says  Clarron,  «•  pour  saxoir  qu  rile  est  fermie  ;" 
hitherto  the  door  has  always  yielded  to  the  press- 
ure, whenever  government  has  trie<l  it.* 


*  Thai  ihera  are  natural  limits  to  taxation,  need*  no  de- 
monstration. G*?emmcrrt  cannot  mice  away  the  wholv  crop 
Of.tfef  farmer,  for  instune,*;  and  hosrcvi-r  m-m  it>c  maximum 
can  be  approached,  we-anour-  ft  cannot  be  exceeded.  Direct 
taxes  are  not  levied  in  Lind,  and  the  natural  limits  of  tax ut ion 
in  money  cannot  be  dc-urmincir  by  (lie  tame  absolute  rulv. 

r  additional  lix  on  the  produce  of  labour,  or  on  the 
labourer  him*elf,  oeeMlOBJ  x  prop  rnxt  on  the  peine  of 

that  produce  i  a  new  tax  on  land,  for  instance,  add*  to  iho 
ptice  of  corn,  of  iikmi,  and  of  al!  other  agricultural  produce; 
thw  lire  operate*  on  the  wage*  nflahour  of  anvtand,  ami  crrry 
...  lirlr  nf  i  »pi --ulii  mt  ;  thu>  nmiin;!  ruiini)  00  ili<-  Asfttef,  In- 
would  be  compelled  to  odd  a  second  time  to  the  price  of  bra 
produce  i  a  third*  a  fourth  time,  and  to  on  in  an  indefinite  pro- 
greeiion,  if  it  were  nut  stopped  by  the  body  of  non-Iahoucing 
eamumcrs  living  on  a  fixed  money-income  i  they  bear  the 
whole  additional  taxi'-,  both  chose  on  thcmaelves  and  on  other 
cleasee  of  jwple,  and  aa  I  bey  arc  forced  by  degrees  to  enter 
tlit  ranks  of  labouring  caotnmcea,  It  appeani  that  tha  ounibec 
(.1  'imn-hibDuring  consumon,  and  the  mm  of* their  reeenue,  af- 
ford the  best  scale  l>.i  srbjcfc  to  csUuiair  the  capacity  ftf  iw- 
tirm  to  p:iy  t *•»»**,  and  Id  raue  men  for  military  purposes. 

An  obvinus  consequence  of  this  hirji  systrm  of  taxation  and 
consequent  bigb  price?  being  a  direct  encouragement  to  im- 
portation and  ducouragenuint  to  exportation,  :t  would  uvcxmsv 
impnuiiulc  to  maintain  n  gold  And  «ilier  circulotion,  and  paper 
money  would  become  abtolutWy  iinee-nary.  The  only  remedy 
•"  this  is  Co  countetvmTl  the  high  prices  by  high  dutica  on  im- 


LON'DOK — HEmECIATrOV  OF  CtBRENCT.       S2 1 


I  hare  ascertained,  by  inquiries  made  with 
some  care,  respecting  the  nominal  increase  of 


pOTtaiioii*  ul  t'ureign  produce  and  manufacture*,  the  ipnmtum 
of  which  would  be  a>certoined  by  the  price  of  bullion,  wine!;, 
oa  wrll  M  exchange,  muit  be  iiuimiiiioi  at  par. 

A  lit*  writer  Ol  bfgk  "putation  (Me  Hamilton  on  th»  Na- 
tional Debt,  page  a  17  to  19)  obtervca  on  ihia  subject  of  the 
■mural  limits  of  taxation,  that  u»  ilu:  property-tax  of  10  per 
tcni.  produce*  13  milUous.  while-  die  average  laxc-a  of  nil  torti 
produce  to  mil-  Lluw*  that  the  whole  taxation  u  50 

per  cent-  or  nnr  kxif:  Therefore  it  u  vttpr&XKabU,  in  tht  pre* 
tr*t  Halt  offulik  nwa/M,  to  tloubU  our  pretent  revenue  by 
taxation.  Uui  he  adda,  *'  wo  do  nut  affirm  that  tlio  luminal 
or  rvew  tht  > ru  J  amount  of  oar  revenue  < an  never  <i  <Ji*y_/ »; u/c 
/irrnx/  be  drwUl  it»  promt  ma/niled*.1' 

Any  inen-aae  of  r«/  taxation  beyond  the  prevent  auppnanl 
halt  ol'  the  abaolute  produce  of  tli»  land  and  industry  of  ilia 
count* j ,  appear*  certainly  very  difficult ,  but  I  aec  no  Ihoita  to 
the  increase  of  money  luxation,  »  long  ua  the  farmer  U  not 
called  upon  for  a  greater  uumbCT©rbu*h<iU  of  wheat  per  acre, 
or  aa  long  aa  there  arc  nou-labouriug  coiuumcm  in  the  conn- 
try. 

A  ayatem  of  finance  %o  complex  and  artificial  u  that  of 
England  require*  extraordinary  mrana  of  protection ,  and  ih 
import  dutiei  arc  required  to  maintain  a  gold  circulation  and 
avoid  paper  money,  a  tax  on  incutuv  may  not  be  lew  uecwaary 
10  prrvcul  aun-labouhi.g  consumer*  exempting  tltcwseUe* 
from  any  ahare  in  tbe  j.tihlir  burthen  by  living  nut  of  'nr 
country.  Individuals  who  choose  to  invest  tboir  property  un- 
der the  aefeeroard  of  any  particular  country  or  institution  may 
fairly  be  called  upon  for  their  proportion  of  ihc  coat ;  the  re- 
medy U  to  aell  out,  nod  withdraw  their  property  ta  well  a* 
peraotu— .Vote  to  oVrcrnrf  Kditxun. 


J 


222       LONDON'—  DSMXeUTlON  OF  CURHEXCT. 

prices  of  all  things  that  the  Nflrt  of  land  trebled 
in  the  last  fifty  yean.*  The  riat 1<  not  uniform, 
and  depends  materially  on  adventitious  circum- 
cfacs  canals,  roads,  and  capital.  In 
Lincolnshire,  for  instance,  pasturage,  which,  by 
its  nature,  bus  received  r  increase  of  no- 

minal value,  than  that  occasioned  by  the  rji 
nm  of  specie,  rents  DOW  at  40  or  46  shilling 
whit  U  K>  or  50  year*  ago  produced  onl; 
r  20  shillings.    In  other  place*,  the  increase 
is  much  greater.     Tltc  pay  of  klKHiTcrs  was,  50 
years  ago,  something  less  than  a  ahtttinj*  a*day, 
now  <Js.  6d.  or  3*.  a-day.  Country  wages,  by  the 
year  L.&  or  Life  ami  the  labourer  led  ;  now 
I*flO  or  L.2S,  for  men;  and  for  wumcri  tiny 
have  risen  from  I.,  i  Of  I..4,  to  L.8  or  L.9.     Tu 
tlie  same  interval  of  time,  the  prio  of  wheal  has 
quadrupled,  having  risen  [from  $*.  9d-  to  about 
f     Farmers  pay  tJieir  high  rents  now  with 
greater  ease  than  they  did  tlieir  low  one 
ly,  partly  from  tlie  greater  consumption,  readier 


•  Tie  tntr  Mr  Kffrt,  Craig  »  Couti,  Uunpg  Crew,  » 
he  pratofoBf  vrw  lilcfly  to  he  veil  iufotiBCii,  ooafinne- 

t  I  huve  jiiucxed  too  tabic  or  uVprcviuio-j  of  Sir  Gcorj 
ilaurgA  Evelyn,  taken  from  iac  Phil  J  Tmnra* 

lioxu,!..!.  lAXWJII.p.  ITi>;  nhicb  it  m->  proveitf< 
to  compare  with  tlie  depreciation  of  oilier  cunning*. 


C 


I  periods. 


Whea 

P** 

buiheL 


a. 

1050  0 
1150  0 
1250  1 
1350  1 
1450  1 
1550  1 
1600  * 
1625  * 
1650  5 
1675  * 
1700  4 
17*0  * 
1740  3 
1760  3 
1780  4 
1795  7 
181015 
1812 16 


Hone. 


d. 

.3 

5 
10* 

i? 

6 
6 

«| 
*i 

8 

H 

10 

0 
6 


L.  8. 

1  17 

0  12 

1  11 

0  18 


2     2     0 


5  10    0 


19     0     0 


Ox. 


L.  «. 

0    7 

0  4 

1  0 
1  4 
1  15 
1  16 


8    0 
8  10 


V  Scarce  years. 


d. 
6 

8* 

7 
6 
8 

7 


S     6     0 


16     8     0 


Cow. 


L.  tw  d. 

O    6     0 


0 

0 
0  17     0  9 
0  17    20 
0  15    60    4  V 
0  1$    0  0    4    i 


2  17     00  11 


7    7    0 
7    0    0 

16    8    « 


U  ..    . 
1 

1 
1 
2 


6 

7 

1  18 


96 
34 
43 

51 
60 
68 

77 

83 
88 
94 
100 
144 
188 
210 
238 
257 


314 
342 
384 
427 
496 
531 

562 
1000 


L01MOK — DEPRECUTIOX   OF  CUKRKXCY.       £$3 


sale,  and  rii'  of  prices  u  :  vie  produce;  and 
purity  Ix'rauso  they  cultivate  uilli  ido* 

try  :  and  that  those  only  who  have  a  capital,  ven- 

OH  Urge  farms  and  great  rents.  It  docs  not 
appear  that  any  very  great  discoveries  nave  been 
made  in  agriculture ;  the  most  useful  novelty  was 
tlic  introduction  of  Ufftipl  for  animals  and  po- 
tatoes for  men.  With  turnips,  large  flocks  of 
.slurp  arc  kept,  which  not  only  furnish  meat  and 
wool,  but.  fertilize  the  laud,  and  lit  tl  tor  cultiva- 
tion. 

During  the  fifty  years  which  preceded  the  last, 
the  DM  was  not  near  so  o  i  wheat,  in- 

dci  d,  si-cm*  to  baWti  falh-u  from  4*.  .>d.  a  Iki-I  r1 
to  3*.  9d. ;  meat  doubled.  The  rent  of  land  rose 
half,  or  fifty  per  cent. ;  and  it  if  worth  observing, 
that  landlords  found  it  difficult  to  get  tenants, 
while  now,  a  lease  i*  no  sooner  expired,  than  ten 
farmii:  oi!  i  to  take  it.     Upon  the  whole,  the 

buJ  increase  of  prices  has  been  about  felir- 
ioldin  the  lait  hundred  year*.    It  is  oftdttriable, 

that,  mi'.  ;  ...!i;n  ..  inh-lX.o!  a:i  hun- 

dnd  miliini--,  iLir  instance,  represents  now 
twenty  dive  millions,  and  in  another  century  may 
represent  only  six.    Thai  is  an  uflectnal  sinking- 
fund.    The  one  hastens  the  payment  of  the  debt, 
thc<<  .troys  the  del  it  ;  it  extinguishes  witK- 

out  paying  it    The  people  pay  L.},(>oOtooo  for 
interest  on  this  debt,  with  the  same  facility 


2S4-    tosroox—  ditrecmtiox  or  cviwenct. 
• 
would  have  paid  L.  1 ,000,000  .one  hundred 
years  ago;  their  wheat,  their  aheap,  and  their 
labour,  bring  them  four  time*  the  aum  of 
money  they  brought  formerly. 

Taxes  are  prodigious,  but  they  hear  exclusive- 
ly on  the  rich,*  and  as  nobody  is  compelled  to 
be  rich,  he  who  choostt  need  not  pay  taxes. 
Those  who  were  born  to  a  fortune,  or  by  their 
talents  and  industry  have  acquired  one,  under 
the  protection  of  a  provernment  vigorous,  safe, 
and  free,  alone  pay  for  the  support  of  that  go- 
vcniinent;  the  mere  poor  pay  in  fart  nothing. 
Hub  it  probably  the  only  country  in  the  woi 
where  people  make  fortunes  by  sericulture.  A 
farmer,  who  uideMUndi  hi*  business,  becomes 
rich  in  Encland,  with  the  same  degree  of  cer- 
tainty as  in  other  profcssioni  |  while,  in 
countries,  a  farmer  is  condemned,  by  the  nature 
of  his  trade,  to  be  a  mere  labourer  all  his  lite. 
The  depreciation  of  monitor  increase  of  prices, 
is  really  indifferent  tu  those  who  sell,  a\  well  as 
buy.  Those  only  who  live  upon  a  fixed  income, 
— the  lenders  to  government,  for  instance,  who 
buy,  but  do  not  sell,  are  progressively  abridged 
of  their  accustomed  enjoyment*,  ami  fall  back 


•  By  the  rich,  mv  0W  litre  all  the**  who  lire  vilbout  !■• 
aoo?  or  lucrativ*  fircfonion. 


LOMOOM — DEMJXIA7IOX  Of  CCIUIUCCY.       225 

gradually  into  the  rear-rank*  of  society.  It  must 
be  owned,  however,  that  as  they  receive  au  in- 
terest of  four  of  rive  per  cenu  on  their  capital, 
while  the  land-proprietor  does  not  get  more  than 
three  per  cent,  mi  his,  their  Jul  is  nut  so  utiec|iiul 
m  it  appears  at  first  nfht  The  depreciation  ope- 
rates as  u  tax  on  the  national  debt,  on  a  certain 
surplus  of  wealth,  with  which  individual*  fill  up 
tlvc  annual  loans  f  on  the  floating  capital  of  t  bi 
nation,  which  would  otherwise  elude  taxations 
easier  than  any  other  son  of  property.  h  in  in 
/act  the  debt  which  pays  the  debt.  Such  is  the 
great  corrective  principle  of  the  ualionul  debt, 
and  the  reason  of  its  having  been  carried  so  far 
beyond  what  was  deemed  it*  natural  limits  with- 
out any  material  inconvenience  Notwithstand- 
ing die  loud  complaints  against  taxi--,  and  the 
debt,  there  is  not  much  ical  harm  dune,  or  d 
ger  to  apitrdiend ;  and  as  to  ruining  tU  mtKm9 
which  is  a  very  common  expression  here,  it  puta 
me  in  miud  of  the  carpenter,  who,  when  told  by 
some  powerful  perwm,  that  he  would  ruin  him, 
answered,  vorjf  pliiloaophically,  through  mere 
simplicity,  M  Thou  canst  not  ruin  me,  I  am  a  car- 
penter 1"  You  cannot  ruin  a  nation  unless  you 
strew  salt  on  its  fields,  or  dry  up  its  rivers.  There 
is  nothing  mortal,  in  ft  national  point  of  view, 
bat  an  arbitrary  and  corrupt  administration  of 
justice.  A  pure  and  equitable  system  of  lawn* 
vol,  t.  r 


*2G      LONDOK— DZPREC1AT10M  OP  CirflRCKCT. 

ihe  invaluable  gem  which  all  tlie  other  social  in- 
stitutions arc  only  intended  to  guard  and  pre- 
serve inviolate.  In  this  sense,  we  might  say  with 
Pop* 

For  for m*  of  government  let  foolt  contest, 
TbU  which  u  beat  adminihtcrtil  a  boat. 

The  means,  however,  cannot  be  imluYerent  to  tlic 
cm)  proposed,  and  the  object  of  forma  of  gov* 
went  is  precisely  to  secure  that  best  administra- 
tion. 

The  greatest  evil  attending  this  perpetual  rwc 
of  prices,  is,  that  iL  bfginsat  the  wrong  end  j  \rf 
ihe  proceeds  of  labour,  instead  of  the  pay  ofla- 
bour.  The  landed-proprietor  and  his  tenant  are 
taxed ;  the  one  exacts  a  higher  rent,  and  the 
other  a  greater  price  for  his  produce,  and  the  in- 
creased quantity  of  money  »  another  cause  0/ 
rise  of  price*.  The  labourer,  however,  can  no 
longer  procure,  with  his  usual  salary,  the  com- 
Tin  in  necessaries  of  life  for  himself  and  family, 
but,  as  the  demand  for  labour  lia-s  tot  increased, 
and  as  improvements  in  machinery  and  larger 
farms  have  a  tendency  to  diminish  it,  he  has  no 
means  to  enforce  an  increase  of  salary,  and  no 
other  argument  to  offer  than  that  of  his  poverty, 
— and  farmers  are  accused  of  being  a  little  deaf 
to  this  argument.  The  salary  of  labour  then  lag* 
behind  the  advance  of  every  thing  else.   This 


LOKDOS" POPULATION. 


m 


would  lake  place,  at  any  rate,  from  a  more  gene* 
ral  cause,  the  increase  of  population  beyond  the 
demand  for  men ;  and  this  operates  here  like* 
wise.  Perhaps  the  two  causes  ui  it:-.l.  npi-ratf* 
aAcr  all,  only  as  one, — the  dose  of  misery  neces- 
sary to  retard  population  once  administered,  no 
matter  by  whom,  and  the  cftcct  produced,  the 
scarcity  of  labourers  enables  them  to  command  a 
higher  salary.  The  interval  between  the  pa- 
roxysms are  no  doubt  the  shorter,  from  the  acti- 
vity of  the  cause,  but  the  remedy  Is  always  equal 
to  the  disease.     This  unfortunate  struggle  bc- 

ktwoen  a  good  and  a  hud  principle,  bctwren  hun- 
ger and  pleasure,  is,  after  all,  inherent  in  our  na- 
ture, and  social  institutions  arc  not  alone  charge- 
able with  fits  consequences.  The  savage  who 
roves  uncontrolled  by  laws  through  the  wilder- 
ness, n  still  more  immediately  under  the  tyrannv 
of  want  than  the  labourer  of  the  fields  of  Europe, 
and  the  unanswerable  proof  is,  that  he  multiplies 
les>«.  Hut  the  one  is  overtaken  by  an  invisible 
hand,  and  the  other  sees  it,  aM  noun  learny  to 
detest  it.  The  savage  cannot  feci  resentment 
against  the  deer  which  flics  before  him,  or  the 
fish  he  cannot  catch.  The  land  he  did  not  sow 
cannot  be  expected  to  yield  any  thing  to  him  ; 
but  the  labourer,  who  sows  and  docs  not  reap,— 
who  sees  abundance  all  around  him, — who  creates 
it  in  fact,  and  does  not  partake  of  it,— -and  againit 


2S-3 


LONDON' POPULATION. 


whom  a  terrible  law  pronounces  sentence  of  death 
if  he  should  enter  that  granary  which  he  filled, 
to  take  what  his  salary  docs  not  suffice  to  pur- 
chase,— needs  much  virtue,  and  a  soit  of  practi- 
cal morality,  very  meritorious,  to  resign  himself, 
and  endure  in  peace,  lit*  has  a  wile  and  three 
HiiMun,  ptrippt  wod  MfU  iheii  broad  •.-.  nit 
great  difficulty  ;  but  without  this  social  order, 
light  be  told,  without  thi*  rigorous  right  of 
property,  his  family  might  have  already  died 
with  hunger,  or  probably  neither  himself  MS 
them  would  have  ever  existed.  Under  this  social 
order  bull  neighbour  roll*  in  wealth,  while  him- 
self is  restricted  to  mere  necessaries ;  yet  with- 
out it  neither  of  them  would  have  liad  those  mere 
necessaries.  All  this  is  undeniable,  but  if  I  may 
be  allowed  to  use  a  common  expression,  more 
energetic  than  elegant,  "  ventre  qffatni  nfa  point 
dorciUu." 

The  general  principles  of  population  have  been 
so  successfully  elucidated  ten  or  twelve  years 
ago,  in  a  work*  which  has  taken  its  place  by  the 
side  of*  •*  the  Wealth  of  Nations,"  and  other 
works,  farming  the  code  ol"  political  economy, 
that  I  wish  to  refer  my  countrymen  to  it  if  U 
lata  il,  and  if  it  is  not,  I  mention  it  as  one  of  the 


■  Th«  £my  od  l'upuUupri,  by  Mr  Malihu*. 


LOffDOH WEATHER — PICTL'RES. 


1*9 


;toi»  works  that  would  indemnify  llu-ni  u» 
for  the  trouble  of  studying  a  language 
almost  unknown  to  them,  and  offering  an  inex. 
haustiblc  mine  o\'  Imowkdgo,  of*  ideas,  and  of 
imagery.  The  French  have  heart!,  do  donbt»  of 
some  of  the  English  writer*, — they  know  that 
Newton  was  a  great  mathematician,  that  Pope 
wrote  the  Easay  on  Man,— they  admire  Young, 
whom  nobody  reads  in  England,  and  being  "d'u* 
beau  noir"  they  think  it  quite  English, — Slake- 
speare,  they  understand,  has  written  a  number  of 
barbarous  tragedies — and  Milton  a  mad  poem  on 
J'arndisc  Jn*t : — Add  to  these,  two  historian*,  Ko- 
bertsou  and  Hume,  and  you  will  have  the  main 
body  of  English  literature  ion  in  a  crowd  of 
BflglU  norafa  fkbricated  Bt  Auto 

June  6. — There  has  not  been  a  drop  of  rain  for 
the  last  six  weeks  -t  the  verdure  of  die  town  gar- 
dens  is  destroyed,  and  tbc  streets  arc  very  dusty, 
except  the  genteeleat  ones,  which  arc  inundated 
twice  «-day  by  means  of  carts  and  fire-plugs 
communicating  with  the  pipes  underground, 
which  circulate  throughout  Ute  town.  The  win- 
dows  we,  however,  universally  adorned  with 
plants,  quite  fresh  and  luxuriant, — the  reseda 
particularly,  which  perfumes  the  uir  :  thU  luxury 
is  very  general. 

This  is  the  season  of  the  tine  arts.     Several 
•at  collections  ot  pictures  are  open  to  the  pi  il  i 


1» 


LOSD0K— - PA1KTISG. 


lie,  or  at  least  to  the  heart  mende*     We  have  just 
seen  I -on!  (t'rusveiior's.     The  house  is  beMWrt 
a  court  and  a  garden,  in  the  Parisian  style  ;  and 
the  ground-floor  i*  composed  of  a  suite  of  fii 
large  room*,  with  a  hall  in  the  centre.    These 
rooms  are  full  of  pictures  and  all  that  is  not  pic- 
ture i*  red  doth— hangings  carpels  draperies 
over  the  windows,  chairs  and  sofas— every  thin/; 
b  as  red  and  as  sumptuous  a*  possible  ;  the  fringe 
of  the  draperies  cow  six  guineas  a  yard*  Among 
the  pictures,  I  noticed  a  Virgin,  hy  Vanderwerf 
of  DuttcJdorG  most  highly  finished.   A  very  fine 
Bcrghem.     Another  good  landscape  by  Both. 
Two  good   N.  FoiiMin's  and  several  very  bad 
landscapes  by  G.  Pous&in.   A  mOM  oapital  bear's 
figtn  by  Snyder.    Several  bad,  quite  bad  Ita- 
pbacix,  (I  am  a  hardened  sinner.)    The  original 
of  Wolfed  death  hy  West,— not  so  good  ns  the 
excellent  engraving  of  that  picture.    The  battle 
of  the  Hogue  by  the  some  artist  h  admirable.  If 
I  bad  seen  nothing  eke  o\'  Mr  Wc*t,  I  should 
have  a  very  high  idea  indeed  of  his  talent*. 

It  a  mousing  to  sit  in  a  corner,  and  observe, 
SS  they  pass,  the  coimtcnnnre*  of  the  visitors  in 
places  of  this  kind,  staring  round  with  a  total  ab- 
sence of  all  pleasure  and  all  feeling.  Nine-tenths 
of  them  know  and  care  absolutely  nothing  about 
the  picture*  they  look  at,  particularly  the  men. 
Why  then  do  they  conic  >  Because  it  is  fashion- 


UWOOfef — PAJM  17*0 . 


831 


became  it  is  dear  ;  you  give  gold  at 
die  door.    The  English  appear  to  me  to  have 
esteem  than  liking  for  the  fine  arts.  Draw- 
is  no  part  of  men's  education ;  and  I  hold  it 
to  be  the  first  requisite  for  an  amateur  to  be  also 
an  artist ;  although  I  am  aware  thai  the  contrary 
opinion  has  been   maintained.     The  object  of 
painting  is  to  represent  nature  ;  yet  a  good  pic- 
ture is  tar  from  being  a  ccpy  of  nature.    It  is  no 
new  observation*  that  very  green  trees  and  very 
blue  water  do  not  make  a  good  landscape  on 
canvas ;  although  nature  employs  these  very  co- 
lours in  their  most  vivid  hues,  with  tolerable  suc- 
cess But  nature  spreads  over  her  Landscapes  the 
luminous  canopy  of  lu-aveu  ;  iU  brightness  futt 
mt  terrestrial  objects,  and  harmonizes  the  crude 
opposition  of  their  colours.  Artists  have  not  the 
same  resource,  and,  as  they  cannot  illuminate  their 
sky,  they  must  obscure  their  earth ;  repeating  on 
the  lower  key  of  the  instrument  that  harmony 
which  nature  gives  on  the  higher.  As  the  bright- 
ness of  natural  light  is  unattainable,  w>  in  some 
degree  is  its  faiiitne.*!!,  vrhen  reflected  by  distant 
Objects ;  the  effect  called  aerial  perspective  can- 
not be  wholly  produced  on  the  canvas,  without 
gifiog  to  distant  objects  larger  dimensions  than 
they  really  have ; — mountains  represented  under 
their  true  angle  would  look  like  ant-lulls.     His- 
torical subjects,  and  any  others  represented  in 


fiSS 


lohdox— fAmrrxG. 


tin;  interior  of  building*,  hare  not  die  difficulty 
of  the  si.  hut  they  are  not  wholly 

tree  from  those  of  arrial  peftpei  live.  There  is 
our  and  a  distinctness  in  near  objects  so  su- 
perior to  those  in  the  back-ground,  that  the  art- 
ist is  obliged  to  exaggerate  lights  and  shi 
in  order  to  hollow  out  or  to  relieve  the  obstinate 
flatnesa  of  1  d  rm*    The  knowledge  of  the 

manner  of  producing  the  effect  desired,  might 
not,  aitcr  all,  be  necessary  to  judge  of  the  trath 
of  that  eifect,  if  there  was  nothing  arbitrary  in 
it ;  but  it  cannot  be  disputed  that  the  best  pic- 
ture does  not  make  a  similar  impression  on  prac- 
tised nnd  unpractised  eyes.  I  once  lourul  a  ser- 
vant mistaking  the  foam  of  a  cascade  Rn  ladiex 
and  gentlemen  walking  up  and  down  a  hill,  and 
another  complaining  that  a  white  drapery  was 
dirty  on  one  side, — because  it  was  in  shadow. 
The  practical  skill  displayed  by  the  artist  i*  an- 
other very  considerable  source  of  pleasure,  which 
none  hut  artists  can  feel. 

Aa  to  the  poetry  of  painting,  the  power  it  hi 
sometimes  of  speaking  powerfully  to  nnr  ii 
nation  and  our  feelings  does  not  depend  so  much 
on  the  practical  knowledge  of  the  art,  as  the  other 
MHirccs  of  pleasure  received  from  it  do.  Few, 
however,  arc  susceptible  of  such  feelings ;  and 
of  those  few  there  is  no  knowing  how  much  of 
the  emotion  tliey  eijierience  is  due  to  the  in* 


LONDON — PAINTING. 


S33 


triosic  merit  of  tl»e  picture-,  or  to  their  own  over- 
flowing unnajhiliij  Some  particular  cast  of  fea- 
ture*,— an  attitude, — a  look,— a  distant  likeness, 
— the  very  name  of  the  artist* — the  very  time  in 
which  he  lived* — mny  twill  ll  in  them  feelings 
lar  beyond  wlwt  the  brush  and  cauva*  OpCMl 
Am  picture  which  has  some  such  effect  upon 
most  of  those  who  are  susceptible  of  it,  has  in- 
deed a  claim  to  Miperior  excellence;  but  tlut  is 
hardly  ever  the  case.  Few  pictures  are  known 
to  excite  generally  powerful  feelings.  Indeed,  I 
ani  persuaded  that  painting  has  very  little  power 
oftJuu  kind,  compared  to  uiiimc  or  poetry  ;  arid 
tur  tin-  greatest  part  of  the  pleasure  received  is 
only  the  gratification  of  taste,  and  admiration  of 
skill*  Sculpture  has  not  the  same  difficulties  to 
overcome,  and  n»ay  venture  on  a  literal  transla- 
tion of  nature  j  yet  it  rnuit  not  take  painting  for 
auxiliary-.  A  painted  statue  never  was  good 
for  any  thing ;  although  I  own  I  <lo  not  under- 
stand why  it  should  not. 

We  had  been  told,  that,  to  see  the  pictures  of 

Marquis  of  Stafford,  it  was  sufficient  to  ask 

rnmsion  a  few  days  before.    But  wc  received 

printed  answer,  stating,  tlut  "  it  was  necessary 
be  acquainted  with  tha  Mnrrjiiit  itf flttBrfrli  irr 

icommcndcd  by  persons  Ik  'A  dis- 

tinguished arti*T,  Mr  X,  whose  name  cannot 

)os:ii»K  'nc  unknown,  received,  as  1  am  inform- 


454 


LONDON- 


•IC7VR  ti- 


ed by  himself,  the  same  answer.  Mrs  D.  bear* 
ing  of  our  disappointment,  has  since  obtained 
tickets  for  us,  but  they  arc  for  the  next  week, 
when  we  shall  have  Icrl  London.  This  fine  col* 
lection  of  picture*  wax,  I  understand,  becpieu til- 
ed Co  the  Marquis  of  S.,  on  the  express  condition 
of  opening  it  to  the  public.  If,  however,  the 
public  consist*  only  of  those  who  are  acquainted 
with  him  or  his  friends,  it  certainly  narrows  the 
circle  very  much.  Interest,  more  or  leas,  is  also 
required  to  see  any  of  the  other  collections  in 
London,  and  heavy  donations  expected  at  the 
door.  To  the  charge  of  illiberality  it  k  answer- 
ed* that  the  public  is  so  rude,  ignorant,  and  vul- 
gar, that  some  sort  of  selection  is  requisite  ,  and 
that,  even  as  it  is,  it  has  been  found  necessary  to 
exclude  canes  and  umbrellas,  for  fear  the  pic* 
tures  should  be  touched  and  spoiled;  also  the 
pickpockets  might  introduce  themselves  for  the 
sake  of  the  watches  and  handkerchiefs  of  the  con- 
noisseurs. I  think  a  moveable  balustrade  might 
be  placed,  on  ahew-days,  a  few  feet  from  the  pic- 
tures ;  and  as  to  pickpockets,  numerous  as  they 
might  be  formerly,  I  have  not  met  with  any  yet 
The  pride  of  rank  and  fortune  is  so  circumscri- 
bed and  checked  in  this  country  by  the  laws  and 
manners ;  it  encounters  a  certain  equality  of 
rights  always  so  near  it ;  and  has,  comparatively 
with  other  countries,  so  few  personal  advantages. 


XOHFOLX  —  OXBOKOirOH.  $3.5 

that  whenever  it  can  shew  itself  it  does  ;  and  in 
whatever  relates  to  property,  it  is  unrest  mined. 
The  public  lias  certainly  no  right  to  complain 
that  those  who  have  taken  the  troiihii*,  and  have 
been  at  the  expence  of  (bnning  collections,  riiouM 
impose  their  own  terms ;  but  the  obligation  is 
certainly  lew  as  the  terms  are  harder ;  vanity 
and  curiosity  are  mutually  gratified  ;  it  is  ft  fair 
exchange,  and  no  obligation. 

June  12.— Oxborotigh,  Norfolk.— We  arrived 
here  yesterday,  91  miles  in  a  day  and  a  hal£ 
counted  for  *J5  miles,  the  fractions  being  always 
in  favour  of  the  horses.  We  had  heard  a  bad 
charactt'  i  of  tin's  part  of  the  country  for  beauty ; 
but  the  chalky  heaths  about  Newmarket  have 
been  much  inclosed  of  late  years  in  very  large 
fields ;  and  extensive  screen*  of  larclics  and  pines, 
planted  for  the  sake  of  timber,  and  protection 
again**  the  till  wliwlE.  besides  answering  then 
good  purposes,  are  a  great  ornament  The  east- 
erly winds,  which  arc  cold  and  dry,  arc  very  apt 
to  prevail  on  this  coast,  and  are  much  dreaded  ; 
they  have  done  a  great  deal  of  harm  fchfa  spring. 
The  first  process  of  husbandry  on  a  heath,  con. 
sttts  in  peeling  off  the  Mirface,  which  is  effected 
in  a  very  laborious  and  awkward  manner,  by  men 
pushing  before  them,  by  jerks  of  the  middle  part 
of  the  body,  a  very  large  sort  of  Ipode,  iidmg 
under  the  thin  turf  or  heath,  which  is  thrown  up 


936 


K OH  FOLK — AGRICULTURE. 


in  heaps  and  burnt.     It  seems  that  a  machine 
ht  '!<>  thin  as  well,  with  infinite  saving  of  la- 
bour ;  but  I  dare  say  there  is  some  good  reason 
against  it  of  which  I  una  not  aware.     The  scaSfl 
of  agriculture  is  such,  that  I  saw  five  pair  of  line 
lorscs  with  rive  harrows  at  work  in  one  field. 
\\$tj  sow  their  grain  in  drill*,  and  weed  it  by 
leans  of  a  frame  into  which  nine  small  hoe-)  are 
inserted,  alternately,  in  two  rows,  so  as  to  run 
between  nine  lines  or  rows  of  plant*  at  the  same 
time ;  this  weeding  harrow  is  drawn  by  one  pair 
of  horses; — enormous  roller*  arc  mod  to  crush 
and  pulverize  ihe  earth.    The  drought  and  night 
frost  have  done  so  much  harm,  that  farmers  are 
employed  in  many  places  in  ploughing  up  their 
wheat  to  sow  turnips.     Large  farm-houses  are 
seen  with   nil  their  out-houses  aulxstantial  and 
complete  ; — very  few  cottages.     1  do  not  know 
how  anil  where  the  common  labourers  live,  those 
in  the  field*  t\o  not  appear  poor  or  in  rag*;— 
farmers  on  horseback    ride  about  overlookil 
their  labourers ;  they  look  like  rich  manufactu- 
rers, not  at  all  like  peasants.  Agriculture  hi  evi- 
dently not  a  beggarly  trade  here.     Large  f1»<  U 
of  ragged  sheep,  with  long  black  legs  and  noses, 
range  about  the  heath,  disputing  with  innui 
able  i  very  blade  of  grass;  the  latter  ai 

seen  |>opping  in  and  out  of  their  holes  in  every 
direction.  The  Norfolk  sheep  give  the  best  Eng- 


N0EFOLK— ASSET  OF  CASTLE  ACRE.    £3/ 


iiab  wool,  next  to  the  South  Down  •,  the  price 
35s.  for  ?alt>.  No  Merinos  here-  Rabbiu  sell 
at  6d.  the  carcass  and  I*  to  '2s.  6*1.  the  skin. 
Bi*ck  -cattle  here  have  no  horns;  of  an  accident 
they  have  made  a  species ;  I  do  not  know  whe- 
ther there  13  any  utility  in  it,  but  llierc  certainly 
is  no  beauty. 

About  fifty  orihfl  Bon  Lcerionj  on  a  rising 
ground,  we  observed  two  barrowa  about  SO  feet 
high,  and  near  them  ■  deep  trench  across  the 
plum  »  these  mounds  are  probably  of  Danish  ori- 
gin,covering  heaps  of  bones  of  the  slain  in  battle. 
June  15.— The  Abhry  of  Castle  Acre  is  tho 
first  Gothic  ruin  we  have  seen  in  a  country  which 
possesses  so  many.    This  is  a  fine  Anglo-Norman 

•  -. ;  the:  weatern  front  in  guud  prtscrvsr 
light,  and  the  ornaments  admirably  finished.  I 
took  a  sketch  of  it.  The  ruins  cover  a  great 
space  ;  some  people  were  employed  in  removing 
part  of  them  ; — 1  hope  this  profanation  will  not 
srried  too  far.  A  few  miles  i;utiierf  we  were 
n  the  rcuuDfl  of  a  tint,  ekbtt  Bomsui  or 
Daiii.th,  nowJM  remarkable  but  by  the  material* 
of  its  walls,  formed  of  a  confused  mass  of  fi 
in  a  oniiiiion  bed  of  mortar  01  1  emntg  m  luml  a* 
the  flints  ilu'uirti'.'.  -  i  the  whole  is  like  a  perfect 
rock.  The  soil  seems  extremely  barren,  and 
hardly  fit  for  cultivation,  yet  the  finest  farms  are 
leen  everywhere,  and  the  inhabitants  look  quite 


BSS 


BURY  ST  EDMONDS. 


bifid 


rents  lrt>m  1.5*.  In  405.  an  acre. 
And  sclb  at  thirty  years  purchase  ;  in  wmc  easel 
land  has  sold  at  forty,  fifty,  or  even  eighty  years 
purchase ;  but  the  Utter  price  wis  in  conse- 
quence  of  game,  or  some  other  peculiar  advan- 
tage. An  intelligent  eapitaliit  of  London,  Mr  A. 
has  purchased  a  great  tract  of  fand  hereabouts  at 

Miy  low  price,  in  pursuit  of  some  great  scheme 
of  improvement.  'Hie  slocks  give  uneasiness  ; 
foreign  commerce  is  still  more  precarious  at  pre- 
sent; tfeosd  rirriiinslancrs  throws  larger  capital 
into  agriculture  than  its  share  in  ordinary  times. 
The  consequence  is,  a  greater  abundance  of  na- 
tural products,  and  prices  rather  lower  than  they 
wonld  otherwise  be;— that  is  to  say,  that  the 
rapid  rise  of  prices  is  a  little  retarded,  and  that 
the  salary  of  labour  has  a  little  more  time  given' 
it  to  overtake  the  general  advance,  which  is  all 
the  great  mass  or  the  people  need  care  about. 

A  gentleman  in  this  neighbourhood  has  a  cabi- 
net  of  porcelain,  made  in  Italy  in  Raphael**  time, 
and  painted  from  his  designs.  The  lustre  of  this 
name  is  the  greatest  merit  both  of  the  drawings 
and  of  the  ware.  The  same  gentleman  has  some 
good  pictures  of  Vandyke,  Leonardo  da  Vinci, 
and  Rembrandt,  my  favourite  painters ;  and  we 
admired  his  fine  lawns  and  majestic  shades. 

June  IS.— Bury  St  Edmonds.  Wc  left  oar 
friends  Ais  morning,  grateful  for  the  warm  r#. 


BURY  tT  r.DMONM. 


no 


cent  ion  we  have  met  with,  ami  melancholy  at  the 
idea  thai,  at  their  age,  we  are  not  likely  to  see 
them  again.  This  venerable  couple  b  attended 
by  an  only  daughter;*  and  filial  duties  never 
were  more  charmingly  discharged,  with  that 
cheerful  constancy  which  knows  no  impatience, 
no  disgust,  no  weariness, — that  total  forge tt'ul- 
nesB  of  self,  compared  to  which  the  virtual  of 
heroes  sink  to  nothing.  The  country  we  have 
passed  is  much  the  same  as  described  before, 
chalk  and  flints,  with  a  thin  layer  of  vegetable 
sod, — immense  fields,  without  inclosute*  of  any 
sort, — no  buildings  in  sight.  Some  parta  of  these 
plains  give  the  idea  of  the  sea.  Farming  is  con- 
ducted in  the  lame  extensive  style.  We  olm- 
ten  ploughs  at  work  together  in  the  same  held, 
fifth  <ach  a  pair  of  very  fine  horses;— no  oxen 
used  in  agriculture-  Few  villages,  and  those  by 
□o  means  pretty  ;  hut  no  appearance  of  poverty. 
XfcC  hotlMb  ;n. !:v'i,  poor  riu.;i^li  on  the  out- 
side, — but  the  casement*  in  good  repair, — the 
ra  clean,— and  the  people  with  decent  work- 
-clothcs  on,  and  healthy  looks.  No  beggar* 
at  all  to  be  .teen*  Tlie  rinds,  made  of  pounded 
Mint,  are  hard  and  smooth  j — the  luuses  fly  alonx- 


•  Tfcb  amialilo  woman  died  unexpectedly  three  month*  after 
we  left  the  place.    Doth  parent*  followed  tier  to  UK  grave  i 


*c»  weeks  after. 


240    BURY  iT  EDMONDS— PtUCES  OF  MEAT,  Ac 

It  ii  certainly  a  pleasurable  sensation  to  be  thus 
transported  with  case  and  swiftness,  and  without 
fatigue  or  exertions, — a  la/.y  sort  of  selfish  pi) 
aure,  however,  which  one  feeb  almost  asluuned 
of  enjoying. 

The  price*  arc  hen-,  forbro.!,  1  i;d.  the  quar- 
tern loaf  of  five  lb.;  licet",  'Jd.  to  lOd. ;  mutton, 
9d. ;  veal,  bd.  (thi*  is  tlic  cheap  time  of  veal ;) 
pork,  10a.  for  24  lb. ;  all  these  are  nearly  Loo- 
don  prices : — Labour  by  the  week  in  summer, 
14s. ;  in  winter,  12s.  Workmen  find  themselves 
eveu  in  small  beer.  Women  fid.  a-day.  Wheat 
is  6ls.  for  a  comb,  or  17  stone,  being  H3H  lb. 
(equal  to  14*.  sterling,  or  three  dollars  for  aa 
American  bushel  of  60  lbs.  which  costs  there 
about  two  dollars  ;)  coala,  45s.  a  chaldron  oi  :W> 
bushels ;  Hour,  85s.  per  sack  of  SO  stone,  ok 
280  II,.. 

A  private  gentleman  of  this  county,  a  great 
agriculturist,  and  particularly  a  great  slwep-  breed- 
er, has  a  territorial  income  of  L.6O,000  n-year. 
He  wanted  Mr  Pitt  to  make  him  Lord  Leicester, 
but,  not  succeeding,  be  turned,  and  has  been 
ever  since  a  great  Foxitc  !  ■   He  influences  the 

•  Thi*,  the  author  unJei  lUmli,  w  *  niiitake.  Mr  Pill,  m  it* 
u  now  \ntatmtd,g*vr  the  title  of  l*\eft..Tt  .  l.nrA  rcmntticwTi 
•on,  oul  of  spttc  to  Mr  C — ,  bcc*u«,  pmhably,  be  aui  Mm  m 
Foititt,  irutv*!  of  Iwiug  bvuuma  onu  /««.— AV*  to  Sxomi 
SdHim. 


MOVOE.K-— STATE  OF  SOCIETY. 


Ml 


election  for  rooU  of  the  members  for  Norfolk, — 
defeat cil  Mr  Windfall  once,— and  another  time 
was  the  mean*  of  securing  his  return  Mr  Wind* 
ham  Inst  his  swat  ultimately,  on  account,  of  cer- 
tain practices  deemed  corrupt  proved  against 
him  ;  probably  he  would  not  condescend  to  do 
secretly  wfcat  lie  heJd  right  in  ittelf,  md  the 
legit;  id   salutary   influence  of  property. 

Another  private  gentleman  of  this  county,  re- 
siding very  mat  Newmarket,  the  Lite  MVTli.  re- 
turned his  income  for  the  income-tax  at  L.S.J.OOO 
a-year.  Von  hear  everywhere  in  England  of  these 
prineeh  tea. 

After  spending  three  days  agreeably  at  Bury 
St  Edmonds  wc  continued  our  journey  towards 
London,  by  Cambridge.  1  am  inclined  to  think 
English  society  pleasanteat  out  of  Lorn  Ion.  There 
is  more  leisure,  as  much  information,  and  man- 
ner* equally  good;  for  nobody  is  provincial  in 
this  country.  You  meet  nowhere  with  tho*e  per- 
rons who  never  were  out  of  their  native  place, 
and  wlMe  halm*  are  wholly  local, — nobody  above 
poverty  who  buu  I  London  once  in  hw 

life;  and  ttOftt  of  tm>e  who  can,   visit  it  once 
a-year.   To  go  up  to  town  from  iOO  or  too  miles 
<!iit:mce,  in  a  thing  done  on  a  sudden,  and  with 
out  any  previous  deliberation.     In  France,  the 
people  of  the  province)*  used  to  make  their  will 

vol.  r.  q 


u% 


KORFOLK — STATE  01'  S0CJBTV. 


before  they  undertook  such  an  expedition.  Cul- 
tivation of  mind,  and  elegance  of  manners,  arc 
more  conspicuous  comparative  I y  among  wornei* 
than  among  men.  There  b  more  difference  be- 
tween the  women  of  this  country  und  those  I 
have  seen  elsewhere,  than  between  the  men  of 
the  same  countries  respectively.  The  men  appear 
to  me  less  universal  than  they  were  in  France, 
formerly  at  least ;  but  they  know  better  what 
they  do  know.  They  arc  less  apt  to  say  every 
thing  wluch  comes  into  their  heads, — they  think 
before  they  speak,— .they  have  Jes*  vanity,  and 
more  pride.  Has  is  wise  and  respectable,  but 
does  not  form,  perhaps,  a  slate  of  society  very 
log.  The  women  are  no  less  remarkable  for 
their  discretion  and  reserve ;  but  it  is  the  reserve 
of  modesty  instead  of  that  of  pride, — not  volun- 
tary nor  insurmountable. 

Commercial  communications  and  exchanges 
aie  not  bottrr  established  here,  or  upon  an  easier 
and  more  convenient  footing,  than  mental  ones. 
riiait-,,  jKilitrrs,  fashions,  even  the 
mait  frivolous,— every  thing  that.  Call  interest  the 
uiind  of  all  descriptions  of  persons  who  have  any 
mind  at  all,  circulates  through  its  appropriate 
channel,  day  by  day,  week  by  week,  or  quarter 
by  quarter,  to  the  remotest  comer  of  the  coun- 


try as  regularly  and  abundantly  a*  in  London. 

Kverv  body  finds  on  his  table,  at  stated  davs  and 

- 


NORFOLK — STATE  Of  SOCIETY". 


243 


hours,  tiic  newspaper,  the  journal,  or  the  review, 
to  which  lie  subscribes  ;  and  if  he  cannot  afford 
lo  subscribe,  he  will  at  least  find  all  thc*e  things 
at  the  circulating  library,  the  read ing-room,  or 
the  bookclub  of  the  next  little  town  or  village. 
He  may  know  exactly,  let  bis  life  be  otberwi«t 
ever  so  obscure  and  solitary,  what  is  going  on  at 
court,  in  parliament,  at  the  opera  3  what  routs, 
births,  deaths,  marriages,  and  elopements  liavc 
taken  place  among  people  of  coniequ'  .  Deep- 
er works  will  give  him  die  spirit  and  criticism  of 
most  literary  novelties,  on  abstruse,  eddying,  or 
amusing  subjects  Novels,  in  shoals,  vill  finally 
serve  to  till  up  any  portion  »l  Ins  time,  his  whole 
life  if  he  please*,  with  every  variety  of  sentimental 
distress*-*  and  pleasures  the  human  faculties  arc 
capable  of  feeling.  Poetry  U  so  happily  culti- 
vated in  KnglumL,— die  prescut  generation  par- 
ticularly has  produced  10  many  admirable  spe- 
cimens of  it, — that  the  feelings  it  imparts  arc 
become  familiar.  Women,  with  more  time,  more 
curiositv,  SIM]  livelier  feelings  than  men,  know 
better  bow  to  avail  themselves  of* these  opportu- 
ne Uocturc  of  science,  of  literatim* 
and  of  every  accomplishment,  is  ill  general  mu 
mixed  with  pedantry.  It  is  an  everyday  dress 
which  they  arc  at  ease  in,  ami  does  not  unfit  them 
for  the  common  business  of  lite,  and  the  duties 
of  their  station.     1  do  not  know  whether  this 


444 


KOHrOI.K — ftOOK-*OCI£TIfc6. 


light  and  easy  regimen  is,  generally  speaking, 
calculated  to  form  strong  and  original  constitu- 
tions of  mind  ;  such,  however*  thrive  under  any 
PW91  i,  when  the  germ  and  power  are  in 

us  i  and  England,  of  all  countries  in  the  world, 
aliews  tlw  least  signs  of  mental  fccblcncse  and 
enervation  among  its  inhabitants. 

There  are  almost  everywhere  book-societies  01 
clubs,  variously  constituted.  They  arc  generally 
composed  of  ten  or  twelve  persons,  contributing 
annually  a  certain  sum  for  the  purchase  of  books* 
Any  of  them  may  propose  a  book,  which,  when 
read  by  all  the  associates  who  chouse,  in  put  up 
for  sale  among  them.  The  person  who  recom- 
mended the  purchase  is  obliged  to  take  it  at  half 
price,  if  no  one  bids  higher.  The  annual  contri- 
bution is  commonly  from  otic  to  four  guineas. 

The  English  arc  very  fond  of  biography  and 
poxihuinou*  letter*  of  illustrious  persona.  The 
French  literature  abounds  in  mtmoircs> — the  Kng* 
lish  in  lives  and  letters.  It  is  the  goscipiug  of 
clever  people,  ami  it  must  be  owned  that  there 
is  a  great  charm  in  this  reading  ;  you  seem  to 
lift  a  corner  of  the  veil  which  covers  the  human 
!,  and  even-  man  feels  a  curiosity  to  com* 
pare  that  of  others  with  his  own.  They  do  not 
routine  themselves  to  English  lives  and  letters, 
I  hero  are,  for  instance,  Mad.  du  Defland's  let- 
ter*, published  in  London  in  French,  and  Mad 


CAMBRIDGE — UNIVERSITY. 


'.'45 


2 

liu 


ne*s  memoir*,  (genuine  or  not,  very  intc- 
ing.)  We  arc  very  proud  in  France  of  Out 
language  being  the  polite  language  of  I*un>pc, 
tin-  diplomatic  Language,  and  even  of  our 
ing  do  otlter.  A  blind  man  might  a*  well 
be  proud  that  every  body  looks  at  him,  while  lie 
does  not  look  at  any  one.  The  English  see  from 
their  window*  across  the  channel  all  that  passes 
on  the  continent  \  hear  all  that  is  said,  and  read 
all  that  in  published,  without  translation,  and  in 
its  original  form  ;  and  they  arc  for  better  an  fait 
of  our  literature,  ancient  and  modern,  than  we 
are  in  the  province*  of  France. 

We  visited  Cambndge  on  our  way  to  London. 
This  little  town  contains  the  celebrated  universi- 
ty, or  rather  the  university  contains  the  town. 
Several  of  the  colleges  are  magnificent ;  but  the 
chapel  of  one  of  them  (  King's  College)  attracts 
general  attention.  It  b  a  long  square*  316"  feet 
by  84,  of  a  singularly  light  and  beautiful  Gothic. 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  high  finish  of  the  inside ; 
immense  painted  windows  separated  by  light 
pier-*,  pun;  in  a  fine  temperate  light,  and  make 
the  Gothic  arch,  fcO  feeL  above  your  head,  appear 
wtpended  in  the  air.  The  curious  are  conduct- 
over  this  arch,  and  walk  over  the  thin  flat 
ones,  with  the  consciousness  that  a  mere  shell, 
not  more  than  four  or  five  inches  in  thickness, 
Jooe  separate*  them  from  a  blessed  eternity. 


246 


caxmlpcu;-— UKIYI.OITV. 


Yet,  at  the  very  summit  of  thi»  thin  arch,  large 
blocks,  twelve  in  number,  ami  each  weighing  a* 
ton,  arc  set  on,  aud  held  there  by  the  simple  la- 
teral presiure  of  the  other  stones  of  the  thin 
arch.  These  block*  arc  seen  from  beJow  carved 
in  rosea.  Ton,  or  twelve  tcct  above  this  *r 
alight  roof,  covered  %v itU  lead,  from  which  the 
vien  is  veiy  extensive.  A  vexy  large  and  power. 
ful  organ  and  its  screen  divide  in  two  parts  the 
length  of  the  chapel.  That  screen,  made  ot  tab 
v., Kitl,  wax  carved  all  q\  the  utmost  cars 

and  labour,  neai  throe  centuries  ago  •,  and  the 
true  lover**  knots,  and  other  ornaments,  are  al- 
legorical of  the  then  recent  union  of  the  unfortu- 
nate Anna  Hnlevn  with  Henry  \'IIJ.  This  king, 
notwithstanding  the  aliueity  of  his  character,  vixs 
the  friend  of  letters,  and  a  benefactor  of  the  uni- 
versity. The  most  celebrated  of  the  colleges  at 
Cambridge  is  Trinity  College,  founded  by  hmi. 
We  =aw  there  a  very  line  statue  of  Sir  Isaac  NYu. 
ton  in  white  marble,  by  Roubiliac.  The 
has  contrived  to  make  a  good  drapery  ol 
lessor's  robe.  Sir  Isaac  Newton  holds  a  prism  ii 
his  hand,  and  looks  up.  J  lis  features  arc  large 
and  regular ;   and  the  expression  of  hi  e> 

nance  simple  and  sagacious, — not  unlike,  I  think, 
to  Montesquieu's.  The  apartment  of  the  philo- 
sopher i*  shewn.  The  University  library  is  very 
large,  and  contains  90.000  volume*.  Dt  CUrke, 


(MMBKfnGn — fiUlMMlCAL  G.tRDLX* 


2*7 


whose  voyages  arc  before  the  public,  has  enrich- 
cd  this  university  with  antique  marbles,  rare  ma- 
nuscripts, and  plant*-,  and  he  has  deposited  in 
the  library  a  very  curious  cast  of  Charles  XII.  the 
mouhl  having  been  taken  on  his  fare  four  hours 
after  hi*  death  at  Fredcrickshall.  The  hole  made 
by  the  hall  is  visible  a  little  above  the  right  eye. 
Trie  mouth  has  a  remarkable  expression  of  con- 
tempt, and,  upon  the  whole,  it  much  resemble* 
the  portraits  seen  of  him.  I  was  employed  In 
sketching  this  cast,  when  one  of  the  under  libra- 
rians objected  to  its  being  done,  without  permis- 
sion being  previously  obtained ;  another,  how- 
ever, stepped  forth  in  defence  of  thp  arts  and 
siid  the  permission  waa  not  necessary.  During 
the  altercation  resulting  from  this  conflict  of  au- 
thoritics,  1  finished  my  sketch,  which  is  very 
like ;  and  did  not  fail  to  shew  my  gratitude  to 
the  good-natured  librarian.  We-  had  a  letter  of 
introduction,  but  the  professor  to  whom  it  waa 
addressed  being  absent,  our  only  passport  to  the 
curiosities  of  the  place  was  one  which  is  very  ge- 
nerally welcome^  ami  in  Kngland,  perhaps,  more 
<o  titan  any  where  ehe. 

There  is  a  liotamcal  garden  attached  to  the 
university,  and  a  lecturer,  but  who  docs  not  lec- 
ture ;  his  chair  is  a  sinecure.  The  garden  ap- 
pears well  kept ;  but  the  plants  grow  and  Mou* 
jisii  in  vain  ;  the  students,  as  we  learnt  from  the 


iT4# 


CAMBRIDGE— A  OiAVf. 


gardeners,  living  no  taste  fi>r  this  exotic  fodder. 
Cambridge  »,  or  was  formerly,  the  whig  univer- 
sity, and  Oxford,  on  the  contrary,  in  the  high 
tor)'  principle  a.  ( lur  guide  informs  us  that 
bridge  may  boewt  of  the  -iddimiiy  of  Milton, 
enthusiasm  of  Gray,  the  great  discoveries  of 
con  and  of  Newton,  the  penetration  of  .Milin  i. 
ami  (lie*  r-nuluirin  of  Parson ;  and  among  its 
children  reckons  besides  several  holy  martyrs, 
Craunicr  and  Latimer, — Kidlry  and  Wishart : — i 
he  might  have  added  to  the  illustrious  men,  Pitt, 
— and,  I  believe.  Fox  also.  The  guide  I  have 
mentioned  is  I  little  book,  containing  the  h: 
of  the  place,  and  a  description  of  all  if*  ciiriosi- 
tic?.  There  is  no  place  of  any  note  in  England 
which  has  not  its  printed  guide,  with  which  the 
servants  of  the  inn  arc  eager  to  furnish  you.  This 
one  inform*  me,  that,  during  the  period  of  revo- 
lutionary fan  whici  led  Claries  I.  t< 

.M,  Cambridge,  notwithstanding  its  whig, 
gimi,  Buffered  more  than  Oxford. 

Some  miles  beyond  Cambridge  we  found,  at 
one  of  the  inns,  a  boy  oi'  eighteen,  seven  feet 
nine  inches  high  !  I  had  never  wen  a  giant,  and 
iilt  ri.  When  String  hbchair 
seemed  likely  to  be  crushed  by  his  weight,  as 
well  as  the  table  on  which  he  rested  his  elbow  ; 
his  feet  and  hands  were  particularly  enormous  ; 
and  when  he  rose,  and  crossed  tlte  room  in  two 


LONDON— A  UCKf. 


-4' 


Arm. 

KHIT1 


itridcs  willi  hi*  head  appearing  to  touch  Uic 
ceding,  it  wua  «t-i  11  mure  extraordinary  :— 11  nam 
above  the  middle  size  could  easily  pass  mides  Ins 
This  monstrous  disproportion  with  sur- 
mliog  objects  overthrew  all  received  ideas, 
almost  an  much  as  if  houses  luid  been  seen  mo- 
ving, sod  dogs  am!  Ik. t sea  with  wings  flying  in 
t  J  il-  air.  If  tins  appears  an  exaggeration,  I  can 
only  refer  to  a  sight  of  my  giant.  He  confessed 
that  be  could  not  lift  a  greater  weight  than  ano. 
ill.  i  man,  and  a  walk  of  four  of  ins  mile*  was  a 
g<K>d  deal  for  liim.  His  voice  was  strong, 
without  being  in  proportion  to  his  body;  big 
bones  but  not  yet  well  covered  with  muscles, 
and  be  did  not  look  as  if  he  had  done  growing. 
He  docs  not  eat  nmch  ;  his  large  mild  eyes  look- 
ed heavy,  but  he  spoke  scnailjly.  He  told  us  that 
his  father  and  mother,  brothers  and  sisters,  were 
all  of  common  size* 

June  29. — London,  after  <uch  a  long  residence 
in  it,  appears  like  a  sort  of  home;  wc  arc  prepa- 
ring, however,  ti>  leave  it  for  a  very  lung  tour, 
by  the  West  of  England,  Scotland,  and  return 
by  the  EasL  Aliens  are  required  in  lime  of  war 
to  apply  at  the  alien-office,  every  three  months, 
for  a  license  to  reside ;  a  British  subject  must 
join  in  the  application-  For  such  a  journey  as 
ours  I  have  been  required  to  name  the  principal 

daces  through  which  wcarc  to  pass,  which  does 


950       LONDON— FLAGTJES  AND  C«EAT  FIRE. 

□ot  exactly  agree  with  our  wandering  plan*,  and 
threatens  difficulties.  I  am  far  from  blaming  any 
proper  precautions  ;  Nit  there  *wms  to  be  very 
little  to  fear  here  from  spying  or  from  a  *ur- 
priae ;  the  publicity  of  every  thing  renders  the 
one  usetesa,  and  the  sea  renders  the  other  inv 
potable. 

Before  leaving  the  capital,  I  have  to  remark, 
formerly  it  w»  subject  to  frequent  visitation! 
of  the  plague.  From  159*  to  1665  this  frightful 
epidemic  appeared  fire  times ;  viz.  150-!,  1603, 
1815,  163B,  ami  166.5,  carrying  off  one-fifth  of 
the  inhabitant*  each  time.  At  the  last  period, 
(1 065)  9*7,000  persons  pen'stlied  by  the  plague  in 
London;*  (as  many  aa  1200  a-day.)  The  fol- 
lowing year  (1666),  the  great  lire  destroyed 
KViiX)  houses  out  of  66,QOO,  that  is  Uic  fifth 
part  ot*  the  city ;  but  it  was  the  part  the  moat 
crowded,  old,  and  ill-built ;  and  since  that  time 


•  The  plague  carried  off  300,000  vidian  at  Rome,  under 
Nero  i  that  it  three  out  often,  instead  of  two  out  often  as  in 
Lyndon  ; — and  much  morv  recently  at  Muneillea.  in  1730,  the* 
plague  dcattoyvd  £0,000  »habtunu  ;  Uiai  U  to  mt,  probably 
more  oVan  half  the  uwwh«r^— a»  Mar*  tiles  in  iu  moat  proaper- 
oua  timea  (i"B0),  conuuiiud  only  90XO0  inhabitant*.  TUo 
U'tt  plague,  which  ravaged  tlic  whole  carih  during  fifty-two 
yeara,  from  5W  to  5JM,  depopulated  entirely  and  left  empty  a 
number  of  towva. 


. 


L  OK  HON — rLAVVkS  A.f  D  GBUT  tIRK.        $£| 


the  plague  has  not  again  appeared  !  It  is  difficult 
not  to  admit  the  belief  that  llu-  disorder  OBBCd 
cither  its  origin  or  its  progress  to  the  *!atc  of 
things  existing  in  tltat  put  of  ihc  town,  or  to  a 
certain  germ  destroyed  by  the  fire.  It  in  remark, 
able,  that  tliet*  two  successive  devastations,  the 
plague  ami  tbc  fire,  far  from  diminishing  perma- 
nently the  town  or  iu  population,  seem  to  have 
operated  as  an  encouragement;  for  iu  1686, 
(twenty  years  afterward*),  we  find  the  number 
of  bouses  iu  London  iocrea&ed  to  69,000,  and  the 
number  of  inhabitant*  from  500,000  to  695,000. 
It  is  true,  that,  betides  these  two  cxtraoidinary 
came*  "i  increase  arid  prosperity,  iire  and  the 
plague,  there  had  been  a  third,  atill  more  active, 
although  less  local  r  for  Sir  William  Petty,  a  Otto 
temporary  author  of  great  reputation  in  political 
arithmetic,  informs  us,  tiiat  in  ten  years  of  the 
same  interval  ot  time,  the  civil  wars  had  destroy- 
ed the  fortieth  part  of  the  people  (  that  is  to  say, 
twice  as  many  all  over  the  country  as  the  plague 
had  done  in  London.  We  find  that  during  i 
time  which  preceded  the  cessation  of  the  plague, 
the  increase  of  population  of  London  had  been 
still  more  considerable  in  pro|>urtion,  than  du- 
ring the  twenty  years  which  followed  it,  the  num. 
lers  laving  doubled  at  every  period  of  40  yean* : 
they  were  77,000  in  1565,  and  6&9&W  in  the 
yesr  Ir>H2-    The  population  of  the  rest  of  the 


I.O.NDO* — rOPHLATIO.V. 

kingdom  did  not  increase  nor  so  rapidly ;  for  the 
population  of  England,  from  5.326\flOO  in  t$6$9 
came  only  to  7,360,000  in  the  year  io*h?,  inclu- 
ding London,  which  forms  (he  eleventh  part  of 
the  whole* 

Sir  William  Petty  indulged  himself  in  specu- 
lations on  the  future  increase  of  London,  and 
Id  !««?,  it  would  contain  5,359,000 
inhabitants  and  all  England,  9,885,000.  This 
last  prediction  lias  been  very  curiouily  confirm- 
ed by  the  event,  for  in  180*  the  census  gave 
9.706,379  for  Kngiaml  and  Wales ;  but,  fhr  from 
finding  such  an  enormous  proportion  of  that  |K>- 
pubtion  accumulated  in  the  < v.pitul  in  isos,  vre 
find  only  890,439  ;  therefore  the  increase  ot  Lon- 
don, however  great,  has  advanced  at  a  very  re- 
tarded rale,  and  it  will  be  more  and  more  retard* 
cd.  In  support  of  the  possibility  of  this  prodi- 
gious extent  of  London,  Sir  William  Petty  ob» 
serves,  that  a  well-cultivated  space  of  country, 
forming  the  area  of  a  circle  of  70  miles  in  dia- 
meter, would  suffice  to  feed  this  .5,000,000  of  in- 


•  Sir  William  Petty  citimutc*  the  population  of  KngUnd  *t 
the  Conquest,  in  1060,  tt  two  millions  only;  which,  compered 
1  n  the  Ute  ecn*u»,  shewi  the  population  lo  hove  doubled  Vtry 
■■'  10  jm  BjM*  of  the  canier  calculation*,  liow«r«r,  tfO  St 
all  10  \hj  rolivd  ou. 


LONDON — POPULATION. 


258 


Lbitants,  at  two  acre*  a  head.*  Notwithstand- 
ing this  pretended  possibility,  the  prophet  rois* 
'uited  his  own  prediction,  and  id  I  into  another 
iistakc,  pronouncing,  that  the  increase  of  Lon- 
don would  reach  its  maximum  and  stop  before 
the  year  1800,  which  has  not  happened,  and  i$ 
not  likely  to  happen  soon.  The  /act  is  that  the 
ratio  of  increase  became  slower  much  sooner 
than  he  expected ;  and,  far  from  coming  to  its 
tnaximum,  it  is  impossible  to  say  when  it  will 
rvneh  it.  All  the  great  towns  in  Eiigiaud  united* 
Irom  Manchester,  uhn-Ii  contains  84,000  iuhaln. 
tanta,  to  Cambridge,  which  contains  only  10,000, 
gave,  in  1802.  a  total  of  1,076,000,  tliat  is,  with 
London,  2,000,000  of  town  people,  supported 
and  defended  by  7  or  8,000*000  of  peasants,  sol- 
diers sailor*,  &c.  It  is  very  |K>s»iblc  tlut  Eng- 
land  might  support  twice  its  present  number  of 
inhabitants*  considering  the  great  quantity  of 
uncultivated  land  ;  but  these  lands  arc  probably 
IpfcriQC  m  quality,  and  might  require  twice  the 
umbef  of  la!>ourcrs  sufficient  for  the  good  lands 
now  in  culture  ;  therefore,  although  the  popula- 
tion of  England  might  double,  that  of  the  towns 


•  Political  Arithmetic,  p.  I!».  Thi*  ralcnlution  larcrUmljr 
Trornou* ;  nich  a  circle  wouM  ennUiln  abort  2..WO.00O  ncrri* 
•od  at  two  oats  a-hoiU  would  fcttl  only  I.V^O.UUO  prnotu. 


* 


234        LONDOX — POPt;LAT10>C-**SAI.liBUBy. 

oiukl  not  possibly  ;  and  there  is  no  risk  i 

njr,  that  the  population  of  London  will  m  rei 
exceed  a  million  and  a  half,  and  the  other  towns 
ia  proportion. 

Following  Sir  William  Petty  in  his  conjectures, 
it  is  curious  to  sec  him  foretell  that  London 
would  extend  principally  towards  the  wist,  for, 
he  says,  the  wind  is  westerly  three-fourths  of  the 
year,  and  driving  the  smoke  from  that  part  of  the 
town  over  to  the  eastern  part,  gives  the  forme/ 
a  great  advantair.-  uf  afun  ,  which  imiAlde- 

tcrminc  people  of  easy  fortunes  to  inhabit  it  in 
preference,  drawing  after  them  all  the  tradesmen, 
&c  wlio  live  by  them.  M  In  five  hundred  years 
the  kin^s  palace,"  be  continues, "  will  bt:  at  Chet 
icea,  (the  Kin*  is  now  building  a  palace,  at  Kcw, 
beyond  -Clvclsca)  ;  unices  indeed,  by  that  time, 
we  may  be  transplanted  to  America,  and  Europe 
wholly  overrun  and  laid  waste  by  the  Turks,  as 
the  Eastern  Kmpine  was !" — Should  this  great 
emigration  take  place,  wc  rather  think  it  will 
not  be  owing?  to  the  poor  Turks, 

July  5. — Salisbury. — Wc  arc  just  arrived  here 
in  two  day?*  from  Londun,  by  way  of  SakniU, 
Reading,  Andover,  5cc  and  wepaascd  byStonc- 
hengc  two  hours  ago.  Salisbury  plain  is  a  verj 
extensive  tract  of  country,  perhaps  fifteen  01 
twenty  miles  across,  witliout  a  tree  or  a  house, 
sad  almost  without  any  plant  higher  than  a  short 


SALISBURY— STONF.HKNOE. 


2j. 


blaJo  of  pass,  being  fed  down  by  immense  flocks 
of  sheep.  Tin*  surface  is  not  Rut  but  undulating, 
nml  the  higher  grounds  are  marked  by  singular 
artificial  inuundsof  earth,  covering  probably  ihe 
bones  of  slain  warriors-  Near  a  duster  of  live 
of  these  barrows  we  saw  a  circle  distinctly  traced 
by  a  shallow  ditch,  perhsps  bO  or  100  icet  in 
diameter,  the  purpose  of  which  must  have  been 
religious  rather  than  military ;  there  is  grandeur 
in  die  scene, — and  die  mind  is  prepared  for 
Stonchcngc.  The  first  sight  of  it,  at  about  half 
a  mile  distance,  is  certainly  not  striking  ;  a  con- 
fused heap  of  stones,  covering  a  very  small  spot 
on  the  top  of  an  eminence.  On  a  near  approach, 
however,  and  when  you  eoint-  quite  close,  the 
object  appears  quite  wonderful ;  you  find  enor- 
mous blocks  of  stone  standing  up  like  pillars,  in  a 
circle ;  they  are  from  SO  to  30  feet  above-ground, 
8  or  9  feet  wide,  and  about  3  feet  thick,  4  feet 
asunder,  and  surmounted  by  other  smaller  blocks 
placed  horizontally  on  the  top  of  the  pillars  or 
imposts.  Seventeen  of  these  pillars  are  standing, 
seven  or  eight  He  prostrate,  and  there  appears 
to  have  been  a  greater  number  formerly ;  five 
only  of  the  horizontal  blocks  are  up,  the  others 
down.  A  second  circle,  8  or  10  feet  withm 
the  first,  is  composed  of  smaller  pillar*,  0  or  7 
feet  perhaps  above  ground  -9  ten  of  these  are 
standing  \  some  down,  and  many  more  broken 


£56 


S  IUSBURV 


and  destroyed.  At  the  centre  is  a  third  circle,  or 
rather  oval,  composed  of  ten  high  pillar*  with 
their  cross  pieces  rn  pairs  ;  like  rive  gales  SO  feet 
high,  and  a  number  of  smaller  pi  Urs  standing  or 
thrown  down,  over  a  sort  of  altar  of  a  stone  dif- 
ferent from  die  others.  On  the  top  of  the  pil- 
lars, a  sort  of  i* lobular  mortice,  fitting  a  corre- 
sponding hollow  in  Ihe  lioru.mfal  piece  above, 
nerves  to  krep  the  blocks  united-,  this    0|J    •  »< 

ng  is  moat  observable  io  ilie  blocks  which 
have  been  thrown  down.  The  great  pillars  may 
contain  GOO  cu\hc  feet  of  stone,  and  weigh  4.5 

.  u)i.  There  is  no  quarry  on  the  sprJt  Kir- 
tccn  or  sixteen  miles  from  thence,  on  Marl- 
borough Downs,  there  is,  I  am  told,  a  quarry  of 
sandfttonc  Me  Uiese  ;  but  by  what  means  could 
a  barbarous  people  transport  these  enormous 
blocks,  and,  what  is  furl  as  incomprehensible, 
plant  Itiem  upright  il  tin*  ground,  and  plan; 
the  cross  blocks  on  the  top  ?  There  m  another 
monument  of  this  sort  At  a  little  distance,  at 
.Ahnry  near  Devizes  U*»  known,  although  near- 
ly as  extraordinary.  Brittany  ui  France  pos- 
sesses druidical  monuments  on  file  same  plan. 
The  am  in  the  first  stage*  of  civilization  are 
mo«Uv  applied  to  the  erection  of  great  masses, 
of  which  Egypt  affords  the  most  remarkable  ex- 
amples. Refinement*  of  taste  aim  at  another 
•ortof  luxury,  far  less  durable. 


SALISBURY— WILTON. 


257 


ic  soil  U  a  bed  of  clay,  slightly  covered  with 
vegetable  mould,  as  in  Norfolk,  and  equally  ca- 
pable of  cultivation  j  an  acre  would  then  furnish 
as  much  subsistence  »  twenty  do  now.  The 
plough  encroaches  tveiy  day  upon  this  dcsait, 
hut  there  is  still  a  great  space  in  fttCfvc  for  fu- 
ture generations. . 

July  6.— Salisbury  is  a  little  old  city,  very  ugly, 
and  of  which  tlicrc  is  nothing  to  say,  except  that 
the  steeple  of  its  cathedral,  which  is  immensely 
tigh,  and  built  of  stone  to  its  very  summit,  k 
twenty  inches  out  of  the  perpendicular,  which  is 
realJy  enough  to  take  off  the  attention  of  the 
most  devout  congregation.     We  went  to  the 
morning  service,  and  did  not  find  a  single  per- 
son in  the  church  except  those  officiating.     It 
is  not  the  first  time  wc  have  observed  this  deser- 
tion of  the  metropolitan  churches — even  where 
he   steeples  were   quite    perpendicular,     Thit 
rch  seems  r-»  I-  ^      I  zeal  and  fervour  what 
the  sectaries  have  gained ;  and  the  regular  clergy 
arc  accused  of  giving  themselves  too  little  trouble 
in  the  cause. 

Three  miles  beyond  Salisbury  wc  visited  Wit 
ton,  Ijord  Pembroke**.  It  isftQold  house,  limit 
in  pan  b)  luigo  Jones.  A  whole  wing  was  dis- 
njantled  and  thrown  open  ten  years  ago,  to  make 
a  gallery  of  antiques-  The  floors,  exposed  to 
the  injuries  of  the  weather,  are  half  rotten,  and 
vol.  r.  a 


SJ58  WILTON — ASrTIQDE* — TREES. 

tin*  poor  antiques,  thrown  about  hipgledy  piggie- 
<ly,  aans  nose,  mat  finger*,  tans  every  other  promt- 
ncnt  member,  form  a  marble  field  of  battle,  half 
melancholy,  half  ridiculous,  tlw  sight  of  which 
would  distress  m«  beyond  mtaiurc,  were  I  their 
master,  and  could  not  aiTurd  to  finish  the  work 
so  unfortunately  l>egun.  Sancho  might  well 
Itave  said  bere»  M  qtttirop  imbraue  tnat  ef/rurf." 
Had  the  antiques  been  simply  arranged  along 
the  walls  of  the  apartments  *i  they  happened  to 
be,  without  eenring  down  doors  and  windows,  it 
would  have  been  an  interesting  and  respectable 
sight,  which  the  possessor  and  the  public  would 
have  enjoyed  all  this  time  The  site  is  low  and 
flat;  a  velvet  lawn,  herd  M  .-»  piece  of  water, 
unites  to  a  real  piece  of  water,  artificial,  ami  by 
no  meant  bright,  but  of  a  good  eflect  notwith- 
standing, and  prodigious  fine  trees  everywhere 
They  arc  such  as  are  met  with  nowhere  in  the 
world  except  in  an  Knghsh  park.  Nature  always 
plants  in  a  crowd.  Here  a  young  and  vigorous 
subject,  picked  out  of  the  nursery-bet),  is  placed 
alone  in  a  good  soil,  properly  prepared  $  it  is 
merely  protected  for  some  year*  by  a  fence,  in 
other  respects  left  to  itself;  it  soon  forms  a  py- 
ramid, round,  regular,  and  formal,  yet  pretty 
from  the  plumpness  of  youth.  In  the  progress 
of  years  this  roundness  b  angiilarhecd  ;  tin- 
strongest  boughs  kill  the  others — the  lowest,  as 


WILTOK—  ENGLISH  TKBES.  U~>U 

they  extend  further  in  search  of  air  and  light, 
yielding  tO  thtb  own  wrighr,  incline  towards  the 
ground,  which  they  sometime*  touch,  forty  or 
fifty  fetit  troui  their  trunk  {—above,  other  IxMighs 
each  according  to  their  several  position*,  pn 
at  right  angles,  toward*  the  open  space ; — i  i 
cr  and  higher,  the  bough*  incline  more  to  tl.c 
vertical,  till  at  last,  towards  tin-  iMinmit,  some  re- 
mains, of  the  conical  form  is  observed, — exuber- 
ant maww  of  foliage,  spread  in  inclined  layers 
alt  around,  mingling  gracefully  with  each  other. 
Here  and  there,  through  irregular  vacancies  of 
cavernous  obscurity,  you  imtmut  the  Inrgc  na- 
ked limbs  which  support  all  this  magnificence. 
For  agea  after  this  riot  period  of  youth  these  tine 
trees  continue  growing  in  beauty,  in  strength, 
and  in  majesty.  During  anotlter  succession  of 
ages  the  extremities  begin  to  grow  thin  and 
perish, — the  head  becomes  bald, — the  heart  is 
sound  still,  but  the  limb*  give  way  ;  they  arc 
paralysed  and  die,  and  the  trunk  alone  continues 
to  vegetate,  while  generations  of  men  appear  ami 
die  in  succession.  The  hcguimrig  of  tins  last 
SlSie  is  the  best  to  make  a  picture  of,  tttf  second 
state  is  the  best  to  look  at— for  the  picture 
beauties  are  not  those  of  gay  and  flourishing 
nature. 

I  measured  an  evergreen  oak  (not  a  largo  tree 
naturally ;)  it  covered  a  space  of  seventeen  paces 


seo 


LISU  THK 


in  diameter,  and  the  trunk  ww  twelve  feet  ia 
circumference.  Ad  elm  was  sixteen  feet  in  cir- 
cumference and  many  appeared  about  equal. 
Ueyond  Uie  water,  winch,  before  it  spread*  out 
into  a  stagnant  lake,  is  ;i  Ir.i-ly  stream,  you  »ee 
an  insulated  hill  covered  with  wood.  We  went 
to  it  by  a  very  beautiful  bridge-  The  view  from 
that  eminence  ia  tine,  and  it*  slope  would  have 
.iricrdcd  a  healthier  and  pleaaanter  situation  tor 
tlu*  Immub.  The  deer  came  to  the  call,  and  ate 
l0BVe>  Itcld  (••  ti  cm  ;—■.<-.>  uiru-  tm  Ik.iii'.\,  bj 
they  lose  by  it  their  graceful  inquietude  awl  ac- 
tivity, and  become  mere  iat  cattle  fox  the  sham- 
bles* JX*er  ate  a  good  deal  out  ot  Josh  ion,  and 
have  given  way  to  sheep  in  many  paxkh. 

From  Wilton  we  went  to  Stourhead.  The  inn, 
clows  to  the  grounds,  is  m  a  romantic  little  tana, 
buried  in  laurels  mid  tine  trees  with  a  picturesque 
little  Gothic  church,  ail  grey  and  mossy.  Alter 
dinner,  we  were  conducted  to  the  liouse  of  Sir 
lUchard  lloaa*.  You  go  up  a  number  of  slept, 
too  many  by  half,  to  the  door,  and  enter  a  tine 
hall,  leading  to  a  large  room  in  front,  probably 
sixty  by  forty  feci,  and  on  uarh  *MC  a  wing  caQm 
nected  with  the  lull  by  a  short  gallery.  These 
apartments  are  full  of  pictonBj  none  of  which  are 
very  remarkable.  One  of  the  ladies  and  myself 
having  sat  down  a  moment  to  look  at  a  picture 
more  conveniently,  a  young  girl  wlio  showed  the 


STOURHE AD DIGNITY  OP  SIR  R.  nOAOE-     261 

boose,  told  us  as  civilly  as  ahe  could,  thnt  it  was 
the  rute  of  the  house  not  to  allow  visitors  to  ut  down. 
Hiia  h  a  rule  of  which  that  gentleman  (a  rich 
iker)  has  die  merit  ol"  the  invention.  We  have 
nut  met  with  any  thing  of  the  sort  anywhere  clae ; 
ami  tlicrc  really  seam  to  Iks  leas  reason  for  it 
out  of  London,  and  in  a  place  rather  out  of  di- 
rect roads. 

The  upper  part  of  the  grounds  is  very  high, 
scooped  out  in  the  middle  by  a  gentle  descent, 
which  becomes  a  deep  dell  or  valley,  where?  se- 
veral springs  unite  to  form  the  head  of  the  Stotir, 
—a  rapid  little  river.     The  grandfather  of  the 
present  poncaaor  dammed  up  thai  valley,  which 
became  a  little  irregular-shaped  lake,  covering 
perhaps  thirty  acres  ;  the  outlet,  a  fall  of  about 
twenty  t'cot  ;  the  whole  surrounded  with  woody 
banks  and  sloping  lawns.     Three  temples  peep 
out  of  the  woods,  marking  the  best  points  of 
view.  An  easy  path  lends  to  these  stations,  round 
the  lake,  passing  by  several  fine  aprimra,  issuing 
clear  and  cool  from  llic  Ixwom  of  the  mountain, 
— one  of  them  in  a  grotto.     There  is  certainly 
great  beauty  in  all  this  j  but  the  water  of  the  lake 
is  dull  and  muddy,  full  of  reeds  and  aquatic 
plants,  which  mark  its  stagnation.     The  lawns 
are  half  covered  and  betMfed  bj  shrubs,  planted 
everywhere,  particularly  endless  tufls  and  thick- 
ets of  laurels ;  beautiful  in  themselves,  but  in 


■:-yj      ARTIFICIAL  LAKES — ALFRED'S  TOWEfi. 


too  great  profusion.  The  woods  also  are  too 
close,  resembling  rather  an  American  thicket. 
None  <>t  those  magnificent  single  tree*,  so  peou- 
liai  lu  1\  udscapc,  are  to  be  seen  here  \ 

tit  tact,  I  think  there  is  as  much  done  to  spoil  an 
(o  adorn  tin*  tine  spot.  I  have  not  yet  seen  an 
artificial  piece  of  water  that  bore  any  resemblance 
to  the  water  of  a  natural  lake,  always  so  clear  ; 
and  it  seems  strange.  Perhaps  if  the  surface  of 
a  valley  iutended  to  be  flooded,  which  is  gener- 
ally a  rich  soil,  was  first  peeled  off  a  few  incites, 
OT  Bpade  deep,  according  to  th«  depth  of  the 
mould,  aquatic  plants  would  not  be  so  apt  tr> 
grow  in  (he  poor  under-*oil ;  worms  and  insects 
also  would  not  meet  with  so  much  food  as  among 
the  decayed  sod  and  vegetable  numld.  The  Ser- 
pdUiilMS  River  in  Hyde  Park  is  I  think,  the  clear- 
est artificial  water  I  have  yet  seen. 

Tlic  highest  port  of  three  grounds  is  marked 
by  tradition  as  the  spot  where  the  great  Alfred 
raised  his  standard  against  the  Danes,  in  867  » 
and  tlic  Hoares  haw  fanofefed  llH?re  a  stupcmlow 
triangular  tower,  ISO  feet  high,  with  a  staircase 
to  the  top,  where  you  may  go  and  get  as  giddy 
as  you  please,  and  gaze  at  an  immense  prospect 
:i  geographical  map.  There  is  a  charm  cef. 
tainly,  and  a  deep  feeling  of  interest  in  the  idea 
of  treading  the  soil  where  such  a  man  stood. 

Jnty  7. — After  going  the  Mime  round  again  this 


CENTLLME.N  6  HOUStifi BB15T0U 


86* 


morning,  we  left  Stoarbead  for  Bristol,  £7  miles 
of  most  beautiful  country  ;  a  continual  garth.*! i, 
full  of  gentlemen's  houses  and  grounds,  and  of 
neat  cottager  single,  and  in  villages ;  too  much 
chequered  with  incloaures  for  pictureitfjucness ; 
hut  exhibiting  every  appearance  of  prosperity. 
The  road  very  hilly,  but  in  perfect  repair*  and 
the  hordes  excellent,  as  we  have  found  them  every 
where,  except  in  Cornwall  awl  Devonshire.  The 
multitude  of  gentlemen's  houses,  scattered  over 
tin-  country,  is  a  feature  quite  peculiar  to  Kng- 
libJi  landscape,  The  thing  ifc  unknown  in  France, 
where  the  country,  at  a  distance  from  large  towns, 
presents  only  iarm-nouscsand  peasants'  cottages, 
and  now  and  then  a  castle,  old  and  neglected  ; 
but  none  of  these  houses  which  are  the  habitual 
residence  o\'  comfort  and  elegance.  In  France, 
the  landed  proprietors  have  their  houses  in  the 
nearest  little  town. 

July  9. — Bristol.  I  rode  tin*  morning  to  a 
gentleman's,  a  few  miles  from  town,  to  whom  I 
bad  a  letter,  ami  1  found  a  place,  like  all  the 
tliers,  neat,  green,  and  ahady.  On  one  side,  at 
little  distance  from  the  houac,  was  a  sort  of 
rrace  of  rocks,  sixty  feet  high,  at  the  bottom  of 
l;ii  It  a  rivulet  was  seen,  winding  over  a  brood 
expanse  of  black  viscous  mud ;  this  was  the 
Avon,  which,  at  high  water,  611b  the  abyss  level 


BRISTOL — 00BB5TT. 


with  the  top  of  the  terrace !  On  the  other  ante  of 
the  house  was  a  green  slope,  with  a  flock  of  Me- 
rino sheep  grazing.  In  the  distance  the  Severn, 
which  is  there  an  estuary. 

Land  in  this  part  of  the  country  rents  at  SOh. 
to  -sOb.  per  annum,  an<l  sells  at  tlurty  years  pur- 
chase. 

As  ire  get  farther  from  I-ondon,  I  think  I  per- 
ceive more  moderation  in  political  opin.« 
fewer  people  speak  of  revolution,  either  to  v-  i^Ii 
or  fear  it,  or  hclieve  the  people  ripe  for  it.  The 
party  of  which  Cobbctt  is  the  mouth-piece, 
not  appear  numerous  out  of  tlsc  capital.  The 
masterly  caricatures  of  this  Hogarth  of  the  pen, 
wi  well  known  in  America,  are  quite  character- 
istic of  the  manners  an  J  government  oc  Ym?  I 
Foreigners,  who  read  some  of  the  parry  publica- 
tions which  swarm  from  the  English  pre**,  and 
particularly  Cobbett,  conceive,  certainly, 
erroneous  opinions  of  the  real  state  of  things.  I 
believed,  in  America,  with  many  others,  and  I 
koow  that  several  persons  at  the  head  of  the 
American  government  believe  now,  that  Eng- 
land is  on  the  eve  of  a  revolution,  which,  it  i» 
supposed,  will  free  them  from  her  maritime  pre- 
tensions i  and  if  it  is  possible  to  be  thus  deceived 
in  a  country  so  similar  to  England,  what  must  it 
be  in  France,  where  no  adequate  idea  can  be 


C  ft  1*10  L — COBBfiTT. 


165 


rty  exaggeration  ?  Par  from  taking 
these  party  writers  literally,  I  find  the  greatest 
part  of  the  English  public  look  upon  them  only 
as  professed  wrestler*,  whose  display  of  strength 
ami  abilities  interests  and  amine*  th«ns  1  iut  whose 
object,  besides  the  gratification  of  some  malice 
and  vanity,  is  merely  money.  They  arc  not  be- 
lieved sincere,  ami  without  that  belief  there  is  no 
real  persuasion.  To  be  Hilly  sensible  of  this,  it 
is  sufficient  to  observe,  witli  how  much  ruore  at- 
tention the  dimple  charge  of  the  j udge  is  listened 
to  at  the  ckxtt  of  a  trial,  Hum  all  the  eloquent 
pleadings  thai  preceded  it  Mixed  with  ahnn- 
il.tiiL-e  of  undeniable  facts,  and  under  die  garb  of 
downright  truth  ami  honest  surliness  Mr  Cob- 
bctt  deals  out  principles  the  most  fallacious  with 
great  art,  aitd  wonderful  force  oJ  popular  elo- 
quence ;  iwit  hi*  frequent  and  outra^-eous  con- 
tradictious of  his  own  principles  have,  in  a  great 
degree,  neutralized  them.  He  is  Co  receive  judg- 
ment this  day,  having  been  Used  l\*r  a  libel,  with 
intention  to  excite  the  troops  to  mutiny. 

There  is  not  another  government  in  Europe 
which  could  long  withstand  the  attacks  to  which 
this  one  ia  coutinually  exposed.  The  things  pub- 
lished here  would  set  on  tire  any  other  heads  in 
the  world  ;  but  either  from  innrnMbility,  reason, 
or  habit,  they  make  but  little  impression,  lots 
sort  of  impassibility  extends  in  some  degree  to 


£uu 


U-AIS70X.— COCBBrr— CLIMATE, 


personal  attack*.    Private  anecdote*  and  seer* 
stories  arc  brought  to  light  daily,  or  such  a  na- 

as  ought  to  make  the  iudmilualx  concern 
ashamed  to  show  themselves,  mid  atrtolutety  to 
drive  Ujcuj  from  society  fox  the  rest  of  their  live  . 
Nothing  of  the  kind  : — the  neck  is  no  sooner 
out  of  the  collar,  and  the  shoulders  scarcely  heal- 
ed after  the  castration  indicted  by  the  hands  of 
newspaper-writers,  or  other  practitioner*  in  the 
art  of  defamation,  than  the  sufferer  makes  his 
appearance  again  in  the  world  ns  if  nothing  had 
happened.  It  seems  strange  that  a  |>eople  so 
proud,  and  certainly  full  as  moral  as  its  neigh- 
bours, should  show  thin  strange  callousness. 

From  our  hotel  at  Bristol  we  are  and  hear  con- 
linually  the  troops  quartered  here  exercising  on 
ihe  square  before  the  cathedral-  There  are  (We 
regiments,  principally  employed  in  guarding  a 
depot  of  prisoners  of  war.  The  soldiers,  com- 
pared at  least  to  the  guards  in  Loudon,  are  by 
no  weans  stout-looking.  The  officers  are  in  ge- 
neral larger  made  than  the  men;  and  this  is  a 
confirmation  of  what  I  tbixak  J  have  obserred  be- 
fore, that  the  class  of  gentlemen  in  England  is  a 
finer  race  of  men  than  the  same  clasa  in  France  ; 
but  there  is  not  the  same  differ  euce  bet 
the  common  people  of  the  two  countries 
lively. 

We  have  had  several  days  in  June  and  July, 


BRISTOL— CBEPSTOW — PIERCEPIELD.        367 

r&ltad  litre  very  warm,  which  may  be  considered 
as  a  fair  sample  of  English  summer  heat,  and 
that  was  quite  moderate,  compared  to  the  heat 
in  America.  'I*hc  climate,  both  winter  and  sum- 
mer, ii  never  extreme  \  arid  although  rarely  re- 
splendent, is  best  for  use,  more  favourable  fiw 
exercise,  either  for  labour  or  pleasure-  The 
people,  accordingly,  are  visibly  more  active  here 
than  in  America. 

Jrr/y  10. — We  left  Bristol  thismoming  -7  twelve 
milea  to  the  ferry  over  the  Severn,  of  moat  beau- 
tiful country,  in  the.  highest  state  of  cultivation, 
aixl  everywhere  gentlemen'*  house*  and  orna- 
mented grounds.  The  ferry  is  tM  M  three 
mrlcs  across,  very  expensive,  and  ill  contrived  ; 
—our  carriage  suffered  a  little  in  getting  over. 
Theme  to  Chepstow.  Picrccficld,  a  spot  noted 
'by  all  traveller*,  ix  near  it ; — we  went  there,  and 
are  just  returned.  A  walk  is  carried  for  three 
miles  along  the  very  brink  of  an  abrupt  terrace 
ofmrkst  150  or  9oo  feet  perpendicular,  tint  in  a 
straight  line,  but  cither  sweeping  round,  or  pro- 
jecting and  retiring  in  deep  angle*.  The  preci- 
pice is  generally  masked  by  overhanging  bushes 
and  trees  and  only  now  and  then,  and  in  the 
it  favourable  points,  the  prospect  to  thrown 
to  the  view,  with  only  a  gardtfbus  for  your 
security,  and  a  scat  for  your  repose.  There  you 
trees  and  coppice  far  below  your  feet ;   then 


Ǥ6 


ru-ac  wield. 


the  Wye,  twisting  about  like  a  atiakc,  or  a  nar- 
row ribbon  of  liquid  mudi  deeply  caaed  bi  banks 
of  solid  mud  ;  Tor  the  tide  was  low,  and  there  is 
about  aO  feet  perpendicular  between  high  and 
low  !  On  the  other  side  of  this  deep  slimy  bed  is 
I  knoll  of  head-uwd,  untbc  unuitely  of  very  dob 
soil,  a*  it  cam*'.  I  tfl  l>e  nicely  divided  in  square 
patches*  carefully  ploughed  and  dug  u|«,  and 
every  thing  going  on  in  the  way  of  husbandry, 
picturesque  or  not,  all  under  your  rye.    Beyond 
that,  again,  in  another  abrupt  terrace  of  rock>, 
higher  than  the  one  you  stand  upon,  calcareous 
and  breaking  in  better  lor  ma  than  the  primitive 
class  of  rock*.  Now  and  then  you  catch  a  glimpse 
oi  (he  Severn  at  a  distance.  Such  a  pmpect  h*a 
i  i  course  many  great  beauties,  and  great  fault*, 
and  did  not  appear  to  roe,  ou  die  whole,  equal  to 
its  reputation.  At  one  place,  the  body  of  a  large 
intercepting  rock  has  been  pierced  tluough  far 
the  walk,  the  length  of  perhaps  40  yards*  With* 
in  this  rampart  of  rocks  and  precipices  is  a  lawn 
of  more  than  »  hundred  acres,  in  soft  swells  and 
undulating   lint'.-;,    with   a  distant  ervxt   of  dark 
wood,  serving  as  a  back-ground  to  the  WHUfon. 
which  seems,  at  a  distance,  something  like  the 
house  at  Stourhead.    'I'he  tine  green  cajpetf'  ex- 
tending over  100  acres,  t*  :*l  mi  :i  I  >y  £00  sheep  > 
and  dumps  of  glorious  oaks  and  ilino  arc  mat- 
tered about  in  Ctt<teM  profusion.     TJus  is  all 


yiEUCKHEI.D ROSS. 


beautiful.  The  protpect  from  the  ho-jse,  wliirfi 
stands  high,  must  be  excellent ;  but  it  is  not 
shewn.  This  house,  Mil  3000  acres  of  land,  not 
*ti  good,  coat  the  present  owner  L.90,ooo  ster- 
ling. The  rent  of  cither  good  arable  land,  or 
ut  wood  laud,  that  is  coppice  cut  every  fourteen 
years,  is  from  30s.  to  40s.  an  acre,  and  it  sell*  at 
thirty  years'  purchase ;  labourers  is.  od.  a-day 
aad  small-bccr,— -twenty  years  ago,  is.  *d.  In 
this  interval  of  time  the  price  of  land  has  doubled. 
This  progression,  being  universal,  docs  not  injure 
any  one  but  stockholders  or  mortgagees.  But- 
cher's meat  is  9d.  a- pound ;  a  good  fowl  is  **. 
6d.-,  fuel  is  cheap.  'Inc  land  here  is  exposed  to 
drought,  from  the  roek*  being  near  the  virf  ice  ; 
therefore  their  crop  of  wheat  and  grass  will  be 
particularly  scanty  this  year. 

Juttf  Hi — Ko*a«  We  left  our  carriage  this 
morning  at  Chepstow,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Wye,  and  came  to  this  place  in  a  hired  chaise, 
proposing  to  return  by  the  river;  31  miles  of 
very  fine  but  very  hilly  country.  From  a  height 
we  bad  an  extensive  view  of  a  roost  rich  tract, 
the  Vale  of  Monmouth,  twenty  mik*  every  way, 
and  cultivated  like  a  garden.  Farms  in  it  let  for 
L  5  and  L.  6  an  acre ;  forty  years  ago  the  rent 
of  the  same  land  did  not  exceed  3<K  or  40s.  an 
acre :  it  belongs  mostly  to  the  Duke  ol  BeWaftrC 


«o 


IUOL&KD  CASTLE— CHEPSTOW. 


Soon  after,  we  at,  from  another  height,  the  Vale 
of  Usk,  nearly  as  rich,  but  mostly  meadow,  be- 
ing overflowed  every  spring.     At  Kaglaml  v. 
visited  the  ruin*  of  tiie  castle  of  that  iiauu-.  i.lie 
lost  subdued  by  the  cannon  of  Cromwell.     The 
floors  and  roofs  axe  of  course  gone,  but  enough 
of  the  walls  remains  to  trace  a  large  hall,  perhof* 
50  by  30  feet,  and  25  feet  high,  with  spacious 
how-windows    (the  frames  of  stone  arc  yet  en- 
tire,) looking  over  a  spacious  court,  and  an  emu 
nKHis  fire-place,  with  double  flue*  forking  oil", 
with  :i  window  between,  jmt  above  ihc  tire, — tin' 
music-gallery,  and  drawing-room  j  then,  mula 
the  keep,  the  subterraneous  dungeons  where 
prisoners  were  let  down  by  a  sort  of  well,  and 
the  very  "  loop-hole  grates  where  captives  weep" 
Mill  perfectly  visible-     Wc  felt  no  kind  of  regret 
at  the  decay  of  this  goodly  castle,— it  is  better 
as  it  is  than  as  it  was ;  and  the  comparison  be- 
tween the  times  of  its  glory  and  the  present  make 
the  existing  grievances  appear  very  light.   8oi 
of  die  towers  are  entire,  and  ivy  is  mantling  <> . 
the  whole,  according  to  the  best  rules  of  pic- 
tutcsqucnes*.     I  took  a  view,  notwithstanding  a 
heavy  shower,  which  now  visits  u*  once  a-<iay»  to 
the  great  comfort  of  farmers. 

July  IS-— Cliepstow.   We  btvre  come  here  in 
two  days  irom  Kofs,  by  the  Wye.    There  is  no 


PLEASC  SUE-BOATS — SCRWERT  OF  THE  WYE.       T}  1 

ncttl  for  thought  or  foresight  in  travelling  in  Eng- 
Jand, — no  care  necessary,  but  that  of  k  .  prng 
your  purse  well  furnished  ;  every  thing  is  done 
and  arranged  for  you  in  the  most  convenient 
manner  beforehand.  Wc  had  not  been  many 
minutes  in  the  inn  at  Ross  before  the  master, 
perceiving,  no  doubt,  that  we  were  people  of 
taste  in  quest  of  picturesque  beauties,  called  for 
our  orders  respecting  a  boat  to  go  down  the  ri- 
vi  r  These  hosts  attend  there  during  the  tow* 
season.  The  price  from  hence  to  Chepstow, 
45  miles  in  two  days  is  L.4,  10*.,  and  5«.  pour 
boire.  The  landlord  knew  exactly  what  was  ne- 
cessary tor  the  victualling  of  the  vessel,  and  wc 
I  nl!  reaily  in  a  basket  in  the  boat ;  tlustioat 
was  covered  with  an  tfwntOg,  the  scat*  with  a  car- 
pet, a  small  table  in  the  middle,  and  two  oars. 

From  Ross  to  Monmouth  the  Wye  is  a  good 
little  river,  rather  inuguificant  and  tome— -culti- 
rated  fields  to  the  right  and  left,  and  nothing 
rise.  L«wer  down,  the  hanks  rise  l»y  degrees. 
are  clothed  with  woods,  and  diversified  with 
rocks  in  fine  detached  masses;  the  woods,  how- 
,-ue  only  coppice,  cat  every  fourteen  years, 
— no  fine  tree*;  and  at  the  water  line,  instead 
of  sand  or  rock,  muddy  sedge  and  reeds,  although 
the  enrrent  is  rapid.  The  finest  parts  of  the  Wyt 
resemble  the  banks  of  our  Hudson  river.  One  of 
these  rivers  is  more  than  a  mile  wide,  and  the 


272 


WVE— C00DBJCU   CAJT1  I  ■ 


other  pcrharu  twenty  yards,— extreme*  on  both 
side* ;   there  the  majesty  of  the  bunks  sin!, 

tin?  vaatueta  of  thr  -lame  they  over- 

power it.     This  river  raecU  with  so  many  pro- 
roonton  bends  in  and  out  .to  much,  that 

a  walk  of  half  a  mile,  at  the  point  w  lu- 
nch •!.%  brought  in  to  :i  place  which 
the  boat  had  a  circa  i  tiles  to  make  be- 
1  reach;  another  time,  we  made  •» 
a  mile  over  a  high  promon- 
tory, four  miles  round  by  the  river,  called  New 
cnoad*!  XacbL  — Goodricli  Castle  isa 
very  fine  ruiru  from  the  summit  of  lhL\  high 
ridge,  Uic  cods  beyond  the  deep  trench 
at  the  bottom  of  which  the  river  flows,  far  and 
wide  over  a  waving  surface  of  cchi  uiurlc- 
,  and  dotted  over  with  white- 
waahed  cottage*  and  houses,  motrt  of  them  on 
cd  by  the  Duke  of  Deauforc  We  were  here  be- 
tel by  a  great  number  of  beggars,  attracted,  and 
in  fact  crtatedi  by  the  almn  of  travellers.  The 
h<i|H's  of  gt  it  tJi.tt  way  lui*  pre- 
vented Kione*t  exertions,  and  diey  have  bo 
wretchedly  poor  by  pretending  to  be  so.  Tin's  is 
more  or  lew  the  case  wherever  there  i*  any  »ight 
tn  attract  trat  Wales  and  the  Wye  are  vi- 
sifed  by  all  tourists ;  we  are  precisely  in  the 

and  meet  them  at  all  the.  inns, — stalking 

round  every  ruin  of  castle  or  abbey, — and  cl 
10 


TIKTE&M  ABBEY. 


273 


lii^lt  rock  <br  a  pn»peei ;  each  vrith 
hh  Gilpin  or  his  Cambrian  Guide  in  hi*  hand, 
and  each,  no  doubt,  writing  a  journal.  This  is 
rather  ridiculous  and  discouraging. 

Tl»c  exterior  of  Tintern  Abbey  disappointed 

;   but  the  etw/yWYr:/  ut  tlu-  in 
IbL    Suppose  Westminster  Abbey,  vriih  the  roof 
-the pavement* n  ted  into:\<!iortgrecn 

turf,  ovit  which  dusters  of  pQlafs,  like  Gothic 
skeleton*,  rear  their  slender  forms ;  dark  ivy  in 
matted  locks  hanging  from  their  high  bmhy 
heads.  The  walls,  and  part  of  the  arches  over 
tlw  aisles,  iiTir  still  ciitirr  ;  even  the  delic  ite  tra- 
cery-work  of  the  imIows  ;  and,  as  we  were 

told,  the  painted  glass  adhered  to  them  till  within 
a  few  years.  1  took  <omc  views  of  these  ruins. 
Upon  the  whole  the  beauties  of  the  Wye  itself 
fall  rather  9bort  of  the  descriptions  a  i  and 

other  travellers. 

Wishing  to  see  the  last  number  of  Cobbctt,  wc 
sent  the  servant  of  the  inn  to  procure  it ;  lie  is 
just  Tcrurncd,  and  informs  us,  that  nobody  in 
Chepstow  knows  any  thing  of  Oobbertt#s  Political 
Register,  I  do  not  know  whether  to  wish  the 
good  people  of  Chepstow  joy  of  it,  or  to  pity 
them;  as  the  Political  Register,  together  with 
some  treason,  cont;i  Jnly  a  good  deal  of 

information  and  entertainment. 

VOL,  I.  S 


% 


27* 


—  I"  I>"1  MflFS. 


J*fy  14.— We  ana  at  Ccm-bridge,  Glami 

shire.    II  JO  miles  tii.«lay,  through 

Ncwf  iff: — the*  country  just 

o  afford  cxtensi  t  e  %  iews  over  an 

of  cultivation,  lost  in  the  blue 

\\i\ng  wild,  or-  properly  speaking, 

imt  all  itilul,  and  every 

appear*  i  prosperity.     Wales  seems  more 

J,  at  lea  tfrcwod  over  with  liabi- 

tation*  of  all  M>rts,  scattered  or  in  villages,  titan 

;  have  seen,  and  which 
arc  rendered  more  conspicuous  by  wlute-waab* 
iug  «l  tin*  must  respondent  whiteness,      I 

,'C  too  Jia*  kle*,  and 

dooi  .  and  this  at- 
tention bestowed  01  pleasurable 
com!  \%  at  case, 
;  oil  mil  umJ 

!..   It  is  im|M  >  look  round  wi  i 

the  con*  '-hat   thai   pi  n   the 

whole,  >  bo  hflppi  i    ; 

world.    The  sauna  class  in  America  ha^ 
taiul,  .  ami  niiplit  have  more 

i  -i  industry  and  sobriety 
more  than  c  fcultsfls  they 

The  women  w 
i  nearer  I 
i  the  inhabitanti  b  quite  unmtcl- 


<4— Tf.NDY. 

Hgiblc  to  us  ;  at  tin*  inn$,  however,  all  is  trans- 
acted in  English.  Having  goue  to  »ee  *ocnc  ruins 
while  the  liorecs  were  changing  at  Cardiff,  we 
found  the  post-hoy  had  driven  away  ;  and  on 
inquiring  the  reason  on  h  id  he  was 

afraid  the  horses  would  catch  cold  standing  ; — 
thb  is  delightful  tor  the  middle  of  July,  wl.cn  the 
people  of  New  York  arc  dying  with  heat 

Juty  16. — Tenby.     N  in  two 

clays,  through  a  hilly  but  rich  country,  affording 
continually  vast  views  of  cultivation,  a  surface 
chequered  with  fields  and  hedges,  and  studded 
over  with  white  data,  the  iges, 

roois,  and  chimneys,  ami  even  the  very  stones 
on  the  road  near  the  houses  being  fresh  white- 
washed. There  i*  no  particular  beauty  in  al  I 
on  neai  inspection,  but  distance  ennobles  and 
harmonises  all ;  and  many  of  the  views  wi 
woods  without  rocks,  or  high  mountains  and 
without  water,  were  still  highly  beautiful, 

lost  sublime.     Very  few  commons  or  waste 
iimU  were  to  be  seen  ;  those  few  had  sheep 
ind  a  \-ast  number  of  young  iuwrHgr.i/ii-.;;  about ; 
with  their  long  ears  and  small  bodies  and 

b  \  ivacity,  gave  the  idea  of  rabbits  in  a  wax- 
■en,— 


Awl  tbtjr  *ouM  u..i  Ihfir  h«r'  •rnic  |iUy, 

A«d  fri*  about,  us  lamb*  tnd  fckuna  goy.— 'Colkmogx. 


7$      VAL»5-^MVllEAN,>,RON"'WOIIKS 

v-       Swsrvea  w*  the  copper  ami  iron 

work*     ?**?  ivtr€  ■'"**  °Pcninff  *  smelting  fur- 

aCt-  the  ivwd  copper,  in  a  little  stream  of  liquid 

rirr,  6&*t*l  ato&g  a  channel  towards  a  cittern  full 

.  wc  ww  it  approach  with  terror,  ex- 

ixctfae  »n  explosion  ;  ins: •  -d  <:('  which  tlie  two 

jtquwU  tnc:   very  amicably,  the  water  only  «m- 

nrcripc,  a  little.  The  workmen  tookcdtVetyatcUy: 

«e  found,  on  inquiry,  their  *alary  was  but  little 

}  ipber  than  that  of  couiuion  labourers.     It  is  re* 

.  that,  n)ucli  M  uK-n  arc  attached  to  life, 

is  no  consideration  lest  attended  m  m  tin: 

,,.i>ioe  of  a  profes-iion  than  salubrity. 

in  f>z£hi  of  the  sea  several  times  to- 
day* It  blew  fresh  b  shore,  but  there  wm  not 
much  surf,  from  being,  I  suppose,  a  confined  sea* 
Single  trees,  oaks  particularly,  arc  in  general 
very  much  beat,  almost  horizon  tally,  from  the 
tea)  that  btosay.  the  Mem  is  while  the  bou^h* 
and  leaves  turn  towards  it.  Large  woods,  cover- 
ing -top  ascents  facing  the  sea,  we  observed 
growing  straight  and  thriving ;  the  tree?  protect 
each  other,  or  the  height  behind  obliges  th: 
air  to  pa&s  over  their  head:-.  We  crossed  several 
iron  rail-way*,  leading  from  founderk's  ami  coal- 
mini  country  to  the  sea.  Four  low  cast- 
ironwbeelsi  0  iron  groove  lying  alum 
Tuad-  It  is  now,  however,  the  general  custom 
to  place  the  groove  on  the  circumference  of  the 


WALES — RAILWAYS  AND  WAGGONS)  *u      277 

wheel,  running  upon  the  rail,  a  mere  ledge  of 
iron,  upon  which  no  stone  or  other  impediment 
on  lodge  Five  small  waggons,  and  sometimes 
six,  Juatenrxl  together,  each  earning  two  tons  of 
coal,  are  drawn  by  three  In  hat  is   Join 

tons  to  each  horse,  besides  the  weight  of  die 
waggon,— about.  Tour  or  live  times  as  :u:.-l. 
they  could  draw  on  a  common  road ;  on  an  ascent 
the  waggons  arc  separated. 

The  rocks  of  Tenby  are  worn  by  the  sea  into 
the  most  fantastic  shapes,  and  pierced  through 
and  through,  in  sever. il  places,  like  gate  ways;  at 
low  water  carnages  drive  close  tu  the  aea  upon  ■ 
firm  beach.  The  town  U  built  along  the  aim 
Of  tbt  cliff,  and  in  the  finest  situation  imaginable, 
but  the  houses  turn  their  backs  and  blind  sides 
to  this  glorious  prospect,  having  windows  only  to 
look  at  each  other,  across  a  narrow  dirty  street. 
The  use  these  Hottentots  make  of  the  beetling 
brow  of  the  cliff;  the  very  place  tor  poctiol  tap* 
tures  and  philosophical  cootomplation,  a  too  vile 
to  be  named.  Tin:  batlu-i*  lodge  in  a  lower  situ- 
ation, less  beautiful,  but  cleaner. 

Jufy  19. — Cardigan.  Wc  left  Tenby  jrestcr- 
day,  with  horses  so  tired,  that  all  we  could  ob- 
tain from  them  was  to  draw  the  carriage  empty, 
and  so  slowly,  that  we  arrived  at  Pembroke  be- 
fore them, — a  walk  often  miles.  This  morning 
we  have  crossed  Milfonl  Haven,  a  narrow  ami 


tra 


CARJXOAN ABERYOTWITH. 


deep  buy  nr  arm  of  the  sea,  forming  an  excellent 
liarhotir,  sheltered  on  all  sides,  but  not  used  at 
all.  Such  a  one  on  the  coast  of  France,  where 
Ihcy  are  so  scarce,  would  not  be  thus  neglected. 
The  surrounding  country  is  solitary,  peaceful, 
and  agreeable.  Our  first  stage  was  Haverford 
Weat  1 1  miles ;  then  SO  miles  on  one  stretch  of 
hilry  country,  lor  which  wc  were  obliged  to  take 
four  horses. 

Juiif  9a— Aberystw  ith.     Another  stage  of  40 
miles  with  four  horse*,  in  ten  hours.     Thi 
so  little  travelling  in  thw   remote  part  of  the 
island,  that  the  post-horses  are  commonly 
ployed  in  husbandry.  The  country  is  rou#h  ani 
hilly,  but  preients  the  same  appearance  of  pros- 
•v  and  good  cultivation,  though  lew  fertile  ; 
granite  and  slate  having  succeeded  to  limcstum-. 
The  country  people  give  us  a  friendly  nod  as  we 
drive  along.     The  women  certainly  are  i  in  com- 
ity gooddooktng-     Welsh  for  two  shillings  is 
d$ta  jo/j,  as  we  hear  it  pronounced,  which  so* 
very  like  French.     The  sides  of  the  road  arc 
mad6  very  gay,  by  the  tine  stalks  nf  the  purple 
faxgtore growing  un:n:!;.;  yi  \y  luxuriant  refn,  and 
appc-  ii  tlie  same  plant.     A  bcutttMil  low 

purplc  heath,  and  tin  me,  also  with  purple  flowci 
cover  the  tops  of  the  hills.  Wc  have  been  near- 
ly  all  day  in  view  of  the  sea,  on  our  left  hand, 
and  fancied  wc  could  see  Ireland  :  the  clouds 


POLGELtY— C*D£fi  IDRIS. 


were  exactly  reflected  by  the  glassy  surface  of 
the  water,  nmoualy  streaked  with  the  brightest 
frcni  ami  «lark  purple 

Ju/v  **• — Dolgelly,  (pronounced  Dolgrthly) 
[erioccthshirc.    The  ride  from  Abu  ,  35 

iilcs,  U  certainly  very  beautiful,  ibe  latter  past 
ipccsaUy,  from  several  rich  valleys  surrounded 
moderate  bill*,  which  our  "Cambrian  Um 
■*  tremendous  wouniaiut,  shook  ritlo  every 
possible  /arm  ?/"  Aurror."  Cadcr  Idris  deserves 
alone  the  name  of  mountaiu,  and  formed  a  con- 
spicuous object  for  a  great  pan  of  ycsi 
We  stopped  at  its  Iwwc  to  ace  a  very  pretty  wa- 
terfall, and  continued  our  route  to  this  place 
through  u narrow  path  between  two  steep  acoti- 
vities  of  crumbling  rocks  $— it  was  the  beauty  of 
desolation.  This  morning,  having  provided  four 
|M>nic*  and  a  gnidt\  fiw  these  sort  of  convenien. 
ma  Dtad>  ftirganfrtii  here,  wherever 
wanted,  we  went  buck  a  few  miles  in  order  to 
ascend  Cadcr  Idris,  which  we  effected  in  three 
hotira  hard  tUgi  partly  on  horseback,  ami  partly 
uii  loot,  by  a  zigzag  path,  with  all  the  UStlal  d;uw 
gci^.  and  hair-breadth  escapes,  and  found  our- 
selves at  last  seated  on  a  crumbling  pinnacle  of 
slate  rock,  with  large  detached  pieces  of  quartz 
■iid  there.  The  Bchistus  a|>p«  a  ed  porpby* 
rim,  and,  as  1  should  suppose,  whatth"  OarOdBsl 
ill  grave  zcftckc*   The  youngest  of  lli<-  eu.npany 


080 


CAUEIl  IURIS. 


added  the  initials  of  our  names  to  thine  of  mi 
other  wi*e  tourist?  who  have  preceded  u*,— * 
lofty  record  or'  travelling  fame.  1  was  not  so 
well  employed,  itn  I  attempted  u  snrt  od 
drawing  or  |>anuraiua  uf  the  main  object  we  saw, 
without  success.  It  was  a  sort  of  troubled  sea  of 
mountains,  with  many  a  beautiful  valley  nmonj 
them,  eadi  with  its  meandering  stream,  ami  al 

■  geographical  map.    '11k-  course  of  the  Maw 
from  I  )»■!  i  the  sea,  which  wo  knew  to  be 

ten  miles,  wai  seen  at  one  glance,  aa  if  the  i 
extent  had  been  dnwn  on  .1  bit  ot  paper,  ever) 
•  ilyvi   distinct,  and  we  should  not  have  nippo 
scd  the  length  exceeded  one  mile.     The  ocean 

apiad  about  one  half  of  the  horizon.  As  wc 
descended,  (which  took  two  hours)  the  prospect 
became  less  grand,  but  more  beautiful  ;  and  the 
foreground,  « *f  nigged  fragment*,  v. 

over  bright  green  and  bright  purple,  with  usra 
and  with  heath.  The  general  shapcof  thi  noun 
tain  is  something  like  a  saddle,  its  perpendicular 
heights  .   Our goidb) had Tcndr.ri  tun. 

self  very  acceptable  to  the  ladicaduring  thi 
pedition,  by  his  readiness  in  tendering  a  steady 
arm  and  hand  in  difhcult  places, — by  his  good 
humour,  and  civil  deportment-  Being  a  very  com- 
municative person,  they  found  out  ut  last  that 
lie  was  the  juilor  of  Dolgcll;. ,  u  hu  h  being  a  small 
and  pour  place,  where  people  must  turn  1 


TAX-Y-B'* 


hand  to  any  thing,  be  was  also  the  ahcr. 

r,  for  the  execution  of  the  last  resort  at  cri- 
liaal  justice !  Tiic  whip  and  the  baiter  had, 
icreforc,  been  held  occasionally  by  the  same 
obliging  hand,  which  they  had  pressed  the  mo- 
ment before  !  he  did  not  indeed  explain  himself 
clearly  on  this  point ;  and  happily  the 
f  that  hand  was  then  nearly  over.    In  fairness  I 
mi  hound  to  say,  that  then  is  not,  at  tuis  mo- 
tent,  a  single  person  under  our  friend's  care 
:cpt  themselves. 
Jttty  24.— Tan-y-Bwlch,  pronounced  (Tany- 
>uhl,  meaning  the  root  of  the  hilL)   In  our  way 
icre,  wc  stopped  to  sec  two  remarkable  fall*  of 
wntcr,    Doll-y-Mulliii  ; — very  beautiful,  but  of 
which  a  description  would  g  y  little  idea, 

and  therefore  I  shall  not  attempt  it.  We  had  a 
walk  c4'  three  hours  for  one  of  them.  -  1  had  just 
finished  tlse  annexed  sketch,  whoa  we  met,  very 
niaBp totally,  a  ^eudeman  of  our  acquaintance, 
witJi  a  friend  of  his,  and  were  conducted  to  his 
cottage,  most  delightfully  situated,  and  in  the 
best  tahte.  This  procured  ta  a  letter  for  Mr  O  , 
the  proprietor  of  the  admired  valley  of  Festiniog, 
where  we  now  are.  The  house  of  Mr  O.  is  placed 
on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  on  one  irk:  of  the  valley. 
Covered  with  a  line  hanging  wood  to  the  smniui:, 
trough  which  the  house,  a  plain  building  of 
with  a  terrace  before  it,  peeps  out. 


' 


S82 


■-RWLCH. 


overlooking  the  fertile  valley  below,  which  ex- 
tends several  miles  to  the  right  and  left,  with  a 
Utile  river  of  clear  water  winding  through  it. 
The  screen  of  mountain*  forming  the  other  srJe 
or  the  valley,  »  too  near  Uie  eye,  tiw>  rough 
ami  poor  for  beauty.  The  details  of  great  I 
mountain*  (jittering  iuiu  fragments,  are  oiletx 
mean  on  a  near  view,  although  tiie  noblest  ol 
jectt  in  nature  at  a  proper  distance.  The 
part  of  the  land  of  tlus  valley,  which  now  runt* 
at  three  guineas  an  acre,  would  not  fetch  7s. 
twenty  years  ago.  A  great  i»rt  of  this  i 
owing  to  judicious  draining,  on  a  large  scale, 
and  good  turnpike-roads,  where  bridle-paths  only 
Ojated    '  I-aboux  here,  and  nearly  all  over 

Wales,  is  from  fcs.  to  3s.  a-day ;  beef  and  mutton 
sd.  or  9d.  a  pound  -,  fuel  very  cheap,  at  least 
peat,  which  is  to  be  found  everywhere,  cvt 
the  tops  of  the  mountains,  and  stem*  to  coat  only 
the  labour  of  cutting  and  curving  house.    There 
is  much  leas  difference  between  tlie  remote  and 
central  parts  of  this  kingdom,  :  •  m  the  prices  of 
provision  and  labour,  than  I  should  I  ive  i  \pcct* 
ed.     From  an  elevadd  spot  uc  were  shewn,  ai 
tlsc  extremity  of  the  valley,  some  miles  distant**, 
a  great  embankment,  undertaken  by  a  Mr  Mid 
dock,  by  which  about  5000  acres  of  land,  mostly 
sand  and  ]H*at-Und,  arc  to  be  reclaimed  from  the 
*ea.   The  mountain*  on  each  aide  tin  valley  fur- 


TAN-Y-BWLUI— POST-HORSCf. 


233 


niah  stones  which  arc  carried  forward  en  talus 
by  means  of  a  rail-way.  Tlicrc  arc  300  men  at 
work,  Arid  tin:  two  projections  nearly  intnH  in  the 
middle,  where  the  tide  is  so  violent  as  to  carry 
away  the  atones  before  they  reach  the  bottom. 

Jufy  £5. — We  left  Tan-y-BwIch  this  morning 
with  three  horses,  and  the  next  stage  with  two, 
alter  being  obliged  to  take  four  for  the  preceding 
210  miles.  We  passed  by  Bcddgelert,  Carnar- 
von, and  Bangor  Ferry ;— thia  last  in  the  place 
for  embarkation  lor  Ireland,  by  Anglesey.  We 
have  stopped  for  the  night  at  a  country  inn  eight 
mile*  beyond,  superlatively  comfortable,  and  with 
the  finest  view  pomibtr.  It  is  not  a  potf-housc; 
but  finding  tlie  house  at  Bangor  IVrry  roil,  owl 
no  horses  thosw  ul  t.'aiimrvon  km  brought  us 
m>  far,  and  we  have  Kent  forward  for  others  Post- 
horses  do  not  seem  under  much  regulation  ;  the 
price,  fcOi  appear  left  to  the  natural  operation  of 
competition  ;  and  in  remote  places,  where  pott- 
horaes  are  krpt  by  one  person  onl  liter 

ifl  pretty  mo£h  at  hi*  mercy.  I  have;,  however, 
experienced  so  little  difficulty  in  our  already  ex- 
tentivc  travels,  that  I  have  not  yet  taken  the 
trouble  of  ascertaining  whether  there  is  any  legal 
ck  to  exaction* ;  the  fact  is,  that  there  is  less 
ition  to  it,  a  more  accommodating  temper, 
I  Xy  of  behaviour  among  the  people,  than, 
t  only  in  America,  but  in  France,  as  tar  as  1 


•J.S4 


TAS-V-BWICK— WATtKFAU-. 


recollect-     A  pair  of  horses  is  generally  Is.  rjd. 
per  mile,  soracdmes  la.  8d.  or  Is-  4d. ;  lend 
when  necessary,  only   is.  per  mile)  (KHstilliom 
uboul  f}<k  per  mile.    I'errieaare  extremely  high  : 
die  passage  of  Conway  river  COflt  |6&  while  the 
ferry  acro*s  the  North  river  at  New  York,  lour 
times  as  wide,  costs  about  ona  hall  'of  thai  sum. 
./..  v  ■  i. — Before  Betting  oul  tliis  morning,  we 
walked  to  ft  fall  ot  water  a  tew  miles  off  die  road. 
Although  more  dian  fit)<>  feet  high,  vet.  a 
water  iklls  over  a  naked  rock,  without  any  ac- 
companiments, the  height  has  no  effect  till  you 
come  quite  cIckc*  to  the  fall,  niut  rr       i  i    it  in 
fact  with  jroursflV  ;  when  its  height  and  magni- 
tude are  sufficiently  demonstrated.     Tbc  same 
thing  happens  at  Niagara.    There  are  no  near 
objects  of  dimensions  sufficiently  known  to  serve 
as  a  scale;  you  are  obliged  to  have  recourse  to 
JTOOT  imagination  for  Mi:i:r.   :iml  die  surpri 
only  i.      Looking  at  the 

fall  of  Niagara,  you  may  say,  for  instance,  that  it 
a  fir*tratc  ship  of  war  were  brought  to  the  foot 
of  it,  its  main-mast  would  not  reach  the  summit, 
(160  feet);  that  there  would  he  room  tor  die 
same  ship  behind  the  tall, — behind  the  liquid 
vault  which  springs  40  or  50  i.  <>nd  the 

edge  of  the  rock.  Next,  a  is  necessary  to  bring 
to  your  assistance  the  recollection  of  some  well- 
known  river,  to  form  an  idea  of  the  bulk  of  % 


BAXCO*— FALLS  Or  XIACAIU. 


283 


ma 

1 


re  you.  The  Thames,  for  instance,  at  Lon- 
don bridge,  which  is  300  yards  iu  breadth*  or  the 
Seine  nt  Paris,  ISO  yards ;  while  the  Niagara 
river  is  lull  900 yards,  including  the  idand  w 
divides  it  in  two  unequal  portions.  With  thoac 
facts  in  your  mini],  JOB  COM  at  \a.<  to  admire, 
and  be  astonished  ;  but  it  is  an  effort  of  reason, 
you  sec  it  merely  a  great  mill-dam;  but 
what  yuti  measure  and  compare  ia  one  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world. 

The  approach  to  Niagara  is  more  striking  than 
the  fall  it-df.     Coining  to  it  from  behind. 

kacend  tUe  titer  J  7  mile*  from  Lake  Kric 
Chipptway;  further,  you  would  be  carried 
down  to  inevitable  deMniction.    You  then  twirl 
along  a  level  hank  on  the  1:  at  first 

very  little  above  the  water,  deepening  more  and 
more  as  you  advance,  by  the  sinking  of  the  bed 
of  the  river.  The  broad  expaiwc  of  water  slides 
along  an  inclined  plane  wilh  a  rapidity  utly 

aceekiatrd  ; — i  la  bed  Li  encumbered  ititli  roi 
agiiin-.t  which  die  dark  waves  dash  with  inc 
ccivable  fury ; — they  elevate  Uieir  round  mattes, 
then  whirl  in  I  hollow  curves,  and,  from 

the  spreading  foam,  send  up  in  the  air 
ten  jets  of  white  vapour  I. L«  smoke.  Distinct 
(dies  ol  water  seem  U  •  e  tin   |u  -a^e  '.'.-i-i 

aliiT, — they  overleap,  ihcy  delve  under  each 
Hher  with  the  rapidity  of  lightning.    About  two 


- 


S«6 


»W800K—  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA* 


mile*  below  tlic  landing,  you  perceive,  at  a  dis- 
tance, ti  ius  waters  ending 

:il,  a  column  of  vapour 
rising  slowly  up   intn   [he  a'.i.ni:.|«lu  re.      An 

eueral  hoHow  noise  of  ihe  cataract,  uunjiul 
blows  arc  distinguishable,  Jikc  subterraneous  ex- 
plosions.— The  scene  becomes  every  step  more 
terrific.-  c  clearly  that  the  whole  stream 

h  in-allowed  up  ;  it  round**  smoothly  over  the 
of  the  abyss  without  strutfRle,  and  disap- 
pears. Trunks  octrees  mark  sometimes  the  cx- 
y  of  the  current ;— tbey  are  observed 
sltooting  beyond  tiic  edge  of  the  sinking  river. 
Descending  Uu;  bunk  BO  or  100  feet,  you  reach 
Ihe  s:k,— at  !   f.liatura,   level 

of  the  cataract-  There  you  may 
touch  it*  very  edge, — dip  your  hand  in  it, — and, 
with  a  plumb-line,  measure  the  height ;  but  the 
charm  is  in  a  great  degree  dissipated  -,  and,  how. 
ever  Rreat  and  magnificent  the  object  you  see, 
its  effect  does  not  appear  equal  to  what  it  ought 
iiat  you  know  the  rcaJil 
I  hope  tliis  digression  may  be  excused  in  favour 
the  cataract  par  e*cc!U/nc ;  and  the  WeJsIi 
lot  take  it  ami  one  of  their  water.f'aiis 

ogam  to  myrecoHei 
plion,  I  have  only  to  notice 
a  remark  The  water  seems  to 

fall  with  a  i  s  to  stop,  and,  near 


B.1XG0R-— SVOWDON- — "LIES. 


t« 


the  Ixntom,  to  ascend  visibly.  This  is  owin 
the  resistance  of  the  air  on  the  surface,  which 
reduces  it  ii. tn  foam,  and  at  last  into  light  va- 
pour. Tlie  WmtCT,  at  the  moment  of  rounding 
over  llie  edge  of  the  fall,  n  of  the  must  1 
green,  or  sometime*  bripht  blue.  A  sort  of  silver 
tOO  covers  ila  surface  in  graceful  folds, 
growing  whiter  and  tliickcr  as  it  descends  low- 
er ; — tlic  real  fall,  ami  it%  a<x tkrated  motion, arc 
iiiately  hid  by  this  kind  of  veil  of  vapour. 

We  passed  to-day  the  foot  of  Snowdon,  and 
intended  another  poncy  expedition  ;  but  it  rain- 
ed,— the  poniaa  had  been  forestalled  hy  oilier 
tourists, — and  the  fatigue  and  bruise*  of  Gulcr 
Idris  were  not  altogctlier  over ;  therefore  we  had 
only  a  sight  of  Snowdon, — am)  a  '*"ng 

mountain  it  is  vvith  its  cluster  d  interior  moun- 
tains  about  it,  all  bare  rocks.  Snowdon  U  3500 
feci. 

Tliia  moderate  climate  is  ccrtainlv  much  fitter 
for  bodily  cxcrcr.v  tlmo  ili.u  of  Amerien.  Wc 
think  nothing  uf  five  or  iix  mBc*  a -dav  00  foot 
TIm*  flies,  however,  begin  to  be  almost  as  numer- 
ous and  inconvenient  out  of  doors  as  there,  but 
not  in  the  house.  MnakeUKi  are  by  no  means 
unknown.     We  sec  snakes  pel  ;^  the 

only  one  deemed  din  ually 

thought  to  be  full  of  these  reptiles  and  tba 
arc  exposed  every  moment  to  tread  upon  a  rattle- 


588  ST  ASAPHS VALE  Or  CLWYDD. 

snake ;  the  fact  i*»  tint  the  sight  of  a  snake  i; 
not  much  more  common  there  than  here,  and 
mo*t  of  than  we  as  formless.  A  child  armed 
with  a  stick  will  attack  and  kill  the  rattlesnake, 
i  is  \ cry  slu^irisli  ;— it  i.s  ua-t  only  in  dry 
*tony  places.  The  snakes  of  moist  places  are  m 
venomous. 

arc  now  arrived  at  S»  Asaphs,  in  the  beau- 
tiful valley  of  Clwydd,  (pronounced  CUdd)60rV 
2$  miles  to-day,  through  the  fines'  .  ima- 

ublc : — glorious  views  of  theses — ruined  cas- 
des,  with  die  usual  stories  about  Cromwell's  can- 
.    He  vil  a  great  master  of  the  picture wjuc, 
ami  his  ruins  are  always  in  the  tr.     The 

Castle  of  Abcrconway,  600  years  old,  is  -til! 
nearly  i 

July  *7. — On  our  way  from  St  Asaphs  to  Di 
bigh,  we  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  gentleman  we 
had  seen  in  Norfolk  ;  he  was  not  at  home,  bej 
one  of  the  ladies  of  the  ftmily  accompanied  tis 
to  Denbigh.    From  this  house  the  view  takes  in 
the  whole  valley  of  Clwydd,  20  or  30  miles  lor- 
and  about  six  broad,  with  hi  Ik  of  moderate  and 
^ulur  height,  on  each  aide.     A  grear  number 
of  gentlemen's  houses  were  in  sight,  with  tlu-ir 
i  iMial  accompaniments  of  wood  and  lawn,  but  no 
cottages, — I  mean  real  \g%  of  the  poor.  If 

there  ever  was  here  a  revolution  J  in  franfoite, 

declaring  guerre  auz  chdicauxt  pair  aux  cfam* 

II 


VTAJXS — VAI.K  OF  CLWTDD. 


2*9 


the  chateaux  would  certainly  cany  it, 
a  hundred  to  one.  This  general  appear- 
ance of  the  country  brings  to  my  mind  a  bon- 
root  ot  (Jar  Lin,  the  famous  harlequin  :  "  Qnrl 
dummoge  que  pcrc  Adam  ne  sc  soct  pns  uviai 
d'adieter  uoe  charge  dc  Secretaire  du  R«i, — 
nous  serious  tous  nobles  I"  I  do  not  know  what 
office  the  lather  Adam  of  England  bought,  but 
every  body  here  seem*  ricli.  Whenever  I  have 
asked  proprietors  of  land,  or  farmers  why  they 
did  not  build  home*  for  their  labourers,  the  an- 
*ver  las  generally  been,  that  such  house*  are 
"  neat*  of  vermin,  pilferers,  and  poachers ;"  and 

Nthat,  far  from  butldipg,  tln'y  would  ratter  pull 
down  such  houses.  The  labourers  reside  in  sotne 
mall  town  or  village  in  the  neighbourhood. 
penbigh,  for  instance,  lias  doubled  in  extent 
within  a  few  years  by  this  accession  of  inh; 
Unls.  Labourers  have  often  several  milca  to 
walk  to  and  from  tlicir  work,  which  is  so  much 
out  of  their  labour,  ox  out  of  their  rest.  This,  I 
own,  has  lowered  a  little  my  ideas  of  universal 
y,  which  the  appearance  of  this  country  en- 
irages  one  to  form.  There  arc  then,  it  seems, 
obscure  corner*,  where  the  poor  an:  swept  out 
of  the  way,  a*  the.  dust  of  the  walks  of  the  rich, 
in  a  heap  out  of  their  sight ;  and,  to  judge  pro- 
perly of  this  general  prosperity,  it  would  be  nc 

VOL.  U  T 


290 


V.S — POOR  !. .' 


cewory  to  sec  what  puses  in  these  abodes  of  the 
labouring  class. 

Die  poor  of  England  are  under  certain  regu- 
lation*, called  poor*ltnct9  forming  one  of  the  din- 
ttnetive  features o*  this  government.  Tluir  ob- 
ject il  lull*  jKilicc,  ami  half  charity  ;  but  ibeir 
utilitv  very  uucslioiublu.  They  were  principally 
established  under  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
and  furnish  a  Wrong  instance  of  the  danger  of 
governing  too  much.  It  was  enacted,  thai  the 
-eersof  the  poor  "  shall  take  uulcr  from  time 
to  time,  by  and  with  the  consent  of  two  or  more 

ices,  tor  setting  to  work  the  children  o 
Mw.ii  whose  parent*  sJuiH  r.ot,  !>v  the  said  per* 
sons  be  thought  able  to  keep  and  maintain  their 
children  j  and  all  sueh  per?  mi,  cd  or  un- 

married, as,  haviii  .;  no  m.  m  to  maintain  them, 
use  no  ordinary  and  daily  trade  of  life  to  (ret 
their  living  by.  And  also  to  raise,  weekly  or 
otherwise,  l>\  i.'\.>M'M  . 

ever  ult  of  lands  in  tlio  said  paruh  (in 

such  competent  sums  as  they  stall  think  tit),  ■ 
com  stock  of  flax,  Iwrnp,  wool,  thread, 

iron,  and  other  necCHvy  ware  and  stuff,  to  set 
the  poor  to  work"* 


W.tLEA— TOOU  LAWS. 


291 


The  legislators  of  that  period  imagined  tint 
labour  of  any  .sort  wis  sun;  to  command  lutein, 
re  at  any  time, — but  woollen  and  irun-warc 
:e  not  bread.    I    t  in  vippoic  a  greater  number 

weavers,  or  other  workmen,  than  man  mm 
•t*  can  employ  ;  some  of  them  becoming  desti- 
overseers  are  to  set  them  to  work,  ixcotd- 
ig  to  law  ;— that  is  to  say,  arc  to  employ  them 
in  making,  for  the  account  of  the  public,  the 
very  articles  for  which  the  tradfc  had  already  pro- 
ved  unable  to  furnish  them  employment.  The 
market  bring  thus  overstocked,  every  shuttle  set 
in  mono:  putdic  Wpck-tiOftuK  will  ncrcssn* 

tily  slop  another  elsewhere;   for  |<uvat£  m 
facturcfs  cannot  afford  to  lose  on  their  go 

overseers  may.  The  workmen  tlius 
I  by  individual!!  will,  of  course,  {ttSS  nvr; 
to  the  overseers,  till  at  last  the  public,  hecomin** 
the  only  manufacturer,  would  haVc  the  same  sur- 
plus of  workmen  as  the  trade  had  originally,  to 
be  ultimately  supported  without  working,  as  the 
%  wdl  not  sell  beyond  the  conswnMiou,-^ 
U  might  as  well  have  been  done  at  first. 
-houses  have,  therefore,  in  a  great  degree, 
become  Out  of  Lite*   and   weekly  aasIsUDOC  In 
moii'  ituted  to  such  labourers  a»  can 

>rkf  or  whose  work  cannot  support  tin m. 
Money,  however,  is  not  bread,  any  more  than 
woollen  or  iron-ware  ;  for  when  the  baker  has 


292 


WAtES — POOH   LAWS. 


only  ten  loaves  to  offisr  to  ten  purchasers  if  an 
ckvcnlb  purchaser  comes  forward,  his  money 
may  raise  the  price  by  competition,  but  cannot 
create  a  corresponding  eleventh  loaf, — therefore 
unless  money  can  draw  supplies  of' corn  from  fo- 
reign countries,  it  produce*  no  national  relief. 
For  eve  iv  hud  of  bread  you  enable  any  individual 
to  purchase,  by  supplying  him  with  money,  you 
deprive  another  ir  J  of  that  very  loa£ 

TIi:\avsinamv  in  money  aBin  Ln i  to  individuals 
by  the  public,  has,  by  degrees,  increased  toa  pro- 
digious amount.  Foreign  readers  will  hear,  with 
surprise,  that  the  lax  raised  for  that  purpose,  cm 
the  rental  ot  the  kingdom,  exceeds  seven  millions 
sterling,  annually  ;  *  anil  in  some  pamhex  is  im- 
posed at  the  rate  of  4S.  or  5s.  in  the  pound.  The 


*  In  1776,  the  poor-rates  amounted  to  L.lf5!»,?ft0  tferlmg, 
and  the  swage  of  U»c  yeart  I7W-4-5,  »aa  L.S.I$7,740  ««r- 
liftf*.  Tlu  pri.-r  of  who*  in  1775  vw  L.K,  'A.  Si.  itcrUag  j  in 
1 7SS-V5,  L.2,  3a.  7d .  attrtinfc,  per  rnmur  ;  at  the  mmo  \ 
the  workhoim*  cost  LlS.SMtteriing  a 7 car  ;  and  what  if  mo* 
won.Jerful,  L.1IJ1S  ovrling  fur  entertainments  1  L.3M&S 
ftcrlinft  cxpene*  of  removals  of  individual*,  Ac. ;  *rJ  l**il), 
L-W,«)l  itetling  law  ehsffgcsl  Id  trVW,  ifee  poor-rates  went 
U53I8.OO0  iierling,  of  which  £.4*207,000  staling  osdr  ex- 
pendod  on  UM  poor.  The  rack-rental  hi>  then  40  mil 
now  nearly  55  million*,  t!inn?fnr*  the  poor-rates  may  be  cati- 
mated  irrrn  millions  and  a  half  i>ow— Quart trtv  Rtncv,  /V*. 

xn. 


WALES POOH  LAW$. 


*9S 


:ome-tax  itself,  raised  on  all  sort*  of  property, 
id  whkb  is  thought  so  exorbitant,  produces 
from  ten  to  twelve  millions.  The  necessary 
[ucnecs  of  this  system  arc,  i*r.  An  encou- 
ragement to  idleness  and  improvidence,  and  to 
marriage  without  the  means  of  supporting  a  fa- 
mily. 2df  A  multiplicity  of  vexatious  laws  re- 
specting settkmenu,  by  which  the  right  of  remo- 
ving, at  pleasure,  from  one  part  of  the  country 
to  another,  is  so  abridged,  ax  to  attach,  virtu  aUy, 
the  labouring  class  to  the  glebe,  as  the  Russian 
peaaanL  «.  Parishes  being  bound  to  ptw 
each  for  their  own  poor,  it  becomes  a  matter  of 
importance  to  prevent  new  comers  from  aequi 
ring  a  uattcrnent,  by  removal  to  a  new  parish  ; 
and  tiic  poor  axe  repulsed  from  one  to  the  other 
like  mfcetud  persons.  They  arc  sent  back  from 
one  end  of  the  kingdom  to  the  other,  a*  crimi- 
nals formerly  in  France  tk  brigade  cm  brigade. 
You  meet  on  the  high  roads,  1  will  noc  say  often, 
but  too  often,  an  old  man  on  foot,  with  hi*  lit- 
tle bundle, — a  helpless  widow,  pregnant  perhaps 
and  two  or  three  barefooted  children  following 
her,  become  paupers  in  a  place  where  they  had 
not  yet  acquired  a  legal  right  to  assistance,  and 

it  away,  on  that  account,  to  their  orit 

of  settlement,  supported,  in  the  mean  time, 
the  overseers  oC  the  parishes  on  their  way. 


?n 


WAL 


roon-i 


$etttt,  T\w  funds  of  the  poor  are  under  the  admi- 
uiMrntion  of  overseer*,  at  least  as  to  the  Aetttlll 
of  i  ief ;  men  for  the  most  part  not 

h  atiovc  tho*c  do  whom  thry  adurlnfctef  this 
relief*  in  po  nk  mul  education,  and  mor 

awake  to  the  feelings  of  a  little  brief  autlic 
than  to  those  of  enlightened  humanity, — fond  of 
governing ;  watching  die  poor  with  jealousy ; 
meddling  with  the  management  of  their  families 

a  degree  of  ill-nattin-d  curiosity,  and  sub- 
jecting them  to  the  most  odious  of  tyrannic*, 
i*  insupportable  joug  tfe  net  6gmtr*  4*A/y, 
carried  to  an  estt  ml  5s.  in  the  pound  is 

m-ar  an  extreme,}  the  system  of  assessment 
operates  like  an  agrarian  law,  a  levelling  pi 
pic,  tending  to  put  every  thing  in  common  ; 
is  to  destroy  the  very  foundation  of  society;  in- 
dustry,  national  wealth,  science,  and  every  tiling 
which  distinguishes  th«  <  d  from  the  savage 

life,  depending  on  the  right  to  property.  S/A/r/, 
The  wages  of  labour  follow  with  difficulty  the 
gradual  rise  of  price  of  the  necessaries  of  life ; 
Uiis  difficulty  is  increased  by  the  gratuitotw  as- 
aifitaitcL-  given  by  parishes  as  it  obviates  the  ab* 
solute  necessity  of  the  rise  of  wages;  therefore, 
as  observed  by  Mr  Mai  thus,  the  poor-laws  cre- 
ate. In  tact,  the  poor  they  assist.  It  h  very  pro- 
bable that,  upon  the  whole,  neither  the  rich  pa) 


iv  a  LES — POOU-LAW^- POPVLATIOX, 


SM 


; 


,  nor  the  poor  receive  lc?a  tlian  they  would 
H'rwise,  only  they  receive  as  a  charity,  as  aim*, 
hat  might  to  he  salary  ;  with  Mr- 1  ^difference, 
lit!  industrious  IhIkhitit  luving  no  ahnrc  in 
the  aluia  or  auxiliary  salary,  il  much  worse  off 
than  the  idle,  lliclcastof  the  bad  consequences 
to  be  expected  from  the  poor-lawn,  would  be  the 
final  establishment  of  a  monachal  governnic^f. 
like  that  of  the  Jesuit*  in  Paraguay.  Such  is,  I 
twlicve,  tlie  most  prevailing  opinion  respecting 
the  institution;  yet  no  measures  seem  likely  to 
1>c  taken  hy  I^arhament  to  remedy  the  enormity 
of  the  evil.* 

I  am  astonished  that  the  bad  eftects  apprchend- 
tliould  not  be  more  apparent  than  they  are ; 
;  after  all,  I  must  repeat,  that  poverty  is  no- 
where obtrtrairc  here;  no  rag*,— no  famished 
looks, — no  beggar* — few  robberies,  at  least  in 
time  of  war.  Looking  for  a  came  adequate  to 
rJiis,  we  arc  Ini  to  suppose  in  the  manners  of  the 
people  a  dislike*  to  rece  ;  a  salutary 


: 


It  Mcmij  ili.it  if.  tmtc.nl  nf  receiving  parUti  nMiiUncc, 
<ir  wen;  Mipported  by  government,  ami  lh« 
bente  Ut  o|<nt  tsx«  orer  tin-  ud.il*?  kbigdotn,  amy  of  tho 
cttti  would  be  avoided ;  ftctilenuenu,  licig'ttiona,  ui|iorabuu* 
dancr  of  Ufunirrrs  in  oni!  jiarixh,  and  KiarcUv  10  unutlier.  At. : 
while  no  Incotivenicnccj  comparable  to  LZtO  abe-v*  would,  in  alt 
probability  Ue  incurred. 


ALES—  POPCLATIOff. 


pride  which  shrinks  from  Jebaseiuerrt  and  servi- 
tiide.  Under  this  jiunit  of  view,  the  unfeeling 
:ulminiuration  of  overseers  would  be  a  happy  cir- 
cumstance. The  more  bitter  and  disgusting  the 
poisonoiM  draught,  the  fewer  are  those  who  can 
bring  themselves  to  swallow  it.  That  the  popu- 
lation of  a  country  is  determined  by  the  produc- 
tiveness of  its  soil,  is  a  proposition  sufficiently 
c.  ideot ;  and  it  u  well  known  that  the  multipli- 
cation of  the  human  species  has  a  tendency  to 
our-nin  the  menus  of  subsistence  New  coun- 
tries, like  North  America,  double  their  popula- 
tion every  twenty  or  twenty-five  years ;  while 
the  best  possible  state  of  agriculture,  the  utmost 
labour  bestowed  <hi  a  given  extent  of  lund,  will 
not  multiply  iu  produce  beyond  a  certain  pnini 
very  toon  attained  ;  yet  it  lias  l>een  denied  that 
poverty  is  inherent  to  our  nature,  and  the  asser- 
tion, that  the  best  government,  in  favouring  po- 
pulation, ha1  i  fact  die  period  of  natural 
want  and  poverty,  has  becu  treated  as  a  sort  of 
political  impiety.  The  author  of  the  Essay  on 
Population,  already  noticed,  has  been  charged 
with  furnishing  a  pretence  to  the  selfishness  of 
the  rich,  in  regard  to  the  poor,  in  well  as  an  ar- 
gument against  any  whotooQB  nafoitti  in 
vemmcots ;  but  pretences  will  never  !>e  wanl 
to  those  who  sock  for  them  ;  and  the  physicii 
who,  at  the  same  time  that  he  pronounces  a  dis- 


WALES— POPULATION". 


&97 


inn 


order  incurable,  points  out  a  sure  palliative,  docs 
u$  more  good  than  the  quack  who  proraLie*  a 
complete  cure,  never  yet  effected.     The  pallia- 
tive proposed  by  tin-  Esaay  on  Population  be- 
long* to  tiuliviiluul  prudence  and  twin -..r.-.m  e, 
anil  not  to  legislation  -9  namely  this,  not  to  pro- 
create children  till  you  have  wherewithal  to  main- 
tain them  j  jw>t  to  marry  till  you  have  secured  a 
competency.    It  is  not  domestic  independence 
alone  which  would  l>c  secured  by  the  observance 
I  is  rule,  but  alto  political  independence,  rree- 
and  national  strength.     Where  there  arc 
more  labouring  men  than  dftnttd  lor  labour,  the 
lower  claatr*  are  at  the  mercy  of  the  higher,  and 
slave*  aa  in  China,   As  to  strength,  internal  and 
external,  it  is  estimated  far  more  accurately  by 
the  number  of  births  compared  to  the  number  of 
inhabitants,  than  by  that  absolute  number.     If 
£50  annual  births  suffice,  in  .my  given  country, 
to  keep  up  ami  recruit  a  permanent  population 
of  10,000  souU,  ami  in  another  country,  300  an- 
nual birth*  arc  necessary  to  recruit  a  similar  po- 
pulation, it  follows,  that  life  is  shorter  in  the  lat- 
ter country,  and  that  this  inhabitant*  must  be 
wore  exposed  to  want  and  hardship  than  m  the 
r  ;uiid  like* iae,  that  fewer  individual  reach 
uiddle  age,  which  alone  constitutes  an  effi- 
cient population. 


Sffl 


WALES MAI.THCS — POOft-LAU  .4. 


By  i  m  "  Suitisttqiie  G«o^rale  et  BaVtsculifera*1 
lately  published  in  France,  say*  Mr  Malthtfl|  u 
appears  tint  nine-twentieths  of  ihc  French  popu- 
lation b  below  tbe  age  of  twenty.  In  England, 
■r.vi nfattlai  iialy  arc  bfiam  thnt  age  ;  con- 
sequently, out  of  a  population  of  ten  nullum* 
there  is,  in  Midland,  one  million  of'  Individ  i 
above  twenty  more  th.in  in  FraBOtj  which  givci 
300.0)  o  ii.  400,000  males  more  of"  a  nulitar^i 
labouring  i'\  aly  marriages,  without 

<|uate  means  of  subsistence,  might  iocrcav 
dumber  of  birth?,  but  it  doc*  not  follow  that  it 
would  increase  llic  |KipuIatinii»  or  rather  that  it 
would  increase  the  number  of  ^rown  efficient  in- 
ilivi-Iiuls. 

LordCastlereagfa  stated  in  Parliament,  in  March 
last,  that  the  army  amounted  to  3£0,000  men,* 
the  navy  I5i\0oo  men,  exclusive  of  merchant 
vessels;  this  is  nearly  half  n  million  of  am 
the  sole  puq>me  of  war,  out  of  a  population  of 
fl&ACO  or  sixteen  millions.     In  tbi6propori 


•  Tl'ic  Jirmv  i«  recruited  t"  *J::,00*J  men  annually. 

Tbc    fctt*    jKipuialinn    rrlnrii.   nl    i.r.  it    !-it:iin    rnni 
2,.»lf,UM  famQIoK  of  whom  JlXi.OOQ  employed  ui  husbandry 
I •  1 29,0X0  in  trade*  and  uwful  artaj  lha  remaining  51 0,< 

aanaawsarr  coiii|<n»r'I  <•!  ihc  <i\-y  poor,  the  *vry  ncli,  *u 
pro  (clonal.  —  £ tr  Quarterly  Review,  No.  XVL 


wvJ.tS —  rOOB-LAW*. 


*i 


Franco  proper,  independent  of  its  allies,  should 
be  able  lo  keep  up  a  military  and  naval  establish- 
ment  of  more  tluiti  ;i  million  of  mm.  Consider- 
ing how  majiy  inen  the  manufactories  and  com- 
merce; of  England,  and  the  enormous  luxury  of 
servants  employ,  it  appears  evident  that  its  ciE- 
Imputation  bears  a  very  high  proportion  to 
its  nominal  one. 

Respecting  the  poor-laws  much  anxiety  baa 
been  expressed  as  to  a  practical  substitute  ;  for, 
although  the  cm  in  try  might  il»  without  thorn,  «s 
the  example  of  Scotland  shews,  yet  it  is  not  pre* 
tended  that  parish  assistance  could  be  disconti- 
nued suddenly.  The  prodigious  extent  of  waste 
land  appears  to  me  to  otter  the  most  natural  sulv 
strtut.  nation  has  perhaps  two  hundred 

thousand  destitute  families  subsisting  wholly,  or 
in  part,  on  its  bounty  ;  it  has,  on  the  other  hand, 
about  twenty  millions  of  acres  uninclowed,  and 
nearly  useless.  The  cuhiwtiol)  <>i  one-fourth 
port  of  that  land  would  afford  employment  and 
subsistence  to  the  two  hundred  tlwiuwuid  families 
of  paupers.  I  am  aware  that  many  obstacles 
would  haw  to  be  overcome;  yet  the  remedy 
seems  abundantly  equal  to  the  evil.  The  pre- 
sent generation  of  |*oor  once  provided  for,  those 
born  after  a  certain  period  of  years  might,  with 
justice  and  good  policy,  be  left  to  their  own  ex- 


300 


WALES— POOH- LAWS. 


ertions,  ■*  in  other  countries,  and  particularly 
Scotland. 

The  most  plausible  argument  in  favour  of  the 
institution  of  the  poor-laws  is  this :  In  years  of 
scarcity  labourers  arc  induced  to  greater  exer- 
tions by  which  wages  being  soon  lowered,  no  re- 
lief U  obtained.     Idleness,  on  the  contrary,  fol- 
lows years  of  plenty,  and  the  labouring  class  fluc- 
tuate unproritably  between   extremes.      When 
commerce  and  manufactures  flourish,  marriages 
are  encouraged,  but  circumstances  changing  be- 
fore the  increased  population  has  grown  up,  af- 
ford no  longer  a  demand  for  the  young  labour- 
ers.    When,  on  the  contrary,  trade  languishes, 
the  population  receives  a  check,  and  a  deficiency 
of  labourers  takes  place  by  the  time  labourers 
come  to  be  again  in  demand.    The  poor  laws, 
by  extending  or  withdrawing  pariah  assistance, 
according  to  circumstances,  prevent  these  vicis- 
situdes being  felt;  they  establish  an  equality  be- 
tween seasons  of  plenty  and  of  scarcity ;  and, 
by  neutralizing  accidental  encouragements  and 
checks,  regulate  die.  population  on  the  average 
demand  ;  in  short,  the  pourJaw*  are  represented 
as  the  fly-wheel  of  political  economy- 

This  boosted  regulating  principle  equalizes 
indeed  poverty,  but  it  is  obvious  it  doc*  not  re- 
lieve it,  for  it  adds  nothing  to  die  deficient  stoi 


WALES'-  rOOK-L AW  I . 


SOI 


of  subsistence.  The.  lowering  of  wages  anil  in- 
imluaUy,  by  supplying  trade  with  plenty 

cheap  articles,  ioducc  cxportations  and  corwc* 
qucnt  returns  in  corn,  die  only  specific  against 
scarcity. 

Hie  poor-lawn,  like  all  other  complicated  bm- 
i  in  cry,  arc  easily  put  out  of  order,  and  their  du- 
bious utility  it  more  than  balanced  by  inevitable 
abuses.  The  interference  of  government  in  the 
domestic  concerns  of  individuals,  weakens  die 
feeling  of  personal  responsibility  and  the  natural 
inducement*  to  industry  and  sobriety,  the  true 
safeguard  against  poverty. 

The  establishment  of  saving  banks  seems  the 
only  effectual  rind  iinrxccfuionabtc  mode  of  as- 
vistance  in  the  power  of  government  to  give ; 
thai  is,  places  of  deposit  where  labourers  may  at 
any  time  secure  their  mnistgs  ia  sums  ever  so 
small,  bearing  interest,  without  any  trouble  or 
risk.  It  is  well  known,  that  the  difficulty  of  pre- 
serving or  laying  out  to  advantage  those  hard- 
earned  saving*,  discourages  economv  in  low 
life. 

Wc  were  shewn  fn  the  Vale  of  Clwydd  tlic 
house  »f  Mr*  Piozzi,  better  lurwD  as  ihi-  friend 
of  Dr  John&on  under  tlvc  name  of  her  first  hus- 
band,  Mr  Thrale*  Stic  is  a  widow  for  the  se- 
cond time  \  and  is  represented  us  lively  and 
agreeable.     Another  house  was  pointed  out  t# 


90S      WALES — ANECDOTE  OF  31B  U. — FRUIT. 


lis,  tint  of  a  Mr  Hughrs,  whn  was  a  poor  cicr- 
gyiuaii,  ami  is  now  in  the  receipt  of  an  income 
of  L.73,000  sterling  a-ycar  from  the  rich  Angle* 
*ea  copper-mines,  discovered  a  few  yearn  ago  on 
a  barren  piece  nr  land,  of  which  he  was  in  part 
proprietor.  Lord  Uxbridge,  who  owns  a  part  of 
the  ground,  was  in  treaty  for  his  share  a  abort 
time  before  the  discovery  of  the  mine,  and  they 
lmc!  agreed  upon  a  sum,  (a  very  small  one,)  when 

I  U.,  neglecting  to  meet  the  parson  on  l 
appointed,  to  finish  the  business  the  Utter,  of- 
fended, would  not  give  him  another  meeting,  and 
the  sale  did  not  take  place.  Mr  U.  bought  this 
estate  in  the  Vale  of  Clwydd  1cm  L.250,000  ater- 
being  upwards  of  5000  acres  of  very  rich 
land,  at  U*8  an  acre.  Land  in  this  place  rents 
from  L.S  to  USi  iOw.  an  aat.  Labour  is  a*. 
a*day,  and  nothing  found.  Poor-rates  have  been 
lately  ate  in  tin;  pound. 

Thus  cb'rrMtc  is  not  favourable  to  fruit ;  witli 
pro-  cr  care  some  is  produced  at  great  cxpcncc  ; 
but  tint  i?*  not  within  reach  of  the  bulk  of  the 
people.  'It j  make  up  for  this  deficient  >.  ■ 
English  have  raised  to  the  rank  of  fruit  that  wild 
berry  (gooseberry)  known  in  France  by  the  name 
of  grosdiit  «r  masf  urmnr ;  they  have  in  fact  made 
iug  so  improved  it  by  cuhi\  nlion  as 
to  bring  it  to  a  respectable  size  and  taste.  I  mea- 
sured some  ihrcc  inches  and  a  quarter  in  circwm- 


JOCOLISH  LANG 0 AGS. 


SOS 


,  Strawberries  arc  better  here  than  in 
America,  and  perhaps  than  in  France.  The  ate- 
ril.tv  of  Ibc  climate  in  point  of  t'n:it;  win*  to 
bare  passi'il  into  their  names  :  monL  at "tin:  xniall- 
c -T  n:ie*  are  composed  ot"  berry  and  some  desi>c- 
uative  addition  lacked  to  it.  The  urncs  of  birds 
partake  of  this aierittty : — gold*fiocii, — .Mill-finch, 
— chaffUinch,— green-Uncli,  oik!  ail  tkcftwhcstf 
tAegwoe. 

Although  poor  in  these  respects,  the  English 
language  is  one  of  the  rioteri  in  Europe.  John- 
eon's  Dictionary  contains  nearly  :JT,rxK>  words, 
while  the  French  Dictionary  of  the  Academy 
has  not  quite  30,000.  Johnson*  has  many  obso- 


•  TAing  100  page*  of 
.Tohmon'»  Dirtimttry,  nxne 
of  (itch  of  the  different  letters 
lor  die  whole,  t  Iwvo  found 

i.win  ibbsfaoCNsf 
lOiitf  rcrfca 

ftSMadjrctirw 
XffiSadveftM 

StfMi  word*. 


TIi*    Dictionary    ■ 
Fnmcli  Ae*ilmir,  rJition  of 
.\i«mc»,    17m.    Mlt   S4ippl«w 
ment,  taking  1 18  page*  in  the 

>ame  wr),  and  calculiimj;  on 
80  wonlt  for  every  page  ot  the 
Mippleracnt,  gtve 

1*7  J  ti  aubaUntivca 
4AS0  verba 
4S03  aiijectivca 
ins  4  ail  verba 

f0?l?word». 

both  cue*  word*  with  different  meanings  have  boon  takon 
the  account  for  onu  only.     Many  worda  in  Joniwon'i  Du-i- 


904 


EXCUSH  LANGUAGE. 


Ictc  words,  but  there  are  lull  as  many  now  in  use 
which  he  luut  not-  The  Spanish  language  b  said 
to  have  90,000,  and  the  Italian  S3.000.  The 
English  adopt  new  word*  more  readily  than  the 
French  do  ;  their  best  speakers  in  Parliament  in- 
troduce them  sometimes,  and  they  arc  naturali- 
zed on  their  authority.  The  language  of  tlic 
English  court  was  half  Norman  French  till  Hen- 
ry VIII.  It  did  not  acquire  a  homogeneous  and 
regular  form  till  Shakespeare  and  Bacon ;  and  al- 
though it  has  been  improved  ami  enriched  since 
that  time,  yet  the  style  ofShakctpcarc  is  not  old 
compared  to  other  writers  of  the  same  period,— 
much  lf.M  so  than  Sully  and  Montaigne's.  To 
the  multitude  of  words  ending  in  s  the  English 
owes  that  prevailing  hissing  sound  which  is  re- 
marked I iy  foreigners.  Opening  Johnson's  Dic- 
tionary at  random,  I  liave  found  generally  three 
words  in  each  page  terminate*]  in  eut  making 


•nary  bs*»  iwanty  of  thirty  dUtinct  meaning*  (m  mei*)  has 
fiO)-runca  (fo  '-■)  lixtvtix.  In  the  Uittiwiary  of  the  Aca- 
demy, a  mo4  wrrKhml  performance  every  way,tbe4awm»c*a 
and  shades  of  meaning  of  each  word  ore  **  Inaccurately  and 
absurdly  marled,  inat  U  u  impoatibja  to  atontaia  me  aamber 
of  different  meaning*  of  which  each  word  is  capubla. 

TV  author  finds  that  Mr  Ijnillcr  Mumv  reckon*  only 
4300  regular,  and  177  irregular  M-rtn,  in  thu  Kn^Uih  language. 
{Grammar,  p.  169,)—  Not*  to  Second  lvditioo. 


WALES — I.AKCU 


305 


about  3000  words ;  and  beside*  these,  the  third 
person  singular  of  all  verbs  terminates  in  j,  as 
alio  the  plural  ami  possessive  case  of  all  nouns. 
The  general  sound  of  the  language  b  in  other 
respects  meagre  and  hard ;  it  does  not  flow,  hut 
proceeds  by  jerks,  and  with  a  tone  by  no  means 
harmoniou*  and  pleasing  to  tlie  ear.  The  Knglish 
themselves  have  no  idea  of  that  general  efffcet ; 
■one  can  judge  of  it  properly  but  those,  who*  not 
undemanding  the  language,  attend  solely  to  the 
sounds;  and  I  new  speak  ofit  from  recollection 
tit" what  I  lilt  before  the  sense  took  up  rny  in 
lion,  and  before  habit  had  familiarized  my  ear  to 
the  sound.  The  French  language,  under  similar 
circumstances,  appears,  1  understand,  dull  and 
inarticulate,  wanting  accent  and  elasticity, — and 
not  sufficiently  sonorous.  Among  the  modern 
languages  the  Italian  alone  deserves  to  lie  called 
musical, — and  perhapj  the  Spm.ih.  The  Russian 
and  Swedish  are  said  to  have  softness.  The  Eng- 
lish, however,  makeaupfor  its  poorness  Qftound 
by  capacity  and  vigour ;  it  is  highly  descriptive, 
and  possesses  a  great  range  of  expression.  The 
French  is  eminently  elegant,  clear,  and  simple. 
The  intricacy  cA^  our  nicest  feelings  might  be 
best  described  in  the  one,  their  depth  and  energy 
in  the  other;  and  the  French  lias  perhaps  the 
advantage  in  treating  didactic  subjects.    A  com- 

VOL.  I-  V 


900 


UALti — L.4XCCAGE — H»Utr*. 


pa  ative  estimate  of  the  two  language*,  word  to 
word,  and  idiom  to  idiom,  the  summing  up  of 
tfceb?  means,  and  an  accurate  return  of  their  re 
spri'tivi-  forces,  would  naturally  produce  a  good 
dictionary  of  the  two  languages,  which  at  present 
is  not  in  i  Knti  ncc.  It  would  be  a  work  to  under- 
take in  old  age,  when  no  livelier  interest  or  pur- 
8uit  remains;  a  daily  occupation, — a  quiet  and 
durable  sort  of  amusement  ••■  A  h  you  may  be 
sure  not  to  survive  ;  tlie  only  friend  and  compa- 
nion, perhaps,  to  solace  your  last  years. 

Returning  to  Irtut,  from  which  the  above  nu 
possibly  he  considered  as  an  unwarrantable  di- 
gression,— aj>pJes  are  scarce,  knotty,  and  slunU 
cd  ;  people  in  America  would  not  think  it  worth 
while  to  gather  them.  Cider,  however,  is  good 
here,  but  dear,  and  in  those  parts  of  the  country 
we  have  \i>ited  cannot  be  the  common  drink  of 
the  inhabitants;  which  is  not  tobt  regretted,  beer 
bcinc  a  more  wholesome  beverage.  1  am  pleased 
to  rind  that  ardent  spirits  have  not  superseded 
malt  liquors  among  the  labouring  claw*  to  the 
degree  I  had  been  led  to  expect.  There  ai 
certainly  many  fewer  rum -drinker*  here  than  in 
American  U  nrking.pcoplc  are  not  saturated  with 
alcohol;  and  vim  have  not  hi  -jnrmioi. 

moapbere constantly eroanatii         n  the  pores  of 

one  half  of  the  males,  and  a  considerable  portion 
of  tile  females  of  that  cJass  in  America,  which 


WALES WBEAT. 


w 


your  nose  two  or  three  steps  off,  whenever 
yon  ipproach  them.  It  is  not  uncommon 
labourers  to  use  in  the  course  of  the  day  a  pint  of 
nun,  and  in.iiiv  of  them  a  quart ;  a  dose  which 
would  kill  outright  any  pmoo  DOt  accustomed 
to  it  in-  degree*.  This  daily  dose  ot*  poison  costs 
the  American  labourer  from  one  to  two  shillings 
ling  a-day,  that  is  at  katt  ■  fourth  part  ot* 
his  earnings,  and  eflnaltJKW  things  I  ■  him 

and  the  European.  Tlie  excise  on  distilled  li- 
quors is  a  species  of  salutary  censure  on  public 
morals  j — but  we  are  too  uice  on  the  article  of 
lihcrty  in  America  to  bear  with  this  device  of 
despotism . 

The  rains  of  the  laat  fortnight  have  revived 
the  hopes  of  farmers,  and  the  crop  of  grain  will 
■ot  be  so  deficient  as  was  C  1.     It  is  re- 

markable that  this  obstinate  drought  ot  the  spring 
hi  been  I  vperienced,  not  only  over  a  great  part 
of  EuropOj  hut  in  North  and  South  America. 
The  apprehension  uf  an  extraordinaiy  scarcity 
was  the  more  eerious,  as  England  Iws  very  little 
surplus  in  its  most  fruitful  years.  From  179:*  to 
1604,  the  importations  of  foreign  wheat  have  cost 
England  tbirty.three  millions  sterling/  and  the 


Jcphion  Odily  on  \rt\ar\A  Nnripmion. 


$06 


WALKS SALMON — LLAXGOLLKX. 


government  ha*  paid  in  premiums  on  these  im- 
portation! the  following  enormous  sums: — 
In  isoo,        L.  44,8:*6  sterling. 
I  SO  J,        1,+20,S5J 
1803,  715,523 

1803,  43,977 

Salmon  is  extreme  ly  plenty  along  this  coast. 
which  abound*  in  rapid  streams  falling  into  the 
sea.  It  is  our  daily  food-  The  heat  of  summer  is 
so  temperate,  that  wc  have  a  fire  every  evening  j 
—without  necessity,  but  as  a  pleasure  after  the 
fatigue  of  a  day's  journey.     Coal  is  cheap  here. 

The  number  of  country  hanks  is  so  astonish- 
ing that,  unable  to  judge  if  the  paper  circulating 
is  good  or  bad,  I  take  it  without  the  least  exami- 
nation, and,  as  I  have  D01  received  a  bank-note 
that  was  doubted  afterwards,  I  presume  there  arc 
few  counterfeits.  No  gold  at  all  to  be  seen,  and 
mKi  il  change  only,  without  any  visible 

stamp,  und  worn  to  half  its  weight. 

July  2&* — Wc  travelled  to-day  from  Ruthven 
■tag  tin  vail-  oi  Clwydrl,  and,  ascending  the 
rampart  of  hills  which  encloses  it,  wc  admired, 
for  site  last  time,  this  magnificent  exti  nt  d  i  u\- 
livation.  The  narrow  ridge  soon  brought  to  our 
view  another  deep  and  rich  valley  ;  LlangolU  u, 
of  still  greater  renown  than  its  neighbour,  al- 
though I  do  not  think  it  deserves  it  so  well  ;  it 
appeared  to  us  deeper  than  the  vale  of  Clwydd, 


LLANGOLLEX — VALLE  CRUCIS  ABBEY.   309 


nud  the  in -: vi n  on  Uiis  side  of  the  ridge  steeper 
than  tin?  ascent  Itad  b*m.  H'c  soon  carac  to  a 
altered  spot,  where  the  ruin-  <>i  \ 
bey  are  seen  in  fat  fields,  level,  rich,  and  low, 
with  a  clear  stream  traversing  them,  and  the  an- 
cient fish-pond  still  entire.  On  the  brow  of  a 
neighbouring  hill,  and  threatening  the  valley, 
which  the  Althev  named  to  enjoy,  appeared  the 
wall*  of  Ohm*  lliun,  or  ("row  Cattle-  The  am 
of  Valle  Crucis  Abbey  now  encloses  a  grove  of 
lofty  ash  trees  winch  overtop  bbc  ruing,  and  have 
;i  1 1 mi  and  singular  effect ;  so  interwoven  nre  the 
root*  ami  the  ruiiu,  that  stones  appear,  to  grow- 
out  of  the  trees,  as  well  as  trees  out  of  the  stones. 
Some  pcuantt  bave  taken  op  tbeir  abode  mong 

the  remains  of  the  cloisters;  cows  and  hogs, 
chickens  and  children,  climb  and  perch  on  the 

i  trees  and  ruins,  and  you  may  see  here  a  pair  of 
horns,  there  a  child's  head  or  a  pig's  peeping 
through  the  windows,  among  Gothic  carvings  and 
green  boughs. 

Near  Llangollen,  where  wc  dined,  is  the  resi- 
dence of  tWO  Imlii's  whose  nuine*  are  ulei:! 
with  the  vale,  Lady  FL  Butler  and  Miss  Ponsonby ; 
and  after  having  informed  ourselves  of  the  eti- 
quette of  the  place,  wc  dispatched  a  note  request- 
ng  permission  to  see  the  grounds,  announcing 
Ive*i  in  hopes  of  strengthening  our  claim, 
as  American  travellers.     The  ladies,    however. 


m.]0      IXAKCUU-EN — LADT  E.  H.  AND  MISS  P. 


were  cruel,  and  answered,  "  it  was  not  conve- 
nicat  to  permit  tin*  place  to  be  seen  that  day." 
The  landlady,  who  had  overheard  aoroe  wordl 
French  spoken  among  u*.  observed  that  the  ladies 
were  fond  of  the  French  language,  and  that,  il 
v»c  had  petitioned  in  French,  we  should  have 
been  admitted.   The  hint  came  too  late.   Taking 
a  guide,  however,  wc  were  conducted  round  the 
hermitage.     The  boute  ifl  on  a  road  •,  it  is  high 
and  narrow,  and  behind-hand  in  point  of  taste  to 
die  present  style  of  elegant  cottages.  Hie  garden 
is  very  una II,  and,  from  ;i  height  which  overlooks 
it,  we  could  t>ee  nothing  to  make  us  regret  not 
having  been  admitted.     A  former  tourist  (I  be- 
lieve Madame  de  Genii*,)  gives  a  charming  de- 
scription Of  it,  but  u  to  us,  the  grapes  were  sour. 
French  readers  may  \mh  to  learn  something  of 
these  ladies.     Their  story  is  anderttood  to  be* 
it  with  birth,  beauty,  and  fortune,  they  era- 
braced,  in  tJie  prime  of  their  youths,  half  a  cen- 
tury ago,  the  romantic  idea  of  consecrating  tin- 
remainder  of  their  lives  to  pure  iricnd*liip,  far 
from  the  world,  its  vanities  lis  pleasures  and  it* 
pains  ;  and,  literally  running  uwuy  from  their 
families  in   Ii  eland,   with  a  faithful  woman-ser- 
in, lately  dead,  they  hid  themselves  in  this  then 
profound  solitude,  when  they  have  lived 
since.   Tlie  following  inscription,  I  am  inform 
is  placed  in  the  garden  : 


CHESTER — CHtOK  CA8T1X.  311 

Canucrtt  dai*  rob** 
tiv*  loi-irt  a  IVludu,  i  I'jiniLtf  w  vS*» 
Voili  Jc*  jour*  tlignc*  d'cimc. 
Ktrti  eMri  iftut  micui  qu'ftm  v*nl£. 

The  obscurity  has  long  been  dissipated  ;  but  the 

I  friendship,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  has»urvivi xi    Unit* 
gollen  is,  like  all  the  little  ol<l  towns  ul  this  and 
all  countries  a  hideous  object. 
Juttt  vi>.— From  Llangollen,  by  Wrexham  and 
Chester,  46  miles.  We  visited  this  morning  Ch  irk 
OhUOi     It  is  a  quadrangular  building,  with  bat- 
tlements all  around ;  a  tower  at  each  comer  and 
one  over  the  gateway.    It  stands  on  an  ample 
knoll,  carpettcd  to  the  very  toot  of  tire  walls  with 
Hit  finest  lvri\  bat  without  *  shrub  or  tree  near 
it.    Thiw  nuralatrd,  and  -.lit'  high  walls  pierced 
with  a  few  diminutive  windows,  it  looks  great, 
but  melancholy  j  and  the  court  inside,  surround- 
ed with  apartments  on  arches,  does  not  dinnn 
the  firtt  impression.    You  ascend,  however,  byi 
noble  staircase  to  lhe«  apartments.     Tliry  arc 
found  to  be  a  suite  of  the  finest  rooms,  lighted 
by  windows  fern  in  number,  bat  very  large,  (the 
same  which  appear  outside  so  small,)  looking 
over  the  finest  view  imaginable,  and  the  cheerful- 
lost.     First,  the  velvety  green  all  round;  grove9 
i     <       i     ding  trees,  in  a  careless 
trregokr  line  ;  beyond  that  again,  anil  Knver,  a 
rich  cultivated  vale,  and  blue  hills  in  the  hori- 


SIS 


CUKSTES —  PHI60V. 


zon, — the  usual  termination  of  Welsh  landscapes. 
The  castle  has  a  gallery  MX)  feet  long,  with 
shining  oak  floors  and  wainscotting,  statc-bc<b 
and  furniture  of  the  )6lh  or  17th  century,  and 
a  number  of  bad  pictures.  Wc  walked  in  the 
groves,  where  roses  and  honeysuckles  wasted 
their  sweetness  on  the  desart  air.  The  proprie- 
tors of  this  paradise,  three  sisters,  arc  at  this  mo- 
ment enjoying  U*c  heat  and  dust  of  London,  and 
are  not  expected  for  a  long  time  to  come. 

At  tester  wc  visited  the  court. bouse  wirl 
prison  of  the  county,— a  new  building  of  classi- 
cal appearance,  the  interior  of  which  is  on  a  plan 
of  the  celebrated  philanthropist,  (not  of  that  sort 
who  made  the  French  revolution)  Howard.  This 
is  its  plan  :    The  windows  of  (he  keeper's  apart- 


CHESTER — FBI  SON. 


313 


merits  overlook  lite  rooms  or  cells  of  the  prison- 
which  are  disposed  in  a  seuiiemle,  ope 
and  two  on  a  small  court  or  garden,  to  which 
;y  have  access  all  day,  and  arc  only  shut  up  at 
Hi  A  list,  placed  on  the  balcony  before  the 
riudows  of  the  keeper,  informs  you  of  the  name 
:h  prisoner,  his  crime,  &e.  1  be  court  forms 
also  a  semicircle ; — the  judge  and  jury  in  the 
centre,— the  spectators  on  the  stone  amphithea- 
tre all  around.  The  prisoner  is  brought  by  a  sub- 
terraneous passage:  to  his  place  before  tin 
The  court  is  lighted  by  a  sly-liglif,  with  vi 
tors  to  renew  the  air.  The  front  of  the  building 
b  adorned  by  a  Doric  portico,  the  columns  of 
which,  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  twenty  high, 
are  cadi  formed  of  a  single  piece,  and  the  whole 
building  of  the  same  stone,  in  Urge  blocks  of  a 
yellow  colour,  from  a  quarry  near  at  lund. 
funds  have  been  drawn  from  the  surplus  pro- 
tee  of  a  canal  in  the  neighbourhood  beyond  a 
xtain  per  ccntagc  stipulated  in  the  charter. 
'hat  pleased  us  most  was,  to  Ihul  that  this  ex- 
it house  hod  so  few  inlialiiuriis  ;  and  the 
r,  who  appeared  to  In*  ;i  respectable  man, 
informed  us  further,  that  there  had  been  only 
three  executions  in  the  county  of  Chester  in  nine 

1  ic  city  of  Chester  has  an  antique  physiog- 
nomy, not  exactly  of  classical,  but  rather  barba- 


$14 


CltEftfSft CUUN  i 


rous  antiquity.  The  Afreets  an  in  the  houses;— 
the  groumMlooi  is  hollou  and  open  to  die  pnh- 
li  ■,      i     -it  of  covered  gallery,  dark,  dirty,  ami 
crooked,  and  up  and  down*  with  unexpected 
steps  down  whictl  j  ou  run  the  risk  of  falling 
every  moii ii  r1      I  nc  origin  of  this  singular  style 
of  architecture  »  traced  luck  to  the  times  when 
the  neighbouring  Welsh  made  inroads  on  the 
frontier  town  of  Cheater,  when  the  inhabitants 
,ed  themselves  to  advantage  from  their  gal- 
krics.   'lliey  are  still  of  great  use  against  an  ene- 
my, to  whofte  attacks  I  hey  an?  as  mucii  cxjhv 
aa  ever, — frequent  rains.    The  city  has  a  thick 
wall,  on  the  top  of  which  :»  a  public  walk — the 
country  on  one  side,  anil  the  town  on  the  other. 
The  houses  of  Uie  modern  part  of  Cheater  liavi 
no  galleries,  and  resemble  those  of  the  rest  of 
England  \ — that  is  to  say,  that  tliey  arc  very  clci 
and  cotrvoucfit. 

Tike  country  we  saw  to-day  was  cultivated  like 
a  garden.  We  finished  our  day's  journey  by 
crossing  the  river,  m  rather  arm  of  the  sea,  at 
Liverpool. — along,  inionvcnieni,  nil  \-\\u  -i 
ferry,  (28?.),  and  we  have  been  landed  OH  the 
quay  of  this  great  town  with  our  carriage  with- 
out horses,  without  I  towhg  where  to  rind  any, 
wh  BB  to  go,  or  to  whom  to  apply.  After  some 
unsuccessful  attempts    U  ira  private  lod- 

,  we  were  obliged  to  put  up  at  the  Liver- 


LffERPOOL — MR  R0SCOE- 


31-5 


pool  Arras,  a  sort  of  Noah's  Ark,  like  all  great 
inns  in  sea-port  towns. 

Jugutt  1. — Mr  G.  of  London,  whom  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  meeting  sometimes  at  Sir  Joseph 
Banks'*,  but  on  wlmv  attentions  I  had  no  sort 
of  claim,  sent  me,  the  day  before  our  departure 
from  r.nn.lou,  letter*  to  some  of  his  friends  at 
Oxford,  Liverpool,  and  Edinburgh.  I  take  plea- 
sure in  mentioning  here  this  instance  of  kind- 
ness (for  it  *urcly  deserves  a  higher  name  than 
politeness)  to  a  mere  stranger.  One  of  these  fet- 
ters was  for  Mr  Koacoc,  well  known  us  the-  his- 
torian  of  the  Medici.  I  wa*  surprised  to  find  him 
at  the  head  of  one  of  the  first  banking-houses  in 
Liverpool, — a  great  agriculturist, — an  architect, 
— and  »  lover  of  the  £nc  arts; — these  are  points 
of  resemblance  with  his  hero.  Mr  Rimcoc  has  a 
ntiTuenui-.  l.imily,  seven  sons,  but  none  of  them 
will  be  Pope,  the  trade  being  now  good  for  no- 
thing. We  breakfasted  yesterday  at  his  house  in 
the  country.  His  family  is  remarkable  for  culti- 
vation of  mind  anil  simplicity  nt*  manners.  In 
stature  and  physiognomy.  Mi  R.  Iiears  some  re- 
semblance to  Washington. 

There  is  a  manifest  antipathy  between  men  of 
business  ami  men  of  letter*  ;  yet  they  are  surely 
not  rivals,  and  I  do  not  see  why  tin  .v.-  wbD  seek 
after  fsme  should  complain  that  they  do  not  find 


310 


UBttroor. — ktcjjixcs. 


fortune,  or  those  whose  object  is  wealth,  that 
they  do  oot  get  renown  : 

Chacun  «e  doii  contralcr  du  ton  bien, 
Tvut  uniiiiriil  unx  w  vaotcr  dv  rivn. 

It  is  uncommonly  fortunate  to  have  run   botl 
races  at  once,  and  gained  both  prizes. 

Mr  R-  has  a  tew  good  pictures  and  had  just 
acquired  a  ikew  one  ;  the  history  of  which  I  un- 
derstood to  be  as  follows :  Raphael  had  paintci 
the  portrait  of  his  patron  Leo  X.  On  the  second 
Ifedid  coming  to  the  pontifical  i-luu'r,  die  Duke 
of  Florence  having  desired  to  have  Uiat  portrait, 
the  new  Pope  gave  orders  accordingly ;  but  cither 
with  his  knowledge*  or  without,  a  copy  was  sub- 
stituted. After  a  few  years*  tlic  trick  was  disco- 
vered, and  the  Duke  complaining,  the  original 
ww  sent.  A  second  copy  was,  however,  previ- 
ously made,  and  perhaps  again  sent  to  the  Duke, 
deceiving  hiro  a  second  :i  r.c  Whether  the  one 
taken  at  Florence,  and  now  at  Paris,  is  the  ori- 
ginal or  not,  or  which  ever  of  the  three  Mr  ttos- 
coe's  is,  it  is,  at  any  rate,  a  tine  picture  \ — great 
simplicity  in  the  attitudes,  and  much  of  the  ex- 
pretsion  one  would  attribute  to  Leo  *— a  liberal, 
welt-informed  gentleman,  widfcout  extraordinary 
genius.  His  relation  standing  by  him,  the  future 
Pope,  has  more  mind  and  vigour,  Leo  is  as  large 


LIYEBPOOL — ETCHINGS. 


as  lite,  seated  near  a  tabic,  a  missal  open  before 
him,  richly  illuminated ;  a  large  silver  bell  and 
his  spectacle  hfl  Ml  hand. 

Mr  R.  had  die  goodnew  to  the*  us  hit  valua- 
ble collection  of  etchings  of  great  pai  liters,  by 
themselves  ;  beginning  by  the  masters  of  the  art, 
Leonardo  da  Vfnci,  Raphael,  fee.  and  ending,  1 
think,  with  Vandyck,  beyond  whom  the  practice 
baa  not  been  continued.  Some  of  these  pari 
lave  left  only  two  or  three  etchings,  ami  the  ar- 
dour of  the  dillcttanti  to  get  them,  and  find  out 
the  true  ones,  and  the  mistakes,  and  cheating, 
and  quarrelling  abottt  these  scraps  (some  of  them 
very  bad  certainly),  is  a  caricature  of  the  tnre 
taste  of  the  art.  It  is  like  the  faith  in  relics, 
compared  to  piety.  Mr  R.  mentioned  a  German 
work,  in  three  volumes,  giving  the  history  of 
all  these  etchings,  with  explanatory  engravings 
teaching  how  to  know  the  true  ones.  Those  of 
Berghem  and  Vandyck  appeared  to  me  the  best, 
with  a  few  of  those  by  Salvator  Rosa. 

Liverpool  a  good  deal  resembles  New  York. 
Tlir  latter  town  is  larger,  (9fi,000  inhabitants, 
id  of  8(\00O,)  and  perhaps  better  built  as  to 
common  dwellings;  but  the  pub!  '  Eldfnga  of 
Liverpool  arc  more  numerous  and  in  a  better 
style  of  architecture.  There  are  several  htrrary 
establishments,  with  respectable  libraries,  in  large 
and  convenient  apartments,  and  well  attended  by 


< 


.1IS       UVKJUPOOL— <iUATS— MEaCHANDI2f. 


tiic  inhabitant*  of  tlm  great  commercial  town, 
who  arc  not  nearly  so  exclusively  merchants  as 
those  on  the  western  continent.  The  docks  arc 
built  of  fnwtooe,  insuad  of  trunks  of  trees,  and 
every  thing  is  mure  substantial.  Tin-  harbour 
is  otherwise  very  inferior  to  that  of  New  York, 
which  w  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  Liver- 
pool is  the  port  in  England  matt  frequented  by 
the  Americans  ;  there  arc  now  here  200  of  thrlr 
vessels.  They  bring  annually,  in  the  single  article 
of  cotton,  L.  2,000,000  sterling ;  and  yet  I  can 
remember  liaving  seen  the  first  sample*  of  Sea 
i*bwd  cotunt  ahewn  n*  ity  at  New  Yo 

twenty  years  ago.  The  warehouse*  are  pro 
giously  high ;  1  observed  many  nine  stories  hij/ 
and  have  heard  of  thirteen ;  tin  interval  between 
cadi  floor  is  not  more  than  seven  or  cdgtit  feet, 
and  these  floors  often  of  iron.  Land  lets  in  the 
neighbouring  country  at  »»<.  an  acre,  (double 
the  common  statute  acre,}  and  sells  at  thirty  year* 
purchase.  labour  £*.  fid.  to  3s.  »day.  Our 
hill  at  tlh*  hotel  was  1*7  for  three  days,  which  is 
tolerably  exorbitant.  The  price  cif  every  thing 
indeed  is  nearly  the  same  as  in  London. 

English  commerce  dots  not  seem  to  have  suf- 
fered materially  by  the  political  experiment  to 
which  the  United  Mates  have  had  recourse,  in 
1907,  under  the  name  of  embargo,  afterwards 
non-intercoursc,  &c.    "Navigation  has  ccitainly 


tea 


LIVERPOOL COM  ttCRCK. 


m 


benefited  by  it ;  and  if  manufactures  have  iu 
cd,  it  is  Dot  so  much  as  might  have  been  Mijiposcd. 
The  United  States  imported  from  England,  before 
the  embargo,  man  red  goods  to  the  amount 

glit  millions  sterling  annually,  but  reexport- 
ed two  millions  of  these  same  goods  to  Spanish 
America  alone,  beside*  what  went  to  other  places. 
TJum  is  now  done  by  England  directly ;  and  as 
to  the  internal  consumption  of  the  United  S 
although  duBiaiahedi  it  is  not  destroyed;  and  a 
contraband  trade  is  now  organizing,  the  expence 
and  risk  of  which  may  nut  be  much  more  than 
the  duty  saved.  Horn  cluuioels  of  trade  have,  in 
the  meanwhile,  been  opened  to  England,  by  tJn- 
Spanish  revolution,  and  that  of  her  colon; 
even  on  the  continent  of  Kurope,  guarded  as  it 
i*  by  armed  douank 

Tba  light  troops  of  English  commerce  I 
found  certain  secret  passages  aud  entrances  by 
which  they  penetrate  j  and  it  is  curious  to  sec 
how  artfully  their   RUUKcUw  *  arc  conducted. 
good*  are  packed  up  in  small  packages,  fit 
to  bu  carried  bj  hand,  and  made  to  imitate  the 
manufactures  of  the  countries  to  which  Lbi  v  are 
.  even  to  the  very  paper  and  outward  wrap- 
per, and  the  names  of  foreign  manufacturer* 
cd  in  the  goods.     Prudent  pe<  i|  m  to 

!n  mi  more  danger  from  the  acquisition  of 
•  hi  South  America,   than  lion  the 
5 


ijl)  LIVERPOOL AMEBJCAS'  COMMERCE. 


loss  of  the  old  in  North  America.  The  mi* 
of  Adventurer*  has  mistaken  the  state  of  things 
there.  With  liberty,  or  rather  with  civil  war  and 
anarchy,  the  .Spanish  colonists  have  not  yet  ac- 
quired ncwwniiiA;  nnd  it  n  not  prcaumblfl  that 
they  will  consume  article*  to  which  they  were 
iw>t  accustomed*  or  more  than  they  used  to  re- 
ceive from  the  mother  country.  Instead  of 
which,  article*  the  mo&t  foreign  to  the  manner* 
and  climate  have  been  scut  by  whole  cargoes. 
Some  of  the  ships  have  brought  back  their  whole 
cargoes ;  and  those  have  been  the  best  off.  Upon 
the  whole,  however,  the  trade  of  England  has 
hem  extended.  The  proceeds  of  intrnial  indus- 
try have  been  exported  to  an  amount  unusually 
large,  and  foreign  articlei  to  a  less  amount,  per- 
haps, returned.  Some  of  the  adventurers  have 
lost,  but  die  people  at  large,  husbandmen,  labour- 
era,  and  manufacturers,  liave  been  remunerated, 
and  the  publk  revenue  has  been  increased. 

In  ]«07»  (the  year  preceding  the  American 
embargo,)  English  asportations  amounted  to 
thirty-four  millions  sterling,  employing  1,791,000 
tons  of  shipping,  of  which  one-third  were  foreign 
bottoms.  In  1809,  (during  the  operation  of  tin 
embargo  and  non-intercourse,  the  greatest  part  of 
the  year,)  English  cxportations  amounted  to  fitty- 
four  millions  sterling,  and  employed  1,993,000 
torn  of  shipping,  of  which  ooe-third  were  foreign 
bottoms. 


LIVERPOOL — UNITED  STATES. 


Ml 


The  apparent  prosperity  of  the  United  States 
during  this  unexampled  period  oF eighteen  years 
of  war,  itself  at  ]>cac«!  with  the  irhole  world,  has 
Ivanccd  with  giant  strides.  Large  towns  have 
started  up  suddenly ;  the  general  population  of 
the  country,  without  owing  it*  increase  to  this 
i  Imarfance,  has  been  concentrated,  and  great 
realth  has  been  acquired.  Such  ans  inordinary 
cases,  the  sure  foundations  of  social  improve- 
nuntrt  and  refinement*,— luxury  and  leisure, — 
new  wants  and  ambition.  The  process  seems, 
however,  to  have  been  pushed  too  rapidly,  and 
is  likely  to  stop  at  its  first  Mage,— wealth  and 
luxury.  A  field  may  be  over-manured,  and  the 
rank  crop  go  to  decay  bffiwc  it*  maturity.  It 
iy  provable  thai  the  peo|4e  of  the  United 

ites  would  be,  at  this  moment,  more  united  and 
Kaptetabtefe — more  coHghteocd  and  happier,  if 
the  troubles  of  Europe  had  not  opened  CO  them 
a  can  i    i  ;.(   i .-,  disproportionate  to  their 

mean*,  and  excited  against  Great  Britain  an  ex- 
travagant rivalsMp  of  trade,  which  keeps  alive 
the  old  rancour  of  the  revolution,  and  furnishes 
a  pretence  Tor  the  blind  hatred  ofa  cornddi  raUc 
portion  of  the  peopk-,  to  veal  itself  in  exagge- 
rated speeches,  abuse  and  v.olcnc:. 

i  .-  hardly  eretKbk^  and  yet  true,  that,  in 
1807,  at  the  height  of  those  vcxaf  ions  and  arbitra- 
ry restrictions  on  American  trade  by  tlie  British 

VOL.  I.  X 


323 


LIVERPOOL — UNTTED  SPATES. 


orders  in  council!  which  arc  Alleged  as  the  cause 
of  the  embargo  at  the  end  of  the  year,*  the 
United  Stales  were  exporting  to  the  amount  of 
twenty-four  million*  sterling  of  merchnmliftc,  half 
of  which  was  their  own  produce,  employing 
:,00O  tons  of  shipping,  almost  entirely  Ame- 
rican vends.  Hie  exportation*  of  Britain  her- 
atl£  during  that  same  year  (ii*07}ir-oi  that 
power,  absolute  mistress  of  the  seas,— amounted 
only  to  thi|ty-foiir  million*  sterling,  and  the  ton- 
nage of  their  whole  shipping  in  the  merchant 
service  wast  actually  something  lew  than  the  Anic- 
:  :i  i: .  The  net  revenue  of  the  customs  in  l  -07, 
was  in  England  mnc  millions  sterling,  and  in  the 
United  States,  three  millions  and  a  half  sterling, 

an,  i^ms^i).    Wo  fiad«  fchwdma,  the 

United  States  without  a  navy,  without  colonies, 
without  force  or  expenditure,  |*>  and  pre- 

serving an  extent  of  commerce  almost  unexam- 
pled :  more  merchant  vessels  than  Great  Bri- 
tain,— their  exportatiu.-i I  OOmpHrtd  to  the  British 
us  twenty-four  is  to  thirty-four,  and  their  reve- 
nue from  customs  as  three  and  a  half  is  to  nine. 


♦  Ti.  to  .-.MMi.-ii  ntr*  laoed  '«  England  m  Nwro- 

bcr  (807,  and  the  embargo  Jaw  aaatca  in  America  m  Decem- 
ber following.  It  wa*  not  belirreu  at  the  time  that  the  orders 
in  council  had  reached  America  before  the  paaamg  i4"  ilw 
might  his  knows  to  be  in  contemplation. 
"Note  to  Sftorut  £u' 


LIVERPOOL — UNITED  3TATSS. 


S*S 


These  advantages  were  the  consequences  of  the 
war  j  ami  yet,  because  other  consequences  of 
the  war  prevented  some  farther  increase,  they 
chose  to  abandon  the  whole.  If  the  United  States 
had  too  much  commerce,  iw  I  urn  inclined  to 
think,  why  quarrel  for  a  little  mote  ?  If  they  had 
not  enough,  why  abandon  the  whole  ? 

The  merchant*  of  the  OrrJted  States  had  pecu- 
liar ndv&ntages  in  the  India  trade.  The  Spanish 
colonies  furnished  them  with  great  quantities  of 
dollars,  at  twcnty.fivc  per  cent,  less  than  those 
purchased  IB  l-omhmhytheKast  I  ml-. i  Company  $ 
ami  their  exportationi  of  stiver  to  India  ucrcao 
<  oriMderable,  as  to  facilitate  English  returns  from 
that  country.  By  the  treaty  of  commerce  with 
Mr  Jay,  in  1795,  the  Americans  were  allowed, 
in  India,  privilege*  withheld  from  the  subjects 
of  Great  Britain  j  and  in  consequence  of  these, 
they  supplied  the  European  markets,  to  the  ex- 
i -In:  urn  of  the  Company,  to  such  a  tlegTce,  that, 
in  1804,  the  American  tonnage,  in  the  trade  he- 
yond  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  was  nearly  equal 
to  two-thirds  of  the  English.* 


Taking  the  average  of  6«  year*  (1 H09  to  ISOfi.)  tin- 1  faked 
employed  in  (lie  trade  of  China  23,000  tons  annually ; 
to  Calcutta  and  other  part*  of  India,  about  7006;  thcie  30,000 
tons  were  for  direct  voyages,  and  r  !  voyage  to  and 

from  Europe.  The  Ki  '::,:  '"  A*  ladh  tftido appear*, 

from  a  Report  on  Navigation  and  Trod*,  rmbliihod  by  order*  of 


3tt  LIVIBPOIM^ UHlTfto  STATTS. 

In  this  state  of  things  the  belligerent  power** 
chose,  three  or  four  years  ago,  to  deprive  each" 


tta  ship-owners  of  Great  Britain  (1807,  Stockdale,  PwcadiHy, ) 

to  b«  m  follows  :— 

-. 

Tews. 

Sbip*. 

Tom. 

OotwAzd  only. 

1780, 

20 

14,000 

IMi' 

96 

90,000 

S  ships,  20*3  tons. 

17fc% 

29 

n;ooo 

1             864 

1783, 

.IS 

lObOOO 

'             "  •  *■ 

1784, 

27 

20,000 

■  lSB 

1785, 

43 

31,000 

**.* 

1786, 

94 

27,000 

*.,;,» 

1787. 

91 

96,000 

-       >V. 

1788, 

32 

27.000 

■'H' 

1789, 

91 

96JQQQ 

Bi 

MJJOS, 

,  « 

22,000 

1701, 

28 

23,000 

-                     i  ■ 

1792, 

43 

S7,000 

? 

1793, 

46 

40,000 

« ■ 

1794, 

34 

29,000 

1795, 

46 

42,000 

1796, 

46 

37,000 

1797, 

26 

22,000 

21,434  extra,  besidee  r«> 

1798, 

39 

36,000 

gular  ships. 

1799, 

34 

30,000 

1800, 

49 

42,000 

1801, 

39 

35,000 

1802, 

52 

45,000 

1803, 

54 

46,000 

1804, 

50 

48,000 

- 

Therefore  the  British  tonnage,  between  I8C2  and  U06,  may 

be  estimated  at  45,000  tons,  being  only  one  half  more  than  the 

American  tonnage ;  i 

|od  if  voyages  of  American  ships  to  India 

LIVERPOOL—  VMTSO  5TATES- 


3M 


odicr  of  the  American  commerce,  by  mean*  of 
blockades  and  arbitrary  decree*.  1  do  not  know 
exactly  who  began  ;  opinion*  arc  divided  on 
that  point;  or,  which  is  the  most  odious  injus- 
tice^ that  which  is  practiced  oj.ni! 
turnery  and  violence,  or  that  which  is  practised 
according  to  known  form* and  rules,  and  10 
ed  by  outward  decorum  and  diplomatic  polite- 
neat.  'I "he  latter  at  least  *how*  some  respect  for 
moral  principles  and  for  its  victin  d  the 

power  who  docs  you  all  the  harm  he  potsMjr 
can,  is  more  decidedly  your  enemy,  than  the  one 
who  doe*  you  only  a  mail  part  of  the  injury  he 
could  inflict.  It  is  impossible  to  deny  thnt  France, 
by  her  cruize rs  wu\  in  her  port*,  that  is  Co 
in  all  the  porta  oftbc  Continent*  hu  leised  and 
destroyed  all  tJiat  she  could  reach  \  while,  with 
the  exception  of  certain  branches  of  trade  b 
dieted  by  England,  (unjustly  it  may  be)  the  com- 
merce of  America,  every  where  in  contact  with 
her  navy,  or  in  tier  |  not  only  suffered, 

but  protected, — was  immense,  and  tocTCOfibg. 


hf  way  of  Europe  were  Included,  the  dificrpneu  would  bo 
macfa  If*. 

Since  ttriliHfi  I  e  tern  in  an  nrticlr  r,f  the 

<luorfc*iy  RrvAfwfir  1>rcri,brr,  \-\'Z,  pa/ft  2*3,  thai  ftftl 
IntOa  C*mpmy  rrvfioy  115  ***/■•»  .  i  'vflri***  1 1 
ton**   TSert  *utf  4r  tin  trrvr  im  Mr  ■  thff  t'atment. 


m 


LIVERPOOL — UNITKD  STATES. 


Sioee  1801  the  1  bated  State*  have  had  3  philo. 
Mimical  a-liiiiui -?  niiii n j  ;  which  saw  commerce 
in  some  respects  as  I  sec  it,  but  <li<l  more  than  I 
would  do, — that  is  to  say,  it  attempted  to  foi 
the  people  to  adopt  its  opinions,  and,  under 
tence  of  securing  to  trade  a  certain  abstract 
doni  which  Toothing  human  can  attain,  rocriho. 
the  real  and  Milwuntial  freedom  it  enjoyed,  and 
its  very  existence.  To  have  made,  with  the  bcU 
Kgcrcnt  powers,  such  treaties  as  circumstances 
rendered  practicable  loovfig  trade  anil  traders 
to  act  as  their  prudence  and  judgment  might 
suggest,  would  have  been  too  simple  and  vulgar 
a  policy.  Hie  American  government  was  not 
contrnted  with  so  positive  ;i  part ;  they  had  divi» 
sed  a  system,  and  would  establi  peri- 

mrnts.  The  commerce  of  their  own  people  is, 
therefore,  ju*i  now,  under  the  bell  of  the  | 
matic  machine.  They  pump  out  Uic  air,  and  ima- 
gine, that,  by  means  of  some  indirect  channels, 
the  atmosphere  of  Engrail  comoporce  will  be  ex* 
haustcd  at  the  same  time  j — whctl.ei  lliat  will  be. 
the  effect  remains  to  be  seen. 

Such  is  the  opposition  of  interest  and  manners 
between  the  different  sections  of  the  United 
States,  that  the  utmost  forbearance  and  mutual 
trjterattOQ  can  alone,  maintain  their  union.  Witt) 
the  i|uestion  of  the  slavery  of  negroes  w 

jress  twenty  years  ago,  it  gave  rise  to  anima- 


LIVERPOOL — OKITKD  STATES. 


327 


led  debates  in  the  course  of  which,  a  southern 
member  (General  Jackson)  made  use  of  die  fal- 
lowing argument :  "  There  axe,"  he  said,  "  in 
some  of  tbeStates.of  the  Union,  particular! 
Pennsylvania,  a  certain  sect  who  will  not  tight 
ibr  their  country,— will  not  pay  (axes, — refuse 
to  take  an  oath  in  cases  prescribed  l>y  the  laws, 
like  other  citizens : — What  right  have  such  men 
to  enjoy  the  benefit*  of1  a  civil  association,  to  the 
maintenance  aud  protection  of  which  they  de- 
cline contributing,  and  with  the  regulations  of 
which  tlK-y  refuse  to  comply  ?  W«  knew,  lw>w- 
ever,  that  such  men  existed  among  you  when  we 
agreed  to  the  union,  as  you  knew  we  had  slaves. 
Allow  us  our  negroes,  and  wc  will  allow  y\ 
your  <j. inkers."  The  gallery  *n*  in  dial  monv 
principally  filled  by  persons  of  that  sect—zealous 
abolitionists. 

Tiie  revolutionary  war,  which  separated  the 
Knglish  colonics  from  England,  created  a  strong 
artiality  in  favour  of  the  French,  to  whom,  in- 
,  they  were  in  a  great  degree  indebted  for 
their  independence.  The  sentiment  of  gratitude, 
from  which  that  partiality  sprung,  was  just  and 
uurahle  in  it-self;   but,  by  an  iisMuriatioii,  as 
absurd  as  it  was  natural,  it  has  united,  ever 
iiiec,  inseparably,  the  idea  of  liberty  with  that 
f  France  in  these  republican  beads  :  while  Kng- 
and  and  despotism  formed  another  association* 


m 


L'.V£Cr0Ol I'XITLD  STATES. 


irties,  which  took,  at  the  ui 
ul  the  states  in  17&9.  the  name*  of  federalist • 
AOti  i'Ste,  sincere  and  pure  as  then*  obj< 

it  be.  a**un>cd  the  colour*  of  the  two  great 
rital  powers;  and  there  has  been,  undoMbb 

■nch  and  an  linglish  jwirty.  TI 
Americans  any  ft.iv  that  England  and  France  arc 
tor  them  mere  abstract  watch-words,  like  St  I 
and  St  George.     But  there  b  virtue  in  nami 

it  cannot  be  denied  that  one  half  of  the  in- 
habitants  at  the?  United  Stales  are  in  the  habit  of 
approving  whatever  France  does,  while  the  other 
does  as  much  for  J  — not  exactly  half, 

however,  for  the  French  parry  is  much  the  most 
i  ■nerOSS.  The  utlicr  lias  on  iLs  rude  a  drxrnlnl 
najoxtty  of  the  talents,  the  wealth,*  and  the  »«*- 
tiiity  of  the  country  ;  from  all  appearances  £ 
might  say  of  the  morality  also,  if  I  was  not  aware 
that  much  may  he  placed  to  the  account  of  prin- 
ciples which  is  tl  nation*  \  very  re* 
maikable  ci              ;;ce  itf.  tlfcat  most  of  the  vctc- 


*  TiWnt*  arc  ;  to  b*  found  in  opposition  to  the  go- 

t,fo]  ulj  M  »dl  a«  hi  Auwricii,  brcawvil  11  Um 

■    ■  i-  ;  hut  ««llh  in  Ka^liinil  i*  nrraytrf  on  the  I 

i  which  protects  h.    In  America,  k  fcal 

4fnpMcmmcn\  itopenuVi'  tooUStud*,  natunlly jfaloiw 

milu  |  merits,  seeks  the  protcc- 

Jitnu  in  the  opposition. 


LIVERPOOL UNITED  ST.S 


Ml 


•  ar.«  who  bore  arms  again**  England  during  the 
resolution,  arc  now  of  the  party  I  call  Kngtbdi. 
Washington  himself,  that  model  ofpltriottjj  whom 
aU  parties  unite,  sine  salty  in  comidering 

as  eminently  pure  and  wise,  was  openly  denoun- 
ced l>y  the  ftreodl  party  durinp  his  ii' 

It  is  now  nine  year*  since  the  reins  of  tin- 
United  States'  government  fell  from  tlie  weak 
hands  of  the  last  federalist  who  can  ever  have  any 
chance  of  holding  them  till  a  separation  takes 
place.  The  universality  of  suffrage  secures  a  de- 
cided preponderance  to  St  Denis ;  and  ail  can- 
didates tor  power,  from  the  lughcst  to  the  low- 
est, must  bow  to  him,  and  never  to  8t  <ieorgc 
Thc  \menran  government  has  done  so  accord- 
ingly since  1801.  Either  from  choice,  or  from 
the  necessity  of  piercing  the  multitude,  it*  mea- 
sure* have  been  directed  by  a  visible  partiality  in 
favour  of  St  Denis  :— 


fovninli  Anglnn  rtnt  ilarr    ..■  fSrSO 
Jc  nc  salt  qaoi  dc  dur  ct  d'insuloire : 
On  n'ynt  toujour*  mi  pm  i!r  fQfl  part, 
Eq  vain  notrc  «me  c*t  <Um  le  p*r*dii ; 
Tout  n*r«t  pax  pur,  ct  J 'Accent  dn  province 
Nc  ic  pcrd  point  ra^rac  it  la  cour  <lu  prince. 


rln  n  !'u;e  natural  that  StOeOfge  should  feel 
some  irritation,  and  wc  see  him  accordingly  ob- 


390 


UVEaroot — csited  statj  -. 


stinatcly  bent  oo  points  of  form,  rather  than  of 
substance  ;  acting  from  dl  temper  mid  pride,  ra- 
thnn  mi  sound  principles  of  policy.  St  iJeniq, 
who  observes  ail  this,  blown  up  the  coals  between 
the  two  angry  governments,  who  appear  to  mc 
to  be  doing  exactly  what  be  would  w»h,  and  to 
enter,  of  themselves,  into  his  news,  of  whirl 
however,  he  makes  no  secret ;  viz.  to  di 
maritime  commerce,  which  he  cannot  enjoy, 
to  deprive  St  George  of  what  is  universally  con- 
sidered as  the  great  foundation  of  his  power.  If 
England  did  not  interdict  the  French  ports  to 
America,  Franco  herself  would  have  done  so. 
There  sceracti,  therefore,  to  lie  no  necessity  foe 
Uic  former  to  take  upon  itself  the  odium  of  the 
measure.  England  may  very  probably  begiu  to 
see,  in  the  plowing  commerce  of  America,  the 
foundation  of  a  great  naval  power,  to  which  her 
obnoxious  restrictions  might  be  intended  as  a 
check.  This  danger,  however,  appears  to 
far  distant.  Rich  and  populous  as  the  United 
.Stales  arc  destined  to  be,  in  an  extraordinary 
degree,  their  power  will  never  be  in  any  tin 
lion.  The  American  states  are  bound,  not  uni- 
ted, by  the  federal  government,— -bound  like  dif- 
ferent sets  of  horses  to  the  Mine  car,  one  before 
and  the  other  behind.  The  charioteer,  w- 
placed  between  them,  is  without  either  whip  or 
reins,  and  can  only  reason  with  his  horses,  and 


LIVERPOOL UHITED  STATES. 


351 


call  to  them  ;  at  lus  voice  tbey  never  fail  to  ex- 
ert tlieir  strength  in  opposite  directions — some- 
timed  it  is  one  side  which  gcU  the  better — some- 
times the  other ;  but  it  is  easy  to  perceive  that 
the  car  cannot  proceed  very  far.    Nwuld  it  hap- 
pen to  be  at  last  torn  asunder,  one  set  of  horses 
and  a  pair  of  wheels  drawing  one  way,  and  an- 
other the  contrary  way,  there  might  indeed  be 
something  more  cifcctual  done ;  hut,  either  bound 
together,  or  at  liberty,  the  United  States  will 
ever  feci  an  aversion  to  taxes ; — they  will  not 
have  a  sufficient  number  of  destitute  individuals 
to  iill  the  ranks  of  their  army,  or  to  man  their 
iiuv,  ,  Off  a  government  strung  enough  to  make 
the  people  fight  and  pay.     Every  new  gtfl 
tion  there  come*  into  life  to  enjoy  it,— to  in- 
crease and  multiply,  in  peace  and  obscurity,  in 
abundance  and  security* — and  leave,  at  the.  rail 
of  nature  alone,  a  lite  of  content,  undisturbed 
by  cither  raptures  or  torments,  exposed  to 
all  lift  <■,  as  well  ns  spent  without  much  glory. 
It  is  impossible  to  become  acquainted  willi  tlw? 
interior  of  families  in  England  without  discovcr- 
■  very  dirTcicnt  state  of  things.     The  army, 
the  navy,  the  East  and  West  lndic«,  Cal 
and  consume  the  rising  generation  as  fast  as  it 
attains  to  manhood.  The  necessity  of  acquiring, 
not  merely  the  real  necessaries  ami  comforts  of 


:. ... 


I  L\  VHPOOI. — 


lite,  Imt  die  means  of  liviog  in  style,— a  certain 
inveterate  national  habit  of  luxury,  inexorable 
vanity  in  short,  answer,  in  England,  the  sami 
purpose  as  the  conscription  in  Franoe ;  and  the 
fondest  mother,  thinkt  ai  little  of  resisting  the 
one  as  the  other-  TW  na\  principle  of  ac- 

tivity coi  ■  the  strength  of  England.   Wh< 

ther  it  secures  private  ha|'|>n  is  not  so  certain. 
Placed  as  England  is,  she  must  be  great  and  glo- 
,  or  perish.  The  people  of  the  United  State* 
may  be  weak  and  happy  with  impunity,  and  re» 
i  II,  iu  t;>iie  of  themselves  for  a  century  to 
come. 

One  of  the  chief  complaints  which  the  United 
States  make  against  Great  Britain  is,  tiie  riirl 
viler  assumes  of  taking  its  nili  i  \xr 

i  find  them, — or  rather  the  manner  of  exer- 
cising that  right.    Her  ibipa  of  war  search  Ame- 
rican vessel*  at  sea,  and  take  away  forcibly 
man  who  cannot  prove,  by  a  certain  document 
cakd  a  i  \ctoi  that  be  is  an  Ai         i  .  or 

whoi'  ^nomy  and  language  it  at  variance 

with  thJ»  same  protection.— a  mode  of  proceed- 
ing humiliating  and  odious,  and  which  leads  to 
oUktaable  consequence  of  sometimes  preas* 
in   American   instead  of  an   Englishman, 
.tever  may  be  the  notural  atul  moral  right 
.n  individual  to  change  his  country,  or  the 


i 


LIVERPOOL — C.VfTED   STATES. 


S53 


any  government  may  have  to  protect  a  naturali- 
acd  citizen,  there  can  be  no  obligation  on  the 
pari  of  that  government  to  giant  natural 
if,  by  so  doing,  it  endangers  its  peace  with  other 
powers.  'Hie  British  government,  setting  aside 
ici  rights,  but  relying  on  a  principle  of  pub- 
lic law  a*- knowledge!  m  Europe,  says,  that  an 
Englishman  is  always  an  Englishman.  Tin1  po- 
liticaJ  existence  of  England  depends,  in  a  great 

degree,  on  her  oavy }  and  if  the  United  States 

not  only  favoured  the  desertion  ofhei 

.  but  pretend  to  screen  them  at  sea  under 
their  flag,  they  arc  clearly  in  the  wrong,  and 
need  not  complain  of  any  violence  on  the  part 
of  their  adversary.  On  die  other  hand,  if  Eng- 
land refuses  to  listen  to  arrangements,  which,  at 
the  fame  time  that  her  abstract  right  10  her  na- 
tives should  be  acknowledged,  would  regulate 
thcpracti  i  |    I  odd  refine  to  nbai 

not  the  right  of  search  and  challenge  ol  suspect- 
ed seamen,  but  the  right  of  impressment  at  sea, 
or  to  subject  the  taking  any  seamen  o«t  of  an 
American  ship  to  a  legal,  instead  of  an  arbitrary 
investigation,  Kngland,  1  should  then  »y,  take* 
advantage  of  her  .superior  strength  ;  and  a*  snuu 
as  the  United  States  can,  with  any  chance  of 
•tfcces,  oppose  force  to  force,  they  will,  and 
ought  so  to  do.  The  pressing  a  natural  born 
American  in  any  case,  but  particularly  out  of 


»4 


LIVERIHKU — tV'.IED  STATUS. 


am  American  siiip,  if  not  promptly  disavowed, 
and  amply  redressed,  is  an  enormity  not  to  be 

endured. 

Had  the  government  of  the  United  State*  kept 
within   these  bounds,  the  dispute  would   lave 
been  settled  long  since  ;  but  thrv  wished  to  esta- 
blish the  same  nile  for  natural-born  Americans 
and  naturalized  ones,  naturalized  by  means  of 
laws  vttdh  have  changed  with  ever)  turn  of  po- 
lities.    It  is  not  Mill-,  that  nearly  one  half  of 
the  crew*  of  American  ships  sailing  from  south- 
cm  ports,  beginning  at  NYw  York,  were  compo- 
sed ot  British neaiiK'u.   Kvtiy  individual  of  them, 
fiver,  mwt  probably  Jud  protections;  one* 
half  of  which  were  consequently  false:  how  could 
it  be  expected  tliat  such  documents  as  these 
1  be  respected  ?  and  yet,  in  point  of  fact, 
fan  comparatively  of tueae  English  seamen 
ressed, — not,  I  am  persuaded,  so  much 
as  one  out  of.an  hundred  ;  •  but  then  a  few  real 
Anericnevm  impressed  along  with  tiiem;  and 
the  utmost  use  was  made  of  the  latter  cases,  when. 


*  'lliv  writer  of  dm  Joumii  lis*  owned  twenty.fmrr  Ameri- 
can rtmtit  during  iliv  «»ur h'  of' tliii  war : — that  it  lo  iay,  mice 
17W,  forming  together  moie  than  livr  Oiounnd  turn,  ami  had 
uiora  ttii[iri**B?il  uut  of  ihcae  tcmcU  during  all  chat 
■pace  of  lima,  although  a  grtut  number  of  them  tore  undoulit* 
rdly  Britwktora. 


OBMSIURK— kKNOlL. 


93& 


ever  liicy  occurred,  lo  inilame  die  minds  of  the 
pic. 
Altbough  the  principle  3hould  be  admitted 
rora/Jgr,  of  employing  or  protecting  native 
men  only,  difficulties  would  undoubtedly  re- 
H  to  the  mode  of  ascertaining  that  nativi- 
ty, the  kind  of  document  to  be  given  ;  and  hour 
to  prevent  fraudulent  substitutions  of  this  docu- 
I  or  piotcctiaDf  from  one  individual  to  an- 
othflTi  Something  like  the  Preach  cta*sc/toi  n  ■ 
ring  of  sailor*  in  their  native  parishes  might 
be  adopted.  Heavy  penalties  would  go  a  great 
way  in  detecting  fraud*;  and  the  tnmfieFofp* 
pm  from  POB  individual  to  another,  might  lie  ef- 
fectually prevented*  by  tracing  the  pi  the 
iiJividual  on  the  margin  of  his  protection, — 
which  might  be  done  by  means  of  the  panto* 
graph,  in  two  minutes.  A  liberal  and  dispassi- 
(mate  spirit  is  what  t-  ailing  to  bring  this 
dispute  to  a  satisfactory  termination. 

August  2.— We  slept  yesterday  at  Ormskirk, 
thirteen  mile*  from  I.ivcqmol,  and  did  not  lose 
by  the  clnnge.  The  local  militia  was  assembled, 
and  looked  full  as  well  as  troops  of  the  line,  per- 
forming  their  exercise  with  great  precision ;  they 
ere  not  however  very  fine  men.  The  females 
of  tliis  part  &f  the  country  (Lancashire)  seem 
gifted  with  a  larger  share  of  beauty  than  the 


3*8 


COTTAGES CANALS. 


We  meet  with  many  pretty  faces  and 
fine  shape*.     TM  c  arc  at  Kendal ;  69 

miles  to-day  through  a  i  y.     Not 

the  least  appearance  of  poverty  unvnhere.    The 
people  at  work  in  the  fields,  making  haj 
decently  clothed.  T1»c  cottages,  though  meanly 
tr.it!  tt  mostly  with  mud,  :m:l  thatched,  have  good 
casements;  white-washed  inside;  roses  and  ho. 

DcUe  against  the  wall,  and  even  jcssaiv 
ami  geraniums.     T.  ly  indicates  a  gi 

degree  of  ease  and  comfort  among  the  lower 
ranks.  Wt  passed,  in  the  course  of  the  day, 
immense  fields  of  potatoes;  the  blossoms  of 
some  fields  all  purple,  and  others  ail  white. 
Wheat  seems  cultivated  on  a  smaller  scale.  In* 
deed  I  have  not  seen  anywhere,  in  England, 
those  boundless  g  corn,  so  com* 

mon  in  the  north  of  France.  There  is,  on  the 
other  hand,  much  more  Land  in  meadows.  Jud- 
ging by  their  fields,  they  should  consume  more 
meat  than  bread  in  this  country. 

We  have  crossed  many  canals  In  daj ,  or  pott- 
haps  the  same  several  time*  ova,  on  very  :* 
stone  bridges  of  a  single  arch.     These  ouiafc 
•a  mil  round  hills,  following  levels,  like  Bat 

i  us,  and  arc  not  at  all  offensive,  in  a  pictu- 
resque light,  i  y  happen  some- 
times to  travel  aide  by  side  with  a  real  river.     It 

10 


CA&TALS—  LANCASTUU 


337 


not  more  than  half  a  century  since  canals  were 

ly  introduced  in  England,  unci  they  arc 

icipally  due  to  the  cntcrprizing  spirit  of  tbe 

kc  of  Bridgcwatcr  (an  appropriate  name), 

;ui  Jed  by  a  celebrated  engineer.  He  constructed, 

Liverpool,  a  canal,  Uaung  his  name,  which 

over  a  navigable  river  by  mean*  of  a  xcry 

ligh  aqueduct.     Canals  intersect  tbe  country, 

in  every  direction,  from  north  to  south,  and 

iro  cast  to  west,  in  so  curious  a  manner,  that, 

to  give  an  ilea  of  it,  T  annex  lint:  n  map  of  ca- 

taken  from  a  new  publication  (Mi  Oddy's,) 

object  of  which  is  to  recommend  some  new 

tactions,  marked  with' red  in  the  map.  Scotland, 

fhich  is  also  well  provided  with  canals,  Ls  not 

iricIuiU-d  m  this  Uttp.      Tl  0  I   ■'  .'  il  of  a  ton  »it * 

cool,  of  36  bushels,  i«  about  two-pcocc  pes  mile, 
and  so  in  proportion  for  other  things 
from  NorfuJ!  is  a  corn  country,  to  Liver- 

pool,  which  is  not,  oottl  for  carriage  about  9a.  fid. 
tfae<|<:  ofesgfal  bushels;  while  by  sea  it  would 

33s,  3d.,  and  without  insurance  Ms.    The 
II  yields  to  the  stock-holdcrs  generally  i 
»r  eight  per  cent.,  and  they  are  restricted  to  a 
:ertain  maximum  of  proii 


*  Frucc  any  bomt  of  bimag  0>c  fir»t,  and,  1  belie**,  (hi' 
matt  migoifiorni  and  boldctt  cutul  In  Europe. — the  canal  oi 
LongunJoc,  begun  by  Henry  tbe  Great,  and  Solshad  br  Lo«ii» 
VOL,  1.  v 


»s 


!  iNCABTKU—  nusoy, 


The  town  of  T^ncarfer  was  in  our  way,  ami, 
contrary  to  the  custom  of  smaJl  towns,  it  U  good 
looking  m>d  well  built,  of  eflrjw  stone, 

veined  like  marble.  The  old  castle  baa  been 
turned  into  a  prison  and  raurt-bousejthcarniiige- 
nieiif  on  the  plan  of  Chester,  and  owin/ 

likewise  to  live  active  humanity  of  Howard  ; 
is  even  better  than  the  one  at  Chester,  a*  tin 
U  more  room.  The  number  of  prisoners,  how- 
,  we  were  sorry  to  sec  so  much  greater,  cri- 
minals a*  well  as  debtor*.    The  jailor  said  he  had 


ihc  Gfrat,   uniting  tbc  ocean  to  the  MoJifcrrjm-mi,  200  miles 
Sataegth,  and  po**lnf.  owr  *  height  a|  QQ  f.-rt,  which  U 

double  tl«  titration  of  any  ceool  in  England.  Tho  UniicJ 
State*  mi  not  without  communication!  of  that  tort.  Ttw  most 
t<n»idcrabl«  it  the  can*)  which  unite*  llic  Mtntrnsxk  met  fc> 
tho  port  of  Boston  .  it  descends  28  fed  in  lix  rails,  by  moans 
e  l»ci.i,  :iml  |07  feet  in  22  miles,  by  10  locks,  each  SO 
feel  \onf>  *nd  IS  ■nuV,  >  :<lly  buifl  raataof  ft  wa»  fou- 
I'Bia;  to  cut,  id  tomr  plora,  20  feel  deep  through  solid  rooks, 
to  hJl  up  vjtjjct,  and  viMiwtruct  a<|ucduvt»  osqt  rivvr*;  gn*  at 
Uicm  across  ihr  Slm-shirc,  &0  fa :  in  length,  and  Xf  beet  high. 
TJia  vanal,  only  12  ftei  nala,  and  S$  feet  deep,  is  nrrh-atod 
by  boats  eonstruci-.il  mi  puipoit,  II  fret  «nic,  and  75  fie© t 
long,  earning  -4  u*r*  A  raft,  ona  railo  in  length,  containing 
#00  cons  of  timber,  Is  dm*»  by  a  pnir  of  oxen,  at  the  rate  of 

one  mile  hi.  h ,     This  canal  «.00  dollars.— Qficial 

Report  of  Mr  Gallatin  t<>  Congmt,  1808. 

The  celebrated  royal  emul  of  Chins,  from  PeVin  to  Canton, 
»*  8*8  aaiaa  to  istsgth,  60  sort  wMr,  and  aina  fort  deop,  and 
tra*tr»t«  •even}  large  nreo  on  immense  aqueducts. 


LANCASTER — PA  [SOX. 


339 


llAte  bk  lock  ami  key  debtor*  from  I«.4£,O0O 
(a<leliin|iKiit,  collector  of  the  customs,)  to  m 
shillings.     Debtors  for  sunn  lew  than  L.10,  wc 
were  told,  are  let  out  without  co^t,  niter  aj  many 
days  detention  as  there  are  shillings  in  the  sum 
they  owe  ;  llie  creditor  is  obliged  to  pay  for  i 
maintenance.  There  are  teu  or  twelve  crimi 
executed  every  year,  and  a  greater  number  trans- 
ported to  Botany  Bay,  who  do  not  consider  N  01 
any  punishment  at  all.     Some  are  kept  here  at 
hard  labour,  something  on  the  plan  of  our  p 
tcntiary  prisons  in  America.    Tfic  jailor  did  not 
seen  to  believe  in  the  efficacy  of  this  philanthro- 
picpmii.-;!  ini'iit.    It  does  im>i  i  :.il  last  lung 

e  nough  to  operate  a  total  change  oi  habits,  iwr 
is  it  fitted  for  example.  What  is  to  be  done  with 
all  these  poor  wretches  ?  "  On  est  bicn  cmbar- 
raE-se"  defl  mediAiu — dans  cc  inomJc  et  dans 
I*— litre.**  This  prison  was  perfectly  clean  in 
part,  to  the  very  dungeons ; — thbagai 
ft  nit  of  Howard's  labours,    lite  view  from 

oho  u*  Gaunt'*  Tower  extends  over  a  bleak 
utry,  all  the  trees  of  which  arc  bent  to  the 

ound  by  the  air  of  the  sea,  and  over  the  Cart- 
Sand*,  forming  a  dangerotw  road,  where  tra- 
veller* may  be  overtaken  by  die  tide,  and  which 

c  propose  to  avoid 

The  cattle  vre  saw  in  Wales  were  all  black  and 
umall,  here  all  white,  or  nearly  white,  very  large. 


340 


AMBLESIDE — WINDEEMEIii:. 


ami  their  horns  of  unreasonable  length  and  fan- 
tastic shape,  turning  down  under  tin-  or  ly- 
ing bock  w  a : 


muted  into  the  flesh,  and  each 


ways,  of  no  use  to  the  animal  as  a  de- 
fence, and  quite  a  deformity  ; — the  hornier  cat- 
tle of  Not  folk  are  liw  offensive. 

The  common  people  here,  an  well  a*  ftcry- 
when-  KQ  r.uglund,  are  very  willing  to  an 
questions  to  the  best  of  their  abilities,  but  they 
seem  to  know  leas  beyond  their  immediate  call. 
ing  than  the  same  classes  in  America  ; — the  far- 
mer  knows  nothing  beyond  the  plough,— the 
shopman  out  of  his  trade, — and  (lie  po&t-bov 
that  part  *>f  tlic  read  to  the  next  stage. 
Kendal  is  i  l  by  hills,  Willi  beautiful  vat 

ctween. 

Aug.  5. — Ambleside.  We  arrived  here  the  3d, 
in  the  morning,  and  discovered  the  lake  of  Win- 
dermere from  the  height  of  the  Bourn    ;,  i 
overlooks  it  about  iu  middle*  The  first 
thcr  disappointed  us  ;  it  had  the  appearance  of 
on'  of  o  American  riven, — ami  we  had 

expected  something  better.  The  lake  »  not 
much  more  than  a  mile  wide,  while  the  length  U 
twdve ;  its  surface,  glassy  and  blue,  reflected  lite 
opposite  shore,  of  a  moderate  height,  and  shaded 
wiili  coppice  only.  The  extremity  ofthe  lake,  on 
our  left,  appeared  flat  and  tame ;  but  its  head, 
on  our  right,  was  crowned  with  bold  mountains  of 


WINDEJlilCRE — L'UWATXR. 


an  abrupt  outline,  and  one  of  them  bordering  on 
the  grotesque.  Descending  from  the  height  we 
proceeded  to  the  right  along  the  margin  of  the 
e  tor  dilcS] — its  gentle  wave*  elcar 

1  pure  like  oryatali  fell  in  meant*)  Mm  on  a 
beach  of  fine  sand ;  the  narrow  winding  road 
was  quite  overshadowed  with  trees, — a  woody  hiU 
on  the  right,  ami  the  lake  on  the  left,  the  whole 
y.  We  left  this  with  regret  to  reach  Amble- 
e,  which  is  some  distance  from  the  lake. 
oking  from  thence  towards  the  lake,  you  find 
divested  of  that  beautiful  fane  of  hills  dc- 
.-  ;rrih.:d  before  ;  and  it  t*  certainly  seen  to  moat 
vantage  from  Bowncssj  but  the  mountains 
cm  selves,  at  the  foot  of  which  we  are  arrived, 
isc  many,  beautie*,  and  deserve  to  be  exa- 
ied  at  leisure.  'live  season  advancing,  we  pro- 
pose continuing  our  progress  to  tlse  north,  and, 
after  visiting  Scotland,  return  to  spend  the  re* 
mainder  of  the  autumn  here,  where  we  are  invi- 
by  fricivkliin,  as  well  as  by  the  attractions 
the  sccuen . 

Aug.  9. — Hawick.    Wc  left  Ambleside  yes- 
terday morning,  with  four  horses,  for  a  stage 
of  tweoty.foux  miles,  the  first  part  of  which  is 
tircly  among  hills.     For  five  miles  we  crept 
slowly  a  very  steep  ascent.    Windermere  and 
banks  appeared  below  like  a  mere  cup  of 
rater  j  other  bright  specks  shone  among  tlic 

n 


ma 


_ 


ULSVTATEE— PEKHTTH— CARLISLE 


dark  green  of  the  riMjuntshWKm  landscape;  and 
at  thirty  mill  net,  theaaiukofCa/tnie]  and 

the  Irish  Sea  skirted  the  horizon.     Near  u 
was  bare  and  desolate,  and  although  wc  might 
l*  1 500  or  2000  feet  above  Ambleside,  the  moun- 
tain rose  much  higher.     A  descent,  as  rapid  as 
the  ascent,    bnwght  us  to  Pattcrdalc   (eleven 

i,  at  the  In  ill  of  Ulswatcr.     This  is 
ug  end  from  which  we  sec  it,  but  inicndin) 
to  return  the  *aroe  way,  we  shall  lose  nothiri] 
Tfrisnde  of  the  mountain*,  info  the  bosom 

Fi  Ultvater  penetrates,  ii  bolder,  and  pi 
sents  finer  forms  than  the  Windermere  side. 

a  riceteJi  of  Eagfc  Cr*g.    The  rest  of  the 
stage,  to  Penrith.  I       al«tm;  the  margin  of  the 

ride  of  the  lake, — it*  clear  water  and  |»eb- 
ihorc  on  one  side  of  the  raid,  and  a  fine  wt 
of  oM  oaks  on  the  other  ,  the  opposite  bank- 
naked   rock,    without    zny  trc  behind 

langing  branches  of  the 
wood,  the  dark  recess  of  mountains  wc  had  ji 
left,  of  a  uniform  leaden  bhte     As  wc  pr< 
ed,  the  hanks  on  both  sides  became  lower 

r, — anil,  at  last,  hardly  even  pretty.  'I7ic 
woods,  which  contribute  so  much  to  the  Inanity 
of  Ulswatcr,  owe  their  preservation  to  the  Duki 
of  Norfolk,  who  is  proprietor,  and  has  erected 

re,  in  the  castellated  Gothic  style,  in  a 
very  fine  situation.    The  banks  of  Windcrmci 


NUITI1 CARL 


m; 


anrl,  I  an.  told,  ot  other  lakes,  are  stripped  every 
fourteen  ;,  Ihfiif  grovug  honours,  10  ;nake 

blooms  and  charcoal ! 

Penrith  i*  a  tolerably  good-looking  little  town  ; 
Most  oi'  the  houses  had  boxes  of  reseda  in  their 
window*,  and  our  inn  was  quite  perfumed  with 
4€  Uir  »'6  weed."    Soon  aUcr  leaving 

'euriih  for  Carlisle,  and  from  the  uj;>  of  a  i 
rratc  hill,  wc  lad  an  extensive  view  of  the 
hoi  i  on nuins  wc  had  passed  in  the 

morning,  and  even  saw,  west  of  them,  Helveliyu, 
more  west,  the  top  of  Skiddaw,  behind  Sad- 
ick.     All  these  uui  appeared  sunk 

bind  live  well-defined  horizon  of  the  rich  plain 
iiinJaig  auav  before  us. 

slept  at  merry  Carlisle  (dull  and  ugly 
ugh),  4*2  miles  >  and  today,  by  Longtown 
ikl  Langholm,  to  Hawick,  44  mile*.    About  IS 
miles  north  of  Carlisle,  our  pOCt-boj  shewed  us 
a  tree  which  divide*  the  two  kingdoms  ;  a  rioiui- 
i.ul  division,  which  brings  to  mind  forcibly  the 
unhappy  times,  *hen  this  very  frontier  wan  a  de- 
tailed ilebntcabJc  lands,  open  to  the  rcci* 
.  depredations  ol   lawlcw  borderers,  ami 
little  more  than  one  hundred  years 
r  road  lay  beautifully  along  tint  hanks  of  the 
,  iii«   Teviot,  and  several  other  romantic  lit- 
e  rivers,  dashing  along  their  rocky  Ikm Is.   Pass- 
ing the  E*k,  orcr  C  brwige  of  two 


34+ 


iCOTLAWD— SCEIf&flV. 


arches  the  middle  pier  bold  J.  J  on  a  rock, 

wc  were  struck  wiili  ihc  beauties  of  thi 

Ivanging  wood  and  smooth  lawn  on  tbc  other 
— too  natural  to  he  *ntirvl\  utnrc  Thcar- 
tibcial  composition  of  gaidem  ii.    England,  as 
ofiia  gofsnmnd  abridfatooly  the  liberty 
rig  harm.     A  pretty  cottage  was  just  wen 
among  the  trees  with  a  neat  path  leading  to  it. 
Wc  alighted,  and  followed  the  path  to  a  small 
ling  of  stones  c  ith  thatch,  and  were 

looking  through  the  casemcnU  at  the  rural  fur- 
niture ta  ben  a  little  Scotch  girl  came  run* 
niog  ban  with  tfc  in  her  hand,  and 
informed  u*  ihat  tfa  i.'u*  Duke  of  Bac- 
h's Ivor,  (bower,)  and  that  hex  mother  had 
the  care  The  inside  was  covered, 
walls  ceiling,  i  hairs,  and  Gofa,  with  moss,  inge- 
niously »ug;  the 
: aides  and  frames  of  scat*  were  of  rough  sticks 
and  root*  ;  and  an  adjoining  close!  Bed* 
set  of  coma  root  salt-cellars, 
&&  :  pretty  toys  foj 

Kapof  luxury,  to  play  villi,  and  maJcebeiiero be- 
ing poor !   The  water  or'  the  Esk,  though 
clear,  is  deeply  I  ith  brown,  like  cc;; 

Wc  passed  this  a/kernoun  a  tract  of  country 

.11  I-  It  is  a  succession 
of  steep  bilk,  with  intervening  vallic*,  all  uni- 
fonuly  corcred  with  a  fine  green  i  tooth, 


SCOTLAND— COTTA0W. 


MS 


and  oabrokm  by  »  single  true,  bush,  weed,  or 
atone;  ll  igtng  tdung  tin-     <!'     r  if  tin:  ac- 

tivities, and  here  and  there  a  shepherd-hoy 
wrapped  up  in  hi*  plaid  ^— nothing  to  interrupt 
the  sameness  and  stillness,  but  the  little  stream 

lug  along  each  valley,  over  a  bed  of  round 
pebbles.     The  road  following  these  streams  was 
singularly  good  and  level ;  ami,  upon  tin  *|. 
there  was  much  simple  grandeur  and  beauty  in 
the  scene.     As  the  hills  became  lower,  and  the 
values  v»  iilcr,  fields  and  meadows,  and  exten 
plantations  of  firs  awl  larches  succeeded,  all  very 
flourishing, — but  the  cottages  miserably  il 
and  a  sad  contrast  to  those  of  Wales,  so  white 
and  so  neat,  and  adorned  with  flowers.     The 
Scotch  arc  said  to  bi  illustrious  and  more 

thrifty  than  the  Webb.  They  cannot  affiml  lei. 
sure,  1  suppose,  to  be  comfortable,  and  certainly 
do  not  ruin  themselves  by  luxun.  =  f  TiMren,in 
health  and  in  rags,  v.  and  di 

swarm  on  the  dung-luib  at  each  door.  An  old 
barrel  Muck  through  the  thatch  serve*  I 

iit\ .  The  stable  and  dwcUing  are  under  the 
same  roof;  one  door  serves  for  both, — and  the 
dark  rtmnatgi  from  the  lump  of  dungt  and  the 
heap  of  peat,  piled  up  against  the  Iu.mi.m-, 
under  the  floor,  and  some  upon  it.    The  climate 

:  be  healthy  indeed,  where  all  tlri*  does  not 


3*6*       SCOTLAND — CARTS — OHEJ* 8KI.KIRK. 


i  infection.     The  fclds  of  potatoes  am! 
scon  in  the  best  stair,  **d  tbc  people  arc  waking 
hay  everywhere. 

We  meet  with  string*  of  light  one-bone  carls', 
driven  by  only  one  man,— a  much  belter  conui- 

r  than  the  English  heavy  waggons.     The 
men  along  tbo  mails  liavc  generally  the  p 
thrown  acton  their  shoulder,  and  over  one  arm. 
Some  wear  it  like  a  Spanish  cloak,  or  an  antiqu*-. 
drapery,  and  with  their  short  petticrat  tod  na- 

knees,  might  he  mistaken  for  Roman      >l 
dicrs,  if  the  vulgar  contrivance  of  hat  and  shoes 

not  betray  the  northern  barbarian.  The  fe- 
males ha vi-  tJ  rcninies  more  classical,  for 
ubey  go  barefooted  and  bareheaded,  end  <ml; 
tail  by  the  middle,  covered  with  vile  stiff  stays 
and  petticoats.  We  see  uVm  it  the  fords  of 
their  little  brook  "ting,  \csy  innocently  I 
believe,  higher  than  the  km  iwlful  of  the 
eye  of  travellers. 

August  10. — Edinburgh,  by  Selkirk,  47  mil 
Wc  have  crowed  to-day  the  Tweed,  the  Ettricl 
and  the  Yairow,  the  names  of  which  sound  poe- 
tical in  our  cais.     There  is  a  l>  spot  in 

fCxrky  and  wild,  in  die  uiuhli 
which  a  Mr  Pringle  has  spread  his  lawn,  and 
ioum  by  the  side  of  the  tirst-men- 

d  river.     Walter  Scott  live*  in  that  neigh- 
bourhood.    After  this  we  came  to  an  extern 


SDimWUOH— BRIDGES. 


3*1 


tract  of  uncultivated  moor,  to  appearance  fit  for 
cultivation  ;  Here  nn<l  there  plantations  of  firs, 
larches  and  birch,  flourishing,  but  not  beautiful, 
bcinp  square  compact  hod  in,  protected  Wrl 
Rtone  wail  5— ther  are  like  lilnrl;  patches  on  the 
back  ami  shoulder*  of  the  mountain*.  About  ten 
or  t'  es  from  Edinburgh  we  began  to  dis- 

cover son  reived  to  lie  the  c 

on  an  insulated  rock.  A  beautiful  plain  lay  be- 
ns, varied  with  inrcjualhies,  groves  of  tree* 
and  country-houses ;  a  hollow  road  with  rocks 
.langmg  wood  on  each  side,  and  a  murmur- 
ing stream,  brought  us  to  that  plain.  We  .soon 
perceived  that  what  we  had  taken  tar  the  castle, 
was  five  bare  summit  of  the  mountain  called  Ar- 
thur's (tat,  near  the  foot,  nl  which  the  Castle* 

hill  could  now  be  distinguished-  It  rainei'. 
it  blew,  and  the  sun  shone  bright,  alternately 
every  quarter  of  an  hour ;  and  we  had  ,thus  an 
early  sample  of  the  tempestuous  and  variable  cli. 
mate  of  Kdinburgii.  Hou<  ■■•  hecaroe  more  nu- 
mcrous ;  and  we  drove  into  a  populous  suburb, 
by  a  good-looking  street  full  of  fchops.  Six  mag- 
nificent columns  on  the  left  attracted  our  curio- 
sity ;  they  bdong  to  a  large  edifice  half-finished, 
— the  College.  By  means  of  a  bridge  of  only 
one  arch,  wt  \  tl  over  a  deep  suhterr:i: 
street,  then  to  another  bridge  Ions  and  lofty, 
*jng  a  sort  of  valley,  like  the  bed  oFa  fiver 


54a 


eoikbuiu-h— srw  rows. 


left  dry.  This  bridge  leads  to  the  new  tonn, 
separated  from  the  old  by  the  valley,  and  pre- 
senting a  long  line  of  quay  or  terrace,  and  bouses 
of  a  neat  and  modem  appearance,  with 
noise  and  activity  than  lite  old  town,  through 
which  wc  had  just  passed.  Proceeding  along 
this  fine  quay,  the  retrospect  of  the  old  town 
presented  a  confused  hemp  of  ancient  house*, 
one  over  the  other,  very  dingy  and  high,  like 
towers  of  eight  ox  ten  stories,  with  window*  in- 
numerable ;  and  the  castle  perched  ou  its  rock 
overlooking  the  whole.  Leaving  the  quay,  wc 
penetrated  into  the  new  town,  by  a  wide  street, 
toasting  to  a  largo  and  regular  square,  then  ano- 
ther street,  also  regular,— a  public  building,  in 
a  very  good  style  of  architecture,  on  our  J  eft, 
and  a  handsome  church  on  our  right.  This  was 
the  street  we  were  looking  for,  and  here  wc  axe 
in  commodious  lodgings,  seated  by  a  bis 
fire, — which  is  extremely  pleasant,  (10th  Au- 
gust), although  it  is  not  cold ;  but  (ire  is  like  Jin 
old  friend, — it  has  the  warmth  of  irieudahip,  and 
makes  you  welcome. 

Jugtat  13. — The  inhabitants  of  Edinburgh 
arc  fond  of  the  country  •,  most  of  tlwac  for 
whom  we  lud  letters,  and  some  we  had  known 
in  America,  are  absent.  The  two  Messrs  J. 
have  undertaken  most  kindly  to  do  the  honours 
of  their  town,  and  give  IN  as  much  of  their  time 


"\ 


EDIVBUROH— POrULATION' — r-WJIUW. 


: 

with 
(jscai 


as  if  they  had  nothing  eke  to  do  with  it     Wc 
ave  seen,  under  their  guidance,  all  there  is  to 
e  seen. 
This  is  a  town  of  90  or  100,000  inhabitant** 
(the  tenth  part  of  London),  in  three  distinct  rJI- 
ns  i  the  old  and  the  new  town  side  by  side, 
ith  the  wide  ditch  between;  then  the  port, 
MipMt)  at  about  a  mile  diatanec,  on  the  Frith 
of  Forth.    The  shops,  tradesmen,  and  labourer*, 
arc  mostly  in  the  old  town.    The  college  is  there 
1*o,  but  learning  begins  to  be  attracted  by  po- 
ncss  and  the  professors  come  to  live  in  the 
ion  of  good  dinners  and  fine  Indies.     From 
height  (Calton  Hill)  in  the  new  town,  wlii 
rlooks  the  dark,  dull,  and  dirty  assemblage 
f  the  old  houses  of  the  oh  I  town,  strangers  arc 
shewn,  with  a  mixture  of  pride  and  pity,  tin; 
back  of  the  humble  abode  of  Adam  Smith*  and 
the  place  where  he  composed,  walking  to  and 
his  work  on  the  Wealth  of  Nations.    Not 
hr  off,  the  house  lately  inhabited  by  another  ce- 
lebrated professor,  but  who,  happily  for  his  chmiij- 
ry,  has  not  taken  bis  place  yet  among  the  great 
en  who  arc  no  more.' 


fro 


la  16*7,  Edinburgh  had  ouI,v  £0,Oix)  inhabitant*.  It  il  an 
arly  equal  i'j  our  American  cil 


3iO 


EDUSDVaCU—  LSVlttONB—  BOGS**. 


b  earirootd  Edinburgh,  anweJl  n*  the  site 
on  which  fit  » Imill,  present  accidents  ofhi^li  geo- 
logical interest  -f  masse*  uf  rock*  protruding  the 
•oil,  rin  abruptly  to  great  heights,  ('alt  on  1 1 i II, 
already  mentioned,  in  the  new  town,  is  :*;o  fed 
;  the  rock  of  the  cu»tlc,  in  the  old  town, 
•bout  a*  much  ;  anil  close  to  rite  town  Arthur's 
Seat,  near  8<X)  fee*  high.  In  the  space  of  two 
or  three  mtks,  south  ami  v.  ,  the  win 
country  ?*  fit  vi\h  eight  01  ten  similar  pro- 

tuberances, each  4CO  or  500  feel  high.  These 
masses  are  of  a  basaltic  nature,  ami  assume,  in 
many  plncrs,  the  prismatic  form  ordinary  to 
tlut  substance.  These  rocks  are  Jes*  intern 
to  the  painter  than  to  the  naturalist,  they  do 
unite  well  with  the  country,  and  are  either  loo 
uniforn 

This  is  in  every  respect,  a  singular  to 
The  new  part  i*  placed  in  the  middle  of  a  beau- 
tiful and  fertile  country,  without  suburbs,  or 
shabby  appn  ! ....-  other  towns  which  have 

grown  by  degrees.  Tin*  cine  was  cast  in  a 
mouldy— created  ail  at  once,  within  the  memory 
of  half  it-s  inhabitants  ;  for,  when  this  fine  b/> 
which  now  unites  the  two  towns,  was  built,  in 
in  1 760,  the  new  town  did  not  exist,  or  only 
three  <>r  four  houses  of  it.  Houses  are  shewn 
in  the  old  town,  where  persons  of  the  first  con- 


EDDJBLttGH — HOL'SBA— MQl- 


ssi 


Neqtiencc  lived  not  a  great  many  years  ago,  now 
only  deemed  fit  (or  the  lowest  tradesmen  or  la- 
bourer*. I  find  in  the  statistical  progress  of  the 
capital  of  Scotland,  by  Sir  John  Sinclair,  com* 
paring  its  state  respectively  in  ra  1763 

ami    J 793,   several  orittU   fact*.     Lord 

Drum  house  was  le/l  by  a  chairman  for 

want  of  accommodations  ;  that  of  the  Duke  of 
Douglas  U  now  occupied  by  a  wheelwright ;  C)!i- 
w:  Cromwell  once  lived  in  the  late  gloomy  cham- 
ber of  the  Sheriff's  ckrk ;  the  great  Marquis  of 
Argyll'*  house  was  possessed  by  a  hosier,  at  the 
rent  of  L.  12  per  annum.  These  arc  indications 
oi  a  great  revolution  in  the  manner  of  liib  of  all 
i.i:ik<  of  people,—*  revolution  whk  in  oatcttOplt 
of  an  advanced  age  deplore, — wliicli  die  new  ge- 
neration exults  in, — and  which  has  its  advantage* 
and  disadvantage* ;  tlic  former,  however,  un- 
doubtedly preponderate.  Tbcfe  < -mnut  l>e  any 
great  harm  in  having  a  little  more  space  and 
deanlineas  in  their  dwellings ;  in  spending  their 
evenings  at  plays  and  concerts,  rather  than  at  u- 
i ; ;  in  dining  at  the  hour  in  which  they  used 
to  sup,  and  uiing  umbrellas  in  a  country  where 
it  rains  *o  often.  The  great  change  noticed  in 
the  same  work,  in  the  use  of  ardent  spirits,  is  of 
a  much  more  alarming  nature  ;  it  ha*  increased 
prodigiously,  while  that  of  beer  hsa  diminished 
nearly  in  the  same  proportion.     In  1708  there 


!52       edikhlik.ii — i.iacors—  cahzi 


71 ,000  gallons  of  spiritu otis  liquors  distilled 
i)  Scotland •,  id  1791,  1.696,000  gallons;  an 
i7W,  5^0,47$  barrels  of  beer  were  brewed  ;  nod 
in  J7S4.  only  07,577.  Independently  of  the  bad 
consequence*  of  the  change,  the  grain  necessary 
to  make  beer  was  a  valuable  resource  in  case  of 
scarcity ;— distillation  iniswers  that  pwrpo* 
less  degree 

That  fertility,  for  which  volcanic  countries 
are  remarkable,  prevails  in  this  part  of  Scotland, 
which,  although  without  volcanoes,  presents  geo- 
logical phenomena  sufficiently  analogous  to  ac- 
count for  the  riehmit  of  soil.  All  the  country 
south-east  of  Edinburgh  is  the  granary  <>l  Scot- 
land.  The  author,  already  quoted,  mentions, 
that,  in  1781,  the  fleet  of  Admiral  Parker,  com- 
posed  of  h'ftccn  1 1  t  :  <  *  <!-*>attle  ships,  nine  frigates, 
alld  nix  hundred  merchant  vessels,  cast  anchor 
in  tin:  !  ntli  of  Forth,  and  remained  there  seven 
weeks,  without  raking  si-nxiMy  the  priced 
vision*.  The  crews  attacked  by  the  scurvy  were 
cured  hy  the  plentiful  use  of  vegetables,  ami 
particulailv  h  of  which  extra- 

nary  quantities  grovi  in  the  neighbourhood 

In  1753,  the  few  carriages  used  at  Edinburgh 
came  from  London,  hull  83,  they  were  ao  well 
const r noted  on  thejpot,  as  to  fonn  an  object  of 
exportation  f  anarCn  order  from  Riria  for  one 
thousand  carriages  was  actually   executed   *t 


lEl'RGH }..KKTin.S  Uul 


35S 


Edinburgh  in  that  year;  and  I  think  I  recol- 
lect having  rncl  I  nudliflg  in  a  long  file 
from  Rouca  to  Paris  the  ibllowing  summer, 

(«m.) 

In  eight  yejrs,  the  tOODjge  of  Um  port  of  Kdw- 
1 1 )  haa  increased  from  *2,0XK>  tons  to 
130,000  tons,  and  vet  there  are  few  manufac- 
ture*, only  glass  and  piper  I — no  considerable 
river  in  the  neighbourhood, — no  rich  produc- 
tion* : — but  industry,  frugality,  and  good.* 
arc  the  mines  whence  they  draw  their  wealth. 

Betides  the  bridge,  there  ii  another  commu- 
nication between  the  two  towns,— a  stupendous 
causeway  near  a  hundred  feet  high,  and  two  hun- 
teet  wide  at  the  top,  formed  entirely  of  the 
ground  dug  out  for  the  foundations  ol  the  new 
town,    projected  en   talus  arms*  the  immense 
ditch.     The  wind,  which  Is  often  here  a  hi 
cane,  blows  with  peculiar  violence  along 
hollow,  ■weeping  the  i 
in  in  passage,  and  might  carry  orTpossengc. 
aunoy  them  extremely,  if  they  won  not  gi 
imI  by  :i  stonewall  sevcuor  cighl  feel  highj  huilr 
for  that  purpose  th«  whole  length  of  it  *,  and  the 
open  balustrade  of  the  bridge  laving  been  found 
an  insufficient  protection,  the  interstices  have 
been  walled  up.      I  i  sew  ay  was 

to  contain  K:;a-;,(KMJca^1^|kur^rth  in 
and  may  well  have  been  doubted  since  that  time. 

roc.  r. 


ss* 


EDI.SULKGU— C.48TU- 


From  the  window*  of  our  apartment  we  sec, 
above  the  houses  opposite  to  us  the  Castle  ou 
its  rocky  pedestal,  and  the  esplanade  where  the 
troops  exercise.  The  wind,  which  agitates  tlu-ir 
MandardJ,  bears  to  us,  at  intervals,  the  sounds  of 
warlike  music,  awl  the  last  rays  of  the  sun  shins 
ou  their  polished  anna.  The  ceotincb  seen  •*  ath- 
wart  the  sky"  sccui  real  J  y  "  u«j ;" — an 

image  I  liad  admired  in  the  spWudid  |K>coa  of  Mr 
Scott,  notwitl*tandiiig  my  doubts  oi'  its  cxact- 
ncs%  ami  for  wl  is  uoi  easy  to  account. 

The  same  cause  which  enlarges  to  our  eye*  the 
apparent  bulk  of  the  moon  at  tiie  time  of  its  ri- 
sing or  setting  (the  companion  with  intervening 
objects.)  should  reduce  the  human  figure.  It  u 
not  the  greatness  of  hulk  of  the  moon  on  the  ho- 
rizon which  is  a  deception  of  our  sight,  hut  its 
apparent  smallness  at  the  zenith.  Rocks  and 
mountain*,  and  even  castles  and  ibrutkauons, 
scern  always  nearer  tluui  they  arc,  because  tocii 
are  strong  and  distinctly  •*  I  a  maa, 

placed  upon  them,  should  u\p\hxu  like  a  dwaaf, 
ntlhcr  than  a  gianL  The  poet,  however,  has 
drawn  correctly  from  nature,  and,  as  u  usual  with 
him,  most  happily.  Ihc  Castle  has  nothing  re* 
maskable  but  its  situs  tin  aspect,  whi 

vaQf  extensive  and  singular.  One  side  overlooks 
the  vciicraUs  uTiekantincstt  of  the  old  town, 
ing,  juat  under  the  eye,  a  labyrintli  of  crook- 


fcDINBLBGH CASTLE — IIOLYKOOTMfOVSE.     355 


£ 


Lanes  on  J  Moep  narrow  passages,  called  clones, 
the  other,  yuu  have?  a  Mnpcndous  prccip 
the  broad  ditch,  already  *o  often  mentioned, 
M  I  c  Iwttom  ;  beyond  that,  the  new  town  pre- 
sents its  fair  (font,  <li\idcd  into  square  battalions, 
covered  with  the  buckler  of  Uicir  roofs  *n  for- 
r*rr  separated  at  regular  intervals,  by  straight 
lines,  and  at  right  angles.  All  in  order,  I; 
and  neatness, — the  very  reverse  of  the  old  town. 
Beyond  that  again,  at  some  distance,  an  estuary 
six  or  *  :-m  i  miles  broad, — the  Frith  of  Fordi,  or 
mouth  of  die  Forth.  The  mountains  of  the  coun- 
ty of  Fife  skirt  the  horizon.  All  around  the 
town,  a  cultivated  country,  rich,  green,  and  suf- 
ficiently shady,  soon  terminated  in  the  south- 
weal  by  a  confused  cluster  of  barren  hill*,  (the 
Uud  Hills;)  farther  west  the  chain  of  the 
Highlands  -,  cast,  the  German  ocean. 

Descending  from  the  Castle,  we  followed  a 
long  street,  on  a  slope,  forming  the  only  avenue 
to  it.  This  street  in  terminated  at  its  lower  end 
by  Holy  rood-bouse.  On  the  way,  wc  were  sliewn 
a  small  window  of  a  very  poor  and  old  house, 
from  whence  the  fanatic  John  Knox,  990  years 
ago,  used  to  harangue  the  furious  and  ignorant 
populace  of  Edinburgh-  against  the  Antichrist  of 
Home,  and  the  unfortunate  Queeu  Mary.  Abotft 
the  fame  period,  the  Huguenots  were  exposed, 


west 

IV  ill 


356 


LOINBUltGll — KOLVfiOODIIOUft!:. 


in  France,  to  worse  treatment.     Holyrood-hi 
U  a  dismal  monastic-looking  castle,  formerly  the 

•ncc  of  the  .Scotch  Kings ; — a  quadrangrev 
tlanl.nl  \Mtii  towers  :it  ead  i  ;  the  ap; 

ments  distributed  all  round.  The  name  of  Men- 
sicur  on  a  door  attracted  our  attention  ;  it  was 
ibe  apartment  occupied,  for  some  years,  by  that 

>•  and  his  little  court.    His  lv-l  ieref 

ami  some  remains  of  fun:  ,verc  shewn, 

oo  the  wall,  the  portrait  of  Princess  Elizabeth* 
ted,  but  orcr  drrs*ed,  in  the  extreme  of 
the  fashion  of  the  time.  At  the  extremity  of  a 
long  gallery,  on  u  raised  platform,  tht  altar  is 
still  se<m  where  maw  u*c<i  to  be  celebrated  for 
these  illustrious  exiles.  Raising  a  corner  of  the 
cloth  which  covers  this  altar,  we  recognized  the 
familiar  form  of  a  common  s'vdcixxud,  which  had 
bcw»  thus  dignified. 

The  apartment  of  anotbi  I  unfortunate  royal 
person,  Queen  Marj*F  is  under  the  same  roof 
Her  bed  ia  shewn,  covered  wilh  a  tine  silk  coun- 
terpane, in  tatters;  Mien  the  iUt :il  eloftet,  hardly 
twelve  feet  square,  where  the  beauleo^  qu 

-it  nipper  with  her  favourite,  David  tliz/.'u 
and  some  other  persons,  when  a  troop  of  assassin; 
■taring  the  sort  of  kin  husband  at  the! 

hejid,  bwi  I   '  .  ind  tore  the  Italian  from  be 
scoce,  and  even  from  her  arms,  drap 


EDINBURGH — H0LT8001MI0USK. 


OT 


igh  several  room*,  pierced  with  their  swords 
titty-six  place*.  •  Wc  reached  the  fatal  closet 
by  the  same  back  staircase,  raised  tiic  same  cor- 
ner of  the  same  tapestry,  covering  tbti  narrow 
door  in  the  thick  wall,  through  which  the  raur- 
derer)  entered  die  queen's  apartment.  Traces 
of  blood  arc  visible  on  various  parts  of  the 
floor.  Our  conductress  observed,  that  the  floor 
is  scoured  regularly  once  a- week  ;  and  ■"apposing 
it  to  have  always  been  as  well  taken  care  of,  that 
is  12,000  or  13,000  scouring*  since  tbr  mur- 
.  — yet  the  blood  is  there,  ami  nothing  can 
tain  it  off  I 

The  gallery  is  decorated  with  a  scries  of  por- 
traits of  the  sovereigns  of  Scotland,  all  evidently 
by  the  same  hand,  and  much  in  the  style  of  the 
kings  and  queens  of  a  pack  of  cards.  I  do  not 
know  who  the  artist  is  -9  none  of  the  elect,  I  be- 
lieve. Yet  Holbein,  whose  pictures  hang  on  the 
of  the  connoisseurs,  is  not  a  better  artist 
than  this  pointer  of  the  Scotch  royally. 
The  garden  is  quite  overgrown  with  weeds, 
e  chapel,  now  unroofed,  and  in  ruins  was 
emed  a  model  of  the  finest  Gothic;  it*  pn 

:it!'  aspect  suits  the  in;  !.'ti«:lntlv  rnxcmbte  of 
the  palace.  1  have  taken  a  bird's-eye  view  of  it 
from  Calton  Hill,  and  of  the  singular  bills  O&Qed 

*  Hume's  Hitforv. 


? 


i 


$sn 


OTWJRGH — BMDLWTLL. 


Salisbury  Craig,  and  AilWa  $C*U  behind  IM 
palace,  with  a  few  of  (lie  r<  iicold  town 

below. 

Tlic  building  for  the  record*  of  titlr-dcctK  &c 
is  well  BCCiirrd  again-tt  rirv,  mid  very  Itaotkomc* 
A  lady  urtkt  hi  Mel  it  with  H  colo**l 

statue  of  his  majesty,  in  white  marble,  which  dun 

honour  to  the  loyalty  of  the  inhnbrtair 
Edtnburgh,  and  their  complaisance  to  the  fair 
donor,  than  to  their  taste.  By  some  strange  ac- 
cident an  upper  dice  of  the  head,  jnst  alt  thai 
fart  above  tlie  eye*,  containing  the  brains,  ha* 
bl  n  displaced,  and  laid  by  on  a  siielf,  crown 
and  ulL  It  was  probably  originally  an  added 
piece,  the  block  not  being  long  enough,  and  has 
since  come  low  this  accident  iihrIiI  pass 

for  a  very  improper  joke, 

The  advocates  of  Edinburgh  have  formed  an 

N  Horary,  filling  «x  large  room*.    The 

college  has  also  a  library  much  lew  considerable, 

and  n  ca!>inei  of  natural  history,  well  arranged, 

but,  as  yet,  in  its  infanrv. 

August  1 8, — Wc  liavc  just  seen  the  peniten- 
tiary house,  constructed  on  a  very  ingenious 
plan ; — a  semicircular  building,  seven  stork* 
high,  each  containing  fourteen  cells,  ail  open  to* 
wards  the  common  centre,  which  is  like  a  j 
well  open  from  top  to  bottom.  A  bow-  window, 
with  lattices,  repeated  at  each  story,  overlook 


EDINBURGH— VRIDfcWSLL— HOUSES,        3.59 


diem  all,  and  nothing  can  be  done  by  the  prison- 
er* without  being  seen ;  they  work  solitary,  and 
in  wfenct-,  in  these  98  cells  j  irnd  at  night  sleep 
in  other  little  rooms  behind  them.  This  tower, 
or  rather  section  of  a  tower,  is  lighted  by  a  sky. 
light,  and  well  ventilated.  No  had  Smelts,— no 
noise, — great  order,— -all  as  well  as  possible ;  ex- 
cept that  the  correction  doc*  not  correct ;  and 
the  same  individuals  arc  observed  to  return  from 
thwc  to  time  to  enjoy  again  this  philosophical 
retirement.  A  tiling  happened  to  us  here  which 
Reserves  to  be  mentioned.  I  had  observed  writ- 
ten over  the  door,  an  injunction  not  to  give  any 
money;  bat  the  woman  who  conducted  us  was 
so  obliging,  that  I  could  not  believe  she  did  not 
expect  some  recompense  for  her  trouble,  and  site 
received  what  I  gave  Iter  without  saying  any 
thing;  bat  when,  on  leaving  the  house,  I  was 
going  to  ptit  something  into  the  box  for  poor 
prisoner*,  the  keeper  said  it  was  unnecessary,  as 
the  woman  who  had  accompanied  us  had  just 
pot  in  the  half-crown  1  had  given  Iter !  Wc  had 
not  seen  Iter  do  it ;  she  had  disappeared  immedi- 
ately, and  could  have  no  motive:  of  ostentation ; 
nobody  was  present  when  she  RsMrWd  tlte  mo- 
ney.    **  Ou  la  vtrtu  tw-r-W/e  st  nicher  /" 

A  large  and  convenient  house  in  the  best  part 
of  Edinburgh  (Queen  Street)  built  of  freettonc, 
has  JttSt  been  sold  for  L.SO0O;  another  nearly 


in 


EDINBURGH—* VWD— THE  POOH, 


tor  L.3500;  ami  in  inferior  sireeb,  > 
good  houses  may  be  had  for  L.  1SO0,  or  hire 
L.100  a-year,  and  about  L.SO  taxes.  A  man* 
servant  L40  a-ycar;  a  woman-cook  L.13;  a 
jnairi*ervun:  I.  s.  A  carriage,  including  coach- 
bud,  and  v\Lty  tbiog  fibOi  L-2JO  a-year.  Land 
in  r  lc  neighbourhood  of  Edinburgh  lets  at  the 
exorbitant  price  <>l  Ltti  tbc  Sootcl)  acre;  or 
j  haul*,  a  perpetual  lease,  at  L,8  the  English 
acre.  High  as  it  is  this  permanent  rent  ruust 
become,  in  time,  little  more  than  nominal.  AD 
the  arable  land  between  Edinburgh  and  Berwick, 
lets  between  L. .»  and  U6  an  acre,  (om 

liian  the  English  acre).  There  beiu£  no 
liilits  here  to  die  clergy,  nor  poorVratcs,  rents 
arc  of  course  high  in  proportion,  or  even  higher. 
*Ilie  farmers  who  have  tht*  rent  to  pay,  muM 
>  higlicx  wages  to  their  labourers,  wIm 
Imivc  no  jxarish  aaaisUnce  to  depend  upon, —  ism, 
to  ass.  a- week,  equal  to  3s.  or  u.  a-day,  instead 
of  2*.  or  2s.  6d.  generally  paid  m  Cngland. 
not  understand  bow  these  fanners  can  livej  yet 

pay  their  reuts  as  exactly  as  in  E  1  1 
ami  farms  arc  iu  great  request.     Tbc 
liabits  of  industry  and  frugality  can  alone  ac- 
rss. 
There  are  no  public  institutions  here  for  the 
poor,  not  even  for  the  old  and  infirm ;  no  hospital* 
it  i« 1  tbc  Urge  towns.  Tbc  destitute  axe  assisted 


BttQHSt'llGIl — TUB  POOR. 


Sol 


by  voluntary  contributions  at  the  church  doors, 
and  private  charity.  I  was  informed  by  Mr  A. 
of  the  following  circumstance*  Seventeen  work- 
men were  killed  in  a  coal-mine,  by  the  accidental 
inflammation  of  hydrogen  gas,  and  a  greater 
number  would  have  perished,  if  they  I 
been  assisted  immediately  by  the  workmen  of 
another  mine  in  the  vicinity.  The  latter  raised 
among  themselves  a  sum  of  L  .12,  for  the  imme- 
diate assistance  Of  the  destitute  families  ot  those 
who  had  periahetl  ;  ond  3S  voung  children  left 
orphans  were  im:  i  afyditlributal  among  tbe 
neighbours  and  relations  of  the  sufferers.  Mi  A. 
observed,  at  the  same  time,  that  there  was  mora 
puW:  land,   and  more  individual 

charity  in  Scotland;  the  natural  effect  of  differ- 
ent circumstances. 

During  the  nine  <hyi  we  have  spent  at  Edin- 
burgh, there  has  not  been  a  single  one  without 
some  showers  of  rain  ;  but  we  arc  told  it  is  after  a 
long  drought.  The  temperature  of  the  air  varies 
from  60*to  72*.     fl  mm 

going  about  the  vtftcta  haivfuuittl,  on  the  pave- 
ment, which  is  very  smooth,  but  ronrinnafly  wet; 
they  are  in  other  respects  clean!)'  dr<  wed,  even 
with  gloves  on,  and  an  umbrella.   TEe  flah-mar- 

led  by  wonuii,  m 
with  enormous  loads  ot  fish  on  then  backs,  strap. 
10 


9ft 


BUHdl— FWNWOMEV* 


ped  acroas  the  breast.  Their  liixtaiirifl  are  out 
all  night  in  their  IkmU,  catching  these  fob,  wi< 
which  Ui«  women  leave  home  at  break  of 
They  look  strong,  healthy,  and  very  cheerful. 
Griping  along  the  road  ;  but  in  general  rcmark- 
abk.'  u^ly ;  and  among  the  lower  people  in  Scot- 
land, ihc  aex  is  certainly  not  beautiful.*  I 
naat  taya  of  another  part  of  Scotland,  ■  the  ten- 
der aex  (I  Uuah  for  the  Cakhneriana)  are  the: 
only  animals  of  burthen.  They  turn  their  patient 
back*  to  the  dunghills,  and  receive  in  their  kciscs, 
or  baskets  as  much  as  their  lords  and  maitci 
think  fit  to  fling  in  with  their  pitchforks,  in 
then  trudge  to  the  fields  in  droves  of  sixty 
seventy."  I  night,  however,  furnish  a  compa- 
nion to  this  picture ;  for  I  recollect  to  have  seen 
in  Ft  hat  land  of  gallantry,  a  woman  and 

an  ata  harocwed  together  to  the  same  pkmgh, 


*  TV  writer  hm  riaited  Scotland  a  mctmd  tin*,  and  I 
■  I  far  lo  dacUrc,  thai  Xhv  labouring  clou  of  females  did  not 

.i}if*nr  en  Mm  »n  very  deficient  In  panonal  cbarau  w  lbs  6 
time  *+bo  amwt  udrerf,  luurrtr  from  France,  wtore  the  Is- 
luiun^f  daat  vT  wvtnen  M  cemataer  Icaa  r. tod-loa!**  l*an  in 
1  ngland.  The  perianal  apocaiauca  uf  taw  Scutch  peasantry 
ia  strikingly  like  thM  of  the  French,  and  the  ullage  dweiltoai 
of  the  two  countries  bear  a  ttlN  »trOngrr  resemblance  to  each 
other,— ranre  ruag««Ww  af  featwre*  thaa  to  England,  an 
Icaa  inafciiii,  sod  the  »  oaten  harder  wvraad.— A'ote  to  the  S*. 
■      roa. 


LANAltK— FALLS  OF  THE  CXl'DC 


ail 


r.ml  the  tattered  peasant  behind  stimulating  hU 
tcara  with  ii  seemingly  impartial  whip. 

We  have  reason  to  be  grateful  for  the  hospi- 
tality she 'ah  ut  at  Edinburgh,  mod  we  do  not 
leave  it  without  regret 

Aug.  21.— Hamilton,  Wc  left  Edinburgh  yes- 
terday morning.  The  first  six  miles  were  through 
a  very  fine  rich  country,  well  wooded,  and  lull 
of  gentlemen'*  houses ;  alter  that  came  extensive 
moors  and  waste  lands,  over  which  cultivation  k 
encroaching  here  and  there-  At  Lanark,  38 
miles  we  took  a  hasty  dinner,  and  walked  to 
the  flilU  of  the  Clyde,  three  sstab  Like  all  the 
SetfVh  rivers  thr  t  'lytic  is  a  torrent,  rolling  its 
eoflee-coloureil,  yet  limpid  waters,  along  a  Ijcd 
of  rocks,  deeply  sunk  between  perpendicular 
banks,  or  walls  of  rock*,  \$o  feet  high,  with  bold 
projections  and  iudentments.  An  easy  path  sol* 
Iowa  the  brink  of  this  precipice ;  the  other  side 
of  the  chasm,  rising  in  full  view,  is  a*  high,  or 
higher.  You  soon  come  to  a  great  611  of  the 
river.  Turning  a  corner,  it  presents  itself  in  full 
view,  tumbling  down  broken  ledges  of  rocks, 
between  the  two  rugged  clicks ;  this  is  called 
Corra-linn.  Then  soon  another  fall  (Koniton), — 
and  another  again,— till,  after  a  walk  of  one  mile 
on  even  ground,  along  the  precipitous  bank,  you 
reach  the  top  of  all  the  falls,  and  the  river,  raised 
to  your  level,  washes  the  sod  at  yotir  feet. 


364 


LANARK F4I.LS  Or  TUB  CLTOK. 


Such  ore  the  outlines  of  thi*  wonderful  scene ; 
the  beauty  of  which  consists  in  the  happy  in- 
demmctit*  and  breaks  of  the  deep  rocky  hanks, 
afibrding  not  merely  good  points  of  vie*    for 
the  falls,  hut  .uliini.ihlf  details,  mul  an  ei 
variety  of  picturesque  accidents  nearer  the  eye. 
the  opposite  back,  the  face  of  the  rock  b 
y  shaped* — very  dark, — stained  with  drip- 
ping moisture,  and  spreading  moss,  pun  white, 
light  green,  or  brimstone  colour.     Tufts  of  fern 
•hrubs  struggle  for  life  wherever  tbtft  is  any 
footing,  and  out  of  every  cleft  trees  push  forward 
their  knotty  brnnchc*,  and  bare  roots,  creeping 
its  lunging  in  wreathe  from  bOugrj  tf*  hough. 
On  cither  side  the  lull  rises  far  above  Ibe  top  ol 
these  rocky  banks,  and  a  hanging  wood  over- 
shades  the  path  ;  fountain--  Of  |iurc  water  sprinj 
-ti*  of  its  side,  near  which  :  places  hav 

been  provided,  thatched  over,  and  lined  with 
Dads},  aa  at  the  Duke  of  Bncclcuch's.   Lady  I 
is  proprietor  of  this  beautiful  place,  and 
public  ■  crrlainly  much  obliged  to  her  for  th« 
u:ilk,  the  fountain,  and  the  resting-places; 
artists  would  wbli  Im-mJ     i:i  Iuivc  some  means 
descending  to  tbc  bottom  of  die  chum*  so  as  to 
obtain  a  view  of  the  fall  titter  for  the  pencil  I 
tht  present  bird's-eye  view;  and  this  might  be 
caxily  contrived.    The  opposite  hoik  belongs  to 
a  lady  also;  and  both  -.Hew  their  taste  in  tin 


LAXAKK— COTTON  MAXtTACTOttY. 


$(>-* 


choice  of  their  residence.  I  like  this  place  bet- 
ter than  1'ierccricld,  which  it  resemble*  in  the 
shape  of  the  grounds ;  b«it  the  Wy«  i-  dull  and 
■limy, — tbdClyde  clear  ami  boisterous;  and  the 
coffee-tinge  of  the  lallcr  temperate*  bappfly  the 
whiteness  ot  the  tumbling  foam,  which  otherwise 
might  be  too  like  cascade*  of  magnesia.  Quite 
captivated  with  the  charm*  of  Lady  Koas,  I  paid 
her  a  second  visit  ul  throe  hours  the  next  morn- 
ing, and  tried  several  sketches,  but  with  very  in- 
different success. 

Returning  tii  Lanark,  we  stopped  a  moment 
at  a  cotton-manufactory.  It  was  the  first,  est** 
Wished  in  Scotland,  and  the  most  considerable. 
It  is  certainly  a  prodigious  establishment.  We 
saw  lour  stone  buildings  ISO  feet  front  each, 
four  Mories  of  twenty  windows,  and  several  other 
buildings,  less  considerable; — 2500  workmen, 
mostly  children,  who  work  from  six  ©Ylock  in 
the  morning  tdl  seven  o'clock  iu  the  evening, 
having  in  that  interval  an  hour  and  a  qn 
allowed  for  their  meal*;  at  night,  from  eight  to 
ten  for  school.  These  children  are  taken  into 
employment  at  eight  years  old,  receiving 
shillings  a-wcek  ;  when  older,  they  get  a*  0 
as  half-a* guinea.  Part  of  them  inhabit  houses 
close  to  the  manufactory,  others  at  Lanark,  one 
mile  distance;  and  wc  were  assured  the  Inttcr 
are  distinguished  from  the  otlicrs  by  healthier 


36* 


MK*|lfc>»  TTTrt'l  II 


looks  due  to  the  isfsritt  this  distance  obliges 
them  to  lake, — lour  miles  a-<lay.  Eleven  hour* 
uf  ivufincruent  and  labour,  with  the  schooling, 
thirteen  luwirs,  id  undoubtedly  too  mucb  for 
children,  1  think  the  law*  should  interfere  be* 
twecu  ilit:  cncioachineuu  of  a\aiice  and  the 
claims  of  nature.  1  most  acknowledge,  at  the 
same  time,  thai  the  little  creature*  wc  saw  did 
not  look  ill. 

The  prodigious  increase  of  manufactories  in 
England,  and  the  application  of  the  force  of 
water  to  their  machinery,  threatened  equally  tlie 

v  of  mountain-stream*  and  of  mountain, 
moral, ;  but  farther  improvement*  iu  nieclnuMQl 

led  to  another  mode  of  a|>plying  the  three 
of  water,  ued,  instead  of  its  weight,  iu  expansion 
is  now  made  subservient  u>  the  art**.  The  steam* 
cuginc  is  an  agent  so  convenient*  so  powerful; 
ajsd  mi  tronojuiL.il  in  a  country  abounding  with 
fossil  coal,  tiwt  falls  of  water  have  been  abandon* 

but  tlie  great  manufactory  of  Lanark  had 
been  established  l*fb«»  that  pomcL  1  he  cost  of 
the  steam-engine  and  fuel  is  more  than  cuspes* 
sate<l  by  the  advantage  of  saving  the  transports* 
tion  uf  both  the  rough  material*  and  the  oianu- 
factured  articles;  of  being  on  the  spot  of  con* 
sumption  or  exportation,  and  where  a  great  po- 
pulation furnishes  workmen,  rather  thau  amanaj 
dcaarts  and  nsounlai:        I    n        I  nil  dicro  am 


LANARK— 5TCO(-£XGlNi;. 


3«7 


aov  crcn  glist  mills  worked  by  the  steam  en- 
gine. 

We  set  out  from  Lanark  on  fool,  to  visit,  in  our 
way,  the  course  of  the  Mouse,  an  imperceptible 
little  river,  at  the  bottom  of  a  frightful  chasm, 
quite  out  of  sight  and  bearing,  from  die  great 
depth  of  its  banks.  The  path  along  the  top  is,  in 
some  places,  so  narrow  and  slipper)',  as  to  make 
you  cling  to  the  trees  and  bu>hcs  instinctively. 
We  were  shewn,  by  the  guide,  tli  place 

where  the  hounds  of  his  Grace  of  Hamilton,  m 
close  pursuit  of  a  fox,  rushed  dowu  a  precipice 
of  five  hundred  and  ansae  feet  »Rtr  him,  (the 
height  was  measured  after  the  event,)  and  caught 
the  fox  in  the  water,  into  which  they  all  fell ! 
The  guide  next  pointed  out,  among  the  rocks 
on  the  opposite  side,  a  dark  hole  leading  to  a 
cavern,  the  hiding-place  (lie  had  many)  of  the 
hems  Wallace;  then  the  place  where, 
quite  lately,  an  adventurous  boy  was  letdown  by 
a  rope  held  by  two  other  boys,  toroe  hundred 
feet  along  the  face  of  a  bald  rock,  to  get  at  a 
neat  or  grey  hawks,  which  they  sold  tor  n'tlccn. 
!  Then  a  stone  bridge  of  one  arch,  all 
grey  and  inoKiy  with  age,  builL  by  the  Picts  f  and 
all  these  circumstances  arc  set  down  in  the  jour- 
nals or  each  tourist,  of  whom  wc  met  BtVQBSj  iu 
the  same  tract  with  ourselves.  At  the  end  of 
this  interesting  walk,  we  reached  oiir  pattchsuM, 

II 


368 


HAMILTON— KCT 


glad  to  be  carried  along,  without  further  exei 
lions,  easily  and  swiiUy,  and  to  sec  a  tine  cow 
U\  Hying  along  in  endless  change  ft  aid< 

of  us.     Soon,  however,  we  Irfl  (his  potttm  en- 
joyment, and  descended,  by  a  beaten  path,  10 
our  beautiful  Clyde  again,  which  takes  here 
other  leap,  more  tnagniwvnr,  perhaps,  than  tito 
first,  but  so  inferior  in  |  iqjue  acoonipani- 

menta,  as  not  to  be  comparable. 

On  our  arrival  at  HamiltO  *md  a  prci 

ing  invitation  from  .Mr  C.  to  his  house,  u 
soon  owe  biimdf  to  repeat  it ;  but  wc  only 
i  oorjdvn  the  pleasure  of  speiuliitt;  the  next 
.vith  him,  and  of  visiting  the  palace  under 
guidance. 

Ju  . — Hamilton-Palace  a  large 

house,  without  any  pretensions  to  architecture* 
nl  its  arte  quite  flat ;  hut  .smooth  lawns,  and 
spreading  trees,  have  a  charm  in  thctnselvi 
which  make*  up  for  the  alwcncc  of  any  other* 
Among  the  pictures,  we  noticed  one  of  n 
repoUtion,  Daniel  in  the  Lions'  Den,  by  II  i 
bens.  Tnc  prophet,  Mated  on  a  stone,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  number  of  lions  and  lionesses 
Who  iakc  very  little  notice  of  him.  His  ierrorf 
however,  ippfSVI  extreme  ;  his  hands  clasped, 
and  elbows  squeezed  against  lux  sides— his  ki 
also  pressed  together— you  could  fancy  a  cold 
sweat  running  down  hi*  face,  the  expression  of 


HAMILTON FICTM!F\ 


369 


which  is  low  and  vulgar.  Instead  of  a  prophet. 
In?  seems  a  common  malt-factor  abandoned  I 
wild  beasts,  who  knows  he  has  deserved  his  fate, 
and  expects  fully  to  be  eaten  up  as  soon  as  the 
lions  shall  be  ready  for  their  meal :— not  the' least 
appearance  of  pious  resignation,  or  trust  in  Pro- 
vidence. There  is  a  hole  above  hi*  head,  bv 
which  light  penetrates  into  the  cave,  and  which 
serves  probably  as  a  door,  as  well  as  a  window. 
This  opening  is  so  low,  that,  if  the  prophet  had 
not  lost  his  head,  he  might  sec  that  a  moderate 
jump  would  extricate  him  at  once  from  his  most 
critical  situation-  To  do  justice  to  Itubcns;  I 
must  say,  that  nn  author  of  undoubted  taste 
(Gilpin)  lias  pt'aibed  this  very  picture  as  a  chef- 
tTauvre9  and  I  beg  to  refer  my  readers  to  his 
book.*  His  theory  on  the  means  of  exciting 
imagination  by  hiding  partly,  rather  than  by 
showing  too  plainly  objects  of  terror, — the  an- 
gry heads  of  the  lions,  for  instance,  while  the 
rest  of  their  bodies  should  remain  in  shadow,  is 
so  just,  that  I  should  reproach  myself  the  more 
for  not  seeing,  in  the  principal  figure-,  all  lie  saw, 
if  I  did  not  know  how  arbitrary  and  convention- 
al the  taste  of  connoisseurs  is.    La  Bruyere  calls 


vox.,  r. 


Gilpin'j  Scotch  Tour,  p.  58  to  &U 

2  A 


J70  U  1M1LTOK— CJlATr.LaEKALLT. 

it  sot  £<•«/  f/e  comparavon.  Connoisseurs  take 
fair  models  atnoo^  the  fathers  of  the  art,  and, 
losing  sight  of' nature, 

Wbcfc  Vnjtil,  >x  »l>crc  fane*,  kuU  die  w*y.H 

By  the  side  -  tdbcttj  there  is  a  N.  Poussiri, 

which  appeared  to  rnc  very  good ;  a  group  of 
women  and  disciples  roumi  the  body  of  Christ. 
The  expression  of  the  head?  and  altitude*  very 
Jirtt ;  and  the  colouring  less  of  the  dull  brick- 
red  than  usual.  Several  excellent  portraits  by 
Vandyke. 

Chateltierault,  from  the  name  of  some  posses- 
sions of  the  family  in  France,  is  a  dependence  of 
Hamilton-House.  The  ride  to  it  is  along  a  ra- 
vine, something  like  the  deep  bed  of  the  Mouse 
iir  the  day  before  yesterday,  bat  much  infe- 
rior. The  little  river  here  is  Called  the  Avon. 
A  grove  of  oaks  is  -hewn  at  this  place  of  a  pro- 
digious si/c :— we  saw  them  at  a  diatancc  only. 
It  is  cfair  that  Scotland  is  capable  of  bearing 
fine  timber,  and  that  its  wanl  od  wood  is  rliarge. 
able  lo  the  Inattention  of  the  inhabitants,  ami 
not  to  any  defect  of  soil  or  climate. 

We  finished  the  day  at  our  obliging  conduct- 
t.i\.  'Hie  roses  of  his  garden  arc  still  in  (lower; 
cherries  are  not  over  ;  green  peas  and  cauliflow- 
ers are  in  season  ;  and  hay-making  has  travelled 


I 


20THWJSLL-V4S71.E — GLASGOW. 


Wl 


•itli  us  from  I«ondon  here, — nearly  two  months 
liflbrencc!  The  summer  of  Scotland  is  imccr. 

.in,  lull-,    and   COOl.      The  N i-  iim    iuv  Mr  tidal 

together,  and  it  is  scarcely  ever  hot  or  coltL 

August  fl  U — C  JIa*gow.  Yesterday  morning  wc 
visited  the ruiii»uf]Sutli well (':iMlL%i ii  tlu- ground* 
of  Lord  Douglas, — a  good  run),  hut  dressed  ra- 
ther too  youthfully.  It  look*  II  U  it  I1..1I  been 
taken  up  from  its  old  bed  of  rubbish,  carefully 
dusted,  somrcl  with  soap-suds  and  a  brush,  then 
placed  cm  the  top  of  a  knoll  of  neat  turf]  with  I 
•m;ivi*1  walk  all  xound.  There  used  to  be  11  bed 
of  flowers  too,— but  th;it  is  removed  ;  and,  upon 
the  whole,  if  the  gravel  raft  wert  nide  to  resem- 
ble an  easy  worn  path,  I  would  not  quarrel  with 
the  green  turf,  nor  the  absence  of  thorns  and 
Li  Ian.  The  grounds,  though  not  extensive,  are 
very  beautiful,  and  the  walks  well  laid  out.  Wc 
BawnoiervAD(stofce»ftodvatch  our  steps,  which 
is  certainly  unusually  liberal. 

At  night  we  were  received  with  Scotch  hospi- 
tality at  Mill-beugh  by  (he  family  of  the  btc  ce- 
lebrated Ptofeisor  Millar.  A  little  sequestered 
uml  shady  vale,  watered  by  n  small  lively  stream, 
is  called  here  a  hotwi.,  (hut  pronounced,  though 
not  meaning,  home  .)  and  the  rivulet  is  called  a 
burn. 

On  our  arrival  at  Glasgow  this  morning,  wc 
found  at  the  inrt  several  notes  of  im  itattoo.  nnd 


W 


GLASGOW — MAHCMCTUItES. 


orrcrsofscrvfcc,  as  obliging  a*  unexpected*  Triest* 
not  simple  font  -  of  politeness,  for  in  Ion 
than  an  hour,  Professor  M.  Mr  G.  am!  Mr  H. 
ftg  framed  that  we  haul  so  little  time  to  stay, 
undertook  to  carry  us  irnm-  to  the  prut 

cJpal  roaualaxtoric*.  We  have  Been  carding  and 
fepinning-mill*,    weaving-mills,  mills   for  cv 
thinp.  The  human  hand  and  hnmnn  mte&igi 
ait  not  separated;  and  inert  physical  for. 
drawn  from  air  and  water  altme,  hv  means  of 
the  steam-engine*     Manufactories,  thus  aMOC>« 


*  A  tlMm-engine,  of  the  prrwec  of  forty  h*r*w,  coniurae* 
about  Sri  chaldrnna,  or  1 1,000  lbs.  wftiflnt  nf  coala  in  twenty - 
tuur  houra :  and,  notwiihtiaciuma  the  great  BrHwpneaj  of  coal*, 
the  keeping  of  I'JO  horeea  (three  »o:»  i»f  40,  to  relieve  each 
other,)  would  not  cot  more  thnn  faoublo  the  price  of  the  liir!. 
therefore,  in  4  country-  where  lurrl  ant*  more  than  double  the 
price  here,  the  ttcam-engine  could  not  be  used  U  advantage. 
1  !u«  Kri'-*(  t*>n*i'"i|>tiini  uffuft,  by  confining  th«  eteara-«nf;ir*' 
io  a  coul  country,  aecurca,  in  o  great  dcaree,  to  England,  iaa 
axduaivc  privilege:  of  tt  prodigioua  power,  atone  suifldeat  to 
give  licr  a  decide]  Maparioriif  in  die  practice  of  nwl  of  Uw 
ii-eful  art*.  It  im  mora  than  a  century  aincc  the  principle*  ol" 
the  i  ten  m-en^irte  were  dbcoecrcd,  and  applied  to  mechanical 
me*,  bm  it  it  not  morn  ihnn  twenty  five  or  thirty  ycara  tinor 
■  i  luhme,  I  might  elinoit  my  :h»  living  body,  w*»  brought 
M  '*piYvnt  rite  of  perfection,  by  the  celebrated  Mi  Watt. 
*nrc»»mii  of  iU  power  in  horn  «  !•  more  pmrtirul  thai 
-i  i*  unfir.  The  power  of  a  horae  it  under atnnd  ID  be  tliai 
*!>ich  will  rlevarr  a  weight  of  33,00015a,  the  hrjlajhl  of  oar 


GLASGOW — MASUFACTDaCS. 


37J 


nttjil  with  acwnce,  seem  to  produce  with  the  fa- 
cility aiitt  fecundity  of  nature.    It  is  impossible 
to  »cc  without  astonishment  these  emtteii  i 
of  cotton,  as  light  as  snow,  and  as  white,  ever 

mring  from  the  cwding-machitie,  thou  -seized 
by  the  teeth  ol"  iimutncrablt:  uIiriN  and  CJ 
dcrs,  and  stretched  into  threads,  flowing  like  a 
rapid  stream,  and  lo>t  In  tlic  (oarUUon  of 
dies.  Tiie  eye  of  u  child  or  of  a  woman  watches 
over  the  blind  mechanism,  directing  tlie  motion* 
of  her  whirling  battalion,  rallying  disordered  and 
broken  threads,  and  repairing  unforeseen  acci- 
dents. The  shuttle  liki'wi.se,  untuiirlu'd,  -,hoot> 
to  and  fro  by  an  invisible  force  j  and  the  weaver, 
no  longer  ciamped  upon  his  uneasy  *cat,  but 
merely  overlooking  his  self-moving  looms,  pro- 
duce* forty-eight yanfa  of  cloth  in  a  day,  instead 
of  four  or  five  yards, 

Passiuj;  rapidly  from  one  thing  to  another,  you 
have  only  time  to  wonder,  without  understand. 


loot  in  J  tnimitr  nf  lime,  equal  to  about  1K>  II)*-  four  milr«  in  an 
hows  a  force  greater  than  thai  c\etud  by  an  ordinary  cart- 
lion*',  which  i»  not  etiinutcd  at  mare  than  70  lb». ;  tlmi  k  fro 
«y,  that  a  hone  bqroMMfl  <"  *  vart,  weighing,  with  iu  lo.nl, 
W  cwt.  or  |wa  tons  jiml  drawing  on  a  level  mail  at  the  r*te  of 
four  laitca  U  hum.  umLn  i»j  ofthemnr  facta  i!  hi*  trace*, 
iaatejul  oF  being  fattened  to  a  cart,  poucd  over  a  pulley,  and 
lifted  perpendicularly  «  ««ight  oi  TO  lbs. 
5 


37* 


GtASGOvr — yAHurACTrncs. 


tag  enough  to  explain  satisfactorily  what  you 
have  seen,  or  scarcely  to  retain  way  connected 
remembrance  of  it.  One  thing,  however,  made 
afl  imprmMfin,  from  ii-  ii  tgemouft  futility*-— the 
tambouring  or  embroidering  mill.  Multitudes  of 
needle*,  «If.moving,  execute,  as  by  enchant* 
riL'iit,  :i  randftf  |K»uern  of  sprigs  or  flower.*.  This 
machine  has  the  sp|  <•  of  the  stocki 

loom.  I  do  not  know  whether  there  is  not  a 
j-mill  *,  the  force  of  water  is  used  at  leartin 
the  (UOcfltt)  to  press  tin-  yam  after  it  has  been 
dipped,  and  to  arjoeeae  out  the  dye.  This  was 
done  formerly  by  twisting  with  a  stick  ;  a  slow 
md  laborious  process,  injurious  to  the  yarn.  It 
iW  i\onr  by  tin?  wuter-prewt,  a*  powerful  as  it 
is  simple  ami  ingenious.  A  strong  case,  (uf  iron 
I  believe),  of  about  three  feet  every  way,  re. 
ia  lid,  or  rather  pi*'.on,  exactly  fitted  to  its 
interior,  in  wliicli  it  plays  up  and  down.  Water 
is  introduced  under  this  piston  hy  means 
farcing  pump,  the  lever  of  which  is  worked  by 
one  or  two  men  -9  every  stroke  of  the  level 
jCCtl  a  small  portion  of  water  under  the  pirtoo, 
which,  acting  like  a  wedge,  lifts  it  insensibly, 
compressing  the  yarn  placed  over,  The  labour 
of  two  men  applied  for  five  mint  it  es,  elevates  :% 
weight  of  fifty  tons  from  the  bottom  of  the  CUty 
that  ii  to  sny,  three  feet.  The  mechanism  of  this 
press  appears  the  inverse  of  tlte  pneumatic  ma- 


i^i^iM 


i — ma: 


'DUES. 


37* 


chine,  ami  tours  some  reseathlanci1,  in  principle, 
to  the  htfter  kqdrauiiyuc  of  Mi  Montgoliier,  only 
the  Icier  being  substituted  to  a  fall  of  water. 
This  press  might  be  so  constructed  as  to  be  easi- 
ly transported,  iiim!  applied  where  WW  >  I  lo  re- 
move heftvy  bodies;  its  power  ha*  :*carcely  any 
other  limits  than  the  strength  of  the  esse,  which 
should  be  cylindrical  instead  of  square.  The 
quantity  of  water  required,  »<.  of  course,  no  B 
than  the  case  can  hold. 

Many  of  these  manufactories  requiring  an  even 
temperature  ol  about  7tf\  which  exceeds  that  of 
the  external  air,  the  windows  are  kept  constantly 
shut ;  indeed  they  are  often  constructed  so  as 
not  to  open  at  all,  or  at  most  only  one  pune  in  a 
window,  anil  the  utinospherc  b,  an  may  to 
posed,  not  very  pure.  Some  of  the  processes  re- 
quire even  <Kf  or  100*,  obtained  by  mean*  of 
large  fires  in  stoves,  winter  and  summer.  We  just 
looked  in,  and  tbc  heat  appeared  quite  ii 
portable  to  us,  .iltliough  we  have  often  exfteri- 
enced  it  for  days  Mgetht  r  in  America.  The  men 
did  not  seem  to  9uftcr  from  it ;  the  external  air 
was  to-day  55*  to  GO*. 

There  are   lien*   nuHfiaaafll    warm -hatha    in 
marble  (supplied,  I  believe,  by  the  atearo-en- 
■    y. 
August  25. — Continuing  our  round  of  si- 
re  hate  seen  this  nioiiiin-,  hu4  much  too  hastily, 


576     GLASGOW — HUSrr.MAS  MUSSUM PICTURE*. 

the  Museum  called  Hunte/ian,  from  the  nana 
its  founder,  Dr  William  Hunter,   a  celcbral 
physician.    There  b  a  curious  collection  of  ana- 
tomical roonrtnroxiricK,  principally  <tf  thr  human 
fostus.     The  collection  of  mineiuU  appears 

i  Icrablc,  as  well  as  that  of  medals  ;  the  whole 
well  arranged  in  :i  wxy  lira;  building.     We  pcr- 

d,  with  an  interest  mixed  with  some  shame, 
mi  original  letter  of  Washington,  exposed  to  the 
eyes  of  the  public  under  a  glass.  The  object  of 
thi,  letter  mkp  to  give  directions  for  a  handsome 
uniform  i\n  himself,  with  an  up)  r  <sf  care 

and  importance  rather  derogatory  from  heroical 
dignity.  Every  body  knows  heroes  unbend  some- 

• ;  hut  J  own  I  wisJi  I  cuuld  get  any  other 
letter  to  substitute  for  thw  one.     Tliere  arc 
few  letters  of  Washington  not  iit  to  be  seen  am 
admired,  that  this  unhappy  selection  is  the  more 
to  he  regretted. 

A  merchant  of  this  town,  Mr  Gordon,  has  a 
tfnuril  collection  of  very  good  pictures.  •  Two  of 
the  best  Titians  I  lave  yet  seen  in  England  i  a 


*  The  writer  tits  since  seen  ognin  this  collection  c 
/rhicli,   iwthnuRh  ttrj  good,  u  totally   ilit!rr.-iit   front   the   (W- 
nrripilon  uttt  jjiven.     The  loose  notes  lie  was  In  ihe  ru 
taling  uii  cuou  occasions  mutf  li&ffl  been  rniitaitJ,  and  the  Je- 
■cripl  M)  t.r  »omc  at  lie*  collection  laUn  (or  (hi*  OS* — .Vof*  f» 
SrvW  Miriam. 


Rembrandt,  (Laxaxus  in  the  tomb),  the  colour- 
ing merely  black  and  white,  mellowed  with  yel- 
low, and  his  usual  glorious  outline,  of  the  great- 
est eiTecU  A  £ond  Murillo,—- and  I  have  not 
seen  a  bad  one  yet. 

Cobbett's  prosecution  tot  I  libel  being  men- 
tioned in  a  company  where  1  happened  to  be, 
and  his  having  pleaded  his  cause  himself,  as  Mr 
Perry,  another  writer  in  the  same  predicament* 
had  done  before  him,  but  with  very  different  suc- 
cess,— somebody  said  u  Cohliett  wanted  to  lie 
Perry,  when  he  ought  to  have  been  muttu"9 
The  nation  pcauiNtc  is  by  no  means  insensible 
to  this  specie*  of  wit. 

I  was  surprised  to  hear  the  following  anecdote 
HWIBCtillg  David  Hume*,  so  well  Lnmvn  in  Irancc 
sl»  a  grave  philosopher  and  profound  mcUphyM- 
cian,  and  not  at  all  as  a  jeaUi.  He  bequeathed 
to  his  friend  John  Hoim.-,  author  of  the  tri- 
or, Douglas,  certain  excellent  Madfltn  wine, 
known  to  be  particularly  approved  of  by  him, 
and  certain  port  wine,  which  he  disked,  on  con- 
dition, (and  all  this  in  the  will,  as  I  understand) 
that  hiv  friend  Honn'shnutu  DOj  tifte  the  former 
till  he  had  finished  the  latter, — chunk  it  fairly  to 
last  drop.  This  is  surely  a  very  odd  joke  be- 


*  1  undi-.v—J  thii  cXwIIcM  i/un  flttl  mndc-  (>\  Mr  (!,  En- 


S7B 


EDINBURGH— HUME* 


tween  philosophers,  and  on  such  an  occasion.  It 
may  Iwve  been  done  in  sincere  %wt*ii  de  atur ; — 
there  is  nothing  too  tanustical  not  to  be  true  in 
this  Isk  etc*  Sowcctta  of  llabelai*.  In  any  otJicr 
country  I  timid  think  th»  a  mere  atiectation  of 
contempt  of  death.  David  Hume,  a  very  good 
man  in  practice,  was.  a*  every  man  knows,  a 
perfect  mbelievcr.  It  had  been  the  endeavour 
of  hta  literary  life  to  undermine  and  shake  those, 
opinions  oi"  a  future  lile,  which  arc  often  the  sup- 
port of  virtue, — the  last  hope  ot  the  unfortunate, 
— the  only  counterpoise  of  absolute  evil  in  this 
world, — and  which  furnish  die  only  cxptanntion 
of  which  it  b  susceptible.  Children  King  when 
they  arc  frightened  ;  and,  towanla  die  close  of 
lit*  lite,  a  philosopher  might  think  it  expedient 

( lose  to  Edinburgh,  on  the  slope  oi'  Caitoo 
nb  of  Hume  is  shown,  a  tort  of  low 
tower,  whi  i  he  himself  built  in  his  lifetime,  to 
receive  all  that  was  to  remain  of  hb  existence. 
u  I/immortalite," says  Villcterquc,  "est  lesongc 
du  dernier  sontmeil,  on  ne  «.-■  reveille  pew  pour  en 
jnuir  "  Fallacious  x<  the  sentiment  <>l  iminarta- 
lity  seems  to  some,  they  still  cling  to  it  in  some 
shape,  unwilling  to  let  go  what  they  declare  has 
no  reuhry.  To  them,  thought  is  matter,  but  then 
matter  is  thought ;  thai  is  to  say,  a  thing  so  to- 
tally different  from  any  of  its  sensible  properties, 


GLASGOW — BURNS — TUADE, 


379 


(lac  it  might  su  veil  bear  another  name,  ami 
proud  would  they  lie  Jo  give  it  that  name,  and  to 
proclaim  a  spirit  lit-ymid  mutter,  if  they  could  he 
the  first  to  do  so  5 — proud  to  acknowledge  the 
conscious  feeling  of  unpernhablc  life,  if  the  una- 
nimous voice  of  mankind  had  not  acknowledged 
it  before  them.  Burns  sddres*cd  to  a  mouse  liis 
plough  had  turned  up  these  lines,  of  so  melan- 
choly and  so  profound  a  *cnsc  : 


Still  ibou  rut  Ural  compared  10  mc, 

'i'lir  prc<i:nt  nnly  tuuHictli  tlicc ; 

Bur  oh  1  !  backward  c»t  my  eye 
On  proj^iteu  drear. 

And  forward,  though  I  cannot 
1  yuc*  fcjjJ  fear. 


Deplorable  as  the  uncertainty  of  ow  ideas  on 
futurity  is  already,  that  ambition  of  tame  which 
seeks  its  gratification  in  the  extinguishment  of 
moo's  best  hopes,  is  a  more  effectual  curse  to 
them,  than  the  vulgar  ambition  of  conquering 
lame- 

I  understand  there  is  more  of  the  reforming 
spirit  observable  at  Glasgow  than  at  Edinburgh. 
That  spirit  is  scarcely  ever  found -among  the  peo- 
ple of  the  country,  but  only  in  the  large  towns, 
and  peculiarly  In  the  manufacturing  towns.  Their 
lation  is  exposed  to  mam  hard  vicissitude* 
ami  (rials.  ^  hen  trade  is  prosperous,  they  cam 
a  great  deal,  live  fa  luxury,  and  indulge  in  ex- 


3-0 


GLASGOW—TRADE — fARMS. 


tfK9  ;  at  other  times  they  starve,  and  arc  con- 
•  ntly  ttirhnli  ii  i!  i  ilihcontcntcd.  Altliuii^Ji 
then-  may  he  de&irablc  reform*  in  the  govern 
iiient,  I  he  morals  of  these  reformers  themsel 
arc  more  immediately  in  need  of  amendment 
The  condensed  population  of  trailing  town* 
been  Uie  houlwl  Of  liberty,  and  gave  tin?  signal 
of  emancipation  among  llie  lower  ranks ;  hut  the 
execs*  of  this,  condensation  now  generates  licence. 
Scotland  is,  upon  the  whole,  very  loyal ;  and  con- 
sidering how  litely  it  has  lost  its  former  inde- 
pendence, or  rather  separate  Sovereignty,  and 
how  many  tilings  remain  to  peqxituatc  tl*e  re. 
lection  oi  it,  there  is  some  reason  to  be  surprised 
that  the  Boot)  shoufd  appear  more  attached  to  the 
British  government,  more  quiet  and  uhedn'iit, 
than  even  the  English  themselves.  Why  should 
Ireland  present  a  spectacle  so  totally  different  ? 

A  gentleman  who  has  a  farm  near  Glasgow,  1 
sold  the  crop  of  a  field  of  potatoes  at  somcthin 
more  than  I*.50&terling  an  acre,  in  the  ground,  a 
to  be  taken  up  by  the  purchaser.     This  appears 
prodigiom ;  and  if  there  is  so  much  advantage  i 
the  cultivation  of  potatoes,  one  would  suppose! 
would  be  m>ou  so  extended  as  to  bring  the  return* 
ol"n  field  of  potatoes  nearer  on  a  par  with  that 
b  in  ii  of  vhcat 

The  incomiH;i\  on  landa  (one-tenth)  b 
on  t1»r  rent,  when  the  land  is  let,  ud  when 


E 


CLASCOW — 1KCOME-TAX. 


iroprietor  i*  hi*  own  farmer,  the  rent  i  ucd 

»y  the  general  value  of  land,  and  not  by  the  ae- 
d  .1  jinxc-ed*.  Such  il  the  prodigious  increase  of 
dustry  here,  that  such  lands  as  would  have  let 
year*  ago  at  ?s.  an  acre,  bring  now  four 
is  (forty-two  times),  and  the  rent  is  paid 
more  facility,  certainty,  and  regularity  than 
irmcrly.  Scotch  farmers  are  said  not  to  be  m» 
blindly  attached  to  old  exploded  methods  as 
those  of  England,  and  are  more  disposed  to  pro- 
fit by  modem  discoveries  ;  but  the  great  causi: 
of  their  success  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  fruga* 
lity,  perhaps  a  little  sordid,  of  these  people,  and 
their  indefatigable  industry.  They  win  the  race, 
as  the  tortoise  did  with  the  hare. 

Immense  supplies  of  wheat  and  flour  have  ar- 
rived at  Greenock  lately,  and  more  is  expected, 
which  will  arrive  too  late,  for  the  crop  is  toler- 
able, and  prices  falling.  I  am  assured  more  corn 
came  from  Franco  in  ihc  Ipflco  of  a  few  weeks 
htl  ipriqiff  lna»  there  c\ui  Rbs  impaled  from 
itticrica  in  any  one  year.  The  great  Burpri 
insistence  wliich  allows  such  exportation*  of 
rain,  must  arise  cither  from  a  very  flourishing 
talc  of  agriculture,  or  from  a  lessening  populn- 
ion.  In  the  United  States  the  population  fbllOWl 
close  on  the  means  of  subsistence,  as  never  to 
ivc  any  great  surplus  for  exportation. 
The  inhabitants  of  tin's  town  have  raised  a  mo. 


__ 


$$2        GLASGOW — DRESS— CAKAL— HOUSES. 


immcot  to  the  glory  of  Nelson ;  an  obelisk  of 
1,50  feet  High,  Irom  a  design  of  Mr  Craig's ; 
scarcely  riniahc-d,  it  ha*  been  struck  with  light- 
ami  lli«  effect  is  very  singular.     Several 

stones,  nearly  torn  out  near  the  lop,  hold 
only  by  one  cud,  like  a  door  turning  upon  iu 

..  The  *tate  of  the  obelisk  in  so  threaten* 
ing,  a*  to  make  il  a  dangerous  undertaking  even 
to  take  il  down. 

Augutt  26. — W«  bavc  taken  leave  of  our  Gits* 
gOW  friends  this  morning  with  some  regret,  and 
in  hopes  of  meeting  again  before  wc  leave  Scot- 
land.    Iking  StadajTs  v,c  saw  mony  women  in 

iicjf  tun  ii,  walking  to  dturcJi  in  (fane  best 
apparel,  and  really  very  neatly  dreased-  H 
gowns,  shawl,  black  velvet  bonnet,  glove*,  and  an 
umbrella,  absolutely  walking  bare-footed  in  the 
mud,  very  composedly,  with  their  shoes  and 
■JurjHnjH  in  their  lurid  i.  This  custom  i*  d«  i- 
«l  as  clean,  tor  they  muse  wash  their  feci, — as 
wholesome,  for  they  arc  sure  of  having  dry  shoes 
and  stock  logs— and  it  is  certainly  saving. 

Between  Glasgow  and  Dumbarton,  we  saw  the 
great  canal,  which  comes  into  the  Clyde  near  the 
latfi r  place,  uniting  the  oast  witli  the  west  coast ; 

i  miles  in  length,  between  tlic  Forth  and  the 
Clyde;  rising  in  this  interval  to  a  total  height 
of  1(30  feet,  by  means  of  30  locks.  It  admit*. 
sels  drawing  8  feet  of  water,  19  feel  wide,  and  79 


DUMBARTON*. 


383 


long,  pasting  over  n  number  of  rallies  by  means 
hi  aqueducts.  The  principal  one  is  65  feet  high 
and  420  feet  long.  This  fine  canal,  finished 
about  twenty  years  ago,  cost  only  L.soo.ooa 
The  great  military  canal,  which,  like  this  traver- 
ses Scotland  from  one  sea  to  the  other,  that  ia  to 
say,  from  Inverness  to  Fort-William,  cost  three 
times  as  much,  althOOgh  its  utility  is  doubted. 

Gentlemen's  houses  appear  lull  as  numerous 
about  this  country  as  in  :,  with  flu*  same 

![i;ifiiim'n!N  of  plantations  and  lawns,  aJ- 
haps,  not  ?o  neatly  kept.  The  great 
number  of  watcringand  sea-bathing  places,  where 
people  retort  In  summer,  had  made  mc  doubt 
their  love  for  the  country,  and  its  retirement. 
Hut  the  number  of  gentlemen's  houses  in  so  pro- 
.'.i-riours  that  all  die  places  of  public  resort  to- 
gether, could  not  hold  any  considerable  part  of 
their  inhabitants,  and  most  ot'  them  must  be  sup- 
posed to  remain  at  home. 

The  in:  i  ''  Dumbarton  is  like  its  fellow  of  Edin- 
burgh, perched  on  an  insulated  rock  ;  this  one, 
however,  nsing  at  once  like  a  va.it.  piliai  in  tin* 
le  of  the  plain,  or  rather  marsh,  and  with- 
any  accompaniments,  is  more  astonishing. 
I  have  not  looked  at  it  near,  but  i  have  no  doubt 
it  is  basaltic  like  the  others  °f  what  is  called  h 
Scotland  whin,  of  a  dark  iron-grey  colour,  or 
greenish  with  light  specks;  hard,  ponderous,  tine- 


3?4 


BATH   INN — LOCH  CARE,  *c 


grnined,  and  decomposing  slowly  in  the  air* 
Whenever  a  piece  is  broken,  you  find  ihc  pale- 
ness of  the  surface  penetrating  half  an  inch  or 
more.  This  rock  t*  always  in  great  masses  anil 
■r  stratified. 

At  the  Bath  Inn,  very  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  estuary  of  the  Clyde,  seven  miles  below  Dum- 
barton, and  twenty-three  from  Glasgow-  Wl: 
travel  now  with  u  pair  of  hones,  hired  at  Glas- 
gow for  our  tour  of  the  Highland*  where  post 
hones  arc  not  to  be  had,  and  pay  4O5-  a-day,  and 
about  4*.  to  Uie  man,  but  have  nothing  to  do 
with  the  maintenance  of  horse*  or  driver. 

A ugutt  £".■ — From  the  Rath  Iran  hy  Anrfinc* 
pte,  along  the  banks  of  the  Clyde,  and  of  Loch 
:irile*  to  ita  northern  extremity  ; — 
where,  leaving  the  carriage,  we  ateended  a  lull 
which  separate*  Loch  Gare  and  Loch  Long,  am 
Aon  the  top  of  wliich  both  are  in  sight : — Thi 
tormer  ;i  lively  inhabited  pretty  scene,  with  geo- 
tJe  hills,  trees,  and  fields ;  the  latter  sunk  into  a 
deep  (hone  »t  nigged  rocks,  rising  abruptly  froi 
rlic  wtter-    The  ateep  usrent  of  the  mountains 
was  clothed  with  purple  heath,  tern: 
regular  jagged  summits,  hung  with  heavy  <•! 
The  unruffled  surface  of  the  water  reflected  evei 
object,  ami,  doubling  round  projecting  potato; 
fonw  1  bays,  and  wa?  lost  among  the  moufti 

lain*  it  penetrated.    \"»  habitations,  no  tree*.  DQ 


LOCH  GARE — BRX-LOMOKD. 


3$5 


cultivation,  no  sound  ;  si  tew  sheep  in  the  dtt- 
:r  were  the  only  object*  Unit  hud  motion  ot 
life.  Doth  lochs  arc  arms  of  the  bco.  Lc;i 
this  scene  of  melancholy  greatness,  wc  retraced 
our  steps  to  Ardincaplc,  and,  en  attendant  dinner, 
took  a  boat,  crossed  Loch  Garc,  and  landed  near 
the  bouse  building  by  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  on  li  fe 
estate  of  Kosencath.  It  is  situated  on  a  penin- 
sula, formed  by  the  three  arms  of  the  sea  I  hive 
mentioned.  The  principal  front  of  the  building 
is  handsome,  the  other  side  is  distiguxed  by  a  huge 
tower  in  the  centre,  totally  out  of  place  and  piv- 
portion.    'J*bc  grounds  appear  neglected. 

Ai  <t  wc  proceeded  to  Lus*,  ou  Loch 

Lomond,  a  freshwater  lake.  The  fust  ajq 
ancc  disappointed  mc-  The  immediate  banks 
are  tow,  and  vulgarized  with  small  iuclosures,  po- 
tatoe  patches,  and  white  houses  three  stories  high, 
re  toppice,  1-Licly  cut.  Multitudes 
mall  inlands,  low  and  naked,  rill  up  the  lake 
without  adorning  it.  On  the  other  side,  Ben-Lo- 
mond, enveloped  i«  heavy  clouds, 
visible,  except  its  base. 

Au&wl  SW.— Wc  liad  proposed  crossing  the 
lake  thi<  morning  and  climbing  up  Ben- Lomond, 
340u  feet  high,  a  teat  generally  pcrionacd  in  live 
hours,  partly  on  foot  and  partly  on  horseback. 
mountain  is  however,  nut  only  covered  with 
clouds,  a*  yesterday,  but  it  rains ;  we  have  con- 

VOU  I.  fi  B 


Iflfl 


i  ohom), — loch-lomoho. 


irtYCd,  notwithstanding,  to  paddle  U>  the  pi 
pal  idaiid,  which  b  high  and  woody.  From  its 
summit,  die  multitude  of  island*  which  till  this 
end  of  the  lake  fire  it  the  appearance  of  a  mar- 
»hr  plain,  intersected  by  Mrcams.  The  lake  U 
seen  to  more  advantage  irom  the  slate  quarry 
behind  Law. 

A  kg .  29-— After  losing  our  time  yesterday,  and 
thin  day  not  promising  more  favourable  weather, 
we  abandoned  our  designs  on  Ben- Lomond,  and 
rented  our  join  '-thwanl  ;— hVn-Lu- 

ruood's  base  and  cap  of  clouds  continued  iu  full 
view  across  the  lake  for  three  hours  as  we  skill- 
ed along  I  lie  narrow  and  sinuous  road  ;  a  steep 
woody  mountain  on  coir  loft,  and  the  clear  water 
and  pebbly  BbOTC  Ott  our  right.  Once  we  thought 
we  had  a  glimpse  of  the  top  of  the  mountain  -t  it 
wss  very  high,  but  I  am  :i<rt  mrc  that  it  reached 
rjuite  tlie  nark  we  had  made  for  it  anwn^ 
clouds.  The  character  of  the  northern  extremi- 
ty of  the  lake  if  tlut  of  greatness ;  its  head 
nitrates  into  a  dcr:  of  dark  mountains,  tl 

majestic  forms  of  which  *c  guested  at,  i 

saw,  through  the  thick  haze  hanging  01 
than.    At  length,  turning  from  Loch-Lou  < 
by  a  defile  to  .  ktill  among  high  mountains, 

another  loch  ( lurch- Longj  soon  opened  again  to 
our  \  |  early  such  as  we  had  two  days 

ago,  and,  if  possible,  more  awfully  beautiful.  The 


LOC1I-LOXG SCITSEXY. 


-  to 


opposite  mountains  roar  rwrpcndicularly  from  the 
water's  c<lge,  surmounted  with  black  pinnacle* 
*f  crumbling  rocks.  The  vulgar,  who  rirJrght  m 
ignoble  resemblances,  call  one  of  tin  taatic 

summits  the  CobWer,  whom  they  think  they  see 
at  work  there,  Numberless  cascades  marked 
with  bright  silvery  streaks  the  bluish  obscurity  of 
tin*  mountain's  side*.  Heavy  clouds  swept  across, 
and  changed  the  face  of  things  every  rnon 
Once  a  gleam  of  sunshine  fell  on  an  inaccessible 
spot  in  the  mrririle  of  riarknrw  and  horror ;  it  was 
so  mildly  green,  the  golden  light  shed  over  it  SO 
aofl  and  aeral,  that  it  suggested  the  idea  of  an 
opt  niug  into  Heaven.  The  high  enjoyment  a 
painter  experiences  in  such  sxencs  aa  these  is 
much  alloyed  by  the  regret  of  not  being  able  to 
trft!W|K?rt  them  on  the  canvas.  They  arc  of  them- 
i  wry  transient  j  mere  drawings  are  quite 
inadequate,  as  the  beauty  com  !  more  in 

the  colouring  than  in  the  form  of  the  objects, 
and  serve,  nt  best,  as  a  memoranda 

We  stawl  here  several  hours  during  a  storm  of 
wind  and  rain,  and  dined  on  mlmon-trouc ;  then, 
the  weather  clearing  up  a  little,  we  pursued  am 
way,  not  round  the  head  of  the  loch,  on  the  other 
side  of  which  our  road  lay,  bat  straight  across,  as 
rf  it  had  been  the  red  sea,— without  a  miracle, 
however,  as  the  hng  sta  hi*  tides,  and  the  red 
sea  none.    The  extremity  of  Jjoch-fjcmg  remains 


3*B 


■  II-L0NC — icr.xrRY. 


quite  dry  for  an  hour  or  tw  .  tide     The 

bottom  ii  pebbly,  and  tolerably  U -vtrl,  av,i-rri\ 
with  sca-wceds  growing  on  fragments  of  rocks 

long  hUck  nets  waiting  tor  die  return  of 
their  element  and  of  their  herring*,  which  fre- 
quent this  deceitful  asylum.  I  ar  1263, 
Ilaco,  King  of  Norway,  came  here  uitli  sixty 
vessels,  and,  landing  in  thU  N  orner  of 
the  world,  plundered  it :— it  ii  hard  to  guess 
what! 

The  road  kept  along  the  opposite  shore  3bout 
one  mile,  then,  turning  suddenly  tx>  die  rigi 
Kim  a  gradual  ascent  of  several  miles  through 
unc  of  the  most  remarkable  passes  of  the  High* 
lauds,  called  (jlcncroe.  It  is  a  deep  solitary  val- 
ley, without  trees  without  culti*.  I  mt  of  the 

lure,  which  ereeiw  up  the  $U 
aides  of  the  mountains  on  each  side,  interrupt 
by  *tep«  or  terraces  of  black  rocks,  more 

ut  as  die  eye  ascends  ;  the  green  car- 
pi t  nn:ub>agjuiioverearhof  thiin,  till  thcwlinlc 
:oded  in  the  dbtance,  or  rather  elevation  ; 
and  the  highest  summits  arc  terminated  by  blacl 
caps  of  broken  rocks,  frequently  euveloj>ed  in 
heavy  clouds.  The  haziness  of  the  atmosphere 
spread  a  singular  softness  and  faintnessovxi 
whol  N" »  rumbling  stones  or  poor  frag- 

:.s  Uttered  the  even  surface.     The  la*. 
swept  clean  and  rolled,  but  it  is  by  the  hand  of 


> 


CLENCROE— MILITARY  ROAJX 


•JVJ 


Nature,  which  is  never  trim  and  formal.  Two  or 
three  hut*  >n  a  nook,  with  a  tew  trees  anil  a 
jwrtcL  of  cultivation,  only  iervi  I  to  stew  belter 
the  beautiful  nakedness  of  all  besides.  An  easy 
road  winds  up  one  of  the  sides  of  the  glen,  with 
several  stone  bridge*  over  the  mountain  streams. 
No  vulgar  turnpike-gates  break  upon  the  dignity 
of  the  place  ;  but,  at  the  very  top,  a  stone  bears 
the  following  inscription: — "  Rest,  and  be  thank- 
ful."— ■  This  road  was  made,  in  l?46,  by  the 
24th  regiment;  Lord  Ancrun,  colonel;  Duroure, 
major."     Then  below,— M  H  A  by  the  83d 

regiment,  1768."    Halfway  up,  we  met  a  troop 
of  Highlanders,  mostly  women,  barefooted  ami 
bareheaded,  with  heavy  loads  on  their  hacks, 
like  0U1  Indian  *jiiaw>*  in  America  in  appearance 
uuil  walk  j  their  feet  turned  in,  nav  n  file. 

An  old  woman  who  led,  sung  (in  Gaelic  I  pre- 
sume) a  plaintive,  melancholy  ditty,  which  our 
approach  did  not  interrupt.  It  rained,  but  they 
did  not  seem  to  mind  it.  The  rcrrospcrt 
Um:  top  was  vi  iy  .!;;i;  n  lit,  and  equally  striking. 
Foaming  torrent.-,  poured  Irom  all  the  heights, 
but  without  breaking  sensibly  the  profound  si- 
lence of  this  solitude  ; — the  eye,  not  the  ear, 
heard  their  roar. 

We  now  turned  our  backs  on  Glencroc,  and 
descended  through  Glcn-Kinglas.  A  large  pond 
of  clear  brown,  almost  black  water,  on  our  left, 


•390      ISV&IUBV— DUK£  Or  AKGYXX's  CATTLE. 

reflected,  like  a  mirror,  the  bold  face  of  tbe 
iTWiinuin  lunging  o  OU*  inmd  sup|>bcfl  a 

stream,  descending  like  a  torrent  through  (lie 
glen,  which  u  more  broken  and  rocky  than  the 
other,  extremely  beautiful,  but  of  &  less  peculiar 
character.  We  ore  now  arrived  at  a  most  com- 
fortable inn  at  Cairndow,  (87  miles  to*day.) 

Attfust  30.— From  Cairndow  to  Invevaiy,  ten 
miles,  which  took  us  two  hour*  and  a  half,  along 
the  margin  of  Loch-Fine ;  the  fourth  arm  of  tbe 
sea  up  have  met  in  four  |  the  very  busom 

of  mountains  ;  these,  however,  me  less  elevated, 
i he  landscape  has  nothing  very  remarkable 
The  rirst  s.-ght  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll'*  cattle  at 
Itiverary  ii  certainly  striking, — a  quadrangle  of 
eighty  feet  each  tide,  with  a  tower  at  each 
ner,  and  battlements  all  around.  Something  like 
a  square  tower  rising  ui  the  centre,  glazed  ail 
sound,  has  a  bad  effect ;  this  is  to  give  light  to  a 
very  handsome  staircase  and  gallery,  round  which 
the  apartments  are  distributed  ;  they  arc  conve- 
nient, and  well  furnished,  excepting  sonic 
fashioned  ugly  tapestry,  and  coloured  prints, 
the  very  worst  taste.  There  arc  twenty-one  bed- 
clambers**  which  the  housekeeper  informed  u> 


•  I  hare  aImc  «*n  in  iVniuai,  ihtf,  wW  \m  mifcaduw 
sank,  fiwty  ywrx  ago,  there  nerc  <**;  aopd  bttUaanbo- 


LOC1I-F1XK HtKRlN^-riSHMlT. 


»1 


were  all  occupied  when  the  Duke  is  here,  about 

three  months  in  autumn.    The  drr  moat  is  wide 

■ 

ami  neat,  and  very  convenient  for  the  offices. 
Two  handsome  atom*  arches  thrown  across  con- 
nect the  castle  with  a.  fine  lawn  around.  Single 
treca  of  very  fine  growth  arc  scattered  atxwt  it, 
but  moat  of  them  liavc  their  branches  too  near 
the  ground  to  pass  under  them,  and  too  high  to 
unite  well  with  the  lawn  ; — tiiey  arc  pyramids 
stuck  upon  pivots.  A  very  fine  avenue  of  lolgC 
beeches,  with  bulging  roots,  leads  to  an  exten- 
sive valley,  round  which  travellers  arc  carried 
about  six  miles,  exhibiting  a  general  appearance 
of  neglect  nnd  dtlabrcmcnt.    In  o  •  remedy 

the  extreme  ■ujialufB  of  the  climate,  certain 
enormouR  barns  have  been  construct**!  undei  the 
dispuise  of  Gothic  castles,  to  dry  hay  undc: 
ver.  Hay  was  making;  while  we  were  here,  and 
the  air  was  very  moist ;  yet  these  buildings  were 
not  used. 

This  ami  of  the  sea  (Loch-Fine,)  is  renowned 
for  its  herring-fishery,  or  rather  was,  for  nothing 
is  more  uncertain-  The  periodical  return  of  the 
innumerable  hosts  of  herrings,  issuing  every  sum. 
mer  from  under  the  ice  of  the  arctic  pole,  i< 


in  *•  attic  done      Tb»  fw>«pit»l*T  of  |li«  hniwe  mn*  hxvt 
ytnrmfa  #fccf  that  ttro*. 


SJJ 


LOCH-riXE — H£HXIVG.FJ3HBBT. 


quite  regular,  but  tl  uente  of  ihe  detach* 

ments  arc  KM  bandon  certain  coastt, 

bay*,  aikl  rivers,  and  fill  others,  without  the  pos- 
sibility of  foreseeing  these  change  J,  or  account- 
ing for  thern.  Gilpin  remarks,  in  his  So 
Tour,  1776.  that  there  were  fiOO  boats  employed 
io  the  lu*rriu<r-ti«iicrv  of  tlii^  hay  alone;  and 
the  people  of  the.  country  cxprejsed  energetical- 
ly the  prodigious  quantity  of  herring*  by  saying:, 
there  was  in  the  loch  one  part  water  and  two  parts 
Dutch  had,  a  century  ago,  150,000 
sailors  employ  t-d  in  the  herring-iwliery  alone,  and 
it  was  the  foundation  of  their  maritime 
nets  ;  *  the  English  succeeded  them.  The  fish 
mostly  taught  v  :i  during  the  night,  and 

is  most  plentiful  in  stormy  weather,  thet- 

cry  is  the  heat  possible  whool  for  sailors. 
Ih-rrings  appear  in  July  and  August,  tin 
November  and  December.     This  remote  n 
has  troops  in  quarters ;  there  is  hardly  any  part 
Of  OrWt  Britain  without  thtm  ;  this  counl 
becoming  military  rery  fast ; — it  b  a 
very  much  to  be  regretted.     Liberty  does  not 
suffer  so  much  from  the  immediate  terror  of  the 


*TTw  Dutch  erected  a  »utue  to  *  nun,  u*mn\  William 
BuclwWt,  who  uncnltfd  the  art  of  curing,  tilting,  and  packing 
fcffrmgt.    There  is  more  uun  one  road  » tbt  tempk  of  Fane. 


LOCH-AWC— DALMALLT 


393 


bayonet,  as  from  the  unavoidable  influence  this 
prodigious  military  establishment  throws  into  the 
laiuU  of  government.  It'  this  state  of  thing* 
should  last  twenty  years,  the  habit  would  be 
formed,— the  spring  of  liberty  worn  out,— and 
it  would  be  impossible  to  regain  what  had  been 
lost. 

August  31. — From  Iiivemry  to  Dulmally,  16 
miles  ;  thence  to  Tyudrum,  12  mile.*  i— the 
whole  road  so  hilly  tlwt  we  could  not  get  ou 
more  than  throe  miles  an  hour.  On  leaving  In- 
vciary  we  drove  through  another  part  of  the 
Duke  of  Argyll's  park,  much  betttf  worth  see- 
ing than  our  ride  of  yesterday  ;  it  also  is  a  valley 
between  two  woody  hills,  and  a  noi»y  little  river, 
—but  ail  better  of  the  kind.  About  three  miles 
from  the  castle,  a  young  Highlands  came  out 
of  the  wood  to  ask  us  for  our  money  ,  without 
criminality,  however,— -ottering  very  civilly  to 
guide  Ui  to  :i  tall  of  water  within  hearing.  He 
fal  us  by  the  \uml  path  to  the  best  -laUnn  from 
whence  .tu  view  a  most  finished  little  cataract, 
made  wholly  by  the  hand  of  nature,  except  » 
rustic  bridge  over  it. 

About  hail' way  to  Dalmally,  a  height  brought 
m  suddenly  in  full  view  of  a  beautiful  lake 
(Loch-Awe),  on  the  opposite  aide  of  which, 
about  two  miles  across,  the  wide  front  of  an 
enormous  mountain  rose  suddenly  from  the  wa- 


*H 


DA LM ALLY — I!A^-MAKIN(i. 


tor,  literally  -.vM^k  aj  ink,  from  Ihed 
cast  over  it,  by  tiie  cap  of  clouds  round  its  sum 
I  a  few  rays  of  sun  upon  the  island  in  the 
lake,  and  upon  our  tide  of  tiie  banks,  rendered 
the  contrast  more  striking.  On  a  projecting  point 
tf  low  bod,  almost  detached  from  the  chore, 
stood  an  old  ruined  caitJc  of  the  EarU  of  Bread- 
alhane,  of  very  picturesque  effect.  Also,  on  the 
other  side  a  good  modern  house,  with  lolly  plan, 
tations, — much  preferable  to  the  feudal  magnHI. 
cenoe  which  the  old  earth  brought  to  our  mind*. 
A  continuation  of  line  mountain  scenery,  with 
bold  outlines,  and  all  black  with  shade  from  the 
same  cause,  clouds  round  their  vimmits,  carried 
us  to  Italmolly,  the  northernmost  point  of  our 
i.ded  tour.  The  people  were  making  rm\ 
and  the  simplicity  of  their  mode  of  trampoi 
it  attracted  our  attention.  Two  long  pKaUo 
poles  were  fastened,  like  shafts,  to  a  very  small 
horse,  and  dragging  on  the  ground,  slid  with  to- 
iMblt  facility  with  their  load  on  ; — this  may  be 
stWiiHnfcH  as  the  first  elements  of  carts.  T\irn- 
ing  to  the  right,  we  began  to  ascend  through  a 
succession  of  deep,  green,  naked  pastoral  glens, 
from  which*  the  retrospect,  towards  DalmaUy  hi 
the  distance,  was  very  rich  and  beautiful.  1  "he 
thrnwKcs  f<n  abotit  ten  miles,  afforded 
nothing  bait  a  succession  of  steep  hills,  green  al- 
most to  tl>c  summit,  with  innumerable 


■QUO?— PSEfcS — LAND — SHEIP. 


S9S 


streakiug  their  sides  with  foam.  At  last  sonic 
traces  of  habitation)*  animated  this  dcsart.  Wc 
saw  iiomc*a  the  wall*  of  aUth  sen  of  atones, 
ih^iiIr-i  without  mortar, — thatched  with 
rurJiea  or  coarse  grass— the  floor,  earth, — hlack 
peat  and  dirt  in  heap*  all  around,  with  their  usual 
draining ;  women  ami  chiidren  barefooted  amidst 
all  this  and  looking  healthy  and  strong.  Tin- 
bodies  of  the  men  wrapped  up  in  the  national 
plaid,  thighs  and  knees  naked,  and  the  antique* 
looking  tartan  hose ;  in  their  looks  the/  recall 
the  idem  of  Roman  soldiers, — in  habits  that  of 
American  savages  ;  the  aarno  proud  indolence,— 
tin-,  smote  c,areli*aan«jaJ— iiic  same  superiority  to 
want, — the  same  ootiratre, — die  same  hospitality, 
-—and  unfortunately.  I  hear,  the  same  liking  for 
spirituous  liquors.  We  saw  cowr  and  patches  of 
potatoes  i  peat  is  plenty.  I  am  Mirpriscd  pot  to 
have  seen  hogs  among  their  other  tilth,— it 
woukl  be  more  excusable.  A  drove  of  dwarf 
horses  past  us,  no  bigger  than  calves,  but  strong 
and  active. 

The  Karl  of  Brcadalb»nc*a  estate  extends  fis 
mile*  west  of  Tyndruiu,  awl  faxtlier  cast,  mostly 
sheep  pasture,  and  said  to  bring  him  L.40,000 
a-jr car.  Some  tarms  rent  for  L.  1  £«>  a-year,  and 
feed  ;  000  sheep;  ti»c  number  of  acres  not  known. 
The  surface  is  so  cut  up,  and  in  parts  inac* 


396         AN  INN  —  HONESTY  OF  THE  PEOPLE. 

Lie,  that  they  do  not  sarvcy  the  farms.  Tbc 
lease*  axe  generally  for  nineteen  years.  There 
scarcely  ever  any  nccesMty  of  providing  food  for 
the  ;hcrp  in  winfa  ,  ;i  the  anov.  neTtf  lies,  arnf, 
when  xrmM  6fls,  the  sheep  feed  on  the  heath  ox 
heather,  as  it  is  called  here,  with  which  the  rocks 
are  covered ;  it  i*  now  in  bloom,  mid  all  over 
light  purple,  exactly  the  colour  of  <  >.   In- 

stead of  whratcn  bread,  which  is  not  good  here, 
they  have  oat-cakes,  very  thin.  Dot  raised,  and,  to 
appearance,  made  of  bran  instead  of  flour,  yet  to- 
lerably good.  Hie  inn  where  wc  now  are  arri- 
ved for  the  night  i3  on  the  highest  inhabited  spot 
in  Ni*otland  ;  it  haa  aJso  (lit;  reputatinu  of  being 
tbc  worrt  and  dirtiest  inn  :— we  have,  however, 
been  put  in  possession  of  two  good  rooms,  ami 
neat-looking  beds,  and  think  it  rloe»  not  deserve 
its  reputation.  'Hie  English  are  spoiled  child- 
ren. By  travelling  so  conveniently  at  home,  they 
become  unable  to  bear  the  smallest  inconveoi- 
cnoe  abroad  j  at  the  same  time  that  habit  blunts 
tlie  enjoyment  of  their  lubitual  comfort*  Tlic 
i  :iv  lias  its  source  near  here,  and  flows  east, 
while  other  waters  in  the  neighbourhood  run 
rncst 

Notwithstanding  the  apparent  poverty  of  the 
country,  the  propensity  of  the  people  to  careless 
ease  and  drinking,  and  the  ancient  feudal  habits, 


K1LLEK — COTTAGER 


#7 


vhkh  sanctioned  plunder,  at  leant  between  neigh- 
bouring clans,  it  is  very  remarkable,  that  the  inns 
of  these  mountains  luve  hardly  any  fastening, 
and  the  heavier  baggage  of  travellers  remains  on 
the  carriage  out  of  doors,  all  night, — for  there 
are  of  course  no  coach-houses ;  yet  all  the  trea- 
sures contained  in  a  frank  of  clothe*  do  not 
tempt  people,  who  have  scarce  a  shirt,  to  steal 
it !  Surely  poverty  of  this  sort  need  no:  be  piti- 
ed, and  should  much  teas  be  despised. 

Tlicfoshion  of  planting  pines  in  com  pact  squares 
has  readied  these  high  regions.  We  are  allocked 
to  sec  black  patches  of  young  pines  cn  iitiUsvtt, 
disfiguring  the  sides  of  noble  mountain*.  It  is 
plain,  however,  that  this  country  need  not  want 
wood,  and  will  not  want  it  long.  Not  only  pines 
mil  [arches  grow  rapidly  here,  but  1  have  seen 
shoots  of  three  feet  a-ycar  in  a  coppice  of  oaks, 
Sept.  1- — To  Killin,  only  21  miles  to-day, 
Kjtrough  much  the  same  sort  of  country  as  yes- 
terday j  tflen  alter  gjfan*— green,  and  bare,  and 
deserted,  with  towering  hills  all  round  ;  one  of 
them  seemed  to  have  the  form  of  an  hnmefiSt 
crater* — a  hollow  cup, — but  all  the  detached 
manCM  below  were  granite  and  ilii;itis,  and  no- 
thing volcanic.  Beautiful  pieces  of  quartz  lay 
about  everywhere  Some  of  the  hills  could  not 
he  less  than  2000  feet  high.  The  Tay,  an  incon- 
siderable mountain  torrent,  descended  with  its 


the  whole  day-  The  quoliob  occurs  naturally 
in  traversing  tfkcse  solitude  s.  where  are  tlic  men  i 
where  arc  the  Highlanders  ?  Ami  if  you  are  told 
tlut  the  system  oi'  ^lecp-tarming  has  banished 
them  from  tlieir  country,  then  you  would  be  apt 
to  ask,  where  are  the  sheep?  Very  few  indeed 
Are  Men  ;  the  grata  it  evidently  not  half  eatea 
down, — hardly  touched,  indeed,  in  many  places. 
We  met  to-day,  however,  with  several  habita- 
tions, and  we  entered  some  of  them ;  a  small  pre- 
sent ww  willingly  received,  and  served  a*  a  pa*i- 
|ucL  to  our  curiosity.  The  only  duor  w  common 
to  men  and  beasts  and,  of  course,  very  dirty. 
V..u  *ec,  as  you  come  in,  on  one  side  a  small 
stable,  which  seesns  very  unnecessary,  sine 
the  much  more  rigorous  climate  of  North  Ame- 
rica, cattle  have  commonly  no  •  n  winter. 
Tlie  other  side  in  separated  by  a  rough  partition ; 
ii  the  dwelling-place  of  the  family  ;  you  fiml 
in  it  not  I  i  y.biU  a  fire-place  on  the  ground, 
with  a  few  stones  round  it,  immediately  under  a 
hole  in  the  roof;  a  hook  and  chain  Hastened  to 
a  stick,  to  hang  an  iron  kettle  on  ;  a  deal  table  ; 
a  piece  of  board,  on  which  oat-cakes  are  prepa- 
red ;  a  dresser,  with  some  little  earthen-ware ; 
an  old  press  j  a  pickling-tub  for  mutton  ;  aorrse 
pieces  of  mutton  hang  in  the  smoke,  which  wind* 
round  them  on  its  way  to  the  roof;  ;i  shelf  with 
many  cheeses,  and  among  Die  cheeses  a  few. 


KltLl-N C0T7.\ 


:;:.. 


i>ook*.  The  titte  of  one  of  them  was,  "  Se*r- 
mona  k  Mr  tiobhann  Mac  Dtarrmul,  minister 
ano  in  i.ilascho,  agu*  t*a  IHwigli  ?in  an  cortui. 
DgtteuKltdu  Hhumstr  le  l-kimii,  1804."  An- 
other waa  a  catechism,  aba  in  the  Erse  or  (indie, 
and  a  Bible  in  English,  lite  beds  were  a  filthy 
mattraas,  and  a  filthy  blanket, — no  sheet? 
floor,  only  the  ground  trodden  hard  j  a  window 
of  four  small  pane*,  not  one  entire.  I  the 

interior;  and  to  finish  the  picture  of  these  hovels, 
each  has  its  ladder  against  the  roof;  cither  to 
the  progress  of  fire,  when  the  thatch  happens  to 
catch,  or  a  leak,  which  they  do  by  means  of  a  few 
•ods.  Sonic  of  the  rooft  bore  a  luxuriant  crop 
of  irrass.  This  rs  abject  poverty,  or  at  least  ap- 
pears *o ;  yd  these  people  feel  no  want,  and  en- 
joy health,  which  i9  more  than  many  do  who  are 
rich.  Their  poverty  docs  not  seem  to  extend  to 
lood,  lor  they  have  plenty  of  fiat  ftoffl  their  lake* 
rivers  ;  and  one  acre  of  potatoes  can  feed  a 
ilv.  They  have  also  a  small  field  of  oats; 
meat  is  not  probably  very  scarce  near  such  flocks 
ecp,  and  I  saw  bogs  to->l  >el  rs  at  their 

door.  Labour  is  paid  ft.  6d.  or  3i.  a-day.  With 
uich  means  of  subsistence,  I  do  not  understand 
what  tbc  Highlanders  gain  by  migrutingto  Amc- 
Wkb  some  labo«u-,  they  can  procure  here, 
what  is  not  to  be  had  there,  without  labour. 
There  are  schools  here  everywhere;  children 


400 


learn  to  read  in  English  and  Rim-  ;  but  the  hat 
language  alone  is  in  common  u 

As  we  approached  KilJin,  the  scene  changed 
al  at  once,  without  any  perceivable  difference 
in  soil  or  situation ;  the  glen  became  cultivated, 
ami  covered  with  luxuriant  crops  of  grain,  hay, 
potatoes,  &c,  substantially  d  with  stone 

fence*.     A  good  house,  with  tine  planLv 
rviuml  it,  and  an  appearance  of  wealth,  indicated 
be  source  of  these  improvements, — 
capital  liad  stimulated  industry.     Other  g< 
men's  tin: :      .    i   .  :  :  ,  appear- 

ed in  succession; — then  Loch  T;i\  in  the  dis- 
tance* and  the  fertile  valley  of  KiJIin,  decorated 
with  groves  of  fio  I  he  lay,  and  another 

.  river  uniting  in  front  of  this  valley,  form 
the  lake,  win  liefore  the  eye,  Itctweeu 

two  screens  of  mountains.     Theme  1 1  -cra- 

ted formerly  the  lands  of  two  great  families,  the 
Brcada)  banes  and  the  Marnabs,  and  their  respec- 

cemeteries  are  shuwn  on  two  islands  funned 
by  thcac  rivers.  That  of  the  Maciialn  b 
picturesquely  situated,  in  the  middle  of  foaming 
cascades,  and  all  overshadowed  with  tall  pine*. 
The  last  chief  of  this  feudal  race  died  but  a  few 
years  ago  ;*  and  the  people  of  the  country  tell 


•  TW  Laird  of  MkooI>,  uw  ■uiior  is  informed,  w»  ali«c 
tod  <*cH  wnsn  tin*  above  wi»  writtca,  but  e  »inc*  dead —  '• 
to  Srocxd  Rfrlitn. 


TAY110UTI1— MODNTAI3CS. 


40  J 


strange  stories  about  him.  He  seems  to  have 
had  tiic  bodily  strength,  with  the  intemperate 
habits  and  rude  manner*  of  the  heroes  of  Homer. 
Unfortunately  for  him.  tbfil  age  is  not  epic,  and 
he  will  not  be  sung.  The  heroes  of  our  days  are 
esscnuaily  ties  kcrosde  cabinet.  This  one  has  lefl 
a  posterity  of  thirty  or  forty  little  Macpaln,  with- 
out having  ever  bocn  married.  The  tomb  of 
gal  b,  we  understand,  in  this  neighbourhood,  and 
I  give  here  a  very  good  drawing  of  it,  which  1 
received  front  an  Bninont  artist,  Mr  Williams  of 
Edinburgh. 

September  2- — Taymouth,  16"  miles  to-day  in 
five  hours,  die  road  ascending  and  descending 
continually  along  the  banks,  without  any  appa- 
rent use-  The  lake,  which  wns  always  in  sight, 
U  from  one  to  three  miles  broad.  The  o|it>< 
shore  is  an  amphitheatre  of  mountain  J  Jen- 
la  wen  in  the  foreground,  and  in  the  distance 
Benmore,  4000  feet  high,  the  highest,  but  one, 
of  the  British  mountains.  The  mere  snowy  cap 
on  the  Itcad  of  -Mont  lilanc — t-hat  part  only  of 
iiuiuit  upon  which  snow  never  mt'.lti,  has 
'■ely  that  dimension,  and  it  is  only  about 
the  fourth  part  of  the  height  of  Mont  Blanc. 
The  British  mountains  arc  only  a  miniature  of 
the  Alps ;  seen  near,  the  effect  is  the  same,  for 
the  eye  cannot  embrace  more  than  die  base ; 

VOL,  I.  fl  C 


402       TATMOUTH— FALLS  AND  HERMITAGE. 

but,  from  a  distance,  the  appearance  is  totally 
diflcrcnt.  Nothing  here  U  comparable  to  the 
greatness  and  boldness  of  the  Alps.  Independ- 
ently of  Uic  snow  and  the  glaciers  those  grani- 
tic needle*  of  the  Alps,  shooting  up  to  the  - 
without  being,  properly  speaking,  very  pictu- 
resque, at»  the  most  striking  objects  it  is  possi- 
ble to  conceive. 

To-day  being  Sunday,  the  road  was  full 
country  people  going  to  church,  in  their 
attirc.    They  were  all  clean  anil  decent    Alwui 
lialf  the  men  wore  the  kilt,  and  tartan  hose, 
plaid*  over  their  Moulders,  and  they  looked 
The  women  by  no  means  handsome,  nor  indci 

men,  hut  healthy  and  active-  The  men  ge- 
nerally touched  their  haU  or  highland  bonnet  as 
they  parsed  by  Oft.  We  were  rather  ashamed  of 
mil  Sunday  travelling. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Tay mouth,  we 
alighted  to  go  up  the  hill  to  Lord  Brcadalbaoc's 
tails  and  hermitage,  which  were  in  our  list  of 
<  nriosities.  With  a  stroke  of  the  wand,  a  guide 
started  up.  Armed  with  umbrellas,  for  it  rains 
always,  we  followed  him,  and  after  climbing  up 
lor  twenty  minutes,  we  reached  the  foot  of  the 
first  fall,  which  burst  out  very  finely  from  under 


*  Thi-  pl»d  i*  tiurv  jard*  long,  and  one  and  a  half  broad, 
without  m  .in. 


TArMOt'TH — TXtLS  AND  HERMITAGE.        403 


a  stone  bridge  of  one  arch,  perched  upon  rocks 
fifty  feet  above  our  head.  Descending  with  the 
stream,  wc  soon  came  to  another  fall  of  a  different 
choructer;  then  by  a  path  through  a  grove  of 
trees  to  a  dark  passage  of  some  length,  at  the  end 
of  which  the  guide,  who  understands  his  busi- 
ness, opening  a  door  to  the  hermitage  suddenly, 
the  great  fall  appeared  before  us  in  all  its  glory. 
The  water  tumbles  dowti  a  height  of  240  feet, 
party  sliding,  partly  falling  over  the  face  of  the 
rock.  It  is  received  in  a  fine  natural  basin  of 
rocks,  ulii'iiri;  at  riuitimuvt  pouring  down  the  hill. 
From  a  convenient  teat,  placed  on  puqjose  be- 
fore thewindow,  precisely  in  front  of  the  cataract, 
nd  at  half  its  height,  your  eye  embraces  the 
hole  of  it,  and  loses  nothing  of  it*  accompani- 
cuts.    Bftautfcfl  of  nil  sorts  g  being  partly 

hid,  and  charms  half  veiled  arc  the  more  charm- 
ing. This  maxim  has  certainly  been  overlooked 
here,  and  the  fault  b,  that  you  SCC  too  well.  The 
idea  ot  this  grotto  or  hermitage  was  obviously 
suggested  by  the  situation  of  the  projecting  rock 
on  which  it  is  built.  Nature  had  placed  this 
shelf  of  rock  there  evidently  for  the  benefit  of 
tourists ;  the  noble  proprietor  had  no  right  to 
defeat  her  kind  intention,  and  merely  built  i  roof 
over  this  point  of  obWfltioTJ  ,  perhaps,  how- 
ever, not  with  sufficient  simplicity.  There  is  s 
book  on  the  table  of  the  hermitage,  in  which 


104 


TATMOUTH — DVXKKLT). 


travellers  inscribe  their  names  and  we  followed 
the  custom     The  grounds  appear  well  bud  out. 

The  arable  laud*  of  Lord  ikeadalbane's  estate, 
about  here,  arc  »*-  or  SOs.  an  acre,  with 

privilege  of  pasture  on  wme  oooHDans ;  but  the 
leases  are  old,  and  will  command  a  far  greater 
at  their  expiration.  Labour  i$  low  here,  Ss. 
in  summer,  and  Is.  6d.  or  even  Is.  2;l.  in  winter. 
This  is  a  vei  fid,  fine  little  village,  just  at 

the  outlet  of  Loch-Tay,  and  the  bcgimiing  of 
the  river  of  the  same  name.    It  was  built  by  Lord 
RrradallKuic,  a5  well  as  its  beautiful  bridge 
excellent  inn. 

September  3.— Ihinkcld,  S3J  mile*.  It  rained 
i  J  last  night;  mid  wc  set  out  tl.ii 
rooming  on  loot,  as  soon  as  the  rain  ceased,  to 
view  Lord  Breadalbane's grounds.  They  arc  laid 
out  rather  in  an  old-fashioned  way,  with  avenues 
and  smooth  moss  walks ;  but  the  moss  is  so  ad- 
!  >ly  neat  and  soft*  and  tiic  trees  form  such  a 
lofty  impervious  arch,  with  the  true  Gothic  angle 
and  ribs,  that  we  were  quite  delighted.  Some 
beeches  only  seventy  years  old,  are  remarkably 
large.  Tl»e  site  is  nearly  flnr,  yet  there  arc  fine 
views  of  tlir  liH.li,  the  rive*  Tny,  and  the  moun- 
tains, with  the  tower  of  the  church,  in  the  fore- 
ground. Lord  Breadalbane  is  building  a  ci 
much  on  the  plan  of  tbc  Duke  of  Argyll' 
In  vcrary,  but  larger,  audio  abetter  style.    The 


KOras;  FALL. 


405 


quadrangle  is  about  a  hundred  feet  every  way, 
ami  wings  arc  to  be  added  to  it. 

Our  chaise  had  gone  round  to  meet  us  at  an- 
other gate,  and  we  rode  on  through  a  rich  good- 
looking  country  to  MoncssfaU,  (won  humus  hill, 
ess  a  glen).  Here  wo  had  another  walk  of  three 
,  tirxt  up  hill  to  the  entrance  of  a  narrow 
deft,  through  which  a  torrent  of  coffee-coloured 
water  rushed  out;  then  along  a  narrow  path 
penetrating  into  the  cleft,  sometime*  on  out 
of  the  stream,  sometimes  on  the  other,  crossing 
Hover  wooden  bridges,  and  pacing  several  lesser 
falls,  till  a  tight,  tin:  greatest  I  ever  saw  in  this 
country,  and  I  would  almost  say  anywhere,  not 
eren  excepting  Niagara  (for  picturesque  effect, 
at  lr:nt,)  presented  itself.  Wc  were  then  far  ad- 
vanced into  the  cleft,  between  two  wall*  of  rock, 
two  or  three  hundred  feet  above  our  heads,  evi- 
dently rent  asunder  by  some  great  convulsion  of 
the  world,  every  project u-n  corresponding  to  a 
cavity  cm  tin?  other  side,  sinuosity  to  sumo 
limI  so  narrow,  although  widening  a  little  towards 
the  top,  that  the  opposite  trees  and  shrubs  met 
'er  our  heads.  From  this  dark  avenue,  and 
>king  up  towards  the  continuation  of  the  elcit 
all  the  way  up  the  lull,  the  same  tout  m 
to  fill  all  the  space,  bounding  over  obstacles, — 
turning  sharp  corners, — sliding  down  inclined 
)lane*»— disappearing, — bounding  out  again,— 


406 


LIQUOIU— COTTAGES. 


coming  straight  upoo  us,  nearer  and  larger,  and 
more  tcrriric,  till  it  shot  like  an  arrow  under  out 
tjttt  ■  Bttkr  the  ver>'  "**■ — tnc  VGI7  extremity 
of  the  slippery  |K»tl>  which  \m&  brought  us  there. 
A  tux  at  miii,  the  first  we  bad  seen  (hi  some 
tlay^S  shone  Tor  a  Bsw  minutes  on  the  upper  part 
of  the  lull,  while  the  lower  part  and  ourselves 
remained  in  deep  shade,  aiUling  greatly  to  the 
effect.  The  late  rain*,  the  guide  told  u>,  had 
greatly  increased  the  usual  quantity  of  w&tf 
which  is,  however,  sometimes  so  much  greater, 
as  to  nil  the  ciuvun,  path  and  all,  tlien,  conse- 
quently, inaccessible.  The  brown  tinge,  by  soft- 
ening die  crude  white  of  the  loam,  is  actually  au 
improvement. 

The  Highlandt-i,  OUT  guide,  who  was  a  very 
intelligent  man,  told  us,  that  his  countrymen 
vere  very  fond  of  whisky  -f  that  some  working 
men  could  drink  an  English  quart  oi'ii  in  a  day, 
which  costs  Si.  9d. ;  but  ax  their  salary  is  rarely 
3s.  a-day,  and  halt  tbii  vinteTi  they  can- 

not be  supposed  to  indulge  thcmstl  often 

with  a  full  allowance;  yet  men  able  to  bear  that 
quantity  of  anient  spirit*,  must  have  practiced 
much  and  ofteu.  Malt  liquor?  are  in  use  also, 
but  whisky  is  pre/erred.  1  must  own,  however, 
that  we  have  not  yet  met  with  a  drunken  man. 
Our  guide  differed  from  us  on  the  subject  of 
Highland  cottages;  which  Ik  maintained  wei 


saaaaaal 


MOMESS — TAXES — IMSTORE. 


w 


quite  good  enough.  The  people  do  not  feci,  be 
said,  the  want  of  belter  dwellings*  they  would 
not  be  happier  in  them,— and  would  cease  to  be 
the  hardiest  soldiers  and  sailors  of  Great  Britain. 
We  understood  that  some  of  the  Highlanders 
who  went  to  America  had  returned,  and  many 
more  would,  if  they  had  wherewithal  to  pay  their 
passage.  The  rent  of  the  worst  huts  with  a  few 
roods  of  ground  for  potatoes,  is  often  u  low  as 
5s.  a-ycar.  They  have  a  tax  (hearth-money)  ol 
4s.  6d.  a-ycar  to  pay,  but  it  is  not  strictly  levied. 
The  window-tax  begins  at  seven  windows,— a 
number  far  above  their  mark.  A  horse  under 
thirteen  hand*  i%  not  taxed,  and  one  of  that  size 
would  pass,  in  the  Highlands,  for  a  dromedary. 
We  were  even  told  that  taxable  horses,  instead 
of  12s.  6d.,  arc  rated  at  Ss.  6d.  in  favour  of  small 
farmers,  whose  rent  is  below  L.  10  sterling  a-year. 
It  appears  to  me,  therefore,  that  the  Highlanders 
pay  no  direct  taxes  ;  and  of  those  on  consump- 
tion, they  do  not  seem  liable  to  any  but  that  on 
whisky.  One  acre  of  good  pasture  in  the  vallie* 
in  a  sufficient  allowance  for  six  sbcep,  with  scarce- 
ly any  assistance  from  hay  and  turnips  during 
the  winter.  The  pastures  on  the  hills  cannot 
support  any  thing  like  that  proportion  uf  sheep. 
They  perish  sometimes  in  the  snow ;  as  many  as 

thirty  have  been  found  dead  together,  although 

II 


ill-i 


M0XES8 — TOPULATIOK. 


they  can  live  a  week  buried  partly  under  the 

aww. 

Lonl  Krc-ulaltnoc  bought  Uic  estate  where 
Mo«it*M  Fall  ii  situated,  twenty- tli re e  yean  ago, 
lor  L.l»,ooo,  now  worth  L.36»ooa  Hh  Ii 
wliidt  were  for  nineteen  years,  and  which  ai 
now  expiring,  might  be  raised  from  fiO»-  oa 
an  acre,  to  SOv  or  «)i. ;  hit  hh  teiMiiu,  who 
apeak  of  him  with  affection,  hope  he  wiH  onfy 
double  his  rent*. 

IY'imant,  who  was  in  Scotland  forty  yean  ago, 
say*,  th»i  Lord  lkcadaJbanc  could  travel  one 
hundred  miles  on  hit  own  estate,  in  a  strair 
line.  A  nart  of  ilia  increase  of  Pert  of  land  in 
Scotland  is  to  be  ascribed  to  the  great  cJuuige 
which  ha*  taken  place  in  the  industry  of  the  peo- 
ple.— to  the  great  capital  in  agriculture, — and 
better  division  of  labour,  by  meant  of  larger 
(amis,  'lln:  Statistical  Account  of  Scotland  of 
Sir  John  .Sinclair  bm  :i  curious  fart  in  po 

Tli  i  ik  of  North  List,  containing  S2I8  ioh*. 
bftxmts,  employed,  at  the  time  he  wrote,  iGOO 
hofltci  ;  every  little  farmer  having  the  cattle  and 
imi  i  ■;  that  would  have  been  sufficient  for  a 

h  larger  farm. 

We  saw  this  morning,  upon  a  rising  ground 
near  the  Tay,  a  number  of  upright  stones  in  a 
circle,  which  appeared  Druklical.    At  Logicrait, 


ilOXD RUMBLKSe  BR!0. 


tQg 


I 


where  the  river  must  be  crossed  to  go  to  Blair, 
we  found  it  had  risen  over  it*  banks;  there 
giving  up  Blair,  we  proceeded  to  Dunkcld.  The 
hanks  of  the  Tay  near  Dunkcld  arc  highly  be.au- 
I ;  it  was,  howi:%cr,  rather  too  <Urk  to  judge 
of  the  proopect.  The  days  shorten  wry  rapklly 
in  this  northern  region. 

Stptcmicr  4.-~Cricti;  £2  mile*.  From  Dunkcld 
we  walked  this  morning  to  the  Duke  of  Atholl's, 
a  round  of  about  four  mile*.  The  Tay  divides  the 
grounds  into  two  ports ;  the  side  furthest  from 
toe  town  is  very  beautiful,  both  near  and  distant 
views,  Wc  found  here  the  soft  moss  walk*,  pe> 
culiur,  1  think,  to  ScuUuud,  and  all  I  lie  usual 
scenery  of  English  gardens.     The  common  lau- 

l  and  the  Portugal  laurel  live  perfectly  well 
t  -i rough  the  winter,  and  are  full  as  luxuriant  as 
in  England. 

About  a  mile  further,  ive  came  to  the  Rum- 
bling Brig  fall,  a  most  terrific,  but  not  a  pictu- 
resque object.  Lower  down,  the  same  river  takes 
another  leap  in  the  Duke  of  Atholl's  grounds,  in 
of  which  is  nil  Hernutage,  as  at  the  Earl  of 
Breadalbane's,  much  more  decorated,  and  there- 
fore in  worse  ta&tc  The  Duke  of  Atholl  has 
covered  a  w1m>Ic  country  with  plantations  of 
(f.'wus  $ikt»trtS))  and  larches ;  not  mere 
patches,  but  entire  mountains, clothed  with  trees. 
One  of  these  larches,  planted  sixty  years  ago, 


410    wood— wans  or  L.*jcn— pom-latiok. 


lately  cut  down,  yieldrd  ISO  fret  or  timber.  Tie 
trees  arc  rirrt  nusfcd  in  nur*cry-bcds,  and  tran 
planted.  I  should  have  thought  that  sowing  on 
;  mi  at  regular  distances,  turning  up  a  spade- 
ful before  dropping  the  Kcd,  would  have  been 
better  ami  cheaper. 

The  price  of  labour  seems  licrc,  and  all  over 
Scotland,  something  more  than  in  England ;  the 
icnce,  however,  is  not  great.  Arable  land 
rents  at  1-5  and  L.4,  and  even  L.6  an  acre. 
Small  farm*  of  40 or  50  acres  arc  united  in  fcirm* 
of  500  or  300  acres,  or  turned  into  pastures  for 
sheep;  and  the  diminution  of  population  rcsul 
Jng  from  this  new  order  of  things,  is  made  su 
cieoUy  apparent  by  the  clusters  of  munJinlutcd 
cottages  vrc  meet  falling  in  ruins.  The  manu- 
facturing towns  and  villages  of  the  Highland 
fill  up,  in  a  proportion  more  than  equal  to  thi 
depopulation  of  the  country  ;  tor  the  cenv 
1755,  gave  $56,000  inhabitants  to  the  Highlands, 
and  the  one  of  J  801 ,  297,000.  This  new  popula- 
tion is  better  lodged,  better  clothed,  and  better 
fed  than  the  old  ;  but  it  is  certainty  composed  of 
men  less  robust  if  not  less  courageous.  It  is  less 
cfflciCPt  for  any  tiling  but  the  useful  arts;  and 
(Hrobably  less  respectable  than  the  old.  This  is 
a  subject  on  which  much  might  be  said,  and 
wbiejl  aftbrds  scope  for  eloquence;  but  Lord 
Selkirk  has  treated  it  in  a  manner  so  luminous 


LEASES-— CLAX5— IIEVKMt'E, 


;:i 


and  satisfactory  as  to  silence  objections  and  al- 
mwt  regrets  at  ilnMixtincLiun  nfn  rliivalrousracc, 
whew  existence,  after  all,  was  incompatible  with 
a  government  of  laws,  and  with  the  progress  of 
civilization  ;  the  feudal  virtue*,  with  all  their 
splc  ndour  and  heroism,  bcin#  oidy  the  pall  in  I 

I  ik  testable  vices  aud  extreme  misery. 
Tlic  chiefs,  or  lairds,  leased  their  lands  at  a 

:nt  almost  nominal,  and  never  increased.  They 
wanted  soldiers  instead  of  revenue*  to  defend 
their  live-*  and  property,  alwavs  threatened  ;  or 
ratlier  they  raised  their  revenue  in  military  ser- 
vices. And  it  is  a  curious  fact,  that  the  pn 
revenue  ot'  Highland  estates,  ten  or  twenty  times 

■eater  than  it  was  in  old  times,  affords  only  the 
means  ot  hiring  about  the  HON  number  of  men 
of  which  the  former  laird  used  to  command  the 
services  without  hire.  The  laird  treated  his  elan, 
— that  is  to  say,  his  tenants,  like  his  children,*  at 
least  like  relations,  or  rather  poor  and  inferior 
branches  of  the  Bame  family.  They  were  indi- 
vidually perfectly  dependent :— but  it  was  a  des 
pendente  of  love  and  of  enthusiasm,  as  much  as 
ot  want  and  necessity.  The  people  defended 
tbttnsdvci  with  courage ;  but  they  attacked  un- 
justly ; — they  respected  an  enemy  while  l»c  was 
their  guest,  but  they  betrayed  him  when  no  long- 


419 


1CHLANDERS— LAJTJtt — ANECDOTE. 


cr  so  ;— they  gave  liberally,  and  plundered  with- 
out mercy. 

The  insecurity  of  persons  and  property,  and 
the  difficulty  ut  communication,  precluded  of 
coursr  any  intercourse  of  trade  or  cxr  id- 

tivation.  The  people  lived  poorly,  and  were  cx- 
xl  to  absolute  famine  whenever  there  was  a 
bud  crop.  In  1743.  CumcTonot  lyoenkl,  i! 
chief  to  whom  the  ftetendcr  made  hirascftf 
known,  and  whose  revenue  did  not  exceed  L.700, 
followed  him  with  Moo  men.  Certain  other 
whose   t  f$M  oidy  L.5000  or 

0000,  joined  him  with  about  50CO  men.  The 
same  estates  produce  at  present  L.  80,000  yearly  \ 
a  sum  about  equal  to  the  pay  of  the  above  num- 
ber of  soldiers  of  whom  they  no  lunger  com- 
mand  the  military  services. 

The  following  well-known  anecdote  sets  in 
the  strongest  light  tlte  virtues  and  vices  of  that 
intereitiiiK  race.  When  the  Pretender,  after 
die  lotaJ  ro  ;  party  at  Cullodcn  in  17+5, 

waswauderingalHiuT  tin-  Highlands,  pursued 
a  whole  arm  Sdtng  m   so  many,  and 

tray i*d  by  none,    "  he  1111  one  occasion  was  obi 
gcd  to  put  himself  under  the  protection  of  two 
common  thieves,  the  Keiiutdies,  who  I 
with  faith  inviolate,  notwithstanding  they  lenew 
an  immense  re  waul    wax  offered  for  his  licad. 
They  often  robbed  for  hu  support,  and  to  supply 


1 


MASKERS  OF  THE  HTOU LANDERS. 


41$ 


him  with  linen,  they  once  surprised  ihc  baggage- 
horses  of  a  general  officer.  They  often  went  in 
disguise  to  Inverness*  to  buy  provision*  Tot  lnm. 
At  length,  a  very  considerable  time  uAcr,  one 
these  poor  fellows,  who  had  virtue  to  resist 
the  temptation  of  thirty  thousand  pounds,  was 
tnged  tor  stealing  a  cow,  value    thirty 

;*."*  It  14  said  that,  before  his  execution, 
iking  off  his  cap,  he  «  thanked  God  dwt  ho 
never  bad  betrayed  the  confidence  reposed  in 
; — never  plundered  the  poor  ; — never  refu- 
to  share  his  bread  with  the  needy  and  tlic 
stranger."  Wc  might  think  ourselves  among 
the  Aral  i-  ! 

Tin?  Highlander  covered,  with  his  own  body, 
the  body  of  hi*  wounded  chieii — never  abandon- 
ed turn  in  danger,  and  was  ready  to  lay  down 
hi*  Hie  for  him  at  any  time  ;  innumerable  in 

i  i  is  sort  of  dcvotcdncM  arc  on  record  ; 
and  when  he  took  up  the  quarrel  of  hi*  chief  i  he 
never  thought  of  inquiring  into  its  merit*.  The 
following  is  a  curious  instance.  It  was  a  great 
honour  to  he  god-fiithcr  of  the  young  laird,  ami 
the  children  <>i  the  god-father  weie  his  brothenf 
one  of  them  was  always  hit  cup  hearer,  (hi 
man.)     "  An  Kngluh  officer  being  engaged  in 


•  PtnnaoCi  Tour,  vol.  If.  p-  SW-  The  nmi*  ilory  u  told 
by  Home  Id  a  different  manner ;  he  doe»  not  hanjr,  hit  man  fur 
Staling  a  cor. 


414 


:    IIHiULANDOU. 


earnest  conversation  at  table  with  a  Highland 
chief,  ami  wine  having  given  to  their  discourse 
that  animate'  ranee  which  might  ho  mis- 

taken for  a  quarrel,  the  hanchmun,  wlio  stood 

nd  the  chair  of  hsa  Iftin),  and  did  not  undcr- 
ttand  the  language  they  spoke,  took  it  inr 
head  that  his  master  was  insulted,  and,  ujthout 
farther  ceremony,  drawing  a  pistol  from  his  belt, 
snapped  it  at  the  head  of  the  English  officer,  who 
would  have  been  a  dead  man,  if  (he  pistol  liad 

provide  dfii  . ." 

Notwithstanding  their  toipitality,  the  High. 
lander*  did  not  approve  of  a  stranger  coming  to 
settle  among  diem,  and  acquiring  landed  estates; 
they  were  jealous  of  him  j  and  his  life  was  not 
always  safe.    Gordon,  bird  of  Glen'mukct,  had 

-me  possessed  of  some  lands  io  the  territory  of 
a  neighbouring  clan,  the  Macphersons,  but  bu 
tenants  would  not  acknowledge  him.    After  long 
disputes,  six  of  Ihem  endeavoured  to  get  rid  ot 
him  in  the  following  manner :— They  eamr 
humble  and  subn  exuresiodtheu 

regret  for  what  had  pawed, — begged  of  him  to 
withdraw  the  prosecution  he  lud  begun, — and 
declared  their  readiness  to  acknowledge  him  as 
their  lord,  and  pay  their  rents.  The  laird  was 
then  lying  on  his  bed-  During  these  speei 
they  approached  hy  degrees,  Uiat  lie  might  not 
have  time  to  call  for  help,  or  to  defend  himself, 


HIGHLAKDERfi POPULATION. 


415 


being  known  to  be  a  very  resolute  man.  As  soon 
a*  they  saw  themselves  sufficiently  near,  they  all 
fell  upon  him  at  the  same  time  with  their,  dag- 
gers. This  passed  close  to  and  in  sight  of  a 
body  of  soldiers  quartered  on  the  spot. 

Another  intruder  had  his  bed  pierced  with  five 

Us,  fired  through  the  window  during  the  night. 
Foftonatcly  for  him  he  had  not  slept  at  home ; 
and,  profiting  by  the  admonition,  he  left  the 
country. 

Tin?  population  of  the  Highlands  Iras  increa- 
sed, as  was  observed  before,  in  the  last  fifty  years, 
from  256,000  to  2<>7,000.  They  consume  mora 
in  proportion,  and  export  likewise  more,  in  cat- 
tle, wool,  fish,  and  even  in  inrmntiotured  goods, 
not  only  to  the  low  country  of  Scotland,  but  to 
England,  and  to  foreign  countries.  Mountain 
postures  are  at  present  exclusively  nj>propriatcd 
to  the  raising  of  young  cattle  j  and  a  certain  pro* 
portion  of  the  land  of  the  low  cOODtsy,  formerly 
used  for  that  purpose,  is  now  cultivated  ;  differ- 
ent sorts  of  soils  and  situations  bcingthus  employ- 
ed to  most  advantage,  and  crops,  as  well  as  men, 
have  only  changed  places. 

It  is  remarkable*  thui  the  same  complaint!  of 

^  population  of  the  country,  by  the  introduction 
of  Urge  farms  of  sheep,  were  made  in  England 
under  the  reign  of  Henry  VII. — precisely  at  the 
period  when,  as  in  Scotland  two  centuries  and  a 


416         H IG IIL  AN  D&OS — LOYALTY  —BREECHES. 

half  later,  the  feudal  system  was  beginning  to 
jpvc  way  to  civil  equality  and  the  laws.  It  u 
strange  that  tlus  barliarous  government  should 
bare  subsisted  in  Scotlaud  ao  much  Inter  than 
anywhere  else)  and  no  less  so,  that,  mi  little  a 
while  after  ha  emancipation  (scarcely  more  than 
Ittli"  a  century),  this  country  should  have  made 
such  rapid  progress,  as  to  approach  so  near  a*  it 
does  to  the  state  of  high  pro  England. 

I  have  remarked  before,  that  Scotland  ia  toe 
most  loyal  part  of  Great  Britain.  Thi<  spirit  is 
I  believe*  not  leas  general  in  the  Highlands ;  and 
it  docs  not  seem  easy  to  account  tor  it,  consider- 
ing Itow  much  they  were  attached  to  thr  dynas- 
ty of  the  Stuarts,  their  own  countrymen,  and  that 
they  submitted  with  diBicuHy  to  the  princes  who 
succeeded.  Tin*  1! inlanders  resisted  King 
William,  and  were  punished  ftp  d  la  inode  dc  la 
I'endte.  They  were  afterwards  tlte  first  to  es- 
pouse the  cause  of  the  Pretender,  and  were  again 
severely  punishi  ;1.  Hut  this  time  the  vengeance 
of  I'overnuient  conferral  a  bennftt  upon  them  ; 
11  on  their  chiefs, — broke  the  IxhhIs  of  clau. 
ship— and  was  the  dawn  of  civilization  anions 
them.  There  was,  however,  a  species  of  luud- 
ship  they  were  unable  to  bear ;  this  was,  the  ob- 
ligation imposed  on  them  by  act  of  Parliament 
of  wearing  breeches.  Evading  this  paternal  Law, 
they  were  seen  to  exhibit  tlte  bated  garmeat,  not 
6 


EMIGRATION  OF  THE  HtGBLASDK&S.  417 

where  the  spirit  of  the  act  meant  it  to  be,  but  at 
the  end  of  a  slide.    This  repugnance  could  not 

subdued  ;  and  the  power  of  government,  after 
carrying  every  thing  else,  was  obliged  to  j 
litis  delicate  point, — and,  by  another  act  of 
Parliament,  in  1784,  formally  to  abandon  the 
breeches.  Now,  however,  that  Uie  point  is  grven 
i,  more  than  half  the  nation  have  come  round  of 
their  own  accord.    '1  .hland  regiments,  in« 

deed,  are  still  xans  cutetJtt,  ami  no  less  remark* 
able  for  their  bravery  and  good  conduct,  than  for 
tln;ir  dress.  IU  immodesty  ia  such,  that  1  cannot 
see  a  Highland  officer  npjx'ar  in  women's  com- 
pany, without  feeling  some  sort  of  confusion. 

The  object  of  Lord  Selkirk  in  writing  his  ob- 
servations on  the  state  of  the  Highlands  was,  to 
shew  the  impolicy,  as  well  as  inhumanity,  of  pre. 
venting  that  part  (ft  the  population  which  i 
ven  out  from  the  mountains,  from  emigrating  to 
America-  Those  who  cannot  overcome  their 
dislike  to  die  new  ways  of  life,  necea-ui  y  for  them 
to  embrace  if  they  remain,  would  not  be  very 
useful  member*  of  society ;  and  the  void  Iclt  by 
emigration  will  be  very  soon  filled  by  a  new 
generation,  born  and  educated  in  che  new  order 
inga.  Another  object  of  this  writer  was,  to 
shew,  by  a  practical  experiment,  how  Uii»  spirit 
of  emigration  of  the  Highlanders  might  be  made 
useful  to  their  country,  if  guided,  instead  of  op- 

vol.  i.  f  p 


4ia 


tMU.RVTIOX  OF  THE  tllCllLAXDCII*. 


nnaTjrj  A  colony  of  them,  transplanted  to  an  in- 
land at  Uw  entrance  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  seem* 
to  have  bad  ail  tbc  surer:-  ;  inanity  and  pub- 

lic spirit  of  the  founder  deserved. 

TJm  Duke  of  Atholl  keeps  in  pay  his  old  de- 
cayed lalxKirere;  and  I  ;un  told  it  is  the  same  with 
several  other  great  proprietors,  andproba^K,  in 
some  degree,  with  wealthy  farmers.  This  abet- 
ter than  the  poorVratcs  in  England,  which  seem 
to  equalize  the  burden,  but,  in  fact,  increase  it- 
What  the  proprietors  pay  here  to  assist  tin*  poet 
is  nothing  compared  to  the  poor's-rates  in  Eng- 
land. Wages,  however,  exceed  but  little  the 
wagesin  England,  and  yet  there  are  few  beggars; 
and  the  people,  although  let*  neat  in  their  appear* 
once,  do  not  seem  in  want.  We  heard  here  of 
peasants  eighty  and  ninety  years  old,  still  capa- 
ble of  some  labour. 

The  last  ten  or  twelve  miles  before  we  read 
ed  Crieff;  were  through  some  wHd  paste*  among 
mountains,  upon  which  we  observed  vast  flocks 
of  sheep  and  herds  of  cattle  grazing.  It  was  fine 
weather  and  sunshine,  but  the  wind  was  north 
:.i!i]  cocil,  juiil  mi  olattac  and  bracing,  that  walk- 
ip  and  down  the  lulls  seemed  no  exertion. 
From  die  last  hill  we  saw,  in  a  sheltered  va 
a  <  asUe-like  mansion,  Banked  with  towers,  fine 
old  trees  round  it,  cxtciiMve  plantations  all  over 
tin.:  mountains,  and  the  vale  in  high  cultiva 


CBUET1*— tOCFI  CARN  HE  «.!>. 


419 


Soon  after  this  we  carae  to  two  genteel  cottages, 
the  first  of  the  kind  we  had  seen  in  the  Highlands, 
rbexe  all  is  castle  or  bovef.  The  excellent  mili- 
tary road,  along  which  wc  have  travelled  90 
ntativ  miles  gratis,  ended  just  before  we  entered 
Crieff 

Sept.  5.— Loch  Earn  Head.  Twenty-two  miles 
ttvday.  About  seven  miles  from  Crieff,  we  slop- 
ped to  look  at  I-ord  Melville's  house.  This  ex. 
minister,  the  scape-goat  of  his  party,  was  made 
to  uiffcr  for  the  *ias  which  they  had  in  common 
with  him  \  an  example  which  shews  that  public 
opinion  is  not  entirely  subdued,  and  must  lie 
obeyed  now  and  then.  The  house  is  an  immense 
quadrangle,  so  full  of  windows  as  to  look  like  a 
manufactory  or  barrack*,  and  in  the  plainest  style. 
It  b  situated  in  a  hollow,  surrounded  by  hills, 
where  there  are  some  good  views,  and  a  very 
pretty  waterfall.  Four  or  five  miles  farther,  we 
came  to  Loch  Earn,  and  travelled  along  the 
north  side  of  it  nine  miles.  It  is  about  three 
miles  wide,  the  water  clear,  a  clean  sandy  shore, 
and  high  hills  all  around  ;  hut.  covered  in  part 
uith  coppice-wood,  which  does  not  look  half  v> 
well  as  bare  turf  and  rocks.  The  lake  is  pretty, 
and  nothing  more. 

Sept.  6. — Callender,  14  miles.  Our  rood  lay 
to-day  along  the  east  aide  of  Loch  Lubnaig,  nar- 
row, and  crooked,  and  wilder  than  Loch  Earn. 


420 


CALLCNDF.K. 


A  solitary  house  is  shewn,  where  Abyssiniai 
Bruce  wrote  his  travels  ;  and  he  could  not  have 
chosen  a  better  pJncc  to  have  been  isA  from  in* 
tcrruptfon.  Opposite  to  this  house,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  lake,  arc  two  huge  promontories  of 
frittering  rocks,  of  no  great  beauty  ;  they  ai 
part  of  die  base  of  Ben- Lcdi,  (God's  Hill,) 
feet  high,  on  the  top  of  which  there  are  *orn< 
druidical  remains.  The  *un  act  tliia  even! 
with  unusual  tpleadou  behind  this  mountain, 
whic*Ji  is  Mtn  to  much  advantage  from  Calltm- 
dex.  Near  this  village  we  saw  a  very  singular 
piece  of  antiquity,  called  here  the  Roman  camp 
— a  scmirireuLir  raiupiut  uf  earth,  with  ihc  river 
ia  froiL  It  is  about  fifteen  feel  Itigli,  and  con- 
stating of  a  line  somewhat  irregular  and  waving, 
forming,  here  and  there*  something  like  bastions. 
'Hits  is  not  at  all  the  usual  shape  of  a  Roman 
camp. 

We  also  walked  to  a  singular  waterfall  in  the 
neighbourhood,  the  rocks  breaking  in  huge 
■square  masse*.  Hag  prices  of  every  thing  in 
this  remote  spot,  are  astonishing.  Labour 
a-day,  and  provisions  found,  or  3s.  not  found. 
Twenty  years  ago  it  was  6cL  and  found.  At 
thai  dflM  the  rent  of  land  was  15s,  an  acre,  (1| 
acre  1-lugliab,)  and  was  bought  at  fifteen  or 
twenty  years  purchase;  now  L.3,  and  bought 
at  tliirty.five  and  forty  years  purchase.    Beef 


CALLENDER — TK01AC1IS — LOCH  KATUN  H.   4$1 

and  mutton  o<I.  tin-  weight  ludf  more  than  in 
England. 

Sept.  7- — Wc  arc  Just  returned  from  Loch  Ka- 
trine. The  distance  from  Callcndcr  to  die  Guided 
house,  is  ab<nrt  right  miic*  of  rough  roach.  Wc 
it  in  two  hours  and  a  half,  and  relumed  in  tiro 
and  have  spent  eight  hours  on  a  spot  cele- 
ttcd  for  its  natural  beauties,  and  still  more  now 
as  the  scene  of  the  roost  picturesque  poem  that 
ever  wa*  written. 

You  approach  this  consecrated  spot  with  jour 
imagination  considerably  exulted,  and  prepared 
for  KomctJung  very  wonderful.  In  tliLs  unfa- 
rourable  state  of  mind,  the  fust  sight  of  Loch 
'enachoir  and  Loch  Achray  did  not  Satisfy  us. 
lie  latter  lake  receivea  the  waters  ©f  Loch  Ka- 
,  by  an  outlet  through  the  Trosacbx,  a  con- 
fused jumble  of  rocks  and  tops  of  mountains, 
which  seem  to  have  slid  down  from  higher  moun- 
tains Benvcnuc  on  the  lei%  and  Ben-Ledi  on  the 
right,  to  bar  the  passage, 

Crip,  knoll*,  ami  motintl*,  confcuoiJljr  hurlfftf. 
The  fragment*  of  tn  earlier  world. 


of  these  odd  pieces  of  rocks  (Binean)  point- 
like  a  steeple,  is  said  to  l>c  1800  feet  high, 
of  which  b  perpendicular.   Tlie  general  ef- 


II 


423    CALLENDEtl— TR0SAC1IS — LOCH  XATBJKE. 


feet  of  this  antuchamber  of  Loch  Katrine  i*.  up. 
on  the  whole,  more  grotesque  than  great  or 
beautiful.  Wc  entered  it  by  a  narrow  di 
between  two  ramparts  of  rocks  finely  rent  ami 
broken*  and  overgrown  with  old  trees,  their 
mossy  trunk*  am!  fantastic  branches  hanging 
over  on  each  side.  Turning  the  last  corner, 
Lake  Katrine  burst  upon  us— not  in  its  full 
beauty  at  first, — but  twenty  yards  farther  the 
&ight  was  indeed  glorious.  The  following  rough 
sketch  may  render  the  dc$eripti<4i  more  intelli- 
gible. Advancing  by  the  road  cut  into  the  rocky 
b»«c  of  Bco-Xedi,  you  see,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  lake,  the  mountain  of  Ben venue  ruing  in 
blubh  grandeur,  Itehind  the  rocks  and  wood  of 
the  shore,  which  are  deeply  indented  with  I 
and  promontories.  Hie  retrospect  of  the  Tros- 
achs  you  have  left,  presents  still  the  same  aspect 
of  grotesque  wDdnetfl  which  serves  to  set  oil"  the 
■!e  and  rich  composition  of  Ben  venue.  We 
had  provided  a  guide,  who  toi>k  us  in  his  boat 
lo  the  island  of  the  Lddtj  of  the  Lake;  which 
the  imagination  of  the  poet  has,  if  not  crobcJI 
cd,  at  least  much  enlarged.  We  knew  at 
tight  «■  The  aged  oak.  That  slanted  from  the 
islet  rock,"  and  did  not  fail  to  gather  a  few  leaves 
and  acorns  which  h  ill  render  us  an  object  of  envy 
among  the  numerous  readers  of  Mr  Scott  in  Amc- 


CALLESDEIt — LOCH  KATttrNE. 


423 


ilea.  The  Naiad  of  the  Strand  was  unfortunately 
uot  there, 

uwt 


Willi  head  upraise),  anil  look  intent, 
And  eye  and  fir  mtcmivo  b«nt. 
Ami  Jock*  Hung  back,  ami  Itpa  snail, 
Ukt  monument  of  Grecian  ait. 


* 


We  next  rowed  across  the  lake  to  the  foot  oj 
nveauc,  about  one  mile  and  a  lialK  The  view 
of  the  shore  wc  had  left,  and  of  Ben-Ledi  al 
it,  appeared  thence  rather  hate  and  rude.  The 
goblin  cave  was  of  course  not  forgotten,  but  it 
is,  I  must  say,  a  mere  dog-hole.  The  episode  of 
the  women  taking  shelter  on  the  island* — the  at- 
U  n.ptof  oncof  the  soldier*  to  get  at  the  boat  by 


*24 


C4LUWDCR— LOCH  KATHIXE. 


swimming,  nud  his  being  killed  by  one  of  the 
women,  i»  founded  on  the  tradition  of  an  event 
of  that  sort  in  Cromwell's  time. 

B  day  was  very   tiru-(   ai.   upcomiap  cir- 
cumstance, iod  the  bud  nfUir.g  in  full  splendour, 
spread  over  the  wonderful  landscape  of  Loch  Ka- 
trine its  richest  tints,  "  one  burnished  sheet  of 
4  goW." 
Returning  through  the  Trosachs,  they  appear 
cd  to  more  advantage  ;  and  we  remark*  -I  a  n 
row  and  wild  pass  on  the  left,  along  the  base  of 
Bcn-I-cdi.  which  we  pronounced  to  be  the  vcTy 
■pot  of  the  ambuscade  of  Koderick  Dhu  ; — the 
whole  teem  between  him  and  Fiu-James  was 
before  us.  I  wish  it  were  possible  to  convey,  in 
the  French  language,  something  of  the  beauty 
of  this  description,  unparalleled  for  vigour  and 
:  niih  of  painting, — for  simple,  energetic,  and  ju-t 
expression, — for  generosity  and  heroism  of  sen- 
timents, and  even  for  strength  of  reasoning.  Bui, 
-insisting  into  French  verse,  you  must  sub- 
mit to  lose  the  poetry— -if  into  iiru<e,  the  bar- 
roony  of  the  original  j  and  although  there 
be  no  hesitation  in  the  choice,  yet  it  is  a  great 
deal  to  lose  The  mechanical  harmony  of  rerse, 
is,  to  the  sense,  exactly  what  harmony  in  music 
is  to  melody.     True  putt*  in  France  write  in 
proic.     First  among  them  1  should  certainly 
name  Jean  Jaqucs  Routscau,  who  wrote  nothing 


CAIXENDEU — rOCTKT. 


425 


worth  reading  in  verse  ;  the  author  of  Paul  and 
Virginia,— of  Telcmaquc.— of  Corinoc.  If  poet- 
ry was  only  what  the  dictionary  of  the  academy 
calls  it,  /'  art  tk  /aire  des  auvroga  en  ren,  or, 
according  to  Johnson's  definition,  metrical  com- 
/unit mr*  then  indeed  these  writers  were  no  poets. 
But  they  were  eminently  so,  if  poetry  is  the  art 
of  exciting  the  imagination,  either  by  a  represen- 
tation of  material  objects,  or  by  an  imitation  of 
the  language  of  our  passions  and  of  our  affec- 
tions, and  in  doing  this  with  the  truth  of  nature, 
in  a  manner  that  all  may  feci  who  are  capable  of 
feeling  j — awakening  the  dormant  powers  of  the 
mind  to  new  ideas  and  sentiment*,  and  giving  to 
them  an  impulse  which  goes  further  tlnn  the 
written  thought,  as  fire  i*  kindled  by  a  spark. 
This  idea  was  most  happily  expressed  in  the 
Edinburgh  Review  of  Campbell's  Gertrude  of 
Wyoming-    u  The  highest  delight  which  poetry 
produces  docs  not  arise  from  the  mere  passive 
perception  of  the  images  or  sentiments  which  it 
presents  to  the  mind,  but  from  the  excitement 
which  is  given  to  its  own  internal  activity,  and 
the  character  which  is  impressed  on  the  train  of 
its  spontaneous  conceptions  ;  and  the  true  lover 
of  poetry  is  often  indebted  to  his  author  for  lit- 
tle more  than  the  first  impulse,  or  the  key-note 
of  a  melody,  which  his  fancv  makes  out  for  it- 
self," 


CALLEXDKft— fOfcTRY. 


A  vork  of  genius  often  fixes  the  attention  of 
the  rentier  lew  duo  a  merely  good  work,  arid  not 
more  than  a  bad  oitc,  although  from  a  very  dif. 
fcrcnt  cause.  The  mind  is  carried  away  from 
the  ideas  ami  seutim*  >rea»ed  in  the  Hr&t 

by  those  it  suggests,  it  slumbers  over  the  last, 
and  gives  its  full  and  undivided  attention  to  the 

stcoi 

The  poetry  of  almost  all  foreign  nations  is  dif. 
Cerent  from  the  French ;  and  those  who  are  ac- 
quainted with  the  Utter  only,  can  scarcely  foim 
an  idea  of  what  h  meant  by  poetry, — that  won- 
drous art  uf  awakening  the  mind  to  strong  emo- 
tions, by  happy  expressions,  and  wool*  of  magic 
import,  i  r ranged  in  measured  and  iiarpjoniotts 
lines ;— of  fixing,  as  tncy  put*  some  tew  of  those 
fleeting,  namelesLf  tltoughts,  Uiat  swell  the  heart, 
and  dim  the  eyes; — and,  as  the  crowd  of  strange 
forms,  creatures  of  another  world,  and  deed 
hands  unseen,  rush  on  the  m:ud  like  a  mighty 
torrent,  01  ing  a  few  drops  from  the  Jmr- 

rying  stream,  and  giving  a  colour  and  a  name  to 
the  invisible  creation. 

I  have  often  wondered  at  the  very  great  inferi- 
ority <>l"  nil  translations  of  work*  ol  imagination. 
Thoughts,  it  seems,  which  are  not  mure  matter 
of  fact,  or  simple  deductions  from  tacts,  owe 
more  to  the  manner  of  expressing  them,  than  to 
their  own  intrinsic  merit-  To  say  dilTerently,  but 


<  AM.f.VDEK— P0KTRT. 


427 


equally  well,  what  biu  been  happily  said  before, 
u  k  often  diflicult,  arid  frequently  impossible, 
even  in  tlie  same  language.  •*  CudQiftt  homilies," 
said  Bacon,  "  ratio nem  suarn,  verbis  imperarv, 
scd  fit  ctum,  ut  verba  vira  suarn  super  ralioncm 
retorqueant."* 

The  famous  "  qu'il  mouriit "  of  the  old  Horace 
is  eminently  poet.ie.il ;  but  Corncille  chose  to  in* 
traduce,  immediately  after,  a  long  paraphrase  of 
thirteen  lines,  which  is  there  to  explain  the  sen- 
timent expressed  before  in  three  eticrgeticwords; 
and  a  is  plain  that  the  three  wort!*  might  be  sup- 
pressed without  impairing  lire  sense  in  the  least. 
Yet  the  sentiment  thus  trarufotcd  would  appear 
trite  and  exaggerated,  and.  instead  of  bursts  of 
applamc,  would  be  most  apt  to  provoke  a  quiet 
yawn  on  the  part  of  the  audience,  and  to  go 
dawn  without  any  notice  at  all.  The  human 
mind  a  naturally  deaf  to  suggestions  which  are 
not  its  own  >  and  die  thoughts  of  others  axe  not 
listened  to  without  some  very  striking'  mark  to 
distinguish  them  at  once  from  the  crowd,  and 
not  unless  a  strong  and  concentrated  meaning  is 
brought  to  bear  on  a  single  point.  New  thoughts 
in  morality  or  sentiment  are  rare,  and  there  b 


*  TliU  It  roquotvtl  frotn  ono  of  tho  uiany  tappy  quotations 
*f  Frpfotor  UugnM  Stewart'*  Philosophical  £***?*. 


42S 


CAlX&ND*:?. — POFTRr. 


httic  imagrry  that  fancy  had  not  drawn  hciorc 
IUb>  idea*  move  in  a  circle,  and  immortal  truth 
travels  over  the  world,  invisible  nn;l  transparent, 
lore  when  a  skilful  band,  by  throwing  over  it 
aocne  sort  of  cloak  or  outer  garment,  gives  it  a 
temporary  form  and  a  colour  soon  worn  out. 

It  is  generally  admitted,  tlut  men  in  the  in- 
fancy of  civilization  are  roost  poetical ;  yet  this 
old,  this  cominercial,  this  wealthy,  and  luxurious 
country,  where  cold  selfishness  and  unblushing 
corruption  arc  said  to  prevail  to  so  great  an  eat- 
hMit,  is  highly  jioeticul ;  an  J,  the  drama  except- 
ed, more  originally  so,  within  a  Tory  late  period, 
than  it  ever  was  before ;  more  profoundly  pa- 
thetic,— mure  picturesquely  descriptive, — more 
wildly  exuberant  Scotland  alone  boasts  of  two 
living  poet*  of  the  first  rank,  (Scott  and  Camp- 
bell) ;  and  lost  only  a  few  yean  ago  another  of 
the  inspired  (Burns) ;  but  who,  unfortunately, 
wrote  too  much  in  bis  native  language,  under- 
M  nod  by  few. 

You  can  scarcely  find  here,  a  person  who  reads 
at  all,  who  b  not,  more  or  Itsn,  acquainted  with 
the  poets ;  few  who  do  not  know  many  passages 
by  heart,  and  repeat  them  with  pleasure.  In 
France,  poetry  was  the  study  of  persons  of  a 
hrghly  cultivated  taste,  not  the  popular  delight 
of  alL  The  production  of  critical  refinement 
and  wit  was  exclusively  enjoyed  by  those  who 


CALLENDER — POETRY, 


4<29 


possessed  these  qualities.  The  French  poetry  ■ 
cpigramfloaltc  or  complimentary,— lively  and  bril- 
liant—or noble  and  elevated ;  but  love  spcaics 
in  it  the  mere  conventional  language  of  gallant- 
ry,—-the  beauties  of  nature  are  described  by  trite 
and  tame  epithets,  repeated  on  all  occasions, — 
and  the  bombastic  k  too  often  mistaken  for  the 
elevated  style.  It  is  at  least,  a  sort  of  theatrical 
elevation,  which  would  be  laughed  at  in  real  life, 
on  those  occasions  where  true  elevation  is  most 
required,  or  any  where  but  on  the  stage  -p  a  dress 
of  ceremony,  loaded  with  lace  and  embroidery, 
which  you  are  in  haste  to  throw  ofT  as  soon  as  the 
show  is  over.  Thus  poetical  genius,  unable  to 
bear  the  restraint  of  French  verses,  had  recourse 
to  prose,  and  made  it  more  sentimental  and  im< 
passioned  than  that  of  other  nations.  Disputes 
of  all  sorts  arc  the  more  obstinate  as  the  question 
is  leant  understood  ;  and,  in  point  of  literature, 
the  French,  who  know  only  their  own,  decide 
pi  ii  mptorily  that  it  is  the  best, — and  might  re- 
peat the  words  oi'  the  Duchess  dc  la  Ferte  to 
Madame  d<  Staal,  "Hens,  mon  enfant,—  , 
trouvc  que  inoi  qui  ait  toujour*  raison."  If,  as  it 
has  been  said,  religion  is  an  affair  of  geography, 
and  a  mere  boundary  line  uVo./e  entrc  Geneve  ct 
Rome,  it  need  not  be  wondered  at  that  it  should 
decide  also  in  matters  of  taste. 


rALKIEK— 6TIRUKC —  C.\ 


Tbe  Highlander  who  conducted  us  in  hb  boat 
over  the  lake  (Junes  Stuart),  a  sensible  man,  and 
of  good  manners,  holds,  jointly  with  his  brother, 
a  farm  of  upwards  of  9000  acre*,  pasturage  ami 
rode,  on  die  Ren-LexlL  aide  of  the  lake,  for  which 
he  pays  L.430  a*ycar;  on  this  he  keep*  1400 
sbecp.  He  could  not  tell  bow  many  sheep  one 
acre  of  good  meadow  could  support  throughout 
the  year,  but  thought  six  too  many.  They  give 
nothing  to  their  sheep  in  winter j  the  snow  li- 
lies long,  and  few  perish.  The  coppice-wood  on 
this  land*  of  equal  produce  to  the  rent  be  pays, 
is  reserved  to  the  owner;  This  pastoral  guide 
was  iu  the  grand  costume  of  his  country , 
biting  well-turned  and  sinewy  legs,  and  his  foi. 
tores  quite  of  the  hcroical  cast.  We  found  in  his 
house,  which  was  neat,  a  few  books,  and  a  very 
good  view  of  the  lake,  painted  in  oil, — not,  how- 
ever, hy  him. 

Sept.  8. — Fial hi,  Unite*  We  passed  through 
Stirling,  and  admired  the  view  from  the  Ctetfc 
situated,  like  that  of  Edinburgh,  on  an  insulated 
rock,  rising  abruptly  from  the  earth  ;  the  western 
horizon  displayed  the  chain  of  mountains  we 
have  left  in  their  hr*t  indigo  dress,  being  a  tine 
day; — the  people  in  the  plain  around  all  busily 
employed  about  their  harvest,  hay  as  well  as 
grain,  which  sccro  here  to  come  together.    To- 


STiaUXG CASTLF— DfDDTNCSTOJf.         431 

wards  the  east,  the  river  Forth,  which  forms  the 
great  bay  of  Edinburgh*  was  seen  winding  about 
like  a  snake,  five,  or  sax  miles  for  every  mile  of 
straight  line.  Although  the  Forth,  from  this 
height,  appeared  a  mere  rivulet,  yet  the  tide 
bring*  here  vessels  of  seventy  or  eighty  tons  bur- 
den, and  it  has  a  bridge  of  four  arches  ;  at  least 
Gilpin  mentions  that  bridge,  for  wc  did  not  ob- 
serve it.  This  castle  had  been  a  royal  residence, 
and  retains  some  remains  of  Gothic  magnificence. 
Tradition  poiotSOUl  within  its  extended  horizon 
as- many  us  twelve  fields  uf  battle,  mo-cly  hrtweftB 
English  and  Scotch,  in  one  of  which  Wallace 
commanded,  and  was  victorious;  the  last,  in 
1745,  when  the  army  of  the  Pretender  besieged 
H.  No  land  was  ever  oftcner  drenched  in  blood 
than  Scotland,  invaded  as  it  has  been,  in  turn,  by 
the  northern  barbarians,  the  Kocnans,  and  the 
English  from  the  south.  Heath,  rocks,  and  pas- 
turugc  have  entirely  given  way  to  cultivation 
and  inclosed  fields  which  have  every  appearance 
of  fertility.  The  cottages  arc  improving  visibly, 
although  still  covered  with  broom  and  atraw ; 
and  even  at  Stirling  and  Falkirk  many  houses  are 
utill  thatched 

Sept  lO. — Duddingston.  We  have  been  here 
two  days,  detained  by  the  hospitality  of  a  re- 
spectable family  to  whom  we  were  recommend- 
ed.    There  is  in  this  neighbourhood  a  splendid 


432      DUDD1SCSTOX — THMESUINC-MAatlSC 

house,  totally  different  from  the  Scotch  castk 

.  le,  and  rather  resembling  a  pulncc  of  Louis 
XIV. 'sage, — Lord  HopetmuVa.  The  maidens, 
although  fine,  are  a  little  old-fashioocd ;   the 

a  o«r  the  Frith  of  Forth  is  magnificent.  The 
estate  of  Lord  Roscbcny,  ah»o  in  this  neighbour- 
hood,  b  1>eauLtfuHy  situ»ted,  ornamented  witli  a 
profusion  of  large  old  trees  ;  the  house  and  gar- 
dens Otherwise  much  neglected. 

1  have  examined,  with  attention,  the  process 
ofthothrcshing-machii;:*.  Ww  v.l.rui  (gfliffaod 
Kim*-)  p:i?«r*  between  two  large  wooden  (luted 
cylinders,  by  which  the  husk  is  braised,  and  the 
grain  forced  out ;  it  H  then  received  by  a  third 

index,  with  iron  teeth  like  a  rtkttj  \>  hich  takes 
hold  of  the  straw  ami  throws  it  forward,  while 
the  grain  falls  in  the  winnowing  machine,  whence 
it  oomes  out  perfectly  clean.  The  straw  is  bro- 
koo  by  the  process,  and  rendered  unfit  rbrtha. 
ing,  but  is  equally  good  for  forage  or  litter.  Two 
horses  arc  sufficient  to  weak  the  machine,  but 
four  are  ncccvary  for  expedition.  The  cost  is 
about  L.SO,  the  interest  of  which,  and  rep;« 
render  the  process  Kill  a9  expensive  as  the  old 
mode,  hut,  being  very  expeditious,  jammers  arc 
enabled  to  preserve  tlieir  wheat  .   sheaf, 

boitt  risk  of  missing  a  favourable  market 
The  lease  of  a  farm,  mostly  pasuiragc  for  horn- 
ed cattle,  for  which  45s.  used  to  be  paid,  has  just 


MLMOX-riftUIXG EDINBURGH — ROSUX.      435 


been  renewed  nt  I„s,  18s.,  more  than  treble,  and 
in  general,  the  rent  of  laad  has  risen  fourfold  the 
last  forty  years.  It  had  about  doubled  the  twenty 
years  preceding.  It  is  much  easier  to  sell  thaa 
to  buy  land  at  present.  Tbe  wages  of  labourers 
are  about  2a.,  or  2*.  6Vl.f  something  less  tban  iu 
the  neighbourhood  ot  manufacturing  town*. 

A  sabnon-fkhery  on  the  Tay,  which  used  to 
be  leased  at  five  guineas  a-year,  till  lately,  cents 
now  for  tlic  prodigiouB  sum  of  2000  guinea*; 
not  that  tin-it:  is  mure  full,  imly  mure  industry 
in  catching  it,  and  greater  demand.  M<wt  of  it 
ii  consumed  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  fresh. 
The  herring-fishery,  being  conducted  in  the  open 
sea,  and  requiring  no  fixtures  on  shore,  pays  no 
rent 

Sept.  II.— Edinburgh,  9  miles.  Having  been 
here  before,  we  seem  comparatively  at  home.  A 
number  of  letters  wc  found  here  have  given  us 
great  pleasure.  The  invention  of  tin-  pug  i,  one 
<*f  the  wonders  of  civilization,  which  I  find  my- 
self now  and  then  admiring,  as  if  it  were  a  new 
bJe-ising. 

S*pt>  14.— We  had  yesterday  a  very  pleasant 
excursion  from  Roalin  Castle  to  Frankficld,  along 
the  E«k  j — the  friend*  at  wbofe  house  wc  were 
engaged  to  dine,  had  the  goodness  to  be  our 
guides.  The  ruins  of  lioslin  Castle  have  nothing 
vol.  l  at 


4$4 


MELROiK— II4RVE5T. 


in  tfcero  very  remarkable ;  but  the  Gothic  chapel 
near  them  h  very  beautiful.     The  walk  from 
thence  to  Fraakfield,  for  nearly  five  miles, 
romantic  as  any  thing  we  have  seen.     The  Ivtk 
is  a  rapid  little  stream  of  clear  water,  running 
between  two  rocky  banks,  rising  to  an  elevation 
of  300  or  300  feet,  often  pcfpendicuWrj  some- 
times sloping  and  shady,  with  frequent  turns, 
and  endless  variety  ;   the  mountain  ash  hanging 
in  profusion  from  all  the  rocks     Our  patil 
mostly  orer  the  level  bed  i>f  rock  forming  the 
channel  of  the  river,  at  present  partly  dry  ;■ 
sometimes  we  ascended  among  groves  of  oak  am 
ash,  half  way  up  the  accessible  parts  of  riic  bank. 
We  were  shown  at  Franklield,  meadows,  the  rem 
of  which  is  1*10  or  L.  11  an  acre,  (fvt-fb 
an  English  acre) ; — these  meadows  have  not  been 
ploughed  for  tin  n«   The  UK  of  lime 

keeps  them  in  perfect  order,  and  free  from  mow. 
On  our  return,  near  tiic  foot  of  the  lVutlai 
Hills,  we  saw  a  sort  of  palace,  begun  by  the  pcx- 
m  who  w;w  the  cause  of  the  disgrace  of  L01 
Melville. 

Stpt.  15. — Mel  rose,  34  mile*.  We  set  out  from 
.Edinburgh  this  morning,  uith  the  ha  we] 

then  which  M  have  Imd  constantly  since  w 
the  Highlands.     Salisbury  Crag  towered  abovi 
the  town  in  blue  haze.      The  country  v  . 


MELROSE— CRADLE-SCYTHE, 


435 


is  full  of  gentlemen's  houses,  and  noblemen's 
castles,  embosomed  in  groves  of  fine  old  trees, 
over  verdant  lawns ; — the  hills  covered  with  ex- 
tensive plantations  of  firs  and  larches, — cottages 
much  improved,  and  women  likewise,  yet  much 
fewer  handsome  than  in  Lancashire  and  Wales. 
The  reapers  are  hard  at  work  everywhere,  with 
their  sickles,  an  instrument  vastly  inferior  to  the 
cradle-scythe  used  in  America,  and  of  which  the 
figure  and  description  are  annexed.  We  obser- 
ved 45  reapers  in  one  field. 


1.— A,  B.  Plrot  of  wood,  about  SO  inches  long,  inserted  si  thm 


406         XELKOSC  ABBKY— STAGE-tOACUti. 


tairstaityr  ot'i««  UixlU  of  tfceacjtbe,  «d  turnip  u^oo  il 

a*1f  in  A.  and  B. 
2. — D.  E.  Another  pivot.    Both  iiivota  tacurvd  Vy  Uic  braee 

B.C. 
*W  1 .  ^  X  4,  art  rW  ta«tli  ©/a  Mrt  of  rake,  of  the  um  ltogti>, 

jroilcJ  ia  the  blaJc  of  Uit  scythe. 
♦  —5,  6»  7,  8,  Br»«o»,  BUTtng  on  tl"    axtc  <!,  I",  fend 

through the  ,uuto  alter  the  inclination  of  the 

twih  of  the  nkt.    Wedjrw  Ba  ttttt*  brace*  in  ttwir  peai- 

tfafttaihcbtvoil). 


TV*  ahoU  affaiaftua  doea  not  aid  more  than  tarce 
lo  Lbf  ««%lit  uTtn  ordinary  acjUu- 


There  are  no  stage-coaches  in  the  Highland 
We  now  meet  them  on  the  roads,  and  the  absur- 
dity of  their  construction  strike*  ub  anew.  There 
arc  twelve  or  fifteen  persons  on  the  top,  besides 
baggage,  and  accidents  arc  frequent.  These 
carriages,  and  the  heavy  waggons  with  conical 
wheels,  disgrace  a  country  where  the  science  and 
practice  of  mechanics  arc  so  well  understood. 

We  arrived  here  just  in  timr.  to  see  tin-  ruins' 
of  Melrose  .Abbey  before  night,  and  returned 
again  by  moonlight  It  was  not  quite  the  so- 
iemn  hour  of  midnight,  but  the  clock,  (for  there 
i*  *till  a  clock),  struck  ten  as  we  entered,- 
screech-owl  answering  with  a  sigh,— •*  sort  of 
long  murmur  from  among  the  ruins,— the  strong 


■■ 


MELBOSC  ABBEY. 


437 


light  through  the  tracery-work  of  the  windows, 
and  deep  shadows  on  all  the  re*t,  had  a  very 
grand  effect. 

Scpt.  10-— We  went  n  third  time,  early  thb 
mnrtiing,  to  the  Abbey.   Nothing  can  exceed  the 
exquisite  finish  of  the  carving,  the  patient  labour, 
and,  indeed,  the  taste  of  many  parts  ; — some  of 
the  leave*  are  raised  from  the  Atone,  so  as  to  run 
a  straw  or  blade  of  grass  behind,  and  all  perfect- 
\y  *harp,  and  in  high  preservation,  aAer  a  lapse 
of  BOO  years.   Part  of  the  church  was  waited  upt 
and  covered  with  a  roof  to  perform  service  in  50 
years  ago  ;  but  the  present  generation  u  grown 
more  picturesque.  All  thin  modern  work  is  going 
to  be  pulled  down,  and  the  old  abbey,  re-mined, 
will  look  like  itself.  Our  cicerone,  the  sexton,  I 
believe,  was  a  little  alarmed  at  the  sight  of  the 
portfolio,  and  pn-parationn  to  draw,  it  being 
Sunday.     He  was  toM  that  it  was  not  working, 
but  merely  tor  pleasure  ; — still  worse !  Yet  the 
idea  of  the  beauties  of  his  church  being  trans- 
mitted to  the  new  work],  at  liwt  DUtWC^hod  his 
scruple*.     He  seemed  afterward*  to  take  great 
pleasure  in  the  peiformance,  and  even  refused  to 
receive  the  proffered  acknowledgment, — cither 
to  show  that  lie  did  not  work  on  Sunday,  or  in 
consideration  of  the  picture  we  had  made  of  hi* 
favourite.     Wa  traversed  again  to-day  the  singu- 


49S 


r\TT£*n.W.R— TEBtS. 


lar  district  of  pasture  country  l>etwceii  Hawick 
and  Langholm,  already  described. 

Sept.  17. — Patter da*'c  on  Ulswatcr,  This  Jake 
lix*  already  been  demoted-  Rirtering  ibi*  lime 
from  the  cast,  it  presented  itselr'  in  all  its  glory  ; 
U»e  wonderful  back-ground  of  mountain:*  round 
its  head  in  front  of  us  for  fifteen  or  twenty  mile*. 
beeu  here  the  whole  day  muttering 
along  the  banks  or  in  a  little  boat  lOVUg  from 
rock  to  rockf  island  and  promontories.  I  tup. 
join  l«re  a  view  oi  the  lake,  and  another  t-i 
m  i>erablc  mins  of  BO  cmiriTuias  peff  trn:  iu  the 
churchyard  of  Pallerdale.  The  trunk,  perfectly 
hollow,  i*  twenty-six  feet  in  circumference ;  die 
head  is  gone,  and  the  lowest  bougha  only  remain, 
niueh  curtailed  in  their  length,  which  nuist  have 
l>eeo  very  great.  We  enquired  of  an  old  inha- 
bitant,  requesting  the  tradition  about  this  tree,— - 
how  old  it  was;  be  answered  vwy  seriously, 
2000  years !   The  age  of  a  tree  is  difficult  to  be 

;i  it  lined,  fee  it  does  not  attract  su  at- 

tention to  become  the  object  of  tradition  till  it 
hu  d  a  very  great  sire,  and  when  a  great 

iKirt  oi  its  life  is  spent,   Mr  Giipin  lus  collected, 
in  bis  remarks  on  forest  scenery,  ;on»c  curious 
facts  ou  the  age  and  size  of  extraordinary  trees, 
principally  oaki.     lie  traces  die  age  of  some 
these  trees  as  tar  as  900  years  back.   Some  oak* 

II 


ULSWATER — TKSES. 


MB 


ore  now  in  existence,  which  were  hollow  and  de- 
clining in  the  days  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  One  of 
the  colleges  at  Oxford  was  built  by  express  or- 
ders of  its  founder,  WUliam  de  Wainflcct,  450 
year*  agn,  near  the  %rtat  oak.  This  great  oak,  a 
mere  shell,  fell  of  itself  in  1746,  and,  as  it  may 
be  supposed  to  have  attained  its  meridian  at  the 
time  of  the  foundation  of  the  college,  it  gives  the 
tree  nine  centuries.  I  shall  mention  one  more  : 
Tin  tree  in  the  New  Forests  against  which  the 
arrow  glanced  which  killed  William  Rufus,  700 
years  ago,  was  still  in  existence,  marked  by  tra- 
dition, but  a  few  years  since,  and  must  have  been 
a  well-grown  tree  at  the  period  of  the  accident. 
It  is,  perhaps  worthy  of  remark,  that  all  these 
venerable  plant*  which  liavc  attained  such  an 
advanced  age,  are  equally  noted  tor  their  size, 
far  exceeding  that  of  their  fellow*  \  while  among 
animals  I  mean  among  individual*  of  tlie  same 
species,  it  is  almost  the  reverse.  Gilpin  men- 
tions a  yew  tree  at  Fortingal,  mat  Tay mouth  in 

x  fcet  and  a  half  in  cincu 
rrme.  Our  l'atterdale  yew  is  a  mere  twig  to 
this  ,  and  the  good  people  of  iU  neighbourhood 
must  give  it  full  SOuo  years,  measuring  more  titan 
few  times  the  solid  contents  oi'  the  other.  The 
family  ol  the  yew*  cs  almost  extinct  iu  England. 
They  used  to  be  planted  by  the  Britons  of  old, 
who  were  great  archers,  to  make  bows  the  wood 


440 


"INDUOttlE— *ICfl  AND  FOOJt. 


being  remarkably  clastic  and  tough ;  but,  ia 
thcae  degenerate  days,  nobody  thinks  of  planting 
them  any  more. 

&pr.  )u. — \\ mdermerc  We  bav©  scaled  the 
mm  parts  «rf  mountain*  between  (Jlswatcr  and 
Windermere,  and  admired  again  the  wild  magni- 
ficence of  the  pasa,  steeper  and  higher,  perhaps, 
than  any  we  have  seen  in  Scotland.  Wo  snail 
rest  here  with  our  friends  during  the  remainder 
of  the  fine  autumnal  weather,  making  only  occa- 
sional excursion*  among  the  lakes  and  mountains, 
of  which  this  h  the  centre. 

There  are  no  retired  places  in  England,  no 
place  where  you  see  only  the  country  and  coun- 
trymen j  yon  meet,  on  the  contrary,  everywhere 
town-people  elegantly  dressed  and  lodged,  ha- 
ving a  number  of  servants,  and  exchanging  invi- 
tations, England,  in  short,  seems  to  be  the 
country-house  of  London  -,  cultivated  for  amnfi 
racnt  only,  and  where  all  is  subservient  to  pic- 
turesque luxury  and  ostentation.  Here  we 
in  a  remote  comer  of  the  count r\,  among  mow 
tains,  2TS  miles  from  the  capital  -, — a  place 
cut  commerce  or  manufactures,  not  on  any  1 
road  ;  yet  every  thing  is  much  the  same  as  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  London.  Land,  half  rock, 
bought  up  at  any  price,  merely  on  account 

luty  of  the  spot.   The  complaints  about  acar- 
of  servant*  and  labourers,  and  their  consc- 


; 


WINDEft  MERE— RICH  AND  POOJt. 


441 


fptent  high  priori,  nxr  general.  It  i%  plain  there 
are  too  few  ptior  for  the  rioik  The  latter  ulk  o* 
the  weight  of  taxes  as  intolerable,  and  of  the  in- 
crease of  price  of  every  thing  a*  excessively 
alarming ;  while  the  poor  seen*  to  take  all  thi* 
very  easily,  increasing  and  multiplying  |  while 
the  others  decay  and  fall  off  continually.  ,  It  is 
the  pot  on  the  fire,— the  liquor  ascemi*  and  de- 
scends incessantly  ;  it  no  sooner  touches  the  bot- 
tom, than,  reduced  to  vapour,  it  ttiea  upwards  ; 
no  sooner  rames  to  Hie  top,  than,  dive&ted  of  its 
heat,  it  falls  down  :ignin.  The  proprietors  of 
land  alone  are  out  of  the  vortex,  safe  at  anchor, 
while  the  others  arc  driving  in  the  *torm.  Woe 
be  to  them  if  they  were  to  lose  their  hold,  and 
lie  carried  away  with  the  rest ; — unprepared  m 
they  arc,  they  would  suffer  mi  I 

The  rich  show  certainly  a  very  great  eagerness 
to  buy  land,  being  a  safe  property,  and  a  perma- 
nent revenue  ;  and  because  there  h  really,  not- 
withstanding the  loud  complaints,  an  inundation 
of  wealth  in  the  country.  The  effect  of  compe- 
tition b  to  raise  the  price  of  land  and  of  labour 
to  such  a  degree,  that  the  small  landholders  are 
tempted  by  the  first,  and  indeed  forced  by  the 
latter,  to  sell,  and  become  simple  fanners  ;  awell- 
ing  thus  the  number  of  those  who  have  nothing 
to  lose.  This  excessive  concentration  of  tangt- 
He  property  is  considered,  by  many  well-inform. 


4+2 


scn.u  b  MKES. 


cd  people.  a*  more  dangerous,  more  conducive 
to  a  revolution,  than  the  weight  ut  taxes,  or  any 
of  the  other  popular  sjrievances.  These  ore*  the 
pretence*,— -that  the  real  object  of  revolutionary 
people.  It  U  difficult  and  odious  to  ruin  a  great 
part  of  die  people,  as  was  done  in  trance, — easy 
and  popular  to  strip  a  few  great  proprietors. 

The  country  round  the  head  of  Wiiiderniei 
>1  with  hills  and  mountains,  the  highest  of 
which  doe*  not  exceed  SOOO  feet ;  the  lowest  arc 
clothed  with  wood,  coppice  only,  and  decorated 
with  fine  masse*  of  roefca.  The  intervening  val- 
lics  rich  and  verdant,  and  watered  by  lively 
streams,  expanding  frequently  into  small  lakes, 
(Urns.)  Theaocieut  inhabitants  arc  railed Stata* 
.  freeholders  of  the  rank  of  pcasautiy)  j  their 
houses  generally  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  built 
of  rough  jttoue,  grey  and  mossy,  spreading,  low, 
ami  i hatched  ;  a  #"  n  near  ; — the 

interior  clean  and  comfortable.  The  numl» 
Uicte  small  proprietors  ax  diminishing  dail; 

"JTic  valley  of  Longdate  is  one  of  those  we  have 
explored.     It;    lower  end   i  lake, 

whenoet  rising  insenulily  between  two  irregular 
screens  of  mountains  for  vlx  or  seven  miles,  it 
closes  at  the  base  of  the  Langdalc  Pikes,  whose 
:;n  lassie  double  summit  is  distinguished  for  20 
miles  around.  A  stream  of  water  cornea  dot*  n 
the  hill  along  a  wide  and  deep  fissure  of  the  rock. 


W!NI>tIDXE!U-.~SCB»IKKY« 


443 


between  the  cheek*  of  which  n  great  block  his 
fallen,  mul  remains  suspended,  farming  a  natu- 
ral \wu\#e  of  terrific  construction.  Wc  and  our 
friend*  forming  a  considerable  troop,  mounted 
and  on  foot,  were  attended  by  a  small  cart  of  the 
country,  carrying  provisions,  am!  tlic  sick  and 
swHiinkd  vf  the  party  on  two  bag*  of  hay.  On 
our  return,  the  sun  act  with  admirable  splendour 
behind  the  longdate  Pikes,  and  made  ua  look 
back  veiy  often.  Among  many  changes  of  the 
scene,  we  remarked  this ;— a  very  dark  ridge, 
perfectly  in  shadow  with  another  beyond  it,  and 
between  them  fiery  streams  of  light,  like  the 
mouth  of  a  volcano  in  names* 


Tliroupn  rftlpf*  burning  in  Iut  *v«tcrn  beam, 
hAt  after  \*kc  inlcirninftblj  glean. 


■ 


The  surrounding  mountains,  catching  the  bright- 
ness, exhibited,  in  sharp  edge*,  the  profile  Of  their 
bold  and  fanciful  forms.  1  tried  to  sketch  a  v  iew  ; 
i)i.(  the  play  of  light  was  quite  discouraging,  and 
the  very  grotaMjucucsa  of  some  nl  tl*e  out 
too  much  for  drawing.  An  does  nut  venture  on 
such  things  f  it  belongs  to  nature  alone  to  be 
gracefully  awkward,— gaudy  and  chaste  at  the 
same  time,  and  *'  harmonicusc  parmi  toutcs  ics 
dissonances."  Wc  were  so  pleased  with  this  spot, 
that  we  have  since  gone  to  it  again  several  times 
at  the  same  hour,  and  enjoyed  scenes  ever  dif- 


WISDEaMF.EE — PLEASURE-  BOATS. 

FcTctit  and  ever  admirable.  Ft  is  three  or  four 
miles  north  of  Clappewgate,  south  of  Skclett'* 
brid 

'Hie  lake  of  Windermere  has  a  large  island 
alxHit  the  middle  of  its  length,  occupied,  as  may 
be  supposed,  by  a  rich  individual,  Mr  On  wen,  t 
great  agriculturist,  and  considerable  in  Parlia- 
ment, who  has  built  a  bouse  on  it,  and,  on  a  pro* 
niontory  of  the  mainland,  an  elevated  pavilion, 
called  the  '  which  command*  a  view  of  the 

whole  lake ; — that  is  to  say.  of  all  the  water  of 
the  lake  i — but  unluckily  it  turns  it*  back  on  ail 
its  beauties.  Hie  choice  of  this  station  affords 
no  favourable  specimen  of  the  proprietor's  taste, 
notwithstanding  the  coluuxtsi  juries  of  hh  win* 
dowa,  which  are  considered  as  symptomatic  of  it. 

Opposite  this  island  resides  the  celebrated  Bi- 
shop of  LandarT,  wbo  has  contributed  essentially 
to  render  chemistry  a  pojmlar  science,  and  who 
ha*  defended  his  faith  against  the  rude  attacks 
of  our  noted  Tom  Paine,  in  an  ingenious  work 
with  an  unfortunate  title  This  prelate  a  dis- 
tinguished in  Parliament  by  political  principles 
uncommon  in  his  order.  On  our  way  to  the 
island,  we  pawed  :vn.i!  pleasure-boats  at  anchi 
and  under  sail,  finely  funned,  light  anil  swift. 
The  Seine  never  bore  any  thing  the  least  compa- 
tible to  the  elegance  of  English  pleasure-boat i. 
The  water  of  this  lake,  as  of  all  rakes,  is  pcrt< 


i 


WBCDERMB&E— A  STATESMAN'. 


445 


transparent,  and  admits  of  swing  the  smallest 
object  at  a  considerable  depth ; — you  con  follow 
a  pin  going  down  ten  or  twelve  tcct.  Tbc  lead 
gives  thirty  or  forty  fathoms  in  some  place*.  We 
asked  our  boatman,  who  bad  been  rowing  five 
houra  without  appearance  of  weariness,  how  many 
jreap  I  r  ]  id  followed  his  employment  ?  lie  an- 
swered, ?0  years.  This  undoubtedly  does  great 
credit  to  the  air  of  Windermere. 

Two  long  vallies,  separated  by  a  ridge  of 
mountains,  lie  in  the  direction  of  the  head  of  the 
lake,  and  seem  a  continuation  of  its  basin  ;  one- 
is  Langdale,  already  described  ;  the  other,  paral- 
lel to  it,  contains  another  lake,  (irasroerc.  A 
walk  we  took  some  days  ago  in  the  latter  '.Alley 
carried  us  to  the  house  of  a  statctmaty  situated 
on  die  slope  of  a  hill  commanding  a  beautiful 

This  honest  rustic  was  scat  rd  ■ 
placed  in  the  best  situation  lor  the  view,  u 
the  shade  of  an  ash ;  and  there  could  be  no  doubt 
that  he  had  come  to  this  scat  of  his  in  order  to 
enjoy  that  view.  After  the  usual  salutations,  we 
said  something  about  the  fine  prospect ;  but,  to 
our  great  surprise,  he  would  not  allow  that  there 
was  much  beaut/  in  it,  ami  jajd  la;  knew  we  had 
•ecn  much  finer  prospects  than  that.  It  appealed 
evident  that  be  was  ashamed  to  admire,  as  if  lie 
had  never  been  out  of  bis  village,  by  the  same 
sort  of  affectation  wtMch  \umld  have  snadcacilt- 


4  ftfl 


w  iNDEnwtaE — coNii  ro.v-  water. 


zeu  pretend  raptures  tbat  lie  might  not  be  sup- 
posed insensible  to  the  beauties  of  the  country ; — 
aflcctcil  people  arc  generally  found  to  be  the  re- 
verse of  what  they  endeavour  to  appear,  and  give, 
without  intending  it,  the  key  of  their  true  dispo- 
ne 

Oct.  6. — We  went  yesterday  to  Conirton  water 
with  oQf  friends,  and  their  friend*,  on  foot,  on 
horseback,  and  in  a  cart,  by  roads  impracticable 
in  any  other  way;  first  along  the  Brainy,  a  moun- 
I  stream  ;  then  up  the  ridge  which  separates 
the  valley  of  LangdaJc  and  the  one  filled  by  Co- 
nistun  inter.  From  the  Cop  of  it,  we  *iw  tl 
fine  piece  of  water  below  us,  deep  set  in  a  frame 
oi black  mountains,  pressing  round  its head.  The 
banks,  however,  we  found  well  inhabited  ami  cuJ- 
tivated ;  and  were  *hcw  n  tin*  house  of  the  parents 
ofa  young  huly  lately  dead  (Mis-  K.  Smith),  who 
has  since  become  so  justly  celebrated,  by  the 
proofs  she  left  behind  her  of  an  erudition  u> 
romrmm  lor  her  age  and  her  sex*  This  ramify 
were  formerly  pd  on  of  Piereerleld  on  tin* 

Wvc,  described  in  this  Journal 

The  best  mounted  of  the  party  piuhed  on  to 
the  other  extremity  of  the  lake,  seven  miles  fur- 
tlier,  which  u  merely  pretty.  All  the  lakes  \ 
among  mountains,  and  end  in  a  plain.  Here, 
therefore,  on  our  return,  we  had  tlie  fctujwndou* 
rampart  round  the  head  of  the  lake  full  in 


WlSDtRMEIE— CON'ISrOX  WAr£lL 


4+7 


the  whole  way,  towering  ovci  eadlanr. 

rocks,  or  tree*,  as  croase  d  our  road  occasionally, 
and  at  other  times  rising  from  the  bosom  of  the 
lake  itself,  in  hazy  greatness.  After  dining  at  a 
comfortable  little  inn  in  the  village 'of  Coniston, 
we  ascended,  on  foot,  the  mountain  behind,  along 
a  rapid  little  stream,  tumbling  down  its  rocky 
bed  a*  clear  u  possible.  Trees  fringed  its  imme- 
diate banks,  beyond  which,  above  all,  was  sheep 
pasture  and  rock.  When  we  reached  the  top, 
the  sun  had  been  aet  some  time,  and  the  sky, 
fine  all  day,  had  clouded  over.  A  water-fall  ter- 
minate! the  ascent,  Arid  wc  found  ourselves  at 
iJh  entrance  of  a  little  plain,  a  mere  Inn! 
place,  whence  the  mountains,  taking  a  bolder 
(fight,  rose  all  round  to  the  very  clouds,  shewing 
lure  and  there  only  a  craggy  pinnacle  of  ihiver- 
\\i£  rock*.  The  whole  scene  equalled  in  dreary 
!.;i.m<leur  any  we  had  *een  in  Scotland.  Turning 
round,  the  lake  was  below,  reflecting  a  pi 
l»ght ; — green  fields  and  white  houses,  and  I 
ol  trees  s  kinks,  all  hurniorii/  rl  in  in- 

distinctness,  formed  a  scene  of  lovelines*  per- 
fectly contracted  with  the  wild  sublimity  above. 
On  o«r  return,  we  recognize*!  Imw  ili.uely  the 
spot  or  a  view  of  Coniston,  in  Middiinan's  hind- 
scapes  with  some  soldiers  and  their  wives  by  the 
side  of  t lie  road,  ami  a  few  tall  Scotch  pines.  It 
is  just  behind  the  inn  at  the  head  of  the  bike. 


WJSDEUHCRE— ORASHERE, 


Oct.  la — Grasracrciilhe  nearest  lake  to  Win- 
11  hour's  walk  across  the  ! 
mora  by  die  road.    It  u  a  mere  pool, 
led  by  mountain*  nearly  equal  in  height, 
sloping  everywhere  to  the  water's  edg 
declivities  covered  with  crumbling  frago* 
shew  neither  rock  nor  soil,  and  exhibit  only  littex 
and  poverty.    This  at  least  applies  to  the  aide  I 
first  saw,  coming  from  Windermere,  across  the 
hill.     Approaching  (irasmere  by  the  rood,  the 
retrospect  was  more  wooded.    .Mi  Woi 
who  lives  on  Graamcrc,  was  so  obliging  as  to 
guide  us  to  some  of  it*  beauties*  wild  spots  round 
its  north  extremity.     A  small  piece  of  hind,  of 
twenty  acres,  in  his  neighbourhood,  hail  I 
sold  lately  lor  L.150O,  a  price  certainly  out  of 
all  proportion  to  its  produce. 

We  were  shewn  in  the  valley  north-west  of 
Grasmerc,  alone  cottage,  inhabited  last  v, 
by  a  peasant  of  the  name  of  Green,  hia  wife,  and 
nine  cluldrcn.   The  father  and  mother  had  gone 
to  a  cattle  loir  in  Laogdalc,  separated  from  • 
vale  by  a  mountain,     'iherc  was  a  fail  of  snow. 
The  evening  came  on,  and  they  did  not  return. 
The  youngest  child  was  only  a  lew  months  old, 
the  eldest  a  girl  about  ten  years  old ;  she  took 
care  to  feed  the  baby  with  u  little  milk  which 
happened  to  be  in  the  house.    The  next  day  she 
procured  from  a  neighbouring  farm  some  more 


WINDERMKHE QRAfl.MF.RE. 


449 


milk.  The  father  and  mother  not  yd  returned, 
another  night  pasted  id  the  same  manner.  The 
following  day,  the  little  girl  going  again  for  her 
supply  of  milk,  was  questioned,— her  situation 
discovered,  and  strong  suspicions  of  the  accident. 
The  alarm  spreading  id  the  valley,  fifty  people 
set  out  to  explore  the  hill,  and  soon  discovered 
Hie  Isodic*.  It  appeared,  that,  having  lost  the 
track,  the  unfortunate  couple  had  wandered  high- 
er up  in  the  mountain;  that  the  husband  had 
fallen  from  a  rock,  and  from  appearances  had 
died  by  the  fall.  The  woman,  warned  by  the 
fall,  bad  retched  the  Ixittom  of  the  rock  by  a 
circuitous  way,  and  groped  about  for  him  m  great 
vh3t,  the  snow  being  all  trodden  down.  She 
had  lost  her  shoes,  which  were  found  in  different 
places;  and,  sinking  at  lost  under  fatigue  ami 
cold,  died  the  easy  death  ordinary  in  such  cases. 
Some  persons  thought  afterwards  they  recollect- 
ed having  heard  distant  screams  in  the  mountain 
during  tin-  storm,  hut  they  did  nol  MUftOOt  the 
cause;  nor,  if  they  had,  would  they  probably 
have  been  in  time  to  afford  assistance.  The  bo- 
dies, followed  by  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  valley, 
and  by  the  nine  orphans,  were  buried  in  the  same 
grave.  The  latter  have  since  been  adopted,  01 
at  least  taken  care  of,  by  the  people  of  tJie  neigh- 
bourhood. 

vol.  r.  S  f 


fr» 


OJUSUSHE — KUWieK. 


Some  yean  before  this,  a  sporwman  perished 
in  these  mountains  in  a  manner  M-ill  more  tragi* 
eal.  A  dog  had  been  observed  coming  from  time 
to  time  to  the  house*  of  the  valley,  and,  after  ob- 
taining >ome  food,  returning  to  the  mountains. 
He  wu  at  last  followed,  and  the  body  of  his  mat- 
ter discovered.  He  had,  it  teen*  dislocated  bk 
foot,  and,  unable  to  move,  had  died  of  hunger 
and  pain,  and  his  faithful  dog  had  ever  since 
watched  by  hi*  remains. 

0c/.  H. — To  Keswick,  or  Der vrent water,  1G 
miles.  TIr-  first  view  on  tlie  left,  as  you  ap- 
proach it  from  Windermere,  is  bjr  far  the  moat 
itog  of  any  we  have  seen  i:i  the  course  of 
our  excursion;  quite  a  finished  composition. 
High  clifta  on  either  aide  of  the  la-.  early 

perpendicular  rocks,  broken  and  woody,  and  va- 
ried with  bold  projections  and  bays;  the  nearer 
shore  covered  with  lofty  groves  of  trees,— the 
farthest  penetrating  into  a  sanctuary  of  moun- 
tains the  wildest,  i1k>  softest,  the  most  aerial  of 
any  of  those  romantic  booth  whu 
heads  of  all  the  English  lakes.  Towards  the 
evening  of  a  fine  day,  the  oblique  rays  of  the  sun 
throw  over  this  juinhV.  «-l  fanciful  forms 
misty  veil  of  golden  and  purple  vapotoa,  Id  end- 
less changes.  There  is  just  a  sufficient  extent 
of  water  to  set  oil  'tin.  mouBtsdns,  and  mountain* 
enough  to  give  dignity  to  the  lake  ;  nothing  to 


KESWICK— SOWDER.STOXE. 


4J1 


otherwise  tlian  it  h.  On  the  right 
uige  Skidriaw  dose  at  hand,  and  be- 
be  lake  i>f  BaAseutliwahc,  at  two  or 
three  miles  distance,  with  a  rich  plain  between- 
Pursuing  the  narrow  road  (along  the  eastern 
margin  of  the  lake.)  at  the  fool  of  the  high  cliff, 
from  which  enormous  blocks  roll  frequently  01 
into  the  water,  we  advanced  towards  the  magni- 
ficent termination  just  described  ;  the  softness  of 
distance  changing  by  degrees  into  asperity  and 
mggecblttft  On  our  way  we  IftW  tlie  fall  of  I.OW- 
dorc,  in  a  woody  recess  ;  its  bed,  a  steep  ascent 
of  stones  of  about  voo  feet,  was  nearly  dry,  and 
the  stones  much  too  rounded  and  uniform  for 
beauty.  The  dtQcks  of  the  rock  on  each  aide 
are  finely  broken,  and  well  clothed  with  trees. 
It  must  be,  when  full,  a  very  grand  object.  At 
the  head  of  the  Inktr  we  1;  •  red  a  pass,  not  un- 
like the  Trosachs  at  Loch  Katrine  j  it  leads  to 
the  Vale  of  Borrowdale.  About  one  mile  from 
the  entrance  you  come  to  a  huge  fragment  of 
rock,  called  the  Bowdcr-Stonc,  62  feet  long,  30 
feet  high,  and  about  as  much  liriwil ;  this  is 
nearly  the  dimensions  of  the  celebrated  base  to 
e  statue  of  the  Czar  Peter  at  St  Petcrsburgh. 
TlK'Bovrder-Stone  luis  probably  rolled  down  fro 
the  neighbouring  heights  and  ha:  d  in  a 

ktrangc  position,  standing  on  an  edge.    The  top 
is  rendered  accessible  by  means  of  a  Udder,  and 


452 


KESirrcK — BOWDER-STONE. 


is  covered  with  a  considerable  layer  of  mi 
accumulated  by  the  common  slow  process  of  suc- 
cessive generations  «>i   lu'lu-n  and  other  plants, 

he  long  standing  of 
the  stone  in  its  present  situation.*  It  contains 
about  80,000  cubic  feet,  weighing  6000  tons.  I 
annex  a  little  sketch  of  it 


*  T  hurt  often  obaerved,  with  mrpriat,  the  Tery  little  ilfpUi 
of  **g#akh  mould  in  the  Amartour  foraat*,  aaOaw  wl«av  thare 
ha*  been  an  accidental  accuujularioo  On  a  dead  let**,  thai 
(k.«tu  i*are»!y  nrfr  eaearil*  ah  inche*.  And  jc*r.i»rally  b  only 
hair*  tluc  depth.  PalJeo  tree*  lifliog  wiiii  their  root*  a  portion 
ol  »ufUcc,  affon  I  opportunlrfea  of  ofocriijjjr  the  uav 

i!er  toil,  generally  a  gravelly  clay,  which,  minxl  with  •. 

by  cultivation,  foraaa  a  better  roil  Una  pure  roouM, 
j>  it  retain*  mcnMurr  longer.  Rat  lh*  thinner  <jf  la«  nioiiH 
after  ao  many  generation!  of  fonaata  lava  dird  and  decayed  oa 
the  •poi.  aeeaaa  itm»«cileable  with  any  remote  formation  of 
(he  A 


h  i 


KE5WICK—WAD-M1.SE — HORBOWD.tU:. 


Leaving  the  carriage  half  way  up  the  vale,  wc 
walked  on  to  its  extremity,  where  ire  saw  the 
entrance  of  the  only  mine  in  (.treat  Britain,  and, 
they  say  here,  in  the  world,  of  lliat  mihnt 
(pluiubaginc,)  with  which  pencils  aie  made.     I 
believe  there  is  a  mine  of  it  worked  in  Provence ; 
yet  the  etrcumatanceofiu being  known  in  France 
by  the  name  of  mine  dephmb  d,Angie/erret  sea  n 
t»  indicate  vta  sschuta  origm.    Tbo  workman 
told  us,  that  the  proceed*  of  this  mine  amounted 
last  year  to  L.9O.O0O, — a  sum  hardly  credible. 
It  is  not.  worked  continually,   mil  ;it  intervals 
only,  and  so  as  not  to  lower  the  price.  Tin 
looking  for  a  new  vein,  the  old  one  bong 
understood,   exhausted.    The  mountains  here, 
which  arc  of  slate,  form  a  ridge  between  Lang- 
dalc  and  BorrowcUle,  whence  the  waters  nm 
every  way ;  and,  although  not  the  highest  in 
themselves,  mult  b<!  Highest  level  of 

alpine  region.  The  farthest  part  of  tl 
not  equal  in  beauty  to  the  nearest,  ami  it  a  not 
worth  white  perhaps  to  penetrate  further  than 
die  Bowdcr-Stonc  >  yet  the  whole  country  is  so 
beautiful,  that  no  ride  can  be  uninteresting.  On 
our  return  wc  hud  a  glorious  Nio-Kttiqg  across 
the  lake  and  its  mountainous  hanks.  All  was 
richness  and  splendour  of  light  above,  and  dark 
j  t.i: .  below.    Sttddav  fa  front  of  us,  a  huge, 

insulated,  round  lump  oi'  earth,  $300  feet  li 


KESWICK — SUDD  AW, 

m>  smooth  and  even,  that  it  seems  as  if  a  coach 
ami  four  might  drive  straight  to  the  top  and  doaru 
again,  ou  the  oilier  side*  without  track  or  guide  *, 
the  uniform  neatness  of  the  surface  appearing 
uninterrupted  by  cither  rocks  or  trees,'     The 


•  A  feat  months  after  are  saw  airfdaw.  It  «h  «M  at 
rj*a  to  a  eosDjonv  of  agrir^fturirts,  who  ire  going  in  plant  m 
aurfacc  ail  over.  A  huacared  ytan  hence  It  ma/  be  iiaywrd 
by  a  pio«  forest,  but,  in  the  intermedial*  time,  the  nuracry  wflt 

spoil  it. 

Wc  mtmrfiie*  bete  a  fraaaacnt  of  a  subsequent  lav  of  tbc 
Author:— 

May  ftO,  inJfi— We  ascended  SWddaw,  cm  horsaWk,  ta 
th*  vary  tup,  from  in*  iofluV%r«t  sate  naur  Keswick.  IV 
iheraocneter  Vf  at  the  summit,  and  W  at  Keaatcii-  TV 
plantat'wn*  of  Wrr**  s,  mad*  all  over  Skidd**-  some  year*  ago* 
a«re  not  b**a  succeaaful— all  abor*  a  certain  bright  adore 
I  -"00  feet  have  died,  not  from  cold,  which  *  never  (ataaat 
here,  but  from  want  of  beat  aulhciimt  for  vegetation.  Larchst 
lire  arul  prosper  m  ehe  Alps,  near  the  region  of 
aacr*»,  and  I  think  m  toga  as  S  or  10,000  fret. 
which  happened  not  U  be  accuatomad  lo  tha  axerciae  «f 
niounttin-rvirr.hinr,,  laid  down  several  time*  kg**m\  a*  the 
guide  raid,  although  not  out  of  breath,  one  hot.  The  vknr 
from  the  top  k,  of  ooorva,  veej  great,  In*  to,  la»nw,  tliaa 
from  Beolomcmil.  Oar  guide,  Ti  year*  oU,  uVl  doc  fccaa  /ey 
nV*f  la  the  Ira*.    SViddnw  U  aehsstaa. 

High  wage*  here  (3*.  a-day ),  jat  too  poor-rate*  high 
Ke»wick.     harming  uoivcnallv  oomulaintU  of  aa  vary 
,  rstrticuUrly  of  inferior  lands  hltij  brswght  into 
-■a 


KMWJCK — SKIDDA'.v. 


455 


I  English  Alps  arc  to  the  Swiss  nearly  in  the  pro- 
portion  of  a  foot  to  a  fathom.  Their  features  re* 
May  SO.— Took  better  horses  than  the  day  before  tor  a 
mountain  expedition  by  Borruwdale.  Tint  find  i»lsnd  on  iho 
left,  alter  leaving  Kctwick,  is  oiled  the  LoroY  Island,  from 
having  b«ea  the  residenc*  of  the  Lords  of  Dcrrrcnuwatcr ; 
tlte  foundatlou  of  the  building  arc  Mill  risible ;  a  drawbridge 
united  it  to  the  main  land.  The  toil  lord,  mvuked  m  the  re- 
bellion of  1715,  escaped  10  France,  and  hia  nUU  wa»  confis- 
cated und  gisvn  LO  I'"'  firrenwich  hotpiial.  HI*  wife,  afraid  of 
ibc  resentment  of  Uio  common  people,  who  accused  her  ufha- 
ljn|  matigatuJ  him  to  rebellion.  Ilcd  over  the  mountain. scramb- 
ling up  a  high  crag  near  the  shore,  called  erer  since  the  La- 
dy V  Pa**.  tard  Dcnrcnt-sratcr  returned  in  the  rebellion  of 
17*5,  was  taken  and  executed. 

Inmiinng  aboat  the  floating  islands,  said  to  appear  and  dis- 
appear on  thin  lake,  I  was  informod  that  they  are  sometime* 
several  acres  in  extent,  raised  in  tb#  middle,  and  not  merely 
composed  of  entangled  roots  and  light  substances,  but  baring 

I  a  considerable  depth  of  clay  and  stone  adhering,  as  much  a« 
15  or  90  feci.  These  ulauds  split  arts*  a  while,  and  sink  » 
the  bottom.  The  mass  is  specifically  much  heavier  than  snv 
ier,  no  detached  pan  floats  a  mocnorr,  .mil  ihe  probability  fa, 
that  hydrogen  gu,  disengaged  under  certain  portions  of  the 
bottom  -ii  die  lake,  hilt  them  up  to  the  aufsacc,  frhena  they 
remain  buoyed  up  till  the  gnx  escapes  by  some  accidental 
not  or  splitting. 

'1  bre«  quarters  or  an  hour  slow  trot  carried  us  to  the  south 
extremity  of  the  lake,  and  the  entrance  of  Borrow  dale-  Castle 
Crag  is  the  first  object  which  presents  itself— an  insulated 
slate  tot*,  about  800  fret  high,  on  the  top  of  woioh  ih<:  Hu- 
mana had  a  fan,  icstigc*  of  which  hare  been  litelj  disco  set- 


K  CSWXCK — SKODA  W, 


duccd  to  that  *eale,  are  less  hard,  and  the  oppo- 
sition between  desolate  harrrnncm  and  exubcr- 
aut  vegetation,  leas  miukfil  and  striking. 


ed;  w^M«r  Miao  of  then  al  the  guide*!  house  (Hulton),  at 
KnwiiA,  a  ia— j  hinge  uf  a  itoor,  hits  ol  ac<uU, 

•linn,  a  judlur*.  am!  vsrioua  earthen  uttDf&aJ*  W«  mat  caaic 
ftrusarr-ttoar— it*  dimension*  already  gjren  ;  ft  lays  on 
<\ijjc  Uku  a  skip  on  it*  k*ti  Tin  h  tcI,  gn*a,  sotkary,  &nj 
peaceful  *alic>  or  Hocrowdak,  narrowing  by  degree*,  termi- 
nals »t  li-t  in  a  sleep  raropirt  of 

lOV  u  rivulet,  ha*  ware  kt»  deep  ctilnnrl.  Our  oath  led 
uw  a  oarroir  bridge,  not  a  yard  wide,  without  any  parsptt- 
waft  Here  the  guid>-,  pointiag  to  thv  **g**$  waii. 
up  lf>0  fweijulpu*  «tfrnf,  jwlird,  with  vmr  degree  of  »ten> 
niiv,  «i}j«h*r«t  in  rani  to  pumsv  our  wnicrpriso  (W.ut-watrr^ 
taking  aa  easier  road.  K  unmockaud  UuLUrmcrt 

I  adk*  of  the  party  nod  >  itnat»n,  and  our  mou»* 

tain-liortea  pa*-  itueaa* 

!  fciddlcgmtu  and  stirrup*.  Tending  the  way.     Our 

loth  m»»  ju*t  *Ed«  .iHmi;li  Qm  one  hoflr,  rather  hollow,  ruD 

of  broken  »tone*,  winding  short  tn  nnd  fro  from  crag  to  era/; 

ice.  of  course,  on  one  *idc.  and  nearly  vertical  re-eks 

ou  lb*  other.     There  *a«  undo  ome  real  c»u*r  of  *p- 

prehension,  n»  well  u  some  apprehension*  without  cause,  yet 

not  a  >  tous  exprcawm  neaped  an*  of  the  party,  and 

wo  raw-luJ  the  top  without  aeddaaj  ;  tlic  retrospect  tomda 

:Uc,  Ken  between  iw.->  screeni  *•(  rock*,  was  werjr 

sirAin  •  hundred  fbet  nbose  u»,  then  am*  «*nw  in 

I  heaps,  anil  the  *ir  «m  mj  cold.     A  ihort  ride  ©tot  a 

ilraoUlc  tract  of  itony  bop* ,  and  (XImin^  by  a  small  Like  fcill 

i-i  trout,  bl  )ught  tu  W  tin:  dr«nrnt.     Here  the  guide  etighrrd, 

A  r:*J  (wrtufcn  £a*iae*  (we 
a  wai  the  fiuiurious  Union  Trcnk  bo  thus  designated,} 


KESWICK — SK1DDAW, 


*57 


re  set  out  early  this  morning  fo:  I      mmock 
Water  and  Bttttcnnocc    At  Scale  Hill,  12  mile* 


bid  once  datKerf  do**n  here  on  rioraehack,  Ic-iriog  hit  aatoniah- 
ed  guide  (our  own)  behind.  The  (carlo*  haraemftn  arrival 
aafe  at  the  bottom,  and  p;  i  n  oue  day  a  Journey  of  5(i 

the  tame  which  took  u»  three  days,  through  steep  and 
t  road«,  which  nearly  killed  hia  honr-  Trcnk,  the 
us,  was  a  aery  tail  man,  almost  u  giant,  big-tioucd  ami 
unt,  and  looked  like  a  morutrr.  He  asked  row  queatioiu,  in 
very  broken  English,  and  was  ilwm  aome  hundred  yanfa 
ahead  of  the  guide,  who  could  not  k«rp  up  with  him.  We  told 
tint  guidv  tin*  h;ur-!inaincd  prttxr  of  hit  had  been  gviliatrnai  in 
France.  He  had  never  heard  of  il#  but  raid,  M  Vrry  /Ac  f  very 
T<ro  ladies,  he  told  tf*,  had,  under  hi*  care,  nv-W 
thnr  uvry  down  on  their  horace,  but  not  quite  In  so  dashinj;  a 
atyle  as  the  bold  Baron.  Waal-wmtar,  Rk«  a  dtrk-bluc  mirror 
■n  iu  do»p  frame  of  rouged  mountains,  ihone  far  belorr 
flocks  of  dingy  aheep,  wWl  ..:  titrable  anow-whitc  Iambi 
bleating  after  them,  were  diipertcd  on  the  nearly  vertical 
flank*  of  the  mountain,  feeding  on  the  ymitig  graaa,  of  the 
finest  Tcrdure  imaginoblc.  We  had  obaerved  before  on  the 
othl  r  mountains,  and  hare  again,  th*  vory  raffed  appearance 

OflOttl     llMft  wM   i  Bt  Ol'tiu-ir    «O0l  lalk':i  -jII.  m   ;\nfl.-.      V,V 

were  ioformed  that  before  the  winter  aeu  tn,  the  aheep  arc  all 

rubbed  with  a  preparation,   i.maiRinj;  of  Ur  and  hntlcr  boiled 

dT|    ii  the  proportion  of  ono  quart  of  the  6rat  to  four 

-  of   !k  ntlnr.    This  is  applied  on  th  il»  animal, 

i  ifaVattoaj  the  hair  in  streaks,  at  the  interval,  of  one  imh, 

ao  aa  t*>  spread  afloat  the.  m»ol  and  anoint  the  wbnlr- 

audi  aline  p  as  miss  this  operation  are  apt  to  suffer  and  lose 

their  fleece. — The**  rnQWaaaa'  an-  all  schist  ua,  yet  many  ba- 

taltic  fragment i  were  observable  here,  which,  our  guide  told 

ua,  Cell  from  a  summit  on  our  right,  very  liiftcrcut  in  xppcur- 


43$ 


U1W1CK— MIDDAW, 


from  Keswick,  we  took  a  boat  and  roved  to  the 
end  of  ("nun  mock  Water  (three  wad  a  half  mile* 


ear*  rreen  any  otaar,  and  eaarmarg  aw  ch  of  tha 
raageooot.  On  of  tbt  Esifcn  bmkic  Mocks,  close  to  ta* 
puli,  contain*  weiMbrcoed  br%W  grata*  of  gar****.  I  broke 
a  fragment  whet*  owe  of  them  waa  very  \:*iblc.  Beyond 
Watt-weter  below,  and  iu  cecvated  rampart,  -o  had  tiw  eee 
in  the-  boroon,  the  Isle  of  Man,  with  rtry  a%fa  ground*  i  and 
bejood  It  again,  a  distant  land,  either  Scotland  or  heboid. 
Wc  ro*U  diatim-uiafa  two  aatpa  under  nail  inside  of  the  ble  of 
Man.  Watf-watt*  U  eat  Uy  any  nam  the  dreary  epet  we,  bad 
■f  fiiiiLJ;  lb*  landscape  of  its  western  shore  it  rather  mi4 
rr*n  otherwise.  There  ere  acreraJ  kernvneuaca  among  r^ero 
manrlnin  and  clump*  of  ath  i  w»  etoppod  at  one  of  tliero,  and 
saade  an  rxcrJWnt  dinner  on  rery  neb  null  and  oat-cakae, 
niii*A  Va*  coarse  than  tba  Scotch:  the  good  wotmn  of  chc 
boost,  to  wees  the  rvmark  was  aUdrCMtfd,  replied,  with  a  iraile 
of  oonsctoos  superiority,  ■  /  dW  «$.*•  Prodigiooa  heap*  of 
small  stone*  are  •tottered  above  the  meadows.  Two  or  three 
time*  fa  a  century  an  eatrMrdinery  norm  burning  on  tho  aar. 
roandlot  muunuina,  brings  such  a  deluge  of  water  and  none* 
in  the  •  alley  as  take*  a  year  or  two  to  clear  the  surface,  'fan 
small  farms  of  thi»  and  the  other  sellcyt  of  these  mountain* 
belon*  generally  to  those  who  cull  irate  them :  the  cldnst  sort 
inlii  rflM  tin-  nutw,  burthvuvd  witli  uuall  aniiuiliv*  to  yousjajar 
lren  |  and  there  are  such  familiea  of  shepherds  and  bias* 
bandmrn  about  here  o*  might  i-hallcagc  the  nobleat  in  the  land 
m  pofart  of  antiquity. 

Across  the  lake  (aboie  live  mile*  by  out  and  a  half  or  Wo 
■m*V a.)  tba  oppoaitr  shore  presented  generally  a  steep  surface 
of  CMsabliog  fragment*,  rttrmmintld  with  vertical  crags,  the 
blgheat  etrraled  with  snow— we  were  told.  1  bod  ulmu*t  sold 
wc  aaw,  at  at  would  bare  made  a  better  picture  of  a  fox-tfeacc 


KESWICK— SKIDD  AW, 


450 


by  three  quarters,)  a  beautiful  scene  of  stilly  soli- 
tude.    The  surrouuding  mountains,  particularly 


_  the  bciak  of  •  lofty  feme*  two  thousand  feet  above  the 
•  Mrr— tli*  whole  pack  bfuUorjtBW*epiog  tliv  iky  fur  •  mile, 
but  losing  their  prey  at  last --the  fox  d&thing  down  where  nex- 
IMT  man  nur  Jo^  cuuld  1'uliow  him  ! — Some  yuan  *£»,  n  morn 
than  usual  tcaling  of  the  rock*  out  Wast-wnler,  produced  a 
tort  of  continued  avalanche  of  stones  for  some  week*,  raising 
a  promontory  into  the  take.  Want!  El  »•  oaa  hundred  fathom 
deep  !  a  column  of  doit  was  ubtvrvabic  for  lOinc  miles  rising 
id  the  sir  over  the  spot.  Wo  performed  the  W  mile*  from 
Kcawick  over  the  mountains  to  the  extremity  of  YYast-water, 
id  eight  hours  and  a  hall".  Slept  si*  mile*  further,  at  CokWr- 
bridge,  a  beautiful  «Ulagc,  and  a  neat  comfortable  inn,  aoanc 
nioturatqOfl  remains  of  an  ahher  clow,  to  a  modern  mansion, 
built  out  of  Ua  materials — on  the  bonks  of  a  charming  moun- 
taiu  itrcem  ;  the  waut,  transparent  as  air  itself,  breaks  over  iu 
rocky  and  precipitous  channel.  A  strange  animal,  looking 
lik*  a  dog,  or  a  wolf,  but  larger  than  either,  commitud  extra- 
ordinary raviRci  i!.»i!....i  iln>  mounrain  district  du- 
ring seven  years,  killing  a  vast  number,  and  only  sucking  their 
blood— a  price  was  set  on  his  head,  and  the  inhabitant*  were 
night  and  day  in  pursuit  of  him— desperately  wounded  at  last, 
he  d rigged   hi*  intr*tinr*  for  «mnr  miles,  and  asrcnnd  *d>oS  was 

necessary  to  stop  him.  I  have  seen  the  skin  stuffed  in  thr.  Etfft- 
wkk  museum.  The  story  is,  that  this  animal  w;u  luuded  from 
a  lureign  vessel  wrecked  on  the  coast,  that  an  innennt  tinker 
laad  it  a  whelp,  ami  kept  it  tied  under  till  cart,  when  he  at  last 
made  hi*  escape. 

June  2  lav— Dined  and  slept  at  Scale  Hilt,  where  the  rain 
detained  us,  (having  rode  only  sixteen  miles  to-day ;)  si  r 
mock  Water,  a  wonderfully  beautiful  country,  vales  clothed 


460      SCALE  U  ILL—  *  ART  OF  BUTT^RM 

toward*  the  head  of  the  lake,  arc  bold  and  !«rc- 
Our  boatman  told  di  thai  there  are  soraetimi 
in  winter,  trcmendoi  winds  upon  it ; 

he  pointed  out  some  height*  covered  with  the 
spray  of  the*  water  on  these  occasion-,  winch  1 
am  sure  would  be  out  of  the  reach  of  the  spray 
of  the  sea  in  the  greatest  storm*. 

Mary  of  Buttermere  b  one  of  the  CMJQajtiea  of 
the  lake  region,  and  liad  excited  ours.  Her  talc 
of  woe  is  become,  perhaps,  catbet  trivial  in  Kng* 
Und,  but  it  may  still  interest  urangera.    Some 

twelve  or  thirteen  years  ago,  Mary 1  the 

daughter  of  a  pcwunl  on  tin  H  of  the 

lake*,  waa  a  rare  beauty,  ju*t  cxpandiux  into  wo- 
manhood, whose  fame  laid  bc^u/i  to  spread  among 
the  neighbouring  rustics,  and  the  polite  travel- 
lers. One  of  the  latter  saw  dIs  des- 
perately in  love.  The  honourable  offer  of  agon- 


with  titid  gTtcn,  woody  full*,  innccoaibl*  rimpatii  of  ji»y 

OWfi  by  dcaoaaalng  waten.     r'rum  tfw  window 
the  bin  w*  counted  twtfoe  .1  nmct  farm-tatwes  in  lW  aatttt 
vttk,  each  nith  (U  it/ore  «f  aili,  and   mont   of  them  OS 
lain  Uream;  Ukm  farm*  excrod  scarcely  ever  40  or  50 

.]«  uloujj  OrOBMaock  Water  i»  *wry  vtriking,  and  fluuer- 
merr  dfll  more  io,  from  the  great  hegut  of  niount«uH,cloring 
all  round  the  amoU  bavin  of  the  lake.  Wc  paued  jatxrdty  by 
Kn nordile  Water  and  Lamm  Water ;  the  tccntry  of  both,  par- 
i^ul.irly  of  Uw  former,  if  wry  great,  but  the  mi»i  aod  raia  bid 
e^ory  distant  object. 

8 


fAKV  OP  BUTTEBUEIIE- 


461 


tleman's  hand  and  fortune,  although  rather  in 
years,  was  not  to  be  refused  ;  nor  could  his  con. 
ditiori  nm!  circ-iiitistiturrt  In*  mijim\'ii   intn 
narruwly.     The  unfortunate  Mary   became  tlie 
gentleman's  wife  ;  but  she  had  not  been  a  lady 
many  weeks,  when  Ik  i  htubtfriwutrrtsted.  He 
was  a  noted  swindler,  accused  of  many  cri 
and,  having  been  OOOvicted  of  forgery,  hi 
became  inevitable.    He  was  handed.    Mary  has 
since  married  a  small  innkeeper.     Sbo  DTO 
us  a  bowl  of  milk,  holding  u  youu^  cbDd  on  her 
She  is  about  thirty,  tall,  and  a  good  fi- 
gure,— regular    feature*,— ratlicr  fair,— -bashful 
— conscious  at  least  that  she  is  an  object  of  curi- 
osity ;  wc  fancied  M,  dqectedi  and 
inten-im.-  : 

A  hjur-bratned  mtiuMntal  tn:t 
W*i  tirongly  marked  in  hct  f»co, 
A  wilt!!)  witty,  rti'tic-  grace 

Slwne  full  UpcB  tn-r; 
H«r  «yc  *Vti  turn'.  flj  .paw, 

Bcom'd  kc€»  iriib  bonoar. 


I  would  not  at  all  answer  I  ailar  impres- 

sion on  other  travellers,  less  favourably  disposed ; 
and  to  be  candid,  I  must  own  that  our  boatman, 
a  re.  .lubitant,  ppokc  rathe*  dispara- 

gingly oi  ry.  He 

resentment  against  her  worthless  partner,  than 
pity  at  his  awful  end  ;  and  repeated  some  furious 


MR5SHS  SOLTTIEY  AND  COLERIDGE. 


4tt 


guillotine,  ■  take  my  advice,  and  Lave  nothing 
to  do  with  it."  The  land  was  afterwards  appro- 
priated to  the  use  Of  Greenwich  hospital  by 

rhich  means  more  wood  has  been  preserved  tiiaa 
it  it  had  belonged  to  individuals.  Another  island 
called  Vicar's  Island,  of  the  extent  of  sis  acres, 
very  agreeably  planted,  although  rather  too 

mch,  and  has  a  pleasant  house  upon  iL  This 
little  property  was  sold  a  few  years  ago  Joe 
Li  17OO. 

We  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  several  times  the 
celebrated  Mr  Southey,  a  distinguished  favourite 
of  the  English  muses.  Mr  Coleridge,  whose  ta- 
lents arc  equally  known,  although  less  fruitful. 
was  at  Mr  S.'s,  with  whom  he  Ivan  some  family 
connection.  Both  of  these  gentlemen,  and,  I  be- 
lieve,  Mr  Wordsworth,  another  of  the  poets  of 
the  lakes,  had,  in  the  warmth  of  their  youthful 
days,  some  fifteen  years  ago,  taken  the  spirited 
resolution  of  traversing  the  Atlantic,  in  order  to 
breathe  the  pure  air  of  liberty  in  the  United 
States.  Some  accident  delayed  the  execution  of 
this  laudable  project,  and  gave  them  time  to  cool. 
At  present,  these  gentlemen  seem  to  think  that 
there  is  no  need  of  going  so  far  for  liberty,  *"d 
that  there  is  a  reasonable  allowance  of  it  at 
home.  Their  democracy  is  come  down  to  Whig- 
gism,  and  may  not  even  stop  there.    Mi  8.  has 

11      * 


WMDUUfiH— H1E19— UEHIX03. 

this  lingular  fact     If  that  is  the 


465 


>  case,  there  i* 
the  breed,  im- 


cei  uinly  reason  to  suppose  that  the  breed, 
proved  by  its  transplantations  into  Spain,  will  tie- 
icrate  again  by  its  return  to  the  same  food  and 
climate.  Mr  S.  has  rectified  the  encjr  I  was  in 
respecting  the  Spanish  play  Cram  which  Corneille 
drew  his  Cu/.  The  old  father,  (Don  Diego,)  in 
the  French  C«l,  seeking  an  avenger  of  his  outra- 
ged honour,  addresses  his  son  in  these  words : — 
ii  Rodriguc.as-tuducaur?"  To  which  'he  young 
hero  answers,  "Tout  autre  quemoapcrcl'ty 
vcroit  mit  1'heur  I"  I  had  been  told  thai,  in  lite. 
Spanish  play,  the  old  fatltcr,  calling  his  three  sons 
in  succession,  seizes  the  hand  of  the  tvr*t,  and, 
carrying  it  to  his  mouth,  bite9  hh  thumb  severe- 
ly !  This  unexpected  proceeding  does  not  fail  to 
ion  vehement  outcries  and  struggles  on  the 
part  of  the  son,  who  ii,  in  consequence,  dismissed 
with  contempt.  A  second  son  undergoes  the 
same  trial,  with  no  better  result.  At  last  cornea 
Use  third,  the  young  C«/,  who  bean  lb 
ting  without  emotion,  ami  is  immediately  pi 
claimed  die  avenger.  Instead  of  biting,  I  now 
understand  that  the  old  father  gfves  only  a  hard 
(HL-ezc  of  the  hand,  which  1*  certainly  a  less 
shocking  violation  of  the  Freocli  biauamcu  (ra- 
ftfNt* 

S.  has  chosen  a  career  in  which  lie  doe* 
nut.  meet  at  pJCSettt  with  any  competitor.    I 


VOL.  I. 


9   0 


♦00 


UlKDEP.HEftj; — POETRY, 


eminently  Uie  poet  of  chimeras.  Milton  reft  a 
great  model  of  the  kind  ;  and  he  has  sur| 
it  in  monstrous  creations  and  events,  bo  totally 
out  of  nature,  as  to  exclude  not.  only  sympathy, 
but,  is  a  great  degree,  meaning  btac 

J«  rA-f oucfal,  j'Aiine  tool©  aretture, 
Qm  time  4*  pi*«  i  rbuMftiue  oaeurc. 

rriie  come  remark  of  Cardinal  d'E&te  to  Arm*, 
to  is  well  known  |  M  1  )ove  diavolo,  Signor  Ludo- 
vico,  avcte  pigtiate  tanie  coghonerie  }"  and 
of  the  reader*  of  Milton  and  of  Mr  S.  might 
inclined  to  repeat  it; — in  fact  they  have  few  read- 
ers, although  tiiey  have  many  admirer*.  '17»e 
modem  poet  understands  piety  and  ttndernes* 
much  better  than  his  predecessor.  'Die  love  an<l 
the  theology  of  Paradise  Lost  arc  alike  harsh  and 
austere,  coarse  and  material, — while  Mr  S.  has 
tenderness  and  spirituality.  The  latter  is  as  pit 
turesque  as  Milton,  who  was  a  great  landseaj 
painter,  and,  in  the  age  of  Aar  parterres,  dipt 
hedges,  and  jctt-iTcau*  respected  the  freedom, 
and  loved  the  native  graces  of  nature. 

Mr  S.  n  much  esteemed  by  all  those  who 
acquainted  with  Mm,  and  seems  to  have  as  much 
good  sense  and  general  knowledge  as  talent*  and 
genius.  I  was  surprised  to  hear  him  censuring 
highly  the  doctrine  of  the  Kosay  on  Population, 
<>r  rather  not  taking  it  in  Ms  true  light.    One  of 


sra  s. — KESwrcK — mcskuw. 


46; 


dreams  of  the  revolutionary  philosophy  was, 
the  faculty  of  indefinite  perfectibility  in  the 

species  -p  and  one  of  its  errors,  or  its  artifi- 
ces, was,  to  suppose  that  the  great  obstacle!  to 
this  perfectibility  came  altogether  from  the  so- 
cial institutions.  It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at, 
that  the  discovery  of  a  still  greater  obstacle, — .in 
insurmountable  one,  raised  by  nature  itself, — 
which  deprives  that  philosophy  of  a  favourite 
dogma,  should  be  very  ill  received  by  it*  follow- 
ers, and  excite  their  ill-humouT.  In  consequence, 
the  d<WtrillC  6JF  population  is  one  of  the  signal* 
of  patty.  It  is  often  approval  by  the  whig*  ; 
but  I  have  not  found  any  thorough  reformer  to 
whom  it  was  not  odious.  These  two  parti*-. 
having,  however,  many  points  of  contact  and 
natural  sympathies  individuals  OmJc  easily  anil 
unconsciously  from  one  to  the  other  |  and  vrlwn 
the  metamorphosis  takes  place,  it  happens  fre- 
quently that  the  new  insect,  fresh  out  of  !n\  old 
skin,  drags  still  some  fragments  df  it  after  hiro, 
— just  enough  to  indicate  what  be  was  before. 

There  is  here(  Keswick,)  a  museum,  which  for  a 
country  museum,  is  not  to  be  despised.  We  found 
in  it  an  instrument,  common  enough  probably, 
hut  new  to  two  of  us ;  and  those  who  have  felt 
the  tremendous  vibration*,  and  heard  the  omni- 
potrnt  sound  of  the  Chinese  gong,  must  admire 
die  following  description  of  it  > 


»i  1NDERMEIIE — BRITISH TRAVBU.K18. 


daya  hero  with  his  bride,  the  widow  of  Sir 
Thomas  It.  j  his  gunpowder  *pcoche*  to  the  la* 
die*  are  repealed,  confirming  the  trite,  but  true 
apophthegm,  of— No  hero  lor  his  valct-dc-cham- 
brc.  Travellers  begin  to  thin,  and  Mummer  ex- 
cursions draw  to  an  end.  One  of  thcMi  protpect- 
hunters  was  observed  the  other  day  travelling 
post  along  the  banks  of  Ulswatcr,  fast  asleep  in 
his  carriage  !  The  rich  faintam\  who  formerly 
carried  over  all  the  road*  of  the  Continent  their 
ltitless  idleness,  are  now  circumscribed  to  the 
comparatively  narrow  bounds  of  this  island,  and 
wen  as  want  merely  to  move  about,  can  certain- 
ly do  it  here  with  vastly  more  case,  and  greater 
comfort,  than  an>  where  else.  Voltaire  deacri  I  * 
thus  one  of  these  British  perambulators : 


Hjrfiiit  Angola,  vuyiflv am  tanii  tlcucin, 
AclwUfit  cher  dc  modurnet  antiques, 
HcgtriUnl  tent  arec  un  mr  hnutain, 
Ta  mrpri"«Dt  U*  winlx,  ct  lew*  ittifiM 
1><  toui  Fnun,oU  <'e«t  l*cnnemi  morttt, 
r.l  win  nom  e*l  Chriinjilii:  ll"  ft  Will 
II  [lurcourolc  Irislcmcnt  I'ltjlic, 
El  m  wnUnt  fort  *ujul  £  lY-nuiii  , 
Jl  auicnott  m  nuHrcttc  avee  lui, 
Hub  dcdaigncuie,  encore  plus  uupoiie« 
Phrlant  I'nrt  p«u(  mail  h«ll«,  frileau  I0*X, 
Douce  U  null,  imolcnte  la  jour. 

Im,  a.  Ac- 


I  give  this  portrait  for  what  it  may  be  worth,  bn' 


♦71 

try  their  guilt  by  immersion  in  a  hoise-pond. 
were  actually  drowned,  at  a  place  called  IViog,  a 
icw  mika  only  from  London.*  This  appear*  now 
budly  credible,  yet  there  is  no  very  great  dirfcr- 

r.iv'.    In  twrrii  this  :ui-l  ru-  DtbCT  pfOOOdlUC  ;    the 

former  evinces  more  ignorance,  the  latter  more 
profligacy  and  cruelty.  In  consequence  of  prose- 
cutions for  disgusting  crimes,  accusers  arc  found 
who  speculate  on  the  tears  of  the  timid,  and  lay 
them  under  contribution.  The  consciousness  of 
innocence  is  but  an  imperfect  socuiity  tjruH 
U»e  testimony  of  abominable  wretches,  ready  to 
swear  any  thing  ;  and  the  idea  of  appearing  in 
a  court  of  justice  to  answer  tor  a  crime  so  odious, 
and  what  is  perhaps  more,  so  rid  iculous  is  enough 
to  strike  terror  iubu  any  naiad.  The  known 
cases  of  persons  who  have  had  the  courage  to 
resin,  mil  h.ivi  brought  the  impostors  to  justice, 
anord  sufficient  ground  to  believe  tlmt  in  many 
cases  the  latter  Huccced,  and  are  paid  for  tbeir 
silence. 

Nov.  IS. — We  have  explored  rooitof  the  beau- 
ties of  the  surrounding  country ;  and  many  a  sun- 
setting  lias  received  the  tribute  of  our  ever-new 
and  unwearied  admiration.  But  no  language  nf. 
fords  adequate  wean*  of  description ;  the  richest 
proves  but  poor  in  the  attempt  \  and  oil  the  pos- 


473 


WUSI>EIUlEftI>»-*C£M£ftr. 


ssblc  coinbinaiion*  of  words  arc  few  indeed  to 
those  of  nature,  under  all  its  varieties  of  furoM 
ami  colours.  Such  a  vision  uf  glory  as  a  tine 
suountain  mrumsuiag,  may  be  seen  a  thousand 
times,  but  can  scarcely  be  described  more  Uiaa 
uncc  at  all  successfully. 

1  sJiall  mention  only  one  view,  that  from  the 
top  ot'Lough-rigg,  at  die  toot  of  which  the  house 
<  »f  our  friend*  U  situated.  Half  an  hour'a  hard 
tug  up  a  very  »tevp  accent  brings  you  tu  an  e» 

>  ivc  plain,  of  the  finest  possible  turf,  fed  do 
by  >Jil-c-|i  ;  it  t*  gently  v.n.-i  1  uml  broken,  and 
1ms  scvvijJ  naUiral  punch  of  very  clear  water. 
From  a  particular  *jw>t  SOTtO  lakes  arc  seen. 
IVinde  ttyd;il -water,  and  <iru.iincrr,   are 

three  of  them.  Time  had  been  a  fail  of  snow  a 
few  days  before,  aud  line  highest  ridge  of  the 
Uydal  mountains  was  still  covered,  while  below, 
on  loivii  :md  nearer  bills  the  tine  woods  of  Rvdal 
P;uk  in  their  rid  I  n  attire  of  brown, 

yellow,  and  of  rod,  contrasted  with  the  bright- 
ness or*  the  snow  hihiiili  The  grounds  of  Hydal 
I  fnuM-  are  very  beautiful,  and  have  two  very  fine 
Calls  of  water ; — the  one  has  been  rcU-lirated  by 
Gray  and  lis  (iilptii ;  the  oilier,  called  Sjackgill> 
force,  vastly  superior,  and  highly  magnificent,  has 
been  less  noticed. 

The  air  i%  perfectly  mild  ;  it  hardly  freezes  in 
the  night,  and  the  ruton-rcd-brcast  sings  merrily 


. 


on  the  sunny  side  of' bushes.  This  bin!  is  privi- 
leged in  England,  as  swans  are  :— they  have  no- 
thing to  four  from  gunner*. 

to4witlistandinc;  the  moderate  trmperatirre 
clear  sky  we  have  enjoyed,  and  every  appear, 
nnce  of  salubrity  in  the  climate,  a  very  malignant 
and  contagious  scarlet-fever,  communicated  even 
through  third  persona,  is  spreading  in  Langdale, 
and  is  :ilmnst  as  rapidly  mortal  aft  our  yellow- 
lever  in  America.  Cold-bathing  seems,  however, 
a  son  ot  specific,  bringing  down  (he  heat  and 
pulse  immediately.  It  is  repeated  many  times 
e\ety  day,  and  cold  walei  is  jwured  over  the 
head,  while  the  rest  of  the  body  is  immersed  ; 
tbe  patients  themselves  wish  ardently  fbr  a  repc- 
tkson  of  the  cold  bath,  from  the  immediate  relief 
they  experience.  Perspiration  in  the  yellow-fever 
is  probably  beneficial  only  as  cooling  the  surface 
by  evaporation,  which  is  effected  in  a  more  direct 
way  by  cold  water.  The  hooping-cough  h  also 
very  prevalent  among  children  a  change 

of  place,  even  from  one  room  to  another  of  the 
tome  house,  is  found  to  operate  favourably,  which 
is  certainly  very  unaccountable. 

We  arc  preparing  to  return  to  Kriinburgli ;  tbe 
few  days  we  spent  there  last  summer  having 
made  us  wish  to  divide  our  winter  between  that 
capital  and  London.  Before  leaving  Windermere, 
I  ought  to  mention  an  artist,  Mr  Green,  who  has 


WIKDEfcMXUX — Ntt  G*K£K— -GOTOM -GREEN. 

spent  live  last  ten  yean  among  the*?  mourn 
employed  in  the  study  of  their  form  and  physi- 
ognomy, ami  who  drawl  them  with  singular  truth 
and  originality ;  be  says  himself  he  knows  the 
aaaiomy  of  moon  tains,  and  he  doc*  undoubtedly. 
Hicrc  is  a  certain  conventional  form  of  moun- 
tains, which  paaaea  current  in  the  practice  of  the 
irt,  without  being  at  all  like  nature.  Mr  Green 
lias  etched,  in  the  soft  ground  manner,  sixty  Large 
copperplates,  forming  excellent  studies.  The  out- 
line only  is  auld  at  5*.,  and,  when  abided  in  In* 
dbn  ink,  30s.  each. 

New  i  7  .—-Edinburgh.  We  came  here  in  three 

.  ( 1 40  rnticw.)  'i"bc  roods  are  made  of  broken 

stones,  hard,  and  jotting  like  a  bad  paveim-nt, 

but  without  ruts.    The  heavy  English 

wheels  16  and  IS  iuclies  broad,  would  sooi 
minh  these  asperity  lin  respect,  they  ai 

ccrtaii.lv  jucii  r.ibJe  to  the  light  unc-horsc  curl* 
used  here. 

Our  entrance  into  Scotland  una  this  tune  by 
Gretna-Green,  notorious  tor  smuggle!  wco\ 

marriage  tortus,  are  very  simple  iu  Scotland  -, 
it  is  enough  to  acknowledge  a  woman 
wife  before  witnesses,  and  even  to  live  apparent- 
ly  as  married,  to  be  so  legally  and  indissolubly. 
In  England,  there  arc  banns  to  be  publish* 

ch,  and  other  formalities,  bcDtrvetiiapil   to 
unauthorized  lovers.     1  do  not  exactly  know 


OKETNA-GBERK— SMUGGLED  WfiBOIXO*.       475 

why  this  villas  has  been  chou-n  iti  pu'lVn'tice  to 
others  on  the  frontier  of  Scotland,  except  its  be- 
ing the  tirst  on  the  rood,  and  having  acquired 
the  good-will  of  the  trade.  Wc  enquired  of  our 
landlady  about  tin*  old  drunken  blacksmith,  said 
10  be  die  high-priest  of  this  fugitive  Hymen.  She 
denied,  however,  indignantly  his  having  ever  been 
a  black  muth.  He  is  likely  to  die  soon  from  age 
and  drinking;  and  then  our  informant  added, 
with  a  nigh,  "  What  will  becoair  <  I  04  Hod  only 
knows!"  No  less  than  a  hundred  couple  have 
been  conjoined  here  annually.  Wc  might  have 
licen  admitted  to  the  sight  of  this  Dobfo  person- 
age for  a  glass  uf  grog.  He  ts  neiLher  a 
man  nor  a  magistrate,  but  reads  the  English 
marriage-service  to  tranquillize  the  scruple*  of 
the  lady,  and  persuade  her  she  in  rightfully  mar. 
riod,  although  it  is  not  necessary.  The  Scotch 
chinch  does  not  countenance  these  clandestine 
unions,  and,  1  believe,  excommunicates  the  con- 
tracting parties.    Tin:  uhject  of  the  laws  of  .Scot- 

d  h,  in  prevent  concubinage,  by  rendering  it 
dangerous  \  not  to  facilitate  improper  marriages. 

Between  Moflat  and  Crook,  the  road  traverses 
a  pastoral  district,  not  unlike  Moaspaul,  A  few 
miles  north  of  Moffat,  the  side  of  the  hill  over 
which  we  passed  is  worn  away  into  a  frightful 
chasm,  called  the  Dcvii's  B<tf-tub.  The  view 
from  the  top  must  be  very  tine,  but  all  was  cloud 


KDIXBUKUli- 


07  Jl>: 


477 


the  prisoner,  ami  Oth             -cry.     On  <mc  side, 
near  the  window,  were  the  jury,  on  four  bem  I 
one  behind  the  other,  in  an  amphitheatre.     Op- 
positc  to  them,  acd  fronting  the  light,  a  rained 
box  for  tlie  witnesses.    Fronting  the  judges  l>ut 
outside  of  the  bar,  the  prisoner  sat  between 
soldiers;  behind  them,  tlic  public  on  an  amphi- 
theatre, x caching  to  the  very  ceiling.   The  judge* 
soon  appeared,  three  in  number; — the   Lord 
Justicc-Clcrk,  who  presides/  Lord  Mendowbank, 
and   a  third,   whose  nmm-   I   do  not  rrmemhcT. 
Their  dreas  is  very  odd,-      -        of  red  ami  whitu 
satin,  stuck  over  with  hows  of  red  ribbon,  anil 
large  wig*  covering:  head  and  shoulder*,— a  mas- 
querade lor  which  1  was  not  prepared.     Out  of 
forty-five  jurymen  present,  the  presiding  judgo 
scltctai  tiltccn  from  a  ha  be  Iwid  in  bis  hand, 
who  were  cnipurmclled  for  the  trial  of  the  pri 
at  tbc  bar.     This  selection  surprised  me  a  little, 
town.  In  England  and  in  the  United  States  thi- 
slkcrirrsiunmons  whom  he  plow*  lq  ;»:rvc  on  the 
jury.     The-  names  nre  put  in  a  bus,  and  twvkc 
drawn  out  fur  meiy  new  trial.     Here  the  stttrifl 
^>~ _ ~ — 


•  Tho  pliieo  of  Lord  Ju  .  ralj  or  first  Lord  of  Jim- 

(iciary,  \»,  I  hilicre,  *  mcn»  ftinccore,  ptrcn  to  s  jKr.no  who 
#tWn  doe*  not  roide,  and  prrlupa  neicr  vnu  in  I.    II:. 

ttttttsuy,  or  cWrk,  however,  reprotcnu  him;  tom 
rtl  with  all  the  power,  and  enjop  nil  Mm-  ra  pi  viability  of  Loril 
Chirf- Jiiftticv,  although  only  tht  f.vrJ  ChUf  Jmtici**  <ttrt. 


EDINBURGH— HIGH  COURT  OF  JUtTIClAHV.      473 

while,  the  wife  of  the  deceased  had  drawn  hex 
husband  away  j— he  hail  left  the  \ard,  and  was 
in  his  own  garden,  separated  by  a  low  hedge, 
when  the  prisoner  advanced  toward*  him,  hold- 
ing hb  gun  forward,  although  not  aiming.  Most 
of  the  witnesses  were  workmen,  who  happened 
to  be  employed  on  the  roof  of  a  bouae  at  some 
distance  ;  from  that  situation  they  hud  seen  the 
prisoner  approach  the  hedge  which  separated 
the  parlies  and  they  were  very  near  each  other 
when  the  gun  went  oft  and  the  deceased  fell. 
There  was  aaattempt  to  show  that  the  deceased 
had  a  stick  in  bis  hand,  and  ? truck  the  barrel  of 
the  gun  just  Iveforc.  it  went  off;  but  this  part  of 
tlie  testimony  coming  from  a  boy,  who  seemed 
to  have  been  instructed  for  that  purpose,  was  Dot 
credited,  and  in  fact  injured  the  cause.  Tlie  de- 
ceased had  been  seen  to  move  his  arm,  but  whe- 
ther he  had  touched  the  barrel  was  quite  uncer- 
tain. On  the  other  hand,  nobody  bad  seen  the 
prisoner  aim,  or  draw  the  trigger;— the  gun 
might  have  gone  orT  by  accident,  and  this  bate 
possibility  could  alone  save  htm.  A  great  num- 
ber of  respectable  witnesses  vouched  tor  the  cha- 
racter of  the  prisoner,  whoac  behaviour  had  al- 
ways been  irreproachable.  The  deceased  bore, 
on  the  contrary,  a  very  bad  character,— was  a 
deserter, — a  poacher, — bearingan  assumed  name, 
&C  ;  circumstances  tending  to  establish,  on  one 


toiMBtntoir — Man  court  of  justiciary.   4Si 


innocence,  and  that  stujKir,  produced  by  a  nuiI- 
deu  and  unforeseen  accident,  which  had  made 
ban  likewise  unmindful  of  Im  own  danger  i — 
for  he  did  not  fly,  although  noi  arretted  till  the 
next  day,  when  he  was  found  at  home. 

When  the  presiding  judge  cliargcd  the  jury, 
which  he  did  very  abry,  although,  perhaps,  with 
snore  energy  than  becomes  the  bench,  1  trembled 
Tor  the  prisoner.  "  'ttiis  is  murder  or  it  is  no* 
thing, "  he  said  emphatically  }  "  no  medium.0 

The  jury,  during  aH  the  stages  of  the  trial, 
which  lasted  six  hours,  appeared  to  give  the 
mmt  meritorious  attention  ;  they  were  provided 
with  pen  and  ink,  and  took  notes.  At  four 
o'clock  they  withdrew  to  their  chamber.  The 
prisoner,  clothed  in  black,  decent,  and  resigned, 
li-u-ni.l  to jill  thai  pasted]  vbboutasgajaga  rati 
He  was  soon  after  remanded  to  his  prbon,  where, 
I  presume,  he  did  not  spend  a  very  comfortable 
night. 

I  have  just  learnt  that  the  jury  returned  their 
verdict  this  morning,  a  majority  of  eleven  to  Jour 
deciding  for  culpable  hmkuie,  against  the  opi- 
nion of  the  bench,  who  wanted  no  medium.  The 
judges  passed  the  sentence  of  the  law,  which  is 
transportation  for  life.  The  prisoner  may  have 
to  wait  two  years  in  pruon  for  a  Ail  I  cargo  for 
Botany  Bay. 

VOL.  L  ! |  M 


ED1SDURGU— HIGH  COURT  OP  JUSriClAHT.    433 

institution,  winch  prevents  their  being  inflicted 
oil  an  innocent  person,  extremely  valuable.  Theru 
is  no  jury  in  civil  cases  in  Scotland,  and  although 
many  good  reasons  arc  adduced  for  this  exclu- 
sion, there  are  others  of  greater  weight  against  it. 
It  must  be  admitted  that  jurymen  arc,  in  gene- 
ral, very  incompetent  in  such  cases,  but  publici- 
ty and  oral  evidence  are  secured  thereby,  and 
this  outweighs  any  other  consideration.     Lord 
Stanhope  made  it  motion  in  parliament  ■ 
months  ago,  for  the  introduction  of  the  civil 
jury  in  Scotland,  and  said   the  Scotch  people 
wished  for  it.     This  does  not  appear  to  mc  to 
be  the  case  ;  and  I  have  even  heard  the  trial  In- 
jury in  criminal  cases, — this  palladium  of  Eng- 
lish   liberty,   spoken    of  rather  irreverently  in 
Scotland.     Lord  Stanhope  was  answered,  that 
the  practice  of  the  Scotch  courts  was  10  intri- 
cate, that  the  civil  jury  could  not  be  adapted  to 
it,  and  that,  with  the  English  jury,  English  laws 
should  also  be  introduced,  which  msimpracti- 
cable- 

Thc  Scotch  judges  have  the  reputation  not 
only  of  great  integrity  and  purity,  but  of  attend- 
ing as  closely  to  their  business  ai  if  tlicy  were 
wholly  under  the  eye  of  the  public,  as  the  Eng. 
huh  judges  are.  This  certainly  docs  them  great 
honour.  I  know,  however,  from  experience, 
the  inconvenience  attending  a  system  of  cabinet 


4S4 


KblMURCH— COURTS  OP  EQUITY. 


judge*.  Masters  of  Chancery  in  F.uglantl  arc 
members  of  a  court  of  equity,  of  which  llie  ohou 
ccllor  is  the  chief  j*  their  proceedings  axe  en- 


*  The  Coon  of  Equity  U  oorai-iertd  by  Lord  Bacon,  who 
hamsaif  held  the  osEce  of  chancellor,  m  instituted  for  the 
purpose  of  proridmg  *  remedy  against  the  injuries  of  other 
court*,  and  sopplying  their  defects.  The  learned  Bid  winy 
Mat*  sap,  that  M  Emjity  is  4 roruUh  thing;  for  law  we 
■  measure,— know  what  to  Cnut  lo.  Equity  it  according 
th*  oontcirnce  of  him  that  is  clumcvUor  -,  and  aa  lliat  t»  largi 
or  narrower,  to  i»  equity.  It  [s  all  or»c  aa  if  they  ihould  ■•*« 
the  kundarii  for  roeasar*  a  chancellor's  foot-  What  as  untet- 
lain  mcaaorc  woaffd  tfaia  be .'  One  chancellor  has  a  long  foot; 
Aootrtcr  a  abort  fool  i  <•  **»»«*  *»  indanVrant  tool:  'tis  the  laaae 
thing  in  the  chancellor's  conackatcc  >M  BlacUtoac,  on  the  coo. 
trwy,  id)!,  *'  That  tlic  Court  of  Equity  Jtctdu*  according  tu 
fixed  rulea  and  precedents!  and  that  there  u  now,  in  that  r«- 
T*rct,  but  Utile  dinrranc*  batweon  tfua  court  and  tow  others.** 
Bacon  and  Saldoo  apeak  of  what  it  was,  and  JUackstooa  of  what 
it  if ;  arbitrary  doeiiiocrt  htiiot;  become  taw.  On  the  other 
Imnd,  the  courts  of  common  taw  hare  extended  their  jurisdic- 
tion beyond  its  ancient  iimiu;  the  improvement*  of  the 
haft  (aapared  them  with  a  more  libera)  ipirit,  and  ham 
ri  tlirir  decisions  more  agreeable  to  the  natural  dictates  of 
)wtice— Aliasf!  X*kUmA  GowrmraL 

•  ijrnpra  rather  with  Blacks  tone,  than  with  Bo  coo  or 
Scldcn ;  he  calb  it,  howcrcr,  an  fi/oim^ntnl  ecarf,  which 
again  a  hilly  like,  the  foot  of  the  diiunellor. 

Although  the  ftomao,  or  civil  law,  is  repugnant  to  the 
lish  contiiiutki*.  y  1 1  many  of  its  singular  forms  harre  boon  adopt- 
ed, by  which  the  points  in  dispute  are  tortured  into  certain 
arbitrary  claudications,  under  which  alone  pleaders  can  pro- 
coed.  Pleaders  and  judges  are  so  exact  and  nice  in  their  rules, 


EDINBURGH COURTS  Of  EQUITY. 


465 


tirdy  grounded  on  written  proofs  and  documents, 
and  not  carried  on  in  public  1  have  certainly 
nothing  to  say  against  Uicir  integrity,  and  1  know 
that  several  of  them,  and  iirolalily  many  of  than, 
have  as  high  a  reputation  aa  the  Scotch  judges, 
and  deserve  it-  But  ail  the  lawyers  of  the  < 
taJ  of  England,  and  many  unfortunate  clients, 
know  the  "  Emperor  Paul/'  and  it  is  enough  to 


flio  object  of  which  won  original]/  simplicity  and  clearness, 
that  pleading!  ere  become  a  curious  piece  of  art,  in  wind. 
the  smallc*  derangement,  the  :m»t  iminl  omiuion,  stopeatt, 
However  important  Uw  cjuc  may  be,  if  the  writ  U  not  manu- 
factured according  to  rulet,  iFic  judge  ■  deaf  and  dumb  ;  and 
if  the  cavt  ahnuld  be  so  new,  thai  none  of  the  writ*  in  use  can 
possibly  apply  to  it.  and  the  chancellor  and  marten  In  chancer)' 
ihoul.i  not  be  able  to  agree  upon  one,  recourse  mud  be  had 
to  Parliament.  ( Cvnnrnpham't  Fj>x»  Dictionary.)  To  obvuir 
this,  the  signification  of  writs  U  stretched  to  the  uuncut,  under 
the  name  ofjictiont.  A  iuit  to  reenter  the  wage*  of  labour, 
for  Instance,  is  introduced  by  a  writ,  purporting,  that  the  de. 
ftndant  has  entered  forcibly  iltc  tirld  of  the  defendant,  brake 
down  hi*  incisures,  and  committed  other  depreciation*.  (Z»r* 
tolm)  U  ww  by  n  lietion  nf  that  aort  the  Roman  lawyers 
called  a  daughter  a  son ;  going  farther  than  hero,  where  It  ii 
received  that  Parliawcut  can  du  any  iluug,  encapt  under-  a  girl 
a  boy,  and  vice  tersrr. 

Plantm.  and  Terence  bare  furnished  m.iny  word*  and  forms 
te  modern  civilians,  whose  real  lias  transplanted  Into  their 
practice  Usee*  prccioctt  remains  of  the  advocate*  and  attorney* 
of  antiquity.  An  English  poet  has.  in  our  days,  made  a  simi* 
tar  bc<juent  to  posterity ;— a  witty  guide  to  the  prWrr: 
ture  ages. 


486     EDiemt-'ftOH — A.MUSF.ME!TT9 — WHICOfSM. 

narm  rcadcd  personage  to  illustrate  the 

danger  of  private  judiczil  procedures.    Merc  in- 
tegrity is  iw  guard  against  the  caprice  or  passion 

master. 
Tbr.-ir  snnilu.r,  nl  Weill  Fdinhurgti 

.ire,  a*  may  be  supposed,  as  close  an  imitation  of 
the  custom-*  and  fashions  of  Ix>ndon,  as  rcl 
circumstance*  of  wealth,  number-.,  fce  cm  a*l- 

oo  ifl  the  head- quart  era  of  trad  ■ 
financial  operations  and  the  focus  of  factions. 

iburgh  is  not  only  a  stranger  to  trade  and 
money. matter*,  but  the  only  political  party  there 
is tbc pvty ofobedfcnceand  loyalty.  Triertrare 
wings,  and  I  am  toJd  that  the  majority  of  the  le- 
gal ami  of  ibe  literary  men  are  of  (Jut.  party,  lr.it 
moderately  so.  You  meet  with  few  ot  U>c  i 
right  reformers  among  the  good  company  of 
Edinburgh,  and  none  among  the  lower  pcoph 
A  jacobin  t .  in  is  here  a  phenomenon,  ai 

the  individual  generally  a  man  of  bad  private 
character.     I   know    tMl  from  a  person  di 

hed  in  that  party  j  he  said  the  common  pec 
pie  were  all  lories,— that  among  them  uhiggim 
icas  rank  democracy.  You  hear  as  little  here 
about  political  traffic  as  about  commercial  traf- 
Bc  ;  nothing  BS  either  nought  or  sold;  D01 
tho*c  vile  passions  which  elsewhere  disfigure  to- 
ddy have  here  an  ■  r\  iple  lire  in  com- 
porative  mediocrity,  without  fear  of  losing  wl 


EDINBURGH — BOOT*. 


m 


they  have,  or  much  hope  of  improving  their  for- 
tune otherwise  than  by  prudence  and  economy ; 
thote  who  thirst  fbr  riohe*  DOM  lecfc  them  g 
where.     The  retoJt  of  all  this  is  a  certain  gene- 
ral impression  of  peace  and  tranquillity,  very 
striking  to   strangers ;  but  thia  repose  is  not 
slumber, — a  pursuit  of  sufficient  interest  nir: 
literature  and  the  sciences,  which  are  cultivated 
witli  zeal  and  success.   As  to  what  is  called  plea- 
sure, there  arc  I>ctc  asaetnblics  in  tlie  I-ondon 
style,  made  01  nuznerour.  :i-  possible;  bur,  not- 
withstanding die  efforts  of  a  laudable  emulation, 
the  inhabitant*  of  London  being  ten  to  one, 
Edinburgh  routs  cannot,  by  the  nature  of  tiling?, 
arrive  at  i  perfection  of  crowds  equal  to  thote 
of  the  capital.     It  is  often  possible  to  nit  and 
convene;  card*,  tod  evra  Gfaess,  are  not  quite 
excluded.    You  find  generally  one  or  two  tables, 
with  the  pamphlet*  of  the  day,  rare  and  valuable 
books  carelessly  heaped  up,  prints,  drawings, 
and  even  children's  play-things,  which  sonic  are 
glad  to  take  hold  uf,  by  way  of  appearing  amu- 
sed, when  they  are  least  disposed  to  lie  so.   The 
piano  is  another  play-thing,  upon  which  ayoufljg 
and  pretty  hand  b  seen,  but  little  listened  to. 
I  have  observed  that,  in  these  numerous  assem- 
blies, music  is  the  signal  for  a  general  itch 
:nt  of  tongues ;  evcu  those  who  were  silent  lie- 
talk  tlwn,  by  the  same  sort  of  secret  syw 


m 


EDWDVJlClr— <tt*AT£. 


pathy  which  swells  the  nati*  of  tiie  canary.liird 
in  his  cage  to  overpower  conversation.  A  trircle 
b  formed  round  the  instrument,— people  press 
about  the  performer,  talking,  a  qui  mitui  mitui. 
It  ii  indeed  most  true,  that,  nine  times  out  of* 
ten,  the  performer  am)  her  instrument  produce 
at  best  but  a  harmonious  noise  ;— the  more  cxe- 
>tu  the  leas  music  The  hours  arc  less  late 
here  than  in  London ;  they  do  not  quite  turn  tlie 
night  into  day.  Day  indeed  is  little  more  than 
nominal :  At  twelve  o'clock,  the  sun  is  so  low, 
that  the  shadow  of  the  houses  across  a  very  wide 
street,  although  only  three  stories  high, covers! 
first  story  af  the  apposite  sjdc  These  were 
pie  of  quality  in  Greece  at  t\  ■  /  raf  its 

grates!  luxury,  who  boasted  that  they  had  ne- 
ver seen  the  BOB  ;  if  there  is  any  merit  in  over- 
coming difficulties*  they  might  have  bm  vain  of 
having  seen  it  here.  The  climate  of 
doc:*  without  *tm  better  than  any  other  ; 

winter  is  neutralized  by  the  surrounding  sea, — 
the  thermometer  is  a  little  below  freezing  in  the 
night,— just  as  much  above  in  the  day, — there  a 
BOS0OW] — the  grass  isquitc  green,— and  we  have 
frequently  calm  and  clear  days,  wanting  only  a 
1 1  i  !v  duration  A  line  Ml  ning, — a  fine  evening, 
follow  each  other,  without  noon  ;  six  or 
hours  of  light  in  the  twenty-fonr. 
Mr  Liston,  known  so  advantageously  in  the 


EDIXBBRGH — MA  LIST02C— -  MR  SCOTT.       489 


United  States  (vhm  I  wish,  for  the  sake  of  the 
two  countries,  he  was  still  ambassador),  has  a 
wry  pretty  residence  in  this  nwghbourhood  of 
Edinburgh,  where  he  has  planted  (nr  rati .it  Mm 
L.  has,)  an  American  garden,  lull  of  the  native* 
of  our  fields,  and  of  our  woods,  to  which  we  find 
Mome  difficulty  in  granting  that  degree  of  consi- 
deration due  to  their  rank  of  exotics.  These 
plant*  thrive  remarkably  well  in  their  almost  po- 
lar situation.  Mr  L.  was  formerly  the  companion 
of  Mirabcau  in  a  military  school  in  France.  He 
tells  several  interesting  um  >1  r his  cele- 

brated personage,  and  lias  preserved  some  of  his 
letters,  written  at  the  age  of  seventeen.  Good 
for  nothing  from  his  earliest  youth,  witty,  turbu- 
lent, and  factious,  as  he  shewed  himself  after- 
wards, Minriwau  exposed  himself  frequently  to 
merited  punishment,  always  borne  vety  impa- 
tiently. Once  he  refused  obstinately  to  leave 
his  place  of  confinement,  where  he  said  he  had 
been  put  unjustly,  unless  due  reparation  was 
made  to  him.  Mr  L.,  early  a  negotiator,  was 
•elected  to  reason  with  him,  and  bring  him,  if 
possible,  to  his  right  semes-  "  You  arc  destined/* 
he  said  10  him,  u  to  tin*  UfrJfcsaton  of  arms  in 
Frond- 1  liuw  can  you  expect  to  succeed  with 
this  undisciplinable  spirit?"  "Ah!"  he  answered, 
striking  his  forehead  with  his  hand,  "  tlut  is  too 
true  j— why  was  1  not  born  In  a  country  like 


i9o 


EMWIUWH— **  SCOTT. 


yours,  wlierc  merit  need  not  pay  court  to  power, 
and  the  road  to  distinction  lies  open !" — tbi 
denounced  vengeance  against  Uie  existing  state 
of  ihings  in  France. 

Wc  coafd  not  be  at  Kdmburgh  without  * 
sag  to  ace  the  Caledonian  lord,  whose  fertile 
and  brilliant  genius  produces  poems  with  the  ra- 
pidity of  thought, — and  we  have  been  gratiricrl. 
Mr  Scott  II  ft  tall  and  stout  man,  thirty-fu 
forty  year*  of  age  ;  very  lame  from  some  acci- 
«1l'ii:  in  bb  early  youth*  His  countenance  is  not 
particularly  poetical,— complexion  fair,  with 
coarse  skin, — little  beard, — sandy  hair,— and 
r  eyes  and  eye- brows  ; — the  taut  enaemblc  ra- 
ther doll  and  heavy  :  Yet  when  lie  speaks  which 
hi'  is  not  always  disposed  to  do,  and  is  animated, 
his  eye  lightens  up 

•'  Willi  all  ■  poci*  ccNacr/* 

This  poet  likes  conviviality,  and  teJU  well,  am 
r«f  amwe,  such  stories  as  are  told  here  only  all 
dinner.     He  is  n  great  tory,  and  consequently 
warm  friend  of  liberty  (in  Spain),— a  disposition, 
I  have  already  observed,  characu  of  bis 

..    His  disapprobation  of  a  certain  article  ii 
the  Edinburgh  Review,  on  Ceval  logbook,  indu- 
ced him  to  withdraw  his  name  from  the  Ii 
ribcrs.  This  article  i*,  in  one  sense,  fir* 


£J>DTBV1tGB — KB  SCOTT. 


491 


ly  to  Spanish  liberty,  but  then  not  in  the  right 
*en*e.  Mr  Scott  has  a  valuable  place,  which 
had  been  promised  him  by  the  ministry  which 
■receded  Mr  Fox's,  but  he  was  not  in  possession 
rlicn  they  went  out,  and  some  of  Mr  Fo\\  i 
ic*  objected  to  his  having  it,  wying  it  was 
a  job.  "  It  is  at  least  a  job  in  favour  of  gen  i 
answered  Mr  Fox,  with  that  liberality  and  gene- 
rosity which  distinguished  him  so  particularly, 
"  it  does  not  happen  often,  and  is  not  danger* 
oiut."  Mr  SeOtt  had  the  place  ; — and  I  hope 
justice  to  the  memory  of  his  whig  patron.  * 


The  author  «v  vary  imp«rf»ci!y  acquainted  with  tfce  suite 
if  the  ca*e  when  he  ventured  upon  this  anecdote;  and  »«  no- 
thing that  rrUu.it  10  a  gentleman  «o  jumlv  celebrated  as  Mr 
Scott  can  bo  uninteresting  to  the  public.  In-  will  now  ilste  what 
hr  has  reason  to  believe  is  the  correct  User. 

Mr  PittV  attention  bad  been  early  attracted  by  the  first 
of  Mr  Scott's  poetical  gCmus,  partii  tilm.,  the  Lay 
'Um  Last  Minstrel,  and  he  took  so  much  interest  :n  tin 
tmm  of  the  port  8*  to  rvque-i  Kr  WBDtm  Oundns  that  he 
might  be  provided  (or  in  such  a  manner  as  tuigsri  leav*  ban 
leisure  to  attend  to  his  Literary  pursuits.  This  appttra  to  hate 
bern  his  own  unsolicited  motion.  The  author  undcr-tinnd*, 
from  varum*  connections,  partly  ofn  family  not 
ig  from  rsrly  friendships,  Mr  .Scott's  Interest  *m  inde- 
pendent even  o(  this  powerful  aupport,  and  tuat,  bad  he  been 
inclined  to  pursue  his  profession  (the  bar),  he  had  a  right  to 
look  forward  to  eoasiderttril  promotion,  aa  he  lived  in  intimma 
babitl  w»:h  the  late  Lord  Mc'viMc  and  with  the  BucoJeoca 
ily,  and  was  connected  Tiiili  srrerol  other  families,  of  weight 


KDDt  BURGH— MR  SCOTT- 

Th€  celebrated  Brahaon  is  here,  and  wc  have 
heard  him  in  the  opera  of  the  Siege  of  Belgrade, 


aewl  Intrreet  j  eo  ckat  he  had  other  cuamu  bvtidea  Uxwe  ef 
gtoiui  for  iofrodiKXioa  into  society ,  or  ice  prospect*  ia  lift ; 
and  however  mslujuhro  ni  the  sormcc  may  appim  in  the  eye  of 
posterity  compared  to  th*  Utter,  their  coniji*r»liTC  importance 
■  *tcn«d  differently  during  the  lifetime  of  celebrated  men* 

Abeaat  the  year  1806.  Mr  Scott  applied  fee  An  pUoe  of 
Clock  of  Session  be  no*  holde,  and  to  man  had  pro* 

baferr  ■  better  claim ;  hi*  predecease*  wee  incapacitated  by  ia>- 
flrmlliei  from  discharging  iu  duties  end  aueined  entitled  by 
hi*  loof  anica  to  retire  ou  a  pension  ;  but  there  was  not  at 
the  time  any  precision  by  low  fee  the  ccae  of  superannuation, 
Bad  fit  wm  usual  la  suofa  caves  co  gnat  a  Joint  commission  te 
ths>  aacumbeot  and  eiurreaea,  when  *U  ia*>  emoluuwnc*  irere 
assigned  to  the  former,  and  oJ  the  dataee  io  dm  laatcr.      This 
«aa  accordsotfy  the  rate  of  Mr  Scott,  who  performed  the 
tic*  of  Clerk  ef  fieaeioo  foe  a'ut  rear*  without  any  emoJuaaeo* ; 
and  if  luch  an  ea^gerneot  could  be  catted  mjot,  it  aa*areo?y 
was  but  an  unpsotaable  one  oo  liu  side    M  to  the  nsode  ef 
eotaiMfC  this  place  or  exptctaocT,  it  aa/pcara,  that  abotct  the 
time  of  Mr  Kit's  death,  and  before  the  sweaolutioa  of  hat  ad- 
miniitmuoo,  Mr  Scott'e  commies  ion  had  ecluaUy  been  raaae 
out  and  eigned  br  hat  majesty ;— he  came  to  London  with  the 
mcssnoaaafereeigiiai  Ion  Ifl  In*  pofkri,.»nd  mi^hi  lune  taken  out 
the  araatiuMon  oo  paying  the  foe*.    Tlis  he  area  pearcatad 
doing  by  tome  accidental  cir<uiu>uincav  awdhe  had  efciaaaary 
la  apply  to  the  new  edmmi* ration      Lard  Spencer  wee  the 
ineeabar  to  whom  ha  applied,  through  Ued  Staflord  and 
SotnorriUe,  for  the  iedulaasxe  usual  oo  a  change  ef  adaai 
turn,  of  pavaina*  such  pranta  as  are  io  a  certain  state  erf  pi  us; fane, 
unices  an  impropriety  caa  ha  ci*aUcn*«cdl  Mr  Fox  ia  aaasr*  to 
hare  c « j.rrs»«d  hie  admiration  of  Mr  Scott  a  ideate,  and  to  haro 


tawa 


EDLVBUHGH — Mft  SCOTT —  BXAHAM, 


493 


a  rno=r  wretched  peribrmuicc,— too  bad  even  for 
the  British  public  to  bear  with  patience,  Accus- 
tomed as  it  is  to  modern  stupidities.  I  percei- 
ved many  sign*  of  wcarmex*  and  impatieiicr 
amongst  the  audience.  KnUiam  has  an  astonish- 
mr*  voice,  and  of  the  mo*t  uncommon  sort-— « 
fine  counter-tenor,  clear  and  powerful ;   but  he 

r declared,  Mat  *  w-H  or  better  te  let  ike  mMtrr  (the  place)  6* 
car,  aad  confer  it  as  ajmour  oxmag  dtrecUiffrom  hit  admitd* 
xiraticn  t  but  when  three  vxprtwunt  were  repeated  to  Mr 
Scott,  the  warrant  was  already  in  hit  possession.  Lord  Spencer 
having  At  oner,  and  in  the  most  liberal  manner,  ordered  she 
natwiarion  to  be  Issued,  vsyine;.  tit  considered  it  as  a  mere  act 
of  juttut,  and  would  hare  hrrn  highly  plefised  had  it  bvea  ono 
of/Ercesir.  Mr  Scutt  appears  to  have-  bad  the  derided  ^ni\ 
wishes  or  Mr  Vox,  and  would  undoubtedly  have  had  his  patron- 
age if  it  had  been  necessary.  The  author  heard  Mr  Scott  de- 
clare, that  hr  would  liavc  been  proud  or  it  at  a  mark  of  du- 
tiucuoa  from  ono  of  the  most  accompli  Jied  and  amiable  men, 
jm  w«U  as  one  of  the  ableat  statesmen,  of  the  period  in  which  he 
lived-  But  as,  in  point  of  fact,  he  was  not  honoured  with  his 
fjiromiKv,  be  liud  only  to  sbow  hit  respect  for  bis  memory  In 
the  same  proportion  with  that  part  of  tho  Rriliah  public  who 
rcapecud  Mr  Foa's  talents  and  nccompluhmcois,  while  they 
held  duTrrwit  political  upintou*. 

Mr  Scott  is  assuredly  entitled  io  that  fairness  and  liberality 
hr  haahin.-rtr.  vu.red  in  the  account  he  has  given  to  the  pub- 
lic (Paul's  Letters)  of  a  country  so  Indiscriminately  abused  of 
lata,  particularly  from  a  native  of  that  country. 

The  author  leaves  as  it  was  the  genera)  account  given  of 
Mr  Scott,  ro<  ■■  usjt  any  alteration  would  euppON  sV  Bt> 

undue  importance  to  have  been  attached  to  superficial  lemarks 


(94 


EDINBURGH— H&AIMM — PILLORY 


want*  simplicity  and  frding.    The  petite  pi 
WM  the  Village  Lawyer  |  a  mediocre  translation 

ir  excellent  Avocat  Patclin.   The  Edtnln 
theatre  is  diminutive,  paltry,  and  li:  ■  rent- 

ed. A  town  of  the  same  rank  in  France  would 
have  a  large  theatre,  always  full.  Here  people 
spend  their  evenings  generally  at  Jiou.r.— t/u-ir 
main  dependence  for  happiness  is  there  ;  and  -.lie 
pleasures  found  abroad  are  mere  casualties.  The 
oeh  will  not  envy  this  mode  of  life  Yet  the 
incapacity  of  enjoying  simple  and  natural  pica- 
Mire*  does  not  imply  an  aptitude  for  others.  The 
Freneh  often  feel  satiety  and  ennui  abroad, — 
h  i«  the  worst  that  could  hate  happened  at 
home. 

The  late  scandalous  pillory  scene  in  the  Hay- 
market  having  lieen  mentioned  lately  in  com- 
pany here,  one  of  the  Scotch  judge*  (Lords  of 
>n)  expressed  Jus  marked  disapprolotion  of 
tbe  pwecntfaw  and  punishment,  and  declared 
their  courts  would  110L  OOUDtCDOncC  any  such 
proceedings.  Several  persons  of  distinction  were 
mentioned,  now  prosecuted  in  England,  or  threat- 
ened with  vexations  charges  of  the  same  iuturv  ; 
which,  true  nr  false,  inflict  provisionally  shame, 
ridicule,  and  exile. 

Jan.  I,  )811. — There  is  no  sleeping  the  first 
night  of  the  year  at  Edinburgh.  It  is  a  received 
custom  for  the  common  people  to  give  a  kiss  to 


EDINBCRGH MANSEF.S. 


49:, 


any  woman  met  in  the  ureeLs  about  midnight, 
on  foot,  or  in  carriage*-  Few  women  expose 
Ives  to  this  rude  salutation.  But  the  street* 
arc  full,  notwithstanding,  of  unruly  boys,  who 
knock  at  house  doQOi  and  make  a  noise-  all  night* 
This  is  a  little  relic  of  die  coarse  manner*  of 
termer  times  which  is  still  tolerated  ;  and,  con- 
sidering what  this  country  was  before  its  union 
with  England,  there  is  perhaps,  more  reason  to 
be  astonished  at  the  advanced  state  of  its  police, 
than  otherwise. 

Ficr  commc  un  Eccssois,  is  said  proverbially  in 
France,  and  the  English  arc  nut  sparing  of  tlieir 
reproaches  against  Scotland,  for  the  pride  of  its 
inhabitant* ;  yet  you  certainly  meet  with  more 

wcxenanct  from  them  than  from  their  neighbours; 
more  of  the  essentials  of  politeness,  under  forms 
perhaps  lew  gentle  and  elegant.  It  is  certainly 
remarkable  enough,  that  the  Scotch  accuse  the 

inglish  of  ■  soft  and  washy  manners  ;M — a  novel 
sort  of  imputation  against  Lheui  assuredly,  and 
moat  unexpected. 
There  existed  in  England,  during  the  greatest 
of  the  last  century,  a  sort  of  jealous  ill-will 
ist  the  Scotch.  It  was  the  fashion  to  mil  nt 
lln'.r  poverty,  their  rapaeiou*  industry,  the  proud 
servility  of  their  manners,  their  unclcanliness, 
and,  finally,  their  itch.  The  works  of  the  best 
writer*  of  the  time,  the  conversations  and  fat 


496      EDINBURGH— BOSWBtt'S  LIFE  OF  JOHNSON. 

jftt/j,  recorded  in  letters  snd  memoir*,  puUiihr.fi 
since*  tlie  very  speeches  in  Parliament,  were  full 
of  ill.tutured  and  vulgar  remarks,  of  rial  jokes, 
in  the  rcry  worst  taste.  This  theme,  which  ap- 
peared to  fertile,  is  at  last  quite  exhausted ;  and 
all  this  local  wit  strike*  now  as  very  dull.  '11k? 
ious  witticisms  of  our  Voltaire  on  Freron,  on 
M.le  Franc  de  Pom pignan,  and  so  many  other  un- 
fortunate adversaries,  which  amused  France  and 
all  En  rope  at  the  time,  hare  haul  the  same  fate,  and 
inspire  now  no  other  interest  or  sentiment  than 
those  of  pity,  surprise,  and  disgust.  Dr  Johnson, 
die  giant  of  English  literature,  was  one  of  the 
last  who  indulged  in  satirical  remarlrq  and  coarse 
•base  against  the  Scotch.  His  admirable  histo- 
rian, Boswell,  has  transmitted  them  to  poste- 
rn a  work  more  amusing  than  the  best  novel,  and 
more  useful  than  the  best  history.  As  a  portrait 
from  nature  of  the  manners,  customs  and  ways 
of  thinking  cf  his  own  time,  delin 
simplicity  and  a  candour  of  vanity,  which  sets  cri- 
ticism and  ridicule  at  defiance,  you  find  yourself 
in  the  best  society  the  country  could  aft 
most  learned,  the  cleverest,  and  the  most  *itty. 
It  is  conversation,  all  substance  and  spirit ;  never 
languid,  weak,  or  insignificant ;  enjoyed  without 
the  painful  effort  of  bearing  a  part  in  it,  or  the 
fidgctty  consciousness  of  your  own  dulness  and 
silence.  Something  like  reading  by  your  fireside 


tOINBURCfl— UWVF.ILSITY. 


407 


of  mighty  battles  and  sieges,  of  distant  voyages, 
of  hair-breach  1 1  escape*  -9  you  (fed  all  the  enlhu. 
liuin,  and  you  partake  of  all  the  glory,  without 
any  of  the  drudgery  and  toil,  weariness,  fatigue, 
and  danger. 

I  do  not  know  whether  the  Scotch  ever  shew, 
ed  much  resentment  at  «o  many  insults;  they 
certainly  shew  none  at  present  ;  .-.ml  disarm  ca- 
lumny more  etfectuaily  by  this  good  sense  and 
moderation,  than  they  could  by  -my  other  means. 
I  have  seen  on  the  stage,  in  London,  a  tolerably 
#ood  play.  The  Mun  of  ike  Worlds  ailnitubly  act- 
ed by  Cooke,  in  which  a  Scotchman,  Sir  Pcttinax 
Macsycopltant,  is  tl  i<al  personage;  a  de- 

signing fawning  scoundrel,  who,  in  order  to  ini- 
tiate his  son  into  the  ways  of  the  world,  which 
have  made  bis  own  fortune,  tells  him,  very  im- 
probably, but  very  pleasantly,  of  all  his  bate 
practices  ami  maxima.  This  play  is  acted  in 
Scotland,  and  received  with  great  good-humour. 

Edinburgh  is  the  Birmingham  of  literature  ; — 
a  new  place,  which  lias  its  fortune  to  make.  The 
two  great  universities,  Oxford  and  Cambridge, 
repose  themselves  under  the  shade  of  i 
rels,  while  Edinburgh  cultivates  hers.  The  ex- 
terior of  the  establishment  of  education  is  very 
modest  indeed.  Tly»  professors  arc  soldiei 
fortune,  who  live  by  their  sword, — that,  is  to  say, 

VOL.  I.  fi  I 


49S 


EOUf BDRCH— UKI VI  i; 


by  their  talent*  and  rcpctatiuu.  They  generally 
dc|K!i»J  Tor  their  income  on  the  number  of  stu- 
dcDla  who  attend  dieir  lectures,  and  who  pay 
each  L.S,  6s.  for  the  course.  The  numb« 
from  30 or  40  to  300  or  400.  Mr  \'lA\Uiiu  pro- 
fessor of  natural  philosophy  ;  Dr  Hope,  of  chc- 

ryj    I)r   Brown,  vuccesaor  of  Mr   Dugald 
Stewart,  of  moral  philosophy ;  DrGn  I  me- 

dicine ;  Mr  Leslie,  of  math  ,  Lh  Thorn- 

nog  of  surgery,  &c. ;  are,  1  believe,  those  who 
have  the  greatest  number  of  students.  The  stu- 
dent* do  not  appear  to  me  subject  to  much,  it' 
any,  collegiate  discipline.  They  board  out,  wear 
ui»  particular  drew*,  ami  it  ink  e  what  use  llicy 
please  of  their  time.  1  understand*  however, 
they  are  in  genera)  studious,  and  I  have  certain- 
ly observed  much  zeal  and  emulafiou  am 
them.  A  few  of  the  rich.  v.  live  in  tome  of  the 
professors'  families.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  sec 
grown  men,  even  old  men,  inhabitant*  of  the 
jdiue,  tknd  *f  rangers  attend  such  of  the  lectures 
as  interest  them.  Hull"  of  the  audience  of  the 
professor  of  agriculture,  Mr  Coventry,  appeared 
to  me  composed  of  farmers.  This  professo 
1  am  told,  a  person  of  eminent  merit.  1  vrbb  hi* 
ils  would  advise  him  to  speak  a  little  louder. 

a  the  third  row,  I  was  not  able  to  he 
than  half  he  said,  am)  I  have  no  reason  to  sup- 
pose that  his  country  auditors  caught  ruorc  than 


KDIN)li:fU;H — L'SIVERSITY — DR  GREGORY.    499 


I  did.  The  learned  professor  loses,  I  am  per- 
suaded,  by  this  bad  habit,  at  least  one  huttd  id 
.Undents  >  but  the  fields  of  Scotland  must  be  tin: 
greatest  sufferers. 

l)r  Gregory  lectures  in  a  manner  peculiar  to 
himself.  Seated  in  the  centre  of  a  vast  amphi- 
theatre, covered  with  500  head*,  his  hat  on,  and 
tdnymg  with  the  case  of  his  spectacles,  lie  speaks 
without  any  notes,  and  in  a  tone  of  conversation. 
The  only  tini<;  I  Val  present,  the  subject  was  the 
disorders  of  the  liver,  occasioned,  he  said,  almost 
exclusively,  by  the  heat  of  southern  climates,  and 
hy  intemperance.  He  rrprmrd,  in  strong  terms, 
the  vulgar  e\pn-Muu  of  keeping  the  liver  afloat, 
that  is  to  say,  continuing  to  drink  as  a  cut  for 

hat  is  the  effect  of  drinking.  To  illustiute  i 
he  told  us  a  story  of  certain  British  officers  who 
liail  fallen  into  the  hands  of  Tippoo  Saib,  and 
were  dctaiiuil  tlircc  year*  in  irons,  because  they 
refused  to  enter  his  service.  1  'I  icy  were  treated 
with  barbarous  rigour.  A  handful  of  rice,  bull- 
ed into  gruel,  was  the  daily  ration  to  each.  Tiiey 
were  chained  two  and  two,  and  several  of  them 
dying  of  their  wounds,  tfic  deatl  bodies  remain- 
ed, in  some  UDiUnca,  fastened  to  the  living,  uu. 
til  they  fell  into  decay.  None  of  thcoi  hoped  to 
live  long ;  yet  they  not  only  lived,  but  the  livcr- 
coinplaintsj  under  which  several  of  then  labour- 


500      rD:»MJ»G**-UN!VBBflITY— -  MR  LRA1.IF. 

cd,  disappeared  by  decrees  >  and  when,  after 
their  long  captivity,  ilicy  relumed  to  Calcutta* 
they  Ii'imil  nuny,  whom  they  had  lcJ't  wcU,  dead 
<»l  the  \eiy  disorder  of  which  they  had  been  cu- 
red by  the  rcmbtc  prescription  oi  'i  ippoo  Saib. 
medical  anecdote  «  possibly  very  well 
known,  1ml  it  was  new  to  me,  and  to  a  great 
number  of  student*,  who  evidently  listened  to  it 
with  great  interest,  as  well  as  to  some  other*, 
i  .  introduced  very  naturally,  and  with 
I  aflbet  lie  has  certainly  the  art  of  com- 
manding the  attention  of  his  pupib.  They  ma- 
nifested their  interest  from  time  to  time,  by  a 
Utile  murmur  ot  mpphutsc,  wiiich  the-  protestor 
checked  by  a  motion  of  the  hand,  and  went  ou. 
He  observed,  thai  Uic  disorders  of  the  liver  axe 
always  more  rapid  in  their  progress  at  the  pay 
time  of  the  troop*,  in  the  East  and  Weal  Indies, 
Trie  hi  ipht  of  the  liver,  which,  in  healthy  sub* 
jeets  is  about  three  pounds  and  a  half,  increases 
to  eig-itcwi  or  twenty-four  pounds  and  becomes 
eo  hard,  that  the  sJi-  stnimonta  penetrate 

it  with  difficult  v. 

Mr  Leslie,  known  in  rJic  scicntiiic  world  by 
many  h  gcniou  researches  on  the  subjects  of 
lii*ht  and  heat,  and  by  his  laic  discovery  of  con- 
gelation in  vacuo,  was  so  obliging  as  to  repeat 
several  times  in  our  presence,  this  brilliant  ex- 


KDJVDURCII— METAPHYs' 


SM 


petiment.  In  seven  minutes,  a  cup  of  pure  wa- 
ter, under  the  recipient  of  the  pneumatic  ma- 
:%  l^caine  a  urns  of  ice.  Had  it  been  warm 
weather,  tlkC  process  would  not  liave  taken  mure 
than  five  minute*,  by  the  greater  rapidity  of  eva- 
poration, litis  circumstance  render*  his  dis- 
covery the  more  valuable  in  tropical  climates ; 
and  Mr  Leslie  has  contrived  a  simple  apparatus, 
for  practical  use,  which  costs,  I  think,  twenty 
guineas. 

It  was  the  fortune  of  this  philosopher  d  la 
glare  to  kindle,  some  years  ago,  a  metaphysical 
flame  between  the  men  of  letteitt  and  the  church* 
men  of  this  learned  town,  lie  chose,  1  do  not 
know  exactly  why,  to  allude,  in  a  work  of  phy- 
sical science,  to  the  doctrine  of  Hume  concern- 
ing the  relation  of  cause  and  effect.  This  was 
supposed  to  be  an  indirect  attack  on  the  great 
First  Cause,— and  I  would  not  answer  for  it  that 
it  was  not,  for  the  Scotch  philosophers  lave  been 
grievously  suspected  of  a  leaning  towards  in  fide- 
lity. The  clergy  of  the  kirk  thought  it  their  duty 
to  oppose  the  election  of  an  infidel  to  tlie  pro- 
fessowhip  >— • the  men  of  letter*  drew  the  pen  in 
defence  of  their  brother  philosopher,  and  thus  a 
mat  d  toutcQxttrawx  was  waged.  Professor  D.  S. 
wrote  with  great  severity ;— Professor  P.  with 
keen  irony  ;—Dr  T.  B.  logically.  The  doctrine 
of  causation,  as  it  i*  called,  shows,  to  the  great 


S09 


EDnratntGii — vktai 


satisfaction  of  tlic  learned,  that  the  constant  re- 
turn of  light  with  the  rising  sun,  is  do  proof  that 
the  oceeds  from  that  body.     It  teaches 

you  to  say,  tint  raw  event  has  invariably  follow- 
ed the  other,  but  warns  you  against  the  rash 
portion  thai  *  Cause  of  it,  as  in  fact, 

know    nothing  about  causes, — the   old   vulgar 
apophthegm  of  no  rfirct  without  a  ctutv,  be 
for  any  thing  we  know  to  the  contrary,  wi 

'titous.  Huroc  did  not  doubt  of  the  existence 
of  causes  alone,  but  of  effects  likewise  ; — that  is 
to  any,  of  the  existence  of  the  whole  external 
world,  as  it  appears  to  our  senses.    He  Kuhstitu- 
tcd  to  extent*!  rcuitties  certain  ideas  existing  ii 
the  mind,  which,  at  the  same  time,  due*  not  i\ 
self  exist,  or  is  only  a  simple  modification  of  i 
tcr ;  u  most  ingeniously  reasoning  us  out  ol 
ry  ground  of  certainty,  and  even-  criterion  of 
troth  ;  involving  self-evident  questions  in  obsci 
ritv  and  confusion,  and  entangling  our  under- 
standing in  metaphysical  abstractions  ;""  or,  as 
Hume  himself  said  of  Berkley,  "  His  argument* 
admit  of  no  answer,  and  produce  no  conviction, 
but  only  momentary  amazement  and  irrcsolu- 


i>  r«tcou»- 


EDINBURGH — SffET.trilVSJCd. 


soo 


Metaphysical  researches  lead  you  back  at  last 
to  some  self-evident  proposition,  fot  the  truth  of 
which  coiuciouMiess  is  the  only  evidence  ;  a?,  in 
the  system  of  the  world,  attraction  is  admitted 
as  a  cause,  although  this  occult  property  of  mat- 
ter can  only  be  proved  by  its  effects. 

With  minds  so  keenly  alive  to  abstruse  en  qui- 
jies  as  these  northern  philosophers  possess,  they 
could  not  possibly  pM  by  thai  nuwt  inextricable 
of  all  metaphysical  puzzles,  free- nil!  and  neces- 
sity. We  find  iheiu  accordingly  to  have  been 
must  warmly  engaged  in  debates  on  the  subject, 
reasoning  always  victorious  on  one  side,  and  coo- 
viction  on  the  other."     One  of  the  inevitable 


•  Adam  8mlthj n  wcli  known  on  the  Continent  of  Kumpo, 
by  hi»  great  woi*  oa  the  Wealth  of  Nation*,  treated,  in  nimihr; 
woiktuuchk'ss known,  (Theory  ul"  Mural  Srntitmu!.}  certain- 
ly ury  prolix  and  heavy,  this  thorny  question  of  free-will  and 
Deceit!!)',  and  proved,  of  couitv,  ncrtuity. 

The  above  note  has  been  greatly  centurtd,  and  the  audior 
suspected  of  deciding  on  the  mrrii*  nf  a  work  Up  h/nl  not  even 
rr  id,  The  truth  is.  he  had  not  read  k  for  many  years  vhco 
lie  gsv*  this  rush  opinion,  ami  IrusltJ  to  hit  osflsnory,  which, 
as  it  appears,  was  oot  to  be  trusted.  It'  bl  BOW  vrnturr- 
on  nn  opinion,  he  hrgs  to  be  BftdsmtOod  u  giving  it  wiili  r!l 
proper  doubt  and  diffidence,  and  he  would  nut  hav*  gircn  it 
at  all,  If  the  recantation  he  feels  himself  bound  to  make  did 
not  in  *omc  DMUON  P  <|uir«  it- 
Adam  Smith's  theory  of  moral  sentiments  is  founded  on  the 
supposed  sympathy  we  feel,  by  bringing  any  case  of  lull 


50+ 


■DfXftUKGII—  METAPHYSICi. 


cofMqucnccs  of  the  doctrine  of  ncccssitv,  And 
explicitly  admit t  iti  advocate,  is,  that  re*. 


«> 


firiibyoO^^io 


it  U  a  lifWr saaocstoa*.  *  rtcedJeetsoa  of  what  w«  h«*  UK  «• 
conception  of  •hat  we  might  feel,  in  a  ^inDar  •i-.oiiion.  Yet 
this  •jnnpsukj  i»  not  Mmply  une  of  bodily  feelings,  it  iin-plja  aa 
■^probation  of  aaotrrea,  rt^uirw^  the  age**?  of  nw»,  «ud 
Bjfcttf  petha**  a*  w*Q  bf  called  simply  apprabtboa,  A«*m 
Smith  doc*  not,  however,  admit  mere  «(-;  >  i<»  bv  a  ao- 

ti»r,  nil  certain  jilr  i.urjbU:  t**lu*tg1  rave  grown  out  of  it,  and 
hate  b«a  satartd  into  moral  fin/Mrs  ,  wh«  I*  fgrrvdbfe,  he 
•ays  to  tftkcaa  moral  ftscartiea,  U  fit,  aod  ri^ht,  and  prr  per  to  be 
dooe;  the  c*irt  nnr,  wrong*  unfit,  improper,  llw  tvntuxuHita 
kIiii-Ii  tc  of.  *rc  frai-rfnf  and  ■     -■.* .  the  con* 

■  i'»  atki  unbecoming       Iuu  nry  wo 
trro^r,,  fit,  proper,  improper^  preefxr*  unvrr&Hing,  mean  tn/y 
tsA«.'  j&a*r*  «r  dttplw*  that* /acniiut,  (p.  et*2).     In  short, 
Adam  Smith's  M-rue  of  dure  it  him  ply  tease  of  pleasure.     A 
moral  w«*C,  analogous  m  out  physioI  •  i  med; 

Itcsontments  for  injuries  done  to  nurseN'es,  in  the  first  In  I 
create*,  by  aanociiUinn,  an  abhor  rvmr 

uthers :  and  we  should  bo  for  ever  deprived  of  this  moral  sense 
if  »i*  ii  nd  orbrm  artilicully  taught  to  feel 

soowtJunj;  of lUtTeTiiigi  Indicted  and  wrongs  committed. 

i  being  the  governing  principal*  of  human  nature,  tlwj 
to    in  .led  a*  the  ceaa* 

rnanrfmcntJ  and  U<r*  of  the  Deity,  promulgjud  by  Its  Wec- 
gurrou  within  uc  (agrevaMv  ur  dwa^r(.i.-.vl>lr  J.  '\hty  consti- 
tute rule*  to  direct  the  Jure  udnmt  of  *cn,  and  are  it  leaded 
by  rrmardt  end  punitkmentt,  inward  sliamr,  and  *eIr*-coapdetn> 
nation,— or  tranquillity  of  mind,  cowie«im.-rrr,  -:nd  lelf-tMtt fac- 
tion. How  men  can  ever  brinje  thernselros  10  perform  such 
duiita  as  nre  the  reverse  of  pleasurable,  in  any  poasslblc  aesae 


EDJNIlUaGH — METAPHYSICS. 


505 


mors?.,  or  trifiblamr,  is  an  erroneous  fc*fing.  Such 
u  result  might  well  have  marie  them  pause,  ami 


of  the  word,  and  item  exclusively  referable  to  simple  moral 
approbation,  remains  unexplained  in  thi*  theory. 

Nor  is  the  account  nf  thut  scntimiwt  colled  remoric  wholly 
•  lory.     Ueroorsc  uv  described  u  a  mere 
the  opinion*  ami  fc«lingath*  world  happeni  to  entertain  of  the 
j.jriu-ulttr  act  producing  remorse;  and  detection  it  the 
ingredient  in  (ho  composition  of  remorse;  Tec  instance*  on? 
not  uncommon  of  guilty  individual!  ted.  m  •  In  . 
tcsaiun,  an  Alleviation  of  the  feeling  of  remorse:  lliQt  is,  seek- 
ing a  remedy  in  the  rery  eaiwc  of  the  pain,  nnA,  who!  in  tiu>rrt 
finding  it  effectual.     Every  man  of  any  tci 
less  experienced  the  wantofowninglmn.r.iiiit  tin-  wrong,  when 
could  be  lh«  accuser.      Iteuiurse,  liltc  ma 
it*,  ic  a  compound  fc*linr»,  and  the  ahjmc  nr  terror  nf 

.ii  ir:  don  it  admitted  to  aata  bta  in  oomposition i  but  aoJR 

blame,  or  the  rotuciousarsa  that  it  was  in  our  power  to  lirre 
otherwise  than  we  hare  done,  may  still  be  considered  aa 
the  sharpest  mid  moat  aalutuiy  (A  Id  panpi.  It  surely  ix  >omc- 
ihing  more  than  the  mere  regret  uf  natural  meuul  ikfiirmiti/, 
and  there  must  be  some  real  dirTercnor  between  the  manioc 
who  luIU(  and  the  sane  man  who  aaaaaalnate*  hli  brodatt* 

T!.i<  rails  into  the  question  of  tree- will  and  necessity,  but  !«r 
from  deciding  in  favour  uf  ntxaouly.  Adam  Smith  mentions 
<\pi...Iv    iliv  Jrerdum   o/#0HpH   of  m*n,  (p.  -'S3:)    what  that 

freedom  U  the  author  oww  he  doea  not  understand, «  the  de- 
ling c-suara  or  motivca  of  the  actions  of  men  ore,  ■ 
theory  oa  by  most  others,  quite  external  uiJ  out  mi  their  D09> 
troul,  and  therefore  th«y  arc  001   n     to  the  common  accepta- 
tion ci  1' day  word. 

Notwithstanding  the  merit  of  lata  work,  to  which  thai 
is  not  intratvblr,  the  .mil  The 

VOL    J.  3k 


SQ6 


»:uistoUin.l\ — METAWIVb 


ausped  llutt  there  waa  a  fallacy  somewhere  in 
chain  of  Mliic&pro  rr.uch.    The 

eraic  character,— the  sanity  and  rectitude 
of  judgment  of  a  people   like  t Ti is,   neutralize 
and   |  i    abuse* 

They  m  in  no  haste  tu  decide, — hear  both  sides, 
— can  follow  the  thread  of  a  metaphysical  dis- 
without  going  astray,  or  acting  rashly  upon 
mere  speculative  deuiofiatntlion.    Jt  i 
aid  oi'  Vobjurtf  that  *  i)  n'&voit  pas  les  rein* 
atsez  fort,  pour  porter  ^  tcrmc  line  idee  metaphy- 
."     Philoftopbic  vWia  are  not  sub- 

ject here  to  such  untimely  birth* ;  the  fruit  may 
beoadj  bui  it  u  nol  Ioj  wsuu  o\  n  iiuriiy.     The 

the  contrary,  in  too  great  i 
to  produ       bi  ur  own  dbcoverica.  ox  prone  to 

ions  of  other*,  ip  ordei 
to  tr  mil  m  into  own. 

Jtousseaa,  Diderot,  and  llclvctiu-  h art  all  6x4  g. 


r<*)w  n«>U  not  be  told,  (hit  "  tuiifa  fnWo  »e  arc  hui 

r»  upon  cniiMry  oocan'mi  ly  rljhtmnd  prober,  mi] 

pprored  of  as  micli  by  miry  U*li— a- 

ruM  be  wuirr  tbtutd  than  to  My  il  «Ai  tirtar 

Sudb  dcluivaiiim*  of  moml  sculimenu,  mid  ihcv  arc  lrojocol. 

■MBI  appMtf  more  minute  than  [iKemrr,  »r>.1  the  mw  tuprr- 

abuneUnc*  of  mrrflwmj  it  H  not  Icm  ohMftBblc  in 

eith  «4"  Nation*.     The  author  i*  quit*  ■*r»ru-  that  lit. 

may  be  nurtalicti,  nnr  f *ru-n.U  to  et  •  ayamt  eaab 

K-putoli.ina*  tl.itut'AdastMiitluyct  l»t  biOV'Vtthi 

be  uuwan;.  .xprrawd,  mm  Dot  w  rMi##Jy  errozteotu  ■ 
»»•■■•  Um  peoeed  io  be  in  icgwd  m  oaUvt.—Xo'e  r. 

■ 


[NEUJtGH — Dl'GAI 


507 


Locke.  "  (Cen  n'cst  pins  voisin  dc  l'ig- 
norancc  d'un  pnncipc  que  son  excessive  gene- 
raliiation."  # 

I  haw  already  quoted,  several  time*,  a  work 
the  celebrated    Professor   Dugahl  Stewart  ball 
lately  given  to  the  public  in  the  form  of  i'hilo- 
sopIuY.ii  EflaayBi     Without  pretending  to  gi^ 
full  account  of  it,  I  shall  onlj  say,  that  tlic  me- 
taphysics  of  Mr  Stewarl  art  those  of  con 
sense,  f    Second  in  skill  to  none  of  the  01  iCJ 
chemists  of  the  human  mind  his  country  has  pro- 
duced, he  docs  not  cany  the  analysis  of  the  men- 
tal substance  ihrther  tliim  its  refractory  as 
will  admit  -,  nor  does  he  build  up  system?  Di 
ported  by  experience.  By  this  tc.it,  also,  he  tries 
those  which  have  been  reared  already  an  | 
|kws  tlit-  i  iSacj  of  several  of  them.    Singularly 
happj    iu   Ins  quotations  and  illustrations,  this 
i  knowa  how  to  throw  on  a  subject  natural- 
ly dry  und  unattractive,  the  charnu  pecul 
works  of  imagination.  You  think  you  are  listen- 
ing to  the  wisdom  of  the  sage  Nestor,  to  his  co- 
pious, Mowing,  and  persuasive eloquence,  calming 
the  violence  uf  his  companions,  unci  b 


•  Dc  (irrtiido,  quoted  Uy  rVttftwol  Dug*!(l  Sttiwwt. 

■f  I  «ut  mi>  Ibtf  •!"'    PMNH    ■  '  i   "I  mankind  h.v 
looksd  upon  a*  irnAnymout  to  the  i  jnrmnn  f**j*A 
kiod; — I  mraii  bVTS  only  thai  IWliq  which  b  lh«  unmeilwlc 

rfultofgttiflntltaryrimcemd  wawiuamsiV — the         d   - 
•f  paradox. 


KOIKBUROn — Ol'UALD  STEWAllT. 


tbf  II  their  wanderings  pud  tltcir  er- 

ror*. *'  When  I  study  the  intellectual  powers  of 
man,**  says  Mr  Stewart,  "  in  the  writings  of  Ilart- 
h\  of  Priestley,  of  Darwin,  m  »i  Tooke,  I  feci  as 
if  I  were  examining  Uw  sorry  mechanism  tliat 
^i\  001  to  a  puppet.     It,  (or  a  moment*  i 

am  carried  along,  by  their  theories  of  human 
knowledge,  and  of  human  life,  I  seem  to  myself 
to  be .  behind  the  curtain  of  what  I  once 

conceived  to  be  a  magnificent  theatre.  And 
while  I  survey  the  tinsel  frippery  of  the  ward- 
robe, ml  the  pdiiy  decorations  of  die  scenery, 
I  am  mortified  to  discover  the  trick  which  had 
cheated  my  eye  at  a  d>  This  surely  i*  not 

the  characteristic  oi'  truth  or  of  nature,  ihc  beau- 
our  closest  inspection,  den- 
re  from  those  microscopical  rc- 

M-hes,   which  <!  be  most  finished  pro- 

ductions of  an.  ii.  in  OUT  physical  enquiries 
concerning  the  material  world,  every  step  that 
las  red  has  at  once  exalted  t 

and  of  its  order, 
•  ji  ire  reasonably  Mippoae  thai  the  genuine  phi- 
losophy of  the  mind  is  to  disclose  to  ui  a  spveta- 

lc»  pic  less  elevating,  than  fancy  or 

■  ■ipatc?** 

D  OF  YOT.LME  F1RVT. 


J  by  Jtnm  ftailaniyne  A  O. 


i 


?-->■*..' 


i 


3   blOS  OlM   133   050 


DA 

625 

S6 

181 

v. 


Stanford  University  Libraries 
Stanford,  California 


Rrl  urm  Ihla  book  oo  or  b«for»  date  d«»-