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RABBIT-BOOK FOR THE MANY;

CONTAINING

THE HISTORY OF THE RABBIT

FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES;

DESCRIPTIONS OF ALL THE SHOW AND
FANCY VARIETIES ;

AND

FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR SELECTION, BREEDING,
AND MANAGEMENT; THE TREATMENT OF THEIR
DISEASES; AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF

THEIR DWELLINGS.

With Portraits of all the Choice Varieties.

BY CONTRIBUTORS TO

THE JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND POULTRY CHRONICLE.

LONDON:
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE
GARDENER OFFICH,
162, FLEET STREET.

> | 2
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LIdHOoOoY WALYDAI `

FRANC ISCVS DARWI N +

THE RABBIT:

(LEPUS CUNICULUS.)

0

HISTORY.

Сохку is the name by which this animal is first mentioned in
all our earliest records—a name evidently derived from some
yoot common to most European languages. In Italian it is
called Coniglio; in Spanish Conejo ; in Portuguese Coelbo; in
German Koniglein; 19. Dutch Konyn; in Swedish Kanin; in
Danish Kanine; in ancient British Cwningen: and in Latin
Cuniculus. We are told by Varro that this name was given to
the animal by his countrymen on account of their dwelling in
burrows—cuniculos (De Re Rustica, lib. 8, с. 12) : but it might
be that the burrows derived their name from that of their makers
and inhabitants, which is sustained by Шап, who says (De
Nat. Anim. xiii. 15) that the name is of Spanish origin.

Sonini says that the Rabbit was called in Greek dasypous—
that is, hairy foot; but we have thought this applied to the -
Hare—in Chaldee арға; in Arabic vebar; in Persian besan-
gerah; in Illyrian cralik, or krokk; in Austrian kuniglhase;
in Flemish konyn; and in Russian and Polish rok.

The Rabbit wil only thrive in a wild' state in temperate
' climates. It will only live under any circumstances in very hot
countries; and in Sweden, and elsewhere having long severe
winters, it can only be preserved in houses. Northern Africa
and the southern parts of Europe seem to have been its native

A2

2 EARLY NOTICES,

places. In America it was unknown until introduced by

Europeans.

The Chinese legislator Confucius ranges.the Rabbit amoug
animals worthy of being sacrificed to gods, and prescribes thew
multiplication. Even now Rabbits are sacrificed on their aitars
twice a-year—in spring and autumn. Thirty thousand Rabbits
are annually sacrificed. These sacrifices are made in one
thousand six hundred temples in spring to ask that the earth
may be as fruitful as Rabbits, and in autumn to return thanks
for that fruitfulness. Many races, or varieties, of Rabbits are -
bred in China with success; and the populations consume a
great number. 3

It is certain that the Rabbit was venerated by the ancients,
and, as in the case of fowls, altars were raised to it in the Isle
of Delos in Ortygia, now called the Grecian Archipelago. ‘The
Greeks even went во far as to ornament with marble the entries
of their warrens, or vast galleries where these animals could have
a common issue and multiply.

From Greece the cuniculine race passed into Spain, and par-
ticularly to the Balearic Тез. Pliny mentions that the in-
habitants of these were obliged to defend themselves against
their voracity, as they ravaged the harvests, and undermined the
houses and lands with their burrows. The prodigious fecundity
of these little animals was considered a plague—a public calamity ;
and being unable to get rid of them the islanders asked the
Emperor Augustus to send some Roman troops to aid in destroy-
ing them. The troops were sent and with them ferrets. Of
course, these statements refer to wild Rabbits. (Pliny’s Nat.
Hist., b. viii., с. 81.)

The Phoenicians were the first navigators who discovered the
southern part of Spain, and penetrated into this extremity of
Europe. Even in the Phoenician language is the etymology of
the name which that country now bears. 16 is said that formerly
Armorica, the ancient Spain, was so overrun with Rabbits, that
by dint of burrowing under ground, they even overturned the

RABBITS IN SPAIN. 8

houses of the inhabitants. Spanija in the Pheenician language
signifies a Rabbit, of which the Latins have made Hispania, and
we Spain. It is then very probable that the name Hispania was
substituted by the Romans for that of Armorica, at the time of
their- conquest, to distinguish it as the “ Rabbit country,”
they changed the name of the country of the Celts into Ош,
Gallia, or “country of cocks.”

This opinion is somewhat sustained by the fact, that on the
reverse of a medal of the Emperor Adrian Spain is represented
by a woman sitting on the ground with a Rabbit squatting upon
her robe. (Addison on Medals. Dial. iii., series iii, fig. 6.)
There was a pack of cards formerly in the possession of Francis
Douce, Еза., the four suits in which were roses (hearts), pinks
(diamonds), columbines (spades), and Rabbits (clubs). The
originals are believed to have been from the pencil of ‘the cels-
brated German artist, Martin Schoen, who died in 1486.
(Struts Sports and Pastimes of England.) We have no doubt,
judging from the costume of the kings, queens, and knaves of
those four suits, and considering the contentions going on between
the four great European powers at the time in which they were
drawn, that they were intended to represent England, Austria,
France, and Spain. Every card-player does not kuow that the
term basto is derived from the Spanish Bastos, a club; and
spades from espados, a sword, in the same language.

In confirmation of our opinion we find that on the monument
of Richard Cour de Lion, in the cathedral of Notre Dame, at
Rouen, there is the head of a Rabbit peeping out of a hole, and
a dog watching it. This, says Mr. Alfred Way, was not placed
there without design; and a writer, in answer, observes that it
probably alludes to that monarch’s successful attacks upon Spain
and Sicily, on the coins of both of which countries Rabbits are
well-recognised symbols.— (Notes and Queries, v. 598.)

Strabo, who calls the Rabbit “ tke burrowing Hare,” says (iti. 2,
§ 6) that it was found over nearly the whole of Spain, andin the
Balearic Islands, reaching also as far as Massilia (Marseilles, in

4 RABBIT OF THE BIBLE.

France). Polybius mentions (xii. 3) that the Rabbit is a
native of Corsica.

The notices by Varro, Strabo, Polybius, Ælian, and Pliny,
are the earliest which we can identify with the animal known to
us as the Rabbit. It is quite certain that the Shaphan of the
Old Testament (Zev. х1., 5, Deut. xiv., 7, Psalm civ., 8, Prov.
xxx., 26) is not our Coney or Rabbit. The translators of our
version knew of no other animal but this at all agreeing with
&he Shaphan, and, therefore, so translated it. But the Rabbit is
not a native of the countries in which the Israelites sojourned,
nor is there the slightest probability that it was known to
Moses, David, or even Solomon. At all events, the Levitical
law would not forbid the eating of an animal the Israelites never
saw. The Hare is common enough in Palestine and adjacent
countries, and so is the Askkoko, the habits of which animal
closely agree with that of the Shaphan as mentioned by Solomon.
He mentions this animal as one of the four * which are little
upon the earth, but are exceeding wise.” “Тһе Saphans are
but a feeble folk, yet make they their houses in the rocks.”
(Prov. xxx., 24-26.) Mr. Bruce says that this animal, the
Ashkoko, is so much attached to the rock that he never once
saw it on the ground, or from among the large stones in the
mouth of caves where it constantly resides. It is a native of
Judea, Palestine, and Arabia. Though it resides among the
rocks, yet its feet are too fleshy and tender to dig holes: there-
fore, it builds houses among the very hardest rocks, more in-
accessible than the burrows of Rabbits, and very sagaciously
constructed. Moreover, it chews Ше cud, as particularised by
` Moses, which is not the case with the Rabbit.

It is probable that during the time of Cesar, and while
he was in Gaul, the “country of cocks,” that the Rabbit was
, introduced into England.

That it was so introduced seems sustained by the fact that its
most ancient British name, Cwningen, is evidently derived from
the Latin. Rabbits rapidly spread throughout our islands, for

NAME OF RABBIT. 5

their great fecundity is not diminished even in the colder
climate, Scotland. This fecundity there obtained for them our
now common name of Rabbit, for in Gaelic, Rabaid is a Rabbit ;
plural Rabaidean, Rabbits ; cuilean Rabaid, a young Rabbit ;
and Rabaid seems to be derived from rabach, plentiful, fruitful.
(Armstrong's Gaelic Dict.) +

This name soon came into general use in England. It is true
that in the translation of the Bible as late as the reign of
James I., the word coney, probably as being more English, was
employed by the translators, but at a far earlier period the
name of Rabbit was employed.

Thus in the “Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York”
(p. 18), under the date of May 24th, 1502, is entered the pay-
ment of two shillings “to а servaunt of the Abbase of Syon in
reward for bringing a present of Rabettes and Quayles to the
Quene at Richemount.”

At first, of course, only the grey wild Rabbit would be known,
and for their protection a peculiar warren, called a coningry,
was established. This, however, was not until the Norman
period of our history, and about the same time and with similar
intentions as they were established in France. Weare told that
there it was under the reigns of Philip Augustus and Louis VIII.,
at the beginning of the thirteenth century, that the French nobles
began to people with wild Rabbits some countries which they
called *vearennes," thence * garennes," in English * warrens.”
The name of *varennes" remained to several bourgs, villages,
or countries, because they were built in a place peopled with
wild Rabbits. (Clichy-la-Garenne, now in Paris, was the
favourite hunting-place of Henry IV.)

The design of the French nobles by introducing Rabbits to
their grounds, was to multiply game, and increase the pleasures
ofthe chase and the table.

Tt is well known that at these early periods the lords were
warriors and hunters. They took no interest in agriculture,
industry, or commerce. The chase entertained the warlike spirit,

e m m

6 RABBIT WARRENS ESTABLISHED.

and inured them to fatigue. They did not know, or did not care,
what ravages the Rabbits made in the harvests of their serfs,
the cultivators of the soil,

. The Rabbit warren, as we have already noted, was called in
England a coningry. Thus in astatute passed in the year 1890
(38 Rich. П. c. 18) occurs this sentence—'* Vont chaceants es
parkes, garennes, et conyngers des seigneurs et autres ;” or, in
English, “ They hunt in parks, warrens, and conyngries of lords
and others.” А warren, in those days, meant a place belonging to
some one privileged to keep in it all fowls and beasts of warren
—namely, Partridges, Pheasants, Hares, and Rabbits (Blount’s
Glossary) ; but a coningry was a place where Rabbits only were
preserved.

Rabbits, like some other animals, are liable to produce та-
rieties, and this not only in the colour, but in the length and
form of the hair. Black individuals occur in our warrens. In
Syria we read of a wild sort with thickly tufted hair. The
Angora Rabbit has very long fur. A breed with similarly
lengthy coat formerly existed in the Isle of May, at the mouth of
the Frith of Forth (Naturalists Library); and Sunk Island,
in the Humber, was once famous for a mouse-coloured kind.
They were extirpated on account of the injury they did to the
banks by burrowing. (Phil. Trans., No. 361.)

When variations such as we have particularised were first
noticed, it is probable that they were caught and bred from
separately, and that thence arose the breeds of domestic Rabbits
. which we now foster. What little we know about these will be
stated when we consider each breed separately.

How long it is since these domestic kinds were first cultivated
we know not; for Tusser, the first of our writers who mentions
them, says no more than this, when writing the abstract of
“ January's Husbandry,” in 1580 :一

в Let doe go to buck,
Wish coney good luck.

Half a century later, however, in the year 1631, we find

RABBITS IN ENGLAND. ሃ

Gervase Markham writes as follows in his “Way to Get
Wealth :一

“Тһе boxes, in which you shall keepe your tame Conies, would
be made of thin Wainscot-boards, some two foot square, and
one foot high; and that square must be divided into two roomes,
a greater roome with open windowes of wyre, thorow which the
Conie may feed ; and a lesser roome without light in which the
Conie may lodge and kindle, and before them both a Trough,
in which you may put meat, and other necessaries for the Conie ;
and thus you may make boxe upon. boxe in divers stories, Кеер-
ing your Buckes by themselves, and your Does by themselves,
except 16 be such Does as have not bred, and then you may let à
Bucke lodge with them: also when your Doe hath kindled one
nest,and then kindleth another, you shall take the first from
her, and put them together in a severall boxe, amongst Rabbets
of their owne age ;, provided, that the Doxe be not pestred, but
that they may have ease and liberty.

« Now for the choice of these tame rich Conies, you shall not
as in other Cattell, looke to their shape, but to their richnesse,
onely elect your Buckes the largest, and goodliest Conies you
can get: and for the richnesse of the skin, that is accounted the
richest, which hath the equallest mixture of blacke and white
haire together, yet the blacke rather shadowing the white, than
the white any thing at all over-mastring the blacke, for a blacke
skin, with a few silver haires, is much better than a white skin,
with a few blacke haires: but as Т said before, to have them
equally, or indifferently mix’d, is the best above all other: the
Furre would be thicke, deepe, smooth, and shining, and a blacke
coat without silver haires, though it be not reckoned a rich coat,
yet it is to be preferred before a white, a pyde, a yellow, a dun,
or 6 gray.

« Now for the profit of these rich Conies, (for unlesse they did
farre away, and by many degrees exceed the profit of all other
Conies, they were not worthy the charge which must be be-
stowed upon them) it is this: First, every one of the rich Conies

8 EARLY WRITERS ON RABBITS.

which are killed in season; as from Martilmas untill afte
Candlemas, is worth any five other Conies, for they are of body
much fatter and larger, and when another skin is worth two
pence or three pence at the most, they are worth two shillings,
or two shillings and sixe pence: Againe, they increase oftener,
and bring forth more Rabbets at one kindling than any wilde
Conie doth; they are ever ready at hand for the dish, Winter
and Summer without charge of Nets, Ferrets, or other Engines,
and give their bodies gratis, for their skins will ever pay their
Masters charge with a most large interest.

« Now for the feeding and preservation of these rich Conies, it
is nothing so costly or troublesome as many have imagined, and
as some (ignorant in the skill of keeping them) have made the
world thinke : for the best food you can feed a Cony with, is the
sweetest, shortest, softest, and best Hay you can get, of which
one load will serve two hundred couples a yeere, and out of the
stocke of two hundred, you may spend in your house two hundred,
and sel in the Market two hundred more, yet maintaine the
stocke good, and answer every ordinary casualty. This Hay in
little cloven sticks, the Rabbits might with ease reach it, and pull
it out of the same, yet so, as they may not scatter nor waste any.
In the troughes under their boxes, you shall put sweet Oates,
and their water, and this should be the ordmary and constant food
wherewith you should feed your Conies, for all other should be
used but physically, as for the preservation of their healths: as
thus, you shall twice or thrice in a fortnight, for the cooling of
their bodies, give them Greenes; as Mallowes, Olaver grasse ,
Sower-docks, blades of greene Corne, Cabbage, or Colewort-leaves,
and such like, all which cooleth and nourisheth exceedingly :
some use to give them sometimes sweet Graines, but that must
be used very seldome, for nothing sooner rotteth a Cony.

“You must also have great care, that when you cut any grasse
for them, or other weeds, that there grow no yong Hemlocke
among it, for though they will eate it with all greedinesse, yet it
is a present poison, and kills suddenly: you must also have an

DISTINCTION BETWEEN THE HARE AND RABBIT. 9

especiall care every day to make their boxes sweet and cleane,
for the strong savour of their odour and urine 18 80 violent, that
it will both annoy themselves, and those which shall be frequent
amongst them.

“ Now for the infirmities which are incident unto them, they
are but two: the first is rottennesse, which commeth by giving
them too much greene meat, or gathering their greenes, and
giving it them with the dew on; therefore let them have it Би.
seldome, and then the drinesse of the Hay will ever drinke up
the moisture, knit them, and keepe them sound without danger.

* The next is а certaine rage ог madnesse, ingendered by cor-
rupt blood, springing from the ranknesse of their keeping; and
you shall know it by their wallowing and tumbling with their
heeles upward, and leaping in their boxes. The cure is, to give
them Hare-thistle to eate, and it will heale them.”

The older naturalists were not very successful in demon-
strating the characteristics distinguishing the Rabbit from the
Hare. The differences in their size and colour are sufficient for
ordinary purposes, but are not such differences as to distinguish
species in zoological classification. Even as late as 1772, Daines
Barrington, in the “ Philosophical Transactions,” could offer no
better specific characteristics than such as depended upon the
relative lengths of the bones of the hind legs, and their difference
in length when the hind legs were compared with the fore legs.

More recently Cuvier offers these marks of distinction :—The
Rabbit is less than the Hare; ears rather shorter than the head ;
the tail less than the thigh ; coat yellowish-grey with some red ;
throat and belly whitish; ears grey without any black; brown
about the tail. (Regne Animal Mammifères, 255.)

Such are the scientific characteristics of the wild Rabbit; but
these do not apply to the domesticated varieties, for many of
them are as large as the largest Hare, and in colour so closely
resembling the latter animal, as to be exhibited as © Hare
Rabbits" | Whether they are hybrids is still a matter of doubt,
as it was as far back as the time of Buffon.

10 EARLY IMPROVEMENTS.

For all ordinary purposes the domestic Rabbit, of which alone
we have to treat, is distinguishable by its colours, texture of
fur, and size and position of its ears.

The first attempts to rear varieties and improve the qualities
of the Rabbit, are attributed, probably correctly, to the monastic
establishments of the Continent ; for the brethren, who had quite
enough of abstinence from flesh meats, adroitly arranged that
Rabbits, like game, should not be included among them, but be
allowably eaten on maigre days.

M. Mariot Didieux states that it was not until about 1830
that attention was paid in France to the extensive and profitable
breeding of Rabbits. It commenced near Paris, but the pro-
ceedings were kept secret, opposition was feared, and information
upon the subject was only obtained by stratagem. About ten
years subsequently Rabbit eulture made great progress both in
France and elsewhere. In Belgium and Holland there are
prudent, determined, calculating men, who try experiments
cautiously, and it is only when they are sure of success that they
walk bravely to the goal. Thus the Dutch and Belgians have
already produced Rabbits in sufficient numbers to sell as many
as “three hundred and fifty thousand” a-week in the Ostend
markets alone, to be forwarded and sold in the London markets.
Less than ten years ago this source of industry was unknown in
those countries. The amounts just cited are official returns of
the Custom-house statistics. They witness highly in favour of
the breeding of these little animals, and their selling price
increases instead of diminishing.

The breeding on all the Dutch and French coasts of the
channel is on a very extensive scale. The linen trade being
greatly depressed had left a great many hands unemployed in
1847. “Some bred milch goats, others bred Rabbits to sell or
live upon. We have visited farms in the Pas de Calais, says
M. Didieux, and always found Rabbit pie in use, both among
masters and men.

In the farms in the neighbourhood of Troyes there were

RABBIT-CULTURE IN FRANCE. Em

Rabbits bred which brought in annually from 1000 to 2000
francs (from £40 to £80 sterling). Yet this is only considered
a trifling trade, and is being extended every day. In the
markets of Troyes there are 150,000 francs worth of Rabbits
sold every year. In the suburbs of Chalons-sur-Marne Rabbits

are bred entirely for their fur with immense profits.

In 1849, the Countess d' Albertas established in her Chateau
near Gardane a perfect stud of Rabbits, that comprised 8
number of varieties of great beauty, either as meat or fur, as
silky fur of different shades and lengths. She realised great

profits and sold breeders to Spain and Italy. She thus procured .

labour for the inhabitants of her locality, and gave meat to the
poor. Moreover, she assured us that the manure she derived
from her warrens had largely rewarded her by its enrichment
of her lands. By judicious crossings she has produced half
breeds of magnificent beauty, some of which have measured
60 centimetres (about 80 inches) from the tips of the nose to the
end of the tail.

Monsieur 1” Abbé Fissiause, Chaplain of the Hospital at Mar-
seilles, breeds Rabbits to provide the poor with meat. The
skins alone pay his expenses.

In 1856 M. ie Comte d'Epresmeuil, Secretary of the Accli-
matation Society, visited an establishment for breeding Angora
Rabbits at St. Innocent—a small village about two miles from
Aix in Savoy, on the heights that overlook the lake of Boerget.
This establishment, says he, is interesting, because particularly
it procures work for women, children, and the poor in bad
weather. It is of the simplest kind, since it consists in breeding
Angora Rabbits of all colours—grey, white, black, brown, and
particoloured. They are kept in large rooms, and fed with bits
of all sorts of green stuffs. The fur is taken four times a-year,
carded, spun, and woven in the village by the inhabitants, who
live out of this simple industry, which it would be so easy to
propagate in France. Childrens’ dresses are sold at as much
as 30 francs each. This Angora warren was established about

12 BABBIT-CULTURE IN ENGLAND.

twenty years ago by M. Lard; it is now directed by his widow.
After having had the idea of repairing his broken fortune by
breeding Angora Rabbits, M. Lard had that of placing them
out to keep with the inhabitants of the village. He gave, and
his widow still continues to give, four pregnant Rabbits; and
they are paid for by returning half the young when three or
four months old.

These Rabbits are bred in troops in stables, granges, rooms,
lofts, and other places as extensive, They are fed in summer,
with a quantity of green plants, and in winter with dry leaves.
Their fur is not woven as the Count d’Epresmeuil states, but is
carded and spun by the ancient method, and knitted by the
women into childrens’ frocks, stockings, drawers, chest pieces,
gloves, and other warm articles of clothing. These are much
sought after by the English that frequent the baths of Aix;
and Madame Lard has never enough in her warehouse, although
the manufactory of St. Innocent furnishes more than £800
worth a-year.

Madame Lard buys the fur of the breeders at 60 centimes
(6d.), the 82 grammes, which makes about 19 francs 20 centimes
for one kilogramme (2 Ibs. weight). We forgot to inquire while
on the spot how much fur by weight one Angora Rabbit of
middle size would furnish in a year or four combings ; but if we
recollect rightly it is about 250 grammes, or half a pound, value
4 francs 50 centimes.

In England attention to the breeding of domestic Rabbits on
an extensive scale has never become general. We have noticed
what Gervase Markham said upon the subject; and in 1718
we learn from Mr. Bradley that a few persons cultivated Rabbits
largely. He had engraved a drawing of an artificial warren,
and of the proceedings of one of these patrons of the Rabbit he
states the following particulars :一

«Т shall take notice of something extraordinary relating to a
warren, as it was contriv’d and practis'd by the late Lady Belassis
at Kensington; her ladyship, among many other curiosities

ARTIFICIAL RABBIT WARRENS. 13

which: were cultivated in her gardens, and volaries, disposed one
part for the breeding and feeding of Rabbets, in such a manner,
as that, by a constant supply of nourishing food, she might
draw at any time of thé year 8 sufficient quantity to oblige her
friends, and serve her table; but to prevent the unsavoury taste
which generally attends the flesh of tame Rabbets, consulted
as much as possible the nature of the wild sort, how much the
open air was beneficial to them, for this end she wall’d in a
large square place, and paved it at the bottom, but in some
parts had large heaps of earth, ram'd hard, and turf'd, for them
' to burrow in; but this, which was her first attempt, fail’d, by
frequently falling in upon the Rabbets: This however gave her
no discouragement ; she had a terrass built with arches, and
fd with earth, leaving proper places for Ше Rabbets to go in
and out; but still there were many inconveniences, as the falling
in of the earth, and the males destroying the young ones, besides
the difficulty of taking them when they are wanted; but at
length concluded to build distinct cells for every female, so
order’d that they might hide themselves at pleasure, or take the
liberty of the enclos’d ground when they thought fit: these cells
were соте 4 with boards, lying penthouse-wise, made to open at
discretion, for the better catching the Rabbets, and to prevent
the destroying of the does that had young ones: Over the
entrance of every cell was a trap-door, either for keeping them
in or out; at the south end was a covered place where a couple
of buck Rabbets were chain'd for the service of the does, and,
according to the warreners rule, were enough for twenty-five
couple of females: In this place was their food, which was chiefly
the refuse of the garden, with some bran and oats, and large blocks
of chaulk stone, which they frequently eat to prevent the rot.
“The pavement or floor was lay’d slopewise for the better
carrying off the water, and conveniency of cleaning, which was
done very often, and contributed greatly to the good thriving of
the Rabbets.” (General Treatise on Husbandry, gc 1. 21.)
This example met with but few imitators; and it is only

14 THE FULL-LOP.

since the knowledge of the vast numbers of Rabbits which are
imported weekly from Ostend and elsewhere has become diffuse,
that attempts are making in many places to breed them in this
country very largely.

"

THE DOUBLE OR FULL-LOP.

THE Lop-eared Rabbits аге ‘the pets of the fancy, and in
breeding there are seven points to aim at.

186, Length of ear, measuring from the tip of one ear to the
tip of the other across the head. 2nd, width of ear. ard,
colour—blue and white, black and white, tortoiseshell, yellow
and white, and grey and white. Тһе self-colours are fawn,
sooty fawn, or Egyptian smuts, black, grey, and white with pink
eyes. 4th, the position of the ears. 5th, size of the eye
and the larger this is the better. 6th, the cari iage of “body.
7th, the size.

Allthese properties are very fairly exhibited in the print '
which is a drawing ofa black and white doe with the butterfly
smut well marked. Нег ears are 211 inches, and considered а
first-class specimen. The longest-eared Rabbit bred is stated
to have had ears 23 inches long, but there is some doubt about

ს (it. I think 22} inches fairly measured is Ше longest ear yet
| obtained, and the breadth 58 inches.

The most fashionable colours are the black and white, blue
and white, and tortoiseshell. Good yellow and whites are much
admired, but are rather scarcer than the other.

The required carriage of the ears is well shown in the print,
and the requisite points are these :—Both ears should fall equally,
and as near to the inner corner of the eye as possible. The
round or convex surface of the ear should be outwards, and the
concave inside surface nearly concealed, and lying close to the
face. The ear should he of a whole colour the same as the rest
of the prevailing colour. It should be thick and strong, though

“ጳሷዐዌገ“ሟ፲በ፳ хо ятяпоа

ER
> NS

Қ

SS

აა

16 THE FULL-LOP.

round and narrow at its root, rapidly becoming broad, and
should continue broad to the tip and not angular. The broader
and rounder you can get the extremity the better. 5

The carriage of a Rabbit should be as follows :一 Low at the
shoulder, high at the rump, head resting on the dewlap when
sitting, which is a double fold of skin filled with fat, and covered
with soft white fur, which is seen under the chin, and begins to
make its appearance when eight or nine months old.

The proper marking of a Fancy or Lop-eared Rabbit should
be as follows :—The nose should be marked at each side with
some dark colour, having à dark-coloured mark running up the
face 80 as to meet the marks before mentioned, and with them

- forming what is termed “ the butterfly smut,” which is so called
from its resemblance to a butterfly with its wings extended.
The eyes are surrounded with colouring which joins the ears.
The chain is a line of spots at each side of the shoulder running
from the ears to the saddle, which is a large patch of colour, and
should be large and unbroken by any other colour—that is, if it
bea black and white, the saddle should be black with as few
white hairs as possible, and the same with all other colours.
Тһе saddle should be free from any but the one prevailing, and
when so marked they are considered by the fancier perfect in
colour. '

То be good specimens they should not be less than 18 inches ;

but 20 inches and 21 inches are considered good lengths.

In breeding Lop-eared Rabbits length of ear is the main
object, but at the same time the other points mentioned must
not be lost sight of.

/ М. Didieux states that this breed has been obtained by
С Rabbits imported from China, and crossed with breeds natives
| of France, and called “Fancy.” Fancy, he observes, does not
\ look at prices, and he states that a pair have been sold at 500f.
to 600f. (£20 to £25 sterling). 31. Gerard also states he has
heard of £20 being paid for a single fancy or Lop-eared female
Rabbit. These are exorbitant prices, but well-formed long-eared

THE FULL-LOP. 17

Rabbits will bring sufficient to pay for the trouble and pains
bestowed in breeding them. ah ics
То breed long-eared Rabbits you must first get your stock of
6 good strain; and, secondly, you must have a warm place for
their reception. Length of ear is only obtained by increased
warmth, high feeding, and judicious management. The extreme
lengths obtained by fanciers are produced entirely by artificial
means. When the Rabbit is about three months old, it is taken
in the lap of the operator who sits before a fire, towards which
the Rabbit’s head is directed, and, with his thumb and forefinger,
he gently works at the root of the ear till it is fully developed.
In this way each ear is increased an inch or more in length.
These, like other animals, soon degenerate, and require a cross
of fresh blood frequently, which may be accomplished in the
cheapest manner by getting the use of a good buck from some
well-known stock, or by exchanging or buying from time to time.
In breeding long-eared Rabbits, you must endeavour to obtain
. quality, and not be too covetous of quantity. You cannot expect
to have fine young ones if your doe is allowed to bring up more
than three or four. Some does will not bring up more than two
well: therefore, it is necessary to have common ог Dutch Rabbits
for nurses, they being much better than the more highly bred.
The best plan is to have your nurse-does to kindle about the
same time as your fancy breeders; and about two days after
your doe has kindled, take the doe out of the hutch and look
over your young ones, taking notice of those that appear to
have the longest ears and are the best marked, which are easily to
be seen even at that early age. Ifit is the doe’s first litter, and
she has more than two, take the surplus number away, and if
they are promising, place three or four with your nurse-does—
not more than four. If you notice any of the young ones
spotted, it is better to destroy them at once. If you find your
young doe prove 8 good mother you may allow her to bring
up three or four young ones at her next litter, but never more,
if £ne ones are desired. Some does will not notice their young,
в2

18 THE FULL-LOP.

and these are often the breeders of the longest-eared Rabbits :
therefore, you must endeavour to have your nurse-does ready
to receive them.

When the young ones are about a month old they will begin
to show their good points, and from this age till about eight or
ten weeks, make great progress in the growth of ear; but if you
find there is not much to be expected from them in that respect,
it is better to wean them at seven or eight weeks old, sooner
than lose more time with your doe; but if, on the contrary, `
they are promising, leave them with the doe till twelve weeks
old. Some does will not suckle their young so long, but drive
them about the hutch. When such is the case it is better to
put the doe to the buck, and let the young ones remain a week
longer if it has quieted her; but, if not, remove them.

ዲዩ this age many of them will require а eap on the ears to
get them in the required form. When capped they must be
put in separate hutches, otherwise they will knaw the caps off
each other. They will not require the cap on longer than a
week or ten days, and it should be put on directly they are
weaned. The ears seldom grow after four or five months old.

In breeding for length of ear it is not necessary that both
parents should have ears of great length, provided they are of
good blood. А nineteen-inch or twenty-inch-eared doe will
prove the best breeder; the longer-eared ones are often too highly
bred or forced іп their growth to be of much value as breeders,
often turning out barren or bad mothers. But the buck should
be as long-eared as you can obtain, provided he is a good stock-
getter. Very long-eared bucks will also prove barren sometimes.

In breeding for colour it is a bad plan to breed from two
broken colours; it is better that one should be a self-colour,
and the fancier should also know how his does are bred as to
colour—that is, the colour of their parents, as they will often
throw back. To get heavily-marked black and whites, a black
is а good colour to breed from; for tortoiseshell, a sooty fawn ;
for yellow and white, a fawn; and let the other be of the colour

THE OAR-LOP—THE HORN-LOP. 19

desired. It is impossible to breed true to colour, but by judi-
cious crossing a great deal may be done towards its

The fancier in selecting his breeding stock should be particular
in getting them free from defects, good carriage, legs straight,
eyes large and prominent, and in colour heavily marked, and
largesize. These are the main points to be considered.

THE OAR-LOP.

Тне Oar-lop, so called from the ears in this position resem-
bling the two oars of a boat resting in the rowlocks in the hands
ofa waterman. This is particularly admired by some fanciers, but
is as strongly condemned by others. It bears a more close resem-
blance to the perfect lop than any other variety of this breed.

Many Rabbits of the best blood will carry: their ears in this
position, but are unfit for exhibition, unless to compete for
weight, in which class the ears are not considered. At any rate,
the ears being thus carried should not be a reason for rejecting
from the breeding stock Rabbits well formed and fine in every
other respect, as they are as likely to produce valuable stock as
their more perfect relations.

It is seldom, if ever, that a litter of young Rabbits is produced
in which every specimen is perfect. Some will be found defective
in length of ear, carriage of ear, or colour, although the parents
be ot the best blood.

It may be, however, that this peculiarity is the result of
a cross with the common Rabbit, though, perhaps, at some
distant period. Ifthis be the case, it is better to fatten such
Rabbits for the table, and introduce animals of a კაბის strain as
a fresh and improving cross.

THE HORN-LOP.

Tur Lop-eared Rabbit derives its name from the position in

ራዘም ራራ
ае

“аот NAOH

"дот-ауо

22 THE HORN-LOP—THE HALF-LOP.

which the ears are carried, drooping forward and a little down-
wards over the eyes, resembling the horns of a cow.

This Rabbit, like the Oar-lop, may be produced by the most
highly-bred specimens of the Double-lop variety, and, by
judicious mating, may be the parent of first-class stock, if it is
not the result of a cross with the common Rabbit, which in this
variety is more often Ше case, and will show itself through
many generations.

The Horn-lop is not so often to be met with, but is not to
be more valued on that account ; for, on the other hand, it is
more ungainly in appearance, and the ears are more difficult to
get into a proper position—in fact, it is impossible to make
perfect lops of Horn-lops either by capping or stitching.

Stitching is sometimes practised by fanciers—that is, the ear
is placed in the required position and stitched to the side of the
face and allowed to remain so for a week, when the stitch is
drawn; but the cap is much the best.

In colour, form, and size, the Horn-lop resembles the other
varieties of the Lop-eared Rabbit.

THE HALF-LOP.

THE last variety of the Lop-eared Rabbit, like the other
varieties, derives its name from the carriage of its ears.

The Half-lop variety may be divided into two classes, and, at
least, with some benefit to the young fancier; inasmuch as one
variety almost invariably bespeaks impurity of blood, while in
the other variety we may find numbers of the highest-bred
animals descended from parents of the purest blood and great
beauty. It is very difficult to breed a litter of young Rabbits

| from the most perfect specimens without опе or two ዐየ them
| being of the last-mentioned variety of the Half-lop—at any rate,
| for some time or until the offending ear be brought to its more.
| proper position-by the use of the cap or stitch.

In the first class the Rabbit holds one ear erect, while in

`дот-дтүн

24 THE ANGORA.

the other both fall over one side: In the former case the
ear will generally be found deficient in length; while in the
latter they will often turn out the longest-eared and best-
lopped in the litter. '

THE ANGORA.

Tuts finê variety, of which we have before spoken, 18.8 native
of Asia, and the city of Angora gave it its name. It is worthy
of remark that several races of animals that are to be met with
in that country, the suburbs of Broussa and the plains of ancient
Troy, have long silky fur, such as the Angora cat and Angora
goats. :

The true Angora Rabbit is not a large animal, but only of
medium size, and has prick ears. Those large varieties with lop
ears that are met with in some English collections are the result
of a cross with the large English Lop-eared Rabbit. It differs
also from the common, not only in the fineness of its fur, its
skin and its habits, but also in its flesh, which is not so tender
as that of many other Rabbits, and, consequently, not so often
used for the table. Its fur varies in colour. The white is the
most common, yet not the less valuable ; then come the grey,
slate, or blue, black-and-white, and the Silver Grey. The fawn-
and-white is rare. 1

Their skins are much sought after by furriers, and when in
quantity and good condition realise high prices ; and it is some-
what surprising to.see how little this interesting kind has been
encouraged and cultivated in this country.

This species offers notable differences from the other com-
| mon kinds. Thus, if the male were to be separated from his
| female and family, he would grow thin, and even die of grief.
| Не is careful of thelittle ones, and he can be left without danger
1 to live in company with them. The Angora is endowed in an
extraordinary degree with the love of society. The young are
never ill-treated by the old, and the young have а great respect

ج С‏ یي

‘FHODNY

22

22

26 THE ANGORA— THE SILVER-GREY, OR RICHE.

for the aged; and the grandfather exercises patriarchal authority
over his sons, grandsons, and great grandsons.

It must be particularly remembered that this race is bred.
for its long silky fur, that the old furnish it more: abundantly
than the young, and that their skin as fur is more valued.
In France their silky fur is combed every second month, or every
third atleast: and as this operation makes them chilly, they above
all other races should have warm lodgings, with bedding more
abundant and clean to shelter them.

From the social character of these Rabbits the breeder will,
of.course, draw this inference—that they can be bred in large
numbers together, as it is done in the village of St. Innocent,
in Savoy, the account of which, at page 11, we have already
given.

THE SILVER GREY, ов RICHE.

Tuts is also known by the name of Chinchilla Silver Grey,
is so called from the skin resembling that animal, and for
which this Rabbit’s skin is sold as a substitute. The name
Chinchilla also serves to show the distinction between this
variety and the Wild Silver Grey or Silver Sprig. It is in
general more developed in form than either the wild or domestic
. Rabbit. Its fur is dark, and is in part of a silvery grey and part
| slate colour, approaching more or less to a blackish-brown. The
፡ hairs of the fur that are short and soft are of a mouse colour, or
pale slate, or bluish; some, the long, firm hairs, are blackish, or
a dark slate, and the other long hairs are white, so that the
| mixture of white, slate, and black varies on different parts of
the body. The head and ears are nearly all black with a few
white hairs, These white hairs are more numerous on the neck,
shoulders, and back; but on all the lower parts, such as the
chest or belly, the number of white hairs is greater than those
of a blue or black colour.

The young of the Chinchilla or Silver Grey Rabbits when

"анотч чо 29350 HHA TIS

28 THE SILVER-GREY, OR RICHE.,

kindled are quite black, and continue of this colour till they are.
from two months to nine weeks old, when a mixture of white
hairs begins to show itself about the neck and across the loins
These hairs gradually increase until the animals аге four or six
months old, and then they assume the true Chinchilla or Silver
Grey character. à

This Rabbit is bred for its flesh, and still more for its fur, but
unfortunately it degenerates in cold climates. There its fur
becomes of an iron grey colour instead of remaining silvery, and
its skin is reduced in value to only 5d. instead of from 1s. 8d-
to 2s. 6d.

M. Gerard states that it isin Siam, a kingdom of Indo-China,
that this race is found in all its purity. It is bred there chiefly
for its fur, which is much valued by the northern inhabitants.
Its strong, robust constitution renders the breeding of it easy,
and it there prospers without degenerating. It is tended by the
Siamese about the same as a tame Rabbit.

In climates where the temperature alters its qualities, it
requires particular care, if you wish to profit by its skin.
Warmth must be secured to it, which the winter denies it. The
uniform temperature of burrows that suit the wild Rabbit, is
equally suitable to tame Rabbits. To procure for them this
temperature one should make round their burrows a terrace of
sandy earth of about a yard or a yard and a half high, retained
from sliding down by a wall perforated with holes on a level
with the ground. The Rabbits establish themselves in the bank
through the holes, and yemain there in all seasons. In winter
they only come out to feed. The darker and warmer the burrows,
the finer, more silky, longer, and more lustrous will be the fur.

Still, there will be sometimes among them a few females
whose fur will be spotted with white. The fur of the males is
generally of a finer quality. To obtain from this species a finer
fur, castration of the males is in use, which operation should be
performed when the animals are about three months old. It not
only improves their fur, but increases their size, and renders a

ክክ TET
Se ÓÀ

елвяктно
=

БҮР? ДЕ) EN DA

ይው...

E. اک‎

80 THE CHINESE,

quarrelsome animal quite docile, so that these emasculated
animals can be kept together in large quantities.

The darker shades are the most prized by the furriers at the
present time, and with which they make muffs more’ par-
ticularly; but much depends upon fashion, with which the
warrener must not be influenced, but must endeavour to have
his stock of a medium colour, neither very light nor very

' dark.

i
i
1

In consequence of the increased demand for the skins of this
species, severalnew warrens have been formed in the south of
France, and these Rabbits are in great demand on the Continent
at the present time.

THE CHINESE.

Tus very handsome and interesting species is also known
under the names of Polish Rabbit, Russian Warren Rabbit, and
more generally as the Himalayan; but how they derive this
name І am at а loss to know, although they are spoken of by Mr.

, Woolf in the “ Proceedings of the Zoological Society” as the
| Himalayan; also in the Zoological Gardens they are labelled
| Himalayan or Black-nosed Rabbit.

M. Didieux speaks of them as natives of China, carried into

Russia by the nobles to augment the number of fur animals
1 which constitute the chief revenue of many of theirlands. From

Russia this variety passed into Poland, and from thence into
Germany, from whence it was imported into France.

They have red eyes, like the Angora Rabbits. ‘Their fur is
whiter, finer, and more lustrous than the common white Rabbit ;
and the extremities—that is, the nose, ears, feet, and tail are black
ог a rich brown; the darker this colouring is the more perfect

` they are considered, but they do not arrive at this perfection.

till about six months old. When young the extremities are of a
light mouse colour.
This race is very hardy, and often used to people warrens and

THE ANDALUSIAN. 21

open burrows. 1618 bred principally for its fur, which is very
valuable, and is sold from 15. 6d. each to 2s. 6d. It is the best
imitation of ermine, for which the Russian nobles often sold 15,
It is now called “ mock ermine.”

This Rabbit is now very largely cultivated on the Continent.
It is useful and interesting for the amateur to breed, being very
pretty, hardy, and prolific, the skins valuable, and the body
large enough to be useful for the table,

THE ANDALUSIAN.

Tuts, the largest variety known, is a native of Spain. It is
bred in Paris under the name of “Ram Rabbit," because its
head is large, and its forehead round, its ears large and hanging
like those of the Half-lop; its throat also is large and forms a
dewlap. Its fur is of a russet grey colour, and is smooth and

lustrous when it is well cared for and in good health; but when
neglected or sickly, it becomes curly and like wool.

When careis taken with this Rabbit it will attain an enormous
weight, even so much as from 16 Ibs. to 20 lbs., and that it is
the most robust race known.

The breeding of this Rabbit is receiving much attention in
Paris and its suburbs, and the finest specimens fetch enormous `
prices. M. Millet states that he has seen 180 francs paid for a
single female Ram Rabbit, and that M. Gerard, his coadjutor,
paid not long ago 160 francs for a pair. Those who have this
breed are so tenacious of keeping it to themselves, that it is
extremely difficult to procure fine specimens without paying
very high prices.

The breeding of this Rabbit is deserving of special attention,
it being a wonderful producer of flesh, rendering it the most pro-
fitable species that can be bred for food. At eight or ten weeks
old it ought to weigh as much аз the common tame Rabbit at
eight or nine months, thereby saving the expense of six months’

с

52 THE BELGIAN HARE-COLOURED—THE DUTCH.

keep, and the time and trouble in tending it; besides, the flesh
is more tender, juicy, and delicate in appearance.

There is another large variety which is very similar in appear-
ance to the Andalusian, and known in Paris as Ше ROUENNAIS;
or BUIIDOG, because they have а square head like the dogs
whose name they bear. Their weight is often as much as 14 Ibs.
In colour they are usually a light fawn, but sometimes a light
grey. Their ears are long and upright, but are often Half-lop.
Many of these Rabbits are imported and sold here as Pata-
gonians. It not at all unlikely that this is а cross of the Pata-
gonian, although it differs in appearance.
| The real Patagonian Rabbit has remarkably short ears and a

large round head, which when young and seen at a distance,
gives it the appearance of a cat. ‘There are not many pure bred
ones in this country, which, considering their size, is to be
regretted.

THE BELGIAN HARE-COLOURED.

LARGE quantities of this Rabbit are imported, known and
sold as French Hare-rabbits; but they are not hybrids as
the name implies. They attain a large size, but are said not to
be so fruitful as many other varieties; their ears are large, the
head smaller than in either of the before-mentioned varieties, and
in colour they are very similar to а Hare.

THE DUTCH.

_ ‘Tuts pretty and useful variety is known in France under the
ነ name of Nicard. They are much liked in Old Provence, on
| account of their prolific and hardy nature, and are very largely
| bred there. i |

They are very useful as nurses to bring up Ше young ones of
fancy Rabbits, being such good milkers. It is astonishing to see

“HOLA

|
|

| &
i
ji
ae

34 THE DUTCH.

one of these little creatures bring up fire and six young ones
in better condition than would be effected by another doe four
times her size.

No breeder of fancy Rabbits should be without does of this
breed. ‘They are of all varieties of colour, both self and parti-
coloured ; many of them have a white collar round the neck,
as shown in the drawing. The chief point of excellence in these
little animals is diminutive size; and I have seen some extra-
ordinarily small specimens not weighing more than 1415. This
!- small size is obtained by breeding in and in. I cannot see the
utility of reducing the size, but such is the freak of fancy.

THE RABBIT-HOUSE.

Тир form of which varies according to circumstances and con-
venience. It is easy to judge that to breed Rabbits in this way
is more expensive than in the warren, because in that there is
neither trouble, embarrassment, nor hand labour, and one leaves
to the animals the care of propagation and feeding; instead of
which, Rabbits kept in hutches in a house take time and labour,
However, the profits that one gets indemnifies advantageously.
These little establishments are within reach of the greater number.
The home of the citizen or the habitation of the peasant is equally
propitious ; the rich ав well as the poor will find amusement and
augmentation of wealth, and private interest as well as public
demands that they should be more common than they are,
Whether you construct a regular abode for your Rabbits, or for
economy make use of an old outhouse or shed, the first condition
is that it be dry, airy, and exposed to the east or south; the
second, that the house be constructed so that one can keep it
very clean. As to the size, that will depend upon the convenience
which the situation offers, and upon the number of Rabbits the
breeder intends keeping. It would be inconvenient that too
many Rabbits should live in the same place no matter how vast,
because under many circumstances a great number of animals
vitiate the air, which would be dangerous for the establishment.
Let us suppose the spot chosen for the Rabbit-house is in a
poultry-yard or garden. Begin by digging out the foundation
about 5 inches or 6 inches, press in the earth and ram or tread
well down, so that it is smooth and even; then put planks about
8 inches or 10 inches high all round the interior of the foundation,
first deciding which way you intend to have the fall to carry off
the water and urine when washed down—either have a channel at

96 THE RABBIT-HOUSE.

the back, at one end, or in front, and you must regulate your
planks according. These are your guide in laying down the
cement floor even. Puta kind of cement of the consistence of
mortar, and spread it all over the place you have dug until it
rises as high as the planks.

(This cement should be made by mixing one part of lime,
three parts of clean gravel, and three parts of fine sand and
water, until the mixture is like fine mortar. It must be used as
800n 88 made while it is still boiling with the lime.)

It must be lightly trodden down when all is finished, so that
it be solid and firm everywhere, and the top well smoothed with
a piece of board used edgeways. The next day it will be as hard
asstone; andto giveita more even and smooth appearance, you
can give it a thin coat of Roman cement and fine sand, about
11 inch in thickness, and through this it will be impossible for
their urine to filter, which is essential for the health of these .
little animals. You can now build walls on this cement either
of bricks or stone, or, if for economy, you use boarding nailed
to upright posts, and in the spaces left it would be better to fill
these spaces with pieces of brick or tiles ; and to do this it would
be a good plan to nail up temporary boards to the post on the
inside, and fill up the space between the outside and inside boards
with small pieces of brick, tile, or rough stones, and pour down
the cement made with lime as before directed, with the exception
of being made thinner to allow it to flow more freely. In about
a day or two the inside temporary boards may be taken down,

and then give it a thih coat of Roman cement, which will pro-
duce a smooth surface like a wall, and may be limewashed. You
may carry this cement wall as high as you please, but it is not
necessary to carry it higher than 2 feet or 3 feet. The reason
I advise this із, that it is cheaper than brickwork, and it is
necessary to prevent the ingress of rats, weasles, and other
noxious animals, which, once located, would be difficult to get rid
of, and destroy all your ae and labours by destroying the
litters.

THE RABBIT-HOUSE. 37

In constructing the roof this will greatly depend upon cir-
cumstances—either a span roof, or if the house has a wall at the
back, then the roof may be a lean-to, and may be covered with
slates, tiles, or, what I have found the best, is a roof boarded
and then covered with asphalte, which must be well tarred and
sanded. It is economical, warm in winter, and cool in summer,
which we cannot say for the slates or tiles. The front or sides,
if it has two, and the upper panels of the doors, can either be
glazed windows or open spaces covered with wire netting to
prevent the entrance of cats, &c., and wooden shutters placed so
as to close in cold weather. If glazed windows, they must be
constructed to open, 85 nothing is more essential than a free
current of air, and, therefore, it is necessary to cover the outside
of the windows with wire netting, to avoid cats, as before men-
tioned, getting through when the windows are open. Аз to the
height of the house, you must be guided by your own judgment
and convenience, but be particular in constructing openings at
the top for ventilation, with flaps to close at pleasure.

If you would keep Rabbits in a place already built, the first
thing to do is to fill all the holes and crevices with pieces of
prick or tile, and with Roman cement stopping the whole
firmly, and then mixing one part of cement with two parts of
fine sand and water till it has gained the consistency of cream ;
spread it on the paved or boarded floor to about 15 inch thick.
This operation should be done quickly and dexterously, for the
cement dries quickly and becomes 8 solid stone—through this
vermin cannot penetrate. The sides of the building that have
been stopped and cleaned should be plastered or covered with
the same composition ; but it must be thicker than for the floor.
In a case where it might be found cheaper to use square tiles,
stones, or bricks for paving, it is necessary to see that all the
joints of the tiles or bricks be well filled with cement to avoid
the filtration of urine under the pavement, for it is a condition
of health necessary for the prosperity of the Rabbits, for other-
wise the earth would be impregnated with. urinous matters. A

68 HUTCHES.

fotid and mortal odour produced by the evaporation of septic
gases would always be spread in the house. Whatever might be
the cleanliness maintained above, it. would ever be the hotbed of
perpetual diseases, and would soon discourage the breeder by the
losses it would make him suffer. I have dwelt rather lengthily
on the subject of cement paving, but my experience dictates the
necessity for these precautions; and when breeders begin and
have no notion of the breeding of Rabbits, they soon find out by
dint of losing the necessity for these precautions.
In addition to the Rabbit-house one should have a compart-
ment separated ftom the other Rabbits, which we will call the
hospital, for when Rabbits are sick the air they expire is
breathed by others, and produces infection which might have
been avoided if the sick Rabbit had been removed. It may
happen that some may have 8 contagious disease, then all the
establishment will feel the effects of it, and in a few days may be
empty; and you would attribute to an epidemic, a disease that
might have been avoided if the Rabbits had been separated.

HUTCHES.

Тине hutches may be constructed either as fixtures or moye-
able. I would recommend moveable hutches constructed in
stacks of two, three, or four high. They may be constructed
single, but alike externally to form stacks when placed on each
other, which will give a uniform and neat appearance.

They may be made according to the taste and means of the
fancier, and arranged, as to height, according to the size of the
building. Each hutch should not be less than from 20 inches
to 24 inches from front to back, 3 feet 6 inches long, and
16 inches high inside.

The doe’s hutch must have a partition about 12 inches from

HUTCHES. 39

one end, and а hole must be cut at the extremity nearest the
front about 1} inch from the bottom, more than sufficiently
large for the Rabbit to pass through. The edges of the hole
should be bound with tin or zinc to prevent the Rabbits gnawing
them ; and if a small door is made to close the hole 16 will be as
well, as the Rabbit can be shut in on one side while the other
is being cleaned out. This partition should be moveable, as the
object of this is to form а snug corner in which thé doe may
make her nest, and when the young ones are three weeks or a
month old it can be withdrawn, and thus afford a greater space
for their accommodation and gambols.

ს AT
А, ጫቃ

ze

Аы ымы. Tage (А

=;

А |);

N
2250 а

ል. Perspective view of doe’s hutch. Е. Hay racks.

B. Ditto of buck’s hutch. Е. Urine conductors.
C. Sliding division to doe's hutch. С. Wire doors.

D. Door to nest-box. ና

40 HUTCHES.

The front of the doe’s hutch should be in two parts, one with
'& 01086 wooden door 12 incbes wide corresponding with the
division, and the other a wire-framed door as shown in the
woodcut; or, which I think is preferable, straight wires, as
ከ6 Rabbit is seen to more advantage through them. These
doors should be fixed on hinges or pivots, and fastened with
buttons, or any other fastening the fancier may think fit. ፲ከ6
brass window-sash fastener answers very well. 'There are many
other designs, more or less expensive, but the common button
answers every purpose. ፲ከ6 advantage of having the whole
front in doors is the facility for catehing the Rabbits, and also
for cleaning out the hutches.

The floors should be made of one-inch boarding well glued
together to prevent leakage, and with an inclination £o the back
of about 13 inch, from front to back, to allow of all moisture
being carried cff by a pipe grooved out at the back of the hutch, .
ав shown by F in the diagram ; or if not a pipe, the floor should
extend 14 inch beyond the back of the hutch to prevent the
urine running down the back.

The buck's hutch should be made without a partition, and
the whole front in one wire door. They need not be so long as
the በ06'8 hutch, 2 feet 6 inches to З feet is sufficiently long.
Each hutch may be fitted with a rack for hay, &е., as seen at Е
in the diagram.

The troughs may be constructed the whole length of the wire
door of the doe’s hutch, and fastened to it, or made to fix under
the door; but а very simple and good trough for single Rabbits
is an ordinary spittoon, which is wider at the bottom than at
the top, and the Rabbits cannot scratch out and waste their
food; but for a doe with young ones it would not answer.

48 to the materials for constructing hutches, yellow or spruce
deals are the best. The fronts can be made of the same material,
or if the fancier is desirous of something handsómer, then come
the mahogany fronts, tinned wire, ivory, or brass fastenings, &c.

М. Didieux, speaking of economical hutches, states as follows:

HUTCHES. 41

--“І managed by chance to obtain a sight of a large Rabbit
establishment near the Burrieró du Trone, in Paris. It is a
large court surrounded with walls, transformed into an open
warren. Each hutch is nothing else than an old barrel. There
were at least 350. One an old grocer’s cask, another a spirit
cask, and they had not cost on an average more than two francs
and а half each. These hutches were thua arranged: Suppose
an old barrel with its bung-hole and two heads, one of the
heads removed, and with it a floor made. This barrel is laid
down on one of its sides, the bung-hole being underneath.
The planks of the removed head are fixed at about a third of
the lower part, and about half way from the entry. А trough
made of wood is fastened to the sides of the barrel a few
inches above the floor. The door is formed of a wooden hoop,
and closed with bars of wood an inch apart. These bars
would be liable to be gnawed by the Rabbits, but they never
touch them if you take саге to rub them once or twice with -
the fresh bark of colocynth. The bitterness of the bark of
this fruit is offensive to the Rabbits. This door is fastened
to the bottom of the barrel with old leather hinges, and the
door is kept closed by means of 6 strap and buckle. A ring
nail serves to hang the rack inside the barrel.

“Thus arranged, the barrels are placed on stocks to raise
them above the ground, are placed side by side, and facing the
east. They are furnished with a gutter to receive the urine
descending through the bung-holes. This gutter conveys the
liquids into а рай. You may place the barrels one over the
other, so that the bung-hole should be over the gutter between
the under-barrels. The empty space under the floor, and the
floor itself receive the dejections, which are removed by means
of a hook or hoe. The Rabbits have this floor for their feeding
and exercise ground, and the empty space at the back of the
barrel for sleep, and the does can litter there in safety.

« Ав these hutches are moveable they can be placed under
sheds or in stables during the winter.”

49 RABBIT COURTS.

From the above description you will observe that it is not
absolutely necessary to incur a great expense in constructing
hutches, but at the same time I would always advise having
them properly made. The first expense is the least, and the
health of the Rabbits greatly depends on haying a comfortable
and clean abode.

RABBIT COURTS.

RABBIT courts are enclosures or paved yards in which Rabbits
may be kept in a semi-wild state. They are of easy construction,
and there are many places that could with little expense be con-
verted to the purpose.

A court-yard paved and bounded by buildings, either houses,
stables or sheds, and if these are on two sides so much the better,
leaving the ends or other sides open for the free admission of
air and sunshine; but these ends should be enclosed with wall
of not less than 5 feet high, and if anything more is required to
keep out fowls, &c., a fence of wire netting placed on the top
will answer the purpose. In the corners or centre should be
placed mounds of earth, protected from the rain, in which the
Rabbits can burrow and find shelter.

፲ lately had the opportunity of viewing a large court in Sussex.
This court was made in an old melon ground about 200 feet
long by 120 feet wide, enclosed with eight-feet walls. Along the
south wall were arranged under a lean-to roof of asphalte about
fifty or sixty hutches, in which were kept the breeding Rabbits;
the court was only used for young ones, which were turned out
when about eight weeks old,and allowed to remain till four months
old, when the bucks were gelded or killed, except those kept for
breeding. This court was not paved, which was much against
it, ав. the land was very heavy, and when a continuance of rain

RABBIT COURTS. 43

fell it was in а bad state; but the proprietor was going to have

it well drained, which would lessen the evil. In the centre was

a large mound of earth thrown up to the height of 5 feet and -
several others along the wall; these were all protected from

rain by roofs of different descriptions, but the centre mound was

the favourite with the Rabbits. The man informed me that on

a fine morning the top would be erowded by the Rabbits per-

forming their toilettes.

In making a court the fancier should always endeavour to get
а south aspect, and the north and east bounded by buildings,
which will save the expense of making the necessary protection,
otherwise it would be necessary to have these sides boarded to
the height of 4 feet or 5 feet. "The south should be open trellis
or wire netting. The floor should be sloping; the floors com-
posed of cement and sand have been found to injure the Rabbits’
feet by being too rough, and bringing on what is termed sore
hocks, the same as with hutch Rabbits that have no litter under
their feet: therefore it has been found necessary to cover the
floor of the court with sand or gravel about 2 inches or 3 inches
thick. This, of course, will require removing either once or
twice a-year, according to ‘the number of Rabbits kept upon it.
Straw, sawdust, or dry leaves would have the same effect, and
would all be useful for manure when removed.

The mounds should be placed at Ше back with a leaning
roof to protect it from rain; and also the feeding-troughs should
be protected by some roofing, so that the Rabbits can stand and
feed without getting wet while taking their food. If the court
is connected with the shed in which the breeding Rabbits are
kept so much the better, as it will afford additional shelter in
wet weather to the Rabbits loose in the court.

I may add that the court is only suited to certain varieties,
such as Silver Greys, Himalayas, and all others, excepting the
long-eared and the Angoras, both these varieties require warmth,

Rabbits so kept are much more amusing than those hidden
in their hutches; and this exercise assists their development

44 FEEDING RABBITS.

considerably, and with young Rabbits reared in courts you will
. seldom find them attacked with pot-belly—one of the greatest
evils in rearing hutch Rabbits. I strongly recommend a court
to those whose premises, &c., would allow of the plan being
adopted.

FEEDING RABBITS.

THE success of breeding Rabbits on a large, or even on a small
scale, depends in a great measure on the care taken to keep them
healthy—a state indispensable to all animals reduced to a state
of domesticity. These cases are the more easily understood, as
this state of confinement completely annihilates many of the
instincts of self-preservation with which Nature has endowed
the animal.

Rabbits are herbivorous, and the plants, grains, and fruits
that may enter into the composition of Rabbits’ rations are as
numerous as they are varied. All kinds of vegetables—as carrots,
parsnips, beetroot, artichokes, cabbage, endive, celery, potatoes
boiled or roasted, lettuces when old and run to seed are best,
saintfoin, lucerne, lentils, vetches, pea and bean haulm stored
for winter, chicory, marsh mallows, sow or milk thistles, hare
parsley, and dandelion, wild or creeping thyme, pimpernel, ani-
seed, coriander, and pepperment when green, and fennel, con-
stitute a tonic and strengthening forage, which also please the
animals but must be given sparingly, being very exciting food.

All plants, &c., obtained by the weeding of gardens, omitting
the mustard plant and poppy. Among fruits desirable, are
apples, pears, acorns, beech nuts, «с. The leaves and cuttings
of all trees. All the above-mentioned vegetation may daily
contribute to the food for an animal that will take almost any
plant or vegetable if it is administered properly and seasoned
with drier food,

I

TIMES OF FEEDING— GIVING GREEN FOOD. 45

Of the dry substances which form the staple food for Rabbits,
oats and barley are the principal. Buckwheat bruised is much
used on the continent, but I have never tried it myself. All
kinds of meal will be found good for them—viz., barleymeal,
oatmeal, middlings, fine and coarse, pollard, and bran. But the
great object is to give them as much nutriment in as small a
quantity of food as possible: therefore, the finer qualities of
meal is the cheapest food, and must be mixed with water to a
stiff mash and given to them warm. Barleymeal, oatmeal, or
middlings, mixed with boiled potatoes is very nutritious and
fattening. Grey peas soaked in water till they sprout is one of
the most fattening of foods that can be given. One handful
a-day to a full-grown Rabbit is sufficient, and two meals of

other food will fatten a Rabbit in a very short time. Lin-

seed boiled very slowly for about two hours and mixed with
any kind of meal, is the best food to restore a lean or an
emaciated Rabbit to condition, and it also imparts a sleek
appearance to their coats.

TIMES OF FEEDING.

In the morning at daybreak, and from eleven in the morning
till one in the afternoon, and one hour before sunset, the Rabbit
leaves its burrow to seek its food.

The tame Rabbit although not born in the warren retains the
same instinct, and it is at the same hours that you see him
awake and looking about, almost asking for its food.

GIVING GREEN FOOD.

If dry forage is given them indiscriminately at stated times,
you must not do the same by green stuffs. They should never
be given when damp with dew or rain, because this wet food
tends to cause meteorisation or swelling of the belly, and almost
always causes diarrhoea, which makes them thin and more often

_–_უ__კაკკაუკაუაუპუბ

46 INCONVENIENCE oF CONTINUAL GREEN FOOD.

kills them. These diarrheas are Owing to the intestinal irri-
tations, which it is the greatest importance to prevent. During
long rains the plants should be gathered the day before they
are to be given them, and by exposing them to the air to facili-
tate the evaporation of the water. You contribute to this
evaporation by spreading the greens in thin layers, or placing
them on a hurdle. ፲፻ these means will not suffice, you should
mix with some straw which absorbs the damp. If you mix them
with hay, which ig still better, it produces the same effect, and
the mixture serves for rations, At Ше same time it is necessary
to avoid giving them greens that have been picked some days,
and through laying together become fermented, as they would
hurt the Rabbits seriously,

INCONVENIENCE OF CONTINUAL GREEN FOOD.

A too-watery green food given continually, and particularly
if the sorts are not varied, is attended by grave inconvenience 3
the belly of the Rabbit grows big, its stomach is unnaturally
enlarged, its flesh becomes soft, it becomes idle, lymphatic, and
is often attacked by the tape worm which is developed in strings
round the intestines. It has often 8 liquid goitre, and often
dropsy show themselves. Аз we have before said, the wild Rabbit
lives on green food and yet is vigorous; but we must remark,
that he has a choice of food, not merely watery green food, but
tonic herbs, and that by instinct it selects those plants that are
tonic and strengthening. It has, moreover, the Possibility of
exercise, which contributes to its Lealth. |

CHANGE OF FOOD.

Like all other animals, change of food is necessary—it excites
their appetites and assists digestion. This change is more
necessary in the sedentaries—that is to say, those shut up in
hutches, than those having the privilege of exercise,

CONDIMENTS—GENERAL RULE—FATTENING RABBITS. 47

CONDIMENTS.

The greater the impossibility to change the green food, the
greater the necessity for seasoning it. This may comprise green
plants—such as parsley, fennel, coriander, aniseed, peppermint,
bitter chicory, wild thyme, pimpernel, «с. "These plants may
be cultivated for this, and twice a-week these plants should be
mixed with other green food. Salt as a seasoning should be
mixed with meal once or twice a-week.

Some Rabbits eat faster and require more food than others of
the same size and age. Asa general rule it is sufficient to give
them just what they will eat at the meal, and it would be better
they left off hungry than they should leave their food and waste it.
It sometimes happens that Rabbits refuse food, and you find -
the portions that you last gave scarcely touched. The common
opinion is, that if a Rabbit breathes on his food he will not
touch it after; but this is an error, for if you take that away
and give fresh the result is the same. The true cause is a loss
of appetite caused by cold or a derangement of the digestive
organs. The quickest way to cure them is, to give a slice of
bread dipped in warm milk, not more than the bread will soak
up, and not too warm. This with a nice warm berth and a good
bedding of hay will restore the appetites of Rabbits to their
ordinary food.

GENERAL RULE.

Give. chiefly dry food, and always let there be a vessel of clean
fresh water, from which they can drink whenever they please.
This is contrary to the usual custom; but from experience we
can state that it is conducive to the health of Rabbits.

FATTENING RABBITS.

Many ways of fattening Rabbits have been recommended.

Nothing answers better than barleymeal, oatmeal, soaked grey
D

48 FATTENING RABBITS.

peas, boiled linseed mixed with meal; but these substances must
be varied. Oil-cake will fatten Rabbits to a great size, but the
difficulty is to get them to take it, which is only done by starving
them into it, and by giving very little at first, which should be
pounded and mixed with meal; the cake should be placed near
the fire, and, when warm, can be pounded easily. Many writers
have asserted that if you give green food while fattening Rabbits
it will defeat the object. I do not advise a large quantity of
green food, neither do I advise it to be of a too watery kind, as
cabbage, &c.; but a very little good aromatic food, as dandelion,
thistles, or any plant of the same family. When these plants
cannot be got, I would advise a little water given once a-day,
or to accelerate the process of fattening a little milk sweetened
with sugar. І was once shown а Rabbit of 14 Ibs. weight that
had been fattened solely on clover hay and milk sweetened with
sugar, as much as it liked to drink. I have also seen Rabbits
killed in first-class condition that had been bred, reared, and fed
in a strawyard and shared with the cattle, only having green
food, hay, straw, вс. The best age at which you сап take Rabbits
to fatten them is from four to six months; having reached that
age they fatten on little, while before they would not fatten,
having nothing but skin on their bones in consequence of their
growth, One should not wonder to see them get thin when
they are young; one should rather be uneasy if they grew too
fat, it being an unnatural state, and prognosticates 8 a small,
stunted Rabbit.

Rabbits should be kept at all times in clean airy habitations,
and you must pay attention to those you fatten. Although much
exercise is not good for them at this time, if they were placed
for a few hours a-day, in fine weather, on a piece of dry gravelly
ground, and given a little green food to eat, 15 would greatly
contribute to their health. In selecting your subjects for fatten-
ing, the young males should always be sacrificed before the
females, they become amorous sooner, and their flesh always

10868 some of its flavour.

MANAGEMENT.

MANAGEMENT.

CHOICE OF BREEDING тоск. The females should be physi
eally strong, the body long and well developed, the hind legs
large and well apart, teats apparent, even when not pregnant,
and filled with milk at the approach of birth. The doe should
not be allowed to breed at less than six months old, although
they may engender at five months; but it is better, if you wish
to preserve a fine race of Rabbits, to wait till they are eight or
nine months old, before you allow them to bear. If under six
months they would only produce weak and delicate young ones.
Indeed Nature, with all her efforts, could not suffice for the
development of the mother, and give the nutrition necessary for
the young at an earlier age.

As the choice of the female is important, that of the male is
not less so. The buck should possess the same physical propor-
tions as the female, with the addition of a larger head and body,
and should be at least eight or nine months old, and if well
taken care of, he will continue to produce fine vigorous young
ones till four or five years old.

The most gentle and tame females should be chosen, as the
turbulent often destroy their young; but the males should be
hardy, bold, and vigorous.

Әтачв or Нклттҥ.—Во males and females should be node-
rately fat, their fur sleek and shining, their eyes bright, and
their dung dry and hard. |

BREEDING IN-AND-IN.—It has been proved by numerous facts,
that multiplication by the son and mother, or between brothers
and sisters, is a powerful cause of the degeneracy of races as
much with regard to the fur of Rabbits, as their fecundity, vigour
and health. Indeed Rabbits of one uniform colour, that mul-
tiply in their own family, offer from the third generation, white

D2

50 MANAGEMENT.

spots on the fur, prejudicial to the value of it. Fecundity also
insensibly diminishes, and weak consumptive Rabbits are pro-
duced, subject to internal derangements, and seldom living over
the first moult, but usually dying off at from four to six weeks
old.

HARE 了 RABBITS, 一 Hew are ignorant of the unsuccessful
attempts of the many celebrated naturalists to obtain hybrids,
` by-the crossing of the Hare with the Rabbit. This want of
success appeared so conclusive, that all fresh attempts had been
given up. It is thought, by some persons of good authority,
that the wildness and cowardice natural to the Hare has been
· the only cause; indeed, if you bring up а male Hare in the
company of Rabbits, male and female, he usually remains timid
and wild, and in several establishments has been kept for years
without manifesting any desire of propagation. It seems that
this.is not the case by attempting to obtain hybrids between the
male Rabbit and female Hare, who.is not so wild and timid as
the male Hare.

This opinion, which is that of several French writers and is
mentioned by М, Didieux, has been put in practice with success
in the department of the Cher, at least we are assured so by M.
Goubault, Professor of the “Ecole Imperial Veterinaire d' Alfort.”
He says that he has seen in one single establishment, nearly
three hundred hybrids of this kind, that had the valuable faculty
of reproduction among each other, and that their flesh appeared
infinitely superior to that of the Rabbit.

The hybridising of Rabbits has been tried at the Zoological
Gardens in London, this last season without success; but the
superintendent informs me he has no doubt that he shall be able
to produce them in the coming spring.

GzsTATION.—Pregnanoy continues from thirty to thirty-one
days, and a memorandum should be made in the stud-book to
indicate the day of the doe’s fecundation, in order to separate
her from the young she is suckling at least a week before to
strengthen her, and clean the hutch out and prepare by giving

MANAGEMENT. 51

litter to make her bed for her new family. If she is suckling
and pregnant at the same time she must be fed with rich and
succulent food and occasionally a little salt be given to increase
her appetite; of food let her have ав much as she likes to eat.

Females that fill the double office of suckling and breeding at
the same time, are often so thirsty, that they devour one or two
of their young ones to allay thirst by sucking the blood. It is
then indispensable to give them at least twice a-day, a good
handful of green stuffs, and about half a quartern of water once
a-day. The captive Rabbit does not know how to be sober with
water, and suckling mothers must be rationed. With respect to
drinks, I have reared several litters of very fine strong Rabbits
in the winter when green food was scarce, by giving only milk
to the mothers, as much as they liked to take—in fact, they hada
trough affixed to the hutch, and which was filled each time they
were fed with other food.

SIMULATED GxsTATION.— Rabbits that have not become preg-
nant frequently offer the physiological phenomena of 6 real
gestation. They prepare their nest, their teats swell, and the
secretion of milk takes place. They have been known to adopt,
when the opportunity offered, strange young. Harvey, the im-
mortal discoverer of the circulation of the blood, says that
he has seen and observed this physiological phenomenon in
Rabbits. -

MISCARRIAQE.—Too much violent exercise, chiefly from fear,
causes often a sudden miscarriage. It is true that it is seldom
dangerous, and the Rabbit may again receive the male a few
days after. Violent claps of thunder are one cause of abortion.
Frozen green food, wet or too watery green food, is often a cause
that admits of prevention.

Detrvery.—When the Rabbit is strong and vigorous she is
delivered easily and without violent pain. "This phenomenon is
owing to her particular organisation. The successive births
sometimes last twenty-four hours. During parturition the
Rabbit loves quiet and весгеву, and itis for this reason thatit is

62 MANAGEMENT.

customary to cover the door of the hutch over with a cloth from
the twenty-eighth day of gestation. Rabbits frequently die
from a laborious birth, or from weakness, the result of leanness
or of bad food, and even from too watery green food given
during any length of time.

SUCKLING.—Four or five days before the birth, as I have
before said, you should renew the litter and leave the Rabbit
alone in her hutch to prepare her nest. Delivered, she closes
the opening of her nest and watches with solicitude by the side
of her new family. She suckles them several times a-day, but
chiefly at night. The Rabbit loves to be delivered in secret,
and she also likes to suckle her young in secret; if she is sur-
prised in this important function of maternity, she starts away
suddenly and drags with her several little ones out of the nest.
The mother does not replace them, and they perish with cold
unless the feeder does it for her.

WEANING.—At the age of five or six weeks the young should
be weaned. by removing them from the mother. The young are
much finer if left till seven or eight weeks old with their mother ;
but in that case you diminish the number of young, by allowing
the mother to bear less frequently. The weaned Rabbits should
be placed with others of the same age, if possible, in spacious,
clean, warm hutches, with plenty of broken straw for their bed.
Great cleanliness assists their development. They should have
tender, tonic, succulent food, a little barleymeal four times
a-day, and whatever they leave may be distributed to the older
and less dainty Rabbits.

GENERAL PRrNOrPLES.—1st. Clean all the hutches daily,
using sponge, broom, and rake when necessary. Do it as
quickly as possible without disturbing the does.

2nd. Give litter to the young Rabbits, but not to the does.
Change it every five days, and observe the same cleanliness in
the rooms as has been recommended for the hutches.

8rd. If any Rabbit needs particular care, owing to sickness
or accident, keep it-in an airy warm place reserved for that

DISEASES. 53

purpose, having a triangular-shaped rack for the forage. Other
food should be placed on pieces of earthenware round the
apartment.

4th. Each room in your establishment should contain a jar
of prepared charcoal, suspended in the air by means of a string
to the ceiling. The noxious odour from the Rabbits will thus
be avoided.

5th. The best way to improve the digestions and appetites of
Rabbits is to give them food in small quantities and кедеп
at fixed hours, during the day..

6th. Avoid noise and strangers in the establishment. Let
the Rabbits always be fed by the same person, whose presence
will then excite no fear.

"th. If an odour, however slight, appears in your rooms,
discover the cause at once and sprinkle there some charcoal and
a few drops of vinegar.

8th. Open the windows daily, more in hot weather than cold,
and not much in damp weather.

‚ 9th. The warmer Rabbits are, the better they thrive.

10th. “Тһе eye of the master fattens the steed.” This is a
common saying and equally true with Rabbits, so that I will
not warrant their succeeding under a different course,

DISEASES.

Att sorts of diseases are produced by keeping Rabbits in
places which are either too sm all for them, very cold and damp,
not properly ventilated, badly made for the escape of fetid
matter, or foul, as they always are unless cleaned out once in
twenty-four hours. Ophthalmia, fits, want of appetite, diarrhoea,
dropsy, and consumption are some of the evils thus caused.

If you find your Rabbits ill, be sure that one of the causes
spoken of in their food or lodging has made them 80. The

54 DISEASES.

diseases of Rabbits are serious, for, being endowed by nature
with robust and hardy constitutions, they are only attacked by
serious disorders.

The only remedies for the diseases of Rabbits, failing the
rectification of their food and lodging, are a very carefully
regulated diet, dry and varied food—hay, crusts of bread,
roasted barley, juniper berries—weak doses often repeated
during the day.

1. Movrtine.—Rabbits are born with fine, curly, woolly,
dull fur, darker than that they will have when older. About
the age of from thirty to forty days this fur falls off, and it is
replaced by a permanent fur that gives the foundation and the
particularities of its coat. This crisis of nature passes unper-
ceived if the Rabbits are kept warm, clean, and the mother has
been well fed to allow of her being a good nurse. Separated
from their mother they must have food composed of grains and
green plants. If moulting is not a disease it is, nevertheless, 8
crisis of nature which happens at teething, and which may give
rise to many symptoms and affections.

Convulsions occur when moulting does not take place at the
time prescribed by nature; the Rabbit becomes low without
appetite, and it is not rare to see it seized with convulsions,
which succeed each other by frequent fits, and which cause
Geath within the twenty-four hours.

Treatment. — The dissection of bodies shows discoloured
tissues—a red liquid in the intestines. The treatment consists
in keeping them warm with 15 grains of camphor a-day, and
as soon as they can eat give them watercresses and a little
boiled barley with a little salt. |

Paralysis almost always succeeds the preceding attack. It is
almost always limited to the hind-quarters. On opening the
dead bodies we find a serosity in the vertebral canal. If the
animal is of a valuable race you may try to rub the loins with a
little camphorated brandy, or even а small blister.

2. Dzorsy.—Result of damp, dark hutches, of a continuance

DISEASES. 55

of damp tender green food. The opening of dead bodies shows
а serosity in the cellular tissues, in the pericardium, and round
the intestines. This serosity in the throat gives it the appearance
of a goitre。 The tissues are soft and discoloured, the blood is
liquid and serous.

Treatment.—As soon 88 you perceive a soft tumour in the
neck that disappears and comes again, you should give them
some corn to eat, а pound of dry bran, a mixture of rosin in
powder. Juniper berries are to be given. Dry the leaves of
the tree and reduce them to powder to replace the berries.
This inexpensive treatment is used also as a preventive to these
diseases.

3. VERMINOUS AFFECTIONS are frequent in Rabbits that are
kept in damp dark hutches, those that are fed on too much
watery green food, and those that Це оп damp fermented litters-
from which hot vapours escape. These affections are often met
with in the wild Rabbit that frequents plains, and sometimes
on hares born in low lands. These affections might be desig-
nated by the name of leprosy, seeing that, as in the leprosy
among pigs, one finds round worms on opening the bodies.

These round worms are found outside the intestines, the
loins, the bladder, the heart, in small circles, sometimes few,
sometimes numerous, and composed of whitish round grains,
that are so many vesicles containing round small worms that
multiply very quickly in all the organs, and even in the mus-
cular layers. The flesh of the animal becomes вой. The use of
it is not dangerous, but it is insipid and not nourishing. ፲፻
much developed the Rabbits die of it.

These diseases appear hereditary, and owners should ን
the male or female breeders to make these complaints disappear
from the stock. Promiscuity of races and prolonging the mul-
tiplication of families too long is another cause to which may be
attributed the development of these diseases.

Treatment.—If the hutches are damp, they must be made
drier. Give more tonic and less watery food, season it with

56 DISEASES.

salt, employ condiments mixed with bran and composed of the
leaves of heather, juniper, sage, wormwood, thyme, green parsley,
&с., dried and powdered.

The Tapeworm or Tenia is met with but seldom, and it appears

now that it is no other than the leper or spherical hydatid

that is to be seen in the liver of sleep and other animals.
Recent experiments go to prove that portions of the Tenia
given to healthy animals cause the development of hydatids in
the brain and other parts of the body.

4. EAR. Gum.—This is a disease often found in Rabbits, and
consists in a sort of scab which is formed in the interior hollow
of the ear. Those affected by it eat just like the others, but do
not profit so well and eventually 016.

Lreatment.—Employ the following ointment :—Lard, 10
drachms; flowers of sulphur, 5 drachms; oil of juniper, 10
drops; a grain of corrosive sublimate in powder. Rub the
part affected once or twice with it. A very effectual remedy is
as follows :一 As soon as you discover it procure from a chemist
a little sulphate or acetate lead ointment, with which dress the
inside of the ear as low down as you can reach with a feather,
Examine them every day, and clean off with a piece of blunt
stick all scab and secretion as it becomes loosened, and by
careful attention you will soon overcome the disease.

5. OPHTHALMIA.—Young Rabbits bred іп hutches where the
air is renewed with difficulty are often affected with ophthalmia,
a disease of the eyes which principally affects the eyelids. The
eyes are closed, bleared, and the lids covered with little red
pimples, from which matter is discharged. These pimples often
extend all over the head, sometimes all over the neck and part of
the body. The principal cause of this disease is the ammoniacal
gas which escapes from their urine, if they are obliged to live in
an atmosphere tainted with it. Those that live in barrels or
boxes in which the air is not freely renewed, and where the
urine does not freely run off, are very subject to it.

Treatment.—We again repeat that it is better to prevent

DISEASES. 57

these diseases by the attention recommended in the chapter on
“Health.” Air must be given, the hutches cleaned, floors
washed with water in which sorrel has been boiled, to neu-
tralise in a chemical manner the gas which is the cause of the
infection. If the Rabbits affected are valuable, you can wash
the diseased parts with the following solution:— Water, one
quart; common salt, 15 drachms; dissolve, and add acetate
of lead liquid 53 drachms.

6. CoxsrIPATION.—Dry food, with privation of greens, water
to drink, and cold temperature sometimes occasion constipation
80 obstinate as to be accompanied by an irritation of the genito-
urinary organs.

Treatment.—A few greens, or, in fault of that, a little salt
and water, which they drink with avidity. You may dissolve
15 drachms of sulphate of soda to a quart of water, and give
them about 5 ounces twice a-day.

THE END,

Printed at the Horticultural Press, 17, Johnson's Court, Fleet Street,

INDEX

ANDALUSIAN, the, 91

Angora, the, 24

BELGIAN Hare-coloured, Ше, 32
Breeding in-and-in, 49
Breeding stock, choice of, 49

CHINESE, the, 80
Condiments, 47
Constipation, 57
Convulsions, 54

DELIVERY, 51

Diseases, 53

Double or Full-lop, the, 14
Dropsy, 54

Dutch, the, 32

FATTENING, 47
Feeding, 44

times of, 45
Food, change of, 46
Full-lop, the, 14

GESTATION, 50
simulated, 51
Green food, 45
` injurious effects of, 46

了 ALF-LOP, the, 22

Hare Rabbits, 50

Hare and Rabbit, difference be-
tween, 9

Health, signs of, 49

Himalayan, the, 30

Horn-lop, the, 19
Hutches, 38

MANAGEMENT, general principles of,
92

Miscarriage, 51
Moulting, 54

Oar-Lop, the, 19
Ophthalmia, 56

PARALYSIS, 54
Polish, the, 30

RABBIT courts, 42

Rabbit differs from Hare, 9
culture of in France, 10

in England, 12

Rabbits, early writers on, 7

Rabbit, history of, 1

Rabbit-house, the, 35

Riche, the, 26

Russian, the, 30

SILVER-GREY, the, 26
Suckling, 52

TAPEWORM, 56

VeRMINOUS affections, 55

WARRENS, artificial, 13
Warrens, early, 5
Weaning, 52

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