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The Mountaineer “*
BOTANIC
E. L. HAMPTON, Editor. GARDED
Application made for entry at the Seattle postoffice as mail matter of the second class.
Subscription price, One Dollar the year. Single numbers Twenty-five Cents.
VOL. I: MARCH, 1907. NO. J.
CONTENTS:
FRONTISPIECE. Olympic Mountains.
BORE WORD. bo shies (PRESIDEN Ee: 32. as ae Henry LAnpEs, State Geologist
THE MOUNTAINS OF WiASRONGITON pec Le Rae Beat oR Ree ae oP Rae Rumen 1p he 8
Bee eee oe W. D. Lyman, Professor of History and Political Science, Whitman College
BIRDS OF DHE: HIGH (CASCADES. vos... iu tae Dr. WittiAmM Leon Dawson
C25 CA EAS ETE ©) BN ESET) Uy 05s 1 2 eo a, ee ee ea eo G. W. Humes
ANNALS OF THE HISTORIAN.
THE MOUNTAINEERS OF 1906-7.
CONSTITUTION AND BY-LAWS.
BOARD OF DIRECTORS.
OFFICERS.
COMMITTEES.
CHARTER MEMBERS.
OFFICERS.
PRESIDENT .-2 Henry Lanpes, Professor of Geology and Mineralogy, University of Washington
SANE Bees 29 BAEC] | De] Mos eee pee gi ge Sa a RON OR ee Dr. J. F. Sweeney, Member Mazamas
SHGR EVAR Y 2= eee tees ee es ated ee a) Dr. Cora SmitH Eaton, Member Sierra Club
yes SANSA] 31 2h Ca ae OCR SAM 5 oes Soe aed Dr. E. F. Stevens, Member Mazamas
SORIA Nis 2 a. eee Mary Banks, Reference Librarian, Seattle Public Library
BOARD OF DIRECTORS.
Mary Banxs Henry LANDES
ASAHEL Curtis W. Monte ius Price
Cora SmitH Eaton E. F. STEVENS
E. L. Hampton J. P. Sweeney
E. WeELpon YouNnG
COMMITTEES.
Program. Outing.
Prof. Theodore C. Frye Mr. Asahel Curtis, Chairman
Miss Alida J. Bigelow Dr. Cora Smith Eaton
House. Mr. W. M. Price
Miss Joe I. Kincaid Publishing.
Mrs. E. F. Stevens Mr. E. L. Hampton, Chairman
Miss Anna _.a Miss Adelaide L. Pollock
Miss Daisy Lane Miss Mary Banks
‘OLST ‘Q8n3ny ‘dnorz uvA ‘& ‘L pur stoAeis "H ‘00H Aq popueose 4saTT “Joos 92G‘F1T OPNITITY
‘SRINIVU LNAOW
Sikes
‘THE MOUNTAINEER
VOL. 1 MARCH, 1907 No. 1
Foreword
HE MOUNTAINEERS is an association of kindred spirits who love the
out-of-doors and to whom the wildwood, the flowery mead and the
mountain fastness afford a rest, a solace, and an inspiration. The
mountains contain Nature’s mightiest workshop, where there is ever wrought
a titanic struggle between the forces of fire and those of water; between
vuleanism and upheaval, and the chiseling or seulpturing action of ice and
running water. In this workshop there is fashioned our grandest scenery,
and we need travel but a day’s journey into our mountains to find Nature
at her best. After drinking to the full of the pure joy, thorough rest, and
good health of the mountains, and we again descend to the plains to begin
with hand and brain the old routine of life, we understand better than ever
the song of David, ‘‘I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence
cometh my help.’’
The purposes of the organization are set forth in the Constitution of
the Mountaineers. It hopes to render a publie service in the battle to pre-
serve our natural scenery from wanton destruction, and yet make our spots
of supremest beauty accessible to the largest number of mountain lovers.
Meetings are held monthly at which addresses are given upon some phase
of mountain study; one-day and two-day excursions are taken to the nearest
points of interest; it is planned to spend from two to five weeks each
summer in an extended study of some little known mountain region; a peri-
odical is published known as the ‘‘ Mountaineer.”’
The ‘‘Mountaineer’’ is a quarterly journal devoted to the interests of
all devotees of the mountains. It offers no apology for its appearance, since
this is the era of printer’s ink, and its purpose will be to tell the stories of
our journeys afield, the exploration of our unknown mountains, the ascents
of our high peaks, the results of our scientific studies, and to preserve in a
permanent form our best results in mountain photography. The publication
of this journal is undertaken in order that those matters of large interest
that pertain to our mountains may be placed in durable form and made
aecessible to all persons interested in such things. It is in no sense a com-
mercial enterprise and but little advertising matter will be permitted in
each issue. It is the plan to devote the first number of the present year
to details coneerning the organization of the Mountaineers and to general
articles; the second number to desirable information regarding the Olympic
Mountains, in advance of the summer outing; the third and fourth numbers
to stories of the Olympic outing, the results of the geographic and geologic
explorations, and the new information concerning the flora and fauna of
that little known region.
HENRY LANDES,
President of the Mountaineers,
‘POST UF pepuoose 4SITT “7003 OLF‘ST OPNITIIV
‘SUVaV LNAOW
The Mountains of Washington
By W. D. LYMAN
Professor of History and Political Science, Whitman College
apa LAND of old upheaven from
the abyss’’; a land of deepest
depths and highest heights;
of richest verdure and barest deso-
lation; of thickest forests and most
open prairie; a land of contrasts in
contour, in hues, in production, in
history ;—such is this great state of
ours, of whose capacities and attrac-
tions we are so well convinced, of
whose history we are so proud, and
of whose great future we are so cer-
tain.
Where all the physical features are
remarkable, we may be almost par-
doned for falling into the language
of extravagance and passing beyond
the bounds of seeming sober truth.
Particularly when we undertake to
encompass in a few pages a general
description of the mountains of
Washington.
Take a map and you will find the
mountain systems of the state redu-
cible to a comparatively simple
grouping. There is one great chain,
the Cascades, with many spurs, run-
ning a north and south course direct-
ly through the state, dividing it ap-
proximately into a western third, a
soft, humid, densely forested region ;
and an eastern two-thirds, open, dry,
elear and breezy. The western side
of this great range is almost one
bold, continuous rampart facing the
ocean. On the eastern side there are
many spurs, running east and west
and dividing the region between the
Columbia River and the Cascade
Mountains into valleys’ through
which impetuous rivers take their
way. The chief of these spurs are,
beginning on the south, the Simcoe,
the Peshastin, the Wenatchee, the
Chelan, the Methow, and the Okano-
gan. Besides this great Cascade
chain, the most distinct topographi-
eal feature of the state, there are
two other great regions of uplift at
nearly opposite corners of the state,
The Olympies at the northwest and
the Blues at the southeast. Both the
Olympies and the Blues are great
knots or ganglionic bunches of moun-
tains rather than chains.
At the present stage of investiga-
tion, the geological history of our
mountains cannot be wholly affirmed.
It constitutes one of the most inter-
esting problems for the scientific stu-
dents of our state. In general terms
it, may be said that the Cascades con-
sist of a core of granite and meta-
morphic rocks overlaid in places by
enormous outflows of volcanic mat-
ter. Fire and frost and flood, those
great architects, have wrought on a
stupendous seale the framework of
this somber, mysterious, sublime
chain of mountains.
It was a favorite idea with the
late lamented Prof. Condon, of Ore-
gon, the most thorough student of
our geology, that the Pacific North-
west was a development of ‘‘Two
Islands.’’ One of these was the
nucleus of the Siskiyou Mountains
and thence northward in Oregon, and
the other the nucleus of the Blue
Mountains in Oregon and Washing-
ton. There is reason to believe that
to Prof. Condon’s Two Islands we
might add a third which was probab-
ly in the vicinity of Chelan. From
that as a center it would seem that
the granite masses of the northern
part of the Cascade Range slowly
rose from the ancient sea. As its
surface expanded with passing eons
of time, the internal fires burst forth
with elemental fury and stupendous
outflows of basalt, andesite, and
6 THE MOUNTAINEER.
other forms of voleanie rock covered 3}
the earlier formations, rising in
places to the magnificent isolated
cones which now compose our great
snow-peaks, of which it is the main
purpose of this article to speak.
After the age of fire there came on
an age of ice. The great mountain
chain having by successive upheavals
assumed essentially its present out-
lines, the glacial age covered the
ragged crests and pinnacles of dis-
there was one of flood. It would
seem that the slowly rising Cascade
Range imprisoned a vast sea, occu-
pying all the middle parts of the
present Columbia Valley. This sea,
first salt, then brackish, finally fresh
through the influx of rivers, at last
cleft the range asunder and made its
way to the ocean. The Columbia
River now occupies the channel made
by the excavation of that great sea.
The fantastic Indian myth of Wish-
SUMMIT OF MOUNT BAKER.
Altitude 10,827 feet.
located granite and intruding lava
with sheets of ice many times greater
than any now in existence here and
comparable to those of Greenland in
magnitude. Those immense masses
of ice moving toward the lowlands
planed off the crags and plowed out
the valleys, leaving the profound
chasms and abysmal lake beds of
Methow and Chelan and other mar-
vels of the Cascade range.
Besides the eras of fire and ice
Summit first reached by E. T. Coleman 1868.
poosh, the great beaver of Lake
Kichelos, seems to be based on that
idea of a flood and at the same time
explains the origin of the Indian
tribes. According to that tale the
beaver inhabited that lake, now the
head of the Yakima River, but a
lake vastly larger than now. En-
raged by the theft of Speelyi, the
coyote god of the Klickitats (though
that was before any Indians lived,
the world being inhabited solely by
THE MOUNTAINEER. 7
the ‘‘ Wateetash’’), Wishpoosh killed
and devoured all the animals in the
lake and tore out the lake walls till
the accumulated waters flowed down
by successive stages to the wide plain
now lying about the junction of the
Snake and Columbia Rivers. An im-
mense sea was there held in check by
the Umatilla highlands, but that was
finally gnawed through by the mon-
ster, and then the accumulated
waters covered all the vast region
from the Pasco plains to the vicinity
of The Dalles. For a long time the
towering ramparts of the Cascades
restrained the sea, but the onslaughts
of Wishpoosh sufficed at last to part
the barrier and the torrents poured
through the cleft, never pausing till
they lost themselves in the Pacific.
But even here the infuriated Wish-
poosh still killed and devoured all
life, fish and whales and_ birds.
Speelyi seeing that it devolved on
him to stay the fury of the monster,
flew out on the ocean armed with
supernatural weapons, and after a
desperate struggle killed Wishpoosh,
whose careass floated up on Clatsop
beach, stretched out many yards
upon the sand. Out of the carcass
Speelyi made the various Indian
tribes. Thus was the great Columbia
Valley drained, the river taking its
way through the pathway of Wish-
poosh, and thus were the native
tribes started upon life. This and
other Indian tales are well confirmed
by the present traces of past events.
More interesting to Mazamas and
Mountaineers will be a brief pano-
ramie view of the great isolated
peaks, which, based upon the broad
floor of the ancient granite axis that
‘‘in the beginning rose out of chaos,’’
were upheaved by the irresistible
energy of internal heat to the stately
height where they commune with the
stars. Few, indeed it may be ques-
tioned whether any elsewhere in the
world, have so rich and varied a be-
stowal of sublimities in mountain
scenery as have we in this same good
state of Washington. Easily accessible
their tablets of stone the open record
of geologic eras, garlanded with flow-
ery meads and parks, offering infin-
ite Opportunities to the climber, yet
without any serious dangers, these
mighty sentinels of rock and ice be-
come to us living beings, primeval
deities, gods of the elemental world,
each of whom we might imagine to
join the sublime song of the Earth-
spirit in Faust, which Goethe ima-
eines to sing:
“Thus at Time’s humming loom
‘tis my hand prepares
The garment of lght that the
Deity wears.”’
If we could fly with the sun, and
pass along the entire line in a suc-
cession of days without weariness or
delay, we might catch the marvelous
succession of views round the cireum-
ference of each and give perfect de-
scriptions of all. As it is, any at-
tempted description is fragmentary
and inadequate. But as may be pos-
sible, let us briefly describe each of
our Sacred Mountains in location and
essential features.
Taking our starting point at the
northern boundary, we find ourselves
first of all at the foot of Baker or
Kulshan. And before saying a word
of the peak itself, we cannot forbear
a glance at the sad blunder by which
the commonplace appellations of a
job lot of British sailors and admirals
and diplomats became foisted upon
the glorious objects of our state,
such as Baker, Puget, ete., ete. See
how the sonorous and poetical native
name Kulshan, the great white
watcher, puts to shame the cheap and
absolutely insignificant name _ of
Baker.
It is enough to make one with any
poetry in him rebel to think
that the world will go on forever say-
ing Baker, when the sonorous Kul-
shan, Great White Watcher, might
be rolling off the tongues of coming
generations,
THE MOUNTAINEER.
Now it is as much as the writer’s
life is worth to make the suggestion
in a Seattle publication, but it is his
solemn conviction (it is even a mat-
ter of ethics, morality, and religion
with him) that the same mistake ex-
ists in regard to the name of our
great king mountain. Rainier was
an insignificant English naval officer
and his name was attached to the
sublimest object on the American
continent by the doughty and self-
opinionated Briton Vancouver, with
true British conceit. Tacoma, or
rather Tahoma, was the Puyallup
name from immemorial time, mean-
ing, according to same, the mountain,
the Supreme Mountain, and accord-
ing to others, the breast of the milk-
white waters.
We would venture to ask if it
would not be a fine thing for the
Mountaineers to consider seriously
an attempt to restore these beauti-
ful and significant native names
thrust aside by the first explorers.
Those beautiful names, Seattle, Ta-
coma, Spokane, Walla Walla, Yak-
ima, Snoqualmie, Chelan, Olequa,
Cowlitz, Multnomah! The more of
them we can keep the better.
But please pardon this long digres-
sion, drawn on by one of the writer’s
favorite hobbies.
We find ourselves at the foot of
Kulshan, the scene of the last climb
of the Mazamas. This mountain,
though only the third, possibly only
the fourth in elevation of our great
peaks, is considered the hardest of
all to climb. It is certainly one of
the most magnificent in appearance,
with its peculiar spotlessness of
snowy shrouds and its commanding
location, within the range of all
vision upon the lower Sound. But
the dense forests, the craggy and ir-
regular ridges out of which the sum-
mit rises, and the almost perpendic-
ular declivities which guard it as a
sacred shrine, combine to render it
the most difficult and dangerous of
the great peaks. As a consequence
the Mazamas made but a partial suc-
cess of the climb of 1906, and those
who did attain the longed-for height
describe it as having been a perilous
experience. Baker is somewhat re-
markable for the great snow-fall, and
its appearance from the wide ex-
panses of the Gulf of Georgia or any
of the exquisite islands of the San
Juan group is striking and magni-
ficent. It seems far in excess of its
accepted elevation of 10,600 feet.
Near Baker (Kulshan, I prefer to
say), on the east is the bold crag of
Shuksan, not equal in height or
snow fall, yet one of the steepest and
most picturesque of all the wintry
brotherhood. So far as we know the
tirst and only ascent of this mountain
was made in the summer of 1906 by
Ashabel Curtis and W. Montelius
Price.
Between Shuksan and Glacier
Peak is a perfect wilderness of ser-
rated peaks, more numerous than
anywhere else in the entire range.
Here, too, are more glaciers than in
all the rest of the United States,
aside from Alaska, put together.
Along Thunder Creek, the Suiattle,
the Skagit, the Stehekin, and the
Methow, are the mightiest master-
pieces of mountain, lake, canyon,
river, and cataract scenery in the en-
tire state. Here are Horseshoe Basin,
Agnes Canyon, and North Star Park.
Here is Chelan, ‘‘beautiful water,’’
the diamond setting of the stupen-
dous cireclet of the granitie and vol-
eanic hills. Most of the snowy peaks
in that vast sweep of mountains are
nameless, yet such is their number
that I have been told by a miner that
from one of the loftiest he had count-
ed two hundred distinct snow momn-
tains. The general elevation is about
eight or nine thousand feet.
The finest peaks are Glacier Peak,
Mt. Sahale, Bonanza Peak, North
Star Mountain, Agnes Mountain and
Castle Peak. These are about ten
thousand feet high, though Glacier
Peak rises eight hundred feet higher.
THE MOUNTAINEER. 9
It is indeed higher in appearance
than that. From that thrilling and
significant spot, Cloudy Pass, the
steep cone of Glacier Peak, girt with
olaciers, seems to surpass any other
peak of the state, except the great
king-peak of all, Rainier-Tacoma,
and almost rivals him.
Glacier Peak, with Lake Chelan,
North Star Park, Agnes Canyon, and
Cloudy Pass, affords the most varied
and magnificent outing ground that I
have ever seen, and it is to be com-
mended to the Mountaineers as a
suitable place for an outing. Gla-
eier Peak has never been climbed
so far as I know, except by a party
of scientists under Prof. Russell some
years ago, by a company of miners
whose names I do not know, and by
Mr. C. E. Rusk of Chelan with a
single companion, last summer.
The next great peak south of the
Chelan group is Mt. Stewart, the
most conspicuous height of the Pesh-
astin Spur. It presents a superb
aiguilleted appearance from Ellens-
burg and points adjacent, and is
nearly 10,000 feet high. It has been
ascended, but I can not now state
at what dates or by what parties
other than by members of the U. S.
Geological Survey. With its com-
manding location, the long line of the
great Cascades visible to the west,
the Chelan peaks to the north, and
the vast plains of the Yakima and
the maze of hills and valleys of the
Wenatchee to the east and south,
with the charming lakes at the head
of each of those streams, Mt. Stew-
art would offer also every mountain
attraction to a group of ambitious
climbers. It is easily reached from
the Great Northern Railway at Leav-
enworth.
South of Mt. Stewart the character
of the mountains undergoes a change.
The formation becomes mainly vol-
eanie, with frequent exposures of
granite and porphyry, burst asunder
by the intrusions of molten matter
from below. The general elevation
also is much less,and but rarely there
is afforded the spire-like crags and
stupendous canons characteristic of
stupendous canyons characteristic of
gions. As a compensation for this
general diminution in height and
rugged grandeur, the two greatest
and grandest of the peaks of Wash-
ington rear their stately and solemn
magnificence over this tamer portion
of the chain. These are Rainier-Ta-
coma and Adams. Making with these
two a vast triangle is the lesser, but
most exquisitely beautiful St. Helens,
perhaps for pure beauty the finest
specimen of all our unrivalled peaks.
Heights have been variously given,
but we may probably give the first
at 14,520, the second at 12,534, the
third at 9,850.
Rainier and Adams have been so
many times visited and described as
to make extended description un-
necessary here, as also language be-
comes so inadequate to describe their
aggregations of charms and attrac-
tions of every sort . One who has
rounded Gibraltar Rock on Rainier
and stood on Columbia’s Crest amid
the fierce eddies of elemental winds;
or one who has stood in front of the
awful rampart of snow and ice and
rock with which the Klickitat preci-
pine on Adams faces the sunrise, or
has gazed down its sheer glistening
declivities from above, nearly a mile
of almost perpendicular distance,
feels almost as though he had par-
ticipated with the creator in viewing
the earth at some time when the
‘‘morning stars sang together and
all the sons of God shouted for joy.”’
One knows then the glory of the
mountaineer, the unappeasable thirst
for quaffing from the fountains of
grandeur amid the eternal solitudes,
the fierce wanderlust of the primeval
heart, the gypsy craving for the out-
doors, the restless impulse to cast off
conventionalities and become a part
of those voleanie forces, those thun-
der gods, that smote the original
chaos into form.
10 THE MOUNTAINEER.
Mt. Rainier-Tacoma (I am certain
to get into trouble whichever way I
pronounce it. Would it not be well
to call it the ‘‘Nameless One,’’ the
‘‘T am’’ of mountains) is the world’s
grandest peak. Of course Himalayas
and Andes and a few Alpine peaks
are absolutely higher, but ‘‘globe-
trotters’’ tell us that no other single
isolated peak with so much elevation
immediately above the observer can
be seen from sea-level.
What Milton is to poets, what
Webster is to orators, what Wagner
is to musicians, what Hannibal is to
warriors, what St. Peter’s is to
churches, what the Columbia is to
rivers, What Sirius is to the stars,—
such is our great king-peak to moun-
tains, the symbol of all that is ma-
jestic, elemental, mysterious, sublime.
We might paraphrase Byron’s fine
verses on Mt. Blane thus:
‘Tahoma is monareh of mountains,
They crowned him long ago,
With earthquake shock, on throne
of rock,
And diadem of snow.”’
Though the most elevated, most
difficult and dangerous of all our
great peaks, (unless we except the
special dangers of Kulshan) Rainier
has been often ascended and by sev-
eral large parties. Never but once
has there been a serious accident, the
time of the lamented death of Prof.
MeClure.
Mt. Adams is a worthy brother of
Mt. Rainier. Though two thousand
feet less in height, it has one scene,
the great Klickitat glacier and preci-
pice on the east side, which cannot
be matched by any one scene on the
greater peak. Its parks and _ ice-
caves are marvelous in beauty and
interest.
St. Helens is not so easily reached,
nor hardly so interesting when reach-
ed, its special charm lying in its ex-
quisite symmetry and beauty as seen
at many points on the lower Colum-
bia. ;
The Indian names of Adams an
St. Helens are Klickitat and Loowit.
The origin of these names is found in
a quaint story of the Indians as fol-
lows:
Long ago there was a Tomanous
bridge where the Cascades of the
Columbia now are. There a witch-
woman named Loowit kept the sa-
ered fire, commissioned for the pur-
pose by Sahale. Now the Indians of
that time had no fire and were so
poor and wretched that Loowit
greatly pitied them. She besought
Sahale that he would let her give
them some of the precious fire. He
eranted the request and they were
able to cook and make huts and e@a-
noesand bows and arrows and spears;
they became happier and richer, and
joy reigned through all the land of
the Columbia. But Sahale was so
~ pleased with the faithfulness and
benevolence of Loowit that he told
her she might choose any favor and
he would grant it. She therefore
chose to be transformed from a wrin-
kled old witch into a beautiful young
girl.
It was done. But now troubles
came thick and fast. All the chiefs
fell in love with the beautiful Loo-
wit.
Dissensions followed. Loowit eared
for none but two, one from the south
of the great river named Wiyeast,
and the other from the north named
Klhekitat.
She could not decide between these
two. So in angry rivalry they led
their warriors to battle and each
burned the villages and canoes and
forests of the other. Everything was
wretched and miserable. Sahale waa
sorry that he had granted the sacred
fire and turned Loowit into a beauti-
ful girl. So he lifted his heavy hand
and smote the Tomanous bridge so
that it fell into the river, and then
he struck dead Loowit and her two
lovers. So no longer could one tribe
or the other cross the bridge from
north to south and the river was
THE MOUNTAINEER. 11
dammed with the great blocks of the
bridge. But though Sahale had thus
made an end of Loowit and the rival
chiefs he still loved them, and where
each one fell he reared a mighty peak
as a mark; for Loowit what we now
eall Mt. St. Helens, for Klickitat
what we now eall Adams, and for
Wiveast what we name Hood. Such
Camping site of
was the origin of the three peaks.
As from an island in Puget Sound
on.a clear day just after sunset one
gazes eastward and sees the long line
of sentinel snow peaks, St. Helens
the beautiful dimly on the south,
Adams just rising above the forest
southeastward, Kulshan clear-cut
and glistening white toward the
north, a glittering cone in the center
showing where Glacier Peak lords it
over the wilderness of Borean mon-
archs, and then right in the center,
high over all, triple-crowned, lined
and ridged with the battles of ages,
majestic with the serenity of
eternity, glowing in the rich roseate
hues of the departing sun, the ‘‘ great
white peak, the fountain-breast of
Milk White Waters,’’—he bows to
the earth and involuntarily com-
munes with the immortal and inyvin-
the Mountaineers, during their forthcoming ascent cf Mount Olympus.
cible. One wishes that he might
take the wings of the morning and
fly from peak to peak and build a
shrine on each with the first beams
of the sun. But poor slow human
creatures that we are, we must slow-
ly and painfully elimb, step by step.
But it is well. We touch the sacred
heights with our feet, and Antaeus-
like draw their might at every step.
And there they will wait for us.
For best and grandest about our
mountains, they can wait.
Birds of the High Cascades
By
JE shape of a mountain, be it
conical or roughly pyramid-
al, is symbolic of the attitude
of men thereto; and as the area of its
apex is to its base, so is the number
of the elect who dare or care to
stand on its summit, to the multitude
at the bottom who do not. In lke
manner we shall scarcely expect to
find the birds vying for the honors
of the peak, altho the gratification of
such a whim would be for them com-
paratively easy. Rather are their
haunts and habits dictated to them
by the stern necessities of food-find-
ing, and since few birds may subsist
on souvenir flint flakes and scenery
alone, they follow the ascending alti-
tudes in rapidly descending ratio.
But to compensate for the decreas-
ing bird-life there is an improvement
in quality, which the student of anal-
ogies cannot but note with satisfac-
tion. Quality may appear at first
thought a vague or presumptuous
term to use as a basis of classifica-
tion in bird life, but the illustration
will justify the word. In the matter
of song, for example, four of our
choicest Washington singers, the
Water Ouzel, the Sierra Hermit
Thrush, the Slate-colored Sparrow,
and the Townsend Solitaire, are to
be found exelusively or at their best
in the mountains.
In speaking of the high Cascades,
one excludes the volcanoes, Rainier,
Baker, and the rest, for they are in-
dependent members and are each
worthy of special study; yet it is but
fair to say in passing that each sub-
stantially reproduces the conditions
which obtain in the higher parts of
the main range. In like manner I
eannot assume to speak accurately of
the southern half of the Cascade
by reason of its full plumage.
WILLIAM LEON DAWSON
Range in Washington, for the peaks
in this section do not attain the
heights which prevail in the vicinity
of Glacier Peak and in the areas to
northward. The northern mountains
are therefore the High Cascades par
excellence and it is to this region that
the bird notes gathered below most
strictly apply.
Logically one should begin at the
bottom, but because the birds of the
valley are legion, and because it is
difficult to draw a line of demarea-
tion between lowland and mountain
species, we shall follow the reverse
order and stop on the descent at
about the point where we begin to
feel again the bewildering complex-
ity of every-day life.
There is room at the top of every
mountain, but some of our Cascade
aiguilles, Mt. Sahale, for instance,
are sharp enough to recall the moot
point of scholastic debate, viz., How
many angels can dance on the point
of a needle? One man at a time may
stand over the pinnacle, but to attain
this point he has displaced the pre-
siding genius of all unsealed peaks,
the Hepburn Leucosticte (Leucostic-
te tephrocotis littoralis), from his
favorite perch. Here is the patron
saint of Mountaineers! He alone of
all creatures is at home on the
heights, and he is not even dependent
upon the scanty vegetation which fol-
lows the retreating snows, since he is
able to wrest a living from the very
glaciers. Abysses do not appal him,
nor do the flower-strewn meadows of
the lesser heights alienate his snow-
centered affections.
The Leucosticte, or Rosy Finch, is
only a little longer than a Song Spar-
row, but appears considerably larger
It is
THE MOUNTAINEER. 13
clad in a warm coat of chocolate-
brown, with much edging of rich
rose-red upon the wings and hinder
parts; while the feathers of the fore-
parts and back have irregular whit-
ish and grayish edgings (whence the
name, rather inapropos, meaning
varied by white). Moreover, as an
extra precaution, this boreal bird
wears an ashy gray hood coming
well down on the sides of the head.
Looking out on the chilly wilder-
ness of snow-clad peaks which con-
fronts Leucosticte upon an early day
in June, one wonders what he sees
to justify the assumption of family
eares. Save for a few dripping
south exposures of inhospitable rock,
there is nothing visible which affords
promise of food unless it be the snow
itself. And when one sees a little
company of them moving about de-
murely upon the face of a choppy
snowdrift pecking at the surface
here and there, he begins to enter-
tain an uncanny suspicion that the
bird does eat snow. Closer examina-
tion, however, shows that the surface
of all snow banks, not freshly cov-
ered, 1s sprinkled with insects, in-
sects which the spring gales have
swept up to uncongenial heights and
dropped benumbed or dead with cold.
These battered waifs the Leucostic-
tes gather with untiring patience,
and they are thus able to subsist, as
no other species can, up to the very
summits.
The nest of the Hepburn Leucos-
ticte has not yet been taken, but Mr.
D. E. Brown found them scooping
hollows under grass tussocks on the
middle slopes of Baker, above timber
line, on the 7th of June, 1905. On
the 20th of July, 1900, Professor
Lynds Jones and myself found a
thick-walled grass nest settled upon
the bare rock on the south slope of
the aiguille of Wright’s Peak, at an
elevation of some 9,000 feet, and
within a hundred yards of the sum-
mit; and this could hardly have be-
longed to any other species.
When mountain birds are spoken
of, doubtless the image of the White-
tailed Ptarmigan (Lagopus leucurus)
comes early to mind. These gentle
creatures range by choice somewhat
above timber line in summer, but de-
seend far below it, (as do also the
Leucostictes), in winter. Their win-
ter plumage is pure white, but their
A slope of Mount Baker.
14 THE
summer garments are intended to
harmonize with lichen-covered rocks
and heather-beds, and this they do
admirably, especially in the case of
the female, which is heavily and uni-
formly clad in neutral browns and
grays in a finely mottled pattern.
The guilelessness of the Ptarmigan
is proverbial. A sitting female may
be handled on the nest, and a com-
pany of them one may sometimes
drive before him like over-petted
hens. The males, being less confi-
dent of their protective coloration,
are usually somewhat more wary,
and are sometimes, to your great as-
tonishment, excessively wild. One
sighted upon Wright’s Peak at fifty
yards squawked in an agony of ap-
prehension and fied for further or-
ders, although it is entirely probable
that he had never seen a human be-
ing before.
Two broods are raised in one sea-
son by these industrious fowls, the
eare of the first being apparently en-
trusted to the cock, while the hen
busies herself with the second nest-
ing. Once as I was treading the
heather of a mile-high spur in a sort
of eestasy of mountain rapture, a
mother Ptarmigan dashed up into
my face in a most dream-shattering
fashion. Good cause for alarm tho,
I was near stepping on some of her
chicks, Never did a mother conduct
MOUNTAINEER.
a more gallant retreat, for while
brood number one exploded like
feathered bombs and reassembled to
the father’s eall, she shrieked her
rage from a nearby rock or dashed
at my face repeatedly, in very act to
consume me, and thus make time for
the fledglings of brood number two,
just hatched, to seuttle off thru the
heather. One of the youngest chicks
I eaught in my hand, whereupon the
mother bird made such a furious on-
slaught that I was obliged to defend
myself with my left. I did not hurt
her, but I speedily let the youngster
ovo for fear I should have to. Such
spirit I never saw before! Her cause
was undoubtedly just; but what if a
hen were as big as a man!
The American Pipit (Anthus pen-
silvanicus) keeps to the flower-
sprinkled meadows, or follows hard
upon the retreating snow. We know
him upon the lowlands, a trim little
figure not so large as a Song Spar-
row, grayish brown above and tawny
buff below, with sharp dusky
streaks on throat and breast. But
the neatness of his figure is compro-
mised by the waywardness and irres-
olution of his movements. When
‘fat rest’’ the Pipits keep tilting the
body and wagging the tail most in-
consequently, while in social flight
they straggle out far apart, so as to
allow plenty of room for the chronic
THE OLYM
THE MOUNTAINEER. 15
Bose Rs
St. Vitus dance to jerk them hither
or thither or up or down without
clashing with their fellows. These
birds sweep down upon us in im-
mense numbers in middle autumn
and early winter, but it is not gener-
ally understood that many individu-
als find upon our Cascade heights as
congenial homes as upon the Barren
Grounds of the north.
On the nesting grounds these birds
are somewhat better behaved than
during migrations, having defiinite
business to perform. The male sings
a variety of clinking notes having
something the quality of the Rock
Wren’s (Salpinctes obsoletus) more
familiar cadences; while the female
digs a deep cave in a sunny earth
and lines it heavily with dried
grasses. In this nest she deposits
four or five eggs which are so thickly
dotted with dark brown as to appear
of an almost uniform chocolate color.
A bird somewhat similar to eye
but very different in structure, the
Arctic Horned Lark (Otocoris al-
pestris arcticola) was discovered by
Mr. Brown on the barren slopes ot
Mt. Baker in June, 1905, leagues out
of its supposed breeding range.
which is essentially Aretiec. Moun-
taineers may familiarize themselves
with closely related forms, the
Streaked Horned Lark (0. a. stri-
gata) on the prairies south of Taco-
ma, and the Dusky Horned Lark (O.
a. merrilli) on the sage brush plains
of Eastern Washington, so as to ree-
ognize this Arctie lingerer at sight.
When we are allowed to descend
among the stunted trees we may in-
vestigate the sources of the music
which has been floating up to us like
a sweet and alluring incense. Chief-
est among all the feathered bards of
Washington stands the Hermit
Thrush. The song of the Hermit
Thrush (Hylocichla guttata sierrae
or H. g. nana) is a thing apart. It
is sacred music. Having nothing of
the dash and abandon of Sage
Thrasher or Catbird, least of all the
sportive mockery of the Longtailed
Chat, it is the pure offering of a
shriven soul holding acceptable con-
verse with high heaven. No voice of
solemn-pealing organ or cathedral
choir at vespers ever hymns the part-
ing day more fittingly than this ap-
pointed chorister of the eternal hills.
Mounted on the chancel of some low-
erowned fir tree, the bird looks calm-
ly at the setting sun, and_ slowly
phrases his worship in such duleet
tones, pure, serene, exalted, as must
haunt the corridors of memory for-
ever after.
The Slate-colored Sparrow (Pas-
serella iliaca schistacea) is given as
a resident of ‘‘the Rocky Mountain
16 THE MOUNTAINEER.
district of the United States and
British Columbia’’ and is found com-
monly in the highlands intervening
between the Rockies and the main
range of the Cascades. The discov-
ery of a bird of this type, first upon
Chureh Mountain (across the north
fork of the Nooksack from Baker)
in 1905, and again upon the slopes of
Mt. Sahale in 1906, came in the na-
ture of a surprise; and the Cascade
bird may prove upon further study
to be a distinct form*. Belonging to
the well-known Fox Sparrow group,
the bird of the Cascades appears to
be pre-eminent in song. The singer is
exceedingly modest, and the student
may follow thru the stunted growths
of the upper reaches of timber for
half an hour, without getting a sat-
isfactory view of him, but he will be
teased meanwhile by a succession of
song snatches, sprightly, varied, and
caressing sweet, which will set his
expectation on edge.
Townsend’s Solitaire (Myiadestes
townsendii) is another notable song-
ster, and a queer chap he is all
around. In size approaching that of
the Robin, and in color of a brownish
ash, lightening below, and varied by
black and white in wings and tail,
the Solitaire is like Kipling’s eat, in
that he flits by himself, and all places
are alike to him. Altho the bird
sometimes nests at sea level, you are
more likely to see him at an eleva-
tion of from 5,000 to 8,000 feet, and
to hear the song where the singer
may have a fair field in the open.
The song is an eestatie hurly-burly
of sweet notes, reminding one some-
what of the Sage Thrasher but less
impetuous in delivery. The nest, as
in the case of so many mountain spe-
cies, is set into the soil of a steep
bank in such fashion as to enjoy pro-
tection from rain or unseasonable
snows.
But space fails to tell at such
“The writer means to settle this
point during the coming summer.
length of all the characteristic moun-
tain species. Let us then imagine
ourselves in camp upon some mile-
high divide beside a rock-bound lake-
let, and let the birds come to us. The
lake is necessary for in that case the
Water Ouzels (Cinclus mexicanus
unicolor) will be among our first
visitors. If one has not yet seen one
of these slate-colored morsels wade
about in water ten times over its
head, and icy cold, there is some-
thing to live for. Ouzels also are
famous singers, but they are more
tuneful in March and April than in
July and August.
If our camp be in late July strange
Sandpipers, such as the Red-backed
(Pelidna alpina sakhalina) or
Baird’s (Actodromas bairdi) the
avant couriers of the southward
moving host, will drop down to rest
for a day on the floating ice cakes
of our lake, or else dabble hungrily
in the margins. Of ducks perhaps
only the handsome Harlequin (His-
trionicus histrionicus) will reach
such a high point, and its interest is
rather in the brawling stream than
placid lakes.
When our camp has been well es-
tablished the Gray Jay (Perisoreus
obseurus griseus) commonly ealled
Camp Robber, will make his appear-
ance; and altho usually a silent bird
the joy of discovery may betray him
into strange chucklings of a soft coo-
ing ‘‘Whee-ew.’’ Every mountain-
eer knows the friendly impudence of
this bird and boasts of the times
when he has been induced to pilfer
from the outstretched hand.
The Gray Jay is a little under a
foot in length (but please remember
that birds are usually much longer
than a novice would guess) while the
Clarke Nuteracker (Nucifraga col-
umbiana) is something over. This
bird is of a much lighter gray than
the preceding, with black wings and
tail strongly contrasting, and he has
no interest in the mountaineer’s bill
of fare, for he subsists chiefly upon
THE MOUNTAINEER. 17
the seeds of the pine and fir cones.
{[t is to him we must attribute the
hoarse rrarrk, rrarrk which some-
times fills the air to the momentary
exclusion of all other interests.
Juncoes, whether Oregon (Junco
oreganus), or Shufeldt’s (J. 0. shu-
feldti), nest in Washington from
tidewater to the limit of trees, and
the flash of Junco’s ‘‘banner mark,”’
as the white outer feather of the tail
are called, is an integral part of any
mountain bird picture.
Wherever flowers are found bees
will gather, and likewise the Hum-
mingbirds. The Rufus Hummer
(Selasphorus rufus) is the abundant
species throughout the Northern Cas-
eades and he rises to drain the re-
motest nectar cup, but Allen’s Hum-
mer (Selasphorus alleni) and Call-
ope) (Stellula calliope) may also be
found upon the middle levels.
While encamped upon the summit
of Cascade Pass in June of last year
we were amazed to see not only
Black Cloud Swifts (Cypseloides
niger borealis) but White-throated
Swifts (Aeronautes melanoleucus)
passing and repassing. The latter
species, swifter in motion than a
hurled scimetar, has been previously
reported in Washington only from
the Grand Coulee and the Columbia
River gorge, but it begins to look
as though it might be found breed-
ing about the high cliffs of the high
Caseades. The evidence is inconclu-
sive, however, for a hundred mile
flight before breakfast would be a
mere appetizer for these birds.
Sooty Grouse (Dendgagapus ob-
scurus fuliginosus) and the Frank-
lin’s Grouse (Canachites franklinii)
may be found up to the limit of trees,
the latter so unaccustomed to the
ways of men as to merit the name of
‘fool hen’’ which the prospectors
apply. Both species nest at lower
levels, but having an eye on the
ripening berries, migrate skyward
with the advancing season.
Indeed, this habit of taking sum-
mer vacations in the mountains is
more prevalent among the birds than
is generally supposed. The following
species are more characteristic of the
foothills or mountain valleys during
the nesting season; but they also oc-
eur up to the tree line and are certain
to appear there in numbers during
the mid-summer “‘vacation’’: Moun-
tain Bluebird (Sialia arctica), Va-
ried Thrush (Ixoreus naevius) (eom-
monly called Winter Robin, Oregon
Robin or Mountain Robin), Western
Winter Wren (Olbiorchilus hiemalis
pacifieus) and Red-shafted Flcker
(Colaptes eafer collaris). The bird
‘‘horizon,’’ the total number of spe-
cies to be seen at a given place and
time, thus increases steadily from
June to August. For example, while
encamped upon the Cascade Summit
during the last week in June at an
altitude of from 5.000 to 6,000 feet.
Mr. Bowles and I listed only seven-
teen species of birds. On Wright’s
Peak during the third week of July.
1900 and at an altitude of 8,000 feet
Professor Jones and I listed twenty-
five species in three days.
And it was to laugh to find among
these last a Brewer’s Sparrow (Spiz-
ella breweri). a nondescript morsel
of brown feathers, the scion of an un-
distinguished race. a prosy plains-
man, a helot of the prostrate soil.
What! This peasant a Mazama too!
You were begotten, reared and
mated in the level sage, and but for
this, I wot, vou would have died
there. But for this! Why. then.
your pardon, Little Brother. We had
misjudged you. And you are very
welcome too. Aspiration is the proof
of worth. Not the Leueostiete wins
more praise—for that he started
higher. Together then! Excelsior!
The Peak! The Peak! And here’s
to all who love the mountains!
Annals of the Historian
On the call of a volunteer commit-
tee, consisting of Dr. C. 8. Eaton, Dr.
Weldon Young and Mr. Asahel Cur-
tis, members of the Mazamas and
other mountain ¢climbers living in Se-
atle, met at the residence of Dr. and
Mrs. E. 8S. Stevens on November 6,
1906, for the purpose of arranging
for a weleome to Dr. Frederick A.
Cook and party, on their return from
the first successful ascent of Mt. Me-
Kinley.
On motion of Dr. J. P. Sweeney,
the temporary committee was made a
permanent one, with Dr. Young,
chairman and Dr. Eaton secretary.
A committee on resolutions was ap-
pointed, consisting of Mr. Curtis, Mr.
Williams, Dr. Maud Parker, Dr. E.
F. Stevens and Miss Hubert. This
committee drafted the following reso-
lution, which was adopted: ‘‘ Resolv-
ed, That a committee be appointed
to communicate with the Mazama
and Sierra Clubs and their represen-
tatives in the several cities on the
Pacifie coast, to learn from them
what form of local club we may or-
ganize to best promote the interests
of the parent clubs. both to foster
sentiment and to train candidates
for the annual outings, and further,
this committee shall arrange for a
meeting for those in Seattle interest-
ed in mountaineering at some early
date, to discuss the formation of a
elub.’’
As a result of this resolution, other
meetings were held, and a committee
of five, consisting of Mr. E. L. Hamp-
ton, Dr. Sweeney, Mr. Curtis, Dr.
Eaton and Miss Banks was appointed
to draft a constitution and by-laws.
The constitution prepared by this
committee was finally adopted, and a
permanent organization effected, al-
though the first regular meeting of
the Club was not held until Jan. 18,
1907. Previous to this meeting per-
manent quarters had been secured
in the Chamber of Commerce rooms,
through the courtesy of that organ-
ization, and the following officers
elected: President, Prof. Henry
Landes; Vice-President, Dr. J. P.
Sweeney; Secretary, Dr. Cora Smith
Eaton; Treasurer, Dr. E. F. Stevens;
Historian, Miss Mary Banks.
At this meeting the appointment
of the “several standing committees
was announced by the president, the
question of annual and local outings
was discussed, and a splendid collec-
tion of photographs of Mount Baker,
taken by Mr. Curtis, was shown.
It was decided to hold the charter
list open until the next meeting, to
allow those who had not yet been
reached to enter as charter members.
At the February meeting the
Chamber of Commerce rooms were
erowded, standing room only being
accorded the late comers. The ocea-
sion was a lecture, accompanied by
stereopticon views illustrating the
Harriman expedition to Alaska, by
Prof. Trevor Kineaid, the entomolo-
gist of the party, and a member of
the Mountaineers. Those who had
anticipated a dry-as-dust scientific
treatise were agreeably surprised by
the fund of aneedote and quiet hu-
mor which enlivened the scientific
facts in such a way as to interest the
most untechnieal.
Sunday, February 17, was the date
of The Mountaineers’ first local out-
ing. Promptly at 9:30 a. m. forty-
eight members and their guests made
the start for Fort Lawton. At the
fort they were met by Captain H. A.
Smith, who gave them a cordial wei-
come; from there a brief walk
through the woods brought the party
to the West Point light house, where
they were greeted by the light house
keeper, Mr. Thomas, and his family.
Here a camp-fire was made and
A TRIP TO THE WEST POINT LIGHT.
Gne of the local walks of the Mountaineers taken in February.
IN CAMP.
Scene at the lunch hour, during one of the local walks of the Mountaineers.
20 THE MOUNTAINEER.
luncheon eaten. The return was made
at low tide by way of the beach
to give those interested in marine
life an opportunity to gather speci-
mens.
The second outing was on March
3. This included a trip to Lake
Washington, from there to Kirkland
by boat, with a seven-mile tramp
along the belt-line road. The regu-
lar March meeting occurred on the
15th, with the rooms again crowded.
After the regular business, Prof.
John B. Flett, of Tacoma, gave an
interesting lecture on ‘‘The Botany
of the Olympic Mountains.’’ This
was followed by an address by Mr.
Curtis on ‘‘The Mazamas Ascent of
Mount Baker,’’ illustrated by over
one hundred slides made by him
from photographs taken on the trip.
Mr. Flett also exhibited a number of
botanical specimens on the screen.
The third local trip, Saturday,
March 16, to American Lake, necessi-
tated a start at 6:45 a. m. Fifty mem-
bers participated in this outing, in-
cluding more than the usual quota of
scientists, with the result that more
accurate records were made than on
any previous walk. One ornitholo-
gist listed thirty-four birds seen in
the ten miles traversed, while a bot-
anist from Tacoma reported finding
fifty-eight distinct specimens by the
way. For those not interested in nat-
uralhistory, stops were made at Steil-
acoom and Wright Park, the party
reaching Seattle about 9:45 p. m.
The Ascent of Mt. Olympus
Official Announcement of the Outing Committee.
Annual Outing of The Mountaineers
First
HE club outing is intended as
a co-operative one, arranged
to give the greatest pleasure
to its members that can be gained
from a trip in the mountains, with-
out the burden of cooking and pack-
ing supphes. In this the Outing Com-
mittee represents the individual
members and expects their co-opera-
tion in making the outing as suc-
cessful as possible at a minimum ex-
pense.
Written notice should at once be
given the Secretary by all those in-
tending to participate in the outing.
This notice will not be considered
binding but is desired to get some
idea of the number who plan on tak-
ing the trip. As the number who ean
be accommodated will be limited,
those who desire to go should see
Plans for the
that their names are in early. The
first on the list will be given the
preference.
This notice should be sent to Dr.
Cora Smith Eaton. Secretary The
Mountaineers, 482 Arcade Building,
Seattle.
The first annual outing of The
Mountaineers will be into the Olym-
pics, by way of the Elwha river, to
make the ascent of Mt. Olympus.
The party will leave Seattle in two
detachments, the first one on
Wednesday, July 24th, and the see-
ond on Thursday, August Ist. Camp
will be established at the head of the
Elwha river, near the base of Mt.
Olympus, and will be maintained
during the outing. The outing is
intended to last three weeks, but per-
sons who wish to return to Seattle
THE MOUNTAINEER. 21
within two weeks can do so by spe-
cial arrangement with the Outing
Committee.
Mount Olympus is situated in the
northwestern part of the Olympic
range, and is the highest point in
the range, being 8,200 feet high. It
is a great bulk of rock and ice, un-
timbered in its upper regions, and the
heavy snows which prevail over this
range form here a group of beauti-
ful glaciers, remarkable for so low
a peak. These glaciers appear to be
moving rapidly and fall over great
erags into the head of the Hoh river
on the east and northeast, and into
the Queets river on the southeast and
south.
This mountain and the adjacent
country is the least known of the
Olympic range and probably of all
mountain regions in the United
States. Very few of the peaks have
been climbed, even by the Forest
Reserve parties. Many of these
peaks are unnamed and their alti-
tudes are unknown. The club ex-
pects to climb a number which are
near the main camp. Mount Ander-
son, pronounced by many more beau-
_ tiful than Olympus, can be reached
easily in a day’s trip.
There is no record of anyone hav-
ing made the ascent of Mount
Olympus. Mr. W. R. Delebarre, of
Port Angeles, states regarding it:
‘‘T have traced down every report
I have heard of an ascent, and have
assured myself that the peak is un-
climbed.’’
Mr. Grant Hume, whose home is
in ‘Geyser valley on the Elwha river,
attempted the ascent in 1906 wiih
two companions, but was driven off
the mountain by a storm. They
reached a point on the ridge drained
by the Elwha, Queets and Hoh rivers,
and saw no impassable barriers be-
tween them and the summit, which
appeared to be not much over a mile
away. The summit was a well de-
fined pinnacle, higher than the sur-
rounding crags.
The Trail.
is The party will be taken by stages
from Port Angeles to the Elwha at
MeDonald, a distance of ten miles.
At McDonald they will leave the
road and ‘“‘hit the trail’? where the
walking will begin. The trail for
the most part follows the Elwha,
starting at a point about 200 feet
above sea level and gradually climb-
ing until snow-line is reached at
about 5,000 feet. The trail itself is
in good condition and will cause no
trouble to the average walker. Sev-
eral days will be required to reach
permanent camp, each day’s walk
not much exceeding ten miles. The
way les through a dense forest of
fir, cedar, hemlock, alder and vine
maple and should prove one of the
attractions of the trip. At the high-
er altitudes the lowland trees give
way to the Alaska cedar, mountain
larch and the beautiful silver fir.
Above these are the grasses and flow-
ers of the upland meadows, in one
of which our permanent camp will
be located.
Fishing.
No other region in the United
States can furnish better fishing than
the Olympic peninsula. Dolly Var-
den and Rainbow trout are abun-
ant. The Elwha river and its trib-
utaries are swarming with trout,
and most of the pools have never
had a fiy cast in them. A side
trip ean be made to Lake Cres-
ent, eight miles from MeDonald,
where the famous Beardsley trout
test the skill of the fisherman.
Hunting.
Hunting will not be allowed, as
the game laws prohibit it during the
time the party will be in the moun-
tains. However, large bands of elk
have been seen here by several per-
sons, and pictures have been taken,
showing 75 animals feeding in one
park. It is probable that an oppor-
tunity will be had to see and photo-
graph many of them during the out-
ing. In addition to the elk there are
29 THE
deer, harmless black bears, whistling
marmots, blue grouse, ptarmigan
and other wild creatures, which will
add interest to the outing.
Personnel.
The outing is arranged for Moun-
taineers, in good standing, for mem-
bers of their families over twelve
years of age, and for their intimate
invited friends.
Nature lovers and mountain elimb-
ers, not members of the club, recom-
mended by two members, may apply
to the committee for membership in
the outing and, if accepted, will pay
in addition to the regular deposit an
enrollment fee of five doilars ($5.00).
Invitation to join in the outing is
extended to members of all recog-
nized mountain clubs, recommended
by their secretaries, who will be en-
rolled for the outing on the same
basis as members of the Mountain-
eers.
Camping Trip.
It should be distinctly understood
that this excursion is to be a camp-
ing trip, and when the party has left
Port Angeles there will be no hotels
where meals or beds can be obtained.
However, it is the purpose of the
Committee to lighten, as much as
possible, the burdens ordinarily in-
eident to camping and thus leave
more time for the enjoyment of the
mountains.
Any person possessed of ordinary
health and strength, who is an aver-
age walker, can make this trip.
However, invalids should not at-
tempt it. Though the Committee
will do all in its power to make every
one comfortable, yet, of necessity,
each one will be required to look out
for himself. Before attempting this
excursion each one should satisfy
himself that he has the physical
qualifications.
What the Club Provides.
The Committee will provide a gen-
eral commissary outfit, including pro-
MOUNTAINEER.
visions, stove and cooking utensils,
general assembly tents, and enough
tents to shelter the party in an
emergency. It will also provide
cooks and dishwashers, a pack-train
and packers. It will transport from
Seattle to the various camps and re-
turn all personal baggage properly
enclosed in regulation dunnage bags,
weight not to exceed fifty pounds
per person.
It will also furnish transportation
from Seattle to Port Angeles and re-
turn, and meals after the party
leaves Port Angeles. Meals and bed
on the boat or at Port Angeles will
be at the member’s expense but will
not exceed $2.50 for the round trip.
Transportation, Pack and Saddle
Animals.
The Committee will exercise gen-
eral supervision over all transporta-
tion of passengers and baggage. All
baggage should be delivered at the
dock at the time given in the final
announcement, which will be sent to
all who signify that they are going
on the outing. Suit cases, left
tagged with the owner’s name will
be eared for until the return of the
party.
The Committee assumes no respon-
sibility for saddle animals. The pack
train and the accommodation of walk-
ers is the sole consideration as far
as they are concerned. The Commit-
tee has no objection to having mem-
bers of the party procure saddle ani-
mals wherever they can, but the care
of such animals must be provided
for by those who procure them.
During the trip into the moun
tains, each day an early start will be
made to get the pack-train through,
and when on the march each person
is to prepare his own baggage ready
for the pack-train, and to deposit it
at the point of departure of the
pack-train, at the time arranged by
by the Committee.
On these tramps a lunch will be
carried by each member of the party,
THE MOUNTAINEER. 23
and no effort will be made to serve
any meals except breakfast and din-
ner.
Rules and Regulations.
Those joining the outing are not
required to climb mountains, and do
not have to make the ascent of
Mount Olympus, nor does the Com-
mittee guarantee that they will be
permitted to do so unless they have
proven capable. Ample opportunity
will be given to ‘‘try out’’ on the
many short trips taken before the
main climb. The Committee plans
to have each day, at least one, and
on many days two trips to points of
interest that can be reached in one
day from the main camp. These will
be under leaders appointed hy the
Committee.
(1) Wherever occasion requires,
as in the ease of climbing mountains,
it is to be distinctly understood that
whatever arrangements the Commit-
tee makes must be implicitly fol-
lowed. The discipline will not be
onerous, but it must be submitted to,
and anyone joining the outing, by
such act, gives his implied promise to
abide by such reasonable regulations
as the Committee adopts.
(2) No tips, gratuities or other
considerations shall be paid by any-
ore participating in the outing to
any employees.
(3) No personal baggage wil! be
accepted for transportation on the
pack-train, unless packed in dunnage
_bags of dimensions and shape as {ol-
lows: Cylindrical canvas bags not
to exceed, when packed, three feet
in length and eighteen inches in di-
ameter, plainly marked with the
names and addresses of their owners.
The address should be painted on the
bag before starting. If the dunnage
bag is white use black paint, if of
brown use white. This will aid in
finding bags quickly when making
camp.
Weight of each individual’s bag-
gage when packed in bag not to ex-
ceed fifty pounds. Musical instru-
ments need not be included in this, as
the Committee desires to encourage
members in taking them for campfire
entertainment.
Personal Outfit.
Each member of the party must
provide his own personal effects.
Take only the things necessary for
comfort, as it is annoying to care for
a lot of useless articles.
Bedding: Two heavy double
blankets, or their equivalent in com-
forters, with water-proof canvas or
rubber poncho; or better still, a reg-
ular sleeping bag will be found suffi-
cient.
One tramping suit of some good
stout material such as denim, khaki
or corduroy. Women should have
one durable waist for tramping, and
one to wear around camp. The
skirt should be short, not much be-
low the knee, and under it should
be worn bloomers.
The underclothing should be such
as one would » ear in winter, and one
change should «2 taken.
Foot-wear is a very important
thing. One pair, at least, of stout,
well fitting, easy wearing shoes,
with soles one-half inch thick, to
hold ealks and well nailed with hob
or Hungarian nails, are essential.
These should be well oiled before the
outing and some good water-proof oil
taken along. It would be a distinet
advantage to have these shoes brok-
en in before the outing, for if one’s
feet are blistered by the first day’s
walking the whole pleasure of the
outing may be spoiled. <A lighter
pair of shoes, such as tennis shoes, to
wear around camp is also good.
Leggings are recommended unless
high boots are worn, and women find
them desirable to wear around camp
with light shoes.
Several pairs of moderately heayy
socks or stockings should be taken.
Two pairs of medium weight socks
will prevent chafing and blistering.
24 THE MOUNTAINEER.
Chamois skin heel protectors, or ad-
hesive plaster apphed in strips, will
also serve as a protection against
chafing.
Any sort of light, broad-brimmed
hat can be worn. A fine mesh mos-
quito head net is needed as_ there
may be mosquitoes in the lower val-
leys.
Colored glasses will be essential.
Women should also carry heavy veils
to protect the face from burning
when on the snow. Grease paint
should also be taken as a protection
from snow-burn.
It is recommended that each mem-
ber of the party take a small haver-
sack to earry the lunch on daily
trips. In all rock climbing there is
danger of a’knapsack swinging from
side to side and interfering with
one’s movement. Therefore the hav-
ersack, fitted as a pack on the back,
is much the safer.
Each member should also have a
good serviceable alpine stock, fitted
with a steel point, and should have
a full set of screw calks that can be
set easily, when necessary for ice
work.
Tents are essential, but will sel-
dom be used to sleep in. The Com-
mittee will have several at the main
camp, but wherever possible the
members should arrange to have
tents of their own. If three or four
could arrange to occupy a tent it
would lessen the expense to each one
and easily keep their baggage within
the limit.
The packing of the above outfit is
an important point, and reference is
made to section 3 under Rules and
Regulations regarding the size and
dimensions of the bag required. The
weight and size limit given there will
have to be rigidly enforced. If the
bags are over weight or over size
they will have to be left at Port An-
geles.
It will add greatly to the enjoy-
ment of the trip if those who possess
musical instruments would take
them along, and the Committee will
do all it can to aid members in this
matter. The evening camp-fire will
be one of the attractions of the trip.
A special program committee will be
in charge each evening.
Expense.
The expense of the outing will be
forty dollars ($40.00), and _ this
amount will entitle one to partici-
pate in its privileges for three weeks,
and it will, without doubt, cover all
expense, so that no further assess-
ment will have to be levied. Those
wishing to return to Seattle within
two weeks can do so by making a
special arrangement with the Com-
mittee.
Since the provisions and outfit
must be purchased for cash, and will
have to be forwarded several weeks
in advance, it will be necessary for
each person, who desires to make the
trip, to send to the Secretary of The
Mountaineers a deposit of twenty
dollars, to cover this expense. THIS
MUST BE DONE NOT LATER
THAN JUNE IST.
Since the provisions for a definite
number will have been purchased
weeks in advance and packed into
the mountains, the deposits made by
people who find themselves unable
to join the outing cannot be refund-
ed. However, their places could be
filled by some one acceptable to the
Committee.
Send money by check or money-
order, payable to ‘‘The Mountain-
eers,’’ and mail it to the Secretary,
Dr. Cora Smith Eaton, 482 Areade
Building, Seattle.
Mail.
Mail will be brought to the main
camp and sent out once or twice a
week. All mail should be addressed,
Care THE MOUNTAINEERS, Port
Angeles, Washington.
Outing Committee.
Asahel Curtis, 627 Colman Build-
ing, Chairman.
W. M. Price, 907 First Avenue.
Dr. Cora Smith Eaton, 482 Arcade
Building.
THE MOUNTAINEER. 25
Constitution and By-Laws
ARTICLE I.
Name.
The name of this organization shall be
The Seattle Mountaineer’s Club, Auxil-
iary to the Mazamas.
ARTICLE II.
Objects.
The object of this organization shall be
to explore the mountains, forests and
water courses of the Pacific Northwest,
and to gather into permanent form the
history and traditions of this region; to
preserve, by protective legislation or
otherwise, the natural beauty of the
Northwest coast of America; to make
frequent or periodical expeditions into
these regions in fulfillment of the above
purposes. Finally, and above all, to en.
courage and promote the spirit of good
fellowship and comradery among the
lovers of out-door life in the West.
ARTICLE III.
Membership.
Section 1. Anyone above the age of
seventeen years who is in sympathy with
the purposes of the club is eligible for
membership.
Sec. 2. There shall be two classes of
members—active and honorary.
Sec. 3. Active members shall be
elected by a unanimous vote of the board
of directors after being recommended by
two members.
Sec. 4. Honorary members may be
selected by unanimous vote of the
board of directors; the limit as to num-
ber being 25.
ARTICLE IV.
Board of Directors.
Section 1. The affairs of the Club shall
be managed by a Board of nine Directors,
who shall be elected at the annual meet-
ing. Five Directors shall constitute a
quorum.
Sec. 2. A nominating committee,
elected by the Club, at the meeting next
preceding the annual meeting shall place
in nomination eighteen members in good
standing from whom the Club shall by
ballot elect the nine Directors.
ARTICLE V.
Officers.
The Board of Directors immediately
after being duly elected shall meet and
elect from their number the following
officers:
President,
Vice President,
Secretary,
Treasurer,
Historian.
ARTICLE VI.
Duties of Officers.
Section 1. The President shall preside
at all meetings of the Board of Directors
and of the Club. He shall not be de-
prived of his vote by reason of his office.
He shall appoint, subject to confirmation
by the Board of Directors, the following
standing committees, consisting of three
members each:
1. Outing Committee.
2. House Committee.
3. Program Committee.
4. Publication Committee.
And such other special committees as
may be needed.
Sec. 2. The Secretary shall act as such
for the Board of Directors and the Club,
and shall record the minutes of their
meetings, be ex-officio member of the Out-
ing Committee, receive all monies and
care for all records and papers belonging
to the Club; he shall keep account of and
properly turn over to the Treasurer all
funds of the Club which may come into
his hands; he shall make and keep a cor-
rect list of the members of this Club in
good standing, noting of each his correct
name, address and date of membership,
and it shall be his duty to send annually
a copy of such lists to the Historian of
this Club and to the Secretary of the Ma-
zamas. He shall keep a record of all
official outings and in so far as possible
the mountaineering achievements of the
members of the club.
Sec. 3. The Treasurer shall receive all
dues and monies belonging to the club
from the hands of the Secretary, giving
his receipt for same, and shall keep a
eorrect account of all monies received by
him, and shall only pay out the same
upon the written order of the Secretary,
countersigned by the President of the
Club.
ARTICLE VII.
Duties of Committees.
Section 1. The Outing Committee shall
have entire charge of all outings, includ-
ing receipt and disbursements of the out-
ing funds.
Sec. 2. The House Committee shall
have charge of the Club headquarters,
and of such receptions, entertainments or
other functions as may be held by the
Club.
Sec. 3. The Program Committee shall
outline the program for each meeting,
siving notice to the members thru the
Secretary by mail.
Sec. 4. The Publication Committee
shall include the Historian. It shall have
full charge of all publications authorized
by the Club, and act as the official mouth-
26 THE MOUNTAINEER.
piece to the public press. The chairman
of the committee shall be the Club Editor.
ARTICLE VIII.
Meetings.
Section 1. The annual meetings shall
be on the third Friday in November of
each year.
Sec. 2. Regular meetings shall be held
on the third Friday of the month, Octo-
ber to May inclusive. :
Sec. 8. Fifteen members shall consti-
tute a quorum.
Sec. 4. Special meetings may be called
by the President, or a quorum of the
Board of Directors.
ARTICLE IX.
Dues.
The annual dues for members shall be
Charter
Mr. Geo. G. Altnow, 1901 Fifth Ave. (P.
O. box 191), Seattle.
Mr. A. W. Archer, 518 Second Ave. (203
Collins Building), Seattle.
Mr. Lyman T. Banks, 707 West Prospect
St., Seattle.
Miss Mary Banks, Seattle Public Library,
Seattle.
Mr. Elliott CC. Barnes, Banff, Alberta,
Canada.
Miss Anne Bartel, 1404 Boylston Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Margaret W. Bayne, Kirkland,
Wash.
Miss Alida J. Bigelow, 1139 Bighteenth
Ave. N., Seattle.
Mr. J. Fred Blake, 1809 Harvard Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Cassandra A. Boggs, 600 Madisun
St., Seattle.
Mr. Erastus Brainerd, Post-Intelligenceer
Bldg., Seattle.
Miss Annie C. Brayton, 1404 Boylston
Ave., Seattle.
Mr. D. M. Brosseau, 401 North Forest,
Bellingham, Wash.
Prof. Edward E. Bugbee, 5215 Fifteenth
Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Miss Ida M. Burnham, 1725 Minor Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Ada W.. Byers, Parental School,
Seattle.
Miss Elsie Carr, 1733 Belmont Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Alice M. J. Casey, 502 East Union
St., Seattle.
Mr. Eugene A. Childe, 457 Arcade Bldg.,
Seattle.
Mr. Ernest H. Cherrington, 496 Arcade
Bldg., Seattle.
Mrs. Ernest H. Cherrington, 308 Hayes
St., Seattle.
Miss Estelle Chopson, 120-A West
Thomas St., Seattle.
Mr. J. H. Closson, 122 Occidental Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. Wm. E. Colby, 2901 Channing Way,
Berkeley, Cal.
Miss Lucy K. Cole, The Fairfield, Seattle.
Miss Emma lL. Collins, 702 Minor Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. C. P. Constantine, care Miles-Piper
Co., Seattle.
Miss Alma B. Covey, 912
second St., Seattle.
Dr. Martha G. Covey, 912 East Forty-
second St., Seattle.
Mr. Asahel Curtis, 1115 Thirty-sixth Ave.,
Seattle.
East Forty-
$2.00, payable in advance.
; ARTICLE X.
Mazama Auxiliary.
This Club shall work as auxiliary to
the Mazamas under a constitution ac-
ceptable to them.
ARTICLE XI.
Amendments.
This constitution may be amended at
any regular meeting by a four-fifths vote
of the members present, written notice
having been given at the previous meet-
ing.
ARTICLE XII.
Rules of Order.
Roberts’ Rules of Order shall be
authority in all parliamentary matters be-
fore the Club.
Members
Mrs. Florence Curtis, 1115 Thirty-sixth
Ave., Seattle.
Miss Eva Curtis, 1729 Twenty-fifth Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Rose Olive Daugherty, 1460 Twen-
tieth Ave., Seattle.
Dr. Wm. Leon Dawson, 5528 Fifteenth
Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Miss Katherine DeLand, 4519 Fourteenth
Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Mr. Robert DeLand, 1220 Boylston Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. J. A. Douglas, 414 Thirteenth Ave.
N., Seattle.
Mr. J. A. Dummett, 309 Boylston Ave. N.,
Seattle.
Dr. Cora Smith Eaton, 482 Arcade Bldg.,
Seattle.
Miss Bella Edith Fisken, 1411 Minor Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. C. E. Ford, S. W. corner Fourth and
Pike, Seattle.
Mrs. Emma Gary Ford, S. W.
Fourth and Pike, Seattle.
Mr. C. E. Forsyth, Box 105, Castle Rock,
Wash.
Prof. Theodore C. Frye, 4229 Brooklyn
Ave., Seattle.
Miss Hilda Gaches, 5023 Fifteenth Ave.
N. E., Seattle.
Mr. James Gibson, 736 Eleventh Ave. N.,
Seattle.
Miss Lydia Graham, 804 North Second
St., Tacoma.
536 North Seventy-
Miss May Grinnell,
490 Arcade Bldg.,
corner
sixth St., Seattle.
Mr. E. L. Hampton,
Seattle.
Mrs. E. L. Hampton, 927 Seventeenth Ave.
N., Seattle.
Miss Ina M. Hanna, 1902 Fifteenth Ave.
S., Seattle.
Miss Adelaide Hanscom,
Bldg., Seattle.
Mr. H. H. A. Hastings, 64 Haller Bldg.,
Seattle.
Mr. G. Havers, 408 Bell St., Seattle.
Mrs. Florence Hotchkiss, 1423 Second
Ave. W., Seattle.
Miss Anna Hubert, 1619 Summit Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. Richard G. Hutchinson, 306 New
York Block Seattle.
Major E. S. Ingraham, 501 Fifteenth Ave.
People’s Bank
N., Seattle.
Mr. K. C. Ingraham, 501 Fifteenth Ave.
No., Seattle.
Mrs. Myra C. Ingraham, 501 Fifteenth
Ave. No., Seattle.
THE MOUNTAINEER. 27
Miss Gracia L. Jenks, Annandale, Minn.
Mr. Will T. Johnston, 1809 Harvard Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. Archibald A. Jones, 113 Seneca St.,
Seattle.
Miss Nancy Emerson Jones, 708 Belmont
Place, Seattle.
Miss Anna Kelly, 1460 Twentleth Ave.,
Seattle.
Dr. Sarah Kendall, 477 Arcade Bldg.,
Miss Nellie Kenaga, 1627 Belmont Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Jessie L. Kenyon, 1226 Hast Madi-
son St., Seattle.
Miss Florence Ketcham, 1226 East Madi-
son St., Seattle.
Miss Reka B. Kiler, 600 Madison St.,
Seattle.
Prof. Trevor Kincaid, 4526 Brooklyn Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Zoe Kincaid, 4526 Brooklyn Ave.,
Seattle.
Mra oH. ii. Kiser, 921 Mast. Stark St.
Portland, Ore.
Prof. Charles Landes, 410 South C St,
Tacoma, Wash.
Mrs. Bertha K. Landes, 4503 Brooklyn
Ave., Seattle.
Prof. Henry Landes, 4503 Brooklyn Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Daisy Lane, 4541 Fourteenth Ave.
N. E., Seattle.
Mr. Harry N. Leckenby, Brighton Beach,
Seattle.
Miss Mollie BE. Leckenby, Brighton Beach,
Seattle.
Miss Tallulah Le Conte, 427 Forest St.,
Bellingham, Wash.
Mr. L. D. Lindsley, 522 Fourth Ave. N.,
Seattle.
Miss Margaret L. McCarney, 1113 Terry
Ave., Seattle.
Mr. J. C. McCrary, 334-335 Globe Bldg.,
Seattle.
Mrs. Mary L. McDonald, 480 Kensington
Place, Pasadena, Cal.
Miss Elizabeth Abe McDonell, 4116
Brooklyn Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Miss Letitia MacElvaney, 4519 Four-
teenth Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Miss Marie McGill, 4317 Fourteenth Ave.
N. E., Seattle.
Miss Anna A. McGlinch, 502 East Union
St., Seattle.
Mr. P. M. McGregor,
Seattle.
Miss M. Ella McGuire, 1102 Ninth Ave.,
The Glencairn.
Mr. W. C. McKenzie, care Seattle Hard-
ware Co., Seattle.
Prof. C. Edward Magnusson, University
Station, Seattle.
Prof. Robert E. Moritz, 4705 Forty-sev-
enth Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Miss Ethelda Morrison, 762 Bellevue Ave.
N., Seattle.
Prof. F. M. Morrison, 4719 Fifteenth Ave.
N. E., Seattle.
Mr. L. F. Murdock, 1611 Fifteenth Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Anna H. Murray, 1422 Harvard Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Christine Murray,
Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Mr. W. Edward Newbert, 2910 Fast Re-
publican St., Seattle.
Miss Christine Niedergesaess, 1235 Tenth
Ave. W., Seattle.
Miss Gertrude L. Niedergesaess,
Tenth Ave. W., Seattle.
Prof. F.- M. Padelford,
Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Dr. L. Maud Parker,
Seattle.
Miss Adella M. Parker, 419 Boylston Ave.
N., Seattle.
Mr. E. T. Parsons,
San Francisco, Cal.
Miss Louise Peckenpaugh,
Thomas St., Seattle.
330 Globe Bldg.,
3955 Fifteenth
1235
4711 Fifteenth
Lumber Exchange,
131-1383 Second St.,
1017 East
—
Mr. Paul B. Phillips, 523 Alaska Bldg.,
Seattle.
ae EF. H. Plumb, 1729 Minor Ave., Se-
attle.
Miss Adelaide L. Pollock, The Fairfield,
Seattle.
Mr. W. Montelius Price, care Seattle Elec-
tric Co., Seattle.
Prof. D. S. Pulford, DeKoven Hall, South
Tacoma, Wash.
Mr. E. E. Richards,
Seattle.
Mrs. E. E. Richards, 1733 Belmont Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Milnora De B. Roberts, 4505 Fif-
teenth Ave. N. E., Seattle.
Prof. Milnor Roberts, 4505 Fifteenth Ave.
N. E., Seattle.
Miss Helena Rucker, 907 Boren Ave., The
Allendorf, Seattle.
Miss Lavina C. Rudberg, 4730 Ninth Ave.
N. E., Seattle.
Mr. Chas. W. Russell, 141 North Seventy-
fourth St., Seattle.
Mr. E. L. SkKeel,
1733 Belmont Ave.,
546 New York Block.,
Portland, Ore.
Dr. B. R. Stevens, 1505 East Madison St.,
Seattle.
Dr. E. F. Stevens, 1505 East Madison St.,
Seattle.
Mrs. V. E. Stevens, 1505 East Madison St.,
Seattle.
Miss Hattie A. Strang, 3903 Eastern Ave.,
Seattle.
Dr. John P. Sweeney, 307 Harvard Ave.
N., Seattle.
Mrs. John P. Sweeney, 307 Harvard Ave.
N., Seattle.
Miss Josephine E. Sweeney, 307 Harvard
Ave. N., Seattle.
Miss Mary C. Sweeney, 307 Harvard Ave.
N., Seattle.
Miss Belle Tellier,
N., Seattle.
Miss Bertha Tellier, 913 Eighteenth Ave.
N., Seattle.
Mr. John F. Tenney, 715 New York Block,
Seattle.
913 Eighteenth Ave.
Mr. J. W. Thatcher, 1904 Fourth Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. £#. HH. Thomas, 1007 Marion &St.,
Seattle.
Miss Jennie E. Thompson, 510 Ninth Ave.,
Flat B, Seattle.
Prof. David Thomson, 4229 Brooklyn Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. Joseph Treadeau, 58 Holyoke Block,
Seattle.
Mr. J. B. Umpleby, Men’s Dormitory, U.
of W., Seattle.
Mrs. Emma Comstock Van Wickle, 708
Belmont Place, Seattle.
Mr. Geo. E. Vincent, 907 Boren Ave.,
Seattle.
Mrs. Geo. E. Vincent, 907 Boren Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. Arthur C. Warner, 1013 Belmont
Place, Seattle.
Miss Eva B.
Olympia, Wash.
Mr. C. M. Williams, 325 New York Block,
Seattle.
Mr. Geo. S. Wilson,
St., Seattle.
Mr. Jack Wishaar,
Seattle.
Mr. W. Hartwell Woodworth, 1434 Twen-
Webster, £01 Union St.,
1216 East Harrison
2314 Seventh Ave.,
tieth Ave., Seattle.
Mr. Frank Wright, 824 iwenty-first Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. Geo. E. Wright, 1227 Thirty-eighth
Ave. N., Seattle.
Mrs. Mary E. Wright, 1227 Thirty-eighth
Ave. N., Seattle.
Mr. Wm. H. Wright, 506 Thirteenth Ave.
N., Seattle.
Dr. E. Weldon Young, 217
change, Seattle.
Lumber Ex-
28 THE MOUNTAINEER.
New Members
Mr. Eric W. Allen, 113 Third Ave. §.,
Seattle.
Mrs. Ida Elliott Allen, 1547 Seventeenth
Ave. No., Seattle.
Dr. John W. Bailey, 4541 Fourteenth Ave.
N. E., Seattle.
Miss H. May Baptie, 1921 Third Ave. W.,
Seattle.
Madison St.,
Mr. Chas.
Seattle.
Miss Clara M. Bryan, 1717 Belmont Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. Samuel
Seattle.
Mr. J. C. Dennis,
coma.
Mr. Leslie Everly,
rooms 203-5, Seattle.
Dr. Myra L. Everly, 1414 Second Ave,
rooms 203-5, Seattle.
Mr. J. B. Flett, 221 North Tacoma Ave.,
Tacoma.
Miss Helen R. Gleason, P. O. Box 195,
Seattle.
Miss Julia M. Grumbling, 613 No. Oakes,
Tacoma.
Miss Sadie E.
Oakes, Tacoma.
Mr. John Hay, 409 People’s Savings Bank
Bldg., Seattle.
Miss Anna B. Howard, 1709 Thirty-ninth
Ave., Seattle. "
Miss Winifred Johnson,
Ave., Seattle.
Miss Elsie G. Judd,
Seattle.
Mr. W. P. Kendall, 556 Nineteenth Ave.,
Seattle.
Mr. A. Gerald Leeson, Men’s Dormitory,
University of Washington, Seattle.
S. Boyer, 217
Collyer, 322 Bailey Bldg.,
807 South G St., Ta-
1414 Second Ave.,
Grumbling, 613 North
1716 Harvard
1810 Harvard Ave.,
Miss Martha E. McCormick, 116 Roy St.,
Seattle.
Mr. Edmond S. Meany, 4025 Tenth Ave.
N. E., Seattle.
Mrs. Anna Belle Meyer, 1419%
Ave. W., Seattle.
Mr. C. A. Meyer, 1419144 Second Ave. W.,
Seattle.
Mrs. Mabel P. Mixson, 1501 Alaska Bldg.,
Seattle.
Mr. F. Ormond Morrill, Sixth Ave. and
Madison St., Seattle.
Mr. L. A. Nelson, 522 New York Block,
Seattle.
Miss Lulie Nettleton, 404 West Highland
Drive, Seattle.
Miss Juliet O’Hearn, 329 Queen Anne
Ave., Seattle.
Second
Miss Ella O’Leary, 1520 Harvard Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Stella Pearce, 1783 Belmont Ave.,
Seattle.
Miss Alice Robertson, 914 Thirty-fourth
Ave., Seattle.
Mrs. Minerva F. Shaw, 1716 Harvard
Ave., Seattle.
Mr. Theodore H. Shaw,
Ave., Seattle.
Mr. George A. Spencer,
Ave. So., Seattle.
Mr. B. A. Strawbridge,
Seattle.
Mr. A. M. Thomas,
Drive, Seattle.
Mrs. A. M. Thomas,
Drive, Seattle
1716 Harvard
2512 Fourteenth
922 Seneca St.,
410 West Highland
410 West Highland
Miss Helen C. Tillman, 410 Bell St.,
Seattle.
Mr. E. B. Webster, Port Angeles, Wash.
Miss Kathryne Wilson, 909 Thirty-sixth
Ave. No., Seattle.
LIST OF LOCAL WALKS.
These walks will not be taken in the order given, but at a time that the Committee
finds most favorable.
Notice will be sent to all members in advance of the walk, giving
the number of the walk, the expense and the leader.
No. 1—Charleston and a walk of four miles to Lake Kitsap,
Bremerton; total distance, ten miles.
No. 2—Renton and Swan Lake.
No. 3—Kent and Lost Lake.
returning by way of
No. 4—Charleston and Union River at the head of Port Orchard Bay, ten miles.
No. 5—Snoqualmie and the ascent of Mount Si.
This trip will take two days, probably
Saturday and Sunday, and an easier trip will be arranged around the falls for those
who do not wish to climb the mountain.
No. 6—Interlaken Boulevard from Highteenth Avenue and Galer Street to Wash-
ington Park, across the Portage to the University grounds and through the campus to
Ravenna Park and Pontiac.
No. 7—North Bend and Cedar Lake, a two day’s trip, or,
if desired, could be ar-
ranged as three days, returning by way of Ravensdale on the Northern Pacific.
No. 8—Tacoma and American Lake, for Sunday party.
No. 9—Tacoma and Point Defiance.
No. 10—Ballard cars to Ballard Beach and north along the shore to Meadow Point,
then through the woods to the new Everett line and return.
No. 11—Around Bainbridge Island; a two day’s trip.
No. 12—Northern Pacific to Martin, just east of the Stampede tunnel, then to Lake
Kitchelos and across the Snoqualmie Pass to North Bend.
Nays.
This trip will require four
UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON
Summer session for 1907, June 24- August 2
Special attention given the seiences, geology, botany, zoology chemigry and
| physics. Atthe close of the summer school a party of professors and students will
| join the Mountaineers for a three weeks trip through the Olympic Mountains. For
additional information address the
Registrar, University of W ashington
UNIVERSITY STATION, SEATTLE, WASH.
Ladies Hunting or
Outing Skirts
Made to measure of finest imported corduroy or finest
quality superior duck. Suit consists of coat, skirt and
bloomers.
We also carry a‘fine line of men’s hunting and outing
wear. The largest and bes selected stock of fishing
tackle, guns and ammunition in Seattle. Cameras and
photo supplies.
‘ : 1024-26 2nd Ave.
ri Piper & Taft The Sporting Goods Store
Fly on the Flyer
Sinale Fare 35c. Round Trp 5Q0c.
Seattle-Tacoma Route
Four Round Trips Daily
Time Card
Leave Seattle, 6:45, 10:25 a. m.; 2:05. 5:45 p. m.
Leave Tacoma, 8:35 a. m.; 12:15, 3:55, 7:30 p. m.
Meals served a la carte
Landings. Flyer Dock, Seattle; N.P. Wharf, Tacoma
U. SEELY, Jr. Agent
Seattle Telephone Main | 76; Tacoma Telephone 211.
KODAKS
AND
Photo, Supplies
q We develop and print
for amateurs.
Frank B. Wilson
220 Pike St.
We carry
Norman & Bennet’s
Tan Boots
For mountain climbing
Mien’s and women’s size
Treen Shoe Co. 707 is!
Avenue
Waterproof Everything in
Khakl clothing and
| Clothing beddins for
mountain
climbing
C. G. Filson
Best soods, well made, at reasonable
prices; sleeping bags; outing clothing
for men and women made to order.
Globe Bik. 1011 Ist. Ave.
Seattie, Wash.
To all
mountain climbers
Who are looking for
Duxbark Clothing. We
carry a full line for la-
dies and gents at 612
2nd Ave., Alaska Bldg.
Hardy-Hall Arms Co,
TENTS
SILK, DUCK AND KHAKI
E ARE MANUFACTURERS
OF EVERYTHING IN CAN-
VAS AND CAN FIT YOU OUT
RIGHT FOR YOUR OUTING. NO
TROUBLE TO QUOTE PRICES.
PUGET SOUND
TENT & DUCK @
410 OCCIDENTAL AVE.
PHONES MAIN 219: IND. X2643
W e want
your drug trade
Closson & Kelly
. DRUGGISTS
Occidental Ave.
& Washington St.
SEATTLE
Open all night
Ant
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THE SEA OF MOUNTAINS TO THE SOUTHWEST OF ELWHA BASIN.
The basin is located in the valley at the extreme left of the photograph. Very few of these
peaks are named and so far as known they are unclimbed.
Copyright 1907 by Romans Photo Co.
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‘suTeyunout o1dutAIO OU} UI SMOpPvOU UTeJUNOU [HITNvEd 4Ssout 04} JO OO ST STULL
‘AG TIVA SLAUANO AHL IO GVAH FHL GNvV SNdWAIO LNAOW
MAY =~ hh
e LIBRARY
lhe OUNTAINEEL
BOTANICA!
GARDEN.
E. L. HAMPTON, Editor. RDEN
Application made for entry at the Seattle postoffice as mail matter of the second class.
Subscription price, One Dollar the year. Single numbers Twenty-five Cents.
VOL ol; JUNE, 1907. NO. 2.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Page
Expeditions into the Olympic Mountains. Ina M. Hanna _____-_--_--_-_______-____________ 9
Notes on the Geography of the Olympics. Henry Landes, State Geologis! _-._________________ 36
feurney: to. Mounts Olympus. 5G: . Wis iumes soso Mit - ea 2 es ee ee 4]
Giprervalions onthe Olympics... )eseer lethe ce haw iat Nee ee eh Se eS 43
Ruaentaineers -\onial) Cutincs | ay. = aoe eee een eS AL Ss ty ee Be ae eS 45
The Mountaineers’ Ascent of Mount Si. Alida J. Bigelow __.-._-__-___-_-____-___--_______ 49
iiche-Nscent of4 Micunt, ohuksans,Asahel Curtis = 505-0222 5 le eS 52
Hectatarialy\ Commentien = ste 5 Sere eras ert io eR wns oe oe ee 53
meporteorsines F-lsionian tac eens eee eke Meee Peet ooh SR pie Sac) So) Se 54
OFFICERS.
PRESIDENT____-Henry Lanpes, Professor of Geology and Mineralogy, University of Washington
MCE EME ODEN Pal 2 ee ees ee Dr. J. F. SWEENEY, Member Mazamas
SEGREMUAR Nc 2 a) kt iets tae Ha Bnei os) Dr. Cora SmitH Eaton, Member Sierra Club
DREASWIRE Riabee eam nt Wee ele Pes aS Ce ee Dr. E. F. Stevens, Member Mazamas
FeSO ERAN eer ee aS SR eA: Mary Banks, Reference Libraricn, Seattle Public Library
BOARD OF DIRECTORS.
Mary Banks Henry Lanpbes
ASAHEL Curtis W. Monte.ius Price
Cora SmitH Eaton E. F. STEVENS
E. L. Hampton J. P. Sweeney
E. WELDON YouNG
COMMITTEES.
Program Outing.
Prof. Theodore C. Frye Mr. Asahel Curtis
Miss Alida J. Bigelow Dr. Cora Smith Eaton
Miss Joe I. Kincaid Mr. W. M. Price
House Publishing.
Mrs. E. F. Stevens Mr. E. L. Hampton, Editor
Miss Anna Hubert Miss Mary Banks, Associate Editor
Miss Daisy Lane Miss Adelaide L. Pollock
29 THE MOUNTAINEER
Expeditions Into the Olympic Mountains
By INA M. HANNA
N view of the Mountaineers’ proposed trip into the Olympies this sum-
mer, interest in former explorations of the region is revived.
Lieut. O’Niell’s Expedition. In 1885 Lieut. O'Neill, of the regular
army, stationed then at Fort Townsend, was detailed by Gen. Miles to make
a trip into the country back of Port Angeles. He spent about six weeks
with a party of seven men, working southeast toward Hood’s Canal. He
reached a point about ten miles south and twelve miles west of Mt. Con-
stance, and located the snow field from which the east fork of the Elwha rises.
He writes that though the trip was one of many hardships, the beauty
of the scenery and the magnificent hunting amply repaid them.
Press Expedition. The most notable attempt to open up the region was
that made by the ‘‘Press’’ expedition in 1889-’90. An abstract from the
accounts of this trip is given further on.
Prospectors’ Trip. In June and July of 1890, following the return of
the Press expedition, a party of five prospectors started in at the mouth
of the Dosewallips. They returned by the Elwha to Port Angeles. On their
return trip they struck the Press trail.
Mr. John Conrad, who wrote of the trip for the Seattle Press of July
16, 1890, speaks of the great difficulty in getting through. He says they
found some small fertile valleys, none with more than 2,000 or 3,000 acres,
only very small patches of good timber, and no evidences of ‘*‘minerals,’’
the object of the trip. They found an abundance of bear, cougar, elk, deer,
woodehueks and grouse.
We find mention of a party organized to explore the source of the
Skokomish, cross the summit to the head of the Elwha, and then follow down
this to Port Angeles. This was projected for the summer of 1890, but we
have no account of the results.
We find also that Lieut. O’Neill in the summer of 1890 took a party
in to explore particularly the southeast and northwest corners, which were
not touched by the Press party. We have, at hand, no information as to
what was accomplished.
Capt. Barnes’ Account of Press Trip. The following is condensed from
the very interesting accounts of the Press expedition given by the leader,
Mr. James H. Christie, and by Capt. Charles A. Barnes, the topographer of
the party. As far as possible in space available, the account is given just
as published in ‘*‘The Seattle Press’’ of July 16, 1890.
Very few copies of this number of The Press are.in existence, so far
as known, but through the kindness of Prof. Meany, of the State University,
who was at that time connected with ‘‘The Seattle Press,’? we were allowed
to use one of the few copies.
Purpose. The Press expedition was fitted out by ‘‘The Seattle Press,”’
an evening newspaper, for the purpose of exploring the unknown mountain
region lying between Puget Sound and the Pacifie Ocean, and extending
from the Straits of Juan de Fuea to Lake Quiniault.
Aside from legends current among hunters and Indians nothing was
known of the geology, of the topography, of the timber and mineral re-
THE MOUNTAINEER 30
sources, nor of the possibilities for settlement. The governmeat charts con-
tained but one or two elevations of the whole range.
The idea of such an expedition originated with Gov. Ferry, and was
taken up by ‘‘The Press.’’ The party consisted of six men originally, one
of whom was obliged to leave before the end of the trip. They were all ex-
perienced in out-of-door hardships and perfectly fitted for such a trip.
Date of Trip. They left Seattle December 8, 1889, and were out six
months, returning in May. Preparations for the trip were completed at
Port Angeles, and by January 13, 1890, they were ready to make the start
up the Elwha. They went in the winter in order to be over the first ranges
and into the central valley region, reputed to be found toward the head-
waters, by spring.
By January 23 they reached the head of possible navigation and trans-
ferred their stores from the boat to the shore. They had trouble with the
boat in the rapids, but managed to get everything through without mishap
to MeDonald’s clearing. From there supphes were packed by the men or
on pack mules.
Route. They followed the Elwha on one side or the other to Lake
Mary, where the headwaters are. This little lake, about 400 yards across,
is separated from a similar one, Lake Margaret, by a rise of not more than
fifty feet. From Lake Margaret the Quiniault flows to the south.
Mt. Seattle, so named by the party, on their map, lies west and a little
north of these two lakes.
Following as they supposed, the Quiniault river, they were puzzled
for a time by a large westward bend in the river between Mt. Zindorf and
Mt. Lawson. After a westward stretch of about five miles it turns back to
the southeast until the junction of the Alexander river, where it make a
sharp bend to the southwest, going almost directly to Lake Quiniault, which
it enters at the upper end; leaving the lake again about the middle of the
south side.
The Press Blaze. The trail was carefully blazed all the way with three
blazes, one above the other. The lower one was made at the surface of
the snow, so that in following it again comparison of the depth of snow
can be made with the depth in 1890.
The Trail. The trail, in brief, runs as follows to the divide:
Port Angeles to Dr. Lull’s claim it was old. From there the route led
past Mt. Eldridge, the western spur of which they called the Devil’s Baek-
bone.
From there it runs through to Goblin Canyon. From the head of Geyser
Valley it leads down Lillian River Canyon, crosses Lillian River, leads around
Mt. Fitten to a great landslide.
Two miles below Semple Plateau it crosses to the west side. From here
they advise running nearer the river than the trail does. A good trail ean
be found around the base of the Semple Plateau. The trail leads up the
Goldie River, but Press Valley should be taken instead. It furnishes a
good road to within a mile or so of the sources of the Quiniault and
Quilliayute rivers.
From the head of the valley one ean choose between these two river
valleys. The Press trail follows to the south to Lakes Mary and Margaret
and the divide.
A few of the notable sights, aside from the grandeur of the scenery
31 THE MOUNTAINEER
every time an elevation was reached above timber, were Goblin Canyon
and signs of an old Indian village on Semple Plateau.
Goblin Gates. The so-called Goblin Gates are ledges of projecting slate
where the Elwha is crowded through a narrow portal about twelve feet
wide into a canyon with rock walls hundreds of feet high, which seems to
swallow the river down its gloomy depts.
Signs of Former Inhabitants. While exploring for a trail up Elwha
Pass the first evidences of old Indian tribes were discovered. This was
a spruce, and the blazes were evidently made when it was a sapling. The
wood and bark had almost grown over the blaze.
They coneluded from the condition of the blazes, the size and rate of
erowth of the spruce in such a loeality, that the blaze must have been made
over 200 years ago.
Not far from this tree they found an old wringing post, used by the
Indians in dressing skins. After this, while in the Elwha region, other old
trails were discovered, also other of the wringing posts.
Capt. Barnes suggests that this region would probably well repay in-
vestigation, yielding interesting traces of the old Indian tribes once living
here. It hes between Geyser Valley and the entrance of the Lilhan River.
A blaze discovered later in the vicinity of Mt. Fitten, had grown with
the tree, and was about ten feet long. When eut into, 210 rings of growth
were counted covering the edge of the blaze.
Semple Plateau lies on the west side of the Elwha and north of the
Goldie River.
Capt. Barnes describes it as a level plateau one and one-half miles long
and three-quarters of a mile wide, rectangular in form. It is covered with
a thin soil over white gravelly sand. The trees are mountain fir, spruce
and Douglas pine, all small, in marked contrast with the trees all around
the plateau, which are very large.
Upon the plateau great numbers of the trees are blazed and otherwise
injured, undoubtedly by the hand of man. All these scars are old. A eir-
cular mound, evidently artificial, was found on the plateau. There was
no fallen timber.
The conelusion from these signs and from the situation of the plateau,
three sides sloping steeply and the fourth an inaccessible mountain side,
that it was the site of an ancient Indian village. There was no water on
the plateau, but springs on all sides, just below the margin.
Avalanches. Avalanches are said to be uncommon except in the Bailey
range. The mountains, even where very steep, are heavily timbered, and
very few avalanche tracks are seen through the timber.
Geysers. Geyser Valley was so called because of noises heard there
and beheved to be geyser eruptions. The geysers were suspected of being
in the canyon below the mouth of Lillian River, but could not be certainly
located.
A second geyser, if geysers caused the noise, was heard on the Quin-
iault River between the east fork, or Crumback River, and Lake Quiniault.
Capt. Barnes describes the sounds as beginning slowly, like the cleck-
ing of a ratchet on a cog-wheel, gradually increasing in rapidity until at
the end they are too rapid to be distinguished, and ceasing abruptly at the
end of eight seconds. The interval between reports was four seconds.
As near as could be determined the intervals between times of activity was
three days.
|
_ ss
MT. MEANY FROM THE NORTHEAST.
Named in honor of Frof. E. S. Meany, by the Press party in 1890. This peak is
near camp and can be climbed easily in a single day.
MT. SEATTLE FROM ELWHA BASIN.
The pass at the head of the valley leads to the Quinault. Altitude of pass 6,400
feet; of Mt. Seattle 7,800. Mountain named by Press party in 1890,
Copyright 1907 by Romans Photo Co.
33 THE MOUNTAINEER
Glaciers. Although the snowfall was very heavy, they report that no
elaciers were found, even upon Mt. Olympus, and no streams showed glacial
origin.
Topography. The topographic map of the region prepared by Capt.
Barnes locates the principal ranges, peaks and stream valleys. The ele-
vations of some of the prominent peaks are given as follows: Mt. Olympus,
8.550 feet; Mt. Seattle, 7,700 feet; Mount Christie, 7,450 feet.
The Bailey Range forms the backbone of the Olympics, and the other
ranges are irregularly grouped about it. This range, with Mt. Seattle and
Mt. Christie, form the watershed from which the Elwha flows north, the
Quinault south, and the Quilliayute west.
Mt. Olympus is placed southwest of Geyser Valley, about midway
between the Elwha and the Quilliayute rivers. No large streams were
found flowing from it.
The Burke range divides the waters of the Elwha and its tributaries
from the waters of the Skokomish.
Quiniault Valley. Of those explored, the Quiniault is the largest and
most important. Beginning at the Alexander River, it extends to the
ocean. Above the lake it contains about 15,000 acres of tillable land, and
lies right to get the sun. Below the lake there are probably 50,000 acres of
tillable land.
....Press Valley. The largest valley on the Elwha is Press Valley. It is
thirty miles long, and from one to three miles wide, containing about 14,0U0
acres. It rises from 1,800 feet above sea level at the lower end, to 2,500 feet
elevation at the upper end. The timber is large and heavy, the soil good,
the surface level at the upper end, at the lower slightly rolling. Small
alder bottoms are numerous.
Quilliayute. The headwaters of the Quilliayute are in a deep canyon.
Between the part shown on the map and the settlements at the houth, its
character is unknown.
Geyser Valley. Geyser Valley is about four miles long and one mile
broad at the widest part. The river runs broad and deep through it, and
it is covered with large timber.
Lake Quiniault, on United States land office maps, extends nearly north
and south, instead of northeast to southwest, as located by the Press party.
The lake is shown on the west side, while the Press party map locates it
about the middle of the southern side.
Names. About fifty names were given to ranges, peaks, rivers and val-
leys.
Geology. The following concerning the geology of the Olympics is
from Capt. Barnes’ observations. He says:
‘The coast strip and foothills are basaltic formation. Upon the Elwha
this formation extends to the base of Olympus. We observed here no rock
in place other than basalt or trap. From the base of the Olympies the form-
ation changes abruptly to slate, sandstone, gravel and marl.’’
‘‘Granite in place was seen but once—on Belle River, high up on the
mountain side. The strata are tilted at angles varying from 45° to 90°,
75° and 85°. ;
being the most common angles. They are seldom found at an angle of
45°. The ‘‘strike’’ is, in most canyons, at right angles to the river’s course.
The folding is often very complex.
Being set up on edge as they are, the Elwha canyons expose them
for examination in ideal position,
THE MOUNTAINEER Bes
These vertical strata give the ranges the remarkably sharp, ragged
outline so familiar io us. Sheer precipices of from 1,000 to 2,000 feet of
nacked rock are ecnimon, and everywhere the rugged character of the sides
is beyond description.
Weathering and frost effects are noticeably absent. This, with the
extreme sharpness of the ranges, the unworn beds of the streams, the
canyons where streams have followed fissures, the’ cascades over soft tilted
slate, in fact everything about the mountains, indicates their youth.
Some coarse granite boulders, evidently glacial, are mentioned as found
in Goblin Canyon.
White quartz veins of varying thickness are abundant in places.
The ecrater-like form of many of the peaks was found in every ease
invesigated to be due only to the fantastic breaking of the vertical strata.
No Leva. [Eniire absence of lava or any other voleanic matter except
trap is one of the characteristics of the whole region explored.
Flora. As a whole, the mountains are well timbered. Hemlock, fir,
spruce, cedar and pine are the chief varieties. In the interior of the moun-
tains much cedar of large size was found at an elevation of from 3,000 to
4,000 feet. In general, fir, spruce and balsam are found on the mountain
sides below 4,000 feet. Above 4,000 feet the mountains are either bare or
the timber is the hardy, close-grained varieties of fir. In Press Valley there
is considerable white and yellow pine.
On the Elwha the timber is generally good, and would average four
to five million feet to the quarter section. The trees were medium size,
tall, straight and perfectly healthy.
On the Quiniault the timber is good as far as the Alexander River,
but is poor above that. There is almost no grass in the mountains, a little
on the lower Elwha. The ‘‘bunch-grass country’? within the Olympics
isa myth. Oregon grape and ground laurel furnish an excellent substitute
for the pasturage of pack animals. They are abundant.
Salmon berries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and = ecranber-
ries are very abundant, and in some places also the kinnikinick berries.
Fauna. As to the game, the mountains are full of elk, which are usually
quite tame. Deer are plentiful. One goat was seen by the party. Owing
to the time of year and the severity of the season, only a few grouse and
pheasants were seen. Undoubtedly they are abundant. Beaver were
ntmerous in the Quiniault, and black bear are plentiful. One track of a
cinnamon bear was seen. Cougars, wild cat and wolves are common.
The party most of the time was abundantly supplied with game, but
occasionally there would be several days when nothing was in sight.
Minerals. The severity of the weather and the depth of the snow pre-
vented much prospecting. No gold was found in the Elwha, although up-
yards of a dozen bars were washed.
Promising looking quartz was found, but without gold. Silver’ was
found in a ledge of rock, and indications of silver were often seen. Silver
was found on the upper Quiniault, but no gold. The river sand was not
prospected, however.
On both sides of the mountain oxide of iron was seen. No coal was found
upon either the Elwha or Quiniault. Galena was found in the silver rock.
No traces of copper or tin were found.
So far as prospected, silver seems to be the principal mineral of the
Olympics. The silver bearing rock found in the ledge was four feet thick,
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THE MOUNTAINEER 36
Notes on the Geography of the Olympics
By HENRY LANDES
ROM British Columbia to Lower California there rises from the sea
an almost continuous line of mountains which constitutes the coast
ranges. In general they are much lower than the next great mountain bul-
wark to the east, from which they are separated by a long north-south
trough or valley. The winding coastal ranges have different names in
different places, and the Washington segment is known as the Olympie
mountains. The Olympies extend from the Columbia river to the Siraits
of Juan de Fuea but it is only north of Gray’s Harbor that they represent
a conspicuous mountainous area. Between Columbia river and Gray’s
Harbor the mountains are characterized by low ridges which do not exeeed
3000 feet in height. The northern Olympics alone, or that large triangular
area bounded by the Pacific ocean, Strait of San Juan de Fuca, and Hood’s
canal, will be considered in this article.
With the exceptions of some portions of Alaska perhaps, the Olympie
mountains represent the least known part of the United Staies. They are
searcely known at all from the standpoint of geography or geology, and
their fauna and flora have been but httle studied. They have been pene.
trated in cer.ain directions by occasional small exploring parties and
yearly a few hunters and prospectors make their way into the mountain
wilds. The usual routes of entrance are by way of the larger valleys.
usually the Elwha, Quileene, Quiniault, or Soleduck. All the routes of
ingress are difficult because of the dense forest growth, the canyons along
the streams, and the general ruggedness of the region. When well into
the mountains the elk trails are generally followed by the explorer, and
these must serve until an increasing interest in this little known region
compels the construction of permanent roads.
From Hood’s canal and de Fuea strait the Olympies rise abruptly from
the sea, with a very narrow lowland margin. The only breaks in the solid
rocky wall are the great chasms where the sireams come from out the moun-
tain interior to join the sea. Alone the course of each stream, canyons
alternate with wide valleys, according as the rocks vary from those highly
resistant to erosion to those which are worn away wiih ease. Between the
major valleys stand the high ridges whieh mark the stream divides. Cap-
ping the ridges are occasional lofty sentinels, such as Constance and The
Brothers, usually in the form of great needles and spires and giving a
marked sierra effect. When the interior of the mountains is gained, fol-
lowing up one of the larger valleys, there seems to be a very marked uni-
formity in the heights of the ridges or divides, indicating a general plateau
character. In other words there are large numbers of high ridges and
mountain peaks of heights approximately the same, giving in an extended
panorama a rather even sky-line. It may be tentatively suggested that the
Olympies represcnt a region once worn down nearly to a base level, and
then uplifted to a height of about 8000 feet above the sea and subsequently
eroded by streams of water and ice to their present rugged outlines. The
higher peaks, sueh as Olympus, represent more resistant masses which in
the former period of erosion did not reach a true base level. The forces of
upheaval, it may be said, prepared a mighty block of rock, out of which
37 THE MOUNTAINEER
ihe forces of nature, represented by the weathering elements, running
water and elaciers, have chiseled the mountains as we now know them.
Very little is now known regarding the nature of the rock formations
in the Olympies. Along the ocean shores on the west and north coarse sed-
imentary rocks are most common. Sandstones and conglomerates predom-
inate, with some shales, but no limestones. The rocks are all folded and
faulted and show the work of mountain making forces on a grand seale.
In some places seams of coal occur among sediments of the Eocene time
showing the existence at that age of coal making swamps. Along the
Hood’s canal side of the Olympics are many outcrops of igneous rocks,
indicating that flows of lava once came from out the mountains. In some
places small bits of native copper are seattered through the lava and this
discovery has been followed by extensive prospecting for commercial de-
posits of the copper-bearing rock. The few samples of rock which have
been brought out from the heart of the mountains are largely of slate and
schist types, indicating that metamorphic rocks prevail. From analogy
with the northern Cascades, and with the coast mountains both north and
south, a great series of metamorphic rocks with various intrusives would
be the type of formation most expected. Prospectors have reported the
occurrence of granite boulders in some of the stream beds and it is very
likely that this formation occurs at several points. <A large variety of
metallie minerals have been found by prospectors in the Olympies, but no
paying mines have been developed.
The amount of rainfall in the Olympies is notably high. This is to be
expected from the fact that the mountains stand immediately facing a
ereat body of water directly in the path of the ocean winds. The air com-
ing from the ocean is heavily laden with moisture; the saturation point is
reached the moment the shore is met, and hence the heaviest rainfall is
along the coast. At Neah bay the usual rainfai! is about 100 inches yearly ;
farther south at Clearwater it is 120 inches yearly; while at a new estab-
lished station on Quimiault lake it is 185 inches yearly. The rain oceurs
mostly in the winter season, the months of the year with minimum rain-
fall being July and August. In aseending the mountains from the west or
ocean side the rainfall continues very heavy until a height of about 4000
feet is attained when it begins to decrease. At this point also the rain gives
way largely to snow so that the higher Olympies are clothed each winter
with a deep mantle of snow. Upon the highest of the mountain masses the
snow fields merge into glaciers, indicating that the summer sun is not equal
to the task of wholly removing the winter’s snow. On the eastern slope
of the Olympies the precipitation rapidly decreases until it amounts to
about 25 inches only when the sea-level is reached, as at Port Townsend.
The difference in rainfall between Clearwater at the western foot of the
mountains, and Port Townsend at the eastern foot, is a classic example of
the contrast in precipitation afforded by the windward and the leeward
side of highlands which lie in the paths of moisture laden winds.
The forests of the Olympies are among the best to be found along the
Pacific coast. The heavy rainfall contributes not only to a great tree growth
but leads to an unusual development of shrubs and the smaller plants een-
erally. From sea level to a height of about 2000 feet the plant growth has
produced a tangled jungle which is almost wholly impenetrable except
where trails have been made. In the heart of the mountains there are con-
THE MOUNTAINEER 38
siderable areas without timber where the low temperature and heavy snow-
falls have prevented tree growth. Above timber line there are many small
meadows and upland pasture is afforded. It has been estimated that the
forests of the Olympies will yield on an average not less than 24,000 board
feet of lumber per acre. The commercial trees in order of yield from the
standpoint of quantity are hemlock, red fir, silver fir, cedar and spruce.
Since the maximum rainfall of the Olympics is on the western slope
it is into the Pacifie ocean directly that the largest rivers flow. The prin-
cipal streams are the Soledueck, Hoh, Queets, and the Quiniault. The chief
rivers on the north are the Elwha and Dungeness, which empty into the
Strait of Fuca. Into Hood’s eanal flow the Quilcene, Dosewallips, and
Skokomish. About Mount Olympus the divides are very sharp and within
a small radius are the headwaters of several of the master streams of the
mountains. While the heads of all the large streams are torrential and
abound in caseades and waierfalls, the lower courses of most have a
velocity not so great but what they are navigated by Indians in eanoes.
Into the mouths of some of the streams the tide enters from the sea, indi-
cating a submergence of the coast in recent times. The large number of
independent streams along the northern slopes of the Olympics have evi-
dently all been tributaries of the large westward flowing river which oceu-
pied the basin of Juan de Fuea strait previous to the general subsidence
which profoundly affected our coasiline and which brought into existence
Vancouver and the numerous neighboring islands.
The difficulty of traveling through the Olympies is the chief reason
why they are not visited by more people. Railway building has just begun
upon the outskirts of the mountains, but steam roads must not be expected
to ever penetrate them very far. Through the western foothills some wagon
roads have been constructed and a state road has been surveyed from Mon-
vesano northward to the Strait. Trails must be depended upon by all who
would go far into the mountains, and these are always more or less out of
repair because no systematic work is done upon them. It is to be hoped that
as a_result of the expedition of the Mountaineers into the Olympies that
one or more good trails leading into the heart of the mountains may be
constructed and kept in good condition for future visitors.
The Olympie mountains attracted the attention of all the early ex-
plorers to our coast and it was Vancouver who applied the name Mount
Olympus to the crowning peak. In the mythology of Greece Olympus was
the home of Zeus and the other gods, who lived in a palace upon the sum-
mit. Upon and about our own Olympus the Mountaineers expect to find
gods the equal of those of olden times. They will be the gods of ecomrad.
ship, of good health, of the love of mountains, and of peace of mind and
soul.
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41 THE MOUNTAINEER
Journey To Mount Olympus
By G. W. HUMES, Port Angeles
a trip to Mt. Olympus, it being our intention to seale this little-known
but much-talked of peak.
Leaving ‘‘Chicago Camp,’’ ten miles below the source of the Elwha,
one morning, we passed through the upper Elwha Basin, where the river has
three forks, and continued along the most westerly of these, following the
same to its extreme source in the Elwha-Queets ice-field, some four miles
southeastward of Mt. Olympus. This part of the route being strewn with
slippery boulders of all sizes presented difficult travelling, while the young
Elwaha plunged and foamed among them in its mad race to the valley proper.
The stream would scarcely average more than ten feet in width, but we
had to cross and re-cross continually jumping from rock to rock or fording
the icy torrent, closely hemmed in by steep slopes or canon-walls. After
about two miles of this kind of work we came to the foot of the Elwha glacier
which bridged the stream and afforded very good travelling with a few ex-
ceptions, where the ice had worn away and broken in, necessitating our re-
turn to the stream-bed for a short time. At one place the ice bridge reaches
a thickness of perhaps 150 feet, where numerous avalanches have brought
thousands of tons of snow from a side canon and where now may be seen a
series of waterfalls, very high but not of large volume, reminding one of
Bridal Veil falls near the Columbia in Northern Oregon.
At intervals above this occur several pot-holes or ‘‘wells’’—shafts in
the clear, greenish blue ice—as round as if bored with a huge auger, while,
at the bottom, 50 or 60 feet below, may be seen the foaming, roaring torrent,
rushing along with awe-inspiring fury. From the rim of one of these ‘‘ wells,”’
one unconsciously shrinks back after a glance into its noisy depths, while the
thought of falling in is sufficient to make the average person ‘‘erawl.’’ These
‘“wells’’ are from six to fifteen feet in diameter.
After another mile of travel along this ice bridge, up a rather steep slope,
we came to the Elwha-Queets divide, and had our first near view of Mt. Olym-
pus a few miles to the south westward. Its eastern slope is for the most part
oecupied by the Queets glacier—a huge mass of ice from the face of which
huge blocks were breaking at intervals, and falling with a great crash into
the canon below.
It being late afternoon, we sought a camping place, and by going about a
mile down the Queets, found a favorable spot facing a large rock in the
sparsely-timbered park region. While arranging a bed of fi boughs and col-
leeting wood for the camp fire, we sighted two very large black bears about
a mule to the southward, and with the aid of a field glass made out that they
were “‘rustlng’’ their supper from blueberries, which literally covered the
ground hereabouts, and were deliciously sweet.
Next morning we were up with the sun, and took steps to assault the
grand peak in the shade of which we had camped. Returning to the main
divide we proceeded westerly along the crest of a sharp, rocky ridge until we
could slide down on to the great Hoh ice-field, at least a square mile in extent.
This we crossed entire, having to continually turn aside for crevasses, some
D URING the latter part of August, 1905, with two companions, I made
‘
THE MOUNTAINEER 42
of which were 20 feet wide and 60 to 100 feet deep. At the foot of this
glacier, great sections of ice were tumbling into the Hoh, making the moun-
tains echo with the almost continual rumbling. Climbing a high-rocky spur
at the south side of this ice-field, our progress was interrupted by a sheer
cliff, at the foot of which spread out another ice field, also flowing into the
Hoh. The summit of Mt. Olympus now appeared scarcely a mile away, its
triple crown glistening in the bright sunlight. Up to this time (11:30 a. m.)
the day had been an ideal one for mountaineering, but now a dense fog was
observed beating up from the ocean side of the peak, which threatened to soon
envelope everything; therefore we thought it advisabl to retreat, leaving fur-
thr exploration for a more favorable time.
In returning to our camp of the previous night, we discovered a short-
eut, by following the tracks of a bear in the snow through a narrow pass,
which saved about two miles of difficult going. During the evening, I made a
side-trip to the southward by way of exploring the adjacent park country.
There were acres and acres of blue berries on which the bears were feeding,
their signs being everywhere present. During this two-hour trip I also saw
six or seven deer, which seemed to have very little fear of man, not having, I
suppose, ever seen one before.
From the most southerly point reache , I judged the country favorable
for an ascent of the peak from that quarter; however, further prospecting
would be necessary to determine this, as I merely reached the base of the
mountain in that direction.
During the following night, a cold rain set in, and being unprepared for
severe weather, we set out at daybreak to retrace our steps down the long
glacier. Coming to the rough stream bed, we turned to the left and kept
along the steep hillside in the timber, which we decided had many advantages
over the canon route that we chose going up. By strenuous travelling, we
reached ‘‘Chicago Camp,’’ our headquarters, in about four hours.
43 THE MOUNTAINEER
Observations On the Olympics
By J. B. FLETT, Tacoma
| N the northwest corner of our state he a nearly circular mass of rugged
mountains. Their serrated and jagged forms have defied explorations.
True, several parties have invaded the more accessible parts, but the in-
terior is a terra incognita. The rivers have cut deep channels often to
nearly sea-level.
The mountains often form on their sides talus slopes from base to
summit. In climbing many of these peaks the loose stones will start down-
ward, giving the climber a free ride. He has to step hvely so as not to
eet his feet caught between the loose stones.
It does not seem possible that the northern ice sheet ever passed over
these mountains. The writer belheves that these mountains were raised
after the glacial period, but at a time when the chmate was still quite cold,
and that local glaciers from the summits of these peaks moved down the
river valleys for some distance, making their upper courses U shaped. The
softness of the rocks makes erosion go forward with great rapidity. These
mountains lack the granitic formation so common in the same latitude in
the Caseades, hence the time necessary to cut deep river valleys is short.
Everything goes to show that these mountains are young.
The precipitation is greater in these mountains than that of any other
part of the state. There is every reason to beheve that the same conditions
existed during the geological periods. This fact togeiher with the softness
of the strata would account for eroding deep river channels in a compara-
tively short period of time. We will leave the geology of these mountains
to the geologists and hasten to give a brief account of the plants in the
region of Mt. Constance and along the Quilecene and Dungeness rivers.
There is nothing more beautiful than the large areas covered with
Rhododendron Californicum which grows to the highest perfection about
Hood’s canal and extends quite a distance up the mountain slopes. Grow-
ing with it are many plants characteristic of low altitude, such as salal,
psoralea, alder, willows and madrone. The common forest trees extend
to about 2500 feet, when the forest becomes mixed with the lovely fir, the
noble fir and the white pine. The underbrush is very dense along the lower
course of the rivers. The Devil’s walking stick is by far the most trouble-
some. These disappear in the higher altitudes and the forest is covered with
the little bramble (Rubus pedalus) and other small plants found in corre-
sponding altitudes in the Cascades. The ferns are also abundant growing
very tall and beautiful. The sword fern, the maiden hair and the deer fern
are the most conspicuous of the family. There are many graceful radiate
tufts of the lady fern (Athyrium cyclosorum) growing in rich moist places.
At an altitude of about 4500 feet the plants above mentioned give place to
other forms much smaller. The forest becomes more open and distinetly
alpine. The principal trees are the Alaska cedar, the alpine hemlock, the
alpine fir and on the very summit are a few serub trees of the black pine.
The deciduous trees in the lower forest are covered with a dense growth
of mosses, liverworts and the licorice fern (Polypodium falcalum). This
gives the forest a semi-tropical appearance. As we approach the alpine
trees this green appearance gives place to the dull gray forms of lichens.
THE MOUNTAINEER 44
Some of these hang down and others form crusts on the trees. We find
the irees decorated from sea-level to the summit. Some trees have long
streamers waving in the wind. The forms of Usnea are the most common
of these pendant forms.
As we begin to emerge from the forest region into the parks or meadows
we find many herbaceous plants. Perhaps the largest and most characteristic
is the Elk Grass (Xerophyllum tenax). This plant is called Squaw grass
beeause it is used by the Indians in making baskets. Mountain Lily is
another popular name for it. The Sitka valerian and the Mountain dock
are always pioneers on the outpost of the open grassy slopes. There are
four or more different kinds of hueckleberry bushes loaded with fruit in the
proper season. The rosy spiraea is quite common along the rills and with it
erow several alpine willows. Among the roots of these shrubs grow
Mimulus aplinus and Mimulus Lewisii, popularly known as monkey flowers.
Both of these form dense mats—the former of small yellow flowers and the
latter of large rose-colored blossoms. The white and yellow deertongues
erow among the tall, waiving grass. Two species of Arnica and several
mountain dandelicns add more yellow to the scene while several species of
Asters give a coloring of purple. Under the cliffs are iwo species of blue
bells. The round leaved one, so common on the prairies, is equally well at
home at an altitude of nearly 6000 feet. Several members of the lily family
erow here together with three or four composite flowers, one of which
proved to be new to science and was named from my collection. Near by
on a stony slope was a dense mass of a pretty little union also new to science,
while on the very highest peaks was a large purple violet also waiting to be
christened. Thus were three new plants found near together and neither
so far as I know has been found outside of the Olympics. There were three
ferns growing on these peaks, namely the lace fern (Cheilanthes gracillina),.
(Polypodium hesperimum) and (Polystichum Jonchites). These are strictly
alpine ferts and are not secn about Puget Sound. There were severa!
painted cups or Indian pinks in this region. Some of these were yellow,
some red and others purple. The red, white end yellow heathers were also
abundant. The most attractive of all, perhaps, was the purple larkspur
(Delphinium bicolor). There were several members of the mustard family
nearly all of which were small. The pea family was well represented both
in number and beauty of coloring.
I. would be out of place for me in a paper of this kind to name all the
plants secn in the region referred to. I have indieated enly those which ]
think are the most conspicuous and which would be observed by tourists.
There is a great similarity between the flora here and that in the Cascades.
The Olympie mcuntains seem to have fewer species common to the eastern
states then co the Caseadcs. The Caseades have more common to the Arctic
regiors. The latter fact is just what might be expected because of the
isolation of the Olympics. There is not the opportunity for north and
south migration in these that there is in the Cascades. Henee the new and
rare species of the Olympics belong more to the ordinary genera.
There is perhaps no other region in the United States that can equal the
Olympics for hunting and fishing. The streams and small lakes are well
supplied with trout. The large animals are fairly abundant in the interior
of these mountains. Bears and cougars are often seen prowling along the
well beaten trails.
45 THE MOUNTAINEER
The Mountaineers’ Annual Outing, 1907
Announcement of Final Plans for the Olympic Expedition
N the heart of the Olympics!
Such will be the Mountaineer’s camp in
Elwha basin at the head of Elwha river.
Four streams unite here and start the main
stream that flows sixty miles to the straits.
Its valley thus affords a magnificent high-
way into the center of the range.
The mountains at the head of the valley
nearly encirele the basin, leaving only a
break to the east, where the river circles
around Mt. Dana.
Second only to Mt. Olympus, among the
Olympics, these mountains stand 4,000 feet
above the camp, itself 3,300 feet, and their
peaks are clad in snow and ice. From the
mountains directly above camp the panorama
of mountains stretches away on all sides in
countless hundreds of peaks.
In the distance, to the northward, is the
summit of Mt. Angeles, which is the first of
the range to be seen to the east of the Elwnha
as one leaves Port Angeles. Nearer and to
the left are the snow elad ridges that divide
Boulder, Cat, Long and Goldie rivers, while winding away to the southwest
and south is the long, dark valley of the Elwha. To the eastward is the
great wall of the coast range which from the Sound hides all the rest of
the range and creates the idea that the Olympics is a long, narrow ridge.
Due east is the summit of Constance, seemingly low, compared to the sea
of peaks which rise south of the Elwha and at the head of the Queets and
Quinault. Direcily south is the crag of Mt. Meany with Mt. Seattle at its
left. To the right of Mt. Meany the Queets valley cuts a dark channe!
southeast toward the Pacific. Beyond the Queets and a little north is the
massive bulk of Olympus itself. The remnant of a onee great plateau, it
is separated from the main range by the valleys of the Queets and Hoh
rivers, the first in a valley 5,000 feet deep and the second one 7,000 feet.
Its only connection with the other peaks is the ridge that leads to the north-
east which forms the divide for the Elwha, Queets and Hoh rivers. The
Elwha does not reach Olympus, being cut off by the range forming Mt.
Queets and Mt. Meany.
From the main plateau a number of pinnacles rise above the field of
ice and snow, but one near the center appears considerably higher than
the others and this will probably prove to be the summit when we reach
the main mountain. The temporary camp for the climb will be at some
point along this ridge and the ascent made on either the Queets or Hoh
side of the ridge.
The committee did not find it practicable to attempt the ascent of Mt.
Olympus on the preliminary trip, because it was impossible to be away
THE MOUNTAINEER 46
from the pack horses longer than twelve hours. It was not possible to
climb the mountain in that time over the soft snows that covered the range.
The ascent did not appear to be very difficult and can undoubtedly be made
by all who wish to do so. The beautiful meadows east of the mountain at
the head of the Queets were covered with snow, but ridges exposed to the
warmth of the sun gave promise of the wealth of flowers that would be
found later on all the mountain slopes.
This group of mountains, the highest part of the Olympies, is little
known, more because it has been inaccessible than because of the real
difficulties of traveling through it. The only trails io the upper Elwha
have been the elk trails and the few who knew their way among the laby-
rinth of these to the headwaters did not wish others to share their know!}-
edge, so no irails were blazed. A few hours or days at most, and the ealk
marks of their horses shoes were stamped out by other bands of elk and
the trail lost again.
A slide and some fallen timber blocked even this trail and the only
way of reaching the upper Elwha was a trail over the high ridge between
Long and Goldie rivers. This crossed the divide at 5,900 feet and the s:eep
grades make it impossible to pack supphes enough to accommodate a party
as large as the Mountaineers. Port Angeles came to our aid and opened a
trail for ten miles into Press valley and a new one for six miles at the head
of the valley into Elwha basin. But for this work it wonld have been im-
possible for our club to have reached Mt. Olympus and because of it a
permanent way will have been opened into this region, one of the most
beautiful in the state.
Comparisons of mountains are impossible, but not one of the camping
spots has afforded so many beautiful spots for side trips. There are four
peaks that can be climbed in a single day from camp, and from the summit
of each the view is magnificent. Rugged mountains are all around one,
not distant and dwarfed as they are from the summit ef the great volcanoes.
FINAL PLANS.
The first division will leave Seattle Wednesday morning, July 24th, at
7:30 taking a lunch to cat on the steamer. They will reach Port Angeles
about 1:30, where there will be stages to accommodate all who do not wish
to walk to MeDonald. This stage fare will be $1.00 each and those who
wish to be accommodated should notify the secretary at onee, or when
making applheation to go on outing. The change in boat schedule makes
berths and meals on the boat unnecessary, and there will be no other
expenses on the trip in. The Outing Committee will begin furnishing meals
at MeDonald. The distance from Port Angeles to MeDonald jis {en miles
and the walking good, so many will undoubtedly prefer to walk.
The first day’s tramp on the trail will be from MeDonald to Geyser
Valley, a distance of eleven miles. The trail is through timber the entire
distance and is one of the features of the trip. Springs break out among
the rocks and for miles there is a mass of beautiful ferns. Groups of frail
maiden hair ferns stand three feet high and they can be seen clinging
among erevices in the rocks high up above the trail.
The second camp of the party will be at Geyser Valley and members
of the party will have the entire day to walk to this camp and will have
only their lunch to carry. This lunch will be issued to them after breakfast
47 THE MOUNTAINEER
at McDonald. The pack train will accompany the party and each member
will be required to pack his own belongings ready to go on the horses and
deliver them to the packers. Beyond this he will have no care of his per-
sonal effeets, as they will be delivered at the next camp early enough to
enable all to make camp comfortable for the night.
The third camp will be at Elkhorn Flat between the Lillian and the
Lost rivers. The fourth near the mouth of the Godkin and the fifth, the
main camp, at Elwha basin.
The trail for the greater part of the distance follows the Elwha Valley
through a heavy growth of timber. At some points it is necessary to leave
the valley to avoid small canyons or io eross one of the tributaries, but
these rises are never more than a few hundred feet.
Beyond the Hayes there are no burns at all. The timber, for the most
part hemlock and white fir, stands in one great, unscathed forest, with
such a canopy overhead that the sun can scarcely penetrate and under-
erowth languishes. This dense growth extends up the valley until the
basin is reached, where the growth changes to Alpine within a hundred feet,
and one steps across a branch of the Elwha into a mountain meadow sur-
rounded by high mountains.
The second division will leave Seattle Saturday, Aug. 3rd, in charge
of Prof. Henry Landes and will follow the same schedule as the first
division.
It has been found necessary to make the following additions and
changes in rules and regulations for the outing.
Only 25 pounds of dunnage can be taken with the party, the balance
must be delivered to the committee, on July 5th, at the City dock. Two
members can arrange to pack their bedding together in one dunnage bag
for the trip and ean send their other effects in another dunnage bag. This
will relieve them of caring for their entire dunnage on the trail and has
been found necessary.
Everyone must provide calks enough to reset their shoes at least twice
while on the outing. Use No. 7 for the heels and No. 5 for the soles. It
will be necessary to have shoes well nailed with cone-headed Hungarian or
hob-nails, and these should be in the ball of the foot and extend back
nearly to the heel.
The committee requests that no fire arms be carried. There is no
game that ean be killed at this season and the promiscuous use of fire arms
during the outing eannot help but be a menace to other members of the
party. Also when bands of elk are sighted, as they so frequently were on
the preliminary trip, the temptation to try just one shot would be very
great. Should a member of our party wound or kill one of these magnifi-
cent animals, in defiance of the U. S. laws, it could be nothing but a dis-
erace to the elub.
All women of the party who expect to go on side trips or climb any of
the peaks, must be prepared to wear bloomers or better still knickerbockers,
as on all these trips no skirts will be allowed.
Final payment of outing deposit should be sent to the secretary at the
earliest convenience and must be in before July 20th.
PENS ae eee Oe MOUNT SEATTLE, ALTITUDE 7,800 FEET.
GODKIN. A
: F : ; Named by Press party in 1890.
Mt. Dana in the distance. The third camp will Copyright 1907 by Romans Fhoto Co
be located near this point.
49 THE MOUNTAINEER
From the summit of the range can be seen an excellent view of the
surrounding country. On the north Port Townsend appeared near at hand,
while northwest could be seen the Straits of Juan de Fuca and Vancouver
Island with its mountain peaks towering as far as the eye could see. To
the east Puget Sound meandered like a broad river until it became lost
among the islands toward Olympia. Beyond it in plain sight were Everett,
Seattle and Tacoma with the snow covered peaks of ihe Cascades for a
background. To the west lay range after range of mountains with their
bases resting upon a plateau.
The Mountaineers’ Ascent of Mount Si.
By ALIDA J. BIGELOW
N May the tenth a party of twenty-seven left Seattle for the club’s
first mountain conquest. Everyone was ready with true mountaineer
spirit. No seats in the car were attainable and so the baggage car
was given us for the trip. This only made it a greater lark and those who
haven’t traveled widely in such ears don’t know what fun it is. The rain
on the way made the woodsy smell only the sweeter and upon arriving in
Snoqualmie several of the most venturesome still cried io sleep out. How-
ever, the women of the party went to the hotels and the men rested on the
soft floor of a vacant house offered as our headquarters, during the stay.
Saturday morning we were all assembled from the four corners of Sno-
qualmie, by a melodious ‘‘Chinese’’ gong, consisting of a circular saw hung
on a wire. That camp in the yard of the headquarters was our home for
the two days spent in the village. There was abundant supply of kindling
wood, right at hand, boxes for tables and chairs, and a well of fine water.
Really a fashionable camp we all agreed.
The first day was spent in visiting the falls, with one or two side trips
taken by the followers of Isaac Walton. Everyone who had not seen Sno-
qualmie Falls before was greatly surprised at their beauty. The trail
through the woods, through the dense shadows, suddenly ending at the
verge of the cliff over which the waters dash two hundred sixty-eight feet
is enough to quicken anyone’s pulse. Several followed the trail to the base
of the cliff and had a little experience in rock scrambling, which came in
good play the following trip. No matter where you view the falls they are
imposing and the fact that they give away so much of their power, still
retaining such beauty makes one appreciate the foamy, tumbling mass the
more.
In the evening a huge campfire cracked and sissed on the river bank
down the hill from camp. Dr. Peek and Dr. Eaton were masters of cere-
monies and their evening program was certainly a success. Each member
of the party contributed a number and when the second party came from
the train they were met by flaming torches and lusty yells of welcome,
which echoed and re-echoed down the valley. After gathering around
again and listening to Professor Landes’ plans for the morning trip, the
camp fire was abandoned and sleeping-bags sought.
The next morning almost before the first Snoqualmie cock erew, the
line-up for Mount Si was ready. Some of the party had to be left behind
for which everyone was heartily sorry. Professor Landes was in charge of
THE MOUNTAINEER 50
the line with Mr. Boyer, Mr. Blake and Mr. Nelson as captains of Com-
panies ‘‘A,’’ ‘‘B’’ and ‘‘C,’’ Mr. Nye of Snoqualmie acted as guide and
Mr. Curtis and Mr. Price as advance guards. The party numbered thirty
when it started at 5:30. Of this number twenty-four reached the summit.
The first hour of the trip was along the river among the maples and
ferns, Mount Si ever looming before us, the pinnacles hidden in a grey,
lowering cloud mass. Afterwards the party came out on that almost un-
ending rock slope with which ‘‘Old Si’’ has surrounded its base, during
the centuries. Here a cache was made of all unnecessary packs and three
of the party left the main line. Our trail led out over the huge slabs and
boulders. Ever upward we climbed looking for the pinnacles that were
visible only at times, between the clouds. Then reaching the cloud zone,
ail distance was shut off and with it the trail. Reaching the base of an
impassible cliff the party waited for the clouds to clear, while the scouts
hunted for the trail. In a short time the clouds parted and we were called
to the trail, farther down the slope. Everyone had a good supply of second
wind when that was found for the mountain might not be a feather in our
eaps that night, unless speed was made.
At ten, the first general halt was called for luncheon. Two more de-
cided the mountain was too high and when the line started on they were
Jeft with a cheery bonfire to comfort them. Our trail led ever upward not
wasting time in winding around the mountain flank, but growing steeper
and steeper. Now and then a ery of ‘‘look out below’? and a rock loosened
by the forward companies would fly by. Fortunately the sky was overcast
that day. At times as the goal seemed almost impossible, the cheery words
of comrades spurred us on, until at last we came to the end, of the tatus
slope and to the narrow chimney or rift through one of the pinnacles, and
on up to the summit, reaching it at one ten. We were greeted here by a
huge bonfire which Mr. Price and Mr. Curtis had ready for us, and though
everyone was hungry and weary, the whole party, inspired by the actual
summit, were ready with yells of victory and with energy to enjoy a snow-
ball fight in the adjacent field. Then to the dinner in our meadow of princess
pines and kinnikinnick with the cloud bank beneaih us and here and there
an island hill-top or a shimmering band of river showing through the parted
cloud masses.
Our time being limited we remained on the summit only for a short
time and started on the tedious down -hill trail at two. That talus slope
will long remain in our minds. It seemed endless as we carefully picked our
way to avoid sliding rocks. On the downward trip we were rewarded with
a grand view of the country to the west. The Sound shown as a line of glim-
mering silver and the valley winding in and out on its sea-ward journey was
worth all the toil of the morning.
When at last we reached the field at the mountain base, some had al-
most forgotten how to walk on the level, but as the party came into camp,
radiant with its conquest everyone was ready to cheer for Mount Si and
ready also to partake of the splendid dinner all prepared, thanks to the
home party.
The home coming was interesting especially to those of scholarly tend-
encies, who planned to reach Seattle that night. But, alas, for plans of
mice and men! We will long remember the ride through the dense black
forest. This party managed to reach Seattle at 7:30 Monday morning and
51 THE MOUNTAINEER
the main party, at 10, all sunburned, triumphant and loyal to Mount Si or
‘*Mount Sigh’’ as some now wish to eall it.
MOUNT SI PARTY.
*Prof. Henry Landes, leader; *Mr. Robert Nye, of Snoqualmie, guide.
Advance guard—*Mr. Asahel Curtis, *Mr. W. Montelus Price.
Company ‘‘A’’—Mr. Boyer, captain; Mrs. Epler, Mr. Epler, *Miss Anna
Howard, *Mr. Skeel, *Miss Nettleton, *Mr. Chalmers, Miss Brayton and
*Mr. Johnston.
Company ‘‘B’’—*Mr. Blake, captain; *Miss Nellie Johnson, *Mr. Chal-
mers, *Miss Bigelow, *Miss Hubert, *Mr. Howard, *Miss Grace Howard,
Dr. Sweeney and *Mr. Morrill.
Company ‘‘C’’—*Mr. Nelson, captain; *Mrs. Curtis, *Miss Leckenby,
*Mr. Epler, Mrs. Mixson, *Mr. E. H. Wells, *Miss Winnifred Johnson, *Mr.
W. H. Wright and *Mr. Best.
Those marked * reached the summit.
MT. SHUKSAN.
Copyright 1907 by Romans Photo Co,
THE MOUNTAINEER O2
The First Ascent of Mount Shuksan
By ASAHEL CURTIS
OUNT SHUKSAN, situated in the northern part of Washington, about
sixteen miles northeast of Mount Baker, was, so far as we could
learn, never climbed until our ascent made in August, 1906.
The mountain is the highest point left of the primary upheaval and is
a beautiful mass of igneous rock with cascade glaciers flowing outward on
all sides, except the north, from a central snow field. On the northern side
of this, and a thousand feet above the snow, rises a great black pinnacle,
forming the main summit.
The ascent was attempted first on August Ist by J. A. Lee, Rodney
Glisan. E. G. Grinrod, W. M. Price and myself. We followed the ridge that
leads to the mountain from the northwest until we were almost directly
under the main pinnacle, but were compelled to turn back by an approach-
ing storm, and the lateness of the hour.
Two days later Mr. Price and I aitempted the ascent once more,
going this time to the south and elimbing along the face of the mountain
until we came out on top of the main shoulder to the southwest, at an
altitude of about 6500 feet, where we spent the night. By means of a
rude brush shelter we were able to keep warm although we had no blankets.
On the following morning we continued up the ridge to the snow
plateau above the lower pinnacles finding still, to the north, the black mass
of the summit pile. The ascent of this rock pile was a rather difficult piece
of rock-work that required over two hours.
On the summit we could find no trace of a previous ascent. No rocks
had been disturbed, except where the lightning had struck them, and no
record had been left. We left a record of the ascent in a glass jar under
the cairn that we built, claiming the ascent in honor of the Sierra and
Mazama Clubs of which we were members.
The view from the summit should be particularly fine but at this time
was hidden by the smoke of forest fires and we could just make out the
summit of Mount Baker and a few of the mountains in the range to the
north.
53 THE MOUNTAINEER
Editorial Comment
siderable attention, as being the first attempt of any mountain-climbing club
to seale this peak. Several well-known szientists have already asked to join
the party, in order to take advantage of the opportunity which the trip offers for ex-
ploration and research in a practically untouched field.
* * *
T HE proposed ascent of Mount Olympus by The Mountaineers is attracting con-
By some inexplicable oversight the “Contents” page and illustrations of the March
number of The Mountaineer were not sent to the proof-reader, with the result that
several serious errors crept in without detection, much to the mortification of the
Publishing Committee.
* * *
The associate editor wishes to absolve the editor of The Mountaineer of any
responsibility for this number, including the editorials, as it was agreed that if the
editor would secure the advertisements necessary to finance the undertaking, the
associate editor would do the rest.
* * *
The Washington branch of the Audubon Society, the first steps toward the
organization of which were taken at a ‘‘ Mountaineers’” meeting, is now well
started, with the following officers:
Officers.
W. Leon Dawson, President.
Mrs. Stephen E. Thayer, First Vice-President.
J. F. Illingworth, Second Vice President.
Clinton T. Cook, Treasurer.
H. Rief, Secretary.
Mir 15.0 amis:
* * *
As an appendix to the article by Miss Ina M. Hanna in this number, it might be
of interest to give a brief description of the personnel of the Press Party. Of the
seven men in the original party, James Hellbal Christie, the leader, was a Scotchman,
born in Murrayville, Scotland, in 1854, and had spent many years prospecting and
hunting in the mountains. Captain Charles Adams Barnes, the historian and topog-
rapher of the party, was born in Illinois in 1859. He was appointed cadet in the U. S.
revenue marine in 1879, was commissioned a lieutenant in 1883. In 1887 he resigned
to enter business, going first to California and later moving to Seattle. Harry Boyle
Runnals, M. D., was to have been the photographer and collector of the fauna of the
region, but failed to accompany the party. John Henry Crumback was born in Ontario,
Canada, in 1856, came West and was in the Rich rebellion under Gen. T. B. Strange.
John Williams Simms was born in Essex, England, in 1851. In 1870 joined
the British army, in which he served six years. In 1881 went to the Boer war in
South Africa, serving under Sir Garnet Wolsey; came to America in 1886. Christopher
O’Connell Hayes, great-grandson of the famous Irish patriot, Daniel O’Connell, was
the youngest member of the party, being twenty-two years of age at that time.
* * *
The Club continues to grow at an unexpected rate. Its membership list now in-
cludes residents of Banff, Alberta, Canada; Los Angeles, Pasadena and Berkeley, Cal-
ifornia; Minneapolis, Minnesota; Portland, Oregon; North Yakima, Aberdeen, Castle
Rock, Davenport, Port Angeles, Tacoma, Walla Walla and Seattle in Washington, its
members representing almost every trade and profession, that of teaching being in
the lead at present, including eleven members of the faculty of the University of
Washington. It now looks as if the second party to start on the annual outing will be
made up almost entirely of professors of this and other universities.
eee
If all authors and editors who are members of The Mountaineers would follow
the example of Mr. Sholes and present first editions of their books to the club’s library,
it would be able to boast books on history, geography, geology, ornithology, botany,
entomology, poetry, travel and description, and possibly other subjects.
THE MOUNTAINEER d4
Report of the Historian
MARY BANKS
asm of the Mountaineers for outings and other activities. that the Historian
can attempt little more than the merest mention of each, although the tempta-
tion to digress is hard to resist, so many incidents of the various trips seem worth
the telling. To avoid this temptation, will hold to a brief chronological outline of the
walks in tabulated order, which arrangement will, of itself, preclude any digression.
This list includes all outings so far taken, although the first three have already
been noted in a previous number of the quarterly.
E =: have crowded upon one another so closely of late, owing to the enthusi-
Outings.
No. Date. Route or Destination. Leader. Number
in Party
ft Hep.17, 1907...Fort Lawton and West Point Lighthouse...Mr. Curtis -.............. 49
2. March 3 ...Kirkland and the Belt Line road .......... Mrs Cumntis as vc nis see eines 47
38. March 16 ...Tacoma, American Lake and Steilacoom....Mr. Charles Landes ...... 50
4. March 24 ...Interlaken Boulevard to Pontiac .......... Miss Anne Hubert .......3
5. April 7 ....Chico to Lake Kitsap and the Navy Yard...Miss Peckenbaugh ........ 47
Seer Ors ons wart dake ian) INCE \wcie @ ais iris aloe sperssehere Dre BR SUeViens hace. 3 sei
7. April 27-28...Port Ludlow, through Chimacum Valley to
POLE LO Wi SOU eeatwapalelecete ars (erst elenduerenassint sei Mir Constantine 41 i. ie 15
Bainbridge Island Trip—
8. May 4-5 ....1st day, Pleasant Beach Country Club,
(Pork Lente Sabha ae eee \ihayes Meveibeh © Veo ce vcr. crdinca Gros Orbea oo oon 26
2nd day, Wing Point, Eagle Harbor, Mr. L. T. Banks
Crystal Springs and Pleasant Beach RIDES O Bic UO HOD OO Uae eee
9. May 10-12...Snoqualmie Falls and Ascent of Mt. Si....Prof. Henry Landes ......36
TAS 8 heh I rr Tacoma and American: Lake. ...2.. «5. <s= Profs: BS BIE CE ro. bare cites oe
OLAV AO sss. ot Around NLErGOr Sands ar. nveusva) aatonstaya-) oo) a) campers Mr. & Mrs. C. A. Meyers...47
ee NETIC! 2s. bs BEMSVULE AMG INLAN UUCe ech opdeenevsts, etepe tates owes) .<pet ote Mr Ee eA Nelson: tts 5..s cae 27
US eed Je ge I ae Clambake and Campfire at Yeomale Point,
istiinaj arse. IGEnoe RRineetra owe cade adetec oe te Dr. C. S. Eaton, hostess... .80
Of these outings many a tale might be told, how on the first over-night trip;
of the many feminine members “surely going,” all failed to materialize when the
time came, except two, but it was a bit early to welcome sleeping on the cold, cold
ground.
Then on the Bainbridge Island trip it is whispered that the “‘sleep-out’”” members
were outnumbered by the ‘“sleep-ins.”” However, it is said that the latter were pre-
vented from indulging in sweet dreams by the noise of the “outs.” This is testified
to by the inhabitants who live on that part of the island.
As to the ascent of Mount Si, that is a story of itself, and will be found elsewhere
recorded,—with all the most exciting episodes carefully omitted.
But the history of The Mountaineers is not alone that of outings, and that the
interest of its members is quite as great along other lines is evidenced by the crowded
condition of the Chamber of Commerce rooms at the regular monthly meetings of the
club, the usual attendance averaging fully one hundred or more; and the enthusi-
asm with which all of its lectures are attended. At the lecture given by David Starr
Jordan, President of Leland Stanford Junior University, on “The Ascent of the
Matterhorn, although being the only lecture for which members were charged ad-
mission, the demand for tickets was so great that many failed to secure even stand-
ing room, despite the size of the hall secured.
At the regular April meeting a lecture on ‘Mountain Birds and Other Birds”
was given by Mr. William F. Finley, of Portland, Ore., representing the National
Audubon Society. The lecture described a boat trip of several weeks spent studying
the water birds of Lakes Klamath and Tule in Oregon.
On motion of Mr. William Leon Dawson, the following committee was named to
further the organization of a Washington branch of the Audubon Society: Frank J.
Cooper, City Superintendent of Schools; H. Rief, game warden; Asahel Curtis,
0) THE
MOUNTAINEER
photographer; Miss Nettie Sawyer, Supervisor of primary grades, Seattle schools;
and Miss Mary Banks, Reference librarian, Seattle Public Library.
May 17 a lecture, illustrated by stereopticon views, was given by Prof. Henry
Landes on “The Origin of the Scenery in the High Mountains.”
suggestions for motto and symbol for The Mountaineers were called for.
At the May meeting
After some
discussion of the ones proposed, the decision was finally left to the Program Com-
mittee.
On June 15 a special meeting was called in order that the members might learn the
result of the preliminary reconnoissance of the Outing Committee, who had just
returned from their trip into the Olympics.
They brought a favorable report of the
trail, and also reported good progress on the work of packing supplies up the
mountain side by the pack-train which had been previously purchased by the club.
LIST OF MEMBERS ADDED SINCE APRIL 1, 1907.
All of Seattle, unless otherwise noted,
Barnes, Dr. 8. D.
Barnes, Mrs. 8. D.
Beaver, Mr. Averill.
Burdick, Miss Mary.
Carlock, Mr. Mark A.,
Wash.
Chalmers, Mr. D. Duncan.
Chalmers, Mr. Peter C.
Crary, (Mr. K. W.
Davis, Miss Ruth L.
Egardly, Mr. John.
Epler, Mr. Franklin.
Franzelin, Mr. Edward.
Gordon, Miss Julia.
Gray, Mr. Charles H.
Harley, Mir. Ss:
Harley, Mrs. Laura
C.S.):
Hartmann, Miss C. E.
Hotelling, Miss May.
Hotelling, Miss Vera.
Johnson, Miss Nellie S.
Kaiser, Mr. George.
Aberdeen,
Potter (Mrs.
Kilgour, Miss Bertha F.,
Yakima, Wash.
MeDaniels, Miss Metta.
MacMahon, Mr. Thomas R.
Miller, Miss Lilhan.
North
Peck, Mr. Harcourt, Los Angeles,
Cal.
Penney, Mr. Robert L., Minneapolis,
Minn.
Rea, Mr. Richard W.
Simmons, Miss L. Merle.
Southard, Mr. Frank 8.
Stearns, Miss Jane.
Stevens, Mr. H. C.
Tone, Miss Margaret.
Turner, Mr. Charles A.
Van Horn, Rev. F. J.
Vevers, Mr. William.
Wardwell, Mr. S. L.
Watkins, Mr. Walter H.
Wells, Mr. E. H.
Wilhelmsdorfer, Mr. R.
Wright, Miss Mary H.
Ls eraser eee
|
| Ladies’ Hunting or
Outing Skirts —
“Made to measure of finest imported corduroy
‘| or finest quality superior duck. Suit consists of
; pve skirt and bloomers.
We also carry a fine line of men’s hunting and
si outing wear. ‘The largest and best selected stock
|. of fishing tackle, guns and ammunition in Seattle,
Cameras and photo supplies.
Raye 1024-26 Ind Ave.
yi Piper & Taft The Sporting Gonds Store
y
Co ee re ee eee real
»
rs . \ |
ne Single Fare 35c
Fly on the Fyer 323 seis soo Seattle-Tacoma Route
Four Round Trips Daily
TIME CARD
Leave Seattle, 6:45, 10:25 a:°m.° 2:05, 5:45. p.m. a teas
Leaves Tacoma, 8255 As IN: 12515; 3255, F230 p.m
Meals Served a la Carte 5
Landings; Flyer Dock, Seattle; .N, P, Wharf, Tacoma,
U, SEELY, Jr., Agent
Seattle Telephone, Main 176; Tacoma Telephone 211,
KODAKS —
AND
Photo Supplies
q™”: develop and print
for amateurs
Bank 8 Wiese
220 Pike St.
We carry
Norman & Bennet’s
Tan Boots.
For mountain climbing
Men’s and women’s size
Treen Shoe Co. Avenue
Waterproof
Khaki clothing and .°~
Clothing bedding’ for
mountain .
climbing
C. G. Filson
Best goods, well made, at rea- °
Sonable prices; sleeping bzgs; out-
ing clothing’ for men eae women
made to. order.
Globe Bik., 1011 ist coe.
Seattle, Wash. m
Phones:
Everything in |
| We. wank
ae drag trade
Cee ‘Ave, a0
& ib naa St.
: SEATILE Be
To all
Mountain Climbers
Who are looking for
Duxbark Clothing.
We carry. a full line
for ladies and gents
et at 612 2nd Ave., Alas-
“Ka Building. °
Hardy. -Hall Arms. mite a
TENTS
Silk, Duck and Khaki :
“We are casafacinrers of every-
thing in canvas, and ¢an fit you
out’ right for your: song: No
‘trouble to quote, prices.
‘PUGET SOUND — i
TENT & puck co. |
410° Occidental Ave.
(RUGHIB ES 2
| Main” 2195: Ind. 2643,
- Cosson & Kelly, | o :
rene
Mountaineer
OLYMPIC NUMBER
SEPTEMBER
| VALDEZ FURNITURE
COMPANY _
(imCORPORATED)
Jj. F. BLAKE, Pres.
Everything to Furnish the Home Complete
General Household Goods
Stoves and Carpets
To Encourage Home Building a Liberal Discount
will be Given te Newly Married Couples. -
Sunset Main 2332, Ind. 5030
1510 First Ave., Near Pike
Seattle, Wn.
c ¢ LA
Se eee
?
»
f
i As
= eas 7 ee | .
“¢
‘oD o1ydeasojoUd S,uvwoy Aq po ystiAdoH ‘stqanD jouesy Aq oJOUd
‘SQOGANWATIO LNOOW AWOL LAVLS THL
VAT = 1IUg
The Mountaineer
LIBRA!
NEW Yc
Published Quarterly. BOTANK
GARDE
MARY BANKS, Editor.
Application made for entry at the Seattle postoffice as mail matter of the second class.
Subscription price, One Dellar the year. Single numbers Twenty-five Cents.
WOOL, ‘1. SEPTEMBER, 1907. NO. 3.
TABLE, OF..CONTENTS;
Page
Notes on the Bed Rock Geology of the Olympic Peninsula. Charles E. Weaver, Professor of
SGuolegy: Clniversity of Washington, 3 57" Se ee ee whe Pe eet SS 58
# Mountameer’s Reverie’ (peem).: ‘Lilie: Nettleton) <6 12) 5 fee is a St 64
Siiee Ascent ot Mount’ Olympus. Ls A. Melson 62.038 oe aie ee a A 65
Stomme ound: on Vlount Olympus: -Acahells G@urtisn et ee os ee Ne a 69
ee eayoon Mount Vesuvins.” Adelaide; b..Rallock™ “2 uso io 8 oak ee oN ed 72
Sanraemeersiin* tne © lympics:<—— 25 a Sates ene eee a eee gee BO a et 75
Baeomunal Cruting, Members of ary 2-25 esse See Swf ook Eee ee 80
Germ Nccente oo CET Ree Sa ee amar weed ee os en ee eee 81
Wrnyaotntvecordhoundsingllwnan basse eee ek re eee eee oer. Ss See es 87
Publication of this number has been delayed for two promised articles on the Flora and Fauna of
the Olympic region. The identity of certain specimens being still unverified, it was finally decided to
go to press without further delay, and include these contributions in the rext issue.
OFFICERS.
Ey 8 EES" BB (ee ee alee ee Henry Lanpes, Sicte Geologist, University of Washington
0 ees! BEES 7 1 OA fl oS Se ee Dr. J. F. SwEENEy, Hotel Seaitle
STE(CL REST IAN RIN ies wt os Se ae ae ne Re Dr. Cora SmitH Eaton, Arcade Building
TURES) O24 2] 8 A ere ee oe ee ee Dr. E. F. Stevens, 1505 East Madison Street
EATS IRORTANE 2 232 os 2s Ror ee Mary Banks, Reference Librarian, Seattle Public Library
BOARD OF DIRECTORS.
Henry LanpeEs
W. Monte ius PrRIcE
E. F. STEVENS
J. P. Sweeney
Mary Banks
ASAHEL CuRTIS
Cora SmitH Eate.
E. L. Hampton
E. WELDON YOUNG
COMMITTEES.
Program Outing.
Prof. Theodore C. Frye Mr. Asahel Curtis
Miss Alida J. Bigelow Dr. Cora Smith Eaton
Miss Joe I. Kincaid Mr. W. M. Price
House Publishing.
Mrs. E. F. Stevens Miss Mary Banks, Editor
Miss Anna Hubert Miss Adelaide L. Pollock
Miss Daisy Lane Mr. John A. Best, Jr.
THE MOUNTAINEER
3]
Go
Notes on the Bed Rock Geology of the
Olympic Peninsula
By CHARLES E. WEAVER
ROBABLY one of the least known and as yet unexplored areas in the
Bg continental portion of the United States hes in the northwestern part
of the state of Washington and is known as the Olympic peninsula.
The interest in the geolcgy of this region which was aroused during the
writer’s outing with The Mountaineers has resulted in a few scattered notes,
part of which are derived from first hand information in the field, and part
from the published investigations of Dr. Ralph Arnold of the United States
Geological Survey, who has made a somewhat extended study of the geology
along the coast. The results here given are only general and entirely from
a popular standpoint and it is only after a detailed scientific study of the
whole area has been made that any account even approaching accuracy can
be attempted. The region is wild, heavily timbered and in many places
difficult of access and as no suitable maps are available, geological work must
be earried on under serious difficulties. However, the attractiveness of the
field, the grandeur of the scenery and the interesting and varied geological
problems to be worked out make the Olympic mountains of especial interest
not only to those interested in elucidating the geology of the west coast of
North America, but also to those who delight in the enjoyment of a vacation
spent in a primeval district which is as yet so little known.
The Olympie peninsula is a rugged land area very nearly surrounded
by water. On the east it is bounded by Puget Sound and Hood’s Canal,
on the north by the Straits of Juan de Fuca, on the west by the Pacific
ocean and on the south by Grays Harbor and the Chehalis valley. The
counties embraced within this area are Chehalis, Mason, Clallam, Jefferson
and Kitsap. The area occupied by this peninsula approaches something
like eight thousand square miles. The extent from east to west is about
eighty miles and from north to south about one hundred miles.
The topographic features of the Olympic peninsula consist of a central
mass composed of high, rugged and serrated mountain ridges which grad-
ually diminish in altitude until they become a very low plateau along the
coast with an elevation of less than three hundred feet above sea level.
The high central portion of this peninsula, of which Mount Olympus is the
culminating point, has a general east to west trend and is perhaps twenty
miles long by ten to fifteen in width. The maximum elevation on the highest
peak of Mount Olympus is 8,250 feet and the average elevation in the district
around the mountain is between five thousand and eight thousand feet.
West of this central area the elevation of the mountain ridges decreases
and in the vicinity of the Hoh and Soleduck rivers it ranges from four to
five thousand feet, and from then on continues to decrease to nearly sea
level at the coast. To the northeast and southeast the elevation gradually
decreases and finally we have only low foothills along the Straits of Juan
de Fuea and Hood’s Canal.
The main central mass is drained by a large number of rivers which
head in the vicinity of Mount Olympus and from there radiate outward in
THE MOUNTAINEER 59
all directions. The majority of the streams flowing east are short and have
a much steeper grade than those flowing to the west. The latter have much
longer courses and near the coast flow across lands comparatively low.
There are three important inland bodies of fresh water which lie in the
foothills near the coast. They are Lake Crescent, which is inland about
sixteen miles southwest from Port Angeles; Quiniault lake, which is inland
from the Pacific and about twenty miles to the northeast from the mouth
of the Quiniault river; and Ozette lake, which lies inland about three miles
from the coast and a little south of Cape Flattery. In addition to these
three there is Lake Cushman, which lies in the southwestern portion of the
region a short distance inland from Hood’s Canal.
On the coast, both to the north along the Straits of Juan de Fuea and
to the west along the Pacific ocean, the elevations range from fifty to three
hundred feet and there is here what is usually termed a terrace with pre-
cipitous cliffs along the snore. This terrace is not absolutely level and in
many places has prominent ridges rising upon it. Through the more highly
elevated mountainous region in the interior and in the nearly level terraces
near the coast the streams have cut canyons which in some places are very
narrow and precipitous. Both along the north and west coasts the shore
line is fringed by a wave cut platform. The platform is well exposed at low
tide and in places is dotted here and there with projecting rock prominences
in the form of reefs or ledges. At high tide these are covered and not
visible and are a constant source of danger to navigation. The north-
eastern coast, east of Port Angeles, is of a different nature. Here the bluffs
or cliffs along the shore are composed largely of glacial material. Ex-
tending out from the bluff in several places are long, curved sand spits
forming protected harbors. These may be seen at Port Angeles and at
Port Townsend.
The bed rocks which go to make up the mountains of the Olympic
peninsula are represented by the three main divisions which are known
to geologists as igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic rocks. Under the
igneous division are grouped such rocks as have solidified from a molten
condition either in great masses beneath the surface of the earth or else as
lava flows upon the surface. Under the division kn@wn as sedimentary are
ineluded such well known rocks as sandstones, shales, conglomerates lime-
stones, ete. These have nearly all been formed along sea shore or other
bodies of water, by the vast accumulation of waste material brought down
by streams from the interior, or from the waste of the sea cliffs themselves
for long periods of time. After such depositing the beds of sediment were
uplifted high above sea level in the form of mountains as we know them
today. Under the metamorphic division we have such rocks as slates,
schists, quartzites, ete., which are simply sedimentary or igneous rocks
which have been altered both in composition and general appearance by the
effects of pressure or heat from intruded igneous rocks.
The great central mass of the Olympic mountains is composed of
metamorphic rocks. The most conspicuous varieties are schists, slates and
quartzites. Around the coastal border of this interior metamorphic area are
sedimentary rocks, consisting of sandstones and shales, and associated with
these are igneous lava flows. Along the eastern and southern margins of this
area are boulders of granite and other rocks which are not found in the
bed rock series of the Olympic mountains, but are common in the mountains
on the east and north sides of Puget Sound. The granites and similar
60 THE MOUNTAINEER
rocks were brought into the Olympics and deposited there by great glaciers
which at one time came down trom the Cascades an1 from the mountains of
British Columbia. The glaciers occupied the Puget Sound basin and filled
the broader valley of the Olympies.
In the history of the earth we find many principles which govern the
study of human history. <A study of the rocks and their fossil contents
gives us a history of the geological development of our planet in the same
way that a study of records, archives and works of art of former nations
and races gives us a history of human civilization. In human history we
have periods such as ancient, medieval and modern, and their subdivisions,
so have we in geology; the only difference being that in geology we regard
time as much longer than in human history. We conceive of geological
periods in millions of years rather than in hundreds, the major divisions
of geological time ranging from the older to the younger are spoken of as
the Archaean, Palaeozoic, Mesozoic, Tertiary and Recent. Within the
Olympie peninsula, the Archaean and probably the Palaeozoic rocks are not
represented.
The hard metamorphic rocks composing the great central portion of
the Olympic mountains in all probability belong to Mesozoie time. These
rocks are made up for the most part of quartzites and schists, which at one
time before they were metamorphosed were sandstones, conglomerates and
shales. They have been uplifted into a mountain mass and then folded and
erumpied and possibly invaded by great masses of igneous roek trom deep
down in the earth’s erust, but which have never penetrated the surface.
The result has been that these intense crustal movements have folded and
disturbed the strata so that they no longer lie horizontal, but are tilted up
on edge. Such disturbances have caused cracks and fissures to be formed,
both large and small, and in these we have deposits of silica, well known
as quartz veins. Sandstones, which originally contained pebbles and large
boulders, have been squeezed to such a degree by the folding processes
that the pebbles which were originally round and nearly spherical have
been drawn out into great lone elliptical forms, sometimes ten or fifteen
times as long as they are wide. The majority of them are all elongated
in the same direction and parallel with the strike or general direction in
which the layers of the strata extend. A section across the strike of the
strata, which in other words represents the character of the materials com-
posing the beds from base to top, is beautifully represented in following
up the Elwha river to its headwaters. The Tertiary lavas and sandstones
which have been mentioned extend from Port Angeles to a point about four
miles above MeDonald, on the Elwha. Beyond this the slates and schists
are represented. North of this contact the metamorphic rocks probably
underlie the Tertiary formation. Between MeDonald and Geyser the
metamorphie rocks appear to be made up largely of slates with only a small
proportion of quartzites and schists. The schist is simply a shale which
has undergone much more intense metamorphism than the slates. As one
proceeds further alone the strike and examines the area along the Elwha
between Gelser and Elkhorn, te finds the effects of metamcor jhism to be much
more pronouneed, schist and quartzite becoming much more common. The
fracturing of the strata is more noticeable and every now and then a quartz
vein may be observed. Farther up the valley near the Godstein, and even
up to the Elwha basin itself, the effects of metamorphism become much more
marked. In the vicinity of the basin bed rock is finely exposed. The recent
THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT QUEETS.
: First Ascent From the West.
Photo by Asahel Curtis. Copyrighted by Roman’s Photographic Co:
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THE MOUNTAINEER 63
disappearance of the glaciers has left to view a vast rock-scoured country.
In going up the divide between the Elwha and the Quiniault, the section
may be studied in detail. The strata are not only tilted, but they are
squeezed and contorted and made to fold upon themselves. In areas only a
few feet in diameter, the individual strata may be seen folded back and
forth and even faulted to a minor degree. Quartz veins are numerous and
represent fissures and cracks which have since been filled with silica. In
general the veins are nearly parallel to the strike of the strata and lie
nearly parallel to the bedding planes. They are not persistent; that. is,
they do not continue with the same thickness for any great distance, but
taper out and either entirely disappear or become merely thin stringers
which may or may not coalesce to form again a well-defined vein. One of
the most remarkable features in this region of high mountain ridges is the
increased proportion of quartzite layers. They generally have a light color
and are extremely hard and upon weathering break up into huge blocks.
They are much more resistent to weathering than the softer schists and
shales, and, as a result, make up the major portion of the ridges and high,
rugged peaks. The highest peak of Mount Olympus is for the most part
composed of this quartzite. From Mount Olympus to the north, east, south
and west the country rock appears to be composed of this same metamorphic
material; namely, quartzite, schists, slates, ete. How far to the south it
extends is not certain. No attempt has been made to study this region and
no accurate data are available. The Tertiary rocks are known to occur on
the Humptulips, Wynooche and the Satsop rivers and it is probable that the
contact where the Tertiary beds overlie the metamorphie rocks is somewhere
near, but to the south of the Jefferson and Chehalis county line. To the east
the metamorphie rocks appear to extend at least as far as Mount Constance
and the Sawtooth range, and to the west probably far down into the low-
lying country near the Pacific ocean. In one place it is known that they
extend even to the ocean itself. The general dip of the strata, or the angle
which their plane makes with that of the horizon, is about 45 degrees.
Where the strata are first exposed near McDonald the dip is lowest, but it
gradually increases until in the high Olympics the beds stand nearly vertical
or are even reversed. The dip is not constant, however, and at one or two
localities near the headwaters of the Quiniault repeated folding or possible
faulting is suggested. Viewed from Mount Olympus the dip appears to be
reversed on the north side of the Hoh river valley, which, if true, means a
broad fold or syncline between Mount Olympus and the Hoh valley. To
the north the metamorphic formations may be seen nearly to Lake Crescent
and to the north side of the canyon of the Soleduck. Beyond this they are
covered with strata of Tertiary age.
The rocks belonging to the Tertiary are divided into three periods,
known as the Eocene, Miocene and Pliocene. The oldest is the Eocene.
They are all represented by sandstones, shales and conglomerates. In
these rocks may be found the remains of former marine life, consisting of
elam shells, snail shells, sea urchins, ete. Such remains are petrified and are
known as fossils. It is by means of the different species of fossils that we
know the rock to be of Tertiary age, and by comparing the characteristic
species with those of other areas, where the ages of the rocks are well known.
we are enabled to divide the Tertiary into the Eocene, Miocene and Pliocene.
The main mass of the Olympic mountains is made up of metamorphic rocks,
which might be styled the Olympic formation. No rocks of known Tertiary
64 THE MOUNTAINEER
age are known to occur within the mountain. On the coast we have the
Tertiary well represented. The Eocene formation is well exposed north
of Lake Crescent and from then westward along the Straits of Juan de Fuea.
It is composed of basaltic lava and interbedded tuffs and has an estimated
thickness of something over one thousand feet. The hard, dark igneous rock,
so well exposed at the bridge across the Elwha river near McDonald, is
probably of the same age. Farther to the west and stratigraphically higher
in the Tertiary series we have an extensive formation composed of sand-
stone, conglomerates and shales, which are of Miocene age. They extend
from Clallam westward and make up the great bulk of Cape Flattery. The
estimated thickness of this formation is in the neighborhood of fifteen
thousand feet. At several intervals from the base to the top .of the forma-
tion bands of conglomerate occur, composed for the most part of pebbles de-
rived from the various members of the metamorphosed Olympic formations.
Interbedded with the sandstones are shales and clays which are fossiliferous.
In one or two small areas strata of Pliocene age are reported.
The last deposits to be laid down are known as Pleistocene, and they
consist partly of marine and partly of glacial material, such as till, sand,
clay and gravels. On the Pacific side of the peninsula the deposits consist
of sand, clay and gravels of marine origin and have a thickness of over
one hundred and twenty-five feet. To the east of Port Angeles, on the
Straits of Juan de Fuca and along the arms of Puget Sound, the majority
of the Pleistocene deposits are probably of glacial origin. In the interior
and high up in the mountains are glacial deposits, but of local origin, and
having no connection with the glacial deposits on the coast.
The Olympics may have been submerged during Miocene time and at its
close uplifted and then the overlying Miocene rocks removed by erosion, or
the central portion may have been a land area during Miocene time and
sandstones and shales may have been laid down around its margin and then
uplifted at the close of Miocence deposition. At any rate, an uplift at the
close of the Miocene seems evident and another one late in Phocene time.
There is evidence that deformation is still in progress, as is shown by the
folding and tilting of Pleistocene deposits along the coast.
A Mountaineer’s Reverie
LULIE NETTLETON
ITTING in the rosy firelight, drowsing, dreaming there alone,
S Banished are the cares of daytime by the thoughts of pleasures gone.
As the breath of rose leaves lingers, faintly sweet from faded flowers,
So my memories hover round me, in the pleasant twilight hours.
I wander again in the forest, the Elwha sings at my feet,
Or perchance in a mountain meadow I gather strange wild flowers sweet,
Or I stand on a rocky summit and gaze on a radiant scene,
Where in majesty and splendor Nature reigns alone supreme.
Memory is rich in treasures that are buried deep until
We may need their inspiration and uncover them at will;
So, in the rosy firelight, I will let my thoughts unfold
And fondle long buried treasures as a miser counts his gold.
THE MOUNTAINEER
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The Ascent of Mount Olympus
By L. A. NELSON
HE first ascent of the west peak of Mount Olympus made by the Moun-
taineers, and probably the first made by any one, was accomplished
by a party of eleven on August 13, 1907. Although hampered by
storms the party reached the summit without great difficulty and were re-
warded by one of the grandest views to be had in the American mountains.
At 4:30 on the morning of August i3th, the most despised call of the
day was sounded through camp and with a reluctant sigh the company rolled
out of their warm blankets only to encounter a cold wet fog that lay like
a pall over the valley. With hopes of better weather after sun-up, breakfast
preparations were begun and rushed to a finish and at 5 o’clock breakfast
was served. In the meantime it was discovered that two of the party had
not reported, and a short search revealed them tucked snugly away in their
blankets. A vigorous bombardment with tin cans soon drove them out,
with the remark that they had no desire to be canned. Visions of at least
fourteen hours between breakfast and dinner seemed to be a wonderful
appetizer, judging by the way food disappeared.
The eall, ‘‘Fall in’’ came at 5:40 and five minutes later the march was
begun. The clouds hung low, with every indication of rain and with many
an anxious look and comment on the weather the conquerors of Olympus
moved onward.
After traveling across the morain of the Humes glacier we turned to the
northwest up a snow-slope, which we followed a short distance. Leaving
the snow we crossed a talus of rock-slope and descended.a precipitous rock
cliff to the Humes glacier. A few minutes for adjusting packs and the party
started for the head of the glacier. The weather was growing colder and
in a short time it began to snow. Nothing daunted we pushed on, and to
a question as to the weather, an optimist of the party said, ‘‘The sun will be
out soon,’’ and sure enough in a few minutes the snow stopped falling and
the sun came out in all its splendor.
After traveling two miles up an easy shde, winding in and out among
crevasses, that yawned on every side, we climbed a 35 degrees slope to the
summit of Blizzard pass. From this point we had our first clear view of
Mount Olympus, East peak with its clear-cut profile of a sphinx head being
the nearest; to the left of it and a mile further away Middle peak, a
massive bulk; and still further away and directly west of East peak was
West peak, the main and highest of all. Working our way down a steep
snow-slope and a ridge of rock to the Hoh glacier with a loss of elevation
of 700 feet we turn to the south toward the head of the glacier on a
eradually increasing grade. On reaching the steeper slopes we turn to the
westward a trifle and with short rests keep plugging away.
About this time the question arose as to whether we would see Mount
Rainier, and, during one of our rests one of the party called out, ‘‘There
it is,’’ followed by a chorus of, ‘‘Where?’’ and sure enough, there in all its
matchless beauty was the greatest of all our mountains. A few stages
further, and, ‘‘There is Adams!’’ is heard. On a short distance and as we
pause to look again at Rainier and Adams, St. Helens is also seen. By this
FIRST PARTY TO REACH THE HIGHEST PEAK OF THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS.
Photo: Dyn Jb. 1C., rye:
ON THE TOP OF MOUNT NOYES.
Photo by John A. Best, Jr.
THE MOUNTAINEER 67
time we do not know what to expect and when Mount Baker and Mount
Hood are seen, the latter over 200 miles away, words fail and we ean only
gaze in silence at the magnificent panorama spread before us. Upon reach-
ing the top of the slope we find it to be comparatively flat and about one-
fourth or one-half mile in extent, seamed here and there with crevasses.
To the right, the Hast and Middle peaks, seemingly within easy reach.
A short rest was taken here, during which an anxious lookout was kept to
the west for a view of the ocean.
One-half mile further and within one-half hour of the summit of Middle
peak we stopped for lunch. No tonic nor appetizer was necessary and the
scene of the morning was repeated. The inner man being refreshed, and
with spirits corresponding to the altitude, the conquest was resumed. A
short distance nearly level, then a long climb up a 40 degree slope. Reach-
ing the end of the snow we stepped over to the rock and after a short
climb, reached the summit.
Here we found a cairn with the record of the Parker ascent of July
17, 1907, inelosed in a tin can. While some were busy building a eairn that
would stand the weather, others were writing the record and taking pic-
tures. The Parker party thought this was the highest and main peak when
they made the ascent, but after seeing the peak to the west they were in
doubt and said that from their observations it was possibly higher. They
did not like to admit having missed the main summit.
The view from the summit of Middle peak surpassed our expectations.
To the westward lay the mighty Pacific; to the north, beyond the dark
eanyon of the Hoh that sears the northern slope of Olympus, lay the Straits
of Juan de Fuea, with Vancouver Island in the background. It was to the
eastward, however, that the most wonderful scene was unfolded. Probably
the grandest setting of mountain scenery in the world stretched away from
our very feet. Close at hand were the rugged summits of Meany, Seattle,
Cougar peak, Queets, Noyes, Anderson, Christy, Dana and Barnes, sur-
rounded on the higher levels by large glaciers and snow-fields with beautiful
parked valleys below. Beyond this hes the range of the Olympics that is
seen from Puget Sound and known as the Coast range, with Mount Angeles,
Constance and The Brothers the most prominent peaks, while through a
evap in the mountains the Sound itself was visible. As a background for all
this rose the great voleanoes of the Cascade range from Mount Baker,
‘“‘the Great White Watcher,’’ on the north, past Glacier peak, Rainier,
Adams, St. Helens and on to the distant spire of Mount Hood, 200 miles
away. To the south a vast sea of timbered hills stretched out and out as
far as the eye could see, fading away into a blue haze.
The work on this peak being finished, the course of empire was still
westward, down the rocky west slope of Middle peak. The first to reach
the end of the rock and get out on the snow saw a laughable sight, some of
the more timid passing down their alpine stocks and hanging on tooth and
nail, making the descent with fear and trembling. Every one being safely
down and ready to move the clouds played us a fine trick by coming down
and shutting out all of the peaks from our sight, leaving us to travel on the
information we had gained from our former view. Going slowly and doing
a good deal of prospecting we at last made out what we thought to be the
West peak. Three of the party having reached the top, one of them gave a
shout that died when half uttered, for just at that moment the clouds parted,
and there, one-fourth mile away was our goal. We had climbed one of the
68 THE MOUNTAINEER
five fingers to the north of West peak. Retracing our steps a short dis-
tance we swung around to the north side of the proper peak, up which we
made our ascent. There was some real climbing here, every climber having
to be extremely careful not only to keep from falling, but also not to loosen
and start rock on the people below. Slowly, steadily, surely we moved on,
and, at last, we reached the summit that so many have tried for and so many
claim to have reached. After a thorough search for traces of former ascents
we came to the conclusion that we were the first to reach the summit of
the highest peak in the Olympic mountains, West peak, 8,250 feet, as well
as the first large party to reach the next in altitude, Middle peak, 8,150 feet.
With a mighty cheer and then a song we started our task of cairn building,
record writing and picture taking.
The record contains the names of the party, which was comprised of the
following: Miss Anna Hubert, the first woman to reach the summit of
Mount Olympus, L. A. Nelson, W. Montelius Price, Prof. Henry Landes,
Prof. Charles Landes, Prof. T. C. Frye, Prof. F. M. Plumb, Prof. Weaver,
Prof. J. B. Flett, E. E. Richards, A: W. Archer.
We were soon on our way back to camp. The descent was a great deal
faster than the ascent and we quickly reached the snow, making good time
for Middle peak, which we had to chmb again to reach the Hoh glacier.
The summit of Middle peak was soon reached and then a glorious coast
down the slope that took so much energy to surmount, it taking over twenty
minutes to ascend and one of the party coasted it in ten seconds.
From this point it was a case of travel and we surely did that, reach-
ing camp in two and one-half hours, or one-half the time it took to make
the same point in the morning. Twelve and one-half hours after leaving
camp we were back again and found a warm dinner awaiting us.
The writer found two days later that West peak could be reached by a
shorter and easier route without the ascent of Middle peak, leaving an easy
trip up Middle peak on the return to camp.
THE MOUNTAINEER 69
Storm Bound on Mount Olympus
By ASAHEL CURTIS, Chairman Outing Committee
HE attempt of the first party of Mountaineers to reach the summit of
Mount Olympus through a driving rain and snow storm, with the
storm clouds sweeping around the peak, was splendid even in its
failure. It was the culmination of an outing remarkable for the number of
ascents made, and was undertaken in the storm, only because there was no
further time in which to do it. No ordinary storm would have prevented
the ascent, even then, for the spirit of the party was splendid, but it was
impossible to make one’s way up the vast snow-fields facing the thirty-mile
gale that was blowing, the fury of which can be judged from the fact that
it was found later that a foot of snow fell on the summit during the
storm.
The ascent was attempted from a temporary camp in the Queets valley,
about eight miles from the main camp, to which the party had moved on
the 9th of August. At dawn on the 10th clouds were clinging to the summits
and often rolled down into the valleys, but a little later the weather ap-
peared to be clearing and the distant summits of Queets, Meany and Noyes
came into view. It was determined to make an attempt, at least, and if the
storm broke away to push on to the summit. The party moved out from
camp in company formation seemingly very cheerful and happy despite the
cold raw morning and the poor prospect of success. Passing the base of the
Humes glacier and swinging over a point of rock to avoid the broken ice
along its face they dropped down on the ice on the right or northern bank.
The mist had changed to a rain, a cold wind was blowing and the situation
was anything but pleasant. Ahead for two miles, steadily ascending, the
Humes glacier stretched away toward the main bulk of the mountain, now
lost in the clouds. The ice-field seemed like a great road-way, walled in as
it was by cliffs of slate. There was no danger of loosing the way, for all
the snow at the base of the cliffs was smooth, unbroken by crevasses, while
as a guide, on the left lay the main glacier with its dark, forbidding surface
broken and impossible. Over this roadway the party made its way rapidly,
the cold being an incentive to action. Only a few were troubled by the
altitude, causing a difficulty in breathing, but this delayed the main party,
for all must advance together. Because of the rock chffs in the rear no
one could be sent baek, and no one could be left along the way.
Half way up the Humes glacier the rain changed to flurries of snow,
swept along by a stiff wind. Still hoping against fate, the advance con-
tinued. At the head of the glacier the snow-field rose at a steep angle,
hiding the mountain beyond. Once out from the protection of this snow-
ridge, exposed to the full fury of the gale and everyone’s hopes sank.
Advancing still in company formation the party came out on the very edge
of the snow-field, which here falls away to the great Hoh glacier at such a
steep angle that its slope cannot be seen from the crest. Seven hundred
feet below, now hidden by the storm, the glacier wound away to the north-
ward. Through the pass at its head a thirty-mile gale was blowing, whirling
the snow along as it fell. The distant cliffs of the main mountain were lost
to view. The party appeared suspended in the heavens on the edge of
some great cloud, with a white desolate world forming out of the chaos.
‘stqinp ‘y Aq o.OUd ‘sopuey ‘HY Aq 0OUd
‘SLEORNO LNAOW NO SZOINUCO MONS ‘ANVGILT ITENNOW JO dOL AHL OL LSOWIV
THE MOUNTAINEER 71
Three members of the party were exhausted, and it seemed folly to risk
lives on the glacier in such a storm for the mere bauble of a mountain
summit.
Action was necessary, but it must be a retreat. As disappointing as it
was to abandon the ascent there was no other reasonable course to be taken,
and after a few words of explanation the order was given: ‘‘Advance by
companies independently. ’’
The long line appeared to melt away as the commands were given
simultaneously : ‘‘Company A, Company B, Company C, Company D, fall in.’’
Four lines were moving forward instantly where had stood, but a moment
before, a shivering group of people. The spirit of the party was still splen-
did, even in its disappointment, and when the bugler with the general staff
sounded the retreat, a faint cheer went up.
The most difficult part of the trip still lay ahead, that of getting a
eold, half exhausted party down a mountain safely in a storm such as was
then raging. Still moving at almost a double quick with the main party,
a small party was ordered from the line and sent on in advanee to start
fires and prepare for the main party. The girls who were unable to keep
up were ordered to the rear with men enough to help them along. Half
way down the glacier, two of the general staff went on in advance to place
a line up the rock where the party must leave the glacier.
Through all of this the discipline was perfect. Orders were obeyed
as quickly as given; no one seemed to misunderstand and everyone appre-
ciated the necessity for haste. When Company A reached the foot of the
rock slope the hne was in place and, without halting. the party moved
along up. Company B followed in the same perfect order and when the
two companies were up, the small party of girls, having reached the foot of
the slope, were sent up to keep them moving toward camp. The two ad-
vance companies were ordered to go to camp without waiting for the others,
as the rest of the way was well known and there seemed no “possible chance
of danger. When the girls, now four in all, reached the top of the slope
they were placed under command of one of the lieutenants and also
ordered to go to camp. Company C and Company D followed as rapidly as
possible and soon the whole party were apparently out of all danger and
within but a half mile of the temporary camp. Momentarily loosing their
way in the mist the small party turned to the right and attempted to go down
a steep draw to the snow-field. Here on the slippery, rain-soaked heather
one of the girls, Miss Winona Bailey, lost her footing and in a moment slid
and fell over the rocks a hundred feet, until she wedged under the snow at
the base of the cliff. That the fall was not fatal seemed miraculous. Dr.
Stevens, who was acting as rear guard for Company D, was ealled forward
and was working over the girl within five minutes after she fell. A stretcher
was hastily improvised from a life hne wound around two alpine stocks and
as soon as the worst wounds were dressed she was started for camp, half a
mile away along the mountain slope.
The task before the party now was tremendous, that of fitting up a
hospital in a driving rain, without even a tent for shelter, and caring for
a helpless girl ten miles from the main camp, with that camp sixty miles in
the heart of the mountains. That it was possible to dress wounds as severe
as her’s here in the mountains was due to the foresight of Dr. Stevens, who
had brought instruments and supplies, and in the meager shelter afforded
by a strip of canvas stretched against a rock, was able to dress her wounds
72 THE MOUNTAINEER
perfectly, even though one cut alone required eleven stitches. Here in this
rude hospital, with the rain still falling, the main party was compelled to
leave a small band to watch through the night and for days and nights to
come, until it was possible to move her by stages to the main camp. Dr.
Stevens was relieved on the second day by Dr. Eaton, who stayed on with the
second party.
When at last a report came that the girl was safe the main party fell
in line once more and continued the march to the main camp. Reaching the
upper Queets valley they turned backward to look long at the two lines of
smoke that now rose almost straight to the heavens from the commissary and
hospital fires while to the westward the vast bulk of Mount Olympus
shrouded in clouds refused even to bid them farewell.
_A Day on Mount Vesuvius
By ADELAIDE L. POLLOCK
HEN I reached the top of Vesuvius, a wish of many years
W standing was gratified. Looking backward to my ecluildhood I
see myself and two brothers playing under great firs in the
wooded meadows of a western farm. Tired with following the sugges-
tions of capricious wills we found a shady nook and read the wonderful
descriptions of that persistent traveler, Bayard Taylor. His marvelous
tales awakened in me a desire to see for myself the great places of the
world, and a determination to climb the heights and look out upon the
wonders and glories of the earth.
When, last July, I left Rome for Naples it seemed as if the porters were
never before so slow in getting the passengers settled, the guards never so
deliberate in their saunterings about the platform, but there came a time
when the last call of ‘‘Napoli’’ was given and we were off. The day was
hot, the train dirty, and the journey over the long volcanic plain was dreary
and uneventful, but as we journeyed south the scene changed. Groves of
oaks, fig trees, chestnuts and olives appeared and merged into patches of
corn, stretches of vineyard, and great fields of hemp, where barefooted men,
women and children, all in short garments resembling Mother Hubbards,
were at work. At Sparanise dear old Father Baldeker said we should get
our first glimpse of Vesuvius. How keen was the disappointment on sean-
ning the southern horizon to find the summer haze too thick to penetrate.
The ruined castles and picturesque towers crowning the hilltops or hanging
on bluffs were consolations until a mountain did appear. Was that Vesu-
vius? Could that irregular slope be a voleano? All my previous ideas of
the mountain forgotten, we gazed in disappointment. Not another soul in
the compartment knew any English and therefore it was not possible for
me to express my disenchantment. The luxuriant vegetation attracted my
attention while the train made a wide cirele, and when I looked again the
ereen slope had apparently rolled northward and a great brown cone stood
out boldly against the deep glowing colors of an Italian sunset. But where
were the red lava and the black smoke of the Vesuvian postcard? Was
this ashy mass of earth a living voleano? What could those irregular white
horizontal streaks on the mountain sides be? The threatening feeling of
THE MOUNTAINEER 73
disappointment fled before the thought that, of course, the brilliant colors
of the sunset had hidden the voleanie fires and that night would satisfy all
expectations. Dinner served under the electric lights in the shut-in garden
of the Hotel de la Riviera perhaps softened my feelings, for when, on going
out to the street fringing, the bay, I saw Vesuvius erand in the light of a
full moon, it did not matter if there were no hints of subterranean fires.
The mountain was there and reared its crown above the noisy city and the
silent sea keeping watch now as in the days of Pliny.
During the days of delightful sightseeing I planned to visit the voleano
under the guidance of Thomas Cook & Sons, and with the help of an
obliging hotel clerk I found myself at eight o’clock one morning with a
party of my countrymen ready for the ascent. How good it was to hear
the American voice, even the slang of four Philadelphia students as they
expressed their sentiments against Italian travel, was refreshing. The out-
skirts of the city were flanked by green fields, and we wondered at the
apparent poverty of the cultivators, as shown by the desolate earthen
huts and the almost utter nakedness of the peasants. The earth fairly
teemed with life; vegetation was so thick that the ground was seldom seen.
Groves of orange, lemon, olive and fig supported long branches of grape
vines, which reached out tendrils interlocking the trees, and in the squares
and oblongs thus formed, corn, tomatoes and other vegetables grew up to
the very edge of the lava thrown out by the eruption of last year. <A
passenger asked, ‘‘Do they pick off the leaves to give more room for the
grapes?’’ and we saw there were more bunches of grapes than leaves. It
seems this is due to the great amount of plant food in the voleanie ash. It
was hard to realize that only a year ago this whole region lay under a
blanket of ashes, that what had then caused death and destruction was
today a benefactor in producing such abundant growth.
The road gradually ascended and we came to the city of Resina built
over Herculaneum. We caught but a glimpse of the shaft-like excavations
in the gray ground as we hurried along in a carryall from one electric tram
to another. The inhabitants of the stone houses above the ground know that
they may suffer the same fate as those in the stone houses below, buried
in the year 79, and yet they sing and laugh and live their life with seem-
ing indifference. The car now has the cog system and the country rapidly
drops downward while the scene widens until we reach the Observatory
This building stands on a ridge which an ancient tongue of lava piled high
on the slope. A quarter of a mile over the lava and we leave the train, as
from here on the track was destroyed last year.
We land in a little rectangle of rails where we are assailed by a number
of guides. Just outside are chairs and horses for those who do not wish
to ascend on foot. Our party of twenty refused the clamors of the guides
and started out over the rugged, twisted masses of lava, the guides follow-
ing, continuing their solicitations. Now we saw that the white streaks
were great walls built to keep back the masses of ashes in rain storms
from overwhelming the lowlands. The men set a good pace through the
sickle-shaped valley that les between Monte Somma and the observatory
ridge on one side and Vesuvius on the other. Monte Somma is the moun-
tain whose green slope hides Vesuvius from the north, and from our valley
we see that the abrupt bluff of Monte Somma rises far above our heads.
Later I was told by the American voleanologist, who stayed at Vesuvius
during the recent great eruption, that the two mountains had the same
74 THE MOUNTAINEER
base, and that this valley was probably.once the old crater, while the pres-
ent cone had been built up toward the south thousands of feet above its
original site. The road now begins to zigzag and the breath of the three
women to grow shorter. To add to our afflictions the guides beseech us to
let them help, promising to drag us to the top still so far away. Using a
part of that breath we voice our intentions to get to the top alone and
trudge wearily on until we meet the official guides provided by the com-
mune of Resina. The law compels all tourists to pay these men at least
two and one-half lira (fifty cents) although I think the money is really an
admission fee to the mountain for I could not see what the guides did for the
money. Two of our party refused tribute and we rested while the air was
filled with argument. It was pay or go back, and the guides conquered.
The path of yielding ashes now went straight up at about forty-five degrees.
The sun burned our backs and the ash and lava burned our feet, although
there was no visible heat. It seemed as if human endurance could not with-
stand the soft voices pleading, ‘‘Takea holda the ropa, lady, only onea
hira.’’ The thought that I was a ‘‘mountaineer’’ gave me a bit more cour-
age and at last, after a climb of one hour and ten minutes, the edge of
the crater was under my feet. Even now my expectations of burning lava
and clouds of smoke were unrealized, for the only signs of heat were six
jets of steam, which I counted as I leaned over the edge. In a second the
‘bracing air made me forget all previous effort and I stood afraid but
entranced with my surroundings. There was nothing around to which we
might cling. At one side yawned the bottomless crater, stretching east one-
third mile, and on the other the steep slope of the cone which looked so
smooth and treacherous as we stood forty-two hundred feet abve the shin-
ing blue Neapolitan bay. Beyond the water the green islands of Capri and
Ischia ruggedly outlined the horizon. Here, at our feet, lay Pompeii and we
caught glimpses of its walls emerging from the long burial caused by this
very mountain. There hes Naples where men and women laugh and sing
and children romp and play, as doubtless did the men, women and children
of Pompeii and Herculaneum nearly nineteen hundred years ago. Our
meditations were stopped by the ery, ‘‘It is time to start,’’ and we turned
away with visions of beauty stored in soul and brain.
The trip down the cone was uneventful, but I could not leave the
mountain immediately and stopped at the inn near the Observatory for a
two-o’clock breakfast of figs, omelette and honey cakes, fit for the food of
those old gods who lived on that other Italian mountain and were wor-
shipped as real by the ancestors of mine host Vesuvius.
As I sat viewing the bright waters of the bay and the glowing colors
of the red-tiled houses of Naples, and turned from the brown cone to look
out upon the fertile Campania stretching away from the sea to far beyond
my view, I caught a glimpse of kinship between the people and the moun-
tain. I realized that the wonderful fertility of all this region is due to the
material thrown out by this mountain in its great convulsions, and I under-
stood why, in spite of their terror, the Neapolitans love their mountain. It
is a type of their own voleanie natures, full of warmth, great of depth,
capable of terrible deeds which, once committed, are soon forgotten, yet
generous, bountiful, loving, beautiful.
THE MOUNTAINEER 75
Mountaineers in the Olympics
By MARY BANKS
NTO the heart of the Olympics!
I wonder if it is possible to convey in words, to those who do not
know, what that means to one who has spent even a brief space of
time within the region. Certain it is that no words of mine can begin to por-
tray the beauty of it all. Since I could but fail in any attempt to describe
the country through which we passed, the real part, (for after all it is the
view to be had from the mountains, rather than the mere attainment of the
summits, which is the real part) of The Mountaineers’ trip into the Olympic
Mountains, will have to remain untold, and only the unimportant details
be chronicled.
Undaunted by the fact that every writer in referring to the Olympic
region always dwelt upon the impenetrability of the forests as the reason
for its never having been explored, The Mountaineers soon after organiza-
tion decided upon Mount Olympus as the goal of their first annual outing,
with the idea of giving the members an opportunity for original research
in a hitherto untouched field.
I should like to tell of the obstacles overcome in accomplishing this
idea, for it is a tale well worth the telling. Of the work of Asahel Curtis,
aided by W. Montelius Price and L. A. Nelson, and abetted by the Board
of Directors of the Club. How, the funds being utterly inadequate to defray
the necessary cost of trail-making, Port Angeles, a thriving sea-coast town
in the vicinity, was persuaded to undertake the cutting of a way through
some sixty miles of forest as a business proposition for itself; how the
exorbitant prices demanded by the packers proving prohibitive, the Club
purchased its own train, and other like incidents.
In justice to the Club I must tell how, when everything was finally in
readiness—provisions enough to last sixty-five people for many weeks safely
eached away at the foot of the mountains, full sixty miles from eivilization—
and when it lacked but a few days of the date set for the start, word came
that three men had hired a guide who was in a position to know where
the way had been eleared, had quietly made the ascent in advance of the
Club, and returning, had hastily published accounts of ‘‘The Ascent of
Olympus,’’ with no eredit given to the Mountaineers who had made the trip
possible.
Too much praise cannot be given those who managed the expedition.
Never, I am confident, did mountaineers have better or more elaborate meals
served them, and better-natured or finer cooks, with an almost uneanny
genius for making delicious pies, cakes and other delicacies without many of
the most necessary ingredients. When it is considered that tents, beyond
one small general awning. were out of the question, even for tre women, and
that with one small camp oven and a bon-fire, bread was baked every day
and meals, often consisting of six courses, or more, were served to from forty
to sixty-five persons, the even temper of the cooks will appear no small item.
Thanks are due Mr. W. F. Delabarre and many others of Port Angeles,
and also to Messrs William and Grant Humes, whose hospitality at their
camps, and whose courteous and generous imparting of knowledge of woods
and mountain lore, added much to the interest and pleasure of the trip.
{HE MOUNTAINEER
—
fop)
But to return to the actual start of The Mountaineers on July 24th,*
whose party of sixty-five counted amongst its number faculty members of
three universities, nearly a score of other instructors, a few scientists, with
medicine, the law and various other professions and trades represented as
well; but which was which was more than one could tell, for the khaki suits
in which so many were clad as to give almost the appearance of a uniform,
proved quite a disguise to rank. After several days in the woods I by chance
discovered that the man in the much-worn khaki suit was a well known auth-
or whom I had long wished to meet; that the man with the jolly laugh and
the ready wit, was, when at home, a most serious preacher of the gospel in
one of Seattle’s largest and most conservative churches. The round-faced,
mild-looking man proved an autocratic leader with an iron will, to which
men almost twice his size meekly yielded—for the time at least. The grave
professor of history proved to know more jokes and limericks than a dozen
ordinary mortals; the smooth shaven young fellow with city looks and
Ways was in reality a trapper spending his life in the woods; while the stal-
wart man, apparently an experienced mountaineer, proved to be a professor
of mental science in a prominent university. But enough of the people.
Of the trail pages might be written and much yet be left unsaid. I am
tempted to deseribe in detail every bit of the way; the trees, marvelous not
only in height but in peculiarities of growth; the canyons, the mountain
torrents with their magnificent water-falls; the evidences all about of wild
animals, yet our apparent safety; each night’s camp so utterly unlike
any other yet each so unutterably beautiful.
Many an amusing tale might be told of incidents on the trail, especially
of the ‘‘steerage’’ committee, appointed anew each day to steer the roast-
beef-to-be safely up and down the steep road and through innumerable
rivers and streams. The progress of that committee was somewhat in the
nature of a continuous performance, with new and unexpected features at
irregular intervals.
The numerous bridgeless river crossings also added variety and interest
to the program, though appreciation was sometimes wofully lacking in
the involuntary performers, amongst whom was one dignified judge who
had come from a distance to join the party, and who may be said to have
met his Waterloo while crossing the Godkin, resuming his march a wetter, if
not a wiser man.
One day allowed in camp for the preliminary settling, and the next, all,
save the Outing Committee (who have gone to reconnoitre for the Olympus
trip), may be seen wending their way over the nearest snow-field, en route
to the top of Noyes, led by Prof. W. D. Lyman, of Whitman college. Paus-
ing to admire the first snow-arch, another delay while a few enter the big
snow-eave, then a steady climb over the snow and we see the welcome
ereen of the Divide. which is soon reached. Here we get our first hint of
the view to be seen from the top. Then a stiff climb over rock, often but a
narrow ledge around some sharp corner, offering but scanty foothold. The
summit proves much farther than it looks, but such a view of peaks as one
catches long before the summit is reached, impells all but two to continue
*RFor the convenience of certain University men, whose lectures at the summer
session of the University of Washington prevented their leaving in July, a second
party of seventeen, under the leadership of the president of the Club, Henry Landes,
started ten days later, the others awaiting their arrival before making the ascent
of the main peak.
SUMMIT OF MOUNT SEATTLE.
Photo by Asahel Curtis. Copyrighted by Roman’s Photographic Co.
78 THE MOUNTAINEER
to the very top. Then the return—when the first steep snow slope reached
proves too great a temptation for our leader to resist, so calling to all to
follow, but under no circumstances to let go their alpine stocks, he suddenly
disappears down the steep incline; little suspecting to how many this is in
the nature of a first performance, until he reaches a stretch of rock, stops,
and looks behind him. Such a sight as meets his gaze beggars description !
I have coasted down many a mountain side with far larger parties, hailing
from Boston to Los Angeles, but never have I dreamed of the variety of ways
it might be done until I saw those thirty-nine coming down. Not only were
they coming down thirty-nine different ways, but some seemed to be coming
down all thirty-nine ways at onece—head first, feet first, sidewise, some a
whirling tangle of arms, legs and alpine stocks, snow flying; others clutch-
ing vainly at the air in a futile effort to retard their lightning progress.
Dangerous? Possibly, but so funny that when I had somewhat recovered
from laughing I was really alarmed lest the grave professor would collapse
from merriment, and it was with difficulty that those below overcame their
laughter in time to stop the flying progress of the others ere they reached
the rocks.
But the story was too good to keep from our leader, with the result
that the next day all were invited, (and our leader’s invitations were those
of a ezar), to go with him to a near-by snow slope, where all the inexperi-
enced were initiated into the many uses of alpine stock, the cutting of ice-
steps, ete.
The next day, August Ist, about half of those in camp made the trip
to the Queets Valley, twelve of them continuing on to the glacier and up
to the summit of Mount Queets; the only party, so far as known, to make
the ascent from the west side. After climbing to the extreme top of the
rocky pinnacle and leaving the usual records, the descent was made down
the opposite side of the mountain.
On Saturday, August 3rd, those who had not gone up Mount Queets
on the first trip were taken up the east side by Mr. Asahel Curtis, who had
also guided the previous party, this making his fourth ascent to the summit ;
he and Mr. W. M. Price having made the first known ascent of the mountain
earlier in the season.
The following day being the Sabbath, no official trips were made, though
several small parties stole away from the services, one party of three going
to the top of Mount Seattle, and another of six up Mount Barnes; both leav-
ing the usual records on the summits, and all returning in time for the even-
ing services around the camp-fire, which were conducted by Rev. Van Horn
—a most beautiful and impressive service and one long to be remembered.
The spirit of the mountains seemed to have impressed all with their solemn-
ity and majesty, as they sat about the camp fire, surrounded by the snowy
peaks, which shone out of the surrounding darkness; and it was with a feel-
ing of reverence that all finally wended their way silently to their beds
beneath the stars.
Bright and early Monday morning, for reveille was always sounded at
4:30 a. m., or earlier, the Mountaineers shouldered their blankets and ra-
tions for their first two days’ trip up the mountains, intending to conquer
Mounts Christy, Seattle and Cougar Peak before returning to camp. But
the ‘‘schemes 0’ men gang aft a-gley’’ and despite the efforts of the leader
to hasten the slower walkers, it was late ere Lakes Mary and Martha were
passed and the foot of Christy reached. If the mountain was to be climbed
that day as planned, it would have to be at race horse speed, and all but
THE MOUNTAINEER
the strongest were urged not to make the attempt. The warning was un-
heeded by many, however, and the start was made on the run. After sev-
eral delays were caused by one whose ambition was greater than her
strength, the girls agreed to drop out and permit the men to go on alone.
Eleven men and one woman continued to the top at a speed probably never
exceeded in making an ascent; all returning to the main party more or less
exhausted, though none admitting it.
Awakening the next morning in a chilly gloom which foreboded a storm,
the march toward Seattle was resumed, only to encounter a heavy rain
which steadily became heavier, obscuring the way and making footing so
slippery and precarious that the attempt to climb Seattle, much less Cougar
Peak, was voted out of the question. Drenched to the skin, by noon all
were thoroughly chilled, and the water-soaked blankets heavy to carry. But
the gloomier the outlook the cheerier the spirit evinced, and camp was finally
entered in the midst of cheers, despite the fact that the two days’ tramp
meant for many not the conquest of a single peak. A candy pull was soon
started to cheer up the wet spirits, but it must be confessed that many slept
wet that night and continued so next day as well. Indeed, the Landes party
which arrived about noon was no wetter, having enjoyed good weather
until but a few miles below permanent camp.
July 8th dawned clear and bright and was spent as a drying out day by
all but a few who made the ascent of Mount Meany. Only two more days
were left before the first comers must return homeward, so although the
ninth dawned gloomy and foggy, thirty-seven started bravely for the two
days’ tramp to the summit of Mount Olympus; each individual, however
slight, laden with his or her blankets and ten pounds of provisions. The
various trips up Olympus are chronicled elsewhere, so it remains for me
merely to outline the return to camp and from thence homeward, leaving
the events occurring after our departure to be told by some one fortunate
enough to be among the last to leave the scene of the Mountaineers’ six-
weeks’ outing.
But before we retrace our steps I cannot refrain from a brief mention
of our camp at the base of Olympus, now known to us as Hospital Camp, be-
cause of the accident to Miss Bailey ; but even this association cannot obliter-
ate from memory that wonderful canyon, unexpectedly discovered on the
eve of our arrival, while in quest of a band of elk. A canyon whose straight
walls grew steeper and steeper, extending down to unknown depths, until a
glance over the edge made one grow dizzy; while the river, which, but a
short distance before, roared beside us, now sounded but an echo at the bot-
tom of the canyon far below us.
Then, too, the glaciers, so temptingly near our camp—how we longed
to explore them. Lacking the magnitude of the Muir and Davidson glaciers
in Alaska, and the peculiar individuality of the various glaciers of Mt.
Rainier, they yet have a charm which makes one resolve to know them
some day, even as one knows those others.
But the order to return is given, so reluctantly we leave, rejoining those
at the main camp about sundown of the same day as our attempted ascent
of Olympus. The next morning we start on our four days’ tramp toward
home, reaching Port Angeles August 14 and leaving on the steamer Whatcom
just as twilight darkens into night. At dawn of the following day we are
in Seattle—and the Mountaineers’ first annual outing—probably the most
wonderful outing ever taken by any mountain-climbing club—is a thing of
the past.
80 THE MOUNTAINEER
Olympic Outing
List of members of The Mountaineers who went on First
Annual Outing
Archer, A. W.
Bailey, Winona
Banks, Mary
Baptie, H. May
belt, HeC:
Belt,. Mrs. EC.
Best, John A. Jr.
Bigelow, Alida J.
Blake, J. Fred
Brown, Sydney
Casey, Alice M.
Childe, Eugene A.
Chittenden, Eleanor Mary
Craven, A. J., Bellingham
Curtis, Asahel
Curtis, Mrs. Florence
Eaton, Dr. Cora Smith
Epler, Frank
Flett, Prof. J. B., Tacoma
Frye, Prof. Thecdore C.
Gleason, Helen R.
Hanna, Ina M.
Hannaman, Geo. L., Bremerton
Howard, Anna
Howard, Grace
Hubert, Anna
Humes, Grant
Jones, Nancy Emerson
Kaiser, George
Ketcham, Florence
Kracht, Fred G.
Kracht, Louse
Kracht, Ida
Krows, Melvin
Landes, Prof. Henry
Landes, Prof. Charles, Tacoma
Leckenby, Mollie E.
Light, de P:
Lyman, Prof. W. D., Walla Walla
McCarney, Margaret
MeDaniels, Metta
McGregor, P. M.
Morril, Ormond
Nelson, L. A.
Nettleton, Lulie
Niedergesaess, Gertrude
Plumb; Prot. We:
Price, W. Montelius
Richards, E. E.
Southard, F. S.
Stevens, Dr. B. R.
Stevens, Dr. E. F.
Stevens, Mrs. Vesta E.
Stevens, Prof. H. C.
Strang, Hattie A.
Streator, Gertrude Inez
Stuff, Mrs. Josephine
Treadeau, Joseph
Van Horn, Rev i. es
Van Horn, Robert
Webster, E. B., Port Angeles
Weaver, Prof. C. E., Berkeley
Wilson, W. E., Eilensbure
Wright, Wm. H.
7 Cal.
THE MOUNTAINEER 81
Record of Ascents to the Summits of Peaks
of the Olympic Range, Made by Mem-
bers of the Mountaineers in 1907
MOUNT CHRISTIE.
First Ascent, August 5th, 1907.
Mr. Asahel Curtis Mr. J. P. Light
Mr. Grant W. Humes Mr. Eugene A. Childe
Mr. Geo. L. Hannaman Mr. Fred J. Blake
Mr. John A. Rest Mr. Melvin A. Krows
Mr. P. M. McGregor Mr. Frank Epler
Nir BF: G. “Kraeht Miss Ida Kracht.
Miss Kracht is the first and only woman, so far as known, who has
climbed Mt. Christie.
Second Ascent, August 19th, 1907.
Prof. Henry Landes Mr. Chas Landes
MT. MEANY.
First Ascent, August 8th, 1907.
Mr. Asahel Curtis Mr. L. A. Nelson
Mr. P. M. MeGregor
Second Ascent, August 18th, 1907.
Prof. Henry Landes Mr. Chas. Landes
MT. NOYES.
First Ascent, May 30th, 1907.
Mr. Asahel Curtis Mr. Grant W. Humes
Second Ascent, July 30th, 1907.
Prof. W. D. Lyman, leader
Company A. Company B.
Rev. F. J. Van Horn, Capt. Mr. Krows, Capt.
Robert Van Horn Miss Banks
Mrs. Stevens Dr. B. R. Stevens
Dr. Stevens Mr. Tredeau
Miss Jones Miss Grace Howard
Miss MeDaniels Mr. Brown
Mr. Hannaman Miss Anna Howard
Miss Bigelow Mr. Kracht
Miss Bailey Miss Ketchum
Mr. Epler
82 THE MOUNTAINEER
MOUNT NOYES—Continued
Company C. ,
Mr. Light, Capt.
Miss Strang
Miss Nettleton
Mr. Child
Mrs. Curtis
Mr. McGregor
Miss Streator
Miss Leckenby
Mrs. Belt
Mr. Belt
Mr. Webster
Company E.
Miss Chittenden
Company D.
Judge Craven, Capt.
Miss Ida Kracht
Mr. Plumb
Louise Kracht
Mr. Kaiser
Miss Casey
Mr. Southern
Miss Baptie
Mr. Blake
Dr. Eaton
THE MOUNTAINEER 83
Mount Olympus
WEST PEAK.
IRST ascent of the west and highest peak, altitude 8,250 feet, by anaroid
reading of The Mountaineers, August 13th, 1907.
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Dereae MOnGelige PTGS tot) st iay camels cs peepee ts pea tes pee aunts x Seattle
Bei a se MERIC ILC ©.\ ceva. 5 asians gure alee ty hate atone eae ata en eo peng we oe On ae Seattle
MEP AC OU EME GIGI Nt Shs tty Soe nog Clr ae A ie ose Soe fers Seattle
Miss Hubert was the first woman to climb Mount Olympus, and the
only one to climb West Peak.
The party left in the record box the following articles: United States
flag, Mountaineers’ badge, jack-knife, red and blue ribbon, purple string,
ten cent piece, five cent piece, bread ticket, safety pin, a calk, hair pin, two
matches and business card of A. W. Archer, containing account of The
Mountaineers first attempt to climb Mount Olympus.
EAST PEAK.
First Ascent August 12,
The first party of The Mountaineers to reach the summit of Mount
Olympus.
Mr. John A. Best, Jr., Mr. L.A. Nelson,
Prof. H. C. Stevens.
Second Ascent, August 15.
Dr. Cora Smith Eaton, first and only woman who has climbed this peak.
Mr. L. A. Nelson.
The following record was left on the summit: ‘‘Record of ascent of
Kast Peak or Sphinx Head, of Mt. Olympus, on August 12, 1907, by a party
of ‘Mountaineers’ from ‘Hospital Camp’ in Queets Valley, in four hours and
five minutes, by way of Humes and Hoh Glaciers.
‘“An old paper, supposed to be from Shelton, from extracts therein,
found in eairn. Same is inelosed with this record.
*‘L. A. Nelson, Seattle. John A. Best, Jr., Seattle. H.C. Stevens, Seattle.
‘“We salute the brave pioneers who climbed in 1899.’’
In the ascent of August 15, by Mr. Nelson and Dr. Eaton, it was de-
cided that the date of the Shelton newspaper was August 12, 1899. exactly
eight years to a day from the day it was found by Mr. Nelson’s party,
August 12, 1907. This conelusion is based upon the fact that there is an
administrator’s notice signed Frank D. Nash, with the dates under it, of
publication—‘‘ July 15, 22, 29, Aug. 5, 12, 19.’’ And there is notice of reso-
lutions on the death of Robert Brand, ‘‘at a regular meeting of the Tenino
Lodge No. 38 A. O. U. W.’’, on August 7. The paper therefore must have
been printed later than August 7 and the natural inference would be that
it was the issue of August 12,
bd THE MOUNTAINEER
Mount Olympus, Continued
MIDDLE PEAK.
First Ascent, August 13th, 1907.
Prof. Henry Landes, Seattle Mr. F. H. Plumb, Seattle
Miss Anna Hubert, Seattle Mr. Chas. Landes, Seattle
Prof. John B. Flett, Seattle. Mr. W. Montelius Price, Seattle
Mr. A. W. Archer, Seattle Mr. L. A. Nelson, Seattle
Prof. Theodore C. Frye, Seattle Mr. Earl E. Richards, Seattle
Prof. C. E. Weaver, Berkeley, Cal.
Second Ascent, August 15th, 1907.
Cora Smith Eaton, M. D., second woman to reach the summit of
Middle Peak.
Mr. L. A. Nelson (third ascent in four days).
List of party attempting the ascent of Mount Olympus, August 10,
1907. Severe snow storm prevented the party from reaching he summit:
General Staff.
Asahel Curtis
L. A. Nelson
Henry Landes
Company A.
Geo. L. Hannaman, Captain
Mary Banks
H. C. Stevens
Alida J. Bigelow
Sydney Brown
Anna Hubert
KH. Plimb
Mollie E. Leckenby
Dr. Weaver
Anna Howard
Frank Epler, Lieut. -
Company B.
P. M. MeGregor, Captain
Nancy E. Jones
Eugene hilde
Metta MeDaniels
Chas. Landes
Ina M. Hanna
BY So Kracht
Mrs. Asahel Curtis
Robert Carr
Dr. E. F. Stevens, Lieut.
Grant Humes
F. Bowman
Company C.
John A. Best, Jr., Captain
Lule Nettleton
Ormond Morrill
Gertrude Niedergesaess
A. W. Archer
H. May Baptie
Wm. G. Wright
Winona Bailey
Judge A. J. Craven
J. P. Light, Lieut.
Company D.
Gertrude Krows, Captain
Prof. W. D. Lyman
Hattie A. Strang
Robert Van Horn
Grace Howard
Rev. Van Horn
Margaret MeCarney
E. E. Richards,
J: B- Blake, hieut.) and
rear guard
THE MOUNTAINEER 89
Mount Queets
First Ascent (East Side), May 27th, 1907.
Asahel Curtis
Mr. Grant W. Humes
Mr. W. Montelius Price
Second Ascent (East Side), May 29th, 1907.
- Mr. Grant W. Humes
Mr. Asahel Curtis
Third Ascent (First Ascent Made from the West), Avgust 1st, 1907.
Mr. Asahel Curtis, Leader
Miss Mary Banks
Mr. Geo. L. Hannaman
Mr. J. P. Light
Mr. John A. Best, Jr.
Mr. F. H. Plumb
Mr. H. C. Belt
Miss Winona Bailey
Miss Alida J. Bigelow
Miss Ida Kracht °
Mr. Fred G. Kracht
Mr. P. M. MeGregor
Miss Banks was the first woman to stand on the summit of Mt. Queets.
Fourth Ascent (The Third Ascent From the Kast), August 3rd, 1907.
Mr. Asahel Curtis, Leader
Company A.
Mr. L. A. Nelson, Captain
Mr. Eugene A. Childe
Miss Naney Emerson Jones
Mr. Franklin Epler
Miss Moihe E. Leekenby
Mr. Melvin A. Krows
Mrs. Asahel Curtis -
Mr. J. P. Light
Miss Florence Ketcham
Dr. E. F. Stevens
Company B.
Mr. Geo. L. Hannaman, Captain
Miss H. May Baptie
Mr. F. J. Van Horn
Mr. Robert Van Horn
Miss Gertrude Inez Streator
Dr. Cora Smith Eaton
Mr. E. B. Webster
Miss Alice J. Casey
Mr. J. Fred Blake
Company C.
Mr. Grant Humes, Captain
Miss Grace Howard
Judge A. J. Craven
Miss Anna Howard
Mr. F. 8S. Southard
Miss Metta MeDaniels
Prof. W. D. Lyman
MeSH C) Belt
Mrs. H. C. Belt
Miss Leckenby only girl to reach southern peak of Queets. Shaky rock
proved climbing unsafe, and no more were allowed to climb that pinnacle.
Fifth Ascent, August 18th, 1907.
Mr. Henry Landes
Mr. Chas. Landes
Mount Seattle
First Ascent, August 4th, 1907.
Asahel Curtis
Mr. L. A. Nelson
Mr. Grant W. Humes
Second Ascent, August 15th, 1907.
Miss Margaret MeCarney
Miss Gertrude Niedergesaess
Mr. Chas. Landes
Mr. Chas. E. Weaver
Prof, Henry Landes
Mr. W. Montelius Price
Mr. A. W. Archer
Miss Ina M. Hanna
Mr. Leslie R. Corbett
Ova C. Purnell
86 THE MOUNTAINEER
MOUNT SEATTLE—Continued.
Third Ascent August 19th, 1907.
Dr. Cora Smith Eaton Mr. E. W. Humes
Cougar Peak of Mount Seattle
First Ascent, August 4th, 1907.
Mr. L. A. Nelson Mr. Grant W. Humes
Mr. Asahel Curtis
Second Ascent, August 11, 1907.
W. M. Price
Third Ascent, August 15th, 1907.
Prof. Henry Landes Mr. Chas. Landes
Fourth Ascent, August 19th, 1907.
Dr. Cora Smith Eaton, M. D. Mr. W. E. Humes.
Dr. Eaton was the first woman to climb Cougar Peak.
Mount Barnes
First Ascent, August 4th, 1907.
Mr. P. M. MeGregor Mr. Geo. L. Hannaman
Miss Lulu Nettleton Miss Alida J. Bigelow
Mr. F. H. Plumb
Record Found on the Pass Between the
Elwha and the Queets
OPY of record found on the pass betweenthe Elwha and the Queets,
(CJ on Aug. 12, 1907, by J. B. Flett and party, consisting of himself, T. C.
Frye and F. H. Plumb. The record was in a one-pound Royal Baking
Powder ean, lying on a knoll on the pass. It was written on page 255 of a
magazine, ‘‘Travel, Adventure and Sport,’’ no date nor year to be found,
on the margin of an article on Japanese wrestling, the theme seeming to be
athletics as a means of defense. Written in a good business hand was the
following: ‘‘A. M. Godfrey, D. W. Starrett, W. Daggett, on our way to the
Pacific from Port Townsend by Dungeness over Docewallups and Elwha
Valleys.—Aug. 25, 1894.’’
On opposite margin was written: ‘“H. B. Herrick, Aug. 15, 1900.’’
Our party of Mountaineers added: ‘‘J. B. Flett, T. C. Frye, F. H. Plumb,
three Mountaineers on their way to climb Mt. Olympus, Aug. 12, 1907.’’
On Aug. 17, 1907, when the Hospital Detail crossed the pass on their
way with Miss Bailey from Marmot Rock Hospital Camp to the permanent
camp in the Elwha, Mr. Plumb produced the can from under the trunks of
two crooked dead firs; and Dr. Eaton copied the record. There were old
square blazes on trees on the pass and in the Queets Valley, which were
taken to be the work of this party in 1894, the blazes seeming to be about
that old,
a
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Tuer MounTAINEER
VoL. I No. 4
NOVEMBER, 1908
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
1908
THE MOUNTAINEER
Vor. I SreattLe, WasHinecton, NovemBer, 1908 No. 4
‘CONTENTS
é J PAGE
The Mountains Wy eh Ee sie Aha as John MUtr veces. . Frontispiece
With the Mountaineers on Mount Baker............:0esee0s
My a aenan ute aenar c sien te: LLC IV CLE CLOIE Ce
Mount Baker .. Alice Harriman (Poem) 96
The Mountaineers’ ‘First Roe of Mount Baker .......
ete Paes Ace Ran Nts Asahel Ce Rls aeark eer Oy
First Aid in the Mountains ..cs. sc cons dee ca Goede bewepelenadon
Be CAP IRON 7 Ci cS Eaton 100
A Mountain ae a PATRI eS AS Hele he WAS hat Nae fh
SES aera OP laa A fe LF, Wallen’, ew HRSG EN 41,
The Seed Plants, Ferns, and Fern Allies, of the Higher |
a of the Olympic Mountains ..-... -. oR Pet hot
Uh re Sa ee ee Sn Cag Gia PB PLELE tect or ML Se
Thallophytes and Bryophytes from the ye, Moun-
tains .. ih Reo pice. EY FYE re Seyi ue acta Dy Ley a
Third sania Ontan ae the Mountaineers .......-...-...+- 138
sora Walks O08 asia. ic Sal cuseneiah nat, wae ah tae Go fue 140
Altitudes of Mountain Peaks and Passed of Washington.. 141
Additions to The Bibliography of The Mountains of Wash-
AS Ta PENA oat RG Reale mre ay Alida J. Bigelow ........... 147
ILLUSTRATIONS
Mount Baker from Park Creek.. - PLatEe 25
Climbing a Steep Ice Slope, ndciler Glacier SUPiad 26
Mount Baker from The Mountaineers Temporary.
Canip 1008's ceec cae ose cnrayens au e gtewme cpemecnegaay PLate Q7
Snow Cornice to Southeast of Summit of Mount ar
Bake er or Soochow a reds Sod bak dee en Sees alas eerste PLATE 28 -
Xerophyllum tenax, commonly called Indian Basket
BLASS sins eddy sid see eine cwpelnveeseisennaesye Keon iene ess PLATE 29
Cassiope mertensiana, iis white heather common to.
the Cascades and. Olympics......... ...+s.se.eee-e- Prats 30
Campanula piperi, a rare harebell ....-.....--.....-+:: PLaTE 31 |
Pulsatilla occidentale, the common mountain anem-
ORO Giese coh whee Mea OU Aas Bauer ee Cai PuaTE 32
Phlox diffusa, mountain phlox growing in high alti-
EGER or eee ee eeelcelana ate hate ciehe e/a tune eas Sg Ri Pas . Prats 33
Mount Rainier from Crater Lake .. LW een dar SP Are oe
Faye Peak, in Spring Park, near Mont Rainiee:- .. Prats 35
Address all communications to’
JOHN R. BEST, Jr., Bremerton, WasH. |
45 Se
oS ee
iby 1 ti
¥
i)
vt
Wi :
ah relent 6% A tile Aspe
py ey voor’ * end? he
he
limb the mountains and
(CT get their good tidings.
Nature's peace will flow into
you as sunshine flows into
trees. Ohe winds will blow
their oun freshness into pou,
and the storms their energy,
while cares will drop off like
autumn leaves. [John Muir
THE MOUNTAINEER
PuBLIsHED For MremBers y AnnvaL Duss, $3.00
THE OBJECTS AND PURPOSES
OF THE CLUB ARE:
To explore the mountains, forests and water
courses of the Pacific Northwest, and to gather
into permanent form the history and traditions
of this region; to preserve, by protective legis-
lation or otherwise, the natural beauty of the
Northwest coast of America; to make frequent
or periodical expeditions into these regions in
fulfillment of the above purposes. Finally, and
above all, to encourage and promote the spirit
of good fellowship and comradery among the
lovers of out-door life in the West.
BOARD OF DIRECTORS
For THE Yrar 1908-1909
ROR HDMOND GS oO GRAN SOY ee ce cia see cae soak Cua AMO) President
University of Washington, Seattle
Minti RANKY S! SOUTHARD ceccnce ca eciian declareccuetacs Vice-President
55 Haller Building, Seattle
Nine CHART ESY MIAH IVAR RRs ee ee MG) YONA ant Sean eZ Secretary
522 Pioneer Building, Seattle
DR PEC SREVENS i islns costo ae eee ee eee warns atcha tend Treasurer
1505 Madison Street, Seattle
NE TSS ET NEEL GING sessile eae eae a altar cloaciaus sielamoe Historian
1806 Eighth Avenue West, Seattle
Ma) Asari, Contig 66.3 2ce/sees 2 627 Colman Building, Seattle
Pea PE REREE |S oie lov iuueasaee Tacoma High School, Tacoma
Reve Bee) Var POR si. 3es ssateinc 923 James Street, Seattle
ASIN RESON eve edindiackansqes 522 New York Block, Seattle
VOHN A) BEST UIRD Venn svanics esl babranuns oe Bremerton, Washington
Miss Auipa J. Bieetow.----1139 Eighteenth Ave. N., Seattle
Ps a 2 CRAVEN, 1120 Garden Street, Bellingham, Washington
LIBRARY
NEW YORK
BOTANICAL
G v2 KUL GN °
COMMITTEES
Outing Committee
Asahel Curtis
L. A. Nelson
Charles M. Farrer
Publication Committee
Miss Lulie Nettleton
House Committee
Prof. Henry Landes
Mrs. Vesta E. Stevens
Dr. E. W. Young
Program Committtee
H. C. Belt
E. A. Childs Geo. E. Wright
Miss Mary Banks Miss Hattie A. Strang
DIRECTORS
1907-1908
Prof. Henry Landes, President, 4503 Brooklyn Avenue, Seattle
Rev. F. J. Van Horn, Vice-President, 923 James Street, Seatile
John A. Best, Jr., Secretary, 1217 Alaska Building, Seattle
Dr. E. F. Stevens, Treasurer, 1505 E. Madison Street, Seattle
Miss Lulie Nettleton, Historian, 502 West Highland Drive, Seattle
Asahel Curtis, 627 Colman Building, Seattle
L. A. Nelson, 522 New York Block, Seattle
Miss Alida J. Bigelow, 1139 Eighteenth Avenue North, Seattle
Frank S. Southard, 55 Haller Building, Seattle
The Mountaineer, Vol. I. Plate 25
MOUNT BAKER FROM PARK CREEK
Nas
. om '
'
7 T
190
THE MOUNTAINEER
Vou. I SeaTTLE, WasHineton, NoveMBeER, 1908. No. 4
WITH THE MOUNTAINEERS ON MT. BAKER.
LuLige NETTLETON, Historian.
“Ho for Mt. Baker!” was the slogan sounding in
the hearts of a band of Mountaineers, gathered at the
Great Northern station on the afternoon of July 18,
1908.
A brave little army we were, half a hundred strong,
bristling with alpenstocks, laden with knapsacks and
other paraphernalia necessary for a strenuous two weeks
in mountaineering.
We were embarking upon a most ambitious under-
taking, for our objective point Mt. Baker, or Kulshan
the Great White Watcher of Indian lore, had for years,
wrapped its robe of clouds about its majestic head and
defied the attempts of climbing clubs to scale its summit.
Its difficulty of approach, the number and depth of its
crevasses, its treacherous sliding rock, and all convened
to discourage ascents.
In May of 1908 the club had sent out the very
capable Outing Committee, consisting of Asahel Curtis,
L. A. Nelson and John A. Best, Jr., to reconnoiter. They
spent ten days in the Baker country, locating the trail,
selecting the camp sites, and negotiating for pack
animals. They found that by following the old Jo Moro-
vitz trail, the party could easily be taken to Boulder
Creek, but there the trail ended. Seven miles of new
trail must be built. This was done by Mr. L. A. Nelson,
assisted by Mr. Frank Epler.
LIBRARY
NEW YORK
BOTANICAL
GARDEN.
88 The Mountaineer
Therefore, having shifted all responsibility for lug-
gage, tickets, etc., upon the shoulders of the Outing
Committee, the merry company started on this. memor-
able trip absolutely care free.
A short railway journey ended at the town of
Baker at 9:30 p. m. Our first temporary camp lay two
miles beyond, over a muddy road. It was a very dark
night and we literally plunged into inky blackness, punc-
tuated by improvised lanterns, called “bugs,” constructed
of tin cans and candles. In spite of the mud and dark-
ness, a very cheerful company trudged on.
“Why are the people up in front shouting?” we
query. In a moment we are shouting too, for a turn
in the road brings to our dazzled eyes a glorious camp
fire, and good things to eat set out most invitingly, and
presiding over all His Royal Highness Our Chef, Mr.
Carr.
With a lusty cheer the advancing army surrounded
the camp and took possession in the name of “The
Mountaineers.”
After the invaders had put to rout a host of hot
doughnuts, biscuits, a large supply of rice and other
good things, we unpacked our dunnage bags. Perhaps
a newcomer looked a little anxiously at the grassy
meadow that was to be our sleeping quarters. I sus-
pect they were questioning the charm of such a
spacious boudoir. However, being very sportsmanlike,
nothing was said, and in a short time we were all
as snug as dolls in Christmas stockings, and no sound
was heard but the occasional snapping of the waning
camp fire.
At dawn the bugle call aroused us and in two
hours breakfast was eaten, dunnage bags packed ready
for the pack train.
Our pack train consisted of thirty-two sturdy, well
trained little beasts and we were indebted to the Stand-
ard Reduction and Development Company for them.
The Mountaineer 89
We spent a charming day in forest, following in a
general way the course of the Baker River for fourteen
miles.
However, there was a company of three who found
this day no time for dreaming. This was the “steering
committee.” What is that? Let me explain. Follow-
ing the precedent of the previous year we “took the
beef up on the hoof.” Thus three prominent people, a
strong man, a charming lady, and the secretary, were
chosen to guide this valuable part of the commissary.
To guide, did I say? The animal made an excellent
guide himself and took the whole committee at his own
sweet will. It has been stated that the chairman’s feet
touched the ground three times during the first mile.
Eye witnesses deny this. The chairman himself de-
clined to be interviewed.
Many were the streams to be crossed—first Bear
Creek, then came Sulphur, Rocky Creek, and Big Sandy,
then Little Sandy. One more stream after the latter and
we have reached the site selected for actual camp. Joy-
ously we cast aside alpenstocks and threw ourselves
down. to await the pack train.
We had time to observe this famous Boulder Creek.
It certainly was well named, for in its bed lie countless
boulders brought down by the stream. Listening, we
heard their rumbling and grumbling as they rolled
about, protesting against the rough treatment the
tyrant stream had showed them. It was a sulphurous
stream, but we found it cooling, and soon had selected
our sleeping places beside its banks. Hardly had the
hungry company staked their claims when we began to
build air castles, filled with the delicious viands that Carr
would prepare when he arrived.
Alas, for dreams! A messenger arrived with the
word that an accident on the trail had delayed the
pack train and they could not get beyond Big Sandy.
Our air castles with their banquet halls came crashing
90 The Mountaineer
down. What did we do? What would any good
mountaineer do? We gathered our belongings and
philosophically walked back to Big Sandy. When the
animals did arrive, we had a meal far superior to that
of our dreamings—for it was a reality.
The next day military formation was necessary.
Boulder Creek was to be crossed, and a most treacherous
stream it is. Fed from Boulder Glacier on Mt. Baker,
it must be crossed in the early morning, because the
mid-day sun melts the snows so rapidly that the stream
reaches formidable proportions later in the day.
The men cut down trees and over them we ad-
vanced. Now, crossing a turbulent stream with only an
uncertain log for a bridge is decidedly interesting.
Kind hands are always ready to help, but you decline
them and bravely start alone. How the log topples.
Your heart beats to suffocation and the water cries
“Come in! Come in! Come in!” A score of cameras
leveled at one are disconcerting, too. But in some way
you are over safely. Thus the whole company crossed,
although great interest was manifested in the crossing of
a popular jurist who, in a previous outing, had quite ex-
tinguished himself in the waters of a certain Olympic
stream.
Here the company enter the United States For-
est Reserve. From this point we followed our own
trail, planned and constructed by members of the club
and financed from “Mountaineer” coffers. This trail is
so clearly defined and cleverly planned, a minimum of
grade is lost in the ascent. This continued five miles to
an altitude of thirty-five hundred feet, and later two
more miles were added, taking it to timber line. By its
construction, the Mountaineers have opened up the south-
east side of the mountain and made it so accessible that
hereafter the ascent of Mt. Baker will be a comparatively
easy matter.
At the end of the trail we found ourselves in a maze
of huckleberry bushes. Here our camp was to be
The Mountaineer 91
pitched. Though the strong men valiantly attacked the
wiry underbrush with hatchets, and produced a fairly
comfortable camp, it was not a satisfactory situation.
Our Outing Committee were not the men to let well
enough alone, and at dawn scouts were out looking for
a better site for permanent camp. They found an ideal
spot in a meadow a mile beyond, andarmed with knives
and axes the men bent to the task of cutting a trail to
the meadow. It seemed almost incredible, but in thirty
minutes the trail was complete.
Our horses had been sent back for more supplies,
and the members of the party trudged back and forth
between the old camp and the new, moving baggage and
commissary. Any weariness faded in the beauty of the
scene of this, our permanent camp. It was a charming
alpine pasture bordered by a palisade of pines. No
decorated walls of a palace could equal the setting of
our new home.
Greater than all else, directly before us, in stu-
pendous grandeur, rose the magnificent heights of Mt.
Baker, our destination and our inspiration.
Settled in the new camp, our energetic leader mar-
shalled the company for a practice trip. Three hours
were spent in practice in the snow and ice work. In
short, Prof. Curtis conducted a class in mountaineering.
Special attention was given to manipulation of alpen-
stocks and use of feet on icy slopes. The class was evi-
dently a great success, for the party returned radiant and
exhilarated, but with the appetites of ravening wolves.
On Thursday morning a longer trip was scheduled.
Preparations were elaborately made—particularly with
grease paint to prevent sunburn. One moment and we
are in civilized company. Then, Presto, Change! Are
these the same people? No, these are veritable car-
toons of men, black-face artists and human totem poles.
“Painted like the sky of morning, wildly glaring at each
other.”
92 The Mountaineer
At half past seven, accoutered as for the great
climb, with thirty-eight in line and four in the general
staff, we started for the mountain. Continual climbing,
sometimes over a 45 degree slope, brought us to an alti-
tude of 6000 feet by noon. A halt was called near a
great ice gorge. Here we saw magnificent ice sculp-
tures. High turrets and spires arose from the masses
of clear ice, shaded from deepest indigo to the most deli-
cate turquoise. Standing in the midst was a magnificent
pillar of ice, symmetrical and perfect as though fash-
ioned by the cunning hand of a master. Lack of time
prevented the whole party from making the descent into
the gorge, but exclamations of wonder, from those who
did, showed that only greater wonders were revealed by
a more intimate acquaintance.
The bugle sounded retreat, and we slowly descended
but reaching a long slope, with no crevasses ahead, the
order came to coast. With shouts of glee the women
entered the sport with the gusto of children. Clergy-
men joined them; the doctors, sure of plenty of adhesive
plaster in camp, sailed gayly down the slope, and the
lawyers broke every law in legal writ concerning “speed
limits.”
Our next attack was upon Boulder Glacier, which
proved ‘‘a foeman worthy of our steel.” The walking
was so difficult, the ice being covered with pulverized
rock, that many slips and ignominious falls resulted.
(In fact, an observer of one of these complicated falls
has immortalized the incident in verse.)
On the morning of July 24, we awakened to find
our beautiful world of blue and green and white
changed to an ugly gray, our mountain entirely invisible,
and a drizzle of rain falling. In the words of Dr.
Eaton: “Blessed was he who had brought a poncho
into the wilderness, for he was the only one to sleep
dry.”” The unprotected ones gathered their damp pos-
sessions and fled to the tents. Fires were built, and
The Mountaineer 93
instead of rain making a gloomy day, the spirits of good
Mountaineers seemed quite stimulated. With an
amateur phrenologist, a palmist, a whist party, and a
masquerade, the two days passed rapidly.
The rainy time would not be complete without the
mention of the only incident even approaching a tragedy,
on the whole trip. The setting for this tragedy must be a
gloomy scene. Let the orchestra play pianissamo. Picture a
background of dark trees, a tiny white tent in the fore-
ground, dark clouds overhead, and—silence. Suddenly
the startled scream of a woman burst upon the air.
“Wild cat! Wild cat! Carr! Carr!’ Again and again
came the cry of anguish. For a terror-stricken moment
all were dumb. Then from headquarters Mr. Secretary
was ordered to unpack his gun from his dunnage bag,
his cartridges from another, and carry them to Mr.
Crack Shot. The latter was to pursue the marauder.
But Mr. Crack Shot was not impressed with the dan-
ger, and in time the camp calmly went to sleep again.
I suspect a certain old father squirrel on these win-
ter evenings, gathers his little ones around his knees and
proudly tells the story of that summer evening, when
he was mistaken for a wild cat.
A certain little lady still hears of the time when she
forgot her husband’s name in her terror, and called
upon the cook to protect her.
Rainy days passed and the sun came out, and a
cloudless sky promised a fair tomorrow. All prepara-
tions were made for the great ascent, and, while all
arrangements were as perfect as humanly possible, a
clear night was followed by a cloudy morning. Though
the company reached an altitude of 8,500 feet, they
could not go further on account of the inclemency of
the weather.
Time was taken for a side trip to Park Creek
Glacier, where we could catch glimpses of the old
Mazama Camp, Coleman Peak and Mazama Dome.
94 The Mountaineer
Rain seemed imminent, so retreating to permanent
camp, we waited for clear weather. During this time
the Easton party arrived, having come across the moun-
tain from Bellingham and endured intense sufferings.
On the afternoon of the second day the weather
cleared, and we started for the mountain, each carrying
his sleeping bag and a share of commissary supplies.
Arriving at temporary camp at timber line, we hurriedly
made preparations for the night, in a tiny natural park
5,000 feet in altitude. Here and there were patches of
snow, soft green grass between, and clumps of wind-
blown fir trees.
Boulder Glacier could be seen at the west, Park
Creek Glacier lay northeast, Baker Lake lay to the south-
east, and Mt. Shuksan was directly east. Right before us
rose Mt. Baker. Anticipating a strenuous tomorrow,
we retired early, but not for slumber. For the beautiful
clear night proved a most chilly one, and the cold wind
blowing over the snow fields pierced straight through
sleeping bags. When the bugle sounded at 2 o’clock,
there was no reluctance in obeying its summons.
This was just before the dawning of the much an-
ticipated day. We groped for our belongings in the dark.
How the lacings of the boots did evade trembling
fingers. How awkward you are in your haste. Then
you look up at the quiet stars and seem to gather some
of their calmness. On the morning in question a huge
meteor shot through the heavens, illuminating the whole
sky. We took it for a good omen. Breakfast ready, and
with canteen and alpenstock, you proceed toward the
commissary. What does the scene before you mean?
There before the blazing fire is a line of grotesque fig-
ures. Beside the fire are three wizards pronouncing
incantations over steaming caldrons.
Is this the spirit of the mountains dispensing some
magic potion to these uncanny creatures?
Have you, like Rip Van Winkle, fallen asleep on the
UANVA LNOOW “WHIOWID UAGTNOA NO AdOTS HO! dHYLS V ONIAWITIO
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The Mountaineer 95
mountain and awakened to discover gnomes and elves
in mystic ceremony ?
Not at all. You are quite safe in advancing and
joining the weird procession. You have only caught the
Mountaineers in the act of breakfasting.
“Fall in!” came the order, and all mystery vanishes,
Thirty-nine men and women spring to their places, and
we are off—off to conquer Kulshan.
Our quarry rears his head defiantly before us; the
unclouded crown seems just a little way beyond.
No artist could paint that dawn. A _ world of
mountains on either side, mysterious in the light from
the starlit sky. As the line rose to upper levels the stars
faded and the silhouette of Mt. Shuksan stood out
against a more brilliant sky. And clearer could we see
mountain succeeding mountain in this marvelous pano-
rama. Then a sudden brightness and the exquisite
morning is radiant with sunlight. In the dark line,
slowly advancing, hearts leap with the joy of being a part
of this upper world, and glory in their power to indulge
in their chosen sport. As the sun reached its zenith
the last icy rampart had yielded and the great white
peak is conquered. In an azure world we stand, pulses
thrilling with exultation. We realize why Balboa of
old, chanted the Te Deum when from the heights he
first beheld a new-found ocean.
The cloudless sky was purple above us, with paler
tints at the horizon. Mt. Rainier and Glacier Peak
seemed only a stone’s throw apart. A misty spot was
pointed out as Puget Sound, and the Nooksack River
looked like a tiny silver thread.
We looked down upon the lower peak of Mt. Baker,
and between, the crater sent forth sulphurous vapors,
showing that the heart of the old volcano was still alive.
Reluctantly we began our descent, slowly at first, for
in the upper levels there are many crevasses and pit-
96 The Mountaineer
falls for unwary feet. Further down we coasted over
slopes that had been ascended so slowly.
Reaching our temporary camp, we hurriedly gath-
ered our belongings and left at once for permanent camp.
Early the next morning camp was broken and we
were again on the trail toward home. A party of
twenty visited Baker Lake as a side trip, joining the
rest of the party at Boulder.
Thus ended the Second Annual Outing of the
“Mountaineers.” To whom are we indebted for its
unqualified success? To the management of Mr. Curtis,
assisted by Mr. Nelson, and Mr. Best; to the merry band
who entertained at the campfires; to the physicians who
cared for bodily ills; and to every individual in the com-
pany, for each contributed to the general spirit of good
fellowship that prevailed.
MOUNT BAKER
(Dedicated to The Mountaineers)
Near to a mountain top I stood,
Ambition urging on, all else forgot,
To win applause for daring and for strength.
Id passed great jagged rocks and danger points
Of deep crevasse or snow-slides swift as death,
While sleet and storm raged o’er, with icy blast.
The summit gained, an awful knowledge grew
Of jostling throngs below, content with ease,
Who mocked, or jeered, or thought of me no more —
Oh, dread and bleak the height,
Alone! Alone!
But in the world where folly rules the hour
Or creed or crime binds fast the inert ones;
Where clutching hands hold fast to bramble briars,
Or jibes or taunts sting keen as driving hatl,—
The soul that strives, like toiling mountaineer,
To rise above Life’s mediocrity,
Stands, breathless, strong, his hard-won victory
Blazing the way for others who aspire.
What tf he live or die? His work remains,
And as his soul goes on to other heights
Fle ’s not alone!
AicE HarRIMAN.
”y
(
Plate 2
Vol. I.
Mountaineer,
The
1908
TEMPORARY CAMP,
MOUNTAINEERS’
FROM THE
BAKER,
MOUNT
Mp e ea tale
The Mountaineer 97
THE MOUNTAINEERS’ FIRST ASCENT OF
MT. BAKER.
ASAHEL CURTIS.
The Mountaineers’ ascent of Mount Baker, made on
July 29th, with a party of thirty-nine was remarkable only
for the ease and safety with which this, the first large
party reached the summit. Prior to this ascent, the climb
of Baker had been considered very difficult, particularly
with a large party, and no such party had succeeded in
reaching the summit. The route chosen was not a new
one, but it had been used only by small parties, because
of the difficulties in transporting supplies to a camp near
timber-line. When the Mountaineers had solved this, by
building a trail up the ridge between Park and Boulder
Creeks to timber-line, the rest of the outing was easy.
For this reason the outing and the climb stands as a
splendid example of the fulfillment of the purposes of
the club; to make the mountains accessible and to make
mountain climbing one of the safest and cleanest of
sports.
The ascent was made from a temporary camp at
timber-line at an altitude of 5,000 feet between Park
and Boulder Glaciers. From this point a ridge of broken
rock runs up the mountain side for thousands of feet,
until it is joined by the arete that makes down from the
rocks of the summit. This ridge was snow covered in
July this year, because the snows lay on longer than
usual, but when the ridge is bare, the ascent is as easy
as over the snows. There are no great crevasses that
have to be crossed, and the snow slopes are not danger-
ously steep.
The party left temporary camp at 3:30 in the morn-
ing in four companies in command of Captains Mc-
98 The Mountaineer
Gregor, Nettleton, Belt and Mills. L. A. Nelson led
the party, while a small party known as the General
Staff, composed of Curtis, Humes, Epler, Krows and
Morrill,. went ahead to choose the route and break trail
where necessary. This plan worked so well that the
main party did not have to pause on the steepest slopes
for steps to be cut. For the first few hours of the
climb the party advanced steadily, gaining a thousand
feet each hour. The total rise in the day’s climb was
only 6,250 feet, but of course the rare atmosphere at the
higher levels would make progress slower. This rise is,
however, about the maximum that should be attempted
in a single day, by any but the most experienced climbers.
The party was well upon the mountain slopes
when the sun rose just back of the steep spire of Mount
Shuksan. For some time the snows had been stained
red by the reflected light; but the full glory of the morn-
ing sun was dazzling here in such a waste of snow and
ice. The great valleys that lay all below were in deep
shadow and seen from above were dark voids. As the
sun rose the lesser hills caught the light, but the haze
that lay in the valleys prevented a clear view. In the
distance the rosy summit of Rainier rose above the
clouds, faint and cloud-like, through one hundred and
thirty-five miles of space that intervened.
From timber-line to the arete, the climb was devoid
of any incident except the steady ascent over snow
fields that gradually grew steeper. Above the rocks,
the party crossed over to the slope between the two
peaks. Here the snow fields increased in steepness,
making fairly difficult climbing, until the snow cornice
was encountered, directly below the snow fields of the
summit. The snow had broken away from the summit
cap and started to slide down the mountain, and the
only remaining connection was a snow bridge, two feet
wide, but so thin that it was not safe to stand on. Above
this the snow stood twenty feet high, and this had to be
WAMVA LNOOW AO LINWOAS AO LSVAHLOOS AHL OL HOINHOO MONS
86 ADI *T 104 ‘hoaurppUnopy aY.L
The Mountaineer 99
cut away before the party could go up. This was slow
and tedious, particularly to those who had to stand in
the snow and wait, with nothing to do. An hour’s work,
the last of the snow slid into the crevasse, a line
was made fast above, to prevent anyone slipping into
the icy depths and one by one the party passed up. The
stay on the summit was very brief, for a bitter wind
was blowing. The old Mazama record box, left two
years before, was found open and resting on the snow.
The party registered as rapidly as possible and left
the summit, glad to escape from the bitter cold wind.
The descent was handled even more carefully than the
ascent, and greater care taken to prevent an accident.
The fact that the party reached camp without a single
mishap is due to the constant care of Mr. Nelson, who
had immediate charge of the party, and Mr. McGregor,
Capt. of Co. A, who was with Nelson throughout the
climb.
It is a splendid thing to find a party, that in so
short a time can be made into a working organization,
capable of carrying out such an ascent, and this result
could not be accomplished without the hearty co-op-
eration of every member.
100 The Mountaineer
FIRST AID IN THE MOUNTAINS.
Cora SmitH Eaton, M. D.
This article could more properly be written by our
treasurer, Dr. E. F. Stevens, who has doubtless ren-
dered more first aid to injured mountaineers than all
the other mountaineering doctors in the state put to-
gether. However, as Dr. Stevens is a man of deeds
rather than of words, it falls to me to state the general
principles underlying the practice of medicine and surg-
ery in the mountains.
It may be thought that the doctors and the patients
work under many disadvantages in camp, or on the
mountainside. Yet, while this is true as to conveniences,
the reverse is true as to essentials. The essentials for a
patient’s recovery from accident, or illness are these:
Good general health, pure air and outdoor living, free-
dom from routine, cares of business or family, clean
water for drinking and bathing, and inspiring surround-
ings. These essentials we always have in a group of
mountain climbers, and when you can add plenty of good
food, well cooked, which we can count on in the Moun-
taineers’ Club, the surgeon is well outfitted, even without
the hospital equipment so necessary in the city.
The medical ailments most commonly brought to the
doctor in the mountains are headache, indigestion, diar-
rhoea, constipation, earache and toothache. The first
four are usually preventable and are worth mentioning,
because the “first aid” should be applied by the patient
himself before he becomes ill, that he may avoid the
illness altogether.
Headache usually comes from prolonged exertion,
coupled with anxiety, as in the leader of a refractory
pack train over a bad trail, or in members of the official
The Mountaineer 101
staff who conduct a carefree company up to the summit
and back, past many dangers, keeping everyone both
cheerful and careful till safe in camp again. 7
Indigestion is seldom heard of except in rainy
weather, when exercise is interfered with and the idlers in
camp overeat of the goodies our chef comforts us withal,
such as beef stew with Spanish sauce, followed by
mince pie.
Diarrhoea in the mountains is almost always caused
by weariness and worry, and is more apt to occur early
in the trip, before the carking cares of city life are quite
forgotten, and before the climber is rested from the —
preparations for the trip.
Constipation is rare in the mountains, when to the
active exercise is added generous dishes of stewed fruits,
daily.
For earache, the best prevention is to sleep with the
head dry and closely covered with wool, as with a stock-
ing cap, or a little shawl pinned snugly. For cure, be-
sides the doctor’s internal remedies, glycerine with car-
bolic acid to sterilize and cocaine to stop the pain, will
relieve. Glycerine two teaspoonfuls, carbolic acid two
drops, cocaine four and one-half grains, is the propor-
tion, to be warmed and put into the ear on absorbent
cotton.
For toothache, half iodine and half aconite tinctures,
painted on the gum every two or three hours, will make
the sufferer call you blessed. These two preparations
I always carry into the wilderness.
The surgical cases are the natural result of life on
the trail. First come blistered feet from heavy boots,
next blistered faces from the sun’s reflection on the
snow, then an interesting list of sprained knees, wrists
or ankles; bruises, cuts and burns; rarely, frosted feet
from long time in the snows and crevasses. The major
cases, of broken legs and more serious injuries, we
hope to avoid altogether by caution. But if they come,
102 The Mountaineer
despite our care, impromptu splints. made from the
handle of an ice axe, or from pieces of an alpenstock,
if above the tree line, and bandages of bandana hand-
kerchiefs will answer every purpose, till the stretcher
improvised from the lifeline and two alpenstocks, as
made by Mr. J. Fred Blake in the 1907 outing, can bear
the patient into camp.
For blistered feet, the best prevention, far superior
to adhesive plaster, is a chamois heel protector which
should be worn next to the skin, not outside the socks,
the feet being kept well oiled. These heel protectors
can be bought for twenty-five cents a pair at shoe stores.
If the blisters have actually occurred, there is no
remedy more soothing and antiseptic than five per cent.
salicylic acid in lanoline, without which no “tenderfoot”
mountaineer should go into the hills. This also is ex-
cellent treatment for frost bite and for sore feet of all
degrees.
For the prevention of sunburn, grease paint is all
sufficient, put on generously before going on the snows.
The color of grease paint used seems to be immaterial.
For the cure of sunburn, glycerine and water, 1 to 4,
followed by the best cold cream, such as Daggett &
Ramsdell’s, several times a day.
For sprains or other muscular lameness, a liniment
ot chloroform, two per cent., in glycerine, rubbed in
well and frequently, is a panacea even better than arnica.
For cuts and burns, a mild antiseptic salve, like the
campho-phenique, called ‘“Scrofonol,” is good. Apply
the salve, then cover with a thin layer of absorbent
cotton, to prevent the adhesive plaster from coming in
contact with the wound, then the adhesive to hold the
dressing in place.
If a cut must be sewed together, and a tyro must do
it, remember to sew muscle to muscle and skin to skin,
and you may do as well as an experienced surgeon. If
there is bleeding, as from a severed artery, which
The Mountaineer 103
pressure alone will not stop, tie a handkerchief or strip
of torn garment above the cut, as tightly as necessary
to stop the flow of blood, till the artery can be tied with
a stitch around it.
To be a good mountaineer is to be good in emergen-
cies, and it is surprising how much a layman can do,
whatever the accident, in the way of first aid. Every
difficulty yields to common sense and a cool head.
A MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCE.
E. H. WELLs.
A sixteen-year-old Seattle girl was entombed alive
one day last August deep down in a glacier crevasse op
Mt. Rainier. She was finally rescued, after four long
and terrible hours spent in the dark abyss of ice. Today
the heroine of this startling adventure, Marjorie Hellen-
brand, is alive and well and attending the Broadway
high school.
The story escaped the daily papers. Miss Marjorie
is a very modest sort of mountain climber, who seeks
no glory in the public prints. So she carefully kept her
story and photograph away from the editors and report-
ers, and by so doing “scooped” them all.
Only by chance recently did the facts reach the ears
of the writer, and the latter, after considerable persua-
sion, finally secured permission to give them to the
readers of THE MOUNTAINEER.
On Wednesday, August 21, 1907, a party of sixteen
persons, under the leadership of Dr. Lauman, started
from camp at the foot of Mt. Rainier, to climb the face
of the mountain, aiming to reach the point known as
Little Tahoma.
In the party were the following, besides Dr. Lauman:
104 The Mountaineer
Mrs. Bert Davis, Iola Herren and Marjorie Hellenbrand,
all of Seattle; Mrs. McMann, Mrs. Siler, Mr. Siler, Mr.
McMann, Will Siler, Clarence McMann, Everett Trues-
dale, Beverly Coiner, Louise Siler and John McMann,
all from the Big Bottom country. There were also
several children.
The ascent to Little Tahoma was successfully ac-
complished by the whole party, the top being reached
about five o’clock in the afternoon. A dense fog had
interfered with the speed of the climbers to some extent,
and they found themselves obliged to hurry back down
the mountain, in order to reach camp before dark.
About this time the lack of a proper organization of
the party began to make itself manifest. Strict disci-
pline was not enforced by Dr. Lauman, as head of the
expedition, and everybody was allowed to scramble down
as he or she saw fit. The doctor himself lingered be-
hind with Beverly Coiner, Mrs. Davis and Marjorie
Hellenbrand, to take some kodak pictures, and the
party formation was thus dissolved.
Most of the members of the expedition continued on
down an old trail to the foot of the mountain and
reached camp in safety before nightfall.
But with the stragglers it was different. The picture-
taking required some time, and it was fast growing late.
Finally Dr. Lauman decided to push rapidly down the
mountain, taking what appeared to be a short cut across
the big glacier which lies just below Gibraltar Rock.
He figured that this course would save considerable
time, and would probably enable the rear guard to over-
take the main party, before the latter reached camp.
The glacier seemed safe and firm at the point where
he chose to cross it, so, without hesitation, he took Mrs.
Davis on one side and Marjorie on the other, grasp-
ing their arms, and with Beverly Coiner following be-
hind, started briskly across.
Hardly had the party proceeded a hundred yards out
The Mountaineer 105
on the ice field when they encountered a blind crevasse,
completely hidden under a frail bridge of snow. The
first warning came when the Doctor, with Mrs. Davis
and Marjorie, sank suddenly into the snow. As Mrs.
Davis was going down, she clutched desperately at
the edge of the crevasse and _ succeeded in getting
hold of a projection, to which she clung with the
strength borne of sudden terror. A moment later she
made a successful effort to draw herself up out of the
snow, in which she was immersed to her neck. In some
unexplained manner she also pulled Dr. Lauman out,
he being unable to help himself.
But in the meantime Marjorie had disappeared. She
had broken completely through the snow bridge and
shot down into the dark depths below. For thirty-five
feet she descended at a swift pace, rolling, falling and
tumbling from side to side, in the narrow crevasse, until
finally she brought up with a hard bump upon a pro-
jecting ledge of ice, which made the crevasse too nar-
row for her body to pass through. But the feet and
limbs did jam their way down and were immersed in
ice water from the glacier.
Had it not been for the ledge on which she so fortu-
nately lodged, just above the surface of the water, Mar-
jorie would probably have been drowned. The water
undoubtedly extended for a considerable depth below,
as subsequent investigations showed.
All around the prisoner in the ice was a dark green
wall, closing in upon her on all sides, while from far
above came down the faint rays of light from the out-
side world.
To say that Marjorie was startled would be putting
it very mildly. She was scared, and scared badly, but
never for a moment did she lose her presence of mind.
Most girls would probably have gone off into a dead
swoon, as the result of terror.
106 The Mountaineer
But let me now give the story in Marjorie’s own
language:
“After awhile I got over my fright. I felt that I
was secure on the ice ledge, and I knew that my friends
up above, would do everything necessary to get me out
of the crevasse. All that I had to do was to wait
patiently—and keep from freezing. Oh, it was cold
there! I was thirty-five feet down in the solid ice, with
a short-sleeved waist and a calico skirt, and the awful
cold ‘coming out from the glacier. I grew numb. But
I knew I must not go to sleep. I must keep awake at
any cost.
“To make things worse for me, I was sitting in ice
water up to my knees!
“I knew there were no ropes in the party, or any
other things to work with except one axe.
“Within a few moments I heard Mrs. Davis’ voice
way up above, calling down to me, and I answered.
Then she called again: ‘Marjorie, you must not go to
sleep. Keep awake until we can get you out of the ice!’
“And I said I would. But it was hard work. I
began to sing all of the little pieces I knew, and to
recite all of the poems I had learned. Over and over
I said these things. Then I sang again. I had to keep
awake.
“Within a few minutes I received some clothing.
Mrs. Davis took off her own skirt and threw it down
to me. It arrived all right. Then a rubber focusing
cloth came down, and I got that also. I wrapped them
around my bare arms and shoulders, and they helped
a whole lot.
“Finally it began to grow dark. Then it got real
dark. It was night up above on the glacier. And it
was awful dark down below in the ice.
“But I knew they were going for ropes and axes
and would get me out. I must wait and keep awake till
they got the ropes.
The Mountaineer 107
“Mrs. Davis staid up on the mountain to keep me
company, while the Doctor and Beverly hurried down
to camp for the ropes and other men to help get me out.
“Finally, about ten o’clock in the evening, they re-
turned, bringing ropes, lanterns, axes and candles. They
first tried to send Beverly down, to put the rope around
me. He made trouble by getting jammed in the ice, and
finally brought an avalanche of snow upon my head
that buried me almost out of sight. And he had no
light..
“So they pulled him back up, and then Will Siler
came down on the rope, carrying a candle and an axe.
I was so frozen in and snowed in by that time that he
had to cut me out.
“At last he got me loose and put the end of a rope
around me and tied it fast. My hands were without
feeling, and numb. They then pulled me up onto the
glacier.
“T was pretty far gone, and could hardly walk. But
they made me do the best I could and finally got me
down to camp. Then the doctor knew just what to do
and he brought me out all right.
“For several weeks my hands felt queer and were
without feeling in them, but gradually they came back
to life.
“The only bruises I received were on my arms, when
they pulled me up through the crevasse. My left arm
was barked considerably. But I went down without a
scratch.”
And so Marjorie’s adventure ended. It was one that
few mountain climbers would care to experience, and
which she herself would certainly never want again.
The marvel of it was that she escaped so well.
I asked her if she had any further desire for the
mountains.
“T want to go to the Cascades next summer,” she
replied.
108 The Mountaineer
THE SEED PLANTS, FERNS, AND FERN AL-
LIES, OF THE HIGHER REGIONS OF THE
OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS.
HP AG Bs oy
This list has been prepared from lists made by
Professors Piper and Henderson, also from collections
made by the writer, who has made five trips collecting
in different parts of this region. The plants of the
last expedition are not yet fully determined, hence are
only partially included in this list. This last collection
was made in the vicinity of Port Angeles and Mount
Angeles. This mountain has by far the richest flora.
Plants which are considered rare in other localities of
the Olympics, are found here in profusion. It is also the
most accessible region. An altitude of 6,000 feet can be
reached in a day from the city of Port Angeles.
It is conceded by botanists, who have collected in
both the Cascade Mountains and the Olympics, that the
flora of the two regions is quite similar. The following
plants, said to be missing from the Olympic region,
were seen in the highly elevated region of Mount
Olympus: Saxifraga tolmiei, Lupinus lyallii, Gentiana
calycosa and Eucephalus ledophhllus with the possible
exception of the last.
Few people have ever visited Mount Olympus,
which lies back from civilization about seventy miles. No
report has been made of its flora. The region has sev-
eral glaciers. Some of these are mere remnants showing
in the best possible manner recent striae, others are
five miles or more in length, having quite large moraines,
with their characteristic flora. It was near these old
moraines that the above plants were seen. A _ fuller
knowledge of the flora of the Olympic region will,
doubtless, show a greater similarity. The spruce (Picea
The Mountaineer 109
Sitchensis) so abundant near the west coast, was not
seen in the Mount Olympus region, nor was the White
Barked Pine (Pinus albicaulis). The other coniferous
trees common in the Cascades were also common here,
forming symmetrical clusters through the beautiful
grassy meadows.
Around our camp near the headwaters of the Elwha
River was a peculiar blending of plants of low altitude
with those of high. Spiraea donglasii and Spiraea den-
siflora were growing side by side, as were Hypericum
scouleri and Hypericum anagalloides. Hypericum scoul-
eri is not a common mountain plant in the western part
of Washington. Senecio flettii, a high altitude plant,
had found a congenial home in an old orchard, at the
base of Mount Angeles. Another example was that
of Luina hypoleuca growing low down on an old de-
serted ranch. Many other examples might be given.
Professor Piper assigns excessive rainfall as the cause
of this strange mixture of low and high altitude plants.
The following plants are known only from the
Olympics: Elymus virescens Allium crenulatum, Erysi-
mum arenicola, Arabis sp. new, collected at the base of
Mount Olympus, Viola flettii, Synthyris pinnatifida lanu-
ginosa, Spiraea hendersoni, Epilobium mirabile, Pole-
monium amoenum, Mertensia leptophylla, Castilleja an-
gustifolia abbreviata, Campanula piperi, Aster pauct-
capitatus and Arnica betonicaefolia.
The above list is, doubtless, very incomplete. Some
of these, named as peculiar to the Olympics, may be
found on some of the high peaks forming the foot hills
on the western slope of the Cascades. Many of these
peaks have not been thoroughly explored. Vast areas
in the Olympics still remain for botanical exploration.
I have followed the order of arrangement and
names of plants as given in Professor Piper’s Flora of
the State of Washington:
110
Ceropteris triangularis (Kaulf.)
Underw.
Polypodium occidentale (Hook. )
Maxon.
Polypodium hesperium Maxon.
Phegopteris alpestris ( Hoppe.)
Mett.
Phegopteris dryopteris (L.)
Fle,
Adiantum pedatum aluticum
Rupr.
Pteridium aquilinum pubescens
Underw.
Pellaea densa (Brack.) Hook.
Cheilanthes gracillima D. C.
Eaton.
Cryptogramma acrostichoides R.
Br.
Struthiopteris spicant (L.)
Weiss.
Asplenium trichomanes L.
Athyrium cyclosorum Rupr.
Polystichum lonchitis (L.)
Roth.
Polystichum munitum (Kaulf.)
Presl.
Polystichum munitum imbrians
(D. C. E.) Maxon.
Polystichum aculeatum lobatum.
Dryopteris spinulosa dilatata
(Hoffm.) Underw.
Filix fragilis (L.) Underw.
Botrychium silaifolium Pres.
Botrychium lanceolatum
(Gmel.) Angr.
Botrychium onondagense
Underw.
Equisetum hiemale L.
Equisetum arvense L.
Equisetum telmateia Ehrh.
Equisetum fluviatile L.
Lycopodium selago L.
Lycopodium sitchense Rupr.
Lycopodium clavatum L.
The Mountaineer
Selaginella struthioloides
(Presl.) Underw.
Selaginella rupestris (L.)
Spring.
Isoetes, this genus is doubtless
represented in the many
mountain lakes which the
writer has not examined.
Taxus brevifolia Nutt.
Juniperus communis
(Burgsd.) Rydberg.
Juniperus scopulorum Sargent.
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis
(Lamb) Spach.
Thuja plicata Donn.
Pinus monticola Dougl.
Pinus contorta Dougl.
Pinus albicaulis Engelm?
Abies nobilis Lindl.
Abies lasiocarpa (Hook.) Nutt.
Abies amabilis (Dougl.)
Forbes.
Abies grandis Lindl.
Pseudotsuga micronata (Raf.)
Sndlw.
Tsuga heterophylla (Raf.)
Sarg.
Tsuga mertensiana (Bong.)
Carr.
Picea sitchensis (Bong.)
Trant & Meyer.
Sparganium minimum Fries.
Potamogeton lonchites Tuck.
Potamogeton robbinsii Oakes.
Ruppia maritima L.
Stipa minor (Vasey.) Scribn.
Alopecurus geniculatus fulvus
(Smith.) Sonder.
Phleum alpinum L.
Polypogon monspeliensis (L.)
Desf.
Polypogon littoralis ( With.)
Smith.
Cinna latifolia (Trev.) Griseb.
siberica
Plate 29
Vol. I.
The Mountaineer,
RASS.
7
COMMONLY CALLED INDIAN BASKET G
AX.
XEROPHYLLUM TEN
FOUND IN HIGH ALTITUDES
The Mountaineer 111
Calamagrostis vaseyi Beal. Bromus eximius umbraticus
Calamagrostis aleutica Trin. Piper.
West Coast. Bromus richardsonii pallidus
Calamagrostis lansdorffi. Trin. (Hook.) Shea.
Agrostis humilis Vasey. Hordeum nodosum L.
Agrostis alba L. Elymus glaucus Buckl.
Agrostis pallens Trin. Elymus borealis Scribn.
Agrostis ampla Hitchcock. Sitanion rigidum Smith.
Agrostis rossae Vasey. Sitanion glabrum Smith.
Agrostis hyemalis Walt. Sitanion planifolium Smith.
Aira praecox L. Scirpus ceospitosus L.
Merathrepta intermedia cusickii Carex ablata Bailey.
Williams. Carex amplifolia Boott.
Deschampsia caespitosa (L.) | Carex bolanderi Olyney.
Beanv. Carex circinata Meyer.
Deschampsia atropurpurea Carex festiva horneri Piper.
(Wahl.) Scheele. Carex festiva pachystachya
Deschampsia elongata (Hook.) (Cham.) Bailey.
Munro. Carex illota Bailey.
Trisetum spicatum (L.) Carex kelloggii Boott.
Richter. Carex mertensii Prescott.
Trisetum canescens Buckl. Carex multimoda Bailey.
Trisetum cernuum Trin. Carex phaeocephala Piper.
Koeleria cristata (L.) Pers. Carex scirpoidea Michx.
Melica subulata (Griseb) Carex scopulorum Holm.
Scribner. Carex spectabilis Dew.
Pleuropogon refractum (Gray.) Carex stipata Huhl.
Vasey. Lysichiton camtschatcense (L.)
Poa leptocoma Trin. Schott.
Poa sandbergii Vasey. Juncus effusus hesperius Piper.
Poa paddensis Williams. Juncus subtriflorus (Meyer.)
Poa saxatilis Scrib & Williams. Colville.
Distichlis spicata (L.) Greene. Juncus parryi Engelm.
Festuca ovina supina (Schur.) Juncus mertensianus Bong.
Hack. Juncoides parviflorum (Ehrh.)
Festuca subulata Trin. Coville.
Panicularia pauciflora (Presl.) Juncoides piperi Coville.
Kuntze. Allium cernuum Roth.
Paniculoria nervata (Wild.) Allium crenulatum Wiegand.
Bromus marginatus seminudus Allium acuminatun Hook.
Shear. Lilium parviflorum (Hook)
Bromus marginatus latior Holzinger.
Shear. Erythronium montanum Wats.
Bromus sitchensis Trin. Erythronium parviflorum
112
(Wats) Gooding.
Lloydia serotina (L.) Sweet.
Veratrum veride Ait.
Tofieldia intermedia Rydberg.
Stenanthium occidentale Gray.
Xerophyllum tenax (Pursh)
Nutt.
Xygadenus elegans Pursh.
Trillium ovatum Pursh.
Clintonia uniflora (Schult)
Kunth.
Vagnera sessilifolia (Baker)
Green.
Vagnera amplexicaulis (Nutt)
Green.
Unifolium bifolium kamtschati-
cum (G mel).
Streptopus roseus Michx.
Corallorhiza mertensiana Bong.
Cytherea bulbosa (L) House.
Ophrys caurina (Piper)
Rydberg.
Ophrys convallarioides (Sw)
Wight.
Peramium decipiens Hook.
Piperia unalaskensis (Spreng.)
Rydberg.
Piperia elegens (Lindl.)
Rydberg.
Limnorchis dilatata (Pursh)
Rydberg.
Limnorchis leucostachys (Lndl)
Rydberg.
Salix lasiandra Benth.
Salix scouleriana Barratt.
Salix barclayi Anders.
Salix commutata Bebb.
Salix sitchensis Sanson.
Populus trichocarpa Torr &
Gray.
Alnus sinuata (Regel) Rydberg.
Alnus oregona.
Urtica lyallii Wats.
Razoumofskya douglasii
The Mountaineer
tsugensis ?
Asarum caudatum Lindl.
Oxyria digyna (L) Hill.
Polygonum minimum Wats.
Polygonum douglasii Greene.
Polygonum nuttallii Small.
Polygonum bistortoides Pursh.
Polygonum newberryi Small.
Eriogonum ovalifolium Nutt.
Eriogonum vineum Small.
Eriogonum pyrolaefolium
coryphaeum Ton & Gr.
Lewisia columbiana (Howell)
Robinson.
Claytonia lanceolata Pursh.
Claytonia asarifolia Bong.
Claytonia siberica L.
Claytonia parviflora Moc.
Spraguea multiceps Howell.
Silene acaulis L.
Silene douglasii Hook.
Silene macounii Wats.
Cerastium arvense L. .
Alsine borealis (Bigel.)
Britton.
Alsine calycantha (Ledb.)
Rydberg.
Alsine crispa (Cham &
Schlecht.) Holzinger.
Alsine washingtoniana
Sagina occidentalis Wats.
Moehringia macrophylla
(Hook.).
Arenaria capillaris nardifolia
(Ledeb.) Regel.
Arenaria verna rubella (Wahl.
Wats.
Arenaria nuttallii Pax.
Arenaria sajanensis Wild.
Anemone hudsoniana (D. C.)
Richards.
Anemone drummondii Wats.
Anemone lyallii Britton.
The Mountaineer
Anemone quinquefolia L.
Pulsatilla occidentalis Wats.
Freyn.
Thalictrum occidentale Gray.
Trautvetteria grandis Nutt.
Ranunculus suksdorfii Gray.
Ranunculus eschsholtzii Schleet.
Caltha biflora D. C.
Trollins laxus Salisb.
Actea spicata arguta (Nutt)
Tor.
Aquilegia formosa Fisch.
Delphinium scopulorum
glaucum Gray.
Delphinium bicolor Nutt.
Achlys triphylla (Smith) D. C.
Bikukulla formosa.
Draba stenoloba Lebed.
Draba glacialis Adams.
Cardamine kamtschatica
(Regel) Schulz.
Arabis drummondii Gray.
Arabis lyallii Wats.
Erysimum asperum (Nutt)
Be
Erysimum arenicola Wats.
Smelowskia calycina Meyer.
Sedum spathulifolium Hook.
Sedum divergens Wats.
Sedum douglasii Hook.
Sedum stenopetalum Pursh.
Leptarrhena amplexifolia
Sternb.) Ser.
Therofon elatum (Nutt)
Greene.
Saxifraga
Saxifraga
Saxifraga
Saxifraga
Saxifraga
Saxifraga
tolmiei Torr & Gray.
caepitosa L.
bronchialis L.
mertensiana Bong.
odontophylla Piper.
nelsoniana D. Don.
Saxifraga bongardi Presl.
Saxifraga rufidula.
Tiarella unifoliata Hook.
Tellima parviflora (Pursh)
113
Mitella pentendra Hook.
Mitella breweri Gray.
Mitella trifida Graham.
Heuchera racemosa Wats.
Heuchera glabra.
Parnassia fimbriata Konig.
Ribes lacustre (Pres) Poir.
Ribes laxiflorum Pursh.
Ribes lobii Gray.
Ribes howellii Greene.
Lutkea pectinata (Pursh)
Kuntze.
Spiraea hendersoni (Canby.)
Piper. :
Spiraea douglasii Hook.
Spiraea densiflora Nutt.
Aruncus aruncus L. Karst.
Rubus lasiococcus Gray.
Rubus pedatus Smith.
Rubus nivalis Dougl.
Rubus parviflorus Nutt.
Rosa gymnocarpa Nutt.
Potentilla gracilis Dougl.
Potentilla villosa Pall.
Potentilla flabellifolia Hook.
Potentilla cascadensis Rydberg.
Sibbaldia procumbens L.
Fragaria sp.
Dasiphora fruticosa tenuifolia
(Wild.) Rydb.
Drymocallis valida (Greene).
Drymocallis glandulosa
Rydberg.
Drymocallis wrangelliana
(Fisch & Lall.) Rydberg.
Sieversia ciliata (Pursh.).
Amelanchier florida Lindl.
Pyrus occidentalis.
Pyrus sitchensis.
Lupinus lyallii Gray.
Lupinus subalpinus Piper &
Rob.
Lupinus sp.
114
Hedysarum occidentale Greene.
Aragallus gracilis Nelson.
Aragallus monticola Gray.
Phaca hookeriana Torr & Gr.
Lathyrus nutallii Wats.
Erodium cicutarium L L’Her.
Empetrum nigrum L.
Pachistima myrsinites (Pursh.)
Raf.
Acer macrophyllum Pursh.
Acer douglasii Hook.
Acer circinatum Pursh.
Rhamnus purshiana D. C.
Ceanothus sanguineus Pursh.
Hypericum anagalloides Cham.
& Schlect.
Hypericum scouleri Hook.
Viola sempervirens Greene.
Viola howellii Gray (?)
Viola flettii Piper.
Viola adunca Smith.
Viola retroscabra Greene.
Circaea alpina L.
Epilobium. sp.
Epilobium luteum Pursh. F.
Epilobium brevistylum Barbey.
Epilobium anagallidifolium Lam.
Epilobium oregonense Haussk.
Epilobium hornemanni Reichenb.
Epilobium fastigiatum Nutt.
Epilobium clavatum Trelease.
Epilobium lepiocarpum macounii
Trelease.
Epilobium mirabile trelease.
Epilobium delicatum tenue
Trelease.
Hippuris montana Ledeb.
Echinopanax horridum (Smith.
Dec. & Planch.
Sanicula septentrionalis Greene.
Washingtonia leibergi Coult. &
Rose.
Heracleum lanatum Michx.
The Mountaineer
Angelica genuflexa Nutt.
Angelica lyallii Wats.
Lomatium utriculatum (Nutt.)
Coult & Rose.
Lomatium martindalei angustum
Coult. & Rose.
Oenanthe sarmetosa Presl.
Cornus stolonifera Michx.
Cornus canadensis L.
Chimaphila umbellata (L.)
Nutt.
Chimaphila menziesii (R. Br.)
Spreng.
Moneses uniflora Gr. i
Pyrola minor L.
Pyrola secunda L.
Pyrola picta dentata Smith.
Pterospora andromedea Nutt.
Monotropa uniflora L.
Hypopitys hypopitys (L) Small.
Hemitomes congestum Gray.
Arctostaphylos tomentosa
(Pursh.) Dougl.
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L.)
Spreng.
Cassiope mertensiana ( Bong.)
Don.
Phyllodoce glanduliflora
(Hook.) Coville.
Phyllodoce empetriformis
(Smith.) Don.
Kalmia glauca microphylla
Hook.
Rhododendron californicum
Hook.
Rhododendron albiflorum Hook.
Menziesia ferruginea Smith.
Gaultheria shallon Pursh.
Gaultheria humifusa (Grahm.)
Rydberg.
Gaultheria ovatifolia Gray.
Vaccinium deliciosum Piper.
Vaccinium macrophyllum Hook.
The Mountaineer 115
Vaccinium ovalifolium Smith.
Vaccinium parvifolium Smith.
Dodocatheon jeffreyi Van
Houtte.
Douglasia laevigata Gray.
Gentiana calcycosa Greseb.
Menyanthes trifolia L.
Apocynum androsaemifolium L.
Phlox condensata (Gray.)
Nelson.
Phlox diffusa Benth.
Collomia debilis ( Wats.)
Greene.
Romanzoffia sitchensis Bong.
Hydrophyllum albifrons Heller.
Phacelia sericea (Graham)
Gray.
Mertensia laevigata Piper,
Lamb.
Stachys ciliata Dougl.
Collinsia tenella Pursh.
Pentstemon menziesii Hook.
Pentstemon davidsonii.
Pentstemon procerus Dougl.
Pentstemon diffusus Dougl.
Chelone nemerosa Dougl.
Synthyris pinnatifida lanuginosa
Piper.
Veronica alpina L.
Veronica cusickii Gray.
Mimulus lewisii Pursh.
Mimulus alpinus Gray.
Pedicularis groendlandica
surrecta (Benth.) Piper.
Pedicularis bracteosa Benth.
Pedicularis racemosa Doug].
Castilleja crispula (?).
Castilleja oreopola Greenman.
Castilleja angustifolia bradburii
(Nutt.) Fernald.
Castilleja angustifolium abrrevi-
ata Fernald.
Castilleja miniata Doug.
Orthocarpus imbricatus Torr.
Thalesia uniflora (L.) Britton.
Thalesia fasiculata ( Nutt.)
Britton.
Pinguicula vulgaris L.
Linnaea americana Forbes.
Lonicera utahensis Wats.
Sambucus glauca Nutt.
Valeriana sitchensis Bong.
Campanula scouleri Hook.
Campanula rotundifolia L.
Campanula piperi Howell.
Agoseris alpestris (Gray.)
Greene.
Agoseris aurantiaca (Hook.)
Greene.
Crepis nana Richards.
Crepis occidentalis Nutt.
Hieracium albiflorum Hook.
Hieracium gracile Hook.
Chrysopsis oregana (Nutt.)
Gray.
Hoorebekia lyallii Gray.
Solidago corymbosa Nutt.
Erigeron speciosus D. C.
Erigeron salsuginosus (Rich-
ards.) Gray.
Erigeron compositus trifidus
(Hook.) Gray.
Erigeron aureus Greene.
Erigeron acris debilis Gray.
Eucephalus ledophyllus (Gray)
Greene( ?)
Eucephalus paucicapitatus (Rob-
inson.) Greene.
Eriophyllum lanatum (Pursh.)
Forbes.
Achillea millefolium lanulosa
(Nutt.) Piper.
Artemisia borealis wormskioldis
Besser.
Artemisia tilesii Ledeb.
Arnica latifolia Bong.
Arnica mollis (?).
Arnica parryi Gray.
116 The Mountaineer
Arnica betonicaefolia Greene. Antennaria racemosa Hook.
Arnica macounii Greene. Antennaria media Greene.
Petasites frigida (L.) Fries. | Antennaria concinna Nelson.
Luina hypoleuca Benth. Antennaria rosea angustifolia
Senecio flettii Wiegand. (Rydberg.) Nelson.
Senecio lugens Richards. Adenocaulon bicolor Hook.
Senecio triangularis Hook. Saussurea americana D. C.
Antennaria howellii Greene. Eaton
The Mountaineer 117
THALLOPHY TES AND) BRYOGPHYTES
FROM THE
OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS.
oC) Breve
The following is a list of the algae, fungi, lichens,
liverworts and mosses collected on a trip with the
“Mountaineers” in the summer of 1907. Our party left
Port Angeles August 3, reached the Elwha River at
MacDonald, and thence followed its right bank up to
the mouth of Godkin Creek. From there the trail
crossed the river several times, before reaching the junc-
tion of the west, middle and north forks, near which
was ‘Mountaineers’ Camp.” From here side trips were
made up the three forks. About five days were spent here
in collecting. A trip was then made up the north fork of
the Elwha River, through Queets-Elwha Pass into the
Queets River valley, to a camp near the base of the rock
which splits the Humes Glacier into two roughly equal
parts. About here, three days were spent in collecting,
one trip extending across Queets River towards Queets
Glacier. From here also, a trip was made to the summit
of Mt. Olympus, on which several plants were found.
On the return, Port Angeles was reached August 19,
thus the whole trip was made in sixteen days.
ABBREVIATIONS
*Not before reported from the Olympics. The basis for this
is Henderson’s account of his and Piper’s collections, in Steel
Points, Vol. 1, No. 4, pp. 160-198, 1907. Portland, Oregon.
E. Elwha River Valley.
Q. Queets River valley.
H. Near the front of Humes Glacier, from its base down-
ward for about 1,000 feet.
tNot before reported from Washington.
§Not before reported in America.
||Found no place in Washington except in the Olympics.
118
bi
72
ge
*4,
sabe
nO:
The Mountaineer
ALGAE
OSCILLATORIACEAE
Phormidium autumnale (Agardh.) Gomont..
E, west of Mountaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet, in
glacial streamlet as slimy threads on rocks.
VOLVOCACEAE
Sphaerella nivalis (Bauer) Sommerf. Red Snow.
In Queets-Elwha Pass, on Mt. Noyes and on
Mt. Queets. These plants are spherical red-
dish cells, and apparently find sufficient heat
for life on and in the snow; is not uncommon
on Mt. Rainier.
ULVACEAE
Prasiola mexicana
On rocks near surface of water in Elwha
River, about 4 miles above the mouth of Lil-
lian Creek; forming attached leaf-like expan-
sions up to 1% inches long and 34 inches wide;
not slimy like the usual condition common
about Seattle.
CHETOPHORACEAE
Trentpohlia aurea
E, in bottom, 8 miles above Humes, on fork of
living Alnus oregona. This resembles patches
of brown or rusty hairs about % inch long.
HYDRURACEAE
Hydrurus foetidus (?) (Vill.) Kirchner.
As slimy covering on rocks in west fork of
Elwha River, west of Mountaineers’ Camp,
4000 feet.
FUNGI
Capnodium salicinum (?) (A. & S.).
QO, H, 5000 feet, on living Abies amabilis, as a
black wool on the twigs, (No. 16).
The Mountaineer, Vol. I. Plate 30
CASSIOPE MERTENSIANA. THE WHITE HEATHER COMMON TO THE CASCADES
AND THE OLYMPICS
The Mountaineer, Vol. I. Plate 31
CAMPANULA PIPERI, A RARE HARE-BELL FOUND IN THE OLYMPICS
7 A
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wes
10.
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ig] Ke
*14.
£5.
16.
a
*18.
led
The Mountaineer 119
LICHENS
CALICIACEAE
Sphaerophorus globiferous (L.) Tuck.
E, in bottom 8 miles above Humes, 2000 feet,
(No. 8).
CLADONIACEAE
Pilophorus cereolus var. hallit Tuck.
Q, H, on dry rock, 5000 feet, (No. 26).
Stereocaulon tomentosum (Fr.) Th. Fr.
E, near mouth of Godkin Creek, 2300 feet, on
soil, (No. 83).
Cladomia bellidiflora (Ach.) Schaer.
E, near Mountaineers’ Camp, on soil, 4000
feet, (No. 12). Q, H, 5000 feet, on: soil,
(Nos. 80, 82).
Cladonia rangiferina (L.) Web.
Specimen with locality label not yet returned,
(Wa! 25):
Cladomia pyxidata var. prolifera Arn.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on soil, (No. 32).
Cladomia pyxidata var. chlorophaea Aigret.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on soil, (No. 47).
Cladonia fimbriata (L.) Fr.
QO, H, 5500 feet, on rocks, (No. 48).
Cladoma pyxidata (L.) Fr.
QO, H, on rocks, 5500 feet, (No. 84).
Cladonia gracilis var. elongata Wain.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on soil, (No. 91).
LECIDEACEAE
Biatora russula (Ach.) Mont.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on trees, (No. 53).
Biatora vernalis (?) (L.) Fr.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on trees, (No. 69).
Lecidea enteroleuca Fr.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on rocks, (No. 18).
120
*20.
rey.
722)
23.
24.
eek
*§26.
ere
een
72.
The Mountaineer
Lecidea atrobrunea (DC.) Schaer.
From the summit of Mt. Olympus, 8200 feet,
on rocks, (No. 46).
Umbilicaria angulata Tuck.
O, H, 5500 feet, on rocks, (No. 42).
Umbilicaria rugifera Ny.
From the summit of Mt. Olympus, 8200 feet,
on rocks, (No. 44).
Rhizocarpon geographicum (L.) DC. Buellia
geographica (L.) Tuck.
From the summit of Mt. Olympus, 8200 feet,
on rocks, (No. 72).
GRAPHIDACEAE
Graphis scripta (L.) Ach.
EF, along Lillian Creek, on bark of living Hem-
lock, 1500 feet, (No. 22).
Graphis elegans (Sm.) Ach.
E, 1200 feet, on bark of living Alder; in bot-
tom between Anderson’s and Humes’, (No. 9) ;
also 3 miles below Camp Elkhorn, 1800 feet,
(No. 28).
PARMELIACEAE
Lecanora haematomma Ehrh.
QO, H, 5500 feet, on rocks, (No. 41).
Lecanora pacifica Tuck.
QO, H, 5500 feet, on back of Alnus oregona,
(No. 67).
Lecanora pallescens var. tumidula ( Pers.) Schaer.
E, between Godkin Creek and Mountaineers’
Camp, 2500 feet, on living Alder, (No. 1).
QO, H, 5000 feet, on dead branches of trees,
(No. 36).
Lecanora pallida (Schreb.) Schaer.
E, 3 miles below Camp Elkhorn, 1800 feet, on
bark of living Alder, (No. 52).
a0)
ene
al:
Tao.
734.
35.
36.
Sor"
Tao.
rae.
*40.
The Mountaineer 121
Parmelia hyperopta Ach.
On trees. E, at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, in
damp bottom, (No. 73); also QO, H, 5000 feet,
(No. 49),
Parmelia physoides var. enteromorpha (Ach.)
Tuck.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, 1800 feet, on fallen Alder,
(No. 11).
Cetraria nitidiuscula Merrill.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on Huckleberry bushes,
(No. 14).
Cetraria glauca (L.) Ach.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, on trees,
(No. 85).
Cetraria glauca var. coralloidea Wallr.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, on trees,
GNow 2h}:
Cetraria glauca var. stenophylla Tuck.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, 1800 feet, on trees,
(No. 60).
Alectoria jubata (L.) Tuck.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on Lovely Fir, (No. 50).
Alectoria sarmentosa Nyl.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on trees, (No. 37).
VERRUCARIACEAE
Thelotrema lepadinum Ach.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, on trees in
damp bottom, (No. 39).
Dermatocarpon miniatum (L.) Fr.
QO, H, 5500 feet, on rocks, (No. 71).
Dermatocarpon miniatum var. aquaticum (Weis)
Fink. Endocarpon fluviatile Ach.
O, H, 5000 feet, on rocks in streamlet,
(No;' 13).
COLLEMACEAE
Hydrothyria venosa (Russell) Tuck.
QO, % mile from Queets-Elwha Pass, 5000 feet,
along streamlet, (No. 15).
122
41.
42.
*43.
*44.,
*45.
*46.
47.
$48.
||49.
§50.
The Mountaineer
PAN NARIACEAE
Peltigera venosa (L.) Hoffm.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on soil, (No. 17).
Peltigera aphthosa (L.) Hoffm.
E, near Mountaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet, on soil,
(No. 50).
Peltigera canina (L.) Hofftm.
On soil. Q, H, 5000 feet, (No. 19); also E,
near Mountaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet, (No. 16).
Peltigera canina var. membranacea
On soil. E, near mouth of Godkin Creek,
2500 feet, (No. 33); also Q, H, 5000 feet,
(No. 10).
Solorina saccata var. spongiosa Nyl.
Q, H, 5500 feet, on soil, (No. 87).
Solorina crocea (L.) Ach.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on soil-covered rocks, (No.
23).
Sticta pulmonaria var. linita Nyl.
Q, H, 5000-5500 feet, on rocks more or less
covered with soil, (Nos. 20, 40).
LIVERWORTS
MARCHANTIACEAE
Clevia hyalina (?) (Somm.) S. O. Lindb.
Along west fork of Elwha River west of
Mountaineers’ Camp, on wet soil, 5500 feet,
(No. 63).
Cryptomitrium tenerum Aust.
E, west of Mountaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet, on
rocky soil under loose boulders of talus slope,
(ING, 33) .
Asterella lindenbergiana Corda. Hypenantron
lindenbergiana (N. ab E.) O. Kuntze.
On wet soil over rocks. Q, H, 4000 feet,
(Nos. 63, 71) ; also on wet mossy rock wall of
+51.
52.
*{153.
*54.
#50.
*§56.
ato
758.
The Mountaineer 123
west fork of Elwha River west of Moun-
taineers’ Camp, 5000 feet, (No. 12).
Asterella gracilis Underw.
Q, H, on wet soil-covered rocks, 5500 feet,
(No. 53).
Conocephalum conicum Underw.
Q, H, on wet rocks, 5000 feet, (No. 27). This
is a common form in western Washington in
places wet the year round.
Preissia quadrata (Scop.) Nees. Chromiocarpon
quadratus (Scop.) S. O. Lindb.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on damp soil over rocks,
(Nos. 26, 41).
Marchantia polymorpha L.
Q, H, on wet soil, 5000 feet, (No. 45); also
on wet banks and springy places from Mac-
Donald to Mountaineers’ Camp in E.
METZGERIACEAE
Riccardia latifrons (Lindb.) Lindb.
E, on decaying logs in damp woods, about 7
miles above Humes, 1800 feet, (No. 4); and
between mouth of Godkin Creek on Moun-
taineers’ Camp, 2200 feet, (No. 1). A com-
mon form in lower altitudes west of the Cas-
cade Mountains.
Pallavicinia blyti (Moerck) Lindb.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 56).
Pallavicinia flotowiana (Nees) Lindb.
Q, H, on wet rocks, 5000 feet, (No. 20).
Pellia neesiana (Gott.) Limpr.
5000 feet, on wet soil and wet rocks; Q, H,
(Nos. 20, 25, 64) ; and in west fork of Elwha
River west of Mountaineers’ Camp, (Nos. 11,
54); also E, a few miles above mouth of
Lillian Creek, in bottom, on soil, 2500 feet,
(No. 8).
124
roo
*|160.
ge
TOE:
*63.
*64.
65.
*||66.
The Mountaineer
Pellia endiviaefolia (Dicks.) Dum.
E, along middle fork, northwest of Moun-
taineers’ Camp, at base of highest fall, on wet
rocks on which clung a thin layer of soil,
4500 feet, (No. 82).
JUNGERMANNIACEAE
Gymnomitrium concinnatum var. intermedium
Limpr.
QO, H, 5000 feet,, on damp rock wall of canyon,
(Nos. 38, 80, 87).
Gymnomuitrium obtusum
Q, H, 5500 feet, on rocks, (No. 48).
Marsupella emarginata (Ehrh.) Dum.
Q, H, 5000 feet, (No. 34); and along middle
fork of Elwha River above Mountaineers’
Camp, 4500 feet, just at foot of highest cas-
cade, (No. 44).
Nardia hyalina (Lyell) S. O. Lindb.
FE, along west fork, west of Mountaineers’
Camp, 5000 feet, on wet soil, (No. 54).
Nardia scalaris (Schrad.) Grand Berm.
QO, H, 5500 feet, on wet clay, (No. 46).
Jungermannia cordifolia Hook. Apolozia cor-
difolia (Hook.) Dum.
Above Mountaineers’ Camp, along north fork
of Elwha River, 4000 feet, on wet rocks in
streamlet, (No. 74). Q, H, on wet rocks,
5000 feet, (No. 56); and near Queets Gla-
cier, (No. 15).
Jungermannia riparia var. potamiphia Muell.
E, along west fork west of Mountaineers’Camp,
4500 feet, (No. 10) ; on middle fork, northwest
of Mountaineers’ Camp, near base of highest
cascade, 4000 feet, (No. 67); in Q, H, 5000
feet, (Nos. 28, 59); and near base of Queets
Glacier (No. 15).
*6/.
*68.
*69.
*1170.
#171.
AG 2.
+173.
*74.
nedee
The Mountaineer 125
Jungermanmnia lanceolata L.
E, about 7 miles above Humes, on rotten log,
1800 feet, (No. 4).
Lophozia alpestris (Schleich.) Evans.
E, about 3 miles above the mouth of Godkin
Creek, on soil, 2500 feet, (No. 9); and along
north fork of Elwha River, above Moun-
taineers’ Camp, on rock, wet with seepage,
4000 feet, (No. 84).
Lophozia incisa (Schrad.) Dum.
Q, about % mile from Queets-Elwha Pass,
along alpine rivulet, 5000 feet, (No. 24); also
E, about 7 miles above Humes’, on rotten log,
1800 feet, (No. 4).
Lophozia porphyroleuca (N. ab. E.) Schiffn.
Lophozia ventricosa (Dicks.) Dum.
E, between mouth of Godkin Creek and Moun-
taineers’ Camp, 2500-3500 feet, on rotten log,
(Nos. 1, 30); also QO, % mile from Queets-
Elwha Pass, along alpine rivulet, 5000 feet,
(No. 24).
Lophozia floerkei W. & M.
E, near Mountaineers’ Camp, 3500 feet, on
soil in woods, (No. 37).
Lophozia minuta (Crantz) Schiffn.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 19).
Lophozia Baueriana Schiffn.
QO, H, 5500 feet, among rocks, (No. 286).
This plant was not before known in America
except from New England.
Plagiochila asplenoides (L.) Dum.
E, near mouth of Godkin Creek, 2500 feet, on
log in woods, (No. 43).
Chilocyphus polyanthus (L.) Corda.
E, in streamlets, 3 miles above Humes, 1800
feet, (No. 23); also at Camp Godkin near
mouth of Godkin Creek, 2500 feet, (No. 62)
126
*76.
“77.
*78.
79.
*80.
ges
82.
*83.
The Mountaineer
Q, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 65) ; also
on wet logs, near Queets Glacier, (No. 18).
Cephalozia bicuspidata (L.) Dum. Eucephalozia
bicuspidata (L.) Schiffn.
E, between Humes and Mountaineers’ Camp,
on rotten logs, 1500-3500 feet, (Nos. 1, 4, 76) ;
also along west fork of Elwha River, 5000
feet, on wet rocks, (No. 54). Q, H, 5000
feet, on wet rocks, (No. 22). A common
form in lower altitudes west of the Cascade
Mts.
Cephalozia lunulaefolia
E, between the mouth of Godkin Creek and
Mountaineers’ Camp, 2500-3500 feet, on rotten
logs, (Nos. 1, 30).
Kantia succica A. & P.
E, a few miles above mouth of Godkin Creek,
2500 feet, on rotten log and in damp woods,
(No. 1).
Kantia trichomanes (L.) G. & B.
E, 7 miles above Humes, 1800 feet, on rotten
log in woods, (No. 4).
Lepidozia reptans (L.) Dum.
FE, on rotten logs in woods, 7 miles above
Humes’, 1800 feet, (No. 4); and near the
mouth of Godkin Creek, 2300 feet, (No. 76).
Blepharostoma trichophyllum (L.) Dum.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 20).
Ptilidium californicum (Aust.) U. & C.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, (No.49), and a few miles
below it, (Nos. 21, 4), 2000 feet, on bark of
trees in damp river bottom. Q, H, on trees,
5000 feet, (Nos. 39, 75).
Diplophyllum taxifolium (Wahl.) Dum.
E, on soil, 2500-4000 feet, (Nos. 9, 31, 57).
QO, H, on wet rocks, 5000 feet, (Nos. 20, 36).
The Mountaineer, Vol. I. Plate 32
PULSATILLA OCCIDENTALE, THE COMMON
MOUNTAIN ANEMONE
iy
ive ‘
if ¢ ba
4 an
4 r
c \ , wed aus
*84.
FED:
*{86.
*87.
88.
rey.
zor:
ae PR
eS.
The Mountaineer 127
Diplophyllum albicans (L.) Dum.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 19).
Scapania curta (Mart.) N. ab E.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on rocks thinly covered with
soil, (Nos. 52, 85).
Scapania subalpina Dum.
Along west fork of Elwha River, west of
Mountaineers’ Camp, 5000 feet, on rocks,
(No. 12).
Scapania undulata (L.) N. ab E.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (Nos. 35, 47).
Scapania bolanderi Dum.
E, near mouth of Godkin Creek, 2500 feet, on
rotten log, (No. 70); also on_ soil-covered
rocks near Mountaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet,
(No. 57):
Scapania umbrosa (Schrad.) Dum.
E, about 7 miles above Humes, on rotten log
in river bottom, 1800 feet, (No. 4).
Scapania sp.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 88).
Radula complanata (L.) Dum.
FE, between Anderson’s and Camp Elkhorn,
1000-2000 feet, on Maples and Alders, (Nos.
17, 50, 61, 89); on soil among rocks, west of
Mountaineers’ Camp, 5000 feet, (No. 11);
QO, H, 5000 feet, on damp rocks, (Nos. 16, 32).
Radula bolanderi Gottsche.
E, 7 miles above Humes’, 1800 feet, on living
Alnus oregona, (No. 13); near Mountaineers’
Camp, 4000 feet, on_ soil-covered rocks,
(No. 57).
Porella rivularis (Nees) Trevis.
E, on trees and damp rocks, at Camp Elkhorn,
2000 feet, (No. 83); near mouth of Godkin
Creek, 2500 feet, (No. 86); along north fork
of Elwha River above Mountaineers’ Camp,
4000 feet, (No. 60).
128 The Mountaineer
94. Porella navicularis (Lehm. & Lindenb.) Lindb.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, on trees,
(No. 89); along north fork above Mountain-
eers’ Camp, 4000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 14).
This is one of the most conspicuous and com-
mon of the liverworts in western Washington,
in low altitudes.
*95. Frullania nisquallensis Sulliv.
E, bark of trees, in damp places, near Humes’
house, 1200 feet; at Camp Elkhorn, 1200-
2000 feet.
ANTHOCEROTACEAE
*96. Anthoceros fusiformis Aust.
Along north fork of Elwha River about half
mile from Queets-Elwha Pass, 5000 feet, on
springy soil, (No. 68); Q, H, 5000-5500 feet,
on wet soil, (Nos. 29, 66).
MOSSES.
SPHAGNACEAE (Peat Moss Family).
*97. Sphagnum squarrosum Pers. A Peat Moss.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on springy soil in meadow,
(No. 589). E, about 4 miles above the mouth
of Godkin Creek, in swamp in bottom, 2500
feet; (No. 522):
ANDREAEACEAE
*98. Andreaeu crassinervia Bruch.
In Queets-Elwha Pass, 5500 feet, on rocks,
(No. 599). Mixed with the following species.
*99. Andreaea blyti Schimp.
In Queets-Elwha Pass, 3500 feet, on rocks,
(No. 580); also Q, on rocks dividing Humes
Glacier at its base, 5500 feet. Smaller than
A. crassinervia. This is a Greenland species.
*100.
101.
*102.
SEOS:
*104.
*105.
106.
107.
The Mountaineer 129
DICRANACEAE
Dicranella cerviculata Schimp.
FE, along north and middle forks, 4000 feet, in
rock crevices, (Nos. 503, 586). Q, H, 5500
feet, on thin soil over rocks, (No. 628).
Dicranum fuscescens Turn.
E, between mouth of Godkin Creek and Moun-
taineers’ Camp, 2800 feet, on tree bases and
logs, (No. 462). This is quite common to
3000-4000 feet, and is a common low altitude
moss in western Washington.
Ceratodon minor
E, 2 miles above Humes, on soil in burned
woods, 1300 feet, (No. 517).
POTTIACEAE
Barbula vinealis Brid.
E, about 5 miles above the mouth of Lillian
Creek, on wet, sandy soil of river bank near
water line, 1500 feet, (No. 616).
Tortula ruralis (L.) Ehrh.
E, in orchard between Anderson’s and Humes’,
1000 feet, on rocks, (No. 495).
Tortula aciphylla B. & S.
QO, H, 5500 feet, on rocks, (No. 601).
Encalypta ciliata Hoffm.
E, between Anderson’s and Humes’, on log
in bottom, 1000 feet, (No. 494); also along
west fork of Elwha River, west of Mountain-
eers’ Camp, on soil, 6000 feet, (No. 588).
QO, H, 5500 feet, on soil, (No. 607).
GRIM MIACEAE
Scouleria aquatica var. nigrescens Kindb.
E, about 5 miles above the mouth of Lillian
Creek, 1800 feet, on submerged rocks in the
river, (No. 570). This is a coarse black moss
rather common in clear water of rapid rocky
streams of Washington.
130
108.
*1109.
*110:
a! Oy
112.
13;
*114.
115)
*116.
Ad7;
The Mountaineer
Grimmia apocarpa var. rivularis W. & M.
E, about 3 miles below Camp Elkhorn, on
rocks in river near low water line, 1500 feet,
(No. 608). Q, H, on rocks, 5000 feet,
(No. 504). |
Grimmia apocarpa var. alpicola (?) H. & T.
E, about 3 miles below Camp Elkhorn, in
flowing water, on rocks, 1500 feet, (No. 519).
Grimmia muehlenbecku Schimp.
E, between Anderson’s and Humes’ in an old
orchard, on rocks, 1000 feet, (No. 584); also
4000 feet along west fork, west of Moun-
taineers’ Camp, on rocky soil of talus slope,
(No. 486); and north of Mountaineers’ Camp,
along north fork, on rocks, (No. 621).
Grimmia montana B. & S.
QO, H, 5500 feet, on soil-covered rocks,
(No. 618).
Rhacomitrium aciculare (L.) Brid.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, on rocks near
water level along river, (No. 595); near
Mountaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet, on rocks in
streamlet, (No. 560).
Rhacomitrium varium (Mitt.) L. & J.
E, about 5 miles above the mouth of Lillian
Creek, 1800 feet, on rocks in river at low
water level, (No. 576).
Rhacomitrium nevi (Muell.) Wats.
FE, along north fork, north of Mountaineers’
Camp, 4500 feet, on dry rocks, (No. 470).
Rhacomitrium heterostichum (Hedw.) Brid.
Q, H, 5500 feet, on dry rock, (No. 530).
Rhacomitrium sudeticum B. & S.
Q, H, on rocks 4500-5500 feet, (Nos. 574, 603,
617?).
Rhacomitrium canescens
FE, north of Monutaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet, on
rather dry soil, (No. 606).
118.
wees
*T1Z0.
week.
122.
sa A
*124.
sl Ase
F120.
The Mountaineer B33
Rhacomitrium canescens var. ericoides B. & S.
E, observed near mouth of Godkin Creek,
(No. 506), and about Mountaineers’ Camp,
(Nos. 575, 587, 1906), 2500-5000 feet, on dry
rocky or sandy soil. Q, H, on rocky soil, 5500
feet, (No. 600). This is a common form on
similar soil at low altitudes in the Puget
Sound region.
Rhacomitrium canescens var. lutescens Brid.
E, between Anderson’s and Humes’, in orchard,
on rocks, 1000 feet, (No. 582).
Rhacomitrium canescens var. muticum Kindb.
E, west of Mountaineers’ Camp, on rock talus
slope, 5000 feet, (No. 605).
Rhacomitrium patens (Dicks.) Hueb.
E, at Mountaineers’ Camp, on dry rocks, 3500
feet, (No. 592). Q, H, on rocks, 5500 feet,
(Nos. 555, 625).
ORTHOTRICHACEAE
Zygodon lapponicus B. & S.
Q, H, 5500 feet, on rocks, (No. 615).
Orthotrichum papillosum Hampe.
EK, at Camp Elkhorn, 1800 feet, on trees,
(No. 490).
FU NARIACEAE
Funaria hygrometrica
E, from sea-level to Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet,
on dry soil. This is the most common moss
on soil within a few years after a forest fire.
MNIACEAE
Mnium subglobosum
QO, H, 5000 feet, on wet soil, (No. 562).
Mnium glabrescens
E, near mouth of Godkin Creek, 2500 feet, on
soil near river, (No. 544).
132
The Mountaineer
127. Mnium venustum Mitt.
E, sea level to Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, on
soil and trees in river bottom, (Nos. 577, 596,
598).
RHIZOGONIACEAE
128. Rhizogonium menziesu (Muell.) Mnium men-
‘giestt Muell.
E, in bottom, about 5 miles above the mouth
of Lilliam Creek, on rotten log, 1800 feet,
(No. 488). This is a common moss on logs in
very damp woods, in the low altitudes of west-
ern Washington. I have heard it popularly
called the palm-tree moss.
AULACOMNIACEAE
129. Aulacomnium androgynum (L.) Schwaegr.
E, on logs in woods in drier regions, from
Port Angeles to Humes, sea-level to 1000 feet.
This is a very common low altitude moss, and
is by far the most common bearing gemmae.
BARTRA MIACEAE
*130. Bartranua ithyphylla (Hall) Brid.
lac
moe
E, along west fork west of Mountaineers’
Camp, 5500 feet, on soil among rocks of talus
slope, (No. 505). Q, H, 5500 feet, on wet
rocks, (No. 579).
Philonotis fontana_ Brid.
EB, (Nes, \(' 471,485; S00): 626). sand) VO:
(No. 565); 2500-5500 feet, along borders of
alpine riverluts. This is one of the most
conspicuous mosses of these altitudes. It is
light green, and often marks the course of
riverlets by its light color so they can be
traced through the grass at a distance of ap-
proximately a hundred yards.
POLYTRICHACEAE
Catharinea undulata (L.) W. & M.
E, near the mouth of Godkin Creek, 2300 feet,
miss.
*134.
mba5.
wi 36.
137.
=138.
igo!
The Mountaineer 133
on clay soil, (No. 581). This is a common
form on clay of uprooted trees in low altitudes
in western Washington.
Oligotrichum incurvum (Huds.) Broth.
E, along west fork at base of Mt. Queets, 4000
feet, on soil, (No. 526).
Polytrichadelphus lyallui Mitt.
E, near Mountaineers’ Camp, 3500-4500 feet,
on dry rocky soil of meadows, (Nos. 469, 473,
483, 564). Also on summit of Mt. Olympus,
alt. 8200 feet, on rocks, (No. 624). Rather
common in the locality, largely taking the
place of the Polytrichums. It is found only in
high altitudes in western Washington.
Pogonatum contortum (Menz.) Lesq.
E, about 4 miles above the mouth of Godkin
Creek, on rather damp clay soil in bottom,
2600 feet, (No. 525).
Pogonatum capillare (Rich.) Brid.
E, along west fork, west of Mountaineers’
Camp, 4500 feet, on dry soil of rocky meadow,
(No. 611).
Pogonatum alpinum var. arcticum
E, west of Mountaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet, on
dry soil of meadow along west fork, (No. 479).
QO, H, on wet soil, 5500 feet, (No. 528); and
in crevices of damp rocks, 5000 feet,
(No. 509).
Polytrichum piliferum Schreb.
E, along west fork, 4000 feet, on dry soil of
thin meadow, (No. 510). ©, H, 5500 feet, on
dry soil, (No. 590). On the summit of Mt.
Olympus, 8200 feet, on rocks, (No. 553).
Leaves with whitish hair-tips.
Polytrichum juniperinum Willd.
This common moss of low altitudes was not
noticed above Camp Elkhorn, at 2000 feet, but
134
140.
141.
142.
143.
*144.
145.
146.
*147,
*148.
The Mountaineer
occurs from there, (No. 475), down to sea-
level at Port Angeles.
FONTINALACEAE
Fontinalis neo-mexicana
E, 4 miles above Godkin Creek, in streamlet,
2600 feet, (No. 585).
NECKERIACEAE
Neckera douglasi
E, from MacDonald’s Bridge to Camp Elk-
horn, 300-2000 feet, on trees. This is a com-
mon low altitude form in very damp ravines in
western Washington. Leaves acute.
Neckera menziesu
E, near Humes’, 1000 feet, on trees. This is
common in very damp woods in low altitudes
in western Washington. Leaves obtuse.
LEUCODONTACEAE
Antitrichia curtipendula Brid.
FE, in the gorge of Lillian Creek near its
mouth, on living Tsuga heterophylla, about
1400 feet, (No. 515).
Antitrichia californica Sull.
E, on trees in bottom between Anderson’s and
Humes’, 1000 feet, (No. 496).
Porotrichum bigelowi (Sull.)
FE, along north fork, north of Mountaineers’
Camp, 4000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 1876).
LESKEACEAE
Heterocladium heteropteroides
QO, H, 5000 feet, on rocks, (No. 501).
Heterocladium heteropteroides var. filescens Best.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on rocks, (No. 502).
Claopodium bolanderi Best.
FE, on dry rocky soil; along north fork, 4000
feet, (No. 630); along west fork, 5000 feet,
(Ne: 563). OQ, By S000) feet!) on rocks:
(No. 512).
The Mountaineer, Vol. I. Plate 33
PrRLOX ON MT. Queers
Copyright Woy BY
ROMANS PHOTO Co,
PHLOX DIFFUSA. MOUNTAIN PHLOX, GROWING IN HIGH ALTITUDES
¢ 149,
152.
e155.
*156.
15s.
158.
The Mountaineer 135
Claopodium crispifolium
E, near the mouth of Godkin Creek, on tree
trunks, 2300 feet.
Pseudoleskea atrovirens B. & S.
E, along north fork, north of Mountaineers’
Camp, 4000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 499).
Pseudoleskea rigescens Lindb.
E, along north fork, north of Mountaineers’
Camp, 4000 feet, on bark of dead Alnus ore-
gona, (No. 480).
HYPNACEAE
Camptothecium lutescens B. & S.
E, on trees near Humes’, 1000 feet, (No. 561) ;
also at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, (No. 594) ;
also along west fork west of Mountaineers’
Camp, on soil, 5000 feet, (No. 487).
Camptothecium nuttallu var. tenue Kaindb.
EB, at Camp ‘Elkhorn,| 2000) feet, on trees,
(No. 493).
Camptothecium megaptilum
This fine large moss of higher altitudes was
seen in E, about 2 miles above Lillian Creek,
1500 feet, on soil. It often grows with
Hylocomium: robustum and so it was here.
Brachythecium albicans B. & S.
QO, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 543).
Brachythecium lamprochryseum Kindb.
E, at Camp Elkhorn, on soil in dry sandy
bayou, 2000 feet, (No. 597).
Brachythecium rutabulum B. & S. (?)
E, near the mouth of Godkin Creek, 2500 feet,
on soil in bottom, (No. 545).
Eurhynchium oreganum
E, near Camp Elkhorn, on soil in bottom, 2000
feet, (No. 518). This is our most common
moss at low altitudes in western Washington,
growing on ground, logs, and tree bases, its
136
159,
160.
161.
162.
163.
*164.
* 165:
166.
167.
*168.
The Mountaineer
lateral branches giving it somewhat the ap-
pearance of a long narrow feather.
Eurhynchium stoloniferum
E, near Camp Elkhorn, on soil in river bottom,
2000 feet, (No. 516).
Plagwothecium denticulatum B. & S.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on wet rocks, (No. 513). E,
up to 3000 feet, on logs in damp woods.
Plagiothecium undulatum B. & S.
E, up to Camp Elkhorn.
Amblystegium filicinum De Not.
KE, along north fork, north of Mountaineers’
Camp, 4000 feet, on gravel in dry streamlet,
(No. 542).
Hypnum uncinatum Hedw.
E, about 5 miles above the mouth of Lilliam
Creek, on wet soil near water level on river
bank, about 1500 feet, (No. 520) ; near mouth
of Godkin Creek, 2500 feet, on log, (No. 569).
Hypnum imponens Hedw.
Q, H, 5000 feet, on damp soil, (No. 492).
Hypnum subimponens Lesq.
E, H, 1000 feet, in bottom on trees, (No. 497).
Hypnum circinale Hook.
On logs in woods from near Port Angeles to
Camp Elkhorn, sea-level to 2000 feet.
Hypnum ochraceum Turn.
FE, at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, on soil near
water line of river, (No. 532) ; and along west
fork, west of Mountaineers’ Camp, 4000 feet,
on wet rocks covered with thin soil, (No.
1877). In Q, H, on rocks in damp hollow,
5000 feet, (No. 622).
Hypnum bestu R. & B.
FE, at Camp Elkhorn, 2000 feet, on soil of river
bank near water level, (No. 554).
The Mountaineer 137
*169. Hypnum palustre Huds.
Q, H, on rocks in damp ravine, 5000 feet,
(No. 623).
170. Hylocomium robustum
EK, along west fork, west of Mountaineers’
Camp, 5000 feet, on soil, (No. 478); also
about 2 miles above Lillian Creek, 1500 feet.
©, H, 5500 feet; on’ soil, (No. 567). This
occurs only in higher altitudes, 1000 feet and
upwards. It resembles Hylocomium triquet-
rum but is less branched, the leaves not so
much standing out from the stem and more
secund.
171. Hylocomium triquetrum B. & S.
E, from sea-level to 3500 feet, on ground and
logs, in very damp shady woods, (Nos. 461,
529, 572, 591). A common moss in wet
hollows in western Washington, coarse, large-
leaved, not much branched.
172. Hylocomium loreum B. & S.
E, from sea-level to 3500 feet, habitat same as
Hylocomium triquetrum, but moss not so
abundant, and plants only about half as wide,
(Nos. 459, 489).
173. Hylocomium splendens
E, in damp hollows on ground and logs, from
sea-level to 3500 feet; broad, much-branched,
with new years’ growths always from the
upper side of the old stem at about its middle.
SUMMARY
Of the plants collected, any which may be new are
either not yet definitely settled as such, or are not yet
named or described; they are therefore not included in
the list. Concerning the 173 listed, 114 have not before
been reported from the Olympic Mountains; of these,
138 The Mountaineer
5 are algae, 1 is a fungus, 27 are lichens, 39 liverworts,
and 42 mosses; 15 are known from no locality in Wash-
ington other than the Olympic Mountains; of these, 1
is a lichen, 12 are liverworts, and 2 are mosses; 9 were
not before known to occur in Washington; of these, 1
is a lichen, 6 are liverworts, and 2 are mosses; 4 have
not before been found in America; of these, 1 is a
lichen, and 3 are liverworts.
THIRD ANNUAL OUTING OF THE MOUNTAIN-
EERS ON MOUNT RAINIER.
The Third annual outing of the Mountaineers,
planned for the last two weeks of July and the first
week of August, will be to the north side of Mount
Rainier. The club will visit Spray Park, Moraine
Park and Grand Park, and will make the ascent from
the northeast side. The region to be visited is the
wildest and grandest part of the Rainier National Park,
and the parks are the largest and most beautiful of the
many on this mountain. Spray Park alone, contains
nearly 20,000 acres and is a great open area of grass
and flowers, broken by groves of mountain trees.
Professor Flett, who made the ascent of the northeast
slope of the mountain, says that it is far easier than the
southern route past Gibralter. The ascent of Rainier
is difficult only because of the altitude reached, 14,363
feet. The mountain is the next to the highest in the United
States, and being in the northern part, carries a very
heavy mass of snow and ice. This forms the greatest
glacial system in the United States. An opportunity
will be given to visit three of these great glaciers, the
Mowich, Carbon, and the White, while those who wish
to join the knapsack trips, will visit nearly every glacier
on the mountain. At the close of the outing, a small
party will make a knapsack trip from the camp at the
base of White Glacier, to Paradise Park and Indian
The Mountaineer, Vol. I. Plate :
3h
MOUNT RAINIER FROM CRATER LAKE
The Mountaineer 139
Henry’s Hunting Ground, on the southeast side of the
mountain. This will enable those who wish to make the
circuit of this great mountain, to do so without any
great hardship, as it will be necessary to carry only
three days provisions at any one time.
The outing is planned for three weeks, and this
time will be crowded, in seeing the many beautiful places,
but those who can be away for only two weeks can
join, planning to come to the first camp and go out
before the outing is over, or they can come to the second
camp and stay to make the ascent of the mountain.
The party will leave Seattle about the middle of July,
starting at 8 o’clock in the morning over the Northern
Pacific to Fairfax. From here the party will walk to
camp in the forest, on the bank of Evans creek, a dis-
tance of ten miles. At this camp the club will begin
furnishing meals, and will continue this throughout the
outing. The second day’s walk will be ten miles, to the
main camp in Spray Park, where the party will stay
for one week. From here they will go across Carbon
Glacier to some camp near the White Glacier, where
the second main camp will be established, and from
which the ascent will be made.
The expense of the outing has not been determined
as yet, but will probably be $45.00. Applications have
already begun coming in, and while no reservations
have been made, the applications will be considered in
the order of their receipt. Until further notice, no money
deposit is required on applications, and all applicants will
be notified when a deposit is necessary.
ASAHEL CURTIS,
Chairman Outing Committee.
The Mountaineer
140
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The Mountaineer 141
A LIST OF MOUNTAIN PEAKS AND ALTI-
TWDES OF THE STATE OF
WASHINGTON.
Mountain. County. Authority. Elevation.
Abernathy Pk Okanogan..... TOEMISE (GRRS aia Bras eee 8,300
PN GAINS) Scietsc aes 5 Adams tire eles WS Sa uGrnSuscareteiots ete stele 12,470
RSPAS kay dala ic kare. oy & ststsvdualens eefetete INOW Erans. “Surv... <i - 7,623
YO 1G 1 A KGtitaS jolene srr We Se Ge ee ears ec avete fa 4,489
LLU) SS a Wattitas. eee. USGA Seine estos ralets 6,265
Anderson ....... Jefferson...... TO PS SRGIS AY SA S58 Sy 7,650
DANTIITTED Cie) vats ave wah er’e Okanoran sar oso Gralvousstersare staiasto 6,056
AMTEZOIES! | elon. < Save Clallam ieee: ORS: PG Se aie eherekevere tetera s 6,750
Atanum Ridge... Yakima....... LUA SoG ge tstd GAG CORIO 3,369
HOON ye vie/byolelele Douglass ceue Wt Sih Gas Bee eroravavetsielais 4,145
IBA) 2 aR Big es ae Whatcom..... Wey Ste Gi GaiSen ake skis 10,827
Al dne cs et vacie ce IDG; setines Made UES SGU ae Slats a 6,946
BENG See ae Bee NMC eit aASue metals SUS SIGE Sioa siete avaiess 5,737
TE EO GY oe ee Re Snohomish WE SHiGa Sate hs iaiatekatenters 4,773
1842) ko Les ener ieee Wialkimarscrctctee LOSS h(E S OS RE ARP es eee ien 6,100
1S) 5 hil See enone Chelanis. 3c. EAS ee Grats wartitshelecsiorerene 6,432
Baweriman Ridge Whatcom..... WE SHE GauiSusk siecsteisene 8,000(?)
Bear Creek ..... Makimanan sacs WSs Gear Satie stele «:.ctarate ooo
IBCAT I A ccna nets Vakdmar s-7c We Sor GasaiGustaersistereeergiets 5,482
Bear’s Breast....Kittitas....... Ws Sx Gr Saas a sers Fens 7,400
Bearpaw Butte. MKGGtItAS- Kan see) NU al Crease hetelel steiehs lens ye 5,139
Bearhead Mt.....Pierce........ U. S. Engineer Corps.. 6,400
IB | OUT Ba ee bce Snohomishi;.)0. Wis «Sop Ga pane ciatar oie! - 6,120
SISHOLTN clave'e/cfeielora VV ACCOMM cioinor We ay) Grad Snel stalaicreistaraic/ +l - 8,250
Bic Peak soos ciao oX AKUMA 2) .1s) 25 0 « WSS GSAS peas, oe 5,900
Biz SHOW!) «2 -'</-n RGU Ae averaiaate Sa Ga Steicnnciserciacr eset 6,670
BIndian een wat oaraals Veins Ae oeee URS Ga Skaenuceeisiclels) 3 4,300
ISTO AT Re ers cytes ie Yiakamean ees. «c NO RSS HE ACH AS Bec oiGiceencrer 7,600
BAG Kae a etatoreciers oc Snohomish). 2 JUeuSs (Garena siecle src 7,192
Bodie Manhattan.Okanogan.....U. S. G. S............. 213
Bonaparte ...... OkanOSANeys stew Wie aren cetaneatelaiar cys ets 7,280
IBOOKCE eases Chelan. 32). LOPS MAC Si Ait ee Se 8,200
Boston) Pes. 3:2 Skaeity 232 oo Wis Ss GeiSe visas sce: 8,850
BT OGG Maisie cicle TNS To cys BUR ar er he UT eS ee Geen creche ie or 5,685
IUGR ele thao e vey ehal Okanogan..... LO ads CNIS EOFs Sneaeneee 6,170
1E3UYC) ch PR A a Okanorana tcp US Si GansSun tent saletesic's ss 8,400
Buckhorn 263). <2\- Okanogan..... LO aes Hal CANIS hau ee aa pone 5,400
Bullgrouse Ridge.Yakima....... TUR SSH Gupte aioe S¥ote ciate seh 4,700
Madety PR sho SSMOMOMMSD 5 oct oi Way Sons xe salel vera io eceiarajeeane 7,100
Ganltaniiiaaaaecas Spokane...... ONS ernest yl Gn Gye Uae ctitle tozaite. chai oie 5,808
WanSOnvnn. sae os Spokane...... MOG SEG tS sb ark dispels aaa ciate 5,200
Castle esos Scere Pierce eins sor We Ser Gai Ses ait eeia bra 6,700
Castle Rock..... Chelan’; ./2é. 4: We Sh iGo Ske ies aa etek 8,300
Cathedral Pk....Whatcom..... U.S. Engineer Corps 8,000(?)
Cathedral Rock.. Kittitas....... WUE SPiGaisr ta eee 6,700
142
The Mountaineer
Mountain. County. Authority. Elevation.
CAVMSe aes elo Okanogan..... WSS GSS. oie aha leis 2,650
Chair kee ales 1 GLO get A Ue So Ge ees sie 5,400
CHATHEIM ai sroredi ohare ase ee tara ay sis US Si Cu eGe iS yiitoctsiel. 2,110
Chelan Butte ...Chelan........ | kar = NTE Boa ao CL 3,892
Chewelah Pie eictseeis aceite Wi PrangtSuryviseves ca 5,748
Chimney Rock.. cori Bua wpa CT ae Ge SN YA eltetetl en aiken 7,727
Chiwawa ....... CHETAN= SO. 5 MO ess hore Mesias ieee malice eho nle 8,300
Whopakay oeeieisiey Okanogan..... Te ese Gree Sehr ens ante talk anata es 7,870
Clark (Pei Okanogan) ii) A SMG eo ele avec latehaton epee 7,900
Cleman ..... Appa ge: 8 carta at: Raw aa Ya AGT SR SS iv A 2 3,497
Cleveland ....... Ramee yele vera SIG see eer ea ys 5,301
Bo): 1 WAV ER AER Skasityys ce 3: 1 Os Sais Oh Se OR Ee 4,317
Columbia Pk.....Snohomish TSENG ange ae 7,134
COLITIS Ek NUN ys kN IN VETansi SUPVes sd ceeeteue 1,917
Constance ...... Jefferson..... SUC GEN SUL eo 7,777
Constitution Islan ear WS Se Cire Genie hase. 2,428
COOKER Wm tad GLE eile eles WO SiG Ske Nave ve 5,097
Cooper) ade ese Okanogan..... UES Go Sick hearse 5,800
Copper see saiiee BOTY ch eaceictets 1G FI SHE Eee S Me Re 4,446
Copper yee waies Jefferson..... WS GG o a et Ae 5,000
Courar yiseasidaas Chelane yeni: FO Sts CAM SAE Rin eI ie eb 6,700
Cowiche ........ VWakimas wii. UE SiGe SUAS See aaiae 4,300
WOPAMOR eset Lewis-Yakima.U. S. G. S............. 5,900
Crested Buttes...Snohomish....U. S. G. S............. 5,326
Crosby Mieas nee PN ete USSG MS Sea alse aid lore 5,533
Crown Piss aoe Yakima in: SaaS HN Ee ed eal ah Rym aR 6,470
Cumberalnd ..... Okanogan..... LD BRAS CLS SEA EMP id 3,846
ae) i Ae San Juan [ste Ui Si Cece Gis Susyeia ane 1,086
Deadhorse Hill...Yakima....... TI So Gee de ei ae 3,900
IDf=sah eh dame ye aeNy Bh a ke NP I UG SFI CSUs ey 5,400
Diamond Butte...Yakima....... LORS Hop Cher sa eT oe oar a 5,796
Dickerman }.(./s'.) .Snohomishy 22 We 1S.) GuSeaseee seere ste 5,766
WDirty PACs) sla elles: Chelan... 3.23 ES GE Ss aa aa Ae ka ok, 6,200
DomevPRy 5 42)s)4 ss Chelan-Skazits Ww SoG Sse he yee. ois. 8,860
WOMeVE Re es s)he Yakima ovcevcy LOR SI Cab SEER Ep eneis ai 6,586
Douzlaswewe is 4 Okanogan..... AR Sk CHS ARE TK 5,240
Drammen); 3!) 32). Perryy. s/t TAN pei Gores mss ais euenslistsusiny ottate 3,459
Dumpkey .......Chelan....... A SS Gripioslelolestateleietehase 4,000
Dunlap ‘Butte... ..Whitman.')::,U. Si G. S.:..l........ 3,850
Hagley sis Pierce 2085 U. S. Engineer Corps.. 6,004
Ellemehan ...... Okanogan..... LOEB SH Eats ease EAL P 4,770
BLIMP V3 sie ...Jefferson..... RSS Cie | GS Se seen 6,500
cortices 2 a5 ads) thas hate ee ee Ni Erans Surveys eee 1,831
Fellow's (Divide sii. ek es ts NEV Pewee See Ass 2,551.
LOS i pe atcetdeimes Makimaunys unis TE Sy GSS er WN a 5,900
UT ea a, Okanogan..... TS Seo Graisse biaieaetenans i ietatoes 5,666
Ritehe Divides eyo cua akc ay INS PE CR Wry a tas 2,587
Flag Pree yneys Snohomish: 422-0. SUiGsSie esse jews. 6,500
Piraileyy Nass awa wes SKALIE-SNON he SU SiG laneiaictens (ene euetelle 2,795
Post iy ian wine Kittitas 4) 228 NS Gee hie eee a Sian 5,750
Garhield ei. 1 Gs aL Sree OTE STN CMs MINS ates ryetes His 5,500
Cartan. cu ReteIE oi liu ok 1 OP Sy E20) Hie ORM R aT ESS ag 7,545
Gibralter) iis MOTT VM aaleieivealaie LB RATS SM 6 ears SUA PSA 3,783
Gibson’s Divide.............:.. INP Rey ee dee eile aves 2,711
The Mountaineer, Vol. I. Plate 35
FAYE PEAK
The Mountaineer 143
Mountain. County. Authority. Elevation.
Glaciate Butte...Yakima..... US er Geese sees 5,400
Glacier Pk. ..... Snohomish tay Woe) Gre) aerials siete s alate 10,436
MEPL Wis talevetev ace’ es si'elo) MLPTIEAS Jaye REG Fane cets. ave lolelas a's 6,500
GOAE (isle ticlersleie Se CORAM OSAMA hak Mla ee Gren oon ele trevalelefovanat 5,290
Goat Butte....... Yakima..... Metesat: Ges) ait s Aisa s giaa e 7,487
Groat Pe ailesle s. Wittitas 23. a). ORY ESEY COONS UR Ta ae 5,100
‘Ce ipl 2d oh Malcimalsncco LOR SS VCC AES PUR RAE RAL ANS 6,494
OIG ee Seiaietee are Snohomish se eon Gren istesrerekelaissersievetene 3,493
GOLGI Nee SOLLY) <i cles seere ESI Gens Ry sa lolale ataiererets 3,200
Gola Bi. yeiss.0.0;¢ OKANOGAN tec Wise Get rtaiticleiclsveler ars 4,620
“Evo ET als 10 DRA aes Nalin aerer te RS Gree os ahos aleve tacos aves snes 6,254
Goose Egg....... Yakima..... LOBSUS ial CRUST UR RUN RES Te 4,500
EPAATIUC Te oSe)/cioie's ee MELryons scien LO aks Ha Cars a aca 5,326
ES TATU ise) aiaierecoe WEEE io'o oes SGN e sore a aie yeild ve 5,912
GEDA EH cane Aa eta RIN 2 erecta SONG RES SM Lite beratvataie 5,820
Granite Buttes 5. W LEMMA 25): GU isan Gre eae erereysialeley aa) alehe 2,930
ETAVE UVP OING ee atc wee ercveeeralens INOUE Wayren ibis e erexsiorts voles 1,931
GLEON jersineisteaiete rcs Snohomish s 7 UNIS) Gaiescn sve ciesele cl tens 5,957
NE PLTTEN relat caeraieisiele withasiaatereyers ts Oe SUA Seat tas ersten erolans 6,245
Gove ve Ke... ts s\e co RNS Seats SER GUS eR i chev tate site 4,500
15 CT A cs A SNohomish e323 Grn see sie esses eles 5,464
EL UPDVaviciate: b ivatelo ore Okanosan Wey we Gra ue ate ale aie laa sate 2,700
Hardscrabble ....Ferry...... Re OS ALOT CEES RON AG DUR a 5,326
PEAT VAT © h)sitiers/sieie Okan OS AM state seen Grav soon siavesecspeitelehevs's 4,100
Helena UPR. skh STOBOHIISH WU isaiGral sacle lc eeoaielote iets 5,392
sb b--¢-) 1 SPkaAe ES set 1 Bisa S ERIE She Teed at tare 5,202
Hoebacke, a Pierce-Vake ls Wo Si (GaiSeylae sieia sel 6,700
Horseshoe ...... IDG) AOR MSG risusieveynisletel elas 5,414
Horseshoe ...... KAN OLAS st.) ee iGral mole clots a etaraleneys 7,500
Hozomeem ...... Whatcom.....N. Trans. Surv...... 9,000( 7)
Etubbart. PR... '3° Snonomish 5) Wi.) SunGe weeaese seme eis 5.925
Huckleberry ....Kittitas..... Say Gur Saye ee aie 6,200
Fuekleberry. \\.\..5 .ono-skagit. 3. Us) Ss) Gis. cee shane 5,355
TEU Vill he a Sn Na Okanogan's!3 300 (SiG Sie saree oe 5,110
LIne (2. Gagan Ann 0 Mea a SNOVONNSH.'.).\.' Ws Sar Gan eee clos toleteietele is 6,125
MERON A cite kets Mang Sans TRS Gra seinve tare chet ele ts 4,712
ROTM sy shes Sie ees BIOEY YF o's ieee TO Sir Ges tereraretan rete tayeie 4,807
OTIS vale: etelote: Sate SKALLG ei is 1 O Sees fers CS ht a ee 4,886
Lita0) Cy A a Snohomish}s/0(SUs Sy GaSe vireetee cee 5,241
TRU ye ear siete. eke lors SHOMOMMSM.(2)2/e eo Grae eesre late 5 eos eleis 1,085
Tronstone ....... Wakimast).% 7 eas eas CRS Lo aL Balt tats ERA 6,900
Jennie’s Butte...Yakima..... Ut GSE GS eeuaitre bu Gs cragenets 6,300
John’s Butte..... iat aa. o We JSS Gere tices stern 5,918
UUMTINIO Ac hcr acyl) che PSTOMOWMIISH ye ayes | so set Ges nimtoaleteelatete ievevens 5,806
Jungle Butte.....Yakima..... OSG Sek ikdecere sie cise 3,900
Mahispels oo... Spokane..... LD hapa Wn Gave he A te eR 6,905
1eSCE5 FAS Ds hp Co UA RP IN CER Wie ities cere! wo eis 2,608
Kendall Pk...... Kittitas's\,.... 1 UNIS UR GSMS fh A RI A EY 5,300
1081 NSS Se SN VYakinia.) . 2): MTS Geeta tert) sry blehesa'S talte 4,710
Klickton Divide..Yakima..... SN Gre Saree pacer tdi teveilo a 6,687
Klondike Hill....Yakima..... LOPS HA Coy ots Pasa A eee 2,900
Klose Butte..... NG: ce honk: Wee Tt Soi Ga tess eleteveitov arta 2,800
ISPOULEE ii. acisiee COATT SET io rste Uae erety arnt wok oiehel sirel'sl ohajiete take 2,890
Lemanasky ..... Okan OLA. 2 hp sWlonisene Gre wei elenereiecs eae 5,206
144 The Mountaineer
Mountain. County. Authority. Elevation.
WENO i ois eis) pies OTS 2 NS ee DAS HGEaes. ernie ees 5,800
Lictenberg ...... SHOHOMISD SS SUS Gomes sl clere eistee ete 5,920
little Chief¢Pk.... snohomish.) >. U: (SicGuntsaes os vere 5,300
Little Mt. Adams.Yakima...... Uc AS HGS anos ean 6,185
TOUS: faye tevei ters \e eteie ALLO MOMMISH: fore eile cian Crea rere sia ite seer sree 5,109
WOOKOUE We esicietes TGitititasia: ase WS Se GR VSir cate cies 3,440
HOOKOWE ise evel Okanozan:. 2... JU SseGies sehen 5,692
PAVINITITIIES Bec hace wove yenlatstaled fe ens: siatie USS VC GAG Si ae ete 1,560
Manastash Ridge.Kittitas....... Ue SiGe Sie. wees 3,614
MCCOY hei ahateie cs toys QVkanogan..... We SAGs oaks asrameaiele 7,628
WeWoyis? WDIVide).). 2.3 | kietteslsicte es INGA ORWiitat sniereheveiere 2,548.
MeNeil PK.) ..%.. Meat me soar WS AGS ee eval pieies 6,788
Marble wR! iiss. Snohomish ses JUs tse clea aoe 5,156
Maverick Peak...Chelan....... AD USUEGa ES i ier ep ecie ereeae 5,308
Meek’s Table ...Yakima...... WS eG ee rar istetences 5,000
Merchant Pk 0s Snohomish. -oiUs sniGausec carlo cee 5,466
IVICA NGs is yaltis, arelere,s Spokane...... WAS IG SSe A isihersstetereiers 5,200
INGHTOT MP ie colevelese icra eh tenet ketenes WS GewSicsius eerie 6,460
Mukamuk Hill ..Okanogan..... LOM STEAK CBSO eSaieemearS ie er 2 5,100
Mulligan Butte...Yakima....... USGS hGaiSe en eyaeiaeicenle 5,800
Naff Ridge ...... Whitman..... SSE Gai Sires cotati pe nare 3,044
North Navarre..Chelan........ Wier iGan Seale elects 7,900
North (Stare c.ts. Chelangercn.. Wii SMG WASiesiivc choke eames 9,400
Nelson’s Butte...Yakima...... EES WIGAN Bi eiclelee Gexckeretene 7,200
(ORVRVIEE IN ea aia Wakimaee canine US SiGe Sick reat einee 3,113
Old MBaldy: 2.6 OKANOLANG + ).\n'0s enrol eee ene 5,230
OlawiBaldy so sak Okanogan..... WSGSLOGF ESeacie ieee ete 7,870
Old sScapetewsss Yakima. occ UGS GAS Sra cclevedterete 6,642
Old Snowy.....«uewis-Yak.....U. S. G. S..........0.- 7,900
Olympusyeyewice .Jefferson..... NS GE PANE SAC ocd wicias et 8,250
Oval PPK cs eie'e!s OKANOSAM Sep eale pas Gre ele el slicks era renerene 8,800
Palmeny koe Rein see WES Ges Soe lets se aiehote toe 5,000
Peacock -. 2). s.).i5% Okanogan..... ENS GSE ceva terete wheke ors 4,520
Peavine Ridge...Yakima....... IS SHGA ISH etetevarcielearcvelets 4,413
Pick Handley ce Wa kiniawi seo SOS AGUS). steerer 6,390
Pilchuck. eae SHOhOmMISh ky wood Gal sawies cicicicie meres 5,334
Pinegrass Ridge..Yakima....... TOUS GS oh cor acorasehstohete 4,400
Pinnacles Pk.) seigreenniecmicic U. S. Engineer Corps.. 7,200:
Poland Butte....Yakima....... IE SFG San atovebe cretaverers 3,143
AAT OU eceisyaeegsars Snohomishse Seis. Galore 5,670
BADE 0 pis Gane pisses SHOMOMISHS oe Ueno urine isle ereieieaietene 7,156
PyTAMIIG sie. as eee Chelanteerinc cc WS GS eeeeeereee 8,240
PyramidePk.... .< Kane KattitasenUsus- eGousssccie comics 5,723:
Quarezinieee ees: NOEIY vetoes travels UO SaiGa Sich ee cower 4,803
Ranieri sis cee Perce imcnesics We sSsiG. Siac 14,363
Red eg FAA Olli ay a pee ee Me NS GasSi as ce eters 8,100
EVE Misr mren nts Sieleio oI MUCLIUAS Ee reisice Us SAGs Sek tetisiceee 5,707
13 Wei6 ly Mea ape eee Snohomish?3..0U, S.aGe sees screenees 6,930
Red Butte....... Wakimarns oo. TU SMES. ccreecmeneor 7,203
Red Rock ..... AKIN See ccc WiSivGasi.ncet anos 5,000
Red) YEO vices UG RAS [GOA Eee TUS eG Sc ere ehedcgeas 5,200
Remmelieeecens Whatcom..... UW SivGa Sick eeeritee 8,500
ROSE. ee a see Jefferson..... WYSE Geet aisive teks sine 5,000:
Rounds sce... RiseeRelAN es terse UW Si GAS occ itechesiere 4,364
Mountain. County.
ROUTE Pareie clear ele alkamars ct sic U.
leuilonye vis hil Raa aa Okanogan..... 1B).
Russell Ridge ...Yakima....... we
Reynolds Pk.....Chelan-Okan.. U.
Sahale ..... Sass e ORAS Eee yoekore Ue:
SAM GLOMS erase orsiieic aieic lala uletalalel 6 U.
Sawtooth ..... ..Okanogan..... U.
Seott veka ii ie< ot Snohomish....U.
Sedge Ridge..... Yakima see Ue
STW utes icrclc tek PeliGkitateeetacs Uz
SHE CIE cctctniciate e s(oe Snohomish....U.
SHN212)0) SAO DEIOOEOG Chelanis.2¢2.0¢ U.
Sheep Gap...... Snohomish....U.
Shell Rock Pk...Yakima....... Uz
Short & D. Rdg..Yakima....... WE
SUEATE I Bl one a Wakimanaes yee We
Silver Pk. . .King-Kittitas. .U.
SHEVETLOD! tee «cole Snohomish....U.
Skokomish ...... Jefferson...... U.
SIMUIKSAD) (s icie'evee'e Whatcom..... {Uy
SHOAMN pcidieciecte ...onohomish....U.
ISK, ei o8) 6 csi PICT CCL ae ou.
SIDES resis a cyeveleveake Wakimaren cece U.
SNOW DALCD PK. accjorericie es) siskeyelerere U.
Snowplow ...... Malcimary errs U.
Snowshoe Butte .Kittitas......, 10K
Snoqualmie ..... TIES ahesart es U.
Sobriesky PASH it ah ee Oe
South Butte..... WEN ahi ee es We
So. Navarre Pk..Chelan....... Wie
STOUT FRR Ap tole ian conor ee nenee Ws
Spire Point...... Shelan-Ska....U.
SHOT REC RA DI pos [28 NT ee a U.
“Sy toed 2d fe Reet Sages Chelanee hts: U.
Steptoe Butte....Whitman..... U.
Stevens Pk. ..... Spokane...... U.
Stevens ..... tee MPTOLEC Ted oes ws
Stilaquamish ....Snohomish....U.
Stonmel co4 acco) . Jefferson..... Ue
Stratton Butte...Whitman..... aU:
Strawberry ..... Okanogan We
MATIDCOs RN (sicl vaste tahoe ae dot ooUs.
SSUUAT Gr srctesis o Heelan sd siyst oe U.
Sugar Loaf Pk...Chelan....... WE
RSRRILVIN GG tual elevere/s: cistey siete eretwisie aiaccke we
Summit Chief. | _.King-Kittitas. Jue
SUG R Ae eee Skaeitee so: 2s 3 U.
BULIDLG (1 S's) cures areiasai 6 KU CELLAS 3 sts-)ere iW:
TSB cht cle tetaterelgs ace Stevens....... wi
Marheel) sss. so cOKANOZan. «45 Uz.
ILS TION Sives'c¥eh cs ara s*es Jefferson...... iW:
MEKOA) iéiec Scie ....Whitman-Spo.. U.
SLGINDIC! i. 5 ccis.6 Ste ne LWatijalelere ere
The Mountaineer
145
Authority. Elevation.
Sh AGA Bap nolenroae 5,900
PG Soc dateletelevever ste 4,950
SAGES: calasemragarctts 6,200
SG Susie sioeieraasinrene 8,200
Sb Ca SAG eo ir 8,600
SE ACA MES Raeoeiaolorteae 10,000
SSE Geer ic chelelcistes tecuaters 8,400
NSE ret Seichaven s in's aust axel ef 5,300
Sen Gurr Ses aretetesiopy susie 5,200
So GaSe alse issierevereiene 3,620
SiGe Ones aigiveancyelatane 6,120
SUG Soccer slat aveve lee 4,500
Sua Gen Oe siaieya(siale a) site one 5,000
SIGE Searles ctetacevaretete 3,620
SOG Misscia feigtece staherses 6,700
Sh Ree US RA ra ie mien sas
SeriGa Soars cr vaaiene 6,000
ee GS Sitiateehe,ataal efeve 4,869
Ser Gari Secwikoate vies siess 7,500
SaiGausecsecienvers 10,060(?)
Soi Gy tnncisenseccarsere 7,790
S. Engineer Corps.. 6,800
Sie GanSss ates sjerciesern 4,700
SoiGer Sean dgeeeieces 5,900
Sy LG aS es a 5,070
SRG Siac s cts ache 5,139
SS 10 on anata ere 6,000
SHUG Siry chs susiatenvs gies 4,400
SiG Siiaaie sve oars sieke 7,790
SHG Siaiith siete neta o: s 7,800
SitiGarSe. cadences 6,065
SH CES ESRC Ee Deo OIE 8,220
Se Gam Oiateatseciveletes « 1,980
SIGS Oia eStats fais 8,400
SEG Ses cvs shotaeiets, «3 3,615
Son GiuSteliciterniroe. 2 6,900
S. Engineer Corps.. 7,000
SiGe tS ee ste ayels wins 5,683
Si Gr iGreen sicrel- 7,000(?)
Se Gay Se ate sieyat ays 3,300
Si Ga Sacicparatensis (octave: © 4,750
Sr CHeea Gan St patele ese 1,265
SAGAS asters berersusters 9,470
SAGAS sites slater 2 5,840
Si Oo Gey Gr Suirs a acre 2,330
Se GaSe siayivesiwie 8 7,300
S GunSee ise es « aie. 1,000
SiGe tStvecns ssweee.s 6,243
S. Engineer Corps.. 6,600
SAL Ga esecsie aise oes 3,190
BSE Grasinte ots Slsla slchalaieiie.« 5,285
SS Ge Sia eral stolcvale carole 3,954
A eaeh Grea ahive esta tels ielever ele 3,570
SIG SWisrie sites 7,500(?)
146
Mountain. County.
Thompson ...... Kee isiae eletays
Three Brothers..Chelan.......
Three Fingers...Snohomish....
FEN SLOT aia e le hele GRIND Eb yo Sotip sels
MILAN io eal elaleletetes OKANO LRM. aai'sls
Timberwolf ..... Wikia iets
UMD TOD! tiavcr siete tetates Chelaney (sic
TROTOGA His tkael Wee . Okanogan....
Townsend ..... Sealer alata a ie eal te
ALATUG i alehelciene teres vets Okanogan.....
Twin) Buttes ):)..). Yakima.’ :\0...
Twin Peaks
"MVOG Lites ateka ets Chelan. seas
Wesper we kia. Snohomish...
Wil Gani ta cteteets ect INO D TV ye otal oie
Umptanum Ridge.Yakima.......
IWihtsSke yi) iis i's siete Okanogan....
Whitechuck ....Snohomish....
White Horse ....Snohomish....
Whitestone ..... Okanogan.....
Windy Pk.......-Okanogan.....
Wingate Hill....Pierce........
....-snohomish....
The Mountaineer
Authority. Elevation.
Bo GSS 3 2), aime letolauals 6,000
Sf GrcuSire wiste oreiaeisiele 7,370
Bs Une iatetas taletata ocetet 6,845
SAVE alt < eR A RE ot 7,775
SGuiness eorelote a ishetiatels 8,275
BARS ete ela itel siete adele 6,435
BS Gra A veacrreeaa tele a epois 4,813
SG Sai eie cre eletete es ehn 4,621
SS Cas Pa bese» 5,405
SSA Mae stats ctahetaretreee 6,065
SUG Meo trot tats 2,800
BG Sue ei siereia sel sy otal 5,995
Si Gra Saw ste erscietarotate 6,688
SaiGuiipsstaskesielsoitaats 6,190
SAGES ee mate eras 5,200
Si Gr ore ratsieveneueyeteleyete 4,217
SiGe iS ean inate 2,837
Si Gees uae) parce ators 6,935
SoG baeiieteiieevee 6,820
oie utelerenei ey oe rence tote 2,867
Boe) | Grau imreclchvsverotenatetarels 8,345
tS ia C-ralit s aOR ea le 1,800
PROMINENT MOUNTAIN PASSES IN WASHINGTON
Pass. County. Authority. Altitude.
Buck Creek..... Chelan-Snoe Mase i Gripe tells chelate talons 5,796
WAY ew a's clelsieeSTOROMISR este. eur (nese cies ieletols craietain 4,600
Warton eis ale We WIS Vial ice Me cee pra isuicvate cre te lekonanameme 4,100
CASCAGE! s) 0. (slelele Skaeit-Chelam Weise) Gru acisiele wie scsiete 2s 5,392
Cowlitz see Te WAS Wil eaerare Wctissen Grauissetcievevetets auetetalate 5,191
CISDUS ie seleisierelarets he wise Via MS Ge Sirs alee psteleitehe ds 6,473
Dutch Miller Gap.King-Kittitas..U. S. G. S............. 5,050
fe¥s bik: ba ty Aga aa EAD Snohomish. Ui) iSel Ge Sas eerarsve oye eieiete 5,000
Marbletiniu. oie sSRONGMIA Ic eeiieses Gres aecoeseiatslels/sicie 4,170
Meadow ........ (eG hac Gls ets] OP ns Al Clas Baie lates Par Sy 3,700
INACHES a eicleteveys PICTCO-RAT ae Wei a Genser vere nare reeves 4,988
Sentinel Bluffs ..Yakima....... NiV Trans: (Survecceicices 2,292
Snoqualmie ..... Deo SOUR AeA ORS Ge CERIN Bais eee 3,131
Stampede .......King-Kittitas..U. S. G. S............. 3,925
WLEVETISH clove iste eis King-Chelan Uy SoG Sse nae a aoe 4,061
MACOMA NE Nelalelorets RIMS RACTIEAS Ge Ue ise Grek ion cteilere mieneteneysns 3,550
TDWABDI cts errae elevate Okan -Chelan 7 Ue ss (Grieves ieicleel eteyctonene 6,066
White cea Wewis- Waka ays) sics arc sa cisiereveusveral abetstata 4,500
Wind yyiccien roe UM Sn OHOMHS He ele eset Greiesen ate us/cielaielielele 4,170
Weta iiisinvatcleiets JKinge-Kattitas ss. Uses Gui iets: cere iar mclaren 3,500
The Mountaineer 147
ADDITIONS TO BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE MOUNTAINS
OF WASHINGTON.
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The Mountaineer 149
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150 The Mountaineer
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Mountaineer, April, 1907, v. 1, No. 2, pp. 29-34.
HUMES, G. W. A Journey to Mt. Olympus. The Moun-
taineer, April, 07, v. 1, No. 2, pp. 41-42.
LANDES, HENRY. Notes On the Geology of the Olympics.
The Mountaineer, April, 1907, v. 1, No. 2, pp. 36-38.
NELSON, L. A. The Ascent of Mt. Olympus. The Moun-
taineer, Sept., 07, v. 1, No. 3, pp. 65-8.
WEAVER, CHAS. E. Notes On Bed Rock Geology of the
Olympic Peninsula. The Mountaineer, Sept., 07, v. 1,
No. 3, pp. 58-64.
MT. RAINIER.
BASHFORD, HERBERT. Mt. Rainier. American Arthology,
700, pp. 736.
BROOKS, WM. A. With Sierrans and Mazamas, July, ’05.
Appalachia, May, ’06, v. 11, pp. 114-125.
BROWN, H. H. From Surf to Summit. Overland Mo., Nov.,
05, v. 46, pp. 447-455.
COLBY, W. E. Sierra Club On Mt. Rainier. Mazama, Dec.,
HOS se vee. MPD pa banlene
COULTER, JOHN M., and ROSH, J. N. Hesperogenia, a New
Genus of Umbelliferae from Mt. Rainier. U. S. Botany
Div. of Contributions from the U. S. Nat’l Herbarium,
199M Des \20a6
DORR, J. W. Mountain. Babylon, 97, pp. 77-8 (Poem).
EMMONS, S. F. Glaciers of Mt. Rainier. Am. Jour. Sci.
(3rd S.), 1871, v. 1, pp. 161-65.
EMMONS, S. F. Ascent of Mt. Rainier, With Sketch of
Summit. The Nation, Nov. 25, 1876, p. 313.
FAY, CHAS. E. Through Appalachian Eyes. Mazama, Dec.,
05, v. 2, pp. 208-11.
GLASCOCK, RAGLAN. How We Climbed Rainier. Sunset
Mag., Nov., 705, v. 16, pp. 49-55.
The Mountaineer 151
IDDINGS, J. P. Notes on a Rock From Mt. Rainier. 12th An.
RepaiWeis: Gas: OL, Pat ps O12:
LANDES, HENRY. Field Notes on Mt. Rainier. Mazama,
Dec., ’05, v. 2, pp. 220-222.
LYMAN, W. D. Rainier Indian Legends. Mazama, Dec.,
05, v. 2, pp. 203-207.
Also, Washington Mag., Aug., ’06, v. 1, pp. 449-52.
McALISTER, E. H. Professor McClure’s Report relative to
the Altitude of Mt. Rainier. Mazama, Oct., ’00, v. 2,
pp. 34-40.
MEEKER, EZRA. Who Named Tacoma? Address Washing-
ton Historical Soc., Jan, 22, ’04.
METCALFE, GERTRUDE. The Rainier Climb. Mazama,
Dec., 05, v. 2, pp. 224-234.
MONROE, A. S. Climbing Mt. Tacoma. World Today, Oct.,
705, v. 9, pp. 1047-1053.
MUIR, JOHN. Ascent of Mt.Rainier. Pacific Mo., Nov., ’02,
v. 8, pp. 197-203.
ORTMAN, FRANK O. Climbing Mt. Rainier Alone. Wash-
ington Mag., Sept., 06, v. 2, pp. 51-54. '
PARSONS, E. T. Rainier. Mazama, Oct., ’00, v. 2, pp. 25-34.
PIPER, C. VY. Additions and Corrections to the List of Mt.
Rainier Plants. Mazama, Dec., ’05, v. 2, pp. 270-71.
PIPER, C. V. Flora of Mt. Rainier. Mazama, Apr., 1901,
Vv. 2, pp. 93-117.
PLUMMER, FRED G. Mt. Rainier Forest Reserve, Wash-
ington. 22nd An. Rep. U. S. G. S., 1901, v. 5.
PRATT, LOUIS W. Tacoma’s Attraction for the Tourist.
Washington Mag., July, 1906, v. 1, pp. 371-78.
PROSCH, THOS. W. General McCarver Named Tacoma.
Address Washington Historical Soc., Oct. 4, 05. Bound
pamphlet.
RANDALL, MARION. Making of a Sierra Camp. Out West,
May, ’06, v. 24, pp. 396-404.
REDMAN, W. Ascent of Mt. Rainier by Sierras and Ma-
zamas. Out West, v. 24, p. 365.
RICE, GEO. S. Mt. Rainier Coal Fields. Engineering and
Mining Journal, Apr. 6, ’05, v. 79, pp. 660-61.
ROSS, J. E. Land of the Sun. p. 169.
RUSSELL, I. C. Glaciers of Mt. Rainier 18th An. Rep. U.
S. G. S., pp. 349-424.
SHELDON, CAROLINE. To Mt. Rainier. Washington Mag-
azine, Sept., ’06, v. 2, p. 34 (Poem).
SKINNER, C. M. Tamanous of Tacoma—Myths and Legends
of Our Own Land, 1896, v. 2, pp. 242-45.
SMITH, G. O. Rocks of Mt. Rainier, 1898. 18th An. Rep.
U. S. G. S., 796-7, P. 2, pp. 416-23.
STEVENS, HAZARD. Ascents of Mt. Tacoma. Atlantic Mo.,
v. 38, p. 573 (1876).
Changes In Mt. Tak-Ho-Ma. Mazama, Dec., ’05, v. 2, pp.
201-2.
WHEELER, OLIN D. Climbing Mt. Rainier, 1895 (?). Re-
produced in book form from Wonderland, ’95.
WILLEY, D. A. Lure of the Mountains. Putnam’s, July, ’07,
pp. 447-56.
152 The Mountaineer
WILLIS, BAILEY. Canyons and Glaciers: A Journey to the
Ice Fields of Mt. Tacoma, ’83. The Northwest, v. 1, p. 2,
ADT. So.
Mount Rainier and Its Glaciers. Wash. Philos. Soc, Bull.,
1888, v. 10, p. 10.
ST. HELENS.
DILLER, JOSEPH SILAS. Latest Volcanic Eruption on the
Pacific Coast. Science, 1899, n. s. v. 9, pp. 639-40. De-
scribe material from Mt. St. Helens, Washington.
GILE, KATHERINE. Mount St. Helens. il, Mazama, July
1903, v. 2, pp. 125-129. a
Lava Caves of St. Helens. il. Mazama, July, 1903, v. 2,
pp. 134-135,
McALISTER, E. H. Report on the Altitude of St. Helens.
Mazama, July, 1903, v. 2, pp. 123-124.
PARRISH, R. R. M. Mount St. Helens. (see his Echoes
from the Valley. 1884, p. 114-115). Poem.
PLUMMER, FRED G. Diagonal moraine. American Geol-
ogist, 1893, v. 12, pp. 231-2.
Describes a diagonal Moraine occurring on Mt. St. Helens,
Wash,
ROSS, EMILY LINDSLEY. First White Woman On Mt. St.
Helens. Mazama, July, 1903, v. 2, pp. 130-133.
MT. SHUKSAN.
CURTIS, ASAHEL, The First Ascent of Mt. Shuksan. Over-
land. n.s. No. 50, Aug. ’07, pp. 110-118.
Ascent of Mt. Shuksan. Mazama, Mar. ’07, v. 3, No, 1, pp.
27-30.
—Alida J. Bigelow.
‘
THE MOUNTAINEER
VoLuME I—1907-1908
CONTENTS
Page
Altitudes of Mountain Peaks of Washington............. 141
Altitudes of Prominent Mountain Passes of Washington. .146
Ascent of Mount Olympus. L. A. Nelson................ 65
Balser, Mount, See Mount Baler coi) sinics es seicipielelalale
Banks, Mary. Mountaineers in the Olympics, 1907...... 75
Bibliography of Mountains of Washington. Additions to,
Prepared: by. AVida) Ts Bigelowieeia sis cisveseiersleitiele sie sia si sielene 147
Bigelow, Alida J. The Mountaineers’ Ascent of Mount Si. 49
Birds of the High Cascades. Wm. L. Dawson........... 12
PHArter PMembOrss)) VASE NOL ele acu eerste rete ae ecctavahel oer ava isieueiets 26
Wonstiturion’) andy BY-WAWB sy. ies) siaiikus cs ciela ena /elele eievele ce ohaielars 25
Curtis, Asahel. Storm Bound on Mount Olympus........ 69
The First Ascent of Mount Shuksan................... 52
The Mountaineers’ First Ascent of Mount Baker........ 97
Dawson, William Leon. Birds of the High Cascades...... 12
Hayvion Mount Vesuvius: A. Li, Pollock oe sei ees oes 12
Eaton, Dr. C. S. First Aid in the Mountains............ 100
First Ascent of Mt. Baker. A. Curtis.................... 97
First Ascent of Mount Shuksan. A. Curtis.............. 52
Flett, J. B. Observations on the Olympics................ 43
The Seed Plants, Ferns, and Fern Allies of the Higher
Regions of the Olympic Mountains................ 108
OTE WOLEs i) id ARGOS) Sih t a) aseverawielaly)cpiereltstanpicuphe liars svehe RPE
Frye, Theodore C. Thallopytes and Bryophytes from the
EV TTIDIGA isu aire rote taretena te alare ie laietaceteliclahaietersnerelievatiovelevene slate 117
Geology of the Olympic Peninsula. C. E. Weaver....... 58
Hanna, Ina M. Expeditions into the Olympic Mountains.. 29
Harriman, Alice. Mount Baker. (Poem)................ 96
154 The Mountaineer
Page.
HAIStorian’ Ss MROpOTLs:|.\c iia ccs sine eee eae eee 18, 54, 75, 87
Landes, Henry. Notes on the Geography of the Olympics. 36
TOCA Wis HN by OL te eo tse ahehevnte Vata ite eave vetece totale tevetere oes Rickavereiete 28
Lyman, W. D. Mountains of Washington................ 5
MGMmDEns LASTS OL Byte ic cis ais in ehoretcro lei Oe erence ae Merete 26, 28, 55
Mount Baker.” (Poem), Alice; Harriman’ -e)-)ccc cic sili 96
The Mountaineers’ First Ascent of. A. S. Curtis..... 97
Mount Olympus, Ascent of. L. A. Nelson................ 65
Journey stow Gs Wis) ELUMES Ne ceca syerevere ious esta aie) aietereterersavennte 41
Plans forebirst sAnnualwOutingscecic ceimiectsieiectteia cite 20
StormyBounGd Ons eAs Curtis scivtcnsie isis crete orev eisieieneebaiene 69
Mount Shuksan, First Ascent of. A Curtis............... 52
Mount Si, Mountaineers’ Ascent of. A. J. Bigelow........ 49
Mount Vesuvius, A Day on. A. L. Pollock................ 72
Mountain Experience, A. EH. H. Wells.................00% 103
Mountain Passes of Washington, List of Altitudes........ 146
Mountain Peaks of Washington, List of Altitudes......... 141
Mountaineers’ Ascent of Mount Si. A. J. Bigelow........ 49
Mountaineers’ First Annual Outing, 1907. Announcements 45
Mountaineers’ First Ascent of Mount Baker. A. S. Curtis. 97
Mountaineersuine thenOlympicsaeeeeree enero 75
Mountaineer’s Revery. (Poem.) L. Nettleton........... 64
Mountains of Washington. W. D. Lyman................ 5
Nelson, L. A. The Ascent of Mount Olympus............ 65
Nettleton, Lulie. Historian’s Report for 1908............. 87
AY Mountaineers) Revery.e CROC) te.) s sce cise ee ievereieleiete 64
Notes on the Geography of the Olympics. H. Landes.... 36
Observations on the Olympics. J. B. Flett............... 43
Olympus, Mount. See Mount Olympus.
Olympics Mountains. Expeditions Into the. Ina M. Hanna 29
Geology of the Olympic Peninsula. C. E. Weaver...... 58
MaprormherOlympiceResiOmen cts sci ic ctclouetels oferty telcrs ie fereletene 39
MOUNTAIN GSMS HTM io ick ele ee ote leetehane wee ie tora eit ve heneveters or eusybereuowe 75
Notes on the Geography of the. H. Landes............ 36
The Mountatneer 155
Page.
Notes on the Bed Rock Geology of the. C. E. Weaver... 58
Obsenvations- oni thes) J. Be Wletee = cautec were a uiels wales weave 43
Record of Mountaineers’ Ascents in 1907—
MOUR ERB STINGS 5503. a crave diehera abe Tertn elas cies SSCs Cle ae 86
Mite OD TIStie’.i..sti a cia ic che crore cia eer aie te oe eluate & 81
VR GIVI SUNN Ga ts iyus 5. ce oaeviel lon sy coe HREM PAS tide ole neviaties SUIS ah opts ts 81
I ILRD IN (0 (ets RAE A RS Dern rae I OL tT ay US en UE a 81
MitsROLy mp ust eA Ae strcratera na torn eieinte ateranety stolen th erste eracioens 83
VITA CHUECTB sig fai doting rn a tiara orate nia cre latcatae tate aimee 85
MPR Seattle icc wy payee Ts Ca cieae ear atatc in are uaa lake ot rohuemeee 85
Seed Plants, Ferns, and Fern Allies of. J. B. Flett...... 108
Thallophytes and Bryophytes of the. T. C. Frye....... 117
Olympic Outing 1907. Members of Party................ 80
Pollock, Adelaide L. A Day on Mount Vesuvius.......... (2
Record found on the Pass Between the Elwha and the
QTCCtS GIACIS TA! slacks daals) were sre osctalotola eh sieve eta ehe a ee hats 86
Seed Plants, Ferns and Fern Allies of the Higher Regions
of the Olympic Mountains. J. B. Plett............... 108
Shuksan, Mount. See Mount Shuksan.
SER Mounts) 1 SCC MOUNTS Sli ,s cava ies ccdiaralorare slates myc senate a vane
Storm Bound on Mount Olympus. A. Curtis............ 69
Thallophytes and Bryophytes from the Olympics. T. C.
LFEEN (Gh EG CGR OU ne COE ARIE ERE CHEMIE cc PO PAC Zey eSTALE nt 8 maya 117
Vesuvius, Mount. See Mount Vesuvius..................
WEA er ch CNATIES! SHaisicisccnetetn voce ols’ terers ovekeleiaretate eiaveel afave ce tkchere 58
Wells, E. H. A Mountain Experience.................... 103
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a:
November, 1909
RAINIER NUMBER
PUBLISHED BY
THE MOUNTAINEERS
' SEATTLE, WASH.
1909
THE MOUNTAINEER
Vol. LI.
NOVEMBER, 1909
LIBRARY
NEW YorRK
BOTANICAL
GARDEN.
Published by
THE MOUNTAINEERS
Seattle, Wash.
1909
iN iif “W
be a ia ere te se Sia
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my, }) as Lie
a he r bee ii wis
( Di Oe Wy Le
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a rots vi ina iv We - y
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eat ak ie a a iP a
DEC 16 1909
CONTENTS
PAGE
Ob ieatsrote tien Clu Dies coe se, oe oes ee emery nae ee i
Et) Soba OT bese oe si 242. Saad cele Lb Lee pene eee WC eS aD
Edmond 8S. Meany....Frontispiece
Greetings from the President of the Mountaineers................
Bamong, Sa Meany: 2
Greetings from the President of the Sierras........00000000000000...
DORM EM UATE eee oe ELS 3
Mountaineers’ Outing to Mt. Rainier.....2.....2.0..222....e eeeeeeeeee
Aisahel Curtis: 22 eee. ee 4
On Columbia’s Crest................. Maj E. 8. Ingraham................ 13
GarbonuGlacier ..6224 525 .. Ne Edmond 8. Meany..................-- 14
Glaciers of Mt. Rainier............ israel Gu Russel 327 16
Compiled by Alida J. Bigelow.
The Lure of the West.............. EP Wav anne eee. se 25
Flowers of the Mountain........ WACO BAEY Tk A) eee 29
The Dog-Tooth Violet............... Edmond 8. Meany.................-.. 37
Harly Ascents of Mount Rainiers:....:.<2225 st. <202- tes
Maj. ES. ingratam::2......-: 38
Olympic! National Monument). 2 ee ee eee ee ee
Hon. W. HE. Humphrey...........- 41
Eastern Impressions of the Mountaineers....................2.2.222....
KG@therinevReee es ee 43
Mmcdianewbeszends..of Mt, Rainier. 5 yee ee eee
WD) Sey nai ae ees 51
Ro apssck Crip into, spray vPark=....- 23. ee eee
Wayne! Sensemg ree) s. 56
List of Members on Mt. Rainier Outing.........000002222. 59
Oca IW alKSiy-. 2703 eee DUREZNECCULCTON eo ee 61
Table of Local Walks.............. AnnG HOWE eee se 63
RO DOM preteen eet Rie Ae 1 IAM! Bok Bek ies Ry os iaenes ene oe EARN 64
BIplierrapiyuOl Mts Rainier. 20s. Ahh ee ee ea 65
(UNECE VAAZ WYO) 0 tee tee ae ne RPSED PRC Cee aD Some eae LOS ONY TER FOES Gourd US EO CIEE. fil
Reports—
EPO POTE Ol CORO GA Vir ee te A bE ae 72
IeGNOnEnOte Preasurenc: i000 ion tos ee ee 73
Report of Outing Committee—
Oly Dies Owbin es os ee ese ee Es 74
IM Brs 18 Vitey iLO YT h a 00h pe eeeees ete eres oes IP iS te ee eee 75
Migkcainiors Outing sts. ee ys eet A ae 76
Prozram) Gommicvtee, lt 2.5) 2a oe ee eas ee ed Tet
Members vor-the/ Mit. Baker. Outing ...2..0 ist a 78
Fourth Summer Outing of the Mountaineers........................
Asan ele OUnttsy 2s ee 79
MSOVGEUETIET OTs eet ee es ul oe Ba a eee ec Oe ed 80
ILLUSTRATIONS.
EGS Carat Bie orca ed 2, 2a ee eas ee ee oe Re Plate 1
Mountaineer Camp and Moraine Park...................2........ Plate 2
Moraine Park and Sluiskin Mountains............................ Plate 3
Eastern Slope of Mt. Ranier, showing Route to Sum-
pa | eee Lok ae CM ARN cee hi el Smee eT) STE Plate 4
Mt. Rainier from Temporary Camp, showing Route to
Summit ek Ca ae Les aa 2h Ra Plate 5
Beds at! Temporary) Camp. ss 2.5 epee nee eee Plate 6
Dawn at Temporary Camp, above the Clouds................ Piate. 7
Lunching in a Crevasse at 13,000 feet........0002000 2... Plate 8
Liberty Cap. fram ‘Crater: Peals.-...2....24 Plate 9
Crater iol Mt) Rainier 20a tS 1h oe ne es ee eee Plate 10
Mountaineers on the Summit of Mt. Rainier.................. Plate 11
In an Ice Cave under Columbia’s Crest............................ Plate 12
Planting the A.-Y.-P. E. flag inside the Crater............ Plate 13
On the steep slopes of the Upper White Glacier............ Plate 14
Winthrop Glacier, showing St. Elmo Pass.................... Plate 15
Crossing the Winthrop Glacier.........,..........22.....---0--resepe0eee0 Plate 16
Willis Wall, the northern side of Mt. Rainier................ Plate 17
Nose. of' ‘Carbon: Glacier... :.0 oo ai ae at hele Plate 18
Huge Rocks carried down by the Winthrop Glacier....Plate 19
White Glacier, the largest on Mt. Rainier.................... Plate 20
Mountaineers on Inter Glacier, St. Elmo Pass in cen-
ter, Glacier Basin ‘atiright= 2 ee et Plate 21
RUSSO]! ORG aii ia) 20g oa ea TAR ae Beek Oar ees Ee sabe eS Plate 22
SDPAV. MAUS! yotcc SEs UI Fis eae seta race dL IS ee aN -Plate 23
POLY CUTOUT TOM EMU T NT le ese ee Plate 24
Avalanche on Willis Wall falling 5,000 feet................... Plate 25
OME G Oyama Ps oh ee ee ee ee Pe a 2d Plate 26
PR He WES eee ee a Be Se eee Ss Soave Plate 27
Major E. S. Ingraham on St. Elmo Pass................22000....... Plate 28
Gidacien Peak: sii. 45005 ee Eee UN 2 ae Plate 29
ma
The
Mountaineer,
“ii
Vol.
IW
MOUNT RAINIER
Thou king, iv ermine robes of crystal
SHOW,
Lift high thy royal head, serene ane
Bee. proud,
ke >) Disdain the str ess of storm embattled
cloud
That we on earth thy majesty may know.
Thy crown in myriad hues doth glint
and glow —
A lure for some in each swift hurry-
crowd,
Whose hopes are raised and hearts
anew are vowed
To catch, like thee, Gods light and on-
ward throw.
May oe thy imaged grandeur live and
Urry
In brain of men who scan thy glisten-
ing dome,
Who cut the mooring cord and, list-
less, roam ;
Give them the wit to mountain magic
learn:
That lofty heights but type the ragbats #
that yearn
For supreme love in. perfect human
home. }
EDMOND S. Mpany.
Plate 1
Copyright 1909 by Asahel Curtis
MOUNT RAINIER
— Nk aie
THE OBJECT OF THE CLUB
HE object of this organization shall be to ex-
plore the mountains, forests and water-courses
of the Pacific Northwest, and to gather into
permanent form the history and traditions of
this region; to preserve, by protective legislation or
otherwise, the natural beauty of the Northwest Coast
of America; to make frequent or periodical expeditions
into these regions in fulfillment of the above purposes.
Finally, and above all, to encourage and promote the
spirit of good fellowship and comradry among the lovers
of outdoor life in the West.
Oe
THE MOUNTAINEER
Vou. IT. SEATTLE, WASHINGTON, NOVEMBER, 1909.
GREETINGS FROM THE PRESIDENT TO THE
MOUNTAINEERS.
For more than thirty years my home has been in
Seattle, a city whose arms reach out into the pulsing
tides of the Pacific. While thus from boyhood I have
dwelt at the level of the sea, my soul has continually
feasted upon visions of lofty peaks. Eastward towers
the Cascade Range, with the gleaming snow-crowned
sentinel monarchs, forming a wide panorama of endur-
ing charm and beauty. To the westward the Olympics
rear more jagged summits in a serrate line—a great
celestial saw cleaving the clouds. From boy to man
have I loved these scenes, grateful that I could live and
learn and work in their inspiring presence.
And now with you, my friends, I am coming into a
more intimate acquaintance with the loved mountains,
as we build trails to climb their sides and play in their
wonderfully beautiful parks, until added strength and
a profound enthusiasm enable us to scale their utmost
heights. The alpine tree and flower, the snow and ice,
the glacier and avalanche, all these have a power to
lift the soul to a better understanding of the majesty
of God.
O Mountaineer, I clasp your hand and vow anew
my love for the great white hills.
EpMonp S. Meany.
The Mountaineer 3
A WORD FROM THE PRESIDENT OF THE
SIERRA CLUB OF CALIFORNIA.
To the Mountaineers:
I AM with you heart and soul in your work
of white icy mountain climbing and all
that goes with it. In particular, I warmly con-
gratulate you on your fine triumphant success in
all three of your outings. I regard Mt. Rainier
as second to none of all the icy voleanic moun-
tains of the coast.
JOHN MuIrR.
4 The Mountaineer
MOUNTAINEER®S’ OUTING TO MOUNT RAINIER.
ASAHEL CURTIS.
The third annual outing of the Mountaineers, with
all its pleasures, its temporary discomforts and its
final triumph in the ascent of the highest mountain in
the United States has passed into history. Time only
leaves a memory of the happy days spent in the flower-
strewn parks or on the higher ice-clad slopes; of the
equally happy nights around the great campfires; of
the well-earned, well-enjoyed rest, and of the life-long
friendships that here found birth.
The discomforts of the long marches are forgotten;
the days when, storm bound, we lay inactive; even the
bugle boy, who always sounded reveilee long before we
thought he should, is forgiven. Almost we might for-
give those who insisted upon that fearful line, which
one from the far Atlantic Coast in sport called the
human centipede, but which we in our own rebellious
spirit derided as the “chain gang.”
Yet he is a poor mountaineer, indeed, who has not
returned to his home the better for the many lessons
learned in the solitudes. The trivial things of life,
the petty cares that to us seem so great, slink back in
the presence of this majestic mountain. It is as if one
heard from out the solitudes a voice: “Why all this
haste? Why all this fret and care? A thousand years
ere your impatient feet first trod the earth this same
beauty smiled, unknown to man. The same flowers
bloomed content to bloom and die, adding their mite
to Nature’s hoard of mold. The same streams of ice
coursed their way down mountain slopes in awful
majesty. A thousand years after you slumber in that
last great sleep, your petty deeds and purposes un-
The Mountaineer 5
known, forgotten by the hordes that followed you, they
will still bear their message to other sons of man, who
as restless and resistless as yourself, found here a curb
to their impatient, witless will.”
To the majority of the club members who partici-
pated in this outing it consisted of two or three weeks
spent on the northern side of the mountain. That they
may for a moment see, as it were, behind the scenes,
I wish to give a brief synopsis of the early work that
made the expedition a success, and to give credit to
those who contributed to this.
The outing was intended as a trip around the moun-
tain, and this plan was not abandoned until after the
first two preliminary trips had been made. The first
trip was via Fairfax and the Evans Creek trail to
Crater Lake and Spray Park, made August 27 to Sep-
tember 1 by the Outing Committee. The second one
was via the Carbon River trail to Moraine Park, on
which Mollie Leckenby and Mrs. Curtis joined the
party. The great amount of trail work to be done
convinced the Outing Committee that it was not possi-
ble for the club to make the preparations in so short a
time. On the other hand, the amount of country on
the north side to be explored was so great that a single
season of three weeks was all too short for that alone.
As any trip to the mountain, to be considered a suc-
cess, must include the ascent, it was necessary to find
a route to the summit from some point on the north
side. This could not be from Spray Park; therefore
camp must be made in Moraine Park or some park
farther to the east. Prof. J. B. Flett had twice made
the ascent over much the same route by which Prof.
I. C. Russell climbed, and we determined to attempt
the ascent with the party.
The Moraine Park trail had been destroyed by the
Carbon glacier, and it was pronounced a hopeless task
to put it in condition for horses. The park rangers ad-
6 The Mountaineer
vised building a trail through the Sluiskin Mountains,
but this would require a summer’s work and would
cost $1,500. The only other alternative was a fifty-mile
march up the White River Valley to Glacier Basin.
To settle this problem the Outing Committee made the
round trip from Fairfax to the camp ground in Mo-
raine Park and returned through the Sluiskins on July
4, and determined to build a trail over the shifting
moraine of the Carbon. This work was done for the
club under the supervision of Park Ranger T. E. O’Far-
rell and practically finished in a week.
When every plan seemed to be working at its best, a
feeling that there must be something wrong somewhere
caused Mr. Nelson to go to Fairfax to investigate. He
found that our worst fears did not do the situation
justice. Spray Park was still deep in snow, and it was
not possible to get horses farther than Crater Lake.
In getting our first supplies to the lake Henry Loss
had killed one horse and crippled others. The deep
snows prevented repairing the trail beyond the lake in
time for the party, and Nelson advised that we aban-
don the Spray Park part of the outing, or postpone it
until the last.
To do this meant the entire rearrangement of the
supplies of the outing, particularly the commissary
outfit, and will explain to those who were with us the
first week why there was a shortage of table utensils
and a scant dinner the first night in camp.
The party left Seattle on the morning of July 17,
reached Fairfax at 11 a. m., and marched to the first
camp eleven miles out on the Carbon River trail. In
a drizzling rain camp was made, and tents erected to
protect everyone, and in spite of the discomforts of wet
garments it was a happy party that gathered around
the first campfire.
The following morning a number of the men were
detailed to go in advance and complete the trail across
stung feesy Aq GOGT IUstTAdo) SNIVINOQOW NIMSOIS AHL GNV MUVd ANIVAOW
£IAVD1d ‘TI (JOA ‘4o0UIDz_UNnOTT IY
stn) peuesy Aq GOGT IUst1Adoy MUVd ANIVUON GNV dNVO YWHANIVUNDOIN
unr =
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4 =
SIOUIDPUNOTE OUT,
€ OVWDLT IT “10A
The Mountaineer, Vol. II. Plate 4
Photo by Dr. B. R. Stevens
EASTERN SLOPE OF MOUNT RAINIER SHOWING ROUTE TO SUMMIT
The Mountaineer, Vol. TI. Plate 5
Photo by Asahel Curtis
MOUNT RAINIER FROM TEMPORARY CAMP SHOWING ROUTE TO THE
SUMMIT
The Mountaineer 7
the Carbon Glacier. This was accomplished in time to
permit the advance part of the pack train to go on
into Moraine Park without delay. Here camp was
established, quarters assigned to the men and women,
commissary housed in its own tents and plans made
for the try-out trips. These served a double purpose,
to see the surrounding country with the greatest pos-
sible dispatch and to drill members of the party and
try their mettle. The first try-out trip was to the Win-
throp Glacier, the second across the Carbon into Spray
Park, the third with small packs across the Winthrop
Glacier to St. Elmo Pass.
In the meantime Mr. L. A. Nelson, Mr. Grant W.
Humes and myself had made a trip to the head of
Inter Glacier and selected a site for temporary camp
on Ruth Mountain. This camp spot had been sug-
gested by Prof. J. B. Flett, who had previously climbed
from here.
When making this preliminary trip we had hoped
to make the ascent, but were unable to do so because
of a storm. On July 28 Nelson and Humes went on to
temporary camp, and on July 29 made the ascent, going
up the ice field that forms the head of the White and
Winthrop Glaciers. They were forced to cut steps con-
siderable of the way because the snow slopes were
steep and frozen. I was prevented from joining them
in this ascent by a broken shoulder. This ascent, made
over untried country by two men who had to break
trail or cut steps so much of the way, ranks as the most
difficult one made by members of the club.
While they were climbing the main party of seventy-
seven came up to temporary camp and met them on
their return from the summit. Their strenuous climb
discouraged a number from attempting the ascent, and
on the following morning seventeen turned back, leav-
ing a party of sixty-two.
The spot chosen for camp was a ridge of boulders
8 The Mountaineer
and volcanic ash between Inter Glacier and the main
White. (Plate 5.) Beds were made by laying a line
of large rocks below to keep from rolling out and down
the mountain. The looser earth was then dragged
down to make a softer couch. The greater part of the
party had sleeping bags, which afforded ample protec-
tion from the intense cold that followed the setting of
the sun.
July 30 broke clear and beautiful, and the party in
seven companies moved out from camp, dropping to
the White Glacier and winding upward among long
crevasses. The only object by which elevation could be
judged or distance measured was the peak, Little Ta-
homa. As we slowly toiled upward we seemed to gain
so little on the elevation of this peak that the effect was
disheartening. At last it could be seen that we had
topped its highest point of red basalt, and we knew
we were nearing the 12,000-foot level. Only 2,500 feet
above us was the summit, and in unbroken line the
party was climbing easily. The try-out days in line
had been irksome to many, but their value was proven
here. But few could have stood alone on the slopes
that now measured 45 degrees and ended in broken
crevasses. Fewer still could have endured the strain of
breaking steps in the hard snow, always with that
white blur running upward to the blue sky, and down
ward until the eye grew dizzy following where miles
away the ice and forest mingled. The only safety lay
in watching the steps ahead and moving forward as
the signal was given. At 12,500 feet I passed along
the line to see how everyone was taking it, and reached
Dr. Van Horn at the head of Company D. As he rec-
ognized me he said: “Curtis, this is no place for the
father of eight children.”
I could not help wondering how many more had
reached the same conclusion. It had been impossible
to rest for more than a moment, because there was no
The Mountaineer 9
protection from the fierce wind that swept down into
our faces. At 13,000 feet a half-closed crevasse, large
enough to shelter the entire party, gave a much-needed
chance for rest and lunch. (By reference to Plate 5
this entire route can be traced and a clear idea formed
of the ascent.) Above the crevasse we crossed over
the head of the Winthrop, planning to enter the saddle
between Crater Peak and Liberty Cap. Here the wind
increased to a gale, still in our faces, and continued
throughout the day.
Once in the saddle between the summits, the ascent
was easy, the entire party reaching the crater in eight
hours and forty minutes from temporary camp. Here,
out of the wind, everyone sought a sheltered spot to
warm themselves on the hot rocks and ashes. The
A.-Y.-P. flag was fastened to its staff and an effort
made to plant it among the rocks, but the wind tore it
down each time, and it was carried to the snow dome
of Columbia Crest and the staff set deep in the snow.
It remained there only fifteen minutes, however, when
the staff was broken by the wind. The flag was rescued
and placed inside the crater by the Ingraham party,
who passed the night on the summit.
The party that reached the summit climbed in the
following formation:
General Staff.—Asahel Curtis, L. A. Nelson, Lulie
Nettleton, W. M. Price, Grant W. Humes, F. O. Morrill.
Company A.—P. M. McGregor, Captain; E. W.
Harnden, Prof. E. S. Meany, Nita J. Feree, Wayne Sen-
senig, Dr. Cora Smith Eaton, Lydia E. Lovering, Wi-
nona Bailey, G. D. Emerson, Lieutenant and member
of General Staff.
Company B.—Dr. E. F. Stevens, Captain; John A.
Best Jr., Roy Hurd, Mary J. Price, Henry Howard,
Lieutenant.
Company C.—H. C. Belt, Mrs. H. C. Belt, John
10 The Mountaineer
Fahnstock, C. M. Farrer, Annie Farrer, Lulie Smith,
Olaf Hansen, Charles Albertson, Lieutenant.
Company D.—Dr. F. J. Van Horn, Captain; May I.
Dwyer, Anna Howard, 8. L. Moyer, Elizabeth David, H.
Hutchinson, R. Merrill, Alida J. Bigelow, Lieutenant.
Company E.—Blake D. Mills, Captain; Cora Gar-
vin, Robert Van Horn, Dr. L. W. Clark, Stella Scholes,
J. M. Jensen, Bertha Reed, H. V. Abel, Gladys M. Tut-
tle, Lieutenant.
Company F.—Murray McLean, Captain; Freda San-
ford, Grace Howard, Rena Raymond, Anna Stauber, H.
May Baptie, A. W. Archer, Mollie Leckenby, Robert
Carr, Lawrance Carr, J. Fred Blake, Lieutenant; H.
Otto Knispel.
Company G.—Major E. 8. Ingraham, Captain; Ken-
neth Ingraham, Richard Buck, W. J. Colkett, Harvey
Moore.
After an hour on the summit the descent was made
safely to temporary camp, where a second night was
spent. Twilight gave way to full splendor of moon-
light while clouds formed in the valleys and rolled
fragments of mist upward against the bulk of the
mountain. The toil of the day and the discomforts of
our beds were forgotten in the splendor of the scene.
A mile above us the great White Glacier formed and
wound its ten miles of ice downward into the dark
chasm. From our eery crag we could not see where
it passed the base of the cliff, but we could look
straight down on the seamed surface of ice. More than
a mile away across the ice, clear in the moonlight, rose
the dark crag of Little Tahoma and from the depths
occasionally came the boom of moving ice.
The following morning the clouds lay around the
mountain in a vast sea that stretched on all sides to
the horizon. A few peaks broke through, but they were
insignificant in comparison to the dominating bulk of
ice that we were on. The impression was of being
The Mountaineer 11
afloat on a great iceberg. Major Ingraham and his four
companies, who had spent the night on the summit,
came down as early as they could see to travel, and
rejoined the main party at St. Elmo Pass. Returning
to camp, we walked down into this mass of clouds and
found camp shut in by a dense fog.
During the last week of the outing, fifty-five mem-
bers of the party made a knapsack trip to Spray Park,
taking bedding, camp equipage and two days’ provis-
ions. They crossed the Carbon Glacier about midway
in its length, and entered the lower part of the park,
just where the meadows begin.
It had been found impracticable to move the main
camp to Spray Park, and yet it was too great a treat
to omit entirely. As day after day the eye feasted
upon the beauties of ice-bound mountain crag or flow-
ery meadow, the mind became satiated, and it required
the unusual to attract attention. Yet nowhere else on
the mountain had the effect been so strange as here.
The park winds in and out among the crags, with small
lakes; streams that course through meadows or plunge
over rocks in beautiful cascades; trees bent and broken
by the wind; flowers of every hue, so thickly strewn
that it was impossible to step without crushing them.
Each step brought a change of view, and at first the
expressions of praise were lavish, but as we climbed
and the view became more general all this gave way to
a feeling of sadness.
The park was so beautiful that it seemed unreal,
and one regretted that so few could see it. Nature had
fashioned this playground much better than man could
hope to, and had set it away here between two great
glaciers at the base of a mighty mountain. Thousands
on thousands of acres in extent, it stretched from the
dark belt of timber 4,000 feet upward to the ice-clad
slopes below Liberty Cap itself. The last trees clung
low down to the rocks at an elevation of almost 8,000
12 The Mountaineer
feet, while flowers grew nearly a thousand feet higher.
But in the lower park the effect of the wind was not
so evident, and countless thousands of avalanche lilies,
each with a dewdrop on every petal, nod gently in the
mountain breeze. In time, when trails and roads are
built, this great park will be open to the public, and
thousands will be able to enjoy what has passed so long
unnoticed. However, here as elsewhere, it will require
the strong hand of the government to prevent wanton
destruction.
Those who first visited Paradise Park wantonly set
fire to the beautiful groves of alpine fir and hemlock,
“just to see them burn,” and today those same groves
stand, bleached ghosts of trees, their beauty gone for
ever.
It must always be the work of the club to assist in
every way possible in the work of protecting the beau-
tiful places of our state. A great part of this must be
in educating those who, in greatly increasing numbers,
go each year into the mountains.
The Mountaineer, Vol. JI. Plate 6
-hoto by Asahel Curtis
BEDS AT TEMPORARY camp F'#0to by Asahel Curtis
The Mountaineer, Vol. II. Plate 7
Photo by E. W. Harnden
DAWN AT TEMPORARY CAMP, ABOVE THE CLOUDS
The Mountaineer, Vol. T/. Plate 8
Photo by Asahel Curtis
LUNCHING IN A CREVASSE AT 13,000 FEET
The Mountaineer, Vol. TI. Plate 9
Photo by A. W. Archer
LIBERTY CAP FROM CRATER PERAK
The Mountaineer
ON COLUMBIA’S CREST.
Masor BE. S. INGRAHAM.
qa] FTER long hours of incessant climbing
| I stood upon Columbia’s Crest! A cold
wind pierced my tired body to the
| marrow, but my soul forgot the dis-
comforts of its habitation and surged
and expanded in reverence and admiration of the
scene around me. At my feet slumber the snows
of a century, yielding not to winter’s blast nor
summer’s heat. One law alone they obey—that
causes the apple to fall and the planets to keep in
their appointed places. Inch by inch they are
dragged down the mountain’s rock-ribbed sides
until changed into the slow-moving glacier. The
stunted trees upon the glacier’s bank have grown
old beckoning it onward. The flowers of a hun-
dred summers have smiled upon it and bid it wel-
come. Yet it pauses not nor yet hastens. When
the snows upon which I now stand will have
reached the silver stream far below, our children’s
children may listen to its murmurings.
13
14 The Mountaineer
CARBON GLACIER.
Epmonp 8S. MEAny.
I hail thee, river of ice and snow,
Thou source of our valleys’ fertile soil.
I climb thy seamy sides to know
A tithe of thy patient, ceaseless toil.
Grind, grind, grind,
Huge stones to dust, O stream!
Grind, grind, grind,
Till thy sides as mirrors gleam!
Thy open lips of ice doth pour
A gushing stream in noisy flood,
A stream released in joyful roar,
Behold! the glacier’s milk-white blood.
Grind, grind, grind,
To crumbling dust these stones!
Grind, grind, grind,
The mountain’s shattered bones!
Was this great rock by Titan tossed
Thy cold, brown breast to crush and bruise;
Or didst thy maiden, wintry frost
Launch playful boat for seaward cruise?
Grind, grind, grind,
The rocks however hurled!
Grind, grind, grind,
Thou millstone of a world!
The Mountaineer
How weak the pen, how vain the brush
To catch the hues of this deep gash!
How here revealed thy power to crush,
How awful is thy breathing’s crash!
Grind, grind, grind,
In cruel jaws of ice!
Grind, grind, grind,
A Devil’s Paradise!
New life from death, eternal whirl,
How brief each puny span of life!
How long the atoms, grinding, swirl
Ere seized anew for a season’s strife!
Grind, grind, grind,
To powder every stone!
Grind, grind, grind,
New life will death atone!
I mount thy shoulders’ utmost height,
Where threat’ning ice-cliffs poise and nod,
Where avalanches roar in flight
Like falling demons cursed of God.
Grind, grind, grind,
And grind exceeding fine!
Grind, grind, grind,
My Master’s will and thine!
August 5, 1909.
15
16 The Mountaineer
THE GLACIERS OF MOUNT RAINIER.
ISRAEL C. RUSSELL.
[Compiled by Alida J. Bigelow from Mr. Russell’s re-
port in the 18th Annual Survey, Vol. 2, U. 8. G. 8.]
The geology of Mount Rainier in its present gen-
eral form shows that when in its greatest perfection
it was a conical mountain, with gracefully concave
sides. The upper portion of the mountain is formed to
a large extent of fragments thrown out during ex-
plosive eruptions. Lava flows are also abundant, but
did not greatly modify the character of the slope as
determined by the falling of projectiles shot out of
the summit crater.
The height of the mountain, between 15,000 and
16,000 feet, before the explosion that truncated its
summit, insured the gathering of perennial snows and
the formation of névé* fields and glaciers on its more
elevated portions. The main topographic changes that
have resulted must therefore be due to glacial action
and the eroding power of streams fed by the ice.
Assuming that the peak was originally a perfectly
symmetrical cone with smooth, even sides, and that the
névé formed a uniform covering over the upper third
of its surface, the downward flow of the névé would
be equal. Many disturbing conditions come in, however,
in the case of a peak like Mount Rainier, composed
of loose agglomerate and lava sheets. Irregularities
in the surface of the cone, erosion by streams flow-
ing from the ice, unequal drifting of the snow, as well
as unequal melting, owing to variations in exposure
* Neve is the granular snow-ice, before the formation into solid
glacial ice.
stan poursy £q GOB IUStAkdog UAINIVU LNOOW JO LINWOS GH NO SUMUINIVINDAOIN
TT OVD) d TI (JOA “HooUrpp Uno a7,
Sin) jeyesy Aq o104q UHINIVY LNOOW HO YALVAO
OF VDI ‘TI (JOA ‘toowippUunoyy ayy
The Mountaineer, Vol. IT. Plate 12
Photo by Asahel Curtis
N AN ICE CAVE UNDER COLUMBIA CREST
The Mountaineer, Vol. TT. Plate 3
Photo by Asahel Curtis
PLANTING OF THE A.-Y.-P, E. PFLAG INSIDE THE CRATER
The Mountaineer LT
on the western and southern sides, would lead to the
gathering of the ice into more or less definite streams.
Individualized ice streams once established would hold
their positions, and by their erosion would sink deeper
and deeper into the rocks. From the extremity of each
glacier a stream fed by the melting ice would carve
a gorge or canyon, leading to rivers on the plain below.
As the ice gathered in well-defined streams, melting
would be retarded and the glaciers constantly extended
farther and farther down the water-cut gorges. In this
manner what may be termed primary glaciers would
originate from the dividing of the descending névé. As
the glaciers deepen their beds they sink into the moun-
tain and are more completely sheltered from the sur,
thus tending to perpetuate their own existence. Be-
tween the primary glaciers there would be portions of
the lower slopes of the mountain left in relief by the
excavation of the valleys between them. These V-
shaped masses pointing up the mountain would form
wedges, against which the descending névé would di-
vide to form primary glaciers. The Wedge and Little
Tahoma are typical examples of such wedges.
As is well known, the erosive action of a glacier,
other conditions being the same, depends on the gradi-
ent of its bottom. Judging from the present condition
of Mount Rainier and other similar isolated peaks on
the Pacific Coast, it appears that the most intense ero-
sion occurs in a zone about half a mile broad where
the primary glaciers become distinct ice streams. In
this zone the glaciers excavate canyons, and thus in-
crease the slope of the central mass of the mountain
above the extremities of the V-shaped residual masses,
on its lower slopes. The heads of these valleys tend
to become amphitheaters. The cliffs encircling an am-
phitheater in which a glacier has its source, gradually
recede, owing to the disintegration of the rocks in the
great crevasse, termed a bergschrund, which is formed
18 The Mountaineer
near where the upward sloping névé meets the rock
wall inclosing it.
The extension of the amphitheaters at the heads of
the glaciers renders the sides of the dome more and
more precipitous as glacial erosion progresses. Car-
bon Glacier, flowing northward and having its amphi-
theatre sheltered from the noonday sun, has excavated
a great recess or cirque* in the side of the mountain,
while the glaciers on the south side of the peak have
scarcely more than begun to form similar recesses.
The primary ice streams on Mount Rainier, in the
order of their occurrence, beginning on the north side
of the mountain and going about it toward the east,
south, etc., are as indicated on the accompanying map,
the Carbon, Winthrop, Emmons (or White), Ingraham,
Cowlitz, Nisqually, Kautz, Wilson, Tahoma, Puyallup,
Edmunds and Willis (or Mowich) Glaciers. The sec-
ondary streams, or interglaciers, as it is convenient to
term them, in the order just stated, are Interglacier,
Frying Pan, Little Tahoma, Williwakas, Paradise,
Van Trump and others not named. A former exten-
sion of the interglaciers and the previous extension of
true glaciers, where only deep snow accumulations now
occur, is shown by the polish and grooves on the rocks,
below the positions they occupy.
Carbon Glacier.
The amphitheater in which Carbon Glacier has its
source is the largest excavation that has been made in
the sides of Mount Rainier. The snow on the less steep
slope above the cliff leading to Liberty Cap, creeps
down to the verge of the precipice and then breaks off
and forms avalanches, which descend to the glacier be-
low. [Avalanches were very common here, and could
be plainly seen from the Mountaineer Camp, 1909.]
Carbon Glacier in reality has no true névé at present,
* Cirque, an amphitheater-like valley head.
The Mountaineer 19
except the snow-covered area, just mentioned, above the
summit of the cliffs encircling its amphitheater. The
gathering ground of the glacier has been decreased by
the extension of the amphitheater until it is but a fifth
or a tenth of its original extent. This glacier is still
enlarging its amphitheater, and if the process does
not check itself by decreasing the area on which snow
for the supply of the glacier accumulates, will cause
such a recession of the cliffs at its head that the central
dome of the mountain will become broken.
The wall of rock rising above the head of the glacier
is about 4,000 feet high. On this vast precipice little
snow accumulates, but on its summit there is a verti-
cal cliff of stratified névé snow about 200 feet high.
[This wall of rock is called Willis Wall. See Plates 17
and 25.] At the outlet of the ampitheater the snow,
still having the characteristics of a névé, is much crev-
assed, especially where it passes over bosses* of rock
on the floor below. The glacier descends a moderately
steep slope on leaving the amphitheater, flows for a
mile and a half with a very gentle grade, and then goes
over the edge of a precipice and descends a steep slope
to its end. The alternate breaks, and level reaches re-
sembling a great stairway are not a novel feature, as
is well known, but a characteristic of many alpine gla-
ciers, and indicate similar features of the rock surface
beneath. A glacier cuts back its beds from one ice fall
to another, in much the same way that a cascade of
a stream recedes. [Plate 17 shows Carbon Glacier and
its much crevassed condition on leaving its cirque or
amphitheater. |
Opposite Andesite Cliff, Carbon Glacier is about
half a mile broad, but it soon increases to nearly a mile
in width, and maintains this increase all the way to
the brink of the steep descent, a mile and a half below.
Down-stream, the glacier is progressively more and
* A boss is a protruding mass of harder rock in the glacier bed.
20 The Mountaineer
more deeply covered with stones and dirt. Below the
beginning of the steep descent leading to the terminus
no ice can be seen in a general view. The end of Car-
bon Glacier was seen by Willis in 1881. At the time
of our visit the glacier had retreated about 100 yards,
as nearly as could be estimated, above the position it
occupied thirteen years previous, and the precipice at
its terminus had become less steep.
[The Mountaineers’ Club built a trail, easily used
by pack train, up this face of Carbon Glacier in 1909.
This shows that in the thirteen years since Mr. Russell
reported, there has been much greater wasting away of
the ice. See Plate 18.]
A recent lowering of the surface of the glacier is
recorded by abandoned lateral moraines. These are
conspicuous along each side of the glacier. On leaving
the glacier on either side and climbing the fresh slopes
of morainal material bordering it, one finds similar
parallel ridges, each of which is clothed with forest
trees. These older moraines are in several instances
higher than the most modern ones, and show in gen-
eral a progressive lowering of the surface of the ice
as the width decreased. When the earliest pair of mo-
raines were formed it was about a mile broader and
its surface about 250 feet higher than now. Whether
the valley was ever more deeply filled with ice than is
recorded by these old moraines remains to be deter-
mined. [These elevated lateral moraines are common
at the sides and above most of the glaciers on Mount
Rainier. |
At the foot of the steep descent Carbon River
emerges from a cavern in the ice, a roaring torrent,
heavily encumbered with boulders. [Plate 18.]
Winthrop Glacier.
The névé of Winthrop Glacier extends to the sum-
mit of Mount Rainier. A part of the snow that ac-
+
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The Mountaineer, Vol. II. Plate 22 The Mountaineer, Vol. TI. Plate 23
903 or
SAHEL CURTIS ©
517%
Photo by Asahel Curtis Copyright 1909 by Asahel Curtis
RUSSELL PEAK SPRAY FALLS
The Mountaineer 21
cumulates in the great summit crater between Crater
Peak and Liberty Cap flows eastward down the precipi-
tous slope of the central dome, covering all that side
of the mountain. The eastern side of the mountain is
more heavily snow covered than any other portion,
mainly for the reason that the prevailing westerly
winds cause the snow to be deposited there in greatest
abundance. Near the lower limit the névé is divided
by two rocky promontories known as The Wedge and
Little Tahoma. Their prow-like rock masses divide the
névé into three primary glaciers—the Winthrop, Em-
mons (or White) and Cowlitz.
The névé of Winthrop Glacier descends below The
Wedge and terminates above timber line at an elevation
of approximately 8,000 feet. Below the lower margin
of the névé the solid blue ice of the glacier proper, in
places heavily covered with debris extends far down
the valley, between rugged mountains, and ends at an
elevation of between 4,000 and 5,000 feet. [Winthrop
Glacier carries the largest rock masses of any glacier
on Mount Rainier. This is probably due to the great
supply of loose rock at the edge of Willis Wall. See
Plate 19.]
From the ends of the glacier one branch of the
White River flows out as a swift, turbid stream, heay-
ily loaded with coarse debris. One of the characteris-
tic features of the glaciers about Mount Rainier is the
occurrence of well-marked domes, the summits of which
are commonly fractured so as to produce radiating
crevasses. Several of these domes occur in Winthrop
Glacier, both in the névé portion and in the glacier
proper. The margin of the glacier is heavily moraine
covered and much broken by crevasses. In places it is
impassable.
The extremity of the glacier flows past a bold rock
dome, which was formerly covered with ice, and at a
later stage, as the glacier receded, divided it into two
bo
bo
The Mountaineer
branches, the eastern being the broader. The ice has
here shrunk away from the moraine, and is now fully
100 feet below its crest.
Emmons (or White) Glacier. [Plate 20.]
[ White Glacier is the longest in the United States. ]
Below The Wedge and Little Tahoma, Emmons Gla-
cier is a well-defined ice stream, about five miles in
length, with bold, rocky cliffs on each side. The glacier
becomes heavily charged with debris along its borders
from the adjacent cliffs, and in the lower portion of
its course is completely covered with stones and dirt
on either side. These lateral moraines become broader
and broader toward the terminus of the glacier, leaving
a tapering lane-like tongue of clear ice between, but be-
fore the terminus is reached the ice over the entire sur-
face is concealed by a continuous sheet of brown and
barren debris.
The tongue of clear ice near the extremity of the
glacier is some two or three miles long, and much of the
way about one-third the width of the valley.
Emmons Glacier, like all the other primary glaciers
on Mount Rainier, is evidently wasting away and its
terminus receding.
Ingraham Glacier.
The portion of the névé descending the east side of
the central dome of Mount Rainier, to the right or
south of Little Tahoma, forms a primary glacier of an
abnormal type. This well-defined ice stream does not
descend the mountain slope in a direct course, but is
deflected southward or becomes tributary to Cowlitz
Glacier.
On approaching its junction with Cowlitz Glacier,
Ingraham Glacier descends a precipice about 800 feet
high and forms a fine ice cascade.
The Mountaineer 23
Cowlite Glacier.
The Cowlitz Glacier, above where Ingraham Glacier
joins it, expands somewhat and occupies an irregular
depression having something of the features of an am-
phitheater. The slopes at the head of the depression
are so sharp that the snow descends in avalanches.
The portion of Cowlitz Glacier below Ingraham
Glacier is enclosed by bold cliffs and is well defined.
There is less evidence of shrinkage along its sides than
in the case of the other glaciers examined. A sharp-
crested lateral moraine is evidence, however, of a recent
lowering of the surface of at least 75 or 100 feet.
Nisqually Glacier.
Nisqually Glacier heads in two névé fields, which
occupy what may be termed incipient amphitheaters,
situated below the level of Gibraltar. The easterly
névé, the one nearest Gibraltar, however, is fed by two
snow streams, which endure through the summer and
form ice cascades on which avalanches frequently
occur.
This glacier narrows to a well-defined stream to the
west of Paradise Park, and at its terminus there is an
archway from which Nisqually River rushes out.
[Mr. Russell did not study Kautz, Wilson, Tahoma,
Puyallup and Edmunds Glaciers, and so no report is
given of these. ]
Willis (or Mowich) Glacier.
On the northwest side of Mount Rainier and at the
head of the deep, narrow valley through which the
north branch of the Mowich River flows, is a glacier
known as the Willis (or Mowich). It has many of
the features of the primary glaciers already described,
but is of small size, and one may see all its character-
istic features in a single day’s excursion.
24 The Mountaineer
The entire distance from Liberty Cap, where the
snow accumulates to the extremity of the glaciers,
where it melts away, is approximately five miles. The
breadth of the glacier where its borders are best de-
fined, about a mile above its terminus, is approximately
3,000 feet.
At the head of the canyon there is a steep ascent
to the summit of the mountain resembling the higher
and more precipitous cliffs at the head of Carbon Gla-
cier. There is a noticeable enlargement of the canyon
near its head, but it is not extensive enough to be
classed as an amphitheater. From the summit of
Eagle Cliff—where may be seen the most magnificent
of the views about Mount Rainier, and in fact one of
the most sublime pictures of noble scenery to be had
anywhere in America—the whole of Willis Glacier,
from the snow fields that give brilliancy to Liberty Cap
down to the dirt-stained and crevassed extremity of the
ice stream, is embraced in a single view.
From Eagle Cliff the manner in which Willis Gla-
cier is divided at its extremity into two moraine-coy-
ered tongues of ice is a noticeable feature. The bold
rocky eminence that causes the division rises steeply
in the center of the valley to a height of fully 1,000 feet,
and is clothed on its down-stream side with forest trees.
The retreat of the glacier within recent years has
been accompanied by a lowering of its surface, as is
plainly recorded by fresh-looking ridges of debris along
its border. On the northern side of the glacier, for a
mile above the ice fall of 400 feet, there are three well-
defined abandoned lateral moraines.
Interglaciers.
The interglaciers were formerly more extensive than
now, and much of the beauty of the park-like regions
in the neighborhood of the upper limit of timber growth
is due to the changes they made in the relief of the
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The Mountaineer, Vol. II, Plate 18
Photo by Asahel Curtis
NOSE OF THE CARBON GLACIER
The Mountaineer, Vol. ITI. Plate 19
Photo by Asahel Curtis
HUGE ROCKS CARRIED DOWN BY THE WINTHROP GLACIER
The Mountaineer 25
mountain side, both by rounding and smoothing the
rocks over which they flowed and by heaping moraines
upon them. [See Plate 2.]
Many of the crags and pinnacles which give divers-
ity to the scenery on the steep mountain slopes, like
the Guardian Rocks near Spray Park, Gibraltar and
the numerous crests near it, and other similar crags
in Henry’s Hunting Ground, etc., are remnants spared
by the glaciers which once enveloped nearly the entire
surface of the mountain, but still in their deeper por-
tions flowed in most instances in well-defined chan-
nels. [See Plate 3.]
THE LURE OF THE WEST.
E. W. HARNDEN.
Why does a far Easterner, an Appalachian, go vaca-
tioning into the far West, not once, but repeatedly?
Wildness and remoteness from civilization are as eas-
ily enjoyed in New England as in the West—in the
Maine woods, in New Hampshire, even in the old Bay
State. I have had as strenuous work bucking brush for
days at a time in the White Mountains, far from all
evidences of mankind, as I have had in the Tuolumne
Canyon, and there were compensations, scenic and oth-
erwise, of a somewhat different kind. In winter, too,
our White Mountains afford some true alpine aspects;
and certainly New England need not apologize for its
yachting, canoeing, snow-shoeing, hunting or automo-
biling.
Thoreau once said that other nations have their
written epics—that America is living hers; and it
seems to me that the lure of the West today lies in its
epic, dramatic appeal, now somewhat subdued in other
26 The Mountaineer
parts of the country, an appeal human as well as scenic.
The people are doing things in a more virile, unfet-
tered, optimistic way, not having found their limita-
tions and not admitting that they have any; and Na-
ture, also, has worked along the Pacific Coast, in the
canyons, mountains, glaciers, waterfalls and trees, with
a broad, titanic sweep of the brush not to be found
elsewhere. Her work, perhaps, sometimes lacks the
perfection of detail to be found in the East, and there
are people who prefer the Hudson to the Columbia.
Personally, I do not.
In scenery, from Alaska to Southern California, and
in climate (making a few mental reservations), I be-
lieve the Pacific Coast leads the world; and the situa-
tion of Washington and Oregon, in the very center of
things, is especially fortunate. (JI hear some enthusi-
astic Seattleite say, “Why drag in Oregon?”) You
have within your own borders the great volcanoes, the
Olympics, Crater Lake and numberless other wonders;
while Alaska, the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks, the
Sierras, and all the great national parks of the West,
are readily accessible. Because of all these attractions,
although an Eastener who thoroughly appreciates and
enjoys the advantages and charms of the East, I go
West as often as I can, because certainly scenery, cli-
mate and electric human contact go to make up no
mean part of life.
Rainier is the most majestic great dome mountain,
not excepting Mount Blanc, that I have ever seen.
Where else can you find a mountain with fifteen or six-
teen tremendous living glaciers on its sides? Four
years ago, from Paradise Park, repose seemed to be
its keynote; but I found this year that it is a
dozen mountains in one, and that even the Matterhorn
has nothing more terrific than the avalanching Willis
Wall.
One of the grandest pictures in my “nature gallery”
The Mountaineer 27
was furnished at our temporary camp. Can any of us
ever forget the tremendous view from that isolated
rocky ridge, the sweep of the great, crevassed White
Glacier, the noblest ice river in the country, curving its
great length from the mountain heights to the valley
below, with rugged Little Tahoma cutting the sky-line
beyond, and far off, on the horizon, Mount Baker and
Glacier Peak? I can close my eyes and see that glori-
ous moonlight effect of the “night before” silvering
everything, as I saw it sitting up in my sleeping bag
and looking across the glacier; and I can see also that
superb sea of cloud stretching around and beyond Ruth
Mountain, below us, “the morning after.” Spray Park,
too—the most beautiful of the Rainier parks—pre-
sented a phase of the old mountain entirely new to me.
I wonder how many have any idea of the propor-
tions of Rainier. Several years ago, standing on a sum-
mit of the Tatoosh Range, to the south, I made some eye
measurements. Here was a fine range, perhaps a dozen
miles in length, attaining about 7,500 feet above sea
level. Opposite loomed Rainier, with a base line as
great as, or greater than, the whole length of the range,
and rising to a height of 14,500 feet. Imagine the cubic
dimensions, ye materialists! If the whole Tatoosh
Range were broken up and spread over Rainier it would
be hardly noticed.
The commanding proportions of Rainier as com-
pared with other snow peaks are particularly striking
viewed from the summit of Olympus; which reminds
me also that in the Olympics Washington has a gem.
While not on a gigantic scale, judged by Alpine yard-
sticks, everything is clean, compact, perfect. Here are
unspoiled, magnificent woods; splendid hunting and
fishing; fine streams, falls, and clean-cut rock canyons;
and climbing, not unduly arduous, which offers a fine
variety of snow and rock work, with a constantly-
changing succession of beautiful views. Olympus from
28 The Mountaineer
Dodwell and Rixon’s Pass is superb; and the west sum-
mit of the mountain affords a fine panorama to the
north, east and south, the beautifully shaped, pecu-
liarly precipitous peaks of the peninsula standing forth
in dense array, etched in a strong outline of snow and
ice against dark rock. In the distance appear Rainier,
Baker, and other snow peaks, while to the west the
landscape falls off rapidly to the dense woods which
stretch to the Pacific.
As for Baker, undoubtedly the easiest way of
climbing it—from the southwest—has been found. The
packers even got a horse up to what they called “the
equator.” But the mountain lacks dignity viewed from
that side, and we regretted not having first approached
it from the north. Our stay with the Mazamas, while
short, was delightful, the “owls” particularly exerting
themselves in our behalf.
Crater Lake, Oregon, more than justified high ex-
pectations. It deserves a place well up on the list of
the national parks of the country, and should certainly
be visited by all Mountaineers who have not done so,
not for mountaineering feats, but as a spectacle. Lake
and crater are best viewed from Watchman’s Peak.
We were more than charmed with the unrivaled blues
of the lake and with the steep crater sides, suggesting
in their erosion the Grand Canyon of Arizona and in
coloring the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, while
the scientific interest is inexhaustible.
Never have brother Emerson and myself been more
hospitably treated, never have we more thoroughly en-
joyed the hearty good fellowship of the great out-of-
doors, than at the hands of the Mountaineers. In our
future wanderings may we always find at hand those
governed by the same rule of action—‘Each for all!
All for each!”
Sitting in my den, it all comes back to me. I see
the Olympics from Moraine Park, in the golden sun-
The Mountaineer 29
set; the moon sailing over Willis Wall. I live again
through the tramps, the climbs, the comradeship of the
“good fellows,” men and woman, the stimulating ex-
change of ideas, the laugh, the song, the story, the
hushed enjoyment of majestic scenes. Even the mem-
ory of the mosquitoes is hallowed. And I smell the
wood smoke and see the great logs blazing and the
sparks flying. How far removed and unimportant all
petty things were, what an Arcadia this world seemed,
as we looked into the campfire. And I see the Igorrotes,
as far out-Igorroting those on the “Pay Streak” as
they themselves were outdone by the Mountaineers in
their ordinary climbing rigs and make-up. I hear
again the sonorous accents of Rain-in-the-Face, har-
anguing the palefaces (pale, forsooth!) ; the familiar
Story of Stickeen, never told with a better setting; the
pathetic tale of “Willie,” too sad for tears! And, oh,
for just one more taste of that maple wax!
And other Western campfires and experiences come
to mind—with the Sierras, the Mazamas, with a com-
panion, alone; and I examine my outfit, plan improve-
ments for another season, study maps—and go to bed.
FLOWERS OF THE MOUNTAIN.
WINONA BAILEY.
The Outing Committee had promised the “botany
bunch” for the Rainier trip such display of flowers as
they had never dreamed of, and they kept their prom-
ise. When camp was first made in Moraine Park the
snow had so recently melted in most places that only
a few tiny green leaves gave promise of gardens of
loveliness three weeks later. A few flowers like the fur-
clad Western or Mountain anemone (pulsatilla occi-
dentalis) had already ventured out from beneath their
winter coverings. But even the hardy sweet colt’s
30 The Mountaineer
foot of the higher altitudes (petasites frigida) wrapped
in cotton as it is, seemed to shiver beside the icy stream.
The little blue violet (viola retroscabra) was out, and
nestling so close to Mother Earth as not to feel the chill
winds, smiled a welcome. Wild heliotrope (valeriana
sitchensis), so called because of her fragrance, was ar-
rayed in her thinnest gown—possibly in her Alaska
home she has become inured to cold weather and light
garments—and tossing her head high, received the at-
tention she demanded. The avalanche lily, as Mr. Cur-
tis appropriately calls the white dog-tooth violet of the
mountains (erythronium montanum), is also accli-
mated to a northern home, and to show its indifference
to cold frequently pushes its head up through the edge
of a retreating snow-bank.
But to go back to Fairfax and come up the trail
with the flowers. The first miles were not especially
interesting, leading for the most part through a burn
with the fire-weed (epilobium spicatum), conspicuous,
as it is in such places, the whole Western country over.
A reminder of home were the graceful plumes of goat’s
beard (aruncus aruncus). Three weeks later this gen-
tleman, like many a good mountaineer, had lost his
blonde complexion and developed a shaggy beard, while
his place in the world of beauty had been taken by the
feathery ocean spray (scizonotus discolor). In many
places the rocks were covered with the bright yellow of
the stone crop (sedum divergens). The botanists also
picked up a turtle-head (chelone nemorosa) and a
coarse water-leaf (hydrophyllum capitatum) before
reaching the deep forest near the borders of the Na-
tional Park. Within the forest the air was sweet with
the delicate fragrance of millions of the tiny, tinkling
pink bells of the twin flower (Linnaeas Americana), the
one flower the great Linnaeus wanted to bear his name.
Whenever the trail came near the brook there were
great hedges of beautiful lace-like leaves with spikes of
The Mountaineer 31
pink flowers (capnoides scouleri) that resembled the
more modest bleeding heart (bikukulla formosa), called
by the children Dutchman’s breeches, which indeed
grew near by.
But the parts of the woods the Mountaineers love
best are the places where tower giant cedars and firs
and hemlocks hundreds of feet into the air, shedding
through their branches a mellow light on great soft
beds of the most beautiful of Washington’s many
mosses, the lacy hylocomium splendens. Here are num-
berless dainty white flowers; the one with four white
bracts set across its four green leaves is the dwarf
dog-wood (cornus canadensis); the pure white waxy
flower, like a delicate lily, between two long leaves, is
the clintonia uniflora; while the exquisite white one
growing out from the center of a circlet of leaves in a
bed of moss is the rare moneses uniflora. The two
prince’s pines are in these woods side by side, the pip-
isissiwa of the Indians, one (chimaphila umbellata),
with shiny stiff green leaves and fancy pink parasol-
like blossoms; the other (chimaphila menziesii) with
more dainty flowers, pure white, often with mottled
leaves. Then there are many pyrolas, a tall pink spike
(pyrola bracteata), a shorter, more compact one (py-
rola secunda) and a tall stem set with creamy white
flowers (pyrola picta). The orchid family is repre-
sented by groups of slender coral-root (corallorhiza
mertensiana), three or four together; and the two twa-
blades (ophrys caurina and ophrys convallarioides),
with their delicate green spikes. Occasionally a clump
of colorless Indian pipe (hypopitys hypopitys) is seen
just pushing its head through the ground.
On the rocks of the moraine just below the nose of
Carbon Glacier grew mats of wild foxglove (pentstem-
on menziesii), with showy purple blossoms, and clump
after clump of rock fern (ceryptogramma acrostichoi-
32 The Mountaineer
des), its plume-like fertile fronds very numerous and
conspicuous among those infertile.
The practice trips from camp introduced an entirely
new group of plants. On the dry, rocky ledges, high
above the mountain meadows, and heathery benches,
it seemed as if no flowers would care to cling. But
adapting themselves to their bleak abode by such ex-
pedients as fleshy or hairy leaves or long tough roots
—they are all perennials—they lifted their bright faces
from the sandy slopes or gravelly beds, and from many
a crevice in the rocks. At Camp Curtis the botanists
took all the flowers they saw—three plants of draba
aureola and three of a species of Jacob’s ladder (pole-
monium elegans). The draba is a mouse-colored plant
with yellow blossoms, a member of the mustard family,
and probably the highest flower on Mount Rainier. The
Jacob’s ladder is a beautiful indigo with a bright yel-
low center, very sticky leaves and a disagreeable smell.
Another high plant, also a member of the mustard fam-
ily, is the smelowskia calycina, a white flower with
grayish green leaves, the blossom not unlike ordinary
candy-tuft.
At St. Elmo Pass were the funny little chubby
heads of phacelia sericea settled close down in a nest
of gray leaves; the silvery green gray leaves of poten-
tilla villosa, as soft and silky as the finest velvet; two
saxifrages, the little spotted white flowers of saxifraga
bronchialis, and the exquisite mats of saxifraga cespi-
tosa covered with smiling white blossoms. On all the
trips up high on the rocks nothing was more frequently
seen than Tolmei’s saxifrage (saxifraga tolmeii), very
shiny, fleshy, bright-green leaves, forming a big mat
and white flowers with dark centers standing in the
mat, like stickpins in a cushion.
On the trip across the Carbon Glacier, up toward
Observation Rock, Mr. Curtis found a fine specimen of
his favorite mountain flower, moss campion (silene
The Mountaineer, Vol. TT, Plate 24
= Sas
BRYTHRONIUM MONTANUM Photo by Asahel Curtis
5 my > wa
‘-— Mal aoe sepals
The Mountaineer 33
acaulis). He promised the botanists this plant a year
ago on the Mount Shuksan trip, but when Shuksan was
given up, moss campion was too. This specimen entire
was like a little green dome twelve inches across. The
leaves looked indeed like moss, but the covering of ex-
quisite, little, pink, stemless blossoms showed that it
was a flowering plant.
A wet mossy place where water trickled out from
among rocks would be studded with brilliant, yellow
monkey flowers (mimulus alpinus), a monkey head
with no body, for the leaves are very, very small, but
the flowers an inch long. Our Tyrolean friend, who
loved to browse over the rocks, brought us one day
some sage (artemisia borealis wormskioldii), another
day an interesting plant (luina hypoleuca), leaves
thick grayish green on one side and woolly, almost
white, on the other, feeling like felt.
On the gravel slopes above Moraine Park and over-
looking the upper part of Carbon Glacier, grew two
sturdy plants, one (spraguea umbellata), with fleshy
dark red leaves and blossoms like balls of thin, pink
paper, the other less beautiful but equally brave (erio-
gonum pyrolaefolium coryphaeum), with brownish
green, thick leaves and fine, creamy flowers.
We had learned to think of Spray Park as the para-
dise of flowers, and so we found it. After dropping
down from heather bench to heather bench, suddenly
we saw them, like Wordsworth’s daffodils, ‘a cloud, a
host,” “fluttering and dancing in the breeze.” But
these were not all golden; they were red and white
and blue and yellow. The great red masses were the
painter’s brush (castilleja oreopola), a wonderful crim-
son peculiar to the higher altitudes; the blue, great
spikes of lupine (lupinus subalpinus) ; the white, fluffy
balls of smartweed (polygonum bistortoides), or in
damper places beds of white marsh marigold (caltha
34 The Mountaineer
leptosepala) ; the yellow, a small but very abundant
yellow flower, a rare plant found so far only on Mount
Rainier, and on Mount Rainier only in the vicinity of
Moraine and Spray Parks. It belongs to the celery
family, and has been named hesperogenia stricklandi.
The avalanche lily was at the height of its glory, three,
four, even five flowers on a stem, and of these flowers,
acres and acres, countless as the snowflakes in the
great banks that gave them water.
Of all the trails the Mountaineers have followed, in
the Olympics, on Mount Baker, on Mount Rainier, none
surpasses the one from Spray Park to Crater Lake in
beauty or wealth of flora. The verdure of the under-
growth was furnished largely by the white rhododen-
dron (rhododendron albiflorwm), not yet in bloom, and
its cousin menziesia ferruginea. Yet nearer the ground
were the two mountain huckleberries, the red and the
blue, the former with fine graceful leaves, as decorative
as the fronds of a fern; while creeping along on the
ground, its last year’s leaves left fastened close to the
earth by the weight of last year’s snow, was the delicate
walking raspberry (rubus pedatus). Ata turn of the
trail, where an opening in the trees revealed Spray
Falls, the nature lover was forced to divide his atten-
tion between the great silvery sheet of spray across the
canon and the gorgeous pink monkey flower (mimulus
lewisii) at his feet, and the earliest heads of rose-
colored mountain hard-hack (spiraea densiflora) just
above him. Farther down the trail in the midst of
great banks of wild heliotrope (valeriana sitchensis),
already familiar at camp, were many white fringy
stems of trautvetteria grandis, and next long beds of
pink belled Solomons’s seal (streptopus roseus), with
its tiny pink bells strung along under its spreading
leaves. Here and there a wake-robin (trillium ovatum)
The Mountaineer 35
grown pink or purple with age showed how spring and
summer merge up among the glaciers. Where a little
stream crossed the trail and leaky boots sought step-
ping stones or a log, the botanist dodged out of line
and back again in a minute with a shooting star (dode-
catheon jeffreyii) and two orchids, a white and a green
one (limnorchis leucostachys and piperia unalaschen-
Sis).
But the time came when we must leave the spots
we had learned to love, and all the flower friends we
had made, and the night before camp was broken we
went around to leave our adieux with each one. First,
the heathers, how hard the parting was, for they had
been our constant companions! And yet their vaca-
tion was nearly over, too, for their blossoms were fall-
ing. Red heather (phyllodoce empetriformis) had been
a staunch friend, ready to give anything he possessed
for our comfort—many a bed had he furnished, thanks
to the kind permission of Mr. O’Farrell, the park
ranger; next came yellow heather (phyllodoce glanduli-
flora), then their cousin, white heather (cassiope mer-
tensiana), true and pure as any real lily of the valley,
and last the treasure of the trip, little Alaska heather
(harrimanella stellariana). Then we said good-bye to
the louseworts, pedicularis contorta, yellow, short and
stout; pedicularis ornithorhynca, red, also short, and
inclined to be chubby; tall, graceful pedicularis groen-
landica, that we nicknamed “red elephant” because he
chooses to adorn himself with little elephants’ ears and
trunk; white pedicularis racemosa, looking fresh and
sweet in her lavender pink bonnets; and last pedicu-
laris bracteosa, yellow, pompous, well-to-do.
Up in the draw on the way to the mountain lived
the yellow dog-tooth violet (erythronium parviflorum) ,
just as beautiful as his cousin avalanche lily, but more
36 The Mountaineer
retiring. Farther up was phlox diffusa, a great mat of
grayish leaves and blue, or pinkish blue, flowers hang-
ing over a rock or down a bank, and near by a tiny
golden aster (erigeron aureus). That unobtrusive but
independent little blue fellow with Quaker gray clothes
was a lupine (lupinus lyallii). Not one of our new
friends did we respect more than him. To that marshy
spot, with the bog-moss (sphagnum) we went for a
parting word with the little pink swamp laurel of the
mountains (kalmia glauca microphylla).
We couldn’t take time to climb up to the eliff-
dwellers again, but we waved at them from below, and
high up on the rocks the rock-dwelling painters’ brush
(castilleja rupicola) and crimson wild foxglove (pent-
stemon menziesii) waved back at us their bright ban-
ners. That clump of lace fern (cheilanthes gracillima),
real quality, she, shook her lace scarf at us, and we
knew she had pardoned our intrusion on her quiet re-
treat the day before. We said good-bye to a bright
yellow member of the rose family (dasiphora fruticosa)
and purple aster and blue aster (aster pulchellus and
aster polyphyllus), and to tiny blue speedwell (veron-
ica cusickii), friend polemonium coeruleum and golden
rod (solidago corymbosa.)
Returning to camp, we were just having a parting
word with a bright yellow flower of modest behavior, a
general favorite, because of her resemblance to the but-
tercup (potentilla flabellifolia), when somewhat to our
surprise we found that Alaska spiraea (lutkea pectin-
ata) had come all the way down to Lawrence’s water-
wheel by the cook tent. She looked charming in her
creamy white attire, and we bade her a fond farewell.
The next morning blue violet (viola retroscabra)
had a tear in her eye as we left, and perhaps rhododen-
dron albiflorum, whom we passed on the trail, soon
after saw tears in ours, but we tried to hide them as
we gazed back toward the Elysian Fields and saw, high
The Mountaineer 37
up on the hillside, green hellebore (veratrum viride),
gracefully waving his green ribbon pennants, apparent-
ly with no consciousness that he is the greatest fever
remedy in the world, and squaw grass, or Indian bas-
ket grass (xerophyllwn tenax), stretching high his
fluffy, feathery tow-head to catch a last glimpse of his
departing guests.
THE DOG-TOOTH VIOLET.
Epmonp S. Meany.
In the mountain’s hanging gardens
I roamed in joy today
And saw a lavish treasure
In flowers that strewed the way.
They nod and sing a welcome,
They speak to those who know
Of life and love in summer,
Of sleep beneath the snow.
And one with snowy petals
My memory ever thrills.
Thou art purest and the fairest,
Sweet lily of the hills.
38 The Mountaineer
EARLY ASCENTS OF MOUNT RAINIER.
Mas. E. S. INGRAHAM.
General A. V. Kautz, then a young lieutenant, was
probably the first person to attempt the ascent of Mt.
Rainier. That was in July, 1857, and the route chosen
was a rocky spur that extends from Longmire’s Springs
to Peak Success. Lieut. Kautz, with a soldier named
Dogue for a companion, climbed to the ridge connect-
ing Peak Success with Crater Peak, and probably
could have gained the summit, but the lateness of the
hour and prudence, lead them to beat a hasty retreat
to the lower altitudes. Had they known of the exist-
ence of the steam caves in the crater, which have since
afforded protection and shelter to belated climbers, they
would doubtless have continued the ascent and thus
had the honor of first standing upon the top of The
Mountain.
For thirteen years thereafter the snows of Rainier
were unstained by human footprints. In 1870, P. B.
Van Trump, who had lived within view of the moun-
tain for three years, and Hazard Stevens, son of the
first governor of Washington Territory, joined forces
to attack the mountain. They were successful, first
reaching the summit of Peak Success, and then cross-
ing over and climbing Crater Peak. They learned of
the existence of the steam caves, and spent the night
in one of them. There is no doubt that to Van Trump
and Stevens belongs the honor of first standing upon
the apex of Mt. Rainier. They gave the names Peak
Success, Crater Peak and Liberty Cap to the trident
shaped summit. That was in August. In October of
the same year S. F. Emmons and A. D. Wilson, geolo-
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The Mountaineer 39
gists in the employ of the U. S. Government, also
climbed to the summit.
In 1883, Van Trump, James Longmire and Geo.
Bayley composed the third party of successful climbers.
So far all successful ascents had been made by what is
now known as the Gibralter Trail. In 1885, three men
living in Snohomish, whose names I do not know, made
the ascent from the northeast side, taking the same
general course followed by the Mountaineers in their as-
cent the present year. In 1886 and 1887, the writer made
unsuccessful attacks on the northeast side, but upon
reaching an altitude of 13,800 feet having been working
in clouds all day, prudence demanded a return to the
timber line. In 1888, I organized a party to make the
ascent from the south side. I was glad to receive
into my party after its organization and equipment,
John Muir, Wm. Keith and Van Trump. The summit
was reached without great difficulty and two hours
were spent exploring the crater. In 1890, the first
woman, Miss Fay Fuller of Tacoma, reached the sum-
mit, but it was with a Seattle party.
Origin of Names.
Van Trump and Stevens named the three peaks.
Peak Success was so called to commemorate their suc-
cessful climb. The name Crater Peak is obvious. The
name Liberty Cap was suggested by its fanciful re-
semblance to the head and cap of the Goodess of Lib-
erty. Columbia’s Crest received its name from Mr.
Hawkins, a member of my party of 1894. The names
of the glaciers have been given by various map-makers.
Many of them commemorate the names of early climb-
ers. The map made by Prof. I. C. Russell and pub-
lished by the Department of Geology of the United
States, outlines and names all the existing glaciers.
Those names are of government record and will stand
unless regularly changed by the proper authority as
40 The Mountaineer
was recently the case in changing the name Narada
Falls, to Cushman Falls. Winthrop Glacier was named
in honor of Theodore Winthrop, who first saw the
mountain in 1853 and published an article extolling its
wonderful beauties. Edmonds Glacier was named after
Senator Edmonds of Vermont, who visited Spray Park
in 1884. The names Kautz, Stevens, Van Trump, Ing-
raham and Willis honor early explorers of the moun-
tain. Paradise Park was named by the Longmires.
Sluiskin Falls by Van Trump after his Indian guide.
The writer in his dozen or more trips to the moun-
tain, has pinned many names to points of interest as
follows; the reason for selecting most of the names is
so obvious that no explanation is needed. Camp Muir,
in 1888, Mr. Muir was of my party. Upon reaching
that point in the ascent, Mr. Muir suggested it as a
good place to spend the night, saying that the presence
of pummice in large quantities indicated the absence
of wind. Beehive in the cleaver higher up was so called
by its fanciful resemblance to the old style beehive. In
1889 I gave the name Gibralter to that frowning bat-
tlement which must be conquered in the ascent from
the south side. Elysian Fields and the Summerland
are names given by me to two beautiful parks on the
northeast and east slopes respectively, on account of
their delightful location and surroundings. Inter-
glacier received its name, in 1886, from the fact that it
does not head in the upper slopes, neither is it a tribu-
tary to any other glacier. St. Elmo’s pass received its
name from a fine exhibition of St. Elmo’s fire that oc-
curred while we were spending a night there. In the
midst of a thunder storm that was booming in the val-
leys below we noticed balls of St. Elmo’s fire gather-
ing on the ends of our alpenstocks, that were standing
upon each side of our rocky beds. Raising our ex-
tended fingers upward they became illuminated with
vp Pe es ee " Cecelia Still all a dil Gadi ld att
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The Mountaineer 41
electric fire; our tinware was easily located by the light
it emitted.
There are several names of minor interest that have
not found their way on the maps. It seems to me that
it would be a commendable work for the Mountaineers
to make a lexicon of all the recognized names, giving
their origin while it is possible to do so. It also seems
right that the club should give names to many points
of interest not so designated.
OLYMPIC NATIONAL MONUMENT.
Hon. W. E. HuMPHREY.
The story of the new “National Monument” set
aside in the Olympic mountains, is a tale that will not
take many words in the telling. Ever since I have been
in Congress I have been working to have a bill passed
that would make a national game preserve in these
mountains. I desired this, not only to preserve the game,
but as a step toward a national park. This bill was
favored by President Roosevelt but met with much op-
position in Congress. Once I did succeed in getting it
through the House, but it died in the Senate. There
was no possibility of getting it passed again before
President Roosevelt went out of office. In my anxiety
to do something toward preserving the Roosevelt elk of
the Olympics, the largest and finest elk in the world,
and to keep this region in shape where no one could
claim that they held rights because of settlement, I
thought of the statute that gives the President the
power to set aside certain areas of land to preserve
such features as were of a great scientific value. I de-
cided to ask the President to do this with this region.
I requested Mr. Pinchot, who was interested always in
42 The Mountaineer
game protection, to go with me to see the President for
this purpose.
I shall not forget that visit. It was, as I recall, the
second day of March, two days before the end of the
Roosevelt administration and the beginning of the Taft
administration. I was waiting in the Cabinet room
when the President came in. He had that wearied and
tired expression that comes from long continued exer-
tion, when there is more work crowding upon you than
you can possibly do. This was the first and only time
that I ever saw him when he showed the effect of the
almost unbelievable amount of work that he did in
those closing strenuous days.
Without waiting for any formal greeting, as soon as
he entered he called to me across the room, “Tell me
what you want, Mr. Humphrey, and I will give it to
you. Do not take time to give me the details, simply
tell me what you wish me to do.” I said, “Mr. Presi-
dent, I want you to set aside as a national monument,
750,000 acres in the heart of the Olympic mountains,
the main purpose of this is to preserve the elk in the
Olympics.” He replied, “I will do it. Prepare your
order and I will sign it.” That was the whole of the
transaction. I shook hands with him, wished him suc-
cess in Africa and told him good-by. As I was going
out, he said to me, “I will tell you all about my hunt
when I return.” That is the last time that I saw him.
Later I sent him at Oyster Bay a photograph show-
ing a portion of the “monument,” which had been sent
to me by Mr. Curtis. He wrote me saying he was
greatly pleased to get the picture and closed by saying
that he would certainly tell me all about his African
trip when he returned home.
The Mountaineer 43
EASTERN IMPRESSIONS OF THE MOUNTAIN-
EERS.
KATHERINE REED.
When this native of Chicago was asked to give her
impressions of the Mountaineers’ camp in Moraine
Park, Mt. Rainier, as those of an eastern member, she
had a moment of reluctance. In the windy city she
was always accounted western without challenge. In
Washington, D. C., her adopted home for seven years,
she has more than once been charitably accounted for
with,
“But, then, you’re from the west, you know!”
It is not to be disputed, however, that whatever her
location geographical, her true place among the Moun-
taineers is with the Che-cha-kos. This was proclaimed
officially by the outing committee in the baggage car,
‘north of the King Street station,” as they sat in con-
ference upon the easterner’s dunnage bag weighing a
fatal fifty pounds. It was finally allowed to go through
as a concession to its owner’s newness, not to say raw-
ness and distance from home. But with appropriate
irony it was ordered packed alongside that of the presi-
dent of the society, whose dunnage, as befitted an ex-
pert, was as much under weight as the new-comer’s was
over.
This first impression made in the Mountaineers by
the eastern member was not half so exciting as that
made by them upon her. It came over the telephone,
Thursday, July 17, from some unknown headquarters:
“Your dunnage must be ready in forty minutes or
it will not be taken to Fairfax.”
44 The Mountaineer
Alone in a flat, in the strange city of Seattle, dun-
nage too heavy to be packed alone, no expressman
known, or persuadable even if known; this first impres-
sion on the hapless easterner was one of dismay,
promptly developing into fright. Had she not come
across the continent to take that dunnage to Fairfax,
and now even before she had seen them, was she not
already being left behind by these speedy mountain-
eers?
The cloud-veiled mountain at this moment seemed
further off than Washington, D. C., and much more im-
possible. Fortunately, however, entreaties over the
*phone and cries of “help, help,” resounding through
the flat, brought to the rescue a stalwart Swede of the
Ray H. Butler Company, who swept the dunnage into
the bag and had it down to the N. P. R. tracks before
its owner’s preliminary mountain heart-beat had fallen
to ordinary again.
Impression No. 2 came at the station Saturday
morning as one of gratified relief. Here was a large
group of people looking almost as queer as she did.
This depot memory consists largely of boots; partly.
also of knapsacks, bandannas or strange-cornered pack-
ages of luncheon, worn before, behind, sideways, ‘any
old way.” Also there was a look about the crowd no-
ticeably superior, if not actually condescending, to the
other people at the station who did not have a good
time, a mountainous time, so conspicuously advertised
all over them.
I suppose that only in the west would a person start
off up a mountain with seventy-two people, half a
dozen of whom only she had been hastily introduced to;
the other sixty-six she was to become acquainted with,
without even knowing their names, for several days or
a week. Not the least interesting of train impressions
was the friendliness at once evident, which belongs, of
The Mountaineer 45
course, to east and west alike, when out-doors people
come together. The ride to Fairfax was full of this
delightful freedom.
Reminiscence, anticipation and gayety, walked up
the aisle and then back again, hung over the backs or
sides of seats, asked “Where was So-and-so?” and
“Hadn’t such-and-such turned up yet?” Shook hands
heartily in welcome, or invited you to eat luncheon with
a jolly group down the car. Hospitality extended even
to the new-comer’s alpenstock, so hopelessly new and
bare of inscriptions. It was invited to the crowd of ex-
perienced ones stacked up sociably in the corner near
belated dunnage (going, you notice, to Fairfax though
not ready in forty minutes on that scaresome Thurs-
day).
The Saturday walk up the trail was memorable for
the queer rain which kept steadily on but did not wet
anything perceptibly for its pains, though it freshened
the fragrant twin-flowers in luxuriant hollows and
pretty slopes; for the uselessness of the alpenstock as
yet, but which was never to be left alone a minute by
any wayside resting place; for the individuality shown
in costumes, particularly the one protected by an olive
poncho cape which could also serve other protective
uses, topped by a fetching straw hat on which a lovely
pine branch was frescoed and finished off by little,
trim, tall boots that fairly flew along and up, up, up.
There was that halt for luncheon by the brook over-
grown with alders, and then the tramp, tramp, tramp
again along the lovely trail. At night the flaring, roar-
ing fire and expeditiously gotten supper, the friendly
drying of moist garments, and the kindliness of all
these strangers, aroused in the captivated new-comer a
sense of exultation that interesting as all was so far, it
was but a faint promise of excitements to come.
There was no first view of Rainier from the trail
next day. Fogs and clouds kept that in store. But
46 The Mountaineer
surely all of us remember with gratitude that moment
at the end of the day when Dr. Van Horn gathered us
together in the beautiful park that for three weeks was
to be our home. The sunset glowed down the gorge be-
yond the Mother Mount Range. The magnificent
snows of Rainier deep as the ages, white as the Great
White Throne itself, were flushed with rosy color, the
very Jungfrau light.
A history of each day that followed in this happy
camp would not be too detailed for mountaineering
memories. Each day was different but alike delightful
to experience and recall. One felt oppressed at times
with having only five senses, however active, with which
to enjoy the mountain beauty investing us from every
side, or to appreciate the opportunities for companion-
ship. You had to be in a kind of a hurry all the time
to keep up with the sensations, thoughts and impres-
sions that poured in upon you. It was impossible to
convey it to yourself in adequate manner, much less to
friends far away. Consequently, it was noticeable that
the picture post card was the main medium of corre-
spondence. And such post cards!—only those who re-
ceived these mementos know beside ourselves what pho-
tographs we had in camp.
The most abiding and recurrent memory to me is
the spirit of the people. Ninety-two at our greatest
the second week, and fifty-two at our smallest, the last
few days, we formed a nucleus for an ideal state. Here
were authority and rules for which the reason was so
evident in each case that obedience was merely intelli-
gent co-operation. No one was greater or less sure by
talents or temperament. Each made his place by these
alone. This was remarked one day by the cook’s
helper :
“All the people are so good as one anudder—no
richer, make no difference.”
The Mountaineer, Vol. 11. Plate 1}
ON THE STEEP SNOW SLOPES OF THE UPPER WHITE GLACIER Photo by A. W. Archer
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The Mountaineer 47
Almost every kind of vocation was represented
among us; “doctor, lawyer, merchant, chief ;’’ mothers
and fathers, bachelors unabashed, single ladies quite
content, a merry widow, a lover or two, and a bonnie
lass and laddie to complete our family circle.
We varied, too, in weight, between a substantial
two hundred twenty-five—the weight of the law of
course—and slender little eighty-six; as for age we
were all young except two who were just younger.
With all these chances for variation in temperament,
every note of wit and humor was struck in this assem-
blage. It rang out in prolonged laughter from the
slope to the northwest at almost any time of day; it ac-
companied the rites of making or of going to bed, it
radiated in quiet significant smiles from the official
tent; in shafts of repartee it flew from tent to tent.
Not the character and attainments of leaders, nor the
presence of distinguished guests would suffice entirely
to counteract it. Perhaps no single moment so ex-
pressed the prevailing tone in Moraine Park as that, at
the end of every evening program when Dr. Van Horn
rose.
The momentary hush that prefaced the wanderer’s
night song, the instant of silence afterward to hear the
bugles sound “Taps” from the ridges near by, as it
echoed and re-echoed; by the darkened mountains, the
increasing splendor of the stars above; the dying down
of the hospitable fire below—all this was a fitting bene-
diction to the pleasures of the day and a welcome prep-
aration for the night.
As Mr. Curtis once observed casually “The moun-
tains either lift a man up or pull him down.” What
they had maintained in one man was evident the second
Sunday night, when Nature quotations were being
given around the fire.
In his turn, arose from a place on the slope above
48 The Mountaineer
the rest, the member of the club who lives most in the
mountains, and took off his hat before he began.
This opening tribute to the subject of his poem, no
less than to the poet and his words, was felt imme-
diately as an expression of character borne out, in
every line and feature as he stood there in the leaping
firelight, picturesquely outlined against the tall black
firs.
Those Sunday night quotations were a revelation,
by the by, of the love of true poetry and the verbal mem-
ory possessed by the Mountaineers. The more out-
doors the person, the more quotations he knew. It was
something worth while when the man from Alaska gave
“Under the wide and starry sky,” and when the second
in command gave,
“Here’s what I love, the blue sky above,
The wide clear space, and the open place,
And the life that fills.”
Or when Mr. Curtis, with such impressive voice,
quoted :
“Oh, East is East and West is West, and never the
twain shall meet,
Till Earth and Sky stand presently at God’s great
Judgment Seat ;
But there is neither East nor West, Border, nor Breed,
nor Birth,
When two strong men stand face to face, tho they come
from the ends of the earth!”
Beside all this the president of the club proved a
veritable poet-laureate. From time to time he with-
drew to a cloistered space in Marmot Park and built a
friendly fire. Warmed by this and soothed by unfail-
ing cigars he celebrated in turn our mountain,
The Mountaineer 49
“King in ermine robes of crystal snow,” our glacier
lilies, alpine firs, and even our Carbon Glacier, in verses
highly acceptable at evening assembly.
In a list of camp talents, dramatics would take a
high place. I still seem to see bearing down upon me
in moments of review the chief of the Igorrotes, be-
jeweled with kitchen ware and garnished with dish
towels, managing his heavily socked feet like an abor-
igine.
We had an artist, too, among us, whose sketch-book
was filled before his departure with pictures of distin-
guished characters heard or seen about the camp (not
omitting the solicitous mosquito), “speaking likeness”
most of these were, eloquent as the artist’s evening
pantomimes.
The skill, strength and general expertness of the
girls and women among the Mountaineers, impressed
this che-cha-ko especially.
Their outfits and contrivances for comfort and dis-
patch were fairly masculine in ingenuity, and no less
feminine in taste. Going into a neighbor’s tent one
day—not to borrow please, understand—lo, in the mar-
vellous wall-pocket were stowed away the contents of
a bureau and writing-desk combined, with one tiny
pocket for a still tinier book—the highly appropriate
poems of a Tentmaker—the Rubaiyat itself.
Camp calls and camp talks are continually echoing
back to me. I wish I could hear the Apache yell in
the morning instead of the galloping milk wagons. The
cawing of improvised crows making merry near the
head of the trail, the bugle to assembly and to meals;
the orders down the line; the wonderful Tyrolean yodel-
ing, for all once more would I barter a Boston Symph-
ony concert, and the clatter of the Wright aeroplane.
The camp metaphors were so deliciously sophisti-
cated. ‘Throw out the life line” came with vividness
50 The Mountaineer
from the party below waiting coldly if not impatiently,
for the party above to get through using that responsi-
ble article, and “I heard a voice, way up in the moun-
tain-top—tip top” was enthusiastically and frequently
illustrated in fact as well as in song.
Even the gloves talked: “I’m Mollie’s, whose are
you?” The buttons displayed stag’s heads, the over-
alls were marked “Black Bears.” The alpenstocks re-
cited histories as long as they were, burned in with
fire, if not with blood; the hats bragged loudest of all,
“Olympus,” “Mt. Baker,” “Mt. Rainier.”
At this point, if at any, a che-cha-ko, who is in no
sense at all a tip-topper, should modestly pause. Not
for her the pains or glories of the summit, the invig-
orating comparisons and joyous congratulations.
Recollections here become too personal, too numer-
ous to share. The humming-birds, the banks of heather,
the violets, and all the other flowers. The glacial Cas-
cades in the morning, the sunsets and heavens at night,
and always Mt. Rainier above us. These all are
“mountain voices calling softly to me.”
In the future when they speak again may all our
Mountaineers be able to answer:
“T’m coming, I’m coming,
And my heart is light and free,
I hear the mountain voices
Calling, softly to me.”
The Mountaineer 51
INDIAN LEGENDS OF MT. RAINIER.
W. D. Lyman.
Among the most interesting and beautiful of all In-
dian stories, perhaps those connected with the great
mountain peaks are first. As is fitting, the most strik-
ing are those whose scenes are laid in and around Mt.
Rainier.
By reason of the Indian superstitions in regard to
the great peaks, the Indians can seldom be prevailed on
to ascend their summits. Some people represent that
this is simply a part of the general superstition which
the red men have for any form of hard work, but I in-
cline to the opinion that it is just a straight supersti-
tion. On account of this idea the first explorers of the
great peaks have found it very difficult to reach the
summit.
One of these legends, the scene of which is Mt. Rai-
nier, may be called the Indian legend of Rip Van Win-
kle. According to this there was an old man living
near the mountain who was very avaricious and desir-
ous of getting much “hiaqua,” by which they signify
shell money, still common among the Indians of the
Sound. This old Indian seems to have been on very in-
timate terms with Sahale and kept begging him to sup-
ply him with more money by magic. Sahale, however,
was aware that this greed for money was liable to make
the old Indian a victim of Kakahete, the chief of the
demons, and therefore he always refused to grant him
any magical power.
But once Moosmoos, the elk divinity, obtained a
tomanowas power over the old man and whispered
magic in his ear, telling him that upon the summit of
the mountain he might find much hiaqua and become
52 The Mountaineer
the richest of all men. Accordingly, going back to his
tent, he informed his wife that he was going on a long
hunt, but in reality he was setting forth for the summit
of the mountain. He climbed almost to the summit on
the first day, and the next morning, at the rising of the
sun, he stood upon the mighty summit. There he dis-
covered that there was a great valley in the summit of
the mountain, all filled with snow except one place in
the middle. Here was a lake of black water and at
one end of it were three large rocks. The old man was
confident that these were tomanowas rocks, for one
was shaped like a salmon’s head, the next like a camas
root, and the third like the head of his own totem or
divinity, Moosmoos, the elk.
Our hero, preceiving these symbolical rocks, imme-
diately concluded that this must be the place where the
hiaqua was secreted. At once therefore he began to
dig, with an elkhorn pick which he had brought along,
at the foot of the rock which was shaped like the head
of Moosmoos. At this a number of otters came out of
the lake and gathered around in a circle watching him
dig. When the man had struck the ground a number
of times equal to the number of otters, they began to
pound the ground with their tails. Still he continued
to dig, and about the time of the setting of the sun he
turned over a great block of stone underneath which
he discovered a cavity filled with great strings of hia-
qua, enough to make him the richest man in all the
land.
But now the greedy adventurer made a great mis-
take. He loaded himself down with the strings of hia-
qua, but left not a single shell as a votive offering to the
tomanowas powers by whose magic he had made the
discovery. Sahale was greatly displeased at such un-
grateful conduct, and all the tomanowas powers com-
bined to show their wrath. Skamson, the thunder-bird,
Tootah, the thunder, and Colasnass, the snow god, all
The Mountaineer 53
swooped down from the clouds, turned the sky black,
and blew the old man with the strings of hiaqua about
him across the rocks and buried him in the snow.
Out of the darkness came the awful voice of Sahale de-
nouncing his wickedness. Also the terrified old man
began now to hear the mocking voice of Kahatete and
his attendant demons. The whole frame work of nature
seemed about to disrupt, for after the snow storm there
came a burst of volcanic fire upon the mountain sum-
mit, the air became thick and hot, and streams of water
poured down the mountain side.
In spite of all this confusion of nature the old man
seems to have retained his consciousness and he began
to think how he might propitiate the offended deities.
He accordingly dropped one of his strings of hiaqua
as an offering, but this seems to have been a mere mock-
ery and the demons and the winds kept howling at him
in derisive tones, “Hiaqua! hiaqua!”’ Then the old man
laid down one string after another of the hiaqua until
they were all gone. After this surrender of his treas-
ure he fell upon the ground and entered into the sleep
country. When he awoke he found himself at the very
place where he had gone to sleep the night before he
climbed to the summit. Being very hungry he gathered
camas roots with which to refresh himself, and while
eating he began to have many thoughts in regard to his
life and doings. His “tum-tum,” as the Indians would
say (heart), was much softened as he contemplated his
greed for hiaqua. He found that he no longer cared
for hiaqua, and that his mind was calm and tranquil
and benevolent. Moreover he went to look at himself
in a pool, and discovered that he had marvelously
changed. His hair had become long and white as snow.
The mountain, itself, had changed its contour. The sun
shone brightly, the trees glistened with new leaves, the
mountain meadows were sweet with the perfume of
flowers, the birds sung in the trees, the mighty moun-
54 The Mountaineer
tain towered calm, tranquil and majestic into the deep
blue sky, glistening with new fallen snow, all nature
seemed to rejoice, and the old Indian found that he was
in a new world. And now he seemed to remember
where he was, and he made his way without difficulty
to his old tent. There he found an old woman with
white hair, whom he did not at first recognize, but soon
discovered to be his own “klootchman.” She told him
that he had been gone many suns and moons, and that
in the meantime she had been digging camas and trad-
ing for hiaqua, of which she had accumulated much.
The old man now perceived all the mistakes of his
former avaricious life and settled down in his own
home upon the banks of the Cowlitz in peace and con-
tentment, becoming a great tomanowas man and a coun-
sellor and adviser to the Indians in all times of trouble.
He was worshipped by them for his wisdom and benevo-
lence, as well as for his strange experience on the sum-
mit of the mountain.
The prettiest and most poetical of all Indian legends
in connection with Mt. Rainier is that of Lawiswis, the
queen of the fairies. According to this legend, Nekahni,
which is another name for the great spirit, lived upon
the slopes of Mt. Rainier in the upper portion of what
we now Call Paradise Valley. There he kept his flocks
of wild goats and from that lofty height he watched
and ruled the earth spread out before him. Now there
lived in the lower part of the valley a lovely creature
called Lawiswis. She was of the nature of both sea
shells and roses, so that when she went to the shore
the sea shells all worshiped her and caught the dew of
the morning as a nectar for her to drink. When she
was in Paradise the roses made her like obeisance and
served her with like nectar which they caught from the
morning dew. She was also the queen of the fairies, and
of everything beautiful, a sort of mountain Titania, in
fact. _Nekahni loved this fairy queen and built her a
The Mountaineer, Vol. II. Plate 25
Copyright 1909 by P. V. Caesar
AVALANCHE ON WILLIS WALL FALLING 5,000 FEET
The Mountaineer 55
bower in Paradise, which was surmounted with masses
of wild roses, and these roses at that time were pure
white and had no thorns. Part of the time Nekahni
dwelt high up on the mountain watching his wild goats
or communing with Skamson and Tootah and Colas-
nass, and part of the time he would descend to dwell
with Lawiswis in her fairy bower.
Now there was at that time dwelling in the dark
and sullen gorge of the Nisually River a famous
Skookum named Memelek. Memelek was a frightful
looking creature. She was clothed in strips of cougar
skins, fastened together with the fingers of slaughtered
fairies. She had snakes around her neck and waist,
and when she wished to kill anything she would send
these snakes to bite them. Memelek hated Lawiswis
on account of her beauty and innocence, and especially
because Nakahni favored her so much more than her-
self. Accordingly, one day when Nekahni was busily
engaged with his goats, high up on the rocks of what we
now call Gibralter, Memelek determined to wreak her
wicked vengence upon the helpless and innocent Lawis-
wis. She therefore stole up out of the gorge to the
bower in Paradise and letting loose her snakes bade
them go and sting to death the fairy queen who was ly-
ing innocently asleep. And now the roses around the
bower saw the imminent danger of their adored mis-
tress. What could they do? Nekahni was far away
and could not come in person, but by a magical peti-
tion they let him know the danger, and instantly, just
as the loathsome reptiles were crawling upon them, the
roses turned a bright red, and were covered with sharp
thorns which pierced the coils of the reptiles so that
they turned back in dismay and fled to their hideous
mistress. Thus Lawiswis was saved and the discom-
fited Memelek was forbidden ever to come up out of the
deep gorge to the Nisqually and there she has remained
ever since.
56 The Mountaineer
A KNAPSACK TRIP INTO SPRAY PARK.
WAYNE SENSENIG.
On Monday morning, August 3, fifty-five mountain-
eers left permanent camp in Moraine Park on a knap-
sack trip through Spray Park to Crater Lake. We de-
scended to the Carbon Glacier at eight o’clock and, fol-
lowing the zig-zag course cruised out by our leader, we
reached the lateral moraine on the west side at eight-
forty. The moraine at this point was so precipitous
that it was necessary to cut steps all the way to its
ridge. We crossed the boulders beyond the ridge with-
out difficulty and entered upper Spray Park at nine
o’clock.
Upper Spray Park is an open country (six to seven
thousand feet in elevation), with here and there a
group of stunted trees. These trees with their gnarled
branches and innate ruggedness proclaim in no uncer-
tain manner their struggles with the winter hurri-
canes. Some of these trees, less than ten feet high,
have trunks more than two feet through and suggest
“Sermons in trees.”
Spray Park contains many small lakes or ponds
and numerous waterfalls. We proceeded up a small
valley to its head and then began to climb in earnest.
We ascended terrace upon terrace pausing a while
above the steepest of these to catch our breath and to
drink in the beauty of this wonderland all about us
and to gaze at the ever changing old mountain, sil-
houetted against a sky of deepest blue.
We walked upon a carpet of heather, both the blue
variety and the white with its waxen bells, and among
the heather grew acres and acres of many other flowers.
The Mountaineer 57
The Glacier Lily grew almost everywhere, one speci-
men bore five flowers on a single stem and one of these
flowers was four and a half inches across. The crim-
son Paint Brush, the Shooting Star, and a variety of
yellow flowers added color to the scene. We enjoyed
spring all over again.
We continued to gain elevation until we reached a
low ridge of loose rocks, just west of Cataract Can-
yon, from which we had a fine view of lower Spray
Park. About a mile and a half ahead of us was a group
of ponds and just beyond the ponds arose Fay Peak,
very steep and practically bare of trees but covered
with grass and heather. A goat could not conceal him-
self on this, the south, side. The summit consists of
an enormous rock with many spires and curiously
enough a dozen or more trees find here a foothold defy-
ing the storms. This mass of rock has a rectangular
appearance from a distance and resembles a large
castle.
The photographers hurried ahead of the main party
to climb high enough on Fay Peak to get better views of
the mountains. The rest of the party proceeded to the
ponds above mentioned and there, among the flowers
and the most delightful surroundings imaginable, we
enjoyed a rest of three quarters of an hour until the
photographers returned.
We then picked up the trail to Crater Lake. The
trees became more numerous and very much larger as
we lost elevation. This end of the trail consists of a
series of switch-backs and from many points one can
get splendid views of Spray Falls which drops from
ledge to ledge, a total drop of about eight hundred feet.
I shall not attempt to describe Spray Falls as a series
of photographs alone can do justice to it.
The trail descends almost to the foot of Spray Falls
and is here on a level with the Mowich river bed but it
immediately leaves the river and gains elevation very
58 The Mountaineer
gradually until Eagle Cliff is reached. Eagle Cliff, al-
most perpendicular, is eighteen hundred feet above the
forest-lined canyon of the Mowich and a splendid view
of Mt. Rainier may be had from this point. One also
gets a splendid view of the canyon, the walls of which
consist of a series of saw tooth ridges radiating from
Mt. Rainier which rises about nine thousand feet above
this point. From Eagle Cliff the Mowich Glacier is in
full view and ends in a great mass of loose rocks.
From Eagle Cliff the trail bears in a northwesterly
direction toward Crater Lake. The trail, a sylvan col-
onnade, winds through a primeval forest in which the
Alaska Cedar, a most graceful tree, is much in evi-
dence.
We reached Crater Lake about 5:30 p.m. The lake
is three quarters of a mile long by half a mile wide and
is surrounded on all sides by high hills. We camped on
a small peninsula on the west side of the lake from
which point one can best appreciate its wild beauty.
On the east side of the lake facing us, were the Castle
Crags, which from this point bear a striking resemb-
lance to Fay Peak from upper Spray Park. The Cas-
tle Crags, however, are more beautiful than Fay Peak,
if possible. A small portion of the summit of Rainier
is also visible, the bulk of the mountain being eclipsed
by the nearer hills.
However we realized we couldn’t exist very well on
scenery alone so the men rustled wood for two large
fires while the women cooked the dinner. After dinner
we assembled about the camp fire. We listened to very
interesting talks on the Geology and Indian folk lore
of this locality and we sang many songs. After a very
success camp fire session, we departed to our blank-
ets and soon it was morning.
We breakfasted while gazing at the reflection of
the mountains on the glassy surface of the water. A
~
The Mountaineer, Vol. IT. Plate 27
Photo by Asahel Curtis
“THE LINE”
The Mountaineer, Vol. TI. Pate 28
Photo by Asahel Curtis
MAJOR E. S. INGRAHAM ON ST. ELMO PASS AT THE SITE OF HIS FORMER
CAMP, SHOWING ONE OF THE ROCK BEDS THAT HE MADE YEARS BEFORE
WHEN THE PASS WAS NAMED
sang pursy <q GOGL WSAAdoD UAINIVY LNOOW TO AGIS NUGAHLUYUON GHD “VIVAA SITIIA
i +
¢> 2
og
LT 9101 d ‘TT (JOA Shoowmpyunoyy oye
The Mountaineer 59
violet color was quite noticeable in these reflected
images.
On account of a very heavy dew, we spread our
blankets in the sunshine where they quickly dried and
at about eight o’clock we began our return journey to
Moraine Park. We stopped at Eagle Cliff for another
look and noticed that clouds were beginning to settle
over the mountain. We made the ascent of the switch-
back without difficulty, stopping at every vantage point
to look at Spray Falls. Along this switch-back there
were beautiful specimens of Squaw Grass and many
other less showy flowers.
At the top of the switch-back we found ourselves in
a fog and were unable to see fifty yards. This fog
stayed with us all the way back tocamp. The whistling
marmots, the day before, piped their shrill warnings of
the approach of an unknown invader, and the birds
were very lively, but now the only living creatures
abroad were a few jays and magpies.
It was a drab day and we were glad, indeed, when
we had crossed the Carbon Glacier, and reached our
permanent camp in Moraine Park about 6 p. m.
LIST OF MEMBERS ON MT. RAINIER OUTING.
Abel, H. V. Barnes, Cornelia.
Albertson, Chas. Bailey, Winona.
Archer, A. W. Brayton, Fannie E.
Blake, J. Fred. Bigelow, Alida J.
Best, John A., Jr. Bronson, Richard Lea.
Brayton, Annie C. Buck, Richard.
Belt, H. C. Colkett, W. J., Jr.
Belt, Mrs. H. C. Cameron, Crissie.
Baptie, H. May. Curtis, Mrs. Florence.
60 The Mountaineer
Curtis, Asahel.
Coenen, A. Margaret.
Chesterman, Ethel.
Caesar, P. V.
Caesar, G. V.
Clark, L. W.
David, Elizabeth.
Dayton, Clara C.
Dwyer, May I.
Denman, Asahel H.
Eaton, Dr. Cora Smith.
Elmer, Maud V.
Emerson, G. D.
Farrer, Chas. M.
Farrer, Anna.
Feree, Nita J.
Fahnstock, John F.
Freund, Elizabeth.
Garvin, Cora.
Hanson, Olaf.
Howard, Anna B.
Howard, Grace E.
Howard, Henry.
Hutchinson, Minnie.
Humes, Grant.
Hill, M. F.
Harnden, H. W.
Hutchinson, A. H.
Hurd, Roy.
Ingraham, Maj. E. S.
Ingraham, Kenneth.
Jenson, I. M.
Krows, Melvin A.
Knispel, Hans Otto.
Koehler, Miss L. B.
Leckenby, Mollie.
Lovering, Lydia E,
Moore, Harv. E.
McLean, Murray.
Merrill, A. R.
Morse, Alice A.
McGregor, P. M.
Moyer, 8. L.
Morrill, F. O.
Mills, Blake D.
Mills, Mrs. Blake D.
McFarland, Winifred.
McCormick, J. A.
Meany, Prof. E. *5.
Nelson, L. A.
Nettleton, Lulie.
Price, W. M.
Patton, Miss G. N.
Price, Mary.
Reed, Miss Katherine.
Raymond, Rena.
Smith, Miss Lulie.
Southard, F. 8.
Sass, Miss K. M.
Sensenig, Wayne.
Stauber, Anna H.
Schachts, G. N.
Scholes, Josephine.
Scholes, Stella.
Scholes, Emma.
Stevens, Dr. B. R.
Stevens, Dr. E. F.
Sanford, Freda.
Tuttle, Gladys M.
Terry, R. L.
Van Horn, F. J.
Van Horn, Robert.
The Mountaineer 61
LOCAL WALKS.
Luis NETTLETON.
A popular feature of the Mountaineers’ Club is the
series of Local Walks conducted every two weeks dur-
ing the winter. These walks are in the hands of a com-
mittee who arrange routes, estimate expense, appoint
a leader, and send out notices to the members.
On designated dates, at the appointed meeting place,
are gathered a merry group of people attired for walk-
ing, and in costume sufficiently substantial to meet
with impunity any weather the uncertain Puget Sound
climate may ordain. City pavements do not appeal to
these pedestrians and taking car or steamer to where
country roads or trails may be found, they are off for a
tramp that brings a glow to the cheek, a light to the
eye and an appetite for the knapsack lunch always car-
ried. A few typical walks may be mentioned.
November 22, 1908, Mr. S. L. Wardwell led a party
along the new Cedar River Pipe Line to see the con-
‘struction work on the new main.
On January 17, 1909, the club members were ac-
corded the privilege of visiting the grounds of the
Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition, under the guidance
of Miss Roberta Terry, thus giving them a glimpse of
a great exposition in the making.
One of the most strenuous excursions was a sixteen-
mile walk under the leadership of Mr. P. M. Mac-
Gregor. Through alternate rain, snow and sun the
party walked from Newport, past Lake Samamish up
a steep trail to Coal Creek and the mines, then on
through New Castle to Kennydale.
62 The Mountaineer
A novelty in local walks was the long remembered
one when the members followed Mr. Thomas Church by
a trail of confetti. It led the mystified followers a
merry chase but proved a splendid practice in trail
finding.
A particularly beautiful trip was that led by Mr. H.
C. Belt from Riverton to Three Tree Point.
On May 16, 1909, a large company assembled at Col-
man Dock and took the 7:30 steamer for Bremerton
where Mr. John A. Best, of that place, joined them and
led a delightful walk to the rhododendron fields.
Since these trips have been instituted the club has
explored the entire shore line of Lake Washington, the
country south of Renton, and has followed many of the
old trails in the vicinity of Bremerton and Port
Orchard.
Fort Lawton and West Point Lighthouse have been
visited, and the prairies between Tacoma and Olympia
have twice been the route of pleasant two-day trips.
Are these walks worth while? A thousand times
yes, for besides the information culled, those participat-
ing are benefitted by the fresh air, the invigorating ex-
ercise, and the pleasure of contact with wholesome, con-
genial comrades.
63
The Mountaineer
LOCAL WALKS—1908-9.
No. Date
46 |Oct. 25, 1908
47 |Nov. 8, 1908
48 |Noyv. 22, 1908
49 |Dec. . 6, 1908
50 |Dec. 20, 1908
51 |Jan 38, 1909
52 |Jan. 17, 1909
53 |Jan. 31, 1909
54 |Feb. 7, 1909
55 |Feb. 14, 1909
56 |Mar. 21, 1909
57 |Apr. 4, 1909
58 |Apr. 10, 1909
59 |Apr. 18, 1909
60 |May 2, 1909
61 |May 16, 1909
62 |June 13, 1909
63 |June 27, 1909
64 Oct 3, 1909
65 |Oct 17, 1909
66 |Oct 31, 1909
Objective Point. Distance.
American Lake to Spanaway pee SNOB aipaaveleliy s[susheieinee are 6
Chico to Wildcat Lake.......... PO LOOM Ne GO 15
Beacon Hill Reservoir to Renton. . Siremeucomi Cero pare ee Sea nes,
Northup Landing to Newport............ Sr eareane siaiateveiets vere
Edgewater to Christopher......... sie eieroeisae Sierras toebstae ereve LO:
Hall’s Lake to Edmonds.......... SMC Linaronne ase tae Mere cere
A.-Y.-P. Exposition Grounds........ aracapareneratatc,cvatotestieh acetevere Teer ak
Port Orchard to Bremerton........... ahh HARE eal foe diets)
Newport, Lake Sammamish, Kennydale.. elerers Osis See ee .16
Colby to. Port, Orchardacsssnets cee enehery Susmeieuedehcwer oveteuaiensue are 8
Hall’s Lake to: Hdmonds........... Lgtah-w Veh ace Mace Pewee sila lob waah 12
MorusUawitOul-tOaWiestie Olt lal ott cic ceticamcenteresemie-ersic «ecie ser}
Renton, Cedar River and ape alered SURG sire. Slecreco TOTOMESE Sia raw ioe Teime% 8
Silverdwle to Hood's Canals sss cea see - Mahe lePeraieisre ea sa euele 12
Riverton to Three Tree Point. nee Rey mney Oras Manietensiee Ae ate, se verls seus .14
CHICoOxto” Walkor, KAU Hp ercteta et oversee. uns uareharscnvotens Gaeret oars ss aceon 10
Newport to Kennydale......... ni pensrters AS ERO REL ceere 8
Renton, Cedar River, Elliott. Steuotarekenetefsie e.clo eiafamaterain Mian a tenet
VERON ETS ANG sceccrscrckeusnc ranches coach tno eran eee irene 8
Mercer’s Landing to May Credle. ses a ace iatis ord cree Wehctaie loienenere 10
Americdne Ake toms Cella COO se sise ius ieiecueteicasieee ein teenie 10
Leader. Attendance.
Grigsie=Cameron=niesscs. oes
Geo. L. Hannaman .........
BS. L Wardwellina.. ses crore
MITA. MCICATi ess s1e eet
MSTivTT SICIOW BS ie <eltiscere ace ere atte
Mhomasee hurchi foparctiasecanare
Roberta Lertys eves eae aheverens
WOUTMMA BES dil vestnw ctercmene 4
BME OMCGre gor i ncninetecent
Gertrude. Smith) 224...
Thomas: Church). erieoss
Ds LOGE AKC ove, sta ee telterena core
Henry” ©) Howard, sJtne. «>
ELCN EY eH. sO CLeI ei eahayereteya
Hs CC; Belt misroateGitecne: arene
JODN VAS Best, 0 Litstevensinrseemtevens
FUODELTASELIy om eisisiskersretokensvene
Henry- C-Howard, dre...
Hattie A Strano castes coo
MelvinivAcaJSrows weremirerc scr
Tacoma Mtrs.’ Leaders......
LOCAL WALK COMMITTED,
MELVIN A. KROWS, Chairman.
L, A. NELSON,
ALICE FRYER,
J. FRED BLAKE,
MURRAY McLEAN,
ANNA HOWARD.
64 The Mountaineer
NOTES.
Through the courtesy of several business houses of
Seattle, the Mountaineers were enabled to make a very
creditable showing at the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Expo-
sition.
The display was shown in the Forestry Building,
and represented a model camp. The Puget Sound Tent
and Duck Company loaned a valuable silk duck tent,
the Seattle Hardware Company sent the commissary
outfit, the Rubber Store a sleeping bag, and Mr. C. C.
Filson contributed a complete personal outfit.
The beautiful display of mountain flowers was pre-
pared by a committee of club members, consisting of
Prof. J. B. Flett, Dr. Cora Smith Eaton and Miss
Winona Bailey.
* * *
The Mountaineers wish to acknowledge the German-
Austrian Year Book presented to the club by Mr. Otto
Hans Knispel of Austria. It is an interesting publica-
tion and a valuable addition to the collection of moun-
taineering literature.
* * *
The Mountaineers’ Club is always glad to furnish
information to parties interested in the mountains of
Washington. It is in a position to recommend reliable
guides and outfitters. Any requests should be ad-
dressed to the club secretary.
* * *
The publication committee has been aided by the
advertisers in the annual, and it is earnestly hoped
that members of the club will patronize these advertis-
ers when purchasing, and also state that they are
Mountaineers. Thus encouraging them to continue ad-
vertising in the pages of “The Mountaineer.”
The Mountaineer 65
The Mountaineers now have a valuable collection of
mountain pictures hung in the Chamber of Commerce
rooms in the Central Building. This collection consists
of ten handsomely framed enlargements of photographs
taken by Mr. Asahel Curtis in the Olympics, on Mt.
Baker and Mt. Rainier.
* * *
The Mountaineers are in hearty sympathy with the
Sierra Club of California in its gallant fight to save
the Hetch Hetchy valley, as one of the beauty spots of
America, and have given and will give them all the aid
in their power.
* * *
We are indebted to Augustine and Kyer for splen-
did service in supplying provisions for our commissary
department. Their prompt delivery and the excellent
quality of the supples has aided our outings ma-
terially.
BIBLIOGRAPHY.
MT. RAINIER.
ANDERSON, ADA WOODRUFF. To the summit of Mount
Rainier. (In Outing, Vol. 38, pp. 386-392. July, 1901.) 7
illus.
Heart of the red firs. 1908. pp. 64-84. (Fiction.)
ARTMAN, FRANK O. Climbing Mt. Rainier alone. (In
Washington Magazine. Vol. 2, pp. 51-4. Sept., 1906.)
ASCENT of Mount Rainier. (In Nation, Vol. 23, p. 312, Nov.
23, 1876.) Letter from H. Stevens, reply from S. F. Em-
mons.
ASCENT of Mt. Tacoma. (In Leslie’s Weekly, Vol. 85, p. 138,
Aug. 26, 1897.) 1 illus.
BAGLEY, CLARENCE B. First ascent of Mt. Rainier. (In
his In the beginning. Seattle. 1905. pp. 11-15.)
Same. (In Meeker, Ezra. Pioneer reminiscences of Puget
Sound, pp. 475-479.) Extract from diary of Dr. Wm. F.
Tolmie, giving account of trip to Mt. Rainier, Aug., 1833.
BAILEY, GEORGE. Ascent of Mt. Tacoma. (In Overland
Monthly, n. s. Vol. 8, pp. 266-278, Sept., 1886.) small map.
BROOKS WILLIAM A. Camping in Paradise. (In Mazama.
Vol. 2, pp. 267-8. Dec. 1905.)
With Sierrrans and Mazamas, July, 1905. (In Appalachia,
Vol. 11, pp. 114-125, May, 1906.)
66 The Mountaineer
BROWN, HARRY H. From surf to summit. (In Overland
Monthly,—new series—Vol. 46, pp. 447-455, Nov., 1905.) 5
illus.
BUTTERWORTH, HEZEKIAH. Aig-zag journeys in the great
northwest. pp. 42-50.
COLBY, WILLIAM E. The Sierra Club on Mt. Rainier. (In
Mazama, Vol. 2, pp. 212-215, Dec., 1905.)
COLEMAN, EDMUND T. The ascent of Mt. Rainier. (In
Bates, H. W., ed. Illustrated Travels. pp. 161-167.)
COLLINS, JOSIAH. Tacoma vs. Rainier. (In Nation. Vol.
56, pp. 329-330, May 4, 1893.)
COULTER, J. M. and ROSE J. N. Hesperogena, a new genus
of umbelliferae from Mt. Rainier. (In U. S. National
herbarium. 1899. Vol. 5, p. 203.)
CUTTER, CHARLES E. A trip to the wonderland of the
Cascades. (In Country Life in America. Vol. 14, pp. 170-
171. June, 1909.) 45 illus.
DAVIDSON, GEORGE. The name “Mt. Rainier.” (In Sierra
Club bulletin, Vol. 6, pp. 87-99, Jan., 1907.)
ELECTRIC power from Mt. Rainier. (In Review of Reviews,
Vol. 28, pp. 206-208, Aug., 1903.) 4 illus.
EMMONS, S. F. Ascent of Mt. Rainier, with sketch of sum-
mit. (In Nation, Vol. 23, Nov. 25, 1876, p. 313.)
Letter to C. King on glaciers of Mt. Tachoma, or Rainier.
pp. 161-165, of King, C. On the discovery of actual glaciers
in the mountains of the Pacific slope. (In American
Journal of Science. Vol. 101, pp. 157-167, March, 1871.)
Extracts from same. (In U. S. Geological Survey. 5th an-
nual report. 1883-84. pp. 335-339.)
Volcanoes of the United States Pacific coast. (In Bulletin
of the American Geographical Society. Vol. 9, No. 4, pp.
31-61. Feb. 6, 1877.) Mt. Rainier, pp. 44-61.
FAY, CHARLES E. Through Appalachian eyes. (In Mazama.
Vol. 2, pp. 208-211. Dec., 1905.) 2 illus.
FINCK, HENRY T. Pacific coast scenic tour. N. Y. 1891.
pp. 209-2138, 223, 229-230.
FIRST attempt to ascend Mt. Rainier. (In Washington his-
torical quarterly. Vol. 6, No. 1. pp. 77-81. Oct., 1906.)
Includes extract from diary of W. F. Tolmie, who at-
tempted ascent in 1833.
FOUNTAIN, PAUL. The eleven eaglets of the West. Lond.
1905. See Index. 5
FULLER, ARCHIMEDES E. comp. Hand-book of Washing-
LODs LOM panies
GLASCOCK, RAGLAN. How we climbed Rainier. (In Sunset
mag. Vol. 10, pp. 49-55. Nov., 1905.)
GOVE, CHARLES H. Night on the summit of Mt. Rainier.
(In Steel, Will G. Mountains of Oregon. Portland. 1890.
pp. 43-51.)
IDDINGS, J. P. Notes on a rock from Mt. Rainier. (In U.S.
Geological Survey. 12th annual report. 1891. pt. 1, p.
612.)
INKERSLEY, ARTHUR. To the top of Mt. Rainier with the
Mazamas. (In Good words. Vol. 42, p. 101.)
The Mountaineer 67
KARSHNER, W. M. Snow flowers. (In the Northwest Jour-
nal, Vol. 12, No. 5, pp. 6-8. Jan., 1901.)
KAUTZ, Gen. A. V. Ascent of Mt. Rainier. (In Overland
monthly, o. s. Vol. 14, pp. 3938-403. May, 1875.) See also
Oregon native son. Vol. 1, pp. 328-9. Oct., 1899.)
KING, MOSES, ed. King’s handbook of the United States.
Buffalo, 1896. pp. 867-8.
LANDES, HENRY. Field notes on Mt. Rainier. (In Mazama.
Vol. 2, pp. 220-3. Dec., 1905. 2 illus.)
LeCONTE, JOSEPH N. The motion of the Nisqually glacier,
Mt. Rainier. (In Sierra Club bulletin. Vol. 6, pp. 108-14.
2 illus. 2 diagrams.)
LELAND FRANK B. Sunrise on Mt. Rainier. (In Mazama.
Vol. 2, pp. 268-9. Dec., 1905.)
LYMAN, WILLIAM D. Rainier Indian legends. (In Mazama.
Vol. 2, pp. 203-7. Dec., 1905.)
The Switzerland of the northwest. 1. The mountains. (In
Overland monthly, n. s. Vol. 2, pp. 300-12. Sept., 1883.
Mt. Rainier. p. 302-4.)
McADIE, ALEXANDER G. Mt. Rainier, Mt. Shasta and Mt.
Whitney as sites for meteorological observatories. (In
Sierra club bulletin. Vol. 6, pp. 7-14. 1 illus.)
McALISTER, E. H. Professor McClure’s report relative to the
altitude of Mt. Rainier. (In Mazama. Vol. 2. pp. 34-40.
Oct., 1900.)
MAYO, EARL. Electric power plant below Mt. Rainier. (In
Scientific American. Vol. 88, p. 389. May 23, 1903.)
MAZAMAS on Mt. Rainier. (In Harper’s Weekly. Vol. 41, p.
850. Aug. 28, 1897.)
MEEKER, EZRA. Who named Tacoma? Address before the
Washington historical society, Jan. 22, 1904.
METCALFE, GERTRUDE. The Rainier climb. (In Mazama.
Vol. 2, pp. 224-34. Dec., 1905. 18 illus.)
MONROE, ANNE SHANNON. Climbing Mount Tacoma. (In
World Today. Vol. 9, pp. 1047-58. Oct., 1905.)
MONTGOMERY, J. PEAK. The Mazamas outing at Mt.
Rainier, illustrated by photographs by Ross. (In Over-
land monthly. Vol. 32, pp. 114-123. Aug., 1898.)
MOUNT Rainier. (In Scientific American supplement, Vol.
53, p. 21882. March 1, 1902.)
MOUNT Rainier National Park. Reports of acting superin-
tendent to the secretary of the interior. (In U. S. dept.
of the interior. Reports. See especially Report for 1904.
pp. 199-204.)
MOUNTAIN Lore. (In Oregon native son. Vol. 1, pp. 21,
328-9.)
MUIR, JOHN. Our national parks. Bost. 1901. pp. 29-81.
The ascent of Mt. Rainier. (In Pacific monthly. Vol. 8, pp.
196-202. Nov., 1902. 8 illus.)
NORTH Pacific History Company. History of the Pacific
Northwest. 1899. Vol. 2, p. 153.
OEBBEKE, K. Ueber das gestein vom Tacoma-berg, Wash-
ington territory. (In Neues Jahrbuch. Vol. 1, pp. 222-6.
Stuttgart. 1885.)
68 The Mountaineer
PANGBORN, EDWARD L. How Uncle Sam aids the state.
(In Washington Magazine. Vol. 2, pp. 3-11. September,
1906.)
PARSONS, EDWARD T. Rainier. (In Mazama. Vol. 2, pp.
25-34. Oct., 1900. 3 illus.)
PIERCE County Pioneer Assoc. Commemorative celebration
at Sequalitchew lake. 1906. pp. 93-5. illus.
PIPER, C. V. The flora of Mt. Rainier. (In Mazama. Vol. 2,
pp. 93-117. April, 1901.)
PLUMMER, FRED G. Mt. Rainier Forest Reserve, Washing-
ton. (In U. 8S. Geological Survey. 21st annual report.
1899-1900. pt. 5, pp. 81-148. See also pp. 14, 16.)
PRATT, LOUIS W. Tacoma’s attraction for the tourist. (In
Wasaington magazine. Vol. 1, pp. 371-8. July, 19vv.)
PROSCH, THOMAS W. General McCarver named Tacoma.
(pam.)
RANDALL, MARION. The making of a Sierra club map. (In
Out west. Vol. 24, pp. 396-404. 7 illus.)
The sky line of the Tatoosh range, Mt. Rainier national
park. (In Sierra club bulletin. Vol. 6, pp. 15-21. Jan.,
1906. 4 illus.
RATCLIFF, EVELYN MARIANNE. The Sierra club’s ascent
of Mt. Rainier. (In Sierra club bulletin. Vol. 6, pp. 1-6.
Jan., 1906. 7 illus.)
REPORT of the joint committee of the Mazama club and the
Sierra club on the Mt. Rainier national park. (In Sierra
club bulletin. Vol. 6, pp. 44-50. Jan., 1906.)
RICH, G. S. Mt. Rainier coal fields. (In Engineering and
mining journal. Vol. 79, pp. 660-1. April 6, 1905.)
RICKSECKER, EUGENE. Government road in Mt. Rainier
park: (in 'Coast. | Voll 143) spp Sie5a) VAMeust. | 19077
illus.)
ROBERTS, MILNOR. A wonderland of glaciers and snow
(In National geographic magazine. Vol. 20, pp. 539-8.
June, 1909. 8 illus.)
RODMAN, WILLOUGHBY. The Sierra club in the northwest.
(In Out west. Vol. 24, pp. 365-95. May, 1906. 25 illus.)
ROSS, J. E. Mt. Rainier. (In Land of sunshine. Vol. 1, p
169.)
RUSSELL, ISRAEL COOK. Existing glaciers of the United
States. (In U. S. geological survey. 5th annual report.
1883-84. pp. 309-356. Mt. Rainier. pp. 335-339.)
Glaciers of Mt. Rainier. (In U. S. geological survey. 18th
annual report. 1897. Pt. 2, pp. 349-415. illus.)
Glaciers of North America. Bost. 1901. pp. 62-67.
Impressions of Mt. Rainier. (In Scribner’s Magazine. Vol.
22, pp. 169-71. Aug., 1897. 4 illus.)
SAD Spectacle, A. (In Coast. Vol. 1, p. 109. April, 1901.)
Name Rainier-Tacoma controversy.
SAMPSON, ALEN. Wild animals of the Mt. Rainier national
park. (In Sierra club bulletin. Vol. 6, pp. 32-38. Jan.,
1906.)
The Mountaineer 69
SAYLOR, F. H. Legend of Tahoma. (Mt. Rainier.) (In
Oregon native son. Vol. 1, pp. 315-316. Oct., 1899.)
The Noah of the Indian, his story of the deluge and his Mt.
Ararat; a tradition. (In Oregon native son. Vol. 1, pp.
361-363. 1900.)
SCIDMORE, E. R. Appleton’s guide book to Alaska. N. Y.
1899. pp. 7-3.)
SHEEP grazing in Rainier forest reserve. (In Oregon native
son. vol. i, p. 279. Sept., 1899.)
SIERRA Club. Outing committee. Report 1905 outing. (In
Sierra club bulletin. Vol. 6, pp. 50-51. Jan., 1906.)
SMITH, ERNEST C. A trip to Mt. Rainier. (In Appalachia.
Vol. 7, pp. 185-205. March, 1894. 4 illus.)
SMITH, GEORGE OTiS. The geology of Mt. Rainier. (In
Mazama. Vol. 2, pp. 18-24. Oct., 1900.
SNOWDEN, CLINTON A. History of Washington. 1909. 4v.
(See index under Mt. Rainier.)
SNYDER, CARL. Our new national wonderland. (In Review
of Reviews. Vol. 9, pp. 163-171. Feb., 1894. 12 illus.)
STEEL, WILL G. Mountains of Oregon. Portland, 1890. pp.
43-65, 101, 105.
STEVENS, Gen. HAZARD. The ascent of Tachoma. (In At-
lantic monthly. Vol. 38, pp. 513-530. Nov., 1876.) Notes
on above in Nation. Vol. 23, pp. 287-288. Nov. 9, 1876.
Changes in Mt. Tak-ho-ma. (In Mazama. Vol. 2, pp. 201-202.
Dec., 1905.)
TOLMIH, DR. WILLIAM T. First ascent of Mt. Rainier. See
Bagley, Clarence B.
U. S. War Department. Reports of explorations for a rail-
road from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean. 1853-4.
Vol. 1; p. 192.
VANCOUVER, Capt. GEORGE. Voyage of discovery to the
north Pacific ocean. 1790-5. Vol. 1, p. 235.
Discovery of Mt. Rainier. (In Seattle Argus. Historical
edition. Dec. 23, 1899. p.13. 1 illus.)
VAN TRUMP, P. B. Mt. Rainier. (In Mazama. Vol. 2, pp.
1-18. Oct., 1900.) Account of ascent made by Van Trump
and Stevens in Aug., 1870.
VISSCHER, W. Mt. Rainier. (In Magazine of western his-
tory. Vols 12° p: 76.)
WHEELER, OLIN D. Climbing Mt. Rainier. 1895. Re-
produced in book torm from Wonderland. 1895.
WILLEY, DAY ALLEN. The lure of the mountains. (In Put-
nam’s monthly. Vol. 2, pp. 447-456. July, 1907. 6 illus.)
The tall mountains of the world. (In Scientific American
supplement. Vol. 62, pp. 25, 610. Aug. 18, 1906. (Brief
description of ‘l'acoma.)
WILKES, CHARLES. Narrative of the U. S. exploring expe-
dition. Phil. 1845. Vol. 4, pp. 413, 415, 424.
WILLIS BAILEY. Canyons and glaciers, a journey to the ice
fields of Mt. Tacoma. (In The Northwest. Vol. 1, p. 2.
April, 1883.)
Mt. Rainier and its glaciers. (In Bulletin of the Washing-
ton philosophical society. Vol. 10, p. 10. March 26, 1887.)
70 The Mountaineer
WINTHROP, THEODORE. The canoe and the sadile. Bost.
1863. pp. 124-134.
WRIGHT, FREDERICK. Ice age in North America. N. Y.
1900. See index under Mt. Tacoma.
POEMS.
BASHFORD, HERBERT. Mt. Rainier. (In his Wolves of the
sea and other poems.) N. Y. 1901, p. 45.
Same (In Eshelman, A. D., pub. Picturesque Seattle. p. 40.)
Mt. Rainier. (In his Songs from Puget Sea. 8S. F. 1898.
p. 85.)
Same (In Stedman, E. C. ed. American anthology. 1900.
p. 736.)
CALVERT, MRS. E. H. Mt. Rainier song. (In her Boat-man
God and other poems. pp. 32-33.)
DORR, J. W. Mountain poem. (In his Babylon. 1897. pp.
77-8.)
REDFIELD, EDITH SANDERSON. Mt. Rainier, 14,444 feet.
Written during the ascent. (In her Verses. 1907. pp.
9-16.)
REESE, MARY BYNON. Sunrise on Mt. Rainier. (In Hshel-
man, A.D. pub. Picturesque Seattle. p. 39. 1 illus.)
RICE, CARRIE SHAW. Mt. Tacoma. (In Overland Monthly.
n.s. Vol. 30, p. 372. Oct., 1897. 3 illus. and 3 ports.)
RONSARD, OVID DE. An apostrophe to Mt. Rainier. (In
Eshelman, A. D. pub. Picturesque Seattle. pp. 42-43.)
SHELDON, CAROLINE. To Mt. Rainier. (In Washington
magazine. Vol. 2, p. 34. Sept., 1906.)
STAPP, ORVILE V. Mt. Rainier. (In Pacific monthly. Vol.
18, p. 285. May, 1905.) 1 illus.
STINE, T. O. Tribute to Mt. Rainier. (In his Echoes from
dreamland. pp. 34-35.)
THE MOUNTAINEER
Published November each year.
Published for Members. Annual dues $3.00.
ORGANIZATION.
Directors.
Pror. EpMonp 8S. Mrany, President, 4025 10th Ave. N. E.
FRANK S. SouTHARD, Vice President, 55 Haller Bldg.
CHARLES M. Farrer, Secretary, 522 Pioneer Bldg.
Dr. HE. F. STEvENS, Treasurer, 1505 H. Madison.
Miss LuLig NETTLETON, Historian, 1806 8th Ave. West.
ASAHEL Curtis, 627 Colman Bldg.
L. A. NELSON, 522 New York Blk.
JoHN A. Bsst, Jr., Bremerton, Wn.
Pror. J. B. Fitert, 107 N. Tacoma Ave., Tacoma, Wn.
Rey. F. J. VAN Horn, 923 James St.
Miss Arma J. BicELow, 1139 Highteenth Ave. N.
A. J. CRAVEN, 1120 Garden St., Bellingham.
SECRETARY’S OFFICE: 522 Pioneer Bldg. Phone Main 2956.
COMMITTEES.
1908-1909.
Outing Committee House Committee
Asahel Curtis Prof. Henry Landes
L. A. Nelson Mrs. Vesta E. Stevens
Charles M. Farrer Dr. E. W. Young
Publication Committee Program Committee
Miss Lulie Nettleton H. C. Belt
EB. A. Childs Geo. E. Wright
Miss Mary Banks Miss Hattie A. Strang
~]
bo
The Mountaineer
SECRETARY’S REPORT.
The Mountaineers have added many new names to
their membership list during the past year, and for the
most part they represent active and interested mem-
bers. They come, too, from widely separated states,
the middle west and the Atlantic coast.
The local walks on alternate Sundays, have proved
to be more popular than ever and many extra outings
have been organized in consequence, including some of
iwo or three days duration, and they have all been very
well attended. The average attendance on these walks
has nearly doubled since last year.
The general activities of the club included a cam-
paign for the creation of a national park in the Olympic
Mountains, and in assisting the Sierra Club in its ef-
forts to preserve the beauties of the Hetch Hetchey
Valley, in the Yosemite National Park. In the latter
case there is still much work to be done. The club is
also endeavoring to obtain a detail of troops to assist
the Rangers of the National Parks in this state, during
the summer months. The superintendent of the Yose-
mite Park states that this plan has worked very suc-
_ cessfully there and that it would be quite impossible
for him to give the park proper care in any other man-
ner, the force of rangers at his command being entirely
inadequate for the work. The same conditions prevail
here.
A model camp was exhibited by the Mountaineers at
the A.-Y.-P. Exposition during the summer. It was
cared for by enterprising members and was awarded a
grand prize.
The demand for our publications has increased and
subscribers to the magazine include many well known
educational and scientific bodies, besides mountaineer-
ing clubs. Cuaries M. Farrer,
Secretary.
The Mountaineer
ANNUAL REPORT OF TREASURER.
1908-1909.
Receipts:
November 1, cash on hand... $ 41.71
John A. Best, to balance... 8.98
Beceived for) dues.0 4.2 ee Ae, 612.00
22.(0 29 ol ST eae Mom DUEL AC ea eng 72.00
LE 0 Site ACE Reeth Ret ACNE ERIE SGA HRD 5.25
121 1K | Coe A RICA SeeUe SY td Suet ty RNIN 7.45
1 52 G13 2 ge Se cad On ro bio ASA Wee a 21.05
SSID ce nth ere ci te ad 05
Refunded on mailing prospectus................. 9.20
Loaned by Dr. E. F. Stevenzs........................ 110.00
Loaned by Dr. E. F’. Stevens... 89.56
Expenditures :
Final payment on magazine... $273.25
Chamber of Commerce ex. of photo... 38.80
Gane Humes Jecttire. 000 11.50
Biapense Of Secretary: 2 002 eS 58
Preliminary trip to Rainiev........................ 89.50
EE US POSTON 0. 22s ean 18.00
Balance on Mountaineer No. 2.................... 27.25
Repayment of Stevens loan........................ 199.50
$977.19
$866.48
$110.81
E. F. Srevens, M. D.
74 The Mountaineer
Report of expenditures and receipts on account of
Olympic outing:
Ga peopleae aru enen. 8 oa $2,520.00
Piromynaie ot a4 norees.. 80s es i a ae 418.00
Valae Mt horses:on hand. ee ees 200.00
Sale of saddle equipment. tee ceeeceenceeeeeeeee 53.25
SopS 4, 20" Opp Bj 1] k= RD OO NOR RAY Baik need SCIEN, Shel IAB Mes 8B 40.00
Local walk fund, spent for commissary outfit... 76.51
AROUGLW STR RGR Lh Yee 9 2 $3,307.76
Expenditures:
FRGERGS ate kr he ee es eae ee ee $1,006.00
PRO OUS 2k ek Pets nS eal ele a ye 756.25
Packtrain, eneral, 2. 2b eh ee 133.35
Paekirain, /egnipment 2. oo A ee 123.75
Pagieivain, eroceries) 20: iin ee es 97.70
Tweijpreliminary, drips le ee ee 133.75
OE Wh OOS sae ee 146.00
E1105. hafta St PannR She Re Pena mA SADe ee Perireen at Up eorss fires?) £0, 84.00
AP PaMmepOr tation |) 12000 2 Siok eee 343,05
emanate ee ee 109.52
Gio) 765 51 5, aN rise ORE AY SPARE GAG UWL HES, Seat eae 637.59
ime uileen bales a RE a ae 41.36
Total. disbarsementauies oe 2s $3,612.32
Weftent sce. 2 7a ae ete ee 304.56
The Mountaineer (5
Financial report of Mt. Baker outing:
Brees Manis Vd LMI Mea to kc ft $1,695.50
MapeeaiLs Wrea llega) os tS. ie EA ee ne ey LB Te 37.60
$1,733.10
1D 72" idk Ppgee a SPORE ER TEREE RE LES UA TAL 2) sn ey eames) 50.00
PROM Sis cilia aie elena ay Leas $1,783.10
Expenditures
(2c 01 a0 fate aes elena OME SSE Bey Ue Rede $ 587.56
AEGAN 4 eh Pe ees ho ot ao ee ue eye ee EAT, 241.35
Ors Ee i {ier eon |) VevsE eee RRP erent ry 155.00
Preliminary. CEU: oe es eh 60.48
OnCral CXPENRG 2.2. ae 101,31
MPMHSPOTLAULON 02522 edits ee en eS 184.00
TL Rae e ERA STUN SI a Lid CA oe 113.80
OPRPVIEONIS 2 tcc a eee 339.60
=]
or)
The Mountaineer
Report of expenditures and receipts on account of
Mt. Rainier outing:
Received from members of party......$2,940.00
Meals ann seam. ke a ay 49.20
Supplies sold to government................. 24.65
PIVEN (ES UILE: 1) we ete cea lena 53.00
otal PECELPTS eee kl ean ele $3,076.85
Getieral expense) 22 oa see $ 170.65
PEOVISIONS Hoek Le Ee oe ears 784.24
COMMISKARY ici Keene sto eae 152.41
MPR i ea elN ston par ed, Wachee Oy SUG CE 76.85
CO ORS ie oye eer oe Sal Ne ae 154.50
TETAS POL CACO (eke ee ee 432.50
Preliminary, trip io ioe eee 78.75
PAG eTbES Ig ae ec ae aed oe ae 63.00
OA DOC ETE: foal ve ag eee bias 126.00
1 21) "th 01 anaes RECON Ra enon ati theses AEN 725.30
Re TTR OTN he a eae 18.75
Total VaaSDiUESeMeEN ER ee ee 2,746.95
DB yea) a eRe RM Ne OTe VDE ssae an ce Se CE Mae aaa $ 324.90
ASAHEL CURTIS,
Chairman Outing Committee.
The Mountaineer (0/4
REPORT OF PROGRAM COMMITTEE.
During the entire year the committee was continu-
ously favored with valuable suggestions from members
for available programs, and every request of the com-
mittee, whether upon members or otherwise, was cheer-
fully and acceptably complied with. We desire to
thank the membership of the club, both for assistance
in the recommending of persons to take part, and for
the attendance and evidence of appreciation of the
programs submitted.
In January, Mr. Samuel C. Lancaster entertained
the club with views and descriptions of scenes visited
by him upon his recent tour of Europe. The club met
in the new assembly hall of the Chamber of Commerce
in the Central Building for the first time at the Febru-
ary meeting. After the electricians of the club had
succeeded in solving a difficult problem in obtaining
electric power for the stereopticon, we heard an inter-
esting and amusing talk on Japan and its people by
Miss Adelaide Pollock, illustrated by views collected
by her while there.
At the March meeting our president, Prof. E. 8.
Meany, recounted various “Stories of Chief Joseph and
other Indians,’ in his usually happy style, and ex-
hibited numerous curios from his collection. Mr. Grant
Humes showed an entirely new set of pictures of wild
animal life in the Olympics, at the April meeting. The
May meeting was given over to the Outing Committee
and we were given a forecast of the summer’s outing,
through pictures taken by the committee on the prelim-
inary trips.
The list of programs is completed by an interesting
and instructive talk by Hon. A. E. Griffin upon the
early history of the Pacific northwest.
The Mountaineer
+
OO
The meetings were all well attended and the spirit
of hearty comradeship, which has always been strik-
ingly evident at all gatherings of the club, has not in
the least diminished.
Respectfully submitted,
H. C. Brut.
MEMBERS OF THE MT. BAKER OUTING.
Bailey, F. L.
Bailey, L. L.
Bailey, Winona.
Baptie, H. May.
Belt, H. C.
Belt, Mrs.
Best, John A., Jr.
Blake, Fred J.
Cameron, Crissie.
Carr, Lawrence.
Carr, Robert.
Craven, A. J.
Craven, H. W.
Curtis, Asahel.
Curtis, Mrs.
Easton, Chas. F.
Easton, Martin.
Eaton, Dr. Cora Smith.
Epler, Frank.
Farrer, Annie.
Farrer, C. M.
Freund, Elizabeth.
Fryer, Alice.
Hanson, Olof.
Hall, Cok:
Hall, 1D. \B.
Hahn, Rosa Dean.
Hannaman, Geo. L.
Hess, —.
Howard, Anna.
Howard, Grace.
Humes, Grant.
Johnson, Anna.
Johnson, Nellie 8.
Krows, Melvin A.
Leckenby, Mollie.
MacLean, W. A.
McGregor, P. M.
McLean, Murray.
Mills, Blake D.
Mills, Mrs.
Morrill, J. O.
Nelson, L. A.
Nettleton, Lulie.
Sensenig, Wayne.
Southard, Frank 8.
Sprague, —.
Stauber, Anna H.
Stevens, E. F.
Stevens, Mrs.
Strang, Hattie.
Tingle, Mary C.
Thompson, H. L.
Thompson, Mrs.
MVHd WHLOV ID
3 O11 ‘TI (JOA ‘doownpUnoTy at
66
The Mountaineer 79
FOURTH SUMMER OUTING OF THE MOUNTAIN-
EERS.
The fourth annual outing of the Mountaineers plan-
ned for Lake Chelan and Glacier Peak, is one of the
greatest trips that the state of Washington affords.
Lake Chelan is one of the show points of the state
and needs little description. It is 1,079 feet above the
sea, yet the bottom is over a thousand feet below the
sea. It is 48 miles in length, its southeastern end be-
ing in the rolling sage brush country of eastern Wash-
ington, and its northwestern in the rugged evergreen-
clad mountains of the Cascade range.
Glacier Peak is a great glaciated volcanic cone 10,-
436 feet high, situated 33 miles west of the lake. It is
the source of many large glaciers, being the third larg-
est glacial system in the state. No large party has ever
climbed the peak and the club will have the chance to
make the first ascent as a club.
The peak can be seen from Seattle and along the
coast. It is particularly noticeable during the summer
when the snow is off the main Cascade Range, as then
the white summit is plainly defined.
The party will go via. the G. N. to Wenatchee, trans-
fer to a steamer on the Columbia, go to Chelan Falls,
thence by stage to Lakeside, and by boat up the lake to
Lucerne at the mouth of Railroad Creek. From this
point the entire trip will be on foot, a distance of 35
miles to camp on the head waters of Suattle Creek.
From this camp the summit can be made in a single
day.
ASAHEL CURTIS,
Chairman Outing Committee.
80 The Mountaineer
CONSTITUTION AND BY-LAWS
OF
THE MOUNTAINEERS’ CLUB
OF WASHINGTON
ARTICLE I.
NAME,
The name of this organization shall be The Mountaineers’
Club.
ARTICLE II.
OBJECTS.
The object of this organization shall be to explore the
mountains, forests and water courses of the Pacific Northwest,
and to gather into permanent form the history and traditions
of this region; to preserve, by protective legislation or other-
wise, the natural beauty of the Northwest coast of America; to
make frequent or periodical expeditions into these regions in
fulfillment of the above purposes. Finally, and above all, to
encourage and promote the spirit of good fellowship and com-
radery among the lovers of out-door life in the West.
ARTICLE III.
MEMBERSHIP.
Section 1. Anyone above the age of seventeen years who is
in sympathy with the purposes of the club is eligible for mem-
bership.
Sec. 2. There shall be two classes of members,—active and
honorary.
See. 3. Active members shall be elected by a unanimous
vote of the board of directors after being recommended by
two members.
Sec. 4. Honorary members may be selected by unanimous
vote of the Board of Directors; the limit as to number be-
ing 25.
ARTICLE IV.
BOARD OF DIRECTORS.
Section 1. The affairs of the club shall be managed by a
Board of 12 Directors, who shall be elected at the annual
meeting. Five Directors shall constitute a quorum.
2. A nominating committee elected by the club at the
meeting, next preceding the annual meeting, shall place in
nomination eighteen members in good standing from whom the
club shall by ballot elect the 12 Directors.
The Mountaineer 81
ARTICLE V.
OFFICERS.
The Board of Directors immediately after being duly
elected shall meet and elect from their number the following
officers:
President,
Vice-President,
Secretary,
Treasurer,
Historian.
ARTICLE VI.
DUTIES OF OFFICERS.
Section 1. The President shall preside at all meetings of
the Board of Directors and of the club. He shall not be de-
prived of his vote by reason of his office. He shall appoint,
subject to confirmation by the Board of Directors, the follow-
ing standing committees, consisting of three members each:
1. Outing Committee.
2. House Committee.
38. Program Committee.
4. Publication Committee.
and sucn other special committees as may be needed.
Sec. 2. The Secretary shall act as such for the Board of
Wirectors and the Club, and shall record the minutes of their
meetings, be ex-officio member of the Outing Committee, re-
ceive all monies and care for all records and papers belonging
to the Club; he shall keep account of and properly turn over
to the Treasurer all funds of the Club which may come into
his hands, he shall make and keep a correct list of the mem-
bers of this club in good standing, noting of each his correct
hame, address and date of membership, and it shall be his
duty to send annually a copy of such lists to the Historian of
this club. He shall keep a record of all official outings and in
so far as possible the mountaineering achievements of the
members of the club.
Sec. 38. The Treasurer shall receive all dues and monies
belonging to the club from the hands of the Secretary, giving
his receipt for same, and shall keep a correct account of all
monies received by him, and shall only pay out the same upon
the written order of the Secretary, countersigned by the Presi-
dent of the Club.
Sec. 4. The Historian shall collect and preserve all infor-
mation concerning the Club, its membership, their achiev-
ments, the localities visited, and be ex-officio member of the
Publication Committee.
ARTICLE VII.
DUTIES OF COMMITTEES.
Section 1. The Outing Committee shall have entire charge
of all outings, including receipt and disbursements of the out-
ing funds.
82 The Mountaineer
Sec. 2. The House Committee shall have charge of the
Club Headquarters, and of such receptions, entertainments or
other functions as may be held by the Club.
Sec. 8. The Program Committee shall outline the program
for each meeting, giving notice to the members through the
Secretary by mail.
Sec. 4. The Publication Committee shall include the His-
torian. It shall have full charge of all publications authorized
by the Club, and act as the official mouth-piece to the public
press. The chairman of the committee shall be the club
Editor.
ARTICLE VIII.
MEETINGS.
Section 1. The annual meeting shall be on the third Fri-
day, in November, of each year.
Sec. 2. Regular meetings shall be held on the third Friday
of the month, October to May, inclusive.
Sec. 3. _ Fifteen members shall constitute a quorum.
Sec. 4. Special meetings may be called by the President or
a quorum of the Board of Directors.
ARTICLE IX.
DUES.
The annual dues for members shall be $3.00, payable in
advance.
ARTICLE X.
AMENDMENTS.
This constitution may be amended at any regular meeting
by a four-fifths vote of the members present, written notice
naving been given at the previous meeting.
ARTICLE XI.
RULES OF ORDER.
Roberts’ Rules of Order shall be authority in all parlia-
mentary matters before the club.
EVERYTHING fowi'sinct
HOME COMPLETE
Stoves, Carpets and General Household Goods. A Liberal
Discount made to Mr. & Mrs. Newlywed and all Mountaineers.
VALDEZ FURNITURE COMPANY
eee INCORPORATED wees
J. F. BLAKE, PRES. AND MGR. (MEMBER OF THE MOUNTAINEERS)
PRICES LOWER THAN THE LOWEST
Sunset Main 2332—PHONES~—Independent 5030
1510 FIRST AVE., (near Pike) SEATTLE, WASH.
MOUNTAINEER PIN
PRICE 75 CENTS
AT THE OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY
Jos. Mayer & Bros.
MANUFACTURING JEWELERS
AND SILVERSMITHS
Colman Building,
Seattle, Wash.
C. C. a ILSON Waterprool Khaki
English Gabardine
34 KLE SRE ht cer Mortar
Women’s reer Clothing, Sleeping Bags, Wool Batts, etc.
We can refer with pleasure to our Mountaineer patrons.
All kinds of Bedding and Clothing used for Outdoor Life.
1011 First Ave, - - Seattle, Wash.
B OOKS Our Book Store, the
largest in the Northwest,
carries at all times a select list of books of
Travel pertaining to the Great Northwest.
Books on Botany, Mountaineering, Nature
Study and kindred subjects. aH:
PLEASED TO SHOW YOU AT ANY TIME
SUPPLIES FOR THOSE WHO ARE DEVOTED TO MOUNTAINEERING
KOD AKS and Dependable Sup-
plies. Photo Finishing
and Ramana: Field Glasses, roe toga
Maps.
Tames &Hanford ©
616—620 FIRST AVENUE
SEATTLE
The Mountaineer
may be obtained
by applying to the
Secretary (s.4 6.
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