Narrative of a journey across the Rocky Mountains, to the Columbia River, and a visit to the Sandwich Islands, Chili, &c.; with a scientific appendix

y

V /
I

hJ

tVH-

/

1

/

NARRATIVE

OF A

JOURNEY ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,

TO

THE COLUMBIA RIVER,

AND

A VISIT TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, CHILI, &c.

WITH

A SCIENTIFIC APPENDIX.

L

BY JOHN K. TOWNSEND,

Member of the Academy of NatuJ-al Sciences of Philadelphia.

PHILADELPHIA:
HENRY PERKINS, 134 CHESTNUT STREET.

BOSTON : PERKINS & MARVIN.
1839.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1839, by

John K. Townsend,

in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court of the Eastern District of

Pennsylvania.

MERRIHEW AND THOMPSON, PRINTERS,

No. 7 Carter's Alley.

ADVERTISEMENT,

The Columbia River Fishing and Trading Company was formed in
1834, by several individuals in New York and Boston. Capt. Wyeth,
having an interest in the enterprise, collected a party of men to cross
the continent to the Pacific, with the purpose chiefly of establishing
trading posts beyond the Rocky Mountains and on the coast.

The idea of making one of Capt. Wyeth's party was suggested to
the author by the eminent botanist, Mr. Nuttall, who had himself
determined to join the expedition across the North American wilder-
ness. Being fond of Natural History, particularly the science of
Ornithology, the temptation to visit a country hitherto unexplored by
naturalists was irresistible ; and the following pages, originally penned
for the family-circle, and without the slightest thought of publication,
will furnish some account of his travels.

PUBLIC LIBHAKY

ERRATA.

Page 9, sixth line of the Contents, for "sharon," read charon.
Page 79, ninth line from the bottom, for " for which we have exchanged,"
read which we have exchanged fur.

Page 84, for " melhiglen," read methegUn.

Page 120, third line of the chapter, for " winnowing," read winnying.
Page 248, third line from the bottom, for " hallowed," read hallooed.
Page 286, third line from the bottom, in note, for " dulcits," read dulcis.

CONTENTS

Chapter I. Arrival at St. Louis — Preparations for the journey — Saque In-
dians— Their appearance, dress, and manners — Squaws — Commencement
of a pedestrian tour — Sandhill cranes — Prairie settlers — Their hospitality —
Wild pigeons, golden plovers and prairie hens — Mr. P. and his daughters —
An abundant repast — Simplicity of the prairie maidens — A deer and turkey
hunt — Loutre Lick hotel — A colored charon — Comfortable quarters — Young
men of the west — Reflections on leaving home — Loquacity of the inhabi-
tants— Gray squirrels — Boonville — Parroquets — Embarkation in a steam-
boat— Large catfish — Accident on board the boat — Arrival at Independence —
Description of the town — Encampment of the Rocky Mountain company —
Character of the men — Preparation for departure — Requisites of a leader —
Backwoods familiarity — Milton Sublette and his band — Rev. Jason Lee, the
missionary — A letter from home — Mormonites — Military discipline and its
consequences, 9

Chapter. II. Departure of the caravan — A storm on the prairie — Arrange-
ment of the camp — Kanzas Indians — Kanzas river — Indian lodges — Passage
of the river — Buffalo canoes — Kanzas chief — Upper Kaw village — their wig-
wams— Catfish and ravens — Return of Mr. Sublette — Pawnee trace — Deser-
tion of three men — Difficulties occasioned by losing the trail — Intelligence of
Mr. Sublette's party — Escape of the band of horses — Visit of three Otto In-
dians— Anectlote of Richardson, the chief hunter — his appearance and cha-
racter— White wolves and antelopes — Buffalo bones — Sublette's deserted
camps — Lurking wolves, ■ .27

Chapter III. Arrival at the Platte river — Wolves and antelopes — Anxiety of
the men to sec bufl'alo — Visit of two spies from the Grand Pawnees — -Forced
march — A herd of buffalo — Elk — Singular conduct of the horses — Killing a
buffalo — Indian mode of procuring buffalo — Great herd — Adventure with an
Indian in the tent — Indian feat with bow and arrow — Notice of the Paw-
nee tribes — Disappearance of the buffalo from the plains of the Platte — A
hunting adventure — Killing a buffalo — Butchering of a bull — Shameful de-
struction of the game — Hunters' mode of quenching thirst, . . . .42

Chapter IV. Change in the face of the country — Unpleasant visitation — N.
fork of the Platte — A day's journey over the hills — Poor pasture — Marmots —
Rattlesnake and gopher — Naturalist's success and sacrifices — A sand storm —
Wild horses — Killing of a doe antelope — Bluffs — The Chimney — " Zip
Koon," the young antelope — Birds — Feelings and cogitations of a naturalist —
Laramie's fork — Departure of two " free trappers" on a summer " hunt" —
Black hills — Red butes — Sweet-water river, and Rock Independence — Avo-
cets — Wind river mountains — Rocky Mountain sheep — Adventure with a
grizzly bear — Rattlesnakes — Toilsome march, and arrival at Sandy river —
Suffering of the horses — Anticipated delights of the rendezvous, . . 57

Chapter V. Arrival at the Colorado — The author in difficulty — Loss of a
journal, and advice to travelling tyros — The rendezvous — Motley groups in-
festing it — Rum drinking, swearing, and other accomplishments in vogue —
Description of the camp — Trout — Abundance of game — Cock of the plains —

VI CONTENTS.

Leave the rendezvous — An accession to the band — A renegado Blackfoot
chief— Captain Stewart and Mr. Ashvvorth — Muddy creek — More carous-
ing— Abundance of trout — Bear river — A hard day's march — Volcanic coun-
try— White-clay pits and " Beer spring" — Rare birds and common birds —
Mr. Thomas McKay — Captain Bonneville's party — Captains Stewart and
Wyetii's visit to the lodge of the "bald chief" — Blackfoot river — Adventure
with a grizzly bear — Death of " Zip Koon" — Young grizzly bears and buf-
falo calves — A Blackfoot Indian — Dangerous experiment of McKay — the
three " Tetons" — Large trout — Shoshone river — Site of " Fort Hall" — Pre-
parations for a buflalo hunt, 72

Chapteh VL Departure of the hunting camp — A false alarm— Blackfeet In-
dians— Requisites of a mountain-man — Good fare, and good appetites — An
experiment — Grizzly bears — Ncz Perce Indian — Adventure with a grizzly
bear — Hunters' anecdotes — Homeward l)ound — Arrival at " Fort Hall" — A
salute — Emaciation from lowdiet — Mr. McKay's company — Buffalo lodges--
Effects of judicious training — Indian worship — A " Camp Meeting" — Mr.
Jason Lee, a favorite — A fatal accident and a burial, 92

CiiAPTEU VII. Departure of McKay's party, Captain Stewart, and the mis-
sionaries— Debauch at the fort — Departure of the company — Poor provision —
Blackfeet hunting ground — Sufferings from thirst — Goddin's creek — An-
toine (toddin, the trapper — Scarcity of game — A buffalo — Rugged moun-
tains— More game — Unusual economy —Habits of the white wolf — " Thorn-
burg's pass" — Difficult traveiUng — The captain in jeopardy among the
snow — A countermarch — Deserted Banneck camp — Toilsome and dangerous
passage of the mountain — Mallade river — Beaver dams, and beaver — A
party of Snake Indians — Another Banneck camp — " Kamas prairie" — Indian
mode of preparing the kamas — Racine blanc, or biscuit root — Loss of horses
by fatigue — Boisee or Big-wood river — Salmon — Choke-cherries, &c. 110

Chapter VIIL A substitute for game, and a luxurious breakfast — Expecta-
tions of a repast, and a disappointment — Visit of a Snake chief — his abhor-
rence of horse meat — A band of Snake Indians — their chief — Trade with
Indians for salmon — Mr. Ashworth's adventure — An Indian horse-thief —
Visit to the Snake camp — A Banneck camp — Supercilious conduct of the
Indians — Snake river — Equipment of a trapping party — Indian mode of
catching salmon — Loss of a favorite horse — Powder river — Cut rocks —
Grand Ronde — Captain Bonneville — Kayouse and Nez Perce Indians — An
Indian beauty — Blue mountains— A feline visit, 129

Chapter IX. Passage of the Blue mountains — Sufferings from thirst —
Utalla river — .\ transformation — A novel meal — Columbia river and Fort
Walla-walla — A dinner with the missionaries — Anecdote of Mr. Lee —
Brief notice of the Fort — Departure of the missionaries — Notice of the Wal-
la-walla Indians — Departure for Fort \'^ancouver — Wild ducks — Indian
graves — Visits from Indians — Ophthalmia, a prevalent disease — A company
of Chinook Indian.s — The Dalles — The party joined by Captain Wyeth —
Embarkation in canoes — A heavy gale — Dangerous navigation — Pusillani-
mous conduct of an Indian helmsman — A zealous botanist — Departure of
Captain Wyeth with five men — Cascades — A portage — Meeting with the
missionaries — Loss of a canoe — A toilsome duty — Arrival at Fort Vancou-
ver— Dr. John McLoughhn, the chief factor — Domiciliation of the travel-
lers at Fort Vancouver, 1 50

Chapter X. Fort Vancouver— .Agricultural and other improvements— Van-
couver "camp"— Expedition to the Wallammot— The falls— A village of

CONTENTS. VU

Kiikatat Indians — Manner of flattening the head — A Flathead infant — -
Brig " May Dacre" — Preparations for a settlement — Success of the natural-
ists— Chinook Indians — their appearance and costume — Ague and fever —
Desertion of the Sandwich Islanders — Embarkation for a trip to the Islands —
George, the Indian pilot — Mount Coffin — A visit to the tombs— Superstition —
Visit to an Indian house — Fort George— Site of Astoria — A blind Indian
boy — Cruel and unfeeling conduct of the savages — their moral character —
Baker's Bay— Cape Disappointment — Dangerous bar at the entrance of the
river — The sea beach — Visit of Mr. Ogden — Passage across the bar — Sea
birds — Landsmen at sea — A sperm, whale — Albatrosses, &c. — Tropic birds —
A " school" of whales — Dolphins — Make the Sandwich Islands — Oahu —A
rhapsody, 170

Chapter XI. Honoruru — Canoes — Amphibious habits —Capt. Charlton, H.B.
M. consul — Mr. Jones, the American consul — reception by him — Description
of the town, and of the natives — Party-colored hair of the women — The pa-
goda— A visit from Kev. Hiram Bingham, the missionary — Opinions regard-
ing the missionary fraternity — First view of the king, Kauikeaouli — his
train — Seamen's chapel — A visit to the native church — Kinau and Keku-
anoa — Orderly conduct of the natives during worship — Introduction to the
king — His fondness for the chase, and athletic exercises — Native food — Man-
ner of eating — The runii-rumi — its efficacy — A Lu-au party — The valley of
Nuano — A visit to the Pari — The last battle of Tamehameha — A feast —
Manner of cooking — A party of native ladies — An adventure, . . 191

Chapter XII. Visit to the island of Kauai — A royal call — Rev. P. J.
Gulick, — Description of the island — A present from Kauikeaouli — Royal
mode of obtaining supplies — Birds — Native method of catching them — The
travellers wind-bound — Shell hunting — Habits of the natives— Beach food,
and mode of eating it — Visit of the king, and governor Kekeoeva — Charac-
teristics of the latter — Anxiety of the king to return home — Arrival of his
followers — A metamorphosis — A royal supper — Evening service— Royal
guard — A sail in sight — Joy of the king— His letter — Return of the Avon —
Departure from Kauai, and arrival at Oahu — A pic-nic party at Pearl river —
Calabash dance by the natives — Departure for Columbia river — A primitive
passage to the shore — A storm at sea— A flight of shore birds — Land ahead —
Arrival at the Columbia, . . 205

Chapter XIII. Passage up the Columbia— Birds — A trip to the Wallammet —

Methodist missionaries — their prospects — Fort William— Band-tail pigeons

Wretched condition of the Indians at the falls — A Kallapooyah village In-
dian cemetery — Superstitions — Treatment of diseases — Method of steaming —

" Making medicine" — Indian sorcerers — Death of Thornburg — An inquest

Verdict of the jury — Inordinate appetite for ardent spirits — Eight men
drowned— Murder of two trappers by the Bannsck Indians— Arrival of Cap-
tain Thing — His meeting and skirmish with the Blackfeet Indians — Mas-
sacre— A narrow escape, 218

Chapter XIV. Indians of the Columbia — Departure of Mr. Nuttall and Dr.
Gairdner — Arrival of the Rev. Samuel Parker — his object — Departure of .he
American brig — Swans — Indian mode of taking them — A large wolf — A
night adventure — A discovery, and restoration of stolen property — Fraternal
tenderness of an Indian — Indian vengeance — Death of Waskema, the Indian
girl— "Busy-body ," the little chief— A village of Kowalitsk Indians— Cere-
mony of" making medicine"— Exposure of an impostor — Success of legiti-
mate medicines — Departure from Fort Vancouver for a visit to the interior —
Arrival of a stranger — "Cape Horn" — Tilki, the Indian dhief—Indian vil-

viii CONTENTS.

lages— Arrival at Fort Walla-walla— Sharp-tailed grouse— Commencement

of a journey to the Blue mountains, 231

Chaptek XV. A village ofKayouse Indians— Appearance and dresses of the
women— family worship— Visit to the Blue mountains— Dusky grouse— Re-
turn to Walla-walla— Arrival of Mr. McLeod, and the missionaries— Letters
from home— Death of Antoine Goddin— A renegado white man— Assault by
the Walla-walla Indians — Passage down the Columbia— Rapids — A dog for
supper— Prairies on fire— Fishing Indians— Their romantic appearance —
Salmon huts—The shoots — Dangerous navigation— Death of Tilki— Seals-
Indian stoicism and contempt of pain— Skookoom, the strong chief— his
death— Maiming, an evidence of grief— Arrival at Fort Vancouver — A visit
to Fort George— Indian cemeteries — Lewis and Clarke's house — A medal —
Visit to Chinook — Hospitality of the Indians— Chinamus' home — The idol —
Canine inmates, • 245

Chapteii XVI. Northern excursion — Salmon — Indian mode of catching
them — Flathead children — A storm on the bay — Pintail ducks — Simple
mode of killing salmon — Return to Chinook — Indian garrulity — Return to
Fort George — Preparations for a second trip to the Sandwich Islands — De-
tention within the cape — The tropics, and tropic birds — Make the island of
Maui — Arrival at Oahu — Accession to the society — A visit to the king —
Illness of the princess, Harieta Nahienaena — Abrupt exit of the king — A ride
to Waititi — Cocoanut grove — Native mode of climbing — Death of the
princess — grief of her people — barbarous ceremonies — Residence in the valley
of Nuano — A visit to the palace — Kahiles — Coffin of the princess, and inscrip-
tion— Ap[)urtenances — Ceremony of carrying the body to the church — Des-
cription of the pageant — Dress of the king — Conclusion of the ceremony, 259

Chapter XVII. Embarkation for a tour of the islands — Lahaina — Forts — La-
hainaluna — Missionaries of Maui — High school — Karakakua bay — Kairua —
Cook's rock — Reverence of the natives for his memory — Cook's monument —
Kawaihae — Colossal mountains — Mrs. Young — Heiau, or native temple —
Human sacrifices— Morai — Heathenish rites — A cargo of cattle — Unsavory
practice of the native women — Departure from Oahu — A sail by moonlight —
Dean's island — A " complaisant" — Arrival at Tahiti — Native pilot — Papeete
hay — Appearance of the shore — Orange groves, &c. — A young native song-
ster— Visit to the queen — Native service — The chapel — A bedridden Tahai-
tian — Jungle fowls — Leave the harbor — Dangerous navigation — A narrow
escape — A shipwreck, 275

Chapteii XVIII. Island of Eimeo — Juan Fernandez— Make the coast of
Chili — Town of Valparaiso — suburbs — Indisposition — Kindness of the fo-
reign residents, &c.— Preparation by the government for an expedition
against Peru— Foreign adventurers— Disaffection of Vidaurre and other
officers in the Chilian army— Murder of Signor Portales by the rebels — Pre-
paration for invading the town of Valparaiso— A battle— defeat of the insur-
gents—Capture and imprisonment of Vidaurre and seven officers— Florine,
the murderer— Sentence of the court martial— A military execution— Ap-
pearance of the bodies after death— Sail for the United States— Cape Horn—
Pernambuco— Cape Henlopen— A gale— Arrival at Philadelphia, . 295

Appendix, • ojj

NARRATIVE

OF A

JOURNEY ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, &c.

CHAPTER I,

Airival at St. Louis— Preparations for the journey — Saqiie Indians Their

appearance, dress, and manners— Squaws — Commencement of a pedestrian
tour — Sandhill cranes — Prairie settlers — Their hospitality — Wild pigeons,
golden plovers and prairie hens — Mr. P. and his daughters — An abundant

repast — Simplicity of the prairie maidens — A deer and turkey hunt Loutre

Lick hotel — Untoelcome bed-fellows — Jl colored sharon — Comfortable quar-
ters— Young men of the west — Reflections on leaving hmne — Loquacity of
the inhabitants — Gray squirrels — Boonville — Parroquets — Embarkation in
a steamboat — Large catfish — Accident on board the boat — Arrival at Indepen-
dence— Description of the town — Procure a supply of horses — Encampment
of the Rocky JMonntain company — Character of the men — Preparation for
departure — Requisites of a leader — Backwoods familiarity — JMilton Sublette
andhis band — Rev. .Tason Lee, the missionary — A letter from home — JMormon-
ites — JMilitary discipline and its consequences.

On the evening of the 24th of March, 1834, Mr. NuxxALLand
myself arrived at St. Louis, in the steamboat Boston, from Pitts-
burg.

On landing, we had the satisfaction to learn that Captain
Wyeth was already there, and on the afternoon of the next day
we called upon him, and consulted him in reference to the outfit
which it would be necessary to purchase for the journey. He
accompanied us to a store in the town, and selected a number
of articles for us, among which were several pairs of leathern

10 JSARKATIVE OF A JOUKNEY

pantaloons, enormous overcoats, made of green blankets, and
white wool hats, with round crowns, fitting tightly to the head,
brims five inches wide, and almost hard enough to resist a rifle
ball.

The day following we saw about one hundred Indians of the
Saquc tribe, who had left their native forests for the purpose of
treat in"- for the sale of some land at the Jefferson barracks.
They were dressed and decorated in the true primitive style;
their heads shaved closely, and painted with alternate stripes of
fiery red and deep black, leaving only the long scalping tuft,
in which was interwoven a quantity of elk hair and eagle's fea-
thers. Each man was furnished with a good blanket, and some
had an under dress of calico, but the greater number were en-
tirely naked to the waist. The faces and bodies of the men
were, almost without an exception, fantastically painted, the pre-
dominant color being deep red, with occasionally a few stripes
of dull clay white around the eyes and mouth. I observed one
whose body was smeared with light colored clay, interspersed
with black streaks. They were unarmed, with the exception of
tomahawks and knives. The chief of the band, (who is said
to be Black Hawk's father-in-law,) was a large dignified looking
man, of perhaps fifty-five years of age, distinguished from the
rest, by his richer habiliments, a more profuse display of trinkets
in his cars, (which were cut and gashed in a frightful manner
to receive them,) and above all, by a huge necklace made of the
claws of the grizzly bear. The squaws, of whom there were
about twenty, were dressed very much like the men, and at a little
distance could scarcely be distinguished from them. Among them
was an old, superannuated crone, who, soon after her arrival,
had been presented with a broken umbrella. The only use that
she made of it was to wrench the plated ends from the whale-
bones, string them on a piece of wire, take her knife from her
belt, with which she deliberately cut a slit of an inch in leno-th

I

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 11

along the uppei' rim of her ear, and insert them in it. I saw her
soon after this operation had been performed ; her cheeks were
covered with blood, and she was standing with a vast deal of
assumed dignity among her tawny sisters, who evidently envied
her the possession of the worthless baubles.

2Sth. — Mr. N. and myself propose starting to-morrow on foot
towards the upper settlements, a distance of about three hundred
miles. We intend to pursue our journey leisurely, as we have
plenty of time before us, and if we become tired, we can enter
the stage which will probably overtake us.

29i/i. — This morning our Indians returned from the barracks,
where I understand they transacted their business satisfactorily.
I went on board the boat again to see them. I feel very much
interested in them, as they are the first Indians I have ever seen
who appear to be in a state of uncultivated nature, and who retain
the savage garb and manners of their people. They had en-
gaged the entire covered deck for their especial use, and were
lolling about in groups, wrapped in their blankets. Some were
occupied in conversation, others seemed more contemplative, and
appeared to be thinking deeply, probably of the business which
brought them amongst us. Here and there two might be seen
playing a Spanish game with cards, and some were busily em-
ployed in rendering themselves more hideous with paint. To
perform this operation, the dry paint is folded in a thin muslin
or gauze cloth, tied tightly and beaten against the face, and a
small looking-glass is held in the other hand to direct them where
to apply it. Two middle-aged squaws were frying beef, which
they distributed around to the company in wooden bowls, and
several half loaves of bread were circulating rapidly amongst
them, by being tossed from one to another, each taking a huge
bite of it. There were among the company, several younger fe-
males, but they were all so hard favored that I could not feel
much sympathy with them, and was therefore not anxious to cul-

12 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

tivate tlicir acquaintance. There was another circumstance, too,
that was not a very attractive one ; I allude to the custom so
universal amongst Indians, of seeking for vermin in each others'
heads, and then eating them. The fair damsels were engaged
in this way during most of the time that I remained on board,
only suspending their delectable occupation to take their bites of
bread as it passed them in rotation. The effect upon my person
was what an Irishman would call the attraction of repulsion, as
I found myself almost unconsciously edging away until I halted
at a most respectable distance from the scene of slaughter.

At noon, Mr. N. and myself started on our pedestrian tour.
Captain Wyeth offering to accompany us a few miles on the way.
I was glad to get clear of St. Louis, as I felt uncomfortable in
many respects while there, and the bustle and restraint of a town
was any thing but agreeable to me. We proceeded over a road
generally good, a low dry prairie, mostly heavily timbered, the
soil underlaid with horizontal strata of limestone, abounding in
organic remains, shells, coralines, &c., and arrived in the evening
at Florisant, where we spent the night. The next day Captain
Wyeth lefl us for St. Louis, and my companion and myself pro-
ceeded on our route. We observed great numbers of the brown,
or sandhill crane, (Grus canadensis,) flying over us ; some flocks
were so high as to be entirely beyond the reach of vision, while
their harsh, grating voices were very distinctly heard. We saw
several flocks of the same cranes while ascending the Mississippi,
several days since. At about noon, we crossed the river on a
boat worked by horses, and stopped at a little town called St.
Charles.

We find it necessary, both for our comfort and convenience,
to travel very slowly, as our feet are already becoming tender,
and that wc may have an opportunity of observing the country,
and collecting interesting specimens. Unfortunately for the
inirsuits of my companion, tho plants (of which he finds a

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAIXS, ETC. 13

number that arc rare and curious) arc not yet in flower, and
therefore of little use to him. The birds are in considerable
numbers, among the principal of which is the large pileated
woodpecker, (Picus pileatus.)

Mr. N. and myself are both in high spirits. We travel slowly,
and without much fatigue, and when we arrive at a house, stop
and rest, take a drink of milk, and chat with those we see. We
have been uniformly well treated ; the living is good, and very
cheap, and at any house at which we stop the inhabitants are
sure to welcome us to their hospitality and good cheer. They
live comfortably, and without much labor ; possess a fruitful and
easily tilled soil, for which they pay the trifling sum of one dollar
and a quarter per acre ; they raise an abundance of good In-
dian corn, potatoes, and other vegetables ; have excellent beef
and pork, and, in short, every thing necessary for good, whole-
some living.

31s<. — The road to-day was muddy and slippery, rendered so by
a heavy rain which fell last night. This morning, we observed
large flocks of wild pigeons passing over, and on the bare prairies
were thousands of golden plovers ; the ground was often literally
covered with them for acres. I killed a considerable number.
They were very fat, and we made an excellent meal of them in
the evening. The prairie hen, or pinnated grouse, is also
very numerous, but in these situations is shy, and difficult to be
procured.

Towards evening we were overtaken by a bluff, jolly looking
man, on horseback, who, as is usual, stopped, and entered into
conversation with us. I saw immediately that he was superior
to those we had been accustomed to meet. He did not ply us
with questions so eagerly as most, and when he heard that we
were naturalists, and were travelling in that capacity, he seemed
to take considerable interest in us. He invited us to stop at his
house, which was only a mile beyond, and as night was almost

14 NARRATIVE OF A JOrRXEY

upon us, we accepted the invitation with cheerfulness. Upon
arriving at his mansion, our good host threw wide his hospitable
doors, and then with a formal, and rather ultra-dignified polite-
ness, making us a low bow, said, " Gentlemen, my name is P.,
and I am very happy of your company." We seated ourselves
in a large, and well-furnished, parlor. Mr. P. excused himself
for a few minutes, and soon returned, bringing in three fine
looking girls, whom he introduced as his daughters. I took a
particular fancy to one of them, from a strong resemblance
which she bore to one of my female friends at home. These
girls were certainly very superior to most that I had seen in
Missouri, although somewhat touched with the awkward bash-
fulness and prudery which generally characterizes the prairie
maidens. They had lost their mother when young, and having
no companions out of the domestic circle, and consequently no
opportunity of aping the manners of the world, were perfect chil-
dren of nature. Their father, however, had given them a good,
plain education, and they had made some proficiency in needle
work, as was evinced by numerous neatly worked samplers
hanging in wooden frames around the room. Anon, supper was
brought in. It consisted of pork chops, ham, eggs, Indian bread
and butter, tea, coffee, milk, potatoes, preserved ginger, and
though last, certainly not least in value, an enormous tin dish
of plovers, (the contents of my game-bag,) fricaseed. Here
was certainly a most abundant repast, and we did ample justice
to it.

I endeavored to do the agreeable to the fair ones in the eve-
ning, and Mr. N. was monopolized by the father, who took a
great interest in plants, and was evidently much gratified by the
information my companion gave him on the subject.

The next morning when we rose, it was raining, and much
had evidently fallen during the night, making the roads wet
and muddy, and therefore uni)leasant for pedestrians. I confess

I

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 15

I was not sorry for this, for I felt myself very comfortably
situated, and had no wish to take to the road. Mr. P. urged the
propriety of our stopping at least another day, and the motion
being seconded by his fair daughter, (my favorite,) it was
irresistible.

On the following morning the sun was shining brightly, the
air was fresh and elastic, and the roads tolerably dry, so that
there was no longer any excuse for tarrying, and we pi'epared
for our departure. Our good host, grasping our hands, said
that he had been much pleased with our visit, and hoped to see
us again, and when I bid good bye to the pretty Miss P., I told
her that if I ever visited Missouri again, I would go many
miles out of my way to see her and her sisters. Her reply was
unsophisticated enough. " Do come again, and come in May
or June, for then there are plenty of prairie hens, and you can
shoot as many as you want, and you must stay a long while
with us, and we'll have nice times; good bye; I'm so sorry
you're going."

April Ath. — I rose this morning at daybreak, and left Mr. N.
dreaming of weeds, in a little house at which we stopped last
night, and in company with a long, lanky boy, (a son of the poor
widow, our hostess,) set to moulding bullets in an old iron
spoon, and preparing for deer hunting. The boy shouldered a
rusty rifle, that looked almost antediluvian, and off" we plodded
to a thicket, two miles from the house. We soon saw about a
dozen fine deer, and the boy, clapping his old fire-lock to his
shoulder, brought down a beautiful doe at the distance of a full
hundred yards. Away sprang the rest of the herd, and I crept
round the thicket to meet them. They soon came up, and I
fired my piece at a large buck, and wounded the poor creature
in the leg ; he went limping away, unable to overtake his com-
panions; I felt very sorry, but consoled myself with the reflection
that he would soon get well again.

16 NAKKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

We then gave up the pursuit, and turned our attention to the
turkies, wliicli were rather numerous in the thicket. They were
shy, as usual, and, when started from their lurking places,
ran away like deer, and hid themselves in the underwood.
Occasionally, however, they would perch on the high limbs of
the trees, and then we had some shots at them. In the course
of an hour we killed four, and returned to the house, where,
as I expected, Mr. N. was in a fever at my absence, and after
a late, and very good breakfast, proceeded on our journey.

We find in this part of the country less timber in the same
space than we have yet seen, and when a small belt appears,
it is a great relief, as the monotony of a bare prairie becomes
tiresome.

Towards evening we arrived at Loutre Lick. Here there is
a place called a Hotel. A Hotel, forsooth ! a pig-stye would
be a more appropriate name. Every thing about it was most
exceedingly filthy and disagreeable, but no better lodging was to
be had, for it might not be proper to apply for accommodation at
a private house in the immediate vicinity of a public one. They
gave us a wretched supper, not half so good as we had been
accustomed to, and we were fain to spend the evening in a
comfortless, unfurnished, nasty bar-room, that smelt intolerably
of rum and whiskey, to listen to the profane conversation of
three or four uncouth individuals, (among whom were the host
and his brother,) and to hear long and disagreeably minute
discussions upon horse-racing, gambling, and other vices equally
unpleasant to us.

The host's brother had been to the Rocky Mountains, and soon
learning our destination, gave us much unsought for advice re-
garding our method of journeying ; painted in strong colors the
many dangers and difficulties which we must encounter, and
concluded by advising us to give up the expedition. My fast
ebbing patience was completely exhausted. I told him that

ACROSS THE KOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 17

nothing that he could say would discourage us, — that we went to
that house in order to seek repose, and it was unfair to intrude
conversation upon us unasked. The ruffian made some grum-
bling reply, and left us in quiet and undisturbed possession of our
bench. We had a miserable time that night. The only spare
bed in the house was so intolerably filthy that we dared not
undress, and we had hardly closed our eyes before we were
assailed by swarms of a vile insect, (the very name of which is
offensive,) whose effluvia we had plainly perceived immediately
as we entered the room. It is almost needless to say, that very
early on the following morning, after paying our reckoning, and
refusing the landlord's polite invitation to " liquorize,^^ we
marched from the house, shook the dust from our feet, and went
elsewhere to seek a breakfast.

Soon after leaving, we came to a deep and wide creek, and
strained our lungs for half an hour in vain endeavors to waken
a negro boy who lived in a hut on the opposite bank, and who,
we were told, would ferry us over. He came out of his den at
last, half naked and rubbing his eyes to see who had disturbed
his slumbers so early in the marning. We told him to hurry
over, or we'd endeavor to assist him, and he came at last, with
a miserable leaky little skiff that wet our feet completely. We
gave him a pickayune for his trouble, and went on. We
soon came to a neat little secluded cottage in the very heart
of a thick forest, where we found a fine looking young man,
with an interesting wife, and a very pretty child about six
months old. Upon being told that we wanted some breakfast,
the woman tucked up her sleeves, gave the child to her hus-
band, and went to work in good earnest. In a very short time
a capital meal was smoking on the board, and while we were
partaking of the good cheer, we found our vexation rapidly
evaporating. We complimented the handsome young hostess,

18 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

putted the cliubby cheeks of the child, and were in a good humor
with every body.

6th. — Soon after we started this morning, we were overtaken
by a stage wliich was going to Fulton, seven miles distant,
and as the roads were somewhat heavy, we concluded to make
use of this convenience. The only passengers were three
vouno- men from the far west, who had been to the eastward
purchasing goods, and were then travelling homeward. Two
of them evidently possessed a large share of what is called
mother wit, and so we had jokes without number. Some of
them were not very refined, and perhaps did not suit the day
very well, (it being the Sabbath,) yet none of them were really
offensive, but seemed to proceed entirely from an exuberance of
animal spirits.

In about an hour and a half we arrived at Fulton, a pretty
little town, and saw the villagers in their holiday clothes
parading along to church. The bell at that moment sounded,
and the peal gave rise to many reflections. It might be
Ions ere I should hear the sound of the " church-2;oino; bell"
again. I was on my way to a far, far country, and I did
not know that I should ever be permitted to re-visit my own.
I felt that I was leaving the scenes of my childhood ; the spot
which had v/itnessed all the happiness I ever knew, the home
where all my affections were centered. I was entering a land
of strangers, and would be compelled hereafter to mingle with
those who might look upon me with indifference, or treat me
with neglect.

These reflections were soon checked, however. We took a
light lunch at the tavern where we stopped. I shouldered my
gun, Mr. N. his stick and bundle, and off we trudged again,
westward, ho ! We soon lost sight of the prairie entirely, and our
way lay through a country thickly covered with heavy timber,
the roads very rough and stony, and we had frequently to ford

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 19

the creeks on our route, the late freshets having carried away the
briclfres.

Our accommodation at the farm houses has generally been
good and comfortable, and the inhabitants obliging, and anxious
to please. They are, however, exceedingly inquisitive, pro-
pounding question after question, in such quick succession as
scarcely to allow you breathing time between them. This kind
of catechising was at first very annoying to us, but we have
now become accustomed to it, and have hit upon an expedient to
avoid it in a measure. The first question generally asked, is,
"where do you come from, gentlemen?" We frame our answer
somewhat in the style of Dr. Franklin. " We come from Penn-
sylvania; our names, Nuttall and Townsend ; we are travelling
to Independence on foot, for the purpose of seeing the country
to advantage, and we intend to proceed from thence across the
mountains to the Pacific. Have you any mules to sell 1"
The last clause generally changes the conversation, and saves
us trouble. To a stranger, and one not accustomed to the
manners of the western people, this kind of interrogating seems
to imply a lack of modesty and common decency, but it is cer-
tainly not so intended, each one appearing to* think himself enti-
tled to gain as much intelligence regarding the private aifairs
of a stranger, as a very free use of his lingual organ can pro-
cure for him.

We found the common gray squirrel very abundant in
some places, particularly in the low bottoms along water
courses; in some situations we saw them skipping on al-
most every tree. On last Christmas day, at a squirrel hunt
in this neighborhood, about thirty persons killed the astonish-
ing number of twelve hundred, between the rising and setting of
the sun.

This may seem like useless barbarity, but it is justified by the
consideration Ihat all the crops of corn in the country arc fre-

20 :^ARnATivE of a journey

quently destroyed by these animals. This extensive extermina-
tion is carried on every year, and yet it is said that their numbers
do not appear to be much diminished.

About mid-day, on the 7th, we passed through a small town
called Columbia, and stopped in the evening at Rocheport, a little
village on the Missouri river. We were anxious to find a steam-
boat bound for Independence, as we feared we might linger too
long uj)on the road to make the necessary preparations for our
contemplated journey.

On the following day, we crossed the Missouri, opposite Roche-
port, in a small skiif. The road here, for several miles, winds
along the bank of the river, amid fine groves of sycamore and
Athenian poplars, then stretches off for about three miles, and does
not again approach it until you arrive at Boonville. It is by far
the most hilly road that we have seen, and I was frequently re-
minded, while travelling on it, of our Chester county. We entered
the town of Boonville early in the afternoon, and took lodgings in
a very clean, and respectably kept hotel. I was much pleased
with Boonville. It is the prettiest town I have seen in Missouri;
situated on the bank of the river, on an elevated and beautiful spot,
and overlooks a large extent of lovely country. The town
contains two good hotels, (but no grog shops, properly so called,)
several well-furnished stores, and five hundred inhabitants. It
was laid out thirty years ago by the celebrated western pioneer,
whose name it bears.

We saw here vast numbers of the beautiful parrot of this
country, (the Psittacus carolinensis.) They flew around us in
flocks, keeping a constant and loud screaming, as though they
would chide us for invading their territory ; and the splendid green
and red of their plumage glancing in the sunshine, as they whirled
and circled within a few feet of us, had a most magnificent ap-
pearance. They seem entirely unsuspicious of danger, and after
being fired at, only huddle closer together, as if to obtain protec-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 21

tion from each other, and as their companions are falling around
them, they curve down their necks, and look at them fluttering
upon the ground, as though perfectly at a loss to account for
so unusual an occurrence. It is a most inglorious sort of
shooting ; down right, cold-blooded murder.

On the afternoon of the 9th, a steamboat arrived, on board of
which we were surprised and pleased to find Captain Wyeth, and
our ^^ plunder.'''' We embarked immediately, and soon after,
were puffing along the Missouri, at the rate of seven miles an
hour. When we stopped in the afternoon to " wood," we were
gratified by a sight of one of the enormous catfish of this river
and the Mississippi, weighing full sixty pounds. It is said,
however, that they are sometimes caught of at least double this
weight. They are excellent eating, coarser, but quite as good as
the common small catfish of our rivers. There is nothing
in the scenery of the river banks to interest the traveller
particularly. The country is generally level and sandy, re-
lieved only by an occasional hill, and some small rocky accli-
vities.

A shocking accident happened on board during this trip. A
fine looking black boy (a slave of one of the deck passengers)
was standing on the platform near the fly-wheel. The steam
had just been stopped off", and the wheel was moving slowly by
the impetus it had acquired. The poor boy unwittingly thrust
his head between the spokes^ a portion of the steam was at that
moment let on, and his head and shoulders were torn to frag-
ments. We buried him on shore the same day ; the poor wo-
man, his mistress, weeping and lamenting over him as for her
own child. She told me she had brought him up from an
infant ; he had been as an affectionate son to her, and for years
her only support.

March 20th. — On the morning of the 14th, we arrived at
Independence landing, and shortly afterwards, Mr. N. and

22 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

myself walked to the town, three miles distant. The country
here is very hilly and. rocky, thickly covered with timber, and
no prairie within several miles.

The site of the town is beautiful, an* very well selected,
standing on a high point of land, and overlooking the surround-
ing country, but the town itself is very indifferent ; the houses,
(about fifty,) are very much scattered, composed of logs and
clay, and are low and inconvenient. There are six or eight
stores here, two taverns, and a few tipling houses. As we did not
fancy the town, nor the society that we saw there, we concluded
to take up our residence at the house on the landing until the
time of starting on our journey. We were very much disap-
pointed in not being able to purchase any mules here, all the
saleable ones having been bought by the Santa Fee traders,
several weeks since. Horses, also, are rather scarce, and are
sold at higher prices than we had been taught to expect, the
demand for them at this time being greater than usual. Mr. N.
and myself have, however, been so fortunate as to find five
excellent animals amongst the hundreds of wretched ones offered
for sale, and have also engaged a man to attend to packing our
loads, and perform the various duties of our camp.

The men of the party, to the number of about fifty, are en-
camped on tlie bank of the river, and their tents whiten the plain
for the distance of half a mile. I have often enjoyed the view
on a fine moonlight evening from the door of the house, or
perched upon a high hill immediately over the spot. The beau-
tiful white tents, with alight gleaming from each, the smoulder-
ing fires around them, the incessant hum of the men, and
occasionally the lively notes of a bacchanalian song, softened
and rendered sweeter by distance. I probably contemplate
these and similar scenes with the more interest, as they exhibit
the manner in which the next five months of my life are to be
spent.

ACROSS TIIK ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 23

We have amongst our men, a great variety of dispositions-
Some who have not been accustomed to the kind of life they are
to lead in future, look forvv^ard to it with eager delight, and talk
of stirring incidents and hair-breadth 'scapes. Others who are
more experienced seem to be as easy and unconcerned about it
as a citizen would be in contemplating a drive of a few miles into
the country. Some have evidently been reared in the shade,
and not accustomed to hardships, but the majority are
strong, able-bodied men, and many are almost as rough as
the grizzly bears, of their feats upon which they are fond of
boasting.

During the day the captain keeps all his men employed in
arranging and packing a vast variety of goods for carriage. In
addition to the necesssary clothing for the company, arms, am-
munition, &,c., there are thousands of trinkets of various kinds,
beads, paint, bells, rings, and such trumpery, intended as pre-
sents for the Indians, as well as objects of trade with them. The
bales are usually made to weigh about eighty pounds, of which a
horse carries two.

I am very much pleased with the manner in which Captain
W. manages his men. He appears admirably calculated to gain
the good will, and ensure the obedience of such a company, and
adopts the only possible mode of accomplishing his end. They
are men who have been accustomed to act independently ; they
possess a strong and indomitable spirit which will never succumb
to authority, and will only be conciliated by kindness and fami-
liarity. I confess I admire this spirit. It is noble ; it is free and
characteristic, but for myself, I have not been accustomed to
seeing it exercised, and when a rough fellow comes up without
warning, and slaps me on the shoulder, with, " stranger what for
a gun is that you carry ?" I start, and am on the point of making
an angry reply, but I remember where I am, check the feeling
instantly, and submit the weapon to his inspection. Captain W.

24 Is'ARRATIVE OF A JOUKNEV

may frequently be seen sitting on the ground, surrounded by a
knot of his independents, consulting them as to his present ar-
rangements and future movements, and paying the utmost defer-
ence to the opinion of the least among them.

We were joined here by Mr. Milton Sublette, a trader and
trapper of some ten or twelve years' standing. It is his intention to
travel with us to the mountains, and we are very glad of his com-
pany, both on account of his intimate acquaintance with the
country, and the accession to our band of about twenty trained
hunters, " true as the steel of their tried blades," who have more
than once followed their brave and sagacious leader over the
very track which we intend to pursue. He appears to be a man
of strong sense and courteous manners, and his men are enthu-
siastically attached to him.

Five missionaries, who intend to travel under our escort, have
also just arrived. The principal of these is a Mr. Jason Lee,
(a tall and powerful man, who looks as though he were well cal-
culated to buffet difficulties in a wild country,) his nephew, Mr.
Daniel Lee, and three younger men of respectable standing in
society, who have arrayed themselves under the missionary
banner, chiefly for the gratification of seeing a new country, and
participating in strange adventures.

My favorites, the birds, are very numerous in this vicinity,
and I am therefore in my element. Parroquets are plentiful in
the bottom lands, the two species of squirrel are abundant, and
rabbits, turkies, and deer are often killed by our people.

I was truly rejoiced to receive yesterday a letter from my
family. I went to the office immediately on my arrival here, con-
fidently expecting to find one lying there for me ; I was told there
was none, and I could not believe it, or would not ; I took all
the letters in my hand, and examined each of them myself, and I
suppose that during the process my expressions of disappoint-
ment were " loud and deep," as I observed the eyes of a number

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 25

of persons in the store directed towards me with manifest curiosity
and surprise. The obtuse creatures could not appreciate my
feelings. I was most anxious to receive intelligence from home,
as some of the members of the family were indisposed when
I left, and in a few days more I should be traversing the
uncultivated prairie and the dark forest, and perhaps never hear
from my home again. The letter came at last, however, and
was an inexpressible consolation to me.

The little town of Independence has within a few weeks been
the scene of a brawl, which at one time threatened to be attended
with serious consequences, but which was happily settled without
bloodshed. It had been for a considerable time the stronghold
of a sect of fanatics, called Mormons, or Mormonites, who, as
their numbers increased, and they obtained power, showed an
inclination to lord it over the less assuming inhabitants of the town.
This was a source of irritation which they determined to rid them-
selves of in a summary manner, and accordingly the whole town
rose, en masse, and the poor followers of the prophet were forcibly
ejected from the community. They took refuge in the little town
of Liberty, on the opposite side of the river, and the villagers
here are now in a constant state of feverish alarm. Reports
have been circulated that the Mormons are preparing to attack
the town, and put the inhabitants to the sword, and they have
therefore stationed sentries along the river for several miles, to
prevent the landing of the enemy. The troops parade and study
military tactics every day, and seem determined to repel, with
spirit, the threatened invasion. The probability is, that the re-
port respecting the attack, is, as John Bull says, " all humbug,"
and this training and marching has already been a source of no
little annoyance to us, as the miserable little skeleton of a saddler
who is engaged to work for our party, has neglected his busi-
ness, and must go a soldiering in stead. A day or two ago, I tried

to convince the little man that he was of no use to the army,

4

26 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

ibr if a Monnoii were to say pooh at him, it would blow him
away beyond the reach of danger or of glory ; but he thought
not, and no doubt concluded that he was a "marvellous pro-
per man," so we were put to great inconvenience waiting for our
saddles.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 27

CHAPTER 11.

Departure of the caravan — A storm on the prairie — Arrangement of the camp —
The cook''s desertion — Kanzas Indians — Kanzas river — Indian lodges —
Passage of the river — Buffalo canoes — Kanzas chief — Costume of the In-
dians— Upper Kaw village — their wigwams — Catfish and ravens — Iteturn
of JUr. Sublette — Pawnee trace — Desertion of three men — Difficulties occa-
sioned by losing the trail — Intelligence of J\ir. Sublette's party — Escape of
the band of horses — Visit of three Otto Indians —Anecdote of Richardson, the
chief hunter — his appearance and character — Tf'hite wolves and antelopes —
Buffalo bones — Sublette^s deserted cainp — Lurking wolves.

On the 28th of April, at 10 'o'clock in the morning, our
caravan, consisting of seventy men, and two hundred and fifty
horses, began its march ; Captain Wyeth and Milton Sublette
took the lead, Mr. N. and myself rode beside them ; then the
men in double file, each leading, with a line, two horses heavily
laden, and Captain Thing (Captain W.'s assistant) brought up
the rear. The band of missionaries, with their horned cattle,
rode along the flanks.

I frequently sallied out from my station to look at and admire
the appearance of the cavalcade, and as we rode out from the
encampment, our horses prancing, and neighing, and pawing
the ground, it was altogether so exciting that I could scarcely
contain myself. Every man in the company seemed to feel a
portion of the same kind of enthusiasm ; uproarious bursts of
merriment, and gay and lively songs, were constantly echoing
along the line. We were certainly a most merry and happy
company. What cared we for the future 1 We had reason to
expect that ere long difficulties and dangers, in various shapes,

28 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

would assail us, but no anticipation of reverses could check the
happy exuberance of our spirits.

Our road lay over a vast rolling prairie, with occasional
small spots of timber at the distance of several miles apart,
and this will no doubt be the complexion of the track for some
weeks.

In the afternoon we crossed the Big Blue river at a shallow
ford. Here we saw a number of beautiful yellow-headed
troopials, (Icterus zaiithrocephalus,) feeding upon the prairie in
company with large flocks of black birds, and like these, they
oflen alight upon the backs of our horses.

29th. — A heavy rain fell all the morning, which had the
effect of calming our transports in a great measure, and in
the afternoon it was succeeded by a tremendous hail storm.
During the rain, our party left the road, and proceeded about a
hundred yards from it to a range of bushes, near a stream
of water, for the purpose of encamping. We had just arrived
here, and had not yet dismounted, when the hail storm com-
menced. It came on very suddenly, and the stones, as large as
musket balls, dashing upon our horses, created such a panic
among them, that they plunged, and kicked, and many of them
threw their loads, and fled wildly over the plain. They were all
overtaken, however, and as the storm was not of long duration,
they were soon appeased, and staked for the night.

To stake or fasten a horse for the night, he is provided with
a strong leathern halter, with an iron ring attached to the chin
strap. To this ring, a rope of hemp or plaited leather, twenty-
two feet in length, is attached, and the opposite end of the line
made fast with several clove hitches around an oak or hickofy
pin, two and a half feet long. The top of this pin or stake is
ringed with iron to prevent its being bruised, and it is then
driven to the head in the ground. For greater security, hopples
made of stout leather are buckled around the fore legs ; and then,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 29

if tlie tackling is good, it is almost impossible for a horse to
escape. Care is always taken to stake him in a spot where he
may eat grass all night. The animals are placed sufficiently
far apart to prevent them interfering with each other.

Camping out to-night is not so agreeable as it might be, in
consequence of the ground being very wet and muddy, and our
blankets (our only bedding) thoroughly soaked ; but we expect
to encounter greater difficulties than these ere long, and we do
not murmur.

A description of the formation of our camp may, perhaps,
not be amiss here. The party is divided into messes of eigh|.
men, and each mess is allowed a separate tent. The captain of
a mess, (who is generally an " old hand," i. e. an experienced
forester, hunter, or trapper,) receives each morning the rations of
pork, flour, «Sz;c. for his people, and they choose one of their body
as cook for the whole. Our camp now consists of nine messes,
of which Captain W.'s forms one, although it only contains four
persons besides the cook.

When we arrive in the evening at a suitable spot for an en-
campment. Captain W. rides round a space which he considers
large enough to accommodate it, and directs where each mess
shall pitch its tent. The men immediately unload their horses,
and place their bales of goods in the direction indicated, and in
such manner, as in case of need, to form a sort of fortification
and defence. When all the messes are arranged in this way,
the camp forms a hollow square, in the centre of which the horses
are placed and staked firmly to the ground. The guard consists
of from six to eight men, and is relieved three times each night,
and so arranged that each gang may serve alternate nights.
The captain of a guard (who is generally also the captain of a
mess) collects his people at the appointed hour, and posts them
around outside the camp in such situations that they may com-

30 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

mand a view of the environs, and be ready to give the alarm m
case of danger.

The captain cries the hour regularly by a watch, and alVs
well, every fifteen minutes, and each man of the_ guard is re-
quired to repeat this call in rotation, which if any one should
fail to do, it is fair to conclude that he is asleep, and he is then
immediately visited and stirred up. In case of defection of this
kind, our laws adjudge to the delinquent the hard sentence of
walking three days. As yet none of our poor fellows have
incurred this penalty, and the probability is, that it would not at
this time be enforced, as we are yet in a country where little
molestation is to be apprehended ; but in the course of another
week's travel, when thieving and ill-designing Indians will be
outlying on our trail, it will be necessary that the strictest
watch be kept, and, for the preservation of our persons and pro-
perty, that our laws shall be rigidly enforced.

31(11/ 1st. — On rising this morning, and inquiring about our
prospects of a breakfast, we discovered that the cook of our mess
(a little, low-browed, ill-conditioned Yankee) had decamped in
the night, and left our service to seek for a better. He
probably thought the duties too hard for him, but as he
was a miserable cook, we should not have much regretted
his departure, had he not thought proper to take with him an
excellent rifle, powder-horn, shot-pouch, and other matters that
did not belong to him. It is only surprising that he did not
select one of our best horses to carry him ; but as he had the
grace to take his departure on foot, and we have enough men
without liim, wc can wish him God speed, and a fair run to the
settlements.

We encamped this evening on a small branch of the Kanzas
river. As wc approached our stopping place, we were joined
by a band of Kanzas Indians, (commonly called Kaic Indians.)
They are encamped in a neighboring copse, where they have

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 31

six lodges. This party is a small division of a portion of this
tribe, who are constantly wandering; but although their journeys
are sometimes pretty extensive, they seldom approach nearer to
the settlements than they arc at present. They are very
friendly, are not so tawdrily decorated as those we saw below, and
use little or no paint. This may, however, be accounted for by
their not having the customary ornaments, &c., as their ears are
filled with trinkets of various kinds, and are horribly gashed in
the usual manner. The dress of most that we have seen, has
consisted of ordinary woollen pantaloons received from the
whites, and their only covering, from the waist up, is a blanket
or buffalo robe. The head is shaved somewhat in the manner of
the Saques and Foxes, leaving the well known scalping tufl; but
unlike the Indians just mentioned, the hair is allowed to grow
upon the middle of the head, and extends backwards in a longi-
tudinal ridge to the occiput. It is here gathered into a kind of
queue, plaited, and suffered to hang down the back. There
were amongst them several squaws, with young children tied to
their backs, and a number of larger urchins ran about our camp
wholly naked.

The whole of the following day we remained in camp, trading
buffalo robes, apishemeaus, &c., of the Indians. These people
became at length somewhat troublesome to us who were not
traders, by a very free exercise of their begging propensities.
They appear to be exceedingly poor and needy, and take the
liberty of asking unhesitatingly, and without apparent fear of
refusal, for any articles that happen to take their fancy.

I have observed, that among the Indians now with us, none
but the chief uses the pipe. He smokes the article called
kanikanik, — a mixture of tobacco and the dried leaves of the
poke plant, {Phytolacca decandra.) I was amused last evening
by the old chief asking me in his impressive manner, (first by
pointing with his finger towards the sunset, and then raising his

32 NARRATIVE OI" A JOURNEY

hands high over his head,) if 1 was going to the mountains.
On answering him in the affirmative, he depressed his hands,
and passed them around his head in both directions, then turned
quickly away from me, with a very solemn and significant ugh!
He meant, doubtless, that my brain was turned ; in plain lan-
guage, that I was a fool. This may be attributed to his horror
of the Blackfcet Indians, with whom a portion of his tribe was
formerly at war. The poor Kaws are said to have suffered
dreadfully in these savage conflicts, and were finally forced to
abandon the country to their hereditary foes.

We were on the move early the next morning, and at noon
arrived at the Kanzas river, a branch of the Missouri. This is a
broad and not very deep stream, with the water dark and turbid,
like that of the former. As we approached it, we saw a number
of Indian lodges, made of saplings driven into the ground, bent
over and tied at top, and covered with bark and bufililo skms.
These lodges, or wigwams, are numerous on both sides of the
river. As we passed them, the inhabitants, men, women, and
children, flocked out to see us, and almost prevented our pro-
gress by their eager greetings. Our party stopped on the bank
of the river, and the horses were unloaded and driven into the
water. They swam beautifully, and with great regularity, and
arrived safely on the opposite shore, where they were confined
in a large lot, enclosed with a fence. After some difficulty, and
considerable detention, we succeeded in procuring a large flat
bottomed boat, embarked ourselves and goods in it, and landed
on the opposite side near our horse pen, where we encamped.
The lodges are numerous here, and there are also some good
frame houses inhabited by a few white men and women, who
subsist cliiefly by raising cattle, which they drive to the settle-
ments below. They, as well as the Indians, raise an abundance
of good corn ; potatoes and other vegetables are also plentiful,
and they can therefore live sufficiently well.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 33

The canoes used by the Indians are mostly made of buflalo
skins, stretched, while recent, over a light frame work of wood,
the seams sewed with sinews, and so closely, as to be wholly
impervious to water. These light vessels are remarkably
buoyant, and capable of sustaining very heavy burthens.

In the evening the principal Kanzas chief paid us a visit in
our tent. He is a young man about twenty-five years of age,
straight as a poplar, and with a noble countenance and bearing,
but he appeared to me to be marvellously deficient in most of the
requisites which go to make the character of a real Indian chief,
at least of such Indian chiefs as we read of in our popular books.
I begin to suspect, in truth, that these lofty and dignified attributes
are more apt to exist in the fertile brain of the novelist, than in
reality. Be this as it may, our chief is a very lively, laughing,
and rather playful personage ; perhaps he may put on his dignity,
like a glove, when it suits his convenience.

We remained in camp the whole of next day, and traded with
tlic Indians for 'a considerable number of robes, apishemeaus,
and halter ropes of hide. Our fat bacon and tobacco were in
sreat demand for these useful commodities.

The Kaws living here appear to be much more wealthy than
those who joined our camp on the prairie below. They are in
better condition, more richly dressed, cleaner, and more com-
fortable than their wandering brothers. The men have gene-
rally fine countenances, but all the women that I have seen are
homely. I cannot admire them. Their dress consists, univer-
sally of deer skin leggings, belted around the loins, and over
the upper part of the body a buffalo robe or blanket.

On the 20th in the morning, we packed our horses and rode
out of the Kaw settlement, leaving the river immediately, and
making a N. W. by W. course — and the next day came to an-
other village of the same tribe, consisting of about thirty lodges,

and situated in the midst of a beautiful level prairie.

5

34 NARHATIVE OF A JOUnNEY

The Indians stopped our caravan almost by force, and
evinced so much anxiety to trade with us, that we could not well
avoid gratifying them. We remained with them about two
hours, and bought corn, moccasins and leggings in abundance.
The lodges here are constructed very differently from those of
the lower village. They are made of large and strong timbers,
a ridge pole runs along the top, and the different pieces are fast-
ened together by leathern thongs. The roofs, — which are sin-
gle, making but one angle, — are of stout poplar bark, and form
an excellent defence, both against rain and the rays of the sun,
which must be intense during midsummer in this region. These
prairies are often visited by heavy gales of wind, which would
probably demolish the huts, were they built of frail materials
like those below. We encamped in the evening on a small stream
called Little Vermillion creek, where we found an abundance of
excellent catfish, exactly similar to those of the Schuylkill
river. Our people caught them in great numbers. Here we
first saw the large ravens, (Corvus corax.) They hopped about
the ground all around our camp ; and as we left it, they came in'
pell-mell, croaking, fighting, and scrambling for the few frag-
ments that remained.

Sth. — This morning Mr. Sublette lefl us to return to the set-
tlements. He has been suffering for a considerable time with a
fungus in one of his legs, and it has become so much worse since
we started, in consequence of irritation caused by riding, that he
finds it impossible to proceed. His departure has thrown a
gloom over the v/hole camp. We all admired him for his amia-
ble qualities, and his kind and obliging disposition. For myself,
I had become so much attached to him, that I feel quite melan-
choly about his leaving us.*

*1 have since learned that his liml) was twice amputated; but notwitlistanding this,
the disease lingered in the system, andal)outa year ago, terminated his life.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 35

The weather is now very warm, and there has been a dead
cahn all day, which renders travelling most uncomfortable.
We have frequently been favored with fresh breezes, which
make it very agreeable, but the moment these fail us we are
almost suffocated with intense heat. Our rate of travelling is
about twenty miles per day, which, in this warm weather, and
with heavily packed horses, is as much as we can accomplish
with comfort to ourselves and animals.

On the afternoon of the next day, we crossed a broad Indian
trail, bearing northerly, supposed to be about five days old, and
to have been made by a war party of Pawnees. We are now in
the country traversed by these Indians, and are daily expecting
to see them, but Captain W. seems very desirous to avoid them,
on account of their well known thieving propensities, and quar-
relsome disposition. These Indians go every year to the plains
of the Platte, where they spend some weeks in hunting the
buffalo, jerking their meat, and preparing their skins for robes ;
they then push on to the Black Hills, and look out for the parties
of Blackfeet, which are also bound to the Platte river plains
When the opposing parties come in collision, (which frequently
happens,) the most cruel and sanguinary conflicts ensue. In
the evening, three of our men deserted. Like our quondam
cook, they all took rifles, &c., that did not belong to them, and
one of these happened to be a favorite piece of Captain W.'s,
which had done him good service in his journey across this
country two years ago. He was very much attached to the gun,
and in despite of his calm and cool philosophy in all vexatious
matters, he cannot altogether conceal his chagrin.

The little streams of this part of the country are fringed with
a thick growth of pretty trees and bushes, and the buds are now
swelling, and the leaves expanding, to " welcome back the
spring." The birds, too, sing joyously amongst them, grosbeaks,
thrushes, and buntings, a merry and musical band. I am par-

36 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

ticularly fond of sallying out early in the morning, and strolling
around the camp. The light breeze just bends the tall tops of
the grass on the boundless prairie, the birds are commencing
their matin carollings, and all nature looks fresh and beautiful.
The horses of the camp are lying comfortably on their sides,
and seem, by the glances which they give me in passing, to
know that their hour of toil is approaching, and the patient kine
are ruminating in happy unconsciousness.

11th. — We encountered some rather serious difficulties to-day
in fording several wide and deep creeks, having muddy and
miry bottoms. Many of our horses, (and particularly those that
were packed,) fell into the water, 'and it was with the greatest
difficulty and labor that they were extricated. Some of the
scenes presented were rather ludicrous to those who were
not actors in them. The floundering, kicking, and falling of
horses in the heavy slough, man and beast rolling over together,
and squattering amongst the black mud, and the wo-begone
looks of horse, rider, and horse-furniture, often excited a smile,
even while we pitied their begrimed and miserable plight. All
these troubles are owing to our having lost the trail yesterday,
and we have been travelling to-day as nearly in the proper
course as our compass indicated, and hope soon to find it.

12th. — Our scouts came in this morning with the intelligence
that they had found a large trail of white men, bearing N. W.
We have no doubt that this is Wm. Sublette's party, and that it
passed us last evening. They must have travelled very rapidly
to overtake us so soon, and no doubt had men ahead watching
our motions. It seems rather unfriendly, perhaps, to run by us
in this furtive way, without even stopping to say good morning,
but Sublette is attached to a rival company, and all stratagems
are deemed allowable when interest is concerned. Tt is a
matter of some moment to be the first at the mountain rcn-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 37

dezvous, in order to obtain the furs brought every summer by
the trappers.

Last night, while I Avas serving on guard, I observed an
unusual commotion among our band of horses, a wild neighing,
snorting, and plunging, for which I was unable to account. I
directed several of my men to go in and appease them,, and
endeavor to ascertain the cause. They had scarcely started,
liowever, when about half of the band broke their fastenings,
snapped the hopples on their legs, and went dashing right
through the midst of the camp. DoAvn went several of the tents,
the rampart of goods was cleared in gallant style, and away
went the frightened animals at full speed over the plain. The
whole camp was instantly aroused. The horses that remained,
were bridled as quickly as possible ; we mounted them without
saddles, and set off in hard pursuit after the fugitives. The
night was pitch dark, but we needed no light to point out the
way, as the clattering of hoofs ahead on the hard ground of the
prairie, sounded like thunder. After riding half an hour, we
overtook about forty of them, and surrounding them with difficulty,
succeeded in driving them back, and securing them as before.
Twenty men were then immediately despatched to scour the
country, and bring in the remainder. This party was headed
by Mr. Lee, our missionary, (who, with his usual promptitude,
volunteered his services,) and they returned early this morning,
bringing nearly sixty more. We find, however, upon counting
the horses in our possession, that there are yet three missing.

While we were at breakfast,three Indians of the Otto tribe, came
to our camp to see, and smoke with us. These were men of
rather short stature, but strong and firmly built. Their coun-
tenances resemble in general expression those of the Kanzas,
and their dresses are very similar. We are all of opinion, that
it is to these Indians we owe our difficulties of last night, and
we have no doubt that the three missino; horses are now in their

38 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY —

possession, but as we cannot prove it upon them, and cannot
even converse with them, (having no interpreters,) we are com-
pelled to submit to our loss in silence. Perhaps we should even
be thankful that we have not lost more.

While these people were smoking the pipe of peace with us,
after breakfast, I observed that Richardson, our chief hunter, (an
experienced man in this country, of a tall and iron frame, and
almost child-like simplicity of character, in fact an exact coun-
terpart of Hawk-eye in his younger days,) stood aloof, and re-
fused to sit in the circle, in which it was always the custom of the
old hands to join-
Feeling some curiosity to ascertain the cause of this unusual
diffidence, I occasionally allowed my eyes to wander to the spot
where our sturdy hunter stood looking moodily upon us, as the
calamet passed from hand to hand around the circle, and I
thought I perceived him now and then cast a furtive glance at
one of the Indians who sat opposite to me, and sometimes his
countenance would assume an expression almost demoniacal, as
though the most fierce and deadly passions were raging in his
bosom. I felt certain that hereby hung a tale, and I watched for
a corresponding expression, or at least a look of consciousness,
in the face of my opposite neighbor, but expression there was
none. His large features were settled in a tranquillity which no-
thing could disturb, and as he puffed the smoke in huge volumes
from his mouth, and the fragrant vapor wreathed and curled
around his head, he seemed the embodied spirit of meekness and
taciturnity.

The camp moved soon after, and I lost no time in overhaul-
ing Richardson, and asking an explanation of his singular con-
duct.

" Why," said he, " that Jnjen that sat opposite to you, is my
bitterest enemy. I was once going down alone from the rendez-
vous with letters for St. Louis, and when I arrived on the lower

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 39

part of the Platte river, (just a short distance beyond us here,)
I fell in with about a dozen Ottos. They wez'e known to be a
friendly tribe, and I therefore felt no fear of them. I dismounted
from my horse and sat with them upon the ground. It was in
the depth of winter ; the ground was covered with snow, and
the river was frozen solid. While I was thinking of nothino; but
my dinner, which I was then about preparing, four or five of the
cowards jumped on me, mastered my rifle, and held my arms fast,
while they took from me my knife and tomahawk, my flint and
steel, and all my ammunition. They then loosed me, and told
me to be off. I begged them, for the love of God, to give me my
rifle and a few loads of ammmunition, or I should starve before
I could reach the settlements. No — I should have nothing, and
if I did not start off immediately, they would throw me under the
ice of the river. And," continued the excited hunter, — while
he ground his teeth with bitter, and uncontrollable rage, — " that
man that sat opposite to you was the chief of them. He recog-
nised me, and knew very well the reason why I would not smoke
with him. I tell you, sir, if ever I meet that man in any other
situation than that in which I saw him this morning, I'll shoot him
with as little hesitation as I would shoot a deer. Several years
have passed since the perpetration of this outrage, but it is still
as fresh in my memory as ever, and I again declare, that if
ever an opportunity offers, I will kill that man." " But, Richard-
son, did they take your horse also ?" " To be sure they did,
and my blankets, and every thing I had, except my clothes." " But
how did you subsist until you reached the settlements ? You had
a long journey before you." " Why, set to trappin' prairie squir-
rels with little nooses made out of the hairs of my head." I
should remark that his hair was so long, that it fell in heavy
masses on his shoulders. " But squirrels in winter, Richardson,
I never heard of squirrels in winter." " Well but there was
plenty of them, though ; little white ones, that lived among the

40 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

snow." " Well, really, this was an unpleasant sort of adventure
enough, but let me suggest that you do very wrong to remember
it with such blood-thirsty feelings." He shook his head with a
dogged and determined air, and rode off as if anxious to escape a
lecture.

A little sketch of our hunter may perhaps not be uninterest-
ing, as he will figure somewhat in the following pages, being one
of the principal persons of the party, the chief hunter, and a man
upon whose sagacity and knowledge of the country we all in a
great measure depended.

In heisht he is several inches over six feet, of a spare but re-
markably strong and vigorous frame, and a countenance of
almost infantile simplicity and openness. In disposition he is
mild and affable, but when roused to indignation, his keen eyes
glitter and flash, the muscles of his large mouth work convul-
sively, and he looks the very impersonation of the spirit of evil.
He is implacable in anger, and bitter in revenge ; never forgetting
a kindness, but remembering an injury with equal tenacity.
Such is the character of our hunter, and none who have known
him as I have, will accuse me of delineating from fancy. His na-
tive place is Connecticut, which he left about twelve years ago,
and has ever since been engaged in roaming through the bound-
less plains and rugged mountains of the west, often enduring the
extremity of famine and fatigue, exposed to dangers and vicissi-
tudes of every kind, all for the paltry, and often uncertain pit-
tance of a Rocky Mountain hunter. He says he is now tired of
this wandering and precarious life, and when he shall be enabled
to save enough from his earnings to buy a farm in Connecticut,
he intends to settle down a quiet tiller of the soil, and enjoy the
sweets of domestic felicity. But this day will probably never
arrive. Even should he succeed in realizing a little fortune, and
the farm should be taken, the monotony and tameness of the
scene will weary his free spirit ; he will often sigh for a habi-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 41

tation on the broad prairie, or a ramble over the dreary moun-
tains where his lot has so long been cast.

I5th. — We saw to-day several large white wolves, and two
herds of antelopes. The latter is one of the most beautiful
animals I ever saw. When full grown, it is nearly as large as
a deer. The horns are rather short, with a single prong near
the top, and anabiupt backward curve at the summit like a hook.
The ears are very delicate, almost as thin as paper, and hooked
at the tip like the horns. The legs are remarkably light and
beautifully formed, and as it bounds over the plain, it seems
scarcely to touch the ground, so exceedingly light and agile are
its motions. This animal is the Antelope furcifer of zoologists,
and inhabits the western prairies of North America exclusively.
The ground here is strewn with great quantities of buffalo
bones; the skulls of many of them in great perfection. I
often thought of my friend Doctor M. and his golgotha, while
we were kicking these fine specimens about the ground. We
are now travelling along the banks of the Blue river, — a small
fork of the Kanzas. The grass is very luxuriant and good, and
we have excellent and beautiful camps every night.

This morning a man was sent ahead to see W. Sublette's
camp, and bear a message to him, who returned in the evening
with the information that the company is only one day's journey
beyond, and consists of about thirty-five men. We see his
deserted camps every day, and, in some cases, the fires are not
yet extinguished. It is sometimes amusing to see the wolves
lurking like guilty things around these camps, seeking for the
fragments that may be left ; as our party approaches, they sneak
away with a mean, hang-dog air, which often coaxes a whistling
bullet out of the rifle of the wayfarer.

6

42 NAKRATIVE OF A JOURIVEV

CHAPTER III.

Arrival at the Platte river — Wolves and antelopes — Saline efflorescences —
Anxiety of the men to see buffalo — Visit of two spies from tlie Grand Paw-
nees—Forced march — A herd of bvffiilo — Elk — Singular conduct of the
liorses— Killing a hnffalo — Indian mode of proairing buffalo — Great herd —
Intention of the men to desert— Adventure with an Indian in the tent — Cir-
cumspection necessary — Indian feat with bow and arrow — J\~otice of the
Pawnee tribes — Disappearance of the buffalo from the plains of the Platte —
A hunting adventure — XiUing- a buffalo — Butchering of a bull — Shameful
desti^ction of the game — Hunters^ mode of quenching thirst.

On the 18th of May we arrived at the Platte river. It is
from one and a half to two miles in width, very shoal ; large
sand flats, and small, verdant islands appearing in every part.
Wolves and antelopes were in great abundance here, and the
latter were frequently killed by our men. We saw, also, the
sandhill crane, great heron, (Ardea heroidas,) and the long-
billed curlew, stalking about through the shallow water, and
searching for their aquatic food.

The prairie is here as level as a race course, not the slightest
undulation appearing throughout the whole extent of vision, in a
north and westerly direction ; but to the eastward of the river,
and about eight miles from it, is seen a range of high bluffs or
sand banks, stretching away to the south-east until they are lost
in the far distance.

The ground here is in many places encrusted with an impure
salt, which by the taste appears to be a combination of the sul-
phate and muriate of soda ; there are also a number of little
pools, of only a few inches in depth, scattered over the plain, the
water of v.hich is so bitter and pungent, that it seems to pene-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 43

trate into the tongue, and almost to produce decortication of the
mouth.

We are now within about three days' journey of the usual
haunts of the buffalo, and our men (particularly the uninitiated)
look forward to our arrival amongst them with considerable
anxiety. They have listened to the garrulous hunter's details
of " approaching,'''' and " running,'''' and " quartering,'''' until
they fancy themselves the very actors in the scenes related, and
are fretting and fuming with impatience to draw their maiden
triggers upon the unoffending rangers of the plain.

The next morning, we perceived two men on horseback, at
a great distance; and upon looking at them with our telescope,
discovered them to be Indians, and that they were approaching
us. When they arrived within three or four hundred yards,
they halted, and appeared to wish to communicate with us, but
feared to approach too nearly. Captain W. rode out alone and
joined them, while the party proceeded slowly on its way. In
about fifteen minutes he returned with the information that they
were of the tribe called Grand Pawnees. They told him that
a war party of their people, consisting of fifteen hundred
warriors, was encamped about thirty miles below; and the cap-
tain inferred that these men had been sent to watch our motions,
and ascertain our place of encampment ; he was therefore careful
to impress upon them that we intended to go but a few miles
further, and pitch our tents upon a little stream near the main
river. When we were satisfied that the messengers were out of
sight of us, on their return to their camp, our whole caravan was
urged into a brisk trot, and we determined to steal a march upon
our neighbors. The little stream was soon passed, and we went
on, and on, without slackening our pace, until 12 o'clock at
night. We then called a halt on the bank of the river, made a
hasty meal, threw ourselves down in our blankets, without
pitching the tents, and slept soundly for three hours. We were

44 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

then aroused, and off we went again, travelling steadily the
whole day, making about thirty-five miles, and so got quite
clear of the Grand Pawnees.

The antelopes are very numerous here. There is not half an
hour during the day in which they are not seen, and they fre-
quently permit the party to approach very near them. This
afternoon, two beautiful does came bounding after ns, bleating
precisely like sheep. The men imitated the call, and they came
up to within fifty yards of us, and stood still; two of the hunters
fired, and both the poor creatures fell dead. We can now pro-
cure as many of these animals as we wish, but their flesh is not
equal to common venison, and is frequently rejected by our
people. A number are, however, slaughtered every day, from
mere wantonness and love of killing, the greenhorns gloryino- in
the sport, like our striplings of the city, in their annual murder-
ing of robins and sparrows.

20th. — This afternoon, we came in sight of a large ga7ig of
the long-coveted buffalo. They were grazing on the opposite
side of the Platte, quietly as domestic cattle, but as we neared
them, the foremost winded us, and started back, and the whole herd
followed in the wildest confusion, and were soon out of sio-ht.
There must have been many thousands of them. Towards
evening, a large band of elk came towards us at full gallop, and
passed very near the party. The appearance of these animals
produced a singular effect upon our horses, all of which became
restive, and about half the loose ones broke away, and scoured
over the plain in full chase after the elk. Captain W. and
several of his men went immediately in pursuit of them, and
returned late at night, bringing the greater number. Two have,
however, been lost irrecoverably. Our observed latitude, yes-
terday, was 40° 31', and our computed distance from the Mis-
souri settlements, about 360 miles.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS^ ETC. 45

The day following, we saw several small herds of buffalo,
on our side of the river. Two of our hunters started out after a
huge bull that had separated himself from his companions, and
gave him chase on t?eet horses.

Away went the buffalo, and away went the men, hard as they
could dash ; now the hunters gained upon him, and pressed him
hard ; again the enormous creature had the advantage, plunging
with all his might, his terrific horns oflen ploughing up the
earth as he spurned it under him. Sometimes he would double,
and rush so near the horses as almost to gore them with his
horns, and in an instant would be off in a tangent, and throw
his pursuers from the track. At length the poor animal came to
bay, and made some unequivocal demonstrations of combat ;
raising and tossing his head furiously, and tearing up the ground
with his feet. At this moment a shot was fired. The victim
trembled like an aspen, and fell to his knees, but recovering
himself in an instant, started again as fast as before. Again the
determined hunters dashed after him, but the poor bull was
nearly exhausted, he proceeded but a short distance and stopped
again. The hunters approached, rode slowly by him, and shot
two balls through his body with the most perfect coolness and
precision. During the race, — the whole of which occurred in
full view of the party, — the men seemed wild with the excite-
ment which it occasioned ; and when the animal fell, a shout
rent the air, which startled the antelopes by dozens from the
bluffs, and sent the wolves howling like demons from their
lairs.

This is the most common mode of killing the buffalo, and is
practised very generally by the travelling hunters ; many are
also destroyed by approaching them on foot, when, if the bushes
are sufficiently dense, or the grass high enough to afford con-
cealment, the hunter, — by keeping carefully to leeward of his
game, — may sometimes approach so near as almost to touch

46 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the animal. If on a plain, without grass or bushes, it is neces-
sary to be very circumspect ; to approach so slowly as not to
excite alarm, and, when observed by the animal, to imitate
dexterously, the clumsy motions of a young bear, or assume
the sneaking, prowling attitude of a wolf, in order to lull suspi-
cion.*

The Indians resort to another stratagem, which is, perhaps,
even more successful. The skin of a calf is properly dressed,
with the head and legs left attached to it. The Indian envelopes
himself in this, and with his short bow and a brace of arrows,
ambles off into the very midst of a herd. When he has selected
such an animal as suits his fancy, he comes close alongside of it,
and without noise, passes an arrow through its heart. One
arrow is always sufficient, and it is generally delivered with such
force, that at least half the shaft appears through the opposite
side. The creature totters, and is about to fall, when the Indian
glides around, and draws the arrow from the wound lest it should
be broken. A single Indian is said to kill a great number of
buffaloes in this way, before any alarm is communicated to the
herd.

Towards evening, on rising a hill, we were suddenly greeted
by a sight which seemed to astonish even the oldest amongst us.
The whole plain, as far as the eye could discern, was covered by
one enormous mass of buffalo. Our vision, at the very least
computation, would certainly extend ten miles, and in the whole
of this great space, including about eight miles in width from
the bluffs to the river bank, there was apparently no vista in the
incalculable multitude. It was truly a sight that would have
excited even the dullest mind to enthusiasm. Our party rode up
to within a few hundred yards of the edge of the herd, before any
alarm was communicated ; then the bulls, — which are always
stationed around as sentinels, — began pawing the ground, and

* 1 have several times seen Ricliardsoii kill bufT;ilo in tiiis nianiier.

ACROSS THE ROCKV 3I0ITNTAINS, ETC. 47

throwing tlie earth over their heads ; in a few moments they
started in a slow, clumsy canter ; but as we neared them, they
quickened their pace to an astonishingly rapid gallop, and in a few
minutes were entirely beyond the reach of our guns, but were
still so near that their enormous horns, and long shaggy beards,
were very distinctly seen. Shortly after we encamped, our
hunters brought in the choice parts of five that they had killed.

For the space of several days past, we have observed an
inclination in five or six of our men to leave our service.
Immediately as we encamp, we see them draw together in some
secluded spot, and engage in close and earnest conversation.
This has occured several times, and as we are determined, if
possible, to keep our horses, &c., for our own use, we have
stationed a sentry near their tent, whose orders are peremptory
to stop them at any hazard in case of an attempt on their part, to
appropriate our horses. The men we are willing to lose, as
they are of very little service, and we can do without them ; but
horses here are valuable, and we cannot afford to part with them
without a sufficient compensation.

22d. — On walkincr into our tent last niarht at eleven o'clock,
after the expiration of the first watch, (in which I had served as
supernumerary, to'prevent the desertion of the men,) and stooping
to lay my gun in its usual situation near the head of my pallet,
I was startled by seeing a pair of eyes, wild and bright as those
of a tiger, gleaming from a dark corner of the lodge, and
evidently directed upon me. My first impression was, that a
wolf had been lurking around the camp, and had entered the
tent in the prospect of finding meat. My gun was at my
shoulder instinctively, my aim was directed between the eyes,
and my finger pressed the trigger. At that moment a tall Indian
sprang before me with a loud wah ! seized the gun, and elevated
the muzzle above my head ; in another instant, a second Indian
was by my side, and I saw his keen knife glitter as it left the

48 A^AERATIVE OF A JOURNEV

scabbard. I had not time for thought, and was struggling with
all my might with the first savage for the recovery of my weapon,
when Captain W., and the other inmates of the tent were aroused,
and the whole matter was explained, and set at rest in a moment.
The Indians were chiefs of the tribe of Pawnee Loups, who had
come with their young men to shoot buffalo : they had paid an
evening visit to the captain, and as an act of courtesy had been
invited to sleep in the tent. I had not known of their arrival,
nor did I even suspect that Indians were in our neighborhood, so
could not control the alarm which their sudden appearance
occasioned me.

As I laid myself down, and drew my blanket around me.
Captain • W. touched me lightly with his finger, and pointed
significantly to his own person, which I perceived, — by the fire
liofht at the mouth of the tent, — to be garnished with his knife
and pistols ; I observed also that the muzzle of his rifle laid
across his breast, and that the breech was firmly grasped by one
of his legs. I took the hint ; tightened my belt, drew my gun
closely to my side, and composed myself to sleep. But the
excitement of the scene through which I had just passed,
effectually banished repose. I frequently directed my eyes
towards the dark corner, and in the midst of the shapeless mass
which occupied it, I could occasionally see the glittering orbs of
our guest shining amidst the surrounding obscurity. At length
fatigue conquered watchfulness, and I sank to sleep, dreaming of
Indians, guns, daggers, and buffalo.

Upon rising the next morning, all had lefl the tent : the men
were busied in cooking their morning meal ; kettles were hanging
upon the rude cranes, great ribs of meat were roasting before
the fires, and loading the air with fragrance, and my dreams and
midnight I'everies, and apprehensions of evil, fled upon the wings
of the bright morning, and nought remained but a feeling of
surprise that the untoward events of the night should have
disturbed my equanimity.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 49

While these thoughts were passing in my mind, my e}e
suddenly encountered the two Indians. They were squatting
upon the ground near one of the fires, and appeared to be
surveying, with the keenness of morning appetite, the fine "/mmp
ribs''' which were roasting before them. The moment they
perceived me, I received from them a quick glance of recognition :
the taller one, — my opponent of the previous night, — rose to his
feet, walked towards me, and gave me his hand with great
cordiality ; then pointed into the tent, made the motions of raising
a gun to his shoulder, taking aim, and in short repeated the
entire pantomime with great fidelity, and no little humor, laughing
the whole time as though he thought it a capital joke. Poor
fellow ! it was near proving a dear joke for him, and I almost
trembled as I recollected the eager haste with which I sought to
take the life of a fellow creature. The Indian evidently felt no
ill will towards me, and as a proof of it, proposed an exchange of
knives, to which I willingly acceded. He deposited mine, —
which had my name engraved upon the handle, — in the sheath at
his side, and walked away to his hump ribs with the air of a man
who is conscious of having done a good action. As he left me,
one of our old trappers took occasion to say, that in consequence
of this little act of savage courtesy, the Indian became my firm
friend ; and that if I ever met him again, I should be entitled to
share his hospitality, or claim his protection.

While the men were packing the horses, after breakfast, I was
again engaged with my Indian friend, I took his bow and ar-
rows in my hand, and remarked that the latter were smeared
with blood throughout : upon my expressing surprise at this, he
told me, by signs, that they had passed through the body of the
buffalo. I assumed a look of incredulity ; the countenance of
the savage brightened, and his peculiar and strange eyes actually
flashed with eagerness, as he pointed to a dead antelope lying

upon the ground about forty feet from us, and which one of

7

50 NAKKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the guard had shot near the camp in the morning. The animal
lay upon its side with the breast towards us : the bow was drawn
slightly, without any apparent effort, and the arrow flew through
the body of the antelope, and skimmed to a great distance over
the plain.

These Indians were the finest looking of any I had seen.
Their persons were tall, straight, and finely formed ; their noses
slightly aqualine, and the whole countenance expressive of high
and daring intrepidity. The face of the taller one was particu-
larly admirable ; and Gall or Spurzheim, at a single glance at his
magnificent head, would have invested him with all the noblest
qualities of the species. I know not what a physiognomist would
have said of his eyes, but they were certainly the most wonderful
eyes I ever looked into ; glittering and scintillating constantly,
like the mirror-glasses in a lamp frame, and rolling and dancing
in their orbits as though possessed of abstract volition.

The tribe to which these Indians belong, is a division of the
great Pawnee nation. There are four of these divisions or tribes,
known by the names of Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Loups, Pawnee
Republicans, and Pawnee Picts. They are all independent of
each other, governed exclusively by chiefs chosen from among
their own people, and although they have always been on terms
of intimacy and friendship, never intermarry, nor have other in-
tercourse than that of trade, or a conjunction of their forces to
attack the common enemy. In their dealings with the whites,
they are arbitrary and overbearing, chaffering about the price of
a horse, or a beaver skin, with true huckster-like eagerness and
mendacity, and seizing with avidity every unfair advantage,
which circumstances or their own craft may put in their
power.

The buffalo still continue immensely numerous in every di-
rection around, and our men kill great numbers, so that we are
in truth living upon the fat of the land, and better feeding need

ACROSS THE KOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 51

no man wish. The savory buflalo hump has sufiered no depre-
ciation since the " man without a cross" vaunted of its good
qualities to " the stranger ;" and in this, as in many other par-
ticulars, we have reahzed the truth and fidelity of Cooper's admi-
rable descriptions.

23d. — When we rose this morning, not a single buffalo, of the
many thousands that yesterday strewed the plain, was to be seen.
It seemed like magic. Where could they have gone? I asked my-
self this question again and again, but in vain. At length I ap-
plied to Richardson, who stated that they had gone to the bluifs,
but for what reason he could not tell ; he, however, had observed
their tracks bearing towards the bluffs, and was certain that they
would be found there. He and Sandsbury (another hunter) were
then about starting on a hunt to supply the camp, and I con-
cluded to accompany them ; Mr. Lee, the missionary, also joined
us, and we all rode ofT together. The party got under way about
the same time, and proceeded along the bank of the river, while
we struck off south to look for the buffalo. About an hour's
brisk trotting carried us to the bluffs, and we entered amongst
large conical hills of yellow clay, intermixed with strata of lime-
stone, but without the slightest vegetation of any kind. On the
plains which we had left, the grass was in great luxuriance, but
here not a blade of it was to be seen, and yet, as Richardson had
predicted, here were the buffalo. We had not ridden a mile
before we entered upon a plain of sand of great extent, and ob-
served ahead vast clouds of dust rising and circling in the air as
though a tornado or a whirlwind were sweeping over the earth.
" Ha !" said Richardson, " there they are ; now let us take the
wind of them, and you shall see some sport." We accordingly
went around to leeward, and, upon approaching nearer, saw the
huse animals rolling over and over in the sand with aston-
ishing agility, enveloping themselves by the exercise in a per-
fect atmosphere of dust ; occasionally two of the bulls would

52 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

spring from the ground and attack each other with amazing ad-
dress and fury, retreating for ten or twelve feet, and then rush-
ing suddenly forward, and dashing their enormous fronts together
with a shock that seemed annihilating. In these rencontres, one
of the combatants was often thrown back upon his haunches,
and tumbled sprawling upon the ground ; in which case, the vic-
tor, with true prizefighting generosity, refrained from persecut-
ing his fallen adversary, contenting himself with a hearty re-
sumption of his rolling fit, and kicking up the dust with more
than his former vigor, as if to celebrate his victory.

This appeared to be a good situation to approach and kill the
buffalo, as, by reason of the plentiful distribution of the little
clay hills, an opportunity would be afforded of successful conceal-
ment ; we separated, therefore, each taking his own course. In
a very few minutes I heard the crack of a rifle in the direction
in which Richardson had gone, and immediately after saw the
frightened animals flying from the spot. The sound reverberated
among the hills, and as it died away the herd halted to watch
and listen for its repetition. For myself, I strolled on for nearly
an hour, leading my horse, and peering over every hill, in the
hope of finding a buffalo within range, but not one could I see
that was sufiiciently near ; and when I attempted the stealthy
approach which I had seen Richardson practise with so much
success, I felt compelled to acknowledge my utter insufficiency.
I had determined to kill a bufTalo, and as I had seen it several
times done with so much apparent ease, I considered it a mere
moonshine matter, and thought I could compass it without difficulty;
but now I had attempted it, and was grievously mistaken in my
estimate of the required skill. I had several times heard the
guns of the hunters, and felt satisfied that we should not go to
camp without meat, and was on the point of altering my course
to join them, when, as I wound around the base of a little hill, I
saw about twenty buffalo lying quietly on the ground within

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 53

thirty yards of me. Now was my time. I took my picket
from my saddle, and fastened my horse to the ground as quietly as
possible, but with hands that almost failed to do their office, from
my excessive eagerness and trembling anxiety. When this was
completed, I crawled around the hill again, almost suspending
my breath from fear of alarming my intended victims, until 1
came again in full view of the unsuspecting herd. There were
so many fine animals that I was at a loss which to select ; those
nearest me appeared small and poor, and I therefore settled my
aim upon a huge bull on the outside. Just then I was attacked
with the " hull fever^'' so dreadfully, that for several minutes I
could not shoot. At length, however, I became firm and steady,
and pulled my trigger at exactly the right instant. Up sprang
the herd like lightning, and away they scoured, and my bull
with them. I was vexed, angry, and discontented ; I concluded
that I could never kill a buffalo, and was about to mount my
horse and ride off in despair, when I observed that one of the
animals had stopped in the midst of his career. I rode towards
him, and sure enough, there was my great bull trembling and
swaying from side to side, and the clotted gore hanging like
icicles from his nostrils. In a few minutes after, he fell heavily
upon his side, and I dismounted and surveyed the unwieldy
brute, as he panted and struggled in the death agony.

When the first ebullition of my triumph had subsided, I per-
ceived that my prize was so excessively lean as to be worth
nothing, and while I was exerting my whole strength in a vain
endeavor to raise the head from the ground for the purpose of
removing the tongue, the two hunters joined me, and laughed
heartily at my achievement. Like all inexperienced hunters, I
had been particular to select the largest bull in the gang, sup-
posing it to be the best, (and it proved, as usual, the poorest,)
while more than a dozen fat cows were nearer me, either of
which I miffht have killed with as little trouble.

54 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

As I had supposed, my companions had killed several animals,
but they had taken the meat of only one, and we had, therefore,
to be diligent, or the camp might suffer for provisions. It was
now past mid-day ; the weather was very warm, and the atmos-
was charged with minute particles of sand, which produced a
dryness and stiffness of the mouth and tongue, that was exceed-
ingly painful and distressing. Water was now the desideratum,
but where was it to be found 1 The arid country in which we
then were, produced none, and the Platte was twelve or fourteen
miles from us, and no buffalo in that direction, so that we
could not afford time for so trifling a matter. I found that Mr.
Lee was suffering as much as myself, although he had not
spoken of it, and I perceived that Richardson was masticating
a leaden bullet, to excite the salivary glands. Soon afterwards,
a bull was killed, and we all assembled around the carcass to
assist in the manipulations. The animal was first raised from
his side where he had lain, and supported upon his knees, with
his hoofs turned under him ; a longitudinal incision was then
made from the nape, or anterior base of the hump, and continued
backward to the loins, and a large portion of the skin from each
side removed ; these pieces of skin were placed upon the ground,
with the under surface uppermost, and the fleeces, or masses of
meat, taken Irom along the back, were laid upon them. These
fleeces, from a large animal, will weigh, perhaps, a hundred
pounds each, and comprise the whole of the hump on each side
of the vertical processes, (commonly called the hump ribs,)
which are attached to the vertebra. The fleeces are con-
sidered the choice parts of the buffalo, and here, where the game
is so abundant, nothing else is taken, if we except the tongue,
and an occasional marrow bone.

This, it must be confessed, appears like a useless and unwar-
rantable waste of the goods of Providence ; but when are men
economical, unless compelled to be so by necessity? Plei'e are

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 55

more than a thousand pounds of delicious and savory flesh,
which would delight the eyes, and gladden the heart of any
epicure in Christendom, left neglected where it fell, to feed the
ravenous maw of the wild prairie wolf, and minister to the ex-
cesses of the unclean birds of the wilderness. But I have seen
worse waste and havoc than this, and I feel my indignation rise
at the recollection. I have seen dozens of buffalo slaughtered
mei-ely for the tongues, or for practice with the rifle ; and I have
also lived to see the very perpetrators of these deeds, lean and
lank with famine, when the meanest and most worthless parts of
the poor animals they had so inhumanly slaughtered, would
have been received and eaten with humble thankfulness.

But to return to ourselves. We were all sutFei-ing from ex-
cessive thirst, and so intolerable had it at length become, that
Mr. Lee and myself proposed a gallop over to the Platte river, in
order to appease it ; but Richardson advised us not to go, as he
had just thought of a means of relieving us, which he imme-
diately proceeded to put in practice. He tumbled our mangled
buffalo over upon his side, and with his knife opened the body,
so as to expose to view the great stomach, and still crawling and
twisting entrails. The good missionary and myself stood gaping
with astonishment, and no little loathing, as we saw our hunter
plunge his knife into the distended paunch, from which gushed
the green and gelatinous juices, and then insinuate his tin pan
into the opening, and by depressing its edge, strain off the water
which was mingled with its contents.

Richardson always valued himself upon his politeness, and the
cup was therefore first offered to Mr. Lee and myself, but it is
almost needless to say that we declined the proffer, and our fea-
tures probably expressed the strong disgust which we felt, for our
companion laughed heartily before he applied the cup to his own
mouth. He then drank it to the dregs, smacking his lips, and
drawing a long breath after it, with the satisfaction of a man

56 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

taking his wine after dinner. Sansbury, the other hunter, was not
slow in following the example set before him, and we, the
audience, turned our backs upon the actors.

Before we lefl the spot, however, Richardson induced me to taste
the blood which was still fluid in the heart, and immediately
as it touched my lips, my burning thirst, aggravated by
hunger, (for I had eaten nothing that day,) got the better of
my abhorrence; I plunged my head into the reeking ven-
tricles, and drank until forced to stop for breath. I felt some-
what ashamed of assimilating myself so nearly to the brutes,
and turned my ensanguined countenance towards the mis-
sionary who stood by, but I saw no approval there : the good
man was evidently attempting to control his risibility, and
so I smiled to put him in countenance ; the roar could no
longer be restrained, and the missionary laughed until the tears
rolled down his cheeks. I did not think, until afterwards, of the
horrible ghastliness which must have characterized my smile at
that particular moment.

When we arrived at the camp in the evening, and I enjoyed
the luxury of a hearty draft of water, the effect upon my stomach
was that of a powerful emetic : the blood was violently ejected
without nausea, and I felt heartily glad to be rid of the disgust-
ing encumbrance. I never drank blood from that day.

ACKOSS TUB ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 57

CHAPTER IV.

Change in the face of the country — Unpleasant visitation — its effects — J^orth
fork of the Platte — .'? day's jotlrriey over the hills — Wormwood bushes, and
poor pasture — J\Iarmots — Rattlesnake and gopher — JVatiiralist's success
and sacrifices — ^1 sand storm — Jlild ho7-ses — Killing of a doe antelope — Bluffs
of the Platte — The chimney — " Zip JCoon," the young antelope — Birds — Feel-
ings and cogitations of a Jiaturcdist — Jlrrival at Laramie's fork — Departure
of tivo ^^free trappers'" on a summer " hunt" — Black Hills — Rough travel-
ling— Red butes — Sweet-water river, and Rock Independence — Avocets —
Wind river mountains — Rocky JMountain sheep— Adventure of one of the m^n
with a grizzly bear — Rattlesnakes — Toikome march, and arrival at Sandy
river — Suffering of the horses — Anticipated delights of the rendezvous.

On the morning of the 24th of May we forded the Platte river,
or rather its south fork, along which we had been travelling
during the previous week. On the northern side, we found the
country totally different in its aspect. Instead of the extensive
and apparently interminable green plains, the monotony of which
had become so wearisome to the eye, here was a great sandy
waste, without a single green thing to vary and enliven the
dreary scene. It was a change, however, and we were therefore
enjoying it, and remarking to each other how particularly agreea-
ble it was, when we were suddenly assailed by vast swarms of most
ferocious little black gnats ; the whole atmosphere seemed crowded
with them, and they dashed into our faces, assaulted our eyes,
ears, nostrils, and mouths, as though they were determined to
bar our passage through their territory. These little creatures
were so exceedingly minute that, singly, they were scarcely

visible ; and yet their sting caused such excessive ; pain, that for

8 '

58 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the rest of the day our men and horses were rendered ahiiost fran-
tic, the former bitterly imprecating, and the latter stamping, and
kicking, and rolling in the sand, in tremendous, yet vain, efforts
to rid themselves of their pertinacious little foes. It was rather
amusing to see the whole company with their handkerchiefs,
shirts, and coats, thrown over their heads, stemming the animated
torrent, and to hear the greenhorns cursing their tormenters, the
country, and themselves, for their foolhardiness in venturing on
the journey. When we encamped in the evening, we built fires
at the mouths of the tents, the smoke from which kept our ene-
mies at a distance, and we passed a night of tolerable comfort,
after a day of most peculiar misery.

The next morning I observed that the faces of all the men
were more or less swollen, some of them very severely, and poor
Captain W. was totally blind for two days afterwards.

25th. — We made a noon camp to-day on the north branch or
fork of the river, and in the afternoon travelled along the bank
of the stream. In about an hour's march, we came to rocks,
precipices, and cedar trees, and although we anticipated some
difficulty and toil in the passage of the heights, we felt glad to ex-
change them for the vast and wearisome prairies we had left
behind. Soon after we commenced the ascent, we struck into
an Indian path very much worn, occasionally mounting over
rugged masses of rock, and leaping wide fissures in the soil, and
sometimes picking our way over the jutting crags, directly above
the river. On the top of one of the stunted and broad spreading
cedars, a bald eagle had built its enormous nest ; and as we
descended the mountain, we saw the callow young lying within
it, while the anxious parents hovered over our heads, screaming
their alarm.

In the evening we arrived upon the plain again ; it was thickly
covered with ragged and gnarled bushes of a species of worm-
wood, (Artcmesia,) which perfumed the air, and at first was

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 59

rather agreeable. The soil was poor and sandy, and the strag-
gling blades of grass which found their way to the surface were
brown and withered. Here was a poor prospect for our horses ;
a sad contrast indeed to the rich and luxuriant prairies we had
left. On the edges of the little streams, however, we found some
tolerable pasture, and we frequently stopped during the day to
bait our poor animals in these pleasant places.

We observed here, several species of small marmots, (^Arcto-
mys,) which burrowed in the sand, and were constantly skipping
about the ground in front of our party. The short rattlesnake of
the prairies was also abundant, and no doubt derived its chief
subsistence from foraging among its playful little neighbors.
Shortly before we halted this evening, being a considerable dis-
tance in advance of the caravan, I observed a dead gopher, {Di-
plostoma,) — a small animal about the size of a rat, with large ex-
ternal cheek pouches, — lying upon the ground ; and near it a full
grown rattlesnake, also dead. The gopher was yet warm and
pliant, and had evidently been killed but a few minutes pre-
viously; the snake also gave evidence of very recent death, by a
muscular twitching of the tail, which occurs in most serpents, soon
after life is extinct. It was a matter of interest to me to ascer-
tain the mode by which these animals were deprived of life. I
therefore dismounted from my horse, and examined them care-
fully, but could perceive nothing to furnish even a clue. Neither
of them had any external or perceptible wound. The snake
had doubtless killed the quadruped, but what had killed the
snake? Their being no wound upon its body was sufficient
proof that the gopher had not used his teeth, and in no other
way could he cause death.

I was unable to solve the problem to my satisfaction, so I
pocketed the animal to prepare its skin, and rode on to the
camp.

The birds thus far have been very abundant. There is a con-

60 NARRATIVE OF A JOURXF.Y

siderable variety, and many of them have not before been seen
by naturalists. As to the plants, there seems to be no end to
them, and Mr. N. is finding dozens of new species daily. In the
other branches of science, our success has not been so great,
partly on account of the rapidity and steadiness with which we
travel, but chiefly from the difficulty, and almost impossibility, of
carrying the subjects. Already we have cast away all our use-
less and superfluous clothing, and have been content to mortify our
natural pride, to make room for our specimens. Such things as
spare waistcoats, shaving boxes, soap, and stockings, have been
ejected from our trunks, and we are content to dress, as we live, in a
style of primitive simplicity. In fact the whole appearance of our
party is sufficiently primitive ; many of the men are dressed en-
tirely in deer skins, without a single article of civilized manufac-
ture about them ; the old trappers and hunters wear their hair
flowing on their shoulders, and their large grizzled beards would
scarcely disgrace a Bedouin of the desert.

The next morning the whole camp was suddenly aroused by the
falling of all the tents. A tremendous blast swept as from a fun-
nel over the sandy plain, and in an instant precipitated our frail
habitations like webs of gossamer. The men crawled out from
under the ruins, rubbing their eyes, and, as usual, muttering im-
precations against the country and all that therein was ; it was
unusually early for a start, but we did not choose to pitch the
tents again, and to sleep without them here was next to impossi-
ble; so we took our breakfast in the open air, devouring our well
sanded provision as quickly as possible, and immediately took
to the road.

During the whole day a most terrific gale was blowing directly
in our faces, clouds of sand were driving and hurtling by us,
often with such violence as nearly to stop our progress ; and when
we halted in the evening, we could scarcely recognise each ofiier's
faces beneath their odious mask of dust and dirt.

ACROSS THE ROCKY >r JTINTAINS, ETC. 61

There have been no buffalo upon the plain to day, all the
game that we have seen, being a few elk and antelopes ; but these
of course we did not attempt to kill, as our whole and undivided
attention was required to assist our progress.

2Sth. — We fell in with a new species of game to day; — a
large band of wild horses. They were very shy, scarcely per-
mitting us to approach within rifle distance, and yet they kept
within sight of us for some hours. Several of us gave them
chase, in the hope of at least being able to approach sufficiently
near to examine them closely, but we might as well have pur-
sued the wind ; they scoured away from us with astonishing
velocity, their long manes and tails standing out almost horizon-
tally, as they sprang along before us. Occasionally they would
pause in their career, turn and look at us as we approached them,
and then, with a neigh that rang loud and high above the clatter-
ing of the hoofs, dart their light heels into the air, and fly from
us as before. We soon abandoned this wild chase, and contented
ourselves with admiring their sleek beauty at a distance.

In the afternoon, I committed an act of cruelty and wanton-
ness, which distressed and troubled me beyond measure, and
which I have ever since recollected with sorrow and compunc-
tion. A beautiful doe antelope came running and bleating after
us, as though she wished to overtake the party ; she continued
following us for nearly an hour, at times approaching within
thirty or forty yards, and standing to gaze at us as we moved
slowly on our way. I several times raised my gun to fire at
her, but my better nature as often gained the ascendency, and I
at last rode into the midst of the party to escape the temptation.
Still the doe followed us, and I finally fell into the rear, but
without intending it, and again looked at her as she trotted
behind us. At that moment, my evil genius and love of sport
triumphed ; I slid down from my horse, aimed at the poor ante-
lope, and shot a ball through her side. Under other circum-

62 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEV

stances, there would have been no cruelty in this; but here,
where better meat was so abundant, and the camp was so
plentifully supplied, it was unfeeling, heartless murder. It was
under the influence of this too late impression, that I approached
my poor victim. She was writhing in agony upon the ground,
and exertins: herself in vain efforts to draw her mangled body
farther from her destroyer ; and as I stood over her, and saw her
cast her large, sofl, black eyes upon me with an expression of
the most touching sadness, while the great tears rolled over her
face, I felt myself the meanest and most abhorrent thing in crea-
tion. But now a finishing blow would be mercy to her, and I
threw my arm around her neck, averted my face, and drove my
lona; knife throuah her bosom to the heart. I did not trust
myself to look upon her afterwards, but mounted my horse, and
galloped off to the party, with feelings such as I hope never to
experience again. For several days the poor antelope haunted
me, and I shall never forget its last look of pain and upbraiding.
The bluffs on the southern shore of the Platte, are, at this
point, exceedingly rugged, and often quite picturesque ; the for-
mation appears to be simple clay, intermixed, occasionally, with
a stratum of limestone, and one part of the bluff bears a striking
and almost startling resemblance to a dilapidated feudal castle.
There is also a kind of obelisk, standinij at a considerable dis-
tance from the bluffs, on a wide plain, towering to the height of
about two hundred feet, and tapering to a small point at the top.
This pillar is known to the hunters and trappers who tra-
verse these regions, by the name of the " chimney.^^ Here we
diverged from the usual course, leaving the bank of the river,
and entered a large and deep ravine between the enormous
bluffs.*

♦ These are called " Scott's Bluffs;" so named from an unfortunate trader, who
perished here from disease and hunger, many years ago. He was deserted by
his companions ; and the year following, his crumbling bones were found in this spot.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 63

The road was very uneven and difficult, winding from
amongst innumerable mounds six to eight feet in height, the
space between them frequently so narrow as scarcely to admit
our horses, and some of the men rode for upwards of a mile
kneeling upon their saddles. These mounds were of hard yel-
low clay, without a particle of rock of any kind, and along their
bases, and in the narrow passages, flowers of every hue were
growing. It was a most enchanting sight ; even the men
noticed it, and more than one of our matter-of-fact people ex-
claimed, beautiful, beautiful ! Mr. N. was here in his glory.
He rode on ahead of the company, and cleared the passages with
a trembling and eager hand, looking anxiously back at the
approaching party, as though he feared it would come ere he
had finished, and tread his lovely prizes under foot.

The distance through the ravine is about three miles. We
then crossed several beautiful grassy knolls, and descending to
the plain, struck the Platte again, and travelled along its bank.
Here one of our men caught a young antelope, which he brought
to the camp upon his saddle. It was a beautiful and most deli-
cate little creature, and in a few days became so taniC as to re-
main with the camp without being tied, and to drink, from a tin
cup, the milk which our good missionaries spared from their own
scanty meals. The men christened it " Zip Coo7i" and it soon
became familiar with its name, running to them when called, and
exhibiting many evidences of affection and attachment. It be-
came a great favorite with every one. A little pannier of willows
was made for it, which was packed on the back of a mule, and
when the camp moved in the mornings, little Zip ran to his
station beside his long-eared hack, bleating with impatience until
some one came to assist him in mounting.

On the afternoon of the 31st, we came to green trees and
bushes again, and the sight of them was more cheering than can

64 NARBATIVE OF A JOUEXEY

be conceived, except by persons who have travelled for weeks
without beholding a green thing, save the grass under their feet.
We encamped in the evening in a beautiful grove of cottonwood
trees, along the edge of which ran the Platte, dotted as usual
with numerous islands.

In the morning, Mr. N. and myself were up before the dawn,
strolling through the umbrageous forest, inhaling the fresh,
bracing air, and making the echoes ring with the report of our
gun, as the lovely tenants of the grove flew by dozens before us.
I think I never before saw so great a variety of birds within the
same space. All were beautiful, and many of them quite new to
me ; and after we had spent an hour amongst them, and my
game bag was teeming with its precious freight, I was still loath
to leave the place, lest I should not have procured specimens of
the whole.

None but a naturalist can appreciate a naturalist's feelings —
his delight amounting to ecstacy — when a specimen such as he
has never before seen, meets his eye, and the sorrow and grief
Avhich he feels when he is compelled to* tear himself from a spot
abounding with all that he has anxiously and unremittingly
sought for.

This was peculiarly my case upon this occasion. We had
been loncp travelling over a sterile and barren tract, where the
lovely denizens of the forest could not exist, and I had been daily
scanning the great extent of the desert, for some little oasis such
as I had now found ; here was my wish at length gratified, and
yet the caravan would not halt for me ; I must turn my back
upon the El Dorado of my fond anticipations, and hurry forward
over the dreary wilderness which lay beyond.

What valuable and highly interesting accessions to science
might not be made by a party, composed exclusively of natural-
ists, on a journey through this rich and unexplored region ! The
botanist, the geologist, the mamalogist, the ornithologist, and

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAIiVS, ETC. 05

the entomologist, would find a rich and almost inexhaustible
field for the prosecution of their inquiries, and the result of such
an expedition would be to add most materially to our knowledge
of the wealth and resources of our country, to furnish us with
new and important facts relative to its structure, organization,
and natural productions, and to complete the fine native collec-
tions in our already extensive museums.

On the 1st of June, we arrived at Laramie's fork of the
Platte, and crossed it without much difficulty.

Here two of our " free trappers" left us for a summer " hunt"
in the rugged Black Hills. These men joined our party at Inde-
dependence, and have been travelling to this point with us for
the benefit of our escort. Trading companies usually encourage
these free trappers to join them, both for the strength which they
add to the band, and that they may have the benefit of their
generally good hunting qualities. Thus are both parties accom-
modated, and no obligation is felt on either side.

I confess I felt somewhat sad when I reflected upon the pos-
sible fate of the two adventurous men who had left us in the
midst of a savage wilderness, to depend entirely upon their
unassisted strength and hardihood, to procure the means of sub-
sistence and repel the aggression of the Indian.

Their expedition will be fraught with stirring scenes, with
peril and with strange adventure ; but they think not of this,
and they care not for it. They are only two of the many scores
who annually subject themselves to the same difficulties and
dangers ; they see their friends return unscathed, and laden
with rich and valuable furs, and if one or two should have
perished by Indian rapacity, or fallen victims to their own daring
and fool-hardy spirit, they mourn the loss of their brethren who
have not returned, and are only the more anxious to pursue the
same track in order to avenge them.

On the 2d, we struck a range of high and stony mountains,

9

66 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

called the Black Hills. The general aspect here, was dreary
and forbidding ; the soil was intersected by deep and craggy
fissures ; rock jutted over rock, and precipice frowned over
precipice in frightful, and apparently endless, succession. Soon
after we commenced the ascent, we experienced a change in the
temperature of the air ; and towards mid-day, when we had
arrived near the summit, our large blanket capeaus, — which in the
morning had been discarded as uncomfortable, — were drawn
tightly around us, and every man was shivering in his saddle as
though he had an ague fit. The soil here is of a deep reddish or
ferruginous hue, intermixed with green sand; and on the heights,
pebbles of chalcedony and agate are abundant.

We crossed, in the afternoon, the last and steepest spur of this
chain, winding around rough and stony precipices, and along
the extreme verges of tremendous ravines, so dangerous looking
that we were compelled to dismount and lead our horses.

On descending to the plain, we saw again the north fork of
the Platte, and were glad of an opportunity of encamping. Our
march to-day has been an unusually wearisome one, and many
of our loose horses are bruised and lame.

7th. — The country has now become more level, but the prairie
is barren and inhospitable looking to the last degree. The
twisted, aromatic wormwood covers and extracts the strength
from the burnt and arid soil. The grass is dry and brown, and
our horses are suffering extremely for want of food. Occasion-
ally, however, a spot of lovely green appears, and here we allow
our poor jaded friends to halt, and roam without their riders, and
their satisfaction and pleasure is expressed by many a joyous
neigh, and many a heart-felt roll upon the verdant sward.

In the afternoon, we arrived at the " Red Butes," two or three
brown-red cliffs, about two thousand feet in height. This is a
remarkable point in the mountain route. One of these cliffs
terminates a long, lofty, wooded ridge, which has bounded our

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 67

southern view for the past two days. The summits of the cliffs
are covered with patches of snow, and the contrast of the
dazzling white and brick-red produces a very pretty effect.

The next day, we left the Platte river, and crossed a wide,
sandy desert, dry and desolate ; and on the 9th, encamped at
noon on the banks of the Sweet-water. Here we found a large
rounded mass of granite, about fifty feet high, called Rock Inde-
pendence. Like the Red Butes, this rock is also a rather re-
markable point in the route. On its smooth, perpendicular sides,
we see carved the names of most of the mountain bourgeois,
with the dates of their arrival. We observed those of the two
Sublette's, Captains Bonneville, Serre, Fontinelle, &c., and after
leaving our own, and taking a hearty, but hasty lunch in the
shade of the rock, and a draught from the pure and limpid
stream at its base, we pursued our journey.

The river is here very narrow, often only twelve or fifteen
feet wide, shallow, and winding so much, that during our march,
to-day, we crossed it several times, in order to pursue a straight
course. The banks of the stream are clothed with the most
luxuriant pasture, and our invaluable dumb friends appear per-
fectly happy.

We saw here great numbers of a beautiful brown and white
avocet, (the Recurvirostra americana of ornithologists.) These
fine birds were so tame as to allow a very near approach, run-
ning slowly before our party, and scarcely taking wing at the
report of a gun. They frequent the marshy plains in the neigh-
borhood of the river, and breed here.

On the 10th, about ninety miles to the west, we had a striking
view of the Wind-river mountains. They are almost wholly of
a dazzling whiteness, being covered thickly with snow, and
the lofty peaks seem to blend themselves with the dark clouds
which hang over them. This chain gives rise to the sources of
the Missouri, the Colorado of the west, and Lewis' river of the

68 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEV

Columbia, and is the highest land on the continent of North
America.

We saw, to-day, a small flock of the hairy slieep of the
Rocky Mountains, the big horn of the hunters, [Ovis montana.)
We exerted ourselves in vain to shoot them. They darted from
us, and hid themselves amongst the inaccessible cliffs, so that
none but a chamois hunter might pretend to reach them.
Richardson says that he has frequently killed them, but lie
admits that it is dangerous and wearisome sport ; and when good
beef is to be found upon the plains, men are not anxious to risk
their necks for a meal of mutton.

In the afternoon, one of our men had a somewhat perilous
adventure with a grizzly bear. He saw the animal crouching
his huge frame in some willows which skirted the river, and
approaching on horseback to within twenty yards, fired upon
him. The bear was only slightly wounded by the shot, and with
a fierce growl of angry malignity, rushed from his cover, and
gave chase. The horse happened to be a slow one, and for the
distance of a half a mile, the race was hard contested ; the bear
frequently approaching so near the terrified animal as to snap at
his heels, while the equally terrified rider, — who had lost his hat
at the start, — used whip and spur with the most frantic diligence,
frequently looking behind, from an influence which he could not
resist, at his rugged and determined foe, and shrieking in an
agony of fear, " shoot him, shoot him ?" The man, who was
one of the greenhorns, happened to be about a mile behind the
main body, either from the indolence of his horse, or his own
carelessness; but as he approached the party in his desperate
flight, and his lugubrious cries reached the ears of the men in
front, about a dozen of them rode to his assistance, and soon
succeeded in diverting the attention of his pertinacious foe. After
he had received the contents of all the guns, he fell, and was soon
dispatched. The man rode in among his fellows, pale and

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 69

haggard from overwrought fecUngs, and was probably effectually
cured of a propensity for meddling with grizzly bears.

A small striped rattlesnake is abundant on these plains : — it is
a different species from our common one at home, but is equally
malisnant and venomous. The horses are often startled by them,
and dart aside with intuitive fear when their note of warning is
sounded in the path.

12i/t. — The plains of the Sweet-water at this point, — latitude
43° 6', longitude 110° 30', — are covered with little salt pools,
the edo-es of which are encrusted with alkaline efflorescences, look-
ing like borders of snow. The rocks in the vicinity are a loose,
fine-grained sandstone, the strata nearly horizontal, and no
organic remains have been discovered. We have still a view of
the lofty Wind-river mountains on our right hand, and they
have for some days served as a guide to determine our course.
On the plain, we passed several huge rhomboidal masses of rock,
standing alone, and looking, at a little distance, like houses with
chimneys. The freaks of nature, as they are called, have often
astonished us since we have been journeying in the wilderness.
We have seen, moddled without art, representations of almost
all the most stupendous works of man ; and how do the loftiest
and most perfect creations of his wisdom and ingenuity sink into
insignificance by the comparison. Noble castles, with turrets,
embrazures, and loop holes, with the drawbridge in front, and the
moat surrounding it : behind, the humble cottages of the subser-
vient peasantry, and all the varied concomitants of such a scene,
are so strikingly evident to the view, that it requires but little
stretch of fancy to imagine that a race of antediluvian giants may
here have swayed their iron sceptre, and left behind the
crumbling palace and the tower, to tell of their departed glory.

On the 14th, we left the Sweet- water, and proceeded in a
south-westerly direction to Sandy river, a branch of the Colorado
of the west. We arrived here at about 9 o'clock in the evening.

70 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNF.Y

after a hard and most toilsome march for both man and beast.
We found no water on the route, and not a single blade of grass
for our horses. Many of the poor animals stopped before night,
and resolutely refused to proceed ; and others with the remarkable
sagacity, peculiar to them, left the track in defiance of those who
drove and guided them, sought and found water, and spent the
night in its vicinity. The band of missionaries, with their horses
and horned cattle, halted by the way, and only about half the
men of the party accompanied us to our encampment on Sandy.
We were thus scattered along the route for several miles ; and
if a predatory band of Indians had then found us, we should have
fallen an easy prey.

The next morning by about 10 o'clock all our men and horses
had joined us, and, in spite of the fatigues of the previous day,
we were all tolerably refreshed, and in good spirits. Towards
noon we got under way, and proceeded seven or eight miles
down the river to a spot where we found a little poor pasture for
our horses. Here we remained until the next morning, to recruit.
I found here a beautiful new species of mocking bird,* which I
shot and prepared. Birds are, however, generally scarce, and
there is here very little of interest in any department of natural
history. We are also beginning to suffer somewhat for food :
buffalo are rarely seen, the antelopes are unusually shy, and the
life of our little favorite, " Zip," has been several times menaced.
I believe, however, that his keeper, from sheer fondness, would
witness much greater suffering in the camp, ere he would con-
sent to the sacrifice of his playful little friend.

IGth. — We observed a hoar frost and some thin ice, this
morning at sunrise ; but at mid-day, the thermometer stood at
82°. We halted at noon, after making about fifteen miles, and
dined. Saw large herds of buffalo on the plains of Sandy river,

♦ This is the mountain mocking binl, {Orpheus montanus,) described in the
Appendix.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 71

o-razino- in every direction on the short and dry gi'ass. Domes-
tic cattle would certainly starve here, and yet the bison exists,
and even becomes fat ; a striking instance of the wonderful
adaptation of Providence.

17^^. — We had yesterday a cold rain, the first which has
fallen in our track for several weeks. Our vicinity to the high
mountains of Wind river will perhaps account for it. To-day at
noon, the mercury stood at 92° in the shade, but there being a
strong breeze, we did not suffer from heat.

Our course was still down the Sandy river, and we are now
looking forward with no little pleasure to a rest of two or more
weeks at the mountain rendezvous on the Colorado. Here we
expect to meet all the mountain companies who left the States
last spring, and also the trappers who come in from various
parts, with the furs collected by them during the previous year.
All will be mirth and jollity, no doubt, but the grand deside-
ratum with some of us, is to allow our horses to rest their tired
limbs and exhausted strength on the rich and verdant plains of
the Siskadee. At our camp this evening, our poor horses were
compelled to fast as heretofore, there being absolutely nothing for
them to eat. Some of the famished animals attempted to allay
their insatiable cravings, by cropping the dry and bitter tops of
the wormwood with which the plain is strewed.

We look forward to brighter days for them ere long ; soon
shall they sport in the green pastures, and rest and plenty shall
compensate for their toils and privations.

72 INAKUATIVK OF A JOURNEY

CHAPTER V.

,1rrival at the Colorado — The author in difficulty — Loss of a journal, and
advice to travelling tyros— The rendezvous — SMotlei/ groups infesting it —
Rum drinking, swearing, and other accomplishments in vogne — Description
of the camp — Troid and grayling — Mundauce of game — Cock of the plains —
Departure from the rendezvous — ^in accession to the band — ..^ renegado

Blackfoot chief Captain Stetuart and JMr. Jlshworth — JMuddy creek —

Jtfore carousing — Mundance of trout — Bear river — A hard day''s march —
Volcanic country — IJ'hite claii pits and ''Beer spring" — Bare birds and com-
monbirds — Mr. Thomas J\lc Kay — Rough and arid country — JMeeting -with
Captain Bonneville's party — Captains Stewart and Jl'yeth's visit to the
lodge of the "bald chief" — Blackfoot river — Adventure with a grizzly
bear — Death of '• Zip JCoon^' — Young grizzly bears and buffalo calves — A
Blackfoot Indian — Dangerous experiment of JMcKay — the three " Tc/ons" —
Large trout — Departare of our Indian companions — Shoshone river — Site of
" Fori Hall" — Preparations for a buffalo hunt.

June 19</t. — We arrived to-day on the Green river, Siskadee,
or Colorado of the west, — a beautiful, clear, deep, and rapid
stream, v/hich receives the waters of Sand}', — and encamped
upon its eastern bank. After making a hasty meal, as it was
yet early in the day, I sallied forth with my gun, and roamed
about the neighborhood for several hours in quest of birds. On
returning, towards evening, I found that the whole company had
left the spot, the place being occupied only by a few hungry
wolves, ravens, and magpies, the invariable gleaners of a for-
saken camp.

I could not at first understand the meaning of all I saw. I
thought the desertion strange, and was preparing to make the
best of it, when a quick and joyful neigh sounded in the bushes
near mc, and I recognized the voice of my favorite horse. I

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 73

found him carefully tied, with the saddle, &c., lying near him.
I had not the least idea of where the company had gone, but I
knew that on the rich, alluvial banks of the river, the trail of the
horses would be distinct enough, and I determined to place my
dependence, in a great measure, upon the sagacity of my excel-
lent dumb friend, satisfied that he would take me the right
course. I accordingly mounted, and off we went at a speed
which I found some difficulty in restraining. About half an
hour's hard ridinw broua-ht us to the edsie of a laree branch of
the stream, and I observed that the horses had here entered. I
noticed other tracks lower down, but supposed them to have
been made by the wanderings of the loose animals. Here then
seemed the proper fording place, and with some little hesitation,
I allowed my nag to enter the water ; we had proceeded but a
few yards, however, when down he went off a steep bank, far
beyond his depth. This was somewhat disconcerting; but there
was but one thing to be done, so I turned my horse's head against
the swift current, and we went snorting and blowing for the
opposite shore. We arrived at length, though in a sadly wet
and damaged state, and in a few minutes after, came in view of
the new camp.

Captain W. explained to me that he had heard of good pasture
here, and had concluded to move immediately, on account of the
horses ; he informed me, also, that he had crossed the stream
about fifty yards below the point where I had entered, and had,
found an excellent ford. I did not regret my adventure, how-
ever, and was congratulating myself upon my good fortune in
arriving so seasonably, when, upon looking to my saddle, I dis-
covered that my coat was missing. I had felt uncomfortably
warm when I mounted, and had removed the coat and attached it
carelessly to the saddle ; the rapidity of the current had diseng-
aged it, and it was lost for ever. The coat itself was not of much

consequence after the hard service it had seen, but it contained the

10

74 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

second volume of my journal, a pocket compass, and other arti-
cles of essential value to me. I would gladly have relinquished
every thing the garment held, if I could but have recovered the
book ; and although I returned to the river, and searched
assiduously until night, and offered large rewards to the men, it
could not be found.

The journal commenced with our arrival at the Black Hills,
and contained some observations upon the natural productions of
the country, which to me, at least, were of some importance;
as well as descriptions of several new species of birds, and
notes regarding their habits, &c., which cannot be replaced.

I would advise all tourists, who journey by land, never to
carry their itineraries upon their persons; or if they do, let them
be attached by a cord to the neck, and worn under the clothing.
A convenient and safe plan would probably be, to have the book
deposited in a close pocket of leather, made on the inner side of
the saddle-wing ; it would thus be always at hand, and if a deep
stream were to be passed, the trouble of drying the leaves would
not be a very serious matter.

In consequence of remaining several hours in wet clothes,
after being heated by exercise, I rose the next morning with so
much pain, and stiffness of the joints, that I could scarcely move.
But notwithstanding this, I was compelled to mount my horse
with the others, and to ride steadily and rapidly for eight hours.
I suffered intensely during this ride ; every step of my horse
seemed to increase it, and induced constant sickness and retch-
ing.

When we halted, I was so completely exhausted, as to require
assistance in dismounting, and shortly after, sank into a state of
insensibility from which I did not recover for several hours ^
Then a violent fever commenced, alternating for two whole days,
with sickness and pain. I think I never was more unwell in my

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 75

life ; and if I had been at home, lying on a feather bed instead of
the cold ground, I should probably have fancied myself an inva-
lid for weeks.*

22d. — We are now lying at the rendezvous. W. Sublette,
Captains Serre, Fitzpatrick, and other leaders, with their com-
panies, are encamped about a mile from us, on the same plain,
and our own camp is crowded with a heterogeneous assemblage
of visitors. The principal of these are Indians, of the Ncz
Perce, Banneck and Shoshone tribes, who come with the furs
and peltries which they have been collecting at the risk of their
lives during the past winter and spring, to trade for ammunition,
trinkets, and " fire water." There is, in addition to these, a
great variety of personages amongst us; most of them calling
themselves white men, French-Canadians, half-breeds, &c.,
their color nearly as dark, and their manners wholly as wild, as
the Indians with whom they constantly associate. These peo-
ple, with their obstreperous mirth, their whooping, and howling,
and quarrelling, added to the mounted Indians, who are con-
stantly dashing into and through our camp, yelling like fiends,
the barking and baying of savage wolf-dogs, and the incessant
cracking of rifles and carbines, render our camp a perfect bed-
lam. A more unpleasant situation for an invalid could scarcely
be conceived. I am confined closely to the tent with illness, and
and am compelled all day to listen to the hiccoughing jargon of
drunken traders, the sacre and foutre of Frenchmen run wild,
and the swearing and screaming of our own men, who are
scarcely less savage than the rest, being heated by the detestable
liquor which circulates freely among them.

It is very much to be regretted that at times like the present,
there should be a positive necessity to allow the men as much
rum as they can drink, but this course has been sanctioned and

* I am indchtcil to the kindness of my companion and friend, Frofessoi- Nuttajl,
for supplying, in a great measure, tiic deficiency occasioned by the loss of my
journal.

70 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

practised by all leaders of parties who have hitherto visited these
regions, and reform cannot be thought of now. The principal
liquor in use here is alcohol diluted with water. It is sold to the
men at three dollars the pint ! Tobacco, of very inferior qual-
ity, such as could be purchased in Philadelphia at about ten cents
per pound, here brings two dollars ! and everything else in pro-
portion. There is no coin in circulation, and these articles are
therefore paid for by the independent mountain-men, in beaver
skins, buffalo robes, &c. ; and those who are hired to the compa-
nies, have them charged against their wages.

I was somewhat amused to-day by observing one of our newly
hired men enter the tent, and order, with the air of a man who
knew he would not be refused, twenty dollars' worth of rum, and
ten dollars worth of sugar, to treat two of his companions who
were about leaving the rendezvous !

30fA. — Our camp here is a most lovely one in every respect,
and as several days have elapsed since v/e came, and I am con-
valescent, I can roam about the country a little and enjoy it.
The pasture is rich and very abundant, and it docs our hearts
good to witness the satisfaction and comfort of our poor jaded
horses. Our tents are pitched in a pretty little valley or indenta-
tion in the plain, surrounded on all sides by low bluffs of yellow
clay. Near us flows the clear deep water of the Siskadee, and
beyond, on every side, is a wide and level prairie, interrupted only
by some gigantic peaks of mountains and conical butes in the
distance. The river, here, contains a great number of large trout,
some grayling, and a small narrow-mouthed white fish, resembling
a herring. They are all frequently taken with the hook, and, the
trout particularly, afford excellent sport to the lovers of angling.
Old Izaac Walton would be in his glory here, and the precautio^nary
measures which he so strongly recommends in approaching a
trout stream, he would not need to practise, as the fish is not

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 77

shy, and bites quickly and eagerly at a grasshopper or min-
now.

Buffalo, antelopes, and elk are abundant in the vicinity, and
we are therefore living well. We have seen also another kind
of game, a beautiful bird, the size of a half grown turkey, called
the cock of the plains, ( Tetrao uropkasianus.) We first met with
this noble bird on the plains, about two days' journey east of
Green river, in flocks, or packs, of fifteen or twenty, and so ex-
ceedingly tame as to allow an approach to within a few feet, run-
ning before our horses like domestic fowls, and not unfrequently
hopping under their bellies, while the men amused themselves
by striking out their feathers with their riding whips. When
we first saw them, the temptation to shoot was irresistible ; the
guns were cracking all around us, and the poor grouse falling
in every direction ; but what was our disappointment, when, upon
roasting them nicely before the fire, we found them so strong and
bitter as not to be eatable. From this time the cock of the
plains was allowed to I'oam free and unmolested, and as he has
failed to please our palates, we are content to admire the
beauty of his plumage, and the grace and spirit of his atti-
tudes.

July 2d. — We bade adieu to the rendezvous this morning;
packed up our moveables, and journied along the bank of the
river. Our horses are very much recruited by the long rest
and good pasture which they have enjoyed, and, like their mas-
ters, are in excellent spirits.

During our stay at the rendezvous, many of us looked anx-
iously for letters from our families, which we expected by the
later caravans, but we were all disappointed. For myself, T have
received but one since I left my home, but this has been my so-
lace through many along and dreary journey. Many a time, while
pacing my solitary round as night-guard in the wilderness, have I

78

NARRATIVE OP A JOtJRNEY

sat myself down, and stirring up the dying embers of the camp fire,
taken the precious little memento from my bosom, undrawn the
string of the leathern sack which contained it, and poured over
the dear characters, till my eyes would swim with sweet, but sad
recollections, then kissing the inanimate paper, return it to its
sanctuary, tighten up my pistol belt, shoulder my gun, and with
a quivering voice, swelling the ''alVsxcelV upon the night
breeze, resume my slow and noiseless tramp around my sleeping
companions.

Many of our men have left us, and joined the returning compa-
nies, but we have had an accession to our party of about thirty
Indians ; Flat-heads, Nez Perces, &c., with their wives, children,
and dogs. Without these our camp would be small ; they will
probably travel with us until we arrive on Snake river, and pass
over the country where the most danger is to be apprehended
from their enemies, the Black-feet.

Some of the women in this party, particularly those of the
Nez Perce nation, are rather handsome, and their persons are
decked off in truly savage taste. Their dresses of deer skin
are profusely ornamented with beads and porcupine quills ; huge
strings of beads are hung around their necks, and their saddles
are garnished with dozens of little hawk's bells, which jingle and
make music for them as they travel along. Several of these women
have little children tied to their backs, sewed up papoose fashion,
only the head being seen; as they jolt along the road, we not un-
frequently hear their voices ringing loud and shrill above the
music of the bells. Other little fellows who have ceased to re-
quire the maternal contributions, are tied securely on other horses,
and all their care seems to be to sleep, which they do most perti-
naciously in spite of jolting, noise, and clamor. There is among
this party, a Blackfoot chief, a renegado from his tribe, who
sometime since killed the principal chief of his nation, and was

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 79

in consequence under the necessity of absconding. He has now
joined the party of his hereditary foes, and is prepared to fight
against his own people and kindred. He is a fine, warlike
looking fellow, and although he takes part in all the war-songs,
and sham-battles of his adopted brothers, and whoops, and howls
as loud as the best of them, yet it is plain to perceive that he is
distrusted and disliked. All men, whether, civilized or savage,
honorable, or otherwise, detest and scorn a traitor !

We were joined at the rendezvous by a Captain Stewart, an
English gentleman of noble family, who is ti-avelling for amuse-
ment, and in search of adventure. He has already been a year
in the mountains, and is now desii'ous of visiting the lower coun-
try, from which he may probably take passage to England by
sea. Another Englishman, a young man, named Ashworth,
also attached himself to our party, for the same purpose.

Our course lay along the bank of Ham's fork, through a
hilly and stony, but not a rocky country ; the willow flourished
on the margin of the stream, and occasionally the eye was re-
lieved, on scanning the plain, by a pretty clump of cottonwood
or poplar trees. The cock of the plains is very abundant hei'e,
and our pretty little summer yellow bird, (Sylvia cestiva,) one of
our most common birds at home, is our constant companion.
How natural sounds his little monotonous stave, and how it seems
to carry us back to the dear scenes for which we have exchanged
the wild and pathless wilderness !

4<7j. — We left Ham's fork this morning, — now diminished to
a little purling brook, — and passed across the hills in a north-west-
erly direction for about twenty miles, when we struck Muddy
creek. This is a branch of Bear river, which empties into the Salt
lake, or "lake Bonneville," as it has been lately named, for what
reason I know not. Our camp here, is a beautiful and most de-
lightful one. A large plain, like a meadow, of rich, waving

80 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

grass, with a lovely little stream running through the midst, high
hills, capped with shapely cedars on two sides, and on the others
an immense plain, with snow clad mountains in the distance.
This being a memorable day, the liquor kegs were opened, and
the men allowed an abundance. We, therefore, soon had a
renewal of the coarse and brutal scenes of the rendezvous.
Some of the bacchanals called for a volley in honor of the day,
and in obedience to the order, some twenty or thirty " happy"
ones reeled into line, with their muzzles directed to every point
of the compass, and when the word " fire" was given, we who
were not " happy" had to lie flat upon the ground to avoid the
bullets which were careering through the camp.

In this little stream, the trout are more abundant than we have
yet seen them. One of our sober men took, this afternoon,
upwards of thirty pounds. These fish would probably average
fifi;een or sixteen inches in length, and weigh three-quarters of a
pound ; occasionally, however, a much larger one is seen.

bth. — We travelled about twenty miles this day, over a country
abounding in lofty hills, and early in the afternoon arrived on
Bear river, and encamped. This is a fine stream of about one
hundred and fifty feet in width, with a moveable, sandy bottom.
The grass is dry and poor, the willow abounds along the banks,
and at a distance marks the course of the stream, which
meanders through an alluvial plain of four to six miles in width.
At the distance of about one hundred miles from this point, the
Bear river enters the Salt lake, a large body of salt water, with-
out outlet, in which there is so large an island as to afford streams
of fresh water for goats and other animals living upon it.

On the next day we crossed the river, which we immediately
left, to avoid a great bend, and passed over some lofty ranges of
hills and through the rugged and stony valleys between them ;
the wind was blowing a gale right ahead, and clouds of dust were
flying in our faces, so that at the end of the day, our coun-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 81

tenances were disguised as they were on the plains of the Platte.
The march to-day has been a most laborious and fatiguing one
both for man and beast ; we have travelled steadily from morning
till night, not stopping at noon ; our poor horses' feet are
becoming very much worn and sore, and when at length we
struck Bear river again and encamped, the wearied animals re-
fused to eat, stretching themselves upon the ground and falling
asleep from very exhaustion.

Trout, grayling, and a kind of char are very abundant here —
the first very large. The next day we travelled but twelve
miles, it being impossible to urge our worn-out horses farther.
Near our camp this evening we found some large gooseberries
and currants, and made a hearty meal upon them. They were
to us peculiarly delicious. We have lately been living entirely
upon dried buffalo, without vegetables or bread ; even this is now
failing us, and we are upon short allowance. Game is very
scarce, our hunters cannot find any, and our Indians have killed
but two buffalo for several days. Of this small stock they would
not spare us a mouthful, so it is probable we shall soon be hungry.

The alluvial plain here presents many unequivocal evidences of
volcanic action, being thickly covered with masses of lava, and
high walls and "regular columns of basalt appear in many places.
The surrounding country is composed, as usual, of high hills and
narrow, stony valleys between them ; the hills are thickly covered
with a growth of small cedars, but on the plain, nothing
flourishes but the everlasting wormwood, or sage as it is here
called. '

Our encampment on the 8th, was near what are called the

" White-clay pits," still on Bear river. The soil is soft chalk,

white and tenacious ; and in the vicinity are several springs

of strong supercarbonated water, which bubble up with all the

activity of artificial fountains. The taste was very agreeable

11

fi2 NAURATIVE OF A JOURNEY

and refreshing, resembling Saratoga water, but not so saline.
The whole plain to the hills, is covered with little mounds formed
of calcareous sinter, having depressions on their summits, from
which once issued streams of water. The extent of these erup-
tions, at some former period, must have been very great. At
about half a mile distant, is an eruptive thermal spring of the
temperature of 90°, and near this is an opening in the earlh from
which a stream of gas issues without water.

In a thicket of common red cedars, near our camp, I found,
and procured several specimens of two beautiful and rare birds
which I had never before seen — the Lewis' woodpecker and
Clark's crow, [Picus torquatus and Corvus columbianus.)

We remained the whole of the following day in camp to
recruit our horses, and a good opportunity was thus afforded me
of inspecting all the curiosities of this wonderful region, and of
procuring some rare and valuable specimens of birds. Three of
our hunters sallied forth in pursuit of several buffalo whose tracks
had been observed by some of the men, and we were overjoyed
to see them return in the evening loaded with the meat and
marrow bones of two animals which they had killed.

We saw here the whooping crane, and white pelican, numerous ;
and in the small streams near the bases of the hills, the common
canvass-back duck, shoveller, and black duck, (Anas obscura,)
were feeding their voung.

We were this evening visited by Mr. Thomas McKay,* an
Indian trader of some note in the mountains. He is a step-son of
Dr. McLaughlin, the chief factor at Fort Vancouver, on the

• This is the son of Mr. Alexander McKay, who was massacred bj- the Indians
of the N. W. Coast on board the ship " Tonquin," an account of which is given in
Irving's " Astoria." I have often heard McKay speak of the tragical fate of his
parent, and with the bitter animosity and love of revenge inherited from his Indian
mother, I have heard him declare that he will yet be known on the coast as the
avenger of blood.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 83

Columbia, and the leader of a party of Canadians and Indians,
now on a hunt in the vicinity. This party is at present in our
rear, and Mr. McKay has come ahead in order to join us, and
keep us company until we reach Portneuf river, where we intend
building a fort.

10^/t. — We were moving early this morning : our horses were
very much recruited, and seemed as eager as their masters to travel
on. It is astonishing how soon a horse revives, and overcomes the
lassitude consequent upon fatigue, when he is allowed a day's
rest upon tolerable pasture. Towards noon, however, after
encountering the rough lava-strewn plain for a few hours, they be-
came sufficiently sobered to desist from all unnecessary curvetting
and prancing, and settled down into a very matter-of-fact trudge^
better suited to the country and to the work which they have yet
to do.

Soon after v/e left, we crossed one of the high and stony hills
by which our late camp is suri'ounded ; then making a gentle
descent, we came to a beautiful and very fertile plain. This is,
however, very different from the general face of the country ; in
a short time, after passing over the rich prairie, the same dry
aridity and depauperation prevailed, which is almost universal
west of the mountains. On the wide plain, we observed large
sunken spots, some of them of great extent, surrounded by
walls of lava, indicating the existence, at some very ancient date,
of active craters. These eruptions have probably been ante-
diluvian, or have existed at a period long anterior to the present
order of creation. On the side of the hills are high walls of lava
and basaltic dykes, and many large and dark caves are formed
by the juxtaposition of the enormous masses.

Early in the afternoon we passed a large party of white men,
encamped on the lava plain near one of the small streams.
Horses were tethered all around, and men were lolling about
playing games of cards, and loitering through the camp, as

84 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

though at a loss for employment. We soon ascertained it to be
Captain Bonneville's company resting after the fatigues of a long
march. Mr. Wyeth and Captain Stewart visited the lodge of the
" bald chief," and our party proceeded on its march. The
difficulties of the route seemed to increase as we progressed,
until at length we found ourselves wedged in among huge blocks
of lava and columns of basalt, and were forced, most reluctantly,
to retrace our steps for several miles, over the impediments which
we had hoped we were leaving for ever behind us. We had
nearly reached Bonneville's camp again, when Captains Wyeth
and Stewart joined us, and we struck into another path which
proved more tolerable. Wyeth gave us a rather amusing
account of his visit to the worthy captain. He and Captain
Stewart were received very kindly by the veteran, and every
delicacy that the lodge affijrded was brought forth to do them
honor. Among the rest, was some methiglen or diluted alcohol
sweetened with honey, which the good host had concocted ; this
dainty beverage was set before them, and the thirsty guests
were not slow in taking advantage of the invitation so obligingly
given. Draught after draught of the precious liquor disappeared
down the throats of the visiters, until the anxious, but still com-
plaisant captain, began to grow uneasy.

" I beg you will help yourselves, gentlemen," said the host,
with a smile wliich he intended to express the utmost urbanity,
but which, in spite of himself, had a certain ghastliness about it.

" Thank you, sir, we will do so freely," replied the two
worthies, and away went the methiglen as before.

Cup after cup was drained, until the hollow sound of the keg
indicated that its contents were nearly exhausted, when the
company rose, and thanking the kind host for his noble enter-
tainment, were bowed out of the tent with all the polite formality
which the accomplished captain knows so well how to assume.

Towards evening, we struck Blackfoot river, a small, sluggish,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 85

stagnant stream, heading with the waters of a rapid rivulet
passed yesterday, which empties into the Bear river. This
stream passes in a north-westerly direction through a valley of
about six miles in width, covered with quagmires, through which
we had great difficulty in making our way. As we approached
our encampment, near a small grove of willows, on the margin
of the river, a tremendous grizzly bear rushed out upon us.
Our horses ran wildly in every direction, snorting with terror,
and became nearly unmanageable. Several balls were instantly
fired into him, but they only seemed to increase his fury. After
spending a moment in rending each wound, (their invariable
practice,) he selected the person who happened to be nearest, and
darted after him, but before he proceeded far, he was sure to be
stopped again by a ball from another quarter. In this way he
was driven about amongst us for perhaps fifteen minutes, at
times so near some of the horses, that he received several severe
kicks from them. One of the pack horses was fairly fastened upon
by the terrific claws of the brute, and in the terrified animal's
efforts to escape the dreaded gripe, the pack and saddle were
broken to pieces and disengaged. One of our mules also lent
him a kick in the head while pursuing it up an adjacent hill,
which sent him rolling to the bottom. Flerc he v/as finally
brought to a stand.

The poor animal was so completely surrounded by enemies
that he became bewildered. He raised himself upon his hind
feet, standing almost erect, his mouth partly open, and from his
protruding tongue the blood fell fast in drops. While in this
position, he received about six more balls, each of which made
him reel. At last, as in complete desperation, he dashed into the
water, and swam several yards with astonishing strength and
agility, the guns cracking at him constantly; but he was not to
proceed far. Just then, Richardson, who had been absent, rode
up, and fixing his deadly aim upon him, fired a ball into the back

86 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

of his head, which killed him instantly. The strength of four men
was required to drag the ferocious brute from the water, and
upon examining his body, he was found completely riddled ;
there did not appear to be four inches of his shaggy person, from
the hips upward, that had not received a ball. There must
have been at least thirty shots made at him, and probably few
missed him; yet such was his tenacity of life, that I have no
doubt he would have succeeded in crossing the river, but for the
last shot in the brain. He would probably weigh, at the least,
six hundred poundsj and was about the height of an ordinary
steer. The spread of the foot, laterally, was ten inches,
and the claws measured seven inches in length. This animal
was remarkably lean ; when in good condition, he would,
doubtless, much exceed in weight ^ estimate I have given.
Richardson, and two other hunters, in company, killed two in
the course of the afternoon, and saw several others.

This evening, our pet antelope, poor little " Zip Koon," met
with a serious accident. The mule on which he rode, got her
feet fastened in some lava blocks, and, in the struggle to extri-
cate herself, fell violently on the pointed fragments. One of the
delicate legs of our favorite was broken, and he was otherwise
so bruised and hurt, that, from sheer mercy, we ordered him
killed. We had hoped to be able to take him to the fort which
we intend building on the Portneuf river, where he could have
been comfortably cared for. This is the only pet we have had
in the camp, which continued with us for more than a few days.
We have sometimes taken young grizzly bears, but these little
fellows, even when not larger than puppies, are so cross and
snappish, that it is dangerous to handle them, and we could
never become attached to any animal so ungentle, and therefore
young " Ephraim," (to give, him his mountain cognomen,) gene-
rally meets with but little mercy from us when his evil genius
throws him in our way. The young buffalo calf is also very

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 87

often taken, and if removed from the mother, and out of sight of
the herd, he will follow the camp as steadily as a dog ; but his
propensity for keeping close to the horse's heels, often gets him
into trouble, as he meets with more kicks than caresses from
them. He is considered an interloper, and treated accordingly.
The bull calf of a month or two old, is sometimes rather difficult
to manage; he shows no inclination to follow the camp like the
younger ones, and requires to be dragged along by main force.
At such times, he watches for a good opportunity, and before
his captor is aware of what is going on, he receives a butt
from the clumsy head of the intractable little brute, which, in
most cases, lays him sprawling upon the ground.

I had an adventure of this sort a few days before we arrived
at the rendezvous. I captured a large bull calf, and with con-
siderable difficulty, managed to drag him into the camp, by
means of a rope noosed around his neck, and made fast to the
high pommel of my saddle. Here I attached him firmly by a
cord to a stake driven into the ground, and considered him
secure. In a few minutes, however, he succeeded in breaking
his fastenings, and away he scoured out of the camp. I lost no
time in giving chase, and although I fell flat into a ditch, and
afforded no litttle amusement to our people thereby, I soon over-
took him, and was about seizing the stranded rope, which was
still around his neck, when, to my surprise, the little animal
showed fight ; he came at me with all his force, and dashing his
head into my breast, bore me to the ground in a twinkling. I,
however, finally succeeded in recapturing him, and led and
pushed him back into the camp; but I could make nothing of
him ; his stubbornness would neither yield to severity or kind-
ness, and the next morning I loosed him and let him go.

Wth. — On ascending a hill this morning. Captain Wyeth,
who was at the head of the company, suddenly espied an Indian
stealing cautiously along the summit, and evidently endeavoring

88 NARHATIVE OF A JOURNEY

to conceal himself. Captain W. directed the attention of McKay
to the crouching figure, who, the moment he caught a glimpse of
him, exclaimed, in tones of joyful astonishment, " a Blackfoot,

by !" and clapping spurs to his horse, tore up the hill with

the most frantic eagerness, with his rifle poised in his hand
ready for a shot. The Indian disappeared over the hill like a
lightning flash, and in another second, McKay was also out of
sight, and we could hear the rapid clatter of his horse's hoofs in
hot pursuit after the fugitive. Several of the men, with myself,
followed after at a rapid gait, with, however, a very different
object. Mine was simply curiosity, mingled with some anxiety,
lest the wily Indian should lead our impetuous friend into an
ambushment, and his life thus fall a sacrifice to his temerity.
When we arrived at the hill-top, McKay \^as gone, but we saw
the track of his horse passing down the side of it, and we traced
him into a dense thicket about a quarter of a mile distant.
Several of our hardy fellows entered this thicket, and beat about
for some time in various directions, but nothing could they see
either of McKay or the Indian. In the mean time, the party
passed on, and my apprehensions were fast settling into a cer-
tainty that our bold companion had found the death he had so
rashly courted, when I was inexpressibly relieved by hearing
the crackling of the bushes near, which was immediately
followed by the appearance of the missing man himself

He was in an excessively bad humor, and grumbled audibly
about the " Blackfoot rascal getting off in that cowardly fashion,"
without at all heeding the congratulations which I was showering
upon him for his almost miraculous escape. He was evidently
not aware of having been peculiarly exposed, and was regretting,
like the hunter who loses his game by a sudden shift of wind,
that his human prey had escaped him.

The appearance of this Indian is a proof that others are lurk-
ing near ; and if the party happens to be large, they may give us

ACROSS THE ROCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 89

some trouble. We are now in a part of the country which is
almost constantly infested by the Blackfeet; we have seen for
several mornings past, the tracks of moccasins around our camp,
and not unfrcquently the prints of unshod horses, so that we
know we are narrowly watched ; and the slumbering of one of
the guard, or the slightest appearance of carelessness in the con-
duct of the camp, may bring the savages whooping upon us like
demons.

Our encampment this evening is on one of the head branches
of the Blackfoot river, from which we can see the three remark-
able conic summits known by the name of the " Three Bates'''
or " Tetons.^^ JNfear these flows the Portneuf, or south branch of
Snake or Lewis' river. Here is to be another place of rest, and
we look forward to it with pleasure both on our own account and
on that of our wearied horses.

12th. — In the afternoon we made a camp on Ross' creek, a
small branch of Snake river. The pasture is better than we have
had for two weeks, and the stream contains an abundance of ex-
cellent trout. Some of these are enormous, and very fine eating.
They bite eagerly at a grasshopper or minnow, but the largest
fish are shy, and the sportsman requires to be carefully concealed
in order to take them. We have here none of the fine tackle
jointed rods, reels, and silkworm gut of the accomplished city
sportsman ; we have only a piece of common cord, and a hook
seized on with half-hitches, with a willow rod cut on the banks
of the stream ; but with this rough cquij)mcnt we take as many
trout as we wish, and who could do more, even with all the cu-
rious contrivances of old Izaac Walton or Christopher North ?

The band of Indians which kept company with us from the
rendezvous, left; us yesterday, and fell back to join Captain Bon-
neville's party, which is travelling on behind. We do not regret

their absence ; for although they added strength to our band, and

12

90 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

would have been useful in case of an attack from Blackfeet, yet
they added very materially to our cares, and gave us some trouble
by their noise, confusion, and singing at night.

On the 14th, we travelled but about six miles, when a halt was
called, and we pitched our tents upon the banks of the noble
Shoshone or Snake river. It seems now, as though we were
really nearing the western extremity of our vast continent. We
are now on a stream which pours its waters directly into the
Columbia, and we can form some idea of the great Oregon river
by the beauty and magnitude of its tributary. Soon after we
stopped, Captain W., Richardson, and two others left us to seek
for a suitable spot for building a fort, and in the evening they
returned with the information that an excellent and convenient
place had been pitched upon, about five miles from our present
encampment. On their route, they killed a buffalo, which they
left at the site of the fort, suitably protected from wolves, &c.
This is very pleasing intelligence to us, as our stock of dried
meat is almost exhausted, and for several days past we have
been depending almost exclusively upon fish.

The next morning we moved early, and soon arrived at our
destined camp. This is a fine large plain on the south side of
the Portneuf, with an abundance of excellent grass and rich soil.
The opposite side of the river is thickly covered with large timber
of Cottonwood and willow, with a dense undergrowth of the
same, intermixed with service-berry and currant bushes.

Most of the men were immediately put to work, felling trees,
making horse-pens, and preparing the various requisite materials
for the building, while others were ordered to get themselves in
readiness for a start on the back track, in order to make a hunt,
and procure meat for the camp. To this party I have attached
myself, and all my leisure time to-day is employed in preparing
for it.

Our number will be twelve, and each man will lead a mule with

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 91

a pack-saddle, in order to bring in the meat that we may kill.
Richardson is the principal of this party, and Mr. Ashworth has
also consented to join us, so that I hope we shall have an agreea-
ble trip. There will be but little hard work to perform; our
men are mostly of the best, and no rum or cards are al-
lowed.

92 NARKATIVK OF A JOURNEV

CHAPTER VI.

Departure of the hunting camp — A false alarm — Blackfeet Indians — their
ferocity — Requisites of a mountain-man — Good fare, and good appetites — An
experiment — Grizzly bears — Visit of a JVe; Perci lndia7i — Adventure with
a gnzzlij hear — Hunter's anecdotes — Homeward bou7id — Accident from gun-
powder— Arrival at " Fort Hall" — 1 salute — Emaciation of some of the
party from lo',u diet— Mr. McKay's company — Buffalo lodges— Progress of
the building — Effects of judicious training— Indian -worship — A " Camp
Meeting" — Mr. Jason Lee, a favorite— A fatal accident and a burial.

July 16th. — Our little hunting party of twelve men, rode out
of the encampment this morning, at a brisk trot, which gait was
continued until we arrived at our late encampment on Ross'
creek, having gone about thirty miles. Here we came to a halt,
and made a hearty meal on a buffalo which we had just killed.
While we were eating, a little Welshman, whom we had stationed
outside our camp to watch the horses, came running to us out of
breath, crying in a terrified falsetto. ^^ Indians, Indians.'^'' In a
moment every man was on his feet, and his gun in his hand ; the
horses were instantly surrounded, by Richardson's direction, and
driven into the bushes, and we were preparing ourselves for the
coming struggle, when our hunter, peering out of the thick copse
to mark the approach of the enemy, burst at once into a loud
laugh, and muttering something about a Welsh coward, stepped
boldy from his place of concealment, and told us to follow him.
When we had done so, we perceived the band approaching
steadily, and it seemed warily, along the path directly in our
front. Richardson said something to them in an unknown
tongue, which immediately brought several of the strangers to-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 93

wards us at full gallop. One of these was a Canadian, as his
peculiar physiognomy, scarlet sash, and hat ribbons of gaudy
colors, clearly proved, and the two who accompanied him, were
Indians. These people greeted us with great cordiality, the
more so, perhaps, as they had supposed, on seeing the smoke
from our fire, that we were a band of Blackfeet, and that, there-
fore, there was no alternative for them but to fight. While we
were conversing, the whole party, of about thirty, came up, and
it needed but a glance at the motley group of tawdrily dressed
hybrid boys, and blanketted Indians, to convince us that this
was McKay's company travelling on to join him at Fort Hall.

They inquired anxiously about their leader, and seemed
pleased on being informed that he was so near ; the prospect of a
few day's rest at the fort, and the regale by which their arrival
was sure to be commemorated, acted upon the spirits of the mer-
curial young half-breeds, like the potent liquor which they ex-
pected soon to quaff in company with the kindred souls who
were waiting to receive them.

They all seemed hungry, and none required a second invita-
tion to join us at our half finished meal. The huge masses of
savoury fleece meat, hump-ribs, and side-ribs disappeared, and
were polished with wonderful dispatch ; the Canadians ate like
half famished wolves, and the sombre Indians, although slower
and more sedate in their movements, were very little behind
their companions in the agreeable process of mastication.

The next day we rode thirty-four miles, and encamped on a
pretty little stream, fringed with willows, running through the
midst of a large plain. Within a few miles, we saw a small
herd of buffalo, and six of our company left the camp for a hunt.
In an hour two of them returned, bringing the meat of one ani-
mal. We all commenced work immediately, cutting it in thin
slices, and hanging it on the bushes to dry. By sundown, our
work was finished, and soon after dark, the remaining hunters

94 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEiT

came in, bringing the best parts of three more. This will give
us abundance of work for to-morrow, when the hunters will go
out again.

Richardson and Sansbury mention having seen several Black-
feet Indians to-day, who, on observing them, ran rapidly away,
and, as usual, concealed themselves in the bushes. We are
now certain that our worst enemies are around us, and that they
are only waiting for a favorable time and opportunity to make
an attack. They are not here for nothing, and have probably
been dogging us, and reconnoitering our outposts, so that the
greatest caution and watchfulness will be required to prevent a
surprise. We are but a small company, and there may be at
this very moment hundreds within hearing of our voices.

The Blackfoot is a sworn and determined foe to all white
men, and he has often been heard to declare that he would
rather hang the scalp of a " pale face" to his girdle, than kill a
buffalo to prevent his starving.

The hostility of this dreaded tribe is, and has for years been,
proverbial. They are, perhaps, the only Indians who do not
fear the power, and who refuse to acknowledge the superiority of
the white man; and though so often beaten in conflicts with
them, even by their own mode of warfare, and generally with
numbers vastly inferior, their indomitable courage and per-
severance still urges them on to renewed attempts ; and if a
single scalp is taken, it is considered equal to a great victory,
and is hailed as a presage of future and more extensive triumphs-
It must be acknowledged, however, that this determined hos-
tility docs not originate solely in savage malignity, or an abstract
thirst for the blood of white men ; it is fomented and kept alive
from year to year by incessant provocatives on the part of
white hunters, trappers, and traders, who are at best but in-
truders on the rightful domains of the red man of the wilderness.

95

Many a night have I sat at the camp-fire, and listened to the
recital of bloody and ferocious scenes, in which the narrators
were the actors, and the poor Ijidians the victims, and I have felt
my blood tingle with shame, and boil with indignation, to hear
the diabolical acts applauded by those for whose amusement they
were related. Many a precious villain, and merciless marauder,
was made by these midnight tales of rapine, murder, and rob-
bery ; many a stripling, in whose tender mind the seeds of virtue
and honesty had never germinated, burned for an opportunity
of loading his pack-horse with the beaver skins of some solitary
Blackfoot trapper, who was to be murdered and despoiled of the
property he had acquired by weeks, and perhaps months, of toil
and danger.

Acts of this kind are by no means unfrequent, and the subjects
of this sort of atrocity are not "always the poor and despised
Indians : white men themselves often fall by the hands of their
companions, when by good fortune and industry they have
succeeded in loading their horses with fur. The fortunate
trapper is treacherously murdered by one who has eaten from
the same dish and drank from the same cup, and the homicide
returns triumphantly to his camp with his ill gotten property.
If his companion be inquired for, the answer is that some days
ago they parted company, and he will probably soon join them.

The poor man never returns — no one goes to search for him —
he is soon forgotten, or is only remembered by one more steadfast
than the rest, who seizes with avidity the first opportunity which
is afforded, of murdering an unoffending Indian in revenge for the
death of his friend.

On the 20th, we moved our camp to a spot about twelve
miles distant, where Richardson, with two other hunters, stopped
yesterday and spent the night. They had killed several buffalo
here, and were busily engaged in preparing the meat when we
joined them. They gave us a meal of excellent cow's flesh, and

96 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

I thought I never had eaten any thing so delicious. Hitherto we
have had only the bulls which are at this season poor and rather
unsavory, but now we are feasting upon the best food in the
world.

It is true we have nothing but meat and good cold water, but
this is all we desire : we have excellent appetites, no dyspepsia,
clear heads, sharp ears, and high spirits, and what more does a
man require to make him happy ?

We rise in the morning with the sun, stir up our fires, and
roast our breakfast, eating usually from one to two pounds of
meat at a morning meal. At ten o'clock we lunch, dine at two,
sup at five, and lunch at eight, and during the night-watch com-
monly provide ourselves with two or three " hump-ribs" and a
marrow bone, to furnish employment and keep the drowsy god at
a distance.

Our present camp is a beautiful one. A rich and open plain
of luxuriant grass, dotted with buffalo in all directions, a high
picturesque hill in front, and a lovely stream of cold mountain
v/ater flowing at our feet. On the borders of this stream, as
usual, is a dense belt of willows, and under the shade of these we
sit and work by day, and sleep soundly at night. Our meat is
now dried upon scaffolds constructed of old timber which we
find in great abundance upon the neighboring hill. We keep a
fire going constantly, and when the meat is sufficiently dried, it
is piled on the ground, preparatory to being baled.

21, s/. — The buffalo appear even more numerous than when
we came, and much less suspicious than common. The bulls fre-
quently pass slowly along within a hundred yards of us, and toss
their shaggy and frightful looking heads as though to warn us-
against attacking or approaching them.

Towards evening, to-day, I walked out with my gun, in the
direction of one of these prowling monsters, and the ground in
his vicinity being covered densely with bushes, I determined to

ACROSS THE ROCKY 3I0UNTAINS, ETC. 97

approach as near him as possible, in order to try the efficacy of
a ball planted directly in the centre of the forehead. I had heard
of this experiment having been tried without success, and I wished
to ascertain the truth for myself.

" Taking the wind" of the animal, as it is called, (that is,
keeping to leeward, so that my approach could not be perceived
by communicating a taint to the air,) I crawled on my hands and
knees with the utmost caution towards my victim. The un-
wieldy brute was quietly and unsuspiciously cropping the herb-
age, and I had arrived to within ten feet of him, when a sudden
flashing of the eye, and an impatient motion, told me that I was
observed. He raised his enormous head, and looked around him,
and so truly terrible and grand did he appear, that I must con-
fess, (in your ear,) I felt awed, almost frightened, at the task I
had undertaken. But I had gone too far to retreat; so, raising
my gun, I took deliberate aim at the bushy centre of the fore-
head, and fired. The monster shook his head, pawed up the
earth with his hoofs, and making a sudden spring, accompanied
by a terrific roar, turned to make his escape. At that instant,
the ball from the second barrel penetrated his vitals, and he
measured his huge length upon the ground. In a few seconds
he was dead. Upon examining the head, and cutting away the
enormous mass of matted hair and skin which enveloped the
skull, my large bullet of twenty to the pound, was found com-
pletely flattened against the bone, having carried with it, through
the interposing integument, a considerable portion of the coarse
hair, but without producing the smallest fracture. I was satis-
fied ; and taking the tongue, (the hunter's perquisite,) I returned
to my companions.

This evening the roaring of the bulls in the gang near us is

terrific, and these sounds are mingled with the howling of large

packs of wolves, which regularly attend upon them, and the hoarse

screaming of hundreds of ravens flying over head. The dreaded

13

98 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

grizzly bear is also quite common in this neighborhood ; two have
just been seen in some bushes near, and they visit our camp al-
most every night, attracted by the piles of meat which are heaped
all around us. The first intimation we have of his approach is
a great grunt or snort, unlike any sound I ever heard, but'much
more querulous than fierce ; then we hear the scraping and
tramping of his huge feet, and the snuffing of his nostrils, as the
savory scent of the meat is wafted to them. He approaches
nearer and nearer, with a stealthy and fearful pace, but just as he
is about to accomplish the object of his visit, he suddenly stops
short ; the snuffing is repeated at long and trembling intervals,
and if the slightest motion is then made by one of the party,
away goes ^'■Ephraim,^'' like a cowardly burglar as he is, and we
hear no more of him that night.

On the 23d a Nez Perce Indian, belonging to Mr. McKay's
company, visited us. He is one of several hunters who have
been sent from the fort on the same errand as ourselves. This
was a middle aged man, with a countenance in which shrewd-
ness or cunning, and complaisance, appeared singularly blended.
But his person was a perfect wonder, and would have served ad-
mirably for the study of a sculptor. The form was perfection
itself The lower limbs were entirely naked, and the upper part
of the person was only covered by a short checked shirt. His
blanket lay by his side as he sat with us, and was used only
while moving. I could not but admire the ease with which the
man squatted on his haunches immediately as he alighted, and
the position both of body and limbs was one that, probably, no
white man unaccustomed to it, could have endured for many
minutes together. The attitude, and indeed the whole figure
was graceful and easy in the extreme; and on criticising his per-
son, one was forcibly reminded of the Apollo Belvidere of Canova.
His only weapons were a short bow and half a dozen arrows, a
scalping knife and tomahawk ; with these, however, weak and in-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 99

efficient as they seemed, he had done good service, every arrow
being smeared with blood to the feathers. He told Richardson
that he and his three or four companions had killed about sixty
buffalo, and that now, having meat enough, they intended to re-
turn to their camp to-morrow.

This afternoon I observed a large flock of wild geese passing
over ; and upon watching them, perceived that they alighted about
a mile and a half from us, where I knew there was a lake. Con-
cluding that a little change of diet might be agreeable, I sallied
forth with my gun across the plain in quest of the birds. I soon
arrived at a thick copse of willow and currant bushes, which
skirted the water, and was about entering, when I heard a sort
of angry growl or grunt directly before me — and instantly after,
saw a grizzly bear of the largest kind erect himself upon his hind
feet within a dozen yards of me, his savage eyes glaring with
horrible malignity, his mouth wide open, and his tremendous
paws raised as though ready to descend upon me. For a mo-
ment, I thought my hour liad come, and that I was fated to die
an inglorious death away from my friends and my kindred ; but
after waiting a moment in agonizing suspense, and the bear show-
ing no inclination to advance, my lagging courage returned, and
cocking both barrels of my gun, and presenting it as steadily as
my nerves would allow, full at the shaggy breast of the creature,
I retreated slowly backwards. Bruin evidently had no notion of
braving gunpowder, but I did not know whether, like a dog, if
the enemy retreated he would not yet give me a chase ; so when I
had placed about a hundred yards between us, I wheeled about
and flew, rather than ran, across the plain towards the camp.
Several times during this run for life, (as I considered it,) did I
fancy that I heard the bear at my heels ; and not daring to look
over my shoulder to ascertain the fact, I only increased my
speed, until the camp was nearly gained, when, from sheer ex-
haustion I relaxed my efforts, fell flat upon the ground, and

100 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

looked behind me. The whole space between me and the copse
was untenanted, and I was forced to acknowledge, with a feeling
strongly allied to shame, that my fears alone had represented
the bear in chase of me.

When I arrived in camp, and told my break-neck adventure to
the men, our young companion, Mr. Ashworth, expressed a wish
to go and kill the bear, and requested the loan of my double-bar-
relled gun for this purpose. This I at first peremptorily refused, and
the men, several of whom were experienced hunters, joined me in
urging him not to attempt the rash adventure. At length, how-
ever, finding him determined on going, and that rather than re-
main, he would trust to his own single gun, I was finally induced to of-
fer him mine, with a request, (which I had hoped would check his
daring spirit,) that he would leave the weapon in a situation
where I could readily find it; for afi;er he had made one shot, he
would never use a gun again.

He seemed to heed our caution and advice but little, and, with
a dogged and determined air, took the way across the plain to
the- bushes, which we could see in the distance. I watched him
for some time, until I saw him enter them, and then, with a sigh
that one so young and talented should be lost from amongst us,
and a regret that we did not forcibly prevent his going, I sat
myself down, distressed and melancholy. We all listened anx-
iously to hear the report of the gun; but no sound reaching our
ears, we began to hope that he had failed in finding the animal,
and in about fifteen minutes, to my inexpressible relief, we saw
him emerge from the copse, and bend his steps slowly towards
us. When he came in, he seemed disappointed, and somewhat
angry. He said he had searched the bushes in every direction,
and although he had found numerous foot prints, no bear was to
be seen. It is probable that when I commenced my retreat in
one direction, bruin made off in the other, and that although he
was willing to dispute the ground with me, and prevent my

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 101

passing his lair, he was equally willing to back out of an en-
gagement in which his fears suggested that he might come off
the loser.

This evening, as we sat around the camp fire, cozily wrapped
in our blankets, some of our old hunters became garrulous, and
we had several good " yarns,^'' as a sailor would say. One told
of his having been shot by a Blackfoot Indian, who was disguised
in the skin of an elk, and exhibited, with some little pride, a
great cicatrix which disfigured his neck. Another gave us an
interesting account of an attack made by the Cumanche Indians
upon a party of Santa-Fee traders, to which he had been
attached. The white men, as is usual in general engagements
with Indians, gained a signal victory, not, however, without the
loss of several of their best hunters ; and the old man, who told
the story, — " uncle John," as he was usually called, — shed tears
at the recollection of the death of his friends ; and during that
part of his narrative, was several times so much affected as to
be unable to speak.*

The best story, however, was one told by Richardson, of a
meeting he once had with three Blackfeet Indians. He had
been out alone hunting buffalo, and towards the end of the day
was returning to the camp with his meat, when he heard the
clattering of hoofs in the rear, and, upon looking back, observed
three Indians in hot pursuit of him.

He immediately discharged his cargo of meat to lighten his
horse, and then urged the animal to his utmost speed, in an
attempt to distance his pursuers. He soon discovered, however,
that the enemy was rapidly gaining upon him, and that in a few

♦ I have repeatedly observed these exhibitions of feeling in some of our people
upon particular occasions, and I have been pleased with them, as they seemed to
furnish an evidence, that amid all the mental sterility, and absence of moral
rectitude, which is so deplorably prevalent, there yet lingers some kindliness of
heart, some sentiments which ai-c not wholly depraved.

102 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

minutes more, he would be completely at their mercy, when he
hit upon an expedient, as singular as it was bold and courageous.
Drawing his long scalping knife from the sheath at his side, he
plunged the keen weapon through his horse's neck, and severed
the spine. The animal dropped instantly dead, and the deter-
mined hunter, throwing himself behind the fallen carcass, waited
calmly the approach of his sanguinary pursuers. In a few
moments, one Indian was within range of the fatal rifle, and at
its report, his horse galloped riderless over the plain. The re-
maining two then thought to take him at advantage by approach-
ing simultaneously on both sides of his rampart; but one of them,
happening to venture too near in order to be sure of his aim,
was shot to the heart by the long pistol of the white man, at the
very instant that the ball from the Indian's gun whistled harm-
lessly by. The third savage, being wearied of the dangerous
game, applied the whip vigorously to the flanks of his horse, and
was soon out of sight, while Richardson set about collecting the
trophies of his singular victory.

He caught the two Indians' horses ; mounted one, and loaded
the other with the meat which he had discarded, and returned to
his camp with two spare rifles, and a good stock of ammunition.

On the morning of the 25th, we commenced baling up our
meat in buffalo skins dried for the purpose. Each bale contains
about a hundred pounds, of which a mule carries two; and when
we had finished, our twelve long-eared friends were loaded.
Our limited term of absence is now nearly expired, and we are
anxious to return to the fort in order to prepare for the journey
to the lower country.

At about 10 o'clock, we left our pleasant encampment, and
bade adieu to the cold spring, the fat bufTalo, and grizzly bears,
and urging our mules into their fastest walk, we jolted along
with our provant towards the fort.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 103

In about an hour after, an unpleasant accident happened to
one of our men, named McCarey. He had been running a
buffalo, and was about reloading the gun, which he had just
discharged, when the powder in his horn was ignited by a burn-
ing wad remaining in the barrel ; the horn was burst to frag-
ments, the poor man dashed from his horse, and his face, neck,
and hands, burnt in a shocking manner. We applied, imme-
diately, the simple remedies which our situation and the place
afforded, and in the course of an hour he was somewhat relieved,
and travelled on with us, though in considerable suffering. His
eyes were entirely closed, the lids very much swollen, and his
long, flowing hair, patriarchal beard and eye-brows, had all
vanished in smoke. It will be long ere he gets another such
crop.

The weather here is generally uncomfortably warm, so much
so, that we discard, while travelling, all such encumbrances as
coats, neckcloths, &c., but the nights are excessively cold, ice
often forming in the camp kettles, of the thickness of half an
inch, or more. My custom has generally been to roll myself in
my blanket at night, and use my large coat as a pillow; but here
the coat must be worn, and my saddle has to serve the purpose
to which the coat is usually applied.

We travelled, this day, thirty miles, and the next afternoon,
at 4 o'clock, arrived at the fort. On the route we met three
hunters, whom Captain W. had sent to kill game for the camp.
They informed us that all hands have been for several days on
short allowance, and were very anxious for our return.

When we came in sight of the fort, we gave them a mountain
salute, each man firing his gun in quick succession. They did
not expect us until to-morrow, and the firing aroused them
instantly. In a very {e\v minutes, a score of men were armed
and mounted, and dashing out to give battle to the advancing
Indians, as they thought us. The general supposition was, that

104 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

their little hunting party had been attacked by a band of roving
Blackfeet, and they made themselves ready for the rescue in a
space of time that did them great credit.

It was perhaps " bad medicine," (to use the mountain phrase,)
to fire a salute at all, inasmuch as it excited some unnecessary
alarm, but it had the good effect to remind them that danger
might be near when they least expected it, and afforded them an
opportunity of showing the promptness and alacrity with which
they could meet and brave it.

Our people were all delighted to see us arrive, and I could
perceive many a longing and eager gaze cast upon the well
filled bales, as our mules swung their little bodies through the
camp. My companion, Mr. N., had become so exceedingly thin
that I should scarcely have known him ; and upon my expressing
surprise at the great change in his appearance, he heaved a sigh
of inanity, and remarked that I " would have been as thin as he
if I had lived on old Epkraim for two weeks, and short allowance
of that." I found, in truth, that the whole camp had been sub-
sisting, during our absence, on little else than two or three
grizzly bears which had been killed in the neighborhood ; and
with a complacent glance at my own rotund and cow-fed
person, I wished my poor friend better luck for the future.

We found Mr. McKay's company encamped on the bank of
the river within a few hundred yards of our tents. It consists of
thirty men, thirteen of whom are Indians, Nez Perces, Chinooks
and Kayouse, with a few squaws. The remainder are French-
Canadians, and half-breeds. Their lodges, — of which there are
several, — are of a conical form, composed of ten long poles, the
lower ends of which are pointed and driven into the ground ; the
upper blunt, and drawn together at the top by thongs. Around
these poles, several dressed buffalo skins, sewed together, are
stretched, a hole being left on one side for entrance.

These are the kind of lodges universally used by the mountain

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 105

Indians while travelling : they are very comfortable and com-
modious, and a squaw accustomed to it, will erect and prepare
one for the reception of her husband, while he is removing the
trapping, from his horse. I have seen an expert Indian woman
stretch a lodge ^in half the time that was required by four white
men to perform the same operation with another in the neigh-
borhood.

At the fort, affairs look prosperous : the stockade is fin-
ished ; two bastions have been erected, and the work is sin-
gularly good, considering the scarcity of proper building tools.
The house will now soon be habitable, and the structure
can then be completed at leisure by men who will be left
here in charge, while the party travels on to its destination,
the Columbia.

On the evening of the 26th, Captain W. Mr. Nuttall and
myself supped with Mr. McKay in his lodge. I am much pleased
with this gentleman: he unites the free, frank and open manners of
the mountain man, with the grace and affability of the Frenchman.
But above all, I admire the order, decorum, and strict subordina-
tion which exists among his men, so different from what I have
been accustomed to see in parties composed of Americans. Mr.
McKay assures me that he had considerable difficulty in bringing
his men to the state in which they now are. The free and fear-
less Indian was particularly difficult to subdue; but steady,
determined perseverance, and bold measures, aided by a rigid
self-example, made them as clay in his hand, and has finally
reduced them to their present admirable condition. If they
misbehave, a commensurate punishment is sure to follow : in
extreme cases, flagellation is resorted to, but it is inflicted only
by the hand of the Captain ; were any other appointed to perform
this office on an Indian, the indignity would be deemed so great,
that nothing less than the blood of the individual could appease

the wounded feelings of the savage.

14

106 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

After supper was concluded, we sat ourselves down on a
buffalo robe at the entrance of the lodge, to see the Indians at
their devotions. The whole thirteen were soon collected at the
call of one whom they had chosen for their chief, and seated
with sober, sedate countenances around a large lire. After
remaining in perfect silence for perhaps fifteen minutes, the
chief commenced an harangue in a solemn and impressive tone,
reminding them of the object for which they were thus assembled,
that of worshipping the " Great Spirit who made the light and
the darkness, the fire and the water," and assured them that if they
offered up their prayers to him with but " one tongue," they
would certainly be accepted. He then rose from his squatting
position to his knees, and his example was followed by all the
others. In this situation he commenced a prayer, consisting of
short sentences uttered rapidly but with great apparent fervor, his
hands clasped upon his breast, and his eyes cast upwards with a
beseeching look towards heaven. At the conclusion of each
sentence, a choral response of a few words was made, accom-
panied frequently by low moaning. The prayer lasted about
twenty minutes. After its conclusion, the chief, still maintainin g
the same position of his body and hands, but with his head bent
to his breast, commenced a kind of psalm or sacred song, in
which the whole company presently joined. The song was a
simple expression of a few sounds, no intelligible words being
uttered. It resembled the words, Ho-ha-ho-ha-ho-ha-ha-a, com-
mencing in a low tone, and gradually swelling to a full,
round, and beautifully modulated chorus. During the song, the
clasped hands of the worshippers were moved rapidly across the
breast, and their bodies swung with great energy to the time of the
music. The chief ended the song that he had commenced, by a
kind of swelling groan, which was echoed in chorus. It was
then taken up by another, and the same routine was gone

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 107

through. The whole ceremony occupied perhaps one and a half
hours ; a short silence then succeeded, after which each Indian
rose from the ground, and disappeared in the darkness with a step
noiseless as that of a spectre.

I think I never was more gratified by any exhibition in
my life. The humble, subdued, and beseeching looks of
the poor untutored beings who were calling upon their hea-
venly father to forgive their sins, and continue his mercies
to them, and the evident and heart-felt sincerity which cha-
racterized the whole scene, was truly affecting, and very im-
pressive.

The next day, being the Sabbath, our good missionary, Mr.
Jason Lee, was requested to hold a meeting, with which he oblig-
ingly complied. A convenient, shady spot was selected in the
forest adjacent, and the greater part of our men, as well as the
whole of Mr. McKay's company, including the Indians, attended.
The usual forms of the Methodist service, (to which Mr. L. is
attached,) were gone through, and were followed by a brief, but
excellent and appropriate exhortation by that gentleman. The
people were remarkably quiet and attentive, and the Indians sat
upon the ground like statues. Although not one of them could
understand a word that was said, they nevertheless maintained
the most strict and decorous silence, kneeling when the preacher
kneeled, and rising when he rose, evidently with a view of pay-
ing him and us a suitable respect, however much their own no-
tions as to the proper and most acceptable forms of worship,
might have been opposed to ours.

A meeting for worship in the Rocky mountains is almost as
unusual as the appearance of a herd of buffalo in the settlements.
A sermon was perhaps never preached here before ; but for my-
self, I really enjoyed the whole scene; it possessed the charm

108 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

of novelty, to say nothing of the salutary etTect which I sincerely
hope it may produce.

Mr. Lee is a great favorite with the men, deservedly so, and
there are probably iJsw persons to whose preaching they would
have listened with so much complaisance. I have often been
amused and pleased by Mr. L.'s manner of reproving them
for the coarseness and profanity of expression which is so uni-
versal amongst them. The reproof, although decided, clear, and
strong, is always characterized by the mildness and affectionate
manner peculiar to the man ; and although the good effect of the
advice may not be discernible, yet it is always treated with re-
spect, and its utility acknowledged.

In the evening, a fatal accident happened to a Canadian be-
longing to Mr. McKay's party. He was running his horse, in
company with another, when the animals were met in full career
by a third rider, and horses and men were thrown with great
force to the ground. The Canadian was taken up completely
senseless, and brought to Mr. McKay's lodge, where we were all
taking supper. I perceived at once that there was little chance
of his life being saved. He had received an injury of the
head which had evidently caused concussion of the brain.
He was bled copiously, and various local remedies were ap-
plied, but without success ; the poor man died early next
morning.

He was about forty years of age, healthy, active, and
shrewd, and very much valued by Mr. McKay as a leader
in his absence, and as an interpreter among the Indians of the
Columbia.

At noon the body was interred. It was wrapped in a piece of
coarse linen, over which was sewed a buffalo robe. The spot se-
lected, was about a hundred yards south of the fort, and the
luneral was attended by the greater part of the men of both
camps. Mr. Lee ofliciatcd in performing the ordinary church

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 109

ceremony, after which a hymn for the repose of the soul of
the departed, was sung by the Canadians present. The
grave is surrounded by a neat palisade of willows, with a
black cross erected at the head, on which is carved the name
" Casseaii.^''

110 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

CHAPTER VII.

Departure of .Mr. JMcXay^s parti/. Captain Stewart, and the missionaries —
Debauch at the fort — Departure of the company — Poor provision — Blackfeet
hunting ground — A toilsome journey, and sufferings from thirst — Goddin's
creek — Antoine Goddin, the trapper — Scarcity of game — A buffalo — Rugged
mountains — Comforting reflections of the traveller — More game — Unusual
economy — Habits of the white -wolf — " Thor7iburg's pass'" — Dijicult travel-
ling— The captain in Jeopardy among the snow — Jl countermarch — Deserted
Banneck camp — Toilsome and dangerous passage of the mountain — JMallade
river — Beaver dams, and heaver — A party of Snake Indians — Scarcity of
pasture — Another Banneck camp — " Kamas prairie'''' — Indian mode of pre-
paring the kamas — Racine blanc, or biscuit root — Travelling over the hills —
Loss of horses by fatigue — Boisie or Big-wood river — Salmon — Clioke-cher-
ries, &c.

On the 30th of July, Mr. McKay and his party left us for
Fort Vancouver, Captain Stewart and our band of misionaries ac-
companying them. The object of the latter in leaving us, is,
that they may have an opportunity of travelling more slowly
than we should do, on account, and for the benefit of the horned
cattle which they are driving to the lower country. We feel
quite sad in the prospect of parting from those with whom w^e
have endured some toil and danger, and who have been to some
of us as brothers, throughout our tedious journey ; but, if no
unforeseen accident occurs, we hope to meet them all again at
Walla- Walla, the upper fort on the Columbia. As the party
rode off, we fired three rounds, which were promptly answered,
and three times three cheers wished the travellers success.

August 5th. — At sunrise this morning, the " star-spangled
banner" was raised on the flag-staff at the fort, and a salute

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. Ill

fired by the men, who, according to orders, assembled around it.
AH in camp were then allowed the free and uncontrolled use of
liquor, and, as usual, the consequence was a scene of rioting,
noise, and fighting, during the whole day ; some became so
drunk that their senses fled them entirely, and they were there-
fore harmless ; but by far the greater number were just suffi-
ciently under the influence of the vile trash, to render them in
their conduct disgusting and tiger-like. We had "gouging,"
biting, fisticuffing, and " stamping" in the most " scientific" per-
fection ; some even fired guns and pistols at each other, but
these weapons were mostly harmless in the unsteady hands
which employed them. Such scenes I hope never to witness
again ; they are absolutely sickening, and cause us to look upon
our species with abhorrence and loathing. Night at last came,
and cast her mantle over our besotted camp ; the revel was over,
and the men retired to their pallets peaceably, but not a few of
them will bear palpable evidence of the debauch of the 5th of
August.

The next morning we commenced packing, and at 11 o'clock
bade adieu to " Fort Hall." Our company now consists of but
thirty men, several Indian women, and one hundred and sixteen
horses. We crossed the main Snake, or Shoshone river, at a
point about three miles from the fort. It is here as wide as the
Missouri at Independence, but, beyond comparison, clearer and
more beautiful.

Immediately on crossing the river, we entered upon a wide,
sandy plain, thickly covered with wormwood, and early in the
afternoon, encamped at the head of a delightful spring, about ten
miles from our starting place.

On the route, our hunters killed a young grizzly bear, which,
with a few grouse, made us an excellent dinner. Fresh meat is
now very grateful to our palates, as we have been living for
weeks past on nothing but poor, dried buffalo, the better, and

112 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNKY

far the larger part, having been deposited in the fort for the
subsistence of the men who remain. We have no flour, nor
vegetables of any kind, and our meat may be aptly compai-ed to
dry chips, breaking short off in our fingers; and when boiled to
soften it a little, and render it fit for mastication, not a star
appears in the pot. It seems astonishing that life can be sus-
tained upon such miserable fare, and yet our men (except
when under the influence of liquor) have never murmered,
but have always eaten their crusty meal, and drunk their
cold water with light and excellent spirits. We hope soon
to fall in with the buffalo, and we shall then endeavor to
prepare some good provision to serve until we reach the
salmon region.

We shall now, for about ten days, be travelling through the
most dangerous country west of the mountains, the regular
hunting ground of the Blackfeet Indians, who are said to be
often seen here in parties of hundreds, or even thousands, scour-
ing the plains in pursuit of the buffalo. Traders, therefore,
seldom travel this route without meeting them, and being com-
pelled to prove their valor upon them ; the white men are, how-
ever, generally the victors, although their numbers are always
vastly inferior.

1th. — We were moving this morning with the dawn, and
travelled steadily the whole day, over one of the most arid
plains we have seen, covered thickly with jagged masses of lava,
and twisted wormwood bushes. Both horses and men were
jaded to the last degree ; the former from the rough, and at times
almost impassable nature of the track, and the latter from ex-
cessive heat and parching thirst. We saw not a drop of water
during the day, and our only food was the dried meat before
spoken of, which we carried, and chewed like biscuits as we
travelled. There are two reasons by which the extreme thirst
which the way-farer suffers in these regions, may be accounted

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 113

for; first, the intense heat of the sun upon the open and exposed
plains ; and secondly, the desiccation to which every thing here
is subject. The air feels like the breath of a sirocco, the tongue
becomes parched and horny, and the mouth, nose, and eyes are
incessantly assailed by the fine pulverized lava, which rises
from the ground with the least breath of air. Bullets, pebbles of
chalcedony, and pieces of smooth obsidian, were in great requisi-
tion to-day ; almost every man was mumbling some of these
substances, in an endeavor to assuage his burning thirst. The
camp trailed along in a lagging and desponding line over the
plain for a mile or more, the poor horses heads hanging low,
their tongues protruding to their utmost extent, and their riders
scarcely less drooping and spiritless. We were a sad and most
forlorn looking company, certainly ; not a man of us had any
thing to say, and none cared to be interrupted in his blissful
dream of cool rivers and streams. Occasionally we would pass
a ravine or gorge in the hills, by which one side of the plain was
bounded, and up this some of the men would steer, leaping over
blocks of lava, and breaking a path through the dense bushes ;
but the poor searcher soon returned, disheartened and wo-begone,
and those who had waited anxiously to hear his cheering call,
announcing success, passed onward without a word. One of our
men, a mulatto, after failing in a forage of this sort, cast himself
resolutely from his horse to the gi'ound, and declared that he
would lie there till he died ; " there was no water in the cursed
country, and he might as well die here as go farther." Some
of us tried to infuse a little courage into him, but it proved of no
avail, and each was too much occupied with his own particular
grief to use his tongue much in persuasion; so we left him to
his fate.

Soon after night-fall, some signs of water were seen in a small
valley to our left, and, upon ascending it, the foremost of the

party found a delightful little cold spring ; but they soon exhausted

15

114 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

it, and then commenced, with axes and knives, to dig it out and
enlarge it. By the time that Mr. N., and myself arrived, they
had excavated a large space which was filled to overflowing with
muddy water. We did not wait for it to settle, however, but
throwing ourselves flat upon the ground, drank until we were
ready to burst. The tales which I had read of suffering travellers
in the Arabian deserts, then recurred with some force to my re-
collection, and I thought I could, — though in a very small
measure, — appreciate their sufferings by deprivation, and their
unmingled delight and satisfaction in the opportunity of assuaging
them.

Poor Jim, the mulatto man, was found by one of the people,
who went back in search of him, lying where he had first fallen,
and either in a real or pretended swoon, still obstinate about
dying, and scarcely heeding the assurances of the other that
w-ater was within a mile of him. He was, however, at length
dragged and carried into camp, and soused head foremost into
the mud puddle, where he guzzled and guzzled until his eyes
seemed ready to burst from his head, and he was lifted out and
laid dripping and flaccid upon the ground.

The next morning we made an early start towards a range of
willows which we could distinctly see, at the distanceof fifteen or
twenty miles, and which we knew indicated Goddin's creek, so
called from a Canadian of that name who was killed in this
vicinity by the Blackfcet. Goddin's son, a half-breed, is now
with us as a trapper ; he is a fine sturdy fellow, and of such
strength of limb and wind, that he is said to be able to run down
a buffalo on foot, and kill him with arrows.

Goddin's creek was at length gained, and after travelling a few
miles along its bank we encamped in some excellent pasture.
Our poor horses seemed inclined to make up for lost time here,
as yesterday their only food was the straggling blades of a little

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 115

dry and parched grass growing among the wormwood on the
hills.

We have been considerably disappointed in not seeing any
buffalo to-day, and their absence here has occasioned some fear
that we may not meet with them on our route. Should this be
the case, we shall have to depend upon such small game,
hares, grouse, &c., as may happen to lie in our path. In a short
time, however, even this resource will fail ; and if we do not
happen to see Indians on the upper waters of the Columbia, from
whom we can purchase dried salmon, we shall be under the
necessity of killing our horses for food.

We perhaps derive one advantage, however, from the absence
of game here, — that of there being less probability of lurking
Black feet in the vicinity ; but this circumstance, convenient as it
is, does not compensate for empty stomachs, and I believe the men
would rather fight for the privilege of obtaining food, than live
without it.

The next morning we left Goddin's creek, and travelled
for ten miles over a plain, covered as usual with wormwood bushes
and lava. Early in the day, the welcome cry of "a buffalo!
a buffalo !" was heard from the head of the company, and was
echoed joyfully along the whole line. At the moment, a fine
large bull was seen to bound from the bushes in our front, and
tear off with all his speed over the plain. Several hunters gave
him chase immediately, and in a few minutes we heard the guns
that proclaimed his death. The killing of this animal is a most
fortunate circumstance for us : his meat will probably sustain us
for three or four days, and by that time we are sanguine of pro-
curing other provision. The appearance of this buffalo is not
considered indicative of the vicinity of others : ho is probably a
straggler from a travelling band, and has been unable to proceed
with it, in consequence of sickness or wounds.

116 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

On leaving the plain this morning, we struck into a defile
between some of the highest mountains we have yet seen. In a
short time we commenced ascending, and continued passing over
them, until late in the afternoon, when we reached a plain about
a mile in width, covered with excellent grass, and a delightful
cool stream flowing through the middle of it. Here we encamped,
having travelled twenty-seven miles.

Our journey, to-day, has been particularly laborious. We
were engaged for several hours, constantly in ascending and
descending enormous rocky hills, with scarcely the sign of a
valley between them ; and some of them so steep, that our horses
were frequently in great danger of falling, by making a mis-step
on the loose, rolling stones. I thought the Black Hills, on the
Platte, rugged and difficult of passage, but they sink into insigni-
ficance when compared with these.

We observed, on these mountains, large masses of greenstone,
and beautiful pebbles of chalcedony and fine agate ; the summits of
the highest are covered with snow. In the mountain passes, we
found an abundance of large, yellow currants, rather acid, but
exceedingly palatable to men who have been long living on ani-
mal food exclusively. We all ate heartily of them; indeed,
some of our people became so much attached to the bushes, that
we had considerable difiicultyto induce them to travel again.

\Oth. — We commenced our march at seven this morning, pro-
ceeding up a narrow valley, bordering our encampment in a
north-easterly direction. The ravine soon widened, until it
became a broad, level plain, covered by the eternal " sage"
bushes, but was much less stony than usual. About mid-day,
we left the plain, and shaped our course over a spur of one of
the large mountains ; then taking a ravine, in about an hour we
came to the level land, and struck Goddin's creek again, late in
the afternoon.

Our provision was all exhausted at breakfast, this morning,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 117

(most of our bull meat having been given to a band of ten ti'ap-
pers, who left us yesterday,) we had seen no game on our route,
and we were therefore preparing ourselves to retire supperless to
our pallets, when Richardson and Sansbury were descried ap-
proaching the camp, and, to our great comfort, we observed that
they had meat on their saddles. When they arrived, however,
we were somewhat disappointed to find that they had only killed
a calf, but they had brought the entire little animal with them,
the time for picking and choosing of choice pieces having passed
with us ; and after making a hearty meal, we wrapped ourselves
in our blankets and slept soundly. Although but a scant break-
fast was left for us in the morning, and we knew not if any
dinner would fall in our way, yet " none of these things moved
us ;" we lived altogether upon the present, and heeded not the
future. We had always been provided for ; often, whgn we
had despaired of procuring sustenance, and when the pangs of
hunger had soured our temper, and made us quarrelsome, when
we thought there was no prospect before us but to sacrifice our
valuable horses, or die of starvation, have the means been pro-
vided for our relief. A bufialo, an elk, or an antelope, has
appeared like the goat provided for the faithful Abraham, to save
a more valuable life, and I hope that some of us have been
willing, reverently to acknowledge from whom these benefits and
blessings have been received.

On the day following, Richardson killed two buffalo, and
brought his horse heavily laden with meat to the camp. Our
good hunter walked himself, that the animal might be able to
bear the greater burthen. After depositing the meat in the
camp, he took a fresh horse, and accompanied by three men,
returned to the spot where the game had been killed, (about four
miles distant,) and in the evening, brought in every pound of it,
leaving only the heavier bones. The wolves will be disappointed
this evening ; they are accustomed to dainty picking when they

118 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

glean after the hunters, but we have now abandoned the " wasty
ways" which so disgraced us when game was abundant ; the
despised leg bone, which was wont to be thrown aside with such
contempt, is now polished of every tendon of its covering, and
the savory hump is used as a kind of dessert after a meal of
coarser meat.

Speaking of wolves, I have often been surprised at the perse-
verance and tenacity with which these animals will sometimes
follow the hunter for a whole day, to feed upon the carcass he
may leave behind him. When an animal is killed, they seem to
mark the operation, and stand still at a most respectful distance,
with drooping tail and cars, as though perfectly indifferent to
the matter in progress. Thus will they stand until the game is
butchered, the meat placed upon the saddle, and the hunter is
mounted and on his way ; then, if he glances behind him, he
will see the wily forager stealthily crawling and prowling along
towards the smoking remains, and pouncing upon it, and tearing
it with tooth and nail, immediately as he gets out of reach.

During the day, the wolves are shy, and rarely permit an
approach to within gun-shot; but at night, (where game is abun-
dant,) they are so fearless as to come quite within the purlieus
of the camp, and there sit, a dozen together, and howl hideously
for hours. This kind of serenading, it may be supposed, is not
the most agreeable; and many a time, when on guard, have I
observed the unquiet tossing of the bundles of blankets near me,
and heard issue from them, the low, husky voice of some dis-
turbed sleeper, denouncing heavy anathemas on the unseasonable
music.

\2th. — Wc shaped our course, this morning, towards what
appeared to us a gap in a high and rugged mountain, about
twenty miles ahead. After proceeding eight or ten miles, the
character of the country underwent a remarkable and sudden
change. Instead of the luxuriant sage bushes, by which tlie

ACKOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 119

whole plains have hitherto been covered, and the compact and
dense growth of willows which has uniformly fringed every
stream and rivulet, the ground was completely denuded ; not a
single shrub was to be seen, nor the smallest appearance of vege-
tation, except in small patches near the water. The mountains,
also, which had generally been rocky, and covei'ed with low,
tangled bushes, here abound in beautiful and shapely pine trees.
Some of the higher peaks are, however, completely bare, and
capped with enormous masses of snow-
After we had travelled about twelve miles, we entered a defile
between the mountains, about five hundred yards wide, covered,
like the surrounding country, with pines ; and, as we proceeded,
the timber grew so closely, added to a thick undergrowth of
bushes, that it appeared almost impossible to proceed with our
horses. The farther we advanced, the more our difficulties
seemed to increase ; obstacles of various kinds impeded our
progress ; — fallen trees, their branches tangled and matted toge-
ther, large rocks and deep ravines, holes in the ground, into
which our animals would be precipitated without the possibility
of avoiding them, and an hundred other difficulties, which beggar
description.

We travelled for six miles through such a region as I have
attempted to describe, and at 2 o'clock encamped in a clear spot
of ground, where we found excellent grass, and a cold, rapid
stream. Soon after we stopped. Captain W. and Richardson left
us, to look for a pass through the mountains, or for a spot where
it would be possible to cross them. Strange as it may appear,
yet in this desolate and almost impassable region we have ob-
served, to-day, the tracks of a buffalo which must have passed
here last night, or this morning ; at least so our hunters say, and
they are rarely deceived in such matters.

Captain W. and Richardson returned early next morning, with
the mortifying inteUigence that no practicable pass through the

120 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

mountain could be found. They ascended to the very summit
of one of the highest peaks, above the snow and the reach of ve-
getation, and the only prospect which they had beyond, was a
confused mass of huge angular rocks, over which even a wild goat
could scarcely have made his way. Although they utterly failed in
the object of their exploration, yet they were so fortunate as to
kill a buffalo, (the buffalo,) the meat of which they brought on
their horses.

Wyeth told us of a narrow escape he had while travelling on
foot near the summit of one of the peaks. He was walking on a
ridge which sloped from the top at an angle of about forty de-
grees, and terminated, at its lower part, in a perpendicular preci-
pice of a thousand or twelve hundred feet. He was movino-
along in the snow cautiously, near the lower edge, in order to
attain a more level spot beyond, when his feet slipped and he
fell. Before he could attempt to fix himself firmly, he slid down
the declivity till within a few feet of the frightful precipice. At
the instant of his fall, he had the presence of mind to plant the
rifle which he held in one hand, and his knife which he drew
from the scabbard with the other, into the snow, and as he almost
tottered on the verge, he succeeded in checking himself, and hold-
ing his body perfectly still. He then gradually moved, first the
rifle and then the knife, backward up the slanting hill behind him,
and fixing them firmly, drew up his body parallel to them. In
this way he moved slowly and surely until he had gained his
former station, when, without further difficulty, he succeeded in
reaching the more level land.

After a good breakfast, we packed our horses, and struck back
on our trail of yesterday, in order to try another valley which
we observed bearing parallel with this, at about three miles dis-
tant, and which we conclude must of course furnish a pass
through the mountain. Although our difficulties in returning by
the same wretched route were very considerable, yet they were

ACROSS THE ROCKV MOUNTAIIVS, ETC. 121

somewhat diminished by the road having been partially broken,
and we were enabled also to avoid many of the sloughs and pit-
falls which had before so much incommoded us. We have
named this rugged valley, " Thornburg's pass," after one of our
men of this name, (a tailor,) whom we have to thank for leading
us into all these troubles. Thornburg crossed this mountain two
years ago, and might therefore be expected to know something
of the route, and as he was the only man in the company who
had been here, Captain W. acted by his advice, in opposition to
his own judgment, which had suggested the other valley as af-
fording a m.ore probable chance of success. As we are probably
the only white men who have ever penetrated into this most vile
and abominable rcsion, we conclude that the name v/e have eiven
it must stand, from priority.

In the bushes, along the stream in this valley, the black-tailed
deer (^Cervus macrouriis) is abundant. The beautiful creatures
frequently bounded from their cover within a few yards of us,
and trotted on before us like domestic animals ; " they are so un-
acquainted with man" and his cruel arts, that they seem not to
fear him.

We at length arrived on the open plain again, and in our route
towards the other valley, we came to a large, recent Indian
encampment, probably of Bannecks,* who are travelling down to

* We aftcpwanls learned, lliat only tliree (lavs before our arrival, a liard con-
tested, and most sanguinary battle, had been fought on this spot, between the
Bannecks and Blackfeet, in which the former gained a signal and most complete
victory, killing upwards of forty of their adversaries, and taking about three dozen
scalps. The Blackfeet, altliough much the larger party, were on foot, but the
Bannecks, being all well mounted, had a very decided advantage ; and the contest
occurring on an open plain, where there was no chance of cover, the Blackteet
were run down with horses, and, without being able to load their guns, were
trampled to death, or killed with salmon spuars and axes.

This was not tlie first time that we narrowly escaped a contest with this savage

16

122 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEVf

the fisheries on Snake river. We here took their trail which led
up the valley to which we had been steering. The entrance was
very similar in appearance to that of Thornburg's pass, and it is
not therefore very surprising that our guide should have been de-
ceived. We travelled rapidly along the level land at the base of
the mountain, for about three miles ; we then began to ascend,
and our progress was necessarily slow and tedious. The com-
mencement of the Alpine path was, however, far better than we
had expected, and we entertained the hope that the passage could
be made without difficulty or much toil, but the farther we pro-
gressed, the more laborious the travelling became. Sometimes we
mounted steep banks of intermingled flinty rock, and friable slate,
where our horses could scarcely obtain a footing, frequently sliding
down several feet on the loose, broken stones : — again we passed
along the extreme verge of tremendous precipices at a giddy height,
whereat almost every step the stones and earth would roll from
under our horses' feet, and we could hear them strike with a dull,
leaden 'sound on the craggy rocks below. The whole jc irney,
to-day, from the time we arrived at the heights, until we had
crossed the mountain, has been a most fearful one. For myself,
I might have diminished the danger very considerably, by adopt-
ing the plan pursued by the rest of the company, that of walking,
and leading my horse over the most dangerous places, but I have
been suffering for several days with a lame foot, and am wholly
incapable of such exertion. I soon discovered that an attempt to
guide my horse over the most rugged and steepest ranges was
worse than useless, so I dropped the rein upon the animal's neck,
and allowed him to take his own course, closing my eyes, and
keeping as quiet as possible in the saddle. But I could not for-

and most dreaded tribe. If we had passed there but a few dajs earlier, there is
every probability to suppose that we should have been attacked, as onr party at
that tlrae consisted of but twenty-six men.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 123

bear starting occasionally, when the feet of my horse would slip
on a stone, and one side of him would slide rapidly towards
the edge of the precipice, but I always recovered myself by a
desperate effort, and it was fortunate for me that I did so.

Late in the afternoon, we completed the passage across the
mountain, and with thankful hearts, again trod the level land.
We entered here a fine rich valley or plain, of about half a mile
in width, between two ranges of the mountain. It was profusely
covered with willow, and through the middle of it, ran a rapid
and turbulent mountain torrent, called Mallade river. It contains
a great abundance of beaver, their recent dams being seen in
great numbers, and in the night, when all was quiet, we could
hear the playful animals at their gambols, diving from the shore
into the water, and striking the surface with their broad tails.
The sound, altogether, was not unlike that of children at play,
and the animated description of a somewhat similar scene, in the
" Mohicans," recurred to my recollection, where the single-minded
Gamut is contemplating with feelings of strong reprobation, the
wayward freaks of what he supposes to be a bevy of young
savages.

lAth. — We travelled down Mallade river, and followed the
Indian trail through the valley. The path frequently passed
along near the base of the mountain, and then wound its way a
considerable distance up it, to avoid rocky impediments and thick
tangled bushes below, so that we had some climbing to do ; but
the difficulties and perils of the route of yesterday are still so fresh
in our memory, that all minor things are disregarded, at least by
us. Our poor horses, however, no doubt feel differently, as they
are very tired and foot sore.

The next day we came to a close and almost impenetrable
thicket of tangled willows, through which we had great diffi-
culty in urging our horses. The breadth of the thicket was

124 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

about one hundred yards, and a full hour was consumed in pass-
ing through it. Wc then entered immediately a rich and beauti-
ful valley, covered profusely with a splendid blue Lupin. The
mountains on either side are of much less height than those we
have passed, and entirely bare, the pine trees which generally
cover, and ornament them, having disappeared. During the
morning, we ascended and descended several high and stony
hills, and early in the afternoon, emerged upon a large, level
prairie, and struck a branch of Mallade river, where we en-
camped.

While we were unloading, we observed a number of Indians
ahead, and not being aware of their character, stood with our
horses saddled, while Captain W. and Richardson rode out to re-
connoitre. In about half an hour they returned, and informed
us that they were Snakes who were returning from the fisheries,
and travelling towards the buffalo on the " big river," (Shoshone.)
We therefore unsaddled our poor jaded horses and turned them
out to feed upon the luxuriant pasture around the camp, while
we, almost equally jaded, threw ourselves down in our blankets
to seek a little repose and quiet after the toils and fatigues of a
long day's march.

Soon after we encamped, the Snake chief and two of his young
men visited us. We formed a circle around our lodge and smoked
the pipe of peace with them, after which we made them each a
present of a yard of scarlet cloth for loggings, some balls and
powder, a knife, and a looking glass. Captain W. then asked
^ them a number of questions, through an interpreter, relative to
the route, the fishery, &c. &c., — and finally bought of them a
small quantity of dried salmon, and a little fermented kamas or
quamash root. The Indians remained with us until dark, and
then left us quietly for their own camp. There are two lodges
of them, in all about twenty persons, but none of them presumed
to come near us, with the exception of the three men, two

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 125

squaws, and a few children. The chief is a man about fifty
years of age, tall, and dignified looking, with large, strong aqua-
line features. His manners were cordial and agreeable, perhaps
remarkably so, and he exhibited very little of that stoical indiffer-
ence to surrounding objects which is so characteristic of an In-
dian. His dress consisted of plain leggings of deer skin, fringed
at the sides, unembroidered moccasins, and a marro or waist-
covering of antelope skin dressed without removing the hair.
The upper part of his person was simply covered with a small
blanket, and his ears were profusely ornamented with brass
rings and beads. The men and squaws who accompanied him,
were entirely naked, except that the latter had marro's of deer
skin covering the loins.

The next morning we steered west across the wide prairie,
crossing within every mile or two, a branch of the tortuous
Mallade, near each of which good pasture was seen ; but on the
main prairie scarcely a blade of grass could be found, it having
been lately fired by the Indians to improve the crops of next
year. We have seen to-day some lava and basalt again on the
sides of the hills, and on the mounds in the plain, but the level
land was entirely free from it.

At noon on the 17th, we passed a deserted Indian camp, pro-
bably of the same people whose trail we have been following.
There were many evident signs of the Indians having but re-
cently left it, among which was that of several white wolves
lurking around in the hope of finding remnants of meat, but, as a
Scotchman would say, " I doubt they were mistaken," for meat
is scarce here, and ^he frugal Indians rarely leave enough behind
them to excite even the famished stomach of the lank and hun-
gry wolf. The encampment here has been but a temporary one,
occupying a little valley densely overgrown with willows,
the tops of which have been bent over, and tied so as to form a
sort of lodge ; over these, they have probably stretched deer

126 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

skins or blankets, to exclude the rays of the sun. Of these lodges
there are about forty in the valley, so that the party must have
been a large one.

In the afternoon we arrived at " Kaunas prairie,'''' so called
from a vast abundance of this esculent root which it produces,
(the Kamassa esculenta, of Nutlall.) The plain is a beautiful
level one of about a mile over, hemmed in by low, rocky hills,
and in spring, the pretty blue flowers of the Kamas are said to
give it a peculiar, and very pleasing appearance. At this season,
the flowers do not appear, the vegetable being indicated only by
little dry stems which protrude all over the ground among the

grass.

We encamped here, near a small branch of Mallade river ; and
soon after, all hands took their kettles and scattered over the
prairie to dig a mess of kamas. We were, of course, eminently
successful, and were furnished thereby with an excellent and
wholesome meal. When boiled, this little root is palatable, and
somewhat resembles the taste of the common potato ; the Indian
mode of preparing it, is, however, the best— that of fermenting it
in pits under ground, into which hot stones have been placed.
It is suffered to remain in these pits for several days ; and when
removed, is of a dark brown color, about the consistence of soft-
ened glue, and sweet, like molasses. It is then often made into
large cakes, by being mashed, and pressed together, and slightly
baked in the sun. There are several other kinds of bulbous and
tuburous roots, growing in these plains, which are eaten by
the Indians, after undergoing a certain process of fermentation
or baking. Among these, that which is most esteemed, is the
white or biscuit root, the Racine blanc of the Canadians, —
{Eidophvs ambiguus, of Nuttall.) This is dried, pulverized with
stones, and after being moistened with water, is made into cakes
and baked in the sun. The taste is not unlike that of a stale

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 127

biscuit, and to a luingry man, ov one who has long subsisted
without vegetables of any kind, is i-ather palatable.

.On the morning of the 18th, we commenced ascending the
hills again, and had a laborious and toilsome day's march. One
of our poor wearied horses gave up, and stopped ; kicking, and
cuffing, and beating had no effect to make him move ; the poor
animal laid himself down with his load, and after this was de-
tached and shifted to the back of another, we left him where he
fell, to recruit, and fall into the hands of the Indians, or die
among the arid hills. This is the first horse we have lost in this
manner; but we have great fears that many others will soon fail,
as their riders and drivers are compelled to use the whip con-
stantly, to make them walk at the slowest gait. We comfort
ourselves, however, by supposing that we have now nearly
passed the most rugged country on the route, and hope, before
many days, to reach the valley of the Shoshone, where the
country will be level, and the pasture good. We are anxious,
also, to fall in with the Snake Indians, in order to get a supply
of salmon, as we have been living for several days on a short
allowance of wretched, dry meat, and this poor pittance is now
almost exhausted.

19th. — This morning was cold, the thermometer stood at 28°,
and a thick skim of ice was in the camp kettles at sunrise.
Another hard day's travel over the hills, during which we lost
two of our largest and stoutest horses. Towards evening, we
descended to a fine large plain, and struck Boisee, or Big Wood
river, on the borders of which we encamped. This is a beautiful
stream, about one hundred yards in width, clear as crystal, and,
in some parts, probably twenty feet deep. It is literally crowded
with salmon, which are springing from the water almost con-
stantly. Our mouths are watering most abundantly for soine of
them, but we are not provided with suitable implements for

128 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

taking any, and must therefore depend for a supply on the In-
dians, whom we hope soon to meet.

We found, in the mountain passes, to-day, a considerable
quantity of a small fruit called the choke-cherry, a species of
prunus, growing on low bushes. \A'hen ripe, they are tolerable
eating, somewhat astringent, however, producing upon the mouth
the same effect, though in a less degree^ as the unripe persimmon.
They are now generally green, or we should feast luxuriantly
upon them, and render more tolerable our miserable provision.
We have seen, also, large patches of service bushes, but no
fruit. It seems to have failed this year, although ordinarily so
abundant that it constitutes a large portion of the vegetable food
of both Indians and white trappers who visit these regions.

ACROSS THE UOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 129

CHAPTER VIII.

Jl substitute for game, and a luxurious breakfast — Expectations of a repast,
and a disappointment — Visit of a Snake chief — his abhorrence of horse
meat — A band of Snake Indians — their chief — Trade with Indians for
salmon— Mr. Ashworth's adventtire — An Indian horse-thief— Visit to the
Snake camp — its Jilthiness — A Banneck camp — Supercilious conduct of the
Indians — Airival at Snake river — Equipment of a trapping party — Indian
mode of catching salmon — Loss of a favorite horse — Powder river — Cut
rocks— Recovery of the lost trail — Grand Ronde — Captain Bonneville — his
fondness for a roving life—Kayouse and J^ez Perce Indians— their appear-
ance— An Indian beauty — Blue mountains — A feline visit.

August 20th. — At about daylight this morning, having charge
of the last guard of the night, I observed a beautiful, sleek little
colt, of about four months old, trot into the camp, winnowing
with great apparent pleasure, and dancing and curvetting gaily
amongst our sober and sedate band. I had no doubt that he had
strayed from Indians, who were probably in the neighborhood;
but as here, every animal that comes near us is fair game, and
as we were hungry, not having eaten any thing of consequence
since yesterday morning, I thought the little stranger would
make a good breakfast for us. Concluding, however, that it
would be best to act advisedly in the matter, I put my head into
Captain W.'s tent, and telling him the news, made the proposi-
tion which had occurred to mc. The captain's reply was en-
couraging enough, — " Down with him, if you please, Mr. T., it
is the Lord's doing; let us have him for breakfast." In five
minutes afterwards, a bullet scaled the fate of the unfortunate

visitor, and my men were set to work making fires, and rum-

17

130 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

maglng out the long-neglected stew-pans, while I engaged myself
in flaying the little animal, and cutting up his body in readiness
for the pots.

When the camp was aroused, about an hour after, the savory
steam of the cookery was rising and saluting the nostrils of our
hungry people with its fragrance, who, rubbing their hands with
delight, sat themselves down upon the ground, waiting with
what patience they might, for the unexpected repast which was
preparing for them.

It was to me almost equal to a good breakfast, to witness the
pleasure and satisfaction which I had been the means of diffusing
through the camp.

The repast was ready at length, and we did full justice to it ;
every man ate until he was filled, and all pronounced it one of
the most delicious meals they had ever assisted in demolishing.
When our breakfast was concluded, but little of the colt remained ;
that little was, however, carefully packed up, and deposited on
one of the horses, to furnish, at least, a portion of another
meal.

The route, this morning, lay along Boisee. For an hour, the
travelling was toilsome and difficult, the Indian trail, leading
along the high bank of the river, steep and rocky, making our
progress very slow and laborious. We then came to a wide
plain, interrupted only by occasional high banks of earth, some
of them of considerable extent, across which ran the path. To-
wards mid-day, we lost sight of these banks, the whole country
appearing level, with the exception of some distant hills in the
south-west, which we suppose indicate the vicinity of some part
of Snake river.

We have all been disappointed in the distance to this river,
and the length of time required to reach it. Not a man in our
camp has ever travelled this route before, and all we have known
about it has been the general course.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 131

In the afternoon, we observed a number of Indians on the oppo-
site side of the river, engaged in fishing for salmon. Captain W.
and two men immediately crossed over to them, carrying with
them a few small articles to exchange for fish. We congratu-
lated ourselves upon our good fortune in seeing these Indians,
and were anticipating a plentiful meal, when Captain W. and his
companions returned, bringing only three small salmon. The
Indians had been unsuccessful in fishing, not having caught
enough for themselves, and even the offer of exorbitant sums
was not sufficient to induce them to part with more.

In the afternoon, a grouse and a beaver were killed, which,
added to the remains of the colt, and our three little salmon, made
us a tolerable supper. While we were eating, we were visited by a
Snake chief, a large and powerful man, of a peculiarly dignified
aspect and manner. He was naked, with the exception of a small
blanket which covered his shoulders, and descended to the middle
of the back, being fastened around the neck with a silver
skewer. As it was pudding time with us, our visitor was of
course invited to sit and eat ; and he, nothing loath, deposited
himself at once upon the ground, and made a remarkably
vigorous assault upon the mixed contents of the dish. He had
not eaten long, however, before we perceived a sudden and inex-
plicable change in his countenance, which was instantly followed
by a violent ejectment of a huge mouthful of our luxurious fare.
The man rose slowly, and with great dignity, to his feet, and pro-
nouncing the single word " shekum," (horse,) in a tone of
mingled anger and disgust, stalked rapidly out of the camp, not
even wishing us a good evening. It struck me as a singular in-
stance of accuracy and discrimination in the organs of taste.
We had been eating of the multifarious compound without being
able to recognise, by the taste, a single ingredient which it con-
tained ; a stranger came amongst us, who did not know, when he

132 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

commenced eating, that the dish was formed of more than one
item, and yet in less than five minutes he discovered one of the
very least of its component parts.

It would seem from this circumstance that the Indians, or it
may be the particular tribe to which this man belongs, are
opposed to the eating of horse flesh, and yet, the natural supposi-
tion would be, that in the gameless country inhabited by them they
would often be reduced to such shifts, and thus readily conquer
any natural reluctance which they might feel to partake of such
food. I did not think until after he left us, that if the chief knew
how the horse meat he so much detested was procured, and
where, he might probably have expressed even more indignation,
for it is not at all unlikely that the colt had strayed from his
own band.

21st. — The timber along the river banks is plentiful, and often
attains a large size. It is chiefly of the species called balsam
poplar, (^Populus balsamifera.)

Towards noon to-day, we observed ahead several groups of
Indians, perhaps twenty in each, and on the appearance of our
cavalcade, they manifested their joy at seeing us, by the most
extravagant and grotesque gestures, dancing and capering most
ludicrously. Every individual of them was perfectly naked, with
the exception of a small thong around the waist, to which was
attached a square piece of flannel, skin, or canvass, depending
half way to the knees. Their stature was rather below the
middle height, but they were strongly built and very muscular.
Each man carried his salmon spear, and these, with the knives
stuck in their girdles, appeared to be their only weapons, not one
of them having a gun. As we neared them, the fiftt group ran
towards us, crying "Shoshone, Shoshone," anjd" caused some
delay by their eagerness to grasp our hands and examine our
garments. After one group had become satisfied with fingering

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 133

US, we rode on and suffered the same process by the next, and
so on until we had passed the whole, every Indian crying with a
loud voice, " Tahihoo sant, tahihoo sant /" (white man is good,
white man is good.)

In a short time the chief joined us, and our party stopped for an
hour, and had a "talk" with him. He told us, in answer to our
questions, that his people had fish, and would give them for our
goods if we would sleep one night near their camp, and smoke with
them. No trade, of consequence, can ever be effected with
Indians, unless the pipe be first smoked, and the matter calmly
and seriously deliberated upon. An Indian chief would think his
dignity seriously compromised if he were expected to do any
thing in a hurry, much less so serious a matter as a salmon or
beaver trade ; and if we had refused his offered terms, he would
probably have allowed us to pass on, and denied himself the
darling rings, bells, and paint, rather than infringe a custom so
long religiously practised by his people. We were therefore
inclined to humor our Snake friend, and accordingly came to a
halt, on the bank of the river.

The chief and several of his favored young braves sat with
us on the bank, and we smoked with them, the other Indians
forming a large circle around.

The chief is a man rather above the ordinary height, with a
fine, noble countenance, and remarkably large, prominent eyes.
His person, instead of being naked, as is usual, is clothed in a
robe made of the skin of the mountain sheep ; a broad band
made of large blue beads, is fastened to the top of his head, and
hangs over on his cheeks, and around his neck is suspended the
foot of a huge grizzly bear. The possession of this uncouth or-
nament is considered among them, a great honor, since none but
those whose prowess has enabled them to kill the animal, are al-
lowed to wear it, and with their weak and inefiicicnt weapons.

134 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the destruction of so fierce and terrible a brute, is a feat that
may well entitle them to some distinction.

We remained two hours at the spot where we halted, and then
passed on about four miles, accompanied by the chief and his
people, to their camp, where we pitched our tents for the night.
In a short time the Indians came to us in great numbers, with
bundles of dried salmon in their arms, and a few recent ones. We
commenced our trading immediately, giving them in exchange,
fish-hooks, beads, knives, paint, &c., and before evening, had
procured sufficient provision for the consumption of our party
until we arrive at the falls of Snake river, where we are told we
shall meet the Bannecks, from whom we can doubtless trade a
supply, which will serve us until we reach Walla-walla.

While we were pursuing our trade, Richardson and Mr. Ash-
worth rode into the camp, and I observed by the countenance of
the latter, that something unusual had occurred. I felt very
certain that no ordinary matter would be capable of ruffling this
calm, intrepid, and almost fool-hardy young man ; so it was with
no little interest that I drew near, to listen to the tale which he
told Captain W. with a face flushed with unusual anger, while
his whole person seemed to swell with pride and disdain.

He said that while riding about five miles behind the party,
(not being able to keep up with it on account of his having a worn
out horse,) he was attacked by about fifty of the Indians whom
we passed earlier in the day, dragged forcibly from his horse
and thrown upon the ground. Here, some held their knives to
his throat to prevent his rising, and others robbed him of his
saddle bags, and all that they contained. While he was yet in
this unpleasant situation, Richardson came suddenly upon them,
and the cowardly Indians released their captive instantly, throw-
ing the saddle bags and every thing else upon the ground, and
flying like frightened antelopes over the plain. The only real
damage that Mr. Ashworth sustained, was the total loss of his

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 135

saddle bags, which were cut to pieces by the knives of the In-
dians, in order to abstract the contents. These, however, we
think he deserves to lose, inasmuch, as with all our persuasion,
we have never been able to induce him to carry a gun since we
left the country infested by the Blackfeet ; and -to-day, the very
show of such a weapon would undoubtedly have prevented the
attack of which he complains.

Richardson gives an amusing account of the deportment of
our young English friend while he was lying under the knives
his captors. The heavy whip of buffalo hide, which was his
only weapon, was applied with great energy to the naked backs
and shoulders of the Indians, who winced and stamped under the
infliction, but still feared to use their knives, except to prevent
his rising. Richardson, says, that until he approached closely,
the blows were descending in rapid succession, and our hunter
was in some danger of losing his characteristic dignity in his
efforts to repress a loud and hearty laugh at the extreme ludi-
crousness of the whole scene.

Captain W., when the circumstances of the assault were stated
to him, gave an immediate order for the suspension of business,
and calling the chief to him, told him seriously, that if an attempt
were again made to interrupt any of his party on their march,
the offenders should be tied to a tree and whipped severely. He
enforced his language by gestures so expressive that none could
misunderstand him, and he was answered by a low groan from
the Indians present, and a submissive bowing of their heads.
The chief appeared very much troubled, and harangued his peo-
ple for considerable time on the subject, repeating what the cap-
tain had said, with some additional remarks of his own, implying
that even a worse, fate than whipping would be the lot of future
delinquents.

22d. — Last night during the second guard, while on my walk

136 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

around the camp, I observed one of my men squatted on the
ground, intently surveying some object which appeared to be
moving among the horses. At his request, I stooped also,
and could distinctly perceive something near us which was cer-
tainly not a horse, and yet was as certainly a living object. I
supposed it to be either a bear or a wolf, and at the earnest solici-
tation of the man, I gave the word " fire." The trigger was in-
stantly pulled, the sparks flew from the flint, but the rifle was not
exploded. At the sound, an Indian sprang from the grass
where he had been crouching, and darted away towards the
Snake camp. His object certainly was to appropriate one of
our horses, and very fortunate for him was it that the gun
missed fire, for the man was an unerring marksman. This
little warning will probably check other similar attempts by these
people.

Early in the morning I strolled into the Snake camp. It con-
sists of about thirty lodges or wigwams, formed generally of
branches of trees tied together in a conic summit, and covered
with buflalo, deer, or elk skins. Men and little children
were lolling about the ground all around the wigwams, together
with a heterogeneous assemblance of dogs, cats, some tamed
prairie wolves, and other "tjarmnits." The dogs growled and
snapped when I approached, the wolves cowered and looked
cross, and the cats ran away and hid themselves in dark corners.
They had not been accustomed to the face of a white man, and
all the quadrupeds seemed to regard me as some monstrous produc-
tion, more to be feared than loved or courted. This dislike,
however, did not appear to extend to the bipeds, for many of
every age and sex gathered around me, and seemed to be exam-
ining me critically in all directions. The men looked compla-
cently at me, the women, the dear creatures, smiled upon me,
and the little naked, pot-bellied children crawled around my feet,
examining the fashion of my hard shoes, and playing with the

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 137

long fringes of my leathern inexpressibles. But I scarcely know
how to commence a description of the tout en sernble of the camp,
or to frame a sentence which will give an adequate idea of the
extreme filth, and most horrific nastiness of the whole vicinity.
I shall therefore but transiently glance at it, omitting many of
the most disgusting and abominable features.

Immediately as I entered the village, my olfactories were as-
sailed by the most vile and mephitic odors, which I found to pro-
ceed chiefly from great piles of salmon entrails and garbage
which were lying festering and rotting in the sun, around the very
doors of the habitations. Fish, recent and half dried, were scat-
tered all over the ground, under the feet of the dogs, wolves and
Indian children; and others which had been split, were hanging on
rude platforms erected within the precincts of the camp. Some of
the women were making their breakfast of the great red salmon
eggs as large as peas, and using a wooden spoon to convey
them to their mouths. Occasionally, also, by way of varying the
repast, they would take a huge pinch of a drying fish which was
lying on the ground near them. Many of the children were
similarly employed, and the little imps would also have hard
contests with the dogs for a favorite morsel, the former roaring
and blubbering, the latter yelping and snarling, and both rolling
over and over together upon the savory soil. The whole economy
of the lodges, and the inside and outside appearance, was of a piece
with every thing else about them — filthy beyond description — the
very skins which covered the wigwams were black and stiff with
rancid salmon fat, and the dresses, (if dresses they may be
called) of the women, were of the same color and consistence,
from the same cause. These dresses are little square pieces of
deer skin, fastened with a thong around the loins, and reaching
about half way to the knees ; the rest of the person is entirely
naked. Some of the women had little children clinging like bull-
frogs to their backs, without being fastened, and in that situation

18

138 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

extracting their lactiferous sustenance from the breast, which
was thrown over the shoulders.

It is ahiaost needless to say, that I did not remain long in the
Snake camp; for although I had been a considerable time
estranged from the abodes of luxury, and had become somewhat
accustomed to, at least, a partial assimilation to a state of nature,
yet I was not prepared for what I saw here. I never had fancied
any thing so utterly abominable, and was glad to escape to a
purer and more wholesome atmosphere.

When I returned to our camp, the trading was going on as
briskly as yesterday. A large number of Indians were assembled
around, all of whom had bundles of fish, which they were
anxious to dispose of. The price of a dried salmon is a straight
awl, and a small fish hook, value about one cent ; ten fish are
given for a common butcher knife that costs eight cents. Some,
however, Avill prefer beads, paint, &c., and of these articles,
about an equal amount in value is given. A beaver skin can be
had for a variety of little matters, which cost about twelve and a
half cents ; value, in Boston, from eight to ten dollars !

Early in the afternoon, we repacked our bales of goods and
rode out of the encampment, the Indians yelling an adieu to us
as we passed them. We observed that one had wrapped a
buffalo robe around him, taken a bow and arrows in his hand,
and joined us as we went off'. Although we travelled rapidly
during the afternoon, the man kept with us without apparent
over-exertion or fatigue, trotting along constantly for miles
together. He is probably on a visit to a village of his people
who are encamped on the " Big river."

2Sd. — Towards noon, to-day, we fell in with a village, con-
sisting of thirty willow lodges of Bannecks. The Indians flocked
out to us by hundreds, leaving their fishing, and every other
employment, to visit the strangers. The chief soon made him-
self known to us, and gave us a pressing invitation to stop a

ACROSS TlIK ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC 139

short time with them, for the purpose of trade. Although we
had a good supply of fish on hand, and did not expect soon to
suffer from want, yet we knew not but we might be disappointed
in procuring provision lower in the country, and concluded,
therefore, to halt for half an hour, and make a small increase to
our stock. We were in some haste, and anxious to travel on as
quickly as possible, to Snake river. Captain W., therefore,
urged the chief to have the fish brought immediately, as he in-
tended soon to leave them. The only reply he could obtain to
this request, was " te saiit," (it is good,) accompanied by signs,
that he wished to smoke. A pipe was provided, and he, with
about a dozen of his young men, formed a circle near, and con-
tinued smoking, with great tranquillity, for half an hour.

Our patience became almost exhausted, and they were told
that if their fish were not soon produced, we should leave them
empty as we came ; to this, the only answer of the chief was a
sign to us to remain still, while he deliberated yet farther upon
the subject.

We sat a short time longer in silent expectation, and were
thr3n preparing to mount our horses and be off, wlien several
squaws were despatched to one of the lodges. They returned in
a few minutes, bringing about a dozen dried fish. These were
laid in small piles on the ground, and when the usual price was
offered for them, they refused it scornfully, making the most
exorbitant demands. As our articles of trade were running low,
and we were not in immediate want, we purchased only a suffi-
ciency for one day, and pi'epared for our departure, leaving the
ground strewn with the neglected salmon. The Indians were
evidently very much irritated, as we could perceive by their
angry countenances, and loud words of menace. Some loosed
the bows from their shoulders, and shook them at us with vio-
lent gestures of rage, and a boy, of seventeen or eighteen years
of age, who stood near mc, struck my horse on the head with a

140 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY

stick, which he held in his hand. This provoked me not a little;
and spurring the animal a kw steps forward, I brought my
heavy whip several times over his naked shoulders, and sent him
screeching into the midst of his people. Several bows were
drawn at me for this act, and glad would the savages have been
to have had me for a short time at their mercy, but as it was,
they feared to let slip their arrows, and soon dropped their
points, contenting themselves with vaporing away in all the im-
potence of childish rage. As we rode off, they greeted us, not
with the usual gay yell, but with a scornful, taunting laugh, that
sounded like the rejoicings of an infernal jubilee. Had these
people been provided with efficient arms, and the requisite
amount of courage to use them, they might have given us some
inconvenience.

Towards evening, we arrived on Snake river, crossed it at a
ford, and encamped near a number of lodges along the shore.
Shortly afterwards, Captain W., with three men, visited the In-
dians, carrying with them some small articles, to trade for fish.
In about half an hour they returned, bringing only about ten
salmon. They observed, among the Indians, the same disincli-
nation to traffic that the others had manifested; or rather, like the
first, they placed a higher value than usual upon the commodity,
and wanted, in exchange, articles which we were not willing to
spare them. They treated Captain W. with the same inso-
lence and contempt which was so irritating from those of the
other village.

This kind of conduct is said to be unusual among this tribe,
but it is probably now occasioned by their having recently pur-
chased a supply of small articles from Captain Bonneville, who,
they inform us, has visited them within a few days.

Being desirous to escape from the immediate vicinity of the
village, we moved our camp about four miles further, and
stopped for the night.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 141

24cth. — The sudden and entire change from flesh exclusively,
to fish, ditto, has affected us all, more or leSs, with diarrhoea and
pain in the abdomen ; several of the men have been so extremely
sick, as scarcely to be able to travel ; we shall, however, no
doubt, become accustomed to it in a few days.

We passed, this morning, over a flat country, very similar to
that along the Platte, abounding in wormwood bushes, the pulpy-
leaved thorn, and others, and deep with sand, and at noon stopped
on a small stream called Malheur''s creek.

Here a party of nine men was equipped, and despatched up the
river, and across the country, on a trapping expedition, with
orders to join us early in the ensuing winter, at the fort on the
Columbia. Richardson was the chief of this party, and when I
grasped the hand of our worthy hunter, and bade him farewell, I
felt as though I were taking leave of a friend. I had become
particularly attached to him, from the great simplicity and kind-
ness of his heart, and his universally correct and proper deport-
ment. I had been accustomed to depend upon his knowledge
and sagacity in every thing connected with the wild and roving
life which I had led for some months past, and I felt that his
absence would be a real loss, as well to myself, as to the whole
camp, which had profited so much by his dexterity and skill.

Our party will now consist of only seventeen men, but the
number is amply sufficient, as we have passed over the country
where danger is to be apprehended from Indians. We followed
the course of the creek during the afternoon, and in the evenino;
encamped on Snake river, into which Malheur empties. The
river is here nearly a mile wide, but deep and clear, and for a
considerable distance, perfectly navigable for steamboats, or even
larger craft, and it would seem not improbable, that at some dis-
tant day, these facilities, added to the excellence of the alluvial
soil, should induce the stout and hardy adventurers of our country
to make permanent settlements here.

142 NAUR ATI VE OF A JOURNEY

1 have not observed that the Indians often attempt fishing in
the " big river," where it is wide and deep ; they generally pre-
fer the slues, creeks, &c. Across these, a net of closely woven
willows is stretched, placed vertically, and extending from the
bottom to several feet above the surface. A number of Indians
enter the water about a hundred yards above the net, and,
walking closely, drive the fish in a body against the wicker
work. Here they frequentl)^ become entangled, and are always
checked ; the spear is then used dexterously, and .they are
thrown out, one by one, upon the shore. With industry, a vast
number of salmon might be taken in this manner; but tlie In-
dians are generally so indolent and careless of the future, that it
is rare to find an individual with provision enough to supply his
lodge for a week.

25th. — Early in the day the country assumed a more hilly as-
pect. The rich plains were gone. Instead of a dense growth
of willow and the balsam poplar, low bushes of wormwood,
&c., predominated, intermixed with the tall, rank prairie
grass.

Towards noon, we fell in with about ten lodges of Indians,
(Snakes and Bannecks,) from whom we purchased eighty sal-
mon. This has put us in excellent spirits. We feared that we
had lost sight of the natives, and as we had not reserved half the
requisite quantity of provisions for our support to the Columbia,
(most of our stock having been given to Richardson's trapping
party,) the prospect of several days abstinence seemed very
clear before us.

In the afternoon, we deviated a little from our general course,
to cut off a bend in the river, and crossed a short, high hill, a part
of an extensive range which we have seen for two days ahead,
and which we suppose to be in the vicinity of Powder river, and

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 143

in the evening encamped in a narrow valley, on the borders of
the Shoshone.

26th. — Last night I had the misfortune to lose my favorite,
and latterly my only riding horse, the other having been left at
Fort Hall, in consequence of a sudden lameness, with which he
became afflicted only the night before our departure.* The
animal was turned out as usual, with the others, in the evening,
and as I have never known him to stray in a single instance, I
conclude that some lurking Indian has stolen him. It was the
fattest and handsomest horse in the band, and was no doubt care-
fully selected, as there was probably but a single Indian, who
was unable to take more, for fear of alarming the guard. This
is the most serious loss I have met with. The animal was par-
ticularly valuable to me, and no consideration would have induced
me to part with it here. It is, however, a kind of accident that
we are always more or less liable to in this country, and as a
search would certainly be fruitless, must be submitted to with
as good a grace as possible. Captain W. has kindly offered me
the use of horses until we arrive at Columbia.

We commenced our march early, travelling up a broad, rich
valley, in which we encamped last night, and at the head of it,
on a creek called Brule, we found one family, consisting of five
Snake Indians, one man, two women, and two children. They
had evidently but very recently arrived, probably only last
nifht, and as they must certainly have passed our camp, we feel
little hesitation in believing that my lost horse is in their posses-
sion. It is, however, impossible to prove the theft upon them in

* I afterwards ascertained tliat this lameness of my " buffalo horse," was inten-
tionallj' caused by one of the hopeful gentry left in charge of the fort, for the pur-
[)0se of rendering the animal unable to travel, and as a consequence, confining him
to the fort at the time of our departure. The good qualities of the horse as a buf-
falo racer, were universally known and appreciated, and I had repeatedly refused
large sums for him, from those who desired him for ihis purpose.

144 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

any way, and time is not allowed us to search the premises.
We cannot even question them concerning it, as our interpreter,
McCarey, left us with the trapping party.

We bought, of this family, a considerable quantity of dried
choke-cherries, these being the only article of commerce which
they possessed. This fruit they prepare by pounding it with
stones, and drying it in masses in the sun. It is then good
tasted, and somewhat nutritive, and it loses, by the process, the
whole of the astrihgency which is so disagreeable in the recent
fruit.

Leaving the valle)'^, we proceeded over some high and stony
hills, keeping pretty nearly the course of the creek. The tra-
velling was, as usual in such places, difficult and laborious, and
our progress necessarily slow and tedious. Throughout the day,
there was no change in the character of the country, and the
consequence was, that three of our poor horses gave up and
stopped.

21th. — This.morning, two men were left at the camp, for the
purpose of collecting and bringing on, moderately, the horses left
yesterday, and others that may hereafter fail. We were obliged
to leave with them a stock of provision greater in proportion than
our own rather limited allowance, and have thus somewhat
diminished our chance of performing the remainder of the jour-
ney with satisfied appetites, but there is some small game to be
found on the route, grouse, ducks, &c., and occasionally a beaver
may be taken, if our necessities are pressing. We made a noon
camp on Brule, and stopped at night in a narrow valley, between
the hills.

2Qth. — Towards noon to-day, we lost the trail among the
hills, and although considerable search was made, we were not
able to find it again. We then directed our course due north,
and at 2 o'clock struck Powder river, a narrow and shallow
stream, plentifully fringed with willows'. We passed down this

ACROSS THE ROCKV^ MOUNTAINS, ETC. 145

river for about five miles and encamped. Captain W. imme-
diately left us to look for the lost trail, and returned in about
two hours, with the information that no trace of it could be
found. He therefore concludes that it is up stream, and to-mor-
row we travel back to search for it in that direction. Our men
killed, in the afternoon, an antelope and a deer fawn, which were
particularly acceptable to us; we had been on an allowance of
one dried salmon per day, and we had begun to fear that even
this poor pittance would fail before we could obtain other provi-
sion. Game has been exceedingly scarce, with the exception of
a few grouse, pigeons, &c. We have not seen a deer, antelope,
or any other quadruped larger than a hare, since we left the
confines of the buffalo country. Early this morning, one of our
men, named Flubbard, left us to hunt, and as he has not joined
us this evening, we fear he is lost, and feel some anxiety about
him, as he has not been accustomed to finding his way through
the pathless wilds. He is a good marksman, however, and will
not suffer much for food ; and as he knows the general course, he
will probably join us at Walla-walla, if we should not see him
earlier.

29th. — We commenced our march early this morning, follow-
ing the river to a point about six miles above where we struck it
yesterday. We then took to the hills, steering N. N. W., — it
being impossible, from the broken state of the country, to keep
the river bank.

Soon after we commenced the ascent, we met with difficulties
in the shape of high, steep, banks, and deep ravines, the ground
being thickly strewed with sharp, angular masses of lava and ba-
salt. As we proceeded, these difficulties increased to such a de-
gree, as to occasion a fear that our horses could never proceed.
The hills at length became like a consolidated mass of irregular
rock, and the small strips of earthy matter that ocasionally ap-
peared, were burst into wide fissures by the desiccation to which

19

146 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the country at this season is subject. Sometimes, as we ap-
proached the verges of the cliffs, we could see the river winding
its devious course many hundred feet below, rushing and foam-
ing in eddies and whirlpools, and fretting against the steep sides
of the rocks, which hemmed it in. These are what are called
the cut-rocks, the sides of which are in many places as smooth
and regular as though they had been worked with the chisel, and
the opening between them, through which the river flows, is fre-
quently so narrow that a biscuit might be thrown across it.

We travelled over these rocks until 1 o'clock in the day,
when we stopped to rest in a small ravine, where we found a
little water, and pasture for our horses. At 3, we were again
on the move, making across the hills towards the river, and after
a long, circuitous march, we arrived on its banks, considerably
wearied, and every horse in our band lamed and completely
exhausted. We have not yet found any clue to the trail for which
we have been searching so anxiously ; indeed it would be im-
possible for a distinguishable trace to be left over these rugged,
stony hills, and the difficulty of finding it, or determining its di-
rection is not a little increased by a dense fog which constantly
envelopes these regions, obscuring the sun, and rendering it im-
possible to see an object many hundred yards in advance.

The next day we were still travelling over the high and steep
hills, which, fortunately for our poor horses, were far less
stony than hitherto. At about noon we descended to the plain,
and struck the river in the midst of a large level prairie. We
proceeded up stream for an hour, and to our great joy suddenly
came in sight of a broad, open trail stretching away to the S. W.
We felt, in some degree, the pleasure of a sailor who has found
the port of which he has been long and anxiously in search.
We made a noon camp here, at which we remained two hours,
and then travelled on in fine spirits over a beautiful, level, and
unobstructed country. Our horses seemed to participate in our

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 147

feelings, and trotted on briskly, as though they too rejo iced in
the opportunity of escaping the dreaded hills and rocks. To-
wards evening we crossed a single range of low hills and came
to a small round prairie, with good water and excellent pasture.
Here we found a family of Kayouse Indians, and encamped
within sight of them. Two squaws from this family, visited us
soon after, bringing some large kamas cakes and fermented roots,
which we purchased of them.

31sf. — Our route this morning, was over a country generally
level and free from rocks ; we crossed, however, one short, and
very steep mountain range, thickly covered with tall and heavy
pine trees, and came to a large and beautiful prairie, called the
Grand ronde. Here we found Captain Bonneville's company,
which has been lying here several days, waiting the arrival of
its trapping parties. We made a noon camp near it, and were
visited by Captain Bonneville. This was the first time I had
seen this gentleman. His manners were atfable and pleasing,
and he seemed possessed of a large share of bold, adventurous,
and, to a certain extent, romantic spirit, without which no man
can expect to thrive as a mountain leader. He stated that he
preferred the " free and easy" life of a mountain hunter and
trapper, to the comfortable and luxurious indolence of a dweller
in civilized lands, and would not exchange his homely, but
wholesome mountain fare, and his buffalo lodge, for the most
piquant dishes of the French artiste, and the finest palace in
the land. This came well from him, and I was pleased with it,
althoush I could not altogether agree with him in sentiment,
for I confess I had become somewhat weary of rough travelling
and rough fare, and looked forward with no little pleasure to
a long rest under a Christian roof, and a general participation
in Christian living.

With the captain, came a whole troop of Indians, Kayouse,

148 NAKRATIVE OF A JOUR>'EY

Nez Perces, 6jc. They were very friendly towards us, each of
the chiefs taking us by the hand with great cordiality, appearing
pleased to see us, and anxious to point out to us the easiest and
most expeditious route to the lower country. These Indians are,
almost universally, fine looking, robust men, with strong aqualine
features, and a much more cheerful cast of countenance than is
usual amongst the race. Some of the women might almost be
called beautiful, and none that I have seen are homely. Their
dresses are generally of thin deer or antelope skin, with occa-
sionally a boddice of some linen stuffs, purchased from the
whites, and their whole appearance is neat and cleanly, forming a
very striking contrast to the greasy, filthy, and disgusting Snake
females. I observed one young and very pretty looking woman?
dressed in a great superabundance of finery, glittering with rings
and beads, and flaunting in broad bands of scarlet cloth. She
was mounted astride, — Indian fashion, — upon a fine bay horse,
whose head and tail were decorated with scarlet and blue ribbons,
and the saddle, upon which the fair one sat, was ornamented all
over with beads and little hawk's bells. This damsel did not do
us the honor to dismount, but seemed to keep warily aloof, as
though she feared that some of us might be inordinately fascinated
by her fine person and splendid equipments, and her whole de-
portment proved to us, pretty satisfactorily, that she was no
common beauty, but the favored companion of one high in office,
who was jealous of her slightest movement.

After making a hasty meal, and bidding adieu to the captain,
and our friendly Indian visitors, we mounted our horses, and
rode off. About half an hour's brisk trotting brought us to the
foot of a steep and high mountain, called the Blue. This is
said to be the most extensive chain west of the dividing ridge,
and, with one exception, perhaps the most difficult of passage^
The whole mountain is densely covered with tall pine trees, with

ACSOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 149

an undergrowth of service bushes and other shrubs, and the path
is strewed, to a very inconvenient degree, with volcanic rocks.
In some of the ravines we find small springs of water; they are,
however, rather rare, and the grass has been lately consumed,
and many of the trees blasted by the ravaging fires of the In-
dians. These fires are yet smouldering, and the smoke from
them effectually prevents our viewing the surrounding country,
and completely obscures the beams of the sun. We travelled
this evening until after dark, and encamped on a small stream in
a gorge, where we found a plot of grass that had escaped the
burning.

September 1st. — Last evening, as we were about retiring to
our beds, we heard, distinctly, as we thought, a loud halloo,
several times repeated, and in a tone like that of a man in great
distress. Supposing it to be a person who had lost his way in
the darkness, and was searching for us, we fired several guns at
regular intervals, but as they elicited no reply, after waiting a
considerable time, we built a large fire, as a guide, and lay down
to sleep.

Early this morning, a large panther was seen prowling around
our camp, and the hallooing of last night Avas explained. It was
the dismal, distressing yell by which this animal entices its prey,
until pity or curiosity induces it to approach to its destruction.
The panther is said to inhabit these forests in considerable num-
bers, and has not unfrequently been known to kill the horses of
a camp. He has seldom the temerity to attack a man, unless
sorely pressed by hunger, or infuriated by wounds.

150 NARRATIVK OF A JOURNEV

CHAPTER IX.

Passage of the Blue Mountains— Sufferings from thirst— Utalla river— A
transformation— A novel meal— Walla-walla river— Columbia river and Fort
Walla-walla — 1 dinner with the missionaries — inecdote of Mr. Lee— A
noble repast— Brief notice of the Fort— Departure of the missionaries— JVotice
of the Walla-walla Indians— Departure for Fort Vancouver-Wild ducks-
Indian graves— Indian horses— Visits from Indians— Ophthalmia, a prevalent
disease— Hough travelling— A company of Chinook Indians— The Dalles—
The party joined by Captain Wyeth— Embarkation in canoes — 4 heavy
gale— Dangerous navigation— Pusillanimous conduct of an Indian helms-
man—A zealous botanist— Departure of Captain Wyeth with five men-
Cascades— A portage— Meeting rvith the missionaries— Loss of a canoe— A
toilsome duty — Arrival at Fort Vancouver —reflections suggested by it— Dr.
John McLoughlin, the chief factoi — Domiciliation of the travellers at Fort
Vancouver.

September 1st.— The path through the valley, in which we
encamped last night, was level and smooth for about a mile; we
then mounted a short, steep hill, and began immediately to descend.
The road down the mountain wound constantly, and we travelled
in short, zig-zag lines, in order to avoid the extremely abrupt decli-
vities; but occasionally, we were compelled to descend in places
that made us pause before making the attempt : they were, some of
them, almost perpendicular, and our horses would frequently slide
several yards, before they could recover. To this must be added
enormous jagged masses of rock, obstructing the road in many
places, and pine trees projecting their horizontal branches across
the path.

The road continued, as I have described it, to the valley in
the plain, and a full hour was consumed before we reached it.

k

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 151

The country then became comparatively level again to the next
range, where a mountain was to be ascended of the same height
as the last. Here we dismounted and led our horses, it being
impracticable, in their present state, to ride them. It was the
most toilsome march I ever made, and we were all so much fatigued,
when we arrived at the summit, that rest was as indispensable to us
as to our poor jaded horses. Here we made a noon camp, with
a handful of grass and no water. This last article appears very
scarce, the ravines affording none, and our dried salmon and
kamas bread were eaten unmoistened. The route, in the after-
noon, was over the top of the mountain, the road tolerably level,
but crowded with stones. Towards evening, we commenced •
descending again, and in every ravine and gulley we cast our
anxious eyes in search of water ; we even explored several of
them, where there appeared to exist any probability of success,
but not one drop did we find. Night at length came on, dark
and pitchy, without a moon or a single star to give us a ray of
light; but still we proceeded, depending solely upon the vision
and sagacity of our horses to keep the track. We travelled
steadily until about 9 o'clock, when we saw ahead the dark out-
line of a high mountain, and soon after heard the men who rode
in front, cry out, joyously, at the top of their voices, " water !
xcater r It was truly a cheering sound, and the words were
echoed loudly by every man in the company. We had not
tasted water since morning, and both horses and men have been
suffering considerably for the want of it.

2«i. — Captain W. and two men, left us early this morning for
Walla-walla, where they expect to arrive this evening, and send
us some provision, of which we shall be in need, to-morrow.

Our camp moved soon after, under the direction of Captain
Thing, and in about four miles reached Utalla river, where it
stopped, and remained until 12 o'clock.

As we were approaching so near the abode of those in whose

152 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

eyes wc vvislied to appear like fellow Christians, we concluded
that there would be a propriety in attempting to remove at least
one of the heathenish badges which we had worn throughout the
journey; so Mr. N.'s razor was fished out from its hiding place
in the bottom of his trunk, and in a few minutes our encumbered
chins lost their long-cherished ornaments ; we performed our
ablutions in the river, arrayed ourselves in clean linen, trimmed
our long hair, and then arranged our toilet before a mirror, with
great self-complacence and satisfaction. I admired my own
appearance considerably, (and this is, probably, an acknowledge-
ment that few would make,) but I could not refrain from laugh-
ing at the strange, party-colored appearance of my physiognomy,
the lower portion being fair, like a woman's, and the upper,
brown and swarthy as an Indian.

Having nothing prepared for dinner to-day, I strolled along
the stream above the camp, and made a meal on rose buds, of
which I collected an abundance ; and on returning, I was sur-
prised to find Mr. N. and Captain T. picking the last bones of
a bird which they had cooked. Upon inquiry, I ascertained
that the subject was an unfortunate owl which I had killed in
the morning, and had intended to preserve, as a specimen. The
temptation was too great to be resisted by the hungry Captain
and naturalist, and the bird of wisdom lost the immortality which
he might otherwise have acquired.

In the afternoon, soon after leavinjj the Utalla, we ascended #;
a high and very steep hill, and came immediately in view^
beautiful, and regularly undulating country of great extent, ""^e'
have now probably done with high, rugged mountains ; the
sun shines clear, the air is bracing and elastic, and we are all in
fine spirits.

The next day, the road being generally level, and tolerably
free from stones, we were enabled to keep our horses at the
swiftest gate to which we dare urge them. We have been some-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 153

what disappointed in not receiving the expected supplies from
Walla-walla, but have not suffered for provision, as the grouse
and hares are very abundant here, and we have shot as many
as we wished.

At about noon we struck the Walla-walla river, a very pretty
stream of fifty or sixty yards in width, fringed with tall willows,
and containing a number of salmon, which we can see frequently
leaping from the water. The pasture here, being good, we al-
lowed our horses an hour's rest to feed, and then travelled on
over the plain, until near dark, when, on rising a sandy hill,
the noble Columbia burst at once upon our view. I could
scarcely repress a loud exclamation of delight and pleasure, as I
gazed upon the magnificent river, flowing silently and majesti-
cally on, and reflected that I had actually crossed the vast Ame-
rican continent, and now stood upon a stream that poured its
waters directly into the Pacific. This, then, was the great Ore-
gon, the first appearance of which gave Lewis and Clark so
many emotions of joy and pleasure, and on this stream our in-
defatigable countrymen wintered, after the toils and privations of
a long, and protracted journey through the wilderness. My re-
verie was suddenly interrupted by one of the men exclaiming
from his position in advance, " there is the fort." We had, in
truth approached very near, without being conscious of it.
There stood the fort on the bank of the river; horses and horned
cattle were roaming about the vicinity, and on the borders of the
_ .>r^ Jittle Walla-walla, we recognised the white tent of our long lost
missionaries. These we soon joined, and were met and received
by them like brethren. Mr. N. and myself were invited to sup
with them upon a dish of stewed hares which they had just pre-
pared, and it is almost needless to say that we did full justice to
the good men's cookery. They told us that they had travelled
comfortably from Fort Hall, without any unusual fatigue, and

like ourselves, had no particularly stirring adventures. Their

20

154 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

route, although somewhat longer, was a much less toilsome and
difficult one, and they suffered but little for food, being well pro-
vided with dried buffalo meat, which had been prepared near
Fort Hall.

Mr. Walker, (a j'oung gentleman attached to the band,) re-
lated an anecdote of Mr. Lee, the principal, which I thought
eminently characteristic. The missionaries were, on one occa-
sion, at a considerable distance behind the main body, and had
stopped for a few moments to regale themselves on a cup of milk
from a cow which they weie driving. Mr. L. had unstrapped
the tin pan from his saddle, and was about applying himself to
the task, when a band of a dozen Indians was descried at a dis-
tance, approaching the little party at full gallop. There was but
little time for consideration. The rifles were looked to, the
horses were mounted in eager haste, and all were ready for a
long run, except Mr. Lee himself, who declared that nothing
should deprive him of his cup of milk, and that he meant to
" lighten the old cow before he moved." He accordingly pro-
ceeded coolly to fill his tin pan, and, after a hearty drink,
grasped his rifle, and mounted his horse, at the very moment
that the Indians had arrived to within speaking distance. To
the great relief of most of the party, these proved to be of the
friendly Nez Perce tribe, and after a cordial greeting, they tra-
velled on together.

The missionaries informed us that they had engaged a large
barge to convey themselves and baggage to Fort Vancouver, and
that Captain Stewart and Mr. Ashworth were to be of the party.
Mr. N. and myself were very anxious to take a seat with them,
but to our disappointment, were told that the boat would scarcely
accommodate those already engaged. We had therefore to re-
linquish it, and prepare for a journey on horseback to the Dalles,
about eighty miles below, to which place Captain W. would

I

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 1^^

precede us in the barge, and engage canoes to convey us to the
lower fort.

This evening, we purchased a large bag of Indian meal, of
which we made a kettle of mush, and mixed with it a con-
siderable quantity of horse tallow and salt. This was, I think,
one of the best meals I ever made. We all ate heartily of it,
and pronounced it princely food. We had been long without
bread stuff of any kind, and the coarsest farinaceous substance,
with a proper allowance of grease, would have been highly
prized.

The next morning, we visited Walla-walla Fort, and were
introduced, by Captain W., to Lieutenant Pierre S. Pambrun,
the superintendent. Wyeth and Mr. Pambrun had met before,
and were well acquainted; they had, therefore, many reminis-
cences of by-gone days to recount, and long conversations, rela-
tive to the variety of incidents which had occurred to each, since
last they parted.

The fort is built of drift logs, and surrounded by a stoccade of
the same, with two bastions, and a gallery around the inside.
It stands about a hundred yards from the river, on the south
bank, in a bleak and unprotected situation, surrounded on every
side by a great, sandy plain, which supports little vegetation,
except the wormwood and thorn-bushes. On the banks of the
little river, however, there are narrow strips of rich soil, and
here Mr. Pambrun raises the few garden vegetables necessary
for the support of his family. Potatoes, turnips, carrots, &c.,
thrive well, and Indian corn produces eighty bushels to the
acre.

At about 10 o'clock, the barge got under way, and soon after,
our company with its baggage, crossed the river in canoes, and
encamped on the opposite shore.

There is a considerable number of Indians resident here,
Kayouse's and a collateral band of the same tribe, called Walla-

156 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

wallas. They live along the bank of the river, in shantys or
wigwams of drift wood, covered with buffalo or deer skins.
They are a miserable, squalid looking people, are constantly
lolling around and in the fort, and annoy visitors by the impor-
tunate manner in which they endeavor to force them into some
petty trade for a pipe, a hare, or a grouse. All the industrious
and enterprising men of this tribe are away trading salmon,
kamas root, &c. to the mountain companies.

Notwithstanding the truly wretched plight in which these poor
people live, and the privations which they must necessarily have
to suffer, they are said to be remarkably honest and upright in
their dealings, and generally correct in their moral deportment.
Although they doubtless have the acquisitive qualities so
characteristic of the race, they are rarely known to violate the
principles of common honesty. A man may leave his tent
unguarded, and richly stored with every thing which ordinarily
excites the cupidity of the Indian, yet, on returning after a long
absence, he may find all safe. What a commentary is this on
the habits and conduct of our Christian communities !

The river is here about three-fourths of a mile in width, — a
clear, deep, and rapid stream, the current being generally from
three to four miles an hour. It is the noblest looking river I
have seen since leaving our Delaware. The banks are in many
places high and rocky, occasionally interrupted by broad, level
sandy beaches. The only vegetation along the margin, is the
wormwood, and other low, arid plants, but some of the bottoms
are covered with heavy, rank grass, affording excellent pasture
for horses.

5th. — This morning we commenced our march down the Colum-
bia. We have no provision with us except flour and horse tallow, but
we have little doubt of meeting Indians daily, with whom we can
trade for fish. Our road will now be a rather monotonous one

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. l-'j?

along the bank of the river, tolerably level, but often rocky,
so that very rapid travelling is inadmissible. The mallard duck,
the widgeon, and the green-winged teal are tolerably abundant in
the little estuaries of the river. Our men have killed several, but
they are poor, and not good.

Gth. — We have observed to-day several high, conical stacks
of drift-wood near tlie river. These are the graves of the
Indians. Some of these cemeteries are of considerable extent,
and probably contain a great number of bodies. I had the
curiosity to peep into several of them, and even to remove some
of the coverings, but found nothing to compensate for the trouble.
We bought some salmon from Indians whom we met to day,
which, with our flour and tallow, enable us to live very
comfortably.

nth. — We frequently fall in with large bands of Indian horses.
There are among them some very beautiful animals, but they are
generally almost as wild as deer, seldom permitting an approach to
within a hundred yards or more. They generally have owners,
as we observe upon many of them strange hieroglyphic looking
characters, but there are no doubt some that have never known
the bit, and will probably always roam the prairie uncontrolled.
When the Indians wish to catch a horse from one of these bands,
they adopt the same plan pursued by the South Americans
for taking the wild animal.

8th. — Our road to-day has been less monotonous, and much
more hilly than hitherto. Along the bank of the river, are high
mountoins, composed of basaltic rock and sand, and along their
bases enormous drifts of the latter material. Large, rocky pro-
montories connected with these mountains extend into the river
to considerable distances, and numerous islands of the same dot
its surface.

We arc visited frequently as wc travel along, by Indians of

158 ' NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the Walla-walla and other tribes, whose wigwams we see on the
opposite side of the river. As we approach these rude huts,
the inhabitants are seen to come forth in a body ; a canoe is im-
mediately launched, the light bark skims the water like a bird,
and in an incredibly short time its inmates are with us. Some-
times a few salmon are brought to barter for our tobacco, paint,
&c., but more frequently they seem impelled to the visit by mere
curiosity. To-day a considerable number have visited us, and
among them some very handsome young girls. I could not but
admire the gaiety and cheerfulness which seemed to animate
them. They were in high spirits, and evidently very much pleased
with the unusual privilege which they were enjoying.

At our camp in the evening, eight Walla-walla's came to see
us. The chief was a remarkably fine looking man, but he, as
well as several of his party, was suffering from a severe puru-
lent ophthalmia which had almost deprived him of sight. He
pointed to his eyes, and contorting his features to indicate the
pain he suffered, asked me by signs to give him medicine to cure
him. I was very sorry that my small stock of simples did not
contain anything suited to his complaint, and I endeavored to tell
him so. I have observed that this disease is rather prevalent
among the Indians residing on the river, and I understood from
the chiefs signs that most of the Indians towards the lower
country were similarly affected.

9th. — The character of the country has changed considerably
§ince we left Walla-walla. The river has become gradually
more narrow, until it is now but about two hundred yards in
width, and completely hemmed in by enormous rocks on both
sides. Many of these extend for considerable distances into the
stream in perpendicular columns, and the water dashes and
breaks against them until all around is foam. The current is
here very swift, probably six or seven miles to the hour; and the

ACKOSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 159

Indian canoes in passing down, seem literally to fy along its
surface. The road to-day has been rugged to the very last
degree. We have passed over continuous masses of sharp rock
for hours together, sometimes picking our way along the very
edge of the river, several hundred feet above it ; again, gaining
the back land, by passing through any casual chasm or opening
in the rocks, where we were compelled to dismount, and lead our
horses.

This evening, we are surrounded by a large company of
Chinook Indians, of both sexes, whose temporary wigwams arc
on the bank of the river. Many of the squaws have young
children served up in the usual Indian fashion, wrapped in a skin,
and tied firmly to a board, so that nothing but the head of the
little individual is seen.

These Indians are very peaceable and friendly. They have no
weapons except bows, and these are used more for amusement and
exercise, than as a means of procuring them sustenance, their
sole dependence being fish and beaver, with perhaps a few hares
and grouse, which are taken in traps. We traded with these peo-
ple for a ^ew fish and beaver skins, and some roots, and before we
retired for the night, arranged the men in a circle, and gave
them a smoke in token of our friendship.

lOth. — This afternoon we reached the Dalles. The entire
water of the river here flows through channels of about fifteen
feet in width, and between high, perpendicular rocks ; there are
several of these channels at distances of from half a mile to
one mile apart, and the water foams and boils through them like
an enormous cauldron.

On the opposite side of the river there is a large Indian village,
belonging to a chief named Tilki, and containing probably five
hundred wigwams. As we approached, the natives swarmed like
bees to the shore, launched their canoes, and joined us in a few

160 NARRATIVE OF A JOURjVEY

minutes. We were disappointed in not seeing Captain W, here, as
this was the spot where we expected to meet him ; the chief,
however, told us that we should find him about twelve miles
below, at the next village. We were accordingly soon on the
move again, and urging our horses to their fastest gait, we
arrived about sunset. The captain, the chief of the village, and
several other Indians, came out to meet us and make us welcome.
Captain W. has been here two days, and we were pleased to
'earn that he had completed all the necessary arrangements for
transporting ourselves and baggage to Vancouver in canoes.
The route by land is said to be a very tedious and difficult one,
and, in some places, almost impassable, but even were it other-
wise, I believe we should all much prefer the water conveyance,
as we have become very tired of riding.

Since leaving the upper village this afternoon, we have been
followed by scores of Indians on foot and on horseback ; some
of the animals carrying three at a time; and although we tra-
velled rapidly, the pedestrians were seldom far behind us.

We have concluded to leave our horses here, in charge of the
chief of the village, who has promised to attend to them during
the winter, and deliver them to our order in the spring. Captain
W. having been acquainted with this man before, is willing to
trust him.

llth. — Early this morning, we launched our three canoes,
and each being provided with an Indian, as helmisman, we ap-
plied ourselves to our paddles, and were soon moving briskly
down the river. In about an hour after, the wind came out
dead ahead, and although the current was in favor, our progress
was sensibly checked. As we proceeded, the wind rose to a
heavy gale, and the waves ran to a prodigious height. At one
moment our frail bark danced upon the crest of a wave, and at
the next, fell with a surge into the trough of the sea, and as we
looked at the swell before us, it seemed that in an instant we

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 161

must inevitably be engulphed. At such times, the canoe ahead
of us was entirely hidden from view, but she was observed to
rise again like a seagull, and hurry on into the same danger.
The Indian in my canoe soon became completely frightened ; he
frequently hid his face with his hands, and sang, in a low melancholy
voice, a prayer which we had often heard from his people, while at
their evening devotions. As our dangers were every moment in-
creasing, the man became at length absolutely childish, and with all
our persuasion and threats, we could not induce him to lay his
paddle into the water. We were all soon compelled to put in shore,
which we did without sustaining any damage ; the boats were
hauled up high and dry, and we concluded to remain in our
quarters until to morrow, or until there was a cessation of wind.
In about an hour it lulled a little, and Captain W. ordered the
boats to be again launched, in the hope of being able to weather
a point about five miles below, before the gale again commenced,
where we could lie by until it should be safe to proceed. The
calm proved, as some of us had suspected, a treacherous one ;
in a very few minutes after we got under way, we were con-
tending with the same difficulties as before, and again our cow-
ardly helmsman laid by his paddle and began mumbling hi?
prayer. It was too irritating to be borne. Our canoe had
swung round broad side to the surge, and was shipping gallons
of water at every dash.

At this time it was absolutely necessary that every man on
board should exert himself to the utmost to head up the canoe
and make the shore as soon as possible. Our Indian, however,
still sat with his eyes covered, the most abject and contemptible
looking thing I ever saw. We took him by the shoulders and
threatened to throw him overboard, if he did not immediately
lend his assistance : we might as well have spoken to a stone.
He was finally aroused, however, by our presenting a loaded

gun at his breast ; he dashed the muzzle away, seized his paddle

21

162 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

again, and worked with a kind of desperate and wild energy,
until he sank back in the canoe completely exhausted. In the
mean time the boat had become half full of water, shipping a
part of every surf that struck her, and as we gained the shallows
every man sprang overboard, breast deep, and began hauling the
canoe to shore. This was even a more difficult task than that of
propelling her with the oars ; the water still broke over her, and
the bottom was a deep kind of quicksand, in which we sank
almost to the knees at every step, tlie surf at the same time
dashing against us with such violence as to throw us repeatedly
upon our faces. We at length reached the shore, and hauled
the canoe up out of reach of the breakers. She was then un-
loaded as soon as possible, and turned bottom upwards. The
goods had suffered considerably by the wetting; they were all
unbaled and dried by a large fire, which we built on the shore.

We were soon visited by several men from the other boats,
which were ahead, and learned that their situation had been
almost precisely similar to our own, except that their Indians
had not evinced, to so great a degree, the same unmanly terror
which had rendered ours so inefficient and useless. They were,
however, considerably frightened, much more so than the white
men. It would seem strange that Indians, who have been born,
and have lived during their whole lives, upon the edge of the
water, who have been accustomed, from infancy, to the manage-
ment of a canoe, and in whose childish sports and manly pas-
times these frail barks have always been employed, should ex-
hibit, on occasions like this, such craven and womanly fears ; but
the probability is, as their business is seldom of a very urgent
nature, that they refrain from making excursions of any con-
siderable extent in situations known to be dangerous, except
during calm weather ; it is possible, also, that such gales may be
rare, and they have not been accustomed to them. Immediately
after we landed, our redoubtable helmsman broke away from us,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 163

and ran at full speed back towards the village. We have doubt-
less lost him entirely, but we do not much regret his departure,
as he proved himself so entirely unequal to the task he had
undertaken.

I2th. — The gale continues with the same violence as yes-
terday, and we do not therefore think it expedient to leave
our camp. Mr. N.'s large and beautiful collection of new and
rare plants was considerably injured by the wetting it received ;
he has been constantly engaged since we landed yesterday, in
opening and drying them. In this task he exhibits a degree of
patience and perseverance which is truly astonishing ; sitting on
the ground, and steaming over the enormous fire, for hours to-
gether, drying the papers, and re-arranging the whole collection,
specimen by specimen, while the great drops of perspiration roll
unheeded from his brow. Throusrhout the whole of our lonaf
journey, I have had constantly to admire the ardor and perfect
indefatigability with which he has devoted himself to the grand
object of his tour. No difficulty, no danger, no fatigue has ever
daunted him, and he finds his rich reward in the addition of
nearly a thousand new species of American plants, which he has
been enabled to make to the already teeming flora of our vast
continent. My bale of birds, which was equally exposed to the
action of the water, escaped without any material injury.

In the afternoon, the gale not having abated, Captain W. be-
came impatient to proceed, as he feared his business at Vancou-
ver would suffer by delay ; he accordingly proposed taking one
canoe, and braving the fury of the elements, saying that he wished
five men, who were not afraid of water, to accompany him. A
dozen of our fearless fellows volunteered in a moment, and the
captain selecting such as he thought would best suit his purpose,
lost no time in launching his canoe, and away she went over
the foaming waters, dashing the spi'ay from her bows, and la-
boring through the heavy swells until she was lost to our view.

164 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

The more sedate amongst us did not much approve of this some-
what hasty measure of our principal ; it appeared like a useless
and daring exposure of human life, not warranted by the exigen-
cies of the case. Mr. N. remarked that he would rather lose all
his plants than venture his life in that canoe.

On the 13th the wind shifted to due north, and was blowing
somewhat less furiously than on the previous day. At about
noon we loaded our canoes, and embarked ; our progress, how-
ever, during the afternoon, was slow ; the current was not rapid,
and the wind was setting up stream so strongly that we could
not make much headway against it ; we had, also, as before, to
contend with turbulent waves, but we found we could weather
them with much less difficulty, since the change of the wind. '

I4:th. — Before sunrise, a light rain commenced, which in-
creased towards mid-day to a heavy shower, and continued
steadily during the afternoon and night. There was, in the
morning, a dead calm, the water was perfectly smooth, and dis-
turbed only by the light rain pattering upon its surface. We
made an early start, and proceeded on very expeditiously until
about noon, when we arrived at the " cascades," and came to a
halt above them, near a small Indian village. These cascades,
or cataracts are formed by a collection of large rocks, in the bed
of the river, which extend, for perhaps half a mile. The cur-
rent for a short distance above them, is exceedingly rapid, and
there is said to be a gradual fall, or declivity of the river, of
about twenty feet in the mile. Over these rocks, and across
the whole river, the watei dashes and foams most furiously, and
with a roar which we heard distinctly at the distance of several
miles.

It is wholly impossible for any craft to make its nCay through
these difficulties, and our light canoes would not live an instant
in them. It is, therefore, necessary to make a portage, either by
carrying the canoes over land to the opposite side of the cataracts,
or by wading in the water near the shore, where the surges are

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 165

lightest, and dragging the unloaded boat through them by a cable.
Our people chose the latter method, as the canoes felt very heavy
and cumbersome, being saturated with the rain which was still
falling rapidly. They were accordingly immediately unloaded,
the baggage placed on the shore, and the men entered the water
to their necks, headed by Captain Thing, and addressed them-
selves to the troublesome and laborious task. In the meantime,
Mr, N., and myself were sent ahead to take the best care of
ourselves that our situation and the surroundins; circumstances
permitted. We found a small Indian trail on the river bank,
which we followed in all its devious windings, up and down hills,
over enormous, piles of rough flinty rocks, through brier bushes,
and pools of water, &c. &c., for about a mile, and descending
near the edge of the river, we observed a number of white men who
had just succeeded in forcing a large barge through the torrent, and
were then warping her into still water near the shore. Upon ap-
proaching them more closely, we i-ecognised, to our astonishment,
our old friend Captain Stewart, with the good missionaries, and
all the rest who left us at Walla-walla on the 4th. Poor fellows!
Every man of them had been over breast deep in water, and the
rain, which was still falling in torrents, was more than sufficient
to drench what the waves did not cover, so that they were most
abundantly soaked and bedraggled. I felt sadly inclined to
laugh heartily at them, but a single glance at the sorry appear-
ance of myself and my companion was sufficient to check the
feeling. We joined them, and aided in kindling a fire to warm
and dry ourselves a little, as there was not a dry rag on us, and
we were all in an ague with cold. After a very considerable
time, we succeeded in igniting the wet timber, and had a tolerably
large fire. We all seated ourselves on the ground around it,
and related our adventures. They had, like ourselves, suffered
somewhat from the head-wind and heavy swells, but unlike us
they had a craft that would weather it easily ; even they, how-

'■■y

166 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

eveH, shipped some water, and made very little progress for the
last two days. They informed us that Captain W.'s canoe
had been dashed to pieces on the rocks above, and that
he and all his crew were thrown into the water, and forced to
swim for their lives. They all escaped, and proceeded down the
river, this morning, in a canoe, hired of the Indians here, one of
whom accompanied them, as pilot.

After a hasty meal of fish, purchased on the spot, our friends
reloaded their boat and got under way, hoping to reach Vancou-
ver by next morning. Mr. N. and myself remained some time
longer here, expecting intelligence from our people behind; we
had begun to feel a little uneasy about them, and thought of re-
turning to look into their situation, when Captain T. came in
haste towards us, with the mortifying intelligence that one canoe
had been stove upon the rocks, and the other so badly split, that
he feared she would not float ; the latter was, however, brought
on by the men, and moored where we had stopped. A man was
then despatched to an Indian village, about five miles below, to
endeavor to procure one or two canoes and a pilot. In the
mean time, we had all to walk back along the circuitous and
almost impassable Indian trail, and carry our wet and heavy
baggage from the spot where the boats had been unloaded. The
distance, as I have stated, was a full mile, and the road so rough
and encumbered as to be scarcely passable. In walking over
many of the large and steep rocks, it was often necessary that
the hands should be used to raise and support the body ; this,
with a load, was inconvenient. Again, in ascending and de-
scending the steep and slippery hills, a single mis-step was cer-
tain to throw us in the mud, and bruise us upon the sharp rocks
which were planted all around. This accident occurred several
times with us all.

Over this most miserable of all roads, with the cold rain dash-
ing and pelting upon us durmg the whole time, until we felt as

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC^ lf57

though we were frozen to the very marrow, did we all have to
travel and return four separate times, before our baggage was
properly deposited. It was by far the most fatiguing, cheerless,
and uncomfortable business in which I was ever engaged, and
truly glad was I to lie down at night on the cold, wet ground,
wrapped in my blankets, out of which I had just wrung the
water, and I think I never slept more soundly or comfortably
than that night.*

I arose the next morning rested and refreshed, though some-
what sore from sundry bruises received on the hills to which I
have alluded.

15th. — The rain still continued falling, but lightly, the weather
calm and cool. The water immediately below the cascades
foams and boils in a thousand eddies, forming little whirlpools,
which, however insignificant they may appear, are exceedingly
dangerous for light canoes, whirling their bows around to the
current, and capsising them in an instant. Near the shore, at
the foot of the cataract, there is a strong backward tow, through
which it is necessary to drag the canoe, by a line, for the dis-
tance of a hundred yards ; here it feels the force of the opposite
current, and is carried on at the rate of seven or eight miles to
the hour.

The man whom we sent yesterday to the village, returned
this morning ; he stated that one canoe only could be had, but
that three Indians, accustomed to the navigation, would accom-
pany us ; that they would soon be with us, and endeavor to re-
pair our damaged boat. In an hour they came, and after the
necessar}'- clamping and caulking of our leaky vessel, we loaded,
and were soon moving rapidly down the river. The rain ceased
about noon, but the sun did not appear during the day.

* 1 could not but recollect at that time, the last injunction of my dear old grand-
mother, not to sleep in damp beds ! !

168 NARKAtlVE OF A JOtJKNEY

lath. — The day was a delightful one ; the sky was robed in a
large flaky cumulus, the glorious sun occasionally bursting
through among the clouds, with dazzling splendor. We rose in
the morning in fine spirits, our Indians assuring us that " King
George," as they called the fort, was but a short distance from
us. At about 11 o'clock, we arrived, and stepped on shore at
the end of our journey.

It is now three days over six months since I left my beloved
home. I, as well as the rest, have been in some situations of dan-
ger, of trial, and of difficulty, but I have passed through them
all unharmed, with a constitution strengthened, and invigorated
by healthful exercise, and a heart which I trust can feel deeply,
sincerely thankful to that kind and overruling Providence who
has watched over and protected me.

We have passed for months through a country swarming with
Indians who thirsted for our blood, and whose greatest pride and
glory consisted in securing the scalp of a white man. Enemies,
sworn, determined enemies to all, both white and red, who in-
trude upon his hunting grounds, the Blackfoot roams the prairie
like a wolf seeking his prey, and springing upon it when unpre-
pared, and at the moment when it supposes itself most secure.
To those who have always enjoyed the comforts and security of
civilized life, it may seem strange that persons who know them-
selves to be constantly exposed to such dangers — who never lie
down at night without the weapons of death firmly grasped in
their hands, and who are in hourly expectation of hearing the
terrific war whoop of the savage, should yet sleep soundly
and refreshingly, and feel themselves at ease ; such however is
the fact. I never in my life enjoyed rest more than when travel-
ling through the country of which I speak. I had become
accustomed to it : I felt constant apprehension certainly, but not
to such an extent as to deprive me of any of the few comforts
which I could command in such an uncomfortable country. The

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 169

guard might pass oiu' tent, and cry " all's well," in his loudest
key, without disturbing my slumbers : but if the slightest unusual
noise occurred, I was awake in an instant, and listening painfully
for a repetition of it.

On the beach in front of the fort , we were met by Mr. Lee,
the missionary, and Dr. John McLoughlin, the chief factor, and
Governor of the Hudson's Bay posts in this vicinity. The Dr.
is a large, dignified and very noble looking man, with a fine ex-
pressive countenance, and remarkably bland and pleasing
manners. The missionary introduced Mr. N. and myself in
due form, and we were greeted and received with a frank and
unassuming politeness which was most peculiarly grateful to
our feelings. He requested us to consider his house our home,
provided a separate room for our use, a servant to wait upon us,
and furnished us with every convenience which we could possibly
wish for. I shall never cease to feel grateful to him for his
disinterested kindness to the poor houseless and travel-worn
strangers.

22

170 AAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

' CHAPTER X.

Fort Vancouver — JlgricuUural and other improvements — Vancouver " camp^' —
approach of the rainy season — Expedition to the Wallammet — The falls — ^1
village of KUkatat Indians — JManner of flattening the head — A Flathead
infant — Brig " JMarj Dacre^' — Preparations for a settlement — Success of
the natvralists — Chinook Indians — their appearance and costume — ^flgue and
fever — Superstitious dread of the Indians — Desertion of the Sandvjich
Islanders from Captain TTyeth^s party — Embarkation for a trip to the
Islands — George, the Indian pilot — Mount Coffin — A visit to the tombs — Su-
perstition— Visit to an Indian house — Fort George — Site of Astoria — A
blind Indian buy — Cruel and unfeeling conduct of the savages — their moral
character — Baker's Bay — Cape Disappointment — Dangerous bar at the en-
trance of the river — The sea beach — Visit of Mr. Ogden — Passage across the
bar — Sea birds — Landsmen at sea — A spei-m. whale — Albatrosses, SJc. — Tro-
pic birds A "school" of tihales — Dolphins— Make the Sandwich Islands —

Oahu— A rhapsody.

Fort Vancouver is situated on the north bank of the Co-
himbia on a large level plain, about a quarter of a mile from the
shore. The space comprised within the stoccade is an oblong
square, of about one hundred, by two hundred and fifty feet.
The houses built of loers and frame-work, to the number of ten
or twelve, are ranged around in a quadrangular form, the one occu-
pied by the doctor being in the middle. In front, and enclosed
on three sides by the buildings, is a large open space, where all the
in-door work of the establishment is done. Here the Indians
assemble with their multifarious articles of trade, beaver, otter,
venison, and various other game, and here, once a week, several
scores of Canadians are employed, beating the furs which have
been collected, in order to free them from dust and vermin.

ACUOSS THE ROCKVT MOUNTAINS, ETC. 171

Mr. N. and myself walked over the farm with the doctor, to
inspect the various improvements which he has made. He has
already several hundred acres fenced in, and under cultivation,
and like our own western prairie land, it produces abundant
crops, particularly of grain, without requiring any manure.
Wheat thrives astonishingly ; I never saw better in any country,
and the various culinary vegetables, potatoes, carrots, parsnips,
&c., are in great profusion, and of the first quality. Indian corn
does not flourish so well as at Walla-walla, the soil not being so
well adapted to it; melons are well flavored, but small ; the greatest
curiosity, however, is the apples, which grow on small trees, the
branches of which would be broken without the support of props.
So profuse is the quantity of fruit that the limbs are covered with
it, and it is actually packed together precisely in the same manner
that onions are attached to ropes when they are exposed for
sale in our markets.

On the farm is a grist mill, a threshing mill, and a saw mill,
the two first, by horse, and the last, by water power; besides
many minor improvements in agricultural and other matters,
which cannot but astonish the stranger from a civilized land,
and which reflect great credit upon the liberal and enlightened
chief factor.

In the propagation of domestic cattle, the doctor has been par-
ticularly successful. Ten years ago a few head of neat cattle
were brought to the fort by some fur traders from California ;
these have now increased to near seven hundred. They are a
large framed, long horned breed, inferior in their milch qualities
to those of the United States, but the beef is excellent, and in
consequence of the mildness of the climate, it is never necessary
to provide them with fodder during the winter, an abundant sup-
ply of excellent pasture being always found.

On the farm, in the vicinity of the fort, are thirty or forty log
huts, v/hich are occupied by the Canadians, and others attached

172 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

to the establishment. These huts are placed in rows, with broad
lanes or streets between them, and the whole looks like a very
neat and beautiful village. The most fastidious cleanliness
appears to be observed ; the women may be seen sweeping the
streets and scrubbing the door-sills as regularly as in our own
proverbially cleanly city.*

Sunday, Septetnber 25th. — Divine service was performed in
the fort this morning by Mr. Jason Lee. This gentleman and
his nephew had been absent some days in search of a suitable
place to establish themselves, in order to fulfil the object of their
mission. They returned yesterday, and intend leaving us to-
morrow with their suite for the station selected, which is upon the
Wallammet river, about sixty miles south of the fort.

In the evening we were gratified by the arrival of Captain
Wyeth from below, who informed us that the brig from Boston,
which was sent out by the company to which Wyeth is attached,
had entered the river, and was anchored about twenty miles
below, at a spot called Warrior's point, near the western entrance
of the Wallammet.

Captain W. mentioned his intention to visit the Wallammet
country, and seek out a convenient location for a fort which he
wishes to establish without delay, and Mr. N. and myself accept-
ed an invitation to accompany him in the morning. He has
brought with him one of the brig's boats, and eight oarsmen, five
of whom are Sandwich Islanders.

We have experienced for several days past, gloomy, lowering,
and showery weather; indeed the sun has scarcely been seen for

* I have given this notice of the suburbs of the fort, as I find it in mj- journal
written at the time; I had reason, subsequently, to change ray opinion with regard
to the scrupulous cleanliness of the Canadians' Indian wives, and particularly after
inspecting the internal economy of the dwellings. What at first struck me as neat
and clean, by an involuntary comparison of it with the extreme filthincss to which
I had been accustomed amongst the Indians, soon revealed itself in its proper light,
and I can freely confess that my first estimate was too high.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 173

a week pasn This is said to indicate the near approach of the
rainy season, which usually sets in about the middle of October,
or even earlier. After this time, until December, there is very
little clear weather, showers or heavy clouds almost constantly
prevailing.

On the 29th, Captain Wyeth, Mr. N., and myself, embai'ked
in the ship's boat for our exploring excursion. We had a good
crew of fine robust sailors, and the copper-colored islanders, — or
Kanakas, as they are called, — did their duty with great alacrity
and good will.

At about five miles bolow the fort, we entered the upper mouth
of the Wallammet. This river is here about half the width of
the Columbia, a clear and beautiful stream, and navigable for
large vessels to the distance of twenty-five miles. It is covered
with numerous islands, the largest of vvhich is that called Wappatoo
Island, about twenty miles in length. The vegetation on the
main land is good, the timber generally pine and post oak, and
the river is margined in many places with a beautiful species of
willow with lai-ge ob-lanceolate leaves like those of the peach,
and white on their under surface. The timber on the islands is
chiefly oak, no pine growing there. At about 10 o'clock we
overtook three men whom Captain W. had sent ahead in a canoe
and we all landed soon after on the beach and dined on a mess
of salmon and peas which we had provided. We were under
way again in the afternoon, and encamped at about sunset.
We have as yet seen no suitable place for an establishment, and
to-morrow we proceed to the falls of the river, about fifteen miles
further. Almost all the land in the vicinity is excellent and well
calculated for cultivation, and several spots which we have
visited, would be admirably adapted to the captain's views, but
that there is not a sufficient extent unincumbered, or which could
be fitted for the purposes of tillage in a space of time short enough

174 NARRATIVi: or A JOURNEY

to be serviceable ; others arc at some seasons inundated, which is
an insurmountable objection.

We embarked early the next morning, and at 11 o'clock
arrived at the falls, after encountering some difficulties from
rapids, through which we had to warp our boat. There are here
three falls on a line of rocks extending across the river, which
forms the bed of the upper channel. The water is precipitated
through deep abrazed gorges, and falls perhaps forty feet at an
angle of about twenty degrees. It was a beautiful sight when
viewed from a distance, but it became grand and almost sublime as
we approached it nearer. I mounted the rocks and stood over
the highest fall, and although the roar of the cataract was almost
deafening, and the rays of the bright sun reflected from the white
a glittering foam threatened to deprive me of sight, yet I became
so absoi'bed in the contemplation of the scene, and the reflections
which were involuntarily excited, as to forget every thing else for
the time, and was only aroused by Captain W. tapping me on
the shoulder, and telling me that every thing was arranged for
our return. While I visited the falls, the captain and his men
had found what they sought for ; and the object of our voyage
being accomplished, we got on board immediately and shaped
our course down the river with a fair wind, and the current in
favor.

About two miles bel^w the cataract is a small village of
Klikatat Indians. Their situation does not appear different from
what we have been accustomed to see in the neighborhood of the
fort. They live in the same sort of miserable loose hovels, and
are the same wretched, squalid looking people. Although
enjoying far more advantages, and having in a much greater
degree the means of rendering themselves comfortable, yet their
mode of living, their garments, their wigwams, and every thing
connected with them, is not much better than the Snakes and

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 175

Bannecks, and very far inferior to that fine, noble-looking race,
the Kayouse, whom wc met on the Grand ronde.

A custom prevalent, and almost universal amongst these In-
dians, is that of flattening, or mashing in the whole front of the
skull, from the superciliary ridge to the crown. The appearance
produced by this unnatural operation is almost hideous, and one
would suppose that the intellect would be materially affected by
it. This, however, does not appear to be the case, as I have
never seen, (with a single exception, the Kayouse,) a race of
people who appeared more shrewd and intelligent. I had a con-
versation on this subject, a few days since, with a chief who
speaks the English language. He said that he had exerted him-
self to abolish the practice in his own tribe, but although his peo-
ple would listen patiently to his talk on most subjects, their ears
weie firmly closed when this was mentioned ; " they would leave
the council fire, one by one, until none but a few squaws and
children were left to drink in the words of the chief." It is even
considered among them a degradation to possess a round head,
and one whose caput has happened to be neglected in his infancy,
can never become even a subordinate chief in his tribe, and is
treated with indifference and disdain, as one who is unworthy a
place amongst them.

The flattening of the head is practiced by at least ten or twelve
distinct tribes of the lower country , the Klikatats, Kalapooyahs,
and Multnomahs, of the Wallarnmet, and its vicinity ; the Chi-
nooks, Klatsaps, Klatstonis, Kowalitsks, Katlammets, Killemooks,
and Chekalis of the lower Columbia and its tributaries, and pro-
bably by others both north and south. The tribe called Flat-
heads, or Salish, who reside near the sources of the Oregon,
have long since abolished this custom.

The mode by which the flattening is effected, varies consider-
ably with the different tribes. The Wallarnmet Indians {dace
the infant, soon afier birth, upon a board, to the edges of which

176 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

are attached little loops of hempen cord or leather, and other
similar cords are passed across and back , in a zig-zag manner,
through these loops, enclosing the child, and binding it firmly-
down. To the upper edge of this board, in which is a depression
to receive the back part of the head, another smaller one is
attached by hinges of leather, and made to lie obliquely upon the
forehead, the force of the pressure being regulated by several
strings attached to its edge, which are passed through holes in
the board upon which the infant is lying, and secured there.

The mode of the Chinooks, and others near the sea, differs
widely from that of the upper Indians, and appears somewhat
less barbarous and cruel. A sort of cradle is formed by exca-
vating a pine log to the depth of eight or ten inches. The child
is placed in it on a bed of little grass mats, and bound down in
the manner above described. A little boss of tightly plaited and
woven grass is then applied to the forehead, and secured by a
cord to the loops at the side. The infant is thus suffered to remain
from four to eight months, or until the sutures of the skull have in
some measure united, and the bone become solid and firm. It is
seldom or never taken from the cradle, except in case of severe
illness, until the flattening process is completed.

I saw, to-day, a young child fi'om whose head the board had
just been removed. It was, without exception, the most frightful
and disgusting looking object that I ever beheld. The whole
front of the head was completely flattened, and the mass of brain
being forced back, caused an enormous projection there. The
poor little creature's eyes protruded to the distance of half an
inch, and looked inflamed and discolored, as did all the sur-
rounding parts. Although I felt a kind of chill creep over me
from the contemplation of such dire deformity, yet there was
something so stark-staring, and absolutely queer in the physiog-
nomy, that I could not repress a smile; and when the mother
amused the little object and made it laugh, it looked so irresist-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 177

fbly, SO terribly ludicrous, that I and those who were with me,
burst into a simultaneous roar, which frightened it and made it
cry, 'in which predicament it looked much less horrible than
before.

On the 1st, of November we arrived at the brig. She was
moored, head and stern, to a large rock near the lower mouth of
the Wallammet. Captain Lambert with his ship's company, and
our own mountain men, were all actively engaged at various
employments; carpenters, smiths, coopers, and other artisans
were busy in their several vocations ; domestic animals, pigs,
sheep, goats, poultry, &c., were roaming about as if perfectly at
home, and the whole scene looked so like the entrance to a
country village, that it was difficult to fancy oneself in a howling
wilderness inhabited only by the wild and improvident Indian,
and his scarcely more free and fearless neighbors, the bear and
the wolf. An excellent temporary storehouse of twigs, thatched
with grass, has been erected, in which has been deposited the ex-
tensive assortment of goods necessary for the settlement, as well
as a number of smaller ones, in which the men reside. It is intend-
ed as soon as practicable, to build a large and permanent dwelling of
logs, which will also include the store and trading establishment,
and form the groundwork for an American fort on the river
Columbia.

bth. — Mr. N. and myself are now residing on board the brig,
and pursuing with considerable success our scientific researches
through the neighborhood. I have shot and prepared here
several new species of birds, and two or three undescribed
quadj^upeds, besides procuring a considerable number, which,
though known to naturalists, are rare, and therefore valuable.
My companion is of course in his element ; the forest, the plain,
the rocky hill, and the mossy bank yield him a rich and most
abundant supply.

23

178 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

We are visited daily by considerable numbers of Chinook
and Klikatat Indians, many of whom bring us provisions of
various kinds, salmon, deer, ducks, &c., and receive in return,
powder and shot, knives, paint, and Indian rum, i. e. rum and
water in the propoi-tion of one part of the former to two of the
latter. Some of these Indians would be handsome were it not
for the abominable practice, which, as I have said, is almost
universal amongst them, of destroying the form of the head.
The features of many are regular, though often devoid of expres-
sion, and the persons of the men generally are rather symme-
trical ; their stature is low, with light sinewy limbs, and remark-
ably small delicate hands. The women are usually more
rotund, and, in some instances, even approach obesity. The
principal clothing worn by them is a sort of short petticoat made
of Strang of pine bark or twisted hempen strings, tied around
the loins like a marro. This article they call a kalaquarte; and
is often their only dress ; some, however, cover the shoulders
with a blanket, or robe made of muskrat or hare skins sewed
together.

A disease of a very fatal character is prevalent among these
Indians ; many of them have died of it ; even some of those in the
neighborhood of the fort, where medical assistance was always
at hand. The symptoms are a general coldness, soreness and
stiffness of the limbs and body, with violent tertian ague.
Its fatal termination is attributable to its tendency to attack
the liver, which is generally affected in a few days after
the first symptoms are developed. Several of the white people
attached to the fort have been ill with it, but no deaths have oc-
curred amongst them, the disease in their case having yielded to
the simple tonic remedies usually employed at home. This I have
no doubt would be equally the case with the Indians, were they

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 179

willing to submit to proper restrictions during the time of admi-
nlsterino; medicine.

Captain Lambert informs me that on his first landing here the
Indians studiously avoided his vessel, and all kind of intercourse
with his crew, from the supposition, (which they have since ac-
knowledged) that the malady which they dread so much was thus
conveyed. As in a short time it became desirable, on account
of procuring supplies of provision, to remove this impression,
some pains were taken to convince the Indians of their error, and
they soon visited the ship without fear.

Mr. N. and myself have been anxious to escape the wet and
disagreeable winter of this region, and visit some other portion
of the country, where the inclemency of the season will not inter-
fere with the prosecution of our respective pursuits. After some
reflection and consultation, we concluded to take passage in the
brig, which will sail in a k\v weeks for the Sandwich Islands. We
shall remain there about three months, and return to the river in
time to commence our peregrinations in the spring.

2Sd. — At Fort Vancouver. A letter was received yesterday
by Dr. McLoughlin, from Captain Wycth, dated Walla-walla,
stating that the twelve Sandwich Islanders whom he took with
him a week since for a journey to Fort Hall, had deserted, each
taking a horse. They had no doubt heard from some of their
countrymen, whom they met at the fort, of the difficulties of the
route before them, which were probably very much exaggerated.
Captain W. is on the alert to find them, and is sending men on
their trail in every direction, but it is more than probable that
they will not be overtaken, and the consequence will then be, that
the expedition must be abandoned, and the captain return to the
fort to spend the winter.

December Sd, — Yesterday Mr. N. and myself went down the
river to the brig, and this morning early the vessel left her

180 NARRATIVE OF A JOTJRNEV

moorings, and with her sails unloosed stood out into the channel
way. The weather was overcast, and we had but little wind, so
that our progress during the morning was necessarily slow. In
the afternoon we ran aground in one and a half fathoms water,
but as the tide was low, we were enabled to get her clear in the
evening. The navigation of this river is particularly difficult in
consequence of numerous shoals and sand bars, and good pilots
are scarce, the Indians alone officiating in that capacity. To-
wards noon the next day, a Kowalitsk Indian with but one eye,
who said his name was George, boarded us, and showed a letter
which he carried, written by Captain McNeall, in the Hudson's
Bay service, recommending said George as a capable and expe-
rienced pilot. We accepted his services gladly, and made a bar-
gain with him to take us into Baker's bay near the cape, for four
bottles of rum; with the understanding, however, that every time
the brig ran aground, one bottle of the precious liquor was to be
forfeited. George agreed to the terms, and taking his station
at the bow, gave his orders to the man at the wheel like one
having authority, pointing with his finger when he wished a de-
viation from the common course, and pronouncing in a loud voice
the single word ookook, (here.)

On the afternoon of the 4th, we passed along a bold precipi-
tous shore, near which we observed a large isolated rock, and
on it a great number of canoes, deposited above the reach of the
tides. This spot is called Mount Coffin, and the canoes contain
the dead bodies of Indians. They are carefully wrapped in
blankets, and all the personal property of the deceased, bows and
arrows, guns, salmon spears, ornaments, 6z;c., are placed within,
and around his canoe. The vicinity of this, and all other ceme-
teries, is held so sacred by the Indians, that they never approach
it, except to make similar deposites ; they will often even travel
a considerable distance out of their course, in order to avoid in-
truding upon the sanctuai'y of their dead.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 181

We came to anchor near this rock in the evening, and Captain
Lambert, Mr. N., and myself visited the tombs. We were espe-
cially careful not to touch or disarrange any of the fabrics, and
it was well we were so, for as we turned to leave the place, we
found that we had been narrowly watched by about twenty In-
dians, whom we had not seen when we landed from our boat.
After we embarked, we observed an old withered crone with a
long stick or wand in her hand, who approached, and walked
over the ground which we had defiled with our sacrilegious
tread, waving her enchanted rod over the mouldering bones, as
if to purify the atmosphere around, and exorcise the evil spirits
which we had called up.

I have been very anxious to procure the skulls of some of
these Indians, and should have been willing, so far as I alone
was concerned, to encounter some risk to effect my object, but I
have refrained on account of the difficulty in which the ship and
crew would be involved, if the sacrilege should be discovered ;
a prejudice might thus be excited against our little colony
which would not soon be overcome, and might prove a serious
injury.

6th. — The weather is almost constantly rainy and squally,
making it unpleasant to be on deck ; we are therefore confined
closely to the cabin, and are anxious to get out to sea as soon as
possible, if only to escape this.

In the afternoon, the captain and myself went ashore in the
long-boat, and visited several Indian houses upon the beach.
These are built of roughly hewn boards and logs, usually covered
with pine bark, or matting of their own manufacture, and open at
the top, to allow the smoke to escape. In one of these houses
we found men, women, and children, to the number of fifty-two,
seated as usual, upon the ground, around numerous fires, the
smoke from which filled every cranny of the building, and to us
was almost stifling, although the Indians did not appear to suffer

182 NAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

any inconvenience from it. Although living in a state of the
most abject poverty, deprived of most of the absolute necessaries
of life, and frequently enduring the pangs of protracted starva-
tion, yet these poor people appear happy and contented. They
are scarcely qualified to enjoy the common comforts of life,
even if their indolence did not prevent the attempt to procure
them.

On the afternoon of the 8th, we anchored off Fort George, as
it is called, although perhaps it scarcely deserves the name of a
fort, being composed of but one principal house of hewn boards,
and a number of small Indian huts surrounding it, presenting the
appearance, from a distance, of an ordinary small farm house
with its appropriate outbuildings. There is but one white man
residing here, the superintendent of the fort ; but there is probably
no necessity for more, as the business done is not very consider-
able^ most of the furs being taken by the Indians to Vancouver.
The establishment is, however, of importance, independent of its
utility as a trading post, as it is situated within view of the
dangerous cape, and intelligence of the arrival of vessels can be
communicated to the authorities at Vancouver in time for them
to render adequate assistance to such vessels by supplying ihem
with pilots, 6z;c. This is the spot where once stood the fort
established by the direction of our honored countryman, John
Jacob Astor. One of the chimneys of old Fort Astoria is still
standing, a melancholy monument of American enterprise and
domestic misrule. The spot where once the fine parterre over-
looked the river, and the bold stoccade enclosed the neat and
substantial fort, is now overgrown with weeds and bushes, and
can scarce be distinguished from the primeval forest which
surrounds it on every side.

Captain Lambert, Mr. N. and myself visited the Indian houses
in the neighborhood. In one of them we saw a poor little boy
about three years of age who had been blind from his birth. He

I

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY 183

was sitting on the gi'ound near the fire, surrounded by a quantity
of fish bones which he had been picking. Our sympathy was
very much excited for the poor little unfortunate, particularly as
he was made a subject for the taunting jibes and laughter of a
number of men and women, squatting around, and his mother sat
by with the most cruel apathy and unconcern, and only smiled
at the commiseration which we expressed for her innocent and
peculiarly unhappy offspring. It seems difficult to believe that
those who possess the form and countenance of human creatures,
should so debase the natural good feelings which God has im-
planted in them : but these ignorant and gross v/retches seemed
to take credit to themselves in rendering this afflicted being
unhappy, and smiled and looked at each other when we
endeavored to infuse a little pity into them. The child had evi-
dently been very much neglected, and almost starved, and the
little articles which we presented it, (in the hope, that the Indians
on seeing us manifest an interest in it, would treat it more ten-
derly,) it put to its mouth eagerly, but finding them not eatable,
threw them aside in disgust. Oh ! how I wished at that moment
for a morsel of bread to give this little famished and neglected
creature. We soon left the place, and returned to the brig, but
I could think of nothina; durinnj the remainder of the evening but
the little blind child, and at night I dreamed I saw it, and it raised
its dim and sightless orbs, and stretched out its little emaciated
arms towards me, as if begging for a crumb to prevent its
starving.

These people, as I have already said, do not appear to possess
a particle of natural good feeling, and in their moral character,
they are little better than brutes. In the case of the blind boy,
they seemed to take pride in tormenting it, and rendering it
miserable, and vied with each other in the skill and dexterity
with which they applied to it the most degrading and insulting
epithets. These circumstances, with others, in regard to their

184 ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC.

moral character, which I shall not even mention, have tended
very considerably to lower the estimation in which I have always
held the red man of the forest, and serve to strengthen the
opinion which I had long since formed, that nothing but the intro-
duction of civilization, with its good and wholesome laws, can
ever render the Indian of service to himself, or raise him from
the state of wretchedness which has so long characterized his
expiring race.

The next morning, we ran down into Baker's bay, and anchored
within gunshot of the cape, when Captain Lambert and my-
self went on shore in the boat, to examine the channel, and
decide upon the prospect of getting out to sea. This passage is
a very dangerous one, and is with reason dreaded by mariners.
A wide bar of sand extends from Cape Disappointment to the
opposite shore, — called Point Adams, — and with the exception of
a space, comprehending about half a mile, the sea at all times
breaks furiously, the surges dashing to the height of the mast
head of a ship, and with the most terrific roaring. Sometimes
the water in the channel is agitated equally with that which
covers the whole length of the bar, and it is then a matter
of imminent risk to attempt a passage. Vessels have occasion-
ally been compelled to lie in under the cape for several weeks,
in momentary expectation of the subsidence of the dangerous
breakers, and they have not unfrequently been required to
stand offshore, from without, until the crews have suffered ex-
tremely for food and water. This circumstance must ever form
a barrier to a permanent settlement here ; the sands, which com-
pose the bar, are constantly shifting, and changing the course
and depth of the channel, so that none but the small coasting
vessels in the service of the company can, with much safety, pass
back and forth.

Mr. N. and myself visited the sea beach, outside the cape, in
the hope of finding peculiar marine shells, but although we

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 185

searched assiduously during the morning, we had but little suc-
cess. We saw several deer in the thick forest on the side of the
cape, and a great number of black shags, or cormorants, flying
over the breakers, and resting upon the surf-washed rocks.

On the morning of the 11th, Mr. Hanson, the mate, returned
from the shore, and reported that the channel was smooth ; it
was therefore deemed safe to attempt the passage immediately.
While we were weighing our anchor, we descried a brig steering
towards us, which soon crossed the bar, and ran up to within
speaking distance. It was one of the Hudson's Bay Company's
coasters, and, as we were getting under way, a boat put off from
her, and we were boarded by Mr. Ogden, a chief factor from one
of the Company's forts on the coast. He informed us that the
brig left Naus about the first of October, but had been delayed
by contrary winds, and rough, boisterous weather. Thus the
voyage which usually requires but about eight days for its perform-
ance, occupied upwards of two months. They had been on an
allowance of a pint of water per day, and had suffered considerably
for fresh provision. Mr. Ogden remained with us but a short
time, and we stood out past the cape.

When we entered the channel, the water which had before
been so smooth, became suddenly v.ery much agitated, swelling,
and roaring, and foaming around us, as if the surges were up-
heaved from the very bottom, and as our vessel would fall in the
trough of the sea, pitching down like a huge leviathan seeking its
native depths, I could not but feel positive, that the enormous
Avave, which hung like a judgment over our heads, would inevita-
bly engulph us ; but the good ship, like a creature instinct with
life, as though she knew her danger, gallantly rose upon it, and
but dipped her bows into its crest, as if in scorn of its mighty and
irresistible power. This is my first sea voyage, and everything
upon the great deep is of course novel and interesting to me.

During the scene which I have just described, although I was

24

186 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

aware of oui- imminent peril, and the tales that I had frequently-
heard of vessels perishing in this very spot, and in precisely such
a sea, recurred to my mind with some force, yet I could not but
feel a kind of secret and wild joy at finding myself in a situation
of such awful and magnificent grandeur. I thought of the lines
of Shelley, and repeated them to myself in a kind of ecstasy.

" And see'st thou, and hear'st thou,
And fear'st thou, and fear'st thou, "■
And ride we not free
O'er the terrible sea,
I and thou ?"

In about twenty minutes we had escaped all the danger, and
found ourselves riding easily in a beautiful placid sea. We set
the sails, which had been shortened on the bar, and the gallant
vessel feeling the impulse of the wind, rushed aliead as if exulting
in the victory she had achieved.

We saw, outside the bar, a great number of birds, of various
kinds — ducks of several species, two or three kinds of guillemots,
(U?'ia,) — shags, (PJialacrocorax,) among which was a splendid
new species,* brown albatross, (^Diomedea fusca,) the common
dusky pelican, (P. fuscus,) and numerous Pi'ocellariee, — also,
the beautiful marine animal, called Medusa. It is a cartilagi-
nous or gummy substance, flattish, and about the size of a man's
hand, with a tube projecting from it, expanded or flared out like
the end of a clarionet. Within the body, near the posterior part is
a large ovate ball, of a bright orange color, resembling the yolk
of an ess^.

14^A.— There is to-day a heavy sea running, and we lands-
men are affording some merriment to the seasoned crew, by our
" lubberly" manner of " fetching away" in our attempts to walk

* See appendix.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC, 187

the deck. I find, for myself, that I must for the present consent
to relinquish an erect and dignified carriage, and adopt the less
graceful, but safer method of clinging to the rails, &c., to assist
locomotion. One thing, however, I cannot but feel thankful for,
which is, that I have never felt in the least degree sea sick ; and
having so far escaped, I have no apprehension for the future.

Saw, in the afternoon, a large sperm, whale, lazily rolling
about a quarter of a mile ahead of the vessel. It occasionally
spouted up a stream of water to the height of six or seven feet,
but was perfectly quiescent until wc approached near it, when it
suddenly sank away and was lost to sight.

20th. — We observe constantly around us several species of
dark albatross, pufiins, petrels, &c. They follow closely in our
wake, sailing over the svirges with astonishing ease and grace,
frequently skimming so near the surface that the eye loses them
for an instant between the swells, but at such times they never
touch the water, although we not un frequently see them resting
upon it.

22d. — The weather has become very mild, the thermometer
ranging from 65° to 75°, indicating our approach to the tropics ;
and as a further proof of it, we saw, this morning, a beautiful
tropic bird, (Ph(Pton.) It sails around the vessel with an easy,
graceful sweep, its long train being very conspicuous, and suffi-
ciently distinguishing it from a tern, which, in other respects, it
closely resembles. Its voice is very much like that of the great
tern, {Sterna hirundo,) being a harsh, loud, and gutteral croak,
emitted while sailing high, and 'vith its head curved downwards,
examining the surface of the sea in search of its finny prey.

SOth. — For the last four or five days we have been making
but little headway, having been, occasionally, almost becalmed,
and not going at any time more than two, or two and a half
knots. The weather is so warm that our upper garments have
become uncomfortable, the mean of the thermometer being about

188 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

77^, but we have, for several days past, been favored with cool,
refreshing showers in the evening, which tend very much to our
comfort.

Saw, this afternoon, in latitude 23° 20' N., longitude 149° 30'
W., a " school" of eight or ten sperm, whales. Several passed
within twenty yards of the vessel, and we had an excellent
opportunity of observing them. They were so near that w^e
could distinctly see the expansion of the nostrils as they spouted
the brine before them, with a noise like the blowing of a mighty
forge. There were among them several calves, which were
sporting around their dams, sometimes dashing against them
head foremost, and gliding half out of w ater upon the backs of
the old ones.

We were followed to-day by several large dolphins. I had'
often heard of the surpassing beauty of this fish, but my imagi-
nation had never pictured any thing half so splendid as I then
witnessed. We were going at about three knots, and the fish
easily kept up with us, swimming in the wake without any appa^
rent exertion, or even motion of their fins. At one moment they
appeared to be of a clear, uniform grass-green, glistening and
sparkling in the waves like emeralds, and in the next, they had
changed their color wholly, appearing of an iridescent purple,
with large oval spots of green and shining red ; again, they
were speckled and striped with all the colors of the rainbow,
but without any one appearing predominant, and these changes
were going on every minute while they remained near us, which
was for the space of half an hour. When caught, and taken
from the water, it is said that these changes occur precisely as
when in their native element, with scarcely any diminution of
brilliancy; and as vitality becomes less active, the variations are
less frequent, until the colors finally settle into a dark greenish
hue, and the animal is dead.

January 2d, 1835. — This evening at 5 o'clock, we made dis-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 189

tinctly, the head laud of three of the Sandwich group, Hawaii,
Maui, and Morokai, being within about eighteen miles of the
nearest. We have now light trade winds which bear us at the
rate of five knots, and an unusually smooth and placid sea. This,
combined with the free, unwavering breeze, is considered by our
mariners as a fortunate circumstance for us, particularly, as we
shall approach, and perhaps pass the dangerous rocky coast of
Maui in the night. It is much more common for vessels to feel
the land breeze, as they near it, setting them off shore, while the
trades, operating in a contrary direction, they become unmanage-
able, and not unfrequently founder upon the rocks. This has
been the fate of a number of vessels approaching as we are at
present, and our skilful and careful captain, always on the alert
and anxious in situations of apprehended danger, is at this moment
pacing the quarter-deck, giving directions regarding the manage-
ment of the vessel, in tones as firm, and with a decision as
prompt as ever; but through it all, he cannot conceal the anxiety
under which he is evidently laboring. We passengers consider
ourselves perfectly safe under such good guardianship, but can-
not help feeling for the captain, who to insure our safety is losing
the repose which he absolutely requires.

On the afternoon of the 4th, we ran by several islands, and all
within five miles. We could distinctly see the lofty and precipi-
tous rocks of the coast, the deep ravines between them, and, by
the assistance of our glasses, the green and rich looking vege-
tation of the interrupted plains.

At noon next day, we made the island of Oahu, our destination,
distant about forty miles. In the evening we were enabled to
run, the moon shining brightly, and the atmosphere being unu-
sually free from haze. At 10 o'clock we were within a few
miles of the island, so that we could distinctly see a number of
lights from the huts on the beach ; we let go our anchor off a

190 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

point called Diamond hill ; and soon after, the mountain ranges,
and the quiet valleys echoed the report of our pilot gun.

As I leaned over the rail this eveninsj, gazing at the shoi'e on
our quarter, with its lofty peaks, and lovely sleeping vales, clearly
defined by the light of the full orbed moon, T thought I never had
witnessed any thing so perfectly enchanting. The warm breeze
which came in gentle puffs from the land, seemed to bear fra-
grance on its wings, and to discourse of the rich and sunny
climes from which it came. The whole scene was to me like
fairy land. I thought of Captain Cook, and fancied his having
been here, and gazing with delighted eyes upon the very pros-
pect before me, little dreaming, that after all he had endured, he
should here be sacrificed by the very people to whom he hoped
to prove a benefactor and friend. The noise and bustle on deck,
sailors running to and fro making the ship " snug" for harbor,
and all the preparations for an arrival, effectually banished my
meditations, and I descended to my state room, to sleep away the
tedious hours, 'till the morrow should reveal all the new and
strange features of the land to which we had come.

ACROSS THE ROOKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 191

CHAPTER XI.

Ilonoruru — J\''ative canoes— Amphibious habits — Captain Charlton, his Britanic
J\lajesty''s consul — JMr. Jones, the American consul — reception by him — Desj-
cription of the town, and of the natives — Party-colored hair of the luomen —
The pagoda — A visit from Rev. Hiram Bingham, the missionary — Opiniotis
regarding tlie missionary fraternity — First view of the king, Kauikeaouli —
his train — Seaman's chapel — A visit to the native church — Kinau and Keku-
anoa — Orderly conduct of the natives durins" worship — Introduction to the
king — His fondness for the chase, ayid athletic exercises — JVativefood — Man-
ner of eating — The rumi-rumi — its efficacy — A Lu au party — The valley of
JVuano — A visit to the Pari — The last battle of Tamehameha—A feast —
Manner of cooking — A party of native ladies — An adventure.

Early on the morning of the 5th, Mr. Reynolds, the deputy-
pilot, boarded us in a whale boat manned by natives, and accom-
panied by two American gentlemen, residents of the town of Ho-
noruru, — Captain William S. Hinckley and P. A. Brinsmade,
Esq. Our anchor was soon weighed, and with a fine, (tee. wind,
we rounded Diamond hill, and passed along a beautiful indenta-
tion in the shore, called Waititi bay, within sight of a large coral
reef, by which the whole island is surrounded. We very soon
came in view of the lovely, sylvan looking village of Honoruru.
The shore below the town from Waititi, to a considerable dis-
tance above, is fringed with graceful cocoanut trees, with here
and there a pretty little grass cottage, reposing under their
shade. As we approached the harbor, these cottages became
more numerous, until at last they appeared thickly grouped to-
gether, with occasionally a pretty garden dividing them. The

192 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

fort, too, which fronts the ocean, with its clean, white washed walls,
and cannon frowning from the embrazures, adds very much to
the effect of the scene ; while behind, the noble hills and fertile
valleys between, clothed with the richest verdure, soften down
and mellow the whole, and render the prospect indescribably
beautiful.

On nearing the shore, we observed some scores of curiously
formed canoes, with large outriggers, which had just put off, and
were bound out on a fishing excursion. A number of these
passed close to our vessel, and usually paused when opposite,
that the denuded mariners might have an opportunity of survey-
ing the strangers, and of bidding them welcome to their shores,
by a loud and gay Aroha. Near the land a number of natives,
of both sexes, were swimming and playing in the surf, and
diving to the bottom searching for echince, and sea weeds, re-
maining under the water for a considerable time, while their
heels were seen moving to and fro above the surface.

Our brig soon entered the narrow channel, opposite the harbor,
and with a light, but steady breeze, stood in close to the town
and let go her anchor within a hundred yards of the shore. As
we were about leaving the vessel, Captain Charlton, H. B. M.
consul, and Captain W. Darby of the H. B. Co.'s brig Eagle
came on board, and gave Mr. N. and myself a passage to the
shore in their boat. They walked with us to the house of Mr.
Jones, the American consul, to whom T had a letter from my
friend Doctor M. Burrough, of Philadelphia. We were received
by this gentleman in a manner calculated to make us feel per-
fectly at home ; a good and comfortable house was immediately
provided for us, and every assistance was offered in forwarding
ourviews. We dined at the sumptuous table of W.French, Esq., an
American gentleman, and one of the most thriving merchants of
the town, and were here introduced to several highly respectable
foreign residents, Captain E. Grimes, Doctor Thomas, Dr. Rooke,

ACROSS THE ROCKY BIOUNTAINS, ETC. 193

Mr. Paty, and others. In the afternoon we strolled out with two
or three gentlemen to view the village and its environs.

The town of Honoruru contains about three hundred houses,
the great majority of which are composed of grass exclusively,
and those occupied by the natives consist of a single room.
Others, in which many of the foreigners reside, are partitioned
with boards, and form as comfortable and agreeable residences
as could be desired in a climate always warm. There are some
few houses of frame, and several of coral rock, built by the resi-
dent merchants and missionaries; but they are certainly not
superior, except in being more durable, to those of grass, and
probably not so comfortable in the intensely hot seasons. The
houses are scattered about without any regard to regularity, the
hard, clay passage-ways winding amongst them in every direc-
tion ; but an air of neatness and simple elegance prervades the
whole, which cannot fail to make a favorable impression on the
stranger.

The natives ax'e generally remarkably well formed, of a dark
copper color, with pleasant and rather intellectual countenances,
and many of the women are handsome.

The dress of the men, not in the employment of the whites,
consists of a large piece of native cloth, called a Tapa, or a robe
of calico thrown loosely round the body, somewhat like the
Roman toga, and knotted on the left shoulder. The women wear
a loose gown of calico, or native cloth, fastened tightly round the
neck, but not bound at the waist, and often with the addition of
several yards of cotton cloth tied round above the hips.

Their hair is generally of a beautiful glossy black, and of un-
usual fineness ; it is folded around the back part of the head,
very much in the manner common to our ladies at home, and
splendid tortoise shell combs, of their own manufacture, are used
to confine it. They display much taste in the arrangement of
wild flowers amongst their hair, and a common ornament for the

194 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

forehead is the Re of beautiful yellow feathers which is bound
upon it. I have repeatedly seen women with hair of two, and, in
some instances, of three distinct colors. Deep black and chestnut-
brown ; not promiscuously mingled throughout, but lying in
separate masses ; and in the rare instances of which I have
spoken, they were black, brown, and a kind of ash color, giving
to the head a most singular appearance. I had supposed that
this party-colored character of the hair was the etfect of art, but
was soon informed to the contrary, and perceived that by the
natives themselves it was considered a deformity.
' 8th. — Mr. N. and myself are now fairly domiciliated. We occu-
py a large and commodious room, in a building called the Pagoda,
which is in a central part of the town ; from our front windows
we have a fine view of the harbor and the shipping, and from a
balcony in the rear, we can see almost the entire length of the
lovely valley of Nuano, with its bold and rugged rocks, and the
luxuriant verdure on their sides; while nearer, the little square
taro patches, crowded together over the intermediate plain, look
like pretty garden plots, as the' broad green leaves of the plant
are tinted by the sunbeams.

In the afternoon, a gentleman somewhat past middle age, in
a plain, but neat garb, called upon me, and introduced himself
as the Rev. Hiram Bingham, one of the missionaries resident
upon the island. He gave me a very interesting account of the
first landing and establishment of the missionaries at the Sand-
wich Islands, and discoursed very pleasantly upon ordinary
* topics for half an hour. As Mr. N. was absent on a concholo-
gical excursion, I had the good man all to myself, and I may
truly say, I have rarely spent a half hour more agreeably. I
was particularly interested in Mr. Bingham, from the circum-
stance of his being one of the oldest missionaries at these islands,
and from the knowledge (which I had before acquired) of the
very great influence he had exerted in the establishment of the

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 195

iis"siorfe, and of the excellent condition to which they had attain-
ed under his supervision and guardianship.

It is well known to all who visit the Sandwich Islands, as well
as to many at home who have friends residing there, that the
missionaries are exceedingly unpopular amongst the resident fo-
reigners. Why it is, or should be so, I will not stop to inquire,
but will merely remark, that so far as my own intercourse with
these missionaries has extended, and according to the opportuni-
ties I have had of judging of the relative merits of the case, my
opinion decidedly is, that there is no good and sufficient reason
for this ill-feeling. Who are the missionaries ? They are men
who have left the homes of their childhood, the parents, the bro-
thers, the sisters, the friends of their bosoms, and for what ? To
dwell in distant lands, among the uncivilized and the barbarous.;
to labor for these with all the energy of their minds and bodies;
and for this they receive so trifling a compensation, that nothing
except the reward of a good conscience, and of a life spent in the
noblest service that can engage the bodily and mental powers of
a Christian, could ever induce them to engage in it. Why, then,
should they be opposed 1 Why should those calling themselves
Christians, take every possible opportunity of thwarting and
renderino; null the labors of men such as these? Grant that
there may be bad and designing persons among them, does this
circumstance affect the cause itself? Surely not. Why then
should not the foreigners, instead of opposing and laboring to
subvert their measures, endeavor to aid these devoted people
in their most laborious task, or if they do not aid, let them at
least assume a neutrality, and neither place themselves in the
ranks of opposition, nor endeavor to induce others to do so.

10th. — This morning I saw the king for the first time. He is
a very young man, only about twenty years of age, of ordinary
size, and rather ordinary appearance. He was dressed in a little
blue jacket, such as is worn by sailors when ashore, white panta-

196 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

loons, and common black hat. He was walking in the street at
a rapid, and not very dignified gate, and was followed closely by
about twenty natives. Some of these were rather fantastically
dressed, with old naval coats and rusty epaulets, which had seen
long service, and huge sabres with iron scabbards, which jingled
on the ground as the wearer stalked majestically along. Others
were habited plainly, like their master, and some few were of the
true tatterdemalion school. I had the curiosity to follow the
royal escort for a little way to see what would become of them
all ; they soon turned a corner and halted near a little waggon
which had just stopped. The king approached the vehicle and
handed from it an old and venerable looking native, (who I
afterwards learned was the chief Kekeoeva, the former guardian
of the king,) and they walked off arm in arm in a very affection-
ate manner, followed, as before, by the motley group of retainers.

The natives have very generally become acquainted with the
pursuits of my companion and myself, and at almost all hours of
the day, our mansion is beseiged by men, women and children.
Some bring shells, pearls, living birds, cocoanuts, bananas, &c.,
to sell, and others are attracted by curiosity to see us, which is
no doubt much excited in re2;ard to the use which we intend
making of all the strange things they bring us.

Sunday, 11th. — Mr. Jones, the consul, called for us this
morning, and we accompanied him to the Seamen's chapel in
our neighborhood, the only church in the town in which English
service is performed. The chapel is a handsome building of
adobes, or sun-dried bricks, lately erected, and, as its name im-
ports, is intended chiefly for the benefit of the mariners who visit
the island. It is surmounted by a handsome dome and belfry of
wood, from which the bell was pealing out its solemn notes as we
approached it. The Rev. John Deill, the pastor, officiated, to
whom we were introduced at the conclusion of the service.

In the afternoon, Mr. N. and myself walked with the consul to

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 197

the native church, at the lower extremity of the town. This is
an enormous building, one hundred and ninety-six feet in length
by sixty in breadth, and capable of containing four thousand
people. It is built in the native style, of grass tied in bundles on
a rude frame work of sticks, and the ridge pole, which extends
along the whole length of the apex of the roof within, is support-
ed by numerous roughly hewn pillars driven into the ground.
The natives, in great numbers, were flocking to the church ; men
in every variety of costume, from the plain and dignified dress of
the European gentleman, to the simple and primitive tapa or
native cloth ; and women, from the gay hat and feathers, silk
gowns and stays of polished life, to the light and much better
adapted robe of the country, with its invariable accompaniment,
the pau or waist-fillet of figured calico. While we were stand-
ing, surveying the moving throng, we observed a little two
wheeled cart approach, drawn by four men in the native dress, in
which sat one of the great rotund beauties of the island, attired in
gay silk, with a large black hat, from which drooped a magni-
ficent ostrich feather. This was Kinau, the ex-queen, and wife
of Kekuanoa, the commandante of the fort, commonly called the
colonel. At the door of the chui'ch she was assisted to dis-
mount ; and as she swept along by us and entered the aisle, she
made us a low and graceful bow, tossing back her great head,
and looking around upon the company assembled, with the air
of one who expected profound admiration and unlimited homage.
In the church, we were invited by Kekuanoa to take a seat on the
bench beside him and his wife ; and when Mr. Bingham commenced
the service by reading a native hymn, Kinau did me the honor to
present me with her book, pointing to the place with a dignified
and patronising air, which I acknowledged with all suitable
respect.

The sermon, in the native language, by Mr. Bingham, was
delivered in an easy and fluent manner, and in the whole of the

198 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

great concourse there was scarcely a movement during the
service. All seemed deeply engaged in the business for which
they had assembled ; and as I looked around upon the quiet and
attentive multitude, a comparison with the wild and idolatrous
scenes which their assemblies exhibited in times past was irresist-
ibly forced upon me.

A few days after this I was introduced by Captain Charlton,
his Britanic majesty's consul, to the king Kauikeaouli, or
Tameiiameha III., as he is sometimes called. He was accom-
panied by John Young, one of his prime favorites, a fine, noble
looking young man, who I thought looked much more like a king
than his master. His majesty was very condescending and kind.
He conversed easily and freely, though in broken English, and
having understood that I had been somewhat of a traveller, was
very curious to hear my adventures through the wild regions of the
west. The stories of buffalo and grizzly bear hunting pleased
him particularly, and his dark eye actually glittered as I
recounted to him the stirrinn; and thrilling incidents of the wild
buffalo chace, and the no less moving perils of the encounter with
the fierce bear of the prairies. He remarked that he should
enjoy such hunting ; that here there was nothing for his amuse-
ment but the chasing of wild cattle, and the common athletic exer-
cise of quoits, bar-heaving, &c. , but he should like to see these
big buffalo and bears, and then asked me, with great simplicity,
if I supposed he could kill them.

The king is said to be one of the strongest and most active
men on the island. He is not yet encumbered with flesh, like
most of the chiefs, and he has all the elasticity and vigor of
youth, superadded to a naturally strong and robust frame. He
has a great fancy for all kinds of break-neck adventures, and I
have no doubt, that, were he transplanted to the plains of the
west, he would soon be a hunter of the first water.

The food of the natives, consists principally of an article called

, ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 199

poe, which is made by beating the baked roots of the taro,
(^Aruni esculentum,) on a sort of wooden trencher, with a large
oval stone. The mass so prepared is mixed with a small quan-
tity of water, and set aside for several days to ferment, when
it becomes about of the consistence of paper hanger's paste.
This, with fish, either raw or baked, constitutes almost the sole
food of the common people. Give a Sandwich Islander plenty of
poe, with a raw fish or two, at each meal, and he asks for nothing
more ; deprive him of his dear loved sour paste, and he loses his
spirits, and is miserable. I have seen this strikingly shown in
the case of the Islanders at the Columbia. The poor Kanakas
tried their utmost to manufacture a sort of poe — sweet potatoes,
Irish potatoes, and even wappatoos, were operated upon, but all
to no purpose ; and when our brig left the river, their farewell's
to us were mingled with desires loudly expressed, that on our
return, we would bring them each a calabash of poe. >/

The manner in which an islander takes his food is primitive
to the last degree. He seats himself cross-legged upon the
ground with his calabash before him, and a fish and a little pile
of salt on a wooden dish by his side. His two first fingers are
immersed in the paste, and stirred round several times until
enough adheres to coat them thickly, when they are carried by a
quick motion to the mouth, which is open to receive them, and are
sucked clean — a little pinch with the fingers is then taken of
the fish which is perhaps floundering beside him, followed by a
similar pinch of salt, to season the whole repast.

The principal beauty of the islanders, in their own estimation, con-
sists in their being enormously fat, some of them weighing upwards
of three hundred pounds, and measures are consequently resorted
to, that will successfully and expeditiously produce this much
desired result. With this view, the chiefs take but little exercise,
and eat enormously of the nutritive paste before spoken of.
After they have stuffed as much as their stomachs will contain.

200 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

without the risk of positive suffocation, they roll over on their
backs upon the ground, grunting like huge swine, when two
attendants approach and place themselves on each side of the
patient. One wields a kahili, or feather fly brush, to cool his
master, and keep off the mosquetoes, while the other commences
his operations by punching his fist violently into the stomach of
the fallen man, who, with a great snort, acknowledges his con-
sciousness, and the pleasure he derives from it. Soon the other
fist of the serving man follows, and the regular kneading process
is performed ; at first, slowly and cautiously, but gradually in-
creasing in quickness and severity until the attendant is forced
to stop for breath, and the pogr stupified lump of obesity forgets
to grunt in unison with the rapidly descending blows. This is
the operation called rumi-rumi, and is usually continued from
ten to fifteen minutes, after which the patient rises, yawns,
stretches his limbs, and calls loudly for another calabash of poe.
This custom is followed almost exclusively by the chiefs, but is
not confined to the male sex, the women enjoying the luxury
equally with the men. The rumi-rumi is also practised in cases
of abdominal pains, and in dyspeptic complaints. Even the fo-
reigners sometimes resort to it, and find it beneficial.

nth. — Mr. N. and myself were invited to participate in a
lu-au dinner, to be given in the valley of Nuano this afternoon.
At about 2 o'clock, Mr. Jones called for us, and furnished us
with good horses, upon which we mounted, and galloped off" to
the valley. After a delightful ride of about five miles, over a
good, though rather stony road, between the hills which enclose
the valley, we arrived at a pretty little temporary cottage, formed
entirely of the broad green leaves of the ti plant, and perched on
a picturesque hill, overlooking the whole extent of our ride.
Here we found a number of the foreign gentlemen; others soon
joined us, and our company consisted of fifty or sixty persons.

ACKOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 201

the king, John Young, and several other distinguished natives
being of the party.

As the collation was not yet ready to be served up, Mr. Jones,
Captain Hinckley, Mr. N. and myself remounted our horses for a
visit to the great pari, or precipice, two miles above. We found
the road somewhat rough, and very hilly, in some places ex-
tremely narrow, and the path wound constantly through bushes
and tall ferns to the elevated land which we were approaching.
When within a few hundred yards of the precipice, we left our
horses in charge of several native boys, who had followed us for
the purpose, and ascended to the edge of the pari. The wind
was blowing a gale, so that it was necessary to remove our hats
and bind up our heads with handkerchiefs, and when we stood
upon the cliff', some care was required to keep our footing, and
to brace ourselves against the furious blast which was eddying
around the summit.

The pari is an almost perpendicular precipice, of about six
hundred feet, composed of basaltic rock, with occasional strata of
hard white clay.

On the north is seen the fertile and beautiful valley of Kolau,
with its neat little cottages, taro-patches and fields of sugar cane,
spread out before you like a picture ; and beyond, is the indented
shore, with its high and pointed cliffs, margining the ocean as
far as the eye can discern. Down this precipice, on the north
side, is a sort of rude path, which the natives have constructed,
and up this we saw a number of them toiling, clinging with their
hands to the jutting crags above, to raise and support their bo-
dies in the ascent. As they approached nearer to us, I was sur-
prised to perceive that every man bore a burthen on his shoulder ;
some had large calabashes of poe, suspended one on each end of
a long pole, and others carried living pigs, similarly suspended,
by having their feet tied together, and the pole passed between

them. The porkers, although hanging back downwards, in a

26

202 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

position not the most comfortable, did not complain of the treat-
ment, until they were deposited on the terra firma of the summit,
when they tuned their pipes to a lusty squeal, and made amends
for their former silence.

This spot is the scene of the last great battle of King Tame-
hameha, by which he acquired the sole and absolute sovereignty
of the whole Sandwich group. The routed army of the petty
island king was driven to take refuge among the wild crags of the
pari, and hither it was followed by the conquering forces of the
invader. No quarter was shown. The fugitives were hunted
like savage beasts, and, almost to a man, were hurled from the
giddy height and dashed to pieces on the frightful rocks
below.

On returning to the cottage, we found that the dinner had
been dished up, and that the guests were about taking their
seats. Our table was the green grass, upon which had been
arranged, with native taste, a circular table cloth, composed of ti
leaves, placed one above another. On this the viands were laid.
They consisted of fat pigs, and fat dogs, turkies, chickens, boiled
ham, and fish, with vegetables of various kinds, taro, sweet po-
tatoes, &c., — all cooked in the native manner, in pits made in
the ground, in which heated stones had been placed. Each pig
and dog had such a stone within him, and around it had been
wrapped a quantity of ti leaves, which were eaten as greens, and
were excellent. The whole of the cookery was, in fact, very su-
perior, and would have delighted the most fastidious epicure of our
own enlightened land. We had also various liquors : Champagne,
cherry, Madeira, and mountain dew, and were waited upon by
native men and boys, with chaplets of green bound around their
heads, and their persons profusely ornamented with the " fern
and heather of their native valleys." Among the attendants,
Mr. Mills, or Deacon Mills, as he is sometimes called, stood pre-
eminent; he acted as purveyor and major dome; was every

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 203

where at the same moment, and showed, by his uniform con-
duct, that he was fully alive to the high responsibilities of his
office.

When the meats were removed, wine usurped the board, toasts
were drunk, and songs were sung, and all was hilarity and
cheerfulness.

Towards evening the whole party mounted their horses and
galloped down the valley into the town. As we entered the
precincts we formed ourselves into a battalion, and reined in our
horses to a dignified trot, in order to pass a troop of gay native
ladies who were returning from a visit to Waititi. At the head
of this equestrian cavalcade, I was surprised to observe the large
person of Madam Kinau, sitting astride upon a noble steed which
evidently made an effort to curvet and appear proui^d of its K
queenly burthen.

While we were proceeding at this slow gait, a man suddenly
sprang up behind my saddle and fixed his arms firmly around my
waist. I was not more astonished than my horse at this intru-
sion ; and the spirited animal which I rode, not being accustomed
to carrying double, and feeling unwilling to be so imposed upon,
began kicking up his heels, and darting wildly about the road. I
requested the intruder to dismount instantly, but the only atten-
tion which was paid to this was a reply, in the native language,
which I did not understand. Supposing him to be one of the ser-
vants who had been heated by the refuse wine of the feast, and con-
sidering myself in real danger from the unruly conduct of my horse,
I turned half round and dealt my merry companion a blow in the
chest, which I intended should have unseated him. How was I
astonished to hear the exclamation, " don't strike so hard, hauri"
from him who occupied my crupper, and I w^as not long in
discovering that the joker was the king, Kauikeaouli, himself I
apologized in the best manner I could, though out of breath with

204 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the exertion of restraining the fiery horse. Flis majesty did not
seem in the least offended, but passing one arm each side of me,
and taking the bridle in his hands, he guided the animal into one
of the largest stores of the town, through which we went jumping
and prancing, followed by all the king's train, and several white
men of the party.

ACROSS TUB ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 205

V-

CHAPTER XII.

Visit to the island of Kauai — A royal call — Rev. P. J. Gulick, the mission-
ary— Description of the island — A present from Kauikeaouli — Royal mode of
obtaining supplies — A change of residence — Excursions through the coun-
try— Birds — JVative method of catching them, — The travellers wijid-bound —
Shell hunting — Habits of the natives — Beach food, and mode of eating it —
Visit of the king, and governor Kekeoeva — Characteristics of the latter —
Anxiety of the king to return home — Arrival of his folloivers — A inetamor-
phosis — A royal supper — Evening service — Royal guard — A sail in sight —
Joy of the king — His letter — Return of the Avon — Departure from Kauai,
and arrival at Oahu — A pic-nic party at Pearl river — Calabash dance by
the natives — Departure for Columbia river — A primitive passage to the
shore— A storm at sea — A flight of shore birds — Land ahead — Arrival at the
Columbia.

February \Oth. — Mr. Nuttall and myself were kindly invited by
Captain Hinckley, to take a trip with him to the island of Kauai,
in the brig Avon, owned by him. We embarked this morning,
and with the pilot on board sailed out of the harbor. This being
one of the leeward islands, towards which the trade-winds al-
ways blow, we made the passage quickly ; and in the evening
ran into the harbor of Koloa, and anchored within half a mile
of the shore.

The next morning we landed in our boat, and took possession
of a large untenanted native liouse, near the beach, belonging to
Captain II. Our servant busied himself in making our new re-
sidence comfortable, arranging the bedding and mosquitoe cui'-
tains, procuring mats for partitions, and, finally, in setting before
us a good breakfast, cooked on the spot. We had scarcely

206 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

finished our meal, when two horsemen rode up, and dismounting
at the door, entered the house. Our visitors proved to be the
king and John Young, who had mounted their horses this morn-
ing for a cattle hunt on the hills, but hearing of the arrival of
the foreigners, had hastened to pay their respects to us , and as-
sure us of their protection. The king, and his train came a few
days since to this island, and propose remaining two or three weeks
longer ; his majesty's object appears to be to inspect the condition
of his people here, and to give them an opportunity of evincing
their loyalty and affection. He was so kind as to express much
interest for Mr. N. and myself, gave us one of his own body
servants for our attendant, while we remain, and promised that
in the afternoon he would send us some provisions.

Shortly after the king left us, we were visited by the Rev. P.
J. Gulick,the missionary of this station, to whom I had a letter from
my kind friend, Mr. Deill, and after sitting half an hour, we ac-
companied him to his house, about a mile distant.

This part of the island of Kauai exhibits no particularly in-
teresting features : from the beach to the mission station there is
a good road made by the natives over a gentle ascent of about
two miles, on each side of which taro patches, yam and maize
fields abound. Back from the ocean and at right angles with it,
are seen several ranges of long, high hills, with narrow valleys
between ; the hills are covered with low trees of Tu-tui and Pan-
danus, and the valleys with dense bushes, tall ferns, and broad
leaved bananas.

The good missionary introduced us to his wife, a very intelli-
gent and agreeable woman, and to his three pretty children, and
we spent an hour with them very pleasantly. In the afternoon
we returned to our cottage near the beach, where we found a
native waiting for us with a hand cart filled with provisions of
various kinds, which he said the king had sent to us as a
present. There was a very large hog, three pigs, three or

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 207

four turkies, and several pairs of chickens, all living; with
vegetables in great abundance, taro, sweet-potatoes, melons, &c.
I thought the man must certainly have made a mistake, but he
assured me that it was right : " the king had sent them to the
' kauris' (foreigners) who had just arrived, and wished him to
say that in tree days he would send them as much more." His
majesty had evidently measured our appetites by the standard oi
his own people, and we determined to see him immediately, and
countermand the sumptuous order v/hich he had given. It may
be proper here to remark, that when the king, or chiefs, wish a
supply of provisions, or any other articles in which the common
people deal, or of which they are possessed, a messenger is sent
to demand such things in the name of the master, and a levy is
made upon the property of the poor native, without any kind of
compensation being ever offered. We were aware that our pro-
vision had been obtained in this way, and were unwilling that the
industrious poor should lose their labor to contribute to our wants,
preferring to buy from them the necessary supplies. \/

The next day we paid another visit to Mr. Gulick, and ac-
cepted a pressing invitation to make our home with him, his
house being much more convenient to the valleys, which we
wished to explore in search of birds and other natural objects.
Here we had another interview with the king, who insisted upon
our occupying a fine large house in the neighborhood of Mr.
Gulick's residence, as a depository for our collections. We
accepted this offer with pleasure, and the missionary's accommo-
dation being somewhat contracted, we used the king's house
as our study and sleeping apartment, taking our meals with the
family of our kind friend.

We made here several long excursions over the hills and
through the deep valleys, without much success. The birds are
the same as those we found and collected at Oahu, but are not so
numerous. They are principally creepers (Certhia) and honey-

208 NARRATIVE OF A JOUBNEY

suckers (Nectarinia ;) feed chiefly upon flowers, and the sweet
juice of the banana, and some species are very abundant. The
native boys here have adopted a singular mode of catching the
honey sucking birds. They lay themselves, flat upon their backs
on the ground, and cover their whole bodies with bushes, and
the campanulate flowers of which the birds are in search. One
of these flowers is then held by the lower portion of the tube be-
tween the finger and thumb; the little bird inserts his long,
curved bill to the base of the flower, when it is immediately
seized by the fingers of the boy, and the little flutterer disappears
beneath the mass of bushes. In this way, dozens of beautiful
birds are taken, and they are brought to us living and unin-
jured.

20th. — We expected to have lefi; the island several days ago,
but the Avon has not returned, and she would not now be
able to come, in consequence of a steady S. W. wind which has
prevailed for the last week. Our ammunition, and materials for
the preparation of birds, are entirely exhausted, and we cannot
here obtain a supply, so we amuse ourselves in collecting shells
on the beaches, plants, fish, &c. We are living very comfort-
ably in the house furnished us by the king, and we have become
completely domesticated in the agreeable family of Mr. Gulick.
We sometimes spend whole days wandering along the rocky
coast in search of shells, and in these journeys we are always
accompanied by a troop of boys and girls, and sometimes men
and women, often to the number of twenty or thirty. They are
indefatigable shell-hunters, and prove of great service to us,
being compensated for each one that they bring us, with pins or
needles. In their habits they are perfectly amphibious, diving
into the sea, and through the dashing surf without the least hesi-
tation, and exploring the bottom for an almost incredible time
without risinsf to breathe.

In the§e sub-marine excursions they frequently find the echinus.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 209

with spines four or five inches in length, and the black, kimpish
substance called heclie la mer. Both these animals are eaten ^t.
by them as they are taken living from the water ; the spines of
the former are knocked off against the rocks, and the soft con-
tents of the case sucked out ; the latter, after having the tough
outside skin removed, are eaten like biscuits to qualify the meal.
There is also another sea animal which is considered by the na-
tives a great delicacy, the sepia, or cuttle fish. This is a large,
ill-looking creature, with an oval body, and eight or ten long
arms or tentacula ; within the cavity of the thorax is a sack,
containing a fluid resembling ink, and as the teeth are sunk into
this, the black juice squirts into the face of the masticator, while
the long feelers are twisting about his head like serpents.

March 5th. — The king, and Kakeoeva, the governor of the
island, called on us before breakfast this morning, and partici-
pated in our family worship. After the usual prayer in English,
by Mr. Gulick, Kakeoeva supplicated in his own language, in a tone
peculiarly solemn and impressive, which concluded the service.
This chief is, I believe, a sincerely good and pious man, and his
piety consists not in profession alone, but is exhibited in nume-
rous acts of unassuming benevolence to his oppressed people, and
in uniform and well directed effoi'ts for meliorating their condi-
tion. He enforces all the tabus, which have for their object the
suppression of vice and immorality, and while his people fear to
disobey his injunctions in the smallest particular, they love and
venerate him as their father and friend.

The principal object of the king in calling upon us, was to

request, (which he did with great apparent diffidence,) the loan

of his house for a few days, as he wished to move his residence

to a point nearer the sea, in order to catch the first glimpse of the

white sails of the Avon, the arrival of which he is expecting with

great anxiety. His impatience to return to Oahu is said, sometimes,

to exceed all reasonable bounds ; he works himself into a perfect

27

210 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

fury ; fancies that every thing is going wrong at home, and that
his people are in mourning for his protracted absence ; but
although he is a king, the winds of heaven will not obey him,
and, with the meanest follower in his train, he must wait the
appointed time.

We, of course, relinquished the house cheerfully, and, with
the assistance of our native servants, transferred all our commo-
dities to the mansion of the good missionary.

In the afternoon, the natives from all parts of the island began
to flock to the king's temporary residence. The petty chiefs,
and head men of the villages, were mounted upon all sorts of
horses, from the high-headed and high-mettled Californian steed,
to the shaggy and diminutive poney raised on their native hills ;
men women and children were running on foot, laden with pio-s,
calabashes of poe, and every production of the soil; and though
last, certainly not least, in the evening there came the troops of
of the island, with fife and drum, and ' " tinkling cymbal," to
form a body guard for his majesty, the king. Little houses were
put up all around the vicinity, and thatched in an incredibly
short space of time, and when Mr. N. and myself visited the
royal mansion, after nightfall, we found the whole neighborhood
metamorphosed ; a beautiful little village had sprung up as by
magic, and the retired studio of the naturalists had been trans-
formed into a royal banquet hall. His majesty soon recognised
us in the crowd, and taking us each by the hand, led us into the
house, and introduced us to the queen, Kalama, who received us in
a dignified and very pleasant manner, and made room for us
near her at the supper, which the attendants were spreading
upon the ground. This consisted of a variety of meats lu aued,
fish, potatoes and tare, and before each guest was placed a little
calabash of poe. As I have before stated, this last article is an
indispensable requisite in the economy of every meal; and even
the refined Kauikeaouli, who has abolished in his own person so

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 211

many of the rude customs of his forefathers, must sip a little poe
to conclude his supper. I remarked, however, that on this occa-
sion, he did not soil his fingers, as is usual, but fed himself with
a spoon as delicately as possible. The queen, on the contrary,
and all the chiefs assembled at the board, plunged their hands
into the paste, and sucked their fingers after the approved
fashion.

When the supper was concluded, the people were all assembled
under a ranai, or shed, which had been constructed for the
occasion, and prayer was made in a loud and solemn tone, by
John li, the king's chaplain. At its conclusion, the people
scattered themselves about as before ; some were collected in
little groups on the ground, smoking their short pipes, and re-
salins themselves with sea-urchins and succulent cuttle-fish,
while the stenlor voices of the royal guard pealed out an " all's
well" from their station near the palace of the monarch.

This royal guard, whicTi we had an opportunity of seeing next
morning, would not do discredit to a militia gathering in yan-
kee land. Like our own redoubtable troops, the men were of all
sizes, in every variety of costume, and with all sorts of v/eapons;
muskets without bayonets or locks, and no muskets at all, broom-
sticks, and tin pans, swords, pistols, and taro tops. They were
arranged every morning in line before the door of the palace,
and laboriously drilled in the manual exercise, by James Young, a
half-caste who has been in America. Poor fellows ! they had
hard duty to perform, and were no doubt longing for the time
when his majesty should depart, that they might exchange the
arduous and uncongenial duties of the camp, for the toil of their
simple husbandry.

About a week after, as I was strolling near the palace, which,
being on a hill, commanded a fine view of the ocean, the cry of
" sail, O !" was uttered in a joyful tone, by a bevy of urchins, who

• -

212 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

were on the look out, and was echoed all round the neighbor-
hood. The king, who had of late become unusually dull and
spiritless, seemed suddenly to have acquired new life. He was
seen rushing out of the house, like one distraught, and jumping
and capering all about in a perfect agony of joy. Seeing me
near him, he grasped my hand in the most cordial manner, while
his eyes filled with tears : " We shall go back to Oahu, hauri,
my people want me again ; the wind has changed, and this ship
is sent to take me away."

I participated in the anxiety of the king to return ; for, in ad-
dition to the ennui which is always the accompaniment of a
forced detention, even in pleasant places, I feared that our brig
would leave the islands for the Columbia without us, and we
should thus lose the opportunity of hailing the opening of spring,
in our western world, the season which, of all others, is the most
interesting to us.

Next morning a messenger came to the king from Waimea, a
port about fourteen miles distant, with information that the
schooner which we had seen, had put in there, and only waited
the embarkation of his majesty to steer direct for Oahu. No
time was lost in taking advantage of this opportunity; and at
noon, the spot, which the day before had swarmed with hundreds
of dingy natives, was silent and untenanted.

On the day following, learning that the schooner had not sail-
ed, and fearing that the Avon would not arrive early enough,! wrote
a letter to the king, requesting a passage for Mr. N. and myself,
with him. To this, — which I sent by a runner, — the following
laconic reply was received. It was directed "To the missionary,
Mr. Gulick," and is rendered literally from the native language :
" Say thou to the foreigners, we have sailed. Let them look out
when we arrive there. King Kauikeaouli."

The an-ival spoken of, alluded to the vessel passing the port

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 213

of Koloa, where the schooner would back her topsails and lie to,
that we might board her in a canoe.

After some consideration, and consultation with Mr. Gulick,
we concluded that we would decline the king's offer, as we knew
the vessel would be crowded, and therefore uncomfortable ; and
as the wind now blew steadily in its accustomed quarter, we
had Uttle doubt of the early arrival of the Avon. In the after-
noon we saw the schooner of the king come booming along past
us, the deck, and even the rigging, alive with natives, but a mes-
senger whom we had previously sent off, saved them the trouble
of bringing to ; and away went the little vessel on a wind, and
soon became a dim and ill-defined speck upon the far hori-
zon.

15t7i. — A sail was descried at daylight this morning, bearing
towards our island ; and while we were at breakfast, two fisher-
men called, to tell us that it was the Avon come at last. She
was standing towards the harbor of Koloa, with a fair wind, and
when Mr. N. and myself arrived at the beach, she was hauling in
under the land. The captain and Mr. Smith, a resident of Ho-
noruru, came on shore to meet us. They informed us that the
king arrived at Oahu last evening, after an unusually boisterous
and uncomfortable passage, and that his majesty was almost be-
side himself with joy to receive once more the warm and affec-
tionate greetings of his people at home.

The brig was detained here a day, in order to take in a cargo
of live stock, pigs, goats, &c.; and the next morning we bade
adieu to the kind and affectionate family of the missionary, and
went on board. In the afternoon our anchor was weighed, and
we were soon ploughing the wide ocean, while the rugged, iron-
bound coast of Kauai rapidly receded from our view. We had
on board several distinguished natives, as passengers, the princi-
pal of whom was Kekeoeva, the governor, and at each meal
which we took on board, the old gentleman asked an audible

214 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

blessing on the viands, and regularly returned thanks at its con-
clusion.

After a pleasant passage of two days we arrived at Oahu, and
were warmly greeted by our friends, who sympathized with us,
and thought that our long tarriance must have been peculiarly
irksome. They knew but little of the resources of the natural-
ist ; they knew not that the wild forest, the deep glen, and the
rugged mountain-top possess charms for him which he would not
exchange for gilded palaces ; and that to acquaint himself with
nature, he gladly escapes from the restraints of civilization, and
buries himself from the world which cannot appreciate his en-
joyment.

22(1. — I joined a party of ladies and gentlemen this morning,
in an excursion to Pearl river, on the west side of the island.
We embarked in several small schooners and barges, and had
a delightful trip of two hours. The king, who was with us, with
a number of his favorites, John Young, Kanaina, Halileo, &c.,
procured for our accommodation several native houses, in which
we slung our cots and hammocks,' and slept at night. We took
our meals under a large shaded ranai, and the amusements of
the party were riding, shooting, and a variety of sylvan games,
which rendered our pic-nic of three days a constant scene of
pleasant festivity.

The night before we left, the gentlemen of the party were in-
vited by the king to witness the curious exhibition called the
" calabash dance." We entered a large house, crowded with na-
tives, with the exception of a wide space in the middle, which
had been reserved for the performers. These were men and wo-
men to the number of ten or twelve, in a state of almost perfect
nudity, having no covering, except the small maro of tapa
bound around the loins. Each was furnished with a very large
gourd, having the neck attached, and from the under surface
the contents had been removed through a small aperture. The

// /

ACROSS THE ROCKt MOUNTAINS, ETC. 215

performers kneeled upon the ground, and each grasped his gourd
by the neck and lifted it, when one of the number commenced a
strange kind of howling song, lifting his calabash with one hand
and beating it with the other so as to keep accurate time to his
music. This song was soon taken up by the others, until the
whole company joined, and every one thumped his calabash most
musically. I was astonished at the exceeding nicety with which
this was done. No band of civilized drummers could have kept
time more perfectly, nor flourished their sticks with more grace,
than did these unsophisticated people their inartificial instruments.
During the whole time of the singing, the bodies of the perform-
ers were not idle ; every muscle seemed to have something to do ;
and was incessantly brought into action by the strange motions,
twistings and contortions of the frame, which were also as eva-
nescent as the sound of their voices. This singular exhibition pos-
sessed interest for me, as being one of the idolatrous games,
which in former years constituted a portion of their religious ex-
ercisesr - The calabash dance is now almost exploded, the natives
generally not understanding the manipulations, and like other
relics of heathenism it is of course discouraged by the mission-
aries, and will probably soon be unknown amongst them.

On the 26th of March we embarked on board the brig May
Dacre, upon our return to the Columbia. As we sailed out of
the harbor, and the lovely shore of the island became more and
more indistinct, I felt sad and melancholy in the prospect of
parting, perhaps for ever, from the excellent friends who had
treated me with such uniform kindness and hospitality.

We have had an accession to our crew of thirty Sandwich
Islanders, who are to be engaged in the salmon fishery on the
Columbia, and six of these have been allowed the unusual privi-
lege of taking their wives with them. Some six or eight natives,
of both sexes, friends and relatives of the crew, came on board
when we weighed anchor, and their parting words were prolonged

216 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

until the brig cleared the reef, and her sails had hlled with the
fresh trade wind. They thought it then time to withdraw, and
putting their noses together after their fashion, they bade their
friends an affectionate farewell, and without hesitation dashed
into the sea, and made directly for shore. I thought of blue
sharks, tiger sharks, and shovel-noses, and would not have run
such a risk for all the wealth of all the islands.

April 5th. — Yesterday we had an inlding of a storm. Some
rain fell in the morning early; and at noon, while sitting in the
cabin, I was startled by hearing a flapping, as if all the sails in
the ship were being torn to pieces, and a roaring not unlike the
escape of steam from the boiler of a boat. Upon ascending to
the deck, I observed the whole ocean covered with glittering
white foam, the surges boiling, and dashing, and breaking over
our vessel as she labored heavily amongst them. The sails
were flapping about most unmanageably. The studding-sails, —
all of which had been set before the storm, — were immediately
taken in, and hands were sent aloft to furl the remaining can-
vass, until in a very short time we were scudding under bare
poles, and defying the utmost fury of the elements. In about
half an hour, the storm abated, and, soon after, entirely ceased ;
the wind became steady and fresh ; the white folds of our can-
vass were again let loose, and away we went before a " smashing
breeze" at the rate of ten knots an hour.

\2tli. — The mate has several times spoken of having seen
large flocks of a small species of land bird sailing around the ves-
sel. As it is scarcely possible they could have emigrated from
the distant continent, Captain L. supposes that they are residents
of a small uninhabited island, somewhere in these latitudes, which
has long been supposed to exist, but has i:iever been found. He
who may hereafter be so fortunate as to discover this land, will
probably be rendered a rich man for the remainder of his days,
for it doubtless abounds in seal, which never having been inter-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 217

rupted, will be easily taken. I have not seen the birds spoken
of, but suppose them to be some of the small gralloe.

On the 15th, the wind, which had foi' several days been light,
began steadily to increase, until we were running ten knots by the
log. In the afternoon, the atmosphere became thick and hazy,
indicating our approach to the shores of the continent. In a
short time, a number of the small Auks, — of which we saw a
few immediately after leaving the Columbia, — were observed
sporting in the waves, close under our l)ows ; then several gulls
of the species common on the river, and soon after large flocks
of geese and canvass-back ducks.

The sea gradually lost its legitimate deep blue color, and as-
sumed a dirty, green appearance, indicating soundings. Upon
heaving the lead here, we got only eleven fathoms, and found that
we had approached nearer than was prudent, having been misled
by the haze. Wore ship immediately, and soon saw land, bear-
ing east, which we ascertained to be south of Cape Disappoint-
ment. Stood off during the night, and the next morning at
4 o'clock, the wind favoring us, we bore up for the cape, and at
7 crossed the dangerous bar safely, and ran direct for the river.

28

218 NARKATIVE OF A JOUKNKY

CHAPTER XIII.

I'assage up the Columbia — Jiirds — ^d trip to the IVallammet — Methodist mis-
sionaries— their prospects — Fort TVillia?n — Band-tail pigeons — Wretched
condition of the Indians at the falls — A Kallapooyah village — Indian
cemetery — Superstitions — Treatment of diseases — JMethcd of steaming —
" JMaking medicine^^ — Indian sorcerers — An interruption of festivities —
Death of Thornburg — An inquest — Verdict of the Jury — Inordinate appetite
for ardent spirits — JVlisfortunes of the American Compani/ — Eight men
dro-wned — Murder of two trappers by the Banneck Indians — Arrival of
Captain Thing — His meeting and skirmish with the Blackfeet Indians —
Massacre — A narroiu escape.

On the 16th, we anchored abreast of Oak point. Our decks
were almost immediately crowded with Indians to welcome us,
and among them we recognised many faces with which we were
familiar. Chinamus, the Chinook chief, was the principal of
these, who, with his wife, Aillapust, or Sally, as she is called at
the fort, paid us an early visit, and brought us red deer and
sturgeon to regale upon after our voyage.

On the afternoon of the next day, we ran up to Warrior's
point, the brig's old mooring ground. The people here had been
anxious to see us ; extensive preparations had been made to pro-
secute the salmon fishery, and the coopers have been engaged the
whole winter in making barrels to accommodate them. Mr.
Walker, the missionaries' quondam associate, was in charge of
the post, and he informed us that Captain Wyeth had returned
only a few weeks since from the upper country, where he had
been spending the winter, engaged in the arduous business of

ACROSS THK ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 219

trapping, in the prosecution of which he had endured great and
various hardships.

May 12th. — The rainy season is not yet over ; we have had
almost constant showers since we arrived, but now the weather
appears settled. Birds are numerous, particularly the warblers,
(Sylvia.) Many of these are migratory, remaining but a few
weeks : others breed here, and reside during the greater part of
the summer. I have already procured several new species.

20th. — Mr. Wyeth, camo down from Walla-walla yesterday,
and this morning I embarked with him in a large canoe, manned
by Kanakas, for a trip to the Wallammet falls in order to procure
salmon. We visited fort William, (Wyeth's new settlement upon
Wappatoo island,) which is about fifteen miles from the lower
mouth of the Wallammet. We found here the missionaries,
Messrs. Lee and Edwards, who arrived to-day from their station,
sixty miles above. They give flattering accounts of their pros-
pects here ; they are surrounded by a considerable number of
Indians who are friendly to the introduction of civilization and
religious light, and who treat them with the greatest hospitality
and kindness. They have built several comfortable log houses,
and the soil in their vicinity they represent as unusually rich and
productive. They have, I think, a good prospect of being service-
able to this miserable and degraded people ; and if they commence
their operations judiciously, and pursue a steady, unwavering
course, the Indians in this section of country may yet be redeem-
ed from the thraldom of vice, superstition, and indolence, to which
they have so long submitted, and above which their energies have
not enabled them to rise.

The spot chosen by Captain W. for his fort is on a high piece
of land, which will probably not be overflown by the periodical
freshets, and the soil is the rich black loam so plentifully dis-
tributed through this section of country. The men now live in
tents and temporary huts, but several log houses are constructing

220 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

which, when finished, will vie in durability and comfort with
Vancouver itself.

21st. — The large hand-tail pigeon (Colombafasciata) is very-
abundant near the river, found in flocks of from fifty to sixty, and
perching upon the dead trees along the margin of the stream.
They are feeding upon the buds of the balsam poplar ; are very
fat, and excellent eating. In the course of the morning, and
witlLut leaving the canoe, I killed enough to supply our people
with provision for two days.

24th. — We visited the falls to-day, and while Captain W. was
inspecting the vicinity to decide upon the practicability of drawing
his seine here, I strolled into the Indian lodges on the bank of the
river. Tke poor creaturCvS were all living miserably, and some
appeared to be suffering absolute want. Those who were the
best supplibd, had nothing more than the fragments of a few
sturgeons and lamprey eels, kamas bread, &c. To the roofs of
the lodges were hung a number of crooked bladders, filled with
rancid seal oil, used as a sort of condiment with the dry and
unsavory sturgeon.

On the Kiakamas river, about a mile below, we found a few
lodges belonging to Indians of the Kalapooyah tribe. We ad-
dressed them in Chinook, (the language spoken by all those in-
habiting tlie Columbia below the cascades,) but they evidently
did not comprehend a word, answering in a peculiarly harsh
and gutteral language, with which we were entirely unacquainted.
However, we easily made them understand by signs that we
wanted salmon, and being assured in the same significant man-
ner that they had none to sell, we decamped as soon as possible,
to escape the fleas and other vermin with which the interior of
their wretched habitations were plentifully supplied. We saw
here a large Indian cemetery. The bodies had been buried un-
der the ground, and each tomb had a board at its head, upon
which was rudely painted some strange, uncouth figure. The

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 221

pans, kettles, clothing, &c., of the deceased, were all suspended
upon sticks, driven into the ground near the head board.

June 6th. — The Indians frequently bring us salmon, and we
observe that, invariably, before they part with them, they are
careful to remove the hearts. This superstition, is religiously
adhered to by all the Chinook tribe. Before the fish is split and
prepared for eating, a small hole is made in the breast, the heart
taken out, roasted, and eaten in silence, and with great gravity. This
practice is continued only during the first month in which the
salmon make their appearance, and is intended as a kind of pro-
pitiation to the particular deity or spirit who presides over the
finny tribes. Superstition in all its absurd and most revolting
aspects is rife among this people. They believe in " black spi-
rits, and white, blue spirits, and grey," and to each grizzly
monster some peculiar virtue or ghastly terror is attributed.
When a chief goes on a hunting or fishing excursion, he puts him-
self under the care of one these good spirits, and if his expedition is
unsuccessful, he affirms that the antagonist evil principle has
gained the victory ; but this belief does not prevent his making
another, and another attempt, in the hope, each time, that his
guardian genius will have the ascendency.

In their treatment of diseases, they employ but few remedies,
and these are generally simple and inefficacious. Wounds are
treated with an application of green leaves, and bound with strips
of pine bark, and in some febrile cases a sweat is administered.
This is effected by digging a hole two or three feet deep in the
ground, and placing within it some hemlock or spruce boughs
moistened with water ; hot stones are then thrown in, and a
frame work of twigs is erected over the opening, and covered
closely with blankets to prevent the escape of the steam. Under
this contrivance, the patient is placed ; and aficr remaining

222 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

fifteen or twenty minutes, he is removed, and plunged into cold
water.

Their mode of " making medicine,^'' to use their own term, is,
however, very different from this. The sick man is laid upon
a bed of mats and blankets, elevated from the ground, and sur-
rounded by a raised frame work of hewn boards. Upon this
frame two "medicine men" (sorcerers) place themselves, and
commence chaunting, in a low voice, a kind of long drawn,
sighing song. Each holds a stout stick, of about four feet
long, in his hand, with which he. beats upon the frame work, and
keeps accurate time with the music. After a few minutes, the
song begins to increase in loudness and quickness, (a corres-
ponding force and celerity being given to the stick,) until in a
short time the noise becomes almost deafening, and may well
serve, in many instances, to accelerate the exit of him whom it is
their intention to benefit.

During the administration of the medicine, the relations and
friends of the patient are often employed in their usual avoca-
tions in the same house with him, and by his bedside ; the wo-
men making mats, moccasins, baskets, &c., and the men lolling
around, smoking or conversing upon general subjects. No
appearance of sorrow or concern is manifested for the brother,
husband, or father, expiring beside them, and but for the presence
and ear-astounding din of the medicine men, you would not
know that any thing unusual had occurred to disturb the tran-
quillity of the family circle.

These medicine men are, of course, all impostors, their object
being simply the acquisition of property ; and in case of the re-
covery of the patient, they make the most exorbitant demands of
his relations ; but when the sick man dies, they are often com-
pelled to fly, in order to escape the vengeance of the survivors,
who generally attribute the fatal termination to the evil influence
of tlie practitioner.

ACROSS TUE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 223

July Ath. — This morning was ushered in by the firing of can-
non on board our brig, and we had made pi*eparations for spend-
ing the day in festivity, when, at about 9 o'clock, a letter was
received from Mr. Walker, who has charge of the fort on Wap-
patoo island, stating that the tailor, Thornburg, had been killed
this morning by Hubbard, the gunsmith, and requesting our pre-
sence immediately, to investigate the case, and direct him how
to act.

Our boat was manned without loss of time, and Captain L.
and myself repaired to the fort, where we found every thing in
confusion. Poor Thornburg, whom I had seen but two days
previously, full of health and vigor, was now a lifeless corpse; and
Hubbard, who was more to be pitied, was walking up and down
the beach, with a countenance pale and haggard, from the feel-
ings at war within.

We held an inquest over the body, and examined all the men
of the fort severally, for the purpose of eliciting the facts of the
case, and, if warranted by the evidence, to exculpate Hubbard
from blame in the commission of the act. It appeared that,
several weeks since, a dispute arose between Hubbard and Thorn-
burg, and the latter menaced the life of the former, and had since
been frequently heard to declare that he would carry the threat
into effect on the first favorable opportunity. This morning, be-
fore daylight, he entered the apartment of Hubbard, armed with
a loaded gun, and a large knife, and after making the most
deliberate preparations for an instant departure from the room,
as soon as the deed should be committed, cocked his gun, and
prepared to shoot at his victim. Hubbard, who was awakened
by the noise of Thornburg's entrance, and was therefore on the
alert, waited quietly until this crisis, when cocking his pistol,
without noise, he took deliberate aim at the assassin, and fired.
Thornburg staggered back, his gun fell from his grasp, and the two
combatants struggled hand to hand. The tailor, being wounded,

224 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

was easily overcome, and was thrown violently out of the house,
when he fell to the ground, and died in a few minutes. Upon ex-
amining the body, we found that the two balls from the pistol had
entered the arm below the shoulder, and escaping the bone, had
passed into the cavity of the chest. The verdict of the jury was
" justifiable homicide," and a properly attested certificate, con-
taining a full account of the proceedings, was given to Hubbard,
as well for his satisfaction, as to prevent future difficulty, if the
subject should ever be investigated by a judicial tribunal.

This Thornburg was an unusually bold and determined man,
fruitful in inventing mischief, as he was reckless and daring in its
prosecution. His appetite for ardent spirits was of the most
inordinate kind. During the journey across the country, I con-
stantly carried a large two-gallon bottle of whiskey, in which I
deposited various kinds of lizards and serpents and when we
arrived at the Columbia the vessel was almost full of these
crawling creatures. I left the bottle on board the brig when I
paid my first visit to the Wallamraet falls, and on my return
found that Thornburg had decanted the liquor from the precious
reptiles which I had destined for immortality, and he and
one of his pot companions had been " happy" upon it for a whole
day. This appeared to me almost as bad as the " tapping of the
Admiral," practised with such success by the British seamen; but
unlike their commander, I did not discover the theft until too
late to save my specimens, which were in consequence all
destroyed.

11th. — Mr. Nuttall, who has just returned from the dalles,
where he has been spending some weeks, brings distressing
intelligence from above. It really seems that the " Columbia
River Fishing and Trading Company" is devoted to destruction ;
disasters meet them at every turn, and as yet none of their
schemes have prospered. This has not been for want of energy
or exertion. Captain W. has pursued the plans which seemed

ACEOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 225

to him best adapted for insuring success, witli the most indefati-
gable perseverance and industry, and has endured hardships
without murmui'ing, which would have prostrated many a more
robust man ; nevertheless, he has not succeeded in making the
business of fishing and trapping productive, and as we can-
not divine the cause, we must attribute it to the Providence
that rules the destinies of men and controls all human enter-
prises.

Two evenings since, eight Sandwich Islanders, a white man
and an Indian woman, left the cascades in a large canoe laden
with salmon, for the brig. The river was as usual rough and
tempestuous, the wind blew a heavy gale, the canoe was cap-
sized, and eight out of the ten sank to rise no more. The
two who escaped, islanders, have taken refuge among the In-
dians at the village below, and will probably join us in a few
days.

Intelligence has also been received of the murder of one of
Wyeth's principal trappers, named Abbot, and another wjiite
man who accompanied him, by the Banneck Indians. The two
men were on their way to the Columbia with a large load of
beaver, and had stopped at the lodge of the Banneck chief, by
whom they had been hospitably entertained. After they left, the
chief, with several of his young men, concealed themselves in a
thicket, near which the unsuspicious trappers passed, and shot
and scalped them both.

These Indians have been heretofore harmless, and have always
appeared to wish to cultivate the friendship of the white people.
The only reason that can be conceived for this change in their
sentiments, is that some of their number may lately have received
injury from the white traders, and, with true Indian animosity,
they determined to wreak their vengeance upon the whole race.

Thus it is always unsafe to travel among Indians, as no one

2i)

226

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

knows at what moment a tribe which has always been friendly,
may receive ill treatment from thoughtless, or evil-designing men,
and the innocent suffer for the deeds of the guilty.

Avgust 19th. — This morning, Captain Thing (Wyeth's part-
ner) arrived from the interior. Poor man ! he looks very much
worn by fatigue and hardships, and seven years older than
when I last saw him. He passed through the Snake country
from Fort Hall, without knowing of the hostile disposition of the
Bannecks, but, luckily for him, only met small parties of them,
who feared to attack his camp. He remarked symptoms of
distrust and coolness in their manner, for which he w-as, at the
time, unable to account. As I have yet been only an hour in
his company, and as a large portion of this time was consumed
in his business affairs, I have not been able to obtain a very par-
ticular account of his meeting and skirmish with the Blackfeet
last spring, a rumor of which we heard several weeks since.
From what I have been enabled to gather, amid the hurry and
bustle consequent upon his arrival, the circumstances appear to
be briefly these. He had made a camp on Salmon river, and,
as usual, piled up his goods in front of it, and put his horses in a
pen erected temporarily for the purpose, when, at about day-
break, one of his sentries heard a gun discharged near. He went
immediately to Captain T.'s tent to inform him of it, and at that
instant a yell sounded from an adjacent thicket, and about five
hundred Indians, — three hundred horse and two hundred foot, —
rushed out into the open space in front. The mounted savages
were dashing to and fro across the line of the camp, discharging
their pieces with frightful rapidity, while those who had not
horses, crawled around to take them in the rear.

Notwithstanding the galling fire which the Indians were con-
stantly pouring into them. Captain T. succeeded in driving his
horses into the thicket behind, and securing them there, placing
over them a guard of three men as a check to the savages who

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 227

were approaching from that quarter. He then threw himself,
with the remainder of his little band, behind the bales of goods,
and returned the fire of the enemy. He states that occa-
sionally he was gratified by the sight of an Indian tumbling
from his horse, and at such times a dismal, savage yell was
uttered by the rest, who then always fell back a little, but re-
tui-ned immediately to the charge with more than their former
fury.

At length the Indians, apparently wearied by their unsuccess-
ful attempts to dislodge the white men, changed their mode of at-
tack, and rode upon the slight fortification, rapidly and steadily.
Although they lost a man or two by this (for them) unu-
sually bold proceeding, yet they succeeded in driving the brave
little band of whites to the cover of the bushes. They then took
possession of the goods, &c., which had been used as a defence,
and retired to a considerable distance, where they were soon
joined by their comrades on foot, who had utterly failed in their
attempt to obtain the horses. In a short time, a man was seen
advancing from the main body of Indians towards the scene of
combat, holding up his hand as a sign of amity, and an intima-
tion of the suspension of hostilities, and requested a " talk" with
the white people. Captain T., with difficulty repressing his in-
clination to shoot the savage herald down, was induced, in con-
sideration of the safety of his party, to dispatch an uiterpreter
towards him. The only information that the Blackfeet wished
to communicate was, that having obtained all the goods of the
white people, they were now willing that they should continue
their journey in peace, and that they should not again be molest-
ed. The Indians then departed, and the white men struck back
on their trail, towards Fort Hall. Captain Thing lost every thing
he had with him, all his clothing, papers, journals, &c. But
he should probably be thankful that he escaped with his life, for

228 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

it is known to be very ususual for these hostile Indians to
spare the lives of white men, when in their power, the acquisi-
tion of property being generally with them only a secondary
consideration.

Captain T. had two men severely, but not mortally, wounded.
The Indians had seven killed, and a considerable number
wounded.

20th. — Several days since a poor man came here in a most
deplorable condition, having been gashed, stabbed and bruised in
a manner truly frightful. He had been travelling on foot con-
stantly for fifteen days, exposed to the broiling sun, with nothing
to eat during the whole of this time, except the very few roots
which he had been able to find. He was immediately put in the
hospital here, and furnished with every thing necessary for his
comfort, as well as surgical attendance. He states that he left
Monterey, in California, in the spring, in companj'' with seven
men, for the purpose of coming to the Wallammet to join Mr.
Young, an American, who is now settled in that country. They
met with no accident until they arrived at a village of Potdmeos
Indians,* about ten days journey south of this. Not knowing
the character of these Indians, they were not on their guard,
allowing them to enter their camp, and finally to obtain posses-
sion of their weapons. The Indians then fell upon the defence-
less little band with their tomahawks and knives, (having no fire
arms themselves, and not knowing the use of those they had
taken,) and, ere the white men had recovered from the panic
which the sudden and unexpected attack occasioned, killed four
of them. The remaining four fought with their knives as long
as they were able, but were finally overpowered, and this poor
fellow left upon the ground, covered with wounds, and in a state

* Called by the inhabitants of this country, the" rascally Indians,''' fcom their
uuilbrnily evil disposition, and hostility to white people.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 229

of insensibility. How long he remained in this situation, he has
no means of ascertaining ; but upon recovering, the place was
vacated by all the actors in the bloody scene, except his three dead
companions, who were lying stark and stiff where they fell. By
considerable exertion, he was enabled to drag himself into a
thicket near, for the purpose of concealm'ent, as he rightly con-
jectured that their captors would soon return to secure the
trophies of their treacherous victory, and bury the corpses. This
happened almost immediately after ; the scalps were torn from
the heads of the slain, and the mangled bodies removed for inter-
ment. After the most dreadful and excrutiating sufferings, as we
can well believe, the poor man arrived here, and is doing well
under the excellent and skilful care of Doctor Gairdner. I ex-
amined most of his wounds yesterday. He is literally covered
with them, but one upon the lower part of his face is the most
frightful. It was made by a single blow of a tomahawk, the
point of which entered the upper lip, just below the nose, cutting
entirely through both the upper and lower jaws and chin, and
passing deep into the side of the neck, narrowly missing the large
jugular vein. He says he perfectly recollects receiving this
wound. It was inflicted by a powerful savage, who at the same
time tripped him with his foot, accelerating his fall. He also
remembers distinctly feeling the Indian's long knife pass five
separate times into his body ; of what occurred after this he
knows nothing. This is certainly by far the most horrible looking
wound I ever saw, rendered so, however, by injudicious treatment
and entire want of care in the proper apposition of the sundered
parts ; he simply bound it up as well as he could with his
handkerchief, and his extreme anguish caused him to forget
the necessity of accuracy in this respect. The consequence
is, that the lower part of his face is dreadfully contorted, one
side being considerably lower than the other. A union by the

230 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

first intention lias been formed, and the ill-arranged parts are
uniting.

This case has pi'oduced considerable excitement in our little
circle. The P<jtameos have more than once been guilty of acts
of this kind, and some of the gentlemen of the fort have proposed
fitting out an expedition to destroy the whole nation, but this
scheme will probably not be carried into effect.

ACROSS THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 231

CHAPTER XIV.

Indians of the Columbia — their melancholy condition — neparture of Mr. JWit-
tall and Dr. Gairdner — A 7ieiu vocation — fli-rival of the Rev. Samuel
Parker — his object — Departure of the American brig — Sivans — Indian mode
of taking them — A large wolf — An Indian mummy — A night adventure —
A discovery, and restoration of stolen property — Fraternal tenderness of an
Indian — Indian vengeance — Death of ff'ashSma, the Indian girl — " Busy-
body ^^* the little chief— A village of Kowalitsk Indians — Ceremony of
"making medicine''' — Exposure of an impostor — Success of legitimate medi-
cines— Departure from Fort Vancouver for a visit to the interior — Arrival
of a stranger — "Cape Horn'''' — Tilki, the Indian chief — Indian villages —
Arrival at Fort Walla-walla — Sharp-tailed grouse — Commencement of a
journey to the Blue mountains.

The Indians of the Columbia were once a numerous and pow-
erful people ; the shore of the river, for scores of miles, was
lined with their villages ; the council fire was frequently lighted,
the pipe passed round, and the destinies of the nation deliberated
upon. War was declared against neighboring tribes ; the deadly
tomahawk was lifted, and not buried until it was red with the
blood of the savage; the bounding deer was hunted, killed, and
his antlers ornamented the wigwam of the red man ; the scalps
of his enemies hung drying in the smoke of his lodge, and the
Indian was happy. Now, alas ! where is he ? — gone ; — gathered
to his fathers and to his happy hunting grounds ; his place knows
him no more. The spot where once stood the thickly peopled vil-
lage, the smoke curling and wreathing above the closely packed
lodges, the lively children playing in the front, and their indolent

232 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

parents lounging on their mats, is now only indicated by a heap
of undistinguishable ruins. The depopulation here has been truly
fearful. A gentleman told me, that only four years ago, as he
wandered near what had formerly been a thickly peopled
village, he counted no less than sixteen dead, men and woitien,
lying unburied and festering in the sun in front of their
habitations. Within the houses all were sick ; not ^one had
escaped the contagion ; upwards of a hundred individuals, men,
women, and children, were writhing in agony on the floors of
the houses, with no one to render them any assistance. Some
were in the dying struggle, and clenching with the convul-
sive grasp of death their disease-worn companions, shrieked and
howled in the last sharp agony.

Probably there does not now exist one, where, five years ago,
there were a hundred Indians; and in sailing up the river, from
the cape to the cascades, the only evidence of the existence of
the Indian, is an occasional miserable wigwam, with a few
wretched, half-starved occupants. In some other places they
are rather more numerous; but the thoughtful observer cannot
avoid perceiving that in a very few years the race must, in the
nature of things become extinct; and the time is probably not
far distant, when the little trinkets and toys of this people will
be picked up by the curious, and valued as mementoes of a nation
passed away for ever from the face of the earth. The aspect of
things is very melancholy. It seems as if the fiat of the Creator
had gone forth, that these poor denizens of the forest and the
stream should go hence, and be seen of men no more.

In former years, when the Indians were numerous, long after
the establishment of this fort, it was not safe for the white men
attached to it to venture beyond the protection of its guns with-
out being fully armed. Such was the jealousy of the natives
towards them, that various deep laid schemes were practised to
obtain possession of the post, and massacre all whom it had har-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 233

bored; now, however, they are as submissive as children. Some
have even entered into the service of the whites, and when once
the natural and persevering indolence of the man is worn off',
he will work well and make himself useful.

About two hundred miles southward, the Indians are said to
be in a much more flourishing condition, and their hostility to
the white people to be most deadly. They believe that we brought
with us the fatal fever which has ravaged this portion of the
, country, and the consequence is, that they, kill without mercy
every white man who trusts himself amongst them.

October 1st. — Doctor Gairdner, the surgeon of Fort Vancouver,
took passage a few days ago to the Sandwich Islands, in one of the
Company's vessels. He has been suffering for several months,
with a pulmonary affection, and is anxious to escape to a milder
and more salubrious climate. In his absence, the charge of the
hospital will devolve on me, and my time will thus be employed
through the coming winter. There are at present but few cases
of sickness, mostly ague and fever, so prevalent at this season.
My companion, Mr. Nuttall, was also a passenger in the same
vessel. From the islands, he will probably visit California, and
either return to the Columbia by the next ship, and take the
route across the mountains, or double Cape Horn to reach his
home.

IQth. — Several days since, the Rev. Samuel Parker, of Ithaca,
N. York, arrived at the fort. He left his home last May, travel-
led to the rendezvous on the Colorado, with the fur company of
Mr.Fontinelle, and performed the remainder of the journey with
the Nez Perce or Cheaptin Indians. His object is to examine
the country in respect to its agricultural and other facilities,
with a view to the establishment of missions among the Indians.
He will probably return to the States next spring, and report the

30

234 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

result of his observations to the board of commissioners, by
whose advice his pioneer journey has been undertaken.*

On the 17th, I embarked with this gentleman in a canoe, for a
visit to the lower part of the river. We arrived at the American
brig in the afternoon, on board of which we quartered for the
night, and the next morning early, the vessel cast off from the
shore. She has her cargo of furs and salmon on board, and is
bound to Boston, via the Sandwich and Society Islands. Mr.
Parker took passage in her to Fort George, and in the afternoon
I returned in my canoe to Vancouver.

December \st. — The weather is now unusually fine. Instead
of the drenching rains which generally prevail during the wintei;
months, it has been for some weeks clear and cool, the ther-
mometer ranging from 35° to 45°.

The ducks and geese, which have swarmed throughout the
country during the latter part of the autumn, are leaving us, and
the swans are arriving in great numbers. These are here, as in all
other places, very shy; it is difficult to approach them without
cover; but the Indians have adopted a mode of killing them
which is very successful ; that of drifting upon the flocks at night,
in a canoe, in the bow of which a large fire of pitch pine has
been kindled. The swans are dazzled, and apparently stupified
by the bright light, and fall easy victims to the craft of the
sportsman.

2Qth. — Yesterday one of the Canadians took an enormous wolf
in a beaver-trap. It is probably a distinct species from the com-
mon one, (lupus,) much larger and stronger, and of a yellowish
cinereous color. The man states that he found considerable diffi-
culty in capturing him, even after'the trap had been fastened on

* Mr. Parker has since published an account of this tour, to which the reader
is referred, for much valuable information, relative to tlie condition of the Indians
on our western frontier.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 235

his foot. Unlike tlie lupus, (which is cowardly and cringing
when made prisoner,) he showed fight, and seizing the pole in
his teeth, with which the man attempted to despatch him, with
one backward jerk, threw his assailant to the ground, and darted
at him, until checked by the trap chain. He was' finally shot,
and I obtained his skin, which I have preserved.

I have just had a visit from an old and intelligent Indian chief,
who lives near. It is now almost midnight, but for the last hour
I have heard the old man wandering about like an unquiet spirit,
in the neighborhood of my little mansion, and singing snatches
of the wild, but sweetly musical songs of his tribe. It is a bitter
night, and supposing the old man might be cold, I invited him to
a seat by my comfortable fire.

He says, ," eighty snows have chilled the earth since Mani-
quon was born." Maniquon has been a great warrior ; he has
himself taken twenty scalps between the rising and setting of the
sun. Like most old people, he is garrulous, and, like all Indians,
fond of boasting of his warlike deeds. I can sit for hours and
hear old Maniquon relate the particulars of his numerous cam-
paigns, his ambushes, and his " scrimmages," as old Hawk-eye
would say. When he once gets into the spirit of it, he springs
upon his feet, his old, sunken eyes sparkle like diamonds set in
bronze, and he whirls his shrunken and naked arm around his
head, as though it still held the deadly tomahawk. But in the
midst of his excitement, seeming suddenly to recollect his fallen
state, he sinks into his chair.

" Maniquon is not a warrior now — he will never raise his axe
again — his young men have deserted his lodge — his sons will go
down to their graves, and the squaws will not sing of their great
deeds."

I have several times heard him speak the substance of these
words in his own language, and in one instance he concluded
thus:

236 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEV

" And who made my people what they are ?" This question
was put in a low voice, almost a whisper, and was accompanied
by a look so savage and malignant, that I almost quailed before
the imbecile old creature. I, however, answered quickly, with-
out giving him time to reply to his own question.

" The Great Spirit, Maniquon," pointing with my finger im-
pressively upwards.

" Yes, yes — it vms the Great Spirit ; it was not the white
man /" I could have been almost angry with the old Indian for
the look of deadly hostility with which he uttered these last
words, but that I sympathized with his wounded pride, and pitied
his sorrows too much to harbor any other feeling than commise-
ration for his manifold wrongs.

February 3d, 1836. — During a visit to Fort William, last
week, I saw, as I wandered through the forest, about three miles
from the house, a canoe, deposited, as is usual, in the branches of
a tree, some fourteen feet from the ground. Knowing that it
contained the body of an Indian, I ascended to it for the purpose
of abstracting the skull ; but upon examination, what was my
surprise to find a perfect, embalmed body of a young female, in
a state of preservation equal to any which I had seen from the
catacombs of Thebes. I determined to obtain possession of it,
but as this was not the proper time to carry it away, I returned
to the fort, and said nothing of the discovery which I had made.

That night, at the witching hour of twelve, I furnished myself
with a rope, and launched a small canoe, which I paddled up
against the current to a point opposite the mummy tree. Here I
ran my canoe ashore, and removing my shoes and stockings,
proceeded to the tree, which was about a hundred yards from the
river. I ascended, and making the rope fast around the body,
lowered it gently to the ground ; then arranging the fabric which
had been displaced, as neatly as the darkness allowed, I de-
scended, and taking the body upon my shoulders, bore it to my

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 237

canoe, and pushed off into the stream. On arriving at the fort,
I deposited my prize in the store house, and sewed around it a
large Indian mat, to give it the appearance of a bale of guns.
Being on a visit to the fort, with Indians whom I had engaged
to paddle my canoe, I thought it unsafe to take the mummy on
board when I returned to Vancouver the next day, but left
directions with Mr. Walker to stow it away under the hatches
of a little schooner, which was running twice a week between
the two forts.

On the arrival of this vessel, several days after, I received,
instead of the body, a note from Mr. Walker, stating that an
Indian had called at the fort, and demanded the corpse. He
was the brother of the deceased, and had been in the habit of
visiting the tomb of his sister every year. He had now come
for that purpose, from his residence near the " turn-water,^''
(cascades,) and his keen eye had detected the intrusion of a
stranger on the spot hallowed to him by many successive pil-
grimages. The canoe of his sister was tenantless, and he knew
the spoiler to have been a white man, by the tracks upon the
beach, which did not incline inward like those of an Indian.

The case was so clearly made out, that Mr. W. could not
deny the fact of the body being in the house, and it was accord-
ingly delivered to him, with a present of several blankets, to
prevent the circumstance from operating upon his mind to the
prejudice of the white people. The poor Indian took the body of
his sister upon his shoulders, and as he walked away, grief got
the better of his stoicism, and the sound of his weeping was
heard long after he had entered the forest.

25i/^. — Several weeks ago the only son of Ke-ez-a-no, the prin-
cipal chief of the Chinooks, died. The father was almost
distracted with grief, and during the first paroxysm attempted to
take the life of the boy's mother, supposing that she had exerted
an evil influence over him which had caused his death. She

238 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

was compelled to fly in consequence, and put herself under the
protection of Dr. McLoughlin, who found means to send her to
her people below. Disappointed in this scheme of vengeance,
the chief determined to sacrifice all whom he thought had ever
wronged his son, or treated him with indignity ; and the first
victim whom he selected was a very pretty and accomplished
Chinook girl, named Waskema, who was remarkable for the
exceeding beauty of her long black hair, Waskema had been
solicited by the boy in marriage, but had refused him, and the
matter had been long forgotten, until it was revived in the re-
collection of the father by the death of his son. Ke-az-a-no
despatched two of his slaves to Fort William, (where the girl was
at that time engaged in making moccasins for Mr. W. and where
I had seen her a short time previously,) who hid themselves
in the neighborhood until the poor creature had embarked in her
canoe alone to return to her people,- when they suddenly rushed
upon her from the forest which skirted the river, and shot two
balls through her bosom. The body was then thrown into the
water, and the canoe broken to pieces on the beach.

Tapeo the brother of Waskema delivered to me a letter from
Mr. W. detailing these circumstances, and amid an abundance of
tears which he shed for the loss of his only and beloved sister, he
denounced the heaviest vengeance upon her murderer. These
threats, however, I did not regard, as I knew the man would
never dare to raise his hand against his chief, but as expression
relieves the overcharged heart, I did not check his bursts of grief
and indignation-

A few days after this, Ke-ez-a-no himself stalked into my room.
After sitting a short time in silence, he asked if I believed him
guilty of the murder of Waskema. I replied that I did, and that
if the deed had been committed in my country, he would be
hanged. He denied all agency in the matter, and placing one
hand upon his bosom, and pointing upwards with the other, called

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 239

God to witness that he was innocent. For the moment I almost
believed his asservations ; but calling to mind the strong and un-
deniable evidence against him, with a feeling of horror and re-
pugnance, I opened the door and bowed him out of the house.

March \st, — There is an amusing little Indian living in this
neighborhood, who calls himself a " tanas tie,''^ (little chief,) and
he is so probably in every sense of the term. In person, he
stands about four feet six, in his moccasins ; but no exquisite in
the fashionable world, no tinselled dandy in high life, can strut
and stamp, and fume with more dignity and self consequence.
His name, he says, is Qualaskin; but in the fort, he is known by
the cognomen of " busy body," from his restless anxiety to pry into
every body's business, and his curiosity to know the English name of
every article he sees; ikata ookook? — ikata ooA-ooA;?(whatis this? —
what is this 1) kahtah pasiooks yahhalle ? (what is its English
name?) are expressions which he is dinning in your ears, when-
ever he enters a room in the fort. If you answer him, he at-
tempts the pronunciation after you, and it is often not a little
ludicrous. He is evidently proud of the name the white people
have given him, not understanding its import, but supposing it to
be a title of great honor and dignity. If he is asked his Indian
name, he answers very modestly, Qualaskin, (muddy river,)
but if his pasiooks yahhalle is required, he puffs up his little per-
son to its utmost dimensions, and tells you with a simper of pride
and self complacency, that it is " mizzy moddyy

IQth. — Doctor W. F. Tolmie, one of the surgeons of the Hud-
son's Bay Company, has just arrived from Fort Langley, on the
coast, and has relieved me of the charge of the hospital, which
will afford me the opportunity of peregrinating again in pursuit of
specimens. The spring is just opening, the birds are arriving,
the plants are starting from the ground, and in a kw weeks, the
wide prairies of the Columbia will appear like the richest flower
gardens.

240 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

May ISth. — Two days ago I left the fort, and am now en-
camped on a plain below Warrior's point. Near me are several
large lodges of Kowalitsk Indians ; in all probably one hundred
persons. As usual, they give me some trouble by coming around
and lolling about my tent, and importuning me for the various
little articles that they see. My camp-keeper, however, (a Kli-
katat,) is an excellent fellow, and has no great love for Kowalitsk
Indians, so that the moment he sees them becoming troublesome,
he clears the coast, sans ceremonie. There is in one of the
lodges a very pretty little girl, sick with intermittent fever; and to-
day the " medicine man" has been exercising his functions upon
the poor little patient ; pressing upon its stomach with his brawny
hands until it shrieked with the pain, singing and muttering his
incantations, whispering in its ears, and exhorting the evil spirit to
pass out by the door, &c. These exhibitions would be laughable
did they not involve such serious consequences, and for myself
I always feel so much indignation against the unfeeling im-
postor who operates, and pity for the deluded creatures who
submit to it, that any emotions but those of risibility are excited.

I had a serious conversation with the father of this child, in
which I attempted to prove to him, and to some twenty or thirty
Indians who were squatted about the ground near, that the
" medicine man" was a vile impostor, that he was a fool and a
liar, and that his manipulations were calculated to increase the
sufferings of the patient instead of relieving them. They all
listened in silence, and with great attention to my remarks, and
the wily conjurer himself had the full benefit of them : he stood
by during the whole time, assuming an expression of callous
indifference which not even my warmest vituperations could
affect. Finally I offered to exhibit the strongest proof of the truth
of what I had been saying, by pledging myself to cure the child
in three days, provided the " medicine man" was dismissed with-
out delay. This, the father told me, required some consideration

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 241

and consultation with his people, and I immediately left the lodge
and took the way to my camp, to allow them an opportunity of
discussing the matter alone.

Early next morning the Indian visited me, with the infor-
mation that the " medicine man" had departed, and he was
now anxious that I should make trial of my skill. I immediately
administered to the child an active cathartic, followed by sul-
phate of quinine, which checked the disease, and in two days the
patient was perfectly restored.

In consequence of my success in this case, I had an applica-
tion to administer medicine to two other children similarly
affected. My stock of quinine being exhausted, I determined to
substitute an extract of the bark of the dogwood, (Cornus Nut-
talli,) and taking one of the parents into the wood with his blan-
ket, I soon chipped ofi' a plentiful supply, returned, boiled it in
his own kettle, and completed the preparation in his lodge, with
most of the Indians standing by, and staring at me, to compre-
hend the process. This was exactly what I wished ; and as I
proceeded, I took some pains to explain the whole matter to them,
in order that they might at a future time be enabled to make use
of a really valuable medicine, which grows abundantly every
where throughout the country. I have often thought it strange
that the sagacity of the Indians should not long ago have made
them acquainted with this remedy ; and I believe, if they had
used it, they would not have had to mourn the loss of hundreds,
or even thousands of their people who have been swept away by
the demon of ague and fever.

I administered to each of the children about a scruple of the
extract per day. The second day they escaped the paroxysm,
and on the third were entirely well.

June 26th. — I left Vancouver yesterday, with the summer
brigade, for a visit to Walla-walla, and its vicinity. The gentle-

31

242 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

men of the party are, Peter Ogden, Esq., chief factor, bound to
New Caledonia, Archibald McDonald, Esq., for Colville, and
Samuel Black, Esq., for Thompson's river, and the brigade con-
sists of sixty men, with nine boats.

21th. — We arrived yesterday at the upper cascades, and made
in the course of the day three portages. As is usual in this
place, it rained almost constantly, and the poor men engaged in
carrying the goods, were completely drenched. A considerable
number of Indians are employed here in fishing, and they supply
us with an abundance of salmon. Amonij them I recognise
many of my old friends from below.

2Qth. — This morning the Indian wife of one of the men gave
birth to a little girl. The tent in which she was lying was
within a few feet of the one which I occupied, and we had
no intimation of the matter being in progress until we heard the
crying of the infant. It is truly astonishing with what ease the
parturition of these women is performed ; they generally require
no assistance in delivery, being fully competent to managing the
whole paraphernalia themselves. In about half an hour after
this event we got under way, and the woman walked to the boat,
carrying her new born infant on her back, embarked, laughed,
and talked as usual, and appeared in every respect as well as if
nothing had happened.

This woman is a most noble specimen of bone and muscle, and
so masculine in appearance, that were she to cast the petticoat,
and don the breeches, the cheat would never be discovered, and
but few of the lords of the creation would be willing to face the
Amazon. She is particularly useful to her husband. As he is
becoming rather infirm, she can protect him most admirably.
If he wishes to cross a stream in travelling without horses or
boats, she plunges in without hesitation, takes him upon her
back, and lands him safely and expeditiously upon the opposite bank.
She can also kill and dress an elk, I'un down and shoot a buffalo,

ACROSS THE ROCKt MOUNTAINS, ETC. 243

or spear a salmon for her husband's breakfast in the morning, as
well as any man-servant he could employ. Added to all this,
she has, in several instances, saved his life in skirmishes with
Indians, at the imminent risk of her own, so that he has some
reason- to be proud of her.

In the afternoon, we passed the bold, basaltic point, known to
the voyageurs by the name of " Cape Horn." The wind here
blew a perfect hurricane, and but for the consummate skill of
those who managed our boats, we must have had no little
difficulty.

30^/t. — We were engaged almost the whole of this day in
making portages, and I had, in consequence, some opportunity of
prosecuting my researches on the land. We have now passed
the range of vegetation ; there are no trees or even shrubs ; no-
thing but huge, jagged rocks of basalt, and interminable sand
heaps. I found here a large and beautiful species of marmot, (the
Arctomys Richardsonii,) several of which I shot. Encamped
in the evening at the village of the Indian chief, Tilki. I had
often heard of this man, but I now saw him for the first time.
His person is rather below the middle size, but his features are
good, with a Roman cast, and his eye is deep black, and unu-
sually fine. He appears to be remarkably intelligent, and half a
century before the generality of his people in civilization.

July Sd. — This morning we came to the open prairies, covered
with wormwood bushes. The appearance, and strong odor of
these, forcibly remind me of my journey across the mou-ntains,
when we frequently saw no vegetation for weeks, except this dry
and barren looking shrub.

The Indians here are numerous, and are now enfjajred in
catching salmon, lamprey eels, &c. They take thousands of the
latter, and they are seen hanging in great numbers in their
lodges to dry in the smoke. As soon as the Indians see us
approach, they leave their wigwams, and run out towards us,

244 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

frequently wading to their breasts in the water, to get near the
boats. Their constant cry is pi-pi, pi-pi, (tobacco, tobacco,)
and they bring a great variety of matters to trade for this de-
sirable article ; fish, living birds of various kinds, young wolves,
foxes, minks, &c.

On the evenin<T of the 6th, we arrived at Walla-walla or Nez
Perces fort, where I was kindly received by Mr. Pambrun, the
superintendent.

The next day the brigade left us for the interior, and I
shouldered my gun for an excursion through the neighborhood.
On the west side of the little Walla-walla river, I saw, during a
walk of two miles, at least thirty rattlesnakes, and killed five
that would not get out of my way. They all seemed willing to
dispute the ground with me, shaking their rattles, coiling and
darting at me with great fury. I returned to the fort in the
afternoon with twenty-two sharp-tailed grouse, (Tetrao phasi-
anellus,) the product of my day's shooting.

2bth. — I mounted my horse this morning for a journey to the
Blue mountains. I am accompanied by a young half breed
named Babtiste Dorion,* who acts as guide, groom, interpreter,
&c., and I have a pack horse to carry my little nicTc-nacheries.
We shaped our course about N. E. over the sandy prairie, and in
the evening encamped on the Morro river, having made about
thirty miles. On our way, we met two Walla-walla Indians
driving down a large band of horses. They inform us that the
Snakes have crossed the mountain to commence their annual
thieving of horses, and they are taking them away to have them
secure. I shall need to keep a good look out to my own small
caravan, or I shall be under the necessity of turning pedestrian.

* This is the son of old Pierre Dorion, who makes such a consjiicuous figure in
Irving's " Astoria."

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAIINS, ETC. 245

CHAPTER XV.

A village of Kayoiise Indians — their occnpation — appearance and dresses of the
women— family laorship — its good effects — Visit to the Blue mountains —
Dusky grouse — Return to Walla-walla — Arrival of JMr. JHcLeod, and the
missionaries — Letters from home — Death of Antoine Goddin, the trapper — A
renegado -white man — Assault by the Walla-walla Indians — JYlissionary
duties — Passage do~tvn the Columbia — Rapids — A dog for supper — Prairies
onfre — A nocturnal visit — Fishing Indians — Their romantic appearance —
Salmon huts — The shoots — Dangerous navigation — Death of Tilki — Seals —
Indian stoicism and co7itempt of pain — Skookoom, the strong chief — his
death — JMaiming^ an evidence of grief — Arrival at Fort Vancouver — A visit
to Fort George — Indian cemeteries — Lewis and Clarke's hozise — A medal —
Visit to Chinook — Hospitality of the Indians — Chinamus'' house — The idol —
Canine inmates.

July 26th. — At noon, to-day, we arrived at the Utalla, or
Emmitilly river, where we found a large village of Kayouse In-
dians, engaged in preparing kamas. Large quantities of this
root were strewed about on mats and buffalo robes ; some in a
crude state, and a vast quantity pounded, to be made into cakes
for winter store. There are of the Indians, about twelve or
fifteen lodges. A very large one, about sixty feet long by fifteen
broad, is occupied by the chief, and his immediate family. This
man I saw when I arrived at Walla-walla, and I have accepted
an invitation to make my home in his lodge while I remain
here. The house is really a very comfortable one; the rays of
the sun are completely excluded, and the ground is covered with
buffalo robes. There are in the chief's lodge about twenty
women, all busy as usual ; some pounding kamas, others making

246 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

leathern dresses, moccasins, &c. Several of the younger of
these are very good looking, — I might almost say handsome.
Their heads are of the natural form, — not flattened and contorted
in the horrible manner of the Chinooks ; — their faces are in-
clining to oval, and their eyes have a peculiarly sleepy and
languishing appearance. They seem as if naturally inclined to
lasciviousness, but if this feeling exists, it is effectually checked
by their self-enacted laws, which are very severe in this respect,
and in every instance rigidly enforced. The dresses of the
women, (unlike the Chinooks, they all have dresses,) are of deer
or antelope skin, more or less ornamented with beads and hy-
quds.* It consists of one piece, but the part covering the bust,
projects over the lower portion of the garment, and its edges are
cut into strings, to which a quantity of blue beads are generally
attached.

In the evening all the Indians belonglncr to the villasre
assembled in our lodge, and, with the chief for minister, performed
divine service, or family worship. This, I learn, is their invari-
able practice twice every twenty-four hours, at sunrise in the
morning, and after supper in the evening. When all the people
had gathered, our large lodge was filled. On entering, every
person squatted on the ground, and the cleric (a sort of sub-
chief) gave notice that the Deity, would now be addressed.
Immediately the whole audience rose to their knees, and the chief
supplicated for about ten minutes in a very solemn, but low tone
of voice, at the conclusion of which an amen was pronounced by
the whole company, in a loud, swelling sort of groan. Three
hymns were then sung, several of the individuals present leading
in rotation, and at the conclusion of each, another amen. The
chief then pronounced a short exhortation, occupying about
fifteen minutes, which was repeated by the clerk at his elbow in
a voice loud enough to be heard by the whole assembly. At the

* A long white shell, of the genus Dcntalium, founil on the coast.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 247

conclusion of this, each person rose, and walked to one of tlie
doors of the lodge, where, making a low inclination of his body,
and pronouncing the words " tots sekan" (good night,) to the
chief, he departed to his home.

I shall hear this ceremony every night and morning while I
remain, and so far from being irksome, it is agreeable to me. It
is pleasant to see these poor degraded creatures performing a
religious service ; for to say nothing of the good influence which
it will exert in improving their present condition, it will probably
soften and harmonize their feelings, and render them fitter sub-
jects for the properly qualified religious instruction which it is
desirable they may some day receive.

The next morning, my friend the chief furnished me with fresh
horses, and I and my attendant, with two Indian guides, started
for a trip to the mountain. We passed up one of the narrow
valleys or gorges which here run at right angles from the alpine
land, and as we ascended, the scenery became more and more wild,
and the ground rough and difficult of passage, but I had under me
one of the finest horses I ever rode; he seemed perfectly acquainted
with the country ; I had but to give him his head, and not attempt
to direct him, and he carried me triumphantly through every diffi-
culty. Immediately as we I'eached the upper land, and the pine trees,
we saw large flocks of the dusky grouse, (Tetrao obscnrvs,) a num-
ber of which we killed. Other birds were, however, very scarce.
I am at least two months too late, and I cannot too much regret
the circumstance. Here is a rich field for the ornithologist at the
proper season. We returned to our lodge in the evening loaded
with grouse, but. with very few specimens to increase my collec-
tion.

29th. — Early this morning our Indians struck their lodges,
and commenced makina; all their numerous movables into bales
for packing on the horses. I admired the facility and despatch
with which this was done ; the women alone worked at it, the

/

248 ISAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

men lolling around, smoking and talking, and not even once di-
recting their fair partners in their task. The whole camp tra-
velled with me to Walla-walla, where we arrived the next day.

Sept. 1st. — Mr. John M'Leod, a chief trader of the Hudson's
Bay Company, arrived this morning from the rendezvous, with a
small trading party. I had been anxiously expecting this gentle-
man for several weeks, as I intended to return with him to Van-
couver. He is accompanied by several Presbyterian missiona-
ries, the Rev. Mr. Spalding and Doctor Whitman, with their
wives, and Mr. Gray, teacher. Doctor Whitman presented me
with a large pacquet of letters from my beloved friends at home.
I need not speak of the emotions excited by their reception, nor
of the trembling anxiety with which I tore open the envelope
and devoured the contents. This is the first intelligence which I
have received from them since I left the state of Missouri, and was
as unexpected as it was delightful.

Mr. M'Leod informed me of the murder of Antoine Goddin,
the half-breed trapper, by the Blackfeet Indians, at Fort Hall. —
A band of these Indians appeared on the shore of the Portneuf
river, opposite the fort, headed by a white man named Bird. —
This man requested Goddin, whom he saw on the opposite side
of the river, to cross to him with a canoe, as he had beaver
which he wished to trade. The poor man accordingly embarked
alone, and landing near the Indians, joined the circle which they
had made, and smoked the pipe of peace with them. While
Goddin was smoking in his turn, Bird gave a sign to the Indians,
and a volley was fired into his back. While he was yet living,
Bird himself tore the scalp from the poor fellow's head, and deli-
berately cut Captain Wyeth's initials, N. J. W. in large letters
upon his forehead. He then hallowed to the fort people, telling
them to bury the carcass if they wished, and immediately went
off with his party.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 249

This Bird was formerly attached to the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, and was made prisoner by the Blackfeet, in a skirmish
several years ago. He has since remained with them, and has
become a great chief, and leader of their war parties. He is said
to be a man of good education, and to possess the most unbound-
ed influence over the savage people among whom he dwells. He
was known to be a personal enemy of Goddin, whom he had
sworn to destroy on the first opportunity.

We also hear, that three of Captain Wyeth's men who lately
visited us, had been assaulted on their way to Fort Hall, by a band
of Walla-walla Indians, who, after beating them severely, took
from them all their horses, traps, ammunition, and clothing. They
were, however, finally induced to return them each a horse and
gun, in order that they might proceed to the interior, to get fresh
supplies. This was a matter of policy on the part of the Indians,
for if the white men had been compelled to travel on foot, they
would have come immediately here to procure fresh horses, &c.,
and thus exposed the plunderers. Mr. Pambrun is acquainted
with the ringleader of this band of marauders, and intends to
take the first opportunity of inflicting upon him due punishment,
as well as to compel him to make ample restitution for the stolen
property, and broken heads of the unoffending trappers.

I have had this evening, some interesting conversation with
our guests, the missionaries. They appear admirably qualified
for the arduous duty to which they have devoted themselves,
their minds being fully alive to the mortifications and trials inci-
dent to a residence among wild Indians ; but they do not shrink
from the task, believing it to be their religious duty to engage in
this work. The ladies have borne the journey astonishingly ;
they look robust and healthy.

3d. — Mr. M'Leod and myself embarked in a large bat-

teau, with six men, and bidding farewell to Mr. Pambrun and the

missionaries, were soon gliding down the river. We ran, to-day,

32

250 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

several rapids, and in the evening encamped about fifteen miles
below the mouth of the Utalla river.

This running of rapids appears rather a dangerous business
to those unaccustomed to it, and it is in reality sufficiently hazard-
ous, except when performed by old and skilful hands. Every
thing depends upon the men who manage the bow and stern of
the boat. The moment she enters the rapid, the two guides lay
aside their oars taking in their stead paddles, such as ai-e used
in the management of a canoe. The middle-men ply their oars;
the guides brace themselves against the gunwale of the boat,
placing their paddles edgewise down her sides, and away she
goes over the curling, foaming, and hissing waters, like a race
horse.

We passed to-day several large lodges of Indians, from whom
we wished to have purchased fish, but they had none, or were
not willing to spare any, so that we were compelled to purchase
a dog for supper. I have said we, but I beg leave to correct my-
self, as I was utterly averse to the proceeding ; not, however,
from any particular dislike to the quality of the food, (I have
eaten it repeatedly, and relished it,) but I am always unwilling,
unless when suffering absolute want, to take the life of so noble
and faithful an animal. Our hungry oarsmen, however, appeared
to have no such scruples. The Indian called his dog, and he
came to him, wagging his tail ! He sold his companion for ten
balls and powder! One of our men approached the poor animal
with an axe. I turned away my head to avoid the sight, but I
heard the dull, sodden sound of the blow. The tried friend and
faithful companion lay quivering in the agonies of death at its
master's feet.

We are enjoying a most magnificent sight at our camp this
evening. On the opposite side of the river, the Indians have
fired the prairie, and the whole country for miles around is most
brilliantly illuminated. Here am I sitting cross-legged on the

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 251

ground, scribbling by the light of the vast conflagration with as
much ease as if I had a ton of oil burning by my side ; but my
eyes are every moment involuntarily vv'andering from the paper
before me, to contemplate and admire the grandeur of the dis-
tant scene. The very heavens themselves appear ignited, and
the fragments of ashes and burning grass-blades, ascending and
careering about through the glowing firmament, look like brilliant
and glorious birds let loose to roam and revel amid this splendid
scene. It is past midnight : every one in the camp is asleep, and
I am this moment visited by half a dozen Indian fishermen, who
arc peering over my shoulders, and soliciting a smoke, so that I
shall have to stop, and fill my calamet.

btli. — The Indians are numerous along the river, and all
engaged in fishing ; as we pass along, we frequently see them
posted upon the rocks overhanging the water, surveying the boil-
ing and roaring food below, for the passing salmon. In most
instances, an Indian is seen entirely alone in these situations,
often standing for half an hour perfectly still, his eyes rivetted upon
the torrent, and his long fish spear poised above his head. The
appearance of a solitary and naked savage thus perched like an
eagle upon a cliff*, is sometimes, — when taken in connexion with
the wild and rugged river scenery, — very picturesque. The
spear is a pole about twelve feet in length, at the end of which a
long wooden fork is made fast, and between the tines is fixed a
barbed iron point. They also, in some situations, use a hand
scoop-net, and stand upon scaffolds ingeniously constructed over
the rapid water. Their winter store of dried fish is stowed away
in little huts of mats and branches, closely interlaced, and also
in caches under ground. It is often amusing to see the hungry
ravens tearing and tugging at the strong twigs of the houses, in
a vain attempt to reach the savory food within.

In the afternoon, we passed John Day's river, and encamped
about sunset at the *' shoots." Here is a very large village of

352 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

Indians, (the same that I noticed in my journal, on the passage
down,) and we are this evening surrounded by some scores of
them.

6th. — We made the portage of the shoots this morning by
carrying our boat and baggage across the land, and in half an
hour, arrived at one of the upper dalles. Here Mr. M'Leod
and myself debarked, and the men ran the dall. We walked on
ahead to the most dangerous part, and stood upon the rocks
about a hundred feet above to observe them. It really seemed
exceedingly dangerous to see the boat dashing ahead like light-
ning through the foaming and roaring waters, sometimes raised
high above the enormous swells, and dashed down again as if
she were seeking the bottom with her bows, and at others whirled
around and nearly sucked under by the whirlpools constantly
forming around her. But she stemmed every thing gallantly,
under the direction of our experienced guides, and we soon em-
barked again, and proceeded to the lower dalles. Here it is ut-
terly impossible, in the present state of the water, to pass, so that
the boat and baggage had to be carried across the whole portage.
This occupied the remainder of the day, and we encamped in the
evening at a short distance from the lower villages. The Indians
told us with sorrowful faces of the recent death of their
principal chief, Tilki. Well, thought I, the white man has lost
a friend, and long Avill it be before we see his like again ! The
poor fellow was unwell when I last saw him, with a complaint of
his breast, which I suspected to be pulmonary. I gave him a
few simple medicines, and told him I should soon see him again.
Well do I remember the look of despondency with which he
bade me farewell, and begged me to return soon and give him
more medicine. About two weeks since he ruptured a blood ves-
sel, and died in a short time.

We see great numbers of seals as we pass along. Immediately

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 253

below the Dalles they are particularly abundant, being attracted
thither by the vast shoals of salmon which seek the turbulent
water of the river. Wc occasionally shoot one of them as he
raises his dog-like head above the surface, but we make no
use of them ,• they are only valuable for the large quantity of oil
which they yield.

We observe on the breasts and bellies of many of the Indians
here, a number of large red marks, mostly of an oval form, some-
times twenty or thirty grouped together. These are wounds made
by their own hands, to display to their people the unwavering and
stoical resolution with which they can endure pain. A large
fold of the skin is taken up with the fingers, and sliced oif with a
knife; the surrounding fibre then retreats, and a large and ghastly
looking wound remains. Many that I saw to-day are yet
scarcely cicatrized. There is a chief here who obtained the dig-
nity which he now enjoys, solely by his numerous and hardy
feats of this kind. He was originally a common man, and pos-
sessed but one wife ; he has now six, and any of the tribe would
think themselves honored by his alliance. He is a most gigantic
fellow, about six feet four inches in height, and remarkably stout
and powerful. The whole front of his person is covered with the
red marks of which I have spoken, and he displays with con-
siderable pride the two scars of a bullet, which entered the left
breast, and passed out below the shoulder blade. This wound
he also made with his own hand, by placing the muzzle of his
gun against his breast, and pressing the trigger with his toe ;
and by this last, and most daring act, he was raised to the chief
command of all the Indians on the north side of the river. Now
that Tilki is no more, he will probably be chosen chief of all the
country from the cascades to Walla-walla, I asked him if he
felt no fear of death from the wound in his chest, at the time it
was inflicted. He said, no ; that his heart was strong, and that
a bullet could never kill him. He told me that he was entirely

254 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

well in a week after this occurrence, but that for two days he
vomited blood constantly. He is named by the Indians " Skoo-
koom,^^ (the strong.)

About six weeks after, Mr. M'Leod, who again returned from a
visit to Walla-walla, informed me that the strong chief was dead.
A bullet, (or rather two of them,) killed him at last, in spite of
his supposed invulnerability. He was shot by one of his people
in a fit of jealousy. Skookoom had assisted Mr. M'Leod with
his boats across the portage, and, being a chief, he of course
received more for the service than a common man. This
wretch, who was but a serf in the tribe, chose to be offended by
it, and vented his rage by murdering his superior. He fired a
ball from his own gun into his breast, which brought him to the
ground, and then despatched him with a second, which he seized
from another. So poor Skookoom has passed away, and such is
the frail tenure upon which an Indian chief holds his authority
and his life. The murderer will no doubt soon die by the hand
of some friend or relative of the deceased ; he in his turn will be
killed by another, and as usual, the bloody business will go on
indefinitely, and may even tend to produce an open war between
the rival parties.

I saw an old man here, apparently eighty years of age, who
had given himself three enormous longitudinal gashes in his leg,
to evince his grief for the loss of Tilki. From the sluggishness
of the circulation in the body of the poor old creature, combined
with a morbid habit, these wounds show no disposition to heal.
I dressed his limb, and gave him a strict charge to have it kept
clean, but knowing the universal carelessness of Indians in this
respect, I fear my directions will not be attended to, and the con-
sequence will probably be, that the old man will die miserably.
I spoke to him of the folly of such inflictions, and took this
opportunity of delivering a short lecture upon the same subject to
the others assembled in his lodge.

ACROSS THE KOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 255

At 11 o'clock next day we arrived at the cascades, where we
made the long portage, and at nine in the evening encamped in
an ash grove, six miles above Prairie de The.

On the 8th, reached Vancouver, where we found two vessels
which had just arrived from England.

On the 24th, I embarked in a canoe with Indians for Fort
George, and arrived in two days. Here I was kindly received
by the superintendent, Mr. James Birnie, and promised every
assistance in forwarding my views.

SOth. — I visited to-day some cemeteries in the neighborhood of
the fort, and obtained the skulls of four Indians. Some of the bodies
were simply deposited in canoes, raised five or six feet fi'om the
ground, either in the forks of trees, or supported on stakes driven
into the earth. In these instances it was not difficult to procure
the skulls without disarranging the fabric ; but more frequently,
they were nailed in boxes, or covered by a small canoe, which
was turned bottom upwards, and placed in a larger one, and the
whole covered by strips of bark, carefully arranged over them.
It was then necessary to use the utmost caution in removing the
covering, and also to be careful to leave every thing in the same
state in which it was found. I thought several times to day, as I
have often done in similar situations before : — Now suppose an
Indian were to step in here, and see me groping among the
bones of his fathers, and laying unhallowed hands upon the
mouldering remains of his people, what should I say ? — I know
well what the Indian would do. He would instantly shoot me,
unless I took the most effectual measures to prevent it; but could
I have time allowed me to temporize a little, I could easily dis-
arm his hostility and ensure his silence, by the offer of a shirt or
a blanket ; but the difficulty in most cases would be, that in a
paroxysm of rage he would puta bullet through your head, and then
good bye to temporizing. Luckily for my pursuits in this way, there
are at present but few Indians here, and I do not therefore incur

256 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

much risk ; were it otherwise, there would be no little danger in
these aggressions.

The corpses of the several different tribes which are buried
here, are known by the difference in the structureof their canoes;
and the sarcophagi of the chiefs from those of the common peo-
ple, by the greater care which has been manifested in the
arrantjement of the tomb.

October 14?A. — I walked to day around the beach to the foot
of Young's bay, a distance of about ten miles, to see the remains
of the house in which Lewis and Clark's party resided during
the winter which they spent here. The logs of which it is com-
posed, are still perfect, but the roof of bark has disappeared, and
the whole vicinity is overgrown with thorn and wild currant
bushes.

One of Mr. Birnie's children found, a few days since, a large
silver medal, which had been brought here by Lewis and Clark,
and had probably been presented to some chief, who lost it. On
one side was a head, with the name " Th. Jefferson, Presi-
dent of the United States, 1801." On the other, two hands
interlocked, surmounted by a pipe and tomahawk ; and above the
words, " Peace and Friendship."

Ibth. — This afternoon I embarked in a canoe with Chinamus,
and went with him to his residence at Chinook. The chief wel-
comed me to his house in a style which would do no discredit to
a more civilized person. His two wives were ordered to make a
bed for me, which they did by piling up about a dozen of their
soft mats, and placing my blankets upon them, and a better bed I
should never wish for. I was regaled, before I retired, with
sturgeon, salmon, wappatoos, cranberries, and every thing else
that the mansion afforded, and was requested to ask for any
thing I wanted, and it should be furnished me. Whatever may
be said derogatory to these people, I can testify that inhospitality
is not among the number of their failings. I never went into the

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 257

house of an Indian in my life, in any part of the country, with-
out being most cordially received and welcomed.

The chief's house is built in the usual way, of logs and hewn
boards, with a roof of cedar bark, and lined inside with mats.
The floor is boarded and matted, and there is a depression in the
ground, about a foot in depth and four feet in width, extending
the whole length of the building in the middle, where the fires
are made.

In this, as in almost every house, there is a large figure, or
idol, rudely carved and painted upon a board, and occupying a
conspicuous place. To this figure many of the Indians ascribe
supernatural powers. Chinamus says that if he is in any kind
of danger, and particulai-ly, if he is under the influence of an evil
spell, he has only to place himself against the image, and the
difficulty, of whatever kind, vanishes at once. This certainly
savors of idolatry, although I believe they never address the
uncouth figure as a deity. Like all other Indians, they acknow-
ledge a great and invisible spirit, who governs and controls, and
to whom all adoration is due.

Attached to this establishment, are three other houses, simi-
larly constructed, inhabited by about thirty Indians, and at least
that number of dogs. These, although very useful animals in
their place, are here a great nuisance. They are of no possible
service to the Indians, except to eat their provisions, and fill their
houses with fleas, and a stranger approaching the lodges, is in
constant danger of being throttled by a legion of fierce brutes,
who are not half as hospitable as their masters.

I remained here several days, making excursions through the

neighborhood, and each time when I returned to the lodge, the

dogs growled and darted at me. I had no notion of being bitten,

so I gave the Indians warning, that unless the snarling beasts

were tied up when I came near, I would shoot every one of

them. The threat had the eflTect desired, and afler this, when-

33

258 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

ever I approached the lodges, there was a universal stir among
the people, and the words, " iskam kahmooks, iskam kahmooks,
kalakalah tie chahko," (take up your dogs, take up your dogs,
the bird chief is coming,) echoed through the little village, and
was followed by the yelping and snarling of dozens of wolf-dogs,
and " curs of low degree," all of which were gathered in haste
to the cover and protection of one of the houses.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 259

CHAPTER XVI.

JVorthern excursion — Large shoals of salmon — Indian mode of catching them —
House near the beach — Flathead children — A storm on the bay — Loss of pro-
vision— Pintail ducks — Simple mode of killing salmon — Return to Chinook —
Indian garrulity — Return to Fort George — Preparations for a second trip
to the Sandwich Islands — Detention within the cape — Anxiety to depart —
The tropics, and tropic birds — Make the island of Maui — Arrival at
Oahu — Accession to the society — A visit with Mr. Cotvie to the king —
Illness of the princess, Uarieta JVahienaena — Abrupt exit of the king — A
ride to Waitili — Cocoanut grove — J^'ative mode of climbing — Death of the
princess — gHef of her people — barbarous ceremonies — Residenj^e in the valley
of JVuano — A visit to the palace — Kahiles — Coffin of the princess, and in-
scription — appurtenances — ceremony of carrying the body to the church —
description of the pageant — dress of the king — conclusion of the ceremony.

October 17th. — I left Chinook this morning in a canoe with
Chinamus, his two wives, and a slave, to procure shell-fish,
which are said to be found in great abundance towards the north.
We passed through a number of narrow slues which connect the
numerous bays in this part of the country, and at noon debarked,
left our canoe, took our blankets on our shoulders, and struck
through the midst of a deep pine forest. After walking about
two miles, we came to another branch, where we found a canoe
which had been left there for us yesterday, and embarking in
this, wo arrived in the evening at an Indian house, near the sea-
side, where we spent the night.

In our passage through some of the narrow channels to-day,
we saw vast shoals of salmon, which were leaping and curvetting

260 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEi'

about in every direction, and not unfrequently dashing their
noses against our canoe, in their headlong course. We met here
a number of Indians engaged in fishing. Their mode of taking
the salmon is a very simple one. The whole of the tackle con-
sists of a pole about twelve feet long, with a large iron hook
attached to the end. This machine they keep constantly trailing
in the water, and when the fish approaches the surface, by a
quick and dexterous jerk, they fasten the iron into his side, and
shake him off" into the canoe. They say they take so many
fish that it is necessary for them to land about three times a day
to deposit them.

The house in which we sleep to-night is not near so com-
fortable as the one we have left. It stinks intolerably of salmon,
which are hanging by scores to the roof, to dry in the smoke,
and our bed being on the dead level, we shall probably suffer
somewhat from fleas, not to mention another unmentionable insect
which is apt to inhabit these dormitories in considerable profusion.
There are here several young children; beautiful, flat-headed,
broad-faced, little individuals. One of the little dears has taken
something of a fancy to me, and is now hanging over me, and
staring at my book with its great goggle eyes. It is somewhat
strange, perhaps, but I have become so accustomed to this uni-
versal deformity, that I now scarcely notice it. I have often
been evilly disposed enough to wish, that if in the course of events
one of these little beings should die, I could get possession of it.
I should like to plump the small carcass into a keg of spirits,
and send it home for the observation of the curious.

18th. — Last night the wind rose to a gale, and this morning it
is blowing most furiously, making the usually calm water of
these bays so turbulent as to be dangerous for our light craft.
Notwithstanding this disadvantage, the Indians were in favor of
starting for the sea, which we accordingly did at an early hour.
Soon after we left, in crossing one of the bays, about three-quar-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 2G1

ters of a mile in width, the water suddenly became so agitated as
at first nearly to upset our canoe. A perfect hurricane was
blowing right ahead, cold as ice, and the water was dashing over
us, and into our little bark, in a manner to frighten even the
experienced chief who was acting as helmsman. In a few
minutes we were sitting nearly up to our waistbands in water,
although one of the women and myself were constantly bailing it
out, employing for the purpose the only two hats belonging to the
party, my own and that of the chief. We arrived at the shore
at length in safety, although there was scarcely a dry thread on
us, and built a tremendous fire with the drift-wood which we
found on the beach. We then dried our clothes and blankets as
well as we could, cooked some ducks that we killed yesterday,
and made a hearty breakfast. My stock of bread, sugar, and
tea, is completely spoiled by the salt water, so that until I return
to Fort George, I must live simply ; but I think this no hardship :
what has been done once can be done again.

In the afternoon the women collected for me a considerable
number of shells, several species of Cardium, Citherea, Ostrea,
&c., all edible, and the last very good, though small.

The common pintail duck, {Anas acuta,) is found here in vast
flocks. The chief and myself killed twenty-six to-day, by a
simultaneous discharge of our guns. They are exceedingly fat
and most excellent eating ; indeed all the game of this lower
country is far superior to that found in the neighborhood of Van-
couver. The ducks feed upon a small submerged vegetable
which grows in great abundance upon the reedy islands in this
vicinity.

The next day we embarked early, to return to Chinook The
wind was still blowing a gale, but by running along close to the
shore of the stormy bay, we were enabled, by adding greatly to
our distance, to escape the difiiculties against which we con-

262 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

tended yesterday, and regained the slues with tolerably dry gar-
ments.

At about 10 o'clock, we arrived at the portage, and struck in-
to the wood, shouldering our baggage as before. We soon came
to a beautiful little stream of fresh water, where we halted, and
prepared our breakfast. In this stream, (not exceeding nine feet
at the widest part,) I was surprised to observe a great number of
large salmon. Beautiful fellows, of from fifteen to twenty-five
pounds weight, darting and playing about in the crystal water,
and often exposing three-fourths of their bodies in making their
way through the shallows. I had before no idea that these noble
fish were ever found in such insignificant streams, but the In-
dians say that they always come into the rivulets at this season,
and return to the sea on the approach of winter. Our slave
killed seven of these beautiful fish, while we made our hasty
breakfast, his only weapon being a light cedar paddle.

We reached Chinook in the evening, and as we sat around the
fires in the lodge, I was amused by the vivid description given
to the attentive inhabitants by Chinamus and his wives, of the
perils of our passage across the stormy bay. They all spoke at
once, and described most minutely every circumstance that oc-
curred, the auditors continually evincing their attention to the
relation by a pithy and sympathizing hugh. They often appealed
to me for the truth of what they were saying, and, as in duty
bound, I gave an assenting nod, although at times I fancied they
were yielding to a propensity, not uncommon among those of
Christian lands, and which is known by the phrase, " drawing a
long bow."

2\st, — The wind yesterday was so high, that I did not con-
sider it safe to attempt the passage to Fort George. This morn-
ing it was more calm, and we put off" in a large canoe at sunrise.
When we had reached the middle of Young's bay, the wind again
rose, and the water was dashing over us in fine style, so that we

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 263

were compelled to make for the shore and wait until it subsided.
\Vc lay by about an hour, when, the water becoming more
smooth, we again got under way, and arrived at Fort George
about noon.

On the 5th of November, I returned to Vancouver, and imme-
diately commenced packing my baggage, collection, &c., for a pas-
sage to the Sandwich Islands, in the barque Columbia, which is now
preparing to sail for England. This is a fine vessel, of three hundred
tons, commanded by Captain Royal ; we shall have eight passen-
gers in the cabin; Captain Darby, formerly of this vessel, R.
Cowie, chief trader, and others.

On the 21st, we dropped down the river, and in two days
anchored off the cape. We have but little pi'ospect of being able
to cross the bar ; the sea breaks over the channel with a roar
like thunder, and the surf dashes and frets against the rocky cape
and drives its foam far up into the bay,

I long to see blue water again. I am fond of the sea ; it suits
both my disposition and constitution ; and then the reflection, that
now every foot I advance will carry me nearer to my beloved
home, is in itself a most powerful inducement to urge me on.
But much as I desire again to see home, much as I long to em-
brace those to whom T am attached by the strongest ties, I have
nevertheless felt something very like regret at leaving Vancouver
and its kind and agreeable residents. I took leave of Doctor
McLoughlin with feelings akin to those with which I should bid
adieu to an affectionate parent ; and to his fervent, " God bless
you, sir, and may you have a happy meeting with your friends,"
I could only reply by a look of the sincerest gratitude. Words
are inadequate to express my deep sense of the obligations which
I feel under to this truly generous and excellent man, and I fear
I can only repay them by the sincerity with which I shall always
cherish the recollection of his kindness, and the ardent prayers 1
shall breathe for his prosperity and happiness.

264 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

30th. — At daylight this morning, the wind being fair, and the
bar more smooth, we weighed anchor and stood out. At about
9 o'clock we crossed the bar, and in a few minutes were hurry-
ing along on the open sea before a six-knot breeze. We are now
out, and so good bye to Cape Disappointment and the Columbia,
and now for home, dear home asjain !

December I6th. — We are now in the delightful tropics, and
more lovely weather I never saw — clear, warm and balmy, but
not in the slightest degree debihtating — and a fine trade wind, be-
fore which we are going eight and a half knots. This morning
we saw a number of beautiful tropic birds flying around the
vessel. This is one of the loveliest birds in the world. With a
plumage of the most unsullied white, a form which is grace itself,
and with long red tail-feathers streaming in the wind, it looks
like a beautiful sylph sporting over the desolate ocean.

On the 22d, we made the island of Maui, distant about twenty-
five miles. This evening is a most delightful one, as indeed are
all the evenings in this latitude. The moon is shining most
brilliantly, the atmosphere is deliciously warm, and we are sail-
ing over a sea as smooth as a lake, with the island of Morokai
about ten miles on our weather beam.

On the morning of the 23d, we made Oahu, and as we rounded
Diamond Hill, Adams, the pilot, boarded us, and brought us
close outside the harbor, where we anchored for want of wind.
The captain, Mr. Cowie, and myself, went ashore in the pilot
boat, and paid our respects to a number of old friends who were
assembled on the wharf to meet and welcome us.

January \st, 1837. — Since we arrived, we have been so con-
stantly engaged in visiting, receiving visits, and performing the
usual penance imposed upon strangers visiting this island, that I
have not had an opportunity of continuing my notes. I am now
so much in arrears that I scarcely know where to begin, and
many little circumstances, in themselves, perhaps, trifling enough,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 265

but which, at the time of their occurrence interested me, must of
necessity have escaped my recollection.

On my arrival, Mr. George Pelly, agent of the Honorable
Hudson's Bay Company, kindly invited me to his house, where I
remained three days, and at the end of that time, Mr. Jones pro-
cured for me a neat and very comfortable grass cottage, in which
I live like a prince.

The society of the town has been considerably augmented and
improved since my last visit, by the importation, from the United
States, of some four or five young ladies, and they have routes
and balls, and lu au parties in abundance.

Sd. — This morning, Mr. Cowie and myself called at the palace
to see the king. At the door, we were met by one of his nume-
rous attendants, who informed us that his majesty was not within,
and offered his services to conduct us to his ojice, where he
usually spends his mornings. Here we found him, and made our
greetings, which he received and returned in a handsome manner.
He gave us a glass of excellent Madeira, and a cigar, and we
smoked and chatted with him very pleasantly for half an hour.
He does not look so well as when I last saw him; is even more
careless in his person, and he never was remarkable for neatness
or particularity in his attire. Some allowance should, however,
be made for him now, as he is suffering great distress of mind on
account of the extreme illness of his favorite and only sister,
the princess Harieta Nahienaena. This is the girl of whom
mention is so often made in Mr. Stewart's journals. She is said
to be very amiable and kind, and is universally beloved and re-
spected by her people. While we were yet conversing with the
king, a messenger came to say that she was worse, and desired to
see him. He excused himself to us in a rather flurried and impa-
tient manner, but which was nevertheless not devoid of grace,
and we saw his majesty dart out of the door and run across the

street in the direction of his sister's house, without a coat or

34

266 iVAREATIVE OF A JOURNEY

braces to liis trousers, in a manner neither very dignified or
kingly, but one which indicated most strongly the deep interest
and attachment with which he regards the last scion of his noble
house. Should Harieta die, the royal Hawaiian line will be
broken for ever, the insignia of Sandwich Island rank will be
buried in her tomb, and the children of her reigning brother will
not inherit their father's rank. The princess is married to a
chief named Leleahoku, commonly called " young Pitt." She
has just given birth to a child, which died a few hours after, and
she is now suffering from severe puerperal fever. Dr. Rooke,
who attends her, feels very slight hopes of her recovery.

4:th. — This afternoon Mr. Josiah Thompson, Mr. Cowie, and
myself, rode down to Waititi, and to Diamond Hill. The day has
been a most delightful one, our horses were excellent, and we
enjoyed the ride highly. In the upper part of the Waititi district,
we passed through an extensive and beautiful cocoanut grove,
probably a mile in length, by half a mile in width.

In the midst of this grove, we came to a small group of native
houses, the inhabitants of which came running around our horses,
the younger branches, in a state of perfect nudity, and capering
about like so many little imps of darkness. I told them I should
like to have a couple of nuts from one of the trees. I had hardly
spoken before two of them ran to the nearest, and commenced
mounting, one each side, and then, best fellow reached the top
soonest. They climbed just like monkeys, placing their arms
half way round the tree, and their feet flat against it, and then
actually jumping up the perpendicular trunk. The exhibition
was so exceedingly ludicrous, that I was indulging myself in a
hearty laughing fit, when my cachination was suddenly inter-
rupted by two nuts falling so near me that I felt in some danger of
having my brains knocked out. I suspended my mirth, to shake
my fist threateningly at the young urchins, who immediately slid

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 267

to the ground, and with the greatest good humor, held out their
hands to receive a rial for their trouble.

The milk of the young cocoanut, when fresh from the tree, is
peculiarly delicious and refreshing ; no idea can be formed of its
excellence by those who have only tasted the stale fruit at
home.

6th. — Yesterday the princess Harieta died. Scarcely was
the circumstance known in the town, when it was announced
to all by the most terrific and distressing crying and wailing
amonrffet all ranks and classes of people. The natives, parti-
cularly the women, walked the streets, weeping bitterly and
loudly, and real' briny tears were falling from their eyes in plen-
teous showers. This most lugubrious exhibition is common on
the occasion of the death of any of the high chiefs ; but in the
present instance there is evidently evinced much real feeling. In
the afternoon, Mr. Deppe, (a Prussian gentleman,) and myself,
walked to the king's palace to see the mourners vvho were col-
lected there. We found the large enclosed space surrounding
the house, filled with natives of both sexes, to the number of per-
haps a thousand, all of whom were weeping in their loudest key.
Young, active men and women, and the old and decrepid, who
had just strength enough to crawl to the scene of action, chiefs
and common people, public functionaries and beggars ; all were
mingled in one common herd, bewailing in chorus their common
loss.

I observed several women of the higher class standing in a
group somewhat apart from the great concourse, who appeared
affected in a peculiar manner. Tossing their arms over their
heads, and behind their necks, beating their breasts violently and
frantically, and raging with their voices during the whole time,
as though they were suffering the most acute agony. In a few
minutes, this violent paroxysm would subside, and then the poor
creatures would fall to the ground exhausted and breathless.

268 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

After about a minute spent in total inactivity, and apparent
stupor, the voice and physical powers were suddenly recovered,
and the consequence was, a long succession of the most horrid
shrieks, the mourners rolling over and over upon the ground,
biting the earth, and sobbing loud enough to be heard above the
dreadful din of the multitude. Soon after this, commenced the
most disgusting and barbarous part of the whole exhibition. A
number of men and women, and even some little boys and girls,
laid themselves upon their backs on the ground, and a man ap-
proached them with a small ivory, or hard wood wedge, and a
large oval stone in his hand. He commenced his operations
upon the first of the victims, who was a fine looking young man,
by placing the wedge between two of his front teeth, and striking
it a hard and quick blow with the stone. This loosened it effec-
tually ; then by inserting the wedge upon the opposite side, and
giving another similar blow, out flew the tooth in an instant. In
this manner, every person who was lying there, lost, some two,
others three of his front teeth, and during the whole time the cry-
ing was not suspended for a moment.

The question naturally arises ? — Why have not the mission-
aries, who have such unbounded influence over this people, taken
measures to abolish this most barbarous and shocking custom ?
They have, as I well know, used great exertions to do it away,
and so far as the higher ranks of society are concerned, they have
probably succeeded ; but there are yet, and will for some time be,
hundreds among the common people upon whom they can exert
little or no influence. Reason and argument are thrown away
upon such, as nothing will convince them of the inutility and
absurdity of so old and long established a custom.

How often, how very often, do I thank Providence in my
heart, that I was born in a Christian and enlightened country,
free from the shackles of barbarism, and under the influence of
benign and wholesome laws. It is a blessing which those only,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 269

who have witnessed a diifereut state of things in other lands can
properly appreciate.

15th. — Several days ago Mr. Deppe and myself visited Nuano
valley, where we hired a native house, in which we are now
living. Our object has been to procure birds, plants &c. and wc
have so far been very successful. I have already prepared about
eighty birds which I procured here. We have a very good and
comfortable cottage, and a more delightful country residence I
certainly never saw. The valley here is narrow, only about a
quarter of a mile across, and the mountains on either side, at
least two thousand feet in height, are clothed with the most
beautiful verdure.- Within gunshot of our dwelling, there is a
cascade of delightfully cold mountain water, which falls perhaps
thirty feet ; the basin below gives us an excellent bath, and we can
take a shower when we wish it, by standing under one of the jets.
As our cottage is situated upon elevated ground, we have a fine
view of the town of Honoruru, five miles from us, as well as the
lovely harbor and the shipping. I am so pleased with this resi-
dence, on every account, that I shall be loath to leave it ; I have
escaped from the bustle, and confusion, and dissipation of the
town, from the, at times, almost insufferable heat which prevails
there, and am living exactly as I wish, in a retired and quiet
manner. We never suffer from heat here, and although this is
the rainy season, we have had, so far, fine, clear weather.

27th. — I went, this morning, again to the palace of the king,
accompanied by Captain Charlton, the British Consul, to view
the remains of the princess. We saw there the widowed hus-
band, Governor Boki, Kanaina, and several other chiefs. Their
grief appears to have almost entirely evaporated. The hand of
time has had the effect, not only to soften down the pangs of re-
cent sorrow, but even to render those who were but a few days
ago under its severest influence, alive to all the joyousness and
sprightly emotions attendant upon a reaction.

270 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

The leaden coffin is now enclosed in one of wood, covered
with rich crimson velvet, and elaborately studded, and ornament-
ed with brass. On the top is a brass plate, with this inscrip-
tion :

" Harieta

Nahienaena,

22 Makahiki, i make

i detemaba, he 30

la, i ka makahiki,

o ko haku,

1836."*

The coffin rests upon a tressel in the centre of the large house,
and underneath it is a native mat of the finest and most delicate
workmanship. This mat is considered a great curiosity. It was
made in the time of Tamehameha, and was presented to his
queen. The grass of which it is composed is about the thickness
of a horse hair, and the fabric is soft and pliant as a silken cloth.
The coffin is covered with a large cloak, made of the splendid
yellow feathers of one of the native birds, and is surrounded by
about a dozen of the magnificent insignia of royalty, called
kahiles. These kahiles are made of the feathers of different

* Harieta
Nahienaena,
aged 22 years, died
on tlie 30th of December,
in the year
of our Lord,
1836.
This appears like a contradiction. It is stated on tlie coffin plate, that the prin-
cess died on the 30th of December, when it did not actually occur until the 5th of
January. This is accounted for, by the peculiar, and in some measure, reasonable
doctrine of tlie Sandwich Islanders, that a person experiences two deaths ; one of
the mind, and another of the body. Now the mi7id of the princess died, i. e., be-
came deranged, on the 30lh of December, although Iier body did not die until the
5lh of Januarv.

ACROSS THE ROCKV^ MOUNTAINS, ETC. 271

birds, and some of the tail plumes of the common dung-hill cock,
fastened together with light pieces of bamboo, and arranged cylin-
drically on a long pole. Many of the kahiles are as large in cir-
cumference as a hogshead, and some few not thicker than a man's
leg. Including the handle, they are, most of them, from eighteen
to twenty-five feet in length. The handle is composed of alternate
rings of tortoise shell and fine ivory, so accurately fitted, and
beautifully polished, as to appear at a short distance like one
piece. I observed that one of these handles was tipped with the
bone of a human leg, and upon inquiry learned that it had be-
longed to one of the ancient kings. This was also finely polished,
and looked like ivory, but the joint by which it was terminated
had a rather grim and ghastly appearance. One of these kahiles
is of so ancient a date, that the natives have no tradition respect-
ing its fabrication. It is indeed a most antiquated looking affair,
composed of a wiry sort of white feather from a bird which is
now either entirely extinct, or which had been brought from a
distance.

All these splendid and costly ornaments will be buried in the
tomb of Harieta, where they will always remain.

February 3(Z. — This was the day appointed for the ceremony
of carrying the body of the princess to the church. After the
rite was finished, it was brought back to the palace, where it will
remain for a considerable time, previous to its removal to Maui.
Yesterday the king sent invitations, through the consuls, to all
the foreign residents and visiters, and at one o'clock to-day, all
were assembled at the palace. The coffin still remained in the
situation in which I last saw it, surrounded by the kahiles. The
house was well filled by foreigners and natives of rank, and the
large enclosure without was crowded. The common men were
variously attired, but the great concourse of women were clothed
in black from head to foot. After we had waited about an hour,

272 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the king, and Leleahoku, (the husband of the deceased,) entered.
The foreigners all uncovered their heads, and his majesty ac-
knowledged the civility by removing his own hat, and making a
low and very graceful bow. He was most magnificently attired
in a fine blue regimental coat, richly embroidered with gold and
silver lace, and two splendid gold epaulets on the shoulders. His
pantaloons were of very delicate white cassimere, embroidered
down the seams with gold lace, and from a crimson sash de-
pended a beautiful, and highly ornamented dress sword, the
scabbard of which was of fine gold. His chapeau bras was in
keeping with the rest of his attire, being of black beaver, orna-
mented with broad bands of frold filligree.*

The tout ensemble was in the highest degree magnificent and
kingly, and he wore the dress with most becoming dignity. His
age is about two and twenty, his stature five feet ten, and the
proportions of his person are most decidedly and strictly symme-
trical. Like most of the chiefs, he appears to be inclining to
obesity, and will probably in a kw years lose much of the beauty
of his form. He is now, however, one of the most graceful and
dignified men in his appearance that I ever beheld. Young Pitt
has a good, and rather handsome face, but the graces of his
person bear no comparison with those of his brother-in-law.
His attire was also rich, with uniform coat, epaulets, chapeau
bras and sword, and all the high chiefs were nearly similarly
habited.

The procession was headed by a band of very good music,

* This most splendid and appropriate uniform was presented some years ago to
the king, by subscription of the foreign residents at Oahu. It was made in Lima
and cost eight hundred dollars ! The presentation is said to have been rather im-
posing. It took place at the palace, and most of the high chiefs were present. Mr.
Jones made a speech on the occasion, which was promptly replied to by his
majesty.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 273

most of the performers being negroes. Next followed the
missionaries in double file ; then the hearse, which was a small
plain cart, drawn by about twenty natives. Next came the king,
who walked immediately behind the coffin ; he was followed
closely by young Pitt, also alone, and then came the high chiefs,
men and women, to the number of about thirty, in double file.
On either side of the hearse, the magnificent kahiles were borne
aloft by a number of the sub-chiefs, and favorites of the royal
household, and so enormously heavy were some of these, par-
ticularly when the wind struck them, that each of them required
the utmost exertion of four or five strong men to keep it in a
vertical position. After the chiefs, followed all the respectable
foreigners, two and two, headed by the consuls, to the number of
perhaps a hundred ; then a long line of females, all habited in
deep black, and the rear was brought up by a motley throng of
all denominations, and in every variety of costume. From the
head of the procession, nearly to the foot on each side, walked
the king's guards in Indian file. They were dressed in a com-
plete suit of white, with red and blue cuffs to their jackets, and
every man carried his musket reversed. When the line was
formed, the band played a solemn dead march, and the proces-
sion moved toward the native church at the lower end of the town.
During the whole distance, about a mile, the ground had been
strown with fresh grass, forming a pleasant carpet, and prevent-
ing, in a great measure, the rising of clouds of dust, which would
otherwise have been very uncomfortable.

The whole pageant was " got up" with the greatest splendor
and was conducted with singular order and regularity, nothing
occurring which in the slightest degree tended to produce con-
fusion.

When the procession arrived at the church, the music ceased ;
a large bell which hangs in the area, was tolled every ten se-
conds, and the whole company entered the house and sought

35

274 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

their seats. The bier Was placed on the ground opposite the
pulpit, the king and the other chiefs sitting by the side of it, and
the bearers kneeling beneath the cai*t. The service was opened
by an address in the native language by the Rev. Mr. Bingham ;
this was followed by hymns, short addresses, and prayers alter-
nately, by several other missionaries who were present. At the
conclusion of the service, which occupied about one and a half
hours, the procession again formed, and returned in the same
order to the palace, when, after a short prayer, in the native lan-
guage, from Mr. Bingham, the cavalcade dispersed.

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 275

CHAPTER XVII,

Embarkation for a tour of the islands — Lahaina — Forts — Lahainaluna — JJfts-
sionaries of Maui — Hiffh school — Progress of the pupils — Karakakua bay —
Kairua — Cook's rock — reverence of the natives for his memory — Cook's
monument — Birds — Kawaihae — Colossal mountains — jyirs. Young — Heiau, or
native temple — Human sacrifices — Moral — Heathenish rites — A cargo of cat-
tle— Unsavory practice of the native ivomen — Departure from Oahu — A sail
by moonlig-ht — Dean's island — Jl " complaisant" — Arrival at Tahiti — JVative
pilot — Papeete bay — Appearance of the shore — Visit from foreigners — A ram-
ble on shore — Orange groves, &c A young native songster — Visit to the

queen— Mr. Pritchard, the missionary — JVative service — The chapel — A
bedridden Tahaitian — Jungle fowls — Leave the harbor — Dangerous naviga-
tion— A narrow escape — A shipxvreck.

9th. — Mr. French kindly offered me a assage in his brig
Diana, Captain Hinckley, to make a short tour of the islands.
The object of the trip is to carry lumber to several of the ports,
to trade with the natives, and to bring to Oahu a cargo of live
stock, cattle, &c. The time allowed will be so short that I shall
probably not be able to do much in my vocation, but I shall at
least be furnished with an opportunity of visiting several islands,
and as we have pleasant companions as passengers, besides our
agreeable and accomplished captain, we anticipate a delightful
trip.

We stood out of the harbor in the afternoon, and the next
evening made Maui, but as we came under the land it fell calm,
with a heavy ground swell, and we were tossing about most un-
comfortably the whole night.

276 NARRATIVE or A JOURNEY

lAth. — Yesterday we made Maui again, after having been
cruising around the islands at the mercy of contrary winds, since
Friday. Several of our passengers have been constantly sea-
sick, and our anticijmted pleasure has been thus very much les-
sened.

When I rose this morning, we were off the pretty village of
Lahaina, and in about two hours after, we dropped our anchor
within half a mile.

While the ship's people were engaged in discharging cargo,
Mr. Paty, (one of our passsengers,) and myself went ashore to
see the town. The village is one of the prettiest I have seen :
many of the houses are built of stone, handsomely whitewashed,
and, as at Honoruru, a very picturesque looking fort frowns upon
you as you approach the anchorage. These forts, although they
add greatly to the appearance of the harbors in which they are
situated, yet appear to me to be better calculated for show than,
service, as in case of an attack from the sea, they could not act
efficiently, not being provided with bastions; and in addition to
this, they are built l such a loose and unsubstantial manner,
that the very means of defence would be more fatal than even
the fire of an enemy. A cannonading from the fort, if long
persisted in, would almost certainly level the walls with the
ground.

The houses, composing the village of Lahaina, are, many of them,
so obscured bycocoanut andkou trees, (Cordiasebestena,) that you
cannot see the whole of the town from any single point of view,
even from the offing. On a high hill, two miles back of the town,
stands another village, called Lakainaluna, (or upper Lahaina,)
composed entirely of white stone houses. It is here that the mission-
aries chiefly reside. The high school here is a large building
of stone, thatched with grass, and stands on an elevated piece of
ground, so as to be distinctly seen some miles out at sea. I
called, with Mr. Paty, upon Mr. Andrews, to whom I had a letter

"V

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 277

of introduction from the Rev. Mr. Dieill, and here I met several
other missionaries, Mr. Baldwin, Mr. Rogers, and Mr. Dibble.
These gentlemen are all more or less concerned in the manage-
ment of the high school, but Mr. Andrews is the principal. It
was commenced by him in the year 1831. For some time it
was held under a simple ranai, or shed, made of grass, and
since then it has gone on increasing and improving with a ra-
pidity almost unprecedented. It now consists of about seventy-
►five scholars, chiefly boys, and the improvement of many of them
is surprising. From all that I can learn, (for the school is at
present closed, and I have not had an opportunity of seeing the
pupils,) the advancement manifested by them is fully equal, in
every respect, to those of similar seminaries in our own country.
Attached to this branch of the mission is a printing office, in
which the operatives are natives, under the superintendence of
Mr. Rogers. Mr. Andrews showed us impressions of maps of
different parts of the world, which have been engraved on copper
by the pupils. These efforts are exceedingly creditable, not only
to the boys themselves, but to their tutors, showing the untiring
perseverance with which they must have labored, especially as
none of them had ever before seen the operation performed. Mr.
Andrews is a very indefatigable and most superior man, as his
works abundantly testify. Contending, as he constantly is,
against indisposition, he attends most diligently and faithfully to
the peculiarly arduous duties of the school, and during the very
few hours of relaxation which each day affords, he is busily en-
gaged in writing for the benefit of the mission, and its objects.
He is the author of " A Vocabulary of the Hawaiian Language,"
published at these islands some years since, and he is now em-
ployed on a new and much enlarged edition of the same work.

On the morning of the 17th, we made the island of Hawaii, and,
approaching with a free wind, soon let go our anchor in the bay
of Karakakiia. The land here is composed almost entirely of

278 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

rough and irregular masses of lava, but towards the summit of
the hills, as in Oahu, vegetation is abundant. The shore, for
miles, in both directions, is sprinkled with the little sylvan look-
ing hamlets of this country, and they are sometimes so thickly
grouped together, as to form the most picturesque and beautiful
villages. On the hill fronting the bay is one of these, at which
the missionary, Mr. Forbes, resides, and about eighteen miles
from this, there is a considerable town called Kairua, the resi-
dence of the chief, John Adams, governor of Hawaii. In the
afternoon Mr. Paty and myself went on shore, chiefly for the
purpose of seeing the spot on which Captain Cook was killed, in
the year 1779.

When we made this inquiry after we landed, a number of na-
tives ran to the beach, and pointed out to us the exact spot where
the gallant mariner received his death blow. I need not attempt
to describe, for my sisters can in a measure understand the emo-
tion with which I viewed the rock on which this brave and excel-
lent man offered up his life in the service of his country. I had
read the voyages of Cook, with gi-eat interest, when I was a
child; I had pondered over his dangers, his magnificent dis-
coveries, the intense excitement of his life, and his premature
and violent death, but if at that time any one had told me that I
should ever visit the scene of his discoveries, and stand upon the
identical rock which was pressed by his bleeding bosom, I should
have smiled at it as too chimerical for belief; here I am,
however, although at times I can scarcely reahze the possibility
of it.

The rock is somewhat isolated, and at high tide the water
breaks over its summit. It is said to be at present not one-
fourth its original size, as almost every visiter, for a number
of years, has been in the habit of carrying away a fragment of
it as a relic. A French man-of-war, which was lately here, is
said to have taken off about a ton of it ; and some Spaniards,

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 279

who visited the island several years since, not only took speci-
mens of the rock, but the whole ship's company knelt upon it,
and offered up a prayer for the repose of the hero's soul.

There is perhaps no one unfortunate circumstance connected
with foreigners, that has ever occurred here, which the natives
of these islands so deeply regret, as the death of Cook. They
all speak of it as a lamentable event, and some of the elder of
them are said even to shed tears when the subject is mentioned.
They have canonized him, and he is universally known by the
title of" Olono,^^ a particular deity.

18th. — This morning I met Mr. Forbes, the missionary of this
station, at the lower village, and after delivering to hirn a letter
from Mr. Dieill, accompanied him to his house on the hill, a dis-
tance of three miles. At about one mile from the shore on the
hill is a monument, erected in 1825 by Lord Byron, Captain of
his Britannic majesty's frigate " Blond," to the memory of Captain
Cook. It consists of a simple wall of lava about five feet high,
embracing a square of twenty feet, in the centre of which is a
cedar post, twelve feet in height, and near the top a copper
plate, with this inscription :

" In memory

of

Captain James Cook, R. N.,

Who discovered these Islands,

in the year of our Lord,

1778.

This humble monument is erected

by his fellow countrymen,

in the year of our Lord,

1825."

This post is completely covered with the initials of persons
who have from time to time visited the spot, chiefly the masters.

/

280 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

officers, and crews of vessels, and among them I noticed the
well known name of " Coffin, Nantucket.''^

20th. — Mr. Paty and myself spent the day in traversing the
extensive forests of this island, in search of birds, but with very
little success. The walking was extremely difficult, and some-
times dangerous, in consequence of a thick undergrowth of
bushes, intermixed with large masses of rough, porous lava.
There is here a small species of crow, said to be numerous at
times, but we did not see any, as, in consequence of a long
drought, they, as well as most other birds, have retired back into
the mountains to procure water. We returned to Mr. Forbes'
house late in the afternoon, and found him preparing his baggage,
&c., for a passage to Oahu in our brig. He takes his wife and
two children with him.

22d. — We sailed out of Karakakua last evening with the periodical-
land breeze, and this morning, at 9 o'clock, anchored offKawaihae.
This is a barren and most unattractive looking place, a rambling
sort of village, containing about fifty houses, but no vegetation
except a iew scattered cocoanuts, and an occasional kou, and
tutui tree. The soil is composed entirely of volcanic earth, or
the pulverization of lava and basalt. I observed none of the
handsome taro patches here that form such a relief to the eye
when scanning this rugged country in other places. From our
anchorage we have a view of several of the colossal mountains
and peaks of this island, among which the majestic point of
Mauna kea stands pre-eminent. I have not yet seen Mauna roa,
except from a considerable distance at sea, and I suppose that
now the gratification of a nearer view will not be afforded me.
I cannot too much regret that I have had no opportunity of visit-
ing this celebrated and stupendous volcano.

23d. — Yesterday morning I went on shore with Captain
Hinckley and others, and called upon Mrs. Young, widow of the
late John Young, the oldest foreign resident of the Sandwich

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 281

Islands. He came hither in tl^ year 1789, remaining until his
death, which took place about a year ago, in his 90th year.
Mrs. Young is a sister of old king Tamehameha, and is now
probably sixty years of age, a very pleasant and lady-like old
woman.

In the afternoon we visited a large heiau, or temple, in the
neighborhood. This temple, (which of course has not been used
as such since the abolition of idolatry) was built in the early part
of the reign of Tamehameha ; in it were deposited the gods of
wood and stone, which the natives worshipped, and at regular
periods, a human victim was offered as a sacrifice to their ima-
ginary deity. The victims consisted chiefly of convicts, or those
who had been guilty of some misdemeanor, but whenever the
stock commonly kept on hand, failed, (which not unfrequently
happened,) the authorities rarely scrupled to supply the deficiency,
either by forcing the common people to commit crimes worthy of
the punishment, or by entrapping them into a confession of some
petty transgression.

It was also a common practice to sacrifice a victim on the
death of any of the higher chiefs, to propitiate the favor of the
idol toward the departed. At such times they were even less
scrupulous than ordinary ; a victim must be procured for the re-
pose of the troubled spirit, and it was therefore frequently made
an excuse for the most open and cruel injustice.

The heiau is built of stones laid together, enclosing a square

of about two hundred feet. The walls are thirty feet high, and

about sixteen feet thick at the base, from which they gradually

taper to the top, where they are about four feet across. In the

centre, is a platform of smooth stones, carefully laid together,

but without any previous preparation, raised to within ten feet of

the top o,f the wall. It was on this platform that the victims

were sacrificed, the gods standing around outside in niches made

for their accommodation.

36

282 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

There is, near the heiau, another very similar, though
smaller edifice of stone, called a moral. This was used for
nearly similar purposes, and, in addition, it was the place to
which the bodies of the dead chiefs were carried, previous to in-
terment. After lying here in state for a longer or shorter time,
according to the grade of rank held by the deceased, the flesh
was stripped from the bones, and buried in the sea ; the bones
were then taken and deposited in caves, or subterranean vaults,
which concluded the ceremony. On Oahu, near Diamond hill,
in the district of Waititi, are several of these morals, but they
have gone to decay, and are not so perfect as the above men-
tioned one.

2Ath. — The ship's people have been engaged the whole day
in taking cattle on board, and we are now deep in the water,
having upwards of one hundred and twenty head stowed under
the hatches. These cattle are procured wild, on the island, by
Spaniards, who live here for the purpose. They take them by means
of lassos, and display great dexterity in the business. This ope-
ration has been so often described, that I need not repeat it here,
suffice it to say, that all the bullocks on board have been taken
expressly for us, by three Spaniards, since our arrival here on
Wednesday.

25th. — We were under way at daylight this morning, bound
for Oahu. We passed, in the course of the day, the islands of
Maui, Kaan'dlawi, Ranai, Morokai, and Morokini. The wea-
ther was rough, and the sea high, and as usual, most of our pas-
sengers have been suffering from sea sickness, and at times the
scene on the quarter deck is quite distressing.

Our vessel is now literally stowed full, so much so as to be
somewhat unpleasant for passengers. All forward of the main-
mast, both above and below, is crowded with cattle; the 'tween-
decks are stowed with hides, and the quarter deck with passen-
gers of all colors, from the fair skinned European, to the deep

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 283

copper-colored native, not omitting the intermediate grade of half-
castes. Men, women, and children, of various families, are all
huddled together in a mass, lolling about, talking and smoking
during the day, and sleeping and grunting like swine at night.
The effluvia arising from the mass of native bodies, during a
still, warm evening, is not comparable to otto of roses, and I have
often been compelled to forego the pleasure of a nocturnal lounge
on deck, and dive to the cabin for purer air. This effluvia is
owing to a common habit among these people, and particularly
of the women, of anointing the hair and body with cocoanut oil.
The oil, in a recent state, possesses an aromatic, and rather
agreeable odor, but when allowed to become rancid, it is most
insufferably rank and disgusting. When in this rancid state, its
cosmetic properties are supposed to be improved, and it is then
applied in large quantities to the whole person. Were it not for
this disagreeable and unsavory practice, the women here would
be well calculated to please the taste of a stranger, as many of
them are truly handsome, and remarkably graceful in their
deportment. I believe that most of those who are married to the
foreigners have given up this disgusting practice.

. On the 27th we anchored in the harbor of Oahu, and from
this time, until the 16th of March, I was busily engaged in pack-
ing my multifarious collections, making calls upon my friends,
&c., preparatory to embarking for Valparaiso, via Tahiti, in
the ship Europa, Captain Shaw, of this port.

I have now been here nearly three months ; much longer than
I expected to have been detained. My time has been employed
chiefly in pursuing my scientific avocations, collecting specimens,
&c., in which I have been as successful as I anticipated. In
this pursuit I have received much and very steady assistance
from many of the resident foreigners, and, as a parting word, I
wish them to accept my most unfeigned thanks, both for this and for
the uniform hospitality and kindness with which they have treated

284 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

me. To J. C. Jones, Esq., — the American consul, — my acknow-
ledgements are particularly due. I shall always remember, with
gratitude, the many favors he has conferred upon me.

18th. — We cleared Oahu yesterday, and this evening, are
sailing along delightfully before an eight knot breeze. I think
that of all enjoyments I have ever experienced since I became a
dweller in distant lands, there is none that has ever excited in me
such a thrill of delight and pleasure, as an evening sail upon a
moon-lit sea. I can hang for hours over the gunwale, as the
ship ploughs the deep blue waters ; I gaze upon the lovely moon,
and turn my face towards my father-land, and then, oh then, do
I fancy I can see my quiet, peaceful home, and commune with
the loved objects there ! All, all rise before me with a distinctness
at times almost startling. I see my excellent and affectionate
father, my beloved and tender mother, my dear sisters, brothers,
all whom I love, and I think I can see them beckoning to the
wanderer, and entreating him to turn his footsteps homeward.
These images have risen before me, this evening, with uncom-
mon vividness. It is now eight bells in the middle watch ; the
officer is pacing the quarter deck, muffled in his large pea
jacket, the helmsman stands by the wheel, the drowsy v/atch
are lolling on the forecastle, and all else are asleep. But I can-
not sleep, nor would I if I could, on such a glorious night as
this.

April 1st. — Nothing important has occurred to vary the mo-
notony of a sea voyage. We have generally been favored wth
good breezes, though the sea has been mostly rough. On
Thursday last, we crossed the line, and our latitude is now 3° 52'
south.

8th. — Yesterday morning at 10 o'clock, " land, ho/" was sung
out by a man at the mast head, and we ascertained it to be
Dean's island, distant about fifteen miles. We had a fine seven
knot breeze, and we rapidly approached, and soon passed it

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 285

within five miles. This is a very long, low island, profusely co-
vered with vegetation, very undulating, and with a fine sand
beach surrounding it, upon which the surf breaks furiously. It
is said to be sparsely inhabited by people of a very wild and
unsocial nature. Ships rarely, if ever, touch here, as the island
produces nothing to tempt the cupidity of our mariners. In the
evening we had a heavy squall, with rain, and incessant and
very vivid lightning. We shortened sail immediately, and lay
to, under a double reefed maintopsail and reefed foresail, for
about an hour, when the gale subsided, and a dead calm of about
the same duration succeeded. During the storm, we observed a
little speck of brilliant light, like a star, resting upon the main
trucTc or top of the mainmast. In a few minutes after, a similar
light appeared upon the summits of both the other masts, and
continued visible for about an hour. This is what sailors call a
" complaisant" and is of course occasioned by an excess of elec-
tricity in the atmosphere.

In the afternoon we made Tahiti, (or Otaheite,) and the next
morning approached to within two miles of it, brought our vessel
to, in a fine breeze, and hoisted our signal for a pilot. After
waiting about two hours, a native, who spoke English well, board-
ed us in a whale boat, and announced himself as authorized pilot
of the port. The charge of the vessel was of course given into
his hands, and in another hour we were riding at anchor in a
beautiful, and very safe harbor. Tahiti, like most islands in
these seas, is nearly surrounded by a coral reef, a narrow passage
only being found for entrance, but the native pilot appears to be
skilful, and I am told that no accident has ever happened here.

The outline of this island is exceedingly uneven and rugged,
being formed of high hills and valleys alternately, but the whole
of the land is profusely covered with vegetation. The bay in
which we are anchored, (Papeete,) is one of the most beautiful I
have seen ; the water in the harbor is at all times so smooth and

286 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

placid that no motion whatever can be felt on board a vessel rid-
ing at anchor, and the shore, fringed with cocoanut, bread-fruit,
and banana trees, with the neat white-washed cottages sprinkled
amongst them, forms a view at once striking and lovely. There
are about eight whale ships now in the port, and several of the
masters of these, as well as some resident gentlemen from
the shore, visited us shortly after we came to anchor. Among
the latter were the missionary of this station, the Rev. Mr.
Pritchard, Doctor Vaughan, Mr. William Henry and others.
Soon after, Mr. Skinner, the supercargo, and myself, went on
shore, and called upon Mr. Moerenhaut, the U. S, consul, to
whom I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Jones of Oahu. He
received us kindly, and we spent an hour with him very plea-
santly. We partook of a good dinner at the house of Mr. Henry,
after which Mr. Skinner and several other gentlemen with myself,
took a stroll back of the village. If I was pleased with the appearance
of the harbor from the anchorage, how much more;ivas I dalighted
with the opportunity of rambling in the interior. Soon after we left the
house, we entered upon an excellent turnpike road made by na-
tives, chiefly convicts, and extending nearly the whole circuit of
the island. This, as is almost every part of this lovely isle, is a
complete orchard of the most delicious of the tropical fruits ;
vast groves of oranges, lemons, guavas, &c. &c., growing wild,
and in the most prodigal profusion, patches of pine apples, inter-
minable forests of bananas, cocoanuts, and VVs,* and all with-
out an owner. Well may it be said, this is a highly favored,
and most fruitful land. The natives do not require to cultivate
the earth ; it teems with every luxury that their un?ophisticated
palates crave. For a meal, they have but to enter the forest, and
gather a mess of bread-fruit, bananas, and guavas, and kill
a pig from the large droves which are constantly roaming the
• Tliis is the Spondias diilcits of botanists ; a large and wide spreading forest
tree, bearing a most delicious fruit, somewhat like a pear, and about the same
size.

ACROSS THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 287

country, in a half wild state, and fattening to obesity on the ripe
and luscious fruit which every where strews the ground.

lOth. — I strolled, during the whole of this day, through the
woods, and procured a number of very pretty birds, all new to
me. In this expedition I was accompanied by a stout boy, a
Sandwich Islander, whom I have engaged as my servant while I
remain. This is a convenience, inasmuch as I am not acquainted
with the language of the Tahitians, but am sufficiently familiar
with that of the Sandwich Islanders, to ask for whatever I want,
and understand ordinary conversation. In my ramble through
the forest to-day, I was surprised to hear a stave of the old
familiar song, Jim Crorc, sung by a little puling voice, but
with singular fidelity of tone and time, and after a short search,
I perceived a little naked native girl, of not more than four years
of age, washing her only calico garment in a creek which flowed
by, and amusing herself at her work, by singing " wheel about,
and turn about, and do just so." The child attempted to escape
when she found she was observed, but I caught her, and by dint
of persuasion, and the offer of a rial, induced her to sing several
verses to me.

12th. — I went, with the consul, to the palace of the queen,
Pomare Wahine, (or the woman Pomare.) The house did not
differ, except in being somewhat larger, from the ordinary native
habitations, and her majesty could not have been distinguished,
by her appearance, from the poorest woman in her dominions.
Her complexion is somewhat faii'er than that of the generality,
and the expression of her countenance is pleasing. She was
dressed, like the maids of honor who surrounded her, in a loose
wrapper of calico, but without any kind of ornament about her
person, and her feet were bare. I was informed ' that she dis-
liked all show and ostentation, and that she never donned her
queenly garments except upon occasions of state or high ceremo-
nial. Her husband is a young man of prepossessing appearance,

288 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

who has been selected from the common ranks for his good
looks. He is not burthened with the cares of sovereignty, and if
his wife were to die, would return immediately to the humble
walk from which he has been elevated. He is universally known
by the title of the " queen's husband."

15^/». — This day, although with us, in our ship account, Satur-
day the 15th, is Sunday the 16th, at Tahiti. This is accounted
for by the fact of the early missionaries having made the passage
around the Cape of Good Hope instead of Cape Horn, and
making no allowance for easting, consequently gained nearly a
day in their reckoning. The mistake has never since been
corrected, and at the present time it would perhaps not be advisable
to do so.

I attended, with most of the gentlemen of the place, the native
church, at 9 o'clock in the morning. Mr. Pritchard performed
the service, and I was pleased, not only with the order and re-
gularity of the exercises, but with the strict and decorous deport-
ment of the audience. The hymns were sung with much taste
and skill, and many of the voices, particularly of the females, were
sweet, and well trained.

The chapel is a very neat and pretty piece of workmanship,
somewhat in the style of those at the Sandwich Islands, but more
tasteful and lighter. The roof, instead of a thatch of grass, is neatly
covered with the large leaves of a species of Pandanus, hand-
somely and ingeniously worked on light reeds, and the beams are
wrapped, for about one-fourth of their length, with alternate strips
of fine sinnit and mats of different colors, and adds very much to
the general appearance of the building.

20th. — I observed to-day near the beach, in front of the village,
an old, dilapidated cottage, the trellised sides of which had fallen
to pieces from decay, and I was surprised to hear issue from it a
few notes of a low and plaintive song. Upon entering, I saw a
poor old man lying on a board elevated upon posts about four

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 289

feet from the ground, with no bedding except a small mat, and
his long white hair drooping over a square wooden block, which
was his only pillow. Attached to the rude ceiling, were several
baskets of fruit, oranges, bananas, &c., suspended by cords over
the old creature's head, and within reach of his hand. I dis-
persed the swine which were wallowing beneath him on the floor,
and spoke to the old man. But he heeded me not. His dull
eyes seemed fixed upon the fruit baskets over his head, and soon
the low and melancholy song was renewed, in a voice palsied
and broken from extreme age.

It is an immemorial custom of the Tahitians, so to dispose of
their old and infirm people. When a man becomes too feeble,
from age, to walk, and provide for his own necessities, he is laid
out in this way, and furnished daily with a fresh supply of fruit,
and a calabash of water, to sustain his flickering life, until the
hand of death relieves his relatives from further care.

May 2d. — We are now quite ready for sea, and are only
waiting a breeze to go out. I am as anxious as the rest to re-
embark, for I have completed my ornithological collections,
having prepared about a hundred and ten birds, most of them, I
think, peculiar to this island.

The common dunghill fowl is found wild in the forests here.
Some of the residents think that it is a jungle fowl, peculiar to
the country, but, upon examination, I have not been able to per-
ceive any material difference between it and the domesticated
bird, and therefore incline to the belief that it is the common
species returned to its original habits. In my excursions, I have
killed about a dozen of them. Their plumage is generally more
rich and brilliant than that of the domesticated bird, and there is
not so much variety in the color of different individuals. Their
flesh is exquisite. They are very shy, running away with sin-
gular rapidity, and concealing themselves on the approach of the

37

290 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

sportsman. When flushed, they fly with great vigor and swift-
ness, and where the trees and bushes are not too dense, afford a
very good mark.

Ath. — This morning, the wind being fair, we took the pilot on
board, and at 8 o'clock, stood out. While in the middle of the
passage, the breeze fell very light, and our vessel began to swino-
towards the high and dangerous reef which was just beside us.
For myself, I gave our good ship up for lost, and was waiting to
see her dashed upon the rocks, which I thought was inevitable.
This was evidently the opinion of our captain also. As he
stood upon the rail, looking out ahead, and casting his eyes
anxiously upon the sunken rocks under our quarter, I perceived
his countenance change ; but still he was calm, and gave his
orders, in obedience to the signals of the pilot, with coolness
and precision. At the instant when I fancied, (and I believe cor-
rectly,) that we were in the most imminent peril, a light breeze
struck our sails, which were soon filled, and the ship made some
headway ; then followed a strong puff", and in about five minutes
more, we were past all danger. The captain sprang down
from the rail, ejaculating, " thank God, thank God !" and he
had reason. A fine ship, a valuable cargo, and many lives still
more valuable, in all probability, depended upon that single puff
of wind.

After congratulating ourselves upon our escape, we all turned
anxiously to look at the situation of a whale ship, which at-
tempted the passage a few minutes after us, under the direction
of a deputy appointed by the authorized pilot. While in difficulty
ourselves, we had enough to do to look after our own ship, but
now that it was past, all our sympathy was excited for our fellow
probationer. He appeared to have more wind than ourselves,
and was coming out beautifully, when suddenly, from a cause
to us unknov/n, he sheered towards the reef, and the next mo-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 291

ment, to our consternation and horror, the fine ship struck, hung
by her keel, and leaned over 'till her yards were in the water.
She soon righted again, only to go over upon the other side.
Her sails were still set, and drew well with the wind which came
freshly off the land, but she would not move ahead, and kept roll-
ing and grinding upon the rough coral, showing her clean copper
bottom at every moment. The intense and painful interest which
we took in the situation of our poor neighbor, would not suffer
us to run away and leave him in his extremity, and accordingly,
Captain Shaw, Mr. Skinner, and myself went off to him in our
boat. When we arrived, we found that the whale boats belong-
ing to all the ships in the port, had come out with their com-
manders and crews to render all the assistance they could to
their unfortunate brother. Most of the boats were made fast
to the bowsprit of the ship, and it was attempted to tow her off ;
hawsers were carried out, and kedge anchors, and every other
means resorted to to get her clear, but all to no purpose. The
devoted vessel continued forging higher and higher upon the
reef, and in a few minutes more it was found necessary to cut
away the masts, in order to lighten and right her. I scarcely
ever in my life felt more distressed than when I heard this order
given ; it was, however, necessary that it should be done for the
sake of the cargo. The poor ship seemed like a human creature
in its agony, tossing and groaning as on a bed of pain. A dozen
men with axes in their hands mounted on the weather rail, and
in a minute the shrouds and back-stays were cut away. The
heavy masts reeled and swayed from side to side, for an instant,
and then fell with a crash into the sea. Then indeed

" A wreck complete she roll'd."

One little hour before, she had been a noble and stately ship in
all the majesty of her beauty, and contained within many a

292 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

manly heart burning with the spirit of enterprise, or dwelling
with delight upon the happy home and family which it was then
about to seek. How changed the prospect now ! The beautiful
fabric is in ruins, and those who risked their all within her, are
disheartened and undone. The sight is a melancholy one indeed,
and I cannot but think, too, how nearly this deplorable situation
had been ours.

When the masts went over the side, the ship righted, as if she
felt relieved from a burthen, but in a very short time, the cry
" she has bilged," arose from her decks, and the people were put
to work getting out all the most valuable private articles, and
passing them out of the cabin windows. Here they were received
in boats and taken on shore. Soon after this, we observed, as
the hull rose and fell, the water pouring in and out of her counter,
and very soon she settled upon her side, and lay with one of her
gunwales under water, fast anchored upon the coral reef.
Nothing more could be done for her safety, and all the efforts of
the crew were directed to getting out the cargo of oil. Mean-
while, we who could render no service, concluded to go ashore,
and as we were about pushing off from the wreck, the captain of
the ship requested a passage with us. As we pulled into the
harbor, I wished to say something by way of consolation to the
poor fellow, but I had no language in which to express my
feelings. He is a young man, only twenty seven-years of age,
highly spoken of for his activity, perseverance and honesty. He
has raised himself from the lowest station to a command,
entirely by his good conduct ; this is his first voyage as master,
and so far it had been remarkably successful. After we left the
ship, he seemed more calm, but as we drew near the shore, he
trusted himself with one look towards his former home, and it
was too much for his philosophy, — he threw himself back in the
boat and wept like a child ! I could almost have wept with

ACROSS THE KOOKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 293

him, for I appreciated and respected his feelings. A ship is a
sailor's home, his castle ; he loves her next to his wife and
family, and where is the man with a heart in his bosom, who
can look upon his home in ruins, and not feel it bleed within him
at the sight !

294 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEV

CHAPTER XVIII.

Island of Eimeo — Jnan Fernandez — Make the coast of Chili — The shore —
Town of Valparaiso — suburbs — Indisposition — Kindness of the foreign resi-
dents, ^c. — Preparation by the Chilian government for an expedition
against Peru — Foreign adventurers — Disaffection of Vidaurre and other
officers in the Chilian artny — Murder of Si^nor Portales by the rebels — Pre-
paration for invading the town of Valparaisio — consternation of the inhabi-
tants— A battle — defeat of the insurgents — Capture and imprisonment of
Vidaurre and seven officers — Flovirie, the murderer — Sentence of the court
martial — A military execution — Appearance of the bodies after death —Sail
for the United States — Cape Horn — Pernambuco — Cape Ilenlopen — A gale —
Arnval at Philadelphia.

May 5th. — This afternoon we got under way, and sailed
along the north side of Eimeo, a beautiful island, only twenty
miles from Tahiti, and the next morning, (having had a good
wind during the night,) the loom only of the land was seen
astern.

June 10th. — When I rose this , morning, the island of Juan
Fernandez was in sight, distant about thirty miles. The outline
is very uneven and rugged, being composed of alternate rough
peaks and vallies. We soon approached so near that I distinctly
saw, with the glass, a herd of goats bounding over the rocky
heights. I felt anxious to set my foot on the shore, hallowed by
the romantic narrative of De Foe, but this was impracticable
under the circumstances, and I was compelled to abandon it.
This is the Botany Bay of Chili ; the number of convicts at pre-
sent is about two hundred.

ACROSS THR ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 295

12th. — We have had fine breezes since Saturday, and this
morning, at 8 o'clock, we made the coast of Chili, distant about
fifty miles. The day has been a lovely, clear one, so that we
had a fine view of the land until evening closed. We were then
within about eight miles of Valparaiso point, and as it was
deemed unsafe to attempt to run in during the dusk, we
were compelled to lie to all night. The coast here appears
exceedingly bold, with a very small portion of level beach. In
the back ground, hills rise upon hills to the far distance, where
their summits are crowned by the snow-capt Andes. As the
sun sank this evening, and gilded with his departing rays the
frozen peaks of these lofty mountains, the effect was truly mag-
nificent.

The hills in the vicinity of the shore appear to be totally
devoid of vegetation, nor can the eye discern a single shrub in
the whole of the vast space comprehended within the range of
vision. From our present station, we can see two flag-staffs
erected in different situations, upon the tops of two of the highest
hills, intended, doubtless, as a guide for mariners ; and in one of
the little valleys, we observe a small, but neat looking village of
white houses. The harbor of Valparaiso is deeply embayed
within the hills, so that we have not yet had a sight of it.

13th. — Early this morning we passed the point, and came
immediately in view of the town of Valparaiso. The houses
appeared thickly grouped together, but without any attention to
order or regularity, and between these groups, there often inter-
vened large uninhabited spaces, producing the appearance, from
the harbor, of several towns. Immediately in front of the bay ;
and for the space of a quarter of a mile east and west of it, is
the principal part of the city, the place of commercial business
and fashion. Back and westward of this, are three large groups
of houses, occupying the summits and sides of three hills, com-
monly known to foreigners by the nautical names, fore-top, main-

296 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY

top, and mizen-top. Occasionally, also, a white cottage is seen to
peep out from some little convenient nook among the loftiest hill
behind

About half a mile eastward of this on the low land, is the
Almendral, (almond grove,) so called from a great number of
these trees, which formerly grew there. The houses here are
the same in appearance as the I'est, and the city extends in this
direction for perhaps a mile. Immediately after we dropped our
anchor, the captain of the port came on board for the purpose
of examining the ship's papers. Then followed the custom-
house officers, who also made the requisite investigations, and in
about an hour we were allowed to go on shore. We landed ac-
cordingly on a large mole in front of the custom house, and Mr.
Skinner and myself called upon Mr. Chauncey, of the house of
Alsop & Co., to whom we had letters from Oahu, and by
whom we were politely received. After sitting about an hour,
we strolled out to look at the town. Every thing here is quite
new to me ; the style of building, the manner in which the streets
are laid out, the customs, and even the language of the inhabi-
tants. It is now more than three years since I saw a town
which had any pretensions to civilization, and though so far in-
ferior in every respect to our cities at home, yet from my first
landing, I have enjoyed the opportunity of seeing an approximation
to polite society, generally diffused. I do not mean that I have
seen no polite society since I left home ; far from it, but the little
which I have seen has been so surrounded by baser material,
that here, where civilization predominates, I am more deeply
impressed with the contrast.

August 12th. — Here a considerable hiatus occurs in my jour-
nal, occasioned by a severe fit of illness which confined me for
several weeks to my bed, and from which I did not wholly re-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 297

cover during my residence of two months in Chili. I was so
fortunate as to meet here a gentleman from Philadelphia, Doctor
Thomas S. Page, by whom I was assiduously attended, and to
whose skilful and judicious treatment I consider myself indebted
for my recovery. I also received much kindness from Captain
E. L. Scott and his estimable lady, as well as from a number of
the foreign residents and British naval officers in the port.

The political affairs of the country, and the events to which
certain important and recently adopted measures have given
rise, are worthy a slight notice.

An expedition is about being fitted out by this country against
her sister, Peru. All the men of war belonging to her navy are
to be brought into service, and before many weeks there will be
bloody work on the shores of South America.

The Chilians have a large and efficient navy, commanded
chiefly by foreign adventurers, English and Americans. Peru
has also some officers of the same stamp, and thus brother will
war against brother ; and for what .' For " filthy lucre," and
bloody laurels, worthy to decorate the brow of the first mur-
derer.

'• See from his native liills afar,
The rude Helvetian flies to war: —
Careless for what — for whom he fights ; —
For slaves or despots — ivrongs or rights : —
A conqueror oft — a hero never.'
Yet lavish of his life-blood still.
As if 'twere like his mountain rill.

And gushed for ever '."

The reasons assigned by the Chilians for the necessity of the
contemplated invasion, are manifold. They complain of aggres-
sions and spoliations upon their subjects and commerce, ill treat-
ment of their envoys, &c. ; and some time since, a private citizen

of Callao, upon his own responsibility, and with his own re-

38

298 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

sources, without the advice of his government, visited the island
of Chiloe in an armed vessel, and laid it under a heavy contribu-
tion. The Chilenos considered this a national outrage, and the
fire of jealousy and furious animosity, which had been hitherto
smothered, burst at once into a flame. A formal declaration of
war has been the result, and it appears to be the opinion of the
most calculating and discerning foreigners here, that the Chilian
forces will be worsted in the conflict.

As might have been expected, many of the subjects of Chili,
and some influential ones too, highly disapproved of the projected
enterprise. Among these, were a colonel of the army, and his
brother, the commandante of the Rezguardo, named Vidaurre,
persons of the first respectability in the government, and of con-
siderable influence. These men openly expressed their disappro-
bation of the public proceedings, and in a short time induced
many other officers in the service, as well as a considerable
number of the regular troops, to join in a revolt, for the purpose
of putting an immediate and summary end to an attempt which
they argued could not fail to produce the most calamitous and
fatal consequences. As a commencement of this bold and some-
what Quixotic measure, they sent an invitation to a man high in
office in Valparaiso, named Don Diego Portales, a person of
unbounded influence, and indeed the proposer and prime mover
of the contemplated expedition, requesting him to meet the chief
of the insurgents at Quillota, about five leagues from the town, on
business of importance. Portales, without the slightest suspicion
of foul play being intended, or the faintest idea of the meditated
resistance to the laws, accepted the invitation unhesitatingly, and
repaired to the place appointed, accompanied only by his private
secretary. Here he was met by Colonel Vidaurre alone, who
received him in a friendly manner, and immediately commenced
a conversation relative to the invasion of Peru. The colonel
expressed his sentiments freely on the subject, which of course

ACROSS THE ROCKV MOTINTAINS, ETC. 299

gave great offence to Portales, by whom he was charged with
traitorous and treasonable designs, and who threatened to order
his arrest immediately on his return to Valparaiso. This threat
had been anticipated, and was the preconcerted signal for the
appearance of the troops of Vidaurre, who suddenly rose, like
Clan Alpine's warriors, from the bushes where they had been con-
cealed, surrounded and made prisoner the unfortunate com-
mander-in-chief, stript him in a twinkling of his arms and equip-
ments, loaded his hands and legs with heavy irons, and left him
in sad and melancholy musing as to his probable fate. In a
short time, a small detachment of the insurgents returned, headed
by a young officer named Florine, a man who had made himself
remarkable by several acts of wanton and bloody atrocity.
Portales felt that his hour was come. He knew that he need ex-
|3ect no mercy from the man into whose hands he had fallen.
He disdained therefore to plead for himself, but only requested
that his secretary, (a young man belonging to one of the first
families in Chili,) who was of course perfectly innocent, might be
suffered to depart without molestation. This request the ruffian
said he could not grant, but told them both to prepare instantly
for death, for that they had not five minutes to live.

After both the victims had performed their devotions, which
they did in the most calm and devout manner, a signal was given,
and the whole detachment fired their pieces within a few yards
of the unhappy prisoners. The young secretary was instantly
killed, but Portales himself still stood, being but slightly
wounded in the side ; and it is said that, in this most trying mo-
ment, his admirable courage and self command, did not desert
him.

He stood and looked with a proud, cold eye upon his execu-
tioners. Not a man among them dared to meet that glance, but
every one cast down his eyes in admiration and profound awe.
They stood in the presence of a superior mind, and they cowered

300 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNKV

like abject worms before its influence. Young Florine, however,
was not to be so daunted. Enraged that he whom he chose to
consider his enemy, still survived, he gnashed his teeth and rush-
ed upon his bound and defenceless general with his sword.
Three several times, did he pass his murderous blade clean
through the body of Portales. That calm unwavering eye still
kept its basilisk glance upon the convulsed features of the assas-
sin, until with the third thrust its lustre was quenched in death ;
the poor body which encased the dauntless soul, quivered in the
last agony, and fell a lump of senseless clay upon its parent
earth.

These details were related by an eye witness, one who, although
engaged in the revolt, opposed with manly energy the dastardly
and most atrocious act by which it was commenced.

After the perpetration of this lawless and high-handed deed,
(which it is generally believed even Vidaurre himself did not
sanction, or approve of,) a pacific negotiation with the reigning
powers was of course impossible. All engaged in the insurrec-
tion would be denounced as felons, and any one of them who
should fall into the hands of the authorities would inevitably die
the felon's death ; so there was nothing for it but to strengthen
their army as much and as rapidly as possible, and forthwith
attack the stronghold of the enemies of misrule.

Accordingly the whole army retired to a short distance from
the scene of the murder, leaving the dead bodies on the spot, and
set on foot the most active measures to increase the number of
their forces. In the mean time, the protracted absence of Por-
tales, caused much anxiety among his friends, several of whom
knew of his having gone to Quillota, and on the day following
they repaired thither in all haste, where they found the corpses
as they had been left, and conveyed them immediately to Valpa-
raiso. The cause and manner of Portales' death was at once

ACKOSS THE KOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. HOI

suspected, and naturally induced a supposition that this flagitious
act of private animosity was but the prelude to public hostility,
and therefore the Chilian commander lost no time in getting his
regulars and militia under arms, and in readiness to repel the
suspected invasion. On the day following, intelligence of the
movements, and meditated attack of the rebel army was received
in Valparaiso. All was consternation through the town. Every
horse that could be found was seized upon for the use of the
troops, not excepting private property even ; the merchants sealed
up all their specie in boxes, and sent it on board the men of war
for safe keeping, and stood ready to embark themselves, with
their most valuable effects, in case of the success of the in-
vaders.

The Chilian general selected an eligible spot of ground within
about four miles of the town, concealing his army as well as ho
could, in the quebrados or valleys by which it was bounded, and
waited, with what patience he might, the approach of the enemy.

On the 3d of June, at three o'clock in the morning, Vidaurre
came on, leading his men quietly and stealthily over the uneven
ground, and no doubt thought to take the town by complete sur-
prise, and secure an easy, and, perhaps, bloodless victory over
the amazed regulars. But he was most sadly mistaken. As
his army was silently and warily moving down one of the abrupt
hills, in a perfectly unprepared state, a tremendous and most
destructive fire was suddenly opened upon them from the bushes
upon both sides of the declivity. A large body of men from
one valley rushed to the top of the hill, and completely cut off
their retreat in the direction from which they came ; a detach-
ment from the opposite valley filed off in front, and received them
from the town side, and at the same instant, a number of gun-
boats, which were stationed in the bay, greeted them with a tre-
mendous volley of grape shot and musket balls, which completed

302 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNKY

the panic of the Insurgent army. Once, and once only, did they
' attempt to rally, and in answer to the deadly shower of bullets
which was mowing down their ranks, did they discharge a few
of their muskets at irregular and trembling intervals, but they
were completely routed ; resistance was utterly vain, and the
whole mass fled in the utmost dismay and consternation. Some
few effected their escape, but the greater number were taken pri-
soners, among whom were the colonel himself, the bloody Florine,
and six other officers of distinction, besides about twenty subal-
terns. The number of killed and wounded I have not exactly
ascertained, but I believe it exceeded a hundred.

The news of this victory was of course most agreeable to the
inhabitants of the town, (a great number of whom witnessed the
combat from the heights,) and quiet and security were immedi-
ately restored. When I arrived, (which was only ten days
after,) matters were in the most tranquil state. One day
more had elapsed than is, by common consent, allotted to the
recollection of affairs of an unusual character, and the people
were beginning to talk of it as an event which had left but little
impression upon the memory.

But the poor otficers of the ill-fated army had not forgotten it-
They were languishing on board the Chilian ships of war in the
harbor, laden with heavy irons, such as they had caused to be
placed upon the limbs of the unfortunate Portales ; they were
stowed away in the darkest and most uncomfortable places, and
fed upon a miserable allowance of hard bread and water. Add
to this, that in consequence of the constant, and sometimes severe
motion of the ships in this harbor, they were for weeks dread-
fully sea-sick, without medical advice being allowed them, and
of course utterly deprived of the power of moving about,
and thereby diminishing its pangs, and we can readily believe
that they were wretched enough. I felt a sincere commiseration
for several of the officers whose history I inquired into, and par-

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 303

ticularly for a poor Swede, an almost innocent man, certainly
innocent of any participation in tlio death of Portales ; the same
who related the interesting particulars of the murder.

For Florine, I never felt much pity. He was a miscreant of
the deepest dye ; and when I saw him, a iew days after my arri-
val, brought with others on shore, I observed that tlic people
seemed to contemplate, with savage pleasure, the haggard and
disease-worn lineaments, which physical suffering, and the
gnawing worm at his heart, had rendered hideous and for-
bidding.

A court martial was called immediately upon the capture of
the prisoners, and after a tedious and protracted examination of
some weeks, all the eight officers were sentenced to be publicly
shot. The long, and most unnecessary delay which preceded
the condemnation, was a refinement in cruelty, worthy of the
most barbarous horde that ever existed, and sufficiently proved
the savage origin of the examining judges. But they had to deal
with firm and bold spirits ; — men who had not attempted revolt
without calculating the chances of defeat and capture, and their
minds were therefore strung to meet the ignominious and painful
death which they knew awaited them.

On the 4th of July, the day appointed for the execution, all the
stores of the town were closed ; the streets were thronged with
people of both sexes, and a stranger, suddenly entering the city,
would have supposed that some great national jubilee was about
to take place. At 11 o'clock in the morning, the prisoners
were brought on shore in boats, accompanied by several officers
of the squadron, and a guard of soldiers. In consequence of
the severe illness which most of them had so long suffered, ad-
ded to the cumbrous shackles on their limbs, not one of them had
strength to climb the short flight of steps from the water to the
top of the mole. It was necessary for them to be lifted over this
impediment, and almost carried to the carts which waited for them

304 NAKRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

in front of the custom-house. I saw, by the countenances of the
condemned men, that bodily fear or apprehension had not pro-
duced the iUness under which they were laboring ; it could be
accounted for only by their rigid confinement, unwholesome
living, and constant sea-sickness. They conversed with the
cowled and shaven priests who occupied the carts with them in
a calm, and even cheerful tone.

Poor fellows ! they probably enjoyed the pure air and glorious
canopy of heaven, for which, even though they heralded their
way to an ignominious and violent death, they were glad to ex-
change the gloomy horrors of their prison-house on the sea.

After many delays, which always occur at such times, the
carts moved off, preceded and followed by a file of soldiers. The
streets were crowded with the populace of all ages, sexes, and
conditions, and T, of course, was borne on in the throng towards
the place of execution.

I never felt so oppressed with conflicting emotions in my life.
Pity and commiseration for the wretched beings who were about
to launch out upon the untried ocean of eternity, admiration for
the calm and manly resolution which they had shown in this
most trying hour, anticipation of the sufferings they were to en-
dure in undergoing the dreadful sentence, and a doubt, a strong
and irrepressible doubt of the right of poor fallible mortals to
assume a power over the lives of their fellows, which should be-
long only to the good and righteous Judge of all. Under the in-
fluence of the last conclusion, (for such it had become,) I was
several times on the point of returning to my lodgings, so as not
to sanction by my presence, an act which I could not approve,
but I had left with the intention of seeing the end of the tragedy,
and as my presence or absence would not affect the event, I fol-
lowed with the rest.

In the course of an hour, the carts arrived at the place of exe-
cution, which was a large square, fronting on the sea, at the lower

/

ACROSS THE ROCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 305

extremity of the city proper, and upper portion of the Ahnendral.
Here the prisoners were lifted to the ground, their coats and hats
removed, and thrown in a heap together, and each man placed by
a sort of arm chair which had been previously provided, the legs
of which had been driven firmly into the ground. A large body of
troops, to the number of perhaps six hundred, was then brought
forward, and stationed around the square; the city guards, on
horseback, were arranged within these, and outside the whole
open space was crowded with people, as well as the heights over-
looking the spot.

After a long and painful pause, the culprits were seated in the
chairs, their arms and legs firmly bound to the upright pieces, and
a handkerchief tied around the eyes of each.

From this moment every thing was conducted with the great-
est despatch. A file of twelve men was drawn up within about
five yards of the victims ; the commanding officer waved his
sword over his head — every man clapt his musket to his shoulder
and fired a rattling volley in the very faces of the poor criminals. It
was most wretchedly, most cruelly managed. I had posted
myself on the top of a high fence near, and could see clearly
every thing that occurred. The volley was fired before even the
executioners were prepared ; they had evidently expected more
exact and definite orders, and the saturnine priests were taken
wholly by surprise, as, when the report of the muskets broke the
awful silence, they were whispering ghostly comfort, and
administering extreme unction to the unhappy sufferers. As the
smoke cleared away, the terrified padres were seen scampering
from the area, and mixing in the crowd without. As I antici-
pated, not one of the poor wretches was killed. Some were
grievously wounded, and struggling convulsively in their bonds,
but several seemed to have escaped altogether. Among these
were the colonel and young Florine. The former raised his

hand, and tapped his breast several times as though directing

39

306 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY

them where to fire ; and Florine — the diabolical Florine, smiled in
scorn and derision ! A reserve of twelve men was then brought
forward, and each of them walked up to some one of the victims,
and placing his musket against the head or breast, fired at his
leisure. The first file had by this time reloaded, and they also
marched up, each one of them discharging his piece with the
most perfect coolness and unconcern at those of the dying men
who still struggled, until at last the horrid butchery ceased with
the death of all the culprits. The heads lay flaccid and motion-
less upon the bosoms, and the thongs being cut asunder, the
bodies fell heavily to the ground. The soldiers were then all
marched in single file by the spot that they might look upon the
remains of those who had been traitors to their country, and re-
ceive a fearful lesson from the sight, after which the bodies were
thrown into one of the carts, and conveyed through the streets
towards the place of sepulture. The concourse of people still
followed, and I several times observed, when the cart was forced
to stop for a few minutes by reason of the crowd, that when it
moved on again, a pool of dark, frothy blood was always seen on
the spot over which it had been delayed. It was very horrible,
and I saw more than one man shudder as he looked upon it.

When the cart arrived at one of the small streets in the lower
part of the city, on which the burial ground is situated, the
bodies were lifted out by the arms and feet, and thrown upon the
ground with about as much care and tenderness as the carcasses of
so many dogs ! I felt my blood boil at this, but the Chilian gentle-
men who were present gave no evidence of such feeling. They
had been traitors, and therefore indignity should be added to
indignity, until the earth covered the mutilated remains.

While the bodies were thus lying, previous to interment, I re-
quested of the guard permission to examine them, which being
granted, I stept out from the surrounding crowd, which was kept
back by the soldiery, and contemplated with great interest the

ACROSS THE nOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 307

countenances of the dead. On several of these, the traces of in-
tense and protracted agony were frightfully apparent. The face
of the colonel betrayed no evidence of suffering, and that of
young Florine still wore its Caliban grin of defiance and derision,
I turned away from it to look at the others. The next upon
whom my eye fell was the poor Swede, in whom I had taken so
much interest. He had received several balls through the breast,
his hair was gory, and his lustreless and dead eyes wide open,
but the muscles of the face were not contracted, and I hoped he
had passed away without much suffering; but upon moving to
the other side, my blood curdled, when I perceived that the
whole back of the head had been blown away, exhibiting the
empty, brainless skull. But enough, and too much of all this. I
would not be thought a lover of the horrible.

The bodies were buried on the same day. The head of the
colonel was severed from the trunk, and hung in chains near
where the battle was fought. The head and right arm of Florine
were similarly suspended on the spot where the murder of Por-
tales was committed, and in a few days people ceased to talk, or
even think of the tragical fate of the insurgents.

But there are some who will think of them, who will weep
and lament for them through long years of sorrow. Mothers are
mourning for their children, and " will not be comforted,"
Wives, sons, and daughters are drinking the waters of affliction,
embittered an hundred fold by the violent death of those who
were dear to them ! Vidaurre had a mother, wife, and children ;
the Swede had a wife and mother in his own country ; many
more of them were similarly circumstanced, and even the ruffian
Florine will be wept for by the partial eyes of maternal tender-
ness.

There was another actor in this revolt whom we have lost sight
offer some time. Colonel Vidaurre's younger brother, the com-
mandante of the Rezguardo. Although he was fully engaged in

308 NARKATIVE OF A JOURNEY

the insurrection, and was on the ground at the time of the murder
of Portales, yet he was not in the battle which followed ; and on
his examination, found means to prove, that during the time
when these scenes were transpiring, he was lying dead drunk at
a house in the vicinity. This proof of an alibi cleared him,
and his sentence will probably be commuted to imprisonment or
transportation.

The squadron for Peru will sail in a few weeks, and it is ex-
expected that in a short time an embargo will be placed on all
vessels in the port, which will continue in force for a month or
more.

On the 22d of August, I embarked on board the brig B. Me-
zick, Captain Martin, bound for Philadelphia, and in the evening,
sailed out of the harbor of Valparaiso.

September 1th. — During the past week we have had some
Cape Horn weather — rain, snow, and hail, but happily, no ice.
The sea has been tremendously high, and still continues so, with
the weather excessively cold. We may, however, consider our-
selves peculiarly favored, as not a day has passed, in which
we did not see the sun and ascertain our longitude. Pro-
bably the greatest difficulty and danger of this vicinity is
the constant darkness and gloom which is its usual cha-
racteristic. You are in consequence, unable to ascertain
your true position by observation, and dead reckoning fur-
nishes but an insecure guide when powerful currents are im-
pelling you to leeward, and drifting your vessel towards the
most frightful of all dangers, a rocky lee-coast. We have now
doubled the cape, and are steering N. E., the island of Diego
Ramirez bearing W. 130 miles. We have therefore left the
Pacific, and are now in the South Atlantic ocean.

October 8th. — We are within about two degrees of the tropical
line, and, with good breezes, only about twenty-five days sail
from the capes of Delaware. Oh, who can describe the anxious

ACROSS THK KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 309

longings of him who is approaching his beloved home, after hav-
ing been long separated from it, or depict his feelings, his ardent,
soul-absorbing feelings, in the prospect of soon holding to his
bosom the dear beings who are twined around every fibre of his
heart !

Yesterday we passed the latitude of Pernambuco, and are now
steerins N. VV. along the northern coast of Brazil.

On the 13th of November, we made Cape Henlopen, and took
a pilot on board, at the distance of four miles from land. The
next day we ran in, and anchored within view of the light-house,
during a heavy N. E. gale. In the night we were so unfortunate
as to lose successively both our bower anchors, and were compel-
led to run out to sea again. The day following, however, was clear;
we procured another anchor at the breakwater, and had a fine run
of forty-eight hours to the city. I again trod the shore of my
native land, after an absence of three years and eight months.
I met again the dear relatives and friends, from whom I had
been so long separated, and who had been spared in mercy to
welcome the wanderer to a participation in the inestimable bles-
sings of Home.

APPENDIX.

CATALOGUE OF QUADRUPEDS,

POUND IN THE TERRITORY OF THE OREGON.
0:j' The new species are designated by an * preceding the vulgar name.

American Bison, or Buffalo, Bos americanus.

Moose, Cervus alces.

Wapiti, or Red Deer, (Elk of the hunters,) Cervus canadensis.

Black-tailed Deer, Cervus macrourus.

White-tailed Deer, Cervus leucurus.

Prong-horned Antelope, Antelope fur cifer.

Grizzly Bear, Ursusferox,

Black Bear, Ursus americanus.

White Bear.

Brown Bear.

American Badger, Meles labradoria.

Racoon, Procyon lotor.

Common Wolf, Canus lupus.

Dusky Wolf, Canus nuhilus.?*

Cinereous Wolf, Canus.

Prairie Wolf, Canus latrans.

Red Fox, Canus vulpes.

Grey Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus.

Cross Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus.

Black, or Silver Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus.

* This is probably a new species. It is much larger than mibilmt, as described,
and diftcrs much in its habits.

312

APPENDIX.

Wolverene, or Glutton, Gulo Inscus.

Beaver, Castor fiber.

Musk-rat, or Musquash, Fiber zibethicus.

Sea Otter, Liitra marina.

Land, or River Otter, Li/tra canadensis.

Pine Marten, Mustela martes.

Ermine Weasel, Mustela erminea.

Fisher, Mustela Pennanti.

Mink, Mustela vison.

Mountain Sheep, Ocis montana.

Mountain Goat, Capra americana.

Cougar, or Panther, Felis concolor.*

Hudson's Bay Lynx, Felis hudsonicus.
*Townsend's Hare, Lepus Townsendii, (Bachman.)
*Wormwood Hare, Lepus artemesia, (Bachman.)

Marsh Hare, Lepus palustris, (Bachman.)
*Nuttairs little Hare, Lepus Nuttallii, (Bachman.)

Little Chief Hare, Lagomys princeps, (Richardson.)

Prairie Dog, or Marmot, Arctomys ludovicianus.

Franklin's Marmot, Arctomys Franklinii.

Douglass' Marmot, Arctomys Douglassii.

Richardson's Marmot, Arctomys Richardsonii.
*To\vnsend's Marmot, Spermophilus ToiiviseratZJi, (Bachman.)

Hood's Marmot, Spermophilus tridecemlineatus.
*Small-pouched Marmot, (the opening of the pouches within
the mouth,) not in my collection.

Gopher, or Kamas Rat, Geomys borcalis.

Townsend's Gopher, Geomys Townsendii, [Richard son'' s
M.S.S.)

Jumping Mouse, Meriones labradorius, (Richardson.)

White-footed Mouse, Mus leucopus.

Common Mouse, Mus musculus.

Rocky Mountain Rat, Neotoma Drummondii.
*Tovvnsend's Meadow Mouse, Arvicola Townsendii, (Bach-
man.)
*Small Meadow Mouse, Arvicola oregonii, (Bachman.)

* There is a second species of Panther, of which, unfortunately, I possess only
the skull anil one foot. 1 believe it to be undescribed.

APPENDIX. 313

Douglass' Tree Squirrel, Sciurus Douglassii, (Bennett.)
*Downy Squirrel, Sciurus lanuginosus, (Bachman.)
*Richardson's Squirrel, Sciurus Richardsonii, (Baciiman.)
*Little Ground Squirrel, Tamias minimus, (Bachman.)

Four-lined Squirrel, Tamias quadrivitatus, (Say.)
*Townsend's Ground Squirrel, Tamias Townsendii, (Bach-
man.)

Hudson's Bay Flying Squirrel, Pteromys sabrinus.
*Oregon Flying Squirrel, Pteromys oregonensis, (Bachman.)
*Townsend's Shrew Mole, Scalops Townsendii, (Bachman.)
*CoIutnbia Shrew, Sorex, {undescrihed.)

Thick-tail Star-nose Mole, Condylura macroura.

Long-tail Star-nose, Condylura longicaudata.

Hair Seal, Phoca vitulina.

American Porcupine, Hystrix dorsata.
*Great-eared Bat, Plecotus Townsendii, (Cooper.)

Say's Bat, Vespertilio suhulatus, (Say.)
*?Little Bat, Vespertilio, (imdescrihed.)

Nuttall's Little Hare.

. Lepus *Nuttallii, (Bach.) in Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
Vol. 7, part IL page 345, plate 22, No. 1.

" Characters. — Very small : tail of moderate length ; general
color above, a mixture of light buff and dark brown ; beneath,
light yellowish-gray ; ears broad and rounded ; lower surface of
the tail white." ******

" The fur on the back is for three-fourths of its length from the
roots of a plumbeous color, then light ash, mixed with buff; and
the long interspersed hairs are all tipped with black. The ears are
pretty well clothed internally and externally with hairs of an ash
color, bordered with a line of black anteriorly, and edged with
white. From behind the ears to the back there is a very broad
patch of buff, and the same color, mixed with rufous, prevails on
the outer surface of the legs, extending to the thighs and
shoulders. The soles of the feet are yellowish-brown. The
claws, which are slightly arched, are light brown for three-
fourths of their length, and tipped with white. The under sur-
farce of the tail is white.

40

61

inches

2

((

3

5

u

314 APPENDIX.

Length, from point of nose to insertion of tail,

" of heel, . . . . • .

" of fur on the back,

" of head, 2| «

Height of ear, . . . . . . I2 "

Tail (vertebrse,) . . . . . . I "

" including fur, . . . . . . 1| "

This description is from a single specimen brought by Mr.
Nuttall from beyond the Rocky Mountains. It was captured on
the banks of a small stream which flowed into the Snake or
Shoshone river, where it was not uncommon. We never heard of
it on the Columbia, and presume, therefore, that it does not
inhabit a very extended range. — Towns.

Townsend's Shrew Mole.

Scalops *TowTtsendii, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Natural
Sciences, vol. 8, part I. Scalops canadensis, (Richardson,)
Fauna boreali Americana, p. 9.

" This species first described by Dr. Richardson, was incor-
rectly referred to the common shrew mole of the United States.
Its size and dentition are sufficient evidences of its being a new
and distinct species, which, on account of the number and ar-
rangement of its teeth, will either require the characters of the
genus to be enlarged, or that it be placed under a new subgenus.
A specimen of this quadruped was kindly presented to me, by
Mr. Nuttall, who requested, that in case it should prove a distinct
species, it might be given under the above name. I subsequently
received from Mr. Townsend another specimen, a little larger,
which I presume to be a mere variety, although very singularly
marked.

Description of Mr. NnttalVs specimen.
Length of the head and body, . 7 in. 6 lines.
Length of tail, . . . 1 in. 6 "

Breadth of the fore palm, ... 7 "

Dental formula. Incis. l. False molars i-l- True molars l. 44.

4 12 0

The body is thick and cyhndrical, shaped like the shrew mole
of the United States. The whole upper and under surface is of a
dark color, in most hghts appearing black. The hair, when
blown aside, exhibits a grayish-black color from the roots to near

APPENDIX. 315

the tips. The tail is slightly clothed with short strong bris-
tles.

The specimen brought by Mr. Townsend, is thicker, and
about an inch longer. It has a white stripe about two lines
wide, commencing under the chin, and running in a somewhat
irregular line along the under surface of the body, to within an
inch and a half of the insertion of the tail; there is also a white
streak commencing on the forehead and extending along the
snout." * * ******

Inhabits the Columbia river. — Towns.

Townsend's Meadow Mouse.

Avicola*TownsencUi, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
vol. 8, part I. Hash-sko, of the Chinook Indians.

" Body cylindrical, head rather small, whiskers nearly all
white, intermingled with a few black hairs ; eyes small ; teeth
large, yellow ; ears large, broad, extending a little beyond the
fur ; feet of moderate size, toes like the rest of this genus; thumb
protected by a rather short, acute nail ; fur on the back, about
three lines long, much shorter beneath. Tail scaly, sparingly
covered with soft brown hair, a few white hairs at its extremity; feet
clothed to the nails with short, brown, adpressed hairs; claws brown;
fur above lead color from the roots to near the tips, which are
dark brown ; beneath cinereous.

Length of head and body, 6 inches, 0 lines

Length of tail, 2 " 6 "

Fore feet to point of nails, 9 "

From heel to point of nail, 1 " 0 "

Breadth of ear, 5 " "
Inhabits the Columbia river. — Towns.

Oregon Meadow Mouse.

Arvicola Oregoni, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol.
8, part I.

" This diminutive species is another of the discoveries of Mr.
Townsend.

Head of moderate size, body slender, eyes very small for this
genus ; ears nearly naked, concealed by the fur ; feet small ;
whiskers the length of the head, white and black, the latter pre-

316 APPENDIX.

dominating ; color above, a shade lighter than that of the former
species, inclining a little to hoary brown ; ash-colored beneath ;
a very minute blunt thumb nail on the fore foot.
Length of the head and body, . 3 inches,
Length of tail . . . 1 " 2 lines."

Inhabits the Columbia river. — Towns.

Townsend's Marbiot.

Spermophilus *Townsendii, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat.
Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Tet no, of the Walla-walla, and Nez
Perces Indians.

" The body is long and rather slender. Head of moderate
size ; nose slightly obtuse. Ears short, scarcely a line in height ;
nails slender, compressed, and slightly arched ; the thumb pro-
tected by an acute and prominent nail ; the second claw in the
fore foot, as in all the species of this genus, is longest, and not the
third, as in the squirrels. Cheek-pouches not large. Tail thickly
clothed with fur, and in the dried specimen appears much flatten-
ed ; the fur is soft, smooth, and lustrous.

There is a line of white above and below the eye-brows. The
fur on the whole of the upper surface is for one-fourth of its
length from the roots of a nearly black color, then a broad line
of silver gray, then a narrow line of dark brown, edged with yel-
lowish-white, with a few black hairs interspersed, giving it a
brownish-gray appearance. On the under surface, where the
hair is a little longer than on the back, it is black at the roots,
and cinereous at the points ; on the forehead and nose, it is
slightly tinged with brown. The line of separation between the
colors of the upper and under surface, exists liigh up along the
sides, and is very distinctly drawn. The tail on the upper sur-
face is the color of the back, slightly tinged with brown beneath;
the teeth are white.

Length of the head and body, 8 inches 9 lines,

head, 1 " 10 "

" tail, (vertebrEe,) 1 "

" " including fur, 1 " 6 "

Length from heel to middle hind claw, 1 " 4 " "

I procured a single specimen of this animal on the Columbia
river, about three hundred miles above its mouth, in July. It

APPENDIX. 317

was said to be common there at that season, but as I was travel-
ing in boats to the interior, had but little time to search for it.
I know but little of its habits. It becomes excessively fat, and is
eaten by the Indians. Disappears in August, and emerges in the
spring in a very attenuated state. — Towns, in lit.

Douglass' Squirrel.

Sciurus Douglassii, (Bennett.) Sciurus Townsendii, (Bach-
man.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Ap-poe-
poe, of the Chinook Indians.

"This species, in the form of its body, is not very unlike the
Sciurus hndsonicus ; its ears and tail, however, are proportion-
ably much shorter ; it is about a fourth larger, and in its mark-
ings differs widely from all other known species.

Head considerably broader than that of the Sciurus hudsonicus;
nose less elongated and blunter, body long and slender ; ears
rather small, nearly rounded, slightly tufted posteriorly. As
usual in this genus, the third inner toe is the longest, and not the
second, as in the Spermophile.

Color. — The whiskers, which are the length of the head, are
black. The fur, which is soft and lustrous, is, on the back from
the roots to near the points, plumbeous, tipped with brownish-
gray, with a few lighter colored hairs interspersed, giving it a
dark brown appearance ; when closely examined, it has the ap-
pearance of being thickly sprinkled with minute points of rust
color on a black ground. The tail, which is distichous, but not
broad, is, for three-fourths of an inch, of the color of the back ; in
the middle, the fur is plumbeous at the roots, then irregular
markings of brown and black, tipped with soiled white, giving it
a hoary appearance ; on the extremity of the tail, the hairs are
black from the roots, tipped with light brown. The inner sides
of the extremities, and the outer surface of the feet, together with
the throat and mouth, and a line above and under the eye, are
bright buff. The colors on the upper and under parts are sepa-
rated by a line of black, commencing at the shoulders, and run-
ning along the flanks to the thighs. It is widest in the middle,
about three lines, and tapers off to a point. The hairs which
project beyond the outer margins of the ears, and forming a
slight tuft, are dark brown, and, in some specimens, black.

4

((

6

6

((

4
6

1

((

11

318 APPENDIX.

Length from point of nose to insertion of tail, 8 inches 4 lines.

" of tail, (vertebrae,)

" " including fur,

Height of ear posteriorly,
Sole and middle hind claw, . . . 1 " 11 " "

This squirrel is common on the Columbia in pine forests.
Feeds chiefly upon the seeds of the pine, and lays up a large
quantity of them for winter store, in the hollows of decayed
limbs.

It is very unsuspicious and tame ; more so than Sciurus Jiud-
sonicus. Voice remarkably loud and harsh ; may be heard
several hundred yards. It is in the habit of nipping off small
branches from the summits of the trees, and throwing them
down, apparently in sport. I have seen at one time at least a
dozen of them engaged in this way, within a short distance.
The twigs were falling in every direction, and the loud call was
not suspended for a moment. The nest is made of sticks and
hair, usually in the hollow of a decayed branch, rarely in the
bifurcation of limbs. Has four young at a birth, which remain
longer in the nest than the common gray squirrel.

I have frequently seen this species tamed, and in the pos-
session of the Indian boys. They were very lively and playful. —
Towns, in lit.

Columbia Pine Squirrel.
Sciurus *Richardsonii, (Bachman,) Journal Acad. Nat.
Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Small brown squirrel, Leicis and
Clarke, Vol. 3, p. 37. Sciurus hudsonicus, var. (^Columbia Pine
Squirrel, Richardson.)

" This small species was first noticed by Lewis and Clarke,
who deposited a specimen in the Philadelphia Museum, where it still
exists. I have compared it with a specimen brought by Mr.
Townsend, and find them identical. Richardson, who appears
not to have seen it, supposes it to be a mere variety of the
Sciurus hudsonicus. On the contrary, Mr. Townsend says in
in his notes, ' It is evidently a distinct species ; its habits are
very different from those of the Sciurus hudsonicus. It frequents
the pine trees in the high range of the Rocky Mountains, west of

APPENDIX. 319

the great chain, feeding upon the seeds contained in tlie cones.
These seeds are large and white, and contain a good deal of
nutriment. The Indians eat a great quantity of them, and esteem
them good. The note of this squirrel is a loud jarring chatter,
very different from the voice of the Sciuriis hudsonicus. It is not at
all shy, frequently coming down to the foot of the tree to recon-
noitre the passenger, and scolding at him vociferously. It is, I think,
a scarce species.'

The difference between these two species can be detected at a
glance by comparing the specimens. The present, in addition to
its being about a fourth smaller, the size of the Tamias lysteri,
has less of the reddish-brown on the upper surface, and may be
always disinguished from the other by the blackness of its tail at
the extremity.

The body of this most diminutive of all the known species of
genuine squirrel in North America, is short, and does not present
that appearance of lightness and agility which distinguishes the
Sciurus hudsonicus. Head large, less elongated, and nose
a little blunter than Sciurus hudsonicus ; ears short ; feet of
moderate size, the third toe on the fore foot but slightly longer than
the second. The claws are compressed, hooked and acute ; tail
shorter than the body ; the thumb nail is bi'oad, flat and blunt.

The fur on the back is dark plumbeous from the roots, tipped
with rusty brown and black, giving it a rusty gray appearance.
It is less rufous than the Sciurus hudsonicus, and lighter colored
than the S. Douglassii. The feet, on their upper surface, are
rufous ; on the shoulders, forehead, ears, and along the thighs,
there is a slight tinge of the same color. The whiskers, which
are a little longer than the head, are black, the teeth yellowish-
white. The whole of the under surface, as well as a line around
the eyes, and a small patch above the nostrils, smoke gray. The
tail for about one-half its length, presents on the upper surface a dark
rufous appearance ; many of the hairs being nearly black, pointed
with light rufous. At the extremity of the tail, for about one inch
in length, the hairs are black, a few of them slightly tipped with
rufous. The hind feet, from the heels to the palms, are thickly
clothed with short adpressed light colored hairs ; the palms are
naked. Thesides are marked by a line of black commencing at the

320 APPENDIX.

shoulder, and terminating abruptly on the flanks ; it is about two

inches in length, and four lines wide.

Length of head and body, 6 inches 2 lines.
" tail (vertebra?,) 3 " 6 "

" " including fur, 5 "
" ears posteriorly, 3 "

" " including fur, 5 "

" sole and middle hind claw, 9 " "

Downy Squirrel.

Scivrus lanuginosvs, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
vol. 8, part I.

" A singular and beautiful little quadruped, to which I have
conceived the above name appropriate, was sent to me with the
collection of Mr. Townsend.

The head is broader than the S. hudsonicus, and the forehead
much arched ; the ears short and oval ; whiskers longer than
the head ; feet and toes short, thumb armed with a broad, flat
nail ; nails slender, compressed, and acute ; the third on the fore
feet is the longest, as in the squirrels. The tail, which bears
some resemblance to that of the flying squirrel, is composed of
hairs a little coarser than those of the back, and much shorter
than the body. On the fore feet the palms are nearly naked;
the under surface of the toes being only partially covered with
hair, but on the hind feet, the under surface, from the heel even
to the extremity of the nails is thickly clothed with short soft hairs.

The fur is softer and more downy than that of any other of
our species, and the whole covering of the animal indicates it
to be a native of a cold region.

The teeth are dark orange ; whiskers brown ; the fur oh the
back, from the roots to near the extremities, light plumbeous,
tipped with light chestnut-brown ; on the sides with silver gray ;
there is a broad band of white around the eyes ; a spot of white
on the hind part of the head, a little in advance of the anterior
portion of the ears. The nose is white, which color extends
along the forehead till above the eyes, where it is gradually
blended with the colors on the back. The whole of the under
surface, including the feet and the inner surface of the legs, pure

APPENDIX.

321

9

7

0

5

6

(( "

white. In the tail, the colors are irregularly blended with mark-
ings of black, light brown, and white, scarcely two hairs being
uniform in color. In general, it may be said that the tail, when
examined without reference to individual hairs, is light ash at the
roots of the hair, then a broad, but not well defined, line of
light rufous, then dark brown, and tipped with rufous and smoke

gray-
Length of head and body, . . 7 inches 11 Imes.
" tail, (vertebrae, ) . . 4 " 8 "

" " including fur, . . 6 "

" palm and middle fore claw, 1 "

" sole and middle hind claw, 1 "

" fur on the back,

" at the tip of the tail, . 1 "

Height of ear, measured posteriorly.
Distance between the orbits, .
Of the habits, &c., of this animal, I know nothing. It was
presented to me by William Fraser Tolmie, Esq., surgeon of the
Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, by whom it was captured
near Fort McLoughlin, on the N. W. coast of America. — Towns.

Toavnsend's Ground SauiRREL.

Tamias *Townsendii, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci-
ences, Vol. 8, part I. Qidss-Qitiss of the Chinook Indians.

" This species bears some resemblance to our common ground
squirrel of the middle and northern states, {S. lysteri,) it differs
from it, however, in its larger size, longer tail, and several other
striking particulars.

The body is stouter than that of the former species, the head
broader, the nose more obtuse, and the tail nearly double the
length. In the arrangement of the teeth and toes, this species
does not differ widely from the Sciurus (Tamias) lysteri, except
that they are much more robust. The teeth are dark orange ;
whiskers, which are a little shorter than the head, black ; a line
of fawn color, commencing at the nostrils, runs over the eye-
brows, and terminates a little beyond them in a point of lighter
color ; a patch of similar commences under the eyelids, and run-
ning alona; the cheeks, terminates at the ear. There is a line of

41

322 APPENDIX.

dark brown, commencing at the termination of the nose, where
it forms a point, and bordering the fawn color above, is gradually
blended with the lighter colors of the head. The ears, which
are of moderate size, and ovate, are on the upper margins of the
inner surface partially clothed with a few short, brown hairs ;
the outer surface is thickly clothed with fur, brown on the ante-
rior parts, with a patch of white covering about one-fourth of the
ear on the posterior portion. Behind the ear there is a slight
marking of cinereous, of about six lines in length, terminating near
the shoulder. A line of black commences on the hind part of
the head, runs over the centre of the back, where it spreads out
to the width of four lines, and terminates in a point at the inser-
tion of the tail ; a line of similar color commences at the shoul-
ders, and running parallel, terminates a little beyond the hips;
another, but narrower and shorter line of the same color, runs
parallel with this, low down on the sides, giving it five black
stripes. The head and back are light yellowish-brown, present-
ing on the upper surface a dusky ochre color. It has not the
whitish stripes on the sides, nor the rufous color on the hips,
which are so conspicuous in the Sciurus (Tamias) lysteri. On
the throat, belly, and inner parts of the legs and thighs, the color
is light cinereous ; there is no line of separation between the co-
lors of the back and belly. The tail, which is not bushy, is on
the upper surface grayish-black, having a hoary appearance.
Underneath it is reddish brown, for two-thirds of its breadth, then
a narrow line of black, tipped with light ash. The nails are
brown.

Length of the head and body, . . 6 inches 9 lines.

" Tail, (vertebrae,) . . . 4 "

Length of tail, including fur . . . 5 "

" head, 2 "

Height of ear, ..... 6 "

Length of heel to middle claw of hind foot, 1 " 6 " "

This pretty little animal, so much resembling our common
striatus, is quite common on the Columbia river. It lives in
holes in the ground, and is so tame, that it not unfrequently runs
over your feet as you traverse the forests. It frequently perches
itself upon a log or stump, and keeps up a continual clucking,

3

4

2
2-1

1

(C

3

APPENDIX. 323

which is usually answered by another at some distance, for a
considerable time. Their note so much resembles that of the
dusky grouse, (Tetrao ohscurus,) that I have more than once
been deceived by it. — Towns, in lit.

' Least Ground Squirrel.

Tamias *minimus, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
Vol. 8, part I.

" This diminutive and beautiful species of Tamias, not half the
size of the common ground squirrel, is another of the discoveries
of Mr. Townsend.

Length of head and body, . . . 3 inches, 9 lines.

" tail, (vertebrse,)

" " to the end of fur.
Height of ear, posteriorly.
Length of head, . . . . 1 " 3 *<

" heel to end of middle claw, 1 "

The head is rather small ; the nose very sharp pointed ; claws
moderately curved, compressed, acute, and dark brown. There
is, as in all the species of this genus, a minute blunt nail on the
thumb. The feet and legs rather long in proportion to the size
of the animal.

The fur is soft to the touch, fine and silky. The teeth, which
are not robust, are yellow ; a white streak runs from above and
behind the eye to the nostrils, giving the nose a sharp and point-
ed appearance. This white lino is marked on the upper surface
with an edge of brown ; a minute line of rufous runs from the
nose through the eye, terminating at the ear, another commencing
under the eye, and running parallel with the last, terminates on
the neck ; a line of black commencing on the forehead, extends
over the back and terminates at the tail ; this is succeeded on
each side by a broad line of whitish-ash, then by a narrower line of
brown, commencing back of the neck and running parallel
with the rest, till it is narrowed to a point on the hips ; this is
succeeded by a line of pure white on each side, similar to the
last, and finally, by a broader and shorter stripe of brown, giving
it on the back one stripe of black, two of light ash, and four of
light brown. The head is cinereous ; the ears have a white spot

324 APPENDIX.

on their posterior surface, similar to tlie last species, and also to
another described by Say, as the Sciurus quadrimtatus, with
which I have compared it. The neck and whole of the under
surface, including the legs and thighs, are white. The tail,
which is quite narrow, is dark brown above, edged with light
rufous. Beneath, it is rufous near the roots, then a line of black
edged with light rufous ; from the end of the vertebra; to the
extremity, the hairs are black, a few of them are tipped with light
rufous."

This species is found very plentiful along the banks of the Rio
Colorado, but I think does not inhabit a very extensive range, as
I never saw it after leaving this river. It keeps almost constantly
among heaps of stones, on the tops of which it often perches,
extending its long tail over its back, and curving it down in front
of its head. At such times it emits a lively, garrulous note like
the squeaking of a young puppy ; but if approached, darts off with
astonishing swiftness, carrying the tail level with the ground, and
almost eluding the eye by the activity of its motions, and con-
ceals itself under some jutting rock or in the interstices of a stone
heap until the intruder has passed. — Towns, in lit.

Townsend's Geeat-eared Bat.

Plecotus*Tow7isendii, (Cooper,) Annals of the Lyceum of
' Nat. History of N. York, Vol. 4, p. 73. [Plate 3, fig. 6, the
head.] So-capual of the Chinook Indians.

" Fur on the back dusky at base, brown at the tips, with a
ferruginous cast, the two tints appearing nearly uniform. The
ears are fringed with fur. Beneath, the fur is of a reddish
cinereous or ochreous hue, lighter towards the tail, but not in the
least whitish. The nose is similar to the P. Lccontii, but the
fleshy crests between the eyes and nostrils appear to be still
larger, and in the preserved specimens are much more con-
spicuous. The ears are similar, though every way more ample
in the present, and presenting a ditferent outline immediately
after rising from the forehead ; the auricle broader and larger.
The wing and tail membranes are entirely naked, dusky, of a
thicker texture, and much more strongly reticulated than in the
first species.

APPENDIX. 325

Incisors |, canines ^Ei? iifiolars ^= 36.

Total leno-th, . . .3.8 inches.

Ears, . . . . 1.1 "

Tail, . . . . 1.7 "

Fore arm, . . . 1.8 "

Tibia, . . . . 0.8 "

Spread, . . . 11.0 "

Three specimens of this very distinct new species were brought
from the Columbia river by Mr. John K. Townsend, where he
procured them on his late journey. It is very like the P. Le-
contii, but they may be readily known by the color of the under
part of the body, besides which they differ in almost all their
details of color and proportions, the present being a larger and
more robust animal. Together, they seem to form a small group
in the genus, characterized by the double fleshy crest of the
nose, which is not mentioned as occurring in any other species.

Verpertilio megalotis, (Rat.) Plecotis Rafinesquii, (Lesson,)
which is described as having the auricle as long as the ears, can-
not be either of our species. I am not acquainted with any
other species within the United States."

Inhabits the Columbia river district, rather common. Fre-
quents the store houses attached to the forts, seldom emerging
from them even at night. This, and a species of Verpertilio,
(V. subulatus,) which is even more numerous, are protected by
the gentlemen of the Hudsfm's Bay Company, for their services
in destroying the dermestes which abound in their fur establish-
ments.— Towns.

Townsend's Hare.

Lepus *Townsendii, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci-
ences. Vol. 8, part I., figure. Poolalik of the Walla-walla
and Nez Perces Indians.

" This species, which is another of the discoveries of Mr.
Townsend, and of which no specimen exists in any museum that
I have had an opportunity of examining, is one of the most sin-
gular hares that has fallen under my notice.

Characters. — Size of the northern hare, (L. amcricanus.)
Ears, tail, legs, and tarsi, very long. Color above, light gray ;

326

APPENDIX.

beneath, white. Crown of the head, cheeks, neck, and wliole
upper parts — the front of the ears and legs, externally — gray,
with a faint cream-colored wash. Hairs whitish, or silver-gray
at base, then brownish-white, then black, with a faint cream
tinge, and ultimately tipped with black ; interspersed with long,
silky hairs, some of which are wholly black. Chin, throat, whole
under surface, interior of legs, the whole of the tail, (with the
exception of a narrow, dark line on the top,) pure white to the
roots. Irides light hazel ; around the eyes white. The tips of
the back parts of the ears black ; the external two-thirds of the
hinder part of the ears white, running down the back part of the
neck, and there mingling with the color of the upper surface ; the
interior third of the outer portion of the ear, the same gray color
as the back, fringed on the edge with long hairs, which are red-
dish-fawn at the roots, and white at the tips. The interior of
the ear is very thinly scattered with beautiful, fine white hairs,
being moi'e thickly clothed towards the edge, where it is grizzled
black and yellowish, but the edge itself is fringed with pure
white, becoming yellowish towards the tip, and at the tip is black.
Whiskers nearly as long as the head, for the most part white,
black at the roots ; a few hairs are pure white, others wholly
black.

Dimensions.
From nose to insertion of tail, . . 21 inches 0 lines.

" tail to end of hair,

" " (vertebrffi,) about
Ears measured posteriorly, .
Length of head measured over the forehead, 4

" from eye to nose,

" from heel to longest nail, . . 5 " 6 ''

The specimen fi-om which the above description and drawing
were taken, was a female, procured by Mr. Townsend on the
Walla-walla, one of the sources of the Columbia river."

This species is common on the Rocky Mountains. I made
particular inq,uiries, both of the Indians and British traders, re-
garding the changes it undergoes at different seasons, and they
all assured me that it never was lighter colored. We first saw it
on the plains of Blackfoot river, west of the mountains, and

5

6

3

3

4

9

4

6

2

0

5

6

APPENDIX. 327

observed it in all similar situations during our route to the Co-
lumbia. When first seen, which was in July, it was lean and
unsavory, having, like our common species, the larva of an in-
sect imbedded in its neck, but when we arrived at Walla-walla,
in September, we found the Indians, and the persons attached to
the fort, using them as a common article of food. Immediately
after we arrived we were regaled with a dish of hares, and I
thought I had never eaten anything more delicious. They are
found here in great numbers on the plains covered with worm-
wood, (Artemesia,) under the close branches of which they often
squat when pursued. I will not be qualified that this animal
"can leap twenty-one feet at a bound," but it is so exceedingly
fleet, that no ordinary dog can catch it. I have frequently sur-
prised it in its form, and shot it as it leapt away, but I found it
necessary to be very expeditious, and to pull trigger at a par-
ticular instant, or the game was off amongst the wormwood, and
I never saw it again.

The Indians kill them with arrows, by approaching them
stealthily as they lie concealed under the bushes, and in winter
take them with nets. To do this, some one or two hundred
Indians, men, women, and children, collect and enclose a large
space with a slight net, about five feet wide, made of hemp ; the
net is kept in a vertical position by pointed sticks attached to it,
and driven into the ground. These sticks are placed about five
or six feet apart, and at each one an Indian is stationed with a
short club in his hand. Afler these arrangements are completed,
a large number of Indians enter the circle, and beat the bushes
in every direction. The frightened hares dart off towards the
nets, and, in attempting to pass, are knocked on the head and
secured.

Mr. Pambrun, the superintendent of Fort Walla-walla, from
whom I obtained this account, says that he has often participated
in this sport with the Indians, and has known several hundred to
be thus taken in a day. When captured alive, it does not scream
like the common gray rabbit, (Lepvs sylvaticiis.)

This species inhabits the plains exclusively, and seems par-
ticularly fond of the vicinity of the aromatic wormwood. Imme-
diately as you leave these bushes, in journeying towards the sea,
you lose sight of the hare. — Towns, in lit. to Dr. Bachman.

328 appendix.

Wormwood Hare.
Lepus *artemesia, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
vol. 8, part I. I-iks, of the Walla-walla, and Nez Perces In-
dians.

" Characters. — Small ; of a gray color, with pale rusty on
the back of the neck and legs. Tail above, the color of the body;
beneath white. Under parts of the neck, and lower surface of
the body white, all the fur being gray at the base. Ears as long
as the head ; tarsus well clothed.

Description. — The head is much arched — upper incisors
deeply grooved. The color of this species is grizzled black, and
brownish-white above. The fur is soft, pale gray at the base,
shaded into brownish externally, annulated with brownish-white
near the apex, and black at the tips. Under parts, and inner
sides of limbs, white, the hairs pale gray at the base. Neck, with
the hairs on the sides and under parts, gray, tipped with brown-
ish-white, having a faint yellow hue. Chin and throat grayish-
white, the hairs being gray at the base, and white at their tips.
The whole back of the neck, and limbs exteriorly, of a pale,
rusty fawn color ; those on the neck uniform to the base. Feet
beneath, a very pale, soiled yellow- brown. Tail, colored above
as the back, with an admixture of grayish-black hairs ; beneath
white. Ears externally on the anterior part, colored as the
crown of the head, posteriorly ashy-white ; — at the apex mar-
gined with black ; internally nearly naked, excepting on the
posterior part, where they are grizzled with grayish-black and
white ,• in the apical portion, they are chiefly white.

Dimensions.
Length from nose to root of tail.
From heel to point of longest nail, .
Height of ear externally.
From ear to point of nose,
Tail, (vertebra?,) about.
Do. to end of fur.

This small hare, inhabits the wormwood plains near the
banks of the streams in the neighborhood of Fort Walla-walla. I
cannot define its range with any degree of certainty, but I have

2

inches 0

lines

3

a

2

li.

2

a

8

11

2

11

7

((

1

<<

1

((

1

((

9

u '

APPENDIX. 329

reason to believe that it is very contracted, never having met
with it many miles from this locality. It is here abundant, but
very shy and retired, keeping constantly in the densest worm-
wood bushes, and leaping, with singular speed, from one to
another, when pursued. I have never seen it dart away, and
run to a great distance like other hares. I found it very difficult
to shoot this animal for the reasons stated. I had been residing
at Fort Walla-walla for several weeks, and had procured only
two, when, at the suggestion of Mr. Pambrun, I collected a party
of a dozen Indians armed with bows and arrows, and sallied
forth. We hunted through the wormwood, within about a mile
of the fort, and in a few hours I'eturned, bringing eleven hares.
The keen eyes of the Indians discovered the little creatures
squatting under the bushes, when, to a white man, they would
have been totally invisible. This hare when wounded and taken,
screams like our common species. — Towns, in lit. to Dr.
Bachman.

Oregon Flying Squirrel.

Pteromys *Oregunensis, (Bachman,) Journal Acad. Nat.
Sciences, Vol. 8 part, I.

"Characters. — Intermediate in size, between P.volucella, and
the northern P. sabrinvs ; ears longer than the latter species ;
fur more compact; the lobe of the flying membrane joining the fore
foot, much longer in proportion, making that membrane broader ;
foot larger ; general color above brown ; beneath yellowish-
white.

Description. — All the fur of this species is deep gray at the
base; that of the back tipped with yellowish-brown; tail, pale
brown above, dusky towards the extremity ; beneath, brownish-
white. Whiskers numerous, and very long, chiefly of a black
color, and grayish at the tips. Hairs covering the flying mem-
brane chiefly black, most of them slightly tipped with pale
brown ; feet dusky ; around the eyes blackish ; ears with mi-
nute, adpressed brown hairs externally, and brownish-white
internally.

This species differs much from P. sabrinns in several very

striking particulars. Although a smaller animal, the bone of the

wrist, which supports the flying membrane, is eleven and a half

42

330 APPENDIX.

lines in length, whilst that of the former is only nine ; thus the
smallest animal has the largest flying membrane. The fur of
P. sabrimis is much the longest. The fur on the belly of the
latter is white, whilst that of oregonensis has an ochreous tinge.
The hairs on the tail of P. sabrimis are only slightly tinged with
lead color at the roots, whilst in oregonensis it extends to half
the length of the hairs. The greater length and less breadth,
however, of the ear of the latter, is a sufficient mark of distinc-
tion.

From our little Pteromys volucella, the difference is so great,
that it is unnecessary to institute a particular comparison. Be-
sides being much larger than our little species, and not possess-
ing the beautiful downy-white on the belly, the two spe-
cies may be instantly detected, in the volucella having its hairs
white to the roots, which is not the case in the other species.

Dimensions.
Length from point of nose to root of tail,

" tail to point of fur,
Height of ear posteriorly,
Breadth between the outer edges of the flying

membrane, .....

Longest hind toe, including nail, .
Longest fore toe, including nail.
From heel to point of nail,

" nose to ear, .....

This species inhabits the pine woods of the Cohu-nbia, near
the sea ; very rare. Habits of the P. volucella. — Towns, in lit.

Townsend's Gopuer.

Geomys *Tovmsendii, {Ricliardsoii' s manuscripts,) Journal
Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, Part I.

General color very pale gray above, with a faint yellowish
wash ; muzzle dusky-gray ; under parts grayish-white ; chin
pure white. Tail and feet white ; the former grayish above. Hairs
of the back very pale gray at the base, pale yellow at the apex,
the extreme tip cinereous. Teeth yellowish-white. Upper inci-
sors with a faint groove near the internal margin. Claws and
fore feet moderate, white.

6 inches

, 8 lines-

6 "

0 "

•

7 »

8 "

0 "

•

H "

•

H "

1 "

6i "

1 "

6 ""

APPENDIX. 331

Dimensions.

7 inches, 6 lines.
2 " 9 "

1 " 3i "

5 "

1 " 5 "

From nose to tail,

X d.ll, • • • •

Tarsus, ....

Central claw of fore foot,

From nose to ear.
The specimen was procured by Mr. Townsend on the Colum-
bia river.

I am obliged to confess that I should not have ventured to pub-
lish this species as distinct from G. borealis, on my own respon-
sibility. The discriminating eye of Dr. Richardson, however,
who has studied this genus more carefully than I have had an
opportunity of doing, may have detected marks of difference
which I have not been able to discover. — Bach.

CATALOGUE OF BIRDS,

POUND IN THE TERRITORY OF THE OP.EGON.

(Xj' The new species are designated by an * preceding the vulgar name.

Californian Vulture, Cathartes calif ornianiis.

Turkey Buzzard, or Vulture, Cathartes aura.

Golden Eagle, Falco chrysaetos.

White-headed, or Bald Eagle, Falco Icitcocephalus.

Fish Hawk, Falco halicetus.

Sparrow Hawk, Falco sparverius.

Pigeon Hawk, Falco columharius.

Merlin, Falco (ssalon.

Great-footed, or Duck Hawk, Falco peregrinvs.

Sharp-shinned Hawk, Falco velox.

Hen Harrier, or Marsh Hawk, Falco cyaneus.

Cooper's Hawk, Falco Cooperii.

Red-tailed Hawk, Falco borealis.

Black Hawk, Falco sancti-joliannes.

Rough-legged Hawk, or Falcon, Falco lagopus.

Common Hawk, or Buzzard, Falco {huteo) vulgaris.

332

APPENDIX.

Winter Hawk, or Falcon, Falco hyemalis.

Great Cinereous Owl, Strix cinerea.

Great-horned Owl, Strix virginiana.

Red Owl, Strix asio.

Mottled Owl, Strix nosvia.

Long-eared Owl, Strix otus.

Short-eared Owl, Strix brachyottis. ,

Little Owl, Strix acadica.

Tengmalm's Owl, Strix Tengmalmi.

Burrowing Owl, Strix cunicidaria.

Passerine Owl, Strix passerinoides.

Meadow Lark, or Starling, Sturnus ludomcianus.

Red-winged Starling, or Oriole, Icterus iihceniceus.

Bullock's Oriole, Icterus Bullocki.

Rusty Blackbird, or Grakle, Qidscalus ferruginet/s.

Raven, Corvus corax.

Common Crow, Corvus corone.

Fish Crow, Corvus ossifragus.

Magpie, Corvus pica.

Clark's Crow, Corvus columbianus.

Steller's Jay, Garrulus Stelleri.

Ultramarine Jay, Garrulus ultramarinus.

Canada Jay, Garridus canadensis.

Black-capt Titmouse, Parus atricapillus.
*Chestnut backed Titmouse, Parus rufescens, (Townsend.)
*Brown-headed Titmouse, Parus minimus, (Townsend.)

Cedar Bird, or Cherry Bird, Bombycilla carolinensis.

Great American Shrike, Lanius septentrionalis.

Loggerhead Shrike, Lanius ludovicianus.

Tyrant Flycatcher, or King Bird, Muscicapa tyranmoi.

Cooper's Flycatcher, Muscicapa Cooperi.

Pewit Flycatcher, Muscicapa fusca.

Wood Pewee Flycatcher, Muscicapa virens.

Small Green-crested Flycatcher, Muscicapa acadica.

Traill's Flycatcher, Muscicapa Trailli.

Little Flycatcher, Muscicapa pusilla, (Swainson.)

Arkansas Flycatcher, Muscicapa verticalis.

Say's Flycntcher, Muscicapa Saya.

Yellow-breasted Chat, Icttria viridis.

APPENDIX. 333

Solitary Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo solitarius.

VVarbling Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo gilcvs.

White-eyed Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo noveboracensis.
^Mountain Mocking Bird, Orpheus montanus, (Townsend.)

American Robin, Turdvs migratorius.

Varying Thrush, Tardus natma.

Hermit Thnash, Tardus minor.

Wilson's Tawny Thrush, Tardus Wilsonii.

Golden-crowned Thrush, Tardus aurocapillus.
* White tailed Thrush, (not in the collection.)
*Townsend's Thrush, Ptiliogonys Townsendi, (Audubon.)
*Morton's Water Ouzel, Cinclus Mortoni, (Townsend.)
^Columbian Water Ouzel, Cinclus Townsendi, (Audubon.)

Blue-eyed Yellow Warbler, Sylvia cestiva.

Maryland Yellow-throat, Sylvia trichas.
*Tolmie's Warbler, Sylvia Tolmei, (Townsend.)

Cserulean Warbler, Sylvia azurea.

Wilson's Green-black Capt Warbler, Sylvia Wilsoiii.

Orange-crowned Warbler, Sylvia celata.
*Hermit Warbler, Sylvia occidentalis, (Townsend.)
*Black-throated Gray Warbler, Sylvia nigrescens, (Townsend.)
^Audubon's Warbler, Sylvia Audahoni, (Townsend.)
*Townsend's Warbler, Sylvia Townsendi, (Nuttall.)
*Ash-headed Warbler, Sylvip, {not described.)

Ruby-crowned Wren, Regidus calendula.

Golden-crested Wren, Regulus cristatas.

Common Wren, Troglodytes cedon.

Winter Wren, Troglodytes hyernalis.

Bewick's Wren, Troglodytes Beicicki.

Rocky-mountain Wren, Troglodytes obsoleta.

Arctic Blue Bird, Sialia arctica.
*Western Blue Bird, Sialia occidentalis, (Townsend.)

Brown Lark, Anthus spinoletta.

Shore Lark, Alanda cornuta, (Wilson.)

Snow Bunting, Emberiza nivalis.

Louisiana Tanager, Tanagra ludoviciana.
*Brown Longspur, Plectrophanes Toivnsendi, (Audubon.)

Luzuli Finch, Fringilla amoena.

White-crowned Bunting, or Finch, Fringilla leucophrys.

332

APPENDIX.

Winter Hawk, or Falcon, Falco hyemalis.

Great Cinereous Owl, Strix cinerea.

Great-horned Owl, Strix virginiana.

Red Owl, Strix asio.

Mottled Owl, Strix nosvia.

Long-eared Owl, Strix otus.

Short-eared Owl, Strix brachyottis. ,

Little Owl, Strix acadica.

Tengmalm's Owl, Strix Tengmalmi.

Burrowing Owl, Strix ciuiicularia.

Passerine Owl, Strix passerinoides.

Meadow Lark, or Starling, Sturnus ludovicianus.

Red-winged Starling, or Oriole, Icterus j^hoeniceus.

Bullock's Oriole, Icterus Bullocki.

Rusty Blackbird, or Grakle, Quiscalus ferrugineus.

Raven, Corvus corax.

Common Crow, Corvus corone.

Fish Crow, Corvus ossifragus.

Magpie, Corvus pica.

Clark's Crow, Corvus columhianus.

Steller's Jay, Garrxdus Stelleri.

Ultramarine Jay, Garrulus ultramarinus.

Canada Jay, Garrulus canadensis.

Black-capt Titmouse, Parus atricapillus.
*Chestnut backed Titmouse, Parus ?'ufescens, (Townsend.)
*Brown-headed Titmouse, Parus minimus, (Townsend.)

Cedar Bird, or Cherry Bird, Bombycilla carolinensis.

Great American Shrike, Lanius scptentrionalis.

Logijerhead Shrike, Lanius ludovicianus.

Tyrant Flycatcher, or King Bird, Muscicapa tyrannus.

Cooper's Flycatcher, Muscicapa Cooperi.

Pewit Flycatcher, Muscicapa fusca.

Wood Pewee Flycatcher, Muscicapa virens.

Small Green-crested Flycatcher, Muscicapa acadica.

Traill's Flycatcher, Muscicapa Trailli.

Little Flycatcher, Muscicapa pusilla, (Swainson.)

Arkansas Flycatcher, Muscicapa verticalis.

Say's F\ycatcher, Muscicapa Saya.

Yellow-breasted Chat, Icteria viridis.

APPENDIX. 333

Solitary Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo soUtarius.

VVarbling Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo gilvvs.

White-eyed Flycatcher, or Vireo, Vireo novehoracensis.
^Mountain Mocking Bird, Orpheus montanus, (Townsknd.)

American Robin, Turdus migratorius.

Varying Thrush, Turdus ncuvia.

Hermit Thrush, Turdus minor.

Wilson's Tawny Thrush, Turdus Wilsonii.

Golden-crowned Thrush, Turdus aurocapillus.
* White tailed Thrush, {not in the collection.)
*Townsend's Thrush, Ptiliogonys Townsendi, (Audubon.)
*Morton's Water Ouzel, Cinclus Mortoni, (Townsend.)
^Columbian Water Ouzel, Cinclus Townsendi, (Audubon.)

Blue-eyed Yellow Warbler, Sylvia ozstiva.

Maryland Yellow-throat, Sylvia trichas.
*Tolmie's Warbler, Sylvia Tolmei, (Townsend.)

Cserulean Warbler, Sylvia azurea.

Wilson's Green-black Capt Warbler, Sylvia Wilsoni.

Orange-crowned Warbler, Sylvia celata.
*Hermit Warbler, Sylvia occidentalis, (Townsend.)
*Black-throated Gray Warbler, Sylvia nigrescens, (Townsend.)
^Audubon's Warbler, Sylvia Auduboni, (Townsend.)
*Townsend's Warbler, Sylvia Townsendi, (Nuttall.)
*Ash-headed Warbler, Sylvip, [not described.)

Ruby-crowned Wren, Regulus calendula.

Golden-crested Wren, Regulus cristatus.

Common Wren, Troglodytes cedon.

Winter Wren, Troglodytes hyemalis.

Bewick's Wren, Troglodytes Bctvicki.

Rocky-mountain Wren, Troglodytes obsoleta.

Arctic Blue Bird, Sialia arctica.
*Western Blue Bird, Sialia occidentalis, (Townsend.)

Brown Lark, Anthus spinoletta.

Shore Lark, Alanda cornuta, (Wilson.)

Snow Bunting, Emberiza nivalis.

Louisiana Tanager, Tanagra ludovidana.
*Brown Longspur, Flectrophanes Totvnsendi, (Audubon.)

Luzuli Finch, Fringillu amaina.

White-crowned Bunting, or Finch, Fringilla leucophrys.

336 APPENDIX.

Red-necked Grebe, Podiceps rubricollis.

Black Tern, Sterna nigra.

Glaucous Gull, Larus glaucous.

Common Gull, Larus caniis.

Ring-billed Gull, Larus zonorrhyncJms.

Wilson's Stormy Petrel, Thalassidroma Wilsonii.

Brown Albatross, Diomedea fusca.

White, or Snow Goose, Anser hyperboreus.

White-fronted Goose, Anser albifrons.

Black-headed Goose, Anser canadensis.

Hutchins's Brant Goose, Anser Hutchinsii.

Bewick's Swan, Cygnus Bewickii.

Trumpeter Swan, Cygnus buccinator, (Richardson.)

Mallard Duck, Jinas boschas.

American Widgeon, Anas Americana.

Summer, or Wood Duck, A7ias sponsa.

Green- winged Teal, Anas crccca.

Shoveller Duck, Anas clypeata.

Dusky Duck, Anas obscura.

Pintail Duck, Anas acuta.

Black, or Surf Duck, Fuligula perspicillata..

Blue-bill, or Scaup Duck, Fuligula marila.

Canvass-back Duck, Fuligula valisneria.

Tufted, or Ring-necked Duck, Fuligula riijitorques.

Harlequin Duck, Fuligula histrionica.

Golden-eye Duck, Fuligula clangula.

Long-tailed Duck, Fuligula glacialis.

Goosander, Mergus merganser.

Hooded, or Crested Merganser, Mergus cucullatus.

White Pelican, Pelecanus onocrotalus.

Brown Pelican, Pelecanus fuscus.

Black Cormorant, Phalacrocorax carbo.

*Violet-green Cormorant, Phalacrocorax splendens, (Town-
send.)

*Townsend's Cormorant, Phalacrocorax Townsendi, (Au-
dubon.)

Loon, or Great Northern Diver, Colymbus glacialis.

Black Guillemot, XJria grylle.
*Slender-billed Guillemot, Uria Townsendi. (Audubon.)

afpeivdix. 337

Chestnut-backed Tit^iouse.
Parus *riifescens, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
Vol. 7, part II., p. 190. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. 4, pi.
353. Male and female. 7"w/oo(yi/«//a of the Chinook Indians.

Bill black ; head and throat sooty-brown, or dark umber ; a
white line from the bill under the eye, extending to the hind-
head, where it increases considerably in breadth ; whole back
and rump chestnut ; wings and emarginate tail dusky ; the
exterior edges of the feathers of the former, as well as the coverts,
whitish ; breast, belly and vent, grayish-white, the base of the
plumage blackish ; flanks chestnut ; legs and feet blue. Leno-th
scarcely 4^ inches ; extent of wings 6| inches. The sexes are
very nearly alike.

Inhabits the Columbia river ; common, gregarious. Voice
somewhat similar to P. atricapillus, but sharper and more
squeaking.

Brown-headed Titmouse.

Parus *minimus, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
Vol. 7, part II., p, 190. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV, pi.
35.3. Male, female and nest. A-ha-ke-loh of the Chinook Indians.
Bill short, stout, and entirely black ; top of the head light-brown
or rust color, paler on the cheeks ; whole back and rump cine-
reous-gray ; the wings and tail cinereous-brown, the feathers of
the former edged exteriorly and interiorly with light gray ; third
and fourth primaries longest ; tail remarkably long, of twelve
rather narrow feathers ; whole lower parts gray, the belly and
flanks inclining to rust. Legs and feet blackish. Iz'ides yellow.
Whole length 4 inches ; length of tail 2 inches ; extent of wings
5 inches. The male and female are very similar in size and
markings.

I first observed this little species on the Columbia river in
May, 1835, and procured a pair. They hopped through the
bushes, and hung from the twigs in the manner of other titmice,
twittering all the time, with a rapid enunciation, resembling the
words, tsish-tsish-tsee-tsee. Upon my return, I found that Mr.
Nuttall had observed the same birds a few hours previously in
another place. He said that they frequently flew to the ground

43

338 APPENDIX.

from the bushes, where they appeared to institute a rapid search
for insects, and quickly retui'ned to the perch, emitting their
weak, querulous note the whole time without intermission. The
stomachs of these birds contained fragments of minute coleop-
terous insects, and in the ovary of the female was an egg nearly
ready for expulsion.

The nest, which Mr. N. found a few days afterwards, is a very
curious and beautiful fabric, somewhat like that of the bottle tit
of Europe, being from eight to nine inches in length, formed of
fine bent, lined with hair, and covered externally with mosses,
the hole for entrance near the top. It was suspended from a
low bush, and contained seven eggs, very small and beautifully
shaped, and pure white.

Mountain Mocking-bird.
Orpheus *montanus, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci-
ences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 192. Audubon's Birds of America,
Vol. IV., pi. 369. Male.

Mandibles black, the lower flesh-color at base ; whole upper
parts dull grayish-cinereous, slightly barred transversely with
white ; flexure of the wing and axillaries whitish ; third pri-
mary longest, first and fifth nearly equal ; tail long, rounded,
of a dark cinereous color, the three lateral feathers with a lai*ge
white spot on the tip of the inner vanes ; lower parts white, with
longitudinal, oblanceolate spots of black, largest and most nu-
merous on the breast ; a line formed of small black spots extends
from the base of the lower mandible on either side, down upon
the breast; flanks, vent, and inferior tail-coverts whitish, strongly
tinged with bay. Legs and feet yellowish flesh-color. Irides
bright yellow. Length 8 inches.

Female unknown.

Inhabits the banks of the Platte river, west of the Rocky
Mountains.

Townsend's Thrush.

*Ptiliogonys *Townsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America,
Vol. IV., pi. 419. Female.

Bill black ; whole upper parts of a dark, smoke-gray color,
inclining to yellowish ; tail somewhat emarginate, long, the fea-
thers black, except the two middle ones, which are of the same
color as the back, the outer one almost wholly white, and the

AI'l'ENDIX.

339

two next largely tipped with white ; wings blackish, the feathers
broadly margined with light grayish-cinereous; a triangular spot
of yellowish-rufous below the lesser coverts, which is scarcely
visible when the wing is closed ; lower parts nearly the same
color as the back, but lighter ; vent, and inferior tail-coverts yel-
lowish-rusty. Legs and feet blackish-brown. Irides dark hazel.
Length 7^ inches.

Of this singular bird I know nothing, but that it was shot by
my friend Captain W. Brotchie, of the Honorable Hudson's Bay
Company, in a pine forest near Fort George, (Astoria.) It was
the only specimen seen.

Morton's Water Ouzel.

Cinclus *Mortoni, (Townsend.) Audubon's Birds of Ame-
rica, Vol. IV., pi. 435. Male.

Upper mandible black; lower brownish-yellow, the point black ;
head, and neck above, dark cinereous ; back, rump and tail
plumbeous ; wings dusky, plumbeous on the edges, the two
greater coverts tipped with soiled white ; tail remarkably short ;
eyelids white ; a semi-lunated spot of white over the eye ; throat,
breast, and upper portion of the belly, grayish-fuscous, inclining
to brown, and slightly banded transversely with blackish ; abdo-
men and vent, dull grayish-plumbeous ; inferior tail-coverts, which
are nearly the length of the tail, barred transversely with gray
and blackish. Irides dark hazel. Legs and feet brownish-yel-
low. Length about 5 inches.

I have honored this species with the name of my excellent
friend, Doctor Samuel George Morton, of Philadelphia. It was
shot by Captain W. Brotchie, near Fort McLoughlin, on the
N. W. coast of America, in latitude about 49'' N. He stated
that it was common there, and inhabited, like the rest of its tribe,
the rapid fresh water streams. He procured but one specimen.

Columbian Water Ouzel.

Cinclus *Townsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV.,
pi. 435. Female.

Upper mandible black, the inferior edge bright yellow ; lower,
yellow, black at the point ; whole lower parts dark grayish-
plumbeous, rather lighter on the head ; a large lunate spot of
white over the eye, which inclines toward the front ; wings dark
plumbeous, the shoulders lighter ; the exterior vanes of the pri-

340 ArPE>'Dix.

maries, secondaries, and of some of the coverts, grayish-white ;
throat, breast, and medial portion of the belly dusky-cinereous; sides
under the wings and flanks, dusky ; the whole inferior surface of
the body is banded transversely with blackish ; the bands upon
the throat are broken, and not well defined, but as they approach
the tail they become more distinct ; lower tail-coverts with
strongly marked alternate transverse lines of blackish and white.
The tail is much longer in proportion than that of the preceding
species. Irides dark hazel. Legs and feet bright yellow. Length
about 7 inches.

This fine bird inhabits the swiftly running streams of fresh
water in the vicinity of Fort Vancouver. It is a very scarce
species, as in all my peregrinations I have met with but two in-
dividuals, only one of which I was enabled to procure.

This I observed swimming about among the rapids of the
stream, occasionally flying for short distances over the surface,
and then diving into it, and reappearing after a long interval.
Occasionally it would alight on the stones, and at such times
jerked the tail in the manner of some of the sandpipers. I did
not hear it utter any note.

Hermit Warbler.

Sylvia *occide.ntalis, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat.
Sciences, Vol. 7, part IL, p. 190. Audubon's Birds of America,
Vol. IV., pi. 39.5. Male and female.

The bill is wholly black ; the frontlet, crown, and sides of the
head yellow, the former rather sparingly dotted with blackish
near the nape, where the yellow color almost disappears, by the
increase in the size of the spots ; upper parts grayish, thickly
spotted with black, and most of the feathers tinged with olive ;
the rump is somewhat lighter, having few or no spots, and more
strongly tinged with light olive ; wings cinereous, with two bands
of white ; tail darker, the three lateral feathers with white on their
inner vanes ; throat deep black ; whole' lower parts white. Legs and
feet blackish, the soles yellow. Length 5 inches. Extent 7 inches.

The female difl^ers from the male in having the yellow of the
crown and cheeks less bright, the dark spots upon the head are
larger and more numerous ; the back is of a lighter tint ; the
black centres of lTie feathers smaller, and the throat wants the
jetty black which is so conspicuous in the male.

APPENDIX. 341

I shot a single pair of these birds in a pine forest on the Co-
lumbia river, on the 28th of May, 1835. They were flitting
about among the pine trees, very actively engaged in searching
for insects, and frequently hanging from the boughs like titmice.

Black-throated Gray Warbler.

Sylvia *nigrescens, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci-
ences, Vol. 7, part II, p. 191. Audubon's Birds of America,
Vol. IV, pi. 395, male.

The bill is black, and stout ; crown and hind head black, the
feathers edged with grayish-plumbeous ; a line from the lower
mandible on each side of the head, extending to the neck, white;
a similar broad white line above the cheeks, running parallel
v/ith the first, and approaching it on the neck ; a small bright
yellow spot on the lores ; upper parts grayish-plumbeous, the
back and upper tail-covei"ts with a ^ew oblanceolate spots of
black ; wings and tail dusky, the former with two white bands ;
and the three exterior feathers of the latter with white on their
inner vanes ; throat and pectoral collar black; flanks with nu-
merous spots of black ; axillaries grayish-white ; belly and vent
white, with a tinge of yellowish. Legs and feet dusky-brown.
Length nearly 5 inches. Extent of wings 7 inches.

This species is not uncommon in the forests of oak on the Co-
lumbia river. It is, however, singularly retired and seden-
tary. Its note is a rather feeble, but agreeable warble.
Sings chiefly in the morning early ; silent at mid-day. I have
reason to believe, that at least a ky^ pairs breed on the Columbia,
but I have never been so fortunate as to find the nest.

Townsend's Warbler.
Sylvia * Townsendi, (Nuttall,) Jour. Acad. Nat. Sci. Vol. 7, pt.
II., pagel91. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV. pi. 393. Male.
The crown, lores, a broad patch through the eye to the hind-
head, and throat, deep black, the first thickly touched towards
the back part, with greenish ; back and rump greenish-
yellow, spotted all over with black, the spots somewhat
concealed b)'' the recumbent plumage ; wings dusky-cinereous,
edged with grayish lead-color, and crossed by two "ra-
ther broad bands of white ; tail emarginate, of twelve dusky
feathers, the three lateral ones, with white on their inner
vanes ; over the eye, from the bill to the hind-head, is a broad

342 APPENDIX.

line of I'ich yellow ; a similar yellow line from the lower mandi-
ble, round to the back of the neck, joining the first, and enclos-
ing the black patch ; a spot below the eye, also yellow; breast
yellow ; flanks marked with yellow, black, and white, the black
predominating ; axillaries, belly and vent, pure white ; bill and
feet black, the soles of the latter, yellow. Length 5 inches.
Extent of winors 7 inches.

I procured but one specimen of this beautiful bird, on the Co-
lumbia river, in the spring of 1835. Early in autumn of the same
year, I shot another male, in a somewhat plainer livery.

It does not breed there, and I know nothing of its habits.

Audubon's Warbler.
Sylvia *Audvboni, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Natural
Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 191. Audubon's Birds of America,
Vol. IV., pi. 395. Male and female.

Bill slender, black; upper parts light plumbeous; crown,
throat, rump, and sides under the wings, gamboge yellow ; lores,
and a broad space behind and below the eye, including the auri-
culars, black ; a white spot above and below the eye ; feathers
of the back with large, pointed spots of black, occupying the
shafts, and a portion of each vane ; wings dusky, all the feathers
edged exteriorly with grayish ; wing-coverts tipped with white,
forming a large spot below the shoulder ; upper tail-coverts light
plumbeous, largely lipped with black ; tail long, nearly even,
blackish, edged with dark gray, and every feather, except the
two middle ones, with a large spot of white on the inner vane,
near the tip ; breast and sides of the belly, black ; medial por-
tion of the latter, vent and inferior tail-coverts, white ; legs and
feet brownish-black. Irides dark hazel. Length 5 inches.

The female has the upper parts brownish, spotted and streaked
with black ; the yellow on the crown, rump, and flanks is more
restricted and fainter than in the male, and it wants the large bed
of white upon the wing; throat white; breast and belly varied
with black and white.

Very common on the Columbia river in the spring, where it
breeds. It sings quite prettily, but, like some others of its family,
is rather monotonous. The note very much resembles that of
S. coronata, to which the species is closely allied, but unlike the
bird just named, it keeps in the thickest and most impervious

APPENCIIX. 343

clumps of bushes while singing, and is always silent when en-
gaged in seeking its food.

Tolmie's Warbler.

Sylvia *Tolmiei, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
Vol. 8, part I. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 399.
Male and female. (S, Philadelphia in the plate.)

The bill is brownish above, pale flesh-color beneath, darker at
the point ; lores and narrow frontlet black ; whole head, neck,
and upper part of the breast, dark sooty-ash, the feathers of the
latter fringed with white ; upper parts greenish yellow-olive ; the
tail brighter, and of a uniform color, without spots ; wings lightish
cinereous, the exterior vanes of all the feathers, including the
coverts, yellow. Legs and feet flesh-color. Length 5 inches.
Extent of wings 6^ inches.

The female differs from the male, chiefly by having the head
and throat light ash-color, without any black, and in being desti-
tute of the black frontlet and lores.

This pretty species, so much resembling the curious S. Phila-
delphia of Wilson, is common in spring on the Columbia. It is
mostly solitary, and extremely wary, keeping chiefly in the
densest and most impenetrable thickets, and gliding through them
in a very cautious and suspicious manner. It may, however,
sometimes be seen towards mid-day, perched upon a dead twig
over its favorite place of concealment, and at such times it war-
bles a very sprightly and pleasant little song, raising its head
until the bill is almost vertical, and swellins: its throat in the
manner of many of its relatives.

I dedicate the species to my friend W. F. Tolmie, Esq., of Fort
Vancouver.

Western Blue Bird.

Sialia *occ.identalis, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
Vol. 7, part II., p. 188. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV.,
pi. 393. Male and female.

Bill dark horn color, or nearly black; head, upper portion of
the back, and throat, of a fine deep mazarine blue, the last some-
what paler ; a broad transverse band on the interscapular region,
and thewhole of the lower breast and belly, dark rufous bay; wings,
back, upper tail-coverts and tail, of the same deep blue as the head ;
the inner vanes of all the wing feathers dark fuscous; vent and

344 APPENDIX.

lower tail-coverts white ; legs and feet blackish horn-color.
Irides dark hazel. Length 6| inches.

The female has the upper parts dark cinereous, slightly waved
with blue; the shoulders, primary quills, upper tail-coverts and
tail, are rich blue, as in the male ; the greater coverts and in-
terior edges of the scapulars and secondaries, whitish ; whole
lower parts light bay, the vent and lower tail-coverts white.
About half an inch shorter than the male.

Common on the Columbia river in the spring. It arrives from
the south early in April, and about the first week in May com-
mences building. The nest is placed in the hollow of a decayed
tree, and is very loose and unsubstantial. The eggs, four to five,
are light blue, somewhat larger than those of the common blue
bird, (S. Wilsonii.)

A flock of eight or ten of these birds visited the British fort on
the Columbia, on a fine day in the winter of 1835. They con-
fined themselves chiefly to the fences, occasionally flying to the
ground and scratching among the snow for minute insects, the
fragments of which were found in the stomachs of several which
I killed. After procuring an insect, the male usually returned
to the fence again, and warbled for a minute most delightfully.
This note, although somewhat like that of our common Wilsonii,
is still so different as to be easily recognised. It is equally sweet
and clear, but of so little compass, (at this season,) as to be heard
only a short distance. In the spring it is louder, but it is at all
times much less strong than that of the common species.

Chestnut-colored Finch.
Plectrophanes *o?'nata, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat.
Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 189. Audubon's Birds of America,
Vol. IV., pi. 394. Male.

Mandibles pale flesh-color, the upper, black along the ridge,
and both black at tip ; upper portion of the head black ; a line of
white commences at the nostrils, and passes over the eye, where
it is expanded so as to form a large semi-lunated spot, and is con-
tinued irregularly back to the nape ; below this and towards the
throat are several irregular alternate spots of white and black ;
auriculars, and gular region faint rufous ; a broad transverse
band of deep bay on the hind part of the neck, comprehending a
portion of the back ; upper part of the body light cinereous, with

APPENDIX. 345

numerous spots of dusky ; these spots run into each other so as
to be scarcely distinguishable; wings dusky ; first and second
primaries nearly equal, and longest; upper coverts of the wing
slightly edged with cream ; a large transverse band of white
upon the lower portion of the throat, margining the faint rufous
of the gular region, and joining the bay on the hind part of the
neck ; breast and abdomen deep black, irregularly waved with
cinereous and white ; vent and inferior tail-coverts white ; tail
emarginate, the outer feathers nearly all white; all the others
with a large portion of white, chiefly on their inner vanes, the
tips dusky. Legs and feet yellowish-dusky. Irides dark hazel.
Length Ss inches.

Female unknown.

Inhabits the plains of the Platte river, near the first range of
the Rocky Mountains. It appears to live exclusively upon the
ground, and is a very rai'e and shy species. I procured but one
specimen.

Townsend's Ground Finch, or Longspur.

Plectrophanes ^Townsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America,
Vol. IV., pi. 424. Female.

Upper mandible cinnamon ; lower, light yellow ; whole upper
parts, and tail, dark rufous ; wing feathers blackish, edged with
yellowish-rufous ; throat, breast, and belly white, with numerous
irregular spots and blotches of dark brown ; a line of brown and
black spots extends from the base of the lower mandible on each
side, down upon the throat ; inferior portion of the flanks, vent,
and upper tail-coverts, yellowish-brown, with a few spots of
black occupying the centre of the feathers. Legs and feet yel-
lowish, claws black. Irides dark hazel. Length 65 inches.

This species is common in the neighborhood of Foi't Vancou-
ver on the Columbia. It inhabits the dense bushes chiefly in the
vicinity of low, marshy places, and feeds upon coleopterous in-
sects and worms, for which it searches in the ground by scratch-
ing up the earth with its feet. It is observed only in the autumn
and winter.

Oregon Snow Finch.
Fringilla *oregona, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Natural

44

346 APPENDIX.

Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., page 188. Audubon's Birds of Ame-
rica, Vol. IV., pi. 398. Male and female.

The bill is a pale flesh color, the upper mandible brownish at
the point ; head, neck, and upper part of the breast, black ; the
feathers slightly tipped with white ; on the hind-head and back
of the neck, are some touches of brown or bay, mixed with the
white sprinkling ; back rufous-brown or bay ; rump grayish-
plumbeous, slightly touched with bay ; upper tail-coverts and
tail cinereous, the former slightly tipped with pale brown, the
outer vanes of the feathers of the latter edged with the same
color; first lateral tail-feather pure white ; second white, with the
exception of a small edging of cinereous on the outer vane, near
the tip ; third, with a broad stripe of white on the inner vane,
extending from the point nearly to the base; wings dark cinereous,
the outer vanes edged with whitish, the greater coverts and ter-
tials margined with bay ; third and fourth primaries nearly equal,
and longest ; lower part of the breast and belly white ; flanks
light yellowish-bay, the lower tail-coverts with a lighter tint of
the same color ; tibial feathers cinereous, spotted v/ith gray.
Legs and feet flesh-color ; claws light horn color. Length 5|
inches. Extent of wing 8| inches.

The female is very similar to the male, except that the general
colors are somewhat fainter.

Common on the Columbia river in winter. Gregarious.
Voice, and general habits similar to F. hyemalis.

Prairie Finch.

Fringilla *bicolo?-, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
Vol. 7, part. II., p. 189. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV.,
pi. 390. Male and female.

The head and back are black, shaded with ash ; rump ash ;
superior tail-coverts and tail, blackish-brown, the former slightly
edged with white ; all the feathers of the latter tipped with white ;
a broad patch of white upon the wing ; secondaries and tertials
tipped and edged with white ; throat, cheeks, and whole lower
parts, deep black, the feathers on the belly, and the inferior tail-
coverts, tipped with white. The upper mandible is of a lightish
brown color, the lower, pale bluish-white. Legs and feet olive-
brown. Length 7^ inches. Extent about 11 inches.

APPENDIX. 347

Tlie female has the head, and whole upper parts, of a light
ash, or cinereous color, varied with blackish ; large patches of
yellowish-white upon the wing-coverts ; throat and breast varied
with black, and white ; belly white ; all the lateral tail-feathers
tipped with white on their inner webs.

This very pretty and distinct species inhabits a portion of the
Platte country, east of the first range of the Rocky Mountains. It
appears to be strictly gregarious. Feeds upon the ground, along
which it runs swiftly, like the grass finch (F. graminea,) to
which it is somewhat allied. As the large flocks, (consisting
often of from sixty to a hundred,) were started from the ground
by our caravan in passing, the piebald appearance of the males
and females promiscuously intermingled, presented a curious, but
by no means unpleasing effect. While the flock is engaged in
feeding, the males are frequently observed to rise suddenly to a
considerable height, and poising themselves over their com-
panions, with their wings in constant and rapid motion, they be-
come nearly stationary. In this situation, they pour forth a
number of very lively and sweetly modulated notes, and at the
expiration of about a minute, descend to the ground, and course
about as before. I never observed this bird west of the Black Hills.

Harris's Woodpecker.
Picus *Harrisi, (Audubon,) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi.
417. Male and female.

Bill bluish-black ; feathers covering the nostrils cinereous-
brown ; upper part of the head, and an oblong spot below the eye,
back ; a stripe of white commences in front of the eye above,
and extends back to the nape, where it is joined by a similar
stripe, which begins at the lower mandible ; the semicircle form-
ed by this white line, encloses the black spot on the auriculars ;
another black line commences at the base of the lower mandible,
bounding the white, and is continued down upon the shoulder,
where it is somewhat expanded anteriorly; a broad occipital band,
red ; upper parts black, the wings strongly glossed with blue ;
the primaries, secondaries, and a few of the tertails, with nume-
rous spots of white ; a stripe down the middle of the back, white;
tail long, cuneiform, black, the three exterior feathers brownish-
wliite ; the whole of the lower plumage is of a deep sooty-brown.

348 APPENDIX.

whitish on the flanks ;- legs and feet bluish-black. Irides dark
hazel. Length 8 inches.

The female differs from the male, chiefly in the absence of the
red occipital band.

This species, so much resembling the common P. villostis, is
abundant in the forests on the Columbia river. Its habits are
very similar to those of its near relative. Builds a loose and un-
substantial nest, in the hollow of a decayed tree, and lays four
white e2:gs.

Vaux's Chimney Swallow.

Cypcelus *Vauxl, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences,
Vol. 8, part I. Female. ,

Bill slender, black ; upper parts of a dull smoke-brown, in-
clining to blackish upon the interscapular region ; shoulders and
primary quills blackish ; the rump and tail are of a much lighter
color than the back, being dull cinereous-brown ; shafts of the
tail-feathers, and their points, black ; wings of ordinary length,
extending about two inches beyond the tail ; throat, and upper
portion of the breast, grayish-white ; belly, and all below, cine-
reous-gray. Legs and feet brownish-black. Irides dark hazel.
Length 3| inches. Extent of wings 10 inches. It differs from
the C pelasgius, with which it has been confounded, in several
very striking particulars. It is one inch shorter, and two inches
less in extent ; the body is proportionably smaller in every aspect,
and the color much lighter.

This species, (which I dedicate to my friend, Wm. S. Vaux,
Esq., of Philadelphia,) is common on the Columbia river; breeds
in hollow trees, forming its nest in the same manner as the pelas-
gius, and lays four white eggs.

White-legged Oyster Catcher.

Hcematopus *Bachmani, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol.
IV., pi. 427. Male.

Bill yellow, red at base, and on the superior portion of the
upper mandible ; whole head, neck, and throat black ; back,
wings, and rump, brownish-fuscous, varied with a darker tint ;
tail somewhat rounded, blackish, the feathers edged with lighter;
flanks deep black ; belly, vent, and upper tail-coverts, brownish-

APPENDIX. 349

fuscous. Legs and feet white; claws yellowish-horn color;
eyelids bright red ; irides yellow. Length about 17 inches.

This fine species was shot near Puget's sound, by my friend
William Fraser Tolmie, Esq., surgeon of the Honorable Hud-
son's Bay Company, by whom it was presented to me. I was
anxious to give to it the name of its discoverer, but I have
been overruled by Mr. Audubon, who has probably had good
reasons for rejecting my proposed specific appellation, TolmicL
Rocky Mountain Plovkr.

Charadrius *montanvs, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat.
Sciences, Vol. 7, part IL, p. 192. Audubon's Birds of America,
Vol. IV., pi. 3.50. Male.

Bill and lores black ; front white, this color being continued
in a narrow line over the eye to the nape ; head-brownish-cine-
reous ; back of the neck, and cheeks behind the eye, yellowish-
tawney ; whole upper parts yellowish-cinereous, varied with a
darker tint ; wings ligJiter, the shoulders and flexura whitish ;
nearly all the secondaries, and some of the primaries, edged with
white ; upper tail-coverts, and even tail, brownish-cinereous, the
latter tipped with white ; legs and feet yellowish-dusky ; claws
black. Irides dark hazel. Length 85 inches.

Inhabits the table land of the Rocky Mountains. I saw but
one specimen of this beautiful bird, and, as our party was on the
move, I was compelled to kill it without delay.

Townsend's Sandpipek.

*Frinca *Toionsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV.,
pi. 428. Female.

Bill yellowish-brown, black at the point; a white line below
the eye ; whole upper parts dark ashy-cinereous, the secondaries
centred with blackish ; rump blackish ; upper tail-coverts pure
white ; tail blackish-brown, of ten feathers, the four lateral ones
white from their insertion half way to the points, and each tipped
with white ; greater wing-coverts, and bases of all the primaries,
white, forming a spot upon the wing when closed ; throat white ;
breast grayish-cinereous ; under surface of the wings white ;
belly, vent, and lower tail-coverts white ; a kw oblong black
spots, chiefly on the sides, and lower-coverts ; legs and feet
greenish ; claws black. Irides dark hazel. Length 10^ inches.

350

AFPENEIX.

I shot one specimen of this curious bird on the base of tlie
rocky cape at the entrance of the Columbia river, in November
1836. It was sitting on the edge of the steep rocks, and the
heavy surf frequently dashed its spray over it, as it foraged
among the retreating waves. When it started, it flew with a
quick, jerking motion of its wing, and alighted again at a short
distance. Although I resided for many weeks in the vicinity of
the cape, I never saw a second specimen. The stomach,
which was remarkably strong and muscular, contained fragments
of a small black shell fish, of the genus Modiola, which adheres
in clusters to the rocks.

Violet-green Cormorant.
Phalacrocorax *splendens. (Toavns. in lit. to Audubon.)
nP. resplendens (Audubon.) Birds of America Vol. IV., pi, 412.
Female in winter.

Bill greenish-dusky, blackish above ; front, light sea-green,
which color passes behind the eye, and around the gular region,
occupying the chief portion of the neck below ; neck above,
deep Prussian blue, with strong reflections of purple ; lateral part
of the neck lighter, with numerous minute specks of white,
formed by very small, hair-like feathers ; whole upper parts deep
green, reflecting shades of purple and violet ; wings greenish,
varied with dusky ; bare space on the gullet contracted, of a
yellowish-red color ; it includes the eye, but does not extend in
front to the lores ; tail long, rounded, dusky ; below, the colors
are nearly the same as the back ; a few white spots on the in-
ferior portion of the flanks. Legs and feet black ; the middle
claw strongly pectinated. Irides light sea-green. Length about
2 feet.

This most splendid of all the species of cormorants yet disco-
vered, inhabits in considerable numbers the Rocky Cape at the
entrance of the Columbia river, upon the sides of which it often
rests, and no doubt rears its young within the natural cavities
which front the tempestuous ocean, and in situations wholly in-
accessible to man. Sometimes many weeks elapse in which not
a single cormorant is seen, when suddenly a flock of fifty or six-
ty, is observed to enter the bay, every individual of which imme-
diately commences an assiduous search for the small fish
and mollusca which constitute its food. It never ascends the

APPENDIX. 351

river, but keeping almost constantly around the cape, under shel-
ter of the enormous breakers which are incessantly dashing
against it, successfully defies all attempts to shoot it. The pro-
curing of the only specimen which I was ever enabled to kill,
almost cost the lives of myself and eight men. Our boat was
carried with frightful velocity into the furious breakers, and a full
hour was consumed in unremitting efforts to escape the danger
towards which the swift current was hurrying us.

The Indians of the N. W. coast make cloaks of the skins of
this bird sewed together. It is probably even more numerous to
the north of Cape Disappointment, and must necessarily frequent
less inaccessible places.

TowjVsend's Cormokant.

Phalacrocorax *Townsendi, (Audubon.) Birds of America,
Vol. IV., pi. 412. Male.

Bill light-yellow, black above ; crown, and upper part of the
neck to the interscapulars, yellowish-fuscous ; lateral part of the
hind-head and neck, pointed with white like the preceding spe-
cies ; middle of the back, rump and upper tail-coverts, dark
greenish, reflecting purple ; tail long, dusky ; lateral portion of
the upper surface of the body, including the scapulars and wings,
yellowish-fuscous, each feather edged with blackish ; bare space
on the gullet, which includes the eye, and extends upon the
lores, light red, streaked with a deeper tint ; sides of the head,
and throat whitish-cinereous ; breast and belly yellowish-rufous,
slightly varied with dusky ; vent and lower tail-coverts dark
brownish-fuscous ; a few longitudinal points of white on the
tibial feathers ; legs and feet black. Irides dai-k hazel. Length
about 28 inches.

This species inhabits the Columbia river, and is not uncom-
mon. It is seldom seen near the sea, but is mostly observed
high up upon the river. It is, like most species of its genus, par-
tially gregarious, and is fond of resting in company. The old
trees which are fastened in the bottom of the river, and protrude
above the surface, and the isolated rocks in the stream, are its
favorite places of resort. Here it sits, sometimes for hours to-
gether, indolently gazing into the water, and only leaving its
perch to seize an unsuspecting fish, which may happen to pass

352 APPENDIX.

near it. It is very shy and cautious, and is seldom killed even
by the Indians, who are fond of its flesh.

Slendee-billed Guillemot.

Uria *Townscndi, (Aubudon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi.
430. Male and female.

Bill very slender, black ; nostrils small, rounded, open ; an
interrupted circle of white around the eye; head and neck above,
dark umber brown, slightly waved with blackish ; back, rump, and
upper tail-coverts, light yellowish-fuscuos, with broad transverse
bands of black ; wings blackish, edged with grayish-plumbeous,
the greater coverts tipped with white ; tail short, rounded, extend-
ing about an inch beyond t,he closed wings ; throat cinereous- gray
waved transversely with a darker tint ; lower parts black, spotted
with white; flanks white; legs and feet sulphur yellow; claws
black. Irides dark hazel. Length 8 inches.

The female has the whole upper parts of a dull cinereous
color ; scapulars, and a narrow occipital band, white ; whole
lower parts white; a hw black, longitudinal streaks on the
flanks. Length about the same as the male.

Inhabits the bays of the N. W. Coast of America, in latitude
38° to 40°. The specimens were shot and presented to me by
Captain W. Brotchie, to whom I am under very great obligations
for the addition to ray collection of several line species.