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Market Gardening. By F. L. YEAW, Manager,
Oasis Farm and Orchard Company, Roswell, N. M.
Formerly Professor of Market Gardening, Mas-
sachusetts Agricultural College, vi +120 pages,
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Farm Crops and Soils. By Professor A. G. MCCALL,
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Injurious Insects. By DEAN E. D. SANDERSON and
Professor L. M. PEAIRS, West Virginia University.
For full announcement see list following index.
1M. 6/10/15
MARKET GARDENING
F. L. YE AW
Manager, Oasis Farm and Orchard Company, Roswell, New Mexico
Formerly Professor of Market Gardening,
Massachusetts Agricultural College
FIRST EDITION
FIRST THOUSAND
NEW YORK
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
LONDON: CHAPMAN & HALL: LIMITED
1915
MAIN Lt.KAKY-AGKICUl.TU.'fE
,, Copyright, 1915
BY
' Tf. L. YEAW
THE SCIENTIFIC PRESS
IERT DRUMMOND AND COMP
BROOKLYN. N. Y.
PREFACE
THE income from the sale of vegetables is practically
twice that produced from the great fruit industries of the
country. Only recently, however, is Market Gardening
receiving the attention that it merits as a subject in which
valuable instruction may be given in our schools.
The purpose of this little manual is to furnish, in a con-
densed and usable form, information concerning methods
and best practices for growing and marketing the com-
moner vegetables. It is designed primarily for use as
an elementary text on market gardening.
Methods for the propagation, preparation of the soil
for, planting, cultivation, harvesting and marketing of
twenty-three of the more common and hardy vegetables
are considered in detail. In addition, such information
is given concerning soils, fertilizers, moisture requirements,
seeds, germination, the preparation and care of hot beds
and the storing and packing of vegetables as is necessary
to a reasonably complete understanding of the whole
problem. A special chapter is devoted to the location,
planning and care of home and school gardens.
Growers of vegetables in a small way for the home
table, as well as those engaged in market gardening on
a commercial scale, it is believed, will find this a practical,
reliable and handy guide.
F. L. YEAW.
ROSWELL, N. M.
April, 1915.
iii
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEN. CULTIVATION
PAGE
Market — Soil — Exposure — Labor — Water — Tools — Cultivation. . . 1
CHAPTER II
FERTILIZERS
Stable Manures — Composting — Chemical Fertilizers — Nitrogen —
Nitrate of Soda — Potash — Phosphoric Acid — Complete Fer-
tilizers— Soil Acidity — Lime — Green Manures — Legumes —
Ploughing Under — Catch Crops 9
CHAPTER III
HOT BEDS
Uses — Location — Means of Heating — Construction — Preparation
of the Manure — Care 19
CHAPTER IV
SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING
Quality of the Seed — Germination — Seed Beds — Planting —
Transplanting 24
CHAPTER V
IRRIGATION
Moisture Requirements of Plants — Methods of Irrigation 32
vl CONTENTS
CHAPTER VI
VEGETABLE GARDENS
PAGE
The Home Garden — School Gardens 36
CHAPTER VII
STORING AND PACKING
Storage Cellars and Pits — Storing Root Crops — Celery — Onions
and Cabbage — Packing 43
CHAPTER VIII
CROPS
Propagation, preparation of soil for, planting, cultivation, harvest-
ing and marketing of the following : 1. Asparagus. 2. Beans. —
3. Beets. — 4. Cabbage. — 5. Brussels sprouts. — 6. Cauliflower. —
7. Celery. — 8. Cucumbers. — 9. Dandelion. — 10. Egg Plant. —
11. Horse-radish. — 12. Lettuce. — 13. Muskmelon. — 14. On-
ions.— 15. Parsnips. — 16. Salsify. — 17. Pea. — 18. Radish.—
19. Rhubarb. — 20. Spinach.— 21. Squash.— 22. Sweet corn. —
23. Tomatoes 53
MARKET GARDENING
CHAPTER I - /••'. ;.. • :• { • ,%• h ';
' » 3 ••> }
LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEN. CULTIVATION
THE location of the market garden is determined by a
number of factors, the most important of which are market,
soil, transportation facilities, labor supply, manure supply
and water.
1. Market. The market, and nearness to market, are
of first importance in choosing the location for the market
garden. The grower must have a sure and dependable
market for his products; the larger cities generally afford
the steadiest and most dependable markets. Most of the
products of the market garden are of a perishable nature;
if the garden is not located close to a market, within
hauling distance, the express or fast freight service must
be efficient and dependable. The condition of the roads
is of vital importance to the grower who intends to haul
his produce to market with a team or auto truck.
2. Soil. The soil is of secondary importance to the
market. A market must be had in which to dispose of
the produce; but a good gardener can build up and improve
the average soil so that it will produce good crops of most
vegetables, while it might be impossible to create or build
up a market.
2 MARKET GARDENING
The ideal market garden soil is a good sandy loam, under
laid by a gravelly subsoil. Such a soil warms up quickly
in the spring, never bakes or puddles, can be worked soon
after & rain, can be worked early in the spring, is well
drained and is adapted to a wide range of crops.
3. Exposure. The land should slope to the south or
southeast. Such an aspect assures the earliest warming
up in the spring, is , protected from cold north winds and
g1 the greatest amount of sunshine.
FIG. 1. — Disc Harrow.
Windbreaks are desirable and may be temporary or per-
manent. Temporary wind breaks may be built by stick-
ing brush into the ground or constructing a tight board
fence along the exposed side. A more permanent wind-
break is to be had by planting trees close together along
the exposed side; this will, in time, form a compact hedge
which is very efficient in breaking the wind.
LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEN 3
4. Labor. The market gardener is dependent upon a
quickly available and cheap supply of labor. The large
FIG, 2. — The Meeker Smoothing Harrow.
cities are the sources of such a supply of labor. Intensive
gardening must be done very largely by hand and a large
FIG. 3.— Double Wheel Hoe.
number of hands must be available, for a few months' time
during the year, for the successful carrying on of the inten-
sive market garden. The larger cities also furnish a large
MARKET GARDENING
LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEN 5
supply of horse manure which is most important in market
gardening.
5. Water. A market garden is not completely equipped
unless it has an abundant supply of water for irrigating
the crops and for the preparation of the vegetables for
market. The gardener should not depend upon the rain-
fall for the success of his garden. It is essential that water
be available for irrigation whenever the conditions demand
it. Practically every kind of vegetable is washed when
being prepared for market and a good supply of pure water
is necessary for this work.
6. Preparation of the Soil. After the manure has been
applied, the ground should be well ploughed. Four to six
inches is sufficient depth for ploughing in most cases; too
deep ploughing is not advisable because new soil is brought
to the surface which will take a number of seasons to come
to a proper condition for the growing of vegetables. Fol-
lowing the ploughing, the soil should be thoroughly disced.
A double cut-a-way disc harrow is the best tool to break
up lumps and with which to get the soil into its best con-
dition for the'planting of garden crops. The discing should
be followed by an application of a high grade chemical fer-
tilizer which should be mixed with the top soil by the use
of a peg tooth smoothing harrow or by the use of a Meeker
disc smoothing harrow.
When the soil is of an usually poor quality or is somewhat
heavy and lumpy, it is advisable to follow the first discing
with the plough. It may be necessary to plough the ground
three times to get it into proper condition for such a crop
as lettuce. The first and last ploughings may be shallower
than the second ploughing when three ploughings are made.
7. Cultivation. The vegetable garden must have fre-
quent and thorough, but shallow, cultivation. Most vege-
MARKET GARDENING
LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEN 7
tables do not root deeply but send their roots out quite
near the surface. The cultivation, if carried on too deep
close to the plants, is liable to injure the roots. The object
of frequent cultivation is to keep down the weeds and to
maintain a dust mulch for » the conservation of the water
held in the soil. Cultivation lets the air and sunlight into
the soil thereby favoring the development of certain ben-
eficial bacteria and helping to make available the plant
food applied to the soil.
FIG. 6. — Combined Hill and Drill Seeder and Wheel Hoe.
For the use of the seed drill the soil must be in a smooth,
mellow condition, free from lumps or coarse material that
would interfere with the planting or with keeping the
rows straight. The Meeker smoothing harrow, Fig. 2, is
the best tool on the market for finishing the ground pre-
vious to drilling in the seed. This harrow consists of four
rows of small discs, placed close together, two rows of discs
in front and two rows behind with a smoothing plank in
the middle. This harrow will leave the surface in as fine
condition as though the ground had been hand raked.
8 MARKET GARDENING
When the rows are close together and hand work must
be employed, the choice of tools will largely determine the
cost of the cultivation. The two-wheel and single-wheel
hoes are commonly used in cultivating the smaller vege-
table crops. The two-wheel hoe is designed and intended
to run straddle of the row with a wheel each side and close
to the plants. The various teeth and cutters furnished with
the double or single-wheel hoes are adjustable so that the
cultivation may be very close or farther from the plants.
The single-wheel hoe is designed for use between the rows.
There are a number of combination seed drills and wheel hoes
on the market which are very desirable for the small grower,
the cost of the combined tool being but little more than the
cost of the seed drill alone. The best makes of the combina-
tion tools allow for the elimination of the seed drill or wheel
hoe attachments as may be desired. Others make it neces-
sary to use both the seed drill and the wheel hoe attachments
at the same time; the drill simply being thrown out of gear
and the teeth attached.
CHAPTER II
FERTILIZERS
8. Kinds. There are three general sources of fertilizer,
or plant food; stable manures, chemical fertilizers and green
manures. The term " green manure " is used to designate
such crops as cow peas, crimson clover, rye and other green
crops grown for ploughing under. Such crops add humus to
the soil and, when a leguminous crop is ploughed under,
a considerable amount of nitrogen is also added to the
soil. Green crops are usually ploughed under in the spring
although it is often desirable to plough the crop under in the
fall.
9. Stable Manures. Stable manures are more gen-
erally used than any other source of plant food for grow-
ing vegetables. In many instances, they are the cheapest
source of plant food obtainable, as when the grower is located
near a large city and the stable manure may be had at small
cost or for hauling it away. In other instances, manure
brings a good price and is often shipped long distances for
the market gardener. Rotted stable manure is the best
fertilizer for the garden, for not only is a supply of quickly
available plant food added, but stable manure also furnishes
a store of humus in its most desirable condition for readily
incorporating with the soil. Stable manure runs compara-
tively low in its plant food value. It is estimated that a ton
of partly rotted stable manure is worth about $2.00 for
the plant food contained in it; it is of course worth more
than this to the gardener because of its supply of humus.
9
10 MARKET GARDENING
Humus, or rotted vegetable matter, is indispensable for
the successful growing of vegetables or any other crop.
Humus makes the soil more friable, helps it to hold moisture,
lightens a heavy soil and makes more retentive a light soil.
A soil deficient in humus is hard to work, bakes quickly
after a rain, is slow to warm up in the spring and is very
unfavorable for the use of chemical fertilizer. If humus
is not present in a soil, the chemical fertilizer applied
will largely be lost. The addition of humus renders the
soil fit for the use of chemical fertilizers, and furnishes a
condition favorable for certain chemical changes which
constantly go on in the soil, and for certain friendly bacteria.
Other manures used in vegetable growing are sheep
manure, hen manure, cow manure and hog manure. Hen
and sheep manures are rich in nitrogen and their store of
plant food is quickly available; they are valuable for use
as a top dressing or for crops requiring unusual amounts
of nitrogen. They are " hot " manures and must be used
with care else the crops may be damaged by burning. Cow
and hog manure are cold manures, their content of plant
food is slow to become available except when they are well
rotted.
10. Composting. It is not generally desirable to apply
fresh horse manure to land intended for growing vegetables.
Fresh manure tends to the production of top at the expense
of the root in many crops. The general practice in using
stable manure is to compost it for a considerable time
before applying it to the soil. Rotted or partly rotted
stable manure has it? store of plant food in a quickly
available condition, which is very desirable in growing
vegetables. The plant food contained in fresh manure
is not so quickly available except the nitrogen in the form
of ammonia.
FERTILIZERS 11
Stable manure is composted by making the manure into
a pile as soon as it is hauled to the market garden. Manure
is generally hauled as fast as it is produced and is then built
up into piles conveniently located for final distribution
The pile should be about five feet high and as long and
wide as necessary. As the pile is constructed, the manure
should be firmed by tramping, and if very dry, the manure
should be wetted sufficiently to prevent burning in the pile.
When fresh horse manure is placed in a pile, fermentation
takes place with a considerable amount of heat. The heat
will cause the manure to fire fang, or burn. The pile should
be examined frequently, and if it is showing a whitish or
grayish color, the pile should be turned and watered lightly.
It should be remembered that every time the pile is turned
there is a consequent loss of nitrogen in the form of ammonia;
therefore handle the pile carefully and do not disturb it more
often than is absolutely necessary. About six months time
is ordinarily required for the proper composting of the
manure.
Rotted stable manure is usually applied in the spring
just previous to ploughing. After ploughing the ground
should be thoroughly worked with a disc harrow. Fresh
or partly rotted manure is best ploughed under in the fall;
the procedure in the spring then is to thoroughly disc the
ground before planting.
The rate of application of manure depends upon the
condition of the ground and the crops to be grown. In
intensive gardening, where the ground is not allowed to
be idle during the growing season, from twenty to fifty
cords of rotted manure per acre should be ploughed under
each season. The average application is twenty to twenty-
five cords.
11. Commercial Fertilizers. Commercial fertilizers are
12 MARKET GARDENING
necessary for the maximum production from the area
planted. Stable manures alone may furnish sufficient plant
food for some classes of vegetables, but being unbalanced
in their content of plant food, their use cannot be depended
upon entirely for the successful growing of all vegetables.
Manures have a relatively high content of nitrogen, and are
usually deficient in the mineral elements of phosphorous
and potash. To balance the ration of plant food, chemical
fertilizers are used.
The plant food contained in manures becomes available
rather slowly, except for the nitrogen which is in the organic
form, ammonia. This becomes available very quickly,
particularly if the manure is rotted.
Chemical fertilizers may be obtained in forms which
are quickly available. This is important in intensive
gardening where quick results are very desirable. Slow
plant growth results in vegetables of inferior quality and
oftentimes the yield is small in quantity. Slow growth
tends to produce vegetables tough in texture and of poor
flavor. Rapid growth produces tender, succulent vegetables
of fine flavor. Then again, the more quickly a crop may
be matured, the sooner it will become ready for harvesting
and thus out of the way for succeeding crops. The use of
chemical fertilizers enables the grower to raise a maximum
crop of fine flavor and quality, and to produce the crop in
the shortest time possible.
Chemical fertilizers should seldom be used alone; they
give the best results only when used as an adjunct to stable
manures. To get the largest results from an application
of chemical fertilizers, the ground must be liberally supplied
with humus, and must be in a high state of cultivation.
12. Nitrogen. The element necessary in the production
of tender succulent stems and leaves is nitrogen, and it is
FERTILIZERS 13
therefore very valuable in the growing of such crops as
celery, cabbage, lettuce, spinach, asparagus, or any crop
grown for its top, or for early maturity. Nitrogen stimu-
lates the plants and tends to produce a good growth in
the early spring before the ground becomes thoroughly
warmed.
13. Nitrate of Soda. The most available and therefore
valuable form in which nitrogen may be supplied is known
as nitrate of soda. The nitrogen becomes available as soon
as the compound is dissolved, while if supplied in manures,
dried blood, bone or tankage, these materials must decom-
pose before their supply 'of nitrogen becomes available.
Nitrate of soda may be supplied alone or in combina-
tion with other elements. The rate of application varies
with the richness of the soil and with the kind of crops
grown. The method of application varies with the condi-
tions; whether it is used as part of a complete fertilizer, or
is used alone as a top dressing. Under most conditions
the best results are obtained from sowing the nitrate broad-
cast, even when the plants are young and tender. If the
foliage is dry at the time of broadcasting the nitrate of
soda, none of it will adhere to the leaves but all will glance
off to the ground.
Nitrate of soda may also be sown along the row quite
close to the plants and then cultivated in, or it may be
applied by any one of the numerous fertilizer distributors
that are adapted for use in narrow rows.
Nitrate of soda is used as a part of complete fertilizers
for vegetables. Such fertilizers should be broadcasted over
the land, or applied with a fertilizer drill just preceding the
final harrowing before seed sowing, or placed in the hill,
or drill, at the time of planting. The amount of nitrate of
soda to be used at one time will vary with the richness of
14 MARKET GARDENING
the soil and with the character of the crop to be fertilized.
The amount varies from a few pounds to as much as 250
pounds per acre. It is the better practice to make smaller
and frequent applications rather than to make larger and
fewer applications.
14. Other Sources of Nitrogen. Nitrogen may also be
obtained from the use of dried blood, tankage, manures,
raw or steamed bone and ground fish. Dried blood decom-
poses quite rapidly and its supply of nitrogen becomes
available quickly. Tankage decomposes somewhat more
slowly than does dried blood. Manures, raw bone and
steamed bone decompose slowly. Ground fish becomes
available slowly.
The supply of nitrogen in a complete fertilizer should
have at least two sources, nitrate of soda, and another source
such as dried blood or tankage.
16. Potash. Potash is particularly necessary in grow-
ing root croops, as carrots, turnips, beets, radishes, and
parsnips. It is also important in growing other vegetable
crops. Sandy or muck soils are usually very deficient in
their supply of this element.
Potash is obtainable in several forms, muriate of potash
being the most available form. Sulphate of potash is also
a desirable form.
17. Phosphoric Acid. As most soils are deficient in
phosphoric acid, the gardener must supply this element
of plant food in some form. Phosphoric acid is very impor-
tant in the growth of nearly all vegetable crops, the cereals
being particularly benefited by it. A deficiency of phos-
phoric acid is indicated by small yields and the slow maturity
of the crops.
Phosphoric acid is derived from several sources, the most
important being Rock Phosphate, Thomas Slag, raw and
FERTILIZERS 15
steamed bone and tankage. The rock phosphates are the
principal source of phosphoric acid for use in gardening.
18. Complete Fertilizers. Fertilizers containing all three
of the principal elements of plant food, nitrogen, phosphoric
acid and potash, are called complete fertilizers. The per-
centages of nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash, vary
with the crops for which they are intended, nitrogen being
higher, for example, in a fertilizer for asparagus or onions,
while a fertilizer for the root crops would be lower in nitrogen
and higher in potash.
A fertilizer containing 4% nitrogen, 8% phosphoric
acid, and 10% potash, is considered the basic fertilizer,
but as has been indicated, the percentages vary with
the need of the crops to be fertilized.
The rate of application of complete fertilizers is governed
by crop requirements and soil conditions. The amount
varies from a few hundred pounds to a ton or more per acre
for a single crop. The average application per season in
intensive gardening is 1500 to 2000 pounds per acre, although
the amount applied during the season may be as high as
4000 pounds or more.
19. Effects of Chemical Fertilizers on the Soil. Exces-
sive applications of chemical fertilizers tend to cause soil
acidity. In instances where the supply of humus is not
kept up, the soil will become hard and unproductive, as well
as acid.
To remedy these conditions, the supply of humus must
be maintained and liberal applications of lime made as
required. The amount of lime to apply varies with soil
conditions; a ton to the acre is usually sufficient for most
soils, although as much as three tons per acre are sometimes
required to neutralize an acid soil.
20. Effects of Lime. Soil acidity is neutralized by
16 MARKET GARDENING
applications of lime, the physical and chemical condition
of the soil are improved, causing plant food to be liberated
and to .become available. Lime, by neutralizing the soil
acidity, renders the land unfavorable for the development
of the club foot of cabbage and other crops belonging to the
same family. Most garden crops do best in a soil slightly
alkaline and applications of lime bring about this condition.
The best results are obtained when the lime is applied in
the spring.
21. Methods of Application. Fertilizers and lime may
be sown broadcast over the land or applied with a fertilizer
drill. The drill is far preferable to hand sowing, both for
uniformity of application and for convenience. Lime should
never be applied with manure, because it liberates the
ammonia which will then be lost. The manure should be
ploughed under and the ground then harrowed, after which
apply the fertilizer or lime, just previous to the time of
planting, and harrow it in.
22. Green Manures. Green manures and stable man-
ures are the best sources of humus. While the growing of
crops for green manuring, or for cover crops is not generally
practiced by the market gardeners, humus must often be
obtained by ploughing under green crops.
Cover crops, and crops grown for green manures, are
divided into two classes, leguminous and non-leguminous.
Crimson clover, red clover, cow peas, and vetch are examples
of leguminous crops. Rye is a commonly grown non-
leguminous crop.
23. The Legumes. The legumes have the ability to
take nitrogen from the air and to store it up in nodules which
grow on their roots. When a leguminous crop is ploughed
under, not only is humus added to the soil, but some fertilizer
in the form of nitrogen is also added.
FERTILIZERS 17
The clovers are usually sown in the spring or early
summer following an early crop of vegetables. The pro-
cedure varies as to when the crop is to be turned under.
The crop may be allowed to grow during the season of sowing,
and all of it ploughed under the following spring, or a cutting
may be had and then the second growth ploughed under.
This may be done either in the fall or spring, depending upon
whether an early planting is desired. For early results,
the crop should be ploughed under in the fall.
Cow peas and Canadian field peas are desirable legu-
minous crops used for green manuring. Neither of these
crops is hardy and they must therefore be ploughed under
in the fall. The Canadian field pea is one of the best of the
crops grown to add humus to the soil.
24. Non-Legumes. Rye is considered more of a catch
crop than most of the cover crops grown. It may be sown
quite late in the fall, and will make a good growth even in
a rather poor soil. Very often poor soils are built up by
first growing rye on them, which is turned under and followed
by some leguminous crop.
25. Ploughing Under. The older or more mature a
green crop becomes before ploughing under, the longer it
will take for the crop to decompose and for its plant food
and humus to become available. The more mature the crop
when ploughed under, the more danger there is that the
capillarity of the soil may become more or less disturbed,
because of the layer of undecayed vegetable matter under-
lying the ploughed soil. The furrow should be turned on
edge as much as possible to avoid- this condition. Thorough
discing is a great help in restoring the soil to its former
capillarity, and also in cutting up the green crop ploughed
under.
26. Effects of Green Manuring. Green crops are valu-
18 MARKET GARDENING
able and desirable sources of humus, but the rotting of green
crops when ploughed under has a tendency to leave the soil
somewhat acid. Before attempting to grow all kinds of
vegetables in soil on which a green crop has been grown
and ploughed under, an application of lime must be made
to neutralize the acidity.
27. Catch Crops. Green crops are often grown as catch
crops. After the ground is cleared in the fall, or even before
the crop is off the ground, a sowing may be made of crimson
clover or rye. Crimson clover is often sowed between the
rows of sweet corn when the last cultivation is given. Such
catch crops may be grown as sources of humus, or as is often
the case, they are grown to hold the soil and to prevent
washing. Catch crops being grown only through a limited
season seldom grow to much size.
CHAPTER III
HOT BEDS
28. Uses. Hot beds are used to start plants ahead of
season, thereby enabling the grower to mature such crops
as tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, peppers, and many others
earlier than their normal period of maturity. They are
also used to grow such crops as radishes, lettuce, and green
onions for marketing.
Hot beds are often used for protection, either in the
spring or fall. Plants may be planted in a hot bed in the
spring and allowed to remain in them until the danger of
frost is passed, when the beds are removed; or the hot beds
may be used in the fall for maturing crops after the frosts
begin.
29. Location. The hot beds should be constructed on
a well drained piece of ground with a south or southeast
exposure. The beds should be protected against cold winds.
This may be done by taking advantage of natural wind
breaks, such as hedges, board fences, or buildings. A tem-
porary protection may be afforded by erecting frames and
putting hot bed mats on them.
30. Means of Heating. Hot beds are usually heated
by fermenting manure, although steam or hot water are
sometimes employed as sources of heat. The coils of pipe
are hung on the frames, and pipes incased in tile are buried
in the soil. The tile prevents too rapid drying out of the soil.
Hot air is used for heating hot beds by constructing a
furnace outside and at the end of the hot bed, and burying
19
20
MAKKET GARDENING
HOT BEDS 21
the flue in the hot bed. The flue should divide into two
lines and unite again at the farther end of the bed. Tile
is commonly employed in building the flue, although brick
may be used.
31. Construction. Manure heated hot beds are con-
structed by digging a pit fifteen to thirty inches deep and
six feet wide and placing over it a frame as long as may
be desired. The front of the bed should be six inches lower
than the back so that the glass may have the proper slope
toward the sun. The common practice is to build the front
six inches high and the back of the bed twelve inches high.
Fig. 8, which is a cross-section view of a hot bed, shows
the general features of construction. The frame should be
strongly constructed of durable lumber, such as chestnut or
cypress planking, and 2X4 inch posts. Cross bars should
be placed from the front to the back of the bed at regular
intervals to stiffen the frame.
The frame of the hot bed is constructed to support the
sash, which is commonly 3X6 feet, and glazed with 10X12
inch glass. Smaller glass is sometimes used, but three
sections of 10X12 inch glass is preferred by most growers.
Sash is often made and used in sizes larger than 3x6 feet,
but larger sash is much heavier and more awkward to
handle, also a bed over six feet wide cannot be worked
advantageously. The sash should be made of cypress or
cedar to assure durability.
The depth of the pit is determined by such factors as
the time of year, whether the weather is severe or mild,
and the kind of crop to be grown. Such crops as radishes
or lettuce do not require so much heat as do tomatoes or
peppers.
32. Preparation of the Manure. Horse or mule manure
may be used as a source of heat. The manure should be
22
MARKET GARDENING
freshly gathered, or else should be manure that has not
been heated. Place the manure in a pile about six feet
wide and four feet deep and as long as may be necessary.
The manure should be prepared under cover of a shed for
best results. As the pile is constructed, the material should
be shaken out and well firmed with the back of the fork
or by lightly tramping.
The pile should be examined often, and as soon as a
good heat is generated, it should be turned, taking care
^3L Manure
Manure
FIG. 8. — Cross-section of a Hot Bed.
that the outside of the pile is placed in the centre of the
new pile. Examine the pile carefully and in two or three
days the fermentation will again have become well started
heating the manure thoroughly. The manure is then ready
to put into the pit.
The manure is placed in the pit, a layer at a time, four
to six inches deep, and tramped well, especially in the
corners and along the sides. After the pit has been filled
to the required depth, two to six inches of good loam is
placed on the manure. When the hot beds are used for
the growing of plants in flats or pots, two inches of soil is
HOT BEDS 23
sufficient to keep the air sweet, and to absorb the moisture
from the manure. When crops are to be grown in the soil
of the hot bed, the soil should be at least six inches deep.
After the manure has been placed in the pit and covered
with loam, the hot bed thermometers should be thrust into
the manure, and the sash, shutters and mats should be placed
over the hot bed. As soon as the manure has again become
hot and the soil is warmed through, the bed is ready for the
introduction of plants in flats, or for the planting of crops
in the soil.
33. Care of the Hot Bed. Careful attention to the
details of watering and ventilation are necessary for the suc-
cess in growing plants in hot beds. The water should be ap-
plied evenly and at a time when the temperature is rising.
Watch the beds at the sides and corners that they do not
dry out too rapidly. The hot beds are ventilated by raising
the sash, either at intervals along the bed, or all of them, as
the conditions may demand. Small blocks of wood are
handy for placing under the sash for ventilating. Avoid
drafts as much as possible at all times, particularly with
such crops as tomatoes, peppers or any other of the more
tender crops.
In the early spring, when the weather is yet quite
severe at times, the hot beds must be banked with hot
manure at the time that the pit is filled with manure for
heating the bed. The manure should be banked to the full
height of the frames and tramped firmly. Anything that
will exclude the cold may be used for covering the frames
at night and during severe weather. Mats of various kinds
may be purchased, or straw mats may be made at home.
Old blankets are sometimes used, also wooden shutters.
The shutters are made the same size as the sash, 3x6 feet,
and of light lumber.
CHAPTER IV
SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING
34. Quality of the Seed. The importance of planting
good seed cannot be overestimated, because upon the selec-
tion of the seed may depend the success or failure of the
crop. Several factors determine the quality of the seed; the
most important are viability and truth to name and type. To
have a high percentage of germination the seed must be
viable, i.e., must have the ability to germinate under average
conditions and grow into seedlings. The seed must be true
to name, that is, it should produce plants of the variety for
which it is purchased. It must be true to type, or strain.
Most varieties of vegetables and fruits have a number of
types; it is undesirable that a planting of any crop should
be a mixture of several types.
The average of good seed is reasonably free from weed
seeds and dirt, but the grower should be sure that his seed
is clean before planting it.
The growing of seeds at home is quite extensively prac-
ticed and with good results if the grower has a definite,
fixed idea as to the type of plant which he wishes to
propagate. When selecting fruits for their seeds, the
grower should select the plant for its good qualities rather
than select the biggest and finest fruits regardless of the
plant upon which they have been grown. If the plant is
not vigorous and does not possess desirable qualities, it is
probable that the seed saved, even though the fruits be
24
SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 25
desirable, will not produce fruits of the grade desired. The
average grower will usually do better to buy his seed from
a reliable seedsman rather than to attempt to grow his own
seed.
The seeds of most vegetables are viable and will produce
good plants and crops if they are more than one year old
when planted. The best practice is to plant fresh seeds be-
cause the quality of the seed is determined as much by the
conditions under which they have been stored as upon
the conditions under which they have been grown. Seeds
should be stored in tight bags in a cool dry place.
35. Germination. Each seed contains a minute plant
ready to start into growth as soon as sufficient heat and
moisture are supplied. Figs. 9 (a), 9(6), 9(c) and 9(d) show
successive stages in the growth of a corn seedling. The
minute plant in the kernel absorbs moisture and increases
in size, first sending out a root and later the stem. Later,
other roots appear and the stem turns upward toward the
light while the tap root pushes its way downward into the
soil. Until the roots are grown, the kernel furnishes food
to the plant.
Seeds may be germinated between layers of moist, warm
flannel, or in small germination dishes, and will make suffici-
ent growth under these conditions for the grower to test
his seeds and determine the percentage of viable seeds.
All seeds which will germinate, that is start into some
growth, will not grow into a good plant. It is only the
seeds producing a strong root and sprout that will grow into
good plants.
Every grower of vegetables should test his seeds before
planting any of them in the ground. A simple and con-
venient method is to take a piece of clean white flannel, dip
it in warm water and wring the water out until it no longer
tern
Stem
Tap Root
FIG. 9 (a). — The Germination of
Corn. The tap root is appearing
and the embryo plant is much in-
creased in size.
Ground Line
FIG. 9 (6). — The Germination of
Corn. Tap root longer and stem
appearing. Note how the stem is
growing upward toward the light
and the root downward into the
soil.
Tap Root
FIG. 9 (c). — The Germination of
Corn. Stem breaking through
the Soil.
FIG. 9 (d).— The Corn Seedling.
26
SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 27
drips from the flannel. Two warm, eight inch plates will
then be needed to contain the flannel. Lay the flannel in
one plate and on one end of it count out a number of seeds.
It is best to use the seeds in lots of from ten to one hundred;
one hundred being the best number to use as a fairer test
can be had from this number of seeds than from any smaller
number. After the seeds have been counted and laid on one
end of the flannel, fold the other end of the flannel over the
seeds so that they are all covered. The second plate should
then be placed over the first plate containing the flannel and
seeds, with the bottom of the plate upwards, and the whole
set aside in a place where the temperature can be kept at
about 70°. The seeds should be examined every day that
the flannel may be kept moist by additions of water, and
all germinated seeds counted and thrown out. The number
of seeds remaining after all the germinated seeds have been
thrown out will determine the percentage of germination
for the lot tested. Thus, if we have one hundred seeds
and twenty remain after the test, we know that eighty per
cent of the seeds are viable and can reasonably be depended
upon to produce plants.
36. The Seed Bed. The seed bed must be carefully
and thoroughly prepared; lumps and coarse material must
be raked out, leaving the surface in a fine, smooth condition.
The seed bed should have a depth of at least four to six
inches of good loam and should be thoroughly pulverized
clear to the bottom. The lighter soils furnish the best con-
ditions for making the seed bed and are more easily gotten
into proper condition than are the heavier soils.
After having thoroughly prepared the seed bed, the con-
ditions necessary for the germination of the planted seeds
are principally heat and moisture. All soil contains some air,
at least a sufficient amount will ordinarily surround a seed
28 MARKET GARDENING
for its use while germinating and growing into a seedling.
The conditions which have to be supplied then are the heat
and the moisture. If the seeds are to be planted in a hot
bed, the ground must be warmed by the use of glass and the
manure under the bed ; if the seeds are to be planted in the
open ground we must depend upon the weather conditions
for the right temperature of the soil. The seeds of the cooler
loving plants such as cabbage, or turnip, may be planted in
cooler soils than such seed as tomato, egg plant or cucumber.
Such seeds as lettuce, spinach, cabbage, beet and
radishes may be sown earlier and under cooler conditions
than may seeds of tomato, corn, egg plant, melons and other
warmth loving plants.
The time for seed sowing depends upon such factors as
condition of the soil, liability for frost and the season. For
such plants as tomatoes, peppers, egg plant, lettuce, cabbage
and other transplanted crops, the time for sowing the seed
under glass is determined largely by the season in which it
is desired to harvest the crops.
37. Planting. In the home garden the seeds are usually
planted by hand by dropping them in the hill or furrow
previously prepared. That the rows may be straight and
a uniform distance apart, the ground should be measured
and staked and a line used in marking out the rows. The
line should be stretched tightly and the corner of a hoe or
the back of a rake used to follow the line and make the pro-
posed furrow. The seeds should be dropped at uniform
intervals; seed held between the thumb and finger may be
dropped evenly with a little practice. For the larger garden,
a seed drill is indispensable for economical planting. The
depth of planting is then easily regulated.
After planting, the soil should be firmed by pressing it
down with the back of a hoe or rake. This is done to restore
SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 29
the capillarity of the soil which has been destroyed by open-
ing the furrow or hill. The seed drill does this by the
pressure of the trail wheel which follows over the planted
row after the seed is covered by the planter wings.
For the best and quickest results the seed should be
planted only in freshly prepared ground. In such ground
the conditions of heat and moisture are at their best and
the seed is placed in surroundings most favorable for quick
germination and the growth of the seedling.
38. Transplanting. To obtain early fruits of such plants
as tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, egg plant and peppers,
it is necessary to plant the seeds early, in a protected loca-
tion, or in a green-house or hot bed, from which the seed-
lings are transplanted one or more times.
Some of the benefits of transplanting are early maturity,
the economical use of the ground by growing seedlings for
transplanting to the field as soon or even before a crop is
taken off, the increase in productiveness that results from
transplanting. A plant that has been transplanted develops
a better root system than one that is not transplanted.
Plants to be transplanted should be allowed to dry out
for at least a day previous to transplanting and watered just
before transplanting. This procedure tends to fill the plants
with water just before disturbing them, it also aids in retain-
ing a ball of earth around the roots. The plants should be
lifted carefully that the system of roots be disturbed and
broken as little as possible. The plants will start easier
and more quickly if a little water is poured around them
when transplanted, or if they can be irrigated after being set.
Before transplanting begins, the field should be carefully
marked that the rows may be straight and properly spaced.
The time to transplant is determined by conditions of the
plants to be transplanted, the weather conditions, conditions
30
MARKET GARDENING
of the soil, whether dry enough, moist enough, warm
enough, or properly prepared. If possible, it is best to
choose a cool or cloudy day for transplanting, or to trans-
\
FIG. 10. — Dibbers for Transplanting.
plant just before a rain. When these conditions are not
to be had, do the transplanting late in the day, rather
than in the morning.
FIG. 11. — Proper Method of Using a Dibber in Transplanting. Note
how the soil is pressed firmly around the roots of the seedling,
When transplanting, set the plants just a little deeper
than they were set previously.
Plants are generally transplanted by hand, a dibber or
SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 31
trowel, Fig. 10, being used to make the hole. After the
seedling is placed, the soil should be pressed firmly around
the roots with the fingers, or with the dibber or trowel
handle as in Fig. 11.
When the gardening operations are small, the trans-
planted plants can easily be shaded for a few days after
being set in the field. Shingles, paper bags, small boxes, or
anything that will cast a shadow may be used for shading.
CHAPTER V
IRRIGATION
39. Moisture Requirements of Plants. Water plays a
most important part in all stages of plant growth. Mois-
ture is necessary for seed germination and is no less necessary
to the seedling and plant. The soil may be properly pre-
pared and there may be an abundance of properly balanced
fertilizer, but unless sufficient moisture is present in the soil
the plant can make but little growth or get but little benefit
from the fertilizer supplied for it.
Water is a solvent of plant foods. It also acts as a
carrier of plant food in solution, and holds plant foods in
solution in the soil. Moisture is necessary for the action
of friendly bacteria, and by carrying solvent acids to the
plant food present in the soil, it makes the plant food avail-
able to the plant.
Vegetables are composed very largely of water; in some
cases they are over 90% water. The plant juice, or sap,
is composed very largely of water, it thereby becoming the
principal agent in the carrying of plant food from the soil
to the various parts of the plant. Enormous quantities of
water are transpired during the life of the plant, several
hundred pounds of water being necessary for the making
of a pound of dry matter.
Irrigation may be looked upon as insurance against
drought. With a plentiful supply of water the gardener is
independent of the uncertainties of rainfall. Sufficient
32
IRRIGATION
33
34
MARKET GARDENING
a,
CQ
I
&
a
.2
_^
f
IRRIGATION 35
moisture insures larger yields, good quality and proper
maturity of the crop. It may mean the difference between
a full crop and practically no crop for the season.
40. Methods of Irrigation. There are several methods
of applying water; the kind of gardening usually determines
the manner of supplying water artificially. Thus, water may
be applied with a hose, in the furrow, or with an overhead
sprinkler system. When the garden is extensive, the hose
method is neither very practicable nor satisfactory. If the
gardening be intensive and the rows are close together, the
furrow method is not practicable owing to the small amount
of room in which to handle the water between the growing
plants. The overhead sprinkler system is by far the best and
most natural method of supplying water. The water is
applied gently, and crops growing in rows close together
can be irrigated successfully in an extensive manner with
this method. The Skinner system, Fig. 13, is the best over-
head system to be had. It consists of overhead pipes that
are perforated and have small nozzles in the perforations.
The pipes may be turned completely around, thus dis-
tributing the water evenly in all directions from the pipe line.
The amount of water to be applied at one time depends
upon the conditions of the soil, the weather, and the crop.
About an inch of water is the limit that should be applied
at one time.
CHAPTER VI
VEGETABLE GARDENS
41. The Home Garden. The home vegetable garden
should be given far greater care and consideration than is
generally accorded it. As a factor tending to lower the
increasing cost of living, the home garden can be of use
practically the year round. No area on the farm is as profit-
able as the home garden. Not only will it furnish vegetables
for the home table but it often will furnish a sufficient supply
for sale to the local market or to the neighbors.
The work done in the home vegetable garden is usually
done at odd times and for this reason the garden should
be located as close to the house as the conditions may permit.
It should also be near the house so that the supply of fresh
vegetables may easily be had at short notice. The garden
should be carefully planned that the area planted may give
the greatest returns for the money expended and the work
done. The perennials such as rhubarb, asparagus, horse
radish, strawberries and such bush fruits as blackberries
and raspberries should be planted at one end of the garden
in order that they may not interfere with the cultivation
and harvesting of the general garden crops. Fig. 14 shows
a good arrangement.
The home vegetable garden is not complete without a
small hot bed in which to grow such crops as radishes and
lettuce, out of season, and for starting such plants as lettuce,
cabbage and tomato plants for transplanting.
36
VEGETABLE GARDENS 37
Asparagus
Blackberries
Raspberries
Strawberries
Tomatoes
Sweet Corn
Peas
Beans
Carrots
Beets
Parsnip
Radishes
Onions
Lettuce
Cucumbers
Melons
FIG. 14. — Plan of Home Vegetable Garden,
38 MARKET GARDENING
The home garden should be thoroughly prepared and
well fertilized for the best results. A heavy dressing of
manure is always essential and will often be the only fer-
tilizer necessary, but a dressing of chemical fertilizer will
give returns far greater than the investment necessary for
its use. Frequent and thorough cultivation should be given
and, as conditions may require it, some form of irrigation
should be practiced. Frequent cultivation largely elimi-
nates the necessity of irrigation as the cultivation maintains
a dust mulch which acts as a conserver of the moisture
already in the soil.
Such crops as carrots, beets, turnips and parsnips are
easily stored either in the ground or in a cool cellar. When
the house cellar contains a furnace, one end of the cellar
may often be partitioned off so that the air in it is constantly
cool and fresh. Root crops stored in cellars should be buried
in moist sand and kept as cool as possible without freezing.
When there is no cellar available for storing the root crops,
pits may be used to advantage. The location of the pit
should be on well-drained soil. A sandy soil is best for this
purpose as it affords good drainage. The pit should be
about three feet deep and the roots should be covered to a
depth of from six to eighteen inches, depending upon the
locality and the season. Ventilation should be provided
by placing short lengths of tile in the pit, slanted away
from the prevailing winds. The tile should extend at least
two inches above the surface of the pit. The soil thrown
over the pit should have sufficient crown to cause it to shed
water easily. Cabbage may be stored in a pit or in a cool
cellar when placed on shelves or in small well-ventilated
bins.
42. School Gardens. As the excellent custom of plant-
ing and caring for vegetable and flower gardens as a part of
VEGETABLE GARDENS 39
school recreation and training is increasing, it is hoped that
this little manual may be found of value as a concise and
practical guide in such work. For this reason, brief sugges-
tions for the planning of the school garden are here given.
When the area available for the school garden is of
sufficient size, the ground should be prepared by the use of
teams. A good dressing of rotted manure should be ploughed
under and this followed by thorough discing. A dressing
of a high grade, complete chemical fertilizer is desirable.
After discing the ground, the surface should be gotten into
condition with the smoothing harrow. If the use of teams
is not possible, the ground may be spaded and raked by hand.
Plots. The individual plots should be laid off by the
use of stakes and a cord to surround each plot and the rows
should be laid off to run across the whole row of plots, that
the row spacing may be uniform. The plots should be
numbered. The size of the plots is often determined by
the area available for the class. The size of the plots may
be determined by the age or previous experience of the
students. The plots vary from six by six feet for the smaller
children up to as large as one hundred feet long and six to
eight feet wide for the older, or more experienced students.
Six feet wide is the most desirable width for the school
garden; plots wider than this are hard to work without
walking on them. The center of a six foot plot can easily
be reached from each side. A path eighteen to twenty-
four inches wide should be left between the plots. This
gives sufficient space in which to work and provides space
into which trash and weeds may be dumped, later to be
hauled away.
It is desirable that the plots be laid out so that the rows
may run north and south rather than east and west. A
north and south row assures for each row an equal amount
40
MARKET GARDENING
o
f
VEGETABLE GARDENS 41
of sunlight. This is quite important in growing tall crops
together with low growing crops.
The planting distance will largely be determined by the
crops grown. Such crops as carrots, beets, radishes, onions
and lettuce may be grown in rows sixteen inches apart.
When carrots, beets, lettuce or other small growing crop
are grown, the radishes or onion sets may be used as fillers,
being set in the center of the sixteen inch rows. This leaves
the rows but eight inches apart. Such crops as beans, peas,
peppers, egg plants and similar size crops should be planted
in rows from eighteen to twenty-four inches apart. Radishes
lettuce and onion sets are fine fillers, or companion crops
to be used with such crops.
The vegetables grown should be of the common kinds
with which most students are more or less familiar. If
desired, flowers may also be grown, one end of each plot
being devoted to them.
Plan. The following plan is suggested for a plot six feet
wide and thirty feet long:
Beginning at one end of the plot lay off twelve rows
sixteen inches apart, and seven rows twenty-four inches
apart. In the sixteen inch rows, plant four rows each of
lettuce, beets and carrots and interplant six rows with
radishes and six rows with onions or onion sets. In the
twenty-four inch rows plant one row each of peas, beans,
cabbage, cauliflower, peppers, egg plant and tomatoes. It
is expected that these larger growing crops will be grown from
transplanted plants rather than from seed. Between the
twenty-four inch rows there may be planted transplanted
beet or lettuce plants. The space should again be divided
by planting radish seed in the center of the twelve inch rows.
Such a plan as outlined will give the student a good working
knowledge in the handling of seeds, and plants for trans-
42 MARKET GARDENING
planting, and will afford an example of intensive gardening
and in the use of companion crops.
Tools. The tool equipment should consist of a sufficient
number of small garden hoes, hand weeders, trowels and
dibbles so that each student may have proper tools for each
operation. The garden hoes should be light, yet strong, and
not too wide as they must be used in rows as close as six
inches. A number of rakes must be available for use in
preparing the plots for planting. It is highly desirable that
a number of wheel hoes and seed drills be available for
planting the gardens, at least in part, and for cultivating.
There are a number of desirable combination seed drills and
wheel hoes on the market, the most desirable of which are
those in which the seed drill or the wheel-hoe attachment
may be used entirely independent of each other. It is
not expected that all of the planting will be done by the use
of the seed drills but the student should have sufficient use
of these tools to become familiar with them.
CHAPTER VII
STORING AND PACKING
43. Storage Cellars and Pits. That the greatest returns
from the vegetable garden may be had, a considerable por-
tion of many of the crops must be stored and held for sale
during the winter months. Such crops as beets, carrots,
turnips, celery, cabbage and potatoes are easily held if
properly stored.
The root cellar is the most common storage. This may
be a cellar under a barn or house, or it may be a pit sub-
stantially walled and roofed to equip it for permanent use.
The cellar or pit should be frost proof and so located that
perfect drainage is had. Provision must also be made for
ventilation. During the early fall and in the spring, the
temperature of the storage is dependent upon the ventilation,
the doors and ventilators being opened at night and closed
early in the morning that the cool air of the night may be
held during the day.
44. Storing Root Crops. The root crops to be stored
must be handled carefully to avoid unnecessary bruising.
The tops should not be cut too close to the root; about one
inch from the root is the right length to cut the tops. Do
not expose the roots to the air longer than is necessary
before moving them to the storage. Clean, moist sand
must be provided for covering and burying the roots. The
roots should be cool when placed in the storage. Root
crops can be held in good condition in open bins if the air
43
44
MARKET GARDENING
STORING AND PACKING 45
surrounding them can be kept cool and moist; however,
there is certain to be considerable loss when root crops are
held uncovered because the top and outer layers will dry out
and sprout. As the roots are brought in from the field, they
should be covered to a depth of about six inches with the
moist sand. Keep the air in the cellar as cool as possible
without freezing.
45. Celery. Celery is usually stored in temporary pits
and houses as in Figs. 17 and 18. A satisfactory celery pit
may be made by digging a trench about six feet long, thirty
inches deep and as long as may be necessary for the accomo-
dation of the crop. The celery is lifted with most of the
roots intact and placed in the pit as closely as possible, tho
pit is then covered with boards, provision being made for
ventilation. As the weather becomes more severe, the cover-
ing is made frost proof with mats, blankets or strawy manure
and soil. When celery is stored in large amounts, a good
storage can be made by constructing a temporary, even span,
house out of boards used in blanching the early celery. The
roof may be covered with any available trash from the fields
such as tomato tops, or strawy manure, and earth thrown
over all. A covering of earth should be added to as the
season advances and the cold becomes more severe. A
narrow walk is left through the center of the storage for the
convenience of the workmen in getting out the celery; this
is generally provided by staking up planks to hold the celery
in place.
Cellars provide excellent storage for celery, the celery
being held in place with planking. The celery roots may be
partly buried, or set on top of the ground as is done when the
plants are placed in a pit. The plants should be placed
close together.
46. Onions and Cabbage. Onions are usually stored in
46
MARKET GARDENING
STORING AND PACKING
47
GC
48
MARKET GARDENING
well insulated houses constructed for the purpose. The
best practice is to use crates holding about one bushel each,
FIG. 19.— Bushel Box.
FIG. 20.— Six-basket Crate; Six-quart Baskets.
although shallow, well ventilated bins are sometimes used.
Ample ventilation must be provided and the temperature
must be kept as near 33° as possible. Onions will not stand
STOKING AND PACKING
49
freezing and thawing, but if kept frozen they will be of good
quality when thawed, if used at once.
Cabbage should be stored in cool, well ventilated cellars.
Narrow bins may be used for holding the cabbage. The
temperature should be kept low and a constant supply of
fresh air should be provided. Cabbage may be stored in
pits, all of the outer leaves being left on the heads, The
FIG. 21. — Six-basket Crate; Four-quart Baskets.
heads should first be covered with straw and then earth
should be placed over them. The depth of the covering
must be increased as the weather becomes more severe.
When removing vegetables from pits, or other temporary
storage, care must be exercised that the remainder of the
vegetables are not chilled or frozen.
47. Packing. The package most generally used for
local marketing is the bushel box, Fig. 19. It is a durable
50
MARKET GARDENING
package and lends itself to the safe carrying and delivery to
market of a great variety of crops. The bushel box is easy
to handle and to load on a wagon, or truck, or to handle in
shipping by express or freight.
Crates are used for such vegetables as asparagus and
celery when packed for long shipment. The size of the crate
varies with the demands of the market and the locality
FIG. 22.— Barrel Hamper.
served. Cabbages and cauliflower also are often shipped in
crates, although barrels are quite generally employed in
shipping these two crops.
Bushel baskets of various designs are used for shipping
such crops as peas, string beans and spinach. The basket
is usually of the "peach basket " type and has a light
wooden cover, easily attached.
There are a number of special packages on the market
STORING AIS'D PACKING
51
52 MARKET GARDENING
which are often of much value for use in a local market.
Tomatoes are often packed in small baskets which are
crated for shipment, as in Fig. 20. The crate usually holds
six baskets although some crates are large enough to hold
twelve baskets in two tiers of six baskets each. The cost
of such a crate, with the baskets, runs from twenty-five
cents to thirty cents each. The cost is too high for general
use, and such a package can be used profitably only when
crops are grown and shipped out of season and the returns
are proportionately higher than normal.
Tomatoes sold in small baskets, holding about ten pounds
each, of which there are six baskets to the crate, as in Fig. 21,
should be wrapped in thin paper wrappers for the best result.
The wrapper may be used to advertise the grower and to
establish a brand. Tomatoes which are wrapped will carry
better and open up in better condition than will tomatoes
which are not wrapped. Only hot house grown fruit will
usually justify the use of expensive packages and the wrap-
ping of each fruit.
CHAPTER VIII
CROPS
I. ASPARAGUS
Propagation. Asparagus beds, or plantations, are usually
established by planting one year old plants. Two year
old plants which cost more are often planted, but the one
year crowns give the best results and should be used in
starting an asparagus plantation.
The seed should be the best obtainable and is best sown
with a seed drill in rows not less than sixteen inches apart
for hand cultivation, nor less than thirty inches apart for
horse cultivation. The ground selected for a seed bed should
be a rich mellow loam, free from stones or rubbish. The
seed should not be covered deeper than one and one-half
inches. Do not sow the seed too thickly. The plants for
best development should stand not less than two inches
apart in the row, three or four inches apart would be better.
The plants should be lifted in the fall and stored in a root
cellar covered with moist sand.
Planting. The field selected for an asparagus bed
should be a rich deep loam, thoroughly cultivated, as free
as possible from stones or rubbish of any kind. Previous to
planting, the field should be heavily fertilized with well
rotted manure. This should be supplemented by a liberal
application of high grade, complete fertilizer. Nitrate of
soda should be applied at intervals during the growing sea-
son. Spring planting is generally practiced.
53
54 MARKET GARDENING
The crowns should be set in furrows, six to twelve inches
deep, depending upon the depth of the top soil. It is not
advisable ever to make furrows so deep that the roots will
be in or very near the sub-soil. Eight to ten inches is the
average depth of planting. The reason for deep planting
is that, as the crowns renew themselves each year, they come
nearer the surface. Deep planting also places the crown
deep enough so that the plantation can be cultivated by a
disc harrow without injury to the crowns. Deep planting
thus insures a longer life for the plantation than shallow
planting.
After the furrows are made, make sure that there is a
layer of good soil in the bottom of the furrow on which to
place the crowns. Spread the fleshy roots out so that their
position will be as nearly as possible that in which they
grew in the seed bed. Cover the crowns to a depth of two
or three inches, firming the soil well over the roots. The
crowns should not be covered any deeper until the shoots
come through the ground, when the furrows may be gradually
filled in by cultivation. The furrows can usually be leveled
by the cultivation practiced the first season, in any event
the ground should be leveled by fall.
Distance to Plant. In good rich soil the rows may
be four feet apart and the plants set two to three feet apart
in the row. Planting distances vary in different localities
and states, but the average distance is two and one-half to
four feet.
Cultivation. As early as the ground can be worked,
thoroughly cultivate the field with a disc harrow. The soil
should be kept well cultivated through the growing season
as long as horse-drawn tools can be used without much
injury to the tops. Hand hoeing may be necessary at times
but it is not generally practiced on large plantations.
CROPS 55
Ridging. There are two kinds of asparagus mar-
keted, green and blanched grass. Blanched grass is produced
by cutting the shoots as soon as the tips show above ground ;
green grass is produced by cutting the shoots as soon as
they have grown to the required length above ground. The
shoots may be cut at the surface of the ground or just below
the surface. Whether blanched grass or green grass, is
desired, the practice is to ridge the ground over the rows.
The ridges should be higher for producing blanched grass
than for producing green grass. The purpose of the ridge
is primarily to gain a greater length of stalk of blanched
grass.
Harvesting. A light cutting of asparagus may be had
the second year, if plenty of fertilizer is applied to the
plantation. The third year the cutting may continue from
three to four weeks. As the plantation becomes older, the
cutting season is extended until it may continue from eight
to ten weeks.
The shoots are gathered by cutting them off with a
sharp knife. When blanched grass is desired, the knife is
passed down the stalk until the required length is attained,
when the shoot is cut off. The stalks should be cut long
enough to make bunches six to ten inches long. The num-
ber of stalks to the bunch varies, but the bunches should
be four and one-half inches in diameter, and weigh two and
one-half to three pounds.
Yield. The yield per acre varies; 1500 to 2000 bunches
per acre being considered excellent yields. The returns
often run as high as $500.00 per acre, but the average is
$200.00 to $250.00 per acre, for plantations in their prime.
Fertilizers. During the cutting season, nitrate of soda
should be sown along the rows, or broadcasted, in three
or four applications, After the cutting season is over,
56 MARKET GARDENING
apply 1000 to 2000 pounds per acre of a high grade fertilizer.
In the fall broadcast rotted manure at the rate of at least
20 cords per acre and let it lay on the ground over the winter.
The manure should be disced in in the spring,
II. BEANS
Soils. Beans do well on almost any kind of soil if
it contains a reasonable quantity of humus. Light, well-
drained soils, however, are especially desirable. Bush beans
do best in sandy soils. Lima beans are the most difficult
to grow as they require a long season to reach maturity and
are very susceptible to adverse conditions, such as wet
ground at the time of planting or continued cold weather.
Planting. Beans should not be planted until danger
of frost is passed and the ground is well warmed, although
the bush varieties are more resistant to cold than are the
pole beans. Beans may be planted in hills or drills as
desired. The distance between rows of bush beans, where
horse cultivation is practiced, is thirty inches to thirty-six
inches. When hand cultivation is practiced, it is best not
to plant in rows closer than eighteen or twenty inches. The
seed should be of the best quality. Pole beans should be
planted in hills three or four feet apart.
Bush beans are usually planted in a drill, the depth of
planting varying with the kind of soil and the season of
planting, from one inch in heavy soils to three inches in
lighter soils.
Use of Supports. Wire trellises may be used, or
poles seven feet or more in height, for the support of the
pole beans. The bark should be left on the poles that the
beans may have a rough surface on which to cling.
Cultivation. Frequent and thorough cultivation should
CROPS 57
be practiced. It should be borne in mind, however, that
the bean is a shallow -rooted plant, and that the cultivation
must be carefully done to avoid breaking the roots.
Harvesting. Snap or shell beans must be gathered
by hand. Half -bushel baskets are convenient for this pur-
pose. Field beans may be pulled by hand or harvested by
machines that cut the plants off close to the ground and
leave them in windrows. After cutting, the beans are
allowed to cure until in the proper condition to run through
a threshing machine.
Snap or shell beans are marketed in baskets or boxes
holding a bushel each. Dry or field beans are generally
marketed in sacks. Previous to sacking, the beans are run
through machines that remove the dirt and rubbish.
Varieties. There are many varieties of beans and the
grower, in selecting his varieties, will do best to choose
such varieties as have been proven adapted to the conditions
under which he intends to grow them.
Fertilizers. Nitrogenous fertilizers are not required to
any extent for beans. A complete fertilizer containing
2% or 3% of nitrogen, 8% potash and 10% of phosphoric
acid, is well adapted to fertilizing beans. This should be
used at the rate of 500 to 1500 pounds per acre.
To maintain the supply of humus, cover crops may be
grown and ploughed under, or stable manure ploughed in
at the rate of 10 to 15 cords per acre.
III. BEETS
Soil. Beets do best in light soils; sandy loams being
particularly desirable. Such soils produce a crop early,
with roots smooth and free from fibrous roots. Heavy
soils tend to irregular shaped roots and to the production
58
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CHOPS 59
of many fibrous roots. If beets are being grown for a local
market, not too discriminating, they may be a profitable
crop when grown in any good soil.
Planting. Beets are a cold-loving vegetable and may,
therefore, be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can
be gotten into good condition. The seed should be the best
quality obtainable and should be sown in drills, not too
thickly. The rows should be fourteen to sixteen inches
apart. The distance between plants in the row will depend
upon the size of root desired. It is a good plan to sow the
seed rather thickly, thin them when six to eight inches high,
and sell the thinnings for greens. The next pulling would
be for early bunch beets and the final harvest would be of
the roots near maturity or when fully grown.
Transplanting. Eeets transplant easily and to good
advantage in sandy loams. The plants should be grown
from four to six weeks in a hot bed or greenhouse before
transplanting. Handle the seedling carefully, the more
careful the handling, the fewer fibrous roots will be found.
The plants should be well hardened before moving them to
the field. If well hardened, they will stand freezing without
damage.
Marketing. Early beets are always sold in bunches,
the number in a bunch varies from four to ten, depending
upon the season and the size of the roots. More mature
beets are sold by the bushel box. The tops are cut off at
least an inch from the root.
Fertilizers. Early beets should grow very quickly.
The beets for storage need not be grown so rapidly, but
should maintain a steady growth. Nitrogenous fertilizers
are necessary for earliness, but a more balanced fertilizer
is best for the later crop. The ground should have a heavy
dressing of stable manure at the rate of at least 20 cords to
60
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-a
CROPS 61
the acre. This should be supplemented by the application
of a high grade complete fertilizer containing 4% nitrogen,
8% phosphorus, and 10% potash, and used at the rate of a
ton to the acre.
Storage. Beets may be stored in pits, out of doors,
or in cellars, buried in moist sand. The roots are pulled
and the tops cut about an inch long. The roots should
be kept in storage at about 33° F.
IV. CABBAGE
Planting. Cabbage is a transplanted crop, the seed
being planted in greenhouses or hot beds for the first crop
and in a protected location out of doors, or in a hot bed, for
the later crop. The plants are ready for transplanting when
six to eight weeks old. For early planting, the seed should
be sown about March first and transplanted to two by two
inches when the first true leaves appear. The plants may
be set in the field as soon as the ground can be gotten in
condition in the spring. If properly hardened before plant-
ing out, they will stand frost without any damage. The
seed for the late crop is generally planted abaut June first.
The seed should be planted in a protected Io2ation but the
plants need not necessarily be transplanted until ready for
the field. The selection of the seed for the cabbage crop is
most important in order that the strain or type of head
desired may be produced.
Planting distances vary with the variety of cabbage
grown. Early varieties may be set as close as fifteen by
twenty-eight inches, the later sorts should be set farther
apart up to twenty-four by thirty-six inches.
Soil. Cabbages do best in the heavier, cooler kinds
of soil, plenty of moisture being of great importance for the
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Q
CROPS 63
successful growing of this crop. The ground should be well
prepared before planting cabbages.
Cultivation. Cultivation should begin as soon as the
plants are set in the field and continue as long as the
spreading plants will permit.
Harvesting. The time of harvesting depends upon
the size of heads desired. The grower is largely influenced
by the market conditions. Small heads may often be cut
to advantage, particularly if the cabbage are sold by the
head; however, it seldom pays to cut small heads for sale
by the barrel.
The heads are usually gathered by cutting them off with
a butcher knife. The outer leaves should be broken down,
the head pushed to one side and the stem cut close to the
head. For immediate sale, the outer leaves should all be
removed, but when the cabbage are to be stored, some or
all of the outer leaves should be retained. When stored in
pits, the stump is pulled with the head and the whole plant
placed in the pit. Cabbages to be stored in cellars are
gathered with some of the outer leaves on and placed in
narrow, well ventilated bins. The temperature should be
kept at 33° F.
There are a number of types of cabbage grown, the most
common of which are Wakefield, Flat Dutch, Ball Head,
Savoy and Red Cabbage. The Wakefield group contains
the earlier varieties, the other types contain the later
varieties.
Fertilizers. Cabbages are gross feeders and need an
abundance of quickly available plant food for their proper
development. Fifteen to twenty-five cords of manure per
acre should be ploughed under and a dressing of 1500
to 2000 pounds of a high grade complete fertilizer applied
just previous to the final harrowing. An application
64 MARKET GARDENING
of 150 pounds of nitrate of soda may be made with
benefit after the plants have been set three to five
weeks.
V. BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Brussels sprouts require about the same treatment as
do cabbage. They require a somewhat longer period for
development than is required for late cabbage and the plants
should be set in the field at least ten days earlier than the
late crop of cabbage. Brussels sprouts are a hardy crop and
the main cutting does not occur until late in the fall. In
some localities the cutting continues throughout the winter.
The little heads develop in the axils of the leaves and the
crop is gathered as it matures, several cuttings being had
from each plant. The lower leaves should be broken or cut
off as the heads develop. When the climate is severe the
plants may be lifted and planted in loam or sand in cellars.
Such a practice is not of general use but is confined to small
crops or for family use.
The plants should be set the same distances as for
cabbage, the ground being rich in quickly available plant
food. The sprouts are ready for cutting as soon as of proper
size. They are usually marketed in small baskets such as
strawberry baskets. The top layer should be carefully faced.
VI. CAULIFLOWER
Soils. Cauliflower can be grown sucessfully on a
variety of soils. It does best on rather heavy, clayey soils,
and attains to its highest development in such soils, par-
ticularly if planted near a large body of water. Low lands
bordering lakes or the ocean, are very favorable locations
for growing cauliflower.
CHOPS
65
FIG, 27.— Brussels Sprouts.
66 MARKET GARDENING
Planting. For the early crop, the seed must be sown
in hot beds or in a green-house, about March 1st. The
seedlings are transplanted to two inches apart. The soil
in which the seeds are sown and in which the seedlings
are transplanted, must be carefully selected so that no damp-
ing off fungi are introduced. Soil sterilization is sometimes
resorted to that the soil may be free from diseases.
The seedlings must be grown under the most favorable
conditions that they may not in any way be checked ; plants
that have been checked produce small, imperfect heads.
The plants should not be set in the field until danger of hard
frosts is passed'. Planting distances vary from two by three
to three by three and one-half feet depending upon the
variety grown and the kind of cultivation to be practised.
Fertilizers. Cauliflower requires an abundant supply
of quickly available plant food. A heavy application of
rotted stable manure should be ploughed under, and from
1000 to 2000 pounds of a high grade, complete fertilizer
should be harrowed in previous to setting the plants in
the field. After the plants are well established, nitrate of
soda at the rate of 150 to 200 pounds per acre, should be
sown along the rows, or broad casted, two or three times
during the growing season.
As soon as the heads begin to form, the outer leaves
should be drawn together over the head and tied with raffia
or string. This is done to protect the head from rain and
sunlight, in order to produce clean, white heads.
Harvesting. Cauliflower may be cut at any time after
the heads are of sufficient size to supply the demands
of the market or consumer. The heads should be cut low
enough and with enough stump so that they will have a
layer of leaves surrounding them. The leaves are trimmed
off even with the head or a little beyond it. The leaves
CROPS 67
serve as a protection for the heads in shipment and hand-
ling.
Cauliflower is marketed in barrels, bushel boxes and
crates.
VII. CELERY
Planting. In the North, the seed for the early crop
should be sown from March 1st to March 15th. The seed
should be sown in flats containing finely prepared soil well
filled with humus, the seed being very small, and the seedlings
not strong enough to push through soils that will pack with
watering. As soon as the plants are about one inch high,
they should be transplanted to two inches apart each way,
in flats containing rich soil well supplied with humus.
Seed for the late crop may be sown in the open as soon
as the ground can be prepared in the spring.
Distance. The distance between plants in the row
in the field is from four to twelve inches, depending upon
the variety of celery grown. The early or smaller sorts may
be set closer than the late or winter varieties.
The distance between rows varies with the varieties and
the manner of blanching the celery.
Early celery that is to be blanched by staking boards,
or heavy paper, against the plants, may be set in rows
twenty-four to thirty inches apart. Late celery that is to
be blanched, or partly blanched, by banking with earth,
should not be set in rows closer than four feet, that there
may be sufficient soil to plough up to the plants.
Planting. The plants should not be set in the field
until danger of hard frosts is passed. Mature plants will
stand slight freezing with little danger, particularly if covered
with soil, but if the plants are severely frosted their keeping
quality is impaired.
68
MARKET GARDENING
'
a,
I M
CROPS 69
A good plan for planting early and late celery is to set
the two kinds in alternate rows two feet apart. The early
celery is to be blanched with boards, or heavy paper, staked
against the plants. The early celery is harvested before the
late celery needs much banking, leaving the late celery in
rows four feet apart.
Fertilizers. Celery is a heavy feeder on nitrogenous
fertilizers, and applications of at least 25 cords per acre of
rotted manure should be made for this crop. A complete
high grade fertilizer, containing 4-8-10, should be applied
at the rate of 1500 to 3000 pounds per acre previous to
planting. Nitrate of soda should be sown along the rows
at the rate of 200 pounds per acre at intervals after the
plants are well established.
Cultivation. The ground should be kept thoroughly
cultivated from the time that the plants are set in the field
until the time of harvest. Celery requires large quantities
of water, and unless there is a sufficient normal supply,
irrigation must be practiced to insure a good crop.
Harvesting. Celery is ready for harvesting as soon as
sufficiently blanched, so long as the plants are of sufficient
size. The plants may be dug up with a spade, as in Fig. 28,
or ploughed out, or dug with a small tree digger which
straddles the row as shown in Fig. 29. The tree digger is
very effective in harvesting celery on a big scale. It loosens
the plants, cutting off only a small part of the roots, and does
not break the stalks as is usually the case when the plants
are ploughed out.
Preparing for Market. The roots are trimmed off
to a wedge shape, the unblanched or broken stalks are
stripped off, and if the plants are small, several of them are
tied into a bunch. Celery should be thoroughly washed
before bunching or packing for market.
70
MARKET GARDENING
CROPS 71
Blanching. As has been indicated, celery may be
blanched by banking with soil, or by staking boards, or heavy
paper along the rows. Early celery cannot often be success-
fully blanched by banking with soil, but must be blanched
with boards or paper. Blanching must begin in warm
weather, and banking with soil at this time will cause the
celery to rust. The lumber used for blanching should be
good, straight boards one foot wide, ten to twelve feet
long. The boards are placed against the plants and drawn
together at the top and held in position by staking, or by
forcing stiff, heavy pieces of wire, bent into the shape of a
hairpin, down the outside of the boards. Recently, a
heavy grade of paper, similar to prepared roofing, has been
on the market, cut one foot wide and in varying lengths. The
cost is about $15.00 per thousand feet. The paper also is
held in place by using heavy wire hairpins, and is con-
sidered equal to boards for blanching. It is easy to
place in position, and can be rolled up and stored in a small
space in the fall.
Late celery is blanched, or partly blanched, in the field,
by banking with soil. The soil may be ploughed up to the
plants with a plough or a wing cultivator. A celery banker
is an effective implement to use in ploughing the soil up to
and against the plants. It has a wire guard that forces the
tops back and holds them in place until the soil has been
pushed against the plants.
Storing. Celery to be blanched in storage is only
partly blanched in the field. The plants are lifted with most
of their roots, and after the broken and crooked stalks are
stripped off, the plants are placed in cellars, pits, or any
building where the roots can be set in moist soil and the
temperature kept low. Just above the freezing point is the
most desirable temperature. The plants should be set as
72
MARKET GARDENING
CROPS 73
closely together as possible, the roots being covered with
soil. The plants should be held in place by staking up
boards and setting the plants against them. It is a good
plan to leave an alley six inches wide every ten to twelve
feet, to provide good air drainage. The air surrounding the
plants should be kept moist, and if the plants become too
dry, water the soil, being careful not to wet the plants more
than is necessary. Celery will continue to grow and to
blanch in storage if the temperature is kept a few degrees
above freezing.
VIII. CUCUMBERS
Soil. In the lighter soils, cucumbers will produce
earlier, but in the heavier soils the bearing will be heavier
and over a longer period. The soil should be thoroughly
cultivated before planting the seed.
Planting. The seed should not be planted until danger
of frosts is passed. A plan followed by some growers is
to plant early and make successive plantings a week apart;
all plants not required are afterwards cut out with a hoe.
The seeds may be planted in hills or in drills, the distance
between hills being four by five to six by six feet. Plants
in the drill are thinned to twelve to sixteen inches apart.
Fertilizer. The soil should be well manured before
ploughing, and just previous to the last harrowing before
planting, 1000 to 2000 pounds of a high grade, complete
fertilizer should be applied.
The cucumber requires potash and phosphoric acid to
insure fruitfulness; a 4-8-10 fertilizer is well adapted to
this crop.
Harvesting. When cucumbers are grown for pickles,
the picking should begin as soon as the fruits are of the
MARKET GARDENING
.2
CROPS 75
desired size. For slicing, cucumbers should not usually be
gathered until at least six inches long. Whether the cucum-
bers are grown for pickles or for slicing purposes they should
be gathered at least twice a week to secure uniformity in
the size of the fruits.
Cultivation. Cultivation should begin as soon as the
plants break the ground and should continue as long as
possible without too great injury to the vines.
IX. DANDELION
Planting. The dandelion is a hardy crop and may
be planted early in the spring or in the early fall for spring
cutting. When grown in the fall, the seed should be sown
early enough so that the plants will be nearly full grown by
the time hard freezing weather occurs. It is desirable to
mulch lightly with straw, although mulching is not necessary
for the successful wintering of this crop.
Soil. The leaves are the edible portion of this plant
and the ground selected for dandelions should be rich and
friable. The seed should be planted in rows sixteen to
eighteen inches apart, and when planted in the rows for
growing to maturity the seedlings should be thinned to at
least six inches apart. The seed may be planted in a seed
bed and the plants transplanted as desired.
Harvesting. Fall grown dandelions are ready for har-
vesting as soon as the season opens in the spring. They
may be cut with a knife by hand or by the use of a sharpened
shuffle hoe as shown in Fig. 31. The plants should be care-
fully washed and packed in bushel boxes or baskets for
marketing,
76 MARKET GARDENING
X. EGG PLANT
Soil. The lighter soils only are adapted to the growing
of egg plant, heavy soils being too cold for this vegetable.
The 'soil should be rich in humus, should be deep, and
should have a southern exposure to insure warmth.
Starting the Plants. The egg plant must be started
under glass, to be ready for the field by early June. The
seed should be sown in flats, or a good seed bed, about the
middle of March and the seedlings should be pricked out
to two by two inches. The temperature must be kept high,
not less than 65° F. at any time. The plants must maintain
a steady growth; if checked in any way the yield will be
far short of normal.
Planting. The plants should not be set in the field
until the ground is thoroughly warmed. The distance
between plants should be two by three 'to four by four feet.
Fertilizer. A liberal supply of nitrogen is necessary
for the quick growth of the plants. The soil should be rich
in humus; at least 20 cords to the acre of rotted manure
should be ploughed under. An application of 1000 to 2000
pounds per acre of a high grade, complete fertilizer should
be made and harrowed in previous to planting. A top
dressing of nitrate of soda, at the rate of 200 pounds per
acre, may be made after the plants have become well estab-
lished.
XI. HORSE-RADISH
Desirability. In old-fashioned gardens, horse-radish
was considered one of the essential vegetables and its pop-
ularity still exists, the ground-up roots mixed with vinegar
being much relished as a sauce with cold meats and shell
fish. In the home garden, horse-radish is usually grown in
CROPS
77
78 MARKET GARDENING
a corner, or beside a fence out of the way, where it is allowed
to grow at will.
Planting. Commercially, this crop is grown quite ex-
tensively in some sections. The method of propogation is
to plant the small side roots with a dibble. Any piece of
root, an inch or more long, will produce a plant and root of
good size. The most desirable size root for planting is a
piece the size of a lead pencil, four to six inches long.
Horse-radish may be grown as a main or as a companion
crop. When grown as a main crop, the roots are set in rows
twenty-four to thirty inches apart, and the roots set ten to
twelve inches apart in the row. Horse-radish and early
cabbage make excellent companions and are largely so grown
in the Eastern states. The cabbage and horse-radish being
set alternately in the row, the cabbages mature and are out
of the way so that the horse-radish has the land to itself
during the latter part of the season.
Harvesting and Marketing. The roots are ploughed
out in the fall and the tops are trimmed off. The roots are
then buried in moist sand to await manufacture into sauce.
The larger roots are ground up, the smaller roots being
saved for propogation. Some growers sell the roots while
others grind up the roots and bottle the product. The
market is limited for horse-radish, but, in favorable locations,
it is a profitable crop. The yield varies from three to five
or six tons per acre and the price varies largely with the
season, the quality of the roots and the demand for them.
XII. LETTUCE
Soil. Lettuce may be grown successfully in most
soils, if well supplied with rotted manure and liberally
fertilized with high grade, chemical fertilizers. Light sandy
CHOPS
79
80 MARKET GARDENING
soils that have had heavy dressings of manure are best
adapted to growing this crop.
Starting the Plants. Lettuce may be transplanted
or grown to maturity where sown. For transplanting, the
seed should be sown eight to ten weeks before the plants are
to be set in the field. The seed should be sown in flats or
in a seed bed and the seedlings should be grown under rather
cool conditions.
Planting. The plants may be set in the field as soon
as the ground can be gotten into shape in the spring.
The plants should not be set less than a foot apart each way
in the field. In hot beds or cold frames, the distance is
usually nine by nine inches.
Fertilizer. Heavy applications of rotted manure should
be ploughed under. Lettuce does very well, however,
if rather fresh manure is used. In any event, for best results,
the soil should be well filled with humus. An application
of 1000 to 2000 pounds of a high grade complete fertilizer
should be made and harrowed in previous to planting. Top
dressings of 200 pounds of nitrate of soda to the acre should
be made at intervals, after the plants are well established.
Season. Lettuce is a cool weather crop and should be
grown only in the spring and fall for heading purposes.
The plants will stand several degrees of freezing with no
harm, if they have been well hardened before setting in
the field.
Harvesting. Lettuce is commonly gathered by pull-
ing up the plants, which are then taken to the packing
shed and thoroughly washed, after which the roots are cut
"off, smoothly, just below the lowest leaves. After washing
and trimming, the plants are put into crates, baskets or
boxes, for shipping to market.
Varieties. There are two general types of lettuce;
CROPS 81
head lettuce and loose leaf, or non-heading lettuce. What
variety shall be grown is a question to be decided by the
market demands. Tennis Ball and the numerous strains
of this variety are generally grown for head lettuce. Grand
Rapids and other loose leaf varieties are grown for loose
headed lettuce. Cos Lettuce is an excellent kind rapidly
coming into favor. It is an upright grower with a compact
head. The leaves are crisp and tender, and possess a fine
flavor.
XIII. MUSKMELON
Soil. Muskmelons may be grown successfully on a
variety of soils, but the lighter soils, well filled with humus,
are preferred. Climatic conditions are apparently of more
influence than soils on this crop, the muskmelon not stand-
ing frosts. Hot days and warm nights are very favorable
for its rapid development. Care must be had that sufficient
water is available at all times as a lack of moisture is sure
to cause weakened plants and fruits of small size. In the
West, where alkali is present, irrigation must not be too late
or the flavor of the fruit will be hurt.
Planting. Plant the seed in the open only after all
danger of frost is passed. To secure the earliest results,
successive plantings at intervals of a week may be made,
and the undesired plants may be pulled or hoed out.
A plan followed by many growers is to start the seed in
pots or small baskets, not over four weeks before the time
for setting the plants in the field. The plants are grown in
hot beds or green-houses, and the temperature during the
last week is kept as nearly as possible the same as that
prevailing in the field.
The plants are carefully removed from the pots or baskets
with all the earth in which they have grown, care being taken
82 MARKET GARDENING
that the ball of earth is broken or disturbed as little as
possible. Plants started early will produce marketable
fruits a week to ten days ahead of their normal season.
Planting distances vary from five by five to six by seven
feet. The common practice is to plant six by six feet. Do
not make hills; level culture is preferable.
Picking. For a local market, the fruit may be allowed
to remain attached to the vines until fully ripened. For
long shipments, the fruit should be gathered as soon as
it may be separated from the vine. As ripening occurs,
the stem gradually loosens its attachment to the melon,
and when fully ripe, it will often become detached because
of the weight of the vine alone.
Fertilizer. Stable manures are the best sources of
plant food for the muskmelon, the plants doing best in
soils containing an abundance of organic matter. Care must
be taken not to fertilize too heavily with nitrogenous fer-
tilizers. An excess of nitrogen causes large growth of vine
at the expense of fruitfulness.
A high grade, complete fertilizer should be applied at
the rate of about 1000 pounds per acre, just before
planting.
XIV. ONIONS
Soil. Rich bottom lands, composed of fine alluvial soil,
are especially desirable plots in which to grow onions.
Muck or peat soils also give excellent yields of onions, and
large areas of such soils are now used for the production of
this vegetable. The lighter or sandy loams are very de-
sirable for onion growing if they contain plenty of organic
matter. Clay or silt soils are not desirable because of
their tendency to bake and pack after the seed are sown.
CROPS
83
84 MARKET GARDENING
The soil should be very thoroughly prepared. Fall plough-
ing is universally practiced in onion growing sections.
Planting. The bulk of the onion crop is produced
from seed sown in the spring. Sowing should begin as soon
as the ground can be gotten in proper condition. The seeds
are sown with a hand drill in rows, twelve to sixteen inches
apart, when hand cultivation is practiced. For horse cul-
tivation, the rows should be twenty-four to .thirty inches
apart. A small well-trained mule may be used to cultivate
in rows as close together as eighteen inches.
The amount of seed to use per acre will depend upon
whether the land is favorable to the growth of the seedlings,
the season and the quality of the seed. The seed should
always be tested to determine its viability. When good
seed is used and the rows are fourteen inches apart, four
pounds of seed per acre should be sufficient.
Early onions are grown from sets, which may be planted
in the fall or spring. Tree onion sets may be planted in
the fall. Sets grown from seed sown very thick, so as to
produce very small bulbs, should be planted in the spring.
The sets planted in the spring should be placed in the
ground as soon as it can be gotten into shape for planting.
Fall planted sets should be put out four to six weeks before
hard freezing weather.
Sets are planted for bunching onions, or for the pro-
duction of early mature onions. Bunching onions are also
grown from seed.
Cultivation. The cultivation should begin even before
the seedlings appear, and should continue throughout
the growing season. The cultivation should be shallow
so as not to disturb the onion roots, which are close to
the surface.
Onion cultivation is carried on almost entirely by hand
CROPS 85
labor. At the first weeding, the surplus seedlings should
be removed so that the plants will stand about two inches
apart in the row. Hand-wheel hoes, Fig. 34, either single
or double-wheel, are necessary for cultivating onions grown
in narrow rows.
Onion Sets. Onion sets are produced by sowing seed
very thickly on the ground not very rich nor too well
supplied with moisture. The seedlings have to compete
so severely with one another and against unfavorable con-
ditions, that the bulbs never attain to any great size. As
soon as the tops begin to turn yellow, the sets are harvested,
dried and topped.
Multiplier or Perennial Tree onions produce sets on
their tops. These are used the same as sets grown from
seed. As has been indicated, Perennial Tree onions are
very hardy and may be planted in the fall, six to eight
weeks before hard freezing weather sets in. After the
ground freezes, the sets should be covered with a light
mulch of straw or strawy manure.
Harvesting. Onions for bunching, should be pulled
as soon as the bulbs are of sufficient size. The number
of plants to the bunch will depend upon the size of the
plants and upon market requirements.
Dry onions should be allowed to ripen until the tops
die down before being pulled. The general practice, how-
ever, where large areas are to be harvested, is to begin
pulling the onions as soon as the tops are yellow. The
onions are pulled and thrown into a windrow. The onions
are allowed to dry, or cure, in the windrow for several days,
or until the tops are dry enough to easily be twisted off.
They are then ready for topping, grading, sacking, and
storing.
Onions in storage, require cool, dry conditions. The
86
MARKET GARDENING
8
D
CROPS 87
temperature should not drop below 32°, about 35° being
the best temperature to maintain.
Transplanting Onions. The Spanish type of onions
are profitably grown by transplanting seedlings that are
six to eight weeks old. The seed may be sown in a hot
bed or green-house. The seedlings should be kept topped
to about four inches, to produce strong plants. Before
setting in the field, the plants should be cut back to about
three inches, and the roots trimmed off. The plants should
be set not closer than four inches in the row in the field.
Varieties. The Danvers Yellow Globe, and the South-
port, Red, White and Yellow Globe, are the favorite
varieties to grow from seed in the North. The Prizetaker
is the favorite for transplanting. The globe onions do not
transplant profitably.
Fertilizers. Stable manures are valuable sources of
plant food for onions, if the manures are previously com-
posted and are applied only when rotted. Manures con-
taining coarse material should not be used. The onion is
a shallow rooted vegetable and requires an abundance of
quickly available plant food. Chemical fertilizers are,
therefore, very generally used in growing onions. High
grade, complete fertilizers, containing at least 4% of nitrogen
should be used. The formulas used by different growers
vary considerably, but in most cases the nitrogen and potash
elements are high. A fertilizer containing 5% nitrogen,
8% phosphoric acid and 12% potash, should be applied at
the rate of 1000 pounds to 2500 pounds per acre, depending
upon the condition of the soil. A top dressing of nitrate
of soda, at the rate of 150 pounds per acre, may be applied
after the plants are four to six inches high.
88 MARKET GARDENING
XV. PARSNIP
Soil. Sandy loam is best adapted to the growing
of parsnips. Heavy soils tend to produce roots irregular
in shape and with numerous fibrous roots.
Planting. The seed should be sown in drills as soon
as the ground can be gotten into shape in the spring.
The rows should be sixteen to twenty inches apart and the
plants four to seven inches apart in the row, depending
upon the richness of the soil and the size of the roots desired.
The whole season is required to mature this crop.
Harvesting and Storing. The roots are dug out in
the fall and the tops cut off about one inch above the
crown. The roots are then ready for storing. In digging
the roots, it is a good plan to plough along one side, or
both sides of the row, ploughing away from the plants.
This leaves the roots partly exposed and easily dug.
The roots may be stored in pits out of doors, or in
cellars. If stored in a cellar, the roots should be kept buried
in moist sand to prevent their shrivelling.
Parsnips are hardy and may be left in the ground over
winter. The claim is often made that freezing improves
the quality.
XVI. SALSIFY
This vegetable, because of its flavor, is generally known
as " oyster plant." Its cultural requirements are the same
as for the parsnip.
XVII. PEA
Soil. The pea does well on a variety of soils if
well supplied with humus. The lighter soils are best for
early results, but for the main crop and heavy yields, heavier
soils are best.
CROPS 89
Planting. The pea is a hardy, cool-loving plant and
the seed should be sown as soon as the ground can be
worked. The seed is usually sown in drills eighteen to
thirty inches apart, for a garden crop. As a field crop,
as when grown for canneries, the rows may be thirty-six
inches apart, or as is often done, the seed is sown with a
grain drill and the crop cut with a mowing machine. The
depth of planting varies from one to two inches, depending
upon the season and the soil. The earlier and cooler the
season the shallower should the planting be, while if the
season is advanced, or the soil light, the planting should
be deeper.
Fertilizers. The pea requires but little nitrogenous
fertilizer, but should have a liberal application of a high
grade, complete fertilizer, containing 2% to 3% nitrogen,
8% of phosphoric acid and 10% of potash. Rotted
manure should be applied at the rate of 20 cords per
acre and ploughed in.
Varieties. Peas are divided into two general types:
smooth peas and wrinkled peas. The smooth peas are the
hardier of the two, and are adapted for use as a field crop
or a garden crop. The wrinkled peas are less hardy than
the smooth peas, have finer flavor and are not adapted for
field purposes.
The varieties may be divided into two groups, com-
prising the dwarf sorts and the tall or bush sorts.
Gregory's Excelsior, Gradus, Nott's Excelsior, and
Thomas Laxton are excellent early varieties.
Telegraph and Stratagem are fine late varieties.
Harvesting. Peas are ready for harvesting as soon
as the seeds are large enough to "shell" easily. The garden
varieties are always gathered by hand. Two or more pick-
ings are required, and care must be exercised that the peas
90 MARKET GARDENING
do not become too hard before being gathered. Half bushel
and bushel baskets and bushel boxes are commonly used
for marketing peas.
The tall varieties may be supported in a number of ways,
brush being most commonly used. The brush should be
cut as long as desired and thrust into the ground along the
rows. Wire trellis, or chicken wire, may also be used for
supporting the vines.
XVIII. RADISH
The radish is one of the most popular and easily grown
vegetables that we have. In the early season particularly
is the radish in great demand. As a market garden crop
the radish is almost always grown as a filler or companion
crop, but in the home garden the radish is generally given
a first choice when the collection of seed for planting is
being selected.
The radish is a hardy crop and gives quick returns. It
is a cool-loving plant and may be planted as soon as the
ground can be prepared in the spring. As a greenhouse or
hot bed crop it is a universal favorite because of the ease
and quickness with which it is brought to an edible size.
Seed. The seed of the radish should be carefully
selected, only thelargest and plumpest seed should beplanted.
Small, inferior seed will produce a crop of small size and
inferior quality and shape of roots. The seed may be
cleaned by running it through a fanning mill or by screening.
The openings in the screen should be ^ of an inch in
diameter. Plants from the largest and best seed can be
matured in from twenty-one to thirty-six days; plants from
small seed will take from six to fourteen days longer to
reach maturity.
CROPS 91
Planting. The seed should be covered to a depth
of from one-half to three quarters of an inch. It is desirable
for quick germination that the ground be thoroughly pre-
pared and have a sufficient amount of moisture. If planted
by hand, the seed should be dropped about one-half inch
apart. Machines are properly gauged for planting radish
seed if set as directed. The soil should be firmed over the
seed after planting to bring the moist earth in direct contact
with the seed. To obtain the finest quality, the radish
should be grown as rapidly as possible and with plenty of
moisture at all times.
Marketing. Radishes are ready for pulling as soon
as they reach sufficient size. The plants are tied into
bunches of from six to ten plants each according to size
and the season. They are then carefully washed and
packed in bushel boxes or baskets for the market.
The Scarlet Globe and strains of this variety are the
most profitable and popular sorts to grow,
XIX. RHUBARB
Soils. Rhubarb can be grown profitably on most soils,
if sufficient humus and plant food are supplied. For early
results rhubarb should be planted in sandy loam, with a
southern exposure.
Propagation. Rhubarb can be propagated from seed,
but this procedure is not very satisfactory because the
seedlings seldom come true to the type desired. The
best method is the division of the old roots; each piece of
root with an " eye/' or bud, will produce a plant of the
desired qualities.
Planting. The best results are obtained from plant-
ing in the spring. The soil should previously have been
92 MARKET GARDENING
well , supplied with manure. The usual planting distance
is four by four feet, and the eyes or crowns should be
covered to a depth of six to eight inches.
Fertilizers. Rotted stable manure is the best source
of plant food for rhubarb. This should be supple-
mented by an application of 1000 pounds or more of
a high grade, complete fertilizer, containing 6% of the
nitrogen element. Nitrate of soda should be applied at
intervals during the growing season, at the rate of 150 to
200 pounds per acre. Some fertilizer should be applied
after the pulling season is over, in order that the roots may
store up plant food for the next year's crop. Mulching with
rotted manure is quite generally practiced and is very
beneficial.
Thorough cultivation should be practiced throughout the
growing season, and irrigation is advisable unless the natural
supply of moisture is sufficient. Rhubarb requires large
quantities of water and no other crop gives quicker response
to irrigation.
Harvesting. The stalks are pulled as soon as they have
attained sufficient size, and after the leaves are trimmed
off close to the stem, the stalks are tied into bundles of
several stalks each.
Forcing. Rhubarb is forced in the winter time by
bringing the large roots into a warm, darkened room or
cellar. The roots are set in soil and kept sufficiently moist.
The roots should be dug out in the fall and stored in a cool
place. Freezing is claimed to be an advantage. When
forced in the dark, fine large stalks, surmounted with very
small leaves are produced. The roots are worthless after
having been forced.
CROPS 93
XX. SPINACH
Spinach is one of the easiest grown and most popular of
the salad crops. It is unexcelled for boiling. A home
garden is not complete without it.
Planting. The seed may be planted in the spring as
soon as the ground can be prepared, or planting may take
place in the early fall. Spinach is a cool-loving plant and
does best only during the cooler parts of the season.
The seed should be sown in drills sixteen to eighteen
inches apart. When fall sowing is done to produce a crop
for the spring harvest, it is a good plan to make beds some-
what higher than the general level of the ground, that the
plants may have proper drainage. The beds should be wide
enough for six or more rows of spinach. As freezing weather
approaches, the plants should be covered with straw or
strawy manure, to prevent successive freezing and thawing
which would tend to lift the plants and destroy them. As
soon as the spring opens, the mulch should be removed.
Harvesting. The plants are usually harvested by cut-
ting the tap root just under the surface of the ground.
This is easily accomplished with the use of a sharpened hoe.
The outer leaves should be removed and the plants washed
before packing for market. For a local market, the bushel
box is a favorite package, but for shipping to a distant
market, the barrel or bushel basket should be used. The
barrel should be covered with burlap but the basket should
have a slatted cover.
Fertilizers. The ground must be well fertilized that
the plants may make a maximum growth. Heavy appli-
cations of rotted manure and a dressing of a complete
high grade, chemical fertilizer should be made previous to
sowing the seed.
94 MARKET GARDENING
XXI. SQUASH
Soil. A well fertilized, medium to light soil is the
most desirable in which to grow squashes. The success
in growing the crook-neck or patty-pan type of squash is
dependent to a large degree upon having a soil that will
warm up early in the spring. This is no less true with the
Hubbard squash and other varieties that require a long
growing season to attain maturity before frosts in the
fall.
Planting. The general practice is to plant in hills
from four by four feet, for the crook-neck and patty-pan
types to ten by twelve feet for the Hubbard squash. The
seed should not be planted until danger of frost is passed
and the ground has become sufficiently warmed.
To obtain earliest results, the seed may be planted in
pots or baskets, in a hot bed or green-house, four to six weeks
before being set in the open. When transplanting, great
care must be taken that the ball of earth is disturbed as
little as possible.
Harvesting. The summer squashes are harvested as
soon as they attain sufficient size to become salable.
The fall and winter kinds should be allowed to ripen
on the vines before being harvested. The squash should be
gathered with all of its stem intact; the vine should be cut
about an inch each side of the stem. Unless the weather
is too severe, the squashes may be left piled in the field
until the stems have become thoroughly dried before being
placed in storage.
Storing. The storage must be warm and dry, the
temperature being held at 50° to 55° F. It is customary
to have stove or furnace heat in squash store-houses. The
squashes keep best T"hen stored on ventilated shelves, piled
CROPS 95
not more than three deep. The bottom shelf should be at
least one foot from the floor to provide good air drainage.
XXII. SWEET CORN
Soils. Sweet corn can be grown successfully in any
fertile soil, but the best results are obtained in newly broken
sod land, or in sod land ploughed in the fall previous to
growing the corn.
• Planting. The earliest sweet corn brings the high-
est prices, the grower should therefore select such lands
as warm up earliest in the spring, and plant early, making
successive plantings until danger of frost is past, when the
undesired plants are hoed out. A succession of crops are
obtained by planting such varieties as will give succession,
or by planting one variety of corn at intervals during the
season. Sweet corn is usually planted in drills thirty inches
to four feet apart. The distance between plants in the rows
should vary with the variety from ten inches for the smaller
growing kinds to a foot or more for the larger growing kinds.
When grown in hills, two to three plants in a hill are
sufficient.
Transplanting. Sweet corn can be transplanted suc-
cessfully and profitably if handled properly. The seed
should be planted in pots or baskets not over four weeks
previous to setting in the field. In transplanting, great
care must be taken not to disturb the roots. Two plants
in a three-inch pot are as many as should be grown Each
pot should provide plants for one hill.
Fertilizer. Rotted stable manures applied at the rate
of 20 cords to the acre are very desirable sources of
plant food for corn. Chemical fertilizer containing 4%
nitrogen, 8% phosphoric acid and 10% potash should be
applied at the rate of 1000 to 2000 pounds per acre.
96 MARKET GARDENING
Cultivation. Frequent and thorough cultivation should
be practiced, horse-drawn implements being used until too
much damage is done the growing crop.
Varieties. Golden Bantam, Crosby and Red Cob Cory
are good early varieties. Country Gentleman and Sto-
welPs Evergreen are the most popular and desirable of the
later varieties.
XXIII. TOMATOES
Soil. The tomato can be grown successfully on most
soils, provided they are fertile and well drained. On
the lighter soils, such as sandy loams, the earliest fruits
are produced, but the fruit usually is not so firm and meaty
as when it is produced on heavier soil. The yield is usu-
ally somewhat heavier on the lighter soils than it is on the
heavier soils.
Planting. For earliest results, the seed must be sown
under glass about the first of March. The seedlings
may be transplanted into flats being set three by three or
four by four inches, or they may be set in pots or berry
baskets. A three-inch pot is suitable for the first trans-
planting. As the plants become larger and the roots begin
to fill the pots, they should be shifted into larger pots. This
procedure should be repeated until the conditions are right
for setting the plants in the field.
The first bud cluster should be pinched out. This will
cause the plants to branch out and the formation of several
bud clusters in place of the one removed. If the plants are
well handled and have not been allowed to crowd or become
spindly, they may have blossoms or small tomatoes on them
when set in the field. If the transplanting is done care-
fully, and the plants have been properly hardened, the
blossoms and small fruit will continue to develop normally.
CROPS
97
98 MARKET GARDENING
Fruit from such plants can be had in forty to forty-five
days.
Fertilizers. The soil should be liberally supplied with
rotted manure, ploughed under and thoroughly incor-
porated with the soil by discing. A high grade, complete
fertilizer, containing 4% nitrogen, 8% phosphoric acid and
10% potash, should be applied at the rate of 1000 to 2000
pounds per acre just previous to setting the plants in the
field.
Training. In general practice, the plants are set three
by three to four by five feet apart, and the plants are
allowed to rest on the ground as they become larger and
bear fruit. Pruning the vines and training them to stakes
is sometimes practiced in the field. When the plants are to
be staked and pruned, they should be set eighteen inches
apart in the row. A stake is provided for each plant and
the plant is kept pruned to a single stem. After a sufficient
number of clusters of fruit have been set, the top of the
plant is cut off. As the lower leaves become old and spotted
they should be pruned or entirely cut off. It is an advan-
tage to shake the plants every day when they are in blossom
to aid in setting the fruits.
Harvest ng. Tomatoes, whether grown for a local or
distant market, should be gathered before becoming
entirely ripe. At the height of the season the fruit should
be gathered every day.
Tomatoes are marketed in small splint baskets holding
five to ten pounds each, also in bushel boxes and baskets.
INDEX
Asparagus, 53-56.
blanching, 55.
cultivation, 54.
fertilizers for, 55.
harvesting, 55.
planting, 53, 54.
Bacteria, 10.
Beans, 56, 57.
cultivation, 56, 57.
fertilizers for, 57
harvesting, 57.
planting, 56.
supports for, 56.
varieties, 57.
Beets, 57-61.
fertilizers for, 59, 61,
marketing, 59.
planting, 59.
soil for, 57.
storage of, 61.
transplanting, 59.
Blanching, 55, 67, 71.
asparagus, 55.
celery, 67, 71.
Brussels Sprouts, 64.
Bushel baskets, 50.
Bushel box, 48.
Cabbage, 61-64.
club foot, 16.
Cabbage, cultivation, 63.
fertilizers for, 63.
harvesting, 63.
planting, 61.
soil for, 61.
Catch Crops, 18.
Cauliflower, 64-67.
fertilizers for, 66.
harvesting, 66.
planting, 66.
soils for, 64.
Celery, 67-73.
blanching, 71.
cultivation of, 69.
fertilizers for, 69.
harvesting, 68, 69, 70.
marketing, 69.
planting, 67.
storing, 71, 72.
Combination tools, 3, 8.
Companion Cropping, 20, 62,, 79
97.
Composting, 10, 11.
Crates, 48.
Cucumbers, 73-75.
cultivation, 75.
fertilizers for, 73.
harvesting, 73, 75.
soil for, 73.
Dandelion, 75.
99
100
INDEX
Dandelion, harvesting, 74, 75.
Dibbers, 30.
Disc harrow, 5.
Dust mulch, 5.
Egg Plant, 76.
fertilizer for, 76.
planting, 76.
Exposure of Gardens, 2.
Fertilizers, 9-18.
chemical, 12-15.
commercial, 11.
complete, 15.
composting, 10.
hot manures, 10.
kinds, 9.
stable manure, 9, 10, 11.
Fire fanging, 11.
Gardens, 36-42.
Germination, 25.
conditions for, 27.
Horse radish, 76-78.
harvesting, 78.
planting, 78.
Hot beds, 19-23, 36.
care of, 23.
construction, 21, 22.
heating, 19.
location, 19.
manure for, 21, 22.
Humus, 10.
Irrigation, 32-36.
amount of, 35.
furrow, 34.
methods of, 33, 34, 35.
Irrigation, requirements, 32.
sprinkler system, 34, 35.
Labor, 2.
Legumes, 16, 17.
Lettuce, 78, 81.
fertilizers, 80.
harvesting, 80.
planting, 80.
soils for, 78.
varieties, 80, 81.
Lime, 15, 16.
Location of market garden, 1
Manure, 9, 10, 11.
composting, 10.
effects of, 17.
green, 16.
kinds of, 9, 10.
Market, 1.
Moisture requirements, 32,
Musk melon, 81, 82.
fertilizer for, 82.
harvesting, 82.
planting, 81.
soil, 81.
Nitrate of soda, 13.
Nitrogen, 12-14.
Non-legumes, 17.
Nodules, 16.
Onions, 82-87.
cultivation, 83, 84.
fertilizers for, 87.
harvesting, 85.
planting, 84.
sets, 85.
INDEX
101
Onions, soil for, 82.
varieties, 87.
Packing, 49-52.
crates and baskets, 50, 52.
Parsnips, 88.
Pea, 88-90.
fertilizers for, 89.
harvesting, 89, 90.
planting, 89.
soil, 88.
varieties, 89.
Perennials, 36.
Phosphoric Acid, 14.
Planting, 28.
Ploughing, 5.
under, 17.
Potash, 14.
Radish, 90, 91.
planting, 91.
marketing, 91.
seed, 90.
Rhubarb, 91, 92.
fertilizers, 92.
forcing, 92.
harvesting, 92.
planting, 91.
propagation, 91.
soils, 91.
Rock phosphate, 14.
Root crops, 43.
Salsify, 88.
Seed, 24-29.
germination of, 25.
planting, 28.
quality of, 24.
selection of, 24.
Seed, sowing, 28.
testing, 25, 27.
viability of, 24.
Seed beds, 27, 28.
Seed drill, 7, 8, 42.
Seedlings, 25, 26.
transplanting, 29, 30.
Smoothing harrow, 7.
Soil, 1, 2.
acidity, 7, 8, 42.
of market garden, 5.
preparation of, 15.
Spinach, 93.
Squash, 94.
storing of, 94.
Storage, 38, 43, 52.
temperature, 48.
Storing; J ,''»'-,', >
beets, 6l\\] I V ,
cabbage, 38, 45,, 46, 49, 68.
c^lej V.;4S, ( 4fj, i 47> Vl : , ; ] \ }
in crates, 51.
onions, 45, 46, 85.
parsnips, 44, 88.
root crops, 38, 43, 143.
squash, 94.
Sweet Corn, 95, 96.
cultivation, 96.
fertilizer, 95.
planting, 95.
varieties, 96.
Thomas Slag, 14.
Tools, 42.
Tomatoes, 96-98.
fertilizers for, 98.
harvesting, 98.
planting, 96.
soil for 96.
102
INDEX
Tomatoes, training, 98.
Transplanting, 29, 30, 31,
Vegetable garden, 36-42.
• cultivation of, 38.
home, 36-38.
place of, 41.
plan of, 37,
Vegetable garden, Plots, 39.
preparation of, 39.
school, 38-42.
Water, 3.
Wheel hoes, 7, 8, 42.
Wind breaks, 2.
Wrapping in paper, 52.
THE WILEY TECHNICAL SERIES
EDITED BY
J. M. JAMESON
A series of carefully adapted texts for use in technical,
vocational and industrial schools. The subjects treated
will include Applied Science; Household and Agricultural
Chemistry; Electricity; Electrical Power and Machinery;
Applied Mechanics; Drafting and Design; Steam; Gas
Engines; Shop Practice; Applied Mathematics; Agriculture;
Household Science, etc.
The following texts are announced; others are being
added rapidly:
ELECTRICITY
THE ELEMENTS OF ELECTRICITY; For Technical Students.
By W. H. TIMBIE, Head of Department of Applied Science,
Wentworth Institute. xi+556 pages, 5^4 by 8. 415 figures.
Cloth, $2.00 net.
THE ESSENTIALS OF ELECTRICITY; A Text-book for Wire-
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Institute. Flexible covers, pocket size, xiii+271 pages, 5 by 7%.
224 figures. Cloth, $1.25 net.
CONTINUOUS AND ALTERNATING CURRENT MACHIN-
ERY. By Professor J. H. MORECROFT, Columbia University.
ix-f-466 pages, 5% by 7%. 288 figures. Cloth, $1.75 net.
CONTINUOUS AND ALTERNATING CURRENT MACHIN-
ERY PROBLEMS. By W. T. RYAN, E.E., Assistant Professor
of Electrical Engineering, the University of Minnesota. 40 pages,
5M by 7%. Cloth, 50 cents net.
5M 7-28-15
ALTERNATING CURRENT ELECTRICITY AND ITS APPLI-
CATION TO INDUSTRY. First Course. By W. H. TIMBIE,
Head of Department of Applied Science, Wentworth Institute,
and H. H. HIGBIE, Professor of Electrical Engineering, University
of Michigan, x+534 pages, 5% by 8. 389 figures. Cloth, $2.00
net. Second Course, Fall, 1915.
ELECTRIC LIGHTING. By H. H. HIGBIE, Professor of Electrical
Engineering, University of Michigan. (In preparation.)
INTRODUCTION TO INDUSTRIAL ELECTRICITY. By W. H.
TIMBIE, Head of Department of Applied Science, Wentworth
Institute. (In preparation.)
WIRING EXERCISES. By H. A. CALDERWOOD, Carnegie Institute
of Technology. (In preparation.)
HEAT AND HEAT ENGINEERING
HEAT; A Text-book for Technical and Industrial Students. By
J. A. RANDALL, Instructor in Mechanics and Heat, Pratt Institute.
xiv+331 pages, 5% by 8. 80 figures. Cloth, $1.50 net.
GAS POWER. By C. F. HIRSHFELD, Professor of Power Engineering,
Sibley College, Cornell University, and T. C. ULBRICHT, formerly
Instructor, Department of Power Engineering, Cornell University.
viii+198 pages, 5M by 8. 60 figures. Cloth, $1.25 net.
STEAM POWER. By C. F. HIRSHFELD, Professor of Power Engi-
neering, Sibley College, Cornell University, and T. C. ULBRICHT,
formerly Instructor, Department of Power Engineering, Cornell
University. (Ready in Fall, 1915.)
HEAT AND LIGHT IN THE HOUSEHOLD. By W. G. WHITMAN.
State Normal School, Salem, Mass. (In preparation.)
MECHANICS
ELEMENTARY PRACTICAL MECHANICS. By J. M. JAMESON,
Cirard College, formerly Pratt Institute, xii+321 pages, 5 by 7>£.
212 figures. Cloth, $1.50 net.
MECHANICS FOR MACHINISTS. By R. W. BURNHAM, Erasmus
Hall High School, Brooklyn, Instructor in Evening Machine Work,
Pratt Institute. (In preparation.)
MATHEMATICS
PRACTICAL MATHEMATICS. By C. R. DOOLEY, Westinghouse
Electric and Manufacturing Compan", Pittsburgh. (In prepara-
tion.)
A SHOP MATHEMATICS FOR MACHINISTS. By R. W.
BURNHAM, Instructor in Machine Work, Pratt Institute Evening
School. 5 by 7. 175 figures. Cloth,
PRACTICAL SHOP MECHANICS AND MATHEMATICS.
By JAMES F. JOHNSON, Superintendent of the State Trade School,
Bridgeport, Conn, viii+130 pages, 5 by 7. 81 figures. Cloth,
$1.00 net.
ARITHMETIC FOR CARPENTERS AND BUILDERS. By
R. BURDETTB DALE, Assistant Professor in charge of Vocational
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AGRICULTURE
POULTRY. By Professor J. C. GRAHAM, Massachusetts Agricultural
College. (In preparation.)
SOILS. By Professor A. G. McCALL, Ohio State University. (In
preparation.)
AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY, By Professor T. E. KEITT,
Clemson Agricultural College. (Ready September, 1915.)
INJURIOUS INSECTS. By Dean E. D. SANDERSON and Professor
L. M. PEAIRS, West Virginia. University. (Ready September, 1915.)
AGRICULTURAL DRAFTING. By CHARLES B. HOWE, M.E.
46 pages, 8 by 10%- 45 figures, 22 plates Cloth, $1.25 net.
STUDIES OF TREES. By J. J. LEVISON, Forester, Park Depart-
ment, Brooklyn, N. Y. x+253 pages, 5M by 8. 156 half-tone
illustrations. Cloth, $1.60 net.
MARKET GARDENING. By Professor F. L. YEAW, Oasis Farm
& Orchard Company, Roswell, New Mexico. Formerly Professor
of Market Gardening, Massachusetts Agricultural College, vi-f-
120 pages, 5 by 7. 36 figures. Cloth, 75 cents net.
FIELD AND LABORATORY MANUALS IN
AGRICULTURE
Studies of Trees: Their Diseases and Care. By J. J. LEVISON,
M.F., Lecturer on Ornamental and Shade Trees, Yale University
Forest School, Forester to the Department of Parks, Brooklyn,
N. Y. 20 pamphlets, 8 by 10^. $1.00 net. Sold separately if
desired. Price each 5, 10, or 15 cents according to size.
Exercises in Farm Dairying. By Professor C. LARSEN, De-
partment of Dairy Husbandry, South Dakota State College.
Loose leaf. 8 by 10j^. 69 Exercises. Single Exercises two cents
each. Complete, $1.00 net.
Exercises in Poultry Raising. By Professor J. C. GRAHAM,
Massachusetts Agricultural College. (In preparation.)
Farm Crops and Soils. By Professor A. G. McCALL, Depart-
ment of Agronomy, Ohio State University. (Ready September,
1915.)
Exercises in Agricultural Chemistry. By Professor T. E. KEITT,
Clemson Agricultural College. (In preparation.)
THE LOOSE LEAF LABORATORY MANUAL
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of the Series, covering every subject in which laboratory or field
work may be given. Each exercise is complete in itself, and is
printed separately. These will be sold by the single sheet as
selected or where preferred will be bound in paper cover.
Exercises in General Chemistry. By CHARLES M. ALLEN,
Head of Department of Chemistry, Pratt Institute. An
introductory course in Applied Chemistry, covering a year's
laboratory work on the acid-forming and metallic elements and
compounds. 62 pages, 8 by 10^. 61 exercises.
Selected exercises as desired, to fit an ordinary binder, two cents
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Exercises for the Applied Mechanics Laboratory. By J. P.
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Selected exercises as desired, to fit an ordinary binder, two cents
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Quantitative Chemical Analysis. By CHARLES M. ALLEN, Head
of Department of Chemistry, Pratt Institute. 12 pamphlets.
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phlets furnished if desired. Price according to size.
THE LOOSE LEAF LABORATORY MANUAL— Cant.
Exercises in Industrial Chemistry. By Dr. ALLEN ROGERS.
Instructor in Qualitative Analysis, Pratt Institute. (In prep-
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Technical Chemical Analysis. By R. H. H. AUNGST, Instructor
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Qualitative Chemical Analysis. By C. E. BIVINS, Instructor in
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Elementary Electrical Testing. By Professor V. KARAPETOFF,
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Single exercises, two cents each.
Exercises in Mechanics. By J. M. JAMESON, Girard College;
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Exercises in Heat. By J. A. RANDALL, Instructor in Mechanics
and Heat, Pratt Institute. 13 exercises, with numerous cuts
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Exercises in Electricity, A. C. and D. C. By W. H. TIMBIE,
Head of Department of Applied Science, Wentworth Institute.
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SHOP TEXTS
MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE. By W. J. KAUP, Special Repre-
sentative, Crucible Steel Company of America, xii+199 pages,
5M by 8. 163 figures. Cloth, $1.25 net.
PATTERN MAKING. By FREDERICK W. TURNER and DANIEL
G. TOWN, Mechanic Arts High School, Boston, v+114 pages,
5 by 7. 88 figures. Cloth, $1.00 net.
TOOL MAKING. By W. J. KAUP, Special Representative, Crucible
Steel Company of America, and J. A. CHAMBERLAIN, Supervisor
of Manual Training, Washington, D. C. (In preparation.)
A SHOP MATHEMATICS FOR MACHINISTS. By R. W.
BURNHAM, Instructor in Machine Work, Pratt Institute Evening
School. 5 by 7. 175 figures. Cloth,
PRACTICAL SHOP MECHANICS AND MATHEMATICS.
By JAMES F. JOHNSON, Superintendent of the State Trade School.
Bridgeport, Conn, viii -f- 130 pages, 5 by 7. 81 figures. Cloth,
$1.00 net.
DRAFTING AND DESIGN
DECORATIVE DESIGN. A Text-Book of Practical Methods.
* By JOSEPH CUMMINGS CHASE, Instructor in Decorative Design at
the College of the City of New York and at Cooper Union Woman's
Art School. (In press.)
AGRICULTURAL DRAFTING. By CHARLES B. HOWE, M.E.
viii +63 pages, 8 by 10%. 45 figures, 26 plates. Cloth, $1.25 net.
ARCHITECTURAL DRAFTING. By A. B. GREENBERG, Stuy-
vesant Technical High School, New York, and CHARLES B. HOWE,
Bushwick Evening High School, Brooklyn. Lviii+110 pages,
8 by 10%. 53 figures, 12 plates. Cloth, $1.50 net.
MECHANICAL DRAFTING. By CHARLES B. HOWE, M.E.
Bushwick Evening High School, Brooklyn. (In Press.)
ENGINEERING DRAFTING. By CHARLES B. HOWE, M.E.,
Bushwick Evening High School, Brooklyn, and SAMUEL J. BERARD,
Sheffield Scientific School, Yale University.
THE LOOSE LEAF DRAWING MANUAL. Reference and
Problem Sheets to accompany the texts of Agricultural and Archi-
tectural Drafting. These will be furnished singly as selected, and
are designed to enable the instructor to adapt his instruction
closely to the needs of his class. Price two cents each.
• -
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