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PRINCETON, N. J

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LIFE IN THE FOEESTS

THE FAR EAST.

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FROM T HE, LOWER TAMPASUK.

LIFE IN THE FORESTS

T H E

FAll

SPENSER ST. JOHN, F.R.G.S., F.E.S.,

FORMERLY II.M.’S CONSUL-GENERAL IN TIIE GREAT ISLAND OF BORNEO,

AND NOW

II.M.’S CHARGE D’AFFAIRES TO THE RErUBLIC OF I1AYTI.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:

SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNIIILL.

M.DCCC.LXII.

[The right of Translation is reserved.']

PREFACE.

I have explained in a short introduction the object
and plan of the present volumes, and have little more
to say, beyond a reference to the assistance I have
received, and the plates and maps which accompany
and illustrate them. In order to prevent mistakes,
and correct my own impressions, I submitted a series
of questions to four gentlemen who were intimately
acquainted with the Dayak tribes, and they gave me
most useful information in reply. To Mr. Charles
Johnson and the Rev. William Chalmers I am in-
debted for very copious and valuable notes on the
Sea and Land Dayaks ; and to the Rev. Walter
Chambers and the Rev. William Gomez for more
concise, yet still interesting accounts of the tribes
with whom they live.

To Mr. Hugh Low, the Colonial Treasurer of

Labuan, I am under special obligations, as he freely

placed at my disposal the journals he had kept during

our joint expeditions, as well as those relating to some

h 2

Vlll

PREFACE.

districts which I have not visited. It is to be re-
gretted that he has not himself prepared a work on
the North-West Coast, as no man possesses more
varied experience or a more intimate knowledge of
the people.

With regard to the plates contained in this work,
I am indebted to the courtesy of George Bentham,
Esq., the President of the Linnean Society, for per-
mission to engrave the figures of the Nepenthes from
the admirable ones published in Vol. XXII. of that
Society’s Transactions, and which being of the size
of life are the more valuable.

I have inserted, with Dr. Hooker’s permission, his
description of the Bornean Nepenthes ; and it will
always be a subject of regret that the British Govern-
ment did not carry out their original intention of
sending this able botanist to investigate the Flora of
Borneo, which is perhaps as extraordinary as any in
the world.

I have also to thank the Ilev. Charles Johnson, of
White Lackington, and Charles Benyon, Esq., for
the photographs which they placed at my disposal,
and which have enabled me to insert, among other
plates, the most life-like pictures of the Land and
Sea Dayaks I have ever seen. To the Society for the
Propagation of the Gospel I am also indebted for
their generous offer to place all their drawings at my
disposal.

PREFACE.

I must likewise draw attention to the exquisite
manner in which the plates of the Nepenthes are
coloured, and to the beauty of the engravings in
general. They are admirably illustrative of the
country, and do very great credit to the lithographers,
Messrs. Day and Son, and to their excellent draughts-
men. I ought also to mention that the Nepenthes
are drawn less than half the natural size, as it was
found impracticable to introduce the full size without
many folds, which would have speedily destroyed the
beauty of the plates.

I will add a few words respecting the maps. The
one of the districts around Kina Balu was constructed
from the observations made during our two expedi-
tions to that mountain. The map of the Limbang
and Baram rivers is the result of many observations,
and with regard to the position of the main moun-
tains, I think substantially correct, as they were
fixed with the aid of the best instruments. The
third map is inserted in order to give a general idea
of the North-West Coast, though the run of the
rivers is often laid down by conjecture.

CONTEN T S.

PAGE

INTRODUCTION 1

Chapter I.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

Habitat of the Sea Dayaks — Start for the Lundu — Inland Pas-
sages— Fat Venison — The Lundu — Long Village House —
Chinese Gardens — Picturesque Waterfall — The Lundu
Dayaks — Their Village — Gradual Extinction of the Tribe
— A Squall — Child-birth — Girl Bitten by a Snake — Mr.
Gomez — His Tact — A Boa Seizes my Dog — Stories of Boa
Constrictors — One Caught in a Cage — Invasion of a Dining-
room— Capture of a large Boa — Boa and Wild Boar —
Native Accounts — Madman and Snake — Boas used as Rat
Catchers — Floating Islands — A Man found on one — Their
Origin — The Batang Lupar — The Lingga — Alligators
Dangerous — Method of Catching them — Their Size — Hair
Balls — Death of an Acquaintance — The Balau Lads — The
Orang-Utan — A large one killed — Banks of the River —
The Fort at Sakarang — The late Mr. Brereton — Sakarang
Head-hunting — Dayak Stratagem — Peace Ceremonies —
Sacred Jars — Farmhouse — Love of Imitation — Illustrated
London News — Women — Men — Poisoning — Workers in
Gold and Brass — Anecdote — Rambi Fruit — Pigs Swimming
— The Bore — Hunting Dogs — Wild Boar — Respect for
Domestic Pig — Two Kinds of Deer — Snaring — Land and
Sea Breezes — The Rejang — Lofty Millanau House — Human
Sacrifices — Swings — Innumerable Mayflies — Kanowit

Xll

CONTENTS.

Village — Kayan Mode of Attack — Kanowit Dayaks — Men
with Tails — Extraordinary Effect of Bathing in the Nile
• — Treachery — Bier — Customs on the Death of a Relative
— Curious Dance — Ceremonies on solemnizing Peace —
Wild Tribes — Deadly Effect of the Upas. ... 5

Chapter II.

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

Ceremonies at the Birth of a Child — Infanticide — Desire for
Children — A Talkative and Sociable People — Great Concord
in Families — Method of Settling Disputes — Marriage
Ceremonies — Pride of Birth — Chastity — Punishment of
Indiscreet Lovers— Bundling and Company-keeping — Love
Anecdotes — Separations — Division of Household Duties
— Flirting — Divorce — Burials — Religion — Belief in a
Supreme Being — Good and Evil Spirits — The Small-pox
— Priests — Some dress as Women — Mourning — Sacrifices
— Human Sacrifices — Unlucky Omens — Reconciliation —
Belief in a Future State — The other World — Dayaks
Litigious — Head-feast — Head-hunting — Its Origin —
Horrible Revenge — Small Inland Expeditions — Cat-like
Warfare — Atrocious Case — Large Inland Expeditions —
War-boats — Edible Clay — Necessity for a Head — Dayaks
very Intelligent — Slaves — Objections to Eating certain
Animals, or Killing others — Change of Names — Degrees
of Affinity within which Marriages may take place —
Sickness • — Cholera — Manufactures — Agriculture — Method
of taking Bees’ Nests — Lying Heaps — Passports — Ordeals
— Language. . . . . . . . . .47

Chapter III.

THE KAYANS OF B A Ii A M.

Unaccountable Panic — Man Overboard — Fishing — Coast
Scenery — Baram Point — Floating Drift — Pretty Coast to
Labuan — Thunder and Lightning Bay — Bar of the Brunei
— River Scenery — The Capital — Little Children in Canoes
— Floating Market — Kayan Attack — The Present Sultan’s

CONTENTS.

Xlll

Story — Fire-arms — Devastation of the Interior — Customs
of the Kayans — Upas Tree- — View of the Capital — The
Fountains — The Baram — Kayan Stratagem — Wild Cattle —
Banks of the River — Gading Hill — Ivory — Elephants on
North-east Coast — Hunting — Startling Appearance — Town
of Langusin — Salutes — First Interview — Graves — Wander-
ing Kanowits — Appearance of the Kayans — Visit Singaud-
ing — Religion — Houses — Huge Slabs — Skulls — W omen
tattooed — Mats — Visit the Chiefs — Drinking Chorus — Ex-
tempore Song — Head-hunting — Effect of Spirits — Sacrifice
— Ceremony of Brotherhood — Effect of Newly-cleared
Jungle — War Dance — Firewood — Customs — Origin of
Baram Kayans — Vocabularies — Trade — Birds’ Nests —
Destruction of Wealth — Manners and Customs — Iron —

Visit Edible Birds’ Nest Caves — The Caves — Narrow
Escape — Two Kinds of Swallows — Neat House — Visit of
Singauding — Visit to Si Obong — Her Dress — Hip-lace —
bier Employments — Farewell Visit — Fireworks — Smelting
Iron — Accident — Departure — Kayans Cannibals — Anec-
dotes— Foimier Method of Trading — Unwelcome Visitors . 79

Chapter IV.

THE LAND DAYAKS.

Visit to the Left-hand Branch of the Sarawak River — Attack
of Peguans — Sarawak River — Capture of English Ship
— The Durian Fruit — Iron-wood Posts — Rapids — Rapid of
the Corpse — Mountains — Village of San Pro — Lovely
Scenery — Head-house — Cave — Upper Cave — Unfortunate
Boast — Pushing up the Rapids — Story of the Datu Ta-
inanggong — Invulnerable Men — How to become one —
Grung Landing-place — Sibungoh Dayaks — Dayak Canoes
— Lovely Scenery — Uses of the Bambu — Fish — Sharks in
the Upper Waters — Repartee — Pigs Swimming — Farm-
houses in Trees — Floods — Suspension Bridges — Chinese
Traders — Dress of Land Dayaks — System of Forced Trade
— Interesting Tribe — Story of the Murder of Pa Mua —

The Trial — Painfirl Scene — Delightful Bathing — Passing
the Rapids — Walk to Grung — Dayak Paths — Village of
Grung — Warm Reception — Ceremonies — Lingua Franca
— Peculiar Medicine — Prayer — Sacred Dance — Sprinkling
Blood — Effect of former System of Government — Language 125

XIV

CONTENTS.

Chapter V.

LAND DAYAKS OF SIRAMBAU.— THEIR SOCIAL LIFE.

PAGE

Madame Pfeiffer — Chinese Village — Chinese Maidens — Siram-
bau — Ascent of the Mountain — Difficult Climbing — Forests
of Fruit Trees — Scenery — Sirambau Village — Houses —

The “Look-out” — Scenery — Head-houses — Orang Kaya
Mita — His modest Request — Sir James Brooke’s Cottage —
Natural Bath-house — Chinese Gold Workings — Tapang
Trees — Social Life of the Land Dayaks — Ceremonies at
a Birth — Courtship — Betrothment — Marriage — Burial —
Graves — The Sexton — Funeral Feast — Children — Female
Chastity — Divorces — Cause of Separations — Anecdote . 152

Chapter VI.

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAY AKS — Continued.

Love — Journeys of the Soul — Warnings in Sleep — Magic
Stones — Anecdote — Ordeals — Omens — Birds of Omen —
Method of Consulting them — Beneficial Effects of the Head
Feasts — Languages of the Land Dayaks — Deer — The
Sibuyaus free from Prejudice — Story of the Cobra de
Capella — Names — Change of Name — Prohibited Degrees of
Affinity — Heights — Medical Knowledge — Priests and
Priestesses — Origin of the latter — Their Practices — Manu-
factures— Agriculture — Story of the Origin of Rice — The
Pleiades. . . . . . • • • . 1G8

CONTENTS.

Chapter VII.

THE SAMAR All AN RIVER AND THE CAVES OF
SIRIH.

PAGE

A Storm — The Musquito Passage — The Samarahan — Rich
Soil — The Malays — The Payaks — The Malay Chief — The
Sibuyau Village — A Pretty Girl — Dragons’ Heads — Climb-
ing Pole — Drinking — “ The Sibuyaus get no Headaches ”

— Force repelled by Force — Gardens — Left-hand Branch
— Difficult Path — Hill of Munggu Babi — Former Insecu-
rity— The Village — Welcome — Deer Plentiful — Walk to
the Sirih Caves — A Skeleton — Illustrative Story — Method
of Governing — Torches — Enter the Recesses of the Cave —
Small Chambers — Unpleasant Walking — Confined Passage
— The Birds’ Nests’ Chamber — Method of Gathering them
— Curious Scene — The Cloudy Cave — Wine of the Tampui
Fruit — Blandishments — Drinking — Dancing — Bukars
Hairy — Scenery — Walk — “The Sibuyaus do get Head-
aches”— Lanchang — -Rival Chiefs — Ancient Disputes —

Deer Shooting — Wanton Destruction of Fruit Trees —
Choice of an Orang Kaya — Return to Boat — The Right-
hand Branch — The San Poles — Hot Spring — Tradition —
Hindu Relics — The Female Principle — The Stone Bull —
Superstition — Story ....... 205

Chapter VIII.

THE MOUNTAIN OF KINA BALU.

FIRST EXPEDITION.

XVI

CONTENTS.

Killing the Fitted Calf — Beautiful Prospect — A new Gar-
dinia — Pony Travelling — Difficulty of procuring Useful
Men — Start — An Extensive Prospect — Cocoa-nuts and
their Milk — A View of Kina Balu — Granite Debris — Our
Guides — Natives Ploughing — Our Hut — Division of Land
— Ginambur — Neatest Village-house in the Country — Its
Inhabitants — Tatooing — Curiosity — Blistered Feet — Ba-
tong — Granite Boulders — F ording — Fish-traps — Tam-
batuan — Robbing a Hive — Search for the Youth-restoring
Tree — Our Motives — Appearance of the Summit of Kina
Balu — A long Story — Swimming the River — Ivoung —
Palms not plentiful — Lanun Cloth — Cotton — Nominal Wars
— The Kiladi — Attempt to Levy Black-mail at the Village
of Labang Labang — Resistance — Reasons for demanding
it — Bamboo flat-roofed Huts — Ingenious Contrivance —

Kiau — Dirty Tribe — Recognition of Voice — A Quarrel —
Breaking the Barometer — Opposition to the Ascent of
Kina Balu — Harmless Demonstration — Thieves — Mr. Low
unable to Walk — Continue the Expedition alone — Cascade
— Prayers to the Spirit of the Mountain — Flowers and
Plants — Beautiful Rhododendrons — Cave — Unskilful Use
of the Blow-pipe — Cold — Ascent to the Summit — Granite
Face — Low’s Gully — Noble Terrace — Southern Peak —
Effect of the Air — The Craggy Summit — Distant Moun-
tain — Dangerous Slopes — Ghostly Inhabitants — Mist —
Superstitions — Collecting Plants — Descent — Noble Land-
scape— Difficult Path — Exhaustion — Mr. Low not Re-
covered— Disagreeable Villagers — Recovering the Brass
Wire — Clothing — Distrust — A lively Scene — Our Men
behave well — Return on Rafts to the Datu’s House . . 230

Chapter IX.

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

Cholera in Brunei — Start from Labuan — Coal Seams — View
of Tanjong Kubong — Method of working the Coal — Red
Land — Method of cultivating Pepper — Wild Cattle — The
Pinnace — Kimanis Bay — Inland Passage — Kimanis River
— Cassia — Trade in it stopped — Smooth River — My first
View of Kina Balu — Story of the Death of Pangeran Usup
— Anchor — Papar — A Squall — Reach Gaya Bay — Noble
Harbour — Pangeran Madoud — My first Visits to him —

CONTENTS.

XVII

Method of making Salt — Village of Menggatal — Ida’an
— His Fear of them — Roman Catholic Mission — Cholera —
Mengkabong — Manilla Captives — The Salt-water Lake —
Head-quarters of the Bajus — Their Enterprise — Find
Stranded Vessels — Tripod Masts — Balignini Pirates —

Their Haunts — Spanish Attack— Great Slaughter — Savage-
looking Men — Great Tree — Unreasoning Retaliation —
Energy of M. Cuarteron — Lawlessness of the Bajus —
Pangeran Duroup, the Governor — Anecdote of a drifting
Canoe — Inhospitable Custom — Origin of the Bajus — Wel-
come by Pangeran Sirail — Love of Whiskey overcomes
Prejudice — Night Weeping — A Market — The Datu of
Tamparuli — The Pangeran’s Entlrasiasm — Path to the
Tawaran — Fine Scene — Fruit Groves — Neat Gardens — -
The Tawaran — Sacred Jars — The Talking Jar — Attempted
Explanation — Efficacy of the Water — Carletti’s Account —
Fabulous Value — The Loveliest Girl in Borneo — No Rice
— Advance to Bawang — Our Guides — Steep Hill — Ex-
tensive View — Si Nilau — Unceremonious Entry into a
House — The Nilau Tribe — Ivalawat Village — Tiring Walk

— Desertion of a Negro — Numerous Villages — Bungol
Village Large — Deceived by the Guide — Fatiguing Walk

— Koung Village — Black Mail — Explanation — Friendly
Relations established — Labang Labang Village — Change of
Treatment — Kiau Village — Warm Reception — Houses — No
Rice — Confidence ........ 280

Chapter X.

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU — Continued.

Return of the Men for Rice — Readiness to assist us — New
Kinds of Pitcher Plants — The Valley of Pinokok — Beautiful
Nepenthes — Kina Taki — Description of the Nepenthes
Rajah — Rocks Coated with Iron — Steep Strata — The
Magnolia — Magnificent Sunset Scene — Fine Soil — Talk
about the Lake — Change of Fashions — Effect of Example
— Rapid Tailoring — Language the same among Ida’an,
Dusun, and Bisaya — Reports — Start for Marei Parei —
The Fop Kama — Prepare Night Lodgings — Fragrant Bed
— Stunted Vegetation — Appearance of Precipices — Dr.
Hooker — Botanical Descriptions — Nepenthes Rajah — ■
Manner of Growing — Great Size — Used as a Bucket —

xvm

CONTENTS.

Drowned Rat — Nepenthes Edwardsiana — An Account of
it — Beautiful Plants — Botanical Description of Nepenthes
Edwardsiana — Extensive Prospects — Peaked Hill of Sadulc
Saduk — Noble Buttress — Situation for Barracks — Nourish-
ing Food — Deep Valleys — Familiar Intercourse with the
Villagers — Turning the Laugh — Dirty Faces — Looking-
glasses — Their Effect — Return of our Followers — Start for
the Mountain — Rough Cultivation — The Mountain Rat used
as Food — Our Old Guides — Difficult Walking — Scarlet
Rhododendron — Encamp — Double Sunset — Nepenthes
Low'd — Botanical Description — Nepenthes Villosa — Bo-
tanical Description — Extensive View of the Interior of
Borneo — The Lake — The Cave — Ascend to the Summit —

Its Extent and Peculiarities — Distant Views — North-
western Peak — Severe Storm — Injured Barometer —
Useless Thermometers — Dangerous Descent — Accidents —
Quartz in Crevices — Clean and Pleasant Girls — Friendly
Parting — Ida’an Sacrifices — Return by Koung — Kalawat
and Nilu — Death of Sahat — A Thief — Cholera — Incanta-
tions and Method of Treatment — Arrival at Gantisan —

Fine Wharf — The Pangeran — Bad Weather — Heavy Squall
— Little Rice to be had — Sail — Anchor at Gaya Island —
Curious Stones — Fish — Description of a magnificent Kind
— Poisonous Fins — Set Sail — Awkward Position — Water-
spout— Admiralty Charts — Names require Correcting —
Serious Mistake — Among the Shoals — Fearful Squall —
Falling Stars and Brilliant Meteor — Arrival at Labuan . 314

Chapter XI.

THE PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE
DISTRICTS LYING BETWEEN GAYA BAY AND THE
TAMPASUlv RIVER ; WITH A GEOGRAPHICAL
SKETCH OF MALUDU BAY AND THE NORTH-EAST
COAST OF BORNEO.

CONTENTS.

XIX

Kabatuan — The Mengkabong — The Tawaran — The Abai
— The Tampasuk — Its Interior — Political Geography —
Inhabitants — The Lanuns — The Bajus — Mahomedans —
Appearance — Their Women — Their Houses — Love of
Cockfighting — Fine Breed of Fowls — Other Inhabitants —

The Ida’an — Their Houses — Their Women — Tattooing —
Comfortable House — Method of Government — No Wars — •
Aborigines Honest — Exceptions — Agriculture — Ploughing
— Remnant of Chinese Civilization — Tobacco — Cotton —
Good Soil — Amount of Population — Numerous and Exten-
sive Villages — The Tampasuk — The Tawaran — Mengka-
bong — Other Districts — Enumeration — Manufactures —
Lanun Cloths — Trade — Difficult Travelling — Languages
—Geology — Sandstone — Greenstone — Climate of Kina
Balu temperate — Map — Addition — Maludu Bay— Western
Point — Western Shore — Mountains — Head of Bay — Popu-
lation — Accounts compared — Bengkoka — Minerals —
Eastern Point — Banguey — Difficult Navigation — Small
Rivers and Bays — Paitan — Sugut- — Low Coast — Labuk
Bay — High Land — Benggaya — Labuk — Sandakan — Story
of the Atas Man — Kina Batangan — Cape Unsang — Tungku
— Population — The Ida’an — The Mahomedans . . .356

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

I. Ivina Bain from the Lower Tampasuk

II. The Sea Dayaks ....

III. City of Brunei. Sunset .

IV. The Land Dayaks ....

V. View from near the Rajah’s Cottage .

VI. Nepenthes Rajah ....

VII. Kina Balu from the Pinokok Valley .

VIII. Nepenthes Edwardsiana .

IX. Nepenthes Lowii ....

X. Nepenthes Villosa ....

Frontispiece
To face page 5

125

15G

317

318
327

336

337

MAPS.

I. Map of North-West Coast of Borneo . To face page 1
II. Map of Districts near Kina Balu . . ,, 230

E R R A T A.

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LIFE IN THE

FORESTS OF THE FAR EAST.

INTRODUCTION.

Tiie wild tribes of Borneo, and the not less wild
interior of the country, arc scarcely known to Euro-
pean readers, as no one who has travelled in the
Island during the last fourteen years has given his
impressions to the public.

My official position afforded me many facilities for
gratifying my fondness for exploring new countries,
and traversing more of the north of Borneo than
any previous traveller, besides enabling me to gain
more intimate and varied experience of the inha-
bitants.

In the following pages I have treated of the tribes
in groups, and have endeavoured to give an individual
interest to each ; while, to preserve the freshness of
my first impressions, I have copied my journal written
at the time, only correcting such errors as arc in-
separable from first observations, and comparing them
with the result of subsequent experience.

VOL. i.

INTRODUCTION.

Preserving the natural order of travel, I commence
with an account of my expeditions among the tribes
living in the neighbourhood of Sarawak ; then follow
narratives of two ascents of the great mountain of
Kina Balu, the loftiest mountain of insular Asia,
of which I have given a full account, as it is a part of
Borneo but little known, and rendered still more
curious by the traces we find of former Chinese inter-
course with this part of the island ; my personal
narrative being concluded by the journal of a distant
expedition I made to explore the interior of the
country lying to the south and south-east of Brunei,
the capital of Borneo Proper.

The starting-point of the first journeys was Kuch-
ing, the capital of Sarawak, where I was stationed in
the acting appointment of II. M.’s Commissioner in
Borneo. I lived so many years among the Davaks,
that the information I give of their mode of life may
he relied on ; and I have received so much assistance
from others better acquainted with individual tribes,
that I can place before the public, with great confi-
dence in the correctness of detail, the chapters on
the Manners and Customs of these people. I per-
suade myself that the more the natives of Borneo
arc studied, the more livelv will he the interest felt
in them. The energy displayed by the Sea Dayaks,
gives much hope of their advancement in civilization
at a future time ; and a few years of quiet and steady
government would produce a great change in their
condition. The Land Dayaks scarcely display the
same aptitude for improvement, but patience may do
much with them also ; their modes of thought, their
customs, and the traces of Hinduism in their rcli-

INTRODUCTION.

gion, render them a very singular and interesting
people.

Of the Kayans we know less ; and I have only
been able to give an account of one journey I made
among them, very slightly corrected by subsequent
experience. They are a strange, warlike race, who
are destined greatly to influence the surrounding
tribes. They have already penetrated to within
thirty miles of Brunei, the capital, spreading deso-
lation in their path.

For ten years, every time I had entered the bay
near the Brunei river, I had speculated on what
kind of country and people lay beyond the distant
ranges of mountains that, on a clear day, appeared to
extend, one behind the other, as far as the eve could
reach. I constantly made inquiries, but never could
find even a Malay who had gone more than a few
days’ journey up the Limbang, the largest river which
falls into the bay. In 1850, I took up my permanent
residence in Brunei as Consul-General, and, after
many minor attempts, I was at last enabled to
organize an expedition to penetrate into the inte-
rior, and, hoping it might prove interesting, every
evening, with but two exceptions, I wrote in my
journal an account of the day’s proceedings. I have
printed it, as far as possible, in the same words in
which it was originally composed. As this country
was never before visited by Malay or European, I
hope there will be found in my narrative some fresh
and interesting' matter.

The Malays being a people about whom much has
been written, I have refrained from dwelling on their
characteristics.

1—2

INTRODUCTION.

I conclude with a sketch of the present condition
of Brunei and Sarawak, of the Chinese settlers, and
of the two missions which have been sent to Borneo,
one Roman Catholic, the other Protestant.

It was with much regret that I gave up the idea
of penetrating to the opposite side of Borneo, start-
ing from the capital, and crossing the island to Kotci
or Baluhg-an, on the eastern coast ; but the expense
would have been too great : otherwise, with my pre-
vious experience of Borneo travelling, I should have
had no hesitation in attempting the expedition.

Having thus briefly indicated the plan of the work,
I will commence with an account of my journeys
among the Sea Dayaks.

Published "by Snuth.Blder S- C’

CHAPTER I.

THE SEA DA YAKS.

Habitat of the Sea Dayaks — Start for the Lundu — Inland Passages
— Fat Venison — The Lundu — Long Village House — Chinese
Gardens — Picturesque Waterfall — The Lundu Dayaks — Their
Village — Gradual Extinction of the Tribe — A Squall — Child-
birth— Girl Bitten by a Snake — Mr. Gomez — His Tact — A
Boa Seizes my Dog — Stories of Boa Constrictors — One Caught
in a Cage — Invasion of a Dining-room — Capture of a large
Boa — Boa and Wild Boar — Native Accounts — Madman and
Snake — Boas used as Bat Catchers — Floating Islands — A Man
Found on one — Their Origin — The Batang Lupar — The Ling-
ga — Alligators Dangerous — Method of Catching them — Their
Size — Hair Balls — Death of an Acquaintance — The Balau Lads
— The Orang-Utan — A large one killed — Banks of the Eiver
— The Fort at Sakarang — The late Mr. Brereton — Sakarang
Head-hunting — Dayak Stratagem — Peace Ceremonies — Sacred
Jars — Farmhouse — Love of Imitation — Illustrated London
Neivs — Women — Men — Poisoning— Workers in Gold and
Brass — Anecdote — llambi Fruit — Pigs Swimming — The Bore
— Hunting Dogs — Wild Boar — Respect for Domestic Pig — Two
kinds of Deer — Snaring — Land and Sea Breezes — The Rejang
— Lofty Millanau House — Human Sacrifices — Swings — Innu-
merable Mayflies — Kanowit Village — Kayan Mode of Attack —
Kanowit Dayaks — Men with Tails — Extraordinary Effect of
Bathing in the Nile — Treachery — Bier— Customs on the Death
of a Relative — Curious Dance — Ceremonies on Solemnizing
Peace — Wild Tribes — Deadly Effect of the Upas.

The Sea Dayaks are so called from their familiarity
with the sea, though many live as far inland as any
of the other aborigines. They inhabit the districts
lying to the eastward of Sadong, and extend along

THE SEA DAYAKS.

the coast to the great river of Pejang. They are the
most numerous and warlike of the Dayaks ; and
the most powerful of their sections formerly indulged
in the exciting pastime of piracy and head-hunting.
The next river to the cast of Sadong is the Sibuyau,
whose inhabitants were scattered and had fled to the
districts around Sarawak.

The first village of these Sibuyaus, to whom wre
paid a long visit, was situated on the Lundu, the
most westerly river in the Sarawak territories.

We started in March ; and the north-east mon-
soon still blowing occasionally, made it necessary
to watch our time for venturing to sea, as the
waves would soon have swamped our long native
prahu.

From the Santubong entrance of the Sarawak Fiver
to the Lundu, there arc passages which run behind the
jungle that skirts the sea-shore, enabling canoes to
hold communication between those places thirty miles
apart without venturing to sea ; but our boat being
fifty feet long wTas unable to pass at one place, so during
a lull in the weather wtc pushed out, calling at the
little island of Sampadien, where Mr. Crookshank
was preparing the ground for a cocoanut plantation,
lie brought us down a fine haunch of venison, covered
with a layer of fat, a very rare thing in Borneo,
where the deer generally are destitute of that sign
of good condition. lie had employed himself the
first few days in clearing the island of game, .and his
dogs had on the previous evening been fortunate
enough to bring this fine animal to bav, when he
speared it with his own hands.

Pushing olf quickly, as the sea breeze was blowing

THE LUNDU — LONG VILLAGE HOUSE.

in strongly, we sailed and pulled away for the river
of Sampadien, and after a narrow escape from not
hitting the right channel, found ourselves clear of
the breakers and safe in still water. An inland
passage then took us to the Lundu.

The banks of this river are very flat and the plains
extend for a considerable distance, hut the scene is
redeemed from tameness by the mountains of Gading
and Toe. There is a flourishing appearance about
the place ; all were engaged in some occupation. We
were received by Kalong, the Orang Kaya’s eldest
son, the chief himself being absent collecting the
fruit of the mangkawan, from which a good vegetable
oil is extracted : the natives use it for candles and
for cookery, hut it is also exported in quantities to
Europe.

The landing-place is very picturesque, being over-
shadowed by a grove of magnificent palms, under
which were drawn up the war-boats of the tribe.
A passage raised on posts three feet above the ground,
led to the great village-house, which extended far on
either side, and was then hidden among the fruit-
trees. It was the longest I had seen, measuring
534 feet, and contained nearly five hundred people.
There are various lesser houses about of Malays and
Dayaks, forming a population of about a thousand.
The Orang Ivaya lived in the largest house, which
was certainly a remarkably fine one : the broad
verandah, or common room, stretched uninterruptedly
the whole length, and afforded ample space for the
occupations of the tribe. Tbe divisions appropriated
to each family were comparatively large, and all had
an air of comfort ; while in front of the house were

TI1E SEA DAYAKS.

bamboo platforms, on which the rice is dried and
beaten out.

No village in Sarawak is blessed with greater
prosperity than this. The old Orang Kaya, being of
a most determined character, has reversed the usual
order of things ; and the Malays, instead of being
the governors, are the governed. Having for years
been little exposed to exactions, they are flourishing
and exhibit an air of great contentment.

They made us comfortable in the long public room,
and placed benches around a table for our accommo-
dation. I confess to prefer the clean matted floor.
After the first burst of curiosity was over, the people
went on with their usual avocations, and did not make
themselves uncomfortable about us.

Wc walked in the evening among the Chinese gar-
dens extending over about a hundred acres of ground,
and neatly planted with various kinds of vegetables,
among which beans and sweet potatoes appeared most
numerous. There were here about two hundred
Chinese, most of them but lately arrived, so that
the cultivated ground was continually increasing. A
large market was found for their sweet potatoes among
the sago growers and workers of the rivers to the
north.

Next day we started for a waterfall, which we were
told was to be found on the sides of the Gading
mountain, a few miles below the village. After leav-
ing our boat, the path lay through a jungle of fruit-
trees ; but as we ascended the spur of the mountain
these ceased. In about an hour wc came to a very
deep ravine, where the thundering noise of falling
water gave notice of the presence of a cataract. This

TIIE LUNDU DAYAKS.

is by far the finest I have yet seen : the stream,
tumbling down the sides of the mountain, forms a
succession of noble falls : the first we saw dashed
in broken masses over the rocks above, and then
descended like a huge pillar of foam into a deep,
gloomy basin, while on either side of it rose smooth
rocks, crowned with lofty trees, and dense underwood,
that threw their dark shadows into the pool.

A slight detour brought us to a spot above the
cascade, and then we could perceive that it was but
the first of a succession. One view, where six
hundred feet of fall was at once visible, is extremely
fine : the water now gliding- over the smoothest
granite rock, then broken into foam by numerous
obstructions, then tumbling in masses into deep
basins, — the deafening roar, the noble trees rising
amid the surrounding crags, the deep verdure, the
brightness of the tropical sun, reflected from burning
polished surfaces, then deep shade and cooling air.
This varied scene was indeed worth a visit. We
ascended to the top of the mountain, though warned
of the danger we incurred from a ferocious dragon
which guarded the summit.

The Sibuyaus arc only interlopers in the Lundu,
as there is a tribe, the original inhabitants of the
country, who still live here. One day we visited
them.

After pulling a few miles up the river we reached
a landing place, where the chief of the true Lundus was
waiting to guide us to his village. For six or seven
miles our path lay through the jungle over undulating
ground, and we found the houses situated at the com-
mencement of a great valley lying between the moun-

TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

tains of Poe and Gading. The soil is here excellent,
hut now little of it is tilled, though there arc
thousands of acres around that might support an
immense population. Most of it, however, had, in
former times, been cleared, as we saw hut very little
old forest.

The Lundu houses, on the top of a low hill, are
but few in number, neat and new. The tribe, how-
ever, has fallen ; they fear there is a curse on them. A
thousand families, they say, once cultivated this
valley, but now they arc reduced to ten, not by the
ravages of war, but by diseases sent by the spirits.
They complain bitterly that they have no families, that
their women are not fertile ; indeed, there were but
three or four children in the whole place. The men
were fine-looking, and the women well favoured and
healthy — remarkably clean and free from disease.
We could only account for their decreasing numbers
by their constant intermarriages : we advised them to
seek husbands and wives among the neighbouring
tribes, but this is difficult. Their village is a well-
drained, airy spot.

On our return, one of those sudden squalls came on
that are so frequent in Borneo : we were among the
decayed trees that still stood on the site of an old
farm. As a heavier gust swept from the hills, the
half-rotten timber tottered and fell with a crash
around us, rendering our walk extremely dangerous.
I was not sorry, therefore, to find myself in the boat
on the broad river. The banks are tolerably well
cleared by Chinese, Malays, Millanaus, and Dayaks.
A few months after this, a sudden squall struck the
British brig “Amelia,” and capsized her : ninety-three

MR. GOMEZ : IIIS TACT.

went down with her, but twenty escaped in the jolly-
boat.

In the evening Kalong’s wife was taken in the
pains of child-birth. The Rev. F. Dougall, now
Bishop of Labuan, offered his medical assistance,
as it was evident the case was a serious one, but they
preferred following their own customs. The child
died, and we left the mother very ill.

A young girl, bitten by a snake, was brought in ;
the wound was rubbed with apiece of deer’s horn, she
became drowsy and slept for several hours, but in the
morning she was about her usual occupations.

A year after this visit, the Rev. W. Gomez was
established there, to endeavour to convert the
Sibuyau Dayaks. At first, he did not press religious
instruction upon them, but opened a school. I
mention this circumstance on account of the very
remarkable tact he must have exercised to induce the
children to attend as they did. His system of punish-
ment was admirable, but difficult to be followed with
English boys, tie merely refused to hear the offend-
ing child’s lesson, and told him to go home. A
friend, who often watched the progress of the school,
has told me that instead of going home the little
fellows would sob and cry and remain in a quiet
part of the school till they thought Mr. Gomez
had relented. They would rarely return to their
parents, if it could be avoided, before their lessons
were said.

On our journey along the coast, while walking at
the edge of the jungle, a favourite dog of mine was
seized by a boa-constrictor, perhaps twelve feet in
length. Fortunately, Captain Brooke was near, and

THE SEA DAYAKS.

sent a charge of shot into the reptile, which then let
go its hold and made off. The dog had a wound on
the side of his neck.

The natives tell many stories of these monstrous
snakes; hut rejecting the testimony of those wdio say
they have seen them so large as to mistake them for
trees, I will mention three cases where the animals
were measured. A hoa one night got into a closely-
latticed place under a Dayak house, and finding it
could not drag away a pig which it had killed there,
on account of the wooden bars, swallowed the beast
on the spot. In the morning the owner was astonished
to find the new occupant of the sty ; but as the reptile
was gorged, he had no difficulty in destroying it.
Its body was brought to Sarawak and measured by
Mr. Iluppell, when it wras found to be nineteen feet
in length.

The next was killed in Labuan, and without head
and a large portion of its neck, it measured above
twenty feet. I heard the story told how the reptile
was secured. One day, a dog belonging to Mr. Coul-
son disappeared, and a servant averred that it was
taken by an enormous snake. The following week,
as the same servant was laying the cloth for dinner,
he saw, to his horror, a huge snake dart at a dog,
that was quietly dozing in the verandah, and carry
it off. The master, alarmed at the cries of his
follower, rushed out, and, on hearing the cause, gave
chase, spear in hand, followed by all his household.
They tracked the reptile to his lair, and found the
dead dog opposite a hole in a hollow tree ; placing a
man with a drawn sword to watch there, Mr. Coulson
thrust a spear into an upper hole, and struck the

CAPTURE OF A LARGE BOA.

boa, which, feeling the wound, put its head out of
the entrance, and instantly lost it by a blow from the
Malay. I believe that when it was drawn from its
hiding-place it measured about twenty-four feet ; the
before-mentioned length was taken by me from the
mutilated skin.

Mr. Coulson was also fortunate enough to secure
the largest boa that has ever been obtained by a
European in the north-west part of Borneo.

In March, 1859, a Malay, his wife, and child,
accompanied by a little dog, were walking from the
Eastern Archipelago Company’s house, at the entrance
of the Brunei towards the sea-beach. The path was
narrow ; the little dog trotted on first, followed by
the others in Indian file. Just as they reached the
shore, a boa darted on the dog and dragged him into
the bushes. The Malays fled back to the house,
where they found Mr. Coulson, who, on hearing of
the great size of the serpent, determined to attempt
the capture of its skin. He loaded a Minie rifle,
and requested three English companions who hap-
pened to be there to accompany him with drawn
swords. He made them promise to follow his direc-
tions. His intention was to walk up to within a
fathom of the boa, and then shoot him through the
head ; if he were seized, then his companions were to
rush in with their swords, but not before, as he
wished to preserve the skin uninjured. They found
the reptile on the same spot where it had killed the
dog, that still lay partly encoiled : on the approach
of the party, it raised its head, and made slight angry
darts towards them, but still keeping hold of its prey.
Mr. Coulson coolly approached to within five feet of

THE SEA DAYAKS.

the animal, which kept raising’ and depressing its
head, and, seizing a favourable opportunity, fired ;
the hall passed through its brain and it lay dead at
his feet — a prize worthily gained. They raised the
boa up while still making strong muscular move-
ments, and carried it back to the house ; there they
measured it — it was twenty-six feet two inches.
Mr. Coulson immediately skinned it, and, shortly
after, brought it up to the consulate. When I
measured it, it had lost two inches, and was exactly
twenty-six feet in length.

These boas must have occasionally desperate
struggles with the wild pigs. I one day came upon
a spot where the ground -was torn up for a circle of
eight or nine feet, and the branches around were
broken. The boar, however, had evidently suc-
cumbed, as we could trace with ease the course it
had been dragged through the iunMe. We followed

OO o JO

a little distance, but evidently no one was very
anxious in pursuit. I knew the animal killed on this
occasion to he a boar, from finding his broken tusk
half-buried in the ground.

I may mention one or two incidents which I heard
from very trustworthy Malays. Abang Hassan was
working in the woods at the Santubong entrance of
the Sarawak river, when lie came upon a huge boa,
completely torpid ; it had swallowed one of the large
deer, whose horns, he said, could be distinctly traced
under the reptile’s skin. He cut it open and found
that the deer was still perfectly fresh. The boa
measured about nineteen feet.

Abang Buyong, a man whose word is trusted by
all the Europeans who know him, told us that one

MADMAN AND SNAKE.

day he was walking through the jungle with a drawn
sword, looking for rattans, when he was suddenly
seized by the leg ; he instinctively cut at the animal,
and fortunate for him that he was so quick, as he had
struck off the head of a huge boa before it had time
to wind its coils around him. He said he carefully
measured him, and it was seven Malay fathoms long —
that is, from thirty-five to thirty-seven feet. Dozens of
other stories rise to my memory, but they wrere told
me by men in whom I have not equal confidence.
The largest I have myself killed was fourteen feet.

I will mention an incident that took place in July,
1861, during the Sarawak expedition to the Muka
river. A Malay, subject to fits of delirium, sprang
up suddenly one day in a boat, drew a sword, killed
two and wounded several men ; he then dashed over-
board, and fled into the jungle. Ten days after, he
was found wandering' starving on the beach. He
appeared cpiite in his senses, and perfectly unaware
of the act he had committed. He said, one night
that threatened heavy rain, he crawled into a hollow
tree to sleep. lie was suddenly awakened by a choking
sensation in his throat. He instinctively put up both
his hands, and tore away what had seized him ; it
was a huge boa, which in the confined space could
not coil around him. The Malay quickly got out of
the serpent’s lair and fled, leaving his sword behind
him. When found, there were the marks of the fangs
on the sides of the torn wound, which was festering.
The last news I heard of the man was that lie was
expected to die.

Many persons arc very partial to small boas, as
wherever they take up their abode all rats disappear ;

THE SEA DAYAKS.

therefore they arc seldom disturbed when found in
granaries or the roofs of houses, though the reptile
has as great a partiality for eggs as for vermin. Our
servants killed one, and found fourteen eggs in its
stomach.

Passing, on our way to the great tribes of Sea
Dayaks, through Sarawak, we picked up our home
letters and newspapers, and transferred our baggage
to a larger prahu, very comfortably fitted up, with a
spacious cabin in the centre.

At Muaratabas we joined the Jolly Bachelor pin-
nace, sending our boat on in shore. Setting sail with
a fair breeze, we soon reached the entrance of the
Batang Lupar, which is marked by two conical hills,
— one the island of Trisauh, in the centre of the
river, the other on the right bank. During our
passage we observed some of those floating islands
which wander over the face of the sea, at the mercy
of wind and wave. I remember once that the signal-
man gave notice that a three-masted vessel was ahead.
We all fixed our telescopes on her, as at sea the
slightest incident awakens interest : her masts ap-
peared to rake in an extraordinary manner. As we
steamed towards her our mistake was soon discovered ;
it was a floating island, with unusually tall nipa palms
upon it, that were bending gracefully before the
breeze.

On one occasion a man was found at sea making one
of these his resting-place. Doubtless he abandoned
his island home cheerfully, though he fell into the
hands of enemies. lie told us that his pirate com-
panions, in hurried flight, had left him on the bank
of a hostile river, and so seeing a diminutive island

THE BATANG LUPAR.

floating to the sea, he swam off and got upon it, and
he had been there many days, living upon the fruit he
had found on the palm stems.

The origin of the islands is this : The stream occa-
sionally wears away the steep bank under the closely
united roots of the nipa, and some sudden flood,
pressing with unusual force on the loosened earth,
tears away a large portion of the shore, which floats
to the mouth of the river to be carried by the tides
and currents far out to sea. Some fifteen miles off
Baram Point, mariners tell of a great collection of
floating trees and sea-weed, that forms an almost
impassable barrier to ships in a light breeze. Some
action of the currents appears to cause this assem-
blage of floating timber always to keep near one spot,
and to move with a gyrating motion.

The Batang Lupar is in breadth from two to three
miles, and occasionally more : we never had a cast of
less than three fathoms on the bar, and inside it
deepens to six. The banks are low, composed entirely
of afluvial soil. Wind and tide soon carried us to
our first night’s resting-place at the mouth of the
Lingga river, some twenty miles from the embouchure
of the Batang Lupar. It is small, and its banks
have the usual flat appearance, relieved, however, by
some distant hills and the mountain of Lesong
mortar), from a fancied resemblance to that article
to be seen in every Malay house.

We found our boat here, together with a large
force from Sarawak. I had taken advantage of the
chance to accompany Captain Brooke on one of his
tours through the Sarawak territories. This was to
induce all the branches of the Sea Dayaks to make

VOL I.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

peace with each other, and with the towns of the
coast, some of which they had so long harried.

While business detains the force at the mouth of the
Lingga, I will describe Banting, the chief town of the
Balau Dayaks, about ten miles up that stream. There
are here about thirty long village houses, half at the
foot of a low hill, the others scattered on its face, com-
pletely embowered in fruit-trees. From the spot where
Mr. Chambers, the missionary, has built his house,
there is a lovely view, — more lovely to those who have
long been accustomed to jungle than to any others.
For here we have the Lingga river meandering among
what appear to be extensive green fields, reminding
me of our lovely meadows at home. We must not,
however, examine them too closely, or I fear they
will he found swamps of rushes and gigantic grass.
Still the land is not the less valuable, being admir-
ably adapted in its present state for the best rice
cultivation.

The Lingga river is famous for its alligators, which
are both large and fierce ; but, from superstitions
to which I shall afterwards refer, the natives seldom
destroy them. In Sarawak there is no such prejudice.
It is a well-known fact, that no alligator will take a
bait that is in any way fixed to the shore. The usual
mode of catching them is to fasten a dog, a cat, or a
monkey to a four or five fathom rattan, with an iron
hook or a short stick lightly fastened up the side of
the bait. The rattan is then beaten out into fibre
for a fathom, to prevent its being bitten through by
the animal when it has swallowed the tempting
morsel. Near a spot known to be frequented by
alligators, the bait, with this long appendage, is

METHOD OF CATCHING ALLIGATORS.

placed on a branch about six feet above high-water
mark. The cries of the bound animal soon attract
the reptile ; he springs out of the water and seizes it
in his ponderous jaws. The natives say he is cunning
enough to try if it be fastened to the bank ; but the
real fact appears to be that the alligator never eats its
food until it is rather high. So that when fastened,
finding he cannot take away bis prize to the place
where he usually conceals his food, lie naturally lets
it go. Gasing, a Dayak chief, saved bis life when
seized by an alligator, by laying hold of a post in the
water : the animal gave two or three tugs, but finding
its prey immovable, let go.

Two or three days after the bait has been taken,
the Malays seek for the end of the long rattan
fastened to it. When found, they give it a slight
pull, which breaks the threads that fasten the stick
up the side of the bait, and it spreads across the
alligator's stomach. They then haul it towards them.
It never appears to struggle, but permits its captors
to bind its legs over its back. Till this is done they
speak to it with the utmost respect, and address it in
a soothing voice ; but as soon as it is secured they
raise a yell of triumph, and take it in procession down
the river to the landing-place. It is then dragged
ashore amid many expressions of condolence at the
pain it must be suffering from the rough stones ; but
being safely ashore, their tone is jeering, as they
address it as Rajah, Datu, and grandfather. It then
receives its death at the hands of the public execu-
tioner. Its stomach is afterwards ripped open, to see
if it be a man-eater. I have often seen the buttons of
a woman’s jacket, or the tail of a Chinese, taken out.

2 2

TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

The alligator always appears to swallow its food whole.
Some men are very expert in catching these reptiles ;
I remember one Malay, who came over from the Dutch
possessions, capturing thirteen during a few months,
and as the Sarawak Government pay three shillings
and sixpence for every foot the heast measures, the
man made a large sum.

Alligators sometimes attain to a very large size.
I have never measured one above seventeen feet six
inches, but I saw a well-known animal, the terror
of the Siol branch of the Sarawak, that must have
been at least twenty-four or twenty-five feet long.
The natives say the alligator dies if wounded about
the body, as the river-worms get into the injured
part, and prevent its healing ; many have been found
dying on the banks from gunshot wounds. In the
rivers arc occasionally found curious balls of hair,
five or six inches in diameter, that are ejected from
these reptiles’ stomachs, — the indigestible remains of
animals captured.

I once lost an acquaintance in Sarawak who was
killed by an alligator. lie was seized round the chest
by the jaws of an enormous beast that swam with his
prey along the surface of the water. His children, who
had accompanied him to hathc, ran along the banks
of the river shouting to him to push out the animal’s
eyes ; they say he looked at them, but that he neither
moved nor spoke, paralyzed, as it were, by the grip.

I am very partial to this tribe of Lingga Dayaks ;
they have always shown so unmistakable a preference
for the English — faithful under every temptation, and
ready at a moment’s warning to hack them up with a
force of a thousand men.

THE BALAU LADS.

The lads, too, have a spirit more akin to English
youths than I have yet seen among the other tribes.

I well remember the delight with which they learnt
the games we taught them — joining in prisoner’s
base with readiness, hauling at the rope, and shouting
with laughter at French and English, represented by
the names of two Dayak tribes. There is good
material to work on here, and it could not be in
better hands than those of their present missionary,
Mr. Chambers. That his teaching has made any
marked difference in their conduct I do not suppose,
but he has influenced them, and his influence is
yearly increasing.

It is pleasing to record a little success here, at the
Quop, and at Lundu, or we should have to pronounce
the Borneo mission a complete failure.

The largest orang-utans I have ever heard of are
in the Batang Lupar districts. Mr. Crymble, of
Sarawak, saw a very fine one on shore, and landing,
fired and struck him, but the beast dashed away
among the lofty trees ; seven times he was shot at,
but only the eighth hall took fatal effect, and he came
crashing down, and fell under a heap of twigs that he
had torn in vain endeavours to arrest his descent.
The natives refused to approach him, saying it was a
trick — he was hiding to spring upon them as they
approached. Mr. Crymble, however, soon uncovered
him, and measured his length as he lay : it was
five feet two inches, measuring fairly from the head to
the heel. The head and arms were brought in, and
we measured them: the face was fifteen inches broad,
including the enormous callosities that stick out on
either side ; its length was fourteen inches ; round the

TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

wrist was twelve inches, and the upper arm seventeen.
I mention this size particularly, as my friend, Mr.
Wallace, who had more opportunities than any one
else to study these animals, never shot one much over
four feet, and perhaps may doubt the existence of
larger animals ; but he unfortunately sought them in
the Sadong river, where only the smaller species
exists.

The Dayaks tell many stories of the male orang-
utans in old times carrying off their young girls, and
of the latter becoming pregnant by them ; hut they
are, perhaps, merely traditions. I have read some-
where of a huge male carrying off a Dutch girl, who
was, however, immediately rescued by her father and
a party of Javanese soldiers, before any injury beyond
fright had occurred to her.

During the time I lived at Sarawak, we had many
tame orang-utans ; among others, a half-grown female
called Betsy. She was an affectionate, gentle creature
that might have been allowed perfect liberty, had
she not taken too great a liking for the cabbage of
the cultivated palms. When she climbed up one
of these, she would commence tearing away the leaves
to get at the coveted morsel, but shaking or striking
the tree with a stick, would induce her to come down.
Her cage was large, hut she had a great dislike to
being alone, and would follow the men about when-
ever she had an opportunity. At night, or when the
wind was cold, she would carefully wrap herself in
a blanket or rug, and of course choose the warmest
corner of her cage.

After some months, we procured a very young
male, and her delight was extreme. She seemed to

THE ORANG-UTAN.

take the greatest care of it ; but like most of the
small ones brought in, it soon died.

When I lived in Brunei, a very young male was
given me. Not knowing what to do with it, I handed
it over to a family where there were many children.
They were delighted with it, and made it a suit
of clothes. To the trousers it never took kindly ;
but I have often seen him put on his own jacket
in damp weather, though he was not particular about
having it upside down or not. It was quite gentle
and used to be fondled by the very smallest children.

I never saw but one full-grown orang-utan in the
jungle, and he kept himself well sheltered by a large
branch as he peered at us. lie might have shown
himself with perfect safety, as I never could bring
myself to shoot at a monkey ; but a friend who was
collecting specimens saw an enormous one in a very
high tree : he fired ten shots at him with a revolver,
one of which hit him on the leg. As in the case
uThen I saw the orang-utan, he kept himself well
sheltered, but whenever a bullet glanced on a tree or
branch near him, he put out his hand to feel what
had struck the bark. When he found himself
wounded, he removed to the topmost branches, and
was quite exposed, but my friend’s guns were left
behind him, and he failed to obtain this specimen.

It is singular that most of the orang-utans die in
captivity, from eating too much raw fruit. Betsy,
that uras fed principally on cooked rice, must have
lived a twelvemonth with us. I was not in Sarawak
when she died, and do not remember the cause.

On my return, finding that the arrangements were
made, wre started for a fort built at the entrance of

THE SEA DAYAKS.

the Sakarang, which was under the command of Mr.
Brereton, accompanied by the Sarawak forces and the
Balau Dayaks. The real value of the Batang Lupar
as a river adapted for ships ceases shortly after leaving
the junction, as sands begin, and a bore renders the
navigation dangerous to the inexperienced ; hut it pre-
sents a noble expanse of water. As we started after
the flood tide had commenced, the bore had passed
on, and only gave notice of its late presence by a
little bubbling in the shallower places.

The hanks of the river continue low, with only
an occasional rising' of the land : nothing but alluvial

O 7 o

plains, formerly the favourite farming grounds of the
Dayaks, then completely deserted, or tenanted only
by pigs and deer ; but it was expected that as soon as
the peace ceremonies were over, the natives would not
allow this rich soil to remain uncultivated, and the
expectation has been fulfilled, as this abandoned
country was, on my last visit, covered with rice farms,
while villages occupied the banks.

After we had passed Pamutus, the site of the
piratical town destroyed by Sir Henry Keppel, the
river narrows, and is not above a hundred yards
broad at the town of Sakarang, built at the con-
fluence of a river of the same name. The fort was
rather an imposing-looking structure, though- built
entirely of wood. It was square, with flanking towers,
and its heavy armament completely commanded the
river, and rendered it secure against any Dayak force.

This country was at the time influenced, rather
than ruled, by the late Mr. Brereton, as his real
power did not extend beyond the range of his guns.
I never met a man who threw himself more enthu-

SAKARANG HEAD-HUNTING.

siastically into a most difficult position, or who, by his
imaginative mind and yet determined will, exercised
a greater power over Dayaks by the superiority of his
intellect. A stranger can scarcely realize a more
difficult task than that of endeavouring to rule many
thousands of wild warriors without being backed by
physical force ; but he did a great deal, though his
exertions were too much for his strength, and he died
a few years after, while engaged in his arduous task.
In him the Sarawak service lost an admirable officer,
and we an affectionate friend.

When we landed at the fort, we found a great
crowd assembled to meet us, among whom were the
principal Sakarang chiefs, as Gasing and Gila.
Many were fine-looking men of independent bearing
and intelligent features. There were a few women
about, but until the preliminaries of peace had been
settled, they were not encouraged to come into the
town.

It was found impossible to inquire into the origin
of many of the quarrels, so Captain Brooke settled
the matter by agreeing to give each party a sacred
jar (valued at 8/.), a spear, and a flag. This was
considered by them as satisfactory, and it was imme-
diately determined that the next day the formal cere-
monies should take place to ratify the engagement.

There is comparatively little difficulty in putting a
stop to the piratical acts of the Sakarangs, as the
fort commands the river ; but it is almost impossible
to prevent them head-hunting in the interior, there
being so many unguarded outlets by which the hostile
tribes can assail each other. The Bugau Davaks —
a numerous and powerful tribe, living on the Kapuas,

THE SEA DAYAKS.

and tributary to the Dutch — were principally exposed
to their expeditions, and their justifiable retaliations
kept up the hostile feeling.

Whenever a head-hunting party was expected to
he on its return, a strict watch was kept to prevent
it passing the fort. One day, at sunset, a couple of
light canoes were seen stealing along the river hank,
but a shot across their hows made them pull back:
they dared not come up to the fort, having three
human heads with them. The sentries were doubled,
and Mr. Brereton kept watch himself. About two
hours before dawn, something was seen moving under
the opposite bank. A musket was fired ; but as the
object continued floating by, it was thought to be a
trunk of a tree ; but no sooner had it neared the
point than a yell of derision arose, as the swimming
Dayaks sprang into the boat, and pulled off in high
glee up the Sakarang.

To prevent all chance of the hostile tribes of Saka-
rangs and Balaus quarrelling before the treaty was
concluded, it was arranged that the latter tribe should
remain at the entrance of the Undup, a stream about
two miles below the town, and that we should drop
down to that spot next day.

We found a covered stage erected, and a crowd of
nearly a thousand Balau men around it, and in their
long wrar boats : the Sakarangs came also in large
force, and our mediating party of about five hundred
armed men was there likewise.

Captain Brooke clearly explained the object of the
meeting, when the topic wTas taken up by the Datu
Batinggi of Sarawak, who, with easy eloquence,
briefly touched on the various points in question.

PEACE CEREMONIES.

The Dayak chiefs followed ; each protested that it was
their desire to live in peace and friendship ; they
promised to he as brothers and warn each other of
impending dangers. They all appear to have a
natural gift of uttering their sentiments freely with-
out the slightest hesitation.

The ceremony of killing a pig for each tribe fol-
lowed ; it is thought more fortunate if the animal he
severed in two by one stroke of the parang, half
sword, half chopper. Unluckily, the Balau champion
struck inartistically, and but reached half through the
animal. The Sakarangs carefully selected a parang
of approved sharpness, a superior one belonging to
Mr. Crookshank, and choosing a Malay skilled in the
use of weapons placed the half-grown pig before him.
The whole assembly watched him with the greatest
interest, and when he not only cut the pig through, but
buried the weapon to the hilt in the mud, a slight
shout of derision arose among the Sakarangs at the
superior prowess of their champion. The Balaus,
however, took it in good part and joined in the noise,
till about two thousand men were yelling together
with all the power of their lungs.

The sacred jar, the spear, and flag, were now pre-
sented to each tribe, and the assembly, no longer
divided, mixed freely together. The Balaus were
invited to come up to the town, and thus was com-
menced a good understanding which has continued
without interruption to the present time— about eleven
years.

There are many kinds of sacred jars. The best
known are the Gusi, the Rusa, and the Naga, all most
probably of Chinese origin. The Gusi, the most vain-

THE SEA DAYAKS.

able of the three, is of a green colour, about eighteen
inches high, and is, from its medicinal properties,
exceedingly sought after. One fetched at Tawaran
the price of four hundred pounds sterling to be
paid in produce ; the vendor has for the last ten
years been receiving the price, which, according
to his own account, has not yet been paid, though
probably lie has received fifty per cent, over the
amount agreed on from his ignorant customer. They
are most numerous in the south of Borneo. The
Naga is a jar two feet in height, and ornamented
with Chinese figures of dragons ; they are not worth
above seven or eight pounds. While the llusa is
covered with what the native artist considers a repre-
sentation of some kind of deer, it is worth from fifteen
to sixteen pounds. An attempt was made to manu-
facture an imitation in China, but the Dayaks imme-
diately discovered the counterfeit.

We pulled up the Sakarang river to visit Gasing
in his farmhouse, which was large, neat, and comfort-
able ; in form and general appearance like their usual
village houses. These Sea Dayaks arc a very im-
provable people. I have mentioned the tender point
of their character as displayed in Mr. Gomez’s
school at Lundu, and another is their love of imita-
tion. A Sakarang chief noticed a path that was cut
and properly ditched near the fort, and found that in
all weathers it was dry, so he instantly made a similar
path from the landing place on the river to his house,
and I was surprised on entering it to see coloured repre-
sentations of horses, knights in full armour, and ships
drawn vigorously, but very inartisticallv, on the plank
walls. I found, on inquiry, he had been given some

SAKARANG WOMEN AND MEN.

copies of the Illustrated London News , and had endea-
voured to imitate the engravings. He used charcoal,
lime, red ochre, and yellow earth as his materials.

The Sakarang women are, I think, the handsomest
among the Dayaks of Borneo ; they have good figures,
light and elastic ; with well-formed busts and very
interesting, even pretty faces ; with skin of so light
a brown as almost to be yellow, yet a very healthy-
looking yellow, with bright dark eyes, and long
glistening black hair. The girls are very fond of
using an oil made from the Katioh fruit, which
has the scent of almonds. Their dress is not un-
becoming, petticoats reaching from below the waist
to the knees, and jackets ornamented with fringe.
All their clothes are made from native cloth of native
yarn, spun from cotton grown in the country. These
girls are generally thought to be lively in conversation
and quick in repartee.

The Sakarang men are clean built, upright in
their gait, and of a very independent bearing.
They are well behaved and gentle in their man-
ners : and, on their own ground, superior to all
others in activity. Their national dress is a chawat
or waistcloth, and in warlike expeditions they are
partial to bright red cloth jackets, so that when
assembled at a distance, they look like a party of
English soldiers. The Sakarang and Seribas men
have the peculiar practice of wearing rings all along
the edge of their ears, sometimes as many as a dozen.
I thought this custom confined to them, but I
find the Muruts of Padas, opposite Labuan, also
practise it.

Their strength and activity are remarkable. I have

THE SEA DAYAKS.

seen a Dayak carry a heavy Englishman down the
steepest hills ; and when one of their companions is
severely wounded they hear him home, whatever may
be the distance. They exercise a great deal from
boyhood in wrestling, swimming, running, and sham-
fighting, and are excellent jumpers. When a little
more civilized they would make good soldiers, being
brave by nature. They are, however, short — a man
five feet five inches high would he considered tall,
the average is perhaps five feet three inches.

We did not visit the interior of the Batang Lupar,
but it is reported to be very populous, and the Chinese
are now working gold there. I have penetrated to
the very sources of the Sakarang, and found it, after
a couple of days’ pull, much encumbered by drift-wood
and rocks, with shallow rapids over pebbly beds.
This interior is very populous, and from a view we
had on a hill over the upper part of the Seribas
River, as far as the hills in which the Kanowit rises,
we could perceive but little old forest.

I may mention that the crime of poisoning is
almost unknown on the north-west coast, but it is very
. generally believed the people of the interior of the
Kapuas, a few days’ walk from the Batang Lupar, are
much given to the practice. Sherif Sahib, and many
others who visited that country, died suddenly, and
the Malays assert it was from poison ; but of this
I have no proof.

Near the very sources of the Kapuas live the
Malau Dayaks, who are workers in gold and brass, and
it is very singular that members of this tribe can
wander safely through the villages of the head-hunt-
ing Seribas and Sakarang, and arc never molested, —

ANECDOTE — RAMBI FRUIT.

on the contrary, they are eagerly welcomed by the female
portion of the population, and the young men arc not
indifferent to their arrival ; but the specimens of their
work that I have seen do not show much advance in
civilization. The Malau districts produce gold, and
it is said very fine diamonds.

I will insert here an anecdote of the public execu-
tioner of Sakarang. Last year, a native was tried and
condemned to death for a barbarous murder, and
according to the custom in Malay countries, the next
day was fixed for carrying out the sentence. A Chinese
Christian lad, who was standing near the executioner,
said to him earnestly, “ What! no time given him for
repentance?” “Repentance!” cried the executioner,
contemptuously. “ Repentance ! he is not a British
subject.” A curious confusion of ideas. Both were
speaking in English, and very good English.

I tasted here, for the first time, the rambi fruit,
that looks something like a large grape, growing in
bunches, pleasantly sweet, yet with a slight acidity,
yellow skin, with the interior divided into two fieshy
pulps.

At the broadest part of the Batang Lupar, nearly
four miles across, I saw a herd of pigs swimming from
one shore to the other. If pigs do this with case,
we need not be surprised that the tigers get over the
old Singapore Strait to devour, on a low average, a
man a day.

On our return, while anchored at Pamutus, we saw
the bore coming up, and it was a pretty sight from
our safe position. A crested wave spread from shore
to shore, and rushed along with inconceivable speed,
to subside as it approached deep water, to commence

TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

again at the sands with as great violence when it had
passed us. At full and change, few native boats
escape which are caught on the shallows, hut are
rolled over and over, and the men are dashed breath-
less on the hank, few escaping with life.

Some of our Malays went ashore last night to snare
deer, while the Balaus tried for pigs. It used to be a
very favourite hunting ground of the Dayaks, who are
expert in everything appertaining to the jungle ; they
nearly always employ dogs, which are very small, not
larger than a spaniel, sagacious" and clever in the
jungle, hut stupid, slecpy-looking creatures out of it,
bavin £ all the attributes of bad-looking, mongrel
curs as they lurk about the houses ; but when some
four or live are led into the jungle, dense and pathless
as it is in most places, then they arc ready to attack
a wild hoar ten times their size. And the wild hoar
of the East is a very formidable animal. I have seen
one that measured forty inches high at the shoulder,
with a head nearly two feet in length. Sir Henry
Ivcppel also was present when this was shot, and he
thought a small child could have sat within its jaws.
Captain Hamilton of the 21st M. N. I., a very
successful sportsman, killed one forty-two inches
high. Native hunting with good dogs is easy work:
the master loiters about gathering rattans, fruit, or
other things of various uses to his limited wants,
and the dogs heat the jungle for themselves, and
when they have found a scent, give tongue, and soon
run the animal to hay : the master knowing this
by the peculiar hark, follows quickly and spears the
game.

I have known as many as six or seven pigs killed

TWO KINDS OF DEER.

before midday by Dayaks while walking along a
beach : their dogs searching on the borders of the
forest, bring the pigs to bay, but never really attack
till the master comes with his spear to help them.
The boars are very dangerous when wounded, as they
turn furiously on the hunter, and unless lie has the
means of escape by climbing a tree, he would fare
ill in spite of his sword and spear, if it were not for
the assistance of Ins dogs. 1 liese creatures, though
small, never give in unless severely wounded, and by
attacking the hind legs, keep the pig continually
turning round.

The Dayaks arc very fond of pork, and fortu-
nately it is so, or they would be much more easily
persuaded to become Mahomedans. They have a
sort of respect for the domestic pig, and an English
gentleman was in disgrace at Lingga on account of
allowing his dogs to hunt one that they met in the
fruit-groves, which in any civilized country would
have been considered wild. The European sportsman
said in his defence, that lie could not help clapping
his hands when he heard his dogs give tongue in
chase. Upon a hot day a deer is soon run down by
them ; in fact, hunters declare that they could easily
catch them themselves in very dry weather, when the
heat is extremely oppressive. The deer have regular
bathing-places to which they resort, sometimes
during the day, and at others by night.

There are, I believe, only two kinds of deer in
Borneo, one HusaBalum, and the other Iiusa Lalang.
The former frequents low swampy ground, and has
double branched horns, averaging about eighteen
inches in length. The Busa Lalang is a small,

VOL. I.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

plump, hill deer, with short horns, and having one
fork branch near the roots.

The Dayaks say there is another kind ; but after
making many inquiries, it appears to he the same as
llusa Balum. Occasionally you meet with deer
whose horns are completely encased in skin.

The natives snare them with rattan loops and
nooses, fastened on a long rope. They are of differ-
ent lengths, varying from twenty to fifty feet. A
number of these attached to each other, and resting
on the tops of forked sticks, they stretch across a
point of land where they have previously ascertained
that deer arc lying. After they have arranged the
snares, the party is divided, one division watching
them, and the other landing on the point ; barking
dogs and yelling men rush up towards the snare,
driving the game before them ; the deer, though they
sometimes lie very close, generally spring up imme-
diately and dart off bewildered, rushing into the
nooses, catching their necks or their fore legs in
them ; the men on the watch dash up and cut them
down, or spear them before they can break through.
They sometimes catch as many as twenty in one night,
hut generally only one or two ; snaring may he carried
on either in the light or dark.

The evening we set sail from the Batang Lupar,
we had a discussion on Marsden’s theory of the
land and sea breezes ; one of our party denied the
correctness of the authority whom we looked upon as
not to be challenged in all that relates to the Eastern
Archipelago. At midnight the land breeze commenced
blowing, as the ocean does retain the heat longer than
the land, and at midday the sea breeze set in, which

THE REJANG.

carried us pleasantly onward, passing the mouths of
the Seribas and Kalaka, to our anchorage in the
noble river of Rejang. We did not triumph over our
adversarv, hut recommended him to study Marsden
more carefully. On the bar at the entrance of this
river at dead low water, we had one cast which did
not exceed three fathoms, hut I do not think we were
in the centre of the channel.

At the entrance of the Rejang is a small town
of Millanaus, a people differing greatly from the
Malays in manners and customs ; some converted to
Islamism are clothed like other Mahomedans, while
those who still delight in pork dress like Dayaks, to
which race they undoubtedly belong. Their houses
arc built on lofty posts, or rather whole trunks of
trees are used for the purpose, to defend themselves
against the Seribas.

It is stated that at the erection of the largest house,
a deep hole was dug to receive the first post, which
was then suspended over it ; a slave girl was placed in
the excavation, and at a signal the lashings were cut,
and the enormous timber descended, crushing the girl
to death. It was a sacrifice to the spirits. I once
saw a more quiet imitation of the same ceremony.
The chief of the Quop Dayaks was about to erect a
flag-staff near his house : the excavation was made,
and the timber secured, but a chicken only was thrown
in and crushed by the descending flag-staff.

I made particular inquiries of Haji Abdulraman, and
his followers, of Muka, whilst I was in Brunei last
year. They said that the Milanaus of their town who
remained unconverted to Islamism have within the last
few years sacrificed slaves at the death of a respect-

3—2

THE SEA DAYAKS.

able man, and buried them with the corpse, in order
that they might be ready to attend their master in
the other world. This conversation took place in the
presence of the Sultan, who said he had often heard
the report of such acts having been committed. One
of the nobles present observed that such things were
rare, but that he had known of a similar sacrifice
taking place among the Bisayas of the liiver Kalias,
opposite our colony of Labuan. He said a large hole
was dug in the ground, in which was placed four
slaves and the body of the dead chief. A small sup-
ply of provisions was added, when beams and boughs
were thrown upon the grave, and earth heaped to a
great height over the whole. A prepared bamboo
was allowed to convey air to those confined, who were
thus left to starve. These sacrifices can seldom occur,
or we should have heard more of them. There were
rumours, however, that at the death of the Ivayan
chief Tamawan, whom I met during my expedition to
the Baram, slaves were devoted to destruction, that
they might follow him in the future world.

In front of the houses were erected swings for the
amusement of the young lads and the little children.
One about forty feet in height was fastened to strong
poles arranged as a triangle, and kept firm in their
position by ropes like the shrouds of a ship. From
the top hung a strong cane rope, with a large ring or
hoop at the end. About thirty feet on one side was
erected a sloping stage as a starting-point. Mounting
on this, one of the hoys with a string drew the hoop
towards him, and making a spring into it, away he
went. Other lads were ready, who successively sprung
upon the ring or seized the rope, until there were

THE RE JAN Q.

five or six in a cluster, shouting, laughing, yellino-
and swinging. For the younger children smaller ones
were erected, as it required courage and skill to play
on the larger.

The Iiejang is one of the finest rivers in Borneo,
and extends far into the interior. We ascended it up-
wards of one hundred miles, and never had less than
four fathoms. Mr. Steel, who lived many years at
the Kanowit fort, told me that it continued navigable
for about forty miles farther, then there were danger-
ous rapids, but above them the water again deepened.
The Iiejang has many mouths, but the principal are
the one we entered, and another to the eastward of
Cape Sirik, called Egan. Its tributaries below the
rapids are the Sirikei, the Kanowit, and the Katibas,
the last two very populous.

Above the junction, the Iiejang is about a mile and
a half broad, with islets scattered over it, but after-
wards it contracts to about a thousand yards, and has
a fine appearance. The scenery here is not varied by
hill or dale; the land is lowf but the banks were ren-
dered interesting by the varied tints of the jungle ;
blossoms and young leaves were bursting out in every
variety of colour, from the faintest green to the
darkest brown.

The air was filled with a kind of may-fly in asto-
nishing numbers ; I have never seen anything like
it before or since : they fell by myriads into the water,
and afforded a feast to thousands of fish that rose
with a dash to the surface, covering the river with
tiny widening circles.

During our passage up we had an instance of the
insecurity to which the head-hunters formerly reduced

THE SEA DAYAKS.

this country. We landed at a place called Munggu
Ayer (water liill) to bathe; a party of our men in-
sisted on keeping watch over us, as many people had
lost their lives here. Being a good spot to procure
water, boats are accustomed to take in their supplies
at this well, and the Dayaks lurked in the neighbour-
ing jungle to rush out on the unwary.

Anchored opposite the entrance of the Kanowit,
where it was intended to build a fort to stop the
exit of the fleets of Doyak boats that used to
descend this river to attack the people of the Sago
countries. Leaving the force thus engaged, I went
and took up my residence in the village of the
Kanowit Dayaks, built opposite the entrance of that
stream. The Rejang is here about 600 or 700 yards
broad.

The village consisted of two long houses, one
measuring 200 feet, the other 4/5. They were built
on posts about forty feet in height and some eighteen
inches in diameter. The reason they give for making
their posts so thick is this : that when the Kayans
attack a village they drag one of their long tamuis or
war boats ashore, and, turning it over, use it as a
monstrous shield. About fifty bear it on their heads
till they arrive at the ill-made palisades that surround
the hamlets, which they have little difficulty in demo-
lishing ; they then get under the house, and endea-
vour to cut away the posts, being well protected from
the villagers above by their extemporized shield. If
the posts arc thin, the assailants quickly gain the
victory ; if very thick, it gives the garrison time to
defeat them by allowing heavy beams and stones to
fall upon the boat, and even to bring their little brass

THE KANOWIT DAVAKS. • 39

wall pieces to bear upon it ; the Kayans will fly if
they suffer a slight loss.

The Kanowit Dayaks are a very different people
from those who live on the river of the same name ;
the latter arc all immigrants from the Serihas and
Sakarang. The appearance of these people is very
inferior ; few of them have the tine healthy look of
those I saw about Mr. Brereton’s fort ; the women are
remarkably plain, and scarcely possess what is so
common in Borneo, a bright pair of eyes ; ophthalmia
is very prevalent among them, partly caused by their
extracting their evelashes. Thev have another custom
which is equally inelegant ; they draw down the lobes
of their ears to their shoulders, by means of heavy
lead carings.

Some of the men are curiously tatooed; a kind of
pattern covers their breast and shoulders, and some-
times extends to their knees, having much the
appearance of scale-armour. Others have their chins
ornamented to resemble beards, an appendage denied
them by nature.

I have never before entered a village without
noticing some interesting children, hut I observed
none here ; though active enough, they looked un-
healthy and dirty.

Belabun, the chief of this tribe, lias had, from his
position, a very extensive intercourse with men, parti-
cularly with the Kayans, who inhabit the upper
portion of the river. One of our objects in visiting
the country was to proceed to the interior to make
friends with the numerous Kay an chiefs who live
there ; hut the small-pox had, unfortunately, broken
out among them, and the ascent of the river was for-

THE SEA DAYAKS.

bidden, and all had fled into the forest. I much
regretted this, as I never had another opportunity of
ascending the llejang. I will not introduce here the
information we collected concerning the Kayans, as I
intend giving an account of the visit I made shortly
after to a branch of those people who lived on the
Baram.

It is singular how the story of the men with tails
has spread. I have heard of it in every part I have
visited, but their country is always a few days’ journey
farther off. The most circumstantial account I ever had
was from a man who had traded much on the north-
east coast of Borneo. He said lie had seen and felt
the tails, they were four inches long, and were very
stiff, so that all the people sat on seats in which there
was a hole made for this remarkable appendage to
fit in.

Sherif Musahor, a chief of Arab descent, and one
of the most violent men that ever tormented these
countries, arriving from Siriki, came in to sec us; he
is a very heavy-looking fellow ; at one time we were
great friends, as we were equally fond of chess. It is
not my object to enter into political affairs, but I may
mention that having instigated the murder of two
Englishmen lie fled north, and after a variety of ad-
ventures found himself in 1861 at the head of a hand
of desperadoes at a place called Muka. Sir James
Brooke had often been reported dead, and on his
arrival at Sarawak the news spread like wildfire along
the coast. Sherif Musahor, greatly disturbed, called
before him a Madras trader and asked him, “Hid
you see the llajah ? ’

“ Yes.”

EFFECT OF BATHING IN THE NILE.

“Had lie all his teeth perfect?”

“ Yes.”

“ Ah, you lie ! when I saw him last he had a front
tooth knocked out.”

The Madras man saw the fiery look of this de-
sperate chief, but without losing his presence of mind
for a moment, answered, “ What, have you not heard
that the Rajah bathed in the waters of the Nile, and
that it has restored his youth again ?”

Ilis reply was satisfactory to all the Mahomedans
present, who believe implicitly in every wonder told
in the Arabian Nights.

One afternoon, it being a very warm day, we were
reclining on our mats, when a burst of wailing and

O 1 O

howling around us told that had news had been
received. One of the chief’s brothers had returned
from the interior and brought the following intel-
ligcnce : It appeared that about two years and a half
ago, a younger brother longing to see the world, had
started off to the sources of the Kapuas river, which
ultimately falls into the sea at Pontianah, a Dutch
settlement, taking with him thirteen young men ; he
travelled on till he reached a Kayan tribe with whom
his people were friends, and stayed with them for a
few months. One day their hosts started on a head-
hunting expedition, and invited seven of their guests
to accompany them : the latter never returned, having
all been killed by the Kayans themselves. Why or
wherefore it is impossible to tell, but it is supposed
that having failed in their head-hunt, and being
ashamed to return to their women without these
trophies, they had fallen upon their guests. Their
remaining companions being in a neighbouring vil-

THE SEA DAYAKS.

lage escaped. Belabun, anxious to have news of his
brother, had sent the one who had just returned to
look for him. He patiently tracked him, hut meeting
with the seven survivors, lie learnt the fate of his
brother ; they returned overland, hut the young chief,
impatient to reach home, made a hark canoe, in which
he reached the village.

Belabun and his people were greatly excited, and
moved about the house in a restless and anxious
manner, while the wailing of the female relatives was
very distressing, particularly of the young girl whom
the wanderer left as a bride.

It may appear incredible that even the wildest
people should commit so treacherous a deed, but
before the Kanowit w7as well guarded, a Sakarang
chief from the interior, named Buah 11 ay a, passed with
fifty war boats and pulled up the Bejang. Arriving
at a village of Bakatan Dayaks, his allies, he took
the men as his guides to attack some Punans, who,
however, escaped ; mortified at this result he killed
the guides, and on his return carried off all the
women and children as captives. This was the chief
who refused to enter an English church, saying “ an
old man might die through entering the white men’s
tabernacle.” He would or could give no explanation
of this observation.

These Kanowits follow the Millanau custom of
sending much of a dead man’s property adrift in a
frail canoe on the river : they talk of all his pro-
perty, but this is confined to talk.

We heard so much of the deceased chief’s goods,
which were to be thrown away, as it is considered
they belong to the departed and not to those who

CUSTOMS ON THE DEATH OF A RELATIVE. 43

remain, that we went to the place where they lay.
We found a sort of four-sided hicr erected, covered
with various coloured cloths, and within it his bride
widow lay moaning and wailing, surrounded by his
favourite arms, his gongs, his ornaments, and all that
he considered valuable. Among his treasures was
the handle of a kris, representing the figure of Budha
in the usual sitting posture, which they said had
descended to them from their ancestors.

As I expected, these valuables were not sent adrift,
but merely a few old things, that even sacrilegious
strangers would scarcely think worth plundering.

A short time before the Rejang came under Sir
James Brooke’s sway, a relation of Belabun died.
Having no enemy near, he looked about for a victim.
Seeing a Dayak of the Ivatibas passing down the
river, he and a small party followed and overtook him
just as he reached the junction; they persuaded him
to come ashore, and then seized and killed him,
taking his head home in triumph. As this murder
took place before Sir James Brooke’s jurisdiction
extended over the country, it was difficult to bring
him to account, but on the relations coming to
demand satisfaction, Captain Brooke insisted upon
his paying the customary fine, which satisfied the
Katibas.

The second chief of this village is Sikalei, who,
when one of his children died, sallied out and killed
the first man he met — they say it was one of his own
tribe, but it was the custom to kill the first person,
even if it were a brother : fortunately they now arc
brought under a Government which is strong enough
to prevent such practices.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

They are a very curious people ; the men dress as
Dayalcs, the women as Malays ; and the latter part
their hair in the middle, while all the other races
draw it hack from the forehead. They appear to he
much influenced in their customs by the surrounding
people ; the men tatoo like Kayans, the women
not.

We saw a very curious war-dance ; two men, one
of a llejang tribe, the other from a distant river,
commenced a sham fight, with sword and shield ; one
of them was dressed as a Malay, the other as a
Dayak. With slow side movements of their arms and
legs, advancing and retreating, cutting and guarding

O' O O 7 o o o

to a measured step, and in regular time ; then they
changed to quick movements, stooping low till the
shield completely covered them : with a hopping,
dancing motion they kept giving and receiving blows
till one of them fled ; the other immediately followed,
hut cautiously, as the fugitive was supposed to plant
spikes in the path. At last they again met, and after
a fierce combat one was slain, and the victor with a
slow dancing step approached the body and was
supposed to cut off the head of his enemy ; but, on
looking at it attentively, he found he had killed a
friend, and showed signs of much grief. With a
measured tread, he again drew near the body and
pretended to restore the head ; he retired and ad-
vanced several times, shaking the various limbs of
the friend’s body, when the slain sprang up as lively
as ever, and the two wound up by a frantic dance.

I have mentioned the ceremonies that took place
at the solemnization of peace between the Sakarangs
and Balaus ; here they were slightly different. A pig

WILD TRIBES.

was placed between the representatives of two tribes,
who, after calling down the vengeance of the spirits
on those who broke the treaty, plunged their spears
into the animal, and then exchanged weapons. Draw-
ing their krises, they each bit the blade of the other’s,
and so completed the affair. The sturdy chief of
Kajulo declared he considered his word as more
binding than any such ceremony.

In the neighbourhood of the Kano wit, and scattered
about these countries, are the wandering tribes of
Pakatan and Punan, which seldom build regular
houses, but prefer running up temporary huts, and
when they have exhausted the jungle around of wild
beasts and other food, they move to a new spot.
They arc the great collectors of wax, edible birds’
nests, camphor and rattans. They arc popularly said
to be fairer than the other inhabitants of Borneo, as
they arc never exposed to the sun, living in the
thickest part of the old forest. Those we have seen
were certainly darker, but they themselves assert that
their women are fairer. It is probable that exposure to
the air has as much effect upon them as exposure to
the sun. I have often met with their little huts in
the forest and used them as night lodgings, but I
have never come across these wild tribes. I have
seen individual men, but never communities.

The Pakatans and Punans are the true manufac-
turers of the Sumpitan, or blow-pipe; and in their
hands it is a formidable weapon. It is curious to
examine this product of their skill ; and wrc cannot
but admire the accuracy with which the hole is
drilled through a hard wood shaft some seven or
eight feet long.

TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

I had often heard of the deadly effect of the poison
into which the arrow wras dipped, but always dis-
believed the bulk of the native stories, though I must
believe in the evidence we have lately had. In 1 859,
the Kanowit tribe, instigated by Sherif Musahor,
murdered twro English gentlemen, and then fled into
the interior. Mr. Johnson, who led the attack on
them, tells me he lost thirty men by wounds from the
poisoned arrows. He found the bodies of Dayaks
who had gone out as skirmishers without a mark,
beyond the simple puncture where a drop of blood
rested on the wound. One man wras struck near
him ; he instantly had the arrow extracted, the wound
sucked, a glass of brandy administered, and the
patient sent off to the boats about four miles distant.
Two companions supported him, and they had strict
orders not to allow him to sleep till he reached the
landing-place : they made him keep awake, and he
recovered. As it is common to destroy deer, wild
boars and other creatures with these arrows, no doubt
man also can be killed.

I will now give an account of the manners and
customs of the Sea Dayaks.

CHAPTER IT.

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

Ceremonies at the Birth of a Child — Infanticide — Desire for
Children — A Talkative and Sociable People — Great Concord in
Families — Method of Settling Disputes — Marriage Ceremonies
— Pride of Birth — Chastity — Punishment of Indiscreet Lovers
— Bundling and Company-keeping — Love — Anecdotes — Sepa-
rations— Division of Household Duties — Flirting — Divorce
— Burials — Religion — Belief in a Supreme Being — Good and
Evil Spirits — The Small-pox — Priests — Some Dress as Women
— Mourning — Sacrifices — Human Sacrifices — Unlucky Omens
— Reconciliation— Belief in a Future State — The other World
- — Dayaks Litigious — Head-feast — Head-hunting — Its Origin —
Horrible Revenge — Small Inland Expeditions — Cat-like War-
fare— Atrocious Case — Large Inland Expeditions — War-boats —
Edible Clay — Necessity for a Head — Dayaks very Intelligent — •
Slaves — Objections to Eating certain Animals, or Killing
others — Change of Names — Degrees of Affinity ] within which
Marriages may take place — Sickness — Cholera — Manufactures
— Agriculture — Method of taking Bees’ Nests — Lying Heaps —
Passports — Ordeals — Language.

At the Birth of Children. — The Sea Dayaks naturally
look upon this as a very ordinary event ; occasionally
guns are fired to celebrate it, hut even that practice has
almost fallen into disuse. However, a few months
after the birth of the infant, the Sakarang Dayaks
give a feast in its honour, which generally takes place
before they commence preparing their land for the
rice crop, and another after the harvest to “ launch
the child ” on the world. During these feasts the
manang, or priest, waves the odoriferous arcca-blossom

THE SEA DAYAKS.

and tributary to the Dutch — were principally exposed
to their expeditions, and their justifiable retaliations
kept up the hostile feeling.

Whenever a head-hunting party was expected to
he on its return, a strict watch was kept to prevent
it passing the fort. One day, at sunset, a couple of
light canoes were seen stealing along the river bank,
but a shot across their hows made them pull back:
they dared not come up to the fort, having three
human heads with them. The sentries were doubled,
and Mr. Brercton kept watch himself. About two
hours before dawn, something was seen moving under
the opposite bank. A musket was fired ; but as the
object continued floating by, it was thought to be a
trunk of a tree ; but no sooner had it neared the
point than a yell of derision arose, as the swimming
Dayaks sprang into the boat, and pulled off in high
glee up the Sakarang.

We found a covered stage erected, and a crowd of
nearly a thousand Balau men around it, and in their
Ions' war boats : the Sakarangs came also in large
force, and our mediating party of about five hundred
armed men was there likewise.

Captain Brooke clearly explained the object of the
meeting, when the topic was taken up by the Datu
Batinggi of Sarawak, who, with easy eloquence,
briefly touched on the various points in question.

PEACE CEREMONIES.

The ceremony of killing a pig for each tribe fol-
lowed ; it is thought more fortunate if the animal be
severed in two by one stroke of the parang, half
sword, half chopper. Unluckily, the Balau champion
struck inartisticallv, and but reached half through the
animal. The Sakarangs carefully selected a parang
of approved sharpness, a superior one belonging to
Mr. Crookshank, and choosing a Malay skilled in the
use of weapons placed the half-grown pig before him.
The whole assembly watched him with the greatest
interest, and when he not only cut the pig through, but
buried the weapon to the hilt in the mud, a slight
shout of derision arose among the Sakarangs at the
superior prowess of their champion. The Balaus,
however, took it in good part and joined in the noise,
till about two thousand men were yelling together
with all the power of their lungs.

There are many kinds of sacred jars. The best
known are the Gusi, the Busa, and the Naga, all most
probably of Chinese origin. The Gusi, the most vain-

THE SEA DAYAKS.

able of the three, is of a green colour, about eighteen
inches high, and is, from its medicinal properties,
exceedingly sought after. One fetched at Tawaran
the price of four hundred pounds sterling to he
paid in produce ; the vendor has for the last ten
years been receiving the price, which, according
to his own account, has not yet been paid, though
probably lie has received fifty per cent, over the
amount agreed on from his ignorant customer. They
are most numerous in the south of Borneo. The
Naga is a jar two feet in height, and ornamented
with Chinese figures of dragons ; they are not worth
above seven or eight pounds. While the Busa is
covered with what the native artist considers a repre-
sentation of some kind of deer, it is worth from fifteen
to sixteen pounds. An attempt was made to manu-
facture an imitation in China, but the Dayaks imme-
diately discovered the counterfeit.

We pulled up the Sakarang river to visit Gasing
in his farmhouse, which was large, neat, and comfort-
able ; in form and general appearance like their usual
village houses. These Sea Dayaks are a verv im-
provable people. I have mentioned the tender point
of their character as displayed in Mr. Gomez’s
school at Lundu, and another is their love of imita-
tion. A Sakarang chief noticed a path that was cut
and properly ditched near the fort, and found that in
all weathers it was dry, so he instantly made a similar
path from the landing place on the river to his house,
and I was surprised on entering it to see coloured repre-
sentations of horses, knights in full armour, and ships
drawn vigorously, but very inartistically, on the plank
walls. I found, on inquiry, he had been given some

SAKARANG WOMEN AND MEN.

copies of the Illustrated London News , and had endea-
voured to imitate the engravings. lie used charcoal,
lime, red ochre, and yellow earth as his materials.

The Sakarang women are, I think, the handsomest
among the Dayaks of Borneo ; they have good figures,
light and elastic ; with well-formed busts and very
interesting, even pretty faces ; with skin of so light
a brown as almost to be yellow, yet a very healthy-
looking yellow, with bright dark eyes, and long
glistening black hair. The girls arc very fond of
using an oil made from the Katioh fruit, which
has the scent of almonds. Their dress is not un-
becoming, petticoats reaching from below the waist
to the knees, and jackets ornamented with fringe.
All their clothes are made from native cloth of native
yarn, spun from cotton grown in the country. These
girls are generally thought to be lively in conversation
and quick in repartee.

The Sakarang men arc clean built, upright in
their gait, and of a very independent bearing.
They are well behaved and gentle in their man-
ners : and, on their own ground, superior to all
others in activity. Their national dress is a chawat
or waistcloth, and in warlike expeditions they are
partial to bright red cloth jackets, so that when
assembled at a distance, they look like a party of
English soldiers. The Sakarang and Seribas men
have the peculiar practice of wearing rings all along
the edge of their ears, sometimes as many as a dozen.
I thought this custom confined to them, but I
find the Muruts of Padas, opposite Labuan, also
practise it.

Their strength and activity arc remarkable. I have

THE SEA DAYAKS.

seen a Dayak carry a heavy Englishman down the
steepest hills ; and when one of their companions is
severely wounded they hear him home, whatever may
be the distance. They exercise a great deal from
boyhood in wrestling, swimming, running, and sham-
fighting, and are excellent jumpers. When a little
more civilized they would make good soldiers, being
brave by nature. They are, however, short — a man
five feet five inches high would be considered tall,
the average is perhaps five feet three inches.

We did not visit the interior of the Batang Lupar,
but it is reported to be very populous, and the Chinese
arc now working gold there. I have penetrated to
the very sources of the Sakarang, and found it, after
a couple of days’ pull, much encumbered by drift-wood
and rocks, with shallow rapids over pebbly beds.
This interior is very populous, and from a view we
had on a hill over the upper part of the Seribas
River, as far as the hills in which the Kanowit rises,
we could perceive but little old forest.

I may mention that the crime of poisoning is
almost unknowm on the north-west coast, but it is very
. generally believed the people of the interior of the
Ivapuas, a few days’ walk from the Batang Lupar, are
much given to the practice. Sherif Sahib, and many
others who visited that country, died suddenly, and
the Malays assert it wTas from poison ; but of this
I have no proof.

ANECDOTE — RAMBI FRUIT.

on the contrary, they are eagerly welcomed by the female
portion of the population, and the young men are not
indifferent to their arrival ; but the specimens of their
work that I have seen do not show much advance in
civilization. The Malau districts produce gold, and
it is said very fine diamonds.

I tasted here, for the first time, the rambi fruit,
that looks something like a large grape, growing in
hunches, pleasantly sweet, yet with a slight acidity,
yellow skin, with the interior divided into two fleshy
pulps.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

Some of our Malays went ashore last night to snare
deer, while the Balaus tried for pigs. It used to be a
very favourite hunting ground of the Dayaks, who are
expert in everything appertaining to the jungle ; they
nearly always employ dogs, which are very small, not
larger than a spaniel, sagacious" and clever in the
jungle, hut stupid, sleepy-looking creatures out of it,
having all the attributes of bad-looking, mongrel
curs as they lurk about the houses ; but when some
four or five arc led into the jungle, dense and pathless
as it is in most places, then they are ready to attack
a wild hoar ten times their size. And the wild boar
of the East is a very formidable animal. I have seen
one that measured forty inches high at the shoulder,
with a head nearly two feet in length. Sir Henry
Keppel also was present when this was shot, and he
thought a small child could have sat within its jaws.
Captain Hamilton of the 21st INI. N. I., a very
successful sportsman, killed one forty-two inches
high. Native hunting with good dogs is easy work;
the master loiters about gathering rattans, fruit, or
other things of various uses to his limited wants,
and the dogs heat the jungle for themselves, and
when they have found a scent, give tongue, and soon
run the animal to bay : the master knowing this
by the peculiar bark, follows quickly and spears the
game.

I have known as many as six or seven pigs killed

TWO KINDS OF DEER.

before midday by Dayaks while walking' along a
beach : their dogs searching on the borders of the
forest, bring the pigs to bay, but never really attack
till the master comes with his spear to help them.
The boars arc very dangerous when wounded, as they
turn furiously on the hunter, and unless lie has the
means of escape by climbing a tree, he would larc
ill in spite of his sword and spear, if it were not for
the assistance of his dogs. These creatures, though
small, never give in unless severely wounded, and by
attacking the hind legs, keep the pig continually
turning round.

The Dayaks arc very fond of pork, and fortu-
nately it is so, or they would he much more easily
persuaded to become Mahomedans. They have a
sort of respect for the domestic pig, and an English
gentleman was in disgrace at Lingga on account of
allowing his dogs to hunt one that they met in the
fruit-groves, which in any civilized country would
have been considered wild. The European sportsman
said in his defence, that he could not help clapping
his hands when lie heard his dogs give tongue in
chase. Upon a hot day a deer is soon run down by
them ; in fact, hunters declare that they could easily
catch them themselves in very dry weather, when the
heat is extremely oppressive. The deer have regular
bathing-places to which they resort, sometimes
during the day, and at others by night.

There are, I believe, only two kinds of deer in
Borneo, one llusa Balum, and the other Ilusa Lalaim.
The former frequents low swampy ground, and has
double branched horns, averaging about eighteen
inches in length. The Busa Lalang is a small,

VOL. I.

TI1E SEA DAYAKS.

plump, hill deer, with short horns, and having one
fork branch near the roots.

The Dayaks say there is another kind ; but after
making many inquiries, it appears to be the same as
llusa Balum. Occasionally you meet with deer
whose horns are completely encased in skin.

The natives snare them with rattan loops and
nooses, fastened on a long rope. They are of differ-
ent lengths, varying from twenty to fifty feet. A
number of these attached to each other, and resting
on the tops of forked sticks, they stretch across a
point of land where they have previously ascertained
that deer arc lying. After they have arranged the
snares, the party is divided, one division watching
them, and the other landing on the point ; barking
dogs and yelling men rush up towards the snare,
driving the game before them ; the deer, though they
sometimes lie very close, generally spring up imme-
diately and dart off bewildered, rushing into the
nooses, catching their necks or their fore legs in
them ; the men on the watch dash up and cut them
down, or spear them before they can break through.
They sometimes catch as many as twenty in one night,
but generally only one or two ; snaring may be carried
on either in the light or dark.

The evening we set sail from the liatang Lupar,
we had a discussion on Marsden’s theory of the
land and sea breezes ; one of our party denied the
correctness of the authority whom we looked upon as
not to be challenged in all that relates to the Eastern
Archipelago. At midnight the land breeze commenced
blowing, as the ocean docs retain the heat longer than
the land, and at midday the sea breeze set in, which

THE REJANG.

carried us pleasantly onward, passing the mouths of
the Seribas and Kalaka, to our anchorage in the
noble river of Ilejang. We did not triumph over our
adversary, but recommended him to study Marsden
more carefully. On the bar at the entrance of this
river at dead low water, we had one cast which did
not exceed three fathoms, but I do not think we were
in the centre of the channel.

At the entrance of the Ilejang is a small town
of Millanaus, a people differing greatly from the
Malays in manners and customs ; some converted to
Islamism arc clothed like other Mahomedans, while
those who still delight in pork dress like Dayaks, to
which race they undoubtedly belong. Their houses
arc built on lofty posts, or rather whole trunks of
trees are used for the purpose, to defend themselves
against the Seribas.

3—2

3 G

THE SEA DAYAKS.

able man, and buried them with the corpse, in order
that they might be ready to attend their master in
tbc other world. This conversation took place in the
presence of the Sultan, who said lie had often heard
the report of such acts having been committed. One
of the nobles present observed that such things were
rare, but that he had known of a similar sacrifice
taking place among the Bisayas of the Hirer Kalias,
opposite our colony of Labuan. lie said a large hole
was dug in the ground, in which was placed four
slaves and the body of the dead chief. A small sup-
ply of provisions was added, when beams and boughs
were thrown upon the grave, and earth heaped to a
great height over the whole. A prepared bamboo
was allowed to convey air to those confined, who were
thus left to starve. These sacrifices can seldom occur,
or we should have heard more of them. There were
rumours, however, that at the death of the Kayan
chief Tamawan, whom I met during my expedition to
the Baram, slaves were devoted to destruction, that
they might follow him in the future world.

In front of the houses were erected swings for the
amusement of the young lads and the little children.
One about forty feet in height was fastened to strong
poles arranged as a triangle, and kept firm in their
position by ropes like the shrouds of a ship. From
the top hung a strong cane rope, with a large ring or
hoop at the end. About thirty feet on one side was
erected a sloping stage as a starting-point. Mounting
on this, one of the boys with a string drew the hoop
towards him, and making a spring into it, away he
went. Other lads were ready, who successively sprung
upon the ring or seized the rope, until there were

TIIE REJANQ.

five or six in a cluster, shouting, laughing, yell in »•

7 O' O O 7 J o

and swinging. For the younger children smaller ones
were erected, as it required courage and skill to play
on the larger.

The Iicjang is one of the finest rivers in Borneo,
and extends far into the interior. We ascended it up-
wards of one hundred miles, and never had less than
four fathoms. Mr. Steel, who lived many years at
the Ivanowit fort, told me that it continued navigable
for about forty miles farther, then there were danger-
ous rapids, but above them the water again deepened.
The Iicjang has many mouths, but the principal are
the one we entered, and another to the eastward of
Cape Sirik, called Egan. Its tributaries below the
rapids are the Sirikei, the Ivanowit, and the Katibas,
the last two very populous.

Above the junction, the liejang is about a mile and
a half broad, with islets scattered over it, but after-
wards it contracts to about a thousand yards, and has
a fine appearance. The scenery here is not varied by
hill or dale ; the land is lowjibut the banks were ren-
dered interesting by the varied tints of the jungle ;
blossoms and young leaves were bursting out in every
variety of colour, from the faintest green to the
darkest brown.

During our passage up we had an instance of the
insecurity to which the head-hunters formerly reduced

THE SEA DA YAKS.

this country. We landed at a place called Munggu
Ayer (water hill) to bathe; a party of our men in-
sisted on keeping watch over us, as many people had
lost their lives here. Being a good spot to procure
water, boats arc accustomed to take in their supplies
at this well, and the Dayaks lurked in the neighbour-
ing jungle to rush out on the unwary.

Anchored opposite the entrance of the Kanowit,
where it was intended to build a fort to stop the
exit of the fleets of Dayak boats that used to
descend this river to attack the people of the Sago
countries. Leaving1 the force thus engaged, I went
and took up my residence in the village of the
Kanowit Dayaks, built opposite the entrance of that
stream. The Rejang is here about 600 or 700 yards
broad.

The village consisted of two long houses, one
measuring 200 feet, the other 4/5. They were built
on posts about forty feet in height and some eighteen
inches in diameter. The reason they give for making
their posts so thick is this : that when the Kayans
attack a village they drag one of their long tamuis or
war boats ashore, and, turning it over, use it as a
monstrous shield. About fifty bear it on their heads
till they arrive at the ill-made palisades that surround
the hamlets, which they have little difficulty in demo-
lishing; they then get under the house, and endea-
vour to cut away the posts, being well protected from
the villagers above by their extemporized shield. If
the posts arc thin, the assailants quickly gain the
victory ; if very thick, it gives the garrison time to
defeat them by allowing heavy beams and stones to
fall upon the boat, and even to bring their little brass

THE KANO WIT DA YAKS. •

wall pieces to bear upon it ; the Kayans will fly if
they suffer a slight loss.

The Kanowit Dayaks are a very different people
from those who live on the river of the same name ;
the latter are all immigrants from the Seribas and
Sakarang. The appearance of these people is very
inferior ; fewT of them have the tine healthy look of
those I sawr about Mr. Brereton’s fort ; the women are
remarkably plain, and scarcely possess what is so
common in Borneo, a bright pair of eyes ; ophthalmia
is very prevalent among them, partly caused by their
extracting their eyelashes. They have another custom
which is equally inelegant ; they draw down the lobes
of their ears to their shoulders, by means of heavy
lead carings.

Some of the men are curiously tatooed ; a kind of
pattern covers their breast and shoulders, and some-
times extends to their knees, having much the
appearance of scale-armour. Others have their chins
ornamented to resemble beards, an appendage denied
them by nature.

I have never before entered a village without
noticing some interesting children, but I observed
none here ; though active enough, they looked un-
healthy and dirty.

Belabun, the chief of this tribe, has had, from his
position, a very extensive intercourse with men, parti-
cularly with the Kayans, who inhabit the upper
portion of the river. One of our objects in visiting
the country was to proceed to the interior to make
friends with the numerous Kayan chiefs who live
there ; but the small-pox had, unfortunately, broken
out among them, and the ascent of the river was for-

THE SEA DAYAKS.

bidden, and all had fled into the forest. I much
regretted this, as I never had another opportunity of
ascending the Rejang. I will not introduce here the
information we collected concerning the Kayans, as I
intend giving an account of the visit I made sliortlv
after to a branch of those people who lived on the
Baram.

It is singular how the story of the men with tails
has spread. I have heard of it in every part I have
visited, but their country is always a few days’ journey
farther off. The most circumstantial account I ever had
was from a man who had traded much on the north-
east coast of Borneo. He said he had seen and felt
the tails, they were four inches long, and were very
stiff, so that all the people sat on seats in which there
was a hole made for this remarkable appendage to
fit in.

Sherif Musahor, a chief of Arab descent, and one
of the most violent men that ever tormented these
countries, arriving from Siriki, came in to see us ; ho
is a very heavy -looking fellow ; at one time we were
great friends, as we were equally fond of chess. It is
not my object to enter into political affairs, but I may
mention that having instigated the murder of two
Englishmen he fled north, and after a variety of ad-
ventures found himself in 1861 at the bead of a band
of desperadoes at a place called Muka. Sir James
Brooke had often been reported dead, and on his
arrival at Sarawak the news spread like wildfire along
the coast. Sherif Musahor, greatly disturbed, called
before him a Madras trader and asked him, “Did
you see the Rajah? ’

“ Yes.”

EFFECT OF BATHING IN THE NILE.

“Had lie all his teeth perfect?”

“ Yes.”

“ Ah, you lie ! when 1 saw him last he had a front
tooth knocked out.”

The Madras man saw the fiery look of this de-
sperate chief, but without losing’ his presence of mind
for a moment, answered, “ What, have you not heard
that the Rajah bathed in the waters of the Nile, and
that it has restored his youth again ?”

Ilis reply was satisfactory to all the Mahomedans
present, who believe implicitly in every wonder told
in the Arabian Nights.

One afternoon, it being a very warm day, we were
reclining on our mats, when a burst of wailing and

O 1 O

howling around us told that bad news had been
received. One of the chief’s brothers had returned
from the interior and brought the following intel-
ligence : It appeared that about two years and a half
ago, a younger brother longing to see the world, had
started off to the sources of the Kapuas river, which
ultimately falls into the sea at Pontianah, a Dutch
settlement, taking with him thirteen young men ; lie
travelled on till lie reached a Kayan tribe with whom
his people were friends, and stayed with them for a
few7 months. One day their hosts started on a head-
hunting expedition, and invited seven of their guests
to accompany them : the latter never returned, having-
all been killed by the Kayans themselves. Why or
wherefore it is impossible to tell, but it is supposed
that having failed in their head-hunt, and being
ashamed to return to their women without these
trophies, they had fallen upon their guests. Their
remaining companions being in a neighbouring vil-

THE SEA DAYAICS.

lagc escaped. Belabun, anxious to have news of his
brother, bad sent the one who bad just returned to
look for him. lie patiently tracked him, but meeting
with the seven survivors, he learnt the fate of his
brother ; they returned overland, but the young chief,
impatient to reach home, made a bark canoe, in which
he reached the village.

It may appear incredible that even the wildest
people should commit so treacherous a deed, but
before the Kanowit was well guarded, a Sakarang
chief from the interior, named Buali Baya, passed with
fifty war boats and pulled up the Rejang. Arriving
at a village of Pakatan Dayaks, his allies, he took
the men as his guides to attack some Punans, who,
however, escaped ; mortified at this result he killed
the guides, and on his return carried off all the
women and children as captives. This was the chief
who refused to enter an English church, saying “ an
old man might die through entering the white men’s
tabernacle.” lie would or could give no explanation
of this observation.

These Kanowits follow the Millanau custom of
sending much of a dead man’s property adrift in a
frail canoe on the river : they talk of all his pro-
perty, but this is confined to talk.

We heard so much of the deceased chief’s goods,
which were to be thrown away, as it is considered
they belong to the departed and not to those who

CUSTOMS ON THE DEATH OF A RELATIVE.

remain, that we went to the place where they lay.
We found a sort of four-sided bier erected, covered
with various coloured cloths, and within it his bride
widow lay moaning and wailing, surrounded by his
favourite arms, his gongs, his ornaments, and all that
he considered valuable. Among his treasures was
the handle of a kris, representing the figure of Budha
in the usual sitting posture, which they said had
descended to them from their ancestors.

As I expected, these valuables were not sent adrift,
but merely a few old things, that even sacrilegious
strangers would scarcely think worth plundering.

A short time before the Rcjang came under Sir
James Brooke’s sway, a relation of Belabun died.
Having no enemy near, he looked about for a victim.
Seeing a Dayak of the Katibas passing down the
river, he and a small party followed and overtook him
just as he reached the junction; they persuaded him
to come ashore, and then seized and killed him,
taking his head home in triumph. As this murder
took place before Sir James Brooke’s jurisdiction
extended over the country, it was difficult to bring
him to account, but on the relations coming to
demand satisfaction, Captain Brooke insisted upon
his paying the customary fine, which satisfied the
Katibas.

The second chief of this village is Sikalei, who,
when one of his children died, sallied out and killed
the first man lie met — they say it was one of his own
tribe, but it was the custom to kill the first person,
even if it were a brother : fortunately they now are
brought under a Government which is strong enough
to prevent such practices.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

They are a very curious people ; the men dress as
Dayaks, the women as Malays ; and the latter part
their hair in the middle, while all the other races
draw it back from the forehead. They appear to be
much influenced in their customs by the surrounding
people ; the men tatoo like Kayans, the women
not.

W e saw a very curious war-dance ; two men, one
of a Rejang tribe, the other from a distant river,
commenced a sham fight, with sword and shield ; one
of them was dressed as a Malay, the other as a
Dayak. With slow side movements of their arms and
leg's, advancing and retreating, cutting and guarding
to a measured step, and in regular time ; then they
changed to quick movements, stooping low till the
shield completely covered them : with a hopping,
dancing motion they kept giving and receiving blows
till one of them fled ; the other immediately followed,
but cautiously, as the fugitive was supposed to plant
spikes in the path. At last they again met, and after
a fierce combat one was slain, and the victor with a
slow dancing step approached the body and was
supposed to cut off the head of his enemy ; but, on
looking at it attentively, he found lie had killed a
friend, and showed signs of much grief. With a
measured tread, he again drew near the body and
pretended to restore the head ; he retired and ad-
vanced several times, shaking the various limbs of
the friend’s body, when the slain sprang up as lively
as ever, and the two wound up by a frantic dance.

I liavc mentioned the ceremonies that took place
at the solemnization of peace between the Sakarangs
and Balaus ; here they were slightly different. A pig

WILD TRIBES.

was placed between the representatives of two tribes,
who, after calling down the vengeance of tbe spirits
on those who broke the treaty, plunged their spears
into the animal, and then exchanged weapons. Draw-
ing their krises, they each bit tbe blade of tbe other’s,
and so completed the affair. The sturdy chief of
Kajulo declared he considered his word as more
binding than any such ceremony.

In the neighbourhood of the Kanowit, and scattered
about these countries, arc the wandering tribes of
Pakatan and Punan, which seldom build regular
houses, but prefer running up temporary huts, and
when they have exhausted the jungle around of wild
beasts and other food, they move to a new spot.
They are the great collectors of wax, edible birds’
nests, camphor and rattans. They are popularly said
to be fairer than the other inhabitants of Borneo, as
they arc never exposed to the sun, living in tbe
thickest part of the old forest. Those we have seen
were certainly darker, but they themselves assert that
their women are fairer. It is probable that exposure to
the air has as much effect upon them as exposure to
the sun. I have often met with their little huts in
the forest and used them as night lodgings, but I
have never come across these wild tribes. I have
seen individual men, but never communities.

The Pakatans and Punans are the true manufac-
turers of the Sumpitan, or blow-pipe; and in their
hands it is a formidable weapon. It is curious to
examine this product of their skill ; and we cannot
but admire the accuracy with which the hole is
drilled through a hard wood shaft some seven or
eight feet long.

THE SEA DAYAKS.

I had often heard of the deadly effect of the poison
into which the arrow was dipped, hut always dis-
believed the hulk of the native stories, though I must
believe in the evidence we have lately had. In 1859,
the Kanowit tribe, instigated by Sherif Musahor,
murdered two English gentlemen, and then fled into
the interior. Mr. Johnson, who led the attack on
them, tells me he lost thirty men by wounds from the
poisoned arrows. He found the bodies of Dayaks
who had gone out as skirmishers without a mark,
beyond the simple puncture where a drop of blood
rested on the wound. One man was struck near
him ; he instantly had the arrow extracted, the wound
sucked, a glass of brandy administered, and the
patient sent off to the boats about four miles distant.
Two companions supported him, and they had strict
orders not to allow him to sleep till he reached the
landing-place : they made him keep awake, and he
recovered. As it is common to destroy deer, wild
boars and other creatures with these arrows, no doubt
man also can be killed.

I will now give an account of the manners and
customs of the Sea Dayaks.

CHAPTER II.

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

Ceremonies at the Birth of a Child — Infanticide — Desire for
Children — A Talkative and Sociable People — Great Concord in
Families — Method of Settling Disputes — Marriage Ceremonies
— Pride of Birth — Chastity — Punishment of Indiscreet Lovers
— Bundling and Company-keeping — Love — Anecdotes — Sepa-
rations— Division of Household Duties — Flirting — Divorce
— Burials — Religion — Belief in a Supreme Being — Good and
Evil Spirits — The Small-pox — Priests — Some Dress as Women
— Mourning — Sacrifices — Human Sacrifices — Unlucky Omens
— Reconciliation — Belief in a Future State — The other World
— Dayaks Litigious — Head-feast — Head-hunting — Its Origin —
Horrible Revenge — Small Inland Expeditions — Cat-like War-
fare— Atrocious Case — Large Inland Expeditions — War-boats —
Edible Clay — Necessity for a Head — Dayaks very Intelligent —
Slaves — Objections to Eating certain Animals, or Killing
others — Change of Names — Degrees of Affinity* within which
Marriages may take place — Sickness — Cholera — Manufactures
— Agriculture — Method of taking Bees’ Nests — Lying Heaps —
Passports — Ordeals — Language.

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

over the babe, and moves about the house chanting
monotonous tunes. The festival lasts a day and a
night. The Dayak women suffer very little at their
confinements, and seldom remain quiet beyond a few
days. They are very anxious to have children, but if
they have a preference, it is for boys ; and when the
only child is a daughter, they often make a vow to
tire guns and give a feast, should the next prove a
son.

It is very singular, that though these Dayaks are
exceedingly fond of their offspring, yet infanticide
sometimes occurs among the Batang Lupars ; arising,
it is said, from a selfish feeling of affection. One
man confessed to Mr. Johnson that he had put an
infant to death, because all the children born to him
previously had died just as they arrived at an age when
lie could fondly love them. lie said lie could not endure
to think that it should occur to him again. But this
must have been a rare instance, since they feel acutely
the loss of their children, and wander about incon-
solable, and mope, and often refuse to work for
months. They do not bear misfortunes well ; even the
loss of houses by fire, or their crops from bad seasons,
disheartens them to an extent that is surprising to
those who have watched the conduct of the Serihas
Dayaks. The piratical pursuits in which these latter
delighted have certainly given great energy to their
character ; and they recover immediately from the
effects of the destruction of their villages and of their
property, and set to work to create more wealth.

The Sea Dayaks, as I have observed, generally pre-
fer male children ; and the more mischievous and
boisterous they are when young the greater the

THE DAYAKS A SOCIABLE PEOPLE.

delight they afford their parents. The observation,
“ He is very wicked,” is the greatest praise. They
indulge them in everything, and at home give way to
their caprices in an extraordinary manner. If the
parents are affectionate to their children, the latter
warmly return it. Instances have even occurred
when, oppressed by sorrow at the reproaches of a
father, a child has privately taken poison and de-
stroyed himself.

Like other tribes in the same state of civilization,
the Dayaks are fond of oratory; and while the elders
arc discoursing or delivering long speeches, the young
lads look gravely on, never indulging in a laugh,
which would be regarded as a serious offence.

The Dayaks arc a very sociable people, and love to
have their families around them ; grandfathers spoil
their grandchildren ; and during the heavy work of the
harvest, the very old ones stay at home surrounded
by merry groups of young ones.

Strangers are generally very welcome ; and it would
be an annoying idea to enter into their heads that
they were considered either mean or inhospitable. So
the wayfarer is presented on his arrival with the best
food in the house. Occasionally it is not very wel-
come to a European, as it too often consists of fish
that emits a very high scent, or eggs of a very ancient
date ; but there is generally some fruit, or a little
clean boiled rice. I was once presented with some
preserved durian fruit, which stank so fearfully as to
drive my friends completely out of the house. But
the greatest luxury that can be presented to a native
is always forthcoming, and that is the box of arcca
nuts, and the other chewing condiments.

VOL. i.

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

Parents and children, brothers and sisters, very
seldom quarrel ; when they do so, it is from having
married into a family with whom afterwards they may
have disputes about land. One would imagine that
was a subject not likely to create dissensions in a
country like Borneo ; hut there are favourite farming
grounds and boundaries are not very settled. It
used to be the practice not to have recourse to
arms on those occasions, but the two parties collecting
their relatives and friends would fight with sticks for
the coveted spot. Now, however, their disputes are
brought to their chiefs, or the nearest English officer.

Marriage. — Among the Sibuyau Dayaks of Lundu,
no ceremony attends a betrothement, but when
the consent of the parents of the bride has been
obtained, an early day is appointed for the marriage.
As a general rule, the husband follows the wife, that
is, lives with and works for the parents of the latter.
On the wedding day, the bride and bridegroom are
brought from opposite ends of the village to the spot
where the ceremony is to he performed. They are
made to sit on two bars of iron, that blessings as
lasting, and health as vigorous, as the metal may
attend the pair. A cigar and betel leaf prepared with
the areca nut arc next put into the hands of the bride
and bridegroom. One of the priests then waves two
fowls over the heads of the couple, and in a long ad-
dress to the Supreme Being, calls down blessings upon
the pair, and implores that peace and happiness may
attend the union. After the heads of the affianced have
been knocked against each other three or four times,
the bridegroom puts the prepared siri leaf and the cigar
into the mouth of the bride, while she does the same

MARRIAGE CEREMONIES.

to him, whom she thus acknowledges as her husband.
The fowls arc then killed, and the blood caught in
two cups, and from its colour the priest foretels the
future happiness or misery of the newly married.
The ceremony is closed by a feast, with dancing and
noisy music.

It is worthy of remark that the respect paid by a
son-in-law to the father of his wife is greater than
that paid to his own father. lie treats him with
much ceremony, must never pronounce his name, nor
must lie take the liberty of eating off the same plate,
or drinking out of the same cup, or even of lying
down on the same mat.

Among the Balaus, or Sea Dayaks of Lingga,
there is also no ceremony at a betrothement ; in fact,
Mr. Chambers informs me that the word is not
known in their language. Indeed their manners pre-
clude the necessity of any such formal arrangement.

Marriage itself is a very simple affair, and is not
accompanied by any long rite. However, as it is
different from that practised in Lundu, I will enter
into particulars.

Two or three days previous to the ceremony, the
mother of the bridegroom usually gives the bride’s
relations a plate or a basin. The wedding takes
place at the house of the girl, and "the rite is called
blah pinang, or the splitting of the prepared areca
nut. It is divided into three portions, and the mother,
after placing them in a little basket, and covering
them over with a red cloth, sets them on a raised
altar in front of the bride’s house. The respective
friends of the families then meet in conclave and
enjoy the native luxury of prepared areca nut ;

4—2

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

and it is now determined wliat shall he the fine paid
in case the husband should separate from his wife
after she shall he declared pregnant, or after she has
borne a child. This is a very necessary precaution,
as I shall have presently to show.

I may notice that among these Dayaks there is great
pride of birth, and that parents will seldom consent
to their daughter’s marrying a man of very inferior
condition. Many lamentable occurrences have arisen
from this, among other causes, which I will mention
when treating of love. As a general rule, if the
bride be an only daughter, or of higher rank, the
husband joins her family — if he he of higher rank, or
an only son, she follows him, and then she is conducted
under a canopy of red cloth to the house of his
parents. If they should be of equal condition and
similarly circumstanced, they divide their time among
their respective families, until they set up house-
keeping on their own account.

There are three subjects of which I must now
treat, — and they arc the chastity of the women, love,
and divorce. I find it difficult to reconcile the state-
ments that I have to make ; they arc modest, and vet
unchaste, love warmly and yet divorce easily, but are
generally faithful to their husbands when married.

In looking over the notes I have collected, both of
my own and those that I have received from my
friends, I find them apparently irreconcilable ; but I
will endeavour to make them intelligible.

The Sibuyaus, though they do not consider the
sexual intercourse of their young people as a positive
crime, yet arc careful of the honour of their daugh-
ters, as they attach an idea of great indecency to pro-

DAYAK CHASTITY.

miscuous connection. They are far advanced beyond
their brethren in this respect, and are of opinion that
an unmarried girl proving with child must be offensive
to the superior powers, who, instead of always chas-
tising the individual, punish the tribe by misfortunes
happening to its members. They, therefore, on the
discovery of the pregnancy tine the lovers, and
sacrifice a pig to propitiate offended Heaven, and
to avert that sickness or those misfortunes that
might otherwise follow ; and they inflict heavy mulcts
for every one who may have suffered from any
severe accident, or who may have been drowned
within a month before the religious atonement was
made ; lighter fines are levied if a person be simply
wounded.

As these pecuniary demands fall upon the families
of both parties, great care is taken of the young girls,
and seldom is it found necessary to sacrifice the pig.
After marriage the women also are generally chaste,
though cases of adultery arc occasionally brought
before the Orang Kayas.

Among the Dayaks on the Batang Lupar, however,
unchastity is more common ; but the favours of the
women are generally confined to their own country-
men, and usually to one lover. Should the girl prove
with child, it is an understanding between them that
they marry, and men seldom, by denying, refuse to
fulfil their engagements. Should, however, the girl
he unable to name the father, she is exposed to the
reproaches of her relatives, and many to escape them
have taken poison. In respectable families they sacri-
fice a pig, and sprinkle the doors with its blood, to
wash away the sin ; and the erring maiden’s position

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

is rendered so uncomfortable that she generally tries
to get away from home.

In the account of the Land Dayaks, I will mention
the manner in which the young lover approaches the
curtains of his mistress. As this seldom ends in im-
morality, it may he likened to the Welch and Af-
ghan bundling. The Sea Dayaks have the same
practice of seeking the girls at night ; and as the
favoured lover is seldom refused entrance to the
curtains, it may he compared to the system of com-
pany-keeping which obtains in many of our agricul-
tural counties, where the hrides have children a
couple of months after marriage. The morality of
the Sea Dayaks is, perhaps, superior to the Malays,
hut inferior to that of the Land Dayaks.

During one of my visits to the Sakarang I heard
a story which is rather French in its termination. A
young man proposed to a girl and was accepted by
her, hut her parents refused to give their consent, as
he was of very inferior birth. Every means was tried
to soften their hearts, hut they were obstinate, and
endeavoured to induce her to give up her lover and
marry another. In their despair the lovers retired to
the jungle, and swallowed the poisonous juice of the
tuha plant : next morning they were found dead, with
their cold and stiff arms entwined round each other.
Cases are not of very rare occurrence among the
Sakarang Dayaks, where disappointed love has sought
solace in the grave.

Of the warmth of married affection, I have never
heard a more striking instance than the following : —
the story has been told before, hut it is worth repeat-
ing. Ijau, a Balau chief, was bathing with his wife

LOVE ANECDOTES.

in the Lingga river, a place notorious for man-eating
alligators, when Indra Lela, a Malay, passing in a
boat remarked, — “I have just seen a very large
animal swimming up the stream.” Upon hearing
this, I jau told his wife to go up the steps and he
would follow; she got safely up, but lie, stopping to
wash his feet, was seized by the alligator, dragged
into the middle of the stream, and disappeared from
view. Ilis wife hearing a cry turned round, and
seeing her husband’s fate sprang into the river,
shrieking, — “ Take me also,” and dived down at the
spot where she had seen the alligator sink with his
prey. No persuasion could induce her to come out
of the water : she swam about, diving in all the
places most dreaded from being a resort of ferocious
reptiles, seeking to die with her husband; at last her
friends came down and forcibly removed her to their
house.

About two miles below the town of Kuchina-, is a
place called Tanah Putih. Here a man and his wTife
were working in a small canoe, when an alligator
seized the latter by the thigh and bore her along the
surface of the water, calling for that help, which her
husband swimming after, in vain endeavoured to
afford. The bold fellow with a kris in his mouth
neared the reptile, but as soon as he was heard, the
beast sank with his shrieking prey and ended a scene
almost too painful for description. Two days after-
wards the body, unmangled, was found hidden in some
bushes, which partly confirms my previous remark,
that alligators do not immediately swallow their
prey.

Husbands and wives appear to pass their lives very

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

agreeably together, which may partly be caused by
the facility of divorce. Many men and women have
been married seven or eight times before they find the
partner with whom they desire to spend the rest of
their lives. I saw a young girl of seventeen who had
already had three husbands. These divorces take
place at varied times, from a few days after marriage,
to one or two years. However, after the birth of a
child, they seldom seek to separate, and if they do
the husband is fined, but not the wife. The work of
the family is divided, though perhaps the female has
most continued labour. The man builds and repairs
the houses and boats, fells all the heavy timber at the
farm, brings home the firewood, and very often nurses
the baby. The wives are very domestic, and in their
way carefully attend to household duties ; they cook,
clean the rice, feed the pigs and poultry, spin the
yarn, weave the cloth, and make the clothes. A wife
is also expected to be polite to visitors, to bring out
her finest mats, and offer the interminable areca nut
to her guests.

As the wife works hard, she is generally very
strong and capable of taking her own part. She is
very jealous of her husband, much more so than lie is
of her. If he be found flirting with another woman,
the wife may inflict a severe thrashing on her, but
only with sticks, while if the offending woman have a
husband, lie may do the same to the man. To
escape these domestic broils, lie generally starts off
into the jungle, and pretends to or really does go
head-hunting.

The causes of divorce arc innumerable, but incom-
patibility of temper is perhaps the most common ;

BURIALS.

when they are tired of each other they do not say so,
hut put the fault upon an unfavourable omen or a bad
dream, either of which is allowed to be a legitimate
cause of divorce. Should they, however, be still fond
of each other, the sacrifice of a pig will effectually
prevent any misfortune happening to them from
neglecting to separate. Partners often divorce from
pique, or from a petty quarrel, and are then allowed
to come together again without any fresh marriage
ceremony. Among the Balau Dayaks, it is necessary
for the offended husband to send a ring to his wife,
before the marriage can be considered as finally dis-
solved, without which, should they marry again,
they would be liable to be punished for infidelity.

I may add, that as the wife docs an equal share of
work with her husband, at a divorce she is entitled to
half the wealth created by their mutual labours.

Burials. — Among the Sea Dayaks, corpses arc
usually buried; although, should a man express a wish
to share the privilege of the priests and be, like them,
exposed on a raised platform, the relations are bound
to comply with this request.

Immediately the breath has left the body, the
female relations commence loud and melancholy
laments ; they wash the corpse, and dress it in its
finest garments, and often, if a man, fully armed, and
bear it forth to the great common hall, where it is
surrounded by its friends to be mourned over. In
some villages a hireling leads the lament, which is
continued till the corpse leaves the house. Before
this takes place, however, the body is rolled up in
cloths and fine mats, kept together by pieces of
bamboo tied on with rattans, and taken to the burial-

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

ground. A fowl is then killed as a sacrifice to the

spirit who guards the earth, and they commence
digging the grave from two and a half to four and a
half feet deep, according to the person’s rank ; deeper
than five feet would he unlawful. Whilst this opera-
tion is going on, others fell a large tree, and cutting-
off about six feet, split it in two, and then hollow
them out with an adze. One part serves as the coffin,
the other as the lid ; the body is placed within, and
the two are secured together by means of strips of
pliable canes bound round them.

After the coffin is lowered into the grave, many
things belonging to the deceased are cast in, together
with rice, tobacco, and betel nut, as they believe they
may prove useful in the other world, or as it is called
by them Sabayan.

It was an old custom, hut now perhaps falling
somewhat into disuse, to place money, gold and silver
ornaments, clothes, and various china and brass
utensils in the grave; but these treasures were too
great temptations to those Malays who were addicted
to gambling; and the rifling of the place of interment
has often given great and deserved offence to the
relations. As it is almost impossible to discover the
offenders, it is now the practice to break in pieces all
the utensils placed in the grave, and to conceal as
carefully as possible the valuable ornaments. The
whole tribe of the Lundu Sibuyaus was thrown into
a great state of excited indignation on finding that
some Malays had opened the place of interment of the
old Orang Kaya Tumanggong of Lundu, and stolen
the valuable property. This was the chief who
was so firm a friend of the Europeans, and whose

BELIEF IN A SUPREME BEING. 59

name is so often mentioned in former works on
Borneo.

The relatives and bearers of the corpse must
return direct to the house from which they started
before entering another, as it is unlawful or unlucky
to stop, whatever may be the distance to be traversed.

They arc often very particular about the dress in
which they are to be buried. Many of the old
Sakarang women have asked Mr. Johnson for hand-
some jackets to be used after their death for this
purpose, saying that when they arrived in the other
world, they would, mention his name with respect and
gratitude on account of the kindness shown to them
in this.

The Dayaks who have fallen in battle are seldom
interred, but a paling is put round them to keep
away the pigs, and they are left there. Those who
commit suicide are buried in different places from
others, as it is supposed that they will not be allowed
to mix in the seven-storied Sabayan with such of
their fellow-countrymen as come by their death in a
natural manner or from the influences of the spirits.

It is very satisfactory to be able to state that the
Sea Dayaks have a clear idea of one Omnipotent
Being who created and now rules over the world.
They call him Batara ; beneath him arc many good
and innumerable bad spirits, and the fear of the
latter causes them to make greater offerings to them
than to the good spirits. The awe with which many
of them are named has induced a few, among others,
Mr. Chambers, to imagine that their religion is a
species of polytheism. But that is, I think, clearly
a mistake : as well might a Mahomedan declare that

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

Christians were Polytheists, because Roman Catholics
believe in the interposition of the Virgin and of the
saints, and because members of all sects fear the wiles
of Satan. It is a common saying among the Dayaks,
With “ God’s blessing we shall have a good harvest
next year.”

Mr. Gomez, who has lived nine years among the
Sibuyaus, and Mr. Johnson, who lias mixed with all
sections of the Sea Dayaks still longer, take my
view. There are evil spirits of various kinds who
reside in the jungles, or the mountains, or the earth:
all sicknesses, misfortunes, or death, proceed from
them, while to Batara is attributed every blessing.

But when they make offerings, both are propitiated,
and, as usual, the wicked have the larger share.
The priests offer a long prayer, and supplicate them
to depart from the afflicted house, or from the sick
man. Of the seven platefuls of food, four are given
to the evil spirits, and cast forth or exposed in the
forests, while the others are offered to the good spirits,
who arc implored to protect and bless them. The
food offered to the latter is not considered to be inter-
dicted, but may be, and is always, eaten.

The Lingga Dayaks, besides Batara, have various
good spirits — as Stampandei, who superintends the
propagation of mankind ; Pulang Ganah, who inhabits
the earth and gives fertility to it, and to him arc
addressed the offerings at the feasts given whilst
preparing the rice cultivation ; Singallong Burong, the
god of war, excites their utmost reverence, and to
him are offered the head feasts. On those occasions,
he comes down and hovers in the form of a kite over
the house, and guns arc fired and gongs are beaten

GOOD AND EVIL SPIRITS.

in his honour : his brave followers married to his
daughters appear in the form of their omen birds.
No wonder he is honoured : he gives success in war,
and delights in their acquisition of the heads of their
enemies. Nattiang inhabits the summits of the hills,
and is one of their demigods. The Linggas tell
many stories of his exploits : the most famous was
his expedition to the skies to recover his wife, who
had been caught in a noose and hoisted up there
by his old enemy, Apei Sabit Berkait. To dream of
him is to receive the gift of bravery. Air. Chambers
would add much to our knowledge of these people
if lie would make a collection of their stories and
ballads.

Among the Sakarangs the belief in one Supreme
Being is clear, and they do not appear to have any
inferior deities who approach him in attributes : they
have demigods, good and bad spirits, hut no sharer
of God’s throne. They believe that the good and
bad spirits have the power to prevent, or to enable
them to succeed in any object they may have in view.
They, therefore, make offerings to them, particularly
when any of their family arc suffering from illness.

When the small-pox was committing sad havoc
among those villagers who would not allow themselves
to be inoculated, they ran into the jungle in every
direction, caring for no one but themselves, leaving
the houses empty, and dwelling far away in the most
silent spots, in parties of two and three, and sheltered
only by a fewT leaves. When these calamities come
upon them, they utterly lose all command over them-
selves, and become as most timid children. Those
seized with the complaint are abandoned : all they

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

do is to take care that a bundle of firewood, a
cooking-pot, and some rice, are placed within their
reach. On account of this practice, few recover, as
in the delirium they roll on the ground and die.

When the fugitives become short of provisions, a
few of the old men who have already had the com-
plaint creep hack to the houses at night and take a
supply of rice. In the daytime they do not dare to
stir or to speak above a whisper for fear the spirits
should see or hear them. They do not call the
small-pox by its name, hut are in the habit of saying,
“ Has he yet left you?” at other times, they call it
jungle leaves or fruit; and at other places the datu
or the chief. Those tribes who inoculate suffer very
little.

Their priests frequently use the names of the
invisible spirits, and are supposed to be able to
interpret their language, as well as to hold com-
munion with them ; and in ordinary times they
pretend to work the cure of the sick by means of
incantations, and after blinding the patient’s eyes,
pretend by the aid of the spirits to draw the bones
of fish or fowls out of their flesh. When the Dayaks
are questioned as to their belief in these easily-
exposed deceits, they say no ; hut the custom has
descended to them from their ancestors, and they still
pay these priests heavy sums to perform the ancient
rites.

Though these priests are of course men, yet some
pretend to he women, or rather dress as such, and
like to he treated as females. In Lingga, however,
out of thirty, only one has given up man’s attire.
Many of the priests arc the blind and maimed for

SACRIFICES.

life, who by following this profession arc enabled to
earn a livelihood.

If a Dayak lose his wife, he gives a feast, which is
really an offering to the departed spirit. After the
death of relatives, they seek for the heads of enemies,
and until one is brought in they consider themselves
to be in mourning, wearing no fine clothes, striking no
tone's, nor is laughing or merry-making in the house
allowed ; but they have a steady desire to grieve for the
one lost to them, and to seek a head of an enemy, as a
means of consoling themselves for the death of the
departed.

At the launching of a new boat, preparatory to
head-hunting, the spirits presiding over it are appeased
and fed, and the women collect in and about it, and
chant monotonous tunes ; invoking the heavenly spirits
to grant their lovers and husbands success in finding
heads, by which they may remove their mourning and
obtain a plentiful supply of the luxuries and neces-
saries of life.

The principal sacrifice of the Sakarang Dayaks is
killing a pig and examining its heart, which is
supposed to foretel events with the utmost certainty.
As an instance : should they find a dead animal on
land prepared for a farm, according to their esta-
blished custom, they should give it up, and commence
a new one ; but if the season for burning the jungle be
passed, they endeavour to avert this loss by consult-
ing the heart of a pig. The animal is sacrificed, and
the greatest attention is given to the signs discovered
upon his heart : if they be satisfactory, the farm land
may be used ; if not, it is completely abandoned.

After their great head feasts, they also examine

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

the hearts of pigs, and their gray-headed leaders
surround and look extremely grave over the bleeding
spectacle which they one by one turn over with the
point of a stick to examine the run and position of
the veins ; each as he does it offers some sapient
remark ; and the result generally is, that there are
still numerous enemies, but far away : but however
powerful these may be, they themselves arc more
powerful, and in the end will overcome them.

Not many years ago, llentap, the pirate chief, who
formerly resided in a stronghold on the summit of the
Sadok mountain, took a Sakarang lad prisoner.
Although one of his own race, lie determined on
putting him to death, remarking — “ It has been our
custom heretofore to examine the heart of a pig, hut
now we will examine a human one.” The unfortunate
boy was dragged about for some time by the hair
of his head, and then put to death and his heart
examined.

It is reported that many years ago a Sibuyau chief
sacrificed some prisoners on the graves of two of his
sons, who, in the same expedition, had been killed by
his enemies.

To hear the cry of a deer is at all times considered
unlucky ; and to prevent the sound reaching their
cars during a marriage procession gongs and drums
arc loudly beaten. On the way to their farms,
should the unlucky omen be heard, they will return
home and do no work for a day.

It is a very curious custom also, that if two men
who have been at deadly feud, meet in a house, they
refuse to cast their eyes upon each other till a fowl has
been killed and the blood sprinkled over them ; and,

HEAD FEAST.

as already fully described, when two tribes make
peace, after solemn engagements are concluded, a pig
is killed, the blood of which is supposed to cement the
bond of friendship.

They believe in a future state — considering that
the Simangat, or spiritual part of man, lives for ever,
that they awake shortly after death in Sabayan or the
future abode, and that there they find those of their
relatives and friends who have departed before them.
The Sibuyaus divide their Sabayan into seven dis-
tinct stories, which are occupied by the souls of the
departed according to their rank and position in life.
The really wicked occupy the lowest ; but, whether
happy or miserable, they acknowledge ignorance.

The Dayaks are very litigious, and few would have
the patience to investigate one of their cases. The
amateur lawyers of a tribe arc acute in inquiry,
quick in making retorts, and gifted with wonderful
memories, generally referring to precedents of the
customs of their forefathers in the settlement of fresh
cases.

A head feast consists in a general meeting of the
tribe in the man’s house who gives the entertainment,
lie prepares for it two or three months before it
takes place, collecting fish, fowls, eggs, plantains, and
other fruits, and in manufacturing an intoxicating
drink from rice. When all these things arc ready,
poles are cut of various lengths, one for each of
the heads that may be there to be rejoiced over ;
there are also fantastically - shaped wooden birds,
which undergo various evolutions in the house ; and,
after the feast is over, arc placed on the top of
the before-mentioned poles, with their heads turned

VOL. i.

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

in the direction of the enemies’ country. The
people, dressed in their best clothes, collect in the
house, and commence the feast bv all the youthful
portion of the community engaging in cock-fighting
— real cock-fights, too often with very formidable
steel spurs. They are very partial to this amusement,
and will go far and pay much for a good bird, and
will bet heavily on a well-known cock.

After some hours engaged in this amusement, they
commence drinking and eating, a part of the cere-
mony which does not entice the European stranger,
nor can the peculiar smell increase his appetite. It
is an extraordinary accumulation of food : fowls

roasted with their feathers on, and then torn joint
from joint; eggs black from age, decayed fruit, rice of
all colours and kinds, strong-smelling fish, almost
approaching a state of rottenness ; and their drink
having the appearance and the thickness of curds,
in which they mix pepper and other ingredients. It
has a sickening effect upon them, and they swallow it
more as a duty than because they relish it. Before
they have added any extraneous matter it is not
unpleasant, having something of the taste of spruce
beer.

They have then several processions, each headed
by chiefs marching with grave countenances, and
followed by a youthful crowd. Their movements are
not graceful while parading about a house, as they put
their bodies into the stiffest postures. The women
also, adorned with trappings and beads of every colour,
walk up and down, scattering yellow rice about the
house and on the heads of the men. The feast lasts
three days and nights, and winds up by their becom-

IlEAD-IIUNTING.

mg amicably intoxicated, always excepting tbc women,
who do not drink, but take care of their drunken
husbands and relatives. This feast is intended as an
offering to Batara, on account of their success against
enemies, and as a thanksgiving for a plentiful harvest.
To fail in this testimony of gratitude would be
grievous in their eyes. The Sea Dayaks follow the
custom of Pamali, or taboo, and believe in omens.*

Head-hunting. — This practice has no doubt ob-
tained among the Dayaks from the earliest times,
and when carried on by the interior tribes very few
lives were lost; but it much retarded the progress of
the country, as it rendered life and property insecure.
The Sakarang and Seribas, within the memory of
living men, were a quiet, inoffensive people, paying
taxes to their Malay chiefs, and suffering much from
their oppressive practices, — even their children being
seized and sold into slavery. When the Malay com-
munities quarrelled they summoned their Dayak
followers around them, and led them on expedi-
tions against each other. This accustomed the
aborigines to tbc sea ; and being found hard-working
and willing men, tbc Malays and Lanun pirates took
them out in their marauding expeditions, dividing
the plunder — the heads of the killed for the Dayaks,
the goods and captives for themselves.

Gradually they began to feel their own strength
and superiority of numbers. In their later expedi-
tions the Malays have followed rather than led. The
longing these Dayaks have acquired for head-hunting
is surprising. They say, “ The white men read
books, we hunt for heads instead.” Until the

* See chapters on the “ Social Life of the Land Dayaks.”

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE SEA DAYAKS.

Sarawak Government curbed their proceedings they
were known to coast down as far as Pontianak, and
occasionally they had been met forty miles out at sea
in their rattan-tied boats, some of them seventy feet
in length. In rough weather most of the crew jump
overboard and bold on to the sides while the rest bale
the boat out. They say, when this occurs in places
suspected to be frequented by sharks, they each tie
a bundle of the tuba plant round their ancles to drive
the devouring fish away. The juice of the tuba is
the one used to intoxicate fish.

About thirteen years ago, I heard the Natuna
people give an account of a horrible transaction that
took place in one of their islands. A party of
Seribas Dayaks were cruising about among the little
isles near, and had destroyed several women and many
fishermen, when they were observed, towards evening,
creeping into a deep and narrow inlet to remain
during the night. The islanders quietly assembled
and surprised their enemies, killing all but seven, who
were taken nrisoners — six men and one lad. The

former they roasted over a slow fire, and they
declared that the bold fellows died without uttering a
cry of pain, but defying them to the last ; the lad,
who stood trembling by, uncertain of his fate, was
sent back to tbe coast with a message to his country-
men, that if they ever came there again, they would
be all treated in the same way. This fearful warning
was sufficient to deter their seeking heads again in
that direction.

Parties of two and three sometimes wrent away
for months on an inland incursion, taking nothing
with them but salt wrapped up in their waist-cloths,

HORRIBLE REVENGE.

with which they seasoned the young shoots, and
leaves, and palm cabbages, found in the forests ; and
when they returned home, they were as thin as scare-
crows. It is this kind of cat-like warfare which
causes them to he formidable enemies both to
the Chinese and the Malays, who never feel them-
selves safe from a Davak enemy. They have been
known to keep watch in a well up to their chins
in water, with a covering of a few leaves over their
heads to endeavour to cut off the first person who
might come to draw water. At night they would
drift down on a log, and cut the rattan cable of trad-
ing prahus, while others of their party would keep
watch on the bank, knowing well where the stream
would take the boat ashore; and when aground they
kill the men and plunder the goods.

An atrocious case happened many years ago up the
Batang Lupar, where a young man started on an
expedition by himself to seek for a head from a
neighbouring tribe. In a few days he came back with
the desired prize. Ilis relatives questioned him how
it was he had been away so few days, as they had never
been able to do the same journey in double the time,
lie replied gravely that the spirits of the woods had
assisted him.

About a month afterwards a headless trunk was
discovered near one of their farms, and on inquiry
being made, it was found to be the bodv of an
old woman of their own tribe, not very distantly
related to the young fellow himself. lie was only
fined by the chief of the tribe, and the head taken
from him and buried.

If a large party intended starting under a leader of

SOCIAL LIFE OF TI1E SEA DAYAKS.

any note, they waited till he had first built a hut not
far from the village, and listened for an omen from
the cry of the birds. As soon as a good one wras
heard, they started ; and when a certain distance from
home, stopped and held a consultation, in which they
decided on the mode of attack, and how the heads,
captives, and plunder should he divided. Large
rivers intervening did not deter them, as they could
always build boats, tying them together with rattans,
each being capable of holding about thirty men. On
their return they hid the planks in the jungle, to he
used on a future occasion.

Their war boats are well constructed and good
models, and very fast ; some will hold as many as
sixty or seventy men, with two months’ provisions.
The keel is flat, with a curve or sheer of hard wood.
A long one does not exceed six fathoms, and upon it
tliev will build a boat of eleven fathoms over all.

The extra length of planks, which overlap, is
brought up with a sheer. They caulk the scams
with a bark which is plentiful in the jungle. No
other fastenings hut rattans arc used.

They paint their boats red and white, — the former
is generally an ochre, hut occasionally they use a kind
of red seed pounded ; the white is simply lime, made
from sea shells. In their boat expeditions they
always take a supply of red ochre to eat, in case
of becoming short of other provisions ; and we once
found in some deserted Seribas’ prahus many packets
of a white oleaginous clay used for the same purpose.
The bark they employ for caulking is very tough, and
beaten out, serves to make useful and comfortable
coverlets, as well as waist-cloths and head-dresses.

HEAD-HUNTING.

I have mentioned that the possession of a head
is necessary to enable the Dayaks to leave off mourn-
ing. I once met the Orang Kara Pamancha of
Seribas, the most influential chief in the country.
Pie was dressed in nothing hut a dirty rag round his
loins, and thus he intended to remain until the
mourning for his wife ceased by securing a head.
Until this happens they cannot marry again, or
appease the spirit of the departed, which continues to
haunt the house and make its presence known by
certain ghostly rappings. They endeavour to mollify
its anger by the nearest relative throwing a packet
of rice to it under the house every day, until the spirit
is laid to rest by their being able to celebrate a head
feast: then the Dayaks forget their dead, and the ghosts
of the dead forget them. When passing a burial-ground,
however, they throw on it something they consider
acceptable to the departed.

In writing about head-hunting, I should more
frequently employ the past tense, as all those por-
tions of these tribes, which have been brought under
English influence, are rapidly losing these customs ;
and could any profitable agricultural industry be in-
troduced among them, they would soon expend their
energies in money-making.

The Dayaks are exceedingly quick in commercial
transactions ; and most of them who did not know the
value of a piece of money six years ago arc now active
traders. They are said to be more acute than
Malays, so that even the Chinese find they cannot
cheat them after the first year. They are hoarding,
though liberal according to custom ; but generally
they are much disposed to be avaricious and close-

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DA YAKS.

fisted. The Malays sometimes make good bargains
with them by using soft and flattering language, but
the Dayaks often repent of being so wheedled, and
will claim justice before the courts.

The Sea Dayaks, contrary to ancient custom, have
the habit of keeping a few slaves, and are generally
kind masters ; but the system has been a very
bad one, as many unfortunate people have become so
in consequence of the debts or the crimes of their
parents or grand-parents. It is scarcely right to
give the name of slaves to these people, as on the
payment of the original debt or fine they become
free.

They have no graven images, nor do they practise
any outward or visible signs of idolatry, nor have
they any mode of religious worship further than a
solemn attention to superstitious practices and ob-
servances. Several Dayaks have an objection to eating
the flesh of pigs, deer, and other animals ; but it is
because they arc afraid of getting certain complaints,
as skin diseases, and the custom becomes hereditary,
as many families arc subject to them ; or it arises
from the fear of going mad ; or as some married
women tremble to touch deer’s flesh previously to the
birth of their firstborn; or because they have received
warning in dreams not to touch a particular kind of
food. Their religious opinions do not forbid them to
cat any kind of animals.

The Sea Dayaks, however, would not intentionally
kill a cobra, one species of the lizard, or owls, or any
of their birds of omen. There are, also, certain
animals and other birds which many families abstain
from injuring; in some cases, owing to a dream;

CUSTOMS.

“ o
/ -J

in others, to help traditionally received from them
by an ancestor. In others, it is forbidden to kill
a civet cat, an orang-utan, or an alligator ; and
they give such reasons as the following : — “ One of
my ancestors, a clever man, cured a sick alligator,
and then they made an agreement that neither should
injure the other.” Another said, when his great-
grandfather first settled at the hill of Banting, the
orang-utan abounded there. Their enemies once came
to attack the place, hut were repulsed by the assist-
ance of the orang-utans, who crowded to the edge of
the fruit groves to glare on the strangers, and were
probably mistaken for men. As a reason for not
destroying the cobra, they say, “ It has always been
forbidden, those who dream of them are lucky, and
often do the great spirits put on the forms of
snakes.”

They sometimes change their names after severe
sickness, when their priests recommend it on the
restoration of health. And, also, in the event of a
slave becoming free, his late master gives a feast
upon the occasion of manumitting him, and proclaims
his freedom in public. They often present a spear
upon the occasion, the meaning of which is that, if
he be again claimed as a slave, the spear may be used
to put to death his former master.

It is contrary to custom for a man to marry a first
cousin, as they look upon them as sisters. No mar-
riage is allowed with aunt or niece, and some objec-
tion is made in a few of the communities to a man
marrying a deceased wife’s sister, or a woman taking
her husband’s brother ; but these customs are not
always followed, and I have heard of uncles marrying

J J J O

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

nieces, and a marriage with a deceased wife’s sister is
also permitted, provided her parents approve of the
man ; and it is then often encouraged by them in
order to bring up the children as one family.

Their priests have little or no knowledge of medi-
cine, but trust, in most cases, to their occult sciences.
In ordinary sickness the relatives are attentive, but
not so, as I have said, when there is a sweeping
epidemic, as small-pox ; in such cases they think it
to be useless striving against so formidable a spirit.
When cholera was in the country, the Dayaks lost
comparatively few, as they healed those taken with it
by rubbing and warmth ; but the Malays appeared to
have done everything they should not have done —
drinking, when in health, nothing but hot water,
taking no exercise, and only eating a little rice ; the
consequence was they were too weak to strive against
the complaint when seized. The most successful
system practised by the natives appears to be to rub
the stomach and limbs with cajput oil (kayu putih
oil), and administer a strong dose of spirits imme-
diately the first symptoms are perceived. It is said
a few drops of the oil are also given with success.
When the cholera, after committing great ravages in
the capital, appeared among the Muruts and Bisayas
of Limbang, they all fled from their villages, retiring
to the hills and the depths of the forest ; their loss
was very slight.

The women manufacture a coarse cloth ; making
and dyeing their own yarn, beating out the cotton
with small sticks, and, by means of a spinning-wheel,
running it off* very quickly. The yarn is not so fine
as what they can buy of English manufacture, but it

AGRICULTURAL PURSUITS.

is stronger, and keeps its colour remarkably well ;
and no cloth wears better than Dayak cloth.

Their agricultural pursuits are limited in number,
and with little labour the soil yields sufficient crops
to supply their wants. They plant rice once a year ;
those who live on dry and high land have also cotton
and tobacco. They grow enough sugar-cane for their
own eating, not for making sugar ; and they are so
eager for gain, that it would not be difficult to induce
them to plant crops requiring only ordinary superin-
tendence. They sow the cotton-seed after the rice
harvest. Their agricultural instruments are strong
swords, made by themselves from imported iron, used
for cutting grass or young jungle; and a kind of small
axe and adze in one, by turning the iron in its socket.
This instrument they use in shaping out planks for boats,
and for felling the larger trees ; and, in their hands,
it brings down the timber as fast as an English axe
would in the hands of a backwoodsman. One method
they adopt for getting rid of old jungle is this: —
first of all, they clear away the underwood and the
branches near the ground, then with their axes they
cut the larger trees more than half through ; at last,
choosing some giant of the forest, they fell it com-
pletely : in its fall it drags all the others after it, as
they are connected together by twining creepers of
great size and strength. It is a dangerous practice,
and requires care to avoid the wide-spread fall, that
comes to the earth with an awful crash.

They obtain bees’-wax from the nests built on the
tapang tree, and climb the loftiest heights in search
of it, upon small sticks, which they drive as they
advance up the noble stem that rises above a hundred

SOCIAL LIFE OF TI1E SEA DAYAKS.

feet free of branches, and whose girth varies from
fifteen to five-and-twenty feet. Once these pegs arc
driven in, their outer ends are connected by a
stout rattan, which, with the tree, forms a kind of
ladder.

It requires cool and deliberate courage to take a
bee-hive at so great an elevation, where, in case of
being attacked by the bees, the almost naked man
would fall and be dashed to atoms. They depend upon
the flambeaux they carry up with them, as, when the
man disturbs the hive, the sparks falling from it
cause, it is said, the bees to fly down in chase of
them, instead of attacking their real enemy, who then
takes the hive and lowers it down by a rattan string.
The bees escape unhurt. This plan does not appear
to be as safe as that pursued by the Pakatan Dayaks,
who kindle a large fire under the trees, and, throwing
green branches upon it, raise so stifling a smoke that
the bees rush forth, and the man ascending takes their
nest in safety. Both these operations are generally
conducted at night, although the second might be, I
imagine, practised in safety during the day.

There is a custom existing- among the Dayaks of
the Batang Lupar which I have not heard of elsewhere.
Beside one of the paths in the Undup district there
arc several heaps of sticks ; and in other places, of
stones, called “ tambun bula,” or lying heaps. Each
heap is in remembrance of some man who has told a
stupendous lie, or disgracefully failed in carrying out
an engagement ; and every passer-by takes a stick or
a stone to add to the accumulation, saying, at the
time he docs it, “ For So-and-so’s lying heap.” It
goes on for generations, until they sometimes forget

ORDEALS.

/ /

who it was that told the lie ; but, notwithstanding
that, they continue throwing the stone.

At another place, near many cross roads, there is a
tree on which are hung innumerable pieces of rag ;
each person passing tears a little bit of cloth from his
costume and sticks it there. They have forgotten
the origin of this practice, but fear for their health if
they neglect it. One Dayak observed, “ It is like
that custom of some European nations giving pass-
ports to those who enter or leave their country.” If
this be a true explanation, it is, perhaps, to give the
spirits of the woods notice who have passed that way,
and the Dayak’s observation shows how quick they
are, and how well they remember what they have
heard.

They practise various ordeals ; among others, two
pieces of native salt, of equal weight, are placed
in water ; that appertaining to the guilty party
melts immediately; the other, they affirm, keeps its
form ; but, in fact, the one that disappears first
proves the owner to be in the wrong. Another is
with two land shells, which arc put on a plate and
lime-juice squeezed upon them, and the one that
moves first shows the guilt or innocence of the owner,
according as they have settled previously whether
motion or rest is to prove the case. They talk of
another, where the hand is dipped into boiling water
or oil, and innocence is proved by no injury resulting.
The favourite ordeal, however, is the dipping the
head under water, and the first who puts up his face
to breathe loses the case.

I need only observe, concerning their language,
that the Sibuyaus, the Balaus, the Undups, the

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS.

Batang Lupars, the Sakarangs, Scribas, and those
inhabitants of the Itejang living on the Kanovvit and
Ivatibas branches, all speak the same language, with
no greater modifications than exist between the
English spoken in London and Somersetshire. They
are, in fact, but divisions of the same tribe ; and the
differences that arc gradually growing up between
them principally arise from those who frequent the
towns and engage in trade, using much Malay in
their conversations, and allowing their own words to
fall into disuse. The agricultural inhabitants of the
farther interior are much more slowly influenced.

CHAPTER III.

THE KAYANS OF B Alt AM.

Unaccountable Panic — Man Overboard— Fishing — Coast Scenery — ■
Baram Point — Floating Drift — Pretty Coast to Labuan — •
Thunder and Lightning Bay — Bar of the Brunei — River
Scenery — The Capital — Little Children in Canoes — Floating
Market — Kayan Attack — The Present Sultan’s Story — Fire-
arms— Devastation of the Interior — Customs of the Kayans —
Upas Tree — Anew of the Capital — The Fountains — The
Baram — Kayan Stratagem — AYild Cattle — Banks of the River
— Gading Hill— Ivory — Elephants on North-east Coast — Hunt-
ing— Startling Appearance — Town of Langusin — Salutes — •
First Interview — Graves — W an dering Kanowits — Appearance
of the Kayans — Visit Singauding — Religion — Houses — Huge
Slabs — Skulls — Women tatooed — Mats — Arisit the Chiefs —
Drinking Chorus — Extempore Song — Head-hunting — Effect of
Spirits — Sacrifice — Ceremony of Brotherhood — Effect of
Newly-cleared Jungle — War Dance — Firewood — Customs —
Origin of Baram Kayans — Vocabulary — Trade — Birds’ Nests
• — Destruction of Wealth — Manners and Customs — Iron — Visit
Edible Birds’ Nest Caves — The Caves — Narrow Escape — Two
Kinds of Swallows — Neat House — Visit of Singauding — Visit to
Si Obong — Her Dress— Hip-lace — Her Employments — Fare-
well Visit— Fireworks — Smelting Iron — Accident — Departure
— Kayans Cannibals — Anecdotes — Former Method of Trading
— Unwelcome Visitors.

In April, 1851, the steamer Pluto , Acting Com-
mander Brett, arrived in Sarawak with directions to
take me on an official visit to Brunei and Baram.
Sarawak was at that time suffering from one of those
unaccountable panics which sometimes seize on both
large and small communities. The report was that a

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

French fleet was outside preparing to attack the place.
People packed up their valuables, and some even
carried them off to the forest. The only way we
could account for it was the news of the recent
destruction of the capital of Sulu by the Spaniards
having by this time spread over the Archipelago, and
been distorted in various ways.

Starting from Sarawak, we steered our course to
the island of Labuan. One evening on a bright,
starlight night, we were all sitting on the bridge of
the vessel, when we were startled hy the cry of a
“ man overboard.” To stop the steamer, pull the
trigger that disengaged the flaming life-buoy, and to
let down the boats, did not take many minutes, and
they soon pushed off from the sides. While we stood
on the deck with strained attention, a sharp cry was
heard ; then there was a dead silence, followed imme-
diately by the sound of the oars in the rowlocks as
the men gave way towards the life-buoy that was seen
floating astern like a bright torch dancing on the
waves. We thought we heard another fainter cry,
but the mind in great tension will imagine these
things. We could distinguish amid the sound of
splashing water the distant shouts of the men as the
crews hailed each other, but no answer was given to
our captain’s eager inquiries, as the rustling of the
wind in our rigging, and those varied sounds that
ever will arise around a ship laying to, drowned his
voice. The anxiety of all was intense as the boats
pulled back, and a sickening feeling came over us all
when we found that their search had been unavailing.
Either strength had failed the man, or a shark had
seized him before he could reach the life-buoy. The

BA11AM POINT.

passionate grief of the son of the drowned Portuguese
now struck painfully on our ears, and I was not sorry

to gain the refuge of the inner cabin.

In sailing along this coast fine fish and small sharks
arc often caught by hook and line trailing out far
behind the vessels. The Tangiri fish is perhaps the
finest : the usual size obtained varies from three to
five feet, and it has something of the look of a salmon,
without its richness of flavour. We have caught also
many young sharks, but all under five feet ; in fact,
anything larger would carry away the bait, hook, and
all. Young shark is often eaten, both by Malays and
Chinese. I have tasted it, and thought it very coarse ;
but at sea even that change is palatable.

The coast line between Sarawak and Baram point
is the least beautiful of the north-vest coast. Scarcely
any but hills far in the interior are seen, and the land
is either flat or gently undulating hill and dale, hut
with few distinctive features. However, in the depth
of the great bay that lies between Points Sirik and
Baram, near the river of Bintulu, there are some fine
mountains ; and once, during a very clear day, I
thought I saw a far distant peak, which might be
that of Tilong, according to native report, higher than
Kina Balu. Bintulu is now the northern boundary of
the territories of Sarawak.

Although I have said the appearance of this coast
is not picturesque, yet in the eye of one who looks
to the commercial and agricultural advantages, it is
satisfactory. Broad plains of alluvial soil, as rich,
perhaps, as any in the world, and a fine succession
of swelling hill and dale afford some compensa-
tion to one who, as I do, looks upon this coast as

VOL. I.

THE KAYANS OF B AIIAM.

capable of as much development as a similar space
in Java.

Between Bintulu and Baram there are two remark-
able serrated mountains — Silungan and Lambir ; but
in this ninety miles of coast one small village only
is to found, and unless you penetrate far into the
interior, there arc but a few wandering Punans and
others who inhabit it.

Baram is a dangerous point to ships, as it lies low
and the sea shoals rapidly. Here in the rainy season
the fresh water rushes out with so much force, as to
carry it unmixed four or five miles from land, where
native prahus often take in their supplies. Large
trunks of trees are continually floating about, which
arc brought down from the interior, and are very
dangerous to small vessels, and many a Malay trader
has owed to them his ruin. Off Sirik Point a prahu
struck and immediately sunk. Her captain reported
a rock, but as the coast near was simply alluvial
deposit, and the fishermen who frequent this spot
have never found it, it is generally thought that he
suffered from a submerged tree.

I was once a passenger on board a frigate while
she sailed by this point. We were sitting below,
and heard her distinctly strike, and a grating sound
as of crushed coral was audible. “ On shore again,”
was the general observation : we went on deck, to
find her running before the wind at ten knots an
hour. We had, I believe, simply passed over one
of these huge trunks. I have mentioned elsewhere
the mass of floating weeds and trees that con-
tinually gyrates in a circle about fifteen miles off
this point.

LABUAN.

Although my object was to visit the Baram river,
yet I was obliged to pass on to Labuan and Brunei to
obtain interpreters and guides. As we approached
our little English colony we found our coal was all
used, and we could scarcely reach the harbour, although
we burnt a horse-box and everything available on
board.

The coast line between Baram and Brunei is very
pretty. As we approach the capital, the interminable
jungle gives way to grassy hills, with a park-like dis-
tribution of timber. Curling wreaths of smoke rising
from the shaded valleys, told us that the inhabitants
were numerous. In the far distance we could see the
great mountain of Molu, the loftiest known, except
Kina Balu : the latter was visible to-day, although
about 120 miles off; it looked like a huge table
mountain rising from the sea, all intervening ground
being lost in the distance.

We reached Labuan the day before the Queen’s
birthday, in time to bo present at the official dinner
given by Governor Scott. I shall take another oppor-
tunity to notice this island.

We heard on our arrival that Mr. Low, the Colonial
treasurer, had made an attempt to reach the summit
of Kina Balu. It was generally said ho had failed ;
but many years after, I was able to prove that he had
reached to within a few hundred feet of the very
highest peaks.

After some days’ stay to coal, we started for the
capital, which lies about thirty-three miles to the
S.S.W. The bay opposite Labuan is one of the most
striking on the coast. The mountains commence
within a few miles of the shore, and tower in suc-

6—2

THE KAYANS OF BAll AM.

cessivc ranges to Brayong, and Si Guntang, about
8,000 feet in height.

By naval men this is called Thunder-and- Lightning
Bay, and it avcII deserves the name, as scarcely a day
passes without some heavy squall sweeping down from
the mountains, while the brightest lightning flashes,
and the thunder rolls and re-echoes among the hills.

The entrance to the inner bay, into which so many
rivers pour their waters, is five fathoms, and with a
little care as to the known marks, of easy entrance.
To the right is the low island of Muara, reputed
deadly ; but I have stayed there many times, and
none of my people suffered. Keeping along the
southern shore of the island, the channel is reached,
and as we approach the true entrance of the Brunei
river the scenery becomes lovely.

To the right is the island of Ihgaran, with its
remains of Spanish batteries ; to the left, picturesque
Chermin. No ship of any size can enter the river,
as eight feet at low water, and fourteen at high, is
what the bar affords, which is also rendered more
difficult by a long artificial dam of stones thrown
across the stream in former times to prevent the
approach of hostile squadrons. The water, however,
has forced an angular passage to the right, through
which vessels are obliged to pass. It is one of the
worst rivers for commercial purposes in Borneo.

Beautiful hills rise sharply from the banks ; some
arc wooded, with clumps of lofty palms pushing their
way up through the jungle, while others are cleared,
presenting swelling grassy summits and green slopes.
Before us the honoured hill of Sei rises, and forms,
as it were, an abrupt termination of the river. The

LITTLE CHILDREN IN CANOES.

Borneans take a pride in this hill that overshadows
their town, although its elevation is hut /00 feet.

Turning sharply to the right, we saw the first
houses of the capital of Borneo, by the natives called
Dar’u’salam, or the Abode of Peace, and which has
been truly described as the “ Venice of hovels.” The
salt-water creek or river here expands to a small
lake, and on mud-banks are the houses, built on the
slenderest of piles — mere palms, that rot in three
years. Slow, sluggish, and muddy, the water passes
underneath, to leave, at ebb tide, exposed banks emit-
ting the most offensive effluvia, which turns the gold
and silver of uniforms to the colour of dirt.

As soon as we had anchored, the steamer was sur-
rounded by a crowd of canoes, some so small as
scarcely to float a child of five years of age — in fact,
but a hollowed log. Mothers do not fear to trust
their children in them, as they swim like fishes. It
is a saying in Siam, that their children can do three
things at a tender age — swim, smoke, and suck. I
once saw a child at the breast, but with one eye fixed
on his brothers paddling in the water ; presently it
gave a crow of delight, and leaving its mother’s arms,
sprang into the river to enjoy the fun. lie was not
more than three years old.

The whole town appeared to be interested in our
arrival, for, as we passed up the broad and deep river
between the lines of houses, crowds of men, women,
and children thronged the verandahs.

The floating market mentioned by Forrest was
there also — several hundred canoes, each containing
one or two women, covered over with mat hats a yard
in diameter, floated up and down about the town,

THE KAYANS OF CARAM.

pulling through the water lanes and resting for a
while in the slack tide at the back of the houses.
These women, generally ill-favoured old slaves, fre-
quent this migratory assemblage every day, and buy
and sell fowls, vegetables, fish, and fruit.

The supply of food for this population of fivc-and-
twenty thousand requires some arrangement : so every
morning a market is held at various points, where
the hill people assemble and exchange their agri-
cultural produce for salt, fish, iron, and clothes. The
old women are diligent frequenters of these places,
and buy here to retail in the capital.

I have often come across these extemporized
markets : some held under groves of fruit-trees ;
others on grassy fields, but, by choice or accident,
always in a lovely spot.

We had not long been anchored when the Sultan
and ministers sent messengers on board, to inquire
the news and invite me to a meeting. They arc very
anxious about the result of my visit to the Kayans,
as there is little doubt that this slave-acquiring and
head-hunting people are destroying the interior popu-
lation.

To-day they had received news that three long
war-boats of their enemies had been dragged over
into the waters of the upper Limbang ; that they
had attacked a party of the Sultan’s Murut subjects,
and killed six, after which they had immediately
returned to their own country. It is evident that
the Borneans arc in great fear of the ultimate result
of these forays. The old Sultan being ill, I did not
see him, but spent the evening with Pangeran
Mumein, the prime minister (and present Sultan).

THE PRESENT SULTAN.

He is an amiable man, and bears a better character
than the rest ; his great fault is grasping. lie is
always telling the story of bis tight with the Kayans,
which exemplifies how easily these men were defeated
by the use of musketry. Some years since, Pangeran
Mumein hearing that the district of Tamburong was
invaded by the people of Baram, collected his fol-
lowers and guns, and proceeded thither. When they
came in sight of the Kayans crowded round a village,
the Malays became alarmed, and wished to retreat ;
hut their leader sprang forward and fired a brass
swivel at the enemy ; it fortunately took effect on
one, and the crowd dispersed. Recovering from their
fright, the Borneans fired volley after volley into the
jungle, and celebrated their victory by loud beatings
of R'onjxs and drums. The Kayans, still more

O O J 7

frightened, fled in all directions.

Pangeran Mumein justly observed, that as long as
the Kayans were unacquainted with the use of fire-
arms, it was easy to defend the country ; but that
now the Bornean traders were supplying them with
brass swivels and double-barrel guns, he thought that
the ruin of Brunei was at hand. But the fact is,
that though the Kayans are now less frightened at
the noise of heavy guns and muskets than they were,
they seldom employ them in their expeditions in the
jungle, as they cannot keep them in working order.

With the assistance of his followers’ memories,
Mumein repeated the names of forty villages that
had been destroyed within the last ten years, and the
majority of the inhabitants captured or killed.

Several of the respectable Malay traders of the
place have agreed to go with me as guides and inter-

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

preters ; among tlie rest are Gadorc, Abdul Ajak,
and Bakir, the principal dealers with Baram. Bakir
had hut just arrived from that country, and he says
that the Kayans arc anxiously awaiting my arrival,
having heard that I was ready for the steamer. As
lie appears a very intelligent fellow, I will note down
some of the information he gave me about the people.
Their customs appear much the same as those of the
Sea Dayaks : he began, oddly enough, with their
funerals. When a man dies, they wrap him up in
cloths and place him in a kind of box on top of four
upright poles, and leave him there with some of his
worldly goods — in the case of chiefs, a very large
amount. Their marriages are simple. When two
young people take a fancy to each other, their inter-
course is unrestrained : should the girl prove with
child, a marriage takes place ; their great anxiety for
children makes them take this precaution against
sterility.

We pulled in the evening to visit the fine upas-
tree growing at the end of the reach below the town.
We landed at a Mahomedan burying- place, and there
met a Malay, who warned us not to approach this
deadly tree, but we smilingly thanked him and con-
tinued our course, forcing our way through the
tangled bushes at its base: it has a noble stem, some
fivc-and-thirty feet without a branch, and eighteen
feet in circumference ; the colour of its hark is a
light brown. The tree is a very handsome and
spreading one, and its bright rich green contrasted
well with the dark foliage beyond.

Leaving the burying -ground, we fell down the
river a hundred yards, and then walked up a path

VIEW OF THE CAPITAL.

leading over the hills, where a dip rendered the pas-
sage easier. Arriving at the summit, we saw the
town spread out, map-like, before us, and it is one ot
the loveliest scenes I have ever witnessed. The sun
was just setting amid a broken heap of clouds, and
threw its dimmed rays on everything around, I he
river, slowly meandering through the town and
country, flowed past our feet, its rippled waters
faintly tinged with purple ; while around, till hidden
hv the now rapidly-approaching darkness, we could
perceive a succession of hills, gilded here and there,
and generally clothed with trees to the very summit ;
but, that the eye might not he wearied, many an
eminence was grass-covered. A cool breeze blew
gently down the river, and was pleasantly refreshing
after the hot day.

Before darkness had quite enveloped us, we visited
those little grottos whence the Borneans obtain their
supplies of drinking water. Bills arc led through
bamboo-pipes, and brought conveniently to fill the
jars that crowd the numerous boats, each waiting its
turn. Brunei water is famous ; it runs through a
sandstone district, and is very clear and tasteless.
One of these places is called to this day “ The
Factor’s Fountain,” and brings back to one’s mind
the time, when the East India Company had a factory
here and traded in pepper.

Having collected our Bornean guides, who vainly
endeavoured to load the steamer with their trading
goods, we bade adieu to the authorities and started
for Labuan. We stayed there but a few hours, and
then steamed away for the Baram.

Next morning we arrived off the mouth, and, by

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

not steering towards land till the northern point of
the river bore due east, came in with one-and-
a-half fathom water. The natives say there is a
deeper channel to be found by keeping close in to
the northern shore, but it has not yet been completely
surveyed. A fresh breeze was blowing, which curled
the waves and dashed them in breakers on the sand-
bank ; so that our passage wras made in a sea of foam.
This obstruction renders the river comparatively use-
less, and is greatly to be regretted, as immediately
the bar is passed the water deepens to four and five
fathoms ; occasionally we found no bottom with a ten-
fatliom line.

At the mouth, the width of the Baram is about
half a mile ; it gradually narrows, and then varies in
breadth from 300 to 500 yards. Casuarians line the
entrance, then nipa palms, and the usual jungle press-
ing closely to the water’s edge. A few miles more,
and patches of rich, short grass ornament the banks,
increasing in number as we advanced. The jungle
presented few varied tints, but pretty creepers and
white and red flowers occasionally showed themselves
amoim the dark leaves.

About twenty miles up the river was a landing-
place on the right bank, leading to the Blait country,
inhabited by Muruts, who have suffered heavily by
the attacks of the Kayans.

Makota, the Malay noble so often mentioned in
Keppel’s Voyage of the Dido , as the chief opponent
of European influence in Borneo, and certainly the
ablest and most unscrupulous man, and yet the most
agreeable companion I have found among the Malays,
told me how the Kayans had managed to obtain a

KAYAN STRATAGEM.

village of Muruts in the Plait country. It had often
been attacked, hut, as a strong- stockade had been
built round it, they had defied the enemy.

One day, a fugitive party of three men and several
women and children were seen flying from the jungle
towards the Murut village. Some armed men went
out to meet them, and they said that they had run
away from the Kayans, and were now escaping pursuit.
They proved to he Muruts of a distant river, who
had been captured and held in slavery by the Kayans.
The Blaits received them with hospitality, and offered
them room in their long village houses that contained
150 families. The fugitives, however, said they pre-
ferred keeping their party together, and asked leave
to build up a temporary hut against the inner side
of the stockade. Permission was granted, and they
lived there six months, working at a farm with their
hosts.

One of these men, after the gathering in of the
harvest, stayed out till sunset, and explained it by
saying he had been hunting, and that the chase had
led him farther than he intended. It was a dark
night that followed ; and, about four in the morning,
a large party of Kayans crawled quietly up to the
stockade, and found an entrance prepared for them.
The posts had been removed by the stranger Muruts,
who had gradually cut through the wood that formed
the inner wall of their temporary shed. When suffi-
cient were within the defences, a loud shout was
raised, and fire applied to the leaf houses. The
villagers rushed out to be cut down or captured. In
the confusion and the darkness, however, the larger
portion escaped, but left about a hundred and fifty

TIIE ICAYANS OF BARAM.

bodies and captives in the hands of the Kayans ; and
I am not sorry to add, among the former were the
three treacherous men who had caused this awful
scene. Some of the attacking party not obtaining
heads, quietly possessed themselves of those of their
three allies.

Kum Lia planned and led this foray. I had
some doubts of the truth of this circumstantially told
story ; and many years after, meeting Kum Lia in
daily intercourse, I asked him about it. He was
proud to acknowledge that he was the author of the
able stratagem, but was not clear as to whether they
had also slain their allies, but thought it very possible
that his followers had done so.

At sunset we passed the island of Bakong, divided
by narrow waters from the shore, and along the banks
grass grew luxuriantly. We were struck by the
appearance of dark objects ; and, seeing them move,
telescopes were pointed, and they proved to be a herd
of Tambadau, or wild cattle, and at the edge of the
jungle was a group of deer.

We anchored at the entrance of the Bakong stream,
about thirty-five miles from the mouth of the Baram.
D urinff the night careful observations were made, and
it was found that at the height of the flood the river
rose only three feet, and the strength of the current
averaged only one mile per hour.

Started before sunrise ; the stream continues much
the same. At first there were more open glades, with
rich soft-looking grass like our English meadows ;
traces of wrild cattle and deer were constantly to be
observed. The river was seldom over four hundred
yards in breadth, but never less than two ; the sound-

BANKS OF THE RIVER.

in<rs changed from tlircc fathoms to no bottom with
the usual line, but this great variation was caused by
our not always being able to keep in the deepest part
of the stream.

A glance at the map will show how very abrupt arc
the turnings, and how the stream doubles on itself,
rendering it a very difficult matter to steer. Occa-
sionally the current would catch the bow of the
steamer, and force it on the shore ; but immediately
the stern felt the same force, it was pressed also
towards the bank, and the stem again would point up
stream. It was at last found the easiest and safest
way to turn the sharp points.

To-day we steamed by several Malay trading prahus
pulling up the stream, and observed one enormous
Tapang tree that rose close to the water’s edge.

Early in the afternoon we passed the embouchure of
the Tingjir on the left bank ; it was about a third
of the size of the Baram, and is said to be shallow : it
is well inhabited by a tribe of people called Sububs,
with whom the Kayans are interspersed. A couple
of hours after, we reached the Tutu on the right bank ;
up this the Kayans proceed when intent on a foray in
the Upper Limbang country.

Saw the first Kayans near this spot. Two canoes
were coming down the river ; directly they perceived
the moving monster approaching, they turned and
fled ; but as they found we were overtaking them,
they deserted their canoes and dashed ashore. Three,
however, remained at the edge of the jungle, and we
reassured them by waving our handkerchiefs. It
was a pardonable fear, they had never before seen
anything larger than their own war boats. They

TIIE KAYANS OF BARAM.

looked very much like the Kanowit Dayaks before
described.

We had one fine view of the peak of Molu and of
its surrounding ranges ; occasionally the banks are
becoming steep.

Anchored after sunset, above one hundred miles
from the mouth ; we are now far beyond the influence
of the tides, yet the current averaged but a mile and
a half.

Again started before sunrise ; the river continued
its winding course with a few patches of greensward;
our guides say there are no more wild cattle, hut many
deer in this neighbourhood. We passed the sites of
numerous deserted plantations and of a few new ones :
we startled the people at a farmhouse by running our
bowsprit into their verandah : no wonder the women
and children fled shrieking to the jungle.

Most of these habitations are built on high posts,
and are very neatly constructed. Generally, the
people showed little fear, but crowded the verandahs
to look at us, some rushing to their boats to follow.
We again found a little difficultv in rounding the
sharp points, and were constantly striking the banks,
but no damage was done, although we were often
among the overhanging branches of the jungle.

We touched once, while near the centre of the
stream, on what I do not know, probably a rock or a
stump of a tree — the snags of the American rivers.
But just above this spot was the abrupt hill of
Gading, that rises perpendicularly from the banks,
and is brightly white, with deep fissures, and is
celebrated for its birds’-nest caves. I am sorry we
did not stop to examine this, as many years after I

ELEPHANTS ON THE NORTH-EAST COAST.

found among the Muruts of the centre of Northern
Borneo, a small slab of white marble, that I could
only trace as having been brought from the Baram
river. The Malays called it Batu Gading, or ivory-
stone : it was pure white.

Among our Malays was one who had frequently
traded with the north-east coast, and the mention
of Gading (ivory) brought to his recollection that
elephants exist in the districts about the river Kina
Batangan. I have seen many tusks brought to
Lahuan for sale, but never measured one longer than
six feet two inches, including the part set in the
head.

I have met dozens of men who have seen the ele-
phants there, hut my own experience has been limited
to finding their traces near the sea-beach. It is gene-
rally believed that above a hundred years ago the
East India Company sent to the Sultan of Sulu a
present of these animals ; that the Sultan said these
great creatures would certainly cat up the whole pro-
duce of his own little island, and asked the donors to
land them at Cape Unsang, on the north-east coast of
Borneo, where his people would take care of them.
But it is contrary to their nature to take care of any
animal that requires much trouble, so the elephants
sought their own food in the woods, and soon became
wild.

Hundreds now wander about, and constantly break
into the plantations, doing much damage ; but the
natives sally out with huge flaming torches, and drive
the startled beasts back to the woods.

The ivory of Bornean commerce is generally pro-
cured from the dead bodies found in the forests, but

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

there is now living, one man who drives a profitable
trade in fresh ivory. lie sallies out on dark nights,
with simply a waistcloth and a short, sharp spear : he
crawls up to a herd of elephants, and selecting a large
one, drives his spear into the animal’s belly. In a
moment, the whole herd is on the move, frightened
by the bellowing of their wounded companion, who
rushes to and fro, until the panic spreads, and they
tear headlong through the jungle, crushing before
them all smaller vegetation. The hunter’s peril at
that moment is great, but fortune has favoured him
yet, as he has escaped being trampled to death.

In the morning he follows the traces of the herd,
and, carefully examining the soil, detects the spots
of blood that have fallen from the wounded elephant,
lie often finds him, so weakened by loss of blood as
to be unable to keep up with the rest of the herd,
and a new wound is soon inflicted. Patiently pur-
suing this practice, the hunter has secured many of
these princes of the forest.

One can easily understand how startled a man
unused to an animal larger than a pony would feel on
suddenly finding himself face to face with a huge
elephant. My favourite follower, Musa, has often
made his audience laugh by an account of the feelings
he experienced, when, pulling up the great river of
Kina Batangan, he steered close in-shore to avoid the
strength of the current, and, looking up to find what
was moving near, saw a noble tusked elephant above
him, with his proboscis stretched over the boat to
pick fruit beyond — “ The paddle dropped from my
hand, life left me, but the canoe drifted back out
of danger.”

TOWN OF LANGUSIN.

The banks of the Baram gradually became higher,
and topped by neat farmhouses, increased in beauty ;
but I think the first view of the Kayan town of
Langusin was one of the most picturesque I have
ever witnessed. Long houses, built on lofty posts,
on hills of various heights, yet appearing to he
clustered together, while near were numerous little
rice stores, neatly whitewashed. I never saw a
prettier-looking place. We steered on, until we
reached a long village-house, still building, opposite
which we anchored. Crowds immediately assembled
on the banks, and the Bornean traders came off to
give and receive news.

The chief, Tamawan, now sent to know how the
salutes were to be arranged, and we agreed that as
usual we should salute his flag first, and that he
should return it. We were rather surprised to find
an English ensign hoisted, but he had received it
from a trader, and said he would never change it, as
it showed his good feeling towards us.

Among the guns fired was the pivot 32-pounder,
and the sound echoed and re-echoed among the
neighbouring hills, startling the whole population,
who had never before heard anything louder than
a brass swivel. The salute was returned by an
irregular firing, that continued for about an hour —
the greater number of guns the greater honour.

My Malay followers were very desirous that I
should show the utmost dignity, and require the
chiefs of the river to make the first visit ; but on that
I declined insisting, and left it to the Ivayans to
settle ; and, thinking it would show more confidence,
I went on shore while these preliminaries were dis-

VOL. I.

TIIE KAYANS OF BAKAM.

cussing, and walked to the spot where all the prin-
cipal men were assembled under a temporary shed.
Two chairs and two boxes covered with English rugs
were arranged at one end. Before taking my seat,
I shook hands with all around. This was a formal
meeting, and I explained to them the object of our
coming, which was to cement the friendship of the
English with the Kayans. Having just arrived from
the Kanowit, I was enabled to give them some intelli-
gence from their friends and relations. In fact, I
found Kum Nipa’s son here, and also Dihgun,
Bclabun’s brother, and I had the unpleasant task of
informing them that small-pox had broken out on the
Rejang, and was committing fearful ravages. I did
not tell the latter of the death of his younger brother
by Kayan bands, as it might prove disagreeable to
be informed of it publicly.

I did not stay long, as they appeared to be uneasy,
but with general assurances of friendship left them.

It is difficult to describe the outward appearance
of these people, and say anything different from what
I have already said in describing the Sea Dayaks.
They are much like the Sakarangs, except that they
are slightly tatooed with a few stars and other marks ;
however, I have not as yet seen much of them.

Along the banks of the river, we observed many
Kayan graves : the body is wrapped up, enclosed
within a hollowed coffin, and raised on two thick,
carved posts, with roughly carved woodwork extending
out from each corner, like those seen on the roofs
of Budhist temples. In one they put so many goods
that the Bornean traders were tempted to rob them ;
and had not the Kayans discovered who were the

APPEARANCE OF THE K A VANS.

culprits, the rest would have suffered heavily. The
Bornean thieves escaped, but they and all their con-
nections are for ever precluded from trading with this
district.

Dingun came on board to hear more particular news
of his familv, and was shocked on being informed of
the death of his brother: lie told me he should return
home in about five months. Two years ago, he and
a party of thirty started from Kanowit, and proceeded
up the Bejang, amusing themselves with the Kayans ;
they then pushed on and crossed over to Baram,
where they had remained guests of the principal
chiefs. He and his companions were easily distin-
guished from their neighbours by their profuse
tatooing. I was enabled to give him some information
about his father, his brothers, and his four children ;
about his wife, I do not remember that he inquired.

The Baram is said to abound in alligators, but
they are evidently not very dangerous, as the women
and children bathed daily opposite the ship. Strength
of current, two knots per hour.

Next morning, the chiefs came on board. I will
give their names as a curiosity : — Tamawan, Sing-
auding, Ivum Lia, the hero of the Blait surprise, Si
Matau, Longapan, and Longkiput, with some
hundreds of followers. They were charmed to be
allowed freely to inspect the vessel. Tamawan looks
a savage, and doubtless is one : he had on hut little
dress — a waistcloth of about two fathoms of gray
shirting, a handkerchief tossed over his shoulder,
and a head-dress of dark cloth. lie is but slightly
tatooed, having a couple of angles on his breast, a few
stars on his arms, his hands as far as the joints of his

7—2

100

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

fingers, and a few fanciful touches about his elbows ;
his cars were bored and then drawn down by leaden
weights, as is the fashion among the Kanowits ; the
tops of his ears were also bored, and the long teeth
of the tiger-cat stuck through them like a pair
of turn-down horns. And such was the dress and
appearance of nearly all but a few young men,
who wore jackets of a variety of colours, with an
equal variety of trimmings. Tamawan was a small
man, but Simatau and Singauding were hulking
fellows ; they were all strong or wiry-looking men,
capable of much fatigue ; their countenances, on the
whole, were pleasant. I took them down to inspect
the machinery, and my Bornean followers were their
guides to show them all the other wonders on board,
particularly the large thirty-two pounder gun, which
greatly excited their respect. Kum Lia, who is the
son-in-law of Kum Nipa, of Bejang, whom I have
mentioned as the chief we intended to visit, when we
were stopped by the small-pox having broken out in
his country, stayed after the others to inquire about
his family. lie remembered the name of Niblett,
who commanded the Phlegethon when it called at
Bintulu in 1847.

In the evening I visited Singauding at his house.
I should like to have taken up my residence on shore,
but they were desirous to make so many preparations
that I gave up the idea, as our stay would necessarily
he short, although I was anxious to observe them
more closely.

Our talk was at first about steamers, balloons, and
rockets, of which they had heard much from the
Borneans. They particularly wished to know if we

RELIGION — HOUSES.

101

had a telescope that could discover the hidden
treasures of the earth, as they had heard we possessed
one that showed mountains in the moon.

I was unfortunate in the medium through which 1
obtained my information. The Bornean interpreters
are only anxious on the subject of trade ; and being
Mahomedans always laugh at the superstitions of the
wild tribes. I therefore give, with some hesitation,
what they told me concerning their religion. They
said the name of their god was Totaduhgan, and he
was the supreme ruler who created, and now reigned
over all ; that he had a wife, but no children ;
beneath him were many other inferior powers. They
believed in a future life, with separate places for the
souls of the good and of the bad ; that their heaven
and hell were divided into many distinct residences ;
that those who died from wounds, from sickness, or were
drowned, went each to separate places. If a woman
died before her husband, she went to the other world
and married. On the death of her husband, if he
came to the same world, she repudiated her ghostly
partner and returned to him who had possessed her
on earth.

Singauding’s house was of a similar construction to
those of the Sea Dayaks, very long, with a broad,
covered verandah, as a public room, and a sleeping-
place for the bachelors, while off it were separate
apartments for the married people, the young girls,
and children. The roof was of shingle, the posts
of heavy wood, the flooring of long and broad rough
planks, the partitions of the same material, with
small doors about two feet above the floor, leading
into the inner rooms.

1 0'2

THE KAYANS OF BAR AM.

Every Kayan chief of consideration possesses a
kind of seat formed from the Tapang tree. It is, in
fact, a huge slab, cut out of the buttress of that lofty
tree ; and this seat descends from father to son, till
it is polished and black with age. Sihgauding gave
me one, measuring ten feet six inches by six feet six
inches. It was made into a very handsome dining-
table, but was unfortunately burnt during the Chinese
insurrection of 1857- When Sihgauding heard of
this, he determined to send me another that should
throw the former into the shade ; and I heard that
the one selected was fifteen feet by nine. Up to
August, 1861, it had not reached me, as all the
Malay traders declared their boats were too small to
receive it.

Near the spot where we sat conversing were open
baskets, hung near the fire-places, containing the
human heads they had captured. The house certainly
did not look cheerful ; but I saw it under unfavour-
able circumstances — a dark evening with constant
drizzling rain.

As yet, I have seen but the few women who bathe
opposite to the ship. They are generally tatooed from
the knee to the waist, and wear but a cloth like
a handkerchief hung round the body, and tucked in
at one side above the hip, leaving a portion of the
thigh visible. When bathing, their tatooing makes
them look as if they were all wearing black breeches.
They are tolerable-looking women ; and I saw a few
pleasant countenances.

The visit of the steamer was not timed very fortu-
nately, as Tamadin, an influential chief, with a large
party, was away head-hunting ; and a rumour had

VISIT TO THE CHIEFS.

103

arrived of a very severe loss having been suffered by
a force that started for the interior of the Limbang
and Trusan rivers. If we could stay twenty days we
should sec all the population ; but I have had a hint
that the provisions are running short, and nothing can
be procured here but a few pigs, fowls, and goats, all
very dear.

I have calculated the population of this town, called
Langusin, at 2,500 souls, and this is perhaps under
the mark. From my inquiries, however, the interior
must be tolerably well peopled.

At ten o’clock at night, the shouts and yells
of the Kayans on shore were borne to us, as
they were working1 with might and main to finish
the long village-house of Tamawan. He gave
them some drink, and they worked half the
night.

They showed me some very pretty mats to-day
made by the wandering tribe of Punans, who live on
jungle produce, and collect honey and wax.

Next day I sent some presents to Sihgauding and
Tamawan, and at their special invitation went ashore
to meet them. A large temporary shed sheltered us
from the sun. There was no inconvenient crowding,
not more than a hundred men being assembled, and
about twenty women, the wives and daughters of their
chiefs. Among them there were some interesting
girls. They wore their long black hair quite loose,
only white fillets being bound round the forehead, so
as to cast the hair in heavy masses over their ears and
down their backs. Their countenances were open,
bright dark eyes, smooth foreheads, depressed noses,
clear skin, but indifferent mouths. They had good

104

TIIE KAYANS OF BARAM.

figures and well set up busts. I have as yet seen no
old women and men in the tribe.

One of the objects of my visit was to inquire into
the alleged bad conduct of an English trader and of
a Sarawak Malay. I spent two hours in this investi-
gation. When this was over, native arrack and
some of my French brandy was introduced. About a
third of a tumbler of the former was handed to me.
As I raised it to my lips, the whole assembly burst out
into what appeared a drinking chorus ; and this they
did when any man of note drank. A little spirit get-
ting into them, they became more cheerful and amus-
ing ; and we talked about their head-hunting propen-
sities. The wholesome advice I felt compelled to
give them on this subject made them feel thirsty, and
Tamawan seizing a bottle, filled two tumblers two-
thirds full of raw spirit and handed it to me, and
asked me to drink with him to the friendship of the
two nations. Could I refuse ? No. I raised the
tumbler to my lips, and amid a very excited chorus
allowed the liquor to flow down.

When this was finished, Tamawan jumped up, and
while standing burst out into an extempore song, in
which Sir James Brooke and myself, and last, not
least, the wonderful steamer, was mentioned with
warm eulogies, and every now and then the whole
assembly joined in chorus with great delight.

Tamawan now sat down and talked about head-
hunting a^ain. He said that when the Ivavans
attacked a village, they only killed those who re-
sisted or attempted to escape ; the rest they brought
home with them, turning them in fact into field slaves,
lie declared, however, that his great village, and

EFFECT OF SPIRITS.

105

twenty-one others, were averse to the practice of head-
hunting- ; hut that over the twenty -eight other villages
lie had no influence. The above forty-nine villages
he went over by name, and mentioned likewise the
principal chief in each. They assert that a village
was considered small that had only a hundred families,
while a large one contained four hundred. If we may
judge from the account lie gave of the town opposite
which we are anchored, he must have underrated
considerably. He said this contained two hundred
families ; but after going over the numbers in each
village-house, we came to the conclusion that there
were at least five hundred families in Langusin.
But as lono- as head-hunting is considered an
honourable pursuit, and the acquisition of Murut
slaves enables the chiefs to live without labour,
it will be impossible to put a stop to their
forays.

Tamawan had excited himself on this subject, and
again feeling very thirsty after all the information lie
had given me, now looked about for something to
drink. I was beginning to congratulate myself on
its being finished, when he spoke to a very pretty
girl who was standing near, and she instantly disap-
peared to return with a couple of bottles of brandy
in her hands. The two tumblers were again filled
more than half-full — one for me, the other for himself.
I remembered what Sydney Smith said of the little
effect spirit often has on the temperate man, and
joined him in this last pledge. I pitied the poor
Malays, who had never been accustomed to anything
stronger than tea, being forced to follow our example;
and yet it was ridiculous to watch their contortions

106

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

and wry faces, as their inexorable hosts forced them to
swallow their allowance.

Now came a ceremony new to me : a young pig was
brought in by the pretty waiting-maid and handed over
to one of the men present, who hound its legs, and
carrying it out opposite to where the Pluto was
anchored, placed it on the ground. Mats were laid
around, and a chair was provided for me. Tamawan
now came forward and commenced an oration. His
voice was at first thick from the potency of his pre-
vious draughts ; but warming on his subject, he
entered at large on the feelings of friendship with
which lie regarded the English ; spoke of the won-
derful vessel that came with oars of tire ; seized my
hand, and gesticulated excitedly with the other ; then
pointing to the pig, he entered on what appeared to
he a prayer, as he seemed appealing to something
beyond him; he took a knife, and cut the pig’s throat;
the body was then opened, and the heart and liver
taken out and placed on two leaves, and closely
examined, to judge from their appearance whether
our visit would he fortunate for the Kayan nation.
Every chief present felt their different proportions,
and Tamawan pointed out to me the various indica-
tions. Luckily for our friendship, they found that
every portion portended good fortune. With his
bloody hand Tamawan grasped mine, and expressed
his delight at the happy augury. Throwing away
the auricle of the heart, they cut up the rest to eat,
and placed the pieces over the fire, using a bambu as
a cooking vessel.

I now took my leave, rather tired with my four
hours’ exertions, and returned on board. The cere-

CEREMONY OF BROTHERHOOD.

10/

mony of examining the heart and liver of the pig
was too classical not to merit particular notice, though
I have already mentioned that the Sakarang Dayaks
practise the same.

Next day being Sunday, the Malays kept the
Kavans from coming on board. I inquired parti-
cularly as to the meaning of Tamawan’s address
yesterday, and I hear that it was an invocation to
the spirits of good and evil to allow him to discover
from the heart of the sacrifice whether our visit was
to prove fortunate or not to the Kayan nation.

Sihgauding sent on board to request me to become
his brother by going through the sacred custom of
imbibing each other’s blood. I say imbibing, because
it is either mixed with water and drunk, or else it is
placed within a native cigar and drawn in with the
smoke. I agreed to do so, and the following day was
fixed for the ceremony. It is called Berbiang by the
Kayans ; Bersabibah by the Borneans. I landed with
our party of Malays, and after a preliminary talk, to
give time for the population to assemble, the affair
commenced. We sat in the broad verandah of a long
house, surrounded by hundreds of men, women, and
children, all looking eagerly at the white stranger
who was about to enter their tribe. Stripping my
left arm, Kum Lia took a small piece of wood, shaped
like a knife-blade, and slightly piercing the skin,
brought blood to the surface; this he carefully scraped
off : then one of my Malays drew blood in the same
way from Sihgauding, and a small cigarette being
produced, the blood on the wooden blades was spread
on the tobacco. A chief then arose, and walking to
an open place, looked forth upon the river and in-

108

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

voiced their god and all the spirits of good and evil
to be witness of this tie of brotherhood. The cigarette
was then lighted, and each of us took several puffs,
and the ceremony was concluded. I was glad to
find that they had chosen the form of inhaling the
blood in smoke, as to have swallowed even a drop
would have been unpleasant, though the disgust
would only arise from the imagination. They some-
times vary the custom, though the variation may he
confined to the Kiniahs, who live farther up the
river, and are intermarried with the Ivavans. There
a pig is brought and placed between the two who are
to he joined in brotherhood. A chief offers an invo-
cation to the gods, and marks with a lighted brand
the pig’s shoulder. The beast is then killed, and
after an exchange of jackets, a sword is thrust into
the wound, and the two arc marked with the blood of
the pig.

I hear that I am in very high favour with the
Kayans, from my joining their drinking party and
now entering their tribe, and binding myself to them
by a tie which they look on as sacred. We had a
long talk about the advantage which would accrue to
trade if the Kayans establish their town nearer the
mouth of the river ; as at present it takes a Malay
boat sixteen days to reach it in the fine season, and
thirty in the wet. I found they had tried it once, by
removing to the mouth of the Tingjir ; but building
their houses over the freshly-cleared jungle they lost
a great many men by fever. They accounted for this
by saying they had accidentally fallen upon a spot that
was much frequented by evil spirits, and so had re-
turned to their original site.

WAR DANCE.

109

To close this meeting merrily, a large jar of arrack
was introduced, and subsequently a bottle of brandy.
Excited by this, Si-Matau clothed himself in full
war costume and commenced a sword dance, lie was
a fine, strong fellow, and with his dress of black
bear-skin ornamented with feathers, his sword in
band, and shield adorned with many-coloured hair,
said to he human, he looked truly formidable. 1 1 is
dancing expressed the character of the people — quick
and vigorous motions, showing to advantage the deve-
lopment of his muscles. lie was accompanied by the
music of a two-stringed instrument, resembling a
rough guitar: the body was shaped like a decked
Malay trading prahu, with a small hole an inch in
diameter in the centre ; the strings were the fine
threads of rattan twisted and drawn up tightly by
means of tuning-keys ; however, the sound produced
was not very different from that of a tightly-drawn
string. Some of the lookers-on were young girls
with regular features, light skins, and good figures,
and with a pleasing, pensive expression.

I looked about the house to-day, and though it is
hoarded all through, and, therefore, more substantial
than those of the Sea Dayaks, yet it did not appear
so bright and cheerful as the light yellow matted
walls of the latter. I never saw so much firewood
collected together as in these houses: on a fine frame-
work spreading partly over the verandah and partly
over their rooms, many months’ supplies are piled
even to the roof ; — of course it is a great advantage
to have dry materials in all weathers, and it is a
provision against times of sickness or busy harvest-
work.

110

THE KAYANS OE BARAM.

Last night there arrived overland the news I had
previously given them of the small-pox having broken
out among the Kayans of Rejang, and to-day it formed
the subject of conversation. They were anxious to
have that medicine which the white men put into the
arm, and which they were told came from the belly of
a snake.

Tamawan, who was on board this morning, was
greatly pleased at witnessing the musket exercise, and
when he came on shore, went through it again to the
admiration of his followers.

As the Kayans believed some misfortune would
happen to us if I went anywhere but straight on
board the ship, or if Sihgauding left his house during
the day, I remained quiet, and talked over affairs
with the Malays.

I find that, as among the Kanowits and other
Dayaks, after the death of a relative they go out
head-hunting, hut do not kill the first person met ;
but each one they pass must make them a trifling
present, which is no doubt quickly given, to get rid
of such unpleasant neighbours.

Nakodah Abdullah, who has traded with this
country since lie was a boy, and Nakodah J alii,
another experienced man, came to spend the after-
noon with me. They say the origin of the Kayans
coming to the Baram was this : About twenty-five
or thirty years ago, there were three powerful chiefs
living in the Balui countrv — as the interiors of the
Rejang and Bintulu rivers are called — Kum Nipa,
Klim Laksa, and the father of my brother Sihgau-
ding ; that Kum Laksa quarrelled with the last, and
being joined by Kum Nipa, a feud arose, in the

VOCABULARY — TRADE.

Ill

course of which the father of Siiigauding was killed.
The relatives, to save the infant son, fled to the
Baram with all those who were well affected to the
family : some thousands came over, and singularly
enough, they were well received by the Kiniahs, the
original inhabitants of the country. Though they
are said to speak distinct languages, they soon com-
menced intermarrying, and are gradually becoming
one people. I am inclined to think, from their own
remarks, that they must originally have come from
the same part of Borneo, and that the difference of
language is not greater than that which exists among
the various branches of the Sea Dayaks. The other
inhabitants of the river are the Sububs, on the Ting-
jir, and the numerous Murut slaves captured in their
forays. Si-Matau, who danced so vigorously this
morning, was a Subub.

I tried, by the aid of the Malay traders, to draw
up a vocabulary of the language, hut found that the
ignorance of these men wras too great to enable me to
make one entitled to any confidence. I noticed that
half their conversation with the natives was carried
on in corrupt Malay words, and these they gave me
as true Kayan expressions.

Before the arrival of the Kayans, the trade to this
river was merely nominal: but they, knowing the
value of the edible birds’-nests, soon changed the
face of matters, as they discovered caves plentifully
supplied with this article of Chinese luxury. Their
houses are now built in the neighbourhood of the
resort of this wealth-creating bird. Quite lately,
however, they wantonly injured their own interests
by taking the nests five times a year, and never allow-

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

1 12

in g' the birds a chance of hatching an egg; the conse-
quence has been, that they are seeking more secluded
spots, and are reported to be resorting to the nume-
rous caves found in the mountain of Molu. The
other articles of trade arc camphor, wax, gutta-
percha, and, lately, a little india-rubber.

They principally import gray shirtings and chintzes ;
the Malays, vying with each other, took one year, it
is said, 50,000 pieces, and allowed the Kayans to
have them on credit. Since then everything has
gone wrong — debts arc not paid, quarrels arise, and
tbe caves are ruined by endeavouring to obtain tbe
means of purchasing more articles.

In some respects, the Kayans differ in their customs
from the other aboriginal tribes of Borneo. At the
birth of a chief’s child there are great rejoicings ; a
feast is given, pigs, and fowls, and goats being freely
sacrificed. Jars of arrack are brought forward, and
all the neighbours are called upon to rejoice with
their leader. They say that on this occasion a name
is given if the omen be good. A feather is inserted
up the child’s nostril, to tickle it ; if it sneeze it is a
good sign, but if not, the ceremony is put off to
another day. I may mention one inhuman custom,
which is, that women who appear to be dying in
childbirth, arc taken to the woods and placed in a
hastily-constructed but ; they arc looked upon as
interdicted, and none but the meanest slaves may
approach them, either to give them food or to attend
to them.

Marriages are celebrated with great pomp ; many
men have ruined themselves by their extravagance on
this occasion. Tamading, with princely munificence,

CUSTOMS — IKON.

113

gave away or spent the whole of his property on his
wedding-day.

As among the Sea Dayaks, the young people have
almost unrestrained intercourse ; but if the girl prove
with child, a marriage immediately takes place, the
bridegroom making the richest presents he can to her
relatives. The men, even the greatest chief, take but
one wife, and, it is said, consider it shameful to mix
their blood, and never, therefore, have any inter-
course with the inferior women or slaves.

I have already mentioned the coffins elevated on
posts ; this, doubtless, extends only to the rich, the
poor being simply buried.

There is another practice of the Kayans, which
was mentioned by Dalton * as existing among those
he met on the Koti river ; it was disbelieved by many
at the time, but it is undoubtedly true : the rich men
using gold, the poorer silver, bones of birds, and even
hard wood. The doctor of the Semiramis steamer
carefully examined a great number of Kayans, and
expressed his astonishment that no injury resulted
from this extraordinary practice. A German mis-
sionary has accused the Southern Kayans of certain
gross usages ; hut I heard nothing of them, and do
not credit his account — his mistakes arising, most
probably, from his want of knowledge of the lan-
guage.

I procured to-day a packet of the iron they use in
smelting; it appeared like a mass of rough, twisted
ropes, and is, I think, called meteoric iron-stone. They
use, also, two other kinds, of which I did not obtain
specimens. We found a little coal in the black shale
* See Dalton’s Koti ; Hunt’s Notices of the Indian Archipelago.

YOL. I. 8

114

THE KAYANS OF BAHAM.

on which the town is built, and they spoke of golden
pebbles, most likely iron pyrites.

We had heavy rain every night ) the current be-
came stronger, and the river rapidly rose.

W e went next day to visit the caves whence they
get the edible birds’-nests. We pulled down in the
steamer’s cutter for about a mile, and then up a
narrow stream, till we could force her along no
farther. We now landed to walk the rest of the
way. Among our party were some who had not been
accustomed to forest work, and they came arrayed in
uniform and patent leather hoots, thinking there was
a dry and open road. Their surprise was great and
not agreeable when they found muddy ground and
the bed of a mountain torrent had to be traversed.
Our guide struck into the stream directly, and our
party broke up, some following him, while others
sought a dryer way. From the stream we entered a
thick wood of young trees ; then again across the
stream, up the bed of a mountain torrent, now partly
dry ; steep, slippery stones, some overgrown with
moss, others worn to a smooth surface ; up again,
climbing the hill, over fallen trees, down deep ravines,
across little streams, jumping from rock to rock, until
after an hour’s hard work we arrived at a little house
on the top of a hill — the neatest little house imagi-
nable, walls and floor of well-trimmed planks, and
roof of bright red shingle ; it was perfectly new, and
was the residence of the guardian of the cave.

I looked vainly about me for the entrance, and on
asking, they pointed to a deep gully, but I could see
nothing but bushes and grass ; but on descending a
short distance, I saw the bottom of the gully suddenly

NARROW ESCAPE.

115

divide, leaving a rocky chasm some thirty feet in
depth. A slight framework of ironwood enabled us
to get down over the slippery rocks, and we soon saw
that the cave extended back under the little house,
and looked gloomy and deep. Our guide now lit a
large wax taper, very inferior for this purpose to the
torches used by the Land Dayaks in Sarawak, and
led the way. The cave gradually enlarged, but by
the imperfect light we could only distinguish masses
of uneven rock on either side. As we advanced
towards those parts where the finest white nests are
found, the ground became covered many feet deep
with the guano of the swallow, which emitted scarcely
any smell. We advanced nearly two hundred yards
without seeing- a single nest, Singauding’s men having
completely cleared the cave the day before : it was
very vexing, as we desired to see the nests as they
were fixed to the rocks. The cave gradually became
narrower and lower, but we continued our advance
till we were stopped by its termination in this direc-
tion. Our guides observing our disappointment in
not finding any nests, told us that there were a few
in another branch. So we retraced our steps till
we reached a passage on our left, and presently
arrived at a spot where we descended abruptly some
twelve feet ; it was pitch dark, as the guide had gone
rapidly ahead. On reaching the bottom, I put my
foot cautiously down, and could find nothing : the
passage being very narrow I was enabled to support
myself with my hands on either side while feeling
with my feet for standing ground. There was none
in front, but on either edge there was just resting
room for the foot ; so this chasm was passed in safety.

8—2

116

TIIE KAYANS OF BARAM.

I shouted out to my companions to take care, and the
guide returning, we examined what we had escaped :
it was a black hole, into which we threw stones, and
calculating the number of seconds they took in reach-
ing the first obstruction, we found it about three
hundred feet deep. The stones bounded on the rocks
below, and we could hear them strike and strike
again, till they either reached the bottom, or till the
sound was lost in the distance.

We then advanced to a large hall, apparently sup-
ported in the middle by a massive pillar, which was
in fact but a huge stalactite. From above fell a con-
tinued shower of cold water, which doubtless was the
cause of those innumerable stalactites that adorned
the roof.

We continued advancing for about seventy or eighty
yards farther, the cave getting narrower and narrower
till two could not move abreast. Except where the
guano lay, the walking was difficult, as the rocks
were wet and excessively slippery, and open chasms
were not rare. In the farther end we were shown
the places where the best nests were obtained : the
dryest portion of the sides of the cave are chosen by
the birds, and these appeared seldom to occur — I
found but one inferior nest remaining. Disturbed by
our movements and by yesterday’s havoc, the swallows
were in great commotion, and flew round and round,
and darted so near our solitary light that we were in
great fear for its existence.

The natives say that in these caves there are two
species of birds — the one that builds the edible nest,
and another that takes up its quarters near the
entrance, and disturbs, and even attacks the more

FORMATION OF THE CAVES.

117

valuable tenants. The Kayans endeavour to destroy
these, and while we were there knocked down some
nests constructed of moss, and adhering to the rock
by a Mutinous but coarse substance. The fine edible
one looks like pure isinglass, with some amount of
roughness on its surface. The best I have seen
are four inches round the upper edge, and appear
like a portion of a whitish cup stuck against a
wall.

On examining the construction of the mountain,
one’s first impression is, that all these huge rocks
were thrown in heaps together ; but, doubtless, water
is the agent in forming these caves and the deep
fissures that penetrate to the water-line in these lime-
stone mountains.

I believe the guides took us to the smallest cave,
as I am sure, from the produce of the district, that
there must be many more better adapted for the
swallows, or else that they must be very numerous.
In fact, the guides told us that Siiigauding had
several others, and that Tamawan in right of his
wife had the best. As they showed no inclination
to take us to the uncleared caves, we did not press
them.

The person who is employed to guard this place is
a singular-looking old man ; they say they captured
him in the distant mountains during one of their
expeditions. lie speaks a language unknown to
them, but is now learning a little Kayan ; he looks
very contented, and has certainly the neatest house I
have seen in Borneo for his dwelling.

On our return it rained a little, and we had, in
many places, to sit and slide down the slippery

118

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

rocks ; we all looked, on our return from our expe-
dition, in a very different condition from that in
which we started.

Singauding came in the afternoon to pay me a visit,
and brought with him Si Awang Lawi, the principal
chief among the Iviniahs ; he appeared a frank old
man. They stayed for some time with me talking
over various subjects connected with trade. He was
very intelligent, and pressing that I should go and
visit his people ; but it was beyond my power. He
told me, also, that a Kay an, one of a party of several
hundred head hunters, had returned half starved, and
reported that he was the only survivor. There was
much mourning in the upper villages.

I may mention that these men have become so very
conceited that they consider themselves superior to
all except ourselves ; and, in their pride, they have
actually commenced killing the swallow, that consti-
tutes their wealth, saying it becomes a great chief to
feed on the most valuable things he possesses, regard-
less of the ultimate consequences.

To-morrow being fixed for our departure, I have
been requested to pay Si Obong, Tamawan’s wife, a
visit. I found her residing in a temporary house,
awaiting the completion of the great residence that
was rising rapidly, and whose progress we could watch
from the ship.

Si Obong was seated on fine mats, and was sur-
rounded by various cushions. She had passed her
first youth, and had become very stout ; in fact, her
limbs were much too large for a woman. She wore
little clothing — a couple of English handkerchiefs,
still in one piece, put round her hips, hanging down,

VISIT TO SI OBONG.

119

and tucked in at the side, and over her bosom she
occasionally threw a loose black cloth. Her face was
round, good-tempered, but rather coarse ; her voice
was gentle, and she wore her long black hair hanging-
loose, hut kept off her face by fillets of white bark.
The most curious part of her costume is what I must
call a hip-lace of beads, consisting of three strings,
one of yellow beads ; the next of varied colours, more
valuable ; and the third of several hundred of those
much-prized ones by the Ivayan ladies. It is difficult
to describe a bead so as to show its peculiarities. At
my request, she took off her hip-lace and handed it
to me ; the best appeared like a body of black stone,
with four other variegated ones let in around. It
wras only in appearance that they were let in ; the
colours of these four marks were a mixture of green,
yellow, blue, and gray.

Were I to endeavour to estimate the price in pro-
duce she and her parents had paid for this hip-lace,
the amount would appear fabulous. She showed me
one for which they had given eleven pounds’ weight
of the finest birds’ nests, or, at the Singapore market
price, thirty-five pounds sterling. She had many of
a value nearly equal, and she wore none that had
not cost her nine shillings.

She was the only daughter of a chief of the highest
extraction, and Tamawan owed the principal share
of his influence, and perhaps all his wealth, to her.
The caves he possessed were hers, and she had been
won by the fame of his warlike expeditions and the
number of heads that were suspended around his
house. There is no doubt that the Baram Kayans
are less desirous of heads than they were, and prefer

120

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

slaves who can cultivate their farms, and thus increase
their fortune and consideration.

Tamawan complained bitterly that his strength was
leaving him, that his body was becoming of no use,
and that I must give him medicine to restore him.
I promised him a few tonics, at the same time pointed
out to him that he was suffering from rheumatism,
caught whilst sleeping in the jungle during his last
expedition ; recommended him to stay at home, to
wear more clothing, to drink less ardent spirit, and
not indulge so much in fat pork.

Si Obong offered me refreshments in the shape of
arrack and preserved fruit, but of neither did she
herself partake. I noticed two of her attendants,
who were really pretty, being blessed with well-
shaped noses and mouths, a rarity among the natives
of Borneo. They both sat silent and did not ex-
change a word, hut were ready to obey the slightest
call of their mistress.

Si Obong had her arms much tatooed, and she
was also ornamented in that manner from just under
the hip joint to three inches below the knee. This
could be observed, as her dress opened at the side.
She showed me in what way she employed her time ;
among other things, she had made a rattan seat,
covered with fine bead-work, for her expected baby.
When the women go out, the child is placed in this,
which is slung over the hack. The baskets around,
which were filled with her clothes, were also her
handiwork, and were carefully made, and likewise
ornamented with innumerable small Venetian beads.
There appeared no want of goods here, as they were
heaped in all directions ; among other things I

FAREWELL VISIT.

121

noticed were an old English lamp, lialf-a-dozen tum-
blers, four bottles of brandy, a brass kettle, and
cooking pots.

After sitting there about a couple of hours, I took
my leave and returned on board ; and then sent Si
Obong what I thought would please her, in the shape
of a silver spoon, a silver fruit-knife, some gaudy
handkerchiefs, looking-glasses, and other trifles. The
silver articles, I heard, greatly delighted her.

The chiefs all came on board to make their fare-
well visit, and they were eager that I should spend
my last evening with them ; they carried me off, and
talking was kept up till a musket shot from the ship
gave notice that a few fireworks were about to be let
olfi. The whole assemblage of several hundreds hur-
ried to the river’s bank, tumbling over each other in
their eagerness.

The rockets and blue lights filled them with asto-
nishment and delight ; the former as warlike instru-
ments with which they could defeat their enemies,
and the latter because, they said, it turned night into
day. I stayed with them till ten, and promised, if
possible, to return and spend a few months with them.
On no other condition was I to be suffered to depart.
They hinted that, united, we could soon possess the
neighbouring countries between us.

Singauding sent me, to-day, a sword made with
his own hands, a war dress of tiger-cat skin, a head-
dress of the same material, with a long feather of the
Argus pheasant stuck into it. The peculiarity of
the Kayan sword is that it is concave on the upper
side, and convex below, and is made either right-
handed or left-handed. It is a dangerous instrument

122

THE KAYANS OF BARAM.

in the hands of the inexperienced ; for if you cut
down on the left side of a tree with a right-handed
sword, it will fly off* in the most eccentric manner ;
but, well used, it inflicts very deep wounds, and will
cut through young trees better than any other instru-
ment. I sent, as a return present, a heavy cavalry
sword ; in fact, I wTas nearly exhausted of the means
of making presents.

I may remark that their iron ore appears to be
easily melted. They dig a small pit in the ground ;
in the bottom are various holes, through which are
driven currents of air by very primitive bellows.
Charcoal is thrown in ; then the ore, well broken up,
is added and covered with charcoal ; fresh ore and
fresh fuel, in alternate layers, till the furnace is
filled. A light is then put to the mass through a
hole below, and, the wind being driven in, the process
is soon completed.

To-day we nearly had a serious accident : one of
the quartermasters, in getting into a canoe, fell into
the stream, which, swelled by the heavy rains, was
running swiftly by; he was carried away in a moment,
but the Kayans were instantly after, and brought him
back safe, though half-choked with water.

At sunrise we started on our return. All the in-
habitants of the town assembled on the river’s bank
to witness our departure. The steamer turned with
ease, and was swept with great speed down the stream.
We took a native trading vessel in tow, which assisted
our steering, and reached the mouth on the follow-
insf day without the slightest accident.

I hear that the exclamations of the Kayans, when
they first perceived the steamer rounding the point,

KAYANS CANNIBALS.

123

were — “ Here is a god come among us ! ” others
cried, “ It is a mighty spirit ! ”

The latitude of the town is 3° 30' ; the longitude,
114° 40'.

I regret I was never again enabled to visit the

o O

Baram River, as, besides the personal gratification
derived, there is a great public good done, by a con-
stant friendly surveillance over the aborigines. Many
of the Kayans returned my visit to Labuan, but I was
absent ; it was not, however, material, as they were
well treated by the colonial officers.

Whilst in Baram I could hear nothing to confirm
the account that any of the Kayans were cannibals.
We first heard the charge against them from three
Dayaks of the tribe of Sibaru, whose residence is on
the Kapuas River, in the district of Santang, under
Dutch influence. I was present when they were care-
fully questioned, and, though their information has
already appeared, I will repeat the substance.

They said that their tribe and a party of Kayans
attacked, unsuccessfully, a small Malay village ; but,
in the fright, the body of one of their enemies was
secured. Their allies immediately sliced off the flesh
and put it away in their side baskets ; and in the
evening, while all the party were preparing their
supper, they brought out the human flesh, and roasted
and eat it. They saw it themselves. The Dayaks
of Jangkang, on the Skeium, between the districts
of the Sarawak and Dutch territories, arc universally
accused of cannibalism.

I do not remember having heard any other persons
actually affirm that they had seen the Kayans eat
human flesh, till the subject was brought up last year

12-1

TI1E KAYANS OF BARAM*

before the present Sultan of Borneo and his court ;
when Usup, one of the young nobles present, said
that in 1855 some Muka men were executed at Bin-
tulu, and that a few of the Kayans, who had assisted
in their capture, took portions of the bodies of the
criminals, roasted and ate them. This was wit-
nessed by himself and many others who were then
present. The Kayans had not, as a body, joined in
this disgusting feast ; but, perhaps, some of the more
ferocious may practise it to strike terror into their
enemies.

The account given by the Malays of the former
system of trade pursued by the Kayans is curious.
They say that when a native merchant arrived at the
landing-place of a village, the chief settled the terms
with him, and all the goods were carried up to the
houses, and placed in a prepared spot, secure from
pilferers. For a week no business was done, but the
stranger and his followers were feasted at the public
expense. After that, the goods were brought out
and spread in the public room, and the prices fixed.
The chief selected what he wanted, and the next in
rank in rotation, till all the villagers were satisfied.
Three months’ credit was always given, but at the
appointed day the produce in exchange was ready for
the trader. I imagine the Malavs would be glad to
return to the old system.

The Kayans were seldom very welcome guests at
a small village, helping themselves freely to every-
thing that took their fancy ; but this only occurred,
as a Malay shrewdly observed, in places where they
were feared.

CHAPTER IV.

THE LAND DAYAKS.

Visit to the Left-hand Branch of the Sarawak River — Attack of
Peguans — Sarawak River— Capture of English Ship — The
Durian Fruit — Iron-wood Posts — Rapids — Rapid of the Corpse
— Mountains — Village of San Pro — Lovely Scenery — Head-
house — Cave — Upper Cave — Unfortunate Boast — Pushing up
the Rapids — Story of the Datu Tamanggong — Invulnerable
Men — How to become one — Grung Landing-place — Sibungoh
Dayaks — Dayak Canoes — Lovely Scenery — Uses of the Bambu
— Fish — Sharks in the Upper Waters — Repartee — Pigs Swim-
ming— Farmhouses in Trees — Floods — Suspension Bridges —
Chinese Traders — Dress of Land Dayaks — System of Forced
Trade — Interesting Tribe — Story of the Murder of Pa Mua —
The Trial — Painful Scene — Delightful Bathing — Passing the
Rapids — Walk to Grung — Dayak Paths— Village of Grung —
Warm Reception — Ceremonies — Lingua Franca — Peculiar
Medicine — Prayer — Sacred Dance — Sprinkling Blood — Effect
of former System of Government — Language.

I had already made many visits among the Dayaks,
but had never penetrated to the interior waters of
the Sarawak river. I was, therefore, quite ready
to accept Captain Brooke’s invitation to accompany
him on the tour of inspection he was about to make
among the Land Dayaks of the left-hand branch
of the Sarawak. As the stream is full of rapids, our
crew was selected of Sarawak men, well acquainted
with the peculiar navigation. I may here remark
that there is something characteristic about the true
Sarawak man : his look is eminently respectable, his

126

THE LAND DAYAKS.

face is longer and more marked than that of the
other Malays, his complexion often darker, his
manners quiet and respectful. There is a tradition
current in this country, that once upon a time, the
capital of Sarawak was at Santubong, the western
entrance of the river ; that during the absence of the
men on an expedition up the country, some maraud-
ing Peguans arrived there in their ships, and on find-
ing the defenceless state of the town attacked it,
carried it by assault, and made off with their spoils
and innumerable female prisoners. The Sarawak
men fortunately returned a few hours after, and
instantly gave chase. Their fast war boats soon over-
took the clumsy Pegu ships. They made short work
of it : killed the marauding chiefs and brought back
the rest prisoners to Santubong. The Samarahan
and some of the Sarawak men are said to be
descended from them, and this, if true, may account for
the darker complexion.

The Sarawak river is not navigable for ships far
above the town, though at the height of the flood
a large vessel was once taken fifteen miles above it
to a place called Ledah Tanah. This occurred some
thirty years ago. A large English ship, laden with
sugar, put into the mouth of the Sarawak river for
water. The captain and mates were invited to meet
the rajahs of the country. They went on shore,
where they were informed that their vessel was too
leaky to proceed on her voyage, but that they would
be provided with a passage to Singapore in one of the
native prahus. Resistance was useless. They were
surrounded by hundreds of armed men, and were
hurried off to sea immediately to be murdered at

DURIAN FRUIT.

127

the first island. The Lascar crew were detained
as slaves. Two of them were still alive when I
first reached Sarawak. Many of the Malays have told
me that sugar never was so plentiful in their houses
either before or since. The banks of the river on
either side continue low, and are adapted in their
present state for rice cultivation, though with a little
drainage, the Chinese can render the soil admirably
suited for sugar-cane and other cultivations. It is a
pretty but monotonous pull, the scenery being only
occasionally varied by views of the surrounding
mountains.

We passed the first night at Ledah Tanah, or
Tongue of Land, the point of junction of the two
branches of the river. Here the Rajah had a cattle
farm, and a pretty cottage surrounded by fruit trees,
principally of magnificent durians. This fruit is the
subject of much controversy. It varies in size from
a six to sixty-eight pounder shot, and looks like an
enormous chestnut, with its prickly outer coating on.
On opening this rough rind, we find five or six rows
of seeds covered with a white or yellow pulpy sub-
stance, which tastes and smells like a custard strongly
flavoured with onions, or, to those who delight in it,
it is of a delicious and unapproachable flavour, and,
when perfectly fresh, has a pleasing perfume. These
different opinions arc given at the same moment, by
different persons describing the same fruit.

W hen the people abandoned Santubong, they
retired to Ledah Tanah, where they established their
town ; the posts of some of their houses still remain,
being of iron-wood, which may be said practically to
last for ever.

128

THE LAND DAYAKS.

We continued our course up the river, the cha-
racter of the scenery becoming more interesting every
moment. The stream narrows, the water is clearer,
shallower, and its course is interrupted by rocks and
large stones, over which the stream foams, dashes,
breaks, rendering the passage dangerous for small
boats ; indeed, the name of one of these rapids,
Iihium Bangkei — “The Rapid of the Corpse” —
would seem to prove that fatal accidents do occur.
The swamping of a boat, or the loss of goods, by
inexperienced hands, is not I’are.

Tiie first mountain we passed was that of Stat,
which, though not more than 1,500 feet high, is in
many respects remarkable, rising abruptly from the
low country, a real isolated peak that may be distin-
guished even out at sea ; from one view it appears
like the end of a bent finger. In common with most
of the limestone mountains in Borneo, it presents bare,
perpendicular surfaces, with jagged rocks at the edges,
but surrounded by vegetation, and that vegetation
growing where soil can scarcely be supposed to exist ;
in fact, the roots of the trees penetrate far into the
inner portion of the mountain, through deep fissures
and clefts. The other mountains visible during our
progress to-day had the same general features, par-
ticularly the two which rise near the village of San
Pro, where we intended to pass the night.

In our evening walk w7e were much struck with
the remarkable beauty of this place ; the two lofty
and almost perpendicular mountains rise abruptly
on either side of the river, leaving but a strip of
land on the water’s edge. One called Sibayat towers
above the village on the left bank ; the other,

VILLAGE OF SAN PRO.

Si Bigi, is on the opposite side ; the river, now
running through limestone, sparkles clear at their
feet, undermining the rocks on either side, and form-
ing fantastic little caves, crowned above with noble
overhanging trees. Abrupt turns, short reaches, and
pebbly beds added to the beauty of the scene, and,
just as the last rays of the sun were gilding the
summits of the twin peaks, we sat down on the huge
trunk of a fallen tree, which the Hoods of the rainy
season had swept down from the interior, and half
buried in the sand and pebbles. There we remained
till the shades of evening had completely closed in
around us, speculating on the probable future of the
country, and the words almost rose simultaneously to
our lips — were we missionaries, we would fix our
houses here. With my own idea of what a missionary
should do, there could be no better spot than San
Tro to commence operations. The village was not
large, but it is better completely to gain over twenty
families, than exhaust one’s energies merely skimming
over the surface of a dozen tribes, leaving -no perma-
nent impression. We fixed on the best locality for
a house, a trim garden, a diminutive church, and a
school. It is a soil that would repay culture.

We were not fortunate in the time of our visit, as
most of the people were away preparing their farms.
We took up our residence in the head-house, which,
however, was destitute of the usual ornaments. It
was quite new. All head-houses have the same
appearance, being built on high posts above the
ground, and in a circular form, with a sharp conical
roof. The windows are, in fact, a large portion of
the roof, being raised up, like the lid of a desk,

VOL. i. 9

130

THE LAND DAYAKS.

during fine weather, and supported by props ; but
when rain or night comes on, they arc removed, and
the whole appearance is snug in the extreme, parti-
cularly when a bright fire is lit in the centre, and
throws a fitful glow on all the surrounding objects.
Around the room arc rough divans, on which the
men usually sit or sleep, but that night, there being a
cold wind and a drizzling rain, a good fire was kept
up, and the people crowded near. I awoke at about
two, and put my head out of my curtains to look
at a night-scene : a dozen of the old men were there
collected close over the fire, smoking the tobacco we
had given them, and discoursing in a low' tone about
us. The flames occasionally shot up brilliantly and
showed me the curious group, and then, as they faded
away, nothing hut the outlines of the half-naked old
men could he seen cowering over the embers, as a
ruder blast or a heavier shower brought the cold wind
upon them.

Started early in the morning. The limestone rock,
undermined in every direction, was worn into very
singular shapes. Occasionally the tall trees, finding
insufficient support, had broken from the bank, and
slipped their roots into the river, to be completely
washed away by next flood. At ten, brought up on
a pebbly beach for breakfast, opposite a little cave,
about which the Dayaks have as usual a story — this
time an indelicate one. Continuing our course, we
reached the mountain of Rumbang, remarkable for
its curious caves. AVe had brought guides with us
from San Pro, and stopping at the nearest point
went ashore, and after a walk and climb of a few
hundred yards, reached the entrance of the first cave.

THE RUMBANG CAVES.

131

Descending over a few rough stones, we found our-
selves in the interior, through which a small stream
makes its way. Having lighted a candle and a torch,
we advanced — now fording the brook, now jumping
over it: the floor is principally pebbly, though occa-
sionallv we met with soft sand and slippery rock. The
cave itself has no remarkable feature, but is never-
theless interesting. Its height varied between thirty,
forty, and fifty feet — -its exit beautiful in rugged feature
in a soft light, which subdued the uncouth shapes
of the rocks, and rendered them striking and pleasing
to the eye. This we particularly noticed on our
return, when we approached the entrance. Then the
light played on the surface of the stream, as it
bubbled onward in its course, and the reflection
slightly illuminated the surrounding features, remind-
ing me of a robber’s cave in a dissolving view.

To-day we only penetrated through the mountain
and looked at the country beyond, a restricted view,
as the jungle closely hemmed round the cave : after-
wards I heard that we need not have returned the
way we came, but that if we did not fear a steep
climb, there was a cavern exactly above the one we
had come through that would lead us back to the
river — in fact, an upper tunnel. We thought at first
it must be a joke of the Dayaks, but they assured us
of the truth : so we told them to lead the way. It
was difficult, in fact very difficult, until we came to
an overhanging rock, against which a long pole leant
with an occasional cross-piece ; at the top was another
overhanging one, round which it was necessary to
psss by leaning the body over the abyss, and trusting
entirely to our hands and to the strength of the

9—2

132

THE LAND DAYAKS.

roots. The Dayak guide led the way, and as we
approached this difficulty we observed him smile. It
was at an unfortunate boast. When we first proposed
to make the ascent, our guide observed — “ No one
but a Dayak can go up there.” I unfortunately
answered, “ Wherever a Dayak can go, an English-
man can follow.” Hence his smile. lie proceeded
cautiously, as these rough ladders are often rotten,
and, it is said, occasionally left unfastened to entrap an
unwary thief, who may desire to pilfer the edible
swallows’ nests found in the upper caves. When be
bad reached the summit, be invited me to follow ;
there was no help for it, so I tried ; the pole was no
great difficulty, but the rounding the overhanging
rock with my body leaning over the abyss tested my
strength and nerve ; one of the party followed, the
other thought it wiser to return by the way be came.
It repaid us, however; the cave, though not lofty,
was full of large chambers, of narrow passages,
and occasionally of huge chasms penetrating to the
depths below. They said the whole mountain was
perforated by these galleries. Our return to the
boat was difficult, as we had to force our way through
the tangled hushes, and over ground unknown even
to the Dayaks. We found our companion seated in
the boat, discussing some cool claret and water, and
as lie beheld us coming in tired, hot, covered with
dirt, and with clothes half torn from our bodies, I
fear he did not envy us.

Our men had now to drop their paddles once at
least in every reach, and to seize their poles and force
us along up the gradually lengthening rapids ; the
motion of the boat thus propelled is exceedingly

THE DATU TUMANGGONG.

133

pleasant ; at one spot we noticed a Dayak suspension-
bridge that spanned the river above a dangerous
rapid. Kasim, a favourite follower, turned to us
and said, “ It was here that the Datu Tumanggong
nearly lost his life.” We asked how. I will let
Kasim relate his story ; it is an illustration of
Bornean ways.

The Datu Tumanggong is the chief third in rank
in Sarawak, and was in his early days known as a
successful pirate. He was also the terror of the
Dayaks. Many years before Sir James Brooke
arrived, be had for some cause killed a Dayak of the
tribe of Si-Bungoh, in those davs not considered a
deed requiring particular notice ; but on this occasion
the tribe determined to be revenged. The next time
the Datu was known to be on bis way up the river,
the Dayaks assembled in great numbers round the
suspension-bridge, concealing themselves among the
trees. Unsuspicious of the ambuscade, the chief,
with twenty Malay followers, was endeavouring to
pole up the rapid, when a shower of spears threw
them into confusion; the Datu was principally aimed
at, his umbrella was torn to shreds, and he was
wounded severely about the shoulders. The men
dropping their poles, allowed the boat to get across
the stream, and she was instantly upset ; while they,
unable to see their enemies, scattered themselves in
every direction, and hiding among the rocks shouted
to their chief to fire. They say he stood his ground
manfully, and fired twice without success at his foes,
who, thus emboldened, drew nearer. The water was
rushing down with great force and reached over his
knees, which rendered the operation of loading

134

THE LAND DAVAKS.

extremely difficult, but bis third shot was fortunate,
for bringing down the boldest Dayak, it created a
panic among the rest. On collecting his followers,
he found two killed and several wounded, among the
latter one of our present boatmen. I have often
heard the Datu tell the story since with great glee,
his voice rising, and going through all his remembered
movements with wonderful spirit. “Ah, I was young
in those days.”

There is a very singular belief prevalent among
the Malays — it is this, that men, by going through
certain ceremonies, can render themselves invulner-
able. The Datu, notwithstanding the many wounds
he has received, is still popularly believed to be so.
They generally say that these men can never have
their skin cut by any sharp instrument, and the offer
to test the truth by the application of a razor is not
considered polite. The old Datu has often said — “ It
is as well that the vulgar should believe it. though
we know better.”

The favourite spot chosen by the novitiates was in
the jungle at the back of Sir James Brooke’s former
house, between two little streams, called the greater
and lesser Bedil (a brass gun). The aspirant was
required to remain three days alone in the wroods
without speaking to a soul ; to live very sparingly,
and not to indulge in the favourite luxuries of tobacco,
sirih and betel. If on the third day he dreamt of a
beautiful spirit descending to speak to him, he might
consider that his work was accomplished. Patah, the
Datu’s son, a fine, bold and good fellow, told me he
had tried twice, but the fairy had never appeared
to him.

TIIE SIBUNGOII DAYAKS.

135

On reaching the landing-place leading to the
Grung village, we found a large party of Dayaks
assembled, who begged us to remain and visit their
houses; hut instead, we promised to return in a few
days, and meet the representatives of the neighbour-
ing tribes at their village. We now pushed on to the
Sibungoh Dayaks, who inhabited the river’s bank ;
but on our stopping at the landing-place, an old man
came down to sav that the long house before us was
pamali or tabooed, and that the Orang Kaya was
himself in that unenviable predicament. So we
pulled across the river and took up our quarters near
a pebbly beach ; the men making temporary mat huts,
while we stayed in the boat. In the course of the
evening, a number of the elders of the neighbouring
village houses of the same tribe came down to see us,
and promised to provide small canoes and Dayaks to
take us up the stream, as it had become too shallow
to allow of our continuing in the large boat.

At six the Sibungoh Davaks brought the light
canoes with which we were to continue our progress
up the river. We left all our crew behind, taking
with us only our personal servants and Kasim. It
was quite a little procession. Each canoe contained
hut two Dayaks and one passenger. We started, and
were poled up at a rapid pace against the stream.
Our canoes were small, drawing but a few inches of
water, and were managed, as I have said, by two
Dayaks, one standing at the stem, the other at the
stern ; with long bamboos in their hands, they im-
pelled us forward at a great pace.

The scenery varied much ; occasionally we passed
beneath high hills, which rose smilingly above us,

136

TIIE LAND DAYAKS.

clothed to the summit with vegetation; Bornean hills
seldom frown, their clothing is too luxuriant, their
aspect generally free from harsh outlines, even their
precipices have some softening feature. On we
passed, sometimes a long reach stretched before us,
completely overshadowed by trees whose branches
entwining from bank to hank completely sheltered us
from the sun, then reclining on our pillows we could
indulge in snatches from the Quarterly or Edinburgh.
Could the authors of some of the articles hut imagine
the variety of situations in which their effusions would
he perused, could they anticipate the delight they
inspire in the British traveller who works his way
onwards even towards the interior of Borneo, they
would, I think, he surprised and gratified. The
magazines and reviews are the solaces of educated
exiles in all positions. From these soft scenes and
pleasant employments, we were constantly aroused hy
our approach to roaring rapids, which foaming over
scattered rocks threatened destruction to our frail
canoes ; hut the skill of the Dayak was never at fault,
we passed every obstruction without an accident. At
these rapids, as at those before mentioned, boats arc
often lost.

As we approached the country of the Senah tribe,
the hanks became more uniform in appearance, and
the bamboo constantly formed the principal vegeta-
tion : these bamboos are wonderfully useful to the
Dayaks, and are turned to many purposes. In height
they sometimes exceed sixty feet. During this tour
I have seen them used, stretched in lengths, for
paths, placed notched for steps up steep ascents,
as railings for rice fields and yam gardens, as posts

THE SEN AH DAYAKS.

137

for houses ; split they form the floors, beaten out they
are the walls of many of the dwellings, and neat and
pretty they look ; cut into lengths, water is carried in
them ; joined together they form aqueducts that stretch
for hundreds of yards ; with them the Dayaks can
strike a light ; and last, not least, they are used to
cook rice in — they are hard enough to stand the fire
until the food be ready to eat. They are put to
numerous other uses, but the above enumeration is
sufficient.

The Senah Dayaks plant yams to a great extent ;
they grow to a large size, and boiled have an excellent
flavour, whether used as a vegetable or a salad. These
Dayaks are called rich from the abundance of their
rice, which flourishes in their fertile valleys, but more
is chiefly owing to their industry ; we saw many
instances of the latter in their fishing apparatus,
which was often very extensive ; while the tribes
lower down, with better opportunities, seemed quite to
neglect their fisheries. Our men unfortunately have
brought no casting net with them, so we are obliged
to he content to hear from the Malays that the flavour
of the fresh-water fish caught here is excellent. It is
a curious fact, that far as we are above the influence
of the flood tide, and with so many rapids below us,
yet sharks are found here in the fresh water. I call
it a fact because native testimony is unanimous. I
remember hearing Mr. Crookshank say to the Datu
Patinggi, the principal native chief, that he considered
it a very curious thing that a fish, supposed to live
only in the sea, should frequent these interior waters.

“ Not at all,” answered the Datu, “ not more
curious than seeing you Englishmen abandon your

138

THE LAND DAYAKS.

own country to come so far and live among us
Malays.”

As a general rule, the sharks and alligators do not
meddle with human beings up here, hut confine their
attention to the fish, the dogs, and the numerous
droves of wild pigs constantly passing from one bank
to the other. During the fruit season the movement
among these last is very remarkable ; Mr. Brereton
told me he once saw at least three hundred in one
drove crossing the river Batang Lupar, where it
was above seven hundred yards broad. I have often
seen them myself in lesser numbers ; on one occasion
I was present when seventeen were killed, which
formed a regular feast for some aborigines who secured
the bodies. Generally a fine old boar leads the way,
and is followed very closely by the rest. They grow
to a great size ; I have seen one carefully measured,
his height at the shoulder was forty-two inches, and
the length of head was twenty-two.

The Senahs have built many of their farm-houses
in the trees overhanging the stream : in one was a
whole family engaged in the important operation of
preparing dinner ; and it was amusing to observe the
little children coming fearlessly to the very edge of
the platform above the rushing stream to look at us,
standing in positions so dangerous that they would
drive an English mother distracted.

As we approach the interior of the Sarawak river,
the mountains become more lofty, and the stream
takes the character of a torrent ; after heavy rains it
rises suddenly and to a great height. I have seen
grass left by the receding waters at least forty feet
above our present level. Even after one heavy shower,

SUSPENSION BRIDGES.

139

all the fords arc Impassable, so that to avoid this
inconvenience the Senah Dayaks have thrown lofty
bridges across, to facilitate their communication
between their several villages.

How light and elegant do these suspension-bridges
look — one in particular I will attempt to describe.
It was a broad part of the stream, and two fine
old trees hung over the water opposite each other ;
long bamboos well lashed together formed the main
portion, and were fastened by smaller ones to the
branches above ; railings on either side were added to
give greater strength and security, yet the whole affair
appeared so flimsy, and was so far above the stream,
that when we saw a woman and child pass over it, we
drew our breath till they were safe on the other side.
And yet we knew they were secure.

I have often passed over them myself; they are
of the width of one bamboo, but the side railings
give one confidence. Accidents do happen from
carelesslv allowing the rattan lashings to rot. Once
when pressed for time I was passing rapidly across
with many men following close behind me, when it
began to sway most unpleasantly, and crack, crack
was heard as several of the supports gave way. Most
of my men fortunately were not near the centre, and
relieved the bridge of their weight by clinging to
the branches, otherwise those who were with me in
the middle would have been precipitated on the rocks
far below. After that we always passed singly over
such neglected bridges.

Towards the afternoon we reached the first house,
inhabited by the Orang Kaya’s vounger brother. This
tribe is more scattered than is usually the case here,

140

THE LAi'.’D DAYAKS.

four, six, eight families live together; and we nowhere
noticed those immense long village houses so common
in other tribes.

We found some Chinese trading for pigs and rice,
one of whom had been established in this place for
about six years. The house where we stopped for
the night was tolerably comfortable, with the walls
roughly planked. It is evident that these Dayaks
are very pleased to see us, and upon their pressing
invitations we have agreed to stay some days to give
time for the whole tribe to be collected.

In the evening we took a long walk over the steep
hills at the back of the village, and had a fair view
of Penrisen, one of the highest mountains in Sarawak.
It is estimated at above 5,000 feet. It is scarcely in
Sarawak, as a portion of its southern face belongs
to those countries beyond the border claimed by the
Dutch. We had a good view of the interior of the
Sadong country, a fine succession of hill and dale,
with blue mountains in the distance.

We stayed in the house nearly the whole day, as
the Dayaks wished to dance and feast in our presence.
The gongs were kept going, the drums beaten, and
all within five yards of us, until our heads were dizzy.
Occasionally, from sheer weariness, or from anxiety to
partake of the good things produced for the feast,
this din would cease, and then we could enter into
conversation with the elders.

The dress of the Dayaks is very simple ; the men
wear the chawat, a strip of cloth round their loins ;
a jacket and head-dress, the last sometimes of bark,
and fantastically put on ; their ornaments are brass
rings, necklaces of beads and sometimes of tiger-cat’s

SYSTEM OF FORCED TRADE.

141

teeth, and very neat plaited rings of rattan, stained
black. The women have a short petticoat reaching
from the hips to the knees, a jacket, and round their
waists a band, often ten inches wide, of bark or
bamboo, kept together by brass wire or rattans. It
tits tight, and is only removed on the woman becoming
pregnant.

Captain Brooke’s principal object in making this
tour was to inquire into the complaints which had
been brought against the Data Patinggi of forcing
the Dayak tribes to deal with him, whether they
wanted his goods or not, and insisting upon fixing
his own price on the articles supplied. The com-
plaints were more than substantiated ; even the
Chinese were unable to procure rice, and were forced
to content themselves with the pig trade.

This was the Datu’s system : he sent up a cha-
nang, a kind of small "on" much esteemed bv the
Dayaks, and ordered them to buy it at an exorbitant
rate ; before they had paid for that he sent another,
keeping up a constant supply to prevent them trading
with other people. When lie heard that another
Malay had sold a chanang in fair trade to these
Dayaks, lie would instantly send two more and force
them to receive them, lie had done the same with
regard to salt, and to the clothes of both male and
female, striving to his utmost to secure a monopoly.
In this path he was followed by all his relations
and connexions, their threats bullied and terrified
the Dayaks, who loudly complained also of being
used as beasts of burden without receiving hire.

The Senahs are altogether an interesting tribe ; in
manner the men are more polite ; the women are

142

TIIE LAND DAYAKS.

fuller of life ; some of the girls were pretty, their
best age being six to sixteen, after that they begin to
fall off. They appear to marry very young, and have
for Asiatics rather large families — four, five, and six
children were quite common. Some of the old gentle-
men observed that, though they were only allowed to
marry one wife, yet they were not strictly faithful to
her if a favourable opportunity occurred, which obser-
vation seemed much to amuse the assembly.

Among the women was the widow of a Dayak,
whose story is well worth relating as illustrative of
their character and of their ways. lie was a fine,
handsome man, certainly the most handsome Dayak
I have ever seen, tall and powerfully made, with a
bold, open countenance ; he was called Pa Bunang.
The Orang Kaya of the Scnalis took a liking to
him, and having no children adopted and found him
a wife among his own relations. She wTas a nice-
looking girl, plump and well made. In former
times the husband had been much noticed by
Europeans, and in the pride of his heart deter-
mined to be the first man in the tribe : the only
one lie thought likely to oppose his pretensions was
Pa Mua, the Orang Ixaya’s brother, who would
not allow him to interfere in public affairs, and
opposed his pretensions to superiority, in which
he was supported by the sympathies of the whole
community. Pa Bunang then determined on more
violent methods than he had yet practised ; he left
the tribe for a few days and returned with the
announcement that the Sarawak Government was so
pleased with him, that they intended to make him
a great man in the tribe. Resolving to get rid

STORY OF THE MURDER OF PA MU A.

143

of his rival, he lay in wait for him one day in a
by-path, concealing' himself carefully behind some
bushes ; the unsuspecting Pa Mua passed by, when
he sprang upon him, and with one blow of his sword
laid him dead at his feet, and then rushed into the
jungle, thinking he had done the deed unnoticed, but
at the moment of striking, the son of the murdered
man came round the turning of the path in time to
witness the act and to recognize the culprit. The
alarm was given, and before the man could reach the
Orang Kaya’s house, where his wife and child resided,
a menacing crowd had assembled. lie coolly assured
them that lie was acting under the orders of the
Sarawak Government, and was now going to report
the accomplishment of the deed. Though the people
did not believe him, they suffered him to depart with
his family, but followed closely in his track. They
denounced him, he was instantly seized, thrown into
prison, and after ten days, to allow witnesses to
assemble, the affair came on before the Sarawak
Court.

It was so curious a case that I determined to he
present at the trial. I found the court crowded, at
least a dozen Englishmen were assembled, who, with
the Malay chiefs, acted as a kind of jury. Though
the case was clear in many respects, yet the greatest
pains were taken to obtain the best evidence : the son
of the murdered man was present, but it was at first
feared from the preliminary inquiries, that he would
be afraid to give his evidence before the prisoner.
When he was called into court the lad appeared
perfectly changed ; he gave his evidence with a cool-
ness, a precision, and yet with an intensity that

TIIE LAND DA YAKS.

144

nothing but the deepest feelings could excite ; he
never faltered once, hut wound up his story by point-
ing to the prisoner and saying, “ My father was killed
by that man.” The prisoner could offer no defence ;
at first he denied the deed, then said that Pa Mua
had seduced his wife, then confessed and implored for
mercy. The verdict was unanimous, and he was con-
demned to death. A fearful scene now took place ;
the constables had very improperly allowed the wife
and child to sit close beside him, and he had, while
the lad was giving his evidence, unnoticed by any, got
his little child to crawl in between his manacled
arms. When he heard the sentence he threw himself
on his knees and begged in piteous terms for mercy,
but finding it was useless he declared his wife and
child should die with him ; he first struck at the
former and then tried to strangle the little thing
between his arms, and failing in that, while struggling
with the police, he fixed his teeth so tightly in the
child’s neck that they had to be forced open with the
point of a drawn sword. 1 1 is wife fled, and the child
was saved, but he continued to struggle, and his roars
could be heard until he was secured in his cell. I
never witnessed a more painful scene. A marked
contrast to that of the Malay who, calm and placid
to the last moment, receives his condemnation with
the observation, “ It is your sentence,” and walks
quietly to prison and to execution.

The evening was spent in dancing, singing, and
drinking, until the fun waxed fast and furious.

The next station up the river is San Piub, which
we did not visit, as business prevented our extending
our tour. We were delighted with the position of the

PASSING TIIE RAPIDS.

145

house in which wc were staying ; it was on the hank
of the stream, here but a foot deep, occasionally not
even six inches, so that the canoes had to he dragged
over the pebbly bottom. The water coming from the
neighbouring high mountains is both clear and cool,
offering delightful places for bathing. In one large
and deep pool, a little below the landing-place, the
Dayaks say alligators congregate ; but if so, they
must be harmless, as I saw very little children bath-
ing there ; but yet I did not venture, as they might
have been attracted by the unusual colour of my
skin. The baths we obtain in the interior are of
themselves worth the exertion of reaching those
sequestered spots ; the refreshing and invigorating
feeling after a plunge into the cool stream is indeed
delightful.

About midday we parted from our kind hosts, not
before we had given solemn promises to return
again as soon as possible, and now directed our faces
homeward. The descent of the river was exciting,
now leisurely suffering the canoe to float with the
stream ; then, as the distant roar announced a rapid,
intelligent were the movements of the Dayaks, as they
chose the least dangerous part, the waters increasing
in speed as we approached the fall ; then caught by
the stream, we hurried along at the pace of a race-
horse, and dashing through the foam were shot into
the tranquil pool that generally forms below a rapid.
At one wc were compelled to take out all our baggage,
and the non-swimmers walked past the obstruction to
be re-shipped below. It was with feelings, half of
envy, half of admiration, that I saw Captain Brooke
tempt the danger.

VOL. i.

146

THE LAND DAYAKS.

About half-way down to Sibungoh wo saw white
flags overhanging the river at a landing-place, and
there in a temporary hut was waiting the OrangKaya
of Brang ; avc stayed with him about an hour, and
resisting his pressing invitation to his village, on
account of our previous engagement, heard what he
desired to communicate, and then continued our
course to Sibungoh. We soon transhipped our goods
to the large boat, and were not sorry, as many hours
in a small canoe is fatiguing. We found that the
Orang Ivaya was no longer under taboo, so we stayed
some little time with him, and then hurried on to the
next landing-place, where we found a large party of
Davaks ready to escort us to the village of Grung.

The walk was pleasant, principally over the land
that had formerly been farmed, and was now covered
Avith brushwood and young trees, affording but little
shelter from the burning sun. The country was un-
dulating, with pretty pebbly streams in the hollows.
Much rain having fallen in this neighbourhood during
the last few days the paths were execrable, even for
Dayak paths, which arc, perhaps, the Avorst in the
world. Over a marshy soil a line of single trees is laid,
end to end, on which you balance yourself as you move
along ; there is no danger here, except of a slip into
the oozy mud, sometimes up to the Avaist, affording to
the non-sufferers great cause of merriment as you
struggle and flounder to a drier spot ; but these trunks
of trees thrown over ravines arc dangerous after rain,
as Avlien deprived of their bark they are slippery.
But it is astonishing what use will do ; avc soon began
to criticize and pronounce a Avretched quagmire a
tolerable path. The Dayak is so active, and so

VILLAGE OF GRUNG.

147

accustomed to the work, that he seldom thinks of
doing more than felling a small tree, clearing it of its
branches, and throwing it across the smaller streams
as a bridge, except after harvest, when carrying home
the rice, a slight railing is added to give steadiness to
his movements.

The village of Grung is prettily situated near a
small and clear stream, and is surrounded by dense
groves of fruit-trees, particularly of durians, while
occasionally the graceful areca palm rises near the
houses. In one thing the Grungs excel every other
tribe of Dayaks I have ever seen, and that is in dirt ;
their houses were dirty, their mats were dirty, and
their little children could only he described as posi-
tively filthy.

We found the village crowded with the representa-
tives of all the neighbouring tribes ; long strings of
men, women, and children were continually arriving
as we approached. Directly we ascended the notched
tree that served as a ladder to the Orang Kaya’s
house, we found that we were no longer free agents.
A crowd of old women instantly seized us, and pulled
off our shoes and stockings, and commenced most
vigorously washing our feet ; this water was preserved
to fertilize the fields. We were then conducted to a
platform but slightly raised above the floor, and
requested to sit down, but the mats were so dirty
that we could scarcely prevail upon ourselves to do so
— perhaps the only time it has occurred to us ; gene-
rally the mats are charmingly neat and clean. The
arrival of our bedding freed us from this difficulty.

Wc were surrounded by a dense mass of men,
women, and children, who appeared all to be talking

10 — 2

148

TI1E LAND DA YAKS.

at once ; in fact, more excitement was shown than I
have before observed. We had to do so many things,
and almost all at once : to sprinkle rice about, to pour
a little water on each child that was presented to us,
until, from force of example, the women and even the
men insisted upon the same ceremony being performed
on them.

Silence being at last restored, Kasim explained in
a long speech the object of Captain Brooke’s visit ;
he spoke in Malay, interlarding it occasionally with
Dayak phrases — I say Malay, but Malay that is only
used when addressing the aborigines, clipping and
altering words, changing the pronunciation, until I
find that some have been deceived into believing this
was the true Dayak language. It is to these people
what the Lingua Franca is to Western Asia.

Wc got a little respite while eating our dinner,
but as soon as we had finished we were again
surrounded ; the priestesses of the place were espe-
cially active, tying little bells round our wrists and
ancles, and bringing rice for us to — how shall I
explain it— in fact, for us to spit on, and this delec-
table morsel they swallowed. No sooner had those
learned women been satisfied, than parents brought
their children, and insisted upon their being physicked
in the same way, taking care to have a full share
themselves. One horrid old woman actually came six
times.

The Orang Kaya now advanced, and there was
strict attention to hear what lie was about to say. lie
walked to the window, and threw some grains out, and
then commenced a kind of prayer, asking for good
harvests, for fertility for the women, and for health to

CEREMONIES.

them all. During the whole invocation he kept
scattering rice about. The people were very attentive
at first, but soon the murmur of many voices almost
drowned the old man’s tones. lie did not appear
very much in earnest, hut repeated what he had to
sav as if he were £join£ over a well-remembered but
little understood lesson ; in fact, it is said these invo-
cations are in words not comprehended even by the
Dayaks themselves — perhaps they are in some Indian
language.

Then a space was cleared for dancing ; the old
Orang Kaya and the ciders commenced, and were
followed by the priestesses. They walked up to
us in succession, passed their hands over our arms,
pressed our palms, and then uttering a yell or a pro-
longed screech went off in a slow measured tread,
moving their arms and hands in unison with their feet
until they reached the end of the house, and came
hack to where we sat ; then another pressure of the
palm, a few more passes to draw virtue out of us,
another yell, and off they went again ; at one time
there were at least a hundred dancing. Few of the
young people joined in what appeared in this case a
sacred dance.

For three nights we had had little sleep, on account
of these ceremonies, but at length, notwithstanding
clash of gong and heat of drum, we sank back in our
beds, and were soon fast asleep. In perhaps a couple
of hours I awoke ; my companion was still sleeping
uneasily ; the din was deafening, and I sat up to look
around. Unfortunate movement ! I was instantly
seized by the hands by two priests, and led up to the
Orang Kaya, who was leisurely cutting a fowl’s throat.

1 50

HIE LAND DAYAKS.

lie wanted Captain Brooke to perform the following
ceremony, hut I objected to his being awakened, and
offered to do it for him. I was taken to the very end
of the house, and the bleeding fowl put in my hands ;
holding him by his legs, I had to strike the lintels of
the doors, sprinkling a little blood over each; when
this was over, I had to waive the fowl over the heads
of the women, and wish them fertility ; over the
children, and wish them health ; over all the people,
and wish them prosperity ; out of the window, and
invoke good crops for them. At last I reached my
mats, and sat down, preparatory to another sleep,
when that horrid old woman led another detachment
of her sex forward to re-commence the physicking ;
fortunately hut few came, and after setting them off
dancing again I fell asleep, and, in spite of all the
noises, remained so till morning.

It is a fact unnoticed by us before, that among the
Dayak tribes there arc few girls between the age of
ten and fifteen (1852). It is a striking proof of the
effects that have attended the change of system from
native lawlessness to English superintendence. Before
Sir James Brooke held the reins of Government the
little female children were seized for slaves and con-
cubines by the Rajahs and Malay chiefs ; since that
practice has been put an end to, the houses arc
crowded with interesting girls of nine and younger.

The expression of all classes and of both sexes of
these people is that of a subdued melancholy. A man
fresh from Europe would doubtless notice many more
peculiarities in these tribes, which being familiar to
me pass without remark. Their houses I have before
described, and what is suitable for the one is so for the

LANGUAGE.

151

other. Nearly all the representatives present are but
those of the branches of a single tribe which has for
many years been scattered. Their language is the
same in words, though the accent is occasionally dif-
ferent— the effect of separation and other causes. It
is difficult, without long and minute investigation, to
familiarize oneself with their individual history and
politics.

CHAPTER Y.

LAND DAYAIvS OF SIRAMBAU — THEIR SOCIAL LIFE.

Madame Pfeiffer — Chinese Village — Chinese Maidens — Sirambau —
Ascent of the Mountain — Difficult Climbing — Forests of Fruit
Trees — Scenery — Sirambau Village — Houses — The “Look-
out ” — Scenery — Head-houses — Orang Kaya Mita — His modest
Request — Sir James Brooke’s Cottage — Natural Bath-house —
Chinese Gold Workings — Tapang Trees — Social Life of the
Land Dayaks — Ceremonies at a Birth— Courtship — Betrothe-
ment — Marriage — Burial — Graves — The Sexton — Funeral
Feast — Children — Female Chastity — Divorces — Cause of Sepa-
rations— Anecdote.

Madame Pfeiffer, the traveller, suddenly made her
appearance among us in December, 1851 ; she was a
woman of middle height, active for her age, with an
open countenance and a very pleasant smile. She
lived with us for some days, and then we took her to
visit the Dayaks of Sirambau on the right hand
branch. We selected a very fast, long prahu, fitted
up with a little cabin for her, and another for our-
selves, and having a numerous crew, pulled past our
usual resting-place at Ledah Tanah, and did not stop
till we reached the Chinese village of Siniawan, where
we took up our quarters for the night.

There arc about three hundred Celestials settled
here, principally engaged in shop-keeping, though a
few cultivate gardens. They arc evidently thriving,
as the Dayaks of the surrounding country resort to
this place, and there is a constant influx of Chinese

MADAME PFEIFFER.

153

and Malay gold workers. Their women, half-breeds,
are better-looking than any others in this part of the
world ; some of the girls were handsome, in one point
they set a bright example to their neighbours, and
that is in cleanliness. The Malay girls bathe at
least three times a day, but are not careful of the con-
dition of their clothes, while the Dayaks are too often
neglectful of both their skins and their coverings.

It was quite a pleasure to look at the little
Chinese maidens in their prim, neat dresses, and their
parents evidently have a pride in their appearance.
To them Madame Pfeiffer was a great attraction, and
a crowd followed her everywhere, and wondered at
the eagerness she displayed in the chase of a butterfly,
or the capture of an insect.

Siniawan is situated on a plain near the foot of the
Sirambau mountain, and affords an excellent market
for the produce of the interminable fruit groves that
cover the lower part of its slopes, and extend for
miles beyond.

As Madame Pfeiffer had never seen a Dayak
village, we thought she would like to visit these
rather primitive people, who reside about eleven
hundred feet up the sides of the mountain. Sirambau
is separated from the surrounding ranges, and from
the sea appears of great length, while from one
view near Siniawan, it is a single peak seventeen
hundred feet in height. At a few spots, we saw groves
of cocoanuts varying the colour of the jungle, and
these were at the villages of the Dayaks, all more
than a thousand feet above us.

In the morning we collected a band of mountaineers
to shoulder our baggage, and proceeded towards the

LAND DAYAKS OF SIRAMBAU.

154

hill. The soil around had lately been cleared, and
afforded no shelter from the burning sun. I imagine
Madame Pfeiffer, in all her travels, had never met
worse paths, particularly when we commenced ascend-
ing the hill. It appeared exactly as if the Dayaks
had chosen the bed of a mountain torrent as the
proper approach to their houses. At first the stones
were arranged as a rough paving, then as rougher
steps, and at last it became so steep, rock piled on
rock, that notched trunks of trees leaning against
them were the only means of ascending.

But, if the climbing were difficult, we were partly
compensated by the shade of the lofty fruit-trees grow-
ing in glorious confusion on either side of our path.
Crowded as closely as in the jungle, durians, man-
gustins, and every variety of fruit-tree, jostled each
other for the light, and spoilt the symmetry of their
forms. I have not seen elsewhere durian-trees of
proportions so magnificent, some above ten feet in
circumference, and rising to the height of a hundred
and twenty feet. When the season is good, it is
dangerous to walk in a grove of these trees, as a
breeze gently shaking the ripe fruit from its hold, it
falls heavily to the ground. They are often a foot in
length, and eight inches in diameter, and many a
story was told us of Dayaks being brought home
insensible through a blow from a falling durian.

As we advanced up the side of the mountain, we
rested at spots where we could obtain partial views of
the surrounding country ; large Dayak clearings now
completely brown, varied the otherwise continuous
jungle; gently swelling hills encircled the base of
Sirambau, and stretched onwards to the foot of the

SIRAMBAU VILLAGE.

155

steep and distant mountains. The Dayaks have led
rills of water to the edge of the path, at which they
refresh themselves, and occasionally there are rough
benches on which they rest their heavy loads, for
they carry up their whole rice crop to their mountain
villages.

After a toilsome ascent, which Madame Pfeiffer
feelingly describes, we passed the village of Bombok
on our left, and continued our course to that of
Sirambau, a little distance farther. Here the path
was more level, though it lay among huge rocks
detached from the summit of the mountain.

Sirambau is one of the most curious villages I have
seen ; it is large, and the long houses are connected
together by platforms of bamboo or by rough bridges
— a very necessary precaution, as the numerous pigs
had routed up the land ; and as every description of
dirt is thrown from their houses and never removed,
it is almost impossible to walk on the ground. Thick
groves of palms surrounded the village and buried it
from the world : indeed, it looked as isolated a spot
as any in wooded Borneo.

We found the chief Mita ready to receive us, and
to conduct us to his apartments ; they were very
confined, but on the raised platform under the sloping
windows we found place for our beds. They very
politely gave Madame Pfeiffer an inner room, and
provided her with neat white mats.

In the evening the apartments were crowded, and
being small, not much space was left for dancing.
This village house was altogether uncomfortable ; its
verandah was not five feet wide, and was totally
unfitted for their feasts ; the rooms were not twelve

156

LAND DA YAKS OF SIRAMBAU.

feet by sixteen, and the space was still further lessened
by a large fireplace that occupied an eighth of the
area. Some rough planks were laid on the fioor and
then covered with earth ; on it were arranged a few
stones, and that constituted the fireplace. At each
corner was a small post that supported a platform,
and on this was a heap of firewood kept here to dry
and to he ready at hand.

We have had much more intercourse with the
villagers on this hill, than with any other, as Sir
James Brooke had a country house near the upper-
most groves of palms that arc seen from Siniawan.
Formerly it was a Dayak village, hut the inhabitants
removing to join another section of their tribe who
were in a more sheltered spot, Sir James purchased
the fruit-trees around, and built a pretty cottage there.

Peninjau, or the “look-out,” was the name of this
spot, and it well deserved its name, as from a rock
which terminated the level summit of a buttress can
he seen a view unsurpassed in extent. I have spent
many months at this cottage, and rarely an evening
passed without my witnessing the sunset from this
favourite rock.

The peak of Santubong is the centre of the picture,
and the undulating ground between and the winding
of the river may he seen clearly in all its varied detail.
The calm sea — from this distance it seems always calm
— hounds the horizon. Two effects of light I have
often witnessed here ; just at sunset, the rays thrown on
the hills, the woods, the water, have a sickly tint ;
and when rain threatens, the trees in the jungle on
the distant hills of Matang stand out distinctly
visible, and it is only at such times they do so.

HEAD-HOUSES.

157

There arc three villages on this Sirambau hill —
the Peninjau, now visible below my favourite rock,
Bombok, and Sirambau, where we have left Madame
Pfeiffer.

Each of these villages contains a head-house ; in
that at Sirambau there were thirty-three heads, at
Bombok thirty- two, and at Peninjau twenty-one, with
the skull of a bear killed during a head-hunting
expedition. They were all very ancient-looking, in
fact none had been added to their store since Sir
James Brooke assumed the government of the
country. That they still have a longing for a fresh
skull, I have little doubt, though previously to the
Chinese insurrection the apparent impossibility had
made them rather careless on the subject.

There is a custom in these tribes to assist the
Orang Kava in making his farms ; in fact, it is one of
the most lucrative of his perquisites. Mita of
Sirambau had pushed his prerogative too far, and had
forced his people to make him three farms, and as
from this and many other reasons, he had ruined his
popularity, he looked about him for a means to
recover it. At last it struck him that a fresh head
would make the whole tribe look up to him with
respect.

I was visiting the village one day, when he told me
he had a great favour to ask, which was, that I would
endeavour to obtain from Sir James Brooke permis-
sion for him to make a foray into the neighbouring
districts. All the elders of the tribe were present,
and it was evident that they were deeply interested in
the answer. The earnest way in which they assured
me that the crops had not been good for many years,

158

LAND DAYAKS OF SIIIAMBAU.

because the spirits were angry at the ancient rites
having fallen into disuse, showed that he had worked
upon them to believe in the necessity of a head being
procured, but my answer was so discouraging that
they never ventured to mention the subject to Sir
James Brooke. Mita was afterwards removed from
his office, to the great satisfaction of the tribe.

Our cottage was just twelve hundred and thirty
feet above the level of the sea, and had a pure and
cool atmosphere about it ; but the most remarkable
spot near was a natural bath-house. In a ravine
close by rose a huge rock, seventy feet in length by
forty in breadth ; somewhat of the shape of a mighty
but very blunt wedge. The thicker end was buried
in the ground, the centre, supported on either side
by two rocks, left a cave beneath, while the thinner
part, thrust up at an angle of thirty degrees, over-
shadowed a natural basin, improved by art, at which
we bathed. A rill that glided from under the rock
supplied us plentifully with cool, clear water. It was
a beautiful spot, a charming natural grotto, in which
to pass the burning midday hours ; twenty or thirty
people could sit there with comfort, and admire the
vegetation that grew thickly around, but yet affording
glimpses of distant hills through the trees.

That spot for years was our boast ; there was no
bathing-place like Peninjau, no water so cool, no air
so bracing. Once our grotto fell to a discount, and that
was when some one unromantically brought from our
basin a huge leech, fifteen inches long ; but that was
the only intruder that ever invaded the sacred spot.
I may say that we never enter the basin when we
bathe in these places, or at our houses, but pour

CHINESE GOLD WORKINGS.

159

small buckets of water on our heads, and let it run
over our bodies ; it is the most refreshing plan. But
up country, in the cool mountain streams, we always
take a plunge into the water.

At night, looking south, the prospect appeared
quite lively with tires and flashing lights ; these came
from the villages of Chinese gold-workers occupying
the valleys below. They extended irregularly for
about ten miles until they reached their chief town of
Bau, romantically situated among limestone hills,
presenting perpendicular sides.

To the eastward was one of the noblest valleys in
Sarawak, perfectly uninhabited. At the nearer end
the Sirambau Dayaks occasionally had a farm, but
thousands of acres, untrodden by man, lay there
uncultivated.

To the left of Sirambau arc some very fine Tapang
trees, in which the bees generally build their nests ;
they are considered private property, and a Dayak
from a neighbouring tribe venturing to help himself
of this apparently wild honey and wax, would be
punished for theft. This tribe, also, is rich in
edible birds’-nests, while the Peninjaus are becoming
wealthy from the great extent of their fruit-groves.
In former times, the Malays used to gather them
without thinking of asking permission, but now the
government has forbidden this practice, and the
amount realized by the Dayaks is, for Borneo, some-
thing surprising. One good fruit season, a hundred
and fifty families realized two pounds sterling each,
enough to buy rice to last them six months.

I have said I am more familiar with the manners
and customs of these Dayaks than with those of any

1 GO

LAND DAYAKS OF SIRAMBAU.

others, and having had the advantage of receiving
full and careful replies to a list of queries I addressed
to all those I thought likely to he able to give me
assistance, particularly from the Rev. Mr. Chalmers,
the able missionary who formerly resided there, and
whose departure from Borneo all sincerely regret,
I will enter an account of the ways of the Land
Dayaks, noticing in what manner they vary from
those of the surrounding tribes. Though I am
greatly indebted to Mr. Chalmers’s notes, I by no
means bind him to the opinions expressed, as we
differ on some points, particularly regarding the
belief in the Supreme Being.

Births. — After pregnancy is declared a ceremony
takes place.* Two priestesses f attend, a fowl is killed,
rice provided, and for two nights they howl and chant,
during which time the apartment is “ pamali,” or
interdicted. The husband of the pregnant woman,
until the time of her delivery, may not do work with
any sharp instrument, except what may he absolutely
necessary for the cultivation of his farm ; he may not
tie things together with rattans, or strike animals, or
fire guns, or do anything of a violent character — all
such things being imagined to exercise a malign influ-
enco on the formation and development of the un-
born child. The delivery is attended by an old
woman, called a “ Pcnyading,” or midwife. A fowl
is killed, the family tabooed for eight days, during
which time the unfortunate husband is dieted on rice

* Dayak, — beruri.

j The Land Dayak word “ borich,” and the Sea Dayak
“ manang,” are generally translated male and female doctors, but
from their employment and duties, I think “ priest ” and
“ priestess” would better convey the idea.

COURTSHIP.

161

and salt, and may not go out In the sun, or even
bathe for four days ; the rice and salt diet is to pre-
vent the baby's stomach swelling to an unnatural
size.

Courtship. — Besides the ordinary attention which
a young man is able to pay to the girl he desires
to make his wife — as helping her in her farm work,
and in carrying home her load of vegetables or wood,
as well as in making her little presents, as a ring,
or seme brass chain work with which the women
adorn their waists, or even a petticoat — there is
a very peculiar testimony of regard, which is worthy
of note. About nine or ten at night, when the
family is supposed to be fast asleep within the mos-
quito curtains in the private apartment, the lover
quietly slips back the bolt by which the door is
fastened on the inside and enters the room on tip-toe.
lie goes to the curtains of his beloved, gently awakes
her, and she on hearing who it is rises at once, and
they sit conversing together, and making arrange-
ments for the future in the dark over a plentiful
supply of sirih-leaf and betel-nut, which it is the
gentleman’s duty to provide. If when awoke the
young lady rises and accepts the prepared betel-nut,
happy is the lover, for his suit is in a fair way to
prosper, but if on the other hand she rises and says,
“ Be good enough to blow up the fire,” or to light the
lamp (a bamboo filled with resin), then his hopes
are at an end, as that is the usual form of dismissal.
Of course if this kind of nocturnal visit is frequently
repeated, the parents do not fail to discover it, al-
though it is a point of honour among them to take no
notice of their visitor, and if they approve of him

VOL. I.

162

LAND DAYAKS OF SIRAMBAU.

matters take tlieir course, but if not, they use their
influence with their daughter to ensure the utterance
of the fatal “please blow up the fire.” It is said on
good authority that these nocturnal visits but seldom
result in immorality.

Betrothment. — There is no ceremony at a betroth-
ment, the bridegroom expectant (if a young bachelor)
generally presents his betrothed with a set of three
small boxes* made of bamboo, in which are placed
the tobacco, gambir, and lime, with the sirih-leaf and
betel-nut, and sometimes also with a cheap ring or
two purchased from the Malays, or in the Sarawak
bazaar.

Marriage. — At a marriage, a fowl is killed, rice
boiled, and a feast made by the relations of the bride
and bridegroom. The bridegroom then generally
betakes himself to the apartment of his wife’s parents
or relations, and becomes one of the family. Occa-
sionally, as for example when the bride has many
brothers and sisters, or when the bridegroom is the
support of aged parents, or of younger brothers and
sisters, the bride enters and becomes one of the family
of her husband. It is a rare occurrence for a young
couple at onee to commence housekeeping on their
own account ; the reason is, that the labours of a
young man go to augment the store of the head of
the family in which he lives, be it that of bis parents
or others, and not till their death can he claim any
share of the property in rice, jars, crockery, or gongs,
which by bis industry he has helped to create ; yet
most young men now have generally a small hoard
of copper coin, or even a few dollars, which they have

* Dekan.

BURIAL.

163

acquired by trading, or by working for Europeans,
Malays, or Chinese during the intervals of farm
labour.

Burial. — When a Dayak dies the whole village is
tabooed for a day ; within a few hours of death the
body is rolled up in the sleeping mat of the deceased,
and carried by the “ Peninu,” or sexton of the
village, to the place of burial or burning.* The body
is accompanied for a little distance from the village
by the women, uttering- a loud and melancholy lament.
In the Peninjau tribe the women follow the corpse
a short way down the path below the village to the
spot where it divides, one branch leading to the
burning ground, the other to the Chinese town of
Siniawan. Here they mount upon a broad stone,
and weep and utter doleful cries, till the sexton and
his melancholy burden have disappeared from view.
Curiously enough, the top of this stone is hollowed ;
and the Dayaks declare that this has been occasioned
by the tears of their women, which during many ages
have fallen so abundantly, and so often, as to wear
away the stone by their continual dropping.

In Western Sarawak the custom of burning the
dead is universal, in the districts near the Samarahan,
they are indifferently burnt or buried, and when the
Sadong is reached the custom of cremation ceases,
the Dayaks of the last river being in the habit of
burying their dead. In the grave a cocoa-nut, and
areca-nut are thrown, and a small basket of rice, and
that one containing the chewing condiments of the
deceased are hung up near the grave, and if he were
a noted warrior, a spear is stuck in the ground close

* Tinungan.

11—2

164

LAND DAYAKS OF SIRAMBAU.

by. The above articles of food are for the sustenance
of the soul in bis passage to the other world.

The graves arc very shallow, and not unfrequently
the corpse is rooted up and devoured by wild pigs.
The burning also is not unfrequently very inefficiently
performed, and portions of the bones and flesh of a
deceased person have been brought back by the dogs
and pigs of the village to the space below the very
houses of the relatives. In times of epidemic disease,
and when the deceased is very poor, or the relatives
do not feel inclined to be at much expense for the
sexton’s services, corpses are not unfrequently thrown
into some solitary piece of jungle not far from the
village, and there left. The Dayaks have very little
respect for the bodies of the departed, though they
have an intense fear of their ghosts.

The office of sexton is hereditary, descending from
father to son, and when the line fails, great indeed is
the difficulty of inducing another family to undertake
its unpleasant duties, involving, as it is supposed, too
familiar an association with the dead and the other
world to be at all beneficial. Though the prospect of
fees is good, and perhaps every family in the village
offers six gallons of impounded rice to start the sexton
elect in his new, and certainly useful career, among
the Quop Dayaks it is difficult to find a candidate.
The usual burial fee is one jar, valued at a rupee,
though if great care be bestowed on the interment,
a dollar is asked ; at other places as much as two
dollars are occasionally demanded, and obtained when
the corpse is offensive.

On the day of a person’s death, a feast* is given by
* Man buiya.

FEMALE CHASTITY DIVORCES.

165

the family to their relations ; if the deceased he rich,
a pig and a fowl are killed, but if poor, a fowl is con-
sidered sufficient. The apartment, and the family in
which the death occurs, are tabooed for seven days
and nights, and if the interdict be not rigidly kept,
the ghost of the departed will haunt the house.
Among the Silakau, the Lara, and the true Lundu
tribes, the bodies of the elders and rich arc burned,
while the others are buried.

Children. — All children are very desirable in Dayak
eyes. Mr. Chalmers thinks that if a Dayak could
have but one child, he would prefer a female, as she
will always assist in getting wood and water (labours
held in little esteem by those males who have arrived
at the age of puberty) ; and, moreover, at marriage a
son may have to follow his wife, whereas a daughter
obtains for her parents the benefit of her husband’s
labour and assistance ; but my opinion is contrary,
I think male children are generally desired.

Female Chastity. — With regard to female chastity,
I imagine they are better, certainly not worse, than
the Malays. The “ Orang Kayas ” have many cases
of adultery to settle, which do not, however, cause
much excitement in the tribe.

Divorces are very common, one can scarcely meet
with a middle-aged Dayak who has not had two, and
often three or more wives. I have heard of a girl of
seventeen or eighteen years who had already had
three husbands. Repudiation, which is generally done
by the man or woman running away to the house of a
near relation, takes place for the slightest cause —
personal dislike or disappointments, a sudden quarrel,
bad dreams, discontent with their partners’ powers of

166

LAND DA YAKS OF SlRAMBAU.

labour or their industry, or in fact, any excuse which
will help to give force to the expression, “ I do not
want to live with him or her any longer.”

A woman has deserted her husband when laid up
with a had foot, and consequently unable to work,
and returned to him when recovered, hut this is
perhaps to obtain her food on easier terms. A lad
once forced his mother to divorce her husband, the
lad’s stepfather, because the latter tried to get too
much work out of his stepson, and let his own
children bv a former marriage remain idle. The
stepson did not understand why he should contri-
bute to the support of his half-brothers, so he
told his mother she must leave her husband, or he
would leave her, and live with his late father’s
relatives. She preferred her son’s society to her
husband’s.

In fact, marriage among the Dayaks is a business
of partnership for the purpose of having children,
dividing labour, and by means of their offspring pro-
viding for their old age. It is, therefore, entered
into and dissolved almost at pleasure. If a husband
divorces bis wife, except for the sake of adultery, he
has to pay her a fine of two small jars, or about two
rupees. If a woman puts away her husband, she pays
him a jar, or one rupee. If a wife commits adultery
the husband can put her away if he please ; though
if she be a strong, useful woman, he sometimes does
not do so, and her lover pays him a fine of one
“ tajau,” a large jar equal to twelve small jars, valued
at twelve rupees. If a separation take place, the
guilty wife also gives her husband about two rupees.
If a husband commit adultery, the wife can divorce

ANECDOTE.

167

him, and fine his paramour eight rupees, but she gets
nothing from her unfaithful spouse. There is one
cause of divorce, where the blame rests on neither
party, but on their superstitions. When a couple are
newly married, if a deer, or gazelle, or a mouse deer
utter a cry at night near the house in which the pair
are living, it is an omen of ill — they must separate, or
the death of one would ensue. This might be a
great trial to a European lover ; the Dayaks, however,
take the matter very philosophically.

Mr. Chalmers mentions to me the case of a young
Peninjau man who was divorced from his wife on
the third day after marriage. The previous night
a deer had uttered its warning cry, and separate they
must. The morning of the divorce he chanced to
go into the “ head-house,” and there sat the bride-
groom contentedly at work.

“Why are you here?” he was asked, as the
“ head-house ” is frequented by bachelors and hoys
only ; “ what news of your new wife ? ”

“ I have no wife, we were separated this morning,
because the deer cried last night.”

“ Are you sorry ? ”

“ Very sorry.”

“ What are you doing with that brass wire ? ”

“ Making perik ” — the brass chain-work which the
women wear round their waists — “ for a young woman
whom I want to get for my new wife.”

163

CHAPTER VI.

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND D AYAKS — Continued.

Religion — Belief in Supreme Being — Traces of Hinduism — Sacrifices
— Pamali or Interdict — Mr. Chalmers’s Account of the Dayak
Religion — A Future State — Spirits by Nature — Ghosts of
Departed Men — Transformations — Catching the Soul — Con-
version of the Priest to Christianity — Story — Other Ghosts —
Custom of Pamali, or Taboo — Sacrifices — Things and Actions
Interdicted — Not to Eat Horned Animals — Reasons for not
Eating Venison — Of Snakes — The Living Principle — Causes of
Sickness — Spirits Blinding the Eyes of Men — Incantations to
Propitiate or Foil the Spirits of Evil — Catching the Soul —
Feasts and Incantations connected with Farming Operations —
The Blessing of the Seed — The Feast of First Fruits — Securing
the Soul of the Rice — Exciting Night Scene — The Harvest
Home — Singular Ceremony — Head Feasts — Offering the
Drinking Cup — Minor Ceremonies — Images — Dreams — Love —
Journeys of the Soul — Warnings in Sleep — Magic Stones —
Anecdote — Ordeals — Omens — Birds of Omen — Method of Con-
sulting them — Beneficial Effects of the Head Feasts — Languages
of the Land Dayaks — Deer — The Sibuyaus free from Prejudice —
Story of the Cobra De Capella — Names — Change of Name — Pro-
hibited Degrees of Affinity — Heights — Medical Knowledge —
Priests and Priestesses — Origin of the latter — Their Practices
— Manufactures — Agriculture — Story of the Origin of Rice —
The Pleiades.

Religion. — This principally consists of a number
of superstitious observances. They are given up to
the fear of ghosts ; anti in the propitiation of these by
small offerings and certain ceremonies consists the
principal part of their worship. But though this is
the case, 1 am quite convinced that they have a firm,
though not clear belief in the existence of one

RELiGlON.

169

Supreme Being, who is above all, and over all ; and
in this lies the best hope of the missionary. If we
could trace back the origin of their superstitions, we
should probably find that many of their inferior
spirits are simply heroes of old who have assumed the
form of demi-gods ; in fact, all my inquiries among
the wild tribes confirm me in the opinion that they
believe in a Supreme Being. I have mentioned in
my Limbang Journal old .Taper saying, — “ When
I speak of the God of the Pakatan tribe, I mean Him
who made the heavens, the earth, and man.” I have
always thought that the three inferior spirits men-
tioned by Mr. Chalmers in the extract I will give,
Tenabi, Iang, and Jirong are merely agents of Tapa,
and occasionally their subordinate position is over-
looked by the Dayak narrators. It reminds one of
the three powers in the Hindoo religion, “ Brahma,”
“ Vishnu,” and “ Siva,” issuing from the Godhead
Bram — and, in the Dayak religion, “ Tenabi,” the
maker of the material world ; Iang, the Instructor,
and Jirong, the Renovator and Destroyer, emanating
from the Godhead Tapa, the great Creator and Pre-
server. Before proceeding, I will give the substance
of Mr. Chalmers’s account of the religion of the
Land Dayaks ; I may also premise by saying, that
the Sarawak Land Dayaks call their God “ Tapa,”
the Silakaus and Laras “ Jewata,” and the Sibuyaus,
“ Batara.”

In common with many other barbarous tribes, their
religious system relates principally to this life. They
arc like the rest of mankind, continually liable to
physical evils, poverty, misfortune, sickness, and these
they try to avert from themselves by the practice of

170

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE LAND DAYAKS.

ancient customs which are supposed to be effectual for
the purpose. This system may be classed as follows : —

The killing of pigs and fowls, the flesh of which
is eaten, small portions being set aside with rice for
the spiritual powers; and from the blood mixed with
spittle, turmeric, and cocoa-nut water, a filthy mess is
concocted, and called physic, with which the people
attending the feast are anointed on the head and face.
Dancing by the elders and the priestesses about a
kind of bamboo altar, erected on these occasions
either in the long room or on the exterior platform
of one of the houses, round which the offerings
are placed, always accompanied by the beating of all
the gongs and drums of the tribe by the young lads,
and singing, or rather chanting, by the priestesses.
The “pamali,” or taboo of an apartment, house, or
village for one, two, four, eight, and even sixteen
days, during which in the case of a village, no
stranger can enter it, in the case of a house, no one
beside the families residing therein, and in the case
of an apartment no one out of the family.

It cannot be denied that they have some belief in
the Supreme God who is called “ Tapa,” the Creator
or Maker, though their idea of Him as a moral
governor is very hazy and confused. They possess
also some glimmerings of a future existence, though
scarcely any idea of a future state of rewards and
punishments. The following are a few particulars of
the Dayak theology.

There are four chief spirits : “ Tapa,” who

created men and women, and preserves them in life ;
“ Tenabi,” who made the earth, and, except the
human race, all things therein, and still causes it to

BELIEF IN A SUPREME BEING.

J 7 1

flourish ; “ Iang,” or “ ling,” who first instructed
the Dayaks in the mysteries of their religion, and
who superintends its performance; “ Jirong,” who
looks after the propagation of the human species, and
also causes them to die of sickness or accident.
“ Iang ” is frequently associated with “ Tapa,” and
“ Tapa Iang” often stands for the Supreme Being.

An intelligent man of the tribe Setang, gave an-
other account. lie says that “ Tapa” and “ Tenabi ”
are hut different names for the same Great Being,
and that with Him is associated “ Jirong,” the Lord
of birth and death. That when Tapa made the
world, he first created “ Iang,” then the spirits
“ Triu” and “ Komang,” and then man. That man
and the spirits were at first equal, and fought on fair
terms, but that on one woful occasion, the spirits got
the better of man, and rubbed charcoal in his eyes,
which made him no longer able to see his spirit foes,
except in the case of certain gifted persons, as the
priest, and so placed him at their mercy.

With respect to a future state, the common Dayak
story is that when a man dies, he becomes a spirit,
and lives in the jungle, or (this Mr. Chalmers heard
in one of the dead body burning tribes) that as the
smoke of the funeral pile of a good man rises, the soul
ascends with it to the sky, and that the smoke from
the pile of a wicked man descends, and his soul with
it is borne down to the earth, and through it to the
regions below. Another version is, that when a man
dies a natural death, his soul on leaving the body
becomes a spirit, and haunts the place of burial or
burning. When a spirit dies, for spirits too, it would
seem, are subject unto death, it enters the hole of

172

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

Hades, and coming1 out tlience again becomes a
Bejawi. In course of time the “Bejawi” dies, and
lives once more as a “Begutur;” but wlien a
“ Begutur ” dies, the spiritual essence of which it
consists, enters the trunks of trees, and may he seen
there damp and blood-like in appearance, and has a
personal and sentient existence no longer.

I have introduced this account, and it is curious
to trace in it a similarity to the Budhist religion
professed in Siam. There, they believe that after
passing through many and various transmigrations,
they will, as the last and best existence, sink into
“neiban” and he lost to all sense, and fade away
without retaining personality any longer.

With regard to a future state, the Dayaks point to

the highest mountain in sight as the abode of their
© ©

departed friends.

The spirits are divided into two classes, “ Umot,”
spirits by nature, and “ Mino,” as I understood it to
be, ghosts of departed men.

Umot.— The “ Trui ” and “Komang” live amid
the noble old forest on the tops of lofty hills.
They delight in war and bloodshed, and always come
down to be present at the Dayak “ head feasts.”
They are described as of a fierce and wild appear-
ance, being covered with coarse red hair like an
orang-utan. By some the “ Komang ” are said
to be the spirits of departed heroes, associated
after death for their valour with the war-loving
“Trui.” “Umot Sisi ” is a harmless kind of spirit
which follows the Dayak, to look for the fragments of
food which have fallen through the open flooring of
their houses, and who is heard at night munching

SPIRITS.

173

away below. “ Umot Perubak” cause scarcity among
the Dayaks, by coming invisibly and eating the rice
from the pot at mealtime ; their appetite is insa-
tiable. “ Umot Pcrusong” and “ Tibong ” come slily
and devour the rice which is stored within a recep-
tacle made of the hark of some gigantic tree, and is
in the form of a vat. It is kept in the garrets of the
houses, and a large one will contain a hundred and
fifty bushels, and the family live in constant fear
that these voracious spirits will visit their store and
entirely consume it.

“ Mino Buau ” are the ghosts of those who have
been killed in war. These are very vicious and
inimical to the living; — they dwell in the jungle, and
have the power of assuming the form of beasts or
headless men. A Quop Dayak declared lie met with
one. He was walking through the jungle, and saw
what he thought was a squirrel sitting on the large
roots of a tree which overhung a small stream. lie
had a spear in his hand, this he threw at the squirrel,
and thought he had struck it ; he ran towards the
spot at which it had apparently fallen, when to his
horror it faced him, rose up, and was transformed
into a dog. The dog walked on a few paces, and
then turning into a human shape, sat slowly down
on the trunk of a fallen tree — head there was none.
The spectre body was parti-coloured, and at the top
drawn up to a point. The Dayak was smitten with
a great fear, and away he rushed home and fell into
a violent fever ; the priest was called, and he pro-
nounced that the patient’s soul had been summoned
away from its corporeal abiding place by the spirit ;
so he went to seek it, armed with his magic charms.

174

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE LAND DAYAKS.

Midway between the village and place where the
“ Buau ” had appeared, the fugitive soul was over-
taken and induced to pause, and having been captured
by the priest, was brought back to its body, and
poked into its place through an invisible hole in
the head : the next day the fever ivas gone.

This shows how the priests practise on the igno-
rance and superstition of the people. Mr. Gomez,
aware of it, used his utmost efforts to convert the
principal “Manang”or priest of the Lundu branch
of the “ Sibuyaus,” and succeeded ; since then there
have been many baptized. This, however, is not the
principal effect ; he has enlisted the learned man on
his side instead of against him, and I have little
doubt of his ultimately winning over the whole tribe
of that section of Sea Dayaks.

Some accuse the Buau of being occasionally guilty
of running off with women. In former times, a wife
named Temunyan was, in her husband’s absence,
carried off. On his return he searched for, and
found the spirit, slew him by a trick and recovered
his wife ; not, however, until she had suffered viola-
tion. She was pregnant by the Buau, and in due
time she brought forth a son — a horrible monster,
which her enraged husband chopped up into small
pieces ; and these immediately turned into leeches,
with which the jungles are to this day unpleasantly
infested.

“ Mino Pajabun.” — These arc the ghosts of those
who meet with an accidental death. Their name
seems to he derived from a Dayak word meaning
“ To long for,” because it is said they pass their
time in useless wailings over their hard fate.

PAMALI, OR INTERDICT.

175

“ Mino Kok Anak.” — The spirits of women who
have (lied in childbed. They delight to mount high
trees, and to startle belated Dayaks by horrible noises
as they are hurrying home in the twilight. There is
also a ghost or spirit — whether “ Mino ” or “ Umot,”
I have not ascertained — known to the “ Peninjaus,”
which lives amid the holes of the rocks on the hills ;
it is called “ Sedying,” and on a rainy day may
be heard in its cave shivering and bemoaning as if
suffering from the ague.

I have already mentioned that the custom “ pamali,”
called by the Land Dayak “ porikh,” obtains among all
the tribes, and is constantly practised. To propitiate
the superior spirits, they shut themselves up in their
houses a certain number of days, and by that, among
other means, hope to avert sickness, to cure a favourite
child, or to restore their own health. They also have
recourse to it when the cry of the gazelle is heard
behind them, or when their omen birds utter unfavour-
able warnings. They likewise place themselves under
this interdict at the planting of rice, at harvest home,
and upon many other occasions. During this time,
they appear to remain in their houses, in order to eat,
drink, and sleep ; but their eating must be moderate,
and often consists of nothing but rice and salt.
These interdicts are of very different durations and
importance. Sometimes, as at the harvest home, the
whole tribe is compelled to observe it, and then no
one must leave the village; at other times it only
extends to a family, or to a single individual. It is
also considered important that no stranger should
break the taboo by entering the village, the house, or
the apartment, placed under interdict. If any one

17(3

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

should do so intentionally, he would subject himself
to a fine.

The taboo lasts from one to sixteen days, according
to the importance attached to the event. The animals
used in the sacrifice are fowls and pigs, and I hear
also that even dogs in certain tribes are occasionally
employed. The fowls and pigs are eaten, but the dogs
not, the blood only being required in their incanta-
tions. When a fowl is killed a taboo may last one,
two, or four days ; when a pig — and then it is usually
a very important occasion — the ceremony may last
four, eight, or sixteen days.

People under interdict may not bathe, touch fire,
or employ themselves about their ordinary occupa-
tions. In conversation you continually hear even the
Malays say, “ It is pamali,” or interdicted by their
superstitions, but if contrary to their religion they
say “ haram.”

I will notice a few things which the Dayaks consider
must not he done bv them ; for instance, most are
not allowed to eat the flesh of horned animals, as
cattle and goats, and many tribes extend the prohibi-
tion to the wild deer. In their refusal to touch the
flesh of cows and hulls they add another illustration
of the theory that their religion is indirectly derived
from the Hindu, or if not actually derived, greatly
influenced by their intercourse with its disciples.
They say that some of their ancestors, in the trans-
migration of souls, were formerly metamorphosed into
these animals ; and they slily, or innocently add, that
the reason why the Mahomedan Malays will not
touch pork is, that they are afraid to eat their fore-
fathers, who were changed into the unclean animal.

TIIE LIVING PRINCIPLE.

177

It lias often struck me that the origin of many of
their superstitions arose from the greediness of the
elders ; as in some of the tribes they, together with
the women and children, but not the sturdy young
men, may eat eggs. In other instances the very old
men and the women may eat of the flesh of the deer,
while the young men and warriors of the tribe are
debarred from venison for fear it should render them
as timid as the graceful hind.

The taboo which prevents certain families from
consuming the flesh of snakes and other kinds of
reptiles, most probably arose from some incident in
the life of one of their ancestors, in which the
rejected beast played a prominent part. It is reli-
giously forbidden to all those intending to engage
in a pig-hunt from meddling with oil before the
chase, for fear the game should thus slip through
their fingers. I may add, if a certain kind of
bird flies through a house the inhabitants desert
it ; as they likewise do if a drop of blood he seen
sprinkled on the floor, unless they can prove whence
it came.

In addition to the incantations (Beruri) which
accompany every feast (Gawci), there arc special
ones on occasions of sickness both in men and rice.
The Dayak idea of life is this, that in mankind,
animals, and rice there is a living principle called
“ semungat ” or “semungi:” that sickness is caused
by the temporary absence, and death by the total
departure of this principle from the body. Hence
the object of their ceremonies is to bring back the
departed souls ; and some of the feasts are held to
secure the soul of the rice, which, if not so detained,

VOL. I.

178

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

the produce of their farms would speedily rot and
decay. At sowing time, a little of the principle of
life of the rice, which at every harvest is secured by
their priests, is planted with their other seeds, and is
thus propagated and communicated.

Sickness among mankind is occasionally caused by
spirits inflicting on people invisible wounds with in-
visible spears ; indeed, they themselves sometimes
enter men’s bodies and drive out the soul. As a rule,
to be ill is to have been smitten by a spirit,* for it is
these implacable foes of mankind who under all cir-
cumstances entice forth and endeavour to carry away
the souls of men. If any one in his wanderings
through the jungle is wounded or killed by the spring
traps f set near the farms to destroy pigs who may
attempt to break through into the fields, it is because
the spirit of the trap has caused darkness to pass
over his eyes, so that he should not see the regular
warning mark, consisting1 of two bamboos crossed,

which tells of the neighbourhood of danger.

To return, however, to the incantations by which
the inimical spirits are propitiated or foiled in their
machinations. They are three : “ Nyibaiyan,” or the
ceremony for restoring health. At this only one fowl
is killed; two priestesses are the actors, and they
spend their time chanting monotonously ; the taboo
lasts two nights. The invalid and the person who
prepares the magic ointment (a near relative of the
patient) are the only persons subject to its restraints.

* “ Kena antu.”

f “ Peti,” made by bending back a sharp bamboo spear. An
animal touching a stick, placed across an opening, lets fly the spring,
and the spear is driven through the unheeding stranger, whether
human or animal.

CATCHING THE SOUL.

1 7'J

“ Berobat Pinya” is also for sickness. At this one
priest and four or five priestesses attend, the interdict
lasts four days, and one pig and one fowl are killed.
Outside the door of the family apartment in which
the incantation is held are gathered together, in a
winnowing basket, an offering of fowls, yams, and
pork, fowl and pig’s blood in a cup, boiled rice and
sirih-leaf, and areca-nut : these arc for the various
spirits. On the first day of the incantation two
priestesses pretend to fight with each other with
drawn swords, which they wave and slash about in so
furious a manner, as at once to put to flight the
trembling ghost. After this display of valour, chant-
ing begins, accompanied by the music of a small gong
and a drum, the latter beaten by the priest ; this
continues for a day and night. Towards midnight he
proceeds to get the soul of the patient. Carefully
wrapping up a small cup in a white cloth, he places
it amidst the offerings before mentioned, then, with
a torch in one hand and a circlet of beads and tink-
ling hawk bells in the other, he stalks about shaking
his charms. After a little time he orders one of the
admiring spectators to look in the cup previously
wrapped up in white cloth, and sure enough there
the soul always is, in the form of a bunch of hair to
vulgar eyes, but to the initiated in shape and appear-
ance like a miniature human being. This is sup-
posed to be thrust into a hole in the top of the
patient’s head, invisible to all but the learned man.
He has thus recovered the man’s soul, or, as it may
be called, the principle of life that wms departing
from him.

The Land Dayaks of Sarawak say they have only

ISO

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE LAND DA YAKS.

one soul ; the “ Sibuyaus ” talk of several ; but their
souls, as shown by the priest to the friends of the
patient, bear a suspicious resemblance to the seeds of
the cotton plant.

“ Berobat Sisab ” has a similar aim to the above.
At this, one priest, but no priestess, is present. The
priest first makes a bamboo altar * in the commom
verandah outside the door of the patient’s room,
round which are placed offerings, and a pig and a
fowl are killed. The interdict lasts for eight days.
Tor two there is beating of gongs and drums, and
dancing bv the man wdio makes the charm, usuallv
some relation of the sick person. On the first night
the soul is recovered, and the patient washed in the
milk of the cocoa-nut. I have often been present
when these ceremonies were going on ; it is asto-
nishing that any patient should recover, stunned as
he must be by the beating and clanging of these ear-
splitting instruments close to him. It has effectually
prevented my closing my eyes ; and the melancholy
wrnil of the priestesses is sufficient, one would
imagine, to drive hope itself from the bedside of
the sufferer.

The feasts and incantations connected with farm-
ing operations are as follows : — First, in the midst of
cutting down the jungle; second, when it is set on fire.
These are small affairs, the interdict lasting but one
day, and only a fowl being killed. They are called
“ Mekapau,” only one gong and one drum are beaten ;
and also “ nyirahgan,” because a bamboo altar is built
by the road-side, and upon it a small offering of rice
and blood is placed for the spirit. The second feast
* “ Sikurung,” a bamboo altar.

FEAST OF FIRST FRUITS.

181

is to drive away all evil influences from the earth,
when ready for the seed.

The third feast* is the blessing of the seed before
planting. It is brought out, and the priestesses
wave over it their flat brush-like wands, which
consist of the undeveloped fruit of the areca palm,
stripped of its sheath, and is in itself one of the
prettiest objects in the world, and in its natural
bursting spreads around the parent stem a deli-
cious perfume that scents a whole grove. They
thus expel all malign influences ; the interdict lasts
two nights, one fowl is killed, and there is music and
dancing.

During the growth of the rice, if the rats be making
havoc among it, or the pale green leaf appear blighted,
there are similar ceremonies to awe the vermin, and
charm back the colour to the plant. But the harvest
feasts are the great days ; there are three The feast
of first fruits,f "hen the priestesses, accompanied by
a gong and a drum, go in procession to the farms and
gather several bunches of the ripe padi. These are
brought back to the village, washed in cocoa-nut
water, and laid round a bamboo altar, which at the
harvest feasts is erected in the common room of the
largest house, and decorated with white cloth and re 1
streamers, so as to present a very gay appearance, and
is hung around with the sweet-smelling blossom of the
areca palm. This feast and interdict last two days ;
only fowls are killed ; dancing and gong-beating go on
night and day ; and when it is over, the Dayaks may
set themselves to repair their bamboo platforms outside
the houses, on which the rice is trodden out from the

f “ Nyipa ’an.”

* “ Mamuk Benih.”

182

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAICS.

car, and then dried in the sun. They may now also
gather in their crops.

The second feast* is a more important affair : it
is held about the middle of harvest, and lasts four
days ; fowls and a pig are killed, and dancing and
beating of gongs go on almost continually. The
first part of this feast is celebrated, not in the
village, but in a shed at some distance from it,
frequently built by the roadside, and sometimes on
the very summits of the hills on which the villages
are situated. Although strangers are forbidden to
approach the place during these ceremonies, yet at
Sirambau I have often been invited to be present
during this and the other feasts. They choose a lovely
spot for the erection of their shed, which is tastefully
decorated with green boughs and climbing plants, and
situated under the loftiest fruit-trees I have ever seen;
and here as in other villages, around the spot where
the shed was erected were planted yellow bamboos, and
their golden tapering stems and graceful feathery
tufts are a charming and pleasing contrast to the
rude leaf walls and roof of the neighbouring building.

At this, and at the third and last harvest feast, the
soul of the rice is secured. The way of obtaining it
varies in different tribes. In the Quop district it is
done by the chief-priest alone ; first, in the long and
broad verandah where the altar is erected, and after-
wards in each separate family apartment. Sometimes
it is performed by day, sometimes by night ; and the
process is this : the priest, fixing his eyes on some
object visible only to him, takes in one hand his bundle
of charms and in the other a second composed of pigs’
* “ Man Siiwa,” or “ Nyitungid.”

EXCITING NIGHT SCENE.

183

and bears’ and doe's’ tusks and teeth, and large
opaque-coloured beads ; a little gold dust is also
necessary in this ceremony, during which he calls
aloud for white cloth ; when it is brought and spread
before him, he waves his charms towards the invisible
object in the air, and then shakes it over the white
cloth, into which there fall a few grains of rice, which
Tapa, in reward for their offerings and invocations,
sends down to them. This is the soul, and it is
immediately wrapped up with great care and laid
among the offerings around the altar.

The gold dust and white cloth are generally fur-
nished at their earnest request by the government, as
the Dayaks think it exercises a beneficial effect to
receive it from white men. It used to be supplied by
the Malay rulers.

In some tribes it is a far more exciting spectacle,
especially when done at night. A large shed is
erected outside the village, and lighted by huge fires
inside and out, which cast a ruddy glow over the dense
mass of palms surrounding the houses ; while gongs
and drums are crashing around a high and spacious
altar near the shed, where a number of gaily-dressed
men and women are dancing with slow and stately
step and solemn countenances, some bearing in their
hands lighted tapers, some brass salvers on which are
offerings of rice, and others closely covered baskets,
the contents of which are hidden from all but the
initiated. The corner-posts of the altar are lofty
bamboos, whose leafy summits are yet green and rustle
in the wind ; and from one of these hangs down a long,
narrow streamer of white cloth. Suddenly elders and
priests rush to it, seize hold of its extremity, and amid

184

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

the crashing sound of drums and gongs and the yells
of spectators, begin dancing and swaying themselves
backwards and forwards, and to and fro. An elder
springs on the altar, and begins violently to shake the
tall bamboos, uttering as he does so shouts of triumph,
which are responded to by the swaying bodies of those
below ; and amid all this excitement, small stones,
bunches of hair and grains of rice, fall at the feet of
the dancers, and are carefully picked up by watchful
attendants. The rice is the soul sought for, and the
ceremony ends by several of the oldest priestesses fall-
ing, or pretending to fall, to the earth senseless; where,
till they recover, their heads are supported and their
faces fanned by their younger sisters.

The third feast* is held after the end of the harvest,
when the year’s crop has been carefully stowed away.
A pig and fowls arc killed, for four days gong-beating
and dancing are kept up, and the taboo lasts for eight
days. Sometimes no stranger may approach the vil-
lage for sixteen days. At this period also the soul of
the rice is likewise secured, which is to ensure the
non-rotting of the crop. At this feast there is a
general physicking of the children. They are washed
with cocoa-nut water, and then laid down in a row in
the common room where the feast is held, and scarcely
suffered to move about for four days. At this time
also the elder priestesses physic their younger sisters,
and children of a tender age are entered among the

o o

number of this learned and accomplished body ; partly
because admission into it is supposed to secure them
against violent sickness. For each one who is now to
be initiated, a young cocoa-nut is obtained, and their
* Nyishupen, or “nyipidang menyupong.”

SINGULAR CEREMONY.

1 85

elder sisters cause those on whom they are to exercise
their power to lie down in a line along the room, and
to cover themselves with long sleeping sheets. The
cocoa-nuts belonging to the patients are then taken
into the hands of the priestesses, and with them they
run violently about the long room, tossing them up
and down and to and fro. In some villages they
are rolled in soot and oil, and then kicked furiously
about from one priestess to the other. During this
part of the process the room presents a curious scene.
Here some six or seven gaily-dressed women are rush-
ing frantically up and down, tossing in their hands
the heavy young cocoa-nuts ; there a dozen old women
are moving to and fro on a rude swing suspended from
the rafters, and howling dolefully round the altar. A
number of others are shrieking and dancing ; while
from the farther end of the room beyond the line of
prostrate patients resounds a clatter of gongs and
drums, beaten as vigorously as twenty pair of young
hands can apply themselves to the work.

One by one the old priestesses cease their wild
running backwards and forwards, and each in suc-
cession presents herself before an elder of the tribe,
who stands, chopper in hand, over a mortar, into
the hollow of which each in turn places her cocoa-
nut. With one blow the old man splits the nut,
and out gushes the water. If it simply fall into the
mortar, the prospect is good, hut if it shoot up towards
the roof, then evil is the lot of the patient whose
cocoa-nut it may be, for there is sickness before her
in the coming year. When a cocoa-nut is split, she to
whom it belongs is raised from her recumbent position
and the water is poured over her ; she is then laid

186

SOCIAL LITE OF TIIE LAND DAYAKS.

down again and carefully wrapped up in her sheet.
When all have been so treated a lighted taper is waved
over the prostrate, motionless patients, and a form of
words chanted, and then the ceremony is concluded by
the head priestess going round and blowing into the
face of each of the patients; after which they are
allowed to chatter and amuse themselves, but are con-
fined to the long room, in company with the elders and
such of the children as had been previously subjected
to the ceremony, until the close of the interdict.

Head Feasts. — These are held only after some new
heads have been added to the ghastly trophies of the
bachelor’s house ; consequently among the Dayaks of
Sarawak there has not been a feast for many years,
except those celebrated over the heads of the
rebellious Chinese killed in 1857, who, confident
in their firearms, attempted to capture the villages
on the mountain, their chief object being to burn
down Sir James Brooke’s cottage. They offered to
cease their attack if the Dayaks would put fire to
it themselves ; but they refused, and defended their
steep paths by the aid of barricades. The Chinese
were foiled and driven back to the plain, and were
pursued by the mountaineers, who inflicted heavy
loss upon them. Chinese heads, however, are esteemed
of little value in comparison with those of their
ancient enemies. The head feast is the great day of
the young bachelors. The head-house and village
are decorated with green boughs, and the heads to be
feasted are brought out from their very airy position,
being hung from one of the beams, where they rattle
together at every breath of wind, and are put into a
rice measure in some very prominent place. The

OFFERING TIIE DRINKING CUP.

187

whole population are robed in their best, the young-
men in red jackets, yellow and red head-dresses, and
gay waist-cloths or trousers.

For four days and four nights an almost incessant
heating of gongs and drums is kept up, and dances
are performed by the young men only. The priestesses
are decked out in their usual style, hut upon this
occasion their occupation is gone. Strong drinks,
made from rice or the fruit of the tampui-trec, and
also from the gomuti palm, flow freely ; shrieks,
yells, laughter, and shoutings, are heard in all direc-
tions, and the whole village seems given up to riot and
dissipation. The interdict lasts eight days, two pigs
are killed, and as many fowls as they can afford.
An offering of food is made to the heads, and their
spirits, being thus appeased, cease to entertain malice
against, or to seek to inflict injury upon, those who
have got possession of the skull which formerly
adorned the now forsaken body.

A curious custom prevails among the young men
at this feast. They cut a cocoa-nut shell into the
form of a cup, and adorn it with red and black dye.
Into one side of it they fasten a rudely carved likeness
of a bird’s head, and into the other the representation
of its tail. The cup is filled with arrack, and the
possessor performs a short wild dance with it in his
hands, and then with a yell leaps before some chosen
companion, and presents it to him to drink. Thus
the “ loving cup ” is passed around among them, and
it need not be said that the result is in many cases
partial, though seldom excessive, intoxication.

Before leaving the subject of feasts and incantations,
I will mention some of their occasional ceremonies.

188

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE LAND DAYAKS.

They perform some on account of a bad dream, any
threatening evil, or because of actual sickness ; some-
times also by way of precaution, but this is only after
harvest when they have nothing better to do. The
theory of their ceremonies appears to be this : that
the offering of food made to the spirits assuages their
malice and secures their departure, these spirits being
considered the proximate cause of nearly all the evils
to which they are subjected.

The minor ceremonies are called “ nyiraiigan,”
because a bamboo altar* is erected by the roadside,
and a fowl killed near it, part of which, with rice
and betel-nut, is offered upon it : the taboo is only for
a day. If any one meets with an accidental death
in the jungle, a ceremony is gone through near the
spot ; at this a pig is occasionally killed, but in all
such cases the taboo lasts only one day. If during
farming time a tree fall across the path, a ceremony
is held, and all whose farms are in that direction
arc tabooed. If during harvest the basket into which
the ears of rice are cut be upset, a fowl is killed,
and the family to whom the basket belongs is tabooed.
Again, when the Government rice-tax is paid, there
is a ceremony. On this occasion a shed is erected
just at the entrance to the village, and in addition
to the offerings of food, it is hung with a number
of split cocoa-nut shells, which the spirits are sup-
posed to appropriate as gongs.

Images. — Although the Dayaks adhere with great
strictness to the command not to make any graven
image for purposes of worship, yet in some tribes they
are in the habit of forming a rude figure of a naked
* Sirangan, also a bamboo altar.

DREAMS.

189

man and woman, which they place opposite to each
other on the path to the farms. On their heads are
head-dresses of bark, by their sides is the betel-nut
basket, and in their hands a short wooden spear
These figures are said to be inhabited each hy a
spirit who prevents inimical influences from passing
on to the farms, and likewise from the farms to the
village, and evil hetide the profane wretch who lifts
his hand against them, — violent fever and sickness
arc sure to follow.

Among the tribes of Western Sarawak the priestesses
have made for them rude figures of birds. At the
great harvest feasts they are hung up in bunches of
ten or twenty in the long common room, carefully
veiled with coloured handkerchiefs. They are supposed
to become inhabited by spirits, and it is forbidden for
any one to touch them, except the priestesses.

Dreams. — The Dayaks regard dreams as actual
occurrences. They think that in sleep the soul some-
times remains in the body, and sometimes leaves it
and travels far away, and that both when in and out
of the body it sees, and hears, and talks, and altogether
has a prescience given it, which, when the body is in
its natural state, it does not enjoy. Fainting fits, or
a state of coma, are thought to be caused by the
departure or absence of the soul on some distant
expedition of its own. When any one dreams of a
distant land, as we exiles often do, the Dayaks think
that our souls have annihilated space, and paid a
flying visit to Europe during the night. Elders and
priestesses often assert that in their dreams they have
visited the mansion of Tapa, and seen the Creator
dwelling in a house like that of a Malay, the interior

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

190

of which was adorned with guns and gongs and jars
innumerable, Himself being clothed liked a Dayak.

A dream of sickness to any member of a family
always ensures a ceremony ; and no one presumes to
enter the priesthood, or to learn the art of a black-
smith, without being, or pretending to he, warned in
a dream that he should undertake to learn it. I
have known a man with only two children give his
younger child to another who was no relation, because
he dreamed that he must give it to him or the child
would die.

In dreams also “Tapa” and the spirits bestow gifts
on men in the shape of magic stones, which, being
washed in cocoa-nut milk, the water forms one of the
ingredients in the mass of blood and turmeric which
is considered sacred, and is used to anoint the people
at the harvest feasts. They arc ordinary black
pebbles, and there is nothing in their appearance to
give an idea of their magic power and value. The
ones in the Quop village were procured in a dream
by the late “ Orang Ivaya Bai Malarn,” in order to
replace those lost in the civil wars which desolated
the country before Sir James Brooke’s arrival. He
dreamt that a spirit came unto him and gave him a
number of these sacred stones ; and lo ! when he awoke,
they were in his hand. In some villages they arc kept
in a rude kind of wooden bowl covered and fastened
down, then fixed to the top of an iron-wood post in
the middle of the outside platform. In others they
arc deposited in a small house built in the jungle, at
some distance from the village, and all around it is
sacred. I will relate an anecdote Mr. Chalmers told

me : —

ANECDOTE— ORDEALS.

l'Jl

A Quop woman who had turned Malay was staying
at her village when the clergyman was there ; he had
a number of coloured-glass marbles, and one of these
this woman got hold of, and no doubt thought it very
strange and wonderful. Next morning, when she
awoke, she called loudly for white cloth, declaring at
the same time that the late Orang Kaya had appeared
to her in the night and given her a sacred stone, at
the same time producing the marble, and expected, no
doubt, a good price for it from the Dayaks. But they
are wiser now than of yore, and would have nothing to
do with it ; and the young fellows, hearing how she
had procured the marble, teased her on the subject
until her departure.

Ordeals. — One of the ordeals practised among them
is the following : When a quarrel takes place which
the elders find it impossible to settle, from conflicting
evidence, the disputants are taken to a deep pool in a
neighbouring stream, and both standing up to their
necks in the water, at given signals plunge their heads
below the surface : the first that rises to take breath,
loses the case. Among the Land Dayaks, these cere-
monies are not often practised. Another is by listen-
ing to the night-birds : if their cry be such as to be
considered a favourable omen, the accused is declared
not guilty ; if a bad omen, he is pronounced guilty and
must pay the fine demanded of him. The most com-
mon ordeal, however, is this : two wax tapers of equal
size and length are prepared, they arc lighted, and
the owner of the one that is first extinguished, or
burnt out, loses his case.

Omens. — If a man be going on a war expedition,
and has a slip during his first day’s journey, he must

192

SOCIAL LIFE OF TIIE LAND DA YAKS.

return to his village, especially if by the accident blood
he drawn, for then, should he proceed, he has no
prospect hut wounds or death. If the accident occur
during a long expedition, he must return to his last
night’s resting-place. In some tribes, if a deer cry
near a party who are setting out on a journey they
will return. When going at night to the jungle, if
the scream of a hawk, or an owl, or of a small kind of
frog he heard, it is a sign that sickness Avill follow if
the design he pursued ; and, again, if the screech of
the two former be heard in front of a party on the war-
path, it is an evil sign, and they must return. Omens
derived from the cry of birds are always sought pre-
viously to setting out on a journey, and before fixing
on a spot to build new houses, or to prepare their
farms.

The birds which give the omen for a journey arc
three, the “ Kushah,” “Kariak,” and “ Katupung.”
The traveller goes to a spot near the village where the
feast sheds arc usually erected, and sometimes a stage
of bambu is also made ready for the purpose. There
he waits till he hears the ofttimes long-awaited cries.
When the “Kushah” or “ Katupung ” are heard on
the right or the left only, or in front, no success will
attend the journey; hut if their cry be heard on the
left and then answered on the right, the traveller may
start in peace. The “ Kariak’s ” omen, however, is
more important still. If heard on the right hand, the
omen is good ; if on the left, some slight incon-
venience may follow ; if behind, sickness or death
awaits him in the place to which he is hound. How
common is the saying used, “ I had a had bird,” to
excuse every breach of engagement !

HEAD FEAST BENEFICIAL.

193

In house-building and farm-making all the birds of
night are consulted. During the day, a place in the
forest, which appears suitable, is fixed upon, and a
small shed erected near. Some boiled rice, stained
yellow with turmeric, and other offerings, are pre-
pared, and at night a party takes them to the hut
already built. This they enter, and an elder having
invoked the spiritual powers, and cast the yellow rice
in all directions, they await the omen. If a bird cry
and twitter in front, and if it then fly past the hut
towards the village, it is a good omen ; but if the
birds fly and alight near the hut, and there cry and
twitter, evil and sickness await those who build or
farm there, for many spirits have made that their
dwelling-place.

The reason assigned for using these bird omens is
that they are half Dayaks. Long ago, a spirit
married a Dayak woman, and the result of the
intercourse was the production of birds. These were
tenderly eared for and cherished by the Dayaks, and,
in return, from that time to this, they have ever
warned their former protectors of impending evil, if
duly consulted according to the customs which have
descended to the tribes from their ancestors.

Having thus given a brief account of Dayak cere-
monies, and feastings, and omens, I may conclude with
a remark, that, of all the feasts and ceremonies, the
most beneficial in its influence is the “ Head Feast.’’
The object of them all is to make their rice grow well,
to cause the forest to abound with wild animals, to
enable their dogs and snares to be successful in
securing game, to have the streams swarm with fish, to
give health and activity to the people themselves, and

VOL. I.

194

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

to ensure fertility to tlicir women. All these blessings,
the possessing and feasting of a fresh head are sup-
posed to be the most efficient means of securing. The
very ground itself is believed to be benefited and ren-
dered fertile, more fertile even than when the water
in which fragments of gold, presented by the Rajah,
have been washed, has been sprinkled over it ; this
latter charm, especially when mixed with the water
which has been poured over the sacred stones, being,
next to the possession of a newly acquired head, the
greatest and the most powerful which the wisdom of
the “ men of old time ” has devised for the benefit of
their descendants. It may, therefore, be understood
what importance Orang Kaya Mita attached to his
request that permission should be given to him to seek
another victim, and what influence he would have
gained with the tribe had they secured these blessings
by his means.

Language. — The vocabularies printed in the Ap-
pendix will, as Mr. Chalmers observes, show that
there is a great affinity betwixt the Dayaks of
Sarawak, Sadong, and some Sambas tribes. This
connection is not so visible in the dialects of others,
as, for instance, the Silakau tribe, who formerly
lived on a stream of the same name between the
Sambas and Pontianak. In the dialects of the Sea
Dayaks, there are perhaps a few words radically the
same as their correspondents in Land Dayak, but
only a few which are not derived in common from
Malay. In the dialect of the Dayaks of Banjermasin,
I have also noticed words the same in form and mean-
ing, but they are not very frequent.

My own experience has led me to the convic-

LANGUAGE — DEE1J.

195

tion that it is very difficult to draw any safe con-
clusion from the vocabularies generally collected,
because the best are usually made through the
medium of the Malay, and the worst by merely
showing articles and guessing that the response is
the name of the thing shown. I made a list of
Bisava words on the Limbang, another among the
Idaan at the foot of “ Kina Balu.” I was certain
of a great affinity between the languages, as men from
one tribe could freely converse with those of the
other, though their dwellings were a hundred and
fifty miles apart ; but on comparing the written
vocabularies, I found a surprising difference. Just
before I left Borneo, I spoke to a Bisava on the
subject : he said, “ Repeat me a few words of the
Idaan that arc different.” I did so. He answered, “ I
understand those words, but we don’t often use them,”
and he instantly gave their meaning in Malay, to
show that he did understand them.

My sudden and unexpected return to this country
prevented my pursuing the investigation. I mention
this circumstance to show that differences are often
more apparent than real. Mr. Chalmers’s vocabu-
laries are trustworthy, as he can speak the Land Dayak
freely.

Deer. — The Dayaks of the Quop district do not
refuse to eat deer. The custom of doing so, however,
obtains in Western Sarawak, but chiefly in the
Singgi tribe, and then only among the young men.

As will be found mentioned in my account of
Samarahan, they do so because deer’s flesh pro-
duces in those who cat it faint hearts ; and as I
have elsewhere observed, the interdict on certain

13—2

19(3

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

kinds of food to the young people is merely selfish-
ness on the part of the elders to secure to them-
selves a greater share of articles that arc not
plentiful. The Silakau and Lara Davaks who
have emigrated from Sambas into Lundu, do not
eat the flesh of the deer, from an opinion that they
descended from Dayak ancestors, but Mr. Chalmers,
in his experience of the Sarawak Land Dayak, never
heard of any prejudice existing against killing or
even eating any animals except the faint-heartedness
supposed to be produced by venison ; nor did he
notice that the serpent had any sacred character.
Many people cat it ; some, however, refuse, consider-
ing it foul-feeding.

The Sibuyau Dayaks of Lundu, from their greater
intercourse with Malays and Chinese, and from
the advantages they have derived from local self-
government, and freely trading with the surround-
ing districts, have lost most of their old supersti-
tions, as I have noticed in my account of the Sea
Dayaks : nor must I omit to mention that their inter-
course with a succession of able European officers,
and the constant presence among them of Mr. Gomez,
a missionary of singular tact, have had a remarkable
effect upon their characters, and rendered them a very
superior tribe. They kill the cobra and other reptiles,
but the Land Dayaks of Lundu, as well as the Silakaus,
consider it wrong to destroy it. They say that in
former times one of their female ancestors was pregnant
for seven years, and ultimately brought forth twins,
one a human being and the other a cobra de capella.
They lived together for some time, the snake always
keeping his head well out of the way for fear of

NAMES.

197

hurting his brother with his venomous teeth, but
allowing him to amuse himself with his tail. When
they grew up the cobra left the house to dwell in the
forest, but before leaving he told his mother to warn
her children, that should, unfortunately, one of them
he bitten by the hooded snake, not to run away, but
remain a whole day at the spot where the injury was
received, and the venom would have no poisonous
effect. Not loim after he was met in the forest bv

O J

his brother, who, under the effect of surprise, drew
his sword and smote off his tail, which accounts for
that blunted appearance observable in all his brethren.
The superstition of the snake curing the bite is
believed ; the wounded person being still allowed to
remain twenty-four hours in the jungle. During my
fourteen years’ residence in Borneo, I have only heard of
two persons dying from the effects of snake bites.

Names : —

Names of Men. Names of Women.

Mobon.

Si Ngaruk.

Si Kudon.

Tika.

Doden.

Si Gindai.

Si Risi.

Si Nyat.

Mage.

Si Ram.

Si Tuk.

Monog.

Nyait.

Si Rugi.

Si Ngada.

Sakot.

Rinyang.

Si Kangon.

Si Risok.

Si Rawang.

Si Ngais.

Sonyarn.

Si Kudi.

Sopop.

Marik.

Si Mara.

Si Bior.

Si Nuag.

Si Neg.

Sanyung.

Sanut.

The

above are personal

names ; when

young th

parents often change them, especially if the child be
sickly, there being an idea that they will deceive the
inimical spirits by following this practice. As the
children grow up they are dignified further by a
change of name: thus, “Si Mara” becomes “ Ma
Kari,” i.e. the father of Kari, being the name of a

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

198

child of his father’s or mother’s vo uimer brother or
sister. If this younger brother or sister have no
children, whose names are to spare, “Si Mara” must
wait until he gets a child of his own, and then he
takes his child’s name with “Ma” prefixed. The
same custom holds good with women ; — “ Si Risi,” a
personal name, being changed into “ Nu Sangut,” i.e.
the mother of Sangut. So, again, if the younger
brother or sister (and this is a most comprehensive
relationship) of a person’s father or mother have
grandchildren, then the “ Ma” and “ Nu” are aban-
doned for “ Bai ” and “ Muk,” the grandfather or
grandmother: thus, “ Ma Kari” might become “ Bai
Kinyum,” and “ Nu Sangut” be metamorphosed into
“ Muk Weit.”

Marriage.-— The prohibited degrees seem to be the
same as adopted among ourselves : marriage with a
deceased wife’s sister, it is said, is prohibited, as well
as that between first cousins ; and second cousins are
only permitted after the exchange of a fine of a jar,
the woman paying it to the relation of her lover, and
he to her relations. Among the Sibuyaus, however,
I have known an uncle marry his niece.

Heights. — Male Adults : 4 ft. 10 in. (short);
5 ft. 1 in. ; 5 ft. 3 in. ; 5 ft. 4 in. ; 5 ft. 5^- in. ;
5 ft. 7 in. Female Adults: 4 ft. 6 in. (short) ;
4 ft. 8 in. ; 4ft. 9 in. ; 4ft. 10^- in. ; 5 ft. ; 5 ft. 2 in.
(tall).

They have little or no knowledge of medicine,
though they sometimes collect pepper and onions with
which to make physic, a kind of stomachic. The
grated flesh of old cocoa-nut is occasionally applied to
wounds and bruises, but there is no general knowledge

MEDICINE — PRIESTESSES.

199

even of the powers of rice poultices. Blue-stone they
eagerly inquire for, and they have learnt its properties.
Their most common physic is to get a friend to chew
up a mass of sirih-leaves, areca and lime, until it is
reduced to a thick red juice, which is then squirted
from the mouth over the part affected. If this physic
be thus administered hy a regular doctor it will be
more efficacious, but any one may do it. This mess is
used indiscriminately for all diseases : stomach ache,
sore eyes, ulcers, wounds, boils, rheumatism, as well as
fever. When it is squirted on to the forehead it is
supposed to be efficacious in relieving the accompany-
ing headache. This is very much practised by the
Malays, who thus render their sick, objects of disgust.
I have often thought it necessary to insist upon the
patient being washed carefully before administering
European medicines.

I have already spoken of a mixture of blood
and turmeric being plastered on the head at the
regular ceremonies. On these occasions also the
check and forehead of those who take part in
them are marked with blood. I have also spoken
of bathing the patient in cocoa-nut water, and these
comprise all the medical applications of which I am
aware.

In most tribes, there are five or six priests, and in
some districts half the female population are included
under the denomination of priestesses.

In Western Sarawak they are not so numerous.
The power of these women consists chiefly in their
chanting, which is supposed to be most effectual in
driving away spirits. Strange to say, some of the
sentences they chant arc not in their own language,

200

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

but in Malay. These women are not necessarily im-
postors ; they but practise the ways and recite the
songs which they received from their predecessors, and
the dignity and importance of the office enable them
to enjoy some intervals of pleasurable excitement
during their laborious lives. Their dress is very gay;
over their heads they throw a red cloth, on the top of
which they place a cylindrical cap, worked in red,
white, and black beads, and their short petticoats are
fringed with hundreds of small, tinkling hawk-bells.
Around their neck is hung a heavy bead necklace,
consisting of five or six rows of black, red, and white
opaque beads strongly bound together. In addition,
they hang over their shoulders, belt-fashion, a string
of teeth, large hawk-bells and opaque beads. There
are several stories concerning' the origin of the
priestesses. That which is current in the Quop district
is as follows : —

Long ago, when the Dayaks were quite ignorant of
religion, a certain man and his wife had two daughters.
Both of them fell ill ; the parents knew of no remedy,
so they took a pig’s trough, placed the children within
it, and sent them floating down the river towards the
sea. The great “ Iang,” from his lofty seat, saw
them in this pitiful situation and crying helplessly, he
had compassion on them and took them to his dwelling
on the mountain of Santubong.

There lie cured them himself, and then taught them
the mysteries of religion, the formulas they were to
chant, the taboo they were to observe, and the rites
and ceremonies they were to perform. This done, he
transported them back to their own village, where
they were welcomed and reverenced, and it was they

priests’ practices.

201

who founded the sacred order of priestesses, as it now
exists throughout these countries.

The priests must in many respects he regarded as
impostors, though, of course, even with their deceit-
ful practices is mixed much superstitious credulity.
They pretend to meet and to converse with spirits,
to receive warnings, and sometimes presents from
them, to have the power of seeing and capturing the
departed soul of a sick man, and to be able to find
and secure for the Dayaks that vital principle of the
rice which “ Tapa ” sends down from above at their
two chief harvest feasts. To increase their authority,
they do not hesitate to declare that they have pre-
dicted every event. No accident happens to man or
goods of which they do not sav that they had previous
warning ; and a sick man scarcely ever calls upon
them for their aid when they do not tell him that for
some time previously they had known he was going to
have an attack. One of their commonest practices is
to pretend to extract from a sick man’s body, stones
and splinters, which they declare arc spirits ; they
wave charms over the part affected, and jingle them
upon it for a moment, then bring them to the floor
with a crash, and out of them falls a stone, or piece of
wood, or small roll of rag. At least half a dozen of
these evil spirits are occasionally brought out of a
man’s stomach, one after the other, and great is the
influence, and not small the profit, of a successful
priest. For getting back a man’s soul lie receives six
gallons of uncleaned rice; for extracting a spirit from
a man’s body, the same fee, and forgetting the soul of
the rice at harvest feasts he receives three cups from
every family in whose apartment he obtains it. The

202

SOCIAL LIFE OF TI1E LAND DAYAKS.

value of six gallons of uncleaned rice is not very great,
but it is the sixtictli part of the amount obtained by
an able-bodied man for bis annual farm labour.

The priestesses have their fees, but they do not
make so much from the superstition of their country-
men as the male professors.

Manufactures. — Among these are baskets of fine
rattan and coarse rattan mats. In each village there
is generally a blacksmith who can make, as well
as repair, their spears and choppers ; each man,
moreover, is bis own carpenter, gardener, and farmer ;
in fact, does almost everything necessary for the wel-
fare of his family.

Agriculture. — They plant rice, Indian corn, cucum-
bers, bananas, sweet potatoes, sugar-cane, kiladis,
yams, beans in their farms and gardens, and all kinds
of fruit-trees around their villages and on neighbour-
ing hills.

I will add a story which was kindly communicated
to me by Mr. Chalmers as to the introduction of rice
among the Dayak tribes.

Once upon a time, when mankind had nothing to
eat but a species of edible fungus that grows upon
rotting trees, and there were no cereals to gladden and
strengthen man’s heart, a party of Dayaks, among
whom was a man named Si Jura, whose descendants
live to this day in the Dayak village of Simpok, went
forth to sea. They sailed on for some time, until they
came to a place at which they heard the distant roar
of a large whirlpool, and, to their amazement, saw
before them a huge fruit-tree rooted in the sky, and
thence hanging down with its branches touching the
waves. At the request of his companions, Si Jura

STORY OF THE ORIGIN OF RICE.

203

climbed among1 its boughs to collect the fruit which
was in abundance, and when he was there he found
himself tempted to ascend the trunk and find out
how the tree grew in that position. He did so, and
at length got so high that his companions in the boat
lost sight of him, and after waiting a certain time
coolly sailed away loaded with fruit. Looking down
from his lofty position, Si Jura saw his friends
making off, so he had no other resource but to go on
climbing in hopes of reaching some resting-place, lie
therefore persevered climbing higher and higher, till
he reached the roots of the tree, and there he found
himself in a new country — that of the Pleiades.
There he met a being in form of a man, named Si
Kira, who took him to his house and hospitably
entertained him. The food offered was a mess of soft
white grains— boiled rice. “ Eat,” said Si Kira.
“What ! those little maggots?” replied Si Jura.
“ They are not maggots, but boiled rice ; ” and Si
Kira forthwith explained the process of planting,
weeding, and reaping, and of pounding and boiling
rice. Before eating, Si Kira’s wife went to get
some water, and during her absence Si Jura looked
into a large jar near where he was sitting, and there,
as in a telescope, he saw his father’s house, and
his parents and brothers and sisters all assembled
and talking. Ilis spirits were much depressed at the
remembrance of a home he perhaps might not sec
again, and instead of eating he began to weep. Si
Kira, wdio perceived at once what was the matter,
bade him cheer up and eat away, for he would arrange
everything for him satisfactorily. So Si Jura made
a hearty meal, and after eating, Si Kira gave him

204

SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS.

seed of three kinds of rice, instructed him how to cut
down the forest, burn, plant, weed, and reap, take
omens from birds, and celebrate harvest feasts ; and
then, by a long rope, let him down to earth again
near his father’s house.

Si Jura it was who taught the Dayaks to farm,
and to this day they follow the instruction lie received
from Si Kira — nay, more, the Pleiades themselves tell
them when to farm ; and according to their position
in the heavens morning and evening, do they cut
down the forest, burn, plant, and reap. The Malays
are obliged to follow their example, or their lunar
year would soon render their farming operations
unprofitable.

205

CHAPTER VII.

THE SAMARAIIAN RIVER AND THE CAVES OF
SIRIII.

A Storm — The Musquito Passage — The Samaralian — Rich Soil — -
The Malays — The Dayaks — The Malay Chief — The Sibuyau
Village — A Pretty Girl — Dragons’ Heads — Climbing Pole —
Drinking — “ The Sibuyaus get no Headaches ” — Force repelled
by Force — Gardens — Left-hand Branch — Difficult Path — Hill
of Munggu Babi — Former Insecurity — The Village — Welcome
— Deer Plentiful — Walk to the Sirih Caves — A Skeleton —
Illustrative Story — Method of Governing — Torches — Enter the
Recesses of the Cave — Small Chambers — -Unpleasant Walking
— Confined Passage — The Birds’ Nests’ Chamber — Method of
Gathering them — Curious Scene — The Cloudy Cave — Wine of
the Tampui Fruit — Blandishments- — Drinking — Dancing —
Bukars Hairy- — Scenery — Walk — “ The Sibuyaus do get
Headaches ” — Lanchang — Rival Chiefs — Ancient Disputes —
Deer Shooting — Wanton Destruction of Fruit Trees — Choice of
an Orang Kaya — Return to Boat — The Right-hand Branch —
The San Poks — Hot Spring — Tradition — Hindu Relics — The
Female Principle — The Stone Bull — Superstition — Story.

Started in the evening from our house at Kuching
amid a storm of rain, thunder, and lightning. Our
well-covered boat protected us, though the rain fell
in torrents and dashed impetuously against the
matted roof, creating so great a noise as to prevent
our voices being heard even when shouting. At
last the gusts of wind sweeping up the reaches
became so violent, that we were forced to draw under
the shelter of the hanks, and await the abating of
the storm. I never saw lightning more vivid, or

206 THE SAMARAHAN RIVER — CAVES OF SIRI1I.

heard the crash and rattle of the thunder more
deafening. The storm was evidently increasing : one
bright, blinding flash, and one ear-splitting peal, that
made my heart stand still, marked the crisis ; gradually
the lightning became less bright and the thunder

o O o

less loud, as the high wind carried the tempest before
it. In about an hour we were enabled to proceed.

As the night was very dark, and the ebb tide nearly
run out, we avoided passing into the Samarahan by
the Bliium, as the rocks there are dangerous at low
water, but chose another passage, very narrow, and, if
possible, to be avoided, as the name alone is a warning
— “the musquito passage.” It is famous for the size
and venom of that insect, — in fact, there is but one
other spot worse, and that is Paknam at the entrance
of the Siam river. The men, however, repented
their choice, as it took us the whole night to get
through, and no one was able to close his eyes.
The nipa palm nearly met over our heads, and every
time a leaf was disturbed a swarm of inusquitoes
settled on us. I endeavoured to shelter myself under
a blanket, but the heat was so great as to compel me
unwillingly to face the enemy. I have heard of men,
exposed to this annoyance for several days, being
thrown into a fever by constant irritation, and I can
well believe it.

It was daylight when we reached the Samarahan,
at a spot about twelve miles from the sea. The banks
of this river arc low, and consist entirely of rich
alluvial deposit. When cleared, they form the best
ground for rice; when drained the sugar-cane flourishes
with extraordinary luxuriance. It is, therefore, a
very favourite farming ground for all those strangers

THE MALAY CHIEF.

207

who have sought refuge in Sarawak. There are
several thousands scattered along its banks, besides the
native population of the river.

The Samarahan Malays are a quiet, inoffensive
people, and live almost entirely by farming and
gardening ; there is also a large Dayak population in
the interior. On the left-hand branch are the Bukar
tribe, divided into four villages — Munggu Babi, or
the hill of pigs, Jenang, Lanchang, and Kumpang — ■
which contain about three hundred families that pay
revenue. On the right-hand branch are the two tribes
of Sring and San Pok, each containing about eighty
families. I say “ pay revenue,” as it is seldom that
seventy-five per cent, do so. The custom is to pay
by the “ door,” that is, each division in their village
houses pays the Government rice to the value of from
three to four shillings. To avoid this, two or three
families will crowd into a space barely sufficient for
one ; however, measures have been taken to ensure a
proper enumeration.

Pulled on towards the village where Orang Kava
Stia Bakti, the principal Malay officer, lived, and
passed on our way the houses of a branch of the
Sibuyau tribe of Dayaks. At the landing-place we
were met by a crowd of Malays, looking especially
miserable, thus showing, that like good Mahomedans,
they were strictly keeping the fast ; while a crowd in
the neighbouring mosque where chanting in a loud
voice verses from the Koran.

The old Orang Kaya, a pleasant, fine-looking man,
came down to our boat, and our follower, Kasim,
explained to him the object of Captain Brooke’s tour
of inspection, which was to inquire into the charges

203 THE SAMARAIIAN RIVER-CAVES OF SIRIII.

brought against certain Malays of oppressing the
Dayaks. He said he was extremely pleased, as
it would then prove how well he and his people had
conducted themselves. lie offered to accompany us,
but this was politely declined on account of the fast,
but the real reason was that the Dayaks would not
have entered into their complaints before their local
ruler. As the flood-tide had just ended, and there
was a six hours’ ebb before us, we fell down the river
to the Sibuyau village to while away the time, and
give the men an opportunity to cook and sleep. We
were received with much hospitality by the Orang
Kaya Tumanggong. The hamlet consists of two long
houses, surrounded by a rough palisade, called by
them a fort.

The Samarahan was a favourite attacking ground
of the pirates, and owed much of its safety to the
courage of these Dayaks, who were formerly more
united than they arc now. The Sibuyau are, in
fact, strangers. Thev were harassed out of their
own country by the Seribas pirates and retired to
Samarahan ; they are now scattered, a section here,
a larger one on the Lundu river, another at Meradang
on the Quop, besides smaller villages on the Sarawak,
the Sadong, and in other districts.

Their houses are like the others belonging to the
Sea Dayaks ; the Orang Kaya’s own division is large,
with musquito curtains, and has an air of comfort and
tidiness very unusual. These Sibuyaus are more in-
dependent than the Land Dayaks, and keener traders.
One of the chief’s married daughters was quite
pretty, extremely fair, with soft expressive features,
and a very gentle voice ; she wras making an elegant

dragons’ heads.

209

mat of the finest rushes; other women were employed
in forming coarser ones from the rougher leaves,
while those that were not so engaged were turning

O O O

the padi into rice by beating it in their mortars,
and winnowing it. They show a skill in the latter
process truly marvellous : they put the beaten padi
into a flat basket with slightly rounded raised edges,
and standing on the platform to catch the slight
breeze, quietly throw the contents in the air, and
catch the grains while the wind carries away the
chaff ; it is quickly cleaned. There was an appear-
ance of activity and bustle about this village that was
really pleasing.

On the beams above our heads were some roughly
carved dragons’ heads ornamented with China paper,
which some wise Dayak had informed them must bo
guarded and preserved with care. They were quite
modern, and most probably a knave had worked on
these simple people to purchase them of him, as they
could not tell their use except to stick up during
their feasts, in the same way as the other Sea Dayaks
do with their rudely -carved figures of birds. In
front of their village was erected one of their
climbing-poles, at the raising of which the Orang
Kaya proudly declared one hundred and fifty jars
of tuak were consumed ; and he added, with an ap-
pearance of the greatest satisfaction, that his tribe
and all their visitors were intoxicated for six days.
At their convivial meetings some strong-headed fellow
will sit down before a jar holding, perhaps, a dozen
gallons, and help those around ; for every one he
serves out he should drink one himself, and it is his
pride if he can manage to keep his seat until all

VOL. I,

210 THE SAMARAHAN RIVER CAVES OF SIRIH.

have lost their senses around him. To take glass for
glass with each man until the jar was emptied being
a manifest impossibility, there must be some sleight
of hand practised to deceive the others. On inquiring
whether they never felt headaches the next day, they
said no ; but their Lingga visitors at the last great
feast had cried from the pains they suffered ; it was
ludicrous to notice the boastful look with which they
said, “ The Sibuyaus get no headaches.”

The Orang Kaya furnished us with fresh tuak,
which has rather a sickly, unpleasant taste, excellent
omelettes, and slices of fried kiladi, a species of arum ;
in return we presented him with Batavian arrack,
tobacco, and sugar. I have said that these Sibuyaus
are not so easily oppressed as the other Dayaks ; in
fact, when the Orang Kaya was a young man, the
most powerful Malay chief on the coast, Abdulraman,
the governor of Siriki, entered their village, and tried
to force them to purchase his goods at exorbitant
prices. They refused, upon which he directed his
followers to seize some baskets of rice, hut to his
astonishment the Dayaks resisted, drove him and his
party to their prahus, and in the struggle killed
several of his followers. The remembrance of this
and other similar deeds has given them confidence
and preserved them from oppression.

On the flood tide’s making, we took leave of our
hospitable friends and pulled up the river. Both banks
arc covered with gardens filled with fruit and vege-
tables, as well as with remarkably fine sugar-cane,
which is grown, not to be manufactured into sugar,
but to be eaten in its natural state.

Before daylight, we were again on the move. The

DIFFICULT PATH.

211

appearance of the country continues the same, hut
the houses, as we proceed farther up, are not quite
so numerous ; the gardens do not extend above a few
hundred yards from the river, and we could observe
the line of the forest even from our boat. We no-
where found the water shallow till we turned up the
left-hand branch that leads to the Bukar tribe ; here
it becomes very narrow and is obstructed by trees
and branches, and occasionally little pebbly rapids.
It was often almost impassable from the old trunks
of fallen trees that stretched from hank to bank ;
but by the greatest patience and perseverance, and
by removing the covering of our boat, we passed over
some and under others of these obstructions : at last
all these difficulties were surmounted, and we reached
the landing-place of the Munggu Babi Bukars about
half-past two, after upwards of eight hours’ hard
work.

It was pleasant to leave the perpetual mud flat of
dhe Samarahan and get into this branch, where
occasionally rocks, and banks overshadowed by the
enormous trees of the old forest, with glimpses of
hills and distant mountains, varied the scene. The
Samarahan, though not a very picturesque river,
would afford great satisfaction to any one who con-
templated sugar plantations. The soil is of the richest
description, and, from the existing cultivation, we
may infer what it would become in the hands of
able Chinese agriculturists. These Malays neither
use the spade, the hoe, nor the plough, but simply stir
the soil with a pointed stick, or with their iron
choppers.

At the landing-place we met a party of Sadong and

14—2

212 THE SAM A. HAH AN RIVER — CAVES OF SIRIH.

Bukar Dayaks, who shouldered our baggage ; we
then started on our way to Munggu Babi. The path
at first was detestable— the worst of paths, over slippery
trunks and branches of huge trees lying scattered
over the sites of their old rice farms, very perilous,
as the slightest slip endangered the safety of a limb.
To the bare-footed Dayak it is nothing, but shoes
render it unpleasant ; however, it soon changed into
the ordinary style ; and getting rapidly over about
four miles, we arrived at the foot of the hill on which
the houses are built. They were entirely hidden by
fruit-trees. Beyond rose the mountains of Sadong,
which can be seen from the decks of the ships that pass
along the coast. At the foot of Munggu Babi flowed
a delightful stream into which we plunged to dispel
some little fatigue arising from the heat. Our
Dayak attendants had pushed on with our baggage,
and being now refreshed we began climbing the steep
that separated us from the houses; no sooner
was this observed, than every available brass wall-
piece was fired in our honour, and it was under this
salute that we entered the village.

It is an illustration of the state of insecurity in
which these people formerly lived, and which is still
vivid in their imagination, that when those who were
returning from their farms heard the guns fired, they
hid themselves in the forest, thinking their homes
were surrounded by enemies ; and it was not until the
gongs beat out joyful sounds that they were reassured
and returned to their abodes.

The village is, as I have said, situated on the summit
of a little hill covered with every kind of fruit-tree ;
and was, the Bukars say, named Munggu Babi, from

DEER PLENTIFUL.

*213

the innumerable wild pigs that used to swarm upon
it, very well represented at the present day by their
civilized brethren. The first house is the Pangga or
head-house, lately erected, very comfortable, in which
we took up our lodgings ; a rough sort of street beyond
it, lined with very old-looking houses, rising one above
the other with the slope of the hill until the village
was completed by two more head-houses.

We appeared to be very welcome guests, and were
soon surrounded by the elders of the tribe and by crowds
of young men. We were the second party of white
visitors who had slept at this place, but the first pro-
bably who travelled in European style, and as usual
our proceedings excited much curiosity. Just as
dinner was over, we heard the pleasing announcement
that a Sambas Malay, who lived among the Dayaks,
had shot a fine buck which he very obligingly presented
to us. No one who has not lived principally on ducks
and fowls for many years can appreciate the import-
ance of such an event. We agreed to visit the famous
caves of Sirih the next clay, and in the evening to have
a search for deer. They are represented as very nume-
rous, as the Bukars do not eat their flesh, — a fortunate
event for their visitors, but not for themselves, as they
are thus deprived of good and easily-acquired food.

Up early, and after a hearty breakfast of deer-
steaks, started for the caves of Sirih. We passed up
the street that runs through the centre of the village,
the houses looking very dilapidated in comparison
with those of the Sibuyau Dayaks, but all were
swarming with children. An abrupt descent brought
us to a lower part of the stream that runs at the foot
of Munggu Babi, affording beautifully clear water for

214 TIIE SAMARAHAN RIVER — CAVES OF SIRIH.

the villagers. Continuing our course over the low
buttress of the Sadong mountains, where the Dayaks
have enclosed several spots for gardens, we had a beau-
tiful prospect of the surrounding country, better seen
however from the heights above, which we intended
passing over the next day. Two miles’ walk through
old farms and fresh felled jungle brought us to the foot
of a very steep hill in which the cave was situated.
Clambering up the rocks for a couple of hundred feet,
we suddenly found ourselves at the mouth of the cave.
The entrance is peculiar: divided formerly into three,
the fall of a pillar has united two of the openings into
one, which is above thirty feet in breadth ; at first
there appeared no far interior, but to the left a
descending passage led into the great cave. To the
right was a separate apartment with a fine opening,
forming the first division of the mouth, but inacces-
sible from the outside. The Dayak boys beckoned
us to come in. We went, thinking they wished us to
look out from thence on the beautiful valley below and
the lofty mountain beyond it ; but our surprise was
great when they pointed into a deep hole where lay the
skeleton of a human being.

Among the guides who were with us was a resolute
but very good-tempered looking Sarawak man, and as
he was standing near we asked him to explain the cause
of those bones being there. lie answered very quietly,
“It is only a Dayak that I shot many years ago.” We
asked him to explain, which he did without any hesi-
tation. Some years before these districts came under
Sir James Brooke’s influence, a chief named Bandhar
Kasim ruled over the Sadong province ; he was a
very harsh man and oppressed the Dayak more than

ILLUSTRATIVE STORY.

215

was usually the case among the neighbouring chiefs.
One tribe on the right-hand branch of the Sadong had
suffered very severely from his exactions. They only
murmured when he took their goods : when he

demanded their children they refused to give them
up, and flying to the Sirih caves threw up a barri-
cade across the entrance. This example he thought
might prove contagious among the neighbouring
tribes, so he determined to attack them ; besides lie
was delighted with the opportunity of acquiring slaves,
as every one he captured would be reduced to that
state. By promising to divide the booty and the captives
he soon collected a force of three hundred men, many
with firearms. These marched boldly to the attack,
but being received with a shower of heavy stones
and rolling rocks quickly withdrew to an open space,
a little grass spot which the narrator pointed out to
us. There being none present who appeared willing
to expose his life for the sake of Bandhar Kasim, the
whole affair seemed likely to terminate in a distant
hut harmless fire being kept up at the entrance of the
cave. At last Bandhar Kasim cried out, “ 1 will
give a slave to any man who will drive those devils
from their position.” The Sarawak man instantly
volunteered, if the others would support him. Plung-
ing into the jungle he reached the foot of the hill, and
by dint of strength and activity, contrived to climb
the almost perpendicular side of the mountain, and
reach a spot above the cave, from whence he came
down until he could look well over the barricade. The
descent was now very dangerous, but he prepared for it.
The first Dayak who showed himself he shot through
the body ; then throwing away his gun and taking

216 THE SAMAUAHAN RIVER — CAVES OF SIRIII.

advantage of the confusion caused by the fall of their
companion, he boldly swung himself down the rocks,
and sprang in among the astonished Dayaks crying,
“ Who is brave enough to fight me ? ” The unfortu-
nate wretches, thinking he must he well backed, fled
into the cave and were soon pursued by Bandhar
Kasim’s followers : two were killed and seven taken
prisoners; the rest escaped, as the cave extends quite
through the mountain.

While we were listening to this story, the Dayaks
had prepared dried sticks of a resinous wood by
splitting one end until it had the appearance of a
brush ; they were tolerable substitutes for torches.
We followed our guides down the narrow passage that
leads into the interior cave. They walked with the
greatest care, examining the ground before they placed
a foot ahead, knowing that the men who now collect
the edible birds’ nests here often place sharp pointed
pieces of bamboo sticking up in the path to punish
unwary interlopers. The cave gradually became
broader and more lofty, and our slight torches could
scarcely pierce the gloom that hung thickly around us.

As we advanced the form of the cave varied hut
slightly, until we reached a spot where we had to
pass through a sort of opening, like some of those
diminutive doors occasionally seen in odd nooks of
old cathedrals. Here we found ourselves in a small
chamber that appeared for a moment the termination
of our walk, hut in the right corner was a narrow
descending interstice in the rock, through which wre
could just squeeze our bodies to find ourselves again in
the lofty cave. The gentle fall of water told of the
neighbourhood of a stream, which now and then

VISIT TO TI1E CAVES.

217

became our path. The Dayaks say that there are fish
that see not, in the dark pool, which may at times he
observed, particularly under the rocks.

We soon arrived at a sloping surface over which
the water spread, rendering it difficult to prevent our
feet from gliding’ from under us. This I gladly
climbed, as we had been informed that during a heavy
shower of rain the water would suddenly rise to such
a height in the depressed portion of the cave we had
just passed, that all non-swimmers would be drowned.
The walking now became often unpleasant ; slippery
mud and no less slippery rock; the ascents and descents
were very abrupt, and occasionally we passed a deep
chasm where a slip might be fatal.

The stream that runs through the cave now and
then disappears under some rock to reappear fifty
yards ahead.

After continuing our course about a quarter of a
mile, we came on a spot where the height of the cave
from seventy feet decreased to three, and through this
aperture the wind blew sharply and felt very cold.
The Dayaks now proposed we should stop, as our
torches would not last longer than the time required
to return to the entrance ; but we said we wished to
advance as far as the chamber in which the edible
birds’ nests were collected ; so putting out some of the
torches we pushed on in a stooping position. One
fresher blast blew out some of the lights, and I
thought for a moment that we were about to be left
in the dark. A hundred yards brought us to the spot
where the Dayaks take up their abode during the
gathering season : it was a more lofty chamber than
any we had as yet passed through. The birds build

218 TIIE SAMAllAHAN RIVER— CAVES OF SIRIII.

as near as possible to the top of the cave, and the
dangerous operation of collecting the nests is per-
formed bv Dayaks who climb long poles fastened
together to the height of eighty or ninety feet, which
looked very poor scaffolding to sustain men at that
dizzy height. The gathering is slow work, taking them
five days. The nests found in these caves are very
inferior to those of Baram ; the former being like
dirty glue, the latter like the finest isinglass.

We should like to have penetrated farther and seen
the country on the opposite side, but the cave was
reputed dangerous and but seldom frequented, as the
Dayaks never go beyond the profitable chamber.
Th is would have rendered our progress slow, and the
blasts of cold wind might have blown out our torches,
now nearly consumed ; and if the chasms were as bad
even as those we had passed over, we could scarcely have
finished our journey in safety. Reluctantly, we gave
the order to return, when the whole body of little
Dayak boys who had accompanied us, half frightened
of ghosts and half in fun, started away yelling and
whooping, their torches occasionally throwing light on
the rocky sides and now fading away to mere specks
of light. The loftiness of this cave, its great extent,
the cry of the disturbed swallows, the peculiarly grave
look of our almost naked guides, the knowledge that
we were the first Europeans who had ever penetrated
to this spot, the distant shouts of the boys as they
were re-echoed back — all combined to render the scene
interesting and impressive.

From every calculation we could make, wre were
convinced that we penetrated the cave above a third
of a mile. It is the finest I have ever seen, hut I

BLANDISHMENTS.

219

afterwards heard that there is another called Gua
Mawap, or the cloudy cave, which is infinitely larger.
It is said that some Malays who had entered it to look
for birds’ nests lost their way and were no more heard
of. The Dayaks from this, or some superstitious
reason, did not mention its existence to us, as they are
very well aware that Englishmen have a propensity
to search every spot, whether dangerous or not.

We returned under a very hot sun to find that all
the villagers were in active preparation to have a
dance and a feast. We agreed after dinner to go to
the Orang Kaya’s house, and submit ourselves to their
will. They sent us a large decanter — where they got
it from I forgot to inquire — full of a very sweet and
pleasant liquor, of the colour of dark sherry, made
from the tampui fruit : it was stronger than it tasted.
While we were waiting for our dinner, we observed
two very pleasant-looking girls of sixteen come
cautiously up the ladder of the head-house. As it
was very unusual for women to enter this bachelor’s
hall, we quietly watched, while pretending to be en-
gaged in our toilette. Glancing at us, and thinking

O O O 7 o

themselves unobserved, they made their way over to
two Dayak youths who had accompanied us from the
Sibuyau village. The fair Ilebes bore in their hands
two large bowls of fresh tuak, which they pressed
their visitors to drink, hut they laughed and declined.
The young girls opened a regular battery of blandish-
ments, put their arms round them and besought them
to drink, not to give them the shame of having to take
the liquor back to their houses to be laughed at by
all the other girls; they wound up by saying, “ What !
are the Sibuyaus so weak-headed as to fear to drink

220 THE SAMARAHAN RIVER— CAVES OF SlRIH.

Bukar tuak ? ” This was the coup de grace ; the
youths, already half overcome, raised the bowls to
their lips, and were not allowed to set them down till
they had drained the last drop. The girls then ran
away laughing, knowing the effect that must soon
follow the draught.

The Davak women seldom, if ever, drink, but
some of them appear delighted to see their husbands
and brothers in a wretched state of intoxication.
Mr. Crookshank told me that he arrived at a Sadong
village during one of their drinking feasts : the men
were already staggering in their walk, and towards
evening were sitting and lying about too drunk to be
able to raise the bowls to their lips, when the women
took that office upon them and poured the liquor down
the drunkards’ throats. It must not be supposed,
however, that the Dayaks are habitual drinkers ; on
the contrary, except at their feasts, they are a very
sober people.

In the evening, we went to the Orang Ivaya’s house,
and had to go through most of the ceremonies I have
already described in the account of our visit up the
left-hand branch of the Sarawak river. During
the dancing of the old people, we inquired whether
the young women never danced, and on our promising
a gift of a brass chain that the girls wear round the
waist to all who would join the elders : there was no
lack of competitors. It was mischievously suggested
to the Orang Kaya’s daughter that I was a famous
dancer, and it was amusing to notice the eagerness
with which the girls besought me to join them ; as
four drew me gently into the vortex it was impossible
to resist, though 1 quickly disengaged myself by

SCENERY.

221

assuring them that on their split bamboo floors no
European could dance.

The most remarkable peculiarity of many of these
men is their being so hairy in comparison to those of
other tribes, some having regular whiskers, and others
beards. The women have their limbs spoilt from
carrying heavy weights, even from their tenderest age,
over exceedingly steep ground ; their legs appeared
bent. I sawr one mother bearing on her back two
children, and a basket containing twenty or more
bamboos full of water, the latter a sufficient load for
one person. In the harvest, they act as beasts of
burden, and bring the bulk of the rice home. The
children, in general, were very clean and pleasing.

W e started early in the morning for Lanchang, the
second division of the Bukar tribe that we intended
to visit. The path was over the Sadong mountains,
where a depression in the range renders its elevation
not perhaps over a thousand feet. As we moved
along the open ground among the fenced-in gardens,
we were enabled to obtain a very extensive view of
the surrounding country, and I have rarely seen one
of greater beauty ; the variety of form assumed by the
hills from the mountain range to the isolated peak
rising from the fertile plain of the Samarahan and
Quop, the extent of ground over which the eye could
travel from the Santubong and the sea to the interior
hills of Sadong, rendered it almost as lovely and as
interesting as the famous scene from the summit of
the Penang Hill. It wanted but the civilized appear-
ance which is found there — the houses, villas, churches,
ships, and roads. The way over the hill was very
difficult, consisting entirely of small felled trees,

222 TIIE SAMAIIAHAN RIVER — -CAVES OF SIRIH.

notched, and in a very rotten state, and sometimes
both steep and slippery. However, we got over it
without a fall, and managed to work our way to the
opposite side, whence the valley of the Bukar stream
and the interior of the Sadong are visible — pretty
enough, but all scenery here has similar charac-
teristics.

The sun was very warm, and the perspiration
ran from me in streams ; but meeting1 with a cool
rivulet, shaded by overhanging rocks, not by trees,
we sat still till perfectly cooled, and then refreshed
ourselves by a bathe under a tiny but foaming cascade.
The two Sibuyau youths who had been so fascinated
by the fair maidens the previous night looked very
woful this morning, and could hardly get along at all
or carry their own baggage, but sat moodily looking
at the water, with their heads pressed lightly between
their hands.

From this spot our path continued among the
valleys, over rice plantations, without any remarkable
feature. At length we reached the village of Lan-
chang, on the borders of a pebbly stream. It is built
on the low land, and has a greater appearance of
comfort than Munggu Babi. As we were their first
European visitors, we excited a great deal of curiosity;
but forcing our way through the crowd, we took up
our quarters in the head-house, making our beds, as
usual, beneath a ghastly row of skulls.

We were welcomed by the old Orang Ivaya Sunan
in the absence of the rival chiefs. In this village
five men claim the supremacy, having been appointed
at different times by various people. Sunan had
been promoted some thirty or forty years before by

RIVAL CHIEFS.

223

the Saltan of Brunei, but was now too old to do his
work effectually : the other four Orang Kayas were
irregularly named by certain native officers without
any authority. As I have elsewhere observed, under
the former system, the Malay chiefs received half
the revenues of the Dayak tribes instead of salary,
which opened the door to many abuses. The great
evil-doer wTas the Datu Patinggi of Sarawak, who
had charge of Lanchang. When he found that an
Orang Kaya would not sufficiently second him in
his endeavour to monopolize the trade, he would
appoint another. All this was quite illegal ; it wras
to do away with these abuses, and to inaugurate
a new system, that Sir James Brooke had directed
Captain Brooke to make these tours of inspection
through all the principal districts of Sarawak and its
dependencies.

The consequence of having five Orang Kayas in
this village ivas of necessity a series of disputes, and
the day before our arrival two of them had quarrelled
violently, and one proposed that, to settle the matter,
they should sally out into the neighbouring countries,
and the first who should bring home a head should be
declared victor, and have the case decided in his
favour. It was their ancient custom, not that they
dared to carry it into practice.

Captain Brooke summoned the five Orang Kayas
before him, and ordered them to appear at the
capital, when it would be settled who should he
appointed by the Government ; in the meantime he
set our followers to make inquiries among the prin-
cipal families, who was considered fittest for the office
and was most popular among the tribe.

224 TIIE SAMAR AHAN RIVER — CAVES OF SIRIII.

Presently a small crowd assembled, and asked to
have their cases settled ; hut finding that none of
them were of less than twenty years standing, they
were told that it would he impossible to finish them
so quickly, and they were put off. None of them
really expected to have their disputes arranged, but
they appeared delighted to have a grievance to
relate. I have never seen any Land Dayaks with
an air of greater comfort ; they appear to be well
fed, and, consequently, are more free from skin
diseases than their neighbours.

In the evening, we went out to look for deer.
After making a circuit of a few miles, I reached a
stream near which the animals are usually found,
when, to my disgust, I heard a shot fired, followed
immediately by another. I ran forward only in time
to see a fine buck spring into the forest and another
stretched lifeless at Captain Brooke’s feet. He came
to the spot, saw two grazing together, and with an
old-fashioned cavalry carbine knocked over one ; the
other stood astonished, which gave him time to reload
and hit him heavily. We tracked him for a little
distance, but the night closing in prevented our finding
him. Our follower, Kasim, saw eight, wounded
one, but did not succeed in securing him. My indig-
nation at the mistake of my guide in bringing me
to a spot already engaged was much mitigated by the
prospect of deer-steaks for dinner.

That night there were the usual ceremonies and
dances without an incident to vary them : they kept
us up rather late.

Walked over to Jenang: it was hut three miles
off, through gardens, groves of fruit-trees, old rice-

THE SAN POKS.

225

grounds, and underwood. We noticed with much
indignation that hundreds of tine fruit-trees were
destroyed, and on inquiry found it had been done
by the old Orang Kaya Sunan, who wanted to have
a farm near his own house. The trees belonged to
the tribe, who vainly tried to persuade him not to
do it ; but being backed by the Datu Patinggi, he
would not listen to them. The village of Jenang
is small and of little consequence, numbering but
twenty-five families, and had not arrived at the
dignity of an Orang Kava. Their head-house was
very old and small, the worst we had seen.

All the elders were called together in the morning

to choose an Orang Kaya ; and instead of fixing on
one of themselves, their choice fell on a young man
of rather heavy appearance, who seemed, however, to
be an universal favourite. After this ceremony we
started off to Munggu Babi, through the valleys and
lowlands between the hills. The walk was long and
very much exposed to the sun, but we reached that
village by one, and after a short rest pushed on to our
boat.

As we had heavy rain the previous night, the
stream was much swollen, but it helped us over many
obstructions, though it rendered some few more
difficult. We brought up for the night a short
distance from the junction.

Started up the right branch of the Samarahan to
meet the San Poks, who were a primitive tribe, never
yet visited by Europeans. We were detained several
hours by the numerous obstructions in the river. At
one place, a huge tree had fallen across, and rendered
a passage impossible, except by dragging the boat

VOL. I.

226 THE SAMARAHAN RIVER — CAVES OF SIRIH.

over. We tried ; but an ominous crack made us
quickly push her back into the stream. We then
with axes removed a portion of the trunk, and at last
got safely over. We met a party of San Poks coming
down the river, who returned with us. We did not
reach their landing-place till three p.m. A very dirty
walk of two miles brought us to their village-house,
which was new : the tribe having but lately removed
hither. The country we passed over was undulating,
occasionally descending in abrupt ravines. The San
Poks had chosen a low, cleared hill for their domicile.
We were welcomed by a perfect storm of good wishes,
seized on by a dozen women, who insisted on washing
our feet, tying little hells round our wrists, and
dancino- before us enthusiastically. Verv few could
understand Malay. We inquired about the deer-
grounds ; hut as these Dayaks are partial to deer’s-
tlesh, there was no game to be found in the neigh-
bourhood.

The San Poks appeared mad with excitement ;
they danced, and drank, and beat their gongs and
drums till daylight, affording us hut snatches of
slumber. Their ceremonies were exactly similar to
those I have formerly described.

Turned our faces towards home. When we came
to theBukar branch, we entered a small Dayak canoe
and paddled a short distance up to land near a spot
where a hot spring was said to exist. We went
ashore, and wandered on for about a mile, our guides
evidently not quite certain of the path. At length we
reached a small stream flowing through a flat tract
of jungle — the soil a dark mud; tried it, and certainly
it was very warm. Following its course, we came

HINDU RELICS.

2-7

to the place where the water bubbled up from the
ground through the black soil. The spring was
about six feet by three where it issued from the
earth, and supplied a shallow rill about a yard in
breadth. The water we could see bubbling up
through liquid mud. I tried to keep my feet in it,
but it was far too hot, and left a burning sensation.
A vapour rose above it, but the water had no percep-
tible taste or smell.

A few planks of an old boat that we found at this
spot have given rise to a story among the Dayaks
of an ancient ship being lost here when this lowland
was covered by the sea. The planks evidently were
part of a Sea Dayak boat, from the way they were
cut, and were of a line wood called marbau. They
have been here for many years — perhaps this water
has a preservative effect. The aborigines say that
this spring is the work of evil spirits, and therefore
will not approach it alone. We brought away a few
bottles of it. It appeared a curious place to find
a warm-water spring : no high land near ; indeed, no
rocks, but all an alluvial fiat.

Fell down the j’iver till night. We sent our men
ashore in one place to examine a stone that was, as
usual, in some way connected with spirits. We had
it removed to Sarawak. It proved to be the repre-
sentation of the female principle so common near
Hindu temples : its necessary companion was not
found, or, being more portable, had been removed,
though formerly it was observed there.

There is but one more known material remnant of
Hindu worship in these countries : it is a stone bull —
an exact facsimile of those found in India. It is cut

15—2

223

THE SAMARAHAN RIVEll — CAVES OF SIR1II.

from a species of stone said not to be found in
Sarawak : the legs and a part of the head have been
knocked off. Its history is this : Many years ago, on
being discovered in the jungle, the Malays and Dayaks
removed it to the bank of the river, preparatory to
its being conveyed to the town ; hut before it could
he put into a prahu, they say, a tremendous storm
of thunder and lightning, wind and rain, arose, which
lasted thirty days. Fearing that the hull was angry
at heimj disturbed in his forest home, they left him
in the mud. When Sir James Brooke heard that
this sacred hull was lialf-huried in the soil, he had it
removed to his house. Several of the Dayak tribes
sent deputations to him to express their fears of the
evil consequences that would he sure to ensue — every-
thing would go wrong, storms would arise, their crops
he blighted, and famine would desolate the land.
Humouring their prejudices, he answered, that they
were mistaken, that the hull, on the contrary, would
he pleased to be removed from the dirty place in
which the Malays had left him, and that now he was
kept dry and comfortable, they would find he would
show no anger. They were satisfied with this reply
and departed. Occasionally, some of the Dayaks
will come and wash both of these Hindu relics, and
hear away the water to fertilize their fields.

Among some of the aborigines there is a super-
stition that they must not laugh at a dog or at a
snake crossing their path. Should they do so, they
would become stones. These Dayaks always refer
with respect and awe to some rocks scattered over the
summit of a hill in Sadong, saying that they were
originally men. The place was a very likely one to

STORY.

OOC)

be haunted — noble old forest, but seldom visited.
They tell the following story : — Many years ago, a
great chief gave a feast there, in the midst of which
his lovely daughter came in: she was a spoilt child,
who did nothing but annoy the guests. They at first
tried to <101 rid of her by mixing dirt with her food :
finding she still teazed them for more, they gave
her poison. Her father, in his anger, went back to
his house, shaved his dog, and painted him with
alternate streaks of black and white. Then giving
him some intoxicating drink, he carried him in his
arms into the midst of the assembly, and placed him
on the ground. The dog began to caper about in the
most ludicrous manner, which set all off laughing,
the host as well the guests, and they were imme-
diately turned into stone.

230

CHAPTER VIII.

THE MOUNTAIN OF KINA BALU.

FIRST EXPEDITION.

First Ascent by Mr. Low — Want of Shoes — Set Sail for the Tampasuk
— Beautiful Scenery — The Abai — Manufacture of Nipa Salt —
Uses of the Nipa Palm — A Lanun Chief — Baju Saddle — Baju
a Non-walker — Our ride to the Tampasuk — Gigantic Mango
Trees — The Datu’s House — Its Arrangements — The Datu and
his People — Piratical Expedition — A Bride put up to Auction
— The Bajus — Mixed Breeds — Quarrels with the Lanuns —
Effect of Stealing Ida’ an Children — Fable of the Horse and his
Rider — Amount of Fighting Men — Freedom of the Women —
Killing the Fatted Calf — Beautiful Prospect — A nc v Gardinia
— Pony Travelling — Difficulty of procuring Useful Men —
Start — An Extensive Prospect — Cocoa-nuts and their Milk — -
A View of Kina Balu — Granite Debris — Our Guides — Natives
Ploughing — Our Hut — Division of Land — Ginambur — Neatest
Village-house in the Country — Its Inhabitants — Tatooing —
Curiosity — Blistered Feet — Batong — Granite Boulders — Ford-
ing— Fish-traps — Tainbatuan — Robbing a Hive — Search for
the Youth-restoring Tree — Our Motives — Appearance of the
Summit of Kina Balu — A long Story — Swimming the River —
Koung — Palms not plentiful — Lanun Cloth — Cotton — Nominal
Wars — The Kiladi — Attempt to Levy Black-mail at the Village
of Labang Labang — Resistance — Reasons for demanding it —
Bamboo flat-roofed Huts — Ingenious Contrivance — Kiau —
Dirty Tribe — Recognition of Voice — A Quarrel — Breaking the
Barometer — Opposition to the Ascent of Kina Balu — Harmless
Demonstration — Thieves — Mr. Low unable to Walk — Continue
the Expedition alone — Cascade — Prayers to the Spirit of the
Mountain — Flowers and Plants — Beautiful Rhododendrons —
Cave — Unskilful Use of the Blow-pipe — Cold — Ascent to the
Summit — Granite Face — Low’s Gully — Noble Terrace —
Southern Peak — Effect of the Air — The Craggy Summit —
Distant Mountain — Dangerous Slopes — Ghostly Inhabitants —
Mist — Superstitions — Collecting Plants — Descent — Noble

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FIRST ASCENT BY MR. LOW.

231

Landscape — Difficult Path — Exhaustion — Mr. Low not Re-
covered— Disagreeable Villagers — Recovering the Brass Wire
— Clothing — Distrust — A lively Scene — Our Men behave well
— Return on Rafts to the Datu’s House.

To ascend Kina Balu had been an ambition of mine,
even before I ever saw Borneo. To have been the first
to do it would have increased the excitement and the
pleasure. However, this satisfaction was not for me.
Mr. Low, colonial treasurer of Labuan, had long
meditated the same scheme, and in 1851 made the
attempt. It was thought at the time but little likely
to succeed, as the people and the country were entirely
unknown ; but by determined perseverance Mr. Low
reached what may fairly be entitled the summit,
though he did not attempt to climb any of the rugged
peaks, rising a few hundred feet higher than the
spot where he left a bottle with an inscription in it.

In 1856, Mr. Lobb, a naturalist, reached the foot
of the mountain, but was not allowed by the natives
to ascend it.

In 1858, Mr. Low and I determined to make
another attempt ; and early in April I went over from
Brunei to Labuan to join him. We waited till the
15th for a vessel, which we expected would bring us a
supply of shoes, but as it did not arrive we started.
This was the cause of most of our mishaps, — as a
traveller can make no greater mistake than being
careless of his feet, particularly in Borneo, where all
long journeys must be performed on foot.

In 1851, Mr. Low had gone by the Tawaran, but
the Datu of Tampasuk, who wras on a trading voyage
to Labuan, having assured us that it was easier to
get to the mountain from his river, we determined

232

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

to try that route. lie started before us, and on
April 15th we followed, in a pinnace, obligingly
lent us by Dr. Coultbard, of the Eastern Archipelago
Company, our party being very large for the con-
veyance— Mr. Low and myself, two servants, six
crew, and seventeen followers. During the night
we passed Pulo Tiga, and were off Papar in the
morning. We sailed along' as beautiful a coast as
can be conceived : ranges of hills rising one beyond
the other, some grass-covered, others still clothed in
forest, with soft valleys and lovely hays, and here and
there patches of bright sandy beach, with Kina Balu
towering in majestic grandeur as a background. In
fact, the prospect increased in beauty until, on the
evening of the 17th, we reached Abai, where we found
the Datu of Tampasuk in his prahu. The little bay
at the entrance of the Abai affords shelter from all
winds except the N.W. ; the bar, however, having
only a fathom at low water prevents any but small
craft from entering the river. On the sandy point
of the grassy plain, at the west side of the entrance,
is a small well where boats may water. The Datu
came off and agreed to go up the Abai with us, and
send his own boat round by sea to Tampasuk.

Started at four a.m., but made very slow pro-
gress, the wind blowing down the river, and the
flood-tide not being strong. However, by towing
and warping, we managed to reach our anchorage
about ten p.m. The banks near the entrance appear
to be high, hut it was almost dark as we passed
them ; then narrow mangrove swamps fringed the
shores with occasionally grassy hills in the back-
ground. On the left bank there are two small

THE MPA PALM.

233

branches, Gading and Paka Paka, inhabited, the
Datu said, by some villages of Ida an. There appear
to be but few people living on this river, or rather
salt-water creek. Three very small hamlets, contain-
ing altogether about thirty houses, were all I saw.
There are numerous sheds for making salt, which
appears to be the principal industry of the Bajus.
The manufacture is conducted as tollows : — Great
heaps of the roots of the nipa palm, that always grows
in salt or brackish water, are collected and burnt ;
the residue is swept up and thrown into half-filled
pans, where the ashes and small particles of wood are
separated, and the water boiled ; — a coarse, bitter
salt is the result. It is not disagreeable after a little
use, and I much prefer it to the common article
brought from Siam, and generally sold in these
countries. The natives of the north seldom use the
imported salt, except for preserving fish ; whereas,
towards Sarawak, the Siamese is rapidly taking the
place of that procured from the nipa palms.

The nipa palm is indeed a blessing to the natives ;
as we have seen, they make a salt from the ashes of the
root ; they extract a coarse sugar from the stem ; they
cover in their houses with the leaf; from the last also
they manufacture the mat called kejang, with which
they form the walls of their houses, and the best
awning in the world for boats, perfectly water-tight,
and well adapted to keep out the rays of the sun.
Their cigars are rolled up in the fine inner leaf; and
a native could doubtless tell of a dozen other uses to
which it is put. In ascending rivers there is nearly
always deep water near the nipa, but shallow near
the mangrove.

234

KINA BALU— FIRST EXPEDITION.

The Abai creek has generally more than two
fathoms from the mouth to the hamlets, but never
less. We anchored opposite a Lanun chiefs house,
which, though on the left bank, is still towards Tam-
pasuk, as the river, after proceeding in a southerly
direction, suddenly turns to the north-east.

The Rajah Muda, the Lanun chief, came on board,
and was very civil. lie is a handsome-looking,
manly fellow, and extremely polite. From what I
have heard and seen, he is a type of his countrymen —
a different race from the Baju : a slight figure, more
regular features than the Malays, a quiet, observant
eye ; he wore a delicate moustache. lie is the son of
the late Pangeran Mahomed, of Pandasan, whose
grave, ornamented with seven-fold umbrellas, we
passed on the river’s bank.

Knowing that we could ride from Abai to Tampa-
suk, we had brought our English saddles, and were
soon mounted on indifferent ponies, making our way
towards the Datu’s house in an easterly direction.
The Baju saddle, made of wood, covered with thin
cloth, is very small. Instead of stirrups they have
a rope with a loop in the end, into which they insert
their big toe, and ride with the soles of their feet
turned up behind ; and when they set off on a gallop
they cling with their toes under the pony’s belly.

The Baju is essentially a non-walker. He never
makes use of his own legs if he can possibly get an
animal to carry him. He rides all the horses and
the mares, even when the latter have but just foaled.
Cows arc equally in requisition, and it was laughable
to observe one of these animals with a couple of lads
on her back trotting along the pathways, a calf, not a

OUR RIDE TO THE TAMPASUK.

235

week old, frisking behind her. The water buffalo,
however, appeared to he the favourite — the strong
beast constantly carrying double. Every man we
met had a spear, which was extremely useful in ford-
ing rivers, as well as for defence.

We rode at first over a small plain, about two miles
in extent, half of which we had to traverse : it was
bounded on either side by a low sandstone range, and
before us was a connecting ridge, which we had to
cross before entering the Tampasuk district. From
its top, we had a view of the country : beneath us was
a plain, extending some miles beyond the river ; not
very pleasant riding, as every here and there a slushy,
muddy stream crossed the path, into which our ponies
sunk up to their girths, and found some difficulty in
floundering through. There were signs that cultivation
is occasionally carried on here, and I should imagine
it well adapted for rice fields. As it happened to be
a very warm day, we were not sorry, after a ride of
two miles and a half, to reach the river’s bank, where
we found a most agreeable shade under gigantic mango
trees. I call them gigantic — they were for this country,
being above two feet in diameter, and probably sixtv
feet high. Unfortunately, it was not the fruit season.
Very few mangoes in Borneo are worth eating.
Occasionally we find them with delicate flavour ; but
nothing to equal the magnificent fruit of Bombay. I
was anxious to taste the produce of these trees, as
from former intercourse with the Spaniards the natives
might have obtained seeds from Manilla, where the
fruit arrives at great perfection. A half mile of
shady ride brought us to the ford opposite to the
Datu’s house, where we found the Tampasuk, a

236

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

hundred yards wide, but not more than three feet
deep — clear, cool, and rapid.

After enjoying a pleasant bathe, we strolled on for
a hundred yards to the Datu’s house, which is really a
good and comfortable one, and we were agreeably sur-
prised at the excellent accommodation. It is double-
storied, with plank walls. The lower part of the
house consisted of one great room, surrounded by
broad verandahs; the end ones being partially parti-
tioned off. In one of these we were lodged, and found
all the ladies of the family engaged in preparing our
apartment and covering the floor with nice clean
mats of brilliant colours, which, with our own bedding,
soon made us comfortable. The great room, or hall,
was the chiefs, in the centre of which was an immense
resting-place or bed, and behind were heaps of boxes,
containing the wealth of the family, piled as I had
seen done in Sulu. The upper story appears to he
reserved for the daughters and other unmarried girls,
who, as their floor was only of split bamboo, could
look through and watch all our movements ; and the
occasional light laughter showed that we afforded
them some amusement.

The Datu of Tampasuk is considered the head of
the Bajus in these districts, but his power is more
nominal than real. The race is, individually, very
independent, and no one appears ready to obey autho-
rity ; and the same character may be given to their
neighbours, the Lanuns and Ida’an. Mengkabong
and Tampasuk arc their chief ports, though they are
scattered in many other districts, both on this and
the north-eastern coast. They were formerly very
piratical, and even now are unwilling to let a favour-

PIRATICAL EXPEDITION.

237

able opportunity pass. Their lawlessness is proverbial :
one instance will suffice. A large party went on an
expedition to the island of Banguey, where they
anchored opposite a village, and commenced trading,
being, they said, particularly anxious for tripang,
or edible sea-slug. The fishermen dispersed in quest
of this article, but had no sooner gone than the
crews of the prahus landed, surprised the village,
killed or drove away the few men that remained,
and captured about twenty-eight women and children.
This little incident was much talked of at the time,
as they managed to seize a young bride, just decked
out for a wedding, loaded with all the gold orna-
ments of the village. This young girl, contrary to
their usual custom, was, it is said, put up to auction
by her captors, as she was too valuable to he one
man’s share. Yet both the people of Banguey and
Mengkabong are claimed by the Brunei Government
as their subjects. I have little doubt that, on hear-
ing of this affair, the only reflection of the ministers
was — “We wish those Mengkabong people were
nearer, that we might have a share of the plunder.”
When not engaged in sea expeditions, the Bajus
employ themselves in a peddling trade with the abori-
gines, exchanging nipa salt, with a little iron and
cloth, for tobacco and rice ; the former they sell to
the Malays. I must not omit to notice that the
Bajus are very expert fishermen, and catch and salt a
great quantity every year, which they sell to the
inhabitants of the hills. Some few have gardens,
and plant rice, and, in a lazy, careless way, rear
cattle, ponies, and buffaloes. They profess Islamism,
hut do not probably understand much beyond the

238

KINA BALU FIRST EXPEDITION.

outward observances, though they keep the fast with
greater strictness than most of the Malays. No
one can accuse the Bajus of being a handsome race ;
they have generally pinched-up, small faces, low fore-
heads, but bright eyes; the men are short, slight, but
very active, particularly in the water ; the women have
similar features, and arc slighter and perhaps taller
than the Malay ; they wear their hair tied in a knot on
the fore part of the head, which has a very unbecoming
appearance. I never saw a good-looking face among
them, judging even by a Malay standard. The Datu
had live daughters, as well as five sons — a large
family, but a thing by no means rare in Borneo.

We saw many men that differed totally from the
above description, but, on inquiry, found they were of
mixed breed. I asked one of what race he was. He
answered four — Baju, Lanun, Malay, and Chinese.
He was a broad-faced, ugly-looking fellow, one of our
guides. Another, rather good-looking, claimed to
be descended of four races also — Baju, Sulu, Lanun,
and Malay. Almost all those we asked were of mixed
parentage, which renders it difficult to describe a
particular tribe; yet the Baju is a distinct animal
from the Malay, and does credit to his name of
Sea Gipsy, as he has quite the appearance of that
wandering tribe.

We heard much of their differences with the
Lanuns, who occupy the mouth of the Tampasuk,
and were formerly very powerful on this coast ; their
own oppressive conduct turned the people of the in-
terior against them, and at Tawaran they were driven
out. They were accused of stealing the children of
the Ida’an. I say driven out — I should rather have

TIIE LANUNS AND BAJUS.

239

said, teazed out. Xo people in this country can cope
with them in battle ; so the Ida’an kept hovering
around the Lanun villages to cut off stragglers. At
last, no one could leave the houses even to fetch tire-
wood, unless accompanied by a strong armed party,
which interfered so much with their piratical pursuits
that they at last abandoned the country, and retired
to Tampasuk and Pandasan. Here they were in 1845
attacked by Sir Thomas Cochrane, and their villages
burnt. This again broke up their communities, and
most of those who were addicted to piracy retired to
the north-east coast, to Tungku and the neighbouring
rivers. Since then they have gradually so dwindled
away in these countries, that now, it is said, they
scarcely muster two hundred fighting men. Even
these are under various chiefs, who delight in giving
themselves high-sounding names, as Sultan, Rajah,
Rajah-Muda ; though, perhaps, scarcely able to man
a war prahu with their followers.

The present cause of quarrel between the Lanuns
and Bajus is theft, mutual reprisals ending in the
death of one of the latter. The Datu talked of
nothing but war ; he said lie had been advised by the
Spanish missionary, Signor Cuateron, to apply to the
Spaniards at Balabak to assist him in expelling the
Lanuns, and that he ivas determined to do so. I
related to him the fable of the horse and his rider,
and left him to find out its application. Ilis ready
laugh told he had caught the meaning. The Datu
said he could muster 600 fighting men in Ahai and
Tampasuk, and that the Lanuns have but 150. At
Pandasan the Lanuns have but forty men to oppose
to 400 Bajus. Still, the latter have no stomach for

210

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

the fight. I doubt if they give very correct informa-
tion about the numbers at Pandasan, as in 1851
they were very much more numerous ; in fact, several
hundreds were then seen around the houses of the
chiefs. They themselves said that comparatively few
lived on the Tampasuk. Mr. Low ascended the Pan-
dasan and found a village under Panquan Mahomed,
whose grave we saw on the Abai ; and, farther up
this shoal and narrow river, he came to the village
of Asam, the residence of Eangeran Mcrta and other
chiefs. Beyond that, on the tongue of land caused
by the river dividing, was the village of Sultan Si
Tabuk. About twenty-five miles to the north of
Pandasan are the small rivers of Kanio Ivanio and
Layer Layer, also inhabited by Lanuns. They are
very fond of boasting of their courage, and say, if
the Europeans would but meet them sword in hand,
they would fight them man to man.

I may notice that the Lanuns, Bajus, and Sul us do
not shut up their women in the same manner as is
practised by the Malays of the capital and most other
Mahomedans; on the contrary, they often sit with the
men, and enter freely into the subject under discus-
sion. I should like to be able to ascertain whether
this comparative freedom renders them more chaste
than the Malay women ; they could not well be less
so. In Sulu, the wives of the chiefs are entrusted
with the principal management of the accounts, and
carry on much of the trade ; it is said that they have
acquired considerable knowledge from the Manilla
captives, who are often of a superior class.

We stayed a day at the Datu’s house, waiting the
arrival of our baggage, for which we had despatched

A NEW GARDLNIA.

241

buffaloes. The chief, to show his hospitality, deter-
mined to kill a fatted calf to feast us and our fol-
lowers. The endeavours, first to catch a cow, then a
calf, were very amusing. The beasts were particu-
larly active, half-wild things; and the Bajus gave
chase on horseback, galloping boldly over the rough
ground, and through the long grass. We expected
every moment to sec man and horse roll over, but by
dint of hard chasing, at last a half-grown heifer was
driven into the enclosure ; man, horse, and game
being equally blown.

In the afternoon we rode over towards Pandasan,
in search of plants ; from the summit of the first low
hill we had a beautiful view of the lovely plain of
Tampasuk, extending from the sea far into the in-
terior. Groves of cocoa-nuts were interspersed among
the rice grounds, which extended, intermixed with
grassy fields, to the sea-shore, bounded by a long
line of casuarinas. Little hamlets lay scattered in
all directions, some distinctly visible, others nearly
hidden by the rich green foliage of the fruit-trees.
The prospect was bounded on the west by low sand-
stone hills, whose red colour occasionally showed
through the lately-burnt grass, affording a varied
tint in the otherwise verdant prospect ; to the south,
Kina Balu and its attendant ranges were hidden by
clouds.

Hiding on over the undulating ground, we entered
a plain that lies between the districts of Tampasuk
and Pandasan ; it looked parched, and was in no way
to be compared to the one we had left : clouds of
smoke from the burning grass occasionally obscured
the prospect. Here Mr. Low found a beautiful gar-

vol. i. 16

242

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

dinia, growing on slight elevations, on barren, decom-
posing rock, and plentiful wherever the land was un-
dulating. It seemed to flourish in positions exposed
to the hottest rays of the sun. and in situations where
the reflected heat was also very great. It was a bush,
varying from a few inches to two feet in height, and
bore flowers of a pure white. We observed some of
the shrubs not six inches in height, which were
covered with blossoms, yielding a powerful aromatic
odour. In fact, as we rode among them, the whole
air appeared filled with their fragrance. I imagine
the dwarfing of the plants resulted from the inferior
nature of the soil, and the great heat which kept the
moisture from their roots. The high range that
separates these districts from Maludu Bay does not
appear to be very far off ; in fact, it is but two
days’ journey on horseback, which, in the mountains,
would not he much faster than walking, since the
paths are very bad. We galloped home, the natives
evidently amused by our novel style of sitting a horse.
Our ride had been in a north-easterly direction.

On our arrival at the Datu’s house, we found all
our followers assembled, and the baggage in heaps
near our beds. We therefore made preparations for
starting in the morning. On dividing our luggage,
however, it appeared that we should require at least
a dozen Bajus to assist; these had been promised,
but were not forthcoming. Guides to carry nothing
were easily procurable ; but it being the month of
the Bamadhan was an excuse for any amount of
laziness.

When we started next morning, the Datu came
with us a few miles and helped us with some of his

DIFFICULTY OF PROCURING PORTERS.

243

men ; so that, having- packed up, we were enabled to
leave about nine a.m. Our route lay through low-
land for about a mile and a half, crossing the river
once. We stopped at a village situated on and about
a low hill. By the way, we saw a herd of tine cattle,
both white and piebald — an unusual colour in Borneo;
they were in a very flourishing condition, and I en-
deavoured in vain to make arrangements to transport
the whole lot to my grounds near the Consulate. We
stayed at a house occupied by Rajah Ali, a Baju, for
about an hour, trying to get men to take the place of
the Datu’s, who had helped us so far, hut could not
tempt really useful men. We had already four guides,
and might have had as many more as we pleased, but
porters were not to he procured.

The house where we rested was on top of a little
hill, commanding a very extensive prospect : at the
loot the river divided into two, one branch stretch-
ing away towards the E.S.E., whose course we could
trace for eight or ten miles ; it then appears to take
a southerly direction, towards Kina Balu, from which
the natives say it issues : the right-hand branch bore
S. byE., and this is visible for several miles — perhaps
eight ; it then appears to turn more easterly. Near
the banks the ground is generally flat, while towards
the west the hills are numerous.

Finding it impossible to get men enough to carry
all our things, we resolved to push on with those we
had, and then send back for the remainder. Our
impedimenta were numerous, as we had boxes for
specimens, planks with quires of brown paper, besides
the cloths and brass wire required to purchase pro-
visions. Every man also was provided with a musket.

16 — 2

244

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

Our course lay at first over hills with soil of a red-
dish colour, hut a couple of miles brought 11s to the
low land bordering the river. Here we brought up
under a clump of cocoanut palms, to allow our strag-
gling party to collect, and having obtained permission,
our men soon secured a supply of the fruit. I have
no doubt that many travellers in tropical countries
will agree with me, that nothing1 is more refreshing
after a walk in a broiling sun (and it was indeed
broiling to-day) than a draught of cocoanut-milk,
duly tempered with a dash of wine or brandy. For
some time I preferred a glass of sherry or madeira,
now I incline to a tablespoonful of brandy, as forming
the most agreeable and healthy compound. I have
seen to day a great many clumps of cocoanut-trees
very unhealthy. I think they must be injured by the
constant drain to which they are subjected by the
aborigines in extracting toddy from them. These
trees belonged to the Piasau I da ’an, whose villages
were scattered in every direction. Piasau is the word
used by the Borneans of the capital for cocoanut.

While reclining under the shade of these palm-
trees, we had a beautiful view of the country beyond.
The Tampasuk flowed past us, bubbling and break-
ing over its uneven bed ; here shallower, and there-
fore broader, than usual. To the left the country was
open, almost to the base of the great mountain ; to
the right the land was more hilly, and Saduk Saduk
showed itself as a high peak, but dwarfed by its
neighbourhood to Kina Balu, whose rocky precipices
looked now of a purple colour. The summit was
beautiful and clear, and I remained in earnest study
of its features till aroused by an exclamation of my

A VIEW OF KINA CALlK

companion, who, pointing to a remarkable indentation
surmounting an apparently huge fissure in gloomy
shade, said, “ I am sure that is the spot where I left a
bottle in 1851.” With the aid of a telescope we could
distinctly note the position of every crag, and I deter-
mined, if possible, we would visit that fissure, and see
if the bottle still remained. Kina Balu looked more
grand to-day than ever as there were no hills between
us to mar its noble proportions. I made a sketch of the
cra^s on the summit in order to recognize them again,
if we should be sufficiently fortunate to reach them.

Having collected our party, now amounting to about
thirty, we moved on. Our path lay near the river,
which we had to ford eight times, and where the stream
was rapid, the operation proved very fatiguing. Be-
tween the reaches our path ran over granite debris of
the size of coarse sand ; it was so hot that it felt
painful through our shoes, and those who were bare-
foot danced along over it as if they were on burning
stones : — it was trying walking. We fully intended
to have reached Ginambur, but having had so many
detentions, we found that at 4 p.m. it was still several
miles off ; it was useless, therefore, to expect to reach
it, particularly as our men, unaccustomed to walking,
were greatly fatigued. We determined, therefore, to
put up at the farm-houses of the Bungol Ida’an, which
were built conveniently on the banks of the river. It
had been threatening rain, which came on before the
evening closed in. Our general direction all day had
been a little to the east of south.

The Datu of Tampasuk had promised to accom-
pany us himself, but the fast gave him an excellent
excuse ; he, however, sent some men as guides, whom

246

KINA BAKU FIRST EXPEDITION.

lie called liis relations. These men of course came
with us, fancying that by trading for us with the
Ida’an they would be enabled to make a great profit
beyond the regular pay. They did not fail to let us
know their intentions, by telling us that the Ida’an
were asking half a dollar’s worth of goods for a fowl ;
so we declined taking it, telling the Bajus that we were
well aware that they themselves could get a dozen for
the same amount. We expected and intended to let
them fleece us moderately, but this was too barefaced .
We had tin meats, — so managed to make an excel-
lent dinner without the fowl. Such provisions are
certainly of great assistance to the traveller, but the
addition of a fowl, or of any fresh vegetable, takes
away that unpleasant taste always observable in pre-
served meats.

It was here I first saw natives ploughing. Their
plough is of a very simple construction, and serves
rather to scratch the ground than really to turn it
over : it is made entirely of wood, and is drawn by a
buffalo, and its action wras the same as if a pointed
stick had been dragged through the land to the depth
of about four inches. After ploughing, they use a
rough kind of harrow. Simple as this agriculture
is, it is superior to anything that exists south of
Brunei, and it would be interesting to investigate the
causes that have rendered this small part of Borneo,
between the capital and Maludu Bay, so superior in
agriculture to the rest. I think it is obviously a
remnant of Chinese civilization. I must elsewhere
dwell upon the Chinese intercourse, as it is too exten-
sive a subject to be introduced into a journal while
waiting for the cook to get the dinner ready. The

GINAMBUR.

247

farm hut in which we spent the night was about
twelve feet by six, and of exceedingly neat construc-
tion : the bamboo was employed for posts, and split
afforded botli good flooring and walls ; the roofing
leaves were also excellent, and made from the sago
palm. The musquitoes were very numerous, and soon
drove us to bed : the natives assert that these insects
are not to he found near running fresh water — a
statement which experience completely disproves.

The farmhouse we occupied was one of many
scattered over a narrow plain, perhaps four or five
hundred yards in breadth, which skirted the banks of
the river for several miles. It was evident that these
Ida’an kept this land under continued cultivation,
and that each portion was strictly private pro-
perty. We found every house had about four acres
of ground belonging to its owner, which were divided
from one another by slight embankments. The soil
appeared of admirable quality — in fact, a rich black
mould. Heaps of panicles were lying near the houses,
and the amount seemed to show that they must have
had a very good crop last year.

Having induced three Bungol Ida’an to start with
buffaloes to fetch the baggage that was left at llajah
Ali’s house, we moved on a little before ten for
Ginambur, intending to await their arrival there.
Our path lay along the left bank, over low ground
covered with long grass and brushwood, which pre-
vented our obtaining other than glimpses of the
mountain, but at a rapid we had a good view. The
Baju guides gave these Ida’an the character of great
thieves, and requested us to have everything carefully
put away at night, affirming that these inhabitants

243

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

of the plain were of a different character from those
on the hills. It may he so, but we have never found
the aborigines inclined to pilfer ; on the contrary,
they are remarkably honest ; and should these prove
to be of a different disposition, it will be an unique
instance. Here as at Buhgol we could not purchase
fowls except at absurd rates, which we declined. It
is curious that these people show no hospitality —
never offering us a single thing ; hut, instead, trying
to overreach us in every transaction.

The house in which we lodged was the best I have
ever seen amoiw the aborigines : it was boarded with
finely-worked planks ; the doors were strong and ex-
cellently made, with a small opening for the dogs to
go in and out ; everything looked clean — quite an
unusual peculiarity. The flooring of beaten-out
bamboos was very neat, and free from all dirt, which
I have never before noticed in a Dayak house, where
the dogs generally render everything filthy. As this
was the cleanest, so I think my friend the Bisavan
chief’s house on the Limbang was the dirtiest — to
describe its abominations would turn the reader’s
stomach.

These Ida’an are very good specimens of the in-
terior people — clear-skinned, free from disease, with
pleasant, good-humoured countenances. None of the
women are good-looking ; still, they would not be
called ugly. We noticed two peculiarities : that all
the girls and young women wore a piece of black
cloth to conceal their bosoms, which was held in its
place by strips of coloured rattans ; their petticoats
were larger than usual, a practice that might have
been followed with advantage by their elders. The

TATOOiNG. 249

second was that the young girls had the front of the
head shaved, after the manner of the Chinese.

I have not noticed that any of the men are
tattooed, but during our walk to-day we met many
large parties of Ida’an loaded with tobacco, who
were on their way to Tampasuk to trade, among
whom there were some ornamented in this fashion :— ■*
A tattooed band two inches broad, stretched in an
arc from each shoulder, meeting on the stomach,
then turning off to the hips ; others had likewise
a hand extending; from the shoulders to the hands.
They were all small, slight men, and armed with
spears and swords.

As we were the first Europeans who had ever
penetrated so far into the country, we excited great
curiosity, particularly among the female portion of
the tribe : every action was watched and commented
upon, though I am bound to state that my little
China boy, Ahtan, with his long tail, excited equal
surprise ; and when the black Madras cook com-
menced operations, we were totally abandoned, and
a most attentive crowd collected round him, watching
his every motion. As he proceeded to prepare the
curry and the stew, the pressure became too great for
his patience, so that he ran out declaring he could
not cook the dinner. The crowd then drew back
a little, but his actions did not escape the most atten-
tive inspection. We were told that there was another
extensive village of their people on the slope of the
hills, embowered in groves of fruit-trees. It is a
great advantage to live on the banks of a running
stream, as all the population can keep themselves
clean by frequent bathing. Another great proven-

250

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

tivc to discaso is their having sufficient food : they
appear well off, with plenty of buffaloes and cattle —
a contrast, indeed, to their miserable brethren on the
Limbang.

We soon began to find the effect of starting with-
out proper shoes : yesterday my boots had blistered
one heel so much that I determined to walk bare-
footed. Mr. Low’s feet became likewise so painful
that he made up his mind to follow my example.

Our baggage did not arrive till the morning; we
were then detained to procure men to carry it. At
last Sungat, the chief, agreed to follow us with six
of the villagers. We started about eleven. Our
course lay along the banks of the river, cutting- off
the points, and occasionally in the hcd of the old
stream. It having rained on the night previous, the
river was somewhat swollen, which prevented cither
ourselves or our men fording it without Baju assist-
ance ; this rendered our progress slow. Mr. Low
having never before walked without shoes, suffered
much in passing over the pebbles, which were heated
by the bright mid-day sun, and I also, though more
used to it, felt it very much occasionally : in four
hours we did not make more than three miles.

Having passed a very deep ford at 2.45 p.m., we
agreed to stop for the night, and pitched our tents
on the banks of the river on some dry sand, to have
the benefit of the cool water that flowed by. We
might have gone to the Ida’an houses, but preferred
the independence of our own tents, both as more
cool and less crowded ; besides, we were there free
from the suspicion of insects. The fords we passed
during the day were composed of black sand, with

BATONG.

251

small blocks of granite and serpentine mixed with
sandstone.

The name of this place was Batong : from it Kina
Balu bore S.E., and Saduk Saduk 15° east of south;
the latter appears from this view to be a peaked
mountain between 5,000 and 6,000 feet high. Kina
Balu of course absorbed our attention : at night, as
the sun shone brightly on its peaks, it wore a very
smiling appearance. The summit seemed free from
all vegetation, and streams of water were dashing-
over the precipices.

Started next morning at a quarter to eight, and
soon arrived at a place where the river divided, the
Penantaran coming from an E.N.E. direction. Its
bed was full of large blocks of serpentine (though
after passing the mouth of this branch we met with
very few specimens of that kind of rock). There is
a village of the same name as the branch close to the
junction. We followed the right-hand branch — -

direction about south — keeping close to the banks,
crossing- and recrossing continually, seeing occasionally
a few houses. We were now passing through sand-
stone ranges, but the country had no remarkable
features. At 9-40, stopped to breakfast, having-

made about four miles ; our followers gradually closed
up. At eleven we pushed on again. Huge granite
boulders are now common, and under the shelter of
one mighty stone we rested for half an hour, waiting
the arrival of our straggling followers.

One of the greatest advantages of travelling with
an intelligent companion is the interchange of ideas,
and consequently the more accurate noting of obser-
vations. As we sat beneath the shade of the huge

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

252

granite boulder, surrounded on all sides by sandstone
bills, we could not but speculate bow it came there.
Without having recourse to the glacier theory, the
reason appeared to me simple. It is evident that
the level of the country was very much greater
in former times than at present, and that water is
the great agent by which these changes have been
effected.

The streams continually cut their way deeper in the
soil, as we may daily observe : the increasing steep-
ness causes innumerable landslips, and the process
going on for ages, the whole level of the country is
changed, and plains are formed from the detritus at
the mouths of the rivers. Huge granite masses, fall-
ing originally from the lofty summit of Kina Balu,
would gradually slip or roll down the ever-forming
slopes which nature is never weary of creating.

In ascending some of the steeps that rise on either
side of the streams near Kina Balu, we continually
came across boulders of granite, which, in compara-
tively few years, will, through landslips, roll many
hundred feet into the stream below, to commence their
gradual movement from the mountain. I have con-
tinually come across evidences of the Bornean rivers
having flowed at a much higher level than at present,
finding layers of water-worn pebbles, a hundred feet
above the present surface of the stream. In Borneo,
where the rain falls so heavily, the power of water is
immense. After a heavy storm, the torrents rise in
confined spaces often fifty feet within a few hours,
and the rush of the stream would move any but the
largest rocks, and wash away most of the effects of the
landslips.

FISH TRAPS.

253

Standing on a height overlooking a large extent of
country, it is instructive to be able to survey at a
glance the great effect caused by the rivers and all
their tributaries, deep gullies marking every spot
where an accession joins the parent stream. After
heavy rains, the rivers present the colour of cafe cm
lait , from the large amount of matter held in tem-
porary suspension, and on taking out a glassful, I
have been surprised by the amount of sediment which
has immediately fallen to the bottom.

The walk was becoming rather tiring ; drizzling
rain rendering the stones very slippery, and having
continually to make the mountain torrent our path,
it was severe work for our bare feet. The rain
continuing, and the stream rapidly rising, we halted
at some farmhouses in the midst of a long rice-field.
Fording the river is difficult work : the water rushing
down at headlong speed, renders it necessary to exert
one’s utmost strength to avoid being carried away :
the pole in both hands, placed well to seaward, one
foot advanced cautiously before the other, to avoid
the slippery rocks and loose stones. I found that
this fatigued me more than the walking. The water
became much cooler as we approached the mountain,
while the land is rapidly increasing in elevation.
The river was full of Ida’an fish-traps, made by
damming up half the stream, and forcing the water
and fish to pass into a huge bamboo basket. They
appeared to require much labour in the construction,
particularly in the loose stone walls or dams. As
we advanced, we found the whole stream turned into
one of these traps, in which they captured very fine
fish, particularly after heavy rain. I bought one with

254

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

large scales, about eighteen inches long, which was
of a delicious flavour.

To see the young Ida’an ford the stream, raised
both my envy and my admiration ; with the surging
waters reaching to their armpits, with a half-dancing
motion, they crossed as if it were no exertion at all.
So much for practice. During the last three hours
we did not make more than four miles, though out of
the stream the paths were good. The rain continuing
to pour heavily, we determined to stop, as I have
said, at these Ida’an huts, which were situated oppo-
site the landing-place of the village of Tambatuan,
concealed by the brow of a steep hill rising on the
other bank. We sent a party there to buy rice, which
became cheaper as we advanced : those villages also
possessed abundance of cattle and buffaloes. We were
much pleased to find the great confidence shown by
the people ; we often met parties of women and girls,
and on no occasion did they run away screaming at
the unusual sight of a white face. Several of them
came this afternoon to look at us, and remained quite
near for some time, interested in watching our pro-
ceedings. Kina Balu was cloud-hidden this evening.

During the night our rest was much disturbed by
bees, who stung us several times, and Mr. Low, with
that acuteness which never deserts him in all questions
of natural history, pronounced them to be the “ tame”
bees, the same as he had last seen thirteen years ago
among the Senah Dayaks in Sarawak. About mid-
night we were visited by a big fellow, who, our guides
assured us, wanted to pilfer ; but we found next
morning that he had come to complain of his hives
having been plundered. On inquiry, we discovered

OUR MOTIVES.

255

the man who had done the deed. lie was fined three
times the value of the damage, and the amount
handed over to the owner.

A great many questions were asked as to what
could be our object in visiting Kina Balu : to tell
them that it was for curiosity would have been use-
less : to say that we were seeking new kinds of ferns,
pitcher-plants, or flowers, would not have been much
more satisfactory to them. Some thought we were
searching for copper or for gold, while others were
equally convinced we were looking for precious stones.
One man sagaciously observed that we were seeking
the Lagundi tree, whose fruit, if eaten, would restore
our youth and enable us to live for countless years,
and that tree was to be found on the very summit
of Kina Balu. To-day an Ida’an came, I suppose
to try us, and said he knew of copper not more
than half a day’s journey from our path, and offered
to take us to it ; seeing we were not to be tempted,
another told us of a tree of copper that was to be
found a few miles off ; but even that did not alter
our determination to make the best of our way to
the mountain. We left the questioners sadly puzzled
as to what possibly could be our object in ascending
Kina Balu.

All the Bajus and Borneans are convinced that
there is a lake on the very summit of this mountain,
and ask, if it be not so, how is it that continual
streams of water flow down its sides. They forget
that very few nights pass without there being rain
among the lofty crags, even when it is dry on the
plains. Sometimes the sun, shining on particular
portions of the granite, gives it an appearance of

256

KINA I5ALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

great brilliancy ; and those who formerly ascended
the summit with Mr. Low, reported that whenever
they approached the spot where these diamonds
showed themselves at a distance, they invariably dis-
appeared : as these men have a perfect faith in
every wild imagination of the Arabian Nights.
they easily convinced themselves and their auditors
that the jinn would not permit them to take them.
The old story of the great diamond, guarded on
the summit of Kina Lain by a ferocious dragon,
arose probably from some such cause. The Malays
are great storytellers, and these wonders interest
them. I may notice that most of the men that were
with us accompanied us to the mountain of Molu the
preceding February, and then one of the Borneans
commenced a story which lasted the seventeen days
we were away, and he occasionally went on with it
during our present journey. It was the history of an
unfortunate princess, who for “ seven days and seven
nights neither eat nor drank, but only wept.”

Opposite our resting-place we observed some re-
markably elegant tree ferns, whose stems rose occa-
sionally to the height of ten feet, and with their long
leaves bending gracefully on every side, they were
an ornament to the river’s bank. We noticed as yet
but little old forest. The only fine trees we saw
were near the villages, and these were preserved for
their fruits. Where the land is not cultivated, it is
either covered with brushwood, or trees of a young
growth.

Drizzling rain prevented our departure till near
eight, when we continued our course along the rice-
fields : we had been told we should find the path

SWIMMING THE RIVEII.

257

very bad, but were agreeably surprised by it proving
dry and principally among plantations of kiladi.
We crossed the river only five times, and passed
over a sandstone range about five hundred feet
above the plain : it was nearly three miles from
our resting-place. The stream bad now become a
perfect mountain torrent, breaking continually over
rocks.

Occasionally the fords were difficult, as the con-
tinued rains rendered the river very full. At one
place where an island divides the Tampasuk, it was
so deep that it was found necessary to swim over,
and only a very expert man could have done it, as
the water rushed down with great force. The Bajus,
however, were quite prepared ; they did not attempt
to cross the stream in a direct course, but allowed
themselves to be carried away a little, and reached
the other side about fifty yards farther down. They
did it very cleverly, carrying all our luggage over,
little by little, swimming with one hand and bolding
the baskets in the air with the other. As we could
not swim, two men placed themselves, one on either
side of us, told us to throw ourselves fiat on the water
and remain passive ; in a few minutes we were com-
fortably landed on the opposite bank, drenched to the
skin, it is true, but we had scarcely had any dry
clothes on us during the whole journey ; however, no
sooner did we arrive at our resting-places, than we
stripped, bathed, rubbed ourselves into a glow, and
put on dry clothes. Nothing is so essential as this
precaution, and I have twice had severe attacks of
lever from neo;lectin<>' it. The hills as we advanced
began closing in on the river’s banks, leaving

VOL, I.

258

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

occasionally but a narrow strip of flat ground near
the stream.

At 11.20 a.m. we reached Ivoung, a large, scat-
tered village on a grassy plain : it is a very pretty
spot, the greensward extending to the river’s hanks,
where the cattle and buffaloes graze : about a hundred
feet up the side of a neighbouring hill is another por-
tion of the village. The roaring torrent foams around,
affording delicious spots for bathing, the water being
delightfully cool. In the bed of the stream there
were masses of angular granite, mixed with the water-
worn boulders. It was the first time we had ever seen
it of that sharp form, but similar blocks were after-
wards noticed on the summit. The wild raspberry is
very plentiful here. One cannot help having one’s
attention continually drawn to the air of comfort, or,
rather, to the appearance of native wealth observed
among the Ida’an : food in abundance, with cattle,
pigs, fowls, rice, and vegetables ; and no one near
them to plunder or exact. Accustomed as I had
been to the aborigines around the capital, the contrast
struck me forcibly.

Next day we hoped to reach Kiau, the village from
which Mr. Low started for the mountain in the spring
of 1851. There was an apparent hitch about getting
from that place ; but we thought perhaps the reports
arose from tribal jealousy. At four p.m., Ivoung : baro-
meter, 28’678°; thermometer, 77*5°; unattached, 78*3°.
So that this village must be about 1,500 feet above the
level of the sea : a very rapid rise for the stream in so
short a distance. The sandstone hill we crossed to-day
had the same characteristics as those I had observed
up the Sakarang, Batang Lupar, and near the capital

LANUN CLOTH.

259

— all being very steep, with narrow ridges, and but-
tresses occasionally springing from their sides : on the
one we crossed to-day was a quantity of red shale.

Near our last night’s resting-place, I noticed, for the
first time on this river, some sago palms ; they have
again shown themselves to-day, and there are a few
round the village, but neither these trees nor cocoa-
nut nor areca palms arc plentiful. At every village I
made inquiries about cotton, and, like the men with
tails, it was always grown a little farther off ; only we
know cotton must be grown somewhere in this neigh-
bourhood, as at the very moment I was writing my
journal I saw an old woman engaged spinning yarn
from native material. The Lanuns also furnish a
cloth which is highly prized among every class of in-
habitants in Borneo ; it is a sort of checked black
cloth, with narrow lines of white running through it,
and glazed on one size. This was formerly made
entirely of native yarn ; but I am afraid this industry
will soon decline, as connoisseurs are already begin-
ning to discover that the Lanun women, finding1
English yarn so cheap, are using it in preference,
though it renders the article much less durable. It
is also worthy of notice that this cloth is dyed from
indigo grown on the spot. These Ida’an purchase
their supplies of cotton of the Inserban and Tuhan
Ida’an who live on the road to the lake, while the
Bajus obtain theirs from the Lobas near Maludu
Bay. I saw one plant growing near the hut where
we rested last night ; it was about ten feet high, and
covered with flowers.

They told us at Koung that the Ida’an were at
war ; but though they may have quarrels, they must

17—2

260

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

bo trifling, as we met every day women and children
by themselves at considerable distances from their
houses. Besides, parties of a dozen men and boys
of the supposed enemies passed us on their way to
Tampasuk to trade, and in none of their villages
did we notice heads.

All these Ida’an appear to pay particular attention
to the cultivation of the Kiladi (arum), planting it in
their fields immediatelv after gathering in the rice
crop, and keeping it well weeded : they grow it every-
where, and it must afford them abundance of food.
It is in shape something like a beetroot, and has the
flavour of a yam. Roasted in the ashes, and brought
smoking hot to table, torn open, and adding a little
butter, pepper, and salt, it is very palatable, particu-
larly among those hills.

Saduk bore N.E. and Kina Balu due E. from the
southern portion of the village.

Started about seven in a S.E. by E. direction,
ascending1 a hill on which the village of Labang
Labang is situated: here occurred a scene. Mr. Low
and I, with a few men, were walking ahead of the party .
as we passed the first house, an old woman came to
the door, and uttered some sentences which struck us
as sounding like a curse : however, we took no notice ;
but as we approached the end of the village, we were
hailed by an ugly-looking fellow, with an awful squint,
who told us to stop, as we should not pass through
bis village : this was evidently a prepared scene, the
whole of the population turning out, armed : so we
did stop to discuss the point. We asked what he
meant : lie answered that they had never had good
crops since Mr. Low ascended the mountain in 1851,

resistance.

261

and gave many other sapient reasons why we should not
ascend it now ; but he wound up by saying that if we
would pay a slave as black mail, they would give us
permission to pass and do as we pleased : this showed
us that nothing hut extortion was intended ; yet, to
avoid any disagreeable discussion, we offered to make
him a present of forty yards of grey shirting; but
this proposition was not listened to, and he and his
people became very insolent in their manner.

We sent hack one of the men to hurry up the
stragglers, and in the meantime continued the dis-
cussion. They then said they would take us up
the mountain if we would start from their village ;
but being unwilling to risk a disappointment, we
declined. They remembered how the Kiaus had
turned back Mr. Lobb, because he would not submit
to their extortions, and thought they might do the
same with us. As the Ida’an were shaking their spears
and giving other hostile signs, we thought it time
to brine' this affair to a climax ; so I ordered the men
to load their muskets, and Mr. Low, stepping up to
the chief with his five-barrelled pistol, told the
interpreter to explain that we were peaceable tra-
vellers, most unwilling to enter into any contest ;
that we had obtained the permission of the Govern-
ment of the country, and that we were determined to
proceed ; that if they carried out their threats of
violence, he would shoot five with his revolver, and
that I was prepared to do the same with mine ; that
they might, by superior numbers, overcome us at last,
but in the meantime we would make a desperate fight
of it.

This closed the scene : as lono- as we had onlv

o *

262

KINA BAKU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

half a dozen with us, they were bullies ; but as our
forces began to arrive, and at last amounted to fifty
men, with twenty musket-barrels shining among them,
they became as gentle as lambs, and said they would
take two pieces of grey shirting ; but we refused to
give way, keeping to our original offer, and then only
if the chief would follow us on our return, and receive
it at Tampasuk. We ordered the men to advance,
and we would close up the rear : no opposition was
offered ; on the contrary, the chief accompanied us
on our road, and we had no more trouble with the
Lahang Labang people. We were detained forty
minutes by this affair. Our guides explained the
matter to us : when Mr. Low was here last time, many
reports were spread of the riches which the Kiaus
had obtained from the white man, and they were
jealous that the other branch of their tribe should
obtain the wealth that was passing from them through
their village. The Ivoung people tried to persuade
us last night to start from their place, and as they
were very civil we should have liked to oblige them,
but they were uncertain whether they could take us
to the summit. Mr. Lohb, when he reached Iviau,
had but a small party, and was unarmed, so they
would not allow him to pass, except on terms that
were totally inadmissible.

Immediately after passing the village, we descended
a steep and slippery path to one of the torrents into
which the Tampasuk now divided. After crossing it,
we were at the base of the spur on which the village
of Kiau is situated. We passed several purling
streams which descended, in a winding course, the
face of the hill. From one spot in our walk, we had

KIAU.

263

a beautiful view of two valleys, cultivated on both
banks, with the foaming streams dashing among the
rocks below. Over the landscape were scattered huts,
which had the peculiarity of being flat-roofed : the
Kiaus using- the bamboo as the Chinese use their
tiles, split in two ; the canes are arranged side by
side across the whole roof, with their concave sides
upwards to catch the rain ; then a row placed convex
to cover the edges of the others, and prevent the
water dropping through. They are quite water-
tight, and afforded an excellent hint for travellers
where bamboos abound.

The latter portion of the road was difficult climbing,
the clay being slippery from last night’s rain ; but as
we approached our resting-place, the walking became
easier. Kiau is a large village on the southern side
of the spur. The houses scattered on its face are
prettily concealed from each other by clumps of
cocoanuts and bamboos. It covers a great extent
of ground, but is badly placed, being more than
800 feet above the torrent — that is, the portion of the
village at which we stayed. The eastern end was
nearer the stream. The inhabitants supplied them-
selves with drinking-water from small rills which
were led in bamboos to most of their doors. We
brought up about eleven, our course being generally
E.S.E. Thermometer 73° at twelve in the house.
We felt it chilly, and took to warm clothing.

The Kiaus are much dirtier than any tribes I
have seen in the neighbourhood : the children and
women are unwashed, and most of them are troubled
with colds, rendering them in every sense unpleasant
neighbours. In fact, to use the words of an expe-

264

KINA BAKU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

rienced traveller, “ they cannot afford to be clean,”
their climate is chilly, and they have no suitable
clothing. We observed that the features of many
of these people were very like Chinese — perhaps a
trace of that ancient kingdom of Celestials that tra-
dition fixes to this neighbourhood. They all showed
the greatest and most childlike curiosity at everything
either we or our servants did.

In the afternoon, Lemaing, Mr. Low’s old guide,
came in. Mr. Low recognized his voice immediately,
though seven years had passed since he had heard it.
Sir James Brooke has a most extraordinary faculty
of remembering voices, as well as names, even of
natives whom he has only seen once. It is very
useful out here, and I have often found the awkward-
ness which arises from my quickly forgetting both
voices and names.

Shortly after Lemaing’s arrival, a dispute arose
between him and Lemoung, the chief of the house
in which we were resting : both voices grew excited ;
at last, they jumped up, and each spat upon the floor
in a paroxysm of mutual defiance : here we inter-
posed to preserve the peace, and calm being restored,
it was found that seven years ago they had disputed
about the division of Mr. Low’s goods, and the quarrel
had continued ever since — the whole amount being
five dollars. Lemounff said that his house had been

burnt down in consequence of the white man ascend-
ing Kina Balu, and that no good crops of rice had
grown since ; hut it was all envy ; he thought in the
distribution he had not secured a fair share. We
asked if he had ascended the mountain ; he said no,
but his son had brought some rice, for which, on

HARMLESS DEMONSTRATION.

265

inquiry, we found lie had been paid. Drizzling rain
the whole afternoon.

The thermometer registered 66° last night, and we
enjoyed our sleep under blankets. At mid-day, we
took out the barometer from its case, and found,
to our inexpressible vexation, that it was utterly
smashed. This will destroy half the pleasure of the
ascent ; in fact, our spirits are somewhat depressed
by the accident, and by Mr. Low’s feet getting
worse. At twelve, thermometer “73. (The lament-
able accident so disgusted me that I find no further
entry in that day’s journal, but a pencilled note
remarks that the Ida’an preserve their rice in old
bamboos two fathoms long, which are placed on one
side of the doorway. It is said that these bamboos
are preserved for generations, and, in fact, they looked
exceedingly ancient.)

Last night, thermometer 69°- At early dawn, we
heard the war-drums beating in several houses, and
shouts and yells from the boys. They said it was a
fete day, but we rightly guessed it had something to
do with our expedition. For some time, our guide did
not make his appearance, and a few young fellows on
the hill over the village threw stones as we appeared
at the door — a very harmless demonstration, as they
were several hundred vards off — but discharging and
cleaning a revolver lessened the amount of hostile
shouting. About nine, the guide made his appear-
ance ; the women seemed to enjoy the scene, and
followed us to witness the skirmish ; but the enemy, if
there were an enemy, did not show, and the promised
ambush came to nothing — it was but a trick of
Lemoung to trv and disgust Lemaing, and frighten

O «' O O' o

266

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

us by the beating of drums and shouting. At the
place where we were assured an attack would be
made, we found but a few harmless women carrying
tobacco.

Our path lay along the side of the hill in which
the village stands, we followed it about four miles
in an easterly direction, and then descended to a
torrent, one of the feeders of the Tampasuk, where
we determined to spend the night, as Mr. Low’s feet
were becoming very swollen and painful, and it was
as well to collect the party. We had passed through
considerable fields of sweet potatoes, kiladi, and
tobacco, where the path was crossed occasionally by
cool rills from the mountains. We enjoyed the cold
water very much, and had a delightful bath. The
torrent comes tumbling down, and forms many fine
cascades. Mr. Low botanized a little, notwith-
standing his feet were suppurating. The hut in
which we spent the night was very pretty-looking,
flat-roofed, built entirely of bamboos.

To-day, we had a specimen of the thieving of our
Ida’an followers. One man was caught burying a
tin of sardines ; another stole a Bologna sausage, for
which, when hungry, I remembered him, and another
a fowl.

Next morning, Mr. Low found it impossible to
walk, and I was therefore obliged to start without
him. We showed our perfect confidence in the
villagers of Iviau by dividing our party, leaving
only four men with Mr. Low to take care of the
arms ; we carried with us up the mountain nothing
but our swords and one revolver. They must have
thought us a most extraordinary people ; but we

CASCADES.

267

knew that their demonstrations of hostility were
really harmless, and more aimed against each other
than against ns. Probably, had we appeared afraid,
it might have been a different matter.

Our course was at first nearly east up the sub-spur
of a great buttress. The walking was severe, from
the constant and abrupt ascents and descents, and
the narrowness of the path when it ran along the
sides of the hill, where it was but the breadth of the
foot. At one place we had a view of a magnificent
cascade. The stream that runs by the cave, which is
to be one of our resting-places, falls over the rocks
forming1 minor cascades ; then coming to the edge of
the precipice, throws itself over, and in its descent of
above fifteen hundred feet appears to diffuse itself
in foam, ere it is lost in the depths of the dark-
wooded ravines below.

I soon found I had made a great mistake in permit-
ting these active mountaineers to lead the way at their
own pace, as before twelve o’clock I was left alone with
them, all my men being far behind, as they were
totally unaccustomed to the work. Arriving at a little
foaming rivulet, I sat down and waited for the rest of
the party, and when they came up, they appeared so
exhausted that I had compassion on them, and agreed
to spend the night here. The Ida’an were very dis-
satisfied, and declared they would not accompany us,
if we intended to make such short journeys ; but we
assured them that we would go on alone if they left us,
and not pay them the stipulated price for leading us
to the summit. I soon set the men to work to build a
hut of long poles, over which we could stretch our
oiled cloths, and to make a raised floor to secure us

KINA BALU FIRST EXPEDITION.

268'

from being wet through by tbe damp moss and heavy
rain that would surely fall during the night. At
three p.m. the thermometer fell to 65°, which to the
children of the plain rendered the air unpleasantly
cold : but we worked hard to collect bouodis and

1 D

leaves to make our beds soft ; and wood was eagerly
sought for to make fires in the holes beneath our
raised floor. This filled the place with smoke, but
gave some warmth to the men.

The Ida’an again tried to get back, but I would
not receive their excuse that they would be up early
in the morning : they then set hard at work going
through incantations to drive away sickness. The
guide Lemaing carried an enormous bundle of charms,
and on him fell the duty of praying or repeating
some forms : he was at it two hours by my watch.
To discover what lie said, or the real object to whom
he addressed himself, was almost impossible through
the medium of our bad interpreters. I could hear
him repeating my name, and they said he was solicit-
ing the spirits of the mountain to favour us.

The thermometer registered 5 7° last night in tent.
Started at seven ; I observed a fine yellow sweet-
scented rhododendron on a decayed tree, and re-
quested my men on their return to take it to
Mr. Low ; continuing the ascent, after an hour’s
tough walking, reached the top of the ridge. There
it was better for a short time ; but the forest, heavily
hung with moss, is exposed to the full force of the
south-west monsoon, and the trees arc bent across
the path, leaving occasionally only sufficient space to
crawl through. We soon came upon the magnificent
pitcher-plant, the Nepenthes Low'd , that Mr. Low

BEAUTIFUL RHODODENDRONS.

269

was anxious to get. We could find no young plants,
but took cuttings, which the natives said would grow.

We stopped to breakfast at a little swampy spot,
where the trees are becoming very stunted, though in
positions protected from the winds they grow to a
great height. Continuing our course, we came upon
a jungle that appeared to be composed almost entirely'
of rhododendrons, some with beautiful pink, crimson,
and yellow flowers. I sat near one for about half
an hour apparently in intense admiration, but, in
fact, very tired, and breathless, and anxious about my
followers, only one of whom had kept up with me.

Finding it useless to wait longer, as the mist was
beginning to roll down from the summit, and the
white plain of clouds helow appeared rising, I pushed
on to the cave, which we intended to occupy. It was
a huge granite boulder, resting on the hill side, that
sheltered us but imperfectly from the cold wind. The
Ida’an, during the day, amused themselves in trying
to secure some small twittering birds, which looked
like canaries, with a green tint on the edges of their
wings, but were unsuccessful. They shot innume-
ruble pellets from their blowpipes, but did not secure
one. In fact, they did not appear to use this instru-
ment with any skill.

At four o’clock the temperature of the air was 52°,
and of the water 48°.

Some of my men did not reach us till after dark,
and it was with great difficulty that I could induce
the Malays to exert themselves to erect the oiled
cloths, to close the mouth of the cave, and procure
sufficient firewood. They appeared paralyzed by the
cold, and were unwilling to move.

270

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

During the night, the thermometer at the entrance
of the cave fell to 36° 5' ; and on my going out to
have a look at the night-scene, all the hushes and
trees appeared fringed with hoar frost.

After breakfasting at the cave, we started for the
summit. Our course lay at first through a thick low
jungle, full of rhododendrons ; it then changed into
a stunted brushwood, that almost hid the rarely-used
path ; gradually the shrubs gave way to rocks, and
then we commenced our ascent over the naked granite.
A glance upwards from the spot where we first left
the jungle, reveals a striking scene— a face of granite
sweeping steeply up for above 3,000 feet to a rugged
edge of pointed rocks ; while on the farthest left
the southern peak looked from this view a rounded
mass. Here and there small runnels of water passed
over the granite surface, and patches of brushwood
occupied the sheltered nooks. The rocks were often
at an angle of nearly forty degrees, so that I was
forced to ascend them, at first, with woollen socks,
and when they were worn through, with bare feet.
It was a sad alternative, as the rough stone wore
away the skin and left a bleeding and tender surface.

After hard work, we reached the spot where
Mr. Low had left a bottle, and found it intact — the
writing in it was not read, as I returned it unopened
to its resting-place.

Low’s Gully is one of the most singular spots in
the summit. We ascend an abrupt ravine, with
towering perpendicular rocks on either side, till a
rough natural wall bars the way. Climbing on this,
you look over a deep chasm, surrounded on three sides
by precipices, so deep that the eye could not reach

ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT.

271

the bottom ; but the twitter of innumerable swallows
could be distinctly heard, as they flew in flocks below.
There was no descending here : it was a sheer preci-
pice of several thousand feet, and this was the deep
fissure pointed out to me by Mr. Low from the cocoa-
nut grove on the banks of the Tampasuk when we
were reclining there, and proved that he had remem-
bered the very spot where lie had left the bottle.

I was now anxious to reach one of those peaks
which arc visible from the sea; so we descended Low’s
Gully, through a thicket of rhododendrons, bearing
a beautiful blood-coloured flower, and made our way
to the westward. It was rough walking at first,
while we continued to skirt the rocky ridge that rose
to our right ; but gradually leaving this, we advanced
up an incline composed entirely of immense slabs
of granite, and reaching the top, found a noble
terrace, half a mile in length, whose sides sloped
at an angle of thirty degrees on either side. The
ends were the Southern Peak and a huge cyclopean
wall.

I followed the guides to the former, and after a
slippery ascent, reached the summit. I have men-
tioned that this peak has a rounded aspect when
viewed from the eastward ; but from the northward
it appears to rise sharply to a point ; and when
with great circumspection I crawled up, I found
myself on a granite point, not three feet in width,
with but a water-worn way a few inches broad to
rest on, and prevent my slipping over the sloping-
edges.

During the climbing;' to-day, I suffered slightlv
from shortness of breath, and felt some disinclination

272

KINA BAKU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

to bodily exertion ; but as soon as I sat down on this
lofty point, it left me, and a feeling came on as if the
air rendered me buoyant and made me long to float
away.

Calmly seated here, I first turned my attention to
the other peaks, which stretched in a curved line from
east to west, and was rather mortified to find that the
most westerly and another to the cast appeared higher
than where I sat, but certainly not more than a hun-
dred feet. The guides called this the mother of the
mountain, but her children may have outgrown her.
Turning to the south-west, I could but obtain glimpses
of the country, as many thousand feet below masses of
clouds passed continually over the scene, giving us but
a partial view of sea, and rivers, and hills. One thing
immediately drew my attention, and that was a very
lofty peak towering above the clouds, bearing S. ^ E.
It appeared to be an immense distance off, and I
thought it might be the great mountain of Lawi, of
which I went in search some months later ; but it
must be one much farther to the eastward, and may
be the summit of Tilong, which, as I have before
mentioned, some declare to be much more lofty than
Balu itself.

Immediately below me, the granite for a thousand
feet sloped sharply down to the edge of that lofty pre-
cipice that faces the valley of Pinokok to the south-
west. I felt a little nervous while we were passing
along this to reach the southern peak, as on Mr. Low’s
former expedition a Malay had slipped at a less for-
midable spot, and been hurried down the steep incline
at a pace that prevented any hope of his arresting his
own progress, when leaning on his side his kris for-

DESCENT.

273

tunately entered a slight cleft, and arrested him on
the verge of a precipice.

A mono' the detached rocks and in the crevices grew
a kind of moss, on which the Ida’an guides declared
the spirits of their ancestors fed. A grass also was
pointed out that served for the support of the ghostly
buffaloes which always followed their masters to the
other world. As a proof, the print of a foot was
shown me as that of a young buffalo ; it was not very
distinct, hut appeared more like the impression left by
a goat or deer.

Our guides became very nervous as the clouds rose
and now occasionally topped the precipice, and broke,
and swept up the slopes, enveloping us. They urged
me to return ; I saw it was necessary, and complied,
as the wind was rising, and the path we were to follow
was hidden in mist.

We found the air pleasantly warm and very invigo-
rating; the thermometer marked 62° in the shade ;
and as we perceived little rills of water oozing from
among the granite rocks, the summit would prove a
much better encamping ground than our cold cave,
where the sun never penetrates. The Ida’an, how-
ever, feared to spend one night in this abode of
spirits, and declined carrying my luggage.

Our return was rather difficult, as the misty rain
rendered the rocks slippery, but we all reached the
cave in safety. Here I received a note from Mr. Low,
but he was still unable to walk. The bathing water
was 49°.

During the night the temperature fell, and the
registering thermometer marked 41°. My feet were
so injured by yesterday’s walking that I was unable to

VOL. I.

274

KINA BALU FIRST EXPEDITION.

rcascencl the mountain to collect plants and flowers, so
sent my head man Musa with a large party. I, how-
ever, strolled about a little to look for seeds and a
sunny spot, as the ravine in which our temporary
home was, chilled me through. I was continually
enveloped in mist, and heard afterwards to my regret
that the summit was clear, and that all the surround-
ing country lay exposed to view. The low, tangled
jungle was too thick to admit of our seeing much.
I climbed the strongest and highest trees there, hut
could only get glimpses of distant hills.

Thermometer during the night, 43°, while in the
cave yesterday it marked 56° at two o’clock.

Started early to commence our descent, collecting
a few plants on our way ; the first part of the
walking is tolerably good — in fact, as far as the
spot where we rested for breakfast on our ascent.
It is in appearance a series of mighty steps. Passed
on the wayside innumerable specimens of that curious
pitcher-plant the Nepenthes villosa, with serrated
lips.

After leaving the great steps, our course was along
the edge of a ridge, where the path is extremely nar-
row ; in fact, in two or three places not above eighteen
inches wide — a foot of it serving as parapet, six inches
of sloping rock forming the path. From one of these
craggy spots a noble landscape is spread before us,
eighty miles of coast-line, with all the intervening
country being visible at once. With one or two ex-
ceptions, plains skirt the sea-shore, then an undulating
country, gradually rising to ranges varying from two
to three thousand feet, with glimpses of silvery streams
flowing among them. The waters of the Mengkabong

DIFFICULT PATH.

275

and Sulaman, swelling to the proportions of lakes, add
a diversity to the scene.

It is fortunate that the ridge is not often so narrow
as at these spots ; for on one side there is a sheer
descent of fifteen hundred feet, and on the other is
very perpendicular ground, hut wooded. Two decay-
ing rocks that obstruct the path are also dangerous to
pass, as we had to round them, with uncertain foot-
ing, and nothing hut a bare, crumbling surface to
grasp. With the exception of these, the path is not
difficult or tiring, until we leave the ridge and descend
to the right towards the valleys : then it is steep,
slippery, and very fatiguing, and this continues for
several miles, until we have lowered the level nearly
four thousand feet. The path, in fact, is as vile as
path can be.

By the time I reached the hut where I had left
Mr. Low, I felt completely exhausted ; hut a little
rest, a glass of brandy-and-watcr, and a bathe in the
dashing torrent that foamed among the rocks at our
feet, thoroughly restored me. The water here felt
pleasant after the hitter cold of that near the cave.
My companion had employed his time collecting
plants, though his feet were not at all better.

Next morning we manufactured a kind of litter, on
which Mr. Low was to he carried, and then started
along a path that skirted the banks of the Kalupis,
that flows beneath the village, and is, in fact, the
source of the Tampasuk. We passed through several
fields of tobacco, as well as of yams and kiladis ; the
first is carefully cultivated, and not a weed was to be
observed among the plants. Leaving the water, we
pushed up the steep hank to the lower houses of the

18—2

276

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

village, and made our way on to Lemoung’s, to
reach it just as a drenching shower came on.

Here we found one of ourBaju guides, who had been
sent back to construct rafts for the return voyage. I
was not sorry to find that some had been prepared,
as it appeared otherwise necessary that Mr. Low
should he carried the whole way.

The villagers said they were at war even during
the time we were at their houses with a neighbouring
tribe, which induces them to hear arms wherever they
may go ; hut the whole affair must he very trifling, as
they sleep at their farms, and we saw, totally unpro-
tected, troops of girls and women at work in the
fields.

We thought it better to make some complaints of
the dishonesty shown, before we ascended the moun-
tain ; they were profuse in apologies, but they had
evidently enjoyed the sausage.

We spent the afternoon and evening in settling
all claims against us, and having completed that
work, ordered the rest of our baggage to be packed up
ready for an early start next morning. Among the
undistributed goods was about twenty pounds weight
of thick brass wire. While I was away bathing,
Lemaing coolly walked off with it ; hut on my return
Mr. Low informed me of what had occurred. Knowing
that if w*e permitted this to pass unnoticed, it would
he a signal for a general plunder, we determined to
recover the wire. As Mr. Low could not move, I
went by myself in search of Lemaing, and soon heard
his voice speaking loudly in the centre of a dense
crowd of the villagers. I forced my way through,
and found him seated, with the brass wire in his

ID A* AN D IS lUUST.

hand, evidently pointing out its beauty to an admiring
audience. I am afraid I very much disconcerted him,
as with one hand I tore the prize from his grasp, and
with the other put a revolver to his head, and told
him to beware of meddling with our baggage. I
never saw a look of greater astonishment; he tried to
speak, but the words would not come, and the crowd
opening, I bore back the trophy to our end of the
village house.

The Bajus told us we should find the Ida’an of the
plains dishonest, while those of the hills had the
contrary reputation. We lost nothing in the plains ;
here we had to guard carefully against pilferers.

We noticed that as we gradually receded from the
sea, the clothing of the inhabitants became less — on
the plains all the Ida’an wore trousers and jackets; at
Koung and Iviau very few, and we were assured that
those in the interior wore nothing but bark waist-
cloths.

An incident occurred the evening before our depar-
ture, which showed how the Ida’an distrust each other.
Among the goods we paid to our guides were twenty
fathoms of thick brass wire ; the coils were put down
before them ; they talked over it for two hours, and
could not settle cither the division, or who should
take care of it until morning; at length one by one
all retired and left the wire before us, the last man
pushing it towards Musa, asking him to take charge
of it. Not relishing this trust, he carried it to
Li Moung’s house, and placing it in the midst of the
crowd, left it, and they then quarrelled over it till
morning.

We thought last night every claim hal been settled,

278

KINA BALU — FIRST EXPEDITION.

but this morning they commenced again, anxious to
prevent any goods leaving their village. We our-
selves did not care to take hack to our pinnace any-
thing that was not necessary to enable us to pay our
way. We made liberal offers to them if they would
carry Mr. Low to the next village, hut they positively
refused to assist us farther. We therefore collected
our Malays outside the place, and prepared to start ;
and were on the point of doing so, when shouts in the
village house attracted our attention, and a man ran
out to say that they were plundering the baggage left
in charge of the Bungol Ida’an. As this consisted
of our clothes and cooking utensils, it was not to he
borne, and I ran back into the house, where I found
a couple of hundred men surrounding our Ida’an fol-
lowers and undoing the packages ; they were startled
by the sight of my rifle, and when they heard the rush
caused by the advance of Mr. Low and our Malays,
they fled to the end of the house, and soon disappeared
through the opposite door. The panic seemed to
cause the greatest amusement to the girls of this
house, who talked and laughed, and patted us on the
shoulders, and appeared to delight in the rapid flight
of their countrymen. None of their own relatives,
however, had joined in the affair.

Mr. Low’s rapid advance to my support surprised
me ; but I found that with the assistance of a servant
he had hopped the whole of the way, revolver in
hand. Our men behaved with remarkable resolution,
and would have driven off the whole village had it
been necessary. One Malay got so excited, that lie
commenced a war dance, and had we not instantly
interfered, would have worked himself up to run a

RETURN TO TIIE DATU S HOUSE.

279

muck among the Icla’an. Though we wished to
frighten them into honesty towards us, we were most
anxious that not the slightest wound should he given,
and I may here remark, that in none of our journeys
have we ever found it necessary to use our weapons
against the inhabitants. We discovered that show-
ing ourselves prepared to fight, if necessary, prevented
its being ever necessary to fight.

We pushed on to Koung by a path that led below
Labang Labang, Mr. Low suffering severely from the
necessity of having to walk six miles over stony
country with suppurating feet.

At Koung wTe vainly endeavoured to obtain a
buffalo, on which Mr. Lowr might ride ; but the
villagers showed no inclination to assist. So next
morning wTe pushed on through heavy rain to the
village of Tambatuan, where the Tampasuk becomes
a little more fit for rafts. I was glad to see Mr. Low
safely there, and then, as the rafts would not hold us
all, I walked on with the men. The heavy rain had
caused the river to swell, and the walking and the
fording were doubly difficult, but we continued our
course, and in two days reached the village of
Ginambur, and joining Mr. Low on the raft, pursued
our journey to the Datu’s house.

Next day to the Abai ; but contrary winds pre-
vented our reaching Labuan for five days.

We were not quite satisfied with the results of this
expedition, and determined to start again, but
choosing another route, the same followed by Mr.
Low in 1851.

280

CHAPTER IX.

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

Cholera in Brunei — Start from Labuan — Coal Seams — View of
Tanjong Kubong — Method of working the Coal — Bed Land
— Method of cultivating Pepper — Wild Cattle — The Pinnace
— Ivimanis Bay — Inland Passage — Ivimanis River — Cassia —
Trade in it stopped — Smooth River — My first View of Kina
Balu — Story of the Death of Pangeran Usup — Anchor — Papar
— A Squall — Reach Gaya Bay — Noble Harbour— Pangeran
Madoud — My first Visits to him — Method of making Salt — •
Village of Menggatal — Ida’au — His Fear of them — Roman
Catholic Mission — Cholera — Mengkabong — [Manilla Captives —
The Salt-water Lake — Head-quarters of the Bajus — Their
Enterprise — Find Stranded Vessels — Tripod Masts — Balignini
Pirates — Their Haunts — Spanish Attack — Great Slaughter —
Savage-looking Men — Great Tree — Unreasoning Retaliation —
Energy of M. Cuarteron — Lawlessness of the Bajus — Pan-
geran Duroup, the Governor — Anecdote of a drifting Canoe —
Inhospitable Custom — Origin of the Bajus — Welcome by Pan-
geran Sirail — Love of Whiskey overcomes Prejudice — Night
Weeping — A Market — The Datu of Tamparuli — The Pange-
ran’s Enthusiasm — Path to the Tawaran — Fine Scene — Fruit
Groves — Neat Gardens — -The Tawaran — Sacred Jars — The
Talking Jar — Attempted Explanation — Efficacy of the Water — ■
Carletti’s Account — Fabulous Value — The Loveliest Girl in
Borneo — No Rice — Advance to Bawang — Our Guides — Steep
Hill — Extensive View — Si Nilau — Unceremonious Entry into a
House — The Nilau Tribe — Ivalawat Village — Tiring Walk —
Desertion of a Negro — Numerous Villages — Bungol Village
Large — Deceived by the Guide — Fatiguing Walk — Koung
Village — Black Mail — Explanation — Friendly Relations esta-
blished— Labang Labang Village — Change of Treatment — Kiau
Village — Warm Reception — Houses — No Rice — Confidence.

In June, 1858, the cholera which had been slowly
advancing towards us from the soulh, suddenly burst

START FROM LA3UAN.

281

upon Brunei with extreme violence, and laid the city
in mourning. From day to day the deaths increased
in number ; every house tlew white streamers, which
showed cholera was there present ; pious processions
paraded the town, the mosques were crowded, all
merriment at an end, though religious chants were
heard from every boat ; there was fear, but no panic,
and the sick were cared for by their relations. The
deaths were awfully sudden, one of my servants at
work at five, was dead by eleven. My house was
crowded by anxious parents seeking medicine, which
was soon all distributed, and no one thought of
business, attention being only given to this fearful
scourge.

Mr. Low and I had determined to make another
attempt to ascend Kina Balu in August, hut fearing
that if the cholera spread along the coast before we
reached our point of debarkation, the Dusuns and
Ida’an might prevent our passing through their vil-
lages, we resolved to anticipate the appointed time,
and sailed from Labuan early in July, and in a few
hours passed Tanjong Kubong, near the northern
point of the island, where the best coal seams are
situated. The view from the sea is very picturesque :
two hills, grass-covered, with the dark outlines of the
forest in the rear, and a valley between, sloping up-
wards, showing, at one glance, the works of the coal
company. On a bold rocky bluff is the manager’s
house, overlooking the open sea, with a clear view of
the great mountain. It is to he regretted that there
is no good anchorage in the north-east monsoon off
this point, as it necessitates a railway of seven miles
being carried through the island to the splendid

282

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

harbour of Victoria. However, should this work be
undertaken, it is very possible it may be the means of
opening out the other veins which are known to
exist in the centre of the island. The coal seams of
Tanjong Ivubong are perhaps as fine as any in the
world ; and it is probable that the failures in develop-
ing them have arisen from applying the same means
of working the mine as are used in England,
forgetting that the fall of rain is four times as
great. Labuan ought to supply all the farther
East with coal, and may yet do so, under judicious
management.

Passing on, we steered clear of the Pine shoals, and
directed our course to Pulo Tiga, an island so called
from the three undulating hills that form its surface.
It is quite uninhabited, except occasionally by a few
fishermen or traders, seeking water there. On its
broad sandy beaches turtle are said to congregate,
and here we have picked up some very pretty shells,
particularly olives. The coast between Labuan and
Nosong point, at the entrance of Kimanis Bay, con-
sists of low hills only partly cleared. At one place
there are some bluff, red-looking points called Tanah
Merab, or Red Land, and near it are many villages of
Bisayas, who are engaged in planting pepper. Their
gardens are said to be very neatly kept, and the
system, which has descended to them from the former
Chinese cultivators, is far superior to that pursued in
Sumatra. There the Malays allowr the vines to twine
round the quick-growing Chingkariang tree, whose
roots must necessarily absorb much of the nourish-
ment ; but here they plant them in open ground, and
train them up ironwood posts, thus preserving to them

KIMANIS BAY.

283

all the benefit of the manure they may apply to
enrich the soil. Although the Bisayas are not care-
ful cultivators, yet they prepare heaps of burnt earth
and decaying weeds to place round the stems of the
vines before they commence flowering.

Along this beach, herds of wild cattle are often seen
wandering, particularly on bright moonlight nights, in
search, most probably, of salt, which they arc so fond
of licking. All the natives declare that the species
found here is smaller than those monsters I saw up
the Limbang and Baram. It is very likely there may
he two kinds.

pleasant S.W. breeze carried us rapidly along
this coast. Our craft, though not famous for its sailing
qualities, ran well before the wind. It was a small
yacht, belonging to the Eastern Archipelago Com-
pany, the same which we used when we went to Abai
in the spring. Dr. Coulthard had put himself to
some inconvenience in lending it to us, as he was
obliged to content himself with a native-built boat of
mine, that was called by the ominous name of the
“ Coffin,” and on one occasion nearly proved to be one
to the obliging doctor. I myself had great faith in
that boat, as it had taken me safely through many a
hard blow.

Rounding Nosong Point, we crossed the broad Bay
of Kimanis, which here runs deep into the land, and
receives the waters of numerous rivers. Just round
the point is Qualla Lama, or the Old Mouth : enter-
ing this, a large boat can pass through an inner
channel, and reach the mouth of the Kalias, opposite
Labuan. It is often used by the Malays to avoid the
heavy sea, which, during the height of the south-west

231

SECOND ASCENf OF KINA BALD.

monsoon, breaks upon this coast. The shores of
Kimanis Bay are rather low, yet have an interesting
appearance, from the variety of tints to be observed
among the vegetation.

There runs into this bay a pretty little river of the
same name — Kimanis, from Jcayu manis , “sweet wood.”
Its forests are famous for the large amount of cassia
hark which used to be collected there, hut which has
now all been exhausted near the banks by the con-
tinued requisitions from the capital. This district is
the appanage of one of the sons of the late Sultan, the
Pahgcran Tumanggong, and he used every year to
send up several trading prahus to he loaded with
cassia, — paying to the aborigines tenpence for every
133 lbs., and selling the same amount for nine
shillings. As long as the bark could he easily
obtained from the trees near the hanks of the river,
the people were content to work for the low price ;
hut as soon as it required a long walk from their
villages, the Muruts declared the whole forest was
exhausted. I am assured, however, by trustworthy
men, that ship-loads might he obtained, if the
aborigines were offered fair prices ; hut the noble and
his followers do their utmost to preserve a strict
monopoly. And this is the case in most of the
districts near the capital. Though they cannot them-
selves obtain much from the people, they have still
sufficient influence to paralyze trade.

Kimanis, like most of the other rivers north of
Lahuan, is obstructed by a bar ; in fact, though I
could see its mouth from my boat, yet I could not
find the channel, till a Malay canoe led the way by
coasting south about three hundred yards : then,

DEATH OF PANGERAN USUP.

285

palling straight for the shore over the boiling surf,
we soon found ourselves in the smooth river. The
scenery, though not grand, is very lovely, and consists
generally of the variety to he observed in the groves
of cocoa-nuts and fruit-trees which line its hanks,
and the cultivated fields stretching inland. I always
remember my visit to Kimanis with pleasure, as it
was on turning a wooded point I had my first view of
Kina Balu. A straight reach of the river stretched
before us, overshadowed on either side by lofty trees,
and the centre of the picture was the precipices and
summit of the massive mountain.

On the left-hand hank is the grave of Pahgeran
Usup, who, flying from the capital, met his death,
under orders from the Government, at the hand of
the chief of this river. I have heard the story told
several ways, hut the one the Orang Kaya relates
himself is a curious illustration of Bornean manners.
The Pafigeran, flying from his enemies in the capital,
came to Kimanis, which was one of his appanages, and
asked its local chief whether he would protect him.
The Orang Kaya protested his loyalty, but, a few
days after, receiving an order from the Government
to seize and put his guest to death, he made up his
mind to execute it. He imparted the secret to three
of his relations, whom he instructed to assist him.
Pahgeran Usup was a dangerous man with whom
to meddle, as he was accompanied by a devoted
brother, who kept watch over him as he slept or
bathed, and who received the same kind offices when
he desired to rest. For days the Orang Kaya
watched an opportunity — tending on his liege lord,
holding his clothes while he bathed, bringino- his

1 O o

286

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

food, but never able to surprise him, as be or his
brother were always watching with a drawn kris in
his hand. The three relations sat continually on the
mats near, in the most respectful attitude. The
patience of the Malay would have carried him
through a more difficult trial than this, as I think
it was on the tenth day Pahgeran Usup, while stand-
ing on the wharf, watching his brother bathe, called
for a light. The Orang Kava brought a large piece
of firewood with very little burning charcoal on it,
and the noble in vain endeavoured to light his cigar.
At last, in his impatience, he put down his kris, and
took the wood in his own hand. A fatal mistake !
The treacherous friend immediately threw his arms
round the Pahgeran, and the three watchers, spring-
ing up, soon secured the unarmed brother. Usup
was immediately taken to the back of the house, and
executed and buried on the hill, where his grave was
pointed out to me.

We continued our voyage along the coast till about
four in the afternoon, when heavy clouds rising in
the south-west warned us that a squall was coming
up. We, therefore, resolved to take shelter under
the little islet of Dinaman, to the north of the Papar
River. At first, we thought of running in there, as
I had not yet seen this district, so famous for the
extent and beauty of its cocoa-nut groves, and for the
numerous population which had rendered the river’s
banks a succession of gardens.

Our anchorage sheltered us tolerably well from the
storm which now burst over us, but we rolled heavily
as the swell of the sea came in. Drenching rain and
furious blasts generally pass away quickly, as they

GAYA BAY.

2S 7

did that evening, and left us to enjoy the quiet, star-
light night.

We always endeavour to start on an expedition a
few days before full moon, having a theory that the
weather is more likely to he tine then, than during
the days which immediately follow a new moon.

Next morning we set sail for Gaya Bay, and in a
few hours a light breeze carried us over a rippling
sea to the deep entrance of this spacious harbour, in
which all the navy of England could, in both mon-
soons, ride in safety. It is formed by numerous
islands and an extended headland, which make it
appear almost land-locked. The harbour is sur-
rounded by low hills, some cleared at the top, pre-
senting pretty green patches, others varied with
bright tints, caused by exposed red sandstone ; the
rest covered with low thick jungle.

When I last visited this place, Pangeran Madoud
lived up the Kabatuan river, which flows into the bay,
but had now removed to the shore, and established
there a village called Gantisan. I had twice visited

this Malay chief, and on both occasions had dis-
agreeable news to impart to him, as I had to remon-
strate against his system of taking goods from English
traders and forgetting to pay them when the price
became due. The banks of the Kabatuan, except
near the entrance, were entirely of mangrove-swamp,
until we arrived within a short distance of the
scattered village of Menggatal, hut from our boat
we could see the sloping hills that rose almost imme-
diately behind the belt of mangrove.

The first buildings we saw were those in which the
natives were making salt. I have already described

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

the process pursued in the Abai, but here it was
somewhat different, as they burnt the roots of the
mangrove with those of the nipa palm, as well as
wood collected on the sea-beach, and therefore im-
pregnated with salt. In one place, I noticed a heap,
perhaps fifteen feet in height, sheltered by a rough
covering of palm-leaves, and several men were about
checking all attempts of the flames to burst through
by throwing salt-water over the pile. This, doubtless,
renders the process much more productive. In one
very large shed, they had a kind of rough furnace,
where they burnt the wood ; and suspended around
were many baskets in which the rough remains of the
fire are placed, and the whole then soaked in water
and stirred about till the salt is supposed to have
been extracted from the charcoal and ashes. The
liquid is then boiled, as at x\bai, in large iron pans
purchased from the Chinese.

The village of Menggatal contained about a hun-
dred houses scattered among the trees, and in the
centre was the residence of Pangeran Madoud,
tolerably well built of thick posts and plank walls.
We found chairs and tables had already penetrated
to this secluded spot, and the Pangeran was not a
little proud of being able to receive us in European
fashion. lie was at the period of our first visit
about forty, tall, and with rather a pleasant, quiet
countenance ; but having little strength of character,
was willing to enter into intercourse with the pirates,
if by so doing he could gain anything. He had,
in fact, just purchased from them a trading prahu,
which they had captured north of Labuan, after
having killed two of the Bornean crew, who were his

ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION.

289

own countrymen. Like all the other chiefs, he

attempts to monopolize the trade of his district, and
thus reduces it to a minimum.

While we were conversing, there came in a party
of the Ida’an, whose young chief had a very intelli-
gent countenance, broad-shouldered, with his waist
drawn in as tightly as he could ; over his breast
he wore strings of cowrie shells, and round his loins
neatly-worked rattan rings, and on his neck a brass
collar open at the side, enabling him to take it off
with ease. Their baskets were filled with hill
tobacco for the Pahgeran, who is said subsequently
to have so oppressed the neighbouring villages of
Ida’an, that they threatened to attack him, and being
rather timid, he retired before the storm. Building
their houses at Gantisan on freshly cleared jungle,
the Malays suffered severely from fever ; the whole
population is said to have been attacked, of whom
many died.

We found anchored at Lokporin, in the north-west
part of the bay, a Spanish brig, belonging to Monsieur
Cuarteron, the Prefect Apostolic of the newly-arrived
Roman Catholic mission. lie had built a hut and a
chapel of palm stems and leaves, as a commencement
of what he hoped would be a prosperous mission ; but
he had his attention too much directed to temporal,
to take proper care of spiritual affairs.*

We paid a visit to the Chief Pahgeran Madoud
and settled to leave our pinnace under his care, and
start next morning, as the cholera had already invaded
this place, and eight deaths were reported.

* A short account of this mission will be found at the end of the
second volume.

VOL. I.

290.

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BAKU.

Having distributed our luggage among our fol-
lowers, we landed and walked over to the waters of
the Mengkabong, a low ridge only separating them ;
from it we had a good view of this extensive salt
lake, tilled with islands, and on the inland side bor-
dered by hills. At the landing-place we met the
nominal ruler of Mengkabong, Pahgeran Duroup,
who had kindly provided canoes to take us to the
point where our walking journey would commence.
We stopped to breakfast at his house, and Monsieur
Cuartcron, who was with us, pointed out an intel-
ligent lad, the son of Duroup, whom lie intended to
raise to power over the surrounding countries, and
be himself the boy’s Prime Minister.

A Spaniard has many temptations to intrigue in
these districts, as there are here numerous inhabitants
of the Philippines, originally captured by the Lanun
and Balignini pirates, and sold into slavery. They
have married and intermarried with the inhabitants,
and forming a part of the regular population, arc
most unwilling to leave the country. Some have
risen to respectable positions, and nearly all have
turned Mahomedans. Still they have a respect and
a fear of the Spanish priests, and are much open to
their secular influence, though very few will re-enter
the Roman Church. As might be expected, the
priest’s political intrigues did no good, but, instead,
diffused suspicion and dislike among the natives.

We started again after breakfast, and passed the
entrance from the sea, through the chief town, and
by the numerous villages scattered about. Nearly
all the houses arc built on the water. We estimated
the population at above 6,000. A glance at the

MENGKABONG.

291

accompanying map will explain the kind of place
Meno-kabong is, but I may observe that this salt-
water creek or lake is very shallow, in many places
dry, or but a few inches deep at dead low-water, so
that it must be rapidly filling up, and all the plains
skirting the sea had probably a similar origin. To
the south and south-east it is surrounded by hills,
none of which exceeds eight hundred feet in height.

Mengkabong is the head-quarters of the Bajus on
the north-western coast of Borneo ; and being the
only population to be found in the villages scattered
over the lake, they are more tempted to pursue their
old habits than those of the northern rivers, who
have the Lanuns between them and the sea. They
arc hold seamen, and will venture anywhere in search
of wealth. When the Fiery Cross was wrecked on
a shoal far out in the China Seas, the captain and
crew made for Labuan. The news soon spread along
the coast that a ship with a valuable cargo was on
shore, and a small squadron of native prahus was
immediately fitted out at Mengkabong to look for her.
They boldly put forth to sea, visiting all the reefs
with which they were acquainted, and even pushing
their researches so far as to sight the coast of Cochin
China, known to the Malays under the name of
Annam. Their exertions were for them unfortunately
unavailing ; but they often pick up a prize, as when a
Bombay cotton ship was wrecked at Mengalong ; and
during the last China war, they found a large French
vessel deserted on a reef to the north of Borneo,
but which, to their infinite disgust, proved to have
only a cargo of coals. The Baju prahus may gene-
rally be known by their tripod masts, which consist

19—2

292

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA 15ALU.

of three tall bamboos, the two foremost fitted on
a cross beam, the last loose ; so that when a heavy
squall threatens, they can immediately strike their
masts. Their sails are not handsome ; for being
stuck out on one side, they look ungainly.

I have mentioned, in my account of our first expe-
dition to Kina Balu, the Baju attack on a village in
Bangucy ; they themselves often suffer from the fleets
of Balignini pirates, who return home from their
cruises in Dutch waters along the north-west coast of
Borneo, and pick up the fishermen they find at sea.
During the last few years they have seldom appeared
off the coast more than once during a season, and
then only touching at Sirik Point, and afterwards
giving our colony of Labuan a wide berth, to fetch
the coast again about Pulo Tiga.

The Balignini used to be the terror of the Indian
isles, hut their pursuits have been interfered with
and their gains much curtailed since the introduction
of steamers into the Archipelago. The Spaniards,
with heavy loss to themselves, drove them from their
haunts on the islands of Tongkil and Balignini in the
Sulu Archipelago, since which time they have never
again assembled in position^ so strong. These twro
small islands are low, surrounded with mangrove
swamps, and appear very similar to the eighteen
others we could count at the same time from the
deck of a ship. But behind the swamps wrere erected
formidable stockades, and the garrison made a stub-
born defence, although most of their fighting men
were away.

I heard a Spanish officer who was present give an
account of the attack : three times the native troops

HAJUS A LAWLESS PEOPLE.

293

charged, and three times they were driven back, till
the Spanish officers and artillerymen put themselves
in a body at tbe head of the force, and led the
storming party, and, with severe loss, won tbe inner
stockade. One of my Manilla followers on our
present expedition was a captive at the time, and had
concealed himself among the mangrove trees till tbe
fighting was over. lie said it was a fearful sight to
see tbe slaughter which had occurred — one hundred
and fifty of the Spanish force fell, and many more of
the pirates, as they had commenced killing their
women and children, till promised quarter.

I never saw a more savage set of fellows than those
who escaped from this attack. The Sultan of Sulu
had given them an asylum, and they were quartered
near the spot at which ships usually water. It is
about a mile from the capital, Sugh ; is on the
beach ; and the clear spring bubbles up through
the sand, where a pool is easily formed, at which the
casks are filled, or whence the hose is led into the
boats. The place is well marked by a tree, that, in
the distance, looks like an oak : its trunk is of enor-
mous thickness, hut low, as the spreading branches
stretch out from the stem about ten feet from the
ground, hut afford shelter to a considerable space,
and under its shade a market is held several times a
week. I measured its stem : it was above forty feet
in circumference at a man’s height above the ground,
and considerably more close to the earth, where the
gnarled roots were included.

The Bajus of Mengkabong are, as I have said, a
very lawless people, and the following anecdote, told
me by Signor Cuarteron, will assist to prove it. He

294

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

was anchored opposite his chapel in Lokporin, when
he heard that there was fighting in Mengkabong,
and, on inquiry, found that a boat, returning from
Labuan to Cagayan Sulu, had put into that place for
water, and was being attacked by the Bajus. He
instantly manned his boats and pulled round to the
salt-water lake. On arriving near the first village,
he saw several hundred men assembled in pralius,
round a detached house, near which a trading-boat
was fastened, and guns were occasionally discharged.
He inquired the reason, and the Bajus declared they
were going to revenge the death or captivity of some
of their countrymen who had disappeared a few
months before, and whom, they had heard, people
from Cagayan Sulu had attacked. It was immaterial
to them whether these were the guilty parties or not,
if they came from the same country. Signor Cuar-
tcron then pulled up to the detached house, to find
from its beleaguered inmates who thev were. He soon
discovered they were peaceful traders, not concerned
in the outrage of the spring ; upon which, by dint of
threats and persuasion, he was enabled to rescue
them from the Bajus, and escort them to the mouth
of the Mengkabong — a very creditable action of the
priest. The lawlessness of the Bajus is notorious,
and they are now seldom employed, since the murder
of some Chinese traders, who trusted them to form
the crew of their boat.

Pangeran Duroup, the nominal ruler of this place,
always kept aloof from these things, as the Bajus
despised any order he gave ; in fact, their open
defiance of his authority had induced him to remove
from the town to a little island nearly facing the

ANECDOTE OF A DRIFTING CANOE. 295

mouth, whose low land was formed of mud on a bed
of water- worn pebbles.

A very barbarous custom exists on this coast — that
wrecks and their crews belong to the chief of the
district where they may suffer their misfortune. The
Bajus used to give us much trouble on this account,
though they would now assist the distressed, if they
belonged to an English vessel, as they are well aware
of our power to reward or punish.

As an instance of the above practice, I may relate
an incident which took place whilst I was in Brunei.
A large prahu sailing from Palawan to the Spanish
settlement of Balabak was caught in a violent storm,
and the captain noticed that his canoe, which, accord-
ing to custom, he was towing behind, was rapidly
filling with water; he therefore anchored, and ordered
three men to get into and bail it out. The storm
continued, and driving rain and mist rendered every
object indistinct, when suddenly the towing rope
parted, and the canoe drifted away. The three men,
having no paddles, soon lost sight of their prahu, and
continued driving before the wind.

The north-east monsoon was blowing, and the cur-
rent sets down the coast, and, after a few days, this
canoe was seen drifting towards the shore at Tutong,
at least 150 miles from the spot where it had parted
with its companion. The fishermen put off, and, on
reaching the boat, found the three men lying in it,
utterly exhausted from want of food and water, and
from the daily and nightly exposure. They were sent
on to the capital, and in a short time recovered,
when they found they were considered as slaves of
the Sultan.

296

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

In this emergency they came privately to my house
and laid their case before me : so, in the evening, I
went to the Sultan to hear the wonderful story from
his own lips ; and, when he had concluded, I con-
gratulated him on the excellent opportunity he had
of renewing friendly relations with the people of
Palawan, by sending these men hack in a prahu
which was to sail for Maludu the following day. He
hesitated at first, hut after a little persuasion agreed
to do so, and I had the satisfaction of seeing them
safely out of the river. The Sultan did not regret
sending them away ; hut lie had been so accustomed
to consider he had a right to these godsends, that
lie would certainly have kept them, had he not been
asked to let them go.

I have noticed, in my account of our first expedi-
tion to Kina Balu, howr mixed in breed were many of
the Bajus with whom we conversed; hut, although
there is occasionally some Chinese blood found among
them, yet it has rarely left a trace on their features.
They appear to me to he very much like the Orang
Laut, who frequent the small islands to the south of
Singapore and about the Malay peninsula ; they arc
generally, however, smaller, and their voices have
a sharper intonation than that of the Malays.

I think, however, that the bold spirit shown by
these men, their love of the seas, and their courage,
might he turned to good account under a steady
Government.

Leaving the lake we pushed up a narrow creek to
a house inhabited by Pangeran Sirail, who politely
requested us to spend the night at it, adding that in
the morning a bazaar would he held close at hand, at

A MARfcEf.

297

which we should meet all the Dusuns of the Tawaran
river ; among others the Data of the village of
Tamparuli, the chief who escorted Mr. Low in his
journey undertaken in 1851. We were happy to
accede to his request, and finding his house very
comfortable, took up our quarters in a charming
little audience hall or smoking-room which extended
in front, and wras neat and clean.

Our baggage being heavy, we hired some Bajus to
assist our men, and then lighting our lamps, sat down
to dinner. Our host, while declaring that his religion
prevented him joining in a glass of whiskey and
water, was suddenly seized with such severe spasms
in the stomach as to require medicine ; we unsmilingly
administered a glass of warm whiskey and water,
which our host drank with evident gusto, but it re-
quired a second to complete the cure. As the
evening advanced, and his utterance became more
indistinct, he kept assuring us that a Mahomedan
should never drink, except when spirits were taken
as medicine.

W e were sorry to find that the cholera had already
reached Mengkabong, and that several deaths had
taken place. In the night we were disturbed by
piercing shrieks and mournful wails from a neighbour-
ing house ; we thought it was another victim of the
epidemic, but it proved to be a young girl sorrowing
for the loss of a sister, who died in the night from
abscess.

Early in the morning the market-people began to
assemble, and Bajus and Dusuns crowded round the
house ; the former brought salt, salted fish, iron, and
cloth, to exchange for rice, vegetables, and fruit.

298

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

These markets are very convenient, and, as at Brunei,
are held daily at different points, in order to ac-
commodate the various villages scattered around the
lake. To-day there was a very great gathering, as
many disputes had to he settled.

The old Datu of Tamparuli came, and at first
appeared uninterested and scarcely noticed us, his
eye-sight was weak, and he appeared dull and stupid.
A glass of whiskey and water revived his energies
and his recollection, he shook Mr. Low warmly by
the hand, and then turning to the assembly told them
in an excited voice of the wonderful feats lie had per-
formed in the old journey, and how he had actually
reached the summit of Kina Balu.

This fired the ambition of Pangeran Sirail, wno,
as long as he was under the influence of whiskey,
declared it would be dishonour to allow the white
men to do this difficult task alone, and pointing to
the craggy summits now clearly visible above the
trees, swore he would reach them, but his courage
soon oozed out at his fingers’ ends. The Datu, how-
ever, considered himself as too old again to attempt
the journey, but said he would send his son-in-law
and a party of followers.

When the market was over we started, most of our
baggage being placed on light bamboo sledges drawn
by buffaloes, which appeared to pass over the soft soil
with great ease. The path, nearly due east, lay over a
pretty plain for the most part under cultivation ; men
were ploughing, harrowing, and sowing in various
fields, that were carefully divided into small squares
with slight embankments between them. The plough-
ing was better than at Tampasuk, deeper, and the

FRUIT GROVES.

299

ground more turned over ; each section of these fields
is as much private property as any in England, and in
general so much valued as to be rarely parted with.

In crossing this cultivated plain we had the
finest view of Kina Balu that could be imagined,
it was just before we reached the Tawaran river;
wre were standing where the young rice was showing
its tender green above the ground : on either side were
groves of tall palms, and in front, the hills rose in
successive ranges till Kina Balu crowned the whole.
Its purple precipices were distinctly visible, and broad
streams of water, flashing in the bright morning sun,
were flowing down the upper slopes to disappear in
mist or deep ravines, or to be lost in the shadows of
the great mountain.

About three miles walking brought us to the
Tawaran, whose banks were lined with groves of
cocoa-nut and other fruit-trees ; interspersed among
which were Dusun villages and detached houses. We
observed also a plantation of sago palms, which the
inhabitants said were plentiful, but certainly not in
the parts we had traversed.

There were also gardens here as neatly fenced in
and as carefully tended as those of the Chinese ; and
this rich soil produced in great perfection sugar-cane,
Indian corn, yams, kiladis, and other vegetables.
The whole had a very civilized appearance, the
neatness was remarkable, and about the houses were
cattle, buffaloes, and goats, in great numbers. On
reaching the Tawaran, Monsieur Cuarteron left us
to visit a Manilla man, who, though formerly a cap-
tive sold into slavery, had now become the chief of a
Dusun village.

300

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALL*.

We continued our course inland alonjr the banks of
the Tawaran until we reached Tamparuli, prettily
embowered in extensive groves of fruit-trees : we took
up our quarters for the night at the old Datu’s house,
which was very similar to those of the Sea Davaks.

The Tawaran, where we first joined it, was about
sixty yards broad, and the stream was rapid, swollen
by the late rains, and muddy from recent landslips.
It is a river very unimportant in itself, as here, not
perhaps ten miles from the sea, there are already rapids
that can only he passed by very small native craft.

The old Datu of Tamparuli is the proud possessor
of the famed sacred jar I have already referred to.
It was a Gusi, and was originally given by a Malau
chief in the interior of the Kapuas to a Pakatan
Dayak, converted, however, to Islam, and named
Japar. lie sold it to a Bornean trader for nearly
two tons of brass guns, or 230/., who brought it to
the Tawaran to resell it, nominally for 400/., really
for nearly 700/. No money passes on these occa-
sions, it is all reckoned in brass guns or goods,
and the old Datu was paying for his in rice,
lie possesses another jar, however, to which he
attaches an almost fabulous value ; it is about two
feet in height, and is of a dark olive green. He
fills both the jars with water, and adds flowers and
herbs to retail to all the surrounding people who
may be suffering from any illness. The night we
were there they little thought that a scourge was
coming upon them which would test to the utmost
the virtue of the sacred jars.

Perhaps, however, the most remarkable jar in
Borneo, is the one possessed by the present Sultan

THE TALKING JAIL

301

of Brunei, as it not only has all the valuable pro-
perties of the other sacred vases, but speaks. As
the Sultan told this with a grave face and evident
belief in the truth of what he was relating, we
listened to the storv with great interest. lie said,
the night before his first wife died, it moaned sorrow-
fuliv, and on every occasion of impending misfortune
it utters the same melancholy sounds. I have suffi-
cient faith in his word to endeavour to seek an expla-
nation of this (if true) remarkable phenomenon, and
perhaps it may arise from the wind blowing over its
mouth, which may be of some peculiar shape, and
cause sounds like those of an JEolian harp. I should
have asked to see it, had it not been always kept in
the women’s apartments.

As a rule, it is covered over with gold-em-
broidered brocade, and seldom exposed, except when
about to be consulted. This may account for its
only producing sounds at certain times. I have
heard, that in former days, the Muruts and Bisayas
used to come with presents to the Sultan, and obtain
in return a little water from this sacred jar, with
which to besprinkle their fields to ensure good crops.
I have not known an instance of their doing so during
late years, as the relations between monarch and
people arc now of the most unsatisfactory kind.

In looking over Carletti’s Voyage, I find he men-
tions taking some sacred jars from the Philippine
Islands to Japan, which were so prized there, that
the punishment of death was denounced against them
if they were sold to any one hut the Government.
Some, he says, were valued as high as 30,000/. The
Sultan of Brunei was asked if he would take 2,000/.

302

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA RALU.

for his ; he answered he did not think any offer in
the world would tempt him to part with it.

The Datu possessed a daughter, the loveliest girl
in Borneo. I have never seen a native surpass her
in figure, or equal her gentle, expressive counte-
nance. She appeared but sixteen years of age, and
as she stood near, leaning against the door-post in the
most graceful attitude, we had a perfect view of all
her perfections. Ilcr dress was slight indeed, con-
sisting of nothing but a short petticoat reaching from
her waist to a little above her knees. Her skin was
of that light clear brown which is almost the perfec-
tion of colour in a sunny clime, and as she was just
returning from bathing, her hair unbound fell in
great luxuriance over her shoulders. Her eyes were
black, not flashing, but rather contemplative, and her
features were regular, even her nose was straight.

So intent was she in watching our movements, and
wondering at our novel mode of eating, with spoons,
and knives and forks, that she unconsciously remained
in her graceful attitude for some time ; but suddenly
recollecting that she was not appearing to the best
advantage in her light costume, she moved away
slowly to her room, and presently came forth dressed
in a silk jacket and new petticoat, with bead neck-
laces and Gold ornaments. In our eyes she did not
look so interesting as before.

Pangeran Sirail now approached us to say that
he felt he was too old and weak to ascend the great
mountain, but had brought three of his people to
supply his place. We were not sorry, as his devo-
tion to whiskey would have sadly reduced our little
stock. Although it was but three months after the

ADVANCE TO BAWANG.

303

harvest, yet vve could obtain no supplies of rice ; they
had it in the form of padi, hut were unwilling to part
with it, so we sent back some of our followers to pro-
cure sufficient for a few days.

Next morning we made hut little progress, as we
had to wait for the men who had gone in search
of rice. However, we reached the village of Bawang,
our path lying among the fruit groves that skirted the
river’s banks. As it was now unfordable, we had to
cross it by a boat, and this was a slow process with
our large party.

Bawang, a Dusun village, consists of scattered
dwellings, like those of the Malays, while the
others we have seen resemble the houses of the
Sea Dayaks. A family very hospitably received us,
and gave up half their accommodation to 11s and
our immediate followers. The Datu who had ac-
companied us to this place now returned, handing us
over to Kadum, his son-in-law, a very dull-looking
man ; we were also joined by ten others. One, a
Malay named Omar, who was to act as interpreter
and guide, was a willing but a stupid fellow ; he came
originally from the Dutch settlement of Pontianak,
and had been married five years to a Dusun girl, vet
he could scarcely manage to act as interpreter, not so
much from ignorance, as from a confusion of ideas.

Started soon after six for a cleared spot about a
quarter of a mile above the village, where we stopped
to introduce some order in our followers : we divided
the packages among them, and found each of the
forty-one men had sufficient to carry.

About two or three miles above Bawang the
Tawaran divides — one branch running from the

301

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

south, the other from the S.E. by E. We soon
reached the foot of the sandstone range, which bounds
the low land, and like all heights composed of this
rock, it was very steep to climb. For a thousand
feet it was abrupt, and severe work to those unused
to such toil. The path then led us along the top of
the ridge to a peak about 1,500 feet high, from
which I was enabled to take compass bearings. A
fine view was to be had a few' feet from the summit,
the coast line being quite clear from Gaya Bay to
Sulaman Lake, and the distant isles scattered on the
sea were distinctly visible. A wide plain stretches below
us, mostly rice fields, with groves of fruit-trees inter-
spersed among them, and the Mcngkabong waters ap-
pearing extensive, form a pleasing feature in the scene.

We continued our course to the village of Si Nilau,
passing over a hill of a similar name, about 1,800 feet
high. The village, if village it can be called, where
a number of little detached hamlets are scattered
about the slopes of the hills, amid groves of palms, is a
good resting-place. We brought up here to give
time for our followers to join us, as they felt the
climbing more than we did, who carried nothing
but our weapons. We were three hours, exclusive of
stoppages, advancing four miles of direct course E.
by S. Most of the ranges run nearly E. and W.,
though occasionally there is some divergence.

After breakfasting, we started, hoping to reach the
next village of Kalawat, but our guide making a
mistake, led us in a totally wrong direction, so that
after wandering about two hours in a scorching sun
without shelter, we returned to Si Nilau.

Heavy masses of clouds were now driving over the

UNCEREMONIOUS ENTRY INTO A HOUSE.

303

sky, threatening a deluge of rain, so we determined to
spend the night here, and told our guide that we
would distribute our men among the houses. Omar
presently returned, saying the villagers refused us en-
trance into their dwellings. As now heavy drops began
to fall, I went down from the fruit grove, where our
party was assembled, and approaching a house which
appeared the neatest and the cleanest, I found the
door shut. There were evidently people inside, while
all the other houses were empty. It is an universal
custom in Borneo to afford shelter to travellers, but
they very rarely like to enter houses whose owners
are absent. Hearing some whispering going on
inside, I knocked and directed the interpreter to ask
for shelter ; there was no answer, and as the heavy
drops were coming down faster, I gave a vigorous
push to the door. The fastening gave way, and an
old woman fell back among a crowd of frightened
girls, who, at the sight of a white man, shrieked
and sprang to the ground through an opposite window.
They did not run far, but turned to look if they were
followed. We went to the window, and, smilingly
beckoned them to come back, and as the rain was
now beginning to descend with violence, they did so.
We apologized for our rough entry, but the high wind
that drove sheets of water against the house was our
best excuse. We promised to pay for our accommo-
dation, and in five minutes they were all busily
engaged in their usual avocations. On the return of
the men from their farms, we told them what had
occurred, at which they laughed heartily as soon as
they found we were not offended by having had the door
shut in our faces, and we then made many inquiries

306

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALE.

concerning the lake of Kina Balu, and whether either
branch of the Tawaran ran from it ; hut all the
Dusuns were positive that the river had its sources in
the hills, which we could see farther cast. Of the
lake itself they had never heard.

The Nilau tribe is very scattered, none of the
hamlets having above a dozen small houses ; but
in personal appearance Mr. Low found them much
improved since he saw them in 1851. It is impossible
even to guess at the population ; but judging from tlio
cleared appearance of the country, it must be tolerably
numerous. There is little old forest, except on the
summit of the highest ridges, all the land being used
in succession. Bice, however, is the principal culti-
vation, there being few kiladis, and we observed no
tobacco plantations.

their shoulders, and brought down so as to conceal
their bosoms.

Started early for Kalawat in an E. by S. direction.
A sharp ascent led us to the top of the heights
of Tangkahang, from which we had a very extensive
view, reaching from Mantanani to Mengkabong.
Banges of hills, nearly parallel to our walk, occurred
on either side, with feeders of the Tawaran at their
feet. After an hour’s walk, reached the Kalawat
hills, nearly 3,00 J feet high. The path passed, after
a few hundred yards, to the south of the range, per-
haps 200 feet from its summit, and after a mile turned
to the S.E. Then the walk became very tiring, up
and down the steepest of ravines, with slippery clay
steps or loose stones. I was not sorry, therefore, to
reach the village of Kalawat, a cluster of about ten

DESERTION OF A NEGRO.

307

houses, containing upwards of eighty families. The
village was dirty and so were the houses.

We stopped here to breakfast, and to wait the
arrival of our straggling followers, and heard of the
desertion of one of them. lie was a negro, of great
size and power, and, in muscular development, equal
to two or three of our other men. Our overseer had
chosen him to carry our edibles, as tea, sugar, salt,
and curry stuffs ; but had unfortunately trusted him
also with half a bottle of whiskey. lie had complained
bitterly of the exhausting nature of the walk, and no
sooner were our backs turned than he slipped into the
brushwood, and devoted himself to the hottle ; he
was found there by the overseer, who, after extracting
a promise that he would follow when sober, left him
with all our condiments. These very heavy muscular
men have generally proved useless in jungle work.
In all our arrangements we now greatly missed Musa,
my head boatman, who had stayed behind at Brunei,
to look after his family during the cholera.

Starting again, a very trying climb took us to the
top of a hill, from which a long but easy descent led
to the Tinuman, a feeder of the Tawaran. We
observed, both yesterday and to-day, many villages
scattered over the face of the country, as Tagau,
Bahgau, and others. Though there was no plain at
the foot of the hills, yet many of the slopes were
easy, occasionally almost flat.

At the little stream of Tinuman, we came upon
a party of Dusuns, belonging to the village of Buhgol,
who led us by a very winding path to their houses,
situated on the left-hand bank of the Tawaran.
We had scarcely reached it when rain came on, as

20—2

308

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA 15ALU.

it appears generally to do about three o’clock in the
afternoon in the neighbourhood of Kina Balu and
other lofty mountains.

Bungol is a large village, and contained, in 1851,
according to their own account, about 120 families ; but
this time (1858), they appeared uncertain how many
there were. I estimated, from the length of the
different houses that there were above 1 60 families.
It is situated on grassy, undulating land, about fifty or
sixty feet above the level of the stream ; yet the
inhabitants are exposed to floods, that reach their
houses and damage the crops on the low lands.

In our first expedition up the Tampasuk, we rested
at some houses of the Bungol Ida’an, but we could
discover no more connection between these commu-
nities of the same name than between the others.
Notwithstanding the pouring rain, we walked through
the village, and bathed in the rushing torrent that
ran beneath the houses, the Tawaran now deserves
no other name.

Next morning, Omar, the guide, came to say that
all the bridges of the regular path had been washed
away, and that it would be necessary to take us by
another, with which lie was unacquainted. AVe
suspected that this announcement was merely to serve
a friend who was hired as guide ; but we gave way
to their assurances that the old path was impassable,
and had reason to repent it, as, instead of taking
us by the direct route, only four miles in an cast
direction, lie led us first north, then north-east,
ending in east-north-east, and after wandering over
numerous pathless ranges, at last, after eight hours’
walking brought us to the Tampasuk, about three

KOUNG VILLAGE.

309

miles below the village of Koung. The dividing1 ranges
are very much broken up, and run in all directions.
A tributary of the Tawaran, to the north of us,
came within a mile of the Tampasuk, running direct
towards Sulaman, and then turning to the eastward.

We had beautiful views to-day of the surrounding
country, both towards the sea and towards the
mountains ; but had scarcely reached the Tampasuk
when heavy rain came on, totally obscuring the
prospect, and although we pushed on resolutely for
an hour, fording the swelling stream and climbing
the slippery banks, were at last obliged to stop at
a hut amid a field of kiladis, and give up our inten-
tion of reaching Koung.

We thought ourselves completely exhausted, until
we saw the bungling attempts of our men to set up
the tents. The Malays were very tired, and were
shivering in the drenching rain and cold wind which
swept down from the mountains, so we determined
before taking off our wet clothes to see our men com-
fortable. Under our directions, and with our active
assistance, the tents were soon raised, as the men,
encouraged by our example, worked with a will. But
it was a fatiguing day — nine hours of continued climb-
ing and descending.

On the following morning we proceeded to Koung.
There were few farms in sight that day, though
yesterday we saw immense clearings, some extending
over a whole hill-side, and all were working hard to

7 o

increase them.

On reaching Koung, we found the villagers assem-
bled, and crowds occupying the chief’s house. We
had intended, if possible, to reach the summit of

310

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALD.

Ivina Balu from this village, as on the last occasion,
we were disgusted with the conduct of the Iviau
people ; but soon ascertained it was not to he done,
as the western spurs did not reach above half way
up the mountain side ; nor was there any rice to
he procured in this village. We were also very
much astonished to hear the kind old chief asking
for black-mail ; it did not appear to come from
his heart, so we looked round to find who was his
prompter, and, at the first glance, discovered the
ugly face of Timbangan, a wall-eyed man — the very
chief who had tried to prevent our passing through
Labang Labang, in the spring. To give way would
have been absurd, as we should have had black-mail
demanded of us at every village, and increasing in a
progressive ratio. So we called up all the interpreters
and made them carefully explain what were our
motives in travelling and the objects we had in view ;
that we would pay for everything we required, or
for any damage done by our followers, hut not for
permission to travel through their country. AYe then
reminded them how their great enemies, the Lanuns
of Tampasuk and Pandasan, had been defeated by
the English, and how impossible it would be for the
Ida’an to fight with white men. A revolver was then
discharged through a thick plank, to show the effect
of that small instrument, and how useless a defence
their shields would prove ; and I handed the chief
my heavy double-barrelled rifle to examine, that he
might reflect on its great power.

The effect of the explanations and of the conical
halls was immediate, and we heard no more of black-
mail ; on the contrary, the most friendly relations

KIAU VILLAGE.

311

were established. To show what a curious people
they are, and how we appeared to have hit the hidden
springs of their actions, I may mention that we now
felt the utmost confidence in them, and asked the
chief to take care of a fever-stricken servant, and of
all such portions of our baggage as we did not wish
to carry on with us. lie cheerfully agreed to do all
we wished, and proved most friendly and useful. We
then made presents to his wife to a greater extent
than his demand for black-mail, trying to convince
them by our actions that the better they behaved
to us, the more kindly and liberally we should behave
to them.

Next morning we started for Kiau. We noticed,
the previous day, that Timbangan had disappeared
immediately after the pistol was discharged, which was
a demonstration especially intended for him, and one
of our guides told us he was about to collect his tribe
to dispute our further passage, and advised us to
make a detour round his village ; hut, if hostilities
were intended, it was better to face them, as, by the
lower path, we might easily have been surprised at a
ford or in some deep ravine. At the foot of the hill
we halted till all our force was collected, and then
marched up to the village. To our great surprise,
we found it deserted by all except Timbangan, who
offered his services as a guide ; though we knew the
way as well as he did, we cheerfully accepted his
services, and well rewarded them.

We followed the same path as during our last ex-
pedition, and reached Kiau without difficulty, to find
all our old acquaintances merry-making at a wedding.
We were rather anxious about our reception, after

312

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALE.

tlic lively scene that had closed our last visit, and
had determined to put ourselves in the hands of the
old man, Li Moung, as we were very dissatisfied with
the conduct of Li Maing, our former guide. We
entered the almost deserted house we had formerly
occupied, hut were soon surrounded by the wedding
guests, who came flocking down to meet us, and wel-
comed us in the most friendly and hearty manner.
And these were the very men with whom, on our last
visit, we were apparently about to exchange blows.
I say apparently, because I do not believe they ever
really intended to fight. They had been accustomed
to parties of Baju traders arriving at their village,
whom they could frighten into compliance with their
demands, and thought they might do the same with
us ; hut finding from their former experience they
could not, they did not attempt it this time, and we
ourselves placed the fullest confidence in them. The
Bajus, however, now seldom visit these distant vil-
lagers, who are thus compelled to take their own
produce to the coast, to be cajoled or plundered in
their turn, which is one of the reasons why cloth and
iron are so rare among them.

Li Moung was delighted with our determination to
leave all arrangements in his hands ; and Li Maing
was not very much dissatisfied, as a huge boil almost
prevented him walking. Wc made our beds under a
large window which opened from the public room, as
the only spot where fresh air could he obtained. This
house was better arranged than the ordinary SeaDayak
ones. Instead of having the whole floor on a level
with the door, they had a long passage leading through
the house : on one side the private apartments ; on

CONFIDENCE.

313

the other, a raised platform on which the lads and
unmarried men slept. We found this very comfort-
able, as the dogs were not permitted to wander
over it.

The wedding guests were very excited, having
drunk sufficient to loosen their tongues ; the men
were talkative, while the women pressed in crowds
round the foot of our mats. The great difficulty was,
as usual — no rice to he had.

Next day we sent our men through the village to
find if it were possible to procure provisions, hut
they only obtained sufficient for a day’s consumption.
This determined us to send hack to Mengkabong all
our followers but six to procure supplies. We told
the Ida’an of our resolve, and I think this proof of
our confidence had a great effect on them ; in fact,
we always treated them in the same way, whether we
were backed by a large force or not, and we never
had to repent of our conduct towards them.

314

CHAPTER X.

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU — Continued.

Return of the Men for Rice — Readiness to assist us — New Kinds of
Pitcher Plants — The Valley of Pinokok — Beautiful Nepenthes —
Kina Taki — Description of the Nepenthes Iiajah — Rocks Coated
with Iron — Steep Strata — The Magnolia — Magnificent Sunset
Scene — Fine Soil — Talk about the Lake — Change of Fashions
— Effect of Example — Rapid Tailoring — Language the same
among Ida’an, Dusun, and Bisaya — Reports — Start for Marei
Parei — The Fop Kama — Prepare Night Lodgings — Fragrant
Bed — Stunted Vegetation — Appearance of Precipices — Dr.
Hooker — Botanical Descriptions — Nepenthes Rajah — Manner of
Growing — Great Size — Used as a Bucket — Drowned Eat —
Nepenthes Edivardsiana — An Account of it — Beautiful Plants
— Botanical Description of Nepenthes Edwardsiana — Exten-
sive Prospects — Peaked Ilill of Saduk Saduk — Noble Buttress
— Situation for Barracks — Nourishing Food — Deep Valleys —
Familiar Intercourse with the Villagers — Turning the Laugh — •
Dirty Faces — Looking-glasses — Their Effect — Return of our Fol-
lowers— Start for the Mountain — Rough Cultivation — The Moun-
tain Rat used as Food — Our Old Guides — Difficult Walking — •
Scarlet Rhododendron — Encamp — Double Sunset — Nepenthes
Lowii — Botanical Description — Nepenthes Villosa — Botanical
Description — Extensive View of the Interior of Borneo — The
Lake — The Cave — Ascend to the Summit — Its Extent and Pecu-
liarities— Distant Views — North-western Peak — Severe Storm
— Injured Barometer — Useless Thermometers — Dangerous De-
scent— Accidents — Quartz in Crevices — Clean and Pleasant
Girls — Friendly Parting — Ida’an Sacrifices — Return by Koung
— Kalawat and Nilu — Death of Sahat — A Thief — Cholera —
Incantations and Method of Treatment — Arrival at Gantisan —
Fine Wharf- — The Pangeran — Bad Weather — Heavy Squall —
Little Rice to be had — Sail — Anchor at Gaya Island — Curious
Stones — Fish — Description of a magnificent Kind — Poisonous

NEW KINDS OF PITHCHER PLANT.

315

Fins — Set Sail — Awkward Position — Waterspout — Admiralty
Charts — Names require Correcting — Serious Mistake — Among
the Shoals — Fearful Squall — -Falling Stars and Brilliant Meteor
— Arrival at Labuan.

Kadum and the men of Tamparuli, together with the
overseer and most of our followers, started on their
journey, while we amused ourselves in collecting
vocabularies, and trying to make ourselves understood
by the people. They showed a great readiness to
assist us, particularly the girls, who made us repeat
sentences after them, and then burst into loud
laughter either at our pronunciation or the comical
things they had made us utter.

All the lads of the village were rejoiced at our
arrival, as we purchased the plants they brought in,
particularly those with variegated leaves, and they thus
obtained brass wire and cloth. One evening, a man,
who had been visiting another village of this tribe,
produced from his basket specimens of two new kinds
of nepenthes, or pitcher-plants, which were wondrous
to behold, so we determined to make a visit to the
spot where he found them.

As the man assured us it would be a very long-
walk, we provided ourselves with blankets, to enable
us to sleep out a night, if necessary. We passed over
a hill at the back of the village, which, where the
path crosses it, is about live hundred feet above the
houses, and is a continuation of a spur of Kina Balu.
We then descended into a ravine, and, crossing over
a subspur, had a tine view of a valley about three
miles broad. A stream ran on either side of it, and
between was a tine space almost flat, at the lower end
of which was the village of Pinokok. Having de-

316

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

scendcd and crossed two streams called Ilaya Hava,
which soon joined, however, into one to form the
Pinokok, we traversed the plain, and rested on the
hanks of the Dahombang, or Ilobang Stream, to
breakfast on sweet potatoes and sardines, the worst
things that can he imagined for a morning meal.
Crossing the Ilobang, a steep climb led us to the
western spur, along which our path lay ; here, at
about 4,000 feet, Mr. Low found a beautiful white
and spotted pitcher-plant, which he considered the
prettiest of the twenty-two species of nepenthes with
which lie was then acquainted ; the pitchers are white
and covered in the most beautiful manner with spots
of an irregular form, of a rosy pink colour. On each
leaf is a row of very soft downy hairs running along
its edge, and a similar brown pubescence grows on the
cups. It is a climbing plant, and varies from fifteen
to twenty feet in length. Its leaves are about
nine inches long in the blade, and have winged
petioles which arc carried down the stem to the next
leaf below, each of which bears a pitcher on a pro-
longed petiole about fifteen inches in length.

We continued our walk along the ridge until we
had reached an elevation of 4,500 feet, when the path
descended to the pleasant stream, or rather torrent, of
Kina Taki, in which greenstone was the principal rock.
All the rivulets we have passed to-day fall into the
Dahombang, which continues its course until, winding
round the bluff point of Labang Labang, it joins the
Tampasuk. Another steep climb of 800 feet brought
us to the Marci Parci spur, to the spot where the
ground was covered with the magnificent pitcher-
plants, of which we had come in search. This one

NEPENTHES RAJAH.

317

lias been called the Nepenthes Rajah , and is a plant
about four feet in length, with broad leaves stretching
on every side, having the great pitchers resting on
the ground in a circle about it. Its shape and size
are remarkable. I will give the measurement of a
small one, to indicate the form : the length along the
back was nearly fourteen inches ; from the base to
the top of the column in front was five inches ; and
its lid was a foot long by ima? inches broad, and of
an oval shape. Its mouth was surrounded by a
plaited pile, which near the column wras two inches
broad, lessening in its narrowest part to three-quarters
of an inch. The plaited pile of the mouth was also
undulating in broad waves. Near the stem the pitcher
is four inches deep, so that the mouth is situated upon
it in a triangular manner. The colour of an old
pitcher was a deep purple, but was generally mauve
outside, very dark indeed in the lower part, though
lighter towards the rim ; the inside is of the same
colour, but has a kind of glazed and shiny appearance.
The lid is mauve in the centre, shading to green at
the edges. The stems of the female flowers we found
always a foot shorter than those of the male, and the
former were far less numerous than the latter. It is
indeed one of the most astonishing productions of
nature.

Mr. Low set to work enthusiastically to collect
specimens, while I tried to procure some compass
hearings ; but the mist kept driving over the country,
so that I had only one good opportunity. I rested
the compass on a rock, and was surprised by its
pointing in a very different direction from what the
position of the sun showed it should. On raising

318

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

it in my hands, it pointed correctly. I found, on
examination, that the rock was covered with a thick
coating of iron, and all in the neighbourhood were
in a similar state. To-day we reached an elevation
of 5,400 feet. The path we followed was tolerably
good ; we were told that it led to the village of
Sayap, a branch of the Kiau tribe.

The sandstone near the mountain is almost perpen-
dicular, being at an angle of 80° : lower down the
sides it lessens. It appears as if the molten granite
had been forced up through the sandstone. Along
the sides of the spurs were huge boulders of granite,
left, doubtless, by the streams ere they cut their way
deeper in the earth. Mr. Low having finished col-
lecting, we returned, and during the walk were con-
tinually regaled with the rich perfume of the flowers
of the magnolia, but could not find one of them,
though the plant was a common shrub. After a
tiring descent, we reached the plain about five, and
made preparations to pass the night at a hut belong-
ing to Limoung, in the valley of Tinokok.

We never had a finer view of Kina Balu than this
evening. A white cloud in the form of a turban,
its edges richly fringed with gold, encompassed most
of the highest peaks, while the brightness of the set-
ting sun rendered every other portion of the mountain
distinctly visible, except those dark valleys cut deep
in its sides, where the Dahombang and the Pinokok
have their rise ; and even here a succession of cascades
reflected back the sun’s rays from the shadowy gloom.

We were standing opposite its western face, and
havino- no hi<di buttress between us and the moun-
tain, we could observe the great precipice, which is

TALK ABOUT THE LAKE.

319

here nearly perpendicular from the sloping summit
down to an elevation of about 5,000 feet. As we
stood there admiring the extreme beauty of the scene,
a double rainbow began to appear, and apparently
arching over the mountain, formed, as it were, a
bright framework to the picture. We stayed there
until the sun setting1 beyond the distant hills threw
the valley into shade, but left its brightness on the
craggy peaks above. Gradually the wind rose
and drove the clouds over the heavens, and the
form of the mountain and the brilliant rainbows
vanished.

The land in this valley is of the richest descrip-
tion— far superior, Mr. Low thought, to that used in
Ceylon for coffee plantations. The hut where we
stayed the night was 3,000 feet above the level of the
sea, and the hills around about 4,000 feet.

Next morning we returned to the houses by the
same path, and rested on the summit of the hill over-
looking the village. Here we sat for some time,
making inquiries about the great lake. They speak
of it as undoubtedly existing, saying we could reach
it in three days. One who had traded with the
villages on its banks asserted that standing on the
beach, he could not see the opposite side. The first
village on the road is Tuhan, and the next Inserban :
they all call the lake llanau, a corruption of the
Malay Danau. We could scarcely make any con-
nected inquiries, on account of the indifference or
stupidity of our interpreter ; but seriously discussed
the possibility of our being able to combine the two
journeys, but found our means insufficient. With
our party we should have taken a long time, parti-

320

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA 15ALU.

cularly as the villagers refused to furnish us with
guides until their rice-planting was over.

We noticed the great change that had taken place
in the ways and tastes of these people. When
Mr. Low7 was here in 1851, beads and brass wire
were very much sought after. When we came last
April, the people cared nothing for beads, and very
little for cloth ; their hearts were set on brass wire.
We, however, distributed a good deal of cloth, at
reasonable rates, in exchange for food and services
rendered. We now7 found that even brass wire, except
of a very large size, v7as despised, and cloth eagerly
desired. Chawats were decreasing, and trousers
coming in. This is a taste very likely to continue, as
the weather at Kiau is generally very cool, and it
might also stimulate their industry. At present,
although they keep their plantations very clean, they
use no instrument to turn up the soil, merely putting
the seed in a hole made by a pointed stick. In
size, their kiladis, sweet potatoes, and rice arc very
inferior and their crops scanty, though the flavour
of their productions is excellent, but with their
tobacco they appear to take much pains. Thinking
that potatoes might flourish here, Mr. Low7, in 1856,
sent some by Mr. Lobb to be given to the villagers
to plant ; next morning, however, he found the little
boys playing marbles with them.

Even the more civilized Javanese cared little for
the seeds of European vegetables which w7ere distri-
buted freely by the Dutch Government. It at last
struck some shrewd officer that if the natives saw the
results of cultivating these vegetables, they might be
induced to turn their attention to them. lie there-

11 A PI D TAILORING.

321

fore obtained permission to establish a model garden,
and tbe result was satisfactory. The Javanese, who
had despised the seeds, could not overlook the profit
to be derived from the sale of the crops of potatoes,
cabbages, and other esculents, displayed for their
imitation, and were then grateful for seeds. Nothing
but some such scheme will ever induce the Dayaks
to alter their present slovenly system of cultivation.

Among those who accompanied us to Marei Parei
was a young lad, who was paid for his services in
gray shirting and thin brass wire. As soon as he
had received them, lie cut off three inches of tbe
wire, and began beating out one end and sharpen-
ing the other : it was to make a needle. Ilis sister
brought him some native-made thread : then with his
knife he cut the cloth into a proper shape, and set
to work to make a pair of trousers ; nor did he cease
his occupation till they were finished, and by evening
he was wearing them.

We were so pleased with our visit to the Marei
Parei spur that we determined to move thither for a
few days with our servants, and live in tents. In the
meantime we continued our collection of Kiau words,
which was difficult work with our interpreters.

It has been thought that the tribes living around
Kina Pain speak different languages, but we found,
on the contrary, that the Ida’an, Dusun, and even the
Bisaya, can converse freely with each other. We had
with us, during our different expeditions, Bisayas from
the river Kalias, opposite Labuan, an interpreter who
had learnt the language from the people in the in-
terior of Membakut, Malays who had learnt it at
Kimanis, Dusuns from Tamparuli, on the Tawaran,

-21

VOL. I.

322

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

and Ida’an from tho plains of Tampasuk ; and yet,
after a few days, to become accustomed to the dif-
ferences of dialect, all these men conversed freely
with the Kiaus. If they arc asked whether they
speak the same languages, they will answer, “ No,”
and give as an example — “ We say iso, when the
Kiaus say eiso, for ‘no’; ” hut these are only local-
isms. I must add, that none of these people had ever
visited the Kiaus until they accompanied us.

In making vocabularies here we found the villagers
very careless of their pronunciation : for instance, the
word “ heavy ” was at different times written down,
mag at, bagat, wagat , and ogat ; for “rice,” ivagas
and ogas ; for “to bathe,” padshu, pad-sin, and madsiu ,
and indifferently pronounced in these various ways by
the same people. Many years previously, when I was
at Maludu Bay, I collected a few words of the Ida’an,
and they were essentially the same as those of the
aborigines of Tampasuk ; and the Malays tell me
that the Ida’an of the north-eastern coast speak so
as to be understood by them, who have acquired
their knowledge on the western coast. I may here
observe that the same people are indifferently called
Dusun and Ida’an. The term Dusun, the real mean-
ing of which is villager, is applied to these northern
inhabitants of Borneo by the Malays, while the Bajus
generally call them Ida’an.

While we were making preparations for our short
visit to Marei Parci, we noticed some agitation among
the Kiaus, and found it arose from a report that a
large party of Europeans had arrived at Bawang, on
the Tawaran, on their way to the mountain, and it was
added, heavy guns had been heard at sea. We could

THE FOP KAMA.

323

not, of course, offer any explanation, but thought
there was very little likelihood of any one coining to
join us, and suggested, what proved to be the truth,
that the news of our own arrival at Bawang had been
reaching them by a circuitous route. We treated the
report with so much indifference as to satisfy their
suspicious minds.

The next morning, the men who had agreed to
carry our bedding refused to fulfil their contract
unless paid double wages ; so we started with our own
servants, but were quickly followed by the Ida’an,
who eagerly shouldered the heaviest burdens. They
were only trying how far they could succeed in im-
posing on us. The Fop also took a load. That name
was affixed to him, on our first visit, from his great
attention to dress, and the favour shown him by all
the young girls, more due to his evident good -nature
than to his good looks ; lie was, however, an active,
powerful man. When we were here in April, he had
just married a fine girl, named Sugan, and used
always, when the crowd surrounded us, to be seen
standing behind her with his arms folded round her
neck. lie was better mannered than any of his
neighbours, and never annoyed us by begging. He
it was who told us he had been to the lake, and
followed the route through Tulian, Inserban and Bar-
bar. His name is Kama. I mention him, as lie
might prove useful as a guide to the lake, should
any traveller be induced to try that journey.

We followed the same path we used on the former
occasion — across the Pinokok valley, and up the
buttress, till we reached Marei Parei, and encamped
on a rocky, dry spot near the place where the

21—2

324

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALL’.

Nepenthes Rajah were found in the greatest abun-
dance.

Knowing that the cold would be severely felt by
our followers, accustomed all their lives to the heat of
the plains, we tried to induce them to take precautions,
but without avail. We, however, took care of our-
selves by cutting enough brushwood to raise our bed-
ding a foot above the damp ground, to till up the end
of our tent and cover it over with bushes, grass, and
reeds, to prevent the cold piercing through. Around
us were thickets of magnolias, hut without flowers,
and among the other shrubs which grew near was
one which we selected for our beds, as when bruised
it emitted a myrtle-like fragrance.

The temperature was very pleasant in the after-
noon, being 75° in the shade ; hut this was partly
caused by the refraction from the rocky soil around.
In the water the thermometer marked 66’5°, but at
sunset it fell to 60° in our tent, and the men, too
late, began to repent of their idleness.

The vegetation around is very stunted, though
above the trees are large-sized : the former is due to
the stony nature of the soil and the great amount
of iron that renders all compass hearings untrust-
worthy. It is, I believe, decomposed serpentine,
containing a large quantity of peroxide of iron.
Above the vegetation the mountain presents nothing
hut rough precipices impossible to ascend. On their
face we observed broad white patches and white lines
running across, similar to those I observed on the
summit during my former ascent. On the top of the
north-west peak we noticed a heap of stones, which,
through a good telescope, looked like a cairn, and

BOTANICAL DESCRIPTIONS.

325

we were full of conjectures as to the possibility of a
traveller in ancient times having made the ascent.
This apparent cairn was afterwards explained by
similar heaps of granite piled up as if by man, hut
being simply the harder portions of the rock remain-
ing when the rest had crumbled away.

At sunrise the thermometer marked 55°, and the
air felt very chilly ; so, after a cup of chocolate to
warm our blood, we started to explore the slopes
above us.

Dr. Hooker having kindly allowed me to make use
of his descriptions of the wonderful pitcher-plants
discovered during these expeditions, I shall avail
myself of the permission, and introduce here his
notes on the Bornean species of Nepenthes , as well
as the botanical account of the ones found on the
Marei Parei spur.

The largest was the Nepenthes Rajah. The
plates, copied from those published in the Linnean
Transactions , merely give the form, as it has been
found necessary to reduce them to the size of the
volume.

“ The want of any important characters in the
flowers and fruit of Nepenthes is a very remarkable
feature of these plants. The leaves differ con-
siderably in insertion, and in being more or less
petioled. The pitchers of most, when young, are
shorter, and provided with two ciliated wings in
front ; more mature plants bear longer pitchers, with
the wings reduced to thickened lines. The glandular
portion of the pitcher remains more constant than
any other, and the difference between the form of old
and young pitchers is often chiefly confined to the

326

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

further development of the superior glandular por-
tion into a neck or tube.”*

“ Ascidia magna, ore mediocri, annulo latissime
e.vplanato , dense lamellato v. costato.

“ Nepenthes Rajah, II. f. (Frutex, 4-pedalis, Low).
Foliis maximis 2-pedalibus, oblongo-lanceolatis petiolo
costaque crassissimis, ascidiis giganteis (cum operculo
1 -2-pedalibus) ampullaceis ore contracto, stipite folio
peltatim affixo, annulo maximo lato everso crebre
lamellato, operculo amplissimo ovato-cordato, ascidium
totum sequante. — ( Tab . LXXII).

“ Hob. — Borneo, north coast, on Kina Balu, alt.
5,000 feet (Low). This wonderful plant is certainly
one of the most striking vegetable productions
hitherto discovered, and, in this respect, is worthy of
taking place side by side with the Rafflesia Arnoldii.
It hence bears the title of my friend Rajah Brooke,
of whose services, in its native place, it may be com-
memorative among botanists. ... I have only
two specimens of leaves and pitchers, both quite
similar, but one twice as large as the other. Of
these, the leaf of the larger is 18 inches long,
exclusive of the petioles, which is as thick as the
thumb and 7-8 broad, very coriaceous and glabrous,
with indistinct nerves. The stipes of the pitcher
is given off below the apex of the leaf, is 20 inches
long, and as thick as the finger. The broad

ampullaccous pitcher is 6 inches in diameter, and
12 long : it has two fimbriated wings in front,
is covered with long rusty hairs above, is wholly
studded with glands within, and the broad annulus

* The Transactions of the Linnean Society of London. Yol. XXII.,
Part IV., p. 419.

NEPENTHES EDWARDSIANA.

327

is everted, and 1-1^ inch in diameter. Operculum
shortly stipitate, 10 inches long and 8 broad.

“ The inflorescence is hardly in proportion. Male
raceme, 30 inches long, of which 20 are occupied
by the flowers ; upper part and flowers clothed
with short rusty pubescence. Peduncles slender,
simple or bifid. Fruiting raceme stout. Peduncles
Id inches long, often bifid. Capsule, f inch long,
d broad, rather turgid, densely covered with rusty
tomentum.”*

The pitchers, as I have before observed, rest on
the ground in a circle, and the young plants have
cups of the same form as those of the old ones.
This morning, while the men were cooking their rice,
as we sat before the tent enjoying our chocolate,
observing one of our followers carrying water in a
splendid specimen of the Nepenthes Rajah , we desired
him to bring it to us, and found that it held
exactly four pint bottles. It was 19 inches in
circumference. We afterwards saw others apparently
much larger, and Mr. Low, while wandering in
search of flowers, came upon one in which was a
drowned rat.

As we ascended, we left the brushwood and entered
a tangled jungle, but few of the trees were large, and
the spur of the mountain became very narrow, some-
times not much wider than the path, and greatly
encumbered at one part by the twining stems of the
Nepenthes Edwardsiana. This handsome plant was
not, however, much diffused along the spur, but con-
fined to a space about a quarter of a mile in length,

* The Transactions of the Linnean Socictj of London. Yol. XXII.,
Part IV., p. 421.

32S

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BAKU.

and grew upon the trees around, with its fine pitchers
hanging from all the lower boughs. We measured
one plant and it was twenty feet in length ; it was
quite smooth, and the leaves were of a very acute
shape at hotli ends. It is a long, cylindrical, finely-
frilled pitcher, growing on every leaf ; one we picked
measured twenty-one inches and a half long, by two
and a half in breadth. They swelled out a little
towards the base, which is bright pea green, the rest
of the cylinder being of a bright brick-red colour.
Its mouth is nearly circular, the column with the
border surrounding the mouth being finelv formed of
thin plates about a sixth of an inch apart, and about
the same in height, and both were of a flesh colour;
the handsome lid is of a circular shape. The dried
specimen forwarded to Dr. Hooker only measured
eighteen inches. The plant is epiphytal, growing
on casuarinas ( species nova). The pitchers of the
young creepers precisely resembled those of the older
ones, except in size.

Whilst examining these, and vainly searching for
their flowers, Mr. Low came upon a small species of
a bright crimson colour ; its pitchers were three
inches long, and one and a half broad at the widest
part, and the mouth wras oblique. Another, but
which may be the same in a more mature state, was
green, with irregular spots of purple, having stems of
the latter colour ; it was a low plant, not reaching
above four feet in height.

A very handsome plant of a trailing habit also
grew on this spur ; it had large hunches of beautiful
flowers of the colour of the brightest of the seedling
scarlet geraniums, and while endeavouring to obtain

EXTENSIVE PROSPECTS.

329

a view to the eastward, my eye fell upon something
of a beautiful white, which proved to be a lovely
orchid. Of these Mr. Low made a great collection ;
I fear, however, it is not a new one.

The following is the botanical description of the
Nepenthes Edwcirdsiana : —

“ Ascidia magnet , ore lamellis latis discifornnbus
annularibus remotis instructo.

“Nepenthes Edwardsiana, Low. MSS. — Foliis
((j" longis) crasse coriaceis longe petiolatis cllipticis,
ascidiis magnis crasse pedunculatis cylindraceis basi
ventricosis 8-1 8" longis, ore lamellis annularibus dis-
tantibus rigidis magnis cristato, collo clongato erccto,
operculo cordato-rotundato, racemo simplici, rachi
pcdicellisquc ferrugineo-tomentosis. {Tab. LXX.)

“ Hab. — Kina Balu, north side; alt. 6,000-8,000
feet {Low).

“ The leaves, ascidia, and pitchers sent by Mr. Low
arc all old, and nearly glabrous ; but the young parts
— rachis, peduncles of the panicle, and the calyx —
are covered with ferruginous tomentum. One of the
pitchers sent is eighteen inches long from the base to
the apex of the erect operculum ; it is two and a half
inches in diameter below the mouth, one and a half
at the narrowest part (about one-third distant from
the base), and the swollen part above the base is
about two inches in diameter. The beautiful annular
discs which surround the mouth are three-quarters of
an inch in diameter.” *

AVe had occasionally very extensive prospects,
and the day being bright and sunny, could obtain

* The Transactions of the Linnean Society of London. Vol. XXII.,
Part IV., p. 120.

330

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

almost an uninterrupted view of the whole coast from
Kimanis to Tampasuk, with glimpses of the river
reaches below, winding among the hills, and flowing-
through the open plains of Tampasuk, Sulaman, and
Tawaran, and beneath our feet were the sources of
the Pchgantaran, which we crossed on our last ex-
pedition. The only interruption was, in fact, the
double peaks of Saduk Saduk, which is about 6,000
feet high ; and as we only ascended 6,200 feet, we
were but beginning to see over them. One side of
that mountain is almost cleared to its summit for rice
plantations, though the produce could not be very re-
paying. Mr. Lobb reached its top, but had, I believe,
no instruments to fix its height. From the north the
two peaks are in a line, it then appears a sharp hill ;
and I should judge from its aspect that it is sand-
stone to the summit.

We carefully examined the noble buttress on which
we were encamped, and were convinced that if ever
the north of Borneo fall into the hands of a Euro-
pean power, no spot could be better suited for
barracks than Marei Parei. The climate is delight-
ful : at sunrise the average was 56°; midday, 75° ;
sunset, 63° ; and this temperature would keep Euro-
pean soldiers in good health : there is water at hand,
and up the western spur a road could be easily made
suited to cattle and horses ; in fact, buffaloes arc now
occasionally driven from Labang Labang to Sayap.

The second day our men were more amenable to
advice, and made great preparations to resist the cold,
as the wind was rising and rain threatening ; but after
a heavy shower, it cleared off, and we passed a very
pleasant night. We found the most sustaining and

INTERCOURSE WITH THE VILLAGERS.

331

warming nourishment on the mountains, was to hoil
or stew a couple of fowls, with a two-pound tin of pre-
served soup. As we scarcely ever rested much during
the day our appetites were keen, and we retired to our
beds very shortly after seven to enjoy an almost unin-
terrupted sleep from eight till daylight.

Having finished collecting the plants of this spur,
we returned to Kiau, and noticed during our walk
that the sources of the Ilobang and Pinokok cut
very deep valleys into the actual mountain, and after
the heavy rain last night, foaming cascades were
visible in these as yet unlit valleys, for the morning
sun had not risen above the mountain tops.

The villagers appeared to be very glad to get us
hack among them, and the girls became friendly and
familiar ; they even approached us and sat at the end
of our mats, and talked, and laughed, and addressed
us little speeches, which were, of course, nearly unin-
telligible, though we were making progress in the
language. They had evidently been very much in-
terested in all our movements ; and as our toilettes
were made in public, they could observe that every
morning we bathed, cleaned our teeth, brushed and
combed our hair, and went through our other ordi-
nary occupations.

To-day they had grown more bold, and were evi-
dently making fun of the scrupulous care we were
bestowing on our persons while the cook was pre-
paring our breakfast. We thought that we would
good-humouredly turn the laugh against them, so we
selected one who had the dirtiest face among them —
and it wras difficult to select where all were dirty —
and asked her to glance at herself in the looking-

332

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BAKU.

glass. She did so, and then passed it round to the
others ; we then asked them which they thought
looked best, cleanliness or dirt : this was received
with a universal giggle.

We had brought with us several dozen cheap
looking-glasses, so we told Iseiom, the daughter of
Li Moung, our host, that if she would go and wash
her face we would give her one. She treated the offer
with scorn, tossed her head, and went into her father’s
room. But, about half an hour afterwards, we saw
her come in to the house and try to mix quietly with
the crowd ; but it was of no use, her companions soon
noticed she had a clean face, and pushed her into the
front to be inspected. She blushingly received her
looking-glass and ran away, amid the laughter of the
crowd of girls. The example had a great effect,
however, and before evening the following girls had
received a looking-glass. I mention their names as
specimens : — Ikara, Beiom, Sugan, Rambeiong,
Iduhgat, Tirandam, Idohg, Sci, and Sineo. Among
the males near were Kadsio, the trouser-maker,
Bintarang, Lakaman, and Banul, who had lent his
kitchen to us.

We spent a couple of days quietly at the village,
waiting the arrival of our party : reports often
reached us that they were not far off’, and at last
they came in, but sadly reduced in numbers. Seven
had deserted, while one had stayed behind to look
after his companion Sahat, who had been stricken
with cholera while passing through Si Nilau. How-
ever, they brought sufficient rice to last us during
the ascent of the mountain, as well as a few condi-
ments for ourselves. We heard, also, to our satis-

MOUNTAIN-RAT AN ARTICLE OI’ FOOD.

333

faction that the chief of Gantisan had seized Ivamis
the negro, and had confined him for theft and
desertion.

All our preparations being completed, we started
for our expedition to the summit of the mountain,
following a path along the side of the valley, which
ran below the houses, and was crossed by miniature
torrents at various places. The ground was all under
cultivation, principally tobacco and kiladis. Being
in admirable walking condition from our regular
exercise, we soon passed the hut where Mr. Low
had rested during my former ascent, and crossing the
stream, found ourselves in freshly-cleared ground,
where crowds of women and children were planting
rice. The ashes from the burning of the trees and
brushwood must assist greatly to fertilize the soil,
otherwise we could scarcely conceive that seed placed
in a little hole driven in the hard-baked around could

produce a crop. It was a burning-hot day, and our
men appeared to suffer severely in passing along
this unsheltered path, so it was a relief to enter
the forest.

We advanced by the same way I followed on the
previous occasion ; it was steep, and but rarely
traversed, except by the rat snarers. The farther
we advanced, the more numerous were the traps, but
during our ascent none were caught. In fact, these
wary animals are seldom taken, except when trying
to escape from the active village curs. We heard
the shouts of the hunters below, and the bark of the
dogs, but we had passed on before they reached the
path. The mountain-rat seems a favourite article of
food among the Kiaus, though they do not cat those

334

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

which frequent the houses. The cdihle animal is
about the size of the grey Norway rat, and is of the
Bandacoot species.

At 4,400 feet elevation we pitched our tents ; and
here Li Moung and Li Maing, who had accompanied
us so far, handed us over to the younger men, headed
by Kama, and returned home. We hired both these
leaders, as we were unwilling to be the cause of a
feud arising in the tribe, and by following this course
wc kept friends with both parties.

We started early next morning, and after three
hours climbing of the sub-spurs, which were occasion-
ally very steep, we reached the ridge of the great
buttress, and the walking became easier. Wc passed
to-day the hut that I had constructed on the former
occasion. As I have before observed, this ridge is
occasionally very narrow, and where it has been
exposed to the full force of the monsoons, the trees
bent over us, so as often to necessitate our crawling
beneath their overhanging trunks ; for those who
carried burdens it was tiresome work, particularly as
the ground and trees were covered with soppy moss,
cold and unpleasant to the touch. Where wc did
not crawl, we had often to advance in a stooping
posture. Occasionally we passed between fine forest
trees, with thickly -growing bamboo beneath them,
but these were only to be found in deep or sheltered
spots. When we joined the first ridge, wc came
upon numerous flowers of a rhododendron scattered
over the surface of the ground, and it was some time
before we could find the plant, but Mr. Low’s quick
eye at last discovered it. It looked gorgeous, being
completely covered with bunches of flowers of a

DOUBLE SUNSET.

335

brilliant scarlet, and in masses of colour, as forty-two
blossoms were counted growing in one of the bunches.

We at last reached a narrow, rocky ridge, covered
with brushwood, but with thousands of plants of the
beautiful Nepenthes Lowii growing among them.
As water was to be had near, at a little marshy spot,
we determined to pitch our tents here, and spend the
evening collecting specimens. Our guides, however,
strongly objected to this, and declared we must reach
the cave to-night : but as this involved a climb of
nearly 3,000 feet more, we declined, disregarding
their threats that they would leave us where we were
and return to their houses. Our coast men appeared
totally unfit for such an exertion, though the cold
weather had an invigorating effect upon ourselves.

There was another great objection to this rapid
ascent : it prevented our seeing anything, or enjoying
the views that this lovely weather promised to afford.
It was true that day the scenery had been obscured by
the blinding columns of smoke rising in every direc-
tion from the burning felled forest, but that objection
might not hold another day. To the eastward, we had
glimpses of high mountains, and of a river running
through a plain.

I have seldom witnessed any of those beautiful
phenomena of which I have read — as double sunsets
• — but that evening we witnessed one. A dark cloud
hung over the horizon, and beneath it we saw a sun,
clear and well-defined, set in vapour: we hurried on our
preparations for the night, for fear darkness should
overtake us, when the true sun, suddenly bursting
from behind the concealing cloud, restored the day.
I never saw men so astonished as were our followers,

33 6

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA DALU.

and \vc were as completely deceived as they were,
though we did not give the same explanation, that
we had fallen among jinn and other supernatural
creatures.

We sent our men on next morning to wait for us
at the cave, while we stayed behind to collect speci-
mens of the Nepenthes Lowii and the Nepenthes
J illosa. The former is, in my opinion, the most
lovely of them all, and its shape is most elegant.
I will give Dr. Hooker’s botanical description of
both.

“ Ascidia magna, curve/, hasi inflate i, medio con-
slricta, dein ampliata , infundibuliforniia; ore maximo,
latissimo, annulo 0.

“ Nepenthes Lowii, II. f. — Caule robusto tcreti,
foliis crasso coriaceis, longc erassc pctiolatis lineari-
oblongis, ascidiis magnis curvis hasi ventricosis medio
valdc constrictis, ore maximo ampliato, annulo O, oper-
culo ohlongo intus dense longc setoso. {Tab. LXXI.)

“ Hab. — Kina Balu ; alt. 6,000-8,000 feet {Low).

“ A noble species, with very remarkable pitchers,
quite unlike those of any other species. They are
curved, 4-10 inches long, swollen at the base,
then much constricted, and suddenly dilating to a
broad, wide, open mouth with glossy shelving inner
walls, and a minute row of low tubercles round the
circumference; they are of a bright pea green, mottled
inside with purple. The leaves closely resemble those
of Edwardsiana and Boschiana in size, form, and
texture, but are more linear-oblong.

“ I have specimens of what are sent as the male
flower and fruit, hut not being attached, I have not
ventured to describe them as such. The male raceme

BOTANICAL DESCRIPTIONS.

337

is eight inches long, dense flowered. Peduncles simple.
Perianth with depressed glands on the inner surface,
externally rufous and pubescent. Column long and
slender. Female inflorescence : a very dense oblong-
panicle ; rachis, peduncles, perianth, and fruit covered
with rusty tomentum. Capsules, two-thirds of an inch
long, one-sixth of an inch broad.” *

The outside colour of the pitchers is a bright
pea-green, the inside dark mahogany ; the lid is
green, while the glandular are mahogany-coloured.
A very elegant claret jug might be made of this
shape.

“ Ascidia magna , ore lamellis latis disciformibus
annularibus remotis instructo.

“ Nepenthes Villosa, II. f. (Hook, Ic. PI. t. 888).
— Ascidia magna turgida late pyriformia coriacea,
5" longa, 3A' lata, alis anticis mediocribus grosse den-
tatis, ore aperto annulo maximo ! lamellis annularibus
distantibus disciformibus rigidis, l'' diam., cristatis
posticis in spinas rigidas ^ " longas, fundum ascidii
spectantibus productis, collo clongato crecto, operculo
orbiculato intus densissime glanduloso dorso basi longe
cornuto. {Tab. LXIX.)

“ Hob. — Borneo ( Lobb ), Kina Balu, alt. 8,000-
9,000 feet {Low).

“ . . . The wdiole inner surface of the pitcher

is glandular, except a very narrow area beneath the
mouth at the back.” *

The pitchers of the young plant resemble the old,
and their colour looks like that of a downy peach skin,
with a great deal of dark crimson in it. The circular

* The Transactions of the Linnean Society of London. Yol. XXII.
Part IV., p. 420.

VOL I.

338

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

annulus Is like flesh-coloured wax, its lid dull green,
with red shading in the centre.

The Nepenthes Villosa continued to skirt our path
for the next two thousand feet ; and among the most
extraordinary shrubs was the heath rhododendron.

At an open space about 7,500 feet above the level
of the sea, we had a fine view of the south and
south-east part of Borneo, which stretches away to the
great river of Kina Batangan. Numerous mountain
ranges and lofty peaks, some estimated as high as
7,000 to 8,000 feet, were clearly visible. Between
us and the mountains bearing south-east by cast, and
apparently eighteen miles off, there was a grassy plain,
perhaps three miles by two, in which were many
villages ; and through this there flowed a rather large
river. We could trace its course as far as the third
spur that springs from the main buttress of Kina
Balu, on which we now stood. There, a line of hills
appeared to obstruct it ; but beyond we could again
trace the course of a stream which may probably he
its source. This river, our guide stated, fell into the
lake of Kina Balu. It runs from south-west to
north-east. With the exception of the plain above
mentioned, and a marsh, whose commencement we
could observe north-east of the plain, all the country
appeared hilly. Most of the land was cleared, and
either under cultivation, or showing the remains of
former farms. We could observe in the second valley
two villages : the first called Tuhan ; the next,
Inserban. At both cotton is stated to he cultivated.
Many more distant villages and detached houses could
he seen to the south-east, whose names our guides
had forgotten.

SUMMIT OF KINA I! ALU.

339

The road to the lake is by the above-mentioned
villages. The names of those beyond are Penusuk,
Tambian, Paka, and Koporingan. These arc either
on the route, or close to the lake.

We sat looking at this extensive view, and enjoy-
ing the refreshing breeze and the bright sun. Ivanni
was in a communicative mood to-day, and we had
a long talk about the great lake. We could clearly
perceive that it was not in the position assigned to it
in all the maps, as the whole country from east-south-
cast to the western coast was distinctly visible, and
the Ida’an expresi#y stated that it was farther to the
north and cast of the little plain I have before noticed.
Its size would, I believe, entirely depend on the
season it was visited, as the heavy rains would cause
it to overflow the country, and probably add the
marsh and plain we saw to its extent, and the native
travellers would naturally give different accounts.

We now continued our ascent to the cave by the
same path I followed before, and found it quite
sufficient for a day’s journey. The cave proved to be
above 9}000 feet above the level of the sea ; and
although we tried by fires and hanging up oiled
cloths before the entrance to keep out the raw night
air, yet the men felt it very cold.

We started early next morning for the summit,
with a clear sky and a brilliant sun, through thickets
of the scarlet and rosy-purple rhododendrons which
extended for nearly a thousand feet above the cave,
and soon reached the granite slopes, which, by the
clinometer, we found to have an angle varying from
35° to 39° at the steepest parts. Leaving Low’s
Gully on the right, where the purple or rather

22—2

310

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA 13 ALU.

blood-coloured rhododendron flourishes, we pushed
on for the terrace lying between the southern and
northern peaks.

As I spent very little of my time in looking for
plants, I reached it some time before my fellow-
traveller, and was surprised to find the great ease with
which we could converse, although more than a
quarter of a mile apart. It really required no effort,
and the air appeared so transparent as to render it
difficult to judge of distances. From Low’s Gully to
the north-western peak does not exceed two miles ;
and we were struck by a remarkable feature in the
granite rocks, which run in a broken line along
the northern face of the summit. It appeared as
if they were lying in strata, which partly accounts
for the angular granite we observed in the streams
below.

When I first reached the terrace the sun was shin-
ing brightly on the landscape below, and my first im-
pulse was to turn to look for that lofty mountain
of which I had obtained a glimpse during my former
ascent, but the southern peak shut in that view, and I
had to content myself with the still extensive prospect.
Looking over the valley of Pinokok, I could distinctly
trace the coast line down even to Labuan, which, though
somewhat hazy, was yet visible, near the great moun-
tains of Brayong and Si Guntang. The Bay of
Kimanis was to be seen in all its distinctness, and,
with Nosong Point, Pulo Tiga, and Papar Head-
land, looked at this distance almost land-locked.
Gaya island was there visible, but the bay was shut
in by its surrounding hills. Mengkabong and Sula-
man waters showed clear, and I could occasion-

NORTII-WESTERN PEAK.

341

ally observe some reaches of the Tawaran glistening
among the fruit groves of the plain. The horizon
was perhaps distant a hundred miles, showing a broad
expanse of ocean. We stood looking at this prospect
with great pleasure ; hut at last, being joined by the
man who carried the barometer, I left Mr. Low to
prepare the instrument, and started for the north-
western peak, from which I hoped to have the most
extensive view to he seen in all Borneo, and to have
the satisfaction of examining that heap of stones which
looked like a cairn from below.

It was easy to get to its base. On the northern side
of it were heaps of broken hut angular granite, which
appeared to have fallen from its sides, leaving a
perpendicular face, a little overhanging at the summit.
The slabs of granite, which peel olf its western and
southern sides, roll on a sharp slope, and must glide
down to fall over the great precipice overlooking the
valley of Pinokok. The heaps I observed to the south
move more slowly onward towards the cliff, as the
incline is less.

I tried to reach the summit of this peak by a
narrow edge of rock abutting from its southern
front ; hut after following it with my face towards it,
and moving sideways with my arms stretched out on
either side, till it narrowed to about eight inches,
I thought it prudent to return ; but at a spot
where I had secure footing, I pitched a stone on the
summit, which wTas about forty feet above the highest
point I reached.

I had scarcely regained the base, when I saw a
thick white cloud suddenly sweep up from the north,
and heavv rain and gusts of wind soon wetted us

342

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

through and chilled us to the bone. I hurried along
the huge natural wall which skirts the northern edge
of the summit, and is the termination of the great
terrace, to join Mr. Low, and then heard that last
night’s rain had wet the leather of Adie’s barometer,
and it would not act. We tried the boiling-water
thermometers, but in this storm of wind, rain, and
hail, though we managed to light the spirit-lamp, we
could not read the number of degrees, the apparatus
appearing defective. We waited for nearly two hours,
hoping it would blow over ; but it only increased in
violence, and enveloped in this rain-cloud, we could
not see fifty yards.

Unwillingly we now attended to the remonstrances
of our shivering followers, and commenced descend-
ing. The wind veered round suddenly to the east,
and drove the sleet and hail into our faces, while
torrents formed in every direction, and rushed over
the smooth surface of the granite. To descend was
a work of danger, as the streams of water crossed
our path in every direction ; and had we lost our
footing while passing them, we should have been
sent gliding down to the precipices. It was bitterly
cold, the thermometer at two p.m. falling to 43°.
As we approached the steeper incline, the velocity
of the running water increased, and in one place, even
Kama appeared at fault, as the granite was as slippery
as glass, being reduced to a fine polish, as it formed
the course down which the rains always ran ; but
at last finding a crevice, into which we could insert the
sides of our feet, we managed to pass the momentarily
swelling torrent. One of our Malays was seized with
fever and ague at this most difficult part of the

ACCIDENTS.

34 3

descent ; but lie behaved manfully, and managed,
by his own exertions, to get down the granite slopes.
My Chinese boy, Ahtan, fell, and rolled over several
times, but escaped with a slight wound, but heavy
bruises. One Malay’s feet slipped from under him,
and he fell heavily on his back, but his head escaped,
as he was carrying on his shoulders a large basket full
of flowers.

During both ascents, I observed the men carefully
examining the crevices of the granite in search of little
pieces of very transparent quartz, which were to be found
there. I picked up, during the former trip, a little of
them, that were greatly prized by the ladies of the
capital, who had them inserted into rings.

After three hours’ hard work, we reached the cave,
in company with our invalids. The poor fever-
stricken Malay looked in a woful plight, but we gave
him immediately ten grains of quinine in a glass of
whiskey, and bv evening the fit was over. We found
many of our men were injured by falls, but not

seriously. Though Mr. Low made a fine collec-
tion of herbaceous and other plants, yet we were

greatly disappointed with the result of our ascent, as
the injury to the barometer was caused by our own
carelessness.

We determined, however, to reasccnd to the

summit next morning ; but on trying the boiling-
water thermometers, they did not act properly, and
varied five degrees : the barometer also continued
useless. We therefore gave up our intention, particu-
larly when we found that all the Ida’an guides were
making up their packets, declaring nothing should
induce them to go through such exposure as they

344

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

suffered yesterday, and as we found many of our men
were ailing, we unwillingly, therefore, commenced
our descent, collecting plants by the way, and spent
the night at the hut I had erected during my first
expedition.

Next day we reached the village of Kiau, and had
a very different kind of settling day from the last.
Lcmoung was civil and obliging, and all appeared
sorry at our leaving- them, and begged us to return
again as soon as possible, promising to take us to the
lake, or wherever we might choose to go.

The girls now- presented a very different appearance
from before: they thronged round us, most of them with
carefully-washed faces, and requested us to remember
their commissions. Some wanted thread and needles,
others looking-glasses and combs. As we did not
intend to re-ascend the mountain, we, in return for
the neat little baskets of tobacco with which they
presented us, made a distribution among them of all
our surplus warm clothing, and their delight was
great ; and Lemoung’s daughter took so great a fancy
to my comb and brush that, though unwilling, I wTas
obliged to part with them.

When we started next morning, crowds of friendly
faces were around, and a troop of girls walked with us
part of the way; and on our leaving them at the crown
of the hill, they insisted upon our repeating the
promise to visit them again. The good impression we
made upon these villagers may be of service to future
travellers. We stopped at Koung for the night, as
many of our followers were ill, or suffering from falls
received on that unlucky day on the summit of Kina
Balu. We made the old chief’s heart glad by pre-

DEATH OF SAIIAT.

345

senting him with one of our tents, and such goods as
we could spare.

A hundred years ago, it was reported that the Ida’an
were in the habit of purchasing Christian slaves of the
pirates, in order to put them to death for the sake of
the heads. If it were ever true, 1 believe it is not so
now, as we never noticed dried skulls in any of their
houses, except at Tamparuli ; and if they had been
given to any such practice, the Bajus, who never
missed an opportunity to malign them, would have
mentioned the subject to us.

As we were anxious to get our large collection
of plants as fast as possible to the vessel, we pushed
on next morning by the direct route to Buhgol and
breakfasted there, and, notwithstanding heavy rain,
continued our journey to Ivalawat.

Next day we reached Si Nilau, to find that poor
Sahat was dead of cholera, and that his companion had
disappeared. We inquired about him, hut could hear
nothing. AVe asked for the rice that they had left
here, hut the owner of the house denied having any ;
though one of our guides discovered hidden away in
a corner all the goods belonging to Sahat and the
missing man. The thief finding himself discovered,
ran into a neighbouring house and began to beat the
alarm signal on a drum, and in a very short time the
neighbouring villagers were seen collecting in arms ;
hut hearing the cause of the disturbance they dis-
persed, saying the English might settle with the old
thief as they pleased. However, on inquiry, finding
our missing follower was safe, wrc merely warned the
villager and continued our journey.

On arriving at Bawang wtc heard the distressing

346

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

intelligence that cholera was in possession of all the
villages. We met processions on the river : old
women, dressed up like the priestesses among the
Land Dayaks of Sarawak, were chanting and beating
gongs, and on the banks of the stream were erected
altars, round which gaily-dressed women were dancing
with a slow, measured step.

We were surprised at the wealth displayed by the
family of the old Datu of Tamparuli. There were
silks, and gold brocade, and a large amount of gold
ornaments. We arrived late, having walked in one
day what had taken us three in our advance to the
mountain.

During the night we were disturbed by the cries of
some of the inmates of our house, three of whom
where suffering from attacks of cholera, and the only
remedy they appeared to apply was water from the
sacred jars, though they endeavoured to drive away
the evil spirits by beating gongs and drums all night.
Three people had died the previous day, but when
we left in the morning the sufferers I have before
mentioned were still alive. We had no medicines,
not even a glass of spirits, to give them.

Next morning we walked over to Pangeran Sirail’s
to breakfast, as our friends at Tamparuli were so
much taken up with the awful visitation which had
come upon them as to he unable to attend to any-
thing else. In fact, though exceedingly hungry after
our hard walking, we could not last night purchase
anything for our dinner, and had to content ourselves
with plain boiled rice. The Malay chief, however,
was verv hospitable, and soon procured us fowls, and
sent off to Pangeran Duroup for canoes to take us

VISIT PANGERAN MADOUD.

347

across the lake. On our arrival at Gantisan we
found the cholera had left it, though not before it
had carried off thirty-seven victims.

Signor Cuarteron came to visit us, and we kept him
to dinner ; but, in the evening, the south-west monsoon
commenced blowing so heavily, that it was impossible
for him to return to the vessel, and this was merely
a commencement of what we had to expect. In the
morning, however, it cleared up a little, and we
landed to visit Pahgeran Madoud. He was erecting
a very substantial-looking wharf, nearly a hundred
yards in length, to enable people to get ashore at all
times of tide, and he intended it partly to give protec-
tion to very small trading prahus during the south-west
monsoon. It was a grand work for a Malay to con-
ceive, and, although not constructed in a way likely
to be very lasting, it was a good commencement.
The Pahgeran had established himself in a very com-
fortable house, and in his audience hall had a large
table and many chairs. He was very curious to hear
everything connected with the great mountain, and
begged, laughingly, for a single seed of the lagundi
fruit, that his youth might be restored to him. We
found Ivamis, the negro, looking very sad in the
stocks, but be got off with a very slight punishment ;
but, as a warning to others, we refused to receive
the deserters on hoard, and let them return in a
native prahu.

We did not attempt to sail, as heavy clouds were
driving across the horizon, promising unsettled
weather ; and, in the afternoon, so heavy a squall
arose, that our anchor could not hold, and wrc began
drifting towards the shore. We hauled in the chain, but

348

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

when it was nearly all on hoard, we were not ten feet
from the coral reefs opposite Gantisan. With extreme
difficulty, on account of the breaking waves, we got
the smaller anchor into our boat, and sent it out fifty
yards ahead, and hauling in that merely saved us
from striking, as it came home as well as the larger
one. For two hours we continued sending out one
anchor after the other, hut it did not keep us clear
of the danger, as during one heavy puff our pinnace
struck the coral, and we thought she would soon go
to pieces ; but this blast was followed by a momentary
lull, during- which we managed to haul out a hundred
yards, and let go both anchors ; and, veering out as
much chain as we could, we felt comparatively safe.
The storm broke on us again with great violence, hut
our anchors held.

For three days this dirty weather continued, blow-
ing steadily from the south-west, and we had some
difficulty in procuring supplies of rice for our men.
In fact, the village had but little in store, as all
communication with the Dusuns had been put a
stop to on account of the cholera. It was, there-
fore, fortunate we had not delayed our expedi-
tion till August, for we certainly would have been
turned hack, as all the paths were now pamali or
interdicted.

On the fifth day, the wind appearing to moderate,
we set sail from Gantisan, intending to pass through
the broad channel, between Gaya and Sapanggar
Islands ; hut, when we opened the sea, the waves
were breaking in white foam, and so heavy a swell
came in that our pinnace could not heat against the
wind : we, therefore, ran into a small harbour on

CURIOUS FISH.

349

the north of Gaya Island, and anchored in thirteen
fathoms. In the evening we landed, hut, finding the
jungle tangled, did not penetrate far; and, leaving
Mr. Low to botanize, I strolled along the beach to
the rocky sandstone point.

I came there upon certain stones which appeared
to me very curious. On the surface of some were
marks, as if huge cups, three feet in diameter, were
let into the rock and then filled up with a different
kind of sandstone. One only did I see which was
detached from the surrounding rock ; it was round,
with an edge two inches thick, raised three inches
above the inner surface.

This little harbour is plentifully supplied with water,
as several small rivulets fall into it from the sur-
rounding high land. We could observe the waves
breaking on the sands and rocks at the mouth of
the Ananam, as the wind drove the sea through the
narrow and dangerous passage between Gaya Island
and the mainland. At night very heavy rain came
on, and the wind moderated.

In the morning, though there was a heavy swell,
the wind was moderate, and many fishing-boats were
seen scattered over the surface of the bay. We
hailed one, and the fishermen coming alongside with
a large number for sale, we purchased all lie had.
Among them were several fish which frequent the
coral rocks ; one was small, slightly streaked with
red, with very prickly fins, which the natives are
careful to chop off before attempting to handle them,
as, if wounded by one, the effect is as if poison had
been injected into the flesh. There arc also many
others, wdiosc fins arc equally to he avoided. '

350

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

Sonic of the fish brought alongside were as beauti-
ful as those celebrated in the Arabian tale, where
“ the fisherman, looking into the lake, saw in it fish
of different colours — white, and red, and blue, and
yellow;” indeed, they could not have been more beau-
tiful than ours. In fact, all that are caught on coral
reefs are remarkable for the great variety of their
colours ; but I must particularly describe one which
bore the palm from all its splendid companions. It
was about ten inches in length, and had for the basis
of its colours an emerald green, with a head of a
lighter shade of the same hue, which was banded
longitudinally with stripes of rosy pink, and lines
of the same beautiful tint were placed at intervals
of an eighth of an inch transversely across its whole
body, the scales on which were very small. The two
pectoral fins were rosy pink in the centre, surrounded
by a broad band of ultramarine. The short dorsal
and ventral fins, which were continued to the tail,
were of the same colours, the pink being inside.
The tail was ultramarine outside, and the centre part
of the fin of gamboge yellow : it had no anal fins.
There was another extremely beautiful one of a pea-
green colour : it appeared to be of -the same genus as
the former.

The one streaked with red, with the poisonous fins,
had firm flesh, and was rather pleasant to the taste ;
hut in general their flavour and quality by no means
equalled the brilliancy of their appearance. We
placed the lovely emerald fish in a bucket of sea-
water, but it soon turned on its back, and showed
unmistakable signs of exhaustion. It seemed a sin
to dine off so beautiful a creature. However, 1

WATERSPOUTS.

351

suffered for it during1 the evening : I thought I was
seized with cholera, and could scarcely get rid of the
pains in the stomach ; but Mr. Low did not feel any
ill effects, so the fish may he harmless.

Next morning, there being a slight land breeze
at early dawn, we stood out to sea, notwithstanding
the heavy swell, as the leaves of our mountain col-
lection were beginning to fade from their long
confinement on board, though we had brought
proper boxes in which to plant them. We soon got
clear of the harbour ; hut no sooner did we begin
to shape our course down the coast, and get to the
leeward of Gaya Island, than the breeze failed us,
and the roll of the China seas appeared to he forcing
us on the rocky point not half a mile off. We
manned our boat, and attempted to tow the pinnace
off shore, but our efforts would have been in vain
had not the ebb tide gradually swept us beyond the
island, and thus restored to us the faint land breeze.
Presently it died away, but we were now beyond
immediate danger ; and though the heavy swell con-
tinued, there were no waves. As the sun was warm
and brilliant, we felt sure that in the afternoon we
should have a fine sea breeze ; so that we were pro-
portionally annoyed when our head man came to tell
us they had forgotten to replenish their casks at
Gaya Island, and were now without water. We sent
the boat away, as it was impossible to foretel how
many days we might be at sea ; but before they
returned, heavy clouds began to show on the western
horizon, threatening bad weather.

I never saw a more singular sight, as the long line
of black cloud gradually gathered above the sea,

352

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALE.

leaving a clear space below it, and waterspouts began
to form. I counted at one time seventeen, either
perfect or commencing. I carefully watched the
whole process : the cloud appears to dip a little, and
the sea below is agitated and covered with foam ;
gradually a pillar begins to descend from on high
with a gyrating motion, and a corresponding pillar
rises from the sea. Sometimes they meet, and the
whole object is completed ; at others, they do not,
and the water falls back into the ocean with great
disturbance. I have watched them trying again and
again to meet : sometimes the wind drives the cloud-
pillar to an acute angle, and prevents the junction ;
at others, vain efforts, as vainly repeated, are made
hy sea and cloud. I have heard so many stories of
danger to ships from these waterspouts that I always
felt rather nervous when passing them in a very small
vessel. Our boat being still away, we took advantage
of the commencement of the sea breeze to run under
one of the islets to the south of Gaya and anchor
there. Between the larger island and the point of
Api Api on the mainland I once attempted to pass,
hut we grounded on a coral reef ; however, there is a
passage, but a difficult one to those accustomed to
the coast.

I am not aware who inserted the names in the
Admiralty charts, but they are often ill spelt, and
incorrectly placed. Loncy Island, south of Gaya, is
gcnerallv called Sinitahan, “ Hold here,” Island,
from the great protection it affords to native prahus
in both monsoons ; and our informants insisted that
the islands marked Bantok, Baral, and llisa, should
be Memanukan, Sulug, and Memutik, and that the

AMONG THE SHOALS.

353

opposite point, called Lutut, or the Knee, should be
Aru. I only mention this, as some of the officers in
Labuan might he requested to furnish the correct
names to the Admiralty, as it is exceedingly incon-
venient to voyagers along the coast to ask for places
by names which are not recognized by the inhabitants.
While speaking of these otherwise admirably correct
charts, I would draw attention to the fact, that the
position of Tanjong Baram, or Baram Point, in the
last published general chart of Borneo, differs about
ten miles from that given in the charts recording the
surveys of Sir Edward Belcher and Commander
Gordon. This requires explanation.

Our boat having joined us, we got under way, and
stood towards Pulo Tiga ; the weather was squally
and the night proved unpleasant, with strong gusts of
wind and heavy rain, but in the morning we found
ourselves opposite the island for which we were steer-
ing. A light land breeze now carried us past Nosong
Point, with its curious detached rocks, but left us in
a calm after we were a few miles from shore.

As usual, the sea breeze sprang up in the after-
noon, but it came from the south-west. As we had
been awake most of the previous night, we were dozing
in the afternoon, when a bustle over our heads startled
us, and we went on deck to see what was the matter.
We found we were among the Pine-tree Shoals, with
a large water-washed rock, not marked in the charts,
within fifty yards of us. To let go the anchor and
take in the sail, to meet a heavy squall from the
westward, was the work of a moment. A heavy
squall in a dangerous position is a thing to be re-
membered : you see advancing upon you -an cnor-

VOL. I.

354

SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.

mous arch of black cloud, with a slightly white
misty sky beneath, called by the Malays the wind’s
eye, and when it breaks upon you with a force
almost sufficient to lift you from your legs and
sweep you into the sea, you feel your own nothing-
ness, and how impotent are most of our efforts to
contend against the elements.

That day it blew heavily, and much depended
whether it were good holding ground, but our prin-
cipal fear was that another water-washed rock might
be astern, on which if our vessel bumped she must go
to pieces. The villagers from the neighbouring coast
saw our danger and thronged to the beach : but wre
paid little attention to them, as we kept our eyes on
two points to watch if the pinnace drifted. The
sea as far as the eye could reach was one sheet of
curling waves, crested with foam, which broke upon
our bows and washed our decks ; but as the wind be-
came stronger, we veered out cable, though cautiously,
as we were uncertain what hidden dangers there might
be astern of us. It was an anxious time, as the squall
lasted two hours without abatement ; but even storms
must have an end, and half an hour before sunset the
wind lessened, as it often does about that time, and
we sent out our boat to sound, and were soon able to
have the pinnace towed clear of the water-washed
rock, and setting sail we stood out to sea in a
north-westerly direction to give us a good offing.
We sat up by turns all that night, and amused
ourselves by watching the hundreds of stars that
fell or shot across the heavens, as is usual in the
month of August ; and I saw a brilliant meteor
of a bluish colour, which appeared in the east, and

THE PLATES.

flashed across the dark sky to disappear almost in
a moment. We reached Labuan by daylight the
following morning-.

I am sorry to say that we did not fulfil our promise
to the Kiaus, to go and explore the lake. I fully
intended doing so during my last visit to Borneo, hut
was prevented by my return home. I had not for-
gotten their commissions, and had provided myself
with a large store of needles and thread, which
were, however, equally prized by the ladies of
Brunei.

I must add a few remarks respecting the plates of
the Nepenthes which appear in this volume ; they are
copied, as I have before observed, from the magnifi-
cent plates published in the fourth part of the Trans-
actions of the Linnean Society of London. It is
impossible to obtain a complete idea of these astonish-
ing pitchers from the plates I have inserted, as I have
been obliged to reduce them to the size of my work;
but I the less regret this, as they have been drawn
the size of life in the Transactions. With regard to
the colouring, I obtained the assistance of Mr. Low,
who first saw the plants, and has studied their appear-
ance and growth ; and many of the apparent contra-
dictions in describing their appearance arise from the
change which takes place in their tints at different

CHAPTER XI.

TIIE PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE
DISTRICTS LYING BETWEEN GAYA BAY AND TIIE
TAMPASUK RIVER ; * WITH A GEOGRAPHICAL
SKETCH OF MALUDU BAY AND THE NORTH-EAST
COAST OF BORNEO.

The Coast Line — The Rivers — The Bays— Gaya Bay — Abai —
Character of Interior Country — Plains — Hills — Kina Balu —
First Ascent by Mr. Low — Description of Summit — The Peaks
— The Northern Ranges — Steep Granite Slopes — The Spurs — ■
The Main Spin* — Interior Country — Distant Mountains — Plain
— Villages — The Lake — Vegetation on Kina Balu — The Rivers
—The Ananam — The Kabatuan — The Mennkabong — The
Tawaran — The Abai — The Tampasuk — Its Interior — Political
Geography — Inhabitants — The Lanuns — The Bajus — Maho-
medans — Appearance — Their Women — Their Houses — Love of
Cockfighting — Fine Breed of Fowls — Other Inhabitants — The
Ida’an — Their Houses — Their Women — Tatooing— Comfortable
House — Method of Government — No Wars— Aborigines Honest
— Exceptions — Agriculture — Ploughing — Remnant of Chinese
Civilization — Tobacco — Cotton — Good Soil — Amount of Popu-
lation— Numerous and Extensive Villages — The Tampasuk —
The Tawaran — Mengkabong — Other Districts — Enumeration —
Manufactures — Lanun Cloths — Trade — Difficult Travelling
— Languages — Geology — Sandstone — Greenstone — Climate
of Kina Balu temperate — Map — Addition — Maludu Bay —

* I have inserted this chapter, though, in fact, it contains but a
summary of the geographical information collected during our two
expeditions to Kina Balu, and some previous coasting voyages. I
necessarily involves repetition, but I hope will prove useful to geo-
graphers who may be desirous to have the subject presented to
them in one view, and it will help to elucidate the accompanying
map. To render it more complete, I have added a geographical
description of Maludu Bay and the north-east coast of Borneo.

THE COAST LINE.

357

Western Point— Western Shore — Mountains — Head of Bay —
Population — Accounts compared — Bengkoka — Minerals —
Eastern Point — Banguey — Difficult Navigation — Small Rivers
and Bays — Paitan — Sugut — Low Coast — Labuk Bay — -High
Land — Benggaya- — Labuk — Sandakan — Story of the Atas
Man — Kina Batangan — Cape Unsang — Tunglui — Population
— The Ida’an — The Mahomedans.

The coast line, as viewed from the sea, presents the
following appearance : Gaya Island, and the shores
of Gaya, and Sapangar Bays are hilly, and this con-
tinues to within a mile of the mouth of the Mengka-
bong ; the land then becomes flat, with the exception
of the Tambalan hill, as far as the mouth of the
Sulaman creek or river. High land then commences,
which continues for a short distance beyond the Abai,
when it again becomes low, and presents the same
appearance for many miles beyond the Tampasuk
river, the coast beino- fringed by Casuarinas.

The mouths of the rivers Ananam, Kabatuan,
Mengkabong, Tawaran, Sulaman, Abai, and Tam-
pasuk are all shallow, and unfit for European vessels ;
the deepest having but nine feet at low water, and
with the exception of the Ananam, Kabatuan, and
Abai, arc much exposed during both monsoons,
and are rendered dangerous by the numerous sand-
banks that lie off their mouths. The Ananam in
Gaya Bay, and the Kabatuan in Sapangar Bay, are
only suited for native craft. The Abai has more
water, and, its mouth being sheltered, small vessels,
at certain times of tide, might enter ; within, the
river deepens to four fathoms, and the surrounding
hills render it a perfectly land-locked harbour.

There arc several bays along this coast which
insure complete shelter for shipping. The finest of

358

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

these harbours is that composed of the two bays Gaya
and Sapangar, which is large enough to afford pro-
tection during both monsoons for every vessel that
trades to the East ; it contains within itself minor
harbours, as one on the north-east of Gaya Island,
which has thirteen fathoms, and is perfectly safe ;
while abundance of fresh water may be obtained on
its western shore. Lokporin, in Sapangar Bay, is
also a secure anchorage. Gantisan, the Malay town
on the north-eastern shore, though good for shipping,
is not so secure for very small craft, as squalls from
the south-west raise rather a heavy sea there. Several
coral reefs jut out from the northern shore, with deep
water on either side of them. This harbour is the
most important in Borneo, from its commanding posi-
tion in the China seas, and from its great security.

Good shelter may also be found in Ambong and
Usukan Bays, but I have not entered them myself.
Ambong is described as running deep into the land,
and surrounded by hills with smooth surfaces and of
gentle ascent ; the alternations of wood and cleared
land affording’ a most beautiful landscane. The bar-
hour of Ambong abounds in beautiful sheltered little
bays, but barred by coral patches, which rise exactly
from the spots where they disturb the utility of these
snug retreats.* The next, Abai, affords excellent
shelter during both monsoons, though open to the
north-west ; it is, however, of inferior importance,
though fresh water may be obtained in small quanti-
ties on the grassy plain at the entrance of the river :
water, however, is rarely absent where the land
is hilly. Wherever the country is low, and occa-
* Voyage of the Samarang, vol. i. p. 190.

PLAINS — IIILLS.

359

sionally elsewhere, there are sandy beaches. The
west end of Gaya Island, Gaya Head, and the points
between Sulaman and Abai, arc rocky ; beyond these
appear broad sandy beaches.

Passing the coast line, the country presents varied
forms ; the hills that surround Gaya harbour arc low,
and cleared at the top, bearing at present a rank
crop of grass ; others have a reddish tint, from the
ferruginous nature of the soil ; the rest arc covered
with jungle. On entering the Kabatuan, the hanks
arc lined with a narrow belt of mangrove, hut the
hills rise immediately at the back, and this character
appears to extend far into the interior both of the
Kabatuan and Mengkabong. From the latter river
to the Sulaman stretches a plain, perhaps seven miles
in width, varied by a few very low hills. The country
changes here, and broken ranges extend to the Abai :
hill and plain are then intermixed ; but, as soon as
we approach the Tampasuk, the country opens, and,
for Borneo, an extensive plain spreads out, reaching
to the foot of the Maludu mountains. It is, however,
occasionally diversified by low, undulating sandstone
hills.

This flat, level ground is admirably adapted for rice
cultivation, as it is grass land, without any jungle.
On leaving these plains, ranges of hills commence,
rising generally with great abruptness, presenting
steep sides and narrow ridges, and running, for the
most part, in an eastern and western direction.
There are, however, exceptions to the above descrip-
tion : a few of the hills have easy slopes, and many of
the ranges are connected by cross ridges running
north and south, particularly at the heads of valleys

360

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

where the waters of the different tributaries flow in
opposite directions to join their main rivers. The
highest of the hills we measured was under 3,000 feet.
The ranges towards the interior are higher, and at
the back of these arc very lofty mountains, including
Kina Balu,* 13,698 feet (Belcher) ; Saduk Saduk,
about 6,000 feet ; and others, whose names we could
not obtain, estimated at above 7,000 feet. All the
hills in these districts that we examined consisted of
sandstone until we reached Kina Balu.

With regard to the height of that mountain, various
opinions have been entertained ; but until some one
is fortunate enough to reach its summit with a good
barometer, I think we may rest contented with Sir
Edward Belcher’s measurement by trigonometry. lie
makes it 13,698 feet. Mr. Low, on his first ascent,
had a very inferior barometer ; while during the last
two expeditions we were provided with magnificent
barometers by Adic ; hut unfortunate accidents
rendered them useless. However, sufficient observa-
tions were taken to show that the first barometer was
incorrect, and, though both inclined, during our first
joint expedition, to place the height of the mountain
at about 1 1 ,000 feet, the last makes us feel assured
that we underrated the height. I am, therefore,
inclined, from all the observations made, to think that
Sir Edward Belcher’s measurement is correct.

The summit of Kina Balu consists of syenite
granite, which is in many places so jointed as to give
it the appearance of being stratified. About ten peaks
spring from a line running from east to west, while
about half a mile to the southward rises another
* Called Kini by the Dusuns and Ida’atj.

SUMMIT OF KINA BALU.

361

detached peak. Between the latter and the western
portion of the former is an open space, like a broad
terrace, with sloping sides, down which huge slabs are
continually gliding. The southern peak presents
a very different aspect, according to the point from
which we view it: from the terrace, it looks sharp,
not above a yard in breadth ; while from the east
and west it seems quite rounded. This renders
it comparatively easy of ascent. On three sides it is
"•perpendicular, while, on the south, it presents no
material difficulty. Without careful barometrical
observations it will be impossible to fix on the
highest peak. From several views, the southern, the
summit of which I gained during the first trip,
appeared as high as the others, while from the terrace
both cast and west appeared rather higher. The
west has a rounded appearance ; hut we failed to
discover a wav of ascending to its summit. I reached
within perhaps forty feet, when it presented only per-
pendicular sides. It is gradually giving way before
atmospheric influences, its northern base being covered
with huge angular stones that have fallen ; the
summit is still overhanging, and much of it appar-
ently ready to topple over. Between the western and
eastern peaks, on the edge of the cliffs which over-
look deep chasms below, is a sort of wall, principally
of huge granite rocks, some so perched on the others
that at first sight it appears the work of man — •
geologically explained, I suppose, by the wearing
away of the softer portions of the rock around. Some
of the peaks present the appearance of a thumb, while
others are massive, as those that rise on either side of
the spot where Mr. Low, in 1851, left a bottle.

262

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

The summit is above two miles in length ; and I
observed that, in descending to its 1ST. W. and E. spurs,
the rocks assume a perfectly serrated appearance.
Kina Balu extends a long distance towards the N.E.
or E.N.E., its height varying perhaps from 10,000 to
11,000 feet: hut partially divided from the parent
mountain by a deep chasm. From the top, we did
not sec this portion of the mountain ; in fact, the
mist generally obscured the view, leaving hut patches
visible. The summit of the mountain, as I have
before observed, consists of syenite granite ; hut every
here and there it is crossed by belts of a white rock.
For about 3,000 feet below the peaks there is but
little vegetation, and the face of granite sweeps steeply
up at an angle of 3 7b degrees. In the gullies, and in
other sheltered spots, are thickets of flowering shrubs,
principally of rhododendrons — a few even extending
to the base of the peaks, particularly in the “ bottle
gully.”

From what we observed, the summit of the moun-
tain can only he reached by the way we followed —
I mean that portion above 9>000 feet. To that
spot there are said to be two paths. Kina Balu
throws out, on every side, great shoulders, or spurs,
which have also their sub-spurs. The principal arc
the N.W., very steep ; the W.N.W., which sub-
divides. On the western face of the mountain there
arc but minor spurs, which leave 5,000 feet of
precipice above them. From the southward, two
huge spurs extend : on one is the village of Kiau.
It springs from the left of the southern face, and
running S.W., turns to west and by north, and
subdivides. The next spur that springs from the

DISTANT MOUNTAINS.

S63

eastern portion of the southern face is, in every
respect, the most important. It may he called, for
the sake of distinction, the main spur. Those to
the left we could not observe fully, as we then only
saw them from above, but from the north-east coast
they appeared to slope very gradually. The main
spur runs at first to the S.W. for about five miles ; it
then follows almost a S.S.W. direction for about
twenty miles, throwing off, on either side, many sub-
spurs. A glance at the map will best explain my
meaning. This is the range that is observed from
the sea, and gave the notion of a back-hone to
Borneo ; but beyond these twenty-five miles it does
not appear to extend. In fact, mountain ranges,
running to the east and west, are distinctly visible
— the first, at not a greater distance than thirty-five
or thirty-six miles, appears to cross close to the
end of the main spur. If we were disappointed
by not obtaining complete views from the summit,
we were partially repaid by the clear view we had of
the country lying to the S. and S.E. of Kina Balu.
We were at an elevation of between 7,000 and 8,000
feet on the main spur, and observed numerous moun-
tain ranges whose bearings I will give.

High peaked mountains .

S- h E

. 8,000ft..,

..30 miles distanci

S.E. by E.

. 7,000ft...

..18

S.E.byE.fE

7,oooit...

..18

A range :

: highest peak .

. 8,000 ft...

,.25

S.S.W.

—

A range

: eastern end of'

a long
ning E

table range run- (
1. by N. and'W. |

> S.S.E

—

by S.
A peak..

)

S.E. 2 E. ..

very -distant.

A long range (peak) ...

S.E

—

3G4 PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

The latter is stated to be in the Kina Batangan
country. The distances and heights are estimated.

Between us and the mountains, bearing S.E. by
E. eighteen miles, there was a grassy plain, perhaps
three miles by two, on which were many villages,
and through this there flowed a fair-sized river. We
could trace its course as far as the third spur that
springs from the main one ; then a line of hills
appeared to obstruct it ; but beyond we could again
trace the course of a stream, which is probably its
source. This river, it was stated by the people of the
country, flows into the lake of Kina Balu. It runs
from the S. W. to the N.E. With the exception of
the plain above-mentioned and a marsh, whose com-
mencement we could observe north-east of the plain,
all the country appeared hilly, and most of the land
was cleared, and either under cultivation, or showed
the remains of former plantations. We could observe
in the second valley two villages — the first called
Tuhan, the next Inserban, and at both cotton is said
to be cultivated. Many villages and detached houses
were also observed, whose names our guides had for-
gotten. The road to the lake is by the two above-
mentioned villages, while the names of those beyond are
Penusuk, Tamilian, Paka, and Koporingan — these are
stated to be on the route, or close to the lake. A few
words concerning this mythic sheet of water, as it has
generally been considered : that it exists to the cast
of the mountain appears from inquiry to be almost
certain. Its size it is unnecessary to estimate, though
our informants stated that, standing on one bank,
it was not possible to sec the opposite one.
It cannot, however, be of the great size marked

VEGETATION OF KINA BALU.

365

ill the old maps, or in the situation assigned
to it, as the whole country, from E.S.E. to the
western coast, was distinctly visible, and the Ida’an
expressly stated that it was farther to the north and
east of the plain I have before noticed. Mr. Low
made many inquiries during our first trip, and we
jointly questioned the Ida’an, on many occasions dur-
ing our long stay at the Iviau village, and they spoke
of it as a certainty, many affirming that they them-
selves had been on trading expeditions to it. I may
add that Mr. Dc Crespigny, who lived some time at
Maludu Bay, heard that the lake was to the south of
Kina Balu, where it certainly is not. Peterman’s map
is entirely incorrect as to the position of the lake.

I must now make a few remarks on the vegetation
which covered the mountain. Cultivation extends, in
a few places, to the height of 3,500 feet, but beyond
that there is a fine jungle, on the main spur, to the
height of 6,000 feet ; it then begins to degene-
rate, and in the exposed portion of the ridge the
trees are bent across the path, inferior in size and
covered with moss. But above this height, in shel-
tered spots, the trees again increase in size ; beyond
7,000 feet, however, there arc few' fine trees, the
vegetation changing its character, most of it consist-
ing of flowering shrubs, varying in height from ten to
twenty feet. The trees, however, on the sides of the
spurs continued of a comparatively large size until we
had passed 9,000 feet; at 10,000 feet the shrubbery
became very straggling, and above that it was only
scattered among the granite rocks. On the W.N.W.
spur, called the Marci Parei, the vegetation even at
4,500 feet was exceedingly stunted in many places ;

366

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

while above, in equally exposed situations, the jungle
was of fair size : probably, the nature of the soil may
account for it, that of the Marei Parei district being
formed of decomposed serpentine, containing very much
peroxide of iron. Kina Balu appears to be the seat
of the pitcher-plant, Mr. Low having made a col-
lection of extraordinary-shaped ones — perhaps the
most beautiful in the world.

At the risk of repetition, I will make a few
observations on each of the rivers which drain
these districts. I have already remarked that the
shallowness of their mouths renders them unfit
for European commerce ; in fact, the fresh-water
streams soon become mere mountain torrents. The
Ananam I have not ascended ; the Kabatuan is
apparently but a collection of salt-water creeks, with
a few fresh-water rivulets. The former town of
Menggatal was situated about three miles up it, and
only at flood tide would it float a frigate’s barge.
Near the town the banks were grassy, and many
cocoa-nuts were grown in the neighbourhoood. The
Mengkabong, also, can scarcely be called a river ; it is
rather a large salt-water lake with numerous islands,
some containing hills of several hundred feet in height ;
it is very shallow, many portions of it being dry at
low tides, while others have but a few inches of water.
It appears to be filling up fast, and, perhaps, affords
a clue to the cause of the formation of the plains that
extend beyond, which all appear to be composed of
alluvial deposits. Many fresh-water rivulets drain
the neighbouring hills, and pour their waters into
this creek, but it is always salt; it extends, perhaps,
five or six miles in a straight line from the shore.

THE TAWARAN.

367

The Sulaman I have not entered, but I have seen it
from the hills on many occasions ; it presents the
appearance of a lake, and is reported as a salt-water
creek. We could observe, by the rivulets that drained
into the Tawaran, that the Sulaman has no interior,
but it has a depth of twelve feet at its entrance.
The Tawaran, on the contrary, is a fresh-water river
even to its mouth, the flood-tides making hut a slight
impression on it. Large native prahus can safely
ascend it for six miles ; after that it depends on the
state of the weather, rising and falling very rapidly
as it is influenced by the rains. The banks of the
river as far as Bawang village are flat : there the hills
commence ; and three miles beyond the Tawaran
divides into two branches ; one coining from the
south, the other from the E.S.E. They immediately
degenerate into mountain torrents, and are not to he
used by boats, but at some risk produce is occasionally
brought down on rafts. Every range of hills affords
the parent stream a rivulet, but the Tawaran does
not penetrate far into the country ; its sources are
in the main spur of Kina Balu ; the east branch
rising between the second and third sub-spur, on the
west side of the main spur ; the southern branch
appears very small. On both occasions I passed
the Tawaran, it was of a dirty yellow colour, being
filled with the detritus of the neighbouring hills.
Land slips are very common, , which afford a con-
siderable amount of matter for the torrents to carry
seawards. The Tawaran is subject to very sudden
inundations, the waters occasionally reaching the
houses at the village of Bungol, though fifty feet
above the stream. There is no foundation for Dal-

368

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

rymple’s story, which has been often repeated, of the
Tawaran rising in the lake ; it evidently springs from
the main spur of Kina Balu.

The Abai is a salt-water creek, but preserving
more the appearance of a river ; much of both banks
are mangrove until we approach the houses. Its
depth varies : on the bar it is but one fathom, while
inside it deepens to four, and it has a channel to the
villages of about two fathoms. It is a favourite
anchorage for native prahus, being admirably adapted
for them. Two small rivulets join the Abai ; the
Gading, and the Paka Paka, both inhabited by the
Ida’an.

The Tampasuk is essentially a fresh-water river,
very similar to the Tawaran, of no importance to Euro-
pean ships, except that in wet seasons its waters run
unmixed half a mile out to sea. It differs from the
Tawaran, in having occasionally immense granite
boulders in the stream ; while the latter drains only
a sandstone country ; but, like the Tawaran, it
divides into two branches ; the eastern one flows
from the northern portion of Kina Balu. We
could observe its direction for above ten miles, as it
ran through the low land, and its course was E.S.E.
from the junction. The Pengantaran, that drains a
portion of the north-west of Kina Balu, bringing
down immense quantities of blocks of serpentine, is
the only other stream worth noticing. The natives
seldom make use of the Tampasuk beyond the spot
where the river divides, though above it rafts are occa-
sionally used ; but it evidently is not a general practice,
as the river is filled with fish traps, which require the
stream to be dammed across with loose stone walls.

INTERIOR OF THE TAMPASUK.

3G9

The hills do not press closely to the river’s hanks ;
if they do so on one side, the other is certain to have
a strip of low land, along which the path is carried ;
in fact, from the sea to Koung village there is hut
one steep hill to cross. Sometimes there are small
plains, that skirt the banks ; at others, gently sloping
fields. The steep hills commence a few miles below
Koung, on the left bank, and continue, with few
exceptions, to the base of Kina Balu. The village of
Labang Labang, on a spur of Saduk Saduk, has an
easy slope from Koung, while towards the great
mountain it is very steep. Near Labang Labang the
river divides and assumes different names : the prin-
cipal branch is called the Kalupis ; the other, the
Dahombang, or Hobang, and this receives the Kini
Taki and the Pinokok. Between the Hobang and
Pinokok streams is a sort of table-land, about a
couple of miles across, by perhaps four in length ; it
is not absolutely flat, hut the ground swells very
gently. The Kalupis has its source at the very sum-
mit of the hill, and we could trace its course from the
time it was but an inch deep, till collecting all the
drainage of the top, it dashed past our resting-place
(at 9>000 feet) a fair-sized mountain torrent. About
1,000 feet below, at the head of the Kalupis valley,
it throws itself over the rocks, forming a fine cascade
of perhaps 1,500 feet in height.

I may notice that off the coast between Gaya Bay
and the western point of Maludu Bay there is often a
very heavy ground swell, and the rollers occasionally
are so dangerous as to prevent vessels attempting to
communicate with the shallow rivers. I was once
very anxious to visit the Pandasan, but -when we

VOL. I.

370 PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

arrived off its mouth, the rollers looked so dangerous,
that the captain of the steamer decided it would he
unsafe for the ship’s boats to venture in, and I scarcely
regretted his determination. The ground swell was so
great, that it was almost impossible to stand on deck.

Having noticed the principal features connected
with the physical geography, I will add a few notes
on what Mr. Hamilton correctly calls political gco-
graphy.

The population of these districts consists princi-
pally of three classes — the Lanun, the Baju, and the
Ida’an or Dusun.

The Lanuns were formerly numerous, having popu-
lous settlements on the Tawaran and the Tampasuk,
as well as on the Pandasan and Layer Layer farther
west. They originally came from the large island of
Magindanau, which is considered as the most southern
island of the Philippine group. They have formed
settlements on various points as convenient piratical
stations, particularly on the east coast at Tungku and
other places.

As I have elsewhere observed, not only did they
pirate by sea, hut they created an unappeasable feud
with the Ida’an, by stealing their children. No
race in the Archipelago equals the Lanun in
courage ; the Ida’an therefore considering it useless
to make regular attacks, hung about the villages,
and by destroying small parties, forced the Lanuns
to leave Tawaran, who then joined their country-
men at Tampasuk. Sir Thomas Cochrane attacked
both Pandasan and Tampasuk, which induced the
most piratical portion to retire to the cast coast.
At present but few remain in Tampasuk ; they are

THE BAJUS.

371

not considered to have more than 150 fighting men;
they are essentially strangers, and unpopular. They
seldom form regular governments, but attach them-
selves to certain chiefs, who are partial to high-sound-
ing titles, particularly those of sultan and rajah. These
chiefs arc independent of each other, and unite only
for defence, or for an extensive expedition. They,
however, are gradually leaving these districts.
Although Mahomedans, their women are not shut
up ; on the contrary, they freely mix with the men,
and even join in public deliberations, and are said
to be tolerably good-looking. The men I have seen
are better featured than the Malays or Bajus. Our
slight knowledge of the Lanuns partly arises from the
jealousy of the Bornean Government, which used to
employ all its influence to prevent their frequenting
Labuan in order to trade. This partly arose from
a desire to prevent the development of our colony,
and partly from an absurd idea that they could thus
monopolize their trade ; hut the Lanuns, though often
deterred from visiting our settlement, seldom cared to
meet the Bornean nobles.

The Bajus are scattered along the coast, their prin-
cipal settlements being at Mcngkabong and Tam-
pasuk. At Mcngkabong they appear numerous, and
perhaps could muster 1,000 fighting men; at Tam-
pasuk, they estimate their own number at 600 ; at
Bandasan, 400 ; at Abai, Sulaman, and Ambong,
there arc a few. Their origin is involved in
obscurity : they are evidently strangers. They self-
style themselves Orang Sama, or Sama men.
They principally occupy themselves with fishing,
manufacturing salt, and with petty trade. Some

24—2

3 7-2

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

breed cows, horses, and goats, while a few plant rice,
and have small gardens.

They profess the Mahomedan religion, and keep
the fast with some strictness ; though, like the
Malays, are probably but little acquainted with its
tenets. The Bajus are not a handsome race — they
have generally pinched-up, small faces, low fore-
heads, but bright eyes. The men are short and
slight, but very active ; the women have a similar
appearance to the men, and are slighter than the
Malay. They wear their hair tied in a knot on the
fore part of the crown of the head, which is very unbe-
coming. The women appeared to have greater liberty
than among the Malays, and came and sat near us
and conversed. We saw many men that differed totally
from the above description ; but on inquiry, we found
they were of mixed breed: one, Baju, Lanun, Malay,
and Chinese ; the next, Baju, Sulu, Lanun, and Malay.
In fact, many intermarry, which renders it difficult to
give a particular type for one race. The Bajus
of Tampasuk nominally acknowledge a Datu as their
chief, who receives his authority from Brunei ; but
they never pay taxes to the supreme Government, and
seldom send even a present. They are individually
very independent, and render no obedience to their
chief, unless it suits their own convenience. They
arc, therefore, disunited, and unable to make head
against the few Lanuns, with whom they have con-
tinual quarrels. Every man goes armed, and seldom
walks. If he cannot procure a pony, he rides a cow or
a buffalo, the latter generally carrying double. Their
arms consist of a spear, shield, and sword. Their
houses arc similar to those of the Malays, being built

LOVE OF COCK-FIGHTING.

373

on posts, sometimes in the water, sometimes on the dry
land. In Mengkabong, they are all on the water, and
arc very poor specimens of leaf-huts. The Tampasuk
not affording water accommodation, the houses arc
built on shore. The only good one was the Data’s,
which consisted of a planked house of two stories ; the
lower, occupied by the married portion of the family,
consisted of one large room, with broad enclosed
verandahs, occupied by the chief, his wife, and his
followers, while the upper was reserved for the young
unmarried girls and children. Of furniture there is
little — mats, boxes, cooking utensils, and bed places
being the principal. In these countries there are no
public buildings, no offices, jails, or hospitals, or even
a fort or stockade ; and the houses being built of but
temporary materials, there are no ancient buildings of
any description. The Bajus arc very fond of cock-
fighting, and in order to indulge in this sport with
greater satisfaction, carefully rear a very fine breed
of fowls, which are famous along the coast. I have
seen some of the cocks as large as the Cochin Chinese.
It is probable they are descended from those brought
by the early immigrants from China, as they no way
resemble the ordinary Bornean breed found in every
Malay and Dayak village. They fatten readily, and
the hens bring up fine broods.

Mixed with the Bajus are a few Borneans ; in
Gantisan they form the bulk of the village; in Meng-
kabong they are not numerous ; while in the northern
districts there arc few, if any. Of strangers, an occa-
sional Indian, African, or Chinese may he seen, but
they are petty traders, who return to Labuan after a
short residence.

3/4

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

The principal inhabitants of these districts consist
of the Ida’an or Dusun, the aboriginal population.*
They arc essentially the same in appearance as the
Dayakj the Kayan, the Murut, and the Bisaya ; their
houses, dress, and manners are very similar, modified,
of course, by circumstances. In the Kabatuan,
Mengkabong, Sulaman, and Abai are some tribes of
Ida’an, hut I have not visited their villages ; I shall,
therefore, confine myself to those I observed on the
Tawaran and Tampasuk.

On the banks of the Tawaran, where it flows
through the plain, are many villages of Ida’an, which
are often completely hidden by groves of fruit-trees.
These men have a civilized appearance, wearing
jackets and trousers. As you advance into the interior,
these gradually lessen, clothes being seen only on a
few, as at Kiau, near Kina Balu ; beyond, they arc said
to use the hark of trees. Some of the tribes in the
Tawaran have followed the Malay fashion of living in
small houses suitable for a single family ; while others
occupy the usual long house, with the broad verandah,
and separate rooms only for the families. The house
in which we lodged, at Ginambur on the Tampasuk,
was the best I have ever seen among the aborigines.
It was hoarded with finely-worked planks ; the doors
strong and excellently made, each also having a small
opening for the dogs to go in and out ; the flooring
of bamboos, beaten out, was very neat and free from
all dirt, which I have never before noticed in a Dayak
house, where the dogs render everything filthy. The
Ginambur Ida’an are good specimens of the abori-

* Ida’an is the name given them by the Bajus, Dusun by the
Borneans,

METHOD OF GOVERNMENT.

3/5

gincs ; they are free from disease, and are clear-
skinned ; they have good-tempered countenances.
None of the women are good-looking ; still they are
not ugly. All the girls and young women wear a
piece of cloth to conceal their bosoms : it was upheld
by strips of coloured rattans : their petticoats were
also longer than usual, and the young girls had
the front of the head shaved, like Chinese girls. I
did not notice that any of the men of that village
were tatooed, but in our walk we had met parties
of men from the interior who were so : a tatooed
band, two inches broad, stretched in an arc from each
shoulder, meeting on their stomachs, then turning
off to their hips, and some of them had a tatooed
band extending from the shoulder to the hand.
Many of their villages are extensive, as Ivoung,
which is large, scattered on a grassy plain, with a
portion on the hill above. It is a very pretty spot,
the greensward stretching on either side of the
river’s bank, where their buffaloes and cattle graze.
This tribe has the appearance of being rich ; they
possess abundance of cattle, pigs, fowls, rice, and
vegetables, while the river affords them fish. Kiau
is also an extensive village, but the houses and the
people are very dirty.

None of these Ida’an pay any tribute, though many
chiefs on the coast call them their people ; but it is
merely nominal, no one daring to oppress them. Each
village is a separate government, and almost each house
independent. They have no established chiefs, but follow
the councils of the old men to whom they are related.
They have no regular wars, which would induce
them to unite more closely ; their feuds are but petty

376

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGPAPIIY.

quarrels, and in but one house did I observe heads,
and that was at the village of Tamparuli, in the
Tawaran plain. The very fact of troops of girls
working in the fields without male protection would
prove the security that exists, though every male
always walks armed. We had no opportunity of
observing any of their ceremonies, and it is very
unsafe to trust to the information of interpreters.

The aborigines, in general, are so honest that little
notice is taken of this good quality ; however, to our
surprise, we found that these Ida’ an were not to be
trusted. We were warned by the Bajus to take care
of our things, but we felt no distrust. However, at
Kiau they proved their thievish qualities, which, how-
ever, we frightened out of them, as during our second
residence we lost nothing there. At the village of
Nilu one made an attempt, which we checked.

The Ida’an are essentially agriculturists, and raise
rice, sweet potatoes, the kiladi ( Arum — an esculent
root), yams, Indian corn, sugar-cane, tobacco, and
cotton. The sugar-cane is only raised for eating in
its natural state, while the cotton is confined to cer-
tain districts.

I first saw the natives ploughing in the Tampasuk;
their plough is very simple, and is constructed en-
tirely of wood; it serves rather to scratch the land
than really to turn it over. The plough was drawn
by a buffalo, and its action was the same as if a
pointed stick had been dragged through the land to
the depth of about four inches. After ploughing,
they use a rough harrow. In the Tawaran they
ploughed better, the earth being partially turned
over to tbc depth of about six inches. The Ida’an

AGRICULTURE.

3 77

have divided the land into square fields with narrow
hanks between them, and each division being as much
private property as English land, is considered very
valuable, and the banks are made to keep in the water.
Their crops are said to be very plentiful. Simple as
this agriculture is, it is superior to anything that exists
south of Brunei, and it would be curious if we could
investigate the causes that have rendered this small
portion of Borneo, between the capital and Maludu
Bay, so superior in agriculture to the rest. I think
it is obviously a remnant of Chinese civilization.
Pepper is not grown north of Gaya Bay, and is con-
fined to the districts between it and the capital.

The Ida’an use a species of sledge made of bam-
boos, and drawn by buffaloes to take their heavy
goods to market. The gardens on the Tawaran
are well kept and very neatly fenced in. On the
hills the plough is not used, the land being too
steep ; and there the agriculture presents nothing
remarkable, beyond the great care displayed in
keeping the crops free from weeds. The tobacco
is well attended to, and these districts supply the
whole coast, none being imported from abroad.
When carefully cured, the flavour is considered as
good, and the cultivation might he easily extended.
Of the cotton I can say little, as I did not find
that any of the tribes through whose country we
passed cultivated it, though they assured me they
purchased their supplies from the villages near the
lake. The Tuhan and Inserban districts produce it,
they said, in considerable quantities ; and I observed
the women, in several places, spinning yarn from the
cotton. The Bajus obtain their supplies from a tribe

378 PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

near Maludu Bay. Among the hills the implements
of agriculture consist of simply a parang chopper and
a hiliong, or native axe, and the ground is, therefore,
no more turned up than what can be effected hy a
pointed stick ; in fact, the steepness of the valley
sides is against a very improved rice cultivation ; it is
better adapted for coffee. Mr. Low, who has much
experience, pronounces the soil, a rich orange-coloured
loam, to he superior to that of Ceylon, and, Kina
Balu being hut twenty-five miles from the sea-coast,
there are great advantages there. The plains are
alluvial and very fertile.

With regard to the amount of population, all
estimates would he mere guess work ; hut it
must he considerable, as little old forest remains,
except at the summits of lofty hills ; the rest being
either under cultivation or lying fallow with brush-
wood upon it. The tribes on the Tampasuk esti-
mated their own numbers at five thousand fighting-
men ; the Tawaran tribes were equally numerous;
but reducing that estimate, and putting together the
various information received, I should he disposed
to place the entire population of these districts at
above forty thousand people. This is under rather
than over the amount.

The five thousand fighting men who are stated hy
the Ida’an to live in the Tampasuk are, they say, thus
divided : —

The Piasau Ida’an

500

Ginambur

1,000

Bungol...

1,000

Koung ...

500

Kiau

2,000

T otal

5,000

TI1E TAMPASUK.

379

It is impossible to verify this statement, but we may
test it slightly by the observations made. The Piasau
Ida’ an, so named from the extensive groves of cocoa-
nuts that surround their villages ( piasau , a cocoanut),
arc spread over the Tampasuk plain, and I think
I am understating, when I say we noticed above
fifteen villages, and I should have myself placed their
numbers much higher that five hundred. The
Ginambur was a large village, and there was
another of the same Ida’an about a mile off among
the hills, which I passed through on our return.
Bungol is also stated at a thousand men. Our
Malays, who visited it, said that it was very large ;
while the extensive village of Tambatuan, Peiigan-
taran, and Batong, with numerous others among the
hills, have to be included in the Ginambur and
Bungol tribes. Koung is placed at five hundred,
which is not a high estimate, there being about
three hundred families in the village. Kiau is stated
to contain two thousand fighting men ; in this number
are included the village of Pinokok (small), of
Labang Labang (large), of Sayap, which we did not
see. I should be inclined to reduce the Kiaus by
live hundred men, though we understood them to say
that their tribe was numerous beyond the north-
western spur, in the neighbourhood of Sayap. I
think we shall not be over-estimating the population
by placing it at four thousand fighting Ida’an, or
sixteen thousand inhabitants. Rejecting the women
and children, both male and female, and the aged,
one in four may be taken as the combatants. There
were many villages on the eastern branch, some of
Piasaus, others probably of Bungol. The great extent

380

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

of country cleared shows the population to be com-
paratively numerous. I may make this observation,
the result of many years’ experience, that I have
seldom found the statements of the natives with
regard to population above the truth. In Sarawak
and the neighbouring rivers, where we had better
means of ascertaining the correctness of the accounts
rendered, I have always found it necessary to add
a third to the numbers stated.

The Tawaran, perhaps, contains a population nearly
equal to that of the Tampasuk. The villages between
the mouth and Bawang are numerous, but much
concealed by groves of fruit-trees. Tamparuli was
an extensive village, and Bawang of fair size. The
Nilau tribe was scattered over the sides of the hills.
Kalawat was a large village, with perhaps eighty
families. Buhgol contains, perhaps, over one hundred
and fifty families. The Tagoh, Bahgow, and other
villages, were observed on sub-spurs ; and beyond
Buhgol the tribes must be numerous, if we may
judge from the extensive fires made by them to clear
their plantations. On the right-hand branch arc
also many villages, hut we had no opportunity of
examining them. By native accounts, the Tawaran
district is more populous than the Tampasuk.

Of Anaman I know nothing ; of Ivabatuan I
saw little beyond the Malay town ; but I was informed
that the Ida’an were numerous in the interior of this
river, as well as on the hills that surround Mengka-
bong. I have placed them at two thousand, which
is not a high estimate.

Mengkabong contains also an extensive Baju popu-
lation, and in estimating them at six thousand, it is,

POPULATION.

381

I believe, much below the number. The villages arc
numerous, and the chief town large. It is possible
that there are not more than a thousand fighting-men,
but the Bajus are holders of slaves, and there arc
also many strangers settled among them.

Sulaman is placed at a thousand, which includes
both Baju and Ida’an, and may be a little over the
mark ; for it I have nothing but vague native testi-

7 O O

mony.

Abai contains about thirty houses, perhaps not
above two hundred people ; while on the hills are a
few small villages of Ida’an. I have put them at
one hundred and twenty-five fighting-men, or five
hundred in all.

Tampasuk contains about one hundred and fifty
Lanun men, or seven hundred and fifty population.
Bajus, five hundred, or two thousand five hundred
people. I have multiplied the Lanun and Baju
fighting-men by five, as they have many slaves both
male and female.

Gaya Bay contains about three hundred people.

The population of these districts may therefore be

entered as follows : —

Gaya Bay

... 300 Malaya and others

Kabatuan

... 1,000

Ida’an.

Mengkabong ...

O O

Bajus and others.

... 1,000

Ida’an.

Tawaran

... 10,000

Ida’an.

Sulaman

... 1,000

Ida’an and Bajus.

Abai

200

Bajus.

500

Ida’an.

Tampasuk

... 2,500

Bajus.

... 750

Lanuns.

... 1G,000

Ida’an.

Total ...

... 45,250

382

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

The only figures in the above which I think mav
possibly be overstated, arc the Bajus of Tampasuk.
We may fairly reckon the population of the districts
between Gaya Bay and Tampasuk at forty-five
thousand, being quite aware, at the same time, that
it is founded on very loose data ; but it may serve as a
guide to future inquirers.

There arc but trifling manufactures carried on.
The Bajus arc much occupied in preparing salt for the
inland tribes. The only other manufacture that is
worth noticing, is that of cloths from native cotton,
and the most esteemed are those of the Lanuns. The
cloth is generally black, with a few white lines run-
nings through it, formings a check. It is strong- and
more enduring than any other I have seen, and fetches
a high price — varying from 1/. 5s. to 21. 10,9. for
a piece sufficient for a single petticoat. They arc,
however, deteriorating since the introduction of cheap
English yarn, which is superseding the carefully-spun
native. No minerals have as yet been discovered
in these districts beyond the coal in Gaya Island,
though tin has been found to the north of Kina
Balu, near one of the streams flowing into Maludu
Bay.

There is but little trade carried on : the only
articles of export arc tobacco, rice, a little wax, cattle,
and horses, or rather ponies ; the imports consist of
cloths, iron, gongs, and earthenware, with occasionally
a valuable jar. Little beyond tobacco is brought
from the interior, as everything is carried on men’s
shoulders, none of their paths being as yet suited for
loaded beasts.

It is a great drawback to this country, having

LANGUAGES.

383

no navigable rivers, nor on the hills have they good
paths. The latter are easily made, the country
presenting no natural difficulties, while in the plains
very fair roads already exist, fit for their sledges.
The tribes in the interior are at present far beyond
any commerce ; in fact, the people near the lake
have never been visited by the coast population, and
trust to exchanging with the other Ida’an. But
as the taste for cloth is evidently on the increase, it is
possible the trade may improve. Englishmen travel-
ling in that country do great good by spreading a
taste for European manufactures.

AVith respect to the languages spoken, I will at
present make but few remarks. The Lanun and
Baju are entirely different from the language of the
Ida’an. I have made several vocabularies and many
inquiries. At Kiau, we collected above 400 words ; at
Blimbing on the Limbang, 300 ; and whilst in Maludu
Bay, seven years ago, I likewise made a short vocabu-
lary. These three agree so far that I may say that
the Ida’an and Bisaya have two out of three words
in common ; and on further inquiry, I think that the
remaining one-third will gradually dwindle away,
as at present many of the words in my Bisaya
vocabulary arc Malay, for which they have their
native word. The result of my inquiries is that
all the Ida’an speak the same language with slight
local differences. We found all the tribes on the
Tampasuk and Tawaran spoke fluently to each other,
and one of our interpreters, who had never before
visited these countries, but had been accustomed to
the aborigines to the south, conversed freely with
them. The Bisayas live on the rivers in the neigh-

384

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

bourhood of the capital, and their language differs
but little from that of the Ida’an.

The Ida’an contains but few Malay words, these
generally referring to imported articles and domestic
animals. Some are similar to those of the Land
Dayaks of Sarawak.

I will add a few remarks on the geology of these
districts, premising them, however, by the observation
that I am ignorant of the science. Wherever the
rocks protruded through the hills, we noticed they
were decomposing sandstone ; and this character con-
tinued until we reached the great mountain. Occa-
sionally, as in Gaya island, the rocks were of a harder
texture ; and here a Mr. Molley is said to have
been shown a vein of coal. In the districts to the
west and south of the Tampasuk, we noticed no signs
of primitive rock ; while in the Tampasuk river,
huge boulders of granite are met with a little above
Butong, while the debris extends as far as the
junction ; but the rocks of the hills are sandstone,
and this character continues to the hase of the moun-
tain. At Koung, the rocks dipped to the south-west
by south, at an angle of 45°. On the Marci Parci
spur, we could trace the sandstone to the height of
about 4,000 feet, the dip about 80° to the south-west ;
greenstone immediately after protruded, and appeared
to form the chief rock. On the Marei Parei spur, the
compass was so affected by the peroxide of iron which
formed a sort of coating to the rocks, that it would
not act. The main spur consists at first of sand-
stone ; then of shale, almost as hard as stone ; and of
various rocks which I could not recognize ; then of
decomposing granite, above which commences the

CLIMATE OF KINA BALlL

385

massive outline of the summit. We found in our
collection a piece of limestone that was broken off
somewhere near the base of the mountain in the
Kalupis valley.

The country presents the appearance of having
been originally of sedimentary rocks, through which
the granite has forced its way, upheaving the sand-
stone to an angle of 80°.

With regard to the climate, I made a few notes.
The plain and low hills arc much the same as the
rest of Borneo, or other tropical countries ; hut in
the neighbourhood of Kina Balu it is of course
different. We found at the village of Iviau that the
thermometer never marked above 77° during the
day, and varied from 66° to 69° during the nights.
The mean of all the observations gave a shade below
68°. The Marei Parei spur offered a fine position
for a sanitarium, at any height between 4,000 feet
and 5,000 feet. Our tent was pitched at about
4,700 feet, and we found that the thermometer marked
7 5° (mean) in the mid-day shade, 56° at six a.m.,
and 63° (mean) at six p.m. This would be a delight-
ful climate in a well-built house. The cave at
9,000 feet was very cold — at two p.m. 52° mean ; and
during the three nights I slept there on my first
expedition, it was 40° 33' (mean) ; ranging between
36° 5' and 43°. In my last expedition, in the
cave, the thermometer marked: 6.30 a.m., 43°;
9.15 a.m., 48°; 3.30 p.m., 51 -250°; 6 p.m., 45*750°.
Night, registering thermometer : 41*250° and 41°.
On the summit, during mist and rain, it marked 52° ;
while exposed to a strong wind and a storm of sleet
and hail, it fell to 43°. On a fine day, however,

VOL. I.

386 PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

it marked 62° in the shade, there being much refrac-
tion from the rocks.

I think it most probable that water would freeze
on the summit during a similar storm of hail and
sleet to which we were exposed, were it to occur
during1 the night-time, as at two p.m. the thermo-
meter fell to 43°, though held in the hand : and at
the cave it fell to 36'5° during a very cold night,
though partly protected by the tent, and when I went
out, I found a sort of hoar-frost on the rocks and
leaves.

I must add a few remarks on the map. The
sea-line is taken from the Admiralty chart, while
the interior I have fdlcd up from the observations
and rough plans made during the journey. It
may afford some idea of the country, and serve
until a traveller with greater advantages makes a
better.

I will add a few remarks on that great indentation
of the land to the north of Kina Balu, called Maludu
Bay, but more correctly Marudu. Steering from the
westward, there arc two channels by which the
northern point of Borneo may be rounded : they are to
the north and south of the little island of Kalam-
punuan. A sweeping current often renders the latter
dangerous, as it would drive a vessel on a reef of rocks
that runs off the island. Just before the extreme
point is reached there is a small river or creek of
Luru, which is also known by the name of Simpang
Mengayu, or the Cruising Creek, the Sampan Mangy
of the Admiralty charts. Bound the point there is
another, named Karatang, and both arc well known to
the natives as the spots where the Balignini and

MALUDU BAY.

387

Lamm pirates lurked to catch the trading prahus
which passed that way.

An incident occurred to a Bornean acquaintance,
named Nakodah Bakir, who had accompanied me on
my visit to the Baram River. lie had found, from
experience, the inutility of arming his prahus, with
brass swivels of native manufacture ; as, though they
carry far, they seldom hit anything; so he changed
his plan and armed his men with English muskets.
Early in the autumn of 1851, he was on a trading
voyage to Maludu Bay, and having secured a good
cargo, was returning to the capital. As he rounded
the northern point, live Lamm boats dashed out of
Luru, and pulled towards him, firing their brass
swivels, whose balls passed harmlessly through his
rigging. lie kept his thirty men quiet till the first
pirate boat was within fifty yards, when his crew
jumped up and fired a volley of musketry into it.
This novel reception so astonished the pirates that
they gave up the pursuit.

Maludu Bay extends nearly thirty miles inland. The
western shore, near the point, is rather flat, but soon
rises into a succession of low hills ; and as you pene-
trate deeper into the bay they swell to the proportion
of mountains on both shores, and Kina Balu and its
attendant ranges form a fine background to the end
of the bay, which, for nearly four miles from the shore,
shallows from about two fathoms to scarcely sufficient
water to float a boat. By keeping the channel, however,
the principal river may be reached. The land is quite
swampy on both banks, mangrove jungle reaching to
within a mile of the town, then nipa palms, mixed
with a few forest trees ; in fact, the whole of the

25—2

388

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

head of the hay appears gradually filling up : the land
obviously encroaching on the sea, the nipa palm
gaining on the mangrove, which is spreading far out
in the salt water on the flat muddy bottom. The
rush of the current from these rivers is sometimes so
great that we have found the whole head of the hay
for five miles completely fresh, and the amount of
earth held in suspension renders it of a white appear-
ance. The houses are built on a narrow creek on
the right-hand bank of the river ; near the country is
flat, hut the mountains soon skirt the plains. The
population of the bay is sufficient to render it a valu-
able commercial settlement for native traders, if security
for life and property could he established, and if the
monopolies of the chiefs could he destroyed. To
show the insecurity, I may mention that in 1859 the
Sultan of Brunei sent a trading prahu there with a
valuable cargo. On the return voyage, just as they
were leaving the mouth of the river Panchur, the
vessel commenced leaking, and they had to land a part
of the cargo. The supercargo returned to the town
for assistance, and during his absence, a large party of
men came into the river, drove away the crew, and
carried off* all the goods. 'They were not regular
pirates, but a band of Sulus, who could not resist the
temptation to plunder.

The monopolies of the chiefs, however, prevent any
intercourse with the producing classes, and thus pre-
vent the possibility of a large increase of trade.

I made many inquiries as to the amount of popula-
tion which dwells in the districts bordering on this
deep bay. I obtained from Sherif Hasan, the son of
Sherif Usman, who formerly ruled these districts with

POPULATION.

389

a strong hand, a list of the number of Ida’an families
who paid tribute to his father. I then inquired
of the chief Datu Budrudin, of Sherifs Musahor,
Abdullah, and Houssein, and of a number of traders,
and their accounts do not greatly vary.

Sherif Usman received tribute from the following

districts : —

Udat

200 families of

Milau

200

Lotong

150

Anduan

Metun'ro'on" ...

CO o

300

Bira'an

100

Tigaman

250

Taminusan

Bintasan

—

Bingkungan . . .

Panclmr

500

Bungun

300

Tandek

1,500

3,GG0 families.

Add a third 1,220 families not paying revenue.

Total 4,880 families.

At six to a family, this would give nearly 30,000
people.

Comparing this statement with those given by the
assembled chiefs, I find they slightly differ. They
reckoned the population at 36,000 people ; and I
account for it, first, by Sherif Hasan not having given
the population of Bintasan ; and, secondly, by his only
mentioning the number of families on the Bungun
who paid tribute to his father, there being above a
thousand families who did not.

They all represented the district of Bengkoka,
not included in the above list, as the most important

390 PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

and populous of all ; it is on tlic eastern coast of
the bay, and the river, though barred at the entrance,
is reputed deep inside. Its population is stated at
16,000 Ida’an. The Malays and Sulus residing in
all these districts are represented as not very nume-
rous ; in fact, as under 5,000, of whom 1,500 are at
Panchur, 1,500 at Bengkoka, and the rest scattered
at the various other villages. If the above figures
represent the numbers, there arc about 52,000 Ida’an
on the banks of the rivers flowing into the bay, and
about 5,000 strangers. They all, however, explained
that, when they enumerated the Ida’an, they only
spoke of those villages which were under the influence
of the people of the coast, and that there were many
tribes among the mountains with whom they had
little intercourse.

I once met a party of these Ida’an ; they were
a dark, sharp-featured race, intelligent-looking, and
appeared in features very much like the Land Dayaks
of Sarawak. They were dressed in their war costume,
consisting of heavy, padded jackets, but wore the
ehawat or cloth round their loins. They were slight
and short men.

The productions of these districts consist of rat-
tans, wax, camphor, tortoise-shell, tripang or sea-slug,
and kaya laka, a sweet-scented wood. Large quan-
tities of rice and tobacco are grown, and, if encouraged,
these cultivations would greatly increase. The only
minerals as yet discovered arc coal in the Bengkoka
Liver, and tin in some stream at the foot of the Ivina
Balu range. I saw specimens of the latter, but no
one has ventured to work it yet. The insecurity
would prevent the Chinese succeeding.

DIFFICULT NAVIGATION.

391

Starting from the head of Maludu Bay, and skirt-
ing the eastern shore, it is found to he shoal off
Mobang Point, and on the next inlet, Teluk Mobang,
Sherif Usman endeavoured to establish a village ;
but while his people were clearing the forest, they
were seized with severe vomitings, many dying ; all
arising, the Malays, confidently believe, from the
machinations of the evil spirits who had been dis-
turbed in their homes. Leaving the points of Taburi
and Si Perak, we pass through the straits formed
by the island of Banguey and the mainland. That
Island is inhabited in the interior by Ida’an, but on
the shore many Bajus assemble, collecting tortoise-
shell and sea-slug, and they have built many houses
near the peak. It was they who pillaged and burnt
the Minerva , wrecked off Balambahgan, in November,
1848. I have mentioned the Mengkabong people
having treacherously plundered a village on Ban-
gucy ; the inhabitants consisted of their own race,
mixed with a few Sulus and others. The islets to
the south-west of Banguey are named Padudangan
(by the Sulus it is called Palarukan), and Patarunan.
Indarawan is the name of a small river at the south
of Banguey, where, it is said, sufficient good water
may be procured to supply vessels. Passing between
Mali Wali and a rock off the coast, the soundings
are very variable, and the sea appears filled with
sandbanks and shoals ; in fact, for a frigate, the sea
is not sufficiently clear of reefs till we arrive opposite
Sandakan Bay.

Commencing from the north-eastern point of
Borneo, we first come to a little bay called Batul
Ayak, the only inhabitants of which arc Bajus, who

392

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

entirely reside in their boats. Then there is a small
river called Kina (China) Bangun : there are but
few people residing there, wanderers with no settled
dwellings. After that there is Kang Ivarasan, where
there are probably not more than a couple of hundred
Mahommcdans, but the Dusuns in the interior are
numerous : my informants knew of villages contain-
ing above three hundred families. The river Paitan
is large and deep, and there are above a thousand
Islams living here, and the Ida’an in the interior are
represented to be as numerous as the leaves on the
trees, and the slopes of the hills are covered with
great forests of camphor-trees. I may observe that
boxes made of camphor-wood prevent any insects
meddling with woollen cloths, and are therefore very
useful. Camphor has so powerful an aromatic smell,
that it will drive every insect from its neighbourhood.
Passing the stream of Babahar, which is small, and
without inhabitants, we arrive at Sugut, to the
north of the commencement of Labuk Bay ; but it
has also a small entrance to the south of it. The
Islam population is represented as numerous, while
seven thousand families of Ida’an reside in the in-
terior ; in consequence of their great superiority of
numbers, their chiefs have great influence in those
districts. A few elephants are caught here, but the
principal exports arc rattans, wax, and camphor,
The north-east coast of Borneo, as far as the entrance
of the Sugut River, is rather flat, only a few low hills
occasionally diversifying the scene ; but no sooner do
you round the point, and enter Labuk Bay, than it
presents a different aspect: the low hills gradually
swell into mountains, one range of which is remark-

THE NORTII-EAST COAST.

393

ably peaked — as jagged, from one view, as the edge
of a saw. Kina Balu is visible along this coast, and
from the eastern side the ascent appears feasible. A
vessel steering along the shore finds it difficult, from
the numerous shoals, while pretty islets are scat-
tered about in every direction. If the Benggaya he
approached in a direct line, the water gradually
decreases from three to one and a half fathoms ; hut,
keeping close into the front, it deepens to five, seven,
and no bottom with a ten-fathom line. The country,
as viewed from the mouth of this river, presents only
mangrove jungle, with an occasional glimpse at the
distant mountains : its entrance is very shallow, not
deep enough at low tide to float a ship’s cutter. To
reach the village of Benggaya, it is necessary to keep
to the left-hand branch, avoiding the broad stream
which stretches away to the right ; hut after ten
miles the stream divides, and it is necessary to pass
by the left-hand branch, and continue for about
twenty miles farther up a most extraordinarily wind-
ing1 river before the houses are reached. This out-of-
the-way situation is chosen to avoid the attacks of
pirates. The hanks of this river present a continued
succession of mangrove and nipa swamp for many
miles, only occasionally varied by dry land and fine
forest trees. The stream winds in a most extraor-
dinary manner, and at one place the reaches had met,
and nothing hut a fallen tree prevented a saving of
two miles of distance. The inhabitants consist of a
few Islams, called men of Buluhgan, doubtless fugi-
tives from the Malay State of that name a couple
of hundred miles farther south. There is an over-
land communication between Sugut and Benggaya,

394 PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

prepared by the latter in ease of being suddenly
surprised, as they have no interior to fly to, and con-
sequently no Ida’an population.

The largest river which runs into this bay is the
Labuk, which gives its name to the place. It has
three entrances — Kalagan, small; Labuk, large; Sabi,
small. Off its mouth is a place called Lingkabu,
famous for its pearl fishery. The productions of this
district are principally camphor, wax, rattans, and
pearls, and the interior is reported to be well inha-
bited by the Ida’an. Next to it there is an insigni-
ficant village of Islams on the river Sufigalihut, and
is only inhabited on account of the edible birds’ nests
found in the interior.

Between the eastern point of Labuk Bay and the
islands there is a three-fathom channel. The coast
is low, with no marked features until we round the
point, and the bluff islands of Sandakan Bay are
visible. Then the land appears to rise gradually
into pretty hills, presenting beautiful slopes for culti-
vation ; but as we approach the entrances of the
Kina Batangan, the land again becomes low. San-
dakan Bay itself is a splendid harbour, with a good
supply of fresh water. It used to be well inhabited,
but on one occasion the villages were surprised by
the Balignini pirates, and sacked and burnt by them.
The inhabitants who escaped the attack dispersed
among the neighbouring communities, but every year
strong parties of the surrounding people assemble
there to collect the valuable products of the place,
which consist of large quantities of white birds’ nests,
pearls, wax, sea-slug, and the best kind of camphor.

About four or five years ago, Pangeran, or Datu

STORY OF THE ATAS MAN.

395

Mahomed, the ruler of Atas, became so unbearably
tyrannical that a large section of the population de-
termined to abandon their country, and hearing of
the English settlement of Labuan, resolved to remove
there. One of their principal men proceeded first
to make arrangements for the others, who in the
meantime made temporary dwellings in Sandakan
Bay. He sailed round to the north-west coast, and
unfortunately put into the Papar river for water.
The chief of that district, Fangeran Omar, detained
him and forced him to send up his family to his house.
Week after week passed, and they were still kept
there, till information reached our colony, when the
governor sent an officer to try and release these
people, but his representations were treated, with
contempt, as lie had no material force at his back ;
and the next thing I heard was that the Bornean
chief had put the Atas man to death, on pretence
that he was about to run amuck, and taken the
wife and daughters into his harim, reducing the
followers to slavery. When this intelligence reached
Sandakan Bay, it is not surprising the fugitives did
not venture on the inhospitable north-west coast.
The whole affair might have been better managed
on our part, and had proper representations been
made to the admiral on the station, there is little
doubt he would have considered himself authorized
to interfere.

Passing this bay, wre arrive at the many mouths
of the Kina Batangan river ; the first, named Bala-
batang, is said to connect the river with the bay ;
the second is Trusan Abai, by which the first village
may be reached in seven days. The deepest entrance

396 PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

is Tundong Buahgin, and in certain months, perhaps
after the rainy season, it is said there is a channel
with three fathoms ; hut in the dry weather the sand
again collects and spoils the passage. It is seldom
used, except by very large trading prahus, as it takes
them thirty days to reach the first village. Judging
by the time required by the Bornean boats to reach
the town of Langusin, on the Baram river, during
the rainy season, we may calculate that with the
windings of the river, the first village must he about
a hundred miles from the mouth. The Sulu prahus
beinw heavier built, the Bornean ones used in the
Baram trade would move a third faster. The first
village on the banks is called Bras Manik. There
are numerous hamlets beyond ; in fact, the Kina
Batahgan river is always spoken of as one of the
most populous, and by far the most important on
the north-eastern coast, and it is the one the Datus
of Sulu watch with the most jealous attention. As
this is the only country in Borneo where the elephants
are numerous, it is the only one where ivory forms an
important article of trade in the eyes of the natives.
But the most valuable articles arc the remarkably
fine white birds’ nests and the camphor, which is
collected in large quantities in the old forests which
clothe the lofty mountains seen in the interior. Wax,
sea-slug, very fine tortoise-shell, and also pearls, are
the articles that render this trade so sought after.
The tortoise-shell is collected on the many islands
with broad sandy beaches that stud this quiet sea.
My servant once found a packet ready prepared for
sale left by some careless collector near the remains
of a deserted hut. Turtle also frequent these islands;

CAPE UNSANd.

397

and one day, while walking along the beach with a
hlue-jacket, we saw a fine animal in shoal water,
lie sprang in, and after a vigorous struggle, in which
his companions partly assisted, he turned the beast
on his back and towed him ashore, to afford, next
day, excellent turtle soup for the whole ship’s com-
pany. The natives generally despise rattans as articles
of export, on account of their great hulk, otherwise
they might collect sufficient to load many ships. The
principal articles of import into these countries arc
gray shirtings, chintzes, red cloth, iron, steel, brass
wire, heads, and powder and muskets. With opium,
they say themselves, they are sufficiently supplied by
the Lanun pirates, who obtain it from the prahus
they capture among the Dutch islands.

Sigama is the next river, and has hut a small
population of Islams, though there are many Ida’an
in the interior.

Cape Unsang is low* and marked by few charac-
teristic features, but on rounding the point becomes
steadily prettier until we reach the Tungku river,
when it presents a beautiful succession of low hills
with the mountain of Siriki to the left, which is a
good mark to discover the pirate haunt of Tungku.
All the small rivers on the southern shore of Cape
Unsang are barred, not admitting a ship’s barge at
low-water — at least, we did not find deeper channels.
I saw here a shark, the largest I have ever noticed :
it swam to and fro in the shallow water, eyeing the
English seamen who were dragging their boats over
the sands, but it did not venture near enough to
be dangerous. We were sitting in the gig a little
to seaward and it passed and repassed within a few

39S PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

yards of us, and I thought it must have been fifteen
feet in length, hut the imagination is apt to wander
on such occasions, and as it swam in very shallow
water, it appeared to show more of its hack than
usual. As the officers and men were on particular
service, no one attempted to put a ball into it.
Tungku appeared a type of the neighbouring dis-
tricts : near the sea it is flat, occasionally varied by
a low hill. I walked several hours through this
country, and never before saw more luxuriant crops ;
the rice stalks were over our heads, the sugar cane
was of enormous girth, and the pepper vines had
a most flourishing appearance : the soil must be of
the very finest quality.

I have visited none of the districts on the east
coast to the south of Tungku, but I heard that the
people of Tidong, as of old, are troubling the neigh-
bouring countries, as the Dayaks of Serihas and
Sakarang did the north-west coast when I first
reached Borneo. In sight of Cape Unsang, arc
many islands, at present the resort of the Balignini,
as Tawi Tawi and Binadan. A chief from the
former captured a Spanish schooner in 1859, and
was reported to have found the daughter of the
captain on hoard. The Spanish Government made
many efforts to recover her ; but by native report she
still lives with her captor, Panglima Taupan, who
treats her with every attention and considers her his
principal wife. I heard last year she had home
a child to him, and was now unwilling to leave
him.

The inhabitants of the north-cast coast may be
divided into Pagan and Mahomcdan. The former

TIIE MAHOMEDANS.

399

are Ida’an, no doubt exactly similar to their country-
men found on the opposite coast ; but at Sugut the
natives affirm there is a tribe who have a short tail.
I have elsewhere mentioned that my informant de-
clared he had felt it : it was four inches long, and
quite stiff ; and that at their houses they were pro-
vided with seats with holes for this uncomfortable
prolongation of the spine ; the poorer people con-
tented themselves with sitting on simple logs of wood,
allowing the tail to hang over. It is quite possible
there may have been some instances in a tribe, as I
have heard that this deformity has been known in
Europe ; and from one or two would soon arise the
story of the tribes with tails. I do not think I have
mentioned elsewhere that I have seen Dayaks who
carry little mats hanging down their backs, fastened
to their waistcloths, on which they sit : they always
have them there, ready to be used. I at first thought
that the story of the men with tails arose from the
method of wearing the waistcloth adopted by some
of the tribes : they twist it round their loins, and
have one end hanging down in front, the other
behind, but some so manage it that the resemblance
to a tail at a little distance is remarkable, particu-
larly when the men are running fast.

The Mahomedan population consists of Sul us,
Bajus, and a few Lanuns, together with slaves, con-
sisting of captives made by the pirates during their
cruises among the various islands of the Archipelago,
and sold at that great slave-mart, Sugh. The
districts of the north-east coast are nearly all governed
by chiefs from Sulu, or by the descendants of the
Arab adventurers who all assume the title of Serib,

400

PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

or, more correctly, Sherif. They do their utmost
to monopolize the trade, and do not hesitate to cut
off any native prahus who may venture on that coast;
and Europeans have avoided all connection with it
for many years ; the last attempt was made hy a
Mr. Burns, who lost life and ship in Maludu Bay
in 1851.

END OF VOL. I

London : Printed by Smith, Eldeb & Co., Little Green Arbour Court, Old Bailey, E.C.

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Life in the forests of the Far East.

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