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A   VOYAGE 


TO 


THE     POLAE     SEA 


VOL.  II. 


LONDON  :    PRINTED    BY 

8POTTI8WOODE    AND    CO.,    NEW-STREET    SQUARE 
AND    PARLIAMENT    STREET 


NA.EEATIVB 

OF 


A  VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA 

DUKING   1875-6 

IN 

H.M.  XIIIPS  'ALERT'  AND  'DISCOVERY* 


BY 


,  E.N.,  K.C.B.,  F.E.S. 

COMMANDER   OP   THE   EXPEDITION 


WITH  NOTES  on  the  NATURAL  HISTORY 

EDITED    BY 

H.  W.  FEILDEN,  F.G.S.,  C.M.Z.S.,  F.R.G.S. 

NATURALIST  TO  THE  EXPEDITION 


IN    TWO    VOLUMES 
VOL.  II. 


LONDON 
SAMPSON    LOW,    MARSTON,    SEARLE,    &    RIVINGTON 

CROWN     BUILDINGS,    188    FLEET    STREET 

1878 

"_All    fights    reserved] 


£70 

ins 


706236 


CONTENTS 


THE    SECOND    VOLUME, 


CHAPTER   I. 

PAUK 

Anxiety  about  Aldrich's  party — Lieutenant  May  sent  to  relieve 
hi  111 — Geese  and  ducks  arrive — Return  of  Aldrich — Commence- 
ment of  thaw  — Extracts  from  Lieut.  Aldrich's  official  report  .  1 


CHAPTER  II. 

Decide  to  return  south — Setting-in  of  the  thaw — Musk-oxen  shot  — 
Increase  and  decrease  of  polar  floes — Formation  of  pen-knife  ice 
— Disruption  of  floes— Charr — Greenland  ice-cap — Drift-wood 
— Arctic  flowering  plants — '  Alert '  starts  for  Discovery  Bay  .  50 


CHAPTER  III. 

Greenland  party  attacked  with  scurvy — Deaths  of  two  men — Captain 
Stepheuson  proceeds  to  Polaris  Bay — Beaumont  returns  to 
Discovery  Bay — Account  of  his  proceedings  .  .  .  .82 


CHA'PTER  iv. 

Leave  Floeberg  Beach — Navigation  of  Robeson  Channel — Its  extreme 
difficulty— Cape  Union — Stopped  at  Cape  Beechey — Eskimo 
remains — Brent  geese — Rejoin  the  { Discovery  ' — Killing  a 
musk-ox — Return  of  Beaumont's!  party 114 


vi  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  V. 

PAGE 

Rich  vegetation — Bellot  Island — Coal  seam — Cape  Murchison — 
Leave  Discovery  Bay — Open  water — Kennedy  Channel — Stopped 
by  the  pack — '  Alert '  forced  on  shore — Severe  storm — Stopped  off 
Cape  Frazer— Dovekies — Enter  Dobbin  Bay — Temperature  and 
specific  gravity  of  the  sea — Lateness  of  the  season — Formation 
of  icebergs — Short  supply  of  coal — Pass  Victoria  Head — Open 
water — Visit  Cape  Isabella — News  from  England — Sir  Allen 
Young — Navigation  of  Smith  Sound  ....  140 

CHAPTER  YI. 

We  leave  Smith  Sound — Dark  at  midnight — Gale  of  wind — Barden 
Bay — Arctic  Highlanders — Possession  Bay — Cross  Baffin's  Bay — 
Temperature  of  the  sea — Arrive  at  Disco — Egedesminde — Severe 
gale — Rudder  head  sprung — Sight  the  'Pandora' — Arrive  in 
England — Approval  of  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty — Letter  from 
Her  Majesty  the  Queen  .  .  .  .  .  .177 

APPENDIX. 

I.  Ethnology 187 

II.  Mammalia         .            .             .             .             .             .       .  192 

III.  Ornithology  .  .  .  .  .  .206 

IV.  Ichthyology 218 

V.  Mollusca 223 

VI.  Insecta  and  Arachnida  .            .            .            ...  234 

VII.  Crustacea 240 

VIII.  Annelida 257 

IX.  Echinodermata        .  .  .  .  .  .260 

X.  Polyzoa             .            .            .            .            .             .       .  283 

XI.  Hydrozoa 290 

XII.  Spongida 293 

XIII.  Rhizopoda  reticularia           .....  295 

XIV.  Botany 301 

XV.  Geology 327 

XVI.  Report  on  Petermann  Glacier  .            .            .            .      .  346 

XVII.  Game  List   .  .  .  .  .  .  .352 

XVIII.  Meteorological  Abstract            .            .             .             .       .  354 

XIX.  Abstract  of  Results  obtained  from  the  Tidal  Observations  .  356 

INDEX  363 


LIST   OF   ILLTJSTEATIONS 

IN 

THE   SECOND   VOLUME. 


PHOTOGKAPHS. 

DISCOVERY  BAT— WINTER           ....  Frontispiece 

1  ALERT  '  NIPPED  NEAR  CAPE  BEECHEY,  ROBESON  CHANNEL  To  face  p.  129 

DISCOVERY  BAY — SUMMER           .            .            .            .  141 


FULL-PAGE  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

ICE-FOOT  NEAR  CAPE  UNION  (FROM  A  PHOTOGRAPH)    .  „        115 
LIGHTENING     A     STRANDED     FLOEBERG     OFF     CAPE 

BEECHEY  (FROM  A  PHOTOGRAPH)  „        130 

THE  'DISCOVERY'  ON  SHORE  (FROM  A  PHOTOGRAPH)   .  „        144 

ICE-FOOT  NEAR  CAPE  FRAZER  (FROM  A  PHOTOGRAPH)   .  „        153 

EGGS  OF  CALIDRIS  ARENARIA  „        210 

CRUSTACEA  240 


WOODCUTS. 

SOUNDING  FOR  LAND    .            .            .  .            .            .      .      31 

POST  OFFICE  CAIRN            .            .            .  .            .            .143 

' ALERT'  ON  SHORE       ...  148 


viii  LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

ALLMAN  BAY          .......  163 

LEFFERTS  GLACIER        .            .            .            .            .                  .  173 

SMOOTH-TOPPED  GLACIER  IN  BARDEN  BAY            .            .            .  179 

CYCLOPTERUS  SPINOSUS  .            .            .            .            .            .  219 

RADULA  OF  BUCCINUM  SERICATUM  .....  225 

TRICHOTROPIS  TENUIS    .            .            .            .            .            .  226 

ABNORMAL  DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  DENTAL  ARMATURE  IN  O.  SARSII  274 
PTYCHOGASTRIA  POLARIS  : — 

1.  LATERAL  VIEW  (magnified)      .            .            .            .      .  290 

2.  EQUATORIAL  PROJECTION  (magnified)          .            .            .  291 

3.  NATURAL  SIZE  .            .            .            .            .                  .  291 

MAP. 
OUTWARD  AND  RETURN  TRACKS  .  .  .     To  face  page  1 


NAEEATIVE 

OF 

A  VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA 

DURING    1875-76, 

CHAPTEE  I. 

ANXIETY  ABOUT  ALDRICH'S  PAETY — LIEUTENANT  MAY  SENT  TO  EELIEVE 
HIM GEESE  AND  DUCKS  ARRIVE — RETURN  OF  ALDRICH — COM- 
MENCEMENT OF  THAW — EXTRACTS  FROM  LIEUT.  ALDRICH' S  OFFICIAL 
REPORT. 

THE  crippled  state  of  Commander  Markham's  men 
raised  serious  apprehensions  regarding  the  health  of  the 
western  division  of  travellers.  They  were  due  at  the 
Joseph  Henry  depot  on  the  13th,  but  as  Aldrich's  last 
accounts  informed  me  that  the  provisions  he  had  saved 
would  enable  him  to  prolong  his  journey  six  or  seven 
days,  and  not  expecting  that  his  men  would  be  called 
upon  to  undergo  much  more  severe  labour  than  former 
Arctic  travellers  had  successfully  combated,  I  was  not 
greatly  alarmed  about  him.  Nevertheless  frequent  and 
anxious  visits  were  made  to  the  look-out  hill,  from 
whence  the  black  pile  of  provisions  forming  his  depot 
VOL.  n.  B 


2          VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        JUNE 

could  be  indistinctly  seen,  though  thirty  miles  distant, 
whenever  the  atmosphere  was  clear. 

I  continue  to  quote  from  my  journal  :— 

'  14th. — After  seeing  Markham's  men  made  com- 
fortable, and  distributing  Sherard  Osborn's  cham- 
pagne to  those  among  them  whom  the  doctor  permitted 
to  receive  it,  I  ascended  to  the  look-out  cairn.  The 
depot  appeared  smaller  than  when  last  seen,  so  I  con- 
clude that  Aldrich  has  visited  it.  If  so  he  will  be  at 
Knot  Harbour  to-morrow,  and  will  signal  from  thence. 

'  15th. — The  invalids  are  already  showing  signs  of 
improvement,  and  are  in  excellent  spirits.  Misty 
weather  prevents  our  seeing  the  depot,  but  there  was 
no  flag  hoisted  at  Cape  Eichardson. 

6  Although  the  ice  is  apparently  free  to  rise  and  fall 
with  the  tide,  it  does  not  do  so  to  the  full  extent,  the 
water  rising  and  falling  from  four  to  eight  inches  in 
each  crack  in  the  floe.  As  the  ship  is  firmly  sealed  to 
the  ice  any  tidal  observation  dependent  on  the  register 
being  secured  to  the  ship  would  require  a  correction. 

'  17th. — The  depot  was  distinctly  in  sight  to-day ; 
it  has  certainly  not  been  disturbed.  If  Aldrich  does 
not  arrive  there  to-morrow  a  relief  party  must  start  to 
meet  him ;  however,  he  is  so  judicious  an  officer  that 
I  have  every  confidence  in  his  actions  whatever  may 
overtake  him.  Arctic  sledging  is  necessarily  pre- 
carious work ;  although  with  specially  equipped  ex- 
peditions it  has  hitherto  been  attended  with  success 
yet  there  have  been  many. hair-breadth  escapes. 

'  In  favoured  localities  the  purple  saxifrage  is  in 
full  flower.  A  bright  piece  adorned  the  dinner- table 
to-day, 


1876  BELIEF  PARTY   STARTS.  3 

6 18th. — Last  night  the  temperature,  which  has 
been  up  to  freezing  point  for  two  days,  fell  to  20°. 
This  is  highly  favourable  for  the  travellers.  The 
colder  the  weather  the  better  road  will  they  find  across 
Feilden  Peninsula.  The  snow  on  the  floe  is  now  wet 
and  heavy  in  places,  but  the  thaw  cannot  be  said  to 
have  set  in.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  ship  it 
is  more  in  advance  than  elsewhere  ;  the  dirt  and  smoke 
from  the  funnels  collected  on  the  floebergs  in  the 
neighbourhood  help  to  absorb  the  heat-rays  from 
the  sun  and  to  quicken  the  natural  decay.  Owing  to 
the  pool  of  water  which  surrounds  the  ship  it  has 
been  necessary  to  construct  a  long  gangway  with  two 
spare  topsail  yards  to  bridge  over  the  space. 

'  All  the  powder  has  been  brought  on  board,  but  I 
am  waiting  for  warmer  weather  to  dry  the  magazine 
before  stowing  it  away. 

'  The  depot  being  still  untouched,  Lieutenant  May, 
with  well-rested  dogs  and  three  strong  men,  Malley, 
Self,  and  Thornback,  started  this  evening  to  meet 
Aldrich  and  his  party,  with  orders  to  continue  their 
journey  if  necessary  to  the  depot  at  Cape  Colan, 
where  Aldrich  was  due  twelve  days  ago. 

'  ~L$th. — The  country  in  our  neighbourhood  is  so 
covered  with  snow  that  it  would  be  useless  for  shoot- 
ing parties  to  leave  the  ship.  But  as  the  hills  near 
Cape  Richardson  present  a  more  promising  appearance 
Parr  and  Feilden,  drawing  a  small  sledge,  have  started 
for  Knot  Harbour  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  some  fresh 
game  ready  for  Aldrich's  men. 

'  Nelly,  Markham's    dog,  and  both    the   cats,  are 
suffering  in  health,  and  ore  supposed  to  ha\re  scorbutic 

B    2 


4          VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        JUNE 

symptoms.  Bruin,  an  old  dog  that  refuses  to  work 
with  the  sledge  team,  has  for  some  time  been  perform- 
ing very  valuable  service  in  dragging  fresh-water  ice 
from  the  quarry  to  the  ship.  The  men  merely  load 
the  sledge  and  start  him  on  his  journey,  when  he 
runs  home  by  himself.  To-day  I  observed  one  of  the 
men  riding  on  the  empty  sledge  for  a  short  distance 
where  the  road  was  hard :  the  dog  was  therefore 
dragging  about  two  hundred  pounds'  weight.  The 
poor  thing  looked  over  its  shoulder  occasionally,  begging 
for  compassion  and  a  little  more  consideration. 

'  20th. — At  3  A.M.  I  could  see  the  depot  plainly ; 
at  nine  it  was  not  so  distinct,  probably  on  account  of 
mirage.  A  small  tern  (Sterna  macrura)  with  a  black 
head  and  light  slaty-blue  wings  was  shot  while  hovering 
above  one  of  the  water-pools  formed  on  the  surface  of 
the  ice. 

'A  few  brent  geese  have  passed  us  flying  from 
Eobeson  Channel  towards  the  north-west,  but  two  of 
them  were  observed  to  return  south  again. 

'  All  the  ice  hummocks  which  have  projecting 
upper  surfaces,  and  the  mushroom-shaped  floebergs, 
denoting  age,  are  now  enveloped  in  a  drapery  of 
gigantic  icicles,  and  the  entrances  to  the  few  caves 
are  completely  blocked  up  by  them.  The  sharp  edges 
are  rounding  off  much  quicker  than  we  anticipated. 
Consequently  the  formation  of  the  glassy  ice-knolls 
on  the  surface  of  the  aged  floes,  out  of  a  range  of 
lofty  hummocks  of  pressed  up  angular  blocks  of  ice, 
may  not  occupy  a  very  great  number  of  years.  While 
the  ice  above  water  is  thus  melting  rapidly  from  the 
influence  of  the  sun,  that  exposed  to  the  warm  surface 


1876  DECAY   OF   SALT-WATER   ICE.  5 

water,  now  at  a  constant  temperature  of  30°,  is  decay- 
ing even  quicker.  By  eating  out  a  notch  at  the  water- 
line  a  new  mushroom-shaped  top  is  being  produced 
with  a  projecting  spur  below  water.  At  a  depth 
below  six  feet,  and  down  to  the  bottom  in  twenty- 
seven  feet,  the  temperature  is  29°'2,  a  rise  of  more 
than  half  a  degree  since  the  winter.  Unless  the  ice, 
when  in  course  of  formation  or  subsequently,  posesssed 
the  power  to  cast  out  a  very  considerable  proportion 
of  its  salt,  this  temperature  would  be  sufficient  to 
melt  it  rapidly ;  but  owing  to  the  comparative  purity 
of  the  salt-water  ice  it  is  decaying  very  slowly,  and 
has  undergone  very  little  change  during  •  the  last  three 
weeks. 

I2lst. — To-day  Markham  and  I,  after  an  hour's 
stay  on  the  hill-top,  with  the  atmosphere  fairly  clear, 
could  see  no  signs  of  the  depot.  Our  not  seeing  it 
may,  however,  be  due  to  the  rapid  melting  of  the  snow 
background  from  behind  the  black  stack  of  provisions, 
leaving  it  no  longer  in  relief. 

'  A  small  pool  of  water  was  met  with  for  the  first 
time  on  shore  under  a  cliff  with  a  southern  aspect. 

i  Now  that  the  ration  of  salt  meat  is  reduced,  the 
rough  salt  obtainable  from  the  salt  meat  brine  is  not 
sufficient  for  our  consumption.  It  is  a  curious  fact 
that  such  a  simple  but  necessary  article  was  the  only 
thing  forgotten  in  our  ample  outfit. 

'  22nd. — A  westerly  gale  which  set  in  yesterday 
has  continued  all  day,  with  a  temperature  up  to  35°. 
This  will  materially  hasten  the  thaw. 

'  The  temperature  of  the  land  eighteen  inches  below 
the  surface  is  only  6°.  As  the  temperature  of  the  air 


6          VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.       JUNE 

has  been  higher  for  the  last  forty  days,  the  conducting 
power  of  the  frozen  ground  must  be  very  small. 

*  A  light  mist  prevented  our  seeing  the  depot,  so  we 
remain  in  an  anxious  uncertainty  about  Aldrich's  party. 
'  A  flock  of  a  dozen  king-ducks  arrived  from  the 
southward,  the  first  that  we  have  seen.  They  appa- 
rently have  not  paired  yet.  They  remained  near  us 
for  two  or  three  hours,  but  were  too  wild  to  allow  the 
sportsmen  to  approach  near  enough  for  a  shot.  Dr. 
Moss  has  fixed  a  wooden  decoy-duck  in  one  of  the 
water-pools  near  the  ship  ;  but  the  passing  birds  are 
not  readily  attracted. 

4  When  we  compare  the  fairly-cleared  black  hills  of 
the  United  States  Eange  with  our  snow-covered  ground 
we  cannot  wonder  at  the  absence  of  game  in  our 
neighbourhood.  No  bird  or  beast  would  remain  where 
there  is  scarcely  a  bare  stone  on  which  to  rest  itself 
when  it  sights  the  prospect  of  well-vegetated  pastures 
near  Cape  Eichardson.' 

The  ducks  appeared  to  follow  immediately  on  the 
setting-in  of  the  thaw.  At  Floeberg  Beach  they 
arrived  on  the  22nd  of  June,  the  day  after  the  first 
pool  of  water  was  observed  on  the  land.  At  Discovery 
Bay  they  were  seen  on  the  12th  ;  but  there  the  thaw 
was  also  earlier,  the  ravines  commencing  to  run  on 
the  llth.  At  Polaris  Bay  in  1872  a  few  streamlets  of 
water  were  observed  by  Captain  Buddington  as  early 
as  the  3rd  of  June  ;  three  days  afterwards  the  ducks 
arrived. 

'  23rd. — To-day,  with  the  temperature  risen  to 
37°,  the  snow  has  become  so  soft  that,  except  in  the 
deepest  snow-drifts,  our  feet  sink  through  it  to  the  ice 


1876  POWER   OF   THE   SUN.  7 

below.  The  gravel  and  cinders  strewed  over  the  floe 
near  the  ship,  to  hasten  its  decay,  have  at  last  com- 
menced to  eat  their  way  down  through  the  ice.  This 
is  more  than  a  month  later  in  the  season  than  the 
same  event  occurred  at  Melville  Island  in  latitude 
75°  0'  in  1853. 

'  It  would  appear  that  the  sun,  unassisted  by  other 
causes,  is,  after  a  cold  winter,  not  sufficiently  powerful 
to  produce  a  thaw  on  a  snow-clad  ground  until  it 
attains  an  altitude  of  about  thirty  degrees  ;  if  this  is 
the  case,  then  at  the  North  Pole  it  is  doubtful  whether 
the  snow  ever  becomes  melted.  At  the  South  Pole, 
where  the  climate  is  little  affected  by  warm  ocean 
currents,  no  thaw  can  ever  take  place.' 

The  21st  proved  to  be  the  warmest  day  of  the 
year  at  Floeberg  Beach.  The  sun  having  then  an 
altitude  of  31°,  the  same  that  it  has  at  London  on  the 
12th  of  March  and  the  2nd  of  October,  the  black  bulb 
thermometer  exposed  to  the  sun's  rays  registered  a 
temperature  of  128  degrees.  In  the  sheltered  position 
of  Discovery  Bay  and  with  a  southerly  aspect,  a  similar 
thermometer  registered  the  same  temperature  on  the 
6th  of  June  when  the  sun  was  the  same  height  above 
the  horizon.  In  May  when  the  sun  attained  an  altitude 
of  twenty-three  and-a-half  degrees,  the  height  it  reaches 
at  the  Pole  at  midsummer,  the  greatest  amount  of 
heat  registered  by  the  black  bulb  thermometer  was 
95  degrees.  The  thaw,  however,  is  as  much  dependent 
on  warm  southerly  winds  as  on  the  direct  heat  of  the 
sim  at  the  place. 

'  2bth. — The  gale  died  out  this  morning,  leaving 
the  temperature  at  39°.     Several  ducks  were  observed 


8          VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        JUNE 

returning   south,  evidently  dissatisfied  with    our   late 
season. 

'  As  the  atmosphere  cleared,  a  large  party  visited 
the  look-out  hill,  Markham,  Giffard,  and  Egerton  using 
snow-shoes.  On  our  arrival  at  the  summit,  to  my 
intense  relief  we  observed  a  tent  pitched  on  the  ice  in 
Dumbell  Bay,  which,  as  May  would  not  be  returning 
without  having  news  of  Aldrich,  indicated  the  near 
approach  of  both  parties. 

'  At  the  same  time  we  were  again  treated  with  the 
glorious  iridescent  colouring  in  the  clouds  surrounding 
the  sun  ;  surely  conveying  some  message  of  reassuring 
love  and  protection  from  the  Divine  Maker  and  Pre- 
server of  us  all.' 

The  usual  time  of  the  commencement  of  the  thaw 
— between  the  14th  and  20th  of  June — having  passed, 
May's  journey  was  a  most  uncertain  one  ;  for  once  the 
delayed  melting  of  the  snow  set  in,  the  dogs  would 
be  powerless  until  after  the  waters  had  drained  off. 
His  early  return,  proving  that  he  had  not  been  called 
upon  to  perform  a  '  forlorn  hope  '  journey  beyond  the 
snow-filled  valleys  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  was  natu- 
rally a  very  great  relief  to  me,  and  the  deep  anxiety 
which  I  had  experienced  during  the  past  week  for 
the  safety  of  each  party  gave  place  to  a  feeling  of 
thankfulness  to  God  for  the  protection  He  had  extended 
to  them. 

On  the  morning  of  this  same  day  Lieutenant  Eaw- 
son  met  Beaumont  on  the  Greenland  shore,  struggling 
homeward  to  Polaris  Bay  with  his  crippled  crew — the 
very  last  march  they  could  possibly  have  performed 
but  for  the  relief  afforded  them. 


1876  RETURN   OF  THE   WESTERN   PARTY.  9 

Timing  our  departure  in  order  not  to  disturb 
Aldrich  and  his  crew  while  taking  their  daily  rest,  a 
large  party  started  in  the  evening  and  met  them  when 
about  five  miles  distant  from  the  ship. 

As  in  the  case  of  Markham's  men,  scurvy  had  made 
sad  havoc  in  their  ranks.  Out  of  the  eight  members 
composing  the  party  Lieut.  Aldrich  and  Adam  Ayles 
were  alone  able  to  work.  James  Doidge  arid  David 
Mitchell  were  gallantly  struggling  along,  each  with  the 
assistance  of  a  staff.  The  four  others,  after  holding 
out  as  long  as  human  nature  permitted,  had  to  be 
carried  on  the  sledges. 

Although  the  disease  had  actually  commenced 
during  the  outward  journey,  it  was  not  known  to  be 
scurvy  until  they  were  half-way  on  their  return  to 
the  ship.  Then  the  desolating  scourge  decidedly  pro- 
claimed itself,  and  most  nobly  was  it  combated  with 
by  officer  and  men,  the  distressed  invalids  struggling 
painfully  and  slowly  along  until  they  reached  to  within 
half-a-mile  of  the  depot  at  Cape  Joseph  Henry.  At 
the  very  moment  when  four  out  of  the  eight  were 
completely  prostrated,  and  it  was  physically  impossible 
for  the  party  to  have  advanced  farther,  and  Aldrich 
had  arranged  for  Ayles  to  proceed  by  himself  to  the 
ship  for  succour,  as  Lieutenant  Parr  had  done  only  a 
few  clays  previously,  to  their  great  and  mutual  joy 
May  with  his  relief  party  most  providentially  met  them. 
But  so  close  a  race  were  they  running  with  the  season 
that  the  day  after  they  crossed  Black  Cliff  Bay  the 
thaw  set  in ;  and  Parr  and  Feilden,  when  returning 
only  twenty-four  hours  afterwards,  were  so  frequently 
imbedded  up  to  their  middles  in  the  wet  snow  and 


10  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  APRIL 

cold  water,  which  covered  the  surface  of  the  sodden 
floe,  that  they  could  scarcely  recover  themselves. 
They  reported  it  quite  impassable  for  any  men  not  in 
full  health  and  strength,  and  totally  impassable  for 
heavy  sledges. 

The  following  is  a  summary  of  Lieutenant  Aldrich's 
journey,  with  extracts  from  his  official  report : — 

After  parting  company  with  Commander  Markham 
on  the  llth  of  April,  Aldrich  and  Giffard,  with  their 
two  sledges,  crossed  Feilden  Peninsula — the  watershed 
of  which  was  estimated  to  be  500  feet  above  the  sea- 
level.  They  arrived  at  the  shore  of  James  Boss  Bay 
on  the  15th,  having  been  obliged  to  resort  to  double- 
manning  the  sledges  for  the  greater  part  of  the  dis- 
tance. Four  hares  had  been  shot,  and  traces  of 
ptarmigan  seen.  Expecting  to  obtain  future  supplies 
the  game  wras  cooked  at  once  ;  it  was  fated  to  be  the 
only  fresh  meat  meal  that  they  obtained. 

On  the  16th  they  were  travelling  across  the  bay 
for  several  hours,  uncertain  whether  they  were  on  ice 
or  not,  so  much  did  it  resemble  the  snow-covered  land. 
In  crossing,  no  sign  of  any  rupture  or  crack  in  the  ice 
was  met  with  except  close  to  the  shore,  where  there 
was  a  slightly  raised  ice-hinge,  evidently  due  to  tidal 
motion,  and  proving  that  although  the  ice  in  James 
Boss  Bay  does  not  clear  out  during  the  summer,  it 
was  not  frozen  solid  to  the  bottom  of  the  sea. 

Sheltered  as  the  bay  is  from  the  prevailing 
westerly  winds,  the  snow  lay  in  a  very  soft  state,  and 
caused  severe  labour  in  advancing  the  sledges.  On 
the  17th  Crosier  Island  was  visited.  The  line  of  ice- 
hummocks,  which  denote  the  boundary  line  between 


1876  WESTERN  SLEDGE   JOURNEY.  11 

the  stationary  ice  and  that  in  motion  during  the 
summer,  was  observed  to  leave  the  coast  at  a  point 
about  three  miles  west  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  and  to 
pass  a  mile  outside  of  the  island,  and  apparently  a 
short  distance  outside  of  Cape  Hecla.  On  the  19th 
the  Parry  Peninsula,  two  and-a-half  miles  in  breadth, 
was  crossed,  and  the  shore  of  Clements  Markhain  inlet 
reached.  From  a  height  of  700  feet  above  the  sea  the 
line  of  ice-hummocks  was  observed  extending  to  the 
westward  in  a  line  crossing  the  mouth  of  the  inlet 
towards  Cape  Colan  with  a  level  ice-floe  to  the  south- 
ward, which,  like  that  in  James  Eoss  Bay,  never  clears 
out.  Aldrich  remarks  in  his  official  journal : — '  I 
question  if  the  ice  ever  breaks  up  altogether ;  the 
land  south  of  Cape  Colan  is  steep,  and  would  seem 
to  indicate  deep  water.'  With  clear  weather  it  was 
apparent  that  no  land  extended  to  the  northward  of 
Cape  Columbia,  and  the  travellers'  hopes  of  attaining  a 
high  northern  latitude  were  greatly  lessened.  Towards 
the  south-west  a  misty  atmosphere  prevented  the  land 
at  the  bottom  of  Markham  inlet  being  distinguished. 

On  the  22nd  Cape  Colan,  the  west  point  of  the 
inlet,  was  reached,  and  a  depot  of  provisions  left  for 
the  return  journey.  The  shore-hummocks  extended  in 
a  line  parallel  to  the  general  direction  of  the  land,  but 
at  a  distance  of  about  three  miles  from  the  apparent 
coast-line,  leaving  a  fairly  level  sledge  road  along 
shore,  which,  had  it  not  been  for  the  extremely  soft 
snow,  would  have  permitted  as  rapid  an  advance  as 
arctic  sledges  farther  south  had  usually  made.  The 
snow  continued  soft  as  long  as  the  coast-line  was  pro- 
tected from  the  prevailing  wind ;  to  the  westward  of 


12  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  APRIL 

Cape  Columbia  it  was  hard,  and  afforded  fair  travel- 
ling. 

It  was  often  difficult  to  decide  whether  they  were 
travelling  over  land  or  ice.  From  the  formation  which 
we  observed  taking  place  later  in  the  season,  when  the 
early  thaw  changed  the  upper  crust  of  the  snow  into 
ice,  above  which  the  summer  torrents  afterwards  de- 
posited soil  and  gravel,  it  is  probable  that  the  whole 
coast-line  between  the  shore-hummocks  and  the  high 
land  is  a  combination  of  the  two  and  formed  in  a  similar 
manner. 

On  the  22nd,  when  near  Cape  Golan,  Aldrich  re- 
marks : — 

'  While  camping  I  dug  down,  and  found  the  snow  to 
vary  from  one  to  four  and-a-half  feet  in  thickness.  At 
the  latter  depth  I  came  to  what  I  at  first  thought  was 
land,  but  which  turned  out  afterwards  to  be  a  thin 
layer  or  covering  of  soil  or  mud  lying  on  top  of  the 
hard  ice.  This  may  possibly  have  been  washed  down 
from  the  hills.  We  are  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
shore,  which  slopes  very  gradually  up  from  the  ice. 
From  the  great  changes  in  the  depth  of  the  snow,  the 
floe  would  appear  to  be  of  a  round,  hummocky  nature, 
similar  to  a  "blue  top,"  and  from  the  absence  of 
hummocks  or  floebergs  probably  never  breaks  up. 

'  I  have  called  the  coast-line  "  apparent,"  as  it  is 
difficult  to  determine  where  the  land  begins  and  the 
ice  ends. 

'  We  now  and  again  come  across  a  crack,  generally 
about  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  wide  ;  these,  as  a  rule, 
extend  in  a  north  and  south  direction.  We  sounded 
the  depth  of  one  and  found  it  to  be  fourteen  feet. 


1876  LIEUT.   GIFFARD   PARTS   COMPANY.  13 

We  could  trace  snow  ten  to  eleven  feet  down,  a  great 
deal  of  which  was  probably  drift.' 

On  the  25th  GifFard  and  his  crew,  after  completing 
the  other  sledge  to  forty-four  days'  provisions,  parted 
company,  to  return  to  the  '  Alert.'  On  the  last  day  of 
their  advance  Aldrich  writes  : — 

'  No  improvement  in  the  travelling,  and  the  sledge 
came  to  a  dead  stop  over  and  over  again  in  the  deep 
soft  snow,  and  this  notwithstanding  the  desire  of  all  to 
get  as  far  as  possible,  before  parting  company.  Had 
anyone  been  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  unacquainted 
with  the  method  of  progression  in  this  detestable 
travelling,  they  would  very  probably  have  been  as- 
tonished at  the  constant  shouts  of  "  One,  two,  three, 
haul ! ''  varied  by  "  Main  topsail,  haul !  "  etc.,  to  relieve 
the  monotony  of  the  same  "  old  yarn."  However,  we 
had  the  whole  country  to  ourselves,  and  were  at 
perfect  liberty  to  expend  as  much  of  our  breath  in 
shouting  as  we  could  spare,  without  fear  of  awakening 
or  frightening  anybody.  Halted  for  luncheon  at  noon, 
up  to  which  time  we  had  been  steering  inshore  to  find 
a  place  to  leave  the  depot.  The  whole  of  the  land 
was  covered  in  snow,  without  the  slightest  sign  of  a 
brow  or  other  convenient  spot,  and  we  therefore  altered 
our  course  parallel  to  the  coast. 

6  After  lunch  we  proceeded  till  4.30  P.M.,  and  then 
left  the  "  Poppie's  "  cook  behind  to  make  tea  ready  for 
his  sledgemates  by  their  return.  Halted  a  little  after 
5  P.M.,  when,  after  an  exchange  of  hearty  cheers  and 
good  wishes,  Lieutenant  GifFard  and  his  party  took 
their  departure,  and  left  us  to  our  solitary  journey.' 
For  the  next  seven  days,  when  Cape  Columbia 


14  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  APRIL 

was  reached,  Aldrich's  sledge  being  fully  laden,  the 
daily  advance  was  very  slow,  as  usual  in  similar 
journeys,  and  the  soft  snow  entailed  very  severe  labour 
on  the  crew.  Two  days  afterwards  when  passing  Cape 
James  Good,  named  after  the  petty  officer,  captain  of 
the  sledge,  Aldrich  remarks  : — 

'  The  men  are  all  very  much  done  up,  the  fact 
being  that,  light  loads  or  heavy  loads,  this  thick  snow 
takes  it  out  of  one  tremendously,  and  the  constant 
standing  pulls  shake  one  to  pieces. 

'  The  double  journeys  are  most  discouraging  to  the 
men,  and  their  looks  of  disappointment  when,  after 
nine  hours'  labour,  they  find  themselves  only  two  and 
a-half  to  three  miles  from  where  they  started,  show 
how  much  more  they  would  do  if  they  could.  The 
air  is  very  cold,  and  the  sun  very  warm.  The  ther- 
mometer hanging  on  my  chest  registered  minus  12° ; 
when  on  my  back,  minus  30°. 

6  Half  our  daily  journey  is  necessarily  done  with 
the  sun  in  our  faces,  causing  a  few  slight  cases  of 
snow-blindness.' 

The  29th  was  the  last  day  on  the  outward  journey 
that  they  were  obliged  to  advance  with  half-loads  at  a 
time  ;  they  were  then  a  few  miles  east  of  Cape  Columbia. 

Aldrich  observes : — 

'  A  great  deal  of  mirage  to  the  north-west ;  its 
effects  in  some  places  led  us  to  think  there  were  very 
extensive  pools  of  water  out  on  the  heavy  floes.  It 
required  careful  watching  for  some  minutes  to  dispel 
the  illusion.  The  line  of  hummocks  is  visible  three 
and- a-half  to  four  miles  distant.  I  dug  down  through 
the  snow,  which  I  found  to  be  exactly  four  feet  deep, 


1876  WESTERN   SLEDGE   JOURNEY.  15 

getting  much  harder  and  more  compact  below  the 
surface  than  before.  Between  it  and  the  ice  was  a 
space  of  over  two  inches.  The  latter  gave  me  the 
impression  of  being  young,  and  not  of  the  blue-topped 
description.  Lines  of  sastrugi  north-west  and  south- 
east, which  is  about  parallel  to  the  line  of  hummocks. 

'  The  temperature  of  the  air  while  travelling  was 
minus  15°.  When  encamped  at  mid-day  it  rose  to  40° 
on  the  sunny  side  of  the  tent  inside.  Positive  luxury  ! 

6  30£/i. — The  north-west  wind  died  away  in  the 
night.  Started  at  6.50  A.M.  with  the  whole  load.  The 
sledge  does  not  appear  to  get  much  lighter ;  I  suspect 
the  increase  in  weight  of  robes  and  bags,  &c.  (small  as  it 
is  compared  with  autumn  travelling),  fully  compensates 
for  the  provisions  consumed  to  the  present,  and  that  it 
is  as  heavy,  if  not  heavier,  than  when  we  left  the  ship. 
However,  we  all  pulled  with  a  will,  and  were  en- 
couraged by  the  travelling  improving  at  almost  every 
step.  Camped  at  3.30  P.M.  Made  good  three  and 
a-half  miles. 

4  This  was  a  short  march,  partly  on  account  of 
shifting  our  travelling  hours  still  farther  into  night 
travelling,  and  partly  on  account  of  its  being  Sunday. 
My  men  are  all  in  capital  spirits ;  the  improved  travel- 
ling, the  warmer  weather,  and  prospects  of  getting  on, 
all  tending  to  a  rapid  rise  in  the  "  social  barometer," 
which,  in  our  small  community,  is  as  desirable  as 
welcome.  I  read  the  Evening  Service  after  supper. 

'  The  Sergeant-Major  has  just  shown  me  a  very 
ugly-looking  red  patch  or  blotch  just  above  the  ankle  ; 
the  limb  is  slightly  swollen. 

'  May  1st.—  The  questionable  pleasure  of  havino-  a 


16         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        MAY 

man  dancing  on  you  when  brushing  down  the  con- 
densation collected  on  the  inside  of  the  tent  was 
dispensed  with  this  morning,  there  being  none  to  brush 
down.  Under  weigh  at  3.20  A.M.,  got  abreast  Cape 
Aldrich  at  4  A.M.,  and  then  steered  for  a  bare  patch 
on  the  brow  of  the  low  spit  which  runs  off  the  cape, 
and  nearly  due  north  of  it,  and  reached  the  foot  of  the 
ascent  at  5.20  A.M. 

'Found  some  difficulty  in  securing  the  depot,  as 
there  was  not  a  stone  to  be  had  ;  the  ground  was  very 
hard,  and  composed  of  soil  and  very  small  shingle, 
with  here  and  there  a  thin  covering  of  ice,  pro- 
bably caused  by  the  snow  melting  in  the  sun  and 
freezing  again  before  it  could  sink  into  the  hard  frozen 
ground.  On  this  mixture  the  pickaxe  made  but  very 
little  impression,  and  it  took  four  of  us,  working  in 
spells,  two  and  a-half  hours  to  get  a  hole  ten  inches  in 
depth  and  large  enough  to  place  the  bottom  of  the 
gutta-percha  case  in,  wrapped  up  in  an  extra  coverlet. 
"  Treboggined  "  down  the  hill  on  the  empty  sledge, 
packed  sledge,  lunched,  and  started  at  9.15,  being 
lighter  by  about  300  Ibs.  We  were  not  at  all  sorry  to 
get  under  weigh  again  ;  securing  the  depot  was  too  cool 
to  be  pleasant.  Temperature  minus  15°.  Wind,  force 
6,  from  the  N.W.,  and  a  cutting  drift.  We  now  had 
a  very  heavy  drag  up  the  low  spit,  which  extends  from 
Cape  Aldrich  for  one  or  two  miles  towards  the  north, 
and  curves  to  the  eastward.  We  reached  the  top  at 
11  A.M.,  and  were  disappointed  to  find  we  could  only 
see  land  five  miles  ahead,  bearing  about  W.  by  N., 
and  terminating  in  a  bold  high  cape,  since  named 


1876  CAPE   COLUMBIA.  17 

"  Cape  Columbia,"  and  which  proved  to  be  the  most 
northern  point  attained. 

'  Travelling  across  hard  sastrugi,  which  ran  more  in 
line  with  the  land,  and  patches  of  level  snow,  as  hard 
and  nearly  as  slippery  as  ice.  Over  this  we  flew  along, 
and  our  spirits  rose  as  rapidly  as  ever  they  did  on  a 
good  lead  opening  up  north  for  the  ship,  on  her  way 
up  Smith  Sound. 

'  As  we  drew  near  Cape  Columbia  we  opened  out 
a  conical  hill,  having  the  appearance  of  an  island, 
distant  about  thirty  miles,  and  immediately  afterwards 
a  succession  of  capes  or  bluffs.  The  former  was  in 
transit  with  Cape  Columbia  N.  16°  E.  by  compass,  the 
extreme  of  the  latter  N.  14°  E.,  and  about  twenty 
miles  off ;  so  that  the  coast-line  runs  as  nearly  due  west 
as  possible.  The  hummocks  continue  to  the  N.W., 
and  get  farther  from  the  land. 

'  Off  Cape  Columbia,  at  a  distance  of  about  100 
yards  from  the  shore,  the  ice  is  of  the  older  type,  but 
has  been  merely  pressed  up  against  the  fringe  of  loose 
stone  and  rubble  which  surrounds  the  cape,  without 
being  broken  into  hummocks,  but  leaving  large  cracks 
and  fractures.  Inside  the  fringe  above  mentioned,  is  a 
sheet  of  hard  and  perfectly  smooth  ice,  but  extending 
only  for  a  very  short  distance.  We  reached  the  cape 
at  3  P.M.,  and  camped  on  the  old  floe,  just  outside  of  the 
cracks. 

4  From  observation  to-day  I  place  the  cape  in  lati- 
tude 83-7  N.,  longitude  70-10  W. 

'  At  about  two  and-a-half  miles  to  the  eastward  of 
Cape  Columbia,  and  about  200  feet  above  the  ice  level, 
the  snow  appears  to  have  fallen  or  slipped,  leaving  a 

VOL.    II.  C 


18         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        MAY 

perpendicular  wall  some  hundreds  of  yards  in  length, 
and  of  considerable  height.  I  at  first  thought  it  was 
a  tremendous  snow-drift ;  originally,  perhaps,  it  may 
have  been,  but  now  it  is  either  compressed  snow  or 
bluish  ice,  and  resembles  the  face  of  a  glacier. 

'  As  the  weather  gives  every  promise  of  being  fine, 
I  intend  remaining  off  Cape  Columbia  to-morrow,  and 
to  ascend  Cooper  Key  Peak,  from  which  we  shall  get 
a  splendid  view.  The  whole  crew  are  so  anxious  to 
come,  I  told  them  to  draw  lots  for  one  to  remain  with 
the  tent ;  poor  Doidge  is  much  down  on  his  luck, 
having  been  "  elected  "  to  stay  behind.  The  Sergeant- 
Major's  leg  still  gives  him  no  pain,  but  the  angry  red 
colour  has  spread  considerably ;  I  do  not  like  the  look 
of  it  at  all.  I  have  given  him  turpentine  liniment  to 
rub  in,  which  he  uses  with  a  will. 

'  '2nd. — During  breakfast  a  fog-bank  appeared  on 
the  N.W.  horizon,  and  it  clouded  over ;  the  wind 
freshened,  and  shortly  afterwards  the  increasing  mist 
rendered  any  attempt  to  go  up  the  peak  useless.  We 
were  all  very  disappointed,  but  we  could  not  afford 
time  to  wait  for  the  weather  to  clear.  Under  weigh  at 
3.20  A.M.  Temperature  minus  10°. 

'  After  travelling  a  short  distance  over  the  old  ice, 
which  was  covered  with  level  but  spongy-looking  snow, 
we  got  on  to  excellent  ice  some  forty  or  fifty  yards 
broad,  over  which  the  sledge  followed  me  at  a  rate  of 
about  three  miles  an  hour.  This,  however,  only  lasted 
for  half-a-mile,  when  we  came  to  moderately  hard 
sastrugi,  running  parallel  to  the  land,  with  a  little  soft 
snow  on  top.  By  this  time  the  fog  had  come  down 
and  rendered  all  things  and  everything  of  no  colour. 


1870  ICE- WAVES.  19 

I  was  about  two  miles  ahead  of  the  sledge,  but  could 
see  nothing  and  do  nothing,  so  turned  back  and  sought 
refuge  in  the  drag-belt  and  the  company  of  my  sledge 
crew.  Steered  by  sastrugi,  which  I  had  observed  ran 
directly  from  the  point  for  which  we  wanted  to  shape 
a  course.  With  a  very  little  care  this  plan  answered 
admirably,  and  enabled  us  to  go  on  knowing  we  were 
losing  no  ground.' 

On  the  7th  the  camp  was  pitched  a  mile  east  of 
Cape  Alexandra.  Aldrich  writes  : — '  We  crossed  a 
fox  track  and  a  few  lemming  tracks  to-day.  These 
are  the  only  signs  of  life  we  have  come  across  for  a 
long  time.  The  land  is  entirely  covered  in  snow, 
except  a  few  bare  places  on  the  face  of  the  cliffs. 

'  The  health  of  the  crew  is  very  good,  except  stiff 
legs,  which  are  pretty  general,  and  only  to  be  expected. 
The  two  worst  are  the  Sergeant-Major  and  Jas.  Doidge.' 
After  passing  Cape  Albert  Edward,  Aldrich  refers 
to  the  extremely  low  and  level  character  of  the  shore, 
and  describes  a  remarkable  formation  of  what  he  desig- 
nates '  ice-waves.' 

6  Several  low  ridges  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  high, 
and  varying  from  a  few  hundred  yards  to  about  a  mile 
in  length,  show  up  in  front  of  the  cliffs.  Their  general 
direction  is  S.E.  and  N.W.,  hence  on  the  east  coast 
of  the  bay  they  extend  at,  or  nearly  at,  right  angles 
from  the  land,  while  to  the  south-westward  they  are 
nearly  parallel  with  it.  I  imagine  these  ridges  are 
composed  of  hard  ice  under  the  snow,  though  I  had 
no  means  of  penetrating  it  to  a  sufficient  depth  to  find 
whether  or  no  land  lay  underneath. 

'In  passing  between  Ward  Hunt  Island  and  the 

c2 


20         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        MAY 

main  land,  we  crossed  a  ridge  about  thirty  feet  high, 
and  half-a-mile  in  width,  which  extends  for  a  mile  from 
about  the  middle  of  the  south  shore  of  the  island. 
Thinking  it  was  land,  I  dug  down  through  three  feet 
of  snow,  and  came  to  ice.  Similar  looking  ridges 
extend  to  the  eastward  and  westward. 

4  St/i. — A  perfect  morning.  Temperature  minus 
15°.  Under  weigh  at  3.20.  Crossed  another  ice -wave  ; 
dug  down,  and  came  to  ice  under  three  feet  of  hard 
and  compact  snow.  Travelling  very  good,  though  not 
very  slippery.  I  cannot  make  out  where  the  land 
ends  and  ice  begins ;  a  second  time  to-day  I  sounded 
with  our  shovel,  to  find  ice  on  a  slope  not  fifty  yards 
from  where  bare  stones  were  visible.  There  is  no 
crack,  but  the  shelving  land"  appears  to  blend  with  the 
ice,  which  rises  in  the  form  of  a  roller,  with  a  second 
roller  behind  it,  exactly  as  water  rolls  on  a  beach  after 
a  breeze  of  wind.  The  line  of  hummocks  is  between 
five  and  six  miles  off,  and  does  not  seem  to  differ  from 
those  farther  east.  Floes  exceedingly  small,  and  the 
fringes  between  them  very  close  and  numerous. 

'  After  lunch  we  crossed  two  cracks,  which  extend 
northward,  and  look  fresh.  Got  on  to  rising  ground 
in  an  hour.  In  walking  ahead  I  came  to  what 
appeared  like  a  ravine  in  our  path.  Altered  course 
down  an  incline  to  clear  it,  then  began  a  gradual 
ascent  up  low  land,  which  extends  two  to  three  miles 
from  the  hills,  and  in  the  form  of  rollers  like  the  ice- 
waves  before  mentioned.  We  dragged  up  hill  till  2  P.M., 
when  we  camped.  I  walked  on  about  two  miles  after 
camping ;  the  ascent  being  so  gradual,  I  got  scarcely 
any  better  view  for  so  doing.  The  hummocks  appear 


1876  WESTERN   SLEDGE  JOURNEY.  21 

to  be  closing  in  towards  the  land,  and  promise  to  be 
very  near  the  next  cape  or  point. 

'  The  ground  round  the  depot  is  beautiful-looking 
soil,  with  small  shingle,  last  year's  saxifrage  and 
poppy,  and  this  year's  moss,  which  latter  was  of 
such  a  brilliant  green  we  all  thoroughly  enjoyed 
looking  at  it.  It  did  our  eyes  good.  A  solitary 
lemming  track  was  the  only  sign  of  animal  life.  The 
country  gives  no  promise  of  game  whatever,  although 
I  had  a  good  look  all  about  while  the  depot  was  being 
secured. 

'  9 th. — Under  weigh  at  3.25.  Continued  our  ascent 
parallel  to,  and  about  one  and-a-half  miles  from  the 
hills,  until  nearly  lunch-time,  when  we  got  a  good 
view  of  the  distant  land.  Afterwards  we  proceeded 
along  level  and  very  fair  travelling,  over  moderately 
hard  snow,  until  at  10.30  A.M.  we  came  to  a  steep 
descent  of  a  good  200  feet,  the  result  of  all  our 
uphill  work,  which  we  had  hoped  would  have  sloped 
down  gradually  instead.  It  was  necessary  to  back 
the  sledge  down ;  the  men  sitting  on  the  snow,  hauling 
back  on  the  drag-ropes.  When  two-thirds  of  the 
way  down,  the  men  became  a  little  too  confident, 
and  the  whole  apparatus  took  charge.  Fortunately, 
nothing  caught  the  runners,  and  no  harm  resulted,  but 
the  astonishment  which  its  capers  caused  the  crew  will 
probably  induce  them  to  be  more  careful  on  similar 
occasions. 

'  We  now  crossed  over  a  series  of  undulating  rollers 
of  lowland,  which  were  parallel  to  one  another,  and 
extended  to  the  northward  about  two  miles  from  the 
hills.  The  travelling  during  the  latter  part  of  the  clay 


22  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  MAY 

has  not  been  so  good,  the  sastrugi  which  extends  east 
and  west  being  very  deep  and  rugged. 

4  Although  tired,  everyone  was  loth  to  go  into  the 
tent,  the  sun  being  warm  enough  to  admit  of  a  com- 
fortable pipe  outside. 

'  The  ground  over  which  we  have  lately  travelled, 
rising  as  it  does  gradually  from  the  eastward,  and 
terminating  in  a  steep  descent  to  the  westward, 
may  be  worthy  of  observation,  as  also  the  existence 
of  the  numerous  ridges  and  rollers  of  land  and  ice, 
which  abound  hereabouts.  The  snow-drifts  about 
Cape  Stephenson  are  very  heavy,  and  of  considerable 
depth.  The  cape  is  about  300  feet  high,  and  the  hills 
close  to  the  eastward  of  it  range  from  400  to  600 
feet.' 

Although  an  outbreak  of  scurvy  was  not  then  an- 
ticipated, the  unsatisfactory  condition  of  the  men  was 
causing  Aldrich  much  anxiety.  On  the  10th  he 
writes : — 

'  The  men  are  nearly  all  suffering  a  great  deal  with 
their  unfortunate  legs,  which  appear  to  get  worse 
every  day.  This  we  all  feel  to  be  very  disappointing, 
as  it  affects  the  journey,  and  although  stiff  limbs  were 
expected,  everyone  thought  the  stiffness  would  wear  off 
in  time.  It  seems,  however,  inclined  to  hang  on,  and 
sets  at  defiance  all  the  limited  medical  skill  we  possess 
among  us,  and  to  scorn  succumbing  to  turpentine  lini- 
ment, bandages,  good  "  elbow  grease,"  etc.  The  legs 
get  a  little  more  comfortable  after  being  a  short  time 
under  weigh ;  but,  somehow,  the  men  do  not  appear 
up  to  the  mark.  Ayles  and  I  are  the  only  two  who 
eat  all  the  pemmican  we  can  get.  I  should  like  the 


1876  WESTERN   SLEDGE   JOURNEY.  23 

men  to  have  a  rest,  but  too  much  time  was  lost  in 
the  outset  to  admit  of  it. 

'  Day  by  day  we  look  forward  to  the  land  either 
going  north  or  south  ;  but  hitherto  we  have  been 
travelling  nothing  but  west,  or  very  little  southerly  of 
it.  Camped  at  2  P.M.  about  two  miles  from  Cape 
Richards. 

'  The  line  of  hummocks  appears  to  be  nearing  the 
land,  so  we  are  looking  out  for  some  decided  alteration 
in  the  trend  of  the  coast-line.  When  we  first  left  the 
ship  our  hopes  pointed  to  a  north-running  coast ;  now, 
as  our  outward  journey  approaches  an  end,  we  shall 
rejoice  to  see  it  go  either  way,  except  east  and 
west. 

'  Ilth. — The  travelling  is  excellent,  smooth,  level, 
and  with  the  soft  snow  only  two  to  three  inches 
deep. 

'  At  noon  reached  the  old  floe,  which  is  pressed 
up  against  the  land,  broken  in  several  places  by  cracks, 
and  has  forced  up  small  ridges  and  heaps  of  stones  and 
shingle,  but  without  forming  a  single  hummock. 

'  A  short  distance  outside  us  are  a  few  isolated 
hummocks  or  floebergs,  with  heavy  snow-drifts  around 
them ;  but  the  actual  line  of  hummocky  ice  is  still 
about  two  miles  from  the  shore.  We  found  the  travel- 
ling very  fair,  and  skirted  along  the  edge  of  the  shelv- 
ing land. 

'  12th. — Temperature  plus  12°.  Strong  wind  from 
the  south-west.  A  continuance  of  yesterday's  disagree- 
able weather.  Thick,  and  a  stinging  drift  in  our  faces. 
Our  travelling  was  none  the  better  from  the  entire 
absence  of  light  and  shadow.  Proceeding  a  short 


24         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        MAT 

distance  along  the  floe  of  yesterday,  we  began  to  round 
the  low  land  in  the  direction  of  the  cape,  which  we 
saw  now  and  then.  We  soon  arrived  on  some  deeply- 
scored  and  hard  sastrugi,  on  which  we  found  it  impos- 
sible to  make  certain  of  our  footing,  and  the  way  we 
all  fell  and  tumbled  about  would  have  been  ludicrous 
had  it  not  been  so  tiresome.  This  work  was  not  at  all 
good  for  the  "  game  legs,"  as  the  men  call  them  ;  the 
Sergeant,  Good,  and  Doidge  suffered  especially.  We 
reached  Cape  Fanshawe  Martin  about  four  hours  after 
starting, 

'  A  perpendicular  wall  of  ice,  between  fifteen  and 
twenty  feet  high,  and  some  seventy  yards  in  length, 
occupies  the  dip  between  the  land  rising  to  the  cape 
and  the  shelving  land  round  which  we  had  travelled. 
This  looks  like  the  .face  of  a  miniature  glacier,  and 
is  situated  about  thirty  or  forty  yards  from  the  floe. 
Fog  prevented  our  seeing  anything  but  the  wall 
itself. 

'  After  rounding  Cape  Fanshawe  Martin  we  crossed 
the  tail  of  a  low  spit,  which  extends  about  a  mile  to 
the  northward,  and  followed  the  trend  of  the  coast, 
which  from  here  was  about  south-west  (true).  Halted 
for  lunch  at  8.20  A.M.,  and  pitched  the  tent. 

'  I  picked  up  the  leaf  of  a  willow  to-day,  which 
shows  there  must  be  bare  places  somewhere ;  but  the 
snow-drifts  in  this  neighbourhood  are  tremendous. 

'Though  the  line  of  hummocks  is  somewhat  closer 
in,  there  appears  to  be  a  great  similarity  in  the  condi- 
tion and  quality  of  the  ice  here  and  off  Cape  Columbia. 
Between  the  two  capes  is  a  distance  of  nearly  eighty 
miles,  and  about  midway  between  the  two  lies  Ward 


1876  WESTERN   SLEDGE   JOURNEY.  25 

Hunt  Island.  The  coast-line  is  broken  by  three  bays, 
two  of  which  are  of  considerable  extent ;  and  off  the 
points,  and  now  and  again  for  a  few  continuous  miles, 
are  projecting  low  spits  and  ice  ridges.  The  hummocks 
do  not  come  in  close  to  Ward  Hunt  Island,  its  northern 
face  being  protected  apparently  by  one  of  the  usual 
fenders. 

'13^. — Temperature  6°.  The  same  persistent 
head  wind,  and  a  fog  which  would  rival  the  densest 
specimen  ever  experienced  in  London  on  a  November 
day.  The  crew  are  less  lively  in  spirits  than  usual ;  I 
fancy  the  miserable  weather,  their  stiff  legs,  and  extra 
wear  and  tear  due  to  so  much  fog,  all  combine  to 
subdue  them  a  little.  I  should  like  to  give  them  a 
rest,  but  they  are  as  anxious  as  I  am  to  get  on.  Under 
weigh  at  3.30  A.M.  Weather  cleared  a  little.  Steered 
to  cross  the  usual  incline,  which  runs  from  Cape 
Bicknor,  the  extreme  point  now  in  sight.  I  remained 
behind  to  get  a  sketch  of  the  land,  &c.,  and  on  over- 
taking the  sledge  found  it  making  but  slow  progress. 
The  Sergeant  and  Doidge  struggle  manfully  on ;  but 
they  are  not  up  to  much,  and  there  are  a  few  more 
not  much  better.  The  actual  weight  on  the  sledge  is 
nothing  comparatively,  but  it  is  the  inability  to  walk 
rather  than  drag  well  which  impedes  the  party.  We 
in  time  came  to  a  piece  of  down-hill,  on  our  descent  to 
another  bay  or  inlet,  a  portion  of  which  easy  travelling 
I  reserved  for  to-morrow,  to  ease  the  stiff  legs  at 
starting.  Shall  make  a  short  march  to-morrow,  in 
the  hopes  it  may  do  the  men  good.  It  will  be  their 
first  spell  since  leaving  the  ship. 

'  Uth. — Boused  cook  at  3  A.M.,  having  given  all 


26         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        MAT 

hands  an  extra  two  hours  and  a-half  s  sleep.  Wind 
gone,  but  the  dull  leaden  weather  remains.  A  Sunday 
morning,  with  a  desultory  conversation  going  on  while 
waiting  for  pemmican,  now  of  England,  now  of  fresh 
food  and  vegetables — a  pretty  constant  topic — and  an 
occasional  lamentation  as  to  the  wretched  state  of  the 
legs,  with  an  expectation  that  they  may  be  the  only 
cases,  and  the  fear  that  in  consequence  their  work  will 
not  bear  comparison  with  that  performed  by  the 
other  sledges  and  former  Arctic  travellers.  About 
6  A.M.  the  mist  cleared  off  gradually,  and  the  sun  burst 
forth  after  an  absence  of  several  days. 

'  Under  weigh  at  6.15  A.M.,  and  the  sledge  went 
merrily  down  the  hill ;  but  I  repented  my  decision  of 
last  night  to  keep  easy  work  for  a  start,  for  the  sledge 
was  too  lively  for  the  unfortunate  cripples,  some  of 
whom  were  in  positive  agony.  After  proceeding  about 
a  mile  we  reached  the  level  floe  of  a  bay  seven  to 
eight  miles  deep,  with  steep  cliffy  shores  and  hills 
rising  from  400  to  1,000  feet  in  height.  These  hills, 
like  all  those  we  have  met  with,  do  not  run  in  ranges, 
but  are  scattered  irregularly  about,  and  separated  and 
cut  up  by  ravines  in  all  directions.  The  south-west 
point  is  low  and  shelving,  and  just  open  of  it,  about 
twenty  miles  distant,  shows  out  another  cape,  which  I 
have  pointed  out  to  the  men  as  the  spot  from  which 
I  shall  be  perfectly  satisfied  to  turn  back. 

'  The  bay  we  are  crossing  is  Milne  Bay  of  the 
chart.  The  travelling  would  be  very  good  were  it  not 
for  frequent  soft  patches  of  snow,  into  which  we  some- 
times sink  above  our  knees.  A  snow-bunting  flew 
within  twenty  yards  of  the  sledge,  and  is  the  first 


1876  THE   PICKAXE   LEFT   BEH1N1X  27 

living  creature  we  have  set  eyes  on  since  leaving  the 
"  Poppies." 

'  15th. — Temperature  minus  6°.  Bright  sunshine 
and  calm.  Everything  hoisted  up  to  dry.  Travelling 
a  little  better  than  yesterday.  Misty  about  the  horizon 
iceward.  * 

'  On  camping  in  Yelverton  Bay,  a  very  fair  journey, 
the  pickaxe  was  found  to  have  been  left  behind  at  the 
last  encampment,  where  it  had  been  used  for  securing 
the  tent  guy  to.  I  prepared  for  a  walk  back,  but  the 
crew  all  wanted  to  go  instead,  so  I  ultimately  arranged 
to  take  Ayles  with  me  to-morrow,  while  the  sledge 
goes,  on ;  we  should  pick  them  up  by  camping- time. 
The  men  have,  I  think,  been  all  the  better  for  their 
rest  yesterday.  No  snow-blindness  except  my  own — 
my  eyes  being  extremely  painful. 

'  16^A. — Gave  Good  orders  to  take  the  sledge  on, 
with  six  hands,  for  the  extreme  point ;  proceed  the 
usual  eleven  hours,  or,  in  the  event  of  fog,  camp. 

'  Ayles  and  I  started  off  for  the  pickaxe  with  our 
hmcheons.  Arrived  at  previous  encampment  after 
four  and-a-half  hours'  walking ;  from  the  travelling 
and  pace  we  had  come  I  put  it  at  ten  statute  miles. 
Just  as  we  got  the  pickaxe  a  puff  of  wind  came  from 
the  north-east,  and  a  fog  bank  to  iceward  made  us 
hurry  on  our  way  back.  The  wind  soon  increased  to 
a  moderate  gale,  with  a  very  high  drift,  which 
threatened  to  destroy  our  friend  the  sledge  tracks. 
About  an  hour  afterwards  we  lost  sight  of  the  extreme 
of  land,  so  I  concluded  Good  would  camp. 

'  Eeached  our  morning  starting-point  in  nine  hours, 
where  we  halted,  standing  with  our  backs  to  the  wind, 


28  VOYAGE   TO   THE  POLAR   SEA.  MAT 

for  five  minutes  to  eat  some  pemmican,  biscuit,  &c. 
Two  hours  afterwards  we  passed  their  luncheon-place, 
and  then  found  they  had  gone  on  under  sail,  before  a 
wind  which  was  now  blowing  a  fresh  gale,  with  tre- 
mendous drift.  My  companion  began  to  show  signs  of 
fatigue  (which  with  Ayles  means  a  great  deal),  but  we 
tramped  on  before  the  gale  at  a  rattling  pace. 

6  We  followed  the  meandering  sledge  track  for 
nearly  another  two  hours,  with  comparative  ease,  after 
which  we  lost  it  very  frequently  from  its  being  entirely 
obliterated  for  yards  at  a  time.  Our  plan  now  was 
for  Ayles  to  stand  still,  while  I  walked  round  in  a 
circle  until  we  found  the  track  again.  We  had  almost 
prepared  ourselves  for  an  uncomfortable  lodging  in 
the  snow,  by  the  aid  of  our  friendly  pickaxe,  when 
the  tent  came  in  sight,  about  fifty  yards  distant.  Just 
as  we  saw  it  a  gun  was  fired,  and  the  boatswain's 
mate's  pipe  sounded  above  and  among  an  unearthly 
yelling,  and  the  row  of  the  wind — a  continuation  of 
the  programme  they  had  been  assiduously  carrying  out 
in  case  we  might  be  passing. 

6  We  arrived  after  an  absence  of  fourteen  hours ; 
and  never  were  men  more  rejoiced,  I  believe,  than 
they  were  when  they  saw  us.  Although  they  had 
been  camped  for  some  three  hours,  there  they  were, 
seated  anyhow,  without  having  shifted  or  eaten  any- 
thing, and  as  anxious  as  they  could  be.  The  cook 
bustled  out  into  the  drift  and  gale,  only  too  glad  to 
have  the  chance  of  giving  us  all  our  supper ;  and  hot 
tea  and  pemmican  soon,  put  all  to-rights.  After  a 
short  yarn  as  to  the  day's  proceedings,  w^e  rolled  our- 
selves up  and  slumbered  peacefully,  and  fully  appre- 


1876  WESTERN   SLEDGE   JOURNEY.  29 

elating  the  comforts  of  our  Arctic  tent.  The  sail  had 
driven  the  sledge  very  fast — in  fact,  too  fast  for  some 
'of  them.  They  proceeded  till  the  regular  time  was  up, 
having  made  good  (to  judge  by  our  walking)  ten 
miles. 

4  nth. — Temperature  12°.  Blowing  a  whole  north- 
east gale  all  night ;  so  although  Ayles  and  I  were  late 
returning  yesterday,  we  have  lost  no  time.  The  porch 
was  completely  filled  with  drift,  which  formed  a  wall 
quite  three  feet  thick,  through  which  the  cook  and 
I  burrowed  out  with  a  shovel.  The  drift  was  still 
blowing  some  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  above  the  floe, 
hiding  everything  a  few  yards  distant,  though  a  bright 
sun  was  trying  to  penetrate  through,  and  there  appeared 
plenty  of  blue  sky  overhead.  The  sledge  was  all  but 
buried. 

'  After  half  a  pipe  in  the  tent,  digging  out  sledge, 
&c.,  made  sail,  but  the  gale  broke  half  an  hour  after, 
as  suddenly  as  it  began,  and  the  men  were  not  sorry 
to  resume  their  drag  belts.  The  drift  has  made  the 
travelling  soft  and  heavy  in  places,  but  in  others  it  is 
as  hard  as  ever.  It  is  worth  observing  that  in  no  case 
did  bare  ice  show  out,  which  leads  me  to  think  the 
floes  in*  the  bays  are  not  round-topped,  or  being  so, 
the  *  hillocks  are  small  and  the  snow  very  deep  on 
them.  Another  thing  is  the  entire  absence  of  even 
isolated  hummocks,  which  would  seem  to  indicate 
either  that  the  water  is  too  shallow  to  admit  of  their 
being  drifted  in,  or  that  the  ice  in  the  bays  is  of  great 
thickness,  and  the  influence  of  tide  so  little  felt  that  it 
does  not  break  up  from  year  to  year. 

6 18//i. — Taking  into  consideration  the  state  of  the 


30  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA. 

crew,  and  the  quantity  of  provisions  remaining,  I  think 
it  advisable  to  turn  back  for  the  ship  to-day.  The 
biscuit  remaining  is  five  days'  full  allowance,  which 
with  a  healthy  crew  would  be  ample,  but  looking,  as  I 
must,  to  marches  not  much  better  than  we  have  been 
performing  lately,  it  will  have  to  last  ten  days. 

'  With  this  in  view,  I  left  the  tent  pitched,  and  Mann 
(who  is  not  fit  to  march,  but  better  than  last  night), 
to  look  after  the  gear,  while  with  the  sledge,  cooking 
gear,  luncheons,  pickaxe,  &c.,  the  rest  of  us  went  on 
for  a  half-journey  to  try  and  reach  a  place  for  building 
a  cairn,  and  to  get  a  little  more  extended  view  of  the 
coast-line.  A  very  clear  and  beautiful  day.  After 
seeing  Mann  comfortable,  and  leaving  him  means  of 
cooking  his  tea,  I  soon  overtook  Doidge  and  the 
Sergeant  limping  along  several  hundred  yards  in  rear 
of  the  sledge.  I  told  them  they  had  better  go  back, 
but  this  they  begged  off,  and  continued  their  painful 
journey.  Overtaking  the  sledge  I  walked  ahead  up 
a  steady  incline,  which  began  about  two  miles  from 
the  camp.  After  walking  some  four  miles  I  came  to 
the  conclusion  there  was  no  cape  at  all,  but  that  the 
coast-line  trended  round  more  to  the  southward  after 
clearing  Yelverton  Bay.  The  land  was  covered  deeply 
in  snow,  and  there  was  no  place  within  reach  of 
the  party  at  all  suitable  for  building  a  cairn. 

6 1  was  now  200  feet  above  the  sea  or  ice-level, 
and  had  a  very  good  and  careful  look  all  round.  No 
land  was  visible,  except  the  coast  along  which  we  were 
travelling,  my  view  of  which  extended  about  seven 
miles  farther  than  our  position,  the  trend  being  gradually 
southward  and  westward. 


1876 


FARTHEST   POINT   REACHED. 


31 


'  The  line  of  hummocks  was  about  four  miles  off, 
and  appeared  to  incline  slightly  to  the  southward  in 
the  distance.  The  land  itself  is  not  high,  and  there 
being  no  cliffs,  not  a  speck  bare  of  snow  was  visible. 
The  hills  sloped  gradually  from  the  ice,  and  the 
ridge  on  which  we  were  at  the  extreme  of  our  journey 
was  a  portion  of  undulating  low  land,  attached  to  the 
coast,  and  continuing  south-west  with  it. 

'  I  turned  back  and  met  the  sledge.  Halted  for 
grog  and  biscuit.  Hoisted  the  Union  Jack,  and  drank 
Her  Majesty's  health. 

'-  After  lunch  we  sounded,  and  came  to  solid  ice, 


SOUNDING   FOB   LAND. 


under  five  feet  of  snow,  but  from  the  height  and  extent 
of  the  ridges,  I  should  imagine  land  lay  underneath. 

'  Looking  back  on  to  the  bay,  I  observed  a  series  of 
ice  rollers,  two  of  which  we  crossed  over  yesterday. 

'  The  remaining  two  or  three  marching  hours  I  gave 
up  to  the  men,  who  used  them  in  patching  up  foot 
gear,  and  other  little  things  which  had  become  neces- 
sary. 

;  Our  foot  gear  all  became  thoroughly  wet  to-day, 
one  may  say  for  the  first  time.  Temperature  in  the 
shade  14°. 


32         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        MAY 

Latitude  of  extreme  point      .  .  82°  16'  0"  N. 

Longitude  of  extreme  point  .  .  85°  33'  0"  W. 

Latitude  of  farthest  land  seen  .  82°  10'  0"  N. 

Longitude  of  farthest  land  seen  .  86°  30'  0"  W.' 

On  the  homeward  journey  the  attack  of  scurvy 
gradually  became  more  pronounced,  and  the  fast 
increasing  weakness  of  the  men  rendered  the  daily 
distance  accomplished  so  short  that  the  provisions 
placed  in  depot  on  the  passage  out  were  insufficient  to 
last  them,  on  full  allowance,  while  travelling  from  one 
depot  to  another.  Doubtless  the  necessarily  reduced 
ration  helped  to  accelerate  the  advance  of  the  dreadful 
malady. 

On  the  30th  Ward  Hunt  Island  was  reached,  and 
Aldrich's  journal  thus  continues  : — 

'  Had  a  hard  clamber  up  a  steep  slope  on  the  south 
side  of  the  island,  which  was  covered  with  deep  snow, 
and  reached  the  top  of  a  ridge  about  600  feet  above 
the  ice,  and  which  runs  to  the  west  in  the  direction  of 
the  cone.  I  found  this  nearly  bare  of  snow,  and 
composed  of  small  stones  and  earth,  similar  to  Crozier 
Island,  in  James  Eoss  Bay.  Vegetation  was  fairly  re- 
presented as  regards  quantity,  in  the  poppy,  saxifrage, 
and  small  tufts  of  grass.  I  saw  no  actual  tracks  of 
animals,  but  hares  had  evidently  visited  the  locality, 
though  not  recently.  One  or  two  snow-buntings  were 
flying  about. 

'  The  island,  as  far  as  I  have  seen,  appears  to  be 
formed  of  small  rubble,  &c.  There  is  no  sign  of  a 
cliff,  except  at  the  north-west  end,  the  rest  being  very 
rounded.  Like  Crozier  Island,  and  the  low  projections 


1876  ALDRICH'S   RETURN   JOURNEY.  33 

off  the  capes,  it  is  steeper  to  the  westward,  and  low  and 
shelving  to  the  eastward  ;  and  to  whatever  their  forma- 
tion may  be  due,  they  resemble  one  another  in  so 
many  ways  that  their  existence  may  very  probably 
arise  from  the  same  cause. 

'  Camped  at  7.30  P.M.  Temperature  14°.  Travel- 
ling rather  better,  but  the  journey  is  not  a  very  long- 
one.  The  men  are  regularly  done. 

'  Our  whiskers,  moustaches,  and  beards  are  very 
much  lighter  than  their  natural  hues,  and  their  delicate 
"  golden  tint "  imparts  an  air  of  cleanliness  to  our 
features,  which  much  require  something  of  the  kind  to 
do  away  with  the  sooty  and  begrimed  appearance  of 
our  stearine-smoked  countenances/ 

On  the  5th  of  June  they  passed  Cape  Columbia  on 
their  return  ;  and  on  the  7th  the  dreaded  word  '  scurvy ' 
was  used  for  the  first  time. 

Aldrich's  journal  continues  : — '  Temperature  23°. 
A  very  splendid  day  can  see  to  within  thirty  miles  of 
the  ship,  a  fact  I  have  impressed  on  the  men,  with  good 
effect.  Observed  a  large  bird  some  distance  off,  it  flew 
something  like  a  gull.  Snow-bunting  are  numerous  on 
the  land. 

'  Camped  about  one  mile  W.S.W.  of  Point  Stubbs. 
A  curious  afternoon ;  sudden  and  very  thick  fogs, 
breaking  occasionally  to  give  us  an  hour  or  so  of 
magnificently  clear  weather. 

'  We  are  all  very  agreeably  surprised  at  the  state 
of  the  travelling,  which  has  vastly  improved  in  our 
absence.  The  snow  is  fine-grained,  and  eight  to  ten 
inches  deep. 

'  I  have  heard  many  mild  complaints  of  late  as  to 

VOL.  n.  D 


34  VOYAGE   TO   THE  POLAR  SEA.  JUNE 

the  effects  of  the  pemmican  ;  latterly  everyone,  except 
Ayles  and  I,  suffer  more  or  less.  I  attribute  it  to 
weakness.  Had  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  procure 
game,  I  daresay  this  would  not  have  been  experienced ; 
but  where  game  is  not  to  be  got,  I  believe  an  occasional 
change  to  preserved  meat  might  be  beneficial.  An- 
other symptom  which  has  become  apparent  yesterday 
and  to-day  with  four  of  the  crew,  is  tender  gums, 
which  I  hope  may  be  due  to  the  increased  allowance  of 
biscuit.  Hitherto,  while  rather  short  of  it,  we  always 
soaked  it  in  tea  or  pemmican  to  make  it  go  farther, 
now  we  eat  it,  or  some  of  it,  without  softening  it.  I 
hope  it  is  not  scurvy,  though  Jas.  Doidge  asked  me  the 
question  to-day,  "  Is  scurvy  ever  got  while  sledging, 
sir?" 

'  I  answered  in  perfect  truth  in  one  sense,  though 
not  in  another,  "  No,"  and  attributed  everything  to  the 
hard  biscuit.  All  hands  have  been  in  the  drag-ropes 
to-day. 

'  8th. — The  temperature  is  3  degrees  above  freezing 
point,  and  the  wet  snow  forms  a  bad  road  ;  it  appears 
to  change  marvellously  quickly  with  the  temperature. 

'  Could  not  get  on  at  all ;  halted,  unpacked,  and 
loaded  to  300  Ibs.  This  was  nearly  as  bad.  Took 
everything  off  the  sledge  except  the  cooking  gear,  and 
a  few  small  things. 

'At  10  Stubbs  came  to  me  very  ill,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  excuse  him  from  the  drag-ropes.  Shortly 
after,  the  Sergeant  became  out  of  breath,  and  too 
weak  to  get  on,  so  I  sent  him  back  ready  for  the  second 
load.  After  taking  a  spell,  finding  Ayles  and  I  could 
get  on  quicker  by  ourselves,  I  sent  them  all  back, 


1870  ALDRICH'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  35 

while  he  and  I  dragged  the  sledge  and  tramped  down 
a  road.  Halted,  unpacked,  and  back  for  the  remainder 
of  the  gear,  which  came  up  slowly  but  surely.  After 
lunch,  started  with  whole  load,  snow  a  little  crisper. 
Got  along  tolerably  for  half  an  hour,  then  came  to  a 
dead  stop.  Canted  sledge  on  to  the  medical  box,  and 
scraped  the  runners,  which  in  some  places  had  as  much 
as  three  inches'  thickness  of  ice  on  them  underneath, 
which  assisted  in  enlarging  the  tremendous  cakes  of 
snow  the  sledge  forced  before  it.  A  second  time  we 
did  this,  and  at  the  end  of  an  hour  we  had  advanced 
just  ten  yards.  However,  we  got  on  much  better  after- 
wards. 

'  9#A. — I  ought  to  put  Stubbs  on  the  sledge,  the 
Sergeant  ought  to  be  put  there  too,  but  there  is  not 
strength  enough  left  to  drag  them.  Came  across 
numerous  deep  places,  which  cost  us  much  trouble  to 
get  through.  I  found  it  a  good  thing  dragging  the 
sledge  over  the  shovel  occasionally.  Pitched  tent  for 
lunch.  Stubbs  is  perfectly  easy,  so  he  says,  though  I 
daresay  he  does  not  feel  as  well  as  he  wishes  to  make 
out,  as  he  puts  a  very  good  face  on  things  in  general. 
After  lunch,  the  Sergeant  and  Mann  both  gave  in, 
leaving  five  of  us  on  the  drag-ropes,  Ayles  and  I 
becoming  permanent  leading  men.  Did  a  very  good 
afternoon's  work,  considering  all  things.  Temperature 
down  to  plus  27°.  We  had  the  tent  pitched  by  the 
time  the  sick  came  up.  Gums  very  tender,  which 
prevents  the  allowance  of  biscuit  being  eaten.  It 
will  be  observed,  that  it  is  the  bluejackets  who  hang- 
out— the  marine,  shipwright,  and  blacksmith  being 
disabled. 

D  2 


36  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA. 

6  IQth. — Under  weigh  at  9.55,  three  invalids  follow- 
ing. Poor  Stubbs  requires  all  his  courage  and  endurance. 
Several  times  as  we  went  on,  Ayles  and  I  sank  nearly 
up  to  our  hips,  but  occasionally  we  came  to  long 
stretches  of  good  hard  travelling,  and  we  camped 
abreast  Point  Moss  at  9.30. 

'  11th. — We  are  looking  forward  to  news  from  the 
ship  as  we  draw  near  our  depot, — something  to  give 
us  a  change  to  the  conversation,  which  tumbles  into 
the  same  groove  pretty  well  every  night.  Eead  the 
Morning  Service. 

'  After  lunch,  the  travelling  became  much  harder 
and  better,  which  enabled  us  to  make  a  good  journey, 
and  brought  us  abreast  the  Cape  Colan  depot  at  11.30, 
all  very  fagged.  I  walked  up  to  it  while  the  tent 
was  being  pitched,  with  the  intention  of  getting  the 
letters,  &c.,  but  I  found  Lieutenant  Giffard  had  erected 
such  a  magnificent  structure,  that  I  could  make  but 
little  impression  on  it,  and  contented  myself  with  his 
note,  which  I  found  attached  to  the  staff. 

6  There  were  several  hare  tracks  round  the  cairn. 
Good  is  thoroughly  knocked  up  again,  and  can  eat 
nothing.  Made  good  five  miles. 

'  1 2 th.— Temperature  of  the  air  25°,  in  the  tent  51°. 
Left  invalids  in  the  tent.  Eemainder  of  us  up  to  the 
depot,  which  was  all  right  except  the  lime-juice  jar 
broken  in  the  neck.  Fortunately  none  of  the  contents 
were  spilt.  Packed  sledge,  read  news  to  the  crew. 
All  hands  glad  to  hear  "  Discovery  "  was  all  right,  and 
communication  established.  Their  success  with  the 
musk-oxen  caused  our  mouths  to  water.  We  feel  the 
increased  load  very  much,  the  sledge  is  heavier  by  400 


1876  ALDRICH'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  37 

Ibs.,  which,  with  the  constants,  brings  up  the  total  to 
1,000  Ibs.,  or  a  load  of  200  Ibs.  per  man. 

4  ~L3th. — Breakfasted  off  6  Ibs.  of  preserved  meat 
which  had  been  forwarded  with  the  depot.  Everyone 
relished  the  change,  and  ate  well. 

'  A  heavy  fall  of  snow,  and  a  dense  fog  puts  an  end 
to  my  only  chance  of  getting  down  the  inlet.  We  have 
not  been  fortunate  in  our  weather  as  far  as  fog  is 
concerned.  Took  the  collapsible  boat  off  the  sledge, 
fitted  her  with  drag-ropes,  and  with  a  light  load  gave 
her  in  charge  of  the  three  worst  invalids,  who  managed 
to  keep  together  and  get  along  slowly,  but  causing  us 
to  lose  much  time  by  waiting  for  them.  Got  on  very 
fairly  till  eight  o'clock,  when  Good  nearly  fainted. 
There  appears  to  be  utter  inability  to  get  breath,  no 
pain,  and  no  difficulty  to  speak  of  in  breathing  when 
at  rest.  The  least  exertion  brings  it  on.  I  am  half 
afraid  we  shall  not  get  on  board  without  assistance,  for 
which  either  Ayles  or  myself  will  have  to  walk  in.  An 
entirely  lost  day,  one  way  and  another.  Made  good 
a  mile  and-a-half. 

'  Notwithstanding  the  sickness,  the  consumption  of 
food  to-day  has  been  very  large. 

'  Uth. — Order  of  travelling  the  same  as  yesterday. 
Snow  hard  and  good,  seldom  letting  one  in  above  the 
ankle.  Pitched  tent  for  lunch  and  to  wait  for  invalids. 

4  Made  good  way  again  after  lunch,  until  within  a 
mile  of  Sail  Harbour,  when  we  came  into  the  most 
villainous  snow,  which  caused  nothing  but  standing 
hauls.  In  this  our  comfort  greatly  depended  on  keep- 
ing w^ay  on  the  sledge,  and  our  struggles  to  do  so 
would  have  been  ludicrous  to  anyone  nol  engaged  in 


38         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        JUNE 

them.  Ayles  and  I  leading,  often  got  in  nearly  up  to 
our  middles,  we  could  not  afford  to  stop  hauling,  which 
we  continued  on  hands  and  knees,  until  we  got  on  to 
a  firmer  footing,  or  came  to  a  helpless  standstill.  For 
us  it  was  bad  enough,  but  when  the  other  three  went 
in,  separately  or  altogether,  they  had  barely  time  to 
throw  themselves  clear  of  the  runners.  Made  good 
four  and-a-half  to  five  miles. 

'  Adam  Ayles  has  not  been  very  well  to-day,  the 
effects  of  being  trodden  on  by  an  invalid  in  getting  out 
of  the  tent  last  night.  I  could  ill  afford  to  lose  his 
services. 

6 15^A. — Temperature  inside  the  tent  67°.  Mann 
and  Stubbs  better.  After  reaching  Sail  Harbour  we  got 
on  with  but  little  trouble,  being  delayed  only  by  the  sick 
lagging  behind.  Waiting  as  we  had  to  in  a  dense  fog, 
and  with  a  cold  east  wind,  was  not  comfortable  after 
the  violent  perspiration  brought  about  by  our  exertions. 
Halted  at  six  for  two  hours.  Under  weigh  at  eight  to 
cross  Parry  Peninsula,  but  found  the  hill  too  steep  for 
the  small  amount  of  strength  we  could  command.  The 
strongest  of  us  carried  the  gear  up,  and  in  one  hour 
had  advanced  our  whole  baggage  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile. 

'  IQth. — Under  weigh  at  2.55  A.M.,  actually  of  the 
17th,  and  proceeded  downhill  with  standing  pulls 
through  deep  soft  snow.  At  last  we  reached  the  ice 
in  the  small  indentation  on  the  east  side  of  Parry 
Peninsula,  with  very  good  travelling;  thence  up 
another  small  rise  which  we  got  up  a  few  yards  at  a 
time,  by  constantly  waiting  for  some  one  or  other  to 
recover  breath.  However,  all  things  come  to  an  end, 


1876  ALDRICH'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  39 

and  on  reaching  the  top  of  the  hill  I  was  glad  to  turn 
the  invalids  off  to  their  boat  again. 

c  A  lovely  evening.     Made  good  five  to  six  miles. 

'  Ylth. — Started  off  the  invalids  ahead,  while  we 
struck  tent  and  packed  sledge.  The  travelling  in 
splendid  order.  Temperature  21°. 

'  Overtook  the  invalids  toiling  drearily  along  by 
the  time  we  had  cleared  James  Eoss  Bay  and  begun 
the  overland  route  immediately  south  of  Observation 
Peak.  We  are  singularly  fortunate  in  the  weather ; 
there  is  a  dense  fog  everywhere  except  in  the  valley 
for  which  we  are  steering,  some  curious  eddying  of  the 
light  air  keeps  it  from  settling  there. 

'  Joseph  Good  and  Doidge  are  at  the  drag-ropes, 
but  not  pulling  an  ounce ;  they  are  very  plucky,  but 
utterly  unable  to  do  anything. 

'  With  our  small  power  we  had  a  very  heavy  pull 
up  the  incline,  the  snow  on  which  was,  however,  in 
beautiful  condition,  hard  and  slippery  enough  to  cause 
Ayles  and  myself 'often  to  lose  our  footing.  Had  it  not 
been  so  I  really  do  not  know  what  we  could  have 
done. 

'  Halted  at  8.40  for  lunch  and  invalids.  Despatched 
invalids  ahead — it  is  dreary  work,  such  constant  wait- 
ing. Not  being  able  to  leave  the  sledge,  I  cannot  go 
on  to  see  the  road.  I  hope  we  shall  come  out  all 
right,  but  to  me  the  route  is  new,  and  whether  Giffard 
tried  it  or  not  I  do  not  know.  Under  weigh  at  10.30, 
and  proceeded  as  in  forenoon,  stopping  and  waiting 
continually.  Camped  at  two,  and  I  walked  on  to  see 
the  route,  which  cost  me  three  hours'  heavy  walking. 
I  was  well  repaid  by  finding  it  all  clear,  ^and  much 


40         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA,        JUNE 

preferable  to  the  longer  and  more  tortuous  journey  by 
Guide  Hill.  Sighted  Conical  Hill,  and  having  ascer- 
tained my  whereabouts,  returned  to  the  tent  at  five, 
very  tired  and  with  a  splitting  headache,  the  effects  of 
a  very  powerful  sun.  Invalids  arrived  five  minutes 
after  me,  having  occupied  six  hours  and-a-half  in 
walking  a  distance  we  hauled  the  sledge  slowly  in  two 
hours  and-a-quarter. 

'  Had  we  but  one  invalid,  or  perhaps  two,  we  could 
put  them  on  the  sledge.  As  it  is,  they  must  walk,  or 
give  in  altogether,  in  which  case  I  must  send  Ayles  on 
from  View  Point  Depot,  trusting  in  his  intelligence, 
strength,  and  endurance  to  reach  the  ship  and  ask  for 
assistance.  When  I  spoke  to  him  on  the  subject,  he 
expressed  his  readiness  to  start,  and  I  have  every  con- 
fidence in  the  man ;  he  has  been  with  me  both  in  the 
autumn  and  spring,  and  I  cannot  speak  too  highly  of 
him.  Having  the  blessing  of  health,  his  assistance  to 
me  throughout  has  been  and  is  invaluable ;  and  the 
anything  but  cheering  circumstances  in  which  we  are 
placed  enables  me  fully  to  appreciate  it.  I  keep  an 
anxious  look-out  on  the  weather,  dreading  the  thaw 
which  must  shortly  set  in,  and  which  will  soon  render 
the  route  between  View  Point  and  the  ship  very  bad, 
if  not  impassable. 

'  Sunday,  18 th. — Eead  the  Morning  Service.  Ee- 
joicing  in  a  cold  morning,  but  it  is  thick  and  inclined 
to  snow.  It  is  fortunate  I  walked  ahead  last  night,  as 
we  followed  my  tracks..  James  Doidge  collapsed  soon 
after  starting,  and  having  brought  him  to  with  a  strong 
dose  of  sal  volatile,  left  him  to  come  on  with  the  others, 
while  Good,  Mitchell,  Ayles,  and  I  marched  on  with 


1876  ALDRICH'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  41 

the  sledge,  poor  Good  complaining  bitterly  we  were 
going  too  fast,  and  Mitchell  scarcely  able  to  put 
one  foot  before  the  other.  Halted  for  lunch  and 
invalids,  and  under  weigh  at  11.20  again.  The 
crew  showed  such  evident  signs  of  giving  way  to 
their  ever-increasing  sickness,  and  that  before  we  could 
reach  View  Point,  I  took  Good  on  one  side,  and  told 
them  they  must  all  try  their  hand  at  dragging  again. 
I  explained  the  actual  necessity  there  was  for  reaching 
our  next  depot,  and  that,  failing  to  meet  anyone  there, 
I  should  communicate  with  the  ship.  To  further  im- 
press this  on  the  men,  I  loaded  the  collapsible  boat  to 
130  Ibs.,  and  absented  myself  with  it  from  the  party 
for  over  an  hour,  leaving  them  to  follow.  I  was  able 
to  do  this  without  getting  far  away,  as  the  fog  was 
very  dense. 

'  Having  hit  off  the  ravine  just  north  of  View  Point, 
I  returned  to  the  sledge,  and  found  them  hauling  five 
or  six  yards  at  a  time,  and  then  halting  a  few  seconds 
to  recover  breath.  The  poor  fellows  were  all  strug- 
gling, and  fully  alive  to  the  effort  they  had  to  make. 
Nothing  could  exceed  the  patience  and  endurance 
they  showed ;  and  I  fell  in  with  them,  and  we  reached 
the  boat  and  camped  at  2.30  P.M. — the  whole  of  them, 
except  Ayles,  thoroughly  done  up.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances pitching  and  cooking  comes  heavy.  We 
divided  those  duties,  keeping  to  the  usual  turns  for 
cooking  as  often  as  it  was  possible  for  the  proper  man 
to  take  it ;  but  our  cuisine  suffered. 

'  Made  good  three  miles  (overland). 

'  19^A  and  20^. — A  great  deal  clearer  than  yester- 
day, and  the  wind  gone  down. 


42  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  JOTTE 

'  Travelling  most  excellent,  fortunately,  and  the 
ravine  taking  us  down,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  sledge 
following  with  the  least  possible  strain  on  the  drag- 
belts.  As  the  Sergeant  was  exceedingly  ill,  and  I  did 
not  like  the  look  of  him  at  all,  we  put  him  on  the 
sledge,  and  I  walked  on  with  the  boat  well  loaded. 
Mitchell,  Good,  Doidge,  and  Ayles  came  with  the 
sledge.  On  coming  to  a  little  bit  of  level  travelling, 
which  required  more  strain  on  the  drag-ropes,  I  got 
the  Sergeant  down,  and  supported  him  along  while 
I  dragged  the  boat  at  the  same  time.  There  was 
nothing  for  it  but  to  go  on  very  slowly,  waiting  as 
they  required,  and  urging  on  for  the  depot  and  ship 
news ;  but  the  fact  of  getting  the  latter  does  riot  raise 
their  spirits,  although  the  actual  fact  of  getting  it  has 
been  more  or  less  talked  about  all  the  homeward 
journey.  At  seven  came  to  View  Point.  Observed  a 
staff  placed  in  the  snow  by  Dr.  Moss,  which  gave  us 
the  intelligence  that  the  Commander's  party  had 
passed,  but  no  particulars,  the  latter  being  left  farther 
on  at  the  depot.  We  were  glad  to  hear  of  their  safe 
return,  but  sorry  they  were  before  us,  as  we  had  half 
hoped  to  have  met  with  some  assistance  from  them. 
As  events  have  become  subsequently  known,  we  should 
not  have  benefited  one  another  by  meeting. 

'  Little  by  little  we  crept  on,  but  eveiy  moment 
made  our  inability  to  go  on  for  the  ship  without  assist- 
ance the  more  apparent. 

'  "  There's  a  silver  lining  to  every  cloud,"  and 
never  did  one  appear  so  welcome  as  that  which  came 
in  the  form  of  a  shout  from  the  hill  above  View'  Point 
and  the  discharge  of  a  gun.  It  turned  out  to  be 


1876  ALDRICH   MEETS   LIEUT.    MAY.  43 

Malley,  and  what  lie  thought  of  my  proceedings  I 
don't  know,  for  with  a  yell  of  "  Challenger "  I  dis- 
appeared back  among  the  hummocks,  and  returned  to 
the  sledge  where  it  was  waiting  for  me  to  shackle  on 
again.  My  news  was  received  with  a  shout,  and 
thinking  it  might  be  a  shooting  party,  I  promised  them 
hare  for  supper.  I  then  left  them  to  pitch  their  tent, 
and  walked  in  towards  the  shore.  As  I  neared  it, 
among  the  hummocks,  I  met  Lieutenant  May  and 
Malley. 

'  On  learning  that  they  had  been  despatched  to  our 
assistance  by  Captain  Nares,  on  his  seeing  the  condi- 
tion of  the  Northern  Party  when  they  returned,  the 
relief  to  my  mind  I  cannot  describe.  All  difficulties 
seemed  to  vanish ;  and  the  very  sight  of  the  fine 
healthy  and  "  clean  "  appearance  of  our  visitors  led  me 
to  look  for  a  much  more  rapid  and  comfortable  return 
on  board  than  I  have  thought  about  for  some  weeks. 
I  accompanied  May  to  his  tent  at  the  depot,  while 
Malley  went  out  to  the  men  to  lend  them  a  hand  in 
pitching  their  tent  and  cooking,  &c.  As  soon  as  pos- 
sible we  sent  off  Thornback  with  medical  comforts  for 
their  supper ;  and  I  cautioned  both  him  and  Malley 
about  saying  anything  of  the  deaths  which  had  oc- 
curred during  our  absence,  fearing  the  effect  it  might 
have  on  the  men. 

4 1  was  truly  distressed  to  hear  of  the  death  of 
my  poor  servant,  George  Porter,  and  Petersen  ;  and 
I  congratulated  myself,  and  felt  deeply  grateful,  that 
we  had  arrived  with  all  hands  alive,  if  not  well. 

'  Having  arranged  with  May  to  send  two  hands  to 
help  us  along  in  the  morning,  and  that  the  depot  should 


44  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  JUNE 

be  demolished,  as  a  preconcerted  signal  to  the  Captain, 
I  returned  to  my  tent,  and  found  the  "  social  baro- 
meter "  had  risen  several  inches ;  but  I  heard  after- 
wards that  Malley  was  received  with  tears. 

'  21^. — Under  weigh  at  9.45. 

c  The  dog-sledge  brought  on  the  invalids  by  relays, 
two  at  a  time.  This  plan  we  continued  until  we 
reached  the  ships ;  the  dogs  and  their  blue-jacket 
driver  doing  their  hard  work  splendidly.  As  I  feared 
the  inaction  for  the  sick,  I  constantly  made  them  do 
some  walking.  The  only  exception  I  made  to  this 
rule  was  in  the  case  of  the  Sergeant,  whom  we  kept 
permanently  on  the  "  Challenger."  It  was  now  that  we 
observed  with  satisfaction  the  way  in  which  my  men 
sought  to  relieve  the  dogs  by  walking  themselves. 
Mitchell  did  not  get  on  the  sledge  at  all,  but  trudged 
on  with  great  pluck  and  perseverance,  Camped  at  9.30 
P.M.  Eeaction  has  set  in,  and  the  excitement  of  yester- 
day has  given  way  to  greater  weakness  and  lowness  of 
spirits.  Eegaled  the  crew  with  two  pots  of  oysters, 
apple  jelly,  and  egg  flips,  much  to  their  satisfaction. 

'  Made  good  and  travelled  eight  miles. 

'  22nd. — As  I  did  not  want  my  men  to  hear  of 
poor  Porter's  death,  and  his  grave  was  a  short  distance 
\  ahead  on  the  floe,  I  sent  Self  on  with  the  ostensible 
object  of  carrying  the  five-man  tent  and  baggage  ahead 
first,  but  really  to  remove  the  cross  which  marked  the 
spot.  This  he  did,  and  returned  to  go  on  with  the  same 
work  as  yesterday,  advancing  the  sick  two  at  a  time. 
Directed  Self  to  replace  the  cross  over  the  grave,  which 
was  accordingly  done. 

'Travelling  very  good,  except  latter  part  of  the 


1876  ALDRICH'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  45 

day,  when  the  snow  became  soft  and  the  sledge  very 
dead  in  her  movements.  It  is  thawing  fast  in  the  sun, 
but  we  did  not  pass  through  much  sludge. 

'  Ayles  has  shown  his  first  sign  of  weakness  of  limb 
to-day ;  strength  of  will  remains  as  before.  His 
knee  is  rather  swollen  and  stiff;  he  says  he  hit  it 
against  a  hummock,  but  it  is  the  increased  pace  at 
which  we  come.  I  know  it  taxes  me  to  the  utmost  to 
haul  with  the  men  we  now  have.  Made  good  nine 
miles. 

4  23rd. — Arrived  at  Cape  Richardson,  and  were 
welcomed  by  Lieutenant  Parr  and  Captain  Feilden  to 
their  tent ;  they  cooked  for  us,  and  gave  us  what  we 
had  not  tasted  for  many  long  days — hare  and  geese. 
We  all  ate  heartily  of  this  fare,  which,  with  the  port 
wine,  made  the  invalids  different  men.  . 

'  The  travelling  has  been  heavy,  "  One,  two,  three 
haul ! "  pretty  constantly,  and  snow  soft  and  sludgy, 
above  the  knee  in  places.  Temperature  35°.  Made 
good  seven  miles. 

'  24:th. — Lunched  off  north  end  of  Simmonds'  Island 
at  eight.  After  lunch  marched  for  the  boats,  which 
we  reached  after  four  hours'  very  hard  travelling, 
through  sludge  and  pools  in  places.  The  dogs  and 
Self  had  a  very  hard  day,  and  the  last  of  the  invalids 
did  not  reach  the  tent  till  two  hours  after  us.  No 
fainting  to-day,  but  the  Sergeant  is  very,  very  weak 
indeed,  and  there  is  no  visible  improvement  in  the 
others.  Ayles  is  better,  but  evidently  touched  with 
the  malady.  The  travelling  is  beginning  to  get  very 
bad,  as  we  come  to  many  places  where  the  snow 
looks  sound  enough,  but  in  which  we  sink  down  till 


46  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR   SEA.  JUNE 

we   come   to   water    underneath.     Temperature    35°. 
Made  good  six  miles. 

'  Sunday,  June  25th. — Lunched  in  Eavine  Bay, 
and  reached  the  tents  on  Mushroom  Point  about  3  P.M. 
As  we  were  now  only  six  miles  from  the  ships,  and  we 
had  reason  to  expect  good  travelling,  we  rested  for 
three  hours  in  the  tents  already  pitched,  and  I  served 
out  the  remainder  of  the  medical  comforts,  which  was 
sufficient  to  give  all  the  sick  a  very  fair  meal ;  then, 
after  a  short  nap,  we  hauled  the  sledges  over  the  land. 
On  reaching  the  next  bay  we  found  to  our  dismay  that 
the  travelling  was  extremely  bad,  deep  soft  snow, 
water  in  places,  and  sludge,  through  which  we  had 
great  difficulty  with  both  sledges,  the  dogs  being  afraid 
of  water  and  useless  in  the  deep  snow.  A  fair  fresh 
breeze  sprang  up,  to  which  we  made  sail,  but  it  was 
becoming  apparent  we  would  have  to  camp  out  another 
night,  when  we  sighted  a  sledge  in  the  distance.  This 
turned  out  to  be  a  volunteer  party  of  officers  and 
men,  with  Captain  Nares  and  Commander  Mark- 
ham,  who  soon  hurried  us  on,  and  we  reached  the 
ship  just  after  midnight,  amid  the  cheers  and  congratu- 
lations of  our  shipmates.  Adam  Ayles  and  David 
Mitchell  in  the  drag-ropes,  the  latter  allowed  to 
totter  alongside  in  his  belt,  in  consideration  of  his  own 
request.' 

Lieutenant  Aldrich  having  discovered  that  the  con- 
tinuous border  of  the  heavy  Polar  pack  extends  for 
a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles  towards  the  westward 
from  Floeberg  Beach,  and  that  at  the  farthest  point 
reached  it  was  trending  towards  the  south-west,  demon- 
strates that  no  land  exists  for  a  considerable  distance 


1876  ALDRIOH'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  47 

to  the  northward  or  westward,  or  within  the  reach  of  a 
sledge  expedition,  however  lightly  equipped. 

He  also  discovered  that  the  entrances  to  all  the 
bays  and  harbours  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Joseph 
Henry  were  so  barred  by  the  Polar  ice- wall  that  the 
ice  on  the  inshore  side  of  it  is  unable  to  escape  to 
seaward  during  the  summer.  Consequently,  should  the 
pack  move  away  from  the  shore-ice  with  a  southerly 
wind,  which  we  must  suppose  to  happen  occasionally, 
and  a  vessel  succeed  in  passing  to  the  westward  of  the 
Cape,  the  only  protection  that '  can  be  hoped  for  will 
be  that  afforded  by  an  accidental  break  in  the  con- 
tinuity of  the  ice-wall — she  must  not  expect  to  find 
any  harbour  open. 

Lieutenant  Beaumont,  whose  journey  along  the 
North  Greenland  shore  is  described  in  a  succeeding 
chapter,  likewise  found  that  there  the  heavy  barrier  of 
ice  which  leaves  the  land  near  Cape  Bryant,  and  trends 
in  the  direction  of  Cape  Britannia,  prevents  the  ice 
in  the  bays  and  fiords  from  clearing  out ;  a  ship,  there- 
fore, cannot  hope  to  find  any  protection  on  either  of 
these  ice-bound  shores. 

The  description  of  the  level  plateau  of  uncertain 
formation  which  borders  the  northern  shore  of  Grinnell 
Land ;  whether  of  ice  or  soil,  but  probably  alternate 
layers  of  the  two,  formed  by  the  debris  brought  down  by 
summer  torrents  being  spread  out  above  the  unmelted 
ice,  bears  a  remarkable  resemblance  to  that  described 
.by  Sir  Leopold  M'Clintock  and  Mecham  in  1853,  as 
existing  on  the  western  shore  of  Prince  Patrick  Island  ; 
I  therefore  conclude  that  both  coasts  are  equally 
exposed  to  and  affected  by  the  heavy  ice.  On  the 


48  VOYAGE  TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  JUNE 

other  hand,  as  only  light  ice  was  met  with  on  the 
northern  shores  of  the  Parry  Islands  by  Sir  George 
v  Eichards,  Sherard  Osborn,  and  Sir  Edward  Belcher, 
*  0  I  conclude  that  Grinnell  Land  does  not  turn  to  the 
southward  at  Aldrich's  Farthest,  but  rather  extends 
more  or  less  continuously  for  the  whole  distance  to 
Ireland's  Eye,  protecting  the  Parry  Islands  from  the 
Polar  ice  ;  whether  its  north-western  coast-line  bor- 
dering the  Polar  Sea  runs  nearly  direct  or  not  can 
only  be  conjectured. 

Our  knowledge  regarding  Jones  Sound  is  not  great ; 
but  we  know  that  the  flow  of  warm  water  from  the 
southward  up  Baffin's  Bay  is  to  be  met  with  close 
outside  its  entrance,  and  that  the  tidal  currents  inside 
are  strong.  Further,  Sir  Edward  Inglefield  met  with 
Polar  ice  when  navigating  inside  the  sound  in  1852. 
It  is  therefore  probable  that  Jones  Sound  affords  the 
most  direct  route  leading  from  Baffin's  Bay  in  a  north- 
westerly direction  to  the  Polar  Sea,  and  that  it  separates 
Aldrich's  Farthest  from  the  land  which  protects  the 
Parry  Islands. 

The  results  of  the  two  sledge  journeys  of  Markham 
and  Aldrich,  one  towards  the  north  over  the  heavy 
pack,  and  the  other  following  the  coast-line  towards 
the  westward,  considered  with  the  fact  that  the  birds 
do  not  migrate  farther  towards  the  north  than  the 
neighbourhood  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  lead  me  to  con- 
—  elude  that  no  land  exists  for  a  distance  of  at  least 
two  hundred  miles  to  the  northward. 

The  following  lines  were  composed  by  Mr.  Pullen 
after  the  return  of  the  travellers  : — 


1876     RETURN  OF  THE  SLEDGE  JOURNEYS.      49 

WELCOME  home  to  the  wished-for  rest, 
Traveller  to  North,  and  traveller  to  West ! 
Welcome  back  from  bristling  floe, 
Frowning  cliff,  and  quaking  snow ! 
Nobly,  bravely,  the  work  was  done ; 
Inch  by  inch  was  the  hard  fight  won  : 
Now  the  toilsome  march  is  o'er — 
Welcome  home  to  our  tranquil  shore ! 

Rough  and  rude  is  the  feast  we  bring  ; 

Rougher  and  ruder  the  verse  we  sing. 

Not  rough,  not  rude,  are  the  thoughts  that  rise 

To  choke  our  voices  and  dim  our  eyes, 

As  we  call  to  mind  that  joyous  sight 

On  an  April  morning  cold  and  bright, 

When  a  chosen  band  stepped  boldly  forth 

To  the  unknown  West  and  the  unknown  North  \ 

And  we  from  our  haven  could  only  pray — 

'  God  send  them  strength  for  each  weary  day ! ' 

He  heard  our  prayer — He  made  them  strong — 

He  bore  their  stalwart  limbs  along ; 

Planted  their  sturdy  footsteps  sure ; 

Gave  them  courage  to  endure. 

Taught  them,  too,  for  His  dear  sake, 

Many  a  sacrifice  to  make  : 

By  many  a  tender  woman's  deed 

To  aid  a  brother  in  his  need. 

And  safe  for  ever  shall  He  keep 
In  His  gentle  hand  the  two  who  sleep. 
His  love  shall  quench  thev  tears  that  flow 
For  the  buried  dear  ones  under  the  snow. 
And  we,  who  live  and  are  strong  to  do — 
His  love  shall  keep  us  safely,  too  : 
Shall  tend  our  sick,  and  soothe  their  pain, 
And  bring  them  back  to  health  again. 
And  the  breath  of  His  wind  shall  set  us  free, 
Through  the  opening  ice  to  the  soft  green  sea. 
VOL.   II.  E 


50         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        JUNE 


CHAPTEE  II. 

DECIDE    TO    RETURN    SOUTH — SETTING-IN    OF   THE    THAW — MUSK-OXEN 
SHOT — INCREASE     AND     DECREASE     OF     POLAR      FLOES — FORMATION 

OF     PEN-KNIFE     ICE DISRUPTION     OF    FLOES — CHARR — GREENLAND 

ICE-CAP DRIFT-WOOD  —  ARCTIC      FLOWERING     PLANTS *  ALERT  ' 

STARTS    FOR    DISCOVERY   BAY. 

THE  return  of  the  travellers  to  the  '  Alert '  so  com- 
pletely broken  down  in  health  naturally  caused  me 
much  anxiety.  Out  of  fifty-three  men  on  board, 
twenty-seven  were  under  treatment  for  decided  scurvy, 
four  others  were  slightly  affected,  and  eight  had  only 
lately  recovered ;  five  men  were  in  a  doubtful  state  of 
health  from  the  same  or  other  causes,  leaving  only 
nine  who  in  addition  to  the  officers  could  be  depended 
on  for  hard  work. 

Our  great  desire  was  to  endeavour  to  obtain  fresh 
meat  for  the  invalids,  and  the  officers  diligently  scoured 
the  neighbourhood  in  hopes  of  procuring  game.  A 
small  supply  of  mutton  which  had  remained  frozen 
in  the  rigging  during  the  winter  had  fortunately  been 
saved ;  this,  with  the  birds  obtained  from  time  to  time, 
enabled  Dr.  Golan  to  give  the  scurvy-stricken  patients 
a  fair  change  of  diet,  on  which  their  health  rapidly 
improved. 

Although  I  confidently  looked  forward  to  the  in- 
valids being  speedily  restored  to  health,  yet  when  I  con- 


1876  RESULTS  OF  THE   SLEDGE   JOURNEYS.  51 

sidered  the  magnitude  of  the  outbreak,  T  felt  that  it 
was  my  first  duty  to  guard  against  its  repetition. 
Accordingly  I  determined  to  give  up  all  further  ex- 
ploration, and  to  proceed  to  the  southward  with  both 
ships  as  soon  as  the  ice  should  break  up  and  release  us. 

I  was  confirmed  in  this  resolution  when  I  considered 
the  results  of  the  spring  exploration.  Owing  to  the 
absence  of  land  to  the  northward,  and  the  impenetrable 
character  of  the  Polar  pack,  it  was  evident  that  the 
ship  could  not  be  taken  any  appreciable  distance 
farther  in  that  direction  than  the  latitude  which  we 
had  already  gained ;  and  also  that  it  was  quite  im- 
possible to  reach  the  Pole  by  sledging  from  any  position 
thus  attainable  by  the  ship. 

The  sole  result  that  we  could  possibly  expect  to 
gain  by  remaining  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea 
would  be  an  extension  of  our  explorations  a  few  miles 
farther  in  an  east  and  west  direction.  But  I  could  not 
reasonably  hope  to  advance  the  travelling  parties  more 
than  about  fifty  miles  beyond  the  extreme  points 
already  reached,  even  should  the  men  be  fit  for  ex- 
tended journeys  in  the  following  year.  The  primary 
object  of  the  Expedition — reaching  the  North  Pole- 
being  thus  unattainable,  I  considered  that  I  was  not 
justified  in  risking  a  second  winter,  which  in  all  human 
probability  would  entail  loss  of  life. 

At  this  time  I  had  but  slight  anxiety  concerning  the 
health  of  the  men  who  were  exploring  the  northern 
coast  of  Greenland,  fully  expecting  that  Lieutenant 
Beaumont  would  be  able  to  obtain  enough  game 
to  insure  his  party  from  an  attack  of  scurvy.  The 
number  of  musk-oxen  procured  by  the  crew  of  the 

E   2 


52  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  JPNE 

'  Polaris '  in  Hall  Land  was  sufficient  to  justify  this 
expectation. 

'  2Qth. — A  south-westerly  gale  having  raised  the 
temperature  to  40°,  the  thaw  is  making  rapid  progress 
on  both  the  ice  and  the  land,  and  the  icicles,  which 
only  two  days  ago  so  gracefully  draped  each  floeberg 
and  hid  the  original  ice-block  from  view,  have  dis- 
appeared as  if  by  magic.  A  few  ducks  and  geese  are 
flying  about  evidently  wishing  to  settle  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood ;  the  sportsmen  have  decided  not  to  molest 
them  for  a  few  days,  in  the  hope  of  their  nesting  near  us. 

'  The  tidal-crack  near  Cape  Eawson  has  opened 
ten  feet ;  this  is  the  first  sign  that  we  have  seen  of  a 
movement  in  the  pack. 

'  After  the  long  silence  on  the  lower-deck  it  is 
pleasant  to  hear  Aldrich  playing  the  piano  again  in  his 
usual  cheerful  manner. 

4  29th. — With  the  exception  of  a  few  deep  snow- 
drifts which  still  remain  among  the  hummocks,  the 
snow  has  now  all  melted  from  above  the  one  season's 
ice,  and  the  water  has  run  off'  through  the  tidal-cracks. 
On  shore  the  brows  of  the  hills  have  become  bare,  but 
the  snow  on  the  high  flat  lands  and  that  on  the  aged 
Polar  floes  remains  apparently  little  affected.  In  the 
"  Gap  of  Dunloe  "  a  stream  of  water  fifty  feet  across 
is  running.  At  high- water  it  overflows  the  ice-floe 
in  the  neighbourhood  where  the  stream  discharges  into 
the  sea. 

'  July  \st. — All  the  ravines  are  now  running  freely, 
but  they  are  still  fordable.  The  pleasing  noise  of 
running  water,  with  the  occasional  call  of  a  bird, 


1876  SUMMER  DRESS.  53 

which  has  now  taken  the  place  of  the  winter  silence, 
is  most  agreeable,  and  we  linger  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  ravines  purposely  to  listen  to  the  welcome 
sound.  To-day  Parr  shot  two  ducks  and  a  brent- 
goose— a  very  acceptable  supply,  as  the  last  piece  of  the 
fresh  meat  was  issued  this  morning. 

'  The  invalids  may  be  said  to  live  on  the  upper- 
deck  ;  all  those  who  cannot  walk  are  carried  up  every 
morning.  They  are  recovering  very  rapidly. 

'  3rd. — I  walked  over  the  hills  towards  Black  Cliff 
with  Giffard  and  Conybeare.  We  fully  expected  to 
see  a  few  seal  on  the  ice  in  Kobeson  Channel,  but 
nothing  living  was  in  sight.  The  temperature  ranges 
between  35°  and  40°  in  the  shade,  but  we  find  it  very 
warm  in  the  sun  both  day  and  night. 

'  Our  dress  now  consists  only  of  a  vest,  a  flannel  shirt 
and  worsted  sleeve  waistcoat ;  flannel  drawers,  cricket- 
ing trousers  and  knee-boots,  with  a  light  flannel  cap. 
When  once  the  shore  is  reached  ankle-boots  and 
gaiters  are  preferable  to  the  knee-boots.  The  snow, 
although  deep  and  soft  enough  to  reach  nearly  to  the 
knees,  is  not  very  wet. 

'  Mh. — Adam  Ayles  is  out  of  the  sick  list  to-day. 
Yesterday  another  of  Markham's  men  returned  to  duty. 

'  We  notice,  like  in  the  autumn,  a  pulsation  in  the 
tidal-wave  as  shown  in  any  hole  in  the  ice,  the  water 
rising  and  falling  continually  with  irregular  intervals 
lasting  about  two  minutes.  Dr.  Moss  has  discovered 
a  bed  of  sea- weed  which  was  evidently  thrown  up  on 
the  shore  last  season.  Having  been  frozen  ever  since, 
it  now  appears  quite  fresh ;  mixed  with  it  are  numerous 
Crustacea,  chiefly  Arcturus  and  Nymphon,  with  shells  of 


54  VOYAGE   TO   THE  POLAR   SEA.  JULY 

Trochus  and  Cylickna.  This  sea- weed  lias  been  torn 
from  the  bottom  by  the  grounding  floebergs,  and 
floated  on  to  the  shore.  If  we  had  an  opportunity  of 
letting  down  a  dredge  in  a  depth  of  a  hundred  fathoms, 
or  where  it  has  not  been  disturbed  by  grounding  ice, 
doubtless  we  should  find  the  sea-bottom  abounding 
with  animal  and  vegetable  life,  though  confined  to  a 
few  species. 

6  5£A. — Great  rejoicings  this  morning — Parr  having 
shot  three  musk-oxen  with  two  bullets  and  three  wire 
cartridges  out  of  a  smooth-bore  fowling-piece.  Sight- 
ing the  animals  when  about  two  miles  distant  from  the 
ship,  he  sent  a  man  on  board  with  the  news.  A  large 
party  started  off  immediately  to  surround  them ;  but 
before  we  arrived,  Parr  had  crept  close  up  and  killed 
one  with  the  first  shot ;  the  others  standing  by  their 
comrade,  as  musk-oxen  always  do,  were  then  easily 
despatched  without  assistance  being  required.  Within 
an  hour  they  were  skinned,  cleaned,  and  quartered. 
They  were  small  animals,  a  young  bull  and  two  cows. 
The  three  carcases  weighed  350  Ibs.  Each  had  a 
white  mane  of  long  soft  wool,  the  remains  of  their 
winter  coat ;  it  readily  came  away  when  pulled,  the 
long  black  hair  remaining  firm. 

4  The  animals  appear  to  have  come  from  the  south- 
west, and  we  most  earnestly  hope  that  they  are  the 
forerunners  of  a  larger  herd. 

'  6th. — This  morning  a  solitary  bull  musk-ox  was 
seen  near  the  ship  and  shot  by  Dr.  Moss,  giving  us 
212  Ibs.  more  fresh  meat.  The  flesh  appears  excellent, 
but  is  very  lean  and  not  equal  to  that  of  the  fat  oxen 
killed  last  autumn.  This  animal  came  north  along  the 


1876  WATER-POOLS   ON   THE  ICE.  55 

brow  of  the  coast-hills,  and  probably  belonged  to  the 
same  herd  as  those  shot  yesterday  by  Parr. 

6  Poor  Bruin,  the  dog  that  has  performed  such  good 
work  in  dragging  fresh-water  ice  to  the  ship  from  the 
quarry,  was  to  day  found  drowned,  having  probably 
fallen  into  the  water  in  a  fit. 

'  The  water-pools  on  the  surface  of  the  old  Polar 
floes  are  not  increasing  in  size  to  the  same  extent  as 
those  on  the  younger  ice.  On  ice  formed  from  water 
newly  frozen  over  during  the  previous  season  the 
surface  is  so  level  that  when  the  thaw  first  commences 
the  water  from  the  melted  snow  collects  in  one  vast 
sheet  many  acres  in  extent,  until  at  last  it  runs  off 
through  holes  or  cracks  in  the  ice.  The  snow  on  the 
surface  of  an  old  floe,  affected  only  superficially  by  the 
heat  rays  of  the  sun,  and  not  appreciably  so  by  the 
temperature  of  the  water  below,  does  not  melt  nearly 
so  quickly,  and  owing  to  the  very  uneven  surface 
the  snow-water  collects  only  in  the  hollows,  and 
presents  a  totally  different  appearance  from  that  of  the 
large  seas  of  water  which  are  met  with  early  in  the 
season  on  smooth  ice. 

'  Since  the  first  melting  of  the  snow  we  observe  that 
several  of  the  floebergs  near  the  mouths  of  the  large 
ravines  are  covered  in  parts  by  pebbles  and  debris 
carried  down  by  the  rapid  streams. 

'  The  fresh- water  at  a  temperature  slightly  above 
32°  readily  melts  all  the  sea- water  ice  with  which  it 
comes  in  contact,  and  smooths  off  the  upper  surfaces  of 
the  floebergs,  leaving  a  level  icy  floor,  above  which  the 
stream  spreads  itself  out  and  deposits  a  thick  horizontal 
layer  of  rounded  pebbles  which  it  has  transported  from 


56  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  ^EA.  JTJLY 

the  higher  lands.  We  had  previously  supposed  that 
the  mounds  of  pebbles  met  with  formed  part  of  the 
actual  shore,  but  the  tidal  movement  has  lately  tilted 
some  of  the  pieces  of  ice  and  so  displayed  the  lower 
stratum  below  the  gravel. 

'  Lightened  as  such  floebergs  are  by  the  melting 
away  of  the  original  upper  surface,  since  they  were 
forced  high  up  on  shore,  many  of  them  must  be  floated 
off  to  sea  when  the  ice  breaks  up,  carrying  with  them 
their  cargo  of  rounded  pebbles. 

'  The  marks  which  were  placed  in  the  floe  to  ascer- 
tain how  much  the  ice  would  decay  during  the  winter 
by  superficial  evaporation,  and  which  proved  to  be 
nil,  indicate  to-day  that  ten  inches  of  the  upper 
surface  has  melted  or  evaporated  during  the  last 
fourteen  days.  Many  lost  articles  which  have  remained 
buried  during  the  winter  are  therefore  now  again  ap- 
pearing in  sight. 

*  Similar  marks  fixed  in  a  floeberg  show  that  seven 
inches  of  ice  has  decayed  from  the  upper  surface  and 
nearly  as  much  from  its  southern  face.  The  rounding 
off  of  the  sharp  edges  is  therefore  very  considerable. 
Had  we  known  of  this  during  the  autumn,  we  could 
readily  have  ascertained  which  floebergs  had  been 
recently  stranded  and  which  had  been  subject  to  a 
previous  summer's  thaw. 

'  Although  the  decay  of  the  ice  near  us  far  exceeds 
our  expectations,  the  large  expanse  of  surface  in 
the  Polar  pack  would  not  be  affected  to  so  great  an 
extent ;  nevertheless,  the  evidence  is  in  favour  of  the 
superficial  decay  of  the  North  Polar  ice  being  at  least 
equal  to,  if  not  greater  than,  any  possible  increase 


187tt  GROWTH  OF  POLAR  ICE.  57 

which  may  take  place  on  its  surface  by  the  change  of 
the  snow  into  ice  or  otherwise. 

'  If  the  ice  increases  superficially  it  is  difficult  to 
account  for  the  absence  of  annual  lines  of  stratifi- 
cation, or  a  thick  stratum  of  pure  fresh-water  ice  on 
the  upper  surface  of  the  floes.  In  no  case  have  we 
found  the  layer  of  fresh-water  ice  to  be  more  than 
about  two  feet  in  thickness.  It  is  only  to  be  found 
in  the  hollows  on  the  surface  of  a  floe ;  the  ice  at 
the  highest  parts,  above  where  the  water  produced 
by  the  melting  of  the  snow  would  naturally  collect,  is 
invariably  more  or  less  brackish. 

'  Wherever  a  piece  of  a  floe  has  been  turned  on  its 
side,  and  when  in  that  position  become  re-frozen  into 
the  pack,  that  part  of  its  former  upper  surface  which 
was  composed  of  fresh- water  ice  changes  its  character 
and  becomes  brackish  ice  and  appears  as  a  vertical 
vein  running  through  the  newly  formed  floe  ;  such 
veins  never  present  the  decided  blue  tint  which  is  so 
frequently  to  be  seen  in  an  iceberg  where  a  crack  in 
the  parent  glacier  has  become  filled  with  frozen  water. 

'  There  is,  however,  evidence  that  the  layer  of  snow 
on  the  surface  of  the  ice  does  become  changed  into  ice 
under  certain  circumstances.  On  one  of  the  large 
floebergs  in  the  pack  near  the  ship  a  quantity  of  debris 
ice  had  become  piled  up  to  a  height  of  eighteen  feet 
above  the  snow  layer  of  a  previous  season,  which  was 
about  two  feet  in  thickness.  In  March  the  snow 
immediately  under  the  piled  up  hummocks  had  become 
changed  into  ice  while  that  left  uncovered  remained 
unchanged.  Although  no  measurement  was  obtained 
the  thickness  of  the  layer  which  had  changed  its  for- 


58         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.       JULY 
« 

mation  was  apparently  the  same  as  that  of  the  original 
snow  layer.  Unfortunately  a  sample  was  not  obtained, 
and  I  cannot  say  whether  the  ice  was  brackish  or  not, 
but  I  think  that  it  was  so  and  that  the  change  had 
taken  place  by  the  percolating  downwards  of  the  salt 
brine  from  the  ice  above,  as  noticed  in  other  floebergs. 

'  On  the  whole  I  conclude  that  the  Polar  ice  in- 
creases in  thickness  below  and  not  superficially,  and  by 
the  natural  freezing  of  the  water  at  its  lower  surface 
during  the  winter.  As  before  mentioned,  a  Polar 
floe  only  one  year  old  is  composed,  not  of  ordinary 
ice  frozen  on  the  surface  of  a  space  of  water,  but 
of  a  quantity  of  conglomerate  ice  pressed  together  by 
the  general  movement  of  the  pack  and  then  frozen  into 
a  floe  ten  or  twelve  feet  and  upwards  in  thickness  ;  and 
to  whatever  thickness  such  a  formation  is  continued 
the  freezing  and  consolidation  of  the  whole  into  a 
compact  mass  of  ice  takes  place  at  all  depths,  for  it  is 
remarkable  that  only  once  have  we  found  a  cavity 
denoting  where  a  hollow,  left  when  the  pieces  com- 
posing the  floe  were  first  pressed  together,  has  not 
become  filled  up.  In  more  southern  latitudes,  where 
such  cold  water  is  not  found  at  the  same  depth,  similar 
cavities  remain  unchanged. 

'  In  the  middle  of  each  of  the  large  shore  lakes  we 
find  very  thick  ancient  ice ;  whether  it  is  frozen  to  the 
bottom  or  not  we  have  no  means  of  ascertaining  ;  but 
it  is  apparently  immovable  by  the  wind.  Near  the 
shore  the  inpour  of  heated  water  during  the  summer  is 
sufficient  to  prevent  its  growth  at  a  less  depth  than 
eight  feet.  During  the  winter  the  ice  newly  formed 
near  the  border  of  the  lake  by  the  natural  freezing  of 


1876  FROZEN  LAKES.  59 

the  water  only  attains  a  thickness  of  about  seven  feet. 
Last  winter  the  mean  temperature  of  the  atmosphere 
for  two  months  was  as  low  as  minus  39°,  more  than 
seventy  degrees  colder  than  the  quiescent  water  left- 
unfrozen  below  the  ice. 

4  To  what  extent  the  seven  feet  of  ice  and  its  cover- 
ing, two  feet  in  depth,  of  such  a  slow  conductor  as 
snow,  prevents  the  escape  of  warmth  from  the  water 
below,  which  must  take  place  before  the  ice  can  form, 
is  an  interesting  question.  During  the  winter  a  ther- 
mometer buried  eighteen  inches  in  the  frozen  ground 
registered  a  minimum  temperature  of  minus  12°.  For 
fifty-three  consecutive  days  the  mean  temperature  of 
the  air  was  minus  44° ;  which  gives  the  large  difference 
of  32°  as  being  due  to  eighteen  inches  of  frozen  soil 
and  ice.' 

Doctor  Moss,  a  very  careful  observer,  after  a  close 
study  of  the  Polar  floes,  differs  from  me  regarding  their 
formation.  As  the  subject  is  highly  interesting  I 
append  the  following  remarks  which  express  his  con- 
clusions : — 

'  The  neve-like  stratification,  the  imbedded  atmo- 
spheric dust,  and  the  chemical  characters  of  our  Polar 
floes  indicate,  in  my  opinion,  that  they  are  the  accu- 
mulated snow-fall  of  ages  rendered  brackish  by  infil- 
tration and  efflorescence. 

6  Until  Sir  George  Nares  showed  me  the  part  of  his 
MS.  treating  of  the  growth  of  the  Polar  floes,  I  had  no 
idea  that  the  universality  of  their  stratification  would 
be  at  all  called  in  question.  My  notes  were,  therefore, 
not  made  to  prove  this  point,  and  yet  I  find  amongst 
them  nine  sketches  made  from  nature  of  floebergs  in 


60  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR  SEA.  JULY 

the  neighbourhood  of  H.M.S.  "  Alert's"  winter-quarters, 
and  four  sketched  on  sledge  journeys,  all  showing 
stratification.  The  lower  part  of  the  floes  did  not 
exhibit  stratification,  and  consequently  a  few  apparent 
exceptions  occurred  in  overturned  or  much  tilted  floe- 
bergs.  Some  authorities,  such  as  Wrangell  ("  Wrangell," 
edited  by  Sabine,  appendix)  and  Belcher  ("  Last  of  the 
Arctic  Voyages,"  p.  101)  have  attributed  the  thickness 
and  the  stratification  of  ice  seen  by  them  to  the  sliding 
up  of  one  floe  over  another ;  but  in  our  ice,  the  extent 
and  evenness  of  the  stratification,  and  the  invariable 
progressive  reduction  in  the  depth  of  the  strata  from 
above  downward  to  their  final  disappearance  below 
precisely  as  in  glacier  neve,  cannot  be  thus  accounted 
for. 

'  The  saltness  of  the  Polar  floes,  notwithstanding 
the  (I  think)  irresistible  evidence  of  their  growth  by 
annual  snow-fall,  is  to  be  accounted  for  by  infiltration 
and  freezing  of  sea  water  as  the  spongy  snow-ice  sinks 
season  by  season,  and  to  a  very  large  extent  by  the. 
rapid  diffusion  of  briny  efflorescence  from  frozen  sea- 
water  crushed  up  in  cracks.  We  often  had  uncomfort- 
able evidence  of  this  diffusion  in  our  sledging  tea. 

'  In  April  and  May  the  passage  of  snow  into  ice  was 
experimentally  determined  to  take  place  through  the 
growth  of  the  deeper,  and  therefore  colder,  crystals 
at  the  expense  of  the  superficial.  Later  on  an  inverse 
process  helps  the  wind  to  harden  the  surface  snow  into 
a  layer  which  remains  distinct  from  succeeding 
snowfalls. 

'  The  birthplace  and  nursery  of  Polar  floes  is  not, 
in  my  opinion,  near  land,  because  in  our  experience 


1&76  DR.   MOSS   ON  POLAR   ICE.  61 

waste  exceeds  growth  near  shores.  The  great  "  domed  " 
floes  tell  of  gradual  decay,  because  whenever  we  got 
a  section  of  them  the  horizontal  strata  were  cut  by  the 
outline  of  the  domes,  and  the  ice  of  the  top  of  the 
dome  was  invariably  salt. 

'  Occasionally  deposits  of  atmospheric  dust  were  to 
be  met  with  throughout  the  stratified  ice,  sometimes 
scattered  in  very  minute  points  which,  when  examined, 
proved  to  be  air-cells  coated  with  the  impalpable  dust 
sometimes  occurring  in  comparatively  conspicuous 
quantities  in  lines  cutting  the  stratification  and  marking 
what  had  once  been  the  bottom  of  a  "  superglacial 
lake."  (Parry,  Fourth  Voyage.) 

'  Similar  dust  was  to  be  found  on  the  present 
surface  of  the  floes  occasionally  greatly  magnified  in 
appearance  by  the  growth  amongst  it  of  an  Alga, 
identified  by  Professor  Dickie  as  Nostoc  aureum.  The 
dust  often  occurred  in  little  granules,  so  that  in  mass  it 
formed  an  oolite.  Opposite  the  Humboldt  Glacier  I 
obtained  similar  oolitic  dust,  but  totally  devoid  of  Alga, 
from  the  melted  ice  of  a  large  iceberg  stratified  with 
innumerable  perfectly  parallel  strata  only  four  inches 
in  depth.  All  the  specimens  of  ice-dust  obtained  by 
me  from  the  floebergs  are  undoubtedly  the  air-carried 
debris  of  crystalline  rock  not  traceable  to  the  neigh- 
bouring shore.' 

During  one  of  Dr.  Moss's  journeys  he  met  with  a 
very  large  floeberg,  which  had  been  forced  up  by 
pressure  on  a  shallow  bank  close  to  William's  Island  ; 
he  thus  describes  it : — 

'  It  deserves  special  mention  as  a  type  of  its  class. 
It  stood,  a  huge  rectangular  mass,  forty  feet  high 


62  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR   SEA.  JULY 

above  the  floe.  Its  lower  fifteen  feet  were  of  un- 
stratiiied  blue  ice,  enclosing  yellow  patches  of  surface 
salt-water  diatomaceae  between  spaces  of  ice  with  their 
lines  of  air-cells  differently  inclined.  The  remaining 
twenty-five  feet  was  banded  with  eighteen  of  the  usual 
white  and  blue  horizontal  layers — white  where  the  ice 
is  spongy  with  air-cells,  blue  in  the  denser  layers  above 
and  below.  The  height  was  too  great  to  detect 
"  dust-bands."  Above  all,  and  covered  only  by  the 
surface-snow,  were  sections  in  olive-tinted  ice  of  what 
had  once  been  surface-pools.' 

It  is  a  question  with  me  whether  this  may  not 
have  been  a  piece  of  ice  formed  in  an  enclosed  sea  like 
Clements  Markham  Inlet,  where  the  floes  do  probably 
increase  superficially. 

In  Captain  Markham's  journey  over  the  Polar  pack 
during  the  spring,  he  and  Lieutenant  Parr  were 
directed  to  endeavour  to  obtain  information  concern- 
ing the  creation  and  yearly  change  of  the  aged  floes, 
and  to  ascertain,  if  possible,  whether  the  surface-snow 
became  transformed  into  ice  or  not  either  by  pres- 
sure or  otherwise.  On  their  return  Captain  Markham 
reported  as  follows  : — 

'  The  opportunities  for  observations  in  the  trans- 
formation of  snow  into  ice  on  the  surface  of  the  floes 
were  rare,  and  only  occurred  when  a  floe  appeared  to 
have  been  recently  broken  up,  arid  without  having  had 
hummocks  and  snow-drifts  piled  round  its  edges.  In 
these  cases,  the  section  of  the  snow  was  as  sharp  as  that 
of  the  ice,  and  followed  all  its  irregularities. 

'Lieutenant  Parr  was  most  assiduous  in  his  re- 
searches into  this  interesting  subject,  and  I  am  much 


1876  GROWTH  OF   POLAR   ICE.  63 

indebted  to  him  for  placing  at  my  disposal  the  infor- 
mation he  acquired  on  this  matter. 

'  The  general  depth  of  the  snow  was  from  two  and- 
a-half  to  three  feet,  the  upper  portion,  underneath  the 
surface  crust,  consisting  of  loose  grains  of  about  the  size 
of  rifle  fine-grain  powder,  and  without  the  least  co- 
herency ;  these  gradually  increased  in  size,  till  about 
two-thirds  of  the  way  down  they  were  as  large  as  rifle 
large-grain  powder,  but  still  separate.  Below  this, 
however,  the  grains  began  to  unite  and  to  form  very 
porous  ice,  till,  at  the  actual  point  of  junction  with  the 
floe,  it  was  very  difficult  to  draw  the  line  of  demar- 
cation. In  all  cases  the  ice  on  the  surface  of  the  floes 
had  evidently  been  formed  in  the  same  manner,  for  it 
was  full  of  air  holes,  though  not  nearly  to  so  great  an 
extent  as  that  which  was  in  process  of  formation. 

'  The  conversion  of  snow  into  ice  was  not  confined 
to  the  surface  of  the  heavy  floes,  for  in  making  our 
roads  through  the  hummocks,  we  frequently  came 
across  pieces  of  snow- ice  which  had  been  formed  round 
some  of  them,  and  used  it  for  cooking  purposes. 

'  Digging  down  into  the  snow  gave  the  same  results, 
for  we  could  always  get  the  porous  ice,  and  found  it 
very  convenient  for  cooking.  On  one  occasion  the 
surface  of  a  small  floe  on  which  we  were  encamped 
was  composed  of  separate  pieces  of  ice,  about  the  size 
of  a  penknife,  placed  end  up,  and  covered  with  snow, 
but  without  apparently  being  joined  together  in  the 
slightest  degree. 

6  In  one  case,  also,  we  found  a  section  of  a  drift 
seven  feet  thick  at  the  highest  point,  which  was  divided 
into  three  equal  parts  by  two  layers  of  ice  half  an 


64  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  JULY 

inch  thick ;  the  lower  portion  being  nearly  converted 
into  ice,  the  middle  not  to  such  an  extent,  while  the 
upper  had  only  just  commenced.  On  some  of  the 
floes  large  isolated  pieces  of  ice  would  be  protruding, 
and  in  these  cases,  when  tried  for  cooking  purposes, 
were  found  perfectly  fresh ;  though  they  must  evidently 
have  originally  been  salt,  and  had  no  appearance  of 
having  had  snow  drifted  up  round  them,  which  must 
either  have  been  the  case,  or  else  the  briny  matter 
must  have  melted  out  of  them  during  previous  summers 
and  left  that  which  was  fresh.  How  far  the  thaw 
affected  the  snow  on  the  floes  we  could  not  tell,  for 
though  the  hummocks  had  got  soft  before  we  were 
clear  of  them,  the  snow  seemed  to  be  very  little 
affected.' 

4 1th. — As  the  land  becomes  bare  of  snow,  pieces  of 
drift-wood  are  exposed  to  view,  and  tracks  of  musk- 
oxen  are  common ;  but  as  a  footstep  once  formed 
in  the  mud  would  take  many  years  before  it  became 
obliterated,  they  do  not  lead  us  to  hope  that  we  shall 
be  visited  by  much  game. 

'  This  afternoon  we  have  experienced  our  first 
shower  of  rain  this  season.  The  carpenters  are  em- 
ployed caulking  the  upper-deck ;  the  seams  above 
those  parts  of  the  lower-deck  which  remained  dry 
during  the  winter  are  very  open. 

'  9th. — The  temperature  of  the  sea-surface  was 
observed  to  be  32°'4  ;  at  a  depth  of  six  and  nine  feet, 
31  °-  8  ;  between  twelve  feet  and  the  bottom  in  twelve 
fathoms  it  was  29°*0.  The  very  marked  change  of 
nearly  two  degrees  between  the  water  at  a  depth  of 
nine  and  that  at  twelve  feet  is  evidently  due  to  the 


1876  CAPE   SHERIDAN   WATER-COURSE.  65 

meeting  of  the  fresh- water  running  off  the  melting  ice 
and  the  sea-water. 

'  In  all  the  open  cracks  a  feathery  efflorescence  is 
observed  clinging  to  the  ice  below  the  surface  of  the 
water.  As  the  warm  snow-water  at  a  slight  depth 
becomes  cooled  through  meeting  with  the  cold  sea- 
water  below  it,  fine  ice  crystals  are  formed,  which  con- 
tinually rise  to  the  surface  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
form  a  thin  superficial  layer  of  ice,  which  must  be  con- 
stantly melting  and  being  replenished  with  ice  rising 
from  below. 

'  IQth. — On  this  day  Dr.  Hayes  broke  out  of  winter- 
quarters  at  Port  Foulke,  the  earliest  day  that  any  ship 
has  ever  cleared  the  ice. 

'  The  pack-ice  has  now  become  completely  detached 
from  the  grounded  ice,  and  only  waits  for  the  general 
break-up.  An  open  or  close  season  depends  entirely 
on  the  strength  of  the  prevailing  winds  at  this  period : 
every  southerly  gale  will  bring  the  navigable  water 
nearer  to  us.  In  1853  no  water  was  visible  from  the 
winter-quarters  of  the  "  Eesolute  "  at  Melville  Island 
until  the  17th  of  August ;  but  this  is  the  latest  date 
that  any  vessel  has  been  ice-locked  unless  the  pack 
remained  fast  the  whole  season. 

<  \\tti. — We  are  watering  the  ship  by  pumping 
from  a  shore  stream.  A  large  shooting-party  left  for 
the  neighbourhood  of  Dumbell  Lakes ;  they  expe- 
rienced great  trouble  in  crossing  the  Cape  Sheridan 
Eavine,  the  stream  being  two  feet  deep  and  eighty  feet 
in  breadth,  and  running  with  great  velocity.  At  its 
mouth  the  sea-wall  is  so  solid  that  the  water  cannot 
escape  directly  to  the  sea,  but  is  deflected  towards  the 
VOL.  n.  F 


66  VOYAGE  TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  JULY 

south  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  it  can  force 
a  passage  for  itself.  The  debris  brought  down  by  the 
torrent  is  being  deposited  on  the  land  side  of  the  ice 
wall  as  a  raised  beach,  and  it  apparently  accumulates 
as  readily  above  ice  as  above  gravel.  Wherever  it 
does  so  to  more  than  about  a  foot  in  thickness — the 
limited  depth  of  the  summer  thaw — there  the  ice  must 
remain  and  become  a  component  part  of  the  raised 
beach.* 

Dr.  Ninnis,  at  Discovery  Bay,  on  the  23rd  of  June 
succeeded  in  sinking  a  shaft,  five  feet  deep,  at  a 
position  twenty  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  about  fifty 
yards  inshore,  in  order  to  lay  an  earth  thermometer. 
After  cutting  his  way  through  four  feet  of  fragments  of 
rock  and  pebbles,  he  came  to  a  layer  of  solid  fresh- 
water ice,  into  which  a  hole  was  picked  for  a  depth  of 
one  foot  without  reaching  the  bottom  of  the  stratum 
of  ice. 

'  While  the  formation  of  a  raised  beach  inside  of 
the  ice-formed  compact  sea-wall  stretching  along  the 
shore  is  very  evident,  it  is  difficult  to  explain  why,  with 
a  gradual  and  continuous  rise  of  the  land,  such  ancient 
formations  are  afterwards  met  with  as  a  series  of 
steps ;  but  as  the  height  of  each  step  increases,  and  the 
number  decrease  with  the  increasing  steepness  of  the 
shore,  probably  the  beaches  now  exposed  are  only 
that  part  of  the  original  accumulation  not  carried 
down  to  a  lower  level  or  worn  away  by  the  weather. 

'  In  addition  to  the  boulders  and  debris  which  fall 
from  the  cliffs  during  the  thaw,  and  those  washed  down 
by  the  summer  torrents,  which  by  collecting  inside  of 
the  ice- wall  form  a  raised  terrace  with  a  steep  drop  to 


1876  FORMATION   OF  A    RAISED   BEACH.  67 

seaward,  each  heavy  piece  of  the  passing  ice  planes  off 
the  sea  floor  immediately  outside  of  the  wall,  and  thus 
assists  in  the  first  formation  of  the  step. 

'  The  thaw  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  United 
States  Eange  is  considerably  in  advance  of  that  in  this 
neighbourhood.  Here  the  purple  saxifrage  is  now  in 
blossom,  and  the  sloping  grounds  are  fairly  carpeted 
with  its  bright  patches.  The  Arctic  plants  that  have 
been  sheltered  during  the  winter  by  the  snow  have 
their  seed-pods  left  on  them ;  seeds  are  therefore 
readily  obtainable.  A  few  patches  of  dwarf  sorrel  are 
commencing  to  sprout,  and  grasses  are  appearing  in 
very  favoured  places. 

4  Mr.  White  has  shot  a  snowy  owl,  and  brought  on 
board  its  six  young  ones  and  one  egg  from  the  nest.' 

At  Discovery  Bay  seven  owlets  were  obtained  on 
the  29th  of  June.  These  birds  were  kept  alive  and 
thrived  well,  being  fed  on  preserved  meat  and  a  few 
boatswain  birds  which  happened  to  be  obtainable  at 
the  time,  until  the  damp  weather  was  met  with  on  the 
passage  home,  when  they  all  died. 

'  ~L2th. — A  crack  in  the  ice  half  a  mile  in  length, 
extending  to  the  north-east  from  Cape  Eawson,  was 
observed  by  Dr.  Moss. 

'  Our  complexions  are  now  very  different  from  their 
blanched  appearance  during  the  winter.  Owing  to  the 
constant  sunlight  and  intense  glare,  we  are  as  brown  as 
if  we  had  been  exposed  to  a  tropical  sun.  It  is  remark- 
able how  considerably  the  constant  sunlight  had 
bleached  the  hair  on  the  travellers'  faces  during  the 
recent  journeys. 

4 152/1.— -Owing  to  the  danger  of  being  carried  off 

f  2 


68  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR  SEA.  JULY 

our  feet  by  the  stream  when  attempting  to  ford  the 
Cape  Sheridan  Ravine.  I  have  caused  a  boat  to  be 
moored  with  lines  to  either  shore  for  the  help  of  any- 
one crossing. 

*  Mr.  Egerton  left  with  a  strong  party  of  men  to 
bring  back  the  two  boats  advanced  last  autumn,  but 
which  have  not  been  used.  He  will  make  easy 
journeys,  as  several  of  the  men  are  convalescents  and 
have  been  sent  in  the  hope  of  their  obtaining  fresh 
meat. 

4  To-day  there  was  a  very  slight  motion  towards 
the  east  in  the  outer  pack.' 

On  the  8th  of  July  Captain  Stephenson  observed 
pools  of  water  in  Hall's  Basin  and  Lady  Franklin 
Sound.  On  the  15th  Lieutenant  Fulford  crossed  Hall's 
Basin  from  Polaris  to  Discovery  Bay,  and  found  the  ice 
stationary  until  he  arrived  within  two  miles  of  the 
west  shore  ;  there  he  came  to  broken-up  ice  in  motion, 
across  which  he  had  a  difficulty  in  reaching  the  shore 
with  his  sledge  crew. 

On  the  18th  St.  Patrick's  Bay  was  nearly  clear  of 
ice,  and  on  the  20th  pools  of  water  were  seen  extend- 
ing across  Kennedy  Channel  from  Joe  Island  to  Cape 
Lieber. 

« ~L6th. — The  water  which  last  week  was  observed 
to  have  collected  in  pools  on  the  aged  Polar  floes  has 
now  drained  off.  In  the  hollows  there  is  left  a 
columnar  structure  like  the  "penknife  ice"  of  Sir 
Edward  Parry,  and  that  described  by  Sir  John 
Eichardson  as  formed  on  the  surface  of  fresh-water 
ice  by  the  summer  thaw.  The  columns  are  from  one 
to  six  inches  in  height,  but  as  large  collections  of  snow 


1876  PENKNIFE   ICE.  69 

are  still  left  unmelted,  and  the  ice  has  not  ceased  drain- 
ing, this  measurement  will  probably  be  increased.  Sir 
Edward  Parry,  in  1827,  met  with  some  fourteen  inches 
in  length  on  the  12th  of  July,  and  eighteen  inches  in 
length  on  the  16th  of  July. 

'While  the  formation  of  "penknife  ice"  is  thus 
very  apparent,  a  somew^hat  similar  formation  is  taking 
place  as  the  snow  decays  by  reflected  heat. 

'  Early  in  the  spring,  wherever  the  stratification  of 
the  snow  covering  a  floe  had  become  exposed  at  a 
newly  formed  crack,  the  lower  portion  of  the  snow  was 
observed  to  have  granulated,  the  grains  collecting 
together  perpendicularly,  the  lower  ones  being  the 
largest  and  leaving  intermediate  air-spaces  ;  the  whole 
structure  giving  promise  that  during  the  summer  it 
would  assume  the  columnar  appearance  like  the  so- 
called  "  penknife  ice,"  which  the  surface  of  many  of  the 
Polar  floes  showed  had  been  formed  during  a  previous 
season.' 

While  the  surface  of  the  floes  usually  consisted  of 
slightly  brackish  compact  ice,  in  many  cases  we  found 
it  composed  of  vertical  columns  of  brackish  ice  half  an 
inch  in  diameter  and  about  twelve  inches  in  height, 
rising  from  a  foundation  of  solid  ice,  and  having  light 
snow  intermixed  with  them  ;  these  were  supported  at 
the  top  by  a  thin  horizontal  network  of  ice,  and  the 
whole  covered  with  the  usual  layer  of  snow,  varying  in 
thickness  according  to  the  locality. 

'  In  a  few  cases  we  observed  a  double  set  of  such 
inverted  icicle-like  columns,  one  above  the  other, 
divided  by  a  horizontal  layer  of  clear  ice  about  four 
inches  in  thickness,  and  containing  air-drops.  In  the 


70         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        JULY 

compact  ice  the  dust-line  was  in  all  cases  below  the 
lowest  line  of  columns.  All  the  ice  of  this  and  a  similar 
nature  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Floeberg  Beach  melted 
quickly  immediately  the  thaw  had  removed  the  upper 
stratum  of  snow.  But  in  the  Polar  pack  where  the 
snow  does  not  all  melt  during  the  summer,  the  same 
formation,  if  protected,  may  outlast  the  season. 

'  17th. — From  the  summit  of  Cape  Eawson  we  can 
observe  three  cracks  in  the  ice  extending  from  the 
shore  to  a  distance  of  about  four  miles  towards  the 
north-east,  where  they  are  lost  to  sight.  This  indicates 
a  decided  movement  in  the  ice,  and  we  are  wondering 
whether  the  final  break-up  will  come  from  the  south- 
ward up  Eobeson  Channel  or  from  the  eastward  round 
the  north  of  Greenland. 

"  There  is  very  little  snow  left  unmelted  on  the 
hillsides  facing  Eobeson  Channel,  and  the  ravines  are 
running  much  slower.  Charr  have  been  discovered  in 
the  lake  at  Cape  Sheridan.  They  are  feeding  on  black 
midges  wrhich  are  lying  on  the  surface  of  the  water  in 
such  large  numbers  that  the  fish  will  not  rise  to  any 
other  bait.  Feilden  and  Parr  returned  from  a  shooting 
excursion  to  the  north-west.  The  former  has  made  a 
rich  collection,  but  has  not  succeeded  in  finding  the 
wished-for  nest  of  the  knot.  A  considerable  quan- 
tity of  drift-wood  has  been  met  with  on  the  beaches  of 
each  bay  open  towards  the  north-west,  as  we  expected 
would  be  the  case. 

'  18th. — Our  invalids  are  improving  fast ;  there  are 
now  only  twenty-two  under  Dr.  Colan's  care,  eight  of 
whom  are  confined  to  bed.  A  large  party  of  con- 
valescents hauled  the  seine  in  the  Cape  Sheridan  Lake, 


1876  BREAK   UP   OF   THE   PACK.  71 

and  succeeded  in  catching  forty-three  charr,  weighing 
in  all  about  seven  pounds — a  very  good  haul ;  like 
every  other  dainty  they  were  given  to  the  sick. 

'  l$th. — The  pack  is  very  slightly  in  motion  ;  a 
crack  has  formed  parallel  with  the  shore  at  a  distance 
of  half  a  mile.  The  temperature  of  the  water  at  the 
surface  was  3 2° '5  ;  between  a  depth  of  nine  feet  and 
the  bottom  in  forty-six  fathoms  it  was  29°. 

'Dr.  Moss  shot  a  hare  and  two  geese,  a  very 
welcome  addition  to  the  fresh  provisions.  During  the 
last  few  days  the  convalescents  have  been  able  to 
gather  a  small  daily  ration  of  dwarf  sorrel  sufficient  for 
their  sick  comrades. 

'  20th. — I  started  for  Cape  Union  to  look  at  the 
state  of  the  ice  in  Eobeson  Channel ;  Parr  and  Giffard, 
with  Frederick  and  the  dogs,  accompanied  me. 

'  Although  we  travelled  when  it  was  low-water  in 
order  to  obtain  as  dry  a  road  as  possible  inside  the  ice- 
barrier,  we  had  hard  work  to  get  the  very  light  sledge 
along,  having  to  travel  for  nearly  half  the  journey  over 
either  wet  snow  or  the  gravel  itself. 

'  As  we  opened  Eobeson  Channel  we  found  that 
although  the  pack  in  the  offing  was  stationary,  between 
it  and  the  land  the  ice  for  a  breadth  of  nearly  a  mile 
was  broken  up  and  moving  slowly  with  the  tide,  nipping 
against  the  shore-hummocks  and  the  outer  pack.  Parr 
shot  two  dovekies  in  a  pool  of  water  about  a  mile 
south  of  Cape  Eawson.  With  the  exception  of  a  single 
example  seen  by  Feilden  in  lat.  82°  30'  N.  these  are 
the  only  ones  we  have  observed  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  winter-quarters.  Seven  geese  and  a  hare  were  shot 


72         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        JULY 

near  Black  Cape  ;  three  young  geese  newly  hatched 
were  seen  near  the  nests. 

'  After  being  detained  by  a  fog  for  a  few  hours, 
Giffard  and  I  ascended  Cape  Union,  and  from  the 
summit,  1,600  feet  above  the  sea,  obtained  a  mag- 
nificent and  extended  view.  The  atmosphere  being 
unusually  clear — the  precursor  of  a  coming  storm— 
Cape  Cracroft  and  Cape  Bryant,  the  two  cliffy  portals  of 
Kennedy  Channel,  sixty  and  seventy-five  miles  distant, 
were  distinctly  visible.  The  ice  in  Hall's  Basin  and 
Robeson  Channel  had  evidently  only  just  commenced 
to  break  up,  for  in  mid-channel  it  still  remained 
compact ;  but  on  either  side,  between  the  pack  and 
the  land,  was  a  border  of  broken-up  floes  about  two 
miles  in  breadth.  Water- pools  were  to  be  seen  off 
Cape  Brevoort,  Cape  Lupton,  and  all  the  prominent 
points  towards  the  south,  and  a  strong  w^ater-sky  over 
Kennedy  Channel. 

'  There  were  also  a  few  disconnected  water-pools 
near  the  land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cape  Stanton 
and  in  the  northern  pack  ;  these  would  denote  that  the 
disruption  in  the  ice  had  come  both  from  the  north- 
east and  the  southward  at  about  the  same  time. 

'  A  decided  ice-cap  was  observed  above  the  land 
at  the  bottom  of  Newman  Bay ;  also  one  inshore  of 
Cape  Britannia,  far  away  towards  the  north-east. 

'  In  the  evening  the  wind  freshened  from  the  west- 
ward and  forced  the  ice  away  from  the  west  coast, 
leaving  a  water-channel,  about  half  a  mile  in  breadth, 
extending  from  Cape  Eawson  southward  to  an  un- 
known distance.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  ship 


1876  MUSK-OXEN   SHOT.  73 

the  ice  outside  the  barrier  of  floebergs  moved  off  for 
about  fifty  yards. 

'  As  each  floeberg  must  have  been  considerably 
lightened  by  the  summer's  thaw,  they  are  now  liable 
to  be  forced  in  nearer  towards  the  land  by  the  first 
decided  pressure.  I  am  consequently  rather  anxious 
about  the  ship  ;  however,  the  ice  between  her  and  the 
land  is  so  much  decayed  that  I  doubt  its  being  able  to 
damage  her  much ;  but  if  forced  up  on  shore  we  shall 
have  heavy  work  with  our  few  able-bodied  men. 

'  23rd. — The  invalids  are  continuing  their  recovery, 
but  slowly :  there  are  yet  twenty  men  under  the 
doctor's  care,  ten  of  whom  are  more  or  less  confined 
to  their  beds — one  wholly  so.  While  returning  to  the 
ship  yesterday,  the  rough  gravel  road  over  which  we 
were  obliged  to  journey,  between  the  ice-foot  and  the 
cliffs,  after  first  wearing  out  the  steel  runners,  com- 
pletely destroyed  the  sledge  by  the  time  we  had  arrived 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  ship. 

6  A  south-west  gale  is  blowing,  and  has  driven  the 
pack  off  shore  for  a  distance  of  about  a  mile — the 
water-channel  reaching  to  Cape  Sheridan,  whence  a 
crack  extends  two  or  three  miles  in  the  direction  of 
Cape  Joseph  Henry.  There  the  ice  is  only  now 
breaking  up,  a  day  or  two  later  than  that  to  the  east- 
ward. 

4  Mr.  Egerton  returned  this  evening  with  the  two 
boats  from  Cape  Belknap.  He  brings  back  282  pounds 
of  beef,  the  remains  of  two  musk-oxen  shot  by  the 
officers  at  Dumbell  Lakes,  and  seventeen  geese — a  very 
acceptable  supply,  our  former  stock  of  fresh  meat 
having  been  all  consumed. 


74  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  JULY 

'  Many  pieces  of  drift-wood  have  been  met  with, 
particularly  in  the  bays  open  towards  the  north-west ; 
but  only  in  one  such  favoured  locality,  where  the 
drift  would  naturally  collect  after  getting  into  the  eddy 
current  to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  was 
there  sufficient  for  Egerton  to  have  supplied  his  sledge 
with  firewood. 

'  It  is  somewhat  remarkable  that  the  wood  is  only 
found  near  the  margin  of  the  sea  and  in  the  lake-beds  : 
it  would  appear  that  if  left  exposed  it  rots  away,  but 
when  buried  below  the  frozen  muddy  soil  it  remains 
undecayed  for  ages. 

'  Naturally  where  the  wood  has  collected  in  the 
largest  quantities  ice-borne  rocky  boulders  are  also 
found  on  the  shore. 

'  In  Hilgard  Bay.  open  to  the  north-west,  Mr. 
Egerton  reports : — 

'  "  On  the  eastern  shore  of  the  inner  part  of  this  bay 
there  were  great  quantities  of  drift-wood,  pieces  of  all 
sizes,  varying  from  fifteen  feet  in  length  to  a  foot,  but 
apparently  all  of  the  same  description.  Most  of  the 
pieces  were  lying  on  the  surface,  but  some  were 
slightly  covered  with  soil.  I  found  pieces  forty  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  water.  One  tree,  lying  close 
above  the  water's  edge,  was  about  fifteen  feet  long 
and  twelve  inches  in  diameter  at  its  thickest  part. 
The  shore  was  generally  covered  with  shells  to  a 
height  of  twenty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water,  but 
in  places  considerably  higher.  All  the  shells  were  of 
one  or  two  kinds.  On  the  north-east  point  of  the  bay, 
I  came  upon  a  pile  of  rocks  which  looked  like  an  old 
ruin  about  forty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Upon 


1876  DRIFT-WOOD.  75 

examination  I  found  these  rocks  full  of  fossils,  speci- 
mens of  which  I  brought  on  board.  These  rocks  must 
have  been  transported  there  by  ice,  as  they  are  of  a  totally 
different  nature  from  that  of  the  surrounding  strata." 

'  In  considering  former  reports  of  the  finding  of 
fossil  wood,  and  trees  said  to  be  in  situ,  it  is  noticeable 
that  the  positions  where  such  petrifactions  and  stumps 
of  trees  have  been  found,  not  excepting  the  case  re- 
ported by  Sir  Edward  Belcher  ('  Last  Arctic  Voyage,' 
vol.  i.'p.  380),  are  all  in  the  near  neighbourhood  of 
where  the  water-currents  are  now  collecting  drift- 
timber,  and  whither  we  would  expect  them  to  have 
borne  it  when  the  land  was  at  a  lower  level  than  it  is 
at  present,  which  all  the  data  in  our  possession  proves 
to  have  been  the  case  in  very  recent  geological  times. 

4  With  calm  weather  the  pack  has  closed  in  again. 
There  is  a  very  slow  movement  in  it  towards  the  east- 
ward during  the  flood-tide — none  towards  the  west 
with  the  ebb ;  but  although  it  is  quiet  here,  with  a 
sluggish  current,  the  ice  to  the  southward  of  the 
narrow  funnel-shaped  Eobeson  Channel  must  be  drift- 
ing quickly  towards  Kane's  Sea. 

'  Parr  has  commenced  to  clear  away  a  passage 
through  our  floeberg  barrier.  I  am  afraid  to  open  the 
channel  completely,  lest  heavier  ice  should  drift  into  the 
vacancy  left. 

4  The  gravel  and  cinders  spread  out  over  the  ice 
have  now  eaten  their  way  through  :  this  is  a  week  later 
in  the  season  than  when  the  same  thing  occurred  at 
Melville  Island  in  1853. 

'  26#A. — Yesterday,  in  consequence  of  a  slight 
movement  in  the  ice,  the  ship  became  upright  once 


76         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        JULY 

more ;  but  she  is  still  borne  up  about  two  feet  above 
her  ordinary  draught  of  water. 

'  The  last  of  the  stores  have  been  embarked  from 
the  shore,  and  we  are  now  ready  to  start  south  at  a 
few  hours'  notice.  Mr.  Wootton  is  naturally  anxious 
to  try  the  engines  after  their  having  been  dismantled 
during  the  winter ;  but  owing  to  our  reduced  stock 
of  coal  I  cannot  spare  him  any  for  the  purpose,  and 
trust  that  everything  will  be  correct  when  the  order 
is  given  to  start. 

'  Great  trouble  has  been  experienced  in  fixing  the 
screw  ;  like  in  the  autumn,  when  lowered  to  its  right 
position,  the  shaft  could  not  be  entered  to  within  three 
inches  of  the  end :  we  have  now  discovered  this  to  be 
caused  by  an  accumulation  of  ice  in  the  boss  of  the 
screw.  The  nearly  fresh- water  at  the  sea  surface  at  a 
temperature  slightly  above  32°,  carried  down  inside 
the  screw-hole  to  the  colder  and  salter  stratum  below 
at  a  temperature  of  29°,  became  quickly  frozen  and 
plugged  the  screw  before  the  shaft  could  be  entered, 
By  removing  the  plate  at  the  after  end,  and  lowering 
the  screw  down  slowly,  after  it  had  been  thoroughly 
warmed  in  the  air  at  a  temperature  of  40°,  and  thus 
permitting  the  salt-water  to  take  the  place  of  the  fresh 
more  readily,  the  difficulty  was  overcome. 

'  A  notice  paper  has  been  placed  inside  the  cairn 
on  the  summit  of  the  look-out  hill.  It  contains  full 
information  of  our  doings,  with  the  names  of  all  the 
officers  and  ships'  company s  of  the  two  vessels.  The 
notice  is  written  in  indian  ink  and  placed  inside  a  glass 
tube  closed  at  each  end  over  a  spirit  lamp — it  should 
last  for  ages. 


1876  RECORD   DEPOSITED.  77 

4  27/A.— To-day  Parr  exploded  a  forty-three  pound 
jar  of  powder  under  a  heavy  piece  of  ice  closing  our 
door  of  exit  through  the  barrier.  The  effect  was  very 
great,  and  proves  that  we  can  make  our  escape  at 
pleasure  when  the  outer  ice  eases  off;  always  provided 
that  no  new  floebergs  become  stranded.' 

As  gunpowder  only  explodes  upwards,  gun-cotton 
is  a  far  more  effective  auxiliary  in  ice  navigation.  It 
is  now  stated  that  there  is  no  danger  in  carrying  it  to 
cold  climates  or  in  permitting  it  to  become  frozen. 

'  The  generality  of  the  crew  are  far  more  knowing 
concerning  the  removal  of  ice  than  they  were  last  year, 
and  when  clearing  away  a  quantity  of  rubble  do  not 
expend  their  strength  by  pushing  at  the  crown  of  an 
arch,  as  they  used  to  do  ;  but  many  of  them  still 
imagine  that  force  alone  is  required. 

4  Through  careless  work  in  digging  it  out,  the  earth 
thermometer  was  broken.  The  earth  was  frozen  at  a 
depth  of  one  foot :  the  temperature  registering  30° 
previous  to  the  accident.  The  depth  of  one  foot  may 
therefore  be  accepted  as  the  greatest  thickness  of  the 
unfrozen  soil  during  the  summer. 

4  29#/i. — A  beautifully  calm  day  without  a  cloud 
in  the  light  blue  sky. 

4  From  the  summit  of  Cape  Eawson  I  observed 
that  the  large  "  crossing  floe  "  which  was  abreast  of 
Black  Cape  during  the  winter  has  drifted  three  or 
four  miles  towards  the  north,  proving  that  the  pre- 
vailing westerly  winds  are  sufficiently  powerful  to  act 
in  a  contrary  direction  to  the  southerly  running  current, 
and  so  prevent  the  heavy  ice  from  drifting  through 
Eobeson  Channel  as  readily  as  it  otherwise  would  do. 


78  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  JULY 

In  Kennedy  Channel  so  large  and  heavy  a  floe  as 
the  one  the  u  Polaris  "  people  fortunately  happened  to 
light  upon  is  rare. 

'  The  temperature  of  the  air  in  the  shade  remains 
at  about  40°.  Although  there  is  only  three  or  four 
degrees  difference  between  the  temperature  at  noon 
and  midnight,  it  is  yet  sensibly  hotter  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  and  the  run  of  water  in  the  ravines  is 
considerably  increased.  They  are  now  readily  ford- 
able,  and  it  evidently  freezes  nightly  in  the  higher 
lands.  In  a  fortnight's  time  the  warm  season  will  be 
over  and  everything  on  shore  will  be  permanently 
frozen  again. 

6  The  purple  carpet  of  saxifrage  profusely  spread 
over  the  ground  early  in  the  week,  in  consequence  of 
exposure  to  constant  sunlight  day  and  night,  has  lasted 
only  for  about  ten  days  ;  it  has  now  given  place  to  the 
bright  yellow  ranunculus  and  draba,  with  a  rich  sprink- 
ling of  the  more  delicate  tinted  poppy  and  mountain 
avens,  and  a  small  yellow  saxifrage.  In  the  richest 
clumps  of  vegetation  the  most  homely  flower  of  all, 
the  pretty  white  Cerastium  alpinum,  is  pleasantly  inter- 
spersed amongst  the  grass  and  mosses. 

6  Since  the  removal  of  the  snow  we  have  found  a 
considerable  quantity  of  dwarf  willow  spreading  out  its 
branches  along  the  ground  in  the  water-ways.  It 
would  appear  that  it  requires  greater  protection  from 
the  cold  than  the  hardier  saxifrage,  which  can  exist 
without  a  snow  covering. 

'  There  is  much  vegetation  still  covered  by  snow. 
I  cannot  think  it  dead,  as  even  at  this  late  season 
as  soon  as  a  patch  is  bared  by  the  thaw  it  gives 


1876  ARCTIC  VEGETATION.  79 

signs  of  life.  Such  being  the  case,  I  am  inclined  to 
suspect  that  plants  in  these  Arctic  climes  do  not  always 
become  developed  on  the  recurrence  of  each  warm 
season  ;  but  that  when  screened  from  the  life-giving 
rays  of  the  sun  they  can  remain  dormant  for  a  time, 
and  that  those  that  burst  into  life  too  late  to  become 
fully  developed  before  the  frost  sets  in  again,  being 
covered  and  protected  by  the  snow,  have  their  growth 
arrested  throughout  the  winter  and  remain  ready  to 
reawaken,  as  it  were,  to  a  further  term  of  development 
the  next  favourable  season. 

4  On  the  slopes  of  the  coast  hills,  protected  from 
the  prevailing  winter  winds,  where  the  drifted  snow 
collects  in  the  greatest  abundance,  a  considerable 
portion  will  certainly  remain  unmelted  at  the  end  of 
the  season.  A  quantity  will  also  be  left  on  the  level 
uplands.  Decaying  as  the  snow  does  underneath,  near 
the  earth,  by  reflected  heat,  as  well  as  by  direct  heat 
at  the  top,  the  formation  of  the  snow  layer  must  be 
constantly  changing.  The  oldest  snow  of  a  previous 
season  at  the  bottom  of  the  layer,  after  granulating 
into  ice,  melts  or  evaporates  in  the  air-space,  one 
or  two  inches  in  thickness,  between  the  snow  and  the 
land,  and  gives  place  to  a  more  recent  deposit  above 
it,  which  in  its  turn  settles  down  nearer  the  earth. 

'  When  walking  above  an  extensive  surface  of 
snow  it  readily  gives  way,  and  sinks  beneath  us  with 
a  muffled  noise,  not  only  immediately  under  our  feet, 
but  a  large  area  of  it  acting  in  combination — how 
large  we  cannot  say,  as  no  crack  is  visible  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

6  It  is  only  at  the  foot  of  the  snow  slopes  that  we 


80  VOYAGE  TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  JULY 

find  any  changed  into  actual  ice.  There,  in  digging 
down  through  a  drift,  we  first  meet  with  wet  snow, 
and  then  ice  of  a  gradually  increasing  solidity  until 
near  the  earth  it  is  quite  solid. 

6  When  the  thaw  first  commenced,  the  water  was 
observed  to  run  down  each  snow-filled  ravine  through 
an  ice  conduit  which  it  had  formed  for  itself  near  the 
surface  of  the  snow.  As  the  thaw  advanced,  the  floor 
of  the  channel  became  naturally  lowered,  leaving  ice 
cliffs  on  either  side ;  but  these  were  only  two  or  three 
feet  in  breadth,  and  the  part  most  distant  from  the 
channel  was  the  least  compact ;  the  rest  of  the  snow 
on  each  side  filling  up  the  ravine  had  been  little 
affected  by  the  water.  How  thick  the  lower  part  of 
the  ice-pipe  was  when  first  formed  is  uncertain,  but 
I  doubt  if  it  extended  down  to  the  ground  below  it. 

'  Our  gateway  through  the  floeberg  barrier  has 
been  enlarged  to  the  widest  dimension  advisable,  and 
several  large  charges  of  powder  are  ready  for  a  final 
discharge  as  soon  as  the  pack  gives  us  an  opportunity 
to  start. 

'  It  is  quite  certain  that  we  can  only  escape  when  a 
strong  south-west  wind  blows  the  ice  away  from  the 
shore.  As  that  will  be  a  foul  wind  for  us  in  Eobeson 
Channel,  the  ship  has  been  made  snug  aloft,  ready  for 
steaming  head  to  wind.  No  sailing  ship  could  ever 
get  to  the  southward  from  this  position. 

'  30th. — To-day  three  young  knots  were  caught  on 
the  border  of  the  lake  near  the  ship.  It  is  very  strange 
that  we  have  .been  unable  to  find  the  nests,  which 
could  not  have  been  very  far  away,  as  the  young  birds 
are  unable  to  fly.  The  old  birds  are  very  wild  :  they 


187C  YOUNG   KNOTS.  81 

collect  in  flocks  from  twelve  to  twenty  in  number. 
The  barometer  is  down  to  29 '4  inches,  with  an  over- 
cast sky  gradually  lowering  and  heavy  cumulus  clouds 
over  Eobeson  Channel,  denoting  a  south-west  wind 
before  long. 

'  There  are  now  only  eighteen  scurvy  patients  left 
under  the  doctor's  care,  and  of  these  six  are  nearly  con- 
valescent. 

'  31s£. — Snow  was  falling  all  last  night  with  calm 
misty  weather.  At  4  A.M.  wind  set  in  suddenly  from 
the  south-west.  Expecting  it  to  continue,  steam  was 
got  up,  arid  after  five  hours  of  hard  work  with  the  ice 
the  ship  was  pushed  through  a  narrow  opening,  and 
was  again  under  steam  after  an  eleven  months'  rest/ 


VOL.    II.  G 


82  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR  SEA.  JULY 


CHAPTEE  III. 

GREENLAND  PARTY  ATTACKED  WITH  SCURVY — DEATHS  OF  TWO  MEN — 
CAPTAIN  STEPHENSON  PROCEEDS  TO  POLARIS  BAY BEAUMONT  RE- 
TURNS TO  DISCOVERY  BAY — ACCOUNT  OF  HIS  PROCEEDINGS. 

ALTHOUGH  the  proceedings  of  the  Greenland  tra- 
vellers were  unknown  to  us  on  board  the  '  Alert '  until 
the  6th  of  August,  by  which  time  we  had  succeeded 
in  advancing  to  within  twenty  miles  of  Discovery 
Harbour,  it  will  be  more  convenient  if  I  relate  them 
previously  to  describing  our  return  voyage  through 
Eobeson  Channel. 

On  the  15th  of  July,  Lieutenant  Fulford,  with  two 
men  and  a  dog-sledge,  arrived  at  Discovery  Bay  from 
Hall's  Eest.  He  informed  Captain  Stephenson  that, 
after  a  most  arduous  journey,  Lieutenant  Beaumont 
had  arrived  at  Polaris  Bay  on  the  1st  with  the  whole 
of  his  crew  attacked  by  scurvy.  Two  deaths  had 
occurred — that  of  James  Hand  on  the  3rd  of  June  and 
of  Charles  Paul  on  the  29th,  both  of  whom,  carried  on 
sledges,  had  lingered  just  long  enough  once  more  to 
sight  their  Arctic  home  before  their  spirits  were  called 
away.  Seven  out  of  the  eleven  men  composing  the 
party  were  still  ailing ;  but  through  the  assiduous 
and  skilful  treatment  of  Dr.  Coppinger,  and  the  in- 
valuable exertions  of  Hans  Hendrich  in  obtaining  fresh 


1876  CONDITION   OF   GREENLAND   PARTY.  83 

seal  meat,  the  sick  men  were  regaining  strength  and 
health  in  a  most  surprising  manner.  Although  still 
weak  and  powerless  there  was  every  reason  to  hope 
that  all  would  be  sufficiently  recovered  to  cross  the 
strait  by  the  beginning  of  August. 

But  for  the  valuable  depot  of  provisions  which  had 
been  established  at  Hall's  Eest  by  the  Polaris  expedition, 
Beaumont  would  have  found  the  greatest  difficulty  in 
obtaining  supplies. 

Captain  Stephenson  immediately  decided  to  start 
with  a  sledge  party  for  Polaris  Bay,  conveying  medical 
comforts,  etc. 

As  the  ice  was  then  breaking  up  in  Hall's  Basin, 
a  small  boat  was  taken ;  but  even  with  its  assistance 
the  crossing  occupied  them  three  days,  Hall's  Eest 
being  reached  on  the  19th. 

After  a  stay  of  ten  days,  during  which  time  the 
invalids  rapidly  improved,  Captain  Stephenson  escorted 
half  the  men  across  the  channel  to  Discovery  Bay, 
leaving  Beaumont  and  Dr.  Coppinger  to  follow  with 
the  remainder  after  another  week's  rest.  So  broken- 
up  was  the  ice  in  Hall's  Basin  that  the  ship  was  not 
reached  until  the  sixth  day,  after  a  very  wet  journey. 

A  severe  gale  detained  Beaumont  at  Polaris  Bay 
until  the  8th  of  August,  when  a  start  was  made  for 
Discovery  Bay.  To  cross  a  broad  channel  at  this 
season  of  the  year  was  a  most  hazardous  enterprise, 
the  floes  being  broken  up  and  drifting  rapidly  to  the 
southward.  On  the  third  journey,  to  save  themselves 
from  being  driven  into  Kennedy  Channel,  a  forced 
inarch  had  to  be  made ;  and  after  thirty-five  hours  of 
incessant  labour  they  succeeded  in  reaching  the  shore 

G  2 


84  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAK   SEA.  APRIL 

of  Daly  Peninsula.  On  the  next  march,  when  crossing 
Lady  Franklin  Sound,  after  working  continuously  for 
twenty-two  hours  they  were  forced  through  exhaustion 
to  encamp  on  the  ice  about  two  miles  from  Bellot 
Island.  Fortunately  it  remained  stationary ;  and  the 
party  reached  Discovery  Bay  on  the  following  day,  the 
15th  of  August,  where  the  '  Alert '  had  arrived  a  few 
days  previously. 

The  following  is  an  account  of  Lieutenant  Beau- 
mont's sledge  journey,  with  extracts  from  his  official 
reports. 

Accompanied  by  Dr.  Coppinger  and  sixteen  men, 
dragging  two  sledges,  he  started  from  the  '  Discovery ' 
on  the  6th  of  April  for  Floeberg  Beach,  intending  to 
make  the  '  Alert '  his  base  for  the  exploration  of  the 
North  Greenland  coast.  Lieutenant  Beaumont  re- 
lates : — 

'  Although  this  journey  does  not  form  part  of  our 
exploring  campaign,  it  requires  some  brief  notice  in 
consequence  of  its  being  our  first  experience  in 
sledging. 

'  The  party  set  out  in  good  health  and  in  excellent 
spirits  ;  but  the  extreme  cold — minus  40°  to  minus  30° 
Fahr. — making  it  difficult  to  sleep  at  night,  together 
with  the  unaccustomed  food  and  hard  work,  soon  told 
upon  some  of  the  less  trained  men,  and  for  the  two 
following  days  our  progress  was  slow,  considering  the 
nature  of  the  roads.  George  Leggatt,  ship's  cook,  was 
the  worst,  and  for  half-a-day  had  to  walk  by  the  side 
of  the  sledge  ;  but  as  there  was  nothing  more  serious 
than  over-exertion  they  soon  began  to  recover  their 
strength.  Leggatt's  indisposition  was  chiefly  due  to 


187G  GREENLAND   SLEDGE   JOURNEY.  85 

his  dislike  of  pemmican,  and  lie,  like  many  others, 
would  not  eat  it  until  hunger  compelled  him  to  do  so. 

'  The  road,  with  a  few  exceptions,  was  a  very 
rough  one,  as  there  seemed  to  be  no  choice  but  to 
follow  the  line  of  the  high  and  very  steep  cliffs  along 
the  ice.  Once  we  tried  the  land-foot,  but  after  passing 
some  inclines  so  steep  that  we  had  to  cut  a  groove  for 
the  hill-side  runner,  we  were  forced  to  lower  both 
sledges  and  crews  down  an  ice-wall  twenty-five  feet 
high,  which  caused  such  a  delay  that  for  the  future  we 
preferred  working  through  the  hummocks.  Floes  were 
rare,  and  of  no  great  size,  consequently  our  progress 
was  only  moderate.  We  passed  Lincoln  Bay  on  the 
llth,  and  arrived  at  Black  Cape  on  the  14th,  where 
we  were  detained  one  day  by  a  gale  of  wind,  reaching 
H.M.S.  "Alert"  on  Sunday,  the  16th  of  April. 

'  This  trial  trip  was  of  great  use  to  us,  for  the 
sledges  not  being  heavy  enabled  the  men  to  get  into 
the  work  without  undue  effort,  and  gave  them  time  to 
get  accustomed  to  the  food  and  novelty  of  the  life,  so 
that  we  reached  the  "  Alert "  in  excellent  condition, 
and  ready  to  begin  work  in  earnest.' 

On  the  20th  of  April,  Lieutenant  Beaumont,  ac- 
companied by  Lieutenant  Eawson,  Dr.  Coppinger,  and 
twenty-one  men,  dragging  four  sledges  weighted  to 
218  Ibs.  per  man,  started  for  Greenland,  the  officers 
themselves,  as  usual,  always  dragging  whenever  not 
employed  in  selecting  a  road  through  the  rough  ice. 

With  the  exception  of  Eawson  and  two  of  the 
men,  who  had  only  rested  for  two  days,  the  whole  of  the 
Greenland  party  under  Beaumont  enjoyed  the  great 
advantage  of  a  thorough  rest  of  four  days,  after  a 


86  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  AI>RIL 

preliminary  ten  days' journey,  and  started  in  apparently 
most  excellent  health. 

Had  the  Committee  appointed  to  enquire  into  the 
outbreak  of  scurvy  considered  this  fact,  they  would 
doubtless  not  have  introduced  the  following  paragraph 
in  their  report. 

'  How  far,  with  due  regard  to  the  length  of  the 
travelling  season,  these  evils  could  have  been  mitigated 
by  a  recourse  to  short  journeys,  utilized  for  laying  out 
depots  of  provisions,  and  other  preparatory  purposes, 
prior  to  those  of  a  more  extended  character  undertaken 
to  effect  the  main  objects  of  the  Expedition,  we  are 
not  prepared  to  say,  but  it  is  obvious  that  the  adoption 
of  such  a  system  would  have  afforded  an  amount  and 
description  of  that  previous  training  so  essential  to  the 
success  of  sledging,  far  more  efficacious  than  the  exercise 
obtained  during  the  winter,  but  limited  by  its  severity.' 

The  following  are  extracts  from  my  orders  to 
Lieutenant  Beaumont : — 

'  Equipped  and  provisioned  for  an  absence  of  fifty- 
six  days,  you  will  cross  Eobeson  Channel  and  explore 
tlie  coast  of  Greenland  towards  the  north  and  eastward. 

*  Your  party,  although  not  as  strong  (numerous)  as  I 
would  wish,  admits  of  two  sledges  being  advanced  for 
the  time  mentioned,  under  the  command  of  yourself  and 
Lieutenant  Wyatt  Eawson,  an  officer  in  whom  I  have 
the  fullest  trust,  and  of  the  two  others  placing  a  depot 
of  provisions  for  your  use  when  returning. 

c  Dr.  Coppinger,  in  addition  to  his  medical  duties, 
will  take  executive  command  of  the  two  sledges  thus  em- 
ployed ;  George  W.  Emmerson,  chief  boatswain's  mate, 
taking  charge  of  the  sledge  "Alert"  under  his  orders. 


1870       GREENLAND  SLEDGE  JOURNEY.         87 

'  During  your  advance  you  are  to  endeavour  to  keep 
one  of  your  sledges  on  the  northern  shores.  Your 
best  guide  for  doing  so  will  be  to  follow  the  line  of 
heavy  stranded  floebergs  which  border  the  coast,  in 
whatever  direction  they  may  lead  you. 

'  Should  you  experience  smoother  or  lighter  ice  than 
that  in  our  neighbourhood,  you  may  reasonably  con- 
clude that  some  protecting  land  exists  to  the  north- 
ward. In  such  a  case  you  should  divide  your  party — 
one  sledge  endeavouring  to  reach  the  northern  land, 
and  the  other  continuing  the  exploration  of  the  Green- 
land coast.  But  as  you  are  not  provided  with  a  boat, 
anyone  detached  should  return  to  the  mainland  before 
the  1st  of  June. 

'  Should  you  discover  any  deep  inlet,  which  in  your 
opinion  might  prove  to  be  a  channel  affording  an 
easier  journey  to  the  eastward  than  the  coast-line  of 
the  Polar  Sea,  it  is  desirable  that  it  should  be  explored 
this  year. 

'  Your  party  on  returning  to  the  "  Discovery  "  must 
necessarily  cross  Eobeson  Channel  after  the  ice  has 
broken  up.  This  part  of  the  work  before  you  will 
require  more  than  usual  skill  and  judgment ;  but  I 
know  of  no  officer  in  whose  hands  I  would  more 
wiUingly  leave  its  accomplishment,  having  the  utmost 
confidence  that,  with  your  great  ability  and  forethought, 
your  interesting  journey  will  be  successfully  accom- 
plished.' 

Lieutenant  Beaumont's  report  continues  as  follows : 

'  Having  completed  the  two  advance  sledges  "  Sir 
Edward  Parry"  and  "Discovery"  to  fifty-six  days' 
provisions,  and  the  two  supporting  sledges  "  Stephen- 


88  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR  SEA.  APRIL 

son "  and  "  Alert "  in  proportion,  from  the  Cape 
Eawson  Depot,  we  started  early  on  the  morning  of  the 
22nd  of  April  for  Eepulse  Harbour,  on  the  Greenland 
coast. 

4  Thanks  to  the  road  made  by  Captain  Nares' 
direction,  the  passage  of  the  fringe  of  shore  hummocks 
at  Black  Cape  was  made  in  safety  by  the  heavy  sledges  ; 
one  five-man  sledge,  however,  broke  down,  and  had  to 
be  sent  back  to  the  "Alert  "  and  exchanged. 

'  The  line  between  Black  Cape  and  Eepulse  Harbour 
led  us  in  a  south-easterly  direction,  and  was  crossed 
by  many  bands  of  heavy  hummocks,  necessitating  a 
good  deal  of  road-making  for  the  heavy  sledges,  and 
great  care  in  the  management  of  the  five-man  sledges, 
which  are  hardly  calculated  to  stand  such  rough  work. 

'  As  we  approached  the  Greenland  coast  we  passed 
several  floes  of  last  year's  ice  ;  they  were  not  large, 
but  were  remarkable  because  they  showed  no  sign  of 
pressure  round  the  edges ;  it  seemed  to  indicate  that 
from  the  commencement  of  their  formation,  the  large 
and  heavy  old  floes  which  surrounded  them  had  been 
motionless.  The  old  floes  were  high,  and  covered 
with  deep  soft  snow,  while  the  young  floes  lay  low, 
and  had  much  less  snow  on  them ;  in  fact,  not  only 
from  my  observations  on  that  occasion,  but  later  on 
when  returning,  I  remarked  large  extents  of  level  and 
unbroken  ice,  from  which  I  infer  that  there  is  less 
current  or  tide-action  on  this  coast  than  on  the  other. 
The  entrance  to  Eepulse  Harbour  is,  however,  very 
different,  being  a  mass  of  hummock  ridges  with  small 
floes  between  them,  to  within  200  yards  of  the  shore, 
when  you  come  to  a  solid  barrier  of  immense  floebergs 


1870  GREENLAND   SLEDGE   JOURNEY.  89 

over  which  we  had  to  find  a  way.  This  took  half  a 
day  of  road-cutting  and  bridge-making,  for  such  large 
masses  have  wide  gaps  between  them ;  our  only  con- 
solation for  the  delay  was  the  thought  that  it  would  be 
a  lasting  work,  and  might  prove  useful  to  others.  The 
men  by  this  time  were  becoming  skilful  road-makers, 
and  the  officers  practised  engineers. 

c  The  tents  being  pitched,  the  provisions  were  re- 
distributed amongst  the  three  remaining  sledges,  a 
cairn  built,  and  a  site  selected  for  the  depot  to  be  left 
for  our  return  journey.  Having  written  a  letter  to 
Captain  Nares  of  our  proceedings  up  to  that  date,  I 
despatched  George  W.  Emmerson  on  his  way  back  to 
the  "  Alert." 

'  On  the  27th  April  we  started  northward,  having 
secured  in  the  depot  a  few  things  of  which  we  were 
not  in  want,  to  lighten  as  much  as  possible  the  now 
very  heavy  sledges. 

'  Our  way  led  us  round  the  harbour,  which  is  about 
two  and-a-half  miles  broad,  and  at  present  only  half 
a  mile  deep ;  but  if  this  is  the  Eepulse  Harbour  of  the 
Americans,  it  is  no  wonder  that  from  a  distance  it 
appeared  to  them  a  desirable  place  of  refuge  ;  the 
background  of  hills  gives  it  the  appearance  of  a  large 
bay,  nearly  three  miles  deep,  with  two  islands  in  it, 
the  remainder  of  the  land  between  the  hills  and  the  sea 
being  so  flat  and  low  as  scarcely  to  be  distinguished 
from  the  floe.  No  doubt  it  is  an  old  harbour,  and 
even  now,  for  some  considerable  distance  in,  the  land 
is  covered  with  ice.  A  wide  and  deep  valley  on  the  same 
level  runs  from  the  north-east  corner  of  this  dry  bay. 

'  On  the  28th  we  passed  the  farthest  point  reached 


90  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  APKIL 

by  Lieutenant  Rawson  in  his  flying  visit  a  few  days 
before.  He  certainly  was  justified,  so  far  as  lie  saw, 
in  making  a  favourable  report  of  the  travelling,  but 
another  six  miles  would  have  told  a  different  tale,  for 
it  was  not  until  the  second  day  that  our  difficulties 
commenced.  Early  in  the  journey  we  came  to  a  point 
covered  so  deeply  with  drift  snow  that  it  almost  rose 
to  the  level  of  the  huge  hummock  mass  forced  on  the 
end  of  the  point.  This  drift,  like  all  accumulations 
of  snow  which  the  wind  makes  on  meeting  with  an 
obstacle,  left  a  deep  and  precipitous  gap  between  it 
and  the  hummock,  and  our  only  way  past  was  to  climb 
the  snow-hill.  It  was  so  steep  and  slippery  that  the 
eight-man  sledge  had  to  be  partly  unloaded,  and  then 
each  sledge  hauled  over  separately  by  all  hands.  This 
point  we  named  Drift  Point. 

'  The  coast  beyond  this  trended  to  the  north-east- 
ward, and  was  one  continuous,  steep,  slippery,  snow- 
slope.  Sometimes,  where  the  shore  hummocks  were 
high,  there  was  a  ledge  at  the  bottom  covered  with 
deep  soft  snow,  but  more  generally  the  slope  ended  in 
a  straight  drop  of  from  five  to  fifteen  feet  on  to  the  ice. 

'  The  next  point  was  very  much  the  same  as  Drift 
Point,  and  the  slopes  continued  for  some  distance 
beyond.  We  had  to  double-man  the  sledges  to  get  on 
at  all,  and  even  then  our  progress  was  very  slow.  To 
prevent  losing  ground,  and  to  clear  what  we  took  to 
calling  the  "  drift-pits,"  which  existed  in  a  greater  or 
less  degree  round  every  hummock,  we  had  to  keep 
dragging  up-hill  as  well  as  forward,  and  thus,  making 
a  great  deal  of  lee-way,  the  sledges  were  hauled  along 
by  degrees. 


1876       GREENLAND  SLEDGE  JOURNEY.        91 

c  Next  journey  we  started  on  a  more  level  road, 
timl  hoped  to  make  a  better  march,  but  we  soon  came  to 
another  point  worse  than  either  of  the  other  two.  The 
slope,  which  continued  for*  over  two  miles,  was  so 
steep  that  it  was  impossible  to  stand  on  it,  while  towards 
the  end  it  became  almost  perpendicular.  At  the  foot 
of  this  slope  was  a  tortuous  and  intricate  passage  along 
and  inside  the  hummocks,  full  of  deep  holes  and 
covered  with  thick  soft  snow.  The  work  of  getting 
through  this  promised  to  be  endless,  and  it  was  im- 
possible to  say  what  was  beyond,  so  I  sent  Lieutenant 
Eawson,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Coppinger,  to  report  on 
the  road ;  in  the  meantime  we  commenced  to  cut 
through  all  obstacles.  They  returned  in  about  two 
hours  to  say  that,  after  two  miles  of  a  road  that  got 
worse  and  worse,  they  came  to  a  cliff  that  went  sheer 
down  into  the  tidal-crack  and  which  it  would  be 
impossible  to  pass  without  going  out  on  to  the  ice. 

'  I  have  gone  into  these  particulars  to  show  how 
important  I  considered  it  to  keep  to  the  land  on  the 
outward  journey,  though  at  the  same  time  I  felt  it  was 
greatly  retarding  our  advance.  It  had  been  impressed 
upon  me  that  the  object  of  keeping  to  the  land  on  the 
outward  journey  was  to  prevent  leaving  an  impassable 
barrier  in  the  rear,  which,  supposing  the  ice  to  break 
up  before  our  return,  would  effectually  cut  off  the 
retreat  of  the  party.  But  here  was  a  case  in  which  it 
was  necessary  to  depart  from  the  rule.  The  cliffs 
extended,  as  far  as  could  be  judged,  for  about  four 
miles,  and  must  be  passed  by  the  ice  or  not  at  all.  It 
was  too  late  to  depend  on  boats  being  sent  to  meet  us, 
so  we  trusted  that  the  ice  would  remain  and  befriend  us. 


92  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  MAY 

4  As  we  had  to  take  to  the  ice  we  took  advantage 
of  the  good  floes  that  lay  in  our  direction,  and  struck 
the  land  again  some  distance  beyond  the  cliffs,  which 
in  consequence  of  a  remarkable  black  rock  like  a  horn 
projecting  from  one  part,  we  called  the  Black  Horn 
Cliffs. 

'  The  next  three  journeys  were  spent  in  crawling 
along  the  sides  of  the  never-ending  snow-slopes,  some- 
times halting  for  hours,  while  as  many  as  could  be 
employed  were  cutting  a  road  in  the  hard,  slippery 
snow,  wide  enough  for  the  whole  breadth  of  the  sledge. 
The  angle  of  these  slopes — carefully  taken  with  a 
clinometer  by  Dr.  Coppinger — showed  that  they  varied 
from  20°  to  24°.  If  the  snow  was  hard  it  was  im- 
possible to  stand  on  this  latter  incline,  and  here  broad 
roads  had  to  be  cut.  So  direct  and  heavy  was  the 
pressure  from  outside  on  some  parts  of  these  slopes, 
that  the  floebergs  were  forced  right  up  on  to  them, 
and  left  us  nothing  but  the  steep  talus  of  the  cliff  by 
which  to  pass. 

'  On  the  4th  of  May  we  arrived  at  a  place  which 
seemed  so  suitable  for  a  depot  that  we  determined  on 
leaving  our  three  water-tight  metal  cases  there,  con- 
taining 120  rations,  or  ten  days  for  twelve  men,  instead 
of  the  regular  depot  farther  on,  thus  reserving  four 
days  for  possible  delays  in  repassing  the  Black  Horn 
Cliffs.  Dr.  Coppinger,  who  was  to  leave  us  on  the 
5th,  could  gain  nothing  by  waiting  until  that  time,  as 
we  were  then  halted  in  order  to  cut  a  long  extent  of 
road  ;  so,  giving  us  such  provisions  as  he  could  spare, 
he  set  out  on  his  return,  having  himself  the  day  before 
walked  on  to  Cape  Stan  ton. 


1876          APPEARANCE  OF  SCURVY.  93 

'Not  only  was  the  slope  travelling  very  slow,  but 
both  men  and  sledges  suffered  from  it.  The  work  was 
unusually  hard,  and  the  strain  on  the  ankles  caused 
them  to  swell  and  become  stiff;  the  heavily-loaded 
sledges,  from  continually  resting  on  one  runner,  bent 
it  inwards,  and  in  the  case  of  the  five-man  sledge,  not 
only  exhausted  the  supply  of  spare  uprights,  but 
eventually  proved  the  ruin  of  the  entire  runner.  How- 
ever, the  end  was  near  at  hand,  and  on  the  morning 
of  the  5th  we  encamped  at  Cape  Stanton,  which  would 
have  been  in  sight  the  whole  time  had  not  the  weather 
been  densely  thick. 

'  Our  next  start  was  made  in  high  spirits,  the 
slopes  were  passed,  the  sun  shone  once  more,  and  a 
wide  bay  lay  before  us,  but  though  it  was  infinitely 
better  than  what  we  had  had,  still  deep  soft  snow 
made  our  distances  travelled  very  short.  It  was  at  the 
end  of  this  journey,  May  6th,  that  J.  J.  Hand,  one  of 
my  sledge  crew,  told  me  in  answer  to  my  inquiry  as 
to  why  he  was  walking  lame,  that  his  legs  were 
becoming  very  stiff;  he  had  spoken  to  Dr.  Coppinger 
about  them,  but  attributing  the  stiffness  and  soreness 
then  to  several  falls  that  he  had  had,  he  did  not  think 
much  of  it,  before  that  officer's  departure  ;  now,  how- 
ever, there  was  pain  as  well  as  stiffness,  and  both  were 
increasing. 

'  In  our  next  journey  we  passed  another  fine  bay, 
whose  level  and  unbroken  surface  appeared  not  to  have 
been  disturbed  for  many  years.  During  lunch-time  we 
dug  through  two  and-a-half  feet  of  snow,  and  came 
to  ice  which  was  perfectly  fresh  for  three  inches 
down ;  this  was  almost  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay.  I 


94         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        MAY 

observed  here  also  that  from  Cape  Stanton  the  shore 
had  been  lined  with  floebergs  of  great  size,  particularly 
at  this  bay,  which  I  called  Frankfield  Bay,  while  from 
Drift  Point  to  Cape  Stanton  the  floebergs  were  much 
broken  up,  the  shore  hummocks  consisting  of  accumu- 
lated blocks,  sometimes  attaining  a  great  height. 

6  To  seaward  there  appeared  to  be  large  tracts  of 
good  travelling  ice,  though  the  hummock  ridges  were 
undoubtedly  heavy.  Up  to  Cape  Stanton  high  land 
and  rocky  cliffs,  reaching  to  the  very  sea,  was  the 
character  of  the  country,  but  that  seemed  to  end  with 
that  enormous  mass  which  I  named  Bockhill.  Beyond 
was  a  low  foreshore,  with  point  after  point  projecting 
out,  the  land  gradually  rising  into  low  rounded  hills, 
with  only  a  distant  background  of  mountains.  This 
aspect  of  the  country  promised  better  travelling,  and  I 
was  anxious  to  push  on ;  but  as  usual,  "  more  hurry, 
less  speed,"  for  after  crossing  Frankfield  Bay,  and 
dragging  the  sledges  over  a  hill  150  feet  high — the 
only  practicable  route — both  Lieutenant  Eawson  and 
myself  came  reluctantly  to  the  conclusion  that  the  men 
were  very  much  done,  and  required  a  day's  rest ;  as 
we  had  been  dragging  ourselves  all  the  time  we  were 
better  able  to  judge  of  their  feelings.  Hand,  who  had 
thought  himself  better  at  starting,  was  now  quite  lame  ; 
so  we  camped,  determined  to  wait  for  a  day,  in  the 
hope  that  rest  would  restore  both  the  lame  and  tired. 

'  I  will  now  explain  how  it  was  that  I  had  to  send 
Lieutenant  Eawson  back.  On  coming  into  camp  I 
examined  Hand's  legs,  and  from  his  description  of  the 
stiffness  and  pain  I  suspected  scurvy.  I  had  no  reason 
to  expect  it,  indeed  I  had  never  thought  of  it,  but  the 


1876  RAWSON   ORDERED  TO  RETURN.  95 

striking  resemblance  of  the  symptoms  to  the  ones 
described  in  the  voyage  of  the  "  Fox,"  as  being  those 
of  Lieutenant  Hobson,  who  suffered  severely  from 
scurvy,  suggested  it  to  my  mind,  and  my  suspicions 
were  confirmed  by  Gray,  the  captain  of  my  sledge,  an 
ice  quartermaster,  who,  in  his  whaling  experience,  has 
seen  much  of  it.  He,  however,  led  me  to  believe,  at 
the  same  time,  that  it  would  probably  wear  off.  Thus, 
from  the  7th  until  the  10th  I  waited,  hoping  that  his 
words  might  prove  true. 

'  I  was  very  reluctant  to  order  Lieutenant  Eawson 
to  return  ;  it  was  like  sending  back  hah0  the  party  ;  it 
would  be,  I  felt,  a  great  disappointment  to  him  to  turn 
back  then,  and  the  loss  of  his  advice  and  assistance  would 
be  considerable ;  but  the  indications  of  the  disease 
and  their  aggravated  nature  became  too  plain  to  be 
misunderstood — sore  and  inflamed  gums,  loss  of 
appetite,  etc.,  all  pointed  too  clearly  to  scurvy ;  so  on 
the  10th  of  May  it  was  arranged  that  Lieutenant 
Eawson,  with  his  party,  should  take  Hand  back, 
deciding,  on  his  arrival  at  Eepulse  Harbour,  whether 
to  cross  over  to  the  "  Alert  "  or  go  on  to  Polaris  Bay. 
I  at  the  same  time  called  upon  the  remainder  of  my 
men  to  say  honestly  if  they  suspected  themselves  to  be 
suffering  from  the  same  disease,  or  could  detect  any  of 
its  symptoms,  as  in  that  case  it  would  be  better  for  the 
party  to  advance  reduced  in  numbers  than  to  be 
charged  with  the  care  of  sick  men.  I  did  this  because 
two  of  them  had  complained  of  stiff  legs  after  the  hard 
work  on  the  snow-slopes ;  but  they  all  declared  them- 
selves to  be  now  perfectly  well,  and  most  anxious  to  go 
on. 


96  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  MAY 

'  I  did  not  take  one  of  Lieutenant  Eawson's  men  to 
fill  up  my  crew,  for  I  feared  that  the  time  might  come 
when  he  would  have  to  carry  Hand,  and  I  suspected  that 
George  Bryant,  the  captain  of  the  sledge,  was  already 
affected  with  the  same  disease.  Thus  it  was  that  early 
on  the  morning  of  the  llth  of  May  Lieutenant  Eawson 
left  me,  much  to  my  regret,  he  making  the  best  of  his 
way  back,  whilst  I  continued  to  advance  with  six  men.' 

It  will  be  most  convenient  here  to  follow  Lieu- 
tenant Eawson  in  his  journey  to  Polaris  Bay. 

Owing  to  two  more  of  his  crew  breaking  down, 
leaving  only  himself  and  one  man,  E.  Eayner,  strong 
enough  to  drag  the  sledge,  they  only  succeeded  in 
reaching  Polaris  Bay  on  the  3rd  of  June,  after  a  most 
arduous  journey  on  reduced  rations,  and  during  several 
days  of  which  Eawson  was  himself  so  badly  affected 
with  snow-blindness  that  he  had  to  pull  the  sledge 
while  blindfold. 

James  Hand  expired  a  few  hours  after  their 
arrival  at  Polaris  Bay.  George  Bryant  and  Michael 
Eegan  were  both  attacked — the  former  very  severely— 
but  knowing  that  his  extra  weight  on  the  sledge  would 
endanger  the  lives  of  all,  he  manfully  refused  to  the 
last  to  be  carried.  It  was  entirely  due  to  Lieutenant 
Eawson's  genial  and  inspiriting  conduct  and  to  his  firm 
command,  that  the  crippled  band  succeeded  in  reaching 
the  depot. 

Four  days  subsequent  to  their  arrival,  Lieutenant 
Fulford  and  Dr.  Coppinger,  with  Hans  and  the  dog- 
sledge,  arrived  opportunely  from  examining  Petermann 
Fiord,  and  the  invalids  obtained  the  benefit  of  pro- 
fessional advice. 


1876  PROCEEDINGS    AT   POLARIS   BAY.  97 

Although  Rawson's  early  return  had  left  Beau- 
mont sufficient  provisions  to  last  until  the  28th,  the 
little  party  at  Polaris  Bay  were  naturally  anxious  con- 
cerning the  health  of  his  men.  Accordingly  Rawson 
with  Hans  and  eight  dogs,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Cop- 
pinger — whose  patients  had  recovered  sufficiently  for 
them  to  be  left  to  the  care  of  Lieutenant  Fulford — 
started  on  the  22nd  of  June,  and  most  providentially 
met  Beaumont  in  Newman  Bay  on  the  25th,  on  the 
very  last  march  the  party  could  possibly  have  per- 
formed without  help. 

Beaumont,  with  Alexander  Gray,  captain  of  the 
sledge,  and  Frank  Jones,  were  dragging  forward  their 
four  helpless  comrades,  lashed  on  top  of  the  sledge  and 
made  as  comfortable  as  the  circumstances  permitted, 
two  at  a  time,  thankful  if  they  advanced  only  half  a 
mile  a-day. 

I  will  now  continue  the  relation  of  Lieutenant 
Beaumont's  journey. 

On  the  10th  of  May  he  ascended  Mount  Wyatt, 
2,050  feet,  called  so  after  Lieutenant  Wyatt  Rawson. 

4 1  had  noticed  that  morning  as  we  came  along  the 
coast  that  all  our  big  floebergs  had  disappeared,  and 
now  I  saw  the  reason  why — for  starting  from  the  shore 
close  under  our  position,  and  stretching  away  for  ten 
or  twelve  miles  in  the  direction  of  Mount  Hooker,  was 
a  distinct  line  of  demarcation  :  it  then  turned  to  the 
northward,  and  ran  straight  for  the  west  end  of  the 
distant  land.  All  to  the  eastward  of  this  boundary  was 
smooth  and  level,  while  to  the  westward  lay  the  Polar 
pack,  with  its  floes  and  chains  of  hummocks. 

4  On  the  llth  we  arrived  at  the  end  of  the  un- 

VOL.    II.  H 


98         VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.        MAY 

broken-  coast-line  along  which  we  had  hitherto  travelled 
in  a  north-easterly  direction,  and,  as  the  general  direc- 
tion of  the  land  beyond  was  more  easterly,  this  must 
have  been  our  highest  northern  point  reached.  Un- 
fortunately, though  we  twice  halted  here,  each  time  it 
snowed  heavily,  and  I  was  unable  to  get  a  meridian 
altitude.  With  a  crew  reduced  to  six  and  a  proba- 
bility of  my  not  being  able  to  drag,  which  I  had  done 
hitherto,  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  to  do  good 
work  in  the  wide  field  of  operations  opening  before  us 
we  must  lighten  the  sledge  at  all  cost ;  so  here,  at  this 
point,  which  I  called  Cape  Bryant,  we  left  a  depot,  and 
thus  lightened  started  for  Cape  Fulford,  which  is  the 
north  extremity  of  the  line  of  cliffs  on  the  west  side  of 
St.  George's  Fiord. 

'  In  obedience  to  my  orders  it  was  necessary  that  I 
should  examine  what  appeared  to  be  a  deep  inlet ;  but 
now  that  I  was  alone  I  felt  that  the  utmost  that  I 
could  hope  to  do,  and  which  seemed  to  me  would  be 
of  the  most  service,  was  to  follow  and  ascertain  the 
direction  of  the  mainland  as  far  as  I  could,  at  the 
same  time  taking  every  opportunity  of  ascending  high 
mountains  to  obtain  the  fullest  information  relative  to 
the  off-lying  islands,  if  such  existed.  Thus  it  was  that, 
after  looking  into  St.  George's  Fiord,  I  pushed  on 
towards  Dragon  Point.  The  road  across  the  mouth 
of  the  Fiord,  which  was  exposed  to  the  north  wind, 
was  very  good  (the  only  good  bit  we  ever  had),  being 
hard  and  nearly  level,  and  we  did  the  nine  miles  with 
ease  and  comparative  pleasure. 

'  Arrived  at  Dragon  Point,  we  opened  out  another 
wide  reach  of  bays  and  fiords,  and  while  debating  in 


1876       GREENLAND  SLEDGE  JOURNEY.         99 

my  own  mind  which  to  follow  I  felt  how  powerless  I 
was,  single-handed,  to  follow  out  such  numerous  and 
extensive  lines  of  exploration.  I  was  most  anxious  to 
reach  Mount  Hooker,  as  I  considered  that  from  its 
summit  I  should  not  only  see  the  islands  to  the  north, 
but  get  the  best  idea  of  the  trend  of  the  mainland  ;  at 
the  same  time  I  felt  I  could  not  leave  these  wide  and 
deep  fiords  behind  me,  any  one  of  which  might  be  a 
through  passage ;  so,  holding  to  my  original  plan,  we 
started  for  Cape  Cleveland. 

4  On  our  way  we  passed  some  most  remarkable  ice- 
hills,  which  from  a  distance  we  had  taken  for  islands. 
Some  stood  singly,  huge  masses  of  solid  blue  ice  rising 
gently,  with  rounded  outlines,  from  thirty  to  forty  feet 
above  the  floe ;  others,  grouped  together,  looked  like  a 
mountainous  country  in  miniature,  and  formed  far  too 
formidable  a  barrier  for  us  to  overcome. 

'  Up  to  the  16th  of  May  the  travelling  since 
leaving  Cape  Fulford  had  been  pretty  good  and  the 
progress  fair,  but  that  same  evening  when  we  started 
again  it  was  through  soft  snow  about  eighteen  inches 
deep  ;  this  was  very  disappointing,  for  the  floe  looked 
most  promising  ;  in  fact,  the  whole  of  this  vast  tract  as 
far  as  we  could  see,  from  Mount  May  to  Cape  Buttress, 
was  one  level  plain,  over  which  we  expected  to  travel 
easily  and  rapidly.  We  pushed  on,  hoping  for  better 
things,  and  at  camping  time  had  reached,  not  the 
island  we  had  started  for — that  we  had  missed  in  a  dense 
fog — but  another  smaller  one,  about  one  and-a-half 
miles  west  of  it.  The  travelling  had  become  worse  and 
worse,  the  snow  varied  from  two  and-a-half  to  four  and- 
a-half  feet  in  thickness,  and  was  no  longer  crisp  and 

H  2 


100  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  MAY 

dry,  but  of  the  consistency  of  moist  sugar ;  walking 
was  most  exhausting,  one  literally  had  to  climb  out  of 
the  holes  made  by  each  foot  in  succession,  the  hard 
crust  on  the  top,  which  would  only  just  not  bear  you, 
as  well  as  the  depth  of  the  snow  preventing  you  from 
pushing  forward  through  it,  each  leg  sank  to  about 
three  inches  above  the  knee,  and  the  effort  of  lifting 
them  so  high  to  extricate  them  from  their  tight-fitting 
holes,  soon  began  to  tell  upon  the  men.  William 
Jenkins,  Peter  Craig,  and  Charles  Paul  complained  of 
stiffness  in  the  hamstrings,  and  all  of  us  were  very  tired. 
The  morning  was  most  beautiful,  but  the  island  close 
to  us  was  inaccessible  on  account  of  a  reef,  which 
caused  the  tides  to  break  up  the  ice  at  its  margin,  and 
to  maintain  a  barrier  of  water  round  it.  I  could  find 
no  way  past  this,  and  to  have  gone  round  to  the  other 
side,  or  to  the  other  island,  would  have  been  four  hours' 
hard  work  through  that  snow,  so  I  gave  it  up. 

'  Our  next  march  was  made  under  a  hot  sun, 
through  snow  never  less  than  three  feet  thick;  we 
were  parched  with  thirst,  and  obliged  to  halt  every 
fifty  yards  to  recover  breath. 

'  The  shore  for  which  we  were  making  did  not 
seem  more  than  two  miles  off,  so  I  went  ahead  to  see 
if  the  travelling  was  better  under  the  cliffs.  I  got 
about  a  mile  and-a-half  ahead  of  the  sledge  in  three 
hours,  and  then  gave  it  up.  I  was  nearly  done  ;  so  I 
hailed  them  to  go  to  lunch,  but  would  rather  have 
missed  three  meals  than  gone  back  all  that  distance,  so 
I  had  a  good  rest  and  made  a  sketch  instead ;  and 
then  seeing  that  the  sledge  would  never  reach  me  that 
day  I  started  back  for  them,  walking  in  my  tracks. 


1876       GREENLAND  SLEDGE  JOURNEY.        101 

In  the  meantime  the  men  had  been  struggling  on  as 
best  they  could,  sometimes  dragging  the  sledge  on 
their  hands  and  knees  to  relieve  their  aching  legs,  or 
hauling  her  ahead  with  a  long  rope  and  standing  pulls. 
When  we  encamped  we  had  hardly  done  two  miles, 
and  Jones  was  added  to  the  list  of  stiff-legged  ones. 

4  The  next  march,  May  19th,  they  could  hardly  bend 
their  legs.  We  tried  every  kind  of  expedient.  We 
made  a  road  for  the  men  to  walk  in,  and  tracked  the 
sledge.  Then  we  tried  a  broader  one  for  both  sledge 
and  men,  but  all  to  no  purpose  ;  and  at  last  went  back 
to  the  usual  way,  and  tugged  and  gasped  on,  resting 
at  every  ten  or  twelve  yards.  In  my  journal  I  find 
this  entry  for  the  day :  "  Nobody  will  ever  believe 
what  hard  work  this  becomes  on  the  fourth  day ;  but 
this  may  give  them  some  idea  of  it.  When  halted  for 
lunch,  two  of  the  men  crawled  for  200  yards  on  their 
hands  and  knees,  rather  than  walk  unnecessarily 
through  this  awful  snow  ;  but  although  tired,  stiff,  and 
sore,  there  is  not  a  word  of  complaint ;  they  are 
cheerful,  hopeful,  and  determined.  Since  twelve 
o'clock  it  has  been  my  birthday ;  but  I  can  safely  say 
I  never  spent  one  so  before,  and  I  don't  want  to  be 
wished  any  happy  returns  of  it."  That  march  we  did 
not  make  much  over  a  mile.  Everyone  was  very 
tired  with  the  unusual  exertions  of  the  last  few  days, 
and  the  work  was  pain  and  grief  to  those  with  stiff  legs. 
Matters  did  not  look  promising  at  all.  I  had  started 
across  the  channel  first  to  see  down  past  Cape  But- 
tress, and  after  reaching  Reef  Island  the  northern  shore 
looked  so  near  that  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  we 
had  better  push  on,  reach  the  land,  and  coast  along  to 


102  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  MA? 

Mount  Hooker.  So  we  went  on  for  two  days,  until 
going  back  seemed  as  hard  work  as  going  on.  Our 
provisions  would  compel  us  to  start  homeward  on  the 
23rd.  We  could  not  do  two  miles  a-day,  and  the 
men  were  falling  sick.  I  did  not  encourage  inspection 
of  legs,  and  tried  to  make  them  think  as  little  of  the 
stiffness  as  possible,  for  I  knew  the  unpleasant  truth 
would  soon  enough  be  forced  upon  us. 

6  We  started  again  on  the  evening  of  the  1 9th,  and 
worked  away  as  before  ;  but  our  progress  was  ridicu- 
lously small,  and  something  had  to  be  done  :  so  leaving 
the  sledge  we  started  in  two  ranks,  four  a-breast,  to 
make  a  road  to  the  shore,  for  the  actual  dragging  was 
nothing  compared  to  the  exertion  of  making  the  road. 
The  shore  still  looked  about  one  mile  off:  it  had 
looked  the  same  for  two  days  past,  and,  to  our  astonish- 
ment and  dismay,  we  walked  for  five  hours  without 
reaching  it.  It  was  evidently  impossible,  on  a  floe  so 
level  that  there  was  nothing  in  sight  the  size  of  a 
brick,  to  estimate  the  distance  of  the  high  and  pre- 
cipitous cliffs  in  front  of  us.  I  altered  my  plans  and 
sent  them  back  to  lunch  and  rest,  while  Gray  and  I 
went  on.  It  took  us  two  hours  more  to  reach  the 
cliffs,  and  when  we  did,  it  was  to  find  the  same  deep 
snow  reach  their  very  foot ;  for  a  hundred  yards  from 
the  shore  the  ice  was  seamed  with  wide  cracks  covered 
by  snow,  into  which  the  sledge  itself  might  have  dis- 
appeared. These  had  water  in  them,  the  surface  of 
which  was  quite  fresh,  probably  due  to  the  glacier 
which  we  knew  to  be  close  by,  though  now  everything 
was  hidden  by  a  thick  fog. 

'  I  now  saw  to  my  great  disappointment  that  we 


1876  BEAUMONT'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  103 

could  not  reach  Mount  Hooker,  and  I  came  to  tl^e 
conclusion  it  would  be  useless  to  advance  any  farther 
with  the  sledge,  as  turn  which  way  we  would,  there 
was  the  same  smooth,  treacherous  expanse  of  snow, 
and  only  two  days'  provisions,  which  would  not  have 
enabled  us  to  reach  any  part  of  the  shore  ;  so  I  went 
back  to  the  tent  after  nine  and-a-half  hours'  hard 
march,  and  found  two  men,  J.  Craig  and  Wm.  Jenkins, 
unmistakably  scurvy-stricken. 

'I  therefore  decided  to  wait  where  we  wTere,  if 
necessary,  for  two  days,  in  hopes  of  being  able  to 
ascend  a  high  peak  just  over  the  glacier,  and  from 
that  elevation  decide  the  question  of  the  channel  past 
Cape  Buttress,  as  well  as  obtain  a  view  of  the  distant 
islands.  It  seemed  too  cruel  to  have  to  turn  back 
after  such  hard  work,  without  reaching  the  land  or 
seeing  anything,  and  I  was  pleased  and  encouraged  by 
the  anxiety  the  men  showed  to  make  the  end  of  our 
expedition  more  successful.  But  it  was  not  to  be. 
May  21st — it  snowed  hard  all  day ;  May  22nd — the 
same  ;  and  a  strict  survey  of  the  provisions  warned  us 
that  we  must  start  homewards. 

'  We  left  on  the  evening  of  the  22nd,  a  mournful 
and  disappointed  party  (for  the  feeling  was  shared  by 
all),  with  two  men  walking  by  the  drag  ropes,  and 
none  of  the  others,  Alexander  Gray  and  myself  ex- 
cepted,  any  the  better  for  their  long  rest.  We  found, 
much  to  our  relief,  that  keeping  to  our  old  tracks 
enabled  us  to  do  three  times  the  distance,  as  we  had 
not  to  break  the  road  nor  lift  our  legs.  I  halted  at 
Beef  Island,  and  left  a  record  in  a  cairn  on  its  north 
end,  according  to  my  instructions,  but  reserved  the 


104  -VOYAGE   TO   THE  POLAR  SEA.  MAY 

skeleton  chart  for  a  place  more  likely  to  be  visited. 
We  then  pushed  on  through  the  thickly  falling  snow, 
which  had  not  stopped  for  an  instant ;  though  two  of 
the  men  were  bad,  the  others  soon  warmed  up  to  the 
work  again,  and  the  improved  travelling  enabled  us  to 
get  on  faster  in  spite  of  the  general  thaw,  so  that  we 
reached  the  neighbourhood  of  our  camp  of  the  loth 
on  the  24th,  returning  in  two  days  what  had  taken  us 
six  to  advance. 

'  Just  before  camping  on  the  24th  a  north  wind 
rose,  and,  as  if  by  magic,  the  sky  cleared,  and  it 
became  a  beautiful  morning  :  there  lay  Mount  Hooker 
once  more  in  sight,  distance  about  sixteen  miles,  from 
which,  as  I  believed,  we  should  see  everything ;  it '  was 
too  tempting,  so  the  men  agreeing  eagerly,  the  plan 
was  arranged.  Craig  and  Jenkins  were  to  remain 
with  the  tent,  provisions,  and  gear,  whilst  the  re- 
mainder, with  one  robe,  bags,  and  five  days'  provisions, 
were  to  make  a  dash  for  the  mountain ;  the  provisions 
were  neatly  packed  in  day's  rations,  and  eveiything 
being  ready  we  turned  in  for  a  good  rest. 

4  When  we  awoke  it  was  snowing  hard,  as  if  it 
would  never  stop,  so  not  a  word  was  said,  but  we 
packed  up  and  started  homewards  more  disappointed 
than  I  can  say.  By  the  time  we  had  reached  Dragon 
Point  it  had  cleared  again  ;  this  was  the  place  where  I 
had  settled  to  build  a  cairn,  and  leave  the  chart  and 
record.  One  of  the  highest  mountains  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood was  only  six  miles  off,  so  I  determined  on 
one  more  effort.  The  cairn  was  built,  the  record  and 
chart  deposited,  and  Alexander  Gray  and  I  set  off  for 
the  mountain  ;  it  took  us  six  hours  to  reach  the  top  ; 


1876  BEAUMONT'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  105 

the  view  was  magnificent,  elevation  3,700  feet,  but  I 
did  not  see  what  I  wanted.  The  Mount  Hooker  Land 
hid  the  islands,  and  the  Cape  Buttress  Channel  was 
shut  in.  Mount  Albert  I  could  see  was  a  separate 
island.  Cape  Britannia,  as  far  as  could  be  seen,  had 
very  high  land  far  back.  Stephenson  Land  was  quite 
hidden  behind  Mount  Hooker  Land,  which  latter 
towards  Cape  Buttress  extended  very  far  back  to 
the  eastward.  Cape  Buttress  overlapped  it,  but  inside 
and  above  the  cape  could  be  seen  either  a  hummocky 
floe,  or  a  mer  de  glace,  it  looked  like  a  floe,  but  its  sky- 
line had  a  perceptible  curve  in  it — a  haze  hung  over 
this  part.  By  the  look  of  the  land  and  shore  a  passage 
seemed  to  connect  St.  George's  Fiord  with  St.  Andrew's 
Bay.  St.  George's  Fiord  could  be  traced  continuing 
to  the  south  after  making  a  slight  bend  to  the  west. 
The  view  inland  in  that  direction  stretched  away  with- 
out a  break  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  all  much 
about  the  same  elevation.  Mount  Punch  stood  out 
from  most  of  the  other  mountains,  and  Grant's  Land 
was  distinctly  visible,  the  United  States'  Eange  being 
very  conspicuous.  The  view  was  so  immense  that  to 
sketch  it  would  have  been  the  work  of  a  day.  I  tried 
after  having  taken  a  round  of  angles,  but  the  cold  was 
intense,  and  my  fingers  soon  became  stiff ;  rising  clouds 
warned  us  to  descend,  and  by  the  time  that  we  reached 
the  tent,  twelve  hours  after  starting,  it  was  blowing 
fresh  with  thick  snow  and  fog.  After  a  short  rest  we 
once  more  started,  making  for  Cape  Fulford ;  the 
gloomy  and  unfavourable  weather  had  a  depressing 
influence  on  the  men's  spirits,  who,  poor  fellows,  were 
already  rather  desponding,  for  out  of  seven  only  Gray 


106  VOYAGE  TO   THE   POLAR    SEA.  MAY 

and  myself  were  perfectly  free  from  scorbutic  symp- 
toms, while  the  two  first  attacked  kept  up  with  great 
difficulty. 

'  In  due  course  of  time  we  arrived  at  Cape  Bryant, 
and  camped  below  the  depot. 

'  Quite  a  foot  of  snow  had  fallen  since  we  had 
passed,  and  it  was  rotting  the  old  crust  beneath,  which 
gave  way  under  the  weight  of  sledge  and  men,  and 
made  the  sledge  seem  a  ton  in  weight. 

'  During  the  very  bad  weather,  which  continued 
about  this  time  for  many  days,  I  pitched  the  tent  over 
the  sledge  when  halted  for  lunch,  thus  keeping  the 
men  under  shelter  and  the  gear  dry,  and  providing  a 
comfortable  seat  for  the  sick ;  by  putting  the  sledge 
quite  on  one  side  of  the  tent  there  was  room  enough 
for  all  the  rest  to  sit  alongside  it  on  the  sail  on  the 
other  side. 

'  This  comfortable  rest  of  two  hours  !  with  an  extra 
half-pint  of  tea,  was  thought  more  of,  and  seemed  to 
do  them  more  good,  than  anything  else  we  could 
devise,  and  so  was  adhered  to  for  the  remainder  of  the 
time. 

4  On  the  28th  of  May,  finding  that  we  could  not  go 
on  dragging  the  full  load  (with  four  men)  through  the 
heavy  snow,  we  made  up  a  depot  consisting  of  pemmi- 
can,  a  coverlet,  all  the  knapsacks  and  gear,  spirits  of 
wine,  part  of  the  tent,  &c.,  in  all  about  200  lb.,  and 
got  on  much  better  afterwards.  We  gradually  retraced 
our  steps  until  the  morning  of  the  3rd  of  June.  Up 
to  this  time  the  weather  had  been  one  continuous 
snow-fall  with  thick  fogs ;  the  sun  once  or  twice  came 
out  for  an  hour  or  so  and  then  snow  fell  again.  The 


1876  BEAUMONT'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  107 

sick  were  getting  worse  steadily ;  for  the  last  two  days 
neither  Paul  nor  Jenkins  could  keep  up  with  the 
sledge,  but  crawled  along  after  it,  and  often  kept  us 
waiting,  for  I  would  not  let  them  get  too  far  behind. 
Craig  was  very  bad,  but  still  hobbled  along  with  us. 
Dobing  and  Jones  were  getting  stiffer  and  stiffer,  but 
still  pulled  their  best.  Gray  and  myself  were  the  only 
sound  ones  left.  The  sick  scarcely  ate  anything  ;  they 
could  not  sleep  nor  lie  still. 

'  Having  left  a  record  at  the  cairn,  and  taken  forty 
out.  of  the  eighty  complete  rations,  we  started  again  in 
the  evening,  and  had  not  gone  ten  yards  before  Paul 
fell  down  quite  powerless,  and  from  that  time  until  the 
end  he  was  like  one  paralysed,  his  legs  were  so  com- 
pletely useless  to  him.  Jenkins  still  crawled  along, 
but  his  time  was  drawing  near,  and  on  the  7th  he  took 
his  place  alongside  Paul  on  the  sledge.  We  now  had 
to  make  two  journeys  a  day,  taking  the  provisions  and 
baggage  on  for  half  the  time  and  then  coming  back 
for  the  tent  and  the  sick.  With  great  labour  we  got 
round  Snow  Point,  but  Drift  Point  was  impassable  to 
us,  and  so  we  had  to  go  out  on  the  ice. 

4  On  the  10th  of  June  we  reached  Eepulse  Harbour 
depot,  the  weather  having  once  more  relapsed  into  a 
steady  snow-fall.  Feeling  the  urgent  necessity  of 
getting  the  sick  under  medical  care,  for  both  Paul  and 
Jenkins  were  alarmingly  weak  and  short  of  breath,  I 
read  the  records  carefully,  and  having  considered  the 
matter  in  all  its  bearings  to  the  very  best  of  my  ability, 
I  determined  to  cross  over  to  the  "  Alert."  Everything 
was  to  be  sacrificed  to  getting  over  quickly;  so  we 
again  made  up  a  depot  and  left  everything  we  could 


108        VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.       JUNE 

possibly  spare,  including  the  tent,  gun,  and  my  sextant 
and  knife,  the  only  two  things  I  had  left.  We  started 
on  the  evening  of  the  llth,  and  had  not  got  a  mile 
from  the  shore  hummocks  before  we  came  to  water. 
It  was  a  large  black-looking  pool,  surrounded  for  some 
distance  by  ice,  so  rotten  that  sledge,  sick,  and  all 
would  have  gone  in  at  the  first  step  off  the  thicker 
floe. 

'  This  obstacle  at  the  very  outset,  where  I  so  little 
expected  it,  made  me  stop  short,  knowing  the  strong 
tides  and  currents  that  existed  on  the  other  shore.  I 
felt  that  with  a  sick  and  enfeebled  crew  the  risk  was 
too  great,  so  we  turned  back  and  landed  again.  We 
had  completed  from  the  depot  to  eight  days'  provisions ; 
that  would  have  been  ample  to  cross  with.  Now  we 
had  to  make  the  best  of  our  way  to  Polaris  Bay,  forty 
miles  off.  The  question  was  how  much  more  to  take  ; 
we  ate  so  little,  that  eight  days  would  last  us  twelve 
I  knew,  and  if  we  went  on  as  we  had  done  that  would 
be  enough ;  so  taking  the  tent  and  gun  from  the  depot 
we  started  along  the  coast.  Next  march  Dobing 
broke  down  altogether,  and  Jones  felt  so  bad  he  did 
not  think  he  could  walk  much  longer.  Poor  fellows ! 
Disappointment  at  the  change  of  routes  had  much  to 
do  with  it. 

'  This  was  our  darkest  day.  We  were  forty  miles 
off  Polaris  Bay  at  the  very  least,  and  only  Gray  and 
myself  to  drag  the  sledge  and  the  sick — the  thing  did 
not  seem  possible.  However,  it  was  clear  that  we 
must  take  all  the  provisions,  and  then  push  on  as  long 
and  as  far  as  we  could ;  so  we  went  back  to  the  depot, 
Gray,  Jones,  and  I,  and  brought  the  remainder,  ten 


1876  BEAUMONT'S  RETURN  JOURNEY.  109 

days,  making  us  up   to  eighteen    days  ;  then  on  we 
went. 

'  Craig  now  could  barely  walk,  but  his  courage  did 
not  fail.  Dobing  became  rapidly  worse,  but  fortu- 
nately Jones  revived,  and  there  were  still  three  on  the 
drag-ropes.  We  toiled  painfully  through  M'Cormick 
Pass,  a  very  hard  road,  all  rocks  and  water,  but  very 
little  snow.  The  work  towards  the  end  became  ex- 
cessively severe  on  account  of  the  narrowness  'and 
steepness  of  the  passes.  The  sledge  had  to  be  un- 
loaded and  the  sick  lowered  down  separately  in  the 
sail.  At  last  we  got  into  Newman  Bay,  and  found  the 
travelling  on  the  floe  quite  a  rest ;  but  the  work  had 
told  on  the  men  who  were  left,  and  though  Jones  still 
dragged  with  difficulty,  it  was  evident  that  soon  both 
he  and  Gray  would  be  too  ill  to  pull  at  all.  I  felt 
stiff  and  sore  about  the  body  from  constant  over- 
exertion,  but  I  did  not  exhibit  any  of  the  well-known 
scurvy  symptoms  as  yet.  We  were  travelling  very 
slowly  now,  for  Craig,  who  had  held  out  so  long,  could 
scarcely  stand,  and  he  and  Dobing  had  to  be  waited 
for  constantly. 

'  On  the  21st  of  June  we  camped  about  ten  miles 
from  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  close  to  the  west  or  south 
shore.  It  soon  after  came  on  to  blow  a  gale,  and  the 
squalls  were  so  violent  and  changeable  in  their  direc- 
tion that  all  our  efforts  to  keep  the  tent  standing  were 
unavailing,  and  we  had  to  put  the  sick  on  the  sledge 
and  cover  them  over  with  the  sail ;  but  the  drifting 
snow  which  whirled  around  us  penetrated  everywhere, 
and  soon  wet  them  through,  and  they  caught  colds, 
which  made  Paul  much  worse  afterwards. 


110  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POL  AH  SEA.  JUNE 

4  In  the  afternoon  of  same  day  the  wind  lulled,  and 
by  using  the  guys,  sledge-lashings,  and  drag-ropes,  we 
managed  to  pitch  the  tent  after  an  hour's  hard  work. 
We  put  the  sick  in,  and  tried  to  make  them  comfort- 
able ;  but  the  tent  was  badly  pitched,  and  the  squalls 
from  the  cliffs,  more  like  whirlwinds,  sometimes  made 
the  two  sides  meet  in  the  middle.  We  were  all 
huddled  up  in  a  heap,  wet  through,  and  nobody  could 
sleep. 

'  This  went  on  until  noon  of  the  22nd,  when  the 
wind  having  gone  down  we  repitched  the  tent  and  had 
a  few  hours'  rest,  which  we  so  much  needed.  At  9.30 
we  started ;  but  the  wet  and  cold  had  stiffened  our 
limbs,  and  for  the  first  time  I  felt  the  scurvy  pains  in 
my  legs.  Craig  and  Dobing  almost  dragged  them- 
selves along,  their  breath  failing  entirely  at  every  ten 
yards — this  appears  to  be  the  most  marked  feature  of 
the  advanced  stage  of  the  disease ;  all  four  now,  but 
especially  Paul  and  Jenkins,  gasped  for  breath  on  the 
slightest  exertion — it  was  painful  to  watch  them.  We 
were  a  long  way  from  Polaris  Bay  still,  and  I  did  not 
see  how  we  were  to  reach  it  under  the  circumstances. 

'  On  the  23rd  of  June  it  became  necessary  to  carry 
both  Dobing  and  Craig,  to  enable  us  to  advance  at  all ; 
and  although  this  in  our  weakened  state  made  three 
trips  each  day  necessary,  and  limited  our  advance  to  a 
mile,  yet  we  were  still  moving  on. 

'  On  the  evening  of  the  24th  we  started  for  our  last 
journey  with  the  sledge,  as  I  thought ;  for  finding  that 
Jones  and  Gray  were  scarcely  able  to  pull,  I  had 
determined  to  reach  the  shore  at  the  plain,  pitch  the 
tent,  and  walk  over  by  myself  to  Polaris  Bay  to  see  if 


1876  MEETS   RELIEF  PARTY.  Ill 

there  was  anyone  there  to  help  us ;  if  not,  come  back, 
and  sending  Jones  and  Gray,  who  could  still  walk,  to 
the  depot,  remain  with  the  sick  and  get  them  on  as 
best  I  could.  But  I  thank  God  it  did  not  come  to 
this,  for  as  we  were  plodding  along  the  now  water- 
sodden  floe  towards  the  shore,  I  saw  what  turned  out  to 
be  a  dog-sledge  and  three  men,  and  soon  after  had  the 
pleasure  of  shaking  hands  with  Lieutenant  Rawson  and 
Dr.  Coppinger.  Words  cannot  express  the  pleasure, 
relief,  and  gratitude  we  all  felt  at  this  timely  meeting ; 
it  did  the  sick  men  all  the  good  in  the  world. 

'  Lieutenant  Rawson  had,  in  my  opinion,  acted 
with  great  judgment  in  planning  his  relief  expedition, 
for  had  he  come  sooner  he  not  only  might  have 
missed  us  altogether,  but  the  small  force  at  his  disposal 
would  not  have  been  of  so  much  service.  As  it  was, 
he  came  in  time,  with  sufficient  provisions,  and  by 
one  great  effort  got  us  all  into'  safe  quarters,  as  I  shall 
explain. 

'  We  met  early  on  the  morning  of  the  25th  of 
June,  and  with  the  help  of  his  party  reached  the  New- 
man Bay  depot  the  next  day,  Dr.  Coppinger  watching 
the  four  now  utterly  prostrate  sick  with  unremitting 
attention.  Half  a  day  was  spent  here  in  an  attempt  to 
obtain  a  seal,  but  without  success,  and  so  next  morning 
we  started  for  the  depot  at  Polaris  Bay,  the  dogs,  with 
the  assistance  of  the  three  officers,  dragging  both 
sledges.  It  is  mainly  due  to  Hans'  clever  management 

o  J  o 

of  the  dogs,  and  his  skill  as  a  driver,  that  we  were 
enabled  to  advance  so  rapidly  with  such  a  heavy  load. 
That  evening,  when  we  camped,  we  were  only  twelve 
or  thirteen  miles  from  the  depot.  Both  Paul  and 


112  VOYAGE  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.  JUNE 

Jenkins  were  now  in  a  critical  condition,  but  Paul 
more  so  than  Jenkins. 

'  I  felt  the  importance  of  getting  them  both  to  a 
state  of  complete  rest  as  quickly  as  possible,  an  opinion 
in  which  Dr.  Coppinger  concurred ;  so  on  the  morning 
of  the  28th  Dr.  Coppinger  and  Hans,  with  the  two 
men  on  the  eight-man  sledge  drawn  by  the  dogs, 
started  for  the  Polaris  Bay  depot.  Soon  after,  Lieu- 
tenant Eawson  and  myself,  having  placed  Craig  and 
Dobing  on  the  five-man  sledge,  as  well  as  the  tent  and 
all  the  gear,  but  only  two  days'  provisions,  also  started 
for  the  same  destination.  Jones  and  Gray,  who  could 
still  walk,  though  slowly,  came  on  behind.  Fortu- 
nately for  us  two,  the  wind  helped  us  for  some  time  ; 
but  later  on,  the  travelling  becoming  very  heavy,  we 
were  obliged  to  camp,  having  accomplished  a  little 
over  three  miles. 

'  Next  day,  as  we  supposed  the  sledge  on  its  way 
back  to  us,  and  I  was  anxious  to  move  the  sick  men 
as  little  as  possible,  I  determined  to  await  its  arrival. 
This  did  not  occur  until  3  A.M.  of  the  30th  of  June  ; 
and  the  whole  party  were  so  done,  dogs  and  men,  that 
they  had  supper  and  turned  in.  They  brought  me  a 
letter  from  Dr.  Coppinger  saying  that  he  had.  had  a 
very  arduous  journey,  and  had  not  reached  the  depot 
until  midnight.  The  extremely  rapid  thaw  of  the 
snow  on  the  plain  obliged  them  to  cross  broad  strips  of 
bare  shingle,  while  the  floe  was  so  seamed  with  cracks 
that  they  must  have  travelled  double  the  distance  in 
looking  for  a  road.  The  sick  had  borne  the  journey 
well,  and  eaten  with  good  appetite  on  their  arrival ; 
but  from  noon  of  the  29th,  Paul  had  gradually  grown 


1876         DEATH  OF  CHARLES  PAUL.         113 

weaker  and  weaker  until  he  died  at  5.15  P.M.  Jenkins 
was  no  worse.  I  was  very  much  grieved  at  Paul's 
death.  I  had  watched  him  and  cared  for  him  so  long, 
and  had  hoped  so  that  we  might  not  be  too  late,  that 
I  felt  his  death  very  much.  However,  we  were  not  far 
from  the  end  of  this  arduous  journey  now ;  the  thing 
was  to  get  the  remainder  in  as  soon  as  possible  ;  so  at 
seven  o'clock  we  once  more  started,  Lieutenant  Eawson 
and  his  party  taking  the  sick  on  the  eight-man  sledge 
round  by  the  sledge  route,  while  I  took  Gray  and 
Jones  round  by  the  foot  of  the  hills.  We  three 
reached  the  depot  at  7  A.M.,  and  were  warmly  wel- 
comed and  cared  for  by  Lieutenant  Fulford,  Dr.  Cop- 
pinger,  and  the  two  men  in  camp.  Lieutenant  Eawson, 
with  his  party,  arrived  at  11  A.M.,  after  a  very  heavy 
journey,  having  travelled  nearly  all  the  way  on  bare 
shingle.  So  at  last  we  were  all  safely  in,  in  good 
hands  and  comfortable  quarters. 

'  The  next  day  being  Sunday,  I  read  the  Morning 
Service,  all  of  us  joining  most  heartily  and  fervently  in 
rendering  thanks  to  Almighty  God  for  His  gracious 
mercy  and  protection  towards  us/ 


* 

VOL.    II. 


114  VOYAGE  TO  THE   POLAR  SEA.  JULY 


CHAPTER  IV. 

LEAVE      FLOEBERG     BEACH NAVIGATION     OF     EOBESON    CHANNEL — ITS 

EXTREME  DIFFICULTY CAPE  UNION — STOPPED  AT   CAPE  BEECHEY— 

ESKIMO     REMAINS BRENT     GEESE — REJOIN     THE     'DISCOVERY* 

KILLING  A  MUSK-OX — RETURN   OF   BEAUMONT' S    PARTY. 

THE  gale  which  was  experienced  at  Floeberg  Beach  on 
the  31st  of  July,  and  which  released  the  '  Alert '  from 
her  exposed  position  on  the  shore  of  the  Polar  Sea,  was 
merely  felt  at  the  sheltered  position  of  Discovery  Bay 
as  a  light  air  from  the  southward.  It  is  worthy  of 
note  that  at  the  same  time,  near  the  head  of  Baffin's 
Bay,  Sir  Allen  Young  in  the  '  Pandora '  experienced  a 
very  severe  storm  from  the  southward,  evidently  part 
of  the  same  disturbance  as  that  which  reached  Floeberg 
Beach. 

As  the  '  Alert '  cleared  the  barrier  of  grounded  ice, 
which  had  proved  so  excellent  a  protection  to  her 
during  the  past  eleven  months,  the  Polar  pack  was 
found  to  have  drifted  to  a  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  land,  leaving  a  broad  water-passage  which 
continued  imtil  Eobeson  Channel  was  entered.  '  From 
that  point  the  water-way  gradually  narrowed,  until,  at 
a  position  about  four  miles  north  of  Cape  Union,  the 
pack  pressed  tightly  against  the  shore,  and  formed  an 
effectual  barrier  to  our  farther  progress. 


<   o 

S5  « 


1876  ICE- WALL.  115 

There  being  no  good  protection  attainable  unless 
we  retraced  our  steps  to  Floeberg  Beach,  twelve  miles 
distant,  I  secured  the  ship  in  a  small  indentation  of  the 
ice-foot  or  ice-wall.  Our  position  was  close  to  the 
southward  of  a  number  of  fi oebergs  which  had  grounded 
in  a  line  with  the  shore  outside  of  the  ice- wall.  These 
I  hoped  would  afford  us  some  slight  protection  from 
the  northward ;  but  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Union, 
the  shore  being  steeper,  there  was  nothing  to  keep  the 
Polar  pack  away  from  the  perpendicular  face  of  the  ice- 
wall,  which  was  polished  and  horizontally  striated  by 
the  grinding  of  floating  ice  during  prior  seasons. 

As  we  steamed  along  the  coast  I  noticed  that  only 
those  points  of  land  which  were  exposed  towards  the 
north  bore  traces  of  recent  pressure ;  and  generally 
speaking,  there  were  few  signs  of  the  pack  having  nipped 
against  the  shore — that  is,  with  the  enormous  force 
necessary  to  cast  up  huge  masses  of  ice  and  deposit  them 
on  the  top  of  the  ice- wall,  which  varied  in  height  to 
between  thirty  and  forty  feet ;  the  depth  of  water  along- 
side was  from  five  to  seven  fathoms,  and  permitted 
the  ship  to  run  alongside  it  without  any  fear  of  touching 
the  ground. 

During  the  afternoon  the  pack  drifted  with  the  flood- 
tide  slowly  towards  the  south,  always  nipping  against 
the  ice-wall  close  to  the  southward  of  us,  but  leaving  a 
narrow  water-space  near  the  ship. 

The  ice  in  the  offing  consisted  of  one  large  compact 
floe — that  near  the  shore,  alone,  being  broken  up  and 
loose,  but  in  no  way  navigable. 

About  8  P.M.,  with  the  commencement  of  the  ebb- 
tide, a  small  pool  of  water  formed  on  the  southern  side 

I  2 


116  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

of  a  large  floe  which  prevented  our  advance.  Ex- 
pecting an  opportunity  would  occur  to  glide  past  the 
obstruction,  I  got  under  weigh,  but  was  disappointed, 
the  pack  closing  in  tighter  than  ever  ;  before  I  could 
return  to  our  small  haven  it  had  become  filled  with 
ice.  There  was,  therefore,  nothing  for  it  but  to  retrace 
our  steps  towards  the  north,  looking  for  some  other 
indentation  in  the  ice-wall ;  but  none  was  to  be  found. 
The  main  body  of  the  pack  having  moreover  closed  in 
near  Black  Cape  to  the  northward  and  cut  off"  our 
retreat  in  that  direction,  I  was  obliged  to  secure  the 
ship  between  two  of  the  stranded  floebergs,  but  as  they 
scarcely  projected  farther  from  the  land  ice  than  the 
breadth  of  the  ship,  they  could  hardly  be  expected  to 
afford  us  much  protection. 

In  the  evening,  dark  clouds  collecting  above  Cape 
Lupton  on  the  east  shore  of  the  channel,  with  a  falling 
barometer,  foretold  a  recurrence  of  the  southerly  wind. 

During  the  height  of  the  ebb-tide  the  main  pack 
drifted  fast  towards  the  north,  but  fortunately  left,  in 
our  immediate  neighbourhood,  a  clear  water-space  about 
two  hundred  yards  broad. 

On  the  1st  the  large  '  crossing  floe,'  which  afforded 
so  good  a  sledge  road  during  the  spring,  after  being 
driven  completely  out  of  Eobeson  Channel  towards  the 
north  during  the  southerly  wind  of  the  previous  day, 
had  returned  and  occupied  a  position  close  abreast  of 
the  ship.  At  2  A.M.,  the  commencement  -of  the  flood- 
tide,  the  nip  towards  the  south  eased  a  little,  and  I 
could  have  advanced  a  mile ;  but  there  being  no  pro- 
tection available  I  decided  to  remain  where  we  were. 
At  three  the  officer  of  the  watch  informed  me  that  the 


1876  POLAR   ICE.  117 

pack  was  closing  in  fast.  Although  the  current  had 
changed  in  the  offing,  where  the  ice  was  drifting 
towards  the  south,  that  inshore  was  still  moving  fast  to 
the  north,  the  two  movements  quickly  collecting  the  ice 
near  us.  The  heavy  floe  which  had  previously  stopped 
our  progress  was  drifting  with  the  eddy  current 
towards  the  north,  scraping  its  way  along  the  ice- wall 
in  rather  an  alarming  manner  as  it  advanced  towards 
us.  Steam  being  fortunately  ready,  we  cast  off.  and 
succeeded  in  passing  between  it  and  the  shore  through 
an  extremely  narrow  channel,  most  opportunely  opened 
for  us,  as  it  was  pivoting  round  against  the  enormous 
'  crossing-floe.'  A  few  moments  after  we  had  passed, 
It  closed  in  against  the  ice-wall  at  the  position  we  had 
so  lately  vacated. 

The  difference  between  an  ordinary  floe  and  Polar 
ice  was  here  well  exemplified.  The  former,  composed 
of  ice  about  six  feet  in  thickness,  on  meeting  with  an 
obstruction  is  torn  in  pieces  as  it  presses  past  it ;  the 
latter,  some  eighty  or  a  hundred  feet  thick,  forces 
its  way  past  any  impediment  which  may  be  in  its  course, 
without  damage  to  itself.  Such  was  the  case  on  this 
occasion :  the  Polar  floe,  which  we  only  escaped  by  a 
few  yards,  on  nipping  against  the  heavy  breastwork  of 
isolated  floebergs  lining  the  coast,  some  of  them  forty 
feet  high  and  many  thousand  tons  in  weight,  tilted 
them  over  one  after  another  and  forced  them  higher 
up  the  shore,  without  receiving  the  slightest  harm 
itself,  not  a  piece  breaking  away. 

Steering  onwards  through  a  water-channel,  so  narrow 
that  the  boats  suspended  at  the  davits  touched  the  cliff 
of  the  shore  ice-wall  on  several  occasions,  we  arrived 


118  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

within  two  miles  of  Cape  Union,  but  there  we  were 
again  stopped  at  5  A.M. 

Fortunately,  about  fifty  yards  of  the  ice-wall  had 
been  removed  by  a  summer  torrent,  which  had  melted 
a  passage  for  itself  through  the  icy  barrier,  leaving  just 
sufficient  space  in  which  to  secure  the  ship,  with  her 
side  resting  against  the  steep  beach,  and  water  on  her 
off  side  too  shallow  for  any  deep  floating  ice  to  harm 
us  much. 

The  wind  was  blowing  in  squalls  from  the  south- 
ward, and,  in  consequence,  the  ice  continued  to  drift 
towards  the  north  with  the  flood-tide  when  it  should 
have  been  moving  the  other  way. 

About  nine  o'clock  a  momentary  opening  occurred 
at  the  time  of  high-water,  and  I  was  induced  to  push 
off;  but  within  an  hour  we  were  obliged  to  return, 
and  I  considered  myself  exceedingly  fortunate  when 
we  succeeded  in  regaining  our  small  haven — the  only 
indentation  in  the  ice- wall  for  a  distance  of  two  miles 
either  way — -just  as  the  water- space  was  closed  and 
we  could  not  have  moved  a  ship's  length  in  any  direc- 
tion. Eaising  the  screw  and  rudder,  and  removing  the 
boats  from  the  off-shore  side,  where  they  would  be 
endangered  by  the  ice  should  it  close  in,  we  were  as 
fully  prepared  for  a  nip  as  we  could  be. 

The  following  passage  is  from  my  journal : — 

'  The  ice  between  us  and  the  "  crossing  floe  "  is  of  a 
decidedly  lighter  character  than  we  have  lately  been 
accustomed  to ;  but  floating  in  shallower  water  it  is 
really  more  dangerous  to  us  at  present  than  the 
heaviest  Polar  ice  would  be. 

'  It  is  astonishing  with  what  coolness  we  have  each 


1876  TIDE   IN   ROBESON   CHANNEL.  119 

packed  up  the  very  few  private  articles  we  could  pos- 
sibly carry  with  us  if  the  ship  were  broken  up  by  the 
ice.  When  constantly  facing  danger  such  events  are 
taken  as  a  matter  of  course.' 

At  low-water  during  the  afternoon,  the  wind 
having  lulled  considerably,  the  pack  commenced  to 
set  to  the  southward,  but  except  within  a  distance  of 
about  fifty  yards  ahead  and  astern  of  the  ship  no  water 
was  to  be  seen  anywhere.  The  pack  nipping  against 
the  ice-wall  marked  its  course  by  deep  horizontal 
scratches,  and  although  it  scraped  its  way  past  the 
ship,  owing  to  the  protection  afforded  by  the  small 
haven,  she  was  in  no  way  damaged. 

Tidal  observations  obtained  during  the  evening 
gave  the  time  of  high-water  at  9.55  P.M.  We  had 
therefore  already  caught  up  the  Eobeson  Channel  tide, 
which  is  an  hour  and  a  quarter  later  than  that  at 
Floeberg  Beach.  With  the  ebb-tide  the  pack  drifted 
towards  the  north. 

Soon  after  low-water  on  the  morning  of  the  2nd 
the  in-shore  ice  commenced  moving  towards  the  south, 
while  the  outer  pack  continued  its  course  to  the  north- 
east with  a  westerly  wind,  from  which  the  in-shore  ice 
was  protected  by  the  high  cliffs.  At  6.30  A.M  a 
decided  off-shore  movement  occurring  in  the  ice,  steam 
was  raised,  but  owing  to  an  eddy  current  carrying  the 
rudder  under  the  bottom  of  the  ship,  we  experienced 
so  much  trouble  and  delay  in  shipping  it  that  we  were 
unable  to  start  for  a  space  of  two  hours.  We  then 
steamed  to  abreast  of  Cape  Union,  but  by  that  time  it 
was  high-water,  and  with  the  change  in  the  tidal 
current  the  channel  commenced  to  close.  I  then  ran 


120  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

back  a  distance  of  half  a  mile  to  a  very  slight  inden- 
tation in  the  ice-wall,  so  small  indeed  that  only  one 
end  of  the  ship  could  be  in  the  least  protected  ;  the 
stern  being  the  most  vulnerable  part  was  secured  in 
the  notch.  As  on  the  previous  day,  no  sooner  were  we 
secured  than  the  pack  closed  in  with  the  ebb-tide  and 
there  was  scarcely  any  water  to  be  seen. 

With  our  weakened  crew  we  found  the  constant 
work  with  hawsers  very  laborious,  and  the  services  of 
the  capstan  or  windlass  were  constantly  called  into 
requisition. 

Being  close  under  the  lee  of  Cape  Union,  the  most 
prominent  point  on  the  coast,  the  run  of  the  ice  as  it 
drifted  to  the  northward  retained  its  former  course  and 
left  a  water-pool  about  two  hundred  yards  broad  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  ship ;  there  was 
therefore  no  anxiety  for  her  safety  so  long  as  the  tide 
lasted,  but  with  the  south  running  current  there  would 
be  no  protection  whatever.  Accordingly,  just  before 
low- water  I  was  obliged  to  move  the  ship,  and  while 
the  ice  remained  stationary  we  succeeded  in  forcing 
our  way  into  the  pack  for  a  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  shore  ;  there  the  ship  was  secured  among 
some  fairly  sized  floes  of  light  ice. 

It  was  naturally  with  much  anxiety  on  my  part 
that  I  thus  committed  the  ship  to  be  drifted  helplessly 
with  the  pack,  in  the  hope  and  belief  that  it  would 
convey  us  past  Cape  Union,  and  towards  Lincoln  Bay, 
where  we  might  expect  the  navigation  to  become  less 
difficult ;  but  very  little  choice  was  left  me. 

Although  hitherto  we  had  been  favoured  by  find- 
ing notches  in  the  ice-wall  in  which  to  secure  the  ship, 


1876  DRIFT   PAST   CAPE   UNION  121 

I  knew  that  for  the  next  five  or  six  miles  we  should 
meet  with  an  unbroken  line  of  ice-cliffs.  Indepen- 
dently of  the  chances  of  our  being  carried  by  the  wind 
or  current  towards  the  north-east  out  of  Eobeson 
Channel,  there  was,  I  considered,  less  danger  to  be 
apprehended  in  the  pack  than  if  we  continued  to 
navigate  near  the  shore. 

Shortly  after  the  ship  was  secured  the  whole  pack 
commenced  drifting  towards  the  south,  the  ice  near 
the  land  nipping  against  the  ice-wall  and  showing  how 
fortunate  it  was  that  we  had  moved  the  ship  out  of  the 
way..  The  weather  was  calm,  with  a  clear  atmosphere 
and  only  a  few  misty  clouds  flying  above  the  hill-tops 
from  the  westward.  »The  land  on  either  side  of 
Eobeson  Channel  was  distinctly  visible,  and  the  change 
of  scenery  as  we  drifted  quickly  along,  close  enough  to 
the  western  shore  to  distinguish  every  detail,  afforded 
contemplation  for  the  minds  of  all  during  our  forced 
inactivity.  As  each  man  was  now  sufficiently  ex- 
perienced to  know  the  great  danger  we  were  running, 
this  was  perhaps  a  fortunate  circumstance. 

Observations  obtained  showed  that  while  the  tem- 
perature of  the  water  at  the  surface  was  30°,  at  a  depth 
of  five  fathoms  it  was  29°-5,  and  at  the  bottom  in 
forty  fathoms  29°*0.  An  undercurrent  was  running 
towards  the  south  with  the  first  part  of  the  flood- tide 
faster  than  the  surface  water  was  moving. 

As  we  were  swept  past  Cape  Union,  and  the  land 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lincoln  Bay  came  into  sight, 
I  observed  a  large  water-pool  near  the  shore  at  a 
distance  of  about  six  miles  from  us. 

At  10.30  P.M.,  by  which  time  we  had  been  carried 


122  VOYAGE   TO  THE  POLAR   SEA. 

three  miles  to  the  southward  of  the  dreaded  cape,  the 
ice  inshore  ceased  drifting  to  the  southward,  but  the 
floe  to  which  we  were  secured  continued  its  course. 
Taking  advantage  of  the  momentary  opening  in  the 
ice  thus  occasioned,  I  steamed  towards  the  land  in  the 
vain  hope  of  finding  a  friendly  notch  in  the  ice- wall 
in  which  to  secure  the  ship.  The  water  continuing  to 
favour  us  we  reached  the  shore,  and  I  found  to  my 
intense  relief  that  by  keeping  very  close  to  the  ice- 
wall  we  should  be  enabled  to  force  a  passage  through 
the  lighter  pieces  of  ice  bordering  the  main  pack,  which 
by  this  time  was  being  carried  to  the  northward  by 
the  tidal  current  at  the  rate  of  at  least  two  miles  an 
hour. 

Such  favourable  circumstances  could  not  be  ex- 
pected to  last  for  long,  so  we  proceeded  at  full  speed  ; 
but  this  again  was  a  source  of  danger,  and  the  very 
frequent  changes  of  the  helm  as  we  made  a  tortuous 
course  through  the  narrow  water-channel,  frequently 
grazing  the  ice-wall,  caused  much  excitement. 

At  2  A.M.  on  the  3rd  all  uncertainty  of  our  reaching 
the  water  off  Lincoln  Bay  was  at  an  end,  and,  the 
water-way  gradually  increasing  in  width,  we  bade 
good-bye  to  the  pack  off  Cape  Union  with  no  greater 
damage  than  two  boats  having  been  badly  stove 
against  the  cliff  of  the  ice- wall.  Pieces  of  ice  often 
fell  into  them,  and  that  they  escaped  being  torn  away 
from  the  davits  was  a  subject  of  wonder  and  congratu- 
lation. 

By  this  time  the  fine  weather  had  given  place  to  a 
very  heavy  snow-storm  from  the  south-west,  with  a 
strong  wind,  which  forced  the  ice  off  shore  and  enabled 


1876  CAPE   BEECIIEY.  123 

us  to  pass  Lincoln  Bay  and  Cape  Frederick  VII.  in 
perfectly  clear  water.  This  was  so  complete  a  change 
of  circumstances  that  amid  our  rejoicing  few  cared  to 
think  of  what  would  have  been  our  fate  had  we  not 
fortunately  escaped  from  the  Polar  pack  before  it  com- 
menced to  drift  to  the  northward  with  the  change  of 
tide  and  increasing  fair  wind. 

At  6  A.M.  we  had  passed  Wrangel  Bay,  but  found 
the  ice  blocking  a  passage  towards  Cape  Beechey ; 
accordingly  the  ship  was  secured  to  a  floe  to  give  time 
for  a  channel  to  open.  After  a  delay  of  two  hours  we 
again  proceeded,  and  with  little  trouble  succeeded 
in  reaching  to  within  half  a  mile  of  Cape  Beechey  just 
before  high- water. 

As  at  Cape  Union,  the  north-running  current 
pressed  the  ice  against  the  land  south  of  the  cape,  but 
immediately  to  the  northward  a  small  pool  of  water 
remained  clear ;  in  this  pool,  without  any  other  pro- 
tection, the  ship  was  secured. 

In  the  afternoon,  a  sudden  squall  off  the  land  en- 
abled us  to  round  the  cape  and  to  reach  a  cluster  of 
floebergs  lying  aground  on  the  shallow  beach  to  the 
southward  of  it.  These  afforded  a  fair  amount  of  pro- 
tection, and  the  ship  was  secured  amongst  them  close 
to  the  shore  in  three  fathoms  water. 

At  Cape  Beechey  the  cliff-like  ice-wall  rising  from 
deep  water,  which  is  found  throughout  Eobeson  Chan- 
nel, comes  to  an  end.  South  of  this  cape  the  land 
slopes  gently  down  to  the  sea,  and  is  fronted  by  a 
breast-work  of  floebergs  similar  to,  but  somewhat 
smaller  than,  those  which  line  the  shallow  parts  of  the 
coast  of  the  Polar  Sea. 


124  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  AUGUST 

During  the  4th  the  weather  was  overcast  with  snow 
squalls  from  the  south-west,  with  a  low  barometer  but 
very  little  wind. 

As  the  ice  had  closed  in  and  locked  the  ship  up 
completely,  the  sportsmen  visited  the  lakes  where 
three  musk-oxen  had  been  shot  the  previous  summer 
during  our  passage  north. 

A  number  of  brent  geese  were  found  ;  the  old  birds 
having  moulted  their  pinion  feathers,  and  the  goslings 
not  having  learnt  the  use  of  their  wings,  were  taken  at 
a  disadvantage,  and  fifty-seven  were  shot,  which  proved 
a  very  important  and  opportune  supply  of  fresh  food 
for  the  invalids,  of  whom  we  had  still  eleven  remain- 
ing. Although  unable  to  fly,  these  geese  were  very 
difficult  to  secure,  as  they  kept  out  of  range  on  the 
water  ;  indeed,  few,  if  any,  would  have  been  shot  had 
not  Frederick's  kayak  been  carried  up  to  the  lake  and 
launched  ;  by  this  means  the  birds  were  driven  within 
range  of  the  guns. 

A  large  floe,  apparently  unattached  to  the  bottom, 
occupied  about  three-quarters  of  the  surface  of  the 
lake  ;  its  surface  was  about  twelve  inches  above  the 
water. 

The  convalescents  enjoyed  a  run  over  the  hills, 
and  succeeded  in  picking  a  considerable  supply  ot 
dwarf  sorrel,  but  at  this  late  season  it  had  lost  much 
of  its  flavour. 

In  my  journal  of  this  date  I  wrote  : — c  A  remark- 
able opening  in  the  land  of  Polaris  Peninsula,  five 
miles  to  the  southward  of  Cape  Sunnier,  on  the  oppo- 
site shore  of  the  channel,  looks  so  like  an  indenta- 
tion in  the  coast  that  T  very  strongly  suspect  it  to  be 


1876  REPULSE   HARBOUR.  125 

the  Eepulse  Harbour  of  the  "  Polaris "  expedition. 
After  a  careful  study  of  the  narrative  of  that  voyage, 
and  considering  the  almost  constant  pressure  of  the 
pack  against  the  land  north  of  Newman  Bay,  I  cannot 
think  that  any  vessel  has  ever,  or  will  ever,  reach  that 
shore,  always  supposing  that  she  is  not  carried  there 
against  her  will  by  the  pack.  It  is  therefore  my  duty 
to  future  navigators  to  record  this  belief  in  order  to 
prevent  any  being  blamed  if  they  fail  to  get  to  the 
northward  of  Cape  Brevoort. 

'  It  is  astonishing  how  different  the  ice  is  at  different 
parts  of  Eobeson  Channel.  As  we  came  south  we  met 
lighter  ice,  but  here  we  again  meet  with  heavy  Polar 
floes.  Coupled  with  the  observations  of  Dr.  Bessels 
and  others,  who  state  that  the  heavy  ice  drifts  up 
Lady  Franklin  Sound,  that  opening  would  appear 
to  act  as  a  pocket.  After  being  cleared  by  a  south- 
west wind  driving  the  pack  towards  the  north,  it  is 
sufficiently  large  to  receive  almost  all  the  ice  driven 
from  the  Polar  Sea  through  Robeson  Channel  with  the 
change  of  wind  from  the  north.' 

It  is  only  during  seasons  when  northerly  winds 
prevail  considerably  over  the  westerly  ones  that  the 
heavy  Polar  ice  is  carried  south  in  large  quantities 
down  Kennedy  Channel  into  Kane's  Sea. 

The  speed  of  the  slowly -moving  tidal  currents  in 
the  Polar  Sea  becomes  gradually  accelerated  as  they 
pass  through  the  narrow  Eobeson  and  Kennedy 
Channels.  At  Floeberg  Beach  the  rise  and  fall  of  the 
tide  is  only  from  one  and-a-half  to  three  feet ;  at  Cape 
Frazer,  at  the  south  end  of  Kennedy  Channel,  it  is 
fourteen  feet.  Consequently,  the  ice  in  its  passage 


126  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

southward  through  the  northern  portion  of  that  chan- 
nel is  borne  onward  with  ever-increasing  speed,  and 
leaves  behind  the  more  sluggish  moving  pack  jammed 
together  in  the  funnel-shaped  Robeson  Channel. 

During  our  detention  near  Cape  Beechey,  the  ice 
in  Eobeson  Channel,  which  is  only  thirteen  miles  wide 
at  that  part,  drifted  up  and  down  the  strait  with  the 
tide,  the  wind  having  the  effect  of  increasing  the  speed 
of  the  current  and  the  duration  of  its  flow  both  towards 
the  north  and  the  south. 

As  Captain  Stephenson,  by  his  last  orders,  conveyed 
to  him  via  Polaris  Bay  in  May,  supposed  that  the  two 
ships  would  probably  pass  a  second  winter  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Discovery  Bay,  it  was  necessary  to 
send  him  instructions  to  prepare  the  '  Discovery '  for 
sea,  and  to  inform  him  of  my  intention  to  proceed  to 
England. 

On  the  5th  Mr.  Egerton  with  a  seaman  started 
with  the  necessary  orders.  They  arrived  at  Discovery 
Bay  the  following  morning,  after  a  march  of  nineteen 
hours.  Having  missed  their  way,  they  had  crossed  a 
mountain  range  two  thousand  feet  high,  and  after 
having  walked  at  least  thirty  miles  over  rough  and 
boggy  ground,  arrived  on  board  the  ship  with  their 
boots  completely  worn  out. 

On  the  6th  the  wind  increased  considerably  from 
the  north  until  it  blew  a  gale.  During  the  height  of 
the  flood,  or  south-going  tide,  a  succession  of  heavy 
floe  pieces  passed  us  drifting  down  the  strait,  toying 
with  our  barrier  of  outlying  floebergs,  and  turning  one 
large  one  completely  topsy-turvy.  It  was  firmly 
aground  in  twelve  fathoms  water  on  an  off-lying  shoal 


1876  NEWS   OF  BEAUMONT'S   PARTY.  ]  27 

some  two  hundred  yards  from  the  main  line  of  the 
floebergs,  and  had  been  of  great  service  in  keeping  the 
line  of  the  drifting  pack  at  a  safe  distance  from  us ; 
but  on  this  occasion  the  point  of  a  large  floe  which 
was  drifting  south  close  inshore  brought  the  weight  of 
the  whole  pack  on  this  particular  mass.  As  it  received 
the  pressure,  the  floeberg  was  reared  up  in  the  air  to 
its  full  height  of  at  least  sixty  feet  above  water,  and 
turning  a  complete  somersault  fell  over  with  a  tre- 
mendous splash,  breaking  into  a  number  of  pieces 
with  a  great  commotion,  and  raising  a  wave  sufficient 
to  roll  the  ship  considerably. 

Our  protecting  floeberg  having  been  carried  away, 
the  pack  closed  in,  forcing  the  lighter  floebergs  one 
after  the  other,  as  they  became  exposed,  farther  in- 
shore, and  at  last  nipped  the  ship  slightly. 

In  the  evening  Lieutenant  Eawson  and  two  sea- 
men arrived  from  the  '  Discovery/  and  brought  me  the 
distressing  news  concerning  the  Greenland  division  of 
sledgers  which  has  been  related  in  the  previous  chapter. 
He  further  informed  me  that  Lieutenant  Beaumont  and 
a  party  were  still  at  Polaris  Bay,  but  that  they  had 
intended  starting  on  the  5th  for  Discovery  Bay. 

Although  I  had  the  fullest  confidence  in  Lieutenant 
Beaumont,  I  was  naturally  most  anxious  concerning 
his  crossing  the  strait  when  the  ice  was  so  much 
broken-up  and  the  spring- tides  at  their  greatest  height. 
Consequently,  in  addition  to  our  incessant  watch  for  an 
opening  in  the  ice  by  which  we  might  advance,  many 
an  anxious  look  was  directed  towards  Polaris  Bay,  and 
our  thoughts  were  chiefly  engrossed  on  the  perilous 
position  of  our  comrades  there. 


128  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th,  the  wind  still  blowing 
strong  from  the  north-east,  but  slightly  off  the  land  on 
our  side  of  the  channel,  the  ice  eased  off  shore  and 
cleared  the  nip  round  the  ship,  but  did  not  allow  us  to 
move  to  a  more  sheltered  position. 

In  the  afternoon,  a  temporary  opening  occurring, 
steam  was  raised  and  the  rudder  shipped,  but  owing  to 
some  of  the  ropes  fouling,  the  latter  was  not  ready 
before  the  ice  closed  in  and  imprisoned  us  again. 

From  the  summit  of  Cape  Beechey,  Polaris  Bay, 
being  a  weather  shore,  was  observed  to  be  quite  clear 
of  ice,  with  water  extending  to  a  distance  of  five  or 
six  miles  from  the  land.  Hall's  Basin  was  full  of  ice 
drifting  quickly  to  the  southward  with  the  wind  and 
tide. 

While  the  ship  was  detained  at  Cape  Beechey, 
Captain  Feilden  obtained  some  Eskimo  relics.  The 
spot  where  he  found  them  is  evidently  the  northern 
limit  of  the  migration  of  these  people  on  the  west  side 
of  the  channel.  From  thence  they  have  crossed  to 
Polaris  Bay,  where  their  traces  are  again  met  with. 
In  the  same  neighbourhood  several  rings  of  stones 
marking  the  sites  of  summer  tents  were  found ;  and 
in  one  locality  numerous  flakes  of  rock  crystal  which 
had  been  broken  off  in  the  process  of  making  arrow 
or  harpoon  heads. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th  the  wind  was  blowing 
very  strongly  down  the  channel,  and  completely  pre- 
vented any  ice  drifting  to  the  northward  with  the  ebb- 
tide. With  the  flood,  the  pack  was  carried  past  us  at 
the  rate  of  two  miles  an  hour. 

Owing  to  several  heavy  pieces  of  ice  grounding  out- 


1876  'ALERT'  NIPPED  BY  THE  ICE.  129 

side  our  barrier  line,  the  inner  edge  of  the  pack  was 
guided  more  towards  our  position,  and  at  last  two 
floebergs  wedged  themselves  against  the  ship,  and  after 
forcing  her  very  close  to  the  shore,  nipped  her  to 
such  an  extent  that  she  was  raised  bodily  three  feet. 
She  stood  the  great  strain  remarkably  well,  the  cabin 
doors  opening  and  shutting  almost  as  easily  as  usual. 
A  heavy  piece  of  ice  having  grounded  outside  of  the 
ship,  prevented  our  moving  until  we  had  lightened  it. 
Accordingly  the  fires  were  put  out,  the  boilers  run 
down,  and  all  hands  employed  cutting  down  the 
stranded  floeberg. 

Rawson  and  his  two  men  returned  to  the  '  Dis- 
covery.' Feilden  and  Parr,  walking  to  the  southward, 
found  another  large  flock  of  geese,  but  they  were 
unable  to  shoot  any  for  want  of  a  boat. 

In  the  afternoon  there  was  less  wind.  Polaris  Bay 
was  observed  to  be  free  of  ice,  and  a  few  cracks  had 
opened  in  the  otherwise  close  pack. 

The  northerly  gale  experienced  in  Eobeson  Channel 
between  the  6th  and  the  8th  was  also  felt  by  Sir  Allen 
Young  at  Cape  Isabella,  where,  after  so  zealously 
keeping  his  position  under  very  trying  circumstances, 
surrounded  by  ice  on  a  lee  snore,  it  finally  forced  him 
to  proceed  to  Hartstene  Bay. 

On  the  9th  the  weather  was  fine.  In  the  middle  of 
Hall's  Basin  the  pack  had  opened  slightly,  but  was  in 
no  way  navigable  for  a  ship,  even  had  the  ice  in  our 
neighbourhood  permitted  our  moving. 

A  shooting  party,  with  the  dingy  and  Frederick's 
kayak,  went  to  the  southward  to  look  for  the  brent 
geese  seen  the  day  previously.  They  returned  with 

VOL.    II.  K 


130  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAK   SEA.  AUGUST 

twenty-nine   geese    and    forty-one    goslings.     At   the 
same  time  Dr.  Moss  and  Mr.  White  brought  on  board 
three  hares  and  four  geese  from   another  direction— 
a    very   good   day's   sport ;    the    neighbourhood    was 
named  Brenta  Bay  in  consequence. 

Towards  midnight,  as  the  sun  hid  itself  from  the 
ship  behind  the  northern  hills,  the  temperature  imme- 
diately feU  from  34°  to  30°. 

On  the  10th,  after  three  days'  work,  the  floeberg 
aground  outside  of  us  having  been  sufficiently  reduced, 
floated  at  the  top  of  high- water,  and  the  ship  was  once 
more  free.  At  the  same  time  a  water-channel  opened 
along  shore  and  we  advanced  a  distance  of  five  miles 
without  much  trouble. 

Seals  had  now  become  more  plentiful ;  they  and 
a  few  dovekies  seen  in  the  water-pools  gave  employ- 
ment to  those  with  time  to  spare. 

Early  on  the  llth,  with  the  last  of  the  flood- tide 
the  ice  again  opened  slightly  and  enabled  us  to 
reach  some  large  floebergs  lying  aground  a  little  to 
the  north  of  St.  Patrick's  Bay,  but  by  being  five 
minutes  too  late  we  were  unable  to  enter  the  bay 
before  the  ice  closed  in  with  the  change  of  tide. 
Observing  nine  hares  feeding  on  shore,  Parr  and  Moss 
started  in  pursuit,  and  succeeded  in  shooting  four  out 
of  a  family  party  of  seven. 

On  the  12th,  soon  after  high-water  the  ice  com- 
menced setting  off  shore.  Accordingly  we  at  once 
pushed  on  to  the  southward,  the  water-channel  between 
the  pack  and  the  land  obliging  me  to  enter  St.  Patrick's 
Bay.  After  several  hours'  delay  in  passing  Distant 
Point,  we  opened  Discovery  Bay ;  finding  it  full  of 


187C  ARRIVE   AT   DISCOVERY  BAY.  131 

ice  we  were  obliged  to  secure  the  ship  near  Bellot 
Island  until  the  evening,  when  with  considerable 
trouble,  and  after  many  narrow  escapes  of  being 
nipped,  we  at  last  joined  company  with  the  '  Discovery,' 
after  a  separation  of  eleven  months  and-a-half. 

As  there  were  no  tidings  of  Lieutenant  Beaumont 
and  his  party,  preparations  were  immediately  made 
for  the  '  Alert '  to  cross  the  channel  to  Polaris  Bay  ; 
all  the  invalids  with  the  official  papers  and  natural  his- 
tory collections  being  sent  to  the  '  Discovery.' 

The  ice  not  permitting  us  to  start,  I  visited  the 
look-out  station  with  Captain  Stephenson,  and  from  an 
elevation  of  1,540  feet,  on  a  clear  and  calm  morning, 
obtained  a  magnificent  view,  but,  to  our  great  regret 
and  increasing  anxiety,  nothing  was  to  be  seen  of  the 
travellers.  A  white  object  was  plainly  visible  at  Hall's 
Eest,  but  whether  it  was  Beaumont's  tent  or  the  second 
boat,  which  he  would  be  obliged  to  abandon  and 
leave  there,  it  was  impossible  to  say ;  with  such  fine 
weather  it  was  most  probable  that  he  would  have 
started. 

We  observed  a  large  pool  of  water  in  Polaris  Bay, 
and  that  the  ice  between  Cape  Beechey  and  Cape 
Lupton  was  fairly  navigable,  but  near  Discovery  Bay 
and  elsewhere  in  Eobeson  Channel  it  was  closely 
packed.  On  the  east  side  of  Hall's  Basin  and  at  the 
north  end  of  Kennedy  Channel,  there  was  a  great 
quantity  of  water  near  the  shore,  with  large  floes 
drifting  with  the  tidal  current  in  mid-channel. 

The  look-out  man  reported  that  during  the  last 
northerly  gale  the  heavy  floes  which  streamed  down 
Eobeson  Channel  struck  against  the  projecting  point  of 


K  2 


132  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  AUGUST 

Daly  Peninsula,  packing  heavily ;  the  main  portion 
being  then  carried  into  Lady  Franklin  Sound,  and  only 
a  small  quantity  drifting  into  Kennedy  Channel. 

The  south  end  of  the  United  States  Range  was 
clearly  visible  to  the  westward.  With  the  upper  part 
of  each  valley  filled  with  a  glacier,  the  mountains  pre- 
sented a  totally  different  appearance  from  those  at  the 
north-eastern  end  of  the  range,  the  difference  being 
probably  due  to  the  southern  hills  depriving  the  warm 
winds  of  a  great  part  of  their  moisture. 

On  the  12th  Mr.  Egerton  returned  on  board  with 
part  of  a  musk-ox  killed  by  Lieut.  Rawson  a  few 
days  previously  when  journeying  from  the  '  Alert '  at 
Cape  Beechey  to  Discovery  Bay.  Owing  to  the  length 
of  the  march  Rawson  and  his  two  companions 
were  as  lightly  accoutred  as  possible.  Near  St. 
Patrick's  Bay  two  musk-oxen  were  sighted,  a  cow 
and  a  bull  calf.  Although  there  was  no  gun  with  the 
party,  Rawson  decided  upon  attacking  the  animals  with 
his  knife.  The  following  is  his  narrative  of  the  en- 
counter : — 

'  Not  having  any  fire-arms  with  us,  and  knowing 
how  much  fresh  meat  was  required,  we  determined  to 
try  and  drive  them  down  towards  the  ship  ;  for  which 
purpose  we  made  a  circuit  and  got  inland  of  them, 
hoping  to  drive  them  towards  a  small  ravine.  On  sight- 
ing us  they  immediately  prepared  to  defend  themselves, 
standing  back  to  back  ;  whereupon  we  attacked  them 
with  stones,  gradually  closing  in.  At  first  they  took 
little  heed  of  our  volleys,  but  as  we  got  nearer 
and  made  better  throwing  they  commenced  snorting, 


1876  MUSK-OXEN.  133 

bellowing,  and  tearing  up  the  ground  with  their  fore- 
paws.  On  our  endeavouring  to  get  on  their  flanks  they 
turned  their  front,  pivoting  round  on  their  hind  legs 
and  always  keeping  back  to  back  with  their  heads 
towards  two  out  of  the  three  of  us. 

'  As  my  hunting-knife  and  one  of  the  men's  alpen- 
stocks were  our  only  weapons,  there  appeared  to  be 
little  chance  of  my  getting  near  enough  to  use  the 
knife  so  long  as  they  kept  in  this  position. 

'  By  the  time  we  had  approached  to  about  five  or 
six  yards  we  discovered  that  they  were  extremely  sen- 
sitive in  the  nose  ;  and  after  a  few  well-directed  stones 
the  cow  broke  through  our  line  and  made  for  the  hills. 
We  then  closed  on  the  young  bull.  Charging  me  he 
also  succeeded  in  escaping,  and  would  have  tripped  me 
up  had  I  not  jumped  out  of  his  -way,  much  to  the 
amusement  of  the  men. 

'  We  then  again  surrounded  them  on  the  side  of 
the  hill,  flinging  stones  all  the  time  ;  when  nearly  close 
enough  for  striking  with  the  knife  the  cow  charged 
and  three  times  forced  me  to  retreat  up  the  hill. 
Finding  that  I  could  get  out  of  the  way  pretty  easily, 
I  felt  more  courageous,  and  at  last,  after  a  well-directed 
shot  with  a  stone,  I  managed  to  plunge  the  knife  into 
her  side.  She  was  round  at  once,  but  I  managed  to 
keep  above  her  on  the  hill-side,  and  following  her  up 
struck  her  three  more  blows. 

'Although  bleeding  profusely  I  could  not  reach 
her  heart,  so  at  the  suggestion  of  one  of  the  men  we 
lashed  the  knife  on  to  the  alpenstock.  I  felt  con- 
siderably more  at  ease  with  the  lengthened  weapon,  and 


134  VOYAGE   TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

after  three  more  stabs  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the 
animal  stagger,  fall,  and  then  roll  down  the  hill  for 
about  a  hundred  yards,  dead. 

'  The  young  bull,  who  had  been  making  himself 
rather  annoying  ah1  this  time  by  every  now  and  then 
getting  behind  us,  now  stood  watching  the  carcase. 
Thinking  this  was  an  opportunity  not  to  be  lost,  I 
succeeded  in  stabbing  him,  but  in  the  confusion  he 
managed  to  break  through  our  line  and  escape  over 
the  hills  at  such  speed  as  to  render  it  useless  our  fol- 
lowing.' 

On  the  morning  of  the  13th  the  '  Alert '  crossed 
Discovery  Harbour  and  reached  some  ice  aground 
near  the  breakwater  at  the  entrance ;  there  she  was 
secured,  ready  to  start  for  Polaris  Bay  immediately  an 
opportunity  occurred.  The  water-pools  on  the  break- 
water, each  fringed  by  a  bright  green  border  of  moss, 
which  afforded  the  skaters  exercise  on  the  2  6th  of  August 
last  year,  were  at  this  period  being  used  as  a  rendez- 
vous by  the  ducks  and  wading  birds  flocking  together 
preparatory  for  their  migration  south.  They  were  very 
shy,  and  although  much  patience  was  displayed  by  the 
sportsmen  only  three  or  four  were  shot.  Only  female 
ducks  were  seen,  the  male  birds  having  apparently 
started  south  by  themselves,  leaving  the  care  of  the 
young  birds  to  the  female  parents. 

At  this  season  the  ground  was  evidently  hardening 
for  the  winter.  During  the  spring,  long  before  the 
temperature  of  the  air  was  above  freezing  point,  the 
earth  became  pulverized  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three 
inches,  all  the  moisture  which  had  rendered  it  hard 
throughout  the  winter  having  evaporated.  During  the 


1876  LIEUT.   BEAUMONT  ARRIVES.  135 

latter  part  of  the  summer,  the  moisture  again  collects 
as  dew  and  the  earth  hardens  completely. 

The  tops  of  the  hills  were  now  covered  with 
newly  fallen  snow  which  remained  unrnelted.  The 
water  in  the  small  ravines  had  stopped  running,  and 
the  large  ones  could  be  easily  crossed  on  stepping- 
stones  without  wetting  our  feet. 

Although  ice  did  not  form  on  the  largest  water- 
spaces  in  the  pack,  the  floes  were  already  being 
cemented  together  during  calm  weather,  and  all  the 
water-pools  on  the  surface  of  the  floes  were  covered 
with  ice  almost  strong  enough  to  bear  a  man's  weight. 

On  the  14th  our  anxiety  concerning  Beaumont's 
party  was  put  an  end  to  by  our  seeing  his  encampment 
only  two  miles  distant  from  us  on  the  ice.  A  relief 
party  was  immediately  despatched  to  his  assistance,  and 
after  a  few  hours  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the 
members  of  the  Expedition  collected  together  again. 
This  satisfaction  was,  however,  considerably  marred 
by  the  thought  that  four  of  our  original  number  had 
sacrificed  their  lives  in  the  performance  of  their  duties. 

Beaumont  gave  the  following  account  of  his  perilous 
journey  across  Hall's  Basin,  during  which,  notwith- 
standing the  indomitable  perseverance  of  the  leader 
and  his  companions,  but  for  a  providential  south-east 
wind  setting  in,  they  would  have  been  driven  into 
Kennedy  Channel,  and  in  all  human  probability  have 
sacrificed  their  lives. 

'  August  Sth.  Polaris  Bay. — A  bright  beautiful  day, 
but  still  blowing. 

'  Everything  is  packed  up  and  ready,  and  we  are 
only  waiting  for  the  wind  to  go  down.  A  thick  mist 


136  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  AUGUST 

lying  in  the  channel  indicates  open  water,  but  prevents 
us  seeing  what  the  ice  is  doing. 

'  Noon.  The  wind  is  going  down,  and  the  clouds 
clearing  away  off  Cape  Lupton  ;  a  sure  sign  of  fine 
weather. 

'  Went  up  the  hill,  as  the  mist  cleared  away,  to 
inspect  the  ice.  A  great  change  'has  taken  place  ;  the 
old  ice  of  the  basin  has  gone  south  apparently,  and  is 
replaced  by  large  and  heavy  floes  from  the  north; 
they  are  still  travelling  at  a  great  rate  in  consequence 
of  the  wind. 

'  It  is  evident  that  we  shall  have  a  large  amount 
of  boat  work.  I  wish  we  could  take  the  twenty-foot 
ice-boat,  but  she  is  too  heavy.  We  must  wait  until  it 
is  quite  calm,  as  the  fifteen-foot  ice-boat  when  loaded 
is  only  three  inches  out  of  the  water. 

'  9  P.M.  It  is  now  quite  calm  as  far  as  we  can  see. 
Closed  the  house  ;  secured  everything,  and  started  at 
10  P.M.  in  the  fifteen-foot  ice-boat,  with  the  sledge 
towing  astern.  We  are  so  deep  and  the  sledge  so 
heavy,  that  we  are  going  very  slow ;  pulled  nearly  to 
Cape  Lupton,  and  then  took  the  ice,  shaping  course 
for  St.  Patrick's  Bay.  After  two  hours'  work  entered 
a  large  space  of  water ;  it  was  a  time  of  great  anxiety 
to  me,  as  we  could  barely  keep  the  water  out  of 
the  boat — it  was  three  miles  broad.  Disembarked 
on  the  opposite  side,  placed  the  boat  on  the  sledge, 
and  started  across  the  floe.  During  the  rest  of  the 
march  we  proceeded  in  a  similar  manner ;  each  time 
we  embarked  or  disembarked  it  was  necessary  to  un- 
load the  boat,  either  to  launch  her  or  haul  her  up. 

'  Though  we  seem  to  have  been  drifted  south,  we 
have  made  very  good  progress,  and  when  we  camped 


1876  JOURNEY  ACROSS   HALL'S  BASIN.  137 

at  2.20  P.M.  we  had  been  sixteen  hours  at  work  and 
had  done  ten  miles.  The  convalescents,  are  standing 
the  work  well. 

'  I  am  sorry  to  find  that  the  ice  we  are  on  is  in 
motion,  drifting  south. 

'  $th  and  Wth. — I  have  been  up  several  times 
watching  the  ice,  and  now  that  a  little  breeze  has 
sprung  up  we  are  drifting  faster  ;  so  I  called  the  men, 
and  we  prepared  for  a  start. 

'  Started  at  9.50  P.M.  We  must  have  been  swept 
back  a  long  way  during  our  halt  to  the  south  and  east. 
Worked  hard  until  lunch  to  make  it  up,  amongst  high 
but  small  floes,  surrounded  by  rubble.  It  would  take 
much  too  long,  and  would  be  difficult  to  describe  the 
variety  of  obstacles  and  delays  which  we  met  with, 
and  we  have  made  so  little  way,  that  I  don't  think  we 
have  even  kept  our  ground  against  the  southerly  drift. 
Now  the  ice  appears  to  be  stationary,  and  we  are 
stopped  for  lunch. 

'  Started  again  in  an  hour  and  struck  straight  in 
towards  Bellot  Island,  to  get  out  of  the  influence  of 
the  drift, 

'  Camped  at  11.30  A.M.,  having  been  fourteen  hours 
at  work  ;  Dr.  Coppinger  is  watching  the  convalescents, 
as  it  won't  do  to  overwork  them. 

'  We  are  much  farther  south  than  we  were  yester- 
day, and  not  so  far  across. 

'10^,  1M,  and  12th.—  We  have  been  drifted 
south  several  miles  during  the  halt,  and  matters  are 

o  ' 

looking  serious.  We  are  now  abreast  of  Cape  Lieber, 
and  if  this  goes  on  we  shall  be  swept  into  Kennedy 
Channel,  and  unable  to  regain  the  ship. 

'  Coppinger  and  myself  are  quite  of  opinion  that  an 


138  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

effort  must  be  made,  for  even  with  the  very  hard  work 
that  we  are  doing  now,  we  are  losing  ground  every 
hour — even  on  the  march  we  seem  hardly  to  recover  it. 

'  Started  at  11  P.M.,  with  the  intention  of  going  in 
straight  for  Cape  Baird,  and  reaching  it  before  we 
stopped. 

'  We  worked  steadily  on  to  lunch,  then  from  lunch 
on  to  camping  time. 

'  At  that  time  a  breeze  sprang  up  from  the  west 
and  set  the  ice  in  motion,  clearing  it  away  from  Cape 
Lieber. 

'  The  water  was  making  fast  on  the  west  side  of 
Kennedy  Channel ;  everywhere  the  ice  was  on  the 
move,  and  we  were  obliged  to  go  on. 

'We  had  been  slowly  going  south  all  day,  and 
now  Cape  Baird  was  in  a  line  with  Bellot  Island,  and 
we  could  not  see  the  south  shore  of  Peter mann  Fiord. 
There  was  no  time  to  take  angles  or  bearings,  or  even 
to  keep  a  record  of  events.  The  change  from  sledging 
to  boating,  and  vice  versa,  became  so  frequent  and 
hurried,  that  we  had  not  time  to  unload,  but  did 
everything  at  full  speed,  to  the  imminent  risk  of  both 
sledge  and  boat. 

'At  about  10.15P.M.  the  wind  changed  to  the 
south-east,  and  began  to  blow  the  ice  back  again,  and 
from  that  time  we  made  real  progress ;  eventually 
reaching  the  land  by  boat  between  Cape  Lieber  and 
Cape  Baird  at  7  A.M.,  12th  of  August,  after  having 
been  under  weigh  thirty-five  hours. 

'  The  men,  and  especially  the  convalescents,  are 
dead  beat. 

'  13th  and  I&h. — As  there  was  no  danger  of  being 


1876  JOURNEY   ACROSS   HALL'S   BASIN.  139 

drifted,  I  let  them  sleep  on,  while  Coppinger  and  my- 
self walked  to  Cape  Baird  to  examine  the  ice  in  Lady 
Franklin's  Strait. 

'  It  was  getting  very  misty,  but  we  were  in  time. 
All  the  ice  that  was  out  yesterday  is  back  again  close 
to  the  shore  ;  it  seems  quite  fast  between  Bellot  Island 
and  ourselves. 

4  Saw  two  ships  lying  in  Discovery  Bay.  The 
"  Alert  "  being  down  made  me  think  that  they  might 
be  waiting  for  us  ;  so  we  built  a  cairn  and  went  back  ; 
had  lunch  and  started  by  boat  through  dense  rubble 
for  a  short  distance. 

4  Worked  steadily  -from  7  A.M.  until  5  A.M.  (14th), 
with  two  halts  for  food. 

'  I  was  very  anxious  to  get  over  in  one  march,  but 
it  corning  on  thick,  and  Doctor  Coppinger  representing 
it  as  advisable  for  the  sake  of  the  men  not  to  go  on, 
we  camped. 

'  We  could  see  the  "  Alert "  quite  plainly  when  the 
fog  lifted. 

'  We  have  been  at  work  twenty-two  hours  ;  no 
boating ;  all  dragging. 

'  Uth. — While  we  were  having  breakfast,  prepara- 
tory to  a  start,  we  heard  a  cheer,  and  running  out  met 
Commander  Markham  and  his  party,  who  had  left  the 
"  Alert  "  to  come  to  our  assistance.  They  brought  us  a 
supply  of  most  tempting  provisions,  fearing  that  we 
might  be  in  want. 

1  Soon  afterwards  we  started  in  their  company,  and 
reached  the  "  Alert "  without  further  accident. 

'  Probable  distance  travelled  from  Polaris  Bay  to 
Bellot  Island,  sixty  miles.' 


140  VOYAGE  TO   THE  POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 


CHAPTEE  V. 

RICH    VEGETATION BELLOT    ISLAND — COAL    SEAM CAPE    MURCHISON — 

LEAVE       DISCOVERY      BAY — OPEN      WATER — KENNEDY      CHANNEL — 

STOPPED     BY     THE     PACK 'ALERT*     FORCED    ON     SHORE — SEVERE 

STORM — STOPPED  OFF  CAPE  FRAZER  -  DOVEKIES — ENTER  DOBBIN 
BAY — TEMPERATURE  AND  SPECIFIC  GRAVITY  OF  THE  SEA LATE- 
NESS OF  THE  SEASON — FORMATION  OF  ICEBERGS — SHORT  SUPPLY 
OF  COAL — PASS  VICTORIA  HEAD OPEN  WATER VISIT  CAPE  ISA- 
BELLA— NEWS  FROM  ENGLAND — SIR  ALLEN  YOUNG — NAVIGATION 
OF  SMITH  SOUND. 

AFTER  the  return  of  Lieutenant  Beaumont  and  his  men 
from  Polaris  Bay,  all  the  shooting  parties  were  recalled 
to  their  vessels,  and  the  two  ships  prepared  for  their 
voyage  southward ;  but  no  movement  occurring  in 
the  ice  outside  of  Discovery  Bay,  we  were  unable  to 
start  for  several  days. 

On  the  southern  slopes  of  Bellot  Island,  which 
were  sheltered  from  the  north  winds  and  received  the 
full  force  of  the  mid-day  sun,  the  vegetation  was 
remarkably  rich.  Six  species  of  saxifrage  were  com- 
mon, and  the  beautiful  Hesp&ris,  with  its  lilac  blossoms, 
attained  a  height  of  eight  or  ten  inches ;  considerable 
patches  were  also  covered  with  Androsace  septen- 
trionalis,  and  a  single  species  of  fern  grew  abundantly 
under  the  shelter  of  boulder  rocks.  Many  other 
plants,  which  I  have  not  enumerated,  were  collected 


]876  ARCTIC   VEGETATION.  141 

on  the  same  spot,  and  it  would  thus  appear  that  a 
favourable  combination  of  soil,  shelter  from  winds,  and 
full  exposure  to  the  sun  have  more  to  do  witli  the 
development  of  flowering  plants  in  the  Polar  regions 
than  parallels  of  latitude. 

Two  ermines,  a  male  and  female,  were  shot  by 
Lieutenant  GifFard  on  Bellot  Island.  We  had  pre- 
viously obtained  a  specimen  in  a  fox's  earth  north  of 
Floeberg  Beach,  and  Beaumont  shot  one  on  the  shores 
of  North  Greenland.  Although  a  great  number  of 
hares  had  been  shot  by  the  sportsmen  from  the  '  Dis- 
covery,' there  still  remained  a  large  number  ;  many 
of  these  were  secured,  and  provided  a  daily  meal  of 
fresh  meat  for  our  sick  men  while  we  remained  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

During  our  enforced  detention  in  Discovery  Bay 
the  dredge  and  trawl  were  several  times  called  into 
requisition. 

On  the  16th,  the  weather  still  remaining  distress- 
ingly fine  and  calm,  an  excursion  was  made  to  the 
coal-beds  near  Cape  Murchison.  This  deposit  of  coal, 
or,  more  correctly,  lignite,  is  exposed  in  a  ravine  near 
Watercourse  Bay,  for  a  distance  of  over  two  hundred 
yards.  At  its  greatest  exposure  the  thickness  of  the 
seam  is  twenty-five  feet,  but  we  had  no  means  of 
ascertaining  how  much  deeper  it  descended  below  the 
level  of  the  stream.  Above  the  coal  are  beds  of  shale 
and  sandstones.  In  these  shales  were  found  a  con- 
siderable number  of  leaf  impressions,  similar  to  those 
found  in  the  Miocene  coal-bearing  strata  of  Disco 
Island  and  the  Nursoak  Peninsula,  as  also  in  Spits- 
bergen, leaving  no  doubt  as  to  the  geological  age  of 


142  VOYAGE  TO   THE  POLAR   SEA.  AUGUST 

this  Grinnell  Land  lignite.  The  coal  was  pronounced 
after  trial  by  our  engineers  to  be  equal  to  the  best 
Welsh.  The  seam  where  exposed  is  at  an  elevation  of 
about  two  hundred  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  at  a 
distance  of  about  a  mile  from  the  shore  of  Watercourse 
Bay,  in  Eobeson  Channel.  Unfortunately  very  little 
shelter  is  obtainable  for  a  large  vessel  among  the  small 
floebergs  stranded  in  this  indentation.  The  distance 
between  the  coal-seam  and  Discovery  Bay  is  about 
four  miles,  and  the  track  leads  over  the  brow  of  a  hill 
about  800  feet  high. 

A  short  distance  above  the  quarry,  in  a  narrow 
part  of  the  ravine  where  a  large  quantity  of  snow, 
collected  in  a  shaded  part,  remains  unmelted  during 
the  summer,  the  mountain  torrent  has  melted  away  a 
watercourse  for  itself  through  the  snow  bank.  In 
winter  this  ice  grotto,  with  a  trifling  expense  of  la- 
bour, could  be  readily  formed  into  a  convenient  Arctic 
residence. 

On  the  17th  we  again  visited  the  coal  seam,  ob- 
taining a  considerable  collection  of  fossils.  With  a 
temperature  of  35°  we  found  geologising  very  cold 
work.  The  stream  in  the  ravine  was  still  running,  but 
ice  was  forming  in  the  water. 

In  my  journal  I  find  the  following  remarks : — 

'  Now  that  the  temperature  at  night  falls  to  28°, 
it  is  difficult  to  account  for  water  running  from 
uplands  over  the  frozen  lowlands  unless  we  suppose  it 
to  come  from  some  sheltered  valley  with  a  southern 
aspect. 

'  A  lake  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea  thus  favour- 
ably situated  gives  no  sign  of  freezing,  but  we  can 


1876 


COAL   SEAM. 


143 


obtain  no  water  anywhere  on  the  lowlands.    The  pools 
of  water  on  the  surface  of  the  ice  are  now  frozen  over 
thick   enough  to  bear    our   weights   in   most   places 
During  an  excursion  to-day  we  caught  several  butter- 
flies and  caterpillars,  also  some  bluebottle  flies.' 

About  one  hundred  yards  from  the  shore  of  Dis- 
covery Bay  Dr.  Moss  picked  up  part  of  a  human  femur. 
This  was  the  only  portion  of  a  human  skeleton  found 
northward  of  Port  Foulke. 

While  swinging  the  '  Alert '  to  ascertain  the  error 


POST    OFFICE    CAIRN. 


of  the  compasses,  her  stern  took  the  ground  with  the 
falling  of  the  tide.  She  floated  again  without  damage 
as  the  tide  rose. 

On   the    18th   Captain   Stephenson    deposited   an 
account  of  our  proceedings  in  a  cairn  which  had  been 


144  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR   SEA.  AUGUST 

constructed  out  of  the  empty  preserved  meat-tins, 
refilled  with  gravel.  A  post-office  box  was  placed  in 
the  centre  of  the  pile. 

The  'Discovery'  then  crossed  the  bay  and  anchored 
near  Bellot  Island.  A  heavy  floe  drifting  past  forced 
her  on  shore  with  the  falling  tide ;  but  after  a  few 
hours'  discomfort,  caused  by  the  ship  heeling  fifteen 
degrees,  the  rising  tide  floated  her  again,  without  the 
ship  having  suffered  any  damage. 

From  the  summit  of  Bellot  Island  I  observed  that 
the  ice  in  Lady  Franklin  Sound  was  commencing  to 
move,  and  that  water-pools  were  forming  along  the 
eastern  edge  of  a  very  large  floe  which  extended  half- 
way across  the  mouth  of  the  sound.  On  the  south-east 
shore  a  broad  water-channel  extended  along  the  foot 
of  the  cliffs  of  Daly  Peninsula,  and  although  it  was 
nearly  calm  at  Bellot  Island  the  waves  raised  in  the 
water  showed  that  a  strong  southerly  wind  was  blow- 
ing on  the  opposite  coast. 

As  there  was  apparently  a  better  prospect  of  our 
being  able  to  escape  by  the  passage  on  the  western 
side  of  the  island,  the  two  ships  proceeded  to  that 
entrance,  and  after  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  push 
out  into  the  ice,  in  which  the  '  Alert '  damaged  her 
rudder,  were  secured  amongst  some  heavy  pieces  of 
ice  stranded  on  a  ten-fathom  bank  which  extends 
across  the  entrance  and  connects  Bellot  Island  under 
water  with  the  peninsula  to  the  westward  of  it. 

On  the  19th  the  officer  of  the  watch  kept  his  look- 
out from  the  high  land  of  Bellot  Island.  During  the 
ebb-tide  the  ice  gave  promise  of  opening,  and  we 
tried  to  force  our  way  along  the  edge  of  the  large  floe, 


o 

I  ^ 
w  .: 

n 


1876  CROSS   LADY  FRANKLIN   SOUND.  145 

but  after  an  hour's  expenditure  of  coal  were  compelled 
to  give  up  the  attempt. 

The  south-west  wind  was  still  blowing  strongly  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  sound,  but  for  some  reason 
it  did  not  extend  across  the  ice  to  our  shore.  It 
was,  however,  gradually  enlarging  the  water-space 
near  Daly  Peninsula,  and  kept  us  on  the  qui  vive.  A 
channel  had  formed  across  the  sound  from  Keppel 
Head,  but  the  ice  remained  close  to  the  shore  between 
it  and  the  ships.  At  Cape  Baird  the  water  remained 
open  with  both  tides,  which  proved  that  there  was  not 
much  ice  in  the  neighbourhood. 

During  the  night  the  large  floe  already  referred  to 
was  driven  against  Bellot  Island  ;  being  then  unable 
to  move  readily  with  the  ebb-tide,  the  water-pools  on 
its  western  edge  closed  up,  while  those  on  its  north-east 
side  showed  signs  of  opening.  Accordingly,  on  the 
morning  of  the  20th,  while  I  went  to  the  top  of  the 
island,  Captain  Stephenson  took  the  ships  back  into 
Discovery  Bay.  From  the  summit  of  the  hills  I 
observed  that  there  was  only  one  narrow  nip  left 
unopened,  and  that  was  close  to  Bellot  Island.  At 
low-water  an  eddy  current  opened  a  channel  just  wide 
enough  for  us  to  pass  through,  and  with  a  little 
trouble  we  succeeded  in  reaching  the  water  on  the 
southern  shore  of  the  sound. 

We  left  Discovery  Harbour  in  a  perfect  calm,  but 
on  nearing  the  edge  of  the  pack  met  with  a  strong 
south-westerly  wind  blowing  up  Lady  Franklin  Sound 
and  Kennedy  Channel.  It  is  remarkable  that  for  the 
three  previous  days  this  wind  had  been  blowing  on  the 
southern  shore  without  penetrating  across  the  bay.  In 

VOL.11.  L 


146  VOYAGE   TO  THE  POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

consequence,  the  ice  in  Hall's  Basin  was  not  driven  to 
the  northward  but  remained  closely  packed.  The 
water-channel  east  of  Cape  Lieber  was  six  miles  in 
breadth,  the  pack  having  collected  on  the  eastern  side 
of  Kennedy  Channel. 

Passing  Carl  Bitter  Bay,  it  was  seen  to  be  filled 
with  ice  ;  but  with  that  exception  we  met  none  on 
the  western  shore  until  we  were  abreast  of  Franklin 
Island.  From  thence  to  the  southward  it  gradually 
became  thicker  and  thicker,  until  at  4  A.M.  of  the  21st, 
when  abreast  of  Eawling's  Bay,  and  in  the  same 
latitude  as  the  '  Polaris  '  was,  when  beset  in  the  pack 
in  1872,  we  were  also  in  danger  of  being  cut  off  from 
the  land.  I  accordingly  turned  back,  and  succeeded 
in  gaining  the  shore  shortly  before  low-water. 

Cape  Lawrence,  which  forms  the  northern  entrance 
to  the  deepest  bay  on  the  coast,  is  by  far  the  most 
magnificent  of  the  many  remarkable  headlands  that  so 
profusely  adorn  Kennedy  Channel.  A  grand  castel- 
lated cliff  rises  precipitously  from  the  sea  to  a  height 
of  about  2,000  feet.  From  its  top  the  land  slopes 
upwards  for  a  distance  of  three  miles  and  attains  an 
altitude  of  at  least  3,000  feet. 

On  reaching  the  shore  I  steamed,  as  I  had  lately 
been  in  the  habit  of  doing,  towards  the  'ice-wall,' 
thinking  to  make  the  ships  fast  to  it  while  waiting  for 
the  flood- tide  to  carry  away  the  ice  to  the  southward. 
But  I  found  that  there  was  not  sufficient  depth  of 
water  alongside  for  the  ships.  In  fact,  we  had  bidden 
adieu  to  the  lofty  ice-fringe  bordering  the  shore,  which 
is  formed  by  the  pressure  of  the  heavy  Polar  pack 
continually  casting  up  new  pieces  of  ice  until  a  solid 


1876  ICE-FOOT.  147 

wall  is  produced,  rising  out  of  water  sufficiently  deep 
to  float  the  ships  in,  and  standing  thirty  feet  high ;  and 
had  returned  to  the  region  where  the  shore  is  merely 
bordered  by  an  '  ice-foot,'  the  upper  surface  of  which 
is  level  with  the  top  of  high-water,  and  the  bottom  of 
its  ice-cliff  is  at  the  low-water  level. 

In  Kane's  Sea,  off  the  exposed  capes  which  receive 
great  pressure,  the  ice  becomes  piled  up  on  the  '  ice- 
foot '  until  a  solid  cliff  is  formed  something  like  that 
to  the  northward,  but  the  water  at  the  edge  of  the  cliff 
is  never  more  than  about  a  fathom  deep  at  low- tide. 

With  the  flood-tide  the  ice  left  the  northern  shore, 
but  packed  against  Cape  Joseph  Good.  As  the 
weather  looked  threatening,  with  a  very  rapidly  rising 
barometer,  we  ran  up  the  bay,  hoping  to  find  shelter 
for  the  ships.  Entering  a  land-locked  basin,  named 
Eadmore  Harbour  (after  one  of  Commander  Markham's 
sledge  companions),  I  found  several  pieces  of  icebergs 
grounded  on  the  shore,  and  secured  the  'Alert'  to 
one  of  them  ;  the  '  Discovery '  going  farther  in  and 
making  fast  to  some  last  winter's  ice  which  had  not 
yet  broken  up. 

At  the  head  of  the  bay  we  observed  a  discharging 
glacier,  which  was  evidently  the  parent  of  the  numerous 
small  icebergs  studding  the  harbour.  This  was  to  us 
a  very  unusual  sight,  as  we  had  not  seen  any  since 
leaving  Bessel's  Bay  in  August  the  previous  year.  The 
glacier  was  named  Jolliffe,  after  another  of  Markham's 
men. 

It  being  spring-tides,  the  current  ran  with  great 
strength  into  the  bay,  bringing  with  it  a  large 
quantity  of  ice,  which  gradually  filled  up  the  harbour  ; 

L  2 


148 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA. 


AUGUST 


but  in  such   a   sheltered   position   I   never   expected 
danger  to  be  near. 

At  the  top  of  high- water  a  passing  floe  pushed  the 
bow  of  the  '  Alert '  on  shore,  but  so  lightly  that,  had 
it  given  us  room,  we  could  have  readily  hauled  her 
off  again.  Before  we  had  sufficient  time  to  do  so  the 
water  had  fallen  so  much  that  we  were  hard  and  fast 
aground.  As  the  water  fell  the  ship  heeled  over  to- 


'  ALERT  '    ON    SHORE. 

wards  the  sea  twenty-two  degrees.  The  forefoot  being 
exposed  as  far  aft  as  the  foremast,  I  was  rather  anxious 
lest  she  should  fall  over  altogether. 

As  the  tide  rose  we  used  suitable  pieces  of  ice  as 
rafts  to  carry  out  one  of  the  bower  anchors  and  chain 
cable,  hauling  them  astern  to  the  desired  positions  by 
a  hawser  ;  the  raft  was  then  destroyed  by  gunpowder, 
and  the  anchor  fell  to  the  bottom. 


1876  ESKIMO   SETTLEMENT.  149 

At  high-water  the  ship  having  been  lightened  of  all 
the  stores  readily  movable  was  hauled  off.  The  rise 
and  fall  of  the  tide  was  between  thirteen  and  four- 
teen feet. 

While  hunting  along  the  shores  of  the  bay  Feilden 
and  Parr  found  traces  of  a  large  Eskimo  settlement, 
and  from  the  grass-covered  mounds,  which  marked  the 
sites  of  ancient  dwellings,  several  articles  made  in  bone 
and  ivory  were  obtained. 

We  noticed  that  the  water  in  the  bay  had  a  very 
decided  green  tint,  a  colour  which  we  had  not  met 
with  farther  north. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22nd  the  ice  was  observed 
to  be  leaving  the  coast.  Accordingly,  we  proceeded 
to  the  southward,  keeping  inshore  of  the  pack.  At 
9.30  we  passed  Cape  Joseph  Good  (named  after  Lieu- 
tenant Aldrich's  sledge  captain),  with  a  strong  wind 
blowing  from  the  south-west  up  the  main  channel,  but 
the  upper  clouds  flying  from  the  westward,  with  thick 
weather  and  snow  falling. 

Passing  Eichardson  Bay  a  very  large  floe,  a  collec- 
tion of  smaller  ones  frozen  solidly  together  during  the 
last  few  days,  obliged  me  to  steam  two  or  three  miles 
offshore,  but  a  water-channel  led  us  in  again  near 
Cape  Collinson. 

At  two  o'clock,  about  the  time  of  high-water,  there 
were  many  eddy-currents,  rendering  it  difficult  to 
choose  the  best  leads  through  the  ice.  On  one  occa- 
sion, when  the  '  Alert '  was  obliged  to  retreat  from  a 
channel  closing  unexpectedly,  we  ran  foul  of  the  '  Dis- 
covery,' carrying  away  one  of  .her  boat's  davits,  but 
by  smart  and  skilful  management  the  boat  was  saved. 


150  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR   SEA.  AUGUST 

On  our  nearing  Cape  M' Clint ock  the  ice  closed  in 
with  the  north-going  tide  ;  and  as  the  wind  was  blow- 
ing strong,  with  very  thick  weather,  I  ran  for  shelter 
behind  some  stranded  icebergs  about  one  mile  north  of 
the  cape. 

With  the  flood-tide  the  ice  again  moved  from  the 
shore,  but  the  thick  weather  prevented  our  ascertaining 
whether  or  no  it  drifted  to  the  south  against  the  strong 
wind. 

Passing  Scoresby  Bay,  which  was  observed  to  be 
about  twenty  miles  deep  and  perfectly  clear  of  ice, 
the  wind  shifted,  blowing  down  the  bay,  and  enabled 
us  to  use  the  fore  and  aft  sails  for  the  first  time  since 
the  1st  September  the  previous  year.  Owing  to  the 
large  size  of  the  bay  a  considerable  sea  had  risen, 
causing  motion  in  the  ships. 

On  nearing  Cape  Norton  Shaw  the  wind  again 
came  from  the  south-west  and  blew  with  such  force 
that  occasionally,  with  the  fires  of  both  boilers  alight, 
we  could  scarcely  make  head-way  ;  however,  I  pushed 
on,  knowing  that  with  such  a  wind  we  should  meet 
with  no  ice  until  arriving  off  Cape  Frazer,  the  turning 
point  of  the  coast. 

While  passing  Cape  John  Barrow  the  squalls  off 
the  land  were  so  severe  that  a  large  book  of  drawings 
belonging  to  one  of  the  officers  of  the  '  Discovery/ 
and  containing  a  collection  of  sketches  made  during 
the  voyage,  which  had  been  inadvertently  left  on  deck, 
was  carried  overboard  by  the  wind. 

At  3  A.M.  of  the  23rd  the  storm  had  increased  so 
much  that  the  '  Alert '  had  scarcely  steerage  way ;  I 
accordingly  anchored  in  Maury  Bay  to  wait  for  the 


1876  SOUTH-WEST   GALE.  151 


le  to  subside  and  to  save  coal.  We  could  not, 
however,  have  advanced  more  than  a  mile  farther 
south  as  the  pack  was  nipping  heavily  against  Cape 
Frazer,  while  it  drifted  fast  to  the  northward  before 
the  wind.  During  the  gale  the  temperature  rose  to  42°  ; 
the  frozen  pools  of  water  on  the  surface  of  the  ice  were 
consequently  melted. 

We  remarked  at  the  time  that  in  all  probability 
the  gale  extended  over  a  large  area.  On  our  return 
to  England  we  learnt  that  it  was  on  this  day  that 
several  vessels  of  the  whaling  fleet  at  Behring's  Straits, 
1,300  miles  to  the  south-westward  of  our  position, 
were  so  greatly  damaged  by  the  ice  as  to  oblige 
them  to  be  abandoned,  causing  a  considerable  loss  of 
life. 

As  the  strong  November  gales  of  the  previous  year 
are  known  to  have  extended  for  an  equal  distance,  from 
near  Cape  Desolation  in  South  Greenland  to  Floeberg 
Beach,  and  as  each  disturbance  in  the  atmosphere  at 
the  Bay  of  Mercy  in  Banks  Island  in  1853  was  felt  at 
Eensselaer  Bay,  800  miles  distant  to  the  eastward,  I 
see  no  reason  to  doubt  that  this  gale  extended  through- 
out the  whole  region  between  Behring's  Straits  and 
Smith  Sound. 

At  8  A.M.,  the  gale  having  subsided,  and  the  wind, 
by  coming  more  off  the  land,  giving  promise  of  the  ice 
opening  off  Cape  Frazer,  we  weighed  and  proceeded 
south,  and  secured  the  ships  to  a  large  floe  near  the 
cape,  about  a  mile  from  the  shore,  ready  to  take 
advantage  of  any  change  in  the  ice.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  navigable  channel,  about  a  mile  in  breadth, 
between  the  pack  and  the  Grinnell  shore  north  of  Cape 


152  VOYAGE   TO   THE  POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

Frazer,  no  water  was  in  sight  in  any  direction ;  the  ice 
was  everywhere  closely  packed. 

A  temperature  sounding  showed  the  surface-water 
to  be  29°'0  ;  at  a  depth  of  thirty  fathoms  it  was  29°*2  ; 
from  thence  to  the  bottom  it  gradually  increased 
in  warmth  until  at  a  depth  of  forty-five  and  seventy 
fathoms  it  was  30°'0.  The  specific  gravity  of  the 
surface  water  at  a  temperature  of  60°  as  determined 
by  Dr.  Moss  was  1  02430  ;  and  that  at  a  depth  of 
seventy  fathoms  1*02547. 

Coincident  with  the  increase  of  warmth  in  the 
bottom  water,  and  the  change  in  colour  due  to  dia- 
tomacese,  walrus,  large  seal  and  little  auks  were  seen 
for  the  first  time  on  our  way  south.  A  dredge  which 
came  up  much  torn  showed  that  the  bottom  was 
extremely  rich  in  Echinoderms. 

In  endeavouring  to  obtain  some  water  from  a 
depth  of  a  hundred  fathoms  the  brass  water-bottle 
was  accidentally  sent  down  with  both  valves  closed.  As 
the  air  could  not  escape,  on  recovery,  the  bottle  was 
found  to  have  been  completely  flattened  by  the  pressure 
of  the  water. 

A  common  black  bottle  carefully  stoppered  with  a 
champagne  cork  withstood  the  pressure  of  one  hundred- 
weight to  the  square  inch  at  a  depth  of  fifty  fathoms. 
At  a  depth  of  eighty-five  fathoms,  with  a  pressure  of 
nearly  two  hundred  pounds  to  the  square  inch,  the 
water  oozed  through  the  cork  until  the  bottle  was 
half-full  of  water,  without  apparently  affecting  the 
cork. 

During  the  ebb-tide  in  the  afternoon,  although  the 


;  .!      '         •  :  '  ' 


1876  CAPE   FRAZER.  153 

ice  near  the  shore  drifted  towards  the  south,  the 
floe  to  which  we  were  secured  moved  with  the  pack 
towards  the  north,  and  not  wishing  to  be  carried  past 
Maury  Bay  I  cast  off  and  again  anchored  inshore  at 
9  P.M. 

Captain  Feilden,  Mr.  Hart,  and  I  then  landed,  and 
walked  to  the  raised  beach  at  the  extreme  of  Cape 
Frazer.  It  is  situated  250  feet  above  the  present  sea- 
level,  and  being  the  only  one  in  the  neighbourhood 
renders  the  Cape  conspicuous. 

After  erecting  a  cairn  and  depositing  a  record  of 
our  proceedings  we  returned  to  the  ship  with  a  rich 
but  extremely  heavy  burden  of  limestone  fossils. 

Cape  Frazer  being  subject  to  great  pressure  from 
the  pack  in  Kane's  Sea,  the  ice-foot  is  of  much  the 
same  character  as  the  ice-wall  in  the  Polar  Sea,  but  the 
depth  of  water  alongside  it  at  low-water  is  only  a  few 
feet ;  the  accompanying  illustration  from  an  excellent 
photograph  obtained  by  Mr.  Mitchell  when  the  water 
had  yet  to  rise  two  feet,  shows  the  cliffy  nature  of  the 
sea-face. 

On  the  24th  we  experienced  calm  weather,  with  a 
temperature  ranging  between  35°  and  39°.  The  ice 
in  the  offing  was  much  less  closely  packed,  although 
to  the  southward  of  Cape  Frazer  it  remained,  as  be- 
fore, tightly  pressed  against  the  land. 

Expecting  that  the  ebb-tide  would  carry  the 
inshore  ice  to  the  southward,  as  it  did  the  previous  day, 
I  started  at  one  P.M.  hoping  to  arrive  at  the  cape  before 
high- water,  ready  to  take  advantage  of  any  change ; 
but  none  occurred,  and  we  were  again  obliged  to 


154  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

secure  the  ships  to  a  large  floe  that  was  slowly  drifting 
to  the  northward  in  the  water-channel  which  remained 
open  on  our  side  of  the  cape. 

At  9  P.M.,  low-water,  the  ice  drifting  quickly  to 
the  northward  suddenly  opened,  and  by  leaving  a 
channel  close  to  the  shore  enabled  us  to  enter  Gould 
Bay,  and  to  approach  within  half  a  mile  of  Point 
Hayes.  There  a  floe  about  three  miles  in  diameter 
remained  nipped  against  the  land  and  prevented  our 
farther  advance.  The  ships  were  accordingly  secured 
inside  of  three  icebergs,  lying  aground  close  to  the 
shore,  off  the  mouth  of  a  large  ravine. 

The  ice-foot  in  the  neighbourhood  had  been  melted 
away  in  parts  by  the  summer  torrent,  leaving  exposed 
a  very  steep  beach,  which  was  evidently  the  abrupt 
termination  of  the  flat  deposit  of  gravel  collected  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  inside  of  the  ice  barrier,  and 
which  with  the  gradual  rise  of  the  land  will  ultimately 
become  a  raised  beach. 

Wishing  to  see  what  prospect  we  had  of  reaching 
Dobbin  Bay,  I  landed  at  3  A.M.  of  the  25th  to  walk 
round  Cape  Hayes. 

By  this  time  we  had  become  so  experienced  in 
localizing  the  positions  where  the  Eskimo  were  likely 
to  have  selected  spots  for  encampments  that  we  seldom 
failed  to  find  ancient  remains  at  the  points  designated 
by  us  beforehand.  Observing  a  very  favourable 
locality  situated  on  a  smooth  raised  beach,  about 
thirty  feet  above  the  sea-level,  formed  there  when  the 
course  of  the  river  was  different  from  what  it  is  at 
present,  Captain  Feilden  accompanied  me  on  shore. 
As  wre  expected,  the  usual  rings  of  stones  used  for 


1876  ESKIMO   ENCAMPMENT.  155 

holding  down  the  tents  and  several  interesting  relics 
were  met  with. 

Since  the  formation  of  the  encampment,  part  of  the 
bank  had  been  worn  or  washed  away,  and  with  it 
half  the  stones  of  one  house  had  been  carried  off  leaving 
the  remaining  segment  at  the  edge  of  the  bank. 

Among  the  debris  of  limestone  rock  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills  we  obtained  numerous  fossils,  one  of  them 
being  a  trilobite.  A  pair  of  falcons  flying  around  had 
evidently  nested  in  the  same  cliffs  where  we  noticed 
them  in  the  previous  year. 

Although  the  large  floe  which  prevented  our 
advancing  westward  remained  immovable  close  to 
the  shore,  I  observed  that  the  ice  in  the  offing  was 
opening,  and  that  beyond  the  cape  there  was  fairly 
navigable  water  reaching  almost  to  Cape  Louis 
Napoleon.  Accordingly  I  signalled  to  the  ships  to 
advance  and  hurried  back  to  the  boat.  Starting  at  6 
A.M.,  during  the  ebb-tide,  the  ice  was  observed  to  be 
drifting  to  the  northward,  probably  influenced  by  the 
light  southerly  wind  which  was, blowing  at  the  time. 

By  passing  on  the  outside  of  the  large  floe  we 
succeeded  in  reaching  a  group  of  icebergs  lying 
aground  about  two  miles  east  of  Cape  Napoleon-^-pro- 
bably  the  same  that  protected  us  on  the  19th  of  August 
the  previous  year. 

It  was  now  sufficiently  dark  at  midnight  to  render 
it  necessary  to  burn  candles  on  the  lower-deck.  • 

In  consequence  of  the  rise  in  temperature  to  35° 
during  the  previous  four  days  all  the  streams  in  the 
ravines  were  running  again.  In  the  afternoon  a  fog  set 
in  and  prevented  our  seeing  what  the  ice  was  doing 


156  VOYAGE   TO   THE  POLAR  SEA.  AUGUST 

While  on  shore  I  noticed  a  dovekie  fly  down  from  the 
top  of  the  cliffs,  which  rose  about  800  feet  above  the 
sea ;  they  evidently  nest  at  that  altitude.  Captain 
Feilden  had  long  attributed  a  peculiar  whizzing  sound, 
which  we  occasionally  heard  overhead  when  passing 
under  the  shore  cliffs,  to  the  dovekies  flying  down  to 
the  water  ;  but  though  they  descended  with  extreme 
rapidity,  it  was  difficult  to  connect  the  loud  rushing 
sound  of  wind  with  the  flight  of  such  a  small  bird. 
After  passing  Maury  Bay  we  noticed  dovekies  in  con- 
siderable numbers  in  the  pools  of  water  near  the  ice- 
foot, where  they  found  apparently  an  ample  Supply  of 
food. 

On  the  26th  the  -weather  remained  very  foggy. 
Taking  advantage  of  our  forced  delay  a  rich  haul  was 
made  with  the  trawl  in  fifty  fathoms,  giving  us  several 
fishes,  echinoderms,  sponges,  and  mollusca. 

At  8  P.M.  the  ice  permitted  us  to  proceed  one 
and-a-half  miles.  Arriving  at  the  end  of  the  water- 
channel  the  two  ships  were  secured  to  a  small  iceberg 
with  a  piece 'of  ice  lashed  between  them  to  keep  them 
from  fouling  each  other. 

In  my  Journal  I  remark  :— 

'  Although  there  is  no  opening  in  the  ice  towards 
the  south-west,  to  the  eastward,  where  we  have  lately 
been  able  to  advance  only  a  mile  or  two  at  a  time, 
there  is  an  open  channel  one  or  two  miles  broad.  How 
far  it  extends  beyond  Cape  Hayes  it  is  of  course  impos- 
sible for  us  to  determine. 

'  During  this  calm  weather  I  can  make  little  or 
nothing  out  of  the  movements  of  the  ice  at  certain 
times  of  tide.  It  appears  to  follow  no  fixed  laws  here, 


1876  PRINCE  IMPERIAL  ISLAND.  157 

but  if  it  begins  to  move  at  the  commencement  of  the 
tide,  it  is  pretty  sure  to  continue  to  drift  in  the  same 
direction  as  long  as  the  tide  lasts. 

'  Since  leaving  Discovery  Bay  we  have  not  once 
observed  the  decided  southerly  drift  which  we  noticed 
last  year ;  had  we  not  known  of  the  undoubted 
existence  of  the  current  we  should  not  have  discovered 
it  by  the  ice  motion  lately.' 

The  27th  was  calm  with  foggy  weather  and  snow 
falling,  with  the  temperature  at  32°.  On  the  same  day 
the  '  Pandora  '  at  Cape  Alexander  experienced  a  south- 
west gale  which  did  not  reach  our  position. 

In  the  afternoon  the  ice  opened  with  the  flood- 
tide  and  enabled  us,  after  much  trouble  and  by  passing 
closer  to  the  ice-foot  than  was  altogether  prudent,  to 
enter  Dobbin  Bay  ;  but  there,  after  securing  the  ships 
to  a  floe,  we  were  quickly  surrounded  by  the  pack. 

During  the  night  and  the  following  day  we  were 
drifted  helplessly  about  the  bay  with  the  tidal  current. 
Early  on  the  morning  of  the  29th,  as  the  ice  set  out 
with  the  ebb-tide,  the  'Discovery'  was  carried  to 
within  a  hundred  yards  of  Cape  Hilgard,  and  by 
the  rotatory  motion  of  the  floe  left  without  any  ice 
between  her  and  the  shore ;  for  a  time  her  ex- 
posed condition  caused  me  much  anxiety. 

During  the  last  of  the  flood-tide  another  move- 
ment of  the  ice  enabled  us  to  escape  and  to  reach  a 
place  of  comparative  safety  alongside  a  floe  hemmed 
in  between  Prince  Imperial  Island  and  the  mainland ; 
everyone  exceedingly  glad  to  get  out  of  the  pack  and 
away  from  the  numerous  straggling  icebergs. 

The  water-bottle  having  been  repaired,  Dr.  Moss 


158  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  AUGUST 

obtained  some  samples  from  different  depths.  The 
following  results  of  his  observations  denote  that*  with 
the  increase  in  temperature  of  the  water  below  thirty 
fathoms  the  density  also  increases  to  above  that  of  the 
Polar  water,  which  numerous  observations  made 
during  the  winter  showed  to  be  1*02245.  Hence  we 
may  conclude  that  the  bottom  water  is  derived  from  the 
Atlantic  Ocean. 

Specific  gravity  at  60°  Fahr. 
Depth  Temperature  Standard  water  at  39°2  =  unity 

11  fathoms  30°-2  1-02178 

.20       „  29°-3  1-02462 

40       „  29°-8  1-02507 

56       „  30°-0  1-02506 

115       „  30°-8  1-02567 

Shortly  after  we  reached  Prince  Imperial  Island, 
a  northerly  wind  cleared  away  the  mist  from  the  hills 
and  lowered  the  temperature  to  30°. 

The  recent  snow-fall,  which  measured  about  five 
inches,  had  changed  the  whole  aspect  of  the  land  and 
re-clothed  the  richly  tinted  stratified  mountains  with 
their  winter's  garb,  from  which  they  had  only  been  free 
for  a  short  seven  weeks. 

After  this  date  the  snow  only  melted  slightly  in 
the  low-lying  valleys,  and  the  young  ice  formed  con- 
tinually on  any  quiet  water. 

The  sportsmen  shot  six  hares,  a  dozen  ptarmigan, 
and  a  raven. 

The  30th  was  a  beautifully  clear  day  with  a  tem- 
perature of  30°,  falling  in  the  evening  to  20°.  During 
the  forenoon  Commander  Markham  and  I  landed  on 


1870  YOUNG   ICE.  159 

Prince  Imperial  Island,  and  afterwards  on  the  main- 
land to  observe  the  ice. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  flood-tide  a  large  water- 
pool  formed  near  Cape  Hawks,  and  a  fairly  navigable 
passage  appeared  to  exist  amongst  the  intermediate 
ice.  Making  a  signal  to  the  ships  to  get  up  steam  we 
hastened  on  board. 

The  young  ice  at  this  time  was  so  thick  and  tough 
that  we  had  great  difficulty  in  breaking  a  passage-way 
through  it  in  the  dingy  ;  and  after  starting  in  the  ships 
it  was  found  necessary  to  use  both  boilers  and  to  put 
the  engines  on  full  speed  before  we  could  force  them 
through  what  would  otherwise  have  been  considered 
fairly  open  ice. 

Whenever  we  met  with  a  quantity  of  small  ice  col- 
lected between  large  floes,  so  long  as  the  pack  was  not 
closing,  we  had  long  ceased  to  wait  for  the  formation 
of  a  decided  water-channel,  as  with  full  steam-power  we 
could  usually  force  a  passage  for  the  ships. 

But  now  with  the  young  ice  forming  and  the  snow 
tending  to  toughen  it,  we  found  that  when  one  piece 
of  old  ice  was  struck,  although  it  was  itself  forced  out 
of  our  way,  it  failed  to  propel  the  pieces  behind  it. 
Consequently,  after  struggling  along  for  about  three 
miles  at  a  very  large  expenditure  of  coal,  I  was  obliged 
to  secure  the  ships  to  a  large  floe  amongst  a  quantity 
of  debris  ice  which  had  become  cemented  together  with 
the  frost. 

This  was  our  first  experience  during  the  season  of 
young  ice  forming  thick  enough  to  be  troublesome  ;  the 
previous  summer  it  was  almost  as  thick  a  fortnight 
earlier  in  the  season.  After  this  date  it  was  always 


160  VOYAGE  TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.        SEPTEMBER 

necessary  to  guard  against  the  ships  becoming  thus 
frozen  in  and  unable  to  move  should  the  ice  open. 

The  floe  to  which  we  were  secured,  during  this 
and  the  following  day,  was  situated  in  the  main 
channel  between  the  head  of  Dobbin  Bay  and  Wash- 
ington Irving  Island,  and  drifted  with  the  pack  to 
the  north  or  south  according  to  the  tide ;  no  water- 
channel  ever  opening  near  us,  although  there  were  a 
few  disconnected  pools  in  sight  in  the  offing. 

On  the  1st  of  September  towards  the  end  of  the 
flood-tide,  during  calm  weather,  we  were  again  able  to 
advance,  and  succeeded  in  reaching  some  grounded 
icebergs  near  Cape  Hawks — probably  the  same  which 
were  there  the  previous  year. 

I  fully  expected  that  with  the  ebb-tide  the  ice 
would  be  carried  out  of  the  channel  between  Washing- 
ton Irving  Island  and  the  main,  but  it  did  not  move 
sufficiently  to  enable  us  to  proceed ;  indeed,  we  had 
great  difficulty  in  communicating  with  the  shore,  only 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  by  means  of  a  boat,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  closeness  of  the  ice.  Whenever  able  to 
do  so  we  gradually  embarked  the  depot  of  provisions 
left  there  last  year ;  but  a  boat  and  some  biscuit  still 
remain.  If  visited  during  the  summer  these  will  be 
found  on  the  northern  shore  of  a  small  bay  a  mile  and-a- 
half  distantJProm  Cape  Hawks  and  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  east  point  of  the  bay.  During  the 
winter  when  covered  by  snow  it  would  be  very  difficult 
for  a  stranger  to  find  the  locality — unless,  indeed,  the 
pole  marking  it  remains  up. 

The  mean  height  of  the  tabular  iceberg  alongside 
which  the  ships  were  secured  was  between  twenty-four 


1876  DIMENSIONS  OF  AN  ICEBERG.  161 

and  twenty-six  feet,  lying  aground  in  190  feet  water  ; 
it  had  probably  been  raised  a  foot  or  two  when  forced 
on  shore,  and  would  therefore  have  about  one-ninth  of 
its  mass  exposed  when  afloat. 

During  the  afternoon  the  temperature  rose  to  35°, 
and  misty  weather  with  light  rain  set  in. 

On  the  2nd  a  channel  opened  with  the  ebb-tide  and 
enabled  us  to  reach  to  within  half  a  mile  of  Cape  Hawks, 
but  there  a  newly-formed  floe,  of  debris  ice  frozen 
together,  prevented  our  attaining  the  shelter  formed 
by  three  icebergs  lying  aground  a  mile  distant  outside 
of  the  cape.  Captain  Stephenson,  in  the  '  Discovery,' 
having  steam  up  in  both  boilers,  with  much  trouble 
and  by  rolling  the  ship,  broke  his  way  through  for  a 
distance  of  about  a  hundred  yards  into  the  ice,  and 
probably  could  have  cut  completely  through  the  floe  ; 
but  the  ice  to  the  westward  giving  no  promise  of 
opening,  and  a  thick  snow-storm  having  set  in,  we 
returned  to  our  place  of  shelter  off  the  depot,  having 
expended  much  coal  to  little  purpose. 

As  we  now  had  only  a  few  tons  of  steaming  coal 
left,  and  after  it  was  gone  would  have  to  use  the  coal 
necessary  for  warming  the  ship  during  the  coming 
winter,  its  expenditure  had  become  a  very  serious 
matter.  I  need  scarcely  add  that  no  ashes  were 
ever  thrown  overboard. 

Again  early  on  the  morning  of  the  3rd  the 
movements  in  the  ice  induced  me  to  advance,  but 
again  were  we  obliged  to  retreat. 

During  the  forenoon  I  landed  on  Washington  Irving 
Island,  and  the  weather  being  very  clear,  obtained  a 
fine  view. 

VOL.    II.  M 


162  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR   SEA.         SEPTEMBER 

On  visiting  the  cairn  erected  the  previous  year  our 
papers  were  found  to  have  been  untouched  :  so  re- 
dating  them,  and  adding  a  further  notice  of  our 
movements,  the  cylinders  were  replaced. 

I  again  examined  the  two  ancient  lichen-covered 
cairns,  but  could  find  no  record  of  who  had  built  them  : 
they  were  probably  erected  by  some  enterprising  and 
successful  navigator  who,  if  he  ever  returned  home, 
has  not  published  an  account  of  his  discoveries. 

The  snow  had  collected  on  the  ground  to  a  depth 
of  nine  inches,  but  the  fall  had  evidently  been  local, 
for  near  Prince  Imperial  Island,  on  the  opposite  shore 
of  the  bay,  the  lowlands  were  bare. 

Although  I  could  see  the  horizon  near  Cape  Albert, 
thirty  miles  distant,  no  cleared  water  was  visible 
anywhere  towards  the  south  :  but  in  the  direction  of 
Cape  Hayes  the  water-channel,  through  which  we  had 
advanced  with  so  much  trouble,  had  opened  and  now 
presented  a  clear  passage  more  than  a  mile  wide  and 
extending  to  within  three  or  four  miles  of  our  position. 

I  remained  at  the  summit  of  the  island  watching 
the  ice  until  noon,  when  with  the  commencement  of 
the  ebb-tide,  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  pack 
to  the  westward  of  Cape  Hawks  in  motion.  The  ships 
were  immediately  got  under  weigh.  Arriving  off  the 
cape  we  found  that  the  newly-formed  floe,  which  had 
stopped  us  twice  before,  had  become  fixed  between  the 
grounded  icebergs  and  the  land,  and  cut  us  off  from 
a  navigable  water-channel  beyond.  After  an  hour's 
ramming  at  the  young  ice  with  full  steam  up  and  by 
rolling  the  ships,  we  succeeded  in  forcing  a  passage 
through  it,  and  in  rounding  Cape  Hawks,  much  to  the 


1876 


PASS   CAPE   HAWKS. 


163 


rejoicing  of  all ;  for 
the  nearer  we  ap- 
proached Hayes 
Sound  the  better 
would  the  ships  be 
placed  for  exploring 
that  unknown  neigh- 
bourhood, should  we 
have  failed  in  escap- 
ing out  of  Smith 
Sound. 

After  passing  the 
cape  we  found  the 
ice  near  the  land 
fairly  navigable ;  it 
obliged  us,  however, 
to  make  a  very  tor- 
tuous course  and  to 
frequently  pass  within 
fifty  yards  of  the  ice- 
foot ;  fortunately  we 
always  found  deep 
water,  and  we  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching 
the  east  side  of  All- 
man  Bay  before  the 
ebb-tide  was  finished. 
The  ice  in  the  offing, 
consisting  of  very 
heavy  floes,  always 
remained  closely 
packed. 


M   2 


164  VOYAGE   TO   THE  POLAR  SEA.         SEPTEMBER 

The  ice  in  Allman  Bay  consisted  of  perfectly  smooth 
floes,  formed  during  the  previous  winter,  recently 
cemented  together  with  newly  frozen  ice  from  one 
to  three  inches  thick,  through  which  we  found  great 
difficulty  in  forcing  a  passage,  having  to  continually 
roll  the  ship  for  the  purpose.  The  headmost  vessel 
having  once  formed  a  channel,  the  other  followed 
through  the  cleanly  cut  canal  with  very  little  expendi- 
ture of  coal. 

As  we  entered  the  bay  the  temperature  of  the 
surface  water  rose  to  32°.  This  being  very  unusual,  a 
sample  of  it  was  tested  and  found  to  be  almost  fresh 
enough  to  drink,  and  this  again  accounted  for  the 
unusual  thickness  of  the  newly  frozen  ice. 

Dr.  Moss  on  analyzing  the  water  obtained  the  fol- 
lowing result.  That  at  fifty-six  fathoms  was  obtained 
a  few  days  afterwards  in  Princess  Marie  Bay  : — 


Depth 

Surface    . 

2  fathoms 

3  „  . 
10     „ 

26     „ 
56     „ 

The  fresh  water  at  the  surface  in  Allman  Bay  was 
evidently  derived  from  the  large  John  Evans  Glacier 
at  its  head,  named  after  the  President  of  the  Geological 
Society. 

The  glacier,  running  in  a  south-east  direction,  ends 


Temperature 

31°-8 

Specific  Gravity  at 
60°  Fahr. 
Standard  Water  at 
39°-2=  unity 

1-00217 

30°-0 

1-01743 

29°-7 

1-02388 

29°-2 

not  obtained 

29°-2 
30°-0 

1-02506 

1876  GLACIERS— ICEBERGS.  165 

at  a  distance  of  about  three  miles  from  the  sea,  its 
front  being  at  least  five  miles  across.  It  is  there 
joined  by  a  smaller  glacier  running  down  a  parallel 
valley. 

The  melting  of  all  the  inferior  glaciers  north  of 
Smith  Sound  before  they  reach  the  sea  is  very  re- 
markable, and  must  be  due  to  the  vast  power  of  the 
ever  present  sun  during  the  summer  being  in  excess  of 
the  small  amount  of  precipitation  during  the  winter. 

Were  they  to  reach  the  sea,  meeting  there  with 
water  which  is  never,  even  during  the  summer,  suffi- 
ciently warm  to  melt  fresh- water  ice,  they  would  force 
their  way  onward  along  the  ground  until  their  sea-face 
or  front  attained  its  least  elevation,  and  icebergs  were 
broken  off  by  rising  through  excess  of  buoyancy.  This 
may  account  for  the  extreme  lowness  of  the  face  of 
the  Petermann  Glacier,  which  attains  a  mean  height  of 
only  twenty-five  feet  above  the  water-level,  and  also 
for  the  great  number  of  crevasses  near  its  front,  as 
described  by  Lieutenant  Fulford  and  Dr.  Coppinger.1 

Dr.  Kane,  although  he  estimates  the  height  of  the 
surface  of  the  Humboldt  Glacier  as  '  about  three  hun- 
dred feet,'  remarks  :  '  So  far  from  falling  into  the  sea, 
broken  by  its  weight  from  the  parent  glacier,  it  (the 
iceberg)  rises  from  the  sea.'  But  as  the  icebergs  in 
Smith  Sound  are  never  more  than  about  150  feet  in 
height  above  water  when  afloat,  this  estimate  of  the 
height  of  the  sea-face  of  the  glacier  is  probably  that  of 
its  south  side  near  the  shore  where  Dr.  Kane  and 
others  visited  it,  arid  not  of  the  sea-face  itself  at  a 
distance  from  the  side. 

1  See  Appendix. 


166  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.          SEPTEMBER 

In  more  temperate  latitudes,  south  of  Cape  Sabine, 
where  the  temperature  of  the  water  is  higher  and 
during  the  summer  is  above  the  melting  point  of  fresh- 
water ice,  the  foot  of  the  glacier  becomes  readily 
melted,  leaving  an  unsupported  mass  of  ice,  from 
which  pieces  break  off,  falling  down  into  the  sea  as 
icebergs  and  floating  at  a  considerably  less  altitude 
than  the  top  of  the  parent  glacier.  We  observed 
that  such  was  the  case  with  the  glaciers  on  the  shores 
of  Ellesmere  Land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cape 
Isabella,  and  with  those  on  the  Greenland  shores  to 
the  north  of  Cape  York. 

The  question  whether  the  icebergs  in  Melville  Bay 
and  other  protected  positions  to  the  southward,  where 
the  flow  of  the  warm  current  is  not  felt  to  so  great  an 
extent,  fall  or  rise  when  they  become  detached  from 
the  glaciers,  will  depend  on  the  temperature  of  the 
sea-water  in  the  neighbourhood  being  above  or  below 
32°. 

On  the  4th  the  upper  clouds  were  coming  fast 
from  the  southward  with  misty  weather  arid  a  tem- 
perature at  35°. 

Deeming  it  desirable  to  gain  as  weatherly  a  position 
as  possible,  in  order  to  take  advantage  of  any  opening 
which  might  occur  with  the  expected  westerly  wind,  we 
forced  our  way  across  Allman  Bay,  the  '  Discovery ' 
leading  and  cutting  a  clear  channel  through  the 
blackest  and  thinnest  part  of  the  young  ice,  which  was 
from  one  to  three  inches  in  thickness.  On  securing  the 
ships  to  a  floe  about  one  mile  east  of  Cape  D'Urville, 
as  there  appeared  no  sign  of  any  change  in  the 
weather,  the  steaming  fires  were  put  out. 


1876  INVALIDS.  167 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  my  journal  of 
the  5th  :- 

'  Another  wet  misty  day,  with  light  variable  airs  ; 
upper  clouds  from  the  southward,  with  a  temperature 
of  35°. 

'  All  our  invalids  are  now  so  far  recovered  that 
they  are  doing  duty  on  deck,  merely  being  excused 
from  going  aloft  or  working  in  the  boats  ;  but  as  I 
must  expect  a  recurrence  of  the  disease  to  manifest 
itself  during  the  coming  winter,  the  quickly-advancing 
season  makes  me  rather  anxious  lest  we  fail  to  escape 
from  the  ice. 

'  Now  that  we  have  attained  a  position  from  whence 
Hayes  Sound  can  be  explored,  and  the  interesting 
question  regarding  its  being  a  channel  leading  to  a 
western  sea  set  at  rest,  a  large  number  of  officers  and 
men  would  be  glad  if  our  retreat  to  the  south  were  cut 
off,  and  there  are  very  few  who,  so  long  as  the  two 
ships  passed  the  winter  near  each  other,  would  not 
accept  the  inevitable  with  complacency.  However,  I 
cannot  think  that-the  winds  can  be  much  longer  de- 
layed ;  and  if  they  don't  bring  with  them  too  low  a 
temperature  we  shall  free  ourselves  somehow  or  other. 

'  The  ice  in  the  bay  drifts  in  and  out  with  the  tide, 
moving  a  distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

'  It  is  instructive  to  observe  how  useless  our  sails 
have  been  to  us,  while  navigating  to  the  north  of. 
Smith  Sound,  both  last  year  and  this.  On  our  passage 
south  the  square  sails  have  never  once  been  set ;  we 
have  always  had  to  force  our  way  along  through 
narrow  openings  in  the  pack  caused  by  calms  or  contrary 
winds.' 


168  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR  SEA.         SEPTEMBER 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  the  weather  cleared  up 
with  light  airs  from  the  north,  which,  combined  with 
the  release  of  the  -pressure  from  the  southward,  made 
a  decided  difference  in  the  ice,  and  gave  us  every 
prospect  of  being  able  to  advance  shortly.  During 
the  flood-tide  I  landed  with  Markham  and  Feilden, 
and  walked  about  three  miles  alongshore  to  the  west- 
ward until  we  could  see  Norman  Lockyer  Island,  then 
about  four  miles  distant  from  us.  Capes  Victoria  and 
Albert,  seen  for  the  first  time  sharply  defined  against 
the  clear  sky,  and  only  twenty  miles  distant  from  us, 
created  in  everyone  a  feeling  of  being  within  easy 
and  certain  reach  of  home,  whatever  might  occur. 

All  the  coast  cliffs  west  of  Cape  Hawks  are  mag- 
nificent rampart-like  headlands  from  900  to  1,000  feet 
high,  presenting  nearly  a  straight  line  facing  the  sea — 
the  continuity  of  the  front  being  broken  only  by  the 
large  ravines  and  the  glacier-cut  bays.  They  are 
composed  of  a  yellowish-pink  conglomerate  of  water- 
worn  pebbles,  and  are  perfectly  inaccessible  except  by 
ascending  the  valleys  far  inland. 

Three  or  four  broods  of  eider-ducks,  still  unable  to 
fly,  were  swimming  in  a  pool  near  the  ice-foot.  Owing 
to  the  warmer  temperature  during  the  few  previous  days 
there  was  a  free  run  of  water  in  the  ravines. 

At  this  season,  which  may  be  considered  to  have 
been  the  end  of  the  summer  thaw,  it  was  noticeable 
that — while  the  surface  of  the  ice-foot  bordering  the 
shore  was,  as  before  stated,  level  with  the  top  of  high- 
water — at  its  inner  edge  nearest  the  land  a  deep  and 
broad  gutterway  had,  partly  by  reflected  heat  from  the 
hillside  and  partly  by  the  run  of  the  freshwater  off 


1876  ICE-FOOT.  169 

the  land,  become  formed  alongshore.  When  it  was 
nearly  high-water,  this  gutterway  becoming  filled  by 
the  tide,  cut  off  the  ice-foot  from  the  land. 

The  absence  of  ice  piled  up  above  the  ice-foot  to 
the  westward  of  Cape  Hayes  was  very  remarkable. 
Nowhere  did  we  find  it  forced  up  by  recent  pressure 
higher  than  three  or  four  feet.  This  was  totally  differ- 
ent from  our  experience  of  the  preceding  season,  when, 
at  all  the  prominent  points,  we  met  with  ice  piled  up 
to  a  height  of  at  least  twenty  feet.  Its  absence  would 
either  denote  a  remarkably  calm  season,  without  any 
winds  blowing  towards  the  shore,  or  indicate  that  the 
pack  consisted  of  heavy  floes,  which  would  become 
stranded  before  they  could  reach  the  ice-foot. 

At  2  P.M.  of  the  6th  the  ice  commenced  setting  out 
of  Allman  Bay  with  the  ebb-tide  ;  a  channel  near  the 
land  also  opening  at  the  same  time.  Steam  was  ac- 
cordingly raised,  and  after  a  little  trouble  in  getting 
clear  of  the  young  ice,  which  was  now  rather  alarm- 
ingly thick,  we  reached  Cape  Prescott ;  but  there  we 
were  compelled  to  make  fast,  while  the  flood-tide  was 
running,  to  some  bergs  lying  aground  in  twenty-nine 
fathoms,  a  mile  and-a-half  from  the  shore. 

During  the  night  and  on  the  7th  the  pack  near 
Norman  Lockyer  Island  continued  to  open  during  both 
the  flood  and  the  ebb  tides  ;  but  some  young  ice  lying 
between  the  ships  and  the  Island,  which  would  have 
obliged  us  to  use  much  coal  in  forcing  our  way  through 
it,  induced  me  to  wait  until  a  decided  water-channel 
presented  itself.  By  noon  the  ice  had  all  cleared 
away  near  the  land,  and  we  reached  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Walrus  Shoal,  and  from  thence  discovered 


170  VOYAGE   TO  THE   POLAR   SEA.         SEPTEMBER 

navigable  water  extending  halfway  across  Princess 
Marie  Bay. 

This  position  received  its  •  name  from  being  the 
most  northern  locality  where  walrus  were  fallen  in 
with. 

As  soon  as  the  ships  were  secured,  Captain  Stephen- 
son  and  I,  accompanied  by  Commander  Markham, 
ascended  Norman  Lockyer  Island  to  inspect  the  ice. 

The  weather  was  remarkably  clear,  and  besides 
finding  navigable  water  extending  four  or  five  miles 
from  the  island,  we  had  the  cheering  prospect  of 
seeing  a  large  expanse  of  water  about  fifteen  miles 
distant  towards  the  south-east  in  about  the  same 
position  as  where  we  met  with  the  southern  edge  of  the 
pack  on  our  way  north  the  previous  year,  and  having 
every  appearance  of  being  connected  with  the  water 
at  the  entrance  of  Smith  Sound.  The  prospect  was  so 
favourable  that  I  could  not  hesitate  about  advancing. 
Nevertheless,  at  so  late  a  period  of  the  season,  when 
the  young  ice  was  steadily  increasing  in  thickness  day 
and  night,  we  knew  that  if  deceived  in  the  weather, 
or  if  one  false  step  were  made,  we  should  be  beset  in 
the  drifting  pack  during  the  coming  winter,  without 
sufficient  coal  for  warming  the  ships  and  none  for 
steaming  purposes  the  following  year. 

After  leaving  a  notice  of  our  movements  on  the 
summit  of  the  island,  we  bade  good-bye  to  the  Grinnell 
shores,  and  with  the  exception  of  one  nip,  about  two 
hundred  yards  in  length,  where  two  floes  had  become 
cemented  together  by  the  frost,  and  which  occupied 
the  whole  of  both  crews,  assisted  by  the  '  Discovery  ' 
ramming,  an  hour  before  it  was  cleared,  we  advanced 


1876  PRINCESS    MARIE   BAY.  171 

to  within  four  miles  of  Cape  Victoria.  There  three 
large  Polar  floes,  which  had  become  locked  in  by  a 
chain  of  icebergs  aground  near  the  cape,  stopped  us. 
The  open  water  was  now  in  sight  from  the  mast-head, 
but  the  temperature  had  fallen  to  23°. 

During  the  night  and  the  following  day  the  pack 
drifted  to  the  eastward  and  westward  with  the  tides, 
moving  with  great  regularity. 

It  was  most  fortunate  for  us  that  we  had  reached 
the  large  floes,  as  with  each  movement  water-pools 
formed  at  their  edges  and  permitted  us  to  move  the  ships 
ahead  a  few  yards  or  more  at  a  time,  always  on  the 
watch  not  to  be  nipped  when  passing  round  a  point, 
and  not  to  become  frozen-in  by  the  quickly- 
forming  young  ice  when  secured  in  an  indentation  in 
the  floes.  By  taking  every  advantage  that  offered,  we 
reached  to  within  a  mile  of  the  icebergs  locking  in 
the  heavy  floes  on  the  evening  of  the  8th.  The  tem- 
perature was  20°  ;  but  the  frost  rather  assisted  us  than 
otherwise  by  cementing  all  the  debris  ice  together ; 
consequently,  whenever  a  movement  occurred,  instead 
of  the  debris  dispersing  itself  in  the  free  water-space 
with  the  release  of  pressure,  it  was  held  in  bondage, 
and  left  us  a  clear  water-channel. 

The  following  is  extracted  from  my  journal : — 

'  When  I  consider  the  large  quantity  of  ice  we  find 
in  the  opening  between  Bache  Island  and  Grinnell- 
Land,  and  the  slow-running  tidal  currents,  I  cannot 
think  it  to  be  anything  but  a  bay. 

'  Copes  Bay  is  a  very  deep  fiord  extending  to  the 
north-west.  Six  or  seven  miles  farther  west  is  a  broad 
opening  having  three  bays  running  north-west,  west, 


172  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.         SEPTEMBER 

and  south-west ;  but  it  is  impossible  to  say  that  Capes 
Stevens  and  Baker  are  not  islands/ 

At  2  A.M.  of  the  9th  the  pack  commenced  setting 
out  of  the  bay  with  the  ebb-tide.  Observing  that  the 
point  of  the  large  floe  to  which  we  were  attached 
would  shortly  be  carried  against  the  icebergs,  and  that 
then  a  channel  would  be  opened  for  a  short  time, 
steam  was  kept  ready  ;  and  as  the  drift  of  the  floe  was 
checked  on  its  coming  into  collision  with  the  bergs,  the 
outer  ice,  borne  onward  by  the  current,  opened  for  a 
moment  a  clear  channel,  and  permitted  us  to  escape 
from  the  pack. 

After  this  there  was  only  one  serious  obstacle  to 
our  advance.  Owing  to  the  low  temperature  and  calm 
weather  the  newly-frozen  ice  was  never  less  than  two 
inches  in  thickness,  and  obliged  us  to  use  full  steam. 
In  the  thickest  places  the  ships  were  frequently  stopped 
altogether,  and  frequently  had  to  back  out  through 
the  channel  they  had  formed  and  circle  round  the 
obstruction.  After  passing  Cape  Albert  the  pieces  of 
old  floes  became  fewer,  and  we  gradually  lost  sight 
of  the  pack  to  the  eastward,  although  large  fields 
of  young  ice  were  met  with  until  we  neared  Cape 
Sabine,  but  there  we  bade  farewell  to  the  ice  for  good. 

As  an  instance  of  the  great  changes  that  take 
place  in  the  pack,  and  how  uncertain  its  navigation  is, 
it  is  noticeable  that  on  the  28th  of  August  Sir  Allen 
Young  found  the  ice  completely  blocking  up  Smith's 
Sound,  and  extending  from  shore  to  shore  eight  miles 
south  of  Cape  Isabella.  Ten  days  afterwards  we 
entered  a  navigable  sea  extending  to  latitude  79°  10'. 
Thus  a  breadth  of  sixty  miles  of  ice  had  drifted  away 


1876 


TVEYPRECHT  ISLANDS. 


173 


in  the  intermediate 
time. 

Considering  the 
very  small  quantity 
of  coal  there  was  now 
left  on  board  either 
ship,  it  was  with  a 
great  feeling  of  relief 
that  I  found  myself 
in  blue  water  once 
more  ;  and  I  trust 
that  I  was  not  un- 
thankful to  God  for 
His  merciful  care  of 
us  and  for  the  great 
success  that  had  at- 
tended us  in  the  truly 
perilous  navigation 
north  of  Smith  Sound. 

At  the  head  of  Bu- 
chanan Strait,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the 
Weyprecht  Islands, 
there  was  a  large 
quantity  of'  ice,  but 
we  passed  at  too  great 
a  distance  from  it  to 
determine  whether  it 
were  navigable  or  not. 
Payer  Harbour  was 
perfectly  clear,  one 
large  iceberg  excepted. 


174  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.         SEPTEMBER 

Having  left  a  notice  of  our  proceedings  at  Norman 
Lockyer  Island,  and  wishing  to  take  full  advantage  of 
the  calm  weather,  to  ensure  visiting  the  more  important 
station  on  Cape  Isabella,  I  passed  Brevoort  Island 
without  stopping,  consequently  the  provisions  left  there 
have  not  been  touched. 

As  we  passed  the  Lefferts,  Alfred  Newton,  and 
Wyville  Thomson  Glaciers,  all  of  which  discharge  ice- 
bergs, the  broken- off  pieces  were  observed  to  be  floating 
at  less  than  half  the  height  of  the  glacier  cliff  above 
the  water. 

At  10  P.M.  we  arrived  at  Cape  Isabella,  and  on 
Commander  Markham  climbing  up  to  the  depot  he 
found  the  package  of  letters  and  newspapers  left  there 
by  Sir  Allen  Young  a  few  weeks  previously ;  we  gathered 
from  them  that  a  duplicate  packet  had  been  carried  on 
to  Cape  Sabine. 

It  was  now  a  consideration  whether  I  should  return 
to  Cape  Sabine  or  not ;  but  as  it  was  quite  certain  that 
the '  Pandora '  had  not  advanced  north  of  Hayes  Sound, 
and  was  not  herself  in  want  of  assistance,  I  decided  to 
be  content  with  the  letters  which  we  had  received, 
and  to  push  on  for  Disco  while  the  weather  remained 
favourable. 

Owing  to  the  thick  coating  of  snow  on  the  ground, 
we  failed  to  find  the  notice  Sir  Allen  Young  had 
buried  twenty  feet  magnetic  north  of  our  cairn,  which 
would  have  informed  me  that  he  had  considerately 
landed  the  principal  mail  at  Littleton  Island.  To  this 
oversight  on  our  part  the  loss  of  the  principal  mail  was 
due. 

Had  it  not  been  so  late  in  the  season,  with  so  much 


1870  RECEIVE   NEWS   FROM   HOME.  175 

young  ice  formed,  or  had  we  had  coal  to  spare,  I 
would  certainly  have  visited  Littleton  Island  and 
Port  Foulke. 

The  officers  and  men  of  the  '  Alert '  and  4  Dis- 
covery '  can  scarcely  feel  sufficiently  grateful  to  Sir 
Allen  Young  and  his  companions  for  their  determined 
and  persevering  efforts  to  open  communication  with 
them  during  two  seasons.  Sacrificing  so  great  a  part 
of  the  short  navigable  season  of  1875  and  paying 
two  visits  to  the  Gary  Islands  on  our  account  alone, 
when  Sir  Allen's  purpose  was  to  explore  in  a  totally 
different  direction,  was  stretching  a  friendly  action  to 
the  utmost.  Such  consideration  can  only  be  fully 
appreciated  by  persons  situated  as  we  were. 

It  was  past  ten  in  the  evening  when  Markham  and 
Feilden  returned  from  the  shore  of  Cape  Isabella. 
When  the  boat  came  alongside,  and  we  learnt  that 
they  had  found  a  mail,  the  feelings  of  all  on  board 
are  not  to  be  easily  described.  A  year  and  more  with- 
out hearing  from  home  or  friends,  or  the  outer 
world,  is  a  long  gap  in  our  short  lives.  What  changes 
may  have  occurred  in  that  interval  I  All  of  us 
seemed  to  be  impressed  with  this  thought,  and  after 
the  first  exclamations  of  pleasure  and  surprise  not  a 
word  was  spoken  until  the  mail-bags  were  sorted  and 
the  lucky  ones  received  their  budgets  of  news  ;  along 
with  the  mail  was  a  large  number  of  newspapers 
which  to  some  extent  consoled  those  who  were  not  the 
fortunate  recipients  of  letters. 

After  our  long  sojourn  within  the  Polar  ice  it  was 
a  strange  transition  to  feel  the  ship  rise  and  fall  once 
more  on  the  '  north  water '  of  Baffin's  Bay,  and  to  look 


176  VOYAGE  TO  THE   POLAR   SEA.         SEPTEMBER 

astern  and  see  Cape  Isabella,  one  of  the  massive  portals 
to  Smith  Sound,  fading  away  in  an  obscurity  of  snow 
and  midnight  darkness;  whilst  an  ice-blink  stretch- 
ing across  the  northern  horizon  reminded  us  forcibly 
of  the  perils,  dangers,  and  anxieties  that  we  had  con- 
tended against  for  so  many  months. 

In  comparing  the  voyage  of  the  '  Polaris,'  and 
that  of  the  '  Alert '  and  '  Discovery/  it  is  evident  that 
the  navigation  of  the  ice  which  is  to  be  met  with  every 
year  in  Kane  Sea  is  entirely  dependent  on  the  westerly 
winds.  Both  in  1875  and  1876  we  met  navigable 
water  off  Cape  Victoria  in  latitude  79°  12',  with  only 
a  narrow  pack  fifteen  miles  in  breadth  between  it  and 
Grinnell  Land,  which  a  westerly  wind  of  a  few  hours' 
duration  would  certainly  have  driven  to  the  eastward. 
The  same  wind  would  have  opened  a  channel  along 
the  shore,  and  any  vessel  wraiting  her  opportunity 
at  Payer  Harbour  could  under  those  circumstances  have 
passed  up  the  channel  with  as  little  difficulty  as  the 
'  Polaris  '  experienced  in  1871. 

The  quantity  of  one  season's  ice  met  with  in  the 
bays  on  the  south-east  coast  of  Grinnell  Land  in  1876, 
proves  that  on  the  final  setting  in  of  the  frost,  after  we 
passed  north  in  1875,  the  pack  had  been  driven  from 
the  shore,  leaving  a  navigable  channel  along  the  land. 
Nevertheless  I  do  not  recommend  future  navigators 
who  wish  to  attain  a  high  northern  latitude  by  this 
route  to  wait  for  such  a  favourable  occurrence. 
Certainly  no  one  could  have  made  a  passage  through 
the  ice  in  1876  before  the  10th  September  by  doing 
so.  At  that  date  the  season  had  advanced  so  far  that 
the  attainment  of  sheltered  winter-quarters  would  have 
been  extremely  problematical. 


1870  WE   LEAVE   SMITH   SOUND.  177 


CHAPTEE  VI. 

WE  LEAVE  SMITH  SOUND — DARK  AT  MIDNIGHT — GALE  OF  WIND — BARDEN 
BAY — ARCTIC  HIGHLANDERS — POSSESSION  BAY — CROSS  BAFFIN'S 
BAT — TEMPERATURE  OF  THE  SEA — ARRIVE  AT  DISCO — EGEDESMINDE 

SEVERE  GALE — RUDDER  HEAD  SPRUNG — SIGHT  THE  fc  PANDORA  ' 

ARRIVE     IN     ENGLAND — APPROVAL     OF    THE     LORDS     OF      THE     AD- 
MIRALTY— LETTER    FROM    HER   MAJESTY   THE    QUEEN. 

LEAVING  Cape  Isabella  during  the  night  of  the  9th, 
we  steamed  towards  the  Gary  Islands,  passing  oc- 
casionally through  thin  streams  of  loose  ice,  with  a  few 
icebergs  and  pieces  of  floebergs  intermixed,  but  seldom 
meeting  with  floes  of  any  size.  Those  met  with  did 
not  float  more  than  three  feet  above  water,  and  showed 
marks  of  being  much  decayed,  having  long  tongue-pieces 
extending  below  the  surface  of  the  water. 

A  southerly  wind  springing  up,  we  made  sail, 
standing  to  the  south-west.  As  we  made  westing,  the 
pieces  of  ice  met  with  increased  in  size  and  quantity, 
and  expecting  to  find  the  pack  near  the  coast  of 
Ellesmere  Land,  I  tacked  and  stood  to  the  south-east 
under  steam  and  fore-and-aft  sails. 

The  weather  turning  misty  and  threatening,  with 
snow,  and  the  wind  preventing  our  making  much 
progress  without  the  consumption  of  a  large  amount  of 
coal,  I  decided  to  make  the  ships  fast  to  an  iceberg ; 
accordingly,  with  one  ship  at  either  end  of  a  long 

VOL.    II.  JX 


178  VOYAGE   TO   THE  POLAR  SEA.        SEPTEMBER 

hawser,  its  middle  was  dropped  round  the  weather  side 
of  a  large  berg ;  the  ships  hanging  one  on  each  side 
balanced  each  other,  and  they  rode  thus  very  quietly. 

While  in  this  position  a  sounding  was  obtained  in 
220  fathoms,  the  bottom  being  mud. 

On  the  llth,  with  a  temporary  lull  in  the  wind,  we 
proceeded  under  steam,  but  on  closing  the  Greenland 
shore  about  Whale  Sound,  the  southerly  wind  freshened 
and  obliged  me  to  put  the  ships  under  sail. 

The  wet  snow  falling  with  a  temperature  of  34° 
was  very  annoying ;  as  it  clung  to  each  of  the  ropes 
without  actually  melting,  they  became  more  than  double 
their  original  sizes,  and  only  wanted  the  temperature 
to  fall  below  freezing  point  to  cause  great  trouble  in 
working  the  sails. 

It  was  now  fairly  dark  at  midnight,  but  fortunately 
we  met  with  few  icebergs,  except  when  within  a  dis- 
tance of  four  miles  of  the  land,  and  no  floe-ice  whatever. 

On  the  12th  we  experienced  a  southerly  gale,  with 
very  misty  weather,  and  a  rapidly  falling  barometer. 
On  standing  towards  the  shore  we  made  the  land  about 
Barden  Bay,  and  when  under  shelter  of  the  hills  I 
steamed  in  to  obtain  an  anchorage. 

On  entering  we  passed  the  dangerous  rock,  a- wash 
at  low- water,  off  Cape  Powlett.  It  is  apparently  the 
summit  of  a  very  extensive  patch  of  rocky  ground  ; 
which  is  probably  the  terminal  moraine  of  the  glacier 
which  in  former  times  existed  in  the  neighbourhood. 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  bay  the  level  land 
bordering  the  shore  appeared  to  be  well  vegetated, 
and  on  nearing  the  land  we  observed  an  inhabited 
Eskimo  encampment  with  seven  natives  and  about  a 


]870 


BARDEN    BAY. 


1T9 


dozen  dogs.  Finding  no  anchorage  ground  in  less 
than  forty-five  fathoms,  I  ran  into  a  bay  on  the  south 
shore  immediately  west  of  the  Tyndall  Glacier.  The  side 
moraine  near  its  end  formed  a  steep  ridge  of  rubble 
between  a  smooth  pebbly  beach  in  the  bay  and  the 
glacier  at  the  sea-level.  In  the  north-east  face  we 
observed  a  large  cave,  whose  sides  displayed  the 


SMOOTH-TOPPED    GLACIER   IN    BARDEN    BAY. 

richest  tints  of  blue  darkening  to  blackness  as  the  depth 
of  the  cave  receded  to  an  unknown  distance. 

The  extremely  rugged  and  broken  up  surface  and 
face  of  the  Tyndall  glacier,  which  projects  far  into  the 
sea,  is  in  remarkable  contrast  to  the  smooth  surface  and 
clean-cut  perpendicular  face  of  a  smaller  one  near  the 
mouth  of  the  bay  which  projects  only  a  short  distance 
to  seaward.  We  were  extremely  anxious  to  land,  both 
to  examine  the  very  interesting  glacier  and  to  communi- 

N   2 


180  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.         SEPTEMBER 

cate  with  the  Arctic  Highlanders,  but  the  gale  was 
blowing  so  fiercely  and  the  sea  breaking  so  heavily 
against  the  shore  that  it  was  dangerous  to  send  a  boat 
away  from  the  ship. 

We  looked  forward  to  communicating  with  the 
Eskimo  early  the  following  morning,  and  a  number 
of  presents  were  prepared ;  but  during  the  night 
the  wind  shifted  round  suddenly  to  the  northward, 
blowing  directly  into  the  bay.  The  low  barometer, 
thick  snow-storm,  dark  night,  and  rocky  shore  com- 
pelled me  to  think  more  of  the  ships  than  the  un- 
fortunate Eskimo  ;  so  expecting  a  strong  gale  from 
the  north,  I  steamed  out  to  sea  in  order  to  obtain  an 
offing  from  the  land. 

We  afterwards  gladly  learnt  that  Sir  Allen  Young 
in  the  'Pandora'  had  visited  the  same  family  only 
a  fortnight  previously,  and  given  them  many  valuable 
presents. 

Unsettled  and  misty  weather  prevented  our  com- 
municating with  the  Gary  Islands ;  the  temperature 
falling  to  27°  warning  me  to  make  our  way  south  as 
quickly  as  possible.  The  wind  again  coming  from  the 
southward  we  crossed  Baffin's  Bay  under  sail,  arriving 
off  Possession  Bay  on  the  south  side  of  Lancaster 
Sound  at  noon  of  the  16th.  In  crossing  we  met  with 
few  icebergs  and  no  floe- ice  whatever.  In  misty 
weather  the  numerous  icebergs  which  are  to  be  met 
with  close  to  the  land  between  Cape  York  and  Whale 
Sound,  would  certainly  warn  ships  of  their  proximity 
to  the  shore. 

Near  Cape  Atholl  the  temperature  of  the  water 
was  290>5.  This  was  unusually  low,  as  we  had  found 


187G  TEMPERATURE   OF  THE   SEA.  181 

it  31°  and  30°  farther  north.  Half  way  across  Baffin's 
Bay,  when  abreast  of  Jones  Sound,  we  met  with  a  stream 
of  water  fifty  miles  broad  at  a  temperature  of  34°, 
which  is  evidently  the  extension  northwards  of  the 
warm  Atlantic  water. 

I  fully  expected  to  find  a  strong  current  running 
to  the  southward  out  of  Lancaster  Sound  towards 
Ponds  Bay,  but  nothing  of  the  kind  was  met  with. 

I  accordingly  decided  to  cross  towards  the  Green- 
land shore  in  order  to  ensure  rounding  the  north  end  of 
the  west-ice  which,  with  the  recent  southerly  gales,  I 
expected  would  be  driven  well  to  the  northward. 

Strong  southerly  winds  continuing  we  were  carried 
towards  Melville  Bay,  meeting  with  very  few  icebergs 
and  no  drift  ice.  The  temperature  of  the  water  rose 
to  35°,  but  fell  again  as  we  neared  the  Greenland 
shore.  At  noon  of  the  19th  we  were  seventy  miles 
west  of  the  Devil's  Thumb.  A  light  northerly  wind 
then  enabled  us  to  make  a  direct  course  towards 
Upernivik. 

On  the  20th  and  21st  southerly  winds  again  obliged 
me  to  put  the  ships  under  sail,  our  small  supply  of  coal 
rendering  it  prudent  only  to  steam  during  a  perfect 
calm,  and  then  for  one  ship  to  tow  the  other. 

On  the  22nd  we  met  with  the  eastern  edge  of  the 
western  pack,  in  latitude  71°'50N.,  longitude  60°*18  W. 
A  temper ature  sounding  obtained  in  its  vicinity  showed 
that  the  temperature  decreased  gradually  down  to 
290<0  at  a  depth  of  twenty  fathoms,  it  then  gradually 
increased  to  30°'0  at  the  depth  of  a  hundred  fathoms. 

As  we  neared  the  north  entrance  to  the  Waigat 
Straits  the  temperature  of  the  sea  increased  to  36°, 


182  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.        SEPTEMBER 

and  off  the  Disco  coast  to  38°,  that  at  a  depth  of  forty- 
five  fathoms  being  32°*5. 

On  rounding  the  south-western  point  of  Disco  on 
the  25th  we  found  the  sea  abounding  in  life  :  nume- 
rous finner  whales,  porpoises,  and  seals.  Large  flocks 
of  eider  ducks  and  dovekies  in  their  winter  plumage 
were  feeding  in  this  highly  favoured  locality. 

On  entering  the  well-known  anchorage  of  Lievely 
we  were  warmly  welcomed  by  our  kind  friends,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Krarup  Smith  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fencker, 
who  informed  us  that  the  'Pandora'  had  left  for 
England  only  four  days  previously. 

We  remained  two  days  at  Disco,  Mr.  Smith  kindly 
supplying  us  with  a  small  quantity  of  coal.  The 
weather  felt  to  us  extraordinarily  mild,  the  tempera- 
ture ranging  from  40°  to  48°.  It  appears  that  this 
harbour  is  never  frozen  over  before  the  end  of  No- 
vember, and  is  often  open  until  January.  Ships  there- 
fore need  not  fear  when  running  for  the  port  late  in  the 
season,  or  of  making  a  passage  to  the  southward  if 
they  keep  in  the  warm  stream  near  the  Greenland 
shore. 

Owing  to  the  shortness  and  uncertainty  of  the  cold 
season  the  settlement  on  the  Whale  Fish  Islands  has 
lately  been  abandoned.  Thick  ice  certain  to  remain 
stationary  affords  a  safer  fishing-ground  for  the  Eskimo 
than  a  warmer  station  with  thin  ice  liable  to  be 
broken  up. 

At  Disco  the  salmon  fishing  ends  with  the  freezing 
of  the  shore  lakes  in  October  ;  but  cod  can  be  pro- 
cured all  the  winter. 

Hans   Heindrich    and    Frederick   were  landed  at 


1876  VISIT  LIEVELY.  183 

Lievely,  the  few  remaining  dogs  being  given  to  them. 
These  poor  animals  which  had  performed  such  good 
service  during  the  travelling  season  had  sickened  much 
since  we  had  experienced  wet  unsettled  weather,  and 
from  their  confinement  on  board  during  the  passage 
south. 

Hans  was  to  remain  at  Disco  until  the  following 
spring,  when  the  ice  would  permit  him  to  journey 
north  and  join  his  family  at  Proven. 

Frederick  in  his  excitement  at  returning  home 
could  scarcely  find  time  to  look  after  his  own  goods, 
but  his  numerous  friends  on  board  took  care  that  he 
was  not  the  loser  ;  with  his  many  riches  he  has  doubt- 
less long  since  found  a  wife. 

On  the  29th  we  arrived  at  Egedesminde,  a  well- 
protected  anchorage  at  the  south  of  Disco  Bay. 

The  long  and  intricate  passages  between  the  nu- 
merous islets  and  rocks  make  it  necessary  for  ships  to 
have  a  pilot  when  entering  and  leaving  the  harbour. 

Governor  Bolbroe  kindly  supplied  us  with  twenty 
tons  of  coal,  but  owing  to  a  bad  season  he  could  only 
give  us  one  haunch  of  venison  :  this  was,  however,  suffi- 
cient for  a  meal  for  the  former  invalids,  who  by  this 
time  were,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  well  and  strong. 
It  was  noticed  that  this  venison  possessed  a  musky 
flavour,  especially  the  meat  farthest  from  the  bone. 

Our  visit  to  Egedesminde  was  rather  opportune, 
as  there  were  numerous  cases  of  scurvy  among  the 
Eskimo  and  the  few  Europeans.  I  accordingly  landed 
a  large  quantity  of  lime-juice  and  all  the  remaining 
private  stock  of  sundries  belonging  to  the  officers,  not 
the  least  acceptable  present  being  a  quantity  of  music, 


184  VOYAGE   TO   THE   POLAR   SEA.  OCTOBER 

eau-de-cologne,  and  mittens,  with  which  Mrs.  Bolbroe, 
her  children,  and  governess  were  supplied. 

On  the  2nd  we  bade  adieu  to  our  kind  friends,  arid 
on  the  4th  recrossed  the  Arctic  circle,  after  expe- 
riencing fifteen  months'  unnatural  division  of  light  and 
darkness. 

Encountering  a  succession  of  strong  contrary  gales, 
very  slow  progress  was  made  to  the  southward. 

As  the  weather  became  warmer  and  damper  many 
of  the  men  were  attacked  by  colds  and  rheumatism, 
after  an  almost  total  exemption  from  those  ailments  in 
the  extremely  cold  but  dry  weather  we  had  experienced 
in  the  far  north. 

Keeping  near  the  Greenland  coast  only  a  few 
straggling  icebergs  were  met  with ;  and  floe-ice  on 
only  one  occasion,  when  the  wind  had  driven  the  ships 
over  towards  the  west  shore. 

In  Davis  Strait  the  temperature  of  the  water 
varied  considerably,  ranging  between  33°  and  39°, 
probably  depending  on  our  distance  from  the  western 
ice.  The  specific  gravity  in  the  cold  streams  denoted 
Polar  water. 

Vast  numbers  of  little  auks  were  observed  migrating 
to  the  southward,  in  small  flocks  of  about  twenty  to 
fifty  in  number,  and  many  bottle-nose  whales  were 
seen. 

On  the  12th,  during  a  very  severe  gale,  in  which 
the  ships  were  hove-to  under  a  closed-reefed  main  top- 
sail and  storm  staysail,  the  rudder-head  of  the  '  Alert,' 
which  had  been  sprung  when  the  ship  was  in  the  ice, 
became  hopelessly  unserviceable,  the  lower  part  of  the 
rudder  remaining  sound. 


1876  RUDDER   DAMAGED.  185 

As  the  rudder  pendants  had  necessarily  been  re- 
moved when  the  ship  was  amongst  the  ice,  it  was  with 
no  little  difficulty  that  temporary  ones  were  improvised ; 
but  by  their  means,  and  with  careful  attention  to  the 
trim  of  the  sails,  the  '  Alert '  crossed  the  Atlantic. 

On  the  16th  we  fell  in  with  the  '  Pandora,'  the 
only  vessel  met  with  during  the  voyage.  The  three 
ships  kept  company  for  two  days,  but  on  the  night  of 
the  19th  we  lost  sight  of  each  other  during  a  strong 
gale. 

On  the  20th,  in  the  middle  of  a  very  heavy  storm, 
with  the  sea  a  mass  of  driving  foam,  the  rudder  pendants 
carried  away  ;  fortunately  we  were  hove-to  on  the 
starboard  tack.  Before  evening  we  succeeded  in  se- 
curing another  pair,  and  during  a  lull  in  the  wind  bore 
up. 

Expecting  Captains  Stephenson  and  Allen  Young 
to  be  ahead,  we  made  as  much  sail  as  possible ;  but  it 
appeared  afterwards  that  they  also  had  been  obliged 
to  heave-to  owing  to  the  violence  of  the  wind. 

Not  wishing  to  proceed  up  the  English  Channel 
under  sail  with  a  defective  rudder,  and  the  wind  having 
driven  us  considerably  to  the  northward,  the  '  Alert ' 
entered  Valentia  Harbour  on  the  27th  of  October; 
the  '  Discovery  '  arriving  at  Queenstown  on  the  29th. 
After  shifting  the  rudder,  the  '  Alert '  proceeded  to 
Queenstown,  and  the  two  ships  having  again  joined 
company,  entered  Portsmouth  Harbour  on  the  2nd  of 
November  ;  the  '  Pandora '  arriving  at  Falmouth  on 
the  previous  day. 

I  will  not  here  dwell  on  the  warm  and  hearty 
reception  which  the  officers  and  men  received  from  all 


186  VOYAGE  TO  THE   POLAR   SEA.         OCTOBER  187(3 

classes  of  their  countrymen,  notwithstanding  the  some- 
what natural  disappointment  that  the  North  Pole  had 
not  been  reached. 

The  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  were 
pleased  to  express  their  warm  approval  of  the  conduct 
of  all  engaged  in  the  Expedition,  and  we  were  honoured 
by  receiving  the  following  letter  addressed  to  the 
First  Lord  of  the  Admiralty  by  direction  of  Her  Most 
Gracious  Majesty  the  Queen. 

«  BALMORAL  :  November  4,  1876. 

6  Dear  Mr.  Hunt, — 

'  I  am  commanded  by  the  Queen  to  request 
that  you  will  communicate  to  Captain  Nares,  and  to 
the  officers  and  men  under  his  command,  Her  Majesty's 
hearty  congratulations  on  their  safe  return. 

'  The  Queen  highly  appreciates  the  valuable  ser- 
vices which  have  been  rendered  by  mthem  in  the  late 
Arctic  Expedition,  and  she  fully  sympathises  in  the 
hardships  and  sufferings  they  have  endured,  and  laments 
the  loss  of  life  which  has  occurred. 

'  The  Queen  would  be  glad  if  her  thanks  could  be 
duly  conveyed  to  these  gallant  men  for  what  they 
have  accomplished. 

'  Yours  very  truly, 

'  HENRY  F.  PONSONBY.' 


187 


APPENDIX. 

No.  I. 

ETHNOLOGY.1 
BY  HENRY  W.  FEILDEN,  F.G.S.,  F.R.G.S.,  C.M.Z.S. 

THE  Eskimo  that  inhabit  the  coasts  of  North  Greenland 
between  Cape  York,  the  northern  boundary  of  Melville  Bay, 
and  the  Humboldt  Glacier,  are  (with  the  exception  perhaps 
of  the  natives  of  Ellesmere  Land)  the  most  northern  inhabi- 
tants of  our  globe.  These  sa^aroi  avbpwv  were  discovered 
by  Captain  Sir  John  Ross  during  his  voyage  to  Baffin's  Bay 
in  1818,  and  received  from  him  the  name  of  'Arctic  High- 
landers,' an  inappropriate  designation  for  a  people  of  purely 
littoral  habits.  The  expedition  of  1875-76  communicated 
with  some  of  these  people  at  Cape  York  on  the  voyage  north- 
wards ;  but  in  July  1875  the  village  of  Etah,  on  the  north 
shore  of  Foulke  Fiord,  was  found  temporarily  deserted. 
Etah  is  the  most  northern  settlement  of  the  Eskimo  on  the 
Greenland  coast,  and  the  one  from  where  members  of  the 
tribe  travel  in  their  hunting  expeditions  as  far  north  as  the 
southern  termination  of  the  Humboldt  Glacier,  a  little 
beyond  lat.  79°  N.,  where  traces  of  ancient  settlements  were 
discovered  by  Dr.  Kane  in  Dallas  Bay.  It  has  been  assumed, 
somewhat  too  hastily,  that  the  (  Arctic  Highlanders '  are  a 
race  completely  isolated  from  any  other  human  beings.  From 

1  Extended  from  the  <  Zoologist,'  1877,  pp.  314-316. 


188  APPENDIX.  No.  I. 

information  derived  from  one  of  the  natives  resident  at  Etah, 
the  members  of  the  '  Polaris  '  Expedition  ' — who  wintered 
1872-73,  in  the  vicinity  of  Port  Foulke — ascertained  that 
many  Eskimo  live  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cape  Isabella, 
and  along  the  coast  of  Ellesmere  Land,  their  informant 
stating  that  it  was  called  Uming-mak  Island,  from  the 
number  of  musk-oxen  that  are  found  on  it,  and  that  he  had 
frequently  travelled  round  it  himself.  Consequently  the 
northern  range  of  the  natives  of  Ellesmere  Land  is  in  all 
probability  equal  to  that  of  the  Etah  Eskimo.  There  can 
be  no  doubt  that  there  is  casual,  if  not  regular  intercourse 
between  the  inhabitants  of  both  sides  of  Smith  Sound  ;  and 
one  route,  by  which  the  migration  of  the  Eskimo  from  North 
America  to  Greenland  was  effected,  can  be  traced.  The 
narratives  of  Dr.  Kane  and  Dr.  Hayes,  and  more  recently  the 
official  report  of  the  '  Polaris '  Expedition,  contain  most  in- 
teresting accounts  of  the  habits  and  mode  of  life  of  the 
'  Arctic  Highlanders ' ;  and  it  is  satisfactory  to  observe  from 
the  latest  information  that  the  number  of  this  interesting 
community  has  in  no  way  diminished  during  the  last  twenty 
years. 

In  1875  we  found  at  Cape  Sabine,  Ellesmere  Land,  the 
remains  of  several  ancient  Eskimo  encampments,  as  well  as  an 
old  sledge  made  of  walrus  bones,  with  cross-bars  of  narwhal 
horn,  completely  lichen-covered  and  of  such  antiquity  that  the 
bones  were  friable,  and  also  fragments  of  a  stone  lamp  ;  but 
nearer  to  the  shore  were  traces  of  a  recent  visit,  consisting 
of  a  blackened  fire-place,  made  of  three  stones  placed  against 
a  rock,  with  the  hairs  of  a  white  bear  sticking  to  the  grease- 
spots,  a  harpoon  with  iron  tip,  and  the  excreta  of  the  dogs 
that  had  fed  on  the  bear's  hide.  Further  north,  on  the  shores 
of  Buchanan  Strait,  we  came  upon  deserted  settlements  con- 
taining the  ruins  of  many  igloos ;  in  one  instance  the  ribs  of  a 
large  cetacean  had  been  used  as  the  rafters  of  a  hut ;  bones  of 
reindeer,  musk-ox,  bear,  seal,  and  walrus  were  strewed  around, 

i  Narr.  '  Polaris/  North  Polar  Exp.  (Washington,  1876),  p.  477. 


.No.  I.  ETHNOLOGY.  189 

and  we  picked  up  many  articles  of  human  workmanship  in 
bone,  wood,  and    ivory.      In   Grinnell    Land,  still    further 
north,  we  found  that  Norman  Lockyer  Island,  in  Franklin 
Pierce    Bay,   must    at   one   time  have  been    the    home   of 
numerous  Eskimo.       On    August   11,   1875,   I    landed  and 
walked  along  the  northern  shore  of  this  island  for  some  two 
miles ;  it  was  strewed  with  the  bones  of  walrus,  whilst  skulls 
of  this  animal  were  lying  about  in  hundreds,  all  broken  more 
or  less  by  human  agency,  in  every  instance  the  tusks  having 
been  extracted.    Skulls  of  Phoca  barbata  and  Phoca  hispida, 
broken  at  the  base  in  order  to  extract  the  brain,  were  numer- 
ous, and  I  came  across  large  portions  of  the  skeleton  of  a 
cetacean.     Patches  of  green  moss  marked  the  sites  of  ancient 
dwellings,  and  circles  of  stones  those  of  summer  tents,  whilst 
numerous  stone  caches*  and  cooking-places  now  overgrown  with 
moss  and  lichen,  but  containing  calcined  bones,  bore  witness 
to  the  former  presence  of  inhabitants.     At  Cape  Harrison,  on 
the  western  side  of  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  I  observed  two  or 
three  circles  of  stones  placed  on  a  terrace  at  a  height  of  over 
100  feet  above  present  sea- level:  this  was  the  greatest  eleva- 
tion at  which  I  observed  remains  of  habitations  on  the  shores 
of  Smith  Sound.     At  various  other  places   in  Grinnell  Land, 
still  further   north,  notably  at   Cape  Hilgard,  Cape  Louis 
Napoleon,  Cape  Hayes,  and  Cape  Frazer,  we  .came  across  old 
traces  of  Eskimo.     At  Radmore  Harbour,  in  lat.  80°  25'  N., 
we  found  the  ruins  of  another  large  settlement,  apparently  as 
long  deserted  as  the  one  on  Norman  J^ockyer  Island.     After 
removing  the  green  moss  and  overturning  some  of  the  stones 
that  had  once  formed  the  walls  of  the  igloos,  several  interest- 
ing ivory  relics  were  discovered.     On  Bellot  Island,  at  the 
entrance   of  Discovery  Bay,  lat.   81°  44'   N.,  were  rings  of 
lichen-covered  stones  that  marked  the  sites  of  old  encamp- 
ments, fragments  of  bone   and    chips  of   drift-wood  being 
strewn  around.      In  the  neighbourhood   of  Discovery  Bay 
Dr.  Moss,  of  H.M.S.  '  Alert,'  picked  up  the  fragment  of  a 
human  femur.     A  few  miles  south  of  Cape  Beechey  we  found 
more  circles  of  tent-stones  ;  and  near  at  hand  a  small  heap 


]  90  APPENDIX.  No.  J. 

of  rock-crystals  and  flakes  showed  where  the  artificers  in 
stone  had  been  making  arrow  or  harpoon  heads.  Close  to 
Cape  Beechey,  and  about  six  or  seven  miles  from  the  eighty- 
second  parallel  of  latitude,  we  came  across  the  most  northern 
traces  of  man  that  have  yet  been  found  ;  these  consisted  of 
the  framework  of  a  large  wooden  sledge,  a  stone  lamp  in 
good  preservation,  and  a  very  perfect  snow-scraper  made  out 
of  a  walrus  tusk.  Taking  into  consideration  that  where  these 
relics  were  found  is  the  narrowest  part  of  Robeson  Channel, 
at  this  point  not  more  than  thirteen  miles  across,  and  that  a 
few  miles  to  the  south,  on  the  opposite  shore  of  Hail  Land, 
the  '  Polaris '  Expedition  found  traces  of  summer  encamp- 
ments, I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  this  must  have  been  the 
spot  selected  for  crossing  over  the  channel ;  and  owing  pro- 
bably to  the  difficult  and  dangerous  nature  of  the  ice  to  be 
encountered,  the  heavy  sledge  and  impedimenta  were  left 
behind.  On  Offley  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  Petermann 
Fiord,  Mr.  Bryan  *  of  the  '  Polaris '  found  an  old  Eskimo 
settlement,  consisting  of  the  remains  of  several  stone  huts, 
whilst  the  ground  around  was  strewed  with  the  bleached 
bones  of  animals  that  had  constituted  the  food  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. Northwards  from  Cape  Beechey  no  trace  of  man  was 
discovered  by  any  of  our  travelling  parties,  neither  westward 
along  the  shores  of  Grinnell  Land,  nor  eastward  along  the 
coasts  of  Greenland  that  border  the  Polar  Sea.  I  feel  satisfied 
that  the  men  whose  tracks  we  followed  as  far  as  lat.  82°  N., 
never  passed  Cape  Union.  Even  in  July  and  August,  animal 
life  is  too  scarce  along  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea  to  support 
a  party  of  wandering  Eskimo,  whilst  the  idea  of  winter  resi- 
dence is  beyond  consideration.  There  is  no  essential  reason 
why  the  Eskimo  should  have  travelled  around  the  northern 
shores  of  the  Greenland  continent  in  order  to  reach  its  eastern 
coast ;  the  presence  of  the  tribe  seen  by  Sabine  and  Clavering 
on  that  side  of  Greenland  may  be  accounted  for  by  their 
having  doubled  Cape  Farewell  from  the  westward.  It  is  well 

1  Narr.  <  Polaris,'  North  Polar  Exp.,  pp.  371-372. 


No.  I.  ETHNOLOGY.  191 

known  that  formerly  considerable  numbers  of  Eskimo  were 
living  to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Farewell,  but  year  by  year 
stragglers  and  small  parties  from  these  outside  savages  have 
re-entered  the  Danish  colonies  to  the  westward  of  the 
Cape,  and  have  become  absorbed  amongst  the  civilised 
Greenlanders.  This  slow  but  steady  return  to  the  southward 
may  account  for  the  German  Polar  Expedition  of  1869—70 
not  meeting  with  the  Eskimo  tribe  seen  by  Sabine  on  the 
east  coast.  The  result  of  our  observations  amounts  to  this, 
that  along  the  shores  of  Smith  Sound,  Kennedy  Channel, 
Hall  Basin,  and  Kobeson  Channel,  to  a  point  three  degrees 
north  of  the  present  extreme  range  of  the  Etah  Eskimo,  there 
are  to  be  found  not  only  traces  of  wanderings,  but  many 
proofs  of  former  permanent  habitation  in  places  where,  under 
present  climatic  conditions,  it  would  be  impossible  for  Eskimo 
to  exist. 

The  abandonment  by  the  Eskimo  of  these  settlements  in 
Grinnell  Land  and  Greenland,  as  well  as  in  the  Parry  Islands, 
is  a  subject  of  considerable  interest.  It  points  to  a  change  in 
the  physical  conditions  of  an  extensive  area  lying  within  the 
Arctic  zone. 


192  APrENDJX.  No.  II. 


No.  II. 
MAMMALIA.* 

BY  HENRY  W.  FEILDEN,  F.G.S.,  F.R.G.S.,  C.M.Z.S. 

OARNIVORA. 

1.  CANIS  LUPUS  (Linn.) — This  animal  was  observed  by  the 
'Polaris'  Expedition  in  Hall  Land  on  April  1, 1872.2  Singu- 
larly enough,  on  the  same  day,  1876,  several  wolves  made  their 
appearance  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  winter-quarters  of  the 
'  Alert.'  They  were  evidently  following  a  small  herd  of  musk- 
oxen,  whose  tracks  and  traces  were  observed  in  the  vicinity ; 
and  that  they  were  able  at  times  to  secure  these  animals  was 
shown  by  their  dung  being  composed  chiefly  of  musk-ox 
wool  and  splinters  of  bone.  Several  of  our  sportsmen  started  in 
pursuit  of  these  wolves,  but  with  one  exception  they  did  not 
allow  anyone  to  approach  them  within  three  or  four  hundred 
yards.  The  following  day,  April  2,  the  wolves  still  continued 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  ship,  and  at  intervals  their  long, 
melancholy,  but  not  unmusical  wail  reverberated  from  the 
hills.  After  this  date  we  saw  no  more  of  these  animals  till 
May  25,  when  a  single  individual  followed  the  sledge  I  was 
with  for  several  days  as  we  travelled  along  the  coast.  It  was 
a  most  cunning  beast,  and  eluded  all  our  efforts  to  get  a 
shot  at  it.  Subsequently  I  procured  a  skull  and  part  of  the 
skeleton  of  one  of  these  animals,  which  was  picked  up  by  a 

1  Extended  from  the  '  Zoologist/  1877,  pp.  313-321,  353-361. 

2  Narr.  <  Polaris/  North  Polar  Exp.,  p.  338. 


No.  II.  MAMMALIA.  193 

sailor  of  the  ship.     This  animal  is  infested  by  a  species  of 
Tcenia. 

'2.  VULPES  LAGOPUS  (Linn.)—  The  Arctic  fox  decreases 
in  numbers  as  we  proceed  up  Smith  Sound.  One  was  shot 
on  the  ice  near  Victoria  Head,  Grinnell  Land,  while  prowl- 
ing around  the  ship,  and  more  than  one  specimen  was 
obtained  near  the  winter-quarters  of  the  '  Discovery.'  At 
Floeberg  Beach,  the  winter-quarters  of  the  '  Alert,'  footprints 
of  the  fox  were  occasionally  seen  in  the  snow,  but  it  was  not 
till  July  13,  1876,  that  I  obtained  a  specimen  in  the  flesh. 
On  that  occasion  Lieutenant  Parr  and  I  were  out  on  a  hunting 
expedition,  our  tent  being  pitched  at  Dumbell  Harbour, 
some  miles  north  of  Floeberg  Beach,  and  from  it  we  made 
daily  incursions  up  the  valleys  leading  to  the  uplands  in 
hopes  of  meeting  with  big  game.  On  the  date  above  men- 
tioned we  had  ascended  to  an  altitude  of  800  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  had  emerged  on  a  great  plateau  which  stretched  for 
several  miles  towards  a  range  of  mountains.  All  of  a  sudden 
we  were  startled  by  the  sharp  bark  of  a.  fox.  A  year  had 
elapsed  since  we  had  heard  such  a  sound.  It  seemed  very 
close  to  us,  and  as  the  fog  lifted  we  saw  the  animal  standing 
on  a  little  hill  of  piled-up  rocks  that  rose  like  an  islet  from 
the  plain.  Separating,  we  approached  the  fox  from  opposite 
directions.  Parr  fired  at  it,  when  it  dropped  down  and 
crawled  below  some  large  rocks ;  out  rushed  the  female  from 
its  lair,  and  we  secured  her.  The  flora  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  this  den  was  remarkably  rich,  the  soil  having  been  fertilised 
by  the  presence  of  the  foxes.  Several  saxifrages,  a  Stellaria,  a 
Draba,  and  two  or  three  kinds  of  grasses  were  in  bloom,  and 
the  yellow  blossom  of  the  Potentilla  brightened  the  spot.  As 
we  rested  there,  many  lemmings  popped  up  from  their  holes, 
and  undismayed  by  our  presence,  commenced  feeding  on  the 
plants.  We  noticed  that  numerous  dead  lemmings  were 
scattered  around.  In  every  case  they  had  been  killed  in  the 
same  manner,  the  sharp  canine  teeth  of  the  foxes  had 
penetrated  the  brain.  Presently  we  came  upon  two  ermines 
killed  in  the  same  manner.  These  were  joyful  prizes,  for  up 
VOL.  II.  O 


194  APPENDIX.  No.  II. 

to  this  time  we  had  not  obtained  these  animals  in  northern 
Grinnell  Land.    Then  to  our  surprise  we  discovered  numerous 
deposits  of  dead  lemmings  ;  in  one  hidden  nook  under  a  rock 
we  pulled  out  a  heap  of  over  fifty.     We  disturbed  numerous 
6  caches '  of  twenty  and  thirty,  and  the   ground  was  honey- 
combed with  holes  each  of  which  contained  several  bodies  of 
these  little  animals,  a  small  quantity  of  earth  being  placed  over 
them.    In  one  hole  we  found  the  greater  part  of  a  hare  hidden 
away.    The  wings  of  young  brent  geese  were  also  lying  about ; 
and  as  these  birds  were  at  that  date  only  just  hatching,  it 
showed  that  they  must  have  been"  the  results  of  successful 
forays  of  prior  seasons,  and  that  consequently  the  foxes  occupy 
the  same  abodes  from  year  to  year.     I   had  long  wondered 
how    the  Arctic  fox    existed    during   the    winter.     Professor 
Newton  had  already  suggested,  in  his  '  Notes  on  the  Zoology 
of  Spitsbergen,' l  that  it  laid  up  a  store  of  provisions,  and  I 
was  much  pleased  by  thus  being  able  to  prove  his  theory 
correct.    Although  I  subsequently  saw  a  second  pair  in  the  same 
neighbourhood,  yet  the  Arctic  fox  may  be  considered  somewhat 
rare  in  the  northern  part  of  Grrinnell  Land.     The  specimens 
obtained  did  not  differ  in  size  from  those  killed  further  south. 
3.  MUSTELA  ERMINEA  (Linn.) — The  ermine  has  followed 
the  lemming  in  its  northern  migrations  to  the  shores  of  the 
Polar  Basin,  and  crossing  Eobeson  Channel  in  pursuit  of  that 
little  rodent,  it  has  invaded  North  Greenland,  where  Lieu- 
tenant Beaumont  secured  an  example  during  his  sledge  jour- 
ney in  latitude  82°  15'  N.     On  the  eastern  shore  of  Green- 
land,   where   it    was   found   by  the    Germans,2    it   doubtless 
extends  as  far  south  as  the  range  of  the  lemming.    I  obtained 
specimens  in    Grinnell  Land  as  far  north  as   82°  30',  and 
several  examples  were  shot  near  Discovery  Bay.     It  is  hunted 
and  killed  by  the  Arctic  fox.     We  noticed  the  tracks' of  this 
little  animal  in  the  snow  on  the  reappearance  of  sunlight,  and 
remarked  that  it  is  infested  by  a  Tcenia. 

1  <Proc.  Zool.  Soc.,'  1864,  p.  496. 

2  '  Zweite  Deutscli.  Nordpolarf.'  II.  p.  159. 


No.  II.  MAMMALIA.  195 

4.  URSUS   MARITIMUS   (Linn.) — There  is  little  to  tempt 
the  Polar  bear  to  leave  the  comparatively  rich  hunting-fields 
of  the  north- water  of  Baffin's   Bay  for  the   dreary  shores  of 
Smith  Sound  and  northward.     A  single  example  was  killed 
near  Bessels'  Bay  by  Joe  the  Eskimo1  in  1872,  and  footmarks 
were  observed  by  members  of  our  expedition  near  Thank  God 
Harbour  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cape  Hayes.     At  the 
present  day  I  do  not  imagine  the  white  bear  ever  enters  the 
Polar  Basin  through  Eobeson  Channel.     The  cranium  of  a 
very  large  example  was  found  by  Captain   Markham  on  the 
northern  shores  of  Grinnell  Land  in  latitude  82°  30'  N.,  some 
distance  from  present  high-water  level.     I  think  it  is  not 
improbable  that  this  skull  may  have  been  washed  out  of  the 
post -pliocene  deposits  which  fill  up  the  valleys  of  that  region 
to  an  altitude  of  several  hundred  feet,  and  which  contain  the 
remains  of  seal,  musk-ox,  and  other  animals,  with  abundance 
of  drift-wood,  and  the  shells  of  most  of  the  mollusca  now 
inhabiting  the  adjacent  sea.     If  I  am  right  in  this  surmise, 
there  is  no  saying  from  what  distance  or  from  what  direction 
this  cranium  may  have  been  brought  on  an  ice-raft. 

5.  PHOCA   HISPIDA  (Schreb.) — The  ringed  seal  was  met 
with  in  most  of  the  bays  we  entered  during  our  passage  up 
and  down  Smith  Sound.     It  was  the  only  species  seen  north 
of  Cape  Union,  and  which  penetrates  into  the  Polar  Sea. 
Lieutenant  Aldrich,  during  his  autumn  sledging  in   1875, 
noticed  a  single  example  in  a  pool  of  water  near  Cape  Joseph 
Henry,    and   a   party  which  I  accompanied  in    September 
1875,  secured  one  in  Dumbell  Harbour,  some  miles  north  of 
the  winter-quarters  of  the  '  Alert ; '  its  stomach  contained 
remains  of  crustaceans  and  annelids.     In  June  of  the  follow- 
ing year  I  observed  three  or  four  of  these  animals  on  the  ice 
of  Dumbell  Harbour.     They  had  made  holes  in  the  bay  ice 
that  had  formed  in  this  protected  inlet.     The  Polar  pack  was 
at  this  time  of  the  year  still  firmly  wedged  against  the  shores 
of  Grinnell  Land,  and  so  tightly  packed  in  Robeson  Channel 

1  Narr.  'Polaris,'  North  Polar  Exp.,  p.  349. 
o  2 


196  APPENDIX.  No.  II. 

that  no  seal  could  by  any  possibility  have  worked  its  way 
into  this  inlet  from  outside.  I  am  therefore  quite  satisfied 
that  Phoca  hispida  is  resident  throughout  the  year  in  the 
localities  mentioned.  A  female  killed  on  August  23,  1876, 
weighed  sixty-five  pounds. 

6.  PHOCA   BARBATA   (Fab.) — On   several   occasions  while 
proceeding  up  Smith  Sound  I  observed  this  large  seal.     We 
did  not  see  it  north  of  Robeson  Channel.     Individuals  were 
procured  in  Discovery  Bay,  lat.  81°  44'  N.,and  also  at  Thank 
God  Harbour,  from  whence  it   has  been  recorded    by  Dr. 
Bessels.     I  found  the  skulls   of  this  animal  in  the  ancient 
Eskimo  settlements  of  Smith  Sound.     On  August  31,  1876, 
Hans,  the  Greenlander  on  board  the  '  Discovery,'  shot  one  of 
these  seals  in  Dobbin  Bay.     I  was  informed  that  it  weighed 
510  pounds.     On  taking  off  its  skin  an  Eskimo  harpoon  was 
found  buried  in  the  blubber  on  its  back  ;  the  socket  of  the 
dart  was  made  of  ivory,  the  blade  being  wrought  iron.     Hans 
pronounced  it  to  be  a  Greenland  harpoon-head,  and  suggested 
that  the  animal  had  been  struck  in  the  Danish  settlements. 
P.  grcenlandica  is  recorded  by  Dr.   Bessels  *  from  Thank 
God  Harbour,  but  I  did  not  observe  it  in  Smith  Sound  or 
northwards. 

7.  TRICHECDS  ROSMARUS  (Linn.) — Kane  and   Hayes  de- 
scribe the  walrus  as  very  abundant  in  the  vicinity  of  Port 
Foulke,    and   the   Eskimo   of  Etah    must  capture  a   great 
number  of  them,  as  many  skulls  and  bones  of  this  animal  are 
strewed  about  their  settlement,  which  we  found  deserted  in 
July  1875.     Curiously  enough,  we  did  not  see  one  of  these 
animals  in  the  vicinity  of  Port  Foulke  nor  in  Smith  Sound, 
until  we  reached  Franklin  Pierce  Bay.     There,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Norman   Lockyer  Island,  we  saw  several   walruses,  and 
killed  two  or  three.     Their  stomachs  contained  fragments  of 
Mya  and  Saxicava,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  a  green 
oily  matter.     Near  Cape  Frazer  I  saw  a  single  walrus,  but  as 
far  as  my  observation  goes,  it  does  not  proceed  further  north 

1  '  Bulletin  de  la  Societe  de  Geographie,'  1875,  p.  296. 


No.  II.  MAMMALIA.  197 

than  the  meeting  of  the  Baffin's  Bay  and  Polar  tides  near  the 
above-mentioned  cape. 

CETACEA, 

8.  BALDEN  A  MYSTICETUS  (Linn.) — A  portion  of  the  rib  of 
a  Greenland  whale  was  found  by  Lieutenant  Egerton  on  the 
northern  shores  of  Grinnell  Land,  in  lat.  82°  33'  N.     It  was 
of  great  antiquity,  but    I  am  unprepared  to  advance  any 
opinion  as  to  how  it  got  there.     I  am,  however,  quite  satisfied 
on  one  point,  and  that  is,  no  whale  could  inhabit  at  the 
present  day  the  frozen  sea  to  the  north  of  Robeson  Channel. 
To  penetrate  thither  from  the  north-water  of  Baffin's   Bay 
would  be  a  hazardous  task  for   this   great   animal,  and  in 
this  opinion  the  experienced   whaling  quarter-masters   who 
accompanied  our   Expedition  coincided.     We   may  dismiss 
from  our  minds  the  idea  or  hope  that  nearer  to  the  Pole,  and 
beyond  the  limits  of  present  discovery,  there  may  be  haunts 
in  the  Polar  Sea  suitable  for  the  right  whale.     I  do  not  look 
for  the  speedy  extinction  of  the  Greenland  whale  ;  but  it  is 
probable  that  in  a  few  years  the  fishing  will  no  longer  prove 
profitable  to  the  fine  fleet  of  whalers  that  now  sail  from  our 
northern  ports,  and  I  see  no  hope   of  Arctic  discovery  in- 
creasing our  knowledge  of  the  range  of  this  animal. 

9.  MONODON  MOXOCEROS  (Linn.) — During  the  month  of 
August,  while  we  were  waiting  in  Payer  Harbour,  near  Cape 
Sabine,  we  noticed  several  narwhals  playing  at  the  edge  of 
the  ice,  but  we  saw  no  more  of  them  after  entering  the  pack 
of  Smith  Sound.     The  range  of  the  narwhal  in  that  direction 
is  no  doubt  coincident  with  the  summer  extension  of  the 
north-water  of  Baffin's  Bay.     It  is  not  included  by  Dr.  Bessels 
among  the  animals  of  Hall  Land.     An  ancient  tusk  of  the 
narwhal  was  picked  up  by  Lieutenant  Parr  on  the  shore  of 
Grinnell  Land,  a  little  above   the  present  sea-level,  a  few 
miles  to  the  north  of  the  winter  quarters  of  the  '  Alert.' 


198  APPENDIX.  No.  II. 


UNGULATA. 

10.  RANGIFER  TARANDUS  (Linn.) — The  reindeer  was  not 
actually  met  with  by  our  Expedition  to  the  northward  of 
Port  Foulke,  but  its  newly-shed  horns  were  found  in  the 
Valley  of  the  Twin  Glacier,  Buchanan  Strait.     I  came  across 
a  skeleton  recently  picked  by  wolves  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Radmore   Harbour,  lat.  80°   21'  N.     At  various    points 
along  the  coast  of  Grinnell  Land,  further  north,  we  came 
upon  shed  antlers,  but  these  may  have  been  of  considerable 
antiquity,  whilst  Lieutenant  Giffard  found  and  brought  to 
the 'ship  a  portion  of  an  antler  which  he  picked  up  in  lat. 
82°  45'  N.     The  horns  of  a  reindeer  were  found  at  Thank 
God  Harbour,  by  one  of  the   '  Polaris '  Expedition  in  June 
1872.1 

11.  OVIBOS  MOSCHATUS  (Zimm.) — The  fossil    remains  of 
Ovibos  found  in  Siberia,  North  America,  Germany,  France 
and  England  have  been  determined  by  naturalists  as  iden- 
tical with   the   species   now  found   living  in  the   northern 
regions  of  the    American  continent  and  the  northern  and 
eastern    shores    of    Greenland,    whilst    most  of  the   larger 
mammalia  of  the  Pleistocene  period,  with  which  the  musk-ox 
was  associated,  have  passed  away.     The  musk-ox,  being  truly 
an   Arctic  mammal,  doubtless   travelled   northward  as  the 
glacial  cold  diminished ;  but  in  Europe  and  Asia  it  found 
its  limit    of  withdrawal  bounded  by   the  mainlands  of  the 
Old  World.     No  trace  of  it  has  been  discovered  in  Spits- 
bergen  or    Franz  Joseph    Land ;   and   the   reasonable   con- 
clusion  is   that   the  great   extent   of  sea   which   separates 
these  groups  of  islands  from  the  continents,  formed  an  in- 
superable obstacle  to  its  progress  in  that  direction.     Doubt- 
less its  remains  are  to  be  found  in  the  New  Siberian  Islands, 
and  there  is  no  valid  reason  why  it  should  not  still  inhabit 
Kellett  Land.     So  far  as  we  know,  however,  the   musk-ox 
living  on  the  Arctic  shores  of  Asia  had  no  inaccessible  re- 

1  Narr.  <  Polaris,'  North  Polar  Exp.,  p.  378 


No.  II.  MAMMALIA.  199 

treats  analogous  to  the  Parry  Archipelago  of  America,  and 
consequently  when  brought   into   collision  with  man  must 
have  quickly  disappeared.      Towards  the  close   of  the  last 
Glacial  period,  when  the  Straits  of  Behring  were  doubtless 
as  choked  with  ice  as  the  passage  now  is  between  Banks' 
Land  and  Melville  Island,  there  could  have  been  no  great 
obstacle  to  prevent  the  passage  of  the  musk-ox  from  the  Old 
World  to  the  New ;  but  whether  its  course  of  migration  was 
from  Asia  to  America,  or  contrariwise,  there  can  be  no  ques- 
tion that  on  the  latter  continent  it  found  a  congenial  home. 
Its  remains  have  been  discovered  in  greater  or  less  quantities 
from  Escholtz  Bay  on  the  west  to  the  shores  of  Lancaster 
Sound,  whilst  the  animal  still  inhabits  the  Barren-lands  of 
the  American  continent.     Even  in  this  wilderness,  sparsely 
inhabited  by  Eskimo,  its  southern  range  is  slowly  contracting, 
whilst,  according  to  Eichardson,  the  Mackenzie  River  is  now 
its  western  limit.     Melville  Island   and  other  lands  to  the 
north  of  the  American  -continent  have  proved  a  safe  asylum 
to  the  musk-ox,  and  there  it  will  continue  to  propagate  its 
species,  undisturbed  save  by  the  casual  appearance  of  Arctic 
voyagers.     From   the  islands  of  the  Parry  group  its  range 
northwards  across  the  eightieth  parallel  into  Ellesmere  and 
Grinnell  Land,  as  high  as  the  eighty-third  parallel  to  the 
shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  is  extremely  natural ;  and  Robeson 
Channel,  which  has  presented  no  obstacle  to  the  progress  of 
the  lemming  and  ermine,  has  also  been  crossed  by  the  musk- 
ox,  the  '  Polaris '  Expedition  as  well  as  ours  finding  it  in  Hall 
Land.      After   crossing   the    strait   between    the    American 
islands  and  Greenland,  the  musk-ox  appears  to  have  followed 
the  coasts  both  in  a  northerly  and  southerly  direction,  its 
range  in  Greenland  to  the  southward  being  stopped  by  the 
great  glaciers  of  Melville  Bay.     At  one  time  it  must  have 
been  abundant  on  the  West  Greenland  coast  as  far  south  as 
the  seventy-eighth   parallel,  for  Dr.  Kane  found  numerous 
remains  in  the  vicinity  of  Rensselaer  Bay,  and  Dr.  Hayes 
found  a  skull  in  Chester  Valley  at  the  head  of  Foulke  Fiord. 
During  the  single  day  we  explored  in  the  neighbourhood  of 


200  APPENDIX.  No.  II. 

that  locality  two  skulls  were  found  by  members  of  our  Ex- 
pedition. The  destruction  of  these  animals  would,  I  think, 
rapidly  follow  on  the  appearance  of  the  Eskimo  at  Port 
Foulke ;  for  I  imagine  few  animals  are  less  fitted  to  elude 
the  wiles  of  the  hunter.  There  can  be  no  question  that  the 
musk-oxen  found  by  the  Germans  on  the  east  coast  of  Green- 
land are  descendants  of  those  that  crossed  Kobeson  Channel, 
rounded  the  north  of  the  Greenland  continent,  and  extended 
their  range  southward  until  they  met  with  some  physical 
obstruction  that  barred  their  further  progress,  as  has  also 
been  ths  case  on  the  western  shore  of  Greenland.  Dr.  Robert 
Brown,  in  his  '  Essay  on  the  Physical  Structure  of  Greenland,' 
published  by  the  Geographical  Society  for  the  use  of  the 
recent  Arctic  Expedition,  thus  refers  to  this  range  of  the 
musk-ox,  lemming  and  ermine  :  '  These  illustrations,  though 
seemingly  trivial  in  themselves,  are  yet  of  extreme  zoo- 
geographical  interest  as  tending  to  show  that  the  Greenland 
land  must  end  not  far  north  of  latitude  82°  or  83°.'  In  the 
month  of  August,  1875,  we  met  with  abundant  traces  of  the 
musk-ox  in  the  valley  of  the  Twin  Glacier,  leading  inland 
from  the  shores  of  Buchanan  Strait.  I  noticed  where  these 
animals  had  been  sheltering  themselves  under  the  lee  of  big 
boulders,  as  sheep  do  on  bleak  hill-sides,  and  that  the  same 
spots  were  frequently  occupied  was  shown  by  the  holes  tramped 
out  by  the  animals,  and  the  large  quantities  of  their  long 
soft  wool  which  was  scattered  around.  Musk-oxen  were 
obtained  in  considerable  numbers  near  to  the  winter-quarters 
of  the  '  Discovery,'  over  forty  being  shot ;  but  in  the  extreme 
north  of  Grinnell  Land,  nearer  to  the  winter-quarters  of  the 
6  Alert,'  they  were  much  scarcer,  only  six  having  been  obtained 
by  the  crew  of  that  vessel,  whilst  at  Thank  God  Harbour, 
where  the  '  Polaris '  Expedition  obtained  over  a  score,  only 
one  was  seen  and  shot.  The  range  of  the  musk-ox  in  Grinnell 
Land  is  confined  to  the  coast-line  and  the  valleys  debouching 
thereon.  It  is  an  animal  by  no  means  fitted  to  travel  through 
the  deep  soft  snow  which  blocks  up  the  heads  of  all  these 
valleys.  On  one  occasion,  in  Westward  Ho  !  Valley,  in  the 


No.  II.  MAMMALIA.  201 

month  of  May,  Lieutenant  Egerton  and  I  came  across  fresh 
tracks  of  this  animal  in  soft  snow,  through  which  it  had  sunk 
belly-deep,  ploughing  out  a  path,  and  leaving  fragments  of 
wool  behind  in  its  struggles.  Its  progression  under  such 
circumstances  is  similar  to  that  of  a  snow-plough.  We 
noticed  that  spots  on  hill-sides  where  the  snow  lay  only  a  few 
inches  deep  had  been  selected  for  feeding  grounds,  the  snow 
having  been  pushed  away  in  furrows  banked  up  at  the  end, 
as  if  the  head  and  horns  of  the  animal  had  been  used  for  the 
task ;  a  few  blades  of  grass  and  roots  of  willow  showed  on 
what  they  had  been  feeding.  The  dung  of  the  musk-ox, 
though  usually  dropped  in  pellets  like  sheep  or  deer,  is  very 
often  undistinguishable  from  that  of  the  genus  Bos.  No 
person,  however,  watching  this  animal  in  a  state  of  nature, 
could  fail  to  see  how  essentially  ovine  are  its  actions.  When 
alarmed  they  gather  together  like  a  flock  of  sheep  herded  by 
a  collie  dog,  and  the  way  in  which  they  pack  closely  together 
and  follow  blindly  the  vacillating  leadership  of  the  old  ram 
is  unquestionably  sheep-like.  When  thoroughly  frightened 
they  take  to  the  hills,  ascending  precipitous  slopes,  and 
scaling  rocks  with  great  agility.  How  the  musk-ox  obtains 
food  during  the  long  Arctic  night  is  very  extraordinary ;  but 
that  it  is  a  resident  throughout  the  year  cannot  be  doubted, 
as  a  month  after  the  reappearance  of  sunlight,  in  the  end  of 
March,  and  at  the  very  coldest  season  of  the  year,  we  found 
the  fresh  traces  of  these  animals  in  the  vicinity  of  our  winter- 
quarters.  I  am  quite  sure  that  the  number  of  musk-oxen  in 
Grinnell  Land  is  extremely  limited,  whilst  the  means  of 
subsistence  can  only  supply  the  wants  of  a  fixed  number; 
consequently,  after  an  invasion  such  as  ours,  when  every 
animal  obtainable  was  slaughtered  for  food,  it  must  take 
some  years  to  restock  the  ground.  The  cause  of  the  dis- 
agreeable odour  which  frequently  taints  the  flesh  of  these 
animals  has  received  no  elucidation  from  my  observations. 
It  does  not  appear  to  be  confined  to  either  sex,  or  to  any 
particular  season  of  the  year ;  for  a  young  unweaned  animal 
killed  at  its  mother's  side,  and  transferred  within  an  hour 


202  APPENDIX.  No.  II. 

to  the  stew-pans,  was  rank  and  objectionable,  whilst  the  flesh 
of  some  adult  animals  of  both  sexes  of  which  I  have  partaken, 
was  dark,  tender  and  well-flavoured.  Richardson  states  that 
the  food  of  the  musk-ox  is  at  one  season  of  the  year  grass, 
at  another  lichen.  Only  leaves  and  stems  of  willow,  with 
grasses,  were  in  the  stomachs  I  examined.  This  animal  is 
infested  with  two  species  of  worms,  a  Tcenia  and  a  Filar ta. 


GL1RES. 

12.  MYODES  TORQUATUS  (Pall.) — The  ringed  lemming 
was  found  in  great  abundance  along  the  western  shores  of 
Smith  Sound,  and  was  traced  by  our  explorers  to  lat.  83°  N., 
and  to  the  extreme  western  point  attained.  On  the  Green- 
land shore  it  was  found  by  members  of  our  Expedition  at 
Thank  God  Harbour,  where  it  had  previously  been  obtained 
by  Dr.  Bessels,1  and  traces  of  it  were  noticed  by  our  sledge 
parties  who  travelled  along  the  northern  shores  of  Greenland. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  eastern  migration  of  this 
animal  has  been  across  Robeson  Channel  and  around  the  north 
coast  of  Greenland  to  Scoresby  Sound  on  the  east  coast,  from 
which  locality  this  animal  was  brought  by  Captain  Scoresby 
in  1822.  Apparently  its  southern  range  on  the  west  coast  of 
Greenland  is  stopped  by  the  great  Humboldt  Glacier.  This 
lemming  is  a  great  wanderer ;  we  found  it  on  the  floes  of 
Robeson  Channel  at  considerable  distances  from  land,  some- 
times in  a  very  exhausted  state,  but  generally  dead.  Its 
habit  of  leaving  the  shore  and  wandering  over  the  ice  fully 
accounts  for  the  skeleton  of  one  of  this  species  being  found  on 
a  floe  in  lat.  81°  45'  N.,  sixty  miles  from  Spitsbergen,  by  Sir 
J.  C.  Ross  during  Parry's  memorable  attempt  to  reach  the 
North  Pole  in  1827.2  We  are  indebted  to  Dr.  von  Midden- 
dorff  for  an  excellent  account  of  the  anatomy  and  external 

1  '  Bulletin  de  la  Societe  de  Geographie/  1875,  p.  296. 

2  '  Narr.  Attempt  to  reach  North  Pole  '  (Parry),  p.  190. 


No.  II.  MAMMALIA.  203 

characters  of  this  lemming.1  He  was  able  to  show  that  the 
extraordinary  development  of  the  claws  of  the  fore-feet  which 
is  sometimes  observed,  is  not  a  specific  character,  nor  due  to 
age  or  sex,  but  he  could  not  determine  whether  it  was 
seasonal,  as  specimens  with  such  claws  were  known  in  both 
winter  and  summer  coats.  The  series  which  I  collected  in 
Grinnell  Land  enables  me  to  determine  this  point.  The 
strap-like  development  of  the  claws  persists  in  these  latitudes 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  while  the  ground  is 
covered  with  snow,  and  is  thus  retained  for  some  time  after 
the  animal  has  put  on  the  summer  livery.  But  by  the  end  of 
summer,  when  large  areas  are  bared  of  snow,  the  claws  are  worn 
down  to  an  ordinary  size  and  become  pointed.  This  seasonal 
development  is,  in  fact,  analogous  to  what  we  find  in  some  of 
the  northern  Tetraonidce.  The  food  of  this  lemming  consists 
of  vegetable  substances,  especially  the  buds  of  Saxifraga 
oppositifolia.  It  makes  nests  of  grass  in  the  snow,  which  we 
often  found  during  summer  as  the  snow  thawed  ;  in  most 
cases  large  accumulations  of  the  dung  of  these  animals  were 
lying  close  to  the  nests.  I  see  no  reason  to  suppose  that  this 
animal  hybernates,  for  on  the  return  of  light,  with  a  tem- 
perature at  minus  50°  and  a  deep  mantle  of  snow  covering 
the  land,  the  lemming  was  to  be  seen  on  the  surface  of  the 
snow,  close  to  its  burrow,  blinking  at  the  first  rays  of  the 
sun ;  and  during  the  depths  of  winter  there  could  be  no 
greater  difficulty  in  procuring  food  than  in  February.  At 
that  season  of  the  year  I  found  the  stomach  of  the  lem- 
ming filled  with  green  buds  of  saxifrage,  which  had  been 
gathered  from  under  the  snow.  Sometimes  I  came  across 
the  lemming  at  some  distance  from  the  hole  by  which  it 
retreats  to  its  galleries  under  the  snow,  and  it  was  interest- 
ing to  see  the  speed  with  which  it  could  disappear, 
throwing  itself  on  its  head,  its  fore-paws  worked  with  great 
rapidity,  rotating  outwards,  and  throwing  up  a  cloud  of 
snow-dust  some  six  inches  high.  Later  on  in  the  year  I 

1  <  Reise  Sibir./  II.  Th.  2,  pp.  87-99,  pis.  IV.-VII. 


204  APPENDIX.  No.  II. 

have  seen  a  lemming  baffle  the  attempts  at  capture  of  a 
long-tailed  skua  by  the  same  tactics.  The  female  brings 
forth  from  three  to  five  at  a  birth  in  June  and  July,  making 
a  comfortable  nest  of  grass  for  their  reception. 

13.  LEPUS  GLACIALIS  (Leach).— The  Polar  hare  was 
found,  though  in  scanty  numbers,  along  the  shores  of  Grinnell 
Land,  and  its  footprints  were  seen  on  the  snow-clad  ice  of  the 
Polar  Sea  by  Captain  Markham  and  Lieutenant  Parr  in  lat. 
83°  10'  N.,  a  distance  of  about  twenty  miles  north  of  the 
nearest  land.  In  the  autumn  of  1875  three  or  four  examples 
were  shot  in  the  neighbourhood  of  our  winter- quarters,  lat. 
82°  27'  N.,  and  as  soon  as  a  glimmer  of  light  enabled  us  to 
make  out  their  tracks  in  the  snow  we  were  off.  in  pursuit  of 
them.  On  February  14,  two  weeks  before  the  sun  reappeared 
at  midday,  the  temperature  minus  56°,  1  started  one  from  its 
burrow,  a  hole  about  four  feet  in  length,  scraped  horizontally 
into  a  snowdrift.  I  have  no  doubt  the  same  burrow  is 
regularly  occupied,  as  this  one  was  discoloured  by  the  feet  of 
the  animal,  and  a  quantity  of  hair  was  sticking  to  the  sides ; 
all  around  the  hare  had  been  scratching  up  the  snow  and 
feeding  on  Saxifraga  oppositifolia.  Even  where  exposed  by 
the  wind,  this  hardy  plant  had  delicate  green  buds  showing 
on  the  brown  withered  surface  of  the  last  year's  growth.  The 
hare  does  not  tear  up  this  plant  by  the  roots,  but  nibbles  off 
the  minute  green  shoots.  On  February  1 9,  a  hare  was  shot 
by  Dr.  Moss  ;  it  was  a  male,  and  weighed  nine  pounds  and  a 
half;  and  another  was  obtained  on  the  20th.  On  May  18,  at 
Westward  Ho !  Valley,  I  shot  two  hares,  one  was  a  female 
and  contained  eight  young  ones.  By  the  end  of  July  the 
young  were  nearly  as  large  as  their  parents,  and  were  pure 
white,  save  the  tips  of  the  ears,  which  were  mouse-grey,  with 
a  small  streak  of  the  same  colour  passing  down  from  the  apex 
of  the  head  to  the  snout.  The  adults  have  the  ears  tipped 
with  black.  The  number  of  young  that  we  found  in  gravid 
females  varied  from  seven  to  eight,  which  is  much  in  excess 
of  that  produced  in  Great  Britain  by  Lepus  variabilis, 
from  which  naturalists  have  found  difficulty  in  separating 


No.  II.  MAMMALIA.  205 

the  Arctic  species.1  Fabricius2  records  the  fact  of  this  animal 
in  Greenland  having  eight  young  ones.  Near  Lincoln  Bay, 
in  lat.  82°  8'  N.,  a  hare  was  shot  on  August  31,  1875,  with  a 
very  distorted  skull,  the  nasal  bones  being  twisted  to  the 
right  hand,  the  incisors  of  the  upper  jaw  being  deflected  in 
the  same  direction.  In  the  lower  jaw  only  the  left  incisor 
was  developed,  and  that  protruded  in  a  nearly  horizontal 
direction.  This  specimen,  though  in  good  condition,  was 
small,  and  weighed  only  five  pounds  and  a  half;  another, 
killed  the  same  day,  nine  pounds.  They  were  both  pure  white, 
with  the  tips  of  the  ear  black.  We  find,  therefore,  Lepus 
glacialis  inhabiting  the  most  northern  land  yet  visited,  and 
attaining  its  normal  weight,  eight  to  ten  pounds,  under 
apparently  very  adverse  circumstances.  Still  I  must  say  it  is 
sparsely  diffused,  and  we  found  that  after  killing  a  pair  or 
two  out  of  each  valley  that  afforded  any  vegetation  the  race 
seemed  to  be  extirpated  in  that  district,  and  I  imagine  it  will 
take  several  years  to  restock  the  area  over  which  we  hunted 
along  the  northern  shore  of  Grinnell  Land.  Examples  examined 
by  me  contained  many  parasitical  worms,  Filaria,  in  the  large 
intestine. 

1  On  the  specific    distinction   of  the  Polar  have,  cf.  Peters ;   2te. 
Deutsch.  Nordpolarf.  II.  pp.  164-7. 

2  '  Fauna  Grceulandica/  p.  25. 


206  APPENDIX.  No.  III. 


No.   III. 

ORNITHOLOGY.1 
BY  HENRY  W.  FEILDEN,  F.G.S.,  F.R.G.S.,  C.M.Z.S. 

THE  species  of  birds  met  with  by  the  Arctic  Expedition  in 
Smith  Sound  and  northward,  between  the  seventy-eighth 
and  eighty-third  degrees  of  north  latitude,  are  well  known 
Polar  forms,  and  the  chief  interest  lies  in  the  record  of  their 
great  northern  extension  in  the  western  hemisphere.  The 
only  other  part  of  the  globe  lying  within  nearly  the  same 
parallels  of  latitude  with  which  we  are  well  acquainted  is 
Spitsbergen ;  and  though  that  group  of  islands  has  been 
frequently  visited  by  naturalists,  yet  the  number  of  species 
of  birds,  including  stragglers,  at  present  known  to  have 
occurred  there  is  under  thirty.  Were  I  to  include  in  this 
list  species  recorded  by  Dr.  Bessels2  from  Thank  God 
Harbour,  not  met  with  by  me,  the  list  of  the  avifauna  of 
Smith  Sound  and  Spitsbergen  would  be  about  numerically 
equal :  thus  according,  as  far  as  numbers  are  concerned,  with 
the  opinion  published  before  the  Expedition  left  England  by 
Professor  Newton3  of  Cambridge  ;  and,  except  amongst  those 

1  Condensed  from  <  The  Ibis/  1877,  pp.  401-412. 

2  '  Bulletin    de    la    Societe   de    Geographic,'    1875,  pp.    296-297. 
Twenty-three  species  are  included  by  Dr.  Bessels  in  this  list  from  Hall 
Land.     Of  these,  three  species,    Tringa  maritima,   Xema  Sabini,   and 
Stercorarius  parasiticus  (Baird),  were  not  obtained  by  me.    On  the  other 
hand  four  species,  viz. :  jEgialitis  Iriaticula,  Phalaropm  fulicarius,  Tringa 
canutus,  and  a  Colymbus,  observed  by  me,  are  additional  to  Dr.  Bessels' 
list,  thus  raising  the  aggregate  of  the  species  recorded  from  Smith  Sound 
and  northward,  to  twenty-seven. 

3  '  Arctic  Manual/  p.  114,  1875. 


No.  III.  ORNITHOLOGY.  207 

sanguine  persons  who  may  still  cling  to  a  belief  in  the 
existence  of  an  '  open  Polar  Sea,'  I  think  it  is  impossible  to 
doubt  that,  both  specifically  and  numerically,  bird-life  must 
rapidly  decrease  with  every  degree  of  northern  latitude  after 
passing  the  eighty-second  parallel.  If,  however,  there  be  an 
extension  of  land  to  the  northernmost  part  of  our  globe, 
I  see  no  reason  why  a  few  species  of  birds  should  not  re- 
sort there  to  breed ;  and  those  most  likely  to  proceed  there 
are  Plectrophanes  nivalis,  Strepsilas  inte'rpres,  Calidris 
arenaria,  Tringa  canutus,  and  Sterna  macrura.  There 
would  still  be  sufficient  summer,  if  such  a  term  may  be  used, 
for  the  period  of  incubation  ;  and  from  what  I  have  seen  of 
the  transporting  powers  of  the  wind  in  drifting  seeds  over 
the  frozen  expanse  of  the  Polar  Sea,  I  cannot  doubt  that  a 
scanty  flora  exists  at  the  Pole  itself,  if  there  be  any  land 
there,  and  that  the  abundance  of  insect-life  which  exists  as 
high  as  the  eighty-third  degree  will  be  present  at  the  ninetieth, 
sufficient  to  provide  for  a  few  knots,  sanderlings,  and  turn- 
stones.  The  Arctic  Sea  at  the  most  northern  point  reached 
abounds  with  Amphipoda,  such  as  Anonyx  nugax,  which 
doubtless  extend  all  through  the  Polar  Basin  ;  and  these 
crustaceans  supply  the  Arctic  tern  with  food  in  those  parts 
where  the  continual  presence  of  ice  prevents  fish  coming  to 
the  surface  ;  for  wherever  there  is  land  not  cased  in  peren- 
nial ice,  there  must  be  tidal  ice-cracks,  which  allow  these 
minute  animals  to  work  their  way  up  between  the  floes.  The 
range  of  the  brent-goose  is  probably  coincident  with  the 
growth  of  Saxifraga  oppositifolia ;  and  this  plant  also 
supplies  subsistence  to  the  knot,  the  turnstone,  and  the 
sanderling,  before  the  long  Arctic  day  has  awakened  the  insect- 
life. 

Dr.  Homer,  of  the  yacht  c  Pandora,'  kindly  informed  me 
that  in  July  1876  he  saw  an  example  of  Saxlcola  cenanthe 
at  Port  Foulke,  a  iar  more  northern  range  of  this  species 
than  had  previously  been  recorded. 

I  was  much  struck  with  the  extreme  shyness  of  all  the 
birds  we  met  with  in  the  far  north  ;  and  until  they  had 


208  APPENDIX.  No.  III. 

settled  down  to  nesting  it  was  no  easy  matter  to  get  within 
gunshot  range. 

1.  FALCO  CANDICANS. — The  Greenland  falcon,  though  seen 
on  several  occasions,  was  not  procured  by  us  in  Smith  Sound. 
Mr.  Hart  noticed  a  pair  of  these,  birds  nesting  in  the  lime- 
stone cliffs  near  Cape  Hayes,  Grinnell  Land  (lat.  79°  42'  N.), 
but  was  unable  to  secure  a  specimen.     From  this  point  to 
our  most  northern  extreme  this  falcon  was  not  observed  by 
any  member  of  the  Expedition.     On  August  24,  1876,  near 
Cape  Frazer  (lat.  79°  44X  N.),  when  on  our  return  south- 
wards, a  bird  of  this  species  flew  round  our  vessels.    The 
following  morning,  when  on  shore  between  Cape  Hayes  and 
Cape  Napoleon,  I  saw  a  magnificent  example  of  F.  candicans 
seated  on  a  rock  ;    it  permitted  me  to  get  within  seventy 
or  eighty  yards,  but  I  failed  in  procuring  it. 

2.  NICTEA   SCANDIACA. — The    snowy    owl    is   a   common 
spring  and  summer  migrant  to  the  northern  part  of  Grinnell 
Land.     On  October  2,  1875,  I  observed  an  individual  of  this 
species  seated  on  a  hummock  in  the  vicinity  of  our  winter- 
quarters  (lat.  82°  27'  N.).     On  March  29,  1876,  an  example 
was  seen  by  Lieutenant  Parr  some  three  miles  north  of  the 
ship.  On  May  1 5,  whilst  travelling  up  a  valley  (lat.  82°  40'  N.) 
in  Grinnell  Land,  our  party  disturbed  a  snowy  owl  from  the 
ground.     Subsequently   this   species   was   not    unfrequently 
observed;  a  pair  seemed  commonly  to  breed  in  each  large 
valley  running  down  to  the  sea-shore.     On  June  24  we  found 
a  snowy  owl's  nest  containing  seven  eggs  (lat.  82°  33'  N.) ; 
the  nest  was  a  mere  hollow  scooped  out  of  the   earth,  and 
situated  on  the  summit  of  an  eminence  which  rose  from  the 
centre  of  the  valley.     Several  other  nests  were  found  in  the 
vicinity  of  our  winter-quarters,  at  one  time  there  were  six  or 
seven  fine  young  birds  caged  on  board.     In  the  vicinity  of 
Discovery  Bay  (lat.  81°  44'  N.)  this  owl  bred  abundantly. 
During  the  month  of  August,  while  proceeding  southwards, 
it  was  no  uncommon  circumstance  to  see  one  or  more  of 
these  birds  occupying  a  conspicuous  post  on  the  bold  head- 
lands we  were  passing  under.     By  the  end  of  the  month  all 


Xo.  III.  ORNITHOLOGY.  209 

had  disappeared.  The  food  of  the  snowy  owl  in  Grinnell 
Land  appears  to  consist  entirely  of  the  lemming  (My odes 
torquatus).  Hundreds  of  their  cast  pellets,  which  I  picked 
up  and  examined,  consisted  of  the  bones  and  fur  of  these 
little  animals  ;  and  the  stomachs  of  all  I  opened  contained 
the  same. 

3.  PLECTROPHANES  NIVALIS. — After  passing   the  seventy- 
eighth  degree  of  north  latitude  the  snow-bunting  is  not  met 
with  in  the  same  numbers  as  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Danish  settlements  of  West  Greenland,  but  it  is  dispersed 
generally  along  the  shores  of  Smith  Sound  and  the  Polar 
Basin.      On    August  28,   1875,   at   Shift-Kudder   Bay  (lat. 
81°  52'  N.),  I  observed  a  flock  of  about  eighty,  and  another, 
in  which   I  counted  over   twenty  birds,  flying   south.     On 
September  14,  Lieutenant  Parr  met  with  a  solitary  individual 
in  lat.  82°  35'  N. ;  and  the  last  one  I  observed  that  season 
flew  past  the  ship  on  September  24. 

Next  spring  I  first  heard  this  bird  when  travelling  on 
May  13,  1876,  in  lat.  82°  35'  N. ;  the  following  day  I 
observed  one  ;  and  after  that  day  they  were  frequently  met 
with.  On  May  27,  Lieutenant  Parr,  on  his  journey  from 
the  north  over  the  ice,  saw  a  snow-bunting  near  to  the 
eighty-third  degree.  I  found  a  nest  of  this  species  on  June 
24  (lat.  82°  33'  N.),  containing  four  eggs,  within  twenty  feet 
of  the  nest  of  a  snowy  owl;  it  was  neatly  constructed  of 
grasses,  and  lined  with  the  owl's  feathers.  On  another 
occasion  I  found  a  nest  lined  with  the  soft  wool  of  the 
musk-ox. 

4.  CORVUS  CORAX. — A  pair  of  ravens  were  observed  by 
Dr.  Coppinger  to  be  nesting  in  the  cliffs  of  Cape  Lupton 
during  the  month  of  July.     While  this  officer  was  detained 
at  Polaris  Bay  by  the  sickness  of  some  of  the  sledge-crews, 
he  noticed  these  birds  visit  his  camp  daily  in  search  of  offal. 
The  raven  was  not  observed  by  any  of  our  Expedition  along 
the  shores  of  the  Polar  Basin ;  so  that  I  consider  Cape  Lupton 
(lat.  81°  44'  N.)  the  northernmost  settlement  of  this  species. 
August  29,  1876,  at  Dobbin  Bay  (lat.  79°  36'  N.),  a  female, 

VOL.   II.  P 


210  APPENDIX.  No.  III. 

one  of  a  pair,  was  shot  by  Dr.  Moss,  who  enticed  it  within 
range  by  laying  down  a  dead  hare  and  concealing  himself 
near  at  hand.  South  of  Dobbin  Bay  I  observed  this  species 
at  several  points  in  Smith  Sound — namely,  at  Cape  Hayes, 
Norman  Lockyer  Island,  and  Cape  Sabine. 

5.  LAGOPUS  RUPESTRIS. — The  rock -ptarmigan  was  obtained 
by  our  sledging  parties  as  far  north  as  82°  46',  two  or  three 
couples  having  been  killed  by  me  in  the  end  of  May   on 
Feilden   Peninsula.      Lieutenant    Aldrich   found   traces    of 
ptarmigan   on  Cape  Columbia  (lat.   83°   6'   N.),   the   most 
northern  land  yet  visited  by  man.     On  September  *29,  1875, 
Captain  Markham,  in  lat.  82°  40'  N.,  observed  four  of  these 
birds  ;  and  the  earliest  date  on  which  they  were  noticed  in 
the  spring  of  1876  was  on  March  11. 

6.  STREPSILAS    INTERPRES. — The   turnstone    is    tolerably 
abundant  in  Smith  Sound  and  the  region  north  of  it  visited 
by  the  Expedition.     It  was  observed  as  late  as  September  5, 

1875,  in  lat.  82°  30'  N.,  and  was  first  noticed  on  June  5, 

1876,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  winter-quarters  of  H.M.S. 
4  Alert.'     By  August  1 2  the  young  broods  were  able  to  fly. 

7.  ^EGIALITIS  HIATICULA. — Only  a  single  example  of  the 
ringed-plover   was  observed  in  Smith   Sound.     It  was   ob- 
tained August  4,  1875,  on  the  beach  bordering  the  valley 
of  the  Twin-Glacier,  in  Buchanan  Strait  (lat.  78°  48'  N.) 
My  attention  was  drawn  to  the  bird  by  its  note ;  and  I  then 
observed  it  threading  its  way  among  the  stones  and  stranded 
blocks  of  ice  near  the  water's  edge.    It  was  probably  nesting 
in  the  neighbourhood,  as  it  proved  on  examination  to  be  a 
female,    with    the  feathers    worn    off  the    underparts    from 
incubation. 

8.  CALIDRIS  ARENARIA  (Plate    I.)— I   first   observed   the 
sanderling  in  Grinnell  Land  on  June  5,  1876,  flying  in  com- 
pany with  knots  and  turnstoneg ;  at  this  date  it  was  feeding, 
like  the  other  waders,  on  the  buds  of  Saxifraga  oppositifolia. 
This  bird  was  by  no  means  abundant  along  the  coasts  of 
Grinnell  Land  ;  but  I  observed  several  pairs  in  the  aggre- 
gate, and  found  a  nest  of  this  species  containing  two  eggs,  in 


del. 


HanKart  1-ith. 


EGGS  OF   CALIDRIS  ARENARIA. 


No.  III.  ORNITHOLOGY.  211 

lat  82°  33'  N.,  on  June  24,  1876.  This  nest,  from  which  I 
killed  the  male  bird,  was  placed  on  a  gravel  ridge  at  an 
altitude  of  several  hundred  feet  above  the  sea  ;  and  the  eggs 
were  deposited  in  a  slight  depression  in  the  centre  of  a 
recumbent  plant  of  willow,  the  lining  of  the  nest  consisting 
of  a  few  withered  leaves  and  some  of  the  last  year's  catkins. 
August  8,  1876,  along  the  shores  of  Eobeson  Channel,  I  saw 
several  parties  of  young  ones,  three  to  four  in  number,  fol- 
lowing their  parents,  and  led  by  the  old  birds,  searching 
most  diligently  for  insects.  At  this  date  they  were  in  a  very 
interesting  stage  of  plumage,  being  just  able  to  fly,  but 
retaining  some  of  the  down  on  their  feathers. 

9.  PHALAROPTJS  FULICARIUS. — I   obtained  an   example  of 
the   grey  phalarope,  a  female,  near   the    '  Alert's '    winter- 
quarters  (lat.  82°  27'  N.)  on  June  30,  1876 ;  and  during  the 
month  of  July  I  observed  a  pair  on  a  small  fresh- water  pond 
in  lat.  82°  30'  N. ;   they  were  apparently  breeding.     The 
female  of  this  species  is  larger  and  brighter-coloured  than 
the  male  bird.     Several  other  examples  were  observed  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  our  winter-quarters  by  various  members  of 
the  Expedition. 

10.  TRINGA  CANUTUS. — I  was  not  so  fortunate  as  to  obtain 
the  eggs  of  the  knot  during  our  stay  in  the  Polar  regions, 
though  it  breeds  in  some  numbers  along  the  shores  of  Smith 
Sound  and  the  north  coast  of  Grinnell  Land.     It  appears  to 
be  common  throughout  the  Parry  Islands  during  summer, 
as  Sabine   found  it  (in  1820)  nesting  in  great  numbers  on 
Melville  Island.     I  find  it  enumerated,  in  a  list  of  birds 
preserved  in   the  archives   of  the  Admiralty,   as   procured 
by  Dr.  Anderson,  of  H.M.S.  '  Enterprise,'  at  Cambridge  Bay 
(lat.    69°    10'  N.)  in  July  1853.     On  July   28,    1875,  Dr. 
Coppinger  came  across  a  party  of  six  knots  several  miles 
inland  from  Port  Foulke  :  these  birds  were  feeding  near  a 
rill,  and  were  very  wild ;  but  he  managed  to  secure  a  single 
specimen,   a   male  in  full   breeding-plumage.     August    25, 
1875,  I  observed  several  of  these  birds  near  the  water-edge 

p  2 


212  APPENDIX.  No.  III. 

in  Discovery  Bay  (lat.  81°  44'  N.)  The  rills  and  marshes 
were  by  this  time  frozen,  and  the  birds  were  feeding  along 
the  shore  on  the  small  crustaceans  so  common  in  the  Arctic 
Sea ;  in  pursuit  of  their  food  they  ran  breast-high  into  the 
water.  By  this  date  they  had  lost  their  breeding-plumage. 
On  June  5,  1876,  when  camped  near  Knot  Harbour,  Grrinnell 
Land  (lat.  82°  33'  N.),  we  noticed  the  first  arrival  of  these 
birds ;  a  flock  of  fourteen  or  more  were  circling  over  a  hill- 
side, alighting  on  bare  patches,  and  feeding  eagerly  on  the 
buds  of  Saxifraga  oppositifolia.  Subsequently  we  met  with 
this  bird  in  considerable  numbers  ;  but  they  were  always  very 
wild  and  most  difficult  of  approach.  The  cry  of  the  knot  is 
wild,  and  something  like  that  of  the  curlew.  Immediately 
after  arrival  in  June  they  began  to  mate,  and  at  times  I 
noticed  two  or  more  males  following  a  single  female  ;  at  this 
season  they  soar  in  the  air,  like  the  common  snipe,  and  when 
descending  from  a  height  beat  their  wings  behind  the  back 
with  a  rapid  motion,  which  produces  a  loud  whirring  noise. 
During  the  'month  of  July  my  companions  and  I  often 
endeavoured  to  discover  the  nest  of  this  bird ;  but  none  of  us 
were  successful.  However,  on  July  30,  1876,  the  day  before 
we  broke  out  of  our  winter-quarters,  where  we  had  been 
frozen-in  eleven  months,  three  of  our  seamen,  walking  by  the 
border  of  a  small  lake,  not  far  from  the  ship,  came  upon  an 
old  bird  accompanied  by  three  nestlings,  which  they  brought 
to  me.  The  old  bird  proved  to  be  a  male  ;  its  stomach  and 
those  of  the  young  ones  were  filled  with  insects.  The 
following  description  of  the  newly-hatched  birds  was  taken 
down  at  the  time : — Iris,  black ;  tip  of  mandibles,  dark 
brown  ;  bill,  dark  olive ;  toes,  black ;  soles  of  feet,  greenish 
yellow  ;  back  of  legs,  the  same  ;  underpart  of  throat,  satin- 
white ;  back,  beautifully  mottled  tortoise-shell.  Dr.  Cop- 
pinger  informed  me  that  this  bird  was  not  uncommon  at 
Thank  Grod  Harbour  during  July.  In  the  first  week  of 
August  I  saw  family  parties  of  knots  at  Shift-Eudder  Bay 
(lat.  81°  52'  N.) ;  they  were  then  in  the  grey  autumn  plu- 
mage. The  knot  bred  in  the  vicinity  of  Discovery  Bay ;  but 


No.  III.  ORNITHOLOGY.  213 

no  eggs  were  found  there,  although  the  young  were  obtained 
in  all  stages  of  plumage. 

11.  STERNA  MACRURA. — The  Arctic  tern  is  not  uncommon 
in  Smith  Sound,  and  we  found  it  breeding  at  several  localities 
we  visited  on   our  way  north.      On   August   11,   1875,   on 
Norman  Lockyer  Island,  I  noticed  several  pairs,  and  picked 
up  a  bleached  egg,  probably  an  addled  one  of  a  former  season. 
August  21,  we  found  eight  or  ten  pairs  breeding  on  a  small 
islet  off  the  north  end  of  Bellot  Island  (lat.  81°  44'  N.) ;  the 
land  at  this  date  was  covered  with  snow,  and  on  the  islet  it 
lay  about  three  inches  deep.     In  one  nest  I  found  a  newly- 
hatched  tern ;  it  seemed  quite  well  and   lively  in  its  snow 
cradle.     The  parent  birds  had  evidently  thrown  the  snow  out 
of  the  nest  as  it  fell ;  for  it  was  surrounded  by  a  border  of 
snow  marked  by  the  feet  of  the  old  birds,  and  raised  at  least 
two  inches  above  the  general  level.     The  terns  on  this  islet 
were  rather  shy,  none  coming  within  range  until  I  touched 
the  young  one.     There  seemed  to  be  abundance  of  fish  in 
the  pools   between  the  floes,  as  the  old  birds  were  flying 
with  them  in  their  mandibles ;  the  stomach  of  the  female 
which  I  killed  was  empty,  but  that  of  the  nestling  contained 
remains  of  fish.      On    June    16,    1876,  three   Arctic   terns 
appeared  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  winter-quarters  of  the 
'  Alert.'     By  the  end  of  June  pairs  of  these  birds  were  scat- 
tered at  intervals  along  the  coast ;  and  a  nest,  scraped  in  the 
gravel  and  containing  two  eggs,  was  found  June  27  about 
three  miles  north  of  our  winter-quarters.     During  the  first 
week  in  August  we  found  a  pair  of  young  birds  nearly  ready 
to  fly  in  lat.  81°  50'  N. 

12.  PAGOPHILA  EBUHNEA. — The   ivory  gull   was  not  un- 
frequently   observed  in  Smith  Sound,  but  not  beyond  lat. 
82°  20'  N.     I  found  a  pair  nesting  in  a  lofty  and  inacces- 
sible cliff  near  Cape  Hayes  on   August  16,  1875.     On  Sep- 
tember 1  a  single  example  flew  around  the  '  Alert '  when  she 
lay  moored  to  the  ice  in  Lincoln  Bay  (lat.  82°  6'  N.)     On 
August  2,  1876,  I  observed  one  of  this  species  near  Cape 
Union  ;    on   August    12    they  were    common   in   Discovery 


214  APPENDIX.  No.  III. 

Bay,    and    from    there    southward   to   the    north-water    of 
Baffin's  Bay. 

13.  KISSA    TRIDACTYLA.— I    saw  a   few   examples   of  the 
kittiwake   flying   over   the  open   water  in  the   vicinity   of 
Port  Foulke,  July  28,  1875 ;  but  we  did  not  observe  it  to 
the   northward   after   entering   the    ice    of   Smith    Sound ; 
and    in    1876    no    specimen   was   seen   as   the    Expedition 
returned  south  until  the  north-water  of  Baffin's  Bay  was 
reached. 

14.  LARUS  GLAUCUS. — We  did  not  find  the  glaucous  gull 
breeding  north  of  Cape  Sabine ;  but  stray  individuals  were 
observed  as  far  north  as  lat.  82°  34'.     September  1,  1875, 
was  the  latest  date  in  the  autumn  on  which  I  noticed  this 
species ;    and   it  reappeared  in  the   vicinity  of  our  winter- 
quarters  (lat.  82°  27'  N.)  in  the  middle  of  June. 

15.  STERCORARIUS    PARASITICUS. — Buffon's   skua   was   the 
only  one  of  the  genus  met  with  in  Smith  Sound.     It  arrived 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  our  winter-quarters  during  the  first 
week  of  June,  and  in  considerable  numbers.    After  that  date 
it  was  to  be  seen  during  every  hour  of  the  day  quartering 
the  fells  in  search  of  lemmings.     It  lays  its  two  eggs  in  a 
small  hollow  in  the  ground,  and  defends  its  nest  with  the 
utmost  bravery.     On  several  occasions  I  have  struck  the  old 
birds  with  my  gun-barrel  while  warding  off  their  attacks  as  I 
plundered  their  nests.     This  species  can  generally  be  distin- 
guished from  its  near  ally,  8.  crepidatus,  at  every  age,  by 
the  mottled  colour  of  the  tarsus  and  webs  of  the  feet,  which 
in  S.  crepidatus  are  usually  black. 

1 6.  PROCELLARIA  GLACIALIS. — The  fulmar  is  common  in 
the  north-water  of  Baffin's    Bay;  and  individuals  followed 
our  ships  until  we  entered  the  pack  off  Cape  Sabine.     On 
June  26, 1876,  Lieutenant  Parr  and  I,  when  travelling  on  the 
coast  of  G-rinnell  Land   (lat.   82°  30'  N.),  observed  one  of 
these  birds ;  and  a  few  days  later  Lieutenant  Egerton  found 
one  dead  on  the  shore  some  two  miles  further  to  the  north- 
ward.    We  did  not  observe  this  species  again  till  our  return 
to  Baffin's  Bay  in  September  1876. 


No.  III.  ORNITHOLOGY.  215 

17.  URIA   GRYLLE. —  The  black  guillemot  or  dovekie  was 
found  breeding  at  various  spots  along  the  shores  of  Smith 
Sound  and  northward,  notably  at  Washington  Irving  Island, 
Dobbin  Bay,  Cape  Hayes,  and  Bessels  Bay ;  it  does  not,  I 
think,  breed  north   of  Cape   Union.     I    saw  two  or  three 
examples  feeding  in  pools  on  the  floe  as  far  north   as  lat. 
82°  33' ;  but  they  were  evidently  mere  stragglers. 

18.  MERGULUS  ALLE. — The  north-water   of  Baffin's   Bay 
is  the  summer  home  of  countless  numbers  of  little  auks  ; 
they  do  not,  however,  penetrate  in  any  numbers  far  up  Smith 
Sound,  the  most  northern  point  where  I  observed  them  being 
in  Buchanan  Strait  (lat.  79°).     I  do  not  think  that  they 
breed  to  the  north  of  Foulke  Fiord ;  but  the  talus  at  the  base 
of  the  cliffs  which  flank  that  inlet  is  occupied  by  myriads  of 
them  during  the  nesting-season.     On  July  28  we  found  the 
young  just  hatched  ;    in  that  stage   they  are  covered   with 
black  down.     From  the  large  amount  of  bones  and  feathers 
lying  around  the  huts  of  the  Eskimo  village  of  Etah,  it  is 
evident  that  these   birds  contribute  largely  to  the  support 
of  the  Arctic  Highlanders  during  summer. 

19.  ALCA  BRUENNICHII. — I  observed  two  looms  in  August 
as  far  north  as  Buchanan  Strait  (lat.  79°);  but  this  bird  was 
not  seen   again  by  me  until  our  return  southward  in  Sep- 
tember 1876,  after  regaining  navigable  water  south  of  Cape 
Sabine.      The  north-water  of  Baffin's  Bay  is  evidently  the 
limit  of  the  northern  range  of  the  species  in  that  direction  ; 
and  I  doubt  if  there  are  any  breeding-haunts  of  this  species 
north  of  Cape  Alexander. 

20.  COLYMBUS . — On  September  2,  1875,  at  Floeberg 

Beach  (lat.  82°  27'  N.),  a  diver,  I  think  C.  septentrionalis, 
alighted  in  a  pool  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the  ship.     A 
boat  was  instantly  lowered ;  but  the  noise  made  by  pushing 
the  boat  through  the  young  ice  alarmed  the  bird,  which  rose 
and  flew  to  another  pool  half  a  mile  to  the  southward.     I 
tried  to  make  my  way  over  the  floe  towards  the  bird ;  but 
the  ice  was  unsafe,  so  I  had  to  give  up  the  pursuit.     The 
numerous  lakes  and  ponds  in  Grinnell  Land  abound  with  a 


216  APPENDIX.  No.  III. 

species  of  charr  (Salmo  arcturus*  Grunt  her),  which  doubtless 
might  afford  good  living  to  birds  of  this  family. 

21.  HARELDA  GLACIALIS. — We  observed  a  flock  of  long- 
tailed  duck  swimming  in  the  pools  of  water  between  the  floes 
on  September  1,  1875,  near  Floeberg  Beach  (lat.  82°  27'  N.) 
On    September   16    two    were  shot    not  far  from  the   ship. 
During  the  summer  of  1876  a  few  of  these  birds  visited  the 
northern  shores  of  Grinnell  Land ,  we  found  them  in  pairs  on 
lakes  and  ponds,  where  thej  were  evidently  breeding.     From 
the  rapidity  with  which  they  dive  they  are  very  difficult  to 
shoot,  and  when  secured  do  not  repay  the  outlay  in  powder 
and  lead. 

22.  SOMATERIA  MOLLISSIMA. — The  eider-duck  breeds  abun- 
dantly in  the  neighbourhood  of  Port  Foulke,  but  decreased 
in  numbers  as  we  advanced  northwards.    It  became  rare  after 
passing  Cape  Frazer,  the  meeting-place  of  the  Polar  and 
Baffin's  Bay  tides,  but  was  replaced  to  some  extent  by  the 
next  species.     I  did  not  obtain  an  eider  north  of  Cape  Union. 
Dr.  Coppinger  procured  both  eider  and  king-duck  at  Thank 
God  Harbour  (lat.  81°  38'  N.)  in  the  month  of  July,  1876. 

23.  SOMATERIA  SPECTABILTS. — I  did  not  obtain  the  king- 
duck  in  Smith  Sound  during  the  autumn  of  1875 ;  but  in  the 
end  of  June  1876  several  flocks  of  males  and  females,  num- 
bering from  ten  to  twenty  individuals,  were  seen  near  Floeberg 
Beach  (lat.  82°  27'  N.)     Most  of  these  fell  a  prey  to  our 
gunners  ;  but  those  that  escaped  settled  down  to  breed  along 
the  coast,  and  several  nests  were  found  with  fresh  eggs  in 
them  from  the  9th  to  the  middle  of  July. 

24.  BERNICLA  BRENTA. — During   the  first  week  of  June, 
parties  of  brent-geese  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  our  winter- 
quarters  (lat.   82°   27'  N.)     For  some  days   they  continued 
flying   up   and  down  the  coast-line,    evidently  looking  out 
for  places  bare  of  snow  to  feed  on.     They  were  very  wary, 
and  kept  well  out  of  gun-shot  range.     On  June  211  found 
the   first  nest  with  eggs  in  lat.    82°   33'   N. ;  subsequently 
many  were  found.     When  the  young  are  hatched,  the  parent 
birds  and  broods  congregate  on  the  lakes  or  in  open  water 


No.  III.  ORNITHOLOGY.  217 

spaces  near  the  shore  in  large  flocks  ;  by  the  end  of  July 
the  old  birds  were  moulting  and  unable  to  fly,  so  that  they 
were  easily  secured,  and  afforded  most  valuable  change  of 
diet  to  our  sick.  The  flesh  of  this  bird  is  most  excellent. 

The  gander  remains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  nest  while  the 
goose  is  sitting,  and  accompanies  the  young  brood.  In  one 
instance  where  I  killed  a  female  as  she  left  her  nest,  the 
gander  came  hissing  at  me. 


218  APPENDIX.  No.  IV. 


No.   IV. 

ICHTHYOLOGY.* 
BY  ALBERT  GUNTHER,  M.A.,  Ph.  D.,  M.D.,  F.R.S. 

TEN  species  of  fishes  were  collected  between  lat.  78°  and 
83°  N.,  by  the  naturalists  of  the  Arctic  Expedition  of  1875- 
76,  and  submitted  to  me  for  determination. 

1.  COTTUS  QUADRICORNIS   (Z.) — A   young   specimen,  four 
inches  long,  was  found  dead  by  Mr.  Egerton  on  the  beach  of 
Dumbell  Harbour  (lat.  82°  30'  N.)     No  other  salt-water  fish 
is  known  at  present  to  have  been  found  at  a  higher  latitude. 
In  this  young  specimen  the  nuchal  tubercles  are  only  indi- 
cated ;  but  having  compared  it  with  a  specimen  obtained  on 
the  English  coast,  another  from  Lake  Wettern,  and  with  two 
from  Sir  J.  Kichardson's  collection  (the  locality  of  which  is 
not  known,  but  which  most  probably  were  given  to  him  by 
one  of  the  previous  Arctic  explorers),  I  have  no  doubt  as  to 
their  specific  identity.     Dr.  Liitken  has  excluded  this  species 
from  his  list  of  Greenland  fishes  ('Arctic  Manual,'  p.  116). 

2.  ICELTJS    HAMATUS  (Kroyer). — Previously  known  from 
Spitsbergen  and  Greenland,  it  seems  to  be  one  of  the  most 
common  fishes  in  the  latitudes  between  80°  and  82°.     Two 
specimens  were   obtained   at    Discovery  Bay  (81°  44'  N.), 
several  at  Franklin  Pierce  Bay  (in  fifteen  fathoms),  and  seven 
at  Cape  Napoleon.     All  these  specimens  were  caught  in  the 
month  of  August,  and  were  ready  for  spawning. 

3.  TRIGLOPS   PINGELII   (Reinfi.} — No   specimens  of  this 
fish  were  previously  in  the  national  collection.     It  appears  to 

1  Abridged  from  <Proc.  Zool.  Soc.,'  1877,  pp.  293-295,  475-476. 


No.  IV.  ICHTHYOLOGY.  219 

be  much  scarcer  than  the  preceding.  Externally  the  ventral 
fin  appears  to  be  composed  of  three  rays ;  but  on  dissection 
four  long  rays  and  one  rudimentary  one  are  found.  Obtained 
at  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  August  11,  1875. 

4.  CYCLOPTERUS  SPINOSUS  (Mull.) — Previously  known  from 
Iceland,  Spitsbergen,  and  Greenland.  Two  specimens  from 
Cape  Napoleon,  and  four  from  Franklin  Pierce  Bay  are  all 
young,  and  interesting  as  showing  the  irregular  manner  in 
which  the  conical  spines  are  developed.  The  largest  of  these 
young  specimens  is  not  quite  two  inches  long ;  and  the 
tubercles  are  much  less  numerous  than  in  an  adult  specimen ; 
it  is  rough,  and  covered  with  minute  spines.  In  a  specimen 
fifteen  lines  long,  only  traces  of  the  tubercles  are  visible  on 
the  skin.  A  specimen  twelve  lines  long  is  quite  naked,  whilst 
another  of  the  same  size  has  the  tubercles  as  much  developed 
as  the  largest,  or  even  more  so.  The  spines  of  the  first  dorsal 
fin  are  sometimes  quite  distinct,  sometimes  enveloped  in 
loose  skin. 


CYCLOPTERUS    SPINOSTJS. 


5.  LIPARIS  FABRICII   (Kroyer). — Previously  known    from 
Spitsbergen,  Greenland,  Port  Leopold.     Is  represented  in  the 
present  collection  by  a  specimen  from  Discovery  Bay,  and 
others  from 'Franklin  Pierce  Bay. 

6.  GYMNELIS  VIRIDIS  (Fabr.) — One  specimen  obtained  in 
lat.  81°  52'  N. ;  is  only  five  inches  long,  and  belongs  to  a 
highly-coloured  variety,  being  brown  with  numerous  white 
spots,  and  having  four  black  ocelli  on  the  dorsal  fin.    Another 
specimen  was  collected  in  Franklin  Pierce  Bay. 

7.  GTADUS   FABRICII  (Rich.)— Widely  distributed    in   the 


220  APPENDIX.  No.  IV. 

Arctic  regions  of  the  western  hemisphere.     Two  specimens 
obtained  off  Cape  Hayes,  Grinnell  Land. 

8.  SALMO  ARCTURUS  (sp.  n.) — The  northernmost  salmo- 
noid  known  at  present.  This  charr  cannot  be  identified 
with  any  of  the  other  races  of  this  division  of  Salmo ; 
it  comes  nearest  to  the  charr  of  Killin  (Inverness-shire), 
but  differs  from  it  in  having  a  more  slender  body,  rather 
smaller  scales,  shorter  fins,  and  a  less  number  of  pyloric 
appendages. 

Body  rather  elongate ;  head  small,  two-ninths  or  nearly 
one-fifth  of  the  total  length  (without  caudal),  scarcely  more 
than  one-half  of  the  distance  between  the  snout  and  the 
vertical  from  the  origin  of  the  dorsal  fin.  The  snout  is, 
remarkably  obtuse  ;  the  maxillary  varies  in  length  :  in  males 
of  the  same  size  it  sometimes  reaches  scarcely  to,  sometimes 
a  little  behind,  the  hind  margin  of  the  orbit ;  in  the  female 
it  is  smaller  and  shorter.  Teeth  small ;  vomerine  teeth 
limited  to  the  anterior  extremity  of  the  bone ;  a  band  of 
villiform  teeth  along  the  middle  of  the  hyoid  bone.  Prseoper- 
culum  with  a  distinct  lower  limb  ;  suboperculum  about  twice 
as  long  as  deep ;  pectoral  but  little  shorter  than  the  head, 
exceeding  in  length  one-half  of  the  distance  of  its  root  from 
the  ventral.  Ventral  terminating  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  vent.  D.  13  ;  the  longest  ray  as  long  as  the  head 
(without  snout).  A.  12.  Caudal  moderately  excised,  its 
middle  rays  half  the  length  of  the  outer  ones.  Scales  minute. 
Branchiostegals  11. 

Upper  parts  of  a  dull  brownish  green,  passing  on  the  sides 
into  the  silvery  or  reddish  colour  of  the  lower  parts.  Dorsal 
and  caudal  of  the  colour  of  the  back  ;  paired  fins  and  anal 
yellowish.  No  dots  or  ocelli.  Young  with  numerous  parr- 
marks. 

The  number  of  pyloric  appendages  were  found  to  vary ; 
one  male  has  31,  another  35,  a  third  44,  and  a  female  42. 

Several  specimens  were  obtained  in  Victoria  Lake  (lat. 
82°  34'  N.),  and  in  freshwater  lakes  near  Floeberg  Beach  (lat. 
82°  28'  N.)  Dr.  E.  Moss  kindly  communicated  to  me  a 


No.  IV.  ICHTHYOLOGY.  221 

coloured  sketch  of  a  specimen  caught  in  North-Ravine  Lake. 
Specimens  twelve  inches  in  length  are  full-grown  ;  no  larger 
ones  were  found.  The  ovaries  and  testicles  in  specimens 
caught  in  the  month  of  August  show  the  commencement  of 
seasonal  development. 

9.  SALMO  ALIPES  (Rich.) — Of  this  species  two  examples 
were  obtained,  about  fifteen  inches  long ;  it  is  a  well-marked 
species  of  charr,  characterised  by  the  deep  radiating  and  con- 
centric striation  of  the  gill-covers.     The  typical  specimens 
were  obtained  in  Boothia  Felix ;  so  that  this  charr  has  an 
unusally   wide    range.     Colour    silvery,    with    scarcely    any 
pinkish  tinge.     Caec.  pyl.  41.     Obtained  from  a  lake  in  the 
vicinity  of  Discovery  Bay  (lat.  81°  44'  N.) 

10.  SALMO  KARESII  (n.  sp.) — The  body  much  elongate, 
its  greatest  depth  being  one-fifth,  or  even  one-sixth,  of  the 
total   length,  without  caudal.     The   length  of  the   head  is 
one-fourth    or  two-ninths    of  the  same    length,    and    nearly 
one-half  of  the  distance  between  the  snout  and  the  vertical 
from  the  origin  of  the  dorsal  fin.     The  snout  is  obtuse,  the 
forehead  flat ;  and  the  maxillary  extends  in  the  male  to  the 
vertical  from  the  hind  margin  of  the  orbit,  but  in  the  female 
it  is  somewhat  shorter.     Teeth  very  small,  those  of  the  vomer 
limited  to  the  anterior  extremity  of  the  bone,  a  band  of  villi- 
form  teeth  along  the  middle  of  the  hyoid.     Praeoperculuin 
with  the  angle  much  rounded,  and  without  a  distinct  lower 
limb ;  suboperculum  more  than  twice  as  long  as  deep.     The 
gill-cover  shows  scarcely  a  trace  of  the  radiating  and  concen- 
tric striae  by  which  Salmo  nitidus  is  characterised.     Pectoral 
shorter  than,  or  equal  in  length  to,  the  head  without  snout ; 
and  at  least  one-half,  or  more  than  one-half,  of  the  distance 
of  its  root  from  the  ventral.     Ventral  fins  terminating  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  vent.     D.  13  ;  the  largest  ray 
scarcely  longer  than  the  distance  of  the  eye  from  the  end  of 
the  operculum.     A.   11.     Caudal  deeply  excised,  its  middle 
rays  not  quite  half  as  long  as  the  outer  ones.     Scales  minute. 
Branchiostegals  11. 

Pyloric  appendages  42.     Vertebrae  65. 


222  APPENDIX.  No.  IV. 

Upper  parts  light  greenish  olive,  passing  into  deep  reddish- 
pink  on  the  sides.  Lower  part  of  a  silvery  colour.  Sides 
with  very  small  red  spots.  Dorsal  and  upper  part  of  the 
caudal  of  the  colour  of  the  back.  Paired  fins  and  anal 
and  lower  part  of  caudal  deep  red,  with  yellowish-white 
margins. 

Several  specimens  were  obtained  in  a  freshwater  lake  near 
to  the  winter-quarters  of  the  '  Discovery,'  in  a  depth  of  from 
ten  to  fifteen  feet. 

This  is  a  small  species,  the  largest  example  measuring 
ten  inches,  all  the  others,  males  and  females,  being  only  eight 
inches  long.  Yet  the  sexual  organs  were  fully  developed,  and 
the  ova  ready  for  exclusion. 

By  associating  the  name  of  Sir  George  Nares  with  one  of 
the  novelties  brought  home  by  the  Arctic  Expedition,  I  pay 
only  a  small  tribute  of  the  esteem  in  which  all  zoologists 
hold  the  leader  of  the  '  Challenger  '  and  Arctic  Expeditions. 


No.  V.  MOLLUSCA.  223 


No.   V. 

MOLLUSCA.1 

BY  EDGAR  A.  SMITH,   F.L.S.,   F.Z.S., 

Zoological  Department,  British  Museum. 

THE  chief  interest  attaching  to  the  mollusca  obtained  during 
the  Arctic  Expedition  arises  from  the  collections  being  made 
at  localities  further  north  than  any  which  had  been  previously 
investigated. 

To  save  repetition,  the  exact  position  of  the  principal 
stations  at  which  mollusca  were  dredged  is  here  appended : — 

Dumbell  Harbour,  82°  30'  N.  lat. 

Discovery  Bay,  81°  41'  N.  lat. 

Cape  Frazer,  79°  44'  N.  lat. 

Dobbin  Bay,  Grrinnell  Land,  79°  40'  N.  lat. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  79°  25'  N.  lat. 

I.  PTEROPODA. 

Clione  borealis,  Pallas. 

Hab.  Abundant  in  Hartstene  Bay  (Feilden). 
Captain  PWlden  informs  me  that  this  species  was  not 
observed  in  Smith  Sound  north  of  Cape  Sabine. 

Limacina  arctica,  Fabricius. 
Hab.  Abundant  in  Hartstene  Bay  (Feilden). 

1  Abridged  from  <  Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.,'  1877,  pp.  131-146. 


224 


APPENDIX. 


No.  V. 


II.   GASTROPODA. 

Pleurotoma  (Bela)  violacea,  Mighels  and  Adams. 

Hab.  Discovery  Bay,  5  fathoms  (Feilden). 

Only  one  rather  elongated  specimen  was  obtained. 

Fusus  (Sipho)  tortuosus  ?  Eeeve. 

Hab.  Shore   of   Hayes    Sound,    79°   N.   lat.    (Feilden)', 
Dobbin  Bay  30,  fms.  (Hart). 

Buccinum  hydrophanum,  Hancock. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay  (Feilden  and  'Hart) ;  Dobbin 
Bay,  30  fms.  (Hart). 

Buccinum  Belcheri,  var.  Eeeve. 

Hab.  Dobbin  Bay,  30  fms.  (Hart). 

Shell  ovately  conical,  very  thin,  purplish  brown,  with  a 
few  paler  streaks  here  and  there ;  whorls  5-J,  very  convex, 
spirally  distinctly  ridged,  the  ridges  being 
alternately  longer,  longitudinally  rather 
coarsely  striated  by  the  lines  of  growth, 
and  very  obsoletely  plicated  ;  mouth  ir- 
regularly ovate,  large,  occupying  more 
than  half  the  entire  length  of  the  shell, 
of  the  same  colour  as  the  exterior,  termi- 
nating inferiorly  in  a  short,  slightly  re- 
curved canal ;  columella  oblique,  scarcely 
arcuated,  smooth,  shining,  whitish  to- 
/  /i  A/IAAA  K  .  wards  the  base ;  epidermis  thin,  oliva- 
ceous, and  laminated  slightly  on  the 
principal  distinct  incremental  lines  or 
raised  lirulse  ;  operculum  circularly  ovate, 

Length  33  millims.,  diam.  17  ;  aperture  19  millims.  long 
and  11  wide. 


BUCCINUM    BELCHERI. 


No.  V.  MOLLUSOA.  225 

The  dentition  of  the  animal  of  this  species  closely 
resembles  that  of  Buccinum  groenlandicum  and  Neptunea 
antiqua,  as  represented  by  Troschel's  figures  in  his  work 
6  Das  Grebiss  der  Schnecken,'  vol.  ii.  pi.  vi. 

The  above  description  was  already  prepared  under  the 
supposition  that  the  specimen  before  me  was  distinct  from 
B.  Belcheri,  when,  through  the  kindness  of  Dr.  Gwyn 
Jeffreys,  I  was  enabled  to  compare  it  with  the  type  of  that 
species.  It  is  less  elongated,  has  a  rather  shorter  spire ; 
and  the  body-whorl  is  more  ventricose.  The  columella  also 
is  less  arcuate  and  more  oblique,  and  the  spiral  ridges  and 
lines  of  growth  are  more  pronounced.  The  type  does  not 
display  such  regularity  in  the  alternation  of  large  and  small 
transverse  ridges  as  the  variety.  A  specimen  of  this  species 
from  Finmark,  in  the  collection  of  Mr.  Jeffreys,  very  closely 
resembles  the  shell  from  Dobbin  Bay. 

Buccinum  sericatum,  Hancock. 

Hah.  Dobbin  Bay,  30  fms.  (Hart). 

The  radula  of  this  species,  which  perhaps  is  only  a  variety 
of  B.  Grcenlandicum,  is  remarkable  for  the  unequal  dentition 
of  the  side  plates,  one  of  which  is  a  trifle  the  narrower,  and 
is  furnished  with  only  two  fangs :  they  are 
subequal  in  length;  but  the  inner  one  is 
slightly  the  stouter.  The  other  lateral  plate 
has  three  teeth,  of  which  the  outermost  is 
longest,  the  median  smallest,  and  at  the  base 

.,  f.  mi  i.  RADULA    OF   BUC- 

joms  the   inner  fang.      The   median    plate   CINUM  SERICATUM 
bears  four  small  conical  denticles. 

The  only  example  of  this  species  is  a  young  shell.  It 
agrees  in  all  respects  with  Hancock's  admirable  description, 
except  that  the  cilia  of  the  epidermis  are  apparently  closer 
together  than  in  the  type,  in  which  they  are  said  to  be  '  not 
much  crowded,'  whilst  in  the  specimen  before  me  there  are 
about  three  in  the  space  of  a  millimetre.  The  surface  of  the 
shell  beneath  the  remarkable  epidermis  is  very  curiously 

VOL.   II.  Q 


226  APPENDIX.  No.  V. 

wrinkly  striated.  The  operculum  is  roundish,  greenish  yellow 
on  the  inner  side,  and  dirty  yellow  exteriorly;  and  the  nucleus 
is  rather  less  central  than  in  B.  Belcheri. 

Trichotropis  tennis,  sp.  nov. 

Shell  very  thin,  light,  semi-transparent,  glossy  white, 
globosely  turbinate,  widely  and  openly  umbilicated,  clothed 
with  a  dirty-yellowish  epidermis,  produced  on  the  keels  of 
the  whorls  into  close-set,  very  short,  bristle-like  filaments, 
and  rather  coarsely  obliquely  striated,  or  rather  lamellated, 
marking  periods  of  growth ;  whorls 
six,  the  two  apical  ones  smooth  and 
rounded,  the  three  following  beauti- 
fully sculptured  with  raised  oblique 
lines  of  growth  and  minute  spiral 
striae,  keeled  and  angulated  a  trifle 
above  the  middle,  convexly  sloping 
above  the  keel  and  nearly  straight 
beneath  it;  last  whorl  large,  encir- 

TRICHOTROPIS   TENUIS.  '  .  £ 

cled  with  three  taint  keels,  two  near 

the  middle  and  the  third  at  the  base,  bordering  the  umbili- 
cus ;  aperture  subcircular,  occupying  about  y6T  of  the  entire 
length  of  the  shell,  whitish  within,  streaked  with  irregular, 
curved,  yellowish-olive  stripes ;  the  peristome  is  continuous, 
thin,  with  the  epidermis  produced  beyond  its  extreme  edges ; 
columelJa  white,  arcuate,  with  a  slight  shallow  channel  at  its 
base. 

Greatest  length  33  millims.,  diam.  of  last  whorl  above 
the  aperture  18,  greatest  diam.  30;  aperture  18J  long,  nearly 
17  wide. 

Hob.  Off  Cape  Louis  Napoleon,  Grinnell  Land,  79°  38' 
N.  lat.,  in  25  fms.  (Feilden). 

Only  a  single  specimen  of  this  grand  new  Trichotropis 
was  obtained.  It  is  very  different  from  any  hitherto  de- 
scribed, being  remarkable  for  its  circular  aperture,  conical 
spire,  and  extreme  fragility.  The  entire  surface  under  the 


No.  V.  MOLLUSCA.  227 

epidermis  is  beautifully  sculptured  with  oblique  raised  lines 
or  lirulse,  and  minutely  striated  in  a  spiral  direction  between 
them  ;  and  the  raised  keels  are  also  similarly  striated.  The 
central  keel  of  the  last  whorl  is  also  visible  on  the  upper 
ones,  and  is  situated  just  above  the  suture. 

In  the 'Annals  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.'  for  August  1877, 
p.  136,  1  stated  that  the  specimen  upon  which  this  species  is 
founded  had  been  seen  by  Dr.  Jeffreys,  who  considered  it  an 
abnormal  form  of  T.  bicarinata.  Since  then,  in  the  Sep- 
tember part  of  the  same  periodical,  he  has  published  this 
opinion,  observing  that  in  certain  other  species  (Littorina 
litorea  and  Fusus  antiquus)  '  the  same  kind  of  distortion 
is  observable.' 

I  have  again  most  closely  scrutinised  this  shell,  and  still 
/  cannot  trace  the  slightest  irregularity  of  growth^  and 
therefore  I  confidently  adhere  to  my  opinion,  shared  by 
several  conchologists,  that  this  form  is  decidedly  distinct 
from  the  well-known  bicarinata ;  and  it  only  remains  for  me 
to  point  out  its  special  characteristics,  namely,  the  vast 
differences  of  form  and  epidermis,  the  open  umbilicus,  the 
slight  prominence  of  the  keels  and  the  subcircular  aperture. 

Trichotropis  borealis,  Broderip  and  Sowerby. 

Hob.  Discovery  Bay,  5  fms.  ;  Dumbell  Harbour 
(Feilden). 

The  specimens  from  the  abpve  localities  agree  precisely 
in  shape  and  sculpture  with  that  form  of  this  species  which 
was  described  by  Hinds  from  shells  found  at  Sitka,  under  the 
name  of  T.  inermis. 

Velutina  (Morvillia)  zonata,  var.  grandis. 

Hob.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay  (Hart). 

The  only  specimen  was  taken  out  of  the  stomach  of  Phoca 
barbata9  and  is  in  very  bad  condition.  This  variety  is  so 
very  much  larger  than  the  ordinary  size  of  the  species  that  it 
almost  appears  that  it  must  be  distinct.  It  measures  21 


228  APPENDIX.  No.  V. 

milliras.  in  length,  being  about  double  that  of  Gould's  figure. 
Hancock  mentions  one  from  the  west  coast  of  Davis  Strait, 
which  was  about  five-eighths  of  an  inch  (or  16  millims.)  long. 

Natica  affinis,  Gmelin. 

Hob.  Dobbin  Bay,  30  fms.,  bottom  stones  and  mud 
(Hart,  August,  1876). 

Only  a  single  small  specimen  was  obtained,  which  is  re- 
markable for  having  the  spire  rather  more  elevated  than 
usual. 

Trochus  (Margarita)  umbilicalis,  Broderip  and  Sowerby. 

Hob.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  15  fms.;  Mushroom  Point, 
82°  29'  N.  (Feilden). 

This  species  is  also  reported  by  Jeffreys,  'Annals  and 
Mag.  Nat.  Hist.'  1877,  March,  p.  237,  from  'Discovery  Bay, 
and  fossil  in  Cane  Valley,'  from  specimens  collected  by 
Captain  Feilden  during  the  expedition. 

Trochus  (Margarita)  glauca,  Moller. 

Hob.  With  the  preceding  species  at  Franklin  Pierce  Bay 
(Feilden). 

Trochus  (Margarita)  helicinus,  Fabricius. 
Hob.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay  (Feilden). 

Trochus  (Margarita),  sp.  jun. 

Hob.  Cape  Frazer  (Feilden). 

This  shell  may  be  but  a  young  specimen  of  Margarita 
striata  of  Broderip  and  Sowerby ;  but  it  differs  from  typical 
examples  in  the  spire  being  comparatively  small  in  propor- 
tion to  the  body-whorl,  the  base  of  which  is  almost  destitute 
of  revolving  striae  ;  the  umbilicus  is  larger  and  not  bordered 
by  a  thickish  ridge  as  is  usually  the  case  in  this  species. 


No.  V.  MOLLUSCA.  229 

Chiton  (Tonicia)  marmoreus,  Fabricius. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  15  fms.,  temperature  29°'50 
(Hart  and  Feilden). 

Lepeta  cceca,  0.  F.  Miiller. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  15  fms.;  Cape  Frazer,  30 
fms. ;  and  Richardson  Bay,  70  fms.  (Feilden). 

The  animal  of  this  species  (var.  concentrica)  has  been 
briefly  described  by  Middenborff,  1.  c.  p.  186,  and  also  by  Dr. 
Jeffreys  in  the  '  Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.'  1877,  March,  p. 
231. 

Bulla  (Cylichna)  alba,  Brown. 
Hab.  Discovery  Bay,  5  fms.  (Feilden). 

Bulla  (Cylichna)  striata,  Brown. 
Hab.  Found  with  the  preceding  species  (Feilden). 

Onchidiopsis  grcenlandica,  Bergh. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fms.,  stony  bottom 
(Hart). 

It  is  interesting  to  find  this  curious  species,  which  was 
described  by  Bergh  from  South  Greenland  specimens,  rang- 
ing so  far  north  as  the  above  locality. 

Eolis  salmonacea,  Couthouy. 

Hab.  Discovery  Bay  (Feilden). 

A  single  small  specimen  of  this  very  pretty  animal  was 
found  at  the  above  spot.  It  is  remarkable  how  easily  the 
dorsal  branchiae  fall  off  with  the  slightest  touch. 

III.  CONCHIFERA. 

Tellina  (Macoma)  tenera,  Leach. 
Hab.  Discovery  Bay,  5  fms.  (Feilden). 


230  APPENDIX.  No.  V. 

Lyonsia  arenosa,  Moller. 
Hob.  Discovery  Bay,  5  fms.  (Feilderi). 

Cardium  islandicum.  Linn. 
Hob.  Dobbin  Bay,  30  fms.  (Hart). 

Axinus  Gouldii?     Philippi. 

Hob.  Discovery  Bay  5^  fms.  (Feilden). 

The  shells  associated  with  this  species  differ  somewhat 
from  the  description  given  by  Grould  in  having,  besides  '  the 
widened  groove,'  a  lanceolate  depression  or  posterior  lunule 
which  extends  from  the  umbones  down  the  dorsal  slope.  It 
is  also  very  similar  to  A.  croulinensis,  Jeffreys. 

Nucula  inflata,  Hancock. 
Hob.  Discovery  Bay,  5J  fms.  (Feilden). 

Leda  pernula,  Miiller. 
Hob.  Discovery  Bay,  5-^  fms.  (Feilden). 

Leda  minuta,  var.,  Fabricius. 

Hob.  Eichardson  Bay,  80°  2'  N.  lat.,  70  fms.  (Feilden). 
The  specimens  from  the  above  locality  have  the  transverse 
costse  rather  finer  than  is  usual. 

Leda  truncata.  Brown. 

/ 

Hah.  Discovery  Bay,  5  fms.  (Feilden). 
In  a  young  example  of  this  species  the  posterior  beak  is 
scarcely  observable. 

Astarte  semisulcata^  Leach. 

Hob.  Dumbell  Harbour  (Feilden) ;  Discovery  Bay,  5 
fms.  (Feilden  and  Hart). 


No.  V.  MOLLUSCA.  231 

The  blackness  of  the  epidermis  in  A.  lactea  is  due,  I 
think,  to  the  specimens  having  been  collected  when  dead  ; 
for  all  the  shells  with  this  kind  of  dark  epidermis  are  old  and 
worn,  and  evidently  have  been  untenanted  by  the  living  animal 
for  some  time. 

Astarte  striata,  Leach. 
Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  1 5  fms.  (Feilden  and  Hart). 

Astarte  fabula,  Eeeve. 

Hab.  Dumbell  Harbour  and  Discovery  Bay  (Feilden). 

This  species  may  be  recognised  by  the  peculiar  ribbing 
near  the  umbones.  In  this  region  the  ribs  are  more  strongly 
developed  than  on  the  rest  of  the  surface  of  the  valve,  and 
are  not  produced  quite  to  the  margins,  so  that  in  looking  at 
the  shell  with  the  umbones  towards  the  eye  the  dorsal  areas 
appear  comparatively  smooth. 

?  Astarte  Warehami,  Hancock. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  1 3-1 5  fms.,  bottom  stony 
(Hart);  Eichardson  Bay,  80°  2'  N.  lat.,  70  fms.  (Feilden). 

I  do  not  feel  quite  sure  of  tha  accuracy  of  the  identifica- 
tion of  the  specimens  before  me.  They  differ  slightly  in  form 
from  Hancock's  figure,  being  less  elliptical  by  reason  of  the 
anterior  end  being  less  produced  ;  but  with  regard  to  the  ribs 
and  epidermis  they  agree  exactly  with  the  author's  excellent 
description — the  former  being  'fine,  close,  regular,'  and  the 
latter  pale  greenish  yellow.  These  shells,  in  shape,  can  cer- 
tainly be  matched  with  some  specimens  of  A.  striata,  and  do 
not  appear  to  vary  in  any  thing  except  the  difference  of 
colour  of  the  epidermis,  which  in  the  latter  species  is  brown 
or  olive-brown.  This  species  is  considered  the  same  as 
A.  fabula  by  Jeffreys. 


232  APPENDIX.  No.  V. 


My  a  truncata,  Linn. 

Hob.  Discovery  Bay,  5  and  25  fms.  (Hart  and  Feilden) ; 
Dobbin  Bay,  30  fms.  (Hart). 

All  the  specimens  from  these  localities  have  the  posterior 
marginal  slopes  directed  inwards  or  towards  the  base  of  the 
shell,  which  peculiarity  is  characteristic  of  the  variety  ud- 
devalensis.  One  shell  is  remarkable  on  account  of  the 
abruptness  of  the  truncation  and  its  narrowness,  the  width 
being  only  6  millims.  more  than  the  length  (30  millims.) 

Saxicava  arctica,  Linn. 

Hob.  Discovery  Bay,  5  fms.  (Feilden) ;  Franklin  Pierce 
Bay  (Hart  and  Feilden) ;  Dobbin  Bay,  30  fms.  (Hart). 

Some  specimens  from  Franklin  Pierce  Bay  are  remarkable 
on  account  of  their  great  solidity,  the  depth  and  distinctness 
of  the  muscular  scars,  and  the  purplish  brown  colour  which 
stains  both  the  inside  and  exterior  of  the  valves. 

Modiolaria  Icevigata,  Gray. 

Hob.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  15  fms.  (Feilden  and  Hart). 

This  species  is  considered  by  some  authors  a  variety  of  the 
British  M.  discors.  There  are,  however,  certain  differences 
in  form,  colour,  and  sculpture  which  appear  to  me  sufficient 
to  distinguish  the  two  species.  The  present  is  a  larger 
species,  transversely  more  elongate  and  proportionally  nar- 
rower, the  difference  in  width  of  the  anterior  and  posterior 
ends  being  less  marked.  The  striae  on  the  hinder  area,  in 
adult  specimens,  are  distinct  only  towards  the  umbones,  and 
gradually  become  obsolete  towards  the  margin  of  the  valves, 
which,  on  this  account,  are  smooth  and  not  denticulated 
within  as  in  discors.  The  epidermis  of  Icevigata  is  brown  on 
the  greater  portion  of  the  shell,  becoming  pale  olive  or 
brownish  green  towards  the  umbones. 


No.  V.  MOLLUSC  A.  233 

Pecten  (Pseudamusium)  grcenlandicus,  Sowerby. 

Hab.  Off  Cape  Louis  Napoleon,  25  fms. ;  Hayes  Point, 
35  fms.  (Feilden) ;  Discovery  Bay,  5  J  fms.  (Feilden  and 
Hart). 

IV.   BKACHIOPODA. 

Ehynconella  psittacea,  Chemnitz. 

Hab.  'Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  15  fms.;  Cape  Frazer,  80 
fms. ;  Cape  Napoleon,  25  fms.'  (Feilden). 


234  APPENDIX.  No.  VI. 


No.  VI. 

INSECTA  AND  ARACHNIDA. 
BY  ROBERT  MCLACHLAN,  F.R.S.,  F.L.S.  &c. 

WITH  the  consent  of  the  Council  of  the  Royal  Society,  all  the 
Arthropoda  (excepting  the  Crustacea)  were  placed  in  my 
hands  for  working  out.  These  were  principally  collected  by 
Captain  H.  W.  Feilden,  the  Naturalist  of  the  'Alert;'  but  in- 
teresting forms  also  resulted  from  the  researches  of  Mr.  Hart, 
who  occupied  a  similar  position  on  board  the  '  Discovery.'  A 
detailed  Report  on  these  collections  was  read  by  me  at 
the  meeting  of  the  Linnaean  Society  on  December  15,  1877. 
In  that  Report  I  made  some  justly  merited  eulogistic  re- 
marks on  the  entomological  labours  of  the  naturalists.  The 
materials  brought  home  from  between  the  parallels  of  78° 
and  83°  N.  latitude  showed  quite  unexpected,  and  in  some 
respects  astonishing,  results. 

In  all  there  are  about  45  species  of  true  Insecta,  and 
1 6  of  Arachnida.  Of  the  former  5  pertain  to  Hymenoptera, 
1  to  Coleoptera,  13  to  Lepidoptera,  15  to  Diptera,  1  to 
Hemiptera,  7  to  Mallophaga,  and  3  to  Collembola.  Of  the 
Arachnida  6  are  true  spiders,  and  about  10  are  mites. 

In  this  Report  I  was  assisted  by  Baron  von  Osten-Sacken, 
who  examined  the  Diptera,  by  the  Rev.  0.  Pickard  Cam- 
bridge, who  worked  out  the  spiders,  and  by  Mr.  Andrew 
Murray,  who  attended  to  the  mites. 

I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  the  most  valuable 
of  all  the  zoological  collections  are  those  belonging  to  the 


No.  VI.  INSECTA.  235 

entomological  section,  because  these  latter  prove  the  exist- 
ence of  a  comparatively  rich  insect  fauna,  and  even  of  several 
species  of  showy  butterflies,  in  very  high  latitudes. 

INSECTA. 
HYMENOPTERA. 

JBombus  balteatus,  Daldborn. 

„      polaris,  Curtis. 

Ichneumon  erythromelas,  McLachlan,  n.  sp. 
Cryptus  arcticus,  Schiodte  ? 
Microgaster  sp.  ?  (parasitic  on  Dasychira  ;  cocoons  only). 

The  Hymenoptera  comprise  two  species  of  humble-bees 
(Bombi\  and  three  parasitic  forms  that  no  doubt  infest  the 
Iarva3  of  Lepidoptera.  The  bees  frequented  the  flowers  of  a 
Pedicularis,  and  may  perhaps  be  instrumental  in  effecting 
the  fertilisation  of  that  plant. 

COLEOPTEEA. 

Quedius  fulgidus,  Erichson. 

The  only  species  of  Coleoptera  is  represented  by  one 
example  of  the  brachelytrous  Quedius  fulgidus  from  Dis- 
covery Bay,  a  very  widely  distributed  insect, .  common  in 
Britain.  The  paucity  of  insects  of  this  order  is  inexplicable. 

LEPIDOPTERA. 

Colias  Hecla,  Lef.,  var.  glacialis,  McLach. 
Argynnis  polaris,  Boisd. 

„       Chariclea,  Schneider  (several  forms). 
Chrysophanus  phlosas,  L.,  var.  Fettdeni,  McLach. 
Lyctena  Aquilo,  Boisd. 
Dasychira  grcenlandica,  Wocke. 
Mamestra  (?)  Fettdeni,  McLach.,  n.  sp. 
Plusia  parilu,  Hiibn. 
Psycophora  Sabini,  Kirby. 
Scoparia  gelida,  McLach.,  n.  sp. 
Penthina  sp.  ? 
Mixodia  sp.  ? 

?  (Fain.  Tortricidte,  but  utterly  worn). 


236  APPENDIX.  No.  VI. 

The  Lepidoptera  form  the  most  remarkable  feature.  Five 
of  them  (included  in  nearly  40  examples)  are  butterflies  of 
genera  such  as  one  might  expect  to  meet  with  on  a  summer- 
day's  walk  in  England.  One  of  these  latter  is  a  variety  of 
Colias  Heda,  a  brightly  coloured  '  clouded  yellow,'  the  typical 
form  of  which  is  a  known  boreal  insect,  but  which  neverthe- 
less would  hardly  have  been  expected  from  so  far  north. 
There  are  two  species  of  Argynnis  ('  Fritillaries ') :  A.  polaris 
(of  which  two  examples  were  also  found  at  '  Polaris  '  Bay  by 
the  naturalist  of  the  American  expedition,  and  were  the  first 
butterflies  brought  from  extreme  high  latitudes),  and  A. 
Charidea,  the  numerous  examples  of  the  latter  running  into 
endless  varieties,  so  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  say  if  all 
really  pertain  to  this  species.  There  are  three  examples  of  a 
pretty  little  Chrysophanus  ('  copper '),  which  appears  to  be 
a  rather  striking  form  (Feildeni)  of  our  familiar  C.  phlceas. 
Also  one  example  of  Lyccena  Aquilo  (a  '  blue '),  a  known 
Arctic  insect,  which  is  perhaps  scarcely  more  than  a  form  of 
L.  orbitulus  of  the  Alps  of  Europe.  A  peculiar  smoky-looking 
Bombyx  is  Dasychira  groenlandica,  having  a  large  hairy 
larva  not  much  unlike  that  of  a  tiger-moth,  but  with  the 
hairs  arranged  in  tufts  on  the  back :  this  larva  was  found 
abundantly  almost  up  to  the  highest  point  reached.  There 
are  two  Noctuce,  one  of  which  appears  to  be  new.  One 
species  of  Geometridce,  described  by  Curtis  in  the  Insecta  of 
Eoss'  voyage  as  Psychophora  Sabini.  A  new  species  of 
Scoparia,  and  three  species  of  Tortri-cidce,  the  latter  single 
examples  not  in  very  good  condition.  Captain  Feilden 
assures  me  that,  in  the  short  summer,  butterflies  are  on  the 
wing  any  time  during  the  twenty-four  hours,  supposing  the 
sun's  face  be  not  obscured.  One  month  in  each  year  is  the 
longest  period  in  which  they  can  appear  in  the  perfect  state,  and 
six  weeks  is  the  period  in  each  year  in  which  phytophagous 
larvae  can  feed ;  so  it  appears  probable  that  more  than  one 
season  is  necessary,  in  most  cases,  for  their  full  development, 
and  this  may  partially  account  for  the  great  variability  often 
exhibited  in  Arctic  insects. 


No.  VI.  TNSECTA.  237 

DlPTERA. 


j  Zett. 

Chironomus  polaris,  Kirby  (and  about  three  other  species). 
Sciara  sp.  ? 

Trichocera  regelationis,  L. 
Tipula  arctica,  Curtis. 

Tacliina  hirta,  Curtis  ?  (and  about  two  others). 
Pyrellia  cadaverina,  L. 
Anthomyia  sp.  ? 
Scatophaga  sp.  ? 

Among  the  Diptera  there  is  nothing  of  any  special  im- 
portance. The  most  striking  is  a  'daddy-long-legs  '  (Tipula 
arctica),  well  known  as  an  Arctic  species.  Of  the  others 
there  are  Culicidce  (gnats),  Trichocera  ('  winter-gnat,'  but 
appearing  there  after  midsummer),  Chironomi  (plume  gnats), 
and  familiar-looking  flies  which  appeared  when  offal  was 
thrown  away,  or  the  carcase  of  an  animal  lay  on  the  ground. 

HEMIPTERA  (ANOPLURA). 
Hematopinus  trichechi,  Boheman. 

The  only  so-called  Hemipterous  insect  is  a  louse  (Hema- 
topinus trichechi)  that  infests  the  walrus  ;  found  in  the 
axillae  and  other  parts  where  the  skin  is  soft.  This  was 
originally  described  from  Spitsbergen. 

MALLOPHAGA. 

Docoplwrus  ceUebrachys,  Nitzsch  (and  two  others). 
Nirmus  cmgulatuSj  Burm. 

„      ph&onotus,  Nitzsch. 
Colpocephalumj  sp.  ? 
Menopon  gonophaum,  Burm.  var.  ? 

The  Mallophaga  (bird-lice)  are  rather  numerous  in 
individuals,  some  of  them  probably  new  species,  others  already 
familiar.  These  of  course  are  carried  hither  and  thither  by 
their  hosts. 


238  APPENDIX.  No.  VI. 


COLLEMBOLA. 

Isotoma  JBessellsii,  Packard  ? 
Podura  hyperborea,  Boheman  ? 
Lipura  sp.  ? 

Of  the  Collembola  two  are  familiar-looking  species,  often 
found  on  the  surface  of  the  snow  (as  in  the  Alps,  &c.),  and, 
from  their  habits  of  springing  in  short  leaps,  known  as  snow- 
fleas. 

ARACHNIDA. 
ARANEIDEA. 

Tegenaria  detestabilis,  Cambridge,  n.  sp. 
Erigone  psycrophila,  Thorell. 

„      provocans,  Cambridge;  n.  sp. 

„      vexatrixj  Cambridge,  n.  sp. 
Lycosa  glacialis,  Thorell. 
Tarantula  exasperans,  Cambridge,  n.  sp. 

There  appeared  to  be  several  new  forms  among  the  spiders, 
whereas  others  were  already  known. 

ACAKIDEA. 

Bdella,  two  or  three  species. 

Srirus,  one  species. 

Hydrachna,  probably  two  species. 

Eylais,  one  species. 

Oribata,  probably  two  species. 

Damans,  one  species. 

Dermaleichus,  one  species. 

The  Acari  (or  mites)  present  representatives  of  almost 
all  the  families,  including  the  water-mites  and  the  peculiar 
group  parasitic  upon  birds. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  only  about  80  species  of 
insects  have  been  observed  in  Greenland,  although  nearly  a 
100  years  ago  the  fauna  of  the  lower  portion  of  that  country 
was  worked  out  by  the  Danish  missionary  Otto  Fabricius. 
Iceland  has  over  300  species,  Spitsbergen  comparatively  few, 


No.  VI.  mSECTA.  239 

and  no  butterfly  is  known  from  either.  Thus  we  see  that 
Grinnell  Land,  ice-bound  and  ice-covered  as  it  is  for  all  but 
a  short  period  in  each  year,  possesses  an  insect  fauna  that 
cannot  be  styled  otherwise  than  remarkable,  and  which  in 
butterflies  is  probably  richer  than  Greenland. 

The  aspect  of  the  fauna  is  decidedly  what  has  been  termed 
'  Scandinavian,'  but  I  regard  the  representatives  as  the 
remnants  of  a  once  more  extensive  Arctic  fauna,  which  came 
in,  or  was  developed,  after  the  close  of  the  warm  Miocene 
period,  and  culminated  before  the  glacial  epoch ;  and  in  this 
am  disposed  to  agree  with  the  late  Edward  Forbes  in  a  theory 
advanced  in  1846,  in  an  attempt  to  account  for  the  geological 
relations  of  the  fauna  and  flora  of  the  British  Isles,  and 
which  has  been  accepted  by  many  leading  naturalists  and 
geologists.  According  to  this  theory,  the  common  origin  of 
the  existing  Alpine  and  Arctic  flora  and  fauna  is  explained. 
When  the  glacial  period  ceased,  plants  and  animals  began  to 
move  northward ;  some  found  a  congenial  home  on  the  top  of 
high  mountains,  and  established  the  existing  Alpine  flora  and 
fauna,  whereas  others  reached  the  home  of  their  ancestors  in 
the  Arctic  regions.  During  the  long  period  that  has  elapsed 
since  those  times,  scarcely  any  modification  in  Arctic  and 
Alpine  forms  has  taken  place  in  some  cases ;  in  others,  in 
which  the  divergence  is  greater,  evolution  will  account  for  it. 


240  APPENDIX.  No.  VII. 


No.    VII. 
CRUSTACEA, 

BY  EDWARD  J.  MIERS,  F.L.S.,  F.Z.S. 

With  NOTES  ON  THE  COPEPODA,  by  the  Kev.  A.  M.  Norman,  M.A. ;  and 
ON  THE  OSTRACODA,  by  George  Brady,  M.D.,  F.L.S. 

THE  following  account  of  the  Crustacea  is  confined  to  the 
species  collected  between  lat.  78°  and  84°  N. 

The  most  northerly  species  collected  is  Anonyx  nugax, 
one  of  the  commonest  and  most  abundantly  distributed  of 
the  Arctic  Amphipoda.  Of  this  species  several  examples 
were  collected  by  Commander  Markham  and  Lieutenant  Parr, 
at  83°  19'  N.  lat.,  in  May  1876,  at  a  depth  of  72  fathoms. 
The  next  most  northerly  species,  the  well-known  Hippolyte 
aculeata,  was  found  on  the  shore  of  Dumbell  Harbour,  in 
lat.  82  °  30'  N. 

The  following  are  the  principal  stations  at  which  Crustacea 
were  collected  by  the  naturalists  on  board  the  '  Alert '  and 
6  Discovery.' 

Floeberg  Beach,  the  winter  quarters  of  H.M.S.  '  Alert,'  in 
82°  27'  N.  lat. 

Discovery  Bay,  winter  quarters  of  the  '  Discovery,'  in 
81°  41'  N.  lat. 

Cape  Frazer,  Grinnell  Land,  in  79°  44'  N.  lat. 

Dobbin  Bay,  Grinnell  Land,  in  79°  40'  N.  lat. 

Cape  Louis  Napoleon,  in  lat.  79°  38'  N. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  in  79°  29'  N.  lat 

A  small  collection  of  Crustacea  made  by  Dr.  A.  C.  Horner, 
while  on  board  the  yacht  '  Pandora,'  which  has  been  placed 
in  my  hands  for  examination,  contains  only  two  species  col- 
lected north  of  lat.  78°,  i.e.  three  specimens  of  Atylus  cari- 


CRUSTACEA. 


PI.  IL. 


2f 


E  Turck   del. 


Sampson  Low,  Marston.&  C' 


Mintern  Br  o  •  i 


CRUSTACEA 


PI.  IIL 


E.Turck    del. 


LondLon;     Sampson    Low   Marston. 


Muitem  Bro 


No.  VII.  CRUSTACEA.  241 

natus,  and  four  very  small  specimens  of  an  Amphipoda 
perhaps  belonging  to  the  genus  Pherusa.  Both  these  species 
were  collected  at  a  depth  of  7  fathoms,  on  a  clay  bottom,  in 
Pandora  Harbour,  Smith  Sound,  in  lat.  78°  17'  N. 

Since  my  Report  was  published,1  to  which  I  must  refer 
for  synonymical  references,  descriptive  remarks,  and  notes  on 
the  geographical  distribution  of  the  species,  a  small  collec- 
tion has  been  sent  me  by  Dr.  Edward  L.  Moss,  R.  N.,  late 
surgeon  of  H.M.S.  *  Alert,'  containing  a  few  Amphipoda, 
Arcturus,  and  Nymphon.  and  free-swimming  Copepoda. 
The  Copepoda  were  entrusted  to  the  Rev.  A.  M.  Norman  for 
determination;  the  other  species  had  all  been  obtained  by 
Captain  Feilden  and  Mr.  Hart,  the  naturalists  of  the  Expe- 
dition. To  render  the  list  of  species  complete,  as  regards  the 
Crustacea  inhabiting  Smith  Sound  and  the  adjacent  coasts, 
a  few  species,  obtained  by  Dr.  Hayes  north  of  lat.  78°.  and 
recorded  by  Stimpson  ('P.  Ac.  N.  Sci.  Phil.'  1863),  have 
been  intercalated  in  the  text  and  are  placed  within  brackets. 

DECAPODA. 
CRANGONIDJE. 
Cheraphilus  boreas,  Phipps. 

Discovery  Bay,  lat.  81°  44'  (both  males  and  females),  at 
depth  of  25  fathoms ;  Cape  Napoleon,  one  male  example, 
at  25  fathoms;  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  one  female,  at  15 
fathoms  :  temperature  of  water  290<oO. 

Stimpson  records  specimens  collected  by  Dr.  Hayes  at  Port 
Foulke  and  Littleton  Island. 

Sabinea  septemcarinata,  Sabine. 

Discovery  Bay,  25  fathoms,  abundantly,  both  males  and 
females ;  Cape  Napoleon,  25  fathoms,  three  specimens,  males. 

Dobbin  Bay,  at  a  depth  of  30  fathoms,  one  specimen,  a 
female  with  ova. 

'  Ann.  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.'  xx.  pp.  52-66,  96-110  (1877). 

VOL.    II.  K 


242  APPENDIX.  No.  VII, 


Hippolyte  Gaimardii^  Milne  Edwards. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fathoms,  one  female  speci 
men. 

Specimens  were  collected  by  Dr.  Hayes  at  Port  Foulke. 

Hippolyte  spinus,  Sowerby. 
Discovery  Bay,  5  specimens,  at  25  fathoms. 

Hippolyte  turgida,  Kroyer. 

Discovery  Bay,  25  fathoms,  one  specimen. 
Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  one  specimen,  female  with  ova. 
Cape  Frazer,  20  fathoms,  one  female  example. 
Port  Foulke  (Dr.  Hayes). 

Hippolyte  Phippsii  ?  Kroyer. 

Cape  Frazer,  20  fathoms,  one  specimen. 
Port  Foulke  (Dr.  Hayes). 

Hippolyte  polaris,  Sabine. 

Discovery  Bay,  25  fathoms,  abundant  ;  Cape  Napoleon, 
five  specimens  ;  Franklin  Pierce  Bay.  1  5  fathoms,  several 
specimens. 

Dobbin  Bay,  30  fathoms,  one  specimen. 

Port  Foulke  and  Littleton  Island  (Dr.  Hayes). 

% 

Hippolyte  borealis,  Owen. 

Discovery  Bay,  at  25  fathoms,  several  specimens  ;  Cape 
Napoleon,  at  25  fathoms,  two  specimens. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fathoms,  several  specimens  ; 
Dobbin  Bay,  30  fathoms,  one  specimen. 

Littleton  Island  (Dr.  Hayes). 


No.  VII.  CRUSTACEA.  243 


Hippolyte  groenlandica,  J.  C.  Fabricius. 

Dumbell  Harbour,  lat.  82°  30',  one  female  specimen. 
Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fathoms,  one  male  specimen. 


STOMATOPODA. 

MlSIDyE. 

Mysis  oculata,  0.  Fabricius. 

Cape  Napoleon,  25  fathoms  (temperature  of  water 
29°  2'). 

The  single  specimen  collected  is  in  a  very  much  mutilated 
condition. 

Brought  by  Dr.  Hayes  from  Port  Foulke. 

ISOPODA. 

Arcturus  baffini,  Sabine. 

Cape  Napoleon,  at  25  fathoms,  two  specimens,  male  and 
female. 

Dobbin  Bay,  30  fathoms,  one  male  and  one  female ; 
Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fathoms,  four  males  and  three 
females,  and  many  young. 

A  single  specimen  was  collected,  with  many  of  the  variety 
I  have  designated  Feildeni,  by  Dr.  Moss,  on  the  ice  foot  a 
mile  north  of  H.M.S.  '  Alert's  '  winter-quarters. 

Var.  Feildeni  (Miers),  PI.  II.  fig.  1. 

This  variety  is  distinguished  by  the  absence  of  spines  on 
the  head  and  segments  of  the  body. 

Floeberg  beach,  82°  27'  N.  lat.,  very  abundant,  males, 
females,  and  young. 

B  2    - 


244  APPENDIX.  No.  VII. 


Gyge  hippolytes,  Kroyer. 

Discovery  Bay  (on  Hippolyte  polar  is),  one  male  and  one 
female  specimen. 

Dr.  Hayes  collected  this  species  at  Port  Foulke. 

Phryxus  abdominal/is,  Kroyer. 

Discovery  Bay,  male  and  female,  on  Hippolyte  polaris ; 
Cape  Napoleon,  male  and  female,  on  H.  polaris. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fathoms,  five  males  and  five 
females. 

Munnopsis  typica,  Sars. 

Cape  Napoleon,  two  male  specimens  at  a  depth  of  25 
fathoms,  temperature  of  the  water  29°*2  ;  at  50  fathoms  one 
male  specimen. 

Cape  Frazer,  20  fathoms,  one  female  specimen. 


AMPHIPODA. 
Anonyx  nugax,  Phipps. 

Floeberg  Beach,  at  10  fathoms,  male  and  females;  fire- 
hole  at  lat.  82    24' ;  and  at  lat.  83°  19'  at  72  fathoms. 
Winter-quarters  of  H.M.S.  '  Discovery,'  at  1 1  fathoms. 
Brought  from  Grale  Point  by  Dr.  Hayes. 

Anonyx  gulosu*,  Kroyer.     PL  II.  fig.  2. 

Discovery  Bay,  11  fathoms,  three  specimens. 

I  have  referred  these  specimens  with  some  doubt  to  the 
Anonyx  gulosus  of  Kroyer,  as  the  antero-lateral  margin 
of  the  head  is  less  broadly  rounded,  and  the  accessory  flagel- 
lum  is  longer  than  that  of  A.  gulosus  according  to  Boeck's 
diagnosis.  In  the  form  of  the  first  and  second  pairs  of  legs 
and  of  the  terminal  segment  they  agree  well  with  the  de- 
scriptions of  A.  gulosus,  and  particularly  in  the  presence  of 
a  tooth  on  the  inner  margin  of  the  dactyl,  which  is  mentioned 


No.  VII.  CRUSTACEA.  245 

by  Lilljeborg  as  characteristic  of  that  species.  From  A. 
pumilus  they  differ  in  the  shorter  antennae,  and  in  the 
absence  of  a  tooth  on  the  posterior  margin  of  the  fifth  post- 
abdominal  segment. 

Onesimus  Ediuardsii,  Kroyer.     PL  II.  fig.  3. 

Discovery  Bay  at  5J  fathoms,  lat.  81°  44',  one  speci- 
men; Floeberg  Beach,  at  10  fathoms,  males  and  females, 
abundantly. 

Atylus  carinatus,  J.  C.  Fabricius. 

Discovery  Bay,  at  depths  of  5J  and  25  fathoms,  several 
specimens  of  both  sexes  were  collected. 

Acanthozone  hystrix,  Owen. 

Discovery  Bay,  one  specimen ;  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  five 
specimens. 

Halirages  fulvocinctus,  Sars. 

Discovery  Bay,  at  25  fathoms,  one  specimen ;  Floeberg 
Beach,  one  specimen. 

Both  of  the  specimens  collected  are  in  an  imperfect  condi- 
tion :  one  is,  I  believe,  an  adult  female  ;  the  other  is  a  younger 
animal. 

Specimens  collected  at  Littleton  Island  by  Dr.  Hayes 
were  described  by  the  late  Dr.  Stimpson  as  new,  under  the 
name  of  Pherusa  tricuspis. 

Gammarus  locusta,  Linn. 

Floeberg  Beach,  at  depth  of  10  fathoms,  twenty-five 
specimens  ;  crack  between  the  floes  in  lat.  82°  24',  three 
specimens. 

Port  Foulke  (Dr.  Hayes). 

Gammaracanthus  loricatus,  Sabine. 

Floeberg  Beach,  at  10  fathoms,  two  males  and  two  fe- 
males. 


246  APPENDIX.  No.  VII. 


Amaihitta  pinguis,  Kroyer. 

Crack  between  floes  at  lat.  82°  24' ;  one  specimen,  in  im- 
perfect condition. 

Eusirus  cuspidatus,  Kroyer. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13—15  fathoms,  one  female  speci- 
men. 

Tritropis  aculeata,  Lepechin. 

Discovery  Bay,  at  25  fathoms,  one  male,  four  females ; 
Cape  Napoleon,  at  25  fathoms,  three  males,  seven  females  ; 
Floeberg  Beach,  at  1 0  fathoms,  two  males,  five  females ; 
Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  at  15  fathoms,  many  specimens. 

Cape  Frazer,  20  fathoms,  three  young  females  (?) ; 
Dobbin  Bay,  at  30  fathoms,  one  female. 

\_Themisto  libellula,  Mandt. 
Cape  Faraday,  in  the  stomach  of  a  seal  (Dr.  Hayes).] 

jEgina  spinosissima,  Stimpson. 

Cape  Napoleon,  25  fathoms,  temperature  of  water  29°'2. 
one  small  male  specimen. 

Dobbin  Bay,  30  fathoms,  one  large  male  specimen. 


ENTOMOSTRACA  v.  GNATHOPODA. 

PHYLLOPODA. 
BRANCHIPODID^E. 

Branchipus  (Branchinecta)  arcticus,  Verrill.     PI.  III. 

fig.  1. 

Discovery  Bay,  in  a  small  freshwater  lake  and  in  a  stream 
under  ice. 


No.  VII.  CRUSTACEA.  247 

Several  specimens  were  collected,  including  males  and 
females,  of  a  species  of  Phyllopoda,  which  I  refer  to  the  B. 
arcticus  of  Verrill. 

These  specimens  differ  slightly  from  the  descriptions  of 
B.  arcticus  and  groenlandicus,  as  will  appear  from  my 
description.1  If  distinct  (which  may  be  possible,  although 
I  think  it  more  probable  that  the  three  forms  are  varieties 
of  one  and  the  same  species),  the  species  may  be  designated 
B.  Verrilli. 

COPEPODA  PARASITICA. 


Lernceopoda  arcturi,  Miers,  sp.  n.     PL  III.  fig.  2. 

This  species,  as  will  appear  from  the  description,  differs 
from  its  nearest  ally,  the  L.  Edwardsii,  Olsson,  in  the  some- 
what shorter  ovaries  and  abdomen,  and  the  form  of  the  claw 
of  the  first  maxilliped.  The  L.  Edwardsii  is  known  to  me 
only  from  the  description. 

Floeberg  Beach,  parasitic  on  the  gills  of  Salmo  arctiirus 
Othr. 

Lernceopoda  elongata,  Grant. 

Port  Foulke  (Dr.  Hayes).] 

[Hcemobaphes  cyclopterina,  Fabricius. 

Littleton  Island  ;  attached  to  the  gills  of  Gymnetes  viri- 
dis  (Dr  Hayes).] 

CIRRIPEDIA. 

BALANIDJS. 

Balanus  porcatus,  Da  Costa. 

Cape  Napoleon,  from  a  depth  of  50  fathoms,  five  speci- 
1  Op.  cit. 


248  APPENDIX.  No.  VII. 

mens ;  25  fathoms,  two  specimens ;  Eichardson  Bay,  80°  2' 
N.  lat.,  70  fathoms,  one  specimen. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fathoms. 

\_Balanus  balanoides,  Linn. 
Port  Foulke  (Dr  Hayes).] 

PYONOGONIDA. 
NYMPHONID^E. 
?  Nymphon  hirtum,  J.  C.  Fabricius. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  eight  specimens;  Discovery  Bay, 
one  specimen ;  Floeberg  Beach,  at  depth  of  10  fathoms,  two 
specimens.  • 

Nymphon  hirtum,v&Y.  obtusidigitum  (Miers),  PL  III.  fig.  3. 

Among  the  specimens  from  Franklin  Pierce  Bay  is  a 
single  example,  which  differs  from  the  males  of  the  foregoing 
variety  only  in  the  legs  being  cylindrical,  not  dilated  and 
compressed,  and  in  the  form  of  the  chelae  of  the  mandibles. 
These  have  the  fingers  arcuate,  meeting  only  at  the  tips, 
which  terminate  in  small  knobs.  The  chelae  are  slender, 
not  globose,  as  in  the  form  figured  by  Bell,  in  Belcher, 
6  Last  of  the  Arctic  Voyages,'  p.  409,  pi.  xxxv.  fig.  4,  under 
the  name  of  N.  robustum,  and  that  recently  described  by 
Heller  as  N.  hians  ('  Sitz.  der  k.-k.  Akad. ; '  Wien.,  6  Naturw.' 
Ixxi.  p.  610,  1875),  in  which  species  the  fingers  although 
arcuate  are  represented  as  acute. 

Nymphon  Stromii  (Kroyer). 

Floeberg  Beach,  lat.  82°  27',  at  depth  of    10  fathoms, 

three    specimens,  and  at  lat.  81°  56',  one  specimen;  Cape 

Frazer,  at  a  depth  of  80  fathoms,  bottom  hard,  one  adult 
and  three  young  specimens. 


No.  VII.  CRUSTACEA.  249 


NOTES   ON  THE   OCEANIC   COPEPODA. 
BY  THE  REV.  A.  M.  NORMAN,  M.A. 

THE  Copepodous  Crustacea,  though  for  the  most  part  of 
very  small  size,  and  apparently  insignificant,  are  nevertheless 
indirectly  of  no  small  consequence  to  mankind,  inasmuch  as 
they  make  up  for  their  minuteness  by  their  extraordinary 
productiveness  and  numbers,  and  constitute,  in  combination 
with  the  Mysidea  and  larval  forms  of  higher  Crustacea,  a 
principal  element  in  the  food  of  the  whale. 

The  oceanic  species  have  not  hitherto  had  that  amount  of 
attention  paid  to  them  which  they  undoubtedly  deserve,  yet 
Kroyer,  Lubbock,  Baird,  and  Buchholz  have  examined  and 
described  many  forms  which  inhabit  the  Arctic  seas. 

Unfortunately  the  number  of  specimens  brought  home  by 
the  Arctic  Expedition  is  very  small,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  a  bottle  of  surface-gathering  from  Baffin's  Bay,  which 
contains  an  interesting  series  of  some  well-known  forms,  the 
species  are  represented  only  by  one,  or  at  the  most  two  speci- 
mens, and  these  already  mounted.  In  this  condition  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  determine  accurately  those  minute 
details  of  structure  in  the  mouth  and  other  organs,  which 
are  absolutely  essential  to  the  correct  definition  of  generic 
and  specific  characters.  At  the  same  time,  the  conditions 
under  which  the  Copepoda  were  found,  the  extreme  high 
latitude,  and  the  extraordinary  amount  of  cold  which 
prevailed  at  the  surface  while  these  animals  still  remained 
living  in  the  dead  of  winter  beneath  the  mass  of  superincum- 
bent ice,  render  them  so  interesting  that  I  am  unwilling  to 
leave  them  wholly  unnoticed,  though  the  description  which  I 
shall  be  able  to  give  must  of  necessity  be  extremely  imperfect. 

That  the  Copepodous  Crustacea  are  able  to  exist  under 
circumstances,  with  respect  to  cold,  which  are  most  extra- 


250  APPENDIX.  No.  VII. 

ordinary  has  long*  been  known.  Otho  F.  Miiller  froze  indi- 
viduals of  Cyclops  quadricornis  in  a  glass  vessel,  and  when 
fully  frozen  continued  the  cold  for  four  and  twenty  hours. 
He  then  placed  the  vessel  in  a  warm  bath,  and  watched  the 
effect.  For  four  and  twenty  hours  the  Crustacea  which  had 
been  frozen  showed  no  signs  of  life ;  the  next  morning, 
however,  to  his  surprise  he  found  the  greater  part  of  them 
restored  to  life  and  swimming  about  as  before  congelation. 
It  is  a  well-known  fact  also  that  the  life  of  the  eggs  of  Ostra- 
coda  and  Cladocera  can  be  maintained  for  many  months, 
when  ponds  have  been  completely  dried  up  in  the  summer 
months,  or  frozen  to  their  very  bottom  in  mid-winter. 

In  the  extremely  cold  winter  of  1859  and  1860  I  insti- 
tuted some  experiments  for  the  purpose  of  finding  how  far 
life  could  be  maintained,  under  extraordinarily  trying  con- 
ditions, among  the  lower  orders  of  the  Crustacea.  The  water 
of  the  lake  in  Hardwicke  Park,  in  the  parish  of  Sedgefield, 
had  in  the  month  of  October  been  let  off  so  as  to  drain 
large  mud-flats  on  the  shelving  sides,  in  order  that  the  weeds, 
exposed  by  this  means  to  the  influence  of  the  frost  during  the 
winter  months,  might  be  destroyed.  The  severest  cold  of 
which  we  have  record  ensued  for  five  weeks.  From  the 
seventeenth  day  of  December  the  mud-flats  were  continuously 
frozen  into  a  solid  block,  and  the  frost  on  Christmas  Eve 
reached  five  degrees  below  zero,  Fahr.  On  the  conclusion  of 
the  frost  a  portion  of  this  mud  was  procured,  and,  yet  further 
to  test  the  vitality  of  the  eggs  embedded  in  it,  the  mud  was 
thoroughly  dried.  On  March  1 1  a  small  portion  of  the  mud 
was  placed  in  a  glass  jar  of  water  and  exposed  to  a  genial 
temperature.  A  few  days  afterwards  Daphnia  rotunda, 
Sida  crystallina,  Diaptomus  castor,  and  Cyclops  quadri- 
cornis, together  with  some  Eotifera,  were  swimming  about 
merrily  in  the  vessel. 

It  is  no  surprise  therefore  to  us  to  meet  with  these  minute 
Crustacea  in  mid-winter  in  the  Arctic  Sea,  though  the  fact  is 
of  importance  as  bearing  upon  the  supply  of  food  existing 
during  the  winter  months  for  the  Greenland  whales. 


No.    VTI.  CRUSTACEA  251 

A  towing-net  gathering  from  Baffin's  Bay,  lat.  73°  33'  N., 
long.  76°  59'  W.,  made  September  16,  1876,  the  water  at  the 
temperature    of    34°*4,    contains    numerous    specimens    of 
Metridina  (Metridia)    armata^  Boeck.1     This  species  has 
been  described  by  Professor  Brady  from  the  Irish  coast  under 
the  name  of  Paracalanus  hibernicus,2  and  I  am  indebted  to 
him  for  the  opportunity  of  comparing  these  Irish  specimens 
(since  synonymised  by  him  with  Boeck's  genus)  with  those 
of  the  Arctic  Sea.     They  agree  in  every  respect  except  per- 
haps  that  the  terminal   spines  of  the    swimming   feet  are 
longer  in  proportion  to  the  joint  from  which  they  spring 
in  the  Arctic  than  they  are  in  specimens  from  the  warmer 
seas.     With   respect  to  size   we   find  here,  as  in  so  many 
other   instances  among   the  .Invertebrata,   an   extraordinary 
development  of  the  Arctic  specimens,  which  are  at  least  six 
times  the  size  of  those  from  the  Irish   coast,  and  measure 
five  millimetres  in  length,  exclusive  of  the  antennae.     It  is 
quite  possible  that  this  genus  may  prove  to  be  synonymous 
with  Pleuromma  of  Glaus ;  but  if  that  be  so,  the  mature  male 
of  Metridina  armata  has  not  yet  been  observed,  and  the 
males  which  Professor  Brady  and  myself  have  examined  must 
be   considered  as  immature,  and  not  yet  to  have  attained  the 
full  development  of  those  limbs  which  specially  characterise 
the  male  sex.     Glaus  has  named  his  genus   '  Pleuromma, ' 
to  indicate  the  presence  of  an  eye,  which  he  describes  and 
figures  as  situated  '  penes  maxillipedum  posticorum  basin.' 
It  is  not  a  little  remarkable  that,  attached  to  the  maxilliped 
of  one  of  the  specimens  of  Metridina  armata  procured  by 
Dr.  Moss,  is  a  group  of  parasitic  organisms,  each  of  which 
is  in  the  form  of  a  little  globular  body  supported  on  a  pedicel 
of  greater  or  less  length.     Sufficient  cannot  be  made  out  of 
the  organic  structure  of  these  parasites   to  determine  the 
class  of  animals  to  which  they  should  be  referred.     They  are 


1  Boeck's  genus  is  Metridia.     I  have  slightly  changed  the  termination 
to  Metridina  in  order  to  avoid  confusion  with  Metridium  of  Oken,  of 
which  our  well-known  sea-anemone  (Actinoloba  dicmthus)  is  the  type. 

2  <  Ann.  Nat.  Hist./  S.  iv.  Vol.  xii.  p.  126,  PI.  viii.  fig.  1-3. 


252  APPENDIX.  No.  VII. 

extremely  small ;  but  we  find  semigiobular  bodies  of  larger  size 
figured  in  one  of  Kroyer's  plates  ('  Voyages  en  Scandinavie,' 
&c.,  PL  xli.  fig.  2,  e,  f ),  as  attached  in  one  case  to  the  ventral, 
and  in  the  other  to  the  dorsal,  surface  of  Calanus  hyper- 
boreus.  It  may  be  that  these  are  the  more  mature  forms  of 
the  parasites  now  observed  on  Metridina  armata.  Now,  if 
the  young  of  such  a  parasite  were  attached  to  the  base  instead 
of  to  the  extremity  of  the  maxilliped,  it  might  very  possibly 
be  mistaken  for  an  organ  of  vision.  I  feel  great  hesitation  in 
even  hinting  at  this  possibility,  knowing  the  extreme  accuracy 
of  Glaus'  observations ;  but  the  mistake — if  a  mistake  has 
been  made — is  one  which  any  observer  might  easily  fall  into, 
more  especially  since  organs,  presumed  to  be  supplemental 
organs  of  sight,  are  not  unknown  among  other  orders  of  the 
Crustacea  (Thysanopodd),  attached  to  the  segments  of  the 
body. 

In  this  same  gathering  were  large  numbers  of  Calani, 
the  examination  of  which  has  cost  me  no  small  amount  of 
labour.  I  must  take  another  opportunity  of  giving  the 
grounds  on  which  the  conclusions  I  have  arrived  at  are  based. 
It  will  suffice  now  to  state  that  I  believe  that  the  whole  of 
these  specimens  are  referable  to  Calanus  Finmarchicus, 
Gunner,  better  known  to  British  naturalists  under  the  name 
of  Cetochilus  septentrionalis,  Groodsir,  and  that  Calanus 
magnus,  elegans  and  borealis  of  Lubbock,  and  numerous 
other  so-called  species,  are  merely  states  and  conditions  re- 
sulting from  differences  of  the  sex  and  age  of  our  old  friend. 
The  very  great  development  in  size  of  the  Arctic  examples 
as  compared  with  the  British,  which  results  in  the  young 
immature  forms  of  the  former  surpassing  in  size  the  fully 
developed  individuals  of  the  latter,  has  tended  much  to 
render  the  confusion  greater. 

A  mounted  specimen  collected  by  Captain  Feilden  near 
the  same  spot  is  referable  to  the  same  species  which  was  also 
procured  by  Dr.  Moss  in  the  summer  months  at  the  winter 
quarters  of  the  '  Alert,'  lat.  82°  27'  N. 

Two  very  interesting  gatherings  were  made  by  Dr.  Moss 


No.  VII.  CRUSTACEA.  253 

from  water  drawn,  in  mid-winter,  from  under  the  ice-floes 
at  the  winter  quarters  of  the  '  Alert,'  lat.  82°  27'.  There  are 
three  species,  unfortunately  two  of  them  represented  only  by 
a  single  specimen,  which  being  mounted  prevents  the  possi- 
bility of  full  examination ;  the  first  of  these  is  a  form  closely 
resembling  apparently  our  Idya  fureata  (Baird),  but  differs 
manifestly  in  the  form  of  the  last  legs,  which  are  ovate 
instead  of  produced  and  linear,  as  in  the  just-mentioned 
species  ;  this  new  form  may  be  named  Idya  palceocrystica. 

The  next  species  is  remarkable  on  account  of  the  nume- 
rous long  setae  of  the  anterior  antennae,  which  are  not  longer 
than  the  cephalo-thorax,  and  also  the  very  long  setae  of  the 
swimming  feet ;  it  is  possibly  a  Dias,  and  may  be  called 
Dias  (?)  Mossi. 

The  last  I  doubtfully  refer  to  the  genus  Pseudocalanus 
of  Boeck,  and  it  may  be  named  P.  Feildeni. 


NOTES   ON  THE   OSTRACODA. 
BY  GEORGE  STEWARDSON  BRADY,  M.D.,  F.L.S. 

1 .  Mud  from  ravine,  Repulse  Bay,  Hall's  Land ;  1 50  feet 
elevation,  lat.  82°  10'  N. 

Cytheropteron  montrosiense,  Brady,  Crosskey  and 
Robertson. 

2.  Mud  from  Fiord  Valley,  lat,  82°  8'  N. ;  200  feet  eleva- 
tion, from  valves  of  shells. 

Cf/pris  curvctta,  nov.  sp. 

3.  Mud-beds,  Cave  Ravine  ;   100  feet  elevation.     Lat.  82° 
32'N. 


254  APPENDIX.  No.  VTI. 

Cy there  globulifera,  Brady. 

4.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fathoms,  lat.  79°  25'  N. 

Cy  there  costata,  Brady. 
Xestoleberis  aurantia,  Baird. 
Cytherura  undata,  Sars. 
Selerochilus  contortus,  Norman. 

5.  Off  Victoria  Head,  Bache  Island,  35  fathoms. 

Cythere  leioderma,  Norman. 

„       tuberculata,  Sars. 
Cytheridea  punctillata,  Brady. 
Cytherura  clathrata,  Sars. 
Cytheropteron  montrosiense,  B.,  C.  and  K. 

6.  Hayes  Point,  35  fathoms. 

Cythere  Logani,  Brady  and  Crosskey. 

7.  Cape  Frazer,  50-80  fathoms. 

Cythere  leioderma,  Norman. 
„       gibbosa,  B.  and  E. 
„       concinna,  Jones. 
„       globulifera,  Brady. 
Cytheridea  punctillata,  Brady. 

„          sorbyana,  Jones. 
Cytherura  concentrica,  B.,  C.  and  R. 
Cytheropteron  nodosum,  var.  Brady. 
„  pyramidale,  Brady. 

„  septentrionale,  nov.  sp. 

„  montrosiense,  B.,  C.  and  R. 

8.  Smith  Sound,  off  Brevoort  Island,  210  fathoms,  lat. 
78°  57'  N. 

Cythere  costata,  Brady. 
Cytherura  similis,  Sars. 


No.  VH.  CRUSTACEA.  255 

9.  Sounding.     6  fathoms.     Lat,  82°  27'  N. 

Cytheropteron  montrosiense,  B.,  C.  and  R. 

10.  Sand  from  Floeberg  Beach.     Lat.  82°  29'  N. 

Cythere  cribrosa,  B.,  C.  and  R. 

Respecting  this  list,  all  that  it  is  needful  here  to  observe  is 
the  general  similarity  of  the  fauna  to  that  of  the  Post-tertiary 
glacial  beds  of  Scotland,  and  also,  of  course,  to  that  of  the 
North  British  seas,  e.g.  Shetland  and  the  Northern  Hebrides. 
Two  species  appear  to  be  undescribed,  but  all  the  rest  are 
well  known  as  glacial  fossils.  Considering  the  small  amount 
of  material  obtained,  the  number  of  species — twenty-one — is 
large,  and  would  seem  to  denote  a  very  considerable  develop- 
ment of  minute  crustacean  life  in  the  sea-bed  of  these 
remote  regions. 


256 


APPENDIX. 


No.  VII. 


I. 

II. 

III. 

BracJiyura        .        . 
Anomura  .         . 
Macrura  
Stomatopoda     
Cumacea  

3 
1 
11 

6 

7 

6 
1 

2 

9 
1 

4 

39 

21 

12 

PJiyllopoda        
Ostracoda,         
Copepoda          
Cirripedia        
Pycnogonida     

3 
34 
2 
4 
3 

1 

1 
3 

1 
21 
5 

1 
2 

Total 

113 

36 

56 

The  foregoing  Table  exhibits  (I.)  the  number  of  species  obtained 
during  the  ' Valorous'  cruise  on  the  west  coast  of  Greenland  and  in 
Davis  Strait ;  (II.)  the  number  mentioned  by  Buchholz  as  occurring  on 
the  south  and  west  coasts  of  Greenland  ;  (III.)  the  number  obtained  by 
the  British  Arctic  Expedition  north  of  lat  78°  N.  in  Smith  Sound  and  on 
the  coasts  of  Grinnell  Land. 

EXPLANATION  OF  THE  PLATES. 
PLATE  II. 

Fig.  1.  Arcturus  laffimf  var.  Feildem  ;  natural  size. 

Fig.  2.  Anonyx  gtdosus?,  slightly  enlarged:  a,  head  and  antennae  (lateral 
view) ;  b,  maxilliped ;  c,  d,  hands  of  first  and  second  pairs  of 
legs ;  e,  end  of  postabdomen,  showing  the  form  of  the  third 
segment;  /,  terminal  segment  and  last  pair  of  uropoda;  all 
much  enlarged. 

Fig.  3.  Onesimus  Edwardsii,  slightly  enlarged :  a,  head  and  antennae 
(lateral  view)  ;  &,  maxilliped ;  c,  d,  hands  of  first  and  second 
pairs  of  legs ;  e,  end  of  postabdomen,  showing  form  of  third 
segment  (lateral  view)  :  f,  terminal  segment  and  last  two  pairs 
of  uropoda  ;  all  much  enlarged. 

PLATE  III. 

Fig.  1.  Branchipus  (Branchinectd)  arcticus,  greatly  enlarged  :  a,  one  of 
the  large  prehensile  antennae  ;  b,  one  of  the  branchial  feet ; 
c,  caudal  appendages  ;  all  still  further  enlarged. 

Fig.  2.  Lernceopoda  arcturi,  greatly  enlarged  ;  a,  outer  antennae ;  6,  first 
maxilliped  ;  further  enlarged. 

Fig.  3.  Nymphon  hirtum,  var.  obtusidigitum,  natural  size :  a,  mandible  ; 
b,  c,  one  of  the  appendages  of  the  first  and  second  pairs ;  en- 
larged. 


No.  VIII.  ANNELIDA.  257 


No.  VIII. 

ANNELIDA. 
BY  W.  C.  MclNTOSH,  M.D.,  F.R.S. 

CAPTAIN  FEILDEN,  one  of  the  naturalists  of  the  recent  Arctic 
Expedition  under  Sir  Greorge  Nares,  placed  in  my  hands  a 
small  collection  of  Annelids  dredged  between  latitudes  79° 
and  82°  30'  N. 

The  majority  of  the  species  represented  in  this  collection 
have  a  very  wide  range  in  northern  waters,  many  being 
common  to  the  British  seas  and  the  shores  of  the  North 
Atlantic  generally,  and  on  the  American  side  stretching  from 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  northward  to  the  Polar  ice  beyond 
Smith  Sound.  With  two  exceptions  all  the  species  occur  in 
the  seas  of  Spitsbergen,  and  one  of  them  is  Icelandic,  while 
the  second  is  a  somewhat  doubtful  form. 

In  the  account  recently  published  by  Dr.  E.  Marenzeller, 
of  the  annelids  procured  by  the  Austro-Hungarian  North 
Polar  Expedition  under  Lieutenants  Weyprecht  and  Payer, 
27  species  are  mentioned,  of  these  no  less  than  18  do  not 
occur  in  the  following  list ;  but  no  further  weight  should  be 
put  on  this  than  is  warranted  by  the  fact  that  only  a  few  of 
the  abundant  forms  which  possess  a  wide  circumpolar  range 
have  been  obtained  in  either  case.  Many  of  the  18,  indeed, 
occur  on  the  Canadian  coast,  and  run  northwards  to  Davis 
Strait ;  on  the  other  hand,  about  half  the  species  procured  in 
the  "English  Expedition  do  not  appear  in  the  Austro-Hungarian 
collection,  made  between  latitudes  74°  and  79°  N. 

VOL.   II.  s 


258  APPENDIX.  No.  VIII. 

POLYOH^TA. 

POLYNOID^E. 

Nychia  cirrosa,  Pall. 
Eunoa  (Erstedii,  Malmgren. 
Eunoa  nodosa,  Sars. 
Lagisca  rarispina,  Sars. 
Harmathoe  imbricata,  L. 
Antinoe  Sarsii,  Kbg. 

PHYLLODOCID^:. 
Phyllodoce  grcenlandica,  (Ersted. 

STLLID^E. 
Autolytus  longisetosus,  CErsted. 

NEREID^E. 

Nereis  zonctta,  Malmgren. 

LuMBRINEREIDvE. 

Lumbriconereis  fragilis,  0.  F.  Miiller. 

SCALIBREGMID^E. 

Eumenia  crassa,  (Ersted. 

i  HALELMINTHID^:. 
Capitella  capitata,  Fabr. 

AMPHICTENID^:. 
Cistenides  granulata,  L. 

AMPHARETID^E. 
"Amphicteis  Sundevalli,  Malmgren. 

TEREBELLID^E. 

Scione  lobata,  Malmgren. 
Axionice  flexuosa,  Grrube. 
Thelepus  circinnatus,  Fabr. 


No.  VIII.  ANNELIDA.  259 


SABELLID^E. 

Sabella  Spetsbergensis,  Malmgren. 

Euchone  analis,  Kroyer. 

Chone  infundibuliformis,  Kroyer. 

OLIGOCILETA. 


Clitellio  arenarius,  0.  F.  Mull. 
GEPHYREA. 


Priapulus  caudatus,  Link. 

CILETOGNATHA. 

Sagitta  bipunctata,  Quoy  and  Graimard. 

I  am  indebted  to  Dr.  E.  L.  Moss  (late  surgeon  H.M.S. 
;  Alert  '),  who  served  with  the  Arctic  Expedition,  for  the 
notice  and  determination  of  this  Sagitta.  He  informs  me 
that  it  was  common  in  Melville  Bay  and  Smith  Sound.  The 
most  northern  specimens  were  captured  by  him  in  Bessels' 
Bay,  lat.  81°  7r  N.  [This  species  has  a  very  extensive  range 
from  the  British  shores  northward,  southward  and  westward.] 


260  APPENDIX.  No.  IX. 


No,  IX. 

ECHINODERMATA.i 

BY  PROF.  P.  MARTIN  DUNCAN,  M.B.,  LOND.,  F.R.S., 
PRES.  GBOL.  Soc. 

AND 

W.  PERCY  SLADEN,  ESQ.,  F.G.S.,  F.L.S.,  ETC. 

I~THE  Echinodermata  collected  in  Smith  Sound  and  at  the 
winter-quarters  of  H.M.SS.  6  Alert '  and  6  Discovery '  were 
obtained  by  the  naturalists  of  the  expedition,  Capt.  H.  W. 
Feilden,  and  Mr.  Hart,  under  the  superintendence  of  Capt. 
Sir  Greorge  Nares,  K.N.,  F.R.S.,  under  no  small  difficulty. 
Apart  from  the  trouble  of  dredging  when  the  tangles  froze  on 
coming  out  of  the  sea,  the  proceeding  could  not  be  frequently 
attempted ;  yet  the  number  of  specimens  collected  was  con- 
siderable. The  collection,  consisting  of  specimens  admirably 
cleaned  and  preserved  in  spirit,  and  of  others  equally  well 
taken  care  of  in  the  dry  state,  was  sent  to  the  British 
Museum.  Dr.  GKinther  confided  it  to  me  for  description 
and  classification ;  and  after  I  had  determined  the  species,  I 
asked  Mr.  Percy  Sladen,  F.Gr.S.,  F.L.S.,  to  examine  the 
forms  independently  and  to  join  me  in  drawing  up  this  re- 
port. Our  results  were  nearly  the  same ;  but  to  my  col- 
league is  due  the  new  species  of  Asteracantkion.  Dr. 
Carpenter  was  good  enough  to  examine  and  determine  the 
two  species  of  Comatula.  I  am  very  glad  to  have  this 
opportunity  of  thanking  Capt.  Feilden  for  his  assistance  in 

1  Abridged  from  '  Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.'  1877,  pp.  449-470. 


No.  IX.  ECHINODERMATA.  261 

giving  information  regarding  the  depth,  temperatures,  and 
localities  relating  to  the  specimens. 

The  collection  is  so  interesting  and  the  specimens  are  so 
variable,  that  we  propose  to  describe  it  fully  in  a  separate 
monograph. — P.  MARTIN  DUNCAN.] 

Localities. — To  avoid  repetition,  the  following  are  the 
positions  of  the  collecting-stations  in  Grinnell  Land  men- 
tioned in  this  report : — 

Floeberg  Beach  (the  winter-quarters  of  H.M.S.  '  Alert '), 
lat.  82°  27'  N.,  long.  61°  42'  W. 

Discovery  Bay  (the  winter-quarters  of  H.M.S. '  Discovery '), 
lat.  81°  41'  N.,  long.  64°  45'  W. 

Kichardson  Bay,  lat.  80°  5'  N. 

Cape  Frazer,  lat.  79°  44'  N. 

Hayes  Point,  lat.  79°  42'  N. 

Dobbin  Bay,  lat.  79°  40'  N. 

Cape  Louis  Napoleon,  lat.  79°  38'  N. 

Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  lat.  79°  25'  N. 

Although  the  present  Eeport  is  chiefly  confined  to  a  de- 
scription of  the  Echinoderms  obtained  north  of  lat.  78°  N.,  it 
has  been  thought  desirable  and  interesting  to  include  the 
record  of  a  dredging  made  by  Capt.  Feilden  during  the 
outward  voyage,  on  July  2,  1875,  in  lat.  65°  N.  The  station 
was  26  miles  from  the  Greenland  coast,  and  the  depth  30 
fathoms ;  bottom  rocky,  with  rounded  pebbles.  The  following 
Asteroids  and  Ophiurans  were  taken  here : — Asteracanthion 
polaris,  M.  &  T. ;  Solaster  endeca  (Linn.),  Forbes ;  Ophio- 
glypha  robusta  (Ayr.),  Lym. ;  Ophioglypha  Stuwitzii 
(Liitk.),  Lym. ;  Ophiopholis  bellis  (Linck),  Lym. 

List  of  the  Echinoderms  collected  during  the  Arctic 
Expedition  of  1875-76. 

HOLOTHUROIDEA. 

Cucumaria  frondosa  (G-unn.),  Forbes. 

ECHINOIDEA. 

Strongylocentrotus  drdbachiensis  (0.  F.  M.),  A.  Ag. 


262  APPENDIX.  No.  IX 

i 

ASTEROIDEA. 

Asteracanthion  grcenlandicus,  Stp. 

-  polaris,  M.  &  T. 
palceocrystallus,  nobis. 


Stichaster  albulus  (Stimps.),  Verrill. 
Crossaster  papposus  (Linck),  M.  &  T. 
Solaster  endeca  (Linn.),  Forbes. 

furcifer,  v.  Dub.  &  Kor. 

Pteraster  militaris  (0.  F.  M.),  M.  &  T 

OPHIUBOIDEA. 

Ophioglypha  Sarsii  (Liitk.),  Lym. 

robusta  (Ayr.),  Lym. 

Stuwitzii  (Liitk.),  Lym. 

Ophiocten  sericeum  (Forb.),  Ljungm. 
Ophiopholis  bellis  (Linck),  Lym. 
Amphiura  Holbolli,  Liitk. 
Ophiacantha  spinulosa,  M.  &  T. 
Astrophyton  arcticum  (Leach). 

CRINOIDEA. 

Antedon  Eschrichtii  (Miill.). 
celtica  (Barrett). 


HOLOTHUROIDEA. 

Cucumaria  frondosa  (Grunner.),  Forbes. 

Coll.  Feilden :  Baffin's  Bay. 

A  Cucumaria  witb  smooth  tough  body,  of  subpentagonal 
ovate  form.  Ambulacral  suckers  arranged  in  five  longitu- 
dinal series,  each  being  a  double  row,  with  the  tube  feet 
alternating.  Suckers  capable  of  entire  retraction.  Tentacles 
ten,  pedunculate,  frondose,  all  of  equal  size. 

This  Holothurian  has  a  very  extensive  geographical  dis- 
tribution, being  chronicled  by  Forbes,  under  the  name  of  C. 


No.  IX.  ECHINODERMATA.  263 

fucicolaffiom  Assistance  Bay  (Capt.  Penny's  voyage),  and 
by  Stimpson  from  Grand  Manan  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  It  is 
found  also  on  the  coast  of  Massachusetts,  Gulf  of  Georgia 
(Salenka),  San  Francisco  (Ayres),  along  the  whole  Scandi- 
navian coast,  Iceland,  Fa3roe  Islands,  and  in  the  English 
Channel. 

(7.  frondosa  attains  great  dimensions,  the  present  indivi- 
dual (one  specimen  only  was  obtained)  being  but  small ;  its 
length  is  80  millims.,  and  diameter  about  50  millims. 

ECHINOIDEA. 
Strongylocentrotus  drobachiensis  (Miiller),  A.  Ag. 

Coll.  Feilden:  Eichardson  Bay,  70  fms.  (young);  Frank- 
lin Pierce  Bay,  15  fms.,  bottom-temperature  29°*5  F. ; 
Cape  Napoleon ;  Hayes  Point,  35  fms.,  bottom-temperature 
29°-5  F. 

Coll.  Hart:  Discovery  Bay,  15-20  fms.,  muddy  bottom; 
Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fms.,  stony. 

Owing  to  the  extensive  range  of  this  boreal  echinoid,  the 
variations  to  which  it  is  subject  are  so  great  that  there  are 
perhaps  few  other  species  which  include  in  their  synonymy 
so  large  a  number  of  modern  determinations.  Distant  observers, 
depending  upon  the  stability  of  '  local  forms,'  have  founded 
numerous  so-called  new  species,  all  of  which  have  hitherto, 
however,  proved  untenable  when  due  comparison  has  come  to 
be  made  with  a  large  series  of  specimens. 

The  northern  varieties,  known  as  8.  granulatus  (Say), 
Gould,  and  8.  chlorocentrotus,  Brandt,  fail  to  present  any 
characters  of  sufficient  importance  to  warrant  their  separation 
from  the  drobachiensis  group,  although  when  isolated  and 
extreme  examples  are  compared  the  differences  at  first  sight 
appear  very  marked. 

Similarly  with  the  specimens  collected  by  the  recent  Ex- 
pedition, separate  individuals  placed  by  the  side  of  a  single 
8.  drobachiensis  from  a  more  southern  habitat  present 
superficially  a  striking  divergence. 


264  APPENDIX.  No.  IX. 

Of  these  Arctic  forms  the  test  is  depressed,  the*  spines  of 
the  abactinal  surface  so  small  (merely  miliaries)  and  so 
widely  spaced  that  the  echinus  has  quite  a  naked  appearance. 
The  pores  are  arranged  in  arcs  of  5-6.  The  primary  tubercles 
are  large,  only  one  to  each  plate,  and  form  prominent  vertical 
rows.  The  scrobicular  areas  are  wide  and  bounded  by  an 
irregular  circlet  of  tubercles  little  larger  than  miliaries ;  and 
there  are  but  few  other  tubercles  in  addition  to  these  on  the 
plates  above  the  ambitus.  Extending  from  the  actinostome 
to  the  ambitus  there  is  a  moderate-sized  secondary  tubercle 
on  each  side  of  the  primary. 

All  the  specimens  present  the  appearance  of  stunted 
growth. 

The  colour  of  the  test  is  a  varying  shade  of  purplish 
brown,  and  that  of  the  spines  greenish  grey. 

On  some  examples  the  pedicellarise  are  remarkably  nu- 
merous, especially  the  large  tridactyle  form  on  the  abactinal 
surface. 

Grood  series  of  specimens  were  obtained  at  several  stations, 
and  in  general  facies  present  great  constancy  of  character. 

The  largest  individual  (from  Cape  Napoleon)  measures 
43  millims.  in  diameter,  21  millims.  in  height,  and  has 
20  primary  interambulacral  tubercles. 

ASTEROIDEA. 

Asteracanthion  gronlandicus,  Steenstrup. 

Coll.  Feiiden :  Discovery  Bay,  25  fms. ;  Cape  Frazer, 
80  fms. ;  Hayes  Point,  25  fms. ;  Franklin  Pierce  Bay, 
15  fms. 

Coll.  Hart :  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  1 3—1 5  fms.,  stony. 

This  is  a  small  starfish,  with  five  moderately  thick 
arms.  Proportion  of  disk-radius  to  arm-radius  1  :  4*5  or  5. 
Ambulacral  spines  rather  long  and  cylindrical,  arranged  (in 
very  irregular  alternation)  two  and  one  to  each  plate.  The 
double  spines  radiate  in  opposite  directions,  the  single  ones 
standing  vertical  to  the  floor  of  the  furrow.  Except  in 


No.  IX.  ECHINODEUMATA.  265 

young  individuals,  and  near  the  tip  of  the  arm,  the  double 
series  are  the  most  numerous,  being  generally  borne  by  two 
or  three  plates  in  succession.  After  these  follow  two  or  three 
(according  to  age)  longitudinal  series  of  separate  spines,  not 
quite  so  long  as  the  ambulacral  spines,  and  tapering  slightly 
at  their  tips.  The  middle  series,  when  present,  are  smaller 
than  the  others,  and  placed  midway  upon  the  lateral  imbri- 
cating pieces.  At  the  base  of  each  of  the  spines  of  these 
three  series  is  a  circlet  of  pedicellarise.  The  ossicles  and 
interspaces  of  the  calcareous  network  on  the  abactinal  surface 
of  the  rays  present  a  very  transversely  elongate  arrangement, 
in  consequence  of  which  the  spinelets  springing  from  the  im- 
bricating pieces  assume  the  character  (though  irregularly)  of 
a  transverse  position  across  the  arm.  The  dorsal  spinelets, 
which  are  much  finer  and  shorter  than  the  ventro-lateral 
series,  are  arranged  in  groups  upon  the  ossicles,  and  in  speci- 
mens preserved  in  spirit  are  more  than  half-covered  by  the 
thick  corrugated  skin  which  invests  the  body.  The  pedicel- 
larise  are,  as  a  rule,  not  very  numerous  upon  the  dorsal 
surface.  The  papulae  are  single.  Upon  the  disk  the  spine- 
lets  are  more  closely  placed  ;  and  this,  in  spirit-examples, 
gives  quite  a  distinct  appearance  to  that  portion  of  the 
animal,  whilst  in  some  specimens  the  disk-spinelets  .are 
rather  longer  than  those  which  are  found  upon  the  rays. 

Dr.  Liitken  is  of  opinion  that  this  is  the  species  cited  by 
Forbes  under  the  name  of  Uraster  violaceus,  from  Assistance 
Bay  (Capt.  Penny's  Expedition).1  It  seems  probable  to  us, 
also,  that  the  Asterias  violacea,  in  Sabine's  Keport  on 
Parry's  voyage,  is  likewise  A.  gronlandicus,  since  the  Asterias 
rubens,  Fab.  (non  Linne),  also  there  mentioned,  is  referable 
to  A.  polaris,  M.  &  T. 

Asteracanthion  polaris,  Miiller  and  Troschel. 

Some  large  specimens  were  taken  on  the  Torske  Bank, 
Greenland,  on  the  outward  journey ;  and  several  young 

1  <  Vidensk.  Meddel.  1857,  Overs.  Gronl.  Echin.'  p.  20. 


266  APPENDIX.  No.  IX. 

examples  occurred  in  Capt.  Feilden's  dredging  in  lat.  65°  N., 
26  miles  from  the  Greenland  coast,  at  a  depth  of  30.  fathoms. 

Asteracanthion  palceocrystallus,  n.  sp. 

In  general  appearance  this  starfish  bears  a  strong  resem- 
blance to  a  Cribrella*,  the  rays,  five  in  number,  being  round 
and  tumid  ;  they  are  long  and  taper  considerably  towards  the 
point.  The  disk  is  small,  its  diameter  being  proportional  to 
that  of  the  rays  as  1  :  5 -5.  Skin  semitransparent,  not  corru- 
gated, and  investing  thickly  every  appendage  of  the  body. 
Ambulacral  pores  well  spaced,  forming  two  simple  rows  of 
sucker-feet,  as  in  Stichaster.  Each  interambulacral  plate 
bears  two  very  slender  spines,  which  form  two  regular  rows, 
one  radiating  towards  the  furrow,  the  other  to  the  margin. 
The  spines  upon  the  sides  of  the  arms  are  much  shorter  than 
the  ambulacral  spines,  and  comparatively  more  robust,  and 
are  the  same  in  size  and  character  as  the  spinelets  of  the 
dorsal  surface.  The  ossicles  of  the  abactinal  network  are 
arranged  more  quadrilaterally  than  is  usual  in  Asteracanthion', 
a  regular  median  line  passes  down  each  ray,  the  others  run- 
ning parallel  and  transverse  to  this  with  more  or  less  regu- 
larity. Only  a  single  spinelet  is  given  off  at  each  decussation, 
with  an  additional  one,  frequently,  on  the  imbricating  ossicle  ; 
the  spinelets  are  consequently  widely  spaced  and  assume 
(although  somewhat  irregularly)  a  fairly  rectilineal  arrange- 
ment. The  spinelets  are  of  the  same  shape  and  structure  as 
in  Stichaster  ;  they  are  deeply  grooved,  and  have  3-5  denti- 
cles proceeding  from  their  truncate  and  slightly  radiate  apex. 
The  ambulacral  spines  have  the  shafts  also  denticulate.  The 
pedicellarise  (6  croises,'  Perrier)  are  more  numerous  upon  the 
dorsal  surface  than  the  spinelets,  amongst  which  they  are 
placed  separately  and  at  intervals  apart.  These  pedicellariae 
are  large  and  closely  resemble  those  of  Stichaster r,  the  fore 
part  of  the  'jaw'  being  very  gibbous  and  truncate.  The 
pedicellarige  together  with  the  dorsal  spinelets,  which  are  but 
little  longer,  are  covered  with  a  thick  investing  membrane, 


No.  IX.  ECHINODERMATA.  267 

which,  in  spirit  preparations,  gives  quite  a  papillate  appear- 
ance to  the  starfish. 

Upon  the  disk  the  spines  are  somewhat  more  crowded  than 
upon  the  rays ;  and  the  '  eye  '-spines  at  the  tip  of  the  rays 
form  a  robust  terminal  fringe.  The  madreporiform  plate  is 
obscure  ;  and  of  the  large  simple  pedicellariae  there  are  but 
very  few. 

Although  this  species  resembles  Stichaster  in  so  many 
respects,  the  arrangement  of  the  dorsal  ossicles  is  hardly  such 
as  would  include  it  within  that  genus.  A.  palceocrystallus 
may  fairly,  however,  be  regarded  as  a  connecting  link  between 
Asteracanthion  and  Stichaster. 

From  the  character  of  the  ambulacral  spines,  the  absence  of 
papulae,  and  the  obscurity  of  the  madreporiform  body,  we  are 
disposed  to  regard  even  the  largest  specimen  we  have  as 
being  not  yet  fully  developed  :  it  measures  30  millims.  in  its 
greatest  diameter,  and  5'5  millims.  across  the  disk,  and  was 
collected  by  Capt.  Feilden  in  Discovery  Bay.  Depth  25 
fathoms,  hard  bottom.  Another  individual  from  Cape  Frazer 
(80  fathoms)  is  only  10  millims.  in  greatest  diameter,  yet 
presents  all  the  characters  of  the  larger  specimen. 

Stichaster  albulus  (Stimps.),  Verrill. 

Coll.  Feilden:  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  15  fathoms;  Proven, 
13  fathoms. 

A  little  starfish  with  small  disk  and  rounded  or  somewhat 
arched  rays,  the  number  of  which  is  almost  invariably  six, 
three  rays  on  one  side  being,  as  a  rule,  very  much  shorter 
than  those  on  the  other.  Proportion  of  the  diameter  of  the 
disk  to  that  of  the  arms  1  :  5  or  rather  more.  The  ambu- 
lacral furrows  are  wide,  with  suckers  arranged  in  two  simple 
rows.  On  each  interambulacral  plate  are  two  '  ambulacral ' 
spines  radiating  slightly  to  the  right  and  left.  Closely  succeeding 
to  those  on  the  sides  of  the  arms  follow  a  series  of  three  similar 
spines,  but  not  always  a  series  opposite  to  each  interambula- 
cral plate,  owing  to  the  imbricating  pieces  being  more  widely 


268  APPENDIX.  No.  IX. 

spaced.  The  dorsal  ossicles  present  a  regular  rectangular 
arrangement ;  and  the  interspaces,  which  are  very  small  and 
are  occupied  by  a  single  papula,  form,  in  consequence,  regular 
longitudinal  and  transverse  rectilineal  series.  From  each 
intersection  springs  a  small  subquadrate  group  of  from  three 
to  five  short  dorsal  spines,  amongst  which  are  placed  one  or 
two  pedicellarise.  Towards  the  sides  the  pedicellariae  are  more 
numerous.  The  spine  groups  are  regularly  disposed  in  longi- 
tudinal and  transverse  lines,  those  of  the  middle  row  being 
more  densely  packed  than  the  others,  thereby  forming  a  more 
or  less  distinct  median  line  down  each  ray.  The  spinelets  are 
of  equal  length,  and,  being  closely  set,  give  a  smooth  velvety 
appearance  to  the  starfish.  From  the  apices  of  the  spinelets, 
which  are  broader  than  the  bases,  proceed  three  or  four  small 
denticles. 

Only  three  specimens  of  this  Stichaster  were  obtained  in 
Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  and  were  quite  young  individuals,  the 
largest  measuring  16  millims.  in  its  largest  diameter.  A 
much  finer  example  was  dredged  at  Proven  on  the  outward 
journey,  in  which  the  diameters  of  rays  and  disk  were  respec- 
tively 30  millims.  and  6  millims. 

Crossaster  papposus  (Linck),  Miiller  and  Troschel.1 

Coll.  Feilden :  Discovery  Bay,  25  fins.,  hard  bottom ; 
Cape  Frazer,  80  fms. ;  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  15  frns.,  bottom- 
temperature  29°-5  Fahr. 

Coll.  Hart:  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fms. 

1  The  genus  Solaster  of  Forbes  included  the  two  starfishes  known  as 
Asterias  endeca,  Linn.,  and  A.  papposa,  Fabr.  (Linck).  The  morpholo- 
gical differences  of  these  forms  are  such,  however,  as  to  necessitate  their 
being  regarded  as  representatives  of  two  distinct  genera.  Confining,  there- 
fore, Forbes's  Solaster  to  his  own  type  (S.  endeca),  Miiller  and  Troschel's 
genus  Crossaster  (synonym  of  Solaster,  Forbes,  published  a  year  later)  is 
naturally  assigned  to  the  Asterias  papposa  type,  Gray's  designation  Poly- 
aster  having  been  appropriated  by  Ehrenberg  (Polyasterias)  at  an  earlier 
date.  The  propriety  of  the  above  limitation  was  suggested  by  Dr.  Liit- 
ken  so  far  back  as  1857.  (Of.  <  Vidensk.  Meddelelser,'  1857,  p.  35. 


No.  IX.  ECHINODERMATA.  269 

In  the  c  Oversigt  over  Grronlands  Echinodermer,'  !  Dr. 
Liitken  records  that  amongst  the  specimens  of  G.  papposus 
which  he  had  examined  there  occurred  only  one  example  of 
the  ten-armed  variety,  those  with  twelve  arms  being  the 
most  common. 

All  the  specimens  of  this  collection  are  ten-armed,  with  the 
exception  of  one  small  and  very  young  example  having  nine. 
Its  greatest  diameter  is  only  18  millims. 

When  compared  with  series  of  similar  size  from  more  tem- 
perate waters,  the  polar  specimens  are  characterised  by  finer 
arms,  fewer  spine-clusters  (bearing  fewer  but  very  much 
longer,  spinelets),  the  spine-clusters  more  widely  separated 
from  one  another,  and  the  ventral  spaces  almost  naked. 
These  points  are  so  striking  in  some  individuals  that  at  first 
sight  one  is  tempted  to  consider  that  we  have  here  a  well- 
marked  variety  of  this  almost  cosmopolitan  starfish.  Careful 
study,  however,  of  the  series  leads  us  to  the  conclusion  that 
no  sound  distinction  can  be  drawn  ;  and  we  would  offer  as  a  sug- 
gestion explanatory  of  the  divergence,  that  in  these  Arctic 
forms  of  Crossaster  premature  phases  are  more  slowly  passed 
through,  and  that  development  of  detail  takes  place  in  a  dif- 
ferent ratio  to  the  body-growth  from  that  which  obtains 
under  more  favourable  conditions  of  life. 

The  largest  specimen  obtained  measures  93  millims.  in 
diameter. 

Brandt  founded  a  species,  Asterias  affinis,  upon  a  single 
specimen  obtained  in  Behring  Straits,  but  which,  from  the 
short  description  given,  appears  only  to  have  been  similar  to 
the  specimens  before  us  ;  and,  such  being  the  case,  the  grounds 
are  not  sufficient  to  warrant  the  maintenance  of  his  species. 
In  all  probability  A.  alboverrucosa,  Brandt,  is  also  identical. 
A  singular  instance  of  the  rapacity  of  this  starfish  may  be 
here  related.  The  disk  of  one  of  the  large  individuals  from 
Discovery  Bay  being  considerably  distended,  it  was  cut 
open;  and  the  distention  was  found  to  result  from  the 
creature  having  gorged  a  young  Strong 'ylocentrotus  drobachi- 

1  '  Vidensk.  Meddelelser'  for  1857,  p.  40. 


270  APPENDIX.  No.  IX. 

ensis !,  nothing  but  the  clean  calcareous  plates  of  the  test  re- 
maining. In  the  stomach  of  another  (very  much  smaller) 
specimen  was  found  the  shell  of  Trochus  olivaceus,  Brown 
(kindly  determined  by  Dr.  Grwyn  Jeffreys). 

Solaster  endeca  (Linn.),  Forbes. 

One  young  specimen,  14  millims.  in  greatest  diameter,  was 
dredged  by  Capt.  Feilden  in  lat.  65°  N.,  26  miles  from  the 
G  reenland  coast,  at  a  depth  of  30  fathoms. 

Solaster  furcifer,  v.  Diiben  and  Koren. 

Coll.  Feilden :  Cape  Frazer,  80  fms. 

A  starfish  of  somewhat  depressed  form,  having  five  broad 
flat  arms.     Proportion  of  disk-radius  to  length  of  arm  1  :  3. 
The  calcareous  network  of  the  dorsal  surface  is  very  regular  ; 
and  the  spine-clusters  or  paxillae,  which  spring  from  the  inter- 
sections, form  longitudinal  series  which  run  parallel  to  the 
median  line  of  the  ray ;  consequently  only  two  or  three  of  the 
middle  series  reach  to  the  tip,  although  from  fourteen  to  sixteen 
may  be  counted  at  the  base  of  the  arm.     The  paxillse  are 
very  compact  and  have  a  stout  rounded  base,  nearly  twice  as 
wide  as  high,  bearing  a  crown  of  spinelets  (about  fifteen  to 
twenty)  in  length  about  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the  base. 
The  spinelets  are,  as  a  rule,  flat ;  and  from  the  angles  of  the 
apex,  which  is  as  broad  as  or  broader  than  the  base,  proceed 
two  small  denticles,  giving  the  appearance  to  the  spinelet  of  a 
two-pronged  fork ;  sometimes  the   spinelet  is  triangular,  in 
which  case  there  are  three  prongs.     On  the  sides  of  the  arms 
are  two  rows  of  large  paxillae  or  spine-clusters,  the  lower 
series  being  twice  the  breadth  of  the  upper  ones,  and  these 
themselves  being  much  larger  than  the  rest  of  the  dorsal 
paxillaB  just  described.     There  are  about  twenty  large  mar- 
ginal paxillse  from  the  arm-angle  to  the  tip.     Each  interam- 
bulacral  plate  bears  three  equal-sized  spines,  running  parallel 
to  the  furrow  ;  and  exterior  to  these  are  three  or  four  spines 
webbed  together  into  a  '  comb '  and  placed  obliquely,  or  even 


No.  IX.  ECHINODERMATA.  271 

in  some  cases  at  right  angles,  to  the  ambulacral  series  ; 
whilst  midway  between  the  combs  and  the  margin  of  the 
ray  are  three  or  four  small  spines  (not  sufficient  to  form  a 
paxilla  proper),  which  stand  quite  isolated  and  only  extend 
about  one  third  of  the  distance  from  the  mouth  to  the  tip  of 
the  ray.  The  madreporiform  tubercle  is  excentral  and  situated 
at  about  one-third  the  distance  from  the  centre  to  the  margin 
of  the  disk.  The  mouth-plates  are  large  and  broad,  the  mar- 
ginal spines  interlocking  with  one  another. 

Only  two  specimens  were  obtained  by  Captain  Feilden,  the 
largest  of  which  measures  65  millims.  in  its  greatest  diameter, 
and  21  millims.  across  the  disk  ;  the  arms  at  the  base  are 
13  millims.  broad. 

Pteraster  militaris  (0.  F.  M.),  Miiller  and  Troschel. 

Coll.  Hart :  Dobbin  Bay,  30  fms. 

This  starfish  is  readily  distinguished  from  its  congeners 
and  the  majority  of  other  asteroids  by  the  singular  fin-like 
margin  surrounding  the  arms,  by  the  membranous  skin  whicli 
is  spread  over  the  upper  surface,  as  well  as  by  the  series  of 
webbed  spines  which  stand,  in  transverse  ranges  like  fans,  by 
the  side  of  the  ambulacral  furrow. 

The  form  of  the  animal  is  pentagonal,  the  upper  contour 
of  the  body  high  and  arched,  and  the  underside  flat.  Propor- 
tion of  disk-radius  to  arm-radius  1:2.  Each  interambulacral 
plate  is  furnished  with  five  or  six  long  spines,  which  are  con- 
nected together  by  a  membrane  into  a  webbed  comb  placed 
transversely  to  the  ambulacral  furrow.  The  outward  spine  of 
each  comb  is  double  the  length  of  the  others,  and  extends 
about  half  its  length  beyond  the  edge  of  the  ray.  These  long 
spines  are  also  united  to  one  another  by  a  connecting  tissue, 
and  thus  form  the  fin-like  fringe  which  surrounds  the  entire 
starfish.  The  ambulacral  spines  forming  the  fan-like  comb 
are  nearly  equal  in  length,  the  middle  ones  being  slightly 
longer. 

The  body-skeleton  is  composed  of  a  calcareous  network, 


272  APPENDIX. 

from  each  of  the  cross  joinings  of  which  proceeds  a  spine- 
fasciculus  bearing  three  or  four  spinelets.  The  whole  dorsal 
surface  of  the  animal  is  covered  and  concealed  by  a  mem- 
branous tissue  supported  above  the  body,  like  a  tent-cloth, 
by  the  spinelets,  to  the  tips  of  which  it  is  attached.  A 
hollow  infradermal  cavity  is  thus  formed.  Neither  the  anus 
nor  the  madreporiform  tubercle  has  any  special  aperture  in  this 
investing  membrane ;  there  is,  however,  a  single  large-sized 
opening,  surrounded  by  a  margin  of  spines,  situated  nearly 
over  the  dorso-central  axis.  In  and  out  of.  this  aperture  Dr. 
Stimpson  has  observed  currents  of  water  passing,  as  in  the 
cloaca  of  a  Holothuria,  from  which  fact  he  was  led  to  regard 
the  functions  of  the  cavity  as  subservient  to  respiration.1 
MM.  Koren  and  Danielssen,  however,  have  pointed  out  that 
this  intermediate  space  between  the  double  dorsal  skin  fulfils 
a  further  and  more  important  purpose  by  becoming  a  chamber 
in  which  the  development  of  the  eggs  and  embryos  takes 
place. 2 

Although  our  knowledge  of  marsupiation  in  Echinoderms 
has  recently  been  largely  augmented  by^  the  additional  in- 
stances which  Sir  Wy  ville  Thomson  records  as  occurring  in 
species  from  southern  seas,3  it  is  most  interesting  to  find 
so  special  an  adaptation  for  the  purpose  in  this  truly  Arctic 
asteroid. 

Two  specimens  only  were  obtained,  being  dredged  by  Mr. 
Hart  in  Dobbin  Bay.  They  measure  about  60  millims.  in 
their  greatest  diameter. 

OPHIUROIDEA. 

Ophioglypha  Sarsii  (Liitken),  Lyman. 
Coll.  Feilden:  Floeberg  Beach,  10  fms. ;  Discovery  Bay, 
25  fms. ;  Hayes  Point. 

An  Ophioglypha  with  mouth-shields  shield-shaped,  longer 

1  Stimpson,  <  Marine  Invertebrata  of  Grand  Manan,'  p.  15,  in  Smith- 
sonian Contributions,  vol.  vi. 

2  Koren  and  Danielssen,  '  Fauna  littoralis  Norvegise,'  Heft  2,  p.  58. 

3  Wyville  Thomson,  '  Journ.  Linn.  Soc.'  vol.  xiii*  p.  55. 


No.  IX.  ECHINODERMATA.  273 

than  broad ;  length  less  than,  or  only  equal  to,  their  distance 
from  the  margin  of  the  disk.  Papillae  of  the  disk-incision 
about  fifteen,  and  rather  broad.  Under  arm-plates  widely 
separate,  of  a  very  broad,  short  triangle-shape.  Two  tentacle- 
scales.  No  infrabrachial  indentations.  Spines  rather  long, 
equal  in  length  to  the  side  arm-plates. 

This  is  the  most  northerly  echinoderm  brought  home  by  the 
Expedition,  a  fine  specimen  with  a  disk-diameter  of  26  millims. 
having  been  taken  by  Capt.  Feilden  at  the  winter-quarters 
of  H.M.S.  '  Alert,'  in  N.  lat.  82°  27'.  Other  examples  of 
this  species  were  obtained  at  Discovery  Bay,  and  among 
them  one  which  is  provided  with  remarkably  long  arm-spines, 
being  in  relative  proportion  fully  twice  the  length  of  the 
spines  generally  occurring  in  0.  Sarsii.  In  this  individual 
the  three  spines  of  the  sixth  joint  measure  respectively  2*45 
millims.,  2*25  millims.,  1'4  millim. ;  the  under  arm-plate 
being  *7  millim.  long,  the  arm-joint  1  millim.,  and  the  disk- 
diameter  15  millims.  The  remaining  features  of  the  specimen 
agree  too  closely  with  the  characters  of  0.  Sarsii  (Liitk.),  Lym., 
to  warrant  its  removal,  in  our  opinion,  from  that  species,  even 
as  a  provisional  variety. 

In  some  cases  great  irregularity  is  exhibited  in  the  mouth- 
papillae,  one  abnormal  example  being  particularly  worthy  of 
notice.  In  the  Ophioglyphce  the  innermost  mouth-papilla 
generally  stands  immediately  over  the  teeth,  and  might  be 
easily  mistaken  for  a  tooth,  being,  in  fact,  affixed  to  the  tooth- 
plate  and  not  to  the  lateral  plates.  In  0.  Sarsii,  as  well  as 
in  other  members  of*  the  genus,  two  additional  papillae  are 
generally  associated  with  it,  one  on  either  hand,  and  are  in 
like  manner  borne  by  the  ossicle  upon  which  the  teeth  are 
placed. 

In  consequence  of  this  arrangement  it  has  long  seemed 
probable  to  one  of  us  that  these  subdental  papillae  should  be 
regarded  as  tooth-papillae  (of  which  they  are  in  truth  the 
homologues)  rather  than  as  mouth-papillae,  so-called,  along 
with  which  they  are  commonly  counted.  One  of  the  speci- 

VOL.   II.  T 


274 


APPENDIX. 


No.  IX. 


mens  taken  in  Discovery  Bay  throws  considerable  light  upon 
this  question. 

In  this  individual  the  dental  armature  consists  of  four  teeth 
regularly  superposed,  following  upon  which,  and  occupying  the 
.same  breadth  as  a  tooth,  are  three  ossicles,  which  fit  to  one 

another  wedge  wise  with  sloping 
sides.  Then  come  two  which 
fit  together  and  correspond  in 
their  shape  with  the  irregu- 
larities of  the  upper  and  under 
tier,  which  latter  consists  of 
from  three  to  five  compact 
close-fitting  papillae ;  and  these 
again  are  succeeded  by  three 
or  four  (in  some  rays  five) 
moderately  long,  round-tipped, 
smaller  papillae,  the  whole 
forming  a  compact  mass  sug- 
gestive, in  the  highest  degree, 
of  ordinary  tooth-papillae,  such 
as  occur,  for  instance,  in  Ophio- 
thrix  ;  and  yet  in  every  detail, 
even  to  measurements,  the  specimen  conforms  to  the  diagnosis 
of  Ophioglypha  Sarsii.  This  individual  has  a  disk-diameter 
of  22  millims. 

Bearing  in  mind  the  tendency  towards  vertical  redupli- 
cation of  the  mouth-papillae  in  some  genera,  this  cannot  fail 
to  be  regarded  as  suggestive  of  the  manner  in  which  primitive 
tooth-papillae  may  have  been  developed ;  nor  is  such  an 
assumption  by  any  means  extravagant  when  the  great  irregu- 
larity of  these  parts  amongst  Arctic  forms  is  taken  into  con- 
sideration. 


w.p.s 


Abnormal  development  of  the 
dental  armature  in  0.  Sarsii. 


Ophioglypha  robusta  (Ayres),  Lyman. 

Coll.  Feilden :    Discovery   Bay,    25    fms.,  hard  bottom ; 
Richardson  Bay,  70  fms. ;  Hayes  Point,  3o  fms.,  bottom  tern- 


No.  IX.  ECIHNODERMATA.  275 

perature  29°*5,  and  also  at  25  fms. ;  Franklin  Pierce  Bay, 
15  fms.,  bottom-temperature  25°-5. 

Coll.  Hart :  c  Winter-quarters,'  Discovery  Bay ;  Franklin 
Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fms.,  bottom  stony. 

An  Ophioglypha  with  arms  very  finely  tapering,  and  disk 
with  regularly  arranged  scales  of  nearly  equal  size.  Mouth- 
shields  ovate  shield-shaped,  length  less  than,  or  at  most 
only  equal  to,  their  breadth;  length  much  less  than  the 
distance  from  the  margin  of  the  disk.  Papillae  of  the  disk- 
incision  very  short  and  stout,  often  grouped.  Under  arm- 
plates  broadly  heart-shaped  ;  one  tentacle-scale. 

This  species  was  obtained  at  various  stations,  as  indicated 
in  the  list  of  localities ;  and  though  neither  the  abundance  nor 
the  size  of  the  specimens  was  remarkable,  several  good  series 
were  collected.  The  characters  which  have  been  regarded  as 
6  specific '  are  remarkably  constant ;  and  no  essential  diffe- 
rence can  be  traced  between  these  Arctic  forms  and  specimens 
taken  from  the  coast  of  Maine,  U.  S.,  with  which  they  have 
been  compared,  excepting  that  in  the  northern  Ophiurans 
the  arm-spines  are  longer  and  somewhat  more  delicate,  and 
that  the  outer  margin  of  the  under  arm-plates  is  more 
arched  and  the  re-entering  angle  is  far  less  developed,  in 
certain  specimens  being  even  altogether  untraceable.  In  some 
large  examples  the  upper  arm-plates  are  very  markedly 
hexagonal. 

Although  this  deviation  is  very  constant,  the  foundation 
of  '  a  variety '  on  the  strength  of  such  characters  alone  is 
hardly  justifiable. 

The  arm-spines  are  moderately  stout  and  tapering,  the 
upper  one  being  flattened  and  much  larger  than  the  others. 

In  most  of  the  specimens  under  present  consideration,  the 
under  arm- plates  are  well  separated  from  one  another  by  the 
side  plates  and  do  not  overlap,  although  in  one  individual 
from  Discovery  Bay  the  first  ten  impinge  distinctly  in  conse- 
quence of  their  side  arm- plates  not  meeting.  This  feature  at 
the  basal  portion  of  the  arm  has  been  noted  by  Dr.  Liitken 
as  occurring  in  large  specimens  from  Greenland,  whilst  he 

T  2 


276  APPENDIX.  No.  iX. 

remarks  at  the  same  time  that  in  none  of  the  Danish  examples 
examined  by  him  do  the  under  arm-plates  touch. 

The  largest  specimen  was  taken  by  Capt.  Feilden  in 
Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  the  diameter  of  the  disk  (dried)  being 
10  millims. 

Ophioglypha  Stuwitzii  (Liitken),  Lyman. 

Two  specimens  were  collected  by  Capt.  Feilden  in  a 
dredging  made  in  lat.  65°  N.,  twenty-six  miles  from  the 
Greenland  coast,  depth  30  fms. 

Ophiocten  sericeum  (Forbes),  Ljungman. 

Coll.  Feilden :  Discovery  Bay,  25  fms.,  hard  bottom ; 
Cape  Frazer,  80  fms. ;  Hayes  Point,  35  fms.,  bottom-tem- 
perature 29°-5. 

Coll.  Hart :  Discovery  Bay,  15-20  fms.,  muddy  bottom, 
also  at  11  fms. ;  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fins. 

Disk  very  flat,  with  margin  forming  a  sharp  angle ; 
covered  with  imbricating  scales  and  a  superficial  squamo- 
granular  layer,  through  which  only  portions  of  the  radial 
shields  and  primary  plates  are  visible.  No  disk-incisions, 
the  disk  forming  a  little  arch  over  the  base  of  the  arms.  A 
row  of  papillae  edges  the  genital  slit,  and  passes  over  the  arm 
along  the  disk-margin  continuous  with  the  series  from  the 
other  side.  The  first  three,  or  sometimes  four,  upper  arm- 
plates  at  the  base  bear  papillae.  Side  arm  plates  meet  below, 
but  not  above.  One  tentacle-scale.  Three  arm-spines, 
arranged  along  the  outer  edge  of  the  side  arm-plate,  the  two 
upper  spines  being  much  the  largest. 

The  main  variation  which  we  have  noted  in  the  Arctic 
specimens  of  this  species  consists  in  the  greater  length  of  the 
arm-spines  as  compared  with  those  of  more  southern  examples. 
In  a  specimen  9*2  millims.  in  disk-diameter  the  length  of 
the  upper  arm- spine  of  the  sixth  joint  was  1*85  millim.  (in 
one  case  2-3  millims. !) ;  in  another,  with  a  diameter  of  disk 
of  8-5  millims ,  the  same  spine  was  1'8  millim.  long,  three 


No.  IX.  ECI1INODERMATA.  277 

arm-joints  in  this  individual  being  exactly  2  millims.  In 
addition  to  the  above,  variations  occur  in  the  contour  of  the 
mouth-shields,  and  in  the  larger  examples  considerable  irregu- 
larity is  also  found  in  the  number  and  position  of  the  mouth- 
papillse.  Amongst  this  collection  are  several  specimens 
having  a  very  decidedly  pentagonal  form  of  disk. 

In  our  opinion,  none  of  the  above  variations  can  be 
regarded  as  of  greater  morphological  significance  than  growth- 
phases,  or  at  most  individual  variations  only.  The  largest 
specimen  obtained  was  11  millims.  in  disk-diameter. 

Ophiopholis  bellis  (Linck),  Lyman. 

Coll.  Feilden  :  lat.  65°  N.,  26  miles  from  Greenland  coast, 
30  fms. 

Amphiura  Holbolli,  Liitken.1 

Coll.  Feilden :  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  15  fms.,  bottom- 
temperature  29°-5  F. 

An  Amphiura  with  disk  lobed ;  radial  shields  long  and 
narrow ;  mouth-shields  rounded ;  side  mouth-shields  large, 
subtriangular,  with  the  sides  re-entering  and  angles  rounded. 
Three  pairs  of  mouth-papillae,  the  middle  ones  placed  higher 
than  the  others.  Under  arm-plates  pentagonal.  One  ten- 
tacle-scale rounded ;  arm-spines  3—4. 

Only  a  single  specimen  of  Amphiura  was  taken ;  and 
this,  although  it  differs  slightly  from  the  type  form  in  the 
relative  measurements  of  certain  points  of  detail,  we  have 
little  hesitation  in  assigning  to  Dr.  Liitken's  species,  the 
variations,  in  our  opinion,  not  being  of  greater  importance 
than  such  as  we  should  regard  as  dependent  on  locality  and 
conditions  of  life. 

The  arms  are  less  broad,  and  take  their  origin  in  a  more 

1  So  much  confusion  has  arisen  in  consequence  of  uncertainty  as  to  th« 
identity  of  the  original  application  of  the  appellation  O.  Sundevalli,  that 
we  prefer  to  retain  Dr.  Liitken's  name,  despite  the  example  of  certain 
recent  writers  to  the  contrary.. 


278  APPENDIX.  No.  IX. 

deeply  re-entering  curve  of  the  disk-margin,  the  radial  shields 
are  narrower,  and  the  breadth  of  upper  arm- plates  in  pro- 
portion to  their  length  is  less  than  in  the  type  forms,  as  the 
following  measurements  will  indicate  :  — Diameter  of  disk  8 
millims. ;  radial  shield,  length  1-3  millim.,  breadth  -35 
millim. ;  sixth  upper  arm-plate,  length  '6  millim.,  breadth 
•9  millim. 

The  spines  are  hollow  cylinders,  stout,  blunt,  and  but 
slightly  tapering ;  the  upper  spine  on  each  side-plate  tapers 
most.  The  first  fifteen  arm-joints  bear  four  spines,  the  suc- 
ceeding joints  three  only. 

An  interesting  feature  connected  with  this  specimen  is 
worthy  of  record,  and  is  one  which  does  not  appear  to  have 
been  noted  by  previous  observers.  The  central  spines  are 
more  or  less  flattened  throughout  their  whole  length ;  and 
at  the  tip  compression  has  been  carried  to  such  a  degree  as 
to  form  a  thin  and  somewhat  expanded  head — a  peculiarity 
which  is  at  once  suggestive  of  a  characteristic  spine-appen- 
dage possessed  by  A.  filiformis ;  and  although  in  the  specimen 
under  notice  this  structural  feature  is  by  no  means  so  fully 
developed  as  in  that  Ophiuran,  it  is  still  sufficiently  marked 
to  impress  upon  the  mind  the  near  relationship  of  the  two 
species  and  the  community  of  their  descent — an  hypothesis 
which  is  also  further  strengthened  by  the  association  of  both 
the  forms  in  more  southern  waters. 

Ophiacantha  spinulosa,  Miiller  and  Troschel. 

Coll.  Feilden :  Discovery  Bay,  25  fms.,  hard  bottom ;  Cape 
Frazer,  80  fms. ;  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  1 5  fms.  Temperature 
29°-5  Fahr. 

Coll.  Hart:  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  13-15  fms.,  bottom 
stony. 

An  Ophiacantha  with  disk  covered  with  small  round  scales, 
each  bearing  a  small  short  ,spinelet.  Eadial  shields  very 
obscure,  sometimes  quite  covered.  No  disk-incision ;  and  the 
dorsal  membrane  is  prolonged  over  the  base  of  the  rays. 
Mouth-shields  twice  as  broad  as  long,  irregular  ovate.  Side 


No.  IX.  ECIIINODERMATA.  279 

mouth-shields  long,  narrow,  arched  and  meeting  within. 
Under  arm-plates  heptagonal  or  subheptagonal,  breadth  equal 
to  length.  Dorsal  arm-plates  triangular.  Side  arm-plates 
meeting  above  and  below.  Spines  7-8,  long,  thin,  and 
denticulate,  placed  on  a  keel. 

A  greater  number  of  this  Ophiuran  have  been  brought 
home  by  the  Expedition  than  of  any  other  Echinoderm.  The 
specimens  range  in  size  from  those  having  a  disk-diameter  of 
15  millims.  to  the  young  form  of  only  3  millims.,  and  conse- 
quently furnish  a  most  instructive  series. 

The  variations  dependent  on  growth  are  very  considerable, 
so  much  so  that  isolated  specimens  taken  from  different  stages 
in  the  series  might  easily  be  regarded  as  affording  the  types 
of  distinct  species. 

Conclusive  proof  has  been  furnished  by  the  material  which 
we  have  had  at  our  disposal  that  the  0.  gronlandica,  M.  and 
T.,  and  the  0.  arctica,  M.  and  T.,  are  untenable  species,  as 
Dr.  Liitken  has  already  pointed  out — and,  further,  that  the 
characters  which  had  hitherto  been  regarded  as  of  specific 
value  are  not,  as  that  eminent  authority  seems  to  infer,  even 
variations  such  as  can  be  regarded  as  dependent  on  distri- 
bution, but  must  be  considered  simply  the  phases  incidental 
to  age,  together  with  ordinary  individual  variation. 

Amongst  the  specimens  procured  by  the  naturalists  of 
H.M.SS.  '  Alert '  and  '  Discovery,'  there  are  many  presenting 
features  developed  in  a  manner  which  might  be  regarded  as 
'  ultraspecific '  when  compared  with  the  previously  recog-. 
nised  modifications  of  this  '  form.'  In  the  present  state  of 
knowledge,  however,  it  seems  preferable  to  comprehend  them 
under  0.  spinulosa  of  Miiller  and  Troschel,  rather  than  to 
burden  further  the  nomenclature  with  novel  designations. 

The  mouth-shields  and  the  under  arm-plates  in  this 
species  are  subject  to  very  considerable  changes  and  variation, 
both  in  contour  and  in  their  relative  proportions  of  length  to 
breadth.  In  large  and  adult  specimens  the  number  and 
arrangement  of  the  mouth-papillae  is  also  irregular ;  and  not 
only  is  there  a  frequent  increase  in  number  in  the  ordinal 
horizontal  series,  but  there  is  also  a  great  tendency  toward 


280  APPENDIX.  No.  IX. 

reduplication  of  certain  papillae  in  the  vertical  axis  of  the 
Ophiuran.  This  seems  to  arise  from  the  longitudinal 
cleavage  of  pre-existing  papillae. 

In  young  individuals  the  spinelets  of  the  disk  are  pro- 
portionally long,  five  or  six  times  their  own  diameter,  and 
present  all  the  appearances  of  ordinary  embryonic  spines. 
During  the  process  of  growth,  however,  increase  is  made  in 
thickness  only,  so  that  when  maturity  is  attained,  and  the 
spinelets,  along  with  the  disk,  are  invested  with  the  semi- 
transparent  leathery  membrane  of  the  body,  the  appearance 
is  more  that  of  short  stumpy  prominences  than  of  actual 
spines — a  deception  which  at  first  sight  gives  a  totally 
different  character  to  the  Ophiurans. 

Astrophyton  arcticum  ( Leach),  fide  Smith. 

This  Astrophyton  was  dredged  off  West  Greenland  by 
Mr.  A.  C.  Horner,  who  accompanied  Sir  Allen  Young  in  the 
'  Pandora,'  at  a  depth  of  600  fms.  in  Smith's  Sound,  lat. 
78°  19'  K,  long.  74°  30'  W.  The  present  writers  have  not 
seen  this  specimen,  and  are  indebted  for  the  information  to 
Mr.  Edgar  A.  Smith,  F.Z.S.,  of  the  British  Museum,  by 
whom  it  has  been  determined  and  referred  to  Leach's  species. 
This  is  particularly  interesting,  as  the  original  Gorgonoce- 
phalus  arcticus,  Leach,  was  obtained  by  Sir  John  Eoss  in 
Baffin's  Bay,  lat.  73°  37'  N.,  long.  77°  25'  W.,  at  a  depth  of 
800  fms.  This  was  one  of  the  earliest  instances  of  a  living 
organism  being  dredged  from  so  great  a  depth. 

CRINOIDEA. 

Antedon  Eschrichtii  (Miiller)  and  Antedon  celtica  (Barrett). 

Coll.  Feilden :  Discovery  Bay,  25  fms.,  bottom  hard. 

The  Comatulce  were  handed  over  to  Dr.  Carpenter  for 
determination  ;  and  he  has  kindly  informed  us  of  the  occur- 
rence of  the  above-named  species. 

Conclusions. 

It  is  clearly  manifest  that  extreme  caution  should  be 
exercised  in  drawing  conclusions  as  to  the  general  character 


No.  IX. 


ECHINODERMATA. 


281 


of  a  fauna,  on  the  basis  of  such  scanty  material  as  it  is  pos- 
sible for  a  single  expedition  to  furnish  ;  and  the  authors  feel 
that  the  great  hesitation  which  they  have  in  expressing 
definite  opinion  is  fully  warranted  by  the  fact  that  considerable 
additions  have  recently  been  made  to  the  Echinifauna  of 
Northern-European  waters,  the  details  of  which  have  not  yet 
been  published ;  and  these  investigations  may,  in  all  proba- 
bility, have  the  result  of  going  far  towards  rendering  present 
generalisations  invalid. 

Table  shoiving  the  general  Geographical  Distribution  of  the  various  Species 
above  mentioned ;  together  with  an  Indication  of  those  obtained  by  the 
previous  Arctic  Explorers,  Captains  Parry  and  Penny. 


1 

TJ 

! 

. 

.2 

a 

6 

1 

1 

! 

1 

•S 

OS 

| 

1 

1 

"C 

5 

o 

1 

1 

1 

1 

» 

* 

* 

* 
* 

Strongylocentrotus  drobachiensis 
Asteracantkion  gronlandicus  .  . 

* 

.    . 

* 

.  . 

* 

* 

* 

* 

9(1 

Crossastcr  papposus  

* 

* 

* 

Pteraster  militaris  

* 

.    . 

* 

* 

* 
* 

OphioglypJia  Sarsii   

4 

*? 

* 

Stutvitzii  • 

* 

Opliiocten  sericeum    

* 

.  . 

# 

.  . 

• 

f 

^ 

* 

* 

OphiacantJia  spinulosa    

ft 

* 

# 

Astrophyton  arcticutn  l    .  .  . 

.  .. 

« 

Antedon  JEschrichtH  .                 . 

9 

cffltica  .  .      ...         .  •  .  . 

\ 

* 

The  following  were  not  obtained  by  this  expedition  :  — 

* 

* 

Ctenodiscus  crispatit*. 

* 

Cncumaria  Hyndmani**  C.  Korenii,  Ltk. 

* 

CMrodota  brevis,  Huxley,  =  Myriotrochus  Rinkii,  Stp. 

* 

Ophiura  glacialis,  Forbes. 

This  was  dredged  by  Sir  John  Ross  in  1818. 


282  APPENDIX.  No.  IX. 

Of  these  twenty  Greenland  and  Grinnell  Land  Echino- 
derms, 

Fourteen  are  common  to  America  and  Europe  ; 

Three  are  known  as  American  and  not  European ; 

Two  are  known  as  European  and  not  American  ; 

One  now  first  recorded  from  Grinnell  Land  only. 

Analysis  similarly  shows  that  fourteen  out  of  the  twenty 
are  Grinnell-Landic.  And  of  these, 

Eleven  are  common  to  America  and  Europe ; 

Two  are  known  as  European  and  not  American ; 

One  from  Grinnell  Land  only. 

Reasoning  from  present  information,  the  writers  are  of 
opinion  that  the  character  of  the  Echinifauna  under  con- 
sideration is  the  effect  of  local  modification  acting  upon  a 
great  polar  distribution  rather  than  of  intercontinental  emi- 
gration simply. 


No.  X.  POLYZOA.  283 


No.   X. 
POLYZOA. 
BT  GEORGE  BUSK,  F.R.S. 

THE  following  list  of  the  Polyzoa,  collected  on  the  late 
Arctic  Expedition  in  Smith  Sound  and  northwards  by 
Captain  H.  W.  Feilden,  includes  only  about  seventeen  species. 
All  except  three  have  already  been  described,  and  are  well 
known  as  high  northern  or  Arctic  forms.  The  three,  which, 
so  far  as  I  am  able  to  ascertain,  appear  to  be  new  to  science, 
are  a  species  of  Flustra,  a  minute  species  of  Eschara, 
and  a  third  supposed  new  species,  belonging  to  the  sub- 
order CTENOSTOMATA,  represented  unfortunately  by  such  very 
scanty  and  imperfect  specimens,  that  I  only  venture  to 
propose  it  provisionally.  And  I  may  remark,  with  respect 
to  some  of  the  other  forms,  that  the  specimens  are  so  covered 
with  diatoms  of  numerous  species  as  to  be  very  difficult  of 
examination.  The  collection  is  interesting,  as  perhaps 
giving  the  highest  latitude,  82°.  27'  N.,  with  which  I  am 
acquainted  from  which  a  Polyzoon  has  been  procured. 

Full  descriptions  and  figures  of  the  new  forms  will  be  pubr 
lished,  if  allowed,  in  the  '  Proceedings  of  the  Linnean  Society.' 

SUBORDER  I.  CHEILOSTOMATA.     BK. 

Fam.  1.  Cellular iadce.     Bk. 
Genus  1.  Scrupocellaria.    V.  Ben. 

].&  scabra,  V.  B.  (sp.) 

Syn.  Cettarina  scabra,  V.  Ben.  '  Bull.  Brux.'  tab.  xv.,  p.  73,  figs.  3-6. 
„     Cellularia   scabra   (forma   typica),    Smitt,  'Ofver   S.  Skand.    Hafs 
Bryozoa,'  1867,  pp.  283  and  314,.  tab.  xvii.  fi«rs.  27-34. 


284  APPENDIX.  No.  X. 

Syn.  CelMaria  scrupea,  Alder.  'Trans.  Tynes  Field  Club/  vol.  iii.  62.  148. 
„     Scrupocellaria  scrupea,  Bk.  '  Quart.  Journ.  M.  Sc.'  iii.  p.  254  (non 

aliter). 
„     Scrupocellaria  Detilii,  Alder,  ib.  N.  Ser.  iv.  p.  107,  pi.  iv.  figs.  4-8 ; 

P  Bk.  1.  c.  xii.  p.  65,  pi.  xxii.  figs.  1-3. 
„     Scrupocellaria  scabra,  Norman, '  On  Rare  British  Polyzoa,' '  Q.  J.  M. 

S.'  viii.  p.  214  ;  Hincks.,  '  Polyzoa  from  Iceland  and  Labrador,'  '  Ann. 

N.  Hist.'  January  1877,  p.  98. 
„     ?  Crisia  Delttii,  Andouin,  *  Savign.'  pi.  xii.  fig.  3. 

Hob.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay.  79°  29'  N.  August  11,  1875, 
13-15  fathoms.  Stony  bottom,  H.  W.  F. ;  Sir  Edward 
Belcher's  '  Expedition  ! ; '  Hamilton  Inlet,  Labrador,  Wallich  ; 
Godhavn  Harbour,  Disco,  5-20  fathoms,  Norman  ;  Sabine 
Island,  German  '  Polar  Expedition  '  (teste  Hincks)  ;  Parry's 
Island,  Spitsbergen,  61-50  fathoms,  Smitt;  Britain,  Nor- 
man ;  Northumberland  Coast,  Alder ;  Coast  of  Belgium, 
V.  Ben. 

Genus  2.  Menipea,  Lamx. 
1.  M.  gracilis,  mihi. 

Char.  Zooecia  much  elongated,  subtubular  downwards. 
Aperture  oval,  border  slightly  thickened ;  usually  a  single 
spine  on  the  outer  side  above,  and  occasionally  one  on  the 
inner ;  a  broad  arched  gibbous  entire  operculum.  Anterior 
avicularium  small,  and  only  (?)  on  the  median  zooscium  at  a 
bifurcation.  Median  zooecium  not  mucronate ;  five  to  nine 
cells  in  an  internode.  Polypide  with  twelve  tentacles. 

Syn.   CelMaria  ternata  (forma  gracili*),  Smitt,  1.  c.  1867,  pp.  283-310, 
pi.  xvi.  figs.  17-20,  23,  24  (non  21,  22),  (excl.  Synom.) 

Hob.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  79°  29'  N.,  13-15  fathoms, 
H.  W.  F. ;  Spitsbergen,  200  fathoms,  Smitt. 

Fam.  2.  BICELLARIAD^E,  Bk. 
Gen.  1.  Bugula,  Oken. 

1.  J5.  murrayana,  Johnst.  (sp.) 

Syn.  Flustra  murrayana,  Johnst.  ^  Sars ;  Daniel  sen  ;  Packard. 
„     Flabellaria  spiralis,  Gray. 


No.  X.  POLYZOA.  285 

Syn.  Buffula  murrayana, '  Brit.  M.  Cat.'  p.  46,  pi.  lix.,  Smitt,  1.  c.  1867, 

pp.  291  and  348,  tab.  xviii.  figs.  19-27. 
„     Avicella  multispina,  V.  Ben. 

Hob.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  79°  29'  N.,  H.  W.  F. ;  Hunde 
or  Hunes  Islands,  Davis  Strait,  Dr.  Sutherland ;  Holsteinborg 
Harbour,  Norman  ;  Iceland,  Wallich  (teste  Hincks.) ;  Orkney, 
Lieutenant  Thomas ;  Shetland,  E.  Forbes  ;  Dublin  Coast, 
W.  McCalla. 

2  B.  (var.  ?)fruticosa,  Packard. 

Syn.  ?  Cellularia  quadridentata,  Loven,  MS.  1834  (teste  Smitt). 
„     Buyuda  murrayana  (forma  quadridentatci),  Smitt,  1.  c.  pp.  292  and 

351,  tab.  xviii.  figs.  25-27. 
„     Menipea  fruticosa,  Packard,  'List  of  Labrador  Animals,'  p.  9,  pi.  i. 

fig.  3. 
„     Bugula  murrayana  (v&r.fruticosa),  Hincks,    1.  c.  p.  98;  Norman, 

4  Valorous  Dredgings.' 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  79°  29'  N.,  H.W.F. ;  Labrador, 
Packard. 

Fam.  3.  MEMBRANIPORIDJE. 
Gen.  1.  Membranipora. 

1.  M.  unicomis,  Alder. 

Syn.  M.  unicornis,  Alder,  '  Oat.  Zooph.  North,  and  Durham,'  p.  66,  pi. 

viii.  fig.  6. 
„     M.  lineata  (forma  unicornis,  j3/3.  stadium  longius  adidtuni),  Smitt, 

1.  c.  pp.  365-399,  pi.  xx.  figs.  30,  31. 
„     ?  Reptoflu&trella  americana,  D'Orbigny. 

Hab.  Lat.  82°  27'  N.,  H.  W.  F.;  Hamilton  Inlet,  Labrador, 
15  fathoms,  Wallich!;  Spitsbergen,  6—50  fathoms,  and 
boreal  and  Arctic  seas  generally,  Smitt ;  Coasts  of  Northum- 
berland and  Durham,  Alder. 

Fam.  4.  FLUSTRID^E. 

Gren.  1.  Flustra. 
1.  Flustra  serrulata,  n.  sp. 

Char.  Zoarium  constituted  of  narrow,  ligulate,  bifurcated 
branches  slightly  expanded  at  the  ends;  zocecia  ovoid  or 


286  APPENDIX.  No.  X. 

oblong,  open  in  front   except  quite  at  the  bottom,  where 
there   is   a  very  narrow   calcareous    expansion;    border     of 
aperture  finely  serrated  or  beaded.     Ooecia  small,  immersed. 
Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  1 3  fathoms,  H.  W.  F. 

Fam.  5.  ESCHARHLE. 
Gen.   1.    Myriozoum,  Donati. 

1.  M.  coarctatum,  Sars  (sp.) 

Syn.  Cdlepora  coarctata,  Sars,  {  Reise  Lof.  Finm.'  p.  28. 
„     Leieschara  (Leiescharicf)  coarctata,  id.  l  N.  Norsk  Polyz.'  p.  17. 
•„     Myriozoum  coarctatum  and  subgracile,  Hincks,  1.  c.  p.  106;  Smitt, 

1.  c.  pp.  18  and  119. 
„     Millepora  truncata,  Fabricius,  'Faun.  Groenl.'  p.  432  ;  Packard,  1.  c. 

(teste  Smitt). 

„     ?  Myriozoum  subgracile,  D'Orb.,  '  Pal.  Franc.'  p.  662. 
„     Millepora  truncata,  (pars)  Lamouroux  j  Pallas. 

Hob.  (var.  subgracile.)  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  Smith 
Sound,  13-15  fathoms,  H.  W.  F. ;  Arctic  Sea,  Sir  E.  Belcher's 
*  Expedition ! ; '  South  Labrador,  Packard  ;  Newfoundland, 
D'Orb.;  Spitsbergen,  19-80  fathoms,  Smitt;  Greenland, 
Moller  and  Torel,  Holsteinborg  Harbour,  entrance  of 
Baffin's  Bay,  175  fathoms;  Norman, '  Valorous  Dredgings;' 
Iceland,  100  fathoms,  Wallich  (teste  Hincks). 

(Var.  coarctatum.)  Iceland,  100  fathoms,  Wallich!; 
Norway  Strom,  Sars,  &c. ;  Finmark,  Loven,  Sars. 

Gen.  2.  Eschara. 
] .  E.  degantula,  D'Orb. 

Syn.  E.  degantula,  D'Orb.  (1851),  'Pal.  Franc/  p.  102,  Smitt,  1.  c.  1867, 
pp.  24  and  151,  tab.  xxvi.  figs.  140-146,  Norman,  f  Valorous 
Dredgings.' 

„     E.  saccata,  Bk.  '  Ann.  N.  Hist.'  Ser.  2,  vol.  xviii.  p.  33,  pi.  i.  fig.  1  ; 
Sars,  1.  c.  1862,  p.  6. 

Hab.  Cape  Napoleon,  Cape  Frazer,  Franklin  Pierce 
Bay,  H.  W.  F. ;  Norway  and  Finland,  McAndrew ;  Spits- 


No.  X.  .POLYZOA.  287 

bergen,  Greenland,  Finmark,  30—60  fathoms,  Torel,  Loven, 
Sars  ;  Newfoundland,  D'Orb.  ;  Hare  Island,  Waigat  Straits, 
and  Lat.  66°  59'  N.,  55°  27'  W.,  57  fathoms,  Norman 
('  Valorous  Dredgings '). 

2.  E.  perpusilla,  n.  sp. 

Char.  Zoarium  diminutive,  constituted  of  irregularly 
forked  branches  rising  from  a  short  stem.  Stem  and  lower 
part  of  branches  cylindrical,  flattened  towards  the  ends. 
Zooecia  fusiform,  elongate;  mouth  looking  directly  up- 
wards (horizontal) ;  anterior  lip  tridentate,  the  median 
denticle  wide  and  expanding,  the  lateral  pointed,  xsonical. 
Immediately  in  front  of  the  median  denticle  an  avicularium 
about  half  the  length  of  the  zooecium,  with  a  circular  man- 
dible which  opens  upwards  and  backwards. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  Smith  Sound;  13-15  fathoms, 
H.  W.  F. 

3.  E.  Sarsii,  Smitt.  (sp.) 

Syn.  Escharoides  Sarsii,  Smitt,  1.  c.  1867,  pp.  24  and  158,  tab.  xxvi.  figs. 

147-154. 

„     Eschara  rosacea,  Sars,  '  N.  Norsk.  Polyz.'  p.  3  (non  Busk). 
„     Cellepora  cervicornis  (var.)  Sars,  f  Reise  Lof.  Finm.'  p.  28. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  Smith  Sound,  13  fathoms, 
JL  W.  F. ;  Spitsbergen,  20-60  fathoms,  Smitt ;  Greenland, 
Moller  and  Torel;  Finmark,  80-100  fathoms,  Sars  &c. ; 
Arctic  Sea,  Sir  E.  Belcher's  <  Expedition ; '  in  lat.  74°  0'  S., 
172°  0'  E.,  330  fathoms,  Hooker,  '  Voyage  of  the  "  Erebus  " 
and  "  Terror." ' ! 

Gren.  3.  Hemeschara. 

1.  H.  sincera,  Smitt.  (sp.)  (var.  inermis). 
Syn.  Discopora  sincera  (forma  Hemeschara),  Smitt,  1.  c.  1867,  pp.  28  and 

177,  tab.  xxvii.  figs.  178-180. 
„     Lepralia  (Discopora')  sincera,  Hi  neks,  1.  c.  p.  102. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  Smith  Sound,  13  fathoms 
(on  Cellepora  cervicornis),  H.  W.  F. ;  Spitsbergen,  19-61 
fathoms,  Smitt;  Finmark,  Loven ;  Arctic  Sea?  100  fathoms, 


288  APPENDIX.  No.  X. 

Wallich  ! ;  Iceland,  Wallich  (  teste  Hincks)  ;  Hare  Island, 
Waigat  Strait,  entrance  of  Baffin's  Bay,  175  fathoms, 
Norman. 

Gen.  4.  Lepralia,  Johnst.  (pars). 
1.  L.  Landsborovii  ?  Johnst. 

Syn.  L.  Landsborovii,  Johnst.  (pars);  ?  l  Brit.  M.  Oat.' p.  66,  pi.  Ixxxvi.  fig. 
„     1.  Escarella  Landsborovii  (forma  typica),  Smitt,  1.  c.  1867,  pp.  12  and 
94,  tab.  xxiv.  figs.  60-62  (non  cetera). 

Hob*  Cape  Frazer,  80  fathoms,  H.  W.  F.  (on  worm  tube) ; 
Spitsbergen,  Smith ;  Greenland,  Copenhagen  Museum  (teste 
Smitt). 

Fam.  6.  CELLEPORID^E. 

Gen.  1.  Cellepora,  Fabr. 

1.  C.  cervicornis,  mihi  (?  Couch). 

Syn.   Cellepora  cervicomis,  Bk.  '  Ann.  N.  Hist.'  Ser.  2,  -vol.  xviii.  p.  32, 

pi.  i.  fig.  1. 
„     Cellepora  pumicosa,  Sars,    f  Reise  Lof.  Finm.  ; '  Danielssen    (teste 

Smitt). 
„     Celleporaria  incrassata,  Smitt,  1.  c.  1867,  pp.  33  and  198,  tab.  xviii. 

figs.  212-216 ;  D'Orb.  (pars)  (non  Lamarck). 
„     Celleporaria  surcularis,  Packard  (teste  Smitt). 

„     ?  Cettepora  coronopus,  S.  Wood, '  Cray  Polyzoa,'  p.  57,  pi.  ix.  figs.  1-3. 
„  „          incrassata,  Hincks,  1.  c.  p.  105. 

Hob.  Cape  Napoleon,  Cape  Frazer,  H.  W.  F. ;  Norway 
and  Finmark,  McAndrew,  Loven,  &c.  ;  Spitsbergen  and 
Greenland  (very  abundant),  1 6-1 60  fathoms  (clay  and  stone), 
Smith  ;  Newfoundland,  D'Orb. ;  Crag  (fossil),  S.  Wood ;  in 
lat.  66°  59'  N.  Ion.  55°  27'  W.  57  fathoms  Norman. 

SUBORDER  II.   CTCLOSTOMATA. 

Fam.  1.  DIASTOPORHLE  (Bk.  6Brit.  N.  Cat.'    Part  iii.  p.  27). 
Gen.  1.  Mesenteripora.  Blainv. 

1.  M.  meandrina  ?  S.  Wood  (sp.) 

Syn.  Diastopera  meandrina,  S.  Wood,  l  Ann.  Nat.  Hist.'  xiii.  p.  14. 
„     Mesenteripora  meandrina,  Bk.   l  Crag  Polyzoa,'  p.    109,   pi.    xvii. 
„     fig.  2 ;  xviii.  fig.  4 ;  xx.  fig.  2,  Smitt,  1.  c.  1866,  pp.  398  and  432. 


No.  X.  POLYZOA.  289 

Syn.  ?         „  Eudesiana,  M .  Edw.,  *  Sur  les  Crisie's/  &c.  pi.  xiv.  fig.  1. 

„     ?         ,,  compressa,  D'Orb.  1.  c.  p.  756. 

„     ?  Ditaxia  compressa,  Hagenou,  'Bryoz.  Maastr.'  p.  50,  pi.  iv.  fig.  10. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  August  10,  1875;  15 
fathoms,  H.  W.  F.  ;  Greenland,  16-40  fathoms,  Torel ; 
?  Coralline  Crag  (fossil),  S.  Wood. 

Gen.  2.  Tubulipora. 

1.  T.  v&ntricosa,  Bk. 

Syn.   Tubulipora  ventricosa,  Bk.  (  Q.  Journ.  M.  Sc.'  iii.  p.  256,  pi.  ii.  figs. 

3-4 ;  'Brit.  M.  Oat.'  part  iii.  p.  26 ;  pi.  xxxii.  fig.  4  (same  figure). 
„  ,,  (subgenus    Proboscina)    incrassata    (var.    and   forma 

erectd),  Smitt.  1.  c.  1866,  p.  402,  tab.  v.  fig.  4. 

Hab.   Franklin  Pierce    Bay,   August    11,   1875,   13-1 
fathoms,  H.  W.  F. ;  Greenland  (on  Fucus),  Dr.  Sutherland. 


SUBORDER  III.  CTENOSTOMATA. 

Fam.  1.  VESICUL ABIADJES. 

Gen.  1 .  Farella,  Ehrenberg. 

1.  -F.  arctica,  n.  sp.  ? 

Char.  Zooecia  in  opposite  pairs  at  very  distant  intervals, 
Zooecia,  largest  0-  06  x  0-013. 

Hab.  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  August  11,  1875.  H.  W.  F. 
The  Ctenostomata  are  represented  by  this  single  species 
parasitic  upon  Bugula  fruticosa.  The  specimens,  however, 
are  so  few,  and  so  much  injured  and  overgrown  by  diatoms, 
that  it  is  with  considerable  difficulty  that  I  have  been  able 
to  make  out  even  the  scanty  diagnosis  given  above,  which 
must  be  regarded  as  provisional.  The  zocecia  are  very  large, 
reaching  apparently  an  extreme  length  of  0' 12-1 3  inch  by 
0.06  inch  in  diameter.  The  Polypides  have  about  twelve 
tentacles  and  no  gizzard,  so  far  as  appears  in  the  bad  state 
of  the  specimens. 

VOL.   II.  U 


290 


APPENDIX. 


No.  XI. 


No.    XL 

HYDROZOA. 
BY  GEORGE  J.  ALLMAN,  M.D.,  LL.D.,  P.R.S.,  ETC. 

THE  elegant  little  medusa  here  described  was  taken  in  the 
towing-net  by  Captain  Feilden  in  lat.  81°  44'  N.     It  is  re- 


Fig.  1.     Lateral  view;  magnified. 

PTYCHOGASTRIA   POLARIS. 


markable   among  hydroid  medusae  by  its   lobed   umbrella- 
margin,  which  thus  presents  a  character  belonging  to  the 


No.  XI. 


HYDROZOA. 


291 


discophorous  rather  than  to  the  hydroid  medusae,  while  the 
folds,  with  their  thickened,  convoluted,  and  gland-like  margin, 
which  run  longitudinally  along  the  inner  surface  of  the 


Fig.  2.  Equatorial  projection,  magnified.  This  view  is  from  below  through  the 
widely  open  mouth,  and  shows  the  convoluted  edges  of  the  eight  longitudinal 
gastric  folds. 


Fig.  3.     Natural  size. 

manubrium,  constitute  a  very  exceptional  and  striking  cha- 
racter. 

The  marginal  lobes  of  the  umbrella  are  in  the  form  of 
short  truncated  cones,  each  carrying  several  papilliform  and 

TT  2 


292  APPENDIX.  No.  XI 

probably  extensile  processes,  and  separated  from  its  neighbour 
by  a  deep  notch.  The  condition  of  the  specimen,  whose 
transparency  was  lost  by  its  preservation  in  alcohol,  rendered 
it  impossible  to  determine  anything  regarding  lithocysts, 
while  my  unwillingness  to  destroy  a  unique  specimen  has 
rendered  the  determination  of  some  other  points  of  structure 
not  so  complete  as  I  could  have  wished.  Each  tentacle 
corresponds  to  one  of  the  notches  which  separate  the  marginal 
lobes.  The  tentacles  are  manifestly  very  extensile,  but  are 
easily  detached,  and  had  mostly  fallen  from  the  specimen. 
They  have  the  cavity  divided  into  chambers  by  close  septa, 
and  show  a  very  distinct  longitudinal  fibrillation  of  thei? 
walls.  The  velum  is  wide  and  strong.  The  eight  radiating 
canals  with  their  large  oval  reproductive  sacs  are  very  distinct, 
but  the  circular  canal,  in  consequence  of  the  opaque  con- 
dition of  the  specimen,  was  but  faintly  indicated. 

The  specimen  appears  to  be  a  male. 

There  can  be  little  doubt  that  Ptychogastria  polaris  is 
the  planoblast  of  some  hydroid  trophosome  as  yet  unknown. 

PTYCHOGASTRIA. 

Gen.  Char.  Umbella  hemispherical,  with  lobed  margin 
and  filiform  tentacles  ;  lithocysts  ? ;  velum  broad ;  manu- 
brium  short  and  wide,  carrying  a  wide  mouth  with  quadran- 
gular lip  ;  inner  walls  of  manubrium  thrown  into  eight  longi- 
tudinal folds,  along  whose  free  edge  runs  a  thick  convoluted 
gland-like  chord ;  radiating  canals,  eight ;  reproductive  sacs 
oval,  large,  developed  near  the  middle  point  of  each  radiating 
canal. 

Ptychogastria  polaris. 

Umbella  about  half  an  inch  in  diameter ;  marginal 
tentacles  numerous  (32  ?) 

Captured  in  Discovery  Bay.     Captain  Feilden. 


No.  XII.  SPONGIDA.  293 


No.  XIL 

SPONGIDA.i 
BY  H.  J.  CARTER,  F.R.S.,  ETC. 

THE  collection  of  Sponges  brought  from  Smith  Sound  by 
the  Arctic  Expedition  of  1875-6  consists  of  five  species,  one  of 
which,  viz.  the  following,  has  hitherto  not  been  described. 

No.  1.  Semisuberites  arctica,  n.  sp. 

Greneral  form  funnel-shaped,  hollow,  with  a  long  round 
stem,  diminishing  in  size  to  the  point  of  attachment ;  mouth 
subcircular,  margin  thick,  round,  undulating.  Colour  light 
grey.  Surface  reticulate,  even.  Pores  external,  micro- 
scopic ;  vents  internal,  large,  plentifully  and  uniformly 
scattered  over  the  inner  surface  of  the  funnel.  Internal 
structure  loose,  light,  composed  of  acuate  spicules  united 
together  by  sarcode  into  bundles  which,  crossing  each  other, 
produce  the  usual  areolated  tissue  of  sponge.  Spicules  of 
one  kind  only,  viz.  skeleton,  but  of  two  forms,  viz. — 1,  acuate, 
slightly  curved  towards  the  large  end,  smooth,  and  gradually 
diminishing  towards  the  smaller  one,  which  is  rather  abruptly 
pointed;  average  largest  size  -^th  by  -j-gVo^  ^nc^  ^n  ^s 
greatest  diameters  :  2,  the  same,  but  with  a  slight  subterminal 
inflation.  Size  of  largest  specimen  about  3  inches  long  by 
If  inch  across  the  brim  of  the  funnel. 

Hob.  Marine,  Arctic  regions.  Growing  singly  or  in 
plurality  on  hard  objects. 

LOG.  Smith  Sound,  Cape  Napoleon,  in  50  fathoms. 

06s.  There  is  much  interest  attaching  to  this  sponge  in 
1  Abridged  from  'Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.'  1877,  pp.  38-42. 


294  APPENDIX.  No.  XII. 

many  ways.  First  it  is  almost  identical  in  elementary  struc- 
ture with  Halichondria  sanguined,  Johnston  («  Brit.  Spong.' 
1842,  p.  133),  originally  described,  with  a  figure  of  its 
spicule,  by  Dr.  Grant  in  1826,  under  the  name  of  Spongia 
sanguined  ('  Edinb.  Phil.  Journ.'  pi.  cxxi.,  fig.  9),  which, 
together  with  his  Sp.  papillaris,  are  the  two  commonest 
sponges  on  this  coast  (Budleigh-Salterton,  Devon),  where 
they  can  be  found  at  all  tides  in  great  abundance  a  little 
below  high-water  mark.  Secondly,  Dr.  Bowerbank,  from  the 
orange  colour  and  cork-like  tissue  of  Halichondria  sanguinea, 
the  tendency  of  its  spicules  to  a  pin-like  form,  and  the  fact 
that,  in  one  instance,  he  found  the  identical  form  of  flesh- 
spicule  which  characterises  Vioa  Johnstonii*  Sdt.,  and  (as  I 
hope  soon  to  show)  several  other  sponges  of  this  kind  ('  Brit. 
Spong.,'  vol.  i.  pi.  iii.  fig.  72,  p.  239),  points  out  that  both 
Semisuberites  arctica  and  Halichondria  sanguined  belong 
to  the  family  Suberitida,  of  which  I  also  hope  soon  to  give  a 
full  account  with  all  hitherto  described  species  in  its  different 
groups.  Thirdly,  a  similar  specimen  of  the  same  sponge,  but 
much  larger,  from  Spitsbergen,  was  presented  to  the  British 
Museum  by  the  Rev.  A.  E.  Eaton  in  1873. 

No.  2.  Halichondria  panicea,  Johnston. 

With  larger  spicules  than  those  of  the  common  British 
species,  and  histodermal  coat  like  that  of  the  deep-sea 
(Atlantic)  form. 

Nos.  3,  4,  and  5.     Sycon  raphanus,  Sdt.,    Ute  glabra,  Sdt.,  and  Leucoso- 
lenia  coriacea,  Bk.     These  three  are  calcareous  sponges. 

In  the  mounted  sand  taken  from  the  jar  which  contained 
Semisuberites  arctica  are  also  present  the  remains  of  many 
other  sponges,  viz.  the  perfected  flesh-spicule  of  Melonanchora 
elliptica  ('Ann.'  1874,  vol.  xiv.  p.  212,  pi.  xiii.  fig.  9),  the 
larger  spicule  of  Corticium  abyssi  (ib.  1873,  vol.  xii.  p.  18, 
pi.  i.  figs.  3-5),  also  large  bihamates  (fibulce),  probably  of 
an  Esperia,  and  many  other  spicules  whose  forms,  although 
different,  do  not  characterise  any  sponge  in  particular. 


No.  XIII.  FORAMIN1FERA.  295 


No.  .XIII. 
RHIZOPOVA  EETICULARIA. 

FORAMINIFEEA. 

BY  HENRY  B.  BRADY,  F.R.S.,  F.L.S. 

ABOUT  fifty  samples  of  material  were  preserved,  to  be 
examined  for  Microzoa  and  Microphyta.  These  were  for  the 
most  part  soundings  in  depths  of  from  10  to  260  fathoms, 
dust  from  ice-hummocks,  or  mud  from  beds  of  glacial  deposit 
of  greater  or  less  age.  The  Rhizopod-fauna  of  the  mud-beds 
requires  no  separate  treatment,  as  it  is  practically  identical 
with  that  of  the  present  sea-bottom  of  the  same  latitudes. 

Many  of  the  soundings  were  exceedingly  small  in  quantity, 
and  after  the  washing  required  to  rid  them  of  impalpable 
inorganic  matter  left  scarcely  any  residue,  but  of  the  entire 
number  about  forty  furnished  sufficient  specimens  to  give  a 
general,  if  not  an  exhaustive,  idea  of  their  constituent 
organisms.  In  some  cases  the  close  proximity  of  several 
soundings,  and  their  similar  depth,  permitted  the  treatment 
of  two  or  three  together,  or  at  least  the  incorporation  of  the 
results  in  one  list,  and  in  a  few  instances  the  quantity  of 
material  was  not  sufficient  to  show  adequately  the  nature  of 
the  sea-bottom ;  but  after  condensation  as  described,  and  the 
omission  of  those  furnishing  defective  data,  there  remained 
sufficient  basis  for  the  construction  of  a  distribution-table 
comprising  twenty-four  localities.  The  table  represents  fairly 
the  salient  features  of  the  Foraminifera-fauna  of  an  area 
lying  between  the  entrance  of  Smith  Sound  in  lat.  73°  N.  or 
thereabouts  and  the  most  northerly  point  attained  by  the 


296  APPENDIX.  No.  XIII. 

Expedition,  namely  lat.  83°  19'  N.  This,  considering  the  few 
opportunities  for  sounding,  and  the  difficulties  under  which 
material  was  obtained,  may  be  regarded  as  very  satisfactory — 
the  more  so  because  whatever  facts  are  derived  from  specimens 
procured  between  the  latitudes  named  are  distinct  accessions 
to  our  knowledge,  no  previous  observations  of  the  same  sort 
having  extended  even  to  the  southern  limit.  It  is  not 
proposed  in  this  place  to  do  more  than  give  a  list  of  species, 
and  to  make  a  few  remarks  on  the  general  aspect  of  the 
fauna ;  technical  details  are  better  suited  for  publication 
elsewhere. 

Our  knowledge  of  Arctic  Ehizopoda  is  chiefly  derived 
from  the  researches  of  Professors  W.  K.  Parker  and  T. 
Eupert  Jones,  and  of  the  Eev.  A.  M.  Norman.  The  memoir 
of  Messrs.  Parker  and  Jones  in  the  'Philosophical  Trans- 
actions' for  1865  forms  the  text-book  of  the  subject.  It 
comprises  the  results  of  the  examination  of  the  soundings 
taken  by  Sir  E.  Parry  in  Baffin's  Bay,  between  latitudes  74°  45', 
and  76°  30'  N.,  of  those  by  Dr.  Sutherland  off  the  Hunde 
Islands,  Davis  Straits,  in  lat.  68°  50'  N.,  and  of  dredgings 
made  by  Mr.  MacAndrew  off  the  coast  of  Norway  between 
lat.  65°  and  71°  N.  Mr.  Norman's  investigations  are  founded 
upon  the  dredgings  brought  home  by  Dr.  J.  Grwyn  Jeffreys 
from  the  cruise  of  the  '  Valorous,'  and  a  summary  of  them 
forms  one  section  of  the  Eeport  published  in  the  '  Proceedings 
of  the  Eoyal  Society'  for  1876.  In  the  same  Eeport  Dr. 
Carpenter  also  adds  a  few  general  observations  on  some  of  the 
larger  forms  of  Foraminifera.  Six  of  the  dredgings  brought 
home  in  the  '  Valorous '  were  from  within  the  Arctic  Circle, 
the  most  northerly  being  about  lat.  70°  N. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  the  area  embraced  by  the 
soundings  which  form  the  subject  of  the  present  notice 
stretches  nearly  seven  degrees  further  north  than  any  hitherto 
examined — in  point  of  fact,  it  covers  about  half  the  distance 
between  the  highest  latitude  of  Sir  E.  Parry's  series  and  the 
actual  North  Pole.  The  following  is  the  list  of  the  For- 
aminifera which  have  been  obtained  : — 


No.  XIII.  FORAMINIFERA.  297 

Cornuspira  foliacea,  Phil. 

*  „  involvens,  Reuss. 

*  Triloculina  tricarinata,  D'Orb. 

*  Quinqueloculina  seminulum,  Linne. 

„  subrotunda,  Montag. 

Lituola  fusiformis,  Will. 

„        scorpiurus,  Montfort, 

„        canariensis,  D'Orb. 

„       glomerate^,  nov. 
Hyperammina  elongata,  nov.  gen.  et  sp. 
Lagena  globosa,  Montag. 

„       Icevis,  Montag. 

*  „       marginata,  Montag. 
„       apiculata,  Reuss. 

„       sulcata,)  W.  and  J. 
„       striata,  D'Orb. 

*  „       caudata,  D'Orb. 

„       striatopunctata,  P.  and  J. 
„       melo,  D'Orb. 
„       squamosa,  Montag. 
Glandulina  Icevigata,  D'Orb. 
Dentalina  communis,  D'Orb. 
„          pauperata,  D'Orb. 
Cristellaria  rotulata,  Lamk. 
Polymorphina  lactea,  W,  and  J. 
„  compressa,  D'Orb. 

„  problema^  D'Orb. 

„  acuminata,  D'Orb. 

„  rotundata,  Bornem. 

*  Spirillina  vivipara,  Ehrb. 

*  Globigerina  bulloides,  D'Orb. 

„  inflata,  D'Orb, 

Uvigerina  pygmcea,  D'Orb.  (var.) 

*  Cassidulina  Icevigata,  D'Orb. 

*  „  crassa,  D'Orb. 

*  Bulimina  ovata,  D'Orb. 

*  Bulimina  elegantissima,  D'Orb. 


298  APPENDIX.  No.  XIII. 

Virgulina  Schreibersii,  Czjzek. 
Bolivina  punctata,  D'Orb. 
Textularia  biformis,  P.  and  J. 
Verneuilina  polystropha,  Keuss. 
Discorbina  obtusa,  D'Orb. 

*  Truncatulina  lobatula,  W.  and  J. 

*  Pulvinulina  Karsteni,  Keuss. 

„  Micheliniana,  D'Orb. 

*  Patellina  corrugata,  Will. 

*  Nonionina,  scapha,  F.  and  M. 

.,  umbilicatula,  Montag. 

„  depressula,  W.  and  J. 

„  stelligera,  D'Orb. 

Polystomella  arctica,  P.  and  J. 

„  striatopunctata,  F.  and  M. 

The  list  comprises  fifty-two  species,  and  a  few  doubtful 
specimens  remain  which  may  increase  the  number  by  one  or 
two.  Messrs.  Parker  and  Jones,  in  their  list  of  Arctic  forms 
give  a  total  of  seventy-five,  but  of  these  twenty  are  recorded 
from  the  Norwegian  coast  only,  leaving  fifty-five  for  Baffin's 
Bay  south  of  Smith  Sound  and  Davis  Straits.  There  is  fair 
ground,  therefore,  for  supposing  that  the  number  of  species 
of  Foraminifera  does  not  suffer  any  considerable  diminution 
northwards  from  the  Arctic  Circle.  The  species,  fifteen  in 
number,  marked  with  an  asterisk,  in  the  foregoing  table,  are 
those  which  were  found  in  the  sounding  made  in  lat.  83°  19' 
N.  at  a  depth  of  7 1  fathoms,  and  are,  except  a  few  Kadiolaria, 
the  unique  representatives  of  the  fauna  of  the  sea-bottom  at 
the  highest  latitude  yet  attained  by  explorers.  The  greatest 
variety  of  forms  from  any  single  Arctic  locality  is  furnished 
by  mud  from  80  fathoms  off  Cape  Frazer,  which  gives  a  list 
of  thirty-two  species.  As  already  stated,  it  is  not  to  be 
supposed  that  material  so  limited  in  quantity  has  furnished 
anything  like  complete  details  of  the  fauna ;  it  may  never- 
theless be  of  interest  to  compare  the  list  above  enumerated 
with  the  columns  referring  to  Baffin's  Bay  and  Davis  Straits 


No.  XIII.  POLYCYSTINA.  299 

in  Messrs.  Parker  and  Jones's  table.  It  will  then  be  seen 
that  thirty-six  of  the  species  are  common  to  both  areas,  and 
that  the  remainders  contain  many  nearly  related  forms,  which 
further  opportunity  may  probably  show  to  have  a  distri- 
bution extending  more  or  less  northwards  or  southwards,  as 
the  case  may  be. 

Two  new,  or  rather  undescribed,  species  have  been 
mentioned ;  of  these  detailed  descriptions  will  appear  else- 
where. One  of  them,  Lituola  glomerata,  is  of  minute  size, 
not  much  exceeding  T^  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  spiral 
or  nautiloid  in  mode  of  growth.  It  has  a  thin,  arenaceous, 
non-labyrinthic  test,  nearly  spherical  in  contour,  the  longer 
diameter  being  often  in  the  direction  of  the  axis,  and  consists 
of  a  few  long,  narrow,  slightly  ventricose  segments.  It  can 
scarcely  be  said  to  be  new,  for  it  occurs  in  more  than  one  of 
the  '  Challenger '  dredgings,  but  it  has  not  hitherto  been 
described  or  named. 

The  other,  for  which  the  generic  term  Hyperammina 
(vTrspos,  a  pestle,  and  a/i/xos1,  sand)  has  been  adopted,  is  one 
of  the  arenaceous  types  probably  first  recognized  in  the 
'  Porcupine'  dredgings  from  the  North  Atlantic  in  1869,  but 
since  found  in  many  parts  of  the  world.  Its  form  is  that  of  a 
club,  or  still  more  nearly  that  of  a  pestle,  and  it  consists  of  a 
straight  sandy  tube  with  one  end  rounded  and  closed,  gradu- 
ally tapering  towards  the  other  extremity,  which  forms  the 
aperture.  The  Arctic  examples  are  small,  none  being 
more  than  a  tenth  of  an  inch  in  length,  but  under  favourable 
conditions  specimens  are  met  with  many  times  as  large. 

The  effects  of  climate,  direct  or  indirect,  are  noticeable  in 
the  modification  of  form  assumed  by  some  of  the  species, 
which  occur  over  considerable  range  of  latitude.  The  Arctic 
specimens  of  such  species  are  often  dwarfed  and  usually  more 
compactly  built  than  those  obtained  in  more  southern  areas. 


NOTE. — Whilst  working  out  the  Foraininifera  of  the  various  samples 
of  material  from  the  sea-bottom,  any  Polycystina  that  were  found  were 
carefully  preserved.  They  were  only  noticed  in  seven  of  the  soundings. 


300  APPENDIX.  No.  XIII. 

and  the  specimens  were  for  the  most  part  few  in  number,  and  presented 
no  great  variety  of  form.  An  exception,  however,  must  be  made  in  the 
case  of  the  most  northerly  sounding  (lat.  83°  19'  N.),  which,  taking  into 
account  the  very  small  quantity  of  material,  yielded  a  considerable  series. 
The  species  of  Radiolaria  have  not  been  determined,  but  the  following 
is  a  list  of  the  more  prominent  genera  represented: — Dictyopodium, 
Haliomma,  Tetrapyle,  Hdiodiscus,  Actinomma,  Spongodiscus,  Spongo- 
trochus,  Spongaster,  Trematodiscus,  and  Euchitonia. — H.  B.  B. 


No   XIV.  BOTANY.  301 


No.  XIV. 

BOTANY. 

BY  Sm  JOSEPH  D.  HOOKER,  C.B.,  K.C.S.L, 

President  Royal  Society. 

With  LISTS  OF  FLOWERING  PLANTS,  by  Professor  D.  Oliver;  Musci,  by 
W.  Mitten  ;  FUNGI,  by  Kev.  W.  J.  Berkeley  ;  ALGJE  and  DIATOMA- 
:,  by  Professor  George  Dickie. 


THE  very  excellent  collections  of  flowering  plants  and  ferns 
brought  by  Captain  Feilden  and  Mr.  Hart  from  lat.  80°-83° 
North,  along  the  shores  of  Kennedy  Channel,  Hall  Basin, 
and  Kobeson  Channel,  and  particularly  from  the  N.E.  part  of 
Grrinnell  Land,  have  been  examined  and  named  by  Professor 
Oliver,  by  comparison  with  the  Arctic  collections  at  Kew. 
They  prove  that  the  vegetation  of  this  meridian  of  the  Polar 
area  is  entirely  Greenlandic,  showing  no  further  relationship 
than  does  Greenland  itself  to  the  floras  of  the  American 
Polar  islands  to  the  west  of  it  and  of  Spitsbergen  to  the  east 
of  it.  In  other  words,  it  possesses  Greenland  plants  that  are 
wanting  in  either  or  in  both  of  these  localities,  and  wants 
plants  that  either  or  both  of  these  regions  possess,  but  which 
are  absent  in  Greenland. 

In  my  essay  on  the  '  Outlines  of  the  Distribution  of  Arctic 
Plants,'  '  I  have  shown  that  the  Greenland  flora  was  in  origin 
essentially  a  European  one;  but  owing  to  causes  which  I 
have  there  attempted  to  explain,  it  has  lost  some  of  its  Euro- 
pean characteristics,  and  acquired  others,  of  which  some  few 

1  <  Trans.  Linn.  Soc.,'  xxiii.  251. 


302  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

are  derived  from  America  and  others  are  peculiar  to  itself; 
and  that  under  this  latter  point  of  view  it  should  be  regarded 
as  a  subdivision  of  the  European  flora,  and  when  discussing 
questions  of  Arctic  distribution  be  called  Greenlandic. 

No  fewer  than  sixty-nine  identifiable  flowering  plants 
and  ferns,  and  about  six  more,  in  too  imperfect  a  condition 
to  be  named  accurately,  have  been  brought  by  the  Polar 
Expedition  from  the  latitudes  mentioned  above  (besides 
nearly  as  many  more  from  the  Greenland  coast  south  of  it) ; 
a  considerably  larger  number  (ten)  than  have  rewarded  the 
researches  of  the  various  explorers  of  Melville  Island  (con- 
taining about  sixty),  situated  5°  further  south,  and  in  a 
much  milder  climate  ;  and  only  twenty-three  less  than  are 
found  in  Spitsbergen  (containing  about  ninety  ]),  which  lies 
wholly  to  the  south  of  lat.  80°,  is  a  much  larger  area,  is 
washed  on  its  west  coast  by  the  comparatively  warm  Gulf 
Stream,  and  has  been  explored  by  trained  botanists. 

The  elements  of  the  Flora  may  be  thus  expressed  :— 

1.  Spitsbergen  species  .         .,     .   »  "•      .         .         .     49 

2.  Melville  Island      ,- ,        *         •         f         •         •         •     41 

3.  Greenland  species  not  found  either  in  Spitsbergen  or 

Melville  Island     ;       '......"        .         .         .         .     12 

4.  Species   not   found   in   Greenland,   Spitzbergen,   or 

Melville  Island    ..         .         .         .         .         .         .2 

I.  The  species  not  found  in  Spitsbergen  are  :— 

Vesicaria  arctica  .         .     Greenland  and  E.  Arctic  America. 

Cheiranthus  pygmceus    .  Do.  „  „ 

Arenaria  grosnlandica  .     Do.  and  Mts.  of  E.  U.  States. 

Saxifraga  tricuspidata  .  Melville  Island  and  Arctic  Ame- 
rica generally. 

Epilobium  latifolium  .  Do.  and  Northern  Regions  gene- 
rally. 

1  '  Malingren  in  Ofvers  af  K.  Vel,  Akad.  Fork'  18G2,  pp.  229-268 ; 
translated  in  Seemann's  '  Journal  of  Botany,'  1864,  pp.  130  and  162.  A 
few  additions  have  subsequently  been  made. 


No.  XIV. 


BOTANY. 


303 


Antennaria  alpina 

Erigeron  compositus 
Vaccinium  uliginosum , 
Pedicularis  lapponica   , 

„          capitata 
Androsace    septentrion- 
alis 


Salix  arctica 
Luzula  campestris,  var. 
ccmyesta 

Carex  rigida 

„      holostoma  [?]  (al- 

pina) 
„      stans  (aquatilis)  . 

Deschampsia  ccespitosa  . 

Colpodium  latifolium    . 
Woodsia  ilvensis 


Melville     Island    and    Northern 

Regions  generally. 
Arctic  and  Alpine  N.  America. 
N.  Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions. 
N.  Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions. 
Arctic  America,  only  to  72°  N. 

N.  Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions 
generally,  but  not  beyond 
72°  N. 

Arctic  America  and  Greenland. 

Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions  gene- 
rally. 
Do.  „  „  „ 

Arctic  Europe  and  E.  America. 
N.    Temp,    and   Arctic    Regions 

generally. 
E.    Greenland    and    Arctic    and 

Temp.  Regions. 
Arctic  Regions  generally. 
N.   Temp,    and   Arctic    Regions 

generally. 


Of  these  the  first  three  are  peculiar  to  Greenland  except 
the  Arenaria,  which  is  also  found  in  the  mountains  of  the 
Eastern  United  States. 

II.  The  species  not  found  in  Melville  Island  are  : — 


Braya  alpina 

Vesicaria  arctica  . 
Cardamine  pratensis 

Cheiranthus  pygmceus 
Draba  hirta  . 


Spitsbergen  and  all  Arctic  Re- 
gions. 

Greenland  and  E.  Arctic  America. 

Spitsbergen  and  N.  Temp,  and 
Arctic  Regions. 

Greenland  and  E.  Arctic  America. 

Spitsbergen  and  Arctic  and  N. 
Alpine  Regions. 


304 


APPENDIX. 


No.  XIV. 


Draba  rupestris   •'.'        ; 

„      alpina        .      •   . 
Silene  acaulis        .   • 
Arenaria  gr&nlandica  . 

Stellaria  humifusa 

Erigeron  alpinus  .        ;~ 
„        compositus  -     '. 

Vaccinium  uliginosum . 
Cassiope  tetragona  +• 
Pedicularis  capitata 

„          lapponica  . 
Androsace    septentrion- 
alis    . 


Luzula  campestris  var. 
Carex  nardina 

,.      rigida,       *  .*,. 

„      holostoma  [?] 
Glyceria  'maritimou  var. 
Equisetum  variegatum 

,,          arvense 

Lycopodium  Selago 
Woodsia  ilvensis    . 
„       hyperborea, 

Cystopteris  fragilis 


Spitsbergen   and   Arctic   and  N. 

Alpine  Kegions. 
Do.  „ 

Do.  „  „ 

Greenland     and    E.     U.    States 

Mountains. 

Spitsbergen  and   all   Arctic  Re- 
gions. 

Do.  „ 

Confined   to   Arctic    and   Alpine 

N.  America. 
N.  Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions. 

Do.  „  „ 

Not  in  Greenland,  but  in  Arctic 

America  and  Asia. 
N.  Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions. 

Not  in   Greenland,   but   in   the 

N.  Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions 

generally. 

N.  Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions. 
Spitsbergen    „  „ 

N.  Temp.       „  „ 

Temp.  Arctic  Regions. 
Spitsbergen  and  Arctic  Regions. 
Do.  „    various      Arctic 

and  Temp.  Regions. 
Spitsbergen   and   N.  Temp,  and 

Arctic  Regions. 
Do.  „  „ 

N.  Temp. 
Spitsbergen   and   Arctic    Europe 

and  E.  America. 
Do.  „  „ 


III.  The  Greenland  species  found  neither  in  Spitsbergen 
nor  Melville  Island  are :  — 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  305 

Vesicaria  arctica  .         .  East  Arctic  America. 
Cheiranthus  pygmcuus    .  Do.  ,, 

Arenaria  grcenlandica  .  Mountains  of  E.  U.  States. 

Erigeron  compositus       .  East  Arctic  America  and  Eocky 

Mountains. 

Vacci/nium  uliginosum  .  N.  Temp,  and  Arctic  Regions. 
Pedicularis  lapponica   .  Do.  „  „ 

Luzula  campestris   var. 

congesta.         .         .  Do.  „  „ 

Carex  rigida .         .         .  Do.  „  „ 

„      holostoma  [?]        .  Do.  „  „ 

Woodsia  ilvensis    .         .  Do.  „  „ 

IV.  The  species  of  plants  found  in  lat  80°-83°,  but  which 
do  not  occur  in  Spitsbergen,  Melville  Island,  or  Greenland, 
are  Androsace  septentrionalis,  an  Arctic  plant  and  native 
also  of  the  cold  Alpine  regions  of  the  New  and  Old  World, 
but  which  finds  its  northern  limit  elsewhere  in  72°  on  the 
south  shores  of  the  Polar  islands  opposite  the  American 
coast ;  and  Pedicularis  capitata,  a  beautiful  plant  confined 
to  Arctic  Asia  and  America,  but  not  hitherto  found  north  of 
Port  Kennedy  in  lat.  72°.  The  recurrence  and  the  abun- 
dance of  these  two  plants  in  the  extreme  latitudes  visited  by 
the  Expedition  are  very  singular  facts.  To  these  plants 
might  also  be  added  the  Deschampsia  ccespitosa,  which, 
though  so  common  a  plant  of  the  Temperate  Zone  and  the 
Arctic  Regions  generally,  is  found  nowhere  either  in  Tem- 
perate or  Arctic  Greenland,  except  on  its  east  coast ;  a 
peculiarity  which  it  shares  with  Ranunculus  glacialis, 
Saxifraga  Hirculus,  S.  hieracifolia,  and  others,  all  of 
which  are  either  unknown  in  W.  Greenland  or  are  very 
rare  there. 

Of  seventy-three  high  Arctic  plants — namely,  such  as 
reach  the  north  coast  of  the  Spitsbergen  Group  (lat.  80°  to 
80°  40') — Malmgren  cites  thirteen  as  not  found  elsewhere 
in  those  islands  ;  and  of  these  he  remarks  that  they  establish 
a  relationship  with  the  Polar  island  flora,  while  the  rest 

VOL.  II.  X 


306  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

of  the  polar  Spitsbergen  flora  is  essentially  Greenlandic  and 
European.  Of  these  thirteen  the  following  only  were  found 
by  our  Polar  Expedition  in  the  lat.  80°  to  83°  :— 

Carex  nardina. 
Poa  abbreviata. 
Festuca  ovina  var.  brevifolia, 

The  Arctic  plants  common  in  Spitsbergen  and  Melville 
Island,  and  which  hence  might  have  been  expected  to  occur 
in  lat.  80°  to  83°,  but  do  not,  are — 

G.  Ranunculus  auricomus. 
G.  „          pygmceus. 

Parrya  arctica. 
G.  Draba  androsacea. 

Potentilla  frigida. 
G.  Saxifraga  stellaris. 

Hirculus  (East  Greenland  only). 

G.  Chrysosplenium  alternifolium. 

Nardosmia  frigida. 
G.  Campanula  uniftora. 

Salix  polaris. 
G.  Dupontia  Fisheri. 

Of  these  the  seven  with  a  G  prefixed  are  also  Greenlandic, 
and  hence  their  absence  from  the  higher  latitudes  visited  by 
the  Polar  Expedition  may  be  attributed  to  cold  or  other 
climatic  causes ;  and  the  other  five  not  being  Greenlandic 
(except  one  found  only  in  E.  Greenland),  their  occurrence 
was  not  to  be  expected  in  the  regions  under  consideration. 

Of  Melville  Island  plants  found  neither  in  lat.  80°  to  83°, 
nor  in  Spitsbergen,  are : — 

Caltha  palustris.* 
Astragalus  alpinus.* 
Oxytropis  uralensis.* 
Sieversia  Rossii. 
Senecio  palustris.* 
Pleuropogon  Sabinii. 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  307 

It  is  noteworthy  that  not  one  of  these  is  a  Greenland 
plant,  though  all  those  marked  with  an  asterisk  inhabit 
Arctic  Kegions  in  Europe.  The  absence  of  all  Leguminosce  in 
Spitsbergen  and  in  Greenland  (except  two  temperate  species 
in  the  south  of  that  peninsula)  is  a  most  singular  fact.  The 
collection  has  been  searched  in  vain  for  any  specimen  of  the 
remarkable  and  beautiful  little  grass  Pleuropogon  Sabinii, 
the  sole  representative  of  the  only  genus  peculiar  to  the 
Arctic  regions,  and  which  has  been  found  nowhere  but  in 
Melville  Island  and  its  immediate  neighbourhood.  It  still 
holds  its  place  as  the  rarest  and  most  inaccessible  of  known 
flowering  plants. 

The  proportion  of  Monocotyledons  to  Dicotyledons  in  lat. 
80°  to  83°  is  20  to  49  =  1  :  2-45,  which  is  nearly  that  of  Arctic 
Europe  flowering  plants  as  given  in  my  essay,  namely,  1  :  2'3 ; 
while  that  of  the  plants  of  all  Greenland  is  1  :  2'1. 

The  proportion  of  genera  to  species  is  42  :  69=1  :  1*7, 
that  for  Arctic  Europe  being  1  :  2*3,  and  for  all  Greenland 
1  :  2*0.  This  diminution  of  genera  in  proportion  to  species 
with  the  dwindling  flora  is  quite  normal. 

It  remains  to  add  that  the  flora  of  80°  to  83°  proves  that 
vegetation  may  be  expected  up  to  the  Pole  in  this  longitude 
— though  probably  not  in  all,  the  contrast  between  the  vege- 
tation of  lat.  80°  to  83°  in  Grinnell  Island  and  Franz  Josef's 
Land,  in  the  same  latitude,  being  most  striking  in  respect  of 
number  and  variety  of  plants.  Here  there  is  a  sward  covering 
a  deep  layer  of  vegetable  matter  exhibiting  a  brilliant  assem- 
blage of  gay-coloured  flowers,  the  resort  of  butterflies  and 
bees ;  in  Franz  Josef's  Land  vegetation  exists  only  in  rare 
and  isolated  patches.  Such  dissimilarities  were  not  antici- 
pated in  islands  occupying  so  very  small  an  area  as  the  Polar 
N.  of  80°,  and  on  the  supposed  extreme  limits  of  vegetation. 

The  northward  extension  of  the  Greenlandic  flora  so  near 
the  Pole,  and  the  retention  of  its  characteristics  as  distin- 
guished from  the  Spitsbergen  and  Polar  Island  floras,  indi- 
cate that  the  distribution  of  plants  in  the  Arctic  regions  has 
been  meridional,  and  that  the  subsequent  spread  of  the 

x  2 


308  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

species  in  latitude  has,  for  some  unknown  reason,  been 
restricted,  and  has  not  been  sufficient  to  obliterate  the  evi- 
dence of  this  prior  direction  of  migration. 

The  comparative  richness  of  the  flora  from  80°  to  83°,  taken 
especially  in  connection  with  that  of  Smith  Sound,  in  lat. 
78°  to  80°,  which  contains  many  Subarctic  plants,  indicates 
some  peculiarity  of  climate  or  other  condition  in  this  longi- 
tude that  favours  the  northern  spread  of  vegetation  in  this 
more  than  in  any  other  Arctic  longitude.  Thus  in  Smith 
Sound  there  have  been  gathered  : — 

Alchemilla  vulgaris* 
Pyrola  grandiflora* 
Bartsia  alpina. 
Armeria  vulgaris. 
Tqfieldia  palustris. 
Hierochloe  borealis,  and 
Lycopodium  annotinum. 

None  of  them  high  Arctic  plants  in  other  longitudes,  though 
all  of  them  except  the  Hierochloe  are  natives  of  Greenland. 

These  facts  seem  to  indicate  that  vegetation  may  be 
more  abundant  in  the  interior  of  Greenland  than  is  supposed, 
and  that  the  glacier-bound  coast-ranges  of  that  country  may 
protect  a  comparatively  fertile  interior.  And  to  this  view 
the  altitudinal  distribution  of  vegetation  in  Grinnell  Land 
lends  support :  there,  where  the  land  is  only  hilly,  flowering 
plants  ascend  on  unsnowed  slopes  that  dip  down  to  the  sea 
from  1,000  feet  elevation  ;  showing  that  it  is  to  the  presence 
of  lofty  mountains  on  the  Greenland  coast,  and  not  to  its 
latitude,  that  its  ice-bound  shores  are  due.  Thus,  too,  the 
abundance  of  animal  life  met  with  between  80°  and  83°  may 
be  accounted  for.  Barely  sufficient  pasture  is  found  along 
the  shores  of  Grinnell  Land  during  winter  for  the  support  of 
musk-oxen,  and  from  what  we  know  of  the  vegetation  of  the 
Polar  Islands  to  the  westward,  they  are  not  likely  to  provide 
pasturage  for  large  animals,  at  that  season :  so  that  we  are 
almost  driven  to  conclude  that  Grinnell  Land,  as  well  as 


Noa  XIV.  BOTANY.  309 

Greenland,  now  known  to  be  an  island  (partly  by  the  coast 
surveys  of  the  Polar  Expedition,  and  more  demonstrably  from 
the  results  deduced  by  Professor  Haughton  from  the  tidal  ob- 
servations), are,  instead  of  ice-capped,  merely  ice-girt  lands. 

The  cryptogamic  flora  of  the  regions  visited  produced 
little  novelty  except  amongst  the  lichens.  These  have 
been  submitted  to  Professor  Theodore  Fries  of  Upsala  for 
determination,  who  sends  the  following  interesting  statement 
regarding  them : — 

'  The  lichens  brought  home  by  the  Expedition  were 
gathered  chiefly  in  Grinnell  Land,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
winter-quarters  of  the  two  vessels.  It  is  easy  to  understand 
how  great  an  interest  this  collection  must  have  for  every 
botanist,  considering  that,  with  the  exception  of  nine  species, 
which  Payer  indicates  as  having  been  found  in  the  northern 
part  of  Franz  Josef's  Land,  not  a  single  lichen  is  as  yet 
known  from  any  more  northern  region  than  the  Seven  Islands, 
situated  south  of  81°  N.  lat. 

6  On  this  account  I  submitted  the  material  entrusted  to 
me  to  the  most  minute  examination.  Not  only  the  more 
developed  specimens  have  passed  a  microscopical  examination, 
but  every  morsel  has  been  examined  with  a  powerful  lens,  and 
every  little  fragment  of  a  lichen  thus  found  has  afterwards 
been  examined  under  the  microscope.  The  result  of  this 
rather  troublesome  but  very  interesting  examination  has  been, 
that  the  number  of  lichens  represented  in  this  collection 
from  north  of  lat.  81°  is  about  ninety  species.  Three  of 
these  at  least  are  new  to  science,  whilst  several  are  not  known 
before  from  the  Arctic  regions,  but  only  from  localities  much 
further  to  the  south. 

C0n  reviewing  the  collections  as  a  whole,  the  eye  is 
immediately  struck  with  the  paucity  of  more  developed  erect- 
growing  and  leaflike  species,  as  well  as  the  contracted  shape 
of  those  which  were  found.  This  is  the  more  remarkable,  as 
it  might  naturally  be  expected  that  such  lichens  would,  during 
the  long  winter  season,  constitute  the  principal  or  only  food 
of  the  musk-oxen  that  exist  in  those  regions.  It  is  strange 


310  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

that  the  reindeer  moss  (Cladonia  rangiferina),  so  common  in 
other  Arctic  regions,  appears  to  be  absent  from  Grinnell  Land. 

'  The  nature  of  the  lichen  flora  between  the  parallels  of  81° 
and  83°  North  by  no  means  indicates  that  the  northern  boun- 
dary of  the  lichen  flora  has  been  reached.  On  the  contrary, 
many  circumstances  combine  to  show  that,  if  there  be  land  at 
the  North  Pole,  lichens  will  be  found  there.  The  majority 
of  the  lower  lichens  brought  from  Grinnell  Land  appear  to 
be  as  well  developed  as  those  found  in  regions  farther  south ; 
and  even  from  a  height  of  1,200  feet  Captain  Feilden  has 
brought  home  several  normally  and  well-developed  species. 
The  most  luxuriant  specimen  of  the  leaflike  genus  Gyrophora 
which  is  brought  home  by  the  Expedition  is,  strange  to  say, 
from  lat.  83°  6'  N. 

6  The  remaining,  and  considerably  smaller,  part  of  the 
collections  was  obtained  partly  at  more  southern  stations  in 
Smith  Sound,  partly  during  short  visits  to  some  of  the  Danish 
colonies  in  Greenland.  The  former  (about  forty  species) 
undoubtedly  give  welcome  assistance  to  our  knowledge  of  the 
lichen  flora  of  Arctic  America ;  naturally  these  are  of  a  sub- 
ordinate interest,  as  gathered  in  localities  previously  subjected 
to  the  careful  search  of  lichenologists :  however,  my  exami- 
nation of  this  material  is  too  little  advanced  to  permit  me 
to  report  on  them  in  detail.' 


LIST  OF  FLOWERING  PLANTS, 
FROM  ELLESMERE  LAND  AND  GRINNELL  LAND. 

BY  PROFESSOR  D.  OLIVER,  F.R.S. 

Ranunculus  nivalis,  L. ;  and 

„  „        v&Y.floribus  minoribus,  pilis  calyci- 

nis  pallidioribus. 
Papaver  alpinum,  L.  (P.  nudicaule,  auct.) 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  311 

Cochlearia  officinalis,  L.  (G.  fenestrata,  Br.) 

Eraya  alpina,  Sternb. 

Vesicaria  arctica,  Rich. 

Cardamine  pratensis,  L.  (leafy  specimen  only). 

„          bdlidifolia,  L. 
Cheirantkus  pygmoeus,  Adams.    (Hesperis  pygmwa,  Hk., 

H.  minima,  T.  and  Gr.) 
Draba  hirta,  L. 

„       rupestris,  R.  Br. 
„       cdpina,  L. 
Silene  acaulis,  L. 
Lychnis  apetala,  L. 

„  „        var.  (L.  triflora,  Br.) 

Arenaria  grcenlandica,  Spr.  ?     (Leaves  only.) 

„        verna,  L.  (incl.  -4.  rubella,  Br.) 
Cerastium  alpinum,  L. ;  and 

„  „        forma:    foliis     ellipticis,     confertis, 

crassiusculis,  glabrescentibus. 
SteUaria  longipes,  Goldie. 
Potentilla  nivea,  L. ;  and 

„  „      var.  (P.  pulchella,  Br.) 

„  „      var.  (P.  Vahliana,  &c.) 

Dry  as  octopetala,  L.  (D.  integrifolia,  V.) 
Saxifraga  oppositifolia,  L. 

„         flagdlaris,  W.  ' 
Saxifraga  tricuspidata,  Retz. 

„          ccespitosa,  L. 

„          nivalis,  L. 

„  „       forma   monstrosa,  floribus    proliferis. 

Shift-rudder  Bay  (F.) 

„          cernua,  L. 
Epilobium  latifolium,  L. 

?  Arnica  montana,  L.  (J..  angustifolia,  V.)     A  leafy  frag- 
ment only,  from  winter-quarters  of  '  Discovery.'     (H.) 
Erigeron  alpinus,  L. 

„        compositus,  Pui'sh. 
Taraxacum  Dens-leonis,  Desf.  var 


312  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

[Vaccinium  uliginosum,  L.  (Hayes  Sound,  F.)  ] 
[Cassiope  tetragona,  L.          (  „  F.  and  H.)  ] 

Pedicularis  capitata,  Adams. 

„          sudetica,  L.  (P.  Langsdorffii,  Fisch.) 

„          lapponica,  L. 
Androsace  septentrionalis,  L. 
Salix  arctica,  Pallas  (varieties). 

Salix,  barren  fragments,  not  identified  (Shift-rudder  Bay,  F. ) 
„  „  (Joseph  Henry  Peninsula,  F.) 

Polygonum  viviparum,  L. 
Oxyria  reniformis,  Hk. 
Luzula  campestris,  Sm.  var.  conjecta. 

„  „  var.  (L.  hyperborea,  Br.) 

Juncus  biglumis,  L. 
Eriophorum  polystachyon,  L. 

„  capitatum,  Host. 

Carex  nardina,  Fries. 
„      rigida,  Good.     var. 

„      rigida,  Good.     (Hayes  Sound,  F.  and  H.) 
Carex  trijida?     Good,  abnormalis  forma?   an  C.  holostoma? 
Drej.     (Hayes  Sound,  F.) 

„  .         rigida,  Good.  var.  ?     (Shift-rudder  Bay,  F.) 

„  stans  ?  Drej.  f  Ptarmigan  Hill,  Hayes  Sound,  H.) 

„          fuliginosa,  S  and  H. 

„  „  var.  ?  (Dobbin's  Bay,  H.) 

Deschampsia  ccespitosa,  P.  de  B. 
Colpodium  latifolium,  Br. 
Phippsia  algida,  Br. 
Trisetum  subspicatum,  P.  de  B. 
[HieroMoe  alpina,  L.  (Hayes  Sound,  F.)  ] 
Alopecurus  alpinus,  L. 
Poa  abbreviata,  Br. 

„    cenisea,  All. 

Festuca  ovina,  L.  var.  brevifolia. 
Glyceria  angustata,  Br. 
[Poa  ccesia,  Sm.  var.  (Twin  Glacier,  Hayes  Sound,  H.)  ] 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  313 

MOSSES  AND  JUNGERMANNIJZ. 
BY  W.  MITTEN,  A.L.S. 

A  SMALL  collection  of  Mosses  and  Jungermannise,  made  by  the 
naturalists  attached  to  the  late  Polar  Expedition,  was  placed 
in  my  hands  for  examination.  A  portion  of  this  collection 
was  made  at  some  of  the  North  Greenland  ports,  where 
the  ships  touched  on  their  way  north  ;  but  this  enumeration 
is  confined  to  the  specimens  brought  back  from  Smith  Sound, 
and  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Basin,  or  in  other  words,  from 
an  area  lying  between  the  seventy-eighth  and  eighty-third 
parallels  of  north  latitude.  Captain  Feilden's  collection  con- 
sists of  twenty-two  species  of  mosses. 

Dwtichwm  inclinatum,  Sw. — Floeberg  Beach,  lat,  82° 
27'  N. ;  with  young  fruit.  This  moss  is  seldom  wanting  in 
collections  made  in  the  Arctic  regions,  and  although,  in  an 
exceptional  case,  it  is  found  on  the  sea  shore  in  North  Britain, 
near  Dundee,  it  is  throughout  Europe  and  North  America  a 
Subalpine  and  Alpine  species.  In  North  Africa  it  is  found 
on  the  Abyssinian  mountains,  and  in  Thibet  it  ascends  to 
the  elevation  of  18,700  feet  on  the  top  of  Hera  La  ;  but  it  has 
not  been  recorded  from  any  localities  south  of  the  equator.  In 
this  respect  it  differs  from  its  congener,  D.  capillaceum,  also 
commonly  found  amongst  Arctic  mosses,  and  which  ascends 
to  equal  elevation  in  India,  and  to  14,000  feet  on  the  Andes. 
But  it  is  also  found  in  mountains  of  much  less  elevation  than 
that  which  would  appear  to  be  required  by  D.  inclinatum  ; 
and  it  is  probably  generally  distributed,  for  it  occurs  on  the 
Cameroons  mountain  in  equatorial  Africa,  and  is  found  in 
New  Zealand. 

Dicranoweisia  crispula^  Hedw. — Payer  Harbour,  lat. 
78°  42'  N.  ;  a  tall  state  not  in  fruit.  Like  the  Distichium, 
this  moss  perfects  its  fruit  in  Arctic  regions ;  completely 
fruited  specimens  were  gathered  by  Parry  in  Spitsbergen, 
and  others  in  Davis  Straits  by  Mr.  Taylor.  In  Europe  and 


314  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

North  America  this  species  is  entirely  Subalpine  and  Alpine, 
and  it  does  not  appear  to  pass  southward  beyond  the  northern 
temperate  zone.  A  nearly  resembling  species  is  found  on  the 
Andes,  and  -two  others  on  the  Himalaya ;  in  Antarctic  regions 
it  is  represented  by  a  species  so  similar  that  it  was  at  first 
considered  in  the  '  Flora  Antarctica '  to  be  the  same.  All  the 
species  are  very  similar,  and  the  South  American  were  placed 
in  the  section  Isocarpus,  of  the  genus  Dicranum.  In  M. 
Schimper's  first  edition  of  the  6  Synopsis  of  European  Mosses  * 
the  group  of  species,  of  which  D.  crispula  is  the  largest, 
formed  his  section  Euweisia,  of  the  genus  Weisia ;  but  in 
the  second  edition  of  the  same  work  they  are  removed  from  the 
genus  Weisia,  and  now  bear  the  generic  name  here  used  for 
the  species,  although  still  considered  by  him  to  belong  to  the 
family  Weisiece. 

Rhacomitrium  lanuginosum.  Dill. — Payer  Harbour, 
lat.  78°  42'  N. ;  barren.  The  specimen  is  but  moderately 
hoary,  and  as  usual  in  Arctic  specimens  quite  barren ;  although 
a  moss  which  abounds  in  Subalpine  and  Alpine  situations,  it 
is  widely  dispersed  in  the  plains  of  Europe,  occurring  even  on 
tiled  buildings  but  little  above  the  sea  level.  Antarctic 
specimens  are  usually  more  hoary,  and  have  received  various 
names,  on  the  presumption  of  their  being  distinct ;  Chilian 
specimens  were  described  by  De  Notaris  as  R.  senile,  Ant- 
arctic ;  by  C.  Muller  as  R.  geronticum. 

Pottia  Heimii,  Hedw. — Floeberg  Beach ;  with  ripe  capsules. 
These  specimens  show  this  species  in  a  form  very  different 
from  those  so  common  on  the  coasts  of  Britain,  for  the  leaves 
are  oblong  and  obtuse,  and  it  is  only  here  and  there  that  a 
trace  is  observable  of  the  serrulation  usually  so  evident ;  the 
lower  leaves  are  very  short  and  very  widely  ovate,  with  the 
nerve  vanishing  below  the  apex,  and  the  rather  thick  apiculus 
of  the  operculum  does  not  exceed  in  length  half  the  diameter 
of  the  mouth  of  the  capsule.  Specimens  gathered  in  Beechey 
Island  by  Doctor  Lyall  do  not  differ  from  the  usual  European 
states,  except  that,  as  in  the  case  of  those  from  Floeberg  Beach, 
the  foliage  is  more  distinctly  bordered  with  the  paler  cells. 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  315 

In  Britain  this  species  is  exclusively  maritime,  but  it  is 
found  in  inland  stations  on  the  continent  of  Europe  as  well 
as  in  British  North  America ;  and  it,  or  some  other  species  so 
closely  resembling  it  as  to  have  been  mistaken  for  it,  has 
been  brought  from  Fuegia,  but,  like  many  other  species  be- 
longing to  the  family  of  Tortuloid  mosses,  it  is  not  recorded 
from  the  United  States. 

Tortula  (Barbula)  icmadophila,  Schimper. — Floeberg 
Beach ;  a  few  small  barren  stems  amongst  Distichium  inclina- 
tum ;  Mushroom  Point,  in  the  same  condition  amongst 
Zygotrickia  leucostoma.  This  species  has  not  before  been 
seen  amongst  Arctic  mosses,  but  fine  specimens  with  fruit 
were  in  some  sets  of  Drummond's  Musci  Americani,  No.  139, 
as  T.  fallax,  from  banks  of  rivers  near  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
In  Europe,  so  far  as  known,  it  is  Subalpine  or  Alpine. 

T.  (Zygotrickia)  leucostoma,  Brown. — Mushroom  Point, 
lat.  82°  29'  12"  N. ;  July  1876;  with  perfected  capsules. 
Originally  described  by  Brown  in  the  Appendix  to  Parry's  first 
voyage  as  a  Barbula,  it  was  considered  by  Bridsl  the  type 
of  a  new  genus  on  account  of  the  peristomial  teeth  being  con- 
nected below  by  trabecula3 ;  and  he  thought  Hooker  and 
Grreville,  who  say,  in  the  '  Edinburgh  Journal  of  Science,' 
under  the  name  of  Tortula  leucostoma,  that  the  lower  half 
of  the  peristome  is  united  into  a  tube,  were  wrong,  and  seems 
himself  surprised  that  Brown  should  have  overlooked  the 
important  distinction.  The  species  is  entirely  Arctic,  and 
belongs  to  the  same  group  of  species  as  the  common  European 
Tortula  subulata,  a  group  which  may  be  said  to  have  the 
foliage  and  habit  of  Pottia  with  the  capsules  and  peristome  of 
Syntrichia. 

T.  (Syntrichia)  ruralis,  Linn. — Mushroom  Point ;  a  frag- 
ment adhering  to  a  piece  of  Peltigera.  Common  amongst 
Arctic  mosses,  but  always  sterile.  Widely  spread  in  temperate 
Europe  from  the  sea  to  Subalpine  regions.  Inhabits  British 
North  America ;  but  appears  to  be  rare  in  the  United  States, 
and  has  not  been  traced  farther  southwards. 

Didymodon    rubellus,   Roth.  —  Floeberg    Beach,   with 


316  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

Bryum  Broiunii ;  very  small  and  barren.  A  very  variable 
moss  in  size.  Small  states  .have  the  point  of  the  leaf  nearly 
entire  ;  but  there  is  always  some  trace  of  the  teeth,  which  are 
so  evident  in  the  larger  forms.  The  presence  of  these  teeth 
with  rusty  foliage,  and  the  habit  of  the  whole  moss,  seem  to 
indicate  a  close  affinity  with  several  Andean  species  ;  and  the 
Austral  Tortula  serrulata,  Hook,  et  Grev.,  in  which  the 
peristome  is  more  decidedly  that  of  Tortula.  D.  rubellus  is 
in  Europe  from  the  sea  to  the  highest  mountains  a  common 
moss,  and  it  is  found  also  in  North  Africa  and  Northern  India 
as  well  as  in  British  North  America,  but  is  said  to  be  rare  in 
the  United  States.  A  very  similar  species  is  found  in 
central  America,  and  another  in  New  Zealand,  but  it  cannot 
be  said  to  be  distinctly  traced  south  of  the  Equator. 

Encalypta  rhabdocarpa,  Schw. — Floeberg  Beach  ;  with 
young  fruit.  Mushroom  Point ;  adhering  to  a  fragment  of 
Peltigera,  with  capsule  past  maturity;  July,  1876.  A 
boreal  Subalpine  and  Alpine  species,  which  in  America  does 
not  reach  the  United  States. 

Voitia  hyperborea,  Grev.  et  Am. — Floeberg  Beach ;  in 
fine  condition,  with  fruit  in  several  stages.  In  one  of  the 
specimens  of  this  elegant  moss  the  stems  are  a  portion  of  a 
tuft  more  than  two  inches  in  height.  A  single  abnormal 
capsule  is  present  among  the  specimens ;  it  has  the  point 
produced  into  an  erect  beak,  which  is  about  three  times 
longer  than  the  diameter  of  the  capsule :  the  calyptra  had 
been  removed. 

Splachnum  Wormskioldii,  Hornem.  —  Hayes  Sound, 
Floeberg  Beach,  and  Mushroom  Point ;  all  fertile.  An 
elegant  Arctic  species  which  in  Europe  reaches  the  Scandi- 
navian mountains. 

Tetraplbdon  urceolatus,  B.  and  S. — Mushroom  Point, 
and  Port  Foulke.  This  species  is  not  known  to  grow  further 
south  than  the  Alps,  and  although  found  in  British  North 
America,  it  does  not  occur  in  the  United  States.  Its  congener, 
T.  mnioides,  which  grows  also  in  the  same  Arctic  and  Alpine 
regions,  but  which  also  is  able  to  maintain  itself  at  consider- 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  317 

ably  less  altitudes,  and  has  been  gathered  in  Patagonia, 
would  thus  seem  to  be,  like  Distichium  capillaceum,  enabled, 
by  its  capacity  to  exist  and  mature  its  fructification  in  com- 
paratively lower  and  warmer  situations,  to  attain  a  much 
more  extensive  distribution. 

Bartramia  (Philonotis)  fontana,  Lin. — Floeberg  Beach ; 
a  very  small  state,  barren,  growing  with  Voitia  hyperborea. 
Everywhere  distributed  in  northern  and  temperate  Europe 
and  North  America,  but  although  found  in  North  Africa 
it  does  not  seem  to  pass  south  of  the  equator. 

Bryum  pendulum,  Hornsch. — Dumbell  Harbour,  lat. 
82°  30'  N.,  with  unripe  fruit.  Frequent  amongst  Arctic 
mosses  and  widely  distributed  throughout  temperate  Europe, 
it  probably  continues  through  the  Andes  and  reaches  Ant- 
arctic regions,  being  a  species  able  to  grow  as  well  on  the 
sea  shore  as  upon  the  loftier  mountains. 

B.  Brownii,  Br.  et  Schimp. — Floeberg  Beach  ;  originally 
described  by  Brown  as  Pohlia  bryoides  from  Melville  Island, 
it  has  since  been  found  on  the  Dovrefield  Mountains. 

B.  calophyllum,  Brown. — Floeberg  Beach,  and  Payer 
Harbour ;  barren.  Long  supposed  to  be  an  Arctic  species  ; 
it  has  in  recent  times  been  found  to  occur  on  the  western 
shores  of  Britain,  and  in  some  few  localities  on  the  European 
continent. 

Timmia  austriaca,  Hedw. — Floeberg  Beach  and  Payer 
Harbour ;  barren. 

Myurella  apiculata,  Hueb.  —  Floeberg  Beach,  with 
Pogonatum  alpinum',  and  a  fragment  on  Peltigera  from 
Mushroom  Point ;  all  barren. 

Orthothecium  chryseum,  Schwaegr.  —  Floeberg  Beach 
with  Voitia  hyperborea ;  barren.  In  Europe  an  Alpine 
moss  found  in  the  Scandinavian  mountains  and  Carinthian 
Alps. 

Stercodon  plicatilis,  Mitt. — Mushroom  Point ;  adhering  to 
a  fragment  of  Peltigera ;  barren.  Described  first  in  the 
<  Linnaaan  Society's  Journal,'  v.  viii.,  from  specimens  gathered 


318  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

in  Davis  Straits  and  the  Rocky  Mountains :  the  distribution  of 
the  species  seems  not  yet  ascertained. 

Camptothecium  nitens,  Schreb. — Floeberg  Beach  ;  barren. 
More  plentiful  in  Arctic  America  and  Northern  Europe  than 
in  the  more  temperate  regions :  it  is  found  in  the  plains  and 
ascends  the  Alps. 

Pogonatum  alpinum,  L. — Floeberg  Beach  ;  barren. 

Mr.  Hart's  collection  consists  of  twenty-six  Mosses  and 
one  Jungermannia. 

Distichium  inclinatum,  Sw. — Winter-quarters,  H.M.S. 
«  Discovery,*  lat.  81°  44'  N. 

Rhacomilrium  lanuginosum,  Linn. — Hayes'  Sound,  lat. 
78°  52'  N. 

Tortula  (Zygotrichia)  leucostoma,  Brown. — St.  Patrick's 
Bay,  lat.  81°  46'  N. ;  with  Orthothecium  chryseum. 

Orthotrichum  speciosum,  Nees.  —  Winter  -  quarters, 
H.M.S.  '  Discovery ' ;  barren. 

Voitia  hyperborea,  Grrev.  et  Arn. — Musk  Ox  Bay,  lat.  81° 
40' N. 

Tetraplodon  mnioides,  L. — With  the  preceding,  very 
small  and  short,  but  perfectly  fruiting. 

T.  urceolatus,  B.  et  S. — Musk  Ox  Bay. 

Splachnum  Wormskioldii.,  Hornem. — Winter-quarters, 
H.M.S.  '  Discovery,'  and  Hayes  Sound. 

S.  vasculosum,  L. — Musk  Ox  Bay;  very  small  and  short, 
but  fertile. 

Aulucomnion  turgidum,  Wahl. — Hayes'  Sound  ;  barren. 

Leptobryum  pyriforme,  Linn. — Hayes'  Sound ;  with  fruit. 

Bryum  (Webera)  longicollum,  Sw. — Hayes'  Sound  ;  with 
old  capsules. 

B.  (W.)  crudum,  Dicks. — Hayes' Sound;  barren. 

B.  arcticum,  Brown. — Musk  Ox  Bay. 

B.  Brownii,  B.  et  S. — Same  locality. 

B.  ceneum,  Blytt. — Winter-quarters  H.M.S.  c  Discovery.' 
This  species  very  closely  resembles  small  states  of  B.  pollens. 

B.  calophyllum,  Brown. — Winter-quarters,  H.M.S.  *  Dis- 
covery.' 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  319 

Timmia     austriaca,    Hedw. — Winter-quarters,   H.M.S. 
'  Discovery ' ;  barren. 

Orthothecium  chryseum,  Schw. — St.  Patrick's  Bay,  Hayes' 
Sound  ;  all  short  stems  and  barren. 

0.  rubellum.  Mitt. — Musk  Ox  Bay;  growing  with  Tetra- 
plodon  urceolatus ;  barren. 

Stercodon    plicatilis,    Mitt. — Winter-quarters,    H.M.S. 
'  Discovery ' ;  barren. 

Amblystegiun    uncinatum,    Hedw.  —  Winter-quarters, 
H.M.S.  <  Discovery.' 

A.  lycopodioides,  Schw. — Winter-quarters,  H.M.S.  'Dis- 
covery ; '  barren  and  small. 

.     A.    (Acroceratium)    trifarium,    Wet.    et    M. — Hayes' 
Sound  ;  barren. 

A  (A.)  sarmentosum,  Wahl. — Hayes'  Sound  ;  a  very  small 
short  state ;  barren. 

Brachythecium     cirrhosum,     Schw.  —  Winter-quarters 
H.M.S.  ;  Discovery  ; '  in  very  small  quantity  ;  barren. 

Blepharozia  trichophylla,  Linn. — Hayes'  Sound  ;  barren. 


ENUMERATION  OF  THE  FUNGI 

COLLECTED  DURING  THE  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION  OF  1875  AND  1876. 

BY  THE  REV.  M.  J.  BERKELEY,  M.A.,  F.L.S. 

THE  collection  consists  of  twenty-six  species,  of  which  I  have 
been  able  with  tolerable  certainty  to  determine  all  but  two ; 
at  least  I  have  indicated  the  closest  affinities  in  one  or  two 
which  were  difficult  cases  from  the  condition  of  the  speci- 
mens, if  there  is  some  doubt  as  to  the  exact  species  to  which 
they  are  referred.  Of  the  twenty-six  species  seventeen  are 
widely  distributed,  and  seven  hitherto  undescribed,  besides 


320  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

the  two  which  I  have  been  unable  to  determine.  Of  the 
new  species  two  at  least  are  very  interesting,  Agaricus 
Feildeni  and  Urnula  Hartii.  The  former  belongs  to  a 
group  very  little  understood,  and  I  have,  therefore,  to  regret 
that  the  specimens  were  so  roughly  dried  that  some  of  the 
characters  are  more  or  less  obscure ;  the  latter  is  a  new  form 
of  the  curious  genus  Urnula,  Fr.,  and  so  exactly  like  the  figure 
in  '  Flora  Danica,'  referred  by  Fries  as  a  variety  to  Peziza 
ciborium,  that  it  is  very  probable  that  the  Danish  may  be 
identical  with  the  Arctic  plant.  The  occurrence  of  Chceto- 
mium  glabrum  on  the  walls  of  the  cabins  of  the  '  Alert '  in 
such  abundance  is  very  curious.  In  this  country  it  is  widely 
diffused  not  only  on  papered  walls,  but  on  bare  stone, 
basket-work,  &c.,  and  it  is  remarkable  that  the  sporidia  are 
notably  smaller  in  the  Arctic  specimens.  Agaricus  Feildeni, 
which  occurred  several  times,  is  probably  esculent,  as  is  cer- 
tainly the  case  with  Russula  integra.  I  ought,  perhaps,  to 
apologise  for  describing  A.  sphcerosporus  and  A.  Bello- 
tianus  from  single  specimens,  but  the  characters  are  such 
as  to  separate  them  from  all  allied  species  which  have  been 
previously  described. 

There  are  two  observations  which  it  is  but  justice  to  add 
to  the  above  notes.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  take  into 
consideration  the  extreme  difficulty  under  which  collectors 
labour  in  Polar  regions.  The  room  on  board  is  necessarily 
very  limited,  and  the  damp  atmosphere  of  the  cabins  pecu- 
liarly unfavourable  to  drying  plants,  added  to  which  the 
numerous  matters  constantly  in  hand  make  it  impossible  to 
change  the  drying  papers  frequently  enough  to  insure  the 
absorption  of  all  the  moisture,  without  which  specimens 
never  turn  out  in  good  condition. 

It  was,  moreover,  impossible  to  give  any  information  as 
to  the  edible  qualities  of  any  species  which  occurred,  as  the 
number  of  individuals  was  extremely  small  and  sometimes 
confined  to  a  single  specimen.  The  wonder  is  that,  under 
the  circumstances,  so  much  was  done  in  a  department  which 
presents  peculiar  difficulties. 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  321 

1.  Agaricus  (Omphalia)  umbilicatus,  Schceff.  t.   207, 
Fr.  Hym.   Eur.  p.   155.     On  peaty  soil.      Mount  Prospect, 
Discovery  Bay ;  lat.  81°  41'  N. ;  H.  C.  Hart.    Spores  minute, 
slightly  kidney-shaped. 

2.  A.    (Omphalia)   umbeUiferus,   L.      On    peat.      The 
yellow   form.      Proven   with   Peltigera,   Disco,   July   1875. 
Proven,  July  1875,  Discovery  Bay  ;  H.  C.  Hart.     Upernivik, 
July  22,   1875;   H.  W.  Feilden.     Pileus  tomentose.     Stem 
thickest  below,  tomentose  about  two  lines  high.     The  speci- 
mens are  small,  but  mostly  well  developed.     In  those  from 
Discovery  Bay  the  gills  are  so  thickened  as  to  be  almost 
subglobose.      The  species  is  very  common  in  mountainous 
countries,  and  is  sometimes  extremely  beautiful. 

3.  A.  (Omphalia)  sphcerosporus,  B.  Pileo  membranaceo, 
profunde  umbilicato  ;  lamellis  latis  distantibus,  decurrentibus ; 
sporis  globosis  pedicellatis.     On  moss.     Upernivik;    H.  C. 
Hart.     About  one  inch  across. 

4.  A.   (Clitopilus)   undatus.      Fr.  Hym.    Eur.  p.  199. 
Ic.  tab.  96,  fig.  4.     Cape  Sabine,  August  1,   1875  ;  H.  W. 
Feilden. 

5.  A.   (Naucoria)  Bellotianus,   B.      Nov.   sp.      Bellot 
Island,  August  14,  1876  ;  H.  W.  Feilden. 

6.  A.   (Tubaria)  furfuraceus,    P.    Syn.   p.  454  ;    Fr. 
Hym.  Eur.,  p.  272.     Westward  Ho !  Valley ;  lat.  82°  40'  N. ; 
H.  W.  Feilden.     Mount  Prospect,  81°  41'  N. ;  H.  C.  Hart. 

7.  A.  (Tubaria)  pellucidus,  Bull.     Tab.  550,  fig.  2  ;  Fr. 
Hym.  Eur.,  p.   273.     Hayes'  Sound;  lat.  79°  N.,  August  4, 
1875;  H.  C.  Hart. 

8.  A.   (Stropharia)    Feildeni,   B.      Nova   sp.      Bellot 
Island,   lat.    81°   41'    N. ;    August    1876;    H.  W.    Feilden, 
Mount   Prospect,  Discovery  Harbour,  July  4,  1876  ;  H.  C. 
Hart. 

9.  Hygrophorus  virgineus.      Fr.   Hym.    Eur.,   p.  413. 
Small  specimens,  September  29,  1875  ;  lat.  82°  27' ;  H.  W. 
Feilden. 

10.  H.    miniatus.      Fr.    Hym.    Eur.  p.    418.      Hayes' 
Sound,  August  4,  1875 ;  H.  C.  Hart. 

VOL.    II.  Y 


APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

11.  Russula  Integra.     Fr.   Hym.  Eur.  p.  450.     Bellot 
Island;  lat.  81°  41'  N.,  August  13,  1876  ;  H.  W.  Feilden. 

12.  Cantharellus  mucigenus.     Fr.  Hym.  Eur.  p.  460. 
On  moss  from  Discovery  Bay ;  H.  C.  Hart. 

13.  Merulius   aurantiacus.     Fr.  Hym.    Eur.    p.   591  ; 
Kl.  in  Berk.,  Eng.  Fl.  v.,  p.   128  ;  Discovery  Bay,  81°  41' 
N  ;  H.  C.  Hart. 

14.  Lycoperdon  cretaceum,  B.     Nov.  sp. ;  Bellot  Island, 
August  14,  1876 ;  H.  W.  Feilden. 

15.  L.    atropurpureum.      Vitt.    Monog.    Lye.    p.    42, 
tab.  ii.  fig.  6 ;  Discovery  Bay,  Mount  Prospect ;  H.  C.  Hart ; 
Bellot  Island,  August  18,  1876,  and  Hayes'  Sound,  August  4, 
1875  ;  H.  W.  Feilden. 

16.  Trichobasis    Pyrolce,    B.    Out.     p.     332;     Uredo 
Pyrolae,  Grrev.  H.  Ed.,  p.  440  ;  Proven,  on  leaves  of  Pyrola. 

17.  Stilbum   arcticum,   B.      Nov.  sp.   on    the   stem  of 
Agaricus  sphcerosporus,  B. ;  Upernivik  ;  H.  C.  Hart. 

18.  Peziza  stercorea.     P.  Obs.  2,  p.  89  :   Fr.  Syst.  Myc. 
ii.  p.  87  ;  Cooke,  Micr.  fig.  147  ;  Discovery  Bay  on  dung  of 
musk-ox  ;  H.  C.  Hart. 

19.  Ascobolus  furfuraceus.     P.  Obs.  1.  t.  4,  f.  3-6.     On 
dung  of  musk-ox  with  preceding. 

20.  Urnula  Hartii,   B.     Nov.  sp.     Upernivik  ;    H.   C. 
Hart,     (rrinnell  Land  ;  lat.  82°  29'  N. ;  July  1876  ;  H.  W. 
Feilden. 

210  Chcetomium  glabrum,  B.  and  Br.  Ann.  Nat.  Hist., 
May  1873,  p.  349,  tab.  x.,  fig.  15.  On  damp  surface  in 
cabin  of  H.M.S.  <  Alert '  at  Floeberg  Beach  ;  lat.  82°  27'  N. 

22.  Venturia  myrtilli,  Cooke.     Journ.  of  Bot.,  August 
1866,  tab.  50,  fig.  4.     On  semiputrid  leaves,  Discovery  Bay; 
H.  C.  Hart. 

23.  Sphcerella    lineolata,    De    Not.    Sphaeria    lineolata 
Desm.   PI.    Crypt,  No.   1263;    Cooke,  I.e.  tab.  51,  fig.    31. 
On  grass  with  the  last. 

24.  Dothidea  bullulata,  B.    Nov.  sp.     On  leaves,  Disco  ;. 
H.  C.  Hart.     Some  species  of  Mucor  appears  to  have  oc- 
curred with  Choetomium  glabriwi. 


No.  XIV.  BOTANY.  323 


AND  DIATOMACE&. 
BY  G.  DICKIE,  M.A.,  M.D.,  F.L.S. 

DURING  the  Arctic  Expedition  of  1875-76  but  few  species  of 
the  higher  orders  of  marine  algse  were  collected  beyond  78° 
N.  lat.  ;  the  following  are  all  that  have  come  under  my 
notice  among  the  collections  made  by  Captain  Feilden  and 
Mr.  Hart  :— 

Desmarestia  aculeata,  Lamour. 
Laminaria  longicruris,  De  la  Pyl. 

„         caperata,  „ 

Dictyosiphon  fceniculaceus,  Grev. 
Chordaria  flagelliformiS)  Ag.1 
Ectocarpus  siliculosus,  Lyngb. 
Chcetopteris  plumosa,        „ 

These  all  belong  to  the  olive-  coloured  series,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  the  two  species  of  Laminaria,  are  well  known 
European  forms. 

Dr.  Moss  and  Captain  Feilden  sent  to  me  fragments  of 
stems  of  Laminaria  from  the  mud  of  a  raised  beach  or  '  shell 
flat  '  200  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  sea  at  Floeberg 
Beach,  N.  lat.  82°  27',  W.  long.  61°  22',  also  from  mud-beds 
in  Cane  Valley,  Grinnell  Land,  N.  lat.  82°  33'.  The  frag- 
ments seem  to  belong  to  both  species  of  Laminaria  above 
mentioned,  and  Captain  Feilden  states  that  they  retained 
the  peculiar  marine  smell  as  strongly  as  in  recent  specimens. 
The  beds  from  which  the  specimens  were  taken  are  exposed, 
by  the  action  of  a  stream,  to  a  depth  of  not  less  than  thirty 
feet  in  thickness:  along  with  them  were  found  shells  of 
My  a  truncata,  Astarte  borealis,  &c. 

I  could  not  find  any  trace  of  marine  algae  belonging  to 
the  red  series. 

1  The  specimens  very  dwarf  and  fragmentary,  nevertheless  I  think  they 
must  be  referred  to  this  species. 


324  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

The  most  complete  list  of  the  marine  algae  of  Spitsbergen 
known  to  me  is  one  given  by  Professor  J.  Gr.  Agardh,  com- 
prehending seventeen  olive  and  twenty  of  the  red — therefore 
comparatively  rich  when  contrasted  with  those  above  enu- 
merated :  all  the  species  are  also  included  in  the  Spitsbergen 
list  with  one  exception,  viz.  Dictyosiphon. 

The  marine  species  of  the  green  series  found  by  the 
naturalists  of  the  Expedition  are — 

Ulva  latissima,  L.,  very  fragmentary. 
Enteromorpha  clathrata,  Grrev. 
Chaetomorpha  Melagonium,  Web.  and  Mohr. 

These  have  very  wide  distribution  in   European  and  other 
seas. 

There  are  also  representatives  of  several  genera  found  in 
fresh  water,  namely  : — 

Prasiola  Sauteri,  Menegh. 
Zygogonium  Agardhii,  Eabh. 
Closterium  lunula,  Miiller. 
Zonotrichia,  species. 
Nostoc  commune,  Vaucher. 

„       aureum,  Ktz. 
Hormosiphon  arcticum,  Berk. 
Hormospora,  species. 
Chroococcus,  species. 
Gloeocapsa  Magma,  Ktr. 
Oscillaria  tennis,  Ag. 
Hypheothrix  coriacea,  Ktz. 
„  obscura,  n.  sp. 

Jhthonoblastus,  sp. 
Tolypothrix,  sp. 

The  most  abundant  of  these  appears  to  be  Nostoc  com- 
mune, which  occurs  in  Spitsbergen,  and  is  widely  diffused  in 
Europe,  as  indeed  also  are  the  other  genera. 

Gloecapsa  I  have  previously  seen  as  found  at  Disco  ;  the 
specimens  sent  to  me  by  Dr.  Moss  were  found  at  82°  27'  N. 


No.  XIV. 


BOTANY. 


325 


It  thus  appears  that  certain  well-known  European  genera 
Ii5i\v  their  representatives  in  the  cold  marshes  of  lands  beyond 
80°  N. 

The  Diatomacece  are  also,  on  the  whole,  well  represented 
in  the  collections  made  by  Captain  Feilden,  Dr.  Moss,  and 
Mr.  Hart. 

I  have  observed  the  following  genera,  and  it  may  be 
sufficient  to  record  here  merely  the  number  of  species  of  each 
genus,  a  complete  list  of  names  being  preserved  for  full 
report  elsewhere. 

LIST  OF  DIATOMS,  BEYOND  LAT.  78°  N. 


Name  of  Germ 

5 

No.  of  Species 

Name  of  Geuu 

i 

No.  of  Species 

Achnanthes  . 

2 

Navicnla 

13 

A  chnanthidium 

2 

Nitzschia     . 

3 

AmpldproTa 

2 

Ofthosira     . 

1 

Amphora 
Biddulpliia 

4 
1 

Pleurosigma 
Podosira 

2 
1 

Chactoceros  . 

2 

Podosphcenia 

1 

Cocconcis 

4 

Raj)honeis    . 

1 

Coscinodixcus 

4 

Rliabdonema 

2 

('ijinhella      . 

1 

Rhoicosphenia 

1 

Dcnticula    . 

1 

Surirclla 

3 

Diatoma 

1 

Stauroneis   . 

3 

kiinotia 

2 

Synedra 

4 

Fragilaria  . 

2 

Tha  lassosira 

1 

Grammatop  li  or  a 

2 

Triceratium 

1 

Melosira 

1 

Tryblionella 

1 

Mcridion 

1 

Making  in  all  thirty-one  genera  and  seventy  species  so  far  as 
I  have  observed  ;  most  of  them  are  marine,  those  of  fresh- 
water being  fewer. 

P.  T.  Clevej  in  a  communication  to  the  Swedish  Academy 
of  Sciences,  March  12,  1873,  states  that  the  whole  number 
found  in  the  Arctic  Sea  is  181  ;  but  he  considers  seventeen 
of  these  as  of  doubtful  occurrence  in  that  region.  In  the 
same  paper  he  specifies  those  found  at  Spitsbergen,  which 
seems,  as  in  the  case  of  the  higher  algoe  already  alluded  to, 
to  be  richer  in  species  than  the  parts  of  the  Arctic  Sea  visited 
by  the  late  Expedition. 


326  APPENDIX.  No.  XIV. 

The  presence  and  abundance  of  these  minute  organisms, 
with  their  exquisitely  sculptured  silicious  investments,  is  a 
point  of  much  interest  in  relation  to  the  existence  of  animal 
life.  It  has  been  long  known  that  they  abound  in  the  ali- 
mentary canal  of  certain  radiata  and  bivalve  mollusca,  and 
where  they  are  abundant,  which  seems  to  be  the  rule,  this 
implies  the  possible  presence  of  certain  animal  forms  which 
^find  abundant  pabulum  in  the  organic  contents  of  the 
Diatoms ;  these  lower  are  preyed  upon  by  those  of  higher 
type,  and  we  thus  have  a  very  notable  and  interesting  chain 
of  dependence  and  an  illustration  of  the  proverbial  '  power  of 
the  littles.' 

It  is,  therefore,  not  surprising  to  find  that  at  least  sixteen 
species  of  bivalve  mollusca  were  collected  beyond  80°  N.  by 
the  naturalists  of  the  Expedition. 

[The  botanical  collections  treated  of  in  the  preceding  pages  were 
mainly,  though  not  entirely,  made  in  Grinnell  Land  between  the  latitudes 
of  81°  40'  N.,  and  83°  6'  N.  The  vicinity  of  Discovery  Bay,  and  as  far 
north  as  lat.  81°  50',  was  carefully  botanised  by  Mr.  Hart,  and  from  that 
latitude  to  the  eighty-third  parallel  the  collections  were  made  by  the 
writer.  Though  the  period  for  collecting  phanerogamic  plants  was  con- 
fined to  a  month  or  six  weeks  in  the  summer  of  1876,  yet  it  is  probable 
that  few  flowering  plants  escaped  observation,  and  that  the  collections 
brought  back  give  an  accurate  and  adequate  idea  of  the  phanerogamic 
flora  of  Grinnell  Land.  The  number  of  species  of  lichens  obtained  is 
astonishing,  yet  this  result  ma}7  fairly  be  considered  only  as  a  contribu- 
tion to  the  lichenology  of  Grinnell  Land,  and  not  by  any  means  an 
exhaustive  collection;  the  same  remark  applies  to  the  collections  of 
fungi,  confervas,  and  diatomaceae. — H.  W.  FEILDEN.] 


No.  XV. 


GEOLOGY. 


327 


No.  XV. 
GEOLOGY. 

ON  THE  GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE  OF  THE   COASTS  OF 
GRINNELL  LAND  AND  HALL  BASIN, 

VISITED    BY    THE    BKITISH    AECTIC    EXPEDITION    OF    1875-6. 


BY  C.  E.  DE  RANGE,  F.G.S.,  Assoc.  INST.  C.E., 

of  the  Geological  Survey  of  England  and  Wales 

AND 

H.  W.  FEILDEN,  F.G.S.,  F.R.G.S.,   C.M.Z.S., 

Naturalist  to  the  Expedition. 

THE  collection  of  rocks  and  fossils,  more  than  2,000  in 
number,  made  during  the  expedition  in  the  lands  lying 
between  the  parallels  of  78°  and  83°  6'  North,  enable  the 
following  sequence  of  formations  to  be  established  for  these 
far  Arctic  Lands  : — 


GRINNELL   LAND,    &C. 

Glacio-marine  beds. 
Miocene    shales     and     clays 
with  thirty  feet  coal  seam. 
Carboniferous  limestone. 
Dana  Bay  beds. 
Upper  Silurians. 
Lower  Silurians. 
Cape  Rawson  beds. 
Fundamental  gneiss,  &c. 


N.  AMERICA  EQUIVALENTS. 
Glacio-marine  beds. 


Carboniferous  limestone. 
Devonian. 

Quebec  (Llandeilo)  group. 
Huronian  ? 
Lauren  tian  ? 


328  APPENDIX.  No.  XV. 

PALEOZOIC  ROCKS. — The  ancient  fundamental  gneiss  and 
crystalline  rocks,  that  have  been  described  by  so  many 
observers  as  fringing  the  coasts  of  Greenland,  and  underlying 
the  synclinal  of  palaeozoic  rocks  of  the  Parry  Archipelago, 
continue  northwards,  and  form  the  shores  of  Smith  Sound 
on  either  side,  occupying  the  entire  coast  of  Ellesmere  Land 
from  Cape  Isabella  to  Cape  Sabine,  rising  to  a  height  of 
2,000  feet. 

At  Port  Foulke  the  syenitic  and  gneissic  rocks  are  overlaid 
by  sandstone  and  conglomerate,  the  former  largely  rippled, 
and  probably  of  Miocene  age,  overlaid  by  sheets  of  basalt, 
which  have  altered  in  some  cases  into  porcellanite. 

Cape  Rawson  Beds. — A  vast  series  of  azoic  rocks, 
newer  than  the  fundamental  gneiss,  and  probably  unconform- 
able  to  it,  but  older  than  the  fossiliferous  Silurians,  occupy 
the  country  between  Scoresby  Bay  and  Cape  Creswell,  in 
lat.  8*2°  40'  N.,  and  probably  represent  in  time  the  Huronian 
of  North  America,  but  formed  possibly  in  a  different  basin, 
as  they  are  not  present  in  the  Arctic  Archipelago. 

At  Cape  Eawson  the  strata  are  thrown  into  a  series  of 
sharp  anticlinal  folds,  which  range  W.S.W.,  are  abruptly 
terminated  by  sea-cliffs,  as  at  Black  Cape,  Cape  Union,  and 
other  prominent  headlands,  and  exhibit  fine  sections  of  jet- 
black  slates,  in  strong  contrast  to  the  frozen  sea  beneath  and 
the  snow-clad  slopes  above. 

Associated  with  the  slates  are  beds  of  impure  limestones 
frequently  traversed  with  veins  of  quartz  and  chert ;  the 
slates  are  sometimes  exceedingly  well  cleaved,  the  planes  of 
cleavage  being  generally  inclined  at  high  angles,  and  more 
rarely  horizontal,  their  strike  being  N.N.E.  to  S.S.W.  The 
true  dip  of  the  slates  is  almost  invariably  at  very  high  angles. 
These  beds  give  place  further  north  to  a  vast  series  of 
quartzites  and  grits,  which  commence  in  latitude  82°  33'  : 
they  rise  in  Westward  Ho !  Valley  to  ridges  3,000  feet  in 
height.  An  anticlinal  axis  passes  through  this  valley  and 
carries  down  these  strata  beneath  the  carboniferous  limestones 
of  Feilden  Peninsula. 


No.  XV.  GEOLOGY.  ;JiHJ 

Silurian  Limestones. — Mural  cliffs  of  limestone,  with 
conglomerate  at  the  base,  rise  to  a  height  of  more  than  1000 
feet  on  the  east  coast  of  Bache  Island.  These  beds  at  the 
south  end  of  Bache  Island,  as  viewed  from  Buchanan  Strait, 
appear  to  rest  on  syenitic  and  granitoid  rocks,  and  dip  gently 
to  the  N.N.W.  as  far  as  Victoria  Head,  where  a  landing  was 
effected  and  some  fossils  obtained :  the  mural  cliffs,  forming 
the  northern  shore  of  the  island,  consist  of  this  formation,  and 
correspond  in  direction  to  the  strike  of  the  strata. 

The  limestones  of  Norman  Lockyer  Island,  lat.  79°  52'  N., 
at  the  mouth  of  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  dip  at  a  high  angle  to 
the  north.  The  south  side  of  the  island  is  a  steep  bluff  rising 
to  600  feet,  glaciated  at  the  top,  in  a  north  and  south  direc- 
tion. To  the  north  is  a  low  shelving  shore ;  and  between  the 
island  and  the  mainland  there  is  a  fault  bringing  in  the 
basement  conglomerate  beds  of  Bache  Island.  It  is  well  seen 
at  Cape  Prescott,  in  Allman  and  Dobbin  Bays,  Cape  Louis 
Napoleon,  and  Hayes  Point,  as  are  the  limestones,  by  which 
it  is  overlaid. 

A  north-east  anticlinal  passing  through  Cape  Hilgard 
probably  brings  in  older  Silurian  rocks,  as  some  of  the  fossils 
from  this  locality  have  been  determined  by  Mr.  Etheridge  to 
ba  Lower  Silurian  forms  :  Maclurea  magna,  Receptaculites 
occidentalis^  R.  arctica,  Eth.  Several  of  these  types  appear 
to  have  been  previously  brought  from  the  Parry  Archipelago, 
where  there  is  probably  an  unbroken  sequence  from  the 
Lower  Silurian,  through  the  Upper  Silurian  into  the  Devo- 
nian, without  any  physical  break. 

The  Cape  Hilgard  conglomerate  appears  to  correspond  in 
time  and  position  to  the  red  sandstone  and  coarse  grit  under- 
lying the  Silurian  limestones  of  North  Somerset,  which  are 
described  as  like  those  found  between  Wolstenholme  and 
Whale  Sounds,  West  Greenland.  Whether  the  Lower  Silurian 
horizon  is  that  portion  of  the  section  lying  between  the  lime- 
stones and  the  conglomerate  or  grit  bed,  has  not  been  clearly 
made  out  either  in  Grinnell  Land  or  in  the  Arctic  Archi- 
pelago;  but  this  view  is  strongly  supported  by  the  fact  that 


330  APPENDIX.  No.  XV. 

the  basement  beds  in  both  areas  indicate  a  period  of  denuda- 
tion, shallow  water,  or  at  all  events  erosion  of  coast-lines, 
that  no  older  fossiliferous  beds  are  known,  and  that  the 
conglomerate  or  grit  bed  rests  directly  on  the  fundamental 
rock.  Silurian  limestones  continued  to  Cape  Norton  Shaw  : 
both  in  this  locality  and  at  Cape  Barrow  they  contain  a 
numerous  assemblage  of  fossils,  described  in  a  very  exhaustive 
report  by  Mr.  Etheridge.1  Amongst  them  may  be  mentioned 
Favosites  alveolaris,  F.  gothlandica,  Favistella  reticulata, 
Halysites  catenulatus,  var*  feildeni,  Eth.,  Pentamerus 
coppingeri,  Eth. 

On  the  northern  side  of  Scoresby  Bay  the  extension  of 
the  limestone  ceases,  and  the  more  ancient  Cape  Eawson  beds 
rise  to  day.  Whether  the  line  of  junction  is  a  fault,  or  a 
natural  boundary,  is  doubtful ;  of  whatever  character  it  may 
be,  it  is  certain  that  it  traverses  Kennedy  Channel,  and 
reappears  on  the  opposite  coast  in  Hall  Land,  where  its 
situation  is  determined  within  narrow  limits,  trending  from 
Polaris  Bay  to  Newman  Bay.  These  beds  outcrop  on  the 
north  side  of  Thank  God  Harbour,  and  there  is  an  exposure 
of  Silurian  limestones  at  Cape  Tyson  and  Offley  Island  to 
the  south  :  from  this  point  southwards  to  the  great  Humboldt 
glacier,  the  Silurians  form  the  rock  of  the  country,  by  way 
of  Petermann  Fiord,  Bessels  Bay,  Franklin  and  Crozier 
Islands,  and  Capes  Constitution  and  Andrew  Jackson. 

Dana  Bay  Beds. —  Green  slates  associated  with  meta- 
morphosed rocks  belonging  to  the  Cape  Rawson  beds  are  seen 
on  the  slope  below  the  carboniferous  limestone  on  the  neck 
of  Feilden  Peninsula,  but  the  boundary  is  doubtful,  and  may 
be  faulted. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  valley  in  Dana  Bay,  at  the  head 
of  Porter  Bay,  the  carboniferous  limestone  is  repeated  by  a 
strike  fault,  and  the  base  is  not  seen. 

A  small  exposure  of  fossiliferous  beds  was  observed  in  a 
torrent  course,  the  fossils  are  referred  by  Mr.  Etheridge  to 
the  Devonian  era ;  but  as  the  nature  of  the  underlying  rocks 

'  Journal  Geological  Soc.,'  London,  1878. 


No.  XV.  GEOLOGY.  331 

could  not  be  determined,  it  is  doubtful  whether  these  rocks 
represent  the  '  Ursa  stage '  of  Heer,  and  whether  they  form 
the  base  of  the  carboniferous  limestone.  Should  it  be  even- 
tually proved  by  future  researches  that  the  6  Ursa  stage '  is 
absent,  it  would  appear  probable  that  these  beds  were 
only  deposited  further  south. 

The  rocks  lying  above  the  Silurian  limestone  of  the 
Arctic  Archipelago  occur  in  a  synclinal  trough  or  hollow, 
ranging  W.S.W.  and  E.N.E.  from  Banks  Land  through  the 
Parry  Islands.  At  Byam  Martin  Island,  M'Clintock  describes 
two  sandstones,  the  one  red,  finely  stratified,  associated  with 
purple  slate,  resembling  the  red  sandstone  of  North  Somerset, 
Cape  Bunny,  and  that  found  between  Wolstenholme  and 
Whale  Sounds,  W.  Greenland ;  and  another,  fine-grained, 
greyish-yellow  coloured,  resembling  the  coal-bearing  sand- 
stone of  Cape  Hamilton,  Bank's  Land  (Baring  Island).  It 
contains  numerous  casts  of  a  brachiopod,  allied,  according  to 
Dr.  Haughton,  to  Terebratula  (Atrypa\  primipilaris,  Von 
Buch  (and  to  A.  fallax  of  the  carboniferous  rocks  of  Ireland), 
found  abundantly  at  Gerolstein  in  the  Eifel,  now  known  as 
Rhynchonella  primipilaris.  Associated  with  these  later 
sandstones  are  coal-seams  striking  E.N.E.  to  Bathurst  Island. 
The  coals  have  a  lignaceous  texture,  consisting  of  thin  layers 
of  brown  coal  and  jetty-black  glossy  coal,  with  a  wooden  ring 
under  the  hammer. 

The  identity  of  genera  and  of  some  species  of  the  flora  of 
the  pre-carboniferous  limestone  '  Ursa  stage  '  with  those  of 
the  rocks  of  Europe,  lying  immediately  above  the  limestone, 
point  to  the  equable  and  identical  climate  prevailing  over 
very  large  areas  of  the  earth's  surface,  and  to  the  local  and 
temporary  character  of  the  deep  sea  conditions  expressed  by 
the  formation  of  the  mountain  limestone,  in  the  midst  of  a 
long  continental  episode,  marked  by  the  first  rich  land  flora, 
in  the  earth's  history,  which  can  be  traced  both  in  the  old  world 
and  in  the  new,  from  47°  to  74°  and  7 6°  north  lat.,  and  which 
was  as  fully  developed  beyond  the  Arctic  Circle,  as  in  Cent  nil 
Europe  :  the  leaves  of  the  evergreen  tree  Lepidodendra,  and 


332  APPENDIX.  No.  XV. 

the  large  fronds  of  Cardiopteris  frondosa,  being  as  well 
grown  in  the  Arctic  as  those  from  the  Vosges  and  the  south 
of  Iceland. 

Carboniferous  Limestone. — Rocks  of  this  age  occur  in 
Feilden  and  Parry  Peninsulas,  on  the  north  coast  of  Grinnell 
Land,  and  extend  as  far  west  as  Clements  Markham  Inlet, 
attaining  a  height  of  more  than  2,000  feet  at  Mount  Julia, 
and  probably  to  still  greater  height  in  the  United  States 
Range,  which  corresponds  in  direction  with  the  strike  of  the 
beds,  and  probably  continues  in  a  south-westerly  direction, 
across  the  whole  of  the  tract  lying  between  the  limestones  of 
this  age  in  the  synclinal  of  the  Parry  Archipelago.  Amongst 
the  fossils  of  Feilden  Peninsula  may  be  mentioned  Productus 
mesolobus,  P.  costatus,  Spirifer  ovalis,  S.  duplicate  Zaph- 
rentis  like  Cylindrica.  It  is  worthy  of  note  that,  had  the 
strike  of  the  above  limestones  changed  in  direction  northwards, 
it  would  probably  have  been  noticed  by  the  sledge  parties 
that  examined  the  coast  east  and  west  of  this  tract,  and  that, 
assuming  the  same  strike  continues  over  the  Polar  area,  a 
prolongation  of  the  trend  of  these  limestones  would  pass 
through  Spitsbergen,  where  this  formation  has  been  recog- 
nized, and  contains  some  identical  species. 

In  the  Carboniferous  Limestones  occur  a  group  of  cephalo- 
poda, encrinites  and  corals,  that,  judging  by  their  analogues 
in  the  secondary  rocks,  would  indicate  a  warm  climate  ;  and 
unless  the  corals,  which  all  belong  to  the  Palaeozoic  types  of 
the  Rugosa  and  Tabulata  corals,  had  marvellous  powers  of 
adaptation  to  different  climates,  they  prove  a  more  equable 
climate  in  the  world  than  exists  at  the  present  time,  and 
when  taken  with  the  fact  that  the  plants  of  the  '  Ursa  stage  ' 
of  the  Arctic  regions  lived  before  the  deposition  of  the  moun- 
tain limestone  in  that  area,  and  doubtless  in  other  areas, 
and  reappeared  in  the  coal  measures  overlying  those  limestones 
in  Europe  and  North  America,  the  supposition  that  an  equable 
warm  moist  climate  overspread  a  large  surface  of  the  globe 
during  the  whole  of  the  carboniferous  era  becomes  something- 
stronger  than  even  a  working  hypothesis. 


GEOLOGY.  333 

The  Arctic  area  and  North  Eastern  America  are  marked  by 
an  absence  of  Permian  rocks  ;  and  it  is  worthy  of  note  that 
the  strata  of  this  age,  occurring  in  Kansas,  consist  of  con- 
glomerates, shales  with  fossils  allied  to  those  of  the  coal 
measures,  and  beds  of  gypsum  resting  conformably  on  the 
carboniferous,  indicating  shallow  water,  proximity  of  land, 
and  lacustrine  or  inland  sea  conditions.  Our  limited  know- 
ledge of  the  Arctic  regions  renders  it  doubtful  whether  the 
absence  of  the  Permian  in  the  northern  area  indicates  that, 
after  the  deposition  of  the  carboniferous  limestone,  the  sea 
bottom  was  upheaved,  and  formed  continental  land  until  the 
Liassic  era,  or  whether  the  coal  measures,  Permian  and 
Triassic  strata,  were  deposited  or  afterwards  denuded,  before 
the  deposition  of  the  lias  resting  on  the  carboniferous  lime- 
stone of  Eglinton  Isle.  That  the  former  sequence  occurred 
is  supported  by  the  absence  of  the  Triassic  strata  in  the 
Parry  Archipelago. 

In  America,  the  carboniferous  rocks  experienced  a  period 
of  physical  disturbance,  throwing  them  into  folds  and  plica- 
tions, happening  in  pre-triassic  times  as  in  England,  the 
trias  lying  on  the  upturned  and  denuded  edges  of  the 
American  carboniferous. 

There  would  appear  to  b3  little  doubt  that  the  dip  observ- 
able in  the  carboniferous  limestone  of  the  Parry  Archipelago 
was  obtained  before  the  deposition  of  the  lias,  which  occurs 
directly  upon  it  at  various  levels  ;  and  it  would  appear  to 
be  more  probable  that  the  trias  was  never  deposited  over  this 
area,  than  that  it  had  been  formed  and  denuded  away  in  the 
era  intervening  between  plication  of  the  carboniferous  and  the 
subsidence  of  the  land  beneath  the  liassic  sea. 

TERTIARY  ROCKS.  Miocene. — Resting  unconformably  on  the 
azoic  schists  of  Water-course  Bay,  on  the  west  side  of  Smith 
Sound,  in  the  vicinity  of  Discovery  Harbour,  where  the 
'Discovery'  wintered  1874-6,  occurs  a  bed  of  coal  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  feet  in  thickness,  overlaid  by  fine-grained  black 
shale  and  sandstone  from  which  plant  remains  were  collected 


334  APPENDIX. 

by   Feilden,   these  shales  closely  resembling  those   of   Cape 
Staratschin,  in  the  ice  fiord  of  Spitsbergen. 

The  strata  are  laid  bare  in  a  deep  gully  excavated  by 
the  stream  flowing  across  them,  and  are  seen  to  dip  towards 
the  east  at  ten  degrees.  Overlying  the  tertiary  deposits 
occur  beds  of  fine  mud  and  glacial  drift,  with  well-preserved 
shells  of  mollusca  of  species  now  living  in  the  neighbouring- 
seas,  such  as  Saxicava  and  Astarte,  which  beds  rise  to  a 
height  of  no  less  than  1,000  feet  above  the  sea-level,  proving 
a  submergence  of  the  lignite  and  plant-bearing  beds  to  that 
amount,  and  a  subsequent  re-elevation. 

Beds  with  plant-bearing  shales  may  possibly  occur  in 
other  parts  of  Grmnell  Land  not  visited  by  the  Expedition, 
and  those  of  Discovery  Bay  were  not  recognized  until  a 
period  which  only  permitted  a  few  visits  to  that  interesting 
locality.  However,  a  collection  was  made  of  thirty  species,  of 
which  eighteen  are  known  to  be  common  to  the  Miocene 
deposits  of  the  Arctic  Zone,  seventeen  of  them  occurring  in 
Spitsbergen,  and  eight  in  Greenland  ;  the  flora  of  the 
Grinnell  Land  Miocene,  therefore,  more  closely  approximating 
to  that  of  Spitsbergen,  lying  3°  to  4°  of  latitude  further  south, 
than  to  that  of  Greenland,  situated  11°  further  south.  Six 
species  are  common  to  Europe,  four  to  America  (Alaska),  two 
to  Asia. 

The  muddy  shore  of  a  sea  or  river  is  indicated  by  Equise- 
turn  arcticum,  Hr.?  of  Grinnell  Land  and  King  Bay,  Spits- 
bergen, and,  presuming  it  had  a  similar  habitat,  its  nearest  ally 
to  Equisetum  limosum,  Lin.  Conifers  in  both  these  districts 
hold  the  first  place,  four  families  with  the  species  occurring  in 
Grinnell  Land.  Torellia  rigida,  Hr.,  must  have  been  very 
abundant ;  it  was  previously  only  known,  in  a  fragmentary 
condition,  from  Cape  Staratschin  in  Spitsbergen.  It  is 
allied  to  the  genus  Phcenicopsis  of  the  oolitic  Brown  Jura, 
which  forms  a  link  between  the  Cordaites  of  the  carboni- 
ferous and  the  Torellia  of  the  Arctic  Tertiary. 

Taxodium  distichum  miocenum  is  most  abundant,  and 
well-preserved  male  flowers,  resembling  those  of  Spitsbergen, 


No.  XV.  GEOLOGY.  335 

occur,  while  the  genus  is  now  confined  to  Mexico  and  the 
south  of  the  United  States. 

The  discovery  of  two  twigs  of  the  Norway  spruce  (Pinus 
abics)  with  leaves,  in  Grrinnell  Land,  is  of  great  interest,  as 
some  meagre  traces  of  it  had  previously  been  received  from 
Spitsbergen,  and  the  species  doubtless  extended,  in  the  previous 
period,  as  far  as  the  Pole,  if  at  that  epoch  land  extended  so  far. 
The  home  of  this  tree  was  evidently  in  the  north,  and  in  Mio- 
cene times  it  doubtless  had  not  travelled  as  far  south  as  Europe, 
its  first  appearance  being  in  the  Norfolk  Forest-bed,  and  the 
interglacial  lignites  of  Switzerland.  Though  now  a  principal 
constituent  of  our  forests,  its  extreme  northern  limit  is  in 
Scandinavia,  in  latitude  69^°  N.,  and  from  thence  spreads  over 
twenty-five  degrees  of  latitude,  though  confined  in  Miocene 
times  to  the  Arctic  Zone  ;  while  Taxodium  distichum,  now 
confined  to  so  small  an  area,  in  Miocene  times  overspread 
the  northern  hemisphere  from  central  Italy  to  82°  N. 

The  Monocotyledons,  Phragmites  oeningensis,  Br.,  and 
Car  ex  noursoakensis,  Hr.,  of  Grrinnell  Land,  Greenland,  and 
Spitsbergen,  indicate  damp  localities  with  beds  and  sedges, 
the  former  of  a  large  size  with  narrow  leaves  and  a  mid-rib. 

Six  families  of  Dicotyledons  occur,  the  more  abundant 
species  being  Populus  arctica,  Hr.,  which  range  through 
the  whole  Arctic  Zone.  The  presence  of  large  specimens  of 
bark  from  Grrinnell  Land  of  Betula  prisca  prove  that  trees  of 
the  birch  attained  a  considerable  size.  Leaves  and  fruit  of 
Betula  brongniarti,  Ett.,  could  also  be  identified,  the  species 
agreeing  with  the  specimens  from  Spitsbergen. 

The  Grrinnell  Land  lignite  indicates  a  thick  peat  moss, 
with  probably  a  small  lake,  with  water  lilies  on  the  surface 
of  the  water,  and  reeds  on  the  edges,  and  birches  and  poplars, 
and  taxodias,  on  the  banks,  with  pines,  firs,  spruce  elms,  and 
hazel  bushes  on  the  neighbouring  hills.  Further  research  of 
these  remarkable  beds  would  doubtless  afford  a  rich  harvest 
of  vegetable  remains,  and  possibly  those  of  a  vertebrate 
fauna,  as  well  as  of  the  insects  that  probably  tenanted  the 
forest ;  but  at  present  the  elytron  of  a  beetle  (Carabites 
feildenianus,  Hr.)  attests  their  former  presence. 


336  APPENDIX.  No.  XV. 

If  lands  formerly  extended  to  the  Pole,  they  were  pro- 
bably covered  with  these  Arctic  forests.  The  climatic  dif- 
ferences indicated  by  the  flora  of  the  north  and  west  part  of 
Spitsbergen  (King's  Bay  and  Ice  Fiord)  to  that  of  Disco 
Island  and  Finmark  are  still  more  apparent  in  comparing 
the  latter  with  that  of  Grinnell  Land,  which  indicates  the 
same  conditions  as  Spitsbergen,  which,  though  colder  than 
Disco,  was  evidently  not  Arctic,  as  the  water  lily  proves 
fresh  water,  water  that  must  have  remained  open  for  th* 
greater  part  of  the  year,  and  the  Taxodium  distichum  can- 
not be  now  got  to  grow  unartificially  in  Christiania,  and  is 
only  maintained  in  northern  Germaliy  by  cultivation. 

Existing  representative  Arctic  plants  are  wanting  in  the 
Grinnell  Land  Miocenes,  but  most  of  the  genera  occurring  in 
them  still  exist  within  the  Arctic  Zone,  but  all  of  them  have 
their  present  limit,  at  least,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  degrees 
further  south,  only  Equisetum,  Carex,  and  Populus  ex- 
tending beyond  70°  N. :  of  the  remainder,  Pinus  abies  ceases 
at  69°  30' ;  Pkragmites  communis  at  69°  45'  in  Finmark ; 
Corylus  avellana  in  67°  56' ;  Ulmus  montana  in  66°  59',  and 
cultivated  to  nearly  70°  in  Norway. 

The  writers  are  indebted  to  Professor  Oswald  Heer  of 
Zurich  for  the  following  determination  of  the  fossil  remains 
from  the  Miocene  shales  of  Grinnell  Land  : — 

PLANTS. 

Equisetum  arcticum,  Hr. 
„         ccstatum,  Hr. 
Torellia  rigida,  Hr. 

„         major,  Hr. 

„         bifida,  Hr. 

„         mossiana,  Hr. 
Thuites  ehrenswardi,  Hr.  ? 
Taxodium  distichum  miocenum. 
Pinus  feildeniana*  Hr. 

„      polaris,  Hr. 


N<>.  XV.  GEOLOGY.  337 


Pinus  abieSy  Linn. 

„       dicksoniana,  Hr. 

„       hayesiana,  Hr. 
Phragmites  halliana,  Hr. 

„  ceninc/ensis,  Al.  Br. 

Castinites  articus,  Hr. 
Carex  nourgsoakensis,  Hr. 
Tridium  grcenlandicum,  Hr.  ? 
Populus  arctica,  Hr. 
Populus  faddacki,  Hr. 


Betula  prisca,  Ett. 

„       brongniarti,  Ett. 
Corylus  macquarrii,  Forbes. 

„       in&ignis,  Hr. 
Ulmus  borealis,  Hr.     ( 
Viburnum  nordenskidldi>  Hr. 
Nymphcea  arctica,  Hr. 
jPi^ia  malmgreni,  Hr. 
Phyllites  fagopyrinus,  Hr. 

INSECTA. 
Carabites  feildenianus,  Hr. 

Mr.  R.  J.  Moss,  F.C.S.,  has  recently  examined  a  specimen 
of  the   coal  from   the   winter-quarters  of  the   '  Discovery,' 
deposited  in  the  Museum  of  Science  and  Art,  Dublin,  and 
found  it  to  possess  the  lustre  and  fracture  of  good  bituminous 
coal,  to  cake  when  heated,  and  to  have  61  per  cent,  of  coherent 
coke.     It  contains  :  — 

Carbon      ......     75-49 

Hydrogen  ......       5*60 

Oxygen  and  nitrogen.         .         .         .       9  '8  9 

Sulphur    ......       0-52 

Ash  .......       6-49 

Water        ....  .       2-01 

100-00 
VOL.   II.  Z 


338  APPENDIX.  No.  XV. 

Excluding  water,  sulphur,  and  ash,  its  compositions  are  :— 

Carbon 82-97 

Hydrogen 6-16 

Oxygen  and  nitrogen .         .         .         .     1087 

100.00 

Its  ash  contains  7*58  per  cent,  of  potash,  a  quantity  un- 
usually large  ;  and  Mr.  Moss  compares  the  chemical  composi- 
tion of  the  coal  to  the  thick  era  of  the  carboniferous  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy,  Nova  Scotia,  and  to  a  lignite  of  Miocene 
age  in  the  Island  of  Sardinia,  containing  82*26  of  carbon.1 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  Grrinnell  Land  coal  is  1'3, 
corresponding  to  those  from  Disco,  though  it  differs  in  con- 
taining so  much  larger  an  amount  of  carbon. 

From  the  large  number  of  analyses  made  by  Mr.  A. 
Marvine  of  the  U.  S.  Survey  of  the  Territories  of  the  Lignites 
of  the  Western  States,2  it  appears  they  resemble  the  Grrinnell 
Land  coal  in  their  compact  character,  black  colour  and 
shining  lustre,  resembling  that  of  bituminous  coals ;  the  ash 
is  low,  seldom  reaching  6  per  cent.,  while  the  sulphur  is 
generally  less  than  2  per  cent.  Volatile  products  evolved 
below  a  dull  red  heat  usually  vary  from  25  to  37  per  cent., 
while  fixed  carbon  lies  between  45  and  60  per  cent.,  indi- 
cating qualities  above  those  of  ordinary  European  brown 
coals  or  lignite,  but  containing  less  carbon  than  the  true 
bituminous  coal  of  Grinnell  Land. 

The  extensive  tracts  of  Cretaceous  and  Tertiary  rocks 
ranging  from  the  Grulf  of  Mexico  to  Vancouver  Island,  and 
occupying  so  large  an  area  in  the  centre  of  North  America, 
have  been  shown  to  consist  of  an  unbroken  sequence,  without 
any  physical  break,  but  contain  a  succession  of  distinct  floras, 
the  details  and  relative  age  of  which  have  been  so  ably  worked 

1  On  the  chemical  composition  of  the  coal  discovered  "by  the  Arctic 
Expedition  of  1875-6.— '  Scientific  Proc.  of  the  Royal  Dublin  Soc.,' 
1877. 

3  '  Report  of  the  U.  S.  Geol.  and  Geog.  Survey  of  the  Territories/ 
Washington,  1874.  p.  112. 


No.  XV.  GEOLOGY.  339 

q 

Out  in  the  magnificent  volumes  published  by  the  U.  S.  Geo- 
logical Survey  of  the  Territories,  containing  the  researches  of 
Professors  Leo  Lesquereux,  Meek,  Mudge,  Drs.  Hay  den  and 
Newberry,  and  others. 

The  flora  of  the  base  of  the  Cretaceous  of  America,  the 
Dakota  group,  has  much  in  common  with  the  Greenland 
Upper  Cretaceous  Flora,  some  of  the  twenty-eight  species 
determined  by  Prof.  Heer  being  identical.  The  vast  extent 
and  homogeneousness  of  the  formation  in  America  point  to  a 
marine  deposit,  formed  during  a  period  of  subsidence,  followed 
by  a  long  stationary  era,  experiencing  a  land  climate — dry, 
and  proportionally  cold. 

The  marine  forms,  which  occur  in  the  Dakota  group,  and 
which  have  so  large  a  development  in  the  overlying  beds,  are 
absent  in  the  Greenland  beds,  and  the  Lower  Cretaceous  flora 
appears  to  be  unrepresented  in  North  America,  pointing  to  a 
long  and  unbroken  continental  epoch  in  the  Arctic  Circle, 
ranging  through  the  entire  Cretaceous  and  Tertiary  eras.  In 
the  overlying  American  Eocenes  occur  types  of  plants,  oc- 
curring in  the  European  Miocenes,  and  still  living,  proving 
the  truth  of  Professor  Lesquereux's  postulate  that  the  plant 
types  appear  in  America  a  stage  in  advance  of  their  advent 
in  Europe.  These  plants  point  to  a  far  higher  mean  tem- 
perature than  those  of  the  Dakota  group,  to  a  dense  atmo- 
sphere of  vapour,  and  a  luxuriance  of  ferns  and  palms.  The 
subtropical  flora  of  the  Eocene  Tertiary  lignitic  group  is 
absent  in  the  Arctic  lands,  though  a  certain  amount  of  mingling 
of  temperate  forms  occurs  ;  these,  however,  come  in  great 
force  in.the  overlying  Lower  Miocene  beds,  many  of  the  species 
being  common  to  the  Greenland  and  Mackenzie  rocks  of  that 
age,  and  some  of  them  reappearing  in  the  plants-bearing  shales 
of  Grinnell  Land  ;  the  successive  Miocene  deposits  pointing 
to  a  gradual  lowering  of  the  mean  temperature. 

The  American  origin  of  the  Miocene  flora  of  Europe,  as 
Dr.  Newberry  points  out,  is  strongly  supported  by  the  occur- 
rence of  the  plant  Onoclea  sensibilis  (Felicites  hebridicus 
of  Forbes),  discovered  long  ago  by  the  Duke  of  Argyll  in  the 

z  '2 


340  APPENDIX.  No.  XV. 

leaf-beds  of  Mull  in  the  American  tertiaries  ;  and  he  suggests 
that  the  temperate  flora,  which  drove  the  warmer  Eocene  flora 
to  the  south  and  east  of  Europe,  travelled  by  way  of  Green- 
land, Iceland,  and  the  Hebrides. 

In  Miocene  times  the  climate  of  Greenland  and  Alaska 
was  that  of  New  York  and  St.  Louis,  while,  in  the  succeeding 
glacial  era,  the  climate  now  existing  in  Greenland  came 
down  to  the  latitude  of  New  York,  a  cold  temperate  climate 
prevailed  in  Mexico,  into  which  the  advancing  cold  forced 
the  herds  of  mammals  which  covered  the  plains  of  North 
America,  where  they  were  nearly  all  exterminated. 

Glaciation. — During  the  thaw  produced  by  the  short 
episode  of  warmth  that  represents  in  the  Arctic  regions  the 
summer  of  other  lands,  sub-aerial  denudation  of  the  surface 
of  the  cliffs  takes  place  on  a  gigantic  scale,  vast  masses  of 
rock  fall  from  the  cliffs,  and  form  a  talus  concealing  their 
base,  like  the  '  screes '  of  the  English  Lake  District. 

On  the  close  of  the  transient  summer  the  rocks  are  satu- 
rated with  moisture,  cleaved  slate  cliffs  and  the  loose  material 
forming  the  '  screes  '  being  alike  charged  with  water  to  their 
utmost  capacity ;  without  any  warning  or  gradual  approach 
winter  conditions  appear,  and  the  face  of  nature  is  changed 
in  a  few  hours  ;  moisture  and  running  water  are  converted 
into  ice,  which  in  process  of  expansion  exercise  a  destructive 
force  on  the  rocks  which  is  hardly  comparable  with  the  sub- 
aerial  denudation  going  on  in  more  temperate  climes ;  and  on 
the  first  appearance  of  thaw,  masses  of  rock,  separating  along 
lines  of  weakness  formed  by  planes  of  jointing  and  bedding, 
are  detached  from  the  cliff,  and  falling  on  the  snow-covered 
6  screes '  slide  down  to  the  ice-foot  beneath,  the  impetus  being 
often  sufficient  to  carry  them  on  to  the  floe,  where  they 
remain  until  they  are  carried  seaward  on  the  general  break-up 
of  the  ice. 

The  ice-foot  is  built  up  not  so  much  by  the  act  of  freezing 
of  the  sea-water  in  contact  with  the  coast,  as  by  the  accumu- 
lation of  the  autumn  snow-fall,  which  drifting  to  the  beach  is 
met  by  the  sea- water  at  a  temperature  below  the  freezing  point 


No.  XV.  GEOLOGY.  341 

of  fresh -water  and  instantaneously  is  converted  into  ice,  and 
forms  a  solid  wall  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea  upwards  and 
increasing  in  height  as  the  snow  falls. 

When  the  '  season  floe,'  or  young  ice,  is  first  formed  there 
is  little  difference  in  the  level  of  the  floe  and  that  of  the  ice- 
foot, but  as  the  latter  is  constantly  increasing  in  height, 
while  the  former  is  daily  oscillating  with  movement  of  the 
tides,  a  junction  of  the  two 'never  takes  place ;  for  the  height 
of  the  surface  of  the  ice-foot  above  the  level  of  high-water  is 
mainly  dependent  on  the  amount  of  snow-fall,  while  its 
depth  below  that  level  is  dependent  upon  the  slope  of  the 
sea-bottom  anji  the  vertical  range  of  the  tides. 

Like  the  beaches  of  more  temperate  regions,  the  ice-foot 
is  absent  on  exposed  and  projecting  headlands,  and  it  is  best 
developed  in  the  sweeping  curves  and  deeper  bays  of  the 
coast-line.  Its  typical  aspect  in  Smith  Sound  is  a  flat 
terrace  50  to  100  yards  in  breadth,  stretching  from  the  base 
of  the  '  scree  '  to  the  sea-margin,  its  width,  varying  with  the 
slope  of  the  sea-bottom,  decreasing  in  direct  proportion  to 
the  increase  of  the  land  slope. 

When  the  solar  rays  exert  their  force,  the  snow  forming  the 
upper  layer  of  the  ice-foot  lying  nearest  to  the  '  scree  '  is  first 
melted,  owing  to  the  dark  surface  of  the  talus  absorbing  heat, 
and  a  deep  trench  is  formed,  which  becomes  filled  with  water, 
received  from  the  cliffs  above,  and  derived  from  the  melting 
of  the  snow  below ;  these  united  streams  soon  cut  deep 
channels  in  the  ice,  and  make  their  way  to  the  sea  through 
transverse  gullies,  often  exposing  the  rock  beneath,  which  at 
low-water  become  dry,  but  filled  with  sea-water  on  the 
return  of  the  tide,  which  rushing  through  the  apertures 
with  great  violence,  sweeps  right  and  left,  occupies  the 
ditch  at  the  face  of  the  talus,  and  reasserts  its  materials. 
These  fall  to  the  bottom,  and  form  the  old  sea  margins, 
which,  through  the  gradual  rise  of  the  land,  form  a  cha- 
racteristic series  of  successive  terraces  at  various  elevations  up 
to  200  or  300  feet,  especially  in  sheltered  bays  and  inlets, 
and  occasionally  in  positions  where  wave-action  was  impossible. 


342  APPENDIX.  No.  XV. 

These  terraces  were  doubtless  formerly  much  more  continuous 
than  at  present,  later  denudation  having  destroyed  portions  of 
them ;  but  the  numerous  fragments  that  remain,  preserved 
by  a  protective  snow  mantle,  are  sufficient  to  show  that  they 
were  formed  by  the  processes  now  in  progress  of  operation. 

The  mud  and  sand-beds  formed  during  the  earlier  stage 
of  upheaval  are  carried  down  by  summer  torrents,  and  dis- 
charged into  fiords  and  arms  of  the  sea  ;  the  heated  and  turbid 
waters  melting  the  floes  lying  around  the  delta,  and  causing 
it  to  discharge  its  freight  of  stones  and  gravel  into  the  mud- 
beds  beneath,  into  which  also  fall  the  shells  of  the  mollusca 
inhabiting  the  coast.  These  mud-beds  on  the  upheaval  of 
the  country  are  covered  by  stream-action  with  unfossiliferous 
gravels,  which,  together  with  the  mud-beds,  often  form  a 
thickness  in  the  valleys  of  200  or  300  feet. 

The  sequence  of  formation  is  constantly  repeated  as  the 
rise  of  the  land  gradually  goes  on  ;  the  turbid  matter  in  the 
summer  torrent  is  precipitated,  the  delta  increases  in  thick- 
ness, until  the  bay  is  silted  up  by  a  bar  across  it  in  great 
measure  thrown  up  by  the  irresistible  pressure  of  the  Polar 
pack  exerted  on  the  floebergs,  which  buries  them  deep  in  the 
soft  material,  and  thrusts  it  up  into  a  bar ;  and  the  bay 
becomes  a  lake.  Upheaval  continuing,  the  waters  seek  an  out- 
let ;  a  passage  through  the  barrier  is  cut,  the  waters  of  the  lake 
are  lowered,  and  expanses  of  mud,  strewed  with  My  a  truncata, 
Saxicava  rugosa.,  Astarte  borecdis,  are  exposed.  This  surface 
during  ten  months  of  the  year  is  frozen  as  hard  as  any  rock,  but 
during  the  thaw  episode  is  exposed  to  extensive  denudation, 
and  its  materials  carried  down  to  lower  levels. 

The  molluscan  fauna,  found  in  the  giacio-marine  deposits 
of  Grinnell  Land  and  North  Greenland  at  various  levels  up 
to  1,000  feet  above  the  present  sea-level,  is  practically  identi- 
cal with  that  now  living  in  the  neighbouring  sea,  and  the 
species  Pecten  groenlandicus,  Mya  truncata,  and  Saxicava 
rugosa  are  alike  most  abundant  in  the  modern  seas,  and  in 
the  older  mud-beds ;  and  it  is  especially  worthy  of  note,  as 
indicating  the  comparatively  modern  elevation  of  this  coast- 


No.  XV.  GEOLOGY. 

line,  that  stems  of  two  species  of  Laminaria,  which  grow  in 
considerable  abundance  in  the  Polar  sea,  occur  in  the  mud- 
beds  at  elevations  of  200  feet,  still  retaining  their  peculiar 
sea-shore  odour. 

Coniferous  wood,  still  retaining  its  buoyancy,  occurs  at  ele- 
vations of  several  hundred  feet,  of  a  precisely  similar  character 
to  that  now  being  stranded  on  the  existing  coast-line.  No 
evidence  was  discovered  in  the  mud-beds  of  Grinnell  Land  to 
encourage  the  idea  that  any  of  these  trees  had  grown  in  situ, 
or  that  during  the  period  occupied  by  the  elevation  of  this  tract 
of  country  a  thousand  feet,  it  had  experienced  an  interglacial 
period  during  which  such  trees  might  have  flourished. 

Sea-ice  moved  up  and  down  by  tidal  action,  or  driven  on 
shore  by  gales,  was  found  to  be  a  very  potent  agent  in  the 
glaciation  of  rocks  and  pebbles ;  the  work  was  seen  in 
progress  along  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Basin,1  '  at  the  south 
end  of  a  small  island  in  BlackclitT  Bay,  lat.  82°  30'  N.,  the 
bottoms  of  the  hummocks,  some  eight  to  fifteen  feet  thick, 
were  studded  with  hard  limestone  pebbles,  which  when  ex- 
tracted from  the  ice  were  found  to  be  rounded  and  scratched 
on  the  exposed  surface  only.' 

On  shelving  shores,  as  the  tide  recedes,  the  hummocks, 
sliding  over  the  subjacent  material  down  to  a  position  of 
rest,  make  a  well-marked  and  peculiar  sound,  resulting  from 
the  grating  of  included  pebbles,  with  the  rocky  floor  beneath, 
or  in  some  cases  on  other  pebbles  included  in  drift  overlying 
the  rock. 

The  rock  surface  at  considerable  elevations,  between  gaps 
in  the  lines  of  old  terrace,  is  often  found  to  be  glaciated ;  and 
there  can  be  little  doubt  that  this  glaciation  was  produced 
by  shore-ice,  during  ebbing  of  the  tide,  when  the  land  stood 
lower  than  at  present ;  and  the  condition  of  the  terrace  pre- 
cludes the  idea  of  glacier  action. 

The  absence  of  an  ice-cap  in  Grinnell  Land,  and  the 
paucity  of  the  glaciers  in  that  region,  are  worthy  of  note,  none 
descending  to  the  sea-level  north  of  81° ;  while  on  the  same 
1  Feilden's  MSS.  Journal. 


344  APPENDIX.  No.  XV. 

parallel  on  the  opposite  coast  of  Hall  Basin,  on  the  Greenland 
coast,  the  country  is  ice-clad  to  the  water's  edge. 

Petermann  Fiord  is  described  by  Dr.  Coppinger  as 
bounded  by  vertical  cliffs,  of  fossiliferous  (Silurian)  limestone 
rock,  1,100  feet  in  height,  surmounted  by  an  ice-cap,  which 
flows  steadily  over  the  cliffs,  from  which  it  hangs  in  gigantic 
masses,  which  from  time  to  time  fall  in  a  series  of  avalanches, 
carrying  with  them  rocks  torn  from  the  face  of  the  cliff, 
and  precipitate  them  on  the  floe  beneath. 

The  surface  of  the  floe  is  traversed  by  deep  wave-like 
furrows,  thirty  feet  in  depth,  moving  obliquely  across  it, 
and  exceedingly  difficult  to  traverse,  especially  where  lateral 
glaciers  come  in,  and  break  the  continuity  of  the  ridges, 
and  separate  them  by  wide  fissures  and  gaps.  The  ice 
brought  down  by  these  lateral  gaps  affects  but  little  the 
volume  of  the  immense  glacier  flowing  down  from  the  eastern 
country,  which  appears  to  have  formerly  filled  the  entire 
valley. 

The  continuity  of  the  molluscan  fauna  to  the  Grinnell 
Land  mud-beds  with  those  now  living  on  the  coast,  already 
referred  to,  points  to  a  uniformity  of  climatal  conditions 
prevailing,  through  a  period  marked  by  considerable  physical 
change,  in  the  relative  proportions  of  sea  and  land  in  the 
North  Polar  area,  changes  which  appear  to  have  alike  unin- 
fluenced the  molluscan  fauna  of  the  seas  and  the  mammalian 
fauna  of  the  land ;  the  mud-beds  having  afforded  bones  of  the 
lemming  (My odes  torquatus),  the  ringed  seal  (Phoca  his- 
pida\  the  reindeer,  and  the  musk-ox*  (Ovibos  moschatus). 

The  greater  precipitation  of  snow  on  the  east  coast  of  the 
basin,  and  consequent  greater  size  of  the  effluent  glaciers, 
and  more  extensive  work  of  glaciation  affected,  appear  to 
have  long  gone  on,  and  to  have  been  formerly  more  important 
than  now ;  but  the  conditions  do  not  ever  appear  to  have 
been  so  rigorous  as  to  preclude  the  existence  of  animals,  and 
the  somewhat  local  character  of  the  more  extensive  glaciation 
is  worthy  of  note,  as  throwing  some  light  on  the  origin  '  of 
areas  of  no  glaciation,'  in  portions  of  the  British  Isles,  and  as 


]S7o.  XV.  GEOLOGY.  345 

helping  to  explain  the  occurrence  of  a  fauna  in  glacial 
deposits,  thought  by  some  to  indicate  an  interglacial  episode 
in  the  last  British  Glacial  era. 

We  will  not  enter  into  the  question  whether  the  area, 
embraced  by  the  conditions  which  caused  the  glaciation  of 
Britain,  included  the  Arctic  area,  nor  as  to  the  causes,  geogra- 
phical, astronomical,  or  physical,  that  led  to  it ;  but  we  think 
it  worthy  of  note  that  no  records  of  former  glacial  episodes 
have  yet  been  discovered  in  the  Polar  lands,  which  were 
tenanted  by  the  molluscs  of  the  Silurian,  Carboniferous, 
Liassic,  and  Oolitic  seas,  and  its  land  covered  with  the  rich 
vegetation  of  the  '  Ursa  stage,'  and  of  the  Cretacean  and 
Miocene  eras. 

The  fauna  and  flora  of  the  Arctic  Palaeozoic  and  older 
Secondary  rocks  point  to  a  uniformity  of  conditions  of  temper- 
ature, climate  does  not  appear  to  have  existed,  in  the  ordinary 
sense  of  the  word,  as  temperature  of  the  air  affected  by  local 
geographical  conditions ;  the  striking  uniformity  of  condition 
appears  to  have  been  unbroken  up  to  the  close  of  the 
Secondary  Epoch. 


346  APPENDIX.  No.  XVI. 


No.  XVI. 

REPORT  ON  PETERMANN  GLACIER. 
BY  RICHARD  W.  COPPINGEE,  M.D., 

Staff  Surgeon  Royal  Navy. 

THE  party  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Fulford,  to 
which  I  was  attached,  started  from  Thank  God  Harbour  on 
May  22,  1876,  and  on  the  second  journey  rounded  Cape 
Tyson  and  entered  the  fiord.  On  leaving  Cape  Tyson  and 
Offley  Island,  which  were  considered  to  mark  the  north- 
east side  of  the  mouth  of  the  fiord,  we  saw  some  miles  before 
us  an  abrupt,  precipitous  wall  of  ice,  extending  in  an  ir- 
regularly wavy  but  unbroken  line  from  shore  to  shore. 
When  we  had  got  about  ten  miles  S.S.E.  of  Offley  Island,  the 
young  floe  on  which  we  had  been  travelling  terminated,  and 
was  connected  through  the  intervention  of  a  hummock  hedge 
with  an  old  glassy-hummocked  floe,  over  which  we  proceeded 
until  we  reached  the  margin  of  the  heavy  ice  above  mentioned. 
There  at  eleven  and  a  half  miles  S.S.E.  of  Offley  Island, 
and  about  1,000  yards  from  the  high  precipitous  cliffs  which 
form  the  north-east  shore  of  the  fiord,  we  made  our  second 
camp.  The  old  floe  on  which  we  camped  was  rigidly  con- 
nected with  the  heavy  ice  ;  in  some  places  the  precipitous 
and  cleanly- fractured  face  of  the  latter  meeting  the  old  floe 
at  a  sharp  right  angle.  On  examining  the  surface  of  the 
heavy  ice,  we  found  it  to  be  totally  different  in  character  from 
that  of  a  floe.  It  was  of  glassy  smoothness,  and  so  slippery 


Bo.  XVI.   REPORT  ON  PETERMANN  GLACIER.      347 

and  uneven  that  walking  (in  the  ordinary  sense  of  the  word) 
was  impossible,  and  to  get  along  at  all  it  was  frequently 
necessary  to  resort  to  crawling.  The  surface  was  thickly 
studded  with  circular  pits,  about  six  inches  deep,  and  from  one 
to  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  usually  containing  a  little  snow 
and  some  dark  powder.  In  general  configuration  the  surface 
of  this  ice  was  arranged  for  the  most  part  in  undulating  ridges, 
extending  obliquely  down  the  fiord  in  a  northerly  and  southerly 
direction  ;  but  as  a  rule  interrupted  by  wide  fissures  and 
faults,  so  that  few  of  the  ridges  were  directly  continuous  for 
a  greater  length  than  two  miles.  The  height  from  crest  to 
furrow  was  usually  about  thirty  feet,  and  the  slope  so  steep 
and  slippery  that  in  many  places  it  was  quite  impracticable 
to  cross  the  ridges  except  by  cutting  steps,  or  some  such  con- 
trivance. The  furrows,  as  a  rule,  had  a  certain  amount  of 
snow-bed,  and  so  far  as  they  went  afforded  good  travelling ; 
but  where  the  ice  was  devoid  of  snow,  not  even  a  dog  could 
obtain  foothold.  It  is  not  to  be  understood  from  the  above 
that  the  ice-surface  was  everywhere  disposed  in  these  great 
ridges  and  furrows  :  for  there  were  many  patches  from  five  to 
six  acres  in  extent  of  bare  ice  exhibiting  an  irregularly  undu- 
lating surface  from  thirty  to  thirty-five  feet  above  the  water- 
level,  and  intersected  by  narrow  fissures. 

Having  explored  all  the  ice  within  a  day's  journey  of  this 
camp,  and  found  that  by  keeping  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
to  the  old  floe,  which  sent  a  tongue  under  the  north-east 
cliffs,  and  taking  to  a  furrow  of  the  glacier  ice  for  another 
.  three-quarters  of  a  mile  we  could  advance  our  position,  we 
packed  up  and  proceeded. 

Our  third  camp,  reached  on  the  25th  of  May,  was 
thirteen  miles  from  Offley  Island  and  two  hundred  yards 
from  the  north-east  line  of  cliffs.  Here  Lieutenant  Fulford 
obtained  '  sights '  for  latitude.  From  four  miles  to  the 
northward  of  this  position,  these  cliffs  presented  a  vertical 
face  about  1,100  feet  high,  composed  of  alternating  bands 
of  light-grey  and  dark  slate-coloured  fossiliferous  limestone 
rock,  and  from  abreast  our  third  camp,  were  surmounted  by 


348  APPENDIX.  No.  XVI. 

an  ice-cap,  whose  blue,  jagged  edge  lying  flush  with  the  face  of 
the  cliffs  we  estimated  at  a  thickness  of  forty  feet.  The  cliffs 
of  the  south-west  shore  of  the  fiord  presented  a  similar  ice-cap, 
but  of  greater  extent,  as  it  began  about  ten  miles  to  the 
southward  of  Cape  Lucie  Marie,  i.e.  on  the  south  side  of  the 
first  glacier,  and  was  continuous  to  the  southward  as  far  as 
the  cliffs  were  seen  to  extend. 

From  both  sides  the  ice  seemed  to  be  flowing  steadily  over 
the  cliffs,  as  evidenced  by  frequent  avalanches  in  which  great 
masses  of  the  ice-cap  projecting  over  the  precipices  became 
detached,  and  carrying  with  them  in  their  descent  masses  of 
rock  torn  from  the  face  of  the  cliffs,  came  thundering  down 
to  the  floe,  marking  their  flight  by  dense  clouds  of  snow,  and 
accompanied  by  a  long  series  of  echoes,  creating  a  most  grand 
and  imposing  spectacle.  Some  idea  of  the  force  with  which 
these  avalanches  came  down  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact 
that  large  stones  were  projected  on  to  the  floe  to  a  distance  of 
eighty  yards  from  the  foot  of  the  perpendicular  walls  of  rock. 

At  this  third  camp,  the  furthest  position  to  which  with 
our  disabled  sledge  and  unsuitable  equipments  we  could  move 
our  baggage,  we  spent  three  days  devoted  to  walking  ex- 
cursions. The  greatest  distance  up  the  fiord  to  which  we 
could  proceed  was  six  miles  from  camp,  and  to  attain  this 
distance  we  had  to  run  some  risks  of  falling  through  hidden 
crevasses,  and  slipping  from  high  ice  slopes  into  water- 
chasms  ;  so  that  we  had  to  content  ourselves  with  making  our 
furthest  look-out  point  on  the  summit  of  an  ice-pinnacle 
eighteen  and  a  half  miles  from  Offley  Island. 

About  one  mile  from  us  was  the  nearest  glacier  of  the 
north-east  shore,  two  miles  beyond  it  a  second,  and  half  a  mile 
further  on  a  third.  We  had  found,  as  we  approached  these 
glaciers,  that  the  main  ice  of  the  fiord  became  more  and 
more  fissured,  and  that  the  faults  in  the  continuity  of  the 
ridges  and  the  furrows  were  more  frequent  and  embarrassing  ; 
but  from  the  eminence  now  attained  it  seemed  that  these 
glaciers  were  the  nuclei  of  disruptions  of  the  main  ice,  and 
hence  the  progressively  increasing  difficulties  of  travelling. 


No.  XVI.      REPORT  ON   PETERMANN   GLACIKII.  349 

Carrying  the  eye  along  the  north-east  line  of  cliffs,  we  saw  the 
land  terminate  abruptly  about  twenty  miles  off  in  a  prominent 
bluff,  and  from  this  point  to  a  quarter  of  the  way  across  the 
head  of  the  fiord  no  land  was  to  be  seen,  but  the  same  extra- 
ordinary undulating  sea  of  ice  which,  from  the  main  ridges 
lying  in  a  north  and  south  direction,  would  seem  to  be  flowing 
into  the  fiord  in  an  east  to  west  direction.  The  fact  of  our 
distinctly  seeing  those  ridges  at  so  great  a  distance  was 
perhaps  due  to  the  gradual  shoaling  of  the  water  up  the 
fiord,  and  the  consequent  rise  in  the  elevation  of  the  ice. 

To  the  south-east  a  background  of  land  about  thirty  miles 
distant  was  clearly  seen  extending  behind,  and  as  it  were 
overlapping  the  apparent  termination  of  the  south-west  line 
of  cliffs.  The  latter  cliffs  presented  to  the  eye  an  appearance 
almost  precisely  similar  to  that  of  the  north-east  cliffs,  and 
they  seemed  to  correspond  as  if  originally  parts  of  the  same 
land.  Both  were  of  about  equal  height,  were  equally  pre- 
cipitous, presented  the  same  arrangement  of  strata,  the  same 
description  of  ice-cap ;  and  both  were  grooved  by  glaciers, 
there  being  four  on  the  south-west  side  and  three  on  the 
north-east  side  of  the  fiord. 

When  about  a  mile  from  the  nearest  glacier  we  came  to 
a  wide  fissure,  about  thirty  yards  broad,  which  seemed  to 
extend  nearly  across  the  fiord,  and  whose  precipitous  glassy 
walls,  fifty  feet  high  from  brink  to  water,  we  had  no  means 
of  descending.  The  bottom  of  this  fissure  was  composed  of 
treacherous-looking,  slushy  ice,  with  a  lane  of  dark  water 
two  feet  wide  along  the  middle  ;  so  that  had  we  succeeded 
in  getting  down  we  should  probably  have  been  unable  to 
cross.  About  this  same  locality  were  several  narrow  fissures, 
some  of  which,  from  the  very  slippery  nature  of  the  ice,  it 
was  difficult  to  avoid  falling  into.  One  of  these,  in  a  tolerably 
level  part  of  the  ice,  we  found  by  measurement  to  be  two 
feet  wide  above,  and  twenty-three  feet  deep,  from  brink  to  a 
probable  false  bottom  of  loose  snow,  on  which  the  light  weight 
of  our  measuring  line  rested. 

The  ice  seemed  to  be  incessantly  cracking.     Wherever  we 


350  APPENDIX.  No.  XVI. 

stood  we  heard  about  every  half  minute  a  noise  varying 
between  the  sharp  crack  of  a  whip  and  the  report  of  a  gun- 
cap,  resulting,  as  we  soon  discovered,  from  the  formation  of 
thread-like  cracks,  many  yards  in  length,  which  formed  a 
kind  of  network  over  the  surface  of  the  ice. 

The  behaviour  of  the  water  in  the  wide  fissures  was  very 
puzzling.  It  seemed  to  rise  and  fall  to  a  certain  extent 
through  the  ice,  but  not  enough  to  account  for  the  whole 
tidal  movement ;  and  we  were  therefore  inclined  to  believe 
that  the  glacier  ice  was  only  aground  at  certain  periods  of 
the  tide,  and  that  it  consequently  behaved  in  some  respects 
like  a  floe,  and  in  others  like  grounded  ice.  Not  being- 
provided  with  a  sounding  line,  no  estimate  of  the  depth  of 
any  part  of  the  fiord  was  made.  However,  to  solve  the 
question  as  to  the  existence  of  a  vertical  tidal  movement  in 
the  ice,  Lieutenant  Fulford  took  a  series  of  sextant  angles 
between  the  summit  of  the  cliff  adjoining  our  camp  and  a 
marked  spot  on  the  ice,  and  observing  at  different  periods  of 
the  tide,  came  to  the  conclusion  that  there  was  a  certain 
amount  of  vertical  motion. 

Having  failed  to  get  up  the  fiord  by  the  north-east  side  to 
a  greater  distance  than  eighteen  and  a  half  miles  from  Offley 
Island,  Lieutenant  Fulford  decided  on  moving  round  by  the 
edge  of  the  glacier  ice  to  the  opposite  or  south-west  side,  and  on 
trying  there  to  discover  a  more  practicable  route  than  we  had 
hitherto  encountered.  In  the  latter  attempt,  however,  we 
were  disappointed,  for  after  travelling  along  the  floe  under 
the  south-west  cliffs  to  a  distance  of  thirteen  miles  from  Cape 
Lucie  Marie,  we  found  the  glacier  ice  jammed  right  against 
the  face  of  the  cliffs,  and  not  affording  anywhere  a  practicable 
route  for  our  sledge.  Between  the  young  floe  and  the  glacier 
ice  was  a  well-marked  tidal  crack,  which  extended  for  three- 
fourths  of  the  way  across  the  fiord,  that  is,  as  far  as  the  young 
floe  and  the  glacier  ice  met  without  the  intervention  of  an 
old  floe. 

On  the  3rd  of  June  we  commenced  our  return  journey, 
and  stopping  for  one  day  at  Offley  Island,  had  opportunities 


No.  XVI.      REPORT   ON  PETERMANN  GLACIER.  351 

of  collecting  specimens  of  Silurian  fossils,  and  of  observing 
the  glacial  planings  and  scorings  which  this  island  exhibits 
to  a  remarkable  degree.  These  scorings  run  uniformly  from 
the  summit  of  the  island,  at  its  north-east  extremity  to  the 
beach  at  the  south-west  end,  grooving  successive  layers  of 
grey  and  black  limestone.  These  layers  of  rock  lie  hori- 
zontally ;  both  are  fossiliferous,  the  grey  abounding  in  fossil, 
corals,  and  molluscs,  the  black  containing  corals,  but  to  a 
less  extent.  The  north-east  extremity  presents  an  abrupt 
precipitous  face,  513  feet  high,  showing  the  same  arrange- 
ment of  stratified  rock  as  on  the  glaciated  slope,  and  closely 
corresponding  with  the  appearance  presented  by  the  opposite 
face  of  Cape  Tyson,  one  mile  distant.  Subsequent  obser- 
vations at  Cape  Tyson  showed  that  in  geological  formation  it 
closely  corresponded  with  Offley  Island. 

It  is  manifest  from  the  above  that  the  results  of  the 
Expedition  have  not  been  as  decisive  as  could  be  wished,  yet 
I  think  enough  has  been  done  to  justify  us  in  concluding 
that  the  Petermann  Fiord  is  the  outlet  of  a  huge  glacier 
stream  flowing  probably  from  the  eastward,  to  which  the 
glaciers  flowing  through  the  north-east  and  south-west  cliffs 
are  insignificant  tributaries,  not  adding  materially  to  the 
main  volume  of  ice. 

In  several  particulars  this  glacier  presented  features 
deviating  considerably  from  the  general  rule,  which,  although 
already  touched  on  in  this  Report,  it  may  be  as  well  to  sum- 
marise as  follows  : — 1.  The  absence  of  onward  sliding  motion, 
probably  due  to  the  immobility  of  the  floe  in  the  mouth  of 
the  fiord,  the  low  gradient  of  the  glacier,  and  the  prolonged 
cold  season.  2.  Its  partial  subjection  to  tidal  influence  for 
more  than  a  mile  above  the  snout.  3.  The  absence  of  de- 
tached bergs  below  the  snout.  4.  The  diminutive  height  of 
the  terminal  cliff,  ranging  from  sixteen  to  thirty  feet  above 
the  sea-level.  5.  The  presence  of  water  in  the  fissures  two 
miles  above  the  snout,  when  the  mean  altitude  was  forty 
feet.  6.  The  low  gradient  of  the  glacier. 


352 


APPENDIX. 


No.  XVII. 


No.    XVII. 
GAME  LIST. 

LIST  OF  ANIMALS  PROCURED  IN  SMITH  SOUND  AND  NORTHWARDS  BY 
THE  CREW  OF  H.M.  SHIP  'ALERT,'  BETWEEN  JULY  28,  1875,  AND 
SEPTEMBER  8,  1876. 


tft  . 

fe     8 

^l* 

O   OJ  "C  " 

-g  b6-_§ 

O  W    r- 

^  §   ^^- 

^    ^^ 

Species 

IP 

pi 

If 

Total 

Fox  (  Vulpes  lagopui) 
Seal  (Plioca  hispida) 

1 

3 
1 

1 
6 

4 

8 

Walrus  (Trichecus  fosmarus)    . 

2 

— 

— 

2 

Hare  (Lepus  glacialis) 

8 

20 

35 

63 

Musk-ox  (Ovibos  moschatus) 

12 

6 

— 

18 

Ptarmigan  (Lagopus  rupestris) 

7 

17 

10 

34 

Eider-duck     (Somateria    spectabilis 

and  mollissima}     .... 

58 

16 

25 

99 

Long-  tailed  duck  (Harelda  glacialis) 

— 

9 

1 

10 

Brent  goose  (Berniola  brenta)  . 

75 

132 

207 

Dovekie  (  Uria  grylle) 

7 

2 

4 

13 

No.   XVII. 


GAME   LIST 


353 


LIST  OP  ANIMALS  PROCURED  IN  SMITH  SOUND  BY  THE  CREW  OP  H.M, 

SHIP  'DISCOVERY,'  BETWEEN  JULY  28,  1875,  AND  SEPTEMBER  8,  1876. 


If! 

*l 

, 

I'l 

Species 

||| 

iSo- 

o  ^ 

3| 

||| 

Total 

1" 

^1 

& 

*l* 

Fox  (  Vulpes  lagopus) 
Seal  (PJioca  barbata') 

i 

4 
4 

3 

! 

4 
9 

Seal  (Plwca  kispida) 

i 

5 

9 

1 

16 

Hare  (Lepus  glacialis) 

9 

139 

5 

— 

153 

Reindeer  (  Cervus  tarandus) 

1 

— 

— 

— 

1 

Musk-ox  (Ovibos  moschatus)     . 

— 

44 

1 

— 

45 

Ptarmigan  (Lagopus  rupestrix) 

1 

13 

4 

— 

18 

Eider  duck   (Sornateria    spectabilis 

and  mollissima)     .... 

4 

9 

6 

— 

19 

Long-tailed  duck  (Harelda  gladalis') 

— 

6 

— 

— 

6 

Brent  goose  (Bernicla  brenta)  . 

— 

56 

26 

— 

82 

Dovekie  (Uria  grylle) 

1 

— 

8 

— 

9 

VOL.    II. 


A  A 


354 


APPENDIX. 


METEOROLO 

The  temperature  of  air  is  recorded  in  degrees  of  Fahrenheit.  The  '  hours  of  w 
recorded  wind  and  weather  lasted.  In  the  column  headed  '  strong  wind  '  is  si 
measure  for  a  '  strong  breeze ; '  force  7  indicating  a  '  moderate  gale.'  b.c.  i 

Yearly  . 


THERMOMETI 

:a 

BAROMETER 

Date 

Maximum 

Minimum 

Mean 

Maximum 

Minimum 

Inches 

Inches 

August    1875-76 

+  44-0 

+  24-5 

+  31-913 

30-062 

29-190 

September    1875 

+  36-5 

+   0-2 

+  15-603 

30-219 

29-211 

October           „ 

+  21-2 

-32-2 

-   4-987 

30-533 

29-490 

November        „ 

f23-0 

-45-7 

-16-847 

30-824 

29-691 

December        „ 

+  35-0 

-46-5 

-22-115 

30-522 

28-979 

January         1876 

+    8-5 

-59-2 

-32-916 

30-205 

29015 

February          „ 

+    2-0 

-66-5 

-37-975 

30-478 

29-224 

March 

-  8-0 

-73-75 

-39-768 

30-527 

29-569 

April 

+  15-0 

-46-5 

-17-963 

30-649 

29:802 

May 

+  32-5 

-14-9 

+  11-212 

30-370 

29-372 

5 

June                 „ 

+  44-0 

+  18-2 

+  32-455 

30-104 

29-379 

j 

July 

+  50-0 

+  29-0 

+  38-356 

29-890 

29-004 

(t 

366  days     . 

+  50-0 

-73-75 

-   3-473 

30-824 

28-979 

2 

Proportion  . 

— 

— 

— 

— 

.     — 

Yearly  J-. 


THERMOMETER 

BAROMETER 

Date 

Maximum 

Minimum 

Mean 

Maximum 

Minimum 

Inches 

Inches 

I 

August    1875-76 

+  41-0 

+  26-0 

+  32-72 

30-352 

29-485 

2 

September   1875 

+  43-0 

+   2-4 

+  18-52 

30-352 

29-338 

2 

October           „ 

+  21-5 

-39-0 

-   9-79 

30-545 

29-437 

2 

November       „ 

+  19-0 

-46-0 

-18-41 

30-877 

29-741 

3 

December       „ 

+  26-0 

-54-0 

-24-54 

30-569 

28-995 

9 

January        1876 

-13-0 

-63-0 

-40-64 

30-253 

29-101 

2 

February         „ 

+   2-0 

-62-0 

-35-00 

30-506 

29-140 

2 

March              „ 

-   8-0 

-70-8 

-37-05 

30-580 

29-561 

3 

April                „ 

+  13-0 

-42-5 

-17-27 

30-729 

.    29-759 

3 

May 

+  33-6 

-20-5 

+  10-04 

30-350 

29-411 

2 

June                 „ 

+  41-0 

+  16-5 

+  32-50 

30-051 

29-379 

2 

July 

+  46-3 

+  29-6 

+  37-21 

29-887 

29-043 

2 

366  days     . 

+  46-0 

-70-8 

-  4-232 

30-877 

28-995 

2 

Proportion  . 

— 

— 

— 

— 

— 

METEOROLOGICAL  ABSTRACT. 


355 


I 
RACT. 


)f  weather '  are  the  relative  number  of  hours  in  each  month  daring  which  the 
of  hours  the  force  of  the  wind  reached  to  or  exceeded  force  6,  the  nautical 
y  with  detached  clouds. 

'Alert,'  1875-76. 


HOURS  OF  WIND 

HOURS  OF  WEATHER 

Aver- 

| 

age 
hourly 

f| 

1 

Snow 

•  Mer- 

*.E. 

E. 

S.E. 

s. 

s.w. 

w. 

N.W. 

N. 

force 

1* 

b.c.   0^ 

i 

Fog 

or 
Rain 

cury 
frozen 

94 

60 

42 

104 

104 

37 

17 

20 

1-4 

25 

476 

268 

49 

74 

8 

6 

30 

21 

192 

39 

227 

29 

2-2 

111 

218 

502 

36 

173 

— 

8 

10 

36 

16 

46 

84 

144 

46 

0-8 

— 

346 

398 

136 

178 

— 

1 

1 

36 

27 

66 

61 

183 

44 

1-0 

10 

566 

154 

25 

29 

35 





24 

34 

65 

35 

211 

75 

0-9 

2 

586 

158 

54 

140 

46 

11 

3 

12 

75 

63 

28 

175 

54 

1-3 

45 

697 

47 

7 

58 

286 

6 

10 

6 

24 

51 

17 

198 

56 

1-25 

52 

543 

153 

14 

67 

398 

17 

22 

50 

26 

59 

22 

237 

48 

1-1 

20 

644 

100 

37 

46 

285 

27 

8 

40 

13 

10 

11 

191 

128 

0-8 

— 

450 

270 

— 

61 

10 

8 

12 



28 

22 

108 

172 

94 

1-0 

12 

304 

440 

— 

180 

— 

12 

14 

22 

2 

140 

38 

204 

80 

1-7 

122 

410 

310 

22 

168 

— 

10 

34 

54 

74 

74 

28 

128 

136 

1-2 

17 

424 

320 

34 

118 

— 

02 

175 

352 

444 

892 

508 

2,087 

810 

1-2 

616 

5,664 

3,120  414 

1,292 

1,060 

•02 

0-02 

0-04 

0-05 

0-10 

0-06 

0-24 

0-09 

— 

0-07 

0-65 

0-35  0-05 

0-16 

0-12 

•Discovery;  1875-76. 


HOURS  OF  WIND 

HOURS  OF  WEATHER 

Maxi- 

mum 
force 

H 

Over- 

Snow 

Mer- 

*.E. 

E. 

S.E. 

S. 

S.W. 

W. 

N.W. 

N. 

&* 

b.c. 

cast 

Fog 

Rain 

frozen 

17 

24 

53 

117 

77 

10 

8 

32 

8 

34 

521 

223 

29 

28 

_ 

40 

16 

20 

80 

100 

16 

52 

76 

7 

16 

308 

412 

80 

120 

— 

40 

8 

— 

4 

20 

4 

44 

20 

4 

— 

504 

240 

— 

144 

— 

10 

20 

29 

1 

1 

13 

f>4 

112 

1 

— 

624 

96 

4 

68 

32 

44 

32 

4 



8 

8 

12 

32 

8 

12 

596 

148 

16 

92 

194 

28 



20 

8 



8 

24 

72 

2 

— 

608 

136 

— 

92 

472 

86 

13 

12 

9 

21 

14 

56 

34 

10 

23 

509 

187 

— 

66 

352 

44 



28 

20 

16 

4 

20 

40 

8 

4 

612 

132 

— 

72 

280 

20 

16 

8 

8 

16 

8 

8 

16 

3 

— 

600 

120 

— 

90 

4 

24 

16 

20 

44 

8 

4 

— 

76 

8 

12 

628 

116 

— 

44 

— 

60 

12 

68 

100 

44 

— 

4 

16 

8 

56 

544 

176 

— 

48 

— 

4 

12 

40 

100 

40 

12 

12 

4 

6 

10 

476 

268 

16 

80 

— 

123 

169 

302 

491 

351 

101 

304 

530 

— 

167 

6,530 

2,254 

145 

944 

1,334 

)-05  0-02 

0-03 

0-06  0-04 

0-01 

0-04 

0-06 

— 

0-02 

0-74 

0-26 

0-01 

0-11 

0-15 

A   2 


350  APPENDIX.  No.  XIX. 


No.   XIX. 

ABSTRACT  OF  RESULTS   OBTAINED  FROM  THE 
TIDAL   OBSERVATIONS 

MADE    Off    BOARD     H.M.     SHIPS     '  DISCOVERY'     AND    '  ALERT '    IN     1875-6. 

BY  THE  REV.  SAMUEL  HAUGHTON,  M.D.,  D.C.L.,  F.R.S. 

Fellow  of  Trinity  College,  Dublin. 

THE  tidal  observations  made  during  the  recent  Arctic  Expe- 
dition were  of  great  value,  and  confirm  the  opinion,  formed 
on  other  grounds,  that  Greenland  is  an  island. 

During  seven  months  (twenty-eight  days  each)  on  board 
the  'Discovery'  at  Bellot  Harbour,  lat.  81°  45',  long.  65°  W., 
hourly  observations  were  made,  broken  by  interpolations  in 
six  days  only. 

On  board  the  '  Alert,'  near  Cape  Sheridan,  lat.  82°  25', 
long.  61°  30'  W.,  the  difficulties  of  observation  were  greater, 
owing  to  the  more  exposed  position  of  the  ship;  notwithstand- 
ing which,  two  months  of  hourly  observations  (with  inter- 
polations in  fifteen  days)  were  secured;  and  these  hourly 
observations  were  supplemented  by  valuable  determinations 
of  the  times  of  high  and  low  water,  and  by  four  hourly  ob- 
servations made  at  other  times. 

The  expedition,  proceeding  northwards  up  Smith  Sound, 


No.  XIX.      ABSTRACT   OF   TIDAL   OBSERVATIONS.         357 

met  the  tide  coming  from  the  north,  at  or  near  Cape  Frazer, 
lat.  79°  40',  and  left  behind  the  tides  of  Baffin's  Bay. 

The  new  tidal  wave,  observed  on  board  both  ships,  is  speci- 
fically distinct  from  the  Baffin's  Bay  tide,  and  from  the  tide 
that  enters  the  Arctic  Ocean  through  Behring's  Straits  ;  and 
it  is,  without  question,  a  tide  that  has  passed  from  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean,  round  Greenland,  northwards,  and  then  westwards. 

The  '  Discovery,'  being  situated  nearer  to  the  head  of  the 
tide   (Cape  Frazer)  than  the  '  Alert,'  had  experience  of  a 
much  larger  tide,  and  it  is  in  every  way  fortunate  that  her 
officers  succeeded  in  making  so  complete  a  series  of  obser 
vat  ions.1 

The  following  is  a  summary  of  the  principal  results. 


I.  '  DISCOVERY.'     BELLOT  HARBOUR. 

The  apparent  Lunitidal  interval  (full  and  change  of  moon) 
ranges  from  llh  00m  to  12h  00™,  and  has  a  mean  value 

im=  llh  34m  8 

corrected  for  the  moon's  motion  in  the  interval  from  the 
passage  of  the  meridian  of  Greenwich. 

In  the  discussion  of  the  tide,  which  is  being  prepared  for 
publication  in  the  '  Transactions  of  the  Royal  Society,'  the 
Semidiurnal  Tide  is  separated  from  the  Diurnal  Tide,  and  its 
constants  carefully  determined.  Contrary  to  what  is  found 
in  the  Baffin's  Bay  tide,  the  Diurnal  Tide  is  very  small,  so 
that  much  the  largest  part  of  the  apparent  tide  is  composed 
of  the  Semidiurnal  Tide,  and  in  this  respect  it  closely  resembles 
the  tides  of  the  British  coasts,  which  are  an  eastern  Atlantic 
tide. 

This  is  well  shown  in  the  following  table,  which  gives 
the  apparent  maximum  Spring  range,  and  minimum  Neap 
range  of  the  tide  at  Bellot  Harbour  ;  contrasted  with  the 

1  I  believe  that  the  credit  of  these  observations  is  mainly  due  to 
Lieutenant  Archer,  who  was  aided  by  Dr.  Coppinger  as  a  volunteer. 


358 


APPENDIX. 


No.  XIX. 


No.  XIX.      ABSTRACT   OF  TIDAL   OBSERVATIONS.          359 


360 


APPENDIX. 


Xo.  XIX. 


Semidiurnal  maximum  Spring  range  and  minimum  Neap 
range. 


Date 

APPARENT  RANGE 

SEMIDIURNAL  RANGE 

Springs 

Neaps 

Springs 

Neaps 

1875 

Inches 

Inches 

Inches 

Inches 

September  16 

78-0 

— 

76-0 

-— 

23 

— 

26-0 

— 

17-8 

30 

73-0 

— 

67-6 

— 

October         8 



15-5 



ll'O 

15 

79-0 

— 

•   78-4 

— 

22 

— 

31-5 

— 

20-8 

28 

66-0 

__ 

66-6 

— 

November     6 

—  . 

20-0 

— 

15-2 

14 

79-5 

— 

74-6 

— 

20 

— 

34-0 

— 

27-3 

28 

65-0 



55-6 

— 

December     6 

— 

32-0 

__ 

25-5 

13 

73-0 

— 

69-4 

- 

21 

-  — 

34-5 

— 

30-2 

29 

66-0 

__ 

55-8 

— 

1876 

January        5 

— 

41-0 

— 

31-8 

13 

77-0 

— 

74-0 

— 

20 

— 

25-5 

— 

20-7 

28 

71-5 

— 

64-0 

— 

February      5 

— 

33-0 

— 

27-9 

11 

83-0 

— 

80-2 

— 

18 

— 

21-5 

— 

9-6 

27 

78-5 

— 

76-8 

— 

March           4 

— 

27-5 

— 

23-5 

12 

84-0 

— 

79-6 

— 

19 

— 

20-0 

— 

11-6 

27 

— 

— 

83-0 

— 

In  the  accompanying  diagram,  I  have  plotted  the  fourth 
and  fifth  columns  of  the  preceding  table,  as  follows  : — 

a  a  is  the  range  of  Spring  tides  following  the  new  moon. 

of  of  is  the  range  of  Spring  tides  following  the  full  moon. 

A  A  is  the  mean  of  the  two  foregoing  curves. 

b  b  is  the  range  of  Neap  tides  following  the  moon's  first 
quarter. 

b'  b'  is  the  range  of  Neap  tides  following  the  moon's 
third  quarter. 

B  B  is  the  mean  of  the  two  foregoing  curves. 


No.  XIX.      ABSTRACT   OF   TIDAL   OBSERVATIONS. 


The  space  between  a  a  and  a'  a'  represents  the  Lunar 
Parallactic  Tide  deduced  from  Spring  tides,  and  the  space 
between  b  b  and  b'  b'  represents  the  Lunar  Parallactic  Tide 
deduced  from  Neap  tides. 

The  range  of  the  Lunar  Parallactic  Tide  deduced  from  each 
is  sixteen  inches. 

The  curves  A  A  and  B  B  show  the  semiannual  variation  of 
the  Lunisolar  fortnightly  tide  cleared  of  lunar  parallax. 

II.  'ALERT.'     CAPE  SHERIDAN. 

The  apparent  Lunitidal  interval  (full  and  change  of 
moon)  observed  on  board  the  '  Alert'  was — 

22h  37m. 

The  following  table  shows  the  relation  which  the  apparent 
Spring  and  Neap  tides  bear  to  the  calculated  Semidiurnal 
Spring  and  Neap  tides,  and  shows,  as  before,  that  the  chief 
tide  is  the  Semidiurnal : — 

Maximum  Spring  and  Minimum  Neap  Tides. — Range  in  Inches. 


Date 

Apparent 

Semidiurnal 

1875 

Inches 

Inches 

September  30 

30-0 

30-0 

October      14 

28-5 

32-8 

22 

12-5 

9-0 

December  14 

,  36-5 

31-0 

21 

17-5 

13-6 

29 

29-5 

25-0 

INDEX. 


ACA 

A  CARIDEA,  ii.  238 

J\.  Admiralty,  Lords  Commis- 
sioners of,  their  approval  of  the 
conduct  of  the  Expedition,  ii.  186 

Agrarians  feildeni,  ii.  320 

Albert  Mountain,  i.  62,  106,  333 

Alca  bruennichi,  i.  22,  25 

—  torda,  i.  22 
-  troile,  i.  22 

Aldrich,  Lieut.,  i.  18,  63,  90,  135, 
138,  141,  146-155,  173,  187,  195, 
211,  254,  266,  283,  302,  314,  315, 
320,  321,  350-354,  359 ;  ii.  I,  3, 
8-10,  46 

—  his  four  days'  journey,  i.  141 

—  extract  from  journal  of,  i.  155 

—  on  the  western  sledge-journey, 
ii.  10-48 

«  Aldrich's  Farthest,'  ii.  48 
« Alert,'  H.M.S.,  list  of  officers  and 
men  of.  i.  ix. 

—  departure  of,  i.  1 

—  gales  experienced  by,  i.  4,  5 

—  caught  in  the  pack,  i.  75  ;  ii.  129 

—  winter-quarters  of.  i.  129 

—  ventilation  of,  i.  181 

—  return  home  of,  ii.  81,  185 

—  animals  procured  by  crew  of,  ii. 
352 

—  abstract  of  meteorological   ob- 
servations  made  by  officers  of, 
ii.  354 

-  tidal  observations  made  on 
board  of,  i.  356 

Alexandra  Haven,  i.  67 

Alfred  Newton  Glacier,  ii.  174 

Alere,  ii.  61 

Ale-ae— Results  of  the  Expedition, 
ii.  323 

All  man,  Dr.  G.  J.,  on  Hydrozoa  col- 
lected by  the  Expedition,  ii.  290 


ARC 

Allman  Bay,  i.  86,  163-!69 

Alpheidas,  ii.  242 

Ampharetidae,  ii.  258 

Amphictenidae,  ii.  258 

Amphipoda,  ii.  244 

Amusements  of  the  travellers,  i. 
189,  192,  263,  322 

Ancient  settlements  near  Etah,i.  54 

Androsace  septentrionalis,  ii.  140, 
303 

Animals  procured  in  Smith  Sound, 
&c.,  ii.  352,  353 

Annelida— Results  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, ii.  257 

Annelids,  i.  110 

Antedon  Eschrichtii,  i.  84 

Appetite,  temporary  loss  of,  by  the 
travellers,  i.  225 

Arachnida — Results  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, ii.  234,  238 

Araneidea,  ii.  238 

Archer,  Lieut.,  i.  284,  303,  304,  308, 
332-334 

Archer  Fiord,  i.  Ill 

Arctic  and  Alpine  fauna  and  flora, 
theory  respecting-,  ii.  239 

Arctic  circle,  a  star  crossing  the,  i. 
150 

crossing  the,  i.  13  ;  recrossing, 

ii.  184 

—  dresses.     See  Clothing; 

—  Expedition,    public    interest  in 
the,  i.  2 

—  '  heds'e-rows,'  i.  233 

—  'Highlanders,'  i.  30,  42  ;  ii.  180, 
187 

—  navigation,  i.  116 

—  scenery,  i.  152 

—  ships,  i.  179 

—  vegetation.     See  Vegetation 
Arcturus,  ii.  53 


364 


INDEX. 


ARG 

Argynnis,  i.  71  ;  ii.  235 

Army  Fiord,  i.  127 

Arthur's  Seat,  i.  295 

Arve  Prins  Island,  i.  22,  24 

'Assistance,'  the,  i.  225 

Astarte,  i.  110;  ii.  334 

Asteroidea,  ii.  262,  264 

Atanekerdluk,  i.  25 

Atlantic,  first  days  in  the,  i.  3 

Auks,  i.  39,  43,  47,  63  ;  ii.  152,  184, 

215 

Aurora,  i.  186,  198 
Austin's  Expedition,  i.  45 
Autumn   travelling  on   the  ice,  i. 

149,  170 

Ayles,  A.,  i.  150,  155  ;  ii.  9,  27-53 
Azalea  procumbens,  i.  17 


BACHE    ISLAND,   i.   61-74:    ii. 
171 

Baffin's  Bay,  i.  9,  21,  48,  51,  71,  72, 
95,  123,  139,  203;  ii.  114,  175, 
180,  181 

Balaena  mysticetus,  i.  7,  71 ;  ii.  197 
Balanidas,  ii.  247 

Banks  raised  by  ice-pressure,  i.  247 
Banks'  Island,  ii.  151 

—  Land,  i.  79,  124 
Bantry  Bay,  i.  2,  3 
Barden  Bay,  ii.  178 
Barometer,  rise  and  fall  of,  on  the 

Atlantic,  i.  4 
Basalt  of  Ovifak,  i.  18 
Bay  of  Mercy,  i.  124 ;  ii.  151 
Beard,  frozen,  i.  280 
Bears,  i.  40,  93,  102,  224,  343 ;  ii. 

188,  195 

*  Bear  scares,'  i.  224 
Beatrix  Bay,  i.  333 
Beaumont,  Lieut.,  i.  273,  284,  298, 

302-306,  313,  316,  338-340  ;  ii.  8, 

47-51,   82-85,  97,  127,  131,  135, 

140,  141 

—  account  by,  of  his  sledge- journey, 
ii.  84,  87 

—  account  by,  of  his  journey  across 
Hall's  Basin,  ii.  135 

Beechey,  Captain,  i.  79 
Behring's  Straits,  i.  80 ;  ii.  151 
Belcher,  Sir  E.,  i.  225  ;  ii.  48,  75 
Bellot  Harbour,  ii.  357 

—  Island,  i.  117, 334  ;  ii.  84, 131-145 

—  Straits,  i.  234 

Belts  of  hummocks,  i.  357 


BUT 

Berkeley,  Rev.  M.  J.,  on  Fungi  col- 
lected by  the  Expedition,  ii.  319 

Bernicla  brenta,  ii.  352,  353 

Berthon  boats,  i.  20 

Bessels,  Dr.,  i.  52  ;  ii.  125,  206 

Bessels  Bay,  i.  107-114  ;  ii.  147 

Betula  nana,  i.  29 

Beverley  Cliffs,  i.  42 

Bicellariadaa,  ii.  284 

Bird,  Admiral  E.,  i.  155 

Birds,  i.  272, 386 ;  ii. 5,  33, 48,  52, 206 

—  non-migration  of,  further  north 
than  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  ii.  48 

Black  Cape,  i.  27,  280,  285,  296, 
330;  ii.  72,  77,  78,  88,  116 

-  Cliff,  ii.  53 

Bay,  i.  156;  ii.  9 

—  Horn  Cliffs,  ii.  92 
Blood-spitting  by  the  travellers,  i. 

237 

Bluebottle  flies,  ii.  143 
Boats,  collapsible,  i.  315 

—  for  sledge-crews,  i.  254 

—  white-painted,  objection  to,  i.  276 
Bolbroe,  Gov.,  ii.  183 

Bombus,  i.  71 ;  ii.  235 

Botany — Results  of  the  Expedition, 

ii.  301 

Brachiopoda,  ii.  233 
Brady,  Dr.  G.  S.,  on  the  Ostracoda 

collected  by  the  Expedition,  ii. 

253 

—  Mr.  H.  B.,  on  the  Foraminifera 
collected  by  the  Expedition,  ii.  295 

Branchipodidas,  ii.  240 
Breath,  vaporisation  of,  i.  250 

—  shortness  of,  i.  236 
Brent-geese,  i.  347  ;  ii.  4,  52,  53,  71, 

73,  124,  129,  130,  216,  352,  353 
Brenta  Bay,  ii.  130 
Brevoort  Island,  i.  58-62  ;  ii.  174 
Brine  at  a  low  temperature,  i.  177 
Brother  John's  Glacier,  i.  53 
Brown  Islands,  i.  37 
Bryant,  G.,  i.  52,  272,  297,  298;  ii. 

96 
Buchanan  Sound,  i.  68 

—  Strait,  i.  65,  73 ;  ii.  173 
Buddington,  Captain,  i.  125 ;  ii.  5 
Buds  on  unprotected  plant,  i.  238 
Bull,  Cow,  and  Calf  Rocks,  i.  3 
Burgomasters,  i.  45 

Busk,  Mr.  G.,  on  the  Polyzoa  col- 
lected by  the  Expedition,  ii.  283 
Butterflies,  i.  71  ;  ii.  143,  236 


INDEX. 


365 


CAB 

CABLE,  chain,  contraction  of,  i. 
226 

Cairns,  i.  45-59,  81,  85,  88,  122, 165, 
240,  327,  336,  337, 343 ;  ii.  2,  104, 
107, 143,  153,  162,  174 
Calidris  arenaria,  i.  329 ;  ii.  207 
Cape  Acland,  i.  48 
—  Albert,  i.  70,  73  ;  ii.  162,  168,  172 

—  Albert  Edward,  ii.  19 

—  Aldrich,  i.  373 ;  ii.  16 

-  Alexander,  i.  48,  50,  54 ;  ii.  157 

—  Alexandria,  ii.  19 

—  Andrew  Jackson,  i.  105 

—  Atholl,  ii.  180 

-  Back,i.  Ill 

—  Baker,  ii.  172 

-  Baird,  i.  Ill ;  ii.  138,  139,  145 
-Beechey,   i.   112,    117-121,   291, 

292;  ii.  123,  126-132 

—  Belknap,  i.  329  ;  ii.  73 

—  Bellot,  i.  53,  112 

—  Bicknor,  ii.  25 

-  Brevoort,  i.  305,  317,  337,  340  ; 
ii.  72,  125 

—  Britannia,  i.  325  ;  ii.  47,  72,  105 

—  Bryan,  i.  106,  111 

-  Bryant,  ii.  47,  72,  98,  106 

-  Buttress,  ii.  99-103 

—  Camperdown,  i.  73 

-  Cleaveland,  ii.  99 

—  Golan,  i.  321  ;  ii.  3,  11,  12,  36 

—  Collinson,  i.  101,  102 ;  ii.  149 

-  Columbia,  ii.  11-18,  24,  33 

—  Constitution,  i.  104,  105 

—  Cracroft,  ii.  72 

—  Defosse,  i.  107,  111 

—  Desolation,  i.  8,  15  ;  ii.  151 
-D'Uryille,  i.  86;  ii.  166 

-  Fanshawe  Martin,  ii.  24 

-  Faraday,  i.  48 

-  Farewell,  i.  6-11 

-  Frazer,  i.   21,    92-101,   123 ;   ii. 
125,  150-153 

—  Frederick  VII.,  i.  120,   121,  288, 
295,  332  ;  ii.  123 

-  Fulford,  ii.  98,  99,  105 

-  Harrison,  i.  81 

—  Hatherton,  i.  55 

-  Hawks,  i.  74,  85-87  ;  ii.  159,  160- 
162,  168 

-  Hay,  i.  79 

-  Hayes,  i.   92  ;  ii.   154,  156,  162, 
169 

—  Hecla,  ii.  11 

—  Hercules,  i.  352 


CAB 

Cape  Hilgard,  i.  89,  91 ;  ii.  156 

-  Isabella,  i.  53-58,  255  ;  ii.  129, 
166,  172-177 

—  James  Good,  ii.  14 

—  John  Barrow,  i.  98  ;  ii.  150 

—  Joseph  Good,  ii.  147,  149 

—  Joseph  Henry,  i.  130,   131,   142, 
148-150,   154,  169,  172,  252,  283, 
302,  308,  313-330,  344,  353-358, 
380,  383,  386;  ii.  1,  8-11,47,  48, 
73,  74 

—  Lawrence,  ii.  146 

-  Lieber,  i.  106-112 ;  ii.  68,    137, 
138,  146 

-  Louis  Napoleon,  L  92;  ii.  155 
-Lupton,   i.    106,    111,    112,   203, 

339;  ii.  72,  116,  131,  136 

—  M'Clintock,  ii.  150 

—  Mary  Cleverley,  i   111 

—  Morton,  i.  107-110 

-  Murchison,  i.  117-119  ;  ii.  141 

-  Napoleon,  i.  90,  91 ;  ii.  155 

—  Norton  Shaw,  i.  100 ;  ii.  150 

—  Ohlsen,  i.  50,  55 

—  Parry,  i.  359 

—  Prescott,  i.  81,  84 ;  ii.  169 

—  Powlett,  ii.  178 

—  Rawson,  i.  138,    140,    146,    164, 
188,  194,  217,  225,  228,  232,  241- 
244,  271,  272,  276,  285,  296,  297, 
306 ;  ii.  52,  67,  70-72,  77,  88 

beds,  ii.  328 

—  Kichards,  ii.  23 

—  Richardson,  i.  172,  298,  328,347; 
ii.  2-5,  45 

—  Sabine,  i.   51-70,   123  ;  ii.    166, 
172,  174 

—  Schott,  i.  88,  90 

—  Sheridan,   i.    127-138,    145-147, 
164,  167,  187,  188,  220;  ii.  65-73, 
361 

-Stanton,  i.  304,   305,  316,   317; 

ii.  72,  92-94 
—  Stephenson,  ii.  22 

—  Stevens,  ii.  172 

—  Sumner,  i.  337  ;  ii.  124 

—  Tyson,  i.  Ill 

-  Union,  i.  Ill,  121-126,  146,  249, 
288,  312;  ii.  71,  72,  114-123 

—  Victoria,  i.  73,  74,  78,  80,  85  ;  ii. 
168,  171,  176 

-  York,  i.  21,  37-46,  51;  ii.  166, 180 
Carabites  feildenianus,  ii.  335,  337 
Carboniferous  limestone,  ii.  332 
Carl  Ritter  Bay,  i.  53,  111  ;  ii.  146 


366 


INDEX. 


CAR 

Carnivora,  ii.  192 

Carrier-pigeons,  i.  6,  199 

—  error  respecting,  i.  6 

Carter,  Mr.  H.  J.,  on  Sponges  col- 
lected by  the  Expedition,  ii.  293 

Cary  Islands,  i.  21,  42-48 ;  ii.  175, 
177,  180 

Cassiopeia  tetragona,  i.  16 

Caterpillars,  ii.  143 

Celleporidae,  ii.  288 

Cellulariadae,  ii.  283 

Cerastium  alpinum,  ii.  78,  311 

Cervus  tarandus,  ii.  353 

Cetacea,  ii.  197 

Chastognatha,  ii.  259 

Chgetomium  glabrum  on  the  cabin- 
walls  of  the  «  Alert,'  ii.  320 

Charr,  i.  329  ;  ii.  70,  71 

Cheilostomata,  ii.  283 

Chester,  Mr.,  i.  336 

Chimney,  frozen,  i.  179 

Christmas  Day,  i.  210 

Chronometers,  i.  20,  34,  39,  77,  340 

Cirripedia,  ii.  247 

Clements  Markham  Inlet,  ii.  11,  62 

Climate  in  relation  to  hill-sides,  i. 
26 

—  difference  of,  in  the  Waigat,  i.  27 

—  of  Hartstene  Bay,  i.  55 

—  effect  of,  on  animal  life,  ii.  299 

—  warmer,  indications  of  past  ex- 
istence of,  ii.  331-338 

Clothing  of  the  travellers,  i.  19, 183. 

206,  226,  273,  276,  279,  301,  309  ; 

ii.  53 
Clouds,  unusual  appearance  of,  i. 

231 
Coal  for  the  'Valorous,'  i.  21 

—  weekly  consumption  of,  i.  202 
Coal  in  vicinity  of  Discovery  Har- 
bour, ii.  333-338 

Coal-beds  near  Cape  Murchison,  ii. 

141,  142 

Coal-mines  of  the  Waigat,  i.  24 
Cochlearia  officinalis,  i.  46  ;  ii.  311 
Cocked-hat  Hill,  i.  66 
Colan,  Dr.,  i.  94,  168,  176,  187,  194, 

201,  211,  231,  269,  314,  315,  318  ; 

ii.  50,  70 
Cold,  first  experience  of,  i.  134 

—  extreme  degree  of,  i.  263 

—  effect     of,    on     quicksilver     of 
glasses,  i.  297 

Coleoptera,  ii.  235 
Colias,  i.  71 ;  ii.  235 


DAL 

Collembola,  ii.  238 

Collinson,  Admiral  Sir  R.,  i.  80,  124 

Colour,  green,  of  the  sea,  ii.  149 

Colymbus,  i.  40 ;  ii.  215 

Comatulse,  i.  84 

Committee  for  inquiring  into  causes 

of  outbreak  of  scurvy,  i.  259 
Compass  in  the  crow's-nest,  i.  38 
Complexion,  effect  of   climate   on, 

ii.  67 

Conchifera,  ii.  229 
Conical  Hill,  i.  383,  390  ;  ii.  40 

—  Rock,  i.  44,  46 
Coniferous  wood,  ii.  343 
Contraction  of  ice.     See  Ice 
Conybeare,  Mr.,  i.  2,  284,  332-335  ; 

ii.  53 

Conybeare  Bay,  i.  333 
*  Cooper  Key -Mountains,'  i.  359 

' Peak,'  ii.  18 

Copepoda,  Oceanic — Results  of  the 

Expedition,  ii.  249 

—  parasitica,  ii.  247 
Copes  Bay,  ii.  171 

Coppinger,  Dr.  R.  W.,  i.  90,  284, 
302-306,  313,  316,  336-343;  ii. 
82-86,  91-96,  111-113,  137,  139, 
165 

—  on  the  cairn  of  Captain  Hall,  i. 
336,  337 

—  on  his  journey  through  M'Cor- 
mick  Pass,  i.  340 

—  report  by,  on  Petermann  Glacier, 
ii.  346 

Cottns,  i.  19 ;  ii.  218 
Cracking  noise  of  the  ice,  i.  197 
Cracks  in  the  ice,  i.  364,  381 ;  ii.  67 
Craig,  J.,  ii.  103-112 

—  P.,  ii.  100 
Crangonidas,  ii.  241 
Crinoidea,  ii.  262,  280 
Crinoids,  i.  84 

« Crossing  Floe,'  i.  272,  273  ;  ii.  77 
Crozier,  i.  124 

Crozier  Island,  i.  104;  ii.  10,  32 
Crustacea,  i.  376  ;  ii.  53 

—  Results  of  the  Expedition,  ii.  240 
Cryolite,  i.  6 

Ctenostomata,  ii.  289 
Cyclopterus  spinosus,  ii.  219 
Cyclostomata,  ii.  288 
Cylichna,  ii.  54 


D 


1ALY  Peninsula,  ii.  84,  132,  144, 
145 


INDEX. 


367 


UAL 

Daly  Mountains,  i.  Ill 

—  Promontory,  i.  Ill 
Dana  Bay  beds,  ii.  330 

Danes,  kindness  of,  to  the  Eskimo, 
i.  33 

Danish  settlements,  disease  amongst 
dogs  in,  i.  175 

Darkness,  great  degree  of,  i.  199,223 

Davis  Strait,  i.  9,  17 ;  ii.  184 

Dean  Hill,  i.  275 

Decapoda,  ii.  241 

Depot  Point,  i.  351.  352 

De  Eance,  Mr.  C.  E.,  on  the  geo- 
logical structure  of  the  coasts  of 
Grinnell  Land  and  Hall  Basin, 
ii.  327 

Devil's  Thumb,  i.  39 ;  ii.  181 

« Diamond  Dust,'  i.  299 

Diastoporidie,  ii.  288 

Diatomacege,  yellow  colour  of  ice 
due  to,  i.  378 

—  colour  of  water  affected  by, 
ii.  152 

—  Kesults  of  the  Expedition,  ii.  323 
Diatoms,  i.  11 

-  beyond  lat.  78°  N.,  list  of,  ii.  325 
Dickie,  Prof.  G.,  ii.  61 

—  on  the  Algae  and  Diatomaceas 
collected     by    the     Expedition, 
ii.  323 

Diet  of  the  travellers,  i.  256,  331, 

348 

Diptera,  ii.  237 
Disco,  i.  13-22 ;  ii.  174,  182,  183 

—  Bay,  i.  14,  18  ;  ii.  183 

-  Coast,  ii.  182 

Disco  Island,  i.  15-32,  55  ;  ii.  141 
Discoloration  of  the  sea,  i.  11 
'Discovery,'    H.M.S ,  list    of    the 
officers  and  men  of,  i.  x. 

—  caught  in  the  pack,  i.  75 

—  winter-quarters  of,  i.  284 

—  return  home  of,  ii.  185 

—  animals  procured  by  crew  of, 
ii.  353 

—  abstract  of  meteorological  ob- 
servations made  by  officers    of, 
ii.  353 

tidal    observations     made    on 
board  of,  ii.  356 

Discovery  Bay,  i.  114,  116, 151,174, 
196,  198,  218,  223,  228-231,  240, 
244,  250,  255,  263,  279-284,  303, 
329,  332,  334  ;  ii.  7,  66-68,  82-84, 
114,  126-145,  157 


EGE 

Discovery  Harbour,  i.  114,  117;  ii. 
82,  145 

Distant  Cape,  i.  117,  333 

~  Point,  ii.  130 

Divers,  i.  40  ;  ii.  215 

Dobbin  Bay,  i.  53,  87,  88,  94  ;  ii.  154, 
157,  160 

Dobing,  ii.  107-112 

Dodge's  Mountains,  i.  60 

Dogs  for  the  sledges,  i.  21,  23,  82, 
84,  137,  154,  173,  175,  193,  211, 
242-250,  261,  266,  270,  271, 
286-339,  391 ;  ii.  3,  8,  44,  46,  64, 
71,  96,  97,  183 

—  disease  amongst,  i.  94,  150-163, 
175,  239-241 

Dog-sledging,  i.  288-324,  335,  339, 
345 ;  ii.  44 

—  difficulties  of,  i.  270 
Doidge,  J.,  ii.  9,  18-42 
Dougall,  W.,  i.  308 

Dovekies,  i.  40,  63,  85,  91,  109 ;  ii. 

71,  130,  156,  182,  214,  352,  353 
Draba,  i.  46 ;  ii.  78,  193,  303 
Dragon  Point,  ii.  98,  104 
Dredging  off  Torske  Bank,  i.  13 
Dresses     of     the    travellers.      See 

Clothing 
« Drift-pits,'  ii.  90 

—  Point,  ii.  90,  94,  107 

—  wood,  ii.  70,  73 

Ducks  (Eider-ducks,  &c.),  i.  20,  37, 
40,53,62,  63,85,  110,  117,  135; 
ii.  5,  52,  53,  134,  168,  182,  216, 
352,  353 

Dumbell  Bay,  i.  169,  345 ;  ii.  8 

—  Lakes,  i.  329 ;  ii.  65,  73 
Duncan,  Prof.   P.   Martin,  on   the 

Echinodermata  collected  by  the 

Expedition,  ii.  260 
Dust  in  ice,  ii.  61,  70 
Dwarf -sorrel,  ii.  67,  71 
Dwarf -willows,  ii.  78 
Dwellings,  ancient,  of  Eskimo,  ii. 

189 

ECHINODERMATA,  i.  84 
—  Results    of     the     Expedi- 
tion, ii.  260 

Echinoderms,  ii.  152,  156 
Echinoidea,  ii.  261,  262 
Echinus  drobachiensis,  i.  84 
Egedesminde,  ii.  183 
Egerton,   Lieut.  Geo.  Le  Clerc,  i. 
23,  120,   121,  153,  237-256,  263- 


368 


INDEX. 


EGE 

273,  282,  283,  297,  298,  305,  307, 
313-317,  323,  329 ;  ii.  8,  68,  73, 
74,  126,  132 

Egerton,  Lieut.  Geo.  Le  Clerc,  re- 
ference by,  to  Lieut.  Rawson,  i. 
269 

—  report  by,  on  the  sledge-dogs,  i. 
271 

—  report  by,  on  his  sledge-journey, 
i.  285 

—  on  drift-wood,  ii.  74 
Eider-ducks.     See  Ducks 
Ella  Bay,  i.  334 

Ellesmere  Land,  i.  48-73  ;  166, 177, 

187 

Emmerson,  G.,  i.  313;  ii.  86,  89 
Empress  Eugenie  Glacier,  i.  99 
Entomostraca,  ii.  246 
Epilobium  latifolium,  i.  68  ;  ii.  311 
1  Erebus,'  the,  i.  124 
Ermines,  i.  241,  273  ;  ii.  141,  193 
Erratics  of  Proven,  i.  29 
Escharidae,  ii.  286 
Eskimos  and  their  traces,  i.  21,  24, 

33,  36,  41-45,  56,  63,  71,  85  ;  ii. 

149,  152,  154,  178,  180-183,  187 

—  discovery  of  ironstone  by,  i.  18 

—  dogs  of,  i.  21,  23,  173,  175 

—  dwellings  of,  i.  71 

—  migration  of,  i.  71 

—  relics  of,  ii.  128 
Etah,  i.  53,  54 ;  ii.  187 
Ethnology — Eesults  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, ii.  187 

Eugenie,  Empress,  presents  made 
to  the  Expedition  by,  i.  90,  183, 
322,  323,  362 

Evigtok,  i.  6 


FABRICIUS,  reference  to,  ii.  205, 
238 

Falcons,  ii.  155,  208 

Feilden,  Captain  H.  W.,  i.  16,  18, 
55,  56,  80,  81,  90-93,  98,  99,  117, 
121,  131,  138,  167,  219,  220,  232, 
274,  296,  310,  313,  317,  323,  325, 
329,  390  \  ii.  3,  9,  45,  70,  71,  128, 
129,  149,  153-156,  168,  175,  301, 
323,  334 

on  results  of  the  Expedition 

in  Ethnology,  ii.  187  ;  Geology, 
ii.  327 ;  Mammalia,  ii.  192 ;  Or- 
nithology, ii.  206 

note    by,    on    the    botanical 


FRA 

collections  of  the  Expedition,  ii. 
326 

Feilden,  Captain  H.  W.,  on  the  geo- 
logical structure  of  the  coasts  of 
Grinnell  Land  and  Hall  Basin, 
ii.  327 

Feilden  Peninsula,  i.  328  ;  ii.  3,  10, 
332 

Fenker,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  ii.  182 

Ferbrache,  i.  384 

Ferns,  i.  17 ;  ii.  140,  301 

Filaria,  ii.  202,  205 

Fire-hole  cut  through  the  ice,  i. 
184,  223 

Fish  obtained  from  Greenlanders, 
i.  20 

Fishes,  i.  84 ;  ii.  156,  218 

Fiskernoes,  i.  11 

Fliescher,  Gov.,  i.  32 

Floeberg  Beach,  i.  138-151,  163, 
167,  172,  188,  218,  230,  231,  244, 
251,  285,  323,  330;  ii.5,  7,46,  70, 
84,  114,  115,  119,  125,  141,  151, 
313-318 

Floebergs,  i.  131,  229,  276 

Flora  of  Proven,  i.  29 

—  near  Dumbell  Harbour,  ii.  193 

—  of  Greenland,  ii.  301 
See  Botany.    Plants. 

Flustridse,  ii.  285 

Fogs  encountered  during  the  Ex- 
pedition, i.  10,  25-37,  44,  315, 
362,  370,  371,  382 ;  ii.  18,  24,  25, 
33,  72,  155,  157 

Fohn  of  Greenland,  i.  207 

Foraminifera — Results  of  the  Ex- 
pedition, ii.  295 

Forbes,  Prof.  Ed.,  theory  of,  ii.  239 

Fossils  from  Bessels  Bay,  i.  110 

—  from  coal-seam,  ii.  142 

—  limestone,  i.  327 ;  ii.  153,  155 

See  App,  ii.  329 

Foulke  Fiord,  i.  53,  54 

Fowling-pieces,  barrels  of,  con- 
tracted by  cold,  i.  173 

'  Fox,'  the,  ii.  95 

Foxes,  i.  46,  114,  237,  273,  305, 339 ; 
ii.  19,  141,  193,  352,  353 

Francombe,  i.  370 

Frankfield  Bay,  ii.  94 

Franklin  Expedition,  i.  124,  347 

—  Search  Expedition,  i.  258,  260 
Franklin  Island,  i.  104,  105  ;  ii.  146 

—  Pierce  Bay,  i.  81 
Franz  Josef's  Land,  ii.  307 


INDEX. 


FEE 

Frederick  the  Eskimo,  i.  24,  150- 
160,  190,  211,  219,  240-246,  280, 
817,  324 ;  ii.  71,  124,  129, 182, 183 

Frederikshaab,  i.  11 

Frost-bite,  cases  of,  among  the  tra- 
vellers, i.  174,  193,  209,  211,  225, 
232,  238,  264,  284,  334,  358-364 

Fulford,  Lieut.,  i.  338,  339;  ii.  68, 
82,  96,  113,  165,  346 

Fulmars,  i.  3,  4,  7,  40  ;  ii.  214 

Fungi — Results  of  the  Expedition, 
ii.  319 


GADUS  fabricii,  ii.  219 
Gales,  heavy,  i.  231 ;  ii.  150 
Game  List,  ii.  352 
'  Gap  of  Dunloe,'  i.  238  ;  ii.  52 
Gastropoda,  ii.  224 
Geographical  discoveries,  i.  252 
Geology  of  — 

Arctic  regions,  ii.  239 

Brevoort  Island,  i.  59 

Cape  Acland,  i.  48,  54 

—  Alexander,  i.  48 

—  Hilgard,  i.  91 

—  Isabella,  i.  57 

—  Murchison,  ii.  141 
—  Napoleon,  i.  91 

—  Ohlsen,  i.  51 

—  Sabine,  i.  55,  62 
—  Victoria,  i.  80 
Gary  Islands,  i.  45 
Discovery   Bay  (area  around), 

i.  114 

Ellesmere  Land,  i.  69 
Foulke  Fiord  (sides  of),  i.  50,  54 
Franklin  Pierce  Bay  (side  of), 

i.  81 

Grinnell  Land,  ii.  327 
Hakluyt  Island,  i.  47 
Hall  Basin,  ii.  327 
Hartstene  Bay  (south  side  of), 

i.49 

Hilgard  Bay  (shore  of),  ii.  74 
Lievely,  i.  17 
Life  Boat  Cove,  i.  51 
M'Cormick  Valley,  i.  341 
Mount  Julia,  i.  327 
Norman  Lockyer  Island,  i.  85, 

91 

Northumberland  Island,  i.  47 
Payer  Harbour  (islands  near), 

i.62 
Polaris  Bay  (vicinity  of),  i.  339 


GKO 

Geology  of — 

Proven,  i.  28,  31 
Sontag  Bay  (shore  of),  i.  48 
Sutherland  Island,  i.  48 
Twin  Glacier  Valley,  i.  69 
Upernivik,  i.  31 

See  also  App,  ii.  327 
—  Results  of  the  Expedition,  ii.  327 
Gephyrea,  ii.  259 
German    Arctic    Expedition,    i.  9, 

124,  164;  ii.  191-195 
Giffard,    Lieut.,   i.    140,    143,    188, 

203,  249,  254,  283,  314,  315,  320- 

323,  353  ;  ii.  8,  10,  13,  36,  53,  71, 

72,  141 

—  extract  from  journal  of,  i.  321 
Glacial  drift,  ii.  334 
Glaciation,  ii.  340 
Glacier  ice-cliffs  without  debris  at 

base,  i.  27 
Glaciers,  i.  17,  27,  41,  43,  48,  66,  67, 

86,  90,  91,  333,  334  ;  ii.  147,  164, 

165,  179 
Glires,  ii.  202 
Gnathopoda,  ii.  246 
Gneiss,  i.  28,  50;  ii.  328 
Godhavn,  i.  3,  22 
Godthaab  Fiord,  i.  9 
Good,  J.,  ii.  24,  27,  36-42 
Goodhaab  district,  i.  12 
Gould  Bay,  i.  93;  ii.  154 
Graah,  i.  7 
Grant  Land,  i.  109,   111,   255,   283, 

305 ;  ii.  105 
Grasses,  ii.  32,  67,  78 
Gray,  A.,  ii.  95-113 
Greenland,   i.  3,  8-46,  55,  60,  124, 
164,   165-176,  239,  240,  245-307, 

314,  325,  335,  339,  340;  ii.  8,  47, 

51,  70,  84-88,  127,  141,  151,  166, 

178-187,  207,  302-311,  356 

—  ice-stream  of,  i.  7 

—  party,  proceedings  of,  ii.  82 

« Greenwich    Observatory,'   i.    177, 

189,  211,  221 
Grinnell  Land,  i.  74,  81,  108-111, 

121,  247,  248,  324,  326,  332  ;  ii. 

47,  48,  142,  151,   170,  171,  176, 

189-195,  310 
remarkable  insect  fauna  of, 

ii.  239 
-  geological  structure  of  the 

coast  of,  ii.  327 

—  paucity  of  glaciers  in,  ii.  343 
Grade  Fiord,  i.  11 


VOL.  II. 


B  B 


370 


INDEX. 


GUI 

Guide  Hill,  ii.  40 

Guillemots,  i.  22,  31,   40,  44,  47; 

ii.  214 
Gulls  (Ivory-gulls,  &c.),  i.  40,  44, 

62,  93  ;  ii.  213,  214 
Gun-cotton,  removal  of  ice  by,  ii.  77 
Gunpowder,  removal  of  ice  by,  ii.  77 
Giinther,  Dr.  A.,  on  the  Ichthyology 

of  the  Expedition,  ii.  218 
Guy  Fawkes'  Day,  i.  190 
Gymnelis  viridis,  ii.  219 


TJAKLUYT  Island,  i.  46,  47 
JUL     HalelminthidEe,  ii.  258 
Halibut,  i.  13 

Hall,  Captain  C.  F.,  i.  30,  130,  152, 
313 

—  cairn  of,  i.  343 

—  grave  of,  i.  303,  335-339 
Hall's  Basin,  i.  106,  109,  117,  284, 

303,  334,  335  :  ii.  68,  72,  83,  128, 

129,  131,  135,  146 

-  geological  structure   of   the 
coast  of,  ii.  327 
-  Land,  ii.  52 

—  Rest,  i.  303,  338  ;  ii.  82,  83,  131 
Hand,  J.,  ii.  93-96 

—  death  of,  ii.  82,  96 
Hannah  Island,  i.  108,  111 
Hans  Island,  i.  105,  111 

'  Hansa,'  the.  i.  9,  124 
Harelda  glacialis,  ii.  352,  353 
Hares,  i.  91,  102,  114,  137,  172,  237, 
241,  312,  314,  324,  328,  334,  339, 
352,  354,  368,  390 ;  ii.  10,  32,  71, 

130,  158,  204,  352,  353 
Harley,  i.  394 

Harley  Spit,  i.  350 

Hart,  Mr.,  i.  90,  335 ;  ii.  153,  301, 
323 

Hartstene  Bay,  i.  21,  41-55  ;  ii.  129 

Haughton,  Rev.  S.,  on  tidal  observa- 
tions made  by  the  Expedition,  ii. 
356 

Hawkins,  i.  367,  369 

Hayes,  Dr.,  i.  30,  53,  79,  88,  101  ; 
ii.  65 

Hayes  Sound,  i.  65-73,  94  ;  ii.  163, 
167,  174,  316 

Heer,  Prof.  O.,  on  the  Miocene- 
shale  fossils  of  Grinnell  Land,  ii. 
336 

Heindrich,  Hans,  i.  29,  40,  303-312; 
ii.  82,  96-112,  182 


ICE 

Hemiptera  (Anoplura),  ii.  237 

Hesperis,  ii.  140 

Hilgard  Bay,  ii.  74 

Hilgard,  Captain,  i.  90 

Hobson,  Lieut.,  ii.  95 

Hoffmeyer,  Captain  K,  i.  207 

Holothuroidea,  ii.  261,  262 

Hoist  einborg,  i.  14 

Hooker,  Sir  J.  D.,  on  the  botanical 

results  of  the  Expedition,  ii.  301 
Human  femur,  finding  of,  ii.  143 
Humble-bee,  i.  71 
Humboldt  Glacier,   i.  96,   105  ;  ii. 

61,  165 
Hummocks,  lowering  sledges  over, 

i.  287 

—  belts  of,  i.  357 

—  of  two  colours,  i.  378 
Hydrophobia,  i.  94,  176 
Hydrozoa — Results  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, ii.  290 

Hymenoptera,  ii.  235 


TCE  of  Greenland,  origin  of,  i.  7,  9 
J_    —  middle,  i.  37 

—  commencement     of     difficulty 
with,  i.  60 

—  vast  thickness  of,  i.  79,  95 

—  attempts  to  saw,  i.  93 

—  heavy  polar,  i.  129 

—  formation  of,  by  snow  falling  on 
salt  water,  i.  137,  168 

—  used  for  drinking  purposes,  i.  168 

—  contraction  of,  i.  226.  229,  239 

—  maximum  thickness  of,  i.  314 

—  temperature  of  water  under,  i. 
376 

—  colours  in,  i.  378  ;  ii.  62 

—  young,  toughness  of,  ii.  159 

—  water-pools  on.    See  Water-pools 

—  growth  of,  ii.  57,  63 

—  decay  of,  ii.  56 

—  break-up  of,  ii.  71 

—  of  the  Petermann  Glacier,  ii.346 

See  Polar  ice. 

Icebergs,  i.  8,  14-25,  41,  42,  72,  75, 
88,  92  ;  ii.  184 

—  fastening  ships  to,  i.  26 

—  dimensions  of,  ii.  161 
Ice-blink,  i.  53 
Ice-boat,  i.  63 
Ice-cap,  ii.  72,  344 

—  absence  of,  in  Grinnell  Land,  ii. 
343 


INDEX. 


371 


ICE 

Ice- cascades,  i.  27 

Ice-dust,  ii.  61,  62 

Ice-foot,  ii.  147,  168,  16i>,  340 

Ice-hinge,  i.  205 

Ice-hummocks,  i.  94 

Ice- stream  of  Greenland,  i.  7 

Ice-wall,  ii.  115,  146,  153 

Ice- waves,  ii.  19,  20 

Iceland  gulls,  i.  44.     See  also  Gulls 

Icelus  hamatus,  ii.  218 

Ichthyology— Eesults  of  the  Expe- 
dition, ii.  218 

'  Igloos,'  i.  53  ;  ii.  188,  189 

Ingletield,  Sir  Edward,  ii.  48 

Inglefield  Gulf,  i.  48 

Insecta—  Kesults  of  the  Expedition, 
ii.  234 

Insect-fauna  of  Grinnell  Land,  ii. 
239,  337 

Insects,  i.  70 

« Investigator,'  the,  i.  124 

Ireland's  Eye,  ii.  48 

Iron  of  Ovifak,  i.  17,  18 

Iron-stones,  meteoric,  so-called,  i.  17 

Isopoda,  ii.  243 

Ivigtut,  i.  207 

Ivory-gulls.    See  Gulls 


TACOBSHAVN,  i.  17 
tl     James  Ross  Bay,  i.  321,    322, 

326  ;  ii.  10,  11,  32,  39 
Jenkins,  W.,'ii.  100-112 
Jensen  Point,  i.  54 
Joe  Island,  i.  106  ;  ii.  68 
John  Brown  Coast,  i.  105 
John  Evans  Glacier,  i.  87 ;  ii.  164 
Jolliffe,  T.,  i.  347,  394 
Jolliffe  Glacier,  ii.  147 
Jones,  Captain  L.  F.,  i.  2,  21 
Jones,  F.,  ii.  97-113 
Jones  Sound,  ii.  48,  181 
—  — ,  probably  most  direct  route 

from  Baffin's  Bay  to  Polar  Sea, 

ii.  48 

Judge  Daly  Peninsula,  i.  334 
Jungermannias,  ii.  313 


KANE,  Dr.,  Expedition  of,  i.  30, 
60,  80,  101,  104,  165 
Kane's  Sea,  ii.  75,  125, 147,  153,  176 
Kangitok,  i.  34,  35 
Kasorsoak  Island,  i.  31 


LER 

Kayaks,  i.  20,  36 

Kennedy,  Mr.,  i.  176 

Kennedy  Channel,  i.  101-111,  234; 

ii.  68,  72,  78,  83, 125-138, 145,  146 
Keppel,  Admiral  the  Hon.  Sir  H., 

i.  2 

Keppel's  Head,  i.  333  ;  ii.  145 
'  Kew  Observatory,'  i.  177,  189,  218, 

221 

Kingatak  Island,  i.  28 
Kitchen-middens,  near  Etah,  i.  54 
Kittiwakes,  i.  3,  6 ;  ii.  214 
Knight  Island,  i.  14 
Knot,  the,  i.  115,  329,  347;  ii.  70, 

80,  211 
Knot  Harbour,  i.  329 ;  ii.  2,  3 


LADIES'  MILE,'  i.  194,  200,201, 
225,  232,  236 

Lady  Franklin  Sound,  ii.  84,  106, 
112,  116,   118,  255,  284,  308,  332, 
334 ;  ii.  68,  125,  132,  144,  145 
—  Strait,  i.  332 ;  ii.  139 

Lafayette  Bay,  i.  106 

Lagopus  rupestris,  i.  70 ;  ii.  210, 352, 
353 

Lake -bottoms,  mud  on  borders  of, 
i.  315 

Lakes,  frozen,  ii.  58 

Laminaria,  i.  19,  110,  144  ;  ii.  343 

Lancaster  Sound,  i.  123,  128,  136, 
139,  236;  ii.  180,  181 

Land,    absence   of,   northward,   ii. 
48,  51 

Larus  glaucus,  i.  45  -f  ii.  21-4 

—  leucopterus,  i.  44 

Larvaa  of  mosquitoes,  i.  22 

Latitude  of  extreme  point  reached 
by  the  Expedition,  i.  173 ;  ii.  32. 

Lawrence,  i.  388,  394 

Leaf -impressions  in  shales,  ii.  141 

Leconte  Island,  i..58 

Lectures  for  the  travellers,  i.  263 

Lefferts  Glacier,  ii.  173,  174 

Leggatt,  G.,  ii.  84 

Leguminosa3,  absence  of,  in  Spits- 
bergen and  Greenland,  ii.  307 

Lemmings,  i.  121,  237,  241,  246,  320, 
339,  356 ;  ii.  19, 193,  202,  344 

Lepidodendra,  ii.  331 

Lepidoptera,  ii.  235 

Lepus  glacialis,  ii.  352,  353, 

Leinaeopodidas,  ii.  247 


B   B   2 


372 


INDEX. 


LIC 

Lichens,  i.  339  ;  ii.  309,  310 
Lievely,  i.  15,  17  ;  ii.  182,  183 
Lifeboat  Cove,  i.  50,  51 
Lignite  near    Cape    Murchison,    ii. 

141,  142 

—  of  Grinnell  Land,  ii.  335 
Limej  trice,  use  of,  for  prevention  of 

scurvy,  i.  256,  331,  348,  381,  393 ; 

ii.  183 

Limestone  fossils,  i.  327  ;  ii.  153, 155 
Lincoln  Bay,  i.  118-126,  288,  295, 

310,  312  ;  ii.  85,  120-123 
Liparis  fabricii,  ii.  219 
Littleton  Island,  i.  51,  52,  59,   62  ; 

ii.  174,  175 

1  Loomeries,'  i.  22,  31,  44 
Looms,  i.  22  ;  ii.  215 
Lorrimer,  i.  321-323 
Lumbricidae,  ii.  259 
Lumbrinereidae,  ii.  258 


TITACKENZIE  Eiver,  i.  79 
IIL     M'Clintock,  Sir    Leopold,  on 
use  of  lime-juice  by  Arctic  voy- 
agers, i.  256-258 

—  reference  to,  ii.  47 
M'Clintock  Channel,  i.  124 
M'Clure,  Sir  R.,  i.  79,  124 
M'Cormick  Pass,  ii.  109 

-  Valley,  i.  317,  340,  341 

Mclntosh,  Dr.  W.  C.,  on  the  Anne- 
lida collected  by  the  Expedition, 
ii.  257 

McLachlan,  Mr.  R.,  on  the  Insecta 
and  Arachnida  collected  by  the 
Expedition,  ii.  234 

Makkak  River,  i.  27 

Malley,  ii.  3,  43,  44 

Mallophaga,  ii.  237 

Mammalia — Eesults  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, ii.  192 

Mann,  ii.  30,  35,  38 

Markham,  Commander,  i.  51,  56,  63, 
80,  82,  93,  98-100,  117,  130,  135- 
143,  148-154,  159,  169-173,  187, 
.  188,  242,  254,  255,  263,  274-276, 
283,  301,  302,  315-317,  344-348  ; 
ii.  1,  5,  8,  10,  46,  48,  53,  62,  139, 
158,  168-175 

—  nineteen  days'  journey  of,  i.  169, 
170 

—  on  the  age  of  Polar  floes,  i.  243 
— /  orders  to,  respecting  the  north- 
ern sledge-journey,  i.  348 


MOS 

Markham,  Commander,  extract 
from  journal  of,  relating  to  the 
northern  sledge- journey,  i.  350 

—  conclusions   of,    respecting    the 
northern  sledge-journey,  i.  395 

—  on  the  growth  of  Polar  ice,  ii.  62 
Markham  Hall,  i.  136,  164 
Maskell,  i.  385,  394 

Maury  Bay,  ii.  150,  153,  156 

May,  Lieut,,  i.  63,  87,  91,  151,   274, 

296,  310-317,  325,  345,  390,  393  ; 

ii.  3,  8,  43 
Mecham,  ii.  47 
Medusse,  ii.  291 
Melville  Bay,  i.  21,  37,  41,  84  ;  ii. 

166,  181 

—  Island,  i.  79,  109,  121,  124,  238  ; 
ii.  6,  65,  75,  302-311 

Membraniporidas,1  ii.  285 
Mergulus  alle,  i.  39,  215 
Meteorological  Abstract  —  '  Alert ' 

and  '  Discovery,'  ii.  354 
«  Middle  ice,'  i.  37,  40 
Midnight  sun,  i.  297 
Miers,  Mr.  E.  J.,  on  the  Crustacea 

collected   by  the  Expedition,  ii. 

240 

Miller,  Mr.,  i.  309 
Milne  Bay,  ii.  26 
Miocene,  ii.  333 
Mirage,  i.  279 ;  ii.  14,  352 
Mitchell,  D.,  ii.  9,  40-46 

—  Mr.,  i.  308,  312,  317 ;  ii.  153 
Mitten,   Mr.    W.,   on    Mosses    and 

Jungermannias   collected   by  the 

Expedition,  ii.  313 
Moisture  in  the  Arctic  ships,  i.  179, 

229,  230 

Moldrup,  Gov.,  i.  28 
Mollusca,  i.  84  ;  ii.  156 

—  Results  of    the   Expedition,   ii. 
223,  342 

Monodon  monoceros,  i.  41 ;  ii.  197 

Moon,  monthly  bulletin  respecting, 
i.  191 

Moons,  mock,  i.  195 

Morton,  Mr.,  i.  104 

Mosquitoes,  i.  22,  71 

Moss,  Dr.,  i.  81,  91,  113,  137,  138, 
169,  187,  203,  209,  225,  237,  241, 
267,  276-279,  283,  301,  302,  308, 
313,  319,  345,  348,  352-354,  376, 
377,  393  ;  ii.  42,  53,  54,  61, 67,  71, 
130,  143,  152,  157,  323 

—  on  formation  of  Polar  floes,  ii.  59 


INDEX. 


373 


MOS 

Moss,  Dr.,  observations  on  sea-water 
by,  ii.  158 

—  analysis  of  sea-water  by,  ii.  164 

—  on  Sagitta  bipunctata,  ii.  259 
Moss,  Mr.  E.  J.,  analysis  of  coal  by, 

ii.  337 

Mosses,  i.  339  ;  ii.  21,  78,  313,  335 
Moths,  i.  71 
Mount  Albert,  ii.  105 

—  Bartle-Frere,  i.  325 

—  Carey,  i.  94 

-  Hall,  i.  245 

-  Hooker,  ii.  97-105 

—  Joy,  i.  96 

—  Julia,  i.  130,  325,  327 

—  Mary,  i.  130 

-  May,  ii.  99 

-  Neville,  i.  333 

-  Parry,  i.  120 

-  Pullen,  i.  274,  275,  380 

—  Punch,  ii.  105 

—  Rawlinson,  i.  325 

—  Wyatt,  ii.  97 
Mountain  avens,  ii.  78 

Mud  overlying  tertiary  deposits, 
ii.  334 

Mud-beds  of  Grinnell  Land,  ii.  344 

Murchison  Sound,  i.  48 

Mushroom  Point,  i.  350,  394  ;  ii.  46 

Musk-oxen,  i.  68,  71,  89,  113,  120, 
280,  284,  324, 328,  334  ;  ii.  51,  54, 
73,  124,  132,  344,  352,  353 

—  musky  taste  of  meat  of,  i.  234, 
235,  237 

Myodes  torquatus,i.  121;  ii.  202,  344 
Mysidas,  ii.  243 


NARES,  Captain  Sir  George,  ex- 
tracts from  journal  of,  i.  23, 
136,  139,  146,  164,  185,  261,  297  ; 
ii.  2,  46,  52,  118,  124,  142,  156, 
167,  171 

—  arrangement    by,    of    diet    for 
sledge-parties,  i.  258 

—  on  the  northern  sledge-journey, 
i.  348-395 

—  on  results  of  the  northern  and 
western  sledge-journeys,  ii.  48 

—  orders  of,  to  Lieut.  Beaumont, 
ii.  86 

Narwhal,  i.  41,  62,  71 ;  ii.  197 
Natives  of  Cape  York,  i.  41 
Near-sighted  men,  their  advantage, 
i.  229 


PAG 

Nereidae,  ii.  258 

Newman  Bay,  i.  106,  111,  118,  317, 
336-343  ;  ii.  72,  97,  109,  111,  125 

Night,  darkness  of,  in  high  lati- 
tudes, i.  150 

Ninnis,  Dr.,  i.  76,  94 ;  ii.  66 

Norman,  Eev.  A.  M.,  on  the  Oceanic 
Copepoda  collected  by  the  Ex- 
pedition, ii.  249 

Norman  Lockyer  Island,  i.  81,  85, 
91  ;  ii.  168-174 

—  limestones  of,  ii.  329 

North,  farthest  point  reached,  i. 
173;  ii.  30-32 

North  Pole,  impossibility  of  reach- 
ing by  sledging,  ii.  51 

not  to  be  reached  through 

Smith  Sound,  i.  326 

North  Somerset,  i.  177 

«  North  Water,'  i.  40 

Northern  Sledge  Journey,  abridged 
account  of,  i.  348 

Northumberland  Island,  i.  45-47 

Norway  spruce,  ii.  335 

Nostoc  aureum,  ii.  61 

Noursoak  Peninsula,  i.  27,  29,  55 ; 
ii.  141 

Nyctea  scandiaca,  i.  121 ;  ii.  208 

Nymphon,  ii.  53 

Nymphonidaa,  ii.  248 


OBSERVATION  PEAK,  ii.  39 
Observatories,   magnetic    and 
astronomical,  erection  of,  i.  177 

Observatory  Hill,  i.  194 

Offley  Island,  i.  112  ;  ii.  346 

Oligochaeta,  ii.  259 

Oliver,  Prof.  D.,  on  flowering  plants 
collected  by  the  Expedition,  ii. 
310 

«  Oo-sook,'  the,  i.  63 

Ophiuroidea,  ii.  262,  272 

Ornithology — Results  of  the  Expe- 
dition, ii.  206 

Osborn,  Sherard,  reference  to,  i. 
233 ;  ii.  48 

Ostracoda— Results  of  the  Expe- 
dition, ii.  253 

Ovibos  moschatus,  ii.  344,  352,  353 

Ovifak,  i.  17,  18 


-DAGOPHILA   EBURNEA,  i.  4O; 
r      ii.  213 


374 


INDEX. 


PAL 

«  Palaeocrystic  '  floes,  i.  361,  362 
Palaeozoic  rocks,  ii.  328 
'Pandora,'  the,  i.  16;  ii.  114,  157, 

172,  174,  180,  182,  185 
Papaver  nudicaule,  i.  46  ;  ii.  310 
Paraselena,  i.  195,  208 
Parhelion  on  each  side  of  the  sun, 

i.  265,  301 
Parker,  J.,  i.  155 
Parr,  Lieut.,  i.  71,  144,   148,  169, 

172,  184,  237,  255,  263,  272,  278, 
283,  302,  344,  352-373,  387-391, 
395 ;  ii.  3,  9,  45,  53-55,  62,  70, 
71,  75,  77,  129,  130,  149 

arduous  walk  of,  i.  345 

Parry,  Captain,  echinodermata  ob- 
tained by,  ii.  281 
Parry,  Sir  E.,  i.  79,  124,  151,  155, 

173,  180,  254,  395  ;  ii.  68,  69 

—  on  ventilation  of  Arctic  ships,  i. 
180 

Parry  Islands,  ii.  48,  191 

—  Peninsula,  ii.  11,  38 
—  Kock,  i.  20 

Paul,  C.,  ii.  100-112 

-  death  of,  ii.  82,  113 

Payer,  Lieut.  J.,  i.  59 

Payer  Harbour,  i.  61,  63  ;  ii.  173, 
176,  313 

Peabody  Bay,  i.  96 

Pearce,  i.  367,  372 

Pearson,  i.  394 

Peat-moss,  ii.  335 

Pedicularis,  i.  17  ;  ii.  303 

<  Penknife  ice,'  ii.  68,  69 

Penny,  Captain,  echinodermata  ob- 
tained by,  ii.  281 

Permian  rocks,  absence  of,  in  Arctic 
regions,  ii.  333 

Petermann  Fiord,  i.  107,  111,  112, 
255,  339;  ii.  96,  138,  344 

—  Glacier,  i.  96  ;  ii.  165 

report  on,  ii.  346 

Petersen,  N.  C.,  i.  266,  301,  313,  315 

—  illness  and  death  of,  i.  269,  318, 
319 

Petrels,  i.  4 

Petty,  H.,  i.  308 

Phalarope,  ii.  211 

Phoca  barbata,  i.  63  ;  ii.  196,  353 

—  groenlandica,  i.  40 

—  hispida,  i.  40  ;  ii.  195,  344,  352, 
353 

Phyllopoda,  ii.  246 
Phyllodocidse,  ii.  258 


PON 

Pigeons,  i.  6,  199 

Plants,  i.  339  ;  ii.67,  141,  310,  331- 
334 

—  flowering,  collected  by  the  Ex- 
pedition, ii.  310 

—  of  the  <  Ursa  stage,'  ii.  331,  332 

—  of  Grinnell  Land,  ii.  336 
Plant-bearing  shales,  ii.  334 
Plovers,  ii.  210 

Point  Hayes,  ii.  154 

—  Koldewey,  i.  69 

—  Moss,  ii.  36 

—  Sheridan,  i.  169 

—  Stubbs,  ii.  33 

Polar  floes,  formation  of,  ii.  59 
saltness  of,  ii.  60 

—  ice,  vast  power  of,  i.  96 
heavy,  i.  129 

formidable  nature  of,  i.  136, 

139,  148,  233,  234 

crack  in,  i.  243 

power  of,  i.  247 

difference  between,  and  an 

ordinary  floe,  ii.  117 

—  lands,  elevation  of,  i.  247 

—  pack,  i.  233 

ice,  impediments  to  travelling 

over,  i.  395 

—  Sea,  thickness  of  ice  in,  i.  79 
Robeson    Channel    opening 

into,  i.  102,  111 

shore  of,  i.  127 

entering,  i.  134 

'  Polar  Sea,  Open,'  ii.  207 

Polaris  Bay,  i.  106,  111,  112,  278, 

303,304,313,334-343;  ii.5,8,68, 

82,  83,  95-97,  108-112,  126-140 
«  Polaris  '  Expedition,  i,  51,  54,  112, 

116,  117,  125,  127,  139,  146,  199, 

253,  262,  272,  284,  313,  336,  340 ; 

ii.  52,  78,  83,  125,  146,  176,  188- 

192 
Polaris  Peninsula,  ii.  124 

—  Promontory,  i.  Ill,  117 

Poles,    doubtful  if    snow  is    ever 

melted  at,  ii.  7. 

See  also  North  Pole 
Polychaeta,  ii.  258 
Polycystina,  ii.  299 
Polynias,  or  waterpools,  i.  234. 

See  Waterpools 
Polynoidae,  ii.  258 
Polyzoa — Results  of  the  Expedition, 

ii.  283 
Ponds  Bay,  ii.  181 


INDEX. 


375 


POP 

Poppies,  i.  17;  ii.  21,  32,  78 

Porpoises,  ii.  182 

Port  Foulke,  i.  41,  54,  55,  Gil ;  ii.  65, 

143,  175 

Porter,  G.,  i.  360-369 
-  death  of,  i.  328,  345,  392 
Portsmouth,  departure  of  the  Ex- 
pedition from,  i.  1 

—  return  to,  ii.  185 
Possession  Bay,  ii.  180 
Potentilla,  i.  46  ;  ii.  193,  311 
President's  Land,  i.  127 
Priapulidaa,  ii.  259 

Prince   Imperial  Island,  i.  89,  90 ; 

ii.  157-162 
Prince  of  Wales  Mountains,  i.  48, 

67,72 

Prince  Patrick  Island,  ii.  47 
Princess  Marie  Bay,  i.  80,  81,  85  ; 

ii.  164,  170 
Procellaria  glacialis,  i.  3  ;  ii.  214 

—  pelagica,  i.  4 

Prologue  spoken  at  the  Royal  Arctic 

Theatre,  i.  215 
Protococcus  nivalis,  i.  16 
Proven,  i.  28-31  ;  ii.  183 
Ptarmigan,  i.  46,  70,  91,  114,  135, 

158,  210,  238,  272,  275,  312,  314, 

319,  324,  339,  354 ;    ii.   10,  210, 

352,  353 

Pteropoda,  ii.  223 
Ptychogastria  polaris,  ii.  290 
Puffinus  anglorum,  i.  3 

—  griseus,  i.  7 

—  major,  i.  4 

Pullen,  Rev.  H.  W.,i.  120,  187,  215, 
232,  244,  246,  276,  283,  296 

—  prologue,  and  lines  on  the  sledge- 
travellers,  by,  i.  215  ;  ii.  49 

Pycnogonida,  ii.  248 


Q 


UEEN,  H.M.  the,  congratulations 
from,  on  the  departure  and  on 
the  return  of  the  Expedition,  i. 
1  ;  ii.  186 


RABIES  among  the  sledge-dogs, 
i.  175,  176 
Radiolaria,  ii.  300 
Radmore,  J.,  i.  347,  385,  394 
Radmore  Harbour,  ii.  147 


HOY 

Rae,  Dr.,  on  use  of  lime-juice  by 
Arctic  voyagers,  i.  257 

Raised  beaches,  i.  341 ;  ii.  66,  153, 
154 

Ranunculus,  ii.  78 

Ravens,  ii.  158,  209 

Ravine  Bay,  ii.  46 

Rawlings,  T.,  i.  110,  384,  388 

Rawlings  Bay,  ii.  146 

Rawson,  Lieut.  W.,  i.  90,  114,  117, 
135-140,  152,  153,  166,  167,  174, 
192,  240-249,  255,  256,  263,  266, 
269,  273,  282-284,  288,  292,  298, 
305-308,  339,  340  ;  ii.  85,  86,  90- 
97,  111-113,  127-132 

—  attack  by,  on  musk-oxen,  ii.  132 

Rawson  Headland,  i.  135 

Rayner,  E.,  ii.  96 

Razor-bills,  i.  22 

Record  Point,  i.  333 

Red  snow,  i.  16,  43 

Reef  Island,  ii.  101,  103 

Refuge  Harbour,  i.  80 

Regan,  i.  273;  ii.  96 

Reindeer,  i.  53,  54,  68,  89 ;  ii.  188, 
198,  344 

Rensselaer  Bay,  ii.  151 

—  Harbour,  i.  60,  104 
Repulse  Bay,  i.  340 

-  Harbour,  i.  305,  316,  337 ;  ii.  88, 

89,  95,  107,  125 

'  Resolute,'  the,  i.  236,  266  ;  ii.  65 
Return  of  the  Expedition,  ii.  140, 

185 

Rhizopoda  reticularia,  ii.  295 
Richards,  Sir  G.  H.,  on  use  of  lime- 
juice  by  Arctic  travellers,  i.  256 

—  reference  to,  ii.  48 
Richardson,  Sir  John,  ii.  68 
Richardson  Bay,  i.  101  ;  ii.  149 
Rissa  tridactyla,  i.  3  ;  ii.  214 
Ritenbenk,  i.  21-24,  32 

Robeson  Channel,  i.  102,  111,  112, 
117-145,   153,  167,  174,  188-227, 
234,  242,  249,  262,  272,  285,  298- 
332;  ii.  53,  70-87,  114-131,  142 
Rock- cod,  i.  20 
Rock-crystal     flakes     from    arrow 

heads,  ii.  128 
Rockhill,  ii.  94 
Ross,  Sir  James,  i.  155,  259 
Ross,  Sir  John,  i.  6  ;  ii.  187,  281 
Routine  in  Arctic  ships,  i.  212 
Royal  Arctic  Theatre,  i.  195,  209, 
215,  231 


376 


INDEX. 


SAB 

a  ABELLIM;,  a.  259 

U  Sagitta,  ii.  259 
Sail  Harbour,  ii.  37 
Sailing-orders  of  the  Expedition,  i. 

p.  xi. 
Saint  George's  Fiord,  ii.  98,  105 

—  Patrick's  Bay,  i.  120;  ii.  68,  130, 
132,  136 

Harbour,  i.  291,  292 

Salmo  alipes,  ii.  221 

—  arcturus,  i.  329  ;  ii.  220 

—  naresii,  ii.  220-222 
Salmon-fishing  at  Disco,  ii.  182 
Salmon-trout,  species  of,  i.  20 
Salt  in  sea-water  ice,  i.  168 
Saltness  of  Polar  floes,  ii.  60 

Salt  water,  action  of  snow  on,  i.  137 
Salt-water  ice,  melting-point  of,  i.  7 

—  thickness  of,  i.  79 
Sanderlings,  i.  329 ;  ii.  210 
Sanderson's  Hope,  i.  31 

<  Sastrugi,'  i.  218,  222,232,  288,  307  ; 

ii.  15-22 
Saxicavse,  ii.  334 
Saxicola  aenanthe,  i.  29  ;  ii.  207 
Saxifraga  oppositifolia,  i.  238  ;  ii. 

207 
Saxifrages,  i.  17,  329  ;  ii.  2,  21,  32, 

67,  78,  140,  193,  203-212,302,311 
Scalibregmidas,  ii.  258 
School  established  for  the  crew,  i. 

187 
Scoresby  on  Spitsbergen  ice,  i.  79 

—  Bay,  i.  100,  101,  106  ;  ii.  150 
Scurvy  amongst  the  crews,  i.  256, 

284,  314,  318,  323,  324,  331,  344- 
346,  373,  395  ;  ii.  9,  22,  33, 34,  50, 
81,  82,  85,  93,  103 

—  amongst  the  Eskimo,  ii.  183 

—  committee   for  .inquiring    into 
causes  of,  i.  256;  ii.  86 

Sea,tempprature  and  specific  gravity 
of,  i.  7,  8,  72,  240,  320 ;  ii.  158, 
164,  180,  184 

—  discoloration  of,  i.  11 

—  green  colour  of,  ii.  149 
Sea-bed,  raised,  i.  247 
Sea-bottom  off  Torske  Bank,  i.  13 
Sea- water,  analysis  of,  ii.  164 
Seaweed,  i.  19,  144  ;  ii.  53,  54 
Seals,  i.  8,  40,  62,  71,  110,  137,  279  ; 

ii.  130,  152,  182,  188,  195,  352, 
353 

Seal-skins,  supply  of,  for  the  tra- 
vellers, i.  19,  226 


SNO 

Self,  J.,  i.  314,  317 ;  ii.  3,  44,  45 
Semisuberites  arctica,  ii.  293 
Sextants,  effect  of  cold  on  quick- 
silver of,  i.  279 
Shales,  ii.  333 
Shearwaters,  i.  3,  4,  7 
Shift  Eudder  Bay,  i.  291,  292 
Ships,  fastening  them  to  icebergs, 
i.26 

—  galleys  of,  improvement  in,  i.  149 
Shirley,  J.,  i.  358-372,  394 
Shortest  day,  i.  209 

Shortness  of  breath,  complaints  of, 

i.  236 
Sickness  of  sledge-crew,  i.  346. 

See  Scurvy 

Silurian  limestones,  ii.  329,  344 
Simmonds'  Island,  ii.  45 
Simmons,  J.,  i.  150,  155,  249,  273, 

295,  296,  314 
Simmons  Island,  i.  351 
Simpson,  i  384,  388 
Skale  Island,  i.  28 
Skua,  the,  i.  389 ;  ii.  214 
Sky,  northern,  colours  of,  i.  248 
Sladen,     Mr.    W.    Percy,    on    the 

Echinodermata  collected  by  the 

Expedition,  ii.  260 
Sledge-crews,  dietary  of,  i.  259 

—  exercise  of,  i.  273 

—  sickness  amongst,  i.  346 

—  address  to,  i.  348 
Sledge-driving,  i.  82 

Sledge -equipments,   weight    of,    i. 

172 
Sledges,  carrying  ice-boats  on,  i.  63 

—  preparation  of,  i.  277 
Sledging,  i.  128, 151-173  ;    ii.  46,  84 

—  results  of  autumn  journey  by,  i. 
173 

Sleeping-bags,  i.  351 

Smith,  Herr  Inspektor  and  Mrs.  K., 
i.  15, 17,  21  ;  ii.  182 

Smith,  Mr.  E.  A.,  on  Mollusca  col- 
lected by  the  Expedition,  ii. 
223 

Smith  Sound,  i.  3,  21,  41-72,  80,  90, 
128,  137,  227,  255,  278,  313  ;  ii. 
17,  151,  163-176,  296-310,  352 

North  Pole  unattainable  by 

route  of,  i.  326 

—  —  animals  procured  in,  ii.  352 
Snow,  action  of,  on  salt  water,  137 

—  decay  of,  i.  310 ;  ii.  79 

—  evaporation  of,  i.  225 


INDEX. 


377 


SNO 

Snow,  iridescent  colours  of,  i.  356 

—  on  the  uplands,  i.  273 

-  red,  i.  16,  43 

—  space  beneath,  i.  225 

Snow-blindness  amongst  the  tra- 
vellers, i.  298,  302,  352-360,  373  ; 
ii.  14,  27',  96 

Snow-buntings,  i.  16,  29,  115, 
317-329,  339,  347,  386;  ii.  26, 
32,  33,  209 

Snow-buntings,  pleasure  of  hearing 
first  notes  of,  i.  115 

Snow-crystals,  i.  205 

Snow-dust,  i.  221 

Snow-houses,  i.  177 

Snow-house  Point,  i.  155 

Snow  Point,  ii.  107 

-  Valley,  i.  354,  389 
Snowy-owls,  i.  121,    278,   324;   ii. 

67,  208 

Somateria  mollissima,  i.  20 ;  ii. 
352,  353 

—  spectabilis,  i.  20  ;  ii.  352,  353 
Sounding  for  land  at  the  farthest 

point  reached,  ii.  31 

Specific  gravity  of  sea-water,  i. 
376  ;  ii.  158,  164,  184 

Spitsbergen,  i.  9,  79,  155  ;  ii.  141, 
301 

Sponges,  ii.  156,  293 

Spongida — Eesults  of  the  Expe- 
dition, ii.  293 

Spoons,  horn  and  metal,  i.  299 

Spring  travelling,  i.  253 

Spruce,  Norway,  ii.  335 

Stalknecht  Island,  i.  59 

Starfish,  i.  110 

Stars,  i.  196,  199,  207,  222,  232, 
236,  263 

Stellaria,  ii.  193 

Stephenson,  Captain,  i.  41,  53,  56, 
59,  70-75,  80,  86,  94,  103,  116, 
153,  174,  200,  233,  255,  256,  284, 
303,  308-312,  332-339 ;  ii.  68,  82, 
83,  126,  131,  143,  145,  161,  170, 
185 

Stephenson  Land,  ii.  105 

Sterna  macrura,  i.  117  ;  ii.  4,  207 

Stomatopoda,  ii.  243 

Stones,  circles  of,  ii.  189 

Storm-petrels,  i.  4 

Strepsilas  interpres,  i.  115,  329;  ii. 
207 

Stubbs,  ii.  34-38 

Stuckberry,  i.  323 


TRI 

Sun  at  midnight,  i.  13,  35,  88,  297 
—  number  of  days'  absence  of,   i. 
223 

—  parhelion  on  each  side  of,  i.  265, 
301 

—  power  of,  in  Polar  regions,  ii.  7 
Sunrise  Point,  i.  50,  51 
Supplies,  storage  of,  i.  21 
Sutherland  Island,  i.  48,  49 
Svarte  Vogel  Bay,  i.  24 
Svarten  Huk,  i.  27,  29 

Syllidse,  ii.  258 


,  ii.  193,  194 
« Tegetthoff,'  the,  i.    62,  250, 
395 

Temperature  of  sea- water,  i.  7, 8, 18, 
72,  240,  320;  ii.  158,  164,  180, 
184 

—  low,  first  experience  of,  i.  134 

—  of  the  earth,  arrangements  for 
registering,  i.  140 

—  unusual  rise  of,  i.  202 

—  at  different    heights    from  the 
floe,  i.  242 

—  of  the  ship  in  winter,  i.  250 

—  mean,  of  Feb.  1876,  i.  262 

—  of  water  beneath  the  ice,  i.  376 
Terebellidae,  ii.  258 

Terns,  i.  85,  117  ;  ii.  4,  213 

Terraces,  formation  of,  ii.  342 

<  Terror,'  the,  i.  124 

Tertiary  rocks,  ii.  333 

Thank  God  Harbour,  i.  262,  284,  338 

Thaw,  commencement  of,  ii.  8,  52, 

67,  80 
Theatrical  performances,  i.  195, 209, 

211,  231 
Thermometers,  affected  by  ice,  i. 

240 

—  difficulty  of  comparing,  i.  264 

—  spirit,  comparison  of,  i.  241 
Thornback,  ii.  3,  43 

Three  Sisters  Island,  i.  67,  69 
Tidal  observations,  i.  119;  ii.  356 

—  registers,  i.  218 
Tidal-cracks  in  the  ice,  ii.  52 
Tidal-wave  under  ice,  pulsation  in, 

ii.  53 

Tobacco-pipes,  freezing  of,  i.  224 
Torske  Band,  i.  11,13 
Tossukatek  Glacier,  i.  24 
Transit  instruments,  fixing,  i.  184 
Trichecus  rosmarus,  ii.  352 


VOL.  II. 


C  C 


378 


INDEX. 


TRI 

Triglops  pingelii,  ii.  218 
Trilobite,  ii.  155 

Tringa  canutus,  i.  115,  329;  ii.  207 
Trochus,  i.  110  ;  ii.  54 
Tukingarsuk,  i.  28 
Turnstones,  i.  115,  329;  ii.  210 
Twin  Glacier  Valley,  i.  67-69,  121 
Tyndall  Glacier,  ii.  179 


UNGULATA,  ii.  198 
United   States   Mountains,   i. 
130,  131,  148,   166,  167,  239,  275, 
317,  323,  324,  333  ;  ii.  5,  67,  105, 
132 

Upernivik,  i.  34,  35,  207 ;  ii.  181 

—  Harbour,  i.  32,  34 

Uria  grylle,  i.  40 ;  ii.  214,  352,  353 

Urnula  hartii,  ii.  320 

'  Ursa  stage,'  ii.  331,  332,  345 


T7ALENTIA  Harbour,  ii.  185 
Y      'Valorous,'  the,  i.  2,3,8,  15, 

21-25  ;  ii.  256,  296 
Vegetation  in  the  Arctic   regions, 
i.  241,  251,  272,  312, 328,  339, 347  ; 
ii.  32,  78,  140 

Ventilation  of  Arctic  ships,  i,  179 
Vesiculariadse,  ii.  289 
Victoria  Head,  i.  100 
-  Lake,  i.  155 
—  Mountain,  i.  62,  106,  333 
View  Hill,  i.  353 
—  Point,  i.  159  ;  ii.  40-42 
Vulpes  lagopus,  ii.  352,  353 


TTTAIGAT  Straits,  i.  21-26  ;  ii.  181 

VV    Walrus  Shoal,  i.  81,  85  ;  ii.  169 


TEL 

Walruses,  i.  8,  40,  71,  82  ;  ii.  152, 

170,  188,  196,  352 

Ward  Hunt  Island,  ii.  19,  24,  25,  32 
Washington  Irving  Island,   i.  88  ; 

ii.  160,  161 

Washington  Land,  i.  96,  105 
Watercourse  at  Cape  Sheridan,  ii.  65 
Watercourse  Bay,  ii.  141,  142 
Water-pools  on  ice,  ii.  55,  68,  72, 

121,  130,  134,  143,  144,  159,  160 
Western  sledge  journey,  ii.  10 
Weyprecht,   Lieut.    C.,  i.  62,  250, 

395 

Weyprecht  Islands,  i.  66  ;  ii.  173 
Wind  in  the  Waigat,  i.  26 

—  rebound  of,  from  a  steep,  i.  228 
Winstone,  i.  394 

Winter,  preparations  for,  i.  174 
Winters  of  Greenland,  i.  32 
Whale  Fish  Islands,  ii.  182 

—  Sound,  i.  48;  ii.  178,  180 
Whales,  i.  7,  71 ;  ii.  182,  184,  197 
Wheat  found  at  Polaris  Bay,  i.  340 
Wheatears,  i.  29 

Whiddon,  Mr.  E.,  i.  22 
White,  Mr.,  i.  283,  301 
Wind,  Arctic  navigation  greatly 

dependent  on,  i.  116 
Wolstenholme  Island,  i.  44 
Wolves,  i.  279,  302,  351,  390 ;  ii.  192 
Woolley,  i.  322,  323 
Wootton,  Mr.,  i.  145,  147,  237,  310, 

317,  319;  ii.  76 
Wrangel  Bay,  i.  120,  121,  290,  294  ; 

ii.  123 
Wyville  Thomson  Glacier,  ii.  174 


Bay,  ii.  27,  30 
Young,  Sir  Allen,   i.   16,   45, 
255  ;  ii.  114, 129, 172-175, 180, 185 


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14  Sampson  Low,  Marston,  &  Co?s 

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List  of  Publications.  1 5 


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L 


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1 6  Sampson,  Low,  Marston,  &>  Go's 

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1 8  Sampson  Low,  Marston,  6°  Co.  s 

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List  of  Publications.  1 9 


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in  I  vol. ,  small  post  8vo,  cloth  extra,  6s. 
Mohr  (E.)  To  the  Victoria  Falls  of  the  Zambesi.     By  EDWARD 

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rately, paper  cover,  gd. 

Shooting:  its  Appliances,  Practice,  and  Purpose.  By  JAMES 
DALZIEL  DOUGALL,  F.S.A.,  F.Z.A.  Author  of  "Scottish  Field 
Sports,"  &c.  Crown  8vo,  cloth  extra,  los.  6d. 

"The  book  is  admirable  in  every  way We  wish  it  every  success." — Globe. 

"A  very  complete  treatise Likely  to  take  high  rank  as  an  authority  on 

shooting." — Daily  News. 

Silent  Hour  (The).     See  Gentle  Life  Series. 
Silver  Pitchers.     See  ALCOTT. 

Six  Hundred  Robinson  Crusoes ;  or,  The  Voyage  of  the  Golden 
Fleece.  A  true  Story  for  old  and  young.  By  GILBERT  MORTIMER. 
Illustrated.  Post  8vo,  cloth  extra,  $s. 

Sketches  from  an  Artist's  Portfolio.     By  SYDNEY  P.    HALL. 

About  60  Fac-similes  of  his  Sketches  during  Travels  in  various  parts  of 
Europe.  Folio,  cloth  extra,  3/.  3^. 

"A  portfolio  which  any  one  might  be  glad  to  call  their  own." — Times. 

Sketches  of  Life  and  Scenery  in  Australia.  By  a  Twenty-five 
Years'  Resident.  I  vol. ,  demy  8vo,  cloth  extra,  145-. 

Sleepy  Sketclies  ;  or,  How  we  Live,  and  How  we  Do  Not  Live. 
From  Bombay.     I  vol.,  small  post  8vo,  cloth,  6s. 
"  Well-written  and  amusing  sketches  of  Indian  society."— Morning  Post. 

Smith  (G.)  Assyrian  Explorations  and  Discoveries.  By  the  late 
GEORGE  SMITH.  Illustrated  by  Photographs  and  Woodcuts.  Demy 
8vo,  6th  Edition,  i8j. 

Smith  (G.)  The  Chaldean  Account  of  Genesis.  Containing  the 
Description  of  the  Creation,  the  Fall  of  Man,  the  Deluge,  the  Tower 
of  Babel,  the  Times  of  the  Patriarchs,  and  Nimrod ;  Babylonian 
Fables,  and  Legends  of  the  Gods ;  from  the  Cuneiform  Inscriptions. 
By  the  late  G.  SMITH,  of  the  Departmennt  of  Oriental  Antiquities, 
British  Museum.  With  many  Illustrations.  Demy  8vo,  cloth  extra, 
5th  Edition,  i6s. 


List  of  Publications.  2  7 

Snow -Shoes  a/id  Canoes ;  or,  the  Adventures  of  a  Fur-Hun  to 
in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Territory.  By  W.  H.  G.  KINGSTON.  2nd 
Edition.  With  numerous  Illustrations.  Square  crown  Svo,  cloth 
extra,  gilt,  7-r.  6d. 

South  Australia:  its  History,  Resources,  and  Productions. 
Edited  by  W.  HARCUS,  J.P.,  with  66  full-page  Woodcut  Illustrations 
from  Photographs  taken  in  the  Colony,  and  2  Maps.  Demy  Svo,  2is. 

Spain.  Illustrated  by  GUSTAVE  DORE.  Text  by  the  BARON 
CH.  D'AviLLiER.  Containing  over  240  Wood  Engravings  by  DORE, 
half  of  them  being  Full-page  size.  Imperial  4to,  elaborately  bound 
in  cloth,  extra  gilt  edges,  3/.  3^. 

Stanley  (H.  M.}  How  /  Found  Livingstone.  Crown  Svo,  cloth 
extra,  Js.  6d.  ;  large  Paper  Edition,  los.  6d. 

"My  Kalulu,"  Prince,  King,  and  Slave.  A  Story 

from  Central  Africa.  Crown  Svo,  about  430  pp.,  with  numerous  graphic 
Illustrations,  after  Original  Designs  by  the  Author.  Cloth,  7.$-.  6d. 

Coomassietand  Magdala.  A  Story  of  Two  British 

Campaigns  in  Africa.  Demy  Svo,  with  Maps  and  Illustrations,  i6s. 

Through  the  Dark  Continent,  which  see. 

St.  Nicholas  for  1878.  The  First  Number  of  the  New 
Series  commenced  November  1st,  1877,  and  contains  a  New  Story  by 
LOUISA  M.  A LCOTT,  entitled  "Under  the  Lilacs."  is.  Monthly. 

Stolz  (Madame)  The  House  on  Wheels.  Small  post  Svo,  2s.  6d. 
See  also  Rose  Library. 

Story  without  an  End.  From  the  German  of  Carove,  by  the  late 
Mrs.  SARAH  T.  AUSTIN.  Crown  4to,  with  15  Exquisite  Drawings 
by  E.  V.  B.,  printed  in  Colours  in  Fac-sjmile  of  the  original  Water 
Colours ;  and  numerous  other  Illustrations.  New  Edition,  7.$-.  6d. 

-  square  4to,  with  Illustrations  by  HARVEY,     zs.  6d. 
Stowe  (Mrs.  Beecher}  Dred.     Cheap  Edition,  boards,  2s.  Cloth, 

gilt  edges,  3^.  6d. 
Footsteps  of  the  Master.     With    Illustrations   and  red 

borders.     Small  post  Svo,  cloth  extra,  6s. 

Geography,  with  60  Illustrations.     Square  cloth,  45-.  6d. 

Little  Foxes.     Cheap    Edition,   15-. ;  Library  Edition, 


Betty's  Bright  Idea. 

My    Wife   and   J ';  or,   Harry   Henderson's  History. 

Small  post  Svo,  cloth  extra,  6s* 

—  Minister's  Wooing,  $s.-,  Copyright  Series,  is.  6d.'}  cl.,  2s.* 
-  Old  Town  Folk.     6*. :  Cheap  Edition,  2s.  6d. 
Old  Town  Fireside  Stones.     Cloth  extra,  3 s.  6d. 

*  See  also  Rose  Library. 


28  Sampson  Low,  Marston,  6°  Co.'s 

Stowe  (Mrs.  Beecher)  We  and  our  Neighbours.  I  vol.,  small 
post  8vo,  6s.  Sequel  to  "  My  Wife  and  I."* 

Pink  and  White  Tyranny.  Small  post  Svo,  3^.  6d. ; 

Cheap  Edition,  is.  6d.  and  2s. 

Queer  Little  People,     is. ;  cloth,  zs. 

Chimney  Corner,     is.  •  cloth,  is.  6d. 

The  Pearl  of  Orr's  Island.     Crown  Svo,  5*.* 

Little  Pussey  Willow.     Fcap.,  2s. 

Woman  in  Sacred  History.  Illustrated  with  15  Chromo- 
lithographs and  about  200  pages  of  Letterpress.  Demy  4to,  cloth 
extra,  gilt  edges,  25^. 

Street  Life  in  London.   By  J.  THOMSON,  F.R.G.S.,  and  ADOLPHE 

SMITH.  One  volume,  4to,  containing  40  Permanent  Photographs  of 
Scenes  of  London  Street  Life,  with  Descriptive  Letterpress,  25^. 

Studies  from  Nature.  24  Photographs,  with  Descriptive  Letter- 
press. By  STEVEN  THOMPSON.  Imperial  410,  35^. 

Sub-Tropical  Rambles.     See  PIKE  (N). 

Sullivan  (A.M.,  M.P.).     See  "  New  Ireland/' 

Summer  Holiday  in  Scandinavia  (A).  By  E.  L.  L.  ARNOLD. 
Crown  Svo,  cloth  extra,  los.  6d. 

Sumner  (Hon.  Charles).     See  Life  and  Letters. 

*~rAUCHNITZ!S    English    Editions    of    German    Authors. 
-*-       Each  volume,  cloth  flexible,  2s.  ;  or  sewed,  is.  6d.    (Catalogues  post 

free  on  application. ) 
Tauchnitz  (B.)   German  and  English  Dictionary.     Paper,  is. 

cloth,  is.  6d.  ;  roan,  2s. 
French  and  English.     Paper,  i s.  6d. ;  cloth,  2s  •  roan, 

2s.  6d. 
Italian   and  English.      Paper,    is.    6d.  •    cloth,    25. ; 

roan.  2s.  6d. 
Spanish  and  English.     Paper,  is.  6d. ;  cloth,  2s. ;  roan, 

25.  6d_ 

—  New  Testament.     Cloth,  2s. ;  gilt,  2s.  6d. 


The  Telephone.  An  Account  of  the  Phenomena  of  Electricity, 
Magnetism,  and  Sound,  as  Involved  in  its  Action  ;  with  Directions  for 
Making  a  Speaking  Telephone.  By  Prof.  A.  E.  DOLBEAR,  Author  of 
"The  Art  oY Projecting,"  &c.  Second  Edition,  with  an  Appendix  De- 
scriptive of  Prof.  BELL'S  Present  Instrument  130  pp.,  with  19  Illus- 
trations, is.  Contents  :  Electricity — Magnets — The  Galvanic  Battery — 
Thermo-Electricity — Magneto-Electricity — Magnetic  Induction — Mag- 
neto-Electric Machines— Secondary  Currents— What  is  Electricity?— 

*  See  also  Rose  Library. 


List  of  Publications.  29 


— Theories — Velocity — Sound — Constitution  of  a  single  sound-wave — 
Pitch — Limits  of  Audibility — Effects  of  sound  upon  other  bodies — 
Sympathetic  Vibrations — Resonance— Timbre — Tone  Composition- 
Form  of  a  compound  sound-wave — Correlation — Magnetic  Sounds — 
ITelmholtz'  Electric  Interrupter— Reiss'  Telephone— Gray's  Telephones 
—Bell's  Telephone — The  Author's  Telephone — How  to  make  a  Tele- 
phone— Appendix. 

"The  book  is  illustrated  with  numerous  figures;  it  describes  several  forms  of 
the  Telephone,  and  is,  besides,  a  clear  and  masterly  compendium  of  a  large  part  of 
science." — Morning  Post. 

Tennyson's  May  Queen.  Choicely  Illustrated  from  designs  by 
the  Hon.  Mrs.  BOYLE.  Crown  Svo  (See  Choice  Series),  2s.  6d. 

Textbook  (A)  of  Harmony.  For  the  Use.  of  Schools  and 
Students.  By  the  late  CHARLES  EDWARD  HORSLEY.  Revised  for 
the  Press  by  WESTLEY  RICHARDS  and  W.  H.  CALCOTT.  Small  post 
Svo,  cloth  extra,  3.5-.  6d. 

The  Banns  of  Marriage.  By  BUTTON  COOK,  Author  of 
"  Hobson's  Choice,"  "  A  Book  of  the  Play,"  "Doubleday's  Children," 
&c.  2  vols.,  crown  Svo,  21  s. 

Thebes,  and  its  Five  Greater  Temples.     See  ABNEY. 

Thotnson  (f.)  The  Straits  of  Malacca,  Indo- China,  and  China; 
or,  Ten  Years'  Travels,  Adventures,  and  Residence  Abroad.  By  J. 
THOMSON,  F.R.G.S.,  Author  of  "Illustrations  of  China  and  its 
People."  Upwards  of  60  Woodcuts,  from  the  Author's  own  Photo- 
graphs and  Sketches.  Demy  Svo,  cloth  extra,  2is. 

TJiompson  (Stephen)  Old  English  Homes :  a  Summer's  Sketch- 
Book.  By  STEPHEN  THOMPSON.  25  very  fine  Permanent  Photo- 
graphs by  the  Author.  Demy  4to,  cloth  extra,  gilt  edges,  2/.  2s. 

Thcrne  (E.)  The  Queen  of  the  Colonies ;  or,  Queensland  as  / 
saw  it.  I  vol.,  with  Map,  6s. 

Through  the  Dark  Continent :  The  Sources  of  the  Nile;  Around 
the  Great  Lakes,  and  down  the  Congo.  By  HENRY  M.  STANLEY. 
2  vols.,  demy  Svo,  containing  about  100  Full-page  and  other  Illustra- 
tions and  S  Maps,  42^. 

"  One  of  the  greatest  geographical  discoveries  of  the  age." — Spectator. 
"  Mr.  Stanley  has  penetrated  the  very  heart  of  the  mystery.  .  .  ._  He  has  opened 
up  a  perfectly  virgin  region,  never  before,  so  far  as  known,  visited  by  a  white 
man." — Times. 

To  the  Arctic  Regions  and  Back  in  Six  Weeks.  By  Captain 
A.  W.  M.  CLARK  KENNEDY  (late  of  the  Coldstream  Guards).  With 
Illustrations  and  Maps.  Svo,  cloth,  15^. 

Tour  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  India.     See  RUSSELL. 

Trdlope  (A.)  Harry  Heathcote  of  Gangoil.  A  Story  of  Bush 
Life  in  Australia.  \Vith  Graphic  Illustrations.  Small  post,  cloth,  5^. 

Turkistan.  Notes  of  a  Journey  in  the  Russian  Provinces  of 
Central  Asia  and  the  Khanates  of  Bokhara  and  Kokand.  By  EUGENE 
SCHUYLER,  Secretaiy  to  the  American  Legation,  St.  Petersburg. 
Numerous  Illustrations.  2  vols,  Svo,  cloth  extra,  5th  Edition,  2/.  2s. 


30  Sampson  Low,  Marston,  6°  Go's 


Two  Americas  ;  being  an  Account  of  Sport  and  Travel,  with 
Notes  on  Men  and  Manners  in  North  and  South  America.  By  Sir 
ROSE  PRICE,  Bart.  I  vol.,  demy  8vo,  with  Illustrations,  cloth 
extra,  2nd  Edition,  iSs. 

"  We  .have  seldom  come  across  a  book  which  has  given  us  so  much  pleasure."  — 
Land  and  Water. 

Two  Supercargoes  (The}  ;  or,  Adventures  in  Savage  Africa. 
By  W.  H.  G.  KINGSTON.  Square  imperial  i6mo,  cloth  extra,  js.  6d. 
Numerous  Full-page  Illustrations. 

1/ANDENHOFF  (George,  M.A.).     See  "Art  of  Reading 
r     Aloud." 

--  Clerical  Assistant.     Fcap.,  35.  6d. 
-  Ladies'  Reader  (The}.     Fcap.,  5*. 

Verne's  (Jules]  Works.  Translated  from  the  French,  with 
from  50  to  loo  Illustrations.  Each  cloth  extra,  gilt  edges  — 

Large  post  &vo,  price  los.  6d.  each  — 

1.  Fur  Country. 

2.  Twenty  Thousand  Leagues  under  the  Sea. 

3.  From  the  Earth  to  the  Moon,  and  a  Trip  round  It. 

4.  Michael  Strogroff,  the  Courier  of  the  Czar. 

5.  Hector  Servadac. 

6.  Dick  Sands,  the  Boy  Captain. 

Imperial  1  6mo,  price  'js.  6d.  each  — 

1.  Five  Weeks  in  a  Balloon. 

2.  Adventures  of  Three  Englishmen  and  Three  Russians  in 

South  Africa. 

3.  Around  the  "World  in  Eighty  Days. 

4.  A  Floating  City,  and  the  Blockade  Runners. 

5.  Dr.  Ox's  Experiment,  Master  Zacharius,  A  Drama  in  the 

Air,  A  "Winter  amid  the  Ice,  &c. 

6.  The  Survivors  of  the  "  Chancellor." 


Mysterious  Wand.  3vol,, 

9.  Secret  of  the  Island. 
10.   The  Child  of  the  Cavern. 

The  following  Cheaper  Editions  are  isstied  with  a  few  of  the 
Illustrations,  in  paper  wrapper,  price  is./  cloth  gilt,  2s.  each. 

1.  Adventures  of  Three  Englishmen  and  Three  Russians  in 

South  Africa. 

2.  Five  Weeks  in  a  Balloon. 

3.  A  Floating  City. 

4.  The  Blockade  Runners. 


List  of  Publications.  3 1 


Verne's  (Jules)  Works  (Cheap  Editions),  continued: 

5.  From  the  Earth,  to  the  Moon. 

6.  Around  the  Moon. 

7.  Twenty  Thousand  Leagrues  under  the  Sea.     Vol.  I. 

8.  Vol.  II.     The  two  parts  in  one,  cloth,  gilt,  3-r.  6d. 

9.  Around  the  World  in  Eighty  Days. 

10.  Dr.  Ox's  Experiment,  and  Master  Zacharius. 

11.  Martin  Paz,  the  Indian  Patriot. 

12.  A  Winter  amid  the  Ice. 

13.  The  Fur  Country.     Vol.  I. 

14.  Vol.  II.    Both  parts  in  one,  cloth  gilt,  $s.  6d. 

Viardot  (Louis).     See  "  Painters  of  all  Schools/" 

TX/ALLER  (Rev.  C.  H.)  The  Names  on  the  Gates  of  Pearl, 
W      and  other  Studies.     By  the  Rev.  C.  H.  WALLER,  M.  A.     Crown 
8vo,  cloth  extra,  6s. 

A  Grammar  and  Analytical  Vocabulary  of  the  Words  in 

the  Greek  Testament.  Compiled  from  Briider's  Concordance.  For 
the  use  of  Divinity  Students  and  Greek  Testament  Classes.  By  the 
Rev.  C.  H.  WALLER,  M.  A.,  late  Scholar  of  University  College,  Oxford. 
Tutor  of  the  London  College  of  Divinity,  St.  John's  Hall,  Highbury. 
Part  L,  The  Grammar.  Small  post  8vo,  cloth,  2s.  6d.  Part  II.  The 
Vocabulary. 

Adoption   and  the    Covenant.      Some    Thoughts    on 

Confirmation.     Super-royal  i6mo,  cloth  limp,  2s.  6d. 

Warburtoris  (Col.  Egerton)  Journey  across  Australia.  An 
Account  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  sent  out  under  the  command  of 
Colonel  E.  Warburton.  With  Illustrations  and  a  Map.  Edited  by 
H.  W.  BATES,  Esq.,F.R.G.S.  Demy  Svo,  cloth,  i6s. 

Warner  (C.  D.}  My  Summer  in  a  Garden.  Boards,  is.  6d. ; 
cloth,  2.s.  (Low's  Copyright  Series.) 

Back-log  Studies.     Boards,  is.  6d.;  cloth,  2s. 

Mummies  and  Moslems.     Svo,  cloth,  1 2 s. 

Westropp  (H.  M.)  A  Manual  of  Precious  Stones  and  Antique 
Gems.  By  HODDER  M.  WESTROPP,  Author  of  "The  Traveller's 
Art  Companion, "  "  Pre-Historic  Phases, "  &c.  Numerous  Illustrations. 
Small  post  Svo,  cloth  extra,  6s. 

Whitney  (Mrs.  A.  D.  T.)  The  Gay  worthy  s.     Cloth,  35-.  6a. 
—  Faith    Gartney.     Small  post   Svo,   3*.   6d.      Cheaper 


Editions,  is.  6d.  and  2s. 

Real  Folks.     12 mo,  crown,  3^.  6d. 

Hitherto.     Small  post  Svo,  3*.  6d.  and  2S.  6d. 


32     Sampson  Low,  Marston,  &  Co.'s  List  of  Publications. 

Whitney  {Mrs.  A.  D.  T.)  Sights  and  InsigJits.  3  vols.,  crown 
Svo,  3u.  6d. 

Summer  in  Leslie  Goldthwaite' s  Life.     Cloth,  3*.  6d. 

The  Other  Girls.     Small  post  Svo,  cloth  extra,  3*.  6d. 

We  Girls.     Small  post  Svo,  3^.  6d.  \  Cheap  Edition, 

is.  6d.  and  2s. 

Wikoff  (H. )  The  Four  Civilizations  of  the  World.  An  Historical 
Retrospect.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  12s. 

Wills  j  A  Few  Hints  on  Proving,  without  Professional  Assistance. 
By  a  PROBATE  COURT  OFFICIAL.  5th  Edition,  revised  with  Forms 
of  Wills,  Residuary  Accounts,  &c.  Fcap.  Svo,  cloth  limp,  is. 

Wilson  (H.  Schultz).    See  "Alpine  Ascents  and  Adventures." 

With  Axe  and  Rifle.  By  W.  H.  G.  KINGSTON.  With  nu- 
merous Illustrations,  square  crown  Svo,  cloth,  extra  gilt,  "js.  6d. 

Woolsey  (C.  D.,  LL.D.)  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  Inter- 
national  Law ;  designed  as  an  Aid  in  Teaching  and  in  Historical 
Studies.  Reprinted  from  the  last  American  Edition,  and  at  a  much 
lower  price.  Crown  Svo,  cloth  extra,  Ss.  6d. 

Words  of  Wellington:  Maxims  and  Opinions,  Sentences  and 
Reflections  of  the  Great  Duke,  gathered  from  his  Despatches,  Letters, 
and  Speeches  (Bayard  Series).  2s.  6d. 

World  of  Comets.  By  A.  GUILLEMIN,  Author  of  "  The 
Heavens."  Translated  and  edited  by  JAMES  GLAISHER,  F.R.S. 
i  vol.,  super-royal  Svo,  with  numerous  Woodcut  Illustrations,  and  3 
Chromo-lithographs,  cloth  extra,  31$.  6</. 

"The  mass  of  information  collected  in  the  volume  is  immense,  an  the  treatment 
of  the  subject  is  so  purely  popular,  that  none  need  be  deterred  from  a  perusal  of 
it." — British  Quarterly  Re-view. 

VENOPHON'S  Anabasis ;  or,   Expedition  of   Cyrus.     A 
"^          Literal  Translation,  chiefly  from  the  Text  of  Dintorff,  by  GEORGE 
B.  WHEELER.     Books  I  to  III.     Crown  Svo,  boards,  2s. 

Books  I.  to  VII.     Boards,  3*.  6d. 

(J.  F.)  Five  Weeks  in  Greece.     Crown  Svo,  IQS.  6d. 


fttnfton: 

SAMPSON  LOW,  MARSTON,  SEARLE,   &  RIVINGTON, 
CROWN  BUILDINGS,  188,   FLEET  STREET. 


043540006