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G-entLeman  of  Japan 


NARRATIVE 


OF    THE 


VOYAGE  OF  H.M.S.  SAMARANG, 

DURING  THE  YEARS  1843-46 ; 
EMPLOYED  SURVEYING  THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  EASTERN  ARCHIPELAGO ; 


ACCOMPANIED  BY  A  UK  IE  I? 


VOCABULARY  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  LANGUAGES. 


tmter  fye  8tttl)0rttji  at  tfje  ILattfS 
at  fije  •sfljmtraltjj. 


BY 

CAPTAIN  SIR  EDWARD  BELCHER,  R.N.,  C.B., 

F.R.A.S.,  F.G.S.,  &c. 

COMMANDER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 

WITH 

NOTES  ON  THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  ISLANDS, 
By  ARTHUR  ADAMS,  ASSISTANT-SURGEON,  R.N. 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 
VOL.  II. 


LONDON: 
REEVE,  BENHAM,  AND  REEVE,  KING  WILLIAM  STREET,  STRAND. 

1 848. 


REEVE,   BENHAH   AND   REEVE, 
rRINTKRS   AND    PUBLISHERS    O;'   8CIE.\TIFIC 
K1XG   WILLIAM    STHEKT.   STRAND. 


College 
Library 

DS 


CHAPTER  XI. 

JAPAN  AND  LOO-CHOO. 

Approach  Nangasaki — Escorted  by  numerous  guard-boats — Permission 
to  land — Observations  effected — Deputation  of  the  Chiefs  to  the 
Ship — Numerous  visitors — Japanese  customs  and  habits — Legal 
suicide — Dress  of  superior  class — Swords,  Boats,  &c. — Fortifica- 
tions of  Nangasaki — Batteries  of  the  Cavallos — Approach  the 
Ship  —  Interesting  interview  —  Reflections  on  Japan  and  the 
Japanese — Extracts  from  the  Voyage  of  the  'Morrison' — Leave 
Nangasaki — Gig  swamped  and  loss  of  valuable  Instruments — 
Arrival  at  Loo-Choo — Excursion  into  the  Interior — City  of  Sheudi 
— Napa  —  Pootsoong — Entertained  by  the  chief  Mandarins — 
Ramble  through  the  town — Japanese  Ship-building — Collegiate 
institutions — Want  of  cleanliness  and  attention  to  dress — Diet — 
Produce  of  the  market — Presentation  of  a  curious  document  de- 
nouncing the  system  of  Surveying. 

ON  the  1st  of  August,  we  took  our  departure  for  Japan, 
steering  a  course  for  the  Gotto  Islands,  which  we  passed 
on  the  night  of  the  5th  August,  and  then  shaped  our 
course  direct  for  Nangasaki,  with  the^hope  that  the  Au- 
thorities of  Japan  might  be  able  to  afford  us  supplies  of 
fresh  provisions,  until  I  could  ascertain  from  the  court 
whether  any  chance  existed  of  my  being  able  to  land, 
or  whether  they  would  hold  out  any  prospect  of  sup- 

VOL.  II,  B 


1005127 


APPROACH  NANGASAKI.          [1845. 

plies,  should  I  find  it  either  necessary,  or  politic,  to 
repeat  my  visit  the  ensuing  season.  Our  progress, 
however,  was  retarded  by  calm  and  variables  in  the 
morning,  and  it  was  not  until  8  o'clock  that  a  favour- 
able breeze  sprang  up,  carrying  us  slowly  along  the  land, 
and  enabling  us  leisurely  to  contemplate  the  scenery 
before  us.  The  forbidding  aspect  of  the  sea  features 
were  agreeably  relieved  by  the  successful  efforts  of  the 
cultivators  of  the  soil,  who  carried  their  terraced  gardens 
up  the  sides  of,  apparently,  the  most  barren  hills,  pre- 
senting the  appearance  of  steps  to  pyramids :  from 
whence  they  derive  water  for  the  irrigation  of  these  * 
gardens,  is  yet  problematical.  As  we  continued  to  ap- 
proach the  Port  of  Nangasaki,  the  common  fishing  and 
trading  vessels  were  succeeded  by  the  gay  official,  or 
guard  boats,  despatched  to  reconnoitre  so  unusual  a  visi- 
tant as  an  European  ship  of  war,  and  increasing  so 
rapidly  in  numbers,  as  to  afford  the  exhibition  of  a  Re- 
gatta, each  boat  being  of  beautiful  model,  elegantly 
painted,  and  equipped  with  light  and  picturesque  canvas, 
occasionally  varied  by  alternate  stripes  of  white  and  blue, 
as  well  as  plain,  and  no  two  exhibiting  the  same  flags, 
each  bearing  the  arms  of  its  office  or  chief  to  whom  it 
belonged. 

The  breeze  continuing  to  freshen  we  soon  out-sailed 
these  vessels,  but  one  rather  in  the  style  of  a  Pratique,  or 
health  boat,  motioning  a  wish  to  communicate,  our  pace  was 
reduced  and  she  came  alongside ;  the  officer  would  not, 
however,  come  on  board.  He  presented  a  small  box  upon 
the  end  of  a  staff,  in  which  I  found  a  letter,  worded  in 
Dutch  as  well  as  French,  requesting  me  to  "  anchor  near 


1845.]  APPEARANCE  OF  BATTERIES.  3 

the  Northern  Cavallos  in  a  convenient  berth,  and  to  remain 
there  until  further  notice."  Our  attention  was  now 
directed  towards  the  shores,  under  which  we  were  to 
anchor,  and  if  suspicion  of  hostilities  had  been  upper- 
most in  my  mind,  I  could  very  readily  have  been  per- 
suaded that  we  were  not  welcome  visitors.  Every  available 
level  was  apparently  studded  with  batteries  and  banners, 
and  our  approach  thus  escorted,  might  have  been  deno- 
minated an  easy  capture.  It  was  rather  too  great  a  stretch 
of  imagination,  however,  to  suppose  that  the  Japanese 
had  turned  pirates,  and  that  they  had  sent  out  a  letter  to 
seduce  us  into  their  port ;  independent  of  the  futility  of 
opening  a  quarrel  with  Great  Britain.  A  slight  glance 
with  the  telescope  discovered  our  mistake,  for  these  ap- 
parent lines  of  batteries  were  nothing  more  than  calico 
fences,  the  armorial  devices  of  which  we  had  mistaken 
for  embrasures. 

Nothing  like  surprise  was  exhibited,  everything  ap- 
peared to  proceed  as  if  we  had  been  expected,  and  thus 
escorted  by  the  mosquito  fleet,  we  at  length  reached  the 
spot,  where  the  harbour-master,  or  some  such  personage, 
seemed,  by  his  bawling  and  holding  up  his  boats'  grapnel, 
to  think,  that  we  ought  to  obey  his  mandate,  which 
evidently  meant,  anchor  instanter.  Whatever  courtesy  it 
may  be  proper  to  observe  in  our  intercourse  with  remote 
countries,  my  little  experience  in  such  matters,  has  taught 
me  that  to  yield  to  any  inferior  authority,  especially  of 
the  Tartar  breed,  is  to  reduce  one's  own  standard  very 
materially  in  the  estimation  of  demi-civilized  nations  ;  it 
was  not  my  intention  to  do  as  my  predecessors  had  done 
at  Japan,  my  visit  here  was  an  experimental  one,  and  it 

B2 


4  ORDERED  TO  ANCHOR.  [1845. 

remained,  therefore,  to  be  seen  whether  I  had  miscon- 
strued these  people.  I  had  proceeded  hither  entirely  at 
my  own  risk,  and  upon  my  head  would  any  failure  most 
inevitably  fall.  Looking  to  their  imperative  letter,  re- 
quiring obedience,  I  read,  "  Un  ordre  expres  du  Gover- 
neur  de  Nangasaki,  vous  en  joint  de  mouiller  pres  de 
Cavallos  Septentrional  dans  un  endroit  convenable"  &c. 
Now  as  I  did  not  intend  their  bawling  boatman  to  in- 
struct me  which  was  a  convenient  berth  for  my  ship, 
near  the  position  alluded  to,  I  stood  on  until  I  reached 
the  view  I  designed  to  have  of  the  inner  harbour,  and 
relative  range  of  the  batteries,  and  there  anchored.  After 
waiting  some  time,  a  boat  came  off,  and  hailed  us  in 
Dutch,  but  as  I  declined  having  any  communication  in 
that  language,  she  returned  to  the  shore,  leaving  us 
with  a  trivial  supply  of  guard  boats.  As  my  original 
communication,  by  the  pratique  boats,  led  me  to  expect 
an  immediate  visit  from  the  authorities,  I  drew  up  a 
letter,  by  the  aid  of  my  Chinese  interpreter,  stating  "  that 
having  in  compliment  to  their  customs,  performed  my 
part  of  the  contract  by  anchoring  in  the  position  assigned 
by  their  letter,  that  I  was  quite  at  a  loss  to  account  for 
their  want  of  attention  in  not  waiting  upon  me  according 
to  their  promise,  and  that  I  expected  an  officer  of  proper 
rank  might  be  sent  to  confer  with  me,  otherwise  I  should 
land  forthwith."  This  letter  was  not  despatched  until 
near  4  o'clock,  and  then  by  an  armed  boat  from  us  to 
the  nearest  guard-boat,  and  I  did  not  expect  a  reply 
before  the  morning.  To  my  great  surprise,  however,  this 
document  was  promptly  responded  to,  and  a  gaily  deco- 
rated boat  approached  the  ship,  attended  by  six  others, 


- 


1845.]  VISIT  OF  A  CHIEF.  5 

conveying  the  superior  officer,  who  waited  upon  me  with 
an  apology  for  their  seeming  remissness  as  well  as  to  ascer- 
tain my  wishes.  Matters  went  on  very  satisfactorily,  and 
before  quitting  the  ship  this  chief  had  complied  with  every 
desire  which  could  be  conceded  without  reference  to  the 
Prime  Minister,  and  arrangements  were  made  for  the 
ceremonial  visit  on  the  morrow,  at  noon.  Some  of  my 
readers  will,  doubtless,  be  as  much  astonished  as  my 
Officers  were,  when  I  inform  them  that  one  of  the  con- 
cessions of  these  people,  was,  the  granting  permission  to 
land  on  the  nearest  island,  where  there  were  only  a  few 
fishermens'  huts,  to  obtain  the  necessary  Astronomical 
and  Magnetic  Observations,  including  my  remaining  on 
shore  during  the  night,  to  obtain  the  Latitude  by  the 
stars  !  a  point  obstinately  refused  on  all  former  occasions ; 
but  as  I  informed  him  that  this  was  indispensible,  it  was 
on  this  occasion  cheerfully  conceded.  My  interpreter 
was  somewhat  alarmed  when  he  found  that  I  only  received 
this  chief  in  undress.  Siding  up  to  me,  he  observed, 
"  This  man  first  chop  Mandarin,  sir,  he  got  two  sword." 
However,  I  knew  a  little  more  on  the  subject  of  etiquette 
than  to  imagine  that  any  state  visit  would  take  place 
without  due  notice,  and  that  the  game  I  had  commenced 
must  be  played  out  in  the  same  spirit.  This  Officer, 
although  I  admit  his  powers  were  extraordinary  as  an 
aid-de-camp,  was,  nevertheless,  deputed  by  his  superior 
officer,  and  it  was  to  that  superior  alone,  in  his  proper 
style,  I  decided  to  advance  on  terms  of  equality.  On 
the  day  following,  our  landing  was  effected  without  diffi- 
culty or  confusion,  and  the  Observations,  up  to  noon, 
satisfactorily  conducted,  when  I  returned  to  the  ship,  to 


0  CONVERSATIONAL  INTERVIEW.  [1845. 

receive  my  guests.  As  I  was  still  informed  that  no  great 
personage  was  sent  to  visit  me,  I  retained  the  customary 
undress,  with  epaulettes.  The  party  consisted  of  four 
first-class  Chiefs,  including  our  visitor  of  the  previous 
day,  numerous  second-class,  and  but  few,  in  comparison, 
of  the  plain  gentry.  They  were  conducted  to  the  cabin 
and  between  decks,  and  partook  of  refreshments,  after 
which  they  preferred  the  cooler  air  of  the  quarter-deck, 
where  chairs  were  placed  for  them.  One  very  intelligent 
and  active  person,  who  seemed  to  fill  the  situation  of 
secretary  and  linguist  to  the  deputation,  acted  as  the 
medium  of  communication  with  our  Chinese  interpreter, 
occasionally  in  characters,  but  principally  viva  voce. 

The  customary  questions,  as  to  the  object  of  our  visit, 
having  been  replied  to,  they  commenced  by  informing 
me,  that  they  had  been  expecting  us  for  the  last  two  years; 
that  they  had  been  informed  by  a  Dutch  vessel  from 
Batavia,  in  1843,  that  the  '  Samarang  '  would  visit  them ; 
and  that  they  had  also  letters,  through  Loo-Choo,  from 
the  Meia-co-shimas,  giving  a  full  account  of  our  pro- 
ceedings in  those  islands,  plainly  telling  me,  however, 
"  that  it  was  forbidden  to  measure  the  land  in  Japan." 
That  the  reports  were  strongly  in  our  favour,  stating  that 
we  did  not  enter  their  towns,  or  offend  their  prejudices, 
but  conducted  ourselves  in  accordance  with  law  and  good 
manners,  and  this  had  warmed  the  Emperor's  breast. 
They  then  enquired  how  long  we  intended  to  remain,  and 
upon  being  informed  not  longer  than  three  days,  unless 
we  could  obtain  supplies,  they  not  only  expressed  them- 
selves disappointed,  but  it  was  evident  from  their  coun- 
tenances, that  some  arrangement  which  they  had  made, 


1845.]  PERMISSION  TO  LAND.  7 

would  be  disconcerted.  They  urged  my  remaining  fourteen 
days,  at  the  termination  of  which  period  orders  would 
arrive  from  court,  directing  the  mode  of  my  reception  at 
Nangasaki,  and  until  this  was  duly  notified,  I  could 
not  land  at  the  city,  but  might  enter  the  harbour  if  I 
wished.  As  the  thermometer  at  this  outer  anchorage 
stood  as  high  as  96°,  and  we  were  informed  that  it  was 
"dreadful  within  "!  I  preferred  my  present  position,  where 
I  could  enjoy  the  freedom  of  moving  about  in  the  boats 
in  pursuit  of  an  object  which  had  to  be  effected,  not- 
withstanding the  vigilance  of  their  numerous  guard 
boats.  The  chief  of  this  deputation,  a  very  prepossessing 
person,  of  about  55  years  of  age,  and  excessively  polite, 
informed  me,  that  although  we  could  not  ourselves  visit 
the  shore,  he  had  been  instructed  to  prepare  a  list  of 
any  articles  which  we  required,  either  for  the  ship  or  our- 
selves, and  it  was  fully  understood  that  we  were  to  pay 
for  them,  as  the  prices  were  named  for  every  article 
mentioned.  Fresh  meat,  vegetables,  water,  and  spars,  were 
noted  for  the  ship ;  and  fruit  and  some  minor  articles 
for  the  use  of  the  officers.  There  were  many  articles  of 
ornament  which  1  wished  to  purchase,  but  the  reply  was, 
"  if  you  wait  fourteen  days  you  will  have  them,  as  they 
must  be  sent  for ;  and  if  you  wish  any  particular  articles 
manufactured  for  you  (Japan  tables,  desks,  &c.,)  they  will 
be  ordered,  and  prepared  for  you  by  your  return  next 
year,  when  it  is  highly  probable  that  you  will  be  permitted 
to  land."  In  this  I  am  satisfied  they  were  sincere. 

One  pertinent  question  was  asked :  "  Why  did  the 
English  discontinue  trade  with  Japan  ?  "  This  I  was  not 
prepared  to  answer,  but  suggested  that  the  fault  might 


8  AFFAIR  OF  THE  *  PHAETON.'  [1845. 

lay  with  their  Emperor.  But  they  affirmed  that  he  was 
always  well-disposed  towards  the  English,  and  preferred 
their  friendship  until  the  departure  of  the  'Phaeton'. 
Upon  this  subject  they  appeared  disposed  to  enter  into 
some  explanation,  as  they  immediately  referred  to  papers 
which  they  had  with  them,  stating,  as  it  appeared, 
minutely,  the  occurrences  of  that  period,  but  which  our 
interpreter  either  did  not,  or  would  not,  understand.  The 
termination  of  this  affair  of  the  '  Phaeton '  appeared  to 
be,  that  Bullocks  were  demanded  for  the  ship,  but  were 
not  produced ;  that  men  landed  and  took  them  by  force, 
and  attacked  the  village  near  the  anchorage,  and  that  she 
sailed,  and  had  never  returned,  "  which  made  the  Em- 
peror's heart  very  sore."  The  Chief  in  command  was 
speared  for  his  neglect. 

At  this  interview  they  begged  very  hard  that  I  would 
desist  from  my  intention  of  remaining  on  shore  to  ob- 
serve the  stars  during  the  night ;  but  as  I  weh1  knew 
that  any  withdrawal  from  my  original  agreement,  would 
leave  me  open  to  a  charge  of  weakness  of  purpose,  I 
contended  firmly  on  its  necessity,  in  public,  but  gave  the 
secretary  to  understand,  that  provided  the  night  was 
clear,  I  might  possibly  get  all  I  required  before  midnight. 
They  very  good  humouredly  assured  me,  that  they  were 
satisfied  I  would  only  do  what  was  proper. 

After  the  departure  of  our  visitors,  I  returned  to  iny 
Observations,  on  the  island,  but  found  the  guard-boats' 
crews  rather  troublesome.  This,  continuing  to  increase 
towards  sun-set,  I  deemed  it  prudent  to  have  our  armed 
boats  in  attendance.  Shortly  after  commencing  my  Star 
Observations,  much  confusion,  and  violent  altercation 


1845.]  INTERRUPTION  OF  THE  PEOPLE.  9 

ensued,  the  guard  boats,  with  their  gaily-coloured  Ian- 
thorns,  exhibiting  the  arms  or  distinguishing  marks  of 
their  chiefs,  rapidly  increasing  in  number;  and  I  could 
now  perceive  that  some  important  chief  was  discussing 
the  authority  by  which  I  had  been  permitted  to  land, 
and  remain  at  night.  Had  I  remonstrated  against  these 
interruptions,  I  should,  perhaps,  have  been  included  in 
their  animosities,  I  thought  it  prudent,  therefore,  to  take 
more  notice  of  the  stars,  although  the  clamour  very 
much  disturbed  our  proceedings.  Several  motions  made 
towards  us,  were  of  a  suspicious  nature,  and  one  or  two 
addresses  in  Japanese  were,  doubtless,  very  gentlemanly 
invitations  to  return  to  the  ship,  but  my  mind  was  made 
up ;  I  understood  not  one  word  of  these  orations,  and 
pointing  to  the  heavens,  gave  them  to  understand  that 
my  attention  was  engaged  with  affairs  in  that  direction. 
To  say  that  I  was  easy,  would  not  be  correct,  and  to 
detail  the  various  calculations,  not  connected  with  Astro- 
nomy, which  were  rapidly  passing  through  my  brain, 
would  be  impossible.  The  principal  idea,  however,  was 
of  a  dramatic  character,  involving  the  figure  I  should 
assume  in  the  event  of  any  attempt  to  seize  me,  which 
some  coils  of  very  gentlemanly  white  cord,  as  introduced 
upon  our  stage,  gave  reason  to  suspect.  Giving  notice 
to  our  forces  to  be  upon  the  alert,  and  the  rising  of 
our  men  from  their  state  of  apparent  slumber,  seem- 
ing to  have  a  decided  effect  upon  the  most  noisy, 
they  saw  that  we  were  determined  to  maintain  our 
ground,  and,  probably,  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it 
might  be  as  well  to  remain  quiet.  Shortly  after  this, 
the  principal  Officers  having  arranged,  as  I  supposed, 


10  RETIRE  TO  THE  SHIP.  [1845. 

the  guard  for  the  night,  and  retiring  with  the  other 
rebel-quelling  Chiefs,  we  were  left  in  comparative  ease. 
By  midnight  I  had  obtained  sufficient  observations  to 
satisfy  me  for  the  position,  and  as  the  noise  had  ceased, 
and  with  it  the  excitement,  my  return  to  the  ship  could 
not  be  attributed  by  them  to  any  efforts  on  their  part ;  I 
therefore  retired  for  the  night,  not  even  followed  by  a  single 
guard  boat.  As  they  had  expressly  informed  me  "  that  it 
was  forbidden  to  measure  the  land  in  Japan,"  this  mandate 
did  not  extend  to  the  ship  or  the  sea ;  and  as  one  very 
stringent  note  of  our  Hydrographer  clearly  intimated  to  all 
Officers  holding  such  commands,  that  they  are  to  exercise 
their  judgment  in  such  emergencies,  and  that,  at  least, 
an  approximation  to  a  survey  of  the  works  of  a  strange 
place  should  be  made,  I  took  decided  measures  for 
effecting  this  object  on  the  first  instant  of  landing,  by 
simultaneous  observations  at  the  land  position  and  fore- 
top-mast  head.  This  afforded  me  some  main  triangles ; 
many  other  schemes  were  adopted  for  its  completion,  too 
tedious  to  mention,  but  the  sounding  part  was  very  well 
executed  by  the  boats  employed  dredging  for  shells, 
which  they  did  not  attempt  to  interrupt  after  they  were 
shown  some  of  the  objects  which  were  collected,  deeming 
us,  no  doubt,  great  simpletons.  As  these  boats  were 
commanded  by  Officers  who  had  complete  instructions, 
and  at  certain  signals  from  the  ship  had  their  positions  well 
fixed,  a  tolerable  survey  was  commenced,  to  be  finished 
by  the  ship  at  her  departure.  The  generality  of  my 
readers  may  not  feel  interest  in  such  matters,  but  I  have 
thought  it  advisable  to  introduce  these  observations,  to 
show  to  those  who  may  be  similarly  circumstanced, 


1845.]  SECOND  VISIT  OF  THE  CHIEFS.  11 

that  where  opportunity  offers  many  obstacles  may  be  dis- 
sipated by  a  little  ingenuity  of  thought  and  determination. 
On  the  second  visit  of  the  Chiefs,  the  day  following 
they  begged  very  hard  that  I  would  not  repeat  my  visit  to 
the  island,  and  as  I  had  obtained  all  the  observations 
that  were  absolutely  necessary,  I  consented,  after  consi- 
derable intercession,  to  forego  what  was  now  of  trifling 
importance.  But  in  doing  so,  it  was  not  without  the 
expression  of  my  wish,  to  render  our  stay  as  little  irksome 
to  my  friends  as  possible,  and  with  the  full  understanding 
that  it  was  a  concession  on  my  part,  rather  than  an  act  of 
obedience  to  their  mandate.  After  this  I  soon  found  a 
relaxation  of  formal  etiquette ;  the  ship  was  thronged  with 
strangers,  and  intercourse  on  all  sides  became  unre- 
strained. The  greater  part  of  the  Chiefs  begged  that  I 
would  write  my  name,  with  that  of  the  ship,  upon  their  fans, 
and  the  two  principal  presented  me  with  their  duplicates, 
upon  which  their  names  were  written  by  the  interpreter. 
Upon  some  pretence,  the  three  minor  authorities  were  sent 
to  examine  the  ship,  leaving  the  old  Chief  and  the  inter- 
preter, who  upon  the  cabin  being  cleared,  asked  many 
indifferent  questions,  which  probably  were  not  considered 
proper  in  the  presence  of  others.  He  informed  me  that 
they  were  perfectly  aware  of  what  had  taken  place  between 
us  and  the  Chinese,  but  he  could  not  conceive  how  they 
had  been  brought  to  pay  the  money ;  promises  he  could 
understand,  but  their  fulfilment  was  beyond  his  belief. 
When  assured  that  it  was  in  part  paid,  and  if  not  paid 
at  the  time  agreed  on,  that  we  should  continue  to  hold 
Chusan  and  Amoy,  he  exclaimed,  with  a  deep  sigh, 
"England  must  be  very  powerful."  lie  then  wished  to 


12  MUTUAL  POLITENESS.  [1845. 

examine  the  strength  of  my  arm,  by  feeling  the  muscles, 
afterwards  exhibiting  his,  observing,  "  I  am  a  larger  man 
but  I  am  very  weak,  the  English  are  ah1  strong  though 
not  large."  Two  of  my  boats  crew  were  sent  for,  as  if  to 
perform  some  duty  in  the  cabin ;  one  an  Englishman, 
about  six  feet  two,  and  strong  in  proportion,  the  other  a 
mulatto,  born  at  Nova  Scotia,  about  six  feet,  and  im- 
mensely powerful ;  the  latter  surprised  him  amazingly,  he 
was  also  one  of  the  handsomest  coloured  men  I  have  seen, 
and  a  great  favorite  on  board.  Our  visitor  then  minutely 
examined  every  part  of  the  cabin  and  furniture,  and 
repeatedly  observed,  that  if  I  wished  any  thing  made  for 
me,  that  he  would  have  it  executed  by  the  period  of  my 
return  the  ensuing  year ;  and,  frequently,  upon  asking  if 
they  had  articles  similar  to  those  noticed  by  him  in  my 
cabin,  he  replied,  wait  until  the  answer  from  the  Emperor 
arrives,  and  then  it  is  probable  that  you  will  be  able  to 
judge  for  yourself.  This  remark  was  repeatedly  made  by 
the  other  Chiefs,  and  also  by  the  secretary,  or  interpreter, 
when  alone  with  me.  I  am  therefore  satisfied  that  they 
believed  the  '  report ',  as  they  termed  it,  would  be  favour- 
able. Wishing  to  make  some  present  to  the  Chief, 
I  endeavoured  to  fix  his  attention  upon  some  object  about 
the  cabin,  but  he  evidently  avoided  the  subject.  As  they 
seemed  to  notice  the  tea  which  was  provided  for  them, 
and  which  was  of  the  finest  quality,  I  took  occasion  to 
offer  a  small  lOlb.  box,  of  some  which  I  had  purchased 
for  the  express  purpose.  Verbally  he  accepted  it,  and  it 
was  put  into  his  boat,  but  after  he  quitted,  another  boat 
was  sent  back  with  it,  possibly  because  it  had  not 
been  conveyed  thither  with  sufficient  secrecy,  for  I 


1845.]  LIBERAL  SUPPLY  OF  PROVISIONS.  13 

witnessed  the  perfect  assent  of  the  secretary  himself, 
before  it  was  sent  over  the  side.  It  is  very  difficult  to 
obtain  good  tea,  either  at  Japan  or  Loo-Choo,  and  at  both 
places  they  acknowledged  that  they  were  unable  to  obtain 
from  China  any  of  a  quality  similar  to  that  shown  to 
them,  although  they  had  the  same  character  of  tea. 

The  day  previous  to  our  departure  all  the  articles  required, 
were  brought  on  board  and  mustered  by  a  regular  list ; 
but  in  many  of  the  names,  they  had  made  mistakes,  na- 
tural in  all  probability  to  their  taste,  such  as  peaches  and 
apricots,  preserved  in  salt,  for  fruit.  The  small  spars 
(for  studding  sail  booms  &c.,)  were  of  cedar,  measuring 
about  ninety-six  feet  in  length,  by  fourteen  inches  at  the 
butt ;  a  large  quantity  of  very  fine  fish,  but  owing  to  the  heat 
of  the  climate  unfit  for  consumption,  hogs  and  vegetables 
for  the  crew.  Their  reason  for  not  giving  us  Bullocks, 
as  they  were  "  too  tired  "  or,  "  hard  worked,"  is  worth 
relating.  On  enquiring,  why  they  could  not  supply  these 
cattle,  instead  of  hogs,  they  observed  "  The  Japanese  do 
not  eat  Cows,  they  do  their  duty,  they  bear  calves,  they 
give  milk,  it  is  sinful  to  take  it,  they  require  it  to  rear 
their  calves,  and  because  they  do  this  they  are  not  allowed 
to  work.  The  Bulls  do  their  work ;  they  labour  at  the 
plough,  they  get  thin,  you  cannot  eat  them,  it  is  not  just 
to  kill  a  beast  which  does  its  duty,  but  the  hogs  are 
indolent,  lazy,  do  no  work,  they  are  proper  for  food."  * 
Our  specimens  were  probably  of  this  breed,  they  did  not 
appear  like  working  animals,  but,  on  the  contrary,  over- 
whelmed with  their  own  fat,  and  weighing  about  1501b. 

*  Probably  it  was  on  the  ground  they  could  not  work,  that  one  of  the 
Djogouns  ordered  all  the  old  men,  women,  and  cripples,  to  be  destroyed. 


14  EDUCATION  AT  NANGASAKI.  [1845. 

Many  questions  were  put  relative  to  the  Dutch  on 
Desima,  and  as  to  whether  any  of  their  vessels  were  in 
port ;  but  all  questions  relative  to  them  were  evaded ; 
nor  did  we  see  or  hear  of  any  belonging  to  that  factory. 
To  one  observation  which  I  made,  relative  to  the  per- 
mission which  we  were  informed,  that  the  Dutch  occa- 
sionally obtained  for  a  day's  range  in  the  country,  it 
was  answered,  simply  "  The  English  will  obtain  more  if 
they  are  admitted  to  land."  They  were  extremly  inquisi- 
tive as  to  the  Frenchmen  at  Loo-Choo,  and  distinctly 
asked  if  one  was  a  Catholic  priest.  I  understood  the 
question  by  the  gesture,  and  before  my  interpreter  ex- 
pounded it,  desired  him  to  say  that  we  neither  interfered 
with  the  affairs  of  Dutch  or  French,  turning  the  tables  in  this 
instance,  upon  their  own  evasions  relative  to  the  former. 

Refering  to  their  conduct  on  the  occasion  of  the  visit 
of  the  '  Morrison ',  to  return  the  Japanese  wrecked  upon 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  they  dismissed  the  question  very 
summarily,  and,  as  I  thought,  with  something  approaching 
to  impatience,  observing  "  She  attempted  clandestinely  to 
break  through  our  laws,  landed  contrary  to  law  as  a  smug- 
gler ;  and  that  the  same  practice,  as  that  followed  with  re- 
spect to  the  '  Morrison/  was  observed  towards  the  Chinese. 
They  had  sent  back  Japanese,  sent  by  the  Emperor 
of  China  ".  He  further  remarked,  "  China  has  her  laws ; 
it  is  death  for  a  Chinese  to  quit  the  Empire,  so  it  is  with 
Japarf.  The  difference  between  us  consists  in  our  en- 
forcing the  laws  of  Japan  ;  those  of  China  are  insigificant, 
and  constantly  infringed  ". 

They  have  a  college  at  Nangasaki,  where  the  youth  in 
addition  to  general  acquirements,  are  taught  the  Foreign 
Languages,  induing  Dutch  and  English,  and  amongst 


1845.]  FLIGHT  OF  STUDENTS.  15 

our  visitors  were  many  who  spoke  Dutch,  and  wished 
much  to  find  persons  on  board  who  could  converse  in  that 
language,  but  this  the  authorities  did  not  approve  of,  and 
as  we  had  but  one,  and  he  understood  but  little,  he  was 
kept  out  of  the  way. 

One  of  the  young  students  understood  English  slightly, 
could  pronounce  a  few  English  words,  and  readily  caught 
at  every  expression,  recording  it  in  his  note  book.  He  had 
proceeded  so  far  as  to  write  several  of  the  names  of  the 
Officers  in  English,  when  it  was  probably  noticed  by  some 
of  the  authorities  ;  and  as  my  readers  have,  doubtless,  fre- 
quently noticed  a  dead  silence  amongst  a  collection  of  noisy 
sparrows,  followed  by  a  sudden  chirrup  and  flight,  with- 
out any  visible  cause,  so  it  happened  with  these  young 
students ;  who,  without  any  apparent  authority,  hurried 
off"  very  suddenly  to  the  boats.  I  strongly  suspect  that 
many  of  our  visitors  were  persons  of  high  rank  in  dis- 
guise. The  greater  number  wore  two  swords,  denoting 
gentlemen  of  consideration ;  and  from  the  devices  or 
crests  (in  solid  gold),  noticed  upon  the  hilts  of  those 
worn  by  one  or  two  rather  distingue  individuals,  and 
which  I  was  assured  were  armorial  bearings,  and  duly 
acknowledged  amongst  themselves,  I  was  induced  to 
draw  comparisons  to  similar  outlines  of  the  badges  on 
the  shoulders  of  the  attendants,  who  were  in  their  turn 
designated  as  the  retinue  belonging  to  persons  of  high 
rank.  Coupling  their  emblems  with  those  on  the  swords, 
and  the  evident  connection  of  master  and  follower,  I  had 
travelled  rather  too  fast  in  my  chain  of  reasoning,  forgetting 
that  discovery  would  very  soon  leave  me  deserted ;  and 
such  was  the  result  of  my  asking,  if  the  person  behind 
my  nearest  friend  was  one  of  his  retainers.  They  did  not 


16  LIBERALITY  OF  THE  GOVERNMENT.  [1845. 

deny  it  but  shook  their  heads,  and  shortly  after  they  stole 
away,  leaving  me  with  the  old  Chief.  As  this  was  our 
last  day  and  the  boats  would  continue  to  come  until  a 
late  hour  with  wood,  water,  and  other  supplies,  the  old 
Chief  remained  until  8  o'clock,  and  on  retiring  begged 
that  I  would  consent  to  receive  him  at  2  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  converse  until  daylight,  "  such  being  the 
custom  of  the  country."  To  this  I  consented ;  the  Chief 
departing,  but  leaving  the  secretary  to  see  every  thing 
complete  before  he  quitted.  It  was  clearly  understood 
that  the  arrangement  for  payment  was  to  take  place  im- 
mediately the  catalogue  was  found  to  be  correct ;  but  the 
secretary  now  declared,  "  that  it  was  by  an  express  order 
of  the  Government,  that  every  thing  had  been  provided 
free  of  cost,  and  that  it  was  the  custom  of  the  country. 
If  a  Japan  ship  goes  to  your  country,  I  am  sure  you  would 
do  the  same ;  the  country  bears  the  expence,  it  does  not 
come  out  of  the  purse  of  any  individual.  Finally,  I  can- 
not act  in  the  matter  you  wish,  if  I  should  even  name  it,  I 
should  be  disgraced,  perhaps  lose  my  life."  Drawing  me 
to  the  taffarel,  where  no  one  but  himself  and  our  inter- 
preter, could  witness  the  conversation,  he  freely  acquainted 
me  with  the  friendly  disposition  of  the  Chiefs  and  great 
people  of  Nangasaki,  towards  the  English;  and  their  hope, 
that  on  our  return  the  High  Councillors  would  consent 
to  our  admission,  acknowledging  freely  that  it  was  within 
their  province  entirely,  (not  the  Emperor's),  and  that  no 
man  could  form  any  conception  as  to  the  view  they  would 
take.  All  he  knew  was,  that  kindly  expressions  had 
transpired  amongst  the  great  Chiefs  about  Nangasaki, 
and  they  were  generally  forerunners  of  good.  Relative 
to  the  visit  of  the  Chief,  he  would  probably  come  alone, 


1845.]  COURTESY  OF  THE  JAPANESE.  17 

or  be  attended  by  three  or  four,  including  himself,  and 
that  they  would  take  tea  and  sweetmeats.  Directing  the 
necessary  preparations  to  be  made,  I  took  my  nap,  rising 
at  two,  and  waiting  with  considerable  anxiety  until  day- 
light. No  one  came;  but  the  heavy  rains  which  fell 
probably  prevented  the  visit,  which  1  construed  into  an 
official  act,  of  seeing  all  correct  up  to  the  moment  of 
sailing. 

There  is  one  peculiar  feature  attending  this  visit.  On 
all  former  occasions  that  Japan  has  been  visited  by 
strangers,  an  edict  has  been  issued  forbidding  any  return. 
In  this  instance  the  promise  to  re-visit  Nangasaki  was 
received  with  apparent  satisfaction,  and  the  Chiefs  (and 
it  extended  to  the  young  men  of  family)  expressed  the 
hope  that  they  might  be  able  to  show  me  their  houses, 
and  introduce  me  to  their  families.  They  further  re- 
quested, that  I  would  bring  with  me  Cow-pock  matter, 
Sulphate  of  Quinine,  Ipecacuanha,  Nux  vomica,  and  other 
medicines,  engaging  on  their  part  to  have  several  little 
commisions  executed  for  me.  All  these  communications 
were  privately  made  in  my  cabin,  but  duly  committed  to 
paper ;  I  am,  therefore,  far  from  believing  in  such  con- 
summate hypocrisy,  as  to  imagine  for  an  instant  that  any 
deceit  was  practised,  a  crime  in  their  code  (as  regards 
invitation  to  the  return  of  foreigners)  which  might,  in 
the  event  of  hostility  resulting,  be  attended  with  risk  to 
their  heads,  or  rather  bowels,  the  crucial  incision  in  that 
region  being  the  only  honourable  mode  of  death  per- 
mitted. The  following  account  of  this  torture  is  from 
M.  Titsingh's  '  Illustations  of  Japan,  &c.' 

"  Mention  is  so  frequently  made  in  this  volume  and  in 

VOL.  II.  C 


18  TITSINOH'S  ACCOUNT  [1845. 

other  works  on  Japan,  of  the  privilege  enjoyed  by  certain 
classes  of  the  inhabitants,  of  being  their  own  execu- 
tioners, by  ripping  up  the  belly,  that  the  reader  will  not 
be  displeased  to  find  here  some  particulars  respecting 
this  singular  custom. 

"All  military  men,  the  servants  of  the  Djogoun,  and 
persons  holding  civil  offices  under  the  government,  are 
bound  when  they  have  committed  any  crime  to  rip  them- 
selves up,  but  not  till  they  have  received  an  order  from  the 
court  to  that  effect ;  for,  if  they  were  to  anticipate  this 
order,  their  heirs  would  run  the  risk  of  being  deprived  of 
their  places  and  property.  For  this  reason,  all  the  officers 
of  government  are  provided,  in  addition  to  their  usual 
dress,  aud  that  which  they  put  on  in  case  of  fire,  with  a 
suit  necessary  on  such  an  occasion,  which  they  carry  with 
them  whenever  they  travel  from  home.  It  consists  of  a 
white  robe  and  habit  of  ceremony,  made  of  hempen  cloth, 
and  without  armorial  bearings.  The  outside  of  the  house 
is  hung  with  white  stuffs ;  for  the  palaces  of  the  great, 
and  the  places  at  which  they  stop  by  the  way  when  going 
to  or  returning  from  Yeddo,  are  hung  with  coloured  stuffs 
on  which  their  arms  are  embroidered- — a  privilege  enjoyed 
also  by  the  Dutch  envoy. 

"  As  soon  as  the  order  of  the  court  has  been  commu- 
nicated to  the  culprit,  he  invites  his  intimate  friends  for 
the  appointed  day,  and  regales  them  with  zakki.  After 
they  have  drunk  together  some  time,  he  takes  leave  of 
them ;  and  the  order  of  the  court  is  then  read  to  him 
once  more.  Among  the  great,  this  reading  takes  place 
in  presence  of  their  secretary,  and  the  inspector:  the 
person  who  performs  the  principal  part  in  this  tragic 


1845.]  OF  THE  CRUCIAL  INCISION.  19 

scene  then  addresses  a  speech  or  compliment  to  the  com- 
pany ;  after  which  he  inclines  his  head  towards  the  mat, 
draws  his  sabre  and  cuts  himself  with  it  across  the  belly, 
penetrating  to  the  bowels.  One  of  his  confidential  ser- 
vants, who  takes  his  place  behind  him,  then  strikes  off 
his  head.  Such  as  wish  to  display  superior  courage, 
after  the  cross  cut  inflict  a  second,  longitudinally,  and 
then  a  third,  in  the  throat.  No  disgrace  is  attached  to 
such  a  death ;  and  the  son  succeeds  to  his  father's  place, 
as  we  see  by  several  examples  in  the  '  Memoirs  of  the 
Djogouns.' 

"  When  a  person  is  conscious  of  having  committed 
some  crime,  and  apprehensive  of  being  thereby  disgraced, 
he  puts  an  end  to  his  own  life  to  spare  his  family  the 
ruinous  consequences  of  judicial  proceedings.  This 
practice  is  so  common,  that  scarcely  any  notice  is  taken 
of  such  an  event.  The  sons  of  all  the  people  of  quality 
exercise  themselves  in  their  youth,  for  five  or  six  years, 
with  a  view  that  they  may  perform  the  operation,  in  case 
of  need,  with  gracefulness  and  dexterity ;  and  they  take 
as  much  pains  to  acquire  this  accomplishment  as  youth 
among  us  do  to  become  elegant  dancers,  or  skilful  horse- 
men :  hence  the  profound  contempt  of  death  which  they 
imbibe,  even  in  their  earliest  years.  This  disregard  of 
death,  which  they  prefer  to  the  slightest  disgrace,  extends 
to  the  very  lowest  class  among  the  Japanese." 

The  dress  of  the  superior  class  which  visited  the 
'  Samarang ',  nearly  resembled  that  of  Loo-Choo,  being 
composed  of  very  loose  trowsers  and  shirt  of  fine  grass- 
cloth,  with  a  fine  blue  and  white  striped  tunic  of  the  same 
material,  but  stouter,  the  whole  confined  by  a  broad  sash 

c2 


20  DRESS  OF  JAPANESE  VISITORS.  [1845. 

at  the  waist,  in  which  two  swords  were  inserted.  The 
legs  were  covered  with  very  neat  stockings,  of  a  substance 
very  much  resembling  our  white  jean,  the  seam  being  on 
the  anterior  and  posterior  parts ;  a  very  slight  sandal  is 
worn,  but  when  they  found  themselves  at  ease  in  the  cabin, 
these  were  thrown  aside  and  they  preferred  the  eastern 
habit  of  drawing  their  legs  up  under  them.  The  head  is 
shaven  from  the  temples  backward  on  each  side,  denuding 
a  horse-shoe  space  in  front,  with  a  central  lock,  advancing 
slightly  before  the  crown.  The  hair  is  very  neatly  worked 
back  on  all  sides  with  some  oleaginous  compound,  and 
secured  by  a  knot  behind ;  no  hat  or  other  covering  for  the 
head  was  noticed,  the  fan  or  umbrella  being  mostly  used 
to  intercept  the  sun's  rays.  Their  swords  deserve  especial 
notice,  and  amongst  themselves  their  degrees  of  rank  or 
importance  are  typified  by  the  devices  of  the  hilt.  The 
larger  one  is  about  two  feet  six  inches  in  length  and 
slightly  curved,  the  hilt  occupying  about  nine  or  ten  inches 
of  this  length,  and  affording  an  impression  that  it  might 
be  intended  to  be  used  with  two  hands.  It  has  a  circular 
cupped  guard  piece  of  metal,  about  two  inches  in  diameter 
where  the  blade  is  inserted,  but  more  for  ornament  than 
use ;  the  knob  is  also  of  metal,  probably  gold.  The  most 
important  part  appeared  to  be  the  armorial  device  in  gold, 
which  is  placed  upon  the  outer  side  of  the  hilt  very  neatly 
worked  over  with  braiding,  apparently  of  fine  hair,  so  as 
still  to  admit  of  its  being  clearly  distinguished.  This 
they  appeared  to  conceal  from  our  scutiny,  and  it  was 
owing  to  my  tracing  the  connexion  between  a  young  man 
very  genteelly  clad,  and  his  follower  having  the  outline 
of  this  same  badge,  worked  on  the  shoulder  of  his  mantle, 


1845.]  SWORDS  AND  BOATS.  21 

and  who  attended  him  closely,  that  my  party  became 
suddenly  thinned.  The  scabbard  is  of  shagreen;  the 
smaller  sword  is  nearly  a  fac  simile  but  with  a  shorter 
hilt.  They  are  very  handsome  articles  of  dress,  and  to 
judge  from  one  which  I  saw  drawn,  of  excellent  workman- 
ship. When  I  mention  the  word  drawn,  my  readers  must 
not  suppose  that  it  belonged  to  any  of  the  superior  Chiefs, 
as  it  would  be  a  great  breach  of  etiquette,  almost  an  insult, 
to  show  a  naked  sword ;  but  it  was  amongst  some  of  the 
younger  branches  in  communication  with  officers  between 
decks.  The  lower  orders  or  labouring  classes,  appear  to 
be  of  a  larger,  or  more  lengthy,  build,  and  from  their 
exertions,  which  we  witnessed  in  their  boats,  of  consi- 
derable power.  Their  boats  are  very  neatly  built,  of  good 
model,  very  sharp  and  swift.  An  arrangement  similar  to 
our  river  barges,  or  a  light  housing,  is  adapted  to  them, 
which  completely  shelters  the  inmates  from  the  weather, 
carrying,  conveniently,  about  twenty  persons.  As  this 
construction  prevents  the  use  of  oars,  three  large  sculls 
are  adapted  on  each  side,  abaft  the  beam,  and  the  impulse 
is  so  great  that  their  velocity  equalled  that  of  our  boats, 
generally  reckoned  swift.  The  general  length  of  these 
boats  I  should  imagine  to  vary  between  thirty  and  forty 
feet,  the  extreme  beam  and  bearing  being  abaft  the  centre, 
forming  a  very  sharp  wedge  to  the  stem,  which  being 
much  raised,  as  in  the  Spanish  boats,  gives  them  a  very 
rakish  appearance.  The  official  boats  carry  two  small 
banners  on  the  quarters  which  denote  their  office,  and 
lanthorns,  with  devices,  by  night.  No  person  is  permitted 
to  move,  by  sea  or  land,  at  night,  without  this  accompani- 
ment, and  upon  the  visits  of  the  officers  by  day,  they  were 


ANCHORAGE  AND  FORTIFICATIONS.  [1845 

preceded  by  their  lanthorn  bearer.  The  crews  of  these 
boats  are  dressed  in  smock  frocks,  with  the  badge  of 
office  worked  on  the  shoulder,  and  glazed  or  japanned 
hats  similar  to  those  used  by  firemen.  But  those  who 
labour  at  the  sculls  and  probably  are  slaves,  wear  nothing 
except  a  pair  of  short  trowsers,  reaching  about  one  third 
down  the  leg.  Their  hats,  when  they  are  covered,  appear 
to  be  composed  of  broad  leaves  of  the  Palmetto,  woven, 
and  in  some  instances,  of  a  frame  work  covered  with 
paper,  prepared  with  the  paste  of  the  sea- weed  Agal  Agal. 
Recurring  to  the  anchorage  and  the  appearance  of  the 
fortifications  as  we  entered,  I  shall  now  proceed  to  des- 
cribe them.  The  outer  roads  of  Nangasaki,  or  that 
denoted  by  the  anchorage  off  the  Cavallos  Islands,  is 
formed  by  the  two  thus  named  on  the  west  and  south,  a 
small  island  in  the  centre  of  the  channel,  leading  to  Nan- 
gasaki on  the  east,  and  by  a  small  chain  of  islets  on  the 
north,  leaving  a  space  of  about  two  miles  in  aperture  open 
to  the  north-west.  All  these  points  are  more  or  less 
fortified.  The  Cavallos  Islands  are  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  in  elevation,  and  are  disjoined 
from  each  other  and  the  main  by  channels,  of  about  one 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  width.  A  few  brass  guns,  apparently 
nine-  or  twelve-pounders,  are  mounted  on  open  terraces, 
commanding  the  anchorage,  but  in  the  event  of  hostilities 
would  prove  rather  exciting  to  our  mischief-loving  tars,  who 
would  desire  no  better  amusement  than  tumbling  them 
into  the  sea,  or  turning  them  upon  the  inland  batteries.  As 
it  would  be  impolitic  to  play  a  bold  game  without  closely 
computing  the  force  of  the  opponent,  so  did  we  distinctly 
scan  every  line  of  the  country  we  were  approaching ;  and 


1845.J  RELATION  WITH  JAPAN.  23 

when  the  order  for  letting  go  the  anchor  was  given,  it 
was  with  the  full  conviction  that  the  '  Samarang '  was  in 
a  condition  to  resent  any  insult  which  might,  by  mistake, 
be  offered  to  the  Flag.  By  the  kindness  of  my  friend 
Dr.  Bridgman,  of  the  American  Mission  at  Canton,  I  had 
been  supplied  with  the  voyages  of  the  'Himaleh'  and 
'  Morrison ',  and  their  contents  had  been  closely  scanned, 
and  duly  weighed,  long  before  sighting  the  shores  of 
Japan ;  and  having  been  further  warned  by  Mr.  Gutzlaff, 
the  interpreter  at  the  visit  of  the  '  Morrison,'  that  I  must 
expect  treachery  and  be  prepared  to  punish  it,  iny  readers 
will  understand  the  semi-hostile,  or  cautious,  feelings  in 
which  I  have  indulged.  With  no  ostensible  ground  for 
my  visit,  beyond  the  pursuit  of  Science  (more  particularly 
that  relating  to  Magnetic  Observations),  whilst  antici- 
pating the  chances  of  repulse,  with  the  paramount  neces- 
sity for  maintaining  the  credit  of  our  Hag,  my  feelings 
were  of  a  somewhat  complicated  nature.  Should  hosti- 
lities unfortunately  take  place,  I  was  answerable  to  the 
Government,  as  my  visit  might  possibly  be  interpreted 
as  seeking  them ;  and  if  surprised  in  this  dilemma,  one 
line  of  duty  required,  that  I  should,  as  the  Captain  of  a 
British  Ship  of  War,  support  the  character  of  the  Flag ; 
whilst  another,  and  very  opposite  line  of  policy,  was  em- 
bodied in  my  specific  instructions ;  which  enjoined  that  I 
should  on  all  occasions  of  scientific  duty,  abstain  from 
force.  Insult  to  the  Flag  was,  therefore,  the  only  plea 
which  warranted  active  service ;  however,  I  felt  confident 
that  by  firmly  maintaining  my  measures,  I  should  prevent 
any  exhibition  of  this  nature.  Had  we  been  called  into  ac- 
tion, I  foresaw  without  apprehension  that  the  '  Samarang ' 


24  BATTERIES.  [1845. 

• 

in  conjunction  with  her  boat  force,  was  in  a  condition  to 
capture  the  two  Cavallos  Islands,  and  from  the  northern, 
supported  by  the  ship,  obtain  possession  of  two  batteries 
on  the  right,  which  commanded  the  lower  forts  opposite, 
as  well  as  the  harbour.  We  counted  about  twenty-four 
guns  on  the  summit  of  the  northern  Cavallos,  which  could 
be  brought  to  bear  on  the  right-hand  battery,  and  as  they 
occupied  about  the  same  level  as  the  batteries  alluded  to, 
it  would  have  been  an  easy  matter,  by  charging  them 
with  English  powder,  and  serving  them  with  British 
seamen,  to  have  become  masters  of  their  defences.  One 
such  lesson,  rapidly  taught,  the  guns  spikecl,  or  with- 
drawn for  embarkation,  "with  a  disposition  to  renew 
friendly  intercourse ",  would  have  put  an  end  to  any 
further  symptoms  of  hostility.  All  this  it  may  be  said, 
reads  very  smoothly  on  paper,  but  we  considered  their 
batteries  themselves  little  better  than  the  substance  on 
which  these  observations  are  recorded.  The  guns  I  had 
every  reason  to  believe  to  be  of  sound  workmanship  and 
of  bronze,  excellent  weapons  worked  by  competent  men, 
but  with  their  miserable  handling  and  from  our  knowledge 
of  their  execrably  bad  powder,  incapable  of  throwing  an 
effective  shot  at  half  range,  and  that  a  plunging  one ;  we 
were  therefore  fully  justified  in  under-rating  them.  I  can 
only  compare  these  weapons  of  defence,  to  a  few  field 
pieces  pointed  through  a  drying  yard,  and  worked  by  old 
women.  It  will  hardly  be  credited  in  the  year  1845 
that  any  place  of  defence  could  have  been  so  constituted ; 
the  only  cover,  or  breastwork,  to  this  ordnance  was  com- 
posed of  sheets  of  calico  three  widths  in  depth,  and  forty 
yards  in  length,  each  stretched  on  pikes,  erected  vertically, 


1845.]  NEW  ACQUAINTANCES.  25 

at  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  asunder,  and  having,  at  the  cus- 
tomary distances  for  embrasures,  certain  devices  in  black, 
to  denote  the  regiment  to  which  they  belonged;  and  which 
certainly  presented  a  most  picturesque  as  well  as  warlike 
appearance  in  the  distance,  such  as  that  of  white-washed 
batteries,  with  gay  banners  at  the  extremities.  As  many 
regiments  were  collected  on  our  arrival,  these,  joining 
their  lines,  gave  a  most  formidable  aspect  to  the  harbour 
approaches ;  but  with  the  assistance  of  good  telescopes 
their  absurdity  was  at  once  manifest,  many  being  very 
deficient  in  men,  and  entirely  wanting  in  ordnance. 

Thus  far  for  the  pageant  before  us,  which  lasted  in 
effect  for  a  day,  or  until  they  had  asertained  how  our 
pulses  beat;  that  determined,  they  were  soon  left  to 
flutter  alone  in  the  breeze,  most  of  their  Officers  thinking 
it  better  to  have  a  closer  inspection  of  the  ship  from  their 
boats.  On  approaching,  some  were  observed  to  be  hand- 
somely accoutred,  two  in  particular  arrested  my  attention; 
they  were  dressed  in  japanned  helmets  decorated  with 
gilded  figures,  a  jacket  of  blue  silk  embroidery,  and  vest 
in  imitation  of  silver  scales,  with  loose  white  trowsers, 
and  two  swords.  I  requested  the  secretary  to  invite 
them  on  board,  and  motioned  them  to  come.  In  reply  to 
this  they  bowed  most  courteously  and  waved  the  finger, 
implying  that  they  were  forbidden.  The  interpreter 
informed  me,  that  they  belonged  to  one  of  the  northern 
regiments,  and  as  their  language  differed  from  that  spoken 
at  Nangasaki,  they  would  not  be  able  to  converse  with 
•him.  They  were  about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  elegantly 
formed,  about  five  feet  eight  inches  in  height  and  fair  as 
any  European,  with  small  dark  moustache,  totally  unlike 


26  POLITENESS.  [1845. 

any  of  the  Japanese  with  whom  we  had  hitherto  commu- 
nicated. The  interpreter  admitted  that  they  were  people 
of  rank.  As  a  proof  that  no  thoughts  of  hostility  were  en- 
tertained, by  them,  we  noticed  shortly  after  our  arrival  that 
having  laid  all  their  guns  for  the  '  Samarang '  they  quitted 
them;  and  nothing  which  could  be  construed  into  anything 
approximating  to  slight,  such  as  pointing  guns,  or  other 
hostile  preparations,  was  noticed.  Every  thing  was  con- 
ducted in  the  most  polished  manner  and  with  the  utmost 
kindness.  Being  perfectly  aware  of  their  laws  upon  the 
subject,  I  had  no  idea  when  at  Nangasaki  of  requesting 
permission  to  land,  because  I  did  not  think  it  wise  to  risk 
a  refusal.  Indeed  I  gave  them  to  understand  most 
clearly,  that  I  would  not  land  unless  requested  to  do  so, 
and  without  the  restriction  demanded  of  the  Dutch; 
impressing  upon  them  "  that  our  swords  were  part  of  our 
uniform,  and  without  them  we  could  not  feel  our  capacity 
as  British  Officers."  All  this  they  comprehended,  and 
bowed  with  great  humility  in  acquiescence.  Respecting 
their  military  preparation  I  was  told  in  confidence  by  the 
secretary,  that  as  the  Chief  who  commanded  at  the  period 
of  the  Phaeton's  visit,  was  speared  for  his  neglect,  it 
was  incumbent  to  take  every  precaution,  for  their  own 
safety  as  well  as  credit ;  and  for  that  reason  (and,  probably, 
under  some  fear  arising  out  of  our  transactions  in  China), 
all  the  troops  in  the  neighbourhood  were  summoned, 
though  many  had  gone  home  since  our  arrival. 

The  following  remarks  from  Titsingh  will  probably 
prove  interesting  in  this  place. 

"On  the  first  arrival  of  the  Dutch  in  1609,  the 
Japanese  were  allowed  to  visit  foreign  countries.  Their 


1845.]  THE  JAPANESE.  27 

ships,  though  built  on  the  plan  of  the  Chinese  junks, 
boldly  defied  the  fury  of  tempests.  Their  merchants 
were  scattered  over  the  principal  countries  of  India ;  they 
were  not  deficient  either  in  expert  mariners  or  adven- 
turous traders.  In  a  country  where  the  lower  classes 
cannot  gain  a  subsistence  but  by  assiduous  labour, 
thousands  of  Japanese  were  disposed  to  seek  their  fortune 
abroad,  not  so  much  by  the  prospect  of  gain,  as  by  the 
certainty  of  being  enabled  to  gratify  their  curiosity  with 
the  sight  of  numberless  objects  that  were  wholly  un- 
known to  them. 

"  This  state  of  things  formed  bold  and  experienced 
sailors,  and  at  the  same  time  soldiers,  not  surpassed  in 
bravery  by  those  of  the  most  warlike  nations  of  India. 

"  The  Japanese,  accustomed  from  their  infancy  to  hear 
the  accounts  of  the  heroic  achievements  of  their  ancestors, 
to  receive  at  that  early  age  their  first  instruction  in  those 
books  which  record  their  exploits,  and  to  imbibe,  as  it 
were,  with  their  mother's  milk  the  intoxicating  love  of 
glory,  made  the  art  of  war  their  favourite  study.  Such 
an  education  has,  in  all  ages,  trained  up  heroes ;  it  ex- 
cited in  the  Japanese  that  pride  which  is  noticed  by  all 
the  writers  who  have  treated  of  them,  as  the  distinguish- 
ing characteristic  of  the  whole  nation. 

"  Having  a  keen  sense  of  the  slightest  insult,  which 
cannot  be  washed  away  but  with  blood,  they  are  the 
more  disposed  to  treat  one  another  in  their  mutual  inter- 
course with  the  highest  respect.  Among  them  suicide, 
when  they  have  incurred  disgrace  or  humiliation,  is  a 
general  practice,  which  spares  them  the  ignominy  of 
being  punished  by  others,  and  confers  on  a  son  a  right 


28  HABIT  OF  SUICIDE.  [1845- 

to  succeed  to  his  father's  post.  As  with  us,  the  graceful 
performance  of  certain  bodily  exercises,  is  considered  an 
accomplishment  essential  to  a  liberal  education,  so  among 
them,  it  is  indispensably  necessary  for  all  those  who,  by 
their  birth  or  rank,  aspire  to  dignities,  to  understand  the 
art  of  ripping  themselves  up  like  gentlemen.  To  attain 
a  due  proficiency  in  this  operation,  which  requires  a 
practice  of  many  years,  is  a  principal  point  in  the  educa- 
tion of  youth.  In  a  country  where  sometimes  a  whole 
family  is  involved  in  the  misconduct  of  one  of  its 
members,  and  where  the  life  of  every  individual  fre- 
quently depends  on  the  error  of  a  moment,  it  is  abso- 
lutely requisite  to  have  the  apparatus  for  suicide  con- 
stantly at  hand,  for  the  purpose  of  escaping  disgrace 
which  they  dread  much  more  than  death  itself.  The 
details  of  the  permanent  troubles  recorded  in  their  annals, 
and  the  accounts  of  the  first  conquests  of  the  Dutch  in 
India,  furnish  the  most  complete  proofs  of  the  courage  of 
the  Japanese.  The  law,  which  has  since  forbidden  all 
emigration,  and  closes  their  country  against  strangers, 
may  have  taken  away  the  food  which  nourished  their  in- 
trepidity, but  has  not  extinguished  it :  any  critical  event 
would  be  sufficient  to  kindle  their  martial  sentiments, 
which  danger  would  but  serve  to  inflame,  and  the  citizen 
would  soon  be  transformed  into  a  hero. 

"  The  extirpation  of  the  Catholic  religion,  and  the  ex- 
pulsion of  the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese,  caused  dreadful 
commotions  in  Japan  for  a  number  of  years.  The  san- 
guinary war  which  we  (the  Dutch)  carried  on  with  those 
two  nations,  who  were  too  zealous  for  the  propagation  of 
Christianity,  and  the  difference  of  our  religion,  procured 


1845.]  INTERCOURSE  WITH  THE  DUTCH.  29 

us  the  liberty  of  trading  there,  to  the  exclusion  of  all 
the  other  nations  of  Europe.  The  Japanese,  perceiving 
that  incessant  seditions  were  to  be  apprehended  from  the 
secret  intrigues  of  the  Roman  Catholics,  and  the  numerous 
converts  made  by  them,  found,  at  length,  that  in  order 
to  strike  at  the  root  of  the  evil,  they  ought  to  apply  to  the 
Dutch,  whose  flag  was  then  the  terror  of  the  Indian  seas. 
"The  bold  arrest  of  Governor  Nuyts,  at  Fayoan,  in 
1630,  showed  them  that  the  point  of  honour  might  every 
moment  involve  them  in  quarrels  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
venging the  insults  which  their  subjects  might  suffer  in 
foreign  countries  or  at  sea.  The  decree  of  the  Djogoun, 
which  confiscated  the  arms  of  the  people  of  Sankan, 
wounded  the  vanity  of  the  Japanese.  Numbers  of  male- 
factors, to  avoid  the  punishment  due  to  their  crimes, 
turned  pirates,  and  chiefly  infested  the  coasts  of  China, 
the  Government  of  which  made  frequent  complaints  on 
the  subject  to  that  of  Japan.  The  nine  Japanese  vessels, 
then  trading  with  licenses  from  the  Djogoun,  were  to  be 
furnished  with  Dutch  passports  and  flags,  in  case  of  their 
falling  in  either  with  Chinese  corsairs,  or  with  our  ships 
cruizing  against  those  of  the  Spaniards  of  Manila  and  the 
Portuguese  at  Macao.  The  residence  of  Japanese  in  foreign 
countries,  rendered  their  Government  apprehensive  that 
it  would  never  be  able  entirely  to  extirpate  popery. 
These  various  considerations  induced  the  Djogoun,  in  the 
twelfth  year  of  the  nengo  quanje  (1631),  to  decree  the 
penalty  of  death  against  every  Japanese  who  should  quit 
the  country;  at  the  same  time  the  most  efficacious 
measures  were  taken  in  regard  to  the  construction  of 
vessels.  The  dimensions  were  so  regulated,  that  it  be- 


30  ENGLISH  IN  JAPAN.  [1845. 

canie  impossible  to  quit  the  coast  without  inevitable 
danger. 

"  Cut  off  from  all  other  nations,  encompassed  by  a  sea 
liable  to  hurricanes,  not  less  tremendous  for  their  sud- 
denness than  their  violence,  and  thereby  secured  from 
the  continuance  of  hostile  fleets  in  these  parts,  the  Ja- 
panese gradually  turned  their  whole  attention  to  their 
domestic  affairs.  Their  respect  for  the  Dutch  by  degrees 
diminished.  A  mortal  blow  was  given  to  our  importance 
in  this  country  by  the  removal  of  our  establishment  from 
Firando  to  Nangasaki  in  1640,  the  chief  objects  of  which 
were,  1 .  To  afford  some  relief  to  the  inhabitants  of  that 
imperial  city,  who,  since  the  expulsion  of  the  Spaniards 
and  Portuguese,  were  daily  becoming  more  and  more 
impoverished ;  2.  To  keep  us  more  dependent,  by  placing 
us  under  the  superintendence  of  their  Governors.  For 
the  sake  of  our  commerce,  we  patiently  submitted  to  the 
destruction  of  our  recently  erected  store-houses,  the 
heavy  expense  incurred  by  the  removal,  and  our  impri- 
sonment in  the  Island  of  Desima,  where  the  Portuguese 
had  their  buildings,  and  which  we  had  heretofore  in 
derision  denominated  their  dungeon.  The  humiliating 
treatment  to  which  they  then  first  subjected  us,  according 
to  our  records  of  those  times,  caused  the  Japanese  to 
remark  that  they  might  act  towards  us  in  a  still  more 
arbitrary  manner." 

At  that  period,  1609,  the  Japanese  may  have  fully 
merited  the  opinion  expressed  by  M.  Titsingh  of  their 
military  importance,  but  this  is  now  sadly  changed ;  they 
are  even  behind  the  Chinese  in  this  respect.  Nor  can  1 
agree  with  the  writer  in  his  opinions  as  to  the  contempt 


1845.]  DEFINITION  OP  COURAGE.  31 

of  death,  in  the  cases  of  suicide,  giving  any  claim  to 
bravery.  It  is  almost  a  question  to  be  classed  with  the 
soliloquy  of  the  culprit  under  sentence  of  execution, 
whether  he  will  submit  to  be  exposed  on  the  scaffold  in 
obedience  to  the  laws  of  his  country,  or  whether  to  avoid 
this  shame,  which,  in  the  cases  of  beheading,  some  have 
gloried  in,  he  will  venture  the  ordeal  of  appearing  before 
his  Judge  on  his  own  responsibility.  It  is  needless  to 
occupy  time  in  discussing  such  a  question  of  bravery,  for 
those  who  witnessed  the  acts  of  every  grade  in  the  affairs 
of  Canton  River,  must  have  remarked  the  hundreds  which 
voluntarily  drowned  themselves  rather  than  submit  to 
capture,  and  yet,  where  was  their  valour?  Did  they 
oppose  half-a-dozen  red  or  blue  jackets  when  they  might 
have  almost  pitched  them  over  the  ramparts  for  their 
temerity  ?  Courage  is  a  different  quality  ;  it  is  not  im- 
petuous, it  is  not  fool-hardy ;  it  is  cool,  calculating,  and 
not  to  be  diverted  from  its  object,  either  by  difficulty,  or 
success.  If  any  lack  of  stability,  command  ceases,  and 
the  most  disgraceful  acts,  committed  by  subordinates 
after  the  loss  of  command,  or  power  to  restrain,  tarnishes 
victory.  Under  these  circumstances  1  consider  all  points 
connected  with  true  courage,  bravery,  or  competency  to 
command,  to  be  a  species  of  acting ;  acting  upon  sound 
and  tenable  grounds,  and  not  for  the  credit  of  an  idle 
triumph,  reaping  laurels  for  self  at  the  cost  of  some  of 
your  best  men.  The  loss,  or  even  injury,  of  one  is  too 
dear,  unless  the  calculation  warrants  the  inference,  that 
the  loss  of  self  and  party  is  important  to  the  cause,  and 
may  save  the  lives  of  many.  The  acting  in  these  cases 
becomes  the  natural  act  of  a  man's  life,  and  predominates 


32  JAPANESE  HOUSES.  [1845. 

whether  the  enemy  be  human,  the  gale,  the  surf,  or  the 
fatal  closing  of  his  career.  On  this  last  is  the  seal  im- 
pressed, and  in  cowardly  seeking  it  by  suicide,  is  cowardice 
established. 

"  The  houses  of  persons  of  quality  are  divided  into  two 
series  of  apartments.     On  one  side  is  that  of  the  women, 
who,  in  general,  never  show  themselves ;  and  on  the 
other,  is  what  we  should  call  the  drawing-room,  where 
visitors  are  received.     Among  the  trades-people  and  in- 
ferior classes,  the  women  enjoy  more  liberty,  and  are  less 
careful  to  conceal  themselves  from  view :  but,  upon  the 
whole,  the  sex  is  treated  with  great  respect,  and  distin- 
guished by  extraordinary  reserve.     The  finest  pieces  of 
porcelain,  and  those  cabinets  and  boxes  which  are  so 
highly  esteemed  and  carried  all  over  the  world,  instead 
of  serving  to  decorate  the  apartments  in  ordinary  use,  are 
kept  in  those  secure  places  above-mentioned,  into  which 
none  but  particular  friends  are  admitted.    .The  rest  of 
the  house  is  adorned  with  common  porcelain,  pots  full  of 
tea,  paintings,  manuscripts,  and  curious  books,  arms,  and 
armorial  bearings.      The   floor   is   covered  with  thick 
double  rugs,  bordered  with  fringe,  embroidery,  and  such 
like  ornaments.    According  to  the  law  *  or  the  custom  of 
the  country,  they  must  all  be  six  feet  in  length,  and 
three  in  breadth. 

"  The  two  suites  of  apartments,  into  which  the  body  of 
the  house  is  divided,  consist  of  several  rooms,  separated 
by  mere  partitions,  or  rather  by  a  kind  of  screens,  which 
may  be  moved  forward  or  backward  at  pleasure ;  so  that 
an  apartment  may  be  made  larger  or  smaller  as  there 

*  This  law  appears  to  prevail  at  the  Meia-co-shimas,  which  leads  to 
the  inference  that  they  are  subject  to  Japan. 


1845.]  CONSTRUCTION  OF  HOUSES.  33 

may  be  occasion.  The  doors  of  the  rooms  and  the  par- 
titions are  covered  with  paper,  even  in  the  most  splendid 
houses :  but  this  paper  is  adorned  with  gold  or  silver 
flowers,  and  sometimes  with  paintings,  with  which  the 
ceiling  is  always  embellished.  In  short,  there  is  not  a 
corner  of  the  house  but  has  a  cheerful  and  pleasing 
appearance.  This  mode  of  arrangement  renders  houses 
more  healthy  :  in  the  first  place,  because  they  are  entirely 
built  of  fir  and  cedar ;  in  the  second,  because  the  windows 
are  so  contrived,  that  by  changing  the  place  of  the  parti- 
tions, the  air  is  allowed  a  free  passage  through  them. 
The  roof,  which  is  covered  with  boards  or  shingles,  is 
supported  by  thick  rafters  ;  and,  when  a  house  has  two 
floors,  the  upper  is  usually  built  more  solidly  than  the 
lower.  It  has  been  found  by  experience,  that  a  house  so 
constructed,  resists  the  shocks  of  earthquakes  better.  In 
the  architecture  of  the  exterior  there  is  nothing  very 
elegant.  The  walls,  which,  as  I  observed,  are  of  boards, 
and  which  are  very  thin,  are  covered  in  many  places  with 
a  greasy  earth  found  near  Osaka ;  or,  instead  of  this 
earth,  they  give  the  outside  a  coat  of  varnish,  which  they 
lay  on  the  roofs  also.  This  varnish  is  relieved  with  gilding 
and  paintings.  The  windows  are  filled  with  pots  of 
flowers,  which,  according  to  Caron,  they  have  for  all 
seasons ;  but  when  they  have  no  natural  flowers  they 
make  shift  with  artificial  ones.  All  this  produces  an 
effect  that  pleases  the  eye,  if  it  does  not  gratify  it  so 
highly  as  beautiful  architecture  would  do." 

These  remarks  particularly  apply  to  the  houses  of  the 
Meia-co-shimas,  Loo-Choo,  and  Quelpart.  The  mats  in 
particular  are,  I  perceive,  according  to  law,  which  I  sus- 

i) 


34  CONSIDERATION  OF  MOTIVES  [1845. 

pected  to  be  the  fact  at  the  Meia-co-shimas,  their  depth 
(of  three  inches)  is  omitted,  without  this  dimension  they 
would  not  preserve  an  evenness. 

Having  waited  patiently  until  7  o'clock,  without  any 
appearance  of  boats  coming,  we  made  sail,  and  continued 
working  over  the  anchorage  for  the  filling  in  of  our 
survey. 

I  now  come  to  the  most  puzzling  consideration  of  this 
visit.  For  my  own  part,  I  should,  without  hesitation, 
from  the  confidential  communications  held  with  those  in 
power,  have  maintained  that  nothing  could  be  discerned 
which  warranted  the  slightest  apprehension  of  false  deal- 
ing ;  yet,  in  justice  to  the  feelings  of  my  Officers,  who 
had  their  eyes  keenly  open  to  any  symptoms  of  bad  faith, 
I  must  say,  that  several  differed  materially  with  me  as  to 
the  medium  through  which  I  received  our  communica- 
tions with  these  people ;  and  yet,  no  single  act  could  be 
adduced  sufficient  to  warrant  my  attaching  any  sort  of 
duplicity  to  it.  It  is  true  the  failure  of  the  Chief  to  keep 
his  appointment  (2  A.M.,  until  6),  during  which  interval 
it  blew  and  rained,  very  much  to  the  detriment  of  their 
paper-wrought  defences  if  they  ventured,  was  deemed 
suspicious;  but  considering  it  as  I  have  done,  a  final 
fiscal  visit,  I  cannot  enter  into  this  feeling.  However, 
after  making  sail,  this  afforded  a  plea  for  working  to  and 
fro  over  the  anchorage,  surveying  the  ground,  ostensibly 
waiting  the  final  visit  of  this  Officer.  During  this  de- 
tention, we  observed  the  Guard  boats,  with  guns  and 
scaling  ladders,  pass  our  bows  and  go  to  the  southern 
Cavallo;  upon  noticing  this,  some  remarks  were  ventured 
that  it  might  possibly  have  been  their  intention  to  take  the 


1845.]  OF  THE  JAPANESE.  35 

'  Samarang '  by  storm  the  preceding  night !  What  busi- 
ness had  they  with  recently  constructed  scaling  ladders  ? 
guns  concealed  by  mats,  &c.  ?  All  this  is  absurd.  It 
would  be  high  time  to  ask  their  reasons  when  we  were 
satisfied  of  the  intention,  but  it  would  really  be  placing 
the  Japanese  too  low  in  the  scale  of  civilized  nations  to 
imagine  that  they  would  risk,  not  only  the  inevitable 
defeat,  which  they  must  have  been  fully  aware  would  have 
been  the  result  of  any  attempt  to  court  hostilities  with 
Great  Britain  by  such  an  unprincipled  unwarrantable 
insult ;  at  a  moment,  too,  when,  from  their  own  admis- 
sions, they  anticipated,  with  satisfaction,  an  official  visit 
from  our  country,  attended  with  overtures  for  the  renewal 
of  friendly  intercourse. 

On  the  other  hand,  let  us  look  at  this  nation  with  the 
same  clear-sighted  vision  that  we  would  judge  one  of 
either  a  timid,  or  intriguing,  disposition.  In  either  case 
we  must,  to  a  certain  degree,  admit  weakness,  or  cowardice, 
and  this  being  the  case,  would  they,  entertaining  such 
machinations,  have  so  fearlessly  trusted  themselves  in 
our  power  until  so  late  an  hour  at  night,  as  in  the  case 
of  the  Mandarin  and  the  Secretary,  or  Interpreter  ?  Or, 
giving  us  credit  for  a  degree  of  weakness,  or  stupidity, 
(which  was  not  very  apparent)  would  they  have  acted 
with  such  madness  as  to  have  risked  their  frail  Gun 
boats  immediately  under  the  bows  of  the  '  Samarang ' 
under  canvas,  with  a  commanding  breeze,  and  liable  to 
speedy  annihilation.  No !  treachery  results  only  from 
cowardice,  and  we  saw  nothing  of  this  complexion ;  more- 
over, there  were  not  more  than  ten  men  in  each  boat, 
merely  sufficient  to  take  charge  of  the  ordnance,  muni- 


36  LEAVE  JAPAN.  [1845. 

tions,  &c.,  when  landed,  and  probably  returning  by  sea 
to  the  station  from  whence  our  appearance  had  caused 
their  summons. 

As  the  non-appearance  of  the  Officer  warranted  our 
delay  at  the  anchorage,  in  the  hope  of  his  visit,  the  ship 
continued  plying  over  the  ground  (perfecting  our  work), 
when,  despairing  of  the  contemplated  visit,  we  bore  up  at 
noon  on  the  10th  of  August,  and  took  our  farewell  for 
the  season,  as  we  imagined,  of  the  shores  of  Japan.  My 
most  ardent  wish  is,  that  the  next  visit  of  a  British  ship- 
of-war  may  be  attended  with  equal  courtesy,  and  that 
she  may  obtain  all  the  objects  so  fully  anticipated  upon 
the  revisit  of  the  '  Samarang.' 

The  following  remarks  are  from  the  voyage  of  the 
'  Morrison  '  before  alluded  to,  in  1837,  which  contains, 
under  the  term  introduction,  extending  to  seventy-five 
pages,  a  suitable  digest  of  the  early  history  of  Japan. 

"  The  earliest  visitor  to  these  regions  is  supposed  to  be 
Marco  Polo,  succeeded  by  Fernando  Mendez  Pinto, 
driven  upon  their  shores  by  a  gale  in  1 542.  Xavier  fol- 
lowed in  1547,  and  was  very  successful  in  propagating 
the  Catholic  religion,  but  quitted  in  1551. 

"About  this  time  (year  1569)  the  Portuguese  first 
pointed  out  to  the  Prince  of  Omura  the  advantages  of  the 
harbours  of  Nangasaki  over  the  ports  they  had  been  used 
to  frequent.  Their  suggestions  led  to  the  formation  of  a 
settlement,  which,  ere  long,  became  an  important  city, 
and  which  retains  an  unhappy  celebrity  down  to  our  own 
day.  It  may  give  some  idea  of  the  rapid  extension  of 
Catholicism  at  this  time,  to  add,  that  the  successor  of 
Xavier  died  in  1570,  having  founded  fifty  churches,  and 


1845.]  EARLY  INTERCOURSE  WITH  JAPAN.  37 

baptized  more  than  30,000  converts  with  his  own  hands. 
Yet  mingled  with  these  successes,  we  have  accounts  of 
the  apostacy  of  one  of  the  Princes,  and  the  persecutions 
inflicted  by  order  of  another." 

"In  1 570,  the Kubo  (or  Djogoun)  Nobunanga  succeeded 
to  the  throne  and  favoured  the  Christians,  and  in  1583, 
the  then  Princes  of  Omura,  Bungo,  and  Arima,  visited 
Lisbon,  and  paid  their  respects  to  the  Pope,  returning  to 
their  own  country  in  1586. 

"  Nobunanga  was  succeeded  in  1582  by  Fide  Yosi,  (the 
famous  Taico,)  who  still  continued  his  patronage  of  the 
Jesuits,  many  of  his  best  Officers  being  their  friends. 
It  is  asserted  that  the  only  bar  to  Taico's  embracing 
Christianity  was  his  refusal  to  give  up  his  Harem.  In 
1587  the  Japanese  began  to  suspect  their  friends,  and 
from  various  causes  assigned,  Taico,  on  the  25th  of  June, 
issued  an  edict  banishing  the  Christian  Missionaries. 
They  were  required  to  retire  to  Firando  within  twenty 
days,  and  to  depart  for  India  within  six  months,  on  pain 
of  death.  The  crosses  they  had  erected  were  ordered  to 
be  thrown  down,  and  the  churches  razed." 

About  this  period  Taico  declared  war  on  China  and 
Korea,  under  the  intention,  as  ascribed  by  the  mission- 
aries, "  of  getting  rid  of  the  Christians  among  his  Officers 
and  troops,  by  sacrificing  them  in  a  foreign  war.  That 
he  cherished  such  a  design  is  inferred  from  his  after  life, 
and  that  he  was  unwilling  to  accomplish  it  by  domestic 
persecution  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  of  200  priests,  and 
1,000,000  converts,  then  in  his  dominions,  he  put  but 
twenty-six  or  twenty-seven  to  death.  The  war  with 
Korea  and  China  terminated  in  favour  of  the  Japanese  in 
1593." 


38  SPANISH  PRIESTS.  [1845. 

"  In  1596,  the  '  Galleon ',  from  Manila,  bound  to  New 
Spain,  was  driven  near  the  Japanese  coast,  and  enticed 
by  the  Prince  of  Tosa  into  one  of  his  ports.  Here  she 
was  embargoed,  and  her  Commander  negociated  in  vain 
for  her  release.  In  the  course  of  this  negociation,  one  of 
her  company  sought  to  produce  an  impression,  by  pointing 
out  to  the  Japanese  Officers  on  a  map,  the  extent  of  the 
dominions  of  the  King  of  Spain.  The  Japanese  asked 
with  surprise,  '  How  is  it  that  your  King  has  managed  to 
possess  himself  of  half  the  world  ? '  The  Spaniard  re- 
plied, '  He  commences  by  sending  priests,  who  win  over 
the  people ;  and  when  this  is  done,  his  troops  are  de- 
spatched to  join  the  native  Christians,  and  the  conquest 
is  easy  and  complete.'  '  What !  my  empire  filled  with 
traitors  !  these  priests  that  I  have  nourished  are  serpents !' 
and  he  swore  that  not  one  of  them  should  be  left  alive. 
New  edicts  of  banishment  followed;  and  the  5th  of 
February,  1597,  was  marked  by  the  martyrdom  of  twenty  - 
•six  priests." 

The  intrigues,  discussions,  and  recriminations,  which 
then  prevailed  between  the  different  sects,  Dominicans, 
Franciscans,  Augustines,  and  Jesuits,  each  in  their  turn 
charging  the  other  with  conspiracy,  opened  the  eyes  of 
the  Japanese,  and  rendered  their  removal  politic.  How- 
ever, upon  the  death  of  Taico,  in  September,  1598,  he 
was  succeeded  by  Yeye  Yason,  or  Gongin,  who  again 
countenanced  the  Catholics. 

The  first  mention  we  have  of  the  Dutch  occurs  in  the 
following : — 

"  In  1608,  a  sad  casualty,  fraught  with  the  worst  con- 
sequences, occurred  at  Macao.  The  crew  of  a  Japanese 


1845.]  FATE  OF  GOVERNOR  PESSOA.  39 

junk,  in  a  riotous  state,  provoked  a  contest  with  the 
military,  and  twenty-eight  of  them  were  killed.  The 
Governor,  Pessoa,  by  whose  order  they  were  fired  on, 
conducted  the  annual  ship  to  Japan  the  following  year. 
The  report  of  his  conduct  was  not  slow  in  following  him, 
carried  probably  by  the  Dutch,  who  arrived  there  in  the 
first  ship  sent  by  their  East  India  Company  the  same 
year.  The  recent  liberation  of  the  Dutch  from  the 
tyranny  of  Phillip  II.,  and  their  vivid  recollection  of  the 
enormities  of  Alva  and  his  coadjutors,  must  be  allowed, 
perhaps,  to  palliate  their  voluntary  information,  and  their 
proposal  to  seize  the  ship  of  Pessoa,  present  her  to  the 
Kubo,  and  in  future  to  supply  the  country  with  the 
articles  which  the  Portuguese  had  previously  furnished. 

"  While  the  Kubo  hesitated,  a  Spanish  vessel  was 
wrecked  on  the  coast,  having  on  board  the  Governor  of 
the  Philippine  Islands  on  his  way  to  New  Spain.  The 
shipwrecked  governor  was  introduced  to  the  Kubo,  who 
asked  him  if  the  Spaniards  could  supply  Japan  with  silks, 
&c.,  provided  the  Portuguese  were  driven  away.  The 
reply  was,  that  Manila  could  supply  three  times  as  much 
as  Macao.  Thus  doubly  assured,  the  order  was  given  to 
seize  the  ship,  behead  Pessoa,  expel  the  Jesuits,  and  give 
their  establishments  to  the  Spanish  priests. 

"On  the  9th  of  January,  1610,  the  attack  was  re- 
newed, Pessoa  and  his  crew  overpowered,  and  the  ship 
burned.  After  which,  the  Emperor  relenting,  permitted 
the  Portuguese  to  continue  then-  trade." 

In  1613,  an  English  factory  was  established  at  Eirando, 
the  Dutch  and  English  making  common  cause  against 
the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese. 


40  PERSECUTION  OF  THE  CATHOLICS.  [1845, 

"In  1614,  an  edict  issued  for  the  demolition  of  the 
churches  and  banishment  of  the  priests.  They  were  im- 
politic enough  to  interfere  in  matters  of  state,  and  the 
party  to  which  they  were  allied  proving  the  weaker,  they 
were  proscribed  afresh,  and  whoever  harboured  them 
were  to  be  condemned  to  death.  This  Kubo  died  in  1616, 
but  Fide  Fada,  his  successor,  followed  out  his  intentions. 

"In  1620,  the  persecution  slackened,  but  was  re- 
kindled in  1622,  when  the  distinguished  Spinola,  and 
many  others  were  burned. 

"  In  1624,  the  persecutions  were  rigorously  pursued, 
extending  even  to  the  violation  of  the  Christian  graves. 
Before  the  year  was  passed,  the  Spaniards  were  banished 
for  ever,  and  the  ports  of  Japan  closed,  except  Nangasaki 
for  the  Portuguese,  and  Firando  for  the  Dutch. 

"  Persecution  seems  to  have  raged,  with  little  intermis- 
sion from  1627  up  to  the  death  of  Fide  Fada  in  1631. 
The  boiling  crater  of  Mount  Ungem  (Unga)  was  now  a 
common  instrument  of  death.  These  cruelties  appear  at 
last,  to  have  made  an  impression  even  on  the  Dutch. 

"  The  character  of  the  cruel,  vicious  Yeye  Mitsou,  was 
already  well  known.  By  his  orders,  Desima  (a  little 
islet  off  Nangasaki)  was  constructed,  and  to  this  new 
prison  the  Portuguese  were  consigned  in  1635,  amid  the 
derision  of  the  short-sighted  Dutch.  The  armaments  of 
their  ships  were  now  taken  away,  no  one  was  suffered  to 
speak  to  a  native  on  religion,  nor  to  walk  without  a  guard. 
Their  native  wives,  and  the  children  by  these  connexions, 
were  ordered  to  be  shipped  off  to  Macao.  The  following 
year  was  marked  by  the  introduction  of  the  ceremony  of 
trampling  on  the  cross. 


1845.]  CONSPIRACY.  41 

"The  death-blow  of  Catholicism  in  Japan  was  now 
about  to  be  struck,  and  we  are  told  that  the  fury  that 
dealt  it,  was  roused  by  the  discovery  of  a  conspiracy 
against  the  throne,  formed  by  the  native  Christians  and 
Portuguese.  Papers,  found  on  board  a  Portuguese  vessel 
captured  off  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  by  the  Dutch,  are 
said  to  have  brought  this  treason  to  light.  It  is  not, 
however,  necessary  to  believe  this.  It  is  easier  to  fabri- 
cate a  letter,  or  a  tale  of  a  letter,  than  to  conspire. 
Forgery  is  less  hazardous  than  treason.  Besides,  the 
story  has  been  denied  most  solemnly  by  the  Jesuits,  and 
their  word  cannot  be  worse  than  that  of  the  Dutch,  on 
whom  its  credibility  rests.  Moreover,  another  and  a 
better  cause  is  at  hand.  The  patience  which  had  borne 
with  heroic,  if  not  Christian  constancy,  so  many  trials,  was 
exhausted ;  and  the  native  Catholics  of  Arima  and  Sima- 
bara  flew  to  arms.  Thirty-eight  thousand  of  them  fortified 
themselves  in  the  latter  place.  The  besieging  army, 
eighty  thousand  strong,  could  not  reduce  the  fortress; 
and  the  Dutch  director  Kockebecker,  was  summoned  to 
its  aid.  He  came.  The  walls  of  Simabara  were  battered 
by  the  Dutch  cannon,  and  its  brave  defenders  perished  to 
a  man,  fighting  to  the  last.  Some  apology  might  again 
be  made  for  this  co-operation  at  the  siege  of  Simabara, 
had  its  defenders  been  the  countrymen  of  Alva,  or  Re- 
quesens,  or  John  of  Austria,  or  Alexander  Earnese.  But 
truth  requires  that  the  measures  of  Kockebecker  should 
be  regarded  as  the  alternative,  which  he  deliberately  pre- 
ferred to  an  interruption  of  the  Dutch  trade.  Our  sense 
of  his  guilty  choice  cannot  be  expressed  in  stronger  lan- 
guage, than  by  declaring  it  unparalleled  in  the  history  of 


42  EXTERMINATION  OP  CHRISTIANITY.  [1845. 

Dutch  intercourse  with  the  East.  Henceforth  the  re- 
sidence of  that  nation  in  Japan  can  be  regarded  only  as 
an  Aceldama ; — its  purchase,  a  river  of  innocent  blood. 

"  Four  of  the  most  distinguished  citizens  were  deputed 
to  soften  the  rigorous  proceedings  of  the  Government  of 
Japan.  They  arrived  at  Nangasaki  in  July,  1640,  and 
were  immediately  put  under  arrest.  The  edict  condemn- 
ing all  Portuguese  who  should  enter  Japan  was  read  to 
to  them ;  and  on  their  confession  that  they  were  aware 
of  its  existence,  were  sentenced  to  death.  The  following 
impious  inscription  was  placed  on  their  common  grave  : 
— '  So  long  as  the  sun  shall  warm  the  earth,  let  no 
Christians  be  so  bold  as  to  come  to  Japan ;  and  let  all 
know,  that  the  King  of  Spain  himself,  or  the  Christian's 
God,  or  the  Great  Saca,  if  he  violate  this  command,  shall 
pay  for  it  with  his  head.'  The  ship  which  carried  the 
Ambassadors  was  burned,  and  the  crew  returned  by 
another  conveyance  to  Macao.  The  people  of  that  city 
abandoned  with  horror  all  further  attempts  on  hearing 
their  terrible  tale." 

Thus  terminated  Catholicism  and  Christianity  in  Japan. 

"  On  the  arrival  of  the  Dutch  ship  or  ships  of  1611, 
a  formal  edict  in  favour  of  their  trade  was  obtained.  It 
gave  them  the  full  enjoyment  of  the  privileges  possessed 
by  their  competitors.  No  duties  appear  to  have  been 
levied  on  them,  nor  any  regulations  as  to  the  quantity  or 
assortment  of  goods,  or  as  to  time  and  place  of  sale,  im- 
posed. They  were  not  exempt  from  municipal  laws,  but 
in  all  other  respects  they  were  '  let  alone.'  We  have  no 
account  of  the  nature  and  extent  of  their  annual  trade 
at  this  period,  but  it  doubtless  flourished  through  the 


1845.]      EXPULSION  OF  THE  PORTUGUESE.         43 

remainder  of  the  reign  of  Gongin,*  and  that  of  his  suc- 
cessor, up  to  his  division  of  the  royal  authority  with  his 
son  in  1623.  Persecutions  had  been  the  lot  of  the 
Romish  clergy  through  the  greater  part  of  this  interval, 
but  it  does  not  appear  that  any  substantial  preference 
was  yet  given  commercially  to  the  Dutch,  over  the 
Portuguese  flag.  Both  parties  came  under  restriction 
in  1623.f 

"  About  this  time  the  Dutch  renewed  their  prayer  that 
the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese  might  be  driven  from  the 
country,  promising  to  supply  Japan  with  goods,  and, 
moreover,  offering  to  transport  Japanese  troops  to  capture 
Macao.  Here  is  the  '  Nuit's '  spirit  again,  seeking  satis- 
faction for  the  failure  of  the  attempt  on  Macao,  in  1623. 

"  The  Portuguese  were  now  shut  up  in  Desima,  and 
we  may  form  some  idea  of  the  extent  and  minuteness  of 
the  official  measures  resorted  to,  to  abolish  every  me- 
mento of  their  religion,  from  the  fact  that  the  Dutch 
were  required  to  erase  the  date  of  their  erection  from 
their  factory  gates.  Their  full  compliances,  and  especially 
their  distinguished  services  at  the  siege  of  Simabara,  in 
1638,  deserved  a  better  recompense;  if  there  be,  as  it  is 
said  there  is,  a  kind  of  honour,  a  social  compact,  kept 

"  *  It  seems  to  tell  against  the  tendency  of  Catholicism  in  Japan, 
that  Taico  and  Gongin,  two  great  princes,  should  stoop  to  persecution 
to  guard  against  a  disputed  succession,  or  to  ensure  the  quiet  reign 
of  a  son,  without  taking  pleasure  in  such  cruelties  during  their  lives. 
We  are  prepared  to  make  allowance  for  selfishness  or  passion,  but  we 
cannot  refuse  a  certain  respect  to  actions  done  to  prevent  evil  conse- 
quences to  others, — to  a  father's  provision  for  his  son,  when  he  himself 
shall  be  no  more." 

"f  The  Portuguese  had  no  ships  in  Japan  in  1623,  they  being  kept 
back  by  an  attack  of  the  Dutch  (and  English?)  in  Macao." 


44  THE  DUTCH  IN  JAPAN.  [1845. 

between  the  worst  of  men.  From  this  saying,  the 
Japanese  of  1640  must  certainly  be  excepted,  for  at  that 
time,  only  two  years  after  the  butchery  of  Simabara,  they 
consigned  their  gallant  allies  to  the  prison  of  Desima, 
just  emptied  by  the  expulsion  of  the  Portuguese.  A 
little  before,  the  Dutch  had  been  told,  'You  observe 
Sunday,  you  date  from  the  birth  of  Christ,  your  prayer 
is  to  him,  and  your  confession  of  faith,  that  of  His  dis- 
ciples; the  gospels,  the  prophets  and  the  apostles  are 
your  sacred  writings ;  and  there  is  but  little  difference 
between  your  belief  and  that  of  the  Portuguese.  We 
have  known  this  for  a  long  time,  but  we  saw  that  you 
were  enemies  of  the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese.  We 
now  require  you  to  erase  the  dates  from  your  buildings, 
to  cease  to  observe  the  Sabbath ;  and  as  for  your  future 
conduct,  the  lords  of  Firando  will  tell  you  the  rest.' 
Against  these  instructions,  and  the  transportation  to  Nan- 
gasaki  which  followed,  not  a  murmur  was  raised.  The 
Dutch  were  now  left  in  sole  possession  of  the  trade  with 
Japan,  and  since  that  time  it  is  well  known  their  mono- 
poly has  never  been  disturbed.  Their  subsequent  poli- 
tical intercourse  has  been  limited  to  an  occasional  mission 
from  Batavia,  and  the  visits  of  the  Dutch  chief  of  the 
factory  to  Yeddo,  formally  made  annually,  but  now  once 
in  four  years. 

"  Holland  falling  again  under  French  occupation,  the 
Javan  Islands  were  taken  possession  of  by  Great  Britain, 
in  1811 ;  and  the  Dutch  residents  at  Nangasaki  had  been 
more  than  three  years  without  communication  with 
Europe,  when  the  expedition  planned  by  Sir  T.  S.  Raffles 
arrived  there,  in  1813.  A  notice  of  this  bold  experiment, 


1845.]  BRITISH  EXPEDITION.  45 

and  of  a  second  trial  made  the  year  after,  will  be  found 
in  our  sketch  of  British  intercourse.  Both  failed  to  re- 
move the  president  of  the  Dutch  factory  at  Nangasaki, 
who  kept  his  place  until  the  trade  with  Japan  was 
renewed,  on  the  restoration  of  the  Dutch  E.  I.  colonies, 
at  the  peace  of  1815.  The  pertinacious  M.  Doeff  was 
relieved  by  the  arrival  of  a  legitimate  successor  in  1817. 
Since  that  time,  the  trade  has  been  carried  on  for  account 
of  the  Dutch  Government,  with  the  exception  of  the 
years  1828  and  1829.  The  two  annual  vessels  are 
chartered,  and  the  principal  articles  of  their  cargoes  laden 
by  government,  which  receives  and  employs,  chiefly  in 
the  Batavian  coinage,  the  copper  that  constitutes  the  great 
return  from  Japan.  The  minor  articles  sent  in  these 
ships  are  put  on  board  by  private  merchants,  who  pur- 
chase, at  auction,  their  licenses  to  take  this  part  in  the 
trade.  We  have  no  list  of  cargoes  later  than  that  of 
1806,  given  in  the  appendix  to  the  '  History  of  Java,' 
and  which  consists  of  sugar,  tin,  woollen  cloths,  chintzes, 
pepper,  spices,  sapan  wood,  &c.,  &c.,  valued  at  175,000 
dollars ;  the  returns  for  which  were  in  copper  and  cam- 
phor, and  the  balance  in  favour  of  the  voyage,  175,000 
dollars.  But  in  this  account,  the  copper  is  assumed  by 
the  mint  at  fifty  dollars  per  picul,  considerably  more  than 
the  market  price." 

Speaking  of  Adams,  an  English  pilot,  in  the  interest 
of  the  Dutch  : — 

"  Three  years  after  this,  one  of  his  letters,  addressed 
to  his  countrymen  in  Java,  fell  into  the  hands  of  Capt. 
Saris,  one  of  the  Commanders  of  the  English  E.  I.  Com- 
pany, who,  acting  on  its  invitations,  sailed  for  Firando 


46  VISIT  OF  THE  '  RETURN.'  [1845. 

early  in  1613.  Capt.  Saris  had  letters  of  commendation 
from  James  L,  with  which  he  repaired  to  the  court  of 
Gongin  at  Surunga,  where  he  was  well  received.  He 
subsequently  paid  his  respects  to  the  heir  apparent  at 
Yeddo,  and  returned  to  Firando  with  full  permission  for 
himself  and  countrymen  to  carry  on  a  free  trade.  Saris 
then  returned  to  England,  leaving  Mr.  Richard  Cocks  at 
Firando  as  factor  of  the  English  E.  I.  Company,  where  he 
remained  until  the  establishment  was  given  up,  in  1623. 

"  The  civil  wars  of  England  had  long  been  succeeded 
by  the  restoration,  when  the  ship  '  Return '  was  sent  to 
Japan  in  1673.  On  his  arrival  at  Nangaski,  the  captain 
was  asked  what  religion  he  was  of ;  and  how  long  his 
master  had  been  married  to  a  Portuguese  princess ;  and 
if  they  had  any  issue  ?  Information  as  to  the  fact  of 
this  state  connection,  the  Japanese  must,  of  course,  have 
derived  from  the  Dutch.  Inquiry  was  also  made,  why 
forty-nine  years  had  been  permitted  to  elapse,  and  no 
attempt  been  made  by  the  English  to  renew  the  trade  ? 
The  answer  was,  that  the  greater  part  of  the  interval  had 
been  passed  in  civil  convulsions  and  foreign  wars.  Several 
conferences  ensued,  which  turned  chiefly  on  the  Portu- 
guese, and  the  difference  between  the  English  and  the 
Portuguese.  A  month  after  the  arrival  of  the  '  Return ', 
it  was  announced,  on  the  part  of  the  Kubo,  that  '  his 
subjects  could  not  be  permitted  to  trade  with  those  of  a 
king  who  had  married  the  daughter  of  his  greatest 
enemy ;  and  that  the  English  must  sail  with  the  first  fair 
wind/ 

"  Another  century  had  nearly  elapsed,  when  the  last 
expedition  of  Cook  passed  down  the  eastern  coast  of 


1845.]  VISITS  OF  BRITISH  SHIPS.  47 

Niphon,  after  the  great  navigator's  death,  and  decorated 
several  of  its  capes  with  English  names,  which  still  keep 
their  places  on  the  charts. 

"  Twelve  years  later,  in  1791,  Capt.  Colnet  skirted  the 
western  shores  of  the  Japanese  Archipelago,  in  search  of 
some  point  where  trade  might  be  opened;  but  was 
everywhere  repulsed  by  the  boats  of  the  coast-guard. 
Wood,  water,  &c.,  were,  however,  furnished  him,  without 

pay- 

"In  1796,  Capt.  Broughton  visited  the  Japanese 
islands,  for  the  purpose  of  discovery,  and  passed  some 
time  in  surveying  and  refitting  on  the  coasts  of  Yesso  or 
Matsmai.  He  was  kindly  treated,  supplied  with  refresh- 
ments, and  even  boarded  by  the  fishing  boats  as  far  south 
as  the  bay  of  Yeddo.  Being  in  a  public  exploring 
vessel,  he,  of  course,  made  no  attempt  to  open  a  trade. 

"  In  1803,  the  ship  '  Frederick '  was  sent  to  Nangasaki 
from  Calcutta,  with  a  valuable  cargo  of  British  goods. 
Capt.  Torey,  who  commanded  her,  was  refused  admit- 
tance to  the  harbour,  and  required  to  leave  the  road  in 
twenty-four  hours.  The  Calcutta  merchants  were  pro- 
bably led  into  this  attempt  by  the  'representations  of  M. 
Titsingh,  who,  as  Dutch  resident  at  Chinsurah,  had  been 
their  neighbour  for  many  years.  This  gentleman  seems 
always  to  have  looked  back  to  Japan,  and  to  his  stay 
there  with  the  fondness  so  often  felt  toward  an  old 
residence,  the  discomforts  of  which  are  forgotten,  but  the 
agreeable  recollections  still  retained. 

"  In  1808,  two  years  after  Louis  Buonaparte  had  been 
crowned  king  of  Holland,  the  English  frigate  '  Phaeton ' 
entered  the  harbour  of  Nangasaki  in  search  of  Dutch 


48  THE  '  PHAETON.'  [1845, 

ships,  with  orders  to  *  sink,  burn,  and  destroy.'  On  her 
being  boarded  by  the  Japanese  officers,  accompanied  by 
two  of  the  Dutch  factory,  an  accidental  rencontre  took 
place,  and  the  gentlemen  from  Desima  were  detained  for 
a  short  time  as  prisoners  of  war.  Notwithstanding  this, 
the  governor  of  Nangasaki  obeyed  the  requisitions,  and 
furnished  the  ship  with  all  needed  supplies.  Opposite 
accounts  are  given  of  the  effect  of  these  proceedings  of 
Captain  Pellew ;  one,  that  everything  was  yielded  at  his 
requisitions,  the  other,  that  preparations  were  in  pro- 
gress, which  would  have  cut  off  the  frigate,  had  she  not 
hastily  put  to  sea.  According  to  the  Dutch  version,  this 
unfortunate  expedition  had  no  results,  but  to  prejudice 
the  British  name,  and  to  compel  the  governor  of  Nanga- 
saki to  the  last  resort  of  an  implicated  or  unfortunate 
Japanese  officer,  viz.,  to  commit  suicide.  The  English 
statement,  on  the  other  hand,  relieves  Capt.  Pellew  of  all 
blame,  and  throws  on  the  malicious  disclosures  of  the 
Dutch,  who  had  been  requested  to  report  the  '  Phaeton ' 
as  an  Indiaman,  the  whole  responsibility  for  the  conse- 
quences, whatever  they  may  have  been,  of  their  disclosure 
that  the  strange  vessel  was  a  ship  of  war.*  In  1811,  a 
British  armament,  from  Bengal,  took  possession  of  the 
Java  Islands,  and  in  1813  two  ships  were  despatched  by 
the  Lieut.  Governor,  Sir  T.  S.  Raffles,  to  renew  the  com- 
muncations  with  Japan.  The  cargoes  of  these  ships 
consisted  of  sugar,  tin,  spices,  woollens,  chintzes,  &c., 
amounting  to  298,000  dollars.  The  returns,  including 
debts  paid  in  Japan,  and  goods  left  unsold  there, 

"  *  Vide  Quart.  Rev.  no.  112,  and  U.  Service  Journ.  for  Mar.  1836. 


1845.]  DR.  AINLIE'S  REPORT.  49 

amounted  to  342,000  dollars — balance  in  favour  of  the 
voyage,  44,000  dollars.  It  is  added  that  the  result 
would  have  been  better,  but  for  the  high  cost  and  poor 
assortment  of  the  cargoes,  and  the  extravagant  rate  of 
freight.  Dr.  Ainlie,  who  accompanied  this  expedition, 
returned  with  the  impression  that  '  the  Japanese  were 
entirely  free  from  any  prejudices  that  would  stand  in  the 
way  of  an  unrestricted  intercourse  with  Europeans.  Even 
their  religious  prejudices  appeared,  to  him,  moderate  and 
inoffensive.  Commerce  with  Japan,  both  in  exports  and 
imports,  was  in  his  opinion,  extensible  to  a  long  list  of 
articles  not  yet  exchanged,  and  capable  of  great  increase. 
We  will  not  attempt  to  decide  how  far  his  opinions  on 
the  accessibleness  of  this  empire  may  have  been  modified 
by  the  views  and  wishes  of  his  patron  and  friend.  The 
following  year  a  second  effort  was  made  by  Governor 
Raffles,  in  a  single  vessel,  to  place  British  representation 
at  Nangasaki ;  but  the  pertinacity  of  the  Dutch  president 
triumphed  in  this,  as  in  the  former  instance,  and  he  kept 
his  footing  as  the  impersonation  of  the  old  regime,  until 
Java  and  its  dependencies  fell  again  into  Dutch  hands, 
after  the  peace  of  1815." 

The  position  of  the  western  islet  off  the  anchorage  at 
Nangasaki,  upon  which  our  Observations  were  made, 
was  determined  to  be  in  Latitude  32°  43'  32"  N.,  Lon- 
gitude 129°  43'  54"  E.,  Variation  2°  35'  39"  W.,  and 
Dip  45°  6'  2".  The  coasts  of  Japan  have  not  at  any 
period  been  surveyed  by  competent  persons,  and  the  out- 
lines of  the  main  islands,  which  we  possess,  and  upon 
the  authority,  I  believe,  of  the  Jesuits,  can  only  be 
reckoned  as  Maps,  instead  of  Charts ;  consequently,  the 

VOL.  II.  E 


50  LOSS  OP  INSTRUMENTS.  [1845 

out-lying  dangers,  consisting  of  rocks  and  islets,  not 
coming  within  their  knowledge  or  power  of  placing,  were 
found  to  be  more  numerous  than  we  had  anticipated,  and 
afforded  us  much  uneasiness  during  the  thick  rainy  night 
which  ensued.  Dawn  only  assured  us  that  had  we  been 
visited  by  northerly  gale,  we  might  have  stood  a  very 
fair  chance  of  wreck  upon  the  dangers  which  studded  our 
path,  and  have  sought  a  renewal  of  friendship  at  Nanga- 
saki  earlier  than  we  had  anticipated. 

"  The  sweet  little  cherub  that  sits  up  aloft  " 

had,  however,  kept  a  bright  eye  on  the  c  Samarang ',  and 
she  was  now  quietly  threading  her  way  to  a  safe  offing. 

It  now  became  our  object  to  make  the  shortest  run  for 
Loo-Choo,  both  on  account  of  Chronometers,  as  well  as 
provisions,  but  calms  and  variables,  added  to  the  dis- 
covery of  islands  not  on  our  charts,  rendered  our  unwil- 
ling detention  interesting.  On  the  13th  of  August  we 
landed  upon  one  of  these  terra  incognita;,  and  effected  a 
tolerable  survey,  by  despatching  the  master  and  second 
master  to  two  others.  On  the  14th  a  similar  course  was 
pursued,  but,  unfortunately,  at  the  moment  of  embarkation 
an  accident  happened  which  caused  me  considerable  un- 
easiness; the  coxswain,  anxious  for  my  comfort  and 
safety,  had  so  placed  himself  between  the  rocks  and  the 
gig,  that  the  receding  swell  jammed  him  between  her 
stern  and  the  rocks,  and  the  wave  falling  lower  than 
usual,  caused  our  boat  to  upset  and  fill.  Every  instru- 
ment but  the  Chronometer,  then  in  my  hands,  was  lost, 
including  all  the  pets,  public  as  well  as  private ;  thus, 
at  one  blow,  almost  paralysing  future  exertions;  cer- 


1845.]  RETURN  TO  LOO-CHOO.  51 

tainly  destroying  that  degree  of  confidence  in  the  observa- 
tions which  these  instruments  warranted.  After  this,  as 
if  sympathising  in  our  disaster,  a  favourable  breeze 
ensued,  and  before  sunset  the  '  Samarang '  was  moving 
about  seven  knots  towards  her  destination.  This  con- 
tinued until  sighting  the  Loo-Choo  group,  when  it  again 
fell  calm,  preventing  our  reaching  anchorage  until  the 
18th,  about  4,  P.M.  Here  we  found  the  '  Royalist/  which 
had  been  appointed  as  our  consort,  awaiting  our  arrival ; 
but  to  our  great  disappointment,  with  barely  provision 
to  enable  us  to  reach  Hong-Kong,  thus  destroying  all 
expectations  of  examining  this  interesting  group,  with 
the  same  satisfaction  and  freedom  as  we  had  done  at 
the  Meia-co-shimas,  as  well  as  cutting  off  that  measure 
of  relaxation  to  which  our  crew  looked  forward  after 
cheerful  submission  to  extraordinary  and  arduous  labour, 
consequent  upon  this  peculiar  service.  So  satisfied 
were  the  Board  of  Admiralty  upon  the  necessity  of 
these  relaxations,  upon  reaching  port,  that  to  prevent  any 
misconception  upon  this  important  point,  it  was  em- 
bodied in  a  distinct  and  special  letter;  but  as  the  1st  of 
September  was  specified  as  my  final  limit  for  return  to 
Hong-Kong,  anything  short  of  absolute  necessity  forbad 
delay.  Every  exertion  was,  therefere,  directed  towards 
completing,  and  during  the  interval  requisite  for  rating 
the  Chronometers,  I  determined  on  making  the  most  of 
my  detention  amongst  these  people. 

The  ceremonial  forms  were,  on  account  of  my  recent 
visit  much  curtailed,  and  I  found  myself  infinitely  more 
at  home  with  these  people  than  I  had  anticipated.  The 
Frenchman  had  been  less  vigourously  treated,  but  they 

E2 


52  EXCURSION  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS.  [1845. 

had  by  their  tact  prevented  their  people  from  communi- 
cating so  freely  with  him  as  before,  thus  turning  the 
tables  in  order  to  render  his  excursions  so  monotonous 
as  to  cease  to  be  interesting.  His  funds,  too,  had  fallen 
low,  but  the  arrival  of  the  '  Royalist '  had  enabled  him 
to  obtain  supplies. 

The  presence  of  the  Frenchman  now  proved  of  some 
importance  to  ourselves,  as  he,  having  visited  the  interior, 
was  able  to  afford  me  much  information,  and  assisted  in 
forming  plans  for  an  excursion,  which  having  already 
been  permitted  to  him,  they  could  not,  by  courtesy,  deny 
to  me.  The  intimation  that  I  wished  to  take  air  on  the 
mountains,  and  that  the  Frenchman  should  accompany 
me,  was  conceded  without  difficulty,  and  having  arranged 
to  breakfast  with  the  Padre,  our  horses,  guides,  &c., 
were  assembled  at  his  gate.  After  breakfast,  our  party, 
consisting  of  the  Padre,  Lieut.  Ogle,  of  the  '  Royalist ', 
Lieut.  Roberton,  of  the  '  Samarang ',  and  myself,  with 
one  Mid.  and  our  interpreter,  Aseng,  mounted  our  steeds, 
and  accompanied  by  Mandarins,  great  and  small,  with 
attendants,  forming  a  goodly  throng,  proceeded  on  our 
journey.  The  interpreter  had  some  little  communication 
with  me  previous,  and  having  intimated  a  wish  that  the 
great  town,  or  city  of  the  Emperor  should  not  be  entered,  I 
assured  him  most  fully  upon  this  matter,  reminding  him 
of  our  proceedings  at  the  Meia-co-shimas ;  upon  which 
he  concluded,  "  you  are  at  liberty  to  do  as  you  please, 
Loo-Choo  man  very  small."  Our  steeds  were  led  with 
some  little  ceremony  until  we  gained  the  outskirts  of  the 
town,  when  they  were  left  to  our  own  control,  or,  more 
truly,  to  their  own  instinct.  I  am  not  quite  satisfied 


1845.]  PROGRESS  THROUGH  THE  VILLAGES.  53 

that  mine,  which  was  a  very  active,  but  easy-going  little 
animal,  had  not  inherited  some  of  the  feelings  of  his 
biped  masters,  for  he  never  missed  an  opportunity  when- 
ever we  came  within  reach  of  the  Padre,  either  of  lashing 
out  at  him  with  his  heels,  or,  if  in  advance,  of  snorting, 
and  using  his  fore  legs :  frequently  to  my  discomforture ; 
the  Padre  on  occasion  remarking,  "you  perceive  that 
even  their  horses  are  taught  to  dislike  me."  Having 
ascended  about  one-third  of  the  distance,  to  the  highest 
ridge,  commanding  a  view  of  the  town  and  anchorage, 
as  well  as  the  city  above  us,  we  were  invited  to  rest  and 
take  refreshment  in  a  small  thatched  house,  apparently 
constructed  for  the  occasion.  Our  next  stage  carried  us 
through  a  much  more  interesting  country  than  my  view 
from  the  sea  led  me  to  imagine  existed  in  Loo-Choo. 
No  hesitation  was  now  shown  by  the  inhabitants  in 
taking  us  through  their  villages,  the  old  women  were 
driven  away,  or  made  to  stoop  in  hiding  their  heads,  but 
were,  in  all  probability,  taking  a  sly  peep  under  their 
arms ;  and  the  young  ladies  in  the  houses  were  very 
plainly  pulling  the  blinds  aside  to  get  a  sight  of  the  bar- 
barians. At  length  we  reached  a  very  pleasant  seques- 
tered spot,  surrounded  by  large  trees,  and  barely  admit- 
ting of  prospect  beyond  the  anchorage  and  town  beneath. 
Here  mats  were  spread  upon  the  grass,  and  being  seated, 
sweetmeats,  cakes,  tea,  &c.,  were  again  introduced,  and 
from  the  regular  "  set  to  "  and  the  abundance  of  canteens 
produced,  I  suspect  that  this  was  the  general  meal  hour, 
as  in  reply  to  my  wish  to  proceed,  it  was  hinted,  "Mandarin 
man  eat  plenty  this  time."  It  appeared  also  to  be  in 
some  measure  devoted  to  the  toilet,  if  one  might  judge 


54  EXPLORE  THE  HEIGHTS.  [1845. 

from  the  various  heads  under  the  manipulation  of  the 
youthful  valets. 

At  length,  having  re-mounted  our  steeds,  we  proceeded 
by  gentle  oblique  roads,  leading  towards  the  highest  range, 
pretty  well  paved,  and  shaded  with  trees  of  large  size 
on  either  side.  At  the  summit  the  ground  appeared  to  be 
levelled  by  art,  and  the  Padre  taking  the  lead,  passed  into 
a  narrow  path,  reaching  to  the  summit,  at  the  boundary 
wall  of  which  a  tablet  with  characters  in  Chinese,  gave 
some  description  of  the  building  above,  which  was  now  in 
a  state  of  ruin.  Erom  our  examination  of  the  area  which 
it  had  occupied,  being  about  300  feet  in  length,  by  eighty 
or  ninety  wide,  and,  probably,  twenty-five  feet  in  height, 
as  well  as  from  one  or  two  vestiges  of  bastions,  or  turrets, 
which  remained,  it  struck  me  as  belonging  to  the  same 
school  of  fortification  as  those  at  Quelpart,  which  differ  from 
anything  I  have  observed  in  recent  works  in  China,  Loo- 
Choo  or  Japan,  inasmuch  as  the  latter  are  rather  deficient 
in  placing  their  flanking  guns  to  advantage.  From  the 
summit  of  these  ruins,  apparently  the  most  commanding 
height  upon  Tah-Liew-Kiew  (Great  Loo-Choo),  we  were 
able  to  see  the  ocean  on  all  sides,  as  well  as  every  re- 
markable feature  on  the  island,  completely  overlooking 
the  city  of  Sheudi,  or  Shoolee,  the  town  of  Napa, 
anchorage,  &c.  As  I  had  already  received  official  notice 
"  that  if  I  would  not  re-visit  the  Meia-co-shimas,  to  survey, 
every  facility  would  be  afforded  here,  where  there  were 
plenty  of  Mandarins  to  attend  upon  me,"  I  considered 
this  to  be  my  most  important  station,  and  viewed 
with  considerable  interest  the  features  of  the  island  thus 
delineated,  as  on  a  map,  beneath  me,  mentally  singling 


1845.]  CITY  OF  SHEUDI.  55 

out  snug  little  bays  and  interesting  spots  for  our  resting- 
places. 

The  view  of  the  city  of  Sheudi  from  hence,  apparently 
above  a  hundred  feet  or  more,  lower  in  level,  as  well  as  from 
several  other  positions,  aided  by  a  good  reconnoitring 
telescope,  led  me  to  imagine  that  it  has  not  been  con- 
structed for  the  purpose  of  defence.  It  appears  to  be  a 
walled  inclosure,  occupying  the  crest  of  a  hill,  steep 
towards  the  north,  or  side  next  the  anchorage,  but  jutting 
in  a  peninsular  form  from  the  level  behind  it.  These 
walls,  which  follow  the  inequalities  of  the  rocky  face  of 
the  hill,  are  probably  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  in  height, 
very  slender,  and  not  calculated  to  support  ordnance ; 
they  are  neatly  kept  and  whitened,  and  have  flag-staves  on 
three  of  the  angles,  on  one  of  which  a  banner  was  occa- 
sionally exhibited.  On  the  land  side,  the  walls  are  not  in 
such  good  repair,  and  at  the  neighbourhood  of  the  eastern 
gate,  not  more  than  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  height ;  the  road 
leading  to  this  gate  was  by  a  paved  causeway,  and  with  so 
large  a  proportion  of  well-built  houses  on  either  side,  as  a 
suburb,  that  it  impressed  me  with  the  idea  that  the  com- 
paratively small  space  inclosed  by  the  walls  might  con- 
tain a  palace,  temple,  or  some  public  establishment.  In 
confirmation  of  this  idea,  I  was  unable  when  at  our  best 
position  (where  we  breakfasted),  and  nearly  at  its  level, 
to  detect  more  than  two  great  buildings,  occupying  the 
eastern  side ;  the  remainder  was  concealed  by  the  very 
thick  foliage  of  the  large  trees  within,  which  are  not 
common  in  towns.  Previous  visitors  have  indulged  in 
various  conjectures  about  this  city,  the  Emperor,  and 
various  other  subjects,  relating  to  the  difficulty  of  pene- 


50  INTERPRETER  ASENG.  [1845- 

trating  into  the  interior.  I  do  not  mean  for  a  moment 
to  insinuate  that  those  who  preceded  me  were  wanting 
either  in  tact,  or  determination,  but  either  these  people 
have  changed,  their  superiors  have  relaxed,  or,  (the  most 
important  point,)  they  were  not  aided  by  so  determined  a 
Chinese  interpreter  as  I  had  in  Aseng,  the  pupil  and 
servant  of  my  lamented  friend,  Mr.  Morrison,  able  to  speak 
as  well  as  write  the  court  dialect.  It  will  be  seen  that 
this  latter  advantage  was  important ;  first  at  the  Meia- 
co-shimas ;  next  at  Quelpart,  and  the  Korea ;  at  Japan ; 
and  now,  at  Loo-Choo.  Restraint  appeared  to  dissolve 
before  him.  This  may  also  be  attributed  to  the  presence 
of  the  Frenchman,  but  certainly  did  not  extend  to  the 
permission  to  survey  their  islands.  Here  we  were  on  the 
summit  of  one  of  the  Loo-Choo  peaks,  as  guests,  feted  at 
every  turn,  and  I  feel  that  I  may  safely  say,  nominally, 
by  my  own  proposition,  excluded  from  entering  this  en- 
chanted city. 

Before  I  descend  from  this  elevation,  let  me  discuss  the 
questions  of  "  the  Emperor  ".  I  found  on  many  occasions 
that  my  interpeter  confounded  the  terms  Chief,  Mandarin, 
Examiner,  King,  Queen,  and  Emperor,  which  also  ex- 
pressed Ruler,  and  it  was  not  without  special  examina- 
tion, on  every  occasion,  that  I  induced  him  to  adopt  the 
proper  English  words.  So  it  has  probably  happened 
with  others  at  Loo-Choo,  with  respect  to  the  designation 
of  \Einperor.'  But  on  this  occasion  I  was  determined  to 
probe  the  matter  more  closely.  I  therefore  demanded  of 
him  where  the  Chief  resided  ?  The  reply  was,  "  Sheudi ". 
"What  is  his  rank?"  "Mandarin,  not  first  chop." 
"  Has  he  a  button  ?  "  "  No— I  think  he  Japan  Chief." 


1845.]  THE  LOO-CHOOANS.  57 

"  Enquire."  "  He  no  like  say."  "  Ask  why  they  sent 
reports  from  Pa-tchung-san,  and  hence  to  Japan,  stating 
how  I  had  been  employed,  if  their  Chief  was  not  under 
Japanese  rule  ?  "  "  He  say,  '  who  told  you  he  send  chop 
to  Japan '  ?  "  The  interpreter  having  explained,  all  the 
reply  we  could  obtain  was,  "  He  say  he  must  do  so." 
However,  this  point  was  indirectly  established  at  other 
meetings,  and  satisfied  me  that  all  the  chain  of  islands 
continuous  from  Japan,  as  far  as  the  Meia-co-shimas,  are 
penal  settlements  under  Mandarins,  not  Emperors.  Re- 
ferring to  the  visit  of  the  '  Morrison '  to  this  port,  on  her 
passage  to  Japan,  having  on  board  the  Japanese  who 
were  wrecked  near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  in  the 
Oregon  territory ,  it  appears,  that  the  chiefs  of  this  place 
expressed  great  anxiety  about  them,  observing,  "  that  it 
would  be  far  better  to  send  them  from  Loo-Choo  by  one 
of  the  Japanese  junks."  Would  they  presume  to  do  so 
in  defiance  of  the  known  laws  of  Japan,  unless  they 
possess  some  delegated  authority?  It  appears  further, 
that  on  discovering  the  determination  to  proceed  in  the 
'Morrison',  that  the  communication  with  that  vessel  became 
more  restrained,  probably,  to  prevent  intercourse  with  these 
people;  the  language  of  these  islands  being  very  similar  to 
that  of  the  lower  orders  in  Japan.  However,  a  document 
put  on  board  at  the  moment  of  departure,  and  translated 
by  Mr.  Gutzlaff,  as  well  as  by  another,  totally  unconnected 
with  him,  at  Hong-Kong,  and  agreeing,  clearly  points 
out  the  authority  of  Loo-Choo  over  the  Meia-co-shimas, 
and  Mr.  Gutzlaff,  from  it,  and  other  sources,  perfectly 
coincided  in  opinion  with  me  upon  their  being  under  the 
control  of  Japan. 


58  TOWN  OF  NA.PA.  [1845, 

Having  descended  from  our  elevation,  we  entered  a 
Temple  close  at  hand,  where  further  supplies  of  tea,  sake, 
refreshments,  &c.  had  been  prepared  for  us ;  after  which, 
somewhat  to  my  surprise,  our  conductors  led  us  by  a  road 
directly  for  the  city  of  Sheudi.  At  one  moment  I  began 
to  fancy  that  they  intended  to  surprise  me  by  some  mark 
of  peculiar  favour,  at  another,  that  they  wished  to  make 
the  experiment  in  order  to  ascertain  how  far  they  could 
calculate  upon  our  dispositions.  The  Padre,  finding  that 
we  were  very  near  the  city,  even  in  the  suburbs,  and  un- 
attended by  our  Mandarin  escort,  wished  to  push  forward, 
but  as  my  word  had  been  pledged,  either  directly,  or  in- 
directly, to  refrain  from  such  a  step,  I  merely  advanced 
to  the  crossing,  by  way  of  ascertaining  how  far  our  guides 
had  neglected  their  trust,  and  drew  up,  when  we  were 
soon  rejoined  by  our  attendants.  As  soon  as  they  per- 
ceived, by  my  smile,  that  I  did  not  intend  committing 
them,  they  appeared  voluntarily  to  relax,  and  I  suspect 
that  had  I  been  alone,  they  would  not  have  objected  to 
my  riding  through  the  town.  However,  they  took  us  by 
a  nearer  route,  immediately  round  the  base  of  the  little 
hill  on  which  it  stands,  and  by  this  measure,  we  obtained 
a  shorter  and  more  convenient  road  towards  the  town  of 
Napa,  where  we  arrived  without  further  incident,  passing 
through  the  suburbs  at  Pootsoong,  without  the  slightest 
surprise  on  the  part  of  the  residents,  to  whom,  probably, 
the  appearance  of  the  French  had  become  familiar. 

During  this  excursion  another  subject  was  discussed 
which  entirely  destroyed  former'  assertions  as  to  the 
questions  of  barter  or  use  of  money.  In  the  first  in- 
stance, I  have  already  alluded  to  the  lowness  of  funds,  on 


1845.]  PURCHASE  OF  A  HORSE.  59 

the  part  of  the  French  rendering  them  uneasy.  How 
could  this  happen  if  money  was  not  in  circulation  ?  But 
the  French  were  able  to  purchase  their  supplies  in  the 
market,  either  directly,  or,  I  believe,  latterly,  through  a 
Mandarin,  appointed  to  superintend  these  affairs.  But 
to  put  the  question  to  the  test,  I  made  the  inquiry  as  to 
the  value  of  such  a  pony  as  that  furnished  me;  the 
reply  was,  "  fifteen  dollars."  "  Can  I  purchase  one  for 
that  sum  ?"  "  Undoubtedly."  "  Can  I  purchase  this 
one  ?"  "  Yes."  He  was  not  a  purchase,  but  '  'a  tribute 
horse  "  from  Shantung  Province,  near  Pekin,  sent  by  the 
Chinese  Emperor.  My  Interpreter  in  this  case  also  mys- 
tified the  term  present  into  tribute,  as  it  was  undoubtedly 
a  present.  Finally,  on  dismounting,  before  the  horse  could 
be  changed,  I  repeated  the  question  : — "  Will  you  sell 
this  horse  for  fifteen  dollars  ?"  On  the  reply  in  the  affir- 
mative, Aseng  marked  him,  and  the  next  day  he  was 
sent  off  to  the  ship  in  one  of  their  boats ;  but  on  pro- 
ducing the  fifteen  dollars,  it  was  intimated  that  if  I  had 
an  old  telescope,  the  Mandarin  would  prefer  it.  Suffi- 
cient has,  I  trust,  been  adduced  to  show  the  habit  of 
dealing,  and  upon  the  question  of  remuneration,  they 
gladly  accepted  flannel,  cloth,  calico,  silk,  and  crapes, 
with  other  trifles  which  were  sent  in  return  for  presents 
made  to  the  ship,  and  for  which  I  obtained  receipts. 

On  my  return  to  the  ship,  an  invitation  was  brought 
on  board  "  from  the  Chief  Magistrate  of  Napa,  specially 
deputed  to  communicate  with,  and  receive  the  foreign 
Chiefs,"  requesting  the  company  of  myself  and  Officers  on 
the  day  following,  at  an  entertainment.  The  number 
of  Officers,  names,  and  rank,  to  be  specified.  The 


60  VISIT  TO  CHIEF  MANDARIN.  [1845. 

weather  proved  rather  unpropitious,  but  I  think  that  our 
party  numbered  about  twelve.  The  place  appointed  was 
not  as  I  suspected,  at  Pootsoong,  but  at  a  position  infinitely 
more  convenient.  This  was  at  a  building  situated  at  the 
inner  angle  of  the  stone  causeway,  projecting  mid-channel 
from  Napa,  at  the  point  where  the  junks  are  moored,  and 
probably  used  as  the  Custom  House.  Here  we  found  a 
very  convenient  inclined  jetty,  enabling  us  to  land  without 
difficulty,  and  within  fifty  yards  of  the  gate  of  entrance  to 
a  square  court  inclosed  by  substantial  walls  constructed  of 
hewn  coral,  on  the  right  of  which  stood  the  house  of  the 
Mandarin ;  which  being  thrown  entirely  open,  by  the  re- 
moval of  the  sliding  pannels,  possessed,  in  addition  to 
coolness,  the  very  great  advantage  of  excluding  the 
rabble.  This  building  is  situated  immediately  upon  the 
angle  which  connects  the  town  by  another  causeway, 
and  is,  in  fact,  the  only  landing  place  to  the  town  at  low 
water,  the  interior  being  laid  dry  by  the  ebb.  At  the 
gate  we  were  received  by  three  Mandarins  in  state,  and 
conducted  to  the  Chief  within  the  walls,  who  not  only 
went  through  the  customary  obeisance,  but  shook  hands 
in  the  English  style,  and  taking  both  my  hands  in  his, 
conducted  me  to  my  place  at  a  small  table,  at  which  he 
first  seated  himself  beside  me,  but  shortly  after  retired, 
leaving  us  to  be  attended  by  the  others.  This,  I  suspect, 
was  in  order  to  make  arrangements  outside  about  the 
changes  which  were  to  be  made  in  the  courses.  The 
wine  was,  as  usual,  a  species  of  weak  whiskey,  their 
sake,  about  half  the  strength  of  the  customary  Hollands, 
in  which  they  occasionally  pledged  us.*  Boys  were  in 

*  These  had  red  hatchee-matchees,  which  I  was  informed  designated 
the  Students  of  the  College — as  well  as  secretaries. 


1845.]         RAMBLE  IN  THE  COUNTRY.  61 

attendance  with  fans  to  cool  us,  as  well  as  to  drive 
away  the  flies.  After  having  partaken  of  refreshments, 
the  trays  were  removed,  and  train  bearers  entered,  placing 
before  each  of  the  guests  a  wooden  tray,  containing  small 
presents  of  the  productions  of  Loo-Choo,  each  tray  labelled 
with  the  name  of  the  Officer,  and  containing  the  list  of  con- 
tents. They  consisted  of  specimens  of  silk,  of  six  varieties, 
but  of  very  poor  material ;  six  pieces  of  stout  cotton,  very 
coarse,  and  evidently  printed  by  block;  fans,  paper, 
umbrellas,  and  ajar  of  Sake,  and  were  sent  off  to  the  ship 
the  day  following,  by  one  of  their  boats.  Our  repast  con- 
cluded with  tea,  after  which  I  was  very  agreeably  surprised 
by  the  question,  "  Would  I  like  to  take  a  walk,  to  see 
the  country  ?  "  As  this  could  only  be  effected  by  going 
directly  through  the  town  of  Napa,  I  consented.  The 
crowd  was  not  troublesome  and  we  had  reached  the  end 
of  the  causeway,  leading  into  the  town,  when  I  recognized 
my  old  friend  and  ally  at  Pa-tchung-san,  Shanghai  (Beau- 
fort). He  was  manifestly  afraid  to  speak,  but  the  distress 
in  his  eye  was  too  evident.  I  stepped  out  from  my 
party,  and  shook  him  by  the  hand,  but  one  of  the  police 
in  the  most  brutal  manner,  raised  his  arm  to  strike  him, 
thinking,  possibly,  that  the  act  was  his  own.  My  up- 
raised arm  prevented  this  taking  effect,  but,  the  poor 
fellow  was  huddled  away  amongst  the  crowd,  and  I 
could  not  again  see  him. 

Entering  the  town,  we  suddenly  found  ourselves  in  the 
midst  of  the  market,  and  as  our  appearance  had  not  been 
foreseen,  we  found  the  damsels  scampering  in  every 
direction,  leaving  their  goods  to  the  mercy  of  the  males. 
This  was  the  only  opportunity  we  had  of  seeing  anything 


62  SHIP-BUILDING.  [1845. 

like  comeliness  in  the  lower  orders ;  and  some  of  these 
were  not  to  be  despised.  Many  of  the  elders  not  gifted 
with  charms,  quietly  sat  still,  with  their  backs  towards 
us,  pretending  to  be  engaged  in  other  matters,  and  gene- 
rally screened  by  some  well-meaning  male.  From  the 
fair  supply  of  produce  noticed  in  this  market,  and  the 
persons  engaged  in  purchases  we  may  infer  that  the  use 
of  money  was  not  unknown ;  or  for  what  possible  end 
could  it  be  forbidden  ?  Our  ramble  carried  us  through 
the  town  of  Napa,  und  suburb  of  Pootsoong,  and  towards 
the  temple  where  my  friend  the  French  Padre  resided, 
returning  by  the  outer  line  of  the  town,  to  the  place  of 
disembarcation. 

I  think  there  were  six  junks  in  the  harbour,  at  the 
time  of  our  visit ;  they  were  all  of  Japanese  build,  and 
of  their  peculiar  model.  Two,  in  particular,  appeared  to 
be  very  neatly  built  and  equipped,  and  bore  the  Satsuma 
emblem  on  their  banners,  as  well  as  the  quarters.  They 
have  been  designated  by  some  as  wanting  in  beauty. 
How  has  this  varied  within  the  short  period  of  my  own 
nautical  experience !  When  Seppings  first  modelled  his 
circular  sterns,  how  unsightly  they  were  declared !  But 
strict  utility  has  taken  the  lead,  and  from  the  bow  of 
1810,  even  of  our  then  clippers,  who  would  have  believed 
that  in  1840  the  Symond  build  would  almost  have 
changed  the  features  of  our  navy  ?  Again,  in  the  former 
period,  the  extreme  beam  was  retained  about  one-third 
from  the  stem,  tapering  aft ;  latterly,  the  beam,  as  in 
some  of  our  most  powerful  vessels,  has  been  carried  well 
aft,  in  conformity  with  Chinese  models. 

The  Japanese  models,  now  before  us,  differ  in  toto 


1845.]  AT  JAPAN.  63 

from  anything  which  I  have  seen ;  their  extreme  width 
appears  to  be  about  one-third  from  aft,  tapering  directly, 
and  by  a  very  sharp  wedge-shaped  rising  bow,  the  after- 
third  rounded  off  not  ungracefully,  although  fully,  to  the 
stern.  In  conformity  with  this  build,  in  vessels  not  more 
than  300  tons,  the  mast,  which  is  of  large  dimensions 
(twenty-eight  to  thirty  inches  diameter),  is  stepped  abaft 
the  centre  of  the  vessel,  having  a  slight  rake  aft,  and  de- 
pending almost  for  its  entire  security,  on  a  powerful  stay, 
apparently  adapted  for  a  triangular  sail,  but  none  has 
ever  been  seen  upon  it.  The  only  sail  observed,  was 
a  huge  square  one,  composed  of  narrow  widths,  of  a 
very  flimsy  canvas,  not  sewed  together,  as  in  our  sails, 
but  laced,  so  as  to  be  reduced  at  pleasure,  by  taking 
off  cloths  instead  of  reefing.  This  I  noticed  in  the  smaller 
boats  off  Nangasaki,  where  the  sail  appeared  to  traverse 
by  rings  on  the  yard,  and  to  be  divisible  into  four  parts, 
In  the  vessels  now  under  inspection,  they  were  in  not 
less  than  eighty.  As  the  outer  cloths  were  securely 
attached  to  their  bolt-ropes  I  can  only  surmise,  that  in 
reefing  by  this  vertical  method,  the  middle  cloths  are 
removed. 

The  rudder  is  similar  to  that  in  use  amongst  the 
Chinese,  but  the  tiller  is  about  one-third  the  length  of 
the  vessel,  and  the  rudder  being  triced  up  in  port,  makes 
this  appear  as  an  additional  spar.  The  exterior  of  these 
vessels  was  very  neatly  finished,  and  payed  with  a  coat 
of  clear  varnish ;  most  of  her  metal  fittings  appeared  to  be 
of  copper ;  and  abaft,  where  our  quarter  badges  would  be 
placed,  they  were  ornamented  by  a  light  lattice  work, 
obliquely  forward,  or  diamond  fashion.  Having  read  so 


64  CUSTOM  HOUSE.  [1845. 

much  of  the  unwieldiness  and  unmanagableness  of  these 
vessels  at  sea,  I  am  totally  at  a  loss  to  account  for  it  from 
their  build.  It  must,  therefore,  depend  on  the  enormous 
mast,  the  great  surface  of  rudder  exposed  to  the  waves, 
or  to  the  want  of  triangular  sails  of  good  canvas,  to 
enable  them  to  work  to  wind-ward.  Under  English 
management,  or  under  the  supposition  that  I  had  met 
with  one  of  these  vessels  in  distress  at  sea,  I  have  not 
the  slightest  doubt  that  we  should  have  found  her  trim, 
and  got  sailing  out  of  her  by  adapting  lighter  spars ;  for 
from  her  very  extraordinary  build,  I  am  perfectly  satis- 
fied (having  witnessed  the  same  models  on  a  smaller  scale 
impelled  by  sculls,)  that  they  are  not  wanting  in  velocity, 
if  properly  handled. 

The  vessels  I  am  now  speaking  of,  are  not  to  be  con- 
founded with  the  unwieldy  Chinese  junks,  which  are 
also  navigated  between  Japan,  Loo-Choo,  and  China. 
The  only  comparison  which  would  at  all  approximate,  is 
the  Lorcha  of  Macao,  or  the  pilot  boats  that  look  out 
off  the  Ladrones  for  vessels  bound  to  Canton  river ;  and 
it  is  well  known  these  vessels  sail  remarkably  well. 

Our  examination  was  not  entirely  confined  to  the 
water ;  the  masonry  and  general  construction  of  what  we 
have  hitherto  viewed  as  their  defences,  excited  my  in- 
terest. The  entire  work  of  the  tongue  of  masonry, 
extending  sea-ward,  from  what  I  assumed  to  be  the 
Custom-house,  is  faced  with  accurately  squared  blocks  of 
the  Coralline  limestone,  which  abounds  on  the  coast-line ; 
but  from  the  very  confined  space  between  the  walls  and 
its  unfitness  for  purposes  of  defence,  I  am  not  disposed 
to  attribute  any  design  of  this  nature  in  its  construction. 


1S45.]  COLLEGES.  65 

In  the  first  place,  it  is  too  high  for  men  or  guns  to  fire 
over,  and  in  the  next,  it  is  not  more  than  eighteen  inches 
in  thickness :  far  too  slight  to  withstand  either  the  con- 
cussion from  their  own  artillery,  or  to  resist  an  attacking 
force.  The  work  opposite,  westerly,  is  liable  to  an  equal 
objection.  It  has  the  same  thickness  of  wall,  but  suffi- 
ciently low  to  fire  over,  without  affording  any  protection 
to  its  defenders.  The  works  noticed  at  Japan,  were  even 
worse,  as  from  the  clear  view  which  we  had  of  their 
batteries,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  entrance,  the  para- 
pet did  not  appear  to  rise  more  than  a  foot,  if  so  much. 

The  characters  in  use  by  the  people  of  the  Meia-co- 
shimas  and  Loo-Choo,  could  not  be  comprehended  by  our 
interpreter,  although  upon  a  very  close  scrutiny,  by  others 
at  Hong-Kong,  it  was  pronounced  to  be  a  species  of  Chinese 
running  hand,  sometimes  practised  by  the  merchants.  It 
bears  no  resemblance  whatever  to  the  Japanese  character. 

At  Japan,  Quelpart,  as  well  as  Loo-Choo,  colleges  are 
established  for  the  education  of  the  upper  classes ;  the 
established  language  of  the  schools,  in  all  cases,  being 
that  of  the  court-dialect  of  China.  In  this  language  all 
official  correspondence  to  strangers  is  framed,  as  we  found 
in  all  the  places  visited,  and  which  were  afterwards  trans- 
lated at  Hong-Kong.  The  students  at  these  institutions 
have  peculiar  dresses,  probably  arranged  by  the  state ; 
those  of  Japan  were  pointed  out  by  a  bluish-grey  mantle, 
and  those  of  Loo-Choo,  by  a  kind  of  dark-coloured  cas- 
sock, with  upright  collar  and  red  hatchee-matchee  caps. 
These,  at  our  state  entertainment,  performed  the  duties 
of  attendants.  The  material  of  the  cap  or  Hatchee- 
matchee,  appeared  to  be  of  coarser  texture,  and  a  duller 

VOL.  IT.  F 


66  WANT  OF  CLEANLINESS.  [1845 

red  than  those  worn  by  the  other  authorities,  or  secretaries, 
who  are  also  entitled  to  this  distinction ;  those  only 
wearing  purple  or  yellow  are  entitled  to  high  rank.  The 
remark,  that  the  same  written  character,  of  the  Chinese, 
is  understood  in  Korea,  Japan,  Loo-Choo,  or  China, 
although  different  in  expression  of  sounds,  ceases  to 
become  a  subject  for  speculation  if  we  consider  the 
Chinese  language  as  merely  an  elaborate  painting.  The 
language  of  flowers  is  fully  understood  throughout  the 
East,  however  great  may  be  the  variation  in  the  oral  ex- 
pressions made  use  of  to  represent  the  same  idea.  Two 
cases,  clearly  in  point,  will  illustrate  these  remarks,  as  to 
the  Chinese  court  dialect.  Our  interpreter  was  unable 
to  converse  viva  voce,  with  any  of  the  people  we  met,  ex- 
cepting the  learned  in  his  language,  and  yet  neither  party 
was  at  a  loss  to  make  themselves  understood  by  the  in- 
tervention of  paper  and  ink.  The  use,  therefore,  of  the 
Chinese  written  character  at  Loo-Choo,  cannot  be  assumed 
as  involving  the  question  of  the  subjection  of  these  Islands 
to  China,  any  more  than  the  numerous  French  terms  in 
our  public  courts,  or  records,  would  imply  our  depen- 
dence upon  that  power. 

At  the  periods  of  the  visits  of  foreigners,  the  superior 
classes,  alone,  are  probably  better  dressed,  and  are  per- 
mitted to  mix  with  the  strangers ;  but  having  had  some  ex- 
perience in  these  matters,  having  almost  lived  with  the 
people  of  the  Meia-co-shimas  for  six  weeks,  having  travelled 
into  the  interior  of  Loo-Choo,  and  taken  the  people  un- 
awares, in  their  customary  habits,  having  closely  watched 
the  Koreans,  Japanese,  &c.,  I  am  not  disposed  to  accord  to 
any  of  them  the  characters  of  neatness,  cleanliness,  or 
purity  of  morals.  I  believe  them  to  be  less  cleanly  than 


1845.]  DIET.  67 

the  Chinese,  who  may  be  generally  noticed  at  the  doors 
of  their  houses,  after  sun-set,  making  every  effort  to  wash 
off  the  accumulation  of  the  day.  I  never  witnessed  any 
such  attempt  at  extensive  ablutions  amongst  any  of  the 
island  races,  and  when  they  have  by  chance  exposed  the 
skin,  it  presented  a  coarseness  which  indicated  frequent, 
if  not  complete,  exposure ;  I  am,  therefore,  strongly  of 
opinion  that  their  customary  garb  is  but  scanty.  This, 
too,  I  assume  to  be  one  of  the  most  important  objections 
to  our  visit ;  the  necessity  of  perpetual  dress  and  watch- 
fulness must  be  most  irksome,  and,  probably,  with  their 
limited  means,  expensive.  The  working-classes  are  inva- 
riably in  such  a  tattered,  filthy  state,  that  one  naturally 
avoids  them,  fearing  the  effects  of  contact.  From  frequent 
intercourse,  we  found  our  attendants  insensibly  drop  into 
our  habits,  (and  their  own  naturally),  of  wearing  straw 
hats ;  and  before  leaving  Loo-Choo,  three  varieties  were 
procured  for  me  of  very  substantial  manufacture. 

As  we  had  not  an  opportunity  of  examining  the  display 
in  their  market,  or  of  ascertaining  their  general  resources 
for  subsistence,  we  can  only  refer  to  such  articles  as  came 
immediately  under  our  notice.  I  think,  however,  that  from 
my  experience  during  my  former  visit  in  the  '  Blossom ', 
in  1827,  coupled  with  the  present,  added  to  the  frequent 
display  of  the  contents  of  their  canteens,  I  may  give  a 
tolerable  guess  as  to  their  general  travelling  diet.  I  do 
not  on  any  occasion  remember  to  have  fallen  in  with  meat ; 
fowls,  cut  into  small  pieces,  rice,  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  Sepia, 
Octopus,  varieties  of  shell  fish,  pickles,  or  rather  vegetables 
cured  in  salt,  cut  up  small,  and  mixed  together,  predomi- 
nated as  the  contents  of  one  vessel ;  sweetmeats  and  rice 

F  "2 


68  FRUIT.  [1845- 

cakes  in  others,  concluding  with  diminutive  white-metal 
pots,  containing  Sake.  The  tea  equipage  constituted  a  sepa- 
rate canteen,  and  this  preparation  was  of  the  lowest  scale 
of  Chinese  produce.  It  is  true  that  they  cultivate  the 
tea  plant  in  Loo-Choo,  but  they  explained  with  a  contor- 
tion of  countenance,  that  it  was  unfit  for  the  consumption 
of  the  upper  classes. 

The  market,  according  to  our  French  friend,  affords 
the  customary  vegetables  to  be  met  with  at  Macao,  ex- 
cepting those  resulting  from  European  seeds.  Pumpkins, 
Melons,  Cucumbers,  Peaches,  Pears,  Figs,  Brinjoles, 
Vegetable  Marrow,  Indian  Corn,  Beans,  Sweet  Potatoes, 
Eggs,  Fowls,  Hogs  and  Bullocks,  were  amongst  the  sup- 
plies sent  off  to  the  ship;  and  although  they  express 
themselves  as  a  very  poor  people,  I  saw  enough  of  their 
ground  under  cultivation,  as  well  as  of  the  quantity  of 
green  looking  substance  in  the  evening  market,  to  feel 
that  the  poverty  must  depend  on  the  circulating  medium. 

Upon  the  eve  of  departure,  the  following  document 
was  presented,  but  it  was  fully  understood  that  it  was  a 
formality  that  they  were  compelled  to  observe,  and  that 
if  we  should  return,  that  it  had  better  be  to  Loo-Choo 
than  to  the  Meia-co-shimas,  "  as  they  had  more  Mandarins 
to  help  us  at  Loo-Choo." 

OFFICIAL  DOCUMENT. 

The  duly  prepared  petition  of  Ching-yuen-kin,  the  acting  local  Officer 
of  the  Napa  Keang  Territory,  earnestly  beseeching  that  a  stop  may  be 
put  to  Surveying,  in  order  to  set  at  rest  the  minds  of  the  people. 

According  to  the  reports  from  the  local  authorities  at  the  two  Islands 
of  Tai-ping  and  Pa-tchung,  of  the  past  year,  Kwei-maou  (1844)  to  the 
eflfect  that  a  vessel  belonging  to  the  Great  English  Nation  had  arrived, 
from  which  many  men  had  landed,  and  during  several  tens  of  davs 


1845.]  OFFICIAL  DOCUMENT.  69 

employed  themselves  in  sounding  the  depths  of  the  sea,  and  measuring 
the  extent  of  the  land. 

That,  although  among  the  Englishmen  there  had  been  hitherto  pro- 
priety of  conduct,  among  the  natives  there  existed  great  apprehension ; 
so  much  so,  that  they  had  neglected  their  customary  occupations,  and 
were  in  a  state  of  much  consequent  distress. 

Again;  during  the  fifth  month  of  the  present  year  (June,  1845) 
the  local  authorities  of  the  dependencies  of  Pa-chung  and  Na  Territory 
(Y-nah-koo),  made  a  similar  statement. 

When  these  reports  from  first  to  last  reached  me,  I  reflected  that  our 
mean  country  is  in  an  inferior  state  of  cultivation,  and  of  small  extent ; 
all  our  islands,  likewise,  are  not  large,  there  is  no  abundance  of  pro- 
ductions, and  they  are  scarcely  sufficient  to  maintain  life,  and  when 
storms  and  droughts  occur,  we  are  reduced  to  the  utmost  straights. 

I  would  therefore  petition  your  Excellency  to  view  the  sufferings  of 
our  small  country  with  a  condescending  eye,  and  in  the  exercise  of 
that  benevolence  and  tenderness  which  so  well  becomes  a  great  nation, 
in  its  dealings  with  one  so  much  its  inferior,  to  desist  from  sailing  round 
the  islands,  and  the  measuring  of  the  territory.  So  from  this  country, 
as  a  centre,  to  the  most  remote  of  its  dependent  islets,  shall  the  people 
at  their  peaceful  occupations,  beseech  Heaven  to  shower  unnumbered 
blessings  on  the  heads  of  their  benefactors. 

This  is  an  earnest  petition. 

A  respectful  petition  from  Ching-yuen-kin,  acting  Officer,  of  the 
Napa  Keang  Territory. 

Taokwang,  twenty-fifth  year,  seventh  month,  twentieth  day. 

(20th  August,  1845.) 

Several  considerations  naturally  arise  upon  the  face  of 
this  document. 

In  the  first  instance,  we  are  assured  of  the  subjection 
of  the  Meia-co-shimas.  In  the  second,  we  have  the 
acting  Officer  in  the  command  of  the  southern  district  of 
Loo-Choo,  clearly  taking  into  his  own  hands  the  adminis- 
tration of  this  affair  without  allusion  to  any  superior  \ 


70  TRIBUTE  TO  CHINA.  [1845. 

and  I  was  assured  from  the  parties  who  delivered  it  in 
state,  that  it  was  from  •'  their  Emperor",  to  be  construed 
Ruler ;  and  yet  this  Ruler,  calling  himself  merely  acting 
local  officer,  despatched  to  meet  me  on  my  return  from 
Japan  (and  who  entertained  me  on  shore),  assumes  the 
supreme  authority.  Again,  we  hear  of  the  tribute  sent 
from  these  islands  to  China  and  to  Japan :  silver,  gold, 
and  other  valuable  articles.  From  whence,  with  their 
repeated  assertions  of  poverty,  nay,  almost  destitution,  is 
this  tribute  to  be  collected?  Mines,  they  have  none, 
that  we  are  aware  of,  and  viewing  the  country  with  a 
geological  eye,  I  am  unable  to  trace  any  metalliferous 
rock.  As  soon,  judging  from  its  crust,  would  I  seek  for 
the  precious  metals  in  Bermuda. 

It  is  highly  probable,  as  I  before  suggested,  in  the 
case  of  the  Meia-co-shimas,  and  from  the  ruined  fortress 
on  the  summit  above  Sheudi,  the  same  argument  will 
apply,  that  the  tribute  from  these  regions  in  olden  times 
resulted  in  the  piracies  committed  by  those  frequenting 
these  islands ;  and  that  as  these  powers  were  suppressed, 
their  glory  has  faded  until  the  present  day.  It  is  most 
likely  that  when  China  ceased  to  send  warlike  expeditions 
from  her  shores,  they  quietly  fell  under  the  sway  of 
Japan,  which  has  probably  lent  her  protection  by  form- 
ing them  into  penal  settlements.  That  these  penal  set- 
tlements extend  as  far  south  as  the  scene  of  our  disaster, 
we  know,  as  a  chief,  with  two  swords,  was  met  there, 
who  wished  to  escape  to  the  '  Samarang ',  such,  at  least, 
was  the  impression  of  my  Coxswain,  who  was  sent  to 
examine  the  bay  for  water ;  but  the  swamping  of  the  gig 
and  loss  of  instruments,  prevented  my  making  further 
examination. 


71 


CHAPTER  XII. 

HONG-KONG  AND  THE  PHILIPPINES. 

Leave  Loo-Choo — Touch  at  Pa-tchung-san — Botel  Tobago — Arrive  at 
Hong-Kong — Refit  and  sail  for  Batan — Fall  in  with  a  Bremen 
wreck — Keach  Manila — Nicholas  Shoal — Make  Term  Day  Mag- 
netic Observations — Arsenal  of  Cavite — Fortune  Island — Looc  Bay 
— Lay  in  a  store  of  wood — Fever  caused  by  the  fermentation  of 
wood  when  damp — Apo  Island — Fall  in  with  a  nest  of  Pirates. 
Island  of  Mindoro — Skirmish  in  the  Bay  of  Ylin — Convenience 
for  obtaining  supplies — Town  of  Mangarin — Garza  Island — Semi- 
rara — Pirate  Island — Panagatan  Group — Shoal  of  fish —  Caga- 
yancillo  —  Inhabitants — Structure  of  the  Island — Calusa — Sam- 
boanga — Inland  Excursion — Country  round  Samboanga — Exami- 
nation of  Shoals  extending  from  the  Santa  Cruz  Islands — 
Courtesy  of  the  Governor,  Colonel  Figueroa. 

ON  the  22nd  of  August  we  took  our  final  leave  of  the 
French  Padre  and  our  Loo-Choo  friends,  arid  as  our 
supply  of  provisions  would  not  allow  of  any  deviation 
from  the  shortest  route,  we  were  compelled  to  abandon 
all  further  examination  of  the  Raleigh  rock,  Tia-usu,  and 
islands  adjacent.  Our  course  was,  therefore,  shaped  for 
Pa-tchung-san,  which,  after  a  short  run  of  four  days,  we 
reached  on  the  morning  of  the  26th,  anchoring  in  Port 


72  RETURN  TO  THE  MEIA-CO-SHIMAS.  [1845. 

Haddington  about  8,  A.M.,  and  having  obtained  observa- 
tions for  the  Chronometers,  sailed  the  same  evening. 

Our  friend  Kieu-Anchee  was,  I  thought,  rather  tardy 
in  making  his  appearance,  but  on  his  arrival,  he  endea- 
voured to  explain  this  apparent  inattention,  by  stating 
that  it  arose  from  his  anxiety  to  keep  a  promise  which  he 
had  made,  to  procure  two  monster  specimens  of  the 
large  furbelowed  Clam  (Tridacna  gigas),  and  which  he 
informed  me,  his  people  would  shortly  bring  to  the  beach. 
His  apparent  coolness,  which  I  attributed  mainly  to  fresh 
instructions  from  Loo-Choo,  soon  wore  off,  and  I  thought 
that  I  could  trace  a  certain  nervousness,  or  a  fluctuation 
between  duty  and  friendship,  the  latter  certainly  predomi- 
nating. He  would  scarcely  credit  my  resolve  to  sail  im- 
mediately, and  left  me  very  precipitately  to  obtain  vege- 
tables, and  other  little  presents,  as  well  as  to  hasten  those 
conveying  the  shells.  Time,  however,  was  too  valuable 
to  us,  and  without  the  satisfaction  of  a  formal  leave-taking 
we  were  soon  distancing  the  port,  and,  with  a  fine  breeze, 
cleared  the  dangers  before  dark. 

The  breeze  deserted  us  on  rounding  the  western  dan- 
gers, and  between  these  islands  and  the  southern  limit  of 
Formosa,  we  were  harassed  by  contrary  currents  and 
light  baffling  airs,  reaching  Botel  Tobago  on  the  30th. 

In  this  neighbourhood  we  continued  to  make  many 
traverses,  taking  advantage  of  every  change  in  order  to 
cross  the  position  assigned  to  Gadd's  Rock,  or  Cumbrian 
Reef;  but  without  noticing  the  slightest  indication  of 
ripple  or  breaker,  sufficiently  distinct  to  warrant  the  idea 
of  a  shoal.  The  sea  was  perfectly  smooth,  and  as  our 
latest  authority,  Captain  Ross,  assigns  a  depth  of  twelve 


1845.]  SAN  DOMINGO.  73 

feet  over  it,  I  imagine  that  it  only  breaks  in  rough  wea- 
ther. Soundings  of  300  fathoms  were  obtained  on  one 
occasion.  The  currents  proving  too  strong  for  the  pre- 
vailing winds,  and  having  made  several  fruitless  attempts 
to  clear  the  Vele  Rete  rocks,  endangering  us  constantly, 
in  the  event  of  calm,  of  drifting  either  on  them  or  Botel 
Tobago,  I  determined,  after  seven  days  detention,  on 
making  southing,  and  obtaining  a  fresh  departure  for  our 
Meridian  distance  from  the  Batan  Islands. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  September,  T  joined  the 
'  Royalist '  with  the  Chronometer,  and  leaving  the  '  Sama- 
rang '  to  make  her  way  to  the  westward,  reached  San 
Domingo  in  time  for  the  Observations.  However,  not  much 
progress  was  made  by  the  'Samarang,'  for  the  next  day,  at 
noon,  the  breeze  had  barely  enabled  her  to  hold  her  own, 
about  four  miles  to  the  westward  of  the  town,  where  we 
rejoined,  and  pursued  our  course  more  satisfactorily,  taking 
advantage  of  the  southerly  current  between  Batan  and 
Sabtan,  after  which  I  knew  that  we  should  fall  into  the  pre- 
vailing set  to  the  south-west.  I  would  strongly  advise 
vessels  similarly  circumstanced,  to  lose  no  time  with  an 
adverse  wind  in  the  vicinity  of  Formosa  and  Botel  Tobago, 
as  the  currents  setting  to  leaward  neutralise  what  would 
otherwise  be  deemed  a  fair  working  breeze.  Whereas, 
by  standing  boldly  to  the  southward  until  attaining 
the  Latitude  of  the  S.W.  point  of  Ibayat,  the  south- 
westerly current  will  be  gained.  Had  I  been  free  in 
my  choice,  I  should,  without  hesitation,  have  steered 
direct  for  Batan,  in  the  first  instance,  and  reaching  it  on 
the  1st  of  September,  have  gained,  at  the  very  least,  five 
days. 


74  HONG-KONG.  [1845. 

Nothing  worthy  of  notice  occurring,  we  reached 
Hong-Kong  on  the  14th,  where  we  found  the  '  Castor ', 
'  Vixen' ,'  Driver ',  and  'Espiegle'.  Capt.  Graham,  of 
the  'Castor',  still  Senior  Officer.  On  the  15th,  the 
Admiral  made  his  appearance  in  the  'Agincourt',  ac- 
companied by  the  'Vestal',  Capt.  Talbot,  'Daedalus', 
Capt.  M'c  Quhaee,  and  Wolverine,  last  from  Manila, 
but  previously  from  the  expedition  to  Maludu  Bay,  where 
the  stronghold  of  Seriff  Hoosman,  before  alluded  to  in 
this  work,  was  destroyed  by  the  boats  of  the  Squadron, 
under  the  command  of  Capt.  Talbot  of  the  '  Vestal ', 
and  Capt.  Lyster,  of  the  '  Agincourt '.  Our  refit  having 
been  completed,  we  quitted  Hong-Kong  on  the  1st  of 
November,  accompanied  by  the  '  Royalist ',  our  first  ren- 
dezvous being  San  Domingo,  Batan.  On  the  evening  of 
the  3rd,  when  near  the  Pratas  Shoals,  a  sharp  gale  set 
in  from  the  N.E.,  which  continued  to  increase,  parting 
us  from  the  '  Royalist ' ;  this  prevailed  until  the  9th, 
and  on  the  19th,  we  anchored  at  Batan ;  as  the  '  Royalist ' 
was  not  there,  and  did  not  arrive  during  our  stay,  I 
began  to  feel  rather  anxious  about  her.  Before  com- 
municating with  the  shore,  the  authorities  sent  off, 
apprizing  me  that  the  Bremen  brig,  'Express',  from 
Mazatlan,  bound  to  China,  had  been  wrecked  in  the  Bay 
of  Manan'ioy,  on  the  eastern  side  of  Batan,  but  that  the 
crew  and  property  were  safe.  I  had  already  sent  to  offer 
assistance,  and  the  conveyance  of  her  crew  to  Manila, 
when  her  supercargo,  Mr.  Vischer,  came  to  pay  his 
respects,  and  to  request  that  I  would  receive  his  cargo, 
consisting  of  specie  to  the  amount  of  85,000  dollars, 
which  had  been  saved.  To  our  mutual  surprise  and 


1845.]  WRECK  OF  A  BREMEN  BRIG.  75 

gratification,  he  proved  to  belong  to  the  firm  of  Kayser 
Hayn,  and  Co.,  of  Mazatlan  and  Acapulco,  to  the  princi- 
pals of  which  I  had  been  under  great  obligation  during  my 
visits  to  those  ports  in  the  '  Sulphur ',  and  Mr.  Vischer 
and  myself  had  also  met  under  peculiar  circumstances  at 
Manzanilla.  After  very  few  communications  relative  to 
his  disaster,  he  was  assured  of  a  home  on  board  the 
'  Samarang ',  as  well  as  passage  for  his  crew,  &c.,  to 
Manila;  and  taking  into  consideration  the  absence  of 
any  other  authority,  measures  were  immediately  adopted 
for  the  security  of  his  cargo  saved. 

Previous  to  my  arrival,  an  engagement  had  been 
entered  into  by  a  young  Spaniard,  belonging  to  the 
province  of  Ilocos  al  Norte,  to  purchase  the  hull  and  gear 
of  the  brig,  and  to  carry  the  Master,  crew  and  Super- 
cargo, for  a  stipulated  sum  in  a  native  vessel  to  Manila. 
Interference,  on  my  part,  was  delicate,  but  the  Super- 
cargo preferred  accompanying  his  freight  in  a  sound 
bottom,  consenting  still  to  pay  the  stipulated  agree- 
ment, if  the  vessel  was  found  fit,  and  that  he  would 
not  flinch  from  any  part  of  his  contract  if  his  master  and 
crew  would  consent  to  risk  their  lives  with  the  con- 
tractor, or,  failing  in  this,  the  original  forfeiture,  as 
agreed,  of  half  the  amount.  It  is  necessary,  in  order  to 
comprehend  this  matter,  properly,  to  understand,  that 
unless  this  vessel  could  be  safely  navigated  to  Manila  by 
the  Bremen  crew,  that  the  sum  agreed  on  for  the  wreck 
(the  valuable  parts  of  which  were  to  be  embarked)  would 
not  be  forthcoming ;  in  fact,  that  the  sum  offered,  was 
upon  this  condition. 

It  was  apparent  to  the  eye  of  any  seaman  that  the  vessel 


76  BATAN.  [1845. 

was  unfit  and  unsafe,  and  further,  that  the  lives  of  the 
Bremen  crew  would  be  jeoparded.  Still  the  Bremeners 
most  handsomely  declared  that  they  would  stick  by  their 
friend  so  long  as  a  fair  chance  remained  of  fulfilling  his 
contract ;  and  to  prevent  risk  on  all  sides,  as  well  as  to 
afford  assistance,  our  crew  aided  in  getting  the  vessel  into 
the  water.  When  this  was  effected,  and  after  great  diffi- 
culty, she  was  secured  in  the  anchorage  of  San  Vicente, 
near  Ivana,  it  was  found  perfectly  impossible  to  proceed 
in  her ;  arranging  their  money  affairs,  therefore,  very  much 
I  believe  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties,  the  Bremeners 
joined  the  '  Samarang '  with  lighter  hearts,  and  our  own 
immediate  affairs  settled,  we  quitted  this,  our  pet  island, 
on  the  30th  of  November.  As  the  breeze,  during  the 
night  and  succeeding  day,  gave  us  a  velocity  of  between 
eight  and  ten  knots,  under  small  canvas,  our  friends 
congratulated  themselves  on  what  they  deemed  an  escape. 
Up  to  the  period  of  departure,  there  were  no  signs  of 
the  'Royalist',  but  having  given  Manila,  as  well  as 
Hong-Kong,  as  secondary  rendezvous,  in  the  event  of 
accident  to  spars,  which  was  suspected,  I  still  looked  for 
her  at  the  port  we  were  now  bound  for.  In  this  I  was 
not  mistaken,  as  we  found,  on  being  boarded  by  the  guard- 
boat,  passing  the  Corregidor,  that  her  arrival  was  notified 
some  days  before,  and  on  our  passing  Cavite,  on  the  6th 
of  December,  her  signal  was  descried  at  her  mast-head, 
showing  over  the  Arsenal.  Calms  and  variable  winds 
prevented  dropping  anchor  off  Manila  until  late  that 
evening,  but  on  the  arrival  of  her  Commander,  Lieut. 
Ogle,  he  acquainted  me,  that  in  the  gale  experienced  off 
the  Pratas,  he  had  sprung  his  fore-mast  badly,  and 


1845.]  SAN  NICOLAS  SHOALS.  77 

parted  his  bobstays,  and  finding  it  impossible  to  preserve 
his  spars  under  the  heavy  head  sea  which  prevailed,  he 
had  run  hither  to  repair  damages.     He  also  acquainted 
me  with  the  very  great  courtesy  which  he  had  experienced 
from  the  Governor  of  Manila,  and  the  Brigadier  command- 
ing the  Naval  forces  of  Spain  in  the  Philippines,  as  well 
as  the  kindness  and  facilities  afforded  him  by  Captain 
Villavicentio,    Commandant   of  the  Arsenal   at  Cavite. 
After  paying  my  respects  to   His  Excellency,  General 
Claveria,    Governor- General   of    the    Philippines,    and 
thanking  him  for  his  attention,  I  suggested  the  propriety 
of  making   a   minute  examination  of  the  San  Nicolas 
shoals,  which  at  this  moment  presented  new  features,  from 
the  failure  of  a  plan  conceived,  I  believe,  by    Capt. 
Salomon,  the  previous  Captain  of  the  port,  for  converting 
it  into  an  island.     This  was  to  be  effected  by  sinking  a 
vessel  charged  with  soil  and  young  Mangrove  trees,  im- 
mediately on  the  crest  of  the  bank,  on  which  there  was 
previously  ten  feet,  and  by  filling  around  her  with  stones 
it  was  hoped,  that  in  a  few  years,  the  coralline  zoo- 
phytes would  agglutinate  all  so  firmly,  that  a  conspicuous 
island,  and,  ultimately,  a  light-house  would  beacon  this 
danger.    Nature,  however,  rebelled,  leaving  a  pile  of  stones 
and  the  fluke  of  an  anchor,  over  which  there  is  now  about 
three  feet  at  low  water.    Permission  was  granted,  and 
during  our  detention  for  the  '  Royalist ',  the  boats  found 
occupation  in  outlining  this  new  bank. 

Great  difficulty  was  experienced  in  meeting  with  a 
spar  fit  to  replace  the  injured  fore-mast ;  several  were 
tried,  but  proved  unsound,  and  as  her  old  mast  was  too 
heavy,  and  none  but  those  of  treble  its  density  could  be 


78  DETENTION  AT  Bt  ANIL  A.  [1845. 

met  with,  it  was  at  length  determined  to  remedy  the 
defective  one,  by  adding  hard  wood  head  and  cheeks. 
This  was  effected  about  the  2nd  of  January,  1846,  and 
on  the  4th,  the  '  Royalist '  rejoined  us,  ready  for  sea. 
By  the  kindness  of  the  authorities  we  were  permitted  to 
make  our  term-day  Magnetic  Observations  at  the  end  of 
the  Commandant's  garden,  in  the  Arsenal  of  Cavite ;  the 
entire  ground  about  Manila  being  charged  with  old  guns, 
&c.,  which  vitiated  the  results.  After  which,  having 
completed  our  stores  at  Manila,  we  took  our  final  leave 
of  Manila  Bay  on  the  1  Oth.  During  the  greater  part  of 
our  detention,  the  '  Samarang '  had  anchored  immediately 
off  the  Arsenal  at  Cavite,  in  order  to  afford  the  aid  of 
our  carpenters  and  armourers,  in  the  refit  of  the 
'  Royalist.'  During  the  whole  of  this  period,  both  Lieut, 
Ogle  and  myself  received  the  most  marked  hospitality 
and  kindness  from  Capt.  Villavicentio,  as  well  as  every 
assistance  in  his  public  capacity  as  Commandant  of  the 
Arsenal.  To  him  I  am  also  indebted  for  most  important 
information  relative  to  the  Illaiion  pirates  about  the 
region  of  Mindanao,  as  well  as  directions  for  many  of  the 
harbours  visited  by  the  gun-boats,  and  which  were  almost 
unknown  or  entirely  omitted  upon  the  Charts  supplied 
to  us. 

I  cannot  take  leave  of  Manila  without  repeating  my 
expressions  of  gratitude  for  the  kindness  experienced 
from  my  friend  Mr.  Otadui,  particularly  in  my  commu- 
nications with  His  Excellency,  General  Claveria,  and  I  feel 
persuaded,  that  to  his  manner  of  interpreting  my  wishes,  I 
am  indebted  for  the  very  marked  favours  which  were  con- 
ceded. Manila  was,  indeed,  throughout  our  rambles  in 


1845.]  LOOC  BAY.  79 

this  part  of  the  world,  the  pleasantest  spot  we  frequented, 
and  to  the  society,  generally,  all  are  more  or  less  sensible 
of  many  pleasant  reminiscences. 

Quitting  Manila,  and  acting  upon  information  from 
the  Commandant  at  the  Corregidor,  we  searched  for 
a  shoal,  on  which  the  gun-boats  had  anchored,  near 
Fortune  Island,  and  before  sunset  that  evening  the 
'  Samarang '  and  barges  had  taken  up  their  stations,  in 
nineteen  fathoms,  precisely  agreeing  with  our  information. 
On  the  day  following,  during  our  detention  for  the 
'  Royalist ',  sent  to  Manila  for  final  despatches,  Observa- 
tions were  obtained  on  Fortune  Island,  and  the  following 
morning,  on  rejoining  her  we  stood  on  to  the  southward, 
in  search  of  a  new  harbour,  termed  Looc  Bay,  situated 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Island  of  Luban.  As  these 
islands  are  exhibited  on  a  very  small  scale  upon  the 
Charts,  no  one  would  dream  of  seeking  for  an  asylum  in 
such  an  unfrequented  spot ;  but  the  information  of  my 
Manila  friends  had  given  such  an  interest  to  this  locality 
that  I  determined  upon  its  examination,  as  it  possibly 
might  afford  shelter  to  distressed  vessel  coming  from 
the  Strait  of  St.  Bernardino,  and  exposed  to  the  "  nor- 
thers ",  which  are  frequently  experienced  on  opening  the 
great  Bay  of  Manila.  Our  visit  cleared  up  one  point 
which  might  have  proved  fatal  to  the  '  Royalist ',  as  she 
had  been  directed  to  pass  through  betweeii  Luban  and 
its  neighbour ;  a  passage  which  was  discovered  from  our 
mast-heads  to  be  completely  barred  by  rocks.  On  the 
morning  of  the  12th  of  January,  we  dropped  our  anchor 
in  Looc  *  Bay,  and  proceeded  with  its  survey.  On  the 

*  The  term  Looc,  is,  in  the  Malay  and  Bisayan  langague,  Bay, 


80  STOCK  AND  PROVISIONS.  [1845. 

day  following  I  visited  the  village  in  the  depth  of  the 
bay,  and  succeded  in  obtaining  wood,  water,  Bullocks, 
and  vegetables.  We  had  been  informed  that  Bullocks  and 
stock  would  be  met  with  here  in  greater  abundance  and 
perfection  than  at  our  garden  of  Eden,  Batan.  This  we 
found  to  be  totally  at  variance  with  fact,  as  well  as  the  dis- 
position of  the  population.  All  the  cattle  produced  were 
infinitely  inferior,  and  dearer ;  and  with  respect  to  vege- 
tables, Pumpkins  were  the  only  kind  to  be  obtained,  and 
those  not  without  some  difficulty.  The  supplies  at  this 
spot  may  possibly  depend  upon  the  notice  given,  and  are, 
doubtless,  kept  concealed  in  the  interior,  as  it  was  upon 
this  place  that  the  Illanons,  a  few  years  since,  made  a 
descent  over  the  neck  of  land,  which  is  accessible  from 
the  south,  ransacked  the  village,  and  carried  off  all  the 
marketable  boys  and  girls.  Our  arrival  there  on  the  first 
day  probably  excited  suspicion ;  but  when  we  did  pay  our 
visit,  we  found  the  prices  most  exorbitant,  fowls  being 
nearly  as  dear  as  in  Manila.  The  bay  is  pretty  free  from 
dangers  at  the  mouth,  and  good  holding  ground  will  be 
found  in  depths  between  ten  and  twenty  fathoms.  Within 
the  former  depth  it  suddenly  shoals,  and  several  lines  of 
coral  ledge  bar  the  inner  depths  of  the  bay  from  direct 
access,  although  excellent  shelter  would  be  found  by  a 
vessel  moored  between  these  barriers,  to  which  they 
might  easily  be  conducted.  At  the  village,  a  brisk  rivulet 
supplies  most  excellent  water ;  but  boats  cannot  fill  ex- 
cepting at  high  water.  We  found  large  stacks  of  very 
nicely  prepared  fire-wood,  probably  intended  for  Manila 

therefore,  Looc  Say  is  incorrect ;    as  the  town  is  patronized  by  San 
Rafael,  the  Bay  should  bear  his  name. 


1846.]  STORING  OF  WOOD.  81 

consumption,  and  as  as  it  was  very  reasonable  and  clean, 
we  completed  our  available  stowage  with  it. 

Those  who  are  curious  in  the  investigation  of  the 
causes  of  fever  and  other  attacks  to  which  seamen  are 
liable,  seem  to  have  overlooked  this,  one  of  the  most 
obvious  of  mischiefs,  on  shipboard.  In  the  year  1830, 
my  attention  was  directed  to  this  subject ;  in  the  fitting 
and  storing  of  H.M.S.  'JEtna',  not  a  single  article  of 
moist  wood,  or  other  matter  which  could  ferment  in  the 
holds,  was  permitted  to  be  embarked.  All  casks  were  de- 
prived of  wooden  hoops,  and  were  carefully  white-washed 
and  dried  (under  the  direction  of  Mr.,  now  Commander, 
Town,  at  Clarence  Victualling  Yard),  the  flour  was  packed 
in  water  casks,  and  the  dry  provision  in  tanks.  Great 
circumspection  was  exercised  throughout  the  period  which 
she  remained  under  my  command;  and  although  my 
predecessors,  Officers  and  crew,  in  the  '  Hecla '  died,  or 
were  invalided,  still  we  continued  healthy ;  and  but  one 
soul  died  in  the  course  of  three  years  and  a  half,  chiefly 
on  the  most  unhealthy  parts  of  Africa,  situated  between 
Sierra  Leone  and  the  Gambia;  and  this  man  was  a 
supernumerary.  Nearly  the  same  good  fortune  attended 
the  '  Sulphur ',  until  the  fever  of  China  attacked  those 
exposed  to  the  damp  ground  on  Canton  Heights.  I  am 
therefore  particular  in  alluding  to  this  purchase  of  dry 
wood,  an  acquisition  which  I  never  lost  sight  of,  and 
frequently,  nay,  invariably,  looked  after,  to  the  interest  of 
my  Purser,  as  well  as  of  my  crew.  I  feel  satisfied  that 
to  the  fermentation  resulting  from  the  Mangrove  bark, 
which  peels  off  on  drying,  and  falls  into  the  lower  part  of 
the  hold,  where  it  meets  with  other  moist  substances, 

VOL.  II.  G 


82  ISLAND  OF  LUBAN.  [1846. 

may  be  attributed  many  of  the  unaccountable  affections 
to  which  seamen  are  subject  in  tropical  climates. 

The  composition  of  the  shores  of  Luban,  as  far  as  we 
were  able  to  inspect  the  crust,  appeared  to  be  a  mixture 
of  clay  and  Mica  slates,  frequently  traversed  by '  dykes 
of  quartz,  and  occasionally  of  carbonate  of  Lime.  The 
northern  point  of  the  bay,  which  is  termed  Punta 
Tumbaga  (or  Copper  Point)  is  of  a  deep  greenish  hue, 
evidently  charged  with  the  oxide  of  this  metal,  and  in 
some  cases,  where  the  water  filters  through,  apparently 
in  the  state  of  the  blue  sulphate,  discolouring,  and  preci- 
pitating on,  the  point  of  my  penknife.  The  authorities 
at  Manila  designate  the  island  as  rich  "  in  minerals." 

Having  completed  our  examination  of  this  bay,  the 
ship  and  '  Royalist '  were  directed  to  pass  round  by  the 
eastern  end  of  Ambil,  and  pick  up  the  boats  before  en- 
tering the  passage  between  Luban  and  Isla  Cabras. 
Keeping  the  boats  under  my  direction,  we  proceeded 
within  the  islands,  examining  the  indentations  of  both  for 
fresh  water  or  anchorage,  which  I  had  been  informed 
were  to  be  found  convenient  on  the  western  side  of  Ambil. 
A  very  small  harbour  for  boats  was  noticed,  in  which  I 
observed  one  of  their  Faluas  at  anchor ;  but  as  the  spot 
was  insignificant,  I  did  not  lose  time  by  further  delay. 
About  noon,  we  were  abreast  of  a  very  large  village,* 
situated  in  the  northern  centre  of  Luban,  and,  as  we  had 
been  informed,  protected  from  northerly  gales  by  a  very 
extensive  coral  patch  very  near  the  water's  edge.  Never- 
theless I  should  have  hesitation  in  risking  one  of  Her 
Majesty's  Ships  in  such  a  very  exposed  situation.  Re- 
joining the  '  Samarang ',  and  favoured  by  a  gentle  breeze 

*  Tagbach. 


1 846.]  APO  ISLAND.  83 

and  the  most  beautiful  weather,  we  grazed  Cabras  Island 
and  rounded  to  under  its  southern  face,  continued  sur- 
veying its  southern  limits,  and  by  sunset  found  secure 
anchorage  under  its  lee,  where  the  barges  were  hoisted  in 
board,  preparatory  to  a  run  for  the  southern  end  of  Min- 
doro.  Quitting  Cabras  that  evening,  on  the  morning  of 
the  16th  we  effected  a  landing  on  the  inner  Apo  Island, 
for  Observations  to  fix  its  position,  the  ship  having  orders 
to  preserve  a  distance  of  five  miles,  and  the  '  Royalist '  to 
extend  her  distance  W.N.W.,  in  sight  of  the  ship,  in 
search  of  a  shoal  said  to  exist  in  that  direction,  which  she 
fortunately  found,  and  dropped  her  anchor  on  it;  the 
least  water  found  by  her  boats  being  three  fathoms,  and 
the  distance  from  the  lesser  Apo  rocks  being  determined 
to  be  eleven  miles,  bearing  N.  73°  W.  true. 

The  cutter,  with  her  gun,  had  been  ordered  to  accom- 
pany us,  in  case  of  requiring  measurement  for  base ;  but 
shortly  after  landing  upon  this  apparently  desolate  rock, 
we  noticed  two  boats  approaching  from  the  larger  island, 
and  go  to  the  rear  of  our  position.  When  opportunity 
admitted  of  my  quitting  the  instruments,  I  proceeded  to 
examine  the  rocks,  and,  very  much  to  my  astonishment, 
discovered  a  complete  nest  of  what  were,  doubtless,  pirates, 
when  convenient  prey  offered.  The  interior  of  this  coralline 
mass  which  was  much  worn  by  the  sea,  presented  a  series 
of  cavities,  which  were  taken  possession  of  as  chambers,  and 
game  cocks,  the  almost  invariable  companion  as  well  as 
decoy  bird  of  these  people,  might  be  noticed,  tethered  in 
every  direction.  The  exuviae  of  Turtle,  of  several  species, 
dried  fish,  nets,  &c.,  afforded  a  fair  pretext  for  the  harm- 
less and  peaceable  pursuit  of  fishermen ;  but  there  was 

G  2 


84  NEST  OF  PIRATES.  [1846. 

that  about  the  manner  and  restless  eyes  of  the  leaders 
which  implied,  we  know  that  you  are  too  strong  for  us, 
and  your  ship  would  not  suffer  you  to  be  wronged  with 
impunity;  otherwise,  had  the  gig  been  alone,  I  suspect 
that  they  would  not  have  hesitated  on  taking  us  to  a  better 
market  than  the  Apo  Islands  afforded.  Their  number,  if 
we  saw  the  whole  of  them,  might  be  reckoned  at  tlurty, 
but  I  suspect  that  many  were  concealed  in  the  chambers,  as 
well  as  others,  allies,  on  the  great  island,  where  they  had, 
doubtless,  left  their  women  protected.  As  due  notice  of 
this  important  nest  was  given  to  the  Spanish  authorities, 
it  is  to  be  presumed  that  long  ere  this,  their  vocation  has 
been  made  a  matter  of  stricter  investigation  than  I  was 
entitled  to  undertake.  I  am  perfectly  satisfied  that  any 
merchant  vessel  becalmed  near  the  greater  Apo  Island 
would  easily  be  captured  by  these  people,  and  her  absence, 
probably  assigned  to  foundering. 

The  position  of  the  inner  Apo  Island,  or  rock,  was 
determined  to  be  in  Lat.  1 2°  40'  4"  N.,  Long.  1 20°  24'  E., 
distant  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  greater  island,  which  is 
covered  with  trees.  A  reef  extends  off  the  western  point 
of  this  latter  island.  The  passage  between  the  two  islands 
is  deep,  and  all  the  dangers  are  visible  in  clear  weather ; 
we  did  not  obtain  soundings  with  sixty  fathoms  in  the 
channel.  The  light  airs  during  the  night  having  pre- 
vented our  progress  towards  Mindoro,  a  landing  was 
effected  on  one  of  the  nearest  Calamianes,  and  Obser- 
vations obtained  for  correcting  a  partial  survey  made 
in  our  progress,  to  Manila  in  December  last.  From 
thence  we  stood  across  towards  Mindoro,  and  shortly 
before  daylight  found  ourselves  in  the  vicinity  of  land 
which  the  Charts  did  not  indicate.  In  the  morning  we 


1846.]  YLIN  AND  MINDOEO.  85 

stood  into  the  bay,  formed  by  the  Island  of  Ylin  and 
Mindoro,  anchoring  near  the  Island  of  Garza,  upon 
which  I  determined  to  establish  my  principal  station. 

The  south-west  portion  of  Mindoro,  including  the 
Islands  of  Ylin  and  Ambolon,  had  long  occupied  a  sus- 
picious position  on  the  Charts,  and  reefs  were  reported  to 
extend  off  the  latter  Islands  for  some  miles  to  the  westward. 
This  being  one  of  the  remarkable  projections  in  the  main 
road  si  these  seas  it  was  important  that  its  actual  dangers 
should  be  delineated.  Further,  the  entire  group  of  islands 
contained  between  Mindoro  and  Panay,  were  so  grossly 
in  error,  under  the  loose  appellation  of  "the  Semirara 
Group  ",  that  navigation  was  dangerous  without  a  pilot. 
From  my  informants  at  Manila  I  was  led  to  expect  safe 
channels  between  the  Islands  of  Ylin,  Ambolon  and  Min- 
doro ;  and  that  water  and  refreshments,  so  important  to 
vessels  making  the  passage  by  this  route  from  Batavia, 
Macassar  or  Samboanga,  might  be  procured.  These 
were  objects  of  consideration  also  for  the  health  and 
comfort  of  our  crew,  and  always  most  anxiously  sought  by 
vessels  employed  on  this  special  service.  Indeed,  it  was 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  this  part  of  Mindoro  that 
we  fell  in  with  the  '  Young  Queen ',  returning  from  the 
Kotai  river  to  Manila,  in  1843,  in  distress  for  water,  which, 
had  we  been  possessed  of  certain  information,  would  have 
enabled  her  to  supply  her  wants  without  further  anxiety. 

No  signs  of  inhabitants  were  noticed  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  great  bay,  formed  by  Mindoro  and  Ylin,  but 
some  stray  huts  were  noticed  about  the  cleared  ground 
upon  the  latter  island. 

Our  operations  proceeded  without  accident  until  wo 


86  SKIRMISH.  [1846. 

rounded  the  west  point  of  Ylin,  and  came  upon  the  vicinity 
of  the  village  of  that  name,  situated  in  an  open  bay  facing 
the  north-west.  I  was  then  pulling  to  a  station  on  that 
side  of  the  channel,  when  a  party  of  natives  showed 
themselves  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  shot  an  arrow  at 
me,  which  missed.  At  this  time  I  was  unarmed,  and  in  a 
light  extra  gig  used  for  landing  over  the  reefs ;  some  delay 
ensued  before  my  own  gig  came  up,  when  the  assailants 
were  chased,  and  made  good  their  retreat  somewhat 
diminished  in  valour,  after  one  or  two  ringing  shots 
marked  the  branches  in  the  direction  in  which  they  had 
fled.  To  prevent  further  accident,  I  pulled  immediately 
to  their  town,  and  giving  them  to  understand  that  any 
repetition  of  such  pranks  would  meet  with  severe  punish- 
ment to  the  community,  measures  were  taken  by  the 
Alcalde  for  preventing  it.  The  chief  spokesman,  although 
not  the  Alcalde,  seemed  to  possess  great  influence  over 
the  village,  and  from  the  general  tenor  of  his  conversa- 
tion and  questions  I  shall  not,  perhaps,  err  very  widely 
in  assuming  that  he  is  connected  with  the  pirates.  He 
was  a  complete  pilot  for  all  the  creeks  and  ports  from 
Manila  to  Samboanga,  and  the  pirate  haunts  as  far  as 
Sooloo.  He  was  acquainted  with  several  merchants  at 
Manila,  but  from  his  intimate  knowledge  of  all  the  pirate 
haunts  and  practices,  he  must  have  been  in  closer  contact 
than  the  gun-boat  crews  to  which  he  intimated  that  he 
formerly  belonged. 

We  found  a  most  excellent  run  of  water,  but  difficult 
to  embark,  owing  to  the  shore  being  dry  at  least  200 
yards  from  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  and  the  tide  only 
admitting  our  heavy  boats  at  high  water.  A  very  snug 


1846.]  PORT  OF  MANDARIN.  87 

little  boat-harbour  is  formed  within  the  coral  reef,  and 
anchorage  for  the  '  Samarang '  was  found  at  a  convenient 
space  without  it.  Fowls,  eggs,  grain  and  vegetables  were 
procured  very  reasonable ;  and  our  informant  stated  that 
we  should  meet  with  plenty  of  cattle  and  stock  at  the  town 
of  Mangarin,  situated  near  the  northern  end  of  the 
channel  between  Ylin  and  Mindoro.  Moving  thither,  the 
'  Royalist '  was  securely  anchored  in  the  very  snug  little 
Port  of  Mangarin,  formed  by  the  extension  of  a  tongue 
of  Shingle  across  the  mouth  of  its  bay. 

My  visit  to  the  town  of  Mangarin  was  fruitless ;  very 
little  to  be  procured,  and  that  exorbitantly  dear.  The 
Padre  being  absent,  Bullocks  were  not  to  be  had ;  in- 
deed, our  visit  appeared  to  discompose  them  so  much 
that  I  was  quite  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the  hostile  com- 
plexion which  they  seemed  to  assume.  Our  purchases 
amounted  to  six  or  eight  eggs,  and  heartily  disgusted  with 
their  proceedings,  I  left  them  to  discuss  the  motives  of  our 
visit,  which,  no  doubt,  had  some  superstitious  foundation. 

When  we  call  to  mind  the  present  state  of  the  natives  of 
Luzon,  even  in  the  vicinity  of  Manila,  where  the  Governor 
did  not  consider  us  safe  without  a  guard  of  Cavalry,  lest  our 
instruments  should  excite  their  superstition ;  and  the  ad- 
ditional circumstance  of  one  of  our  countrymen  having 
been  very  severely  wounded  because  he  possessed  a  few 
bottles  of  beer,  which  they  fancied  was  poison,  it  will  not 
appear  at  all  extraordinary  that  these  people,  never  visited 
but  by  the  crews  of  the  Faluas,  as  ignorant  nearly  as 
themselves,  should  feel  alarm  at  the  number  of  boats, 
men,  and  instruments  which  they  met  at  every  point. 
The  village  of  Ylin,  therefore,  is  the  only  place  where  I 


88  AMBOLON.  [1846. 

would  recommend  a  vessel  to  call  for  supplies;  there 
they  can  be  obtained  cheap,  and  good  humour  seems  to 
animate  all  classes. 

The  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  our  survey  was 
particularly  mountainous,  but  the  coast-line  for  a  great 
distance  inland  on  Mindoro,  traversed  by  estuaries  form- 
ing an  extensive  swampy  Mangrove  Archipelago.  Not  so 
the  Island  of  Ylin,  it  was  accessible  on  ah1  sides,  and  some 
of  its  southern  cliffs  rose  abruptly  to  the  height  of  200 
feet.  The  island  is  well  wooded,  but  excepting  on  the  N.W. 
near  the  village,  but  very  little  cleared  land.  Another  por- 
tion, in  a  deep  bay  opposite  to  the  ship,  appeared  to  be 
undergoing  the  same  process  of  clearing,  and  near  this  spot 
another  of  our  boats  was  treated  with  a  flight  of  arrows, 
probably  at  the  same  time  that  they  paid  me  the  compli- 
ment. Ambolon  is  uninhabited  and  uncultivated.  It  is 
almost,  if  not  quite,  divided  by  a  swampy  lagoon,  forming 
a  small  harbour  on  the  west.  The  rocks  throughout  these 
parts  are  of  slaty  mica  schist,  excepting  the  south  point  of 
Ylin,  which  is  a  compact  coralline  limestone  with  caves  con- 
taining stalactites,  &c.  We  found  all  the  channels  between 
the  islands  navigable,  but  requiring  caution.  The  dangers 
reported  westerly  of  Ambolon  were  not  discovered ;  none 
exist  westward  of  a  north  and  south  line  grazing  that  island, 
within  half  a  mile,  but  several  within  it  are  now  placed  on 
the  Charts.  The  general  scenery  is  pleasing,  some  of  the 
sequestered  bays  delightful,  and  our  cruize  of  six  days  in 
the  boats  formed  quite  a  pleasurable  excursion.  Deter- 
mined to  prove  the  security  of  the  channels,  the  '  Sanaa- 
rang  '  was  taken  through  the  Ylin  Strait,  and  anchored  off 
the  village  of  Ylin,  where  we  contrived  to  take  on  board 


1846.]  SEMIRARA.  89 

about  800  gallons  of  water  during  our  detention  for  stock. 
This  was  more  for  the  purpose  of  proving  the  practicability 
than  as  a  watering  service ;  the  spring  from  which  we 
obtained  it  was  at  the  first  cliff  south  of  the  town.  The 
position  of  Garza  Island  in  the  great  bay,  was  found  to 
be  in  Lat.  12°  12'  26"  N.,  Long.  121°  9'  E.,  Var.  0°  23' 
34"  W.,  Dip.  11°  22'. 

Quitting  Mindoro  we  steered  for  the  Island  of  Semi- 
rara,  and  commenced  its  survey.  It  is  not  the  island  so 
named  on  the  Charts,  but  one  north  of  it.  Nothing 
worthy  of  notice  occurred  here;  we  observed  a  town 
upon  the  crest  of  a  hill  with  the  Spanish  colours  flying, 
but  could  not  induce  any  of  the  people  either  to  visit  us 
or  shew  themselves  near  the  shore.  The  island  contains 
a  large  quantity  of  cleared  and  apparently  fertile  land, 
with  some  elevations,  but  rounded,  and  seemingly  under 
cultivation ;  the  prevailing  rocks  are  slaty  on  the  eleva- 
tions but  coralline  at  base. 

About  this  period,  finding  our  provisions  diminish 
rapidly,  and  fearing  that  our  intended  operations  on  the 
northern  coast  of  Borneo  might  be  cramped,  I  determined 
on  taking  the  available  provisions  of  the  '  Royalist ',  and 
despatched  her  to  Singapore  for  fresh  supplies,  with  instruc- 
tions to  rejoin  at  the  Island  of  Balambangan,  and  to  call 
in  at  Sarawak  for  any  communication  which  Mr.  Brooke 
might  be  able  to  furnish,  at  the  same  time  sending  him 
an  invitation  to  join  us,  and  recruit  his  health  by  the  sea 
air  and  amusement  which  he  might  experience  at  Tam- 
passook,  Borneo,  and  the  other  rivers  on  the  northern 
coast.  On  the  evening  of  the  Gth  of  February  the 
'  Royalist '  parted  company  on  this  service,  carrying  our 
despatches  for  England. 


90  PIRATE  ISLAND.  [1846. 

From  Semirara  we  revisited  and  connected  the  Pana- 
gatan  group,  on  the  eastern  islet  of  which  we  found  the 
remains  of  a  temporary  Malay  village,  and  one  of  their 
party  dead.  He  appeared  to  have  been  left  there,  as  he  was 
not  buried  but  remained  in  the  position  in  which  he  had 
died,  to  all  appearance,  in  agony.  His  clothes  were  loosely 
drawn  round  him,  and  it  occurred  to  me  that  he  might  have 
met  with  foul  play,  but  I  was  unable  to  trace  any  symp- 
toms of  violence ;  it  is  possible  that  he  might  have  been 
wrecked  in  his  canoe,  and  died  from  starvation.  From 
this  island  we  proceeded  to  one  directly  east,  being  that  to 
which  the  name  of  Semirara  is  generally  applied.  As  it 
had  no  name,  and  had  been  designated  by  our  Ylin 
authority  as  inhabited  by  Orang  jakat  (bad  people),  it 
received  the  temporary  name  of  Pirate  Island.  It  is 
apparently  capable  of  cultivation,  the  principal  part  pre- 
senting a  smooth  gently  undulating  surface,  terminating 
at  the  western  extremity  by  lofty  abrupt  cliffs.  No  conve- 
nient anchorage  was  obtained,  although  necessity  induced 
me  to  moor  the  ship  on  the  edge  of  the  coral  bank  in 
twenty-five  fathoms,  with  the  kedge  little  beyond  her 
own  length  in  three  fathoms,  and  at  sixty  yards  seaward 
no  bottom  with  100  fathoms.  A  lake  of  fresh  water  was 
found,  and  symptoms  of  inhabitants  were  noticed  at  the 
eastern  extreme,  where  they  had,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Bajow  tribes  of  Borneo,  been  making  salt,  by  boiling 
sea- weed  in  earthen  vessels.  Another  island,  not  examined 
by  us,  was  situated  to  the  E.N.E. 

Quitting  Pirate  Island,  our  attention  was  directed  to  a 
small  islet  observed  from  the  highest  peak  of  Pirate 
Island,  which  proved  entirely  new ;  it  was  well  inhabited, 


1846.]  PANAGATAN  GROUP.  91 

and  designated  by  the  natives,  who  were  Bisayans,  or, 
a  colony  of  Los  Moros,  Mag^igfiin.  From  their  conver- 
sation, which  was  maintained  between  bad  Spanish  and 
Bisayan,  they  exhibited  little  affection  towards  the 
Spanish  Government,  and  having  been  described  by  our 
Ylin  interpreter  as  bad,  were,  doubtless,  friends  of  Los 
Moros.  The  island  is  small,  with  a  considerable  elevation 
in  its  centre,  and  has  an  enclosed  palisaded  village  on  the 
S.W.  The  position  of  the  western  peninsular  clump  was 
determined  to  be  in  Lat.  11°  36'  10"  N,  Long.  120°  37' 
25"  E. 

From  hence  we  returned  to  Panagatan,  after  which,  our 
course  was  directed  for  the  Cagayanes,  with  the  intention 
of  completing  the  survey  commenced  in  December,  1845. 
Shortly  after  midnight  on  the  13th  of  February  we  struck 
soundings  in  fifty  fathoms,  and  hauled  easterly  into  deeper 
water,  until  the  following  morning,  when  passing  down  the 
eastern  side  of  the  shoals,  we  selected  a  small  coral  islet, 
discovered  on  our  former  visit,  for  our  main  position. 
Having  obtained  all  that  we  required  here,  we  then  pro- 
ceeded to  search  for  a  line  of  shoals  northerly,  said  to  ex- 
tend fifty  or]sixty  miles,  and  on  which  we  had  already  ob- 
tained the  one  cast  of  fifty  fathoms.  By  dint  of  very  close 
watching  we  managed  to  keep  upon  the  edge  of  the  sound- 
ings until  noon  the  following  day,  the  least  water  obtained 
by  the  ship  being  eight  fathoms  and  a  half,  although  from 
the  ripples  noticed,  it  is  highly  probable  that  dangerous 
spots  exist,  but  being  out  of  sight  of  land  can  only  be  fixed 
by  Astronomical  sea  observations,  and  from  the  strength  of 
the  currents,  and  prevalent  light  airs,  unsafe  for  a  sailing 
vessel  to  examine.  At  the  moment  of  rounding  the 


92  SURVEYING  PARTY.  [1846. 

northern  extremity  of  these  patches  our  reckoning  placed 
us  thirty  miles,  north  half  qast,  of  the  south-western  end 
of  the  Cagayan  group,  or  twenty-six  miles  and  a  half 
north  of  the  highest  detached  northern  islet.  Early  on 
the  morning  of  the  16th,  having  kept  on  the  edge  of  the 
soundings,  we  approached  the  northern  breakers  of  the 
Cagayanes  within  one  mile,  and  taking  the  boats,  in  ad- 
dition to  my  gig,  quitted  the  ship,  with  two  days  provi- 
sions, in  order  to  outline  the  dangers  and  finish  the  coast- 
line, the  Officer  left  in  command  having  instructions  to 
look  out  upon  us  for  signals,  and  to  ascertain  the  general 
limits  of  the  soundings  off  this  group.  The  second 
master  had  also  been  detached  in  one  of  the  cutters  to 
obtain  a  station  on  the  north-eastern  island,  rejoining  the 
boat  division  by  sunset ;  where  he  found  us  very  snugly 
encamped  upon  a  sandy  tongue,  on  which  we  spent  the 
night.  Whilst  our  supper,  or  more  properly  dinner,  was 
in  preparation,  I  strolled  to  the^  end  of  this  tongue  to 
view  several  shoals  of  fish  which  were  playing  in  the 
eddies,  wishing  much  for  a  net  to  encircle  some  for  our 
repast.  Hardly  had  the  wish  been  conceived  before'several 
sharks  made  a  desperate  dash  amongst  them,  and  in  the 
course  of  the  panic  forced  several  on  shore  at  my  feet,  the 
sharks  themselves  literally  grounding.  The  suddenness 
of  the  dash,  added  to  some  little  fear  that  I  was  the  ob- 
ject they  aimed  at,  and  their  exertions  to  regain  the 
water,  prevented  my  being  so  alert  as  1  might  have 
been,  and  but  two  of  the  fish  were  secured  for  our  repast, 
much  to  the  chagrin  of  my  Sandwich  Island  attendant, 
who  sprang  at  the  sharks  themselves,  thinking  them  bet- 
ter booty.  In  the  morning  we  recommenced  operations, 


1846.]         PUEBLO  OF  CAGAYANCILLO.  93 

reaching  the  Pueblo,  which  bears  the  name  of  Cagayan- 
cillo,  about  noon. 

Upon  a  small  peninsula  jutting  from  the  bay,  and  in  a 
very  commanding  position,  is  situated  the  fort,  and  within 
it  the  .church.  It  is  a  high  walled  parallellogram,  en 
barbet,  evidently  of  Spanish  construction,  and  has  several 
small  brass  guns  or  swivels,  but  not  a  serviceable  carriage. 
The  flagstaff  bore  what  I  suspect  to  be  a  tablecloth,  cer- 
tainly not  the  national  colours  of  Spain;  and  as  no 
troops  were  present,  and  the  place  was  not  under  the 
control  of  any  military  character,  some  little  doubt  seems 
to  exist  as  to  whom  it  is  subject.  The  Alcalde  Mayor,  as 
he  styled  himself,  a  jolly,  good-natured  character,  who 
managed  our  purchases,  and  made  himself  very  useful, 
acquainted  me,  that  they  were  under  the  control  of  An- 
tique, a  town  on  the  coast  of  Panay,  nearly  east  from  the 
group,  and  that  the  Padre  from  that  place  occasionally 
visited  them.  But  subsequent  information  threw  some 
doubt  upon  this  statement,  as  neither  Cagayan  nor  the  name 
of  the  Padre  could  be  found  in  the  official  Colonial  List. 
However,  the  greater  part  of  them  understand  Spanish,  and 
as  those  belonging  to  the  convents  wrote  it,  as  well  as  the 
name  of  their  priest,  it  may  be  safely  assumed,  as  they 
frequent  the  church,  and  acknowledge  the  Catholic  reli- 
gion, that  they  are  not  Moors  (or  Mahomedan),  as  some 
have  suggested.  Their  dialect  is  Bisayan,  similar  to  that 
in  use  on  the  coast  of  Panay.  The  principal  part  of  the 
village,  which  is  concealed,  and  conveniently  shaded  by  a 
thick  screen  of  Cocoa-nut,  as  well  as  garden  trees  of 
close  foliage,  runs  in  a  line  parallel  to  the  coast  in  a 
single  street,  until  reaching  the  sandy  bay  southerly  of 


94  STOCK  OF  PROVISIONS.  [1846. 

the  fort,  where  it  abuts  and  forms  a  fresh  cluster, 
apparently,  of  fishermen's  houses.  It  is  at  this  spot  that 
their  wells  are  dug,  on  which  it  appears  they  are  entirely 
dependent  for  water,  and  which  being  partially  infiltrated 
from  the  sea  is  not  particularly  pure.  The  houses  are 
constructed  on  posts,  having  the  floor  raised  about  six 
feet  above  the  earth  forming  beneath  the  customary  pig- 
sty, poultry  pen,  and  receptacle  for  the  filth  of  the  house, 
similar  to  most  of  the  Bisayan  villages.  Cattle  appeared 
to  flourish,  and  several  were  procured  at  moderate  prices 
(six  to  ten  dollars)  for  the  crew,  as  well  as  some  tolerably 
large  hogs.  Poultry  were  also  moderate,  but  vegetables 
scarce.  Cocoa-nuts  abound,  and  as  the  milk  of  this  fruit, 
averaging  three  half-pints  per  nut,  very  much  conduced 
to  the  health,  as  well  as  gratification,  of  our  crew,  a  suffi- 
cient stock  was  procured. 

The  principal  part  of  the  active  population  was  absent 
on  their  fishing  excursion  to  the  Island  of  Calusa,  situated 
about  fifteen  miles  to  the  westward.  The  natives  of  both 
sexes  are  a  fine  clean-limbed  people,  superior  to  the 
general  race  of  Bisayans  noticed  elsewhere.  This  may 
possibly  arise  from  the  greater  prevalence  of  fishing  pur- 
suits, which  I  have  noticed  in  many  parts  of  the  world  to 
produce  a  corresponding  clearness  of  complexion  and 
brightness  of  eye,  almost  constituting  a  superior  breed. 

The  first  instance  in  which  I  recollect  to  have  noticed 
this,  was  at  Cape  Blanco  in  1 832,  where  we  met  the  fishing 
vessels  of  the  Canaries,  and  it  was  remarked  generally 
that  the  people  engaged  in  these  were  of  a  lighter,  clearer 
complexion,  and  superior  address ;  so  much  so,  as  to  elicit 
the  remark,  "  that  they  appeared  gentlemen  in  disguise." 


1846.]  COMPLEXION  OF  FISHERMEN.  95 

The  same  observation  holds  with  regard  to  the  natives  of 
the  Sandwich  Islands  and  Tahiti,  who  are  said  to  have 
degenerated  since  the  introduction  of  religion,  or  rather 
the  Tabu  against  bathing  and  fishing,  formerly  practised; 
and  lastly,  to  come  even  to  the  Equatorial  regions,  we 
have  the  Bajows,  or  fishermen  of  Borneo,  some  shades 
whiter  than  their  brethren  of  the  interior.  The  use  of 
fish  may  have  its  weight,  but  the  fact  of  their  possessing 
a  purer  skin  and  cleaner  complexion  remains.  The  race 
at  Cagayan  appears,  however,  to  possess  a  greater  mixture 
of  Malay  and  Spanish  than  was  observed  at  Luban,  Ylin, 
or  Samboanga.  The  interior  of  their  habitations  was 
more  cleanly,  and  but  very  few  instances  were  remarked 
of  their  using  the  Areka.  I  noticed,  however,  one  or  two 
plants  of  the  sirih  (or  leaf  in  which  it  is  enveloped,  in 
order  to  form,  with  lime,  the  bujio)  very  carefully 
trained  over  a  lattice  work  and  guarded  by  a  fencing, 
which  shews  that  it  is  still  considered  as  a  luxury.  I  did 
not,  however,  notice  any  of  the  Areka  Palm  beyond  the 
village  gardens,  and  of  these  but  few. 

The  entire  group  presents  the  appearance  of  an  up- 
heaved mass,  the  composition  of  the  greatest  elevations, 
which  are  rugged  and  weather-worn,  being  entirely  similar 
to  the  coral  islands  of  the  Pacific,  and  exhibiting  com- 
plete forms  of  brain-stone  madrepores,  and  other  zoo- 
phytes. On  this  account  they  offer  but  little  opportunity 
for  cultivation,  being  entirely  dependent,  in  some  places, 
on  the  small  portions  of  earth  which  have  been  filled  into 
the  cavities.  On  the  great  island  immediately  above  the 
town,  the  soil  is  more  abundant,  the  surface  of  the  hill 
smooth  and  composed  of  a  reddish  earth,  apparently 


96  SANDBANKS,  &C.  [1846. 

decomposed  vegetable  matter.  As  it  approaches  the 
town,  or  base  for  the  Cocoa-nut  trees,  the  soil  becomes 
darker,  probably  from  greater  attention  to  cultivation, 
and  mixture  of  manure ;  but  I  remarked  that  wherever  the 
soil  had  been  disturbed  to  any  depth,  or  where  the  land 
crabs  had  carried  on  their  operations,  that  the  sub-soil 
consisted  entirely  of  comminuted  coral  matter.  The 
island  being,  therefore,  deficient  in  the  composition  of  the 
older  strata  is  not  in  a  condition  either  to  retain  or  convey 
its  casual  supplies  of  water  to  the  lower  levels,  and  for  this 
reason,  as  well  as  from  the  coral  debris  noticed  at  the  wells 
it  cannot  at  any  time  be  so  pure  as  that  of  more  primitive 
formations.  After  a  very  close  examination  of  the 
northern  entrance  to  the  sound,  formed  by  the  greater 
islands,  it  was  ascertained  that  it  is  barred  by  sand- 
banks, which  would  not  admit  of  vessels  drawing  above 
twelve  feet ;  a  channel  might,  however,  be  easily  dredged 
through  this  obstacle,  although  it  would  soon  close  again 
by  the  constant  undulation  prevailing  within  the  reefs. 
At  present  it  would  afford  a  secure  asylum  to  small  ves- 
sels, drawing  from  ten  to  twelve  feet,  and  in  the  event  of 
war,  would  become  a  most  important  position  for  annoying 
the  trade  of  these  seas.  The  interior  of  the  sound  is 
deep,  and  its  numerous  picturesque  bays  afford  eligible 
situations  for  forming  jetties  or  other  buildings  for  marine 
purposes.  The  scenery  reminded  me  very  much  of  some 
of  the  sequestered  spots  about  Bermuda ;  the  principal 
trees,  however,  differ  here,  they  are  mostly  of  the  palm 
tribe,  with  the  underwood  composed  of  the  Hibiscus  and 
other  shrubs  prevalent  in  these  regions ;  no  hard  wood 
trees  were  noticed. 


1846.]  ISLAND  OF  CALUSA.  97 

From  Cagayan  we  stood  over  to  Calusa,  and  edged 
round  its  breaker  line  in  the  hope  of  meeting  with 
anchorage,  but  as  this  search  proved  unsuccessful,  we 
landed  to  determine  its  position.  At  first,  I  suspected 
the  island  to  be  thickly  inhabited,  but  we  soon  discovered 
that  they  were  only  the  fishing  parties  from  Cagayan, 
who  paid  the  island  a  visit  in  order  to  obtain  a  supply  of 
Cocoa-nuts,  with  which  it  abounds.  The  entire  island, 
occupying  a  space  of  about  1500  yards  in  circumference, 
is  thickly  studded  with  these  trees,  and  the  underwood 
so  dense,  as  to  render  it  a  difficult  matter  to  get  out  if 
once  caught  within  its  labyrinths.  After  purchasing  some 
hundreds  of  this  fruit,  we  returned  to  Cagayan,  where  we 
found  some  of  the  fair  ones  very  much  alarmed  at  the 
non-arrival  of  the  boats  containing  their  better  halves, 
and  which  a  strong  adverse  wind  had  forced  to  leeward. 
They  were  much  pleased  to  hear  of  their  safety,  from  us, 
and  at  about  the  period  of  our  departure  most  of  them 
were  near  their  port.  These  vessels  are  about  the  usual 
build  of  prahus,  of  forty  feet,  sharp  at  each  end,  with  a 
good  midship  section,  but  deficient  in  bearing  at  either 
extremity.  Yet  in  these  frail  craft  they  make  their 
voyages  to  the  coast  of  Panay,  laden  with  dried  fish,  and 
returning  with  cotton  goods. 

Quitting  Cagayan,  we  steered  for  the  coast  of  Min- 
danao, selecting  our  watering  station  on  the  western 
shore  for  our  principal  meridian.  On  the  night  of  the 
21st,  we  dropped  anchor,  and  having  obtained  observa- 
tions, moved  on  to  our  old  position  off  the  town  of  Sam- 
boanga,  where  I  had  an  opportunity  of  renewing  my 
acquaintance  with  the  Governor,  Colonel  Figueroa. 

VOL.  n.  H 


98  INLAND  EXCURSION.  [1846. 

On  our  last  visit  he  had  been  compelled  to  quit  at  the 
moment  that  the  naval  authorities  had  interfered  about 
our  sounding  operations.  This  was  now  satisfactorily 
explained,  and,  as  I  imagined,  had  been  a  mistake  alto- 
gether, or  rather,  it  had  not  been  officially  notified.  As 
our  duties  did  not  confine  us  so  closely  as  on  our  former 
visit,  the  Governor  and  his  friends  made  up  a  party  for 
an  inland  excursion,  or  pic-nic,  which  we  enjoyed  amaz- 
ingly, obtaining  from  our  elevated  position  a  most  com- 
manding view  of  all  the  surrounding  coast  and  islands 
up  to  Basilan.  The  position  where  we  rested  was  the 
inland  Vigia  or  Guard-house,  established  to  keep  in  check 
the  lawless  mountaineers,  who  are  equally  dreaded  with 
the  Moros,  of  whom,  indeed,  they  are  the  counterpart, 
on  the  soil,  and  connected  by  the  Bay  of  Illana.  But 
these  mountaineers  are  less  merciful  than  their  brethren 
of  the  sea,  generally  spearing  their  victim,  whom  they 
cannot  very  conveniently  carry  away,  and  whom  it  would 
be  impolitic  to  spare,  lest  he  should  tell  tales.  A  pleasant 
rivulet  winds  through  this  region,  having  sufficient  depth 
for  bathing,  in  which  many  indulged  after  the  fatigues  of 
the  chase.  It  was  expected  that  deer  and  mountain 
cocks,  the  beautiful  and  graceful  Malay  bird,  would  have 
been  added  to  the  spoils,  but  monkeys  and  woodpeckers 
were,  I  believe,  the  only  game  produced ;  a  pair  of  the 
cocks  were  noticed,  but  too  wary  to  be  killed. 

This  excursion  proved  to  us  that  our  judgment  relative 
to  the  quantity  of  land  under  cultivation  between  the 
coast-line  and  the  base  of  the  mountains  was  much  under- 
rated. The  width  of  the  available  land,  extending  about 
twenty  miles  along  the  coast,  westerly,  may  be  reckoned 


1846.]  ABUNDANCE  OF  STOCK.  99 

at  three  miles,  and  that  used  for  pasturage  on  the  cleared 
hills  about  the  same  distance,  making  a  line  of  country 
twenty  miles  in  length,  and  six  in  depth,  as  solely  de- 
pendent on  the  town  of  Samboanga.  Throughout  this 
extent,  streams  of  excellent  water  pervade,  forming  on  an 
average  about  one  for  each  mile.  The  land  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  town  is  laid  out  in  gardens  and  fields, 
producing  all  the  fruits  and  vegetables  generally  found 
in  these  regions.  Stock  of  all  kinds  exists  in  abundance, 
but  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  the  scale  of  prices  is  very 
exorbitant,  particularly  for  bullocks  and  vegetables. 
Washing  is  enormously  expensive,  and  infamously  exe- 
cuted, worse  than  that  generally  performed  by  seamen. 
As  the  colony  is  under  surveillance,  and  one  person  alone 
authorized  to  deal  with  strangers,  this  cannot  create  sur- 
prise, but  as  this  individual  chose  to  give  himself  more 
airs  than  became  him,  and  capriciously  impeded  our 
supplies  of  bullocks,  I  was  compelled  to  turn  him  over  to 
the  mercy  of  the  higher  authorities,  who  would  not  coun- 
tenance his  insolence  to  military  authority.  This  conduct 
caused  a  considerable  reduction  in  his  profits,  and  will, 
probably,  produce  a  stricter  look  out  upon  his  proceedings 
with  future  visitors. 

Our  operations  in  this  region  were  more  particularly 
directed  to  the  completion  of  the  shoals  extending  from 
the  Santa  Cruz  islands,  situated  about  two  miles  imme- 
diately to  the  southward  of  the  town,  and  from  which, 
westerly  and  southerly,  a  very  extensive  bank  of  coral 
projects,  rendering  the  navigation  of  this  channel  dan- 
gerous to  strangers,  but  more  particularly  on  its  southern 
side,  or  from  a  position  due  west  from  the  western  Santa 

H2 


100  PEOPLE  OF  SAMBOANGA.  [1846. 

Cruz.  Here  the  current  sets  at  an  angle  obliquely 
southward,  and  in  light  winds  no  commander  should  hesi- 
tate in  dropping  his  anchor  in  fifteen  fathoms,  until  the 
tide  changes,  and  by  heaving  in  his  slack  cable  at  change 
of  tide,  there  is  no  fear  of  losing  his  anchor.  Vessels 
which  unfortunately  ground  here  have  no  mercy  shown 
them  at  Samboanga,  as  may  be  seen,  page  706, '  Nautical 
Magazine ',  1843  ;  the  purport  of  which  is  as  follows : — 
"  The  '  Ann '  of  Greenock,  with  a  valuable  cargo,  consisting 
of  tea,  silk,  and  sundries,  from  Canton  to  England,  under 
British  colours,  struck  on  the  Santa  Cruz  bank  at  8,  P.M. 
on  the  14th  June,  1842.  She  was  relieved  by  the  exer- 
tions of  the  masters  of  the  '  Cyrus  '  and  '  Marshall  Ben- 
nett '  whalers,  and  brought  to  Samboanga.  Offers  were 
at  first  made  by  the  Spanish  authorities  to  assist  her,  but 
so  exorbitant  that  they  were  inadmissible,  and  subse- 
quently, entirely  refused.  Finally,  they  were  deemed  so 
very  doubtful  to  the  security  of  the  cargo,  if  landed,  that  it 
was  considered  more  advisable  to  proceed  to  Sourabaya, 
on  the  eastern  limit  of  Java,  where  she  was  convoyed  by 
the  '  Cyrus ',  making  about  twelve  inches  water  per 
hour ;"  and  then  the  writer  of  the  article  goes  on  to 
contrast  this  treatment  with  the  conduct  of  the  people  of 
Loo-Choo  towards  the  crew  of  the  '  Indian  Oak '  stranded 
upon  those  islands. 

The  only  remark  which  I  shall  offer  upon  this  matter 
is  to  the  effect  that  a  more  upright,  honourable  Officer 
than  Colonel  Eigueroa  is  not  to  be  found,  and  he  bears 
that  character  at  Manila  amongst  the  European  residents. 
In  these  matters  I  fear  he  has  no  control,  and  that  the 
officially  the  day  following,  accompanied  by  the  Civil 


1846.]  MILITARY  DISAGREEMENTS.  101 

Spanish  Government  is  not  at  all  maintained  at  Sambo- 
anga  owing  to  the  conflicting  interests  or  independent 
jurisdiction  which  is  claimed  by  the  marine  department. 
I  do  not  mean  to  give  any  opinion  as  to  the  matter  of 
the  '  Ann  ',  because  I  did  not  know  of  it  at  that  period  ; 
but  as  several  occurrences,  in  reference  to  the  '  Sama- 
rang',  of  trifling  importance  viewed  separately,  came 
under  my  observation,  I  became  an  involuntary  witness 
of  these  military  disagreements,  which,  for  the  credit  of 
their  Mag,  should  have  been  concealed  from  me.  Of  this 
feeling  I  had  some  knowledge  before  quitting  Manila, 
but  it  will  scarcely  be  credited  by  any  of  the  superior 
authorities  who  may  chance  to  scan  these  pages,  that 
neither  the  Captain  of  the  Port,  nor  any  naval  person 
whatever,  visited  the  '  Samarang '  on  anchoring  in  their 
own  roadstead.  I  had  always  been  under  the  impression 
that  the  Spanish  Colonian  laws,  and  particularly  at  such 
a  settlement  as  Samboanga,  forbad  communication  with 
the  shore  from  any  foreign  vessel  before  "  the  visit ;" 
but  the  general  courtesy  of  the  Spanish  nation  warranted 
the  expectation  of  the  customary  civility  towards  a  ship 
of  war  belonging  to  a  nation  in  amity  with  Spain. 

It  was  not  my  business  to  dictate  what  their  law 
should  be,  and  as  it  was  possible  that  the  Naval  Com- 
mandant of  Gun  Boats  might  be  absent  with  his  flotilla, 
1  lost  no  time  in  paying  proper  respect  to  the  Military 
Governor,  by  sending  an  Officer  to  wait  upon  him  and 
ascertain  whether  he  was  present.  Upon  the  return  of 
this  Officer,  with  a  very  warm  invitation  and  offer  of 
apartments,  I  waited  upon  him.  He  returned  the  visit 


102  CASE  OF  THE  '  ANN.'  [1846. 

Magistrate  and  suite,  but  no  Naval  Officer  performed 
such  a  courtesy  during  our  stay.  This  conduct  appeared 
the  more  unaccountable  as  it  was  well  known  that  on 
this  occasion  I  was  the  bearer  of  a  special  note  from  the 
Governor  General,  the  friend  of  the  present,  as  well  as 
late  Brigadier  of  Marine,  of  the  Captain  of  the  frigate, 
and  of  Captain  Villavicentio,  formerly  the  Commandant 
of  the  flotilla  here.  It  may  appear  that  I  am  overrating 
the  importance  to  be  attached  to  these  party  differences, 
but  my  present  object  is  to  point  out  the  possibility  of 
some  such  feeling  being  either  the  direct  or  latent  cause 
of  the  treatment  complained  of  by  the  '  Ann ',  and  it  is 
highly  probable  that  it  resulted  from  conflicting  opinions 
as  to  jurisdiction,  whether  it  was  within  the  province  of 
the  Governor  or  Naval  Commandant. 

It  may  be  assumed  that  in  this  penal  settlement  the 
Spanish  Government  does  not  countenance  the  visits  of 
strange  vessels.  Grant  it  in  the  case  of  casual  visitors, 
but  the  laws  of  humanity  and  custom  of  the  civilized 
world  extends  assistance  to  vessels  of  every  denomination 
in  distress,  and  no  excuse  can  be  accepted  for  its  denial 
to  the  '  Ann ',  particularly  if,  as  stated,  they  originally 
consented  to  it,  and  exhibited  the  means  they  had  of 
meeting  every  exigence,  if  only  the  money  was  forth- 
coming. As  to  the  refusal  of  men  to  navigate  the  vessel 
to  Java,  the  writer  of  the  article  in  the  Nautical  Maga- 
zine, forgets  his  admission  that  he  was  in  a  penal  settle- 
ment. No  doubt  much  may  be  disputed  on  this  matter,  but 
I  must  candidly  say  that  from  Colonel  Figueroa  I  received 
the  most  marked  courtesy,  and  special  exertion  on  his 
part  to  carry  out  every  wish  connected  with  my  duties, 


1846.]  VILLAGE  OF  BUM ALON.  103 

and  as  to  my  private  convenience,  I  found  him  truly  a 
friend. 

On  our  former  visit  to  this  place  we  had  made  a 
shooting  excursion  into  the  interior  from  Calderas  until 
we  reached  a  collection  of  huts  situated  upon  the  banks 
of  a  stream.  This  was  termed  the  village  of  Dumalon ; 
but  the  river  having  forced  a  new  and  more  direct  channel 
seaward,  and  the  interior  position  having  been  found 
unhealthy,  a  new  stockaded  village,  under  the  same  name, 
presented  itself  at  the  new  embouchure,  on  the  coast-line, 
a  little  to  the  southward  of  our  favourite  watering  posi- 
tion. The  stockading,  look-out  houses,  perched  on  tall 
spars  about  fifty  feet  above  the  earth,  and  other  war-like 
defences,  showed  that  they  were  not  disposed  to  trust  too 
implicitly  to  the  friendly  alliance  existing  between  their 
neighbours  of  Mindanao,  or  Illana. 

The  population  of  Samboanga  and  its  vicinity  is  com- 
posed of  the  families  of  the  military  forming  the  garrison ; 
of  the  Gun-boat  flotilla ;  and  probably  of  those  whose 
term  of  durance  having  expired,  and  having  contracted 
ties  with  the  residents,  prefer  remaining  under  steady 
military  employ,  to  return  to  Manila,  where  their  means 
of  livelihood  might  be  more  precarious.  To  this  cause 
we  may  probably  assign  the  prevalence  of  a  fairer  and 
better  looking  race  of  females  than  are  generally  observed 
in  such  small  societies,  being  the  progeny  of  those  per- 
mitted to  accompany  individuals  with  sufficient  means  to 
support  them  independent  of  labour.  Some  few  instances 
are  related  of  a  peculiar  heroism  amongst  some  of  these 
characters,  which  shows  that  they  are,  in  cases  of  danger, 
less  effeminate  and  vigorous  in  resources  than  their  male 


104  NATURAL  HISTORY  EXCURSION.  [1846. 

companions,  at  the  same  time  that  their  enemies,  the 
Illations,  are  not  wanting,  almost  to  the  extent  of  Spanish 
courtesy,  towards  the  fair  sex  when  found  in  a  defence- 
less state.  During  our  stay  here,  Mr.  Adams  was  fur- 
nished with  a  very  intelligent  guide  belonging  to  the 
establishment,  and  penetrated  some  distance  into  the 
interior  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  objects  of  Natural 
History,  but  his  conductor  appeared  to  be  very  sensitive 
upon  the  subject  of  "  Los  Indios  "  or  mountain  Illations, 
whom  he  stated  to  be  constantly  in  ambush,  on  the  look 
out  for  the  cattle  or  persons  of  the  Spaniards.  This 
same  person,  however,  accompanied  me  to  an  eminence 
much  further  inland,  commanding  a  most  extensive  view 
of  all  the  adjacent  islands,  but  as  we  were  well  armed  he 
exhibited  a  great  show  of  valour,  rather  wishing  for 
their  appearance,  probably  with  a  view  to  retaliation. 
Our  collection  was  not,  much  enriched  from  these 
excursions ;  the  streams,  however,  afforded  great  variety 
of  fresh-water  shells,  and  some  peculiar  fish  ;  a  few  land 
shells  were  also  brought  in  by  those  sent  to  seek  for  them 
on  the  mountains.  The  sea  did  not  afford  anything  new, 
although  the  locality  warranted  great  expectations;  as 
boats  in  penal  settlements  are  dangerous  means  for 
escape,  they  are,  of  course,  prohibited,  and  to  the  absence 
of  the  pursuit  of  fishing,  we  may  attribute  the  scarcity  of 
shells,  except  of  the  common  Cowries,  which  abound  on 
all  tropical  shores. 

Having  expressed  some  anxiety  about  procuring  a  spar 
fit  to  replace  the  foremast  of  the  '  Royalist ',  the  Governor 
advised  my  visiting  the  new  Port  of  Pasanhan  on  the 
northern  side  of  Basilan,  in  sight  from  the  hills  above 


1846.]  ISLAND  OF  MALAVI.  105 

Samboanga;  and  in  order  still  further  to  forward  my 
object,  he  most  kindly  wrote  a  note  to  the  Commandant, 
requesting  his  co-operation,  and  expressing  a  wish  that 
the  Officer  commanding  the  Gun-boat  would  afford  his 
aid  by  lending  one  of  his  crew  to  guide  our  carpenters  to 
the  most  convenient  spot,  as  well  as  to  point  out  the 
names  and  qualities  of  the  different  woods  adapted  for 
spars.  On  the  2nd  we  took  leave  of  the  worthy  Go- 
vernor and  his  civil  establishment,  and  steered  a  course 
to  skirt  the  extremity  of  the  shoals  extending  westerly 
from  the  Santa  Cruz  islands.  The  day  was  beautiful, 
and  with  a  light  breeze  we  passed  in  depths  varying  from 
five  to  fifteen  fathoms  over  the  coral  outlines,  seeing  the 
bottom  too  distinctly  for  enjoyment  had  we  not  been 
already  certain,  by  previous  investigation,  that  no  actual 
danger  existed. 

The  result  of  our  Observations  at  Samboanga  on  these 
two  visits,  places  the  western  extremity  of  the  town  (at 
the  watering-place)  in  Lat.  6°  54'  55"  N.  Long. 
122°  2'  12"  E.  Var.  1°  19'  41"  E  Dip.  1°  20'. 
As  the  Term  Day  for  this  month  occurred  during  our 
visit,  the  Magnetic  Observations  were  conducted  at  the 
same  spot ;  but  the  Vigia,  or  high  look-out-house,  which 
formerly  marked  the  observing  position,  has  been  removed. 


106 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
ISLANDS  OF  THE  MINDORO  AND  SOOLOO  SEAS. 

Island  of  Malavi — Mode  of  felling  trees —  Visit  to  the  Comandante — 
Fort  of  Pasanhan —  Wood  of  Malavi — Course  directed  across  the 
Mindoro  and  Sooloo  Seas — Island  of  Kulassien — Cagayan  Sooloo 
— Chase  after  two  piratical-looking  prahus — -Dangerous  navigation 
— Banguey — Geological  structure — Balambangan — Harbours  and 
general  resources — Tanjong  Agal-Agal — Useful  properties  of  its 
sea-weed — Dalrymple's  account  of  Maludu  and  Kini  Balu — The 
Black  Peninsular — Encampment  of  Illanon  pirates — Ant  Islands 
— Description  of  the  Sumpitan  and  arrows — Tampassook  river — 
Abai  and  Ambong — Visit  from  the  Sultan  of  Tampassook — Re- 
turn  of  the  '  Royalist '  with  supplies — Height  of  Kini  Balu — 
Rivers  Sulaman  and  Kawalan — Friendly  disposition  of  the  natives 
Gaya  Group — The  rivers  Kabatuan  and  Inanam — Interview  with 
the  natives — The  Kinyanis  river  —  Alarm  the  natives  —  Idaan 
Tribes — Membakut,  Kuala-lama  and  Kuala-panco  rivers — Bird 
Island. 

ON  the  morning  of  the  3rd  we  found  ourselves  off  the 
western  end  of  the  Island  of  Malavi,  which  forms,  by  the 
canal  within  it,  the  Port  of  Pansafihan,  a  new  settlement 
by  the  Spaniards  on  Basilan,  resulting  from  the  late  at- 
tempt of  the  French  to  obtain  possession  of  Malozo  on 
the  western  side  of  this  island,  which  the  Spaniards 
assert  to  be  within  their  territory.  As  no  signs  of 


1846.]  MODE  OF  FELLING  TREES.  107 

national  colours  were  noticed,  and  no  boats  came  off  to 
instruct  us,  we  dropped  our  anchor  in  a  very  convenient 
position  at  the  western  entrance,  and  erected  our  Obser- 
vatory at  the  nearest  end  of  the  island  of  Malavi.  Although 
armed  with  the  permission  of  all  the  superior  authorities 
to  pursue  our  operations,  still  courtesy  required  that 
the  Comandante  should  be  visited  and  the  necessary 
arrangements  made  with  him.  Leaving  affairs,  therefore, 
in  train  for  an  active  survey  of  the  port,  I  repaired  to  the 
Fort  to  seek  the  Comandante.  At  the  landing-place  I 
found  two  gun-boats  moored,  but  no  officers  visible; 
passing  them,  I  landed  and  moved  on  towards  the  summit 
of  a  conical  rise  under  process  of  clearing,  experiencing 
great  difficulty  in  threading  my  course  through  fallen 
trees,  which  were  in  some  instances  separated  by  fire,  but 
under  which  I  had  at  times  to  stoop.  The  labour  of  felling 
these  huge  trees  by  the  axe  would  have  proved  rather 
a  serious  task,  the  natives  therefore  collected  the  smallest, 
and  by  forming  stacks  of  these,  split  into  small  pieces, 
round  the  bases  of  the  largest,  effected  their  object  by 
undermining  them  by  fire.  The  crash  of  the  trees  on 
falling  was  startling,  and  the  report  was  heard  for  many 
miles.  Their  labour  did  not,  however,  cease  here,  for 
fresh  fires  had  to  be  continued  to  exterminate  these  ob- 
stacles which  continued  to  form  a  smoking  pile,  and 
instead  of  conveying  to  the  ordinary  traveller  the  idea  of 
visiting  a  new  and  rising  possession,  tended  rather  to 
impress  upon  him  the  idea  of  recent  disaster. 

Having  at  length  waded  through  these  highly  perfumed 
difficulties,  I  reached  the  entrance  to  a  strongly  stockaded 
fort,  within  the  lines  of  which  the  more  substantial  walls 


108  OFFICIAL  DIFFERENCES.  [1846 

of  stone  and  mortar  were  in  the  course  of  erection.  At 
present,  all  was  hut  work,  and  in  a  very  miserable  kind 
of  barn  I  was  told  that  I  might  Jind  the  Comandante. 
This  was  all  the  military  reception.  After  some  delay  and 
knocking,  a  subaltern  presented  himself,  who  was  exces- 
sively civil,  apologized  for  want  of  ceremony,  and  informed 
me  that  the  Comandante  was  dangerously  ill  with  fever ; 
and  from  my  observation  of  himself  and  another,  emerging 
from  a  deal  inclosure  near  us,  added  to  the  steam  and 
oppressive  feeling  resulting  from  the  effluvia  of  the 
surrounding  burning  ruins  of  the  monarchs  of  the  forest, 
I  thought  it  highly  probable  that  my  present  friends 
might  soon  be  added  to  the  hospital  list. 

Having  produced  the  letter  from  Colonel  Figueroa, 
and  the  Governor  General,  enjoining  attention  and  as- 
sistance, the  Commanding  Officer  instantly  assured  me 
of  every  assistance  within  his  command,  and  in  pursu- 
ance of  the  wish  expressed  in  the  Colonel's  letter,  de- 
spatched a  soldier  requesting  the  presence  of  the  Officer 
of  the  Gun-boat.  Upon  his  arrival  he  was  informed  of 
the  message  from  the  Governor,  indeed,  read  the  letter. 
The  question  of  military  jurisdiction  was  immediately 
raised,  with  the  distinct  assertion  that  he  could  not  obey 
the  order.  The  military  Officer  endeavoured  to  assure 
him  that  it  was  merely  the  wish  expressed  by  Colonel 
Figueroa,  but  in  vain.  In  order  to  be  quickly  relieved  from 
the  very  unpleasant  predicament  in  which  I  found  myself 
placed  by  these  unpleasant  jarrings,  and  which  began  to 
wax  very  warm  between  the  parties,  I  felt  it  my  duty  to 
stop  further  discussion  by  informing  the  naval  man,  "  that 
I  entirely  declined  any  assistance  from  his  department, 


1846.]  INDEPENDENCE  OF  THE  OFFICER.  109 

or  any  further  communication  upon  the  subject,  which  I 
should  refer  to  superior  authority.  I  begged,  however, 
to  remind  him,  that  as  Great  Britain  invariably  extended 
her  courtesy  to  all  foreign  Flags  visiting  her  ports,  I 
thought  that  her  ships  of  war  were  at  least  entitled  to 
the  ordinary  courtesy  of  civilized  nations,  especially  from 
one  supposed  to  be  in  amity.  Independent  of  this,  I 
considered  that  the  letter  of  the  Governor  General  war- 
ranted me  in  asking  for  any  assistance  I  might  require 
in  any  part  within  his  jurisdiction,  without  reference  to 
the  very  simple  request  of  the  Governor  of  Samboanga." 

The  Officer  attempted  to  explain  his  independent  posi- 
tion, and  tendered  assistance  on  his  own  part,  or  to 
further  my  wishes  in  any  way,  but  as  these  explanations 
involved  discussions,  which  it  was  my  duty  to  avoid,  I 
resolutely  declined  further  intercourse,  obtaining  from 
the  military  all  the  assistance  which  I  required.  As  the 
state  of  the  Comandante  appeared  to  be  so  serious,  as 
to  require  immediate  assistance,  I  lost  no  time  in  return- 
ing to  the  ship  and  forwarding  one  of  our  medical  staff. 

The  Fort  of  Pasanhan  is  situated  about  forty  feet  above 
the  sea  level,  and  by  clearing  away  the  trees  intervening, 
commands  the  two  entrances  on  the  east  and  west  of  the 
Island  of  Malavi.  The  interior  accommodation  within 
the  fort  is  intended  to  provide  for  a  garrison  of  sixty,  and 
as  the  natives  continue  to  be  troublesome,  cutting  off  any 
who  may  stray  beyond  the  picquets,  it  is  probable  that 
the  houses  exterior  to  the  fort  will  not  begin  to  accumu- 
late until  great  progress  has  been  made  in  clearing  the 
thick  woods  which  still  hang  upon  its  rear.  Fresh  water 
is  scarce,  but  this  important  treasure  was  discovered  not 


110  PASANHAN.  [1846. 

very  distant,  by  one  of  the  Officers  of  the  garrison  during 
our  sojourn,  and  so  delighted  him  that  he  must  needs  force 
me  into  the  compliment  of  drinking  a  tumbler  with  him,  as 
if  it  had  been  first-rate  wine.  The  crown  of  the  hill,  and  to 
musket  shot  in  the  rear,  as  well  as  down  to  the  canal  at  the 
sea,  easterly,  is  already  felled,  burning,  and  in  process  of 
clearing  from  rock,  which  is  readily  split  by  water  when 
heated  by  the  burning  trees,  and  is  in  great  demand  for 
the  construction  of  the  fort.  Near  the  water  the  ground 
is  still  very  swampy,  but  this  will  shortly  be  filled  in,  and 
in  all  probability  form  the  jetties  to  the  new  town,  which, 
if  judiciously  managed,  may  be  rendered  one  of  the  most 
valuable  ports  in  these  seas.  For  a  long  period  Basilan 
has  supplied  Mindanao  with  fruit,  vegetables,  cattle, 
poultry,  &c.,  and  if  the  native  population,  which  are  Ma- 
homedan,  are  once  brought  to  friendly  terms,  Pasanhan 
must  become  the  principal  resort  of  the  whalers  frequent- 
ing these  seas;  but  it  should  be  freed  from  the  dis- 
abilities under  which  penal  settlements  labour,  and  be 
under  a  separate  Government,  favouring  commerce,  and 
totally  disconnected  with  Samboanga.  The  western 
harbour  is  open  to  the  sea,  having  a  long  bay  terminated 
by  the  Island  of  Lapinigan,  at  a  distance  of  three  miles 
westerly,  but  still  affords  excellent  anchorage  over  a 
tough  clay  bottom,  with  shelter  from  prevailing  winds. 
A  small  island,  nearly  mid-channel,  protects  the  inner 
anchorage,  which  is  completely  land-locked,  and  between 
this  island  and  Malavi  is  a  deep  pool  with  space  to  shelter 
a  ship  of  the  Line  in  depths  from  five  to  fifteen  fathoms, 
most  admirably  adapted  for  careening  or  repairs.  From 
the  space  fronting  the  town,  easterly,  the  channel  affords 


1846.]         HARD  WOOD  OF  MALAVI.  Ill 

a  long  range  for  shelter,  taking  the  precaution  to  avoid 
two  coral  patches,  which  are  nearly  mid-channel.  There 
are,  therefore,  two  passages  of  entrance  or  exit,  but  that 
easterly  can  only  be  used  for  towing,  or  by  steamers,  as 
it  is  too  narrow  to  work  in.  As  the  Fort  of  Pasanhan  is 
commanded  by  heights  inland,  and  the  general  features 
of  the  neighbouring  land  exhibit  strong  water  courses, 
there  cannot  be  the  slightest  doubt  but  some  of  the  moun- 
tain streams  will  soon  be  conducted  to  the  town,  and 
complete  the  only  important  resource  now  looked  for. 

The  Island  of  Malavi  furnishes  the  hard  wood  of  that 
name,  of  a  yellowish  tint,  adapted  for  gun  carriages ;  Poon 
for  planks  or  spars,  and  the  Polo-Maria,  said  to  be  parti- 
cularly suitable  for  lower  masts.  For  this  use  I  should  not 
select  it  where  I  could  obtain  sound  fir,  or  even  Poon,  being 
equally  dense  as  oak.  Many  other  woods  abound,  and  in 
Basilan  may  be  obtained  to  any  dimensions  within  the 
bounds  of  reason,  as  I  myself  observed  a  noble  denizen 
of  the  expiring  forest,  exceeding  nine  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  base,  and  above  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length, 
of  available  timber. 

Our  boats  were  despatched  under  the  command  of 
Lieut.  Roberton  in  search  of  fresh  water,  which  he  found 
in  the  first  large  bay  west  of  the  settlement,  but  the  tide 
falling,  prevented  his  egress  with  the  full  casks.  Having 
completed  operations  here,  we  quitted  on  the  6th,  pass- 
ing the  Spanish  frigate  c  Ysabel ',  and  gun-boats  returning 
from  their  expedition  to  Sooloo.  Off  the  western  point 
of  the  bay  we  noticed  a  large  prahu  making  towards  us, 
which  induced  me  to  wait.  It  contained  several  large 
and  fat  bullocks,  but  their  prices  were  so  exorbitant  that 


112  SAIL  FOR  BANQUET.  [1S46. 

I  declined  to  have  any  dealings.  The  owners  had  pro- 
bably calculated  upou  a  higher  price  meeting  us  under 
canvas,  and  being  Malays,  were  too  proud  to  lower  their 
first  demand. 

The  position  of  the  entrance  point  on  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  Malavi  is  situated  in  Lat.  6°  42'  22"  N. 
Long.  121°  52'  23"  E.  No  currents  of  force,  similar  to 
those  of  the  Straits  off  the  Santa  Cruz  islands,  are  en- 
countered near  Pasanhan  or  Malavi,  although  a  strong 
tide  sets  through  the  narrow  eastern  channel.  Vessels, 
therefore,  are  not  subject  to  similar  inconveniences  on 
approaching  or  quitting  this  port. 

Our  course  was  now  directed  to  cross  the  Sooloo  and 
Mindoro  seas  for  Banguey,  situated  off  the  northern  ex- 
treme of  Borneo,  but  touching  at  such  islands  as  calms 
or  variables  might  render  it  advisable.  The  first  object 
encountered  in  our  way  happened  to  be  the  Island  of  Ku- 
lassien,  which  we  reached  on  the  evening  of  the  7th,  and 
landed  to  determine  its  position  by  the  stars.  Nothing 
worthy  of  interest  occurred,  and  having  fixed  its  south- 
western extremity  to  be  in  Lat.  6°  25'  4"  N.  Long. 
120°  34'  52"  E.  Dip.  —0°  42',  we  resumed  our  voyage. 
The  reefs  off  this  island  appeared  to  stretch  far  to  the 
southwest,  and  are  not  so  apparent  to  the  eye  as  such 
dangers  usually  are.  A  village,  with  numerous  small 
prahus,  probably  devoted  to  the  Pearl  and  Beche-de-mer 
fishery,  was  noticed  on  the  island  west  of  it. 

On  the  9th  we  sighted  Cagayan  Sooloo,  a  detached 
island,  apparently  owned  by  none  of  the  present  reign- 
ing powers,  but  classed  among  the  dependencies,  or  So- 
vereignty, of  Sooloo.  The  principal  object  of  our  visit 


1846.]  CAGAYAN  SOOLOO.  113 

being  merely  to  determine  its  geographical  position,  no 
attempt  was  made  at  any  survey  beyond  the  immediate 
anchorage.  Our  observatory  was  pitched  upon  a  small 
rocky  islet,  perched  upon  a  reef  at  the  entrance  of  a  most 
romantic  circular  basin,  and  although  perfectly  barred  by 
a  reef  crossing  its  entrance,  was  bottomless,  with  fifty 
fathoms  immediately  within,  and  having  but  fifteen 
fathoms  at  a  boat's  length  from  any  part  of  its  sides, 
above  which  the  cliffs  rose  abruptly  to  several  hundred 
feet.  It  appeared,  indeed,  as  a  complete  crater,  and 
though  densely  covered  on  its  sides  with  the  most  luxu- 
riant vegetation,  composed  chiefly  of  parasitic  plants,  the 
absence  of  a  ripple  or  breeze,  the  deep  blue  mirror  re- 
flecting and  adding  to  the  apparent  cylinder,  together 
with  the  silence  and  gloom  which  prevailed,  was  almost 
oppressive ;  a  chasm  in  the  rock  showed  that  one  of  a 
similar  character  was  situated  almost  in  conjunction, 
easterly,  but  we  noticed,  on  passing  in  the  ship,  that  it 
was  similarly  barred  by  reefs.  To  the  westward,  habi- 
tations were  noticed,  but  as  no  disposition  was  exhibited 
on  the  part  of  the  inhabitants  to  visit  us,  and  our  time 
was  fully  occupied  in  more  important  pursuits,  they  were 
allowed  to  remain  undisturbed  until  we  were  at  liberty. 
The  motions  of  several  prahus,  noticed  off  two  small  is- 
lands, situated  about  three  miles  to  the  southward,  being 
suspicious, began  to  excite  our  attention  about  8  P.M., nearly 
at  the  moment,  having  completed  Observations,  1  had  de- 
determined  on  visiting  the  houses  above-noticed ;  but  our 
plans  were  now  changed,  and,  under  the  full  belief  that  the 
prahus  were  piratical,  the  signal  was  made  for  a  general 
chase,  our  boats  being  at  that  period  about  five  miles  to  the 

VOL.  II.  I 


114  CHASE  AFTER  PIRATES.          [1846. 

westward,  fully  armed,  (for  measuring  base  by  sound)  and 
in  a  condition  to  prevent  their  escape.  The  '  Samarang ', 
by  signal,  was  under  weigh,  and  all  on  board  eager  for 
the  fray  before  1  reached  her ;  and  a  very  animated  chase 
occupied  us  until  near  sunset,  when  the  ship,  having 
brought  two  prahus  under  her  guns,  and  between  her 
and  the  southern  island,  a  shot  beyond  them  intimated 
the  futility  of  any  further  attempt  at  escape,  as  well  as 
the  propriety  of  awaiting  search,  which  the  two  cutters, 
rounding  the  western  side  of  the  island  nearly  at  the 
same  moment,  carried  into  effect.  They  contained  a 
Malay  Chief,  and  a  larger  supply  of  arms,  people,  &c., 
than  any  peaceable  persons  could  be  supposed  to  require ; 
as  to  the  fact  of  their  following  piratical  courses  I  had 
not  the  remotest  doubt,  but  as  they  did  not  contain  cap- 
tured Christians,  nor  could  any  piratical  fact  be  alleged 
against  them,  they  were  suffered  to  pursue  their  course, 
which  appeared  to  lead  them  to  the  main  island  of  Ca- 
gayan  Sooloo  ;  the  '  Samarang '  continuing  hers  towards 
Banguey.  The  Islands  of  Cagayan,  as  far  as  noticed 
by  us,  comprise  one  large,  very  high,  well-clothed  with 
trees,  and  apparently  of  volcanic  origin,  with  two  smaller 
islands,  situated  about  five  miles,  nearly  south  of  the 
centre  of  the  main  one.  Reefs  appear  to  extend  some 
distance,  belting  the  greater  island,  but  the  smaller  appear 
to  be  "  steep  to  ",  and  are  moderately  elevated  hillocks 
well  clothed  with  timber. 

The  position  of  our  Observing  islet,  nearly  upon  the 
meridian  of  the  centre  of  the  great  island,  was  determined 
to  be  inLat.  6°  58'  5"  N.  Long.  118°  24'  11"  E. 
Var.  0°  12'  29"  E.  Dip.  —  0°  55'  50"  Anchorage 


1846.]  ISLAND  OF  BANGUEY.  115 

was  obtained  for  the  '  Samarang '  in  sixteen  fathoms, 
about  one  mile  south  of  our  Observing  station,  but  from 
our  elevated  position  on  the  rocky  islet,  the  reefs,  off 
which  our  cutters  were  anchored,  appeared  to  extend  fully 
that  distance  from  the  western  shore,  and  exhibited  several 
rocks,  dry  at  low  water. 

At  daylight  on  the  llth  of  March,  we  sighted  the  lofty 
peak  of  the  Island  of  Banguey,  and  trusting  to  the  Charts, 
shaped  our  course  to  enter  the  channel  by  the  southern 
side  of  the  Mangsi  Islands ;  shoal  water  was  reported  seen 
from  the  mast  head,  but  before  the  requisite  information 
to  enable  us  to  clear  it  was  given,  the  rumbling  of  broken 
coral  under  our  keel  informed  us  that  we  had  been  tres- 
passing, but  as  it  did  not  impede  our  motion,  we  were 
soon  on  the  alert  to  escape  similar  patches.  This,  how- 
ever, appeared  no  easy  task,  as  on  tacking  and  standing 
to  the  eastward,  similar  dangers  appeared  to  intimate  that 
we  were  entrapped.  As  the  channel  within  appeared  to 
be  sufficiently  wide  for  working,  we  made  the  best  of  our 
dilemma,  and  by  dint  of  close  watching  from  the  mast 
head  and  bowsprit  end,  gained  a  fair  channel  about 
4,  P.M.,  not,  however,  without  occasional  nervous  mo- 
ments, and  going  through  patches  barely  kissing  our 
keel,  but  as  these  are  affairs  of  frequent  occurrence  to 
vessels  engaged  in  exploring  new  channels,  they  did  not 
excite  us  beyond  the  first  discovery  of  our  being  en- 
trapped. The  S.W.  angle  of  Balambangan  had  been  the 
rendezvous  appointed  for  the  'Royalist',  and  to  that 
point  our  course  was  now  directed. 

The  shores  of  Banguey,  with  its  imposing  and  very 
picturesque  peak,  engaged  our  attention  more  than  the 

i  2 


116  CANTON.  [1846 

monotonous  appearance  of  our  territory  of  Balambangan, 
upon  which,  indeed,  one  or  two  hillocks  appeared  to 
assert  that  it  was  not  entirely  a  Mangrove  swamp.  As 
we  passed  the  bar,  connecting  the  small  islet  off  Balam- 
bangan with  Banguey,  we  had  as  little  as  four  fathoms, 
but  as  this  was  nearly  the  same  as  given  by  Dalrymple's 
chart,  it  was  unnoticed  beyond  hauling  a  little  more 
towards  Balambangan.  The  sun  had  failed,  and  as  we 
neared  the  spot  on  which  we  intended  to  anchor,  I  felt, 
perhaps,  more  nervous  than  I  otherwise  should,  from  cir- 
cumstances arising  from  a  Court  Martial  on  the  Master  of 
the  '  Vestal ',  for  unfortunately  touching  one  of  its  shoals, 
and  this  investigation  having  thrown  doubts  upon  the 
accuracy  of  the  charts,  it  behoved  us  to  be  more  cautious. 
The  good  fortune,  usually  attending  us,  led  us  in  the  dark 
into  the  very  position  which  I  should  have  selected  by 
bright  day,  although  not  more  than  sixty  yards  from  the 
rocks  when  daylight  discovered  them  to  us. 

In  order  to  establish  a  good  look-out  position  from 
which  the  '  Royalist '  might  be  seen,  as  well  as  a  conspi- 
cuous feature  for  our  principal  station  and  astronomical 
position,  the  summit  of  one  of  the  southern  peninsulas 
was  cleared  of  trees  and  levelled  for  the  tent;  this 
enabled  us  to  command  the  entire  sea  view  westerly,  as 
well  as  the  whole  channel  between  Balambangan  and 
Banguey.  The  customary  duties  of  the  survey  engaged 
our  attention  generally.  The  two  great  bays  of  Balam- 
bangan had  been  examined  partly  by  Dalrymple,  but  the 
coast  of  Banguey  was  completely  a  terra  incognita,  and 
in  the  event  of  resuming  our  claims  on  the  Island  of 
Balambangan,  it  would  become  important  that  we  should 


1846.]  WESTERN  SIDE  OF  BANGUEY.  117 

ascertain  how  far  Banguey,  in  case  of  need,  could  assist 
in  supplies,  more  especially  of  water,  for  our  shipping. 
Horsburgh  states  that  the  boats  of  some  vessel  visited 
a  river  on  the  western  side  of  Banguey  and  obtained 
fresh  water.  Two  apertures,  supposed  to  be  rivers, 
were  examined  by  us,  but  both  were  salt,  apparently 
estuaries,  possibly  sending  forth  ]  fresh  water  in  wet 
seasons,  but  this  year  being  considered  remarkable  for 
the  general  failure  of  the  rivers  on  the  north  coast  of 
Borneo,  may  account  for  our  want  of  success.  But,  in- 
dependent of  the  question  as  to  fresh  or  salt,  neither  of 
these  estuaries  could  be  conveniently  made  use  of,  owing 
to  the  shoals  which  prevent  any  large  boats  from  ap- 
proaching, except  at  the  period  of  high  water.  On  our 
first  arrival,  the  natives  were  seen  quitting  the  western 
shore  of  the  island  in  five  prahus,  and  rounding  its 
southern  extreme,  shaping  their  course  easterly,  subse- 
quently, when  working  along  that  coast,  I  noticed  eight 
or  ten  small  prahus  hauled  up  amongst  the  trees,  two,  in 
particular,  very  neatly  painted,  but  no  inhabitants  were 
noticed  either  on  the  beaches,  hills,  in  canoes,  nor  any 
huts,  during  the  entire  period  of  our  detention  in  this 
neighbourhood.  The  soil  of  the  island  appears  to  be 
good,  and  the  trees  and  shrubs  of  luxuriant  growth ;  the 
rocks  noticed  upon  the  coast-line  were  slate ;  conglome- 
rate, the  pebbles  being  quartz  or  jasper ;  and  jasper ; 
one  very  tall  pyramidal  rock,  rising  to  the  height  of  eighty 
feet,  entirely  of  contorted  laminae  of  red  and  yellow 
jasper ;  the  soil,  overlying  the  slaty  portions,  was  generally 
of  a  yellowish  steatitic  clay,  very  friable,  and  evidently 
not  adapted  to  promote  vegetation.  The  entire  coast- 


118  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COAST.  [1846. 

line  of  the  island,  from  its  northern  point,  by  the  coast,  to 
the  southern  extreme,  is  dangerous  of  approach,  excepting 
the  extreme  western  tongue,  where  it  is  nearest  to  Ba- 
lambangan,  and  which  I  at  first  suspected  to  run  out  in 
a  coral  ledge  forming  the  bar  of  the  channel.  This  is 
not  the  case,  as  it  is  composed  entirely  of  five  slaty  peb- 
bles with  gravelly  bottom,  rather  "  steep  to,"  and  carries 
five  fathoms  along  its  curvature ;  the  coral  commencing 
again  about  one  mile  south  of  it,  and  continuing  its 
sweep  from  the  mouth  of  the  first  apparent  river  or 
opening,  encircles  all  the  islands  southerly,  the  water 
shoaling  suddenly  from  eighteen  to  three  fathoms.  The 
western  side,  therefore,  of  this  island  does  not  appear  to 
offer  any  resources  to  Balambangan,  nor  can  any  be 
hoped  for  from  the  north-western  face.  As  far  as  we 
examined  southerly,  and  easterly,  the  coast-line  did  not 
present  any  inviting  bays  or  anchorages,  but  the  creeks 
or  estuaries  on  the  S.E.  face  appeared,  from  the  double 
range  of  hills,  to  run  very  deep  into  the  interior,  and  as 
it  was  in  this  direction  that  the  five  prahus,  seen  upon 
our  arrival,  appeared  to  be  going,  it  is  probable  that  their 
villages  lie  in  that  direction. 

Balambangan  offers  two  excellent  harbours,  but  both 
require  some  skill  and  previous  knowledge  of  the  ground 
to  enter,  and  having  effected  this,  security  from  strong 
winds,  wood  and  water,  will  be  the  only  objects  to  be 
attained.  All  this  may  be  had  without  incurring  the 
risk  of  the  intricate  navigation,  by  anchoring  outside ;  and 
as  strong  breezes  do  not  prevail,  the  outer  anchorages  are 
sufficiently  safe.  Of  the  two,  the  northern  harbour  is  less 
difficult,  and  with  a  morning  sun  all  the  coral  patches 


1846.]          CHOICE  OF  ANCHORAGE.  119 

may  easily  be  seen  and  avoided.  The  best  anchorage  is 
northerly  of  where  the  water  flows  into  the  bay ;  it  is 
about  five  hundred  yards  within  the  southern  horn,  on 
the  east  of  the  position  where  the  English  fort  stood,  the 
site  of  which  may  be  readily  found  by  the  bricks  strewed 
about  the  ground,  and  the  cleared  and  solid  ground 
which  is  not  to  be  found  upon  any  other  part  of  the 
island.  A  merchant  vessel  may  obtain  a  supply,  but  the 
quantity  required  for  the  '  Samarang '  very  soon  drained 
it ;  I  think  about  fifteen  tons.  This,  therefore,  cannot 
deserve  the  appellation  of  a  watering-place.  As  the  water 
regained  its  level  during  the  night,  it  is  probable  that  it 
is  derived  from  the  rising  ground  behind  the  fort,  and 
would  prove  sufficient  for  the  consumption  of  its  former 
garrison,  which  appears  to  have  been  about  eighty  persons. 
The  narrative,  extracted  from  the  Spanish,  and  which 
appears  in  another  part  of  this  work,  states  that  the  party 
which  surprised  this  position  landed  at  the  back  of  the 
island.  This  is  improbable,  almost  impossible ;  but,  as  the 
Fort  was  situated  on  a  peninsula,  it  is  more  likely  that 
they  landed  on  the  southern  side,  and  attacked  the  post 
from  the  hill  in  its  rear,  which,  by  the  common  rules  of 
defence,  should  have  been  cleared  and  fortified,  and  would 
thus  have  prevented  any  chance  of  surprise. 

Although  the  present  season  was  deemed  dry  to  an 
extraordinary  degree,  throughout  the  northern  districts 
of  Borneo,  still  the  northern,  and,  apparently,  swampy 
part  of  Balambangan,  exterior  to  this  bay,  was  found  to 
contain  large  pools  of  deeply-tinted  fresh  water,  and,  in 
several  instances,  runs  of  sufficient  strength  to  cut  small 
channels  through  the  sand  into  the  sea.  All  the  soil  of 


120  INTERIOR  HARBOUR.  [1846. 

this  particular  region  appeared  to  be  of  a  peaty  nature, 
and  the  trees,  generally,  of  good  growth,  being  Poon, 
Casuarina,  &c.,  but  with  little  mixture  of  Mangrove. 
The  southern  harbour,  although  almost  land-locked,  or 
completely  sheltered  by  overlapping  reefs,  has  nothing  to 
recommend  it.  The  rocks,  which  are  coralline  limestone, 
succeeded  southerly  by  a  species  of  white  marble  and 
sandstone,  and  finally,  by  dark  basalt  on  the  off  lying 
islets,  are  either  fretted  by  sea,  or  atmosphere,  into  such 
sharp  edges  or  holes,  and  in  other  spots  in  loose  disin- 
tegrated piles,  apparently  from  some  great  convulsion  of 
nature,  that  standing  room  can  hardly  be  found.  This, 
therefore,  forbids  any  use  of  the  interior  harbour  beyond 
the  simple  shelter  for  refit ;  but  a  small  space  on  the 
south  side  of  the  exterior  bay,  appears  to  have  been 
cleared  sufficiently  large  for  the  erection  of  a  house,  and 
at  this  spot  a  brisk  rivulet  of  excellent  water  discharges 
itself  into  the  sea.  Unfortunately,  however,  the  coral 
reefs  at  this  spot  prevent  boats  approaching  nearer  than 
fifty  yards,  except  at  high-water  or  half  tide ;  and  as  this 
coral  ledge  is  the  base  of  a  long  coral  tongue,  extending 
northerly,  and  forming  the  southern  overlapping  tongue 
of  this  harbour,  the  adjoining  land,  exterior  to  the  bay, 
and  which  is  good  soil,  is  still  further  unavailable  for 
building.  Viewing  Balambangan,  therefore,  as  a  position 
for  a  settlement,  it  does  not  appear  to  offer  one  single 
inducement.  The  population  of  Banguey  is  stated  by 
the  people  on  the  Borneo  coast  to  be  composed  entirely 
of  the  Bajows  or  Sea  Gipsies,  and  Idaan,  which  are 
periodically  visited  by  the  Malay  authorities  of  Maludu 
Bay,  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  their  tribute  of  Bird's 


1846.]  BALAMBANGAN.  121 

nest,  Tripang  (Beche-de-Mer),  Pearl,  and  Pearl  Shells. 
The  natives  of  Banguey  have  no  commerce ;  the  only 
chance  of  trade  would  be  with  Maludu  Bay,  and  this  is 
already  so  completely  forestalled,  either  by  the  Bugis 
traders  from  Celebes,  or  the  Arab  SerifFs  from  Borneo 
Proper,  that  there  is  not  the  slightest  probability  of  their 
bringing  the  produce  of  their  villages  in  the  interior,  to 
seek  a  British  market  at  Balambangan. 

This  is  not  a  mere  speculative  opinion.  I  have  looked 
very  closely  into  the  general  habits  and  transactions  of 
the  accessible  tribes,  and  their  sources  of  trade  in  Borneo, 
Sooloo,  and  Singapore,  and  I  have  it  from  personal  obser- 
vation, as  well  as  the  best  European  authority,  that  no 
commerce  can  be  carried  on  in  these  regions  without  the 
intervention  of  the  Arab  or  Malay,  unless  the  European 
agent  visits  or  resides,  and  personally  transacts  the 
business,  on  the  spot.  I  have  before  alluded  to  Mr. 
Wyndham,  resident  at  Sooloo ;  from  many  conversations 
with  that  gentleman,  who  is  an  individual  coming  strictly 
within  my  meaning,  I  have  reason  to  know  that  no  pro- 
fitable trade  can  be  pursued  where  the  intervention  of  a 
Malay  occurs.  I  was  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the 
value  of  the  goods  lent  by  him  on  credit,  as  well  as  the 
returns  for  them,  and  in  the  offers  made  to  me  by  the 
Sultan  of  Gunung  Taboor,  begging  me  to  induce  English 
merchants  "  to  reside  at  Gunung  Taboor,  and  trade,"  I 
ascertained,  that  he  was  a  loser  of  nearly  three  hundred 
per  cent,  by  trusting  to  his  agent,  Si  Dawut.  I  had  oc- 
casion, also,  to  deal  with  the  Bugis  traders,  who  endea- 
voured to  monopolize  the  whole  trade  of  Borneo ;  and  I 
found,  by  reference  to  their  transactions  with  the  Sultan 


122  TRADING  ADVANTAGES.         [1846. 

of  Balungan,  as  well  as  at  Gunung  Taboor,  that  their 
profits  were  enormous,  charging  for  the  quantity  of  rice, 
valued  at  about  one  dollar  at  Sooloo,  about  forty  dollars 
here.  With  regard  to  handkerchiefs,  valued  at  two 
dollars,  Sooloo,  we  could  not  make  a  comparison,  as 
those  from  Celebes  passed  through  Dutch  channels ;  but 
the  intrinsic  value  at  which  the  Sultan  reckoned  them 
was  ten  dollars  each,  being  five  hundred  per  cent,  on  the 
Manila  prices,  and  if  exchanged  for  Bird's  nests,  some- 
times reaching  the  value  of  twenty. 

These  remarks  are  intended  to  apply  chiefly  to  the 
supposed  sources  of  trade  arising  from  Maludu  Bay  with 
Balambangan.  Of  the  value  of  this  trade  I  am  informed 
that  nothing  but  Camphor-Barns,  Seed-Pearls,  Shells, 
Tripang,  and  a  small  quantity  of  Tortoise  Shell,  may  be 
expected  from  this  source ;  and  this  not  offering  sufficient 
profit  to  an  Arab  merchant  to  repeat  the  venture  at  the 
risk  of  his  property,  as  well  as  life.  We  may  safely  in- 
quire then,  would  an  English  trader,  differing  so  totally  in 
religion,  enter  these  haunts  of  what  are  designated,  at  the 
present  day,  "  pirate  dens  ",  to  seek  for  goods  where  one 
of  their  own  tribe  is  scarcely  safe  ?  It  is  only  necessary 
to  turn  our  attention  to  the  river  Kotai.  Have  the  Dutch, 
or  English,  after  repeated  attempts  for  a  series  of  years, 
succeeded  in  opening  trade,  by  the  intervention  of  Euro- 
peans, with  the  Ruling  Powers  in  that  river?  It  is 
monopolized  by  the  Bugis  traders  of  Celebes,  and  so 
great  is  their  influence  there,  that  it  is  supposed  to  be 
their  object  to  exclude  even  their  own  allies,  the  Dutch. 
This  feeling  prevails  throughout  Borneo,  but  at  Gunung 
Taboor,  as  well  as  at  Balungan,  the  Sultans  have  been 


1846.]  ISLAND  OF  TAMBISAN.  123 

taught  to  what  extent  they  suffer,  by  allowing  them- 
selves to  be  imposed  upon  by  these  wandering  merchants. 
They  have  now  ascertained  that  the  goods  previously 
imported  are  very  far  inferior  in  quality  to  those  of  British 
manufacture,  and  that  the  prices  charged  by  the  Bugis 
traders  are  about  eight  hundred  per  cent,  above  a  fair 
return,  or  considerably  greater  than  if  they  opened  a 
direct  trade  with  Singapore  in  their  own  vessels,  an  event 
which  will  certainly  follow  the  suppression  of  piracy  on 
the  shores  of  Borneo. 

These  observations  apply  particularly  to  the  rivers  in 
the  Curan  district,  where  the  produce  of  the  native  tribes 
of  the  interior  would  arrive  at  a  free  market,  uncontrolled 
by  the  customary  tyranny  of  the  Malay  Rulers.  But 
there  is  another  trading  position  on  the  N.E.  angle  of 
Borneo,  where  the  merchant  is  saved  the  trouble,  as  well 
as  risk,  of  seeking  an  inland  market.  This  is  within  the 
Island  of  Tambisan,  or,  in  the  harbour  formed  by  the 
canal  which  separates  it  from  Unsang.  It  is  supposed 
that  this  is  the  head  quarters,  or  general  rendezvous,  of 
the  pirates  of  the  neighbouring  seas,  and  that  all  the 
lawless  traders  assemble  here  to  exchange  property. 
Here  the  Bugis,  as  well  as  the  contraband  Singapore 
traders,  furnish  the  necessary  supplies,  of  arms  and  am- 
munition, to  those  vessels  which  dare  not  enter  a  port 
under  European  jurisdiction.  The  property  in  the 
market,  although  in  many  cases  drawn  from  the  resources 
of  that  part  of  Borneo,  may  be  considered  as  resulting 
either  from  piracy  or  oppressive  taxes  levied  upon  the 
people  of  these  islands;  amongst  the  most  prominent 
objects  at  these  sales,  I  am  informed  that  slaves,  captured 


124  SLAVE  MARKETS.  [1846- 

by  the  Illations  on  the  coasts  of  the  Bisayas,  are  to  be 
found,  and  from  this  point  westerly,  as  well  as  southerly, 
they  are  distributed  along  the  coast.  There  is  also 
another  port,  Tooncoo,  on  the  southern  side  of  Unsang, 
where  a  considerable  slave  market  is  held,  but  this  is 
considered  so  completely  a  pirate  den,  that  no  traders 
venture  there. 

When  piracy  ceases  upon  these  coasts,  and  Labuan 
offers  similar  advantages  for  trading,  as  Singapore,  Tam- 
bisan  may  become  an  important  intermediate  position,  as 
the  southern  rivers  would  find  there  a  mart  for  their 
goods  without  the  risk  and  tediousness  of  the  Singapore 
voyage. 

The  establishment  of  a  British  post  or  colony  on  any 
part  of  the  northern  shores  of  Borneo,  will  not,  I  suspect, 
induce  any  of  the  native  Authorities  to  send  their  pro- 
duce thither  for  sale.  At  Maludu  Bay,  in  particular, 
the  destruction  of  Seriff  Housman  has  deprived  the 
people  of  that  region,  of  the  only  energetic  ruler  who 
could  have  afforded  protection  to  European  traders.  The 
natural  feeling  of  enmity  towards  the  nation  which  has 
punished  them  so  severely,  is  likely  to  continue  for  some 
time,  and  Bugis  and  Malay  influence  will,  for  a  long 
period,  prevent  our  countrymen  from  any  intercourse 
with  the  interior  of  this  region.  With  regard  to  Balabac, 
and  the  islands  northward,  towards  Manila,  they  are  but 
thinly  inhabited,  by  a  similar  race  to  those  of  Banguey, 
and  are  so  averse  to  communication  with  foreigners,  that 
they  could  only  be  dealt  with  through  the  objectionable 
intervention  of  Malay  or  Bugis  agents. 

The  produce  of  this  trade  would  be  chiefly  confined  to 


1846.]  BLACHONG.  125 

the  fishery,  including  Baat,  or  Beche  de  Mer,  Pearl 
Oyster  Shells,  Pearls,  Agal  A  gal,  and  possibly  the 
Uachong,  which  is  composed  of  the  minute  fry  of  fish 
and  shrimps,  immersed  in  a  saline  pickle  until  symptoms 
of  putrescense  appear,  when  they  are  pounded  together 
with  salt,  into  a  paste  something  similar  to  Anchovy. 
This  is  much  esteemed  by  the  Malays ;  when  made  more 
to  the  European  palate,  omitting  the  semi-putrescent 
stage,  as  practised  at  Malacca,  it  becomes  a  very  pala- 
table, and  a  favourite  article  at  the  breakfast  table,  eaten 
either  with  bread,  or  as  sauce  with  fish. 

On  the  19th  of  March,  the  '  Royalist'  rejoined  from 
Singapore,  bringing  provisions,  letters,  &c.  She  had 
called  in  at  Sarawak,  but  as  Mr.  Brooke  was  in  expecta- 
tion of  a  visit  from  the  '  Iris ',  and  his  neighbours  were 
in  rather  a  suspicious  state,  he  was  unable  to  join  us. 
Our  survey  of  the  Balambangan  neighbourhood  being 
complete,  preparations  were  made  for  carrying  on  the 
examination  of  the  northern  coast  of  Borneo.  The  prin- 
cipal station  on  the  peninsular  tongue  off  the  southern 
harbour  of  Balambangan,  was  determined  to  be  in  Lat. 
7°  12'  51"  N.  Long.  116°  49'  8"  E.  Var.  0°  37'  20"  E. 
Dip.  __i°  16'. 

As  the  shores  of  Borneo,  between  Balambangan  and 
our  new  territory  of  Labuan,  have  not  hitherto  been 
closely  examined  or  described,  and  it  is  highly  probable 
that  naval  operations,  as  well  as  mercantile  speculations, 
will  carry  some  of  our  countrymen  to  the  mouths  of  some 
of  the  principal  rivers,  contained  between  these  limits,  I 
trust  that  the  minuteness  which  I  shall  now  feel  obliged 
to  pursue  may  not  prove  monotonous. 


126  ISLAND  OF  KALAMPUNIAN.  [1846. 

Our  first  position  was  taken  up  on  the  Island  of  Kalam- 
punian,  situated  immediately  off  Tanjong  Sampanmangio, 
the  eastern  horn  of  the  great  bay  of  Maludu  Bay,  and 
situated  in  Lat.  7°  4'  17"  N.  Long.  116°  40'  30"  E. 
Although  this  island  appears  to  be  connected  with  the 
main  land  of  Borneo,  there  is  a  fair  and  safe  channel 
between  it,  having  eight  and  nine  fathoms,  and  suffi- 
ciently bold,  on  either  side,  for  a  vessel  to  pass,  without 
risk  by  daylight,  if,  in  chase,  scant  wind  or  any  important 
service  should  render  it  expedient.  After  passing  to  the 
eastward,  the  ground,  southerly,  for  ten  miles,  is  unsafe 
at  two  miles  from  the  shore,  by  reason  of  many  treacherous 
patches  rising  suddenly  from  ten  fathoms,  and  having  as 
little  as  two  fathoms  over  them.  As  the  great  bay  of 
Maludu  was  left  for  future  examination,  our  researches 
did  not  carry  us  further  into  these  intracacies.  The 
coast  from  Tanjong  Sampanmangio,  southerly,  runs  into 
deep  sandy  bays,  but  unsafe  for  anchorage.  Immediately 
within  the  western  cape  fresh  water  will  be  found  at  the 
eastern  extremity  of  the  first  long  sandy  bay.  Here  we 
noticed  numerous  foot  marks  of  the  Water  Buffalo,  and 
during  our  examination  for  the  spring,  several  fine  deer, 
apparently  of  the  Fallow  species,  invited  our  notice,  but 
although  half-a-dozen  muskets  were  discharged  at  them, 
within  a  distance  of  thirty  yards,  none  fell  to  our  share. 
Pigs  also  were  numerous.  A  party  landed  early  the  fol- 
lowing morning  in  the  hopes  of  shooting  them,  but  met 
with  no  better  success ;  unfortunately,  I  had  deemed  the 
report  of  then*  guns  sufficient  to  disturb  the  whole  coast, 
and,  without  being  prepared,  turned  up  a  fine  buck  within 
a  few  yards. 


1846.]  ZEOLITE  BLUFF.  127 

The  first  point,  south-westerly,  from  the  Cape,  distant 
about  five  miles,  is  a  black  rocky  formation  of  basalt,  and 
from  its  enclosing  nodules  of  Zeolite,  received  the  name 
of  Zeolite  Bluff.  Immediately  within  it,  easterly,  a  pretty 
strong  stream  discharges  itself  into  the  sea,  but  at  low 
water  leaves  the  sand  bare  for  a  considerable  distance, 
seaward. 

South-westerly  of  Zeolite  Bluff  will  be  seen  the  high 
rocks  of  Batomande,  connected  with  Tanjong  Agal  Agal  by 
a  low  reef  above  water,  but  there  are  one  or  two  channels 
through  which  boats  may  pass.  It  would  be  possible  to 
carry  a  vessel  through,  but,  except  in  cases  of  extremity, 
highly  dangerous.  Our  station  was  taken  up  upon  the 
inner  rock,  elevated  above  the  sea  forty  feet.  The  outer 
rock  is  about  ten  feet  higher,  and  accessible ;  its  cavities 
swarm  with  a  very  light-coloured  Bat.  Two  rivers  are 
in  sight  from  Batomande,  easterly.  The  nearest  enters 
at  a  remarkable  white  Bluff  within  the  coast-line,  and 
navigable  by  boats  at  high  water ;  it  was  not  entered  by 
our  boats,  the  rollers  rendering  all  the  line  between  this 
station  and  Zeolite  Bluff  dangerous  of  approach.  The 
second  river  is  easterly,  and  enters  at  the  termination  of 
the  tall  Casuarinas,  but  is  still  more  difficult  of  access. 

About  six  miles  to  the  S.E.  of  Batomande  a  deep 
inlet  occurs,  into  which  two  small  streams  appear  to  dis- 
charge themselves,  which  will  admit  boats  or  canoes  at 
half-tide.  This  is  probably  one  of  the  principal  stations 
of  the  Bajows,  or  Sea  Gipsies,  whom  we  noticed  retreating 
as  we  advanced.  Like  the  Equimaux  they  had  upon  our 
approach  rapidly  packed  up  their  houses,  leaving  the 
main  stakes  still  standing,  and  from  the  remains  of  fish, 


128  TANJONG  AGAL  AGAL.  [1S4G. 

in  all  stages,  very  little  doubt  could  be  entertained  of 
their  piscatory  pursuits. 

Tanjong  Agal  Agal  derives  its  name  from  the  Sea- 
weed of  that   name,  which  is  collected  in  large  quantity 
upon  these  reefs,  extending  nearly  two  miles  towards 
Batomande.      There  are  several  species  of  this  Fucus, 
all  soluble  in  water,  forming  a  very  nutritive  mucilage, 
which   when    mixed   with    acid,    fruit,   or    made    into 
jellies  (as  I  have  noticed  it  at  Seychelles  and  Mauritius) 
produces  a  very  grateful  beverage  for  invalids.    It  forms 
a  considerable  article  of  trade  with  the  Chinese,  particu- 
larly in  the  northern  provinces  of  Chin-chew,  where  it  is 
manufactured  into  a  bright,  substantial,  transparent  yel- 
low jelly,  and  is  sent  in  boxes,  of  about  ten  pounds  each, 
to  Canton.    The  gum,  or  paste,  made  from  it,  is  supposed 
to  possess  the  advantage  of  being  unpalatable  to  insects 
or  worms.    It  is  from  this  gum  that  their  fancy  lanthorns 
are  fabricated,  by  spreading  it   over   gauze   skeletons, 
it  thus  resembles,  and  is  very  frequently  mistaken  for, 
highly  transparent  horn.     It  is  peculiarly  brittle,  even 
more  so  than  glass,  cracking  under  very  slight  changes  of 
temperature. 

Before  taking  leave  of  this  part  of  Borneo  the  follow- 
ing remarks  by  Dalrymple,  under  the  head  of  "the 
Sooloo  Dominions  in  Borneo ",  may  prove  worthy  the 
attention  of  those  on  whom  may  devolve  the  duty  of  pur- 
suing further  enquiries  in  this  region.  Speaking  of 
Maludu  (more  correctly  so  written)  he  observes : — 

"  Malloodoo  is,  in  many  respects,  one  of  the  most 
valuable  districts  on  Borneo.  Few  places  equal  it  in  the 
abundance  of  provisions,  nor  is  it  destitute  of  valuable 


1846.]  DALRYMPLE'S  ACCOUNT.  129 

articles  of  commerce.  There  are  many  rivers  of  fresh 
water,  which  fall  into  the  Bay  of  Mattoodoo,  which  is  re- 
ported to  have  good  soundings  to  the  very  bottom.  On 
the  east  side  there  is  a  large  shoal,  which,  by  report, 
forms  a  fine  harbour  at  Bankoka,  where  is  a  very  fine 
landing-place,  and  very  fine  Coolit  Lawang,  or  Clove 
Bank,  is  produced  here. 

"  The  opposite,  or  west  side,  is  remarkable  for  the 
Pearl  Banks,  which  are  chiefly  found  near  Songy  Basar 
(Sungei  besar  or  Great  River). 

"  The  whole  district  of  Mattoodoo  abounds  with  Rat- 
tans, of  which,  ten  or  twenty  feet  long,  two  or  three 
ship's  load  might  be  had ;  it  also  abounds  in  grain,  and 
inland,  is  very  populous.  The  country  to  the  eastward 
of  Keeney  Balloo  (Kini  Balu)  as  far  as  Sandakan,  is  low 
and  plain,  with  a  few  hillocks,  but  no  high  land,  except  a 
ridge  to  the  southward  of  Bankoka,  which  seems  to  run 
nearly  east  and  west  towards  Paitan,  leaving  a  gap  of 
of  low  land.  At  the  bottom  of  Mattoodoo  Bay,  between 
this  ridge  and  that  which  runs  from  the  Tampassook 
mountains  towards  Sampanmangio ;  through  which,  from 
Banguey  and  Mattoodoo  Bays,  the  high  mountain  of 
Keeney  Balloo  is  seen  to  great  advantage,  rising  abruptly 
on  the  west  to  a  stupendous  height,  and  falling  down  on 
the  east  with  a  gentle  declivity  towards  the  low  land  of 
Sandakan.  This  country  cannot  fail  of  being  one  of  the 
most  fruitful  in  the  world  if  well  cultivated,  and  inhabited 
by  a  civilized  people ;  were  this  the  case,  there  would  be 
an  easy  land  carriage,  of  forty  or  fifty  miles  to  the  Lake  of 
Keeney  Balloo,  which  is  represented  to  exceed  in  magni- 
tude the  Lake  of  Manila,  and  to  have  many  islands  in  it. 

VOL.  II.  K 


130  LAKE  OF  KINI  BALU.  [1846. 

It  is  said  to  be  five  or  six  fathoms  deep  in  some  places, 
and  to  be  the  source  of  all  the  considerable  rivers  in  Borneo, 
about  a  hundred  in  number;  the  water  is  not  limpid, 
but  whitish ;  around  its  margins  are  innumerable  towns 
of  Idaan.  They  have  a  Sovereign  here,  but  in  other 
places  only  Chiefs,  or  Orankys  (orang  kaya,  head,  or  chief 
man).  This  tribe  is  exceedingly  numerous,  but  from 
their  want  of  foreign  communication,  and  some  remark- 
able customs,  they  are  less  addicted  to  commerce  than 
the  value  of  their  country  would  make  it  imagined. 
They  have,  however,  an  intercourse  with  Benjar,  and  are 
well  enough  inclined  to  commerce  and  husbandry,  except 
where  their  prejudices  lead  them  into  war." 

These  remarks  appear  to  have  been  written  about  the 
year  1792,  and  are  compiled  upon  the  information  given 
by  Bahatol,  a  clever  navigator,  and  native  of  Sooloo. 
There  are  many  objectionable  parts ;  more  particularly 
those  relating  to  the  range  of  country  between  Kini  Balu 
and  Maludu  Bay,  which  from  the  continuous  range  of 
mountainous  land,  as  viewed  from  the  sea,  must  throw 
great  doubt  upon  this  portion  of  the  narrative.  From 
the  best  information  which  we  were  able  to  obtain, 
the  description  of  the  Lake  of  Kini  Balu,  and  the  inha- 
bitants of  that  region,  is  considered  nearly  fabulous. 
The  eastern  rivers  of  Borneo  about  the  Curan  region, 
result  from  lakes  of  their  own,  possibly  a  chain  may  ex- 
tend towards  Borneo  Proper,  but  our  intelligent  friends 
at  Gunung  Taboor  asserted  that  they  were  on  the  near 
side  of  a  mountain  five  days  journey  from  Bulungan.  As 
I  before  remarked,  these  extracts  are  especially  given  for 
the  sake  of  stimulating  those  who  may  have  occasion  to 


1846.]  PAPPAL.  131 

examine  Borneo,  in  proving  or  disproving  facts  so  very 
minutely  detailed.  Dalyrmple  continues  : — 

"  The  Islands  opposite  to  this  part  of  Borneo,  and,  in- 
deed, the  coast  from  Sampanmangio  to  near  Paitan,  do 
not  properly  come  under  the  denomination  of  the  Sooloo 
dominions,  as  ceded  to  the  English  Company,  and  require 
a  particular  discussion  in  another  place,  as  the  most 
eligible  of  all  situations  for  the  capital  of  the  Oriental 
Polynesia. 

"The  last  district  of  Borneo  is  P appal,  the  limits, 
Sampanmangio  on  the  north,  and  Keemannees  River,  in 
5 1  North  Latitude,  which,  by  treaty,  is  the  limit  south- 
ward, with  the  Kingdom  of  Borneo  Proper. 

"  The  productions  of  this  coast,  in  general,  are  Sago, 
Rice,  Betel-nut,  Cocoa-nut  oil,  Camphor,  Wax,  some 
Pepper,  and  Cinnamon ;  particularly  the  last,  in  some 
quantity,  at  Keemannees.  The  country  is  very  populous, 
the  inland  particularly,  which  is  inhabited  by  Idaan,  as 
are  some  places  on  the  coast.  It  is  extremely  well 
adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  Pepper  and  Cinnamon,  and 
in  a  very  few  years  large  quantities  might  be  had ;  it  is 
very  well  watered,  and  has  the  conveniency  of  many 
rivers  navigable  by  boats,  and  some  even  by  larger  ves- 
sels ;  the  river  of  Tawarran  leads  to  the  Lake  of  Keeney 
Balloo  from  whence  it  is  about  ten  or  twelve  miles  dis- 
tant, and  is  accessible  for  boats ;  that  of  Tampassook  is 
said  to  come  from  thence  also." 

Thus  far  I  have  followed  Dalrymple's  narrative,  we 
now  return  to  an  actual  examination  of  the  coast-line; 
not  being  able,  however,  to  communicate  with  the  Malays 
or  Bajows,  who  generally  kept  a  march  ahead  of  us,  we 

K  2 


132  PIRATE  RIVER.  [1846. 

were  unable  to  obtain  the  names  of  any  of  the  streams 
northward  of  Tampassook. 

Quitting  the  Batomande  rocks,  which  were  determined 
to  be  in  6°  52'  43"  N.,  our  next  position  was  a  cluster  of 
white  rocks  nearly  on  the  chord  of  the  arc,  forming  with  a 
large  black  Peninsula,  about  ten  miles  from  Batomande,  a 
very  extensive,  but  dangerous,  bay.  This  bay  contains  three 
large  streams,  but  difficult  to  enter  except  at  high  water. 
In  the  centre  stream,  off  which  I  had  taken  my  position 
upon  a  high  conical  white  rock,  I  discovered  an  encampment 
which  I  suspected  to  be  Malays,  probably  Illanons.  This 
received  the  name  of  Pirate  river.  Their  prahus  were  hauled 
within  the  trees,  but  as  their  crews  came  without  fear  to  the 
beach,  and  made  signs  for  us  to  land,  it  may  be  assumed 
they  were  not  Bajows,  who  would  certainly  not  have  ven- 
tured so  far  from  their  hiding-places.  The  ship  was 
anchored  off  these  rocks  for  the  night,  and  as  the  prahus 
had  not  quitted  before  we  resumed  operations  in  the 
morning,  it  became  prudent  to  watch  them.  Our  in- 
structions, which  most  stringently  forbad  molesting  any 
vessel  not  actually  caught  in  piratical  courses,  prevented 
our  interference,  and  they  were  suffered  to  pass  our 
working  boats  without  examination ;  but  the  well-known 
Illafion  sword  was  noticed  glittering  amongst  them,  a 
weapon  not  at  all  indispensible  in  the  hands  of  the  poor, 
wandering,  peaceable  Bajows,  as  they  term  themselves. 

Southerly  from  this  Black  Peninsula,  the  outer  visible 
objects  are  small  rocky  islets,  distant  about  seven  miles ; 
the  entire  space  between  them  is  not  only  dangerous  of 
approach  to  shipping,  but  even  to  boats,  being  a  continuous 
range  of  reefs,  spitting  out  from  the  land,  and  not  seen 


i! 


/.   frit,  Sriitm,  +.  Sumption .  Oui*tr 

y.   Suntpitnn    7'ufa .  5.  S<u/ai  Jbranf. 

$.   Pouontii  •'ium/jilan    Arn-H' .     6.  RiUt    6>  do 
7.  Rirany    Sratttird  . 


1846.]  ANT  ISLANDS.  133 

distinctly  until  near  low  water.  The  islands  received  the 
name  of  Ant  Islands.  They  are  situated  at  the  extre- 
mity of  the  long  sandy  bay,  extending  from  Abai  and 
Tampassook.  A  small  river  discharges  itself  into  the  sea 
at  the  termination  of  the  sand ;  it  is  not,  however,  acces- 
sible until  high  water,  and  then  at  times  unsafe,  owing  to 
the  prevailing  ground  swell  and  rollers  which  set  in  upon 
this  part  of  the  coast.  A  long  house,  similar  to  those 
noticed  at  the  Tampassook  mouth,  stands  upon  the  sandy 
tongue,  which  I  have  little  doubt  is  an  Illanon  haunt. 
During  the  period  that  I  was  engaged  in  examining  this 
part  of  the  coast,  two  horsemen  made  their  appearance 
on  the  hill  above  us,  and,  had  opportunity  offered,  would 
probably  have  treated  us  with  a  Sumpit  arrow,  as  the 
weapons  which  they  bore  much  resembled  the  Sumpitan, 
or  tube  from  which  it  is  discharged,  and  which  they  have 
the  character  of  using  freely  to  the  eastward  of  Brune. 

The  Sumpitan  is  a  tube  formed  of  hard  wood,  generally 
Casuarina  equiseti/olia,  the  bore  being  of  one  quarter  of 
inch,  and  so  truly  executed  that  it  is  quite  a  matter  of 
surprise  how  it  is  effected,  nor  have  I  been  able  to  learn. 
The  length  varies  from  seven  to  eight  feet,  and  one  of  its 
peculiarities  in  manufacture  is,  that  it  will  only  remain 
truly  straight  in  one  position.  When  this  is  determined, 
an  iron  sight  is  fixed  on  the  upper,  and  a  spear  on  the 
lower  side.  The  arrows  are  generally  nine  inches  in 
length,  formed  of  the  leaflet  ribs  of  the  Nibon  Palm ; 
sometimes  of  the  outer  wood  of  the  tree  itself.  The  sharp 
end  is  anointed  with  a  deadly,  gummy  poison,  in  which 
the  sap  of  the  Upas  is  the  principal  ingredient.  It  dries 
hard  and  brittle,  forming  a  kind  of  sheath,  which  remains 


134  THE  SUMPITAN.  [1846. 

fixed  in  the  object  which  it  pierces,  whilst  the  arrow  falls 
away.  The  inner  end  of  the  arrow  is  inserted  through  a 
small  cone,  formed  of  the  pith  of  the  Nibon,  which  is 
compressible,  like  cork ;  as  the  pith  closes  the  aperture  of 
the  tube,  and  does  not  offer  the  resistance  which  a  harder 
body  would,  it  confines  the  air  sufficiently  to  prevent  any 
escape,  until  the  arrow  has  run  the  length  of  the  tube, 
and  a  sufficient  impetus  is  thus  acquired  to  project  it  with 
effect  to  the  distance  of  1 50  yards.  The  force  is  such  as  to 
enter  a  fir  plank  to  the  extent  of  an  inch.  The  effect  of 
the  poisoned  arrow,  as  described  by  the  Malays,  is  to 
cause  an  instant  numbness  of  the  limb,  depriving  the 
victim  of  further,  power,  until  death  ensues.  From  the 
very  great  fear  they  entertain,  even  of  the  tube  pointed  at 
them,  there  may  be  some  foundation  for  this  assertion, 
but  it  is  highly  probable  that  in  this,  as  in  many  other 
instances,  the  fatal  result  is  in  great  measure  hastened 
by  fear. 

The  next  direct  line  of  coast  is  that  from  Ant  Islands 
to  the  outer  peak  of  the  Island  of  Oosookan,  within 
which  distance  great  caution  should  be  observed ;  although 
but  two  patches  of  rock  above  water  are  visible,  I  have 
strong  suspicions,  owing  to  the  general  range  of  small 
water,  to  suspect  that  others  will  hereafter  be  met  with. 
I  would  therefore  advise  persons  not  having  special  pur- 
suits in  the  bay,  not  to  go  into  less  than  fourteen  fathoms. 
Midway  between  these  points  is  the  river  Tampassook, 
which  although  it  ran  strong,  and  forced  its  fresh  water 
over  the  salt  for  nearly  half  a  mile  from  its  embouchure,  in 
1844,  was  now  quiet,  and  salt,  within.  The  season  has 
been  peculiarly  dry  throughout  the  coast.  As  no  persons 


1846.]  PORT  OF  ABAI.  135 

showed  themselves  at  the  beach,  and  the  rivers  appeared 
to  be  more  troubled  with  rollers  than  on  our  former  visit, 
no  time  was  lost  here,  but  pushing  on  for  Oosookan  the 
ship  found  a  safe  anchorage  on  its  western  side,  within  a 
white  rock,  which  is  connected  with  the  island.  The 
'  Samarang '  passed  through  this  passage  in  four  fathoms, 
trusting  to  a  former  line  of  soundings,  but  the  day  fol- 
lowing proved  that  she  had  a  very  narrow  escape,  several 
of  the  rocks  being  very  near  the  surface.  Such  how- 
ever, is  the  common  fate  of  Surveyors,  who  often  pass 
unwarily  over  dangers  of  considerable  hazard.  My  at- 
tention was  now  directed  to  the  Port  and  River  of  Abai, 
where,  indeed,  we  hoped  to  obtain  a  supply  of  fresh 
water,  as  well  as  bullocks  from  the  Port  of  Ambong,  im- 
mediately within  us. 

Of  this  region  Dalyrmple  remarks : — 

"  Tampassook,  Abai,  Loobook,  and  Amboong  are  inha- 
bited by  Mahometans,  and  form  one  jurisdiction.  The 
first  a  fresh-water  river,  with  a  bar  of  two  fathoms  at 
high  water ;  it  is  fresh  at  the  bar,  and  within,  has  three 
and  four  fathoms,  it  is  reported  to  come  from  the  Lake  of 
Keeney  Battoo,  and  has  a  gold  mine  near  it. 

"  The  river  of  the  Tampassook,  a  few  miles  inland,  ap- 
proaches very  near  that  of  Abai,  which  is  salt  for  many 
miles  up,  leaving  a  long  narrow  Isthmus  between  them ; 
the  natives  have  had  some  thoughts  of  directing  the 
Tampassook  River  across  this  into  the  channel  of  Abai, 
which  is  even  now  accessible  at  all  times  by  small  vessels, 
and  would  then  probably  be  so  by  large. 

"  The  harbour  and  river  of  Abai  are  superior  to  any 
between  Sampanmangio  and  Pulo  Gaya  (and,  indeed,  is 


136  BAR  OF  TAMPASSOOK.  [1846. 

the  only  place  where  vessels  have  shelter  from  westerly 
winds)  except  Amboong,  which  is  near  to  Abai,  and  is  re- 
presented to  be  a  good  harbour.  The  country  here 
abounds  with  grain,  and  considerable  quantities  of  Pep- 
per and  Cinnamon  would  be  had  in  a  short  time,  were 
the  cultivation  encouraged." 

With  respect  to  the  bar  of  Tampassook ;  that  has  now 
less  than  nine  feet  at  high  water,  and  we  have  shown  that 
its  freshness,  outside,  depends  upon  the  rains.  Prom  our 
investigation  of  Abai  River,  it  is  probable  that  the  des- 
cription of  Dalrymple  is  correct ;  but  both  harbour  and 
river  have,  since  his  day,  been  filled  up  by  sand,  and  com- 
paratively disappeared ;  the  eastern  entrance  affords  ten 
feet  on  the  bar,  and  that  between  Oosookan  and  the 
main,  nearly  dry  at  low  water.  The  harbour  of  Abai  may 
therefore  be  considered  as  affording,  at  present,  nothing 
beyond  boat  shelter ;  and  although  provided  with  guides 
from  Ambong,*  they  were  unable  to  point  out  where  fresh 
water  could  be  procured.  The  river  within,  which  mean- 
ders to  the  south-east,  carries  three,  four,  or  five  fathoms, 
by  keeping  on  the  left  hand ;  the  middle  ground  is  very 
shallow.  No  villages  were  met  with  on  the  banks,  nor 
any  inducement  for  small  vessels  to  enter,  unless  it  be  to 
receive  cargo  from  Tampassook,  or  by  arrangement  with 
the  Sultan  of  that  place.  If  intending  to  embark  bullocks, 
or  horses,  purchased  from  the  Sultan,  this  river  would  be 
the  most  convenient  spot  to  ship  them  (by  boats)  to  the 
vessel  anchoring  in  Oosookan  Bay.  This  may  answer  for 
vessels  well  armed,  but  I  consider  this  peculiar  haunt  of  the 
Illanons  at  present  unsafe  ground.  I  am  much  surprised 
*  Ambung  is  probably  more  correct. 


J 


Dn.fiiii    Dvttk  . 


1846.]  VISIT  FROM  THE  SULTAN.  137 

that  Dalrymple  should  have  overlooked  the  fine  harbour  of 
Ambong  affording  shelter  to  Ships  of  the  Line ;  but  as 
his  communications  were  chiefly  confined  to  Malay  in- 
terests it  is  probable  that  they  prevented  his  coming  into 
contact  with  the  Idaan  *,  or  Dusun  tribes  of  this  region. 

During  our  visit  to  Abai  River,  the  Sultan  of  Tampas- 
sook  came  thither,  by  sea,  to  meet  us,  and  accepted  my 
invitation  to  visit  the  '  Samarang '  on  the  following  day. 
During  his  visit  he  endeavoured  to  impress  on  me  the 
advantage  of  procuring  our  supplies,  &c.,  from  Tampas- 
sook,  but  on  comparing  the  prices,  which  he  wished  paid 
in  silver,  we  found  that  every  article  would  be  about  400 
per  cent  dearer  than  at  Ambong.  He  appeared  very 
jealous  about  our  preference  for  Ambong,  and  when  in- 
formed of  the  lower  prices  at  that  port,  I  could  perceive 
his  Malay  spirit  rise,  and  his  eyes  flashing  revenge  as  he 
observed  to  his  Prime  Minister  "and  yet  these  very 
cattle  come  from  our  city."  He  was  accompanied  by  a 
slave,  a  native  of  Luzon,  who  had  been  kidnapped  by  the 
Illations,  at  Ilo  Ilo,  and  sold  here  for  twenty-five  dollars. 

This  man  having  stated  his  case  to  me,  and  asked  for 
protection,  was  informed  that  he  was  free,  but  as  he  pre- 
ferred returning  with  the  Sultan,  and  making  his  escape 
by  canoe,  he  was  permitted  to  take  his  course,  his  prin- 
cipal object  being,  as  I  understood,  to  obtain  rice  to 
maintain  him.  After  many  friendly  expressions  from  the 

*  Dalrymple  in  describing  the  Idaan,  makes  use  of  the  following : — 

"  There  is  a  race  of  people  in  some  part  of  the  Sooloo  dominions  on 

Borneo,  so  peculiar  in  customs  and  opinions  that  they  claim  particular 

attention  ;  these  are   called  Idaan.     It  is  proper,  however,  to  observe, 

that  what  I  know  of  them  is  only  from  the  reports  of  the  Soolooit" 


138  RELEASE  A  SPANIARD.  [1846. 

Sultan,  and  explanations  relative  to  his  connexion  by 
marriage  with  the  Rajah  Muda  Hassim  and  Buddurud- 
din,  he  acquainted  me  that  they  had  received  intelligence 
from  Brune  that  the  Rajah  and  eleven  brothers  had  been 
put  to  death  by  the  Sultan's  party,  because  they  were  too 
friendly  towards  the  white  foreigners.  He  expressed 
himself  very  much  enraged  at  the  act,  and  offered  to  as- 
semble his  forces  and  accompany  me  to  Brune,  to  punish 
the  Sultan.  Finding  that  I  would  not  act  with  him,  he 
requested  permission  to  send  his  vessels  under  my  convoy; 
upon  this  being  declined,  he  begged  that  1  would  allow 
them  to  pass  by  me  unmolested.  As  I  had  some  suspicion 
of  this  Sultan,  and  that  their  voyage  might  turn  out  a 
piratical  one,  I  declined  answering.  Shortly  after  daylight 
our  Spanish,  or  rather  Luzon,  slave  stepped  on  our  decks  a 
free  man,  and  before  the  day  had  far  advanced  was  rigged 
out  as  one  of  our  crew,  and  quite  at  home.  The  '  Royalist/ 
which  had  been  despatched  to  Ambong,  returned  with 
a  supply  of  bullocks,  and  from  one  of  the  outer  bays,  near 
our  anchorage,  we  had  been  fortunate  enough  to  procure 
a  small  addition  of  tolerable  water,  although  of  rather  a 
milky  hue.  A  short  visit  to  the  Mantanani  Group  de- 
termined its  dangers,  but  we  found  nothing  interesting, 
either  on  shore  or  afloat,  to  delay  us  in  that  neighbour- 
hood. Prom  our  different  stations  along  this  coast,  but 
more  particularly  from  Labuan,  Ambong,  Tampassook 
and  Mantanani,  very  minute  observations  had  been  made, 
with  a  view  to  determine  the  height  of  the  mountain  of 
Kini  Balu,  which  frequently  afforded  a  most  beautiful 
back-ground,  particularly  from  the  spot  which  we  were 
now  quitting,  having  its  pinnacles  standing  out  in  beau- 


<3        _: 

V 


1846.]  RIVER  SULAMAN.  139 

tiful  relief  between  the  continuous  receding  bluffs  of 
Ambong,  from  the  depth  of  which  bay  it  appeared  at 
dawn  to  rise  perpendicularly,  although  at  least  twenty- 
seven  miles  inland.  The  position  of  the  highest  pinnacle 
was  computed  to  be  in  Latitude  6°  8'  24"  N.,  and  Lon- 
gitude 116°  33'  E.,  the  mean  height  resulting  from  the 
three  best  stations  giving  13,698  feet  above  the  mean 
level  of  the  sea. 

We  had  hardly  commenced  our  progress  from  Ambong 
when  we  discovered  two  suspicious  prahus  stealing  along- 
shore ;  the  advanced  boats  immediately  pursued,  and  after 
about  four  hours  chase  came  up  with  them  at  the  entrance 
of  the  river  Sulaman,  about  ten  miles  from  Ambong; 
as  their  fittings  and  cargo  did  not,  however,  exhibit  signs 
of  piratical  pursuits,  they  were  allowed  to  proceed. 

The  river  Sulaman,  which  is  simply  described  by 
Dalrymple  as  "inhabited  by  Idaan"  appears  to  be  a 
much  finer  river  than  Tampassook,  and  accessible,  without 
danger,  to  vessels  of  twelve  feet.  The  inhabitants 
have  extensive  fisheries  on  its  banks,  but,  either  from 
the  recent  chase,  or  disinclination  to  communicate,  fled 
upon  our  approach.  It  could  hardly  arise  from  fear, 
as  at  the  period  of  my  visit,  after  noon,  all  our  large 
boats  were  absent,  and  the  gig  alone  entered.  From  the 
mouth  of  the  Sulaman  to  the  river  Kawalan  is  about  two 
miles.  Here  we  found  an  extensive  village,  and  were 
visited  by  some  of  the  people,  who  brought  us  presents 
of  fish,  and  appeared  disposed  to  be  on  friendly  terms. 
They  explained  that  they  belonged  to  the  boats  chased  in 
the  morning,  which  contained  nothing  but  cargoes  of  fish 
and  rice  for  Brune.  The  river  is  navigable,  and  not  troubled 


140  RIVER  KAWALAN.  [1846. 

with  rollers ;  but  the  depth  on  its  bar  will  not  admit 
vessels  drawing  over  six  feet.  Dalrymple  terms  this 
river  "  Tawarran,  inhabited  by  Idaan ;  there  are  many 
goats  in  this  district ;  it  is  very  populous.  About  sixty 
Chinese,  who  left  Borneo  many  years  ago  settled  amongst 
them.  The  river  is  reported  to  be  navigable  for  boats  to 
the  lake  of  Keeney  Balloo." 

The  name  Kawalan  is  scrupulously  adopted  from  a 
very  intelligent  Malay  fisherman ;  but  I  am  inclined  to 
think  that  Tawarran,  as  used  by  Dalrymple,  is  more  cor- 
rect, and,  probably,  immediately  connected  with  the 
character  of  its  waters,  said  to  flow  from  the  lake  of 
Kini  Balu,  tawar,  signifying  fresh  water.  Kimanis  has 
probably  a  similar  character,  mams,  signifying  sweet,  that 
river  also  furnishing  fresh  water.  The  Cape  Sampan- 
mangio  I  have  also  been  informed  (by  my  friend  Mr. 
Brooke)  derives  its  name  from  its  having  been  the  ren- 
dezvous of  the  pirates,  and  is  the  corruption  of  the  words 
Simpang,  point,  and  meng-i-ow,  which  in  seaman-like 
phrase  may  be  reduced  to  "cruizing",  or  pulling  off 
under  oars.  Mr.  Brooke  informs  me,  that  with  all  his 
endeavours  to  trace  the  word  Idaan,  as  used  by 
Dalrymple,  and  adopted  from  him  in  this  work,  he  has 
been  unable  to  find  it  understood  by  any  one  inhabiting 
the  region  to  which  it  is  applied,  and  that  it  is  possibly  a 
Sooloo  term.  This  is  not  improbable.  It  was  so  referred 
to  as  I-daw-an  by  my  naval  friend  at  Gunung  Taboor, 
but  there  it  may  apply  to  one  of  the  Jive  tribes  which  he 
named,  as  intervening  between  the  Sagai  and  Ka-dy-an 
The  papers  containing  these  names,  and  much  valuable 
matter,  accompanied  by  Malay  characters,  has,  unfortu- 


1846.]  GAYA  GROUP.  141 

nately,  been  lost.  Mr.  Brooke  seems  to  think  it  probable 
that  Dalrymple  was  misled  by  the  term  Ka-dy-an. 

The  coast  from  hence  runs  to  Mankabung  Bluff;  the 
river  of  this  name  being  about  two  miles  to  the  S.W.  of 
it.  It  can  be  entered  by  boats,  or  small  traders ;  the  in- 
habitants, which  appear  to  be  of  a  friendly  disposition, 
have  a  small  village  within,  on  the  right.  They  offered 
us  dried  fish  and  fowls,  but  I  suspect  them  to  be  very 
poor.  Dalrymple  remarks  : — 

"Mangcaboong  river  is  inhabited  by  Islam,  it  is 
populous,  there  is  a  sand  bar,  with  two  fathoms  at  high 
water;  at  low,  large  Sooloo  boats  cannot  enter  within 
three  or  four  fathoms ;  there  is  a  salt  lake  about  three 
miles  from  the  bar,  it  has  two  fathoms,  and  in  some 
places  one  fathom.  The  river  above  the  lake  is  rapid 
and  full  of  rocks,  so  that  it  is  not  navigable  but  by 
canoes;  some  say  it  comes  from  the  lake  of  Keeney 
Balloo ;  but  Dato  Saraphodin  thinks  otherwise.  This 
place,  and  those  before  mentioned  produce  some  Pepper." 

We  now  come  to  the  Pulos  Gaya,  or  Gaya  Group,  one 
of  the  best,  and  most  completely  land-locked  harbours  on 
this  coast.  It  is  formed  by  a  high  bluff  on  the  east,  to 
which  I  have  given  the  name  of  Tanjong  Gaya ;  by  the 
Great  Gaya  Island  on  the  west ;  and  by  the  smaller 
Islands  of  Sapangar,  Manukan,  Manukan-Kichi,  and  a 
third  nameless  rock,  stretching  across  the  mouth.  The 
main  entrance  lies  between  Sapingar  and  Manukan. 
Within  these  bounds  lie  situated  the  rivers  Kabatuan  and 
Inanam. 

The  Kabatuan,  which  may  be  approached  to  within 
half  a  mile  of  its  mouth,  in  five  fathoms,  is  the  more  im- 


142  PANGERAN  MADAOUT.  [1846. 

portant,  and  is  situated  in  the  northern,  and  eastern 
angle  of  the  great  bay.  Upon  our  arrival  here,  several 
canoes  came  down  to  visit  us  at  one  of  our  stations,  close 
to  the  mouth  of  the  river.  As  this  occurred  at  sunset, 
and  they  exhibited  a  profusion  of  shields,  bright  mus- 
kets, &c.,  and  their  crews  apparently  ready  for  the  fray, 
I  declined  their  acquaintance  for  the  night,  communi- 
cating only  with  the  leading  canoe,  and  informing  the 
chief  that  I  should  visit  him  in  the  morning. 

On  the  day  following  the  boat  division  entered  the  river, 
when  the  spokesman,  or  master  of  the  ceremonies  of  their 
party,  exhibited  some  alarm  at  our  intention  of  ascending 
the  river.  Suspecting  this  to  proceed  from  fear  of  our  guns 
I  offered  to  go  in  my  gig,  or  even  in  his  canoe.  This  was 
objected  to,  as  frightening  the  people.  After  a  long  delay 
it  was  announced  that  the  Sultan  was  coming,  and  shortly 
after  arrived,  in  state,  one  of  the  half-brothers  of  the  Rajah 
Muda  Hassim,  Pangeran  Madaout,  as  he  termed  himself. 
From  him,  the  intelligence  of  the  murders  mentioned  by 
the  Sultan  of  Tampassook,  was  confirmed,  with  the  as- 
sertion that  the  same  parties  sought  his  life  at  Kabatuan, 
but  that  his  party  was  too  strong.  His  little  son,  Tajudin, 
a  lad  about  eight  years  old,  was  with  him,  and  instantly 
recognized  me  as  one  of  his  Sarawak  friends,  holding  up 
the  kris  of  Budduruddin,  the  handle  of  which  had  been 
carved  from  a  walrus  tooth  which  I  had  presented  to 
him.  All  the  party  appeared  to  participate  in  the  de- 
pression which  appeared  to  weigh  heavily  upon  their 
Chief,  on  the  loss  of  his  relatives  under  such  distressing 
circumstances. 

The   canoes  which   came  down   upon   this   occasion 


1846.]  RIVER  INANAM.  143 

evidently  expected  to  "  make  trade  ",  having  full  cargoes  of 
black  Pepper,  fine  Tobacco  (much  prized  by  connoiseurs), 
Bees'  wax,  Camphor  (barus  or  crystallized),  Sharks'  fins, 
Beche  de  Mer,  edible  Birds'  nests,  Tortoise  shells,  and 
probably  Pearls  and  Gold  dust. 

Towards  night,  a  messenger  came  off  requesting 
medical  aid,  and  Mr.  Adams  having  volunteered,  started 
in  a  canoe  to  their  assistance.  It  turned  out  to  be  merely 
some  affliction  of  a  trifling  nature  amongst  the  women ; 
it  afforded,  however,  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  country. 

Under  the  promise  of  a  visit  from  the  Chief  on  the 
following  day,  the  ship  was  moved  close  off"  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  but  he  was  either  afraid  to  trust  himself  outside 
his  territory,  or  probably  too  much  distressed  to  attempt 
it.  This  river  can  only  be  entered  by  boats ;  the  outer 
edge  of  the  bar,  which  stretches  entirely  across,  is  coral- 
line, succeeded  by  sand  at  its  shoalest  part,  where  it  is  con- 
nected with  a  large  dry  sandy  delta,  occupying  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  channel,  and  exhibiting  symptoms  of  strong 
freshes.  Immediately  after  passing  this,  the  river  deepens, 
and  appears  to  afford  a  good  space  of  water  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach.  Our  boats  entered  to  procure  water, 
but  found  that  it  was  merely  a  small  spring  which  fed 
a  well,  which  our  forcing  pumps  cleared  in  a  few  minutes. 
On  taking  leave  of  this  Chief  he  begged  to  be  remem- 
bered to  his  friend  Mr.  Brooke,  of  whom  he  spoke  in  very 
affecting  terms,  and  to  whom  he  looked  forward  for  pro- 
tection. Judging  from  the  numbers  of  canoes,  the  popu- 
lation must  be  great. 

The  river  Inanam  is  situated  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
to  the  westward  of  the  Kabatuan,  and  is  still  more  diffi- 


1846.]  KIMANIS  BAY.  143 

cult  of  approach,  owing  to  the  sand  banks,  which  run  a 
considerable  distance  off.  Excepting  the  chances  of  com- 
municating with  the  interior  it  did  not  appear  to  afford 
any  advantage  beyond  that  of  a  fishing  station. 

Dalrymple's  account  appears  at  fault  here,  I  have 
therefore  omitted  further  comparison. 

The  large  Island  of  Gaya  being  connected  by  a  reef, 
only  admitting  of  a  boat  passage  at  high  water,  I  consider 
the  inner  waters  to  belong  to  Gaya  Bay.  Exterior  to 
it,  westerly,  we  have  other  islands  which  certainly  may 
be  classed  in  the  group,  but  which  deserve  separate 
notice.  There  are  four  immediately  in  connection  to  the 
westward,  and  three  others  scattered,  named  Sugara,  Di- 
nawan  or  Salangar,  and  Llanliangan,  named  by  us  Button 
Island,  stretching  as  far  as  the  eastern  horn  of  Pulo  Tiga 
Bay.  Within  these  islands  are  situated  the  rivers  Papar 
and  Pangalat.  The  river  Kinarut,  which  enters  near  the 
bluff  of  that  name,  is  navigable  by  boats.  The  village  is 
situated  on  the  delta,  formed  by  its  smaller  mouth,  in  the 
sandy  bay,  about  two  miles  easterly. 

The  eastern  head  of  the  great  Pulo  Tiga,  or  Kimanis 
Bay,  is  Kiriindukan  bluff  and  Hummock.  The  first  river 
is  the  Minani ;  it  is  barred,  but  boats  can  enter  at  high 
water.  The  next  is  Bangawan,  barred  completely;  but  at 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  southerly,  we  fell  in  with  a  natural 
canal,  or  strip  of  water,  parallel  to  the  beach,  containing 
most  excellent  water.  The  ship  was  anchored  in  good 
muddy  holding  ground,  within  half  a  mile  of  the  beach, 
and  our  wants  completed  with  great  ease.  This  spot  is 
worthy  of  particular  notice,  as  we  were  much  distressed 
to  find  a  good  watering  position,  and  had  tried  in  vain 


1846.]  RIVER  KIMANIS.  145 

all  the  reported  wells  and  fresh-water  rivers  without  suc- 
cess, Tampassook  excepted,  which  I  believe  will  always 
afford  good  water  within  its  mouth. 

Four  miles  southerly  from  Bangawan  is  the  Kimanis 
river,  the  boundary  of  the  Sooloo  Territory,  described  by 
Dalrymple  as  ceded  to  the  East  India  Company.  We 
had  been  informed  that  this  was  a  stream  like  the  Tam- 
passook',  forcing  its  fresh  waters  into  the  sea.  The  pre- 
vailing drought  had  its  effect  here,  and  we  were  informed 
that  it  could  only  be  obtained  by  sending  our  casks  in 
native  canoes  up  the  river,  an  experiment  which,  in  the 
present  state  of  affairs,  I  was  not  disposed  to  try,  inde- 
pendent of  our  having  obtained  as  much  as  we  required 
for  the  present.  This  river  may  be  entered  at  high  water 
by  boats  or  canoes ;  the  rollers  are  not  troublesome  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  mouth,  where  three  spits,  parallel 
to  the  coast,  break  it,  and  afford  shelter  within.  Trade 
may  be  carried  on  with  these  people,  who  are  of  two 
distinct  races,  Bajow  and  Kadyan,  but  caution  is  neces- 
sary. A  Malay  orang-kaya  governs  at  the  beach,  and 
from  several  facts  I  noticed,  I  think  their  mountain 
friends,  the  Kadyans,  would  not  hesitate  to  obtain  by 
force  that  which  might  be  denied  in  barter. 

Our  operations  here  were  attended  with  some  difficulty. 
On  the  evening  of  my  first  visit,  when  unaccompanied  by 
proper  force,  a  feeling  was  exhibited  which  very  much 
resembled  a  disposition  to  be  troublesome,  and  I  thought 
that  1  perceived  suspicious  motions,  in  recovering  their 
arms  which  had  been  left  concealed  in  the  bush.  An 
Oyster  catcher,  of  a  species  anxiously  wished  for,  but  so 
often  missed  by  me  as  to  obtain  the  appellation  of  "  the 

VOL.  II.  L 


146  DEATH  OF  PANGERAN  USOP.  [1846. 

Fairy  ",  as  if  bearing  a  charmed  life,  happened  to  alight  at 
good  ball  range ;  the  temptation  was  too  strong  :  I  fired, 
and,  fortunately  perhaps  for  the  termination  of  the  evening, 
the  ball  took  effect.  Our  suspicious  friends  took  the  hint, 
bade  us  good  night,  and  hoped  to  see  us  in  the  morning. 
On  the  day  following  I  was  attended  by  the  two  cutters, 
with  their  guns.  Traffic  for  poultry,  eggs,  goats,  &c., 
went  on  fairly,  but  the  prices  for  bullocks,  agreed  on  the 
previous  evening,  were  very  materially  increased.  We 
therefore  purchased  less  than  intended,  which  displeased 
the  Kadyans. 

The  party  on  this  river,  are  said  to  be  neutral  as  to 
the  late  massacre  in  Brune.  One  party  being  adherents 
of  the  Sultan  of  Borneo,  the  other,  relatives  of  the  Sultan 
of  Tampassook.  It  was  at  this  river,  that  Budduruddin 
(the  half-brother  of  the  Rajah  Muda  liassim)  overtook 
Pangeran  Usop,  and  under  an  official  warrant  from  the 
Sultan  put  him  to  death.  This,  it  is  stated,  was  the  bond 
fide  cause  of  the  slaughter,  which  ensued,  of  the  ten  bro- 
thers of  that  party.  They  were  civil  to  us,  so  long  as 
our  boat  force  was  assembled,  but  I  was  informed,  much 
inclined  to  give  trouble  after  I  quitted  the  beach.  The 
people  of  the  Kimanis  assured  us  that  we  should  find 
no  more  good  men  between  them  and  Brune,  "  that  they 
were,  principally,  bad  Bajows." 

I  have  mixed  much  with  all  parties  with  whom  I  could 
do  so  without  foolhardiness.  The  Malays,  invariably, 
describe  all  the  mountain  races,  as  well  as  the  Bajows, 
"bad  and  dangerous  people."  The  same  character  is 
given  of  the  Malays  by  their  opponents,  and,  pro- 
bably, as  respects  themselves,  with  some  justice.  But 


1846.]  KUALA  LAMA.  147 

the  poor  Bajows  tell  you  "  we  are  the  poor  but  good 
Bajows ;  and  I  have  met  with  more  apparent  warmth  of 
heart,  amongst  them  than  amongst  Malays.  Any  act  of 
kindness  which  they  perform,  is  with  cheerfulness,  not 
grudging  time  or  labour.  If  the  least  act,  even  to  obtaining 
a  vessel  of  water,  be  attempted  by  a  Malay,  he  carries  it 
in  the  very  manner,  with  the  awkwardness  of  pride. 

My  own  conviction  is,  that  neither  the  Bajow  nor  any  of 
the  mountain  tribes,  Dyak,  Kadyan,  Dusun,  or  Sagai,  will 
harm  you,  if  they  once  comprehend  who  you  are ;  but 
living  in  constant  dread  of  their  oppressive  neighbour, 
the  Malay,  and  habitually  launching  their  weapons  at 
any  object  not  answering  to  their  idea  of  friend,  it  not 
unfrequently  happens  that  they  are  excessively  shy  in 
meeting  Europeans,  or  dealing  with  them  ;  the  impression 
being,  as  explained  to  me  by  the  Sultan  of  Gunung 
Taboor :  "  They  consider  you,  in  being  superior  to  the 
Dutch,  and  to  ourselves,  as  only  capable  of  doing  them 
so  much  more  injury."  This  was  from  an  honest,  clear- 
headed Malay,  a  Sultan,  "  who  wished  to  be  English, 
and  to  hoist  the  English  Flag."  When,  therefore,  the 
British  character  is  better  known  on  the  east  coast  of 
Borneo  I  am  satisfied  that  the  visits  of  our  vessels  will  be 
courted,  not  avoided  as  pests. 

Westerly,  from  Kimanis,  we  fell  in  with  the  Memba- 
kut,  an  insignificant  stream ;  no  natives  were  seen.  This 
is  succeeded  by  the  Kuala-lama,  termed  fresh.  It  is 
barred  to  anything  above  five  feet  draft,  nearly  dry  at 
low  water,  and  rollers  dangerous.  At  this  river  we  met 
with  two  prahus,  the  crews  of  which  did  not  appear  to 
be  friendly,  they  were  warned  off,  and  departed  rather 

L2 


148  PULO  TIGA.  [1846. 

sulkily.  The  last  river  in  this  great  bay,  is  the  Kuala- 
panco.  This  is  an  extensive  river,  with  a  wide  entrance, 
but  barred  to  vessels  drawing  ten  feet,  or  four  feet  at  low 
water.  No  natives  were  noticed,  either  within  its  mouth, 
nor  in  its  immediate  neighbourhood.  Northerly  of  this, 
the  Pulo  Tiga,  or  three  island  group,  stands  out  to  sea- 
ward, forming  the  western  horn  of  this  great  bay.  The 
largest  of  the  group  is  nearest  to  the  point  of  Borneo, 
and  has  a  safe  channel  between,  although  a  long  reef 
showing  clearly,  as  white  water,  extends  from  the 
southern  part  of  the  island,  and  is  easily  avoided.  The 
current  sets  strongly  easterly.  Between  the  second  and 
third,  the  channel  is  safe,  but  not  without  a  pilot ;  be- 
tween the  outer  and  second,  it  is  barred  by  an  extensive 
flat  of  reef,  studded  with  numerous  rocks.  The  outer 
island,  received  the  name  of  Bird  Island  from  us,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  numerous  bones  and  skeletons  of  birds 
found  upon  it.  As  we  were  delayed  some  time  cleansing 
its  summit  for  a  station,  an  explanation  of  the  unusual 
quantity  of  bones,  &c.,  was  offered  by  the  self-capture  of 
a  bird  in  the  toils  which  cover  the  trees,  consisting  of 
seed.  These  seed-vessels,  belonging  to  an  undescribed 
species  of  Pisonia,  are  covered  with  very  minute  recurved 
hooks,  which  on  being  applied  to  the  skin,  seem  not  only 
to  have  the  power  of  tension,  by  the  hook,  but  are  also 
charged  with  a  fine  resinous  matter,  the  combination 
acting  equal  to  bird-lime.  The  bird  settling  on  the  tree, 
first  finds  the  tips  of  its  feathers  caught,  and,  in  the 
struggle  to  release  itself,  becomes  hampered ;  the  object, 
which  we  found  surprised  by  these  seed-vessels,  had  been 
entangled  between  the  wings  on  the  back,  and  was 


1846.]  BIRD  ISLAND.  149 

utterly  incapacitated  for  flight ;  and  being  found  in  this 
state,  fluttering  for  life,  was  brought  to  me.  As  the 
island  was  covered  with  the  skeletons  of  large  birds,  it  is 
to  be  presumed  that  they  suffer  the  same  fate,  worse 
than  that  of  the  fabled  Upas,  as  there,  life  becomes  sud- 
denly extinct,  whereas  this  becomes  a  lingering  death  by 
starvation,  and  vain  efforts  at  release;  unless  some 
knowing,  superannuated  bird  of  prey  should  take  up  his 
quarters  beneath  the  trees.  Bird  Island  is  surrounded 
by  a  reef,  which  projects  northerly  about  one  mile,  and 
south-westerly,  about  two.  Four  miles  north  of  it,  is  a 
reef,  with  four  rocks  shewing  above  water,  but  the 
channel  betwen  it  and  Bird  Island  is  safe  by  day.  The 
dangers  outside  of  it  have  not  been  examined. 

Here   the   rivers  contained   between   Sampanmangio 
and  Labuan  terminate. 


150 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

LABUAN  TO  MAURITIUS. 

Coast  of  Bird  Island — Attack  of  Pirates — Revisit  Labuan — Discovery 
of  a  Watering  Bay — List  of  Rivers — Lines  of  Coal — Reach 
Sarawak  —  Death  of  Mr.  Williamson  —  Detail  of  Massacre  at 
Brune — Loss  of  the  Sultan  Muda  Hassim — Observations  on  the 
Trading  interests  of  Borneo — Letter  from  Mr.  Jesse  to  the  East 
India  Company — Chinese  located  in  the  City  of  Brune — Of  the 
Mission  about  to  sail  for  Borneo  —  Original  Paper  from  Mr. 
Brooke,  on  the  state  of  the  Indian  Archipelago,  in  1838,  bearing 
on  the  present  aspect  of  affairs  at  Borneo — Leave  Borneo,  passing 
Tanjong  Api  and  St.  Pierre  Islands— Land  on  Barren  Island— Reach 
Singapore — Dullness  of  the  town — Life  and  bustle  introduced  by 
landing  of  the  Ship's  Crew — Description  of  the  town — Division  of 
the  Inhabitants — Manufacture  of  Pirate  arms — Occupation  of 
Pulo  Brani,  or  Gage  Island — Leave  Singapore — Island  of  Billi- 
ton — Strike  on  a  rock — Dangerous  situation  of  the  Ship  — 
Lighten  the  Ship  of  Guns  and  Spars,  and  escape  into  deep  water 
— New  Island  named  Pigeon  Island — Dangers  of  the  Carimata 
Channel — Reach  Anjer,  Straits  of  Sunda — Opinion  relative  to  the 
erection  of  a  Lighthouse — Arrive  at  Cocos  or  Keeling  Islands — 
Sailing  qualities  of  the  '  Samarang '  class — Reach  the  Cargados 
Garajos — Transactions  there — Visit  Mauritius. 

THE  coast  from  Bird  Island  towards  Labuan,  is  not  safe  to 
approach  within  the  depth  of  twenty  fathoms,  until  more 
closely  examined.  During  our  progress  along  the  coast-line, 
I  determined  on  walking  the  beach  between  two  stations, 
in  preference  to  calling  the  gig  in  to  convey  me,  and  ac- 
companied by  one  of  my  boat's  crew,  carrying  a  fowling- 
piece,  in  addition  to  his  musket,  and  our  Spanish  captive, 


1846.]  ATTACK  OF  PIRATES.  151 

now  acting  as  interpreter  in  the  Bajow  tongue,  was  saun- 
tering quietly  along,  the  Spaniard  walking  at  the  water 
line,  picking  up  shells  abreast  of  me,  my  course  being 
about  ten  yards  above  him,  and  the  same  distance  from  the 
trees.  Suddenly,  I  heard  a  ringing  shot,  apparently  be- 
hind me,  and  thinking  the  seaman  was  firing  the  fowling- 
piece  at  some  object,  turned  round  to  inquire  what  he 
was  about ;  his  reply  was,  "  they  are  shooting  you,  Sir," 
and  advancing  rapidly  to  give  me  the  fowling-piece, 
darted  towards  the  trees,  where  he  suddenly  discharged 
his  musket.  A  yell  from  the  jungle  soon  informed  me 
that  we  were  upon  unsafe  ground,  and  the  gig  was 
promptly  in  to  support  me.  No  one  could  be  seen, 
and  all  was  again  quiet,  when  my  poor  Spaniard,  who 
had  taken  it  very  coolly,  shewed  me  his/roc^,  which  he 
said  they  had  damaged.  I  then  found  that  they  had  hit 
him  instead  of  me,  the  ball  cutting  his  arm  and  grazing 
his  back,  through  his  frock.  Our  force,  consisting  of 
the  gig's  crew,  being  now  in  fighting  order,  and  the  boats 
signalled  to  close,  the  cutter,  with  Mr.  Richards,  and 
second  barge,  with  Lieut.  Richardson,  were  soon  moving 
towards  us.  In  a  few  moments  an  armed  party  emerged 
from  the  bushes  on  our  right,  and  held  out  a  dirty  cloth  on 
a  spear.  They  were  warned  back,  but  seemed  to  despise 
our  warning.  I  therefore  ordered  musketry  to  be  fired 
towards  them.  They  immediately  exhibited  themselves 
in  then"  true  colours,  cutting  all  imaginable  capers  of 
defiance  with  their  shields,  and  swords,  and  using  insul- 
ting gestures.  The  cutter  was  directed  to  give  them  a 
round  shot,  which  went  over  them.  This,  they  also 
derided,  redoubling  their  defiance,  and  advancing,  but 


152  REVISIT  LABUAN.  [1846. 

the  second  round  appeared  to  take  effect,  as  they  carried  off 
their  man,  and  quitted  us  altogether.  Upon  examining 
the  spot  where  the  affair  took  place,  a  well-fitted  prahu, 
evidently  adapted  for  war  purposes,  was  found  hauled  up 
amongst  the  trees ;  she  was  launched,  and  taken  to  the 
ship.  A  few  shot  were  then  fired  over  a  village  seen 
through  the  trees  on  the  heights,  in  order  to  show  them, 
that,  insignificant  as  our  boats  might  appear  in  their 
estimation,  their  guns  would  throw  their  shot,  effectually, 
much  beyond  their  calculation,  after  which,  we  left  them 
to  ponder  over  the  result  of  their  wanton  provocation. 

On  the  23rd  April  we  anchored  off  the  eastern  passage 
to  Labuan,  and  completed  the  survey  of  the  outer  dangers, 
left  unfinished  in  November,  1844.  In  consequence  of 
reports  in  circulation,  relative  to  the  entire  failure  of 
water,  at  the  period  that  it  was  visited  by  the  Squadron 
during  the  late  year,  my  attention  was  principally  di- 
rected to  the  discovery  of  this  necessary,  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  support  any  establishment  which  the  British 
Government  might  make  upon  this  island,  in  consequence 
of  the  offer  of  its  cession,  which  had  been  made  by  the 
Sultan  and  Chiefs  through  the  intervention  of  Mr.  Brooke 
and  the  Rajah  Muda  Hassim,  and  which,  as  before  noticed, 
had  been  forwarded  by  me  to  the  British  Government  in 
November,  1844.  At  my  former  visit,  I  found  a  strong 
stream  rushing  in  cascade  over  the  rocks  on  the  eastern 
side  near  Collier's  Bluff,*  nearly  on  the  line  where  the 
bluffs  are  succeeded  by  low  land.  I  knew,  that  the  highest 
portion  of  the  island  lay  to  the  northward  of  this,  and 
pursuing  the  ordinary  argument  in  sandstone  formations, 
*  Named  in  compliment  to  Commodore  Sir  George  Collier. 


1846.]  DISCOVER  WATER.  153 

that  even  if  this  stream  should  fail  in  discharging  itself 
into  the  sea,  during  any  extraordinary  drought,  as  that  of 
the  present  season,  common  sense  pointed  out,  that  water 
would  flow  by  the  lines  of  inclined  strata  to  any  wells 
which  might  be  judiciously  sunk  at  levels  below  any  of 
the  higher  ranges. 

Our  present  examination  afforded  us  another  clue,  and 
this  was,  the  line  of  direction  of  the  strata,  which  proved 
to  be  about  north-east  and  south-west ;  the  general  slope 
of  the  land  being  to  the  southward.  We  therefore 
expected  to  find  streams  flowing  in  that  direction.  An 
examination  of  the  old  stream,  alluded  to  on  the  east, 
proved,  that  although  it  did  not  now  jet  in  cascade  over 
the  ledge,  that  not  far  within,  it  was  still  held  in  natural 
reservoirs,  and  although  somewhat  discoloured  by  the 
leaves,  still  sweet  and  well  tasted.  Pursuing  our  re- 
searches, we  noticed  many  small  fresh  drains,  and  a  few 
pools,  but  it  was  not  until  we  arrived  at  the  termination 
of  what,  in  contradistinction  to  the  Mangrove  region,  I 
shall  term  the  skirting  of  terra  Jirma,  that  we  began  to 
meet  with  decided  fresh  streams.  I  am  the  more  in- 
clined to  notice  this  matter,  because  I  fear  that  unwar- 
rantable assertions,  of  the  absence  of  fresh  water  fit  for 
consumption,  did,  in  some  measure,  damage  my  report 
on  Labuan,  as  to  its  capabilities  of  sustaining  a  colony, 
and  possibly  for  some  months,  I  may  say  a  year,  retard 
the  completion  of  this  important  Treaty. 

It  was  not  until  we  rounded  the  last  bend  of  the  land, 
and  opened  the  south-west  bay,  that  we  met  with  any 
source  which  promised  abundance,  without  recurring  to 
the  course,  which  must  ever  be  preferred,  the  method  by 
sinking  wells. 


154  WATERING  BAY.  [1846- 

Immediately  on  rounding  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  island, 
a  large  sandy  bay  is  formed  with  the  Southern  Point. 
No  less  than  three  powerful  streams  were  met,  one  of 
which  was  of  sufficient  force  to  cut  its  channel  through 
a  heavy  sand-bank,  three  feet  perpendicularly;  and, 
tracing  its  course  inland,  appeared,  by  the  profusion  of 
floating  timber,  to  be,  in  fact,  a  River. 

Our  object  being  thus  satisfied,  the  most  convenient 
spot  for  anchorage,  as  well  as  watering,  had  to  be  sought. 
The  greater  portion  of  this  bay  is  studded  with  rocks, 
which,  at  dead  low  water,  spring-tides  would  almost  deter 
a  vessel  from  venturing  near  them  :  but  the  most  eligible 
spot  will  be  found  off  the  northern  dry  ledge,  near  to  the 
termination  of  the  Casuarina  trees,  in  the  sandy  bight. 
Here  the  '  Samararig '  and  '  Royalist '  found  secure  berths 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  beach,  in  five  and  a 
half  fathoms,  the  boats  landing  at  a  smooth,  but  conve- 
niently steep,  sandy  beach,  within  three  hose  lengths 
of  the  reservoir.  This  watering-place  was,  in  itself,  a 
natural  curiosity ;  from  the  north,  behind  the  Casuarina 
trees,  and  parallel  to  the  shore,  an  extensive  and  deep 
strip  of  water  was  barred  from  the  sea,  and  much  above 
its  level,  by  a  barrier  of  sand,  about  thirty  yards  in 
width,  by  at  least  six  in  height ;  an  unsuccessful  attempt 
was  made,  by  cutting  a  deep  drain,  to  draw  off  this,  which 
was  salt,  in  the  hope  that  fresh  water  would  eventually 
flow.  Separated,  only,  by  a  mass  of  rock  about  twelve  feet 
wide,  another  strip  from  inland,  nearly  met  this  purely 
fresh.  From  this  latter  we  procured  during  the  day 
(8,  A.M.,  until  7.  30,  P.M.),  eleven  and  a  half  hours,  (all 
boats  up  and  in)  forty  tons,  besides  '  Royalist ',  without 


1846.] 


LIST  OP  RIVERS. 


155 


sensibly  diminishing  the  level.  I  think,  therefore,  that  I 
may  safely  say,  as  at  this  period  all  the  famed  fresh  rivers 
of  Borneo  were  salt,  from  drought,  that  Labuan  does  not 
deserve  this  slur.  If  any  reliance  can  be  placed  in  Malay 
experience,  I  was  informed,  most  positively,  by  a  very 
intelligent  old  man,  that  "  should  all  the  streams  of  which 
he  had  given  me  information,  fail,  I  might  find  sweet 
water  in  Labuan."  As  he  furnished  me  also  with  his 
catalogue  of  the  rivers  I  here  annex  them ;  tawar  signi- 
fying sweet,  and  masin  (a-sin  Bisaya),  salt. 


Tampassook,  tawar. 
Abai,  masin. 

Sulaman,       

Kawalan,        tawar, 
Mankabung,  masin. 
Kabatuan,      tawar. 
Putatan, 
Kinarut,         masin. 

Gawang,        

Pangalat,       

Papar,            tawar. 
Minam,         


Bangawan,     tawar. 

Kimanis,        

Membakiit,    

Kuala  lama, 

Kuala  panco, masin  ? 

Kaliass, 

Badas, 

Sari,  masin. 

Kangaran, 

Brune, 

Tutong, 

Meri  (or  red)  — 


(within  fresh). 


The  rocks  in  the  vicinity  of  our  anchorage  were 
covered  with  most  delicious  oysters,  of  large  dimensions, 
requiring  to  be  quartered  before  eating,  and  the  labours  of 
watering  over,  men  and  Officers  regaled  themselves  to 
their  full  enjoyment  on  them,  roast,  stewed,  and  an 
naturel. 

Later  reports  *  state  that  "  the  island  is  traversed  by 
numerous  streams,  of  which  some  are  of  considerable 
dimension,  though  only  two  appear  to  flow  at  all  seasons 

*  St.  John. 


156  LINES  OF  COAL.  [1846. 

of  the  year.  Water,  however,  is  found  everywhere,  by 
digging,  in  great  abundance,  and  of  the  most  excellent 
quality." 

As  to  the  new  geological  features  of  the  island,  noticed 
on  this  examination,  we  found  that  the  coal  lines,  or 
those  on  which  we  should  estimate  the  probability  of 
working,  appeared  to  cut  the  island  nearly  in  two  halves, 
and  that  the  western  lines  of  direction,  spitted  out  in  a 
sharp  ridge  and  islets,  similarly  to  the  northern  reefs, 
(which  are  there  under  water)  in  parallels  of  N.E.  and 
S.W.  The  dip  of  the  S.W.  islet  inclining  about  60° 
northerly. 

After  my  report  upon  the  coal  measures  of  Labuan,  in 
1844,  and  with  the  recorded  opinion  of  Sir  Henry  De  la 
Beche  to  the  Admiralty,  "  that  the  specimens  forwarded 
were  equal  in  quality  to  our  best  Newcastle,"  the  idea  of 
raising  coal  in  any  quantity  upon  this  island  was  ridiculed. 
Indeed,  the  very  question  of  acceptance  of  the  territory 
met  a  similar  fate  Fortunately,  however,  through  the  able 
advocacy  of  Mr.  Brooke,  and  I  suspect  in  no  small  degree 
aided  by  his  untiring  advocate  Mr.  Wise,  Government  were 
induced  to  turn  their  attention,  seriously,  to  the  offer  made 
by  the  Sultan;  and  in  December,  1846,  more  than  two 
years  from  the  offer  of  its  cession,  the  Treaty  was  com- 
pleted, and  the  British  Flag  hoisted,  under  the  customary 
solemnities,  by  Capt.  R.  Mundy,  of  H.M.S.  '  Iris '. 

What  has  been  the  result  of  later  examinations  ?  Just 
what  might  have  been  expected ;  by  following  up  the 
next  parallel  stratum  within  the  northern  "  crop  out " 
near  the  sea,  excellent  coal  was  obtained,  and  no  less 
than  forty  tons  procured  for  the  '  Phlegethon '  steamer, 


1846.]  FISH.  157 

worked  as  low,  I  believe,  as  17s.  per  ton.  Referring 
to  my  despatch  of  November,  1844,  I  find  these  words. 
"  As  this  coal  occurs  at  the  surface  on  the  northern  part 
of  Labuan ;  the  dip  at  five  miles  southerly  will,  in  all 
probability,  secure  larger  beds  at  fifty  to  sixty  feet  below 
the  surface."  As  to  the  other  productions  of  Labuan, 
I  believe  that  timber  will  be  all  that  can  be  expected, 
and  this,  doubtless,  will  be  required  for  the  erection  of 
the  necessary  buildings ;  the  remainder  will  probably  be 
consumed  by  fire  in  clearing  the  soil,  as,  until  that  desi- 
rable operation  is  complete,  the  land  properly  drained, 
and  a  free  circulation  of  air  ensured,  it  will  be  dangerous 
to  reside  on  shore.  The  entire  destruction  by  fire  of  all 
the  trees  but  those  reserved  for  shade  and  ornament, 
would  greatly  add  to  the  salubrity,  and,  as  the  surrounding 
shores  and  islands  are  plentifully  stocked  with  timber, 
their  loss  would  never  be  felt  on  Labuan. 

Fish  is  abundant  upon  all  the  coasts  of  Borneo,  and 
from  the  purity  of  the  sea  near  Labuan,  being  free  from 
the  muddy  admixture  of  the  river,  it  is  highly  probable 
that  they  may  prove  of  superior  quality ;  I  cannot,  how- 
ever, agree,  from  personal  observation  during  my  visits  in 
1844  and  1846,  in  the  story  of  between  two  and  three 
hundred  persons  pursuing  the  fisheries ;  I  think  that  we 
noticed,  in  all,  about  half  a  dozen  boats.  On  the  occasion 
of  my  last  visit,  one  canoe,  carrying  a  person  evidently  a 
spy  from  Borneo,  fearlessly  came  alongside  my  gig,  and, 
in  reply  to  my  interrogations,  assured  me,  "  that  no  vessel 
of  war  had  for  six  months  past  been  at  Brune,  or  in  this 
neighbourhood,"  an  assertion,  which  I  knew  to  be  untrue, 
as  the  '  Royalist '  had  met  H.M.S. '  Hazard '  and  learned 


158  REACII  SARAWAK.  [1846. 

from  her  Commander,  of  the  attempt  to  entrap  him  in 
March  last,  at  Moarra,  immediately  after  the  massacre  of 
the  Rajah  Muda  Hassim  and  his  brothers.  This  man 
was  not  ignorant  of  that  affair,  and  upon  being  questioned 
why  the  Sultan  had  acted  in  such  a  manner,  merely 
shrugged  his  shoulders  and  observed  "that  was  the 
Sultan's  affair;  poor  people  never  troubled  themselves 
about  such  matters."  Not  having  any  authentic  infor- 
mation relative  to  this  affair,  and  perfectly  satisfied  that 
no  good  could  result  from  my  visit  to  the  city,  I  deter- 
mined on  moving  forward  to  Sarawak,  where  I  should  be 
able  to  obtain  complete  information  from  Mr.  Brooke. 

On  the  30th,  having  reached  the  Moratabas  entrance 
of  the  river,  the  '  Samarang '  was  moored  off  Tanjong  Po, 
and  instructions  left  for  perfecting  the  exterior  lines  of 
soundings.  Quitting  the  ship,  with  the  barge  and  gig, 
I  moved  on  with  the  remaining  flood-tide,  reaching  the 
inner  entrance  shortly  after  dark.  Here  we  met  with 
several  prahus  at  anchor,  who  did  not  at  first  like  our 
visit,  but  upon  our  inquiring  for  Mr.  Brooke  became 
more  at  ease,  and  informed  us,  that  he  had  lately  quitted 
in  the  Kapal  Api  (steamer,  literally,  fire  ship)  for  the 
Siriki  river.  As  the  ebb  tide  had  made,  we  remained  at 
anchor  until  dawn,  when  we  pushed  on  with  the  flood, 
and  reached  Kuching  about  7  o'clock,  where  we  were 
welcomed  by  our  old  acquaintance  Mr.  Roepell,  who 
confirmed  the  report  of  Mr.  Brooke's  absence,  but  ex- 
pected him  to  return  in  seven  days.  I  here  found  a  note 
from  Mr.  Brooke,  most  kindly  desiring  me  to  take  pos- 
session of  his  house,  and  hoping  to  return  in  time  to 
meet  me. 


1846.]  DEATH  OF  MR.  WILLIAMSON.  159 

Here  we  obtained  full  particulars  of  the  lamentable 
massacre  at  Brune.  Nor  was  Sarawak  without  its  loss ; 
Mr.  Williamson,  the  very  talented  interpreter  of  Mr. 
Brooke,  and  a  great  favourite  with  every  one  who  knew 
him,  had  fallen  overboard  from  his  canoe  at  night,  at  the 
very  steps  of  Mr.  Brooke's  landing-place,  and  sunk  to 
rise  no  more  !  I  am  satisfied  that  not  even  to  his  own 
immediate  circle  at  Sarawak,  was  the  intelligence  of  his 
loss  more  painfully  felt  than  to  his  old  friends  of  the 
'Samarang/  to  whom  his  acts  of  kindness  during  our 
distress  were  unremitting.  Mr.  Brooke's  note  to  me 
fully  bore  out  the  great  loss  which  he  sustained ;  and  the 
public  service  on  northern  Borneo  has  much  to  deplore 
the  absence  of  his  abilities  :  as  the  medium  of  communi- 
cation between  the  natives  and  the  establishment  at 
Kuching,  his  death  will  be  much  felt. 

Not  having  seen  Mr.  Brooke  on  this  occasion  I  cannot 
do  better  than  add  here  the  following  extract  from  the 
Singapore  paper,  describing  the  massacre  at  Brune,  as 
as  well  Mr.  Brooke's  present  cruize. 

"  The  following  information  relative  to  the  barbarities 
of  the  Sultan,  we  believe  to  have  been  detailed  on  oath 
before  Mr.  Brooke  by  one  Japper,  a  native  of  Brune,  and 
servant  of  the  murdered  victim,  Pangeran  Budduruddin. 
Japper  stated  that  he  was  sent  by  his  master  on  board 
H.M.S.  'Hazard'  to  warn  Captain  Egerton  against  any 
treacherous  artifice  which  the  Sultan  might  employ  to 
entice  him  on  shore.  For  the  better  understanding  of 
the  nature  of  the  intelligence  entrusted  to  Japper,  Cap- 
tain Egerton  proceeded  with  him  to  Sarawak,  where  he 
communicated  to  Mr.  Brooke  the  murders  which  he 


160  DETAIL  OF  MASSACRE  AT  BRUNE.  [1846. 

witnessed  at  Brune.  From  the  testimony  of  Japper,  it 
appeared,  that  the  Rajah  Muda  Hassim  (by  the  Sultan 
raised  to  the  title  of  Sultan  Muda,  or  young  Sultan,)  who, 
together  with  his  brothers  and  followers,  was  living  in 
security  under  the  protection  of  the  Sultan,  was,  by  the 
orders  of  the  latter,  attacked  at  night,  and  slain,  as  also 
thirteen  of  his  family,  residing  at  different  places.  Pan- 
geran  Muda  Mahomed,  Pangeran  Abdul  Kader,  Pangeran 
Abdul  Raman,  and  Pangeran  Misahut,  the  four  brothers 
of  the  Sultan  Muda,  and  several  young  children  of  the  Sul- 
tan Muda,  alone  escaped  the  massacre.  At  the  time  of  the 
attack,  Japper  was  in  attendance  on  the  Pangeran  Bud- 
duruddin ;  the  latter,  notwithstanding,  that  he  was  some- 
what taken  by  surprise,  fought  gallantly.  Wounded  in 
both  rists,  severely  cut  down  the  forehead,  the  Pangeran 
Budduruddin  was  compelled  to  retire  within  the  house, 
accompanied  by  his  sister  and  a  female  attendant,  named 
Noor  Salam.  Both  women  were  wounded,  as  also  the 
servant  Japper.  As  there  was  110  chance  either  of  over- 
powering the  Sultan's  assassins  or  effecting  his  escape, 
the  Pangeran  Budduruddin  resolved  to  terminate  his 
sufferings  and  those  of  the  women :  he  desired  Japper  to 
open  a  cask  of  gunpowder  and  to  strew  it  on  the  floor ; 
this  done,  he  removed  his  ring  from  his  finger,  gave  it 
to  Japper,  and  requested  him  to  convey  it  to  Mr.  Brooke, 
at  the  same  time  urging  Japper  to  request  that  Mr. 
Brooke  would  bear  him  in  remembrance,  and  make  known 
his  case  to  Queen  Victoria.  Japper  bidding  his  master 
farewell,  got  through  the  flooring  to  the  river  (which  the 
house  being  built,  as  is  customary,  on  piles,  enabled  him 
to  do)  and  effected  his  escape.  Immediately  after  Japper's 


1846.]  MOTIVES.  161 

departure  the  Pangeran  Budduruddin  fired  the  train,  and 
he,  with  the  two  women,  was  blown  up. 

"  The  manner  in  which  the  Sultan  Muda  Hassim  and 
others  of  his  family  were  slain,  is  not  detailed ;  Japper 
probably  knew  of  their  slaughter  only  from  what  he 
heard :  his  information  being  confined  to  what  he  was  an 
eye-witness  of.  After  much  difficulty  the  servant  Japper 
got  clear  of  the  assassins ;  the  ring  entrusted  to  his  charge 
is  stated  to  have  been  taken  from  him  by  the  Sultan,  but 
where  he  fell  in  with  the  Sultan,  and  how  the  latter  pos- 
sessed himself  of  the  ring  is  left  to  conjecture.  Re- 
specting the  murder  of  the  Rajah  Muda  Hassim  (Sultan 
Muda)  Japper  remarks,  that  "  the  Sultan  and  those  with 
him  killed  the  Rajah  Muda  Hassim  and  his  family/'  from 
which  we  may  infer  that  the  Sultan  was  present  at,  and 
encouraged,  the  slaughter. 

"  The  motive  of  these  cruel  murders  is  well  known.  The 
Rajah  was  friendly  to  the  English,  which  displeased  the 
Sultan,  who  being  under  the  influence  of  the  Dutch 
authorities  at  Batavia,  was  inimical  to  the  establishment 
of  a  British  colony  in  Borneo.  In  support  of  the  ill 
feeling  entertained  by  the  Sultan  to  the  English,  Japper 
is  understood  to  have  stated  on  oath  before  Mr.  Brooke, 
that  the  Sultan  had  built  forts  at  Borneo  Proper,  and  set 
the  English  at  defiance ;  indeed,  to  such  a  length  had  the 
Sultan's  insolence  and  treachery  proceeded,  that  in  open 
Durbar  he  talked  of  cutting  out  any  English  vessel  that 
arrived;  in  support  of  this. bravado,  Japper  declared  (on 
oath)  that  two  vessels  were  sent  down  bearing  the  flag  of 
the  Rajah  Muda  Hassim  (the  known  friend  of  the  En- 
glish) to  entrap  H.M.S.  '  Hazard ',  and  murder  all  on 

VOL.  II.  M 


162  ARRIVAL  OF  THE  '  PHLEGETHON  '.  [1846. 

board.  As  if  the  last-mentioned  act  of  treachery  was  not 
enough,  the  Sultan  is  sworn  to  have  requested  one 
Nakodah  Kalab  to  proceed  to  Kaluka,  and,  in  the  Sultan's 
name,  desire  the  Pangeran  Makota,  by  treachery  or  for- 
cible means  to  destroy  Mr.  Brooke. 

"Under  the  circumstances  we  have  noted  above, 
Mr.  Brooke  on  the  1st  of  April  addressed  a  communica- 
tion to  the  Strait  authorities,  detailing  what  had  oc- 
curred, and  soliciting,  that,  as  at  no  time  since  he  had 
been  Her  Majesty's  agent  at  Borneo  had  there  been  so 
urgent  a  necessity  of  exhibiting  to  the  natives  of  Borneo 
the  power  and  influence  of  the  English,  the  Strait  autho- 
rities would  be  pleased  to  send  an  armed  steamer  to 
Sarawak.  The  request  was  cordially  entertained  by 
Colonel  Butterworth  C.B.,  Governor  of  the  Settlements. 
This  information  was  brought  by  H.M.S.  *  Hazard '  just 
as  the  steamer  was  about  to  leave  with  the  overland  mail 
to  Europe;  the  steamer  was  detained  some  hours  to 
communicate  to  the  Bengal  Government  the  position  of 
affairs  at  Borneo. 

"On  the  19th  of  April  the  H.C.  Steamer,  'Phlege- 
thon ',  which  under  Captain  Ross  and  her  present 
officers,  has  rendered  several  useful  services  to  the  state, 
was  despatched  from  Singapore,  and  arrived  at  Sarawak 
at  noon  on  the  23rd.  On  the  26th  the  '  Phlegethon ' 
dropped  down  the  river,  and  on  the  28th  started  with 
Mr.  Brooke  to  the  eastward.  On  the  29th  the  steamer 
entered  the  river  Redjang.  On  the  following  day  arrived 
at  Serikye,  where  a  party  from  the  steamer  landed,  and 
for  three  successive  days  conversed  with  the  Patinga  Ab- 
dool  Raman,  the  head  man  of  the  place.  The  nature  of 


1846.]  VISIT  SIRIKI  AND  BATTANY  BALIOU.  163 

the  conversation  did  not  transpire.  On  the  3rd  of  May 
the  '  Phlegethon '  again  started,  having  on  board  the 
Tuanku  and  a  large  party  of  natives,  who  were  after- 
wards landed  at  the  entrance  of  the  creek :  the  steamer 
passed  into  another  river,  up  which  she  steamed  till  dark 
and  then  anchored  for  the  night,  about  sixty  miles  from 
the  coast :  the  river  is  described  as  broad  and  deep,  with 
a  rapid  current.  No  Dyak  boats  were  met  in  proceed- 
ing up  the  river,  although  it  is  reported  that  numerous 
parties  were  in  the  habit  of  passing  down  the  river 
to  the  sea,  for  the  purpose  of  committing  piracies.  On 
the  4th,  the  '  Phlegethon '  passed  the  junction  of  two 
large  rivers  at  Marling,  entered  the  Battang  Baliou,  and 
at  4,  P.M.,  anchored  off  Egan,  where  a  party  from  the 
steamer  landed  and  had  an  interview  with  the  Tuanku 
Schriff  Sakarran. 

"  May  6th.  Steamed  out  of  the  Battang  Baliou,  and 
proceeded  twelve  miles  up  the  coast  to  the  eastward. 
Entered  the  Owah  river  and  anchored  off  Owah  at  noon; 
at  this  place  a  party  went  on  shore,  and  had  an  interview 
with  Pangeran  Matalee.  The  Owah  river  is  described 
as  small,  the  entrance  shallow,  with  about  one  fathom 
and  a  half  over  the  bar.  At  Owah  the  '  Phelegethon ' 
remained  till  the  9th,  and  steaming  out  the  same  day, 
conveyed  the  Pangeran  and  a  large  party  of  natives  to 
the  entrance  of  the  river.  May  1  Oth,  arrived  at  Sarawak, 
via  Moratabas,  and  remained  there  some  days.  On  the 
afternoon  of  the  18th  the  'Phlegethon'  left  Santobong, 
with  Mr.  Brooke  on  board,  steered  round  Tanjong  Sipang 
to  the  eastward,  and  early  on  the  morning  of  the  19th 
anchored  off  the  Batang  Lupar  river :  at  daylight  passed 

M  2 


164  VISITS  LINGA.  [1846. 

up  the  river  to  a  branch  proceeding  to  Linga ;  at  this 
place  the  chiefs,  with  six  large  war  boats  full  of  people, 
came  to  pay  their  respects  to  Mr.  Brooke ;  whilst  here 
those  on  board  the  steamer  saw  twenty-four  boats  pro- 
ceeding up  the  river  to  attack  the  Sakarran  Dyaks. 
These  latter  people  are  the  enemies  of  Mr.  Brooke,  and 
live  by  piracy :  they  had  not  long  since  attacked  Linga, 
where  they  killed  upwards  of  100  people,  and  carried  off 
150  slaves. 

"  May  20th,  weighed  anchor  early  in  the  morning, 
steamed  out  of  the  river,  and  crossed  the  bar  in  one 
fathom  and  a  half  at  low  water.  At  11,  A.M.,  entered 
the  Kalukka  river,  and  anchored  off  the  town.  At 
Kalukka  a  party  from  the  vessel  had  an  interview  with 
the  chief  man  of  the  place,  who  is  an  Arab ;  at  this 
place  met  Pangeran  Der  Makota  (a  known  enemy  of 
Mr.  Brooke)  who  was  on  a  visit  from  Sambas.  On  the 
morning  of  the  26th  the  '  Phlegethon '  left  Sarawak,  and 
arrived  at  Singapore  on  the  29th,  at  noon. 

"  The  object  of  despatching  the  steamer  has  been  fully 
answered ;  it  was  desired  only  to  produce  a  moral  effect  by 
exhibiting  to  the  natives  of  Borneo  that  the  British  Govern- 
ment was  as  resolute,  as  it  is  able,  to  maintain  supremacy 
wherever  its  flag  appeared;  in  this  respect  the  mission 
succeeded,  and  so  well,  that  we  are  at  a  loss  for  terms 
sufficiently  adequate  to  acknowledge  the  humane  conduct 
of  Mr.  Brooke,  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  manly  bearing 
of  the  Commander  of  the  steamer  and  his  Officers  on 
the  other.  Several  Pangerans  of  places  where  the 
'  Phlegethon '  visited  were  surprised  at  the  appearance 
of  an  armed  steamer ;  most  of  the  inhabitants  had  never 


1846.]  v  RETURN  TO  SINGAPORE.  165 

seen  anything  larger  than  a  native  prahu.  The  moral 
effect  of  the  appearance  of  a  steamer  will  serve  as  a  check 
to  the  piratical  Dyaks  for  some  time.  In  the  course  of 
a  few  months,  it  is  most  probable  that  the  Admiral,  with 
a  powerful  force,  will  proceed  to  the  seat  of  Government 
and  compel  the  Sultan  to  give  an  account  of  his  conduct." 
This  servant  of  Budduruddin,  above  alluded  to,  happened 
to  be  one  of  a  party  sent  from  Brune  under  the  well-known 
standard  of  the  Sultan  Muda  Hassirn,  in  order  to  decoy 
Captain  Egerton,  of  H.M.S.  '  Hazard ',  into  their  power. 
This  it  was  proposed  to  effect  by  inviting  Captain 
Egerton  to  land  on  the  Island  of  Moarra,  situated  at 
the  outer  entrance  of  the  Brune  river,  to  walk  or  amuse 
himself,  when  it  was  intended  to  capture,  or  murder  him: 
he  was  not  inclined  to  land,  and  thus  frustrated  their 
object.  Japper  escaping  to  the  '  Hazard '  informed 
Captain  Egerton  of  the  plot,  as  well  as  of  the  massacre  of 
his  master  and  connections.  As  the  interpreter  on  board 
the  '  Hazard '  did  not  appear  sufficiently  au  fait  at  his 
business,  Capt.  Egerton  thought  it  preferable  to  take  him 
to  Sarawak,  where  he  would  not  only  learn  the  truth  but 
also  obtain  the  advice  of  Mr.  Brooke  as  to  further  opera- 
tions. The  statement,  therefore,  that  Japper  had  been 
sent  by  his  master  to  warn  Capt.  Egerton  is  absurb,  as 
the  massacre  took  place  before  the  arrival  of  the  '  Hazard '. 
As  Budduruddin  was  particularly  attached  to  Mr.  Brooke, 
and  the  friendship,  I  believe,  was  mutual,  it  is  highly 
probable  that  he  was  sent  to  warn  any  English  vessel 
which  might  arrive,  and  through  her  means  seek  Mr. 
Brooke.  The  loss  of  Pangeran  Budduruddin  can  only 
be  duly  estimated  by  those  who  had  the  pleasure  of 


166  CHARACTER  OF  BUDURUDDIN.  [1846. 

knowing  his  worth.  Quick,  enterprising,  and  intelligent 
to  a  degree,  beyond  any  of  his  countrymen,  he  was  not 
only  the  favourite  of  the  English,  who  happened  to  visit 
Borneo,  but  he  was  a  staunch  supporter  of  our  interests, 
to  which,  indeed,  I  fear  he  has  fallen  a  martyr.  The  loss 
of  two  such  staunch  friends,  as  the  Sultan  Muda  Hassim 
and  his  half-brother,  to  the  general  interests  of  humanity, 
as  well  as  commerce,  is  much  to  be  deplored.  As  an 
inquiry  into  these  matters  will  shortly  take  place,  it  is 
to  be  hoped  that  something  more  authentic  than  the 
report  of  Japper  may  be  forthcoming  from  the  Officers 
employed  on  that  service.  At  the  moment  of  committing 
this  to  the  press  Mr.  Brooke  has  arrived  in  England,  so 
that,  before  he  returns,  we  may,  probably,  be  favoured 
with  some  authentic  details  relative  to  these  matters,  as 
well  as  his  visit  to  Siriki,  an  important  river,  immediately 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  his  own  territory  of  Sarawak. 

Having  waited  most  anxiously  for  Mr.  Brooke,  until 
the  shortness  of  our  provisions  rendered  further  delay 
hazardous,  we  gave  up  further  hopes  on  the  morning  of 
the  8th  of  May,  directing  our  head  for  Singapore.  On 
the  evening  of  the  9th,  we  fell  in  with  Mr.  Brooke's 
schooner,  'Julia'  off  Tanjong  Datu,  having  on  board 
Lieut.  Elliot,  of  the  Madras  Engineers,  the  energetic 
Superintendent  of  the  Magnetic  Observatory  at  Singa- 
pore, who  kindly  paid  me  a  visit  during  the  calm  which 
prevailed.  Lieut.  Elliot  was  on  his  passage  to  pay  Mr. 
Brooke  a  visit,  after  which  he  purposed  carrying  out,  at 
his  own  cost,  a  series  of  Magnetic  Observations  in  every 
accessible  part  of  Borneo.  On  the  10th  we  cleared  the 
Borneo  shores. 


1846.]  TRADING  INTERESTS  OF  BORNEO.  167 

I  cannot  take  leave  of  this  portion  of  the  world  in 
which  all  my  feelings  have  been  so  deeply  interested, 
without  a  few  words,  influenced  by  the  very  decided 
measures,  which  I  am  happy  to  find  our  Government 
intend  carrying  out. 

The  trading  interests  of  Borneo,  or  the  probabilities  of 
our  commerce  increasing  in  these  regions  to  the  amount 
contemplated  by  some  over-sanguine  advocates,  requires 
to  be  guarded  against.  From  the  year  1843  to  the  pre- 
sent time,  I  have  made  it  my  study,  as  it  was  my  duty, 
to  collect  and  weigh  every  minute  circumstance  which 
could  bear  upon  this  most  important  subject ;  nor  will  I 
yield  to  any  one  in  feeling  of  deep  interest  for  the  success 
of  our  new  position.  At  Singapore,  as  well  as  at  Hong- 
Kong,  Manila,  and  Sooloo,  some  of  my  readers  will 
understand  the  assertion  I  make,  "  that  I  not  only  used 
every  effort  to  open  trade  direct  with  Gunung  Taboor,  Tam- 
bisan,  and  Kabatuan ;  but  at  my  persuasion,  two  persons 
have  made  the  attempt ;"  others  met  me  with  the  observa- 
tion :  "  All  which  you  state  is  very  true,  and  the  prices  are 
favourable  in  the  highest  degree,  but  you  cannot  warrant 
half  a  cargo,  even  for  a  small  schooner"  At  Gunung  Taboor 
the  Sultan  bound  himself  to  supply  a  cargo  for  one  vessel 
filling  up  with  rattans,  Cassia  bark,  &c.,  but  more  he 
could  not  promise,  as  the  collection  of  one  year.  At 
Kabatuan,  I  was  informed,  that  beyond  about  thirty 
canoes  present,  the  same  quantity  of  Pepper  might 
be  added,  but  no  more.  At  Kimanis,  it  was  probable 
that  Pepper,  Wax,  Camphor,  and  Bird's  nests,  would 
afford  twenty  canoe  loads.  All  these  proceeds  would 
amount,  possibly,  to  ten  tons,  stripping  the  coast  for  the 


168  RESOURCES  OF  NORTHERN  BORNEO.  [1846. 

season.  Treating  of  Maludu  Bay,  and  the  sources  of 
trade  to  be  derived  from  that  region  I  have  observed 
p.  124,  "That  the  establishment  of  a  British  port  or 
colony  on  any  part  of  the  northern  shores  of  Borneo, 
will  not,  I  suspect,  induce  any  of  the  native  authorities  to 
send  there  for  sale."  This  remark  is  intended  to  apply 
to  cargoes,  or  quantities.  The  small  traders  will,  as 
remarked  to  me  by  Mr.  Brooke,  creep  alongshore,  and 
find  their  way  to  the  best  market.  But  until  the  colony 
is  firmly  settled,  and  piracy  annihilated  on  the  range  of 
coast  by  which  trade  must  pass,  this  state  of  affairs  will  be 
slow  of  arriving ;  and  when  it  does,  still,  until  the  habits 
of  the  inland  tribes  become  settled,  and  they  plant  for, 
and  send  to  your  market,  the  same  scantiness  of  tonnage 
must  prevail.  I  must  still  adhere  to.  the  only  feasible 
plan  of  inducing  trade  by  sending  small  craft  to  the  ports 
in  immediate  connection  with  the  Brune  territory,  that  is, 
between  Maluda  Bay  and  Labuan,  and  collect  at  the  in- 
termediate ports  of  Tampassook,  Ambong,  Sulaman, 
Kabatuan,  and  Kimanis,  what  the  Kadyan  or  Dusun 
will  bring  to  the  coast,  for  we  cannot  jump  to  the  con- 
clusion, that  the  cultivators  will  turn  navigators  to  get 
rid  of  their  produce;  otherwise,  my  original  evil,  the 
intervention  of  the  Malay  or  Bugis,  comes  in  to  destroy 
the  advantages  of  direct  commerce.* 

My  professional  brethren  will  probably  take  alarm  at 

"  In  connection  with  the  occupation  of  the  new  colony  of  Labuan, 
it  is  mentioned  that  the  good  effects  of  that  measure  are  already  de- 
veloping themselves.  The  communication  between  Singapore  and 
Brune  is  now  frequent,  through  the  medium  of  trading  vessels,  and  it 
is  expected  that  the  next  annual  returns  will  exhibit  a  considerable  in- 
crease in  commercial  operations  with  that  quarter.  '  Haw  Sago ',  it  is 


1846.]  SCALE  OF  BARTER.  169 

this  apparent  trading  disposition,  contrary  to  Act  of 
Parliament,  &c. ;  but  they  will  cease  to  feel  any  sur- 
prise when  they  learn  that  in  all  voyages  of  discovery, 
exploration,  &c.,  it  becomes  the  bounden  duty  of  the 
Commander  not  only  to  ascertain  the  produce  of  the 
countries  which  he  visits,  but  to  collect  samples,  &c.  j 
and  in  order  to  facilitate  these  measures,  as  well  as  to 
ensure  supplies  of  fresh  food  and  vegetables  for  his  crew, 
that  he  is  supplied  with  the  necessary  articles  of  traffic 
"  by  Authority  of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Ad- 
miralty ",  thus  taking  away  the  venom  fang  of  the  law. 

To  proceed  to  business ;  at  Ambong,  being  present  in 
the  port,  we  purchased  for  the  use  of  the  crew,  one  bul- 
lock for  forty  yards  of  long  cloth.  These  forty  yards 
cost  in  England  9s. ;  the  value  of  one  bullock,  181  Ibs., 
therefore,  is  12s.  The  largest,  sixty  yards,  230  Ibs.,  the 
smallest  forty  yards,  160  Ibs.,  mean  average  181  Ibs.  Bees' - 
wax,  1  cake=12  Ibs.,  ten  yards=2s.  6d.,  little  more  than 
Zd.  per  Ib.  Now  at  Kabatuan,  one  cake  of  Bees'-wax  of 
12  Ibs.,  was  valued  at  seven  yards,  equal  to  1*.  §\d.  At 
Kimanis,  25  Ibs.  of  Pepper  were  purchased  for  ten  yards, 
=2*.  Id.,  pr  \d.  per  Ib.  Would  any  of  these  articles  be 
delivered  at  Laluan,  at  a  less  profit  to  the  carriers  than 
500  or  800  per  cent.  ? 

The  following  extract  is  the  substance  of  a  letter  to 
the  Court  of  Directors  of  the  East  India  Company,  from 
Mr.  Jesse,  the  20th  of  July,  1775,  at  Borneo  Proper.* 

observed,  '  appears  to  be  in  great  abundance.     It  is  converted  into 
flour  and  pearl  for  the  European  market.'     Of  the  eleven  piratical 
prahus  lately  attacked  by  the  '  Nemesis '  it  seems  that  only  three  have 
escaped  back  to  that  place." — Times  (City  article),  Oct.  25th,  1847. 
*  Dalrymple's  collection. 


170  MR.  JESSIE'S  CORRESPONDENCE.          [1846. 

"  The  Chief  and  Council  of  Balambangan,  in  the  be- 
ginning of  the  last  year,  addressed  a  letter  to  the  State  of 
Borneo,  informing  them  of  their  arrival  at  Balambangan, 
and  wishes  of  entering  into  alliance  with  them.  In  con- 
sequence of  this  invitation  an  ambassador  arrived  from 
thence  in  June ;  and  I  had  the  honour  of  being  appointed 
to  return  with  him,  to  open  an  intercourse  there,  and  to 
enter  into  such  engagements  as  might  appear  most  to  the 
Company's  advantage. 

I  arrived  there  in  the  month  of  August,  and  found  them 
unanimous  in  their  inclination  to  cultivate  the  friendship 
and  alliance  of  the  Honourable  Company :  in  conse- 
quence thereof,  I  made  it  my  first  care  to  discover  the 
motives  which  principally  induced  them  thereto,  that  1 
might  be  the  better  enabled  so  to  frame  my  Treaty,  as  to 
keep  them  dependent  in  such  particulars  they  most 
essentially  stood  in  need  of;  which  I  then  found  to  be, 
and  have  since  been  confirmed  therein,  was  protection 
from  their  Piratical  neighbours,  the  Sooloos  and  Minda- 
naos,  and  others,  who  make  continual  depredations  on 
their  coast,  by  taking  advantage  of  their  natural  timidity. 
To  relieve  them,  therefore,  in  this  particular,  and  to  in- 
duce them  the  more  readily  to  consent  to  my  subsequent 
proposals,  I  stipulated  by  one  of  the  articles,  that  (if 
attacked)  the  Company  should  protect  them ;  and  having 
thus  gratified  them  in  their  principal  want,  in  return,  I 
demanded  for  the  Company,  agreeably  to  the  tenour  of 
my  instructions,  the  exclusive  trade  of  the  Pepper :  as  I 
well  knew  it  was  the  grand  object  they  wished  to  attain, 
and  I  therefore  made  it  my  study  to  be  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  every  particular  relative  thereto.  I  was 


1846.]  PEPPER  TRADE  OF  BRUNE.  171 

informed  the  quantity  that  year  was  4,000  Peculs,  culti- 
vated solely  by  a  colony  of  Chinese,  settled  here,  and  sold 
to  the  Junks  at  the  rate  of  17  j  Spanish  dollars  per 
pecul,  in  Ckwta-doth,  called  Congons,  which,  for  want  of 
any  other  specie,*  are  become  the  standard  for  regulating 
the  price  of  all  commercial  commodities  at  this  Port. 
Although  I  was  well  convinced  it  would  not  answer  the 
Company's  purpose  to  pay  so  high  a  price  for  the  Pepper, 
especially  where  the  quantity  was  so  small,  I  notwith- 
standing, in  the  Treaty,  made  a  point  of  securing  to  them 
the  exclusive  trade  of  that  article,  to  be  paid  for  in  mer- 
chandize, at  such  rates  as  might  indemnify  them  at  pre- 
sent, in  the  inconvenience  of  the  high  price,  to  the  end 
that  it  might  divert  the  Junk  trade, f  from  this  to  Balam- 
bcngan  (their  grand  inducement  for  coming  here  being 
thus  removed),  which,  together  with  my  having  bound 
the  state  to  oblige  all  their  dependants  to  make  planta- 
tions, whereby  the  quantity  would  not  only  be  greatly 
increased,  but  from  their  having  no  other  purchasers,  the 
Company  would  be  enabled  to  fix  such  prices  as  would 
give  ample  encouragement  to  the  Planters,  and  soon 
reimburse  the  expences,  which  were  necessitated  to  be 
borne  at  the  beginning  of  the  undertaking;  and  the 
more  so,  as,  in  consequence  of  their  industry,  becoming 
yearly  richer,  they  would  find  our  protection  but  the 
more  indispensibly  necessary. 

"  Things  being  fixed  on  this  basis,  the  Englishman  and 
Borneyan  becoming  thus   mutually  necessary  to   each 

*  They  use  bits  of  iron,  at  present,  weighing  about  four  ounces, 
t  Doubtful  policy. 


172  IDOLATROUS  MOUNTAIN  TRIBES.  [1846. 

other,  I  flattered  myself  the  event  might  have  produced 
a  solid  and  real  commercial  advantage,  as  well  to  the 
nation  as  to  the  Company,  and  the  more  so,  as  from  the 
great  probability  of  the  Hill  People  being  soon  induced 
also  to  plant,  who,  by  receiving  doth  as  the  price  of  their 
industry,  would  naturally  increase  the  consumption,  and 
render  our  manufactures  with  them  a  necessary  of  life ; 
these  being  by  far  the  most  numerous,  and  the  Abo- 
rigines of  the  island;  another  advantage  accruing  there- 
from, is,  that  having  once  connected  these  people  in 
interest  with  the  Company,  and  familiarized  them  to  our 
customs,  the  inhabitants  of  the  sea  coast  would  be  unable 
(were  they  inclined)  to  obstruct  or  molest  the  prosecution 
of  the  Company's  views.  These  were  the  motives  which 
first  induced  me  to  secure  to  the  Company,  in  the  treaty 
with  the  Borneyans,  the  exclusive  trade  in  Pepper, 
although  at  that  time  on  seemingly  disadvantageous 
terms ;  how  far  I  may  have  acted  with  propriety  remains 
with  the  Company  to  determine." 

The  same  writer  observes: — "With  respect  to  the 
Idaan,  or  Mooroots,  as  they  are  called  here,  I  cannot 
give  any  account  of  their  disposition ;  but  from  what  I 
have  heard  from  the  Borneyans,  they  are  a  set  of  aban- 
doned Idolaters ;  one  of  their  tenets  so  strangely  inhuman 
I  cannot  pass  unnoticed,  which  is,  that  their  future 
interest  depends  upon  the  number  of  their  fellow  crea- 
tures they  have  killed  in  any  engagement,  or  common 
disputes,  and  count  their  degrees  of  happiness,  to  depend 
on  the  number  of  Human  skulls  in  their  possession ;  from 
which,  and  the  wild  disorderly  life  they  lead,  unrestrained 


1846.]  INTRODUCTION  OF'CHINESE.  173 

by  any  bond  of  civil  society,  we  ought  not  to  be  surprised 
if  they  are  of  a  cruel  and  vindictive  disposition." 

With  respect  to  the  policy  of  discouraging  the  resort 
of  the  Chinese  to  Brune,  I  am  much  inclined  to  differ 
from  this  writer.  The  number  of  Chinese  supposed  to 
reside  at  one  period  in  the  city  of  Brune  exceeded  several 
thousands ;  at  that  period  trade  prospered,  there  was  an 
interchange  of  commodities,  and  the  useful  arts  were 
pursued.  Upon  their  departure  the  Malays  fell  back  into 
their  idle  sluggish  condition,  and  instead  of  advancing 
as  a  civilized  community,  retrograded  into  their  original 
character  of  Rover  or  Pirate. 

We  are  now  anxious  to  introduce  the  Chinese,  for  with- 
out their  aid  in  the  working  of  the  mines,  and  interior 
traffic,  commerce  will  progress  but  tardily;  British  consti- 
tutions are  not  calculated  to  undergo  the  severe  labour  of 
the  Chinese  Cooly  in  such  a  climate  as  Borneo.  Another 
prospect  is  dawning,  and  with  it  the  chance  of  seeing 
stationary  depots  established  amongst  the  mountain  tribes. 

The  following  introduction  to  extracts  from  the  Colo- 
nial Church  Chronicle  relative  to  the  "  Borneo  Mission  " 
so  fully  agrees  with  my  formerly  recorded  opinions  upon 
these  matters,  that  I  cannot  forbear  inserting  it. 

"  Though  we  have  never  concealed  our  antipathy  to  the 
system  commonly  pursued  by  missionaries  in  the  South  Seas 
and  on  the  coast  of  Africa, — a  system  which,  beginning 
by  overthrowing  all  old  beliefs,  and  rudely  teaching  new 
truths  utterly  incomprehensible  to  the  untutored  heathen, 
has  ended,  almost  without  exception,  by  lowering  instead 
of  elevating  his  moral  state — we  have  always  been  ready 
to  admit  that  a  real  Christian  mission,  conducted  in  a 


174  THE  BORNEO  MISSION.  [1846. 

proper  spirit,  is  at  once  one  of  the  noblest  occupations  to 
which  our  clergy  can  devote  themselves,  and  the  surest 
means  under  Providence  of  spreading  civilization  among 
the  barbarous  tribes.  It  is  because  we  are  convinced 
that  the  Mission  shortly  about  to  sail  for  the  shores  of 
Borneo,  and  which  has  awaited  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Brooke  to 
receive  the  benefit  of  his  advice,  is  as  far  removed  from 
the  ravings  of  the  illiterate  gospellers  to  which  we  first 
alluded,  as  it  nearly  approaches  in  many  points  to  that 
ideal  of  apostolic  teaching,  of  which  the  Christian  world 
after  the  downfall  of  the  Roman  Empire  affords  so  many 
bright  examples,  that  we  are  induced  to  lay  before  our 
readers  the  following  extracts  from  an  able  article  on  the 
Borneo  mission,  which  recently  appeared  in  the  '  Colonial 
Church  Chronicle  "'.—Times,  October  16th,  1847. 

These  extracts  can  be  found  in  the  publication  alluded 
to ;  I  shall,  therefore,  confine  my  observations  to  those 
points  to  which  my  attention  in  the  South  Seas  was  par- 
ticularly directed.  There  I  could  trace  four  varieties  of 
Missionaries :  one  well  deserving  the  thunder  of  the  first 
eight  lines  of  the  above  article.  But  the  one  to  which  1 
will  especially  allude  is  of  the  Williams  school,  alluded 
to  in  vol.  ii.  p.  17  of  the  'Voyage  of  the  Sulphur', 
Raratonga,  "  It  is  pleasing  to  witness  the  influence  Mr. 
Buzacott  has  acquired ;  not  the  servile  fear  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islanders,  but  an  honest,  warm-hearted  attachment. 
He  is  a  pattern  for  Missionaries.  They  prove  their 
superiority  by  their  ability  to  instruct  others,  and  they 
leave  behind  them  lasting  monuments  of  their  utility,  in 
the  increased  civilization  and  happiness  of  the  people." 

These  remarks  recur  to  me  on  perusing  the  observations 


1846.]  CLERGYMEN  APPOINTED.  175 

extracted  from  the  pamphlet  of  the  Rev.  C.  D.  Brereton. 
"  If  a  case  of  misery  ever  called  for  help,  it  is  here ;  and 
the  act  of  humanity  which  redeems  the  Dyak  race  from 
then-  unparalleled  wretchednes,  will  open  a  path  for  Reli- 
gion and  for  commerce,  which  may  in  future  repay  the 
charity  which  ought  to  seek  no  remuneration. 

"  Three  clergymen,  the  Rev.  F.  T.  M'c  Dougall,  W. 
B.  Wright  and  Mr.  Montgomery,  have  been  appointed ; 
it  is  anticipated  that  great  benefit,  in  regard  to  the  object 
of  the  mission,  will  be  derived  from  the  medical  know- 
ledge of  Mr.  Me'  Dougall,  who  is  a  member  of  the 
College  of  Surgeons,  and  was,  before  he  entered  into 
Holy  Orders,  Demonstrator  of  Anatomy  in  King's  College, 
London.  He  will  be  prepared  to  avail  himself  of  any 
opportunities  that  may  offer  of  conciliating  in  this  way 
the  good  will  of  the  natives,  and  conferring  upon  them 
those  temporal  benefits  which  may  lead  the  way  to  the 
communication  of  spiritual  knowledge." 

I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  being  introduced  to  Mr. 
M'c  Dougall,  and  cannot  but  cordially  congratulate  Mr. 
Brooke  on  carrying  out  with  him  such  a  specimen  of  a 
thoroughly  useful  man.  The  abilities  and  handy  craft  of 
Mr.  M'c  Dougall  will  force  themselves  readily  with  the 
natives ;  for  untutored  as  they  are,  there  is  a  peculiar 
neatness  and  adaptation  in  all  that  belongs  to  them,  even 
in  their  carriage,  which  evinces  a  little  more  intellect  than 
is  generally  assigned  to  them.  The  Dyak  is  a  dandy  sui 
generis,  and  upon  everything  they  use,  or  fabricate,  taste 
is  impressed.  But  I  would  still  adhere  to  Mr.  Brooke's 
advice :  "  Let  our  motto  be,  Create  no  jealously  ".  Ad- 
vance is  certain,  guided  by  prudence,  but  distrust  of 


176  MR.  BROOKE'S  MOTIVES.  [1846. 

motives  resulting  from  ignorance  on  their  part,  may  cause 
difficulties  not  easily  removed.  During  my  first  visit  to 
Mr.  Brooke,  at  Sarawak,  in  1843,  he  very  kindly  lent 
me  for  perusal  several  papers,  penned  in  1838,  connected 
with  his  original  intentions  in  taking  a  voyage  to  the 
Eastern  Archipelago,  and  as  they  bear,  in  a  most  remark- 
able manner  upon  our  present  relations  in  Borneo,  as 
well  as  the  mission  in  question,  I  now,  with  his  permis- 
sion, introduce  them. 

"  Whatever  difference  of  opinion  may  exist,  or  what- 
ever degree  of  credit  may  be  due  to  the  views  which  1 
have  recommended,  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  the  future 
advance  of  our  commercial  interests  in  the  Archipelago, 
and  a  previous  acquaintance  will  therefore  greatly  facili- 
tate the  result,  and  must,  in  all  probability,  tend  to  a 
more  just  appreciation  of  these  highly  interesting 
countries;  for  when  public  attention  be  once  aroused, 
and  a  stimulus  given  to  inquiry,  it  cannot  fail  in  fully 
developing  the  resources,  and  exhausting  the  mine  which 
has  hitherto  been  left  to  the  weak  and  casual  efforts  of 
individual  assertion.  It  has  been  remarked  by  Mr. 
Farquhar,  that  the  indifference  of  the  British  Govern- 
ment must  have  originated  solely  from  the  want  of  infor- 
mation, or  incorrectness  of  knowledge,  since  it  is  not  im- 
probable, that  the  riches  of  Sumatra  and  Borneo  are 
equal  to  those  of  Brazil  and  New  Spain.  The  lapse  of 
years  has  by  no  means  weakened  the  force  of  this  obser- 
vation, for  Borneo,  Celebes,  and,  indeed,  the  greater 
portion  of  these  islands  are  still  unknown,  and  the  Go- 
vernment is  no  less  indifferent  now  to  these  countries, 
equal  in  riches,  and  superior  in  commercial  advantages, 
to  the  New  World. 


1846.]  SLAVERY  IN  THE  EAST.  177 

The  apathy  of  two  centuries  still  reigns  supreme  with 
the  enlightened  people  of  England,  as  well  as  their  Go- 
vernment, and  whilst  they  willingly  make  expensive 
efforts  favourable  to  science,  commerce,  or  Christianity  in 
other  quarters,  the  locality  which  eminently  combines 
these  three  objects  is  alone  neglected  and  alone  uncared 
for.  It  has  unfortunately  been  the  fate  of  our  Indian 
possessions  to  have  laboured  under  the  prejudice  and 
contempt  of  a  large  portion  of  the  well-bred  community, 
for  whilst  the  folly  of  fashion  requires  an  acquaintance 
with  the  deserts  of  Africa,  and  a  most  ardent  thirst  for  a 
knowledge  of  the  usages  of  Timbuctoo,  it,  at  the  same 
time,  justifies  the  most  profound  ignorance  of  all  matters 
connected  with  the  Government  and  Geography  of  our 
vast  possessions  in  Hindostan. 

"  The  Indian  Archipelago  has  fully  shared  this  neglect, 
for  even  the  tender  philanthropy  of  the  present  day, 
which  originates  such  multifarious  schemes  for  the  ame- 
lioration of  doubtful  evils,  and  which  shudders  at  the 
prolongation  of  apprenticeship  in  the  west,  for  a  single 
year,  is  blind  to  the  existence  of  slavery  in  its  worst  and 
most  exaggerated  form,  in  the  east.  Not  a  single  pro- 
spectus is  spread  abroad,  not  a  single  voice  upraised  in 
Exeter  Hall  to  relieve  the  darkness  of  Paganism  and  the 
horrors  of  the  slave  trade  !  Whilst  the  trumpet  tongue 
of  many  an  orator  excites  thousands  to  the  rational  and 
charitable  object  of  converting  the  Jews,  and  reclaiming 
gypsies,  whilst  the  admirable  exertions  of  missionary 
enterprise  in  the  Austral  climes  of  the  Pacific,  have 
invested  them  with  worldly  power,  as  well  as  religious 
influence,  whilst  the  benevolent  plans  of  the  New 

VOL.  n.  N 


178  TAKE  LEAVE  OF  MR.  BROOKE.  [1846. 

Zealand  Association  contemplate  the  protection  of  the 
natives  by  the  acquisition  of  their  territory,  whilst  we  ad- 
mire this  torrent  of  devotional  and  philosophical  exertion, 
we  cannot  help  deploring  that  the  zeal  and  attention  of 
the  leaders  of  these  charitable  crusades  have  never  been 
directed  to  the  countries  under  consideration.  These 
unhappy  countries  have  failed  to  rouse  attention  or  excite 
commiseration,  and  as  they  sink  lower  and  lower  they 
afford  a  striking  proof  how  civilization  may  be  crushed, 
and  how  the  fairest  and  richest  lands  under  the  sun  may 
become  degraded  and  brutalized  by  a  continuous  course 
of  oppression  and  misrule.  It  is  under  these  circum- 
stances I  have  considered  that  individual  exertions  may 
be  usefully  applied  to  rouse  the  zeal  of  slumbering  phi- 
lanthropy, and  lead  the  way  to  an  increased  knowledge 
of  the  Indian  Archipelago." 

These  were  the  remarks  of  Mr.  Brooke  in  1838.  Since 
that  period  great  and  important  events,  as  regards  Borneo, 
have  occurred  to  change  these  sentiments ;  all,  and  even 
more  than  he  then  contemplated,  has  gradually  been 
brought  to  pass,  and  we  have  not  only  to  hail,  through 
his  agency,  and  extraordinary  tact  and  perseverance,  the 
British  colours,  and  a  British  colony  planted  in  Borneo, 
but  also  to  congratulate  him  on  the  thorough  success  of 
his  long  cherished  views  of  the  improvement  of  his  Dyak 
allies,  through  missionary  agency.  I  now  take  my  leave 
of  Borneo,  earnestly  wishing  Mr.  Brooke  and  his  terri- 
tories (to  which  I  trust  Borneo  Proper  may  eventually  be 
added,  with  the  full  recognition  of  this  estimable  indivi- 
dual as  Sultan)  all  the  success  which  his  most  sanguine 
desires  can  hope  for. 


1846.]  ARRIVE  AT  SINGAPORE.  179 

Passing  Tanjong  Api  and  the  St.  Pierre  Islands,  we 
were  again  making  fair  progress  towards  Singapore,  but 
on  the  14th,  had  only  reached  the  vicinity  of  Barren 
Island,  when  calms  again  delayed.  This  afforded  me  an 
opportunity  of  fixing  its  position,  and  of  procuring  quan- 
tities of  the  eggs  of  Tern,  and  other  marine  birds,  with 
which  it  abounded.  Its  position  was  determined  to  be 
in  Lat.  1°  32'  22"  N.,  Long.  106°  22'  18"  E. 

On  the  17th  of  May  our  provisions  had  run  so  short, 
bread  being  entirely  exhausted,  and  light  airs  still  pre- 
vailing, that  I  deemed  it  prudent  to  despatch  our  barges 
ahead  to  Singapore ;  they  quitted  us  on  the  morning  of 
the  18th,  about  9,  A.M.  On  the  20th,  aided  by  favour- 
able flaws  of  wind,  we  were  able  to  creep  into  the  Straits, 
and  about  10,  A.M.,  perceived  the  barges,  as  well  as  the 
pinnace,  of  H.M.S.  'Hazard'  approaching,  when  calm 
compelled  us  to  drop  our  kedge.  About  2,  P.M.,  the  ship 
anchored  in  the  roads  of  Singapore,  where  we  found 
H.M.S.  'Hazard'.  Orders  for  our  return  to  England 
awaited  our  arrival  with  instructions  to  examine  the 
Cargados  Garajos  on  our  homeward  voyage.  Later  in- 
structions from  the  Commander-in- Chief,  who  had  arrived 
at  Penang,  delayed  us  until  his  appearance. 

Singapore,  as  regards  its  local  advantages,  has  under- 
gone considerable  improvement  since  I  first  became  ac- 
quainted with  it,  under  the  government  of  Mr.  Bonham, 
in  1840.  The  lines  of  streets,  then  only  marked  out  by 
slight  poles  with  rags,  or  causeways,  or  embankments, 
inclosing  certain  portions  of  barely  cleared  marsh,  were 
now  finished,  solid  ground  filled  in  in  many  spots, 
and  blocks  of  houses  had  been  erected.  The  river-lines 

N  2 


180  CHANGE  IN  AFFAIRS.  [1846. 

had  been  completed  in  stone,  good  roads  formed,  and 
several  substantial  and  well-designed  bridges  spanned  the 
stream  at  various  points.  In  spite,  however,  of  these 
improvements,  due  to  the  energetic  mind  of  Mr.  Bonham, 
the  former  Governor,  and  who  was  deservedly  a  great 
favourite  with  all  classes,  the  place  itself  had  lost  much 
of  its  interest,  as  well  as  attractions.  The  present  excel- 
lent Governor,  Colonel  Butterworth,  was  equally  esteemed; 
but  the  changes  which  had  necessarily  occurred  in  the 
mercantile  prosperity  of  the  place,  between  the  periods 
alluded  to,  had  now  materially  diminished  the  society,  as 
well  as,  by  the  transfer  of  much  of  the  capital  to  Hong- 
Kong,  the  means  of  supporting  the  marked  hospitality 
which  we  experienced  at  the  former  period.  Singapore,  as 
we  now  found  it,  deprived  of  its  worthy  Governor,  absent  at 
Penang,  was  dull  indeed ;  even  the  bustle  consequent  upon 
the  crowded  anchorage,  where  European  and  Chinese  craft 
seemed  to  shut  out  the  town  from  the  passing  voyager, 
was  now  considerably  changed.  Very  few  Junks  (in 
comparison  to  the  date  alluded  to)  now  visit  Singapore. 
The  Chinese  find  it  more  convenient,  as  well  as  to  their 
advantage,  to  exchange  their  cargoes  at  the  nearer  mart 
of  Hong-Kong,  and  thus  avoid  the  dangers  of  the  China 
Sea.  Still,  dull  as  it  was,  commercially,  it  was  hailed  by 
our  crew  as  a  most  acceptable  change  after  our  solitary 
cruize  since  quitting  the  lively  scenes  of  Manila.  As 
regarded  excitement,  or  "Life",  in  the  lower  classes, 
the  same  din  prevailed ;  offers  of  all  kinds  were  eagerly 
pressed.  Dubashes  for  supplies ;  others  with  cards  for 
the  hotels ;  dealers  in  marine  stores,  from  a  pot  of  jelly 
to  a  pot  of  blacking,  anchor,  or  guns.  Chinese  tailors 


1846J  JUGGLERS.  181 

and  shoe-makers  using  every  artifice  to  attract,  and 
willing  to  suit  your  fancy,  even  to  following  up  minutely 
the  defects  or  repairs  which  they  may  discover  in  former 
garments,  which  they  invariably  ask  for  as  muster  (or 
pattern).  Upon  either  quarter  of  the  vessel,  may  be 
noticed  the  Bengalese  Bumboatmen,  each  twisting  him- 
self into  all  manner  of  Salaams,  and  coaxing  motions,  and 
into  the  most  humble  postures  in  order  to  ingratiate 
himself,  and  obtain  a  preference  from  the  First  Lieu- 
tenant, the  de  facto  ruling  power  in  port.  Lying  a 
little  further  out,  may  be  noticed  the  more  insinuating 
Indian  juggler,  equally  humble  in  forms  and  attitudes, 
but  not  less  eager  in  his  vocation,  asking  almost  by  the 
changes  of  his  countenance  (colour  excepted)  permission  to 
delight  the  crew  by  sleight  of  hand  exhibitions,  tricks  with 
live  snakes  (Cobra  de  Capella),  or,  as  expressed  by  one  of 
the  crew,  "obtaining  soundings  in  his  throat,"  by  an  obtuse 
iron  spit,  which  he  is  pleased  to  denominate  a  sword.  The 
duties  of  refit  over,  liberty  is  granted,  by  watches,  or  por- 
tions of  the  crew,  and  now  little  does  the  prosperity  of  the 
place  trouble  the  brain  of  the  mischief-loving  tar.  Being 
duly  togged  out  for  the  shore,  in  his  best  white  trousers, 
and  neatly  worked  shirt,  set  off  by  a  flowing  Barcelona, 
and  natty  straw  hat,  with  a  length  of  black  streaming  rib- 
bon, or  pendant,  which  designates  him  a  bond  fide  man-of- 
war's  man,  he  steps  upon  the  gangway,  eyeing  the  boat- 
men pressing  around  for  fares.  Jack's  mind  is  soon 
made  up,  Jbut  he  likes  to  tantalize  them.  Like  the  rail- 
way traveller,  little  does  he  dream  of  security,  it  must  be 
express  with  him  also.  The  lightest  and  fastest  are  the 
tambangs,  which  are  very  elegant  little  canoes,  gene- 


182  LANDING  OF  THE  CREW.  [1846. 

rally  impelled  by  two,  or  four,  lank,  but  clean-built,  and 
powerful  Malays.  These  urge  their  claims  for  preference, 
exclaiming,  "Two  man  boat,  Sar?"  " Tour  man  boat, 
Sar  ?  "  or,  "  Pull  like  debbel,  Sar !  "  This  last  is  sure  to  fix 
the  taste,  and  one  or  two  of  our  heroes  may  be  seen  with 
the  leg  stretched  out,  with  all  imaginable  importance, 
bounding  over  the  glassy  wave,  until  he  is  landed  in  the 
creek,  for  Jack  does  not  admire  shooting  his  craft  on  the 
beach,  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  the  men-of-war's 
boats.  Very  shortly  after  landing,  it  is  evident  that  some 
ship's  crew  is  on  liberty ;  horses  are  seen  in  rapid  motion, 
some  without  riders,  riders  without  hats,  but  all  bearing 
a  decided  disposition  for  fun,  except  the  nags,  which 
rather  seem  to  eye  between  fear  and  astonishment  the 
larkish  bipeds,  who  rig  and  unrig  them  according  to  their 
notions,  and  from  whom  they  would  probably  bolt  if 
further  from  the  town.  Others,  of  the  more  sober  cast, 
will  be  found  grouped  together  in  one  horse  Palanquins, 
but  which,  upon  close  examination,  will  be  found  plenti- 
fully stored  with  what  Jack  terms  his  needful  ballast, 
that  bane  of  English  seamen,  spirits. 

It  is  strange,  that  in  the  present  advanced  state  of 
general  improvement  amongst  our  seamen,  this  old 
relic  of  the  war  pranks  still  maintains  its  force.  We  do 
not  notice  it  amongst  the  French,  Dutch,  Spanish,  or 
Americans,  although  in  this  latter  service  many  of  their 
seamen  are  English.  Nor  does  any  influence  of  Captain 
or  Officers  seem  to  change  the  disposition.  In  many 
cases  which  I  have  noticed,  there  will  be  found  a  shore 
companion,  picked  up  at  one  of  the  houses  where  seamen 
resort,  whose  business,  doubtless,  it  is,  to  favour  this  pro- 


1846.]  DIVISION  OF  THE  TOWN.  183 

pensity,  possibly  to  propose  it,  for  his  own  enjoyment  in 
the  first  instance,  and  the  interest  of  the  house-keeper, 
in  the  second.  A  seaman  once  in  the  power  of  one 
of  these  wretches,  is  seldom  permitted  to  recover  his 
senses  until  he  is  thoroughly  fleeced ;  when,  probably, 
his  term  of  leave  far  expired,"  he  becomes  an  absentee, 
and  is  then,  from  fear  of  punishment,  seduced  to  desert ; 
even  if  returned  to  the  ship  by  the  police,  his  tale  is  not 
listened  to,  and  he  becomes  a  marked  man.  This  was  not 
the  case  in  the  '  Samarang ',  but  it  has  grieved  me  sorely 
to  have  occasion  to  root  out  some  of  my  men,  whose 
conduct,  generally,  on  board,  deserved  my  approbation, 
from  some  of  these  dens,  and  to  be  compelled  to  charge 
against  their  pay  the  sums  due  for  their  apprehension.* 

The  town  of  Singapore  may  be  considered  as  separated 
into  three  distinct  divisions.  The  western,  Chinese; 
central,  English ;  and  eastern,  Malay  (or  Kling,  Chinese, 
and  Malay).  The  western,  is  separated  by  the  stream, 
and  although  it  contains  the  counting-houses  and  stores 
of  the  English  merchants,  still  their  private  habitations 
are  mostly  in  the  central  division.  The  Chinese  princi- 
pally occupy,  and  reside  in,  the  western  division,  and 
here  may  be  procured  any  article  desired,  either  from 
Europe,  India,  or  China.  Any  article  of  which  a  pattern 
can  be  produced,  will  be  imitated  by  the  Chinese. 
Nothing  is  considered  by  them  beyond  their  capacity,  they 
will  make  the  effort,  and  in  general  succeed  in  a  mar- 
vellous manner.  Care,  however,  must  be  taken,  to  point 
out  any  defects,  or  they  will  most  assuredly  be  copied. 

*  Apprehension  must  be  paid  for,  and  the  pay  of  the  seamen 
stopped,  II.  straggling,  and  31.  desertion. 


184  PIRATE  ARMS.  [1846. 

The  central  portion  of  the  town  is  entirely  set  apart  for 
public  offices,  church,  official  and  private  residences,  and 
hotels,  reserving  ample  space  between  the  sea  and  the 
houses  for  parade,  and  carriage  drives,  which,  in  1840, 
was  generally  well  attended,  between  the  hours  of  five  and 
seven.     On  the  east,  are  the  shops  of  the  Kliugs  and 
Malays.     This  part  of  Singapore  has  been  very  much 
improved  of  late,  and  several  excellent  bridges  now  ren- 
der the  villages,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream,  more 
accessible,  having  rescued  them,  in  a  considerable  degree, 
from  the  filthy  condition,  which  formerly  prevailed  there. 
The  eye  is  naturally  attracted  to  the  general  fabrication 
of  arms  in  this  region,  and  to  those  conversant  in  the  exa- 
mination of  the  Pirate  boats  of  these  seas,  the  question  na- 
turally suggests  itself :  Are  these  swords,  parangs,  knives, 
muskets,  bell-mouthed  blunderbusses,  &c.,  intended  for 
Pirates?     There  cannot  be  the  slightest  hesitation  in 
the  reply :  They  are ;  and  the  Pirate,  "  emissary  prahu," 
her  Nakoda  and  crew,  are  gazing  on  you,  dressed  in 
gaudy  attire,  and  only  await  their  chance  of  evading-  the 
gun  boats,  to  rejoin  their  associates,  with  fresh  supplies 
of  arms   and   ammunition.     The  question  then  arises : 
How  many  gun,  or  guard,  boats  watch  this  illicit  trade  ? 
I   wish  I   could    safely  say  one;    I  may  say  one  occa- 
sionally.    A  very  simple  ruse  will  call  for  her  presence 
westerly,  or  easterly,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  these  sup- 
plies pass  unheeded.     So  long  as  we  continue  to  furnish 
the  means,  so  long  may  we  expect  Piracy  to  continue. 
Cut  off  these  supplies,  these  sinews,  and  it  will  receive 
its  heaviest  blow. 

The  utter  want  of  defence  against  the  smallest  cruizer, 


1846.]  HORSBURGH  LIGHTHOUSE.  185 

which  an  enemy  might  send  to  levy  contributions  on 
Singapore,  or  to  capture  the  merchantmen  laden  with  most 
valuable  cargoes,  has,  at  length,  excited  attention,  and 
plans  and  estimates  have,  I  believe,  been  forwarded  to 
the  proper  department,  at  the  India  house,  there  to 
remain  and  be  debated  upon ;  during  which  delay,  this 
place  may  be  wrested  from  us  by  the  first  state  which 
may  happen  to  make  war.  It  is  a  matter  worthy  of  the 
serious  interference  of  our  Government.  Is  it  a  procrasti- 
nation in  order  to  avoid  the  present  expence,  which  will 
fall  eventually,  when  the  colony  does,  upon  the  British 
Government ;  and  is  the  valuable  property  now  stored 
there,  to  be  thus  risked  ?  These  are  important  questions, 
which,  I  trust,  may  speedily  receive  satisfactory  attention. 
The  question  where  the  lighthouse  (to  be  termed  the 
Horsburgh  Testimonial)  should  be  placed,  was  mooted 
so  far  back  as  July,  1844,  by  a  letter  from  the  Governor 
requesting  my  opinion.  I  was  subsequently  informed 
that  my  suggestion  of  placing  it  upon  the  Romania 
Islands,  had  been  approved  by  the  proper  authorities,  and 
the  necessary  instructions  to  furnish  estimates,  had  been 
issued.  By  reference  to  a  small  pamphlet,  by  Mr.  Alex. 
Gordon,  Civil  Engineer,  relative  to  lighthouses  constructed 
of  iron,  I  find  it  there  stated,  "  that  the  estimated  ex- 
pense, by  the  Superintending  Engineer  at  Singapore,  for 
the  masonry  alone,  amounted  to  15,000/.,  whereas,  one 
of  iron  could  be  delivered,  and  erected  at  Singapore,  at 
the  cost  of  3,000/. ;  yet  by  a  late  notice  in  one  of  the 
Singapore  papers,  the  probable  erection  of  a  lighthouse  on 
Pedra  Branca  is  alluded  to." 

The  attention  of  Government  has  been  "  from  time  to 
time  ",  commencing,  I  believe,  as  far  back  as  the  year 


186  NEW  HARBOUR.  [1846. 

1829,  turned  towards  the  occupation  of  Pulo  Brani*  or 
Gage  Island,  as  a  naval  or  coal  depot,  and  as  my  opinion 
was,  on  this  occasion,  invited,  I  shall  here  insert  it. 

With  regard  to  New  Harbour,  and  the  proposed  site 
for  a  coal  depot  on  Pulo  Brani  (or  Gage  Island)  I  would 
most  strenuously  advise,  under  any  circumstances,  peace 
or  war,  adopting  that  position  for  coaling  both  the  naval 
as  well  as  packet  service.  I  look  beyond  the  mere  posi- 
tion and  facilities  for  coaling.  I  view  it  as  a  stride,  not 
only  to  the  opening,  but  also  to  the  free  navigation,  of 
that  channel,  and,  ultimately,  to  \heprobable  formation  of 
a  new  town  and  port  for  Singapore.  In  the  event  of  dis- 
tress, this  position  affords  refuge;  secure  facilities  for 
grounding,  or  repairing  defects,  in  many  cases,  without 
lightening,  either  to  naval  or  merchant  shipping. 

In  order  to  secure  this,  it  will  be  necessary  to  form  a 
large  area  of  level  ground,  for  the  purpose  of  landing 
stores,  housing  crews,  &c.  Should  any  serious  accident 
occur  to  any  of  our  larger  ships,  in  no  other  position 
could  she  be  accommodated,  and  what  is  also  very  im- 
portant, no  other  site  could  be  selected  so  well  adapted 
to  ensure  the  preservation  of  discipline,  if  compelled  to 
land  the  crew. 

Upon  a  cursory  examination  of  the  chart  of  this  chan- 
nel (constructed  by  Mr.  Thompson,  in  1842)  I  observe, 
"  that  a  safe  and  short  channel  would  be  available  by 
night  or  day,  provided  a  light  is  established  on  the  hill 
above  'the  Malay  village'.  That  leading  mark,  seen 
clear  of  the  point  of  Blakan  Mati,  would  bring  a  steamer, 
from  the  fairway  fork  (to  either  channel)  into  New  Har- 
bour, by  a  direct  course  of  twelve  miles." 
*  Literally  Loadstone  Island. 


1846.]  LEAVE  SINGAPORE.  187 

The  mails  could  be  landed  at  "  the  Malay  village  ",  and 
would  reach  the  post-office  in  less  time  than  a  gig  from 
the  sea  anchorage.  The  distance,  by  the  channel  now  in 
use  would  be  twenty  miles  !  and  without  guide  of  any 
description. 

Coming  from  the  eastward,  the  proposed  light  would 
lead  a  vessel,  under  very  mediocre  pilotage,  into  New 
Harbour,  a  torch  at  the  buoy  (by  previous  signal  from 
the  steamer)  leading  her  to  moorings.  This  same  light, 
screened  by  Tanjong  Batu,  would,  independent  of  that 
suggested  on  Romania  Island,  lead  vessels  moving  east- 
terly,  or  westerly,  clear  of  the  Johore  bank,  and  ensure 
their  reaching  the  roads  safely  at  night,  instead  of  an- 
choring, and  losing  breeze  until  daylight. 

On  the  14th  the  '  Agincourt ',  with  the  Admiral,  an- 
chored, and  on  the  18th,  the  affairs  of  Borneo  not 
requiring  our  detention,  we  took  leave  of  Singapore, 
Lieut.  Ogle,  of  the  '  Royalist '  joining  the  '  Samarang ', 
and  that  vessel  being  returned  for  the  service  of  the 
station.  Our  course  down  the  China  Sea  was  free  from 
any  remarkable  incident,  until  the  27th,  when  being 
much  baffled  by  variable  winds  and  currents  we  stood 
over  under  the  Island  of  Billiton,  in  the  hope  of  avoiding 
some  portion  of  the  current.  On  the  morning  of  the 
28th,  being  close  under  Billiton,  we  found  the  current 
still  driving  us  fast  to  leeward,  and  having  passed  close  to 
an  island  not  placed  in  the  charts,  anchored  near  it  to 
avoid  change  of  tide,  and  obtain  Observations  for  seeming 
its  position.  These  were  completed  before  the  evening, 
and  on  embarking,  as  I  still  found  the  current  strong, 
orders  were  given  to  weigh  about  midnight,  our  greatest 


188  DANGEROUS  SITUATION.  [1846. 

advantage  being  gained  by  night,  when  the  breeze  is 
usually  stronger,  and  favours,  by  blowing  off  shore.  Im- 
mediately after  weighing,  and  directing  her  to  be  steered 
N.E.,  that  being  the  opposite  course  to  that  by  which 
she  entered,  she  struck,  and  remained  fixed.  All  efforts 
to  move  her  that  night  were  ineffectual,  but  as  I  well  knew 
that  force  must  yield  to  stratagem,  I  let  her  He  quietly 
in  the  bed  she  had  settled  in,  until  daylight,  when  we 
found  her  completely  hampered  in  every  direction  by 
rocks,  rising  in  many  spots  nearly  to  the  water's  edge, 
any  exertion  of  force  would  have  injured  her.  How  she 
could  have  reached  this  position,  unseen  during  the  day, 
and  in  so  short  a  period,  was  incomprehensible.  Yet 
there  she  was,  and  our  attention  had  now  to  be  directed 
to  discover  where  she  entered,  and  how  she  was  to  be 
extricated.  My  thoughts  instantly  reverted  to  the  wreck 
of  H.M.S.  'Alceste5  but  a  few  miles  from  this  spot. 
But  we  were  more  fortunate,  not  only  had  we  a  better 
bed,  but  a  very  convenient  little  island  within  musket 
shot,  and  no  chance  of  losing  any  article  of  provision 
or  ammunition.  The  very  transparency  of  the  water, 
and  the  perfect  clearness  with  which  every  object  was 
visible,  was,  in  itself,  delusive,  furnishing  no  guide  to 
the  depth,  which  was  only  to  be  discovered  by  probing 
with  a  pole.  By  4  o'clock  that  evening,  the  necessary 
arrangements  were  made.  The  guns  were  put  into  the 
remaining  barge  (one  barge  and  two  gigs,  with  other 
stores,  being  left  behind  at  Singapore  for  the  squadron) 
and  the  spare  chain  cables  paid  overboard.  It  was  origi- 
nally intended  to  land  the  guns  upon  the  steep  part  of 
the  reef  projecting  from  the  island,  and  to  recover  them 


1846.]  ESCAPE  INTO  DEEP  WATER.  189 

when  afloat.  Fortunately,  this  was  found  to  be  attended 
with  difficulty,  and  deferred  until  we  tried  what  could 
be  done  by  our  first  heave.  This  she  obeyed,  and  before 
six  was  riding  safely  in  six  fathoms,  and  guns  re-embarked, 
the  depths  between  our  bows  and  anchors  varying  from 
seven  to  eleven  fathoms.  Our  misfortunes  were  not 
ended,  a  breeze  came  on,  the  anchor  came  home,  the 
hawsers  stretched,  and  she  again  grounded  abaft  the 
main  mast,  and  in  spite  of  all  our  efforts  hung,  striking 
heavily  and  in  a  manner,  most  distressing  to  all  on 
board.  About  midnight  she  ceased  to  strike,  having 
settled  on  the  reef.  Dawn  found  us  again  at  work ;  the 
guns  were  slung  to  the  breeching  hawser,  at  distances 
admitting  of  heaving  each  up  separately,  and  having 
ascertained  that  there  was  deep  water  on  the  outer  side 
of  the  reef,  on  our  starboard  bilge,  the  guns  were  safely 
deposited,  in  order  for  recovery,  on  this  reef.  Other 
measures  being  then  adopted  for  heaving  off,  she  was 
again  hove  out  in  deep  water,  at  2,  P.M.,  the  anchors 
dropped  afresh,  and  the  ship  being  veered  alongside  the 
reef,  with  steadying  hawsers  to  keep  her  clear,  the  guns 
were  re-embarked,  and  the  ship  in  a  condition  to  move 
before  sunset.  In  order  to  avoid  farther  possibility  of 
misfortune,  warps  were  laid  out  at  long  ranges,  and  the 
ship  cautiously  moved  beyond  her  cable  strain,  before 
lifting  an  anchor  from  its  hold,  and  one  kept  barely  atrip, 
during  the  process  of  warping.  Having  gained  a  fair 
distance,  and  the  sounding  boats  assuring  us  of  an  escape, 
sail  was  rapidly  made,  and  we  soon  took  leave  of  this 
unpleasant  region,  deeming  ourselves  most  fortunate  in 
making  our  escape.  After  such  toils,  all  hands  were  much 


190  PIGEON  ISLAND.  [1846. 

fatigued,  and  considering  ourselves  perfectly  beyond  fur- 
ther danger,  were  asleep,  save  the  watch  and  the  ship, 
moving  gaily  to  the  N.E.,  in  twenty  fathoms,  at  the  rate 
of  seven  knots.  About  half  an  hour  after  midnight,  a 
crash,  which  awakened  even  those  most  fatigued,  gave 
warning  that  we  were  again  in  disaster.  All  hands  were 
on  deck  in  an  instant,  but  in  the  existing  darkness  no 
one  knew  where  the  danger  lay.  The  sails  were  napping, 
but  the  ship  was  still  afloat ;  throwing  all  back,  she  flew 
astern  nearly  as  fast  as  she  had  gone  ahead,  and  allowing 
her  to  continue  at  this  play,  until  the  wind  filled  the  head 
sails,  the  yards  were  braced  forward,  and  her  head 
directed  to  the  N.W.,  when  having  recovered  soundings 
of  twenty  fathoms  she  was  anchored  for  the  night.  At 
daylight  she  was  found  to  be  N.  20  E.,  seven  miles  from 
our  former  danger. 

The  island  near  which  we  struck,  received  the  name 
of  Pigeon  Island,  its  northern  extremity  is  situated  in  2° 
37'  20"  S.,  Long.  108°  18'  E.  The  ship  did  not  sustain 
any  damage,  that  we  could  discover,  nor  did  she  lose  any 
stores  in  the  course  of  these  disasters.  During  the  in- 
terval of  the  two  groundings,  to  the  period  of  being  at 
secure  anchorage,  twenty-two  hours  elapsed.  All  the 
spars  were  turned  overboard,  and  rafted;  seven  guns 
twice  turned  out,  and  recovered,  and  ship  otherwise  put 
into  confusion.  At  the  thirtieth  hour,  the  ship  was  in  a 
condition  to  move,  and  ready  for  any  service.  I  never 
saw  a  ship's  company  behave  better,  nor  did  they  appear 
to  feel  the  exertion  beyond  that  of  an  ordinary  "  hard 
day's  work."  These  incidents  serve  to  instruct  the  junior 
officers,  and  put  them  upon  their  resources,  but  we  had 


1846.]  CARIMATA  CHANNEL.  191 

enough  of  these  matters,  and  began  to  look  forward  with 
more  anxiety  to  restoring  her  to  her  old  moorings  in  Ports- 
mouth Harbour.  The  entire  region  about  the  Carimata 
Channel  requires  a  searching  investigation  ;  on  both  sides 
we  had  reason  to  doubt  the  accuracy  of  the  existing  charts, 
passing  over  shoals,  and  noticing  sand  banks  not  exhi- 
bited on  the  charts. 

Having  worked  through  this  channel,  we  found  our- 
selves, on  the  morning  of  the  8th  of  July,  near  Pulo 
Baby,  the  wind  fair,  but  weather  very  thick,  and  noticing 
a  ship  at  anchor  waiting  for  finer  weather,  we  followed 
her  example.  Here  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  land, 
weighed  the  following  morning,  and  keeping  the  Java 
coast  aboard,  ran  for  the  Strait.  About  4,  P.M.,  noticing 
strong  ripples  off  one  of  the  points,  the  anchor  was  let  go, 
in  seven  fathoms,  on  a  rocky  ledge  not  laid  down.  The 
impetus  of  the  ship,  added  to  a  current  of  3f  knots, 
tried  the  strength  of  anchor  *  and  cable.  During  our 
detention  here,  we  examined  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Button  Rock,  for  a  shoal  off  the  western  side.  We 
found  it  to  have  as  little  as  2f  fathoms,  but  the  rapidity 
of  the  current  probably  prevented  the  lead  from  showing 
less ;  nevertheless,  it  was  pretty  well  probed  by  oars  at 
twelve  feet,  without  finding  rock.  Weighing  from  this 
position,  we  dropped  down  to  Anjer,  where  we  anchored 
that  evening.  On  paying  my  respects  to  the  Governor, 
he  tendered  every  possible  civility,  and  as  I  was  far  from 
well,  he  wished  me  to  take  up  my  quarters  on  shore. 
The  shortness  of  our  stay  rendering  this  scarcely  worth 
the  trouble,  he  most  kindly  directed  milk,  and  other 

*  One  of  Porter's  30  cwt.,  it  was  bent  by  this  extraordinary  strain, 
but  not  injured. 


192  ANJER.  [1846. 

comforts,  to  be  sent  daily.     A  short  ramble  into  the 
country  immediately  within  the  town,  enabled  me   to 
observe  the  gardens  and  farms  of  the  inhabitants,  which 
differ  little  from  those  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Singapore, 
the  cultivation  in  general  being  conducted  by  a  race  par- 
taking, apparently,   of  the  Malay  and  Chinese.      The 
garden  produce  of  the  immediate  neighbourhood  is  chiefly 
intended  for  the  supply  of  passing  vessels,  with  which 
they  generally  drive  a  very  lucrative  trade.     Their  sup- 
plies consist  chiefly  of  ducks,  fowls,  geese,  and  tropical 
vegetables.     These  boats  will  frequently  quit  Anjer,  and 
seek  a  vessel  observed  in  the  offing,  holding  on  by  her 
until  she  either  anchors  in  the  roadstead,  or  passes  by.    A 
very  fair  landing-place  has  been  constructed  by  running 
out  parallel  walls  into  nine  feet  water,  but  still  frequent 
rollers  cut  off  all  communication,  and  at  the  most  quiet 
moments,  care  must  be  observed  in  evading  some  of  the 
small  curling  seas  which  top  at  the  very  moment  you 
fancy  yourself  safe  within  the  walls,  dashing  the  boat 
against  the  inner  wall,  where  you  may  be  left  grounded 
on  a  ledge  of  rock,  until  another  friendly  wave  removes 
you  beyond. 

The  Governor,  or  Resident,  having  officially  requested 
an  opinion  as  to  the  most  eligible  site  for  a  Lighthouse, 
the  following  reply  was  sent. 

H.M.S.  '  Samarang ',  Anjer,  July,  1846. 
Sir, 

In  reply  to  your  letter  relative  to  the  position  for  a  Light- 
house at  Anjer,  I  regret  that  my  slight  knowledge  of  the  Straits  of 
Sunda  should  render  me  hardly  competent  to  deal  as  freely  with  the 
subject  as  its  importance  demands. 

My  opinion,  however,  rests  upon  two  decided  positions,  viz.,  the 
Cap  Island,  and  the  Fourth  Point.  I  do  not  think  the  light  would  be 


1846.]  KEELING  ISLANDS.  193 

convenient  if  placed  within  these  objects — such  as  in  the  bay,  where 
the  bamboo  erection  now  is. 

I  prefer  Cap  Island :  First ;  because  it  would  be  a  safe  object  to 
steer  for,  coming  round  Pulo  Merak,  and  avoid  Brewer's  Shoal: 
Secondly ;  that  coming  from  the  southward,  it  would  lead  clear  of  the 
Fourth  Point  danger.  Vessels  passing  to  eastward  of  Thwart-the-way 
at  night,  would  feel  confident  of  being  safe  from  the  Stroom  Rock, 
when  that  light  opened. 

Should  the  light  be  placed  on  the  Fourth  Point,  it  would  also  lead 
clear  of  the  Stroom  Eock.  But  vessels  passing  the  light  would  have 
to  estimate  their  distance  for  clearing  its  reefs.  Whereas  the  Cap  may 
be  passed  on  either  side  without  danger. 

I  have  examined  the  Cap  Eock,  and  find,  that  by  clearing  off  twenty 
feet  of  its  surface,  material  would  be  found  adapted  to  form  a  good 
masonry  platform,  on  which  any  structure  for  a  Lighthouse  would 
find  a  sufficiently  stable  foundation. 

I  am,  &c.,  Sec., 
The  Resident,  Anjer.  EDWARD  BELCHEE. 


Having  completed  water  and  supplies,  we  took  our 
departure  from  Anjer  on  the  evening  of  the  16th  of  July, 
shaping  our  course  for  the  Cocos,  or  Keeling  Islands, 
where  we  anchored  on  the  afternoon  of  the  23rd.  Our 
sole  object  here  was  to  obtain  Magnetic  and  Astronomical 
Observations,  the  latter  for  connecting  it  with  the  Car- 
gados  Garajos.  Capt.  Ross,  the  Resident,  was  absent  at 
Batavia,  we  were,  however,  visited  by  some  of  his  esta- 
blishment, and  after  the  duties  of  the  day  were  over, 
paid  a  visit  to  the  settlement. 

The  Keeling  Islands,  properly  so  named,  appear  to 
have  been  discovered  in  1008,  by  Capt.  William  Keeling, 
employed  in  the  service  of  the  East  India  Company, 
amongst  the  Molucca,  or  Spice  Islands.  It  was  on  his 

VOL.  II.  O 


194  DIRECTION  ISLAND.  [1846. 

return  from  this  service  that  these  islands  were  discovered 
by  him.     In   1823,  Alexander  Hare,  an   Englishman, 
whose  pursuits  bear  a  very  doubtful  character,  took  pos- 
session of  the  southern  Keeling  Island,  bringing  with 
him  an  establishment  of  Malays,  including  a  seraglio.   In 
1826  Mr.  J.  C.  Ross,  formerly  master  of  a  merchant  ship, 
settled  on  one  of  the  eastern  group,  and  finding  Hare's 
Malays  in  the  condition  of  slaves,  countenanced  their 
desertion  of  his  interests ;  their  complaint  against  Hare 
being  that  they  were  deprived  of  their  women,  whom 
Hare  secluded  on  a  separate  island,  to  which  they  were 
denied  access.     Hare  then  resigned  to  Ross,  and  quitted 
the  islands.     Since  that  period  affairs  appear  to   have 
gone  on  smoothly,  the  Malays  catching  fish,  turtle,  and 
rearing  pigs  and  poultry  for  the  consumption  of  those 
vessels  which  may  touch  at  these  islands.     I  certainly 
expected  to  find  the  residence  of  Capt.  Ross,  after  a  lapse 
of  twenty  years,  in  a  decent  condition.     It  presented, 
however,  little  more  than  such  a  house  as  would  rapidly 
be  raised  from  the  timber  saved  from  a  wrecked  vessel, 
and  gloomy  beyond  conception,  being  completely  over- 
shadowed by  cocoa-nut  trees,  and,  as  a  natural  result, 
swarming  with  mosquitoes.     The  Malay  village  was  infi- 
nitely more  inviting.     Here  we  noticed  a  very  rude  mill, 
in  which  they  were  grinding  the  cocoa-nuts  for  oil,  and 
in  every  direction  groups  of  turtle  lately  captured.    Some 
of  these  were  purchased,  but  the  price,  considering  the 
profusion,  was  rather  high.     As  the  Malays  did  not  ven- 
ture off  to  the  ship  to  sell  their  commodities,  I  suspect 
that  the  general  produce  passes  through  the  hands  of 
Ross's  family.     The  western  tongue  of  Direction  Island 


1846.]  SAILING  QUALITIES.  195 

is  situated  in  Lat.  10°  5'  31"  S.,  Long.  96°  54'  0"  E., 
Var.  1°23'W.,  Dip. -- 38°  55'. 

On  the  evening  of  the  24th  we  took  our  departure  for 
Mauritius,  or  rather,  to  search  for  the  Brandon  Rocks, 
reported  to  have  been  seen  about  two  degrees  to  the 
eastward  of  the  Cargados  Garajos,  and  in  the  parallel  of 
its  centre.  With  a  fine  brisk  trade  we  rapidly  decreased 
our  distance,  at  an  average  of  198  miles  per  diem,  230 
being  our  longest  run.  As  the  '  Samarang '  has  always 
been  classed  as  one  of  the  slowest  ships,  and  her  previous 
Captain  allowed  that  she  was  known  to  go  eleven  knots 
in  a  Ty-foong,  when  she  lost  her  topmasts,  it  will  be  ap- 
parent, that  with  all  her  mishaps,  she  improved  in  her  old 
age.  By  a  standing  regulation  of  the  ship,  the  officers  of  the 
watches  inserted  the  greatest  velocity  during  their  watch, 
stating  the  canvas  under  which  the  ship  was  at  the  time. 
If  this  regulation  were  adopted  in  all  ships,  we  should 
have  a  series  of  facts  to  determine  a  vessel's  sailing 
qualities,  instead  of  trusting  to  the  opinions  and  recol- 
lections of  those  who  have  to  draw  them  up  "  when  the 
document  is  required."  By  the  record  before  me,  I  per- 
ceive that  the  c  Samarang '  was  under  single  reefed  top- 
sails, royals,  port  lower,  topmast,  and  topgallant  studding- 
sails,  velocity  eleven ;  under  this  canvas  the  studding-sails 
were  taken  in,  and  the  ship  rounded  to,  to  sound.  My 
nautical  readers  will  therefore  understand,  that  she  had 
not  too  much  canvas  to  show  her  cheek  to  the  breeze. 
On  the  day  following,  is  recorded,  "  Ship  under  double- 
reefed  top-sails,  and  topgallant-sails,  close  hauled,  10.  G 
(carrying  sail  to  clear  reefs  to  leeward).  I  observe  that 
courses  have  been  omitted ;  they  were  set.  Now  if  this 

o  2 


196  ST.  BRANDON'S  SHOALS.  [1846. 

be  one  of  the  defective  ships,  what  would  the  new  class 
be  doing  ?  The  late  Admiral  Hayes,  one  of  the  best 
seamen,  and  probably  the  best  builder  that  we  had,  ob- 
served to  me  on  taking  the  command  of  the  '  Etna ',  in 
1830,  "  My  dear  sir,  never  mind  her  mould ;  you  can  get 
the  best  out  of  a  washing-tub,  and  no  more ;  1  will  tell 
you  what  that  ship  can  do;  10  off  the  wind,  8.  6  close 
hauled."  He  was  correct ;  nor  could  we  effect  more  in 
the  '  Sulphur '  with  similar  lines  and  tonnage.  A  great 
deal  may  be  said,  and  written,  about  the  qualities  of  diffe- 
rent ships,  but  I  perfectly  coincide  with  the  opinion  of 
Admiral  Hayes,  that  where  vessels  differ  but  slightly  in 
their  forms  they  may  easily  be  made  sea-worthy,  and 
their  best  sailing  elicited,  either  by  the  placing,  or  raking, 
of  the  masts,  ballast,  or  general  stowage.  So  much  did 
he  reckon  upon  this  assertion,  that  he  offered  to  take  the 
losing  ship  where  their  capabilities  at  all  approached 
anything  like  equality,  and  make  her  hold  her  own,  or 
conquer  her  opponent. 

On  the  5th  of  August,  under  strong  breezes,  and  with 
an  unpleasant  sea,  we  entered  upon  the  limits  assigned 
to  St.  Brandon's  Shoals,  varying,  by  different  authorities, 
between  120  and  150  miles  easterly  from  the  main  body 
of  the  Cargados  Garajos.  Officers  aloft,  and  the  look-out 
men  at  the  mast-heads  were  unable  to  trace  any  appear- 
ance of  reefs,  or  discoloured  water,  nor  were  we  able  to 
obtain  soundings  with  150  fathoms,  in  the  space  between 
us  and  the  Cargados. 

Our  visit  to  this  region,  in  order  to  examine  this  group 
was  directed  in  consequence  of  the  wreck  of  the  ship 
'  Letitia ',  which  had  run  upon  Frigate  Island,  owing  to 


1846.]  THE  CARGADOS  GARAJOS.  197 

its  being  erroneously  placed  on  Horsburgh's  chart  (about 
thirty  miles  too  far  easterly)  although  his  directory  gave  a 
longitude  nearly  approaching  to  the  truth.  The  '  Tennas- 
serim, '  steamer,  belonging  to  the  East  India  Company,  had 
been  directed  to  visit  the  Cargados  Garajos  in  search  of 
the  crew,  which  she  found  were  taken  to  the  Mauritius. 
The  communication  of  these  facts,  through  the  Government 
of  Ceylon,  where  the  *  Tennasserim '  had  reported  herself, 
caused  this  enquiry  to  be  made  at  the  instance  of  the 
Home  Government. 

The  Cargados  Garajos  consist  of  a  coral  semilunar 
bed,  extending  in  the  direction  of  its  western  horns, 
about  N.N.E.  twenty  miles,  and  perpendicular  from  this 
chord,  curving  easterly  about  nine  miles.  Off  this  patch 
lie  five  detached  islets,  named  by  the  latest  surveyors, 
under  Capt.  W.  Owen,  Albatross  Island,  North  Island, 
Siren  Island,  Pearl  Island,  and  Frigate  Island.  The 
whole  of  these  are  included  upon  a  general  bank  of  coral 
sand,  which  has  from  thirty  to  thirty-three  fathoms  as  its 
outer  limit ;  the  eastern  soundings  being  almost  on  the 
face  of  the  reef,  very  steep  to,  and  decreasing  suddenly 
from  thirty  fathoms  to  five :  so  that  even  in  the  finest 
weather,  with  a  smooth  sea,  that  side  of  the  island  should 
be  cautiously  approached,  or,  more  correctly,  entirely 
avoided. 

Upon  the  main  coral  patch  are  situated  the  three  islets 
Etablissement,  L'Avocare  and  Coco,  which  latter  is  upon 
the  extreme  south.  It  is  possible  that  these  patches  were 
formerly  connected  by  sand  banks,  or  fine  coral  debris, 
but  the  sea  appears  to  have  cut  channels  between  them, 
at  the  present  day,  and  even  to  have  separated  the  great 


198  EXAMINATION  OF  DANGERS.  [1846. 

patch  into  two,  admitting  of  a  passage  carrying  three  and 
a  half  fathoms  at  the  shoalest  point. 

This  group  is  supposed  to  be  a  continuation,  by  deep 
water  soundings,  with  the  Saya  de  Malha  (or  Coat  of  Mail) 
bank,  also  very  dangerous,  and  which,  by  the  frequent 
reports  of  recent  navigators,  appears  to  merit  a  closer 
examination,  and  to  be  more  correctly  inserted  upon  the 
charts.  The  name  of  this  latter  danger  is  satisfactorily 
traced  to  be  of  Spanish  derivation,  but  of  Cargados 
Garajos  we  have  no  clue.  The  term  Rocks  of  St.  Brandon 
has  been  applied  by  the  French,  and  this  has  probably 
given  rise  to  the  reports  of  the  Brandon  Rocks  having 
been  lately  seen,  as  in  reply  to  questions  as  to  the  existence 
of  the  St.  Brandon  rocks  at  Mauritius,  the  reply  would 
certainly  be  in  the  affirmative,  understanding  the  question 
to  apply  to  the  Cargados  Garajos. 

But  to  proceed  with  our  examination.  The  prevailing 
strong  breezes,  or  rather  gales,  which  prevailed,  rendered 
any  attempts  at  working  to  windward,  in  order  to  search 
for  any  banks  which  might  extend  easterly,  towards  the 
reported,  or  suspected,  rocks  of  St.  Brandon,  if  not  im- 
possible, at  least  impolitic.  The  very  question  of  the 
accurate  meridian  distance  between  the  Keelings,  this 
group  and  Mauritius,  would  materially  depend  upon  the 
rates  of  our  Chronometers,  and  those  could  not  be  relied 
on  if  the  ship  attempted  working  through  heavy  seas 
under  close-reefed  top-sails.  Even  under  the  lee  of  the 
islands,  in  comparatively  smooth  water,  this  was  un- 
pleasant. 

At  noon  on  the  6th  we  rounded  the  extreme  of  the  coral 
belt  extending  off  the  southern  islet,  called  Coco  Island, 


1846.]  L'AVOCARE.  199 

which  derives  its  name  from  having  been  formerly  covered 
with  these  trees,  but  of  which  only  two  in  a  perishing 
state  remain,  almost  in  derision  of  the  appellation.  On 
the  eastern  edge  of  the  breakers  still  remains  the  hull  of 
a  vessel  entire,  with  her  bow-sprit  standing,  and  anchors 
on  the  reef,  showing  that  though  the  waves  of  this  region 
are  too  powerful  to  admit  of  extricating  a  vessel  which 
may  strike  on  that  side,  still  they  do  not  rise  sufficiently 
high  to  injure  her  when  once  set  in  upon  the  reef.  We 
subsequently  learned  that  the  vessel  had  been  wrecked  at 
this  spot  more  than  fifteen  years  since. 

Immediately  after  we  hauled  up  under  the  lee  of  the 
islets  and  sand-banks,  our  attention  was  directed  to  secure 
terra  firma,  or  some  sheltered  spot  for  our  observations. 
We  soon  noticed  a  schooner  anchored,  well  to  the  east- 
ward, and,  by  reference  to  our  charts,  within  the  portion 
of  sand,  dry  at  low  water,  at  least  four  miles !  As  we 
met  with  no  difficulty  beyond  coral  knolls,  easily  avoided 
by  a  sharp  look  out  from  aloft,  we  continued  plying  to 
windward,  until  4  o'clock,  when  the  '  Samarang '  was 
anchored  four  miles  within  the  limit  of  this  ci  (levant  sand- 
bank, in  three-and-a-half  fathoms,  close  to  the  schooner, 
which  proved  to  be  a  fishing  vessel  from  Mauritius.  There 
is  no  sand-bank,  therefore,  and  its  insertion  in  the  charts 
is  highly  dangerous.  Such  an  error  *  in  the  delineation  of 
these  dangers,  sufficiently  intricate  in  themselves,  is  inju- 
dicious, as  a  vessel,  finding  herself  within  the  reefs,  might, 
after  slight  damage  upon  some  of  the  knolls  by  night, 
escape,  and  to  prevent  further  injury,  or  loss,  endeavour 

*  Possibly  intended  for  sand  occasionally  covered  by  water. 


200  VERRONGE.  [1846. 

to  beach  upon  the  supposed  sandy  flats,  which,  although 
apparent  on  the  southern  portions  of  the  island,  are  no- 
where to  be  hit,  being  invariably  barred,  at  some  distance, 
by  girdles  of  coral,  generally  very  "  steep  to." 

The  island  off  which  we  anchored,  was  called  Avocare, 
and  is  at  present  the  principal  fishing  station ;  the  resident 
fishermen  consisting  of  fourteen  coloured  people  of  Mau- 
ritius, and  a  head  man,  a  half-caste  of  Seychelles ;  the 
whole  establishment,  including  the  schooner,  belonging  to 
Mr.  Chelin  of  Seychelles,  now  of  Mauritius,  who  for- 
merly conducted  the  business  in  person.  They  were 
hutted  in  the  most  miserable  style  upon  the  island,  and 
started  daily  in  the  morning  in  two  whale  boats,  with 
hooks  and  lines,  returning  at  about  4  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, with  about  an  average  take  of  forty  to  fifty  fish  per 
man,  weighing,  when  cleaned,  about  2  cwt. 

Another  small  islet,  called  Verronge,  is  situated  about 
five  miles  southerly,  where  they  have  a  hut  for  temporary 
refuge,  and  Etablissement,  the  northern  Cocoa-nut  Island, 
which  formerly  possessed  a  respectable  residence,  com- 
pletes their  haunts  upon  this  group.  When  the1  schooner 
has  taken  on  board  the  fish  which  is  cured,  she  starts  for 
Mauritius,  leaving  the  fourteen  and  Captain  of  them  be- 
hind, to  complete  fresh  stock  by  the  period  of  her  return. 
Our  crew  very  soon  tried  their  luck  at  fishing,  and  during 
our  stay  they  feasted  as  long  as  they  could  obtain  facility 
for  cooking  in  the  galley,  which  was  incessantly  crowded 
by  more  cooks  than  our  establishment  warranted.* 

*  Fortunately  the  wreck  of  the  'Letitia'  furnished  them  with 
adequate  fuel,  or  this  indulgence  might,  from  necessity,  have  been 
cramped. 


1846.]  ETABLISSEMENT.  201 

We  were  fortunate  in  having  selected  this  spot,  as 
strong  breezes  and  unpleasant  weather  immediately  fol- 
lowed ;  taking  advantage  of  a  favourable  lull  we  ran  to 
leeward,  to  Frigate  Island,  where  the  wreck  of  the 
'  Letitia '  still  remained.  We  succeeded  in  effecting  a 
landing,  and  in  erecting  tents,  to  secure  this  as  a  principal 
position,  but  so  powerful  was  the  breeze,  and  so  much 
did  the  surf  aid  it  in  causing  the  island  to  vibrate,  that 
at  this  period  I  was  unable  to  obtain  any  satisfactory  ob- 
servations. We  here  noticed  the  remains  of  the  huts  of 
the  crew,  and  the  grave  of  the  Captain,  who  was  drowned 
in  the  attempt  to  recover  money  or  goods  from  the  vessel. 
The  whole  island  is  perforated  by  rats  and  marine  birds, 
particularly  a  large  species  of  sooty  Procettaria,  which 
burrows  under  the  light  sand,  loosely  covered  by  a  net- 
work of  a  species  of  Samphire.  Tern  of  four  kinds  were 
very  numerous,  one  small  and  of  a  beautiful  silvery  hue, 
and  some  thousands  of  their  eggs  collected  by  the  party 
left  in  charge  of  the  tents,  were  distributed  to  the  crew, 
and  were  nearly  equal  in  flavour  to  those  of  .the  Plover. 

We  then  visited  Etablissement,  where  we  found  fair 
landing,  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  satisfactory  observa- 
tions ;  subsequently,  I  made  an  attempt  on  the  lee  side  of 
North  Island,  which  stands  clear  off  the  main  group,  and 
is  exposed  to  the  full  eastern  sea.  Here  we  very  narrowly 
escaped  the  loss  of  gig,  as  well  as  instruments,  but  by 
the  spirited  conduct  of  her  crew,  she  was  extricated,  at  the 
very  moment  when  I  feared  she  was  beyond  the  chance 
of  rescue. 

Albatross  Island,  the  northernmost  of  the  group,  was 
then  approached,  under  its  lee,  but  no  possibility  offered 


202  coco  PLANTS.  [1846. 

of  landing  without  greater  danger,  we  therefore  bore 
away  to  make  another  attempt  on  Frigate  Island,  and  to 
withdraw  our  party,  a  service  not  easily  effected. 

Ultimately,  we  obtained  excellent  observations  on  Coco 
Island,  and  having  collected  a  number  of  young  Coco 
plants  at  the  Keelings,  for  the  purpose  of  transferring  a 
better  plant  here,  we  left  at  Frigate,*  and  this  latter 
station,  two  plantations,  the  fruit  of  which  will,  I  trust, 
if  not  destroyed  by  the  fishermen,  prove  of  value  to  any 
poor  creature  who  may  meet  with  misfortune  at  these 
spots.  Formerly  these  fruit  trees  abounded  sufficiently  to 
support  the  inhabitants,  and  furnish  oil,  but  gales,  added 
to  the  desire  of  gain,  and  the  uncontrolled  appetites  of 
the  blacks,  have  destroyed  the  trees  for  the  sake  of  their 
cabbage,  or  head  shoots.  These  trees  are  not  so  readily 
reared  as  imagined ;  it  is  always  attended  with  risk  and 
great  care.  It  is  so  throughout  the  Pacific,  and  all  persons 
who  form  plantations,  free  from  exposure  to  strong  sea 
winds,  are  well  aware  of  this  difficulty.  So  it  proved  with 
these  islets ;  the  instant  they  began  to  thin,  to  lose  their 
mutual  support,  and  the  breeze  to  play  strongly  through 
them,  so  soon  did  they  fail,  and  those  which  now  remain, 
inclined  at  a  large  angle  from  the  prevailing  breeze,  seem 
almost  to  quail  under  it. 

These  are  among  the  facts  against  the  formation  of 
islands  in  the  present  day.  My  experience  has  taught 
me  that  all  coral  islands  are  decreasing,  and  the  sea  cut- 
ting channels  through  them.  May  not  this  be  assumed 

*  As  fresh  water  was  found  at  Frigate  Island  they  will  probably 
thrive,  as  I  planted  them  in  the  hollow,  protected  for  some  years  from 
the  breeze. 


1846.]  coco  ISLAND.  203 

at  this  group  ?  By  the  survey,  by  the  late  Capt.  Mudge, 
under  Capt.  Owen,  in  1825,  unnoticed  by  Horsburgh, 
in  1841,  the  sand-banks  alluded  to  may  have  been  above 
water,  we  have  many  instances  of  greater  alterations; 
and  viewing  the  decided  changes  recorded,  and  visible, 
here,  I  have  strong  suspicions  that  this  talented  officer 
was  correct ;  but  that  the  sea  has  cut  its  way  through, 
even  to  severing  the  main  island  in  two,  and  leaving  a 
channel  through  which  the  '  Samarang '  could  pass. 

Every  inquiry  was  made  of  the  Captain  of  the  resident 
fishermen  as  to  the  existence  of  St.  Brandon's  Ilocks. 
He  derisively  exclaimed,  "  Oh  yes ;  these  are  the  rocks 
of  St.  Brandon ;  every  white  stone  you  notice  above  water 
is  termed  a  St.  Brandon."  This  Captain,  or  principal,  (a 
French  half-caste  of  Seychelles)  assured  me,  that  he  has 
navigated  these  seas  for  the  last  twenty-six  years,  and  in 
the  fine  season  has  been  much  employed  seeking  the 
hawk's-bill  turtle  (in  the  schooner)  to  windward,  beyond 
the  limits  I  mentioned,  and  that  no  shoal  was  ever  seen 
or  believed  by  them  to  exist  in  that  direction.  I  have 
little  doubt,  therefore,  that  the  report  of  their  existence 
originated  in  the  customary  habit  of  these  fishermen,  on 
their  visits  to  Mauritius,  of  alluding  to  the  Cargados, 
under  the  appellation,  which  they  invariably  use,  of 
St.  Brandon. 

Water  fit  to  drink  we  were  not  able  to  procure ;  I 
tasted  some  on  L'Avocare,  but  it  was  brackish.  The 
fishermen  stated  that  they  obtained  their  supply  from 
Coco  Island ;  we  dug  in  vain,  but  were  afterwards  in- 
formed that  it  was  on  the  Sand  Island  (com minuted 
coral)  immediately  to  the  northward  of  Coco  Island. 


204  ARRIVE  AT  MAURITIUS.  [1846. 

The  position  of  Coco  Island  was  determined  to  be  in 
Lat.  16°  48'  50"  S.,  Long.  59°  81'  48"  E.,  Dip.  —  50° 
11'.  Var.  7°  54'  12"  W. 

Our  duties  having  been  completed,  we  were  heartily 
rejoiced  at  taking  leave  of  this  very  uninteresting  group. 
Our  detention  here  had  been  attended  with  most  harassing 
duties,  crew  constantly  wet,  landing  on  the  detached 
islands  difficult,  as  well  as  hazardous,  and  nothing  but 
being  close  under  the  lee  prevented  our  being  constantly 
under  close-reefed  top-sails,  and  experiencing  very  un- 
pleasant weather. 

As  the  great  object  at  present  was  to  perfect  our 
Meridian  distance,  all  sail  was  carried  to  reach  the  Mau- 
ritius, which  we  made  on  the  24th,  and  running  between 
the  Gunner's  Quoin  and  the  northern  point  of  the  island, 
soon  sighted  the  Mag  of  Rear  Admiral  Dacres  (the  Com- 
mander-in-Chief  at  the  Cape  station)  flying  on  board 
H.M.S.  '  President '.  Our  number  made,  and  permission 
requested  to  enter  the  harbour,  the  steamer  shortly  took 
us  in  tow,  and  by  5  o'clock,  we  were  safely  moored 
within  the  '  President ',  with  the  '  Snake  ',  Captain  Brown, 
on  our  beam. 


205 


CHAPTER  XV. 

MAUEITIUS  TO  ENGLAND. 

Leave  Mauritius — Pass  Island  of  Bourbon — Cape  of  Good  Hope — 
Simon's  Bay — Illness  of  Lieut.  Roberton — Left  at  sick  quarters 
— He-survey  of  Table  Bay — Proposed  construction  of  a  Break- 
water— St.  Helena — Terrific  consequences  of  the  rollers — Ascen- 
sion Island — Excitement  on  nearing  home — Violent  Gale — Nar- 
row escape  of  the  ship — Reach  Spithead — Ordered  to  Chatham — 
Paid  off — Conclusion. 

BEING  detained  at  the  Mauritius,  principally  for  the  pur- 
pose of  rating  our  Chronometers,  we  had  more  leisure 
time  than  we  usually  enjoyed  in  port,  and  between  the 
hospitality  of  the  Governor,  Sir  W.  Gomm,  of  Admiral 
Dacres,  and  our  military  friends,  we  enjoyed  our  visit 
extremely.  As  this  island  has  been  fully  described  by 
former  voyagers,  and  my  pursuits  did  not  lead  me  into 
the  interior,  I  pass  over  this  spot  without  any  further 
allusion. 

On  the  3rd  Sept.  we  sailed  out  of  the  Mauritius,  shaping 
our  course  past  the  Island  of  Bourbon,  for  the  southern 
coast  of  Africa.  Nothing  worthy  of  note  occurred  until 
the  17th,  when  we  made  the  African  coast,  and  ran  into 
soundings  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Great  Fish  River, 
when  we  shaped  our  course  alongshore,  for  Cape  Agulhas, 


206  MAURITIUS.  [1846. 

(literally  needles,  in  the  Spanish  language,  but  corrupted 
by  seamen  into  Lagullas).  We  noticed  several  vessels 
lying  at  anchor  off  Port  Elizabeth,  and  made  our  number 
to  one,  by  the  aid  of  Marryat's  Code.  We  were  not  at 
the  time  aware  of  the  vicinity  of  the  Governor  and 
troops  to  this  place,  or  our  course  would  have  been 
directed  nearer  to  the  shore,  and  a  communication 
effected.  We  were  able,  however,  to  discover  that  our 
inside  friends  were  not  in  enviable  berths,  as  they  were 
then  (nearly  calm  in  shore),  rolling  most  unpleasantly. 

At  dawn  on  the  morning  of  the  21st,  we  found  our- 
selves becalmed  off  Cape  Agulhas,  and  being  in  sound- 
ings the  first  Lieut,  apprized  me  that  I  had  a  chance  for 
fish.  I  immediately  went  on  deck,  and,  with  my  usual 
luck,  in  two  hours  hooked  forty-two  fine  fish,  varying 
from  six  to  thirty-six  pounds.  A  very  curious  fact  was 
here  discovered  which  saved  me  a  very  great  portion  of 
fatigue.  I  think  that  we  were  at  the  time  in  thirty 
fathoms.  This  was  a  long  pull  (although  I  had  two  of 
my  boats  crew  ready  for  the  heavy  work)  but  immediately 
after  taking  the  first  fish,  I  found  that  the  lead  ceased 
to  descend,  as  fast  as  it  should  do,  at  five  fathoms,  and, 
upon  trying  the  line,  found  that  the  shoal  of  fish  which 
swarmed  at  that  depth  were  too  voracious  to  permit  of  its 
passing  below  to  their  brethren  beneath.  These,  and  a 
few  others,  taken  by  those  around  me,  afforded  a  fresh 
meal  to  the  whole  crew.  Vessels  homeward  bound, 
generally  manage  to  touch  upon  the  tail  of  this  bank ;  as 
I  have  taken  fish  at  seventy-six  fathoms  on  it,  many  a 
poor  fellow  who  may  be  fretting  at  his  hard  fate  at  being 
becalmed,  may  divert  his  chagrin  by  treating  himself,  not 


1846.]  SHOAL  OF  FISH.  207 

only  to  the  sport  of  capture,  but  also  to  the  gratification 
of  a  treat,  quite  equal  to  Billingsgate,  and  more  enjoyable, 
possibly,  for  the  seventy-six  fathom  exercise  which  it 
provided.  On  the  night  of  the  22nd  we  passed  Cape 
Hanglip,  but  mistaking  the  force  of  the  current,  and  the 
master  mistaking  the  land,  we  had  over-shot  our  mark ; 
and  on  the  morning  following,  when  we  thought  our- 
selves in  a  position  to  run  with  a  flowing  sheet  into 
Simon's  Bay,  had  the  mortification  to  discover  that  we 
had  rounded  the  Cape  during  the  night,  and  the  breeze 
having  failed,  were  being  swept  away  by  the  current  to 
the  N.W.  Fortunately,  we  managed  to  beat  back  that 
night,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  23rd  re-passed  the  Cape, 
and  dropped  our  anchor  about  5,  P.M.,  in  Simon's  Bay. 

Here  I  found  Capt.  Kelly  in  H.M.S.  '  Conway ',  and 
Commander  Radcliffe,  of  the  'Apollo',  troop  ship,  the  latter 
vessel  had  just  returned  from  Port  Elizabeth,  on  the  eastern 
coast,  where  she  had  narrowly  escaped  shipwreck ;  having 
parted  her  cables,  and  by  sheer  dint  of  good  sailing,  as 
well  as  seamanship,  gained  her  offing,  and  returned  to 
this  port.  The  period  of  our  stay  was  employed  in  the 
examination  of  Simon's  Bay,  and  construction  of  its 
chart.  During  the  interval  which  had  elapsed  since  our 
quitting  this  port  in  1843,  and  the  present,  a  Light- 
vessel  had  been  established  off  the  Roman  Rocks.  To 
her  position,  and  the  general  fitness  of  the  vessel  for  this 
service,  my  attention  was  directed.  Owing  to  insuffi- 
ciency of  beam  she  was  not  able  to  display  her  light  at 
her  mast-head,  in  any  weather  which  could  be  termed 
fresh.  It  was  therefore  lowered  half  mast.  In  a  gale  it 
could  not  be  shown  above  the  deck.  It  must,  therefore, 


208  LIGHTHOUSE.  [1846. 

be  apparent,  to  my  readers,  that  the  publication  to  the 
nautical  world  "  that  a  light  was  exhibited  thirty-seven  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,"  was  not  correct,  and  that  at 
the  two  most  important  moments,  when  the  value  was 
required,  any  judge  of  distance  would  be  led  astray  by  the 
untrue  height  at  which  the  light  was  displayed.  At  the 
moment  of  my  visiting  the  vessel  the  motion  was  very  un- 
pleasant, and,  although  calm,  the  grating  of  the  moorings 
over  the  rocks  was  so  alarming,  I  can  hardly  imagine  that 
her  crew  could  possibly  obtain  rest  in  blowing  weather. 
Hovever,  custom  inures  us  to  worse  than  this,  I  have  wit- 
nessed that  fatigue  will  allow  of  a  sound  sleep  on  &pile 
of  shot,  with  twenty-four  pounders  smartly  discharged, 
and  recoiling  within  a  few  feet  of  the  dozer.  But  this  was 
not  all :  the  bights  of  these  moorings  frequently  caught 
under  the  rocks,  and  unless  they  yielded,  endangered 
swamping,  and  loss  of  all  on  board.  I  was  informed,  that 
twice  since  her  being  placed,  her  moorings  (sufficiently 
strong  for  a  frigate,  and  now  adapted  to  a  vessel  about 
100  tons)  had  been  replaced,  in  consequence  of  injury 
from  chafing  over  the  rocks. 

I  cannot,  therefore,  take  leave  of  this  subject  without 
the  following  observations.  I  think,  that  in  all  cases 
where  light-vessels  are  intended  to  be  placed,  a  very  severe 
scrutiny  should  precede  their  adoption ;  not  simply  as  to 
the  mere  requirements  of  the  port,  but  also  to  the  most 
serious  consequences  which  its  partial,  or  total,  failure  may 
entail ;  not  only  upon  our  own  ships  of  war  and  merchant- 
men, but  also  upon  those  of  foreigners,  who  upon  reading 
the  official  notification  that  a  light  is  displayed  at  thirty- 
seven  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  run  boldly  upon  the 


1846.]  FLOATING  LIGHT.  209 

calculation  for  distance  resulting  to  that  height,  when  truly, 
at  the  moment  of  danger,  and  when  most  imperatively 
called  for,  it  is  only  twelve,  and  that,  in  all  probability, 
partially  obscured  by  the  pitching  of  the  vessel.  The 
incapacity  of  the  vessel,  in  the  first  instance,  to  sustain 
the  lanthorn  aloft  in  bad  weather,  is  the  first  deceptive 
evil;  the  chance  of  breaking  adrift,  swamping,  or  de- 
struction, the  second. 

Referring  to  the  severe  scrutiny  I  have  suggested,  I 
think,  that  before  the  adoption  of  any  floating  light,  it 
should  be  imperative  that  another,  adequate  to  supply  her 
place,  should  be  ready.  The  loss  of  any  British  vessel, 
by  such  a  failure,  would  be  loudly  proclaimed,  but  the  re- 
flection, if  such  a  misfortune  befel  a  Strange  vessel  of 
War,  would  be  sensibly  felt  by  our  Government.  It  will 
naturally  occur  to  the  minds  of  most  of  my  readers  to 
inquire  whether  this  vessel  (and,  as  I  have  suggested,  her 
duplicate)  cannot,  with  all  her  expenses,  be  superseded  by 
a  lighthouse  upon  the  Roman  Rocks  ?  I  cannot  safely 
reply  in  the  affirmative,  but  I  have  been  informed  by 
Mr.  A.  Gordon,  Civil  Engineer,  that  if  a  base  of  twelve 
or  thirteen  feet  rock  can  be  secured,  an  iron  lighthouse 
of  seventy  feet  may  be  raised  at  a  moderate  expense; 
less,  than  the  cost,  wear  and  tear,  of  one  vessel  for  five 
years.  All  these  matters  were  much  agitated  during  my 
visit,  and  as  they  were  to  be  followed  by  an  official  repre- 
sentation from  a  higher  quarter,  I  trust  that  the  matter 
will  receive  the  attention  of  Government. 

On  the  7th  of  October  H.M.S  '  Apollo ',  having  on 
board  invalids,  &c.,  quitted  for  England,  and  as  our 
operations  in  Simon's  Bay  were  complete,  the '  Samarang ' 

VOL.  II.  P 


210  LIEUT.  ROBERTON.  [1846. 

was  moved  to  Table  Bay,  there  to  await  the  arrival  of 
Admiral  Dacres  and  convey  his  final  Despatches  for 
England.  Lieut.  Roberton,  whose  name  has  frequently 
been  noticed  in  this  narrative,  and  who  was  my  frequent 
associate  on  boat  service,  supplying  the  place  of  my 
lamented  friend  Lieut.  Baugh,  who  had  been  sent  home 
a  year  previously,  was  left  behind  at  the  Hospital  ,at 
Simon's  Bay  with  the  purpose  of  following  in  some  of 
the  homeward-bound  ships-of-war  at  a  more  favourable 
season  of  the  year.  His  health,  since  our  return  from 
the  Japanese  cruize,  continued  to  fail,  and  he  was 
now  so  far  reduced  as  to  afford  little  prospect  of  his 
recovery.  The  pain  of  separating  from  all  his  associates 
was  sensibly  felt.  As  a  gentleman,  and  friend,  I  valued 
him ;  as  an  Officer,  he  was  exemplary ;  and,  from  his 
untiring  zeal,  his  conduct  at  all  times  merited  my  confi- 
dence and  entire  approbation.  I  regret  to  say  that  the 
receipt  of  recent  intelligence  has  confirmed  our  worst 
apprehensions ;  he  died  very  shortly  after  our  departure. 
The  present  visit  to  Table  Bay,  although  not  affording 
the  customary  gaiety  which  the  presence  of  the  Governor 
and  garrison  generally  entailed,  was  sufficiently  pleasant 
amongst  the  personal  friends  I  found  remaining.  Cape 
Town  was,  indeed,  dull;  the  troops  absent  on  the  Frontier, 
and  the  military  positions  and  barracks  occupied  by 
the  Burgher  force.  My  occupations,  however,  afforded 
me  sufficient  employment  to  prevent  my  feeling  the 
change.  The  principal  object  of  our  visit  to  Table  Bay 
was  its  re-survey,  in  consequence  of  the  intended  con- 
struction of  a  Break-water ;  and,  although  the  measure, 
by  the  papers  supplied  to  me,  appeared  to  have  already 


1846.]  BREAK-WATER  AT  TABLE  BAY.  211 

obtained  the  sanction  of  the  Home  Government,  still  it  was 
imagined  that  some  modification  might  be  directed,  not 
only  as  to  its  general  lines,  its  connection,  or  otherwise, 
with  the  main,  but  also  its  adaptation  to  naval  interests. 
The  sum  proposed  had  been  estimated  at  300,000/.,  but 
as  in  all  such  matters,  hitherto  projected,  we  may  safely 
assume,  that  its  completion  will  not  be  covered  by  nearly 
a  million. 

In  a  mercantile  point  of  view,  the  Break-water  may 
possibly  suffice  for  the  number  of  merchant  vessels  which 
at  present  frequent  the  Bay,  but  if  any  such  outlay  is  sanc- 
tioned by  Her  Majesty's  Government,  I  think  that  some- 
thing more  than  the  mere  accommodation  of  the  merchant 
shipping  should  be  embraced,  and  that  as  a  positive  increase 
of  trade  and  shipping  would  naturally  occur,  it  would  invite 
an  enemy  to  make  this  a  most  decided  point  of  aggression ; 
naval  aid  will  therefore  be  required.  As  under  the  present 
lines  adequate  shelter  is  not  easily  obtained,  it  would  be 
advisable  to  suspend  operations  until  the  best  opinion  of 
a  Board  of  Naval  and  Military  men,  unconnected  with 
local  opinions,  should  report,  not  only  upon  the  projected, 
or  later,  plans,  but  should  also  state  their  opinions  as  to 
the  probability  of  a  slaty  foundation  being  adequate  to  the 
proper  support  of  masonry.  The  Dutch  tried  it  many 
years  ago,  and  failed.  If  the  experiment  fails  where  it  is 
now  to  be  attempted,  the  present  anchorage  will  be  in- 
jured, if  not  ruined.  The  present  defences  of  the  bay  are 
in  no  way  calculated  to  protect  works  of  such  value,  we 
may,  therefore,  add,  to  any  outlay  upon  the  sea,  cor- 
responding defences  on  shore. 

With  regard  to  the  two  lighthouses  erected  in  Table 

p2 


212  ST.  HELENA.  [1846. 

Bay,  one  stands  upon  Green  Point,  having  two  lanthorns, 
the  other  upon  Monille  Point,  having  one,  of  the  fourth- 
class  lenticular.  As  lighthouses,  they  may  be  useful,  but 
when  an  expense  of  three  lanthorns  has  been  incurred,  I 
should  have  been  glad  to  have  seen  them  so  placed  as  to 
embrace  every  useful  adaptation  connected  with  pilotage. 
This  has  not  been  sufficiently  studied,  either  in  their 
positions  or  adaptation. 

On  the  21st  of  October,  H.M.S.  '  President '  arrived  at 
Simon's  Bay,  and  having  taken  my  leave  of,  and  received 
the  Despatches  from,  the  Admiral,  we  quitted  Table  Bay 
on  the  24th,  for  St.  Helena.  Immediately  preceding  our 
departure,  the  new  Governor  of  St.  Helena,  Sir  Patrick 
Stuart,  appointed  to  succeed  Colonel  Trelawny,  deceased, 
arrived  in  one  of  the  Indian  ships,  and  remained  at  the 
Cape  awaiting  the  first  convenient  vessel  that  would  touch 
at  that  island.  After  a  favourable  passage  of  sixteen  days 
we  sighted  the  island  during  the  night  of  the  8th  Nov., 
and  about  5  A.M.  on  the  9th,  dropped  our  anchor  off 
James'  Town.  Here  we  found  H.  M.  Brig  '  Heroine ', 
the  French  Troop  Ship  '  Oise ',  and  several  prizes  cap- 
tured by  our  African  cruizers.  Having  completed  water, 
we  took  our  departure  on  the  evening  of  the  10th,  for 
Ascension. 

Since  calling  in  1842  the  Island  had  been  visited  by 
one  of  those  dreadful  scourges  which  are  experienced 
generally  in  intertropical  positions,  but  which  have 
occurred  as  far  south  as  Tristan  d'Acunha.  This  is  the 
Roller,  which  in  a  dead  calm  sets  in  upon  the  shore 
with  incredible  violence,  swamping  even  vessels  of  war 
which  may  happen  to  be  within  its  range.  It  has 


1846.]  EFFECTS  OF  THE  ROLLERS.  213 

occurred,  within  my  knowledge,  at  four  different  places : 
Tristan  d'Acunha,  St.  Helena,  Ascension,  and  Mazatlan 
in  the  Gulf  of  California.  At  Tristan  d'Acunha  H.  M. 
Brig  '  Julia '  foundered  with  all  on  board ;  the  Captain 
and  his  boat's  crew,  which  were  on  shore  at  the  moment, 
being  the  only  persons  saved.  At  St.  Helena,  the  in- 
shore slave  prizes  were  the  principal  sufferers,  but  the 
garrison  walls  were  undermined  and  thrown  down,  and 
the  sea  broke  furiously  over  the  ramparts  into  Govern- 
ment House.  I  am  not  aware  of  the  damage  done  at 

o 

Ascension.*  At  Mazatlan,  situated  on  the  Mexican  side 
of  the  Gulf  of  California,  this  is  of  frequent  occurrence, 
expected  annually,  and  much  dreaded  by  us  in  the 
'  Blossom '  in  1827,  and  '  Sulphur '  in  1839.  One  fine 
vessel,  commanded  by  a  friend  of  mine,  with  himself  and 

*  "St.  Helena  has  ever  boasted  of  the  safety  of  its  roadstead,  and 
that  most  justly,  as  no  individual  upon  the  island  can  remember  a 
solitary  instance  of  a  vessel  having  been  wrecked  upon  its  shores. 
Those  who  witnessed  the  scene  presented  on  Tuesday,  the  17th  instant, 
alas  !  will  have  a  different  tale  to  tell.  The  roadstead,  which  only 
the  day  previous  was  like  a  mill  pond,  was  a  sea  of  troubled  waters. 

"  During  Monday  night,  the  rollers  for  which  St.  Helena  has  ever 
been  celebrated,  the  cause  of  which  is  altogether  unaccounted  for, 
began  gradually  to  rise,  and  on  Tuesday  had  increased  to  an  awful 
height,  like  so  many  rolling  mountains,  one  after  another,  driving 
every  thing  before  them.  The  English  schooner  Cornelia,  condemned 
at  this  port  a  short  time  since,  and  purchased  by  Mr.  Cole,  was  the 
h'rst  vessel  driven  on  shore.  If  the  person  in  charge  of  this  vessel 
had  been  left  five  minutes  longer  than  he  was  on  board,  it  would  have 
been  out  of  the  power  of  human  aid  to  have  saved  his  life,  as  the 
vessel,  some  distance  from  the  shore,  was  buried  in  the  tremendous 
seas,  and  ultimately  came  in  upon  the  beach :  in  a  few  minutes  she 
was  a  mass  of  splinters." — St.  Helena  Gazette. 

For  full  particulars  of  this  disaster,  in  which  thirteen  vessels,  and 
three  men  were  lost,  vide  'Nautical  Magazine  '  for  June,  1846. 


214  ASCENSION.  [1846. 

crew  was  utterly  destroyed  in  1836,  the  receding  wave 
leaving  his  vessel  dry,  and  the  returning  dashing  her  to 
atoms.  This  is  said  to  be  averted  by  securely  mooring 
head  to  seaward,  by  which  measure  others,  it  appears, 
escaped.  It  can  only  be  compared  to  those  Rollers  which 
have,  from  time  to  time,  been  described  as  visiting  places 
under  influence  of  earthquake.  Similar  Rollers,  on  a 
small,  and  less  dangerous,  scale,  have  visited  San  Bias. 
Why  it  is  so  regular  at  Mazatlan,  a  little  further  north, 
is  a  problem  worthy  of  consideration.  Quitting  St. 
Helena  on  the  evening  of  the  10th,  we  reached  Ascension 
shortly  after  dawn  on  the  morning  of  Sunday  the  15th, 
where  we  found  H.  M.  S.  '  Devastation ',  bearing  the 
broad  Pennant  of  Commodore  Sir  Charles  Hotham,  the 
'  Lily ',  '  Cacique ',  and  '  Tortoise '.  Ascension  had  ex- 
perienced not  only  a  very  dry  season,  but,  either  from 
the  exercise  of  great  guns,  or  some  other  disturbing 
cause,  there  had  also  been  a  scarcity  of  turtle,  conse- 
quently, we  did  not  receive  the  customary  supply.  After 
paying  my  respects  to  the  Commodore,  and  accompanying 
him  to  the  Service  at  the  Chapel,  I  returned  to  his 
quarters  and  remained  until  evening,  when,  having  re- 
ceived his  Despatches,  we  were  again  in  motion  about 
10  P.M.,  for  our  final  destination — England. 

Our  passage  homeward  was  not  so  rapid  as  we  antici- 
pated at  this  season,  and  on  the  22nd  of  Dec.,  the  42nd 
day  from  quitting  St.  Helena,  we  had  barely  reached  the 
limits  of  the  great  Bank  of  Soundings  extending  off  the 
mouth  of  the  English  Channel,  although  our  velocity 
precluded  our  getting  bottom ;  and,  with  a  fine  westerly 
breeze  springing  up,  were  rapidly  decreasing  our  distance 


1846.]  HOMEWARD  BOUND.  215 

from  home.  The  temperature,  which  had  now  fallen  to  54°, 
was  sharply  felt  by  men  so  long  accustomed  to  tropical 
regions,  where  that  of  76°  was  almost  chilly,  but  possibly 
this  feeling  was  much  increased  in  my  own  mind,  for  I 
believe  that  I  was  the  greatest  sufferer. 

Those  who  have  made  similar  voyages,  especially  after  an 
absence  of  nearly  four  years,  can  readily  picture  the  anxiety 
of  the  greater  part  of  my  crew  to  reach  England  in  time  to 
participate  in  the  festivities  of  the  approaching  Christmas. 
Many  were  the  prophecies,  and  numerous  the  bets,  as  to 
the  glad  day  on  which  we  should  reach  home.  Even  the 
old  ship  herself  seemed  to  share  in  this  pleasurable  ex- 
citement, and  lightened  of  stores,  provisions  and  water, 
was  gaily  bounding  over  the  waves,  increasing  hourly  her 
speed,  until  she  had  attained  the  velocity  of  eleven  knots. 

Little  did  any  of  us,  however,  dream  that  these  cheerful 
anticipations  of  the  evening  were  so  nearly  approaching 
to  an  awful  crisis.  I  had  previously  given  directions  to 
be  called  before  midnight,  in  order  that  sail  might,  if 
necessary,  be  reduced  by  both  watches,  and  thus  avoid 
the  necessity  of  disturbing  them  during  the  night.  She 
was  then  reduced  to  a  close-reefed  main-top-sail  and  fore- 
sail, and  the  watch  called.  Her  velocity,  I  find,  recorded 
under  this  canvas,  ten  knots.  The  watch  were  employed 
getting  topgallant  masts  on  deck,  and  making  all  snug 
aloft.  I  had  not  been  below  long,  when  I  detected,  by 
the  motion,  that  she  was  badly  steered.  The  foresail  was 
taken  in,  and  a  fresh  helmsman  placed ;  her  velocity  had 
now  increased  to  thirteen  knots.  The  temperature  fell, 
a  short  cross  sea,  evidently  showing  a  contrary  wind  not 
far  distant,  made  her  very  uneasy.  Shortly  after,  a  sea, 


216  TERRIFIC  GALE.  [1846. 

with  a  crash  which  shivered  the  strong  plate  glass  of  my 
skylight,  and  greatly  damaged  it,  as  well  as  staving  in 
several  main  deck  ports,  heeling  the  ship  at  the  same 
moment  heavily  to  starboard,  and  washing  me  in  my  cot, 
informed  me  that  my  presence  was  required  on  deck. 

As  I  passed  through  my  cabin  door  I  found  the  ship 
flooded  on  the  main  deck,  the  water  rushing  down  the 
hatchways,  and  "  all  hands  ",  without  the  necessity  for 
"  the  shrill  pipe  of  the  Boatswain  ",  scrambling,  or  rushing 
wildly,  up  the  hatchways,  at  this  inclement  season, 
almost  in  a  state  of  nudity.  Owing  to  the  very  spirited 
exertions  of  our  able  carpenter,  Mr.  Daw,  aided  by  his 
crew,  the  hatchways  were  instantly  battened  down,  and  to 
the  due  preparation  for  this  emergency  (nightly  at  quarters) 
were  we  principally  indebted  for  our  preservation. 

On  reaching  the  deck,  1  found  the  Officers  flying  to 
their  stations,  many  rather  scantily  clad  for  the  winter 
season  of  the  year  in  this  region,  and  anxiously  awaiting 
my  instructions.  At  no  moment  of  my  life  did  I  ever 
experience  so  truly,  the  inestimable  value  of  a  well-disci- 
plined set  of  Officers  and  men,  accustomed  to  danger. 
No  symptom  of  fear,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  and 
cheerfulness,  if  such  could  be  expected  at  such  an  awful 
moment,  seemed  to  animate  all  around  me.  These  are 
moments  when  an  Officer  can  be  fully  repaid  for  all  his 
anxieties,  when  he  feels,  that  although  he  holds  the  scales 
of  almost  life  or  death  to  the  hundreds  under  his  com- 
mand, they  cheerfully  look  to  his  decision,  confident  that 
he  will,  Deo  volente,  bring  them  through  their  difficulties. 

Kying  through  the  water  at  a  velocity  of  thirteen 
knots,  steerage  not  only  became  difficult,  but  too  hazardous 


1846.]  PERILOUS  MOMENTS.  217 

to  be  continued;  preservation  depended  upon  our  in- 
stantly '  rounding  to/  a  manoeuvre  of  which  my  nautical 
brethren  will  instantly  comprehend  the  danger,  but  with 
a  main-top-sail  over  our  heads,  and  the  ship  fluttering 
for  her  existence  (being  then  almost  under  water) perilous 
to  the  last  degree.  The  performance  of  so  dangerous 
a  service  depended  entirely  on  the  most  scrupulous 
observance  of  my  orders ;  to  secure  their  perfect  and 
speedy  transmission  to  the  forecastle,  a  chain  of  Officers 
was  established  to  pass  the  word,  and  by  these  means 
they  were  carried  out  by  them  respectively  with  such  a 
degree  of  zeal  and  precision,  to  a  fathom  of  brace,  as  I 
never  saw  surpassed,  even  in  a  royal  breeze.  It  was 
imperative  that  the  main-top-sail  should  be  annihilated 
over-head,  without  pressing  the  ship;  in  fact,  to  split  it  to 
ribbands,  and  to  prevent  the  weight  of  this  powerful  sail 
literally  capsizing  us ;  at  the  same  time,  it  was  necessary 
to  humour  it  until  it  had  done  its  duty.  To  have  clued 
it  up,  under  the  chance  of  its  bellying  into  a  bag,  would 
have  entailed  instant  destruction  ;  nor  could  time  or  force 
be  spared  :  the  danger  was  imminent.  The  Officers  were 
apprized  of  my  intentions,  and  took  instant  measures  for 
securing  their  effectual  completion.  The  leading  seamen, 
themselves,  seemed  intuitively  to  comprehend  my  views, 
took  their  stations,  and  if  ever  ship  of  war  could  be  com- 
pared to  a  piece  of  mechanism,  such  a  comparison  might 
have  been  made  at  this  moment. 

Doubtless  some  of  my  naval  readers,  sitting  at  their  ease 
ashore,  with  their  legs  under  their  mahogany,  enjoying 
their  port  wine  and  nuts,  may  be  perusing  this  with  a 
critical  eye ;  but  let  them  figure  to  themselves  the  posi- 


218  "  BROACHING  TO."  [1846. 

tion,  the  almost  certain  destruction,  under  received  notions 
of  "  broaching  to,"  that  stared  every  one  in  the  face ;  the 
necessity  for  thought,  and  action,  the  getting  up  of  a  firm- 
ness and  decision  at  such  a  moment,  as  should  inspire 
those  around  with  confidence,  and  belief  that  it  was  in  the 
power  of  their  Commander  to  achieve  their  safety :  these 
were  instantaneous.  I  saw,  that  to  avoid  the  evil  of 
"broaching  to"  too  abruptly,  I  must  treat  her  as  a 
well-trained  horse,  throw  her  gradually  on  her  haunches, 
then  give  her  the  rein,  and  let  her  take  her  humour.  The 
orders,  I  have  already  observed,  were  transmitted  so  per- 
fectly that  my  views  were  duly  executed.  Handling  the 
main  braces  forward,  so  as  to  neutralize,  or  shiver,  the 
main-top-sail  as  she  came  to  to  starboard,  it  was  occa- 
sionally spilling  aback,  or  filled,  until  I  could  stop  her 
way,  when,  watching  my  moment,  the  weather  and  lee 
main-top-sail  sheets  were  so  eased  together,  and  the  main 
yard  braced  aback  as  to  shiver  and  split  the  sail  to  ribbands 
(this  I  foresaw  would  be  commenced  by  the  chain  top-sail 
sheets),  but  under  this  she  heeled  awfully.  Permission 
was  asked  "to  cut  away  the  masts,"  but  it  was  too 
palpable,  that  ere  five  minutes  could  elapse  our  fate  would 
be  decided,  my  reply  was,  "  you  may  order  the  axes  up, 
and  see  to  the  laniards,  but  first  ascertain  for  me  the 
exact  inch  to  which  she  is  depressed  at  the  main  hatch- 
way." "  One  inch  clear,  and  battened  down,"  was  the 
firm  reply,  and  such  a  reply,  at  such  a  moment,  was  new 
life.  "  Hold  on ;  the  masts  will  take  her  home  "  !  That 
reply  inspired  the  crew  with  more  confidence  than  if  they 
had  heard  the  crash  of  the  falling  masts.  What  the 
feelings  were  of  those  around  me  I  could  not  divine,  but 


1846.]  DELIVERANCE.  219 

I  think  there  were  but  few  who  did  not  internally  send 
up  a  fervent  prayer  to  "  Him  who  rules  the  storm  "  for  our 
merciful  deliverance.  The  moments  were  awful ;  safety,  or 
probably  more  serious  thoughts,  seemed  to  paralyse  con- 
versation. We  remained  at  our  posts  anxiously,  and  almost 
silently,  awaiting  dawn.  The  gusts  were  fearfully  heavy, 
and  good  sea-boat  as  the  '  Samarang '  had  always  proved 
herself,  still  she  writhed  under  it,  and  owing  to  her  lee 
ports  being  open,  lashing  the  water  fore  and  aft,  with  a 
most  disheartening  noise.  With  the  dawn,  measures  were 
taken  for  repairing  defects,  clearing  the  holds  of  the  water 
shipped  down  the  hatchways,  and  lightening  the  ship  of 
all  top  hamper.  About  8  o'clock  we  noticed  a  schooner 
on  our  lee  bow,  on  which  we  should  inevitably  have  fallen 
had  it  not  been  daylight.  Setting  our  fore  storm  stay- 
sail, we  gathered  sufficient  steerage  way  to  pass  under 
her  lee,  and  thus  saved  both  from  much  anxiety.  As  we 
passed  close  to  her  we  looked  for  some  tokens  of  life,  and 
although  it  was  very  evident,  from  her  canvas,  that  she 
was  properly  handled,  not  a  soul  was  noticed  on  her 
decks,  even  at  her  helm ;  it  is  probable,  therefore,  that 
her  helm  had  been  lashed  a-lee,  and  the  helmsman  gone 
below  to  the  cabin  to  report  our  motions.  She  subse- 
quently proved  to  be  one  of  the  Mediterranean  fruit 
vessels. 

Less  than  twenty-four  hours  had  elapsed,  from  the  rising  of 
this  gale,  when  we  experienced  a  foul  wind  succeeded  by 
calm,  with  all  the  concomitant  disagreeables  of  tumbling 
about,  and  heavy  flapping  of  the  sails,  a  sensation  parti- 
cularly harassing  to  any  one  who  feels  for  his  craft,  and 
to  those  who  are  not  actively  occupied,  tedious  beyond 


220  REACH  SPITHEAD.  [1846. 

description.  Light  variable  breezes  succeeded  until  the 
28th,  when  we  had  only  reached  within  forty  miles  of  the 
'Lizard'.  On  the  31st  Dec.  we  reached  Spithead,  and 
saluted  the  Flag  of  Admiral  Sir  Charles  Ogle.  The  same 
evening  H.M.S.  '  Daphne '  arrived,  last  from  Vigo,  having 
experienced  the  same  gale. 

The  '  Samarang '  was  ordered  to  Chatham,  but  as  she 
had  on  board  12,000/.  in  four-penny-pieces,  returned  from 
the  Mauritius,  she  was  detained  until  the  weather  ad- 
mitted of  their  being  landed.  Late  in  the  evening  of  the 
5th  of  January,  we  weighed  from  Spithead,  but  the  thick 
weather  which  ensued,  obscured  the  lights,  and  finding 
ourselves  too  close  to  the  Horse  and  Dean  Shoals  we 
anchored  for  the  night,  weighing  before  daylight  the 
ensuing  morning,  in  order  to  be  beyond  sight  of  the 
Admiral's  Flag  before  8  o'clock,  which,  I  had  already 
been  apprized  would  entail  my  becoming  one  of  the 
members  of  a  Court  Martial,  for  which  they  had  already 
a  sufficient  number.  By  the  naval  regulations,  all  Captains 
and  Commanders  within  sight  of  the  Union  Flag  displayed 
on  board  a  ship  in  which  a  Court  Martial  is  held,  are 
bound  to  repair  on  board  in  full  dress.  The  Admirals 
and  Captains,  in  seniority,  until  the  number  amounts  to 
thirteen,  compose  the  Court.  The  remainder,  after  bowing 
to  the  President,  are  permitted  to  retire.  In  the  event  of 
there  being  only  three  of  the  rank  of  Admiral  or  Captain 
the  two  senior  Commanders  are  taken  in  to  make  a  Court, 
which  cannot  consist  of  less  than  five,  of  which  two  may 
be  Commanders.  On  the  8th  of  January,  1847,  we 
anchored  at  the  Little  Nore,  saluting  the  Flag  of  Vice 
Admiral  Sir  E.  D.  King,  the  Commander-in-Chief ;  on 


1847.]  CONCLUSION.  221 

the  morning  following  were  mustered,  and  exercised  in 
the  customary  inspection  of  gunnery  and  evolutions  by 
the  Flag  Captain,  and  immediately  after,  aided  by  a 
steam  tug,  our  ship  was  towed  to  Chatham. 

On  the  18th  the  '  Samarang '  was  paid  off  into  ordi- 
nary, and  from  her  being  built  of  teak,  and  pretty  good 
proof  afforded,  during  her  late  commission,  of  her  being 
a  very  strong  ship,  was  ordered  to  be  fitted  up  for  Port 
service  at  Gibraltar.  Upon  docking,  her  bottom  was 
found  to  have  suffered  much  injury  from  her  last 
grounding  off  Billiton,  but  nothing  of  a  nature  to  have 
rendered  her  un-seaworthy  for  a  longer  period. 

In  consideration  of  the  importance  of  the  objects  of 
Natural  History  collected  during  the  voyage,  the  Lords 
of  the  Treasury,  at  the  instance  of  the  Lords  Commis- 
sioners of  the  Admiralty,  have  granted  a  liberal  sum  in 
aid  of  their  publication ;  and  the  work  will  shortly  ap- 
pear under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Adams,  aided  by 
various  labourers,  distinguished  in  the  several  depart- 
ments. 

Mr.  Adams'  general  observations  on  the  Natural  His- 
tory of  the  countries  visited  during  the  expedition,  will 
now  follow,  and  the  volume  will  terminate  with^a  brief 
vocubulary  of  the  languages  spoken  between  Borneo  and 
the  Korea. 


NOTES 


A  JOUKNAL  OF  RESEARCH 


NATURAL    HISTORY 


COUNTEIES  VISITED 


DURING  THE 


VOYAGE    OF    H.M.S.    SAMARANG, 


UNDER  THE 


COMMAND  OF  CAPTAIN  SIR  E.  BELCHER,  C.B. 


BY 

ARTHUR  ADAMS,   ASSIST.  SURGEON. 

ATTACHED    TO    THE    EXPEDITION. 


"look  who  list  thy  gazeful  eyes  to  feed 
With  sight  of  that  is  fair,  look  on  the  frame 
Of  this  wyde  universe,  and  therein  read 
The  endless  kinds  of  creatures  which  hy  name 
Thou  canst  not  count,  much  less  their  natures  aime, 
All  which  are  made  with  wondrous  wise  respect, 
And  all  with  admirable  beauty  deckt." 

SPENCER  ;  Hymn  on  Heavenly  Beauty. 


225 


CHAPTER  I. 

CAPE  DE  VERBS.— CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE.— JAVA. 

Porto-Praya — A  Rainbow — Aspect  of  the  Village — Negro  Children — 
The  Lion-ant — Vegetation  of  Santiago — The  Bird  of  Pharaoh — 
The  Fishing  Eagle  of  Africa— The  Gecko— Splendid  Sun-set— 
Leave  Porto-Praya— The  Petrels  — The  Dolphin  —  Jelly-fish— 
Beautiful  Physalia — Double  the  Cape — Simon's  Bay — Scenery — 
Vegetation  —  The  Honey-suckers  —  The  Fishing  Cormorant — 
Reptiles — The  Sand-mole — The  Long-eared  Fox — Singular  habits 
of  a  Beetle — Insects  fertilizing  Flowers — Leave  Simon's  Bay — 
Eve  on  the  Indian  Ocean — Habits  of  the  Pteropods — The  Straits 
of  Sunda — Transparent  Crustaceans — Fecundity  of  the  Ocean — 
Remarkable  Crabs — Welcome  Say,  Java — Scenery — Natives — 
Habits  of  the  Plantain  Squirrel  —  The  Walking-leaf  Insect  — 
The  Carrier-Trochus — Animal  of  Marginella. 

AFTER  a  somewhat  tedious  and  protracted  voyage  across 
the  Atlantic,  we  anchored  at  Porto  Praya,  in  the  island 
of  St.  Jago,  on  the  3rd  of  March,  1843.  The  first  inci- 
dent that  occurred  to  me  on  landing,  was  getting  stung 
in  the  hand  by  a  large  hymenopterous  insect,  a  species  of 
Pepsis.  A  splendid  double  rainbow  which  just  then  made 
its  appearance,  soon,  however,  diverted  my  attention  from 
that  painful  circumstance,  for,  with  a  high  and  noble 
arc,  this  "  airy  child  of  vapour  and  the  sun  "  spanned 

VOL.  II.  Q 


226  ST.  JAGO. 

the  firmament,  one  end  buried  in  the  ocean,  and  the 
other  lost  behind  the  rugged  mountains  of  St.  Jago.  On 
strolling  through  the  village,  nothing,  at  first  sight, 
amused  me  so  much  as  the  astonishing  number  of  little, 
pot-bellied,  naked  children,  sprawling  about  the  sandy 
thoroughfares ;  groups  of  young,  black  girls,  dressed  up 
in  gaudy  shawls,  and,  in  many  cases,  smoking  short 
pipes,  contributed  materially  to  the  strangeness  of  the 
scene ;  while  itinerant  fruit-venders,  ugly  negroes  "  things 
of  shreds  and  patches ",  shouting  their  unintelligible 
jargon,  put  the  finishing  touch  to  the  picture.  The 
doctrines  of  Malthus  appear  here  to  be  utterly  disre- 
garded, and  the  place  literally  swarms  with  children. 
The  negro-mother  bears  her  living  burden  on  her  hip, 
supported  by  a  broad  and  padded  band,  one  of  the 
urchins'  legs  being  before  and  one  behind.  The  counte- 
nance of  these  young  Ethiops  is  most  amusing  and 
grotesque ;  they  are  always  very  solemn  in  their  look, 
and  their  sloe-black  eyes  gleam  keenly  all  around,  save 
when  you  notice  or  caress  them,  when  they  hide  their 
tiny  heads  in  apprehension  and  alarm.  Before  they  well 
can  hobble  on  their  legs,  the  heavens  form  their  only 
roof  and  God  their  only  safeguard.  Often  have  I  seen 
them  sprawling  on  the  ground,  licked  by  dogs,  pawed 
by  playful  cats,  kicked  by  careless  goats,  and  sometimes 
sorely  pecked  by  saucy  fowls ;  covered  with  dust,  and 
scrambling  on  its  belly,  the  little  creature  strains  and 
giggles,  striving  to  approach  its  mute  companions, — poor 
thing,  as  mute  itself  and  helpless  as  the  worst  of  them ! 

Strolling  along  the  beach  I  noticed  the  large,  hideous 
Sea-slug  (Aplysia),  and  the  cunning  Octopus,  the  manners 


LION-ANT. 

of  which  are  described  in  such  a  very  amusing  vein  by 
Darwin. 

Some  parts  of  the  sandy  plains  of  St.  Jago  are  covered 
with  the  ingenious  pit-falls  of  the  Lion-ant  (Myrmecleon 
formicarius),  and  I  observed  that  the  crowd  of  little, 
naked  negro-children  who  were  collecting  for  me,  always 
repeated  a  peculiar  humming  kind  of  song  as  they 
scratched  the  larvae  of  this  cruel  tiger  of  the  insect-world 
from  the  sand  with  their  fingers ;  no  doubt  a  kind  of 
ditty  similar  to  that  repeated  by  English  children,  when 
they  watch  the  Lady-bird  take  flight  from  their  finger. 

Mr.  Darwin,  whose  delightful  narrative  must  always 
be  read  with  interest  and  pleasure,  has  justly  described 
the  usual  desolate  appearance  of  this  island,  but  I  think 
he  has  hardly  done  justice  to  its  yet  remaining  vegetation. 
In  the  course  of  my  rambles,  even  in  the  vicinity  of 
Porto  Praya,  I  was  much  struck  by  the  aspect  of  many 
plants,  although  my  eye,  not  then  being  accustomed  to 
tropical  forms,  might  have  viewed  them  with  an  interest 
too  earnest  and  partial.  For,  although  the  island  of 
St.  Jago,  of  a  volcanic  origin,  is  covered  with  a  dry  and 
barren  soil,  yet  there  may  be  seen  plantations  of  Coco- 
Nuts,  Plantains,  and  Tamarinds,  with  the  Pandanus 
and  Palmyra  Palms,  besides  Orange,  Pig,  and  Lemon 
trees,  and  Pine-apple  plants.  Near  the  village  of  Ribeira- 
Grande,  I  noticed  the  beautiful  and  elegant  Melia  Aze- 
derach,  with  its  lively  panicles  of  lilac  flowers,  and  small 
olive-like  fruit. 

The  Aloes,  growing  here  in  large  masses,  have  a  very 
pretty  effect  when  their  blossoms  are  expanded,  and, 
among  their  large  yellow  spikes  of  bell-shaped  corollas, 

Q2 


228  CASTOR-OIL  PLANT. 

many  singular  small  species  of  Coleoptera  were  found. 
The  Batatas  edulis  is  met  with  nearly  wild,  and,  as  it 
trails  along  the  ground,  its  large,  red,  infundibuliform 
flowers  relieve  the  sterile  aspect  of  the  landscape,  the 
sombre  effect  of  which  is  further  enlivened  by  the  gaudy 
yellow  petals  of  the  Cotton  plant  (Gossypium  herbaceum}. 
A  splendid  species  of  Asclepias  rewarded  our  research, 
though  it  appeared  to  be  very  uncommon,  and  a  pretty 
little  labiate  flower,  the  Ajuga  Iva,  was  found  in  consi- 
derable numbers,  which  yielded,  when  pressed,  a  very 
agreeable  odour  of  musk,  and  was  hence  formerly  named 
Tencrium  Moschatum.  The  Datura  Tatula,  though 
originally  a  native  of  Portugal,  grows  wild,  and  is  a 
violent  narcotic  poison,  and  might  be  substituted  for 
Strammonium  in  the  practice  of  medicine ;  another 
species,  Datura  Metel,  with  a  very  large  and  splendid 
white  corolla,  is  also  very  common.  The  Castor-oil  plant 
(Ricinus  communis)  with  its  glaucous  spikes  and  prickly 
capsules,  seems  to  thrive  here,  as  in  most  other  barren 
places  in  the  tropics,  although  the  oil  is  not  valued  by 
the  natives;  the  negro  children,  however,  seem  very 
fond  of  the  kernels,  which  are  agreeable  to  the  taste  and 
not  purgative.*  The  Cucumis  Colocynthis  is  a  very 
common  weed  in  St.  Jago ;  the  ripe  fruit  is  as  large  as  a 
small  orange,  and  in  the  green  state  is  intensely  bitter 
and  powerfully  cathartic. 

*  According  to  Crawford  the  same  neglect  of  this  useful  purgative  is 
evinced  throughout  the  Oriental  Archipelago  ;  he  says,  "  The  Castor- 
oil  is  never,  I  think,  used  medicinally  by  the  Indian  Islanders,  but  is 
the  principal  material  used  in  lamps." 


FISHING  EAGLE.  229 

At  St.  Jago  the  Bird  of  Pharoah  (Percnopteris  leuco- 
cephalus)  not  only  consumes  offal  and  excrement,  but 
preys  on  lizards  and  locusts,  eternally  hovering  about 
in  a  vile  ignoble  way,  after  the  manner  of  the  Carrion- 
Crows.  Its  flight  is  very  heavy,  nor  does  it  ever  soar 
like  the  Eagle  or  the  Kite.  It  performs  the  part  of  an 
useful  scavenger  in  a  country  where  putrefaction  is  so 
rapid.  The  natives  of  the  Cape  de  Verds,  however,  do 
not  appear  to  hold  it  in  the  same  veneration  and  respect 
as  we  are  told  the  Egyptians  did  of  yore.  Another  great 
destroyer  of  the  innumerable  Grylli  that  swarm  here  is 
the  pretty  Dacelo  lagoensis,  a  species  of  Kingfisher,  a 
very  pretty  slim  species  of  Sylvia)  and  a  small  Hawk, 
very  much  resembling  in  plumage  the  Sparrow-Hawk. 

The  Eishing  Eagle  of  Africa  (Haliecetm  vocifer]  may 
occasionally  be  seen  hovering  about  these  islands.  Elastic 
and  buoyant,  this  agile  dweller  in  the  air  mounts  to 
soaring  heights,  scanning,  with  sharp  and  piercing  eye, 
the  motions  of  his  prey  below.  Energetic  in  his  move- 
ments, impetuous  in  his  appetites,  he  pounces  with  the 
velocity  of  a  meteor  on  the  object  of  his  wishes,  and, 
with  a  wild  and  savage  joy,  tears  it  to  pieces.  His  whole 
sense  of  existence  is  the  procuring  of  food,  and  for  this 
he  is  ever  on  the  alert,  ever  ready  to  combat,  to  ravage, 
and  destroy. 

Numbers  of  a  small,  black,  land  Salamander  are  found 
concealed  under  the  stones  among  the  sand,  and  huge 
Locusts  swarm  by  myriads. 

The  Tarentola  Delalandii,  a  singular  grey-coloured 
Gecko,  is  common  on  Quail  Island,  near  the  anchorage 


230  STORMY  PETREL. 

of  Porta  Praya.  It  is  a  dull,  sluggish,  and  retiring 
animal,  shrouding  its  uncouth  form  in  dark  holes  and 
obscure  corners  of  the  rocks.  It  is  nocturnal  in  its 
habits,  shunning  the  garish  light  of  day,  and  creeping 
forth  at  eve  to  seek  its  insect  food.  Although  repulsive 
in  its  aspect,  it  is  perfectly  harmless,  and,  like  all  its 
tribe,  has  the  power  of  climbing  perpendicular  surfaces 
by  its  broad  and  plaited  toes. 

On  the  7th  of  March  we  left  the  Cape  de  Verds ;  a 
sluggish  mist  covered  the  distant  mountains,  and  the 
sun,  which  looks  very  large  in  these  latitudes,  as  he  sank 
below  the  horizon,  appeared  to  have  burst,  and,  like 
some  gigantic  meteor,  to  have  poured  forth  all  its  fire  in 
one  stupendous  flame-coloured  fan,  or  gold  and  crimson 
tail  of  some  unheard-of  bird.  The  great  comet  was 
visible  during  the  night.  During  our  passage  across 
the  Indian  Ocean,  I  was  much  amused  in  observing  the 
mode  of  flight  of  the  Petrels.  These  wild  and  free-born 
denizens  of  the  deep,  seem  to  sport  in  all  the  conscious- 
ness of  liberty.  They  cleave  the  atmosphere  of  their 
boundless  home  on  rapid  wing,  soaring  aloft  with  the. 
lightness  of  a  feathery  cloud ;  they  skim  the  surface  of 
the  deep,  they  float  upon  its  bosom,  and  I  have  seen 
the  storm-loving  Petrel  (TJialassidroma  pelagicd],  that 
"wanderer  of  the  sea",  dive  beneath  the  waters  to 
secure  its  prey.  They  always  love  the  troubled  ocean, 
for  then  their  food  is  more  easily  procured,  and  when 
the  sky  is  lowering  and  the  scud  begins  to  rise,  when 
the  wind  blows  high  and  the  billows  are  crested  with 
foam,  the  Petrels  are  abroad. 


WHALE-BIRD  AND  DOLPHIN.  231 

The  species  differ  in  their  modes  of  flight :  the  Giant 
Petrel  (Procettaria  gigantea)  flies  in  a  wild  and  sweeping 
manner,  poising  himself,  and  often  remaining  motionless 
in  the  air  like  an  Eagle.  The  flight  of  the  Cape  Pigeon 
(P.  Capensis)  is  erratic,  and  neither  powerful  nor  rapid. 
There  is  one  species  as  large  as  a  Kestrel,  and  entirely 
of  a  sooty  black ;  it  has  long  powerful  wings,  and  a 
rapid  steady  flight,  like  the  wide  sweep  of  some  gigantic 
Swift ;  these  hunt  in  couples,  and  are  very  wild  and  shy. 
Another,  called  the  "Whale-bird"  by  the  seamen,  is 
solitary  in  his  habits,  and  his  sweep  across  the  ocean  is 
more  extensive  than  that  of  other  species.  This,  as  well 
as  P.  turtur  and  Forsteri,  describe  vast  circles  in  the  air, 
and  dart  suddenly  on  their  prey.  Another  wild  and 
sprightly  species  is  not  much  larger  than  a  Lark ;  erratic, 
wavering,  and  rapid  in  its  flight,  it  always  keeps  aloof  from 
the  ship,  and,  even  more  than  any  of  the  others,  appears 
to  delight  in  stormy  weather. 

During  our  passage  the  sailors  were  fortunate  enough 
to  catch  some  Dolphins,  and,  although  the  beauties  of 
this  fish  when  dying  have  been  so  often  expatiated  on, 
perhaps  the  following  note,  made  at  the  time,  may  not 
be  uninteresting,  for  I  fancy  that  in  no  two  Dolphins  do 
the  dying  colour-changes  follow  precisely  in  the  same 
order.  The  one  I  observed,  from  a  grass-green,  covered 
with  round  ultramarine  spots,  became  silvery,  and  the 
green  faded,  while  the  deep  blue  of  the  dorsal  fin,  and 
golden  green  of  the  back,  remained.  From  this,  it 
changed  to  a  burnished  brass  colour,  the  blue  spots 
vanished,  and  were  succeeded  by  an  azure  tinge  on  a 


232  CHANGE  OF  COLOUR. 

silvery  ground,  followed  by  a  dull,  opaque,  leaden  grey. 
One  poet  has  said, 

"  parting  day 

Dies  like  the  Dolphin,  whom  each  pang  imbues 
With  a  new  colour  as  it  gasps  away, 
The  last  still  loveliest,  till — 'tis  gone  and  all  is  grey." 

There  are  many  other  fish  that  change  colour  several 
times  before  they  die ;  I  have  seen  species  of  Pimelodus 
or  Cat-fish,  change  from  a  warm  and  glowing  smalt, 
during  the  last  few  pangs,  to  a  dull  leaden  hue,  losing, 
at  the  same  time,  the  delicate  pinky  tinge  of  the  sides 
and  abdomen.  The  common  Sucking-fish  (Echineis 
Eemora)  from  a  brown,  bright,  shining,  blackish  colour, 
changes,  even  in  the  water,  to  a  leaden  hue,  and,  as  it 
dies,  assumes  a  tancolour,  which  grows  paler  by  degrees 
until  it  fades  into  a  dirty  white. 

In  calms,  the  South  Atlantic  abounds  in  Acalephce, 
and  much  amusement  may  be  derived,  in  a  long  sea 
voyage,  from  the  observation  of  these  beautiful  organisms ; 
for  endless  are  the  moulds  in  which  prolific  Nature  has 
cast  them.  Some  are  shaped  like  a  mushroom,  others 
assume  the  form  of  a  riband,  others  are  globular,  while 
some  are  circular,  flat,  or  bell-shaped,  and  others  again 
resemble  a  bunch  of  berries.  Their  motions  are  generally 
tardy,  their  sensations  dull,  and  directed  entirely  to  the 
procuring  of  food.  They  often  float  without  any  apparent 
animation,  trusting  to  the  winds  and  waves  to  waft 
them  about,  and  to  carry  them  their  food.  Some  keep 
a  little  beneath  the  surface,  and  propel  themselves  by 
contracting  and  dilating  their  pellucid  discs,  while  others, 
as  the  Seroe,  have  a  rapid  rotatory  motion.  They  have 


JELLY  FISHES.  233 

been  termed  the  "  living  jellies  of  the  deep  ",  and  are 
endowed,  in  many  cases,  with  an  acrid  secretion,  which, 
irritating  the  skin,  has  also  caused  them  to  be  called 
"  Sea-nettles."  There  is  one  large  species  common  in  the 
Straits  of  Singapore,  dreaded  by  the  Malays,  on  account 
of  the  violence  of  this  power.  Dr.  Oxley  informed  me 
that  he  was  obliged  to  amputate  the  thumb  on  account 
of  the  violent  inflammation,  induced  by  this  poison,  in 
the  person  of  a  Malay  fisherman.*  In  colour,  perhaps, 
the  most  delicate  is  the  lovely  Velella,  with  its  pellucid 
crest,  its  green  transparent  body,  and  fringe  of  purple 
tentacles.  Specific  distinctions  have  been  taken  from 
the  form  of  the  crest,  as  in  V.  pyramidalis,  but  I  have 
noticed  this  part  rounded,  more  or  less  pointed,  and, 
in  some  cases,  even  lobed,  in  what  I  have  considered  the 
same  species. 

The  Velella  has  been  seen  as  far  north  as  40°,  covering 
a  large  surface  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  tinging  the 
water  for  many  miles.  I  have  seen  them  covering  the 
coasts  of  some  of  the  Islands  of  the  Meia-co-shima 
Group  by  myriads,  strewing  the  beach  for  miles  with 
their  delicate,  pellucid  skeletons.!  Sir  Edward  Belcher 

*  I  have  seen  Rhizostomata  off  the  Peninsula  of  Malacca  swimming 
by  in  large  troops,  comprising  many  thousands  of  individuals,  many 
of  which  measure  as  much  as  three  feet  in  diameter.  They  have  been 
found  to  weigh,  according  to  Peron  and  Lesueur,  as  much  as  from  fifty 
to  sixty  pounds.  The  same  naturalist,  speaking  of  these  animals,  ob- 
serves, that  "  they  seem  extremely  feeble,  but  fishes  of  large  size  are 
daily  their  prey." 

f  Professor  Owen,  in  his  nineth  Hunterian  Lecture,  for  1843,  ob- 
serves that  occasionally  some  of  the  singular  forms  of  AcalephcR  of  the 
tropical  seas  are  stranded  on  the  south-western  shores  of  England.  "  I 
have  picked  up  on  the  coast  of  Cornwall  the  little  Vddla,  which  had 


234  PORTUGUESE  MAN-OF-WAR. 

informs  me  that  he  has  attempted  to  reduce  them  to 
isinglass,  by  boiling,  but  that  they  appear  to  be  quite 
worthless  in  a  commercial  point  of  view. 

The  Physalia,  or  "  Portuguese  man-of-war ",  is  very 
delicately  tinted,  sometimes  white  and  pink,  and  some- 
times of  a  lovely  lilac,  with  a  pale  crimson  crest.  Byron 
has  termed  the  Nautilus  '•  the  Ocean  Mab,  the  Fairy  of 
the  Sea";  modern  science  has,  however,  dispelled  the 
poetic  illusion  of  "  oars  and  aerial  sails  ",  and  altered  its 
mode  of  progression  altogether.  The  phrase  of  the  poet 
will  more  particularly  apply  to  the  above-mentioned 
Acalepha,  which  rears  its  fragile  crest  above  the  waves  in 
the  calm  regions  of  the  tropics,  and  allows  the  gentle 
breeze  to  waft  it  on  its  course.* 

Among  the  numerous  varieties  of  Physalia  pelagica 
found  by  us  floating  on  the  surface  of  the  Indian  Ocean, 
was  one  taken  in  trawl,  of  a  form  so  peculiar,  and  of  a 
colour  so  distinct,  as  to  warrant  its  being  called  by  a 
different  specific  name,  although  the  form  of  the  bladder 
alone  is  not  sufficient  to  characterize  these  animals.  The 
body  of  this  specimen  was  of  a  delicate  transparent  blue, 
and  the  crest,  twisted  slightly  on  itself,  was  lilac,  blending 

been  wafted  thither,  unable  to  strike  its  characteristic  lateen  sail. 
There  also  I  have  seen  wrecked  a  fleet  of  the  Portuguese  men-of-war 
(Physalia),  which  had  been  buoyed  by  their  air-bladders  to  that  iron- 
bound  coast." 

*  I  observe  by  his  Hunterian  Lectures  that  the  same  idea  occurred 
to  the  mind  of  Professor  Owen.  Alluding  to  Velella,  he  says,  "  one 
of  the  genera,  Felella,  has  a  process  of  the  firm  internal  skeleton, 
arising  from  the  upper  surface  of  the  body-disc,  to  which  it  is  set  at 
the  same  angle  as  the  lateen-sail  of  the  Malay  coast ;  it  is  wafted 
along  by  the  action  of  the  wind  upon  this  process,  and  may  have  been 
mistaken  for  the  fabled  Cephalopodic  paper-sailor  (Argonauta)." 


SIMON'S  BAY.  235 

into  pink  towards  the  summit.  The  vesicle  was,  more- 
over, provided  with  three  horn-like  appendages,  one  curved 
like  an  Ammonite,  of  deep  Prussian-blue,  with  another  of 
a  smaller  size  projecting  from  it,  and  a  third,  of  a  green 
colour,  situated  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  the  vesicle. 
The  tentacles  and  ovaries  were  of  dark-indigo  colour. 

On  the  25th  of  April,  1843,  we  were  anchored  in 
Simon's  Bay.  As  you  double  the  Cape,  the  scenery 
looks  very  uninviting  to  the  eye  of  the  naturalist,  who 
views  it  for  the  first  time,  but  as  you  draw  nearer,  the 
mountains  grow  more  and  more  interesting.  The  wild 
and  naked  aspect  of  the  almost  savage  scenery  is  much 
improved  by  woody  gorges  or  chasms,  and  even  on  the 
brown  sides  of  the  mountains,  coloured  patches  soon 
appear  on  your  nearer  approach,  as  the  numerous  species 
of  heaths  and  composite  flowers  begin  to  be  recognized, 
and  now  and  then  some  picturesque  knoll,  crowned  with 
a  fantastic  tree,  will  interpose  its  form,  and  break  the 
monotonous  outline  of  the  landscape. 

During  our  stay  there,  the  deep  water  of  the  offing 
appeared  to  swarm  with  endless  varieties  of  the  "  finny 
drove  ",  and  the  hollows  in  the  rocks,  and  the  shallow 
ponds  along  the  sandy  shores,  were  full  of  interesting 
Mollusks,  and  curious  Crustaceans.  If  you  climb  the 
mountains,  in  some  of  the  woody  thickets  you  may 
chance  to  hear  the  beautiful  golden  Cuckoo,  uttering  at 
intervals  its  short,  sharp  note,  or  you  may  observe  large 
showy-looking  Shrikes,  darting  about,  busily  intent  on 
prey,  lively  Creepers,  clinging,  in  sportive  attitudes,  to 
the  over-hanging  boughs,  and  the  pretty  Wood -pecker 
( Dcndrobates  cjriscoccphalusj ,  climbing  up  and  down  the 


236  FERNS. 

boughs,  sounding,  with  his  bill,  the  rotten  portions  of 
the  tree,  for  there  he  knows  he  is  sure  to  find  choice 
morsels.  For  the  botanist,  there  are  many  objects  to 
attract  the  eye,  even  immediately  after  landing. 

The  Plumbago  Capensis  ornaments  every  cultivated 
patch  of  Land  at  Simon's  Town,  relieving,  by  its  lively 
blue  corollas,  the  sombre  hue  of  the  dry  and  arid  soil ; 
and  numerous  feathery  Acacias  spring  up  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  delicate,  graceful,  and  refreshing.  The  Mesem- 
bryanthemum  edule  covers  the  sterile  grounds,  and  adorns 
the  parched  and  sandy  earth  with  verdure,  where  no 
other  plant  will  grow;  and  the  bare  rocks  are  orna- 
mented with  moss,  and  variegated  with  a  thousand  diffe- 
rent Lichens.  The  Ferns  I  gathered  were  most  beautiful. 
Not  very  far  from  Simon's  Town,  there  is  a  wild  and 
rugged  chasm,  with  a  stream  tumbling  down  the  middle, 
rolling  hurriedly  in  its  headlong  course,  and  scattering  a 
refreshing  moisture  on  everything  around,  where  these 
delicate  and  lovely  Cryptogamia  grow  in  great  profusion. 
Here  the  minute  and  fragile  fronds  of  the  Hymenophyllum, 
the  curious  foliage  of  the  Pieris,  the  narrow-leaved 
Blechnum,  the  elegant  Adiantum,  and  a  rare  and  singular 
species  of  Asplenium,  either  with  the  fronds  laden  with 
sporules,  or  with  the  fructification  pretty  far  advanced, 
are  seen  springing  from  the  damp  surface  of  the  rocks,  or 
waving  gracefully  from  the  fissures,  like  so  many  emerald 
plumes.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town,  the 
silvery  catkins  of  Cunonia  Capensis  glitter  in  the  sun- 
beams, and  the  huge  downy  blossoms  of  the  Silver  tree 
(Protect  argented)  attract  numerous  sun-birds  and  honey- 
suckers.  The  rich  orange  bells  of  the  Leonotus  Leonora, 


FLOWERING  PLANTS.  237 

the  showy  flowers  of  a  hundred  Ericacece  (the  pride 
of  the  colony)  and  the  diversified  forms  of  the  ever- 
changing  Protects,  mingled  with  extraordinary  looking 
Staphelias,  Myrtles,  Diosmce,  Gladioli,  and  Salvias,  form 
together  a  rich  and  varied  feast  for  the  florist,  and  to  the 
botanist,  a  collection  of  a  mixed  and  most  singularly 
beautiful  description.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Table 
Mountain,  and  for  some  considerable  distance  up  its 
flanks,  the  character  of  the  vegetation  is  very  analogous 
to  that  already  noticed.  Magnificent  Acacias,  and  majestic 
Aloes,  grow  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  splendid  con- 
dition, elevating  their  showy  forms  far  above  the  prickly 
shrubs,  and  lowlier  plants  that  grow  around  them.  The 
aromatic  Diosma,  the  juice  of  which  the  aboriginal  Hot- 
tentots mingle  with  the  grease  with  which  they  anoint 
their  bodies,  here  grows  in  rich  abundance,  scenting  the 
very  sod  beneath  the  feet ;  and  many  a  gay  Lobelia  gems 
the  earth  around.*  Whole  tracts  are  covered  with  luxu- 
riant Proteaceous  plants,  Apocynums,  Asclepiadacea,  Sta- 
pelece,  Pelargoniums,  in  full  flower,  mixed  with  fantastic 
Euphorbias,  gay  Heaths,  succulent  Crassulaceous  plants, 
Arums,  and  Lilies,  giving  the  dry  heathy  nature  of  the 
scenery  a  peculiar  charm,  quite  unexpected  in  such  an 
apparent  waste  and  desolate  expanse.  Nor  must  nume- 

*  Among  the  botanical  curiosities  of  the  Cape  is  the  long-spined 
Euphorbia  heptayona,  with  the  milk  of  which  the  Kaffirs  poison  their 
arrows;  the  Dill  (Anethum  graveolen&)  is  not  uncommon;  and  the 
pretty-looking  Marigold  (Calendula  pluvialis),  which  indicates  fine 
weather,  by  opening  its  flowers  like  the  '  Shepherd's  weather-glass  ', 
or  scarlet  Pimpernel  (Anayallis  arvens'ui)  of  Europe,  may  also  be  men- 
tioned, although  volumes  have  been  written  on  the  vegetation  of  the 
Cape. 


238  HONEY-SUCKERS. 

rous  delicate  and  ornamental  Iridacea,  and  the  fantastic 
blossoms  of  the  Orchis  tribe  be  passed  over  in  silence, 
for  various  are  the  singular  shapes  that  cross  the  path  in 
traversing  these  barren  plains  of  Africa. 

The  sandy  parts  from  Simon's  Town  to  the  Table 
Mountain,  are  covered  with  the  succulent  leaves  of  the 
Fig-Marigold,  which  gaily  disports  its  yellow  blossoms  in 
every  direction,  while  Euphorbias,  of  anomalous  forms, 
spring  up  around,  startling  the  eye  with  the  strange 
fantastic  shapes  they  almost  invariably  assume.  In  short, 
the  way  of  the  traveller  is  cheered  at  every  step  by 
strange  and  brilliant  flowers,  and  curious  plants  that  give 
an  air  of  pleasing  variety  to  the  otherwise  rude  wilder- 
ness of  the  Cape. 

Among  the  most  interesting  objects  that  attract  the 
eye  of  the  naturalist,  during  his  excursions  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Cape,  none  are  more  likely  to  interest  him  than 
the  Honey-suckers  and  the  Cormorants. 

The  Nectarinite,  or  Honey-suckers,  do  not  differ 
materially  in  their  habits  from  the  Fairy-like  Sun-birds, 
except  in  clinging  to  boughs  and  stems,  more  after  the 
manner  of  the  Cert/iice.  They  stoop  their  heads,  and 
insert  their  long  and  narrow  beaks  into  the  tubular 
corollas,  to  search  for  the  honey  and  insects  of  the 
nectaries.  From  analyses  of  the  contents  of  their 
stomachs,  I  ascertained  that  their  food  is  always  insects 
and  honey.  They  are  more  homely  and  unpretending  in 
their  feathery  garb,  and  want  the  vivacity  and  dazzling 
aspect  of  their  fellow-plunderers,  the  Cinnyrides. 

The  Cormorant  forms  quite  a  peculiar  feature  in  the 
scenery  of  the  Cape  coast.  Seated  on  the  rocks,  with 


CORMORANTS.  239 

sundry  Divers  and  Penguins,  upright,  motionless,  and 
solemn,  they  remind  you  of  some  magisterial  assembly 
in  their  sable  robes,  met  together  in  grave  and  earnest 
conclave.  The  Cormorant  of  the  Gape  lays  its  eggs  in 
holes,  among  the  rocks,  and  the  insatiate  young  ones, 
although  constantly  gorged  by  their  industrious  fisher- 
parents,  yet  are  never  satisfied,  but  with  open  beak, 
eager  eye,  and  out-stretched  neck,  they  flap  their  formless 
wings,  and  appear  to  be  continually  crying  out  "  more, 
more  "  ! 

The  Pishing  Cormorants  of  the  Cape  (Phalacrocorax 
Africanus)  usually  unite  to  form  large  fishing  parties. 
They  wind  their  way,  in  single  file,  starting  from  the 
rocks  along  the  shore,  then  swimming  in  the  tranquil 
waters  of  the  bays,  invariably  led  on  by  some  experienced 
and  sagacious  old  admiral,  they  commence  their  fishing. 
When  their  pilot  spies  a  shoal  of  fish  he  suddenly  makes 
a  vault  out  of  the  water,  arching  his  neck,  bending  his 
body,  and  drawing  up  his  legs,  when  diving  headlong 
down,  he  is  followed  immediately  by  all  his  anxious  ad- 
herents, who  perform  their  somersets  in  precisely  the 
same  manner.  The  flotilla  remains  submerged  some  little 
time,  when  it  rises  once  more  to  the  surface,  and  the 
feathered  fishers  again  renew  their  diving  and  plunging 
piscatory  evolutions.  During  short  rambles  in  the  vici- 
nity of  the  Cape,  many  interesting  forms  may  be  ob- 
tained by  the  naturalist.  Among  others  collected  by  us 
was  the  Agama  liispida,  a  hideously  ugly  Lizard,  sluggish 
in  its  habits,  and  having  a  very  broad  body,  covered 
with  spines,  a  very  short  tail,  and,  as  customary  more 
or  less  with  African  animals,  coloured  with  that  tint 


240  LIZARDS  AND  TORTOISES. 

which  Schlegel  emphatically  calls  the  "colour  of  the 
desert."  I  have  seen  a  variety  of  this  Agama  with  the 
skin  perfectly  smooth,  and  even  the  tail  almost  entirely 
devoid  of  spines.  A  friend  succeeded  in  killing  a  very 
large  specimen  of  the  Naja  nivea,  the  bite  of  which  is 
considered  very  deadly  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Cape ; 
Tortoises  (I  believe  Testuda  geometrica  and  T.  angulatd] 
may  be  procured,  at  certain  seasons,  in  any  numbers,  by 
taking  the  trouble  to  climb  the  mountains.  I  have  fre- 
quently picked  them  up  in  my  walks,  and  our  Surgeon, 
Dr.  Mahon,  on  the  roadside  from  Simon's  Town  to  Cape 
Town,  made  captive  a  very  large  flat-backed  Water- 
Tortoise  (Emys  galeatd)  which  was  fishing  in  a  pool.  It 
is  rather  remarkable  that  this  same  Tortoise  is  the  only 
one,  out  of  several  dozens  of  Tortoises  brought  from  the 
Cape,  now  alive  in  England,  although  from  the  date  of 
his  capture  to  the  present,  it  has  been  kept  almost 
entirely  from  the  water. 

Notwithstanding  the  apparently  revolting  smell  and 
disgusting  nature  of  Cockroaches,  many  animals,  besides 
the  little  Otocyon  Lalandii,  are  passionately  fond  of  them. 
Several  Graculi  religiosi  on  board  our  ship  were  in  the 
habit  of  hopping  about  the  lower  deck,  greedily  pur- 
suing and  devouring  them.  A  small  monkey  took,  like- 
wise, great  delight  in  seizing  and  masticating  them,  with 
much  gusto ;  to  say  nothing  of  our  peacocks,  which  were 
passionately  addicted  to  their  consumption.  In  England, 
as  is  well  known,  the  Hedge-hog  is  kept  for  the  purpose 
of  thinning  their  numbers. 

The  Sandmole  (Bathyergus  maritimus)  causes  great 
havock  in  the  gardens,  in  the  vicinity  of  Simon's  Town, 


SAND-MOLE.  241 

undermining  the  parterres,  and  consuming  the  roots  of 
the  flowers.  I  saw  several  unfortunates  just  dug  out  of 
their  burrows  by  a  little  negro  boy,  who  informed  me 
that  he  was  employed  by  a  certain  old  gentleman,  owner 
of  a  garden  in  the  neighbourhood,  to  destroy  these  depre- 
dators at  so  much  per  head.  Although  called  Zandmott 
by  the  colonists,  it  is  a  true  Rodent,  but  lives  under 
ground,  and  raises  hillocks  like  the  Mole  of  Europe,  or 
the  Tucotuco  (Ctenomys  Brasiliensis}  of  South  America. 
Like  that  little  animal,  also,  it  renders  the  ground  in 
some  parts,  unsafe  for  horses,  owing  to  the  long  loose 
subterranean  galleries  it  forms  in  the  sand.  Although 
furnished  with  very  minute  eyes,  the  Tucotuco  is  not  ab- 
solutely blind,  as  Darwin  affirms  it  to  be.  They  very  soon 
die  in  captivity,  like  the  common  Mole,  which  I  could 
never  succeed  in  keeping  alive  for  any  length  of  time. 
The  skeleton  of  the  Bathyergits  reminds  one  somewhat  of 
that  gigantic  extinct  quadruped  the  Megatherium,  but 
of  course  on  a  diminutive  scale. 

A  large  species  of  Ateuchm,  a  kind  of  Beetle,  is  com- 
mon in  the  sandy  roads  about  the  Cape.  You  will  see  it, 
frequently,  like  Sisyphus,  rolling  a  huge  round  ball  of 
dung  up  a  bank,  by  placing  its  hind  legs  against  it,  and 
moving  backwards.  It  frequently  happens,  that  the  ball 
which  contains  the  eggs  rolls  to  the  bottom,  when  the 
poor  patient  Beetle  begins  its  toilsome  labour  over  again. 

"  adverse  nixaiitem  trudere  monte 


Saxum ;  quod  tamen  a  summo  jam  vertice  rursum 
Volvitur,  et  plani  raptim  petit  aequora  campi."  * 

*  Lucret.  lib.  iii.  ver.  1013. 
VOL.  II.  R 


242  SACRED  BEETLE. 

The  Ateuchus  jffigyptiorum,  the  Beetle  held  sacred,  and 
so  often  seen  depicted  in  the  hieroglyphics,  and  carved 
on  the  monuments,  of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  has  the 
same  habit  of  enclosing  its  eggs  in  large  round  masses 
of  excrement,  and  rolling  them  along  with  its  hinder  legs 
for  the  purpose  of  burying  them  in  the  ground. 

The  Cape,  although  very  well  explored  by  travellers,  yet 
appeared  to  me  to  offer  fine  opportunities  to  the  Entomo- 
logist, so  great  seemed  the  variety  of  insect-forms  every- 
where encountered.  The  large  white  spathas  of  the  Arum, 
which  grows  abundantly  in  the  vicinity  of  Simon's  Town, 
usually  have  specimens  of  Anisonyx,  and  other  Glaphy- 
ridce,  feeding  on  the  spadix,  and  assisting  the  process  of 
impregnation  by  throwing  about  the  pollen  as  they  move 
their  bodies,  which,  for  this  purpose,  are  covered  with 
long  hairs.  Feeding  on  the  Protect  argentea,  or  Wittle- 
broom,  the  splendid  plant  which  is  commonly  used  as 
fire-wood  at  the  Cape,  I  have  found  species  of  Hopliae, 
Dic/ieli,  and  other  Melolonthida,  which  apparently  seem 
to  perform  the  same  kind  office  of  disseminating  the 
pollen  from  flower  to  flower.  Smaller  species  are  found 
imbedded,  by  dozens,  in  the  heads  of  the  composite 
flowers,  in  company  with  a  single  Cetonia  pubescens. 

On  the  6th  of  May  we  left  Simon's  Town  for  Singa- 
pore, and  after  a  somewhat  tempestuous  passage  across 
the  Indian  Ocean,  arrived  at  Welcome  Bay,  in  the  Straits 
of  Sunda,  on  the  10th  of  June.  There  are  certain 
phenomena  to  be  observed,  and  animals  to  be  studied, 
however,  even  when  traversing  the  high  seas,  with  no 
land  in  sight.  As,  for  example,  when  the  wide  ocean 
heaves  languidly  in  its  mighty  bed,  and,  lost  in  gorgeous 


CREPUSCULAR  ANIMALS.  243 

hues,  the  dull  red  disc  of  the  setting  suu  sinks  slowly 
down  beneath  the  horizon,  the  Noddy  and  the  Frigate 
Pelican,  those  "  feathered  fishers  ",  seek  a  resting-place 
for  the  night  •  the  "  Tropic  bird  wheels  rockward  to  his 
nest";  the  Petrels  are  no  longer  seen,  the  ghost-like 
Albatross  comes  sweeping  by,  the  Dolphins  cease  to 
bound,  and  the  Acalephce,  and  other  fragile  beings  of  the 
deep,  return  to  unknown  solitudes.  But  the  lovely 
lanthina,  and  the  fairy-like  PJiysalia,  do  not  gather  in 
their  floats,  but,  in  company  with  the  giddy  Hyalaea, 
now  sport  upon  the  surface ;  the  Creseis  and  Cleodora, 
those  living  hairs  of  glass,  that  glitter  in  the  moon-beam, 
are  more  numerous  than  in  the  day,  and  the  Argonauta, 
Carinaria,  and  Atlanta,  take  their  pleasure  on  the  surface 
of  the  sea. 

The  Pteropods  are  little  active  and  energetic  Mollusks, 
common  in  almost  every  sea.  They  are  the  very  butter- 
flies of  the  deep,  and,  from  their  extreme  vivacity,  would 
appear  to  be  possessed  of  acute  sensibilities.  Insatiate 
and  greedy,  they  are  ever  on  the  move,  spinning,  diving, 
and  whirling  in  every  direction.  The  Hyalcea  tridentata 
reminds  one  forcibly  of  the  erratic  diving  and  plunging 
evolutions  of  the  Dyticus,  and  Hydrophilm  of  the  ponds 
of  Europe.  The  Pneumodermon,  when  touched  by  a 
foreign  body,  feigns  death,  rolling  itself  up  in  a  ball,  like 
an  Armadillo,  or  Glomeris.  The  Cleodora  Balantium, 
one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  tribe,  is  much  steadier  in 
its  mode  of  progression,  than  Ilyalcea,  Creseis,  or  even 
Cuvieria,  owing,  probably,  to  the  comparative  weakness 
and  small  size  of  the  alar  membranous  expansions.  This 
species,  as  well  as  the  Cleodora  cuspidata,  when  alive  in 

R2 


244  CRUSTACEA. 

the  water,  is  perfectly  pellucid,  although  it  almost  in- 
variably becomes  semi-opaque  when  dry.  Among  the 
species,  most  numerous  in  individuals,  that  commence 
their  lively  evolutions  .towards  the  decline  of  day,  on  the 
calm  bosom  of  the  ocean,  may  be  mentioned  Hyalaa 
longirostra,  of  Leseur,  and  the  beautiful  and  delicate 
Hyalaa  trispinosa,  of  the  same  naturalist. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  1843,  we  slowly  sailed  through 
the  Sunda  Straits,  the  tranquil  waters  of  which  were 
crowded  with  myriads  of  diaphanous  Crustacea,  of  the 
genera  Erichthw,  Phronima,  Stenosoma,  Alima,  Nerocila, 
Idotea,  Spheroma,  and  others,  creatures  ever  sparkling 
beneath  the  wave,  and  glittering,  as  their  glassy  shields 
reflect  the  rays  of  the  sun.  They  swim  leisurely  in  dense 
strata  near  the  surface,  sinking,  however,  when  the  sea  is 
at  all  ruffled.  M.  Risso  says,  "  they  empty  the  pellucid 
discs  of  certain  Acaleplice  to  serve  them  as  canoes," 
which  curious  circumstance  I  have  been  several  times 
able  to  confirm.  These  small  isopodous,  horny,  and 
generally-transparent  Crustaceans,  do  not  swim  like  the 
Crangon,  with  the  belly  upwards,  and  by  sudden  jerks 
backwards,  but  propel  themselves  steadily  onwards  by 
repeated  contractions  of  the  post-abdomen,  and  natatory 
caudal  appendages.  They  are  exceedingly  predatory  and 
voracious,  occasionally  seizing  Medusa  of  greater  bulk 
than  themselves,  holding  them  in  then-  prehensile  jaw- 
feet,  and  tearing  them  in  pieces  with  their  mandibles. 

On  these  occasions,  one  must  naturally  be  impressed 
with  the  astonishing  fecundity  and  diversity  of  form 
exhibited  throughout  creation.  Each  portion  of  the 
large  masses  of  floating  weed  consists,  when  carefully 


SEA-SPIDERS.  245 

examined,  of  a  little  densely-populated  world,  being 
crowded  with  living  beings,  all  active  and  full  of  bustling 
animation ;  strange-shaped  little  fishes,  bright  sea-slugs, 
tiny  shells  of  the  Nautilus  tribe,  grotesque  sea-spiders, 
and  whole  gangs  of  odd  crabs,  Medmte,  and  transparent 
shrimps.  The  Podosomatous  forms  of  spider-like  Crus- 
taceans are  very  slow  and  languid  in  their  progression, 
moving  their  slender  articulations  but  feebly,  seemingly 
as  if  encumbered  by  their  inordinate  length.  They  hide 
in  hollow  sponges,  or  the  anfractuosities  of  madrepores 
and  corallines,  and  some  I  have  seen  take  up  their  abode 
among  the  spines  of  large  Cidares  and  Echini.  Their 
habits,  are  slow,  sly,  cautious  and  predatory.  We  found 
them  in  large  numbers  in  the  sea  of  Mindoro  in  twenty 
fathoms,  and  sandy  bottom,  entangled  in  huge  bunches 
of  pinnatiferous  Keratophytes. 

In  the  Straits  of  Sunda,  we  obtained  by  the  dredge 
several  fine  specimens  of  the  beautiful  Galathea  elcgans 
of  White.  It  is  very  active  in  its  movements,  darting 
backwards  by  sudden  powerful  jerks,  snapping  its  chelae 
quickly  together,  and  producing  a  clicking  noise.  When 
swimming,  the  post-abdomen  is  first  bent  under  the 
body,  and  again  violently  forced  backwards.  In  the 
recent  state,  the  body  of  the  common  variety  is  yellow, 
with  three  dark-red  bands.  The  post-abdomen  is  pink. 
The  chelae  are  bright  pink,  and  finely  marked  with 
two  series  of  dark-brown  irregular  spots.  The  legs 
are  pink,  with  a  dark  stripe  on  the  femur,  and  a  brown 
transverse  band  on  the  penultimate  joint.  The  under 
surface  is  flesh  colour  with  two  longitudinal  stripes  on 
the  breast ;  frontal  spine  orange.  Near  the  same  spot  a 


246  PLANTAIN  SQUIRREL. 

.specimen  of  that  very  rare  and  remarkable  Crustacean, 
the  Tlos  muriger,  of  White,  was  dredged  at  a  depth  of 
ten  fathoms,  associated  with  specimens  of  other  crabs, 
chiefly  of  the  genera  Leucosia  and  Pkilyra.  It  is  as 
inert  and  feeble  in  its  progressive  movements  as  Calappa 
or  Cryptopodia. 

While  lying  in  Welcome  Bay,  in  Java,  I  obtained  from 
one  of  the  Javanese,  who  thronged  about  us  in  their 
canoes,  a  very  pretty  specimen  of  Squirrel,  and  as  I  had 
it  some  time  in  my  possession,  for  the  purpose  of  ob- 
serving its  habits,  a  brief  account  of  this  little  quadruped 
may  not  prove  uninteresting. 

The  Sciurus  bilineatm,  or  Plantain  Squirrel,  is  con- 
stantly kept  by  the  Javanese  as  a  pet.  One  I  had  in  rny 
possession  was  an  amusing  little  animal,  full  of  frolic,  and 
playful  as  a  kitten.  He  never  carried  his  tail  over  his 
back,  like  the  greater  number  of  his  consimilars,  but  would 
trail  it  gracefully  along  the  ground.  When  angry,  he 
would  dilate  this  ornamental  appendage,  and  bristle  up 
the  hairs,  like  an  irritated  cat.  His  natural  cry  was  a 
weak  chirping  sound,  but  when  teased  beyond  his  powers 
of  endurance,  he  would  make  a  sharp,  low,  and  passionate 
noise.  He  seemed  to  court  caresses,  and  received  them 
with  pleasure.  His  food  consisted  of  Bananas  and 
Cocoa-nuts,  which  he  would  usually  nibble  like  a  rat, 
though  sometimes  he  would  place  it  between  his  paws. 
He  was  a  remarkably  cleanly  little  creature,  continually 
dressing  his  fur  in  the  manner  of  the  FclintE.  When  he 
slept,  he  rolled  himself  up  in  a  ball  like  the  Dormouse, 
with  his  tail  encircling  his  body.  Always  active  and 
blithe,  he  would  sometimes  perform  feats  of  extraordinary 


WALKING-LEAP  INSECT.  247 

agility,  bounding  to  great  distances,  and  clinging  to  every 
object  within  his  reach. 

The  only  specimen  of  Phyttium,  or  Walking-leaf  insect, 
whose  habits  I  have  had  an  opportunity  of  observing, 
was  given  me  by  the  Resident  of  Anjer,  together  with 
some  young  Guava  plants,  on  the  foliage  of  which  it  sub- 
sists. It  was  very  inactive  during  the  day,  hanging 
suspended  by  its  fore-feet  to  the  leaves  of  the  Guava, 
but  on  the  approach  of  night,  it  would  walk  about  with 
an  undulating  motion  of  the  body,  or  hanging  suspended, 
as  during  the  day,  would  rapidly  vibrate  its  leaf-like 
wings,  in  a  tremulous  manner.  On  two  occasions  it 
took  short  flights,  but  soon  fell  to  the  ground  as  if  ex- 
hausted. It  feeds  voraciously  as  evening  approaches, 
biting  out  large  semi-circular  bits  from  the  edges  of  the 
leaves.  This  insect,  which  was  a  female,  dropped  an  egg 
every  night  for  some  time.  The  egg  is  in  the  form  of  an 
elongated,  pentagonal  cylinder,  with  the  angles  winged, 
and,  like  the  eggs  of  other  Phasmida,  provided  with  an 
operculum  at  one  end.  The  eggs  are  white  on  their  first 
emission  from  the  body  of  the  mother,  but  afterwards 
become  darker  and  darker  until  they  eventually  assume 
a  brownish-black  colour.  The  ova  were  retained  in  the 
ovipositor  sometimes  for  half  a  day,  as  are  those  of  the 
large  Blatta,  that  common  nuisance  on  board  ship.  The 
Phyttium,  whose  habits  are  alluded  to  above,  is  most 
probably  a  new  species,  and  is  in  the  possession  of 
Sir  Edward  Belcher. 

At  Anjer  I  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  the 
animal  of  a  very  large  and  handsome  species  of  Margi- 
nalia. The  Marginella  are  quicker  and  more  lively  in 


248  MARGINELLA. 

their  movements  than  Cypraa,  crawling  pretty  briskly, 
and  moving  their  tentacles  in  various  directions.  They 
travel  much  faster  than  a  snail.  The  two  dilated  anterior 
angles  of  the  foot  appear  to  be  endowed  with  acute  sen- 
sation, the  animal  making  use  of  them  as  feelers.  Many 
are  of  the  most  beautiful,  and  brilliant  colours ;  a  pale, 
semi-transparent,  pinkish-yellow  mantle,  with  a  range  of 
semi-elliptic  crimson  spots  around  the  thin  free  edge,  and 
the  remainder  covered  with  vertically  radiating,  linear 
spots,  and  short  waved  lines  of  the  same  colour;  the 
foot,  also  of  a  yellowish  delicate  pink,  is  marbled  all  over 
with  the  deepest  and  richest  crimson,  and  the  same  with 
the  siphon.  The  tentacles  are  yellowish,  with  a  row  of 
marbled  crimson  spots.  The  eyes  are  black,  and  very 
minute.  The  animal  of  the  species  above  described,  when 
roughly  handled,  retracted  itself  entirely  into  the  shell. 
It  was  dredged  up  in  three  fathoms  water,  sandy  bottom, 
not  far  from  Anjer,  in  Java. 

Another  species  of  Marginella,  from  the  east  coast 
of  Africa,  is  similar  to  the  former,  but  the  foot  is  rather 
more  expanded  and  more  rounded  behind.  The  left  side 
of  the  mantle  is  rather  more  produced  over  the  body  of 
the  shell  than  the  right.  The  ends  of  the  tentacula,  and 
siphon,  in  this  species,  are  yellow,  and  the  basal  parts 
streaked  with  carmine.  A  third  species  from  Unsang, 
east  coast  of  Borneo,  also  taken  with  the  dredge,  was  of  a 
light-brown  colour,  with  burnt  sienna  around  the  margin 
of  the  mantle. 

I  may,  here,  perhaps,  introduce  a  brief  notice  of  the 
habits  of  the  Carrier-Trochus,  or  Phorus,  whose  history,  at 
present,  is  so  little  known  ;  on  our  passage  from  Singapore 


CARRIER-TROCHUS.  249 

to  Java,  numerous  specimens  were  obtained  every  time 
the  dredge  was  used. 

The  Phori  are  very  numerous  in  the  China  and  Java 
Seas,  living  in  from  fifteeen  to  thirty  fathoms  water,  and 
generally  preferring  a  bottom  composed  of  the  detritus 
of  dead  shells  and  sand,  mixed  with  mud.  I  have 
described  the  animal,  for  the  first  time,  in  the  '  Annals 
and  Magazine  of  Natural  History.'  As  a  curious  adapta- 
tion of  means  to  answer  a  certain  purpose,  the  mode  of 
progression  of  these  singular  Mollusks  is  peculiar,  and  de- 
serving of  notice.  They  crawl  like  a  tortoise,  by  lifting 
and  throwing  forward  the  shell,  with  the  tentacles 
stretched  out,  the  proboscis  bent  down  and  the  operculum 
trailing  behind.  As  they  invariably  inhabit  places  where 
the  surface  is  rough,  and  would  not  admit  of  a  gliding 
motion,  nature  has  ordained  that  they  should  progress  by 
a  succession  of  small  jumps,  or  tumbling  evolutions.  In 
the  shortness  of  the  foot,  long  annulated  proboscis,  and 
cylindrical  body,  these  Mollusks  resemble  somewhat  those 
of  Imperator,  but  the  sessile  eyes,  divided  foot,  and 
nature  of  the  operculum,  render  them  a  perfectly  distinct 
family.  In  the  operculum  being  partially  free,  they  ap- 
proximate to  Solarium,  whilst  the  short  divided  foot, 
cylindric  body,  and  long  extensile  trunk,  reminds  one  of 
the  animal  of  lanthina.  They  are  small  for  the  size  of 

v 

the  shell,  and  have  much  the  general  appearance  of  the 
animal  of  Strombus,  like  which  they  appear  to  walk,  but 
their  eyes  are  sessile.  In  order  to  enable  them  to  escape 
from  their  enemies,  nature  has  instructed  them  to  cover 
their  shells  with  the  same  materials  as  those  of  the  banks 
which  they  inhabit.  Sometimes  for  this  purpose  they 


250  STILIFER. 

select  sand,  often  small  stones,  and  more  frequently  the 
debris  of  dead  shells,  belonging  to  other  genera.  The 
TJielidomus,  which  might  be  considered  as  the  fresh-water 
analogue  of  Phorus,  has,  I  believe,  been  ascertained  to 
be  formed  by  the  larvae  of  an  insect,  thus  depriving 
Mr.  Swainson  of  a  favourite  type  among  Mollusca.  The 
animals  of  Phorus  are  of  a  dull,  opaque-white  colour,  the 
eyes  large,  and  black,  and  the  proboscis  pinkish.  In 
P.  onustus  of  Reeve,  the  end  of  the  proboscis  is  yellow,  and 
the  inferior  surface  pink.  The  operculum  is  horny,  soft, 
and  flexible,  with  concentric  and  radiating  fibres  covered 
with  ridges,  formed  by  the  fibres  being  elevated,  one 
above  the  other,  in  succession. 

Among  other  peculiarities  in  the  habits  of  Mollusca, 
perhaps  one  of  the  most  striking  is  the  case  of  Stilifer, 
a  little  parasite  that  lives  upon  the  juices  of,  and  takes 
up  its  abode  in,  the  coriaceous  integument  of  Star-fishes. 
Having,  by  means  of  its  long,  narrow,  and  slender  foot, 
insinuated  itself  among  the  sutures  of  the  armour  the 
Asterias  is  provided  with,  it  forms  a  snug  nest  in  the  soft 
parts,  where  it  remains  imbedded,  with  the  apex  of  the 
spire  just  protuding.  When  placed  in  a  watch-glass, 
under  the  microscope,  I  observed  that  it  does  not  appear 
to  be  possessed  of  the  power  of  locomotion,  but  that  it 
extrudes  its  foot  to  its  greatest  extent,  and  makes  use  of 
it  as  an  exploring  organ,  moving  it  about  in  all  directions. 


251 


CHAPTER  II. 

BOUNEO. 

Arrive  at  Sarawak  —  Gigantic  Orthoptera  —  Remarkable  Insects  — 
Curious  habit  of  a  Beetle — Prevalence  of  certain  tribes  of  Insects 
— Butterflies — Insects  used  as  Ornaments — A  splendid  Glow- 
worm— Instincts  of  Spiders — Singular  Forms  of — Habits  of — 
The  Close-eyed  Gudgeon  —  The  Fighting-fish  of  Siam  —  The 
Organ-fish — Curious  Blenny — Thunder  Storm — Tree  struck  by 
Lightning — A  Man  killed — The  Crocodile — Nondescript  Plant — 
Habits  of  the  Musang — The  Slow-paced  Lemur — The  Wou-Wou 
The  Flying  Fox — The  Pitcher  Plant — Forest  Scenery — Exuberant 
Vegetation — Aspect  of  the  Woods  by  Day — Their  appearance  at 
Eve — Nocturnal  chorus  of  Animals  —  Night  Alarms — Gigantic 
Lizard — Beautiful  Tree-Snake — Enormous  Cobra — Capture  of  a 
Python — Adventure  with  a  Snake  —  Changeable  Lizard  —  The 
'  Toke  '—The  Chichak— The  Grass  Lizard— The  Bingkaron— 
The  Fringed  Gecko — The  Flying  Dragon. 

FROM  the  19th  to  the  20th  of  June  we  remained  at 
Singapore,  but  as  we  made  that  busy  Emporium  of  the 
East  a  recruiting  port  on  four  separate  occasions,  I  shall, 
at  present,  refrain  from  offering  any  remarks  on  the 
natural  history  of  that  important  little  island,  nor  need 
I  here  detail  our  proceedings  in  Borneo,  nor  expatiate  on 
the  disaster  that  there  awaited  our  good  ship,  as  all  that 


252  NEW  GRASSHOPPER. 

has  already  received  ample  justice  in  the  Narrative  of 
Sir  Edward  Belcher.  The  following  remarks  are  the 
result  of  my  impressions  of  scenery,  and  observation  of 
various  forms  of  animated  nature,  with  which  I  became 
acquainted  during  the  period  of  the  detention  of  the  ship 
at  Sarawak. 

In  the  vast  forests  of  the  interior  of  Borneo,  there  are 
found  enormous  Orthopterous  insects,  huge  Grasshoppers, 
as  large  or  larger  than  sparrows,  of  inert  and  somewhat 
inactive  habits,  which  hop  feebly  among  the  undergrowth, 
in  damp,  dark,  shady  places.  A  specimen,  presented  to 
Sir  Edward  Belcher  by  Mr.  Brooke,  at  Sarawak,  was  of 
this  nature.  A  giant  in  size,  it  measured  more  than  four 
inches  in  length ;  the  leaping  members  not  being  well 
developed,  the  antennae  filiform  and  of  great  length,  and 
the  colour  entirely  of  a  beautiful  delicate  grass-green. 
Unfortunately,  this  magnificent  insect  was  lost,  with  very 
many  other  interesting  specimens,  during  the  disaster 
of  the  ship  in  the  river.  A  drawing,  which  I  made 
before  the  occurrence  of  the  accident,  shows  it  to  belong 
to  an  apparently  new  genus,  placed  somewhere  between 
Steirodon  and  Phyttoptera,  and,  should  it  eventually  prove 
such,  I  would  suggest  to  its  fortunate  re-discoverer,  that 
it  should  be  named  Megalacris  Brookei,  in  honour  of  the 
philanthropic  and  talented  Rajah  of  Sarawak,  who  first 
procured  it  from  Dyaks,  who  brought  it  from  the  interior 
of  the  island.  Orthopterous  insects  swarm  in  many 
parts  of  Borneo,  and  among  others  which  I  have  ob- 
served may  be  mentioned,  as  being  of  especial  interest,  a 
Gryttacris  with  dark  chesnut  bands  on  the  elytra,  and  an 
orange  body ;  a  new  and  singular  Gryttacris  covered  all 


VARIOUS  INSECTS.  253 

over  with  a  velvety  coat,  like  the  Mole-cricket ;  an  elegant 
Phyttoptera,  with  bright,  yellowish-green,  semi-pellucid 
wings,  and  the  head  and  thorax  covered  with  small, 
raised  pustules ;  a  golden-brown  Acheta,  a  very  pretty, 
lively  insect  which  takes  prodigious  leaps;  a  singular 
Cyphocrania,  with  the  back  of  the  head  produced  into  a 
horn,  and  long  reticulated,  semi-opaque,  brown  wings ; 
and  a  new  species  of  Blepharis,  an  insect  apparently 
made  up  of  so  many  withered  leaves,  which  crawls  very 
slowly  among  the  foliage  of  the  low  trees,  and  takes 
short  feeble  flights  like  an  Empusa.  The  chief  use  of 
the  Geotrupida,  and  other  coprophagous  Beetles,  in  tro- 
pical countries,  would  seem  to  be  not  so  much  to  remove 
excrementitious  matter  from  the  surface  of  the  earth,  as 
to  spread  it  abroad  for  the  purpose  of  manuring  the  soil. 
This  they  effect  by  first  collecting  it  in  convenient  round 
balls,  or  masses,  in  which  they  deposit  their  eggs,  and 
then,  rolling  them  along  with  their  hind  legs,  they  bury 
them  in  different  places  in  the  ground.  Such  was  the 
useful  occupation  in  which  I  found  a  species  of  Gymno- 
pleurus  engaged,  under  the  shade  of  a  grove  of  Casuarina 
trees,  where  the  ground  was  covered  in  many  places 
with  large  quantities  of  the  dung  of  wild  boars  and  of 
deer,  which  dozens  of  these  indefatigable  black-coated 
gentry  were  carefully  spreading  over  the  soil. 

From  the  chrysalis  of  the  only  species  of  the  Sphynx 
Moth  I  had  observed  in  Borneo,  and  treasured  by  me 
with  great  care,  emerged,  after  the  lapse  of  a  considerable 
time,  two  individuals  of  that  odd-shaped,  cosmopolite, 
hymenopterous  insect,  the  Evania  appcndigaster  \  The 
coprophagous  Beetles,  and  the  scavenger  Stapliylinidce, 


254  BUTTERFLIES. 

Silphida,  and  carnivorous  Carabida,  are  by  no  means 
numerous  in  Borneo,  their  place  being  more  than  occu- 
pied by  the  myriad  Termites,  Ants,  and  other  insects 
that  keep  the  surface  free  from  putrefying  objects.  The 
Lamellicorns  and  other  vegetable  feeders  are,  on  the  con- 
trary, very  common  forms,  and,  in  conjunction  with  in- 
numerable species  of  Orthoptera,  feed  upon  the  plentiful 
supply  Nature  has  provided  for  their  use,  in  the  vast 
forests  that  everywhere  clothe  the  surface  of  this  fine 
island. 

Enormous  diurnal  Lepidoptera,  the  handsome,  great 
Ornithopteri,  are  generally  noticed  flapping  lazily  their 
large,  broad  wings  in  the  dark  mazes  of  the  forests, 
sweeping  above  the  low  trees,  and  avoiding  the  climbers 
and  branches  of  the  taller  trees,  with  a  singular  bat-like 
dexterity ;  although  tolerably  numerous,  the  Butterflies, 
however,  cannot  vie  with  those  of  Tropical  America. 
In  a  ramble  through  the  woods,  near  Santubon,  I  pro- 
cured specimens  of  a  rare  and  splendid  species  of  Pyca- 
num,  allied  to  P.  ametkystinum  of  Fabricius,  having 
bright,  burnished,  emerald-green  elytra,  and  the  body 
ornamented  on  each  side  with  alternate  bands  of  black 
and  orange.  The  P.  amethystinum  is  sometimes  set  in  a 
brooch,  as  among  certain  Indian  tribes  are  the  Buprestis 
chrysis  and  the  Diamond  Beetle.  In  the  Philippines,  the 
beautiful,  polished,  green  species  of  Stephanorhina,  and 
the  handsome  Caryphocera,  with  large  black  blotches  on 
the  elytra,  are  also  held  in  much  estimation,  and  are 
preserved  in  a  dry  state  as  ornaments.  One  of  the  most 
common  Hemipterous  insects  (which,  taken  as  a  class, 
not  only  appear  to  be  very  numerous  in  Borneo,  but  also 


GLOW-WORM.  255 

very  curious  in  form  and  brilliant  in  colour)  is  a  species 
of  CatacantJius  allied  to   C.  aurantius  of  Fabricius,  with 
a  bright  yellow  thorax,  two  black  spots  on  the  elytra, 
and  the  margin  of  the  abdomen  marked  with  alternate 
bands  of  light,  clear,  semi-transparent  yellow  and  deep 
shining  black ;  a  very  pretty  species  of  Cattidea,  a  genus 
belonging  to  the  ScuteHerida,  of  a  burnished  golden 
green,  with  large,  round,  black  spots,  is  also  very  common 
in  the  woods  throughout  the  territory  of  Sarawak.     But, 
perhaps,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  insects  observed  by 
me  while  staying  in  this  part  of  Borneo,  was  a  Glow- 
worm, two  females  of  which  were  in  my  possession.     In 
this  splendid  Lampyris,  each  segment  of  the  body  is  illu- 
minated with  three  lines  of  tiny  lamps,  the  luminous  spots 
on  the  back  being  situated  at  the  posterior  part  of  the 
segmentary  rings  in  the  median  line,  while  those  along 
the  sides  of  the  animal  are  placed  immediately  below  the 
stomates  or  spiracula,  each  spiraculum  having  one  bright 
spot.     This  very  beautiful  insect  was  found  shining  as 
the  darkness  was  coming  on,  crawling  on  the  narrow 
pathway,  and  glowing  among  the  dead,  damp  wood,  and 
rotten  leaves.     When  placed  around  the  finger,  it  re- 
sembles, in  beauty  and  brilliancy,  a  superb  diamond  ring. 
The  Spiders  constitute  another  highly  amusing  study  for 
the  entomologist  in  these  regions,  so  dismissing  for  the 
present,  our  tiny  friends  the  Ptilota,  or  winged  insects, 
let  us  regard  a  few  of  these  Apterous  forms,  usually  con- 
sidered so  repulsive,  the  Spiders. 

In  consideration  of  their  apparently  helpless  condition, 
and  the  soft  nature  of  their  integuments,  Nature,  always 
inclined  to  protect  the  weak  and  helpless,  has  given  the 


256  SPIDERS. 

Spiders  a  multitude  of  wonderful  instincts,  by  means  of 
which  they  are  enabled  to  defend  themselves  from  injury, 
provide  themselves  with  food,  and  furnish  safe  retreats 
for  their  tender  progeny.  They  spin  their  toils  of  cunning 
device,  and  even  powerful  insects,  armed  with  formidable 
stings,  are  made  captive  with  impunity,  despite  their 
struggles  to  escape  the  captor.  These  Spiders'  webs 
generally  attract  the  attention  of  travellers,  and,  certainly 
in  some  parts  of  the  forests  of  Mindanao,  Borneo,  and 
Celebes,  there  is  great  and  wonderful  diversity  in  the 
form  and  construction  of  these  ingenious  and  delicately- 
woven  nets.  '  Many  have  black  webs,  some  have  white, 
others  brown,  and  in  Mindanao  I  have  observed  toils 
formed  of  perfectly  yellow  threads.  The  nets  of  the 
great  species  of  Nephila,  which  abound  in  equatorial 
regions,  frequently  stretch  across  the  path,  from  bush  to 
bush,  and  prove  very  troublesome  to  the  naturalist  while 
threading  the  thickets  where  they  are  numerous. 

The  imagination  can  scarcely  conceive  the  bizarre, 
and  fantastic  shapes  with  which  it  has  pleased  Nature 
to  invest  those  hard -bodied  Spiders,  called  by  naturalists 
Acrosoma.  They  have  large,  angular  spines  sticking 
out  of  their  bodies,  in  every  kind  of  fashion,  perhaps 
intended  as  some  sort  of  defence  against  the  soft-billed 
birds,  which  doubtless  would  otherwise  make  dainty 
meals  of  these  Arachnidans,  exposed  as  they  are,  tempt- 
ingly suspended  in  mid  air,  on  their  transparent  webs 
in  the  forest  glades.  Some  are  protected  by  these  long 
spines  to  such  a  degree,  that  their  bodies  resemble  a 
miniature  "  cheveux  de  frise ",  and  could  not,  by  any 
possibility  be  swallowed  by  a  bird  without  producing  a 


CLOSE-EYED  GUDGEON.  257 

very  unpleasant  sensation  in  his  throat.  One  very  re- 
markable species  (Gasteracantha  arcuata,  Koch)  has  two 
enormous,  recurved,  conical  spines,  proceeding  upwards 
from  the  posterior  part  of  the  body,  several  times  longer 
than  the  entire  Spider.  The  Drassi  are  gloomy  Spiders, 
haunting  obscure  places,  and  their  garb  is  dark  coloured 
and  dingy  in  accordance  with  their  habits.  They  are 
mostly  pale  brown,  black,  dull  red,  or  grey.  The  Thomisi 
are  varied  in  their  colour,  in  harmony  with  their  usual 
abiding  places.  Thus,  those  that  spend  their  lives  among 
the  flowers  and  foliage  of  the  trees,  are  delicately  and 
beautifully  marked  with  green,  orange,  black,  and  yellow. 
One  species,  which  I  have  named  T.  virescens,  simulates 
the  vegetation  among  which  it  lives,  is  not  agile  in  its 
movements,  but  drops,  when  alarmed,  among  the  foliage ; 
it  is  of  a  pale  delicate  semi-transparent  sap-green,  with 
the  eyes  and  chelicera  red ;  there  is  a  large  mark  on  the 
surface  of  the  abdomen,  beautifully  variegated  with 
yellow,  pink,  and  black,  and  margined  with  dead-white 
spots;  the  under  surface  is  green  in  the  middle  and 
opaque  white  on  either  side ;  the  spinneret  is  pink. 

A  few  observations  on  the  Periophthalmus,  or  Close- 
eyed  Gudgeon,  and  some  other  remarkable  ichthyological 
forms  which  I  have  noticed  in  this  part  of  Borneo,  may 
not,  perhaps,  be  altogether  uninteresting  to  some  of  my 
readers. 

About  every  group  of  rocks  large  numbers  of  hand- 
somely-coloured fishes  play,  and  dart  among  the  Corallines 
and  Algae,  some  with  rays  of  black  and  orange ;  some 
azure  with  transparent  fins ,  some  yellow,  others  resem- 
bling in  brilliancy  of  tint  the  parrots,  the  loris,  and 

VOL.  II.  S 


258  "  JUMPING  JOHNNY." 

sun-birds  of  the  forests.  Those  that  live  in  shallow 
water  are  brightly  coloured,  whilst  those  dwelling  in  the 
high  seas,  out  of  soundings,  are  generally  of  a  dull  or 
sombre  hue. 

One  of  the  greatest  ichthyological  oddities  one  meets 
with  in  the  tropics,  is  the  close-eyed  Gudgeon  (Perioph- 
thalmus).  On  every  slimy  bank,  among  the  Mangrove 
swamps,  and  on  the  muddy  borders  of  ditches,  the 
curious  eye  will  detect  the  shiny,  uncouth  form  of  this 
grotesque,  amphibious  fish,  jumping  about  like  a  frog,  or 
sliding  awkwardly  along  on  its  belly,  with  a  gliding 
motion.  It  is  equally  at  home  on  the  "  beached  margent 
of  the  sea,"  where  it  is  seen  skimming  along  the  surface 
of  the  water,  or  jumping  and  leaping  from  stone  to 
stone.  By  means  of  its  pectoral  fins  it  is  enabled  to 
climb,  with  great  facility,  among  the  tangled  roots  of  the 
Mangroves,  where  it  finds  a  goodly  harvest  of  minute 
Crustacea.  Crabs  and  worms  do  not,  however,  constitute 
its  only  food,  for  I  have  found  in  the  stomachs  of  some 
I  examined,  insects  in  both  the  imago  and  larval  state. 

The  sailors  call  the  Periophtkamus  "  Jumping  Johnny  ", 
and  appear  very  much  amused  at  its  wary  cunning,  and 
surprising  efforts  to  escape  capture.  I  have,  however,  seen 
parties  of  Dyaks  pursuing  the  larger  species  over  the  wide 
mud-flats,  and  capture  them  with  the  greatest  dexterity. 
Many  other  fish,  besides  the  Periophthalmus,  have  the  same 
power  of  living  for  a  time  out  of  their  native  element, 
among  which  may  be  mentioned  Ophiocephalus,  Macro- 
podus,  Helostoma,  Anabas,  and  Cafy 'acanthus.  Pliny  was 
aware  of  this  fact,  which  he  thus  alludes  to,  "  Quin  et  in 


FIGHTING-FISH.  259 

Indiae  fluminibus  certum  genus  piscium,  ac  deinde  re- 
silit."* 

Another  very  singular  little  fish  is  the  Fighting-fish, 
which  is  kept  in  vessels  of  water  for  the  amusement  of 
the  Malays.  If  irritated,  it  immediately  changes  colour, 
passing  through  shades  of  the  most  varied  and  brilliant 
tints.  When  two  of  them  meet,  they  fight  with  the 
bitterest  animosity,  darting  at  each  other  with  the  swift- 
ness of  thought,  the  victor  frequently  killing  his  adver- 
sary. They  feed  on  small  flies  and  worms,  and  are 
easily  preserved  in  glass  vessels.  A  curious  species  of 
Blenny  is  very  common  on  the  coast,  hiding  in  the  deep 
cylindrical  holes  in  the  shallow  pools  left  at  low  water,  at 
the  orifices  of  which  they  may  be  observed  protuding  their 
obtuse  noses,  and  tentacular  filaments,  using  them  as  a 
decoy  or  bait  like  that  famous  angler  the  Pishing  Prog 
(Lophius  piscatorius).  The  small  fry  swimming  past 
these  tempting  lures,  are  attracted  towards  them,  when 
the  hidden  Blenny  suddenly  darts  upon  them  with  the 
greatest  velocity,  and  drags  them  into  its  den,  there  to 
consume  them.  So  excessively  cunning,  active,  and  wary, 
is  this  little  Blenny,  that  all  my  endeavours  to  procure 
a  specimen  proved  unavailing.  On  the  31st  of  August, 
1843,  while  on  board  the  Brig  'Ariel',  then  lying  off  the 
mouth  of  the  river  of  Borneo,  I  had  the  good  fortune  to 
hear  that  solemn  aquatic  concert  of  the  far-famed  Organ- 
fish,  or  "  Drum  ",  a  species  of  Pogonias.  These  singular 
fishes  produce  a  loud,  monotonous,  singing  sound,  which 
rises  and  falls,  and  sometimes  dies  away,  or  assumes  a 
very  low  drumming  character,  and  the  noise  appears  to 
*  Hist.  Nat.  Lib.  ix.  C.  35. 
s2 


260  SUBMARINE  MUSIC. 

proceed  mysteriously  from  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  This 
strange  sub-marine  chorus  of  fishes  continued  to  amuse 
us  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  when  the  music,  if  so 
it  might  be  called,  suddenly  ceased,  probably  on  the 
dispersion  of  the  band  of  performers. 

The  peaceful  avocations  of  the  student  of  nature,  when 
engaged  in  active  service,  may  sometimes  be  interrupted 
by  disastrous  events,  an  example  of  which  I  shall  here 
relate  \  nor  is  it  the  only  instance  in  which,  in  my  capa- 
city of  Assistant  Surgeon,  I  have  been  a  party  concerned. 
The  incident  I  allude  to,  occurred  one  night  during  one 
of  the  most  tremendous  storms  I  have  witnessed  in 
Borneo,  while  the  'Samarang'  was  anchored  off  the 
Santubong  entrance  of  the  Sarawak  river.  The  horizon 
was  overcast  long  before  the  storm  burst  forth,  and  a 
portentous  lowering  gloom  gathered  in  every  direction, 
but  when  the  rain  came  down  in  torrents,  and  as  it  does 
only  in  the  tropics,  the  sky  was  like  an  universal  pall, 
spread  out  over  nature,  or  a  hugh  black  curtain,  shutting 
out  the  stars  of  heaven,  illumined  only  now  and  then  by 
vivid  and  continuous  flashes  of  forked  lightning,  followed 
by  terrific  peals  of  thunder,  which  seemed  to  shake  the 
earth. 

The  surface  of  the  ocean  was  violently  disturbed,  and 
lashed  into  foam  by  the  driving  gale,  and  on  the  shore 
the  lightning  had  struck  a  huge  Casuarina  tree,  under 
which  our  carpenters,  who  were  cutting  wood  here,  had 
erected  their  tent,  and  had  fallen  and  crushed  a  poor 
Dutchman,  as  he  lay  on  the  sand  at  its  root.  On  my 
proceeding  in  the  barge  to  his  assistance,  the  fury  of  the 
sweeping  blast  throwing  the  spray  about,  contrasting 


RIVER  BANKS.  261 

with  the  tossing  of  the  dark  forest  trees,  formed  a  wild 
and  most  magnificent  scene.  The  poor  man  was  so 
dreadfully  mangled  as  to  be  beyond  the  aid  of  surgery, 
and  expired  shortly  after  my  arrival  at  the  spot. 

Many  of  the  rivers  of  Borneo  have  low,  swampy 
banks,  over-hung  sometimes  by  the  dark  foliage,  twisted 
branches,  and  snake-like  roots  of  the  Mangrove,  or 
fringed  on  either  side  by  dense  clustering  masses  of  the 
elegant  and  useful  Nipa  Palm  (Nypafruticans).  On  the 
ebbing  of  the  tide  there  is,  moreover,  a  margin  of  soft  and 
slimy  mud,  abounding  with  various  Crustaceans,  some  of 
a  beautiful  blue  colour,  which  live  in  holes,  and,  hopping 
about.on  their  pectoral  fins,  are  the  Periophthalmi.  Neri- 
tina  crepidularia  adheres  to  the  petioles  of  the  Nipa 
leaves,  Cerithium  truncatum  to  the  foliage,  and  now  and 
then  the  plunge  of  a  Hydrosaurm  may  startle  the  ob- 
server. On  one  occasion  I  observed  a  Crocodile  extended 
quietly  on  his  belly  in  the  soft  mud ;  I  stood  still, 
watching  him  as  he  lay  extended  in  listless  ease,  with  his 
long,  lank  jaws,  and  dusky-brown,  scaly  skin,  in  bold 
relief  against  the  mud,  and  as  he  turned  his  head  slowly 
and  espied  me  with  his  dull  lurid  eye,  he  bent  his  nose 
close  to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  lashed  his  compressed 
tail  from  side  to  side,  and  wallowing,  retired  into  the  dark 
still  waters.  One  of  these  reptiles  was  in  my  possession 
alive,  but  as  the  Dyaks  had  firmly  secured  his  jaws  with 
a  rattan  muzzle,  there  was  little  to  fear  from  his  ferocity. 
He  was  very  soon,  however,  offered  up  as  a  victim  on  the 
altar  of  science. 

The  novelty  of  Mr.  Waterton's  exploit,  of  riding  upon 


262  CURIOUS  PLANT. 

a  Cayman's  back,  is  not  quite  so  great  as  many  people 
imagine.  Pliny  relates  that  the  Tentyrita  were  in  the 
habit  of  jumping  into  the  river  Nile,  and  riding  on  the 
backs  of  the  Crocodiles,  and  when,  moreover,  these  savage 
Saurian*  turned  their  heads  for  the  purpose  of  biting  their 
unwelcome  burden,  the  ingenious  riders  placed  a  stick  in 
the  mouth  and  held  the  ends  with  their  hands,  thus 
bringing  the  vanquished  reptile  to  the  shore,  as  if  with 
bit  and  bridle. 

In  the  course  of  an  excursion  up  the  Sarawak  river,  in 
company  with  Sir  Edward  Belcher  and  Mr.  Brooke,  I 
found  a  large  and  very  singular  flower,  growing  in  a  dark 
damp  forest,  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  not  far  from  the  moun- 
tain of  Serambo,  in  Borneo.  It  sprung  from  the  exposed 
root  of  a  tall  tree  with  large  light  green  leaves,  in  the 
manner  of  some  gigantic  epiphyte  or  rhizanth.  The 
flower  was  about  sixteen  inches  in  length,  of  a  hard, 
dense  consistence,  and  of  a  light  reddish-brown  colour, 
deepening  towards  the  summit.  The  buds  were  like  the 
full-blown  flower  in  appearance,  of  the  same  dirty  red 
colour,  but  closed  at  the  upper  extremity.  Travelling 
through  the  forest  on  foot,  and  requiring  to  undergo  con- 
siderable fatigue,  I  was  enabled  to  preserve  or  more  mi- 
nutely examine  this  vegetable  wonder.  I  carried  it  to 
the  village,  where  it  did  not  appear  to  excite  much  inte- 
rest, and  after  making  a  rough  sketch  of  it,  I  abandoned 
it  to  its  fate ;  I  simply  allude  to  the  fact  here  in  the  hope 
that  another  botanist,  more  fortunate,  may  fall  in  with 
the  plant  again,  and  make  it  better  known. 

My  opportunities  of  observing  the  habits  of  the  mam- 
miferous  animals  of  Borneo,  were  neither  very  numerous 


HABITS  OF  THE  MUSANG.  263 

or  favourable.  I  may,  however,  mention  a  few  peculiari- 
ties in  the  economy  of  some  whose  acquaintance  I  culti- 
vated, which  may,  perhaps,  serve  to  amuse  the  reader. 
A  Musang,  as  the  Malays  term  it,  (Viverra  musangd) 
during  the  time  it  was  in  my  possession,  afforded  much 
amusement,  and  deserves  honourable  mention  at  my 
hands.  In  many  of  his  manners  he  resembled  the  Man- 
gusta,  or  Indian  Ichneumon,  placing  his  nose  low,  and 
trailing  his  tail  along  the  ground.  When  annoyed,  how- 
ever, he  arched  his  back,  bristled  his  hairs,  and  dilated  his 
tail  in  the  manner  of  an  angry  cat,  and  would  spit  and 
bite  very  severely.  He  would  also  gambol  like  a  kitten, 
and  bite  the  fingers  gently  with  his  sharp  white  teeth. 
He  climbed  with  great  facility,  and  was  perfectly  at  home 
among  the  rigging  of  the  ship.  He  was  an  inquisitive 
and  cunning  little  animal,  ferreting  out  everything  edible, 
rifling  the  messes  of  the  seamen,  especially  their  sugar, 
and  sucking  the  eggs^  belonging  to  the  stewards.  For 
these  petty  thefts  he  has  been  flung  over-board  several 
times,  but  swimming  with  ease  and  rapidity,  he  ascended 
by  the  rudder-chains,  shook  himself,  and  resumed  his 
ordinary  peculations.  On  one  occasion  an  enemy  having 
thrown  him  into  the  sea,  a  friendly  cook  gave  him  a  rope, 
when  he  climbed  nimbly  inboard,  and  was  saved.  One 
ill-fated  day  he  ventured  into  the  holy  precincts  of  the 
Captain's  cabin,  in  pursuit  of  a  rat,  overthrew  some 
bottles,  and  shortly  afterwards,  being  detected  in  the  yet 
more  heinous  offence  of  stealing  the  Captain's  Pigeons, 
his  death-warrant  was  signed,  and  he  was  accordingly 
executed  by  the  sentry  of  the  galley. 

As  an  instance  of  the  'poor  Musang's  cunning,  I  may 


264  SLOW-PACED  LEMUR. 

mention  that  he  was  observed  to  descend  into  a  boat, 
purloin  a  Banana,  quietly  stow  it  among  the  booms, 
and  repeat  the  process  till  he  had  accumulated  a  pretty 
large  store,  when  he  leisurely  commenced  consuming  the 
grateful  fruit  till  not  one  remained. 

On  my  last  visit  to  Sarawak,  my  friend  Ruppell  pre- 
sented me  with  two  live  specimens  of  the  slow-paced 
Lemur  (Stenops  tardigradus}.  They  are  stupid,  quiet, 
gentle,  little  quadrumanes,  with  beautiful,  soft,  woolly 
fur,  and  enormous  black  eyes.  Their  common  cry  is  a 
peculiar,  faint,  wailing  sound,  but  when  angry,  they 
make  a  chattering  noise.  They  are  quite  torpid  during 
the  day,  but  tolerably  active  after  nightfall.  The  female 
gave  birth  to  two  young  ones,  very  helpless  little  creatures, 
which  clung  tenaciously  to  their  mother's  soft  fur,  in  any 
position,  sometimes  on  the  sides,  and  often  under  the 
belly.  Both  the  parents  and  young  ones,  however,  soon 
went  the  way  of  all  pets,  and  their  dried  skins  are  the 
only  evidence  of  their  former  existence. 

I  have  often  observed  the  Wou-wou  (Hylobates  leu- 
cisus)  in  its  sylvan  haunts,  and  unlike  the  Hylobates 
agilis,  which  M.  Dauvancel  says  is  shy  in  its  habits,  it  will 
hang  suspended  by  its  long  arms,  and  swinging  to  and 
fro  in  the  air,  allow  you  to  approach  within  fifty  yards,  and 
then  suddenly  drop  upon  a  lower  branch,  and  climb 
again  leisurely  to  the  top  of  the  tree.  It  is  a  quiet,  soli- 
tary creature,  of  a  melancholy,  peaceful  nature,  pursuing 
a  harmless  life,  feeding  upon  fruits  in  the  vast  untrodden 
recesses  of  the  forest,  and  its  peculiar  noise  is  in  harmony 
with  the  sombre  stillness  of  these  dim  regions ;  it  com- 
mences like  the  gurgling  of  water,  when  a  bottle  is  being 


FLYING-FOX.  265 

filled,  and  ends  with  a  loud,  long,  wailing  cry,  which  re- 
sounds throughout  the  leafy  solitude  to  a  great  distance, 
and  is  sometimes  responded  to  from  the  depths  of  the 
forest  by  another  note  as  wild  and  melancholy. 

I  saw  the  Galugo  (Galeopithecus)  both  in  Borneo  and 
Basilan  in  a  wild  state.  It  is  crepuscular,  and  hangs 
suspended  during  the  day  to  the  under  surface  of  boughs 
in  the  tops  of  high  trees.  When  it  moves,  it  seems  to 
shuffle  and  scramble  among  the  leaves,  and  sometimes 
drops  suddenly  from  its  elevated  position.  It  feeds  on 
leaves,  and  the  stomach  of  one  I  examined  was  filled  with 
remains  of  the  foliage  of  Artocarpus,  and  other  trees. 
The  Spanish  Officers  at  Basilan  shoot  large  numbers  of 
Galeopitheci  for  the  sake  of  their  beautiful  skins,  though 
in  an  excursion  I  made  with  them  we  were  not  able  to 
procure  a  single  specimen.  At  Sarawak  I  had  a  living 
Galeopithecus ',  or  Fying  Fox,  in  my  possession,  which  was 
procured  on  the  occasion  of  felling  some  trees,  in  the  top 
of  one  of  which  the  animal  was  suspended.  It  was  very 
inactive  on  the  ground,  and  did  not  attempt  to  bite  or 
resist.  Having  probably  received  some  internal  injury,  it 
shortly  died.  On  examining  the  body,  I  found  it  was  a 
female  with  young ;  the  embryos,  two  in  number,  appeared 
to  have  the  lateral  expansion  of  the  skin  as  in  the  adult. 

Among  the  numerous  rare  and  interesting  vegetable 
productions  to  be  found  in  Borneo,  is  the  "  Daum  gundi," 
or  Monkey-cup  of  the  Malays,  the  Pitcher  plant  of  the 
English  (Nepenthes  destillatoria,  and  other  species,).  It 
is  a  very  common  plant  in  the  Sarawak  territory,  where 
it  may  be  seen,  with  its  curiously-formed  leaves,  clinging 
to  the  trunks  and  foliage  of  the  trees  that  fringe  the 


266  PITCHER  PLANT. 

banks  of  the  rivers,  or  in  the  interior  of  the  forest.  The 
Nepenthes  has  been  frequently  and  well  described,  but  as 
I  have  seen  it  growing  in  dense  masses,  in  every  stage  of 
developement,  a  short  notice  of  this  very  remarkable  plant 
may  not  be  found  uninteresting.  Besides  the  N.  destil- 
latoria  I  have  observed  another  species,  particularly  com- 
mon on  the  Island  of  Moarra,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
of  Borneo.  This  kind  has  narrower  leaves,  is  a  smaller 
plant,  but  climbs  in  the  same  manner,  and  has  small, 
long,  narrow  pitchers.  Both  species  are  slender  twining 
plants,  chiefly  supported  by  the  shrubs  that  grow  around 
by  the  twisting  of  the  stalks  of  the  pitchers.  The  flowers 
are  simple  perianths,  consisting  of  four  sepals,  of  a  brick- 
red  colour,  with  a  yellow  stigma,  arranged  in  terminal 
spikes,  which  grow  upright  and  crown  the  summit  of  the 
plant.  The  young  plants  have  only  the  round,  gib- 
bose,  and  fringed  pitchers.  There  are  two  kinds  of 
pitchers  in  each  species,  one  growing  at  some  distance 
from  the  ground,  which  is  long,  slender,  and  usually 
green,  or  marbled,  spotted  at  the  mouth  only,  and  fur- 
nished with  a  very  long  foot-stalk;  the  other  kind  is 
formed  of  the  lower  leaves,  and  is  generally  placed  upon 
or  near  the  surface  of  the  ground.  These  latter  Monkey- 
cups,  as  the  Malays  term  them,  are  most  generally  half- 
full  of  insects,  chiefly  ants.  The  pitchers,  when  full- 
grown,  almost  invariably  contain  fluid,  in  different 
proportions.  In  some  cups  there  is  nearly  an  ounce,  in 
others  only  a  few  drachms.  Many  of  them  contain 
insects,  which  if  not  killed,  find  it  difficult  to  escape  out 
of  the  limpid  and  musilaginous  liquid.  In  one  pitcher 
I  found  five  crickets,  hundreds  of  small  ants,  mostly  dead, 


CAPACITY  FOB  HOLDING  WATER.  267 

and  numerous  larvae  of  mosquitoes  and  other  gnats.  The 
cups  near  the  ground  frequently  contain  living  larvae  of 
dipterous  insects ;  while  the  young  and  elevated  cups 
are  free  from  them,  and  contain  pure  limpid  water.  The 
appearance  of  these  beautiful  and  delicately-formed  vege- 
table vases  is  extremely  interesting  and  singular  as  they 
hang  suspended  by  their  fragile  handles,  offering  a  cooling 
draft  to  the  different  animals  that  frequent  the  neigh- 
bourhood. By  pouring  the  water  of  several  dozens  of 
pitchers  into  one  of  large  size,  I  have  several  times  suc- 
ceeded in  quenching  my  thirst  with  a  good  half-pint. 
Many  of  the  full-sized  cups  will  hold  considerably  more 
than  a  pint. 

In  an  account  of  Balambangan,  by  Lieut.  James  Barton 
('  Oriental  Repertory/  vol.  ii.)  there  is  a  very  amusing 
statement  respecting  this  plant.  He  observes,  "The 
northern  part  is  over-run  with  various  species  of  the  Ne- 
penthes ;  but  whether  the  abundance  of  water  is  derived 
from  thence,  or  whether  they  be  the  consequence  of  the 
abundance  of  water,  must  be  left  to  the  decision  of 
naturalists  !  some  caution  ",  he  adds,  "  may  be  prudent 
in  rooting  them  up,  lest  the  former  should  be  the  case." 
Many  other  plants  are  furnished  with  pitcher-shaped 
leaves  besides  the  Nepenthes,  as  the  Cephalotus,  of  New 
Holland,  the  Sarracenias,  or  Side-saddle  flowers,  and 
the  Dischidia  Rafflesiana,  which  I  have  found  growing  in 
the  forests  of  Celebes,  climbing  about  the  trees,  with  its 
singular  leathery  pitchers  partly  filled  with  a  limpid  fluid, 
and  surrounded  with  fibrous  roots.  In  the  '  Oriental 
Repertory '  (vol.  ii.)  a  kind  of  cane,  called  "  Tugal "  by 
the  natives  of  the  Sooloo  Islands,  is  alluded  to,  which 


268  ORIENTAL  FORESTS. 

when  cut  through,  will,  it  is  said,  furnish  an  abundance  of 
clear  water,  and  in  the  same  paper  is  mentioned  a  certain 
creeping  plant,  termed  "  Bahaumpul ",  which,  on  being 
divided,  yields  a  quantity  of  slightly  gummy  water. 

Although  forest-scenery,  with  its  luxuriant  vegetation 
has  been  so  often,  and  so  well  described,  I  cannot  resist 
the  inclination  to  give  my  own  impression  of  those  vast 
and  solemn  temples  "  not  made  with  hands  ",  which  will, 
moreover,  tend  to  show  the  great  similarity  which  exists 
with  respect  to  the  grander  and  more  important  features 
between  all  primeval  forests,  whether  in  the  Eastern 
Archipelago  or  in  the  Western  Hemisphere. 

In  the  forests  of  Celebes,  Mindanao,  and  Borneo, 
besides  the  eternal  ringing  song  of  the  shrill  Cicada,  a 
solitary  note  is  sometimes  heard  from  some  high  tree- 
top,  or  a  loud,  long  whine,  from  the  depths  of  the  dark 
and  sombre  forest.  The  aged  trunks  are  hung  with 
Orchideous  epiphytes,  and  variegated  with  Lichens,  while 
on  the  humid  soil,  dark  fetid  Fungi,  nauseous,  and  mis- 
shapen, spread  their  dingy  forms.  A  shy  Lizard,  scaling 
a  naked  trunk,  or  huge  Mattes,  running  among  the  dead 
leaves,  will  startle  you  for  a  moment.  The  Honey-Bee 
secures  its  hoard  high  in  the  summit  of  some  leafy  bough; 
the  White- Ant  builds  its  cumbrous  nest  about  the  knotted 
roots;  and,  in  among  the  tangled  maze,  huge  Spiders 
spin  their  subtle  toils.  Here  and  there,  the  ground  is 
furrowed  by  the  Wild  Boar's  snout,  or,  where  the  Man- 
groves spread  their  roots,  painted  Gelasimi,  or  Land- 
Crabs,  holding  up  their  one  huge  pincer,  in  a  manner 
perfectly  ludicrous,  though  meant  to  be  threatening,  are 
scampering  about  in  all  directions.  Occasionally  you 


ABERRATION  OF  GROWTH.  269 

notice  one  of  those  silent  over-growings  of  vegetation, 
where  the  form  of  some  Titanic  tree  is  strangely  distorted, 
"  with  knots  and  knares  deformed  and  old,"  or  some  trunk 
embraced  in  the  python  folds  of  an  enormous  Creeper. 
I  remember  seeing,  at  Tanjong  Datu,  a  tree,  of  large 
dimensions,  growing  on  the  top  of  an  enormous  granitic 
boulder,  the  roots  of  which,  descending  in  the  form  of  long 
ropes,  buried  themselves  in  the  ground,  thus  supporting 
the  tree  in  a  perpendicular  position. 

These  aberrations  of  growth,  are  frequently  met  with 
in  the  tropical  forests,  where  great  heat  prevails,  and  the 
ground  is  always  moist.  Although  usually  dim,  and 
often  nearly  dark,  these  woods  are  sometimes  illumined 
by  a  transient  streak  of  light  "  fair  vistas  shooting  beams 
of  day  ",  and  on  the  leaves,  where  the  sunbeams  play, 
showy  Diptera  are  to  be  captured,  and,  numbers  of 
Buprestidce,  with  glittering  metallic  wings.  Generally, 
however,  with  the  exception  of  the  loud  song  of  our 
merry  friend,  the  Cicada,  an  unbroken  silence  reigns 
throughout  the  forest,  which  is  very  solemn  and  im- 
pressive. But  as  the  evening  breeze  sets  in,  this  silent 
majesty  of  the  woods  is  disturbed  by  the  harsh  notes  of 
the  Horn-bill  (Buceros  Rhinoceros  and  Astracius),  the 
screaming  of  Loris,  and  the  chattering  of  Monkeys  in  the 
trees.  The  wood-paths  are  become  instinct  with  life,  and 
now  is  heard  the  whistle  and  the  song,  the  shrilly  cry, 
and  gurgling,  mellow  sound,  the  loud  shriek,  and  all  the 
varied  notes  of  the  "  plumy  people  of  the  grove." 

More  particularly  during  the  period  of  the  immersion 
of  our  good  ship,  had  I  an  opportunity  of  examining  some 
of  the  peculiarities  of  tropic  scenes  and  scenery,  and  what 


270  FLYING-FOXES. 

particularly  reminded  me  of  our  novel  position,  were 
certain  remarkable  differences  in  the  natural  phenomena 
at  the  close  of  day,  between  Sarawak  in  Borneo,  and 
Hampshire  in  England.  In  England,  for  example,  the 
bats  are  on  the  move,  dashing  wildly  under  the  foliage  of 
the  trees,  but  here  we  see  enormous  Pteropi  or  Flying- 
Foxes,  soaring  high  above  our  heads,  with  steady,  flapping 
fright;  the  Mosquitoes  begin  to  sound  their  shrilly 
trumpets ;  the  "  Chichak  "  chirps  as  he  darts  across  the 
ceiling ;  the  Glow-worms  shine ;  the  Fire-flies  glitter  on 
the  trees;  the  warty  Toad  unveils  his  form,  and  the 
Polydesmus  and  Zephronia  venture  forth  to  feed.*  I 
remember,  on  one  occasion,  while  out  on  an  anti-piratical 
expedition,  about  sixty  miles  up  the  river  Linga,  being 
particularly  struck  with  the  appearance  of  a  tropical 
forest  by  night.  On  every  side,  the  dim  and  shadowy 
trees  stood  out  like  ghosts,  perfectly  still,  and  lighted 
up  occasionally  by  dense  clouds  of  Fire-flies ;  the  ground 
on  every  side,  for  many  hundred  yards,  was  a  watery 
swamp,  giving  birth  to  myriads  of  Mosquitoes,  and  slime- 
bred  animals  of  every  description.  Occasionally,  we 
were  awoke  from  our  deepest  slumbers,  by  the  shrieks 
of  wild  animals,  and  the  croaking  din  of  innumerable 
frogs,  but  more  frequently  than  all,  by  certain  "grey- 
coated  trumpeters  ",  as  Milton  calls  the  gnats.  I  had 

*  A  new  species  of  Polydesmus  from  Borneo  in  the  British  Museum, 
I  have  named  P.  Newporti  after  Mr.  Newport,  who  has  particularly 
devoted  himself  to  the  study  of  the  Myriapoda.  A  new  and  large 
species  of  Zephronia  in  the  same  collection,  and  from  the  same  island, 
I  have  named  Zephronia  gigas.  I  may  here  inform  the  less  scientific 
reader,  that  the  first  named  insect  resembles  a  Centipede,  and  the  latter 
a  Wood-louse  more  than  an  inch  in  length. 


MOSQUITOES.  271 

heard  of  the  body-louse  and  chigger,  the  red  acarus,  and 
the  Sand-fly,  but  what  are  they  compared  with  the 
Mosquito?  I  remember  well  on  the  present  occasion 
exclaiming  in  a  rage,  "  Ah !  infernal  Mosquito !  when 
'  thy  shrill  horn  its  fearful  larum  flings ',  driving  all  sleep 
from  weary  eyes,  and  making  the  night  pass  away  as  a 
long  and  feverish,  fitful  dream,  surely  thou  art  a  demon 
of  the  Insect- world  ".  I  have  seen  the  faces  of  myself 
and  some  of  my  messmates,  appear  in  the  morning,  as  if 
they  had  the  small-pox,  their  countenances  being  inflamed, 
swollen,  and  covered  with  white  tubercles,  and  that 
during  a  single  night !  In  England,  when  the  sun  de- 
clines, scarcely  a  sound  echoes  to  the  "dull  ear  of  the 
night-cradled  earth  ",  but  in  Borneo,  as  soon  as  daylight 
begins  to  wane,  a  strange  nocturnal  chorus  fills  the  air, 
which  continues,  without  intermission,  until  the  morning. 
The  performers  in  this  chorus  of  "  beings  of  the  night's 
shadows"  are  very  numerous,  and  each  has  a  distinct 
part  assigned  to  him.  A  subterranean  Beetle  "opens 
the  ball "  from  the  dark  bosom  of  the  earth,  producing  a 
loud,  continuous,  singing  noise,  made  mellow  and 
booming  by  the  winding  of  his  cavern.  The  Frogs  follow 
up  closely  this  first  musical  indication,  making  the  swamps 
resound  with  their  harsh  croakings.  The  mournful  note 
of  the  Goat-sucker  crying  out  monotonously  at  intervals, 
echoes  dismally  around ;  the  Cicadae  not  yet  tired  with 
their  long  day's  work  make  the  dim  shades  resound  with 
their  long  loud  song;  the  Grass-hoppers,  long-legged 
Choristers,  in  their  merry  way,  chirp  with  all  their  might ; 
one  monotonous  continued  wailing  cry  uttered  by  some 
unknown  songster  continues  the  live-long  night;  now 


272  NIGHT  IN  THE  FORESTS. 

you  will  hear  an  interrupted  hissing  whirring  sound  from 
some  huge  locust;  now  a  loud  and  silvery  chirp;  then 
a  soft  and  gentle  sibillant  sound ;  anon  a  harsh  croak,  a 
distant  yell,  or  a  low  gurgling  gutteral  cry. 

The  entire  symphony,  if  so  it  may  be  called,  this  "  re- 
quiem to  the  day's  decline  "  heard  at  a  distance  reminds 
one  of  that  peculiar  sensation  termed  a  "  ringing  in  the 
ears  ";  there  is  no  cessation,  no  rest,  no  respite ;  still  the 
noise  continues,  sometimes  growing  louder,  then  drooping 
and  dying  away,  then  bursting  forth  again  as  if  with 
renewed  enegy ;  in  fact,  I  believe  each  performer  tries  to 
emulate  the  others,  giving  out  great  impulsive  strains 
at  intervals. 

Twice  was  the  midnight  tranquility  of  "Cockpit 
Hall."  disturbed  by  the  visits  of  a  Porcupine,  that  was 
accustomed  to  wander  in  a  half-tame  condition  about 
the  jungle  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  as  these  night 
alarms  afforded  us  some  amusement,  I  shall  relate  them 
to  my  readers.  Our  house,  like  other  Malay  and  Dyak 
dwellings,  was,  of  course,  raised  on  posts  from  the  ground, 
the  space  below  being  occupied  by  pigs  and  poultry. 
Now  it  happened,  as  we  slept  one  night  on  the  floor  above, 
dreadful  whirring  noises,  attended  by  loud  gruntings, 
and  hurrey-skurreyings  were  heard  all  about  the  enclosure 
beneath  the  house.  Anticipating  a  hunt,  I  descended 
our  rude  ladder,  and,  followed  by  a  little  volunteer  with 
a  lantern,  crept  through  the  wicket,  but  instead  of  fronting 
a  wild  Boar  or  Cat-of-the-woods,  my  knife  encountered 
merely  the  quills  of  the  Porcupine,  which  having  entered 
our  premises  to  forage,  could  not  easily  find  his  way  out 
again.  On  another  occasion,  we  were  awoke  by  strange, 


•  PORCUPINES.  273 

unearthly  noises,  somewhat  resembling  the  grunt  of  a 
hog,  mingled  with  sundry  guttural  and  wheezing  notes, 
gradually  approaching  our  quarters  from  the  jungle  at 
the  back.  A  small  hunting  party  was  soon  organized, 
and  sallied  out  in  chase.  The  sounds  grew  nearer  and 
nearer,  when  suddenly,  a  rustling  noise  was  heard,  the 
bushes  shook,  and  out  rushed  the  object  of  our  alarm,  in 
the  shape  of  a  Porcupine !  These  animals,  like  Hedge- 
hogs, appear  to  be  almost  entirely  nocturnal  in  their 
habits,  and  I  had  no  idea  that  the  quiet  creatures  one 
sees  in  Menageries,  were  in  the  practice  in  a  wild  state, 
of  making  such  hideous  noises,  and  of  trotting  about  with 
so  much  animation.  On  another  occasion,  a  reptile,  des- 
cribed as  a  gigantic  Iguana,  having  been  seen  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  our  dwelling  at  Sarawak,  I  was  anxious 
to  procure  it,  as  I  conceived  it  must  be  a  large  species  of 
Hydrosaums,  or  Lace-lizard.  For  this  purpose,  I  watched 
two  days  by  the  side  of  a  spring,  which  I  fancied  the 
reptile  would  select  as  his  head-quarters  during  his  stay 
in  our  neighbourhood,  this  being  a  peculiarity  of  these 
creatures,  and  on  the  third  day,  sure  enough,  he  came, 
trotting  leisurely  along,  and  stretched  himself  at  full 
length  on  the  brink  : 

"Nunc  etiam  in  gelida  sede  lacerta  latet ". 
Throwing  myself  on  him,  I  wounded  him  with  a  clasp- 
knife  in  the  tail,  but  he  managed  to  elude  my  grasp,  and 
made  for  the  woods.  I  succeeded,  however,  in  tracking 
his  retreating  form,  on  hands  and  knees,  through  a  low, 
covered  labyrinth,  in  the  dense  undergrowth,  until  I 
saw  him  extended  on  a  log,  when  leaving  the  jungle,  I 
called  my  servant,  a  Marine,  who  was  shooting  specimens 

VOL.  II  T 


274  ENCOUNTER  WITH  A  LIZARD. 

for  me,  and,  pointing  out  the  couchant  animal,  desired 
him  to  shoot  him  in  the  neck,  as  I  did  not  wish  the  head  to 
be  injured,  which  he  accordingly  did.  Entering  the  jungle, 
I  then  closed  with  the  wounded  Saurian,  and,  seizing 
him  by  the  throat,  bore  him  in  triumph  to  our  quarters. 
Here  he  soon  recovered,  and  hoping  to  preserve  him 
alive,  to  study  his  habits,  I  placed  him  in  a  Malay  wicker 
hen-coop.  As  we  were  sitting,  however,  at  dinner,  the 
black  cook,  with  great  alarm  depicted  in  his  features,  re- 
ported that  "Alligata  get  out  his  cage."  Seizing  the 
carving  knife,  I  rushed  down,  and  was  just  in  time  to  cut 
off  his  retreat  into  the  adjoining  swamp.  Turning 
sharply  round,  he  made  a  snap  at  my  leg,  and  received 
in  return  a  "  Rowland  for  his  Oliver,"  in  the  shape  of 
an  inch  or  so  of  cold  steel.  After  wrestling  on  the 
ground,  and  struggling  through  the  deserted  fire  of  our 
sable  cook,  I  at  length  secured  the  runaway,  tied  him  up 
to  a  post,  and  to  prevent  further  mischief,  ended  his  career 
by  dividing  the  jugular.  The  length  of  this  Lizard,  from 
actural  measurement,  was  five  feet  ten  inches  and  a  half. 
These  gigantic  Lizards  (Hydrosanrus  giganteu£)  are 
rather  shy  and  reserved  in  their  habits,  and  not  very 
agile  in  their  movements.  They  affect  a  swampy  habitat, 
frequenting  the  low  river  banks,  or  the  margins  of  springs, 
and  although  I  have  seen  them  basking  on  rocks,  or  on 
the  dead  trunk  of  some  prostrate  tree,  in  the  heat  of  the 
sun,  yet  they  appear  more  partial  to  the  damp  weeds 
and  undergrowth  in  the  vicinity  of  water.  Many, 
indeed,  are  pre-eminently  aquatic,  as  I  have  noticed  in 
the  rivers  of  Celebes  and  Mindanao.  Their  gait  has 
somewhat  more  of  the  awkward  lateral  motion  of  the 


MONITORS.  275 

Crocodile,  than  of  the  lively  action  of  the  smaller  Saurians. 
When  attacked,  they  lash  violently  with  their  tail, 
swaying  it  side- ways  with  great  force,  like  the  Cayman. 
These  modern  types  of  the  Mososaurus  and  Iguanodon 
have  a  graceful  habit  of  extending  the  neck  and  raising 
the  head  to  look  about  them,  and  as  you  follow  them 
leisurely  over  the  rocks  or  through  the  jungle,  they 
frequently  stop,  turn  their  heads  round,  and  take  a 
deliberate  survey  of  the  intruder.  They  are  by  no  means 
vicious,  though  they  bite  with  severity  when  provoked, 
acting,  however,  always  on  the  defensive.  On  examining 
their  stomachs,  Crabs,  Locusts,  Beetles,  and  the  remains 
of  the  Periopkthalmus,  or  Jumping-Fish,  the  scales  of 
Snakes,  and  bones  of  Frogs  and  other  small  animals  were 
discovered.  Like  that  of  the  Iguana  of  the  New  World, 
the  flesh  of  these  Saurians  is  delicate  eating;  I  can 
compare  it  to  nothing  better  than  that  of  a  very  young 
sucking-pig. 

At  the  island  of  Mayo  we  landed  amid  the  surf,  upon 
a  group  of  high,  bare  rocks  covered  with  Chitons,  Litto- 
rince  and  Nerites,  with  large  painted  Grapsi  running 
about  in  all  directions.  As  I  climbed  the  rugged  accli- 
vity, a  huge  Monitor  Lizard,  upwards  of  five  feet  in 
length,  disturbed  in  his  noonday  siesta,  made  off  to  a 
swampy  ravine  on  the  other  side,  climbing  the  perpendi- 
cular ascent  with  awkward  activity,  and  stopping  now 
and  then  to  look  round  and  examine  his  pursuer.  The 
romantic  chine  in  which  he  finally  disappeared  was 
abundantly  supplied  with  trickling  rivulets,  that  came 
tumbling  down  among  enormous  boulders,  from  their 
sources  in  green  clumps  of  tall  Pandanm  trees,  springing 

T  2 


276  HYDROSAURI. 

from  the  height  above.  The  specimen  of  Hydrosaurus 
giganteus,  from  the  north  coast  of  New  Holland,  in  the 
British  Museum,  is  seventy-eight  inches  in  length. 
Many  African  species,  as,  for  example,  the  white-throated 
Regenia  (R.  albogularis)  and  the  Nilotic  Monitor  (M.  Ni- 
loticus),  also  attain  a  great  size.  How  admirably  adapted 
are  these  semi-aquatic,  dingy-hued  Saurians  to  the  hot, 
moist  swamps  and  shallow  log-laden  lagoons  that  fringe 
the  rivers  of  this  densely-wooded  island !  The  imagination 
is  carried  back,  while  contemplating  the  dark  forms  of 
these  Hydrosauri  plunging  and  wallowing  in  the  water, 
or  trotting  along  deliberately  over  the  soft  and  slimy 
mud,  to  that  "  Age  of  Reptiles  "  in  the  world's  infancy, 
when  the  vast  muddy  shores  of  the  primeval  ocean 
were  peopled  by  those  lazy  lizard-like  monsters,  and 
slow-moving  giant  Efts,  the  Mososaurus,  which  must 
have  been  between  the  Monitor  and  Iguana,  twenty- 
five  feet  long  with  a  laterally  compressed  tail ;  the  Sau- 
rodon  with  its  lizard-like  teeth;  and  the  Dinosauria 
and  Megalosaurus,  large  carnivorous  Crocodile-Lizards. 
Along  the  banks  of  the  fresh-water  rivulets  of  Mindanao, 
numbers  of  these  great  water-loving  Lizards  are  seen, 
plunging  and  diving  in  the  dark,  still  streams,  basking 
on  the  banks,  trotting  among  the"  foliage,  or  lying 
flat  on  their  bellies  upon  the  treees  thrown  across  the 
rivers  and  stagnant  ponds  Among  these  I  think  I  re- 
cognised the  two-streaked  Lace-Lizard  (Hydrosaurus  Sal- 
vator)  and  another  smaller  species,  entirely  of  a  dull- 
brown,  In  the  stream  that  runs  through  the  village  of 
Anjer,  in  Java,  I  noticed  also  numerous  Saurians  of  this 
group,  of  somewhat  more  sluggish  movements,  most  pro- 


TREE-SNAKES.  277 

bably  Uramts  heraldicus,  and  other  species  closely  allied. 
When  wounded,  these  large  Lizards  bite  very  severely,  but 
unless  provoked  are  perfectly  harmless .  They  are  easily  shot, 
but  it  is  not  without  some  difficulty  they  are  caught  alive. 
Among  the  most  active  and  graceful  of  the  Tree- 
Snakes  to  be  found  in  Borneo  is  the  DryiopMs  nasuta,  a 
slender,  grass-green  reptile,  with  a  yellow  line  extending 
along  the  sides,  and  with  the  muzzle  prolonged  into  a 
sharp-pointed  snout.  I  had  two  of  these  beautiful 
creatures  in  my  possession,  at  different  times,  one  from 
Borneo,  and  the  other  from  Celebes.  The  Dyaks,  when 
they  presented  me  with  the  Bornean  variety,  carefully 
secured  in  a  joint  of  bamboo,  with  a  cork  made  of  rolled 
up  leaves,  considered  it  to  be  highly  venomous,  and  were 
greatly  surprised  at  observing  me  playing  with,  and 
teazing  it,  most  probably  confounding  it  with  a  green 
species  of  Megcera,  which  is  poisonous,  and  which  I  have 
also  seen  in  Borneo.  The  Dryiopliis,  however,  is  perfectly 
innocuous,  and  is,  to  boot,  one  of  the  most  graceful 
reptiles  that  glide  upon  the  ground ;  Satan  might  have 
assumed  its  form  when  he  courted  the  notice  and  admi- 
ration of  our  common  mother.  It  is  a  very  active  and 
playful  Serpent,  and  feeds  on  Grass-hoppers,  Ants,  and 
other  insects,  which  it  seizes,  with  the  velocity  of  light- 
ning, frequently  darting  out  its  long,  black,  forked  tongue, 
before  making  the  final  spring.  A  party  in  one  of  our 
boats,  proceeding  up  the  Sarawak  river,  encountered  a 
large  black-coloured  Cobra  (Naja  Tripudians),  seven  feet 
long,  making  his  way  through  the  water  with  his  head 
slightly  raised,  and  his  tongue  protruding.  He  was  im- 
mediately attacked,  wounded,  and,  after  much  struggling, 


278  ANECDOTE  OF  A  PYTHON. 

hissing,  and  many  contortions  of  the  body,  finally  secured, 
and  brought  up  for  my  inspection. 

During  our  residence  at  Sarawak,  a  very  handsomely 
variegated  Python,  about  fourteen  feet  in  length,  was  de- 
tected in  the  act  of  devouring  a  chicken,  beneath  the 
boards  of  Mr.  Brooke's  house.  A  party,  headed  by  the 
gunner,  armed  with  boarding-pikes,  soon  wounded  the 
reptile,  and  secured  him.  When  brought  to  me,  he  was 
apparently  in  a  dying  condition,  so,  after  admiring  the 
beauty  of  his  spotted  skin,  1  fastened  him  to  a  post  in  my 
friend  RuppelTs  room.  During  the  dinner-hour,  how- 
ever, he  had  recovered  himself,  slipped  the  noose  over 
his  head,  and  escaped,  no  one  knew  whither,  and  all 
our  searching  after  the  beautiful  snake  was  unavailing. 
During  a  visit  to  Sarawak,  in  September,  1844,  Ruppell 
informed  me  that  many  months  afterwards,  on  some 
stores  having  been  removed,  the  same  Python  was  dis- 
covered, comfortably  coiled  up  under  some  bags  of  rice. 
No  half-measures  were  pursued  this  time  by  his  mer- 
ciless captors;  he  was  transfixed  with  spears,  his  head  cut 
off,  and  his  skin  preserved  as  a  trophy.  He  measured, 
after  death,  fourteen  feet  in  length.  Before  the  search 
was  made,  several  fowls  and  pigeons  were  found  lacerated, 
and  half-dragged  under  the  house.  A  party  of  Songi 
Dyaks,  from  Serambo,  having  occasion  to  make  a  journey 
to  Sarawak,  encountered  a  Python  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  thirty  feet  long ;  they  succeeded  in  killing  it,  and 
tied  its  head  to  a  tree  on  the  river's  brink.  The  day 
before  our  trip  to  the  Antimony  and  Gold  Mines,  it  was 
seen  extended  across  the  river,  secured  to  the  trunk  of  a 
tree,  but  when  we  passed  the  spot,  it  had  unluckily  been 


ADVENTURE  WITH  A  SERPENT.          279 

washed  away  by  the  freshes  that  rush  impetuously  from 
the  mountains,  at  certain  times,  and  overflow  the  banks. 
Pythons,  or  Boa-Constrictors  as  they  are  commonly  called, 
of  an  enormous  size,  are  reported  to  have  been  seen  in 
the  interior  by  the  Dyaks.  On  one  occasion,  a  large 
dark-coloured  snake  was  observed  by  the  natives  swim- 
ming down  the  river,  when  they  gave  chase.  They  soon 
overtook  the  reptile,  and  killed  it  by  repeated  blows  on 
the  head  with  their  paddles.  This  serpent,  which  was 
presented  to  me,  measured  seven  feet  long,  was  innocuous, 
and  had  a  compressed  form  and  a  dorsal  crest,  extending 
the  whole  length  of  the  body.  I  pursued  a  similar  serpent, 
that  surprised  us  when  bathing,  but  did  not  succeed  in 
capturing  him.  A  curious  circumstance  occurred  at 
Siniavin,  showing  the  dread  entertained  by  the  Malays 
against  the  serpent  race.  Taking  a  stroll  before  breakfast, 
behind  the  village,  I  perceived  a  very  prettily-marked 
snake,  at  the  bottom  of  a  small,  shallow  pool  of  water, 
and  stooping  quietly  down,  impaled  the  reptile  between 
my  finger  and  thumb,  and  thus  succeeded  in  making  him 
my  prisoner.  On  my  return,  after  showing  my  prize  to 
the  party,  in  order  to  elicit  proper  admiration  of  its  black 
and  red  mottled  skin,  I  proceeded  to  the  river's  brink,  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  the  animal  in  an  empty  stoppered 
bottle,  which,  according  to  custom,  I  had  brought  with 
me  for  zoological  contingencies,  like  the  present.  The 
serpent  being  safely  lodged  in  "  durance  vile,"  I  was  rather 
surprised,  some  little  time  afterwards,  at  seeing  a  great 
commotion  among  the  "  Tambang-boys,"  and  my  curio- 
sity prompting  me  to  investigate  the  cause  of  their  leaping 
precipitately  into  the  water,  and  evincing  other  signs  of 


280  CHAMELEON. 

excitement  and  alarm,  I  soon  ascertained  that  the  awk- 
ward movements  of  Sooboo,  Mr.  Brooke's  coxwain,  as  he 
was  engaged  in  clearing  out  the  boat,  had  broken  the 
bottle,  containing  the  captive  snake,  and  that  no  sooner 
had  the  men  caught  a  glimpse  of  his  gliding  form,  than 
they,  one  and  all,  rushed  tumultuously  over  the  side  of 
the  Tambang  into  the  river,  while  the  serpent,  soon  fol- 
lowing their  example,  swam  peacefully  to  the  opposite 
bank,  and  found  a  safe  retreat  among  the  dense,  weedy 
mass  that  fringed  the  river.  Sooboo  afterwards  informed 
me,  that  the  species  of  snake  I  had  captured  in  the 
morning,  was  considered  by  the  natives,  one  of  the  most 
venomous  in  the  country. 

The  Polyckrus  virescens,  like  the  Chamelion,  changes  its 
colour,  assuming  various  hues,  which  are  dependent  on 
rage  or  fear.  When  first  captured,  and  trembling  in  the 
hand,  it  throws  off  its  bright  green  mantle,  and  assumes 
a  coat  of  sober  russet-brown,  which  is  sometimes  varied 
with  lighter  spots ;  frequently  it  remains  of  a  fine  emerald 
green  on  the  belly.  It  is  the  "  Gruning  "  of  the  Malays, 
and  probably  the  "  Chameleon  "  that  Marsden  mentions, 
as  being  common  in  Sumatra.  It  hunts  for  insects  among 
the  foliage  of  the  trees,  and  is  fond  of  travelling  out  to 
the  end  of  a  slender  branch,  to  watch  the  Diptera,  as  they 
wheel  in  circles  by.  I  always  found  their  stomachs 
loaded  with  insects.  The  Gruning  bites  very  severely. 

The  "  Toke  "  of  the  Malays,  is  a  very  common  lizard 
among  the  "  attap "  dwellings  of  the  Dyaks.  It  feeds 
on  beetles,  and  other  insect-forms  that  find  a  home  in 
holes  of  rotten  wood.  It  emits  a  peculiar  chirping 
sound.  The  eggs  are  somewhat  smaller  than  a  wren's, 


HOUSE-LIZARD.  281 

and  are  concealed  in  damp  and  rotten  logs.  The  young, 
when  first  excluded,  are  of  a  bluer  tinge  than  the  mother- 
reptile,  and  begin  to  crawl  immediately  on  their  expulsion 
from  the  ovum. 

The  House-Lizard,  or  "Chichak",  of  the  Malays, 
(Ptyodactylm  Gecko)  is  common.  During  the  day  it  con- 
ceals itself  from  view,  and  towards  evening,  runs  across 
the  rafters,  emitting  its  sharp,  chirping  note.  On  one 
occasion,  I  was  much  amused  with  a  struggle  between  one 
of  these  domestic  reptiles,  and  a  large  tarantula  spider. 
The  Chicaak  proved  victorious,  and  succeeded  in  swal- 
lowing the  insect,  whose  enormous  legs,  protruding  from 
the  lizard's  mouth,  gave  the  compound  animal  the  aspect 
of  some  wondrous  Octopod.*  The  natives  are  fond  of 
the  "  Chichak,"  permitting  it  to  harbour  in  security,  for 
it  clears  their  bamboo-dwellings  of  Spiders,  Scorpions, 
Centipedes,  and  other  vermin. 

The  Grass-Lizard  (Tachysaurus  Japonicus)  is  a  slender, 
graceful  reptile,  of  the  most  brilliant  green,  with  a  yel- 
lowish stripe  on  either  side,  and  a  tapering  tail,  four 
times  the  length  of  the  body.  It  is  found  among  the 
high  grass,  and  in  dense  brakes,  where  the  flowers  are 
thickest.  Here  light,  elegant,  and  sprightly,  it  preys  on 
flies,  and  Orthopterous  insects,  which  it  captures  in  a 
most  expert  and  dexterous  manner.  I  have  met  with  it 
also  among  the  Korean  Islands,  the  Meia-co-shimahs,  and 
at  Sama-Sana  Island,  in  the  China  Sea. 

*  Pliny  records  the  fact,  however,  that  spiders  are  in  the  habit  of 
capturing  small  Lizards,  first  entangling  them  in  their  webs,  afterwards 
destroying  them  with  their  jaws,  a  spectacle,  he  observes,  worthy  of  the 
amphitheatre ! 


282  BROWN  LIZARD. 

The  large  Brown  Lizard  is  common  in  Hong- Kong, 
Korea,  and  in  Borneo.  When  caught,  it  bites  severely. 
It  is  a  ground  Lizard,  and  is  very  active,  preying  on 
insects  of  various  kinds.  The  Malays  call  it  "  Bingka- 
rong."  I  have  seen,  while  lazily  reclining  under  the 
cool  shade  of  the  trees  on  the  small  Island  of  Burong, 
this  large  brown  Lizard  very  attentively  watching  by  the 
side  of  a  populous  Ant-hill,  and,  as  the  unsuspecting  in- 
habitants came  forth,  in  regular  columns,  as  is  their  wont, 
he  would  lick  them  up,  with  a  complacent  shake  of  the 
head ;  looking  about  him,  at  the  same  time,  in  a  knowing 
manner,  with  the  fore  part  of  the  body  raised  high  upon 
the  legs,  and  his  long  tail  undulating  gently  from  side  to 
side.  Many  thousands  of  the  population  of  their  city 
were,  doubtless,  consumed,  in  the  course  of  an  hour,  by 
this  fearful  dragon  without  their  walls. 

I  have  observed  the  Fringed  Tree- Gecko  (Ptychozoon 
homalocephala)  ascend  the  stems  of  trees  with  considerable 
agility,  feeding  greedily  on  the  Termites  that  march  in 
swarms  up  and  down  the  trunks,  but  I  fancy  the  obser- 
vation of  Boie,  that  "  they  use  the  expansions  on  their 
sides  as  a  parachute,"  to  be  incorrect.  I  have  seen  them 
cling  to  the  smooth  stem  of  a  Palm,  and  remain  for  a 
long  time  perfectly  motionless.  They  appear  to  court  the 
shade,  and  owing  to  their  assimilating  in  colour  to  the 
bark,  they  are  not  easily  to  be  perceived,  even  by  the  eye 
of  the  naturalist.  They  are  certainly  not  aquatic,  as 
M.  Cuvier  once  imagined.  In  the  young  animal,  the 
membrane  is  corrugated,  and  as  if  shrivelled  up,  although 
it  is  not  rudimental,  and,  in  some  specimens,  the  free 
margin  of  the  mouth  is  entire,  while  in  others,  it  is  scal- 
loped, and  irregular. 


FLYING  LIZARD.  283 

The  Uroplatesjimbriatus,  another  curious  little  Lizard, 
with  the  tail  edged  with  a  thin  membrane,  is  also  found 
in  Borneo.  I  have  caught  it  as  it  was  running  up  and 
down  the  stems  of  the  Areca  palm,  and  I  have  seen  it, 
also  on  the  Papyia.  This  fimbriated  Gecko  is  about  the 
same  size  and  colour  as  the  common  varieties  of  the 
Ptyodactylus  that  frequent  houses,  and  is  likewise  a 
native  of  the  island  of  Madagascar.  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  Lizards  I  have  met  with  in  Borneo,  is  the 
Tachydromus  sexlineatus,  which  is  elegantly  marked  with 
white  and  black  streaks  and  spots.  It  is  generally  found 
in  sunny  places,  among  dead  leaves,  and  is  astonishingly 
active.  Before  I  take  leave  of  the  Bornean  Reptiles, 
I  must  say  a  few  words  about  the  Dracunculus  quinque- 
fasciatus.  This  tiny,  painted  Dragon  of  the  East,  the 
Flying  Lizard  of  the  Woods,  is  fond  of  clinging  with  its 
wings  to  the  smooth  trunks  of  trees,  and  there  remaining 
immoveable,  basking  in  the  sun.  When  disturbed,  it  leaps, 
and  shuffles  away  in  an  awkward  manner.  One  I  had 
in  my  possession,  reminded  me  of  a  Bat,  when  placed  on 
the  ground.  Sometimes  he  would  feign  death,  and  re- 
main perfectly  motionless,  drooping  his  head,  and  doubling 
his  limbs,  until  he  fancied  the  danger  over,  then  cautiously 
raising  his  crouching  form,  he  would  look  stealthily 
around,  and  be  off  in  a  moment.  It  consumes  flies  in  a 
slow  and  deliberate  manner,  swallowing  them  gradually. 
The  eggs  of  the  Lined  Flying-Dragon  (Dracunculus  linea- 
fus),  which  I  have  examined  in  Borneo,  are  white,  and 
much  smaller  than  those  of  the  Golden-crested  Wren. 
They  are  joined  together  in  the  manner  of  those  of  a 
Snake.  The  inclosed  young  have  the  lateral  membrane 


284  BANDED-HEADED  DRAGON. 

fully  formed.     The  eggs  are  found  among  decayed  vege- 
table matter,  and  under  the  loose  bark  of  trees. 

The  Banded-Head  Dragon  (Dracunculus  ornatus)  is  a 
native  of  the  Bashees,  as  well  as  of  the  Philippines,  but 
I  do  not  remember  having  seen  it  in  Borneo. 


285 


CHAPTER  III. 

BASHEE  AND  MEIA-CO-SHIMAH  GROUPS. 

Macao — Its  appearance  from  the  Roads — Baton — A  Marriage  Feast — 
Rejoicings  over  the  Dead — Exhibition  of  the  Magic-Lanthorn — 
Appearance  and  Dress  of  the  Women — Vegetation — Insects — 
Anecdote  of  a  Spider — Pirate-Crabs — Story  about  a  Land-Crab 
— Beautiful  Molluscous  Animal — Singular  Crustacean — Sea-Eggs 
Star-Fish  —  Red-blooded  Worms  —  Sharks  — Meia-co-shimahs — 
Lost  in  the  Woods — Scenery — A  natural  Amphitheatre — Proposed 
scheme  of  abduction — Gratitude  of  the  Natives — Mountain  Scenery 
The  Screw-Pine — The  Hibiscus,  Banyan,  Camelia,  and  other 
plants — Combination  of  Temperate  and  Tropical  Forms — Palms 
— Bamboo — Torches — Edible  Cryptogamic  Plant — Vegetables — 
Reptiles — Blue-tailed  Lizard — The  Diodon — Enormous  Octopi — 
The  Kraken — Habits  of  Cephalopoda — Mollusca  used  as  food — 
Modes  of  defence  of  Mollusks — Enemies  of  Mollusks — New  Genus 
of  DorididaB  —  Habits  of  Crustaceans — Insects — Glow-Worm — • 
The  Centipede — The  Scorpion — Spiders — Aspect  of  the  Coral- 
reefs — Zoophy  tes . 

ON  the  14th  of  September,  1843,  we  arrived  at  Hong- 
Kong,  where  we  remained  till  the  29th  of  October,  when 
we  again  made  sail,  and,  on  the  30th,  anchored  in  Macao 
roads.  Our  short  stay  at  this  place  did  not,  however, 
offer  much  to  the  notice  of  the  naturalist,  and  I  have 
already,  in  the  body  of  the  work,  alluded  to  the  busy 


286  MACAO. 

appearance  of  the  streets,  and  paid  my  humble  tribute  to 
the  famous  Cave  of  Camoens.  I  shall  therefore,  after 
briefly  alluding  to  its  appearance,  from  the  water,  proceed 
on  to  the  Bashee  Group.  Macao  offers  a  somewhat  in- 
teresting sight  when  seen  from  the  anchorage  in  the 
roads  ;  the  heights  of  the  mountains,  Charil,  and  Milan, 
are  crowded  with  forts  and  hermitages,  and  stretching 
along  the  water,  the  broad  quay,  or  landing-place,  (Praya 
grande,)  shows  a  row  of  neat  and  airy  houses.  Two 
churches,  and  numerous  monasteries  of  Capuchin,  Augus- 
tin,  and  Dominican  Monks,  and  one  female  convent,  that 
of  St.  Clare,  (rather  curiously  dedicated  to  the  Conception 
of  the  Mother  of  God)  ornament  the  city,  and  relieve  the 
monotony  of  Chinese  Bazaars,  &c.  The  greater  part  of 
the  population  consists  of  "  Mesticos,"  or  a  mixture  of 
Chinese,  Malay,  and  Portuguese. 

On  the  2nd  of  November,  1843,  we  left  Macao  roads, 
and  on  the  12th,  arrived  at  Batan,  where  we  remained 
till  the  27th,  and  partially  surveyed  the  group.  Since 
that,  several  other  visits,  in  February,  1844,  in  March, 
1845,  and  in  May  and  November  of  the  same  year,  have 
enabled  me  to  make  a  few  observations,  which  may  not 
be  unacceptable  or  uninteresting.  I  remember  on  one 
occasion,  being  very  much  amused  at  a  wedding-feast  at 
which  I  was  present,  and  as  it  exhibits  a  few  peculiarities 
of  the  habits  of  these  Islanders,  I  shall  shortly  describe  it. 
The  marriage-feast  consisted  of  raw  pork,  finely  chopped 
up,  Yams,  and  Sweet-Potatoes,  not  omitting  large  quan- 
tities of  their  national  beverage,  the  abominable  Bashee. 
The  ground  was  their  table,  their  plates  were  torn  from 
the  Arum  and  Banana,  "  cujus  folia  instar  patinae  natura 


BASHEE  WEDDING.  287 

formavit,"  as  Rumphius  would  observe,  and  their  fingers 
the  knives  and  forks.  After  cramming  their  bodies  with 
this,  to  us,  indigestible  collation,  they  adjourned  to  the 
dancing-room,  a  large  shed-like  building,  where,  to  the 
sound  of  a  fiddle,  the  only  one  in  the  island,  they 
achieved  a  variety  of  extraordinary  dances,  not  generally 
known  among  the  "  Corps  de  ballet,"  or  others  learned 
in  the  Terpsichorean  mysteries.  I  had  the  honour  of 
leading  off  the  first  set  with  the  bride,  and  our  perform- 
ance appeared  to  give  universal  satisfaction ;  and  soon 
the  noise,  chattering,  and  merriment  would  have  done 
honour  to  a  Christmas  party  in  the  rural  parts  of  our  own 
dear  "  Merrie  England." 

When  a  person  is  dangerously  sick,  and  not  likely  to 
recover,  his  friends  all  leave  him,  and  the  house  is  care- 
fully closed ;  the  same  custom  prevails  when  a  woman  is 
in  the  pains  of  labour.  Should  the  person  die,  a  large 
pig  is  killed,  and  placed  by  the  side  of  the  deceased,  and 
eating  and  drinking  take  place  among  the  friends  and 
neighbours,  who  assemble  together  for  the  express  pur- 
pose ;  the  whole  proceeding  reminding  one  exactly  of  an 
Irish  wake,  with  the  exception,  perhaps,  that  the 
"  Keeners  "  are  not  quite  so  accomplished  and  noisy.* 

At  the  village  of  St.  Carlo,  in  Batan,  the  evening  ex- 
hibition of  the  magic-lanthorn  gave  great  satisfaction  to 

*  Marsden,  in  his  '  History  of  Sumatra ',  alludes  to  a  similar 
practice  among  the  natives  of  that  island.  Referring  to  their  funeral 
rites,  he  observes  :  "  On  this  occasion,  they  kill,  and  feast  on  a  Bxiff'alo, 
and  leave  the  head  to  decay  on  the  spot,  as  a  token  of  the  honour  they 
have  done  to  the  deceased,  in  eating  to  his  memory ;"  and  again,  "  the 
women  who  attend  the  funeral  make  a  hideous  noise  not  unlike  the 
Irish  howl." 


288  MAGIC-LANTHORN. 

the  native  Indians,  who  came  attired  for  the  occasion  in 
their  best  habiliments,  and  even  those  spectators  of  the 
fairer  sex  were  more  decently  covered  than  is  their  wont, 
and  all  assumed  the  most  modest  and  well  behaved  de- 
portment. Bursts  of  unrestrained  merriment  occasionally 
uprose,  as  some  ridiculous  phantasm,  more  fantastic  than 
ordinary,  met  their  wondering  eyes.  The  short  lace  jackets, 
partially  veiling,  but  not  quite  concealing  the  bosom,  the 
sarong,  tightly  fitting  about  the  hips,  and  the  small  bare 
feet,  with  the  tips  of  the  toes  resting  in  little  embroidered 
slippers,  set  off  the  well-made,  symmetrical  forms  of  the 
young  girls,  many  of  whom  were  really  pretty. 

Among  the  plants  that  grow  wild  in  these  islands,  is 
the  Datura  tatula,  an  aromatic  Absinthium,  much  valued 
as  an  anthelmintic  and  stomachic  by  the  natives ;  an 
aromatic  plant,  very  much  like  the  Teucrium  Scorodonia; 
a  species  oiLamium,  with  large  showy  purple  flowers;  the 
red  and  yellow-flowered  Canna ;  the  Spondias  dulcis,  and 
Ebony  (Diospyrus  melanoxylori) ;  the  Sweet-scented  Violet 
(Viola  odoratd),  a  very  palatable  mountain  Raspberry,  the 
Castor-oil  plant,  and  Convolvulus. 

The  insects  which  appear  to  be  most  common  among 
the  Bashees  belong  to  the  Rhynochophora  and  Chrysome- 
lid(B.  Small  jumping  beetles,  Haltica,  commonly  known 
by  the  name  of  "  Garden  Fleas  ",  are  very  numerous,  as 
are  several  Scutetterida ;  one  Cattidea,  in  particular,  with 
a  purple  thorax,  and  light-green  elytra,  with  black  spots, 
is  a  very  common  insect.  In  some  parts,  the  leaves  are 
covered  with  innumerable  larvae  of  a  handsomely-marked 
species  of  Cassida,  all  of  them  being  concealed  under  little 
tents,  formed  out  of  their  own  excrement.  A  Cereopis,  with 


BEETLES  AND  SPIDERS.  289 

an  orange  head  and  thorax,  and  black  elytra,  covered 
with  orange  spots,  is  common  among  the  leaves  in  sunny 
places,  and  a  velvety  Laguria,  with  metallic-looking, 
green,  punctulated  wing-covers,  is  frequently  seen  pitching 
for  an  instant  on  the  surface  of  the  leaves,  and  taking 
flight  again  with  the  greatest  velocity,  having  more  the 
habits  of  some  active  dipterous  insect  than  of  a  beetle. 
A  small  green  Mantis  is  not  uncommon,  crawling  among 
the  culms  of  the  long,  rank  grass. 

In  these  islands  I  have  noticed  a  large  species  of 
Nephila,  which  appears  undescribed.  The  thorax  is 
covered  with  a  silvery  pubescence,  the  abdomen  has  nine 
bright-yellow  spots ;  the  shanks  of  the  first  pair  of  tibiae 
have  a  broad  yellow  band,  and  those  of  the  posterior 
tibiae,  and  penultimate  joints,  at  their  proximate  ends, 
have  a  similar  band.  The  rest  of  the  body  and  legs  is 
black.  It  forms  a  large,  strong  geometrical  web.  I  have 
named  the  species  N,  xanthospilota. 

The  larvae  of  the  Cryptocephali,  which  abound  here, 
form  hollow,  flattened  cases  of  the  comminuted  cuticle  of 
the  leaves  of  the  Sea-Convolvulus,  and  may  be  seen 
crawling  about  by  hundreds,  like  the  larvae  of  Cassida. 
When,  however,  they  are  about  to  undergo  their  meta- 
morphosis, they  adhere  firmly  to  the  upper  surface  of  the 
leaves,  by  means  of  a  glutinous  secretion,  which  is  inso- 
luble in  water,  and  thus  prevents  their  being  washed 
away  by  the  rains. 

Under  the  decayed  bark  of  trees  I  noticed,  near  Santa 
Ivanna,  numbers  of  a  species  of  Chelifer,  running  up  and 
down  the  trunk,  like  so  many  pigmy  Scorpions. 

Among  the  Bashees,   Spiders,  of  the  genera  Nephila 

VOL.  n.  u 


290  SPIDERS  AND  PIRATE-CRABS. 

and  Acrosoma,  are  numerous.  There  is  one  very  large 
and  handsome  species  of  the  latter  genus,  which  has 
a  strange  habit,  when  alarmed,  of  suddenly  erecting 
the  second  pair  of  legs,  with  a  rapid,  jerking  motion ; 
while,  at  the  same  time,  he  gathers  together  all  the  other 
legs,  and  shakes  his  web  violently,  in  order,  apparently,  to 
intimidate  his  adversary,  or,  perhaps,  to  ascertain  the 
strength  of  his  position.  If,  however,  the  cause  of  alarm 
be  continued,  he  coils  himself  up,  while  all  his  members 
become  rigid,  as  in  death,  and  then  falling  to  the  ground 
he  remains  like  a  small,  inanimate,  brown  ball,  until  the 
enemy  has  departed.  His  cunning  never  forsakes  him, 
even  in  his  greatest  emergency,  for  he  continues  all  this 
while  actually  to  maintain  a  communication  between  him- 
self and  his  web,  by  means  of  a  fine  thread,  fixed  at  one 
end  to  the  centre  of  his  toil,  and  at  the  other  attached  to 
the  spinneret  at  the  end  of  his  abdomen.  By  means  of 
this  attenuated  and  invisible  cord,  he  will  climb  up  again 
when  the  danger  is  over,  and  resume  his  old  pastime  of 
rapine  and  blood-sucking. 

The  dry  rocks  swarm  with  Robber- Crabs,  in  their  bor- 
rowed houses,  all  very  busy  and  vivacious.  These  Paguri, 
or  "  Pirate  Crabs,"  are  very  numerous  throughout  the 
Indian  Islands,  taking  refuge,  some  in  the  prostrate 
bodies  of  decayed  trees,  some  in  the  dead  leaves  and 
underwood,  and  some  penetrating  the  verge  of  the  forest, 
and  ascending  the  Hibiscus,  and  other  trees  that  border 
upon  the  sea.  Many,  again,  are  littoral  in  their  habits? 
and  others  live  at  great  depths.  One  species  was  obtained 
off  the  Cape,  at  230  fathoms,  having  fabricated  for  itself 
a  most  ingenious  dwelling,  in  the  form  of  a  univalve 


REMARKABLE  LAND-CRAB.  291 

turbinated  shell,  from  an  Ancittaria,  incrusted  with  an 
alcyonoid  sponge.  Others,  again,  like  the  Birgus  latro, 
live  high  up  the  mountains,  in  holes  of  rocks,  and  in  hol- 
low trees.  Regarding  this  Pirate,  the  natives  of  Batan 
tell  very  remarkable  stories.  They  say  it  utters  a  sharp 
cry  when  caught,  that  it  bites  most  severely,  and  defends 
itself  with  desperation,  that  it  carries  its  eyes  in  its  tail, 
runs  with  surprising  celerity,  feigning  death  when  alarmed, 
and  cuts  down  with  its  chelae  the  young  Cocoa-nut  trees. 
From  observation,  I  can  say  they  run  swiftly  backwards, 
feign  death  when  disturbed,  feed  on  fruits,  and  are  of 
immense  strength.  They  are  numerous  at  the  Meia- 
co-shimah  Group,  where  they  inhabit  holes  in  the  banks 
among  the  pine  woods.  At  Cocos  Island,  they  are  said 
to  be  destructive  to  the  young  Cocoa-nut  trees.  Sir  E. 
Belcher  informs  me  they  attain  to  an  enormous  size  in 
Pitcairns  Island,  and  that  there  is  a  tradition  of  a  woman, 
after  having  been  cast  ashore  senseless,  from  a  wreck, 
being  deprived  of  her  babe,  by  one  of  these  giant  Land- 
Crabs,  and  who  was  rescued  only  by  the  death  of  the 
captor. 

The  Hermit-Crabs  form  three  large  divisions,  the  Sir- 
gw,  entirely  terrestrial,  and  unprovided  with  a  borrowed 
protective  shell;  one  (Cenobitd)  which  lives  in  shallow 
bays,  fresh-water  pools,  or  on  the  borders  of  woods,  near 
the  sea,  and  which  closes  the  aperture  of  its  dwelling  with 
its  left  chela,  and  second  left  ambulatory  foot ;  and  a 
third-class  (Paguri),  which  live  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea, 
at  greater  depths,  which  have  foot-claws,  elongated  and 
feeble,  extending  straight  forwards,  and  never  closing  the 


292  BEAUTIFUL  MOLI.USKS. 

aperture  of  their  stolen  habitaculura.  On  being  captured, 
they  always  retreat  to  the  further  end  of  the  shell. 

On  the  little  Island  of  Ibugos,  one  of  the  Bashee  Group, 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  observing  the  large  and  hand- 
some Pleurobranchus  testudinarius,  figured  in  Philippi's 
'  Enumeratio  Molluscorum  Sicilise '  (Tab.  XX.  Fig.  1.),  in 
its  native  element.  It  was  gliding  quietly  along,  at  the 
bottom  of  a  shallow  salt-water  pool,  near  the  shore.  The 
cheloniform  back  of  the  animal  is  splendidly  variegated 
with  various  rich  and  glowing  colours,  chiefly  ruddy 
browns,  Vandyke,  Sienna,  and  Bistre,  with  Lake  and 
Indian  yellow,  relieved  by  numerous  dead  white  specks. 
The  integument  is  covered  with  hexagonal  markings, 
which  each  rise  to  a  central  nucleus,  giving  to  the 
creature,  when  in  motion,  very  much  the  appearance  of 
a  diminutive  Tortoise.  The  branchial  organs,  beautifully 
lamellated.  are  arranged  in  two  rows ;  they  are  placed  in 
the  body-groove  of  the  right  side,  just  above  the  foot,  and 
are  slightly  protruded  beyond  the  margin  of  the  mantle. 
The  belly  is  of  a  dark  slate  colour,  the  gills  are  purplish, 
and  the  appendages  of  the  head  of  a  rich  red -brown.  In 
its  movements,  this  Mollusk  is  slow  and  deliberate, 
crawling  in  a  slug-like  manner,  at  the  bottom  of  the 
water.  The  chromatogenous  vesicles,  or  cytoblasts  of 
colouring  matter,  when  examined  microscopically,  were 
found  very  large,  and  well-developed  in  the  soft,  coloured 
skin  of  this  beautiful  Mollusk. 

On  the  same  flat,  weedy  beach,  there  is  a  peculiar 
species  of  Cattianassa,  which  digs  pits  in  the  sand,  in  the 
manner  of  the  Ant-Lion.  It  is  a  long,  red-coloured 


"SCAVENGERS  OF  THE  DEEP."  293 

powerful  Crustacean,  and  allows  the  antennae  to  be  pro- 
truded some  way  from  the  mouth  of  its  snare,  and  when 
the  Ophiwri,  or  other  animals,  come  unwarily  by,  his  foot- 
claws  are  immediately  darted  forth,  and  the  victim  is 
dragged  forcibly  down  to  be  devoured  at  leisure.  The 
TJialassina  Scorpionoides  lives  in  holes,  in  a  similar  manner 
on  the  dry  land,  but  is  a  weak,  inactive  creature,  and  does 
not  seem  possessed  of  the  same  ingenuity. 

Among  the  numerous  interesting  marine  forms  of 
organic  life  to  be  met  with  among  the  Islands  of  the 
Bashee  Group,  not  the  least  worthy  of  note  are  those 
Echinodermatous  animals,  the  Opkiuri,  Asteriades,  Holo- 
thurice,  and  Echini.  Eccentric  in  appearance,  disgusting 
in  their  habits,  they  crawl  languidly  at  the  bottom  of  the 
sea,  always  intent  on  procuring  food,  consuming  vora- 
ciously whatever  comes  in  their  way,  so  that  they  have 
appropriately  been  termed  the  "  Scavengers  of  the  deep." 
The  Opkiuri  affect  the  shallow  weedy  sands,  which  the 
water  never  leaves  perfectly  dry.  They  are  fond  of 
concealing  themselves  under  flat  stones,  creeping  into  the 
anfractuosities  of  Corallines,  or  wrapping  their  bodies  in 
the  Algae  that  lie  around  them.  They  sometimes  bury 
their  central  discs  in  the  semi-fluid  sand,  gently  vibrating 
their  snake-like  arms,  and  protruding  their  tubular  feet, 
which  latter  seem  to  serve  them  also  as  breathing  organs. 
When  pursued  by  an  enemy,  they  move  with  considerable 
dispatch,  dragging  their  bodies  sideways,  by  seizing  upon 
the  irregularities  of  the  ground  with  their  long,  flexible 
brachia. 

A  superb  Asterias,  upwards  of  a  foot  in  diameter, 
beautifully  marked  with  crimson,  and  covered  with  small 


294  SEA-EGGS  AND  STAR-FISH. 

dark  spots,  was  obtained  from  the  same  locality.  In 
deeper  water  along  the  coasts  of  these  islands.,  the 
dredge  furnished  us  with  numerous  Spatanyi,  the  spines 
of  which,  when  the  animals  are  alive,  have  a  slow  oscil- 
lating movement,  but  they  do  not  serve  as  such  important 
organs  of  locomotion,  as  they  do  in  the  Cidaris  and 
Echinus.  The  flattened  forms  of  Echinodermata  are 
very  numerous  all  over  the  China  Sea,  strewing  the 
muddy  and  sandy  floor,  and  every  time  the  dredge  was 
examined,  numbers  of  Scutella,  Lobophora,  and  other 
forms,  were  procured ;  they  appear  to  have  less  vivacity 
and  perception  than  even  the  Spatangi.  Among  the 
Echini  procured  in  this  way,  was  a  very  handsome  species, 
having  bright  ultramarine  spots  in  the  radial  grooves, 
extending  from  the  mouth  to  the  anus,  with  spines  long, 
slender,  and  marked  with  alternate  light  and  dark  rings ; 
others  were  procured  of  a  delicate  rose-colour,  and  large 
and  splendid  Cidares,  with  tuberculated,  compound  spines, 
having  other  flattened  spines  and  narrow  calcareous  plates 
in  the  sulci  between  the  segments,  were  also  noticed 
among  other  beauties  brought  to  light  by  the  dredge.  The 
tubular  processes  which  issue  from  the  ambulacral  pores  in 
this  Cidaris,  are  capable  of  enormous  dilatation,  and  the 
sucking  discs  at  their  extremities,  are  possessed  of  consi- 
derable powers  of  tenacity.  I  observed  the  animal  after 
rolling  itself  along,  by  means  of  its  spines,  assisted  by  its 
tubular  appendages,  the  so-called  feet,  commence  leisurely 
to  ascend  the  sides  of  the  wash-deck  bucket,  in  which 
I  held  it  captive,  nor  did  it  cease  its  persevering  en- 
deavours until  it  had  arrived  at  the  very  edge,  when,  on 
touching  it,  the  tubular  tentacles  were  withdrawn,  the 


BICHE  DE  HER.  295 

suckers  became  detached,  and  the  creature  fell  to  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel.  The  fact  of  this  locomotion  of 
Echinoderms  was  well  known  to  Pliny,  who  observes, 
"  sunt  echini,  quibus  spinae  pro  pedibus." 

The  Comatulae  are  very  large  and  of  splendid  colours, 
in  the  Indian  Seas.  I  have  figured  one  gigantic  species, 
the  pinnate  arms  of  which  are  of  the  most  beautiful 
green,  the  oval  disc  being  of  a  bright  yellow.  The  Coma- 
tula,  which  is  merely  a  detached  Pentacrinus,  and  possibly 
only  an  adult  form  of  those  pedunculated  Echinoderms, 
enjoys  a  very  considerable  latitude  of  motion,  and  can 
even  raise  itself  from  the  bottom,  and  propel  its  body 
through  the  water  by  a  series  of  successive  jerks,  em- 
ploying the  long  flexible  arms  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  Argonaut  and  Octopus.  Both  Comatulce  and  Gorgo- 
nocephali  are  very  difficult  to  preserve  properly,  even  if 
they  are  first  steeped  in  fresh  water. 

A  species  of  Holothuria  is  common  on  the  shores  of 
these  islands,  of  a  dark  black  colour,  being  covered  with 
a  thick  stratum  of  pigment,  which  stains  the  fingers 
purple,  when  the  animal  is  touched.  The  original  aspect 
of  this  "  biche  de  mer  "  is  concealed  by  granules  of  sand, 
which  entirely  cover  the  large  cylindrical  body.  Its 
branchiae  are  very  beautifully  firnbriated,  and  are  of  a 
deep  purple  colour.  There  is  another  species  of  Holo- 
thuria with  a  soft  brown,  tesselated,  integument,  which, 
on  being  touched,  after  suddenly  ejecting  the  entire  con- 
tents of  its  sacciform  body,  including  the  whole  of  the 
viscera  and  appendages,  through  the  anal  orifice,  shrivels 
up,  and  immediately  dies.  Another  species  is  of  a  bril- 
liant crimson  colour,  with  several  rows  of  bright  yellow 


296  SHARKS. 

pedicelli,  an  ultramarine  coloured  ring  round  the  oral 
aperture,  and  beautiful  compound  branchiae,  of  a  pink  rose 
colour.  In  another  species,  I  noticed  that  the  branchiae 
were  composed  of  numerous  isolated  trunks,  beautifully 
ramified,  and  all  radiating  from  the  crown-shaped  anal 
aperture  so  as  to  form,  in  appearance,  a  lovely  violet  star. 

The  Sternaspis  inhabits  deep  water,  and  was  procured 
by  us  on  two  occasions  from  a  muddy  floor.  It  is  very 
inactive  in  its  habits,  and  when  alive  moves  the  spines  at 
one  end  of  the  body  in  an  oscillatory  manner.  It  appears 
to  be  an  animal  of  delicate  constitution,  dying  and 
shrivelling  up  very  shortly  after  being  taken.  The  worm- 
like  Sipunculus,  which  inhabits  the  loose  moist  sand,  in 
which  it  forms  rather  deep  burrows,  resembles  a  gigantic 
Arenicola,  to  which  it  also  approximates  in  its  habits. 

A  small  species  of  spotted  Shark  is  rather  common 
along  the  shore,  and  appears  to  be  a  very  active  depre- 
dator among  the  shoals  of  fish  that  here  abound.  I 
made  a  capture  of  one  of  these  fish-tigers,  which,  un- 
luckily for  him,  had  run  aground  upon  a  shallow  sand- 
bank. After  making  surprising  efforts  to  bite  his  as- 
sailant, and  regain  his  native  element,  he  finally  became 
my  lawful  prize. 

Speaking  of  Sharks,  I  may  here  mention  a  curious  cir- 
cumstance, showing  the  extreme  voracity  of  these  fish, 
which  occurred  at  Uusang,  on  the  East  coast  of  Borneo. 
A  large  species  of  Zygana  sprang  from  the  water,  seized 
a  bullock's  hide  which  was  drying  at  the  bows  of  the 
ship,  and  succeeded  in  tearing  a  portion  of  it  off.  One 
hundred  miles  from  Batan,  a  shark  was  caught  with  a 
partially  digested  pig  in  his  stomach,  which  had  been 


RED-BLOODED  WORMS.  297 

thrown  overboard  at  the  anchorage  of  San  Domingo,  in 
that  island.  Sharks  are  always,  and  justly  so,  detested 
by  the  sailors,  and  they  ever  experience  a  certain  savage 
delight  in  hacking  them  to  pieces  with  their  knives, 
before  life  is  extinct ;  and  there  really  is  something  very 
unpleasant  in  the  quiet  splashings  of  these  voracious 
monsters,  when  they  are  numerous  round  a  ship,  and 
something  very  revolting  in  the  greedy  pertinacity  with 
which  they  seek  the  filthy  garbage  and  offal  thrown  over- 
board. 

Annelides  are  observed  in  great  numbers  along  the  flat 
shores  of  some  of  these  islands!  Vermiform,  and  slow- 
moving,  they  mostly  exist  blindfold,  and  buried  in  the 
sand ;  while  a  few  are  provided  with  articulated  members 
and  move  freely  about.  The  Eunice  tubicola  lives  in  a 
long  horny,  transparent  tube,  within  which,  strange  to 
say,  it  can  readily  turn  end  for  end.  The  tube  is  fur- 
nished at  one  extremity  with  a  delicate  valvular  apparatus, 
which  allows  the  water  to  flow  but  in  one  direction.  The 
skin  of  some  of  these  Annelides  is  soft,  and  covered  with 
a  slimy  secretion,  and  I  have  seen  one  species  cover  itself 
with  loose  calcareous  grains,  like  the  huge  dark-coloured 
Holothuria  of  the  coast  of  Ibugos.  They,  however,  ap- 
pear to  be,  for  the  most  part,  helpless  and  indolent  beings, 
not  possessed  of  much  activity,  but  vegetating  in  their 
dark  abodes,  leading  lives  insignificant  and  obscure. 
Some  few,  however,  as  the  Nais  and  Scyttis,  would  seem 
to  repudiate  such  an  accusation,  seeing  that  they  enjoy  a 
greater  latitude  of  locomotion,  with  the  possession  of 
senses  much  more  developed.  They  are  very  difficult  to 
preserve  entire,  owing  to  the  facility  with  which  their 


298  LOST  IN  THE  WOODS. 

segments  separate  when  the  animals  are  captured. 
Although  apparently  so  inert  and  helpless,  in  many  in- 
stances they  are  provided  with  means  of  aggression  and 
defence  by  no  means  despicable,  consisting  in  long, 
sharp,  arrow-headed  bristles.  Many  of  these  setigerous 
forms,  as  Aphrodite,  Eupkrosone,  and  some  others,  prove 
most  troublesome  to  the  zoologist,  when  examining  the 
contents  of  the  dredge,  penetrating  the  skin  by  means  of 
their  fasciculi  of  smah1  sharp  spicula,  and  producing  the 
same  unpleasant  irritating  effects  as  the  spicula  of  some 
sponges,  the  hairs  of  certain  caterpillars,  and  the  DolicJios 
pruriens,  and  many  other  plants. 

On  the  27th  of  November  we  left  the  pleasant  Batani 
Islands,  and  on  the  1st  of  December,  arrived  at  Pa- 
tchung-san,  one  of  the  Meia-co-shimah  Group,  and  I  shall 
now  proceed  to  offer  a  few  observations  connected  with 
the  natural  productions  of  these  islands,  merely  premising 
that  the  scientific  details  will  be  published  in  another  work. 

Every  one  of  the  party  seemed  to  enjoy  himself  on 
the  occasion  of  our  survey  of  this  island,  and  each  one 
had  some  little  adventure  to  relate  which  had  happened 
to  himself.  In  one  trip,  as  I  was  astride  a  wretched 
apology  for  a  horse,  a  most  miserable  "  Rosinante,"  fur- 
nished with  heavy  uncouth  stirrups,  a  wooden  saddle,  a 
preposterous  bit,  and  grass-rope  bridle,  in  hot  pursuit 
after  a  curious  Land-Crab,  a  most  cunning  and  active 
species  of  Biryus,  I  unfortunately  lost  my  way,  and  wan- 
dered about  the  woods,  perfectly  "  at  fault."  Trusting, 
however,  to  the  intelligence  of  my  beast,  and  thinking  he 
must  be  better  acquainted  with  the  intricacy  of  the  forest- 
paths  than  myself,  I  gave  him  the  reins,  such  as  they 


LOST  IN  THE  WOODS.  299 

were,  and  allowed  him  to  exercise  his  own  discretion, 
when,  after  conducting  me  through  numerous  dense 
thickets ;  walking  with  me  up  rugged,  stony,  precipitous 
steps,  nearly  perpendicular;  now  stumbling  over  loose 
stones,  and  now  half-hanging  me,  like  Absalom,  on  the 
branches  of  the  trees ;  after  traversing  the  beds  of  shallow, 
running  rivulets,  and  threading  marshes,  almost  knee-deep 
in  mud,  I  found,  to  my  great  vexation,  and  regret  for 
equine  sagacity,  that  the  foolish  animal  had,  after  all, 
mistaken  his  road,  and  had  conducted  me  to  the  margin 
of  the  sea,  in  a  beautiful,  wild  and  desolate  spot,  with 
enormous  rocks,  clothed  with  verdure,  towering  around 
and  above  me,  and  huge  masses  of  broken  coral  strewing 
the  strand  beneath.  I  had  not  much  time,  however, 
allowed  me  to  contemplate  the  beauties  of  the  scene,  or 
the  novelty  of  my  situation,  for  the  jealous  vigilance,  or 
polite  hospitality  as  they  wished  it  to  be  considered,  of 
our  friends,  the  poor  islanders,  interrupted  my  reverie, 
and  prevented  my  being  altogether  food  for  the  crows. 
They  kindly  urged  me  forward  in  the  right  road,  and 
persuading  me  to  quicken  my  pace,  before  long,  I  was 
comfortably  lodged  in  a  temporary  house  built  in  a  few 
minutes,  for  the  accomodation  of  the  Captain,  on  the 
summit  of  a  hill,  surrounded,  on  every  side,  with  beau- 
tiful woods.  Here  we  bivouacked  for  the  night  on  beds 
of  dry  grass,  the  natives  crowding  round  large  fires  in 
the  open  air,  and  the  mandarins  seated  on  mats,  under  a 
shed,  smoking  their  pipes,  drinking  innumerable  small 
cups  of  tea,  and  talking  together  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
night.  Sometimes  our  path  lay  along  a  grassy  plain, 
varied  at  intervals  by  huge  piles  of  rocks  and  stones, 


300  SCENERY  OF  KOO-KIEN-SAN. 

overgrown  with  Vines,  and  other  climbing  plants,  or 
masses  of  dark  Pine  trees,  covering  and  surmounting 
the  wooded  knolls,  and  furnishing  deep  shady  glades  be- 
tween them.  At  other  times,  we  would  wend  our  way 
through  miles  of  sable  forest,  dark,  shadowy,  and  silent, 
and  filled  with  nothing  but  lofty  Pines ;  in  our  course, 
ascending  precipitous  and  rocky  paths,  crossing  narrow 
causeways,  or  rude  bridges  over  waterfalls;  and  then 
again  our  road  would  be  in  open  daylight,  across  broad 
fields  of  Sweet-Potatoes,  or  by  the  side  of  "padi" 
swamps.  In  Koo-kien-san,  we  came,  on  one  occasion, 
suddenly  upon  a  most  magnificent  natural  amphitheatre. 
From  a  verdurous  plain,  covered  with  the  Palmetto  Palm, 
and  prickly  Pandanus,  gigantic  Hibiscus  trees,  and  long 
coarse  grass,  huge  hills  uprose  in  every  direction,  their 
sides  densely  and  beautifully  wooded  with  trees  of  varied 
foliage,  while  here  and  there  a  patch  of  bare  red  rock,  or 
yellow  stratified  acclivity  would  relieve  the  sameness  of 
the  universal  green.  In  many  places  were  ravines  with 
running  water  trickling  down  the  sides. 

To  such  an  extent  did  I  ingratiate  myself  with  these 
good  people,  by  giving  them  medicines,  and  adopting 
their  habits,  that,  in  this  same  island  of  Koo-kien-san,  a 
plot  was  actually  laid  to  carry  me  off  into  the  mountains, 
in  a  rude  kind  of  sedan,  with  tempting  offers  of  a  wife 
and  house,  and  as  much  tobacco  as  I  pleased.  My 
services  as  a  Surgeon  might  have  had  some  influence  in 
bringing  them  to  this  determination.  Finding,  however, 
all  their  pressing  tenders,  and  what  they  conceived 
tempting  offers,  of  no  avail,  their  chagrin  was  very  mani- 
fest, and  they  contented  themselves  with  dressing  my 


CONTINUED.  301 

hair  in  their  peculiar  fashion,  investing  me  with  the 
silver  "  Kami-saschi, "  and  placing  around  me  an 
"  eschaw,"  or  robe,  then  sitting  in  silence,  deplored  the 
resolution  I  had  thought  proper  to  adopt.  At  one  of 
the  villages,  an  old  Chief  brought  down  his  infant  daughter 
in  his  arms,  and  besought  my  assistance,  as  she  was 
afflicted  with  a  tumor  in  the  neck.  On  my  pointing  out 
the  course  he  should  pursue,  he  joyfully  returned  to  the 
village,  and  shortly  afterwards  returned,  begging  my 
acceptance  of  a  small  present,  which  consisted  of  some 
ground-nuts,  a  couple  of  fowls,  a  flask  of  "  saki,"  and 
some  Sweet-Potatoes. 

In  some  of  the  mountain  scenes,  among  the  still  quiet 
glens,  apart  from  the  villages,  there  is  an  air  of  rude 
grandeur  and  magnificence,  hardly  to  be  looked  for  on 
an  island  of  such  comparatively  small  dimensions  as 
Koo-kien-san.  In  one  part  of  the  island  a  stream  of 
water  falls  from  a  great  height,  producing  one  of  the 
highest  waterfalls,  perhaps,  hitherto  known ;  and  towering 
above  this,  are  several  tapering  peaks,  which,  seen  glit- 
tering in  the  splendour  of  the  setting  sun,  produce  as 
fine  a  picture  as  any  Salvator  Rosa  could  have  desired. 
In  other  precipitous  parts,  vast  masses  of  rocks,  lichen- 
stained,  and  overgrown  with  a  wild  and  tangled  vegetation, 
lie  crowded  and  jumbled  together  in  the  utmost  confusion, 
rendering  it  very  rough  and  difficult  work  for  our  small- 
footed  ponies.  Although  both  myself  and  pony  came 
rolling  down  one  of  these  precipitous  passes,  with  high 
banks  on  either  side,  yet  I  would  rather  trust  my  neck 
to  the  sagacity  of  these  hill-bred  animals  than  to  my  own 
pedestrian  exertions.  In  some  of  these  romantic,  and 


302  FLOWERS  AND  FRUITS. 

beautifully-wooded  valleys,  a  large  white-flowered  Convol- 
vulus, or  rather  Calystegia,  climbs  among  the  tangled 
thickets  in  the  wildest  luxuriance,  and,  mingling  its  pure 
blossoms  with  those  of  a  yellow-flowered  Hibiscus,  pro- 
duces quite  a  pleasing  effect. 

Among  the  Meia-co-shimah  Islands,  I  first  had  the 
curiosity  to  taste  the  fruit  of  the  Pandanus,  or  Screw- 
Pine,  and  found  it  refreshing  and  juicy,  but  very  insipid. 
When  perfectly  mature,  however,  they  certainly  look  very 
tempting,  and  resemble  large  rich-coloured  Pine- Apples. 
In  several  instances  I  found  the  interior  of  half-decayed 
fruits  filled  with  a  fermented,  subacid  liquor,  and  have  no 
doubt  that  a  decent  wine  might  be  manufactured  from 
the  pulp.  The  stones,  though  very  hard,  contain  a 
pleasant  kernel. 

A  large  yellow-flowered  Hibiscus  grows  in  vast  quanti- 
ties, offering  a  most  beautiful  spectacle  in  the  deep  woody 
gorges  of  Koo-kien-san.  In  the  young  shoots,  the  spiral 
vessels  resembling  spider-webs,  could  be  distinctly  seen 
with  the  naked  eye,  on  breaking  through  the  green  stems. 
On  the  open  plains,  a  small  Campanula  with  a  very  flat 
blue  corolla,  and  a  curious  flower,  with  white  tufts  on  the 
petals,  are  very  common. 

In  some  parts  of  Pa-tchung-san  we  passed  through 
large  masses  of  the  Canna  Indica,  with  red  and  yellow 
flowers,  sometimes  inclining  to  a  deep  orange,  producing 
a  very  beautiful  and  brilliant  effect,  and  near  the  villages 
the  Camelia  Japonica  attains  the  dimensions  of  a  large 
tree,  frequently  several  feet  in  diameter,  and  loaded  as 
it  was,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  with  handsome  red 
wax-like  blossoms,  it  imparts  a  very  gay  aspect  to  the 


UNION  OF  TEMPERATE  AND  TROPICAL  FORMS.       303 

scenery.  Groves  of  Guava  (Psidium  pyriferum)  and  a 
small  species  of  Orange,  contribute  materially  to  the  same 
end.  In  the  quiet  spots,  selected  for  the  interment  of 
the  dead,  the  Banyan 

spreads  her  arms 

Branching  so  broad  and  long,  that  in  the  ground 
The  bended  twigs  take  root,  and  daughters  grow 
About  the  mother  tree,  a  pillar'd  shade 
High  overarch'd,  and  echoing  walks  between. 

Paradise  Lost. 

The  sugar-cane  grows  sparingly,  and  is  accounted  a 
luxury  rather  than  a  necessary  of  life.  Altogether,  there 
is  a  strange  mingling  of  temperate  and  tropical  forms, 
both  in  the  Animal  and  Vegetable  Kingdoms,  among 
these  islands.  You  will  find  the  Violet  and  the  Rose 
the  Polygala  and  the  Marygold  growing  side  by  side  with 
the  Plantain,  the  Pepper  and  Pandanus ;  you  will  see  the 
Fire-fly,  and  the  Painted-Lady  Butterfly  occupying  the 
same  trees,  and  the  Centipede,  Theliphonus,  Scorpion, 
Opatrum,  and  Hister  under  the  same  stones.  The  Palms 
gradually  decrease  in  numerical  importance  and  diversity 
of  species,  as  you  recede  from  the  equatorial  line.  The 
Cocoa-nut  does  not  grow  much  beyond  the  twentieth  de- 
gree of  latitude ;  but  the  Pandanus,  or  Screw-Pine,  is 
apparently  the  most  hardy  of  them  all,  and  is  the  last  to 
disappear.  At  the  Island  of  Pa-tchung-san  I  found  the 
Musa  pamdisaica,  but  very  poor  and  small,  and  rarely 
producing  fruit;  the  Palmetto,  or  Pan-Palm,  (Borassus 
flabettiformis)  however,  seemed  to  thrive  very  well  in  the 
same  island,  and  is  used  by  the  natives  for  a  variety  of 
purposes,  particularly  in  the  manufacture  of  hats.  Among 
these  islands  I  found  the  long  Pepper  (Piper  longum) 


304  USEFUL  PLANTS. 

creeping  among  the  loose  stones  of  tombs,  in  wild  un- 
cultivated places,  and  the  red  globular  berries  of  the 
half-ripe  fruit,  formed  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  green 
foliage  of  the  trailing  Vines. 

The  Bamboo  (Arundo  Bambos)  grows  wild  in  large 
dense  brakes,  and  in  many  parts  the  plains  and  mountain- 
flanks  are  covered  with  Pine  forests,  the  trunks,  in  several 
cases,  being  chipped  away  by  the  natives  for  the  sake  of 
the  resinous  wood,  which  is  here  employed  as  candles, 
and  which  produces  a  bright,  strong,  clear  light.    They 
use,  likewise,  a  kind  of  light,  dry  wood,  as  slow-matches, 
binding  bundles  of  it  together  with  grass,  never  allowing 
it  once  to  be  extinguished  during  many  days.     In  nu- 
merous localities,  more  particularly  on  the  summits  of 
the  hills,  there  is  a  kind  of  Cryptogamic  plant,  with  a  soft 
green,  and  somewhat  gelatinous  thallm,  crumpled  and 
irregular  in  appearance,  which  is  eaten  by  the  poorer 
sorts  of  the  people.     A  kind  of  wild  Celery,  apparently 
the  same  as  our  Apium  graveolens,  is  likewise  employed 
by  them  as  an  agreeable  anthelniintic  and  stomachic. 
Yams  do  not  appear  to  be  known,  but  Sweet-Potatoes, 
Peas,  Turnips,  Carrots,  and  Radishes,  are  met  with  in 
large  quantities.    The  Cotton  plant  (Gossypium  Jtcrbaceum} 
is  cultivated  in   fields   in  many  parts  of  the  Mei'a-co- 
shimah  Group. 

You  will  see  darting  among  the  grass,  in  the  Islands 
of  the  Me'ia-co-shimahs,  a  very  elegant  and  beautiful 
little  Lizard,  with  the  throat  and  sides  tinged  with  a 
delicate  red,  and  five  bright  yellow  lines  running  along 
the  back,  the  central  line  dividing  at  the  junction  of 
the  head  and  neck,  and  again  uniting  at  the  apex  of 


SNAKES  AND  LIZARDS.  305 

the  muzzle.  The  dorsal  surface  is  black,  and  the  sides 
are  reddish-brown,  with  minute  dark  spots ;  the  belly  is 
of  a  light  dull  yellow,  the  legs  are  dark  brown  above,  and 
light  coloured  on  their  under  surface,  and  the  tail,  long 
and  tapering,  is  of  a  lively  and  brilliant  ultramarine  blue. 
This  pretty  little  Saurian  is  very  active  in  its  movements, 
frequenting  the  long  grass  and  undergrowth,  feeding  on 
Mies,  Locusts,  and  Caterpillars,  and,  in  its  turn,  very  fre- 
quently falling  a  prey  to  the  small  species  of  Viper  pecu- 
liar to  these  islands. 

The  Green  Turtle  (Chelonia  my  das),  notwithstanding 
the  inclemency  of  the  season,  was  seen  swimming  in  the 
tranquil  bays,  and  a  handsome  yellow  Hydrophis,  banded 
with  black,  was  also  met  with,  frequenting  the  rocky 
coasts,  hiding  in  holes  of  Corallines,  and  basking  on  the 
exposed  rocks.  It  swims  with  great  elegance,  and  dives 
with  facility. 

A  species  of  Trigonocephalm,  with  the  poison-fangs 
enormously  developed,  attains  here  to  a  very  large  size. 
A  small  Coluber  is  very  common;  and  a  handsome 
spotted  Tropidonotus  was  procured,  very  similar  to  the 
T.  natrix,  or  Ringed  Snake,  of  Europe. 

A  brilliant  green  Tree-Frog  (Hyla],  with  a  bright 
orange  abdomen,  is  found  on  the  margins  of  the  rivers, 
and  among  the  four  species  of  Lizards  I  noticed,  in- 
cluding the  blue-tailed  Zootica  and  the  Tacliysaurm 
Japonicus,  was  a  large  brown  species,  remarkable  for  its 
black  eyes,  the  golden  iris  being  very  narrow,  and 
entirely  concealed  by  the  eyelids.  The  Toad,  the  Tree- 
Frog,  the  Viper,  the  Lizard,  and  the  Snake,  assume 
nearly  the  same  form,  size,  and  colour,  that  we  observe 

VOL.  II.  X 


306  THE  DIODON. 

in  Europe ;  but  here  also  occur  forms,  like  the  Chelonia 
and  Triffonocephalus,  which  remind  you  that  these  regions 
are  connected  in  their  natural  productions,  with  the 
Islands  of  the  Archipelago  of  Malayan  Asia. 

Among  Fish,  a  species  of  Diodon  is  common  in  the 
bays  of  Pa-tchung-san  and  the  adjacent  islands.  The 
eye  of  this  singular  Fish  is  large,  with  a  black  pupil  and 
splendid  golden  iris ;  when  first  caught  it  bites  severely 
with  its  trenchant  teeth,  and  spits  at  those  who  approach 
it.  The  Diodon  swims  heavily,  and  at  the  bottom,  feeding 
on  small  Crustacea,  Shell-Fish,  and  Annelida ;  when 
irritated,  it  distends  its  mis-shapen  ugly  body,  and  when 
puffed  up  in  this  manner,  can,  with  difficulty,  make  pro- 
gress through  the  water.  I  have  seen  seamen  practise  a 
rather  cruel  experiment  on  the  poor  Diodon,  which  they 
term  "  sprit-sail-yarding."  This  consists  in  passing  a 
thin  piece  of  wood  across  the  skin  of  the  back,  which 
prevents  the  Fish  from  sinking,  and  at  the  same  time 
enables  it  to  make  use  of  its  fins ;  in  this  condition  the 
unfortunate  animal  progresses  through  the  water,  to  the 
great  edification  of  Jack,  who  laughs,  and  calls  it  his 
"  little  steamer !  " 

Octopi,  of  enormous  size,  are  occasionally  met  with 
among  the  Islands  of  the  Meia-co-shimah  Group.  I  mea- 
sured one,  which  two  men  were  bearing  on  their  shoulders 
across  a  pole,  and  found  each  brachium  rather  more  than 
two  feet  long,  giving  the  creature  the  power  of  exploring 
a  space  of  about  twelve  feet,  without  moving,  taking  the 
mouth  for  a  central  point,  and  the  ends  of  the  arms  for 
the  periphery.  Dorsal  plates  of  Sepia,  moreover,  are 
found  strewing  the  beaches,  a  foot  and  a  half  in  length. 
These  are  not  quite  so  monstrous,  however,  as  those  of  a 


CEPHALOPODS.  307 

certain  species  which  Trebius  Niger,  quoted  by  Pliny, 
mentions,  the  head  of  which  was  of  the  size  of  a  cask, 
the  brachia  each  thirty  feet  long,  and  the  death  of  which 
was  so  difficult  to  achieve.*  Pliny,  himself,  however, 
allows  that  in  the  Mediterranean  Loligincs  may  be  found 
five  cubits  in  length,  and  Sepia  two  !  Sir  Edward  Belcher 
informs  me  that  the  fishermen  of  Newfoundland  have  a 
legend  among  themselves,  that  the  backbone  of  a  Cuttle- 
Fish  was  once  found  lying  on  the  northern  shores,  as 
large  as  a  whale  !  Surely  the  living  owner  of  that  dorsal 
plate  must  have  been  the  famous  "  Kraken "  that  we 
remember  to  have  read  about !  On  moonlight  nights 
among  these  islands,  I  have  frequently  observed  the 
Sepia  and  Octopi  in  full  predatory  activity,  and  have  had 
considerable  trouble  and  difficulty  in  securing  them,  so 
great  is  their  restless  vivacity  at  this  time,  and  so  vigorous 
their  endeavours  to  escape.  They  dart  from  side  to  side 
of  the  pools,  or  fix  themselves  so  tenaciously  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  stones,  by  means  of  their  sucker-like  acetabula, 
that  it  requires  great  force  and  strength  to  detach  them. 
Even  when  removed,  and  thrown  upon  the  sand,  they 
progress  rapidly,  in  a  sidelong  shuffling  manner,  throwing 
about  their  long  arms,  ejecting  their  ink-like  fluid  in  sud- 
den violent  jets,  and  staring  about  with  their  big,  shining 
eyes  (which  at  night  appear  luminous,  like  a  cat's,)  in  a  very 
grotesque  and  hideous  manner.  The  natives  of  most  of  the 
islands  in  the  China  Seas  dry  these  Mollusks ;  as  likewise 
the  soft  parts  of  Haliotis,  Turbo,  Hippopus,  Tridacna,  &c., 
and  make  use  of  them  as  articles  of  food.  But  from  my 
little  experience  of  this  kind  of  diet,  notwithstanding  the 
*  Vide  Pliny,  Cap.  xxx.  Lib.  9. 

x  2 


308  MOLLUSKS  USED  AS  FOOD. 

assertion  of  the  learned  Bacon,  in  his  '  Experiment  solitary 
touching  Cuttle-ink,'  that  the  "  Cuttle  is  accounted  a 
delicate  meat,  and  is  much  in  request,"  *  I  should  say 
that  it  is  as  indigestible  and  innutritious,  as  it  is  certainly 
tough  and  uninviting.  Cephalopods,  however,  are  eaten 
at  the  present  day  on  some  parts  of  the  Mediterranean 
coast ;  and  in  Hampshire  I  have  seen  the  poor  people 
collect  assiduously  the  Sepia,  and  employ  them  as  food. 
Besides  using  a  small  kind  of  salted  beans,  the  natives  of 
the  Meia-co-shimahs  flavour  the  balls  of  Rice  and  of  Sweet- 
Potatoes,  which  constitute  the  principal  articles  in  their 
system  of  dietetics,  with  a  peculiar  composition,  very 
similar  in  taste  to  "  Blachong,"  the  universal  sauce  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Oriental  Archipelago,  a  substance 
made  out  of  decomposed  Shrimps  and  small  Fish,  fer- 
mented, and  dried  in  the  sun.  Notwithstanding  the 
proverbial  partiality  of  the  Japanese  for  Soy,  I  never  saw 
that  condiment  employed  at  any  of  the  entertainments 
of  the  Me'ia-co-shimites. 

The  common  Snail  of  the  Meia-co-shimahs  is  eaten  by 
the  natives,  as  the  Helix  aspersa  and  pomatia  are  occa- 
sionally in  Europe.  The  Malays  are  fond  of  the  Cerithium 
telescopmm  and  palustre,  found  in  the  Mangrove  swamps. 
They  throw  them  on  their  wood  fires,  and,  when  suffi- 
ciently cooked,  break  off  the  sharp  end  of  the  spire,  and 
suck  the  tail  of  the  animal  through  the  opening.  The 
Haliotis  is  taken  trom  the  shell,  dried  in  the  sun,  strung 
together  on  rattan,  and  is  eaten  raw  by  the  same  people. 

The  poorer  people  of  the  Philippines  are  fond  of  the 
Area  inequivalvis,  boiling  them  as  we  do  Cockles  and 
*  Works.  Nat.  Hist.  p.  167.  Bolm's  Ed. 


THEIR  MODES  OF  DEFENCE.  309 

Muscles;  the  flesh,  however,  is  red^and  very  bad-flavoured. 
Some  Monodonta,  which  I  have  eaten  among  the  Korean 
Islands,  are  quite  peppery,  and  bite  the  tongue,  pro- 
ducing the  same  unpleasant  effects  upon  that  organ,  as 
the  root  of  the  Arum  maculatum,  or  leaves  of  the  Taro, 
but  in  a  much  less  intense  degree ;  and  a  species  of  My- 
tilus,  found  in  the  same  locality,  has  very  similar  unpa- 
latable qualities. 

The  Paludina,  common  in  the  Padi  fields,  in  these 
islands,  escapes  detection,  by  covering  itself  over  with 
small  hard  masses  of  mud,  in  which  state  it  resembles 
those  turbinated  habitacula  of  the  larvae  of  some  fresh- 
water insect,  to  which  Swainson  has  applied  the  name 
Thelidomus,  conceiving  them  to  be  true  shells,  repre- 
senting, I  believe,  in  his  quinary  system,  the  genus 
Phorus.  This  peculiarity  of  the  Paludinas  did  not 
appear  to  me  to  be  accidental,  as  I  have  seen  shells  of  the 
same  genus  in  England,  Java,  and  elsewhere,  which  entirely 
wanted  the  very  peculiar  appearance  above  alluded  to,  and 
the  Lymneeas,  in  the  same  ponds,  were  not  muddier  than 
is  usual  with  those  shells.  All  Mollusks  have  certain 
means  of  avoiding  threatened  dangers.  The  Gasteropods 
withdraw  their  bodies  within  their  shells, 

As  the  snail,  whose  tender  horns  being  hit, 
Shrinks  backward  in  his  shelly  cave  with  pain, 
And  there,  all  smother'd  up,  in  shade  doth  sit, 
Long  after  fearing  to  creep  forth  again. — Shakspeare. 

The  Pteropods  contract  their  bodies  when  alarmed,  and 
sink  suddenly  to  the  bottom ;  the  Bivalves  close  their 
shells,  and  bid  defiance  to  the  enemy ;  the  Pholas  and 
Solen,  like  many  of  the  Cephalopods,  including  the 


310  ENEMIES  OF  MOLLUSCA. 

Cuttle-Fish  and  Loligo,  eject,  as  is  well  known,  a  coloured 
fluid,  and  so  escape  in  the  midst  of  the  clouded  water 
they  have  produced.  The  lanthina  and  Aplysice  have  the 
same  powers,  especially  the  large  Dolabella  Rumphii;  and 
the  Actinia  squirt  water  in  the  face  of  the  intruder,  as 
they  shrink  back  into  their  burrows. 

When  we  consider  how  very  numerous  the  enemies  of 
Molluscous  animals  are,  we  must  allow  they  have  much 
need  for  such  ingenious  modes  of  defence.  On  the  high 
seas  they  constitute  the  prey  of  Dolphins,  Cachelots,  and 
of  a  thousand  voracious  fishes,  besides  insatiate  Alba- 
trosses and  industrious  Petrels,  which  are  ever  on  the  alert 
to  capture  them.  Along  the  shores  they  are  snapped  up 
by  patient  Turnstones,  and  enterprising  Oyster-catchers ; 
and  in  fresh-water  ponds  they  become  the  lawful  prey 
of  Plovers,  and  all  those  other  birds  that  love  oozy 
watery  haunts.  Terrestrial  Mollusca  find  enemies,  even 
among  insects,  many  Silpkida  attacking  and  destroying 
them  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Hydropliili  and  other 
Philhydrida  prey  upon  and  devour  the  Pahdinas  and 
Lymnteas,  among  aquatic  genera. 

The  list  of  genera  of  fresh-water  shells  in  these  islands 
is  limited,  as  far  as  my  experience  goes,  to  Paludina, 
Lymnaa,  and  Assimincea ;  no  Succinece,  Neritinae,  Pla- 
norbes,  Ampullarite  or  Melanits  were  observed  by  us. 
The  land-shells  were  Helix,  Pupa,  Clausilia,  Truncatella, 
Carocotta,  and  Cydostoma. 

In  the  shallow  pools  left  by  the  receding  tide  on  the 
shore  of  Koo-kien-san,  one  of  these  islands,  I  discovered 
a  large  species  of  Dorididce,  which  appears  to  be  the  type 
of  a  new  genus,  differing  from  all  the  other  genera  of  the 


REMARKABLE  MARINE  SLUG.  311 

family,  in  having  the  vent  and  the  gills,  which  are  extruded 
from  it,  situated  beneath  the  edge  of  the  mantle,  which 
latter  is  extended  beyond  the  circumference  of  the  foot, 
while  in  all  the  other  genera,  as  far  as  I  am  aware  of, 
the  vent  and  gills  are  situated  on  the  mantle  itself.  This 
genus  may  be  called  Hypobranchaa,  and  will  be  figured 
in  the  *  Zoology  of  the  Samarang/  now  in  course  of  pub- 
lication. The  species  (H.  fmca,  Adams,)  resembles  in 
appearance  a  large,  flat,  sandy-coloured  Slug,  and  crawls 
along  in  a  slow  and  languid  manner  over  the  sandy  sur- 
face. Owing  to  its  exact  resemblance  in  colour  and 
appearance  to  the  floor  on  which  it  lives,  it  is  well  calcu- 
lated to  escape  the  notice  of  many  of  its  enemies.  My 
specimen  was  mutilated  by  a  spade  in  the  hands  of  a 
seaman,  owing  to  this  circumstance,  and  although  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  the  foot  and  mantle  was  removed, 
such  was  the  tenacity  of  the  life  of  the  animal  that  it 
crawled  away  apparently  as  if  uninjured. 

Two  of  the  most  remarkable  Crustaceans  to  be  met 
with  in  this  Group,  are  the  Scopimera  globosa  of  De  Haan, 
and  the  Mycteris  deflemfrons,  of  the  same  naturalist. 
The  Scopimera  globosa  forms  burrows  in  the  muddy 
banks  and  sandflats,  just  above  low-water  mark,  per- 
forating the  surface  in  every  direction.  In  some  parts  of 
Koo-kien-san,  these  Crabs  are  so  numerous  that  they 
impart  a  peculiar  colour  to  the  shores  when  seen  at  a 
little  distance.  They  walk  but  slowly,  and  are  very  in- 
active in  their  habits.  When  disturbed,  they  make 
awkward  efforts  to  get  out  of  sight,  by  quickly  burying 
themselves  in  the  sandy  mud  like  some  Macrophthalmi. 

IftiQMycterisdeflcxifrons,  although  somewhat  resembling 


312  SINGULAR  CRUSTACEANS. 

Ocypodesin.  many  particulars,  yet  differ  materially  from  them 
in  vivacity  of  movement.  Like  their  swift-footed  consimi- 
lars,  however,  they  form  superficial  burrows  in  the  sandy 
mudflats,  into  which  they  retreat  in  a  clumsy,  scrambling 
manner,  on  the  approach  of  danger.  In  many  parts  of 
the  Meia-co-shimahs  I  have  ridden  over  many  acres  of 
sandy  mud,  covered  with  these  bright  blue  Crabs,  and  on 
looking  behind  could  perceive  a  dark  straight  line,  made 
by  the  passage  of  the  horse,  as  he  caused  them  to  burrow 
in  the  mud,  in  his  progress  onwards.  They  seem  to 
enjoy  themselves  just  after  the  water  has  left  the  flats  dry, 
and  appear  then  to  be  most  on  the  alert  in  procuring 
food. 

There  is  a  species  of  Gelasimus  allied  to  G.  Chloroph- 
thalmus  (Edwards),  with  a  bright  orange  foot-claw  bigger 
than  its  body,  which  inhabits  burrows,  formed  among  the 
grass,  in  muddy  places  near  the  sea,  and  among  the 
poorer  classes  the  Ocypode  ceratophthalma  is  collected  as 
food.  They  dig  them  out  of  their  deep  sandy  burrows 
with  great  eagerness  and  diligence,  by  means  simply  of 
their  hands.  I  have  seen  them  sometimes  drive  them 
out  by  insinuating  a  long  pliant  twig  into  the  winding 
labyrinth  of  the  crab,  and  so  forcing  its  inmate  to  make 
its  appearance.  I  have  known  them  also,  where  the 
ground  was  hard,  pour  water  into  the  holes,  and  so  in- 
undate the  poor  Ocypode.  These  people,  by  examining 
certain  marks,  can  tell  whether  the  swift-footed  inhabitant 
is  at  home  or  abroad,  and  conduct  their  operations  ac- 
cordingly. 

On  the  flat  sandy  beaches  of  this  group  of  islands,  if 
you  take  the  trouble  to  turn  over  the  stones  which  the 


HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS.  313 

tide  has  left  dry,  you  will  perceive  hundreds  of  Porcellante, 
flattened  Crabs,  shuffling  along  the  surface  of  the  upturned 
stones  in  a  very  ludicrous  manner.  They  are  very  active 
and  bustling  in  their  habits.  This  observation,  however,  ap- 
plies more  particularly  to  P.pulchripes  (Adams  and  White) 
and  the  species  allied  to  it ;  for  another  species,  P.  versi- 
mana,  (Adams  and  White)  is  found  among  the  coral  reefs  of 
Koo-kien-san,  and  is  apathetic  and  indolent,  and  P.  o&e- 
sula  (Adams  and  White)  was  dredged  from  twenty-four 
fathoms  in  the  Sooloo  Sea,  and  was  very  sluggish  in  its 
movements.  A  very  rare  and  delicate  little  Crab  was 
ascertained  by  me  to  belong  to  the  fauna  of  this  group, 
namely,  the  Mamena  unguiformis  of  De  Haan.  It  is 
spider-like  in  its  appearance,  slow  in  its  movements,  and 
lurks  concealed  in  holes  of  the  under-surface  of  stones 
immediately  below  high- water  mark.  I  discovered,  also, 
a  species  of  Calappa,  allied  to  C.  spinocissima,  under 
stones,  in  the  shallow  sandy  bays,  which  covers  itself  with 
sand,  and  when  captured  feigns  death,  remaining  per- 
fectly motionless  with  all  its  members  snugly  tucked 
under  the  carapace,  and  the  chelae  folded  on  the  front  of 
the  shell.  It  is  a  timid  and  slow-moving  creature. 

A  new  species  of  Alphceus,  a  curious  looking  shrimp- 
like  animal,  which  inhabits  pools  under  stones  on  sandy 
beaches,  and  when  disturbed  makes  a  sharp  loud  clicking 
noise,  by  snapping  the  foot-claws,  likewise  rewarded  our 
research.  In  the  Padi  fields,  a  species  of  Gecarcinus, 
allied  to  G.  laterals,  is  very  common,  running  about  in 
all  directions,  feeding  on  the  larvae  of  Dragon-flies  and 
other  insects,  and  becoming,  in  its  turn,  the  prey  of  the 
large  Herons  that  are  always  to  be  seen  fishing  for  Frogs 


314  HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS. 

in  those  localities.  To  these  may  be  added  new  species 
of  Hippa,  Remipes,  Trapezia,  Macrophthalmns,  Pilumnus 
and  others,  which  will  be  described  in  another  place. 

In  many  parts,  these  islands  are  over-run  with  various 
kinds  of  Sesarma,  the  species  of  which  differ  very  much 
in  their  habits.  Among  those  I  detected  as  belonging  to 
the  Fauna  of  the  Meia-co-shimah  Group,  one  was  found 
under  stones,  on  sandy  flats  just  below  high- water  mark; 
another  inhabited  the  coral  reefs ;  a  third,  fresh- water 
rivulets  and  pools,  hiding  under  stones  and  logs,  and 
climbing  the  roots  of  trees  with  great  facility.  Another, 
allied  to  8.  affinis,  De  Haan,  has  the  same  habits ;  another 
species,  with  the  same  love  of  climbing  and  hiding  under 
stones,  runs  more  upon  the  dry  land,  among  the  roots  of 
grass,  &c.,  and  is  very  agile.  One,  of  a  marbled,  light 
sandy  colour,  with  pale  grey  blotches,  lives  in  the  holes 
of  the  sand,  in  brackish  pools ;  another,  with  a  hairy 
carapace,  dark  brown  and  purple,  inhabits  holes  in  the 
sandy  beach  above  high-water  mark ;  while  in  another 
part  of  the  world,  I  found  a  species  living  in  fresh-water 
rivulets  among  weeds;  and  in  the  forest  of  Celebes 
another  under  damp  stones  and  logs,  at  some  consider- 
able distance  from  fresh-water  ponds. 

Most  of  the  Dorippe  inhabit  deep  water,  from  twenty 
to  thirty  fathoms,  living  on  a  muddy  bottom.  They  are 
very  numerous  in  the  China  Sea.  The  Chinese  fishermen 
often  bring  them  up  in  their  nets,  and  among  large 
numbers  which  I  have  observed  in  their  boats,  I  have 
found  nearly  every  individual  with  an  adventitious  body 
(I  believe  an  alcyonoid  sponge)  attached  to  the  carapace, 
and  retained  in  its  position  by  the  hooks  of  the  two  small 


CONTINUED.  315 

posterior  dorsal  pairs  of  legs.  This  body  is  divisible  into 
a  thin  brown  layer,  with  concentric  fibres,  and  an  ex- 
ternal, white  lamina,  with  radiating  fibres,  and  a  dark 
central  nucleus.  I  have  frequently  noticed  precisely  the 
same  peculiarity  in  Dromia  verrucosipes,  in  the  Meia-co- 
shimah  Group,  and  I  believe  naturalists  have  perceived 
the  same  habit  among  other  genera.  Many  of  the  spe- 
cimens both  of  Dorippe  and  of  Dromia  which  I  examined 
in  this  condition,  had  perfectly  soft  carapaces,  and  this 
body  may  serve  them  as  a  protection  during  the  season 
of  their  moulting  The  Caphyra  pectenicola  (White)  bears 
a  small  pecten  shell,  in  a  similar  manner.  This  curious 
little  Crustacean,  which  was  dredged  by  us  in  the  Sunda 
Straits  from  thirteen  fathoms,  takes  up  its  abode  in  the 
deepest  valve  of  the  deserted  Pecten,  locking  itself  on  by 
the  claws  of  its  posterior  legs  to  the  ears  of  the  shell,  its 
tender  back  being  secured  from  harm  by  this  adventitious 
covering.  Sir  E.  Belcher  informs  me  that  he  discovered 
another  species  in  the  Gulf  of  Papagaya,  inhabiting  the 
single  valve  of  a  Terebratula,  which  was  in  a  partially 
softened  condition. 

Many  other  genera,  as  Hyas,  Maia,  Arctopsis,  Mithrax 
and  Pericera,  are  well  known  to  have  similar  propensities, 
loading  their  backs  with  foreign  bodies,  Sponges,  Algae, 
and  other  Phytozooic  and  vegetable  productions. 

On  the  summits  of  the  hills  near  the  sea-coast  of  many 
of  these  islands,  and  particularly  on  those  of  Koo-kien- 
san,  I  procured  numerous  Talitri  and  Gammari  from 
among  the  roots  of  the  long  damp  grass ;  rather  a  re- 
markable circumstance,  as  these  Crustaceans  are  usually 
found  close  to  the  margin  of  the  sea,  concealing  them- 


316  HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS. 

selves  under  stones  and  sea-weed.  They  were  jumping 
about  in  all  directions,  and  appeared  to  wage  a  continual 
war,  not  only  with  hundreds  of  Tropidinoti  and  other 
Orthopterous  insects,  but  with  a  bark  brown  Carabideous 
insect,  which  was  found  running  with  great  rapidity 
among  them,  evidently  bent  on  destruction. 

The  Cliarybdis  miles  of  De  Haan  was  swimming  and 
shuffling  about  in  the  shallow  water  of  the  flat,  sandy 
beach,  proving  a  very  troublesome  companion  to  those 
seamen  who  were  bare-footed,  on  account  of  the  very 
long,  large,  sharp  spiny  powerful  claws,  with  which  they 
are  furnished ;  for  although  they  fold  the  chelae  on  the 
forepart  of  the  carapace,  and  contract  their  legs  when 
caught,  they  would  dart  among  the  legs  of  the  boat's 
crew,  and  inflict  rather  severe  scratches.  As,  however, 
they  were  large,  and  fit  for  the  pot,  this  was  considered  a 
mere  trifle  by  honest,  hungry  Jack. 

On  one  occasion,  I  was  very  much  surprised  and  de- 
lighted, as  we  were  sitting  in  a  circle  with  the  natives 
around  a  large  wood  fire,  to  see  some  young  boys  bring 
in  several  large  Crabs,  having  their  chelae,  or  foot-claws, 
covered  in  a  very  remarkable  manner,  with  a  quantity  of 
coarse  silky  hair,  so  very  dense  and  thick  that  they  more 
resembled  rabbits'  feet  than  the  claws  of  a  Crustaceous 
animal.  These  curious  Crabs,  which  were  the  Eriocheir 
Japonicus  of  De  Haan,  were  immediately,  even  before 
I  could  rescue  a  specimen,  thrown  upon  the  embers 
alive,  and  when  burnt  crisp  and  brown,  broken  by  the 
teeth  of  the  assembled  islanders,  and  consumed,  with  a 
few  exceptions,  shell  and  all.  They  appeared  very  much  to 
relish  this  primitive,  and  somewhat  savage  kind  of  feast, 


CRABS  AND  INSECTS.  317 

Among  the  new  and  interesting  Crustacea  met  with 
by  us  on  the  coasts,  were  numerous  species  of  Leucosice. 
These  handsomely-marked  creatures  generally  affect  a 
sandy  bottom,  and  live  at  considerable  depths  among 
Corallines  and  Madrepores.  They  are  seldom  found  in 
muddy  or  turbid  water,  but  love  the  deep  sandy  banks, 
where  they  move  in  a  sluggish  manner,  and  seem  desti- 
tute of  acute  perceptions.  Sufficiently  protected  by  their 
porcelain  shields,  they  want  the  quick  progression  and 
threatening  attitudes  assumed  by  many  Crustaceans. 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  species  is  the  Leucosia 
hoematosticta  (Adams  and  White),  which  is  of  a  dead 
white  colour,  covered  with  numerous  round  crimson  spots. 

Among  the  Orthoptera  noticed  by  us  among  the  islands 
was  an  apparently  new  genus,  between  Tropidinotus  and 
Teratodes,  beautifully  marbled  with  crimson,  brown,  and 
yellow;  a  Phyttoptera,  of  a  dirty,  dull,  green  colour, 
having  four  dark  spots  on  each  elytron ;  a  Mantis,  of  a 
light  brown  colour ;  and  a  large  species  of  Phasma ;  thus 
again  illustrating  the  curious  intermixture  of  temperate 
and  tropical  forms,  even  among  the  world  of  insects. 
One  of  the  most  common  Hemiptera  was  a  genus  of  Cori- 
cidce,  of  a  delicate  emerald  green,  with  two  bright  golden 
spots  on  the  body.  A  genus  of  Orthoptera,  allied  to 
Truxalis,  but  with  the  antennae,  nearly  cylindrical,  and 
the  head  not  so  much  produced,  was  a  common  inhabi- 
tant of  the  grassy  summits  of  the  hills. 

There  is  a  large  and  handsome  Glow-worm  (Lampyris) 
which  hides,  during  the  daytime,  under  dead  leaves  and 
stones  ;  but  which  is  beautifully  luminous  during  the 
night.  The  penultimate  segment,  slightly  gibbous,  con- 


318  THE  CENTIPEDE. 

stitutes  a  bilobate  lamp  of  great  brilliancy,  emitting  a 
much  yellower  light  than  the  generality  of  this  tribe. 
It  has  a  voluntary  power  of  suppressing  or  evolving 
the  shining  property  of  its  lantern,  and  when  handled, 
feigns  death,  at  the  same  time  hiding  its  light,  until  the 
danger  is  passed.  There  are  yellow  non-luminous  spots 
on  all  the  other  segments,  and  the  upper  part  of  the  body 
is  dark  brown,  approaching  to  black.  The  legs  are 
brown,  with  the  exception  of  the  distal  ends  of  the  femur 
and  the  tarsus,  which  are  of  a  lighter  colour.  The  head 
is  furnished  with  a  retractile  proboscis,  having  a  yellow 
sheath. 

The  Centipede  of  this  group  lays  her  eggs  under  flat 
stones,  to  the  number  of  about  twelve  or  fourteen.  They 
are  of  a  semi-transparent  straw  colour,  and  the  female 
coils  herself  around  them  like  a  snake.  In  the  egg,  the 
young  one  is  pale,  transparent,  light-yellow,  perfectly 
globular,  with  a  slit  or  mark  like  the  hilum  of  a  seed ; 
this  slit  afterwards  forms  a  deep  furrow,  and  then  a  wide 
fissure,  one  side  of  which  is  somewhat  more  produced 
and  becomes  the  head,  and  the  other,  folded  inwards,  is 
the  tail  and  remainder  of  the  body.  A  large  dark  spot 
then  appears  on  each  side  of  the  head,  which  are  the  eyes, 
and  three  short  legs  protrude  from  the  skin  towards  the 
anterior  part  of  the  body.  Immediately  after  their  ex- 
trusion from  the  egg,  the  helpless  young  are  nearly  pellu- 
cid and  yellowish,  with  great  black  eyes,  rounded  bodies, 
big  heads,  and  rudimental  legs ;  the  segments  are  but 
faintly  marked,  and  the  little  animal  is  bent  upon  itself  like 
a  larva  of  a  Cockchafer  ;  the  antennae  show  themselves  by 
degrees,  the  other  members  make  their  appearance,  and, 


SPIDERS  AND  SCORPIONS.  319 

as  well  as  the  body,  become  distinctly  articulated ;  the 
integument  becomes  hard  and  opaque,  and  the,  as  yet, 
harmless  little  insect  crawls  about,  languidly  at  first,  but 
afterwards  more  briskly.  The  mother  appears  as  atten- 
tive to  her  offspring  as  an  Earwig ;  and  as  jealous  of 
their  safety,  as  a  hen  over  that  of  her  chickens. 

There  is  a  small  Scolopendra,  with  equal-sized  segments, 
of  a  dull  violet  colour,  found  under  stones  in  these  islands, 
and  another  small  species  perfectly  black. 

The  small  Scorpion  found  in  rotten  wood,  under  bark, 
and  under  stones,  is  of  a  delicate  form,  and  is,  I  believe,  a 
species  of  Androctonus.  There  is  another  darker  and 
larger  kind,  found  also,  but  more  rarely,  under  stones, 
that  appears  almost  identical  with  the  Scorpio  Europam, 
Although  held  in  great  abhorrence  by  the  natives,  neither 
of  these  Scorpions  possesses  much  venom,  as  I  had  the 
misfortune  to  be  stung  by  one  species,  and  one  of  the 
boat's  crew  by  the  other. 

The  Spiders  of  the  Me'ia-co-shimah  Islands  exhibit 
some  very  remarkable  forms.  There  is  a  curious  Epeira, 
with  the  dorsal  surface  of  the  abdomen  furnished  with  a 
radiated  crown  of  hard  pointed  processes,  and  the  epider- 
mis richly  painted  with  brown  and  gold.  It  spins  a 
large  and  regular  web  in  every  brake  and  bush. 

Another  large  and  singular  Spider,  with  long,  slender 
legs,  and  an  elongated  body,  black,  and  marked  with 
yellow  lunules  and  patches,  crawls  among  the  foliage  of 
the  trees  in  the  low  woods  that  occur  in  some  parts  of 
Pa-tchung-san.  Another  species  of  the  same  genus  is 
altogether  black.  I  noticed  this  kind  also  in  the  Bashee 
Islands. 


320  SUBMARINE  SCENERY. 

The  Theliphonus  caudatus,  a  curious  osculating  link 
between  the  Scorpions  and  Tarantulas,  is  not  uncommon 
in  the  islands.  It  remains  concealed  generally  under 
logs  of  wood  and  stones,  and  seems  to  love  dark,  damp 
forests  as  the  seat  of  its  depredations,  living  in  the  society 
of  the  larvae  of  Glow-worms,  the  Scorpions,  the  JScolo- 
pendra,  and  a  dingy  coloured  species  of  Blatta.  It  is 
slow  in  its  movements,  and  when  alarmed  raises  its 
stingless  tail  in  a  threatening  manner,  but  never  at- 
tempts to  use  its  chelicerae,  as  organs  of  aggression  or  of 
defence. 

I  am  aware  that  persons  have  been  accused  of  allowing 
their  imagination  to  trifle  too  freely  with  the  reins,  in 
describing  submarine  scenery;  but  I  shall  simply  state  the 
matter  as  I  found  it,  and  in  language  that  came  freely  on 
the  spot,  and  educed  from  first  impressions.  Dendritic 
Zoophytes,  with  their  slender  branches  loaded  with  in- 
numerable richly  coloured  polypi,  like  trees  covered  with 
delicate  blossoms,  uprose  from  the  clear  clean  bottom  of 
the  bay,  distinct  and  characteristic  in  their  specific  forms, 
and  contrasting  strangely  and  powerfully  with  those  most 
apathetic  and  stone-like  combinations  of  the  plant,  the 
animal  and  the  rock,  the  Madrepores,  the  Millepores,  and 
the  Nullipores.  Flat,  and  immovably  extended  on  the  sand, 
in  the  bare  spots  between  the  Corallines,  were  impassive 
large  blue  five-fingered  Asterias ;  and  crawling  with  an 
awkward  shuffling  movement,  like  an  Octopus,  were  num- 
bers of  the  slender  Ophiuri,  with  their  snaky  arms,  groping 
their  way  among  the  weeds,  and  striving  to  insinuate  their 
writhing  forms  beneath  the  coral  masses.  Fixed  flower- 
like  Actinia  were  expanding  their  fleshy  petals  on  the 


CONTINUED.  321 

rocks ;  the  slender  Nereis  •  the  long-armed  Comatula, 
and  the  languid,  slow-moving  Holothuria,  together  with 
numerous  fish  and  Crustaceans,  contributed  to  prove 
that  nature  is  ever  weaving  the  subtle  woof  of  existence 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  waves. 


VOL.  II 


322 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  PHILIPPINE  ARCHIPELAGO. 

Anecdote  of  a  Python — Exploration  of  Sesarma — Curious  Cavern — 
A  ramble  about  Samboanga — Villages — Scenery — Vegetation — 
Aborigines  of  Mindanao — The  Flying-Fox — Remarkable  Crabs — 
Habits  of  Spiders — Insects — Mindoro — Hostility  of  the  Natives 
— Use  of  the  bow  and  arrow — Ylin — Poisonous  Plant — Insects — 
Habits  of  Molluscous  Animals. 

ON  the  4th  of  February,  1844,  we  left  Koo-kien-san, 
one  of  the  Meia-co-shimah  Group,  and  arrived  at  Manila 
on  the  16th  of  March,  where  we  remained  until  the  1st 
of  April.  While  lying  in  the  truly  delightful  bay  at  this 
place,  a  trifling  incident  occurred,  showing  the  extreme 
vivacity,  and  rapidity  of  movement,  in  the  larger  Serpents, 
even  in  those  of  the  Boa  tribe,  especially  when  first  captured. 
They  are,  indeed,  then  very  different  from  those  apathetic 
listless  monsters  one  sees  coiled  up  in  blankets,  at  Zoolo- 
gical Gardens,  and  in  Menageries.  Sir  Edward  Belcher 
had  a  very  beautiful  specimen  of  the  Python  Schneideri 
presented  to  him,  about  twelve  feet  long,  and  having  one 
day  given  it  a  chicken,  the  reptile,  as  usual,  compressed 
it  nearly  to  death,  within  the  muscular  folds  of  its  body, 
when  one  of  the  bystanders,  more  tender-hearted  than 


ANECDOTE  OF  A  PYTHON.  323 

the  rest,  begged  the  life  of  the  fowl.  Ihad  no  sooner, 
however,  introduced  my  arm  with  that  benevolent  inten- 
tion, than  throwing  back  its  head,  and  unwinding  its 
body  from  its  prey,  "  the  spirited,  sly  snake,"  as  Milton 
would  have  termed  it,  darted  at  my  hand  with  the 
greatest  velocity,  and  held  me  fast  with  its  teeth,  by  the 
ball  of  the  thumb,  nor  was  it  without  some  trouble,  that 
I  was  able  to  extricate  myself,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the 
long,  sharp,  curved  teeth  of  a  serpent,  all  point  backwards. 
Some  time  after  this  event,  the  death-warrant  of  the 
poor  reptile  was  sealed,  and  I  appointed  myself  his  exe- 
cutioner. The  question  was  how  to  persuade  a  snake  so 
large  and  active,  to  enter  a  stone  jar,  filled  with  spirits  of 
wine,  without  making  a  vigorous  resistance.  However, 
quickly  seizing  it  by  the  neck,  I  drew  the  reptile  from 
its  cage,  and  had  his  body  held  down  by  a  party  of  volun- 
teers. The  muscular  contractions,  however,  proved  some- 
what too  powerful  for  their  weight  and  strength,  and  the 
caudal  end  escaping  wound  itself  about  my  leg,  which, 
perhaps,  would  have  got  a  squeeze,  but  for  an  accession 
to  our  force,  in  the  person  of  my  friend  Mr.  Charles 
Richards.  "  Vi  et  armis,"  the  doomed  serpent  was  now 
consigned,  without  mercy,  to  a  death  somewhat  similar 
to  that  selected  by  a  certain  duke  of  Clarence. 

If  the  enormous  Boa-Constrictors  described  by  Pliny 
as  warring  against  the  Elephants  of  India,  with  perpetual 
discord,  "tantae  magnitudinis,  ut  circumplexu  facile 
ambiant  nexuque  nodi  praestringant,"  were  as  lively  in 
their  movements  as  our  Python  of  Leuconia,  they  must 
indeed  have  been  "  dragons  "  in  every  sense  of  the  ex- 
pression ! 

Y  2 


324  EXPLORATION  OF  SESARMA. 

Schlegel,  in  his  '  Physiognomy  of  Serpents/  observes, 
in  a  note  p.  98,  "  Professor  Reinwardt  has  witnessed,  at 
Java,  a  spectacle  which  proves  that  it  is  not  always  right 
to  trust  to  these  animals  (Boas).  A  Javanese  had  carried 
to  the  house  of  M.  Van  der  Capelle,  a  large  Python,  and 
wishing  to  make  it  come  out  of  the  basket  in  which  it 
was,  the  serpent,  by  a  single  stroke,  gave  him  a  very  con- 
siderable wound,  laying  open  his  fore-arm  through  all  its 
length." 

On  the  1st  of  April  we  left  Manila,  and  on  the  5th 
examined  the  reefs  about  Panagatan,  and  while  here 
examined  the  small  island  of  Sesarma. 

We  passed  a  very  agreeable  day,  wandering  about 
collecting  plants,  catching  insects,  and  hunting  lizards, 
until  we  were  fairly  tired  out,  and  then  reclining  at  our 
ease,  took  a  siesta  in  a  cool  cave,  which  we  accidentally 
discovered  in  the  rocks  along  the  sea-shore.  This  cavern 
had  a  very  narrow  entrance,  but  when  once  you  had 
found  your  way  into  the  interior,  there  was  a  high,  arched 
roof,  with  numerous  stalactites  hanging  pendent  from  it, 
and,  arising  from  the  bottom,  stalagmites  of  various 
shapes  and  sizes ;  myriads  of  dark  flitting  bats  fluttered 
in  the  uncertain  light,  vibrating  their  leathery  wings  with 
a  low,  murmuring  sound,  while  others  clung  in  huge, 
dark  clusters  to  the  chasms  in  the  roof;  the  calcareous 
floor  of  the  cavern  was  whitened  with  the  accumulated 
excrement  of  these  twilight-loving  animals.  As  nothing 
is  to  be  done  in  these  expeditions  without  lighting  a  fire, 
I  assembled  the  jolly-boat  boys,  left  under  my  command, 
and,  with  incredible  labour,  brought  together  a  vast  heap 
of  drift  wood,  dried  leaves  and  grass,  which  soon  became 


SAMBOANGA.  325 

a  blaze,  and  illuminated  gloriously  the  interior  of  our 
cavern ;  but,  alas !  short-sighted  mortals  that  we  were, 
forgetting  the  necessity  of  a  chimney,  and  the  aperture 
being  small,  we  were  completely  smoked  out,  to  our  no 
small  discomfort. 

On  the  6th  of  April  we  touched  at  the  Cagayanes,  and 
on  the  8th  we  anchored  off  Zamboangan,  or  Samboanga, 
a  penal  settlement  of  the  Spaniards  on  the  Island  of 
Mindanao,  or  Majindanao,  as  it  is  sometimes  written,  and 
notwithstanding  the  somewhat  equivocal  character  of  many 
of  its  inhabitants,  one  of  the  most  pleasing  places  we 
visited  among  the  Philippines,  a  few  observations  on 
which  may  not  be  displeasing  to  my  readers.  Owing  to 
the  kindness  of  Sir  Edward,  and  the  liberality  of  the 
Governor,  I  was  enabled  to  enjoy  a  very  pleasant  little 
excursion,  of  several  days,  in  the  neighbouring  country. 
Mounted  on  an  excellent  horse  (which,  however,  on 
starting,  managed  to  rear  so  high  as  to  fall  backwards 
upon  me,  without  doing  me  much  injury,  as  I  had  time 
to  slip  away  before  his  hoofs  could  reach  me,)  and  ac- 
companied by  a  very  intelligent  guide,  one  Mariano 
Alvirez,  I  proceeded,  at  an  easy  pace,  through  the  villages 
of  Varris  el  San  Juadedios,  Tesseros,  Carielar,  Caritador, 
Prenza,  Santa  Maria,  Tumogan,  Paraguiaba,  Voal,  Lama- 
Lama,  Tirando-alerte,  and,  lastly,  Tugbugan,  admiring 
in  my  progress  the  wild  luxuriance  of  vegetable  life  in 
these  latitudes,  here  spread  out  in  all  its  prodigality,  in 
the  form  of  splendid  trees  and 

"  flowers  as  wild  and  fair 
As  ever  dressed  a  bank  or  scented  summer  air." 

Here  and  there  the  naked,   muddy  skins  of  large-bodied 


326  PLANTS 

Buffaloes  were  seen  wallowing  in  weedy  ponds,  or  browsing 
placidly  among  the  bamboo  mazes,  or,  with  enduring 
patience,  engaged  in  drawing  burdens ;  here  and  there, 
at  various  turnings,  quaintly  carved  and  antique  wooden 
crosses  would  remind  you  of  being  in  a  Catholic,  though 
savage  country,  while  the  open  hospitality  of  the  villagers, 
and  the  vows  of  brotherhood  and  eternal  friendship  prof- 
fered you  in  every  direction,  brought  to  mind  the  prodigal 
liberality  of  their  noble-minded  Spanish  subjugators. 

It  would  be  endless  to  enumerate  all  of  the  botanical 
beauties  of  Samboanga,  but  the  handsome  scarlet  flowers 
of  the  Poinciana,  the  feathery  foliage  of  the  Tamarind, 
the  grateful  Guava,  and  the  Palms,  those  "  magnificent 
offspring  of  Tellus  and  Phaebus ;  "  the  agreeable  subacid 
fruit  of  the  Tambeio,  the  large  dense  foliage  "of  the  Bread- 
fruit, and  the  aromatic  Lime  and  Orange,  were  all  worthy 
of  the  passing  notice  of  the  student  of  nature. 

To  these  may  be  added  the  Bugo,  or  Piper  Betel, 
climbing  gracefully  in  the  gardens ;  with  its  less  illus- 
trious compeer  the  Sanquilo  (P.  obliquurti),  the  Dyospyros 
embriopteris,  or  Luya,  the  Mango  {Mangifera  Indicd), 
ihGLumboi(Calyptrant/tes),  theBixa,  or  Achote;  another 
species  of  Dyospyros,  called  by  the  natives  "  Mabolo ;  " 
the  Balibago,  a  kind  of  Hibiscus,  the  Balod,  or  Nauclea, 
the  Tubadalag,  or  Callicarpa,  and  the  luxuriant  groves  of 
the  Caurayan,  or  Bambusa  ;  the  graceful  hanging  foliage, 
and  brilliant  berries  of  the  Abrus  precatoria,  the  lofty 
trunk,  and  stupendous  pods  of  the  Cassia  yrandis,  the 
long  and  pendent  fruit  of  the  singular  Stravadium  album, 
the  bell-shaped  flowers  of  the  succulent  viviparous-leaved 
Bryophyllum  calyc'mum,  the  elegant  climbing  Clitoria  ler- 


CONTINUED.  327 

nata,  with  its  large  blue  butterfly-flowers ;  the  white  and 
purple  blossoms  of  the  Cleome  viscosa,  the  golden  Coreopsis, 
adhering  like  a  parasite  to  the  trees,  and  twining  epiphytic 
Loranthi ;  the  compound  leaves  and  yellow  spikes  of  the 
medicinal  Cassia  alata,  and  along  the  sea-beach  the  tre- 
foil leaves  and  the  blue  flowers  of  the  Vitex  trifolia,  the 
clustering  trunks  of  the  Banyan  tree,  and  the  golden 
downy  fronds  of  a  gigantic  fern.  I  did  not  fail  to  recog- 
nize the  Gogo  (Entada  pwrsathd),  an  infusion  of  the 
spongy  fibres  of  the  trunk  of  which,  is  used  by  the  natives 
for  various  affections  of  the  skin,  and  which  I  have  also  seen 
employed  with  some  advantage.  The  pods  of  the  Theo- 
broma  cacao  were  ripening  on  the  trees.  A  most  delicious 
chocolate  is  manufactured  at  Samboanga  from  the  seeds; 
many  parts  of  the  plant  are  also  used  medicinally.  The 
glutinous  sap  of  the  Bombax  pentandrum  is  here  applied 
to  parts  affected  by  Rheumatism,  and  the  cottony  seeds 
are  used  as  soporific  pillows,  like  those  famous  poppy 
ones  of  Somnus.  The  down,  moreover,  forms  an  excellent 
moxa. 

The  fresh  fruit  of  the  Butong  (Barringtonia  speciosa) 
is  bruised  and  thrown  into  the  water  to  benumb  fish  at 
Samboanga,  and  fishing-nets  are  made  of  the  dried 
fibres.  The  flowers  are  large,  and  very  beautiful,  the 
long  stamina  forming  an  elegant  scarlet  tassel.  The 
other  species  (B.  racemosa)  flowers  in  May.  The  seeds 
of  the  Camonsilis  (Fuya  lanceolatd)  are  used  in  alleviating 
the  painful  punctures  of  the  venomous  spines  of  the  Ray 
and  other  fish. 

Among  other  trees,  a  variety  of  the  Banga,  or  Areca 
Catechu  (Immilis),  was  pointed  out,  distinguished  by  its 


328  ABORIGINES 

flattened  fruit,  and  diminutive  size.  The  Rosmarinm, 
"  Romero,"  or  Rosemary,  is  carefully  cultivated  in  pots, 
and  much  esteemed  by  the  natives  as  a  stomatic. 

Near  the  village  of  Tugbugan  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  two  of  the  aborigines  of  Mindanao  "  los  Indies,"  as 
the  Spaniards  call  them,  to  distinguish  them  from  "  los 
Negros  "  or  Papuans,  and  "  los  Moros,"  or  Malays.  They 
are  also  named  Manabos  by  some,  although  so  numerous 
are  the  tribes,  that  it  is  difficult  to  determine  them  with  any 
precision,  for  they  appear  to  be  almost  as  numerous  as  those 
of  Borneo.  Those  I  saw  were  stated  by  the  villagers  to  live 
in  the  mountains,  to  acknowledge  no  authority,  to  go 
nearly  naked,  and  to  live  chiefly  on  the  Sago  and  Indian 
Corn.    Then*  arms,  which  I  likewise  inspected,  consisted 
of  large  painted  shields,  the  sumpitan,  spear,  and  parang 
or  chopping-knife,  which  all  bore  a  striking  resemblance 
to  those  used  by  the  Dyaks.     The  men  were  of  fine 
proportions,  and  somewhat  noble  bearing,  of  a  light  black 
colour ;  the  nose  straight  and  well  developed,  the  facial 
angle  and  lips  like  those  of  the  negro,  and  the  hair  crisp, 
and  disposed  in  distinct  masses  over  the  head.     Then- 
eyes  were  large  and  black,  and  their  faces  smooth  and 
shining,  without  any  vestige  of  a  beard.     The  people  of 
Samboanga  and  the  neighbouring  villages  affect  to  hold 
these  natives  in  the  utmost  terror  and  disdain.    Like  the 
Arafuras  of  New  Guinea  and  the  Aru  Islands,  the  Dyaks 
of  Borneo,   the   Monaboes    inhabiting  the   interior   of 
Malaya,   and   the   Rajangs   and   Battas   occupying  the 
mountaing  of  Sumatra,  these  aborigines  of  Mindanao, 
according  to  the  information  of  my  guide,   and  certain 
village  gossips,  who  seemed  well  acquainted  with  them, 


CONTINUED.  329 

live  in  separate  communities,  each  governed  by  an  inde- 
pendent chief.  Their  dress  resembles  that  of  most  savage 
tribes,  being  simply  a  strip  of  cloth  encircling  the  waist, 
with  one  end  brought  down  in  front,  passed  between  the 
legs,  and  fastened  behind.  Their  hair  being  crisp,  wavy, 
and  growing  in  separate  tufts,  or  bunches,  in  the  same 
manner  as  that  of  the  Papuan  or  Pelagian  negroes,  would 
seem  to  indicate  that  in  Mindanao,  as  in  Borneo,  negro- 
like  races  inhabit  the  interior.  1  do  not  think  the  people 
I  saw  belonged  to  any  of  those  savage  tribes  alluded  to 
by  Prichard,  "  who  are  supposed  to  belong  to  the  race 
of  Harafaras,  and  are  said  to  have  some  analogy  in 
dialect  and  physiognomy  with  the  Idaan  or  Dyaks  of 
Borneo."  * 

Although  it  may  have  been  satisfactorily  proved  by  the 
researches  of  Prichard  and  others,  that  the  races  of 
Oceanica  are  distinct,  and  cannot  be  derived  either  from 
the  Peruvians  on  the  eastern  boundary,  or  from  the 
tribes  of  South  Africa,  which  bound  them  on  the  west ; 
yet  it  is  curious  to  trace  analogies  between  people  appa- 
rently so  very  distinct  as  the  Malayo-Polynesians,  and 
the  various  tribes  disseminated  over  the  continents  of  the 
two  Americas.  I  never  visited  a  horde  of  Dyaks  without 
involuntarily  thinking  of  North  American  Indians,  pro- 
bably, from  some  similarity  of  feeling  that  exists  between 
them,  as  to  the  necessity  of  either  scalping  their  enemies 
or  of  chopping  off  their  heads.  In  many  points  their 
religious  belief  is  also  the  same.  "  That  enigmatical 
subdivision  of  the  natives  into  an  almost  countless  mul- 

*  Phys.  Hist,  of  Mankind,  vol.  v.  p.  59. 


330  ABORIGINES. 

titude  of  greater  and  smaller  groups,  and  that  almost 
entire  exclusion  and  excommunication  with  regard  to 
each  other,  in  which  mankind  presents  its  different 
families  to  us  in  America,  like  fragments  of  a  vast  ruin," 
alluded  to  by  Dr.  Von  Martins,  likewise  reminds  one  of 
the  scattered  wandering  tribes  of  beings,  that  rove  from 
place  to  place  in  the  interior  of  Borneo.  It  has  been 
said  that  the  astronomy  of  Mexico  is  of  Asiatic  origin, 
and  philologists  inform  us  that  the  Malay  and  Peruvian 
dialects  have  many  words  that  may  be  referred  to  com- 
mon roots ;  and  it  is  singular  that  in  many  of  their  habits 
and  customs  may  be  traced  a  sort  of  similarity.  For  in- 
stance, the  use  of  the  sumpitan  and  poisoned  arrows  is  in 
vogue  among  the  wild  people  of  Guiana,  as  it  is  among 
our  Mends  the  Dyaks ;  the  habit  of  filing  the  teeth  sharp, 
and  of  using  a  constant  masticatory,  as  lime  with  a  narcotic 
leaf,  is  peculiar  both  to  Peruvians  and  to  Malayo-Poly- 
nesians.  As  with  languages,  so  it  is  with  the  aborigines 
of  any  climate,  the  more  primitive  their  condition,  the 
more  nearly  they  approximate  a  simple  common  type ; 
and  we  may  thus  account  for  the  casual  resemblance  ob- 
served between  the  savages  of  America  and  those  of  the 
Indian  Archipelago.  Amongst  the  Malays  and  Bugis, 
civilization  has  imprinted  certain  moral  and  physical 
peculiarities,  which  enables  them,  although  of  the  same 
family  of  mankind,  to  stand  out  in  bold  relief  from  their 
more  ignorant,  primitive,  and  less-fortunate  brothers. 

The  "  Filipinos,"  or  the  peaceable  people  of  Bisayan 
origin,  that  constitute  the  principal  portion  of  the  popu- 
lation of  the  Philippine  Islands,  believe  that  the  aboriginal 
races  of  the  interior  came  originally  from  Borneo,  and  it 


FLYING  FOXES.  331 

is  a  curious  fact  that  the  legends  and  traditions  of  Java 
assert,  that  the  inhabitants  of  that  island  came  from 
Borneo ;  and  indeed  some  writers  believe,  that  all  the 
different  races  belonging  to  the  Asiatic  Islands  were 
derived  from  this  common  focus,  although  it  is  far  more 
likely,  in  my  opinion,  that,  as  Dr.  Prichard  conceives,  all 
the  various  races  of  these  islands  may  originally  have 
been  derived  from  the  peninsula  of  Malacca,  which  con- 
stitutes the  south-eastern  extremity  of  Asia ;  for  that  is 
the  only  continent  which  contains  men  at  all  resembling 
in  physical  characters  the  Oceanic  tribes. 

The  Pteropi,  or  Flying  Foxes,  take  their  departure  at 
the  fall  of  day,  from  their  places  of  concealment,  among 
the  low  islands,  in  thousands,  ah1  steadily  wending  their 
way  towards  the  huge  forests  of  the  interior,  where  their 
favourite  fruits  are  found,  and  at  the  early  blush  of  dawn 
they  are  seen  returning,  in  like  manner,  to  their  diurnal 
haunts,  where  they  hide  in  hollow  trees,  or  caverns 
among  the  rocks,  or  hang  suspended  by  the  thumbs 
from  the  under-surface  of  the  trees  among  the  dense 
foliage.  When  the  Pteropus  flies,  he  generally  chooses  an 
exalted  station  in  the  air,  and  his  motions  are  deliberate, 
noiseless,  and  crow-like. 

At  the  watering-place  not  far  from  the  small  village  of 
Calderas,  among  other  interesting  specimens,  I  captured 
the  rare  Utica  yracttipes,  (White)  which  has  the  very  re- 
markable habit  of  strongly  contracting  all  its  members 
when  caught,  with  what  may  be  termed  a  cataleptic  rigi- 
dity ;  and  this  trick,  together  with  its  singular  tabular 
brown  carapace,  enables  it  to  escape  detection  among  the 
dead  leaves  and  rotten  pieces  of  wood,  which  almost  in- 


332  HABITS  OF  SPIDERS 

variably  fill  the  ponds  and  rivulets  in  the  tropics.  This 
mode  of  feigning  death  to  escape  its  enemies,  is  the  more 
curious  in  this  Crab,  as  it  appears  to  be  allied  to  the  Grap- 
#id(e,  which  are  very  energetic  in  then*  endeavours  to  escape. 
The  under-surface  is  dark  brown,  of  a  lighter  tinge  on 
the  legs  and  post-abdomen,  which  latter  has  a  light  yel- 
lowish line  down  the  middle. 

Near  the  same  spot,  and  not  far  from  Calderas,  a 
species  of  Sesarma,  of  a  brown  colour,  with  the  tips  of 
the  chelae  orange,  and  the  cornea  of  the  eye  perfectly 
concave,  is  very  common.  It  lives  in  the  fresh- water 
rivulets,  among  weeds,  like  the  Utica ;  while  another  spe- 
cies is  found  under  damp  logs,  and  stones,  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  any  water. 

Never  have  I  been  better  amused  than  when  observing, 
in  the  forests  of  Mindanao,  the  habits  of  the  extraordi- 
nary spiders  that  abound  there,  to  figure  and  describe 
the  varied  forms  of  which,  would  require  the  pencil  of 
Abbot,  and  many  years  of  unwearied  application. 

The  bodies  of  the  Epeirce,  seen  in  the  tropics,  are  often 
most  splendidly  ornamented,  I  might  almost  say  illumi- 
nated, for  many  of  them  remind  you  of  the  gaudy  ancient 
missals,  painted  by  monks  in  the  dark  ages.  You  may 
have  white  figures  on  a  red  ground ;  red,  yellow,  and 
black,  in  alternate  streaks ;  orange  marbled  with  brown ; 
light  green,  with  white  ocelli ;  yellow,  with  light  brown 
festoons  ;  or  ash-coloured,  and  chesnut  bodies,  with 
crescents,  horse-shoes,  Chinese  characters,  and  grotesque 
hieroglyphics  of  every  description.  Then,  again,  the 
shape  of  their  bodies  is  endless  in  variety;  they  are 
round  or  oval,  flattened  or  globular,  angular,  tubercu- 


CONTINUED.  333 

lated,  lobed,  spined,  or  furnished  with  hairy  tufts. 
These  examples, 

"  Whose  shapes  would  make  them,  had  they  bulk  and  size, 
More  hideous  foes  than  fancy  can  devise," 

taken  at  random  during  one  or  two  excursions  in  the 
woods,  will  tend  to  show  what  a  wide  field  is  open  to  the 
naturalist  in  these  regions  of  the  sun,  provided  he  has 
nothing  of  more  importance  to  engage  his  attention  than 
the  investigation  of  Apterous  insects. 

In  the  forests  about  Calderas,  I  collected  some  splendid 
species  of  gold  and  silver-marked  Tetragnatha.  One, 
which  might  be  named  T.  nitens,  has  a  dark,  shining- 
brown  thorax,  and  a  glittering  silvery  body,  with  five 
black  spots ;  the  legs  banded  with  dark  brown,  and  the 
under  side  light  black.  It  constructs  a  large,  ingenious, 
symmetrical  web,  and  drops,  when  touched,  to  the 
ground ;  taking  care,  however,  at  the  same  time,  to  sus- 
pend itself  by  a  web,  by  means  of  which  it  ascends  again, 
when  the  enemy  has  departed.  In  the  centre  of  its  web, 
it  spins  concentric  circles,  and  thick,  irregular  mazes, 
of  a  fine  yellow  colour,  and  often  of  very  complicated 
devices.  When  it  falls  to  the  ground,  it  folds  up  its  legs, 
and  feigns  death,  all  its  members  being  perfectly  rigid. 
The  Tetraffnatha  have  a  remarkable  habit  of  dividing 
their  eight  legs,  as  they  cling,  head  downwards,  to  the 
centre  of  their  toils,  throwing  out  four  directly  forwards, 
and  four  directly  backwards.  Some  species,  however, 
have  the  third  pair  of  legs  extended  straight  out,  in  a 
lateral  direction.  Another  common  species  had  a  body 
mottled  with  dark  brown,  and  covered  with  white 
markings ;  legs  brown,  banded ;  the  thorax  burnished 


334  HABITS  OF  SPIDERS 

bright  green,  with  darker  markings.  I  have  named  it, 
provisionally,  T.  refulgens.  Numbers  of  the  genus  Theri- 
dion,  of  a  black  colour,  were  running  actively  about 
among  the  dry,  dead  leaves  that  strewed  the  ground ; 
and  some  handsomely-coloured  species  were  discovered 
crouching  among  the  foliage  of  the  trees.  One  was 
marked  like  the  T.  Sisyphus  of  Haan  (Tab.  58.  fig.  132.) ; 
and  another  large-sized  species  was  of  a  bright  emerald 
green.  The  Attus  formicoides  (Walckenaer),  or  an  allied 
species,  was  basking  on  the  dead  leaves  in  the  sunny 
spots ;  and  numerous  pretty  species  of  Salticus,  allied  to 
8.  crux  (Haan,  Tab.  17.  fig.  52.),  but  of  much  larger 
dimensions,  were  common  spiders.  A  species  of  Attus, 
allied  to \  formicoides,  which  may  be  called  splendens,  was 
taken  here.  It  was  of  a  brilliant  metallic  green -gold, 
withj  the  under-surface  fine  metallic  purple ;  the  legs 
banded  with  light  brown,  and  burnished  green.  It  was 
springing  about  the  foliage  of  the  low  trees.  Another 
Attus  was  of  a  shining  black,  with  several  bright  ultra- 
marine spots  on  the  abdomen,  and  light  brown  legs, 
banded  with  darker  brown.  Numbers  of  black-coloured 
Theridia  were  running  about  over  the  dead  leaves,  simu- 
lating, at  a  little  distance,  so  many  odd-shaped  Ants ; 
numerous  other  species  of  this  genus,  which  were  seen 
living  among  the  flowers  and  foliage  of  the  trees,  had 
their  abdomens  variegated  with  beautiful  colours.  One 
species,  with  a  hairy  body  and  legs,  and  shining  chesnut- 
coloured  chelicera,  runs  quickly  when  pursued,  and  uses 
these  organs  in  self-defence.  Its  body  is  of  a  dark  olive 
brown,  and  it  appears  to  love  dark  nooks  and  holes  of 
the  bark  of  trees,  and  frequently  hangs  suspended  from 


CONTINUED.  335 

the  under-surface  of  the  leaves.  I  observed  another 
species,  which  knew  it  was  being  watched,  place  itself 
upon  a  diseased  leaf,  where  it  remained  quite  stationary 
until  after  I  had  taken  my  departure ;  and  had  I  not  seen 
the  sidelong  movement  of  the  cunning  little  creature,  in 
the  first  instance,  I  should  not  have  been  able  to  distin- 
guish its  body  from  the  eroded  surface  of  the  leaf.  Those 
that  live  among  the  foliage  and  flowers,  are  vividly 
coloured,  and  many  flies  and  other  insects  are,  no  doubt, 
attracted  towards  these  Spiders,  by  reason  of  their 
gaudily-tinted  bodies.  I  have  seen  the  abdomen  of  one 
marked  with  lilac,  yellow,  and  crimson,  three  powerfully 
contrasted  colours.  Others  are  green,  and  actually  reti- 
culated, like  the  veined  surface  of  a  leaf,  with  the  mid- 
rib running  down  the  centre,  and  the  secondary  nervures 
proceeding  outwards  from  each  side ;  the  bodies  of  others 
resemble  the  splendid  variegated  blossoms  of  the  sorts  of 
Calceolarias,  grown  in  our  gardens. 

Several  timid,  soft,  retiring,  long-legged  Pholci,  with 
fawn-coloured  bodies,  and  semi-transparent  red-brown 
legs,  covered  with  long  hairs,  formed  large,  loose  webs 
among  the  rotten  wood  and  leaves  that  strewed  the 
ground.  The  legs  of  these  arachnidans  appear  too  weak 
to  support  their  bodies  in  running;  therefore  they  resemble 
their  aquatic  marine  analogues,  the  Pycnogonidce,  which 
remain  stationary  among  the  tangled  and  thread-like 
Keratophytes,  which  constitute  the  webs  of  those  spider- 
like  Crustaceans,  and  thus  watch  cautiously  their  prey ; 
and  when  it  is  caught  in  the  toils,  consume  it  at  their 
leisure,  thus  making  up  by  cunning  and  persevering 
watching  for  the  want  of  that  strength  and  force 


336  INSECT-ADAPTATIONS. 

possessed  by  some  of  their  consimilars.  Most  of  the 
Crustacea  would  appear,  on  a  careful  comparison,  to  have 
very  distinct  analogies  with  the  families  of  Arachnidans. 

The  nimble-limbed  Dolomedes,  that  run  after  their 
prey,  and  catch  them  by  swiftness  of  foot,  rather  than  by 
stratagem,  have  slender  legs,  and,  living  on  the  ground, 
are  generally  of  dingy  colours ;  with  the  exception,  how- 
ever, of  those  very  large  and  powerful  species,  which,  if 
not  rendered  somewhat  conspicuous  to  the  sight  of  other 
insects,  might  do  too  much  damage  to  the  tribes  they  are 
destined  to  keep  in  check ;  most  of  these,  therefore,  have 
the  thorax  and  abdomen  margined  with 'a  light  colour, 
that  contrasts  strongly  with  that  of  their  bodies.  The 
Saltici  generally  resemble,  more  or  less,  the  colour  of  the 
places  they  inhabit.  I  noticed  a  species  among  the 
dense  thickets,  formed  by  Abrus  precatoria  and  other 
trees,  with  a  black  abdomen,  marked  on  each  side  with 
dull  scarlet,  curious  as  being  the  colours  of  the  seeds 
of  Abrus,  which  are  called  by  children  "  black-a-moor 
beauties ;"  those  species  that  live  on  the  bark  of  trees  are 
mottled  grey  and  brown,  and  those  which  you  find  upon 
the  ground,  are  altogether  black  or  dingy  coloured. 

It  is  an  interesting  fact,  that  those  gay  insects,  which 
love  to  sun  themselves  in  the  open  parts  of  the  forests, 
exposed  to  view  upon  the  leaves,  like  the  brilliant  Bupres- 
tidce,  and  other  splendid  beetles  of  the  tropics,  are 
glorious  in  their  hues,  while  dingy-coloured  Coleoptera, 
like  the  Helluo,  in  his  funereal  dress,  hide  in  obscure 
holes  and  corners,  where  the  sight  may  never  reach  them. 
The  Necrophagous  Silphida,  again,  are  most  commonly 
of  obscure  colouring,  and  conceal  their  dingy  bodies  in 


HOSTILITY  OF  NATIVES.  337 

putrid  carcases,  while  their  consimilars,  the  Nitidulida, 
that  spend  their  lives  among  the  gaily-coloured  petals  of 
flowering  plants,  are  splendid  with  metallic  tints.  In  like 
manner  there  is  a  wide  difference  between  those  Lamelli- 
corn  beetles,  which  fly  by  night,  like  Lucanus,  or  burrow 
in  the  ground,  like  Geotrupes,  or  conceal  themselves 
under  dung,  like  Aphodim ;  and  those  glittering  insects, 
which,  like  the  Stephanorina,  Coryphocera,  and  Cetonia, 
revel  amid  the  blossoms  of  the' most  lovely  flowers. 

On  the  6th  of  December,  the  c  Samarang '  was  once 
more  anchored  in  Manila  Bay ;  on  the  30th  of  January, 
1846,  we  again  examined  the  Panagatan  shoals,  and  on 
the  4th  of  February,  commenced  surveying  the  small 
islands  of  Ambolon  and  Ylin,  situated  at  the  south  end 
of  Mindoro,  one  of  the  Philippines. 

The  people  of  this  part  of  Mindoro,  privately  pursuing 
piracy,  imagined  we  were  possessed  of  the  same  propen- 
sities. On  one  occasion,  a  party  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  attacked  the  crew  of  our  jolly-boat ;  and  not  far 
from  the  principal  village  of  Ylin,  some  natives  shot  an 
arrow  at  the  captain's  gig,  which  fell  in  the  water  along- 
side. On  our  approaching  the  village  the  people  were 
prepared  to  give  us  a  hostile  reception ;  but  on  our 
landing  with  loaded  muskets,  they  retreated,  soon  laid 
aside  their  useless  bows  and  arrows,  and  became  very 
good  friends.  Their  fort,  situated  at  the  top  of  a  steep 
hill,  was  filled  with  their  women,  who  had  run  up  there 
for  shelter.  A  market  was  soon  opened,  in  a  large  house 
under  the  surveillance  of  the  chief  of  the  village,  and  it 
was  a  very  amusing  sight  to  see  a  number  of  old  women 
bringing  in  their  pigs  for  sale,  tied  by  a  string ;  others 

VOL.  II.  Z 


338  USE  OF  THE  BOW  AND  ARROW. 

offering  tempting  bunches  of  bananas;  many  praising 
their  fighting-cocks,  and  others  the  freshness  of  their 
eggs.  The  scenery  from  the  fort  was  very  beautiful ;  soft 
green  hills,  in  many  parts  crowned  with  a  dense  mass  of 
noble  trees,  extended  for  miles,  in  every  direction,  behind 
the  village. 

This  is  the  only  time  I  have  seen  the  bow  and  arrow 
in  use  among  the  Malayo-Polynesian  tribes ;  and  although 
the  Javanese  are  said  by  Crawford  to  be  extremely  fond 
of  the  exercise  of  the  bow  and  arrow,  as  an  amusement ; 
yet  we  do  not  find  either  the  bow,  the  club,  or  the  sling, 
among  the  primitive  Dyaks,  or  any  other  aborigines  of 
the  Indian  Islands,  except  the  Bisayan  race.  At  the 
Bashee  Group,  the  inhabitants  of  which  belong  to  the 
same  stock  as  those  which  people  the  coasts  of  Mindoro, 
although  at  present  an  unarmed  population,  yet  retain  a 
recollection  of  the  bow  and  arrow.  We  were  shown 
several  very  long  and  powerful  bows,  in  the  house  of  the 
native  chief  of  the  mission  of  San  Domingo.  Those 
primitive  weapons,  the  bow  and  arrow,  have  given  place, 
among  most  of  the  islands,  to  the  more  refined  invention 
of  shooting  envenomed  arrows  through  a  long  cylindrical 
tube ;  and  for  hand  to  hand  weapons  of  aggression,  they 
have  fashioned  the  useful  iron  into  kris  blades,  and  the 
heads  of  spears.  In  Crawford's  account  of  an  attack 
made  on  Manila  by  the  British,  in  1762,  it  is  stated  that 
five  thousand  Indians  "  presented  themselves,  armed  with 
javelins,  and  with  bows  and  arrows,  for  the  relief  of  the 
garrison."  * 

In  our  survey  of  Ylin,  we  occasionally  regaled  ourselves 
*  Hist.  Ind.  Archipel.  vol.  ii.  p.  475. 


POISONOUS  PLANTS.  339 

with  the  boiled  leaves  of  the  Colocasia  esculenta,  which 
we  found  very  palatable.  One  of  the  seamen,  thinking 
they  were  equally  good  in  an  uncooked  state,  incautiously 
chewed  some  of  the  leaves,  thereby  producing  great  pain 
and  swelling  of  the  tongue,  with  an  inflammation  of  the 
fauces,  that  lasted  several  days.  At  Hong-Kong,  where 
the  tubers  of  the  same  plant  are  eaten,  under  the  name 
of  Cocoas,  several  marines  came  to  me  with  the  same 
symptoms.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  most  edible  roots  are 
yielded  by  plants  possessed  of  poisonous  qualities.  The 
Potatoe  is  allied  to  the  Deadly  Nightshade ;  one  species 
of  Sweet-Potatoe,  the  Batatas  paniculata,  is  a  violent 
cathartic ;  the  nutritious  Cassava  and  Tapioca,  are  pre- 
pared from  a  root,  the  expressed  juice  of  which  is  dange- 
rously poisonous;  and  it  would  be  easy  to  multiply 
examples,  proving  the  same  fact.  In  Hampshire,  the 
poor  people  gather  the  leaves  of  the  "  Lords-and-Ladies  " 
(Arum  maculatum),  which  belongs  to  the  same  natural 
order  as  the  Colocasia,  and  esteem  them,  when  boiled, 
excellent  eating. 

A  ramble  at  a  little  distance  from  the  village,  furnished 
me  with  a  very  handsome  Lamia,  allied  to  Ceratites,  of  a 
dark-brown  colour,  with  numerous  yellow  eye-like  spots 
on  the  elytra,  most  probably  an  entirely  new  species. 
The  dark  purple  Pachyrhynchus  moniliferus,  with  nume- 
rous small  ultramarine  markings  on  its  gibbose  elytra,  and 
another  species,  of  a  light  chesnut-brown,  were  found 
clinging  to  the  leaves  of  the  low  bushes ;  and  lurking 
under  loose  bark,  was  a  species  of  Uloma,  one  of  the 
Tenebrionidfs,  with  reddish  antennae,  and  black  polished 
elytra.  In  the  river  that  runs  through  the  village, 

z  2 


340  HABITS  OF  MOLLUSKS. 

I  noticed  several  species  of  Melania  and  Neritina,  and 
one  species  of  Ampullaria. 

During  many  agreeable  boat-expeditions  among  these 
islands,  I  had  numerous  opportunities  of  observing  the 
habits  of  molluscous  animals.  I  shall  only  add  here, 
however,  a  few  remarks  on  the  Mitra  and  Calpurnus, 
reserving  other  details  for  the  '  Zoology  of  the  Samarang/ 
where  figures  of  the  animals  of  many  species  of  shells 
will  be  published. 

In  its  habits,  the  Calpurnus  (Ovulum  verrucosumj  is  a 
very  slow-moving,  and  sluggish  mollusk,  with  all  the 
peculiarities  of  the  Cowries,  and  exhibits  a  singularly 
beautiful  and  striking  appearance  under  the  calm,  shal- 
low water,  as  it  glides  tranquilly  along  the  bright  sandy 
bottom.  The  spots  on  the  mantle  are  much  smaller, 
and  more  irregular  in  form,  than  those  on  the  foot. 
The  head  is  pure  opaque  white,  with  the  exception  of 
one  large  black  spot,  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  forepart, 
which,  with  its  large  black  eyes,  and  black-tipped  ten- 
tacles, gives  it  a  very  peculiar  appearance.  It  was  taken 
alive  by  us  at  the  extreme  southernmost  end  of  the 
Island  of  Mindoro,  not  far  from  Ylin,  in  shallow  water, 
and  on  a  sandy  bottom.  The  Calpurnus  appears  to  be 
rather  numerous  among  these  small  islets,  though,  in 
other  parts  of  the  Philippines,  I  only  met  with  specimens 
dead,  and  thrown  up  along  the  beach. 

For  a  mollusk  furnished  with  such  a  heavy  shell,  the 
Ranella  is  by  no  means  an  inactive  animal.  It  moves 
with  considerable  animation,  thrusting  out  its  head,  pro- 
truding its  tentacles  and  proboscis,  and  ascending  even 
perpendicular  surfaces  with  considerable  facility.  One 


AN  OYSTER  SUPPER.  341 

species,  dredged  from  twenty  fathoms  water,  was  furnished 
with  a  very  extensive  proboscis,  which  it  was  able  to 
exsert  to  the  distance  of  two  inches  from  the  head,  using 
it  as  a  perceptive  organ,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Elephant  does  his  trunk. 

I  have  observed  the  animal  of  Eulima  major,  in  the 
living  state,  at  Looc  Bay,  in  the  Philippines,  at  Cagayan- 
Sooloo,  and  at  the  Panagatan  shoals,  near  Apo  Island. 
This  mollusk,  which  I  have  described  in  the  '  Annals  and 
Magazine  of  Natural  History,'  is  slow-moving,  and  ex- 
cessively timid,  retreating  quickly  within  its  shell  on  the 
slightest  alarm.  The  animal  is  entirely  of  an  opaque 
pearly  white;  the  eyes  black,  and  generally  concealed 
under  the  front  of  the  shell,  as  are  those  small,  reflected 
lobes  of  the  mantle,  which  produce  the  polished  surface 
of  the  Eulima ;  the  tentacles  are  yellow  at  the  tip,  orange 
in  the  middle,  and  white  at  the  base.  It  wonld  remain 
for  hours  after  capture  without  moving,  and  emerge  from 
its  polished  castle  with  the  utmost  caution  and  distrust. 

The  old  stakes  of  the  numerous  fishing  wears  laid 
down  by  the  natives  among  the  shallows  of  these  islands, 
are  incrusted  with  Oysters  of  a  very  delicious  flavour ;  and 
it  was  a  source  of  much  amusement,  after  the  labours  of 
the  day  were  done,  to  collect  a  number  of  these  oyster- 
loaded  stakes,  and  cook  them  in  the  fires  which  we  had 
lighted  to  cheer  our  bivoua'c.  Seated  in  a  circle,  we 
watched,  with  hungry  interest,  the  opening  of  these  delec- 
table mollusks,  when  scooping  out  the  savoury  morsels 
with  our  knives,  we  enjoyed  the  feast  kind  nature  had 
provided  us. 

In  the  animal  of  Lima,  the  long,   slender  finger-like 


342  THE  LIMA. 

foot,  developed  from  the  centre  of  that  portion  of  the 
body  which  includes  the  viscera,  is  furnished  with  the 
power  of  producing  a  tenacious  kind  of  secretion,  which 
hardens  in  something  like  the  same  manner  as  the  cobweb, 
after  leaving  the  spinneret  of  the  spider,  and  thus  con- 
stitutes a  temporary  kind  of  byssus ;  which  is  somewhat 
remarkable,  as  the  Lima  is  a  most  locomotive  mollusk, 
and  endowed  with  as  much  animation  and  vivacity  as  a 
Pecten;  and  from  another  reason  that  most  lamelli- 
branchiate  mollusks,  which  spin  a  byssus,  have  the  foot  in 
general  but  very  little  developed.  The  Lima  usually 
live  quietly  at  the  bottom  with  the  valves  widely  extended 
and  thrown  flat  back,  like  the  wings  of  certain  butter- 
flies, when  basking  in  the  sun;  but  when  disturbed,  they 
start  up,  flap  their  light  valves,  and  move  rapidly  through 
the  water,  by  a  continued  succession  of  sudden  jerks. 
The  cause  of  alarm  over,  they  bring  themselves  to  an 
anchor  by  means  of  their  provisional  byssus,  which  they 
seem  to  fix  with  much  care  and  attention,  previously  ex- 
ploring every  part  of  the  surface  with  their  singular  leech- 
like  foot.  When  many  hundreds  of  these  curious  bivalves 
are  seen  at  the  bottom  of  clear  pools,  surrounded  by 
living  branches  of  party-coloured  coral,  their  crimson 
spotted  mantles  and  delicate  spiral  appendages  that  fringe 
the  edges,  cause  them  to  exhibit  a  very  rich  and  beautiful 
appearance. 

Although  M.  Quoy  has  rightly  termed  the  Mitra  an 
"  animal  apathetique,"  yet  among  the  Philippines,  and  in 
the  China  Sea,  about  the  low  coral  islands,  I  have  seen 
the  small  longitudinally-ribbed  species  crawl  about  pretty 
briskly  over  the  smooth  sand.  The  Mitra  episcopalis, 


HABITS  OF  MITRES.  343 

probably  on  account  of  the  small  size  of  its  locomotive 
disc,  and  the  ponderous  nature  of  its  long  shell,  is  de- 
cidedly a  very  sluggish  mollusk.  I  have  observed  some 
of  the  auricula-shaped  Mitres,  that  live  among  the  Philip- 
pines, in  the  shallow  pools  left  by  the  receding  tide, 
crawling  about  the  stones,  out  of  the  water,  in  company 
with  the  Planaxis  and  Quoyia.  The  Mitres,  however,  in 
general,  like  many  of  the  larger  Volutes,,  crawl  in  societies 
of  many  dozens,  over  the  sandy  mud-flats  in  shallow 
water,  and  are  more  particularly  active  just  before  the 
flood-tide  makes.  When  the  tide  recedes,  they  bury 
themselves  superficially  in  the  yielding  soil,  and  are  with 
difficulty  discovered.  Some  of  the  small,  ribbed  species 
cover  themselves  entirely  with  the  sandy  mud,  and  in 
that  disguised  condition,  travel  about  in  comparative 
security.  On  one  occasion,  in  the  small  island  of  Ambo- 
lon,  at  the  south  end  of  Mindoro,  I  was  walking  up  to 
my  ankles  in  water,  over  a  firm,  sandy  mud-flat,  taking 
little  notice  of  the  Cones,  Strombi,  Melcagrina,  and 
Volutes  which  people  the  water  in  great  numbers,  but 
looking  about  anxiously  for  the  rarer  Mitres,  when  I  first 
perceived  these  small  species,  under  their  ingenious  dis- 
guise, marching  in  towards  the  shore,  as  the  tide  flowed 
rapidly  over  the  level  surface.  Persons,  by  the  way, 
should  never  venture  in  places  of  this  description  bare- 
footed, as  there  is  a  species  of  Pinna  which  buries  its 
sharp  end  in  the  mud,  but  leaves  the  thin,  trenchant 
edges  of  the  gaping  extremities  exposed,  which,  when 
trodden  on,  inflict  very  deep  and  painful  incised  wounds. 
Both  myself  and  several  of  the  boat's  crew  suffered  in 
this  way. 


344  THE  MITRE-SHELLS. 

The  Philippines  would  seem  to  harbour  the  greatest 
number  of  these  elegant  and  beautiful  shells,  although  a 
great  many  species  were  obtained  by  Mr.  Cuming  in 
Tropical  America.  They  appear  to  be  chiefly  confined  to 
the  equatorial  regions,  scarcely  any  being  natives  of  cold 
climates.  I  have  met  with  several  among  the  Meia-co- 
shimah  Islands,  at  Loo-Choo,  Japan,  and  at  the  Keeling, 
or  Cocos  Islands..  They  are  most  generally  to  be  found 
in  somewhat  shallow  water,  among  the  ledges  of  rocks, 
between  small  islands,  where  the  water  barely  covers  the 
land,  and  within  the  shelter  of  coral  reefs,  sometimes 
preferring  a  clear,  sandy  bottom,  and  at  other  times 
affecting  a  hard,  muddy,  sandy  soil.  The  transversely- 
ribbed  species,  such  as  Mitra  circulata,  are  frequently 
found  in  very  deep  water,  and  many  were  dredged  by  us 
in  twenty  and  thirty  fathoms,  at  Sooloo,  and  in  the 
China  Sea. 

The  animal  of  Mitra  circulata,  one  of  these  deep- 
water  species,  is  very  prettily  marked.  The  body  is  grey, 
varied  with  round,  well-developed,  white  spots,  and  a 
series  of  dark-brown  blotches,  of  a  pyramidal  form, 
arranged  round  the  lower  edge  in  a  Vandyke  pattern, 
and  below  that,  a  white  rim,  with  a  row  of  small,  linear, 
horizontal,  black  spots ;  the  head  is  white,  marbled  with 
grey-brown ;  the  eyes  black,  and  the  tentacles  white,  with 
a  large  oval,  black  spot  in  their  middle ;  the  siphon  is 
brown,  edged  with  black,  and  with  a  broad  white  band 
at  its  free  extremity.  The  operculum  is  very  minute, 
horny,  and  transparent.  In  general,  however,  the  Mitres, 
notwithstanding  the  elaborate  markings  of  their  shells,  are 
riot  remarkable  for  bright  colours  on  their  bodies. 


ADAPTATIONS.  345 

Another  species,  with  the  same  habits,  the  Mitra 
circulata,  is  semi-opaque-white,  faintly  mottled  with 
light  brown ;  with  the  eyes  at  the  outer  base  of  the  ten- 
tacles, and  black. 

The  animal  of  Conohelix,  of  Swainson,  does  not  differ 
from  that  of  Mitra.  One  species,  probably  new,  I  have 
found  buried  rather  deep  in  the  soft,  black  mud,  under 
the  roots  of  the  trees  in  Mangrove  swamps,  above  high- 
water  mark,  in  the  Island  of  Basilan.  The  C.  marmo- 
rata  is  found  in  company  with  many  species  of  Mitres, 
crawling  slowly  over  the  sandy  mud,  in  shallow  places, 
among  the  Islands  of  the  Philippine  Archipelago. 

St.  Pierre,  in  his  '  Studies  of  Nature,'  *  has  very  truly 
remarked,  that  the  animals  of  shells  which  crawl  and  travel, 
and  which  can,  consequently,  choose  their  own  asylums, 
are  in  general  those  of  the  richest  colours ;  such  are  the 
gaudily-tinted  Nerites,  and  the  polished  marbled  Cow- 
ries ;  the  Olives  richly  ornamented  with  three  or  four 
colours ;  and  the  Harps,  which  have  tints  as  rich  as  the 
most  beautiful  Tulips;  while  among  the  bivalves  the 
vivacious  Pectens  coloured  scarlet  and  orange,  and  a 
host  of  other  travelling  shells  are  impressed  with  the 
most  lively  colours.  But  those  which  do  not  swim,  as 
the  Oysters,  which  are  adherent  always  to  the  same  rocks; 
or  those  which  are  perpetually  at  anchor  in  the  straits, 
attached  to  the  stones  by  their  byssi,  as  the  Pinnas  and 
Muscles ;  or  those  which  repose  on  the  bosom  of  Madre- 
pores, such  as  the  Arcs;  or  those  which  are  entirely 
buried  in  the  calcareous  rocks,  as  the  Lithodomi;  or  those 
which  immovably,  by  reason  of  their  weight,  pave  the 
*  Vol.  iii.  p.  67. 


346  ADAPTATIONS. 

surface  of  the  reefs,  as  the  Tridacna,  and  those  great  uni- 
valves, such  as  the  Turbos ;  or,  in  short,  those  which 
always  remain  motionless,  like  the  Limpets,  which  are 
attached,  by  forming  a  vacuum  on  the  smooth  surface  of 
rocks  :  all  these  species  of  shells  are  of  the  colour  of  the 
bottoms,  or  floors,  which  they  respectively  inhabit,  in 
order,  no  doubt,  that  they  shall  be  less  perceived  by  their 
enemies. 


347 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE  SOOLOO  AND  MOLUCCA  ARCHIPELAGOES. 

Sooloo — Appearance  of  the  People — Gigantic  drum — The  Tsjampaka — 
Tlie  Sooloos  poison  the  water — Their  fondness  for  Pearls — Fanciful 
origin  of  those  concretions — The  Sultan's  fable  respecting  them — 
Sea-Snakes — Origin  of  "  Great  Sea-Serpent " — Water  Spouts — 
Shells,  and  their  inhabitants — Apo  Island — Malay  fishing  village 
— Questionable  character  of  its  occupants — Shooting  excursion  in 
Basilau — Hostilities  in  the  Island — Habits  of  Spiders — Curious 
Shell-fish — Unsang — Wild  Animals — Apes  —  Gigantic  Crane — 
Lace-Lizard — Crocodile — Insects — Celebes— Cape  Rivers — Marine 
Animals — Manado — Forest  Scenery — Adaptations — Anecdote  of 
a  Bee — Curious  Insects— Land-Crabs — Habits  of  Crustaceans — 
Island  of  Meyo— Whale— Turtles— Fish  —  Lizard  —  Shells  — 
Ternate — The  Malukus — Habits  of  Spiders. 

On  the  16th  of  April,  1844,  we  arrived  for  the  first  time 
at  the  city  of  Sooloo,  which  we  again  visited  in  December 
of  the  same  year,  and  in  February,  1845.  The  uncon- 
quered  Sooloos,  considered  the  bravest  warriors  in  these 
seas,  and  whose  chief  city  has  been  termed  the  "  Algiers 
of  the  East,"  invariably  go  armed,  being  usually  provided 
with  a  formidable  spear,  as  well  as  wearing  in  their 
sarongs  their  ever-constant  companion,  the  murderous 
kris.  The  countenance  of  the  Sooloos  is  not  agreeable ; 
there  is  something  more  morose,  fierce  and  vindictive- 


348  THE  SOOLOOS. 

looking  about  them,  than  is  to  be  noticed  among  other 
varieties  of  the  Malay  race.  Their  figures,  moreover,  are 
taller,  better  proportioned,  and  of  a  bolder  aspect  than 
those  of  the  generality  of  Malays.  Some  of  the  young  girls 
are  very  nearly  white,  and  many  of  them  tolerably  good- 
looking  ;  though,  as  is  most  generally  the  case  in  these 
countries,  they  lose  their  fair  proportions,  as  they  advance 
in  years.  They  manufacture  a  fine  stuff"  from  the  fibres 
of  the  Plantain,  in  a  very  simple  and  primitive  sort  of 
manner,  their  loom  being  composed  of  a  few  sticks,  and 
the  woof  being  secured  around  their  waists.  With  this 
exception,  they  appear  to  do  nothing  but  pound  padi 
for  the  use  of  their  lords  and  masters. 

Near  the  city  are  numerous  grassy  plains,  where 
Water-Buffaloes,  and  a  small,  well-formed  breed  of  horses 
graze,  in  considerable  numbers.  In  the  huge,  rudely- 
constructed  temple,  where  the  followers  of  Mahomet 
meet  together,  is  a  gigantic  drum,  like  that  one  in  the 
city  of  Brunai,  formed  of  the  trunk  of  an  enormous  tree, 
and  covered  with  a  buffalo's  hide.  This  summons  the 
Mussulmans  to  daily  prayers,  in  lieu  of  the  call  of  the 
Muezzin.  During  an  audience  with  the  Sultan,  I  could 
not  help  admiring  the  gorgeous  dresses  and  fine  forms 
of  some  of  these  Sooloo  warriors,  many  among  them 
evincing  much  taste  in  the  selection  of  their  colours,  &c. 
The  road  to  the  "  Hall  of  Audience  "  was  rendered  very 
attractive  by  groves  of  Cocoa-nut  trees,  mingled  with  the 
fragrant  Tsjampaka  (Michelia  Champacd),  that  splendid 
member  of  the  Magnolia  tribe,  the  flowers  of  which, 
together  with  the  Nyctafttlius,  or  Malati,  and  the  Tanjung 
(Mmtsops  elengi },  are  worn  in  the  glossy  hair  of  the 


POISON  THE  WATER.  349 

Indian  maidens ;  or  thrown  on  the  tables,  mingled  with 
citron-flowers,  and  Jasmines,  at  the  banquets  of  the 
great,  for  the  delicious  perfume  exhaled  by  the  petals ; 
and  whose  foliage  aifords  such  a  grateful  shade  in  the 
villages  of  the  Malays  in  these  burning  regions. 

The  men  of  Sooloo,  like  the  Malays  and  Bugis  of 
Celebes  and  Borneo,  are  passionately  fond  of  cock-fighting, 
frequently  staking  the  whole  of  their  personal  property 
on  the  result  of  a  battle.  The  spurs  they  use  are  scythe- 
shaped,  long,  sharp,  and  made  of  steel,  and  are  sometimes 
fastened  to  one  leg,  and  frequently  to  both.  Groups  of 
these  arch-pirates,  the  warlike  Sooloos,  may  be  always 
seen  in  the  mud-streets  of  their  chief  city  with  game-cocks 
under  their  arms  to  be  pitted  "  against  all  comers,"  thus 
fostering  their  love  of  fighting  and  gambling,  even  in  their 
pastimes.  Frequently  the  owner  of  the  victorious  bird 
carries  away,  as  the  prize,  the  vanquished  hero  of  his 
brother  gamester. 

While  lying  off  their  city,  the  Sooloos  poisoned  the 
springs,  from  which  the  boats  of  both  French  and  En- 
glish ships  were  watering,  by  throwing  into  them  large 
quantities  of  the  fruit  of  the  Aran,  or  Gomuti  Palm 
(Borassus  Gomutus}.  After  some  tons  had  been  brought 
on  board  the  '  Samarang,'  many  of  the  men  complained 
of  a  painful  heat,  and  stinging  sensation  of  the  skin  of 
the  hands,  legs,  and  other  parts  exposed  during  the 
duties  of  this  day's  service,  and  the  officer  commanding 
the  boats,  having  brought  on  board  some  of  the  fruit, 
I  pointed  out  the  poisonous  nature  of  the  pulp,  and  the 
water  was  accordingly  started.  Fortunately,  no  serious 
harm  was  done,  although  some  of  the  men  who  had 


350  A  USEFUL  PALM. 

partaken  pretty  freely  of  the  poisoned  water,  complained  of 
excessive  thirst,  and  burning  of  the  throat.  The  Sooloos 
employ  the  same  fruit,  and  another  plant,  which  grows 
wild,  and  which  they  call  "  Tubli,"  for  the  purpose  of 
poisoning  fish,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  "  Butong,"  or 
Barringtonia  speciosa,  is  used  at  Samboanga,  and  the 
Tephrosia  toxicaria  in  Borneo. 

The  Gomuti  Palm,  on  account  of  the  numerous  uses 
to  which  it  is  converted,  deserves  here  a  more  extended 
notice.  This  Palm,  besides  the  names  of  Aran  and  Gomuti, 
is  also  called  sometimes  Tuack,  Gumatty,  or  Cabo-Negro. 
Although  the  outer  covering  of  the  fruit  is  possessed  of 
such  poisonous  qualities,  yet  it  is  in  reality  one  of  the 
most  useful  Palms  indigenous  to  the  Indian  Islands.  The 
interior  of  the  fruit  is  used  as  a  sweetmeat ;  the  cut  ex- 
tremities of  the  peduncles  of  the  inflorescence  yield 
"  toddy,"  a  cooling,  grateful  beverage,  much  patronized 
by  the  natives  of  these  thirsty  regions ;  from  the  toddy, 
according  to  Crawford,  "the  only  sugar  used  by  the 
native  population  "  of  Java  is  prepared ;  the  reticulum  at 
the  base  of  the  petioles  of  the  leaves  constitutes  a  kind 
of  Coir,  a  substance  most  admirably  adapted  to  the 
manufacture  of  cables,  and  extensively  used  for  cordage 
of  every  description.  This  substance,  which  is  described 
by  Dalrymple  in  his  'Natural  Curiosities  of  Sooloo,' 
although  an  important  product  of  Sooloo,  is  met  with  in 
the  finest  state  at  Manado,  in  Celebes.  It  is  generally 
confounded  with  Coir,  which  is  produced  from  the  husk 
of  the  Cocoa-nut,  and  is  a  substance  known  to  few  who 
have  not  passed  the  strait  of  Malacca,  and  to  fewer  still 
the  manner  in  which  it  is  obtained.  Mr.  Dalrymple, 


THE  GOMUTI.  351 

moreover,  informs  us  that  the  Cabo-Negro  (Black  Head) 
resembles  the  Cocoa-nut  tree  in  the  figure  of  its  leaves 
and  trunk ;  but  the  former  are  of  a  dead  dark  green,  in 
comparison  with  the  Cocoa-nut  leaves.  Like  all  other 
Palms  it  shoots  out  its  leaves  at  the  top  only,  and  as  the 
tree  grows  up,  sheds  the  lowest.  From  the  lower  part, 
or  stalks,  of  these  leaves  (which,  he  observes,  form  the 
bark  of  all  Palms)  "the  gumatty  shoots  out  on  both 
sides  like  black  hair,  being,  in  fact,  nothing  more  than 
the  extension  of  the  finest  fibres,  whereof  the  stalks  and 
ribs  of  the  leaves  are  composed :  these  fibres  bind  the 
dead  leaves  around  the  tree,  so  that  the  trunk  has  a  very 
odd  appearance,  being  confined  in  a  rough  black  coat." 
These  leaves  being  taken  off  the  tree,  are  stripped  of  the 
hair,  and  it  is  said  the  Gumatty  must  be  beaten  to  free  it 
from  dirt,  and  then  spread  in  the  sun ;  two  or  three  days 
after  which,  the  larger  threads,  being  unfit  for  cordage, 
are  picked  out.  The  Gumatty  is  black  as  jet;  the  hairs 
extremely  strong,  and  resemble  the  Coir,  except  that 
they  are  longer  and  finer.  The  finest  hairs  make  the  best 
cordage,  which  ought  not  to  be  too  hard  laid ;  the  small 
hard  twigs  found  mixed  up  with  this  material  are  em- 
ployed as  pens,  and  form  the  shafts  of  the  sumpits,  or 
little  poisoned  arrows ;  and  underneath  the  reticulum  is  a 
soft,  silky  material,  used  as  tinder  by  the  Chinese,  and 
applied  as  oakum  in  caulking  the  seams  of  ships ;  while 
from  the  interior  of  the  trunk  a  kind  of  Sago  is  prepared. 
St.  Pierre  observes,  in  speaking  with  admiration  of  the 
Cocoa-nut  tree,  "  Tout  le  monde  sait  qu'  on  y  batit  un 
vaisseau  de  son  bois,  qu'on  en  fait  les  voiles  avec  les 
feuilles,  le  mat  avec  son  tronc,  les  cordages  avec  1'etoupe, 


352  CURIOUS  ORIGIN  OF  PEARLS. 

appellee  caire,  qui  entoure  son  fruit,  et  qu'  on  le  charge 
ensuite  avec  ses  Cocos ;"  but,  perhaps,  all  the  world  does 
not  know  that  the  Gomuti  Palin  is  nearly  as  valuable. 

The  people  of  Sooloo  appear  to  be  very  fond  of  amassing 
pearls  and  bezoar  stones,  and  there  is  scarcely  a  man  of 
any  pretensions  among  them,  who  will  not,  after  having 
been  in  your  society  a  short  while,  produce  mysteriously 
from  the  folds  of  his  sarong,  two  or  more  of  these  precious 
concretions.  The  pearls  are  of  different  sizes  and  very 
various  in  colour.  Those  from  the  Pinna,  are  black  and 
red ;  from  the  Tridacna  gigas,  dull  opaque  white ;  from 
the  Placuna  placenta,  of  a  lead-colour ;  from  the  true 
Pearl-Oyster  (Meleagrina  margaritifera),  they  are  fre- 
quently of  a  light  semi-transparent  straw-colour. 

Dalrymple,  in  his  account  of  the  pearl-fishery  of  Sooloo, 
gives  an  amusing  statement  regarding  the  Pinnotheres 
which  inhabit  the  pearl-shells.  He  terms  them  small 
lobsters,  and  says  there  are  two  in  each  shell ;  that  their 
beautiful  transparent  bodies  have  red  spots,  the  female 
white ;  and  that  the  latter  has,  under  the  tail  and  belly, 
many  eggs,  which  appeared  under  the  microscope  to  be 
"  Teepye  "  shells  (Pearl-Oysters).  "  There  is  from  hence 
room,"  he  adds,  "  to  conjecture  that  shell-fish,  in  general, 
are  generated  by  such  lobsters;  for  the  several  species 
common  in  the  Sooloo  Seas,  as  Manangcy,  Teepye,  Bato, 
Capees,  Beelong,  Bineong,  Seedap,  &c.,  &c.,  I  have  been 
assured  always  have  two  lobsters,  though  every  species  of 
shell-fish  has  a  distinct  species  of  the  lobster."  To  con- 
firm his  hypothesis,  by  an  appeal  to  the  philosophical 
judgment  of  the  natives,  he  adds  "  It  was  obvious  to  all 
the  Sooloos,  who  saw  the  egg  of  the  Teepye  lobster,  that 


SEA-SNAKES.  353 

it  was  a  proper  Teepye ;  and  they  were  from  thence  con- 
vinced, that  these  fish  are  generated  in  this  manner." 
The  Sultan,  on  this  occasion,  mentioned  a  fable  they  have 
amongst  them.  "  A  monkey  sitting  very  pensive  on  the 
shore,  with  his  arms  crossed,  as  they  often  do,  being 
asked  what  was  the  matter,  replied;  'He  was  consi- 
dering how  the  Mangancy*  are  produced.' ' 

I  have  detected  a  species  of  Pinnotheres,  hitherto  un- 
described  (P.  orientalis,  Adams  and  White,)  that  inhabits 
the  large  Avicula  so  common  in  these  seas. 

The  Sooloo  Seas  appear  to  be  swarming  with  Sea- 
snakes,  perhaps  on  account  of  the  calmness  of  the  water, 
and  heat  of  the  atmosphere  here,  which  tend  to  produce 
astonishing  fecundity  in  the  world  of  waters.  Sea-snakes 
always  appear  to  prefer  calms,  swimming  on  the  still  sur- 
face, in  an  undulating  manner,  never  raising  the  head 
much  from  the  surface,  or  vaulting  out  of  the  water. 
They  dive  with  facility  on  the  approach  of  danger,  but 
do  not  appear  to  be  particularly  timid.  Their  progression 
is  tolerably  rapid.  The  Malays  term  them  "  Ular  gerang." 
The  Pelamis  bicolor  is  common  all  over  the  China  and 
Indian  Seas.  I  have  seen  them  in  the  Seas  of  Mindoro 
and  Sooloo,  swimming  by  thousands  on  the  top  of  the 
water.  They  appear  especially  to  delight  in  calms,  and 
are  fond  of  eddies  and  tide-ways  where  the  ripple  collects 
numerous  fish  and  Medusae,  which  principally  constitute 
their  prey.  Their  lungs  resemble  the  air-bladders  of 
fishes  more  than  the  breathing  organs  of  Reptilia,  in 
general  being  simple,  elongated  sacs,  with  blood-vessels 
ramifying  over  their  parietes,  but  having  no  cells.  Their 
*  Mangancy,  a  kind  of  Pearl-oyster. 

VOL.  II.  2  A 


354  GREAT  SEA-SERPENT. 

tongue  is  white  and  forked,  differing  in  respect  of  its 
colour  from  the  tongue  of  other  Snakes  which  is  generally 
black.  The  two  forks  are  retractile  within  the  root,  and 
are  covered  with  two  horny  sheaths  which,  during  the 
casting  of  the  slough,  can  be  drawn  off  like  the  scales  of 
the  eyes.  In  some  genera,  as  HydropJds,  there  are  true 
poison  fangs,  but  of  smah1  size  compared  with  the  Colubri 
and  others ;  others  are  innocuous  as  the  Chersydrm,  while 
others  (Pelamis)  have  two  apertures  at  the  base  of  the 
two  terminal  palatine  teeth,  which  may  perhaps  serve  for 
the  exit  of  venom.  Dr.  Cantor  says,  in  speaking  of 
marine  serpents,  (Annals  and  Mag.  of  Nat.  Hist.  vol.  iii. 
p.  138.)  that  "all  the  species  are,  without  exception, 
highly  venomous."  Schlegel,  also  includes  the  Sea-snakes 
in  his  second  family  of  Venomous  Serpents  (page  184  of 
his  Physiognomy  of  Serpents).  Captain  Cook  in  one  of 
his  Voyages  "saw  abundance  of  Water-snakes,  one  of 
which  was  coming  up  the  side  of  our  ship,  and  our  men 
beat  it  off.  The  Spaniards  say  there  is  no  cure  for  such 
as  are  bit  by  them ;  and  one  of  our  blacks  happened  to 
fall  under  that  misfortune,  and  died,  notwithstanding  the 
utmost  care  was  taken  by  our  Surgeons  to  recover  him." 
In  the  Sooloo  Seas,  I  have  often  witnessed  the  pheno- 
menon which  first  gave  origin  to  the  marvellous  stories 
of  the  great  Sea-serpent,  namely  lines  of  rolling  porpoises, 
resembling  a  long  string  of  buoys,  oftentimes  extending 
seventy,  eighty,  or  a  hundred  yards.  These  constitute 
the  so-named  protuberances  of  the  monster's  back,  keep 
in  close  single  file,  progressing  rapidly  along  the  calm 
surface  of  the  water,  by  a  succession  of  leaps,  or  demi- 
vaults  forwards,  part  only  of  their  uncouth  forms  appearing 
to  the  eye.  At  the  same  moment  of  time,  I  have  seen 


WATERSPOUTS.  355 

beautifully-banded  Water-snakes,  of  the  thickness  of  a 
man's  leg,  lying  extended  supinely  along  the  glassy 
surface,  or  diving  and  swimming  gracefully,  with  slow 
undulating,  lateral  movements  of  their  vertically-com- 
pressed bodies. 

Waterspouts  were  very  common  phenomena,  in  these 
beautiful  seas,  many  dozens  occurring  all  around  us  at  the 
same  time.  They  were  of  small  size,  and  varied  consi- 
derably in  shape,  some  being  like  a  trumpet,  some  li^e 
a  very  wide-mouthed  funnel,  and  some  resembling  the 
curved  form  of  the  Cornucopia. 

To  give  some  idea  of  the  splendour  in  the  colouring  of 
tropical  fishes,  I  here  copy  from  my  journal  the  colours 
of  a  species  of  Balistes,  taken  by  us  at  Sooloo.  Upper  half 
of  body  pale  brown,  with  two  broad  stripes  of  deeper 
brown  extending  backwards  towards  the  dorsal  fin ;  four 
well-defined  and  narrow  streaks  descending  posteriorly  to 
anal  fin ;  a  bright  spot  of  ultramarine  blue  round  the 
anus ;  iris  golden ;  a  dark  greenish-brown,  triangular 
mark,  margined  with  deep  blue,  reaching  from  beneath 
the  eye  to  the  base  of  the  pectoral  fin ;  over  the  eye  and 
summit  of  the  head,  a  deep  blue  colour,  with  a  lighter 
streak  running  down  before  the  eye  to  base  of  pectoral 
fin ;  a  bright  blue  stripe  above  the  upper  lip,  reaching 
to  the  angle  of  the  mouth ;  from  this  point  to  a  little 
below  the  pectoral  fin,  a  deep  orange-yellow  stripe ;  all 
below  this,  and  on  the  belly,  pure  dead  white ;  a  pale 
oval  mark  on  the  tail ;  all  the  fins  light  semi-transparent 
brown.  A  Scorptena,  of  a  fine  brilliant  scarlet,  and  with 
very  poisonous  spines,  is  also  very  common  at  Sooloo  A 
Pegasus,  of  a  light  sea-green,  mottled  with  darker  green ; 

2A2 


356  SHELLS  AND  SHELL-FISH 

an  Ostrarion,  of  a  light  yellow  green,  with  minute  black 
spots;  a  Platax  of  a  pink-brown,  spotted  with  black 
towards  the  head,  and  the  rest  of  the  body  covered  with 
opaque  white  spots ;  and  a  remarkable  sharp-nosed  species 
of  RMnobatis,  of  a  dark,  rufous-brown  colour,  were  also 
procured  during  our  sojourn  at  this  place. 

Among  other  interesting  contributions  to  the  Concho- 
logical  collection  obtained  at  Sooloo,  the  dredge  furnished 
us  with  a  large  and  handsome  new  species  of  Cardium 
(C.  Bechei,  Adams  and  Reeve).*  This,  which  was  from 
about  forty  fathoms  water,  and  from  a  muddy  bottom,  is 
of  a  lovely  red-rose  colour,  with  a  semi-transparent,  thin, 
soft,  velvety  epidermis,  the  anterior  and  middle  portions 
of  the  shell  smooth,  but  the  posterior  part,  which  is  des- 
titute of  epidermis,  covered  with  ribs  of  short  compressed 
spines.  Several  very  large  and  beautiful  specimens  of 
Conus  thalassiarchm,  and  a  large  rare  species  of  Stomatia, 
together  with  many  new  and  interesting  Crustaceans, 
likewise  rewarded  our  research. 

The  animal  of  Conus  aulicus  has  the  proboscis  beauti- 
fully varied  with  red  and  white,  and  there  is  a  square 
and  very  minute  operculum  on  the  dorsal  surface  of  the 
hinder  part  of  the  foot.  Its  bite  produces  a  venomed 
wound,  accompanied  by  acute  pain,  and  making  a  small, 
deep,  triangular  mark,  which  is  succeeded  by  a  watery 
vesicle.  At  the  little  island  of  Meyo,  one  of  the  Moluc- 
cas, near  Ternate,  Sir  Edward  Belcher  was  bitten  by  one 
of  these  Cones,  which  suddenly  exserted  its  proboscis  as 
he  took  it  out  of  the  water  with  his  hand,  and  he  com- 
pares the  sensation  he  experienced  to  that  produced  by  the 
*  Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat,  Hist.  vol.  xix.  p.  417. 


CONTINUED.  357 

burning  of  phosphorus  under  the  skin.  The  instrument 
which  inflicted  the  wound,  in  this  instance,  I  conceive 
must  have  been  the  tongue,  which  in  these  mollusks,  is 
long,  and  armed  with  two  ranges  of  sharp-pointed  teeth. 

The  Cones  become  more  numerous  and  more  varied 
in  their  colours,  as  we  approach  the  equatorial  seas,  and 
they  form  bright  and  beautiful  ornaments  to  the  shores 
of  tropical  islands.  They  seem  to  prefer  obscure  holes 
in  the  rocks,  where  they  lead  a  predatory  life,  boring 
into  the  substance  of  the  shells  of  other  mollusks,  for 
the  purpose  of  sucking  the  juice  from  their  bodies.  They 
crawl  but  slowly  and  usually  with  their  tentacles  extended 
in  a  straight  line  before  them.  They  are  very  timid,  and 
shrink  within  their  shells  quickly  on  the  approach  of 
danger.  Some  affect  deep  water,  and  one  was  dredged 
by  us  in  the  Sunda  Straits,  in  thirty  fathoms ;  and 
another,  the  Conus  thalassiarchus,  at  Sooloo,  in  about 
forty  fathoms,  as  I  have  before  mentioned. 

To  be  convinced  of  the  comparatively  trifling  importance 
of  the  calcareous  secretions,  called  shells,  in  the  philo- 
sophical study  of  the  Mollusca,  we  have  only  to  glance 
at  the  different  genera  of  the  grand  Gasteropodous  divi- 
sion, where  we  shall  find  the  same  organization  scarcely 
at  all  modified  by  the  calcareous  deposits,  which  here 
assume  every  variety  of  form,  from  a  simple,  internal, 
horny,  dorsal  plate,  to  a  complicated,  spiral,  turbinated 
shell.  It  is  only  by  investigating  the  structure  and  pecu- 
liarities of  the  soft  parts,  and  studying  the  animals  as 
they  are  seen  crawling  about,  unmolested  in  their  native 
element,  that  we  can  arrive  at  any  distinct  notion  of  their 
Protean  forms,  and  of  their  relations  one  with  another. 


358  HABITS  OF  FICULA 

What  can  be  more  different  than  the  shells  of  P/iorus, 
Terebellum,  Strombus,  and  Rostettaria  ?  and  yet  my  ob- 
servations of  their  animals  have  proved  them  to  be  inti- 
mately connected,  with  the  same  habits  and  necessities, 
and  living  in  the  same  peculiar  manner.  Since  the 
labours  of  Cuvier,  Blainville,  Gray,  and  others,  naturalists 
have  never  doubted  the  importance  of  studying  the 
animals  that  construct  the  beautiful  shells  preserved  in 
our  cabinets,  and  which  serve  the  purpose  of  protecting 
the  more  delicate  viscera  of  the  inmate,  or  for  affording 
a  safe  asylum  for  their  eggs ;  but  the  peculiar  details  of 
the  animals  have  not  been  sufficiently  made  use  of  as 
generic  and  specific  distinctions. 

The  employment  of  the  dredge  gave  me  an  opportunity 
of  here  first  observing  the  animal  of  Ficula,  which  very 
much  resembles  that  of  Dolmm  in  the  large,  thin,  flattened 
foot,  rounded  in  front,  with  two  sharp,  angular,  lateral 
processes,  and  extended  and  acuminated  behind ;  in  the 
long,  recurved  siphon,  and  slender,  tapering  tentacula ;  in 
having  a  long  extensile  and  retractile  proboscis;  in  the  posi- 
tion of  the  organs  of  vision ;  and  in  the  general  shape, 
structure,  and  lightness  of  the  shell ;  while  the  singular 
fact  of  the  mantle  covering  the  sides  of  the  shell,  would 
seem  to  approximate  it  to  Calpurnus,  Ovulum,  Marginella 
and  the  Cowries. 

Although  exceedingly  timid  and  sensitive,  the  Ficula 
is  a  very  lively  animal,  when  observed  in  its  native 
waters,  crawling  along  with  considerable  velocity,  and, 
owing  probably  to  the  lightness  of  its  shell,  able  to 
ascend  with  facility  the  sides  of  a  glass  vessel,  which  held 
it  captive.  The  proboscis  is  rarely  exserted  when  the 


CONTINUED.  359 

animal  is  in  motion ;  but  the  long,  tapering  tentacles  are 
stretched  out  to  their  full  extent,  and  the  siphon  is  directed 
more  frequently  forwards  than  over  the  back  of  the 
animal.  The  animal  of  Ficula  ficoides  is  light,  marbled 
violet,  and  the  head  and  tentacles  are  white  ;  six  white, 
opaque  spots  are  arranged  round  the  upper  surface  of  the 
edge  of  the  foot ;  the  rest  of  the  body  is  light  delicate 
pink,  with  marbled  markings  of  a  darker  pink. 

In  another  species  which  I  observed,  and  of  which 
I  also  made  a  drawing,  (the  Ficula  Icevigata,  Reeve)  the 
mantle  is  bright  pink,  mottled  with  white  and  deeper 
pink,  the  under  surface  of  the  ventral  disc  being  of  a 
dark-chocolate  colour,  with  yellow,  scattered  spots ;  the 
head  and  neck  are  pink,  and  also  coloured  with  yellow  spots. 

The  Ficula  shells,  seen  in  cabinets,  convey  but  a  poor 
idea  of  these  handsome  mollusks,  observed  in  the  living 
state,  crawling  rapidly  along,  bearing  their  light,  elegantly- 
formed  shells,  easily  and  gracefully,  with  their  siphon 
erect,  their  foot  expanded,  like  a  broad  flattened  disc,  and 
their  bodies  ornamented  with  delicate  colours,  beautifully 
marbled,  and  moving  their  long,  flat  heads,  and  peering 
about  with  their  large,  bright  black  eyes,  in  a  manner 
which  is  surprising,  when  one  considers  the  position 
these  animals  occupy  in  the  scale  of  creation,  and  that 
but  a  very  small  share  of  intelligence  is,  in  general,  sup- 
posed to  be  the  lot  of  most  mollusca. 

At  Sooloo,  I  first  had  the  good  fortune  to  discover 
and  describe  the  animal  of  Terebettum,  and  thus  to  solve 
the  enigma  of  the  true  position  of  this  shell  in  the  con- 
chological  system.  Although  it  should  be  placed,  most 
probably,  between  Conns  and  Strombm,  it  has  been 


360  HABITS  OF  TEREBELLUM. 

variously  situated,  in  the  different  systems.  Linnaeus 
referred  it  to  the  Butta  family,  that  "  refuge  for  the  des- 
titute;" Cuvier  placed  it  between  Ovulum  and  Oliva; 
Lamark,  between  Cypraa  and  Ancillaria ;  Ferussac,  be- 
tween Cyprcea  and  Terebra;  Blainville  between  Conus 
and  Oliva;  Latreille,  between  Oliva  and  Ancillaria; 
and  Rang  between  Mitra  and  Ancillaria,  The  animal  is 
described  by  me  in  the  '  Annals  and  Magazine  of  Nat. 
Hist.'  vol.  xix.  p.  411. 

In  its  habits  the  animal  of  the  Terebelhm  is  exceed- 
ingly shy  and  timid,  retracting  its  body  into  the  shell  on 
the  slightest  alarm.  It  will  remain  stationary  for  a  long 
time,  moving  its  tentacles  about  cautiously  in  every 
direction,  when,  suddenly,  it  will  roll  over  with  its  shell, 
and  continue  again  perfectly  quiet.  They  appear  to  have 
all  the  muscular  energy,  vivacity,  and,  doubtless,  preda- 
tory boldness  possessed  by  the  Strombi,  which  they  also 
resemble  in  their  perfectly  organized  eyes,  and  quickness 
of  vision.  Mr.  Cuming  informs  me  he  has  seen  them 
leap  several  inches  from  the  ground,  exactly  as  I  have 
seen  the  animal  of  Strombus  gibberula.  On  one  occasion,  a 
beautiful  specimen  was  lost  to  the  above-mentioned 
enthusiastic  collector,  by  the  animal  suddenly  leaping  into 
the  water,  as  he  was  holding  and  admiring  it  in  the  palm 
of  his  hand.  Those  I  kept  in  confinement  died  in  a  few 
days,  and  appeared  to  be  of  a  more  delicate  constitution 
than  the  hardy  Strombus.  There  appears  to  be  a  very  trifling 
muscular  connexion  between  the  animal  and  its  shell. 

From  my  observations  of  the  animal  of  Terebellum, 
I  should  imagine  the  spotted  variety  to  be  perfectly 
distinct  as  a  species.  In  this,  which  may  be  called 


MALAY  VILLAGE.  361 

T.  maculosum,  the  proboscis  is  of  a  whitish-brown  colour, 
reddish  towards  the  tip ;  the  body  is  of  an  opaque  pearly 
white ;  the  mantle  transparent ;  the  foot  semi-pellucid 
white ;  the  ocular  peduncles  are  mottled  with  dark  red ; 
the  iris  is  brown  red,  and  the  pupil  black.  The  front  of 
the  mantle,  edging  the  anterior  part  of  the  shell,  is 
coloured  with  a  black  line,  forming  its  margin. 

In  the  common  species,  T.  subulatum,  the  eye-peduncles 
are  punctulated  with  red-brown,  as  is  likewise  the  upper 
and  under  part  of  the  fore-portion  of  the  body.  The  body 
is  opaque  pearly  white,  with  three  large,  irregular-shaped 
red-brown  blotches  on  the  fore  part.  The  under-surface 
of  the  foot  is  light  brown,  with  a  white  cross-like  marking 
of  a  deeper  brown  Doubtless,  when  the  animal  of  the 
variety  covered  with  zig-zag  markings  shall  have  been 
discovered,  it  will  also  be  found  to  be  specifically  distinct. 

We  landed  one  day  in  April  on  the  little  island  of 
Soolaree,  in  the  Sooloo  Archipelago,  where  the  Mangrove 
trees  grow  in  the  water  along  the  shores,  and  strange 
crabs,  and  fish  of  monstrous  forms,  live  beneath  their 
branches.  The  interior  of  the  island  we  found  to  be  a 
salt  marsh,  in  one  part  forming  a  lagoon,  on  whose  banks 
was  a  pretty  little  Malay  village,  peopled  by  fishermen. 
Emissaries  were  sent  inviting  us  to  visit  their  hamlet ; 
and  on  our  proceeding  to  the  spot,  we  were  received  by 
the  chief,  and  some  twenty  other  Malays,  all  armed  with 
the  lance  and  kris.  Having  presented  him  with  a  trifle, 
in  the  form  of  a  handkerchief  for  the  head,  he  very  civilly 
escorted  us  to  our  boats,  and  affectionately  took  his  leave. 
These  men  were  probably  pirates,  and  had  our  force  been 
smaller,  their  character  might  have  been  very  different ; 
but  there  is  guile  even  in  a  savage !  and  might  with 


362  BAS1LAN. 

them  is  ever  right.  Many  a  true  tale  of  the  crews  of 
merchantmen,  slaughtered  in  cold  blood  by  these  merci- 
less freebooters,  that  constitute  the  curse  of  Malayan  Asia, 
might  be  mentioned  in  confirmation  of  this  sad  truth. 

On  the  2 1st  of  April,  1844,  we  touched  at  Basilan, 
which  we  also  again  visited  in  March,  1845,  and  March, 
1846,  on  which  last  occasion  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
catching  a  glimpse  of  some  of  the  scenery  of  the  island, 
and  thus  it  happened. 

While  lying  off  Passan,  a  new  establishment  of  the 
Spaniards  on  the  island,  I  had  occasion  to  visit  the 
Commandante,  who  was  very  ill  of  fever  and  dysentery, 
and  after  doing  him  all  the  good  in  my  power,  I  was 
persuaded  to  remain  and  spend  the  day  with  the 
Officers  in  their  newly-erected  wooden  castle.  After 
partaking  of  a  capital  dinner,  where  wine  and  choice 
liqueurs  were  not  wanting,  on  my  expressing  a  wish  to 
obtain  some  specimens  of  the  Flying-Poxes,  which  are 
very  numerous  in  the  island,  a  little  expedition  was  im- 
mediately planned,  and,  in  a  very  short  time,  a  strong 
party  of  us  started  on  foot,  armed  with  fowling-pieces, 
into  the  interior  of  the  forest  behind  the  fort ;  and  I 
confess  I  was  amused  at  the  very  motley  group  we 
formed.  One  Spanish  gentleman,  very  stout  and  with 
enormous  moustaches,  wore  a  huge  "  Sombrero,"  and 
carried  a  thick  club-shaped  stick ;  another,  a  shrivelled 
little  man,  with  a  sharp  nose,  was  dressed  in  white,  even 
to  his  hat,  which  was  made  of  thin  pith, 'and  covered  with 
white  calico ;  another  carried  two  guns,  and  was  dressed 
like  a  sporting  gentleman  on  the  first  of  September ;  while 
another  wore  a  loose  blouse,  and  a  wide-brimmed  straw 
hat. 


NATIVES.  363 

Having  advanced  a  considerable  distance  into  the  wood, 
and  traversed  some  of  the  most  romantic  glades  I  had 
seen,  even  in  the  tropics,  without  observing  anything  but  a 
wild  pig,  and  a  small  species  of  civet  cat,  we  came  to  the 
banks  of  a  small,  deep,  still,  dark-coloured  river,  with 
the  lofty  trees  meeting  over  our  heads,  and  crowded  with 
pigeons.  Here,  as  if  to  compensate  ourselves  for  our 
disappointment  in  not  meeting  any  Galeopitheci,  we  all 
eagerly  commenced  firing  at  the  poor  doves,  and  the 
result  was  the  death  of  a  considerable  number,  and  among 
them  several  Vinagoes,  with  splendid  metallic-green 
plumage.  While  engaged  in  this  recreation,  several 
women  and  children,  with  two  men,  belonging  to  the 
hostile  parties  on  the  other  side  of  the  island,  passed 
timidly  by  us,  and,  stepping  into  a  canoe,  paddled  rapidly 
out  of  sight.  These  poor  people  had  come,  at  the  risk 
of  their  lives,  with  eggs  and  vegetables  for  the  use  of  the 
Spaniards,  and  I  was  informed  that  if  their  own  people 
were  acquainted  with  the  fact,  they  would  all  be  "  krissed." 
A  sharp  look  out  was  kept  by  all  our  party,  for  the 
natives,  stealing  through  the  wood,  often  lie  in  ambush 
for  those  that  venture  out  of  the  fort,  and  shoot  them; 
any  mode  being  justifiable  in  their  eyes,  in  getting  rid  of 
their  European  invaders.  One  of  the  Spanish  soldiers 
was  shot  in  this  manner  two  days  before.  So  sudden 
are  the  Malays  of  Basilan,  and  so  secret  in  their  move- 
ments, that  the  Spaniards  are  constantly  on  the  watch  to 
guard  against  surprise,  and  unexpected  attacks.  Although 
very  large  in  numbers,  and  very  brave,  the  natives  are 
easily  repulsed  on  account  of  their  want  of  fire-arms,  and 
their  desultory  mode  of  warfare.  The  friendly  Basilan 


364  SPIDERS. 

people  I  saw  reposing  in  groups  about  the  fort,  appeared 
to  be  a  very  fine,  and  even  handsome  race,  both  men 
and  women. 

The  ground  in  this  part  of  the  forest,  was  literally 
over-run  with  a  small  black,  agile,  species  of  Lycosa, 
many  of  which  had  a  white,  flattened,  globose  cocoon 
affixed  to  the  ends  of  their  abdomens.  It  was  most 
amusing  to  watch  the  earnest  solicitude  with  which  these 
jealous  mothers  protected  the  cradles  of  their  little  ones, 
allowing  themselves  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy, 
rather  than  be  robbed  of  the  silken  nests  that  contained 
their  helpless  progeny.  All  Spiders  are  gifted  with  the 
same  "  storge,"  or  maternal  instinct,  and  resort  to  various 
methods  for  the  purpose  of  securing  their  cocoons.  The 
TJteridion,  when  a  seizure  of  the  precious  burden  is 
threatened,  tumbles,  together  with  it,  to  the  ground,  and 
remains  motionless,  guarding  it  with  solicitous  anxiety ; 
and  the  Tliomisus  covers  the  receptacle  of  its  offspring 
with  its  body,  and  when  robbed  of  it,  wanders  about  dis- 
consolate. Did  the  minute  size  of  these  poor  Spiders 
admit  of  the  same  psycological  dissertations,  anecdotes  as 
interesting,  no  doubt,  as  those  told  of  the  she-bear,  when 
robbed  of  her  cubs,  or  the  violent  emotions  of  the  Lioness, 
when  disturbed  in  her  maternal  duties,  by  the  hunters 
in  the  jungle,  might  be  recorded,  proving  how  strong  is  the 
love  of  offspring,  even  in  animals  the  most  insignificant. 

While  staying  at  Basilan,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  ob- 
serving the  animal  of  Ovulum  volva,  in  a  living  state,  and 
shall  shortly  mention  its  habits.  The  Radius  is  slow  and 
languid  in  its  movements,  sliding  along  deliberately,  and 
is  not  more  sensible  to  alarm  than  Cyprcea  or  Calpurnus. 


WILD  ANIMALS.  365 

From  the  foot  being  rather  narrow,  and  folded  longitu- 
dinally upon  itself,  this  animal,  no  doubt,  is  in  the  habit 
of  crawling  upon,  and  adhering  to,  the  slender,  round, 
coral-branches,  and  fuci,  in  the  manner  of  certain  other 
Ovula  and  many  Doridida.  Dredged  in  five  fathoms 
from  a  rocky  coral  bottom.  One  barren  island  rock,  not 
far  from  Basilan,  was  covered  with  vast  numbers  of  Ostrcea 
crista-galli,  firmly  attached  by  calcareous  matter,  to  the 
surface  of  the  coral  masses,  which  were  pierced,  moreover, 
with  Lithodomi,  Petricola,  and  other  boring  Mollusks. 
The  sharpened  appetites  of  ourselves  and  men,  were  plea- 
santly appeased  by  knocking  off^  the  upper  valves,  and 
devouring  the  coarse,  though  not  unsavoury  contents  of 
these  dishes,  spread  by  nature  for  our  entertainment  and 
gratification. 

Anchored  off  the  eastern  coast  of  Borneo,  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Unsang,  for  the  purpose  of  surveying,  and  taking 
observations,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  many 
new  and  interesting  productions  of  that  little-known 
Island.  On  either  side  of  the  encampment  on  shore,  was 
a  vast  extent  of  untrodden  forest,  abounding  with  wild 
animals  of  various  descriptions.  Tracks  of  enormous 
apes  appeared  in  the  sands ;  tiger-cats  and  lynxes  were 
seen  roaming  about  in  the  shade  of  the  matted  jungle ; 
and  boars,  of  large  dimensions,  came  rooting  and  grunting 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  tents.  An  adjutant  or 
gigantic  Crane  (Ardea  Mirabou},  four  feet  high,  was  shot, 
and  brought  on  board ;  a  huge  Monitor  Lizard  (Hydro- 
saurus  giyanteus),  five  feet  long,  and  spotted  with  dull 
yellow,  was  also  killed  and  converted  into  soup.  The 
Crocodile  (Crocodilus  biporcatus},  must  occasionally  attain 


366  INSECTS. 

to  a  very  large  size  in  Borneo,  judging  from  an  enormous 
skull  found  whitening  on  the  beach.  The  owner  must 
at  least  have  been  twenty-eight  feet  long. 

Among  the  insects,  I  noticed,  as  being  most  common 
in  this  province  (Unsang)  was  a  species  of  Monochama, 
with  the  elytra  elegantly  marked  with  longitudinal,  red 
stripes,  alternating  with  opaque-white  stripes  marked 
across  with  deep  black,  triangular,  spots,  and  brick-dust- 
coloured  thorax,  with  three  longitudinal  black  bands. 
Another  truly  splendid  insect,  was  a  Catacanthus,  of  the 
subgenus  Chalicoris,  with  a  scarlet  body,  and  head  of 
burnished  green ;  a  thorax  of  a  purple-green  with  a  me- 
tallic lustre,  having  a  broad,  bright  scarlet,  semi-lunar, 
transverse  band ;  the  long  scutellum,  half  green  and  half 
scarlet,  and  the  elytra  white,  with  green  and  scarlet  marks. 
Another  remarkable  form,  belonged  to  Platyrkinidte,  a 
connecting  link  between  the  Curcnlionidce  and  the  Longi- 
corns.  It  was  of  a  dull,  dark,  olive-brown,  with  a  bronze- 
coloured  head  and  antennae,  with  alternate  black  and  white 
rings.  A  species  of  Mastax,  allied  to  M.  vitrea  (West.  Arc. 
Ent.  t.  22.  f.  2.)  but  differing  in  the  ends  of  the  elytra 
being  incised,  was  also  procured.  This  species  I  have 
named  M.  Whitei,  after  that  enthusiastic  entomologist, 
Mr.  Adam  White  of  the  British  Museum,  to  whom  I  am 
indebted  for  the  scientific  names  of  many  insects  previ- 
ously unknown  to  ine.  It  is  of  a  dark  brown  colour,  with 
two  transparent  white  spots  near  the  ends  of  the  elytra, 
and  wings  of  a  light,  semi-pellucid  brown.  A  new  species 
of  Scyanm,  entirely  of  a  black  colour,  with  light  brown, 
semi-pellucid  wings,  and  several  species  of  Reduvius,  a 
genus  which  appears  in  Borneo,  and  I  believe  elsewhere, 


CAPE  RIVERS.  367 

to  assume  every  conceivable  modification  of  montrous  form. 
One  species  had  a  yellow  body,  green  thorax,  and  wings 
nearly  opaque;  another  had  golden-brown  wings,  and  a 
shining  coal-black  body.  Under  the  shade  of  the  Casu- 
arina-trees,  and  burrowing  in  the  ground,  was  a  hand- 
some Gymnopleurus,  a  remarkable  looking  insect  of  a 
black  colour,  and  like  all  the  insects  of  that  family,  pos- 
sessed of  enormous  strength.  To  this  may  be  added,  a 
species  of  Popilia,  closely  allied  to  the  P.  cyanea  of  Hope, 
but  most  probably  a  new  species ;  of  a  bright  polished- 
steel  blue,  inclining  to  deep  purple,  viewed  in  certain 
lights;  and,  in  the  same  locality,  under  leaves  on  the 
ground,  was  detected  a  handsome,  polished  black  Passalus. 
At  Cape  Rivers  in  the  Straits  of  Macassar,  were  seen 
the  star-like  tentacles  of  the  Tubipora  musica,  of  a  pale 
delicate  white,  striped  with  light  blue,  expanded  in 
large  masses ;  the  red  Pinnatula,  lying  dead  upon  the 
beach,  with  the  pellucid  plates  of  the  beautiful  Velella 
and  fragile  Porpita ;  the  elegant  jointed  Isis,  throwing 
its  branches  in  every  direction,  among  large  beds  of  other 
corals,  and  various  madrepores  strewing  the  margins  of 
the  pools.  The  large  and  ugly  "  biche  de  mer  "  (Holo- 
thuria  tremula),  lay  extended  on  the  sandy  patches,  and, 
to  every  stone,  the  sea  anemonies,  with  their  brilliant 
tentacles,  were  exploring  the  warm^  shallow  waters  for 
their  food.  The  dark  and  slug-like  bodies  of  Parmopkori, 
and  the  crawling  forms  of  Stomatetta,  were  seen  moving 
and  sliding  among  the  coral  beds,  while  scarce  a  stone 
was  turned,  without  observing  Chitonetti  crawling  on  the 
under  surface.  In  every  part  where  solid  rock  was  seen, 
the  bright,  blue  branchiae  of  Tridacnce  were  visible  in 


368  FOREST  SCENERY. 

their  stony  houses,  while  crabs,  of  every  form,  were  found 
concealed  in  corners,  greedy,  rapacious,  and  devouring. 

There  is  some  very  fine  forest  scenery  in  Celebes.  I  have 
wandered  several  times  in  the  uninhabited  parts  of  the 
coasts  for  whole  days,  with  no  other  company  than  my 
own  thoughts,  and  the  sights  and  sounds  of  nature.  I  have 
already  endeavoured  to  picture  the  forests  of  Borneo : 
those  of  Celebes  are  very  similar.  The  trunks  and 
branches  of  the  trees  here,  as  elsewhere  in  the  Tropics, 
are  covered  with  Bauhinia,  and  other  huge  climbing 
plants,  which  suspend  themselves,  like  monstrous  serpents, 
from  the  trees,  twisting  their  folds  sometimes  so  tight  as 
to  strangle  and  eventually  destroy  the  plants  they  em- 
brace ;  on  every  side  you  notice  that  fragrant 

"  parasites 

Starr'd  with  ten  thousand  blossoms,  flow  around 
The  grey  trunks;" 

gigantic  Lycopodiacece,  or  club  mosses,  are  frequently 
met  with,  rearing  their  elegant  heads  from  among  the 
damp  beds  of  decaying  leaves ;  the  prostrate  trunks  are 
covered  with  Opegrceplia,  and  other  Lichenoid  plants, 
which  spread  their  distempered-looking  thatti  over  the 
loose  bark ;  while  on  the  shaded  side,  and  often  concealed 
by  the  tree,  minute  and  delicately  formed  Fungi  of  the 
most  extravagant  forms,  live  their  little  hour,  and  are 
succeeded  by  a  crop  equally  as  ephemeral.  Bamboo 
thickets  are  common  in  some  parts,  and  the  slender 
branches,  and  light  quivering  leaves,  produce  those  pecu- 
liar changing  shadows  you  often  see  in  dense  forests  where 
the  sun  partially  shines  through  the  foliage ;  a  fact  which 
did  not  escape  the  observant  eye  of  the  Bard  of  Avon ; 


CONTINUED.  369 

in   'Titus  Andronicus,'  he  thus  alludes  to  this  pecu- 
liarity : — 

"  The  green  leaves  quiver  with  the  cooling  wind 
And  make  a  chequered  shadow  on  the  ground." 

I  have  frequently  seen  the  Bamboo,  that  magnificent 
member  of  the  grassy-tribe,  waving  aloft  its  feathery 
sprays  in  groves,  more  than  forty  feet  high.  The  ap- 
pearance of  the  epiphytic  vegetation,  in  these  forests, 
exactly  resembles,  in  some  spots,  the  vineyards  full  of 
trees  so  eloquently  mentioned  by  Dickens  : — "  The  wild 
festoons ;  the  elegant  wreaths,  and  crowns,  and  garlands 
of  all  shapes ;  the  fairy  nets  flung  over  great  trees,  and 
making  them  prisoners  in  sport ;  the  tumbled  heaps  and 
mounds  of  exquisite  shapes  upon  the  ground ;  how  rich 
and  beautiful  they  are  !  And  every  now  and  then,  a 
long,  long  line  of  trees  will  be  all  bound  and  garlanded 
together,  as  if  they  had  taken  hold  of  one  another,  and 
were  coming  dancing  down  the  field  !"* 

What  must  ever  strike  a  European  observer  in  tro- 
pical forests,  is  the  singular  want  of  any  of  those  autumnal 
signs  of  partial  decay,  or  vernal  indications  of  gradual 
development,  seen  in  climes  more  temperate.  There  are 
no  mellow  tints,  or  boughs  covered  with  young  green 
buds ;  no  red  withered  leaves  falling  from  the  trees ;  but 
always  renovation  and  dissolution,  always  the  same 
quantity  of  dead  rotting  leaves,  and  the  same  dense  mass 
of  dark  green  foliage,  wherever  the  woods  are  entered, 
whether  in  the  dry  or  rainy  season.  In  many  parts  of 
these  forests  I  noticed  a  vast  number  of  Fungi,  those 
scavengers  of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  which  insignificant, 

*  Pictures  from  Italy,  p.  90. 
VOL.  II.  2  B 


370  COMPARISONS. 

and  unpretending,  spring  up  on  every  fallen  tree,  and, 
disguised  under  a  thousand  grotesque  forms,  prey  upon, 
and  consume  the  decayed  and  putrefying  wood.  But 
though  these  tall  trees,  shorn  of  all  their  pride  and  beauty, 
as  the  poet  Shelley  says,  in  his  poem  of  '  Queen  Mab,' 
in  a  beautiful  simile  : — 

"  Lie  level  with  the  earth  to  moulder  there, 
They  fertilize  the  land  they  long  deformed ; 
Till  from  the  breathing  lawn  a  forest  springs 
Of  youth,  integrity,  and  loveliness, 
Like  that  which  gave  it  life,  to  spring  and  die." 

Whatever  of  grand  or  beautiful  may  be  seen  in  the 
forests  of  the  torrid  zone,  yet  the  observer  of  nature,  if 
he  be  of  European  origin,  will  always  sigh  in  vain  for 
certain  simple  signs  of  landscape  scenery,  and  woodland 
peculiarities  once  familiar  to  him  in  other  lands.  Where 
will  he  find  in  Borneo  or  Celebes,  commons  covered  with 
purple  blooming  Heather,  or  brown  dusky  glens  orna- 
mented with  the  drooping  bells  of  the  Fox -glove,  or  snug 
little  coppices  where  the  Wild  Rose  and  the  Hawthorn 
mingle  with  the  graceful  Ash  and  silver-barked  Birch? 
Sombre,  dense,  and  towering  masses  of  foliage,  trees 
beyond  trees  in  never  ending  avenues ;  these  take  the 
place  of  more  lively  rural  scenes.  And  among  the 
feathered  race,  what  birds,  however  gaudy  their  plumage, 
or  vivacious  their  movements,  can  vie  with  pretty  Cock- 
robin,  the  saucy  Jay,  or  the  pert  chattering  Magpie  with 
its  long  black  tail  ?  Can  the  harsh  scream  of  the  Parrot 
compare  with  the  sweet  melody  of  our  summer  songsters, 
their  plaintive  monotony,  or  shrill  pipings,  or  even  with 
the  clamorous  cawings  of  the  Rooks  that  build  their  nests 
on  the  tall  Elm  trees  ? 


INSECT-ADAPTATIONS.  371 

What  can  be  more  delightful,  than  to  enter  a  forest 
abounding  in  examples,  for  the  purpose  of  satisfying 
your  mind  whether  there  is  any  truth  in  the  statement 
that  the  tongues  and  jaws  of  Lepidopterous  insects,  or 
Butterflies,  are  adapted  in  length  to  the  corollas  of 
the  flowers  they  suck;  so  that  a  tubular  blossom  is 
rifled  by  an  elongated  proboscis,  and  a  salver-shaped 
corolla  by  a  short  obtuse  muzzle.  In  the  Silk- worm 
Moths,  which  do  not  require  food  in  the  Imago  state, 
the  mouth  is  not  developed ;  but  in  the  Humming-bird 
Hawk-moth,  which  hovers  about  tubular  flowers,  and 
greedily  extracts  the  nectar,  the  tongue  is  of  enormous 
length. 

The  beautiful  adaptation  of  insects,  at  large,  to  the 
flowers  on  which  they  feed,  is  well  shown  by  St.  Pierre, 
in  the  Bee.  He  observes  : — "  Nous  voyons  avec  plaisir 
les  relations  de  la  trompe  d  'une  abeille  avec  les  nectaires 
des  fleurs ;  celles  de  ses  cuisses  creusees  en  cuillers  et 
herissees  de  poils,  avec  les  poussieres  des  etamines  qu  'elle 
y  entasse ;  celle  de  ses  quatre  ailes,  avec  le  butin  dont 
elle  est  chargee ;  enfin  1  'usage  du  long  aiguillon  qu  'elle 
.en  a  reyu  pour  la  defense  de  son  bien."* 

During  a  stroll   one   day  into   the  forest  of  Celebes, 

I  was  very  much  struck  with  the  ingenuity  of  a  large 

species  of  Bee,  which  frequented,  in  great  numbers,  a  tree 

loaded  with  monopetalous  corollas,  furnished  with  a  very 

long  tube.    The  slender  trunk  of  the  Bee  was,  doubtless, 

too   short  to  reach  the  honied  store  concealed  in  the 

nectary  at  the  bottom,  and  therefore  its  "long,  narrow 

pump,"  as  Paley  terms  the  promuscis  of  Hymenopterous 

*  Etudes  de  la  Nature. 

•2  u  2 


372  ANECDOTE  OF  A  BEE. 

insects,  was  of  no  avail ;  our  Bee,  nothing  daunted,  sawed 
through  the  base  of  the  corolla,  where  it  joins  the  calyx, 
with  its  fore  legs,  and  then  shoving  it  to  the  ground  with 
its  head,  sucked  up  the  honey  "  ad  libitum."  Speaking  of 
the  Bee,  Paley  observes,  "  The  harmless  plunderer  rifles 
the  sweets,  but  leaves  the  flower  uninjured ;"  this  wicked 
insect,  however,  not  only  robs  the  blossom  of  its  nectar, 
but  leaves  ruin  behind.  Many  years  ago,  I  remember 
noticing  that  the  Humble-Bee  of  England,  as  he 

"  Sits  on  the  bloom,  extracting  liquid  sweets," 

employs  frequently  his  feet  for  the  same  purpose,  in  cases 
where  the  tube  of  the  corolla  is  of  greater  length  than 
usual ;  as,  for  example  in  the  Jasmine. 

In  the  forests  of  Celebes,  I  procured,  also  among  many 
other  insects,  two  Elaters,  one  with  yellowish-brown 
elytra,  and  the  other  with  the  wing-cases  covered  with 
mouse-coloured  hair ;  a  Languria,  with  a  green  head,  an 
orange  thorax,  and  burnished  green  elytra,  marked  with 
punctulated,  longitudinal  striae ;  a  Lucanus,  of  a  tawny 
yellow  colour,  with  a  reddish-brown  head,  and  three 
black  marks  on  the  thorax,  and  the  elytra  margined  with 
black;  an  Anthribidous  of  a  greenish-ash  colour,  with, 
dull,  opaque,  dark,  black  markings ;  an  Elater  of  the 
genus  Calais,  Laporte,  Alans,  Eschsch;  most  probably 
a  new  species,  with  the  head  and  body  covered  with  a 
hoary  pubescence,  and  on  the  thorax,  a  large,  shining, 
longitudinal,  oval,  black  spot,  and  four  smaller  round 
spots  arranged  about  it,  and  the  elytra  marbled  and 
mottled  with  black ;  a  Cicindela,  very  near  C.  Chinensis, 
of  a  dull  sap  green,  and  yellow  marks  on  the  elytra  ;  a 
remarkable  species  of  Apocyrtus,  of  an  ash  colour,  covered 


BEETLES.  373 

with  minute  black  spots ;  a  Micraspis,  one  of  the  Cocci- 
nellidfB,  with  bright  orange  elytra,  margined  at  their 
inner  edges,  with  black,  and  having  a  large,  curved, 
linear,  black  mark  in  the  centre  of  each.  To  these  may 
be  added  a  Galeruca,  of  a  pale  straw  colour,  with  black 
spots  on  the  thorax ;  a  Langmia,  with  a  reddish-brown 
head,  and  dark  metallic  green,  brightly  polished  elytra, 
which  alights  on  the  blades  of  the  Zea  mays,  and  leaves 
of  other  plants,  in  open  sunny  places,  and  is  very  active 
on  the  wing ;  a  curious  genus  of  Anthribidte,  entirely 
covered,  when  alive,  with  a  white  mealy  powder,  which, 
when  rubbed  off,  leaves  the  elytra  of  a  dark  gray,  and 
shows  longitudinal  rows  of  alveoli,  or  pits ;  an  Agrilus, 
with  a  brilliant  green  head,  and  dark  bronzed,  black 
elytra,  and  a  body  of  the  most  vivid  blue,  which  flies 
rapidly,  and  alights  to  sun  itself  on  leaves ;  an  Anthraxia 
of  a  burnished  emerald  green,  which  is  very  active  in  its 
motions,  alighting  on  the  leaves  and  stalks  of  plants  in 
the  sunny  glades  of  the  forest.  Besides  these,  a  Brentus 
of  a  red  chesnut  brown,  and  highly  polished  body  struck 
me  as  being  a  most  remarkable  form  among  the  Coleop- 
tera,  which  abound  in  these  woods,  so  fecund  in  these 
"  resuscitated  worms,"  as  Cowper  terms  insects  in  their 
perfect  state. 

Near  Manado,  there  is  a  woody  tract,  not  far  from  the 
river  that  runs  through  the  town,  which  abounds  in 
Gelasimi  of  the  most  beautiful  colours.  I  have  described 
and  tigured  one  species,  allied  to  G.  bcllator  (White),  of 
a  green  colour,  with  black  markings ;  another,  black,  with 
two  bright  ultramarine  spots  in  the  centre  of  the  carapace; 
and  another  grey,  marbled  with  white,  with  an  enormous 
light  yellow  chela.  These  cover  the  ground  by  thousands, 


374  LAND-CRABS. 

stalking  about  and  holding  up  their  single  huge  claws  in 
a  most  ridiculous  manner.  Notwithstanding,  they  ap- 
pear to  be  overburdened  with  this  unwieldly  member, 
they  are  by  no  means  easy  to  capture;  but  on  the 
slightest  attempt  upon  their  liberty  they  run  quickly  to 
the  mouth  of  their  burrows  for  protection,  where  they 
will  boldly  wait  and  see  if  the  enemy  makes  any  further 
advances;  and,  if  he  does,  they  retreat  quickly  backwards, 
holding  out  their  pincer  as  a  weapon  of  defence.  In  the 
pools  of  fresh  water,  and  under  damp  stones,  a  dark 
olive-green  Sesarma,  with  bright  yellow  blotches,  may  be 
seen  concealed ;  but  on  the  slightest  attempt  to  take  the 
stranger  captive,  he  is  off  with  the  greatest  velocity, 
darting  under  the  leaves,  and  scrambling  over  sticks, 
until  he  finds  security  either  in  a  hole  of  the  ground,  or 
under  the  mud  of  the  pools ;  while  on  the  coast,  the 
observer  cannot  fail  to  be  delighted  and  amused  with  the 
elegant  and  agile  Thelphma  grapsoides,  which,  by  its 
beauty  and  brilliancy,  gives  life  and  animation  to  the 
coral  flats,  left  dry  by  the  receding  tide. 

Another  Crab,  which  appears  to  be  rather  common 
also,  among  the  Philippines,  is  the  Chasmagnatlms  con- 
veams  (De  Haan).  It  lives  in  the  firm  black  mud  of 
Manila  Bay,  and  in  other  parts  of  Luzon,  in  company 
with  the  Lingula  anatina  and  Area  inequivalvis.  Like 
the  Xenophthalmus  pinnotheroides  (White),  it  doubtless 
forms  oblique,  cylindrical  holes  in  the  surface  of  the 
mud,  somewhat  in  the  manner  of  the  Macrophthalmi,  and 
Scopimera  globosa. 

On  the  23rd  we  arrived  at  the  little  island  of  Meyo, 
which  appears  to  be  not  very  long  recovered  from  a  state 
of  volcanic  sterility,  bearing  scarcely  any  traces  of  vege- 


ZOOLOGY  OF  MEYO.  375 

tation  on  its  blackened,  scoriaceous  surface.  The  light 
porous  rock,  that  composes  the  principal  part  of  the 
island,  is  raised  in  heaps  of  jagged  points  and  pinnacles, 
and  has,  altogether  a  most  unpromising  appearance  to  the 
naturalist ;  and  yet,  even  on  such  a  barren  spot  as  this, 
nature  holds  out  some  objects  for  our  entertainment. 

As  the  boat  approached  the  abrupt  and  barren  shore, 
a  young  Whale  bared  its  back,  and  spouted  close  along- 
side of  us ;  and  a  little  nearer  the  island,  two  Turtles,  of 
the  right  sort,  came  floating  by,  with  lazy,  flapping  fins, 
and  narrowly  escaped  being  turned  into  soup  by  the  boat's 
crew.  Close  in  shore,  myriads  of  banded  Ch&todons  and 
party-coloured  Scari  glided  through  the  calm  water 
among  the  rocks ;  and,  as  we  landed,  a  large  black 
Lizard,  a  species  of  Hydrosaurm,  upwards  of  four  feet 
long,  scaled  the  rocks  immediately  above  us.  On  the 
right,  heavy  rollers  came  tumbling  in  from  seaward, 
between  huge  perpendicular  rocks,  rushing  impetuously 
through  a  wide,  time-worn  chasm,  and  receding  as  violently 
as  they  entered,  forming  a  perfect  "Maelstrom,"  and 
looking  like  the  interior  of  some  enormous  caldron,  in 
a  state  of  ebullition.  In  another  part,  the  sea  recedes, 
and  leaves  exposed  a  long,  flat,  stony  beach,  with  shallow 
pools,  dug  in  the  rock,  abounding  with  small  fish  and 
molluscous  animals  of  various  descriptions.  The  large 
and  showy  Cyprcea  tigris  was  here  seen  crawling  about 
by  hundreds,  generally  in  the  shade  of  the  steep  banks  of 
the  ponds,  or  hiding  away  in  crevices.  Troc/ti  and  Tur- 
bines, Cones,  and  Turbinellce  were  equally  numerous,  and 
offered,  as  may  be  readily  supposed,  a  rich  treat  to  the 
conchologist,  who  walking  among  them  as  they  gemmed 


376  NATIVES  OF  THE  MOLUCCAS 

the  rocks,  like  so  many  animated  flowers,  gathered  the 
prettiest  and  most  brilliant,  leaving  the  others  to  pursue 
their  nearly  vegetable  lives  unmolested. 

Among  the  fish  procured  by  me  in  the  pools  left  by 
the  tide  on  the  shores  of  this  little  island,  was  a  Scorpcena 
of  a  dark,  mottled  brown,  with  darker  grey-brown  spots, 
and  a  light  brown  belly ;  a  Chatodon,  of  a  blue  silvery 
grey,  darker,  and  with  a  greenish  tinge  towards  the  back, 
and  a  bright  silvery  belly ;  a  Blennius,  of  a  dark  olive  green, 
rufous  towards  the  head,  and  greyish  towards  the  back,  and 
both  body  and  fins  covered  with  vivid,  linear,  ultramarine 
spots  and  markings ;  and  a  species  of  Hippm,  with  a 
blue-grey  body,  darker  towards  the  dorsal  region,  and 
with  broad  oblique  bands  of  black  and  white  on  the  tail. 

Our  very  brief  sojourn  among  the  Spice  Islands  did 
not  enable  us  to  gather  much  information  concerning  the 
inhabitants  of  that  group;  but  from  those  I  had  an 
opportunity  of  observing  at  Ternate  and  Gilolo,  I  should 
say  that  they  are  of  a  darker  brown  than  the  Malays, 
with  larger  heads,  longer  upper  lips,  smaller  and  more 
sunken  eyes,  and  broader  and  flatter  noses ;  but  these 
observations  may  not  be  generally  characteristic  among 
the  entire  population,  but  apply  to  individuals  only. 
They  are  called  Malukus  of  which  the  term  Moluccas 
appears  to  be  only  a  corruption.  There  were  many  of 
this  race  of  men  among  the  Illanons  on  board  the  fleet  of 
prahus  that  attacked  the  Samarang's  barge  and  gig  off 
the  Island  of  Gilolo,  as  was  proved  by  the  capture  of 
their  shields  which  are  narrow,  bent  in  the  form  of  an 
arc,  made  of  hard  black  wood,  inlaid  with  bits  of  shell 
and  mother  of  pearl,  and  provided  with  a  single  handle, 


CONTINUED.  377 

placed  in  the  centre,  by  which  it  is  held;  while  the  Illanon 
shield  is  very  large  and  wide,  and  of  an  entirely  different 
construction.  The  Malukus  speak  the  Tarnata,  the  lan- 
guage of  the  Moluccas,  the  name  of  which  is  evidently 
derived  from  Ternate.  Once  free  and  formidable  as 
pirates,  these  natives  in  times  past  must  have  offered  a 
curious  example  of  a  paradise  peopled  by  devils ;  of  a 
group  of  islands  probably  the  most  delicious  in  the 
world,  with  a  soil  the  most  fecund,  abounding  in  spices 
and  other  commodities  of  enormous  commercial  value ; 
enjoying  a  climate  at  once  healthful  and  undisturbed  by 
hurricanes  or  violent  alternations  of  temperature ;  but, 
alas  !  inhabited  by  a  set  of  fierce,  vindictive,  blood-thirsty 
savages,  whose  only  delight  was  in  rapine  and  murder. 
They  are  now  fortunately  almost  deprived  of  the  power 
to  injure,  are  reduced  to  a  state  of  servile  vassalage,  and 
even  their  Rajahs  are  but  regal  slaves,  whose  pomp  and 
state  are  maintained  by  the  dollars  of  the  Dutch. 

Mr.  Brooke  in  his  Journal  gives  a  short  account  of  the 
war-dance  of  the  Malukus,  which  he  witnessed  at  Sarawak. 
He  observes  that  it  is  of  a  more  gentle  nature  ^than  that 
of  the  Illafions  of  Mindanao,  and  that  instead  of  the 
sword  or  "  kempilan,"  they  prefer  the  spear,  advancing 
with  it  stealthily,  casting  it,  and  then  retreating  with  the 
sword  and  shield.  The  dancers  mad  with  rage  and 
opium,  whom  we  observed  stamping,  turning,  and  yelling 
on  the  fighting-deck  of  the  pirate  prahus,  during  our 
engagement,  were  most  probably  Illation-  "  Datus,"  or 
"  free  men,"  commanding  the  expedition.  Mr.  Brooke 
states  that  the  sword  of  the  Malukus  of  Gilolo  is  similar 
to  that  of  the  Moskokos  of  Boni  Bay,  in  Celebes. 


378  SPIDERS 

At  the  Island  of  Ternate,  I  made  a  capture  of  a  large 
and  splendid  undescribed  species  of  Nephila,  which  spins 
a  very  wide,  strong  web  among  the  bamboos.  The  body 
is  liver-coloured,  with  a  silver  horse-shoe  mark ;  the  thorax 
is  covered  with  a  downy,  hoary  pubescence ;  the  shanks 
of  the  tibiae  of  the  two  first  pairs  of  legs,  have  a  broad 
yellowish- white  band ;  the  other  legs  are  black.  Besides 
this,  I  have  drawings  of  numbers  of  species  not  yet  des- 
cribed, as  I  always  took  an  interest  in  these  remarkable 
insects.  Spiders  are  among  the  most  artful  of  living 
creatures;  their  whole  life  consists  of  one  unvaried  course 
of  craft  and  stratagem ;  whether  they  sneak  about  on  the 
surface  of  leaves,  as  green  as  their  own  emerald  bodies, 
and  surprise  the  poor  flies  that  venture  to  approach 
within  the  range  of  their  fatal  spring;  whether  they 
gloomily  lurk  in  dusky  holes,  or  under  the  shade  of  dingy 
tents,  and  spring  upon  unwary  insects  that  chance  to 
pass  their  door;  whether  they  lie  supine  in  the  broad 
daylight,  motionless,  in  their  wide-spread  treacherous 
toils,  and  having  seen  their  victim  fairly  entangled,  wrap 
him  up  in  a  winding-sheet  of  their  own  manufacture ;  or 
whether,  simulating  the  surface  of  the  ground  on  which 
they  live,  they  course  their  prey  with  untiring  assiduity, 
and,  having  run  it  down,  suck  its  blood  with  tiger-like 
ferocity.  In  the  Island  of  Panagatan,  I  made  a  capture 
of  another  species  of  Nephila,  which  I  also  consider  as 
undescribed.  The  head  is  blackish ;  thorax  silvery,  with 
black  spots,  and  covered  with  a  downy  pubescence ;  legs 
chesnut-red,  with  the  last  joints  black.  The  body  is  of  a 
light  emerald  green,  with  numerous  bright  yellow  spots. 
The  under-surface  is  dull  black.  It  forms  a  large,  strong, 


CONTINUED.  379 

geometrical  web,  spreading  from  bush  to  bush,  in  the 
centre  of  which  it  remains  motionless,  with  legs  stretched 
out,  and  the  head  downwards.  In  a  beautiful  wood 
behind  Calderas,  in  Mindanao,  I  observed  a  dingy 
little  species  of  Spider,  of  the  genus  Clubiona,  concealing 
itself  in  very  snug  retreats,  formed  out  of  a  dead  leaf, 
rolled  round  in  the  shape  of  a  cylinder,  lined  with  a  soft 
silken  tissue,  and  closed  at  one  end  by  means  of  a  strong, 
woven  felt  door.  When  hunted,  it  was  amusing  to  see 
the  frightened  little  creatures  run  for  protection  into  their 
tiny  castles,  where  they  would  doubtless  be  safe  from  the 
attacks  of  birds,  owing  to  the  leaves  not  being  distin- 
guishable from  others  that  strew  the  ground. 


380 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SINGAPORE  AND  BORNEO. 

Singapore — The  Sensitive  Plant — The  Nutmeg  Tree — Gutta  Percha — 
Trees  yielding  Caoutchouc — Jatropha  Manihot — Gambier — Useful 
Plants — Lizards  and  other  Animals — An  Opium-smoker — Effects 
of  Opium  on  the  brain — Royal  Children — Curious  mode  of  catching 
Snakes — The  Sun-birds — A  Tree  Slug — Cerithia — Dragon-flies — 
Nondescript  Spider — Remarkable  Caterpillar — The  Horse-shoe 
Crab — A  Land  Lobster — Borneo — Excursion  up  the  Linga — 
Scenery — Insects — The  Long-nosed  Monkey — Village  of  Bunting 
— The  Balows — Dried  Human  Heads  —  Diseases  —  Excursion  to 
Tungong — Native  Boar-hunt — Singular  Fish — Crabs  and  Shells 
— Land-Crabs — Habits  of  Crustaceans. 

ON  the  28th  of  June,  1844,  we  were  again  at  Singapore, 
or,  as  the  Malays  term  it,  Singhapura,  where  we  remained 
sufficiently  long  for  us  to  examine  some  of  the  numerous 
objects  of  interest  peculiar  to  this  important  little  island. 
Rambles,  in  any  direction,  always  well  repay  the  naturalist; 
and  a  walk,  even  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town, 
is  very  agreeable.  In  some  parts  you  will  find  the  ground 
covered  with  the  Sensitive  plant  (Mimosa  pudica),  and, 
as  you  walk  along,  you  leave  a  quivering  track  behind 
you,  caused  by  the  shrinking  of  a  thousand  leaflets, 
making  you  almost  believe,  with  Darwin  and  Dutrochet, 


THE  NUTMEG  TREE.  381 

that  plants  indeed  have  feeling ;  and  tempting  you  to  ex- 
claim with  the  poet  Wordsworth, 

"  It  is  my  faith  that  every  flower 
Enjoys  the  air  it  breathes." 

The  Nutmeg  tree  (Myristica  qfficinalis,  Linn.)  appears 
to  thrive  equally  as  well  in  this  island  as  at  Pulo  Penang; 
and  everywhere  around  you,  if  you  wander  a  little  to 
the  back  of  the  town,  you  will  perceive  plantations  of 
these  valuable  trees,  which,  disposed  in  clumps,  have  a 
very  pretty  appearance,  particularly  when  the  large  green 
fleshy  pear-shaped  fruits  have  burst,  and  the  crimson 
aril,  or  mace,  shows  ruddy  through  the  fissure  in  the 
rind.  The  bark  abounds  in  a  yellow  juice;  the  long 
shining  oval  leaves  are  powerfully  aromatic  when  bruised; 
and  the  inflorescence  consists  of  axillary  racemes  of 
small  green  flowers,  the  males  having  thick,  cup-shaped 
calices,  and  the  filaments  united  together,  and  the 
females  possessing  a  solitary  pistil,  with  a  very  short 
style.  The  oval  seeds,  or  nutmegs,  are  stripped,  like  ripe 
walnuts,  of  their  fleshy  valves ;  the  aril  or  mace  is  care- 
fully removed,  and  spread  on  mats  to  dry ;  and  the  nuts, 
with  their  hard  oval  shells,  are  placed  in  lofts,  under 
which  fires  are  kept  burning;  but  are  not  steeped  in  lime- 
water  for  the  purpose  of  protecting  them  from  insects,  as 
is  done  in  some  countries.  A  few  Clove  trees  (Caryo- 
phyttus  aromaticus,  Linn.)  seem  to  thrive  tolerably  well, 
but  they  have  not  been  very  extensively  introduced.  In 
an  excursion  into  the  woods  of  the  interior,  I  had  an 
opportunity  of  observing  the  tree  which  yields  the  material 
called  Gutta  Percha,  although  properly  speaking,  the  first 
word  should  be  written  "  Gatah,"  which  is  the  Malay 


382  GUTTA  PERCH A. 

name  for  any  gummy  exudation,  and  is  likewise  applied 
by  them  to'  the  Dammar  and  Gambier.  The  tree  (Ico- 
sandra  gutta  perchd)  belongs  to  the  Natural  Order 
Sapotacea,  and  has  lately  been  described  by  Sir  W.  J. 
Hooker.  It  is  a  large,  high  tree,  with  a  dense  crown  of 
rather  small  dark  green  leaves,  and  a  round  smooth 
trunk.  On  incising  the  bark  with  a  chopping-knife,  a 
quantity  of  rather  thin  white  milky  fluid  exudes,  which 
gradually  hardens  on  coming  in  contact  with  the  air,  in 
which  state  it  is  the  Gutta  Percha  of  commerce.  A  West 
Indian  tree  belonging  to  the  same  tribe,  Achras  Sapota, 
abounds  in  a  thick  white  tenacious  milk,  which  might 
possibly  be  applied  to  similar  purposes ;  and  another  Sapo- 
taceous  plant,  the  Bosnia  longifolia,  also  yields  a  milky 
sap,  which  is  used  on  the  continent  of  India  in  rheumatic 
affections.  The  sap  of  Icosandra  is  not  viscid  and  tena- 
cious like  that  of  the  Ficus  elastica,  which  is  common  in 
Borneo,  and  of  the  other  trees  which  yield  a  similar  sub- 
stance, as  the  Urceola  elastica,  which  grows  at  Penan  g, 
and  affords  an  excellent  kind  of  caoutchouc,  and  that 
other  climbing  plant,  Willowgkbeia  edulis,  which  is  found 
in  the  same  island,  but  produces  a  very  indifferent  sort. 
The  advantage  the  Gutta  Percha  seems  to  have  over  the 
other  descriptions  of  caoutchouc,  appears  to  consist  in  its 
great  tenacity,  and  in  its  retaining  its  form  and  solidity, 
even  in  the  tropics ;  but  on  the  other  hand,  it  wants 
elasticity.  It  is  easily  moulded  into  any  form,  by 
steeping  it  in  hot  water,  and  forms  very  good  catheters, 
bougies,  soles  of  shoes,  riding- whips,  gas  pipes,  ornaments 
for  picture-frames,  &c.  Several  other  plants  yield  sap 
with  similar  useful  properties,  as  the  Hevea  Guianensis, 


TREES  YIELDING  CAOUTCHOUC.  383 

which  produces  the  Dernerara  and  Surinam  caoutchouc, 
and  the  Bastard  Manchineel  tree  (Cameraria  latifolid), 
which  is  common  in  Cuba,  and  other  West  Indian 
Islands.  In  the  plantations  about  Singapore  you  will 
see  the  Jatropha  Manihot,  with  its  white,  brittle,  warty 
stems,  and  large,  deeply-divided,  heart-shaped  leaves ;  a 
plant  which  yields,  at  the  same  time,  a  dangerously 
poisonous  juice,  and  a  wholesome  fecula,  which,  in  South 
America,  forms  an  important  article  of  diet,  under  the 
name  of  Cassava ;  the  useful  Gomuti  Palm,  and  graceful 
Plantain,  the  elegant,  feathery  Bamboo,  the  Betel,  and 
the  climbing  Yam,  mingled  with  Papayas,  Citron,  and 
Lime  trees,  and  various  useful  Scitamineous  plants,  as  the 
Turmeric  and  the  Ginger,  may  be  also  mentioned ;  nor 
must  that  very  important  Cinchonaceous  plant,  the 
Uncaria  Gambir,  which  yields  the  substance  named  Terra 
Japonica,  a  kind  of  Catechu,  be  omitted ;  the  extract 
being  most  extensively  employed  by  the  Malays,  mixed 
with  Betel  leaf,  Areca  nut,  and  Lime,  as  a  masticatory. 
At  Singapore,  the  Malay  fishermen  make  a  very  strong 
cordage  out  of  the  leaves  of  the  Pandanus  laems ;  and 
here,  as  elsewhere,  among  the  Eastern  Islands,  the  leaves 
of  the  Nipa  fruticans  are  universally  used  for  thatching 
their  primitive  and  fragile  dwellings.  The  island,  more- 
over, abounds  in  Pine  Apples  of  several  varieties,  the 
common  sort,  in  my  opinion,  being  the  best  flavoured ; 
the  long,  red,  conical  ones  being  the  next  in  esteem ;  and 
those  with  variegated  leaves  being  the  worst  of  all. 

Among  the  dry,  withered  leaves  that  strew  the  ground, 
hundreds  of  large,  brown,  shining  Lizards  rush  about 
with  the  greatest  velocity,  reminding  the  timid  of  the 


384  AN  OPIUM-SMOKER. 

rustling  of  serpents  beneath  their  feet ;  and,  in  the  trees, 
the  flying  Squirrel  (Pteromys  Petauristd)  or,  by  a  rarer 
chance,  the  beautiful  Galeopitkecus  variegatus  may  be 
seen  towards  the  evening,  besides  the  pretty  little  active 
Tupaia  Tana,  and  Squirrels  and  Monkeys  of  one  or  two 
descriptions.  Many  rare  animals  may  occasionally  be 
observed  confined  in  the  menagerie  of  the  Governor,  and 
other  places ;  I  have  seen  the  black  variety  of  the  Leopard, 
the  Orang-Utan,  and  Wou-Wou,  the  Argus  Pheasant, 
Black  Cockatoo,  and  several  large  Pythons,  exhibited  in 
this  manner  ;  the  Dugong  has  been  caught  off  the  island, 
and  I  have  seen  the  Sword-fish  in  the  boats  of  the  fisher- 
men, who  also  bring  off  for  sale  numbers  of  '  Neptune's 
Cups,5  a  species  of  Alcyonum,  and  vast  quantities  of  Corals 
and  shells ;  among  the  latter,  Aspergilla,  Fistulance,  Car- 
dissae,  Lithodomi,  and  Gastrocliante  are  very  numerous. 

In  a  certain  large  Caravansary,  belonging  to  the 
Malay  village  near  Singapore,  a  place  where  Buffaloes 
and  Goats  occupy  the  centre,  and  where  pallets  are 
arranged  around  for  its  human  occupants,  I  had  a  good 
opportunity  of  observing  the  effects  of  Opium  on  the 
physical  aspect  of  the  Malay.  I  was  particularly  struck 
with  one  old  confirmed  Opium-smoker,  with  whom  I 
enjoyed  a  "  hubble-bubble."  He  was  a  feeble  worn-out 
old  man,  with  an  unearthly  brilliancy  in  his  eye.  His 
body  was  bent  forwards,  and  greatly  emaciated  ;  his  face 
was  shrunken,  wan,  and  haggard ;  his  long  skinny  arm, 
wasted  fingers,  and  sharp-pointed  nails,  resembled  more 
the  claw  of  some  rapacious  bird,  than  the  hand  of  a  lord 
of  creation ;  his  head  was  nodding  and  tremulous,  his 
skin  wrinkled  and  yellow,  and  his  teeth  were  a  few  de- 


EFFECTS  OF  OPIUM.  385 

cayed,  pointed,  and  black-stained  fangs.  As  I  approached 
him  he  raised  his  body  from  the  mat  on  which  he  was 
reposing,  and  filling  an  antiquated  pipe  with  tobacco, 
courteously  presented  it  for  my  acceptance.  There  was 
something  interesting,  and,  at  the  same  time,  melancholy, 
in  the  physique  of  this  old  man,  who,  now  in  rags,  ap- 
peared from  the  silver  ornaments  he  wore,  and  by  his 
embroidered  jacket,  to  have  been  formerly  a  person  of 
some  consideration ;  but  the  fascinating  influence  of  the 
deadly  drug  had  fastened  on  him,  and  a  pallet  in  a  Cara- 
vansary was  the  reward  of  self-indulgence.  In  my  expe- 
rience of  Opium,  which  has  not,  however,  been  very 
extensive,  I  cannot  say  I  found  as  much  pleasure  as 
De  Quincy,  the  "  English  Opium  Eater,"  in  his  '  Con- 
fessions,' would  lead  us  to  believe  fell  to  his  lot.  After 
three  or  four  Chinese  Opium-pipes,  I  found  my  brain 
very  much  unsettled,  and  teeming  with  thoughts,  ill- 
arranged,  and  pursuing  each  other  in  wanton  dreamy 
play,  without  order  or  connexion ;  the  circulating  system 
being,  at  the  same  time,  much  excited,  the  frame  tremu- 
lous, the  eye-balls  fixed,  and  a  peculiar  and  agreeable 
thrilling  sensation  extending  along  the  nerves.  The  same 
succession  of  image  crowding  upon  image,  and  thoughts 
revelling  in  strange  disorder,  continues  for  some  time, 
during  which  a  person  appears  to  be  in  the  condition  of 
the  madman  alluded  to  by  Dryden,  in  his  play  of  the 
'  Spanish  Friar :'  — 

"  He  raves,  his  words  are  loose 
As  heaps  of  sand,  and  scattering  wide  from  sense : 
So  high  he's  mounted  on  his  airy  throne, 
That  now  the  wind  has  got  into  his  head, 
And  turned  his  brains  to  frenzy." 

VOL.  II.  2    C 


386  THE  RAJAH'S  CHILDREN. 

Unutterable  melancholy  feelings  succeed  to  this  some- 
what pleasurable  period  of  excitement,  but  a  soft  languor 
steals  shortly  across  the  senses,  and  the  half-poisoned 
individual  falls  asleep.  The  next  day  there  is  great  nausea 
and  sickness  of  stomach,  headache,  and  tormenting 
thirst,  which  makes  you  curse  Opium,  and  exclaim  with 
Shakespeare's  King  John  : — 

"  And  none  of  you  will  bid  the  winter  come 
To  thrust  his  icy  fingers  in  my  maw  : 
Nor  let  my  kingdom's  rivers  take  their  course 
Thro'  my  burnt  bosom ;  nor  intreat  the  North 
To  make  his  bleak  winds  kiss  my  parched  lips, 
And  comfort  me  with  cold." 

At  the  residence  of  the  Ex-Rajah  of  Singapore,  I  was 
introduced  to  a  young  Prince  and  Princess,  children,  as 
as  I  was  informed,  of  the  Rajah,  and  likewise  to  their 
mother.  These  scions  of  departed  royalty  were  perfectly 
naked,  and  adorned  with  silver  ornaments;  the  boy 
wearing  an  amulet  about  his  neck,  and  rings  on  his  arms 
and  legs ;  and  the  girl  having  an  ornamented  silver  heart- 
shaped  fig-leaf  depending  in  front,  and  attached  by  a 
silver  chain  around  the  hips.  They  were  both  very 
pretty  children,  and  good-tempered ;  but  I  observed  that 
young  as  he  was,  perhaps  not  more  than  five  years  old, 
this  small  brown  prince  had  commenced  the  habit  of 
chewing  the  betel-nut  and  sirih  leaf;  for  his  lips  and  teeth 
were  already  stained  with  the  universal  masticatory. 

In  an  excursion  with  Sir  Edward  Belcher  and  Dr.  Oxley 
into  the  interior  of  the  island,  for  the  purpose  of  collecting 
some  of  the  numerous  and  beautiful  epiphytic  Orchids 
that  abound  in  the  forest,  I  noticed  a  very  novel  and 


METHOD  OF  CATCHING  SNAKES.  387 

ingenious  method  of  capturing  snakes.  A  small,  but 
highly-venomous  reptile  of  this  description,  of  a  bright 
green  colour,  having  a  row  of  white  spots  along  the 
sides,  and  with  the  triangular  head,  and  enormous  fangs, 
which  characterize  the  genus  Trigano  cephalm,  was  de- 
tected by  Sir  Edward  peeping  from  among  the  tangled 
leaves  of  a  bunch  of  Epidendra,  which  he  was  about  to 
gather.  On  pointing  it  out  to  our  Malay  attendants, 
one  of  them  immediately  procured  a  long  tapering  twig, 
and  formed  a  running  noose  out  of  a  fine  grass,  which 
being  fashioned  according  to  his  satisfaction,  he  passed 
it  over  the  extended  head  of  the  reptile,  drew  the  knot 
tight,  and  thus  secured  the  prize,  which  I  immediately 
seized  between  the  finger  and  thumb,  and  divided  the 
spinal  cord  with  the  point  of  a  pen-knife ;  for  the  natives, 
if  they  could  have  had  their  way,  would  have  crushed  the 
head,  and  so  ruined  the  specimen, 

At  Singapore  I  first  had  the  pleasure  of  observing 
those  tiny  paragons  of  the  East,  the  Sun-birds  (Cinnyris), 
which,  like  their  brilliant  representatives  of  the  West,  are 
etherial,  gay,  and  sprightly  in  their  motions,  flitting 
briskly  from  flower  to  flower,  and  assuming  a  thousand 
lively  and  agreeable  attitudes.  As  the  sunbeams  glitter 
on  their  bodies,  they  sparkle  like  so  many  precious 
stones,  and  exhibit,  as  they  turn,  a  variety  of  bright  and 
iridescent  hues,  "like  atoms  of  the  rainbow  fluttering 
round,"  as  a  poet  has  described  them.  As  they  hover 
round  the  honey-laden  blossoms,  they  vibrate  rapidly 
their  tiny  pinions,  producing  in  the  air,  a  slight  whirring 
sound,  but  not  so  loud  as  the  humming  noise  produced 

2c  2 


388  THE  SUN-BIRDS. 

by  the  wings  of  the  Trochilidee.  Occasionally,  I  have 
seen  them  clinging  by  their  feet  and  tail,  busily  engaged 
in  rifling,  of  their  insects  and  nectar,  the  blossoms  of  the 
trees  ;  in  the  stomachs  of  many  which  I  examined,  were 
the  partially-digested  remains  of  dipterous,  coleopterous, 
and  tetrapterous  insects.  These  lovely  and  active  little 
ornaments  of  the  feathered  tribe  serve,  by  the  rapidity  of 
their  movements,  and  the  brilliancy  of  their  colours, 
materially  to  enliven  the  monotony  of  a  noon-day  walk. 
I  well  remember  a  certain  dark-leaved  tree  with  scarlet, 
tubular  flowers,  that  especially  courted  the  attention  of 
the  Sun-birds,  and  around  its  blossoms  they  continually 
darted  with  eager  and  vivacious  movements.  In  the 
course  of  an  hour's  watching,  I  have  counted  more  than 
a  dozen  different  species  of  Cinnyris,  Nectarinea,  and 
Certhia,  coming  and  going  to  and  from  this  honied 
banquet.  The  Sun-birds  seemed  particularly  delighted, 
clinging  to  the  slender  twigs,  and  coquetting  with  the 
flowers,  thrusting  in  their  slender  beaks,  and  probing  with 
their  brush-like  tongues,  for  insects  and  nectar,  hanging 
suspended  by  their  feet,  throwing  back  their  little  glossy 
heads,  chasing  each  other  on  giddy  wing,  and  flirting  and 
twittering,  the  gayest  of  the  gay.  Some  were  emerald 
green,  some  vivid  violet,  and  others  yellow  with  a 
crimson  wing.  In  the  vicinity  of  this  tree,  which  was  in 
the  town,  were  numbers  of  Sparrows,  in  their  every-day 
dress,  apparently  engaged  in  disdainfully  contemplating 
these  gaudy-coloured  birds  of  pleasure.  Darwin's  capital 
description  of  the  Humming-bird  applies  also  to  the 
Cinnyrides  : — 


A  TREE-SLUG.  380 

"  So  where  the  Humming-bird  in  Chili's  bowers, 
On  murmuring  pinions,  robs  the  pendent  flowers ; 
Seeks  where  fine  pores  their  dulcet  balm  distil, 
And  sucks  the  treasure  with  proboscis-bill."* 

Among  molluscous  animals,  the  Onckidium  of  Singa- 
pore offers  a  curious  instance  of  what  may  be  termed  an 
Arboreal  Slug.  It  is  a  limaciform  animal,  which  is  found 
crawling  among  the  foliage  of  the  trees  in  the  woods, 
and  appearing  more  particularly  after  heavy  showers. 
During  the  heat  of  the  day  it  collapses  its  broad,  flattened 
body,  and  retires  under  the  shade  of  large  leaves,  where 
it  remains  apparently  in  a  half-torpid  condition.  It 
leaves  no  slimy  trail  behind,  when  it  crawls,  as  the 
Limax  and  Snail  do.  It  is  of  a  chesnut-brown  colour, 
minutely  tuberculated,  with  numerous  small,  dark,  scat- 
tered spots,  and  with  the  raised  middle  line  of  a  pale 
brown ;  the  eyes  are  terminal  on  the  long  superior  pair 
of  tentacles. 

Another  remarkable  molluscous  form  is  the  Ccrithium 
truncatum,  which  is  found  generally  in  brackish  water 
in  Mangrove  swamps,  and  the  mouths  of  rivers.  Some 
times  it  crawls  on  the  stones  and  leaves  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, and  sometimes  it  is  found  suspended  by  glu- 
tinous threads  to  the  boughs  of  trees,  and  from  the  roots 
of  the  Mangroves.  The  animal  of  Megalamastoma  sus- 
pensum  has  been  found  in  the  West  Indies,  by  the  Rev. 
Lansdowne  Guilding,  hanging  from  trees  in  the  same 
manner;  and  Mr.  Gray  states  that  he  has  found  the  Rissoa 
similarly  suspended.  There  is  another  very  handsome 
species,  closely  allied  to  the  preceding,  which  I  have  fre- 
quently found  crawling  in  a  slow  and  languid  manner  on 

*  Botanic  Garden. 


390  DRAGON-FLIES. 

the  leaves  of  the  Pontedera,  and  of  Calami  and  Sedges, 
found  among  the  fluviatile  marshes,  and  on  the  low 
banks  of  rivers  in  several  parts  of  Borneo,  even  many 
miles  in  the  interior,  where  the  water  is  perfectly  fresh. 
In  this  species,  the  eyes  are  likewise  terminal ;  the  pro- 
boscis is  elegantly  marked  with  crimson  and  yellow  ; 
there  is  a  vivid  scarlet  edge  extending  round  the  lower 
part  of  the  body,  where  it  joins  the  foot ;  the  under  sur- 
face of  which  latter  part  is  of  a  dark  brown.  They  live, 
in  general,  quite  out  of  the  water,  and  have  a  very  pretty 
appearance  when  seen  crawling  among  the  leaves. 

In  the  insect  world  nothing  surprised  me  more  than 
the  large  number  of  Libelulte,  and  analogous  forms  of 
Neuroptera.  Dragon-flies,  however,  are  not  only  nu- 
merous here,  but  in  China,  and  among  all  the  islands  of 
the  Eastern  seas.  On  every  barren  bank,  on  every 
flowery  plain,  over  oozy  bogs  and  stagnant  pools,  may 
be  seen  all  day  long,  flitting  on  their  untiring  wings  of 
gauze,  these  beautiful  creatures,  or  as  Shakespeare  would 
term  them : — 

"  Those  gay  creatures  of  the  element, 
That  in  the  colours  of  the  rainbow  live, 
And  play  i'  the  plighted  clouds." 

Volatile  and  erratic,  their  chief  resort  is  about  some  dull, 
sequestered  pool,  where  rank  weeds  luxuriate,  and  where, 
springing  from  the  mud  and  slime,  the  air  teems  with 
living  forms.  These  are  the  food  of  the  Dragon-fly,  and 
in  their  pursuit  and  capture  consist  his  pastime  and 
delight.  I  have  frequently  regarded  with  astonishment 
the  dexterity  of  the  little  Dyak  boys,  who  catch  these 
sprightly  Neuroptera  by  means  of  a  noose  formed  of 


CURIOUS  INSECTS.  391 

human  hair,  and  fastened  to  the  end  of  a  long,  slender 
stick.  They  will  lassoo  adroitly  their  tiny  game,  and 
bring  them  to  you  with  the  hair  neatly  secured  around 
the  insect's  neck,  which  does  not  prevent  it  from  flut- 
tering about,  to  the  great  delight  of  its  captor ;  for  boys 
are  cruel,  even  in  a  state  of  nature. 

In  the  woods  of  Singapore  I  made  captive  a  very  large 
and  handsome  species  of  Nephila,  which  I  do  not  find 
described.  The  thorax  is  covered  with  a  rich  golden 
pubescence  ;  the  terminal  half  of  the  palpi  are  deep  black, 
the  proximate  half  red  above,  and  yellow  beneath ;  the 
chelicera  are  large  and  shining  black ;  the  abdomen  has 
a  black  band  at  the  anterior  part,  and  posteriorly,  and  on 
the  sides  large  bright  patches  of  yellow ;  the  cephalo- 
thorax,  where  not  hid  by  the  silky  hairs,  is  dark  green, 
with  yellow  striae ;  the  legs  are  black,  with  bright  yellow 
rings  at  the  joints,  and  the  thighs,  on  the  under  surface, 
are  bright  yellow,  and  the  eyes  are  black  and  shining. 
It  forms  a  large,  geometrical  web,  extended  vertically  be- 
tween low  bushes.  Another  remarkable  insect  was  seen 
feeding  on  the  bark  of  a  tree,  and  appeared  to  me  to 
resemble,  more  than  anything  else,  the  larva  of  one  of 
the  Geometridte,  which,  being  destined  to  live  on  a  rough, 
green  bark,  and  not  among  twigs  and  slender  stems,  in- 
stead of  the  usual  brown  colour,  was  of  a  bright  green, 
with  the  segments  of  the  body  dilated  laterally,  giving 
it  somewhat  the  appearance  of  a  number  of  fronds  of 
the  Lemna,  or  Duck-weed,  strung  together.  When  this 
strange-looking  caterpillar  crawled,  it  hooped  its  body  in 
the  manner  peculiar  to  the  members  of  the  Geometrida 
family. 


392  HABITS  OF  THE  HORSE-SHOE  CRAB. 

Near  Point  Romania,  on  the  Peninsula  of  Malacca, 
among  several  other  curiosities  of  nature,  I  observed 
numbers  of  the  Limulus  Moluccamts,  or  Horse-shoe  Crab. 
It  progresses  in  a  very  awkward  manner,  beginning  its 
onward  movement  by  raising  its  enormons  cephalo-thorax, 
or  carapace,  several  degrees  from  the  ground,  by  extend- 
ing the  joints  of  its  legs,  and  standing  on  its  toes  or 
ungual  joints,  which  operation  is,  however,  entirely  con- 
cealed from  common  observation ;  thus  reminding  one  of 
the  manceuvering  operations  of  the  ancient  Testudo,  a 
sort  of  machine  employed  by  the  Romans  in  besieging 
cities,  under  the  roof  of  which  the  soldiers  worked  when 
undermining  the  walls.  When  the  anterior  part  of  the 
shell,  or  carapace,  is  sufficiently  elevated,  the  whole 
weight  of  the  animal  is  thrown  forwards,  the  shell  is 
then  again  raised,  and  the  operation  repeated.  It  carries 
its  spiniform  tail  and  flattened  abdomen  trailing  on  the 
the  ground ;  but  when  irritated,  it  raises  the  latter  at  an 
obtuse  angle  with  the  body,  while  the  tail  is  elevated  per- 
pendicularly in  the  air,  and  moved  from  side  to  side  in  a 
threatening  manner,  When  alive,  the  animal  is  of  a  dull, 
greyish,  leaden  colour,  and  dirty  brown  on  the  abdominal 
surface.  I  have  sometimes  been  amused  in  putting  to 
flight  a  whole  army  of  little  Limuli,  just  after  their 
emergence  from  the  ova.  Their  raised  and  threatening 
tails,  angry  menaces,  and  uncouth  efforts  to  escape,  are 
truly  ludicrous.  These  young  fry  are  frequently  met 
with  among  the  shallow  bays  of  the  islands  in  the  'China 
Sea,  and  I  have  found  those  of  another  species,  (Limulus 
longispinaj  at  Leegeetan,  on  the  coast  of  Borneo.  Among 
the  Japanese,  the  Limulus  is  employed  to  indicate  the 


SCENERY  OF  THE  LINQA.  393 

Zodiacal  constellation  of  Cancer ;  in  China  the  L.  hete- 
rodactylus  is  esteemed  choice  eating ;  and  I  have  seen 
the  Malays  use  the  carapace  as  a  drinking  cup,  at  the 
springs,  the  long  straight  tail  forming  a  capital  handle. 

The  Thalassina  scorpionoides  is  common  both  at  Singa- 
pore and  Borneo ;  living  in  vertical,  cylindrical  holes  in 
the  ground,  in  marshy  places,  and  on  the  banks  of  rivers. 
During  wet  weather,  and  particularly  after  heavy  rains, 
it  issues  from  its  habitaculum  and  comes  to  the  surface. 
In  its  movements  it  is  slow  and  feeble,  and  when  taken, 
is,  apparently,  defenceless,  not  making  use  of  its  chelae  as 
organs  of  aggression.  In  some  parts  of  India  it  is  said 
to  spoil  the  roads,  and  do  considerable  damage  to  the 
plantations.  It  is  exceedingly  tenacious  of  life,  one  in  my 
possession  existing  upwards  of  an  hour  in  proof  spirits. 

On  our  return  to  Sarawak,  in  July,  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  accompanying  a  boat  expedition  up  the  Linga,  for 
the  purpose  of  capturing,  if  possible,  the  noted  Arab 
pirate,  Sheriff  Sahib.  On  our  passage  up  this  river,  the 
scenery  was  very  splendid,  and,  as  in  many  parts,  we 
grazed  the  bushes,  I  had  excellent  opportunities  of 
gathering  epiphytes,  and  observing  the  different  insects 
that  fluttered  around  us.  The  spectral-looking  Phasma, 
like  some  withered  stick,  moved  slowly  and  deliberately 
among  the  branches ;  while  his  more  lively  congeners, 
the  pink-winged  Empusa,  and  emerald-green  Mantis,  as 
closely  simulated  the  foliage  of  the  trees  on  which  they 
hung,  ever  greedy  for  prey  and  rapine.  It  is  very 
amusing  to  watch  a  large-sized  Mantis  saw  off  the  head 
of  some  dipterous  insect  that  has  just  become  its  prey : 
he  does  it  in  such  a  surgical  and  business-like  manner ! 


394  NATIVB  RESOURCES. 

Numerous  Grylli  and  nimble-limbed  Locusta,  of  large 
dimensions  and  of  splendid  colours,  spread  their  gauze- 
like  wings,  and  flew,  with  whirring  noise,  from  spray  to 
spray.  Hosts  of  merry,  never-wearied  Cicadas.,  flitting 
about  on  their  silvery  membranous  elytra,  and  sitting  on 
the  twigs  among  the  leaves,  raised  their  shrilly  voices 
above,  below,  and  around : — 

"  Hino  querulas  referunt  voces,  quis  nantia  limo 
Corpora  lympha  fovet ;  sonitus  alit  aeris  echo, 
Argutis  et  cuncta  fremunt  arbusta  cicadis"  * 

Large  Lepidoptera,  with  flapping  wings,  rose  and  sunk 
amid  the  vistas  of  the  wood,  with  that  lazy  way  these 
gorgeous  creatures  always  have  in  tropical  forests,  sailing 
slowly  across  the  open  spaces,  and  gradually  disappearing 
like  lovely  visions,  amid  the  leafy  labyrinths. 

We  came  at  length  to  the  last  bivouac  of  the  fugitive 
Sheriff,  at  a  point  of  the  river  where  the  banks  were 
under  water,  and  where  there  was  an  open  space, 
bounded  by  enormous  forest  trees,  whose  quaint  and 
knotted  roots  appeared  above  the  swamp,  in  the  form  of 
brown  and  wrinkled  twisted  serpents,  arches  full  of  ex- 
traordinary contortions,  and  other  strange  forms  usually 
assumed  by  the  roots  of  the  Rhizophora  Gymnorhiza  and 
similar  trees.  The  pursued  and  persecuted  remnant  of  the 
enemy  had  chosen  this  miserable  spot  for  its  last  resting- 
place,  having  with  native  ingenuity  thrown  trees  from 
root  to  root,  several  feet  from  the  surface  of  the  water, 
with  cross  pieces  of  bamboo,  secured  with  rattans  and 
strips  of  pliant  bark,  and  on  these  rude  and  slender  plat- 
forms had  erected  huts  of  branches.  Here  they  had 

*  Virgil,  Culcx.  1.  150. 


THE  LONG-NOSED  MONKEY.  395 

lighted  their  fires,  and  squatted  for  the  night  among  the 
creatures  of  the  swamp. 

During  our  ascent  of  this  river,  I  had  numerous  op- 
portunities of  observing  the  habits  of  the  Kahau,  or 
Proboscis  Monkey,  in  his  native  woods ;  for  in  the  forests 
of  this  part  of  Borneo,  he  forms  a  veiy  conspicuous  feature, 
and  occurs  in  great  numbers ;  and  although  the  Semno- 
pithecus  nasicus,  or  Nasalis  larvatus,  is  tolerably  well 
known,  yet  I  am  inclined  to  make  a  few  observations  on 
its  history,  from  having  had  so  many  opportunities  of 
examining  it  in  a  state  of  nature.  The  best  account  of 
the  animal  I  have  seen,  is  in  an  excellent  work  called  the 
'  Menageries.' 

In  their  native  woods  these  Semnopitheci  are  not  so 
agile  as  many  of  their  quadrumanous  consimilars,  but 
climb  and  walk  in  a  more  deliberate  manner.  Their 
physiognomy  is  of  a  melancholy  aspect,  to  which  the  pro- 
minent nasal  organ  lends  a  somewhat  ludicrous  expres- 
sion. When  excited  and  angry,  the  female  resembles 
some  tanned  and  peevish  hag,  snarling  and  shrewish. 
They  progress  on  all  fours,  and  sometimes  while  on 
the  ground,  raise  themselves  upright  and  look  about 
them.  When  they  sleep,  they  squat  like  the  Dyaks  on 
their  hams,  and  bow  their  heads  upon  the  breast.  When 
disturbed,  they  utter  a  short  impatient  cry,  between  a 
sneeze  and  a  scream,  like  that  of  a  spoilt  and  passionate 
child ;  and  in  the  selection  of  their  food,  they  appear  very 
dainty,  frequently  destroying  a  fruit,  and  hardly  tasting 
it.  When  they  emit  their  peculiar  wheezing  or  hissing 
sound,  they  avert  and  wrinkle  the  nose,  and  open  the 
mouth  wide. 


396  THE  LONG-NOSED  MONKEY. 

In  the  male,  the  nose  is  a  curved  tubular  trunk,  large, 
pendulous,  and  fleshy ;  but  in  the  female,  it  is  smaller, 
recurved,  and  not  caruncular.  In  the  latter,  moreover, 
the  organ  is  grooved  in  the  middle  line,  and  ends  in  a 
sharp  point,  from  which  it  slopes  abruptly  to  the  upper 
lip,  forming  a  truncate  surface,  in  which  are  placed  the 
nostrils.  The  eyes  are  small,  and  not  much  sunken ;  the 
pupil  is  large  and  circular,  and  the  iris  of  a  bright  yellow- 
ish brown.  The  following  description  of  the  colours  of  an 
adult  female  seems  to  differ  in  some  particulars  from  that 
generally  given.  The  hair  on  the  frontal  region  was  of 
a  deep  chesnut  colour,  inclining  to  red ;  the  shoulders  and 
outer  part  of  the  upper  arm  red ;  inner  part  dirty  white ; 
throat  breast  and  belly  white ;  hair  long,  soft  and  silky ; 
fore-arms,  legs,  and  inner  surface  of  thighs  dirty  grey,  in 
some  parts  inclining  to  silvery ;  hairs  on  the  back  thick 
and  soft,  and  resembling  in  colour  the  fur  of  an  old  hare ; 
on  the  sides,  loins,  and  outsides  of  the  thighs,  it  inclines 
to  rufous ;  over  the  lumbar  region  is  a  triangular  grey 
patch,  and  the  tail  also  is  grey,  inclining  to  whitish 
towards  the  tip ;  the  naked  skin  of  the  face,  when  the 
animal  is  alive,  is  a  bright  red  brick-dust  colour,  but 
after  death,  is  a  pale  dirty  pink.  The  palms  are  black. 
Wormb  says  its  cry  resembles  "  Kahau,"  which  name  it 
very  frequently  goes  by.  They  do  not,  however,  hold  their 
nose  when  they  leap,  nor  do  they  seem  to  be  particularly 
gregarious. 

On  our  return  from  this  pirate  hunt,  we  visited  the 
village  of  Bunting,  and  walked  about  admiring  the 
native  ingenuity  of  the  Dyak  forges,  the  bellows  of  which 
are  formed  of  two  hollow  cylinders,  with  feather-suckers 


THE  BALOWS.  397 

to  the  pistons ;  observing  with  admiration  several  large 
and  handsome  War  prahus,  building  under  sheds,  of 
great  length,  and  having  elevated  and  highly-ornamented 
prows ;  and  more  especially  did  we  find  amusement  in 
examining  the  interiors  of  those  large  Caravansaries 
raised  on  poles,  where  the  Balows  live.  The  cabins 
allotted  to  the  married  couples,  are  garnished  with  fur- 
niture of  a  very  simple  and  primitive  description ;  a  rude 
bed-place  in  one  corner,  and  a  few  jars  for  holding  water 
in  another,  seemed  to  constitute  the  chief  essentials  for 
the  toilet  and  repose  of  the  Dyak.  These  Balow  dwel- 
lings, which  may  be  compared  to  enormous  bee-hives, 
have  places  under  the  kedjangs  of  the  corridor,  or  gallery, 
common  to  the  whole  swarm,  where  might  be  seen  fowls 
roosting  by  the  dozen;  various  implements  of  war; 
cooking  utensils ;  canoes  unlashed,  and  taken  to  pieces ; 
rush-woven  mats ;  looms  for  weaving  sarongs ;  huge 
baskets  of  rice  and  corn ;  and  last,  not  least,  among  this 
singular  "  omnium  gatherum,"  at  all  events  in  the  esti- 
mation of  the  owners,  numerous  smoked  and  dusty 
human  heads,  hanging  suspended  from  the  rafters,  and 
some  of  which  I  noticed  of  very  recent  capture.  An 
examination  of  their  teeth  and  cranial  peculiarities,  ap- 
prised me  that  one  among  them  was  the  trophy  of  a 
European  ;  several  were  Malayan,  and  by  far  the  greater 
number  Dyak,  with  their  black,  stained,  shark-like  teeth. 
Dalton,  alluding  to  the  propensity  these  people  have 
for  hoarding  up  the  heads  of  their  enemies,  says  that 
his  friend  Selgie,  a  Dyak  chief  of  Coti,  had  as  many  as 
one  hundred  and  fifty ;  and  one  of  his  sons,  only  twenty 
years  of  age,  was  possessed  of  nine. 


398  NATIVE  BOAR-HUNT. 

As  we  were  reposing  after  dinner,  in  our  boats,  a 
party  of  Balows  came  off  in  a  canoe  for  medical  advice. 
I  was  fortunate  in  being  able  to  give  relief  in  a  bad  case 
of  Entropion,  by  removing  a  transverse  flap  of  skin  and 
muscle  from  the  eyelid,  a  proceeding  which  seemed  to 
give  much  satisfaction  to  the  spectators;  and,  as  usual  in 
these  cases,  presents  of  fruits  and  fowls  were  forced  upon 
my  acceptance.  Among  these  unfortunates  was  a  man 
with  that  tubercular  form  of  Lepra,  called  Elephantiasis : 

"  corpore  adeso, 

Posterius,  tremulas  super  ulcera  tetra  tenentes 
Palmas,  horriferis  adcibat  vocibus  Orcum."  * 

Leaving  the  Batang  Lupar  on  the  4th  of  September,  we 
returned  to  Sarawak,  and  shortly  after,  ascended  the  river 
Lundu,  and  visited  the  town  or  campong  of  Tungong,  on 
that  river,  inhabited  by  the  friendly  Sibnowan  Dyaks,  one 
of  the  mildest  and  most  amiable  of  the  tribes  to  be  found 
in  the  Sarawak  territory.  Here  I  had  the  pleasure  of  ac- 
companying His  Excellency,  Rajah  Brooke,  the  Hon.  Capt. 
Kepple  of  the  Dido,  and  some  others,  in  an  excursion, 
when  a  party  of  Sibnowan  Dyaks  was  assembled  to  hunt 
the  Wild  Boar  in  native  fashion.  Headed  by  Kalong, 
eldest  son  of  Sejugah,  Orang  Kaya,  or  chief  of  the  village, 
we  proceeded  in  canoes  to  the  hunting-ground,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  acco'mpanied  by  some  numbers  of  a 
small,  fox-like  breed  of  dogs,  very  active,  bold  and  saga- 
cious ;  and  after  paddling  for  some  distance,  landed 
beneath  the  shade  of  the  dark-leaved  Casuarinas,  and 
other  forest  trees,  where  the  sand  was  marked  with  the 
foot-prints  of  hogs,  and  covered  with  the  tracks  of  deer. 
*  Lucretius,  De  Nat.  Rerura.  Lib.  v.  1.  993. 


WILD  BOARS.  399 

Each  Dyak  hunter  carries  a  stout  Nibong  spear,  with  a 
well-sharpened  iron  head,  and  when  the  eager  dogs  have 
sniffed  the  game,  and  pressed  into  the  tangled  jungle, 
fierce  in  the  ardour  of  pursuit,  the  Dyak  follows  up  the 
chase,  and  bursts  impetuously  through  the  brushwood. 
Meantime,  the  dogs  have  surrounded  the  frightened  boar, 
and  while  they  are  worrying  and  keeping  him  at  bay, 
the  keen-edged  spear  of  the  hunter  penetrates  his  side, 
and  an  end  is  put  to  the  moonlight  foragings  of  the  boar 
for  ever.  In  this  manner  six  or  seven  pigs  were  dis- 
patched in  the  course  of  the  day. 

The  Boar  of  Borneo  (Sus  barbatus)  has,  when  full- 
grown,  rather  a  formidable  appearance.     It  is  furnished 
with  enormous  whiskers,  a  huge  tuft  upon  the  nose,  and 
a  shaggy  main  ;  and  it  has  a  fierce,  red  eye,  and  a  singu- 
larly elongated  head  and  muzzle.     It  runs  with  great 
rapidity,  is  very  wild  and  wary,  and  is  chiefly  nocturnal 
in  its  habits.  It  appears  to  be  very  partial  to  crustaceous 
animals,  which  it  finds  on  the  muddy  banks  of  the  rivers 
after  the  fall  of  the  tide  ;  and  is  frequently  seen  at  dusk, 
wandering  in  large  numbers  along  the  flat  sandy  coasts, 
evidently  bent  upon  the  exciting  errand  of  searching  for 
these  delicacies.     Some  are  perfectly  grey  in  the  colour 
of  their  skins,  and  a  large  specimen,  captured  by  one  of 
the  crew  of  our  jolly-boat,  as  he  was  swimming  across 
the  mouth  of  the  Morataba  river,  was  entirely  of  a  dirty 
white  colour.      This  animal,  which  remained  with  us 
some  days,  stood  very  high  on  his  legs,  and  had  a  re- 
markably long   head.      He   was  secured  between  two 
guns  on  the  main  deck,  but  always  continued  very  savage 
and  refractory.     As  we  were  leaving  the  anchorage,  he 


400  CRUSTACEA. 

broke  his  tether,  leaped  out  of  the  port,  and  was  most 
probably  drowned,  although  we  saw  him  strike  out  lustily 
for  the  shore.  One  of  this  species  was  killed  by  Lieut, 
(now  Commander)  Inglefield,  at  Unsang,  on  the  east 
coast  of  Borneo,  of  enormous  dimensions.  It  was  a  full 
grown  boar,  and  weighed  more  than  five  score. 

Many  very  interesting  specimens  may  be  procured  at 
low  water,  in  the  flat,  sandy  bay  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Lundu.  It  was  here  that  we  had  the  good  fortune  to 
discover  a  new  species  of  Amphwxus,  or  Lancelet.  This 
interesting  link,  between  the  annelides  and  the  fishes, 
has  been  described  by  Mr.  Gray,*  who  has  named  it 
Ampkioxus  Belcheri.  Here  also  we  procured  a  very  ele- 
gant and  beautiful  species  of  Crustacea,  also  new  to 
science,  Amphitrite  argentata  (Adams  and  White)  ;f  while 
any  person  walking  along  the  shores  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood,  might  have  collected  numbers  of  very 
perfect  specimens  of  Tellina  Spengleri,  beautiful  violet- 
coloured  Mactras,  (Mactra  violacea,}  Solenocurtus  radiatus, 
and  frequently  a  tolerably  perfect  specimen  of  Rostellaria 
rectirostris.  Olives  and  Nassas  cover  the  moist  sand, 
and  a  brilliant  dark-coloured  Rotella,  a  species  not  yet 
described,  may  be  detected  lurking  by  thousands  imme- 
diately below  the  surface  in  company  with  another  species. 
Several  specimens  of  that  strange  genus,  Calappa,  were 
taken  by  us  in  this  locality. 

Near  the  Dyak  village  of  Samarhtan,  not  far  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Lundu,  there  are  certain  mud-banks  left 
dry  at  low  water,  and  which  are  perfectly  cribriform  with 

*  Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.  vol.  xix.  p.  463. 
f  List  of  Specimens  of  Crust,  in  Brit.  Mus.  p.  126. 


HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS.  401 

the  cylindric  holes  of  Gelasimi,  Ocypode,  and  Gonoplax. 
When  their  communities  are  no  longer  flooded  by  the 
water,  these  bustling  little  Crustaceans  make  their  ap- 
pearance in  dense  crowds,  but  retreat  on  the  slightest 
alarm  to  their  subterranean  burrows.  They  are  of  every 
variety  of  colour,  some  of  them  being  milk-white,  some 
purple,  others  reddish,  and  many  perfectly  black.  So 
numerous  are  these  Crabs,  that  seen  at  a  little  distance, 
they  give  the  soil  a  variegated  aspect,  nearly  obscuring 
the  original  blue  colour  of  the  mud.  A  Crab,  with  a  trian- 
gular carapace,  of  a  light  brown,  is  also  common  among 
the  tufts  of  grass  in  the  vicinity. 

A.  few  remarks  on  the  habits  of  certain  genera  of  Crus- 
taceans, which  I  have  noticed  in  the  course  of  our  wan- 
derings, may  be  deemed  of  interest  by  some  of  my 
readers,  although  the  subject  will  be  more  fully  treated 
of  in  another  work.  The  Grapsi  are  more  varied  in  their 
habits  than  is  generally  supposed.  The  common  species 
(G.  varius]  and  others,  are  found  running  over  the  rocks 
near  the  sea,  feeding  on  the  Periopthalmi,  Blennies, 
and  other  fish,  that  quit  the  water  for  short  inter- 
vals, and  attacking  occasionally  the  sessile  Cirrhipeds, 
as  Balanus  and  Conia,  fixed  on  the  surface,  or  that 
pedunculated  one  which  fills  up  the  fissures,  the  Poli- 
cipes.  Darwin  tells  us,  he  has  seen  them  come  to  the 
nests  of  Sea-birds,  and  without  ceremony  help  them- 
selves to  the  fish  which  the  parent  birds  had  brought  to 
feed  their  nestlings.  They  run  with  the  greatest  rapidity, 
and  are  very  cunning  and  difficult  to  capture.  There  is 
one  species, however,  (G.latifrons,  White)  that  I  have  found 
inhabiting  fresh-water  rivulets  and  ponds,  which  has  all 

VOL.  II.  2  I) 


402  HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS. 

the  quick,  vivacious  movements  of  its  wary  consirnilars, 
and  when  hotly  pursued  hides  under  weeds  and  stones, 
remaining  perfectly  quiet  till  the  enemy  is  supposed  to  be 
gone.  The  most  common  species  on  the  coast  of  Borneo 
appears  to  be  the  Grapsm  plicatm,  which  differs,  however, 
in  colour  in  a  very  remarkable  degree,  even  in  localities 
not  very  distant  from  each  other. 

Some  of  the  large,  powerful  species  of  Grapsida  are 
very  bold,  active,  and  predacious.  I  have  seen  them  steal 
with  an  almost  imperceptible  motion,  and  in  a  cautious 
sidelong  manner,  towards  a  Periophthalmus  basking  on 
the  rock,  and  before  the  fish  had  time  to  plunge  into  the 
sea,  the  pincer  of  the  crab  had  secured  it  in  a  vice-like 
gripe,  and  the  unfortunate  victim  was  consumed  at  leisure. 
While  watching  the  evolutions  of  this  lively  and  sagacious 
Crustacean,  I  could  not  help  comparing  it  to  an  enor- 
mous Attus  or  Jumping  Spider,  which,  in  a  somewhat 
similar  manner,  creeps  towards  the  flies  on  which  it  preys, 
and  suddenly  surprises  them,  by  leaping  on  their  backs, 
and  sucking  their  blood. 

The  Lambrus,  owing  to  its  similarity  to  the  gravelly 
floor  on  which  it  is  generally  found,  must  readily  escape 
detection  by  its  enemies.  Its  body  and  members,  in  fact, 
appear  to  be  made  up  of  a  conglomerated  mass  of  small 
stones.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  so  many  animals,  living 
upon  the  submerged  beds  of  broken  shells  and  muddy 
gravel  in  the  China  Sea,  should  present  a  similar  appear- 
ance. Such  is  the  case  with  Phoridte,  Ampldtrite,  and 
many  species  of  Alcyonia.  Two  new  species  of  the  genus 
Lambrus  were  obtained  from  the  Java  Sea,  and  the  coast 
of  Borneo,  and  have  been  named  by  Mr.  White  and 
myself  L.  rapax  and  L.  seynis. 


HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS.  403 

Where  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Sarawak  disembogues 
into  the  sea,  at  low  water,  there  is  a  very  extensive  mud- 
flat,  the  entire  surface  of  which  is  perforated  in  every 
part  by  a  hitherto  undescribed  species  of  Gebia,  which 
hides  in  a  perpendicular  position,  in  a  superficial  burrow, 
with  the  extremities  of  the  chelae  at  the  orifice  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  whatever  prey  may  offer.  Thousands 
of  Macrophthalmi  and  other  crabs  live  in  the  same  spot, 
with  a  small  species  of  Lingula ;  while  upon  the  slimy 
surface,  crawl  thousands  of  little  brown  Cylichna,  several 
Mangelite,  and  Columbetta. 

The  Spheromas  are  generally  obtained  in  company  with 
Cymodocete,  CassidincB,  Amplioroidete  and  others,  among 
dense  masses  of  floating  Sea-weed,  where  they  appear  to 
live  an  active  predatory  life  among  the  populous  mazes  of 
their  small,  floating  forest.  They  are  constantly  spinning 
and  darting  about,  rolling  up  their  bodies  into  a  ball, 
then  straightening  them,  and  crawling  among  the  Algae 
and  Keratophytes,  with  a  great  deal  of  vivacity.  Among 
the  collection  brought  home  in  the  Samarang,  are  several 
species  not  before  known  to  Crustaceologists. 

The  very  handsome  genus  Sicyonia  of  Edwards,  swims 
in  a  slow  and  deliberate  manner  forwards,  and  occasion- 
ally with  a  sudden  jerk  propels  itself  vigorously,  in  a 
backward  direction.  It  keeps  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  shore,  and  appears  to  love  deep,  still  water, 
never  appearing  when  the  sea  is  at  all  ruffled.  The 
species  obtained  by  us  is  new,  and  is  deposited,  with  the 
other  Crustaceans,  in  the  British  Museum. 

Like  the  genera  Thenus  and  Ibacus,  the  Scyttants  lives 
at  some  distance  from  the  shore,  and  in  tolerably  deep 

2  i)  -2 


404  HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS. 

water.  It  swims  in  the  manner  of  a  Oranpon,  by  rapid 
inflections  of  the  abdomen.  It  will  occasionally  spring 
through  the  water  with  the  greatest  velocity,  in  a  back- 
ward direction,  and  when  caught  wounds  the  hands  with 
the  tail,  which  it  throws  about  with  violent  jerks. 

Among  numbers  of  new  and  interesting  genera  of 
Crustaceous  animals  found  by  us  in  the  province  of 
Unsang,  Borneo,  was  a  new  species  of  Alope  (White),  a 
remarkable  shrimp-like  animal,  with  one  foot-claw  rudi- 
mental,  and  the  other  enormously  developed.  It  is  an 
active  and  restless  little  creature,  darting  and  whirling 
forwards  and  backwards,  and  frequently  producing  a 
loud  clicking  noise  by  snapping  the  pincer  at  the  end  of 
the  large  foot-claw,  in  the  manner  of  the  Callianassa  and 
Squilla.  Specimens  may  be  found  under  nearly  every 
stone  which  is  turned  on  the  beach  at  low-water  mark, 
and  the  loud  noise  it  makes,  when  discovered,  would 
astonish  persons  ignorant  of  the  cause  of  its  production. 

The  Gonodactyli  appear  to  differ  from  Squilla  in  their 
habits,  inasmuch  as  they  are  generally  found  in  deeper 
water,  whereas  the  Squilla  affect  the  shallow,  weedy,  and 
sandy  bottoms,  within  coral  reefs,  and  on  flat  beaches, 
where  they  hide  in  holes  of  the  banks  of  pools,  across 
which  they  dart  occasionally  in  straight  lines,  leaving  a 
turbid  track  behind  them.  They  both,  however,  have 
the  same  power  of  producing  a  loud  clicking  noise  with 
their  chelae,  and  of  inflicting  very  severe  wounds  with 
those  organs,  using  them  in  a  scythe-like  manner,  like 
the  Mantis. 

The  Cryptopodia  dorsalis  (Adams  and  White)  is  found 
on  a  stony  bottom,  in  deep  water.  It  has  the  habits  of 


HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS.  405 

Calappa,  feigning  death,  and  concealing  the  legs  under 
the  edge  of  the  carapace,  and  folding  the  chelae  upon 
themselves  to  protect  the  eyes  and  mouth. 

The  Trapezia  are  tolerably  lively  in  their  habits,  with 
the  same  manner  of  hiding,  and  shuffling  under  stones, 
as  the  Porcettance ;  but  unlike  them,  they  inhabit  the  coral 
branches  of  deep  sunken  reefs. 

Many  species  of  Idotea  and  lara  would  appear  to  in- 
habit the  Sea-weed  along  the  shores,  as  well  as  that 
found  floating  in  the  high  seas.  At  Quelpart,  I  found  a 
large  and  singular  species,  not  yet  described,  in  the 
former  situation ;  and  in  the  sea  of  Celebes,  I  met  with 
another  new  form  among  Algae  far  from  land. 

The  species  of  the  genus  Lupocyclus  (Adams  and  White) 
are  very  active  in  the  water,  and  keep  rather  close  in 
shore.  They  swim  by  quick,  rapid  jerks  along  the 
bottom,  and  when  caught,  pinch  rather  severely,  and 
wound  the  fingers  with  the  spines  of  their  chelae.  Their 
habits,  indeed,  are  very  similar  to  those  of  Lupa,  Neptu- 
nus,  and  other  swimming  crabs. 

The  Chorinus  acanthonotus  (Adams  and  White)  inhabits, 
like  the  Mithrax,  deep  water,  and  prefers  those  localities 
where  the  bottom  is  covered  with  weeds ;  it  is  inactive  in 
its  movements,  and  becomes  rigid  in  all  its  limbs  when 
first  captured. 


400 


CHAPTER  VII. 

BOKNEO. 

Atitbotvg — The  Badjows — The  Illanons — Appearance  of  the  Country — 
Wild  Men  in  the  Mountains — Tampassook — Scenery — The  haunts 
of  Pirates— New  species  of  Lantern-Fly — Lantern-Flies  not  lumi- 
nous— A  beautiful  Flata — Gigantic  Tent-Caterpillar — Habits  of 
certain  Ants — The  dwellings  of  the  White  Ants  —  Habits  of 
Scarabi  and  other  Mollusks  —  Brunai  —  The  Upas-Tree  — The 
Pantai — Scenery  of  the  River — A  deserted  Village — The  Rajah's 
grave — Bats  and  other  Animals — Bulungan — The  Orang  Sagai — 
Wild  and  cultivated  Plants — Terrestrial  Leeches — The  Nibong 
Palm — Vegetable  Tallow — Aromatic  Barks — Plants  used  for  be- 
numbing Fish — Singular  mode  of  fishing — Insects — Leegeetan — 
Scenery — Poisonous  Plants — Insects — Birds — Habits  of  Crusta- 
ceans. 

ON  the  25th  of  September,  the  Samarang  was  again 
at  Singapore,  leaving  which  we  arrived  at  Borneo  on  the 
1 3th  of  October,  touched  at  the  Island  of  Labuan  on  the 
22nd,  and  on  the  3rd  of  November,  the  ship  was  towed 
into  the  snug  little  bay  of  Ambong,  our  business  being 
to  rescue,  if  possible,  an  English  lady,  said  to  be 
detained  prisoner  at  this  place.  The  village  is  miserably 
poor  and  dirty,  with  about  fifty  houses,  and  a  few 
squallid,  leprous  Badjows,  or  Sea  Gypsies,  for  inha- 
bitants. So  badly  off  for  comforts  were  these  poor 


PIRATES  AND  WILD-MEN.  407 

people  that  they  willingly  gave  us  a  bullock  for  a  piece  of 
calico,  and  a  fowl  for  an  empty  wine-bottle.  They  told  a 
pitiful,  and  no  doubt  perfectly  true,  story  about  a  famous 
Illanon  pirate-chief,  having  come  from  the  neighbouring 
Tampassook,  and  taken  away  the  young  men  of  the  vil- 
lage, leaving  those  that  remained  nearly  destitute.  The 
adjoining  country  is  beautiful,  exhibiting  in  its  sea-ward 
aspect  more  especially,  gently  undulating  hills,  covered 
with  a  long,  rank,  green-looking  grass,  in  many  parts 
higher  than  a  man's  head ;  little  rivulets  trickle  down  the 
sides,  and  form  refreshing  springs  under  the  shade  of  the 
trees  that  overhang  the  beaches  of  little  coves  and  bays. 
The  mountains  in  the  vicinity  are  inhabited  by  a  wild 
and  savage  race  of  Dyaks,  possessed,  by  all  accounts, 
of  a  much  larger  stock  of  energy  than  the  poverty-stricken 
gypsies  of  the  village.  The  bay  abounded  with  fish  of 
the  most  beautiful  colours  and  striking  forms,  keeping 
my  pencil  pretty  well  employed. 

On  the  10th  of  November  we  touched  at  Tampassook, 
a  lovely,  fertile  plain,  with  a  river  running  through  it, 
from  its  source  in  the  huge  mountain  of  Kini  Balu, 
which  towers  above  the  plain,  and  forms  a  most  imposing 
back-ground.  The  towns  about  here,  and  on  the  river's 
banks,  are  stated  to  swarm  with  Illanon  pirates,  a  brave 
and  bold  set  of  buccaneers,  who  keep  the  entire  coasts  of 
Borneo  and  other  islands  in  a  constant  state  of  alarm. 
Those  we  saw  were  fierce,  proud,  and  well-made  men, 
handsomely  clothed,  and  fully  armed. 

Among  several  other  splendid  insects  captured  by  me 
in  the  course  of  this  short  cruise,  I  may  mention  a  large 
and  handsome  new  species  of  Lantern-Fly,  which  I  have 


408  LANTERN-FLIES. 

named  Fidgora  (Hotinus)  Sultana*  The  form  of  the 
beak,  or  rostrum,  is  intermediate  between  that  of  H. 
clavatus  and  H.  pyrorhynchus,  and  like  the  upper  surface 
of  the  thorax,  is  of  a  rich  blood-red  colour ;  the  elytra 
are  blackish,  brown  at  the  base,  with  the  tip  ochraceous, 
and  traversed  by  numerous  veins  of  the  same  colour ;  the 
wings  are  of  a  deep  carmine,  fading  to  pink  towards  the 
anal  angle,  the  tips  being  brown,  with  four  or  five 
roundish  white  spots.  The  body  above  is  straw-coloured, 
and,  when  the  insect  was  alive,  was  covered  with  a  white 
mealy  substance,  which  I  have  noticed  on  many  other 
insects  in  the  tropics.  This  showy-looking  addition  to 
our  known  Lantern-Flies  remains  in  a  torpid  state  during 
the  day,  and  becomes  more  active  in  the  evening ;  in  this 
respect  being  analogous  to  its  consimilar  genera  Aphenia, 
Flata,  Ptfciloptera,  and  Euriptera,  which  generally  select 
the  early  part  of  the  night  for  their  Sittings.  None 
of  these  insects,  according  to  my  observation,  are  lumi- 
nous in  the  slightest  degree ;  I  have  kept  the  Hotinus 
Sultana,  and  the  common  Chinese  species,  for  many 
days,  but  have  never  seen  the  vestige  of  any  luminous 
property,  either  about  their  so-called  lanterns,  or  else- 
where. Madame  Merian  has  stated,  however,  that  the 
Surinam  species  is  luminous. 

I  have  figured  a  very  lovely  unpublished  species  of 
Flata,  which  I  procured  in  the  jungle  immediately 
behind  the  village  of  Ambong,  the  elytra  of  which  are  of 
a  light  semi-transparent  sepia,  with  a  darker  brown  circle 
and  a  broad  diagonal  white  linear  mark,  and  yellowish 
tips ;  the  wings  are  of  a  light,  silvery,  semi-opaque 

*  Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.  vol.  xx.  p.  204. 


GIGANTIC  TENT-CATERPILLAR.  409 

white,  the  head  is  fawn-coloured ;  the  eyes  and  the 
antennae  are  black ;  the  thighs  pale-yellow,  and  the 
legs  and  tarsi  black.  This  truly  elegant  species  flies  by 
night  in  a  weak  and  fluttering  manner,  and  with  a 
peculiar  oscillatory  movement  of  the  wings  ;  by  day  it  is 
sluggish,  and  reposes  on  the  surface  of  leaves.  Near 
Ambong  an  Oiketicus  is  found  feeding  on  the  trees  with 
a  case  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  composed  of  dead  and 
withered  leaves,  forming  externally  a  compact  and  hollow 
cylinder,  closed  at  the  posterior  end,  and  lined  with  a 
well-woven,  downy  felt,  of  a  dirty  brown-colour,  fabri- 
cated from  a  finely-comminuted,  vegetable  substance. 
The  larva  is  tolerably  active  and  very  voracious,  and  the 
imago  is  a  large,  dull-brown  moth.  Among  the  high 
grass,  I  noticed  the  active  black-and-yellow  Gryllus 
elegam  (Guer)  and,  alighting  on  the  leaves  in  sunny  spots 
of  the  forests,  may  be  seen  the  Phytomia  chrysorrkcea 
(Guer)  of  a  beautiful  metallic-blue,  with  a  golden  tail, 
and  the  large  carnivorous  Milesia  gigas. 

During  a  ramble  into  the  jungle,  I  was  very  much 
amused  by  observing  the  great  variety  of  Ants  that 
abound  in  these  forests  of  Borneo.  An  Ant,  usually 
more  solitary  than  its  neighbours,  which  I  have  named 
the  "  Bombardier,"  has  a  mode  of  defence  similar  to  that 
of  Brachinus  crcpitans.  When  irritated,  it  turns  up  the 
caudal  segments  of  the  body  in  the  manner  of  an  angry 
Staphylinus,  and  forthwith  emits  a  continuous  stream  of 
dense,  white,  acrid  vapour.  This  Ant  is  nearly  half  an 
inch  long,  with  a  large  head  and  enormous  mandibles. 
It  is  of  a  shiny  black  colour,  and  has  no  sting. 

There  is  another  ingenious  species  which  constructs  its 


410  HABITS  OF  ANTS. 

domicile  out  of  a  large  leaf,  bending  the  two  halves  by 
the  weight  of  united  millions,  till  the  opposite  margins 
meet  at  the  under  surface  of  the  midrib,  where  they  are 
secured  by  a  gummy  matter.  The  stores  and  larvae  are 
conveyed  into  this  arboreal  home  by  regular  beaten 
tracks,  along  the  trunk  and  branches  of  the  tree. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Linga,  the  trees  are  covered  with 
black-coloured  nests  built  by  an  insect  of  a  red  colour 
and  of  large  size.  These  aerial  habitacula  are  formed  of 
prepared  vegetable  matter,  mixed  with  a  tenacious 
secretion,  and  peopled  with  inhabitants  furnished  with  a 
most  tormenting  sting. 

In  many  parts  of  Borneo,  there  is  a  shining  black  Ant 
about  the  sixth  of  an  inch  long,  whose  habits  are 
altogether  nocturnal.  During  the  day,  it  remains  con- 
cealed within  its  subterranean  galleries;  but  as  the  night 
advances,  it  covers  the  ground  in  moist  and  sheltered 
places  with  its  myriad  hordes.  Its  sting  is  very  severe, 
though  the  pain  and  irritation  soon  pass  away. 

The  habitations  of  those  ingenious  little  architects,  the 
Termites,  or  white  Ants,  have  been  often  mentioned  by  tra- 
vellers. One  species  occurring  among  these  islands  builds  its 
city  of  finely-comminuted  leaves  and  mud,  forming  a  huge 
hemispherical  nest  on  the  trunks  of  trees.  The  interior 
consists  of  myriads  of  cancetti,  separated  by  walls  and 
passages,  which  are  all  thronged  by  the  tiny  soft-bodied 
inhabitants.  On  being  disturbed,  the  big-headed  soldiers 
make  absurd  and  impotent  attempts  to  defend  their 
Queen  and  helpless  workers,  who  immediately  retire 
within  the  recesses  of  the  city.  Seen  from  a  little 
distance,  this  arboreal  insect-metropolis  looks  like  an 


SCARABI  AND  OTHER  MOLLTJSKS.  411 

enormous  vegetable  excrescence,  or  wen  growing  from 
the  bole  of  the  tree.  There  are,  moreover,  covered 
galleries  from  the  ground,  made  of  mud,  leading  to  the 
city  gates. 

Cuvier  says  the  Scarabi  feed  on  aquatic  plants,  but  I 
have  never  observed  them  among  the  Algae  that  lie  along 
the  shore;  but  in  the  dark,  damp  woods,  more  par- 
ticularly along  the  sea-coasts,  they  are  very  numerous. 
They  love  a  humid  soil,  and  crawl  languidly  like  the 
snail.  They  are  fond  of  congregating  together  under 
stones  and  tree-roots,  or  in  holes  of  the  ground.  They 
feed  on  partially  decayed  leaves,  and  lay  their  eggs  under 
damp  rotten  logs,  and  the  young  shells  may  be  found 
concealed,  in  large  numbers,  in  the  crevices  of  dead 
trunks.  The  Scarabi  assume  various  shades  of  colour, 
from  a  mottled  reddish  brown  to  pale  yellow,  and  I  have 
even  seen  them  white. 

The  species  of  Conovulus,  which  lives  entirely  in  the 
salt  water,  has  a  shell  of  a  much  firmer  character  than 
that  which  is  found  amphibious,  among  the  mangrove 
swamps.  In  fact,  it  generally  follows,  that  shells,  which 
inhabit  both  the  land  and  the  water,  are  intermediate  in 
density  of  structure  between  marine  and  terrestrial  species, 
and  are  covered  in  general  with  an  epidermis.  Thus  we 
find  Telescopium,  Potomis,  and  Terebralia,  covered  with  a 
kind  of  epidermis,  and  their  calcareous  dwellings  less 
solid  than  their  marine  analogues,  the  Ccrithia.  In  like 
manner,  I  have  found  a  shell  in  the  rivers  of  Celebes, 
named  Mdatoma,  by  Swainson,  which  bears  the  same 
relation  to  PIcuroloma.  The  Potawomya  is  a  thinner 


412  MOLLUSCA. 

shell  than  Corbula,  which  it  represents,  and  Neritina  than 
Nerita.  I  have  found  a  species  of  Pkolas  in  the  fresh- 
water rivers  of  Borneo,  living  in  dead  trunks  of  trees, 
which  is  partially  covered  with  a  thick  brown  epidermis. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  nearer  mollusks  live 
to  the  sea-water,  the  more  dense  their  shells  generally 
become.  This  may  be  noticed  in  those  species  of 
Auricula  and  Melampus,  found  among  the  loose  stones 
on  beaches  ;  and  among  the  Korean  Islands,  I  have  found 
a  Cydostoma,  in  heaps  of  stones,  near  the  sea,  of  a  very 
compact  appearance,  compared  with  the  terrestrial  species. 
The  Cyclotrema  and  Scalaria,  their  marine  analogues, 
are  yet  more  calcareous  and  dense  in  their  structure. 
Among  the  Philippines,  I  have  observed  some  auriculari- 
form  MitrfB  crawling  about  the  stones,  which  the  receding 
tide  had  left  exposed,  in  the  manner  of  the  Quoyia  and 
certain  species  of  Planaxis.  These  Mitrce  have  an 
epidermis,  and  are  hardly  of  so  dense  a  nature  as  other 
members  of  the  family.  The  exception  to  the  foregoing 
rule  is  to  be  found  in  those  pelagic  animals,  in  which  the 
extreme  lightness  of  the  shell  constitutes  their  best 
security ;  for  the  ocean  may  toss  them  in  its  fury,  but, 
unless  a  foreign  body  interpose,  their  tenuity  saves  them 
from  being  injured. 

While  residing  at  Brunai,  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
examining  the  celebrated  Upas-tree  which  grows  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  opposite  the  city,  and  a  short  ac- 
count of  it  is  given  in  the  body  of  the  work ;  a  few 
notes  which  I  shall  here  add,  may  not,  however,  be 
deemed  altogether  void  of  interest. 


THE  UPAS.  413 

Mr.  Crawfurd  observes*  that  the  word  upas  "is  not  a 
specific  term,  but  the  common  name  for  poison  of  any 
description  whatever."  He  says  that  Antiaris  toxicaria, 
although  the  common  source  of  the  vegetable  poison  in 
use,  does  not  yield  so  intense  a  poison  as  the  Chetik,  a 
large  creeping  plant  found  only  in  Java.  This  is  the 
same  plant  Strychnos  Tieute,  "Tshettik"  or  "Tjettik,"  I 
have  alluded  to  in  my  notice  of  the  Upas-tree,  as  the 
Upas-Radja  of  the  Japanese.  The  symptoms  produced 
by  the  Strychnos  poison  are  nervous,  while  those  produced 
by  the  juice  of  the  Antiaris  act  chiefly  on  the  vascular 
system.  The  violent  effects  of  the  latter  are  certainly 
very  much  exaggerated,  and  from  what  I  have  noticed 
myself  and  gathered  from  hearsay,  I  am  inclined  to  agree 
with  Mr.  Crawfurd,  who  observes  very  truly  that  "it 
proves  hurtful  to  no  plant  around  it,  and  creepers  and 
parasitical  plants  are  found  winding  in  abundance 
about  it; "  and  in  another  place  "beneath  the  shade  of  it 
the  husbandman  may  repose  himself  with  as  much 
security  as  under  that  of  cocoa-palm  or  bamboo."  The 
supposed  remedy  which  Rumphius  mentions  under  the 
names  of  Bakung  and  Radix-toxicaria  is  the  Crinum 
asiaticum  of  Roxborough,f  the  bulbs  of  which  act  bene- 
ficially by  inducing  violent  vomiting. 

Mr.  Brooke,  in  his  journal,  makes  the  following  obser- 
vation on  this  famous  poison-tree,  and  the  plants  sometimes 
confounded  with  it: — "On  the  authority  of  Sulerman, 
an  intelligent  Meri  man,  I  am  told  that  the  tree  below  the 
town  is  the  real  upas,  called  by  the  Meri  men  tajim. 

*Hist.  Incl.  Arch.  vol.  i.  p.  467 
f  Flor.  Ind.  Vol.  2.  p.  128. 


414  ASCEND  A  RIVER. 

The  Borneons  call  it  upas.  Bina  (the  name  we  formerly 
got  from  a  Borneon  for  upas)  is  by  Sulerman's  statement 
a  thin  creeper,  the  root  or  stem  of  which,  being  steeped 
in  water,  is  added  to  the  upas  to  increase  the  poisonous 
quality:  it  is  not,  however,  poisonous  itself.  There  is 
another  creeper,  likewise  called  bina,  the  leaves  of  which 
are  steeped  and  mixed  with  the  upas,  instead  of  a  stem  of 
the  first  sort."  With  this  interesting  statement,  we  dis- 
miss the  Upas,  by  admitting  in  the  words  of  Crawfurd 
that,  "Every  thing  we  know  of  the  true  history  of  the 
Upas  tree  proclaims  the  egregious  mendacity  of  the  man 
who  promulgated  the  fable  respecting  it,  which  has 
obtained  currency  in  Europe,  and  the  extraordinary 
credulity  of  those  who  listened  to  his  extravagant  fic- 
tion."* 

On  the  27th  of  November,  we  left  Manila,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  rescuing  from  the  hands  of  the  Sultans  of  Bulungan 
and  Gunung  Taboor,  the  crew  of  the  '  Premier,'  a  mer- 
chant ship  which  had  been  wrecked  on  a  shoal  near  Pulo 
Panjang,  on  the  coast  of  Borneo,  first  touching  at  Sooloo 
for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a  pilot.  On  our  passage  to 
the  Pantai  river  we  perceived  the  remains  of  the  ill- 
fated  vessel.  As  we  ascended  the  river,  the  scenery  was 
observed  to  be  very  wild  and  romantic,  conveying  a  strik- 
ing view  of  the  vast  extent  of  vegetation  which  exists  in 
every  part  of  this  island.  Meeting  with  no  traces  of 
habitations,  however,  in  this  long  branch  of  the  river,  we 
returned  to  the  ship,  and  on  the  following  day  proceeded 
to  explore  the  other  branch,  which,  as  we  ascended  it, 
expanded  in  one  part  of  its  course  into  a  large,  wide, 
*Hist.  Ind.  Arch.  vol.  i.  page  471. 


A  DESERTED  VILLAGE.  415 

navigable  river,  with  numerous  islets  dotting  its  surface, 
and  having  the  banks  clothed  with  the  most  superb 
timber-trees,  and  the  most  beautiful  and  luxuriant  vege- 
tation imaginable. 

In  the  course  of  our  progress  up  the  river,  we  came  to 
a  deserted  village,  and  while  the  captain  was  observing,  I 
joined  an  exploring  expedition,  and  examined  the  country 
around.  Our  attention  being  directed  to  a  building  on  a 
hill  surmounting  the  ruined  hamlet,  we  scaled  the  height, 
and  found  it  to  consist  of  the  tomb  of  a  Rajah  or  other 
great  man.  It  was  neatly  palisadoed  round,  and  covered 
with  a  kedjang  roof,  while,  in  the  interior,  over  the  grave, 
was  a  faded  canopy  of  silk.  In  the  course  of  our  scrutiny 
a  large  and  handsome  Snake  was  espied  among  the  rafters, 
and  an  animated  hunt  ensued,  which  ended,  however,  in 
the  escape  of  the  serpent.  In  our  eagerness  to  obtain  the 
specimen,  the  shed  was  unroofed,  and,  as  I  was  anxious 
to  ascertain  the  mode  of  sepulture  among  the  Malays,  I 
got  permission  from  the  captain  to  dis-inter  the  Rajah, 
and  examine  the  grave.  Some  men  being  placed  at  my 
disposal,  we  proceeded  in  our  unholy  work,  and,  at  about 
four  feet  from  the  surface,  came  to  a  board  placed  in  a 
diagonal  manner  across  the  shaft,  on  carefully  removing 
which  we  perceived  a  square  lateral  chamber,  or  cavity, 
where  the  mortal  remains  of  the  deceased  "  Orang  Kaya" 
were  reposing.  The  skeleton  was  that  of  a  very  old  man, 
and  is  now  in  the  Museum  of  the  College  of  Surgeons. 
Not  a  vestige  of  clothing,  not  even  the  wrapper  of  white 
cloth  which  is  said  to  be  generally  employed,  nor  any 
arms,  amulets,  or  ornaments  of  any  kind  were  found  in 
the  grave.  The  body  was  laid  upon  the  right  side,  with 


416  BATS  AND  OTHER  ANIMALS. 

the  knees  in  a  bent  position  ;  and  the  flesh  was  mummi- 
fied and  adhering  firmly  to  the  bone ;  the  ligament  con- 
necting the  hyoid  bone  to  the  styloid  process,  and  also 
the  thyroid  and  cricoid  cartilages  were  completely  ossified; 
the  hair  was  thin,  and  the  alveolar  processes  of  the  jaws 
absorbed,  thus  proving  the  extreme  old  age  of  the  ex- 
humed. 

I  was  very  much  astonished  at  the  great  numbers  of 
bats  which  were  here  concealed  in  the  heads  of  the  Ba- 
nana trees,  and  which  flew  forth,  when  disturbed,  on  feeble, 
fluttering  wings,  many  among  them  having  a  couple  of 
little  ones  clinging  tenaciously  to  the  pectoral  mammae  of 
their  mothers.  The  swampy  ground  in  the  neighbour- 
hood abounded  in  Assiminea,  small  univalve  Mollusks, 
and  was  covered  in  many  places  by  the  foot-prints  of 
deer  and  wild  hogs.  On  raising  a  tablet  suspended 
to  an  old  tombstone,  to  endeavour  to  decipher  the  in- 
scription, I  made  captive  an  enormous  black  scorpion, 
which  had  there  taken  up  his  quarters. 

Upon  passing  the  first  portion  of  Bulungan,  we  were 
desired  to  proceed  no  further,  or  the  Sultan  would  fire 
upon  us.  Disregarding  these  admonitory  warnings, 
however,  the  boats  continued  their  rapid  progress  up  the 
river,  and  finally  came  to  an  anchor  immediately  opposite 
the  palace  of  the  Sultan  Before  this  edifice  was  an  open 
space,  planted  with  numerous  pieces  of  cannon,  some  of 
large  calibre,  but  old,  and  badly  mounted ;  these  were 
manned  by  crowds  of  brown-skinned  warriors,  while 
hundreds  of  excited  armed  men  thronged  the  banks  in 
readiness  to  throw  the  spear  and  blow  the  deadly  sumpit. 
After  an  attempt  to  intimidate  us  by  a  pretence  to  fire, 


ORANG  SAGHAI.  417 

they  thought  it  advisable  to  establish  a  friendly  under- 
standing with  their  visitors.  Accordingly,  an  old  Arab, 
the  Sultan's  vizier,  or  prime  minister,  came  off  and 
civilly  enquired  our  pleasure.  On  being  informed  of  the 
nature  of  our  errand,  he  returned  to  apprize  his  Highness, 
and  to  prepare  a  rough  salute  in  honour  of  the  British 
flag,  which  latter  was  performed  in  a  respectable  manner, 
and  returned  by  us  in  somewhat  better  style ;  in  short, 
in  such  a  way  as  to  constrain  the  natives  to  behave  very 
civilly  while  we  remained  before  the  city.  The  officers 
accompanied  the  Captain  upon  a  visit  to  the  Sultan,  in 
state,  who  consented  to  deliver  up  the  Lascars  then  in  his 
possession,  without  demanding  ransom.  As  many  of  these 
unfortunates  were  distributed  throughout  the  country, 
some  at  a  considerable  distance  from  Bulungan,  we  were 
necessitated  to  wait  in  the  river  more  than  a  week  before 
the  entire  number  could  be  collected,  which  afforded  us 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  something  of  the  neighbourhood. 
In  the  town  I  noticed  the  Phoenix  farinifera  and  in  the 
jungle  around  Caryota  urens,  Borassus  caudata,  Bam- 
bos  verticillata,  Pandanus  Icevis,  a  species  of  Calamus, 
and  various  plants  altogether  new  to  me  ;  offering  a  rich 
harvest  for  an  enterprising  collector,  and  a  rare  intellec- 
tual treat  to  the  Botanist. 

During  our  stay  at  Bulungan,  we  had  numerous  oppor- 
tunities of  observing  the  "  Orang  Saghai,"  or  wild  men  of 
Borneo,  who  came  from  the  mountains  in  great  numbers, 
probably  to  offer  their  services  to  the  Malays,  in  case  of 
any  warlike  operations  ensuing  with  the  English.  On 
our  proceeding  up  the  river,  long  before  the  town  came 
into  view,  isolated  canoes  betrayed  its  vicinity.  As  we 

2  E 


418  THE  SAOHAI  DYAKS. 

drew  nearer,  however,  the  boats  became  very  numerous, 
some  containing  hunting  and  fishing  parties,  and  others 
fully  equipped  for  war.  Among  the  most  striking  of 
these  latter,  were  several  long  and  narrow  canoes,  manned 
entirely  by  Dyaks,  arrayed  in  all  their  savage  finery  of 
plumes  and  skins  and  beads  and  other  uncouth  orna- 
ments, armed  invariably  with  the  blowpipe  or  sumpitan, 
and  carrying  quivers  of  sumpits,  or  small  upas-poisoned 
arrows,  a  long  light  spear,  a  shield  of  wood,  and  their 
constant  companion,  the  sharp -edged  parang ;  being  thus 
prepared,  as  they  thought,  either  for  attack  or  defence. 
Displaying  in  their  manner  neither  the  guile  nor  caution 
of  the  treacherous  and  wily  Malay,  these  untutored  deni- 
zens of  the  interior  showed  an  evident  and  lively  curiosity 
about  our  visit,  striving  to  approach  the  boats  and  engage 
in  conversation  with  the  white  man.  As  they  propel 
their  narrow  canoes  rapidly  along  the  river,  they  always 
stand  upright,  using  the  paddle  with  a  peculiar  jerking 
motion  of  the  body.  Many  among  them,  particularly 
those  holding  the  rank  of  chieftains,  were  very  gaily  and 
fantastically  ornamented.  In  the  feather  caps,  worn  by 
some,  the  long  tail-feathers  of  the  Argus  pheasant 
appeared  to  be  a  favourite  ornament.  In  the  rude  and 
showy  head-dresses  of  several  were  toupees  of  the  tail- 
feathers  of  cocks  and  other  birds,  giving  these  Orang 
Saghai  very  much  the  appearance  of  a  party  of  North 
American  Indians,  dressed  for  the  war-path.  Many  of 
their  caps  were  made  of  monkey,  lynx,  and  tiger  skins, 
and  adorned  with  the  beak  of  the  large  Hornbill  (Buceros 
Rhinoceros.}  Some  of  the  men  were  regularly  tattooed 
being  ornamented,  more  particularly  on  the  fore-arm  and 


THE  SAGHAI.  419 

instep,  with  various  figures,  frequently  very  graceful  in 
their  design,  and  very  neatly  executed.*  The  ears  of  the 
great  majority  were  wonderfully  metamorphosed,  and 
greatly  disfigured,  by  the  insertion  of  tigers'  teeth  in  a 
hole  of  the  summit  of  the  pinna,  and  of  rings,  sometimes 
single  and  sometimes  as  many  as  four  or  five,  composed 
of  tin  and  very  massive,  appended  to  the  lobe,  forming 
cumbrous  ear-rings.  These  enormous  metallic  pendants, 
being  very  heavy,  greatly  distended  the  aperture  in  the 
lobe,  which  frequently  descended  as  low  as  the  shoulder. 
They  dress  variously  in  the  skins  of  animals,  or  in  jackets 
made  of  the  bark  of  trees ;  some,  however,  were  entirely 
naked,  with  the  exception  of  a  waist-band  and  perineal 
appendage.  When  the  jacket  or  body-garment  consists 
of  a  lynx  or  tiger's  skin,  the  hind-paws  and  tail,  or  fore- 
paws  and  head,  hang  down  behind,  which  gives  the  wearer 
a  very  wild  and  picturesque  appearance. 

A  chief,  named  Meta,  was  very  anxious  that  we  should 
visit  him  in  his  home  among  the  hills.  He  seemed  to 
take  a  very  particular  liking  to  the  English,  and  was  our 
constant  visitor.  On  one  occasion  a  follower  of  his  was 
detected  in  the  act  of  abstracting  a  piece  of  white  calico, 
when  he  was  immediately  seized,  and  severely  chastised 
by  the  indignant  chief.  The  captain  forwarded  a  letter  by 
this  savage  to  Mr.  Brooke,  at  Sarawak,  Meta  assuring 
him  that  it  would  arrive  at  Brunai  perfectly  safe,  as  he 
would  transmit  it  across  the  country  from  tribe  to  tribe, 

*  Mr.  Earl  says,  that  he  has  seen  tattooed  Dayaks,  and  that  the 
Polynesian  custom  of  tattooing  the  skin  prevails  among  the  Dayak 
tribes  in  the  interior  of  Borneo. — PRICHAUD'S  Phys.  Hist,  of  Man- 
kind, vol.  v,  p.  91. 

2  E  2 


420  THE  SAGHAI 

carefully  avoiding  those  who  were  his  enemies.  The 
same  chief  blew  for  our  satisfaction  some  sumpits  across 
the  river ;  the  effort  appeared  to  be  very  great,  but  the 
direction  of  the  dart  was  straight,  and  its  force  consider- 
able. Before  using  the  sumpits,  they  tip  them  with  fresh 
poison,  and  steep  them  in  a  small  vessel  of  lime-juice,  which 
increases  its  virulence  and  activity.  Their  helmets,  or 
head-pieces,  which  are  made  of  strong  skin  and  bamboo, 
are  said  to  be  sumpit-proof;  so  are  also  the  corselets 
which  cover  their  breast  and  back,  so  that  only  the  arms 
and  legs  are  left  exposed.  Many  have  a  large  polished 
pearl-shell  appended  in  front,  probably  to  protect  the  belly 
and  navel.  Their  shields  are  of  hard  wood,  variously 
painted  and  ornamented  with  shells  and  tufts  of  human 
hair.  Some  of  these  shields  are  upwards  of  four  and  five 
feet  long,  and  two  broad. 

These  men  are  much  better  featured  than  the  Ma- 
lays, having  straighter  and  more  prominent  noses  and 
higher  foreheads.  They  wear  their  hair  long  and  straight, 
but  cut  short  across  the  forehead.  It  is  coarse  and  black, 
and  often  confined  by  a  white  cincture,  especially  among 
the  women  and  boys.  Cutaneous  diseases  appeared 
common  among  them,  particularly  a  rough,  scurfy  kind  of 
lepra,  which,  however,  they  are  said  to  produce  artificially, 
and  consider  ornamental.*  The  women  in  this  part  of 
the  island  do  not  appear  to  wear  the  ring-stays  of  stained 

*  Mr.  Earle  observes,  that  the  word  '  Dayak'  is  often  used  by  the 
Malays  to  designate  a  cutaneous  disease  to  which  the  aborigines  of 
Borneo  are  very  liable,  more  so  than  any  of  the  other  Polynesian  tribes 
whom  I  have  encountered.  I  am  of  opinion  that  this  is  the  origin  of 
the  term  Dayak,  as  applied  to  the  aborigines  of  Borneo. — PRICHARD'S 
Phys.  Hist,  of  Mankind,  vol.  v.  p.  89. 


DYAKS.  421 

bamboo  peculiar  to  some  tribes,  as  the  hill  Dyaks  of 
Serambo  and  others,  but  have  simply  a  sarong,  which 
extends  from  below  the  breasts  to  about  half  way  dow  u 
the  thigh.  Like  the  men,  they  disfigure  themselves  by 
wearing  enormous  weighty  ornaments  of  wood,  ivory,  or 
tin  in  the  lobes  of  their  ears.  In  their  persons  they  are 
usually  engaging  and  well  made,  stately  and  voluptuous 
in  their  gait  and  manner,  though  somewhat  too  en  bon 
point  to  please  the  fastidious  eye  of  an  Englishman.  They 
are  reported  by  the  Malays  to  be  very  modest,  chaste,  and 
constant  to  their  husbands.  Their  chief  employment 
here,  as  elsewhere  in  Borneo,  is  pounding  and  preparing 
the  padi  for  the  sustenance  of  their  lords  and  families. 
In  all  the  Dyak  tribes,  the  members  are  usually  divided 
into  those  who  make  war,  privileged  men,  the  flower  of  the 
tribe ;  those  who  manufacture  arms  ;  and  those  who  cul- 
tivate the  ground  and  make  ornaments  for  the  women. 
By  means  of  the  Saghai  a  profitable  trade  is  carried  on 
with  certain  Bugis  Makassars,  who  come  in  large  well- 
armed  prahus  from  Celebes.  Their  traffic  consists  chiefly 
of  bees-wax  and  camphor,  honey,  vegetable-tallow,  and 
areca-nuts ;  trepang,  damma  or  darner,  (the  concrete  juice 
of  Shorea  robusta,}  sharks'-fins,  tortoise-shell,  edible 
birds' -nests,  and  pearls  :  the  specimens  of  the  latter 
which  I  saw,  although  in  some  instances  of  large  size, 
were  very  indifferent  in  form  and  colour. 

Though  differing  in  some  respects  from  the  rude  and 
savage  Scythians  who  had  their  flocks  and  herds,  the 
Dyaks  yet  exhibit  a  pastoral  wandering  life,  mingled 
with  warlike  habits  and  sanguinary  customs,  resembling 
those  of  that  ancient  people.  Like  the  North  American 


422  DYAKS. 

Indians,  they  also  congregate  in  tribes,  and  only  obey 
chiefs  elected  from  the  wisest  and  bravest  of  their  horde. 
Although  in  a  measure  addicted  to  the  chase,  they  yet 
cultivate  the  soil,  and  live  upon  the  produce  of  the  earth. 
Like  the  Indians  of  the  West,  they  are  fond  of  decorating 
themselves  with  feathers  and  trophies,  and  if  they  do  not 
scalp  their  enemies,  they  deprive  them  of  their  heads. 
Amongst  themselves  they  are  quiet  and  gentle,  but  in 
war  their  passions  are  frightful,  fierce,  and  vengeful. 

The  females  are  better  treated  than  is  generally  the 
case  in  savage  tribes  ;  they  grind  the  padi  and  fabricate 
the  clothing ;  nor  does  the  whole  burden  of  tilling  the 
ground  devolve  entirely  on  the  weaker  sex,  as  is  the  case 
in  some  countries  not  yet  civilised.  In  the  terrible  ex- 
citement of  war,  the  fierce  yells  of  the  Dyaks,  like  the 
whoops  of  the  Red-Man,  are  demoniac.  Instead  of  the 
quiver  and  bow,  the  tomahawk  and  scalping-knife,  the 
Dyak  arms  himself  with  sumpitan  and  sumpits,  spear, 
and  parang.  They  attack  their  enemy  in  the  dead  of 
night,  without  even  the  fair  warning  of  the  red-tomahawk 
of  the  American  Indian,  and  with  equally  as  much  guile 
and  remorseless  compunction.  It  is  a  somewhat  remark- 
able fact,  that  many  among  the  Dyaks  fancy  heaven  is 
situated  at  the  top  of  Kini-Balu,  and  that  the  pass  is 
defended  by  a  savage  dog.  The  North  American  Indians 
likewise  imagine  their  land  of  souls  to  be  guarded  by  a 
furious  dog.  It  is  singular  that  the  Greeks  of  old  should 
have  entertained  a  similar  notion,  the  warder,  old  Cer- 
berus, at  the  gates  of  Hades,  being  represented  as  a  three- 
headed  dog.  The  Dyaks  believe  in  one  God,  whom  they, 
like  the  Red-Man,  regard  as  the  creating  and  preserving 


WILD  TRIBES.  423 

Spirit  of  the  universe ;  and  they  both  have  in  common, 
moreover,  a  belief  in  omens,  and  hold  certain  birds  in 
veneration.  With  regard  to  the  barbarous  custom  of 
cutting  off  heads,  we  are  told  that  the  aboriginal  inha- 
bitants of  New  Guinea,  the  Horraforas,  have  precisely  the 
same  practice.  Dr.  Coulter,  an  American  gentleman,  in 
an  account  of  his  adventures  among  those  people,  ob- 
serves, that  they  have  "  a  horrible  custom  I  believe  pecu- 
liar to  themselves  :  a  young  man,  before  he  can  possess 
his  bride,  must  present  her  with  a  human  head,  which 
must  not  be  mutilated,  but  on  careful  examination  of  it 
by  her  family,  bear  the  true  marks  and  ornaments  of  one 
of  an  enemy." 

Dr.  Dalton,  in  his  "  Essay  on  the  Dyaks,"  speaks  of 
some  wild  men  that  inhabit  the  north  of  Borneo,  who 
neither  cultivate  the  ground  nor  live  in  huts,  but  roam 
about  in  a  perfect  state  of  nature ;  who  do  not  associate, 
save  when  the  sexes  meet  in  the  forest.  When  their 
children  are  old  enough  to  shift  for  themselves,  they  quit 
their  parents  and  pursue  a  similar  savage  and  independent 
life.  They  sleep  under  the  overhanging  branches  of  the 
trees,  make  a  fire  to  keep  off  the  wild  beasts  and  snakes, 
cover  themselves  with  a  piece  of  bark,  and  are  hunted  by 
the  other  Dyaks,  who  regard  them  with  the  utmost 
contempt.  These  nobler  Savages  "shoot  the  children  in 
the  trees  with  the  sumpit,  the  same  as  monkeys  from 
which  they  are  not  easily  to  be  distinguished."  Dr. 
Leyden  also  observes  that  "the  lofty  mountains  ranged 
on  the  centre  of  Borneo  are  represented  as  occupied  by  a 
people  named  Punams  in  the  very  rudest  state  of  savage 
life." 


424  VEGETATION. 

As  you  approach  a  Dyak  Village,  the  splendour  of 
tropical  vegetation  cannot  fail  to  impress  the  visitor. 
The  magnificent  Maize  (Zea  mays]  springs  up  often  in 
large  and  vivid  patches ;  the  Bird's-eye  Pepper  and 
Turmeric  are  found  growing  like  common  weeds.  The 
Piper  Betle*  the  leaf  of  which  is  chewed  with  ripe  or 
green  pieces  of  the  nut  of  Areca  oleracea,  is  a  graceful, 
pretty  looking  plant,  particularly  when  loaded  with  long 
spikes  of  fruit.  Some  individuals  appear  however,  never  to 
have  fruit,  and  are  probably  barren  or  males.  The  Piper 
Betle  either  runs  like  a  creeper  along  the  ground,  or 
clings  to  the  trunks  of  trees  in  its  vicinity.  Sometimes 
you  will  see  it  climbing  up  poles  or  the  stems  of  the 
Papyia  and  Areca  palms  in  little  patches  which  are 
carefully  guarded  by  rude  palisades,  and  great  pains  taken 
by  attention  to  irrigation,  &c.  to  insure  a  good  flavour  in 
the  leaves.  Crawfurd  says  that  "in  the  northern  parts 
of  Hindostan  it  is  grown  almost  with  as  much  difficulty 
as  the  plants  of  warm  regions  in  our  hot-houses."  It  is 
a  curious  circumstance  that  the  use  of  the  Sirih  leaf 
diminishes  perspiration,  while  that  of  the  Ava  (Piper 
metliysticum}  is  used  among  the  Society  Islands  to  produce 
excessive  diaphoresis  for  the  cure  of  disease.  The  Durion 
(Durio  Zibetliinus)  and  Mangustan  (Garcinia  Mangostana) 
will  be  seen  in  some  campongs  amid  whole  groves  of 
broad-leaved  Plantains  (Musa  paradisiaca),  graceful 
Cocoa-nuts  (Cocos  nucifera),  elegant  Palmyras  (Borasms 

*  So  written  by  Linnaeus  (Sp,  Plant  40.)  Mr.  Crawfurd  has  Piper 
Betel,  although  he  observes  (Ind.  Arch.  p.  403)  that  "the  word  adopted 
in  the  European  languages  is  from  the  Telinga,  in  which  it  is  indifferently 
pronounced  Betle  or  Bctre." 


TERRESTRIAL  LEECHES.  425 

flabelliformis),  and  the  slender  tapering  Betel-nut  palm 
(Areca  oleraced) ;  while  the  showy-looking  Papaw  (Carica 
Papaya),  and  here  and  there  a  Rhambutan  tree  (Nephe- 
lium  Cappaceum},  or  a  dark-leaved  Guava  (Psidium 
pyriferum)  will  contrast  with  the  golden  fruit  of  the 
"Limau  gadang,"  or  Shaddock.  The  Bamboo  (Arundo 
Bambos)  forms  extensive  groves  at  the  back  of  many  of 
the  houses,  and  the  Pine-apple  (Bromelia  ananas) 
luxuriates  in  the  dark  damp  shady  nooks.  If  you  leave 
the  neighbourhood  of  man,  and  take  a  stroll  towards  the 
river's  bank,  you  may  see  the  showy  Pontederia  brighten- 
ing the  fluviatile  swamps  with  its  azure  blossoms.  Close 
to  the  water's  edge  the  "Paku  Grudu"  (Cycas  circinalis) 
frequently  grows  luxuriantly,  and  a  gigantic  kind 
of  Burr-weed  (Sparganium),  whose  yellow,  compound 
flowers,  form  quite  a  gay  relief  to  the  universal  green 
that  encloses  them  on  every  side,  and  whose  singular 
fruits  are  sure  to  arrest  the  attention  of  the  traveller.  At 
Bulungan,  the  forest  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  was  full  of 
leeches  and  Planaritf,  some  of  them  very  handsomely 
marked.  The  Leeches  crawl  upon  the  leaves  and  fasten 
to  the  skin  as  you  brush  by  the  branches,  but  the 
Planaria  live  upon  the  ground  and  are  found  sticking  to 
the  dead  damp  leaves. 

The  Nibong  Palm  (Areca  Tigillaria,  Jack)  so  often 
alluded  to  in  the  course  of  the  work  as  one  of  the 
principal  trees  which  furnish  posts,  rafters,  and  floorings 
of  the  houses  in  Borneo,  perhaps  demands  here  a  brief 
notice.  The  tree  is  surrounded  at  each  girdle  of  growth 
by  a  cincture  of  sharp  thorns,  which  are  more  numerous 
and  needle-shaped  as  we  approach  the  leaves ;  the  head 


426  THE  NIBONG  PALM. 

contains,  like  all  other  Palms,  a  soft  spike  about  the  hard- 
ness of  the  core  of  the  cabbage,  which  has  hence  induced 
seamen  and  others  to  christen  it  the  Cabbage-Palm,  and 
the  Spaniards  "Palma  brava."  It  is  certainly  a  most 
delicious  vegetable,  and  when  boiled  resembles  Asparagus 
or  Kale;  uncooked  in  its  raw  state,  it  furnishes  fictitious 
cucumber  and  an  excellent  salad.  The  tree  contains  an 
immense  quantity  of  useless  pithy  matter  or  newly-formed 
wood  of  the  interior,  and  it  is  therefore  split  into  four  or 
more  parts,  and  the  soft  parts  cut  away  leaving  only  the 
outer  rind  of  older  wood,  which  is  of  so  flinty  a  nature  as 
to  turn  the  edge  of  well-tempered  tools.  These  narrow 
slightly-curved  slabs  form  the  principal  flooring  of  all 
Malay  houses.  In  England  this  hard,  brittle,  and  beautiful 
wood  is  frequently  used  for  the  sticks  of  umbrellas ;  and 
it  is  capable  of  being  manufactured  into  very  elegant 
frames  for  pictures,  or  for  any  matters  not  requiring  a 
greater  breadth  than  twenty-two  inches  by  half  an  inch, 
or  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  bows  as 
well  as  arrows  of  the  Natives  of  New  Guinea  are  generally 
formed  from  this  wood. 

At  Gunung  Taboor,  I  first  saw  that  singular  commodity 
collected  by  the  Dyaks  called  vegetable-tallow,  which  is 
an  object  of  some  commercial  importance  among  the 
Natives  of  the  Indian  Archipelago.  It  is  a  concrete  oil 
obtained  from  the  expressed  boiled  fruit  of  a  species  of 
Bassia,  a  Sapotaceous  plant,  either  the  B.  longifolia  of 
Linnaeus  or  the  B.  butyracea  of  Roxburgh,  and  belong- 
ing to  the  same  genus  as  the  Butter-tree  described  by 
Mungo  Park.  It  was  brought  to  us  in  large  round 
flattened  cakes  of  the  consistence  and  colour  of  cheese, 


VEGETABLE-TALLOW.  427 

and  also  in  cylindrical  masses,  which  had  assumed  the 
form  of  the  bamboo  joints  into  which  it  had  been  poured 
when  in  a  liquid  state.  A  plant  which  grows  in  Java, 
the  Tetranthera  Roxburgliii  Nees,  also  has  a  fruit  which 
yields  a  kind  of  naturally-formed  vegetable-tallow,  out  of 
which  the  Chinese  manufacture  the  candles  with  which 
ships  are  sometimes  supplied  at  Singapore  and  Hong- 
Kong.  To  render  these  miserable  apologies  for  candles 
more  stable,  they  cover  them  over  with  a  thin  coating  of 
wax.  The  principal  advantage  of  the  vegetable-tallow  of 
Borneo  over  that  produced  from  animal  fat  is,  that  it  re- 
mains concrete  under  a  tropical  heat,  whereas  the  other 
becomes  too  soft  to  serve  any  useful  purpose. 

The  Natives  likewise  collect  aromatic  barks  of  which 
we  obtained  samples.  One  specimen  appeared  to  have  been 
obtained  from  the  Cinnamomum  Sintoc,  as  it  differs  from 
the  bark  of  C.  Culilawan,  in  having  a  flavour  likewise 
of  cloves.  The  specific  name  of  the  latter  plant  which 
yields  the  clove-bark  of  commerce,  is  derived  from  Kulit- 
lawan,  the  native  name  of  the  bark;  the  specific  name  of 
the  former  is  probably  taken  from  the  Javanese  name  for 
the  same  bark  "Sendok."  The  bark  generally  called 
cinnamon  in  Borneo,  is  from  a  species  of  Cassia;  the 
true  Cinnamon-tree  (C.  zeylanicum),  although  grown  in 
Java,  is  a  native  of  Ceylon. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  botanical  productions  of 
Borneo  is  the  Tephrosia  toxicaria,  common  at  Kuching 
and  Serambo,  the  roots  of  which  are  used  by  the  Malays 
for  the  purpose  of  stupifying  the  fish  of  the  rivers,  and 
which,  by  acting  on  the  nervous  system,  causes  them  to 
be  more  readily  speared  by  the  natives.  This  root  might 
serve  as  an  excellent  substitute  for  Digitalis. 


428  SINGULAR  MODE  OF  FISHING. 

The  Phyttanthm  virosus  is  used  in  some  parts  of  India 
for  the  purpose  of  intoxicating  fish,  and  in  Jamaica  they 
employ  the  root  of  the  Pisidia  Erythrina  for  the  same 
purpose.  At  Sooloo,  and  in  other  parts,  they  select  the 
fruits  of  the  Borassm  Gomutus ;  in  the  West  Indies,  the 
berries  of  Sapindus  saponaria,  pounded  and  thrown  into 
water,  are  used  with  a  similar  intention ;  and  in  Min- 
danao the  Barringtonia  speciosa  answers  the  same  end. 
Marsden,  in  his  history  of  Sumatra,  observes,  that  the 
natives  "  steep  the  root  of  a  certain  climbing  plant  called 
Tuba,  of  strong  narcotic  properties,  in  the  water  where 
the  fish  are  seen,  which  produces  such  an  effect  that  they 
become  intoxicated,  and  to  appearance  dead,  float  on  the 
surface  of  the  water,  and  are  taken  with  the  hand."  The 
Dyaks  are  very  dextrous  in  spearing  the  poor  stupified 
fish  which  are  under  the  influence  of  the  weed.  There 
is  another  very  singular  mode  of  capturing  the  finny 
tribes  in  Borneo.  Floating  ducks,  made  of  light  wood, 
have  a  hook,  properly  baited,  fastened  to  a  line  which 
hangs  from  the  under  surface.  A  man  in  a  small  canoe 
looks  after  the  ducks  at  a  distance,  and  when  he  sees  one 
begin  to  dive  and  plunge,  he  paddles  up  and  secures  the 
fish.  I  have  seen  dozens  of  these  dumb  ducks  floating 
down  the  rivers  with  the  stream.  Sir  George  Staunton 
says,  that  a  somewhat  similar  mode  of  fishing  is  practised 
in  China ;  and  La  Perouse,  speaking  of  the  Esquimaux, 
observes,  that  "  their  mode  of  angling  is  very  ingenious. 
Each  line  is  fastened  to  a  seal's  bladder,  and  set  adrift. 
One  canoe  has  twelve  or  fifteen  of  them.  When  a  fish  is 
caught,  the  canoe  rows  after  it."  Dixon,  in  his  Voyage, 
makes  a  similar  remark  regarding  these  people.  He  says, 
"  they  bait  their  hook  with  a  kind  of  fish  called  by  the 


INSECTS.  429 

sailors  '  squids/  and  having  sunk  it  to  the  bottom,  they 
fix  a  bladder  to  the  end  of  the  line,  as  a  buoy." 

Crawling  on  the  leaves  in  the  jungle  was  a  very  beauti- 
ful insect,  the  larva  of  a  species  of  Tesseratoma,  entirely  of 
a  delicate,  semi-transparent,  blood-red  colour,  with  a  flat- 
tened body,  and  head  furnished  with  a  stinging  proboscis, 
which  inflicts  a  somewhat  painful  wound.  At  Gunung 
Taboor,  I  procured  one  of  the  loveliest  species  of  Cassida 
I  have  seen  in  any  collection.  The  dark-green,  convex 
body  was  studded  with  round,  brilliant,  golden  spots, 
while  the  margin  was  transparent  horn  color,  and  reticu- 
lated like  a  leaf.  Among  other  rare  and  beautiful  insects, 
the  Lucanus  Tarandus  of  Thunberg  flew  at  dusk  into  the 
boat  in  which  I  was  sleeping.  It  is  a  large  stag-beetle, 
with  elongated  jaws  and  bronze  elytra,  shaded  with  gold 
and  red,  and  covered  all  over  with  a  velvety  down.  A 
singular  coal-black  Coreus  was  also  met  with,  covered 
with  golden  hairs. 

Returning  with  our  liberated  captives  from  Bulungan, 
after  having  examined  the  reef  on  which  the  "  Premier" 
was  wrecked,  and  where  we  obtained  some  interesting 
crustaceous  and  molluscous  animals,  we  touched  at  Lee- 
geetan,  on  the  coast  of  Borneo,  for  the  purpose  of  watering 
the  ship,  at  which  place  I  procured  many  rare  insects,  and 
had  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of  the  wildest 
woodland  scenery  in  Borneo.  In  the  course  of  a  little 
trip  at  this  port,  I  fell  in  with  a  scene  so  singular,  that  I 
will  endeavour  to  describe  it. 

On  our  right  was  a  vast,  sandy  flat  left  by  the  retiring 
tide,  where  several  stout-limbed  oyster-catchers  were 
screaming  and  running  rapidly  along,  like  small  ostriches, 


430  SCENERY. 

while  beyond  was  the  ocean,  hushed  into  a  perfect  calm. 
On  our  left  extended  the  huge  forest  trees,  for  miles 
fringing  "  the  beached  margent  of  the  sea."  Entering  a 
thicket,  we  threaded  the  woody  maze  a  little  distance, 
and  came  suddenly  upon  a  large  mangrove  swamp,  where 
all  the  trees  had,  from  some  cause  unknown  to  us, 
perished,  and  remained,  some  erect  like  huge,  blackened 
skeletons  arising  from  an  oozy  bed ;  and  others  prostrate, 
and  lying  in  vast  heaps,  forming  fit  hiding  places  for  the 
huge  Monitors  and  broad-bellied  Lace-lizards  that  we 
soon  perceived  abounded  here.  The  entire  surface  of  the 
hardened  mud,  in  other  parts,  was  covered  with  CcritMum 
palustre  and  the  large  black  C.  telescopium,  while  here  and 
there  fragments  of  those  bivalve  Mollusks,  that  love  the 
brackish  water,  strewed  the  soil. 

On  the  margin  of  this  dried-up  Lagoon,  were  heaps  of 
old  decayed  and  moss-grown  trunks,  speckled  with  lichens 
and  sprouting  with  fungi,  rotting  piecemeal  in  the  black 
and  slimy  mud.  Thousands  of  Gelasimi  and  other  land- 
loving  crustaceans,  bustled  about  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  rushing  into  holes  with  the  greatest  trepidation, 
but  nevertheless  snapping,  as  they  retreated,  their  huge 
single  foot-claw,  and  thrusting  it  menacingly  forth,  when 
they  reached  the  aperture  of  their  burrow.  In  many  parts 
of  the  yielding  surface,  well-beaten  tracks  were  formed 
by  our  dingy  lacertine  friends,  the  giant  Hydrosauri; 
and  in  other  places,  the  soil  was  stamped  with  the  foot- 
marks of  deer,  and  grooved  by  the  snouts  of  wild  boars. 
The  forest  beyond  was  perfectly  silent,  and,  sitting  on 
one  of  the  tall  and  blasted  trees,  was  a  solitary  white 
heron,  himself  as  motionless  and  silent  as  the  rest  of  nature. 


POISONOUS  PLANTS   A.ND  SCENTED  BEETLE.          431 

While  cutting  wood  in  the  forest  not  far  from  the 
watering  place,  our  seamen  and  carpenters  suffered  very 
considerably  from  the  virulent  acrid  sap  of  the  Exccecaria 
Agallocha,  or  a  plant  closely  allied  to  it,  which  produced 
violent  itching  and  inflammation  of  the  face,  hands,  and 
wherever  it  came  in  contact.  I  remember,  that  near  the 
Morotabas  entrance  of  the  Sarawak  river,  the  party  sent 
on  shore  to  cut  wood,  were  also  much  annoyed  by  the 
acrid  juice  of  a  plant  with  a  large,  brownish,  spherical 
berry,  and  smooth  shining  leaves.  Not  being  then  in 
flower,  it  was  difficult  to  say  to  what  genus  it  belonged, 
but  most  probably  it  was  the  Stagmaria  verniciflua  of  Dr. 
Jack.  Besides  the  chance  of  scorpion  and  snake-bites, 
and  the  certainty  of  being  punished  by  innumerable  mus- 
quitoes,  a  large  species  of  Tabanus  is  very  annoying  to  the 
naturalist  in  these  forests,  alighting  on  the  exposed  parts 
of  the  body,  and  producing  a  sharp  bite;  but  the  pain 
however  is  momentary,  and  not  so  poisonous  as  that  of 
the  mosquito. 

Clinging  to  the  flower-balls  of  a  delicate-leaved  Mimosa, 
were  numbers  of  splendid  bronze-green  beetles,  of  the 
genus  Aromia,  which  emitted  such  a  powerful  scent  of 
attar-of-roses  around,  as  to  impregnate  the  air  for  some 
little  distance.  That  showy  looking  insect  Purpuricenus 
(Eurycephalus)  maxillosusQliv.,  or  a  closely  allied  species, 
with  black  and  red  velvety  elytra,  was  found  clinging  to 
the  bark  of  trees ;  and,  alighting  on  the  leaves  in  sunny 
spots,  on  the  slightest  alarm  taking  flight  and  soaring 
high  above  the  trees,  was  a  splendid  TJierates,  a  beetle  of 
the  family  of  Cicindelidtf,  remarkable  for  then*  powers  of 
volitation.  The  species  I  obtained  had  large  strong  jaws, 


432  REMARKABLE  INSECTS. 

enormous  eyes,  a  wide  head,  beautiful  dark  burnished- 
bronze  elytra,  and  orange  legs  and  mandibles.    One  spe- 
cimen I  captured,  had  just  regaled  himself  with  a  fly,  which 
I  allowed  him  to  eat  up,  before  I  attempted  to  make  him 
a  prisoner.     He  held  the  unfortunate  dipterous  insect, 
which  was  of  the  size  of  an  (Estrus,  firmly  with  the  dilated 
tarsi  of  the  fore  feet,  had  cut  off  the  head  with  his  power- 
ful mandibles,  and  was  busily  intent  in  consuming  the 
flesh  of  the  inside  of  the  thorax,  shaking  his  prey  occa- 
sionally  like   a   tiger,   which   these    Cicindelidas    most 
assuredly  represent  in  the  insect-world.     Also,  on  the 
leaves,  but  totally  unlike  its  volatile  neighbour  the  The- 
rates,  was  a  species  of  Cassida,  a  pretty  tortoise-shaped 
beetle,  with  the   elytra   margined  with  bright   golden 
yellow,  four  dark  blue  spots  at  the  angles,  and  the  central 
part  of  the  back  of  a  brown  bronze,  with  deep  red  mark- 
ings.    A  most  extraordinary -looking  hymenopterous  in- 
sect, belonging  to  the  genus  Stephanus,  with  a  red  head, 
a  black  body  very  much  elongated,  light  brown,  semi- 
opaque  wings,  enormous  hind  legs,  and  three  long  slender 
stylets  at  the  end  of  the  tail,  hovered  steadily  around  the 
trunks  where  the  sunbeams  penetrated,  and  seemed  to 
delight  to  crawl  up  and  down  the  bark.     During  flight 
it  has  a  very  remarkable  appearance,  reminding  one  some- 
what of  a  heron  on  the  wing,  with  its  long  legs  awkwardly 
stretched  out  behind.     In  the  fresh-water  pools  I  obtained 
specimens  of  a  large  water-scorpion,  near  Nepa  rubra, 
more  than  two  inches  in  length,  with  a  brown  body,  and 
blackish  elytra.     Its  sting,  the  powers  of  which  I  unfor- 
tunately experienced,  is  much  more  severe  than  that  of 
the  Nepa  cinerea  we  find  in  the  ponds  of  Europe.    A  new 


BIRBS  OF  BORNEO.  433 

species  of  Gerris,  with  a  dull  red  thorax  margined  with 
black,  and  a  dark  line  down  the  centre,  with  opaque  black 
wings,  was  running,  in  its  peculiar  jerking  manner,  on 
the  surface  of  the  stagnant  water.  I  was  pleased  to  find 
these  aquatic  insects,  as  both  water  beetles  and  water 
lizards  appear  to  be  very  scarce  in  Borneo,  if  we  except 
the  Hydrosauri,  which  are  not  entirely  aquatic.  I  never 
came  across,  during  the  whole  course  of  my  wanderings, 
with  a  single  species  of  Salamandra  or  Triton,  or  among 
insects  with  a  Hydrous  or  Dyticus. 

The  woods  of  Leegeetan  afford  the  large  Hornbill 
(Buceros  Rhinoceros)  ;  a  Kingfisher  of  considerable  size 
and  splendid  colouring  (a  species  of  Dacelo,}  frequents 
the  river  brinks.  A  beautiful  Cypselus,  with  a  rich  green 
metallic  lustre  along  the  back,  soars  high  above  the  forest 
trees ;  while  on  the  coast  the  Hirundo  esculenta  hovers 
incessantly  to  and  fro,  uttering  its  sharp  and  peculiar  cry. 
A  grey  Heron  perches  on  the  lower  boughs  of  the  trees, 
and  delights  to  fish  in  the  ponds,  feeding  on  crabs  and 
frogs.  A  small  sized  Wood-pecker,  and  a  large  red-headed 
species  with  black  wings  and  back,  arid  a  white  belly, 
climbs  up  and  down  the  forest  stems  in  sequestered 
places.  A  black  coloured  bird,  with  two  long  feathers  in 
the  tail,  skips  rarely  in  the  trees  from  spray  to  spray.  A 
Cuculus,  with  a  greenish-black  back ;  and  a  small  bird, 
with  the  feathers  of  the  back  and  rump  pilose  and  much 
prolonged,  probably  a  species  of  Chaunonotus,  are  also 
found  in  the  woods.  In  other  parts  of  Borneo,  I  have 
met  with  a  Tody  with  a  red  and  yellow  head,  and 
another  species  with  a  black  and  yellow  back,  and  salmon- 
coloured  breast ;  a  Thrush  with  a  yellow  back  and  black 
VOL.  ir.  2  F 


434  ORIENTAL  PIGEONS. 

head,  that  utters  a  very  sweet  note  among  the  Bamboo 
groves  and  thickets;  a  handsome  Pigeon,  with  a  green 
back  and  belly,  and  wings  of  reddish  brown ;  a  black 
Thrush,  with  a  white  abdomen ;  and  a  splendid  ultra- 
marine blue  bird,  with  the  neck,  and  belly  black ;    a 
land  Rail,  prettily  marked ;  a  white-headed  Falcon  with 
reddish  brown  wings;    a  large  horned  Owl,  and  the 
minute  Passerine  species;    the  Griffin  with  a  Falcon's 
beak,  is  also  sometimes  met  with ;  and  I  have  seen  the 
Crowned  Eagle,  the  Cayenne  Barbett,  and   species  of 
Lanius,  Bubutus,  Garulaa;,  and  Calorhamphus.     The  list 
might  easily  be  lengthened,  were  it  at  all  necessary  in  a 
short  popular  notice  like  this  ;  but  long  dry  lists  of  orni- 
thological nomenclature  would  not  be  likely  to  interest 
the  general  reader.     I  may  however  offer  a  few  words  on 
the  famous  swallow  that  supplies  the  Chinese  markets 
with  nests,  and  pay  a  passing  tribute  to  the  extreme 
beauty  of  the  Pigeons  of  this  part  of  the  world.     Many 
of  these  belonging  to  the  genus  Vinago,  are  covered  with 
feathers  of  rich  metallic  hues ;  in  fact,  the  oriental  Pigeons 
are  the  most  beautiful  creatures  imaginable.     Their  air  is 
full  of  softness,  and  their  eyes  of  gentleness ;  their  motions 
are  all  elegance,  and  their  forms  of  the  most  graceful  pro- 
portions.    The  turn  of  the  neck  and  the  carriage  of  the 
head  are  fraught  with  harmony;   and  the  plaintive  cooings 
of  their  voices,  issuing  from  the  dead  solitudes  of  sombre 
woods,   though   somewhat    mournful    is   soothing    and 
agreeable    to    the     ear.      Playful    in    their    motions, 
sportive  in  their  caresses,  they  seem   formed   for   love 
and   dalliance  in  the  dense  forests  they  animate    and 
adorn.      The   cooing  of  these  birds   in    the    tropics  is 


EDIBLE  SWALLOWS'-NESTS.  435 

somewhat  different  in  sound  from  that  of  the  Wood- 
pigeon. 

About  the  rocky  parts  of  the  coast  of  Borneo,  the 
Hirundo  esculenta  skims  backwards  and  forwards  all  day 
long,  uttering  its  little  cheerful  chirp  as  it  eagerly  pursues 
its  insect  prey.  I  have  taken  the  nests  in  nearly  every 
state  from  the  sides  of  shallow  caves,  where  they  adhere 
in  numbers  to  the  walls,  like  so  many  watch-pockets. 
The  eggs  are  white,  with  a  slight  pinkish  tinge,  and  are 
generally  two  in  number.  The  nests  are  either  white, 
red,  or  black,  and  the  natives  maintain  that  these  are 
built  by  three  distinct  species,  with  a  white,  red,  and 
black  breast,  but  this  is  erroneous.  The  Malays  assert 
frequently,  moreover,  that  the  nests  are  formed  from  the 
bodies  of  certain  sea-snakes,  but  there  is  no  doubt  that 
"agal-agal,"  a  marine  cellular  plant,  is  the  material 
employed.  The  Chinese  lanterns  are  made  of  netted 
thread,  smeared  over  with  gum,  produced  by  boiling  down 
this  same  plant,  which,  when  dry,  forms  a  firm,  pellucid, 
and  elastic  substitute  for  horn  or  glass.  Other  species  of 
Swallows,  besides  the  Hirundo  esculenta,  employ  the  same 
glutinous  material  in  the  construction  of  their  nest ;  but 
it  is  always  mixed  up  with  grass  and  matted  feathers,  so 
as  to  render  the  nests  perfectly  useless  in  a  commercial 
point  of  view. 

Collecting  the  nests  is  often  a  very  perilous  operation, 
as  may  be  seen  on  reading  the  following  extract  from 
Crawfurd's  History  of  the  Indian  Archipelago.  He  is 
describing  one  of  the  most  productive  caves  in  Java,  those 
of  Karang-bolang,  on  the  south  coast  of  the  island  :— 
"  Here  the  caves  are  only  to  be  approached  by  a  perpen- 

2  p2 


436  HABITS  OF  CRABS. 

dicular  descent  of  many  hundred  feet,  by  ladders  of 
bamboo  and  rattan,  over  a  sea  rolling  violently  against 
the  rocks.  When  the  mouth  of  the  cavern  is  attained, 
the  perilous  office  of  taking  the  nests  must  often  be  per- 
formed with  torch-light,  by  penetrating  into  recesses  of 
the  rock,  when  the  slightest  trip  would  be  instantly  fatal 
to  the  adventurers,  who  see  nothing  below  them  but  the 
turbulent  surf  making  its  way  into  the  chasms  of  the 
rock."* 

Before  taking  leave  of  this  part  of  Borneo,  I  must  make 
a  few  observations  on  the  habits  of  certain  crustaceans.  On 
tropical  mudflats,  I  was  always  very  much  amused  at  the 
multitudes  of  Crabs  that  take  their  pastime  there, — those 
active,  predatory,  rapacious  busy-bodies,  presenting  forms 
so  anomalous,  manners  so  strange,  and  motions  so  gro- 
tesque. As  soon  as  the  water  recedes  from  the  shore  on 
the  ebbing  of  the  tide,  and  the  large  firm  mudflats  are 
left  exposed,  myriads  of  crustaceans  of  every  form  and 
colour  issue  from  their  various  holes  and  hiding-places,  to 
enjoy  the  heat,  to  forage  for  their  food,  and  to  propagate 
their  kind.  The  males  of  many  species,  after  looking 
cautiously  about  them,  stalk  a  few  paces  with  their  huge 
single  pincers  raised  in  the  air,  which  they  snap  frequently 
together,  producing  a  slight  clicking  sound,  then  rushing 
eagerly  towards  their  females,  they  seem  to  embrace  with 
their  arms  their  smaller  and  more  dingy  paramours.  The 
salute  is  very  brief,  and  is  followed  by  the  swift  retreat  of 
the  lady-crabs  into  their  different  habitations.  These 
belong  chiefly  to  the  burrowing  Macrophtlialmi.  Many 
of  the  genera  Sesarma,  Gonoplax,  and  Grapsus,  are  how- 

*  Vol.  iii.,  p.  433. 


HABITS  OF  CRABS.  437 

ever  perceived  equally  well  occupied.  Creeping  stealthily 
upon  these  are  larger  and  more  formidable  Crabs, 
which  come  with  sidelong  steps  towards  their  unwary 
neighbours,  chase,  capture,  tear,  and  finally  consume 
them.  Others  are  content  to  forego  their  amorous 
dalliance,  and  help  themselves  to  worms  and  little 
shell-fish,  feeding  alternately  first  with  one  hand  and 
then  with  the  other.  Many  again  lie  languidly  along 
the  mud,  seeming  very  much  to  enjoy  the  genial  rays 
of  the  sun  in  listless  indolence ;  while  others  are  watch- 
ful at  the  mouths  of  holes,  ready  to  pounce  upon 
the  Jumping-fish  and  Squillse  that  swarm  about  the 
mud,  and  which  speedily  disappear  within  their  rapa- 
cious jaws. 

A  very  splendid  species  of  Cardisoma,  which  I  have 
named  C.  Aspasia,  inhabits  the  steep  muddy  banks  at  the 
mouths  of  the  rivers  near  this  part  of  the  coast,  where  it 
forms  deep  cylindrical  burrows.  It  is  excessively  wary, 
retreating  on  the  slightest  noise  into  its  subterranean 
domicile,  from  whence  it  is  not  easily  dislodged.  It 
appears  to  be  less  shy,  however,  as  the  evening  advances, 
and  is  probably  nocturnal  in  its  habits,  like  some  of  the 
species  of  Ocypode.  This  lovely  crustacean,  nearly  as 
large  as  the  adult  edible  crab,  has  a  purple  shell  mar- 
gined behind  with  buff,  and  feet  and  claws  of  a  deli- 
cate lilac. 

The  muddy  banks  of  the  Batang-Lupar,  Sarawak, 
and  many  other  rivers  of  Borneo,  are  covered  at  low  water 
by  numerous  handsome  species  of  Gelasimus,  among  the 
number  of  which  is  an  undescribed  species  which  I  have 
named  G.  rwrulcns,  from  the  beautiful  blue  colour  of  its 


438  BLUE  CRAB. 

carapace.  I  have  seen  the  black  mud  in  many  parts 
assume  quite  a  brilliant  blue  tinge  during  the  heat  of  the 
day,  at  low  water,  when  these  crustaceans  come  forth 
to  feed. 


439 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

LOO-CHOO— KOBEA— JAPAN. 

Loo-Ckoo — Mandarins — Visit  a  Missionary — Gardens  of  the  Temples-— 
— Burial-ground  —  Tombs  —  Loo-Chooan  females  —  Sheudi,  the 
capital  —  Palace  of  the  Viceroy  —  State  of  religion  —  Acquainted 
with  Arms  — Language  — Money  — Medicine  — Korea  — Physical 
appearance  of  the  Natives — Costume — Moral  Character — Arms — 
Boats  —  Punishments  —  An  Anecdote  — Beacon-fires  — Island  of 
Q-uelpart  —  Plants  —  Stone  Images  —  Vegetation  —  Scenery — 
Birds — Fishes — Insects — Habits  of  Spiders — Molluscous  Animals 
— Radiata  — Sponges  — Sama-Sana  — Scenery  — Vegetation — In- 
sects — An  Earthquake  — Koumi  —  Scenery  —  Birds  — Beetles — 
Grasshoppers  —  Japan  —  Physical  appearance  of  the  Japanese — 
Costume — -Weapons — Shells — Volcanic  Archipelago— Inhabitants. 

ON  the  22nd  of  August,  1845,  in  company  with  Mr. 
Corbett,  of  the  Royalist,  I  landed  at  some  distance  from 
our  anchorage  in  Napa-Kiang  harbour,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  village  of  Po-tsang,  (or  Pot-soong,  as  Beechey  and 
others  write  it,)  a  small  straggling  hamlet  full  of  temples, 
tombs,  banyan  trees,  and  salt-pans,  with  a  neat,  well- 
built  little  bridge,  and  a  very  long  causeway.  We  were 
received  on  the  beach  by  a  large  concourse  of  the 
natives,  and  as  soon  as  we  had  disembarked,  a  venerable 
and  good-natured  mandarin  of  the  second  class,  took  us 
by  the  hand,  and  kindly  led  us  towards  the  village.  He 
spoke  to  us  in  broken  English,  asking  us  how  we  did ; 


440  GARDENS  01'  THE  TEMPLES. 

what  were  our  ages,  &c.  We  made  him  understand  that 
we  wished  to  proceed  to  the  residence  of  a  French  Mis- 
sionary, who  was  living  some  little  distance  off,  in  one  of 
the  Joss-houses,  occupied  by  the  people  of  the  Alceste  at 
a  former  period.  He  comprehended  in  a  moment,  and 
accordingly  most  politely  made  us  a  bow,  and  led  the 
way.  Our  road  lay  through  very  pleasant  woods,  where 
the  Bamboo  and  Acacia,  the  Areca,  Banyan  and  Cycas 
trees,  formed  an  agreeable  shade.  In  the  temple,  occu- 
pied by  the  Missionary,  were  the  usual  emblems  of  the 
Roman-Catholic  Church,  and  walking  about  the  ground, 
were  numerous  Bonzes,  or  priests  of  Buddha,  apparently 
very  poor  and  low  in  the  grade  of  society.  One  old  gen- 
tleman seemed  very  much  disgusted  with  our  Catholic 
friend,  pointing  with  scorn  at  the  parade  of  paintings  and 
crucifixes  made  by  the  good  Father.  The  coadjutor  in 
the  labour  of  this  French  gentleman,  was  a  young  Chinese, 
educated  at  the  Jesuit  College  at  Penang,  who,  as  the 
Padre  assured  us,  could  converse  well  in  Latin,  Portu- 
guese, French,  Chinese,  and  Cochin-Chinese.  The  gar- 
dens of  these  temples  are  neatly  and  tastefully  laid  out, 
and  among  the  flowers  in  the  parterres  I  noticed  the 
beautiful  crimson  blossoms  of  the  Hibiscus  Eosa-Sinensis, 
with  the  petals  of  which  the  Chinese  black  their  shoes  ; 
the  Prince's  feathers  (Amaranthus  caudatus,)  the  Gom- 
phrena  globosa,  and  some  very  fine  Cockscombs  (Celosia 
coccinea,}  their  thousands  of  brilliant  shining  bracts 
glittering  in  the  sun.  These  gardens  and  temples, 
occupied  by  the  officers  and  crew  of  the  Alceste,  are 
rendered  doubly  interesting  by  the  graphic  and  pleasing 
accounts  of  Hall  and  M'Leod.  They  are  quiet,  lonely, 


LOO-CHOOAN  WOMEN.  441 

and  secluded,  and  ornamented  with  beautiful  walks  and 
numerous  trees.  We  rambled  on  among  the  tombs  of  the 
Loo-Chooans,  which  form  one  vast  cemetery  or  city  of  the 
dead,  and  which  from  our  anchorage,  appeared  as  large  and 
conspicuous  as  the  living  city  of  Napa.  The  tombs  are 
all  well-preserved,  nicely  chunammed,  and  of  a  dazzling 
whiteness.  The  tornbs  of  strangers,  however,  are  of  an 
oblong  shape,  not  formed  like  a  horse-shoe  as  are  those 
of  the  natives,  and  are  embowered  in  trees  ;  among  them 
I  observed  the  grave  of  the  man  who  died  belonging  to 
the  Alceste.  Their  respect  for  the  dead  certainly  ap- 
pears to  be  very  great,  and  I  could  not  help  noticing  the 
solemn  demeanour  of  the  old  Chief  as  he  pointed  out  to 
us  the  grave  of  our  countryman.  Having  passed  through 
an  archway,  we  came  suddenly  upon  a  square  in  which 
were  congregated  many  hundred  women,  each  with  a 
small  basket,  bargaining  for  rice  and  other  necessaries, 
and  laughing,  chattering,  and  cheapening  in  the  most 
discordant  and  emphatic  manner.  It  was  market-day 
among  the  good  people  of  Po-tsang.  All  these  lively  and 
energetic  females  belonged  to  the  lower  orders,  and  re- 
joiced in  countenances  by  no  means  attractive;  the  old 
hags,  on  the  contrary,  were  about  the  most  hideous  objects 
I  have  seen  in  the  course  of  my  travels.  An  occasional 
exception  to  this  ungracious  and  not-at-all-gallant  picture, 
might  be  found  in  the  person  of  a  young  girl  or  mar- 
riageable maiden,  and  the  little  brown  babies  were 
decidedly  very  funny.  Proceeding  on  our  walk,  we 
arrived  at  the  summit  of  a  hill,  from  which  elevated  posi- 
tion we  obtained  an  excellent  view  of  Sheudi  or  Shui,  the 
extensive  and  populous  capital  of  the  Great-Loo-Choo. 


442  IDOLS. 

It  is  very  delightfully  situated  in  the  bosom  of  a  wooded 
and  verdant  valley,  and  appears  to  be  well  and  regularly 
built.  At  some  little  distance  from  the  city,  we  noticed 
the  Prince's  palace,  a  large  square  building  surrounded 
by  a  high  wall.  We  were  informed  that  the  Prince,  or 
probably  Viceroy  appointed  by  the  Japanese,  is  quite  a 
prisoner  in  this  royal  abode,  never  being  allowed  to  travel 
beyond  the  precincts  of  his  enchanted  castle.  Near 
Abbey  Point,  in  the  rude  cavernous  recess  of  a  rock,  we 
saw  the  image  of  the  Goddess  "  Kwan-yan,"  called  by 
Beechey,  the  Goddess  of  Mercy,  and  of  which  he  has 
given  a  representation  in  his  work.  The  natives  did  not 
seem,  however,  to  evince  much  awe  or  reverence  as  they 
passed  this  favourite  deity ;  indeed  Gutzlaff  observes  that 
"they  disavow  practical  idolatry  because  their  reason  dis- 
approves the  theory;  yet  they  do  in  fact  persevere  in  their 
unreasonable  worship."  There  are  various  other  idols  in 
other  parts  of  the  island,  some  formed  of  wood,  and  many 
carved  out  of  stone.  La  Perouse,  who  visited  these 
people,  observes,  speaking  of  the  inhabitants  of  Kumi, 
that  "each  had  a  dagger,  the  hilt  of  which  was  gold." 
Beechey  has  a  variety  of  arguments  to  prove  they  were 
formerly  acquainted  with  the  use  of  arms,  and,  in  con- 
nexion with  the  same  question,  Gutzlaff  observes:  "Upon 
inquiring,  we  found  that  they  had  among  them  the  same 
severe  punishment  as  at  Korea ;  that  they  possessed  arms 
likewise,  but  are  averse  to  use  them."  Both  Hall  and 
M'Leod,  on  the  other  hand,  aver  that  these  people  are 
totally  unacquainted  with  the  use  of  arms.  Thinking  to 
throw  a  little  light  on  the  subject,  I  enquired  casually  of 
A- sung,  our  Chinese  interpreter,  who  was  much  among 


LANGUAGE.  443 

them,  what  they  would  do  if  they  were  attacked  by  an 
enemy,  when  he  informed  me  that  they  had  large  stores 
of  arms  which  he  had  seen,  shields,  spears,  and  bows  and 
arrows,  but  that  they  wish  to  keep  the  knowledge  of  their 
existence  in  the  island,  a  secret,  even  from  their  own 
people.  Beechey  remarks,  that  "the  inhabitants  of  Loo- 
Choo  have  no  written  character  in  use,  which  can 
properly  be  called  their  own,  but  that  they  express  them- 
selves in  that  which  is  strictly  Chinese."  They  have  not 
preserved,  even  if  they  ever  possessed  in  their  early  state, 
any  original  written  language,  but  they  have  adopted  that 
of  Japan.  Both  the  French  Missionary  and  A-sung,  our 
interpreter,  assured  me  that  it  was  strictly  Japanese.  The 
Loo-Chooans,  certainly  must  originally  have  been  a  colony 
from  Japan,  although  in  the  present  day  they  disclaim  all 
connexion  or  acquaintance  with  that  empire.  In  a  con- 
versation with  Gutzlaff,  they  even  affirmed  that  three 
Junks  from  Satsuma  in  Japan  had  been  driven  hither  by 
stress  of  weather.  During  our  visit,  there  were  numerous 
Japanese  vessels  lying  in  the  harbour,  no  doubt  tribute 
Junks.  The  Catholic  Priest  informed  me  that  he  had 
not  succeeded  in  making  a  single  convert,  and  though  his 
tenets  were  smiled  at  as  being  too  absurd  for  credence, 
yet  he  was  treated  with  the  greatest  respect,  mingled, 
however,  with  a  little  jealousy.  The  higher  classes  are 
probably  very  well  contented  with  the  precepts  of  Confu- 
cius, and  the  lower  with  the  doctrines  of  Buddha,  both 
systems  having  numerous  proselytes  among  the  Loo- 
Chooans.  Many,  however,  even  among  the  most  wealthy 
and  intelligent,  are  free-thinkers,  and  seem  to  trouble 
themselves  very  little  about  superstition  in  any  form. 


444  THE  KOREANS. 

They  are  said  to  be  unacquainted  with  the  use  of  money, 
though  they  received  dollars  in  payment  for  a  horse,  pigs, 
and  several  descriptions  of  provisions,  from  the  Captain 
and  some  of  the  officers  of  our  ship;  and  Gutzlaff  says, 
that  "the  Chinese  tael  and  cash  are  current  among  them, 
but  very  scarce."  While  staying  here,  the  most  celebrated 
native  doctor  of  Napa  treated  A-sung  for  rheumatic  pains, 
with  hot  cataplasms,  made  of  the  recent  aromatic  leaves 
of  the  Sansjo  (Xanthoxylon  piper  itum}  and,  as  he  informed 
me,  with  considerable  benefit.  The  Ginseng  (Panax 
quinquefoliuni)  is  held  in  as  much  repute  here  as  it  is  in 
China. 

During  this  year,  the  Samarang  was  engaged  in  sur- 
veying the  large  island  of  Quelpart,  and  the  numerous 
group  of  smaller  islands  constituting  the  Korean  Archi- 
pelago ;  and  as  our  opportunities  of  examining  some  of 
the  more  interesting  ethnographical  peculiarities  of  the 
singular  people  inhabiting  this  little-known  region  of  the 
globe  were  rather  numerous,  I  shall  here  offer  a  slight 
sketch  of  those  manners  and  customs,  which,  at  the  time, 
were  regarded  by  me  as  worthy  of  note,  and  as  such  com- 
mitted to  paper  for  the  amusement  of  friends  at  home. 

The  Koorai  or  Koreans  are  said  to  have  come  originally 
from  a  country  to  the  northward  of  Pe-tche-li,  and  al- 
though now  forming  a  separate  nation,  governed  by  a 
king,  they  are,  in  a  measure,  tributary  to  China,  as  before 
the  conquest  of  Korea  by  the  Chinese,  they  were  the 
subjects  of  the  Japanese  empire.  In  personal  appearance, 
they  resemble  the  natives  of  Siberia  and  Tartary.  Like 
most  Mongolians  they  have  a  tawny  skin,  prominent 
cheek-bones,  some  obliquity  of  the  eyes  ;  a  rather  promi- 


PHYSICAL  APPEARANCE.  445 

nent  nose,  thick  at  its  base,  and  wide  at  the  nostrils ; 
strong,  well-developed  jaws,  and  long,  lank,  straight,  black 
hair ;  but  like  some  tribes  of  northern  Asia,  their  beard 
is  tolerably  thick,  and  their  eye-brows  bushy.  Their 
physiognomy  is  less  effeminate  than  that  of  southern 
races,  their  average  stature  being  greater,  their  bearing 
bolder,  their  Tartar-like  features  more  prominent  and 
striking,  and  their  beards  and  moustaches  being  frequently 
long  and  flowing.  One  of  the  most  striking  peculiarities 
which  all  who  have  seen  them  have  noticed,  is  the  method 
of  confining  the  hair  of  the  head  in  a  delicate  network, 
beautifully  formed  of  a  fine  material  resembling  Coir,  and 
of  a  glossy  black  colour.  The  hair  being  all  drawn  up- 
wards towards  the  crown  of  the  head,  is  tied  at  the 
summit  in  a  neat  and  rather  graceful  topknot,  without 
the  help  however  of  pins,  as  at  Loo-Choo  and  the 
Mei'a-co-shimahs.  The  young  unmarried  men  and  boys, 
however,  have  the  hair  parted  in  the  middle,  gathered 
behind,  and  descending  in  two  long  plaited  tails,  that  hang 
down  the  back  somewhat  in  the  fashion  of  those  of  the 
sons  of  Han.  Frequently  a  white  band  of  bark  or  leaf 
is  worn  across  the  forehead,  to  restrain  the  loose  and 
straggling  hairs. 

Their  costume,  though  formed  of  a  uniform  peculiar 
to  China,  Japan,  and  all  this  part  of  the  world,  varies 
considerably  from  all  other  nations  in  unessential  details. 
The  Mandarins,  or  chiefs  of  the  better  class,  wear  long 
gowns  or  mantles,  with  loose  hanging  sleeves,  having  red 
or  green  cuffs.  These  robes  are  often  of  silk  stuff,  and 
have  a  very  pleasing  and  picturesque  appearance.  Their 
pantaloons  hang  in  a  rather  loose  bag  below  the  knee, 


446  COSTUME. 

their  gaiters  or  socks  are  of  white  linen  cloth,  and  their 
neat  leathern  shoes  are  very  much  pointed  and  turned  up 
at  the  toes.  Their  hats  are  of  enormous  size,  with  very 
broad  brims,  and  are  of  a  slight  and  slender  texture,  being 
ingeniously  made  of  a  net- work  of  bamboo,  stained  black. 
The  crown  is  very  peculiar,  high,  and  conical,  and  two 
or  three  peacock's  feathers  appended  to  a  curved  ivory 
ball  on  the  pointed  apex,  hang  gracefully  over  the  capa- 
cious brim.  The  hats  of  the  Mandarins  are  usually  fur- 
nished with  strings  of  large  amber  beads,  to  fasten  them 
under  the  chin.  An  under  tunic  of  white,  and  a  broad 
silken  sash,  usually  complete  the  dress  of  these  grandees. 
They  generally  carry,  moreover,  a  small  piece  of  black 
bamboo,  with  a  coloured  riband  twisted  spirally  round  it, 
which  is  their  wand  of  office,  and  on  which  their  rank  is 
written.  The  soldiers  wear  a  plaited  string  from  the 
crown  of  their  hats,  with  a  quantity  of  red  horse-hair 
depending  from  it  at  the  hind  part  of  the  brim.  In 
winter  time,  some  of  the  lower  orders  wear  huge  fur 
caps,  made  of  wolf  or  lynx  skin  ;  and  the  heads  of  others 
are  covered  with  enormous  brown  or  black  sombreros, 
fashioned  from  a  kind  of  felt,  while  many  again  affect 
huge  cone-shaped  hats,  covered  with  painted  oiled  paper. 
Serfs  and  husbandmen  are  very  loosely  clad,  and  go  about 
with  the  legs  and  fore-arms  bare,  and  wear  grass  sandles 
on  their  feet.  Both  men  and  boys  have  a  habit  of  carry- 
ing long  staves,  which  gives  them  an  appearance,  when 
seen  at  a  distance,  of  being  armed  with  spears.  The 
females  we  saw  were  very  ugly,  very  dirty,  and  much 
more  degraded  in  appearance  than  the  men. 

The  natives  of  Korea,  or  more  properly  of  Chaou-Seen, 


MORAL  CHARACTER.  447 

are  but  little  advanced  in  civilization,  owing  doubtless  to 
the  repugnance  they  have  to  hold  any  intercourse  with 
other  nations,  not  even  their  neighbours,  the  Chinese, 
being  permitted  to   settle  in  their  territory,  and  their 
trade  with  that  country  and  with  Japan  and   Tartary 
is   exceedingly  limited.      They   invariably   repulsed   us 
in  the  same  spirit  on  our  attempting  to  invade  the  sanc- 
tity of  their  towns  and  villages,  not  even  allowing  us 
to  enter  within  the  walls    of  their   cities.      With  the 
same  exclusive  feeling  and  jealous  alarm  of  foreigners, 
they  also  evinced  a  great  objection  to  receive  anything 
from  us  as  presents.     During  our  surveying  duties,  where 
it  was  indispensably  necessary  to  land  and  erect  marks, 
they  frequently  showed  symptoms  of  hostility,  and  when 
not  opposed  in  a  determined  manner,  were  inclined  to 
assume  a  hectoring  demeanour,  threatening  and  com- 
manding us  to  retreat;  but  we  always  found  that  their 
courage  consisted  chiefly  in  a  system  of  intimidation. 
They   are,  however,  very  good-humoured,  and  seem  to 
enjoy  anything  like  a  joke  exceedingly.     All  appear  to  be 
passionately  fond  of  spirituous  liquors,  nor  can  I  say  much 
for  their  morality  of  conduct.     They  are  great  smokers, 
carrying  continually  in  their  hands  a  long-stemmed  pipe, 
with  a  diminutive  brass  bowl,  which  they  fill  and  empty 
at  brief  intervals.* 

*  The  pipes  of  the  Indo-Chinese  races,  including  the  Tartars,  Chi- 
nese, Koreans,  and  Japanese,  are  provided  with  a  small  metallic  bowl, 
and  usually  a  long  bamboo  stem,  for  with  persons  who  are  in  the  habit 
of  smoking  at  short  intervals  all  day  long,  a  large  bowl  would  be  inad- 
missible. By  inhaling  but  a  pinch  of  tobacco  on  one  occasion,  they 
extend  the  narcotising  influence  of  a  larger  pipe  over  a  greater  space  of 
time.  Nations  that  smoke  larger  pipes  adopt  some  other  material  for 
the  bowls,  as  metal  would  become  too  hot  -.  thus  the  Chibook  of 


448  ARMS  AND  BOATS. 

Their  arms  consist  of  bows  and  arrows,  spears,  and  a 
few  rude  matchlocks,  constructed  in  the  Chinese  fashion; 
and  in  some  of  their  walled  cities  they  have  forts  strongly 
built  of  stone,  and  mounting  guns.  When  they  wish  to 
intimidate  their  enemies,  and  make  a  great  show  of 
martial  power,  they  collect  all  the  heroes,  with  their 
swords  and  spears,  and  assemble  by  hundreds,  mingling 
their  shouts  with  the  discordant  sounds  of  gongs,  trum- 
pets, and  a  harsh  shrill  instrument  resembling  in  noise 
the  bagpipes.  I  have  heard  some  among  them,  however, 
play  very  plaintive  melodies  on  the  flute,  with  much  taste 
and  proficiency. 

They  do  not  appear  to  be  a  maritime  people,  their  boats 
being  neither  large  nor  numerous.  As  in  China  and 
Japan,  the  use  of  oars  is  unknown  among  the  Koreans, 
the  boats  being  always  propelled  by  means  of  sculls,  the 
boatmen  standing  over  the  loom,  and  bending  his  body 
backwards  and  forwards.  I  have  seen  as  many  as  ten 

Turkey  is  made  of  "  Samian  ware,"  a  kind  of  red-brown  clay ;  the 
Meerschaum  of  Germany  is  formed  of  a  yellowish-white  steatite  ;  the 
pipe  of  Holland  is  of  porcelain,  and  that  of  our  own  island  of  unglazed 
clay.  Among  the  Bashee  group,  and  more  particularly  on  the  island  of 
Ibayat,  the  natives  form  very  elegant  and  commodious  pipes  from  dif- 
ferent species  of  shells,  the  columella  and  septa  of  the  convolutions 
being  broken  down,  and  a  short  ebony  stem  inserted  into  a  hole  at  the 
apex  of  the  spire.  A  pipe  of  this  manufacture,  in  my  possession,  is 
formed  from  the  Mitra  papalis,  and  I  have  seen  others  made  out  of 
Mitra  episcopalis  and  of  Cerithium  and  Terebra.  At  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  I  procured  some  pipe-bowls,  made  by  the  Kaffirs,  from  a  black 
and  from  a  green  stone,  but  without  sculpture.  Old  Indian  pipes  have 
been  found  in  America  also  fashioned  out  of  green  stone.  The  sailors 
belonging  to  the  Samarang  having  lost  their  pipes  in  the  Sarawak  river, 
set  to  and  in  a  very  little  while  manufactured  excellent  pipes  from 
different  sized  internodes  of  the  bamboos  that  grew  around  them. 


CURIOSITY  OF  THE  NATIVES.  449 

men  working  at  one  enormous  long  scull.  For  landing 
in  the  surf  and  among  the  rocks  they  employ  a  sort  of 
catamaran  or  raft,  with  an  elevated  platform  large  enough 
to  contain  eight  or  ten  persons,  which  is  sculled  in  the 
manner  of  a  boat.  In  some  instances  they  employed 
these  rafts  to  destroy  our  surveying  marks,  when  our 
boats,  giving  chase,  would  pursue  and  capture  them,  often 
giving  rise  to  very  laughable  scenes  "When  a  man  be- 
comes troublesome  or  offends  in  any  way,  he  is  brought 
before  the  chief  Mandarins,  who  first  abuse  him,  and  then 
order  him  to  be  seized  and  thrown  down,  when  he  receives 
a  certain  number  of  severe  blows  with  a  flat  baton  (formed 
like  an  oar  and  about  six  feet  long),  on  the  bare  hams. 
Many  carry  about  them  severe  traces  of  this  bastinado 
practice  in  the  forms  of  scars  and  ulcers. 

On  our  approach  to  a  village,  the  poor  frightened  inha- 
bitants first  drive  away  all  their  bullocks  beyond  the 
mountains,  generally,  however,  leaving  one  of  the  leanest 
behind  as  a  tempting  lure.  This  being  effected,  they  then 
assemble  in  crowds  upon  all  the  highest  hill  tops,  until 
they  are  assured  of  our  pacific  intentions,  when  they 
cautiously  descend  and  approach,  and  begin  curiously  to 
examine  our  persons,  admiring  the  fine  texture  of  our 
linen,  wondering  at  our  gold  bands  and  buttons,  and  still 
more  at  the  pinkish  tinge  of  our  skins,  and  the  brown 
colour  of  our  hair.  On  one  occasion  we  landed  in  a  beau- 
tiful little  bay  where  there  was  a  village,  and  along  the 
shore  a  wood  of  large-sized  fir-trees.  By  an  offer  of  cloth 
and  sweet  wine  the  Captain  obtained  permission  to  cut 
down  some  of  them ;  but  no  sooner  did  the  carpenters 
lay  the  axe  to  the  base  of  one  of  the  finest,  than  an  old 

VOL.  n.  2  G 


450  ISLAND  OF  QUELPART. 

man  interposed,  with  gesticulations  and  tears  in  his  eyes 
making  us  signs  that  the  trees  were  his.  On  our  men 
proceeding  in  their  work,  the  poor  fellow  grew  quite 
frantic,  clasping  now  the  trunks  of  his  beloved  trees,  and 
then  the  knees  of  those  who  were  felling  them,  using 
every  possible  sign  and  gesture  to  save  his  firs  from  de- 
struction. He  was  however  eventually  pacified  by  bottles 
of  sweet  wine. 

The  same  custom  occurs  along  the  coast  of  Korea,  as 
among  the  Malays,  namely,  lighting  beacon  fires  on  the 
summits  of  the  hills  and  projecting  points  of  land,  to  in- 
dicate the  movements  of  a  supposed  enemy.  La  Perouse 
alludes  to  the  same  procedure  where  he  says:  "It  is  pro- 
bable we  occasioned  some  alarm  on  the  coast  of  Korea,  for 
in  the  afternoon  we  perceived  fires  lighted  on  all  the  points." 

The  large  island  of  Quelpart  or  Quelpoert,  which  we 
circumnavigated  and  surveyed  in  the  boats,  is  the  most 
southern  island  of  the  Korean  Archipelago.  The  proper 
name  is  the  same  as  that  of  Korea,  namely,  "Chaou-Seen," 
and  it  is  somewhat  remarkable  that  the  name  of  the 
principal  city,  King-Ka-Tou,  is  the  same  as  that  of  the 
peninsula,  Quelpart  may  be  said  to  be  an  oval  iron- 
bound  island,  covered  with  innumerable  conical  moun- 
tains, topped  in  many  instances  by  extinct  volcanic  craters, 
and  all  bowing  down  before  one  vast  and  towering  giant, 
whose  foot  is  planted  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  and  whose 
head  is  lost  in  clouds.  The  whole  surface,  including  the 
plains  and  vallies  between  the  hills  and  even  that  of  the 
mountain-flanks,  is  carefully,  richly,  and  most  beautifully 
cultivated  and  covered  with  a  pleasing  verdant  vegetation, 
laid  out  in  fields  divided  by  neat  walls  made  of  piled-up 


SCENERY  OF  QUELPART.  451 

stones.  It  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  "  black  waves, 
bare  crags,  and  banks  of  stone,"  covered  with  limpets  and 
Chitons,  and  tenanted  by  troops  of  dusky  cormorants.  As 
we  coasted  along  the  land,  crowds  of  wondering  natives 
appeared  on  every  hill-top,  staring  at  the  adventurous 
strangers  who  had  come  to  visit  their  far  distant  country, 
and  perchance  disturb  the  peaceful  tenor  of  their  lives.  In 
many  parts  along  the  coast  the  rocks  are  very  lofty,  and 
quite  perpendicular,  and  are  adorned  in  many  instances 
with  splendid  waterfalls, — 

"  Where  a  wild  stream  with  headlong  shock 
Comes  brawling  down  its  bed  of  rock 
To  mingle  with  the  main." 

In  one  part  only  was  the  coast  level,  and  huge  heaps  of 
weeds  lay  along  the  shore.  Numbers  of  meagre  Cormo- 
rants sat  in  long  black  rows  upon  the  stones ;  flocks 
of  dappled  wild  Ducks  were  feeding  at  the  margin  of  the 
water ;  a  species  of  Tern,  with  a  long  black  crest,  was 
hovering  above  the  surf,  and  at  some  distance  from  the 
shore  were  hundreds  of  large  white  Gulls,  sweeping  the 
surface  of  the  sea. 

A  large  and  beautiful  open  blue  Campanula  was  very 
conspicuous  in  many  parts,  as  were  also  the  handsome 
yellow  Liliaceous  plants  allied  to  Hemerocattis  disticha  and 
H.  fava,  which  grew  chiefly  on  acclivities,  and  the  large 
and  showy  Tiger-lily  (Lilium  monadelphum}.  There  was 
also  a  small  and  pretty  Hyacinth  with  delicate  blue  blos- 
soms; two  or  three  species  of  Juniper,  many  of  Oak, 
three  of  Fir,  several  of  Thuja,  two  kinds  of  Hazel,  and 
one  of  Myrtle.  The  Fumitory,  the  Lychnis,  the  wild 

Onion  and  Silver- weed  were  common  everywhere.     La 

•>  /.  o 

A/    U    <w 


452  HOUSES  OP  THE  KOREANS. 

Perouse  speaking  of  Quelpart,  observes:  "Unfortunately 
the  island  belongs  to  a  people  to  whom  all  intercourse 
with  strangers  is  prohibited,  and  who  retain  in  slavery  all 
who  have  the  misfortune  to  be  wrecked  on  their  shores. 
Some  of  the  Dutch  sailors  of  the  ' Sparrow-hawk/  after  a 
captivity  of  eighteen  years,  during  which  they  had  received 
severe  bastinadoes,  found  means  to  steal  away  a  bark  and 
get  to  Japan,  whence  they  reached  Batavia,  and  at  length 
Amsterdam."  He  observes,  moreover,  "this  island  which 
is  known  to  Europeans  only  by  the  loss  of  the  Dutch  ship 
'Sparrow-hawk'  in  1635,  was  at  that  time  under  the  do- 
minion of  the  king  of  Korea."  Mr.  Gutzlaff,  who  visited 
some  of  the  islands  of  the  Korean  Archipelago,  with  much 
truth  makes  the  following  regretful  remark: — "Walking," 
he  says,  "over  these  fertile  islands,  beholding  the  most 
beautiful  flowers  everywhere  growing  wild,  and  the  vine 
creeping  among  weeds  and  bushes,  we  accuse  the  'lord  of 
nature,'  man,  of  shameful  neglect;  for  he  could  have 
changed  this  wilderness  into  an  Eden." 

In  many  parts  of  the  Archipelago,  the  hamlets  and 
houses  of  the  more  wealthy  members  of  the  population 
are  delightfully  situated,  being  frequently  embosomed 
in  groves  of  umbrageous  trees  with  running  rivulets 
beside  them,  and  all  around  and  towering  up  behind, 
gently  swelling  hills  covered  with  verdure,  and  with 
herds  of  oxen  grazing;  and  when  placed  near  the  sea-side, 
there  is  generally  a  fishing-wear  close  at  hand.  Their 
houses  consist  of  a  sitting-room,  a  sleeping- apartment, 
and  a  shed  used  for  culinary  purposes,  where  are  observed 
large  earthern  vessels  for  holding  rice  and  water.  In 
their  towns  are  frequently  seen  rudely  carved  stone- 


STONE  IMAGES.  453 

images,  and  it  may  be  observed  that  a  very  striking 
similarity  exists  between  these  graven  boundary  stones  of 
the  cities  of  Quelpart,  and  the  Hermae  of  the  ancient 
Greeks,  and  the  Termini,  or  Lapides  Terminales,  of  the 
Romans.  The  earliest  form  in  which  the  divinities  of 
classic  mythology  were  represented,  was  an  unhewn  stone, 
which  afterwards  assumed  the  modification  of  a  square 
block,  and  subsequently  grew,  when  the  art  of  Sculpture 
became  more  elaborate  and  refined,  into  a  polished 
pedestal,  surmounted  by  the  head  of  the  favourite  deity. 
These  were  placed  in  the  front  of  temples,  and  other 
public  buildings,  and  at  the  corners  of  streets  and  roads, 
and  frequently  received  the  tribute  of  divine  honours. 
Whether  these^Korean  Hermae  were  regarded  with  reli- 
gious veneration  by  the  inhabitants  of  Quelpart,  I  am 
unable  to  state,  but  I  may  point  out  the  remarkable  fact 
of  the  existence  of  similar  sculptured  posts  in  the  Dyak 
villages  of  the  island  of  Borneo,  where  they  occupy  the 
same  relative  positions  and  probably  serve  the  same  pur- 
pose. Lieut.  Kolf,  in  his  Voyages  of  the  'Dourg,'  a 
Dutch  Brig  of  war,  states  that  among  the  Arafuras 
inhabiting  the  Ami  islands,  one  of  his  officers  found  "an 
image  rudely  formed  of  wood,  together  with  a  post  on 
which  different  figures  such  as  snakes,  lizards,  crocodiles, 
and  human  forms  were  carved,  and  which  the  owner  stated 
to  be  intended  for  preserving  the  house  from  evil  spirits." 
Crawfurd,  in  his  history  of  the  Indian  Archipelago, 
alludes  to  the  existence  of  images  of  a  similar  nature  in 
Java:  "In  the  least  civilised  parts  of  the  island,  as  the 
mountains  of  the  Sundas,  and  particularly  the  eastern 
province  of  Banyuwangi,  there  are  found  a  variety  of 


454  SCENERY  AND  VEGETATION. 

images  extremely  rude  and  ill -fashioned,  and  which,  fre- 
quently, by  the  extensive  decomposition  which  their 
surfaces  have  undergone,  appear  of  greater  antiquity  than 
those  already  described.  These  are,  in  ah1  probability, 
representations  of  the  local  objects  of  worship  among  the 
Javanese,  before  they  adopted  Hinduism,  and  which  pro- 
bably, as  is  still  the  case  in  Bali,  continued  to  receive 
some  share  of  their  adoration,  after  that  event."  The 
appearance  of  the  basaltic  columns  that  adorn  the 
perpendicular  sides  of  many  of  the  islands  was  very  grand 
and  imposing,  simulating  in  several  instances  ruined 
monasteries,  old  time-worn  buildings,  and  picturesque 
cathedrals,  with  high  fretted  pinnacles, 

"  rocks  sublime 

To  human  art  a  sportive  semblance  bore, 
And  yellow  lichens  coloured  all  the  clime, 
Like  moonlit  battlements  and  towers  decayed  by  time." 

On  the  rugged  acclivities  of  several  steep,  rocky  islets, 
hundreds  of  Stone-flowers,  as  the  sailors  call  them, 
(Lycopodium  lepidophyttum,}  were  expanding  their  rose-like 
heads  in  every  direction,  and  the  grey  summits  were  often 
garlanded  with  graceful  hanging  festoons  formed  of  the 
wild  vine  and  various  other  climbers. 

Pines  of  several  species,  oaks,  maples,  rhododendrons, 
brambles,  azaleas,  roses,  violets,  camellias,  myrtles,  mul- 
berries, junipers,  eugenias,  mallows,  sages,  hypericums, 
asters,  gnathaliums,  and  hundreds  of  other  plants  are 
observed  in  these  islands;  the  parasitic  Cassythis  filiformis 
is  found  clinging  to  the  low  bushes,  and  weaving  them 
together  in  an  almost  impervious  mass;  the  larch  and  the 
willow,  the  Ficus  tinctoria  and  the  Diospyros,  the  Bamboo 


KOREAN  GRAVES.  455 

and  the  Cycas  are  spread  abundantly  over  every  part;  a 
few  labiate  and  scrophulariaceous  plants  were  visible,  and 
several  species  of  Chenopodium  and  Asclepias  were  com- 
mon everywhere.  Grasses  and  compound  flowers  were 
not  very  numerous,  but  I  observed  a  pretty  good  sprink- 
ling of  Cryptogamia,  especially  among  the  ferns  and 
lichens.  On  the  sides  of  some  tombs  on  a  little  island 
near  Quelpart,  a  species  of  hymenopterous  insect  of  the 
family  Eumenidce  builds  a  neat  hemispherical  nest  of  the 
size  of  a  filbert,  composed  of  clay  and  comminuted  grass 
made  into  a  kind  of  mortar;  the  interior  is  lined  with  a 
smooth  polished  plaster,  and  contains  a  single  larva  with 
the  body  slightly  bent  upon  itself. 

On  one  small  island  where  we  watered  ship,  there  were 
fields  of  Tiger-lilies,  and  in  another  part  barley  was  grow- 
ing, and  clumps  of  dark-green  pine-trees  overhung  the 
precipitous  side  where  masses  of  lichen-stained  rocks  lay 
crowded  and  jumbled  together.  The  whole  surface  of 
the  island  was  covered  with  huge  boulders  and  loose 
stones  overgrown  with  vegetation.  In  one  part  was  a 
large  square  enclosure  with  low  solid  walls  of  piled-up 
stones,  containing  the  graves  of  two  individuals,  known  as 
such  by  the  most  grotesque  tombstones  I  ever  saw  in  my 
life.  As  the  sun  was  shining  brightly  and  the  day  very 
warm,  insects  were  numerous,  more  especially  the  Diptera, 
which  were  far  more  brilliant  and  in  larger  numbers  than 
I  had  anywhere  seen,  even  in  the  tropics; 

"these  little  bright-eyed  things, 
That  float  about  the  air  on  azure  wings," 

were  pitching  on  the  leaves,  whirling  round  the  flowers, 


456  SCENERY. 

and  hovering  gaily  about  the  bare,  sunny  sides  of  the 
big  stones,  with  the  greatest  vivacity,  imparting  much 
liveliness  to  the  entire  scene.  In  another  part  of  this 
pretty  islet,  however,  the  appearance  of  affairs  became 
slightly  changed,  and  this  occurred  in  a  dull  swampy 
morass  where  huge  reeds  grew,  and  where,  as  you  stooped 
down  and  looked  curiously,  as  I  did,  among  their  tall, 
slender  culms,  dozens  of  lurid-looking  vipers  might 
be  seen  trailing  their  slow  length  along  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  and  winding  their  sinuous  way  quietly 
into  the  dull  distance  of  the  pigmy  forest.  It  was  in  truth 
a  noisome  place,  "redolent,"  as  Dickens  would  say,  "  of 
all  sorts  of  slabby,  clammy,  creeping  and  uncomfortable 
life."  Frogs,  however,  towards  the  evening  were  numerous 
and  cheerful,  and  the  glow-worms  lighted  up  their  tiny 
lamps,  but  still  the  gloom  of  that  dark  spot  where  the 
vipers  so  abounded  continued  for  some  time  to  haunt 
my  mind.  It  seemed  to  be  a  scene  such  as  Spencer  must 
have  presented  to  himself,  when  he  described  in  his 
"Faerie  Queen e "  the  subsidence  of  the  waters  of  the 
Nile  after  the  fertile  slime,  according  to  his  ideas  of  the 
spontaneous  generation  of  animals,  had  covered  the  plains: 

"  wherein  there  breed 

Ten  thousand  kinds  of  creatures,  partly  male, 
And  partly  female,  of  his  fruitful  seed; 
Such  ugly  monstrous  shapes  elsewhere  may  no  man  reed." 

In  some  parts  of  Korea  the  land  exhibits  the  appearance 
of  parks  and  meadows,  with  clumps  of  firs  and  other  trees, 
among  which  may  be  noticed  the  oak.  The  Vitis  Indica 
is  seen  trailing  among  heaps  of  stones  ;  the  Composite 
begin  to  appear,  among  which  may  be  noticed  a  Coreopsis 


BIRDS  OF  KOREA.  457 

and  an  Aster;  a  few  Cacti  mingled  with  Sedums,  aromatic 
Labiatae  and  Scrophularinetf,  and  here  and  there  a  Cru- 
ciferous plant,  caused  the  vegetation  to  assume  somewhat 
the  appearance  of  what  we  are  accustomed  to  see  in 
Europe,  but  strangely  mingled  with  such  tropical  forms 
as  Euphorbiacete,  Leguminosae,  Ehizophora  Mangle,  and 
Hibiscus  tiliacus. 

The  scenery  of  these  islands  reminds  one  very  much  of 
our  own  woodland  haunts  ;  for,  when  the  sky  is  bright, 
and  the  sun  is  powerful  on  the  ground,  the  retired  dells, 
and  plains,  and  shady  nooks  are  instinct  with  life. 
Gaudily-tinted  butterflies  sport  around,  feathered  warblers 
twitter  in  the  trees,  and  crowds  of  insects  spin  about  the 
flowers.  Among  the  birds,  "  Great  Nature's  happy  com- 
moners," were  seen  the  modest  Pigeon,  cowering  in  some 
deep  recess ;  the  Flycatcher  and  the  Butcher-bird,  busily 
intent  on  prey  ;  the  showy  Woodpecker,  fluttering  in  its 
pride,  and  clinging  to  the  boughs  in  every  kind  of  fan- 
tastic attitude.  Troops  of  white,  long-necked  Herons 
ranged  themselves  along  the  padi-fields,  greedy  after  frogs; 
nor  were  "  lingering  notes  of  sylvan  music"  wanting,  as 
the  evening  drew  on  apace ;  a  bird  with  a  note  like  the 
nightingale,  and  a  species  of  Thrush,  warbled  very  pret- 
tily/ and  at  early  dawn,  the  Lark,  that  glorious  ininstrel- 
bird,  sang  loud  and  joyous.  Many  other  birds,  well  known 
in  England,  were  busy  in  affairs  of  love.  The  Raven  sat 
quietly  perched  upon  the  stunted  trees,  or  croaking  as  he 
sailed  familiarly  around  us;  the  Wren,  the  Sparrow,  and  the 
Blackbird  were  common  in  the  thickets ;  the  King- 
fisher glided  by  the  narrow  brooks ;  the  Swift  and  the 
Swallow  clung  to  the  rocky  cliffs,  or  wheeled  in  circles 


458  FISHES. 

through  the  air ;  the  Cormorant  sat  grave  and  judge-like 
on  the  coral  reefs ;  the  Sea-gull  screamed  about  the  ripple 
of  the  tide ;  and  Ducks  and  Divers  were  disporting  them- 
selves on  the  waters  of  the  bays.  Most  of  these,  however, 
were  of  different  species  from  those  that  inhabit  the  coun- 
tries of  Europe.  When  I  first  saw  the  Wren  in  this  far- 
off  region,  it  instantly  recalled  scenes  familiar  to  me  in 
childhood  by  the  mere  force  of  association,  for  certain 
animals  are  always  connected  in  our  minds  with  peculiar 
haunts  and  localities.  We  never  think  of  the  Chamois, 
but  we  fancy  him  clinging  to  the  cliff;  of  the  Antelope, 
but  we  imagine  her  bounding  across  the  plain ;  of  the 
Tiger,  but  we  ruminate  on  drear  and  lonely  jungles ;  of 
the  Wolf,  but  we  dream  of  forest  gloom ;  or  the  Hyaena, 
but  we  picture  to  ourselves  grave-yards  and  desolate  burial 
places.  The  Spoonbill,  the  Quail,  the  Curlew,  the  Tit- 
mouse, the  Wagtail,  and  the  Teal,  are  also  met  with  in 
the  Korean  Archipelago. 

I  have  but  few  words  to  say  with  reference  to  the  fishes 
of  this  group,  the  habits  and  economy  of  these  scaly  deni- 
zens of  the  deep  continuing  to  remain  almost  a  sealed 
volume  even  to  the  Naturalist.  Solitary  and  retiring,  they 
elude  the  scrutiny  of  curious  man  in  the  vast  regions  of 
old  "ocean's  grey  and  melancholy  waste,"  or  when  "but 
dimly  seen"  up  rivers  and  in  shallow  bays,  or  playing 
among  the  coral  reefs,  such  is  in  general  the  rapidity  of 
their  movements,  that  the  most  eager  scientific  eye  cannot 
trace  the  nature  of  their  proceedings. 

The  fishes  of  the  Eastern  Seas  glitter  with  gold  and 
silver,  their  sides  are  marked,  banded  and  spotted  with 
the  most  vivid  colours,  and  as  they  cleave  the  transparent 


INSECTS.  459 

water  round  the  coral  reefs,  sporting  playfully  or  resting 
motionless  on  their  vibrating  pectorals,  they  fascinate  the 
eye  fully  as  much  as  the  large  gaudily-coloured  Lepidoptera 
do  upon  the  land. 

Among  the  Islands  of  the  Korean  Archipelago  the  chil- 
dren use  the  dried  spiral  eggs  of  a  species  of  Skate,  or 
some  other  cartilaginous  fish,  as  rattles,  having  first  intro- 
duced a  few  small  pebbles  to  assist  in  making  a  noise. 
Beautiful  azure  Serrani  and  party-coloured  Scari  people 
the  calm  waters  within  the  coral  reefs.  Thousands  of 
other  rock-fish  are  also  met  with  in  every  possible  variety 
of  colour.  One  species  swims  in  shoals,  and  is  of  the 
deepest  and  most  brilliant  ultramarine  blue ;  others  are 
vivid  yellow,  while  many  again  are  striped,  banded,  or 
furnished  with  crimson  tails  or  bright  green  fins,  remind- 
ing one  of  the  fish  Milton  alludes  to,  which 

"  show  to  the  sun 
Their  waved  coats  dropp'd  with  gold." 

Various  species  of  Carassus,  Coboeta,  Lenciscus,  and  other 
genera,  were  observed  by  us  among  the  islands. 

The  Entomology  of  these  islands  doubtless  is  very  rich 
in  new  species.  The  large  black  and  white  butterfly  Histia 
Leuconome  is  common  both  among  the  Korean  Archipelago 
and  in  the  Meia-co-shimah  group.  It  wanders  lazily  along 
on  heavy  flapping  wings,  a  little  above  the  low  trees,  in 
shady  places.  On  thistle-heads  an  elongated  polished 
green  Cerambyx  is  seen,  which  diffuses  a  very  powerful 
odour  of  attar  of  roses,  like  the  agreeable  perfume  emitted 
by  the  Cerambyx  rosalia  of  the  Pyrenees.  Another  very 
common  beetle  is  the  Pristonocerm  cceruleipcnnis,  a  beau- 
tiful blue  insect  with  a  yellow  head  ;  while  on  the  ground, 


460  INSECTS. 

in  shady  places,  a  splendid  new  species  of  Carabidse  (Ca- 
rabus  monilifer,  Tatum,*)  is  met  with  in  considerable 
bundance.     Dull   green   Cetoniida   are   also   numerous 
among  the  grassy  parts  of  the  islands ;  and  a  species  of 
Passalus  is  found  among  the  dried  Algae  along  the  strand. 
In  the  evening  Lampyridce  and  several  species  of  Stag- 
beetles   (Lucani)  fly  about  in  company  with  Geotrupes 
and  Apliodii.     Hundreds  of  the  long-horned,  beautiful, 
little   Adelce,    day-flying    Moths,    with    wings   that   in 
glossiness    and    brilliancy    resemble    burnished    steel, 
were  flying  in  companies  of  thirty  and  forty  in  rapidly 
revolving  circles  above  the  low  bushes,  thus  disporting 
themselves  in  the  heat  of  the  noon-day  sun,  contrary  to 
the  usual  custom  of  nocturnal  Lepidoptera.     Some  other 
insects,   as  (Ecocophorts,  Sesiidce,  or  diurnal  humming- 
bird-Hawkmoths,  and  various   Uraniidce  have  the  same 
habits.     Flying  heavily  about  the  lower  bushes,  or  cling- 
ing to  the  stalks  of  the  tall  grass,  were  several  species  of 
Trochilium,  some  very  handsomely  marked,  and  others 
apparently  similar  to  those  of  Europe.     A  species  of  Ear- 
wig, very  closely  allied  to  our  Forficula  auricularia,  but 
somewhat  larger,  was  observed  to  be  common  among  the 
dead  leaves  that  cover  the  ground  in  the  pine-woods ;  and 
here  the  huge  Dynastida  and  Onthophagi  of  the  tropics 
seemed  to  have  given  place  to  the  numerous  sub-genera  of 
the  GeotrupidfS  of  more  temperate  regions,  and  I  began 
to  recognise  many  forms  belonging  to  this  extensive  family 
once  familiar  to  my  eye  in  England.    A  Spider,  belonging 
to  the  genus  Attus,  was  observed   by  me   among  the 
thousands  of  dead  Tmncatella,  that  occupy  the  holes  and 

*  Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.  vol.  xx,  p.  15. 


HABITS  OF  SPIDERS.  461 

corners  of  the  rocks  in  every  part  of  these  islands,  which 
forms  a  convenient  abode  in  these  small  shells,  lining 
them  carefully  with  a  fine  silken  tapetum.  Near  the  sea- 
coast,  a  minute  species  of  Pagurus  was  found  occupying 
these  little  truncated  univalve  shells,  crawling  about  by 
thousands.  Our  spider,  however,  is  unable  to  move  about 
with  its  borrowed  house  in  the  manner  of  those  pirate 
crabs,  but  either  sits  sedentary  in  its  den,  or  ventures 
forth  at  intervals  on  its  predatory  hunting  excursions. 

Among  the  rocks  of  a  small  islet  near  Quelpart,  the 
largest  of  the  Korean  islands,  there  is  a  species  of  Spider 
which  forms  a  very  ingenious  dwelling,  which  may  be 
compared  to  that  of  the  Swallow,  whose  nest  affords  such 
an  important  article  in  the  gastronomy  of  wealthy  Man- 
darins, (the  Hirundo  esculenta,}  but  adhering  to  the  rough 
surface  of  the  rock  in  a  reversed  position,  resembling  a 
watch-pocket  upside  down.  It  is  composed  of  a  substan- 
tially-woven silky  material,  and  firmly  secured  by  means 
of  a  glutinous  secretion.  The  ingenious  little  builder  and 
proprietor  of  this  strange  castle  in  the  air,  lets  himself 
down  by  a  rope-ladder,  or,  to  speak  less  fancifully,  by  a 
fine  spun  web,  which  he  manufactures  for  the  purpose  out 
of  the  substance  of  his  body  as  required,  he  himself  serv- 
ing the  purpose  of  a  weight ;  "  deducit  stamina,  ipso  se 
pondere  usus,"  as  Pliny  observes,  when  treating  on  these 
animals  in  his  chapter  "  De  Araneis."  In  the  eaves  of 
the  thatched  houses  of  the  Koreans,  I  observed  that  a 
large  black-coloured  species  of  hymenopterous  insect  forms 
long  cylindrical  holes,  lined  with  comminuted  straw  made 
into  a  kind  of  mortar  by  being  mixed  with  a  glutinous 
secretion  ;  at  the  bottom  of  this  tube  the  mother  deposits 


462  INSECTS. 

her  eggs,  which  are  shut  out  from  any  external  communi- 
cation by  means  of  a  thin  partition  made  of  a  substance 
resembling  "  papier  mache."  Another  Wasp  constructs 
a  mud  hut  for  its  future  progeny  against  the  sides  of  the 
walls,  having  a  small  round  perforation  on  the  lower  part, 
which  serves  as  a  door. 

A  milk  thistle  with  long  spiny  leaves,  is  rather  common 
on  some  of  the  islands  of  the  Korean  Archipelago,  on  the 
large  purple  flowers  of  which  I  frequently  found  one  or 
two  specimens  of  a  species  of  Aromia,  which  diffuses  a 
powerful  odour  of  attar  of  roses.  In  markings  it  ap- 
proaches to  the  Polyzomis  bifasciatus,  but  differs  from  it 
in  having  the  thorax  spined  and  in  other  characters. 
Among  other  insects  met  with  by  me  in  these  islands, 
were  a  dark  burnished  green  Eumolpus ;  a  bronze-brown 
species  of  Silphodes,  allied  to  S.  Philippinensis  of  West- 
wood  ;  a  new  species  of  Dorcus,  and  a  Lucanus  allied  to 
L.  Saiga  of  Olivier;  a  new  species  of  Bolboceras  (B 
Koreensis,  Adams  and  White),  with  a  black  thorax,  and 
black  and  brown  elytra ;  an  Adoretm,  of  a  rusty-brown 
colour,  allied  to  A.  ranunculus ;  a  new  species  of  Mononyx, 
of  a  dull  blackish-brown,  which  hides  in  the  sandy  soil,  and 
when  caught  feigns  death  ;  and  a  Scutigera,  found  under 
stones,  and  which  when  disturbed  runs  with  great  celerity. 
Besides  these  may  be  added  a  species  of  Scarites,  entirely 
of  a  shining  coal-black  colour,  which  is  very  active,  running 
about  all  day  among  the  heaps  of  sea- weed  thrown  up 
along  the  beach.  When  approached  it  burrows  rapidly 
in  the  sand,  bites  very  severely,  and  makes  vigorous  efforts 
to  escape.  It  is  a  most  predacious  creature,  feeding 
greedily  on  the  Talitri,  Gammari,  and  other  small  Crus- 


SHELLS.  463 

tacea  that  abound  in  these  situations.  I  have  watched 
them  enter  the  holes  in  the  sand,  and  on  giving  them 
insects  of  any  description,  they  would  seize  them  savagely 
with  their  powerful  jaws,  and  rapidly  tear  them  in  pieces. 
I  h  ave  found  this  same  insect  lying  concealed  in  the  bur- 
rows of  a  small  Ocypode  that  perforates  the  sandy  soil  in 
all  directions,  and  which  most  probably  forms  part  of 
the  prey  of  this  carnivorous  insect.  Many  other  Coleoptera 
besides  the  Scarites  appear  to  have  the  same  habit  of  bur- 
rowing in  the  sand ;  as  the  Hesperopliilm  arenarius,  and 
some  species  of  Bledius  and  Dyschirim.  At  the  back  of 
the  Isle  of  Wight  I  have  observed  a  large  beetle  with 
similar  habits. 

Several  handsomely  marked  varieties  of  Stomatella 
rubra,  besides  the  Stomatella  auricula  and  sulcifera,  and 
Stomatix  pliymotis  and  duplicate,  were  found  strewing 
the  beach  of  some  of  the  coral  islands,  mixed  with  a  spe- 
cies of  Crepidula ;  and  in  the  deep  water  between  some 
of  the  wall-sided  basaltic  islets  a  rich  harvest  of  Tere- 
bratulce  including  two  large  characteristic  new  species  of  a 
beautiful  and  delicate  red-rose  colour.  The  former 
shell  occurred  in  great  numbers,  and  was  observed  washed 
up  along  the  coasts  filling  the  holes  of  the  rocks ;  thus 
proving  that  typhoons  and  violent  tempests  in  their 
agitation  of  the  sea  penetrate  to  very  considerable  depths 
below  the  surface,  requiring  these  delicate  shells  to  be 
anchored  for  further  security  by  a  byssus  to  the  stones 
at  the  bottom.  Submarine  agitations  have  been  known 
to  reach  to  a  depth  of  200  feet,  and  so  violent  in  their 
operation  as  to  break  rocks  in  pieces.  A  single  valve  of 
a  large  and  interesting  new  species  of  Cockle  (Cardium 


464  SHELLS. 

Bechei,  Adams  and  Reeve)  was  obtained  by  the  dredge 
from  the  same  locality,  and  in  the  straits  separating  Korea 
from  the  island  of  Kiusu,  one  of  the  Japanese  group,  a 
specimen  of  the  remarkable  Fusus  pagoda,  together  with 
several  scarce  Nuculce  and  some  Murices,  among  which 
was  a  magnificent  new  one  I  propose  naming  in  honour 
of  Sir  William  Burnett,  were  procured.  The  rocks  of  the 
Korean  islands  were  covered  with  a  large  kind  of  Mono- 
donta  which  boiled  with  a  little  salt,  were  excellent  eating; 
adhering  to  the  stones  was  &Mytilus,  which,  when  masti- 
cated, was  of  a  peppery  taste;  and  the  mud-flats  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  fishing-wears,  were  covered  with  the 
Cardium  Sinense,  and  a  species  of  BuUaa;  while  the  rare 
Lingula  tumidula,  Reeve,  was  found  buried  a  little  below 
the  surface. 

The  Cryptostoma  generally  inhabits  very  deep  water. 
It  is  cautious  and  timid  in  the  extreme,  contracting  its 
body  on  the  slightest  touch.  When,  however,  it  fancies 
itself  secure  and  unobserved,  it  gradually  expands  its 
shapeless  form,  protrudes  its  long  large  foot,  and  explores 
the  surface  on  which  it  crawls,  with  a  small  finger-like 
process,  in  the  manner  of  a  leech  before  fixing  itself.  It 
progresses  with  a  tardigrade  movement,  sliding  like  a 
Limax,  on  its  ventral  disc,  the  short  tentacles  exserted, 
and  the  posterior  lobes  of  the  mantle  dilated.  It  is 
closely  allied  to  Natica  in  every  particular. 

The  Eburna  is  leisurely  in  its  movements,  exserting  its 
tentacula  and  crawling  with  a  slow  and  measured  pace. 
It  is,  however,  quick  and  rapid,  when  alarmed,  in  perceiv- 
ing the  enemy,  and  immediately  retracts  the  soft  parts 
within  the  shell.  Swainson  states  it  has  no  operculum, 


ASPECT  OF  CORAL-BEDS.  465 

which  is  not  correct.  The  mantle  of  this  species  is  of  a  dull, 
dirty  pinkish  white,  covered  with  large  irregular  shaped, 
reddish-brown  blotches,  distributed  in  no  regular  order  ; 
the  siphon  is  marbled  with  the  same  colour,  but  of  a 
lighter  shade;  the  tentacles  are  dull  pinkish- white. 
Living  Eburna  are  very  common  in  the  China  sea.  They 
generally  live  in  a  muddy  botton,  and  in  about  fourteen 
fathoms  of  water.  The  Chinese  fishermen  along  the  coast 
frequently  bring  them  up  in  their  nets,  together  with 
Dorippe,  Dromia,  and  other  Crustaceans;  and  I  have  seen 
them  carefully  set  apart  in  the  stern  of  their  craft,  as  if 
for  the  purpose  of  being  eaten. 

Among  the  islands  of  the  Korean  Archipelago,  the 
coral-beds  are  very  splendid,  and  appear,  as  you  look 
down  upon  them,  through  the  clear,  transparent,  water, 
to  form  beautiful  flower-gardens  of  marine  plants.  The 
polypi  which  protrude  their  hydra-forms,  are  coloured 
green,  blue,  violet,  and  yellow,  which  gives  the  corals  a 
very  different  appearance  to  the  dry,  calcareous  masses 
seen  in  museums,  and  calls  to  mind  the  exclamation  of 
St.  Pierre:  "Nos  livres  sur  la  nature  n'en  sont  que  le 
roman,  et  nos  cabinets  que  le  tombeau."  Indeed  few 
sights  of  nature  can  exceed,  in  beauty  and  interest,  these 
submarine  parterres,  where,  amid  the  protean  forms  of 
the  branched  corals,  huge  madrepores,  brain-shaped,  flat, 
or  headed  like  gigantic  mushrooms,  are  interspersed  with 
sponges  of  the  deepest  red,  and  huge  asterias  of  the  richest 
blue.  But  as  Spencer  very  properly  observes, 

"Much  more  eath  to  tell  the  stars  on  hy, 
Albe  they  endless  seeme  in  estimation, 
Than  to  recount  the  seas  posterity  : 
So  fertile  be  the  floods  in  generation, 
So  huge  their  numbers,  and  so  numberless  their  nation." 
VOL.  II.  2  H 


466  SPONGES. 

Among  these  numerous  small  islands  of  the  Korean 
Archipelago,  Sponges  are  very  plentiful,  and  in  some 
spots  may  be  collected  in  almost  any  quantity.  They 
are  also  easily  studied  here  in  a  living  state.  Apathetic 
and  immovable,  Sponges  may  be  said  hardly  to  exist ; 
nourished  by  permeating  canals,  which  pervade  in  every 
direction  their  porose  bodies,  they  have  properties  but  no 
instincts,  attributes  but  no  sensations.  Their  living  and 
gelatinous  crusts  show  no  vital  energies,  save  the  ceaseless 
vibration  of  innumerable  cilia,  that  properly  belong  to 
animal  existence.  Mechanically  the  surrounding  fluid 
moves  in  through  myriads  of  pores  and  larger  vents,  and 
then  they  grow  rooted  and  immovable,  and  gradually  as- 
sume their  specific  forms  and  full  dimensions.  Soft  and 
delicate,  they  love  the  deep  still  waters  of  the  tropic  seas, 
where,  in  obscure  recesses,  they  propagate,  and  grow,  and 
die.  Among  the  islands  I  enumerated  ten  or  twelve  well 
marked  species  which  are  most  likely  new.  Some  were 
flat,  and  split  into  numerous  riband-like  branches,  others 
were  round  and  digitated,  others  filiform,  elongated  and 
cylindrical,  while  some  were  in  the  form  of  hollow  tubes; 
others  form  delicate  lace-like  aggregate  cells,  others  wide 
cancellated  infundibuliform  cups.  Some  again  have 
broad  scalloped  rounded  leaves,  and  others  dense  white 
branch-like  foliations,  some  are  hard  and  horny,  some 
quite  solid  with  calcareous  spicula,  and  others  loose,  light, 
and  very  expansible. 

Various  singular  species  of  the  fleshy -lobed  Sarco- 
phyta  and  handsomely  coloured  varieties  of  Tubastrtea, 
with  numerous  other  showy-looking  Corallines  were 
common  on  all  the  beaches. 

Leaving  Hong-Kong  on  the  1st  of  April,  we  touched 


SAMA-SANA.  467 

at  Batan  on  the  17th  of  May,  were  at  Ibugos  on  the 
19th,  at  Bay  at  on  the  20th,  sighted  Botel  Tobago  on  the 
2nd  of  June,  and  on  the  3rd  landed  and  examined  the 
small  isolated  island  of  Sama-Sana,  of  whose  existence  on 
the  surface  of  our  globe  serious  doubts  had  been  enter- 
tained. On  landing  in  the  boats  we  noticed  two  large 
junks  hauled  up  high  and  dry  upon  the  beach,  and  on 
inquiry  through  our  Chinese  interpreter  found  that  they 
had  just  brought  emigrants  from  Chin-Chu  and  Amoy. 
On  proceeding  to  their  village,  while  the  Captain  was  en- 
gaged in  fixing  the  position  of  the  island  and  taking  the 
necessary  observations,  I  found  about  two  hundred  people 
dressed  in  the  manner  of  the  lower  orders  of  Chinese, 
with  the  features  of  Tartars  or  Cochin-Chinese,  living  in 
houses  wretchedly  dirty,  and  constructed  in  the  manner 
of  those  of  the  poorer  classes  of  Pa-tchung-san.  With 
much  politeness  these  poor  islanders  led  me  into  one  of 
their  hovels  and  brought  me  Samschiew,  rice,  boiled  lily- 
roots,  dried  mollusks  (Haliotis),  and  roasted  ground-nuts 
or  pods  of  the  Arachis  liypogea.  They  had  brought  a  beau- 
tiful valley  in  the  vicinity  of  their  hamlet  into  an  excellent 
state  of  cultivation,  growing  rice,  sweet  potato  (Batatas 
edulis),  Indian  corn  and  ground-nuts,  with  a  little 
tobacco.  They  appeared  to  be  much  addicted  to  chewing 
the  areca-nut,  and  betel-leaf,  and  were,  moreover,  almost 
continually  smoking.  The  women  were  very  ugly,  even 
for  members  of  the  Mongolian  race,  but  by  no  means  shy 
or  distant,  as  is  generally  the  case  in  these  countries.  An 
old  man  at  parting  gravely  placed  upon  my  finger  a  ring 
made  from  a  species  of  Conus,  with  the  spire  and  pro- 
duced part  of  the  body-whorl  ground  down.  In  a  ramble 

2  H  2 


468  AN  EARTHQUAKE. 

through  the  island  I  procured  specimens  of  a  beautiful 
PotycJmis,  (a  species  of  Lizard,)  and  noticed  the  lovely 
green  Size  Moosee  or  Tachysaurus  Japonicus,  and  a  small 
brown  species  of  Zootica.  Frogs  were  numerous  in  the 
padi-fields,  contrary  to  what  might  have  been  expected  on 
so  small  an  island.  The  land  and  fresh-water  shells  were 
similar  to  those  of  the  Meia-co-shimahs,  namely  a  small 
brown  snail,  a  Paludina,  and  two  species  of  Lymnaa. 

Herons,  snipes,  and  plovers  were  numerous  on  the 
island.  Among  the  trees  the  Banyan  and  Ficus  tinctoria 
formed  in  many  parts  dense  shady  groves.  In  the  course 
of  my  rambles  I  made  a  capture  of  a  large  Dynastes, 
several  Cetoniae,  and  a  splendid  new  member  of  the 
Curculio  family,  a  species  of  Platyrhynchus  allied  to 
P.  multipunctatus,  but  differing  from  that  insect  in 
several  particulars.  As  the  species  named  by  Schonherr, 
P.  Waltoni,  is  synonymous  with  one  previously  described 
by  Waterhouse  and  Chevlotat,  I  have  named  this  Sama- 
Sana  beetle  P.  Waltonianus,  in  honour  of  that  gentleman 
who  has  devoted  such  minute  attention  to  this  branch  of 
Entomology.  The  insect  is  dark,  shining-black,  covered 
with  round  opaque,  powdery  spots  of  a  deep  smalt-blue 
colour,  and  having  the  thorax  and  elytra  sculptured. 
Pound  on  the  leaves  of  plants. 

As  our  party  were  quietly  regaling  themselves  with  a 
cold  collation,  seated  comfortably  on  the  turfy  side  of  a 
hummock  near  the  sea,  we  were  suddenly  rocked  and 
tumbled  about  in  a  very  absurd  manner  by  the  intestinal 
commotion  and  up-heaving  of  an  earthquake,  the  shock 
of  which  extended  to  the  ship,  and  was  distinctly  felt  on 
board. 


SCENERY  OF  KUMI.  469 

A  survey  of  the  small  island  of  Kurai,  placed  us  once 
again  among  our  ancient  friends,  the  Me'ia-co-shimites. 
Our  welcome  was  as  polite  and  ceremonious,  the  same 
attention  was  paid  to  our  wants,  and  a  similar  active  and 
a  vigilant  espionage  was  bestowed  upon  all  our  movements, 
resembling  that  we  experienced  at  Pa-tchung-san. 
They  erected  rude  huts  as  watch-houses  near  our  tents, 
supplied  us  with  mats,  lent  us  horses,  and  accompanied 
us  from  village  to  village,  in  a  similar  manner.  We  found 
the  scenery  of  the  island  in  many  parts  very  pretty  and 
picturesque,  and  even  in  some  places  discovered  scenes 
of  considerable  grandeur  and  sublimity.  Along  the  coast 
we  were  frequently  obliged  to  trust  implicitly  to  the 
sagacity  and  sure-footedness  of  our  tough  little  horses, 
which  conducted  us  safely  by  many  a  "mauvais  pas" 
along  the  edge  of  precipitous  cliffs  and  overhanging 
rocks.  The  villages  are  most  delightfully  situated  and 
often  laid  out  with  very  considerable  taste,  the  houses 
being  neatly  built,  and  prettily  disposed  among  clumps 
of  trees.  In  the  centre  of  the  island  we  were  obliged  to 
ascend  on  horseback  a  stone-road  cut  in  a  winding 
manner  up  the  side  of  a  hill,  in  order  to  obtain  a  favour- 
able view  of  the  island.  About  half-way  up  we  found  a 
beautiful  clear  spring  shaded  with  trees,  and  in  fording 
the  tranquil  pool  formed  by  the  trickling  water,  I  noticed 
numbers  of  aquatic  beetles  of  the  genus  Cyclom  with 
shining,  polished,  pitch-black  elytra,  short,  broad  legs, 
formed  like  the  flattened  blades  of  paddles,  disporting  on 
the  surface  like  so  many  gigantic  whirl  wigs,  (Gyrinus 
natator,}  those  silvery-looking  little  insects  which  weave 
mystic  mazes  during  the  summer-time  in  the  ponds  of 


470  THE  JAPANESE. 

Europe.  Large  flocks  of  handsome  pigeons  were  com- 
mitting depredations  on  the  padi-fields ;  several  elegant 
and  showy-looking  Cetonits  (coleopterous  insects)  were 
flying  about  the  grass  on  the  summits  of  the  hills,  which 
were  peopled  moreover  by  thousands  of  those  singular 
long-headed  Orthoptera,  the  Truxalis,  beautiful  green 
Pliylloptera  with  large,  soft,  leaf-like  elytra,  and  an  odd- 
looking  Tropidinotus.  In  the  evening,  glow-worms  were 
exceedingly  numerous  in  all  parts  of  the  island.  In  the 
still,  calm  nights,  the  "diapason  of  the  deep"  lent  its 
powers  of  pleasing,  as  the  waves  idly  dashed  against  the 
rock-bound  coast,  and  very  soon  lulled  the  small  party, 
tired  with  their  days  rambling,  to  a  sound  sleep  on  the 
mats  and  grass  laid  for  them  on  the  ground. 

On  the  5th  of  August  we  were  anchored  in  Nangasaki 
Bay,  with  the  mountainous  country  covered  with  vegeta- 
tion, surrounding  us  on  all  sides.  The  hills  being  prettily 
surmounted  with  trees,  and  their  sides  beautifully  culti- 
vated in  terraces  after  the  Chinese  fashion,  together  with 
the  batteries  and  tents  for  the  troops  on  shore,  and  the 
surface  of  the  bay  swarming  with  imperial  guard-boats, 
fishing  craft,  and  pleasure  boats,  gave  an  air  of  great 
vivacity  and  novelty  to  the  scene.  The  gentlemen  of 
Japan  were  most  polite  and  courteous  in  their  manners, 
conducting  themselves  with  refined  and  polished  urbanity, 
and  walking  about  with  a  solemn  and  respectful  de- 
meanour, putting  to  shame  the  ill-breeding  of  the  seamen 
who  ventured  to  laugh  at  them.  When  they  meet  one 
another,  they  close  the  hands,  bring  them  together  at  the 
knees,  and,  bending  the  body,  make  a  very  graceful  bow. 
Their  curiosity  and  desire  for  information  was  very  great. 


THE  JAPANESE.  471 

Many  among  them  spoke  Dutch,  and  some  a  little  French. 
They  appeared  to  be  very  well  acquainted  with  geography, 
and  pointed  out  their  three  principal  islands,  (which  they 
pronounce  Kew-Sew,  Nipung,  and  Sikok,)  on  the  map 
with  the  greatest  ease.  Some  of  them  seemed  to  be  well 
conversant  with  guns  and  gunnery ;  others  could  even 
master  a  few  words  of  English.  When  I  offered  an  old 
gentleman  who  paid  us  a  visit  in  the  midshipman's  berth 
a  penknife,  he  said  very  distinctly,  "  I  must  not;"  although 
no  compunction  of  that  nature  was  manifested  when  eat- 
ables and  drinkables  were  in  question.  Those  of  more 
respectable  appearance,  and  who  were  doubtless  inter- 
preters sent  off  as  spies,  were  all  furnished  with  writing 
materials.  Their  "  Yahtati,"  or  inkstands,  were  very 
compact,  and  similar  in  principal  and  nearly  in  form  to 
the  ancient  Atramentaria  found  at  Pompeii,  and  in  use 
among  the  Greeks,  with  little  covers  to  keep  the  dust 
from  the  ink.  The  Japanese,  however,  had  the  advantage 
over  these,  in  being  provided  with  a  long  hollow  metallic 
handle,  in  which  the  pen  was  always  kept  in  readiness. 
Many  of  these  people  had  a  debauched  and  debilitated 
look.  Like  the  Loo-Chooans,  they  dress  in  long  loose 
robes  of  various  texture  and  colour,  secured  about  their 
middle  with  a  broad  sash,  in  which  among  the  upper 
orders  two  sabres  are  thrust.*  The  pattern  of  their  robes 
is  very  various,  blue  being  the  chief  and  favourite  colour; 
some  however  are  light  black,  some  buff  colour,  some 
chequered  black  and  white,  some  striped,  others  flowered, 
many  quite  plain,  some  marked  with  characters  on  the 
back,  others  with  various  circles  and  mysterious  hiero- 

*  Sec  Frontispiece. 


472  THE  JAPANESE. 

glyphic  devices,  each  doubtless  having  a  meaning  as  de- 
noting the  rank  of  the  wearer,  or  his  office ;  but  to  us 
they  were  quite  unintelligible.  Unlike  the  Loo-Chooans, 
however,  over  this  flowing  garment,  which  extends  as  low 
down  as  the  ankles,  the  Japanese  wear  a  large  loose  jacket, 
with  very  wide  sleeves,  which  reaches  as  far  as  the  knees. 
Like  those  of  Loo-Choo,  their  feet  are  protected  with 
sandals,  neatly  made  of  plaited  rice-grass,  and  their  socks 
either  black,  dark  blue,  or  white,  have  a  separate  com- 
partment for  the  great  toe,  like  the  Mandarins  of  Napa. 
Like  these  latter  they  go  bare-headed,  carry  their  short 
pipes  in  a  neat  case,  and  use  paper  pocket-handkerchiefs. 
Some  of  the  soldiers  wore  tight  pantaloons  and  gaiters. 

In  their  gait,  from  the  constant  practice  of  wearing 
sandals,  they  are  slouching  and  awkward.  The  head  is 
shaved  from  the  front  to  the  nape  of  the  neck,  the  hair  on 
the  sides  is  strained  upwards,  tied  at  the  top,  and  the 
ends  of  the  hairs  glued  together  by  grease  or  wax,  form- 
ing what  they  call  a  "  Kami,"  which  is  tied  in  two  places 
with  silver  wire,  and  brought  forward  on  the  bald  crown, 
thus  differing  somewhat  from  the  "  Kotuxa"  of  Loo-Choo, 
where  the  hair  is  secured  in  a  knot.  They  shave  the  cheek 
and  chin,  differing  also  in  this  particular  from  the  people 
of  Loo-Choo.  The  boatmen  and  lower  orders  are  nearly 
naked.  They  were  treated  with  disdain  by  most  of  the 
higher  classes,  who  would  not  allow  them  to  come  on 
board.  These  men  are  very  active  and  strong,  and  of  a 
much  browner  complexion  than  the  better  classes,  many 
of  whom  are  almost  white.  The  deep,  oblong,  sunken  eye 
of  China  is  common  among  these  men,  although  I  have 
seen  some  with  eyes  nearly  as  full  as  those  of  Europeans. 


JAPANESE  SHELLS.  473 

They  all  evinced  a  great  repugnance  to  having  their 
scimitars  withdrawn  from  their  sheaths,  and  showed  great 
aversion  when  questioned  about  the  operation  of  ripping 
up  the  belly  in  cases  of  honourable  suicide,  but  intimated 
that  the  short  straight  sword  was  the  one  employed,  and 
the  long  curved  one  for  fighting.  The  blades  of  these 
weapons  were  highly  tempered,  keen-edged,  and  beauti- 
fully wrought  with  figures.  The  sheaths,  in  numerous 
instances,  were  very  splendid.  Some  were  of  black  po- 
lished lacquer,  with  gold  figures  inlaid ;  others  of  shagreen, 
and  others  covered  with  various  devices  in  silver;  the  guards 
were  ornamented  in  an  equally  chaste  and  tasteful  man- 
ner. They  wear  the  sharp  edge  upwards,  the  reverse  of 
most  other  nations.  On  the  whole,  they  appear  from  all 
accounts  to  be  more  upright,  honourable,  and  at  the  same 
time  more  jealous  than  the  Chinese,  more  refined  and 
civilised  than  the  Koreans,  and  more  warlike  and  intellec- 
tual than  the  Loo-Chooans.  Many  of  the  arts  and  sci- 
ences have  arrived  at  considerable  excellence  among  them, 
more  particularly  those  of  an  imitative  character;  their 
manners  are  softened  and  polished  to  the  utmost  degree 
of  refinement ;  and  at  the  same,  if  Titsingh  and  others  are 
to  be  believed,  their  morals  are  at  a  very  low  ebb  indeed. 

Although  surrounded  by  the  imperial  guard-boats, 
which  watched  all  our  movements  with  a  jealous  vigilance, 
numbers  of  interesting  shells  were  procured  from  a  muddy 
bottom,  at  about  eight  fathoms  water,  by  dredging  under 
the  stern  and  in  the  ship,  both  coming  in  and  going 
out  of  the  bay.  Among  these  were  species  of  Nucula, 
Pandora,  Myadora,  Area,  Necera,  Anatina,  Mya,  and 
Cardium,  obtained  in  the  living  state ;  and  Balanm, 


474  VOLCANIC  ARCHIPELAGO. 

Venus,  Pullastra,  Tettina,  Pecten,  Ostrcea,  Modiolm,  and 
Lima,  in  a  dead  state.  Among  the  univalves  which  were 
obtained  in  a  living  condition,  were  Pleurotoma,  Clava- 
tula,  Cancellaria,  Terebra,  Murex,  and  Nassa ;  and  dead 
species  of  Cylichna,  Natica,  Miira,  Dolium,  BuH&a,  Te- 
rebellum,  Turritella,  and  Dentalium.  Altogether  the 
dredge  furnished  us  with  thirty-two  genera,  and  numer- 
ous species  of  Mollusks,  besides  Spatangus,  Asterias, 
Leucosia,  Matuta,  Echinus,  and  Sipunculm. 

On  our  passage  from  Nangasaki  to  Loo-Choo,  we  sailed 
through  a  small  archipelago  comparatively  unknown,  and 
consisting  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  conical  islands,  all  of 
them  evidently  being  the  tops  of  a  sunken  chain  of  vol- 
canic mountains,  some  of  them  still  in  an  active  state  of 
eruption,  vomiting  forth  smoke  in  large  volumes,  from 
terminal  craters  or  fissures  in  the  sides.  These  sub- 
marine mountains  must  be  very  steep  and  lofty,  for  quite 
close  to  the  shore  no  bottom  was  found  with  two  hun- 
dred fathoms  of  line.  On  one  islet,  named  "  Disaster," 
on  account  of  the  upsetting  of  the  Captain's  gig  and  loss 
of  numerous  valuable  instruments,  hundreds  of  the 
amphibious  Sulla  viridis  of  Rang,  or  B.  calyculata  of 
Sowerby,  were  discovered  crawling  on  the  surface  of  the 
rock,  a  little  way  removed  from  the  dashing  of  the 
waves.  On  some  few  of  these  sterile  meteoric  islands 
goats  were  seen  hanging  from  the  flanks  and  browsing 
on  the  scanty  herbage;  and  these,  mixed  with  a  few  Sweet- 
potatoes,  would  seem  to  constitute  the  food  of  a  few  poor 
miserable  wretches  of  the  human  species,  who  have  most 
probably  been  banished  to  these  inhospitable  shores  from 
Japan  or  Loo-Choo,  and  who  here  contrive  to  maintain 


NEW  GENUS  OP  MOLLUSKS.  475 

a  precarious  existence  on  roots  and  goats'-flesh.  They 
are  not,  however,  sufficiently  versed  in  geologic  lore  to 
understand  on  what  ticklish  ground  they  tread,  or  that  they 
stand  a  chance  of  being  one  day  either  burnt  or  drowned. 

The  Mollusk  that  constructs  the  shell  of  Sulla  viridis, 
Rang,  would  appear  to  form  the  type  of  a  new  genus, 
which  may  be  thus  characterised.  Smaragdinetta  :  body 
oval,  and  somewhat  depressed;  lateral  lobes  moderate, 
reflexed,  covering  a  small  portion  of  the  sides  of  the  shell, 
opened  and  produced  in  front,  and  rounded  posteriorly 
where  they  are  continuous  with  the  foot ;  foot  moderate, 
rounded  before  and  behind ;  head-disc  five-sided,  narrow 
and  notched  behind,  rather  broader  on  each  side  in  front, 
flattish  above,  with  two  small  tubercular  tentacles  in  front 
of  the  central  eyes,  which  are  round,  black,  sessile,  and 
placed  rather  wide  apart.  Shell  partly  external  and 
naked  above,  with  the  body  whorl  turned  inwards,  open, 
and  forming  a  very  peculiar,  shallow,  cup-shaped  process, 
which  renders  it  quite  different  from  other  Bullidce. 

The  animal  of  Sulla  viridis  of  Rang,  or  the  Sulla 
calyculata  of  Sowerby,  is  figured  in  the  Voyage  of  the 
Astrolabe  (t.  26,  f.  13.)  In  that  figure  are  correctly  repre- 
sented the  peculiar  prolongation  of  the  lateral  lobes  for- 
wards, the  square-shaped  cephalic  disc,  and  the  two 
round  sessile  eyes ;  but  in  the  animals  1  examined  there 
were  observed  the  rudiments  of  two  tentacular  processes, 
situated  anterior  to  the  eyes.  The  head-disc  in  this  genus, 
as  in  other  Bullida,  occasionally  assumes  various  forms 
according  to  the  will  of  the  animal,  being  either  deeply 
indented  in  front  with  lateral  sharp  projecting  angular 
processes,  or  rounded  lobes,  or  very  much  produced  in 


476  NEW  GENUS  OF  MOLLUSKS. 

front,  forming  an  elongated  finger-shaped  process,  which 
it  employs  as  an  exploring  organ.  The  lateral  lobes  in  like 
manner  may  vary  in  their  outline,  tapering  in  front  to 
form  on  either  side  a  salient  angle  which  curves  outwards, 
or  a  portion  of  the  thin  margin,  which  partially  overlaps 
the  shell,  is  produced  into  a  rounded  lobe  or  process ;  the 
two  lateral  lobes  are  continuous  behind,  and  may  extend 
much  more  beyond  the  shell  and  posterior  lobe  than  is 
represented  in  M.  Uang's  figure.  The  Sulla  smaragdina 
of  Lewkart,  which  is  formed  into  a  genus  by  Ehrenberg, 
under  the  name  of  Cryptocephalus  olivaceus  (Symbols 
physicae  Mollusc  Tab.  1,  f.  4),  is  totally  distinct  from 
Smaragdinella  viridis.  Smaragdinella  is  amphibious  and 
entirely  marine,  crawling  slowly  on  rocks  immediately 
above  the  ripple  of  the  sea.  The  animal  of  Smarag. 
viridis  is  dark  olive-green,  speckled  and  mottled  with  a 
yet  darker  shade ;  the  margins  of  the  foot,  those  of  the 
lateral  lobes,  and  of  the  head-disc  are  of  a  lighter  green  ; 
and  the  eyes  are  black. 


477 


CHAPTER  IX. 

BOENEO. 

Indian  Butterfly-flower — Mangrove,  Casuarina,  and  other  trees — Bird- 
catching  plant  —  Curious  Tree-louse  —  Nidification  of  Pigeons — 
New  Bulimus — Wasps'  and  Ants'  nests — Borneon  Mammifera — 
Haunts  of  Molluscous  animals — Their  Habits — Localities  of  certain 
fresh-water  species — Habits  of  Crustaceans — Singular  larvae — In- 
stincts and  varied  forms  of  Spiders — Visit  Kabatuan — Muda  Mo- 
hammed— The  Dusuns — Molluscous  animals. 

IN  the  course  of  our  survey  of  the  north-west  coast  of 
Borneo,  including  Abai,  the  river  of  which  is  said  to  com- 
municate with  the  waters  of  Kini  Balu  lake  ;  Tampassook, 
the  noted  haunt  of  Illanon  pirates  ;  Kabatuan,  which  has 
the  brother  of  Muda  Hassim  for  Rajah ;  and  Ambong, 
peopled  chiefly  by  Bajows  or  sea-gipsies,  we  obtained 
several  interesting  forms,  more  particularly  from  that 
southern  portion  of  the  Chinese  Sea,  which  washes  this 
part  of  the  Borneon  coast. 

Balambangan  is  a  very  flat  and  most  unwholesome 
looking  island,  covered  in  a  great  part  of  its  extent  with 
Mangroves  and  Casuarinas,  and  in  parts,  where  fresh- 
water pools  occur,  overrun  with  pitcher-plants  (Nepenthes 
destillatoria) .  The  Phaleenopsis  amabilis  or  Indian  But- 
terfly plant,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  was  in  full  flower. 


478  TREES. 

This  lovely  epiphyte,  which  is  considered  one  of  the 
choicest  and  most  splendid  of  the  Orchidaceous  family, 
grows  in  thick  clustering  masses,  on  the  bark  of  the 
trees ;  and  I  have  seen  as  many  as  twenty-five  large 
white  satiny  blossoms  on  a  single  raceme,  constituting  a 
most  gorgeous  floral  plume,  and,  contrasting  with  the 
dark-green  foliage  over  which  it  hangs,  forming  one  of  the 
most  lovely  objects  in  the  world  of  plants.  Large  tracts 
of  the  island  are  fringed  with  Casuarina  trees  of  rather 
small  dimensions,  but  I  am  unable  to  say  of  what  species. 

The  Casuarina  equisetifolia  sufficiently  indicates  the 
peculiar  appearance  of  the  foliage  of  those  showy -looking 
feathery  trees  that  are  usually  seen  stretching  along  many 
parts  of  the  coast  of  Borneo,  more  particularly  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  mouths  of  rivers  where  the  ground  lies 
low.  These  trees  are  dioecious,  and  produce  small  woody 
cones,  which,  together  with  their  horsetail-like  leaves, 
remind  one  of  pine-trees,  and  may  perhaps  be  considered 
the  representatives  of  the  Conifers  in  tropical  regions. 

Another  tree,  the  name  of  which  so  repeatedly  occurs 
in  the  pages  of  travellers,  is  the  Mangrove,  which  renders 
hundreds  of  miles  uninhabitable  by  man.  There  are  two 
species  of  Mangrove  common  in  Borneo  :  one  of  which, 
the  Rhizojphora  Gymnorkiza,  is  a  very  tall  and  handsome 
tree,  with  leathery  leaves  growing  in  radiated  tufts  at  the 
ends  of  the  branches;  and  with  very  singular-shaped 
elongated  fruit,  which  falls  down  into  the  mud,  where  it 
sticks  with  its  sharp  point  buried,  and  thus  becomes  a 
young  tree.  I  have  seen  many  acres  covered  with  these 
strange  pointed  young  Mangroves,  in  every  stage  of  deve- 
lopment. The  roots  of  this  kind  of  Ehizophora  appear 


TREES.  479 

above  the  ground,  giving  the  specific  name  of  Gymnorliiza 
to  the  tree ;  those  of  a  single  individual  sometimes  ex.- 
tend  in  a  complicated  series  of  loops  and  arches  over  a 
considerable  space  of  ground,  offering  secure  retreats  for 
myriads  of  Gelasimi,  jumping  fish,  mosquitoes,  and  other 
animals  that  love  to  frequent  the  low  swampy  banks  of 
rivers.  This  species  ordinarily  affects  fresh  water ;  but 
near  the  sea,  and  often  fringing  the  low  islets  that  extend 
along  the  coast  in  many  parts  is  another  kind,  the  Rhizo- 
phora  Mangle,  which  is  a  much  lower  tree,  with  smaller 
leaves  and  a  fruit  differently  shaped,  which  by  means 
of  its  twisted  matted  roots  forms  excellent  break -waters, 
binding  together  the  loose  soil  and  shingle,  and  thus 
effectually  preventing  the  encroachments  of  the  sea  among 
these  low  islands. 

The  Aquilaria  Agalloclia  is  one  of  the  most  common 
trees  in  the  forests  skirting  the  sea.  It  is  a  very  large 
showy-looking  tree,  with  the  veins  of  the  oval  polished 
leaves  running  from  the  mid-rib  to  the  margin,  like  those 
of  some  Endogens,  so  that  there  can  be  no  difficulty  in 
distinguishing  it.  The  wood  is  frequently  used  by  the 
Chinese,  but  is  not  very  durable ;  it  yields  the  Lignum 
Aloes  of  commerce,  and  has  faint  medicinal  qualities.* 
Another  very  common  plant  is  the  Coculus  cordifolius, 
with  its  long  filiform  pendent  stems,  which  hang  sus- 
pended from  the  tops  of  the  high  forest-trees,  producing 
a  singular  effect  when  they  are  numerous.  The  Malays 
employ  some  of  the  species  of  the  genus  Coculus  in  the 

*  The  Agila  wood,  the  produce  of  this  tree,  enters  extensively  into 
the  composition  of  the  -Toss-sticks  employed  by  the  Chinese  in  their 
religious  ceremonies. 


480  REMARKABLE  PLANT. 

cure  of  intermittent  fever,  and  it  is  said  with  much  be- 
nefit. The  Coculus  Indieus  of  commerce,  the  seeds  of 
which  are  used  to  adulterate  beer,  belongs  to  quite  a 
different  genus,  the  Anamirta.  I  have  frequently  col- 
lected berries  which  leave  almost  an  indelible  yellow  stain 
on  the  fingers,  and  have  no  doubt  many  valuable  vege- 
table dyes  yet  remain  to  be  discovered  in  Borneo.  The 
men  frequently,  during  watering  and  wooding,  stained 
their  hands  with  a  yellow  sap,  perhaps  that  of  the  Termi- 
nalia  Chebula.  The  smooth,  black,  shining  nuts  of  the 
Semecarpus  Anacardium,  yield  a  juice  which  produces  an 
indelible  stain,  and  forms  much  better  marking  ink  than 
the  caustic  usually  employed  for  that  purpose. 

At  Pulo  Tiga,  Sir  Edward  Belcher  discovered  a  spe- 
cies offisonia,  a  plant  remarkable  for  having  the  perianth 
surrounding   the  fruit   covered  with   hooks   and  viscid 
glands,  and  the  inflorescence  being  in  loose  pannicles 
and  covering  the  tops  of  large  bushes,  birds  frequently 
become  involved  among  the  branches,  and  while  feeding 
on  the  fruit  get  caught  by  the  sharp  recurved  hooks, 
assisted  by  the  viscid  secretion  which  acts  like  birdlime. 
Many  old  forest-trees  in  Borneo,  where  the  soil  is  super- 
ficial, unable  to  sustain  the  weight  of  their  wide-spread 
leafy  crowns,  and  deprived  of  that  sheet-anchor  the  tap- 
root, throw  out  strong  butresses  from  their  sides  in  the 
shape  of  wing-shaped  masses,  which  extend  in  various 
directions,    and   maintain   the   perpendicularity   of   the 
trunks.     Crawling  slowly  on  the  leaves  in  the  forest  of 
Balambangan,  is  found  a  very  remarkable  form  oiAcarides, 
allied  in  many  respects  to  the  genus  Ixodes.     It  is  about 
half  an  inch  in  length ;  the  back  is  covered  with  rounded 


NIDIFICATION  OF  PIGEONS.  481 

elevations  very  symmetrically  disposed,  and  nearly  con- 
cealed by  a  mealy  efflorescence,  which  when  rubbed  off, 
leaves  the  surface  smooth  and  of  a  light  red-brown  ;  the 
under  surface  is  smooth,  and  of  a  pale  brown ;  the  legs 
are  very  short,  and  the  eyes  are  invisible.  A  remarkable 
form  of  Arachnidans,  a  species  of  Macrocheles,  with  a 
hard  flat  body,  of  a  reddish-brown  colour,  with  a  straw- 
coloured  head,  is  also  to  be  met  with  on  this  island. 

On  the  21st  of  March,  1846,  the  day  on  which  we 
received  orders  for  England,  I  landed  on  a  small  islet 
between  Banguey,  or  more  properly  Banggi,  and  Balam- 
bangan.  The  ground  was  partially  clear  among  the  trees, 
and  studded  with  a  very  elegant  species  of  Pandanus,  on 
the  crown-shaped  bunches  of  the  leaves  of  which,  numbers 
of  large  blue  Pigeons  had  built  their  nests,  consisting  of 
a  mass  of  leaves  and  earth,  rudely  put  together.  Each 
nest  contained  two  large,  oval,  milk-white  eggs,  and  I 
observed  that  the  young  ones  sometimes  tumbled  over  the 
edge  of  the  platform,  which  performed  the  office  of  cradle, 
and  that  the  old  birds  did  not  seem  to  have  the  power  or 
sagacity  to  pick  them  up  again.  I  noticed  the  mother  of 
one  of  these  unfortunate  outcasts,  tenderly  caressing  and 
offering  it  food,  while,  in  other  parts,  several  callow 
nurslings  were  lying  dead  upon  the  ground.  All  day 
the  adult  birds  remain  concealed  among  the  dense  clouds 
of  foliage,  high  up  above  their  nests  in  the  Pandanus 
trees,  while  their  monotonous  cooing  serves  as  a  lullaby 
to  their  little  ones  ;  but  towards  the  cool  of  the  evening, 
these  Pigeons  take  their  departure  in  large  flocks,  and 
proceed  direct  to  the  forests  of  Banguey,  whence  they  return 
with  their  crops  distended  with  green  berries,  and  other 

VOL.  II.  2  I 


482  NEW  BULIMUS. 

fruits,  among  which  I  noticed  young  Guavas  and  the  wild 
nutmeg. 

Arboreal  Cyclostomata,  of  elegant  form,  and  covered 
with  delicate  markings,  were  observed  crawling  on  the 
long  Pandanus  leaves ;  a  small,  flat,  yellow  Helicina  was 
found  adhering  to  their  under  surface ;  and  a  single  spe- 
cimen of  Nanina  was  obtained.  A  tree,  partially  cut 
through  at  the  base  with  axes,  fell  upon  one  of  the  car- 
penters wooding  on  the  island,  and  besides  depriving  him 
at  the  time  of  sensation,  inflicted  a  severe  wound  on  the 
temple.  What  proved  a  misfortune  to  the  man,  how- 
ever, presented  to  science  a  new  and  very  beautiful 
species  of  Bulimus,  which  I  discovered  in  considerable 
numbers,  adhering  to  the  foliage  of  the  prostrate  tree. 
This  species,  which  has  been  named  Bulimus  Adamsii  by 
Mr.  Lovell  Reeve,  is  of  a  pale  yellow,  with  the  base  of 
the  columellar  lip  of  a  violet  colour,  a  chain  of  oval  spots 
of  the  same  colour  winding  round  the  convexity  of  the 
body  whorl,  and  running  between  the  convolutions  of  the 
spire  as  far  as  the  apex ;  the  shell  is  reversed,  and  the 
markings  vary  in  almost  every  individual,  some  being 
nearly  covered  with  spots,  and  others  being  entirely  of  a 
pale  straw  colour. 

Naninte  are  very  lively  animals,  living  high  up  among 
the  foliage  of  the  trees;  they  have  the  cloak  produced  in 
front  and  divided  into  two  rounded  lobes,  and  the  poste- 
rior extremity  of  the  foot  truncated  and  provided  with  a 
remarkable  gland.  There  are  four  tentacles,  and  the  well 
developed  eyes  are  placed  at  the  extremities  of  the  longest 
pair.  Extending  along  the  lower  margin  of  the  foot,  is  a 
singular  border  formed  of  deep  vertical  striae ;  the  poste- 


WASPS'  NESTS.  483 

rior  part  of  the  foot  is  marked  with  straight  lines  directed 
backwards,  while  the  anterior  is  finely  tesselated  as  in  the 
bodies  of  common  snails.  Under  the  name  of  Vitrina, 
Quoy  (Voy.  Astrol.  t.  2,  fig.  1,  2,  8,  5,  16,)  has  given 
several  figures  of  this  genus,  which  was  established  by 
Mr.  Gray.  The  species  observed  by  me  was  of  a 
pinkish-white  colour,  and  brownish-red  towards  the  ante- 
rior part  and  end  of  the  tail.  The  animal,  like  the  shell, 
was  very  delicate  and  semipellucid.  The  shell  was  faint 
flesh  colour,  with  a  crimson  stripe  following  the  suture  of 
the  body  whorl. 

Attached  sideways,  by  a  slender  peduncle,  to  the  under 
surface  of  the  long  leaves  of  the  Pandanus  trees,  with 
which  as  I  have  said  the  interior  of  this  pretty  little  islet 
abounded,  were  numbers  of  wasps'-nests,  belonging  to  a 
species  of  Polistes,  and  beautifully  fashioned  of  a  paper- 
like  material.  They  consisted  of  several  tiers  of  cells  of 
the  usual  hexagonal  form,  with  their  mouths  directed 
downwards  and  to  one  side,  and  increasing  in  number  as 
they  receded  from  the  point  of  attachment,  thus  rendering 
the  nests  of  a  conical  shape.  In  each  cell  reposed  a  fat 
white  larva,  somewhat  doubled  up,  with  its  head  down- 
wards, and  to  one  side.  Some  of  the  cells  were  covered 
with  a  lid  and  were  full  of  honey,  but  whether  the  larvae 
could  get  at  it  appeared  to  me  somewhat  problematical, 
unless  their  careful  mothers  fed  them,  like  sparrows  and 
pigeons  do  their  little  ones.  I  noticed  two  kinds  of  ants'- 
nests  on  the  island,  one  species  of  the  size  of  a  man's 
hand  adhering  to  the  trunk  of  trees,  resembled,  when 
cut  through,  a  section  of  the  lungs ;  the  other  was 
composed  of  small  withered  bits  of  sticks  and  leaves, 


484  BORNEON  MAMMIFERS. 

heaped  up  in  the  axils  of  branches,  somewhat  in  the  form 
of  flattened  cylinders  and  compressed  cones. 

As  might  naturally  be  expected  from  the  circumstance  of 
the  island  comprising  the  vast  chain  of  the  Oriental  Archi- 
pelago lying  within  the  tropics,  the  equinoctial  line  extend- 
ing nearly  through  the  centre,  the  animals  peculiar  to  the 
entire  group  partake  of  a  certain  uniformity  of  character ; 
many  islands  having,  however,  certain  well  marked  varieties 
of  animals  peculiar  to  their  own  Fauna.  Borneo,  like  the 
other  islands,  may  be  said  to  bear  the  same  relation  in  its 
animal  and  vegetable  productions  to  India,  as  the  West 
Indian  Islands  do  to  America ;  but  Borneo,  occupying  a 
more  central  position  between  the  zoological  regions  of 
Hindostan  and  Malacca  on  the  one  hand,  and  of  Australia 
on  the  other,  has  more  large  quadrupeds  than  New  Guinea, 
but  at  the  same  time  fewer  forms  which  are  peculiar  to 
the  Australian  Fauna.  The  Dutch,  however,  have  ascer- 
tained the  existence  of  several  species  of  those  anomalous 
mammals,  the  Tree  Kangaroos  (Dendrolegus]  in  Borneo, 
the  Pteromys  will  represent  Petaurista,  and  I  have  seen  a 
small  Gerbil  which  might  represent  the  Kangaroos  on  the 
one  hand,  and  the  Gerbillus  Indicus  on  the  part  of  Hin- 
dostan. Herds  of  Elephants  are  stated  to  tramp  the  vast 
unexplored  forests  of  the  promontory  of  Unsang,  although 
during  our  visits  to  that  part  of  the  coast  no  traces  of 
those  huge  Pachyderms  were  reported  to  have  been  seen ; 
but  as  the  Elephant  has  been  found  in  Sumatra,  and  as 
the  Indian  Tapir  exists  in  Borneo,  the  probability  is  that 
the  Elephant  may  some  day  be  discovered.  The  researches 
of  Messrs.  Diard,  Korthals,  and  Miiller,  have  ascertained 
the  existence  of  a  species  of  Rhinoceros,  but  it  is  uncertain 


BORNEON  MAMMIFERS.  485 

whether  it  belongs  to  the  two-horned  species  of  Sumatra, 
or  the  one-horned  species  found  in  Java ;  the  Leopard  of 
Borneo  appears  to  be  the  Felis  macrocelis,  although  the 
existence  of  a  much  larger  carnivorous  quadruped  may 
be  inferred  from  the  long  sharp  canine  teeth  worn  in  the 
ears  of  the  Orang  Sagai,  and  which  appeared  to  me  to 
have  belonged  to  an  animal  nearly  as  large  as  the  Royal 
Tiger,  a  variety  of  which,  indeed,  is  found  both  in  Java 
and  Sumatra.  The  Dyaks,  in  explaining  their  mode  of 
killing  this  tiger  by  surrounding  him  in  great  numbers, 
and  then  shooting  him  with  sumpits  or  poisoned  arrows, 
described  him  as  being  large  and  fierce,  and  living  among 
the  mountains.  Mr.  Brooke  has  ascertained  the  exist- 
ence of  three  species  of  Orang  Utans  in  Borneo;  namely, 
the  Simla  Wurmbii  or  Mias  Pappan,  the  Simia  Morio  or 
the  Mias  Kassar,  and  the  Mias  Rambi,  which  he  states  is 
either  the  Simia  Abelii,  or  a  fourth  species ;  he  observes, 
moreover,  that  "  the  existence  of  the  Sumatran  Orang  in 
Borneo  is  by  no  means  impossible."  The  Wou-Wou  of 
Borneo  is  of  a  darker  colour  than  the  Javanese  species, 
and  has  been  named  Hylobates  concolor  or  H.  Harlanii; 
it  is  represented  in  India  by  the  Great  Gibbon  or  Hylo- 
bates  albimanus.  Among  other  quadrumanous  animals 
peculiar  to  this  great  island,  may  be  mentioned  the 
Semnopithecus  nasicm  or  Proboscis  Monkey,  the  Semn. 
auratus  and  Semn.  cristatus,  and  the  Inuus  nemestrinus; 
Borneo  swarms,  however,  with  monkeys,  among  which 
doubtless  are  many  undescribed  species.  The  Tarsius 
or  the  Didelphis  macrolarsus  of  Gmelin,  is  an  inhabitant 
of  this  island,  thereby  connecting  it  to  the  Fauna  of 
the  Moluccas  ;  and  Sciurus  bicolor,  S.  niyromttatus,  S. 


486  QUADRUPEDS  OF  BORNEO. 

escilis,  and  S.  melanotis,  together  with  several  kinds  of 
Tupaias  are  also  found.  At  the  northern  extremity  we 
observed  large  numbers  of  a  great  deer  which  came 
down  to  drink  at  the  pools  of  brackish  water  that 
abound  there,  most  probably  identical  with  the  Cervus 
hippelaphus  of  Cuvier,  which  is  also  found  in  India ; 
the  Antelopes  of  that  continent  are  represented  by 
the  Pigmy  Musk,  (Moschus  Javanicus,}  a  diminutive  and 
graceful  little  animal,  which  bears  the  same  relation  to  the 
poetry  of  Malayan  Asia,  as  the  Gazelle  does  to  that  of 
Persia  and  Arabia.  The  Bovine  races  which  inhabit 
India,  as  the  Bos  frontalis  or  Gaour,  and  the  Ami  or 
wild  Buffalo  of  Hindostan,  are  represented  in  Borneo  by 
herds  of  wild  cattle,  which  so  far  as  I  could  make  them 
out  at  Point  Sampang  Mengayu,  where  they  are  very 
numerous,  have  short  curved  horns,  long  legs,  small  dew- 
laps, and  a  straight  back;  the  domestic  Ox  which  I  have 
also  seen  is  perfectly  different,  and  owes  its  descent  most 
probably  from  the  Zebu,  as  the  wild  one  does  from  the 
Arni.  That  striking  resemblances  can  be  made  between 
the  Faunas,  not  of  northern  or  central  Asia,  but  of  Hin- 
dostan and  Malacca,  is  not  to  be  very  much  wondered  at, 
when  we  consider  that  the  chain  of  the  Great  Indian 
Archipelago  is  nothing  more  than  a  long,  curved,  disjointed 
mass  of  land  broken  by  volcanic  force  from  the  south- 
eastern portion  of  the  Asiatic  continent,  and  separated 
merely  by  the  superficial  waters  of  the  China  Sea.  The 
breed  of  small  and  wolf-like  dogs  employed  by  the  Dyaks 
in  hunting  the  boar,  are  stated  to  occur  in  a  wild  state, 
thus  representing  the  Dingo  of  Australia,  and  the  Canis 
rutilans,  or  Wild-dog  of  the  Mountains  of  Asia.  Sumatra 


QUADRUPEDS  OF  BORNEO.  487 

has  a  wild  dog,  the  Canis  Sumatranus,  as  has  likewise 
Java,  Canis  Javanicus ;  the  Borneon  variety  may  in  like 
manner  be  termed  Canis  Borneoensis.  The  Fiverra 
zibetka,  Paradoxurus  typm,  Sus  barbatus,  and  the  Cercopi- 
thecns  cynomolgm  may  also  be  enumerated  among  the 
Mammalia  of  this  vast  island,  and  the  list  might  easily  be 
extended.  The  Stenops  tardigradus  is  possibly  repre- 
sented in  Asia  by  the  Slow  Lemur  of  Bengal;  the  Sciurus 
bicolor  is  also  found  in  India,  and  the  same  may  be  said 
of  the  Pteropi,  Ichneumons,  and  Bats.  The  war-dresses 
of  the  Sagai  Dyaks  consisted  in  numerous  instances  of 
the  dried  skins  of  large  Felinae,  on  the  ears  of  many  of 
which  I  observed  tufts  of  hair  like  those  of  a  lynx.  At 
Kabatuan  some  of  the  women  wore  necklaces  or  amulets, 
formed  of  the  scales  of  the  Pangolin  or  Manis  pentadac- 
tyla,  which  in  India  is  represented  loyManis  crassicaudata; 
the  Helarctos  Malayanus,  a  small  Bear,  is  found  both  in 
Borneo  and  on  the  Malayan  Peninsula.  One  of  these  ani- 
mals paid  us  a  visit  at  the  encampment  at  Sarawak,  but 
although  hotly  pursued  and  fired  at,  contrived  to  escape 
unscathed  into  the  jungle;  on  another  occasion,  I  found 
myself  face  to  face  with  an  individual  of  the  same  species, 
which  on  seeing  me,  trotted  leisurely  away. 

At  the  village  of  Kabatuan,  I  noticed  a  very  fine 
specimen  of  the  red-necked  Ichneumon  (Herpestes  semi- 
torquafus);  it  was  quite  tame  in  the  house  of  one  of  the 
principal  Pangerans,  but  although  I  affected  to  admire  it 
exceedingly,  the  old  gentleman  did  not  seem  inclined  to 
part  with  it;  and  on  the  mountain  of  Serambo,  the  Dyaks 
brought  us  a  living  specimen  of  a  beautiful  little  squirreL 
no  larger  than  a  Dormouse,  the  Sciurus  wills ;  it  was 


488  LOCALITIES  OF  MOLLUSCA. 

perfectly  mild  and  docile,  but  soon  pined  away  and  died. 
In  many  parts  of  Borneo,  Celebes,  or  indeed  any  of  the 
islands  of  the  Oriental  Archipelago,  if  you  wander  along 
a  portion  of  the  coast,  where  from  a  steep  and  stony 
beach  beset  with  rocks,  a  level  sand-flat  extends  beyond 
for  a  long  distance,  and  is  bounded  seaward  by  a  barrier 
of  coral,  against  which  the  ocean  dashes  with  violence, 
and  forms  breakers  which  leap  tumultuously  over  and  fill 
numerous  small  ponds  on  the  inner  side, — if  you  wander 
along  this,  and  observe  with  the  curious  eye  of  a  Na- 
turalist, you  will  notice  various  generic  forms  of  Mollusks 
engaged  as  follows,  and  in  something  like  the  following 
order :  Herbivorous  Mollusks,  that  live  upon  the  Fuel  and 
Alga  covering  the  rocks  and  stones,  come  first ;  Purpura 
and  Littorina,  pretty  brisk  at  certain  times,  and  busy 
grazing  as  the  day  closes  in  on  their  sea- weed  pastures  on 
the  exposed  rocks,  in  company  with  Nerites  with  painted 
backs,  marked  and  figured  with  every  variety  of  pattern ; 
while  Chiton,  Murex,  Doris,  and  Rissoa,  more  timid  and 
retiring,  or  more  dull  of  disposition,  hide  under  or  adhere 
to  the  surface  of  the  stones,  Nature  having  so  closely 
assimilated  their  forms,  in  many  instances,  to  the  stones, 
and  their  colours  to  the  cryptogamic  plants  that  surround 
them,  as  to  make  them  invisible  to  the  eyes  of  their 
enemies.  To  these  individuals  which  enjoy  the  blessings 
of  limited  locomotion,  may  be  added  those  more  inert 
members  of  the  great  Molluscous  family,  Siphonaria, 
Patella  and  Vermetus;  those  Crustacean  forms  Conia  and 
Halanus,  which  are  fixed  upon  the  exposed  rock-masses ; 
and  Policipen,  Mytilus,  Ostrcea  and  Byssoarca,  which  are 
stuck  fast  in  the  crevices,  or  safely  anchored  in  clefts  and 


LOCALITIES  OF  MOLLUSCA.  489 

anfractuosities.     Succeeding  these,  on  the  level  sandflat, 
you  will  notice  Natica  and  the  glossy  Olives,  partially 
covered  by  their  mantles,  leisurely  forming  burrows  in  the 
moist  soft  bed  on  which  they  spend  their  lives ;  gaily- 
coloured  Volutes,  and  apathetic  Mitres,  with  cloaks  be- 
grimed with  dirt,  crawling  about  with  a  slow  deliberate 
motion,  wherever  there  remains  a  little  water ;  and  when 
that  is  gone,  and  they  can  no  longer  enjoy  themselves, 
they  sink  into  the  yielding  sand,  generally,  if  possible, 
choosing  places  where  it  is  mixed  with  mud.    Then  come 
Buccinum,  the  large-footed  Bullia,  and  Nassa,  with  its 
bifid,  turned- up  tail,  considerably  more  lively  than  their 
last  mentioned  neighbours,  of  greater  latitude  in  their 
progressive  movements,  and  which  form  long   sinuous 
tracks  as  they  traverse  on  their  foot-like  bellies  the  loose 
saturated  sand;  Natica  and  Oliva  excavate  the  surface 
more  deeply  still,  and  move  in  burrows  underneath  the 
soil ;  while  Venus,  Solen,  and  the  light-shelled  Mactra  per- 
forate obliquely  the  loose  and  moistened  sand.     At  dead 
low  water,  among  huge  stony  madrepores  and  branching 
corals  that  serve  to  form  the  barrier-reef  and  break-water 
to  protect  those  Mollusks  that  live  inside  and  love  calm 
water,  may  be  found  embedded  in  their  substance  Litho- 
domm   and  Pholas,  Magilus  and  Lcptoconchus,  snugly 
lodged  in  their  calcareous  dwellings,  secure  from  every 
foe;  Haliotis  will  be  found  clinging  to  loose  stones,  or 
crawling  over  and  under  them,  exposed  ever  to  the  raging, 
roaring  surf ;  amid  the  rocky  beds,  Tridacna  rests  secure 
in  her  stony  house ;   Cypraa  cowering  in  the  deep  nooks; 
holes,  and  corners,  creeps  forth  cautiously  and  with  care, 
frequently  hiding  under  stones  so  rough  and  large,  that 


490  COWRIES. 

one  wonders  her  beautiful  porcellaneous  shell  is  not  more 
often  scratched  and  broken,  or  her  tender  mantle  torn  and 
bruised.  Here  also  Stomatia  loves  to  reside,  crawling 
with  deliberate  pace  among  the  branching  coral  trees ; 
but  polished  Stomatella  prefers  the  dead  banks  of  coral 
debris  within  the  reef,  hunting  in  company  with  Parmo- 
pliorus.  Outside  the  reef,  the  hand-dredge  will  furnish 
you  with  Marginetta,  Fusus,  Pleurotoma,  PJiorus,  Cla- 
vatula,  Strombus,  Triphoris,  and  Rostettaria,  the  first 
three  genera  affecting,  however,  much  shallower  water 
than  the  others.  In  very  deep  water,  Terebratula  and 
Cylichna,  Nucula  and  Necera,  will  be  met  with,  and  reward 
industrious  dredging  with  new  and  singular  forms.  In 
very  deep,  still  water  the  shells  are  noticed  to  be  very  thin 
and  delicate.  We  obtained  a  Fusus  off  the  Cape  in  135 
fathoms  and  from  a  soft,  muddy,  and  sandy  bottom,  with 
a  very  thin,  light,  fragile  shell,  and  a  brown  epidermis, 
covered  with  hair-like  appendages ;  and  a  new  species  of 
Tricotropis  was  dredged  also  in  deep  water  and  from  a 
muddy  bottom,  in  the  bay  of  Nangasaki,  Kiusu,  Japan. 
Although  I  have  examined  hundreds  of  Cyprcea  tigris  in 
a  living  state,  I  never  saw  those  changes  of  colour  in  the 
mantle  of  the  animal  noticed  by  Mr.  Stutchberry,  junior, 
who  moreover  states,  that  they  crawl  about  usually  ex- 
posed to  the  sun ;  while  the  result  of  my  experience  would 
lead  me  to  believe,  that  they  almost  invariably  lurk  in 
holes  of  rocks  or  under  loose  stones,  and  among  branch- 
ing coral.  The  species  of  Cypraa  vary  considerably  in 
colour,  thus  the  animal  o^Ci/preea  carneola  is  of  a  beautiful 
red  colour,  with  the  foot  and  mantle  covered  with  nu- 
merous opaque,  oval,  white  spots  ;  that  of  C.  talpa  is  of  a 


DEVELOPMENT  OF  CYPRJ3A.  491 

pale  brownish-black,  with  minute  whitish  specks  ;  that,  of 
C.  caput-serpentis  is  of  a  rich  green-brown ;  and  in 
C.  lynx  the  mantle  is  covered  with  numerous  tufts  of 
various  forms,  nodulous,  trifid,  or  ending  in  two  short 
processes ;  that  of  C.  Mauritania  has  conical  tubercles  ; 
of  C.  erosa,  numerous  rather  long  branching  arborescent 
appendages  ;  of  C.  moneta  with  but  few,  and  those  chiefly 
around  the  free  upper  edge  of  the  mantle  ;  while  in  some, 
these  processes  are  altogether  wanting.  In  Cypraa  an- 
nulus  the  siphon  is  of  a  dirty- white  colour,  the  tentacles 
orange,  the  eyes  black,  the  mantle  brown,  covered  with 
small  dark  spots,  the  foot  white,  with  black  reticulated 
markings.  In  Cyprcea  err  ones  the  mantle  is  light 
brown,  perfectly  smooth,  and  covered  with  dark  brown 
reticulations ;  the  foot  is  brown,  with  minute  white  spots; 
the  peduncle  of  the  eye  is  of  a  brilliant  white ;  the  head 
is  brown  ;  the  base  of  the  tentacles  is  a  dull  white  ;  the 
tentacles  beyond  the  eyes,  light  brown.  In  Quoy's  figure 
(Voy.  Astrol.  t.  48,  f.  18)  of  Cypraa  Isabella,  the  edge  of 
the  mantle  is  simply  lobed,  and  the  remainder  of  the 
surface  naked  and  void  of  appendages.  In  the  animal  of 
C.  errones  the  edge  of  the  cloak  forms  a  continuous 
slightly-waved  line,  and  the  surface  covering  the  shell  is 
perfectly  smooth,  and  adorned  only  with  the  delicate 
anastomosing  lines  mentioned  above. 

The  young  of  Cypraa,  when  first  they  issue  from  the 
ovum,  are  provided  with  two  membranous  alar  expansions, 
like  some  of  the  Pteropods,  and  a  delicate  hyaline,  simple, 
spiral,  flattened,  ear-shaped  shell,  which  fully  confirms  the 
observation  of  Professor  E.  Forbes,  who  observes,  speaking 
of  the  Gasteropoda  generally,  that  "they  all  commence  life 
under  the  same  simple  form,  both  of  shell  and  animal ; 


492  YOUNG  OF  CYPRJBA. 

namely,  a  very  simple  spiral  helicoid  shell,  and  an  animal 
furnished  with  two  ciliated  wings  or  lobes,  by  which  it  can 
swim  freely  through  the  fluid  in  which  it  is  contained."* 
This  forms  the  nucleus  of  the  Cowry  shell,  which  afterwards 
grows  and  undergoes  several  changes  in  form,  gradually 
becoming  more  and  more  complicated  until  the  outer  lip  is 
inverted  and  marked  with  numerous  sulci.  The  converse 
of  this,  however,  would  appear  to  take  place  in  other 
Gasteropoda,  as  shown  in  the  development  of  Dolabella, 
Aplysia,  and  others,  where  the  shell  at  first  turbinated 
and  nautiloid  in  shape,  afterwards  becomes  an  internal, 
flattened,  horny  plate.  On  placing  the  young  Cowries 
in  a  watch-glass  of  sea-water,  they  may  be  seen  to 
whirl  about  like  the  Hyalaea  and  Cleodora,  and,  like 
Atlanta,  to  adhere  when  fatigued  to  foreign  bodies,  not 
indeed  by  any  sucking  disc,  but  by  means  of  the  dilated 
expansion  of  their  mantle.  In  the  course  of  growth  these 
fleshy  expansions  become  entirely  absorbed,  and  do  not 
ultimately  constitute  the  lobes  of  the  mantle  which  em- 
brace and  partially  cover  the  shell  in  the  adult.  It  would 
constitute  an  interesting  enquiry  to  observe  the  transi- 
tions in  the  figure  of  the  animal  and  shell  throughout  the 
entire  series  of  Molluscous  groups,  as  I  am  convinced  that 
many  phases  exhibited  in  their  metamorphoses  would 
throw  new  light  not  only  on  the  identity  of  species,  but 
on  the  reality  of  the  existence  of  certain  genera. 

Rostellaria  has  all  the  habits  of  the  Strombidce,  pro- 
gressing by  means  of  its  powerful  and  elastic  foot  which 
it  places  under  the  shell  in  a  bent  position,  when  sud- 
denly, by  a  muscular  effort,  it  straightens  that  organ,  and 

*  Edin.  Phil.  Journal,  xxxvi.  p.  326. 


HABITS  OF  MOLLUSKS.  493 

rolls  and  leaps  over  and  over.  It  is,  however,  far  more 
timid  and  suspicious  than  Strombus,  which  has  a  bold  dis- 
dosition.  On  the  low  sandy  beach,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Lundu  River,  in  Borneo,  dead  shells  of  Rostettaria 
rectirohsis  are  numerous,  but  generally  in  a  very  imper- 
fect condition.  At  the  small  fishing  village  of  Samahrtan 
I  inspected  a  large  heap  of  these  shells,  which  the 
Malays  had  brought  together  for  the  purpose  of  turn- 
ing them  into  lime.  On  enquiring  of  these  poor  fisher- 
men whether  it  were  possible  to  obtain  them  in  a  living 
state,  we  were  informed  that  they  never  procured  them  in 
their  nets,  but  that  they  lived  in  deep  water  at  a  consider- 
able distance  from  the  shore.  The  animal  of  Rostettaria 
fissa  does  not  differ  from  that  of  Strombus,  and  is  of 
a  dull  brown  colour,  varied  with  lighter  brown.  It  is, 
however,  one  of  the  most  lively  among  Mollusks,  jumping 
several  inches,  and  throwing  itself  about  with  the  most 
astonishing  activity.  It  has  none  of  the  extreme  timidity 
of  the  former  mentioned  species. 

The  perfect  development  of  the  large,  fine,  pedunculated 
eyes  of  Strombus,  together  with  its  very  elongated,  power- 
ful, muscular  body  and  foot,  and  claw-shaped  stout,  jagged, 
horny  operculum,  constitute  it  one  of  the  most  active  and 
intelligent  of  Mollusks.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  most  sprightly  and 
energetic  animal,  and  often  served  to  amuse  me  by  its 
extraordinary  leaps  and  endeavours  to  escape,  planting 
firmly  its  powerful  narrow  operculum  against  any  resist- 
ing surface,  insinuating  it  under  the  edge  of  its  shell,  and 
by  a  vigorous  effort  throwing  itself  forwards,  carrying  its 
great  heavy  shell  with  it,  and  rolling  along  in  a  series  of 
jumps  in  a  most  singular  and  grotesque  manner. 


494          NUDIBRANCHIATE  MOLLUSKS. 

Among  new  and  interesting  forms  of  those  Molluscous 
animals  which  are  denied  any  calcareous  defence  in  the 
form  of  a  shell,  and  the  breathing  organs  of  which  are 
consequently  exposed,  hence  procuring  them  their  name, 
Nudibranchiata,  may  be  mentioned  two  new  species  of 
Dendronotus,  one  of  which  (D.  stettifer,  Adams  and  Reeve,) 
is  of  a  pale  flesh  colour,  marked  with  undulating  vertical 
vermilion  lines,  freely  anastomosing  towards  the  foot,  and 
the    veil  overhanging  the    head  provided  with  a   star- 
shaped  tentacular  appendage  on  either  side.     The  other 
species  of  this  curiously-shaped  genus  (D.  tenettus,  Adams 
and  Reeve,)  adheres  like  the  former  to  floating  Fuci; 
crawls  pretty  briskly,  and  swims,  when  detached,  by  lateral 
inflexions  of  the  body.     Among  the  Ttoridida,  the  Poly- 
cera  cornigera,  (Adams  and  Reeve,)  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  family,  the  body  being  of  a  pale  straw 
colour,  beautifully  marked  with  bright  vermilion,  which 
covers  entirely  the  dorsal  portion,  and  descends  in  nu- 
merous Vandykes  towards  the  foot ;  there  is  a  row  of 
bright  ultramarine  spots  on  the  anterior  tubercle,  and 
another  row  of  the  same  colour  extending  across  the  top 
of  the  head.     A  species  of  the  genus  Hexabranchus  of 
Ehrenberg,  which  I  have  named  H.  sanguinolentm,  is  also 
of  the  most  lovely  colours,  but  yet  is  made  to  yield  the 
palm  to  the  type  of  a  new  genus,  which  may  be  termed 
Heptabranchus,  and  which  I  have  dedicated,  by  permission, 
to  Sir  William  Burnett,  the  Medical  Director-General  of 
Hospitals  and  Fleets.     The  nearest  approach  to  this  pecu- 
liar form  of  Doridida3  (Heptabranchus  Burneltii,}  appears 
to  be  the  animal   named  Doris  Sandwichienne  of  the 
"Voyage  de  la  Bonite;"*  but  in  that  Mollusk  the  mantle 

*  Torn.  25,  f.  1,  2. 


HABITS  OF  MOLLUSKS.  495 

entirely  covers  the  foot,  whereas  in  this  type  the  foot  ex- 
tends beyond  the  mantle  and  behind  it  in  the  manner  of 
a  Goniodoris.  In  the  above-mentioned  figures  of  the 
Trench  Naturalists,  there  are  eight  distinct  branchial  tufts, 
but  in  this  animal  there  are  but  seven,  arranged  in  a  semi- 
circular manner  around  the  projecting  tubular  fecal  orifice, 
so  that  in  these  singular  Mollusks,  the  number  of  tufts 
that  constitute  the  branchiae  seems  to  vary ;  in  the  beau- 
tiful Hexabranclms  prcetextus  of  Ehrenberg,  (Symb.  Phys. 
Mollusc.  1. 1,  f.  1,  2,)  the  branchial  tufts  are  six  in  num- 
ber, and  emerge  from  six  distinct  apertures  around  the 
anal  orifice,  which,  as  in  Heptabranchus,  is  prominent 
and  tubular. 

Tropical  Assimineas  seldom  or  never  live  entirely  in  the 
water;  they  love  to  frequent  the  soft  muddy  banks  of 
shallow  ponds  in  shady  places,  or  to  crawl  among  the 
roots  of  high  grass  on  the  low  swampy  banks  of  rivers. 
The  Telescopium  lives  among  the  Mangrove-roots  in 
brackish  swamps,  where,  in  some  parts  of  the  day,  the 
water  entirely  recedes  and  leaves  the  mud  bare.  Miles  of 
muddy  ground  beyond  the  range  of  the  sea  at  high-water 
mark,  and  kept  moistened  by  dull  trickling  rivulets,  are 
planted  with  thousands  of  the  large  black  Telescopium, 
with  their  acuminated  spires  sticking  out  of  the  soil, 
while  the  body  and  head  of  the  animal  are  busily  engaged 
in  seeking  for  food  beneath  the  surface.  The  Terebralia 
of  Swainson  loves  the  water  more  than  the  Telescqpium, 
and  lives  nearer  the  sea  in  shallow  ponds,  and  still,  warm 
pools,  among  the  tangled  Mangrove-roots  in  the  society 
of  the  Q,uoyia,  or  Leucostoma  of  Swainson.  The  Nematura 
inhabits  very  shallow  water  in  still  and  half  stagnant 


496  HABITS  OF  MOLLUSKS. 

ponds,  adhering  generally  to  the  under  surface  of  dead 
and  decaying  leaves  that  float  suspended  in  the  water  near 
the  margin,  but  sometimes  I  have  found  them  crawling 
very  slowly  on  the  soft  muddy  banks,  forming  slender 
tracks,  as  Nassce  do,  in  crawling  over  the  moist  sand-flats 
near  the  sea.  Generally  speaking  the  Auricula  Juda 
inhabits  dark,  damp  woods,  choosing  the  vicinity  of 
water,  but  I  have,  however,  found  them  by  hundreds 
crawling  over  the  moist  mud  of  the  Mangrove  swamps. 
They  are  blind,  and  appear  to  be  most  active  in  the 
evening.  At  Monado,  in  Celebes,  a  species  of  Assiminea 
covers  the  perpendicular  banks  of  the  river;  the  mud-flats 
left  exposed  during  low  tide  are  covered  with  thousands 
of  Neritinas  and  Clithons :  Melanias,  of  the  long-spired 
division  live  in  the  mud  in  shallow  places  with  the  water 
just  covering  them;  while  Pirenas  inhabit  the  bed  of  the 
river  in  rather  deeper  water.  Some  Neritinas  found  by 
me  in  this  island,  live  among  the  foliage  of  tall  trees,  that 
overhang  ponds  and  rivulets;  others  cling  to  the  roots  of 
Nepa  palms  and  various  trees  near  the  margin;  others 
crawl  on  the  stones  in  the  water;  many  live  in  deeper 
water,  half-buried  in  the  mud;  a  few  in  brackish  water, 
and  others  again  in  water  perfectly  salt. 

Off  Tampassook,  several  Ixas  were  obtained  by  the 
dredge.  They  inhabit  very  deep  water,  are  feeble  and 
inactive,  and  were  it  not  for  the  dense  solid  carapace, 
armed  with  strong  lateral  processes  with  sharpened  points, 
would  be  very  defenceless  animals.  Two  new  species  of 
this  rare  and  beautiful  genus  have  been  added  by  us  to 
Zoology.  A  new  species  of  Parthenope,  with  large  eyes 
and  the  carapace  ornamented  with  tuberculated  ridges  was 


HABITS  OF  CRUSTACEANS.  497 

obtained.  This  genus  has  precisely  the  same  habits  as 
Lambrus,  Cryptopodia,  and  others,  simulating  death  when 
alarmed,  and  retracting  its  members  under  the  carapace. 
A  new  genus  the  Ceratocarcinus  (Adams  and  White)  was 
obtained  off  Balambangan  in  twelve  fathoms  of  water, 
having  the  same  helpless  appearance  and  inactivity  of 
habits,  as  Parthenope  and  Lambrus.  The  species  (C. 
longimanm,  A.  and  W.)  is  of  a  blood-red  colour  with  five 
light  bands  across  the  carapace.  The  Cosmonotus  (Adams 
and  White),  another  new  genus,  was  obtained  near  Unsang, 
on  the  east  coast  among  the  clear  sandy  pools  within  the 
reef-barrier.  It  has  the  same  habits  as  Hippa  and 
Remipes.  The  species  (C.  Grayii,  A.  and  W.)  is  of  a 
brick-dust  red  colour  and  scarlet,  minutely  speckled, 
with  white  legs  and  chelae.  The  Notopm  dorsipes  has 
the  same  habits,  and  the  Albunea,  like  the  Hippa,  seems 
also  to  prefer  the  still  water  just  within  coral  reefs,  or  the 
small  deep  pools  you  find  on  steep  rocky  shores.  Here 
they  swim  rather  rapidly  in  straight  lines  from  stone  to 
stone,  or  from  brink  to  brink,  when  they  usually  rest  or 
remain  quite  stationary.  They  seem  to  crawl  badly,  but 
dart,  like  some  spiders,  on  their  prey  from  among  the 
weeds,  or 

"  Under  rocks  their  food  in  jointed  armour  watch." 

The  Zcbrida,  a  new  genus  of  Mr.  White  and  myself, 
was  dredged  in  about  six  fathoms  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Pantai  river,  on  the  coast  of  Borneo.  It  is  a  torpid, 
though  elegant  little  Crustacean,  having  all  the  apathetic 
peculiarities  of  the  Lambrus  and  Parthenope.  The  species 

VOL.  II.  2    K 


498"  HABITS  OF  MOLLUSKS. 

(Z.  Adamsii,  White)  is  of  a  light  pink-colour  with  dark 
red-brown  longitudinal  stripes.  It  is  perfectly  smooth, 
polished,  and  hairless.  Lissocarcinus  and  Gonatonotus, 
two  other  new  Genera,  besides  numerous  new  species, 
were  likewise  obtained  along  this  coast. 

The  Chitons,  in  the  tropics,  appear  to  be  more  vivacious 
than  those  found  further  north.  If  turned  over  on  their 
backs  they  will  gradually  bend  their  calcareous  jointed 
bodies  in  every  direction,  contracting  and  dilating  their 
ventral  disk  until  they  assume  their  natural  position. 
Their  progressive  motion  is  scarcely  perceptible  however, 
the  principal  object  apparently  being  again  to  fix  them- 
selves to  the  surface  of  the  rocks  which  Nature  has  given 
them  to  inhabit.  Their  food  consists  of  Fuci  and  other 
Algae,  with  which  the  rocks  and  stones  are  covered,  and 
their  excrement  is  solid,  and  formed  like  that  of  an  insect 
in  the  larva  state. 

Among  coral  masses  on  this  north-west  coast  of  Borneo, 
a  large  and  handsomely-marked  species  of  Vermetus  was 
found,  the  head  of  which  is  elongated,  flattened,  tapering 
behind,  broader  in  front  where  it  is  divided  between  the 
tentacles  into  two  lobes;  the  tentacles  are  compressed 
vertically,  conical  in  form,  with  the  small  sessile  black  eyes 
situated  at  their  outer  bases ;  the  mantle,  with  a  thick- 
ened rim,  forms  a  wide  loose  tubular  sheath  around  the 
sub-cylindrical  body ;  the  foot  is  circular,  but  without  ex- 
hibiting any  of  those  tentacular  appendages  usually  ob- 
served in  this  genus,  the  margin  being  simply  thickened ; 
the  operculum  is  large,  circular,  flat,  and  horny,  with 
concentric  elements ;  and,  when  the  animal  is  retracted, 


REMARKABLE  LARV.E.  499 

entirely  closes  the  aperture  of  the  shell.  The  slight  de- 
velopment of  the  foot  indicates  the  sedentary  nature  of 
the  animal,  whose  shell  is  firmly  embedded  among  the 
madrepores.  The  mantle  which,  in  the  ordinary  condi- 
tion, is  closely  applied  against  the  walls  of  the  shell,  is 
covered,  like  the  entire  surface  of  the  body,  with  white 
reticulated  markings  upon  a  rich  deep  chesnut-brown ; 
while  the  thickened  fleshy  rim  surrounding  the  foot  is  of 
a  delicate  pink  colour. 

In  the  woods  of  Tampassook,  the  larva  of  a  butterfly 
forms  a  curious  spherical  nest  out  of  the  pinnules  of  a 
species  of  fern.  It  bends  down  the  leaflets,  and  fixes 
them  ingeniously  by  a  glutinous  thread ;  the  grub,  at  the 
time  of  its  incarceration,  feeding  on  the  verdant  walls  of 
the  cavity.  I  have  found  another  larva  which  inhabits  the 
pod  of  a  species  of  leguminous  plant,  and  which,  having 
consumed  its  contents,  forms  a  cocoon  in  the  empty  siliqua. 
Another  remarkable  larva,  belonging  to  an  Oiketicus,  or 
Psyche,  of  the  Lepidopterous  family,  Arctiida,  forms  a  very 
remarkable  case  or  tent  out  of  small  dry  pieces  of  sticks 
and  leaves,  and  being  thus  protected,  crawls  about  the  sur- 
face of  the  foliage,  consuming  the  parenchymatous  tissue. 
One  of  these  was  marbled  pale  yellow  and  black  on  the 
head  and  first  three  segments;  the  rest  of  the  body  straw- 
coloured,  with  two  rows  of  small  black  dots  on  each  side 
above  the  spiracles.  The  case  was  lined  with  a  soft,  loose, 
cottony  down,  composed  of  minutely  comminuted  vege- 
table fibre. 

The  animal  of  M.  Loven's  genus,  Cylichna,  crawls  very 
slowly,  moving  by  an  almost  imperceptible  series  of  un- 


500  HABITS  OF  SPIDERS. 

dulations  of  the  foot ;  it  has  a  peculiar  habit  of  extending 
the  head,  when  a  somewhat  slender  rounded  peduncle, 
resembling  a  neck,  comes  into  view.  By  this  means  the 
animal  is  enabled  to  move  its  head  about  in  any 
direction  with  ease  and  facility;  the  front  part  of  the 
foot  is  short  and  truncate,  not  elongated  and  dilated 
in  front,  as  in  Sulla  aplmtre  and  some  others,  and 
behind  it  is  furnished  with  two  flattened  lateral  coni- 
cal processes  or  tubercles,  a  peculiarity  which  I  have 
not  observed  in  any  other  Sulla ;  the  lateral  lobes  ap- 
pear to  be  entirely  wanting,  and  the  posterior  lobe  is 
concealed  within  the  shell,  which,  as  in  Sulla  columna,  is 
altogether  external. 

The  forms  of  Arachnida  are  as  wonderful  and  as  varied 
in  Borneo  as  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  but  their  study 
is  exceedingly  difficult,  and  their  bodies  not  easily  pre- 
served. In  the  forests,  you  will  often  perceive  large 
species,  suspended  high  by  a  single  thread  to  the  leaves 
and  branches  of  the  trees,  of  fantastically-formed  Acroso- 
mata,  with  their  flattened,  painted  backs,  and  strange 
spiny  protuberances.  I  discovered  at  Sarawak  a  very 
beautiful  new  species,  which  I  have  named  Acrosoma  tri- 
virgulata.  It  is  in  form  very  near  Gasteracantha  trans- 
versa,  gemmata,  andfornicafa  (Koch,  Tab.  113,  fig.  259, 
260,  and  261,)  but  it  is  black,  with  three  broad,  trans- 
verse, yellow  bands  on  the  abdomen,  with  numerous  faint 
annuli,  and  three  bright  yellow  spots  on  the  posterior 
part.  The  thighs  are  banded  with  yellowish-green,  and 
the  under  surface  is  black,  with  bright  oval  yellow  spots. 
Like  many  others,  it  was  found  suspended  by  a  thread 


HABITS  OF  SPIDERS.  501 

from  a  lofty  tree,  and,  when  taken,  contracted  its  members 
and  simulated  death.  The  nests  of  these  spiders  are  as 
extraordinary  in  form  as  the  bodies  of  the  spiders  them- 
selves, which,  in  numerous  instances,  they  very  much 
resemble. 

The  section  of  Epeira  with  lobed  abdomens,  named 
Argyropes,  build  beautiful  webs  in  every  part  of  the  forest. 
Some  of  them  are  very  handsome  spiders,  shining  with 
gold  and  silver,  and  ornamented  with  elegant  patterns  of 
crimson  and  yellow.  A  species  of  Plialangium,  with 
long  legs  of  exceeding  tenuity,  may  be  frequently  seen 
hanging  by  its  feet  to  the  under  surface  of  leaves,  and 
vibrating  its  body  so  rapidly,  as  to  be  at  times  undistin- 
guishable  to  the  eye.  Nephilce  of  enormous  size  spread 
their  large  nets  very  low  in  shady  thickets,  so  that  a  man 
in  penetrating  the  forest  will  become  entangled  and  more 
annoyed  by  a  spider's  web  than  he  will  readily  allow.  It  is 
a  fact  constantly  brought  before  the  notice  of  the  observer, 
that  those  species  of  spiders  that  live  on  the  bark  of  trees 
are  mottled  grey  and  brown,  and  those  which  you  find 
upon  the  ground  are  altogether  black  or  dingy-coloured; 
while  those  living  among  flowers  have  beautifully  varie- 
gated bodies.  How  admirably,  in  these  examples,  is 
shown  the  fitness  of  things,  maintained  even  between 
organisms  usually  deemed  so  abject,  and  the  domains 
they  owe  to  ever-careful  Nature !  It  matters  not  much 
whether  we  say  the  place  determines  the  nature  of  the 
animal,  or  whether  the  animal  is  adapted  to  the  place, 
although  perhaps  it  is  more  pleasing  to  an  observer  of 
nature  to  trace  the  harmonies  and  adaptations  to  an  Intel- 


•302  KABATUAN. 

ligent  Foresight,  like  the  good  St.  Pierre,  than  to  make 
them  merely  the  necessary  results  of  a  physical  arrange- 
ment of  the  earth's  surface,  like  the  ingenious  author  of 
the  "  Vestiges  of  the  Natural  History  of  Creation." 

Not  very  far  from  Tampassook,  while  we  were  surveying 
a  small  bay,  numbers  of  canoes  came  alongside  for  the  first 
time  during  ^our  examination  of  this  part  of  the  coast,  and 
offered  fowls,  yams,  and  sweet-potatoes,  in  exchange  for 
empty  wine  bottles,  which  they  seemed  to  covet  in  an 
especial  manner.  These  people  were  principally  Malays, 
very  poor,  very  dirty,  and  very  ill -looking ;  they  assured 
us,  however,  that  they  were  good  men  and  not  pirates, 
and  that  their  ruler  or  chief  was  a  brother  of  Muda 
Hassim  and  of  the  unfortunate  Budduruddin,  and  in  the 
evening,  a  Pangeran  arrived  from  the  town,  which  he 
called  Kabatuan,  situated  up  a  river  of  that  name,  in- 
forming the  'Captain  that  the  Rajah  was  sick,  and  re- 
quired medical  assistance.  I  accordingly,  with  the  per- 
mission of  Sir  Edward,  took  a  seat  in  the  Pangeran's 
canoe,  and  proceeded  to  visit  the  village.  As  we  left  the 
ship,  I  noticed  that  all  the  Malays  took  off  their  krisses 
and  placed  them  under  a  mat,  a  proceeding,  possibly,  to 
remind  me  of  their  friendly  intentions.  Escorted  by 
numerous  canoes,  we  rapidly  ascended  the  river  to  the 
distance  of  about  eight  miles,  at  which  point  I  found,  on 
tasting  it,  that  it  continued  perfectly  salt.  Large  and 
strong  stakes  were  here  thrown  across  the  river,  and 
suddenly  turning  short  round,  the  boats  entered  a  narrow 
creek  concealed  in  the  left  bank,  where  there  was  only 
room  for  the  passage  of  a  single  canoe  at  a  time.  Pro- 


KABATUAN.  503 

ceeding  along  this  for  some  little  distance,  we  suddenly 
emerged,  and  entered  another  reach  of  the  Kabatuan,  and 
after  paddling  for  some  time,  came  to  shallow  slimy  mud- 
flats, the  whole  of  the  natives  here  getting  out,  and  sliding 
their  long  canoes  over  the  mud  at  a  quick  walking  pace. 
Once  more  launched  upon  the  stream,  which  here  ap- 
peared a  very  deep  river,  particularly  on  the  right  bank, 
I  noticed  a  very  large  war-prahu,  similar  to  those  in  use 
among  the  Illanons,  full  of  armed  men,  evidently  prepar- 
ing for  some  predatory  expedition  ;  several  sailing  prahus 
were  likewise  at  anchor;  and  under  a  kedjang-shed  I 
observed  a  large  newly-built  sailing  boat,  probably  of 
twenty  tons  burden.     How  these  craft  came  into  this 
part  of  the  river  is  to  me  a  mystery,  as  the  natives  seemed 
to  have  brought  me  by  one  of  the  secret  passages  leading 
to  their  haunt  or  hiding-place.     The  town  is  situated 
among  low  jungle  in  a  morass,  with  the  river  winding 
about  it  at  a  little  distance  from  the  central  mass  of 
houses.     As  I  landed,  a  Pangeran  took  me  by  the  hand 
and  escorted  me  to  his  house,  where,  seated  on  an  elevated 
platform,  I  was  offered  a  cup  of  toddy  and  a  long  cigar, 
formed  of  tobacco  rolled  up  in  a  plantain  leaf,  which  I 
smoked  to  the  evident  gratification  of  some  hundred  Du- 
suns,  who  probably  had  never  before  seen  a  European. 
From  this  I  was  led  across  swampy  ground,  walking  on 
narrow  planks  and  across  slender  bamboo  bridges,  to  a 
neatly-built  square-shaped  isolated  edifice,  where  I  was 
introduced  to  the  Rajah,  who,  shaking  me  by  the  hand, 
begged  me  to  be  seated  in  an  arm-chair  by  his  side. 
After    ascertaining    that    his    Highness    was    suffering 


504  MUD  A  MAHOMMED. 

merely  from  the  effects  of  a  slight  debauch,  I  prescribed 
something  warm  and  stomachic,  which  I  had  brought 
with  me.  Mr.  Brooke,  who  on  his  first  arrival  at  Sarawak, 
had  an  interview  with  this  brother  of  Muda  Hassim,  de- 
scribes him  as  "  a  sulky -looking,  ill-favoured  savage,  with 
a  debauched  appearance,  and  wanting  in  the  intelligence 
of  his  brother,  the  Rajah."  Muda  Mahommed  is  a  very 
large  man,  inclined  to  corpulence,  with  a  sensual  coun- 
tenance, and  what  gave  him  a  somewhat  peculiar  appear- 
ance, was  the  circumstance  of  his  wearing  no  handkerchief 
round  his  head,  and  his  hair  being  cut  quite  short.  The 
"  Hall  of  Audience,"  as  usual  in  these  cases,  was  crammed 
with  numbers  of  old,  ugly,  crafty-looking  Malays,  all  squat- 
ting on  their  hams,  with  their  faces  turned  upon  their 
Chief;  but  peeping  curiously  in  at  the  open  doors  and 
windows  were  numerous  Dusuns,  a  wild  tribe  that  inhabit 
the  mountains  of  the  northern  parts  of  the  island.  The 
Rajah  informed  me,  with  some  emotion,  of  the  cruel 
murder  of  the  noble-minded  Budduruddin,  and  expressed 
himself  in  strong  terms  concerning  the  character  of  Pan- 
geran  Usop,  and  concluded  by  hoping  that  Sir  Edward 
Belcher  would  proceed  at  once  to  Brunai,  avenge  the  death 
of  his  brother,  and  destroy  the  city.  He  asked  me,  more- 
over, if  I  did  not  remember  his  younger  brother  to  whom 
he  presented  me,  and  I  recognised  him  as  having  formed 
one  of  the  suite  of  Muda  Hassim.  Reposing  in  pic- 
turesque attitudes  upon  the  ground,  or  leaning  on  their 
shields,  and  conversing  in  little  groups  around  this  so- 
called  palace,  were  some  dozen  Dusuns,  a  handsome  and 
prepossessing  race  of  aboriginal  Dyaks,  whose  name  im- 


THE  DUSUNS.  505 

plies,  according  to  Mr.  Brooke,  that  they  are  an  agricul- 
tural people,  having  a  peculiar  dialect  of  their  own.  In 
person,  the  Dusuris  are  about  the  average  stature  of  Ma- 
lays and  Dyaks,  that  is  below  the  height  of  the  generality 
of  Europeans,  and  their  forms  appeared  to  me  very  sym- 
metrical and  well-proportioned,  particularly  when  con- 
trasted with  the  large-headed,  bow-legged  Malays,  who 
seemed  to  regard  them  with  supreme  contempt,  not  per- 
mitting them  to  enter  and  join  in  their  conference.  The 
colour  of  their  skin  struck  me  as  being  very  peculiar, 
being  of  a  dark,  blackish,  dull  brown,  more  resembling 
that  of  the  natives  of  some  parts  of  Hindostan  than  of 
Malays  and  Dyaks  in  general ;  their  countenances  have 
a  very  mild,  agreeable,  and  open  expression,  quite  different 
either  from  the  sharp  cunning  peculiar  to  the  tribes  of 
Serebus  and  Sekarran,  or  the  grotesque  good  humour  of 
the  wild,  broad-faced  Orang  Sagai ;  their  eyes  are  large, 
clear,  and  expressive;  their  noses  straight  and  promi- 
nent, but  having  the  ala3  considerably  developed;  and  their 
mouths  well  formed,  and  not  too  large ;  their  teeth  are 
filed  straight,  concave  externally,  and  stained  black.  In 
those  I  saw,  the  hair  was  worn  long  behind,  and  flowing 
down  the  back,  cut  straight  in  front  across  the  fore- 
head, and  confined  by  a  single  fillet  of  white  bark- 
cloth.  I  did  not  observe  that  the  bodies  of  any  among 
them  were  tattooed.  The  most  extraordinary  peculi- 
arity, however,  about  these  indigines,  was  the  circum- 
stance of  their  thighs,  arid  loins,  in  particular,  being 
encircled  by  great  numbers  of  thick,  bright,  polished, 
wire  rings,  which  rattled  as  they  moved,  and  gave  them 


506  THE  DUSUNS. 

a  very  singular  appearance.  Similar  rings  depended 
from  the  lobes  of  their  ears,  and  were  worn  around 
their  necks.  They  carried  large  shields,  formed  of  wood, 
and  ornamented  with  tufts  of  hair,  and  were  armed  with 
sumpitan  and  parang. 


507 


CHAPTER  X. 

MAUEITIUS  TO  ENGLAND. 

Scenery  and  Vegetation  of  Mauritius — ^Estivation  of  Tropical  Mollusca 
— Great  Indian  Tortoise — Habits  of  the  Dolabella — Singular  spe- 
cies of  Bullsea  — St.  Brandon  Shoals — The  Cocoa-nut — Aspect  of 
the  reef  and  islets  —  Sea-birds  —  Their  habits  and  nidification  — 
Instinct  in  Fish — Animal  of  Ancillaria — Pelagic  skeleton  Crustacea 
— Anomalous  Zossas  — Cypridina  Adamsii — Habits  of  Janthina — 
— The  Carinaria  and  Atlanta — The  Hyaleea  and  Cleodora — The 
habits  and  development  of  the  Argonaut — Insects  at  Sea — Con- 
cluding Remarks. 

MAURITIUS,  so  famous  for  its  mountain  of  Peter  Bott, 
so  immortalised  by  the  sweet  tale  of  Paul  and  Vir- 
ginia, and  so  interesting  to  Zoologists  in  being  the  pro- 
bable birth-place  of  that  monstrous  extinct  pigeon,  the 
Dodo,  is  certainly  a  very  beautiful  island,  abounding  in 
scenery  of  the  most  varied  and  delightful  description, 
any  attempt  to  expatiate  upon  which,  after  St.  Pierre's 
glowing  pictures,  would  be  presumptuous.  To  fully 
enjoy  his  exquisite  little  narrative,  one  should  make  a 
sentimental  pilgrimage,  and  wander  from  the  Shaddock 
Grove  to  the  river  of  Fan-palms,  from  Cape  Misfortune 
to  the  Alley  of  Bamboos,  and  from  the  Pass  of  Saint 
Geran  to  the  bay  of  the  Tomb,  and  what  one  misses  in 
sentiment,  might  be  gained  in  contemplating  the  sweet 
scenery  of  the  island.  No  wonder  such  a  charming  spot 


508  VEGETATION. 

should  have  changed  names  and  masters  so  often,  with 

O  * 

such  advantages  in  climate,  situation,  and  productiveness. 
It  has  been  called  Swan  Island  by  the  Portuguese,  Mau- 
ritius by  the  Dutch,  and  Isle  of  France  by  "La  Grande 
Nation,"  for  each  has  held  it  in  rotation,  and  now  the 
British  Lion's  paw  is  on  it.  In  the  general  character  of 
its  vegetation,  Mauritius  is  somewhat  similar  to  that  of 
the  Cape  in  the  number  of  succulent  plants,  Cactuses, 
Spurges,  Aloes,  House-leeks,  Fig-marigolds,  &c.  Many 
plants  from  Europe,  Africa,  Madagascar,  and  India  are  ac- 
climated, and  flourish  well.  Among  others  I  noticed  the 
Cycas  circinalis,  Chrysanthemum  Indicum,  and  the  Ar- 
gemone  Mexicana,  which  notwithstanding  its  name,  is  very 
common,  and  when  in  flower,  its  large  yellow  petals  and 
glaucous  prickly  leaves  have  a  very  pretty  appearance. 
Shady  groves  of  Mango  and  dense  masses  of  Mimosa 
are  met  with,  in  short,  nearly  every  beautiful  tree  of  the 
tropics.  While  staying  at  Port  Louis,  I  accompanied  Sir 
Edward  Belcher  and  Sir  David  Barclay  some  miles  into 
the  interior,  and  spent  a  very  delightful  day  at  Sir 
David's  country  house,  a  pleasant  villa  situated  half-way 
up  a  mountain,  and  surrounded  with  beautiful  grounds. 
Numbers  of  flowers,  natives  both  of  India  and  Europe, 
flourished  luxuriantly  in  the  garden;  the  dry,  prickly- 
leaved  Euphorbia  of  Madagascar,  with  the  succulent-leaved 
Mesembry  anthem  urns  of  the  African  coast;  the  sweet 
Rose  of  Persia,  with  the  wild  flowers  peculiar  to  the 
island.  The  Heliotrope  in  dense  masses,  and  the  sweet- 
scented  Verbena  in  hedges,  were  contrasted  with  Mimosas, 
Cassias,  and  Palm-trees.  A  stream  of  clear  water  from 
the  mountains  ran  through  a  channel,  and  filled  tanks  in 


AESTIVATION  OF  TROPICAL  MOLLUSCA.  509 

various  parts  where  numerous  Physas,  Succineas,  and 
Water-beetles  were  observed.  In  the  wilderness  at  the 
back  of  the  villa,  fine  oaks  formed  natural  summer-houses, 
and  groups  of  large  trees,  natives  of  the  Mauritius,  were 
mingled  with  the  Gourd  and  Coffee-tree.  In  the  holes 
of  tree  trunks,  and  under  the  decayed  mass  of  leaves 
which  strewed  the  ground,  we  found  numbers  of  a  large 
Achatina  in  a  state  of  hibernation.  The  large  Achatina 
of  the  Mauritius,  during  aestivation,  forms  a  strong, 
dense  white  epiphragma  during  the  dry  season,  and  con- 
ceals itself  either  in  holes  of  decayed  trees  or  under  the 
surface  of  the  soil  ;  the  Megalomastoma  of  Mindoro 
closes  its  shell  with  its  round  horny  operculum,  and  con- 
gregates in  numbers  in  fissures  of  trees  some  distance 
from  the  ground;  the  Cerithium  truncatmn,  in  Singapore 
and  Borneo,  suspends  itself  by  glutinous  threads  to  dead 
sticks  on  the  margins  of  rivers ;  the  Caracotta  of  the 
Philippines,  hides  under  loose  bark,  where  it  adheres  very 
closely;  the  Cydostomata  and  Scarabi  bury  themselves 
under  the  stratum  of  dead  leaves  with  which  the  ground 
is  always  covered;  the  Assiminete,  Melanin,  and  Ampul- 
larice,  conceal  themselves  in  the  soft  mud  of  ponds  and 
rivers ;  the  Nematura  adheres  firmly  to  floating  sticks,  and 
to  the  under  surface  of  leaves  in  stagnant  pools ;  the 
snails  glue  themselves  together,  as  they  do  in  England, 
and  congregate  in  holes  of  rotten  trunks;  the  Bulimi 
adhere  firmly  to  smooth  branches  and  boles  of  trees;  and 
the  Hdicina  to  the  under  surface  of  leaves  generally  in 
an  elevated  situation.  The  Potomis  and  Telcscopium 
bury  themselves  in  the  muddy  Mangrove  swamps,  many 
NcritincB  do  the  same  thing,  and  I  have  noticed  in  the 


510  HABITS  OF  DOLABELLA. 

island  of  Basilan  a  dark-brown  species  of  Conohelix, 
which  conceals  itself  also  in  the  soft  mud,  several  inches 
below  the  surface,  among  the  roots  of  the  Rhizophora 
Mangle  above  high- water  mark. 

Man  is  not  the  only  animal  which  has  wandered  by 
chance  or  inclination  from  the  old  to  the  new  world.  The 
great  black  Indian  Tortoise,  originally  a  native  of  Mada- 
gascar and  the  Mauritius,  is  identical  with  that  species 
whose  habits  have  been  so  admirably  alluded  to  by  Mr. 
Charles  Darwin,  who  describes  it  as  inhabiting  the  low 
islands  of  the  Galapagos  Archipelago.  It  is  likewise 
found  in  California,  and  I  believe  has  been  met  with  in 
other  parts  of  the  west  coast  of  South  America.  A 
gigantic  specimen  of  this  Tortoise  made  a  voyage  to 
England  in  the  'Samarang/  but  unfortunately  died 
shortly  after  its  arrival,  in  consequence,  probably,  of 
injuries  received  during  a  gale  in  the  Bay  of  Biscay. 

The  Dolabettts  seem  to  love  the  still  and  rather  shallow 
water  of  creeks  near  the  sea,  where  they  congregate  under 
large  stones,  and  in  deeper  water  remain  fixed  by  their 
ventral  disks  to  the  surfaces  and  sides  of  submerged 
rocks,  in  a  collapsed  and  motionless  state.  They  prefer 
a  gravelly  or  stony  bottom,  and  at  the  rising  of  the  tide  I 
have  seen  them  crawl  pretty  briskly  towards  the  shore, 
when  they  proceed  to  the  small  shallow  pools  to  feed  upon 
the  sea- weed  that  abounds  there.  Having  instructed  the 
boat's  crew  where  to  find  the  animal,  and  its  appearance, 
they  waded  up  to  their  waists  and  soon  returned  with 
considerable  numbers  of  very  large  specimens  which  were 
all  deposited  in  a  pool  together,  so  that  I  had  ample  op- 
oportunities  of  drawing  and  observing  them. 


SAINT-BRANDON  SHOALS.  511 

In  a  remarkable  form  of  Butttea,  found  on  the  shores 
of  this  island,  the  anterior  lobe  or  cephalic  disk  is  entirely 
destitute  of  eyes  or  tentacular  appendages;  it  is  thin, 
broad,  flattened,  dilated  in  front,  on  the  same  plane  as  the 
foot,  and  continuous  on  either  side  with  the  lateral  lobes ; 
posteriorly  where  it  joins  the  posterior  lobe,  it  is  deeply 
indented,  as  in  most  Buttidce.  The  lateral  lobes,  large, 
extended,  and  fitted  for  natation,  partially  overlap  the 
posterior  lobe,  are  on  the  same  plane  with  the  foot,  con- 
tinuous in  front  with  the  indistinct  head,  and  end 
behind  in  a  broad,  truncated  border,  which  is  notched  in 
the  centre.  The  posterior  lobe  which  lodges  the  shell, 
and  contains  the  viscera,  is  rounded  above,  partly  enve- 
loped by  the  lateral  lobes,  and  slightly  notched  behind. 

L'ile  Saint-Brande,  situated  to  the  north-east  of  Rod- 
riguez, called  the  Saint-Brandon  Shoals  by  the  English, 
and  Cargados  Garajos  by  the  Portuguese,  has  derived  a 
few  cocoa-nut  trees  from  the  latter  island,  which  in  its  turn 
obtained  them  from  the  Mauritius,  according  to  St. 
Pierre,  who  relates  that  when  the  philosopher  Francois 
Seguat  and  his  unfortunate  companions,  formed  in  1690 
the  first  inhabitants  of  that  little  island,  there  were  no 
cocoa-nut  trees  on  their  arrival;  but  as  if  Providence  had 
invited  them  to  remain  there  and  cultivate  it,  the  use- 
ful and  agreeable  present  of  several  germinating  cocoa- 
nuts  was  thrown  ashore  by  the  waves.  He  observes, 
moreover,  that  these  two  islands  although  situated  in  the 
course  of  a  current,  which,  during  the  year,  runs  alter- 
nately, six  months  towards  one  and  six  months  towards 
the  other,  had  not  communicated  all  the  plants  peculiar 
to  each.  In  the  course  of  time  all  the  small,  scattered 


512  SCENERY  OF  THE  ISLETS. 

islets  of  this  extensive  shoal  will  become  united,  and  con- 
stitute one  large  island  covered  with  cocoa-nut  'trees. 
Weh1  then,  may  we  exclaim  with  Mr.  Crawfurd  when 
speaking  of  that  vegetable  blessing,  the  cocoa-nut :  "How 
wonderful  to  discover  this  useful  plant  silently  propagated 
over  many  thousand  leagues,  among  hundreds  of  barbarous 
tribes  of  dissimilar  languages,  whose  very  names  and 
situations  are  unknown  to  each  other!"  How  extremely 
fortunate  is  the  curious  fact  that  the  cocoa-nut  should 
grow  the  easiest,  and  thrive  the  most  luxuriantly,  always 
near  the  sea  coast,  and  with  what  pains  has  Nature,  to 
ensure  a  safe  passage  to  the  tender  embryo,  encased  it  in 
a  strong  thick  husk  that  will  remain  uninjured  when 
dashed  upon  the  shore  by  the  billows! 

The  general  aspect  of  these  small  islets,  thus  formed  out 
of  a  huge  reef  in  ihe  middle  of  the  ocean,  is  by  no  means 
inviting.  It  is  a  wild  and  barren  scene.  The  soil  is  sand, 
and  ornamented  only  by  a  few  stunted  shrubs;  the  sullen 
ocean  roars  in  the  distance,  and  breaks  over  the  barren 
reef,  and  upon  the  beaches  of  the  islands,  in  vast  rolling 
surges,  while  screaming  all  around,  flocks  of  snow-white 
tern,  and  long-winged  gulls  hover  over  the  water,  or 
cover  the  bare  ground  as  they  sit  brooding  over  their  eggs. 

On  some  of  the  low  islets  you  could  not  walk  without 
crushing  the  marbled  eggs,  or  treading  on  the  callow 
young,  of  Tern,  Petrels,  and  Noddies.  One  species  of 
Puffinus,  allied  to  P.  fuliginosa,  sleeps,  by  day,  in  bur- 
rows formed  by  its  feet  in  the  sand,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  it  deposits  a  milk-white  egg,  as  large  as  a  duck's. 
It  frequents  the  centre  of  the  islands,  and  howls  most 
dismally  all  night  long,  making  a  mournful  noise,  like  the 


INCUBATION  OF  AQUATIC  BIRDS.  513 

cooings  of  doves,  mingled  with  the  waitings  of  the  Chacal. 
A  beautiful  Sterna,  black  above  and  white  beneath,  also 
lays  a  mottled  egg  in  the  middle  of  the  islands,  about 
two  feet  apart,  on  the  bare  ground.  The  female  sits  on 
the  egg  and  defends  it  stoutly.  The  young  are  spotted 
white  and  brown,  and  run  like  little  Partridges. 
-  Another  large,  dark,  ash-coloured  species  frequents  the 
vicinity  of  the  sea,  and  lays  a  large,  oval,  white  egg,  among 
the  loose  stones,  near  the  shore.  The  young  are  some- 
times white,  sometimes  grey,  and  often  black. 

Another  Sterna  of  smaller  size,  dark  ash-coloured,  with  a 
lighter  coloured  head,  builds  in  the  middle  of  the  islands, 
among  the  low  bushes,  constructing  a  rude  kind  of  nest 
of  straw  and  leaves,  forming  a  sort  of  platform.  It 
deposits  one  mottled  egg,  the  size  of  a  Pigeon's.  The 
young  are  grey  or  whitish.  A  small  white  species  lays 
a  single  egg  (mottled  and  marbled,)  close  to  the  water's 
edge,  on  a  flat  stone,  quite  exposed  and  unprotected. 
The  young  are  snowy- white,  though  occasionally  greyish. 
With  all  this  incubation  going  on  around,  I  could  not 
help  thinking  of  Milton's  description  of  a  somewhat 
similar  scene,  where  he  alludes  to  the  birds  in  his  "Pa- 
radise Lost," 

"  Hatching  their  numerous  brood  from  th'  egg,  that  soon, 
Bursting  with  kindly  rupture,  forth  disclos'd 
Their  callow  young,  but  feathered  soon,  and  fledge, 
They  summ'd  their  pens,  and  soaring  th'  air  sublime, 
With  clang  despised  the  ground,  under  a  cloud     , 
In  prospect." 

The  Saint  Brandon  Shoals,  abound  with  fish  of  every 
description,  which  afforded  a  rich  treat  to  the  ship's  com- 
pany, who  caught  them  in  large  numbers,  alongside. 

VOL.   II.  2    L 


514  SAGACITY  OF  FISHES. 

Among  others,  I  noticed  Pomfret,  Rock-cod,  a  species  of 
Gadus,  of  a  splendid  red,  covered  with  round  ultramarine 
spots;  the  handsome_Z)zj0/0^n0^  bifasciatum,  a  small  species 
of  Tunny,  a  Pelamis  with  transverse  green  bands,  several 
kinds  of  Sharks,  the  Serranus  Jiexagonatus,  and  a  splendid 
Serranus  of  a  chrome  yellow,  with  broad  blackish  bands. 
Snappers,  marked  with  blue  and  yellow,  and  with  silvery 
bodies,  and  several  species  of  Pelamis,  Poropsis,  Leth- 
rinus,  Chcetodon,  Batistes,  CkrysopJiris,  and  Mugil. 

Saint  Pierre,  after  alluding  to  the  cunning  of  certain 
flat  fish  which  bury  their  large  fins  in  the  sand,  and  show 
only  their  cheating  side  when  the  tide  has  receded,  and  left 
them  to  await  patiently  its  flowing,  and  thus  elude  the 
notice  of  the  fishermen,  makes  the  following  remark  with 
much  glee :  "  C'est  ce  que  je  leur  ai  vu  faire  plus  d'une 
fois,  encore  plus  emerveille  de  la  ruse  de  ces  poissons, 
que  de  celle  des  pecheurs."  The  large  Ray,  which 
was  captured  on  the  Saint  Brandon  Shoals  after  a  hard 
struggle,  was  of  a  bluish  sand  colour,  and  its  back  studded 
with  white  tubercles,  thus  resembling  very  much  in  appear- 
ance the  bottom  of  the  sandy  coral  patch  on  which  it  lived; 
and  a  Skate  pursued  by  a  boat's  crew  over  a  muddy  flat  in 
very  shallow  water  at  Basilau,  was  of  a  dirty  yellow  brown, 
precisely  the  same  colour  as  the  place  it  was  accustomed 
to  inhabit.  I  have  noticed  that  among  low  coral  reefs 
where  Pleuronectes  are  frequently  found,  their  tails  are 
often  ornamented  with  rather  vivid  colours,  and  their  upper 
sides  marked  with  somewhat  striking  patterns,  whereas 
those  that  are  half  buried,  as  for  instance  in  Manilla  Bay, 
are  as  dull  and  dingy,  as  the  surface  in  which  they  are 
found. 


HABITS  AND  ASPECT  OF  ANCILLAHIA.  515 

The  nature  of  the  animal  of  Ancittaria  appears  to  be 
not  very  well  understood.  M.  Rang  observes :  "  Animal 
furnished  with  a  lobe  of  the  mantle  covering  the  shell,  in 
other  respects  unknown."  (Manuel  de  Mollusques,  p.  227.) 
Mr.  Gray,  founding  his  opinion  on  the  figures  of  M.  Quoy, 
observes:  "  The  shell  is  nearly  sunk  in  the  very  large  ex- 
panded foot  of  the  animal,  which  is  deeply  cut  in  on  each 
side  in  front.  The  siphon  alone  is  exserted."  It  appeared 
to  me,  however,  when  examining  these  animals,  numerous 
living  specimens  of  which  were  dredged  by  us  on  the  east 
coast  of  Africa,  that  the  lateral  lobes  or  processes  which 
partially  envelope  the  shell,  are  precisely  analogous  to 
those  of  the  Sulla,  and  are  as  much  entitled  to  be  called 
the  mantle,  as  are  the  loose  expanded  lateral  folds  which 
cross  upon  the  back  of  the  Aplysia.  These  alar  expan- 
sions of  the  mantle  are  enormously  dilated,  the  right  one 
is  generally  longer  than  the  left  posteriorly,  and  both  curl 
upwards  and  inwards  during  the  ordinary  progression  of 
the  animal,  and  folding  themselves  on  the  shell,  almost 
entirely  conceal  it  from  view.  At  the  anterior  part,  they 
are  in  close  juxta-position,  in  the  middle  they  slightly 
overlap  each  other,  and  posteriorly  they  are  rounded  and 
open,  and  projecting  beyond  the  spire,  form  a  loose,  open 
sac.  Anteriorly,  the  foot  is  produced,  as  in  Natica  and 
Sulla,  forming  a  cephalic  disc,  which  however  is  divided 
by  a  deep  furrow  or  groove  into  two  triangular  lobes,  and 
separated  from  the  lateral  portions  of  the  foot  by  deep 
lateral  clefts  or  fissures  ;  behind,  the  foot  is  slightly  cleft 
or  bilobate,  and  below,  it  is  furnished  with  a  furrow  in  the 
median  line,  and  is  smooth,  wide,  and  provided  with  a 
slimy,  mucous  secretion,  another  peculiarity  in  which  it 

2  L  2 


516  SKELETON  CRABS. 

resembles  Bulla.  I  have  no  doubt,  moreover,  that  occa- 
sionally the  lateral  membranous  expansions  are  horizontally 
extended,  and  that  the  animal  is  enabled  to  swim  in  the 
same  manner,  as  I  have  mentioned,  as  peculiar  to  some  of 
the  Bulla  tribe.  The  Ancillarice  crawl  with  a  sliding 
motion,  and  with  considerable  celerity.  As  they  glide 
briskly  along,  the  tubular  cylindrical  siphon  only  is  visible. 
It  is  directed  backwards  and  upwards,  and  sometimes  is 
laid  flat  on  the  back  of  the  animal ;  while  the  two  trian- 
gular lobes  placed  anterior  to  the  foot,  are  extended 
laterally,  and  in  front  moving  about  and  exploring  the 
ground  like  tentacles,  and  no  doubt  serving  the  same 
purpose.  It  is  rather  surprising  that  such  an  active  Mol- 
lusk  as  the  Ancittaria,  should  have  been  apparently  de- 
prived by  Nature  of  sight,  no  eyes  being  visible  to  my 
observation  in  the  specimens  I  kept  alive.  The  species 
which  were  dredged  by  us  from  a  sandy  bottom,  and  in 
about  fourteen  fathoms  water,  were  of  a  dirty-white  colour, 
with  dull,  brown,  elongated,  oval  blotches,  rather  sparsely 
and  irregularly  distributed.  In  the  enormous  size  of  the 
foot,  and  its  being  prolonged  anteriorly  and  transversely 
lobed  in  front,  and  in  the  shell  being  partly  concealed  in 
the  body  of  the  animal,  Ancittaria  resembles  Natica. 

Among  the  pelagic  skeleton  Crabs  may  be  ranked  the 
genera  ErichtJtus  and  Alima,  curious  transparent  shrimp- 
like  creatures,  with  spiny  shields  and  elongated  tails.  I 
have  detected,  among  the  number  of  those  we  obtained, 
many  new  species.  They  are  erratic  and  restless  little 
animals,  and  swarm  on  the  surface  of  the  Atlantic,  when 
the  water  is  calm  and  tranquil.  The  Phronima,  another 
genus  allied  to  them,  is  very  frequently  found  inside  the 


TRANSPARENT  CRUSTACEANS.  517 

hollow,  transparent  bodies  of  the  Beroe  and  other  Medusae, 
but  whether  the  Phronima  employs  these  Acalephce  as 
canoes  to  sail  about  in,  or  whether  it  lives  parasitic  on  their 
bodies,  or  feeds  on  the  animalcules  contained  in  them,  I 
am  unable  to  determine.  The  Rhabdosoma  armatwn 
(Adams  and  White)  had  been  hitherto  found  only  in  the 
sea  between  Ainboyna  and  Van  Dieman's  land.  The 
head  of  this  extraordinary  Crustacean  is  terminated  by  a 
snout  or  beak  nearly  as  long  as  the  body,  and  the  tail  is 
furnished  with  three  stylets  as  long  as  the  muzzle,  which, 
added  to  its  elongated  form  and  enormous  eyes,  makes  it 
look  like  some  imaginary  fabrication,  rather  than  a  normal 
production  of  Nature.  It  swims  by  suddenly  straighten- 
ing its  stick-like  body  when  in  a  bent  position,  and  moves 
either  backwards  or  forwards.  It  is  sluggish  in  its  mo- 
tions compared  with  other  Hyperiadts.  Another  genus  is 
allied  to  Vibilia  (Milne  Edwards,)  but  has  a  more  slender 
conformation,  and  wants  the  thickened  and  cylindrical 
superior  antennae ;  the  four  last  segments  of  the  body, 
moreover,  are  more  elongated,  and  differ  from  the  rest. 
The  Phyttosomata,  with  their  foliaceous,  transparent  cara- 
paces, and  diaphanous  members,  and  of  which  we  have 
observed  one  or  two  new  species,  move  about  like  the 
ghosts  of  Stomapods.  They  are  apathetic  and  sluggish, 
notwithstanding  their  eyes  being  well-developed,  and 
their  organization  pretty  complex,  and  in  calm  weather 
may  be  taken  with  a  net  in  large  numbers  floating  on  the 
surface  of  the  sea.  Despite  the  fifteen  species  enumerated 
by  Edwards,  those  described  by  M.  Guerin  in  the  Voyage 
de  la  Coquille  and  Mag.  de  Zool.  for  1833,  and  those  that 
exist  in  the  British  Museum,  there  still  remains  much  to 


518  GROTESQUE  CRUSTACEANS. 

be  known  before  a  perfect  monograph  of  the  Phyttostoma- 
tidte  can  be  formed. 

Notwithstanding  that  Crustaceology  abounds  in  forms 
sufficiently  bizarre,  those  very  singular  paradoxes,  the 
Zoea,  exceed  them  all  in  curious  and  fantastic  shapes. 
One  form,  which  I  have  provisionally  christened  Zoea- 
boops,  would  serve  as  an  excellent  model  for  a  gro- 
tesque monster  in  a  pantomime :  in  fact,  they  all  more 
resemble  phantasms  than  the  ordinary  organizations  we 
are  in  the  habit  of  contemplating.  I  have  noticed  and 
figured  several  varieties,  and  from  the  constant  recurrence 
of  regular  types  among  them,  I  should  be  inclined  to 
doubt  the  accuracy  of  Dr.  Thompson's  opinion,  that  these 
whimsical-looking  beings  are  merely  the  larvae  of  different 
kinds  of  Crabs  ;  and  this  more  particularly,  as  the  Zoea3 
are  generally  found  in  the  high  seas,  where  few  of  the 
larger  Crustacea  are  ever  discovered,  were  it  not  for  the 
investigations  of  Rathke  on  the  development  of  the  Astacus 
jluviatilis,  and  the  additional  testimony  of  Capt.  Du  Cane 
and  M.  Joly,  who  have  obtained  similar  results.  I  can 
with  certainty  affirm  that  Megalopa  is  no  true  genus,  as 
1  have  observed  specimens  in  every  stage  of  growth  be- 
tween the  common  type  of  Megalopa  and  that  of  ordinary 
Brachyarous  Crustacea.  Among  Entomostracous  Crus- 
taceans, small  animals  with  natatory  feet  terminating  in 
two  branches,  and  belonging  to  that  division  named 
Cyproides,  the  bodies  of  which  are  enclosed  in  a  conchi- 
fonn  carapace,  which  causes  them  occasionally  to  be  mis- 
taken for  bivalve  Mollusca,  were  several  individuals  of  the 
genus  Cypridina,  distinguished  by  having  two  elongated 
eyes  situated  in  the  median  line,  about  the  middle  of  their 


HABITS  OF  IANTHINA.  519 

carapace.  These  rare  and  interesting  little  animals  have 
been  ascertained  by  Dr.  Baird,  who  has  studied  profoundly 
this  little  known  and  difficult  branch  of  Zoology,  to  be 
specifically  distinct,  and  he  has  done  me  the  honour  to  de- 
dicate them  to  me  under  the  name  of  Cypridina  Adamsii ; 
they  are  the  third  and  largest  species  known. 

The  eyes  Qi  lanthina  are  very  minute,  and  terminal  at  the 
end  of  a  peduncle,  the  animal,  in  this  respect,  and  in  having 
a  long  extensile  proboscis  and  divided  foot,  resembles  a 
Strom  bus.  In  the  act  of  swimming,  the  dilated  natatory 
appendages  of  the  mantle  are  kept  fully  expanded,  but  I 
never  observed  them  used  in  the  same  manner  as  the  alar 
expansions  of  theffyaltea,  although,  doubtless,  in  their  pro- 
gression through  the  water,  their  use  is  very  great.  The 
vesicular  float  adhering  to  the  posterior  flattened  division 
of  the  foot,  which  is  considered  by  some  to  be  an  extra- 
ordinary form  of  operculum,  has  the  egg-sacs  attached 
by  short  peduncles  to  the  surface,  and  the  female  lanthina 
appears  to  have  the  power  of  detaching  that  portion  of 
the  float  to  which  the  nidamental  sacs  are  fixed,  which 
then  remains  suspended  on  the  surface  of  the  Avater, 
where,  exposed  to  the  influence  of  heat  and  light,  the  ova 
undergo  their  ultimate  development.  Although  we  found 
these  beautiful  Mollusks  cast  up  by  thousands  on  the 
shores  of  the  Me'ia-co-shimahs,  I  never  observed  them  make 
the  slightest  effort  to  crawl,  but  have  frequently  noticed 
them  adhering  together  in  masses,  attached  by  the  ante- 
rior part  of  the  foot,  which  acts  as  a  sucker.  In  company 
with  the  thousands  of  lanthina  swimming  on  the  surface 
of  the  South  Atlantic,  were  innumerable  little  fish  of  the 
genera  Gonostoma,  fcktbyococcus,  and  Scopclus,  some  of 


520  HABITS  OF  ATLANTA. 

which  were  of  singular  forms,  and,  in  general,  of  a  steel 
colour.  Among  the  pelagic  heteropodous  Mollusks,  which 
we  found,  in  crossing  the  South  Atlantic  ocean,  were  vast 
numbers  of  Atlanta,  and  numerous  Carinariae.  They  are 
crepuscular  animals,  like  the  Pteropods,  and  are  furnished 
with  hyaline  shells,  of  the  greatest  delicacy  and  beauty. 
The  Atlanta,  with  an  elegant,  glassy,  spiral,  carinated 
shell,  globose  in  one  species,  and  flattened  in  the  other, 
is  quite  a  sprightly  little  Mollusk,  probing  every  object 
within  its  reach  by  means  of  its  elongated  trunk,  twisting 
its  body  about,  and  swimming  in  every  direction,  by  the 
lateral  movements  of  its  vertical,  dilated  foot.  I  have 
frequently  seen  them  descend  to  the  bottom  of  the  glass 
vessel  in  which  they  were  kept,  fix  themselves  there  in 
the  manner  of  a  leech,  by  their  sucking  disc,  and  carefully 
examine  the  nature  of  their  prison-house,  by  protruding 
the  front  portion  of  the  foot  in  every  direction.  The 
shell  of  the  globose  species  (Helicophlegma  Keraudrenii  of 
D'Orbigny,)  is  nearly  membranous,  and  becomes  opaque 
and  shrivelled  on  exposure  to  the  air;  the  compressed 
species  (Atlanta  Peronii  of  Lesueur,)  has  a  firmer  and 
more  vitreous  shell.  Lamanon,  one  of  the  Naturalists  who 
accompanied  La  Perouse,  considered  the  Atlanta  to  repre- 
sent the  shells  of  those  extinct  fossil  shells  the  Ammonites, 
to  which,  however,  it  has  but  a  faint  resemblance.  Al- 
though it  is  perfectly  true  that  pelagic  Mollusks  generally 
swim  on  their  backs,  in  a  reversed  position,  as  lanthina, 
Firola,  Carinaria,  and  Atlanta,  yet,  in  figuring  them,  the 
analogy  of  the  parts  is  better  represented  by  placing  them 
in  the  position  most  common  to  animals  of  this  class. 
Thus  the  species  of  Scyllaa,  Doris,  &c.,  are  never  repre- 


HABITS  OF  CARINAHIA.  521 

sented  in  a  reversed  position ;  nor  are  snails  that  lead  an 
arboreal  existence.  The  vertical  expanded  part  of  the 
body  of  Carinaria  and  Atlanta  is  sometimes  erroneously 
regarded  as  a  fin ;  and  in  the  figures  of  Rang,  Blainville, 
and  De  la  Chiage,  which  are  in  an  inverted  position,  this 
idea  would,  in  the  eyes  of  the  uninitiated,  be  confirmed. 
Although  I  have  myself  frequently  seen  them  swimming 
in  this  reversed  position  after  capture,  they  frequently 
progress  feebly  with  the  shell  uppermost.  When  fresh 
and  just  taken,  I  have  seen  both  the  Carinarits  and 
Atlanta  swim  with  their  bodies  in  every  position  on  their 
sides,  on  their  backs,  and  with  the  foot  downwards. 
The  Carinarice  are  swift  and  rapid  in  their  movements, 
and  dart  forwards  by  a  continuous  effort,  moving  their 
foot  and  caudal  appendage  from  side  to  side,  as  a 
powerful  natatory  organ,  and  do  not  progress  by  sud- 
den jerks,  like  the  Atlanta  and  Hyalaa.  In  these  parti- 
culars, my  observations  are  conformable  with  the  state- 
ments of  M.  Rang.  The  true  analogue  of  the  foot  of 
Gasteropods  in  Atlanta  and  Carinaria  is  the  sucking  disc 
placed  at  the  posterior  part  of  the  vertically -flattened 
appendage  of  the  body,  but  its  use  is  circumscribed  to 
that  of  enabling  the  animal  to  anchor  itself  temporarily 
to  floating  bodies  when  fatigued,  therein  offering  an 
analogy  to  the  gasteropodous  genera  of  Notarclius  and 
Scyllaa,  which  cling,  in  the  same  manner,  with  the  back 
downwards,  to  floating  sea-weed.  The  shell  of  the  Cari- 
naria, like  that  of  the  Testacella  and  Cryptostoma,  covers 
only  a  small  portion  of  the  body  of  the  animal,  defend- 
ing the  more  delicate  organs ;  and  in  this  we  see  a  wise 
provision  for  permitting  these  pelagic  Mollusks  to  move 


522  HABITS  OF  PTEROPODS. 

freely  about,  without  being  encumbered  with  a  dense, 
heavy  skeleton.  M.  Rang  offers,  as  a  generic  character, 
the  constant  presence  of  asperities  on  the  mantle ;  but  1 
think  this  will  hardly  serve,  as  I  have  figured  a  species 
from  the  South  Atlantic,  which  I  believe  to  be  new,  which 
is  perfectly  smooth,  and  totally  devoid  of  any  processes 
on  the  mantle. 

The  mantle  of  C'leodora,  like  that  of  Hyalcea,  is  very 
much  dilated,  and  forms  two  swimming  appendages,  and 
the  intermediate  lobe  is  semicircular;  but  there  are  no 
elongated  lateral  expansions  similar  to  those  that  emerge 
from  the  slits  in  the  side  of  Hyalaa.  In  many  figures  of 
these  animals,  the  swimming  lobes  are  represented  as 
varying  in  form  in  different  species,  but  from  my  obser- 
vations, I  should  say  that  the  lobes,  Vandykes,  and  fold- 
ings of  the  margin,  are  purely  accidental  contractions,  and 
that  commonly  the  margins  are  entire.  The  animal  of 
Cleodora  Byzantium  has,  when  alive,  the  two  swimming 
expansions  very  much  elongated  laterally,  rather  slender 
and  rounded  at  their  free  extremities.  In  C.  cuspidata, 
they  are  shorter  and  rounded.  The  Hylcece,  no  doubt, 
like  the  Amphibia  among  the  reptiles,  respire  by  the  entire 
cutaneous  surface,  which  is  so  soft  and  permeable;  al- 
though, it  is  true,  they  have  distinct  breathing  organs, 
disposed  in  the  form  of  an  oval  ring,  between  two  layers 
of  the  mantle  on  the  dorsal  region,  which  are  open,  to 
receive  currents  of  water  transmitted  by  the  lateral  aper- 
tures of  the  shell.  The  long,  loose,  lateral,  pallial  prolong- 
ations, which  these  testaceous  Pteropods  protrude  from 
the  lateral  fissures  of  the  shell,  do  not  appear  to  be  of 
much  use  in  guiding  or  propelling,  which  functions  are 


HABITS  OF  THE  ARGONAUT.  523 

performed  by  the  wide  alar  expansions.  They  may  assist, 
however,  in  extending  the  surface  of  the  mantle  for  the 
purpose  of  aeration. 

On  our  passage  home,  I  had  numerous  opportunities  of 
observing  the  animals  of  Aryonauta  tuberculosa,  and  A. 
Mans,  in  the  living  state,  both  species  having  been  cap- 
tured by  us  in  large  numbers  by  means  of  a  trawl  as  they 
came  to  the  surface  of  the  South  Atlantic,  in  calm  weather, 
at  the  decline  of  day,  in  company  with  Carinaria,  Hyalcea, 
Firola,  and  Cleodora.  My  observations  all  tend  to  prove, 
as  might  have  been  expected,  the  accuracy  of  Madame 
Power  and  M.  Rang,  and  the  fanciful  nature  of  the 
statements  of  Pliny,  Poli,  and  the  poets.  It  is  quite  true 
that  the  female  Argonaut  can  readily  disengage  herself 
from  the  shell,  when  the  velamentous  arms  become  col- 
lapsed, and  float  apparently  useless  on  each  side  of  the 
animal,  and  it  is  equally  certain  that  she  has  not  the  ability 
or  perhaps  the  sagacity,  to  enter  her  nest  again,  and 
resume  the  guardianship  of  her  eggs.  On  the  contrary, 
she  herself,  if  kept  in  confinement,  after  darting  and 
woundinsr  herself  against  the  sides  of  the  vessel  she  is 

O  D 

confined  in,  soon  becomes  languid,  and  very  shortly  dies. 
Numbers  of  male  Argonauts  were  taken  by  us,  at  the 
same  time,  without  any  shells,  and  this  being  the  season 
of  ovoposition,  may  account  for  the  females,  in  such  a 
number  of  instances,  being  found  embracing  their  shell- 
nests.  As  a  convincing  proof  that  the  thin  shell  of  the 
Argonaut  is  employed  by  the  female  as  a  safe  receptacle 
in  which  to  deposit  her  eggs,  I  dissected  a  specimen  of 
Argonauta  tuberculosa,  which  was  firmly  embracing  the 
shell,  which  contained  a  large  mass  of  eggs  occupying  the 


224  OVIPOSITION  OF  THE  ARGONAUT. 

discoidal  portion  of  the  chamber,  and  the  posterior  portion 
of  the  roof.*  The  eggs  very  numerous,  ovoid,  pale- 
yellow,  and  semipellucid,  are  all  united  together  by  a 
delicate,  glutinous,  transparent,  filamentous  web  which  is 
attached  to  each  ovum  by  a  slender,  tapering  peduncle 
fixed  to  one  extremity.  The  entire  egg-mass  is  suspended 
to  the  body-whorl  of  the  spire,  at  its  anterior  part,  by 
means  of  a  pencil  of  delicate  glutinous  threads,  which  re- 
tain it  in  a  proper  position. 

On  my  return  to  England,  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
examining  the  figures  which  Poli  has  given  us  in  his  mag- 
nificent work,  "Testacea  utriusque  Sicilise,"  where  he  has 
represented  the  egg-mass,  though  not  in  situ,  but  unra- 
velled, f  He  observes  regarding  this  body:  "Ovorum 
congeries  eboris  nitorem  aemulantiuni,  partim  jam  ab 
ovario  emissa,  ac  racemorum  instar  composita,  cymbae 
puppi  involute  adhaerebat.j"  Professor  Owen,  in  his 
Lectures  on  Invertebrate  Animals,  mentions  the  same 
fact ;  he  observes  that  "in  the  Argonaut,  the  minute  ova 
are  appended  by  long  filamentary  stalks  to  the  cavity  of 
the  involuted  spire  of  the  shell,  where  they  are  hatched.** 

The  posterior,  globular  part  of  the  body  of  the  female 
is  in  close  opposition  to  the  mass  of  ova,  and  thus,  like  a 
strange  aquatic  Mygale,  or  other  spider,  does  this  re- 
markable Cephalopod  carry  about  her  eggs  in  a  light 

*  Tills  calcareous  nest  of  the  Argonaut,  so  ingeniously  formed  by  the 
instinct  of  the  mother  for  the  purpose  of  protecting  her  eggs  from  injury, 
thus  resembles,  in  some  measure,  those  nidimental  capsules  secreted  by 
many  marine  Gasteropods  for  the  preservation  of  the  immature  embryos. 

f  Tab.  xli.  f.  2. 
\  p.  10. 

*  *  Lect.  on  Comp.  Anat.  of  Inv.  An.  p.  360. 


DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  ARGONAUT.  525 

calcareous  nest,  which  she  firmly  retains  possession  of  by 
means  of  the  broad,  expanded,  delicate  membranes  of  the 
posterior  pair  of  tentacles.  When  disturbed  or  captured, 
however,  she  loosens  her  hold,  and  leaving  her  cradle  to 
its  fate,  swims  about  independent  of  her  shell.  There  is 
not,  indeed,  the  slightest  vestige  of  any  muscular  attach- 
ment. In  the  specimen  from  which  I  made  the  drawings 
which  will  be  given  in  the  "Zoology  of  the  Samarang," 
the  ovary  was  distended  with  ova,  but  in  a  much  less  ad- 
vanced stage  of  development  than  those  deposited  in  the 
shelly  nidus.  Some  of  these  latter  were  sufficiently 
matured  to  enable  me  to  trace,  under  the  microscope,  the 
early  indications  of  the  being  of  the  Argonaut,  and  al- 
though I  have  not  followed  the  process  very  far,  it  is 
sufficient  to  ascertain  the  similarity,  in  a  great  measure, 
with  the  changes  observed  by  Poli  in  the  same  genus,  with 
whose  remarks  I  have  compared  my  own  :  the  only  differ- 
ence, of  any  importance,  appears  to  be,  that  Poli  has 
regarded  as  the  shell  what  I  have  called  the  yolk-bag. 
At  first,  the  ova  are  semi-opaque,  pale-yellow,  and  appa- 
rently minutely  speckled,  which  is  owing  to  the  granular 
yolk  seen  through  the  delicate  shell  of  the  egg;  afterwards, 
they  become  clouded  with  light  brown  blotches,  and  three 
dark  spots  make  their  appearance,  one  for  each  eye,  and 
one  for  the  viscera;  these  spots,  in  the  next  stage,  ap- 
proach each  other,  and  a  faint  outline  of  the  future 
Argonaut  is  perceived  in  the  form  of  a  club-shaped 
embryo,  rounded  in  front  and  tapering  behind;  the  front 
part  then  becomes  lobed,  a  black  mark  for  the  horny 
mandibles  is  perceived,  and  the  eyes  become  large  and 
prominent.  The  yolk-bag  or  vitellus,  is  next  seen  very 


526  THE  ARGONAUT. 

distinctly,  and  the  processes,  extending  from  the  head,  are 
become  more  elongated.  Here,  however,  I  was  obliged 
to  stop,  this  being  the  most  perfectly-developed  embryo 
I  could  find  among  the  ova.  The  eggs  in  contact  with 
the  front  part  of  the  discoidal  portion  of  the  shell,  where 
the  egg-mass  is  attached  by  the  glutinous  threads,  are  the 
most  forward  in  their  development,  while  those  in  the 
posterior  part  of  the  chamber,  are  much  less  matured. 
Poli's  account  of  the  development  of  the  ova  is  as  follows: 
"Ova  quae  in  primis  eburneo  candore  nitebant,  tenui  veluti 
nubecula  perfundebantur;  mox  bina  puncta  subrubentia 
hinc  et  illinc  sese  conspicienda  praebuerunt  in  regione 
oculorum  eaque  deinceps  protuberantia  evadebant.  His 
perfectis,  aliud  punctum  eodem  colore  perfusum  prope  ovi 
fastigium  oculos  supereminens  apparuit :  quod  quidem 
oris  embrionem  satis  luculenter  ostendebat."* 

There  is  considerable  difference  between  the  animals  of 
Argonauta  tuberculosa  and  A.  hians.  In  the  A.  tuberculosa 
the  sac-like  mantle  is  more  ovoid  and  elongated ;  the  head 
is  narrower;  the  infundibulum  is  broader,  shorter,  and  fur- 
nished, at  the  upper  and  anterior  extremity,  with  two 
conical  prolongations ;  the  eyes  are  considerably  larger, 
and  slightly  more  prominent;  the  tentacular  arms  are 
much  shorter  in  comparison,  and  of  greater  width,  more 
particularly  at  their  basal  portions.  The  suckers  are  much 
larger,  more  prominent,  and  placed  closer  together.  This 
species  varies  also  considerably  in  colour  from  A.  hians. 
The  extremities  of  the  brachia  are  marbled  with  deep  red- 
brown  ;  and,  in  the  other  parts,  are  covered  with  large 

*  Test,  utriusq.  Sicilise,  &c.,  p.  10. 


THE  ARGONAUT.  527 

irregular,  oval,  reddish  blotches,  each  margined  with  a 
dark  colour.  The  circumference  of  the  suckers  is  marked 
with  brown  spots.  The  upper  surface  of  the  infundibulum 
is  covered  with  pale  pink,  rather  scattered,  and  irregular 
quadrate  blotches,  margined  with  a  dark  red-brown.  The 
mantle,  on  the  dorsal  surface,  is  densely  sprinkled  with 
round  and  square  spots  of  a  chesnut-brown  and  crimson,  of 
different  sizes.  The  velamenta  are  minutely  punctulated 
with  crimson  and  red  brown,  and  have  a  more  bluish  tinge 
than  those  of  A.  hians.  The  under  surface  is  mottled  and 
punctulated  with  dark  chocolate  on  the  arms,  and  on  the 
body,  is  marked  with  small,  irregular, dark,  red-brown  spots. 
In  Argonauta  hians,  the  body  is  more  globose,  and  broader 
from  side  to  side,  the  head  is  much  wider,  and  the  ten- 
tacles are  narrower  and  more  elongated.  The  suckers  are 
less  elevated,  smaller  in  comparison,  and  situated  at  a 
greater  distance  from  each  other.  The  mantle  is  covered 
with  round  spots  and  longitudinal  linear  markings,  of  a 
bright  crimson  colour.  The  entire  animal  wants  the 
brown,  dark  appearance  produced  by  the  markings  of 
A.  tuberculosa,  and  is  of  a  lighter  tinge  and  more  delicate 
appearance. 

The  following  Epigram  of  Callimachus  on  a  Nautilus 
which  addresses  Venus,  on  having  been  deposited  by 
Selene  as  a  votive  offering  of  maidenhood  in  her  temple, 
though  often  alluded  to  by  writers  on  Natural  History, 
has  not,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  been  hitherto  rendered 
into  English.  My  readers  are  indebted  for  the  present 
version  to  my  brother,  Mr.  Ernest  Adams,  who  informs 
me  that  it  was  the  custom  of  the  Greek  girls,  on  arriving 


528  EPIGRAM  ON  THE  ARGONAUT. 

at  years  of  discretion,  to  consecrate  to  Venus  the  play- 
things of  their  childhood : 

"  Once  as  a  sailor-shell  I  sported  o'er 
The  azure  wave :  but  now  on  Smyrna's  shore, 
Cypris,  I  grace  thy  shrine — the  darling  toy 
Of  fair  Selene  and  her  childhood's  joy. 
If  wandering  winds  breathed  soft,  my  tiny  sail 
Was  duly  spread  to  catch  the  summer  gale : 
If  golden  calm  upon  the  waters  came 
My  nimble  feet  were  oars  ;  and  hence  my  name  :* 
I  cast  myself  on  Julis'  shore,  that  thou 
Mightst  glory,  Cypris,  in  the  maiden's  vow. 
No  radiant  Halcyon  now  with  azure  crest 
Will  seek  my  chambers  for  its  sunny  nest. 
Thank  fair  Selene,  then,  whose  virtues  grace 
The  city  of  her  proud  .ZEolian  race." 

Becalmed  off  the  African  coast,  some  hundred  miles 
from  the  land,  large  numbers  of  insects  were  perceived 
floating  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  some  Acrydia  and 
Locusts  being  still  alive.  A  large  species  of  Colymbetes 
was  taken  quite  perfect ;  but  other  singular  forms,  as 
Coreus,  &c.,  were  more  or  less  injured  by  the  action  of 
the  water.  These  were  blown  by  the  off-shore  breeze, 
most  probably  from  flat,  sandy  tracts,  where  there  is  but 
little  shelter  and  few  trees.  More  than  one  species  of 
Halobates  was  seen  swimming  on  the  calm  water,  in  the 
manner  of  Gerris  and  Geometra,  by  sudden  jerks.  This 
insect  however  appears,  if  not  pelagic,  to  be  at  least 
altogether  marine. 

*  Polypus — many-footed. 


529 


CONCLUDING  REMARKS. 


"  When  a  traveller  returneth  home,"  says  Bacon,  "  let 
him  not  leave  the  countries  where  he  hath  travelled  alto- 
gether behind  him."  Acting  up  to  this  excellent  advice, 
I  have,  in  the  preceding  Journal,  written  at  the  time,  and 
generally  on  the  spot,  thrown  together  notes  on  the  habits 
of  various  animals,  and  a  few  ethnographical  and  physical 
remarks  on  the  inhabitants  of  the  countries  visited  during 
the  expedition  of  the  Samarang ;  and  with  these  I  have 
interspersed,  here  and  there,  desultory  botanical  observa- 
tions, and  short  descriptions  of  natural  scenery.  Being 
but  an  amateur  Naturalist,  and  not  extensively  ac- 
quainted with  the  bibliography  of  Zoological  science,  I 
have  seldom  ventured  to  give  more  than  the  name  of  the 
generic  group  to  which  the  animals  I  have  alluded  to, 
respectively  belong.  The  scientific  results  of  the  voyage 
will  be  brought  before  the  public  in  the  "  Zoology  of 
the  Samarang,"  now  preparing  for  publication. 

The  researches  of  various  nations  in  the  Indian  Archipe- 
lago, and  among  the  islands  of  the  Chinese  Seas,  instituted 
by  the  wise  liberality  of  European  governments,  or  sug- 
gested by  the  pious  zeal  of  philanthropic  men,  have  been 
gradually  revealing  numerous  interesting  and  important 
phenomena  in  the  history  of  that  comparatively  unknown 
world.  The  wonderful  and  mysterious  forms  of  animal 
and  vegetable  life  that  enliven  those  ocean-gardens,  and 
the  physical  and  social  peculiarities  of  the  various  tribes 
that  inhabit  them,  are  daily  becoming  more  familiar  to 

VOL.  IT.  2  M 


530    '  CONCLUDING 

the  reading  public.  Our  political  connexion  with  the 
Chinese  coast,  has  invested  the  numerous  tribes,  that 
throng  the  approaches  to  their  ports,  with  an  interest 
they  never  possessed  before ;  and  the  recent  cession  of 
Labuan  has,  perhaps,  laid  the  foundation  of  a  British 
interest  in  those  seas,  that  may  materially  interest  the 
future  destinies  of  our  eastern  possessions. 

All  over  the  world  Creative  Intelligence  has  thrown 
organic  matter  into  living  forms  of  such  interest  and 
beauty,  that  the  "divina  particula  animi,"  which  ren- 
ders man 

"  Lord  of  the  wide  world  and  wat'ry  seas, 
Endu'd  with  intellectual  sense  and  soul," 

cannot  fail  to  observe  them,  and,  having  observed,  to 
appreciate,  and  endeavour  to  make  others  appreciate  them. 
Now,  being  engaged  in  the  survey  of  seas  hitherto  but 
imperfectly  explored,  and  in  the  examination  of  islands, 
many  of  them  barely  known  beyond  their  existence  on 
the  charts,  it  is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at,  that  our  harvest 
has  been  plentiful  and  our  researches  crowned  with  suc- 
cess. And  really,  when  among  those  chosen  individuals, 
who  are  destined,  "  mid  sands,  and  rocks,  and  storms, 
to  cruise  for  pleasure,"  I  observe  any  of  their  number 
pass  unheeded  by  such  golden  opportunities  as  they  might 
enjoy,  I  am  apt  to  exclaim  with  Beattie's  Minstrel,-— 

"  O,  how  canst  thou  renounce  the  boundless  store 

Of  charms  which  Nature  to  her  votary  yields  ! 
****** 

O,  how  canst  thou  renounce,  and  hope  to  be  forgiven !" 

Keen  perceptions  of  the  sublime  and  beautiful  in  nature, 
constitute  in  an  intelligent  mind  one  of  the  most  pleasur- 


REMARKS.  531 

able  sources  of  human  enjoyment ;  and  I  agree  with  what 
Pythagoras  is  reported  to  have  said  in  his  conversation 
with  Leontius,  that  "  as  there  is  nothing  more  noble  than 
to  be  a  spectator  without  any  personal  interest,  so,  in  this 
life,  the  contemplation  and  knowledge  of  nature  are  infi- 
nitely more  honourable  than  any  other  application."  My 
opportunities  of  ascertaining  the  existence,  and  defining 
the  limits,  of  those  centres  of  organization  said  to  exist  on 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  which  researches  into  the 
geographical  distribution  of  plants  and  animals  tend  to 
elucidate,  have  been  very  limited  •  indeed  a  Naturalist,  in 
a  ship,  may  be  compared  to  a  bird  of  passage,  which,  re- 
posing here  and  there  in  the  course  of  its  flight,  gathers 
a  stray  grain  or  so,  and  is  off  in  a  moment ;  nor  must  the 
remark  of  Bernardin  de  Saint-Pierre  be  lost  sight  of:— 
"  La  nature  est  infiniment  etendue,  et  je  suis  un  horn  me 
tres-borne."* 

With  reference  to  the  natural  history  of  the  Philippines, 
that  sagacious  and  most  indefatigable  traveller,  Hugh 
Cuming,  Esq.,  has  anticipated  us  in  many  points ;  and  in 
the  China  Seas,  the  elaborate  researches  of  De  Haan  and 
others,  have  left  us  little  more  to  do  than  follow  in  their 
footsteps.  A  parting  word  in  extenuation  of  the  style  I 
have  adopted  in  the  preceding  Summary,  and  I  respect- 
fully take  my  leave.  It  is,  I  think,  right,  that  in  the  pre- 
sent reading  age,  the  Naturalist  should  impart  to  the 

*  The  multifarious  avocations  of  the  Naturalist  are  thus  pleasantly 
alluded  to  in  a  letter  written  by  De  Lamanon,  one  of  the  unfortunate 
Zoologists  of  the  Expedition  of  La  Perousc  :  "  I  have  fish  to  anatomize, 
quadrupeds  to  describe,  insects  to  catch,  shells  to  class,  events  to  relate, 
mountains  to  measure,  stones  to  collect,  languages  to  study,  experiments 
to  make,  a  journal  to  write,  and  Nature  to  contemplate." 

2  M  2 


532  CONCLUDING  REMARKS. 

public  some  of  the  amenities  of  science,  as  well  as  those 
results  of  graver  studies,  which  can  necessarily  be  appre- 
ciated by  but  few.  What  a  pleasant  halo,  for  example, 
has  Darwin  thrown  around  the  Linnsean  system  of  Botan- 
ical arrangement,  by  bestowing  on  us  his  "  Botanic 
Garden!"  White  of  Selbourne,  Waterton,  and  Mudie 
have  bestowed  the  same  bright  charm  on  Ornithology, 
Johnson  on  Zoophytes,  and  Mantell  on  Geology.  It 
savours  of  melancholy  to  admire  beauty  only  in  termino- 
logies, and,  as  Alfred  Tennyson  observes, 

"  See  no  divinity  in  grass, 
Life  in  dead  stones,  or  spirit  in  air." 


533 


A  BRIEF 


VOCABULARY  OF  LANGUAGES, 


IT  was  my  original  intention  to  confine  the  following  Vocabulary 
simply  to  those  words  which  would  have  served  as  comparisons 
for  Philological  purposes,  and  the  observations  of  Mr.  Adams 
applied  directly  to  that  object.  The  materials  in  my  possession 
appeared,  however,  of  so  much  importance  to  seamen  visiting 
the  regions  to  which  the  Vocabulary  referred,  that  it  has  in- 
sensibly swelled  in  volume  to  its  present  dimensions ;  and  will, 
I  trust,  serve  the  purpose  of  aiding  visitors  in  obtaining  supplies, 
or  in  making  known  either  distress  or  important  wants.  It 
is  not  given  with  any  pretension  to  a  knowledge  of  the  various 
languages  of  which  it  is  composed ;  all  I  claim  is  a  most  scrupulous 
attention  to  the  authorities  from  which  it  has  been  compiled,  and, 
from  the  nature  of  the  very  conflicting  documents,  a  labour  far 
beyond  what  I  had  anticipated. 

The  work  was  commenced  amongst  the  Islands  of  the  Eastern 
Archipelago,  with  the  intention  of  completing,  as  my  own  study 
should  qualify  me,  a  general  Vocabulary  for  those  regions  and 
upon  the  most  extended  scale.  Our  return  before  this  could  be 
carried  out,  compelled  me  to  cut  off  the  work  at  the  point  to  which 
it  would  be  useful  to  the  Philologist ;  and  in  this  state  only  it  now 
appears,  although  more  extensive  materials  remain  for  further 
pursuit.  I  will,  therefore,  merely  state  the  authorities  which  have 
been  consulted,  and  trust  my  production  to  the  mercy  of  critics, 
as  a  melange  of  well-authorized  words  in  their  several  language!*. 


534  VOCABULARY 

The  Sooloo  terms  were  obtained  from  perhaps  the  purest  source 
in  Sooloo,  viz.  from  the  Datoo  Danielle  and  his  family.  The 
Malay  printed  characters  being  placed  before  them,  they  first  pro- 
nounced the  Malay  word,  as  exhibited  in  English  characters,  and 
then  gave  the  corresponding  term  in  the  Sooloo  language.  As 
this  was  frequently  repeated  in  the  same  work,  similar  relative 
terms,  given  by  separate  members  of  the  family,  served  to  check 
mistakes.  In  the  Malay  terms  I  have  adhered  to  Marsden's 
Dictionary,  although  the  Dutch  Dictionary,  as  well  as  the  Voca- 
bulary of  the  College  of  Malacca,  varies  considerably,  especially  in 
the  use  of  i :  thus,  we  have  for  black,  Htam,  itam,  and  etam ;  the 
latter  is  that  of  Marsden ;  it  is  at  variance  with  the  Malay  sound, 
for  which  I  should  prefer  itam.  The  Bisayan,  Iloco,  and  Cagayan 
are  partly  taken  from  the  work  on  the  "  Klipinas  "  before  alluded 
to,  as  well  as  from  my  own  notes,  aided  by  the  Padres  of  Batan, 
and  my  friends  at  Manila.  To  the  Padres  of  Batan  I  am  indebted 
entirely  for  the  language  of  that  Island,  great  part  of  which  was 
written  by  them  for  the  use  of  the  newly-arrived  Padres.  The 
Tagala  has  been  derived  from  a  very  complete  work  published 
in  1796.  The  Chinese  is  from  a  Vocabulary  by  the  American 
Missionary,  Dr.  Bridgeman ;  and  the  Korean  and  Japanese  from 
publications  by  Medhurst,  1830,  and  Philo  Sinensis,  1835,  at 
Batavia.  The  three  latter  languages  being  rarely  understood 
without  the  written  character,  may  not  be  so  completely  useful  to 
the  traveller ;  but  I  have  had  sufficient  experience  of  their  value 
to  know  that  the  natives  will  comprehend  if  they  wish.  It  is 
invariably  the  practice  of  these  people  to  affect  great  mystery 
about  their  spoken  language ;  they  will  not  understand  unless  it 
suits  their  purpose  or  interest,  and  this  most  especially  with  the 
Japanese 

Trusting  my  efforts  in  this  cause  will  be  received  with  simply 
the  credit  due  to  a  collector  of  scraps,  and  hoping  that  it  may 
prove  useful  to  the  traveller,  I  leave  it  to  its  fate  with  the  following 
observations  of  Mr.  Ernest  Adams. 


OP  LANGUAGES.  535 


INTRODUCTORY  OBSERVATIONS 


ERNEST  ADAMS,  ESQ. 

THE  peculiar  discovery  of  our  own  age,  that  comparative  philology 
must  ever  constitute  an  important  agent  in  any  investigation 
into  the  ancient  history  of  a  nation,  must  shortly  test  its  value 
and  accuracy  by  an  analysis  of  the  scattered  dialects  of  the 
East,  and  a  careful  comparison  with  the  oriental  branches  of  the 
Indo-European  family  of  languages ;  and  whoever  contributes,  in 
however  limited  a  degree,  to  the  prosecution  of  these  researches, 
is  entitled  to  the  thanks  of  all  who  are  interested  in  historical 
speculations.  The  collection  and  publication  of  vocabularies  by 
those,  whose  peculiar  position  and  pursuits  have  afforded  them 
facilities  for  the  acquisition  of  such  information,  are  always  valu- 
able. It  should  be  the  especial  care  of  gentlemen  commissioned 
to  explore  regions  comparatively  unknown,  not  merely  to  accumu- 
late the  beautiful  forms  of  organic  life,  and  information  of  a 
commercial  and  political  value,  but  to  secure,  by  a  copious  collec- 
tion of  vocabularies,  and  a  careful  examination  of  the  physical 
characteristics  of  the  people,  materials  for  tracing  their  social  and 
political  existence  in  ages  of  which  the  recording  monuments 
have  long  been  lost.  When  the  usual  beacons  of  the  historical 
explorer  are  extinguished  and  the  land-marks  destroyed,  Compa- 
rative Philology  discovers  in  the  mystic  thread  of  language,  a 
guide  through  the  perplexing  labyrinth;  the  darkness  becomes 
less  palpable ;  the  forgotten  and  unrecorded  actions  of  tribes  and 
nations,  mighty  and  enterprising  when  the  world  was  young, 
emerge,  life-like,  from  the  obscurity  of  ages.  Comparative  Philo- 
logy is  to  the  Ethnographic  explorer  what  Comparative  Anatomy 
is  to  the  Geologist.  If  a  few  scattered  fragments  are  given,  the 
lost  marvel  of  a  former  epoch  may  be  re-produced. 


536  VOCABULARY 

Influenced  by  this  feeling,  Sir  Edward  Belcher  has  resolved 
to  submit  to  the  public  the  following  vocabulary,  which  he 
collected  during  his  intercourse  with  the  oriental  islanders.  They 
consist  of  specimens  of  the  Tagala,  Iloco,  Bisayan,  Batan,  Sooloo, 
Japanese,  Chinese,  and  Korean,  with  the  corresponding  words 
in  Malay,  English,  and  Spanish. 

It  is'  of  course  unnecessary  to  remind  the  professed  philologist 
of  the  indisputable  fact  of  the  identity  in  origin  of  all  the  languages 
of  the  Indian  Archipelago  and  of  the  South  Pacific;  but  the 
general  reader  may  perhaps  require  a  brief  intimation  of  the  fact, 
and  of  the  relative  position  of  these  various  dialects  in  the  great 
Malayo-Polynesian  family. 

The  Tagala,  or  more  properly  Gala,  (ta  being,  according  to 
Dr.  Leyden,  merely  the  article,)  the  most  ancient  and  wide-spread 
of  the  dialects  of  the  Philippine  Group,  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
remarkable  member  of  the  Malayo-Polynesian  family.  Its  orga- 
nism is  by  far  the  most  perfect;  its  inflexions  are  most  fully 
developed ;  and  its  peculiarities  are  retained  in  a  state  of  greater 
purity  and  freedom  from  admixture  with  foreign  elements,  than 
is  usually  to  be  found  in  the  case  of  those  tribes  who  have  been 
exposed  to  the  disturbing  influences  of  Arabic  and  Spanish 
connexions.  The  structure  of  the  language  has  been  examined 
with  great  industry,  and  its  elaborate  and  perfect  organization 
successfully  elucidated,  by  Baron  W.  Von  Humboldt,  in  the  course 
of  the  interesting  inquiries  contained  in  his  '  Kawi-Sprache/  "  I 
commence,"  he  observes  (vol.  ii.  p.  315.  §  16.)  "with  the  Tagala; 
because  it  may  be  assumed  as  the  primitive  language  and  original 
source  of  the  rest,  inasmuch  as  it  contains  the  peculiar  structure 
of  these  languages  in  the  clearest  and  most  perfect  form.  It 
embraces  collectively  all  the  forms  of  which  only  solitary  examples 
are  discovered  in  the  other  dialects,  and  has  preserved  them,  with 
very  trifling  exceptions,  unmutilated  and  in  perfect  analog}'." 

The  grammatical  structure  of  the  language,  although  not  gene- 
rally known  to  philologists,  is  still  accessible  to  all  who  are  ac- 
quainted with  German  literature ;  but  I  am  not  aware  that  any 
further  attempts  have  been  made  to  form  a  Dictionary  and  to 
supply  the  curious  enquirer  with  comparative  tables,  than  a  few 


OF  LANGUAGES.  537 

vocabularies  of  limited  extent,  scattered  through  the  writings  of 
the  Spanish  missionaries,  many  of  whom  were  acquainted  with 
the  language,  and  have  translated  several  religious  works  into 
Tagala. 

The  structure  of  the  Bisayan  dialect,  spoken  in  the  islands  of 
the  Bisayan  Archipelago,  part  of  the  Philippine  Group,  is  similar 
to  that  of  Tagala ;  "  der  allgemeine  Typus  beiden  derselbe  ist/' 
says  Humboldt.  But,  though  cognate  languages  in  origin,  the 
Bisayan  differs  as  a  dialect  from  the  Tagala.  The  examples 
adduced  in  the  comparative  tables  amply  demonstrate  the  close 
connexion  between  them. 

The  Iloco,  another  Philippine  dialect,  spoken  in  certain  parts 
of  the  Island  of  Luzon,  stands  in  the  same  relation  to  the  Tagala, 
as  the  Bisayan;  but  its  local  distribution  appears  to  be  much 
more  confined. 

The  Batan,  or  Bashee,  is  spoken  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  small 
group  of  islands  of  that  name,  lying  to  the  north  of  the  Philippines, 
and,  as  may  naturally  be  supposed  from  the  geographical  position 
of  the  islands,  is  closely  allied  to  the  Tagala.  Indeed,  the  in- 
habitants are  stated  to  have  been  a  colonial  off-shoot  from  the 
powerful  neighbouring  tribes  of  Luzon. 

The  Suluk,  or,  as  it  is  commonly  written,  Sooloo,  is  certainly 
identical  in  origin  with  the  other  members  of  the  Malayo-Poly- 
nesian  family ;  but  is  more  widely  separated  from  the  Tagala  than 
either  the  Bisayan  or  the  Iloco.  We  shall  presently  see  that  it 
presents  points  of  identity  with  the  Tagala  on  the  one  hand,  and 
with  the  Bornese  Dyak  on  the  other. 

There  exist  various  and  striking  peculiarities  in  the  physical 
appearance  of  the  inhabitants  of  nearly  all  these  islands;  those 
dwelling  in  the  interior  and  on  the  mountains,  usually  exhibiting 
a  different  conformation  from  those  on  the  plains  and  the  sea 
coast.  But  in  spite  of  these  physical  peculiarities,  there  can  be 
little  doubt  of  the  actual  identity,  at  a  remote  period  of  the  world's 
history,  of  these  mountaineers  with  the  Malays  and  other  tribes 
that  have  settled  on  the  coasts,  and  colonized  those  portions  of 
the  islands  with  the  usual  daring  and  success  of  a  maritime  people. 
Even  the  Dyaks  of  Borneo,  whose  language  and  external  appear- 

VOL.  n.  2  N 


538 


VOCABULARY 


ance  have  led  many  enquirers  to  consider  them  as  a  race  distinct 
from  the  Malays  and  the  tribes  inhabiting  the  neighbouring  islands, 
must  have  been  indebted  to  some  common  parent-stock  for  the 
language  they  now  possess.  Consider  the  following  comparative 
table  of  Suluk,  Malay,  and  Dyak  words,  a  table  which  might 
readily  be  extended,  but  which  is  sufficient  for  our  purpose. 

COMPARATIVE   TABLE. 


English. 

Suluk. 

Malay. 

Dyak. 

Sun 

mata  suga 

mata  ari 

mata  su 

Moon 

bulau 

bulan 

bulau 

Hair 

bohook 

rambut 

bok 

Head 

66 

kapala 

uho 

Ear 

taingah 

telinga 

telinga 

Eye 

mata 

mata 

mata 

Nose 

hilung 

idong 

idong 

Mouth 

simud 

mulut 

mulut 

Teeth 

ipuu 

gigi 

jipun-nipuu 

Tongue 

lilah 

lidah 

dila 

Leg 

bitis 

kaki-betis 

kake-betis 

Foot 

siki 

kaki 

kaki 

Wife 

banah,  sawah 

bini 

sawa 

Father 

ama 

bapa 

ama 

Mother 

inah 

ma 

inna 

Sea 

lau  ood 

laut 

laud 

Star 

bitoon 

bihtang 

bitang 

River 

soo  bah 

sungei 

sungei 

Wind 

angin 

angin 

angin 

Deer 

umbun 

umbun 

ambun 

Hog 

babici 

babi 

babi 

Gold 

amas 

amas 

amas,  mas 

Iron 

basi 

besi 

besi 

Salt 

asin 

masin 

siah 

Black 

mai  toom 

clam 

mitum 

This  table  places  the  Suluk  language  in  close  connection  with 
that  of  the  Dyaks.  It  would  be  easy  to  construct  a  similar  table 
to  prove  its  identity  with  the  Tagala  language. 

It  is  time,  then,  that  the  medium  of  intercourse  with  these 
nations,  the  various  dialects  spoken  among  the  islands,  should 


OP  LANGUAGES.  539 

arrest  the  attention  of  the  Philologist,  and  undergo  that  patient 
and  careful  investigation,  which  the  importance  of  the  subject 
demands.  The  inhabitants  of  these  seas,  scattered  in  dense  masses 
over  a  large  portion  of  the  eastern  world,  and  connected  for  so 
many  centuries  with  the  interests  and  political  prosperity  of 
European  nations,  have,  till  very  recently,  occupied  an  ambiguous, 
and  perhaps  false,  position  in  our  ethnographic  and  philological 
charts. 


540 


VOCABULARY 


English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

ABDOMEN 

abdomen 

prut 

tian 

Able 

habil 

kwasa 

manjadi 

Above 

arriba 

de-atas 

sa  itaas 

hata  as 

ngato 

Abundant 

abundante 

limpah 

mata  aoud 

Acid 

acido 

masam 

mas  1  nn  i 

Act  (to) 

hacer 

buat 

hinang 

Aged 

viego 

tuah 

tigulang 

ma  as 

lakai 

Alike 

igualmente 

sama 

sab  lib 

Alive 

vivo 

idup 

bohih 

All 

todo 

samoa 

angtanan 

kataau 

Mini  n 

Alone 

solo 

asa 

usra 

mey  me 

Also 

tambien 

lagi 

naman 

castame 

Always 

siempre 

santiasa 

gihapon 

agnana^ 

Anchor 

ancla 

sauh 

bojae 

Anchor  (to) 

anclar 

labuh 

bogan 

And 

y 

dan 

i  van 

Anger 

ira 

amarah 

mangah  mah 

mangah 

Approach  (to) 

acercar 

ampookan 

Arm 

braao 

langan 

Arrive 

llegar 

sampei 

abul 

aso  ma  toug 

ida  date 

Assist 

ayutar 

na  no  nolong 

BAD 

malo 

jahat 

dautan 

manghi,  jahat 

daques 

Bamboo 

bamboa 

bambu 

Bay 

bahia 

teluk 

looc 

loo-ooc 

Bed 

cama 

tampat  tidor 

higdaan 

pug  tu  gan 

idda 

Before 

delante 

demuka 

sa  atubangan 

hahaapau 

sango 

Behind 

detras 

de  blakang 

sa  licuran 

ha  tai  ikood 

licudan 

Behold 

mirar 

pandang,  tinju 

mirar 

atood,  koang 

mirar 

Believe 

creer 

perchaya 

mag  too 

ahagadkah 

panang 

Belly 

vientre 

prut 

tian 

Below 

abajo 

de  bawah 

sa  obos 

habawab 

baba 

Better 

mejor 

ebih  baik 

labing  ma  ayo 

bukon  mariaou 

nasaysa 

Bird 

paxaro 

burong 

lungam,  mauuk 

mauuk 

tumataj 

Black 

negro 

etam 

maitirn 

maitoom 

nangisi 

Blood 

sangre 

da  rah 

dugu 

dugu 

darat 

Blue 

azul 

biru,  etam 

azul 

bilu 

azul 

Boil  (to) 

cocer 

masak 

mag  luto 

bookal 

panglut 

Bone 

hueso 

tulang 

boo-koog 

Both 

los  kos 

ka-dua 

Boy 

muchacho 

anak  laki-laki 

anak  oosoog 

541 


OF    LANGUAGES. 


Satan. 

Cog  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

budek 

tiyan 

tufa 

footoo  bara 

pai 

ma 

nang 

no  woo,  yokf 

noong  har 

utuu 

itaas 

tsai  shang 

oo-ye-ni 

66s 

racug 

hilab 

fan  shing 

amata 

na  oor 

asim 

swan 

soo-yu-ki 

swir 

mamarin 

gaud 

tso 

o-ka-naf 

har 

lakalakai 

matanda 

lau  nien 

oi,  to  si  yo  ri 

noor  koor 

camucha 

siang  tung 

o-na-zi-si 

ban  ka  tsi 

buhay 

kwoh  tung 

ugamin 

lahat 

kiai 

mi  na 

moo  root 

laman 

ysa 

tu  yi 

hoor 

caan 

cunepaga 

iiEiman 

yi 

ma-da 

tto 

mafuga 

tuituina 

chang  shi 

it-te-mo 

myon  myon 

sao 

nau 

i-ka-ri 

tat 

koo  66  te  i 

i-ka  ri  6  ros 

p'ho  tyong 

caan 

at 

ping 

de,  to-woo-si-te 

mar  ni  oor 

cailot 

enojo,  galit 

nu  ki 

i-ka-ri 

poon  har 

mipangsen 

cohit 

king  kin 

tsootif 

lim  har 

quiguddian 

camay 

shau  pi,  hi 

hi  zi 

p'har 

sinalien,  mauara 

lubbe 

dating 

tai  tau 

i-tar 

ta  ta  roor 

tolong 

siang  pang 

torit 

poot  toor 

maraghet 

marakai 

masama 

tai 

warsi 

mo  tsir 

ka  oo  ai  an 

cauayan 

chu,  tsik 

ta-ke 

tai 

kana  ian,  banua 

looc 

hai  wan 

ha-ma 

moor  koo  pooi 

ichigan 

aguiddan 

banis? 

chuang 

yoo-ka 

sang 

arubang 

sa  harapau 

tsung  tsien 

ma-ye-ni 

arp 

licuc 

licurran 

hau  mien 

no-tsi-ni 

tooi 

paca,  singan 

kan 

mi-ka-her 

por 

manguruc 

manioala 

sin 

zin-sur 

sin  t'hyong 

bndek 

tiyan 

tufu 

ha-ra 

pal  pok 

gucah 

ibaba 

hia,  ka 

sitani 

arai 

mapipia 

curuga  mapia 

maigni 

kang  hau 

yori  yokf  ' 

ts'har  a  ri 

mamauu 

ibon 

niau,  ty5 

to-ri 

sai 

mabaghen 

manguiu 

maytim 

hi,  kok 

kfoo-ro-si 

ko  moor 

daga 

dugu 

bine 

tsi 

p'hi 

majah,  buhun 

fucca 

bughao 

an 

ha-na 

tsok 

cugatea 

palutu 

magluta 

chiu 

ir',  nir', 

sar  moor 

tughan 

ku  tau 

ho-nc 

spyo 

sira  da  dua 

quita 

liang  ko 

foo-ta-bc 

too 

mudeg 

bat  a 

tung  tsi 

moos-ko 

syo  tong 

542 


VOCABULARY 


English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloeo. 

Bread 

pan 

roti 

tinapay 

apain 

tinapay 

Break  (to) 

romper 

patah 

mag  quisi 

bag-bag,  bilak 

pauang  piguis 

Breast 

pecho 

dada 

dag  hah 

Bring 

traer 

bawa 

dalhin 

da  hah 

panang  ipan 

Brother 

hermano 

sudara  laki  laki 

igsuon  uga  laqui 

cabsat  a  lalaqui 

Bullock 

huey 

sapi  kasim 

vaca 

baca 

Burn 

quemar 

bakar 

mag  sunug             sagar 

panang  urum 

Butter 

manteca 

mantega 

tambok                  mantecilla 

manteca 

Buy 

comprar 

bill 

mag  pal  it             ;  bii 

igagatang 

CALF  (of  leg) 

pantorilla 

jantong  betis 

jantong  bitis 

Calico 

calicad 

kain  putih 

kain  putih 

Call 

llamar 

panggil 

tawang 

Calm 

calma 

tedoh 

li  noh 

Cape 

cabo 

tanjong 

duhul  tandoh 

Careless 

descuidado 

lalci 

ma  la  lei 

Carry 

llevar 

pikul 

mak  dar 

Cat 

gato 

kuching 

kuting 

Catch 

coger 

cangkap 

sag  gow 

Chain 

cadena 

rantei 

Change  (to) 

cambriar 

ubah 

ganti 

Channel 

canal 

trus-an 

Cheap 

barato 

murah 

mulah 

Cheat  (to) 

enganar 

kichu 

Chief 

xefe 

kapala 

Child 

infante 

anak 

anak 

China 

China 

benua  China 

Choose 

elegir 

piilih 

mag  pii 

City 

ciudad 

negri 

longsod 

ilis 

Clean  (to) 

limpiar 

mra-chuchi 

paghauan 

panagdalus 

Clean 

limpio 

chuchi 

mahanan 

soo-chi 

nadalus 

Clever 

diestro 

pandei 

pendei 

Coal 

carbon  de  piedra 

areng 

Coarse 

basto 

kasar 

mai  laag 

Coast 

costa 

darat 

Cock 

gallo 

ayam  jantan 

manuk  oomagok 

Cocoa-nut 

coco 

kalapa,  nior 

boo  tong 

Coffee 

cafe 

kawah 

Cold 

Mo 

sejuk 

matugnao 

ma  hig  goot 

nalamec 

Colic 

colica 

sanak-prut 

Come 

venir 

datang 

marikau 

Conduct 

conducir 

antar 

dalhin 

panangitulid 

Cook  (to) 

cocinar 

memasak 

boo  kal 

Copper 

cobrc 

tambaga 

tumbaga 

tumbaga  pula 

OF  LANGUAGES.                                                                  54g 

Satan  . 

Cagayan. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

itinapi 

tinapay 

tinapay 

mien  pau 

man  zyoo 

man  too 

magatta 

punitin 

ta  lau 

ya-boor' 

p'ha  har 

[batabat 

dibdid 

hiung 

moo-ne 

ka  sam 

maghap 

apau  onu  ina 

hatu 

na  lai 

mo-tsi  kitar 

it  koor 

vagui 

capatid 

hiung 

oho  a-ni 

a  a,  mat 

baca 

nuang 

baca 

tu 

0-008 

syo  66 

matenten 

manugui 

masonog 

shau 

yakf,  takf 

poor  poot  t'hoor 

taba 

niu  yah 

magattan 

bumili 

tan 

ka-oo 

sar 

altec 

binti 

kioh  nang 

tsoo-to  zoo-ne 

zyoon  ho 

wa-ta 

yoon  p'ho 

nauuag,  tavagau 

tawag 

kiau 

yob' 

poo  roor 

mag  teng 

calinauan 

fung  tsing 

yo-soo-si 

ko  yo 

bahan 

ougot 

hai  kioh 

sa-gi 

alisaga 

liau  tsau 

boo-yo-oo  zin 

too  moor 

kyangay 

hatir 

tiau 

hi-naf 

mer 

pusac 

pusa 

mau'rh 

ne-ko 

koi 

sagap 

tsoh 

to-ra-gur' 

tsam  oor 

talicala 

lien 

kfoo-sa-ri 

palit 

kai 

ka-war' 

pyon  har 

masupit 

shui  kang 

se-to 

mapunis 

mora 

kiii  ti 

ya-soo-ro 

ts'hyon  har 

cantap 

daya 

kwang  pien 

a-za-mookf 

so  kor 

dato 

tau  jin 

s'ya-oo-gfoon 

kwi  syoo 

mudek 

aro,  indong 

ying  'rh 

ko,  yfi  ya 

hai  a 

Chung  kwoh 

Ka-ra  tsi-na 

Tsin  na 

mamidi 

halal 

sinen 

e-rab 

kar  hir 

li 

ili 

bayaa 

clung 

ini-ya-ko 

syong 

putauseu 

mama  carenu 

paliir 

si  kau  tsing 

ki-yo-moor' 

ssi  soor 

manamoiuamo 

marenu 

malinis 

lung  kau  tsing 

i-sa-gi-yo-si 

tso  hor 

pantas 

ling  li 

ka-si-ko-si 

o  tsor  hyou 

mci  tan 

i-si-'zoom 

soor 

mataba 

macapal 

tsii 

a  ra-si 

koor  koor 

bay  bay 

hai  pin 

na-gi  sa 

moor  kit  ts'yo 

sasabuugau 

sasabungin 

ki  kung 

ui-wa-to-ri 

tiirk 

onioy 

niyog 

yedsz' 

ya-si 

kia  fi 

manamonamo 

maluinin 

mapagui 

lang 

soo-zoo-sikf 

so  noor 

saquit  tiyaii 

tiitung 

fookP  tsoo-oo 

kwak  i.-i  n 

may 

pangaling 

lai 

kT-tiir' 

or 

panguiangay 

rnaghatid 

hing  wei 

8!i-sid.s' 

hir 

loto 

clui 

uir' 

sar  moor 

tumbaga 

tung 

do-oo 

koo  li 

544 


VOCABULARY 


English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

Cough  (to) 

toser 

batok 

oo  boh 

Cover  (to) 

cubrir 

tutup 

tutup 

Cramp 

calambre 

ka  kras  an 

banhood 

Crooked 

corvo 

bengkok 

bing  kok 

Cry  (to) 

gritar 

tangis 

nagtangis 

Current 

corrieute 

arus 

soog 

Customary 

acostumbrado 

biasa 

biak  sah 

Cut  (to) 

cortar 

potong 

magpotol 

o-too  rung 

pananguped 

DAILY 

cotidiano 

s'ari  s'ari 

hadlaou  hadlaou 

Danger 

peligro 

bhaya 

Dark 

obscuro 

galap 

madoom 

Daughter 

hija 

anak  perampuan 

ane  nga  babai 

anak  babai 

anak  a  babai 

Day 

dia 

ini 

adlau 

hadlau 

million 

Day  (to-day) 

hoy 

ini  ari 

caron  adku 

hadlau 

ita 

Dead 

muerto 

mati 

patai 

miatainah 

masakit 

Deaf 

sordo 

tuli 

bi  soo 

Dear 

caro 

inahal 

mahal 

mahal,  mabal 

nangina 

Deceit 

engano 

daya 

oolah 

Deep 

hondo 

dalam 

maldoom 

Deer 

venado 

rusa 

oo-sah 

Demand  (to) 

demandar 

minta 

Desire  (to) 

desear 

andak 

pag  panchinaot 

mabayah 

panangessem 

Detain 

detener 

menahan 

Devil 

diablo 

shetan 

Die 

morir 

mati 

patay 

matei 

ipapatay 

Different 

diferente 

lain 

Difficult 

dificultad 

sukar 

masusah 

Dig 

cavar 

gali 

mag  ka  loot 

Dirty 

sucio 

chumar 

mahugao 

naraguit 

Disperse 

esparcir 

cherrei  berrei  kan 

f  loo  ma  ang 
\boo  tas  sar 

Dive 

bucear 

scllam 

loo  moo  doop 

Divide 

dividir 

cherrei 

magbaghi 

Do 

hacer 

buat 

Doctor 

doctor 

dukun 

Dog 

perro 

anjing 

iru 

idu 

aso 

Door 

puerta 

pintu 

la  wang 

Dream  (to) 

sonar 

ber  mimpi 

tagai  noop 

Drink  (to) 

beber 

mTniiirt 

mag  inum 

mi  noom 

iyi  num 

Drown 

ahogar 

tinggalam 

maloo  nood 

Drum 

tambor 

gandarang 

Drunk 

borracho 

mabak 

nahiliik 

Dry 

scco 

kriug 

mainala 

matahai 

namaga 

OF  LANGUAGES.                                                                 54 

Bat  an. 

Cog  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

mangau 

obo 

Iiui  sau 

si-wa-mookf' 

taquip 

o-yuf 

kai  tsi 

ngimi 

chau  kin  ching 

ko-moo-ra 

mabacut 

buloctot 

kin  ti 

tsoo-boo-sa-ni 

koo  poor 

altec,  mililiac 

binti 

kioh  nang 

nakf 

oor 

riess 

agos 

ogali 

kwei  ku 

foo-oo-sokf 

magappo 

putfilin 

koh 

war',  kir' 

sa  kir 

toiling  arao 

mei  ji 

fi  go-to 

panganib 

kwaii  he 

aya-oo-si 

006  ts'hai 

masarri 

cariliman 

he 

ya-mi 

myong  myong 

ana  nga  babai 

anagna  babai 

nu'rh 

moos'-rae 

nya  sik 

arao 

aggao 

arao 

yiji 

fi 

nar  ir 

arao 

sangao 

arao 

yiji 

ke  foo 

koom  ir 

nadimau 

natai 

patay 

twan  ki 

si  ni 

tsook  oor 

bingi 

lung 

tsoon-bo-o 

kooi  mok  oor 

mafuina 

mahal 

kwei 

ta-ka-ki-ne 

kooi  har 

rp 

daya 

cha  wei 

mo-ro-i 

so  kir 

malalim 

shin 

foo-ka  si 

kip  hor 

libay 

lu 

si-ka 

sa  s;i  HI 

macdas 

otos 

sin  wan 

oot-tor' 

kar 

queluyan 

umibig  ? 

yuen 

hos-soo 

won  bar 

harang 

liu 

to-do-mar 

mo  mSor 

kwei 

o-ni 

kooi  sin 

madiman 

natay 

matay 

tsu  mu 

si-noor 

tsook  oor 

matarec 

yba 

pu  tung 

ko-to-nar 

tu  roor 

casadit 

linag 

nan 

ka-ta-si 

o  ryo  or 

dolang 

kiue 

hor' 

p'hiiir 

marapin 

marumi 

wu  wei 

ke-ga-re 

to  ro  oor 

bambal 

fausan 

tsir',  firro-moor 

koot  roor 

mei  shui 

mids'ner' 

moo  tsu  mi 

pacanighen 
mamarin 

sambal 
gaua 

fan 

tso 

wa-kar' 
has',  sur' 

podn  kun 
har 

mangagamot 

i  sang 

i  si-ya 

wi  won 

chito 

quito 

aso 

kiucn 

i-uoo,  in' 

kai 

oancb 

pinto 

man 

to,  kado 

moon 

panaguinip 

mung 

yu-me-mir 

skooin 

• 

noin 

ma  sir 

mniiium 

umimuin 

ynum 

bijrti 

yin 
ni  87.' 

o-bor 

spa  tsir 

tadibang 
mabooc 
rn;ib  koh 

inamnga 

"  O 

calacalatongan 
mahalangohin 
tuyo 

ku 
yin  tsui  Him 
kan 

tsoo-tsoo-mi 
yef  c-i 
ka-wu-ki 

pook 
ts'hyooi  h»r 
ma  rf>r 

VOL  II. 

546                                                                     VOCABULARY 

English. 

Spanish. 

Maldy. 

Bisayan, 

Sooloo. 

Ihco. 

Duck 

pato 

itjk 

itik 

Dumb 

mudo 

bisu 

oomaoo 

Dysentery 

discnteria 

chirit  lindir 

io  oos  it 

EACH 

cada  uno 

sa  satu 

ambook 

Ear 

oreja 

telinga 

taingah 

Early 

madrugada 

piigi  ari 

mahinaat 

Earth 

tierra 

buini,  tanah 

leopah 

Earthquake 

temblor  de  tierra 

gumpah 

gumpah 

Easy 

facil 

mudah-mudah 

batah 

East 

oriente 

timor 

timor 

Eat 

comer 

makan 

magcaon 

ka-ma-oon 

panuangen 

Egg 

huevo 

telur 

itlog 

icloog 

itlog 

Embark 

embarcar 

naik  prau 

sumahat  pa  kapal 

Enemy 

enemigo 

satru 

Enough 

bastante 

sedang 

igona 

ganap 

ison 

Enter 

entrar 

misuk 

simaud 

Equal 

igual 

tara,  sama 

salidah 

Evening 

tarde 

patang 

ha  poon 

Every                    cada 

segala 

ka  taan 

Excellent               excelente 

elok 

matahom  caayo 

majantih 

nasayaat  unay 

Exchange  (to)       cambiar 

tukar,  ganti 

ganti 

Excuse  (to)           excusar 

meng-ampiin 

Explain 

explanar 

uiata-kan 

matampalnah 

Eye 

ojo 

mata 

mata 

FACE 

cara 

muka                                                 bayhoo 

Fall  (to) 

caer 

jatuh 

mag  hulog             ma  ho  loog            parmac  uag 

False 

mentiro 

bohoug 

badak 

ing  iit                    ulbud 

Far 

lejos 

jauh 

halayo 

mai  oo                   adayo 

Fast 

veloz 

lakas 

ma  cha  pat 

Fat 

gordo 

gumuk 

matambuk 

Father 

padre 

ba  pa 

amahan 

ama                       ama 

Fear 

miedo 

takut 

asing 

bugah                  i  buteng 

Fear  (to) 

temer 

takut 

magtahap 

mabugah               panagbuteng 

Female 

hoinbra 

betina 

babai 

Fever 

calentura 

dummam  paua.' 

hiiig  laou 

Few 

poco 

sedlkit 

tio  tio 

Fill 

llenar 

isi 

hi  poon 

Finger 

dedo 

jari 

goo  la  mai 

Finished 

concluyo 

abis 

natapus 

depassnah 

tepassec 

Fire 

fuego 

api 

kayu 

Fire  (to  light) 

encender 

angus 

lagar 

OF  LANGUAGES. 


547 


Cay  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

ytic 

yah 

a-fir' 

ori 

i 

pipi 

ya  pa 

o  si 

pong  6  ri 

li  ching 

ha  ra  ga 

syor  sya 

kak 

o-no 

kak 

tayinga 

'rh 

mi-mi 

kooi 

paaga 

tsau 

ha-ya-si 

ir  oor 

lupa 

ti 

tsoo-tsi,  tsi 

tta-ti 

lindol 

ti  chin 

dsi  sin,  nai 

ti  tsiii 

ualan  linag 

i,  punan 

ta-ya-soo-ki 

sooi  or 

silangan 

tung 

fi-ga-si 

tong  nyok 

cuman 

cumain 

shi 

s'yokf 

mok  oor 

iluk 

itlog 

tan 

ta-ma-go 

ax 

sacay 

hi  chuen 

caauay 

chan  ti 

ka-ta-ki 

tai  tyok 

mapia  ngana 

siya 

tsu 

tar',  mit  tar' 

tsyok  bar 

pasoc 

tsin 

ir',  ma-ir' 

toor 

para 

siang  tang 

ta-i-ra-ka 

p'hyong  har 

hapon 

wan  shang 

yo-i 

na  tso 

toui 

koh 

fito  ko-to 

mai  yang 

curuga  macasta 

mainam 

kia  niiaii 

ka-na-si,  yo-si 

a  lam  ta  or 

palit 

kiau  hwan 

ka-yur' 

sa  p'hir 

angao 

shu 

na-dam' 

tsyop  oor 

say  say 

kiai 

tokf' 

tsoo  nair 

mata 

yen 

mey 

noon 

raucha 

mien 

o  mo  te                   n&t 

manafu 

mahulug 

hia 

o-tsoor' 

tsir 

siri 

cabal  aauang 

kia 

its-wa  ri 

ko  tsoot 

arayu 

malayo 

yuen 

to-ho-si 

mdr 

talar 

kwai 

ha-ya-si 

kwai  kwai 

mataba 

fi 

ko-her 

sar  tsir 

yama 

ama 

ft 

tsi  -tsi 

a  pi 

takot 

kii 

o-so-roo 

nor  nar 

paganasin 

matakut 

pa 

o-so-roor' 

babayi 

nii 

o-na-go 

key  tsip 

lagnai 

iVi  h  sb.au 

nets'  be-oo 

kuk  tsir 

y  ilan 

»hiiu 

soo-ko-si 

tsyo  koor 

pono 

mwan 

mi-t»oor' 

ts'har 

shau  chi 

yu-bi 

son  kii  rak 

balinaun 

tapus                      liau  shaii 

mat-ta-si 

niii  ts'liiiiu 

apuy                      ho 

fi,  hi 

poor 

ningas                    ho                           hi-tak                   j  p<«>r  (M  timr 

2  0  2 

548 


VOCABULARY 


En  ff  lit  A. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

First 

primero 

pertama 

kaisab 

Fish 

pcscado 

Ikan 

isda 

istah 

ikan 

Hag 

bandera 

tunggal 

Flame 

lltuna 

niilla 

ki  mi  glap 

Flesh 

carne 

daging 

oo-nood 

Flour 

harina 

tepong 

tapong 

Fog 

niebla 

kabut 

gaboou 

Foolish 

tonto 

bodoh,  gfla 

gila 

oo-maon 

nanengneng 

Foot 

pie 

si  ki 

Fowl 

gallina 

ayam 

monga 

manook 

pamusian 

Friend 

amigo 

sohbat 

abian 

bagai  bagai 

gaigem 

Fruit 

fruta 

bftah 

bongah 

Fuel  (wood) 

madera 

kayu  api 

dungool  kayu 

Full 

lleno 

punnuh 

hi  poh 

GALE 

tempestad 

ribut,  tufan 

hoo  noos,  bajoo 

Garden 

jardin 

taman 

tanaman 

kabun 

camnyungan 

Gay 

alegre 

suka-chita 

hillaco 

nacuticuti 

Gently 

mansamente 

perlahan 

Girl 

mucbacha 

anak  perampuan 

anak  babai 

Give 

dar 

kasih,  bri 

mag  hatag 

du  mihil,  kasik 

pannaugted 

Glass 

vidrio 

kacha 

kachah 

Go 

andar 

pergi 

iig  kau,  ranow 

Goat 

cabra 

kambing 

kambing 

God 

Dios 

Allah 

Dios 

Allah 

Dios 

Gold 

oro 

mas,  amas 

bnlauan 

amas 

balitoc 

Good 

bueno 

baik 

masayo 

mariaou 

nalaing 

day 

buenos  dias 

salamat  pagi 

ma  ayon  adlau 

naimbag  a  adlai 

•  1  1 

i 

tabe 

Arabic 

„     w«lin» 

nociica 
tardes 

evening 
Goose 

ganso 

gangsa 

angsa 

Governor 

gobernador 

pemarentah 

Grave 

sepultura 

knbbur 

Great 

grande 

besar 

daco 

dacola 

dacquel 

Green 

verde 

ijan 

malimbau 

verde 

Grief 

lastima 

duka 

kasusahan  hati 

Groin 

ingle 

konchi  pauh 

Guilty 

culpado 

salah 

sa  ah 

Gun 

escopeta 

snapang 

sinapaug 

Gun  (large) 

pieza  de  artilleria 

mariam 

' 

HAIK 
Half 


pelo 
mitad 


rambut 
tangah 


hilabipan 


bo  book 


napalalo 


OF  LANGUAGES. 


549 


Batan. 

Cog  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

asa 

mang 

sa-i-si-yo 

tsyong 

union 

sira 

isda 

yii 

oo-wo 

k5ki 

ki 

ka-ta 

kwi 

caninas 

ho  yen 

ho-no-woo 

kokor 

paa 

jau 

nikf' 

kSM 

fan 

ko-moo-gi  no  ko 

kook  syoo 

casa  rian 

yen  wu 

ka-zoo-mi 

an  kai 

di  asulib 

ulapa 

manmang 

tai  chi 

o-ra-ka 

o  rir 

cocor 

kioh 

a  si 

par 

upa 

flupa 

manuc 

ki  lui 

ni-wa-to-ri 

tark 

cqjun 

caibigan 

pang  yii 

to-mo  da-tsi 

poong  oo 

asi  na  cayu 

bunga 

kwu  tsz' 

kfoo-da-mo-no 

kwa  sir 

oo  rin 

chai 

ta-ki-gi 

sum 

mapno 

mwan 

mita'  a-ki 

ts'har 

anjin 

bagyo 

kwang  fung 

ha-ya-te 

p'ho  phoong 

camuhamuhaan 

camulan 

halamaiian 

yuen  pu 

ha-ta-ke 

tong  s:\ii 

racug 

maratan 

daquila 

ta 

ta-no-si-moo 

yuu  pok 

louay 

man  man  ti 

ya-wa-ra-ka 

yong 

mudeg  mabaques 

batang  lalaqui 

yu  nil 

o-na-go 

key  tsip 

languiana 

biguian 

ki 

a-taf 

ta  m8r 

paganinum 

bobog 

po  li 

ha-ri 

tyoo  li 

Makalu,  angayau 

lacar 

hing 

yukf  ' 

kar 

caddin 

cambing 

shan  yang 

ya-gi 

yang 

Dios 

Dios 

Shang  ti 

Ka-mi 

bajasan 

bulanan 

guinto 

kin 

kd-gii-ne,  kiu 

sol 

mapia 

mapia 

mabuti,  y  gui 

hlu 

yo-ki,  yo-si 

tsyS  ho6r 

mapia  nga  unma 

inagaudang  arao 

magandang  gabi 

apon 
ytic 

'ngo 

ga 

ke  yoo 

manjoh  ko  yokol 

tsung  tu 

boogi-ya-oo 

libing,  baon 

twan  yen 

tsoo  ka 

mou  torn 

racug 

dacab 

malaque 

ta 

o-bo-i 

k'houn 

maghah  buluin 

fuccao 

hilao 

lu 

ini-do-ri 

p'ha  roor 

bambayu 

sayang 

yii  mun 

outs'-  ki 

koon  sim  ou 

pani 

singit 

tui  chc  fung 

sala 

yii  tsui 

tsoo-to-me 

ho  moor 

nii'iu  tsiang 

tct-po  oo 

tyo  U'liyung 

chung  pan 

tc:p-po-oo 

buoc 

ka,  oualla 


nctalugarin 


bohor 
calahnti 


fah 
pivhn 


ka-ini,  jr 
na  ka  rn 


t'ho  n>k 
piin 


550                                                                     VOCABULARY 

English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloro. 

Hand 

mano 

tangan 

limah 

Handkerchief 

pauuello 

sapu  tangan 

sapu  limah 

Hard 

duro 

kras 

matugas 

Hat 

somhrero 

chipiau 

topi 

Hatchet 

destral 

kapak 

kapak 

Have 

liaber 

ada 

a-oon 

He,  she,  it 

el,  ella,  ello 

diya 

siya,  kania 

Head 

cabeza 

kapala 

60 

Hear 

oir 

dangar 

mag  doongug 

doong  oog 

pauangdengugeg 

Heart 

corazon 

jantong 

ha  tai 

Heat 

calor 

ka-pauas-an 

ma  pas  sdoh 

Heaven 

cielo 

surga,  langit 

langit 

shurga 

languit 

Heavy 

pesado 

brat 

mabugat 

mabugat 

nadagsen 

Hell 

infierno 

marka 

naraka 

Help  (to) 

ayutar 

tolong 

tolong 

Here 

aqui 

de  sini 

dinhi 

dii 

ditoy 

High 

alto 

tinggi 

mataas 

Hog 

puerco 

babi 

babui 

Hold 

tener 

pegang 

doua 

caadda 

Hope  (to) 

esperar 

meugharap 

mag-hnlat 

tagad 

panagnray 

Horse 

caballo 

kuda 

cabayu 

kudah 

cabayo 

Hot 

caliente 

panas 

mapassooh 

Hour 

hora 

satn  diam 

usaca  horas 

maisa  nga  horas 

House 

casa 

rumah 

balay 

bah  i 

balay 

How  much 

quanto 

brapa 

pila 

Hunger 

hambre 

lapar 

liap 

Hungry 

tengo  gana 

saya  lapar 

na  ibigan  co 

hiapdi 

ada  ganasoo 

Hurt 

danado 

rugi 

Husband 

marido 

laki 

banah 

I 

yo 

aku 

aku,  ipoon 

If 

si 

kalau 

bang 

Ignorant 

ignorante 

babal 

dupang 

Impudent 

atrevido 

korang  bijak 

J  bukundah 

Inferior 

inferior 

korang 

\     mariaou 

Infirm,  ill 

enfermo 

lemah 

masakit 

sakit 

masakit 

Inform 

avisar 

bri  tan 

naponongan 

Inherit 

heredar 

ber  pusaka 

nabakuk  pusaka 

Ink 

tinta 

dawat 

da  wat 

Innocent 

inocente 

suchi 

, 

asoh  masar 

Inquire 

inquirir 

preksa 

a  soo  boo 

Instruct,  show 

euscnar 

ineng  ajar 

mangh  haudu 

Internal 

interno 

iaug  de  dalam 

ing  malaoom 

OF  LANGUAGES. 


551 


Caff  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

camay 

shau 

te 

son 

pamabir 

shau  kin 

te  ki-noo 

tigas 

kien 

ka-ta-si 

koot  ser 

sailing 

kwan 

kaf  -ri 

kwan 

palakol 

fu 

yo-ki 

to  ts'hai 

may,  mey 

yu 

ar'  roo 

isir 

yea 

ta 

kare 

tsyo 

olo 

tau 

a-ta-ma 

ma  ri 

pagguina 

maquinig 

ting 

kikf 

toor  nir 

pozo 

sin 

sin  no  za-oo 

nyom  t'hong 

ban  as 

hiuen 

as-si 

to  oor 

langui 

langit 

tien 

ten 

ha  nar' 

maramo 

mabigat 

chung 

o-mo-si 

moo  ko  or 

ti  yob 

tsi  kokf  ' 

tolong 

pang 

ta-sookf  ' 

to  or 

toye 

dito,  dini 

che  li 

ko-ko-ni 

tiias 

kau 

ta-ka-si 

no  p'hoSr 

babuy 

chu 

ir  no  ko 

tots  tsey 

quegga 

magcaroon 

na  ting 

ni-gir'                   ka  tsir 

maguiddac 

maguintay 

wang 

no-zom 

pa  riir 

caballo 

yi  pi  ma 

'ma,  moo-ma 

mar 

je 

as-si,  nets' 

to  oor 

tadday  nga  bora 

sbi  shin 

to-ki,  si 

stiii  si 

balay 

balay 

yi  kien  yu 

i-e,  i-he 

tsip  ka 

magcauo 

job  kan 

so-ko-ba                kwi  ha 

gotom 

tu  ngo 

fi-da-roo-si 

tsod  rir 

egga  y  ayacu 

aku  mai  gotom 

tu  mui 

oo-ye 

tsoo  rir 

panganganyaya 

shang 

a-ta-ni 

hai  bar 

asauab 

fft 

ot-to 

tsi  a  pi 

aco 

wo,  yu 

wa-rc,  wa-ga 

na 

cun 

job 

mo-si 

man  ir 

cadi  carununpan 

pu  chi 

foo-zits' 

mapangahas 

wu  ki  tun 

hia  tang 

mataki 

saquit 

ngan 

yo-wa-si 

yak  liar 

gdar 

tung  chi 

tsoo-gfoor' 

ho  liar 

mana 

wci  nie 

tsoogf  ' 

ni  oor 

tinta 

me 

sooin' 

syoo  inoi<k 

ualan  sal  a 

nui 

tsoo-mi 

siyasip 

aha  wan 

',  to-oo 

m(V)  roor 

aral 

kiau 

o-si-gur 

l»>  ir 

loob 

nu'i 

oo-tsi-taoo-ra 

552                                                                     VOCABULARY 

English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Interpreter 

iuterprete 

jiiro  bhasa 

gool  bhasilh 

Iron 

fierro 

besi 

basi 

Island 

isla 

pulo 

joo 

Itch 

sarna 

kudis 

ka  kaas  koo  rit 

JAPAN 

Japon 

Japun 

Jealous 

zeloso 

chumburu  an 

chumbuhan 

Joy 

gozo 

ka  suka  an 

ka  suka  an 

Judge 

juez 

hakim 

Judgment 

juicio 

hukum 

Just 

justo 

betul 

adU 

KEEP  (see  Hold) 

tener 

Kettle  (copper) 

caldera 

kwali 

kawali 

Key 

llave 

anak  konchi 

koot  chuk 

Kidney 

rinon 

buah  piuggang 

pamas  tioon 

Kill 

matar 

bunoh 

pation 

bunoh 

Kind 

benigno 

kasihan  ati 

kai  laou 

King 

Key 

baginda,  raja 

Knee 

podilla 

lutut 

too  hood 

Knife 

cuchillo 

pisan 

la  riug 

Know 

saber 

tahu,  tau 

mag  hibalo 

maing  gnot 

LAKE 

laguna 

danau 

lanaou 

Land 

tierra 

tanah 

lupah 

Large 

grande 

besar 

daco 

dacola 

Last 

ultimo 

iang  akhir 

ka  hapoan 

Laugh  (to) 

reir 

tertawa 

mag  catava 

nagka  tawah 

Lazy 

tardo 

segan,  malas 

oo  ska  wan 

Lead 

plomo 

timah  etam 

tingah  itooni 

Leak  (to) 

hacer  agua 

bochor 

boosloot 

Learn 

aprender 

ajar 

magtoon 

hin-du 

Leave 

dexar 

tinggal 

tinggal 

Left 

izquierdo 

Hri 

ooah 

Leg 

pierna 

betis,  kaki 

bilis 

(malang  ba 

Leprosy 

lepra 

kudal 

loompat, 

bulit  manook 

Less 

menos 

korang  deri-pada 

korang 

Letter 

carta 

siirat  kiriman-an 

sulat 

Lie 

mentira 

bohong 

bakak 

pooting 

Lie  (down) 

descansar 

baring 

kolungan 

I  loco. 


panima  patay 
panangamano 

naouticuti 
panag  catas 

panagsnrsuro 


ulbud 


OP  LANGUAGES. 


553 


Satan. 


mamapatay 
pasan  nama 

maratan 
jumalo 

maguiguiamn 


VOL  II. 


Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

!        Korean. 

dolo  basa 

fan  yi  wan 

tsoo  oo  zi 

t'hong  sa 

bacal 

tie 

tets' 

801 

polo 

chau 

si-ma 

syom  to 

galis 

kan  lai 

ka-yu-si 

ka  vyo  8r 

Jipan  kwoh 

Nip-pon 

or  pon 

mapangiboghoin 

tsi  tu 

ne-ta-mi 

roo  kwi 

logor,  toua 

hi  kwan 

yo-ro-ko-bi 

kitkoor 

hocom 

hing  ming 

a-ze-si 

hocom 

ko-to-ha-ri 

sar  p'hir 

banal 

kung  Ian 

i-sa-gi-yokf* 

kong  tsyong 

sliui  hu 

ya-kf'wan 

tan  tsa 

solot 

so  shi 

zi-yo-o 

swai  tsa 

bato 

mil  shin 

moo-ra-to 

k'houg  p'hns 

patay 

shah 

oots',  ko-ros' 

tsok  ir 

maalam 

wan  ho  ti 

na-sa-ke 

hari 

wang 

o  ho  ki-mi 

nlm  koom 

tohor 

si 

fi-za 

moo  roop 

sundang 

yi  pa  tan 

ka-ta-na 

k'har 

alam 

chi 

sir',  mo-no,  sir* 

ar 

dagat 

liu 

raids'  -oo-mi 

k,:i  ram 

lupa 

li,  tien 

rikf  '  tsi 

t.ta 

picaro  soail 

ta 

pi-ro-i 

t'hoop 

huli 

mob. 

sa-i  go 

k5 

termaua 

siau 

foo-ra-oo 

oo  oom 

hull 

Ian  to 

o-ka-ta-ri 

ki  5  roSr 

tinga 

yuen 

na-ma-ri 

rayon 

lau 

sair 

aral 

hioh 

ma-na-b' 

pai  hor 

talauas 

li 

ha-nar' 

li  pyor 

calina 

tso 

fi-da-ri 

oir 

paa 

kioh 

ma  ta 

ta  ri 

hila 

ma  fung 

kat-ta-i  ya-mai 

lyong  pyong 

colang 

kang  siau 

yo-ri  soo-ko-si 

tor 

sulat 

shu  sin 

tc-ga'ini 

8yo  kfm 

cahulaanan 

shwoh  hwang 

its'  -war',  oo-po 

ko  t*"M>t 

hinga 

ngo  tau 

nc-moor' 

noo  oor 

2  p 

{)54                                                                    VOCABULARY 

English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

Life 

vida 

niiiwa 

Light 

luz 

trang 

sagaa 

masawah 

silao 

Light  (to) 

ligero 

ringan 

magaan 

maguan 

nadaras 

Like 

semejante 

sama 

sali 

Lime 

cal 

kapur 

bang  kit 

Lip 

labio 

bibir 

igad,  simood 

Listen 

escuchar 

intei 

mag  silip 

panang  sirip 

Little 

pequeno 

kechil 

kichi,  tiu  tin 

Little  (quantity) 

poco 

sedikit 

dictai 

tiu  tiu 

bassit 

Live 

vivo 

ber-idup 

boohi 

Liver 

higado 

limpa 

bagu 

Lock 

cerraja 

kunchi 

kan-ching 

Long 

largo 

panjang 

matahas 

Look  (to) 

mirar 

Hat 

mirar 

kitah 

mirar 

Lose 

perder 

Hang 

maguala 

na  poo  as 

panna  ca  oan 

Lost 

perdida 

luchut 

nawah 

Love  (to) 

amar 

kasih 

ka  loong  an 

Low 

baxo 

rendah 

a  bah  bah 

Lungs 

pulmones 

pa-parau 

paru  paru 

Mad 

loco 

gila 

buang 

mag  kang  oog 

mauyong 

Make 

hacer 

biiat 

hi  nang 

Male 

macho 

jantan,  laki  laki 

oo-soog 

Man 

hombre 

orang 

lalaqui 

00  SOOg 

lalaqui 

Many  (much) 

mucho 

baniak 

paghan 

matahood 

adu 

times 

muchas  veces 

baniak  kali 

maka  daghan 

nanim  adu 

Mast 

arbol 

tiang 

Meat 

carne 

daging 

unut  dabas 

daging  sapi 

lasag 

Medicine 

medecina 

ubat 

ubat,  tuba 

Meet 

encontrar 

ber  temu 

magquita 

mak  baak 

panagsarac 

Mend 

componer 

balk  i 

maglutos 

tai  a  wah 

panangabil 

Mercury 

azoque 

ayer  perak 

tubig  pirak 

Merry 

alegre 

suka 

kioogan 

Middle 

medio 

tangah 

tengah 

Midnight 

media  noche 

tangah  malam 

tengah  duum 

Milk 

leche 

susu 

gatas 

gatas 

tubig  tisoso 

Mine  (my) 

mio 

aku-punia 

kaku 

Money 

dinero 

wang 

pilak 

Monkey 

mono 

karra 

a  mo 

Month 

mes 

bulan 

bulan 

Moon 

luna 

bulan 

bulan 

bulan 

bulan 

More 

mas 

lagi 

lagi,  dugang 

Morrow 

manana 

Isuk,  pagi 

ugma 

kin  soom 

bigat 

Mother 

madre 

:i  m  :i  .    i  I)N 

iuahan 

inah 

ina 

OF  LANGUAGES. 

Cagayan.                Tagala. 

Chinese 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

buhay 

ming 

i-no-tsi,  me-i 

mok  soom 

tulu 

ylao 

kwang 

fi-ka-ri 

pyot 

malapao 

malicsi 

king 

ka-roo-si 

ka  pai  ya  or 

camucha 

chung  i 

si-kau 

ka  t'har 

apog 

pe  kwui 

its  ba-i 

labi 

shin 

kfoo-tsi  bir 

ip  si  oor 

nagguiguina 

sumilip 

ta  ting 

kikf' 

too  roor 

munti 

soo-ko-si 

tsyo  koor 

bassi 

caunti 

si  au 

tsit-to 

tsa  mot 

buhay 

ku 

i-ki-te-or 

nar 

atay 

kan 

kan-no  za-oo 

kan 

solotau 

yi  pa  so 

ka-gi 

pai  mok 

mahaba 

chang 

na-ga-ki 

kin 

paca  singau           tingin 

kan 

mir' 

por 

nararal                  mauala 

shi 

oo-si-naf 

tsir 

pagcaiiala 

shi  lian 

ya  poor 

son  har 

palasinta 

ngai 

ai-soor 

sa  rang 

mababa 

hiii 

so-ko 

nil  tsar 

baga 

fi 

ha-i  no  za-oo 

poo  hwii 

ulapa 

olol 

tieu 

kfoo-roo-i 

mi  ts'  hir 

gaiia 

tzo  tso 

tsoo'-kfeor' 

ha  yo  kum 

balaqui 

nan 

o-to-ko 

lalaqui 

tauo 

Jin 

fi-to 

sa  ram 

aru 

maraini 

to 

o-si  o-ho-si 

iniiu  hoor 

naiiii  yam 

to  tsz' 

tot  tot 

poliagan 

tsiihig 

ho-ba-si-ra 

lot  tfu 

dumaga 

lanian 

jau 

nikf 

kn   kl 

gamot 

i  hioh 

kfoos'-ri 

yak 

netafuraii 

maquita 

yii 

af  ',  a  i-af  '» 

inn  tsoor 

payan 

paluin 

pii 

foo-sc-soor 

syoo  li 

shui  sing  fc 

tuids'  ka  nc 

syoi)  oon 

malobogdin 

hin  jcn 

ta-no-si-mi 

k'hwfii  har 

calabatian 

chung 

ka  on  kili 

pwaii  ye 

yo-na-ka 

gatto 

galas 

j'' 

ni-yu 

t'ha  lak 

ko 

wo  ti  kwi\ug  to 

wa-ta 

nii 

pilac 

tsien 

ka  nc 

ton 

amo 

ma  Ian 

tna-si-ra 

t.-ain  nap  I 

bouun 

yi  yuo 

ts'ki 

(Jir  wor 

fulan 

buan 

yue 

ts'ki 

tfir  wor 

lalo 

to  sii: 

sa  ra  ni 

la  M 

rionuina 

bucas 

ining  tiuu 

a-kf(x>r-fi 

myoug  ir 

ycna 

ynn 

IIIU 

fa-iu 

(1   Illl 

•1  P  '> 

555 


556 


VOCABULARY 


English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

Mountain 

montana 

gunong,  bukit 

buguid 

bood  bood 

bantai 

Mouth 

boca 

mulat 

si  mood 

„*  /  -  , 

boca  del  no 

kwala 

Move 

mover 

garak 

mag  ka  hi  bal 

Much 

mncho 

(vide  many) 

Mud 

lodo 

lumpur 

156  moot,  pi  saak 

Murder  (to) 

asesinar 

bunoh 

Music 

musica 

bunyi 

t 

NAKED 

desnudo 

talanjang 

hooboh 

Name 

nombre 

nfima 

nama 

Navel 

ombligo 

pusat 

pusood 

Near 

cerca 

dekat 

hadool 

masu  oog 

asideg 

Neat 

lindo 

brisih 

ma  jan  tae 

Necessary 

es  preciso 

hams 

gina  hanglan 

harus 

pannacay  payn 

Neck 

cuello 

leher 

li  oog 

Never 

nnnca 

tidak  sekali 

dile  na  ngamas 

f  oolan  ma  sam- 
\     purna 

saanpay 

New 

nuevo 

bharu 

bagai 

Next 

proximo 

iang  dekat 

dugain 

Night 

noche 

malam 

gabe 

du  oom 

rabiy 

No 

no 

tidak,  tidah 

dfli 

hubolo,  oalah 

saan 

Noble 

noble 

ber  bangsa 

berbangsa 

Noise 

ruido 

bunyi 

None 

ningun 

tiada 

ooalah 

Noon 

medio  dia 

tangah  ari 

oogtoo  sugu 

North 

norte 

utara 

utara 

Nose 

nariz 

Idong 

hiloong 

Not 

no 

tidak 

ooalah 

Now 

ahora 

sekarang 

biya  ha  ya  oon 

OAB 

remo 

dayong 

Obey 

obedecer 

turut 

maagaad 

Of 

de 

puuia 

deripada 

Offended 

ofendido 

sakit  ati 

Officer 

oficial 

pangulu 

Often 

muchas  veces 

ter-kadang 

Oil 

azeite 

miniak 

la-nah 

Old 

viego 

tuah 

tigulang 

mahaas 

lakai 

Only 

solamente 

saja 

usra 

mey  meysa 

Open  (to) 

abrir 

mem  buka 

umukab 



abierto 

buka 

na  ookab 

Opium 

opio 

afyum,  madat 

matad,  afyun 

557 


Satan. 

Cog  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chine 

ujar  a  makarran 

amague 

bondok 

shan 

ngoso 

bibig 

kau 

vaua 

golapay 

tsien 

racug 

marimi 

hota 

losac 

ni 

patay 

yoh 

binitaghut 

hobo 

chi  shin 

ngaran 

ngalan 

ming 

posed 

posor 

tsi 

arani 

malapit 

kin 

mapagoi 

tsi  ching 

meyanung 

saukap 

shi  kang 

lagao 

liig 

king 

araba  pandaan 

aripaga  nesima 

cailauman 

tsung  wu 

bujo 

bago 

sin 

caponatauo 

toz' 

ghaghet 

sabi 

gaby 

ye 

uugah 

an 

yndi,  dili 

pu  shi 

payna  guen 

mahal 

tsun 

ingay 

shing 

araba 

ysaman 

mu  yii 

nakatayatoh 

tanghali 

chau 

ydaur 

hilaga 

re 

mamundan 

ylong 

Pi 

ungah 

dili 

pu 

ngayon 

mu  hia 

gayong 

tsiang 

sonor 

tsun  i 

ni 

chi 

sala 

kwai 

mangagana 

kwan 

ma  pirua 

maralas 

to  tsz' 

ha  nein 

langis 

yii 

malqucn 

lakalaki 

matanda 

kiu 

laman 

maquisa 

chc 

tuangan 

icang 

kai 

icang 

ya  pica 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

da-ke 

mois  moo  G 

kfoo-tsi 

ip  koo 

oo-gokf  ' 
o-okf-ni 

66m  tsook 

do-ro 

tsoon  hark 

oots'  ko-ros 

tsook  ir 

p'hong  byoo 

ha-da-ka 

mer 

na 

ir  horn 

he-so 
tsi-ka-si-ni 

pal  sk^p 
kat  ka 

a-ta-ka-mo 
ka-na-me 

pin  pin 

mo  ni  mi 

kfoo-bi 

niuk 

tsoo-ini 

op  sar 

a-ta-ra-si 

sai 

to.na-ri 

po  koom 

yor' 
i-ya 
ki 

pam  ya 
mot  bar 
kooi  kar 

soot  too  6  rir 

na-i 

op  sar 

map-pir 
ki-ta 
ha-na 

pook  pyok 
k'ho 

na-i 
ima 

op  sor 
tsook  koom 

ka-i 

no 

o-sa-moor 
no 

syoon  har 
kar 

tsoo-ka-sa 

pom  hur 
kwuu  won 

ma-i-da 

tot  tot 

ab'-ra 

ki  room 

o-i-tar' 

t<~: 

ba-ka-ri 

..  t-'ik 

fi-rakf 

yor 

akcr' 

558 


VOCABULARY 


English. 

Spanish. 

Malay, 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

Or 

0 

atau 

a  tau  ah 

Orange 

naranja 

iiiiKiu  manis 

suoh  i  iiiiin  ili 

Order  (to) 

niainlar 

suruh 

inagsugo 

da  ak 

panagbaou 

Other 

otro 

lain 

ang  usa 

dugain 

sabali 

Our 

nuestro 

k  it  a  pun  ia 

ka  too 

Outside 

afuera 

de  luar 

ha  goah 

Over 

sobre 

atas 

t  a  as 

Owe 

deber 

her  utang 

mang  hootang 

PADDY 

arroz 

Midi 

ail  as  maputi 

palay 

Pain 

dolor 

pedih 

sakit 

nasaquit 

Paper 

papel 

kartas 

papel 

curias 

papel 

Past 

pasado 

:clah  laid 

:abai 

Passionate 

apasionado 

angat 

boong  iss 

Pay  (to) 

pagar 

timbang 

baag  bayad 

Pearl 

perla 

mutiara 

moot  chah 

People 

gente 

orang 

oosoog 

Pepper 

pimienta 

lada 

pamienta 

lada 

pimienta 

Perhaps 

quizas 

barangkali 

mao  caha 

kalu  kalu 

ngata 

Physic 

medecina 

ubat 

tuba  tuba 

tuba  tuba 

Physician 

medico 

dukum 

Kg 

puerco 

babi  kechil 

babui 

babui 

babui 

Pirate 

pirata 

orang  pumpak 

rompak 

Place 

sitio 

tampat 

samay 

lugar 

Plantain 

platano 

pisang 

sagiii,  saing 

Plenty 

copia 

haniak 

mataoud 

Pox,  chicken 

viruelas  locas 

small 

viruela 

pali  pankoot 

Poison 

venemo 

rachun 

choonah 

Poisonous 

venenoso 

berbesa 

berbisa 

Pole 

palo 

satang 

Polite 

cortes 

supan 

maingat  adat 

Poor 

pobre 

meskin 

macalaloog 

miskin 

napauglao 

Poultry 

gallineria 

ayam  ilik 

manook 

manook 

manuc 

Pregnant 

prenado 

bunting 

boo  roos 

Present  (a) 

regalo 

bing  Ms 

hatag 

regalo 

Pretty 

hermoso 

bagus 

matahom 

bagus 

nasayaat 

Prevent 

prevenir 

menagah 

lo  angah 

Price 

precio 

arga 

bili 

Promise  (to) 

prometer 

janji 

janjii 

Proper 

proprio 

patut 

patut 

Pulse 

pulso 

nadi 

gakk 

Punish 

castigar 

menyiksa 

hoo  koo  mah 

Purple 

purpnreo 

ungu 

ungu 

Put 

poner 

baboh,  taroh 

magbutan 

(  hood  hoodah, 

panangicabil 

\tawan 

OF  LANGUAGES.                                                                 0 

Satan. 

Caff  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

munuh 

cun 

kwoh 

ka 

hok 

ay 

lucban 

tien  tsang 

kfoo-nen-bo 

kyoor  kyoor 

padoc 

magutus 

ming 

se-sim 

poon  poo 

ek 

tadday 

y  ba 

pie 

ho-ka-no 

ta  roor 

amen 

ta 

wo  mun  ti 

wa-ta-kfs-to-mo- 

loual 

wai  tau 

ho-ka-ni         Cno 

pat 

y  babao 

kwo 

oo-ye-ni 

66s 

otang 

Men 

s'yakf  '  gin 

pit 

ay 

palay 

ho 

a-wa 

tso 

en 

taki 

saquit 

tang 

i  ta-moo 

ax  hoor 

calatas 

chi 

ka-mi 

tsyo  hwl 

lingpas 

kwo  li&u 

soo-ki-sar 

or  tsook 

icuyat 

masucaling  loob 

sing  ki  ti 

ha-na-da-da 

stoot 

ipagsa 

bayar 

kiau 

mookf  '-yu 

kii  p'hoor 

ran 

chin  chu 

sin  s'yn 

koo  sar 

a 

tauo 

min 

paik  syong 

sili 

paminto 

chuen  tsiiin 

ko  see-oo 

ho  ts'hyo 

numasimu 

tila 

hwoh  che 

hok 

ia  tuba 

gamot 

yoh 

kfoos'  ri 

yak 

manga  gamot 

i  sang 

kfoos'  si 

wT  won 

ghu  cnis 

babuy 

si&u  chii 

i-no-ko 

tot 

mamamangga 

bli  tse 

ka-i-sokf 

aguinan 

bayan 

chu 

kot 

uibueg 

saguing 

hislng  ya  tsiau 

o-ba-ko 

p'ha  ts'hyo 

cug 

hilab 

fung  shing 

na  oor 

shiii  pan 

mo-ga-sa  ? 

tol 

tau 

tSOO'SO-OO 

ts5  tsiii 

panulib 

lason 

tu,  chin 

dokf  nil 

lason 

tu  ti,  chin  tu 

dokf  ni 

ichor,  cayu 

cahny 

kan  toz' 

tsa-o 

sa  hwat  tiii 

maanianihiu 

yu  R  ti 

ley  igi 

15yt« 

macallalo 

mahirap 

pin 

maz-zi 

ka-niin  hiir 

anuc 

maiiuc 

ki  lui 

ni-wa.to-ri 

tark 

buntis 

yu  shin 

ha-ran-de-or 

pair 

alaou 

iniana  amasingan 

palay  ao 

li  wu 

okf  'ri  mo-iio 

tsyon  song 

macasta 

mariquit 

hilu  kftn 

ook-kfoo-si-i 

kd  or 

daucn 

handa 

Ian  tsi 

foo-segf 

Ian  ts'hyoor 

bill 

ki,\ 

kup 

'  pangaco 

ying  ching 

mats'-bar 

ho  hiir 

, 

bocor 

i 

mat  tang 

sanhi 

me 

tsi  Mm  dai 

ma  ik 

dusa 

kia  hing 

kc-i-bats 

tsoi  t«")6r 

pu  tsing 

moo-rn-sa-gi 

tsa  tsi 

panguipay              ilagny 

filng 

okf 

toor 

559 


500 


VOCABULARY 


English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

QUARREL  (to) 

contender 

ber  bantah 

nag  ka  loh 

Quarrelsome 

pendencioso 

lang  churi  chakit 

magbantah 

Queen 

reyna 

raja  perampuan 

raja  babai 

Quick 

presto 

chapat 

madali 

machapat 

uadaras 

Quit 

dexar 

tinggal 

mein 

RAIN 

lluvia 

ujan 

oo  Ian 

Bain  (to) 

llover 

ber  ujam 

mag  oo  Ian 

Raise 

levantar 

ang  kat 

Rank 

condicion 

panghat 

Rat 

pata 

tikus 

ambow  lupa 

Raw 

crudo 

mautah 

mung  ai  oh 

Ray 

rayo  de  luz 

sinar 

sinag  mata  sooga 

(lightning) 

rayo 

kilat 

linti 

kilat 

sa  lit 

Read 

leer 

bacha 

mag  basa 

bachaha 

panagbasa 

Ready 

pronto 

sedia 

sedia 

Red 

Colorado 

merah 

mapula 

poo  lah 

nalabaga 

Reject 

pehusar 

anggan 

tolakkan 

Remain 

restar 

tinggal 

Restore 

restituir 

perbalas 

Retire 

retirarse 

undur 

Return  (to) 

revenir 

kambali 

oo-i 

Rice 

arroz 

bras 

bugas 

bugas 

bu  gas 

Rich 

rico 

kaya 

sapisan 

kawasah 

masanicua 

Right 

justo 

betul 

henal 

Right 

derecho 

kanan 

Rise  (to) 

levantarse 

baugkil 

bang  oon 

River 

rio 

sungei 

soobah 

Road 

camino 

jala  ri 

dalan 

panow 

dalan 

Rob 

pobar 

rampas 

mag  canat 

lang  pas 

panagtacao 

Rock  (see  Stone) 

roca 

Root 

paiz 

akar 

gamut 

Rope 

cuerda 

tali 

Rotten 

podrido 

basuk 

loo  niott 

Round 

redondo 

bulat 

tibook 

Run  (to) 

correr 

lari 

mag  dalagan 

nah  gooi 

paiiagtaray 

SATE 

seguro 

salamat 

Sail 

vela 

layer 

layag 

laiar 

layag  asin 

Salt 

sal 

garam 

asin 

asm 

asin 

Same 

mismo 

sama 

salih 

Sand 

arena 

pasir 

kalang,  pasir 

Save 

salvar 

paliara 

OP  LANGUAGES. 


501 


Bat  an. 


I 

lapacaru 


mtiinuy 
mtimuy 
f  angay 

irran,  rakou 


i  puen  nu  adcy 

lavayat 

ipay  bidi 

i  mona 
lay  bangun 
maghen 

,  mot 
adeder 

dar 

VOL.  II. 


mabi 


talli 
mabibic 


maoaauaya 


dalan 
ratacao 


inapalagnn 


layak 
asin 


Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese 

Korean. 

talo 

tsang 

a-ra-sof 

ta  t'hor 

pagaanay 

bin  tsang  tan  ti 

foo-zi  tsi  ga  i 

ts'hyo  kir 

baring  babayi 

kwang  hau 

ki  sa  ki 

hwang  hod 

dali 

kwai 

ha  ya  si 

spa  rar 

habilin 

tui  tsz'  liau 

hanar 

li  pyor 

olan 

yii 

a-mc 

pi  65 

olan 

toh  yii 

a-me-foor 

taas 

ki 

ta-kakf  '-soor 

toor 

caalaman 

pin  ki 

kakf  '  si-ki 

ts'ha  rey 

daga 

shu 

nez'-mi 

tsooi 

bilao 

sang 

na  ma 

nar  kop 

linanag 

king  shie 

fi-na-ta 

pijot 

lintic 

tien 

i-na  tsoo-ma 

p5n  kai 

basa 

tu 

yom 

nir  koor 

sarya 

tsi  pi 

so  na  ye 

in  p'hyon 

pula 

hung 

a  ka-si 

poor  koor 

bocor 

ki  kii 

si  ri  sokf 

pa  rir 

lira 

chii  tsai 

to-do-mar,  or' 

mo  moor 

saoli 

fu  hing 

ka-yes' 

am  koor 

toloy 

tui 

uo-kfoor' 

moo  ro8r 

coyompis 

kwui,  hwui  lai 

ka-her 

to  ro  hydr 

palay 

mi 

yo-me 

psar 

mayaman 

fii 

to-moo 

ka  Sm  yor 

banal 

shi 

i  sa  gi  yokf 

or  hoor 

talandac 

yu  shau 

mi  gi 

or  hoor 

tindig 

ki  shin 

o-kor 

nir 

ylog 

kiang 

ka-wa,  ga-wa 

ha  syoo 

daan 

tau  lii 

o-ho-tsi 

kir 

lupig 

takie 

noo-soom 

to  tsdk  tsir  h»r 

i-si 

ogat 

kan 

ne 

poor  hooi 

pisi,  lubir 

Ian 

tsoo-na 

no 

dorog 

fii 

ta-da-re 

sok  koor 

mabilog 

yuen 

msr'  ki 

toong  koor 

tacbo 

pau 

ha-  sir 

tiir  oor 

tinaday 

wan  tang 

ya-soo-si 

p'hdn  bar 

layag 

shi 

ho 

Uit 

asin 

yen 

si-wo 

so  kom 

caniucha 

tung 

o-na-zi 

kan  ka  t  -i 

bohangin 

shu 

soo-na 

mfi  «"• 

tubes 

kiii 

Boo-kfoo-oo 

kw  won 

2  Q 


562 


VOCABULARY 


English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Sea 

mar 

laut 

bagat 

laou  ood 

See 

ver 

Hat 

mag  tanao 

pangatood 

Seek 

buscar 

chari 

mangita 

Sell 

vender 

jual 

mag  baliguia 

mugbi 

Send 

despacher 

panggil 

parah 

Serpent 

serpiente 

ular 

haas 

Sew 

coser 

jahit 

mag  tahi 

nanu  hi 

Shallow  (a) 

baxio 

tohor 

bab  o  bo 

Shape 

hechura 

rupa 

daagboos 

Ship 

buque 

kapal 

sacayan 

kapal 

Short 

corto 

pendek 

pan  daak 

Show 

mostrar 

mengajar 

tonjok 

Shut 

cerrar 

tutup 

Sick 

enfermo 

sakit 

sakit 

Silent 

cidlar 

bcrdiam 

mag  hilum 

du  hoom 

Silver  (to  be) 

plata 

perak 

pilak 

pirak 

Sister 

hermana 

fsudara  peram- 
\     puan 

igsuou  nga  bay 

ftai  maughood 
\     babai 

Sit 

sentarse 

duduk 

mag  lincud 

ning  cood 

Slave 

esclavo 

buaak 

Sleep 

dormir 

tidor 

mag  tulog 

ma  toog 

Slow 

lento 

lalei 

ma  la  lai 

Small 

pequeno 

kechil 

dictai 

asibi 

Softly 

blandamente 

perlahan 

mahinay 

Some 

algo 

barang 

tiu  tiu 

Son 

hijo 

anak  laki  laki 

anac  nga  lalaqui 

anak  oosoog 

South 

snr 

salatan 

sa  atan 

Speak 

hablar 

kata 

mag  pulong 

bailah  sui  sui 

Stand 

pararse 

tegga 

too  min  dig 

Star 

estrella 

bintang 

bi  too  oon 

Stay 

esperar 

nanti 

Steady 

firme 

tagoh,  tatap 

tatap 

Stomach 

estomago 

ampadal 

lungan  lungan 

Stone 

piedra 

batu 

bato 

batu 

Stop 

detener 

nanti 

doo  hoom 

Straight 

derecho 

betul 

matulid 

tulid,  boon  tool 

Strong 

fuerte 

kunsit 

basoag 

Sugar 

azucar 

gnla 

sucar 

Sun 

sol 

mata  ari 

ad  lao 

mata  sugah 

Sweet 

dulce 

manis 

mai  mooh 

Sword 

espada 

pedang 

pudang 

TAKE 

tomar 

ambel 

kawahoon 

Tall 

alto 

tinggi 

malaas.mangkau 

Tame 

manso 

jinak 

iiad-lah 

OF  LANGUAGES 


563 


Caff  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

bebay 

dagat 

hai 

oo-mi 

patS 

ng  singan 

quita 

kien 

mir 

por 

pagalec 

hanap 

tsin  choh 

tats'-noor' 

no 

malacu 

bili 

mai 

oor' 

p'har 

lapas 

ki 

yar' 

po  uair 

ahas 

yi  tiau  shie 

hey  ni 

pai  yam 

malutu 

tahi 

fung 

noof 

h.5r 

mababao 

tsien 

a-sa-si 

yot  t'hoor 

pagca 

hing  siang 

ka-ta-tsi 

or  koor 

barangai 

balangay 

yi  chi  chuen 

foo-ne 

pai 

maicli 

twan 

mi-zi-ka-si 

tsyo  roor 

toro 

pi  kaii 

a-ra-was" 

ka  ra  ts'hir  boom 

pinir 

yen  muu 

to-dsoor' 

tii  toor 

masaquit 

yii  ping 

ya-ma-i 

py-ong 

ari  mapua 

tahimic 

me 

mokf  ' 

tsam  tsam 

pira 

pilac 

pe  kin 

gin,  si-ro-ga-ne 

oon 

vagui  a  babai 

capatir  na  babayi 

toz' 

imo-oo-to 

mat  noo  ooi 

magui  tubang 

locloc 

tso' 

soo  war,  za 

an  tsoor 

bulisic 

mi 

to  ra  ha-re            tsyong  no 

maca  turuc 

tolog 

shui 

ner',  nc-moor        noo  oor 

marahan 

man 

noor'-si                  to  tooir 

badi 

munti 

siau 

ko-ma-ka-ni          tsyo  koor 

matanay 

marahan 

tsiiiu  (siau 

ta-ya  soo-ki         '.  yong  yong 

balang 

yii  sie 

hok 

ana 

anac  nalalaqni 

tsz'  si 

moos'-ko 

a  toor 

tanghali 

nan 

mi-na-mi 

nam  myok 

pagubobuc 

pangusap 

kiang 

i-oo,  mo-no-i-oo 

mar 

tab  an 

cheu 

tats' 

syor 

bitoin 

yi  li  sing 

ho-si 

pyor 

hiutay 

chi  si  kieu 

to-mcr' 

poo  t'hor 

matibay 

to  tang 

tsoo-yo-si 

sicmora 

pi  wei 

i-nof  ' 

yang 

battu 

bato 

yi  kwai  shi 

i-si 

tor  syok 

harang 

chi,  chii  chi 

to-do-moor 

koi)  ts'hir 

matunun 

matouir 

chi 

na  wo  si' 

ko  toor 

malacas 

yvl  li 

tsoo-yo-si 

sooik  sooik  bar 

issi 

bulas 

tang 

sa-to-oo 

syor  tang 

bilac 

arao 

j' 

ti 

nar 

matamys 

kati 

a  ma  ki 

tar 

calis 

tan                         tsoor'-gi,  ken 

hwau  to 

coha 

tsii                          tor'                         tn'hyooi  hiir 

laas 

kim  sail                   ta-ka-i                    no  p'hoor 

innamo                   vang  shcn  liau       na  rour' 

2  a  2 


564 


VOCABULARY 


Enylish. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloeo. 

Taste 

gustar 

me  rasa 

kiua  man 

Tea 

te,  cha 

teh 

soog-ti  toobig  ti 

Teeth 

dientes 

gigj 

ipoon 

TeU 

decir 

britau 

na  pamongan 

Tempest 

tempestad 

ribut 

onos 

ribut 

baquio 

Thaiik 

agradecir 

taiima  kasih 

dios  mag  bayad 

dhili 

dios  ti  humalis 

That 

aquel 

itu 

ia  in  in 

The 

el 

itu 

Theft 

hurto 

pen-churian 

There 

alii 

di  situ 

didto 

didtoo 

dita 

Thick 

grueso 

tabal 

madak  mool 

Thief 

hnln.ni 

pen-churi 

cauatan 

main  dukao 

mannanacao 

Thirsty 

sediento 

aus 

uhao 

oo  haod 

maoaoac 

This  (these) 

estc 

ini 

ini 

Throat 

garganta 

kungan 

lioog 

Tide  flood 

plena  mar 

pasang  naik 

ta  oot 

ebb 

marea  mengua 

. 

laang  hunas 

aguas  vivas 
baxa  mar 

esar 

tubig  dacola 
hunas 

knng 

Tie  (to) 

atai1,  ligar 

kabat 

mag  gacut 

boo  koo  hae 

panangreppet 

Tin 

estauo 

tiinah 

tangah  putih 

Tired 

cansado 

payah' 

mabutlay 

nabannugac 

To  (unto) 

a 

akan 

ha 

Together 

juntos 

sama  sama 

uban 

agcuyug 

Tongue 

lengua 

ledah 

lilah 

Torment  (to) 

molestar 

gaduh 

mag  sakit 

panagunget 

Travel 

caminar 

ber-jalan 

panac 

pano-oot 

pannangna 

Tree 

arbol 

puhun 

pono  sa  cahuy 

pohun  bataiig 

kago 

True 

verdadero 

benar 

benal 

UNABLE 

inhabil 

tiada  bulih 

Under 

debaxo 

de  bawa 

Understand 

entender 

meng  arti 

Unfair 

doble 

korang  betul 

Unfit 

inepto 

tiada  patut 

Untie 

desatar 

buka 

Urine                  '  orina 

ayer  kinching 

kabawah 
man  oi  man 


tatou  an,  ihi 


VALOUR 

valor 

ka-barani-an 

Vein 

vena 

urat  darah 

Victuals 

viveres 

makanan 

Village                ;  pueblo 
Vomit                    vomitar 

dusun,  nepri 
rauntah 

isug 


tured 


ugat  mana  hoot 
ka  oo  noon 
pariau 
muntah 


OP  LANGUAGES.                                                                 565 

Batan  . 

Cay  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

taga  man 

tiping 

chang 

na-mar' 

mat  por 

cha  ye 

ts'  ya 

ts'ha 

nipoou 

ngipiu 

ya 

ha,  ki-ba 

01 

bata 

babala 

kau 

-00 

kohar 

anin 

bagui 
mabalabalo 

bagyo 
salamat 

pau  fung 
sie 

ha-ya-te 
on-wo  ka-nz 

p'ho  phoong 
sya  rey 

'iya 

yaon 

na 

so-re,  so-no 

ko<5 

ang 

ki 

daycot 

tau  sz' 

to  tsok  tsir  har 

turi 

doon 

na  chii 

ka-si-ko-ni 

mabagal 

hau 

ats-si 

toot  to  <5r 

inauacao 

matacatacao 

magnanacao 

tse 

noons'  f'to 

to  tsok 

cauao 

mapangula 

ohao 

koh 

ka-wa-ki 

kar  har 

yari 

tsz' 

ko-re,  ko-no 

i 

lagao 

liig 

hau  lung 

no-do 

in  hoo 

maneb 

dagat  laqui 

chau  chang  liau 

mi-tsi  si-ho 

tsyo  syoo 

laguang 

i.  "i. 

chau  tiii  liau 

si-ho  ti 

ho  yo  tsir 

1  nioas 

ca  laguang 

syok  sy5o 

tagas 

panguipango 

babat 

pang 

moo-soob' 

mait  kyor 

tingaputi 

se 

soo-zoo 

tsyoo  syok 

mabanaga 

pagal 

kiuen 

oom' 

kas  par 

di 

ay  (fern  ),  oy  (m.)  chi 

o-yo-i 

ni  r& 

cabulan  gangan 

sabay 

tung  tsai 

to-mo-ni 

ha  8r 

rida 

dilah 

she  tau 

si-ta 

hyo 

sumuli 

mappo  paray 

douahagui 

ki  nau 

i-takf-se-mer' 

pon  ki 

mauaguey 

lumacao 

lacar 

yu  hioh 

ta-bi-soor' 

lo  tsyoug 

kayu 

cahuy 

yi  kan  shu 

ki,  si-yu  bok 

na  mo 

uyur 

catotuhanan 

chin  shi 

ma-ko-to 

ts'  ham 

tongac 

pu  nang 

a-ta-wa-noo 

sulib 

hia 

si-ta-ni 

a  riii 

malay 

hiau  te 

ga-tcn-sur 

ar 

may  can  a 

pu  kung  tau 

foo  ren  ts'yokf 

ko  tsoot 

pu  hoh  yiuig 

foo  sa-oo  wo-oo 

calag 

kiai  kie 

ho-dokf 

p'hoor 

puetec 

ybi                      |  niau 

s'aja-oo  ben 

o  tsom 

halga                     yung 

i-sa-mi                  niir  niiir 

uyat 

litir                     {  hiue  kin 

gels'  m'  ynkf 

muik 

laan                        shi  wu 

ka-tc 

piin  i-'linii 

dequez  aidi 

bayan                      tsun 

moo-ra                '  gwi  kor 

suca                       an  tu 

hakf  '                     t'ho  hKr 

566 


VOCA.BULA.RY 


Spanish. 

Malay. 

m  say  an. 

Sooloo. 

lloco. 

sneldo 

gaji 

esperar 

nanti 

tagadkow 

pasear 

berjalan 

panokoh 

necessitar 

chita 

, 

guerra 

prang 

gubad 

gubat 

caliente 

angat,  panas 

passooh 

lavar 

basoh 

ma  ma  moos 

agua 

ayer 

tubig 

toobig 

danum 

tawar 

*»n4-ni«««n 

\  i  «.   . 

!„.,» 

j      i_ 

marea  alt  a 

pasang  besar 

dakola 

v  ~. 

kring 

bunas 

oaxa 

nosotros 

kita,  kicnii 

kita,  kanii 

floxo 

lemah 

look  mai 

semana 

jumat 

j  in  nil  at 

llorar 

men-angis 

mag  hi  lac 

menangis 

panag  sangit 

fuente 

prigi 

pisag 

poniente 

barat 

a  bag  at 

mojado 

basah 

bassa 

basah 

nabasa 

que 

apa 

oo  noo 

quando 

apa-bfla 

ano  sa 

bang 

ca  ano 

adonde 

mana 

ha  di  in 

qua! 

iang  mana 

ing  ha  di  in 

bianco 

putih 

maputi 

putih 

napudao 

quien 

siapa 

isiu 

todo 

bulah 

de  quien 

siapa  punia 

porque 

meng-apa 

gua  no  ba 

ma  hi 

apayapay 

malvado 

jahat 

mangi,  jabat 

muger  casada 

bini,  istri 

bana,  sawah 

a  I  it-lio 

lawas 

ka  bang 

voluntad 

suka 

viento 

angin 

tlangin 

angin 

angin 

vino 

anggor 

alak 

ang  goor 

arak 

invierno 

musim  dingin 

musim  haggot 

anhelar 

chita 

con 

dangan 

dangan 

dentro 

de  dalam 

sa  salud 

uneg 

fuera 

de  luar 

sa  guas 

puar 

muger 

perampiian 

babai,  bai               babai 

b'abai 

madera 

kayu 

cahui                      kahoi 

tari  cayo 

mnndo 

dunya 

duuya 

| 

peor 

lebih  buruk 

labing  daiitan 

mangi  tood 

dacdaqucs 

herida 

luka 

paalih 

herir 

mcluka 

pi  ali  hay 

OF  LANGUAGES. 


567 


Bat  an. 

Cog  ay  an. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

tandan 

opa 

kung  yeo 

sakf  re-oo 

nanagayen 

hintay 

hau 

mats' 

moor  ri 

ligao 

hing 

yukf' 

neyr 

ybig 

yau 

ho-tsoos' 

toong  yo 

capayarap 

bacal 

pagbabaca 

kiau  cheu 

cuyat 

mainit 

nwan 

ata  ta  ka 

ta  sar 

maybasa  basa 

hogas 

si 

araf 

or  to 

danum 

danum 

tubig 

shui 

mi-dsoo 

moor  syoo 

«*n4-Al.An*. 

*     *j  > 

til  -1)1) 

alat 

si  mius 
si-wo  raids' 

syoo  tsong 

shui  ta 

tsyo  syoo 

—  kiiu 

syok  syoo 

yamuen,  sira-mo 

cami 

chin 

wa-re-ra 

a  toong 

mahina 

joh 

yo-wa  si 

yak  bar 

lingo                    ;  yi  ko  li  pai 

tumanis 

tangis                    hia  lui 

nakf 

oor 

miun 

bucal 

shwang  kwai 

i-de 

06  moor 

asdepan   nu  arao 

calonoran 

si  fang 

ni-si 

syos  nyok 

baysac 

shi 

noo-rcc-te 

tso  tsoor 

gaano 

shin  mo 

na-ni-wo 

ha  ir 

amangu 

cani 

caylan 

ki  shi 

to-ki-ui 

ha  si 

di  nu 

saan 

na  li 

do  ko-ni 

ha  ts'hyo 

angou 

alin 

na 

i-ts-re 

pfi 

maydac 

mapurao 

anaputi 

pe 

si-ro-si 

hoin 

angou,  sinu 

sino 

shui,  shu 

ta-re-ga 

noo  koo 

obus 

tsung  kang 

mat-ta-si 

tsydn  yon 

sino 

shi 

ta-rc-ga 

noo  koo 

oontah  paru 

ng  atta 

baquit 

wei  ho 

zi-yo  ka 

masamo 

ngoh  ti 

war'  si 

mo  tsir 

bini  bini 

tsi 

tsoo-ma 

an  1  n  i 

maloang 

kwoh 

ft  ro  ki 

t'hoop 

loob 

chi 

ko-ko-ro  sa-si 

stoot  tsi 

salansao 

padak 

hangin 

fnng 

ka-ze 

pa  ram 

danum,  asoy 

vina  ra'yang 

alak  tubig 

tsiu 

sa  kc 

sodr 

tagolan 

tung 

foo-yu 

kyd  od 

ygaya 

yoh 

ne-gaf 

won  hor 

cay 

yii 

mot-tc 

to  ]>oor 

lagum 

loob 

nui 

oo-tsi-ni 

an 

lauan 

loual 

tsai  wiii 

so-to-ni 

pat 

mabaques 

babagi 

babayi 

nu  jin 

o-na-go 

kry  tsip 

binati,  kayu 

kayu 

calap,  cahuy 

lin 

ta-ki-gi 

SDIIl 

sanglibutan 

shi  kii'ii 

so-ka-i 

In  kan 

curuga  maracay 

sama 

kang  pu  huu 

yo-ri  war'  kf 

mo  tsir 

manganu,  nuca 

sugal 

sluing  rim 

manganuryun 

sugat 

lung 

rxis 


VOCABULARY 


English. 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

J>  is  ay  an. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

Write 

escribir 

tulis 

mag  sulat 

yoo  lis  an 

panag  surat 

Wrong 

errado 

soloh 

sa-ah 

YEAR 

ano 

tiiun 

taun 

Yellow 

aiuarillo 

kilning 

maraag 

bi  auing 

amarillo 

Yes 

si 

eya 

00 

oo,  ipoon 

oen 

Yesterday 

ayer 

kalmari 

cagahapon 

ka-ha-koon,  man 

caiman 

You 

usted 

angkou 

ikau 

Young 

joven 

muda 

olitao 

bagoong  batah 

ubing 

Your 

vuestro 

angkau  puiiia 

kanioo 

NUMBEES. 


1 

ano 

satu 

usa 

isaio 

meysa 

a 

dos 

dua 

duha 

dua 

dua 

3 

tres 

tiga 

tulo 

too 

tallo 

4 

cuatro 

ampat 

upat 

upat 

eppat 

5 

cinco 

lima 

lima 

lima 

lima 

6 

seis 

anam 

u  num 

oon  oom 

innem 

7 

siete 

tujnh 

pito 

pi-too 

pito 

8 

ocho 

delapar 

ualo 

u-al-loo 

ualo 

9 

nueve 

sambilan 

siarn 

si-am 

siam 

10 

diez 

sapuluh 

napulo 

hang-pooh 

sangapulo 

11 

once 

sa-blas 

napulo  ug-nsa 

ang  potag-isah 

sagapulo   quet 

[meysa 

12 

doce 

dua-blas 

j 

*.1*n*     Jl,n 

Qua 

10 

,. 

titra-blas 

talo 

... 

tallo 

J.O 

14 

trece 
catorce 

ampat-blas 

° 

15 

quince 

lima-blas 

1  • 

i« 

llv«n 

llllld 

lima 

16 

diez  y  seis 

anam  bias 

irnnm 

. 

inv.n*» 

unum 

17 

diez  y  siete 

tujuh  bias 

«:  +«« 

m|>jC 

18 

diez  y  ocho 

delapan  bias 

i 

11 

__|j( 

uaio 

u  ai  10 

19 

diez  y  nueve 

sambilan  bias 

mam 

• 

MA«n 

si-am 

20 

v<;inte 

dua  pulnh 

calohaan 

kow-haan 

dua  puloh 

21 

viente  ydos 

dua  puluh   satu, 

calohaan  may  usu 

kow  tagisah 

dua   puloh  quet 

[&c. 

[meysa 

30 

trienta 

tiga  puluh 

kat  loan 

kiit  looan  tagisah 

tal  lo  pulo 

40 

cuarenta 

ampat  puluh 

kapatau 

kapatan 

eppat  apulo 

50 

cincnenta 

lima  puluh 

kaliman 

kai-man 

lima  pnlo 

60 

sesenta 

duam  puluh 

ka-nu  man 

ka-moo  man 

innem  apulo 

70 

setenta 

tujuh  pulnh 

kapi  toan 

ka  pi  tooan 

pito  pulo 

OF  LANGUAGES. 

Bat  an. 

Cagayan.                Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese.       \        Korean. 

matura 

sulat 

sie 

kakf 

ssoSr 

hiniona 

yu  pu  shi 

^08  rodr 

10 

halunah 

nguila 

taon 
dilao 

yi  nien 
hwang  sc 

to-si 
ki-i-ro 

hn&i  nyoii 
noo  ro6r 

in 

uan 

00 

shi 

ha-i 

i 

cagabi 

cahapun 

tsoh  jl 

ki-no-foo 

tsak  ir 

0 

ycao 

ni 

o-ma-e 

no 

nacan-a-tao 

bagong  tauo 

shau  shi 

i-tokf  '-na-si 

8  rir 

tmu 

yuyo 

ni  ti 

o-ma-e-no 

569 


NUMBERS. 


\ 

tadday 

ysa 

chid 

its' 

ban 

:i 

dim 

dalaua 

no 

ni 

too 

Ido 

talu 

tat-lo 

sa 

san 

sok 

it 

appa 

apat 

si 

si 

nok 

lima 

lima 

go 

g° 

ta  sat 

am 

anam 

anim 

lah 

rokf' 

yo  soot 

;u 

pitu 

pito 

chit 

sits' 

nir  kop 

ah  ho 

ualu 

ualo 

pe 

hats' 

yo  tarp 

.m 

siam 

siyam 

kah 

kfoo 

a  hop 

i  poh  hoh 

mafulu 

sangpouo 

chap 

zi  mi 

ydr 

i  sicharua 

kara  taday 

laliin  isa 

chap  id 

zi  oo  its' 

yor  han 

a  sicharua 

kara  dua 

chap  gi 

/A  oo  ni 

yor  too 

UaulUtl 

Ido  sicharua 

kara  tola 

—  tatlo 

chap  sab. 

zi  oo  san 

yor  sok 

at  sichama 

kara  appa 

apat 

chap  si 

zi  oo  si 

yor  nok 

nah  sicharua 

kara  lima 

ulima 

chap  go 

zi  oo  go 

yor  ta  sat 

am  sicharau 

kara  anam 

anim 

chap  lah 

zi  oo  kokf  ' 

yor  yo  soot 

u  sicharua 

kiira  pitu 

pito 

chap  chit 

zi  oo  sits* 

yor  nir  kop 

ah'ho  sicharua 

kara  ualu 

Ualo 

chap  pc 

zi  oo  hats' 

yor  yo  tarp 

m  'sicharua 

kara  siam 

• 

chap  kah 

zi  oo  kfoo 

yor  li  hop 

a  poh  hoh 

dua  fulu 

dalauaug  pous 

gi  chap 

ni  zi  oo 

han  yor 

k  si  tehaddo 

*,         1     1.          T 

A  • 

gi  id 

n  i  zi  oo  its' 

too  yor  han 

do  n  poh  hoh 

talu  fulu 

tat  long  pouo 

ga  chap 

san  zi  oo 

sok  yor 

it  a  poh  hoh      appa  fulu 

apat  napouo 

si  chap 

si  zi  oo 

nok  yor 

iah  a  poh  hoh 

lima  fulu 

lima  nnpoiio 

go  chap 

go  zi  oo 

til  sat  yor 

un'a  poh  hoh 

anamafulu 

anim  napouo 

la  chap 

rokf  zi  oo 

yo  soot  yor 

a  a  poh  hoh 

pitu  fulu 

pito  napouo 

chit  chap 

siz  zi  oo 

lur  kop  yor 

VOL.  II. 


570 


VOCABULAKY 


English.         ' 

Spanish. 

Malay. 

Bisayan. 

Sooloo. 

Iloco. 

80 

ochenta 

delapan  puluh 

caualoan 

ka  ua  luan 

oalo  pulo 

90 

noventa 

sumbilan  puluh 

kasiaman 

knsi  aman 

siam  apulo 

100 

ciento 

sa  ratus  puluh 

usa  kagatos 

bangutoos 

sangagasut 

200 

dos  cientos 

dua  ratus  puluh 

duha  kagatos 

dua  hangootoos 

dua  nga  gasut 

1,000 

mil 

snribu  puluh 

usa  kalibo 

hangiboo 

sang  ariba 

10,000 

dicz  mil 

salaksa  puluh 

napulo  kalibo 

salaksa 

dua  nga  ribo 

100,000 

cien  mil 

saketi  puluh 

usakagatos  kalibo 

saketi 

sang  agasat  ar 

OF  LANGUAGES. 


571 


Batan. 

Cagayan. 

Tagala. 

Chinese. 

Japanese. 

Korean. 

ooah  hoapoh  hoh 

ualu  fitlu 

ualo  napouo 

pe  chap 

haz  zi  oo 

yo  tiirp  yor 

siam  a  poh  hoh 

siamafulu 

siam  napouo 

ka  chap 

kfoo  zi  oo 

a  hop  yor 

magatu 

sang  daan 

chuppe 

f'yakf 

Ir  paik 

dua  gatu 

duluan  daiiD 

no  pe 

marifu 

isan  libo 

ching 

sen 

Ir  ts'hyoa 

mafulu  rifu 

sampuong  libo 

chap  ching 

magatu  tasifu 

sang  yota 

checlio 

2  R2 


POSITIONS  OF  PLACES  DETERMINED  IN  THE  VOYAGE. 


Name  of  Place. 

Latitude. 

East 
Longitude. 

Var. 

Dip. 

Ambong      

6°1S'26"N. 

116°  15'  33" 

1°20'   5"E. 

0°34'12"N. 

Anjer               .          

6    3  30  S. 

105    54     0 

1     7  30  E. 

26  48    0   S. 

Apo  Minor,  Island  East,      .... 
Arji  Tanion°° 

1240    3N. 
1  56  36  N. 

120    24     0 
102  20    20 

0     8  42  E. 

12  39  40  N. 
11  10  27  N. 

Balambangan,  S.E.  Point,    .... 
Banca  Strait,  S.W.  Point,    .... 

7  12    ON. 

1  46  24  N. 
20  27  26  N. 

116  50    28 
124  59    3$ 
121  55    51 

1     7  24  E. 
0  20    OW. 

1  16  30  N. 

27  22  50  N. 

Black  Island   (Korea)     

34  16  34  N. 

127   13    26 

2  24  10W. 

48  15  56  N. 

B  ulun  °*cin  Cit  v 

2  48  39   S. 

117  17    25 

j  * 

2  46  36   S 

117  40    33 

0  30  27  E. 

Busoagon,  E.  Point,  Calamianes, 
Cabras,  see  Goat  Island,      .... 
Caravan  (Sooloo)                 .... 

12  15  29  N 
6  58    4  N 

120  22    11 
118  25    30 

0  30  30  E 
0  12  29  E 

12    8  25  N. 
0  56  50   S, 

Cagayanes,  Mindoro  Sea,  (N.E.  Islet) 
Calusa                  „                     „ 
Cargados  Garajos  (Cocos  Island)   .     . 
Crescent  Island  (Korea)       .... 
Datoo  Tanjong  .     .         
Disaster  Island,  (Japanese)  E.  Point, 
Dumaran  Island  (E.  Point.)      .     .     . 
Eden  Island  (Ghielpart)  
Fortune  Island  Luzon,   

9  37  38  N 
9  35  53  N 

16  48  54  S 
33  58  50  N 
2     5  24  N 
29  40    6  N 
10  29  12  N 
33  19  20  N 
14     2  45  N 

121  18    53 
121     3    53 
59  30    43 
126  51    40 
109  40    25 
129  29    38 
119  53      8 
126     4    56 
120  26    30 

0  44  28  E 

3  10  32  E 
1  36    0  E 
3     3    OW 
0  24  34  E 
3  14    OW 

7  37    ON. 

50  11  15   S. 

8    7  30  N. 

Goat  Island  (Cabras),  S.W.  angle, 
Garza,  Mindoro,    
Gunun°°  Taboor  (Citv)    

13  52  31  N 

12  12  26  N 
2     9  59   S 

119  53      4 
121     9    16 

117  27      0 

0  28  15  E 
0  38     8  E 

15  13  30  N. 

11  29  22  N. 
9     6    0   S 

Haddington,  Port,  (Me'ia-co-sliimalis) 
Hong-Kong      
Hoa-pin-san  (N  face)     

24  25    ON 
22  16  27  N 
25  47    7  N 

124     1    53 
114     8    33 
123  25    44 

1     3    OW 
0  37  20  E 
2     8    6W 

33  43    0  N. 
30  50  30  N. 

Ibu^os  Batanese        

20  19  27  N 

121  46    35 

Keeling,  Direction  Island,         .     . 
Kuching,  Sarawak,     

12     5  31  S 
1  33  23  N 

96  51    38 
120  21    33 

1  23  20W 
1  28     5  E 

38  55     7   S. 
10  55  12  N, 

Kulas<*ien  (Sooloo  Sea)    

6  24  48  N 

120  34    52 

0  46    9  E 

0  42  25   S 

Labuan  K/oosoocan,   

5  12    5  N 

115     5    24 

1  16  32  E 

Iji°itan  (Sand  Island)     

4  19    9  N 

118   30    30 

0  45     3  E 

4  55     OS. 

Luban,  (Looc  Bay),  (E.  side)  . 

13  4348N 

120  13    56 

0  39    0  E 

POSITIONS  OF  PLACES. 


573 


Name  of  Place. 

Latitude. 

East 
Longitude. 

Var. 

Dip. 

jiindu  mouth  

1°41'42"N 
26  12  20  N. 
6  43    ON. 
1  38  49  N. 
2  15    9   S. 
22  11  10  N. 
1  38  50  N. 
5    0  22  N. 
14  35    7  N. 
11  36  10  N. 
1  39  48  N. 
1  30  22  N 
20  10  30  S 
]  21    4  N 
32  43  32  N 
2  37    5   S 
1  51  44  N 
2  30  12   S 
2    2  16  S 
11  50  40  N 
24  21  20  N 
24  25     ON 
29  51  48  N 
0  21  31  N 
1  43  50  N 
6  42  22  N 
33  29  40  N 
1  20  24  N 
640  52  N 
5  28  18  N 
6  54  55  N 
7    1  17  N 
1  17    ON 
1  49  1  7  N 
22  38  20  N 
34    4  22  N 
6    3  11  N 
5  51  22  N 

109°  5V  26" 
127  35  57 
116  20  21 
110  29  47 
118  29     0 
113  30  18 
110  30  21 
115     8  29 
120  55  16 
121  39  57 
124  35     7 
124  43  10 
57  29  25 
126  16  37 
129  43  53 
108  11  44 
108  38  33 
118     1  30 
117  46     2 
121  16  14 
124.  10     5 
124     1  53 
129  48  12 
127  28  15 
110  29  30 
121   52  23 
126  53     4 
120  41  37 
121  21   48 
120   12  50 
122     2  32 
121   51     2 
103  50  47 
109  48  27 
121   25  38 
127   15  25 
120  58     0 
120  46  48 

1°28'41"E. 
1  35  36  W. 
1  37  40  E. 

0  34  50  E. 

0  47  56  E. 
0  45  20  E. 
1    0    0  E. 
1    1  56  E. 
1130    OW. 

2  35  89  W. 
1  56  25  E. 
1  34  26  E. 

0  46    3  E. 
0  15  35  E. 

1    3    OW 
0  35  50  W 

0  50    0  E 
2  30  33  W 
1    1    3  E 
0  17  20  E 
0  40    0  E 
1  12    0  E 

0  33    0  E 
1  30    0  K 
0  19  32  W 
3    2    2\V 
0  33  38  E 
Oil     3  E 

0°37'55"N. 
36  13  20  N. 
0  12  17  N. 

30  41    0  N. 

3  10  33  N. 

16  24    0  N. 
10  29    0  N. 

10  21  31  S. 
3247  15  S 

45    6    2  N. 
19  48    7  S. 

10  57  30  N. 

33  43    0  N. 
44  80  18  N. 

46  52  55  N. 
10  46    8   S. 
0  17  40  N. 
1  55    4  S. 
1  27  25  N. 

12  40  31  N. 
30  43    0  N. 
1  47    5   S. 

joo-Choo,  Napa,  (Abbey  point)     . 
Mantanani  (I.  Borneo)    

Vloratabas  (E.  ent.  Sarawak)    . 
VEaratua  Island      

Macao  (landing-place,  fort,) 
VEorotabas  Point,  Sarawak,        .     . 
Vloarra,  Borneo  Proper,       .... 
Manila    
VTagnignin  
Vtanado  Tua     ....          ... 

•  town 

Mauritius    
Mevo  Is'  and 

j 
STangasaki  (Fishn.  Island)    .... 

Pigeon  Island,  Billiton,  

Pierre,  S.  Island,  (China  Sea)  .     .     . 
Premier  Reef,  Pulo  Panjang, 
Pantai  (Curan,  E.  Borneo,)  .... 
Panagatan,  or  Cambden  Shoal,       .     . 
Pa-tchung-sau,  Port  Providence,    . 

Pinnacle  Island  (Japanese)  .... 
Pirate  Island   Gilolo,       

Pulo  Taiijong  (reef)   

Pasanhan  (Basilan)     

Quelpart,  Beaufort  Island,  .     .     .     . 
River's  Point,  Celebes,  (Slirne  Island) 
Salleolookit  (Sooloo  Sea)    .... 
Samarang  Island  (Sooloo  Sea)  . 
Samboanga  town,  Vigia,       .     .     .     . 
._  watering-place 

Singapore  (fla(r-st«in')       

Samatan  river  (mouth)    

Samasana  (N  point)            .     .     .     . 

Surf  rock   (Samaran"')          . 

Sooloo         .                     

Sooladde      

574 


POSITIONS  OF  PLACES. 


Name  of  Place. 

Latitude. 

East 
Longitude. 

Var. 

Dip. 

Sautubon     

1°43'31"N. 
04521  N. 
25  57  13  N. 
6  25  38  N. 
24  43  35  N. 
5  17  17  N. 
21    4  56  N. 
24  25  58  N. 

110°  18'  17" 
127  11     0 
123  37     6 
116  23  36 
125  13  39 
119  11  56 
121  53  48 
122  55  34 

1°30'  0"E. 
0  40  30  E. 

1  0  0  E. 
1  24  10  W. 
0  53  10  E. 
1  557W. 
0  30  34  W. 

10°40'  0"N. 
11  43  50   S. 

34     3  56  N. 
2  33  53    S. 

Ternate  (west  extreme)  

Tia-usu  

Tampassook  river  .  ^'.          .... 

Ty-pin-san  (S.W.  bay)    

Unsanf  (N.E.  Borneo)   

Y'ami,  North  Bashee,      

Y-na-koo,  Meia-co-shimahs,      .     .     . 

APPENDIX. 

As  it  may  be  interesting  to  the  friends  of  those  engaged 
in  the  encounter  with  the  Pirates  off  Gilolo,  narrated 
in  Vol.  I.  p.  135-45,  the  following  list  is  appended  -.— 

3rd  of  June — on  Pirate  Island. 

Gig.— Capt.  Sir  Edward  Belcher. 

Mr.  M'c  Dougal,  Mast.  Assist. 
Crew — four  Seamen. 

Second  Barge.    One  six-pounder.    One  rocket  tube. 

Lieut.  W.  H.  Baugh. 

Mr.  H.  S.  Hooper,  Purser. 

W.  H.  Browne,  Mid.  (now  Lieut.) 

Jos.  H.  Marryat,  Naval  Cadet. 

Mr.  Adams,  Assist.  Surgeon. 

Crew  fifteen — fourteen  muskets — two  fowling-pieces. 

On  action  3rd  of  June,  2  to  6,  A.M.,  same  force. 


Second  Division  sent  to  punish  the  remainder. 
2nd  Barge.     One  six-pound,  brass.    Rocket-tube.    Fourteen  muskets. 

Lieut.  Heard. 

Mr.  Nuttal,  Mast.  Assist. 

Mr.  Adams,  Assist.  Surgeon. 

1.  Cutter.     One  three-pound,  brass.     Rocket-tube.     Ten  muskets. 

Lieut.  Baugh. 

Mr.  Robinson,  Mid. 

Mr.  Ormond,  Naval  Cadet. 

Crew  eleven. 

2.  Cutter.     One  three-pound,  brass.     Ten  muskets. 

Mr.  Loney,  Master. 

-  M'c  Dougall,  Mast.  Assist. 

-  Picle,  Naval  Cadet. 

3.  Gig. — Mr.  Hooper  as  before. 

These  were  sent  to  look  after  the  five  last  engaged,  and 
ten  others  which  escaped  to  a  creek. 


RKKVK,  BKNHAM,  and  RKKVK,  Printer?.  King  William  Street,  Strand. 


ERRATA. 


VOL.  I. 

PAGE  30,  line  2,  for  "  Musa,"  read  "  Muda." 
. .    57,  line  9,  for  "  WiUiams,"  read  Williapison." 

Chapter  III.  for  "Admiral  Cecil,"  read  "Admiral  Cecile." 

for  "  Alcade,"  read  "Alcalde,"  throughout. 
. .    70,  line  4,  for  "  Subtan,"  read  "  Sabtan." 
. .    79,  line  7,  for  "  permission,"  read  "  submission." 
. .    197,  line  22,  et passim,  for  "  Beche"  read  "  Biche." 
. .    198,  line  10  from  bottom,  for  "Robertson,"  read  "  Eoberton." 
.  .    201,  line  9,  for  "  Housman,"  read  "  Hoosman." 


VOL.  II. 

PAGE  16,  line  19,  for  "  matter,"  read  "  manner." 

. .  79,  line  21,  for  "  vessel,"  read  "vessels." 

. .  100,  last  line  to  be  transferred  to  foot  of  opposite  page. 

. .  118,  line  6,  for  "  five,"  read  "  fine." 

. .  140,  last  line,  for  "  have,"  read  "  has." 

. .  262,  line  9  from  bottom,  for  "  enabled,"  read  "  unable." 

. .  270,  line  8,  for  "  fright,"  read  "  flight." 


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