he eh eh Bs Ty o- ye —
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Teeet he he Fa ar a i Se escent Of ; Shasta
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iulatgr ol nese wile Wa alec | RN ee a
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NOTES
WEST INDIES.
VOL. I,
BN I th
ie)
mB cite it fine
Dean oe Ni ha
“yt k fe i
uf hae s! Pau |
“isaac pays ogi tetas Fre 4
1 fa aE ee NE
Recta
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Ml
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We hi oyake
N OT ES:
, ON THE
WEST ee
WRITTEN DURING THE
EXPEDITION UNDER THE COMMAND
OF THE LATE
GENERAL SIR RALPH ABERCROMBY :
INCLUDING OBSERVATIONS ON
THE ISLAND OF BARBADOES,
AND THE SETTLEMENTS CAPTURED BY THE BRITISH TROOPS, UPON
THE COAST OF GUIANA;
LIKEWISE REMARKS RELATING TO THE
(CREOLES AND SLAVES OF THE WESTERN-COLONIES, AND
' “THE ey OF re AMERICA:
WITH OCCASIONAL HINTS, REGARDING
The Sealoning, or Bellow se
OF HOT CLIMATES.
Br GEORGE PINCKARD, M. D.
OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE @F PHYSICIANS,
“BEPUTY INSPFCTOR-GENERAL OF HOSPITALS TO HIS MAJESTY’S FORCES
AND PHYSICIAN TO THE BLOOMSBURY DISPENSARY.
IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. 1.
It is a flrange thing that in fea-voyages, where there is mothing to be feene, but
fky and fea, men fhould make diaries ; but in land-trauaile, wherin fo much is
to bee obferued, for the moft part they omit it; as if chance were fitter to be re-
giftered than obferuation. Lorp VERULAMe
London :
PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST) REES, ANB ORMMAy
PATERNOSTER-ROW.,
1806.
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RAE = DEDICATION.
——_—_-—_----—-
(CB SRT AA
poo RIE NDS 12.
Loooxine round, as it is faid authors are
wont, for a great perfonage, to whofe name
I might dedicate my work, I have not found
it poflible to fix upon any one, to whom [
could with fo much propriety confign it, as
fies)... ,.. 21s Parungt! Accept, then,
Benign Power! Thine offspring: cherifh it,
- even as Thou haft begotten it: and caufe
Thy warmelt influence ever to animate the
heart of — |
Thy faithful and devoted Servant,
THE AUTHOR.
Great Ruffll Street, Bloomfury,
March 15, 1806.
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PE EP PoC hE,
From the entreaties of a Friend the following
<¢ Notes”? were written for his private eye :—from
the folicitations of other friends they are now
offered to the eyeof the Public. The former were
tender perfuafions, and, in obeying them, the
-author had much and fincere gratification: he
withes he could feel as well affured that he is pur-
fuing the path of wifdom, by yielding to the latter.
But he is too fenfible that what may be amufing,
or may, even, be deemed valuable, in the clofet of
friendfhip, may be very unfit to meet the lefs-pre-
judiced judgmen: of the world; and he is not
without many apprehenfions, left a flattering par-
tiality—a partiality. which often deals praife, where
no merit is due, fhould have induced him to pre-.
fent to the Public, what ought never to have efcaped
beyond the limits ef private perufal.
A 4
Vill
Confcious how little his ** Notes’? are calcu-.
lated to withftand the fcrutinizing feverity of cri-
ticifm, he may obferve that, at no time, during
the period of writing them, had hea thought that
they were deftined to appear at the bar of the pub-
lic. To fulfil the wifhes of one, whofe fentiments
and opinions were dear to him, was a grateful
tafk : it was congenial to his feelings, and, regard-
lefs of ftudied rules, he performed it with all the
freedom of familiar intercourfe. He, daily, devoted
to his friend the few lait minutes, previous to em-
bracing his pillow: it, confequently, happéned
that his remarks were, frequently, traced with a
drowfy pen, or hurried over with a wearied and re-
Juctant arm: but, from adopting this habit, the bufy
occupation of the day, fuffered no interruption ; 5
all the occurrences were noted, whilft they were
{trongly alive in the memory ; and thofe who have
known the privation of a long and perilous, abfence
from their home, and the objects of their efteem,
will comprehend the many happy aflociations, °
which were, thus, brought to fweeten the hours of
repofe.
At the time of the author’s arrival in | the
Wet Indies every thing, in the tropical regions, was
new to him. His defire to obtain iitorniiene was
ardent, and without waiting to digeft his remarks
ae Tae — , 7
SA es ee ene a Sow ya ee
ee
into a fyftematic train—to flamp them with the
importance of method—or te improve them by
more mature obfervation, he endeavoured to con-
vey, to his friend, a correct and faithful reprefenta-
tion of the feelings imprefled upon his mind, by
the novel fcenes around him, whilft he was yet a
ftranger, and before habit and familiarity had
weakened their effect.
He fears that the frequent repetitions, necel-
fary to this mode of communication, will be found
to be more tedious, and, in fome inftances, even
more multiplied than a “* thrice told tale,”? but he.
- faw no way of avoiding them, without altering the
whole plan of the work, and depriving it of the
only merit, which he feels it has any title to claim,
viz. that of giving the occurrences, precifely as
they paffed before the éye. He was not engaged
in a deliberate voyage of difcovery; mor did the
bufy and anxious duties of his appointment allow
him time to devote to purfuits of minute inveftica-
tion. The utmoft he could hope was to catch
events as they pafled, and faithfully to note them ;
from the impreffion of the fleeting moment: and,
if it fhould be obje@ted to him that the remarks
are not always of high importance, he would
obferve that it is not from great occurrences,
alone, that a corre judgment is formed of men
|
<
Uy
and things. It is more from the daily, common
round, than from the great and blazoned events,
that a juft knowledge is acquired of the cha~
racters of individuals :—perhaps, alfo, of empires,
nations, and colonies.
CONTENTS
THE FIRST VOLUME.
\
LETTER 1
Concerning the correfpondence of diflant friends. Difap-
pointment the author's friend avill be likely to experience iz
the correfpondence folicited. Sfourney to Southampton.
Mail coach affociates. The author joins the army—reports
bimfelf at head quarters. His fenfations upon placing
dinfelf under military command. Military hofpital. Au-
thor’s purfuits upon the day 24 bis arrival at 8outhamp-
LOite in ree - a Pa age f
LED PER. I
Scenery, promenades, amufements, Sc. of Southampton. Its
many accommodaticns for the fick and the well, Reflections
upon viftting the encampment near Southampton. Remarks
sipon the difcouraging fentiments conveyed to the troops.
dhe author obtains leave of abjence to return to London.
Probable miftake refpetiing the author, and fome of his
comrades. The utility of perfons engaged in the fervice
accommedating themfelves to circumflances. Facility 9 of
gelding to events a leading feature in the charactir of i
oe
XI
French. Reflections upon this principle as forming a cott-
traft between the French and Englifo. Further obferva-
tions upon the strench character. Hi Page 16
\
LETTER - Ii.
The author returns to London with Doétor Mafter. They
are ordered to join the St. Domingo flagf, at Cork.’ Au-
thor paffes a few days with his friends. - Provides new
- Jupplies of baggage. Medical officers? uniform. 26
ET TER A
Author returns to Southampton. Defiinaticn of the Ulyffes,
reported to be changed. Expedition fill delayed. Author
vifits the taeatre and public rooms, at Southampton. The-~
7
atrical Corps. - - 28
BETTER V. ;
Author and bis comrades detained in fufpenfe at Port/mouth.
Objects commonly noticed by flrangers in and about that
‘a place. Port/mouth different in time of war and of peace.
Hint that in peace it might be an ceconomical retirement
for prodigals. Anecdote fhewing its extravagance in time
of war. ' Profligacy obferved upon the ftreets of Portf-
mouth. Defeription of the drefs and perfon of a“ Portf-
mouth Poll.” Progrefs of a long abfent tar, upon lending
at Portfmouth. Vifit to the dock-yard. Honorable re-—
treat of Admiral Cornwallis. The Hhaflar hofpital. - In-
tended military hofpital at Gofport. Obliging attention of
Dr. Lind. Author addreffed by a bounty-man at the
Haflar. The ramparts. Obfervations on the fad neceffity
of man fortifying himfeif againft the ravages of bis own
Wpeciet. 7) 4) = = - ee
X11
LETTER: VI.
“futher receives infiruGions to proceed to Cork in the Bridge-
_avater tranfport. Is offered an exchange from the St.
Domingo to the Leeward Tfand fat. Lmbarkation of
troops. Tempefiuous fcenery at Portf{mouth. Author vifits the
* Circus. Adventure of a Britifb tar at this theatre. Author
dodges at the Widow Butler's. Is led into religious contro -
ver[y with his hofte/s. Obtains her blefjing, by prefcribing
a fimple food for ber children. 2 Page co
LEV PER Wil
Author goes to Spithead and St. Helen's with Dr. Henderfon,
gn fearch of the Bridgewater tranfport. They return to
Portfmouth unfuccefsful. Violent fiorm on the 29th of
OGfober. Its effect upon the minds of the common people,
Fleets detained by bad weather, and contrary winds. Suge
geftion that an approaching peace may prevent the expedi-
ie from preceeding to its deflination. Credulity of a hy poe
chondriac lady, who afeed a celebrated empiric to tell her
the name of ber malady. - - 62
-
LEVIER (VIE.
-
~~
Author and bis colleagues joined by Dr. Cleghorn. Doors
Mafter, Cleghorn, and the author cotemporaries at Edin-
burgh, and fellow-pupils of Guys and St, ‘Thomas's.
Author and his comrades, joined by Mr. Nicholl, again vifit
_ the Dock-yard, Haflar Hofpital, and Forton Prifon. Vi->
ciffitudes of war exemplified in the cafe of a French pri-
_ fener. ie Nae Sire 74
ae |) am
LETTER , IX.
)
Author and bis comrades embark on board the Ulyffes at Spit-
head. Report of the expedition being about ta fail. Con-
fequent hurry and confufton. Scramble for provifions.
Author and his comrades buy a giblet pie upon the frreet,
bot from the oven. Embarkation fcene at Portfmouth.
Author's account of having witnefid a fimilar foene at
Geneva, but of a nature and extent far more afflicting.
Condu& of an emigrant marquis upon that occafion. Re-
ception of the author and his comrades on board the Ulyffes.
Proceedings of the firft night on board. Page 78
LETTER © X.
Leeward land divifion of the expedition puts to fea. Ap-
pearance of the fleet on doubling the point of the Ifle of
Wight. Its failing forms a grand and pleajing [pectacle. Fir-
ing of cainon on board a foip. Author's fenfations convince
him that he is no longer upon terra firma. Putrid wa-
ter on board the Ulyffes. Kitchen inconveniences. Au-
thor expects to proceed ta Ireland. ° 102
LETTER XI.
A dreadful form overtakes the fleet. It returns to St. Helen's
in a difabled condition. Author's fenfations during thé form.
Thofe of other Paffengers unaccuftumed to the fea. Quaint
jokes and remarks of the failors. Difmal effects of the
gale. Author and bis comrades go on fhore at Port{mouths
and at the Ifle of Wight. »Ave told that the Ulyffes is to,
proceed to Cove with the jirft fair wind, without waiting
for the convoy. hit, . 110
AV
‘LETTER ‘XI.
Military incertitude not inferior to the glorious uncertainty
ofthe law. Examples in proof of this. The Ulyffes deftined
to make a running paffage, with troops, to Martinique.
Punifoment of flogging a failor round the fleet. Page 120
‘LETTER XUL
_ Author and his comrades again on fbore. Portfmouth
thronged, and many compelled to fleep in chairs, hammocks,
és, Author obtains a bed by firatagem. St. Domingo
Stoves removed from the Ulyffes 3 and the foctal quartette of
the wardroom ordered to feparate into the George and
Bridget, and the Lord Sheffieid tranfports. Further ac-
count of the difaftrous effects of the form. Author and
his comrades fuppofed to have been at fea with the convoy. |
Felicitations of an old lady at Gofport, on feeing Dr. Cleg-
horn fafely returned. - - 126
LETTER XIV,
Perilous expedition of the author and others to the Mother-
bank. They fave themfelves on board the Diana frigate.
Hofpitality and humane attentions of the officers of that
foip. Lieutenant Davy a valuable officer, and an accom-
plifhed man. Author and the companions of his peril pafs
the night on beard the Diana. Proceed to the Mother~
bank, and embark on board the Lord Sheffield. Firff im-
pref ion from the appearance of that foip highly favorable.
135
é
y XVI “oli
LETTER XV. |
Bxcwgfin 20 the Conmeree de Marfeilles at St. Helen’ s.
Appearance of that foip as viewed from a fmall boat at
her fide. Author vifits his comrades on board the George
and Bridget : goes to the play at Portfmouth. Tumul-
tuous proceedings at the Theatre. Author returns to the
Lord Sheffield. Dr. Cleghorn joins the mefs on board that
foip- Symptoms af falling. Linen taken wet from the
qa/e-tub. o Page 145
LETTER XVI.
Convey fails on the oth of December. Author promifes te
make notes on the paffage for his friend, if the fea will let
him. Splendid appearance of the convoy. It meets with
tempeftuous weather. Defeription of a flormat fea, \ Ele-
ments hoftile to the expedition. Gale repeated. Lord
Sheffield left alone upon the ecean—Prevented from giving
relief toa finking /uip. A melancholy and afflicting foene
CnfUChn |. = ~ - i gk
LETTER XVIE.
The nesw year mild iid of good promife. - Ciiulus and Nep~
tune enraged again? the youthful deputy of time. Storms
and gales vepeated. Delight of affociating with congenial
friends. A good foip fearcely perifbuble at open fea.
Accidents and difafters of the Lord Sheffield. Contraft
between land/men and feamen during a form. Apathy of
failors regarding tke wediher. Their eculiag degrees
& s &
In ek —
xVil
comparifon. Cool replies of an old fleward. Odd tumbles
and poflures of the paffengers amufing to the failors.
Dinner fcene during a gale. Superftition and prejudices
of failovs. Whiftling on board fhip. Mother Cary’s
| chicken. Blowing for a wind. Marks of the Lord
Sheffield having paffid the Azores, - Page 164
LETTER XVIII.
Lord Sheffield arrives at Barbadoes. Setting in of the trade
wind. Striking change in the failing and working of the
Joip. Lord Sheffield falls in with No. 4. tran/port, with
a band of mufic on board—/fpeaks a Spanifb veffel—alfo the
Britannia tranfport.. Advantages of being on board a Weft
India foip. Author adopis a preparatory regimen, to guard
bim againft the effects of climate. Exclamation of one of
the author’s comrades, on being firft attacked with “ prickly
heat.” Diftant land vifible to failors long before it is to
others. Firft appearance of Barbadoes. Lord Sheffield,
happily, prevented by the land breeze, from going into the
harbour at night. Scenery on entering Carlifle bay,
18t
LETTER XIX.
Ceremony of cleaning and painting Weft India fhips. Feelings
of failors refpetting the failing of their veffils. Tobacco an
univerfal cordial among failors. Specimen of economy in a
young tar. Negro economy. Baptifmal ceremony on croff-
ing the tropic. Author and his comrades work at the cap«
flan. An accident happens to Dr. Cleghorn. Harpoons
and other inftruments prepared for flriking fifo. Peculiar
habit of porpoifes. Sharks, dolphins, and flying fifb ufed as
food. Stupidity of the Shark. Splendid appearance of a fheal
of dolphins. Remarks upon the firucture, and motion of
Vor. I. a.
XVHL
the wings of the flying jifo. Small fying fib an indication
of approaching the land. Temperature of the water of the
Atlantic. Lights produced by the fhip at night. Small
vainbows upon the furface of the ocean. Appearance of the
fun and moon at fea, within the tropics. Weft India
Sky. Evening clouds, he - Page 199
LETIER “Xx:
Muthor continues to addrefs bis friend, although he cannot fend
away his letters. Lord Sheffield vifited by anxious crowds
in queft of news. Perilous ftate of St. Vincent and Gre-
nada. Guadaloupe reinforced. French gafconade. Ene=
mys frigates and cruifers infeft the coafi of Barbadoes.
Lofs of the Leda frigate. Brunfwick detached with troops
to St. Vincent. The loft Stanley fafe in Carlifle Bay—alfa
nine or ten other tranfports of the December convoy. Au
thor and his comrades go on foore at Barbadoes. Remarks
upon the novelty of the feene. Vifit toan American flave
fiip : - ~~ toa Liverpool Guinea-man, = 220
LETTER XXtI.
. |
Author and bis comrades live on beard foip at Barbadoes. \
Accommodation of a Barbadoes tavern. Method of cooling :
| liquors. Porter better than in England. Tavern wait- ‘
ers. Black and mulatto hofteffes. Privilege of female .
attendants. Bar-maid at Mary Bella Green's. Law
concerning the children of flaves. Women of colour not digs
nified with the title of miftrefs. mech with two fe=
male flavesy = 239
KIX
“LETTER XX.
Meat fold alive in the market at Barbadaes. Cujlom of blow-
ing the meat. Creoles caution Dr. Cleghern and the
author againff walking. Vifit to a fugar plantation.
Specimen. of the indolent labour of flaves. A wafbing
party. Indecency of women upon the frreets. Effect of the
indecent habits of flaves upon the minds of white females.
Negro cuftom of picking each other’s heads. Savage fight
between a black woman, and a mulatto woman, Page 253
LETTER XXiil.
Sunday a day of feftivity among the flaves. African dance, -
and mufic. Remarks of a Scottifh woman on feeing the
negroes dance. Eracas between a negro man and woman,”
Negro funeral. Faith of flaves in tranfiigration aftey
death. Singular expedient to deter them from fuicide, 263
LETTER XXIV.
Author and his comrades receive kind attentions from Mr. B.
Hinde. Make a vifit to Dr. Hinde. General face of
the country above Bridge-Town. The party at Dr.
FHiinde’s witnefs the procefs of making rum and fugar.
Slaves employed as running footmen.’ Four women feen
toiling in a cane-field with a man holding a whip at
their backs. Dr. Cleghorn and the Author continue theiy
walking exercife. Meet with trees of the poifonous man-
- shineel—alfo of the fea-grape. A coco-nut grove. Hof=
pitality of a planter. A happy negro-yard. Mode of
wafbing linen at Barbadves, = 7 a7G
a2
RX
‘LETTER xXVv.
Author and his comrades make an excurfion to Col. Wil-
liams’s. Cuftom of riding with a fugar cane. Soil of
Barbadoes. Piéturefque fcenery of the diftrid called Scot-
land. § Sweet fhades” of Turner’s-hall wood. Boiling
or inflammable fpring. Burbadoes Tar. Lemons left to
fall under the trees, like crabs. Mountain cabbage-
tree. View from Mount Hilloughhy. A © runaway
eftate.” A golden orchard. A * fecial’ rock.” Cray-
jie foupy and Centurian Oranges. Evening ride to Bridge-
Town. Running flaves the only alloy to a moft delightful
excurfion. Belfaft tranfport captured by the enemy, Trees,
plants, and fruits of Barbadoes. Remarks concerning
‘the cultivation and flavour of pines, . Rage. 292
LETTER. XXVE
Convoys and packet flill delayed. Single veffels arvive. Tranf-
ports taken by the enemy. Inhabitants anxious to have the
troops employed. — Sailors defert from the Lord Shef-
feed. Alarm concerning a boat’s crew. Oars employed
as fails. Negroes in flave fbips taught to be ufeful.
Captains of Gnineamen walk on foore with parties of the
foip’s cargo. Book-binding not among the trades of
_ Barbadoes. Preparations for an excurfion to Hackleton’s
cliff. The church at Bridge Town. The fignal code,
Rie r - | a = 320
, | |
MEPTER” Sx:
Marooning excurfion to the windward coaft of Barbados.
- Harrifon's Cave. Sugar Hill. Foes River. Unhappy
3
KK1
Jate of the Rev. Mr. H. its late poffefar. Bay-heufe. Beer-
joeba. Animal flower. Hackleton’s cliff. Mules of the
Alps. Ginger plantation. Colleton eftate. Urbanity of
Mr. Hollingsworth and family. Codrington college. Coach
Hill. Negroes dine in the open field expyled to the fun.
Mode of claying fugar. Eccentric manager of Kendall
eftate. Drax-hall, Barbadoes one of the ‘* Friendly Ifles.”
Spendlove eftate. Hofpitality and benevolence of Mr. Fohn
Waith. Fat people not uncommon in Barbadoes. Grati-
tude of flaves. Negro privileges. Pitlurefque fcenery of a
Negro yard. Darket held on Sunday. Supplied by Ne-
. groes. Sprats, lobfiers, and milk punch ferved after din-
ner. Mr. Waith, fen. invites the Party to a Barbadoes’
farmer's dinner. Difappointment refpecling Mr. Ellcock’s
botanical collection. Compenfation by recommending it to the
attention of Dr. Wright. General remarks concerning the
excurfion, gt - aoe Page 330
LETTER XXVIIL
Still no tidings of the Comimander in Chief or the Convoy.
A trading fbip arrives from Glafgow. Anxiety difplayed
auhen any veffel enters Carlifle bay. Privateers captured.
A detachment of troops fent to Grenada. Uncertainty of
all expeditions by fea. Black corps formed at Barbadoes.
Negroes of the French colonies betray all the levity and
vivacity of the French character. Dry feafon at Barba-
does. Heat of the climate. Suggeftien that it might be
politic to fend out the hofpitals, barracks, and other build-
ings, previous tothe failing of the Troops. Ho/pitals ereéted
at St Anne’s bill. Troops in the tranfports unhealthy,
_ Moon light view of a coco-nut grove, near Bridge-
Town, ; = "378
XXL
LETTER XXIX,
Author claims the freedom of “ noting” upon all fubjed?s,
Polite and learned prattitioners in medicine at Barbadves.
The contrary. Anecdote of a Barbadoes medicafter. Re-
marks upan the fatal confequences of allowing every pretender
to vange at large in the medical profeffion. Empirics and
patents. New Tavern at Bridge-Lown. Mode of fepara-
ting the feeds from cotton, Barbadoes method of carrying
children. Suggeftion whether it may not be preferable to the
Englifo methad. A fpectmen of the bitter hardfbips of
flavery, - - = Page 3 88
LETEER .KAX,
Author fends his friend a lift of the foips of the convoy which
had reached Barbadoes. Aveffel from Liverpool arrives
in Carlifle bay. The body of the fleet full wandering up-
en the ocean. Packet fill delayed. Cork divifion found te
be at Cove long after it was reported at fea. Probability of .
ihe author and his comrades being employed, in confequence
of the increafing number of fick. Carlifle-bay difiurbed by
Prefs-gangs. Confijfion created by the failors of one of
the tranfports refifting them. The Lord Sheffield vifited
by two gangs in one night, ~ = 4090
LETTER XXXI,
Senate houfe, and general affembly of Barbadoes. Punch and
Sangaree a pleajant part of the debate. Altercation in the-
eourt of Chancery. Interefting party dine with the mefs
XXIiL.
of the Lord Sheffield. Hazardous efcape of two Englifh+
men from confinement. Honorable conduct of Vitor
Hugues? fecretary. Remarks on bribery and corruption—
on patriotifm. Self-love, and the love of fame fironger
incentives to action than love of country, Page 408
LETTER XXXII.
4 packet arrives at Barbadoes, Carlifle bay, and Bridge~
Lown one great feene of confijion. High feaft of peruf-
ing the news-papers. The fleet fo long expecled at Bare
badoes fiillin England, Seafon growing late for military
operations. Report that honers are to be conferred ou Ad-
miral Chriftian jor bis great exertions in taking care of the
convoy. Adiniral Cornwallis expefied in the Weft Indiese
Hope of peace vanifbed. Aufirian armies checked and
defeated. Scarcity of corn and foecie in England. Gree
nada in danger of being talen by the Brigands.—St.Vine -
cent. ».«. by the Charis. A French fpy detected at
Barbadoes, = > i lheg : 4'9
Sir Ralph Abercromby arvives at Barbadoes on St. Patrick's
day. Foyous fcene in Carlifle bay. Author's reflections
upon fcenes which may follow. Succefs of the General in his
third attempt to make the voyage. Many rumours expected
to prevail. Infiuence of feafon with refpect to a campaign
an the Weft Indies. The general Cuyler, and Clarendon ar.
vive in Carlifle bay. State of the Clarendon. Perils of
the general Cuyler. A Dutch mode of punifbment,
Progrefs of a leaky foip. Concerning the foips of the De-
cember convey which made good their paffagey = 439
XXIV
LETTER: OCU
Carlifle bay the Thames of the W eft Indies. Aevival from
- various quarters. A flave-/hip engages a French priva-
teer. The Madras Eaft Indiaman, and a packet arrive
in Carlifle bay. Admiral Chriftian receives the honors of
Knighthood. Vifit to the Venus flave-bip.. Author and
Dr. Cleghorn continue to ufe walking exercife. Eftate of
Mr. Daniel. Tamarind tree, and fruit, Page 443
LETTER: T,
x
Concerning the correfpondence of diffant friends. Difap-
pointment the author's friend will be likely to experience in
the correfpondence folicited. “fourney to Southampton.
Mail coach affociates. The author joins the army—reports
bimfelf at’ head- quarters. His fenfations upon - placing
himfelf under military command. Military hofpital. Aus
thor’s purfuits upon the day of his arrival at Southampton.
| Southampton, Oct. 3, 1795.
‘Tur bios we enjoy by preferving an
intercourfe with our friends when feparated
from them, beyond the reach of perfonal
Anterview, ranks: ra a the higheft bleffings
of civilized life. ‘The focial principle which
attaches, man to his fpecies, influences him
wherefocver he may be placed,.or whatfo-
ever his condition—it prevails equally in fa-
vage life and in polithed fociety :—but it is
tO navigation. and the art of writing, thofe
' ,powerful engines which -have eftablithed 4
freedom of intercourfe throughout the wide
VOL. 1. ane
2
extent of the globe, that we are indebted for
the fuperior enjoyment of communicating
with far diftant friends, and thereby ren-
dering our feparation lefs intolerable,
Yet, will you, my friend, I fear, but too
foon difcover how much you have facrificed
your judgment to your friendfhip, in fo
ftrenuoufly requiring frequent communica-
tions, from me, during my abfence from Eng- |
land.—In the correfpondence your kindnefs
has exacted you will have to encounter a
tafk, while all the advantages of amufe-
ment and inftruction will be mine: but you
have brought it upon yourfelf, and muft,
therefore, be content to fee me your debtor,
affured of my regret that the benefit, to be
derived, cannot be reciprocal. Did I even
poffefs all the glowing and happy talents ne-
ceflary to defcriptive narration, the bufy
employment of my time, and the unfettled
ftate of my mind, amidft the perpetual hurry
and uncertainty of military movements, muft
prevent me from obferving, and {till more
| from relating what may pafs before me, with
the accuracy you might exped, or I could
3
defire. Indeed, were genius mine, and all
the acute and penetrating powers fitted for
the tafk, ftill, from being unable to mature
my remarks by the recurrent eye of a con-
tinued refidence, all I could offer you, would,
neceflarily, be fuperficial and undigefted. '
You will perceive, therefore, that, under
all circumftances, yours cannot fail to bea |
trial of patience, for, you can only expect
the perufal of hafty notes, haftily collected, ©
_ by an obferver whofe time muft be devoted
to the duties of his appointment—and whofe
moventents and paufes muft be regulated by
thofe exigencies of the army which more
immediately, and imperioufly demand his at-
tention. |
But it were needlefs to enter into a de-
tail of the allowances you will have to make.
You already know them: hence, as apologies
are irkfome to you, I forego all further com-
ment, and, meeting you as you defire, pro-
ceed to my fubjet. You command me,
and, as the foft dictates of friendthip ufually
pulfate upon my heart with an influence
, | |
4.
too pentchal to be difregarded —my pen
obeys.
The adventures of a ftage-coach are fome-
times amufing, but it happened that my jour-
ney, hither, was peculiarly devoid of incident,
being, merely, a dark noturnal ride, which
paffed on without any thing to divert, or to
intereft. : |
According’ to my ufual habit I felt no
difpofition to fleep, but, wrapt in penfive
ftillnefs, fat undifturbed, and let my cogitative
faculties have their way. My fat companions,
whom you faw in the mail, proved to be three
of the fiurdy fons of old Ocean. ‘They had
formed rather an intimate acquaintance with
a certain perfonal pronoun; and, in ab-
ruptnefs of manner, feemed to be as nearly
related to that great perfonage Mr. John
Bull, as to his kind patron, father Neptune.
If I miftake them not, they were the com- -
manders of fome trading fhips, or tranfports,
eoing out with the convoy. The one fitting
upon the fame feat with myfelf, fo fpread his
huge fea-worn limbs as: to occupy nearly the
5
whole width of the coach, thrufting my, com-
paratively, diminutive perfon up into the cor-
ner like a very bodkin. Each of them, plant-
ing himfelf, with aloud grunt, quite at his
eafe, they all lowered down their travelling
caps, and, turning into their births in the fe-
veral corners, funk as profoundly into the
arms of Morpheus as though they had been
quietly {winging in their hammocks upon the
{mooth furface of a weiiern ocean. Occa-
fionally they were rather loud in ftarts of
fonorous repofe, otherwife they caufed no
interruption of my meditations ; and as dark-
nefs deprived me of all the variety of paffing
objedts, the want of fleep was, in fome mea-
fure, compenfated by my fenfes falling into
the flumber of weakened impreffion.
Amidft the ftillnefs of night we rolled
{wiftly on, without impediment or delay,
always finding horfes in readinefs at the place
of change. Even the great bufinefs of eat
ing and drinking was more than commonly
difregarded. No focial hour ef fupper was
obferved: nor were our conductors troubled
with thofe frequent calls of thirft, which are,
B3
6.
commonly, fo vexatious and annoying to the
paffengers. ‘To arrive at the end of the jour-
ney feemed alike the objec of all, Within
the coach it was my lot, alone, to be fenfible
of time, or diftance. Our fleeping captains
might have fancied themfelves to have been
transferred by fome fudden or fylph-like aid ;
for, the curtains of their eyes but dropped
with the clofing day of London, to be again
uplifted with the rifing fun of Southampton.
"We arrived at an early hour, and after
taking the refrefhment of a cold ablution,
and a plentiful breakfaft, I proceeded, with-
out delay, to head-quarters, to announce my
arrival, and to pay my refpecis to the com-
mander in chief. It happened that the in-
fpetor-general of hofpitals was with Sir
Ralph Abercromby, at the time I called, I,
therefore, reported my appointment to both—
and put myfelf under command.
The effe&t of this moment, upon my
mind, I had not fully anticipated. It wasa
moment big with fenfation, but I cannot fay
—with delight! A fudden impulfe flufhed
7
within me, which feemed to create unex-
pected feelings, as it were, of regret, on the
furrender of my liberty. Recalling the days
of my youth, when, at fchool, I was fubje&
to the will of a mafter, my mind, in vivid
remembrance, rapidly retraced all the images
of a reftraint which had fo long been irkfome
to it, and in high impatience of the impref-
fion, bufy appeal feemed to call aloud, ‘* Doft
thou not recollect that it was then, the anx-
ious theme of all thy hopes to efcape from
fetters, and gain the exercife of thine own
will? Didft thou not anticipate, as the con-
fummation of thy beft wifhes, the proud and
happy period when thou fhould’ft arrive at
the power of felf-command? and, this at-
tained, would’ft thou, now, furrender the free-
- dom of ation fo long, and fo anxioufly con-
templated as thy greateft good—would’ft thou
abandon the happy acquifition for which —
thou hadft languifhed—for which thou hadft
toiled through fo many tedious years ?”
Such were the repugnant, and difcourag-
ing appeals of momentary impulfe; but fober
reafon quickly refumed her throne, and, pure
B 4
8
fuing a more tempered train of ideas, ba~
hifhed the hoftile impreflion; when the re-
newal of former contemplations {con reflored
‘me to myfelf. ,
From the quarters of the commander in
chief, I accompanied the infpeétor-general to
vifit the fick, and, in profeffional purfuit,
forgot the wayward feelings of a difcordant
moment. sesh op
This walk afforded me the opportunity
of taking an early view of the military hofpital,
and I have great pleafure in remarking to
you that it does much credit to the doétor’s *
judgment and-induftry. Placed in the di-
reGtion of the medical department, his exer-
tiens have demonftrated how effential it is to
commit that important appointment to an
officer whofe experience qualifies him for all
the various duties it demands. From a well
devifed arrangement, forwarded by a zealous:
and laudable induftry, he has caufed a large
old building, late a fugar-houfe, to be con-
* Sir J. M‘Namara Hayes.
ia. oie ee Se ves
9
verted into a commodious, and well-aired
hofpital; where the unfortunate fick are
comfortably placed, duly attended, and con-
veniently, as well as liberally accommodated |
with all that their afflicted fituation de-
mands. |
After my vifit at the hofpital, I fpent the
remainder of the morning in, perambulating
the town and its environs, and in making va=
rious calls upon my friends and acquaintances.
At the hour of dinner I found myfelf en fa-
mille with colonel M., whofe lady is among
the unhappy inconfolables, whom this fad
expedition is about to feparate from their
Lords. In the afternoon I joined feveral of
my profeffional comrades at the infpector-
general’s; and, to complete the round of a
bufy day, accompanied a party, in the even-
. ing, to the public rooms: the night I crown
to you, for, as my pen traces the hour, the
clock ftrikes«——twelve.
10
LEE DER ” ET.
Scenery, promenades, amufements, Sc. of Southampton. Its
many accommodations for the fick and the well. Reflections
upon vifiting the encampment near Southampton. Remarks
upon the difcouraging fentiments conveyed tu the troops.
The author obtains leave of abfence to return to London.
Probable. miftake refpetting the author, and fome of his
comrades. The utility of perfons engaged in the fervice
accommodating themfelves to circumftances. Facility of
yielding to events a leading feature in the character of the
French. Reflections upon this principle as forming a con-
traft between the French and Englifo. Further obferva-
tions upon the French character,
Southampton, O&. 5.
aoe you a ftranger to Southampton, I
might offer you many full pages upon its de-
lightful fituation, and the many charms of its
environs; for it cannot be difputed that this
town and neighbourhood afford more of
pleafing fcenery, convenience, and accom-
modation, than moft other {pots in England.
Within the town, the fick and the feeble
have the benefit of fea-bathing, the well and
the diffipated the amufements of a playhoufe,
public rooms, card-playing, and aflemblies :—
II
without it, all may find recreation—the va-
rious promenadés, either for walking, riding,
rowing, or failing, being fuch as to invite and
to gratify even the moft faftidious. Pleafant
walks, delightful water excurfions, and the
fineft foreft rides, abound on every quarter,
offering all the variety of open country, in-
clofed fields, fea and river views, and wood-
land fcenery. Nor are the common and more
generally ftriking lions of the neighbourhood
lefs abundant: there being, within reach, a
multitude of towns, places, and objeéts which
ufually attract the attention of f{trangers, fuch
as Portfmouth and its dock-yard, Gofport
and its hofpital, the Ifle of Wight, the fleet
at Spithead, Winchefter, Lymington, Lynd-
hurft, Netley Abbey, &c. &c. &c.
In fhort, Southampton would feem to be
one of the few places equally calculated for
the invalid, the idle, and the gay; for each
may find the purfuit fitted for his habits and
-tnclinations.. Without the too common ex-
cefs of diffipation, this place offers every re-
creation and amufement that a rational mind
can defire ; and, in the happy combination
IZ
of its rural fcenery, it prefents all the firft
requifites of a fummer retirement. Nor will
the mere Epicurean vifitor be difappointed of
his gratification,—for the market is plente-
oufly fupplied with the good things of life.
The fith, poultry, butcher’s-meat, and. ve-
getables are not only abundant, but, alfo, the
beft of their kind.
The town is, commonly, well filled with
company, during the fummer ; but, this year,
from the attraction of a camp, and the crowd
of military aflembled to proceed with the
expedition, it is overflowing, and, confe-
quently, all is life and motion. Still thofe
who feek retirement can readily find it,
whether in the lefs public parts of the town,
in the hedge-row path, the lonely fea-fide
walk, or, in penfive ramble, amidft the deep
fhades of the foreft:—or, they may efcape _
from the bufy crowd, and noify throng, by
retiring to the fill furface, and the tranquil
fcenes of the river.
The town itfelf bears all the appearance
of neatnefs and comfort, and the many hand-
II
3
2 | . e I UJ
fome villas near it not only improve the fur-
rounding icenery, but, likewife, impofe a ge-
neral air of wealth and opulence.
As you know my habit of vifiting what
are called te lions of a place, as foon as poffible |
after my arrival, you will conclude that I
have not neglected the encampment near
Southampton 5; and, in this, you will judge
correéily, for, verily, I have not been un-_
mindful of it. I have made ita vifit of very |
attentive infpection, and much do I with it
were pollible for words to convey, to you, all
the hoft of feeliags that rufhed into my mind
upon the occafion. A whole volume of
mixed fenfations crowded my bofom, and I
fearcely knew which was predominant. View-
‘ing the foldiers in full contemplation of the
firict order, the manly deportment, and the
elevated enthufiafm of the charafter, my
mind traverfed, in hafty review, all the pe-
rils and hardfhips,—the glory and honours,
which attach to a military life. I felt a fenfe
of pride and gratification on feeing fo fine
a body of men ready to join in our expedi-
14.
tion. My imagination faw all the inviting
forms of fuccefs before them. I obferved them
in battle, on the oppofite fide of the Atlantic;
felt honoured in their bravery ; hailed them
victorious, and, crowned with the laurels they
had won, re-conducted them, in fafety, to |
their home, and their friends.
Yet the bright picture was not without its
_ fhades: reftlefs fancy went on to bufy herfelf
in gloomy comparifons, in painful contrafts,
and afflidting reverfes! Viewing the bril-
liancy, the order, and the comfort of a do-
meftic camp, in the peaceful fields of England,
fhe called up ideas of a confufed and tumul-
tuous encampment upon the enemy’s foil,
threatened by the approach of a daring foe,
routed by blood-thirfty cohorts, or ftormed
by a horde of mercilefs brigands! Next ap-
peared the dire confufion of battle, the diftrefs
of defeat, and the dread effets of panic, with ©
all the horrid fcene of bleeding wounds,
dying groans, and mangled bodies, and, ftill
worfe than thefe, were pictured the fatal ills
of climate :—yellow-fever opened her all-
r5
devouring jaws, and, in deadly difeafe, ex-
pofed a contraft, yet more affliGtive, than all
the perils of battle or defeat.
Although, in my mind, the more happy
- face of the picture maintained its impreflion, I
am forry to believethat the general fenfation of
the country is in fympathy with the oppofite.
A degree of horror feems to have overfpread
the nation from the late deftructive effedts of
the yellow-fever, or, what the multitude de-
nominates, the Weft India plague ; infomuch
that a fenfe of terror attaches to the very.
name of the Weft Indiesmany, even, con-
fidering it fynonimous with the grave; and,
perhaps, it were not too much to fay, that all,
who have friends in the expedition, appre-
hend more from difeafe than the fword.
Such difcouraging fentiments I am forry
‘to find have not been concealed from the
troops. The fearful farewel of defponding
friends is every day, and hour, either heed-
lefsly, or artfully founded in their ears. Peo-
ple walking about the camp, attending at a
Teview, or a parade, or merely upon fecing
16
parties of foldiers in the flreets, are heard to
exclaim,—‘ Ah, poor fellows ! you are going
to your laft home! What pity fuch brave men
fhould go to that Weit India grave ! —to that
hateful climate to be killed by the plague!
Poor fellows, good bye, farewel! we {hall
never fee you back again!” With iuch like
accents are the ears of the foldiers inceflantly
faluted; and the hopelefs prediCtiens are
loudly echoed, for the worft of purpoles, by
the defigning, whofe turbulent f{pirits would
feaft in exciting difcontentment among the
troops. | Se :
But, ftrongly as I would condemn every
attempt, and every incaution, which might
create even the feebleft ray of terror in the
_ breafts of the foldiers, yet I.cannot but be fen-
fible, that it is a fervice of imminent danger:
and, while | look at thefe men, in high ad-
miration of their intrepid charaéter, the re-
collection of the general fenfation, which
prevails refpeQing them, fteals upon. me,
and my bofom heaves a filent pang in the
con{ciouinefs: that a great majority of them
will never return. Still 1 would hope that
ane 17
every foldier is governed by the fame in-
- dividual feelings as myfelf, and that each is
fully impreffed with the belief that it will be
his lot to efcape. With the greateft truth I
‘may aver that, notwithftanding all the de-
prefling rumours of the moment, and the
- trembling alarm of friends and relatives, I do
not feel the flighteft perfonal apprehenfion,
either with refpeG to climate, or difeafe. What
fhall prove to be my fate, amidft all the
chances of fervice, it were idle to conjecture,
~ but I fhall embark with confident affurance
of returning to my friends, and to Old
England.
_ It isthe duty of foldiers to ferve where-
foever their country requires, and hence the
attempts to infpire them with a dread of cli-
mate are not lefs cruel, than mifchievous.
Defigned to injure the country, they operate
by diftreffing the feelings of the individual,
whofe noble mind knows no fear of death
from other caufe ; but, if he falls, falls with-_
out a murmur—glorying in having devoted
himfelf to his country, and, calmly, refigning
himfelf to the fate of war. | ;
VOL, I. Be ne
18
It does not appear that the expedition is
fo, immediately, upon the eve of failing as is
generally imagined. The whole of the troops
are not yet aflembled, nor are all the tranf-
ports in readinefs. Finding this the cafe, I have
obtained leave of abfence for a week, oe |
have the profpect of feeing you again before
my departure.
Repeating my vifit at the Infpector Ge-
neral’s, I have learned, with fome furprize,
that my name is not upon the return of the
hofpital ftaff of this armament, and I begin to
fear that my being ordered to Southampton
has been the offspring of error. ‘Two other
ftaff-phyficians are in the fame predicament,
- andit is, even, probable, that, like many of the
more idle vifitors, we have only made a trip. —
to fee the camp, and go back again.
It is not unlikely that we may find our
names upon the St. Domingo flaff, inftead
of the ftaff of the Leeward Ilands; in which
cafe we may expedt to make a journey to.
Cork, to join the expedition about to fail from
Ireland. ‘This weuld be a difappointment to
SAPS hes
19
me, beyond the mere inconvenience of, again,
moving my perfon and my baggage, for, in
the Leeward Ifland divifion, I have acquaint-
ances, whom I had hoped to find my com= _
rades on fervice : while, with the St. Domingo
ftaff, there are very few perfons to whom I am
known. But I am prepared for all the uncer-_
tainties and difappointments, I may have to en-
counter : confidering the duties of my appoint-
ment as the great objet of my attention, I
fhall make it my ftudy to. remove whatever
difficulties may occur, by fubduing them.
Except in what regards individual con-
nections, there is, perhaps, no queftion of
choice between the two divifions of the arma-
ment ; the fervice, fo far as it refpecis our
department, being, effentially, the fame in one
part of the Weft Indies as in another; and,
if-I fhould be ordered to Cork to join the St.
Domingo expedition, I hope I have philo-
fophy enough to foothe the difappointment,
by regarding the journey through Wales, and
Ireland,—two countries which I have been
2 long defirous to vifit, in fome degree as a ,
compenfation.
C2
20
In my prefent purfuit I feel the neceffity
of eftablifhing it as a principle to view oc-
currences in their beft light, and, inftead of
repining that more cannot be obtained, to
feek comfort from what falls in my path.
Were we to adopt this as a leading maxim,
in all fituations, it is more than poffible that
we might, often, have happy hours, where we
know only thofe of mifery ; for fuch a prin-
_ ciple, applied with wifdom, would tend very
much to blunt the fharp thorns of life. As
_ ifthe evils of the world were not enough fe-
vere, we, too commonly, attach ourfelves to
the unhappy face of events, brood over fan-
cied forrows, and, eagerly, multiply our dif-
appointments, wholly overlooking the more
favorable features from which peace, har-
mony, and comfort might derive.
“ Yet forse there are, of men I think the worft,
Poor imps! unhappy if they can’t be curs’d,
For ever brooding over mis’ry’s eggs” *
a a i Se ee aie ee
ee ee ee ee
This gloomy tendency of our difpofition
forms a remarkable characteriftic between the
people of England and thofe of France:
%’
21
while an Enelifhman, in afilitive contempla-
‘tion, dwells on misfortune, even to fuicide—a
Frenchman, let the affairs of the moment be
“never fo adverfe, always finds wherewithal to
attach his better hopes; and, furely, when
any occurrence proves lefs happy than we had
anticipated, it is wife policy rather to extract
from it all the good we can, than to give up
ourfelves wholly to the fadnefs of difappoint-
ment, becaufe it fulfils not our every with.
From this facility of yielding to events,
it has been faid that the French people :
know how to play the game of happinefs-
better than the Englifh. It may be fo. But
_ full it is poffible that the principle, to which
T allude, may be carried to excefs. Where it
is the effect of a patient and manly fortitude,
and employed to fupport us againft injury,
misfortune, and difappointment, it is both
amiable and virtuous, and may be dignifhed
with the title of philofophy. But it is fome-
times the effect of frivolity, or depravity—
is connected with vice and diffipation, and
highly unworthy. When proceeding from
this fource, it fuperfedes all the finer feelings
/ neo
22
and fentiments of the mind. It deftroys ae
natural affeCtions, and, weakening the attach-
ment, which ought to exift, between man and,
man, tends to make mere egotifts of us all.
It not only renders us infenfible to our own
misfortunes, and the common ills of life, but
makes us callous to the fufferings of others,
and fhuts the heart againft thofe feelings
of fympathy and compaffion, which, being
founded in humanity, are among the acbighelt
adornments of our nature. :
Notwithftanding my determination to
pafs over the ills of my prefent employment as
lightly as pofible, I confefs myfelf to be one
of thofe dull Britons who would hope never
to fee the period when French levity fhall
fuperfede John Bull’s fedate integrity. Ifa
Frenchman diffipates the pafling moment
with greater mirth and cheerfulnefs, {till there
is a fomething in the more folid attachment,
and the blunt honefty of an Englifhman,
which is more important, and more interefts
and engages our elteem.
Asa ftranger, or traveller, I look not for
23
friendfhip, or for confidence, and have always
hailed that urbanity and eafe of manner,
which make the moment pleafant ; or have
been in good humour with that f{mooth and
extended politenefs which means no-
‘thing at all! But, when refiding among.
Englifhmen,—my countrymen, whom I
regard more as the relatives of one great
family, I have always feemed to expect a
. degree of ftability and fincerity, which it
were idle to look for in the mere traveller’s
‘hour. |
The plodding purfuits, and fober attach-
ments of the Englith, poffefs not fufficient
got for the appetite of a Frenchman,
whofe life may be faid to conftitute one
fyftem—one continued feries of intrigue.
In all ‘his occupations he requires the high
feafoning of variety. Whatever the fubftance
of his purfuit, intrigue’ is always the condi-
ment. (Without a {pice of intrigue the board
were infipid, however fumptuous. A French-
man:troubles not himfelf with the affeQiions ;
but is a dupe to his paffions. His attach-
ments wear away with the moment, and are
C 4
2,
not thought of beyond the period of being
convenient to his purpofe. He is often dif
appointed, but never difmayed. All regret,
for the paft, he buries in fome new {cheme or
adventure. If one projeét fails, he, inftantly,
flies to another, exclaiming, ‘* Ah, Diable!
cela ne me conviens pas. Il y faut un autre
projet. Allons! tachons encore.”—If he —
fucceeds not to-day, he has always a new plan
for to-morrow. If difcomfited in the fcheme
of the morning, he feels certain of fuccefs in
the zouveau projet of the evening. Some-
thing new, fomething not of plain or ready
attainment—fomething’ poffefling a real or
a fancied intricacy is always imagined, or
attempted. No matter how vaft, or how fri-
volous the obje¢’—whether a revolution of
the ftate, or a game of loto. It diverts his
attention, diffipates the moment, fhields him
from the fadnefs of difappcintment, and fhuts
the door againft ennui. From the condud,
ufually, purfued it would feem to be.a lead=
ing feature, in the charaéter of a Frenchman,
not to attach himfelf ferioufly, or permanently,
to any thing; but to avail himfelf of all
paffing circumftances, yielding to each, or
; 25
caufing each to yield to his purpofe. In this
way he travels the great journey _of life
with lefs of care and forrow than the more
fedate of other nations; fombre reflection
offering no impediment to a path, which, at
_ every ftep, bears his loved motto, — rs: Vine
p>? |
da issn
I am aware that you will plead very
broad exceptions to this, as a general cha-
racter, and I moft readily admit them ; for,
although the reverfe. is too common, I have
feen Frenchmen, under misfortune, whofe
patient fubmiffion, inftead of bearing the
marks of levity and frivolity, has exhibited
all the manly firmnefs of true ny and
philofophy. !
But I am wandering from my fubje@—
aieoeey, eer Good night!
26 ee
LETTER UI.
7
The author returns to London with Dottor Mafter. T hey )
are oraered to jon the St. Domingo flaff, at Cork. Au-
thor paffes a few days with his friends. Provides new |
Supplies of baggage. Medical officers? uniform.
| , London, O€. es
H HAD hoped that you would have received
my laft letter before you left town, and, in
the flattering expeCtation of feeing you again,
before my departure from England, I haftened :
to your home, immediately, upon my arrival
in London; when I was extremely difap-
pointed to find that you were gone, and that
I cannot have the gratification of, perfonally,
telling you, that my journey to Southampton ,
proves to have been only a vifit to the camp.
Finding that we were not appointed to
the Leeward Ifland divifion, Doctor Mafter —
and myfelf returned to Town, and, as we fuf-
pected, found our names upon the lift of the
St. Domingo ftaff. We are now directed to
proceed in the Ulyffes, armed tranfport, to
7 Q ;
/
27
-?@ork, to join: the expedition under major-
_ general Whyte. But as this fhip is now in
the Thames, and is to touch at Spithead on
her way, it will give us afew days to pre-
pare our baggage, and inftead of going round
with her by fea, we can put our things on
. board, and meet the veffel at Portfmouth.
I thall thus gain a few pleafant hours, among
my friends, which I had not anticipated ; and
{hall have time to provide myfelf with fuch
neceflaries as I may require, both for the
voyage, and the climate. Moft of the few
things which I had been able to hurry to-
gether, during the fhort moment allowed,
previous to my journey to Southampton, are
already rendered ufelefs to me, in confequence
of a fubfequent arrangement, requiring the
officers of the hofpital ftaff to appear in a
certain preferibed uniform. How will you
{mile to fancy your friend, who hath fo long
clothed himfelf in fable, like a very lobfter,
changed, all at once, to a gay fcarlet, and
fringed and embroidered with gold. Come
and fee him, and be affured that, whether he
be gay or fad, his coat bright or black, he is
always, faithfully, So ee fo ete yours,
28
LETTER ry
Author returns to Southampton. Deftination of the Ulyfes
reported to be changed. Expedition frill delayed. Author
vifits the theatre, and public rooms at allie Sine: The-
atrical Corps.
Southampton, Oc. 19.
SouTHAMPTON again? Yes, be not iur-
prifed! you perceive that I.am in a way to
be, early, initiated into all the fudden and un-
certain movements of a military life.
We came to this place en route to Portd-
mouth and Spithead, where we were to join
the Ulyffes, on her way from the river Thames
to Cove harbour; and we have now the fin-
gular comfort of being told that the deftina-
tion of this thip is changed, and that the is
not to go round to Cork, but to proceed, :
forthwith, to the Weft Indies, in company
with the Leeward Ifland divifion.
| Should this information prove to be cor= |
reét, or fhould not the fhip very foon réach
Spithead, Mafter and myfelf may be ordered
et
to Cork in fome other veflel, before fhe
arrives, and, in this cafe, we fhall have the
mortification of being compelled to proceed
to St. Domingo without our baggage, which
was put on board in the Thames: but our
inftructions ftill direct us to the Ulyfies, and
unlefs thefe fhould be, officially, counter-
manded, we fhall wait the arrival of that
fhip, confidering the information which has
been conveyed to us, only as idle rumour.
Every thing here is prefling forward with
all poffible difpatch, but to get fuch an im-
menfe expedition to fea, is a work of, infi-
nitely, greater magnitude than thofe who do
not think to the details of it can be aware of,
Probably it may be, yet, fome weeks before
the fleet can fail, notwithfanding all the ac-
tivity and exertions ufed to haften it. .
Should we be long detained, on fhore, I
fhall be mortified that we could not remain
at Southampton, which, in addition to the
many advantages of its fituation, is now in
high feafon, and as pleafant as Portfmouth is
reputed to be difagreeable.
30 {
You will admit that I avail myfelf of the
prefent moment, and neglect not the pafling
oceafion, when I tell you that, fince my re-
turn hither on the 16:h inftant, I have made
vifits to the environs of the town—rode.
through the foreft, and to the camp—paffed
two evenings at the theatre, and one at the
public rooms.
I am forry to remark, contrary to the
good order of Southampton, that, each of the
two nights, when I happened to vifit the
theatre, the tranquillity of the audience was
difturbed, the performance interrupted, and |
the whole houfe brought into a {cene of riotous |
confufion. The firft time, it arofe from fome
idle etiquette, which I could not exaG@ly com-
prehend, refpecting one of the actrefles com~
ing forward to announce her own benefit ;
and did not fubfide until, with great reluc-
tance, and after much delay, the, fubmiflively,
made her appearance. ‘The fecond time, it —
proceeded from a number of officers and '
other fpectators crowding upon the ftage fo
as to interrupt the performers; and only
ceafed, after much delay and confufion, by
| 31
Pl ofitheen! being aGually -hifled and, pelted
Off the ftage.
As it happens at ‘moft country places,
the theatrical corps confifts of a few tolerably
good actors, and many very bad ones: but,
upon the whole, the town feems fatisfied with
their performance, and at this moment of full
crowd, offers them great encouragement.
To-morrow I leave Southampton, and, in
a few days, fhall have the pleafure of addref-
the Wapping of England.
fing you from
32
LETTER V.
Author and his.comrades detained in fufpenfe at Portfmouth.
Objects commonly noticed by fivangers in and about that
place. Port{mouth different in time of war and of peace.
fHint that in peace it might be an economical retirement
for prodigals. Anecdote fhewing its extravagance in time
of war. Profligacy obferved upon the ftreets of Port/~
mouth. Defeription of thedrefs and perfon of a Portf-
mouth Poll.” Progrefs of a long abfent tar, upon landing
at Port/mouth. .Vifit to the dock-yard. Honourable ree
treat of Admiral Cornwallis. The Haflar hofpital. In-
tended military hofpitel at Gofport. Obliging attention of
Dr. Lind. Author addreffed by a bounty-man at thé
Haflar. The ramparts. Obfervations on the fad neceffity
of man fortifying himfeif againft the ravages of bis own
Speciese
Port{mouth, OG. 23.
No tidings of the Ulyffes! Four long days
have pafled away, fince my arrival at this
place, and I am fill, left im anxious un-
certainty refpe€ting my baggage, and my
paflage. |
My colleagues, Dogtors Mafter and Hen-
derfon, havé, again, joined me, and, like my-
felf, have pafled four heavy days of fufpenfe,
33
with only the profpect of extending it to
fourteen more. Being fadly tired of a Portf-
mouth inn, and feeing no profpect of foon
embarking, wé have taken private lodgings
in the hope of paffing, more quietly, our te-
-dious hours of waiting.
Portfmouth verifies, to our experience,
all that we had heard of its unpleafantnefs, and
vulgar immorality: The great objects, which
call forth the attention of flrarigers, are the
dock-yard, the Haflar hofpital, and the fine
walk upon the ramparts. All thefe we have
vifited, likewife South-Down caftle, and the
Forton and Porchefter prifons: nor have we
neglected that new modern meflenger the
telegraph, by which intelligence can be cone
veyed, from this place to the Admiralty, at
Gharing-crois, in the fhort period of ten mi-
nutes.
‘Having thus exhautfted all the novelty of
the town and its environs, it only remains
to us to lapfe into the dull round of the
place. It is faid that in days of peace, long
grafs grows upon the fireets, In time of
VOL. I. D
_
/
34
war they are more trodden ; but, even then,
the bufy activity of the place occurs only at
intervals, as when a fleet comes in, or is about
to fail: at which periods the town becomes
all crowd and hurry, for a few days, and then
fuddenly reverts to a languid intermiffien of
dullnefs and inactivity. aS
The rent of houfes and apartments—the
price of provifions, &c. differ very much in
times of peace and of war. Indeed, we are
told that the houfes, and lodgings, have their
war price, and their peace price, diftin@ly
fixed. Viewing its prefent extravagance, if
Port{mouth fhould be, proportionally, cheap
in time of. peace, as it is dear in war,
it might ferve as a place of retirement for
our prodigals, and render unneceflary their
tours of retrenchment to the mountains of
Wales, or of Switzerland:—and, perhaps,
there are few places that might fooner bring.
them to fober refleGtion ; for it is lifelefs and
infipid as the moft forlorn might defire, and
would feem well calculated to temper the
mind into the gloomy fedatenefs of peni-
tence: |... bi ae
i .
The following anecdote, faid to be of réa
éent occurrence, will exemplify, to you, wat
may be termed the war-extravagance of Portf-
mouth. A gentleman, who had been ill,
called on his way to Southampton, to dine.
at one of the inns, and having but a weak
appetite, ordered only 4 veal-cutlet, with a
pint of wine, for which he was charged
_ eighteen fhillings. Conceiving, there muft
be fome error, he defired to fpeak with the
landlord, who, inftead of conducting himfelf
with the civility of a perfon obliged by the |
preference given to his houfe, doubled the
offence by his infolence. Upon the gentle-
man telling him that he apprehended fome
miftake had occurred, refpedting the demand
made for his dinner, he looked at the bill, and,
“immediately, replied, “ Yes, Sir! there is a
miftake, I perceive.” Accordingly he took the
account back with him, into the bar, as the
gentleman fuppofed, to make the neceflury
deduGions—but, to his furprife, the waiter
quickly returned with it, increafed from ezgh-
teen to nineteen fhillings. |
The gentleman feeling enraged at the
va Dee
-impofition irfelf, and, more efpecially, at the
infolent manner of aggravating it, defired the
Jandlord might again be called, when he in-
formed him that if he, fill, infifted upon his:
enormous charge, he would publith it in all
the newipapers, and fet a mark upon his
hhoufe, which fhould. make it notorious
throughout London and the country: upon
which the impertinent hoft, fill perfifting °
in his demand, drily replied, ‘* And when |
you have made it fo well known, will you be —
fo good, fir, as to add, N.B. Lhe houfe to
dei'?’—There was no contending with fuch
infolence. The man had made his fortune—
and it was in vain to attempt to teach him
‘civility, good manners, or common honefty.
The gentleman, therefore, paid the bill, and
left the houfe, lamenting that his only, re=.
medy was—to avoid it in future, |
In refpecét to flreets, houfes, markets, and
traffic, Portfmouth is not unlike other country
towns, but Portfmouth-point, Portfea-com- —
mon, and fome other parts of the town have:
peculiarities which feem to fanétion the ce-
_ debrity the place has acquired. In fome quar-
e
sy
‘ters, Portfmouth is not only filthy and
crowded, but crowded with a clafs of low
and abandoned beings, who feem to have de-
clared open war again{t every habit of com-
mon decency and decorum. You know the
{trong defire I have to contemplate human:
nature, under all her varied forms, but thofe
‘fhe, here, aflumes, I am forry to tell you, Abc.
uncommonly, hideous and difgufting. . The
riotous, drunken, and plat {cenes of this
place, perhaps, exceed all others. Commonly
—grofs obfcenity and intoxication preferve
enough of diffidence to feek the concealment.
of night, and, afluming a kind of decency,
ftrive to hide themfelves from the public eye:
but, here, hordes of profligate females are
feen reeling in drunkennels, or plying upon
the ftreets in open day, with a broad im-
modetty which puts the great orb of noon to’
the Bluth. Thefe daughters of Cypria are
not only of manners peculiar, but likewife of:
fuch peculiar figure and apparel, that it were,
perhaps, dificult, in any other part of Eng-_
Jand,. to find a correct refemblance ta
ss ded Poll of Portfmouth. is
D3
38
To form to yourfelf an idea of thefe ten=.
der languifhing ny mphs—thefe lovely fighing
ornaments of the fair-fex, imagine a fome-
thing of more than Amazonian ftature, hav=
ing a crimfon countenance, emblazoned with
all the effrontery of Cyprian confidence, and
broad Bacchanalian folly: give to her bold
countenance the warlike features of two
wounded cheeks, a tumid nofe, fcarred and
battered brows, and a pair of blackened eyes,
with balls of red; then add to her fides a
pair of brawny arms, ft to encounter a Co-
loffus, and fet her upon two ancles like the
fixed fupporters of a gate. Afterwards, by
_ way of apparel, put upon her a loofe flying
cap, a man’s biack hat, a torn neckerchief,
ftone rings on her fingers, and a dirty white,
_or tawdry flowered gown, with fhort apron,
and a pink petticoat ; and thus, will you have
fomething very like the figure of a “ Portf:
mouth Poll.” .
Callous to every fenfe of fhame, thefe da-
ring objects reel about the fireets, lie in wait
- at the corners, or, like the devouring kite,
hover over every landing-place, eager to
aa.
pounce upon their prey; and each unhappy.
tar, who has the misfortune to fall under their
talons, has no hope of efcape till plucked of
every feather. The inftant he {ets foot on
‘dry land he is embraced by the neck, hugged
round the waift, or hooked in the arm by
one or more of thefe tender Dulcineas; and,
thus, poor Jack with pockets full of prize-
money, or rich with the wages of a long
and dangerous cruize, is, inftantly, dragged
. (though, it muft beconfeffed, not always againft
his confent) to a bagnio, or fome filthy
pot-houfe, where he is kept drinking, fmok-
ing, finging, dancing, {wearing, and rioting,
amid{t one continued fcene of debauchery, all -
day and all night, and all night and all day,
until his every farthing is gone. He is, then,
left to fleep till he is fober, and awakes to
return, pennylefs, to his fhip—with much
caufe to think himfelf fortunate, if an empty
- purfe be the worfe confequence of his, long
wifhed for, ramble afhore.
_ My vifit to the dock-yard was of a nature
highly gratifying. I contemplated this vatt
_ Gepot of ftores—this great workihop of our
Oo a | |
40
navy, as the emblem of our nation’s glory.
No part of it efcaped my eye. I regarded
each fpot with all the enthufiaftic ‘veneration
of a Briton, proud of his country’s greatnels,
and of the fplendid and heroic atchievements
of i its defenders. d
The Tigre, thip of war, lately taken from
the French, by Lord Bridport, being in dock,
we had the opportunity of going on board,
‘to witnefs the i injuries fhe had fuftained from:
the thunderbolts of Britain. Her fhattered .
condition befpake, in ftrong expreffion, the
terrible efie@ts of a clofe-fought ation at fea.
| Yet were we told that all the had fuffered
‘Was trivial, compared to what is feen,in many
vellels, after a battle. If fo, it is equally mat-
ter of furprife that fuch veffels fhould be kept
afloat, as that any fhould ever have been con-
firucted capable of witiftanding the deftruc-
tive batteries now brought againft them.
WV rhile examining the many wounds of -
the Tigre, my mind called up, in vivid affocia-
tion, the late noble retreat made by our gallant
admiral Cornwallis, which I have always
a
thought did him high and fingular credit,
Conduéted as it was, it had all the merit of
a great victory, and I well remember that, at
the fir moment of perufing the difpatches
concerning it, I was imprefled with a high
fenfe of that officer’s jad ement, and his valour,
and felt that I muft ever retain the higheft
refpea for his profeflional talents., To have —
defended an inferior fleet, againft fuch unequal _
force, and 'to have brought every fhip fafe
into port, argues a degree of intrepid deli-
beration, of addrefs, and of fteady valour,
which can only be found in a great com=
-mander. To have brought in the faft failing
veilels of the fquadron had been meritorious;
but to have dropped a{tern, with thefe, and
caufed them to bear the blows, in protection
of the flower veflels, whilft they made the
beft of the wind, and, thus, to have faved the
whole, wasdoubly honourable. It was great
and bold, and worthy the brother of our
brave and long efteemed Marquis, whofe high |
and well-appreciated talents are fo univerfally
-acknowledged, and fo increaled in fslendor,
by the humanity and benevolence cf his na-
ture. That two fuch diftinguifhed comman-
j
42)
ders, in the different branches of our fervice,
fhould be found in the fame farnily, is no
Jefs honourable to themfelves than gratifying
to their country. Of fuch men England has
juft caufe to be proud. Contemplating their
characters, I feel as a Briton, and partaking
of my country’s pride, could exclaim, Such
are Albion’s heroes—fuch her own legitimate
fons!
My vifit to Haflar hofpital was in keeping _
with that to the dock-yard. Connected with
our country’s greatnefs, it called up a fimilar
train of ideas, and I felt it an honor to Eng-
land that fo noble an inftitution fhould offer,
to our brave tars, the comforts required in.
ficknefs. Too much cannot be done for our
navy, nor can the provifion for our fick and
wounded defenders be too liberal; they merit
all their country can beftow. It has long.
been faid; and, affuredly, with great correct-
nefs, that Britifh failors are not only a bold,
but a peculiar race of beings: the fa& is
firiking, and although it were extremely dif-
ficult to defcribe their fingular charaéter, yet
may it be given in one fhort fentence, for—
43
they are a race of heroes! Fach im his caw -
4
pacity, and as far as the power of an indi-
ae
vidual extends, is a decided hero. Of fear he
only knows the name. Nothing fo delights
him as to be led into clofe combat; and, ra-
ther than be vanquifhed, he would fubmit to ;
_ die at his gun. That fuch men fhould be
liberally accommodated in their fufferings,
mui be congenial to the warmeft withes of
every Briton ; and to know that they are fo,
is confolatory to the feelings of all who are
fenfible of their value. It is due to their
courage and bravery, and is demanded from
their country’s gratitude. ,
The Haflar is, admirably, calculated, as
an afylum, for this important purpofe. The
eftablifhment is fplendid and liberal, and well
worthy its object; and, in, fo amply, providing
for her brave and fuffering defenders, Eng-
jand confults her beft interefts, while fhe
proves herfelf to be mindful of the high du-
ties of humanity.
Le Ee hofpital, like many others of this
ifland, from the grandeur of the edifice, might
x
from convenience, or neceflity, with to avail
themfelves of the benefit of the inftitution, —
may find every aid and comfort their fitua=—
~
44
be miftaken for a palace. It is built in an
open, airy fituation near the fea, at a fhort.
-diftance from Gofport. The fick are brought
in boats; from the fhips at Spithead, and, con-
veniently, received on fhore at a landing place
at the hofpital. This great building, fitted for
the accommodation of two thoufand patients,
torether with houfes for officers and the medi-
cal attendants, a chapel, a laboratory, a variety,
of offices, and thirty-eight acres of good paf-
ture land, belonging to the inftitution, is en-
clofed within a high brick wall, with iron-
gates, and a porters lodge at the entrance, -
which no ftranger is ‘permitted to pafs,
without the leave of one of the refident
lieutenants; or the porter firft announcing
his name to fome officer of the eftablith-
ment,
7
“Much to the credit of the country this”
noble afylum, likewife, offers apartments for
fick and wounded officers, where thofe who
tion demands, — : ooo
e 4s
Nothing neceflary to the eftablithment
has been omitted. It isa diflinét building, fe-
parated from all others, and, from poffeffing
every effential within itfelf, is as complete as
it is liberal, and does honor to the reign of
George II. who has the merit of being its
' founder.
The eftablifament confifts of a governor,
({ufually an old navy captain) three lieute-
nants, three phyficians, three furgeons, two
-vifiting apothecaries, a chaplain, an agent, a
fteward, and a difpenfer, with afliftants and
fervants in proportion to the number of.
fick. The hofpital accomodates one thoufand
eight hundred patients, conveniently, but it
fometimes happens that it receives as many
‘as two thoufand. This important eftablifh-
ment was founded in the year 1746, but was
ten years before it was completed, the patients
not being admitted until the year1756. The
expenditure, as may be expefted, from the
nature of the inftitution, differs very widely
-in different years, varying from 10,oool. to
upwards of 30,000l, per annum.
‘
46
A plan has lately been formed for eftablifh-
ing a military hofpital, likewife, in this neigh-
- bourhood, for the accommodation of our fick
and wounded foldiers. You will join me,I _
have no doubt, in withing that it may be at-
tended with every poffible fuccefs, and that
‘it may prove equally ufeful to our army, as
the Haflar to the navy. The building is al-
ready commenced, at Gofport, and it is ex-
pected to be in readinefs for the reception of -
patients next year, or, at the lateft, the -year —
following. - ay
At the Haflar, a high degree of order and
atrangement prevails, and all the regulations
of the eftablithment are duly obferved. The
hofpital is clean, well ventilated, and well
conducted ; and the benefit, intended, is re-
gularly and corredlly adminiftered, — |
But great and liberal as is the relief
held out, to the fick, by this {plendid infti-
tution, we are not to contemplate it in the
limited view of a mere afylum for thofe
who are, inane fuffering. Its object i is
47 |
far more extenfive. It may be faid to bethe
depot—the great and general receptacle of
maritime ficknefs, and the beft guardian of
our navy; for it not only offers a home to
the fick, but holds out the means of keeping
difeafe and infe@ion from our fleets. Every
fhip lying in harbour, or upon going out to
fea, has ‘the privilege’ of fending any of the
failors who may chance to be ill, to the Haf-
lar; a regulation founded in wifdom, and
fraught with great and manifold advantages ;
for, not only are the fick more fpeedily reco-
vered, but, by this excellent arrangement,
every fhip is made free from difeafe, and con-
tagion is prevented ; or, if it fhould already
exift, is kept from fpreading through the
veflel, or extending its direful effets to the |
ficet. Hence, from_the extenfive accommo-
dation of this admirable inftitution, and from
the ftri& rules of cleanlinefs and ventilation,
which are now obferved on board the fhips,
all apprehenfion is removed of great and
general ficknefs in our navy.
Dr. Lind, the fenior phyfician at the Haf-
Tar, politely offered his fervices, as guide and
43
conduor to us, in our round at the hofpital,
\
and we were much gratified in this oppor
“tunity of becoming known to him. But few
men could be found fo well calculated for the
fituation and appointment he holds. The
dogtor is not only a man of profeffional ta+
lents, but of great accuracy and fyftematie
arrangement. He, very obligingly, commu-,
nicated to us much information refpecting
the interior economy of hofpitals ; and, ftom
his remarks, we collected many ufeful hints, —
of which we hope to avail ourfelves on fer= |
vice. -From a perfon of fuch extenfive ex: |
perience, you may believe, that every word
was treafured, and we fhall be happy in the ©
opportunity of applying his obfervations to:
the benefit of the fick in our military hof-
pitals. |
Jn our walk through the Haflar, a man,
apparently a convalefcent, came up to me;.,
in one of the fever wards, and, accofting me.
ina firm tone of voice, without any preface,
defired. me to “ take care of my pockets.”
I heard him, without much furprife, fuppofing — :
him to be a convalefcent in the delirram of
a
49 |
fever ; when he quickly rejoined, “ take care
ble thief.”
This confirmed me im the idea fuggefted by
his firft addrefs: but I was foon undeceived
ef your pockets—for I’m ad
by the information that he was “ a bountye —
man,’ {ent by one of the parifhes, as a part
of the levy required to complete the manning
of the navy ; the parith officers having, thus,
availed themfelves of the opportunity of re=
lieving the parith from an unfortunate object,
who had long been a burthen to them, from
being in a ftate of infanity. But too many, it
is to be feared, have fought to fulfil the a@
by ferving their country with fuch-like contri-
butions.
I mentioned the ramparts as another ob-
_ je@ of our attention. Thefe form an agree-
able relief to the general heavinefs of the
town, by affording a lively and extenfive
_ view of the environs, including the fea, the
Ifle of Wight, and the Southampton river,
with the fleets at Spithead and St. Helen’s. |
| The works of a fortified town, being ©
eonfiderably elevated, ufually form a pleafant
VOL. I. E + :
50
promenade, and offer a commanding view of
the country adjoining. Could the mind di-.
veft itfelf of all idea of the unhappy caufe
which renders fuch barriers neceflary, they
might be regarded as the ornamental im-
provement of the place: but, too commonly,
gloomy refleGtions conne& with them, from
the contemplation of the cruel ferocity of
our nature, which requires that fuch defence
fhould be oppofed to thofe of our own fpe-
cies, and prevents mankind from aflociating
in the peaceful harmony of one great family.
That men fhould need to be thus protected
againft each other, is a melancholy refleGion,
and almoft amounts to a contradiction of all
the boafted advantages of our reafoning fa-
culty. The wild beafts of the foreft war, only,
from the calls of appetite, and even under
the powerful impulfe of hunger, dévour not
thofe of their own {pecies— but man! favage
.man! who boafts the exclufive faculty of
reafon, employs his talents to the deftru@tion
of his fellow. beings, and without even the
plea of the beaft of prey—that nature im-
pels him’ to it by the tae fhe baie given
him.
et
The fortifications of Portfmouth have
been, lately, extended to the part called Portfea,
by which they have aflumed a more formidable
afpe&t ; and although they are, even yet, more
calculated to guard againft a furprife, than to —
withftand the regular attack of a befieging
army ; ftill, from its foffes, its baftions, and _
its angles, this place wears more the appear-
ance of a, regularly, fortified town, than any
other of our ifland. But, happily, for Eng-
land, fhe has been fortified by a greater matter
than Vauban, Colbert, or any other engineer
of modern or ancient celebrity. The trident of
old Neptune has dug a deep foffe around her,
which Britons, of the prefent day, know how
to guard, as their beft defence, againft all the
fanguinary hordes of our fpecies.
§2
LETTER Vi.
Author receives inflructions to proceed to Cork in the Bridgem
water tranfport. Is offered an exchange from the St,
Domingo to the Leeward Ifland faff. LEmbarkation of
troops. Tempefluous Scenery at Port/mouth. Author vifits the
Circus. Adventure of a Briti/b tar at this theatre. Author
lodges at the Widow Butler’s. Is led into religious cantroe
verfy with his hofte/s. Obtains her blefjing, by ieee
a fimple food for her children,
Portfmouth, Odtober, 28.
Sri at Portfmouth, and the Ulyffes not
yet come round from the Thames ! Hender-
fon and myfelf have received orders not to
wait longer, but to ‘repair, immediately, on
board the Bridgewater tran{port, and pro-
ceed to Cork. . Of this veffel we do not hear
the moft happy report. She is very old, and.
we cannot fancy her fo fafe as the Ulyfles.
We, likewife, hear that the is, already, much ~
crowded with paffengers, and that we have
no profpect of obtaining, even, a tolerable
birth on board. But as I before remarked to
a 53
you, I am prepared for all I may have to en-
- counter, and refolved to meet whatever hap-
pens fans me plaindre.
Mafter has not received inftru€tions to
accompany us, and we lament the profpeét
of being fo foon deprived of his fociety. But
~ we have fome hope, that he may, again, join
us at Cork. Poffibly he may follow usin the
Ulyffes, and have the fatisfaction of not being
feparated from his baggage.
— - You will learn with furprize that, what J,
fome time ago, fought, in vain, is now offered
to my acceptance. One of the phyficians of
the Leeward Ifland ftaff, withing to go'to St.
Domingo, it has been propofed to me to.
make an exchange, giving him my appoint-
ment, and taking his. But my arrangements
are now fixed. Ihave a better knowledge
of things connecting with the fervice on
which we are deftined, and my baggage is,
already, on board a veffel bound for St. Do-
mingo :—if, therefore, my deftination be
altered, I can only know it officially, for
£3
54
circumftances no longer prompt me to a va~
Juntary exchange.
Some troops were embarked yefterday,
from this place. The weather was rough and
unfavorable. Such indeed has it, conftantly,
been, fince our arrival at Portfmouth,—always.
ftormy, and, at times, tempeftuous, From
this ftate of the weather we have had the
opportunity of feeing this great maritime
port to much advantage; a degree of gran-
deur being added to the fcenery, which, ina
more tranquil feafon, had not exifted. The
general movement and activity have been,
neceflarily, increafed. We have heard the
deep roaring of the billows, and have liftened
to the howling of the wind, and the beating
of the ftorm among the fhipping; the troubled
waves have dafhed, in heavy feas, upon the
land, or broke, with violence, againft the
rampart-walls ; boats and fhips have been fet
adrift, others have been driven from their
anchors and caft on fhore; and that degree
of the terrific, neceflary to the fublime, has
prevailed. But fublime and grand as it may
55
have appeared, you wiil believe that,-as we
are fo foon to be placed at the mercy of the
reftlefs and turbulent waters, the ideas ex-
cited, by this fcenery, have not been of the
moft happy nature.
A fort of relief to the dull round of Portf-
mouth has, lately, prefented itfelf,in a company
of equeftrians, who have opened a circus, or
theatre for horfemanthip, in the hope of amuf-
ing the public, at-more of profit than the bare
fupport of the riders and their horfes. But,
in this expectation, it feems probable, they
may be difappointed, efpecially, if their vifit
fhould be at all protracted.
To have difregarded this only amufement
of the place had been a great negle&t: buta
fingle vifit has exhaufted all our curiofity. Of
the f{pectators, no fmall proportion confifted
of failors, (drunk or fober,) and. the lovely
Cyprians I have before defcribed to you. The
low buffoonery of the clown, you may be-
lieve, was fuited to his audience, and, cer-
tainly, it was coarfe and vulgar as, even,
Portfmouth might defire.
E4
”
Perhaps I might fay that the beft part of
the entertainment proceeded from a jolly tar, |
in a fit of mirth, letting himfelf down from the
gallery, to fnatch off the fool’s cap,—which
he put upon his own head, and, ufurping the
place and charaéter of the clown, defired him
to “ budge,” for he was “ too great a fool to
keep the deck,” This introduced a very ludi-
crous {cene between Jack and the clown. The
clown met the adventure as mere failor’s fun,
bore it patiently, and, in his own way, en=
deavoured to turn it to the amufement of the.
audience: while Jack made many hits of
humor and drollery, and feemed not, alto-
gether, unworthy of the cap. For fome time
they maintained a very ridiculous and {portive
conteft, who fhould wear it, Jack repelling |
the rough wit and farcafm of the clown with
confiderable effe&. But, at length, the latter
obferving that “two fools” were “ too much
for fo genteel an audience,” abruptly feized the
cap from the head of the merry tar, and poor
Jack, thus deprived of necromantic influence,
reeled off the ftage, a mere drunken failor,
ftammering, by way of apology, “ D..d..
dammee, ladies and g...gentlemen, Pit Obra bue
’
/
57
Liged to sli, for tother’s " cei
fool. 99
From the time of our leaving the Foun-
tain inn I have lodged at the houfe of a wi-
dow, who proves to be a very ftrid difciple of
the zealous and bigotted Whitfield. This poor
woman has feveral children, who are brought
up in all the ferupulous tenets of their fect ;
and, it being a part of the fyftem to feek pro-
felytes, I am, fometimes, in my occafional’
conferences, betrayed into theologicai difcuf-
fions with my puritanical hoftefs. Moft
commonly they turn upon the hallowed doc-
trine of predeftination ; when the fcriptures
are turned, and twifted, and tortured, and
conftrued, and mifconftrued, in a variety of
ways, and in all the trite language, and ready
quotation of the fet, to exemplify the certi-
tude of this great and univerfal principle ;
which, to minds lefs biaffed, would only feem
to plead an excufe for all the bad paffions of
man, while it impeached the juftice of a be-
hevolent, all-wife, and all-merciful ruler.
But, as I, always, hold religion facred, and
58
venerate true devotion, under all the various.
forms aflumed by every clafs of its votaries,
however mifled, with regard to particular
tenets, I, fo far, fub{cribe to the merit of the
widow’s arguments as to quit the topic in
perfe&t harmony; although lefs imprefled
with the great truths, fhe fo fervently urges, _
than her zeal for the good caufe would lead
her to with.
I feel, however, the fatisfaGtion of having
obtained this poor woman’s efteem and grati-
tude: although, by a circumftance lefs {piritual
than religious obfervance ;—a concern, indeed,
wholly temporal, for it regards, fimply, the
body’s fupport! Finding, that fhe was often
at a lofs to contrive a convenient and cco-
nomical. dinner for her little brood, I hinted
to her the great utility of rice. In reply to
which fhe remarked, that the did often make
them rice-puddings, but that they were very
expenfive, and required much time and
trouble in preparing. She did not feem to
have any idea that rice, /imply boiled, could
be eaten, or that it could be regarded as food,
without the admixture of eggs, fugar, milk,
59
and fpices ; and, when I aflured her that plain
vice merely put into a bag and boiled, made
a very wholefome and nourifhing diet, the
{miled, and exprefled ftrong doubts of the
fa&: therefore, in order to convince her, I
defired that fhe would procure fome rice that
day for the children’s dinner, and let me in-
firuct her how to prepare it. She did fo,
with a fort of reluctance, believing that it
could not be good,—not eatable! I repeated
my affurances that fhe would find it an im-
portant article of diet, adding, that it was
predefined for her children to ufe it as a
~ principal part of their food.—This was a
clofe {pecimen of her own logic; and a little
flageered her: but the could not “ tell by
anticipation what was predeftined. Whatever
was would come to pafs.” This, the believed,
never could. She knew not what was to be;
but, like the moft zealous of the fed, referved
herfelf to judge the cafe of pre-ordination by
the event,
At dinner-time the rice appeared, and,
fortunately, it was well boiled. I defired them
to mix with it fome moift fugar and a {mall
piece of butter, and, giving fome of it to the
children, begged of the mother to leave it to
them todecide whether the predeftination Lhad —
. foretold was not about to be fulfilled. They
ate up, eagetly, what was given them, and
afked for more. The poor woman, likewife,
partook of it herfelf, and, to her great fur-
prife, found it to be, not only a good and
wholefome food, but very palatable, A fcene
of joy and happinefs fucceeded, which I wit-
neffed with the moft heartfelt fatisfaGtion ; and
I could not but take to myfelf the merit of
having done a good action :although it was
but the humble one of prefcribing a pudding
to a poor widow, and her tender babes !
The dear little ones clapped their hands,
and, in lifping accents, told their joy ; while —
the thankful parent relieved a heart, loaded
with gratitude, by exprefling a multitude of
acknowledgments, and praying Heaven, for
ever, to blefs me. ‘* Now,” faid the, “ I can
never be at a lofs for a pleafant, or a plentiful
meal, for my poor children:” and, on my
putting to her the queftion regarding my
prediction, fhe replied, that fhe was not only
61
fully convinced of the truth of it, but that fhe
further believed it had been predeftined by
the Almighty, that I fhould be fent, to lodge
in her houfe, to inftruct her how to provide,
for her infants, a fit and palatable food, which,
at all times, the might be able to procure.—
She devoutly offered thanks to Heaven, on
this happy event, which, fhe declared,
- brought, to herfelf and children, a degree of |
comfort, and of plenty, fhe had not dared to
expec.
If I at all know your heart, my friend,
however trivial it fhall feem to fome, this
will not be regarded, by you, as, merely, an
idle anecdote. You will envy me the blefling
of the widow Butler, and the fmiles of her
innocent babes.
a
LEDER:
Author goes to Spithead and St. Helen’s with Dr. Henderfotiy
in fearch of the Bridgewater tranfport. They return to
Port{mouth unfuccefsful. Violent florm on the 29th of
Oéiober. Lis effec? upon the minds of the common people.
Fleets detained by bad weather, and contrary winds. Sug
geftion that an approaching peace may prevent the expedi-
tion from proceeding to its defination. Credulity of a hypo~
chondriac lady, who afked a celebrated aE to tell her
the name of her malady.
Portfmouth, Odtober, at.
You, ro doubt, expefted that my next
letter would be addreffed to you from Cork,
and will be furprized to find that I am ftill at
Portfmouth :—but this is among the num-=—
berlefs uncertainties of my prefent calling.
Upon receiving our inflrutions to repair
on board the Bridgewater, Dr. Henderfon and
myfelf took a boat and went off to Spithead,
in the intention of joining her, but, after fail-
ing and rowing, amidft the fleets, there, and
at St. Helen’s, throughout, nearly, the whole
9 Ne
63
7 of the day, we, at laft, returned without being
able to find our Ship.
We haileda great number of veflels with
inquiries, but could not obtain any accurate
tidings of the Bridgewater. One had no
knowledge of her whatever ;—another knew
her, but could not tell where fhe lay ;—a
third had never heard her name. Some had
feen her, but faid fhe had ‘fhifted her birth ;
—fome thought fhe had dropped down to
St. Helen’s ;—fome believed fhe lay. at the
Motherbank,—and others underftood that fhe
had failed. Amidit all thefe contradictory
reports we could neither find the fhip, nor
learn any certain intelligence refpecting her:
hence, after a moft tirefome and fatiguing
round, and confuming nearly a whole day in
queft of the Bridgewater, it only remained
tous to return to Port{mouth, and, again, wait
for further orders.
Previous to going into the boat we had
been informed at the Tran{port-Office, that
_ the veffel, we inquired for, had received in- *
ftructions to fail without delay: it is there-
Vv
and one 6ab e
fore probable, that the might be getting under
weigh at the very moment we went off in
fearch of her. The following morning we
learned that fhe had, sili failed sis
Cork.
After the account I gave you, in my laft
letter, regarding. this fhip, you will not ima-
gine that our difappointment was very af-
flidting ;—and I, candidly, confefs that my
greateft uneafinefs, upon the occafion, pro-
- ceeded from our fickening tour in the boat.
The revived hope of feeing the Ulyfies, and
the profpe&t of regaining the fociety of our
friend Matter, held out to us more than a
compenfation for our toil. In the latter ex-
pectation we were fpeedily gratified ; but the
fatisfaction of greeting the Ulyfles fill le
mains in anticipation.
The weather continues to be very unfet=
tled.. It has been ftormy and tempeftuous
beyond all that is ufual, even, it the rougheft «
feafon of the year. On the 2gth inftant it
blew a perfect hurricane,—like what we read
of as, fometimes, happening in other countries,
65
but unlike all that we are accuftomed to wit-
nefs in England. Had the fleet been at fea
fomething very difaftrous would, probably,
have befallen it; but as the weather has fo
long been ftormy, we hope that the boifterous
heavens will have exhaufted themfelves before
the expedition fails.
. Between. ten and eleven o’clock, on the
morning of the 29th, a tremendous gale began.
to blow. The fky blackened. The tumid
clouds rolled in heavy mafies, darting forth
uf quick lightning, followed by loud burfts of
thunder. The tearing gufts of wind brought
with them violent fhowers of hail, and de-
luging torrents of rain. The whole elements ©
feemed to be moved in ore convulfive effort.
The vivid lightning traced its path in broad.
and fiery flafhes, and the terrific thunder
inftantly followed, as if raging to over-
take them. At one inftant it rolled in op-
preffed and convulfive found, feeming to
ftruggle againtt fome great impediment that
confined it to the clouds, and, at the next, it
burft forth, in full explofion, as though a
match had, fuddenly, fired the whole ordnance
VOL. I. Ff
66
of heaven. Hailftones, of uncommon magni-
tude, beat down with a force and rapidity, as
if contending which fhould firft reach the
earth: and {carcely had they fallen, before
the {weeping violence of the, wind forced
them into heaps like deep-drifted fnow ; in
which ftate they remained for hours after the
ftorm ; nothwithftanding the’ heavy torrents
of rain which followed them.
The houfes were fhaken, to a dangerous.
degree, by the exceflive force of the tempeft.
The loud ocean rolled in tremendous feas,
and broke, in ruptured mountains, on the
fhore. . Many of the fhips were driven from
their anchors; fome were difmafted; others
caft away ; and boats, fet loofe by the ftorm,
were {fwallowed up by the troubled waters,
and afterwards vomited, by the expelling
throes of the fea, upon dry land. ©
Thé hollow found of the wind, and the.
heavy beatings of the hail and rain,. through
the thick foreft of fhipping lying in the har-
bour, together with the tremendous dafhings _
of the fea, and- the troubled motion of the _
* ee
~~
of
Ags
—
67
veffels, upon its reftlefs furface, all combined to
render the {cene greatly awful ; but too high
a degree of the terrific was intermixed with
it, for the fpeCtator to regard its grandeur and
fublimity in quiet contemplation. —To convey
any juft idea of it would require the pen of
a Milton, or a Shakefpeare.
Great and general alarm prevailed, efpe-
cially among the lower orders of people; in
whofe minds a fearful affociation was excited,
which carried them, infinitely, beyond the
probable injuries to be expected. They ran,
trembling, into the remoteft corners of their
houfes, uttering loud bewailings, and fearing
_ that fome dreadful vifitation of the Almighty
Was upon them, and that He, in his wrath,
was about to punifh their fins, by the de-
ftruction of the town, and its wicked inha-
bitants. Nothing was heard but the howl-
ings of the tempeft. In all other refpecs
a dread ftillnefs reigned. No living thing
was feen upon the ftreets; and all around
feemed hufhed in the filent paufe of con-
fternation.
F2
68
When the violence of the ftorm had a.
little abated, and the rays of light began to -
iflue through the broken clouds, the trembling
- mulutude ventured forth, and, aflembling in
groups at the door-ways, relieved their ap-
ptehenfions by relating them to each other,
in the reftored comfort of mutual intercourfe.
At this moment I could not but remark
the flriking effet of that great and leading
feature of our nature,—the focial principle.-
Had thefe people remained alone, hidden in
the corners of their houfes, their fenfe ofalarm |
had, probably, continued much longer; but
they derived manifeft relief from communi-
cating with each other; and the very a&
ef relating their fears infenfibly difpelled
a
them.
Having much curiofity to hear their
remarks, and to obferve their expreflions of |
terror, I mixed with thefe aflociated groups,
and found that their apprehenfions had been
great and various. Some had magnified the
ftorm into an earthquake, fent to deftroy them.
Others had believed it to be a hurricane, which |
69
would bury them in the ruins of the town.
Many had imagined they were to be fwal-
lowed up by the fea, which threatened the
place in huge and loud-roaring billows.
Some, widening their fears to the whole ex-
tent of our ifland, confidered the awful {cene
as an omen to the Parliament (which was to
meet this day), to warn them againft perfift-
ing in a “ cruel and bloody war;” others,
looking to the immenfe fleets preparing for
our expeditions, believed the whole about to
be fwallowed up, becaufe their employment
was wicked; and all feemed to regard the
tempeft as a f{courge, intended to punifh the
vices, and chaftife the follies of mankind.
Whilft every one contemplated the event
as of vaft and mighty import, bufy imagina-
tion had tortured their individual fears into a
~ thoufand forms. One worthy dame had felt
the earth fhake under her; another faw the
whole ftreet move; the olfactories of a third
had perceived fulphureous fumes iffuing from.
below, and fome had even heard the church
and other buildings falling into the opened
P3
7° ;
chafms, and crafhing amidft the fhattered
_ bowels of the earth. Thefe fecret terrors, you
will believe, fubfided with the ftorm; yet
all, in fobereft reafon, vowed they had never
known the like before.
The injuries done were lefs than might
have been expected. Some of the thips and
boats neceflarily fuffered ; a few houfes were
unroofed; and, amidft the devaftation, the
windmill, at Gofport, was blown to the
ground. It was, at firft, faid that many lives
were loft,—but, happily, we do not find this |
report confirmed. |
The Weft-India fleet, the fleet for Gib-
raltar, and the Channel fleet, are all detained
by tempeftuous weather and contrary winds :
and there are fome among us who, from the
pacific tendency of the King’s fpeech, and
other circumftances, which they imagine to
be favorable, would perfuade themfelves that
our great expedition will never fail; or, that,
if it fhould get under weigh, negociations for
peace will prevent it from reaching the Weft-
71
Indies, I dare not hazard an opinion upon
this fubje&. What fay you Poaugians of
London refpecting it?
But I have fomething to tell you more
amufing than ftorms, and fleets, and troubled
feas. You will remember our occafional
converfations refpecting the numberlefs perils
and dangers that derive, to the public, from
the licenfe afforded, in this country, to every
idle and impudent boafter of empirical re-
medies for the cure of difeafe ; and, without
any violent furprize, you will place the fol-
lowing fat among the hoft of abfurdities
which daily meet your eye and your ear.
A phyfician, whom [had the pleafure of
converfing with yefterday evening, was, fome
time ago, called to vifit a patient who was,
wretchedly, afflicted with hypochondriafis.
She had long been under the care of the foi-
difant and celebrated Docfor-——and had
{wallowed of his all-healing, all-reftoring, all-
{trengthening, and never-failing cordial as
much as had coft her ¢qwo-and-twenty guineas.
Still fhe was more and more low, dy{peptic,
F 4
72
and hypp’d; and her poor flatulent ftomach
was, cruelly, annoyed with the repeated po-
tions, of this zzfallible fpecific. At length,
after enduring the door, and his remedy,
through a moft tedious trial, and finding no
relief, fhe grew impatient to know, decidedly,
the nature of her malady, and, at one of her
vifits to the dodfor, pointedly importuned
him to tell her the veal and true name of her
difeafe: when this gveat man, finding that
his patient was urgent, and that he was un-
able, any longer, to evade the queftion, af-
_ fumed a dignified and important air, and,
with great gravity, made known to her his
great opinion that fhe had’ Si. ore eee
“ a great fire in the bones!” ‘The poor burn-
ing lady, in all fullnefs of faith, gave credit
to the fiery tale, and, in the true fenfe of a
hypochondriac believer, felt that not only her
bones, but her whole frame was rapidly con-
fuming. Unhappily for ¢éc doéor, the foon
after difcovered that taking his never-failing
balfam was only adding fuel to her fire; and,
at laft, upon turning to the new {papers fhe
found that, in the long lift of maladies to be
cured by this omnipotent remedy, the door,
72
alas! had forgot to promife that it fhould
extinguifh the “ fire in the bones;” upon
which fhe abandoned. both cordial and door,
and applied for relief to the phyfician, who
_amufed us with the hiftory of the cafe.
74+
LETTER VII. |
— Author and his colleagues joined by Dr. Cleghorn. Doétors
— Mafter, Cleghorn, and the author cotemporaries at Edin-
burgh, and fellow-pupils of Guys and St. Thomas's.
Author and his comrades, joined by Mr. Nicholl, again vifit
the Dock-yard, Haflar Hofpital, and Forton Prifon. Vi-
ciffitudes of war exemplified in the cafe of a French pri-
jouer.
Portfmouth, Nov. 8.
Our of evil, it-is faid, fometimes fpringeth
good: and I feel affured that you will agree
with me, in confidering the adage verified,
when I tell you, that the repeated delays to
which we have been fubjeéted have proved
the means of completing our party, by con-
verting our harmonious trio into a {till more-
focial quartette :—a circumftance which has
happened from our being joined by Dr.
Cleghorn, who is now arrived, at this place,
on his way to join the St. Domingo hofpital
fiaff. He is a pleafant, well-informed man,
and of good profeffional abilities ;—is brother
to the profeflor of anatomy at the Univerfity
75
of Dublin, and nephew to the celebrated
author on the difeafes of Minorca. His fo-
ciety is a great acquifition to us, and we are
much gratified in having fuch an agreeable
addition to our party.. We now look, more
anxioufly than ever, to the arrival of the
Ulyfles, in the hope of being allowed to efta-
blith a pleafant mefs for the voyage.
On the day of Dr. Cleghorn’s arrival at
Portfmouth, it happened that he met me
- walking in the ftreet, when, without any in-
troduction, he direCtly accofted me by name;
and, on my feeming furprized, at being fo
addrefled by a ftranger, he remarked that my
face was very familiar to him, from having
feen me often at the clafles in Edinburgh:
upon a further eclairciflement, it proves that
Mafter, Cleghorn, and myfelf were cotempo-
raries, though not acquainted, at Edinburgh ;
and that we were all pupils at Guy’s and St.
Thomas’s in London. We are now met again,
under circumftances calculated to create a
durable intimacy, and we hope to remain af-
fociated, until the calls of fervice fhall require
our unwilling feparation.
76
I have alfo the pleafure of finding myfelf
further relieved from the dulnefs of Portf
mouth, by the fociety of my friend Mr. Ni-
choll, who is juft arrived here, in order to
proceed to the Weft Indies, with the expedi-
tion, but, on a much pleafanter fervice than
ourfelves, viz. that of taking poffeffion of
fome eftates, lately left him as a legacy, in
the ifland of St. Vincent ; and from which he
has the profpedt of obtaining an income of
feveral thoufands per annum, |
With our newly-arrived friends we have
repeated our vilits to the Dock-yard, the Haf-
lar Hofpital, and the Farton Prifon. The
wounded and fhattered Tigre again arrefted
our attention. We alfo went on board. the
Bellerophon, and an immenfe fhip now
building, which is intended to carry i i
of a hundred guns.
At the prifon we met with a ftriking
example of the numerous and fudden viciffi~
tudes to which perfons are liable, who are
expofed to the hazardous chances of war,
Obferving among the prifoners, an officer”
77
who had loft his right arm, we were led to
afk fome queftions refpeCting him, when we
learned that he was the very lieutenant who
took poffeflion of our thip of war the Alex-
ander, at the time fhe fell into the hands of
the French ; and that he had, afterwards, been
taken in one of the fhips captured by Lord
Bridport’s fleet, and had loft his arm in the
action. Thus the man, who, but a fhort time
ago, rejoiced in victory, is now humbled by
defeat, and has the fad mortification of being
confined a prifoner, with the lofs of a moft
important limb, and the melancholy profpe&
of being a cripple throughout the remainder
ef his life. | |
LETTER” Ix.
Author and his comrades embark on board the Ulyffes at Spit-
head. Report of the expedition being about to fail. Con
Jequent hurry and confufion. Scramble for provifons.
Author and his comrades buy a giblet pie upon the ftreet,
hot from the oven. Embarkation feene at Portfmouth.
Author's account of having witneffed a fimilar fcene at
‘Geneva, but of a nature and extent far more afflitting.
Condué? of an emigrant marquis upon that occafion. -Re-
ception of the author and his comrades on beard the Ulyfes.
Proceedings of the firft night on board.
Spithead, Nov. 12.
"is alee from the Ulyfles! Our fufpenfe
is, at length, relieved. ‘The day after I laft
wrote to you,, our long looked for Ulyfies
arrived, with a fieet from the Downs, and
yefterday, Henderfon, Mafter, Cleghorn, and
myfelf, took our births on board, finding
Mafter’s: and my baggage ftowed in ane
fafety.
We left Portfmouth in a grand fcene of
hurry and confufion, in confequence of it
being reported, on the arrival of the fleet
a,
from the Downs, that every fhip, belonging
to the expedition, was to fail, without further
delay; thofe of the Leward ifland divifion
for Barbadoes, and thofe of the St. Domingo
_divifion for Cork. The tranfports, with
troops from Southampton, happening to drop
down the river at the fame time, to rendez-
vous at the Motherbank and Spithead, feemed
to confirm the report ; and fuddenly, all was
converted into extreme hurry and activity.
Multitudes, both frem the newly arrived fhips,
and thofe which had been long waiting,
_ thronged on fhore to purchafe provifions and
{tores, to complete their ftock for the voyage.
Many, who had paffed their hours of ful-
_penfe in the town, had alfo their marketings
to make; and hence the demand becoming,
fuddenly, greater than the fupply, it intro-
duced all the confufion of a general fcramble.
Each feized upon whatever provifions he
could find, afking no queftions, but paying
any money that was demanded.
_ Not aware of the tumultuous preffure of
fuch a moment, and confidering ours to be
enly a fhort paffage, we had, purpofely, de-
Kaa
80
layed purchafing our meat, bread, and other
_ frefh provifions, until we fhould be certain
that the fhip, in which we were to make the
voyage, was arrived. But, fhould we proceed
to fea, immediately, and the voyage be at all
protracted, we fhall be reduced, by this ne-
gle&, to falt food, and the fhip’s allowance;
for, in the general fcramble, we were unable
to obtain what we wifhed, and were com-
pelled to repair on board with a very de-
ficient fupply. |
All the butchers’ and bake fhops were
quickly emptied. Not a loaf, nora bit of meat, |
not even acarrot, nor a cabbage remained, and
many went empty away. Neither porters
nor fervants were required, but every one, |
who was iuccefsful enough to put his hand
upon any provifions, gladly became the
bearer of his own load. To fhew you the
extremity to which we were reduced, I may
tell you that our party ftopped a man, upon
the ftreet, who was carrying home a large
giblet pie, hot from the oven, which we
tempted him to let us take on board, by of-
fering, for the pie and the dith, more than
Si
'. doublethetr value—or indeed any money he
might demand.
+ 'Toan unconcerned fpeétator it muft have
been a moft ludicrous and diverting fcene,
and fuch as might have afforded full fcope to
_ the all-animating pencil of Hogarth. We
were too. intimately affociated in what was
pafling, to view it only with an eye of.
amufement. Still I could not but remark the
oddity of the affemblage, and the varied ex-
preflion of countenance, as actuated by hope, ©
joy, difappointment, hurry, and anxiety.
Military and naval officers, paflengers, fer-
-vants, foldiers, failors, boys, women, and ne-
groes, all crowded together upon the ftreets,
_ formed: one heterogeneous mafs—one great
and motley groupe, of which every part was
in bufy motion—each perfon feeling the ap-
prehenfion of being left behind.
From the multitudes of anxious heavy- |
Jaden individuals who were feen running with
their burdens down to the hoats, and fcram-
bling to embark, it might have-appeared to
‘a ftranger, that the inhabitants of Portfmeuth
‘VOL, I. G
82
were making one great effort to carry off all
the provifions, ftores, and furniture of the
town, previous to evacuating it to the poffef-
fion of an enemy. One hurried off with —
legs and fhoulders of mutton, another with
half a fheep, a third with a huge piece of
beef, and others with different joints of. veal
or pork. Here wasaman running with a
cheefe, there one with a fugar-loaf. Others
were fcampering away loaded with rice, or
papers of groceries. Some ran off with bags
of bread, fome with bafkets of greens, po-
tatoes, carrots, turnips, and the like. Many.
were feen bending under heavy bundles of
' clothes, wet from the wafh; others loaded
with camp-ftools, deal-boxes, fea-coffers,
pewter utenfils, and various other kinds of
ftores; and, amidft the throng, ourfelves with
the {moking giblet pie, and fuch other pro-
vifions as we had been able to procure. Every
- one was upon the alert. Neceflity made all
induftrious, and, without any idle or fcrupu-
lous obje€tions, each was glad to minifter to
his own wants.
Intermixed with the bufinefs of this
83
anxious fcene, were many other circumftances
which increafed the general crowd and con-
fufion of the picture; fuch as multitudes
prefling into, and overflowing the fhops—
people running againft, or tumbling over each _
other upon the ftreets—loud difputes and
quarrelling—the fadnefs of parting —greet-
ings of friends, unexpectedly met, and as
fuddenly about to feparate—failors quitting
their trulls — drunkards reeling — boatmen
- wrangling—boats overloaded or upfet—the
tide beating in heavy {prays upon the fhore— |
perfons running and hurrying in every di-
rection, for fomething new, or fomething
forgot—fome curfing the boatmen for not
pufhing off with more fpeed, and others be-
feeching and See them to ae a minute
longer.
Such was the ftate in which we left Port
mouth, after a refidence of three weeks, du-—
ring which time we had regarded it as a dull
inanimate place ; but the change was fudden,
and will be only tranfient: the hurry and
tumult will vanifh with the failing of the
fleet, and the town will relapfe into its tran-
G2
84
quil famenefs, until the rasiipnide of a fimilar
occafion,
This troubled moment of fcramble and
confufion called to my remembrance a fcene,
‘ not unlike it, but upon a far greater fcale,
which J had witneffed at Geneva, at the time
when the French general Montefquiou, after
taking the town of Chamberry, marched his
army againft that city. This was a period
of uncommon intereft, and it has ftamped an
indelible impreffion upon my mind. Having
made a long tour through Holland, the Pays-
bas, Germany, Switzerland, and Savoy, my
brother and fifter, and myfelf had propofed
making the vicinity of Geneva our refting-
place, during the autumn months, and, with
this view, we had taken up our refidence at.
the village of Copet, near that city, in a cot-
tage, built upon the very brink of its enchant-
ing lake.
, From our windows we, at once, com-
manded, perhaps the grandeftlandfcape,and the -
fublimett picture in nature. An expanfe of
water thirty-fix miles in length, fix in breadth, _
85
and as bright as cryftal, was immediately be-
fore us. Near to us, at the upper extremity
. of this fine fheet of water, appeared the city
- of Geneva, encompaffing the end of the lake |
in femilunar form. Upon its fides were feen -
many villages, towns, and country villas,
diftributed amidft verdant fields, or luxuriant |
vineyards. At the diftance of a few miles,
on the left fhore, was the celebrated town of |
Laufanne, with the towering mountains of
Jura, which divide Switzerland from France;
and before us, on the oppofite coaft of the
lake, rofe the gigantic Alps of Savoy, proudly
elevating themfelves, in three vaft ranges,
afpiring to the very fkies, and {carcely leav-
ing a {pace between the earth and heaven,.
The firft rife, gradually, behind the beautiful
villas and vineyards bordering the lake, and
are covered, to the top, with cattle and green
herbage; thofe of the fecond range, tower
_above thefe, and appear, at the diftance of
from ten to twenty miles, in rugged pyramids
of naked rock ; and the moft remote, which
crown all the others, are feen above the
glouds, at the diftance of forty or fifty
G 3
86
miles, appearing in huge fummits of ice and
fnow. |
Here we had hoped to fojourn during
the autumn, enjoying thefe fineft fcenes of
nature, placed, as it were, beyond the broils of
_a difordered world: but it was not permitted
us, quietly to lull in nature’s lap, or, thus, to
reft embofomed in her fofteft couch. Too
foon wide-{preading violation reached this
peaceful retreat, and the maniacal fever of
change, which fhook the globe, fuffered not
this heavenly {pot to efcape.
Under the protection of a neutral republic,
and believing themfelves fecure in this foul-
enchanting retirement, many of the unhappy —
and perfecuted emigrants, from France, had
taken refuge in this moft delightful neigh-
bourhood, hoping to reft in quietnefs, and,
peacefully, deplore their country’s woes ; but
the infe€tious revolution, which now {preads
its poifon abroad, refpedts neither perfons nor
places. No eftablifhment, however. ancient
or facred, is fecure againft its peftiferous in-
87
fluence. It rages wide and wild, and, like a
ferocious beaft of prey, feems only eager to
- devour and deftroy.
At an early hour of the morning, long
previous to the ufual moment of perfons being
allowed to enter the city, crowds of diftrefled
and terror-ftruck emigrants, flying from the -
adjacent country, thronged to the Chamberry
gate, to feek protection within the walls, re-
porting that the French army had feized the
town of Chamberry, and was proceeding
againft Geneva,
The news was unexpected as alarming,
and the fudden apprifal introduced a {cene of
terror and confufion not to be defcribed. An
univerfal confternation prevailed. ‘The emi-
grants expected to be maflacred if they fell
into the hands of their implacable foes; and
the ariftocratic party of the inhabitants looked
to nothing but plunder, indignity, and in-
fult.
A general council was called, and it was
ietolved to demand the Swifs fubfidy of
C4
og) -
ie)
troops to defend the city. In the mean
time feveral of the fenators deemed it prudent
to embark fuch of their property as could
be conveniently moved; and the whole
body of emigrants haftened, without delay,
to feck their fafety in the more independent
territory of Switzerland. Of the inhabitants
alfo, great numbers faw no fecurity but in
quitting the town ; and many, who remained,
held it prudent to fend away their wives and
families.
The fcene which followed was not unlike
what we have, lately, witneffed at Portfmouth,
_ but more general, and of a nature infinitely
more afflicting. Indeed the fudden panic
that overfpread the place, together with the
alarm and confufion of the emigrants, begat —
a day of horror and diftrefs, which might
have drawn compaffion even from the tigre= _
hearts of thofe who caufed it. : |
- Penetrated with every fearful apprehen-
fion, multitudes abandoned their property, and
ran from the city to efcape, only, with their
lives; regardlefs whither they wandered, or
89
what path they took, fo it but led to a place
of fafety. Others taking what property they
could with them, crowded into boats upon
the lake, in order to proceed, by water, to
the Cantons of Switzerland. Many hurried
-away on horfeback, others in coaches, carts,
waggons, or any fort of conveyance they
could find. Every fpecies of carriage, of.
whatever fhape or ftructure, was feized and
driven away with more than a double load.
- . Unhappily a new fource of diftrefs arofe,
from an obftacle which the terrified multitude
had not anticipated. The little town of Ver-
foy, fituated upon the weftern border of the
lake, is within the territory of France, and the
frightened multitude, in purfuing the public
route to Switzerland, which leads through
this place, met with guards of military “ le-
_vellers” ftationed upon the ftreets, and upon
different parts of the road, who ftopped every
perfon, and every carriage, under pretence of
fearching for emigrant, or contraband pro-
perty. But thefe new comptrollers of the road
—this new fpecies of highway robbers, fanc-
tioned by that odious badge of “derty, the
go
national uniform, having, in compliance with
the fyftem and principle of the revolution,
fubdued all the antiquated prejudices of con-
fcience, ftole and plundered without referve.
The law of force being their only rule of
juftice, they found no difficulty im attaching
the term “ émigré” to whatever they defired
to poffefs. If emigrant property was found,
it was toffed out upon the open road; the
packages emptied, and whatever was valuable
taken away: and thofe perfons who were
difcovered to be emigrants, were, further,
robbed of their thoe-buckles, knee-buckles,
ear-rings, and the like, and fubjected to every
low and degrading infult that could aggravate
their misfortune, or augment the diftrefs of
their retreat. For more than a mile, between
Verfoy and Geneva, the road was ftrewed
_ with interrupted carriages—with trunks,boxes,
imperials, and other packages, expofed to the
rough examination, and the plunder of thefe,
Jri-difans, fons of freedom, Whole trains of
carriages were thus detained for many hours,
~ and others were not fuitered to proceed. '
-Maultitudes of perfons — of the rade
om
infpection to which thofe in advance were
fubjected, returned, before they reached the
firft {tation of French troops, hoping to make
. their efcape, with lefs difficulty, by water.
- But in this they were not lefs unhappy, for
the freedom of the lake was alfo violated.
The tri-coloured marauders of Verfoy, ob-
ferving a crowd moving upon the water, fent
out four boats, and ftationed them acrofs the
_lake, with inftruGiions to intercept every vef-
fel that fhould attempt to pafs; and inter-
ruption and plunder prevailed, equally, upon
the land and the water.
The whole town was now at the highett
point of diftrefs ; boats, carriages, and vehi-
cles of every defcription were crowding back,
both from the road, and the lake; the French
army was faid to be actually on its march from
Chamberry ; and, ftill worfe, from the demo-
cratic part of the citizens being diffatished
with the decifion of the council, refpeCting
the Swifs troops and the defence of the city, :
the place was threatened with inteftine com- —
motion. No one felt fafe in the town, yet.
none could efcape from it, without injury or
92
infult—The moment was awful as perilous.
Confternation was feated upon: every brow.
The ftreets were crowded with parties, each
fufpeéting the other’s defigns; and from the
more violent and diforderly calling aloud,
“ Point de Suiffes—Point de Suiffes,” it was
to be apprehended that fome dreadful can-
vulfion might enfue,
In this alarming ftate of the city the
council was again aflembled, and, in order
to appeafe the difcontented, it was refolved
that fome ftep fhould be taken to evince the
amicable difpofition of the government of
Geneva, towards the republic of France. A
decree was accordingly pafled, that the French
refident at Geneva, who had not been ac-
knowledged fince the memorable t1oth of
Auguft, fhould be recognifed, as envoy of the
French republic, and that he fhould be. re-
quefted to proceed to general Montefquiou, _
commanding the French army, with aflur-
ances of friendfhip from the council and peo-
ple of Geneva.
This, in fome degree, quieted the diffatif-
>
- fied citizens: but ‘ Point de Suiffes—Point de
Suiffes,” continued to be occafionally heard.
The council, however, did not abandon the
decree of calling in the Swifs levy, but re-
ferved all further proceedings, until they
fhould receive the anfwer of general Montef-
quiou,to the friendly communication conveyed
through the medium of the French refident.
In the mean time, as the whole town felt
indignant on account of the freedom of the
lake being infringed, an armed veflel was
difpatched to aflert the rights of the ftate of
Geneva; and to infift upon the free and un-
interrupted paflage of all vellels going from
the city. The remonftrance fucceeded, and
no further obftacle being oppofed, every boat,
barge, and fkiff—every veflel that could carry
an oar or a fail, was, immediately, employed,
and the general hurry and confufion were ten-
_ fold increafed. Anxious multitudes thronged
on board, and the crowded boats were in
danger of being upfet, or funk to the bottom.
From the diftrefs and extreme peril nicks
intermixed with, and augmented the confufion
15
94
of this difaftrous period, it was rendered
highly afflicting. Not only the peace and
property, but the lives of numbers were at
hazard. ‘To go off in the boats, crowded as
they were, was extremely dangerous; but
. ftill greater peril awaited longer delay.
Hence, at all rifks, thofe who could poffibly
find place, ventured themfelves afloat, and,
quickly, we faw, from our window, as it
were, a whole town moving upon the water.
Among the crowd that appeared before
the city gates early in the morning, as well
as among thofe who left their homes, to
efcape from the town, were groupes of the
various defcriptions of young and old, male
and female, rich and poor, polifhed and vul-
gar, all confounded, pall-mall, together. Act-
ing from the fudden impulfe of terror, many
thought only of the fafety of their perfons ;
and fome, in their hafte and anxiety to efcape,
ran off without hats or fhoes—fome without
_ caps or bonnets. Few, indeed, were enough
gollected to regard either propriety or orna-
ment of drefs. The countenances of all
befpake more important concern; but their »
39
feelings were differently depicted, and fo
great was the motley variety of the throng,
that had the occafion been lefs painful, the —
whole fcene might have appeared as a ludi-
crous fpeétacle. But all the circumftances
connecting with it, were fo ferious and affli@-
ing, that every feeling of levity, which might
have arifen from the various incidents of the
moment, was abforbed in the general emotion
_ of compaffion for the fufferers,
Both the fympathy and aftonifhment of
the town were excited, in a peculiar manner,
towards an unfortunate old lady, nearly
eighty years of age, who had heard the
alarm in the night-time, and, in order to
fave her life, had hurried away on foot, from
her place of refidence, and had been com-
‘pelled to walk many miles to reach Ge-
neva; where fhe appeared, amidft the terri-
‘fied crowd, before the hour at opening the
city gates.
Very different was the fenfation created
by the misfortune, or rather_by the condud,
under misfortune, of a frivolous marquis—a
96
petit maitre who was driven back to the town
_ by the rude boat-infpeftors from Verfoy. A
party of Englifh who had been acquainted
with this emigrant, during his refidence at
Geneva, wifhing to affift him in his efcape to
the Cantons, had offered him the proteétion
of their boat. But the fans-culottes fearchers
i =ageicealaea atts
of the veffel, finding their ex-countryman on. .
board, minutely infpefted every package,
plundering the marquis of his, and detaining
much of what belonged to his kind pro-
tectors ; but, worft of all, they robbed the un-
happy marquis of his fhoe-buckles, his knee-
buckles, and—his beloved ear-vings ! and then
obliged him and the party to return, not fuf-
fering the veffel to pafs on account of having
an emigrant on board. Upon landing from
the boat, this infignificant fribble ran to my
brother and myflelf in loud bewailing, forget- _
ful of the greater lofs of his bageage, -and
that his life was full in danger, and lament-
ing only 66 Jos cheres boucles d oreilles l
“OQ! Meffieurs,” cried the wretched fop,
“¢ Les vilains republicains ont volé mes boucles
d’oreilles. Les gueux! Les voleurs! Les
\
97
énragés democrats! Ils ont volé mes cheres
!
boucles d’oreilles! Helas! qu’elles etoient belles!
qu’elles etoient fuperbes! O! pourquoi faut il
que je les aie perdues! Les voleurs! Les co-
quins! Pourgoi faut il qu’ils m’ayent vol¢ mes
boucles d’oreilles!’’ All his concern: all his
anguith feemed tocentreinthefe idle ornaments
-—thefe effeminate appendages of his ears.
’ I need not explain to you the emotion
created in our minds by the poor marquis’s
griefs. Such ineffable frivolity, exhibited at
a moment of the heavielt affli@ion, could not
but render its object contemptible. But as
foon as the bitter calamity of lofing his ear=
drops would allow him to think of his. per-
fonal fafety, we, in compaffion to his misfor-
tunes, affifled in conveying him, by means
of a fmall private boat, to the oppofite fide
of the lake, where we put him-on {hore upon
the territory of Savoy, and left him to fteaf
his way through the vineyards, into the Can»
tons of Switzerland,
But you will fay that I am ftraying as
wide as the marquis, and, like him, dropping
VOL. I. : H
98 |
trifles in your ears, to the exclufion of more
immediate, or more important fubjedts: let
me, therefore, return with you tothe Ulyfles,
and tell you, that upon reaching the fhip, we
had fo anxioufly looked for, we were re-
ceived 2s people unknown and unregarded—
conducted into a large ward-room, ftrewed :
with various kinds of lumber, and there left,
as in a'wildernefs. No births had been pre-
pared, nor any kind of arrangement made
for our accommodation. Not acot was flung ;
~nor any fleeping place allotted. The ward-
room was open to all, and was to ferve for the
whole of the pafiengers. We were turned
in loofe, with fix or eight other perfons, and |
foon found ourfelves to be, only, individuals
of the general herd—the whole flock being
left, at large, like fheep ina common fold.
The veffel is commanded by an officer
of the navy, and it was no part of his duty
- 9 prepare accommodations for paffengers he
neither knew nor expected. She ‘is’ one
of the old forty-four gun frigates, and carries
fome of her guns as an armed tranfport. Had
our fhip been a common tranfport, ora mere
99
chantman, I fhould have felt enough at home
to have demanded ail we required, but, from
not having, before, been paflengers on boarda
fhip of war, Cleghorn, Mafter, and mytelf
were quite at a lofs how to proceed. For-
tunately Henderfon is more au fart to thefe
fubjeGts, and from underftanding the neceflary
etiquette, kindly took upon himfelf the tafk
of meliorating our condition. Having ap-
plied, with all due ceremony, to the Governor
of our ocean. caftle, he foon fucceeded in bring-
ing one of the lieutenants to our aid; who,
very obligingly, gave immediate directions
for bettering our fituation, and it was gra-«
tifying, beyond all the advantages of per-
fonal accommodation, to obferve with what
promptitude his orders were put into exe-
cution. The packages, and other incom-
-moding lumber, were quickly removed; and
a canvafs partition was put up to divide the
ward-room into two feparate apartments ; al-
lotting to us that on the flarboard fide. Four
cots were flung, in a row, over the cannon,
and inclofed with another canvafs running,
parallel with the former, throughout the whole
length of the ward-room. This formed a |
H 2
| Tole)
general fleeping birth for our mefs, allowing
to each his appropriate drefling room between
the feveral guns : and, thus, were we fpeedily
accommodated with five diftinét apartments,
confifling of a long narrow dining room, and,
as we were aflured, four excellent bed-rooms.
We were both amufed and gratified in
obferving the expertnefs of the fhip’s car~
penters, and all the-men employed upon this
occafion ; and it afforded us great pleafure to
remark how prompt and obedient they were
in executing the commands of their oflicers.
On board a tranfport, or a merchantman,
feveral days would have been expended, in
preparing what was here completed in a
fingle hour. afb }
As we are only freth-water failors, it was,
-hinted, for our information, that the aft, or
fternmoft cot, being the upper birth on the ftar-
board fide, was deemed the place of honor, and
hence appropriated to the ufe of the captain,
always, when the officers fleep in the ward-
room. My ambition did not lead me to contend
for this fickening poft of honor, therefore, in
| i
x
TORz
i :
poor naufeated ftomach, I, 7
very humbly, required to be allowed to take
the loweft cot of the four, and am accordingly
indulged with the birth neareft the centre of
the fhip, where I lie with my three comrades ~
obedience to my
kicking, in a row, at my head.
- Our firft night has been reftlefs and
_difturbed—the unpleafant heaving of the
fhip—the creaking of bulk-heads, and
other noifes—the uneafy motion of the cot,
and a whole hoft of annoyances, prevented
me from fleeping. Ateach movement of the
fhip, or the cot, my feet were ftruck againft’
the bulk-head at the bottom of the ward-
room; or] was bumped upon the huge can-
non ftanding under me; or had Cleghorn’s feet
roughly prefented tomy-head. Some of thefe
evils arofe from the cot being badly flung,
and will be removed; and a few days, I
truft, will reconcile me to thofe which cannot
be remedied. |
i}
104
LETTER Sve
Leeward Iiand divifion of the expedition puts to fea. Ap-
pearance of the fleet on doubling the pint of the Ifle of
Wight. Its faiting forms a grand and pleafing [pectacle. Fire
ing of cannon on beard a foip. Author's fenfations convince
him that he is no longer upon terra firma. Putrid wa-,
_ ter on board the Uljffes. Kitchen Inconveniences. A=
thor expects to proceed to Ireland.
H. M. 5. Ulyffes, Nov. 15.
Tus long expeted day is at length arrived,
when our proud fleet {wells its loity fails to
feek the enemy. Theloud fignal of departure
being given, all the fhips of the Leeward Ifland
divifion weighed anchor this morning, and
put to fea under a moft favourable, breeze.
The Ulyffes being left to wait the failing of | q
the convoy tor Cork, we remained tranquil
- fpectators, and had every opportunity of en-
joying the fcene; which was great, and
fplendid, and led me firongly to with that
you had been here to witncfs it, with us.
The day being fine, and the wind from a
'
102)
friendly quarter, the picture was beautiful, as
it was grand and animated. On_ pafling
round, or, to ufe the failors’ term, on doubling
the point of the Ifle of Wight, all the fhips
‘feemed to fall into regular fucceflion, forming a
line of numberlefs extent—each elevating her
fails, into view, over the territory of the ifland,
as though they were contending which fhould
be longeft feen ; or, as if ftriving to rival the
clouds, in their travels through the fkies, con-
{cious that they,too, bore, within them, their
thunder, and their lightning.
It was a pleafing fpedtacle to every be-
holder, andthofewho felt as Englifhmenought,
derived, from it, fenfations peculiarly grateful.
To witnefs fuch a fleet full-{welling, from
our little ifland, into-the broad ocean, to fight
our battles in a far diftant country, conveyed
ideas of greatnefs and power, which were
calculated to raife a juft ambition in every
Britith bofom. The fhips of war and tranf-
ports exceeded two hundred fail. The im-
menfe fhip, the Commerce de Marfeilles, cap-
tured at Toulon, is at the head of the convoy,
with the admiral, the’ commander in chief
aA
104 ee
of the army, and nearly a thoufand troops on.
board. It is, currently, reported here that the ~
whole of thefe, together with theCork divifion,
are to rendezvous at Barbadoes, and, making
that the grand depot, proceed, from thence, to
the attack of various colonies. |
\
For a long time paft has this vaft ar-
mament been expected in the Weft Indies,
and during many tedious weeks has England,
almoft daily, looked for its departure: but to
prepare, and fet afloat fuch a fleet, and fuch’
an army, is an undertaking of no trifling
magnitude: and far more difficult in the ex-
ecution than thofe fuperficial obfervers, who
are ignorant.of the fervice, are willing to
imagine. If it meets with fair winds, and
proceeds without difafter, or unforefeen
delay, it may yet arrive at a good feafon, and
in time, perhaps, to effec all its intended
operations,
We were, yefterday, regaled with the
loud treat of hearing the fhip’s cannon fired,
while we -were on board. Every thing
was cleared away, as if preparing for agtion;
ay eh 105
all the doors and windows were fet open, and
every precaution uled, to prevent injury or
accident.’ We remained in the ward-room
_during the time of firing the guns, in that
part of the fhip, and endeavoured to be ftridly
attentive to the effect. It was not unlike a
violent ftroke ofele€tricity : and, fora mament,
we felt flunned with the thock. The jarring
‘concuffion conveyed the fenfation of the
whole fhip having fthivered afunder, or fud-
denly burft into atoms; and it feemed matter
of furprize that the ears of the failors fhould,
ever, become capable of fupporting the fuc-
ceflive and violent explofions of a hoftile en-
‘ gagement. NotwithQanding the precaution
of letting down the windows, thofe of the
quarter gallery were fhattered to pieces. _
You know what a fick and fuffering
failor I am, and will not be furprized to learn
that the flight motion of the fhip, at anchor,
gives me a degree of head-ach, with a fenfe
of naufea, and uneafinefs of ftomach. It does
not quite amount to ficknefs, but is fuf-
ficient to make me know that I am not upon
tercafirma, Polflibly the gradual introdudtion
106
effected by our prefent delay, may enable
me better to fupport the more fevere motion
of failing; and, from growing accuftomed
to the fhip, while in harbour, I may be lefs
a fufferer when we put to fea,
We are daily becoming more fettled, and
better reconciled to our floating dwelling:
but we are fometimes annoyed by the merry:
crowd on the. other fide the canvafs. Some
late additions have been made to their party ;
and this feems now to be the general mefs, and
common receptacle of paflengers ; but, group-
edas they are, friends and ftrangers together,
we fometimes find that they are fufficiently
acquainted to become more loudly joyous
than is quite agreeable, in fuch near neigh-
DOurs.s
As we are to. wait for other fhips, we
may now find an opportunity of adding to the
f{canty ftock of provifions, which we procured
amidft the general fcramble of embarkation;
and we hope, alfo, that our veffel will have
time to take in a freth fupply of water; for we
have, hitherto, fuffered,very feverely, from not
\
having any, but what has been putrid and of-
fenfive, on board ; and coming, diredlly, to this
from the fhore, has rendered it far worfe than
if we had been, gradually, compelled to fubmit
to it, after being a long time at fea. To myfelf,
in particular, this is a weighty misfortune, as I
have not the common refourceof flying to wine
and beer, as a relief. We have taken to our aid,
both purifiers and filtering ftones ; and, very
foon, we hope to have good water from the -
fhore. We are further affured of having our
prefent fufferings compenfated upon the paf-
fage ; for the Thames water, now fo offenfive,
will foon reftore itfelf, and, becoming fettled
and depurated, will be clear and fweet as we
could defire.
With regard to our eating, likewife, ’tis
well we are not of the Epicurean fchool,
The many difagreeable {mells, and the heaving
motion of the fhip, have much impaired our |
appetites ; and, were we fqueamifh, or over-_
dainty, we muft, literally, ftarve ; for our fhip~ _
cuilinier happens to be fit only to cook for
the feafoned ftomachs of old Neptune’s hardiet
fons, In firength and flature this governor
\
‘ 708
of the galley might be deemed a fit opponent —
for Hercules, although his appearance fome-
- times calls up the idea of a fable fpirit who had
been long broiling in the dark regions of Pluto,
His profeffional ignorance is only exceeded
by his general ftupidity. He makes us a daily
vifit at breakfaft-time, to receive inftrutions
regarding dinner; and he, ufually, fumbles
upon fome outrageous miftake, or, totally,
{fpoils whatever is put into his hands. A few
days ago he was defired, together with other _
difhes, to let us have fome beef-fteaks; and ha-
ving receivedhis inftructions, he bent his neck,
- in refpectful civility, and haftened away : but,
within a fingle hour after, lo, and behold!
came our cook running and puffing into the
ward-room, with a great difh of beef-fteaks,
all hot and {moking. He had ufed uncommon
expedition in getting them ready, and, added to
the blunder of giving us dinner an hour after
breakfaft, he had burnt the fteaksasblackashis ~ —
own fkin, and as dry as the outfide ofa tea-
kettle.
As foonas the other veflels are ready, the
Ulyfes, we are told, is to proceed with them
109
to Cowes harbour, to join the St. Domingo
divifion. It is probable, therefore, that my)
next letter may be addrefled to you from
Ireland.
LiG
LETTER Xt.
4 dreadful florm overtakes the fleet. It returns to St. Helen’s
in a difabled condition. Author's fenfations during the form.
Thofe of other Paffengers unaccuffomed to the fea. Quaint
gokes and remarks of the failors, Difmal effects of the
gale. Author and his comrades goon foore at Port/mouth,
andat the Mle of Wight. Are told that the Ulyffes is to
proceed to Cove with the firft fair wind, without waiting
jor the convoy.
: Spithead, Nov. 19.
Winks in my laft, I mentioned to you the
grand and fplendid fight we had witneffed,
in the failing of an important divifion of our
great expedition, I did not anticipate the
painful reverfe of, thus foon, communica-
ting the unhappy tidings of its return. But,
alas! how uncertain are all human expec-
tations! Pleafed as we were at the proud
failing of this fleet, only a few days fince ; now,
we fhould rejoice, ftill more, could we fee’
every fhip again fafe in harbour.
We, yefterday, experienced a moft tremen-
dous gale, which, from its difaftrous effects
es
among the thipping at Spithead, led to very
painful apprehenfions concerning the fleet
which had fo lately gone to fea. The wind
having fhifted to an unfavourable point, and
blowing with great violence, it was manifeft
that the convoy could. not proceed; and
but too evident, that many of the fhips muft be
damaged or loft; and I am forry to add that
we are, already, witneffing the melancholy con-
firmation of our fears, for the fleet not having
cleared the channel, was unable to weather
the ftorm, and, during the whole of this day,
different thips have been dropping in at St.
Helen’s, in a fadly difabled ftate, bringing fill
_ worfe tidings of thofe left behind. A ftorm
fo violent and defiructive has feldom been.
known in. this climate; indeed, many who
had been in the Weft Indies, remarked, that it
was fearcely inferior to a tropical hurricane.
Even the admiral’s fhip was in extreme peril, -
and, with great difficulty, weathered the gale.
She is now brought back in a much injured
condition, being very leaky, and having a con-
fiderable depth of water in her hold. So
alarming was her fituation, during the form,
that if the boifterous elements had raged on
but a little longer, fhe had, probably, gone to
EI2
the bottom, with the general, the admiral, and
nearly two thoufand fouls on board. We
are told that fhe is fo damaged as to be unfit
for further fervice, and that, notwithftanding
the large fum lately expended in repairing her,
fhe can never, again, be fit to go to fea.
The confufion of a crowded convoy in-
creafed the danger of the gale. Some veffels
became ungovernable, and ran on board each
other ; fome had their fails {plit; others were
difmafted; fome loft their bowfprits; and
{carcely any efcaped without more or lefs of
injury. Many were loft upon our own:
fhores—others were wrecked upon the coaft
of France—-fome f{prang a leak—and feveral,
alas! foundered and funk. Thofe, even, of
the crews, whoare made prifoners, from their
fhips having been blown upon the enemy’s
fhore, have much caufe to be happy—for
others, lefs fortunate, fharing the fate of their
veflels, perifhed in the fathomlefs deep.
Great multitudes are known to be loft; but
the full extent of this fad difafter cannot yet be
afcertained, for crippled fhips ftill continue to
drop in: it is therefore hoped that fome may ~
1.8
appear which report leads us not to expedt.
Among the more hopelefs is the Stanley, with
fome hundreds of troops on board. Of this
fhip not the flighteft intelligence can be learned,
from any one yet returned. She is fuppofed
to have gone to the bottom, and all hands to
have perifhed! What a fad and melancholy
change! Ey how flender a thread are the
hopes of man fufpended!) This great fleet
which had coft fo much time, and toil in
its equipment ; and which, under the faireft
‘profpects, fo lately fwelled her fails to feek
the broad ocean, is already defeated, dif-
abled, and brought to ruin! What an exam-
ple! What a ftriking proof of the weaknefs
of human forefight; and the uncertainty of
all our wifeft calculations !
The damage done to the veflels, imme-
diately around us, and the perilous ftate of our
own fhip, although lying at anchor, had caufed
a too faithful reprefentation of the evils which
might have befallen us, had we been on our
_paflage to Ireland; and rendered us happy in
not having, previoufly, gone to fea. Signals
of diftrefs were heard on all quarters. Pieces
FOL I. a
!
11
of maits, cordage, and planks floated by the
fides of the Ulyffes: All was hurry and alarm
around us. Many veflelsnear tous wereinjured
—fome, driven from their anchors, drifted on.
board other thips, or were caft on fhore, and,
being there wrecked, remained, before our
eyes, fad examples of the greater difafters to
be apprehended from the ftorm. |
Such, even, was the perilous infecurity of
the Ulyffes, that although, to ufe the fea-term,
we had lowered our top-mafis, and made all
fnug, it was deemed expedient to prepare the
guns, for the purpofe of firing fignals of dif
~trefs ; and, had the gale continued much lon-
ger, we might have required afiiftance, which,
at fuch a moment, it had been impoffible to
obtain. :
T was, exceflively, fick and ill; and from
the deep rolling, eavy toflings, and the many
troubled motions of the fhip, was quite unable
to fupport myfelf upon my legs. Staggering
and {tumbling I crawled out of the ward-room
to the middle of the half-deck, to feek a more
central part of the fhip, and, there, clinging
T1r5
to fome firm hold, remained, fick and com-
fortlefs, to wear out a moft diftrefsful day.
AffliGed with head-ach, a naufeated ftomach,
and trembling limbs, my contemplations were
not of the moft confolatory nature. I faw all
the evils that were to befal our fleet under
their moft gloomy colors. I beheld the con-
voy difperfed ; thips ftruggling in the gale;
my fellow creatures {inking ; and the whole
expedition difcomfited: the mind fympa-
thizing with the fickened frame, all was
pictured as one grand fcene of difafter and
deftruGion.
My friend Mafter, and fome others on.
board, fuffered ftill more feverely than I did;
for, by fixing myfelf to the fpot where I
found a free circulation of air, and, com-
paratively, but little motion, the naufea, which
diftrefled me, did not proceed to the viclent,
and almoft inceflant reaching, with which
they were afflicted.
In the midft of our apprehenfions, and
our danger, I could not but notice the ftrange
remarks, and quaint jokes which pafled among
12 ;
116
the failors, who were, varioutly, actuated
by feelings of indolence, anxiety, or in-
difference. One of them being called upon
deck, and defired to go aloft, todo fomething
that was expedient at the top of the matt, idly
crawled up, from below, muttering, “I'd
rather be drowned in the fea, dammee,
than at the maft-head”—another, obferving
a paflenger in a fevere fit of vomiting, ex-
claimed—“ dammee, he’s only fick. for
want o’grog”—and a third, as if refponfive
to the other, called out, “ {tiff breeze Jack.
He'll be worfe yet! Steward! why don’t you
give the gentleman a piece of fat pork to fettle
his ftomach.”
About five o’clock in the evening the
ftorm began to abate; when torrents of
rain leffened the wind, and brought the failors
fome refpite from the haraffing, and perilous
duties of the day. From thofe who have re-
turned in fafety we hear many details of real, —
and of imaginary diftrefs, of ludicrous in-
cidents, and of very truly afflicting, and me-
Jancholy events; but the diftrefsful fum of the
whole is, that the fleet is feverely damaged s
}
1i7
many {hips are loft ; numbers of fouls have
perifhed ; and the whole expedition is difabled
and delayed.
To repeat to you all the afflicting reports
we hear on the fubje&, would fwell my
letter into a volume: for, in addition to real
and ferious ills, the reprefentations of paf-
fengers, not accuftomed to the fea, magnify.
thofe of lefs importance into a terrific ca-
talogue of injuries and difafters. Some loft
their baggage—fome their ftock and provi-
fions: One laments his pig —another his goat
—another his poultry: Some were floating
in their births, from water dafhing in at the
{cuttles ; and others, finding the fea break in at
the ftern and quarter-gallery windows, fan-
cied themfelves to be drowning in their beds.
Pigs and fheep, chickens and ducks were
wathed away by dozens. Hen-coops, filled
with poultry, boats, bmnacles, and quarter
boards were all {wept off by the violence of
the wind, or by the heavy feas that broke over
the deck. Hogs and fheep put to fea in open
boats ; ducks and geefe fwam off in their
coops; naked goats fought the waves ; even
ES
7
118
chickens and turkies took to the water, and all
were feen {fwimming upon the ocean together,
_ We were on fhore this morning at Portf-
mouth, and, from the ramparts, faw the fhips
of the returning fleet affembled in foreft crowd
at St. Helen’s. From thence, alfo, we had a
more ample demonftration of the effets which -
the ftorm had produced immediately around
us ; and I am forry to tell you that we find the
injury more extenfive than we had imagined.
Five or fix veflels lie, caft on fhore, clofe to the
town, and feveral are driven aground in
Stokes’ Bay. Two are lying near to South-fea
Caftle; an artillery fhip, with the Ocean
tranfport, and a gun-boat, are on fhore diretly
under the ramparts, and lying, dry, quite out
of thefea. Some, it is hoped, may be got off
again, others are fo much injured, that they-
- will be entirely loft.
Our vilit to Portfinouth was for the pure
pofe of procuring fome additional provifions
for the paflage, and completing other neceflary
purchafes; and, with acknowledgments for
_your kind attention, |!may announce ‘to you
‘
= fis
119
that it afforded me the opportunity of receiving
the gay fword, and {carlet embroidered fuit, in
which your friend is dire€ted to exhibit his
perfon. |
We have alfo had a pleafant ramble, fince
I laft wrote to you, to the Ifle of Wight, in
fearch of eggs, poultry, and pigs to add to our
fea ftore.
_ The report is, again, revived that we are
to avail ourfelves of the firft hour of a fair
wind to proceed to Cork, without waiting
for any other veffel ; and we are all of accord
in wifhing this may prove corre, for our
prefent ftate of fufpenfe and uncertainty is
growing, moft fadly, tedious and difagreeable.
fa
120
LETTER XIL
Military incertitude not inferior to the glorious uncertainty
of the law. Examples in proof ofthis. The Ulyffes deftined
to make a running paffage, with troops, to Martinique,
Punifoment of flogging a failor round the fleet.
H. M.S. Ulyfles, Nov. 23.
"Tur uncertainty of the law has eftablifhed
itfelfinto an adage : but I begin to fufpeét that,
proverbial as it is, it muft yield to the fuperior
incertitude of military fervice. Even the
fickle elements, with which this fo intimately
conneéts, are out-rivalled by it; for, uncertainty
is, equally, its principle and its purfuit. | In_
my laft letter I mentioned to you that we were
to proceed to Cove the moment the wind was
fair, and, in this idea, we had written to our
friends defiring them not to addrefs us, again,
at Spithead, but to fend their letters to Ireland,
that they might meet us at Cork. Now, we -
find that our deftination is again changed, and
indeed, within the two laft days, it has been fo
rapidly altered and confirmed, fixed, reverfed,
varied, and changed, again and again, that we
I2i
are, totally, at a lofs on what affurance to fix
our faith.
Yefterday we heard of new doubts
and delays. The ftores of the Ulyffes were
to be unftowed, in order to examine if any of
them were injured by the gale ; they were to
be removed, and the veffel given to the fervice |
of the Leeward Ifland army; fhe was to pro-
ceed dire& to the Welt Indies with troops of
Sir Ralph Abercromby’s divifion ; to go im-
mediately to Cork, to take on board troops’
of the St. Domingo divifion; to be converted
into an hofpital fhip; into a tranfport for
ftores, &c. Sc. &c., fo that, within the fhort
round of twenty-four hours, the fhip and our-
felves were deftined toan almoftinfinite variety
_ of ftations and purpofes. To-day the reports
have not been lels multiplied or lefs varied,
and the deftination of the Ulyffes, and her
paflengers, has changed with almoft every
pafling hour. In the morning it was fettled
that the fhip was to proceed to the Weft
Indies, with the Leeward Ifland convoy ; and
that we were to remain on board, during her
: pallage down the Channel, but were to be dif-
/
i122
tributed, into different fhips of the St. Domingo
divifion, on arriving at a certain latitude, or
whenever we fhould fall in with the St. Do-
mingo convoy, from Cork; and this being
mentioned to us as the final arrangement, we
wrote a hurried line to a friend at Cove, beg-—
ging him to take charge of our letters, until we
fthould meet at fea, or at St. Domingo. At
noon the infpector general of hofpitals came on
“board to announce to us that the Uly fies was
to be, completely, fitted as an hofpital hip, for
the St. Domingo army ; and to be the receiving
fhip of the Cork divifion, during the paflage ;
and, further, that we were not only to continue
on board, but officially, and to confider our-
felvesonduty. Yet fcarcely had one fhort hour
paffled away before a different arrangement |
was made; for, at one o'clock, it was again
decided that the Ulyfies fhould proceed to
_Cork, and take in troops for St. Domingo ;
and fo completely did this feem to be fixed,
that the purfer of the Trufty man of war,
who was going to join his fhip, put his
baggage on board, and fet off to Cork, by way
of Milford Haven, affured of meeting the
Ulyfles at Cove. But evening had not ar-
~-
123
rived before a new.change fucceeded ; and we
fy
were now told that it was jimally fettled for
the Ulyffes to go in company with two or
three other fhips of war, and make a run-
ning paflage to Martinique, in order to haften
thither a body of troops, without waiting
the interruptions, and tedious delays of a
convoy; and, to this end, veflels were to be
alongfide, early in the morning, to take out
all the ftores belonging to the St. Domingo
divifion, ; : |
‘Prefently, after we had heard the latter
report, the lieutenant, commanding the fhip,
came on board with inftruétions to the fame
effet.’ This, therefore, ftands as the final
arrangement: but we have already known
fo many jizal arrangements that we begin to
regard a /aff decifion, with refpe@& to the
~ Diyffes, in the light of a diplomatic w/-
timatum—fifty times renewed! What the
morrow may bring forth is yet in, embryo,
and exceedingly doubtful: but the com-
toanding officer having received his official
inftructions, probability would feem to ren-
der the prefent decifion conclufive. )
£84
How we are to be dipofed of is not yet |
determined, but, in cafe of this plan being
adopted, we fhall, no doubt, be driven to feek
our births elfewhere. |
I had almoft forgot to notice to you
that, a few mornings fince, we had an oppor-
tunity of witnefling the diftrefsful ceremony
of flogging a failor round the fleet, in con-
fequence of a fentence paffed upon him for
defertion. That the fufferer might be ex-
hibited with all the parade of a public pu-
nifhment, and that all due folemnity might be
given to it, a number of boats, from the dif- |
ferent fhips of war, were ordered to attend in
proceffion. The man belonged to the Trufty.
He was, accordingly, placed in the long-boat
of that fhip, and made to ftand up, with his
_ back uncovered ; and when, the other boats
had affembled around him, to the number of |
fifteen, they all proceeded, in flow and folemn
movement, to the feveral fhips, whence thele
boats had been difpatched. Upon arriving
at the fide of each fhip, the boats refted on |
their oars; and the fhip’s company being
piped upon deck, to witnefs the fpectacle, ten
ate
125
_ ftripes were infli€ted upon the bare back of
the delinquent—thus dividing the fentence
of a hundred and fifty lafhes, into fifteen fe.
parate punifhments, according to the number
- Of fhips, whofe boats attended. In this way
_ the difgrace, refulting from the crime, was
made public, and the punifhment not only
rendered more fevere, but fo conduGed as to
be an example to the whole fleet.
126
LETTER XI
Author and his comrades again on fhore. Portfmouth
thronged, and many compelled to fleep in chairs, hammocks,
—€5%c, Author obtains a bed by ftratagem. St. Domingo
Jlores removed from the Ulyffes ; and the focial quartette of
the wardroom ordered to feparate into the George and
Bridget, and the Lord Sheffield tranfports. Further ace
count of the difaftrous effetts of the form. Author and
Lis comrades fuppofed to have been at fea with the convoy.
Felicitations of an old lady at Gofport, on feeing Dr. Cleg=
harn fafely returned.
Portfmouth, Nov. 3o.
Portsmoure! methinks, I hear you ex=
claim! What, again on fhore? Yes, again on
fhore ! and, in England, too! Be not furpriz-
ed! I have already told you that it is not lefs
difficult to know our ultimatum, than that of
a political negociation. Since 1 wrote to you
laft we have remained in a moft unfettled
ftate, wandering from Spithead to Portf{mouth,
and from Portfmouth to Spithead, even as
men without a home—/zrs lodging on fhore
—/ans birth on board. Some nights we have
pafled in the Ulyffes—others we have flept at
Portfmouth ;-but, in either, we have felt our«
&
4
¥eg
felves mere intruders, the fhip having been one
erand {cene of hurry and confufion—the town
a great and overflowing throng. In confe-
quence of the fleet returning, every inn, and
every houfe is fo crowded that beds cannot
be procured—hence fome fleep upon tables,
fome in chairs, and fome in hammocks, hung
in the fitting rooms ; while others find other
expedients for the night. 3 ‘
Laft night I was indebted to my pro-
feffion for my pillow. I had gone the whole
round of the town, and had fought through-
out every ftreet, and almoft every houfe, in
vain, when I was compelled to have recourfe
to arufe de guerre, and by a ftratagem, which
I truft you will allow to have been both
watrantable and innocent, fucceeded in
procuring an excellent bed, whilft many”
others were obliged to fit up the whole
night. :
The hour was late. I was ready to
drop with fatigue, and had quite defpaired
of finding a refting place by other means,
hence, neceflity feeming to fandtion the ex-
128
~ pedient, having chanced to hear that the land-
lord of one of the inns was ill, and confined
to his room, and having once feen him, and.
heard his name, I walked ftraight into the
bar, and, addreffing myfelf to his lady, with-
out afking for a bed—or entering upon other
fubjects, inquired civilly after Mr. :
The good lady, taking it for granted that
T was well acquainted with her hufband,
thanked me,—entered into a long detail of the
fymptoms of his complaint, and with an ap-
peal, which implied that fhe had not miftaken
my profeffion, afked what might be moft
likely to give him relief —expreffing herfelf —
erateful for the hints I fuggefted; and, after
converfing a fhort time, upon indifferent fub-
jects, and drinking a glafs of brandy and wa-
. ter, I had the good fortune to be accommo-
dated with one of the beft beds in the houfe ;
which had, probably, been referved in cafe’
any particular friend, or any officer of high
rank or intereft fhould apply in diftrefs.—
You, my friend,’ will give me credit for hav-
ing contributed all in my power to the relief
of Mr. — , before I left his houfe in the
morning.
bee
It is now reported that three forty-four
gun fhips, viz. the Ulyffes, the Experiment,
and the Charon, are to take in the troops,
‘which, during the gale, were in fuch ex-
treme peril on board the vat and unwieldy
Commerce de Marfeilles, and to run out with
them, as fpeedily as poflible, to the Weft
‘Indies,
Confiftent with this arrangement, vel-
fels came alongfide the Ulyffes early on the
- morning of the 26th inftant, for the purpofe
of removing the St. Domingo ftores; and
«the hofpital packages, which were ftowed in
this fhip, are now diftributed into two or three
different veflels; which is an improvement,
gained by the change, for fhould either of
thefe fhips chance to be loft, captured, or de-
layed, ftill a proportion of the flores may
fafely arrive in the others. Further advan-
tages may alfo derive from the diftribution,
as an aflortment will be more conveniently
at hand for any cafe of emergency —fuch
as immediate ' or unexpected fervice, de-
tachments, or fupplying diilerent iflands or
colonies. | |
VOL. kk K
130
You will feel that, with refpe& to our-
felves, it were difficult to acknowledge fimilar
advantages from the feparation of our happy
and focial mefs, although we are; likewife,
obliged to make a divifion of our ftores, and
mefs-apparatus, being now inftructed. to make
the voyage in different fhips. This is matter
of high regret to us all, and the more fo, as —
we had been long enough together to become
~well acquainted, and happy in each other’s
fociety, befides having jointly provided our-
~felves for the voyage. But it confifts with
the many uncertainties that furround us, and
is quite within the limits of our expecta-
tion.
We have received orders to repair, two
of us to the George and Bridget, and two. |
to the Lord Shefheld: Mafter and myfelf feel
ourfelves fortunate in being appointed to the
“latter, for we had been on board the George
and Bridget, and had not acquired any ftrong
predilection in her favor. She wears the
appearance of a heavy, dull-failing veflel ;
and feems not to offer any thing fuperior in
her accommodations, The cabin “is deep, 4
131.
dark, and gloomy, and her general appearance
conveys nothing of neatnefs nor arrangement,
but all about her looks /ombre, unclean, and —
comfortlefs. The Lord Sheffield we have
not yet feen, but her captain tells us fhe is a
faft failing fhip, and fitted up in a fuperior
ftyle, with her cabin neat, light, and lively
-as a “ drawing-room.” We do not give
implicit confidence to the report of one fo
ftrongly interefted in {peaking her fair; but
the probabilities are much in her favor, the
being a Weft India trader, and, no doubt,
better fitted for paflengers, and better adapted,
in all refpects, for a tropical climate. ‘The
George and Bridget is a large Baltic timber
fhip, and, of courfe, has not had the fame oc-
-cafion either for conveying or accommodating
paflengers. | /
_ Mafter and myfelf have alfo the prof-
pect of a further advantage in the fociety of
our friendly infpector Mr. Weir, who intends
to take his birth on board the Lord Sheffield.
Should we be fortunate enough thus to form -
a trio, we. fhall have far lefs caufe to feel
our regretted feparation than our friends
K 2
132
who are doomed to make the voyage in the
gloomy George and Bridget. )
We have met with many of the officers
at Portfmouth who were out, in the fleet,
during the late deftru@ive gale. Their re-
ports dre fad and afflicting beyond all the |,
fuggeftions even of fearful anticipation. De-
dudting in due allowance for the augmented
terrors of young and irefh-water failors, {till
the whole fcene, and its refult have been moft
painfully difaftrous; for, melancholy to re-
peat! multitudes of fouls have perifhed ; and,
no lefs than fix.or feven veffels have not been
heard of fince the ftorm.
By our letters we find that many of our
friends had imagined us to be at fea, and,
confequently, they had read our deftiny in
fate’s. darkeit page. We are happy in the
power of relieving them from their fears,
7 bd a »
and rejoice that thofe with whom we were
in the habit of more immediate correfpon-
dence, have not been Stes | to fimilar ap=
prehenfions.
8
‘From ; a like error having obtained here,
we are hailed, by almoft all we meet, with
cordial greetings on our fafe return, In our
walk, through the ftreets of Gofport, we
chanced to fee an old lady, with whom Dr.
Cleghor n had been an inmate, during his at-
tendance at the Haflar hofpital, and the very
inflant the good old dame efpied us, fhe ran
tous, with out ftretched arms, and welcoming
} the door, with warm embraces, fpake. the ‘i
auxious fears with which her bofom had beat
towards him; while fhe expreffed herfelf
enraptured to meet him, again, fafe on fhore.
Never were friendfhip and regard more ‘na-
turally, or more powerfully evinced. The
good old woman’s eyes alternatcly overflowed
with tears, or fparkled with youthful fire:
and fhe told the ansious griefs, and vivid
terrors fhe had fuffered, with all the glowing
expreffion of a fond mother who had juft re-
covered her loft, and only fon.
_ Upon fuch occafions the anxiety of im-
mediate friends and relatives is an expe@ted
tribute, and it operates as a confolation and
fupport in the hour of peril. But the acute
2a
ry4
and impreffive concern of this kind-hearted
old woman furpaffed all that is looked for on
the part of thofe, who only ftand in the. re-
lation of diftant acquaintances. Tt was, in
fo far, the more grateful, and not only did
honor to human nature, but ftood in proof
of the high worth, and refpeétability of our
efteemed comrade. oe
4
135
5) LETTER .XIV.
Perilous expedition of the author and others to the Mother-
bank. They fave themfelves on board the Diana frigate.
Hofpitality and humane attentions of the officers of that
Jfoip. _ Lieutenant Davy-a valuable officer, and an accom
plifoed man. Author and the companions o of his peril pafs
the night on board the Diana. Proceed ta the Mother
bank, and embark on board the Lord Sheffield. ir): ime
preffion from the appearance of that Jip highly favorable,
Mother-bank, Dec. 3.
My, late letter to you, from Portfmouth, ©
had nearly been a laft addrefs. In my paf-
{age from thence to the Lord Sheffield, at the
Mother-bank, I was expofed to fuch immi-
nent peril as to have had fcarcely a hope of
-efcape, The neceflary arrangements being
_madeé for occupying our new births, I left
Port{mouth in a {mall four-oared boat, be-
longing to the Lord Sheffield, accompanied
by Mr. Jaffray (the mafter of the fhip) and
Mr. MLean, of the hofpital department ;
when, on our way to the Mother-bank, we
. were fuddenly overtaken by a violent, and,
fituated as we were, moft perilous: ftorm.
a
13 6
The fky blackened ; the tearing winds roared;
and the tumid fea,. gathering into frightful
mountains, rufhed before the wind in boif-
terous loudnefs, threatening us with inflant
deftruGtion. Toffed from wave to wave, and
dafhed and rolled about, amid’% the broken
nountains of water, every moment feemed
likely to be ourlatt ; for any one of the heavy.
feas might have-upfet our little bark, or have
broken over us, and fent us at once, to the bot-
tom. Befet by multitudes of rugged and liquid
hills, rupturing on all quarters, and rolling
and tumbling one over another towards her,
fo {mall a boat feemed to have no chance,
nor even a poflibility of maintaining herfelf
upon the rude and ever changing furface. ©
From the deep, {welling of the fea, together
with the conflant agitation and breaking of
the waves, the failors could not take fufficient
depth to pull fteadily with their oars ; nor
‘could the boat be made to obey the helm,
At one moment we were raifed, as it were,
ona pinnacle—at the next ingulphed in deep
fhade between two roaring furges, towering
‘high: above us, and feeming to fay, % Ye.
fhall never rife again.” Yet, quickly, were
7
ae
- we caft upon a new formed fummit, and as
fuddenly dafhed again into the vale of fill |
more rugged billows, each contending in
hafty firife, which fhould be the meflenger
of our fate.
Poor M‘Lean, who had taken his feat
at the bow, in order to trim the boat, trem-
bled, and turned pale with fear; the failors
grew tired and diflatished ; and the captain,
with a countenance ftrongly expreflive of
trouble and .anxiety, begged of us not to
{peak, left we fhould divert his attention from
the helm; upon the management of which
our only chance feemed to depend. Sitting
at his elbow, in dead filence, as he defired, [
carefully, watched his features as the barome-
ter of my bopes and fears, and you will be-
lieve that I felt not much at eafe, upon ob-
ferving him betray manifeft fymptoms of
alarm. To move was even worfe than to
{peak, and might be inftant deftru@ion to us —
all, hence it only remained to us to fit in
folemn ftillnefs, and meet whatever fate fhould
overtake us.
138
The captain affures me that I behaved
uncommonly well, upon the occafion ; but Ff
fear all the merit due to me was merely ne-
gative, for I am not fure that my conduc.
was not more the effeé of refignation, than
of MRR ee that no effort, no power
that | poticiled, could, in any degree, aid our
fafety,: F-re iris myfelf, in implicit obes
dience, to the captain’s better judgment ;
and, without exprefling, indeed I might
fay, without harbouring ufelefs fears, fat
calmly prepared for any refult that mig
: occur,
To reach the Lord Sheffield was abfo-
“dutely impoffible; forthe wind and tide were
bot In concert ‘io the florm, to prevent
it: and to return to Portfmouth was, {carcely, ;
“Tefs. difficult, or lefs perilous, from the in=.
ability of our little boat to refit the. ‘enor-_
mous following waves, impelled by all the
force of the gale and the tide.
In this critical dilemma it was decided
that we fhould bear away, and fteer for the
neareft hip there was any hope of our being
139
able to fetch, and the captain, encouraging
the failors to continue at their oars, and bear
away to leeward, directed the helm accord-
ingly. In this attempt we ftruggled on, often
wafhed with the heavy fprays, which ftruck
againft the boat, and as frequently almoft ups _
fet by the tearing gufts of wind, or driven
to the bottom by the difordered waves. But
perfeverance, together with great dexterity
‘and addrefs in the management of the boat,”
at length, fucceeded in bringing us alongfide
the Diana frigate, where we were kindly re-
ceived, and even cherifhed as friends refcued
from the devouring deep.
- Having witneffed the danger to which
we had been expofed, the officers, in the moft
liberal manner, welcomed.us on board, and
refufing to hear a word of apology, infifted
upon our not attempting to put to fea again
until every appearance of the gale had fub-
fided. Indeed they gave orders that our
boat fhould be hoifted on board, and defired
that we would think only of making ourfelves
comfortable forthe night, In this they were
/
140 ee.
imperative, nor will you imagine that our
obedience was reluctant.
The Diana was under the command of
Lieutenant Davy, in the abfence of Captain.
Faulkener. ‘This gentleman gave directions |
for our receiving every accommodation the —
fhip could afford, and tendeted his fervices
in a manner that made it grateful to accept |
the kindnefs beftowed, Every individual
feemed to. emulate the commanding officer
in his friendly attention towards our party,
infomuch that we had caufe to rejoice in the
peril that had caft us on board,
As foon as we were made dry, and,
enabled to feel a little like ourfelves, we were
invited to the dinner table of the mefs. The
board was fpread with plenty, and we par- |
took with Mr. Davy, and the whole party
of officers, who all vied with each other in
kind hofpitality towards the refcued flrangers.
Good humour prevailed; the converfation
was agreeable; and the bottle pafled freely
until evening, when a party was formed to
TAD.
a rubber at whift, and, at night, we were
conducted to fome of the beft births of the
fhip.
It happened that captain Jaffray recog-
nifed an old acquaintance, in the perfon of
the furgeon, and M’Lean proved to be known
to one of the young gentlemen of the cock-
pit, fo that we were not fuch entire ftrangers
as we had expected.
We were pleafed to hear every perfon,
with whom we converfed, {peak of licute-
nant Davy in the higheft terms of praife.
He was entitled to our beft withes, and we
owed him much refpeét and gratitude, we
were, therefore, exceedingly happy to learn
that he had equally the efteem of his captain,
his mefs-mates, and the failors. Asan officer
he is refpected by all, and he is equally va-
lued, and beloved as a man. Combining a
pleafant fuavity of manners, and mildnetfs of
command, with a corre¢t, and firm diicipline, ~
he proves himfelf to be at once a failor, and
agentleman. Active and {pirited as an of-
ficer, he is an example to thole about him,
=|
142
and the regularity and order which. obtaiti
throughout the fhip, and govern all its du=
ties, evince the promptitude with which fuch
an example is followed. The failors’ both:
Jove and refpe& him, and they obey him
from inclination, while they fear to offend
him. As a companion, he is amiable and
engaging. His addrefs is eafy; his manners
are accomplifhed; and, independent of his
great kindnefs to us, in the hour of peril,
his general conduct, and the handfome report
ef his meffmates, could not but call forth our’
efteem. ae
We paffed the night in reft and comfort. -
In the morning the weather was fettled and
fine, therefore, after taking breakfaft with the ©
Diana’s pleafant mefs, our boat was lowered —
down, and we made the beft of our way to
the Lord Sheffield, reluctantly quitting the
héfpitable party, with whom misfortune’ had |
brought us acquainted. 3
‘Without further interruption we reached —
the Mother-bank, and I have now the pleafure
_ toaddrefs you,infafety, fromthe Lord Shefheld,
~
143)
a very fine Weft India fhip, and as fuperior
to the gloomy George and Bridget, even as
her captain had reprefented. She is thoroughly
clean, has a general air of neatnefs, and, if we
_may judge from her appearance, feems likely
to verify the commander’s report of her fail-
ing. She is conveniently fitted out for paf-
fengers, and is, exprefsly, calculated for the
Weft Indies, having awnings, {cuttles, port.
holes and all the necefiary accommodations |
for the climate. The cabin is commodious,
and is fitted up with mahogany wainfcot, pier
glaffes, chairs, fofa, &c. due regard being paid
to tafte and ornament.
We have feveral guns on board, and wear
the appearance of being well armed, but the
‘fhip is not fufficie ntly manned to defend herfelf
avain{ft a regular attack, and this is what we
have moft to lament in our change from the
Ulyffes, for, perhaps, in moft other refpects
our fituation is improved. In point of con-
venience and accommodation the Lord Shef-
field is far preferable to our late favorite—
the cabin being a neat and difting fitting
room, and the fleeping births, feparate ftate.
T44—
roomsentirely fhut away from it, and encloféd
as private apartments. Here we fhall require
no canvafs partition to keep us from the noify
crowd of another mefs, but may feel ourfelves
as retired and uninterrupted as ‘we could be in
a private room on fhore. | oo
145
{
LETTER XV.
Excurfion to the Commerce de Marfille at St. Helen's,
Appearance of that pip as viewed from a /mall boat at
her fide. Author vifits his comrades on board the George
and Bridget : goes to the play at Port{mouth. Tumul-
tuous proceedings at the Theatre. Author returns to the
Lord Sheffield. Dr. Cleghorn joins the mefs on board that
foip.. Symptoms of failing. Linen taken wet from the
wafb- tub.
! Lord Sheffield, Dec. 8.
y ogee I have been unfettled, and moving
about from place to place, making my home
{ometimes on board, fometimes on fhore. Up-
on examining my baggage, foon after I joined
the Lord Sheffield, I perceived that one of my
boxes was mifling ; and it has coft me a long,
and very fickly round, to recover it, in con-
fequence of our old fhip, the Ulyffes, having
changed her birth, and dropped down to St.
Helen’s to take in troops from the Commerce
de Marfeilles. In following her we were
brought into an open and heavy-f{welling fea,
the motion of which made me very unwell,
and led me to contemplate the probable fuf-
“VOL. I. i
. 146°
_ ferings I fhall have to fupport upon the long © Ht
voyage we are about to undertake. ‘
Capt. Jaffray never having been on
board a fhip of fuch immenfe bulk, availed
himfelf of my neceflities, and took the com=
mand of the boat, upon this excurfion, in or-
der to view the vaft Commerce de Marfeilles.
I with it were practicable to convey to you, in
words, the fenfe of grandeur with which the
mind is infpired on firft approaching fuch an
enormous floating battery; or to paint to
you the fenfations excited by rowing, in a
{mall boat, clofe under her ftern, and her fides ;
but it were quite impoffible for the pen to de-
{cribe how diminutive we felt, and how im-
menfe and wonderful fhe appeared—To
exprefs it by the image of the knat and the
camel, it were necefiary to fuppofe the former
the minuteft of its race, and the latter hugely
overgrown. Looking up from our little fkiff —
the fight was truly awful—the figure of the
fhip was forgotten —the hull appeared a moun-
tain, the mafts lofty obelifks erected upon
it; and the tremendous batteries, projeCting ~
from her fides, conveyed the idea of a flu-
147
pendous rock hanging over us, fortified with |
¥ many tiers of cannon,
We alfo availed ourfelves of this ex-
curfion to make a vifit to our friends on board
the George and Bridget, which fhip appears
ftill more /ombre and uncomfortable, after wit-
nefling the neatnefs of the Lord.Sheffield. —
Having to pafs another night or two at
Portfmouth, and finding that a company of
players had arrived, we took the opportunity
of vifiting the theatre. The performance, as
might be expected, was tres mediocre, yet
it might have pafled off tolerably well, and
with fufficient amufement for the evening,
but for an unhappy interruption, which arofe
from fome of the actors oppofing the will of
the audience, refpecting a fong, and imtro-
duced a fcene of tumult and diforder, very
like what I before mentioned to you from
Southampton. | |
The performers at the country theatres
do not feem to feel, like thofe of the London
boards, how much they are the fervants of the
L2
148
public. In town, it may be remarked that
the houfe, on all occafions, is perfectly
obedient to the audience. This is difcreet
on the part of the managers and the actors,
and entitles them to fome merit , for it is often |
a matter of aftonifhment and admiration how ©
they can govern themfelves, fo implicitly as
they do, and maintain enough of forbearance
to bend fubmiffive to the will of the public.
The loyal fong of “ God fave the King”
being called for, fome of the performers ad-
vanced to the front of the ftage, and, bowing
to the audience, obtained a, general filence,
from the idea that they came forward to fing
it: but, to the furprize of the multitude, they
began the air of “ Rule Britannia,” which,
however grateful to the ears of Englifhmen,
was not the fong demanded ; therefore from
afenfe of indignity, at the aétors affuming
the quality of dictators, they ftrenuouily op- —
pofed it, and a violent clamor enfued. “ Rule
Britannia’ was, however, continued, notwith-
ftanding the loud oppofition, and the general
cry for ‘* God fave the King;” and after _
having gone throug this, amidft all the con-
149
fufion of groans, hiffes, and every noife of
difapprobation, one of the actors advanced
a ftep before the others, and infolently brand-
ifhing his arms, began the fong that had
been called for, which was then fung without
{pirit, and with the moft carelefs indiffer-
- ence. Tell me if a London audience would
have fubmitted to fuch an infult; or if a
metropolitan performer would have been .
hardy or imprudent enough to have hazarded
fuch mifcondu& -—No! methinks I hear you
reply : he would have been driven from the
ftage, and would never have dared
never
have prefumed to return, until repentance
and humility had led him forth, in due fub-
miffion, to offer his apologies.
We returned, yefterday, to the Lord
- Sheffield, and you will be glad to know that
we were accompanied by our friend Cleghorn,
who, in confequence of a new arrangement,
is permitted to join our mefs, fo that we have
again the profpeét of crofling the Atlantic
pleafantly ex guartette. Dr. Henderfonis lefs
fortunate, for, while we are, agreeably, af-
fociated to our former number of profeffional
“>
150
colleagues, he is left to make the paflage alone, |
or, perhaps, crowded with ftrangers in the
gloomy George and Bridget: nor do cir-
cumftances now feem to afford any probability
of a turther change, for both the appearance .
of ‘the weather, and the report of the hour,
feem to imply that we-have, at length, made
our final vifit on fhore.
To-day a fignal has been given for
the fleet to unmoor; and, in confequence of
this, the Lord Shefheld has dropped down
from the Mother-bank to the Eaftern part
of Spithead.—We have taken the precaution
of bringing our linen on board, wet from the
wath-tub, left we fhould be compelled to leave
it behind, for fhould the wind continue at the
point from which it now blows, we may be ~
to-morrow on our paflage.
15%
LEVER: XVI.
Convoy fails on the oth of December. Author promiles to
make notes on the paffage for his friend, if the fea will let
him. Splendid appearance of the convoy. It meets with —
tempeftuous weather, Defcribtion of aflormat fea. Ele-
_ ments hoftile to the expedition. Gale repeated. Lord
Sheffield left alone upon the ocean—Prevented from giving
relief toa finking fhip. A melancholy and afffitting fcene
enfues.
| Lord Sheffield, at fea, Dec. 3r.
Ar length we are at fea! the convoy failed
from Spithead and St. Helens, the day after
I fent you my laft letter, and I now lift my
pen to you upon the bofom of the wide
Atlantic. From the time of the ever mee |
morable attempt of the fleet to proceed upon
the voyage, in the month of November, the
adverfe winds, which had driven it back,
in fo fhattered and difaftrous a condition,
detained it, in harbour, until the gth inftant,
when it again put to fea under a ferene
| fky, and propitious breezes; but, notwith-
ftanding thefe favorable appearances, we
have, fince, had a moft haraffing and peril.
ous fucceffion of ftorms, one having, {carcely,
L 4
152
fubfided before it has been followed by an-
other, and I have now {fo ‘entirely loft my
confidence in the weather, that although
Iam fitting in tolerable quietnefs to write
to you, at this moment, I fcarcely dare hope
to finifh my letter before I am again tofled
from my feat, by a renewal of the gale—
feeling that the prefent may be only one. of
thofe fhort refpites, which, like the delufive
Intervals of convulfion, only prepare the body
for a more violent flruggle. —
It is now the laft day of the old year, and,
whichfoever way I look, my eye furveys
only an unbounded ocean. When we may
again fee land, it were difficult to conjecture,
but my pen fhall prepare for you fome xotes
of our proceedings, occafionally, when the
fea will permit me to guide it; and I will
fend them by any veffel we may chance to
meet on the paflage, or by the earlieft packets
after we reach the Welt Indies.
On the firft morning of our being at
fea, the weather was clear and mild, andthe -
whole fleet, confifting of nea three hun-
ia
163
dred veffels, of various magnitude and bur-
den, was afiembled in compact form, occu-~
pying a certain circle of the ocean’s furface,
and gliding {moothly on the paflage. It
‘formed one of the grandeft fpeétacles ever
beheld. Never fhall I forget climbing up
the fhrowds, as high as the main top, to en-
joy it in all its perfe€tion. The fun fhone; .
the fea was {mooth and undifturbed ; the air —
ferene. All fails were fet, and the veflels
being near to each other, the white canvafs
feemed fpread, in crowded continuation,
throughout the whole extent of the fleet.
Looking down upon the multitude of thips,
it created the idea of a whole nation moving
upon the waters, It was a proud emblem of
Britain’s glory. We appeared to command
the whole empire of the main; and the
profpeat, being calculated to excite flatter-
ing hopes of victory and fuccefs, could not
fail to be viewed, by every true Briton, with
delight. But alas! how delufive were thefe
aufpicious dawnings! We had advanced but
little on our paflage, before a dire reverfe
_fucceeded. The fun was now obfcured; a
thick fog overfpread the ocean; and the
154
whole fleet was fhut from our fight. Dark
clouds gathered around; the heavens fcowled
in terrific blacknefs ; the fhadowed fea {welled
with pregnant throes; and the fhips heaved
in fickening motion. At length the heavy
clouds burft into a roaring ftorm; the waters
broke into huge and tremendous mountains;
and the fhips rolled and pitched, in dreadful
agitation, upon the ruptured furface. All
feemed a mighty confli@. The boifterous
gale tore, in hideous found; the fleeting
clouds hurried before the wind; the rugged
~ ocean, in violent diforder, hurled mountain
Over mountain, and iffued forth loud-roaring
threats of deftru@ion. The hips, ftruggling
againft the wild and furious waves, were, at
one moment, tofled on a pinnacle to the hea-
vens, and, the next, plunged into a eloomy
deep, furrounded by dark and difordered
mountains ; whence there feemed no poffible
efcape. In an inftant they were again amidft |
the clouds, and again as fuddenly funk in the
dark valley of liquid hills: thus, alternately, |
threatening us with the danger of being hurled
from a fummit, or fwallowed up in a fright-
— ful gulf of the unfathomable ocean. Nor — q
155
had we, barely, ‘to encounter the common
dangers of the fea, but, from being amidft a —
crowded fleet, were, every inftant, liable to
_ the additional peril of running aboard fome
- neighbouring fhip, and being dafhed in pieces,
or driven, at once, to the bottom; and to
this we were equally expofed by the dark-
nefs of the night, and by a heavy fog. The
terror of thefe critical moments is neceflarily
augmented by the lively apprehenfions of
thofe who are but little accuftomed to the
fea: nor is this wonderful, for, where every
motion, and every found is calculated to ex-
cite alarm, he muft be more than a philo-
fopher, he muft be a failor, who can regard
even the lefs imminent perils with uncon-
cern, |
During a ftorm, the deep rollings of the
fhip, her deeper lurches, the thundering con-
cuffion of heavy feas againft her fides, the
hollow dreary found of the wind howling in
her fails and rigging, the hurry and clamor
of the fhip’s company, the clattering of
broken plates, difhes, and bafons, and the dif-
mal creakings of the mafts, bulkheads, and
156
other parts of. the veflel, all confpire to
create tumult and confufion, and to keep
alive the moft trembling apprehenfions, At
one moment the fhip is upfet, the next you
feel her ftrike upon a rock: fuddenly fhe is
fhattered to atoms ; or, foundering, finks to:
the bottom ; and, while you are abforbed in
thefe fenfations, a fea, or heavy fpray breaks
over the deck, a threatening wave beats in
the quarter gallery, or a rolling mountain
dafhes the ftern windows into the cabin.
The water now pouring upon you, from
every Opening, your fears are confirmed by
the confufion of the moment, and you feel
that the veflel is pofitively finking. It has
been my lot to experience, precifely, thefe
fenfations. Atone time I have hurried upon
deck, in the intention of throwing myfelf
into the fea, there to cling to a part of the
wreck, in the hope of outliving the ftorm:
At another I have fat in filence,upon my birth, ©
with the water creeping up to my knees, and,
hopelefs of being faved, have refolved to fub-
mit to my fate, and feek the deep, without
ufelefs bewailings. Quickly, the accident
has been repaired, and, in the moment of
He |
¥57
defpair, I have been greeted with tidings of
fafety. |
Often, in the midft of threatening ap-
_ pearances, and manifold difquietudes, you are
vifited by the carpenter, with the ‘* dead-
lights,” who, fixing them in the ftern win-
dows, nails you up in darknefs, as in a coffin,
and with as much Jang froid as men of his.
calling {crew up the bodies of thofe who are
adtually dead: at the fame time replying,
with unfeeling indifference, to your anxi-
ous and fearful inquiries regarding the ne-
ceflity of that ftep being taken, that it. is
“ only to keep the [pray from breaking the win-—
dows!” But I am fatiguing you with a de-
tail of what every one knows; what all have
read; and moft, who have been at fea, have
felt: let me, therefore, revert, from ftorms in
general, to our prefent voyage, in which you
will find, perhaps, more of novelty.
What fhall I fay to you of our great
armada—of our unfortunate, unhappy fleet!
Ere this can reach you, you will have had
‘many, alas! too many melancholy proofs of
158
the difafters which have befallen it. Did
ever the feas—did the heavens ever fight fo
cruelly againft an expedition! were ever the
elements fo decidedly hoftile to the great
and flattering efforts of man!
To convey any adequate idea of our
fituation would require the beft energies of
your own all-animating pen; but, as that pen
is but the reprefentative of your imagination,
call this in aid of an humbler quill, and you
may have fome conception of the peril and the
_horrors to which we have, already, been expo-
fed, and which we may ftill have to‘encounter!
After the violence of the firft gale, moft
of our f{cattered fleet, owing to the great at-
tention and exertions of Admiral Chriftian
and his officers, was again aflembled, and we
felicitated ourfelves in the hope of proceeding
to our place of deftination without further in-
terruption : but the turbulent mountains of a
difordered fea were, fcarcely, reduced toa more
tranquil furface, before the ftorm was renewed
with additional violence. Quickly we were
more {cattered than before. Many of the
fhips, unable to refift this fecond fhock, were,
=) aoa
159
now, much injured, and obliged to put back
into port.. Some, we fuppofe, again joined
the admiral, and others wholly loft the con-
voy. We were among the latter, but when
the weather cleared we fell in with a {mall
divifion of the fleet, with which we failed in
company, for feveral days. Further repeti-
tions of the ftorm again feparated us, and we
were tofled about, feeing no more than three,
fometimes but two, and often only a fingle —
fhip, until, at length, we found ourfelves quite |
alone upon the broad and mercilefs ocean.
_ Previous to our final feparation we wit- | |
nefled a {cene of a moft melancholy and dif-
trefling nature. Knowing the exquifite fen-
fibility of your feelings, on fuch occafions, I
ought to {pare them the fad relation, but that:.
it may exhibit to you one of the dangers of the
dea, in a point of view under which you may
not, perhaps,have contemplated it. Atthe moft
furious and terrific moment of the ftorm, we
fuffered the cruel affliCtion of feeing a neigh-
_bouring fhip in the utmoft danger of being
loft, without having the power of affording her
any relief, She hoifted a flag, and fired guns
160 3
of diftrefs; but the gale was fo dreadful, and
the fea running fo frightfully high, that it
was, totally, impcflible to give her affiftance.
We ftood towards her, and kept her anxioufly
in view, in the hope of adminiftering aid,
fhould the be fupported upon the furface
until the weather became moderate, Unhap-
pily the ftorm continued increafing rather
than diminifhing in violence. We looked |
fearfully on the thip, expeting every inftant
to fee her go to the bottom. She repeated
ficnals of diltrefs. We heard them, and faw
them, but were unable to cbey them. It was
a moft melancholy and awful crifis. We re-
garded her in anxious forebodings, examining
her, both with the eye and with the telefcope,
again and again. Her mafts were ftanding ;
her fails entire; and the rigging, apparently,
perfect ; but this, which to landfmen would
have feemed favourable, we di{covered to be
the very reverfe ; for, hence it was that our
beft failors formed the fatal conclufion that |
her fituation was hopelefs, and that fhe mutt
have fprung a leak! 7 :
We watched the heavens, and the wa-
161
_ ters in painful folicitude, but faw no relaxa-
tion of the ftorm. ‘Tremendous mountains
at one moment concealed the wretched fhip
from our view: at another we appeared to
be enveloped, together, in the fame dark and
difmal gulf. You will conceive our fenfa-
tions upon feeling that, in one inftant more, |
this deep pit of the ocean might be the grave
of every foul on board. Signals, denoting.
the extreme of danger, were repeated: the
fea rolled in terrific diforder: we bent our
“eyes in vain towards the veffel, leploring
her threatened fate, and our own inability to
prevent it! Night came on. We loft her in
- darknefs, and
beheld her no more!
Heaven grant that fhe may be in fafety !
But we all fear fhe cannot have withftood the
violence of the gale, which continued until
morning,:and throughout the whole of the
following day, with unremitted fury. Our
anxiety was alfo much augmented, from hav-
ing feen mafts, fpars, and other pieces of
wreck, float by the fide of our fhip, when the
ftorm abated. Until now I had regarded the
failing in company with a fleet as a kind of
VOL. 1, : M
162
oe call
focial protection; but henceforth I hall feel
no defire. to move in crowded fociety. on the
- ocean. Being alone, we now fuffer the rifk of
falling into the hands of the enemy ; but, com-
pared to our late fulfering, even the vileft of
French prifons lofes its horrors; for, to a man
of any fenfibility, what can be fo truly afflia- |
ing as to fee a number of his fellow-crea- —
tures plunged in the deepeft diftrefs, and
to feel himfelf withheld from tendering them
relief! Our folitary fituation muft prevent a
repetition of fuch a fcene: it alfo removes
the peril of our being injured or deftroved,
by other fhips, of which we had much dread,
while we were amidft the fleet: for it is not
only during a florm that there is danger of
one fhip running foul of another: it is
equally, and perhaps, even, more likely to-
happen when. the wind abates,—more pars
ticularly if this occurs, fuddenly, for then.
the thip, not being fupported by the refift-
ance of the gale, gives way to the heavy feas,
and, from difobeying the helm, is liable to
be driven aboard other veffels. Often, at this
moment, as well as during the. ftorm, the
fhips appear to have no weight, or depth of.
~
163
purchafe in the water, but they tofs and roll
about, at the mercy of the waves, like empty
barrels floating upon the furface. :
At the period of feparating from the
fleet we knew not our place of deftination,
and hence it became expedient to open the ,
fealed inftructions: from which we. -difco-
vered that Carlifle Bay, in Barbadoes, was
fixed as the general rendezvous of the fleet.
Here, therefore, ail our attractions lie, and to
this port we are endeavouring to fteer ;. but
adverfe winds, and unprofperous gales per-
petually oppofe our progrefs, It is now more
than three weeks from the date of our de=
arture, and we are yet beating about much
ap ) bi ei)
nearer to you than you imagine, having, hi-
therto, advanced, on our paflage, only ewelve
degrees of longitude, and three of latitude.
But in whatever latitude or longitude—amidft
whatever ftorms or dangers, I am always
Yours.
A
164
LETTER XVEL
The new year mid and of good promife. ivlus and Nep-
‘tune enraged againft the youthful deputy of time. Storms
and gales vepeated. Delight of affociating with congenial
friends. A good fhip fearcely perifbable at open fea.
Accidents and difafters of the Lord Sheffield. Contraft
between land/men and feamen during a ftorm. Apathy of
failors regarding the weather. Their peculiar degrees of
comparifen. Cool replies of an old fleward. Odd tumbles,
and poftures of the paffengers amufing to the failors.
Dinner feene during a gale. Superftition and prejudices
of failors. Whiftlng on board foip. Mother Cary’s
chicken. Blowing for a wind. Marks of the Lord
Sheffield having paffed the Azores.
At fea, Jani 24.
On concluding ‘my former letter, I had
pleafed myfelf with the expe@ation of not com-
municating another fentence of woe: indeed
Thad hoped not to refume my pen upon the
gins ses —
face of the reftlefs Atlantic; and ‘that, long ©
ere this, I might have addrefled you from the
‘ifland of Barbadoes ; but, unhappily, nearly
four more tedious weeks have been confumed,
in flruggling againft the united violence of
mercilefs winds, anda relentlefs ocean. New-
165
year,attended by gentle and fair-robed zephyrs,
prefented himfelf in {miles. His countenance
was benign—his every look befpake mildnefs
and tranquillity. We did funeral honors to
his tempeftuous father, without the affeCcta-
tion of grief; and greeted each other on
efcaping from his turbulent government, to
a milder reign. We now failed pleafantly
on our paflage. The breeze was fair—the
fea fmooth and tranquil—the fun fhone with
genial warmth—the hip advanced in fteady
motion ; and our cares were diflipated in the
hope that all our difafters were buried in the
grave of boifterous O/d—year. But, alas! our
cup was not yet full—the period of proba-
tion was not thus to end. Molus and ftern
Neptune, enraged at the mildnefs of the new
deputy of hoary time, poured forth all their
ire; and, tearing away the delufive veil, openly,
expofed our error, proclaiming, in loud ty-
ranny, that the young fteward of the winged
hours was not the milder fon, but the very
twin-brother of the late tempeftuous agent.
Our flattering profpec&t had not the duration.
of a day ! Ere morning dawned, dark clouds
obfcured the fun; the tumid ocean heaved
nye:
166
-
in threatening anguith, and, a thick ftorm’
gathering at the horizon, the winds and waves
rufhed into confli€, and, in all the dreadful
wrath of tempeft, pronounced themfelves the
meflengers of angry Gods!
From this moment gale has fucceeded to
gale, and ftorm to ftorm, defeating all our
happieft calculations ; ever: the beft eftablithed
prognoftics have deceived us, clouds fepa-
rating, a change of wind, heavy rain, and the
like, are no longer any indication of an abating »
_ ftorm. At one time, under the cleareft azure -
fky, and the brighteft, faireft fun, the dry’
wind tears in keeneft violence, as if rufhing,
from the parched heavens, to devour all the
fluids of the ocean: at another, loaded with |
moifture, it burfts into fudden gufts and
fqualls, heaving the thip, as it were, ’out of
the fea, and leaving her fufpended in air; and,
as if the fates had refolved to torment us,
whenever the wind, and the heavy waves
have a little fubfided, and we have looked —
for fteady: failing on our paflage, a breeze
has {prung up, from the: moft unfavorable
point of the heavens, which, though mode-
wioueaecilia
167
rate, for a moment, has quickly increafed,
again, to a ftorm. Seven long weeks, now,
have paffed, and with difficulty can it be faid
that we have had an interval of one diurnal
round, free from the perils of raging winds,
_ or of the huge and fhattered mountains there-
by engendered!
Did I not feel that I am fteering from my
friends, the cruel perplexities of this torment= |
ing voyage would lead me intoa vow—perhaps
fomewhat rafh—never again to intruft my.
body to fo fickle and mercilefs a guardian as
the fea. But not all her frowns or threats—not
all the perils of which fhe is miftrefs, nor
any thing fhort of death, can deter me from
again hazarding my perfon, in order to return
amidft thofe love. Novelty has many charms,
It is pleafing to regard fociety under all its
forms, and to contemplate the human {pecies
In every country and every clime; but even
in this, the great enjoyment centers in ‘the
endearing hope of returning, fome day, to be
ftationary amongft our friends; for to aflociate
with thofe of fimilar minds, whofe difpofitions
—whofe interefls and purfuits are congenial
M 4
168
with our own, is the greateft gift of fociety |
—the higheft boon of civilized life : beyond
this, the world has nothing to offer.
You, who know me, are well aware that
my mind delights not to dwell onthe dark
- furface of events. The feverity of the trial
is perhaps atan end. Undaunted, I yet look
forward to the happy termination of our paf-
faze; and, even, in our prefent fuffering, fee,
much of eventual good, for it will arm me
againft a multitude of future alarms ; already,
indeed, am I become fo courageous a failor
as to regard the recurring gales with pa-
tient firmneds ; and to look with tranquil eye
at the immenfe mountains which ftrike the
fhip, or the dafhing waves which out-top her
mafts: indeed I can almoft fancy that a good
_fhip is imperifhable at open fea; and could
you know what ours has borne, you would
be inclined to countenance the opinion. She
has amply proved herfelf to be what the
failors term a good fea boat ; and, from what I
have faid of our paflage, you will feel the force
of the technical expreffion that /be can live
in all weathers. The fhocks and beatings the
169
has withftood, are almoft incredible. Often
have I felt aftonithed that the huge feas and
saking winds have not torn every plank
afunder, and fhivered her to atoms. Her top-
mafts, yards, and different parts of the rigging
| have been carried away—her fails fplit—the
quarter boards ftove in: things have been
wafhed overboard from the deck—feas have
broken over her—fprays dafhed tn the cabin
windows—and various other accidents and
difafters have befallen her: yet all have been
repaired, and fhe till rides triumphant !
Often our party meet with drooping
countenances, and fit down in gloomy filence,
not recovering their {pirits throughout the
day! At other times they grow reftlefs and
irritable, and cannot remain a quarter of an
hour in the fame place. During the feverity
of the ftorm I have often remarked how differ-
ently the fcene has affected the minds of thofe
accuftomed, and thofe who are unaccuftomed
tothe fea, he failor, patiently obferves the
gale, lowers the yards and topmalts, furls
or reefs his fails, makes all, {nug, and thanks
the tempeft for a holiday :—heedlefs of the
13): ee
~
perils which furround him, he extends him-
felf in his hammock, or reclines his head on a,
plank or a locker, and, courting the tranquil
embraces of Morpheus, regards the howlings
of the florm as his peaceful lullaby. The
landfman, on the contrary, 1s reftlefs and
impatient—liftens in terror to the wind—and
fhrinks in agitation at every found : the dan-
gers that are, he magnifies,and his mind is
tortured in the creation of others, which, do
not exift. Each moment, to him, breeds_
new alarm. He afks a thoufand queftions,
dictated by athouland fears. He goes upon
deck—looks round with affrighted eyes—his
feet are unable to fupport his trembling body
_-—he clings to the companion door-way; and,
thence, ventures to fteal a look at the ocean and
its waves. His head grows giddy—naufea
feizes him, and he again defcends to the cabin
in extreme anxiety. He fixes himfelf in the
leeward corner —places his elbows on hisknees
‘—his head on his hands, and, concealing his
eyes, bewails his wretched fate! Suddenly he
again feeks the deck—-multiplies all the perils
of the moment—ftorms the captain and failors
(
with new queftions, all expreflive of his |
17t.
terror—faflens again to the companion door-
way—gazes at the mafts and {ails—obferves
the yards dip into the ocean—feels the yield-
ings of the fhip—imagines fhe is uplet—
fancies the mafis are falling overboard, and,
in each rolling wave, beholds a devouring fea,
DefiruGion occupies his mind ! He returns
below—impatiently feats himfelf—feeks relief
ina book—is unable to read—throwsaway the
volume—again takes it up, and again throws
it down: naufea returns, and he is feized with
dizzinefs and reaching. His bodily feelings,
now, augment the anguith and difquietude of
his mind, and, at length, as a remedy for both,
he proftrates himfelf in his birth ; but is fill.
wretched and comfortlefs——all reft is denied
~him—ficknefs and anxiety remain—and he
lies rolling, in fear and anguifh, to wear out.
. the fury of the ftorm !
Strong as this contraft may appear, I have
often feen it, fully, exemplified. The paf-
fengers in the Lord Sheffield, being of the hof
pital flaff, are moftly freth-water failors, and
a large majority of them can bear ample tefti-
mony to thefe.remarks. It has happened
E72
that I have, before, had occafion to make many
voyages by fea, but my ftomach affures me that
Ican never become a failor: yet, from this long
trial, in bad weather, I find that lam growing
courageous, for [now can witnels the feeming
apathy of older failors without furprize; and
can even liften to the returning gale, rather -
with regret for the delay it occafions, than.
with any apprehenfion, regarding the dangers
to which we are expofed. When, from the
tofling of the fhip, we are unable to walk, or
even to remain upon our legs, we feek a quiet
corner of the cabin—feat ourfelves—take up a
book—and, in patient reading, hope for better
weather. Occafionally we venture, in giddy
and {tumbling fiep, as high as the companion
door-way, and, looking round, amidft all the
rage of the ftorm, prophefy gentle breezes and
{mooth feas. In thefe vifits we often feel
wonder and amazement at obferving the car-
penter and his mates working, quietly, in-the
tops; and the failors hanging about the
yards and rigging, in feeming unconcern—
toffed-by each rolling fea from fide to fide, far —
beyond the limits of the fhip, and, not un-—
frequently, while feated at the end of the yard
MiP
dipped and drenched in the foaming billows
of the ocean! The indifference of fea-faring
‘men to the dangers around them is exem-
plified in every part of their condud, and,
even, in their common expreffions. Often
when we have felt the moft vivid appre~
henfions from the fiercenefs of the ftorm, and
the huge roughnels of the ocean, and have,
tremblingly, fought relief, by an appeal to the
captain or mate, we have met only a look of
unconcern, or, at molt, the laconic reply..% zz
blows frefo.”’? From their quaint and tech-
nical terms it is dificult for any one, unac-
cuftomed to the fea, to know precifely what
they meanto convey. ‘Their degrees of com-
parifon are peculiar to themfelves, and, at firft,
not eafy to be comprehended: taking the term
freth as the pofitive, they fay it blows fre/b—it
blows frong—it blows bard: and again, to de-
note the fevereft poflible gale, they affume hard
as the pofitive—add an oath to form the com-
parative, and augment that oath to conftitute
the fuperlative: thus, it blows 4ard; it blows
d: | bard by
Previous to this extremity we are. commonly |
hard; it blows d
2
furnifhed with an omen, by the captain com-
ey
DE
oe args aS
ing down, below, to dniat his long coat
for a fhort round jacket, and from this we al- _
ways prognofticate unfavorably, it being a
precaution which denotes bufy, and Peeps:
perilous employment.
Our fteward is a very old failor, tough
as the ropes of the fhip, and callous to every
alarm; and, being the perfon more immedi- -
ately about us, it moft frequently falls to his -
Tot’ to be teazed, with queftions regarding
the weather, the wind, and the fea; and the
fieady apathy of his feelings, together with his
exceflive fang froid and unconcern, have been
often fubjeGs of remark—-fometimes, indeed,
of vexation to us; for his utter infemfibility to
the circumftances, which called forth our cares
and alarms, have, occafionally, provoked us.
During one of our perilous ftorms, the wind
having fhifted to a point fomewhat lefs un-
favorable, although ftill blowing a terrific’
gale, the ufual queftion was afked—Well,
fteward ! how is the weather? “ Squally, [qually,
* gentlemen — the wind's coming about—be
“© fine weather foon.” - According to the feel-
ings of this old weather-beaten tar, the fevereit
i E75
‘tempefts that we had fuffered, had been only
{qualls, for, in the midft of the moft tremen-
_ dous gales, his reply had alsenys been “Sguadly,
4 little foually, gentlemen, ——“ Are we making
any way, fteward?” “Ob yes, fine wind, quite
_ free, going large, make jix or feven knots.” “But
furely we have too much of. this good wind,
‘tieiranth Ph". Ob-n0 _jine wind as can blow, gen-
tlemen— but a little fgually—ratber Sqeally.” is
The fhip’s company often reap much
amufement fromthelittle accidents—the ridicu-
lous tumbles—and the ftrange poftures which
the paflengers are thrown into by the unfteady
motion of the veffel: indeed we now feel fo
little alarm during a gale, that we fometimes
difregard its perils, and join in their {miles
and jokes at the ludicrous occurrences which
happen among ourfelves. Hogarth might
have feafted upon them. In the confufion of
motions, caufed by the heavy feas, if we at-
‘tempt to walk, we fetch way, and are toffed
to the fartheft fide of the cabin, in all the odd
_and uncommon figures that can be imagined:
and, often, before we can regain our legs
B55
the fhip yields to ancther wave, and we are
tumbled, in sh moft iddicranes manner, to the
oppolite fide, kicking, ftruggling, or crawling,
amidft a confufion of moving chairs, ftools,
boxes, and other furniture.
Our dinner ceremony is often rendered
a humorous fcene: at this hour the cabin
being the general rendezvous of the party,
we meet—crawl, trembling, towards the table
—-and tie ourfelves in the chairs. A tray is 7
fet before us, with deep holes cut in it for the
difhes, plates, and glaffes; the table and chairs
are lafhed to the deck; yet one or other fre-
quently gives way and upfets half the things
in the cabin! Prefently enters the fteward with
foup, followed by his little flave with potatoes ;
and the fervants with fuch other covers as there
may chance tobe. But {carcely are the things
upon table, and the fervants fationed, cling-
ing to the backs of our chairs, before a fudden
lurch of the fhip tumbles all into diforder.
Away go fteward, fervants, and little Mungo,
to the lee corner of the cabin : the foup falutes
the lap of one of us; another receives a leg
of pork; a third is prefented with a piece of
mutton or beef ; a couple of chickens or ducks
¥a
177
fly to another ; the pudding jumps nearly into
the mouth of the-next ; and the potatoes are
toffed in all directions, about the deck of the
cabin, One faves his plate ; another {tops his
knife and fork; fome cling to the table, think-
ing only of faving their perfons; one fecures
the bottle ; another, half fallen, holds up his
glafs in one hand, and fixes himfelf faft to his
chair with the other. Chaos is renewed!
every thing isin motion—every thing in dif:
order and confufion. At the next roll of the
fhip the fervants, ftaring with amazement,
again fetch way, and, with extended arms,
are tofled to the oppofite fide of the cabin,
where they cling faft, and remain fixed as fta-
tues, afraid again to move: and, although we
are lafhed in the chairs, ourfelves, it is with
difficulty. we can maintain our feats. “Plates,
difhes, knives, forks, and glafles clatter
together in all the difcord of the moment:
_ the fteward and his boy, crawling upon
their hands and knees after the dancing pota-
toes, the flying fowls, or walking joints, are
rolled over and over at our feet ; and all is dif-
‘order and confufion. The fhip now becomes
fteady for a moment; the {cattered parts of.
VOL. I. N
198
the dinner are collected ; and thofe who have
efcaped ficknefs, again attempt to eat. Some,
forefecing all thefe accidents, fix themfelves
in acorner upon the cabin-deck, and take the '
plate between their knees, fancying themfelves
in fecurity: but, quickly, they are tumbled; in
ridiculous poftures, to the other fide of the
cabin, {prawling, with outftretched limbs, like of
frightened crabs. Some, having no calls of
appetite, join not in the feaft, but lie fwing-
- ing up and down in their cots or hammocks ;
others remain rolling from fide to fide in their
births. Some cry out with fore bruifes ; fome
from being wetted with the fprays: one
calls for help; another relieves his ftomach |
from ficknefs ; while others, lamenting only
their: dinner, loudly bewail the foup, the |
meat, and the pudding. Some abufe the |
helmfman ; others the fhip; and others the
j
fea; while all join in a chorus of i impreca~
tions upon the wind. |
It has been, commonly, obferved ~ that :
failors have many prejudices and fuperfti- —
tions. They often predi& a gale, from cir- _
cumftances which feem to bear no king. of j
?
nro
connexion in the chain of caufe and effe&t.
The prejudice againft whiftling, on board
fhip, appears to be univerfal ; nor do I remem-
ber ever to have heard a failor whiftle in any
| fhip ; beyond the common wee-cw, whee-ew,
when he wants a breeze ; and paflengers are |
even called upon to pay a forfeit fhould they,
however inadvertently, be heard to whiftle.
be The fuperftition refpecting the flight of a
bird, which they call mother Carey’s chicken,
is peculiarly ftrong. This is a black {mall —
bird with long wings, which flies fwiftly and
very near the water. It only appears, they fay,
in ftormy weather, and however temperate
‘when the chicken is feen, they always predia,
from its prefence, an approaching gale. The
latter part of the obfervation we have but too
often feen verified, for the prefence of mother
Carey’s chicken, has, too frequently, been
-fucceeded by a violent ftorm: but in how far
the fact of this bird appearing, only, in fuch
weather may be corredt, we have had little op-
.- portunity of judging. "
| With pleafure I feel myfelf able to inform
you that we have fome indications of having
N 2
180
paffed the Azores. The temperature of the
atmofphere is become very genial to our
feelings, and, amidft all our toflings and buf-.
- fetings, we feem to have brought all-infpir-
ing May clofe upon the heels of frigid Chrift-
mas. ' A confiderable quantity of fea-weed
appears floating upon the water, and this, the
failors fay, is never feen to the north of the
Weftern Iles, it being fuppofed to proceed
from the gulf of Mexico, and not to be carried
beyond thefe iflands. We are {fteering more
to the fouth than our dire& courfe; but
we are glad to make /outhing at the expence
of a little qwe/fzmg, in the hope of beating out
of the latitude of the tormenting gales, which
have, almoft inceflantly, befet us, from the mo-
ment of our departure from England: but I
forget that I am tiring you with uninterefting
details, and that you may think my letter is
‘ growing as tedious as the voyage. !
Adieu.
/
en Sie eae
181
LETTER, Vi.
Lord Sheffield arvives at Barbadoes. Setting in of the trade -
wind. Striking change in the failing and working of the
Seip. - Lord Sheffield falls in with No. 4. tranfport, with
a band of mujfic on board—Jpeaks a Spanifb veffel—alfo ‘the
Britannia tranfport. Advantages of being on board a Weft
India foip. Author adopts a preparatory regimen to guard
him againft the effects of ciimate. Exclamation of one of
the author’s comrades, on being firft attacked with “ pr ickly
heat.” Diftant land vifible to failors long before it is to
others. Firft appearance of Barbadoes. . Lord Sheffield,
happily, prevented by the land breeze, from going into the
harbour at night. Scenery on entering Carlifle Bay.
Carlifle Bay, Feb. 19s
Riiics with me and give thanks! After
all our perils and dangers we are, again, fafe
at anchor, with terra firma in view! How
delightful an element—how cheering—how
animating is the folid earth! Even its grofler
part is now endeared to us, and we hail the
heavy foil in cordial fympathy, almoft re-
joicing that our very bodies: belong to dull
clay! During nine long weeks had we been
wandering, amidft a multitude of perils, upon
the fickle waters, without once obtaining even
m3
182
the moft diftant view of land: but of this
enough! Let me not recall, to your mind,
fcenes that we are endeavouring to forget.
Throughout the laft fortnight the horrors of
boifterous old Ocean have been affuaged, and
_ for two or three days, after writing my laft
notes, we were nearly becalmed. ‘The foam-
ing Atlantic became fmooth and tranquil as .
the fifh-pond of a pleafure ground; and,
while refting in the moft genial temperature,
we had, only, to lament the total abfence of
- that wind, which had long been fo frightfully —
abundant. ‘This placid interval was occupied
in making preparations for fair failing ; and
the captain flattered us with the hope of hav-
ing pafled the ftormy latitudes. The top-
gallant mafls were fet—the royals and fteer-
ing fails made ready—fithing lines were
thrown into the ftill fea—and an awning
prepared for the quarter-deck; all of which
were indications of fteady breezes, warm re-~ >
eions, and pleafant failing. Senfible that you
will feel your fthare of complacency upon the ~
occafion, I muft not negle& to note the event
of a moft joyous day—a day which will be
held in gladnefs by our party, fo long as re-
183
turning years fhall continue to place before
us the 25th of January. We were in lati-
tude 27° 49, the thermometer at 69°. The
morning was mild; the fea ftill and {mooth,
as a lake: all nature feemed huthed in filence,
and no wind could be felt. We rofe early,
and enjoyed a fteady walk on the, now, quiet
deck. The fun, protruding from the bofom
of a tranquil ocean, foftly ftole above the
horizon, and, fwelling into globular form,,
mildly, affumed refulgent brightnefs, and
{pread his genial rays around. From excefs
of motion we had now lapfed into perfec
reft. We contemplated the change with ad-
miration and delight: yet wifhed enough of
‘wind to carry us on our voyage. The ti-
moneer left the helm; and the fhip remained
immoveable upon the water. Cafting our
eyes over the filver furface of the fea, to be+
hold the beauteous rifing of the fun, we of
fered afpirations that fierce Eurus, in the pla-.
cid humour of milder Zephyr, might follow
in his train. Two ftrange veffels were ob-
.ferved to be in fight—a brig and a f{chooner. |
The former was dire@ly in our wake, and~
viewing this, amidft the univerfal ftillnefs
N 4
184.
that prevailed, we obferved, with furprife,
that fhe was moving, towards us, with full
fails. At this moment the fky darkened ; the
thermometer fell to 64; a gentle rippling
{pread, lightly, over the ftill furface of the
water; and, almoft imperceptibly, brought
us ----- a favorable breeze! It was from
the north-eafi; and fo foft and fteady that
{carcely did we feel the veflel in motion, ere
we. were advancing at the rate of. five knots
an hour! What we had fo long and anxioully
fought, was now arrived, and we moft cor-
dially hailed - ----- the trade wind! The
failors announced it in loud greetings: need —
I fay that we partook in their livelieft joy!
You will readily conceive, without expeGing
me to defcribe, cur feelings upon the occafion.
Never was a happier moment! All fenfe of .
our long fufferings vanifhed, and we were in 7
perfect raptures on this glad event. Indeed
we had much caufe to think ourfelves for-
tunate on being faluted by the favoring
trades in their very earlieft latitude. This:
was a moft grateful period of our paflage,
and, together with the weather we have fince
experienced, has, in fome degree, compen-
185
fated former evils. ‘The temperature orew
cooler than it had been during the few days
ofcalm. The breéze frefhened, and all hands
were bulily occupied in preparing and fetting
all. poffible fail; to obtain the full benefit of
this great and conftant trader’s friend, Quickly
new canvafs {tretched from every point of the
mafts and yards, and the fhip, winged with
five additional fails, widely fpread her ex-
- panded pinions to embrace the breeze. What
_achange ! tranfported, at once, from the perils _.
of fevere tempeft, to the fineft, f{moothef
failing !. During feven tedious weeks we had
not known the wind from the point we
wifhed ; and we had been perpetually befet
_ with ail the dangers of raging ftorm: Now,
the breeze was all we could defire! Sicknefs,
and other uneafy feelings were difperfed; we
exercifed, freely, upon the deck ; and failed on
our paflage, almoft wane perceiving the,
veficl move ! So rapid, indeed, was our pro-
grefs, that the fhip feemed to feel no refift.
ance, but to fly, uninterrupted, through the
water !. ae
The crowded fails now remained night
186 a
=
and day. No change: no new arrangement
— occafional bracing, only, was required !
We ftood before the wind, and in all the de-
licht of fair weather, and fine failing, made
from 160 to 200 knots within the failor’s
day-—from noon -to noon. In fuch feas, and
with fuch a wind, the fhip’s company might
have flept; leaving the helmfman only, to
fteer the veilel’s courfe. ‘The delay, the dif-
ficulties and dangers we had met with, ferved
but to augment the value of the ever-con-
ftant trades, and to render them even more
enchanting than: we had hoped. The fteadi-
nefs of this friendly breeze, and its certainty
of duration, likewife enhanced its charms.
So truly delightful did we find it, and fo
pleafant were the wide ocean, and the .wea-
ther, that, had not former ficknefs, with the
torment of repeated gales, already confirmed »
my abhorrence of the fea, I know not but I
might have been led into the belief that dif-
comfort and a failor’s life were not ftridily
fynonimous ales | ;
It were wrong to adulterate thefe happy -
tidings—or to chequer this letter with any
4.
=
circumftance not perfe&ily in unifon with the
joy we felt on meeting our excellent friends
-~--- the trades. 1, therefore, referve fome de-
tached occurrences of the voyage for my next
letter, in order not to interrupt the harmony
of this; which I with’ to conclude, as it be-
gan, with happily terminating the voyage.
In the courfe of our paflage, we fell in,
occafionally, with ftragglers of our, unfortu-
nate drmada, and remained in company with
them, until we were again feparated by a
ftorm) a thick fog, or the night. A few days
before we.reached Carlifle-bay, we were joined
by No. 4. tranfport, with troops, and a band
of mufic‘on board. This was a happy ren-
contre, and afforded us a moft pleafing no-
velty. The day had been fine; the evening
was mild and clear; and gentle Cynthia, with
her filver beams, feemed to aid the general
ftillnefs that prevailed. Every thing con{pired
in favor of the mufic, and the notes of the
_various infiruments, coming to us acrofs the
water, were fo {weetly foft and melodious as
to convey the idea of celeitial harmony. We
liftened in raptures, and, feeling quite en-
188
chanted with her delightful founds, we hoped -
to continue in the fociety of our new com~
panion, during the remainder of the voyage :
but the night concealed us from each other,
_ and, when Aurora again opened the gates of
the eaft, we perceived, with ftrong regret,
that we had, already, to lament our harmonic
aflociate. |
When any ftrange veflel appeared in
_ fight, it, commonly, excited fome apprehen- |
fion, from our being alone, and badly armed ;
but, fortunately, the wide ocean feemed to be
the path, only, of friends. In latitude 37 we
defcried a foreign fail, but we quickly ‘difco-
vered that fhe was not of warlike afped,
and, therefore, were defirous of {peaking her,
in the hope of afcertaining our longitude.
On approaching her, for this purpofe, we
hoifted our enfign as a fignal ; to which fhe
replied by a white flag, with a red ftripe, 1 im-
plying that fhe belonged to Spain. We were
pleafed to find her an ally ; and, employing
a Portuguefe, whom we chanced to have on
board, to hail her, we difcovered that fhe was
from the Havannah, bound to Malaga; but :
189
this was all the information we could obtain,
for, unluckily, our Portuguefe failor was not
able to render his queftions, concerning the
longitude, intelligible to the Spaniards.
On the morning of the day before we
made the land, we fpake the Britannia tranf= —
port, and learned that, during the preceding
night, fhe had been boarded by a floop of
war—one of the Barbadoes cruizers, and had
received information that fhe was within fixty
leagues of the ifland. This intelligence was.
peculiarly opportune, as we were in no cer-
tainty regarding our longitude, and muft have
proceeded in fear, during the night, or have
created further delay by fhortening fail.
: o ~
It was a great advantage tous being on
board a Weft India trader, for the fhips built
for this fervice, being intended for a hot cli-
_thate, are conftructed with much attention to
the comfort and accommodation of pafflen-
gers, and have all the conveniences of ports,
{euttle-holes, window-blinds, awnings, Sc.
from the want of which, many of the tranf-
ports were, diftreflingly, clofe and oppreilive.
PGS
‘
As foon as we had entered the trades, our
ports and fcuttles were beat open, and we
had a free circulation of, air, through the ca- |
bin, night and day. The windows were
likewife opened; and, as we failed before the
wind, the Venetian blinds admitted the breeze, »
while they excluded the rays of the fun.
‘From thefe means\we were kept. pleafantly
cool, below; and, when upon deck, we were ©
protected by a canvals awning, under which |
we had a fhaded walk, ventilated by a free
current of air. Having feveral bathing tubs,
on board, we had, likewiie, the comfort—the
luxury I might fay, of plunging into’ fea-
water every morning; and, in order not to
meet the torrefaGtion of thefe bugning re-
gions, with all the rigid fibre, and ftrong
- vafcular aétion of Europe, I have adopted
the plan of ufing a very abftemious diet, and
have fubmitted to a fhort preparatory courfe
of medicine. (My comrades {mile at the pre-
caution, but, although doctors may difagree, .
I fhall hope, on fome future day, to exhibit,
to you, the good effects of this early difci-
pline. Wine, ’tis faid by many, will counter=
adi the heat of the climate, Let thofe take
191
it who think fo—my faculties have not yet
‘enabled me to comprehend the ingenious
doctrine which would employ fire to extin-
euith heat—nor has my fagacity taught me
how to quench a flame by the addition of
oil, or zther !
Ll
\
Many days previous to our arrival in
Carlifle bay, the increafe of temperature had
brought out upon our {kins that troublefome
eruption called prickly Leat. Our bodies were
covered with it, and the irritation and itch-
ing it occafioned were intolerable. Our com-
-panion, Dr. Cleghorn, being an early fufferer
from it, demanded of thofe who had been
accuftomed to the Weft Indies, how long his
fkin was to. be thus tormented? So long,
good doétor, as you remain in health, was
the reply! Upon which, with additional rub-
bing and fcratching, the doctor jocofely, al-
though fomewhat impatiently exclaimed, in
the accent of his country, ‘‘ Faith captain,
and would you carry us into never-ceafing ;
torment? "Bout fhip and tack for England
immediately.”
IQ2
On the morning of the froth inftant
the boatfwain defcried. the higheft points of —
Barbadoes, when land! land! was inftantly
echoed throughout the fhip, to the great joy
of all on board; and to the boatf{wain’s pro-.
fit, who, being the firft that founded the
glad tidings, became entitled to the cuftom-
ary fee of a bottle of rum, or brandy. It
required the eye of a failor to diftinguith the
all-delighting terra firma, amidft the clouds :
the paflengers looked, and looked in vain! a
nearer approach of yet fome leagues, was ne-
ceffary, to render it vilible to the eye of a
land{man, and when we, at length, difcerned
it, the earth appeared, only, as the more fixed
of the clouds—~forming a dark ftreak a little
above the horizon. This ftreak grew, gra-.
dually, more and more difting, till, breaking —
as we advanced, it became unequal, and af-
fumed the form of mountains; and, at length,
the appearance of land. Soon we difcovered
‘it to be the northern point of the ifland of.
Barbadoes; but Carlifle-bay is to the fouth:
we had, therefore, to coaft round nearly
half the extent of the ifland, before we could
-
3
reach the harbour. This delay afforded us a
pood opportunity of viewing the ifland. We
{tood near in, and could obferve, diftinély,
the objects on fhore. I took my feat upon
deck, and with an anxious eye, aided by the
telefcope, minutely, examined every thing
we pafled. The mind, ever ative, generally
forms to itfelf fome image of the things we
hear {poken of, before any opportunity oc-
curs of feeing them. Often the picture is:
very incorrect and extravagant; but, upon
the prefent occafion, I was pleafed to find that
I had formed to mylelf a tolerably accurate
copy of the Welt Indies, from the defcrip-
tions | had heard and read. In particular the
appearance of the fields, and of the flaves,
labouring with the whip at their backs, had —
been painted, very correctly, in my imagina-
tion; for, I now faw them, in reality, what
my mind had long reprefented them.
Our coafting view of the ifland was not
the moft favorable; for a nakednefs, which
Barbadoes does not poffefs, appeared to pre-
‘vail: nor did the general verdure feem to
equal our expectation: houfes, huts, wind-
Vu. I. ra)
1QO4
mills, and fugar-works, although plentifully
. diftributed, in patches, about the ifland, did
not prefent the fcenery, nor the air of rich-
nefs and comfort we had expected. There
feemed to be a want of inclofures, and a
deficiency of trees and hedges. The build-
ings looked bare and. expofed, and there was
a want of that protecting fhade, for the cattle,
which our feelings had deemed requifite in
fuch acclimate. ‘The houfes, devoid of orna-
ment, and without chimnies, conveyed the
idea of barns: nor could we aflociate them
in the picture of wealth and abundance which
had been called up in\our minds. We la-
mented that the numerous windmills, houfes,
and other buildings we faw, were not more
protected by the deep fhading foliage of tro-
pical vegetation. Had a variety of trees been
inter{perfed, or had the branching filk-cot-
ton, or ftately mountain-cabbage, contributed
their fhelter, the appearance of comfort had
been preferved, and the picturefque effect
rendered more ftriking. The land is con-
fiderably varied, being hilly and unequal ;
and from the general view, in failing along
the coaft, it appears to rife into two or three
195
- ditting tables, which elevate themfelves ab-
ruptly, one above another.
We made the entrance of the harbour,
juft as the fun was finking into his watery
bed, for the night; and it was in debate whe-.
ther we could fetch in before it grew dark,
when it was fuddenly decided againft us, by
the wind fhifting and coming round direély
a-head, ‘This we learned was the land breeze.
In thefe regions the trade-wind blows from
the fea, during the day; but this commonly
fubfides, as the fun goes down, and a contrary
breeze fets in, from the land, which continues
to blow throughout the night.
Being prevented from coming to anchor,
we ftood off and on, at the harbour’s mouth,
until morning, when we difcovered that we
had no caufe of regret in this additional de-
lay ; for all the beauties of Carlifle-bay were,
now, exhibited to us—not only under. the
fill light of the morning, but brightened by
the golden rays of a rifing fun. Had we
gone in at night, we muft have loft a moft
, enchanting profpea&t; and the lofs had been
O 2
ro6
irremediable, for, after the eye had been ac-
cultomed to the rich foliage, the houfes, the
towns, the fields, and all the peculiarity of
tropical fcenery, the impreffion we now felt
could never have been excited. The mind
was, at this moment, in a ftate to enjoy them:
the novelty was great, and every object ftrik-
ing. We had been long at fea, and the
eye fought, eagerly, the fhore. Land was
anxioufly defired: the view of it opened to
‘us very favorably ; and, from all the various
circumftances confpiring to its improvement,
the profpect was rendered more delightful
than it could have been at any other period.
The harbour is a fine open bay, the
whole of which, with its varied fhores, were |
before the eye: many fhips were riding at
anchor, and a multitude of boats and {mall |
veflels were failing and rowing to and fro.
The two points of land, at the entrance, ferve |
as a defence; while they augment the beauty
of the harbour. On one of them appears a
formidable battery, together with an exten-
five barrack for troops: on the other is a fine
grove of mountain cabbage, and coco nut
197
trees. Through the fhipping at the bottom
of the bay, are feen numbers of neat cot-
“tages; among which are interfperfed va-
rious tropical trees, affording the protecting
fhelter of their umbrageous fummits, On
the fouth-weft fhore ftands Bridge-town, the
capital of the ifland; and on the north-eaft,
upon high ground, is a new and handfome
quadrangle of ftone barracks, with the mili-
tary hofpital and other buildings of St. Anne’s
Hill. Nor is the profpec confined to thefe
limits. It extends ftill wider, and in addition
to the water, the fhipping, and the numerous
other objects, immediately before the eye,
the back ground, beyond the bay, and above
the town, forms a rich and extenfive land-
fcape. The land is feen above the houfes,
the trees, and the topmatts of the fhips, rifing
to a great diftance, clothed in all the richnefs
of its tropical apparel. WVerdant fields of
fugar, of coffee, and of cotton; fine groves,
dark with luxuriant foliage ; country villas;
clufters of negro huts, windmills, and fugar-
: works, all prefent themfelves to diverfify
and enliven the picture. Such was the fcene
that appeared before us as we failed into
03
198
™
Carlifle-bay. You, whofe idol is nature, in
all her forms, will feel a friendfhip for the
evening land-breeze which fo happily length-
ened a voyage, before too long.
Adieu. -
e990
LETTER XIX.
Ceremsny of cleaning and painting Weft India Joips. Feelings
of failors refpetting the failing of their veffels. Tobacco an
-univerfal cordial among failors. Specimen of economy in a
young tar. Negro economy. Baptifmal ceremony on crof-
fing the tropic. Author and his comrades werk at the capa
flan. 4n accident happens to Dr. Cleghorn. Harpoons
and other inflruments prepared for firiking fifo. Peculiar
habit of porpoifes. Sharks, dolphins, and flying jifh ufed as
food. Stupidity of the Shark, Splendid appearance of a fhoal
of dolphins. Remarks upon the firuciure, and motion of
the wings of the flying fifh. Small flying fifh an indication
of approaching the land. Temperature of the water of the
Atlantic. Lights produced by the foip at night. Small
rainbows upon the furface of the ocean. Appearance of the
fun and moon at fea, within the tropics. Weft India
Sky. Evening clouds. gris
Barbadoes, Feb.
P REVIOUS to our coming into harbour,
from our late voyage, the fhip’s company
‘was, for feveral days, bufily occupied in clean-
ing, painting, and adorning the veflel; and
we learned that it is a general cuftom to
drefs the Weft India {hips in a new jacket,
during the fteady failing of running down the
trades, in order that they may appear clean,
04
200
and in the beft condition, while remaining in
the harbours of the-iflands: and that in this
the failors have a degree of pride, which excites
a general {pirit of emulation—every captain
wifhing to render his veflel the obje@& of at-
traction and admiration. In confequence of
this cufiom the Weft India harbours become
quite a drawing room of fine-drefled mer-
chantmen. Here each fhip exhibits her beft
apparel, and vying with the others, holds
out her lures to catch the eye of every
beholder. The decoration is univerfal, From
head to.ftern, not a plank, a maft, a yard, nor
{carcely a rope efcapes ; each receives a full-
drefs coat of paint, or is made new with a
black varnith of tar. The painting of the more
prominent parts of our fhip being completed,
the progrefs of cleaning, and new-drefling
was extended to fuch minutiz as to become
very highly ridiculous. A painting mania
feemed to have feized the whole crew, and
every one was up to his elbows in greafe, tar,
and paint. The capftan—the quarter-boards
-——the binocles—the hen-koops—every thing
around us was bedaubed, The cannon—the
hand-lpikes—the capftan bars—the barrels
201
—the buckets—the very handle of the pump
—all were painted—all put into one unitorm
of black and yellow. Not an iron ring, a dolt,
nor a nail was negle€ted—not even th- cannon
balls efcaped—and, that nothing ihenul’ be
omitted, the inner furface of the water buckets,
regardlefs of health, were drefled with their
poifonous coating. Never was fy{tem more
univerfally obferved; nor idle excefs ren-
dered more confpicuous. Not aninch, nor an
atom, but appeared in Lord Sheffield’s livery ;
black and yellow prevailed from the higheft
point of the mafis, down to the very water’s
edge. Nothing can convey to you a ftronger
idea of the fine fteady failing, in a trade wind,
than to know that the outer part of the thip
is painted at fea, by men hanging in ropes, at
her fides, while fhe is proceeding with full
fails, on her paflage.
The fatlors have another, and yet ftronger
pride, which refpects the failing of their vef-
fel: like every man’s horfe,—every failor’s
fhip is the beft in the world, — every captain
commands the quickeft failing veffel of the
fleet; and 4e would ceafe to merit the honor
202
of a jacket, who could be brought to acknow=
ledge, however true it might be, that his fhip
was a bad failor: for, however manifeft this
fhall appear, an excufe is never wanting.
She is in bad trirm—fhe is too. much aftern
—too much ahead—is too deep—too light
——the breeze is not from her point—tfhe fails.
beft upon a wind—before the wind—the makes
beft way in a gale—ina light breeze: fo
that be the weather, and the attendant circum-
ftances whatever they may, here is a /ide-qwind
for each of them; and a fon of the ocean is -
always expert enough to appropriate them in.
favor of his veffel, fo as to guard her, at —
every point, again{t the. imputation of being —
a dull failor. It happened that our fhip was
found not to advance in proportion to the
breeze ; it was, therefore, deemed expedient to
give her a new main-top-gallant maft; and this
‘was put up, in the night time, with as much
fecrecy as if the failure of the whole expe-
dition had hung upon its difclofure. We, af-
terwards, difcovered that it was done, in the
dark, not to conceal it from the paifengers,
only, but from the fhip’s company of a veffel,
which happened, then, to be failing near us ;
=
203
and with which the Lord Sheffield was, fe-
cretly, vying in her progrels.
Among other circumftances, perhaps as
little worth noting, but which amufed an
idle moment upon the paflage, was a re-
markable inftance of cconomy, which we
obferved in a young Scottifh failor. The
tars have, univerfally, a fondnefs for tobacco:
to deprive them of food—of drink—nay, even
of their loved grog, is not {fo diftrefling to
them, as to debar them of their cud. To thofe
who are acquainted with the properties of this
_ plant, and with the habits of the Turks refpect-
ing opium, this will not feem wonderful ; for
its effets being thofe of a {trong cordial, they,
who frequently ufe it, will neceflarily feel a
great degree of languor from being deprived
of it. From the unufual length to which the
paflage was extended, our failors’ ftock of to-
bacco had become exhaufted before they
reached Barbadoes. ‘They, confequently, fuf-
_ fered depreffion of fpirits, reftleffnefs, languor,
and all the ufual indications of debility. They
felt, feverely, the abftraGtion of their accuf-
tomed cordial—and would have fubmitted to
204
many facrifices to have obtained it. At this
moment of diftrefs and want, the wary Sandy
Cameron opened his ftore, and, in the general
eagernefs to ‘procure it, retailed tobacco to
his mefimates at an enormous profit. Some
pawned their fhoes, fome their fhirts, fome
their jackets: fome gave their food, fome
their grog—every thing was devoted to pur-
chafe this filthy herb. Sazdy became a per-
fect marchand de tabac—and was, thereby,
enabled to accumulate clothes and property
to no trifling amount. Four ounces of to-
bacco were given for a jacket valued at feven
or eight fhillings—other articles of ufe or ap-
parel were bartered at a fimilar rate ; but, from
fome accident, it was, at length, difcovered
that young Cameron’s ftore was, moftly, the
produce of a very filthy piece of ceconomy ;
Sandy having collected it, by picking up the
old cuds of his meffmates, during the paflage
—which he had dried and preferved for fu-
ture ufe; fo that the failors were now paying
extravagantly, for the privilege of again fuck-
ing, what had already been between their teeth.
This dirty occurrence happening on
205
bird led the captain to mention a habit,
fometimes practifed among the negroes in
the Weft Indies, which is not lefs diftin-
-guithed for its filthinefs and ceconomy. The
blacks, both men and women, are very fond
of rum, and fometimes, when they can only
procure a fingle dram, the wife, as a mark of
tendernefs and attachment, {fatisfies- herfelf
by warming her mouth with it, and, affec-
tionately, employs that as a glafs for convey-
ing the rum to her hufband; who receives it,
from her, in due kindnefs, beak to beak, as
pigeons feed their young; and thus, with ex- |
traordinary ceconomy, the fingle dram is made
to ferve both man and wife; and fometimes
it is, even, faid to go through the mouths of
the whole family.
A day or two after we had entered into
the latitude of the trade-wind, we had to crofs
the tropic; which was an occafion of great
mirth and feftivity. The ufual ceremonies
were performed—the ufual honors paid to
old Neptune, and all was holiday. The great
deity of the ocean, accompanied by his queen-
tib of the waters, afcended from the deep,’.
6
206
in order to welcome us to his tropical abolt,
and to witnels the baptifm of fuch of his
children who had not, already, done homage
at his font. This is a ceremony which is,
commonly, thought to be ludicrous: but, in’
the, way it is conducted by the rough tars, it
becomes a very dirty and fevere procefs. It
is extended to every perfon on board, who |
has not, berore, been within the tropics, vary-_
ing only in its mode of application, and in
its feverities.
The old failors are careful to difcover, in
the courfe of the paflage, which of their mefl-
mates have not undergone the difciplineof this
tropical baptifm ; and on this day, all who are
marked for the ceremony, are led upon deck,
one by one, blindfolded. In this ftate the
young failor is made to feat himfelf upon a
fmall narrow plank, laid acrefs a large tub of
falt water, or upon the edge of the tub itfelf,
and, in this perilous fituation, they adminifter
to him a long and ridiculous oath; then “
offer him a glafs of gin, by way of cordial,
which he is compelled to drink, and finds it
to be only a glafs of falt water. They, then,
ae
207
{mear his ‘face with a nafty compound of
_greafe, tar, and ftinking oil, taking care in
the operation, to force fome of it into his
mouth. The next ftep is to fhave this off,
and the razor employed, for this purpofe, is
commonly a piece of an old iron hoop, beat —
full of notches. The filth being in part
{craped from his chin, with this rough inftru-
ment, the baptifmal procefs is completed by
the plank, upon which he is feated, being
_ duddenly withdrawn, and the young initiated
plunged head and ears into the tub of water ;
where he is made to lie kicking and {prawl-
ing for a confiderable time ; after which he is
’ permitted to rife from his briny birth ; when
his eyes are unveiled—-he wathes his coun-
tenance, and iffues forth a privileged fon of
old Neptune—/ree to range in the tropical
feas. If he contends, or offers any refiftance,
he is treated with three or four dippings, in-
ftead of one; he, therefore, finds it beft not
be refractory, and {mothers his wrath in the
fecret pleafure of witneffing a fimilar procefs
impofed upon the reft of his mefimates.
Every one, whether failor or land{man, is
208
called upon to undergo this chriftening ce-
remony, as the tafk of initiation. |
As paffengers we were honored with a.
viftt from father Neptune and his fpoufe, to
welcome us to their tropical dwelling, and to
announce to us the propriety and neceffity
of the baptifmal vow: but we compromifed
the difcipline of dipping and fhaving, by of-
fering the tribute of a few gallons of rum; —
and petitioning the beauteous Amphitrite .
to intercede in our behalf. Neverthelefs, we
were taught that it would be prudent to re-
main, quietly, in the cabin, during this briny
chriftening of the failors.
The fervants were led by curiofity to
vifit the deck, hoping to witnefs the ceremony _
without becoming, themfelves, the objedts of
it: but they were fpeedily prefented with a
complete wafhing of fea-water, and obliged
to beat a hafty retreat, in order to efcape the
fhaving : one of them, who was a great cox-
comb in his drefs, grew violently enraged,
and felt highly- indignant that the failors
_@
209
fhould dare to wet and fpoil: his clothes ; and
in his anger he ran down below to arm him-
felf with a {word, then returning upon deck,
{wore that he would run the firft man through
the body, who fhould throw water upon him, ae
again: but fcarcely had he faid the words, -
and brandithed his fabre, before feveral buckets .
Y
of water were dafhed upon his head and
fhoulders, by fome failors who had placed
themfelves in the main-top. The-.poor man
: ftormed violently, {wore, ftamped, and vowed
_ vengeance. The failors, laughing at his im-_
potent rage, continued to pour down bucket
-after bucket. He was unable to climb up
the fhrouds; and they diverted themfelves at
his wrath and diftrefs, until, at length, feeing
- that they defied all his threats, he again re-
turned to the cabin, loading them with impre-
cations, and, loudly, vowing vengeance, un-
_ mindful that his beft remedy was to change his
clothes, wipe himfelf dry, and let his choler
fubfide. Cuftom is abfolute, and, in the
hands of fuch hardy minifters, it were folly to
oppofe its defpotic government.
VOL, I. P
210
After reaching the latitude of the trade
wind we pafled very little of our time in the
eabin ; nor, throughout the whole paflage, did |
we negle& to take our exercife upon deck,
wheneverthe weather would permit; oceafion-
ally alfo in order to divert the fad indolence of
our inactive life, we gave affiftance at the cap-
ftan, or in working the pump, or pulling the
ropes; but one of thefe moments of induftry
had nearly coft Dr. Cleghorn his life. A large
block, expofed to exceffive purchafe in getting
up one of the malts, broke from its rope as
we were heaving at the capfian bars, and,
flying to.a great height with violent rapidity,
-ftruck the doGor on the head in its fall.
Happily he was not within the circle of its full
force, or, beyond all doubt, he had been killed
on the fpot. Moderate as it was, the blow
being received from only the edge of the block,
in its fall to the deck, it rendered him infenfible
for fome time, and cut an alarming wound
through the integuments quite to the bone.
On récovering from the comatofe tate, which
had followed the blow, he had no knowledge
how the accident had happened; and when the
OIL
broken block was prefented to him he was
ftruck with furprize at his efcape. The
wound has fince healed kindly, and the doc-
tor fuffers, from it, no other inconvenience
than, like poor Patrick, wearing, in his fore-
head, an honorable and warlike fear.
During our fine tropical failing we were
frequently amufed in obferving the immenfe
fhoals of porpoifes, dolphins, and flying fith,
which, from time to time, aflembled about the
fhip. The frightful fhark and fpouting gram-
pus alfo made us frequent vifits. |
Harpoons and other inftruments, called
gigs, or grains, were prepared for the purpofe
of taking thefe inhabitants of the ocean.
They are formidable weapons of iron, made
with barbed points, and at the time of ufing
them, a wooden handle, loaded with lead, is
affixed to them, together with a long cord; —
and they are ftruck into the animal while he
1s fwimming at the fide of the fhip. If they
penetrate beyond the barb he is unable to free
himfelf from the inftrument, and is turned
LBiiye4
212
upon his back, by the weight of the lead in
the handle, and confequently has no power
toefcape. Often the iron points are bent dou-
ble without entering the animal; and fome-
times they are thrown out by his ftruggles,
from not having penetrated deep enough, and
leave him to efcape with his wound, This
we faw happen to a large porpoife while he
was {wimming amidft a fhoal of his fpecies fo
numerous as to darken the fea; when, inftant-
ly, every individual of them abandoned the
fhip, not to protect or confole their wounded
brother, but, according to the unfriendly habit
of thefe hideous and rapacious animals, to
purfue him as their prey: The flying fith,
the fhark, and the dolphin, are all ufed, by the _
failors, as food. ‘The shark is a moft ftupid
animal—unlike other fifhes he difregards be- _
| ing feen, and flies not from people who appear
before him, nor is intimidated at things fal-
ling near to him, or even upon him in the
‘water. Does this arife from a deficiency of
nervous fenfibility, or from a confcioufnefs
that he is armed againft the objets he com-
monly meets ? By throwing out to him oce
213
cafio nally a piece of fat pork, he may be in-
duced to continue, at the fide of the fhip,s
while a rope, let down into the water, is paf-
_ fed over his head, and drawn tight round his
body in order to take him a'ive, and if it hep-
pens to flip off, he is flupid enough to re-
main until it is fixed a fecond time. We
caught a very large one in this manner ; and
alfo took a {maller one with the hook, which
the failors confumed as delicate food.
The fhoals of dolphins are often fo im-
menfe as to convert the fea into a kind of rich
and dazzling mine, in which the lively inter-
changes of colour out-rival all the fplendour
of brilliants and gold.
The novelty of immenfe multitudes of
fith darting from the fea and taking wing in
the air, you will believe attracted our attention.
To fpeak of fithes flying might feem to be a
traveller’s tale; we were, therefore, led.to a
minute inveftigation of the fa@. We watched
them with a {ceptical eye, and, at many dif-
ferent times, before we admitted even the
evidence of our fenfes. It appeared poflible
ie
214.
‘that their fhort fight might be the effeG of a
fingle mufcular effort, f{upported by the expan-
fion of long membranous fins ; and this opini-
onbecame ftrengthened from obferving them, ©
occafionally, touch the water, as if to gain new
force from its refiftance, and then rife again,
and fiy as faras before. But, upon regarding
them with fri attention, we obferved their
wings employed, like thofe of birds, in flut-
tering motion as they flew. We faw them
change their courfe, from a diredt line ; we
perceived them rife and fall in their flight,
to furmount the waves they met, and re-
marked that they often continued their pro-
grefs to the diftance of two or three hundred
yards, without touching the water: at length
two or three of them flew on board the fhip,
and, ftriking againft the mafts, fell dead upon
the deck ; this afforded us an opportunity of
{atisfying our doubts ; and after very minutely
examining their external form, we further
affured ourfelves, by carefully difleGing them ;
and we have now no hefitation in faying
that fifhes- - - - - do fly! The wings are
very long,: arifing from behind the gills,
they lie folded at the fides nearly the whole
215
length of the fith, being formed of feveral
fine cartilages, and a thin tranfparent mem-
brane not unlike the wing of a bat. At the
infertion, near the gills, they are narrow,
but become confiderably wider towards their
extremities. When ufed in flying they
are raifed from the fide, and expand-
ed, by the cartilages feparating from each
other, and ftretching out the membrane which
covers them. They are not connected with
the body by extenfive mufcular infertions ; but
are united byaligamentous membrane. Two
{mall mufcles pafs into each wing, terminating
in ftrong ligaments. ‘Thefe ferve to give
them the command of the wing, but are not
calculated to fupport long and powerful ac-
tion. The fith is about the fize of a herring.
They are caught, in great numbers, near Bar-
badoes, where they are pickled, and falted, and
ufed as a very common food.
The day before we made the land we
met with fhoals of flying fith of much fmaller
fize than thofe we had commonly feen—not
jarger, indeed, than fprats. On rifing out of
the water, in large bodies at atime, they caufed
P 4
216
a found like the {plathing of rain, which being
heard by the captain, he inftantly exclaimed - 3
“ Ha! bravo! land, land! here are the little
fplafoers, we can’t be far from the land !’—
This {mall race of fying fith, it feems, is never
obierved at any great difance from the fhore,
ner in the deeper parts of the Atlantic: where-
fore their appearance is aflumed as a fure
prognoftic of a {peedy approach to the land.
We obferved upon the paflage, that after
the great heat of the day, the water of the At-
lantic was fomewhat warmer than the circum-
ambient air. In latitude 14°, at 10° o'clock
at night, the thermometer {tood at 72%, and ©
upon being put into a bucket of avéiysdovinn
fea water it rofe to 73.
Like all young failors we felt our atten-
tion ftrongly attraéted by the phenomenon of ©
the lights produced in the fea, at night, from
the thip beating her way through the water.
We often witnefled them in a very ftriking
degree, and were, trequently, led to the fore-
part of the fhip to view them in their brighteft
- fplendour; for, there, the fhip appeared to be
207.
failing through liquid flames. On every fide
the lights were vivid and beautiful, but at the
- forecaftle we faw the pitchings and plunges
of the veffel ftrike out wide flafhes, refem-
bling fheets of fire. The great noife at the
head of the fhip, likewife added to the effea,
and it required very little help of the ima-—
“gination to create a belief that we, actually,
heard the fparks and crackling of more de-
fiructive flames. At the ftern thefe lights ap-
pear as if they poured from the veffel in bright
ftreams of fire, extending to a confiderable
diftance in her wake.
We drew up buckets of water, occafion-
ally, to the deck, and found that by agitating ©
it, either with the hand ora piece of wood, we
could excite the fame luminous appearance:
but, after difturbing it for a fhort time, this
effet ceafed ; and no degree of agitation was
fufficient to renew it in the fame water. You
know the various theories and fpeculations
which have been offered in explanation of
this phenomenon, I need not, therefore, {well
my letter by repeating them. |
218
The beautiful appearance of the iris reft-
ing ina number of {mall circles upon the fur-
face of the ocean, alfo frequently attrafted
our notice. Thefe were only feen near the
fhip, and it will occur to you that they
arofe from the minute particles of water, beat
off by the veilel, dividing the rays of light,
and caufing them to fall upon the fea in the
form of rich and diftin& rainbows. They
are often extremely brilliant, and are feen,
as it were, lying in numbers upon the
water.-
- The very beautiful rifing and fetting of |
the fun and the moon were the frequent
and admired fubje&ts of our contemplation,
Viewed from a Weft India fea, the furface of
thefe orbs does not appear, like a mere plane
fixed in the heavens, as in Europe, but their
_ convexity, and globular form are feen very
diftin@ly. When rifing they appear as de-
tached globes protruding from the deep: at
fetting they refemble diftin@ fpheres finking,
or rather dropping, divefted of their rays,
into the ocean. , :
219
The moon is brighter than in England,
and reflects a clearer light. When only a
few days old the whole orb is vifible—not
decked in uniform brightnefs,:as when it is
at the full, but with the great body in fhade,
while the horned edge, alone, is drefled in ue
filver.
The appearance of the weftern fky was
likewife an object of novelty tous. By day
the whole canopy is one fine azure expanfe,
bright and unclouded ; but, at evening, dark
mountainous clouds accumulate, and, gather-
ing into deep heavy mafles, impend in awful
majefty of form over the horizon.
220
LETTER 2
Author continues to addrefs bis friend, but cannot fend away
his letters. Lord Sheffield vifited by anxious crowds in
gueft of news. Perilous flate of St. Vincent and Grenada.
Guadaloupe reinforced. French gafconade. Enemy's fri-
gates and cruifers infeft the coaft of Barbadoes. Lofs of
the Leda frigate. Brunfwick detached with troops to
St. Vincent. The loft Stanley fafe in Carlile Bay, alfe
nine or ten other tran[ports of the Decembe- convoy. Au-
thor and bis comrades go on fhore at Barbadoes. Remarks
upon the novelty of the fcene. Vifit to an Americen flave
Soip - ~ - toa Liverpool Guinea-man.
Carlifle Bay, Feb,
Ty purfuance of my promife I Rill dire@ my
pen towards you, notwithftanding the uncer-
tainty when I may be able to fend away my let-
ters. On account of the repeated difafters of
the flect, and the fad delays that have occurred,
you will believe that we, who have had the
good fortune to complete our paflage, are
extremely anxious to make known to our
friends that we are in fafety:: but, as though
the diftaff of the fates were thrown out to en-
tangle us in vexation, no opportunity offers
of conveying intelligence to Europe. A packet
221
is eftablithed to fail, from England every
fortnight ; but none has reached Barbadoes,
for many weeks pafi ; and the inhabitants are
looking out, with anxious folicitude, for fe-
-yeral which remain due: nor is it expected
‘that any mail will be made up for England
until fome of thefe arrive.
Should any merchantman fail, I will avail
myfelf of that opportunity to forward to you
this letter, together with thofe written upon
the paflage : but of this I have very little hope,
as no unprotected vefiel can venture to fea
without extreme peril, on account of the ene-
my’s cruifers. |
The period is critical and important.
News from each fhore of the Atlantic, to its
oppofite, is fought with the moft lively an-
xiety. While youare looking to us for tidings
of ourfelves, of our {cattered fleet, and of en-
| dangered iflande ; we, unable to relieve your
fufpenfe, are looking to you, with no lefs
| anxiety for intelligence of England and of
| Europe. The avidity for news, which, here,
| difplays itfelf, is vivid beyond all I can exprefs.
' gebg
Our anchor was not dropped, indeed we had >
{carcely entered the harbour before a variety
of people came out, in boats, to meet us, and,
fcrambling on board, afked the news in fuch
hurried folicitude as f{carcely to wait a reply,
before each queftion was followed by another.
What news? what news? what news of the
‘fleet? what news of England? what news
from the Continent? were all uttered in fuch
rapid fucceflion, that the only anfwer we
- could properly make, ferved as a general re~
ply - - - “None! we have been nine weeks at
fea, and have every intelligence to feek—none
“to give.”
~ Our abr upt vifitors were extremely dif
appointed, when, inftead of being able to {a~
tisfy them, they foundthat we wereequally fo-
licitous to demand news of our convoy, of
the Iflands, and of the failing of the packet
. 4
|
for England. You will readily imagine that —
from the critical fiate of Europe, on the one
hand, and the perilous fituation of the Iflands,
onthe other, together with the long interrupted
communication between chan each party,
partaking all the are of the period, was
a3
more defirous to afk queftions, than to offer
__ replies. |
We could impart nothing fatisfactory ;
and the information we acquired was not
very gratifying. ‘The following were the
_ leading circumftances. which we collected at
the moment. Grenada, we were told, was,
almoft wholly, in pofleflion of the brigands :
St. Vincent in imminent danger from the
Charibs: and Guadaloupe, if not St. Lucie,
fo ftrengthened by reinforcements from France
as to bid us defiance. As a fpecimen of
French gafconade, I may tell you what is
reported to be the prefent language of that
infolent democratic tyrant, Victor Hugues;
“ Let them come ! let the general lead hither
his troops ! we will invite them afhore ; nay !
we will lay planks to their veflels that they
may not wet their feet in vifiting us, and
when we have them here we will teach them
who is Victor: we wiil give the officers their
favorite toaft, and accommodate them with
fpeedy promotion.” Such is faid to be the
idle boafting of this man, in confequence of the
- Yeinforcements lately arrived from, Europe.
224.
Two French frigates, and hordes of pri-~
vateers had been cruifing, with too much fuc-
_cefs, againft our f{cattered tranfports and mer-
'chantmen. ‘The frigates ‘had lately been
daring enough to look into the harbour of
Carlifle Bay, and the Charon of 44 guns
armed en flute, one of the earlieft arrivals of ©
the Spithead fleet, had been fent out, with La
Pique frigate, in purfuit of them.
The Leda frigate, employed to convoy
a fleet of victuallers from Cork, had, been
upfet in a gale, and, unhappily, funk to the bot-
tom, with all hands on board, feven only
excepted. Thefe had fince arrived in one of
the vidtuallers, at Barbadoes; but feveral of
the convoy, left unprotected by this fatal ac-
cident, had been captured by the enemy’s
cruifers.
The commander in chief was Rill un-
- heard of; nor was there any accurate intelli-
gence of the fleet, although a few Maggling
veffels had arrived.
This was the fum of the news that greet-
225
ted our arrival at. Barbadoes. But gloomy
as it was, the diftrefsful feelings it produced
were, in fome degree, alleviated by our learn-
ing, foon afterwards, that the Brunfwick,
which had been ordered to proceed with
troops to the relief of St. Vincent, had ar-
rived moft opportunely to fave the ifland ;
and that the Stanley, which had failed with
the firft fleet in November, and was fuppofed
to have been loft, during the difaftrous ftorm |
which arofe in the channel, had arrived fafe in
Carlifle bay, on Chriftmas day, being the only
fhip of the November convoy that made good
her paflage ; and, further, that nine or ten of
‘the veflels of the December convoy had
reached Barbadoes in fafety, with ME yraEgS On. >
- two thoufand troops on board.
_The inhabitants, who beft knew the
{tate of the neighbouring iflands, were ex-
tremely anxious to fee thefe troops employed ;
and, on this account, they were looking out,
with double anxiety, for the arrival of the
commander in chief.
The delight we felt on the glad occafion
VOL. I. Q
226
of fetting our feet, again, upon terra firma was
more exquilite than I can exprefs; and it was
highly augmented by the novelty that fur-
rounded us. The houfes, the ftreets, the
people, the fruit, fifh, and vegetables, the
trees, the fields, every thing before us, was
new. ‘The very means of labour and amufe-
ment were novel, and all combined to indicate
the change we had made—all befpake our re-
. moval from a northern to a tropical latitude,
We gazed on all we met, and all we pafled.
Objects which, at other moments, had been
trifling and unimportant, now called forth
our attention. ‘The eye of curiofity fuffered
nothing to efcape. Ideas crowded upon our
minds in fuch rapid fucceffion, that the confu-
~ fion of chaos feemed to bé renewed. The
- univerfal metamorphofis that furrounded us
prevented our digefting the fcene, which pre-
fented itfelf, into any thing of order or ar-
rangement: yet was the whole uncommonly
gratifying ; and, without being able to dif.
criminate, we contemplated, in a fort of
pleafing reverie, this feeming change of
worlds, Complex as are the feelings of fuch
a moment, I have often withed that they
227
were lefs fleeting, or could more frequently
recur; for, upon fuch occafions, the mind
feems to enjoy unparalleled delight; and to
dwell with rapture, on objets which, under
other circumftances, would pafs unheeded
by.
We took our umbrellas in our hands, by
way of parafols, but found lefs occafion for —
them than we had been taught to expec ; for
although the heat was greater, by feveral de-
erees, in Bridge ‘Town than in the harbour,
‘we did not feel, from it, any degree of lan-
guor or oppreflion. A pleafant breeze coun-
teracted the ardent rays of the fun ; and, at -
our firft vifit, we rambled, for two hours, about
the town, to the barracks, and into the fields, —
with far lefs inconvenience from heat, than I
have often experienced in the clofe and ey
days of England.
It will be quite within your recolleGtion
~ how long, and how much I have wifhed to
vifit the fhips trading to Africa, and to witnefs
perfonally, the manner of treating thofe poor
beings of fable fkin, who are torn from their
Q.2
928
native home, by the iron-hand of commerce, |
to be tranfported to a home of flavery; and |
you will be pleafed to learn that in this with,
I have had an early opportunity of being
gratified. A flave fhip, belonging to North |
America, and bound to Savanna in Georgia,
had arrived from the coaft of Guinea juft be-
fore we came into harbour, and was lying
very near to us, with a cargo of negroes on
board. Fearing fhe might fail for America,
and being unwilling to lofe the firft occafion
that offered, of adminiftering to a curiofity
which beat flrong in our breafts, Mafter, Cleg-
horn, and myfelf took off a boat, the morning
after we came to anchor, and went to vifit
‘the Guinea-man. We confidered ourfelves .
fortunate in finding both the mafter and mate
of the thip dif{pofed to thew us every civility,
and to indulge us in ready reply to the
queftions which our curiofity fuggefted.
A little before they made Carlifle bay
thes had been taken out of their thip, and —
detained a whole night, on board an Englith
frigate, while their papers were examined,
under the fulpicion that the veflel and cargo
229
were Dutch property : but the property being
proved to be American, they were releafed, —
and the fhip is now taking in water, prepa-
ratory to purfuing her voyage down to the
ftate of Georgia.
The cargo confifted of a hundred and
thirty flaves, of whom two-thirds were males,
- and one-third females. The two fexes were
kept feparate by a partition, or bulk-head,
built from ‘fide to fide, acrofs the fhip; allot-
ting the qwaift to the men, and to the women,
the quarterdeck. A great majority of them
- were very young, being from ten to eighteen
years of age. We were pleafed to obferve
that an air of cheerfulnefs and contentment
prevailed amongthem. In a few only we re-
marked defpondency, and deje&tion of coun-
tenance. Both fexes were without apparel,
having only a narrow band of blue cloth put
round the waift, and brought to faften before,
fo as to ferve the office of the fig-leaf, worn
by our firft parents, in the fruitful garden of
“Eden. As we walked through the different
groups of them, they fixed their eyes upon
us, with feeming curiofity; and fome of the
23
230
boys, like thofe of fairer fkin, were inclined
to be playful, and to exhibit youthful tricks.
One or two of the females, unchecked by the.
referve of education, occafionally glanced an
expreflive look, or difplayed a figniticant
gefture. Many of them had marks upon the
fkin which appeared to have been made with
a cutting inftrument. Thefe, we learned,
were diftinctive of the nation to which they
had belonged. Some had their teeth cut, or
filed to fharp points, giving them a very
hideous, and canine appearance. ‘They looked
well fed and healthy, although fome of them >
had an eruption, called the cra-cra upon the |
{kin.
Their fleeping births were the naked
boards. Divided into two crowded parties,
they repofed, during the night, upon the
bare planks below—the males on the ‘main-
deck—the females upon the deck of the off
cabin, In the day-time they were not al-
lowed to remain in the place where they
had flept, but were kept ‘moftly upon the
open deck, where they were made to exercife,
and encouraged by the mufic of their loved
banjar, to dancing and cheerfulnefs,
234
We faw them dance, and heard them fing.
In dancing they fcarcely, moved their feet,
but threw about their arms, and twifted and
writhed their bodies into a multitude of dif-
gufting and indecent attitudes. Their fong
was a wild and favage yell, devoid of all
foftnefs and harmony, and loudly chanted
in harfh monotony.
‘Their food is chiefly rice, which they
prepare by plain and fimple boiling. At
the time of mefling they fquat round the
bowl in large bodies, upon their heels and
haunches, like monkies, each putting his
paws into the platter to claw out the rice with
his fingers. We faw feveral of them ems
ployed in beating the red hufks off the rice,
which was done by pounding the grain in
~ wooden mortars, with wooden peftles, fuf-
ficiently long to allow them to ftand upright
while beating in mortars placed at their feet.
This appeared to be a labour of cheerfulnefs.
They beat the peftle in tune to the fong,
and feemed happy; yet nothing of in-
_, duftry marked their toil, for the pounding
was performed by, indolently, raifing the
Q4
232
peftle and then leaving it to fall from its own
weight. ‘ ion
Iam moft happy to conclude my report
of this vifit by informing you that we difcover-
ed no marks of thofe horrors and cruelties, {aid
to be practifed on board the fhips occupied in
this fad traffic of human flefh ; and which are
reprefented as fo frightfully augmenting the
manifold ills of flavery. Chains, ftripes, and
feverities did not feem to‘have bee nin the
catalogue of means: employed in conveying
thefe poor Africans to their American mafters.
Our minds, neceflarily, fuffered in contemplas __
ting the degrading practices of civilized beings
towards the lefs cultivated brethren of their
. {pecies: but the eye was not fhocked by the _
abufes of tyranny and inhumanity. The
comfort and health of the flaves were pro-
- moted withevery care. Being fond of wath-
ing in cold water, they were encouraged to
the free ufe of it ; and their perfons, as well as
the whole of the fhip, were kept remarkably
clean. They were plentifully fed; and, in
the day-time, were difperfed aboutthe fhip, fo
as to be prevented, as much as poflible, from
4
233
affembling together, in clofe unwholefome
crowds. Mirth and gaiety were promoted
among them: they were roufed to bodily
exercife, and care was ufed to divert their
minds from dwelling upon their change of
ftate, ane lofs of home: and I may truly Jay,
that. a more general air of contentment
selgned among them than could have been
expected. While many were dancing and
finging, and playing together, others were
giving their affiftance in working the thip;
and, we even learned that feveral of them had
made themfelves highly ufeful on the paflage,
and were already becoming expert failors, |
They all feemed to regard the mafter of
the veflel more in affection than fear; and,
although ftri@ly obedient, they did not ap-
pear to be at all under the influence of terror.
Crowded in fome degree, they, neceflarily,
mu{t be, particularly in the place where
they flept; but every attention was paid
to prevent the injury which might derive
from it; and to keep them in health,
We went down below to fee their place
-
234+
of repofe, where the hard planks formed one
common bed, and each individual employed
his arm as his pillow. The men could not
ftand between decks, without flooping ; and
when they lay down, the boards were fo
clofely fpread, that it was fcarcely poffible to
fet a foot between their naked bodies. They
were always taken upon deck early in the
morning,and the fleeping birth was thoroughly .
cleaned and wafhed; but ftill it was highly
offenfive to European olfactories ; and plainly
indicated, that were it not for the great atten=
tion paid to cleanlinefs and ventilation, difeafe
muft inevitably be generated. Their naked-
nefs is, perhaps, theirbeft fecurity ; for although
they had neither bed-clothes, nor perfonal °
~ covering, nor any kind of baggage, or furnis
ture in-the place, we perceived that all the —
cleaning and airing employed could not fub-
due the ftench created by their fleeping toges
ther in fuch crowded heaps.
Although they are fond of wafhing, and
feem to have fome fenfe of perfonal cleanli-
nefs, they have none of cleanlinefs of place,
sor of common decency : for, notwithftanding
235
the firiteft injunctions againft it, they cannot
always be prevented from the filthy habit of
depofiting their natural excretions upon the
{pot where they fleep.
The wool of their heads forms a thick —
cover for vermin, of which they have, com-
monly, a {warming abundance; therefore to
prevent this, and to further the rules of clean-
linefs, all their heads had been fhaved: but
this, we were told, had deprived them of one
ereat fource of occupation and amufement;
it being a fingular pleafure to them to fit down
in pairs, for hours together, to enjoy the
focial feaft of picking each other’s heads, and
afterwards twifting and plaiting the wool into
a variety of forms. |
The pleafure we had experienced from
finding thefe poor blacks in a ftate of ap-
parent contentment, and, with refpec to the |
reported cruelty, enjoying a degree of compa-
rative comfort, was fucceeded by feelings of
horror, on hearing the relation of an infur-
rection which had taken place, on board the
fhip, previous to their failing from the coaft of
236
\
Africa, Many of the negroes being detained
on board for a confiderable time while the
cargo was completing, and lying, during this
period, within fight of their native fhore, from
which, and, perhaps, from their wives and
families, they were about to be torn for ever,
had grown indignant even to defperation, and
rifing upon the fhip’s company, murdered the
mafter and mate, who then belonged to the
veffel, and wounded feveral of the men: nor
was it until after a very fevere and bloody
conteft that they were overcome; when the
ting-leaders were put to death, as an example
to deter others from again revolting. One
of the failors fhewed us three defperate wounds
which he had received on the face, the breaft,. .
and the arm, from the bal ae of an axe, with
which one of the blacks had, jutt Nt oi
ftruck off the captain’s head.
The next day, after our vifit to the
American flave- fhip, an opportunity offered of
feeing one of our own nation—a Liverpool
Guinea-man—a fhip of much greater burden,
fitted out exprefsly for the trade, with a fuffi-
cient number of hands and of guns an board
237
to protect her again{t the enemy’s privateers ;
and calculated for a cargo of five hundred
ilaves. ,
We were taught to believe that we
thould find the negroes much better accom-
modated in this, than in the American fhip;
but we could not obferve that the fuperiority
_ was either great, or firiking. Although the
--veflel was larger, the number of flaves was
more than proportionally greater. In other
refpedts the accommodations were nearly
equal. The Liverpool fhip was kept re-
markably clean ; but the American was not lefs
fo ; and, between the decks, the American thip
was the moft commodious, being higher, and
having more room in proportion to the cargo,
from which the flaves had the advantage of
being lefs clofe and confined during the
night. 7
In the fleeping place of the Englith
veffel we could not ftand up without flooping
almoft double :—in each the men and women
were kept feparate—in both their food was
‘Tice; and ia both they flept naked upon the
6
238
naked planks, crowded together like fheep itt
a fold. | 3
The moft ftriking difference that occurred
to our obfervation was, that the flaves of the
Liverpool fhip were of blacker and fmoother —
fkin than the others,and all of them free from
that dirty eruption, the cra-cra; but upon
our noticing this better appearance of one
cargo than the other, the apparent fupe-
riority was inftantly explained to us, by the
obfervation that the Liverpool veffel had
reached her deftined port, and that her cargo
had been made up, for market, by having their
fkins drefled over three or four times with a
compound of gun-powder, lime-juice and oil
—a preparation which not only deftroys the
cra-cra, and gives the fkin, a fmooth, black,
and polithed appearance, but likewife renders it
fleck and fine: and it was further remarked’ —
that the cargo of the American fhip would
be made to look as well, before they reached
the port where. they were to be expofed for
fale.
239
LETTER XXI.
Author and his comrades live on board foip at Barbadoes.
- Accommodation of a Barbadoes tavern. Method of cooling
tiquors. Porter better than in England. Tavern wait-
ers. Black and mulatto hofteffes. Privilege of female |
attendants. Bar-maid at Mary Bella Green's. Law
concerning the children of flaves. Women of colour not dig-
nified with the title of miflrefs. Converfation with two fea
male flaves.
| Carlifle Bay, Feb.
From the details I gave you of our te-
dious voyage, you will learn, with furprize,
that we ftill continue to live on board fhip.
But to this we have many inducements. It
is much cooler in the harbour, than it is in
Bridge Town ; we are much lefs annoyed with
mufquitoes; and, from our belonging to the
St. Domingo ftaff, and being in daily expec-
tation of receiving orders to proceed to that
ifland, we are, at all moments, ready to move;.
and without the rifk of leaving cur. baggage
behind ; moreover, by living on board, while
_we are detained to windward, our fea-habits
are continued, and perhaps we may thereby
240
avoid the tormenting ficknefs of a fecond
voyage. | ve
We have a regular mefs eftablifhed.
Every morning we go or fend to market for
provifions ; and our domeftic arrangements
are better regulated, and in more of com-
fort than if we were on fhore Occafionally
we dine, and {pend the whole, or part of a
day at Bridge Town, but we never fail to re-
turn on board to fleep. 3
We find that the accommodations of a
Weft India tavern, although not precifely what
a Bond-ftreet lounger would expect in St.
James’s-fireet, or a high-fed alderman in the.
city, are by no means defpicable: and you
-know that I am enough a foldier, and.a tra-
veller, rather to court the varieties we meet,
than to repine, and regard them as hardthips,
becaufe they are not, in every feature, the fame’
as we are accuftomed to in England. — ,
But you have defired to be told of thefe-
varietics.as they occur, and [ have an early op-
portunity of trying your patience.—Our
_ firft dinner on fhore was at a tavern in Bridge
Town, kept by a mulatto woman, Mary
Bella Green. Plenty prevailed. The crowd-
ed table {moked with fith, a piece of boiled
beef, a pepper-pot; a turkey, fome roafted veal,
and a-quarter of mutton, with feveral dif
ferent kinds of puddings, and quite an affort-
‘ment of vegetables, of eight or nine dif-
ferent f{pecies—European and tropical. Our
liquors were—moft excellent bottled porter,
good Madeira, tolerable claret, and very fine
Noyeau. In the defert we were fadly difap-
pointed, for, inftead of the fine tropical fruits
we had expected, three or four of the very
common and inferior fpécies were fet before
us, unripe, and bad in quality: viz. goavas,
bananas, and four-fops, with fome tough, and
bitter fhaddocks—to any, and all of which,
the commoneft apples, or goofeberries, of
' Europe had been preferable, But Barbadoes
is not an ifland abounding in the finer fruits
of the climate, hence we do not judge of the
delicious productions of the Weft Indies by
this ill-chofen fample.
Our party, for whom we had ordered
“dinner, confifted of nine perfons, but. upoa
VOL. I. R
=
24.2
coming to table, we found covers for fifteet,
and learned that, inftead of giving us a private
dinner, as we had dire@ed, they had put us
into a large public room, and ferved a kind of
table d’hote. Not being prepared for this ar-
rangement, we_remonftrated againft it, and,
with fome difficulty, prevailed in having the
extra-covers removed ; but we foon perceiv-
ed that we had gained little by thus inter-
rupting the cuftoms of the houfe: for they,
dire@tly, fpread another table in the fame
room, and, fetting down the fix ftrangers clofe
by us,. divided the dinner, they had dreffed,
between the two patties.
In making out their bill for payment,
they do not detail the feparate articles of the
dinner, the number of bottles of wine, the
different plates of fruit, 8c. as in England,
but put down the whole fum, under the three
general items of dinner, wine, and fruit; and,
at any houfe you are accuftomed to ufe, if
you call, occafionally, in a morning to reft,
or to take fhelter from. the fun, or rain, they >
give you a glafs of lemonade, or of coco-nut
water, with a “very welcome,” and confi-
der themfelves rewarded, by the payment
243,
you make when you take dinner at the
hhoufe. Nor is the demand for this at all ex-
- Sravagant, except, in fo far as regards the
the bad fruit. We paid adollar each fordin= ~~
ner ; the fame for the wine ; and half a dollar :
_ for the defert. |
They make the wine and porter very
pleafantly cool, by putting the bottles in
wet cloth bags, and placing them in the
_open windows, for fome time before din-
ner; taking care to fprinkle them, occafion-
ally, with water, as they ftand expofed to
the breeze. A very rapid evaporation is
thus produced, and, confequently, far more
heat carried off, than. by merely fetting the
bottles cold in water. The porter is fo high-
_ ly improved by the climate, and rendered
fo pleafant, by this method of cooling, as
to be very fuperior to any that is drank in
England. |
The attendants of the table are very nu-
| merous, black and yellow, male and female—
perhaps too numerous to ferve you wéll: for
_ they are badly regulated, and the duty of one
R 2
/ 244
being the duty of all, it is not regarded as the |
particular duty of either, and, confequently,
is apt to be left unlieeded. Lach, being idle
and ina@ive, waits for another to ftep be-
fore him, when any thing is called for ;
and, although you have a crowd of fervants
round you, it is difficult to obtain what you .
want. | :
The females are, ufually, of erect fi-
eure, and ftately carriage, but they move in
all the languor of the climate. They ap-
pear without fhoes and ftockings, in a
~ fhort white jacket, and a thin fhort petti-
coat. They wear a white turban on the
head ; but the neck and fhoulders are left bare.
Silence is not efteemed a neceflary qua-
lification among them, for they often join,
with great freedom, and a fad drawling accent,
in the converfation of the table. This will
appear to you but little confiftent with the
referve and abject forbearance of flavery;
but it is the confequence of the public fitu-
ation in which thefe women are placed, and
the familiarity that is commonly ufed towards
‘them by ftrangers—to any, or all of whom
}
ey’
they are the very obedient, obliging, and mof
convenient humble fervants.
On firft making inguiry, refpeQing
the accommodations of the houfe, we were
_furprized to learn their extent, and the facility
with which they are attainable. A bed
may be had: for half a doilar per night, or
three dollars per week ; and, for an additional
fum well underftood, the choice of an attend-
ant to draw the curtains.
The hoftefs of the tavern is, ufually, a
black, or mulatto woman, who has been the
favored enamorata of fome backra * man; from
whom fhe has obtained her freedom, and per-
haps two or three flaves to affift her in carry-
ing on the bufinefs of the houfe; where the
now indulges in indolence, and the good
things of life, grows fat, avd feels herfelf of
importance in fociety. To thofe who, in
compliance with the Highgate privilege,
court her particular attention, in preference
to the more youthful attendants around her,
the is f{uppofed not to be violently cruel.
oie * The negro term ufed for white,
R35
24.6 ae
It is to her advantage that the female at-
tendants of her family fhould be as handfome
as fhe can procure them. Being flaves, the
only recompence of their fervices, is the food
they eat, the hard bed they fleep on, and the
few loofe clothes which are hung upon them.
One. privilege, indeed, is allowed them,
which, you will be fhocked to know, is that
of tenderly difpofing of their perfons; and
this offers the only hope they have of pro-
curinga fum of money, wherewith to purchafe
their freedom: and the refource among them
is fo common, that neither fhame nor difgrace '
attaches to it; but, on the contrary, fhe who is.
moft fought, becomes an object of envy, and
is proud of the diftinction fhewn her,
One of our attendants at table, appeared,
both from her converfation and behaviour,
to be very fuperior to her degraded ftation.
She had nothing of beauty, nor-even pretti-
nefs of face, but the was of good figure, and
of refpectable and interefting demeanor, and,
in point of intelle&, far above her colleagues.
Together with gentlenefs of manner, and an
eafy, pleafant addrefs, the poflefles a degree
247
P of underftanding and ability which claim re-
{pe&. In principle, and in fentiment, fhe
appeared virtuons ; and, from the franknefs
of her replies, i it was evident that fhe knew
no fenfe of wrong in her condu&. We
could not but lament that the imperious
habits of the country did not allow of her
being placed as a more refpectable member
of fociety. ri ;
_ This woman is the great fupport of
the houfe—the bar-maid, and leading ma-
nager of the family. Her miftrefs had re-
fufed to take a hundred guineas for her;
which, the affured us, had been offered by
a gentleman who would have purchafed
her, She has a very lively interefting little
daughter, a Meftee about four years old.
Of this child the fpake with great tendernefs,
and appeared to bear it all the fond attachment
of an affeGionate parent. _ Yet, as the infant
was born in flavery, fhould the mother, by
any means, obtain her own freedom, fhe can-
not claim her child ; but mutt leave it, ftill the
difpofable property of her miftrefs, eayally
RA
\
liable to be fold as any other piece of furni-
ture in the houfe: for, in Barbadoes, the off-
{pring of a woman in flavery becomes the ab-
folute property of the owner to whom the
mother belongs, whether it be black, yellow,
or white; as the law knows no period when ©
the child of a flave fhall be born free, how-
ever removed from the African: nor can
the mother, under any circumftanees of
fubfequent liberation, claim her infant
from its owner, even though it fhould
be of fairer fkin than the faireft European.
Thus are the natural ties of our fpecies
torn afunder; and the deareft attachments,
and pureft affeGlions of the heart cruelly
brcken down! Babes are feparated from their
parents, and mothers robbed of their children, |
by this unatural appropriation of human fub-
ftance !
The manners, and the circumftances
attending the fituation of this mulatto were
ftrongly interefting. Her whole deportment
befpake a degree of délicacy and refine-
ment, tugether with a fuperiority of mind and
249 |
“underftanding! Her intelligence and quick-
4 nefs of -percepiion affured us that fhe had ta-
ents capable of high improvement ; and it is
F arcbable, that had fortune fo placed her in
tlife, as to have offered her the acquire-
ments of a chafte and cultivated education,
this woman, notwithftanding the color of
her {kin, had made a faithful and virtuous
wife ; been an ornament to her friends and
fociety ; and a blefling to the man who
fhould have made her the partner of his hours.
The taverns are commonly known by
the names of the perfons who keep them.
The mott frequented, at Bridge Town, are
thofe of Nancy Clarke, and Mary Bella
Green ; the former a black—the latter a mu-
latto woman. Mrs. Clarke, or Mrs. Green
would fcarcely be known! A party is faid to
dine at Mary Bella Green’s, or at Nancy
Clarke’s—or, more concifely, at Mary Bella’s
or at Nancy’s.—The title Mrs—feems to be
referved, folely, for the ladies irom Lurope,
and the white creoles, and to form a diftine-
. tion between them and the women of color of
all clafles and defcriptions --no1e of whom, |
250
of whatever fhade or degree, are “dignified
with this appellation. :
In the evening, hes taking our firft
dinner on fhore, Dr. Cleghorn and myfelf
made a walk to vifit the hofpitals and bar-
racks at St. Anne’s Hill ; and, on our way back
to Bridge Town, wewereaccofted bytwo negro
girls of re{pectable appearance, fittingupon the
ftep of a gentleman’s gateway, by the road fide.
Being juft arrived in a land of flavery,
_and feeling defirous to converfe with the Afri-
cans, and their defcendants, in order to afcer- _
tain whether any deficiency of intelle&, or —
inferiority of natural capacity was obfervable
among them, we gladly detained ourfelves,
- for fome minutes, in converfation with thefe
decent-looking young flaves. They were
the property of the gentleman, at whofe
gate they were fitting ; and were employed
as houfe fervants, or as they are here termed,
© Bou e-wenches *,” in his family.
Trifling as it is, I give you the conver-
™® Domeftics of the kitchen, not flaves of the field.
rad.
251
fation as.it paffed, divefting it only of the
broken accent, with which our language is
fpoken by the negroes. It will ferve to thew
you that the replies were not inappofite ; and
perhaps not inferior to what might have
been expected, from the common order of
people in Europe. One of the ‘girls was
about fixteen, the other eighteen years of
age. They converfed with cafe and affability,
but were very refpectful and unafluming,
and their. whole conduc might have done
credit evento European fervants, not of the
loweft clafs,
On our afking to whom they belonged,
hey replied “ We belong to Col. B’s. lady.”
Is this Col. B’s houfe? “ Yes; but the Col. is
not at home—he is gone to England.” How
does it happen that you are fitting here, in-
fiead of being in the houfe at work? “ Our
work, for to-day, is finifhed, and we came to -
the gate to fee the ftrangers, as they pafs
by.” What ftrangers? “ The ftrangers, who
are come with the army, from old England.”
Do you like to meet ftrangers? “* Oh! yes,
yes!” And to talk with them? “ Yes, if
gba
they talk with us.” Are the people, here,
kind to firangers? “ Oh, yes! it is always our
cuftom: every body fhould be more kind to
ftrangers than to their own people.” ‘Why
- fo ?—fhould we not be kind to every body?
“© Yes! we fhould be kind to every bedy,
but we fhould be more kind to ftrangers,
becaufe they come far from their own home,
and their friends ; and becaufe we may fome
time travel ourfelves, and want kindnefs from _
others.” Have you ever been far from your
home? “ No! but, perhaps, we may fome
day.” How far have you ever travelled from
your mafter’s houfe? ‘‘ Never more than five
miles.” Did you ride or walk? They both '
fmiled, and hung down their heads, looking
to the ground. No reply could have been
more expreffive, nor better underftood.—
* Ride! a flave ride! you are ftrangers here
indeed! No! we walked, bore our burden
on our backs, and journied on our naked
feet ! We bade them good night, and walked
on, pleafed with the rencontre.
263
U
~ LETTER XXII.
Meat fold alive in the market at Barbadoes. Cujftom of blow-
ing the meat. Creoles caution Dr. Cleghern and the,
author againf? walking. Vifit to a fugar plantation.
Specimen of the indolent labour of flaves. A wafbing
party. Indecency of women upon the fireets. Effect of the -
indecent habits of flaves upsn the minds of white females.
_ Negro cuftom of picking each other’s heads. Savage jight
_ between a black woman, and a mulatto woman,
Carlifle Bay, Feb.
ne office of caterer for the mefs having
~~ fallen to the lot of your friend, I may tell you
that I fometimes go to Bridge Town, to buy
living meat for dinnre. You will, perhaps,
be furprifed to learn that animals are, here,
brought alive into the market, to be killed
after the different joints are fold; and, that it
often happens, that the meat is flaughtered,
configned to the pot or {pit, brought to table,
and eaten, without growing cold !
~The very filthy cufiom of blowing the:
mieat, is here carried to greater excefs than
in England. As foon as the calf is dead, a
254
hole is cut through the fkin, near to the hock,
and a long fharp-pointed, ftick, being intro-
duced, is forced up the whole length of the
thigh, and the fide, to tear or break down
the cellular membrane. This being done, the
ftick is withdrawn, and one negro puts his
mouth to the hole and blows in air, while
another beats, with a cane, upon every part
of the fkin; which beating and blowing, are
continued until the carcafe founds like a
drum, and the whole furface is inflated like
a full-blown bladder—the animal being dif-
tended, to nearly twice its former fize. The
fkin is then taken off, and the meat diftri-
buted to the purchafers for immediate ufe.
Leaving our comrades, Weir, and Ma- |
fter, on board, Cleghorn and myfelf requently
make excurfions on fhore, and ftroll about
the town and the ficlds, by way of ex- —
ercife, and of gratifying the ftrong curiofity
which we feel to fee and know all that ap--
pertains to the change we have made. “In
- thefe ramblings, we often furprize the Welt
Indians, by, what they term, the dangerous
extent of our walks; and they aflure us that, a
= gs.
few months hence, we fhall be little inclined
to ufe fuch violent exercife. A walk of five or
fix. miles appears to them fremendous: but
we fuffer no inconvenience from it, and, per-_
haps, without being, yet, well able to judge,
we fancy that much of the languor and in-
activity of the Creoles and creolifed, might be
prevented, and ftronger health enjoyed, were
they to accuftom themfelves, more freely, to
habits of exercife. Againft our theory they
urge experience, remarking that all Euro-
- peans, however fond of ufing much exercife,
on their firft arrival, gradually lapfe into
the fame indolent indulgence as the natives.
In one of thefe excurfions we, lately,
made a firft vifit to a-fugar eftate, in the
hope of feeing the works, and witneffing
the mode of making the fugar ; but we were
difappointed, by finding that none of the
. flaves were at work, and that the manager
was from home, with the keys of the boiling
houfe in his pocket. We had, however,
fome compenfation in being allowed to walk
into an excellent garden, adjoining the houfe,
where we were gratified with the novelty
256
of feeing a number of the tropical fruits, and
obferving the garden hedge, which was form-
ed of a bufh bearing immenfe quantities of |
a fpecies of cherry, of a very pleafant flavor.
From this walk we returned to Bridge
Town, by way of Pilgrim, the refidence of |
the governor—a pleafant home, fituated |
upon an elevated {pot, about a mile from the
Town. Near this place our attention was ar-
refted by a party of flaves, or, according to
the language of the ifland, a gang of negroes,
who were employed in making a road to the
governor's houfe. It was the firft large body —
of flaves we had met with, toiling at their re-
gular employment, immediately under the
Jath of the whip; and we could not but
remark that the manner of executing the
tafk afforded a ftriking example of the in-
dolence of climate, and of flavery. Nothing
of diligence, nor indufiry appeared among
them ; and, verily, but little of bodily labor
was expended. ‘They feemed almoft too idle
to. raife the hammer, which they let fall by
its own weight, repeating the blow feveral -
times, upon the fame flone, until, it was
’
EF is
broken to pieces. A mulatto overfeer at-
tended them, holding a whip at their backs ;
but he had every appearance of being as
much a ftranger to induftry, as the negroes ;
who proceeded very indolently, without
feeming to be at all apprehenfive of the.
driver or his whip, except when he made
it fall acrofs them in ftripes.
In proportion to the work done by
Englith laborers, and the price, ufually,
_ paid for it, the labor of thefe flaves could
not be calculated at fo much as twopence
per day; for almoft any two men in 'Eng=_
land would, with the greateft eafe, do as
_ much work ina given time, as was performed
by a dozen of thefe indolent meager-looking
beings,
In one of our late perambulations, we
fell in with a party of negro women, wafh-
ing linen, at the opening of a river near the
fea; and a more difgufting fight I do not
recolle& ever to have beheld. They were
old women, of ftrong-marked, and . very
hideous African countenance; and had no
(0) ae §
258
regard to decency either of manner, or per-
fon. Their bodies were naked, fave a bit of
blue cloth folded round the loins, and
brought between the legs, from Lehind, to
faften before. As they’ ftooped down, to
dip the linen in the river, many of them ex-
pofed the crowded and callous efcars of re-
peated punifhment; and when they moved
themfelves in rubbing the clothes, or beating
them upon the large ftones before them,
their long flaccid breafts fell over their arms,
or hung in loofe maffes’ of corrugated fkin
flapping upon their bodies, fo as to cre-
ate a moft difgufting and abhorrent appear-
ance.
It has alfo happened to us to witnefs
another fpecies of indelicacy among the negro
women, which is extremely offenfive to an -
European eye. Regardlefs of decency, and
of the crowd they meet, they are fometimes
feen drawing their naked, pendulous breafts
as they walk along, and fpilling their milk
upon the public ftreets. |
You will, perhaps, be more fhocked
259
than furprized that fuch-like indecencies
‘fhould occur among the flaves; but you will
joinin my regret that they fhould happen be-
fore the eyes of European wives, and {pin-
fters; and you will lament the fad effed
which the frequent recurrence of fuch of-
fenfive fcenes muft, neceflarily, have in de-
ftroying that modeft delicacy of fentiment,
which renders fo truly lovely, while it fo
much exalts the female mind.
Of this baneful effe@, I am forry to have
it in my power to mention to you a ftriking
example, which lately occurred to my no-
tice. Being in company with a large party
of Europeans, and white creoles, male and
female, hufbands, wives, widows, maidens,
and ftrangers, at the time when the party
was affembled, during the fhort moment
before dinner, a {weet little babe, only a few
months old, was brought into the room, by
its black nurfe, to be exhibited to the com-
pany: when the woman, who, with the ex-_
ception of one fhort petticoat, was in per-
fe& nudity, was defired, before all prefent,
tofuckle the child ; and its mother and grand-
$2
260
mother, two of the moft refpectable ladies
we have met, fince we left England, in order
to pleafe “ little bab,’ amufed themfelves
by flapping, prefling, fhaking about, and
playing with the long black breafts of the —
flave, with very indelicate familiarity, before
the whole company ; and without feeming to
be at all fenfible, that it was, in any degree,
indecent or improper!
In all corners of the ftreets we meet
with the filthy fight of pairs of negroes, of
both fexes, fitting and lying about, with their
heads in each other’s laps, picking out the
{warms of vermin which occupy their wool,
This, as we had been told on board the
flave fhips, feems to be a feaft of delight to
the blacks, whether in freedom, or in fla-
very. | |
One day in paffing along the ftreet, we
‘chanced to fee a fight between two women
of colour, one a negro, the other a mulatto.
The crowd, about them, was very great, and
European curiofity induced us to wait the
refult ; but we have no defire to witnefs fuch
261
another conteft. You can have no concep-
tion of the brutal and favage means which
were ufed by thefe women to injure each
other. Not only biting, pinching, flapping,
and {cratching were employed ; but with the
more horrid vengeance of the American
gouchers, and in the moft cold and deliberate
manner, did each of thefe females thruft her
thumb or fingers into the nofe, mouth, and
eyes, of the other, ftriving, inall the bitternefs
and cruelty of favage nature, to tear to pieces,
to blind, or to maim her opponent.
I feel that this letter will be more
painful than amufing to you; and almoft fear
- that you will charge me with having looked
out for unpleafant and diftrefsful events! But
1 may affure you that, without going in
fearch of them, they have accidentally fallen
in my path ; and, as they are {trong features, |
cannot reconcile to myfelf to withhold them
from you, merely becaufe they are not of fo
pleafant a nature as I could have wifhed.
Itis my object, faithfully, to lay before you
the facts I meet with, whether happy or
unhappy, in order that you may be enabled
$3
262
to form a juft opinion of the character
and habits of thofe among whom! may
chance to be placed, while abfent from Eng-
land. |
263 7
LETTER XXUT
Sunday a day of feflivity among the flaves. African dances
and mufic. Remarks of a Scottifb woman on fecing the
negroes dance. racas between a negro man and woman.
Negro funeral. Faith of flaves in tranfmigration after
death. Singular expedient to deter them from fuicide.
Barbadoes, Feb.
Ir is ‘Sunday, and, feparated by the wide
Atlantic, I take up my pen to hallow the fab-
bath to my friend. Mentally I am every
day in your fociety: but on the fabbath I
breath a ftill warmer afpiration to dear En-
gland, and fandify the with that we were,
perfonally, nearer. Were you here to parti-
‘cipate them with me, the novel fcenes which
‘occur to my obfervation would have a double
intereft, andI fhould find acharm in many
things which now convey only a languid im-
prefhion,
Sunday is a day of feftivity among the
flaves. ‘They are paffionately fond of dancing,
and the fabbath; offering them an interval
from toil, is, generally, devoted to their fa-
hs
264.
vorite amufement; and, inftead of remaining
in tranquil reft, they undergo more fatigue, or
at leaft more perfonal exertion, during their™
gala hours of Saturday night and Sunday,
than is demanded from them, in labor, du-
ting any four days of the week.
They aflemble, in crowds, upon the
open green, or in any f{quare or corner of the
town, and, forming a ring in the centre of
the throng, dance to the found of their be-
loved mufic, and the finging of their favorite .
African yell. Both mufic and dance are of .
a favage nature. I have wifhed myfelf a
mulician, that I might take down for you
the notes of their fongs; which are very
fimple, but harfh and wholly deficient in foft-
nefs and melody. Afk the fair chantrefs. our
_ delighting friend ---- the next time you
meet her, and if fhe be not afraid of diftort-
ing her fweet countenance, fhe can give you, |
very accurately, all you may with to hear
of.an African fong. |
The inftrumental parts of the band con-
fitt of a fpecies of drum, a kind of rattle, and
268
their ever-delighting Banjar. The firft is a
long hollow piece of wood, with a dried
fheep- {kin tied over the end; the fecond is a
calabafh containing a number of {mall f{tones,
fixed to a fhort ftick which ferves as the han-
dle; and the third is a coarfe and rough kind
of guitar. While one negro ftrikes the Banjar,
another fhakes the rattle with great force of
arm, and athird fitting acrofs the body of the
drum, as it lies lengthwife upon the ground,
beats and kicks the fheep {kin at the end, in
violent exertion with his hands and heels, and
a fourth fitting upon the ground at the other.
end, behind the man upon the drum, beats
upon the wooden fides of it with two fticks, .
Together with thefe noify founds, numbers of,
’ the party of both fexes baw] forth their dear de-
lighting fong with all poffible force of lungs ;
and from the combination, and out enfemble of
the {cene, a fpeGator would require only a
flight aid from fancy to tranfport him to the
favage wilds of Africa. On great occafions the
band is increafed by an additional number
of drums, rattles, and voices.
The dance confifts of ftlamping of the
266
feet, twiftings of the body, and a number
of flrange’ indecent attitudes. It is a fevere |
bodily exertion—more bodily indeed than
you can well imagine, for the limbs have
little to do init. The head is-held ere&, or,
occafionally, inclined a little forward—the
hands nearly meet before—the elbows are
fixed, pointing from the fides—and the lower
extremities being held rigid, the whole perfon
is moved without lifting the feet from the
ground. Making the head and limbs fixed
points, they writhe and turn the body upon
its own axis, flowly advancing towards each
other, or retreating to the outer parts of the
ring, Their approaches, with the figure of
the dance, and the attitudes and inflexions in
which they are made, are highly indecent: but
of this they feem to be wholly unconf{cious, for
the gravity—I might fay the folemnity of
countenance, under which all this pafles, is pe~
culiarly ftriking, indeed almoft ridiculous.
Not a fmile—not a fignificant glance, nor an.
immedeft look efcapes from either fex: but
they meet, in very indecent attitudes, under
the moft fettled, and unmeaning gravity of —
countenance. Occafionally they change the —
{
Me
By
267
figure by ftamping upon the feet, or making
a more general movement of the perfon, but
thefe are only temporary variations; the
twiftings and turnings of the body feeming
to conftitute the fupreme excellence of the
dance.
For the moft part only two. enter the
ting at a time, but, occafionally, as many as
three or four! each making a {mall contri-
bution to the band at the time of ftepping
into the circle. They circle, violently, toge-
ther until one is tired, and when this efcapes
from the circle another aflumes the place,
thus continuing to follow, one by one, in
fucceffion, fo as frequently to keep up the
dance, without any interval, for feveral hours.
/
Both muficians and dancers feem, equal-
ly, to delight in the amufement. They ex-
ert themfelves until their naked fkias pour
off copious ftreams. The band feem to be
quite infen{ible to fatigue, for, in proportion
as the fluid diftils from their pores, they in-
creafe their efforts, raifing their voices, and
beating the drum and the rattle, with ad-
268
ditional violence : and fuch of the {pectators |
whofe olfaGtories have no relith for African
odours, are fadly annoyed by the high-
eflenced exhalation which fpreads itfelf
around.
_As I was looking on at one of thefe dances
I obferved a foldier’s wife, from the north
of Tweed, gazing with curiofity and aftonifh-
ment, amidft the throng: and feeing her
features marked with diflatisfaction and fur-
prize, Lafked her what fhe thought of the
African dance. ‘* Oot,” faid the “ts an unco
way @ fpending the fabbath night.”—And on —
my afking her if there were any as pretty 7
woman in the Highlands of Scotland, fhe,
inftantly, replied. “* whether ar uot—ibey
fmell better”
Prefently a foldier pafling that way,
and obferving the dance, afked a mulatto who
was ftanding by, for a cud of tobacco, and }
twifting it between his lower lip and his
teeth, forced his way through the crowd,
into the middle of the ring; and there pla-
cing himfelf, betwen the negro and the girl
269
“who were dancing, fet the nymph in African
ftep and figure. Wowdki was refponfive and
they danced, cordially, together; but foon
finifhed by footing it, in quick ftep, from the
ring, happily enfolded in each others’ arms ;
to the great difappointment of poor Sambo,
who, no doubt, thought to regain his part-
ner as foon as the foldier had grown tiréd in
the dance.
Near this merry green happened a fad
fracas between a negro man and woman, in
confequence of gaming ; which is a very pre-
vailing paffion among the blacks. The wo-
man had won from the man three dollars, and
fome words having arifen between them, a
fcuffle enfued, in which the man had torn off
the few clothes, that covered the ebon dame,
and expofed her, in nakednefs, to the
crowd. She, in return, tore and mal-treated
his breeches ; and the difpute now was whe-
ther the woman, having been the fuccefsful
adventurer, ought not to make reparation
for the further injury fhe had committed.
The man exclaimed, with fad violence, re-
garding the additional lofs, fuitained by the
270
deftru€tion of his indifpenfible apparel. The
woman, putting all fuccefs at play out of the
queftion, infifted that fhe was the injured
party, from having her petticoat ruined, and
being expofed, in nudity, to the multitude.
At length a refpectable looking, and
decently drefled negro, who chanced to pafs
that way, kindly undertook to fettle this
important broil; and we obferved that much
deference was paid to his opinion; but
I am_ not fatished that he ated quite the
part of an upright and impartial judge,—
certainly his opinion was not fraught with
gallantry, for having no eye of pity towards
the diftrefled, and naked nymph, he decided —
that a hole in the cwlottes was an evil of
greater magnitude than a rent in the fetti-
coat, and accordingly decreed that Penelope
fhould forfeit half a dollar to Caffandro, for
taking him by the breeches, |
Having led you to the merry fong, and
fprightly dance of the flaves, let me now con-
duct you to their bed of death. Seeing a
crowd in one of the ftreets, and obferving a
27%
kind of proceffion, we followed the multi-
tude, and foon found ourfelves in the train
of a negro funeral. Withing to witnefs the
ceremony of interment we proceeded to the
burial ground, with the throng. The corpfe
was conveyed in a neat fmall hearfe, drawn
by one horfe. Six boys, twelve men, and.
_ forty-eight women walked behind, in pairs,
as followers, but I cannot fay as deeply afflic-
ted mourners. The females were neatly
clad, for the occafion, and moftly in white.
Grief and lamentations were not among
‘them: nor was even the femblance thereof
afflumed. No folemn dirge was heard—no
deep-founding bell was tolled—no fearful
‘filence held. It feemed a period of mirth
andjoy. Inftead of weeping and bewailing,
the followers jumped and fported, as they
pafled along, and talked and laughed, with
each other, in high feftivity. The proceffion
was clofed by five robuft negro fithermen,
who followed behind playing antic gambols,
and dancing all the way to the grave.
_ At the gate of the burying ground the
corpfe was taken from the hearfe, and borne
SRS.
by eight negroes, not upon their fhoulders, bute
upon four clean white napkins placed under
the coffin. The body was committed to the
grave, immediately, on reaching it, without
either prayer or ceremony; and the cof-
fin, direQly, covered with earth. In doing
this, much decent attention was. obférved.
The mould was not fhovelled in roughly
with the fpade, almoft difturbing the dead, —
with the rattling of ftones and bones upon
' the coffin, but was firft put into a bafket,
and then carefully emptied into the grave ;
an obfervance which might be adopted in
England very much to the comfort of the
afflicted friends of the deceafed. .
During this procefs an old negro wo= —
man chanted an African air, and the muls
titude joined her in the chorus. It was not —
in the ftrain of a hymn, or folemn re- |
quiem, but was loud and lively, in unifon |
with the other gaieties of the occafion,
Many were laughing and {porting the’
whole time with the fifhermen, who danced
and gambolled, during the ceremony, upon
273
the neighbouring graves. From the mio-
ment the coffin was committed to the earth,
nothing of order was maintained by the
party. The attendants difperfed in various
direCtions, retiring, or remaining, during the
filling up of the grave, as inclination feemed
to lead. |
When the whole of the earth was re-
placed feveral of the women, who had ftaid
to chant, in merry fong, over poor Jenny’s
clay, took up a handful of the mould, and
threw it down again upon the grave of
their departed friend, as the finifhing of the
ceremony, crying aloud ‘“ God blefs you,
Fenny ! good-by! remember me to all friends
f other fide of the fea, Fenny! Tell ’em me
come foon! Good-by, Sfenny, good-by! See for
fend me good - - - - to-night, Fenny ! Good-byy
good night, Fenny, good-by!” All this was
uttered in mirth and laughter, and accompanied
with attitudes and gefticulations expreflive of
any thing but forrow or fadnefs.
From the grave-digeer we learned that
poor Jenny had been a wafherwoman, and
VOL I. T
274
that the females who had, fo merrily, found-
ed her requiem, had been her fud-affociates.
They had full faith in Jenny’s tran{mi-
gration to meet her friends, at her place of |
nativity; and their perfuafion that death was
only a removal from their prefent to their
former home—a mere change from a ftate
of flavery to a ftate of freedom—did not
barely alleviate, but’ wholly prevented the —
natural grief and affli@ion arifing from the ’
lofs of a friend. They confidently expected
to hear from poor Jenny, or to know her in-
fluence, in the way they moft defired, before
MOrMine,
The faith of thefe poor ignorant flaves,
regarding a happy tranfmigration, after death,
would feem calculated to lead them to the crime
of fuicide ; and, accordingly, this effe@ of their
fuperftition is faid not to have been unfrequent
among them. A tale is told of a fingular reme-
dy having been practifed againft this fatal ex-
pedient of the negroes. Several individuals
of a gang having hanged themfelves to efcape
from a cruel matter, and others being about
to avoid his feverities by fimilar means, he
275
‘prevented them, by the happy expedient of
threatening to hang himfelf, alfo, and to
tranfmigrate, with them, carrying the whip
in his hand, into their own country; where
he would punith them ten times more fe-
verely than he had hitherto done. ‘The ftra-
tagem is faid to have fucceeded. Finding
they could not, thus, efcape from the tyran-
nic lath, they refolved, rather than receive
difgraceful ftripes among their African friends,
to continue their exiftence under all the hard-
fhips of flavery.
276
LETTER XXIV.
Author and his comrades receive kind attentions from Mr. B.
Hinde. Make a vifit to Dr. Hinde. General face of
the country above Bridge-Town. The party at Dr.
Flindés witnefs the procefs of making rum and fugar.
Slaves employed as running footmen. Four women feen
toiling in a cane-field with a man holding a whip at
their backs. Dr. Cleghorn and the Author continue their
walking exercife. Meet with trees of the poifonous mane
chineel—alfo of the fea-grape. ' A coco-nut grove. Fof=
pitality of a planter. A happy negro-yard. Mode of -
wafbing linen at Barbadoes.
| Barbadoes, Feb.
H avine fatigued you, in my late letters,
with tedious notes, concerning the flaves and
their cuftoms, I feel happy to have it in my
power to introduce you to the fociety of
their mafters. Through the friendly me-
dium of Mr. Benjamin Hinde, a merchant
of great refpeCtability in Bridge-Town, we
have been made known to feveral gentlemen
who refide in the country, and are of im-
portance in the ifland: and who, in liberal
and friendly hofpitality, offer us the means
of feeing the whole of Barbadoes, and of
277
witnefling the cuftoms and manners of its
inhabitants. It were unneceflary to remark
that this will be a great fource of gratification
to me, and will, even, lead me to rejoice in the
event, while I lament the caufe of our delay. |
We have made a ride about four miles
‘into the’country, to dine with one of our
profeffional brethren, Dr. Hinde, a man of
high acquirements, and found knowledge,
He was educated in England, and remained
many years, in the profecution of his ftudies,
at Cambridge. Until lately he employed him-
felf in the pratice of medicine, at Bridge-
Town ; but he has, now, in great part, retired
from the fatigues of medical occupation, to
engage in the more genial, and more lucrative
employment of a planter. ‘To the inhabitants |
of the town this is a fevere lofs; and they,
juftly, lament the abfence of a man not lefs
endeared to them by his private worth, and
urbanity, than by his eminent profeffional
talents.
We very much enjoyed the ride to the -
dodtor’s eftate ; which is fituated upon much
ie | T3
273
higher ground than the immediate environs
of Bridge-Town ; the country rifing towards
the interior of the ifland, in elevated ranges
of diftinG table-land. At one fpot we afcend-
ed by a very fteep road, and, having reached
the fummit of the declivity, there found our-
{elves again upon an extenfive plain. Soon
afterwards we came to another rocky preci-
pice, and having mounted this, by-a path
of difficult afcent, we arrived upon another,
and ftill higher range of table-land. From
the points of thefe fudden elevations we com-
manded very extenfive and delightful views
of the country below, of Bridge-Town, of the
fea, and of the fhipping in Carlifle Bay.
The land is cultivated in open field—
hedges, walls, and all the ufual fences feem
to be.unknown; nor does the eye difcover
any diftinG feparation of the different eftates ;
but it ranges, uninterrupted, over a wide-
extended furface, richly fpread with the
various productions of a tropical foil, and -
pleafantly interfperfed with the manfions of
the whites,and the huts of the negroes. Cot-
ton, pigeon peas, and Guinea corn, conftitute
279
‘the ereat produce of this part of the ifland.
Some fields of aloes, and of plantains, were
alfo feen: but. there appeared a degree of
nakednefs from the want of wood, of which
there is not a fufficiency to give a general
. Yichnefs to the landicape, although about the
great Backra-houfes there are feveral fine
groves of the coco-nut and the majeftic
mountain-cabbage trees.
We arrived about two o'clock, having
made our ride in the ftrongeft heat of the
day; but from the purity and frefhnefs of
the air, and from the country being more
elevated, as we advanced, we felt no degree
of languor or oppreffion, from a full ex-
pofure to the fun. At the dodor’s houfe,
in confequence of the fituation and con-
firuGtion of the building, we felt it cooler
than either in Bridge-Town, or Carlifle Bay.
‘The party at dinner confifted of eight ladies,
and fourteen gentlemen ; the attendants were
alfo numerous, yet, notwithftanding the num-
ber of perfons in the room, and the many
{moking difhes on the table, the fteady per-
flation of the breeze kept us fufficiently cool,
T 4
280
_The day pafled moft pleafantly :—all was |
harmony and good clieer. The hofpitality
‘which fpread the feaft, enriched its flavor,
_and the entertainment was highly graced
by the urbanity and attentive politenefs of
the doctor and his lady. On our way back to
Bridge-Town, in the evening, we perceived
the air to be, more clofe and oppreflive,
and the heat greater as we defcended from
each plain of table-land; fo that the dif-
ference ,we felt between breathing in the
town, and in the cool breeze of the country
was very ftriking, and led us to felicitate
the dogtor in having fo advantageoufly ex- —
changed phyfic for fugar—the confined ftreets
of the town for the open hills of the country..
It was the feafon of cutting the canes,
and Dr. Hinde, kindly attentive to our era=
tification, had contrived that the works
fhould be going, in order that we might wit-
nefs the method by which the faccharine
juice is feparated from the canes, and after-
wards prepared into fugar. We alfo vifited
the diftilling houfe, and infpeéted the ap-
paratus for making the rum ; hence, we had
281
this day, an opportunity of witnefling the |
progreflive fteps from the cutting of the
canes, to the converting of their juice into fugar
-and‘rum. At fome more leifure moment,
perhaps, I may note for you the whole of ©
the procefs.
We made our excurfion in fingle-horfe
chaifes, like thofe, with leather tops, ufed in |
England; from which they only differ by.
having the leather, at the fides and the back,
made to roll up, and let down at pleafure,
- for the twofold purpofe of admitting the air,
and excluding the rain. We were attended
by flaves as running footmen, whofe duty it
was to travel as faft as we did, and to be in
readinefs to hold the bridles, or ftand at the
horfes’ heads, at any {pot where we might
chance to alight, or to paufe. They were
equal in number to our horfes, but as we
were unaccultomed both to running foot-
men, and to flaves, we had ftrong feelings of
compun@ion refpe@ting thefe pedeftrian pa-
ges; and from. feeing them run, and pant, and
broil, expofed to the mid-day heat of a tropical
fun, merely for our eafe and pleafure, it be-
\
282
came fo painfully annoying to us that we loft
all fenfe of comfort and enjoyment: Dr.
Cleghorn and myfelf, therefore, ftopped to
defire that they would get up, alternately,
and ride behind our chaife. Two of them,
only, accepted the offer—all the others con-
tinued to walk or run throughout the journey.
Upon our mentioning to the gentlemen
of the ifland our uneafy feelings refpecting
thefe fable attendants, they fmiled at our |
European tendernefs, and affured. us that fo
far from it being a fatigue or hardfhip to
them, they always hailed fuch an excurfion -
as a holiday, and preferred it to remaining
quietly at home. We could not, for an in-
ftant, difpute the information; but from
knowing that fuch violent exercife, under
fuch exceilive heat, muft have been fatalto
ourfelves, and not being enough Weft In-
dians to know how very differently it af-
fected the negroes, we could not regard them
without fuffering ftrong feelings of mal-aife.
At one f{pot, in the courfe of our ride,
we had our attention arrefted by obferving
283
a party of four, almoft naked, females work-
ing in a cane-field. Curiofity would not al-
low us to pafs on without devoting to them
a moment of particular regard. We, there~
fore, went a little off the road to approach
them nearer; when we found that they
were labouring with the hoe, to dig, or
' cut up the ground, preparatory to the plan-
ting of fugar; and that a ftout robuft-looking
man, apparently white, was following them,
holding a whip at their backs. Obferving
that he was the only one of the party who was
idle, we inquired why he did not partake of
the tafk, and were told, in reply, that it was
not his bufinefs—that he had only to keep
the women at work, and to make them feel
the weight of the whip if they grew idle, or
relaxed from their labour. |
Impulfive nature fluthed at this infor-
mation, and we felt fhocked and indignant,
at feing a man, apparently, ftrong enough to
do as much work as the whole of the four, em-
ployed in the fole occupation of brandifhing ~
the whip over thefe poor degraded females,
284.
Reverting to the proteCtion demanded from
us, by the tender fex, we forgot for a mo-
ment, all the circumftances of the country
Wwe were in, and, indulging in a train
of European fentiments, could not refrain
from rebuking the man: and although re-
fle&tion whifpered “ he is but on duty,” I
confefs that I muft remain long in a land of
flavery, before I can witnefs fuch a fcene,
without feeling a ftrong imqulfe to take the
whip from the fellow’s hand, and, lay the
lath acrofs his fhoulders, until he fhall relieve
the women, by, at as partaking of their
toil.
Notwithftanding the alarm of our Bar-
badoes acquaintance, Dr. Cleghorn and my-
felf continue our walks, by rambling about the
fields, and the paths, in the environs of Bridge-
Town, at an early hour of the morning: and,
perhaps, we do not feel more fatigue than
we might experience from the fame degree of
exercife in Europe. We, lately, walked from
6 tog o'clock, and if you had the opportunity
of con{ulting our ftately mulatto attendant, at
285
Mary Bella Green’s, you. would learn, that
we exhibited no marks of a decreafed appetite
at breakfaft-time. ie
Near the fea we were protected from
the great force of the fun by the fhade of
trees whofe leaves and trunk very much re-
fembled the common peartree of England,
but whofe fruit was, in form, a correct like-
nefs of the apple. We knew not that it was
forbidden, but had enough of caution not to
tafte it. However I gathered a {mall branch,
bearing fruit and leaves, and put into my
pocket as a {fpecimen, from which we might
afcertain what tree it was. Prefently after-
wards we met a negro, and upon our fhew-
ing it to him, and afking its name, he, in-
ftantly, exclaimed with all the impulfe of
alarm, “ 4h, Maffa, dat potfon—dat no good
for unhyaam—dat daamm manchineel, Maffa.” —
Finding that I had foftered a ferpent, I di.
rely threw away every leaf, and ‘every
apple; but I difcovered that, like other
infidious foes, manchineel had quickly dif-
fufed its poifon, and I afterwards {marted
’ for my curiofity. Either my handkerchief,
286
or my gloves had imbibed the offenfive par-
ticles and from having incautioufly ufed them,
my lips and face burnt for many hours after,
with all the fcorchings of cantharidiftical acri-
mony ; alfo from their having reached the
tongue and fauces | was brought into a copious
falivation,- and, throughout the morning,
my mouth and throat were much fwelled,
and throbbed with fiery heat.
Near the fea we faw likewife fome other
trees, bearing. a fruit very like grapes,—but
experience of the manchineel made us cau-
tious in gathering further fpecimens of tro-
pical produGtion. Some negroes whom we
met informed us that they were called fea-
grapes, and were ufed asfruit: upon which
we ventured to gather a few of them,
and found that they were of pleafant flavor,
In the courfe of the fame walk we met with
a fine avenue of coco-nut trees, bordered
with the aloe and the plantain. This was
not to be refifted. We could not forego the
pleafure of exploring the extent of this de-
lightful fhade, and, therefore, proceeded to |
its utmoft depth, when we found that it led to
ego
a gentleman’s houfe; from which, as we
approached, the lord of the manfion came
- out to bid us welcome, and to tender us the
civilities of hofpitality. We accepted the
very grateful refrefhment of a fine fhaddock,
pulled frefh from the tree, and the gentle- |
man, kindly, conducted us to the plantain
ground, the negro yard, and different. parts
of the houfe and eftate.
We had, before, feen many negro huts,
fome fhaded by the fea-grape, fome theltered
by the broad and balmy leaf of the plantain,
_ fome protected by the umbrageous coco-nut,
and fome ftanding amidft the open fields,
expofed to the full ardor of the fun; but all
thefe were of a mean order, ftrageling, and
difperfed, and bearing no kind of refemblance
to the colle€tive abode, conftruéted for the
_ flaves of this eftate.
It is common at the plantations to allot a
fmall piece of ground, at a fhort diftance
from the houfe, tothe ufe of the negroes, and
this is called the negro-yard. Here the flaves
238
are allowed to build hoabsiien fmall huts to
live in, but they are, commonly, of very coarfe
conftruction, and are dark, clofe, and imoky.
At the eftate I now fpeak of, a circular piece
of ground had been appropriated as the negro-
yard, but infiead of the flaves being left
to conftru& their own habitations, fixteen:
very neat and uniform cabins have been
erected of wood, arid well roofed with thin- |
gles*. Placed in eight divifions they form a
hollow octagon, a free opening being left for
the breeze at one end of each hut.- In the
centre of the odtagon is built a common
kitchen, which ferves for all the fixteen
families. The huts are neat, and the
whole premifes wear an air of order, and of
cleanlinefs, not common to the abode of
flaves. |
We contemplated this fpot with much
fatisfaGtion, and were gratified in obferving
the high degree of attention, which was here
given to the comfort and accommodation
_ of the negroes ; who had little caufe to lament
'
* Wooden tiles.
289
their removal from the wild woods of an
oppofite fhore; and could as little defire to
change their prefent lot for the high-rated
freedom of European paupers.
This happy negro-yard forms, as it
were, a ‘little villace of fixteen families, all
of whom may affemble, each evening, after
the labour of the day, to join in the merry .
dance, or to {moke and fing together, free from
every care. No thought have they how to
provide for their infants, or their aged parents
—nor have they to feek either food, habitation,
or apparel. "To each family is allotted a fe-
parate, and to all a common home; the necef-
fary food and clothing are iffued to them ; and
they know none of the anxiouscares or difficul-
ties of the world. No fearful concern, nor ha-
rafling incumbrance can arife to them on ac-
count of their offspring, who, like themfelves,
_ are furnifhed with all that is needful ; and thofe
who have moft children find themfelves moft
‘valued and efteemed. In ficknefs, medical:
attendance is provided for them, and what-
ever is neceflary is adminiftered, without —
thought or anxiety, on their own behalf,
VOL. I. U
290 |
Thus are they guarded, at every avenue,
- againft the approach of want and care. Six
days labour is demanded from them in the
week ; but the fabbath is given them as a day
of reft and relaxation ; aad, from the total ab--
- fence of care, it is ufually fpent in unbounded
mirth and fefivity.”
Tar. +h
n
Ta the courfe of our walks we have met
with another wathing party, and as you de-
fire to know all that occurs, whether of much
or little importance, I may tell you that, in
this operation of cleaning, our linen is here |
beaten and rubbed, and {crubbed to pieces in
a moft unmerciful manner, and, after all, with-
out being made, even, tolerably clean:
The following is the procefs employed ;
the linen is firft put into a tub, and rubbed
through fome water, then it is taken out and
fprinkled with fand, previous to being preffed.
and beaten with a piece of wood, upon a
coarfe large ftone, by the fide of the river; after
which it is rubbed out in the open ftream.
Next it is fprinkled with the fine white fand
of the fhore, and fpread out by the fea to -
201
whiten; then it receives another dipping in
water, and, finally, is rinced out in the run-
ning ftream of the river. From the rough
treatment it undergoes, it feldom comes home
without being torn into various rents and
holes. The demand made for this rude
cleaning is a dit for each piece, without any
regard to its fize, or the labour required. A
dozen fhirts are wathed for fawelve bits, OY,
according to our coin, for twelve fixpences,
and for the wafhing of a dozen pocket-
handkerchiefs we pay the fame,
292
LETTER XXV.
Author and his comrades make an excurfion to Col. Wil-
liams’s. Cuftom of riding with a fugar cane. Soil of
Barbadoes. Pitturefque feenery of the diftritt called Scat
land. ‘* Sweet fhades” of Turner’s-hall wood. Botling
or inflammable fpring. Barbadoes-Tar. Lemons left to
fall under the trees, like crabs. Mountain cabbage=
tree. View from Mount Hilloughby. A “ vunaway
effate.” A golden orchard. A © fecial rock.” Cray
Jy foup, and Centurian Oranges. Evening ride to Bridge-
Lown. Running flaves the only alloy to a moft delightful
excurfion. Belfaft tranfport captured by the enemy. Trees,
plants, and fruits, of Barbadoes. Remarks concerning
the cultivation and flavor of pines.
iN Barbadoes, Feb.
We have aude another very delightful. ex-
-eurfion, and find this little ifland more inter-
efting and picturefque than my pen can tell
you. Being invited to form a party to the’
plantation of Col. Williams, and to go very
early, in order that we might extend our ride
to fome of the moft, beautiful fpots of the
ifland, before dinner, Cleghorn, Mafter, and
~
=
ae 293
myfelf rofe very early, and left the fhip at
gs oclock. On arriving at Bridge Town we
found flaves, horfes and every neceflary, for
the excurfion, provided by the friendly atten-
tion of Mr. B. Hinde, under whofe guidance
we placed ourfelves for the journey.
We went to the houfe of his brother
before breakfaft, where we found the table
fpread, and the dogtor waiting to receive us,
and prepared to join the party; as was alfo ~
Mr. Abel Hinde, another of his brothers, —
After amply fatisfying our morning appetites,
we proceeded towards Col. Williams’s, which
is fome miles-further in the country. The fun
had become more powerful than we had felt
it on our way from Bridge-Town to the doc-
’ tor’s; but we gradually afcended to higher
Jand, and coming into a mountainous part
_ of the country, we foundthesbreeze fufficientl y
ftrong to prevent all fenfe of languor or op-
preffion.
A little before we reached the abode of
Col. Williams, we paffed through a. field
where a large gang of negroes was employed
U3
294
in cutting canes. This proveda feafonable te-
frefhment to us, for we had grown thirfty,
and were glad to adopt the Barbadoes cuftom
of giving our whips to the flaves, and taking
-fugar canes to ride with—fucking one end to
quench our thirft, while we beat on our
horfes with the other.
Thus equipped, we prefently arrived at
the dwelling of the owner of the canes, faluting
him with the ftaffs of fugar in our hands,
which we had juft taken from his field. He
greeted us very cordially, invited us to alight,
and, perceiving that fome of us were ftrangers,
conduéted us to the works, to fhew us the
procefs of making the fugar. While looking
at the fugar-works, we were joined by Col.
Williams, who had rode out thus far, to meet
us; and our party being now complete, we
proceeded to a moft romantic and beautiful
part of the ifland, called Scotland. —
Near Bridge-Town we obferved that the ~
foil was of rich black-earth, but not of oreat
depth, being in many places only thinly fpread
upon calcareous rocks, which are formed
o
295.
moftly of madripores. Further in the coun-
try the earth is of a reddifh caft, and evidently
argillaceous. ‘This is broken, by cultivation,
into fine mould; and the foil is deeper, though
lefs rich, than that near to the Town. ©
In fome divifions of the part of the
country called Scotland the land is white;
and pieces of earth have, here, been found
fo hardened as to bear the knife or chiffel,
andit has been poflible to mark, or write with
them, as with chalk; and hence one fpot
has been denominated chalk-eftate : but the
name is founded in error, for the foil is not
calcareous: it is argillaceous, and being har-
dened by the evaporation of its aqueous
parts, the earth is rendered white by expofure
to the weather. The diftri@ of Scotland
comprehends the whole of the parifh of
St. Andrew, and part of two other parifhes—
the tutelar faint contributing in larger pro-
portion than both the others.
This part of the ifland is uncommonly
_ picturefque, and comprehends a very grand
and interefting variety of {cenery. With the
U4
«: 206
rude ftupendous irregularity, and the dark
fhades of the Alps, and the romantic wild-
nefs of the mountains of Wales or Scot-.
land, it combines the gentle but lively variety
of the foft and flowing furface of England :
and, together with thefe, it offers wide views
of the encircling ocean, the fhipping at fea
and in the harbour, and all the rich luxuriance
of tropical vegetation. .
The particular {pot from whence this
part of the ifland would feem to have deriv-
ed its name, is raifed in rugged cliffs, and
broken uncultivated fummits, forming a rude
contrat to the high fertility of the. vallies,
and the bottoms of the hills. Neighbouring
mountains, yet more lofty than thefe barren *
cliffs, tower around, clothed with rich ver-
dure ; and the great variety of the fcene is
further increafed by the umbrageous foliage
and diverfified tints of Turner’s-hall wood,
—the moft extenfive, and the oldeft foreft
in the ifland. |
After being long expofed to the fcorch=
ing fun, in contemplating the many beauties
207 .
of this fweet neighbourhood, we paffed over
rough and rugged roads, along crooked nar-
row paths, up fteep mountains, and down
rapid defcents, into the deep gloom of the
foreft ; where the change of fcene was no lefs
ftriking, than the coolnefs of the temperature |
was refrefhing and grateful. Literally might |
thefe be called fweet foades, for they not only
_ offered the prote€tion we courted, but like-
wife contributed the refrethment of oranges -
and lemons to quench our thirft, and further
regaled us with the fragrance of odoriferous
- fhrubs and plants. »
%
4
Nor was this all, for the cool retreats of
the foreft miniftered ftill more bountifully
to the pleafures of this charming excurfion ;
which was equally: calculated to amufe the
traveller, and to gratify the naturalift, and
the philofopher. Faftidious, indeed, muft he
have been,—nor would you, my friend, have
envied him the apathy of his feelings, who
could not be amufed, nor find fubjedts for
_ his contemplation in fuch a tour. No fuch
travellers were of our party—all were amufed
—all delighted and gratified. We, who were
298
firangers dwelt on every fcene with rapture ;
and our kind friends, to whom the whole ~
was familiar, exprefied new delight in ad-
miniftering, fo amply, to our gratification.
The cool fhelter of the foreft was derived
from the mountain-cabbage, from large ce- —
dars, and from others of the oldeft and °
fineft trees of the ifland. Amidft thefe fhades
we defcended to a narrow gully, between
two mountains, to fee one of the great
curiofities—one of the reported phenomena
of Barbadoes—“ a boiling {pring !” On ap-
_ proaching the fpot, we came to a {mall hut
in which was living an old black woman,
who employed herfelf as a guide to exhibit,
under a kind of necromantic procefs, all the
details of this boiling and burning fountain.
The old dame, bearing in her hand alighted ta-
per, and taking with her an empty calabath, and
all the other neceflary apparatus of her office,
led the way from the hut down to the {pring.
In a fill, and moft fecluded fituation, we came
to a hole, or {mall pit filled with water, which
~ was bubbling up in boiling motion, and pour- |
_ing, from its receptacle, down a narrow chan-
299
nel of the gully. - Here our fable forcerefs, in
all the filene and folemnity of magic, placing
the light at her fide, fell down upon her
knees, and, with her calabafh, emptied all
the water out of the hole, then, immerfing
the taper in the deep void, the fuddenly fet
the whole pit in a flame; when the inftantly
jumped upon her legs, and looked fignificantly
round, as if anxious to catch the furprife ex-
prefled upon our countenances, from the
workings of her witchcraft. The taper being
removed, the empty fpace continued to burn
with a foft lambent flame, without the ap-
pearance of any thing to fupport the com-
buftion. We obferved frefh water flowly
diftilling into the pit, from the earth at its
fides, and dropping to the bottom; and as this
increafed in quantity, it raifed the flame
higher and higher in the pit, fupporting it
upon its furface, and conveying the ap-
pearance of the water itfelf being on fire ;
although it was very clear and pure, and not —
{pread with any oily or bituminous matter.
When the water had rifen to a certain height,
the flame became feeble, then gradually de-
clined, and prefently was extina. The '
200 -
water was now feen to boil and bubble as be.
fore, and, foon overfiowing the pit, refumed f
its courfe down the narrow channel of the
gully, and all was reftored to the flate in
which we had found it,
You will, before this, have difcovered
“that the water was cold, and that the boiling
and burning of this fiery deep was only the
effeG@ of inflammable gas, which, efcaping
from the bowels of the earth, and rifing from
the bottom of the pit, fupported the flame
when it was empty, and, bubbling through
it, when it was filled with water, gave it the |
appearance of a boiling fpring. During the |
combuftion, the {mell of the inflammable air
was very powerful.
In the ftones and foil, ‘in the very rocks
and roads, we traced the origin of this pheno-
menon of nature. Afphaltic produ@ions
abounded on every quarter: and, upon inquiry,
we found that we were in the very part of
the country which produces the celebrated
- Barbadoes tar; the {mell of which faluted us .
as we rode along ; and we even faw it diftil-
301
ling from the hills of hardened clay, and like-
wife iffuing from the rocks at the fides of
the road. The argillaceous foil of this neigh-
bourhood is every where ftrongly impreg-
nated with bitumen, in which you will rea-
dily perceive the origin of the “ boiling,
or inflammable fpring.” |
_- We were next conducted to feveral
fpots, amidft the rough and wocded moun-
tains, where we faw the tar iffuing copioufly
into pits from the earth, and witneffed the
mode of colleéting it. So plentiful is it
in this part of the countr y, that it may be
procured from any hole dug deep enough
to contain water; for when {mall openings
are made in the earth, and water has
flowed into them, the petroleum exuding from
around accumulates and floats in a thick coat
upon the furface. The mode of colle&ting
at is by laying the palm of the hand flat upon
the water, and then feraping off the tar, which
adheres to it, upon the edge of a bafonor a
calabafh, repeating the dipping and f{craping
until the furface of the water is entirely
cleared of its bituminous coating, After a
302
few days the water is again covered, and
more of the tar may be collected in a fimiilar
manner.
To reach thefe pits of tar we were ob=
liged to {cramble, on foot, through deep and
mountainous woods, and by way of narrow
rugged paths; leaving our flaves and horfes
to go round and meet us at a diftant fpot
below. Near the pits were growing great
numbers of lemon trees, whofe fruit, like the
erabs of the Englith hedges, having fallen
from its branches, lay in n heals unheeded,
under the trees.
In the part of the wood where we faw
the inflammable fpring were great numbers.
of mountain cabbage trees, which were faid
to be of a peculiar kind, and different from
all others in the ifland. This magnificent
palm is unqueftionably the fineft tree that
grows. From words, or drawings, you can
only colle& an imperfect idea of it. To
comprehend its fine fymmetry, its grandeur,
and majeftic loftinefs, it muft be feen. Its
trunk is very {mooth, and almoft regularly
. 303.
_eylindrical, rifing into a fuperb and ftately
pillar, refembling a well-hewn column of
‘ftone. At the bafe its circumference is fome-
what greater than at any other part, yet.
leflening fo sradually, upwards, as to preferve
the moft juft and accurate proportion. Not
a fingle branch, nor even the flighteft twig,.
interrupts the seneral harmony of the trunk,
which often rifes, in a correct perpendicular,
to the height of from fixty to a hundred feet, —
and then fpreads its palmated foliage into a
wide and beautifully radiated circle. Branches —
it has none, but the fine expanfive leaves,
fhooting immediately from the fummit of
the ftately trunk, extend around it, crowning,
and, as it were, proteCting the maffy column,
in form of a full expanded umbrella.
It will perhaps occur to you that our
noble Englifh oak, with all its rude and
crooked limbs, muft be a more piturefque
objet. So it is, and fo is likewife the wide-
fpreading filk-cotton: but the loftinefs, the
ftately grandeur, the exact proportion, and
the deep-fhading foliage of the mountain=
cabbage are unequalled, and, in their happy
304
combination, crown this tree the king 5 sl
the foreft—the moft exalted of the ya a
world.
=
ee #
When planted in avenues, it forms a
grand and impofing approach to a dwelling, |
conveying an air of greatnefs to the manfion
itadorns. It grows, free fromdecay, toa very
old age, but cannot be converted to the ufe-
ful purpofes of timber. It is a tree of ftate,
calculated to enrich, and augment the magni-
ficence of a palace: nor let it detrat from its
majeftic qualities to know that, after all, it is
but -----a cabbage tree! Its loftieft fum-
mit is a fpiral fucculent fhoot, the fides of
which, by gradually and fucceflively unfold-
ing, form the fine wide-fpreading foliage.
Before this opens, to expand itfelf around, it.
is acongeries of young and tender leaves, and |
is often boiled and brought to table as a cab-
bage, of which itis the very beft kind I ever
remember to -have tafted. It is alfo ufed,
without boiling, by way of fallad, and is then
eaten with oil and vinegar; and fo highly
is it efteemed for thefe. culinary purpofes,
7
that, too often, a very fine tree has been de-_
| Soe |
voted to the axe, merely becaufe no other
means could be found, of obtaining, from its
towering fummit, this moft excellent cabbage.
_ The variety of this tree found near the in-
flammable {fpring, differsonlyin havingits thick
tuft of fibrous roots appear feveral feet out
of the ground, looking as if the tree, inftead
_ of taking root in the earth, was growing upon
another fhort trunk placed under it, as a bafe
‘or pedeftal, to fupport it from the foil: a cir-
cumftance which would feem to have arifen
from thefe trees growing upon the fide of a
_ hill, and the earth being partially wafhed
from their roots by heavy rains. “In all other
refpects they are the fame as the reft of their
{pecies. |
After viewing the beauties of Scotland,
and feeing the inflammable fpring, and the tar
pits, we next went to Mount Hilloughby, and.
_afcended the higheft point of land in the
ifland; and, from what I have faid of the
beauties of the part called Scotland, you will
believe that the profpe@t from Hilloughby’s’
fummit muft be grand and delighting indeed. —
TOL. I. X
306 |
The whole ifland, enced by the Atlan-
tic ocean, was under the eye, difplaying a
fcene which comprehended all the variety of
Jand and fea, of hill and vale, of rude nature
and high cultivation. On one hand were
barren rugged rocks—on the other rich and
fertile plains. ‘Towns, houfes, huts, and fu-_
gar-works were feen diftributed about the
ifland; bays and rivulets were before. us
opening into the fea; a large fleet appeared
at anchor, with its foreft of mafts intermixed
amidft the buildings of the town ; multitudes
of fhips and boats were failing in all direc-
‘tions round the coaft ; and the folemn forefts
and painted groves difplayed all the rich fo- ©
liage of tropical vegetation. To form fuch
a picture would defeat the genius of aClaude,
or defy the bold pencil of a Salvator Rofa.
It was alfo further enhanced, by the circum-
ftances under which we faw it s' the bright
tropical fun being, fuddenly, overcaft by a
heavy black cloud ; which, ftealing along the
mountain tops, fo varied the fhades and tints
as to give additional effet to all the beauties
of the fcene: but while we were devoutly
contemplating it, this cloud broke upon us in.
ood
all the violence of a pelting ftorm, and drove
us to feek fhelterin a neighbouring cottage.
Amidft the variety comprifed in the
view from Hilloughby hill I muft not forget
to mention that we faw what is here termed
the “ runaway eftate”—which is a territory
of many acres of fine and rich foil, fo called
from having been removed, at various times,
to a confiderable diftance, by heavy torrents
of rain, or fudden ruptures of the earth. It is
-faid not to be an unfrequent occurrence, in
this ifland, for a large tract of land thus to
~affume a change of place; many examples of
which are to be feen in the parifhes of St.
Andrew and St. Jofeph. Large trecs, plan-
tains, fugar canes, and different crops ‘of -
growing produce have been removed with
their foil, and have continued to thrive in
their new fituation, as well as if they had
remained undifturbed,
A very fingular change of crop, and of
foil, is faid to have happened at the eftate of
a Mr. Fofter, where a large portion of land,
in the pofleffion of a poor tenant near’ the
ae : |
308
coalt, fuddenly journied into the fea; and,
while the unhappy man was bewailing the
lofs, not only of his crop, but likewife of the
territory on which it was growing, the land of
his neighbour, Mr. Fofter, travelled to the
fpot, and brought to him a crop of canes, which
continued to grow quite as well as before
they took their journey.
On cur approach to Col. Williams’s,
we were led into a fine valley of fruits,
which offered us the moft grateful refrefh-
ment that could have prefented itfelf. We
had been long riding in exceflive heat, and -
were parching with thirft ; when the Colonel,
without previoufly announcing it, conduéted
us to the point of a hill from which we fudden-
ly viewed a rich and golden orchard below.
Flevated as we were above the narrow gul-.
ly in which the fruits were rowing, our
fituation feemed in a degree vexatious and
tantalizing—but the Colonel only tempted
us, to augment our gratification, for we
quickly defcended, by a fteep and confined
path, into the midft of this region of {fweets 3
- where, had the fruit been prohibited as the
Boo
fatal apple of our firft parent, it had been
{carcely poffible we could have refitted the de-
fire- - - of tafting | Such grateful—{uch delici-
ous refrefhment never before had met our lips !
The oranges were not only ¢en times better than
the very beft in the world ; but they were ta- |
‘ken freth from the tree, and at a moment of
heat and parching thirft which was calculated
to render them fen thoufand times {weeter
then the f{weeteft of themfelves! But with-
out any hyperbolical flavor, they were, really,
and in plain fact, very fuperior to any oranges
I had ever tafted. We gathered and con-
fumed them in dozens, and, after having moft
oratefully allayed our burning thirft, we pro-
ceeded to explorethe extent, andthe many ex-
quifite produtions of this bounteous orchard,
by whofe delicious fruit, and fragrant odour,
three of our fenfes had been fo fumptuoufly
regaled: indeed I may fay four, for, like
Buffon’s automaton upon gaining his ex-
iftence, we gathered, and experienced a new
fenfe of delight - - - - from feeling the fruit.
~The orchard is planted in a narrow
gully between two hills, and is nearly half a
| x3
210
“mile in length. It abounds in the various
fpecies of the orange tribe—oranges, fhad-
docks, limes, lemons, and forbidden fruit
hanging in the moft inviting profufion. ‘The
banana, the plantain, and divers other fruits
ate likewife plenteoufly intermixed. It is
the employment of two negroes conftanly to
attend the orchard and prote& the fruit.
"The oranges we moft enjoyed, and which
were efteemed the beft in the colony, were
from a tree nearly a hundred years old, .
and the largeft upon the ifland. They were
{mall, but of moft exquifite flavor. I have
formerly enjoyed oranges even in England,
and have always held them a fine fruit;
but after tafting the incomparable produce of
the venerable centurian branch, I fear thofe to.
be met with in Britain will be infipid indeed. __
If you don’t feel a with for tropical thirft, and
fome oranges from the Colonel’s old tree, you
ought never to know the true flavor of
fruit!
_ Having made a moft delicious repaft in —
the fweet fhaded valley, we again mount-
ed our horfes, and, after a fhort ride, arrived —
Ry
at Col, Williams’s houfe. Here we enjoyed
the refrefhment of cold water and a change
of linen, and having taken a little time to
reft ourfelves, proceeded in great comfort
to eat our dinners in the open air under the
** focial rock.” Defcending from the houfe by
afteep path, we came into the valley, a fhort
diftance from the orchard, and pafled under
a large open arch of a rock, which formed
the grand entrance to a fuite. of natural
and romantic apartments. A little further in
the gully we came to an excavation called
the drawing-room ; and, beyond this, under
a ftupendous and impending part of the
rock, we found a {mooth and level {pot call-
ed the dining-room, which is fufficiently
{fpacious to accommodate a hundred people:
Here was placed the hofpitable board, which
- is often and liberally fpread by the friendly
Colonel ; and in this fequeftered fhade were
- affembled chairs, benches, wine, punch, fruit,
and all that could contribute to the eafe
and comfort of wearied travellers. But, in
truth, we were not of this clafs ; for the gra-
tification and high mental delight we had
experienced, had prevented all fenfe of
x 4
ae
bodily fatigue from our long and fcorching |
ride. | mee
We drank a glafs of punch, and explored
the deep caverns and various receffes of this
rocky retreat before the dinner was ferved.
About four o’clock we took our feats at table, :
having been in almoft conftant exercife from
fivein the morning. A hanging rock of ma-
dripores fhaded us above and behind ; and, in
the front, we had the breeze of the valley foftly
breaking its way to us through a plantation of
bamboos and fragrant limes, while, immedi-
ately before us, {moking viands, rich wines, and
delicious fruits crowned the board. Having
endeavoured to provoke your thirft for the
| oranges of the valley, I might further urge
your appetite in queft of the cray-fith foup
of the “ focial rock,’ for I do not know.
that I ever tafted any difh fo rich, or of fuch
exquifite flavor. But tell not this to our
friend - - - - - the newly eleGted alderman, un-
lefs he can fpare time for a trip to Barbadoes ;
where he might. feel compenfated for the
voyage, by feafting upon cray-fith foup, and
centurian oranges under the “ focial rock ;”
313
or, if thefe fhould not fuffice, I might enfure
him an ample reward for his journey, in the
_ fociety: of the hofpitable friends with whom
‘we partook the feaft.
In the evening the Colonel loaded us
home with fruits from the orchard; but the
party did not feparate until our kind friends
had planned for us a ftill more extenfive ma-
rooning excurfion ; to which I need {carcely
fay we gave our moft cordial confent. Ourre-
turn to Bridge-Town was peculiarly pleafant :
the moon fhone bright: the heat was mo-
derate, and we had quite the agreeable ride of
an Englith fummer evening. The diftance
is about eight miles, and as we defcended
from the higher to the lower land the air be-
came perceptibly clofer, until, at the town, the
breeze feemed to defert us, and we, no longer,
felt the cool perflation, which had been fo
grateful to us in the more elevated parts of
the ifland.
Never, perhaps, did a long and inter-
efting day pafs more pleafantly; nor was
hofpitality ever evinced with more friendly
314
urbanity. No attention was forgotten to ren-
der every thing comfortable and ‘agreeable
io Ws: a0. care. was ont ee promote or
forward our gratification. It feemed the ob-
je& of all to offer us every poffible accom-
modation, and to bring us acquainted, in the
happieft manner, with the country and its
inhabitants. We felt infinitely lefs of fatigue _
than might have been expected, from the
great diftance we had journied, and from the
length of time we were expofed to heat, and
exercife ; and the only alloy which in any
degree interrupted our enjoyment, through-
out this grateful day, was a fenfe of fuffering,
of which we could not wholly diveft ourfelves
concerning the poor flaves, who had to fup-
port, on foot, the very fame journey which,
in us, was regarded as a furprizing exertion
on horfeback. )
In the courfe of the day we repeatedly ©
made compaffionate appeals to the gen-
tlemen of the ifland concerning them, but
they as conftantly affured us that our pity
was mifplaced, adding that they were ac- —
cuftomed tothe exercife, and would fuffer
315
far lefs fatigue than ourfelves. Still our Eu-
ropean feelings forced upon us the with
that either they had been accommodated with
mules, or we had difpenfed with their at-
tendance; and it will require a much longer
refidence, amidft this new order of things,
before we fhall be able to perfuade ourfelves
that our fenfe of difquietude was only a
mifplaced humanity.
Upon reaching the Lord Sheffield we
experienced fome diminution of our plea-
furable feelings, by hearing that the Belfaft
tranfport, with troops, was taken and carried
into Guadalope; which intelligence had
been brought by the captain of an American
fhip, who had been detained by the captors
while they removed the prifoners.
I fhould have told you that in the courfe
of our long ride we had the opportunity of
feeing a very extenfive variety of the vegeta-
ble productions of the tropical world; and
that we met with multitudes of trees, fhrubs,
and plants, that were not before familiar to
us—and many which were wholly new
316
to our obfervation. Among ‘thofe which
moft attracted cur attention were the pi-
mento, wild cinnamon, ginger, caffia, caflada,
banana, plantain, tamarind, cafhew apple,
mango, fapadillo, papaw, mammee, fourfop,
goava, grenadillo, water lemon, oranges,
limes, lemons, fhaddock, forbidden fruit,
the aloe, logwood, mahogany, cedar, and lig-
num vite. The great ftaple produétions of
the Weft Indies,—fugar, cotton, and coffee,
were alfo brought frequently before the eye,
during this interefting excurfion. —
It appeared to us fomewhat remarkable
that, in thewhole extent of our tour, we fhould
not have feen any pines growing, except at one
fpot near Hilloughby hill, where they were re-
gularly planted as the crop of part of a fugar
field. Thefruit was not ripe; and therefore we
had no opportunity of comparingits flavor with
that of the pines of our Englith hot-houfes ;
and, confequently, none of judging whether
the cultivation of this plant is one of thofe
circumftances, as fome have aflerted, in which
art has been made to rival , or even to furpafs
the works of nature. Improbable as this
gt7
would feem, upon a firft view of the great
perfeGtion of nature’s productions, ftill a
further confideration renders it more than
poffible ; for, if animals can be improved by
culture; if the apple and the cabbage can be
rendered more ufeful, the pink and the tulip
more beautiful, by the hand of man ; and, if
the powers of our organs of vifion can be en-
larged by his refearches in the fcience of
optics ; what is there that fhall prevent him
from enriching the flavor of a tropical fruit,
in atemperate climate? It would feem, in-
deed, to require only an accurate and fteady
attention to the laws, and operations of na-
ture herfelf—not with a view to oppofe or
diftort the beautiful harmony of her works—
but to profit of the great leffon the fo li-
berally difplays, by direGting, towards the
one great object of our care, thofe means which
fhe is bufied in fupplying to all. Her boun-
ty is not confined to one plant, or one animal,
but is unlimited as the univerfe. It belongs
to her not only to fofter the fragrant pine
and the honied cane, but with equal care, to”
give pungency to eaplicuny and bitternefs
to the aloe.
318
If the growth and flavor of a pine de-
pend upon a certain degree of heat and light,
with a due proportion of air and moifture—
all thefe we have in England; and, from
careful obfervation, we may enable ourfelves
to fupply to this, or any other particular
plant, the neceflary quantum of thefe ele-
ments with a more undeviating certainty,
than will commonly be done by nature; fhe
having to difpenfe her means, not to one root
alone, but to all creation. The particular
degree of moifture neceflary for the pine
might injure the neighbouring coffee—the
appropriate quantity of air, might not be the
exa@t proportion required by the cotton—or
the precife ratio of light and heat might
differ from that demanded by the fugar cane!
But where man commands the difpofal he may.
dire&t the elements, in due degree, to his exoti¢
nurfling, and, avoiding the irregularities of
the natural climate, may learn to cultivate,
and to improve, at home, what nature never
gave to his native foil. :
- What a leffon of induftry is here taught
us, my friend ! How flattering is this fact to the
319
progreflive powers of our fpecies; and how
{ftrongly does it invite to their expanfion!
How immenfe, how boundlefs is the field
which it opens to new gratification and en-
joyment in the government of the vegetable
world: and how feducingly does it invite us
to the exercife of thofe talents, which all-
bountiful nature hath fo liberally beftowed
on man! But the fubje& would lead me be-
yond the limits of a letter, however delight-
ful, therefore, I muft not purfue it here.
320
LETTER XXVI.
Convoys and packet frill delayed. Single veffels arrive. Tranf=
ports taken by the enemy. Inhabitants anxious to have the
treops employed. Sailors defert from the Lord Shef-
field. Alarm concerning a boat's crew. Oars employed
as fails. Negroes in flave fbips taught to be ufeful.
Captains of Guineamen walk on fhore with parties of the
feip’s cargo. Book-binding not among the trades of
Barbadoes. Preparations for an excurfion to Hackleton’s
cliff. The church at Bridge-Town. . The Jignal-code.
Barbadoes, Feb.
Wee fill remain without any accurate in-
telligence refpeting the great body of our
convoy: and, having no tidings of the com-
mander in chief, we continue in equal uncer-
tainty when we may proceed to our original
deftination, at St. Domingo. All here is fuf-
-penfe and anxiety. The folicitude of the
mercantile world is not lefs than that of the
military. No packet is arrived ; the affairs of
commerce are interrupted ; we have no news
of Europe or the war, and all feems fhut in
ignorance, or abforbed in painful uncertainty.
Strageling veflels of cur difaftrous fleet eon-
~
324 )
‘Ainue to arrive ; and, from thefe, we catch
with eagernefs, every report, but ftill with-
out acquiring any thing fatisfactory. Some
feparated on one day; fome another; and
fome another: but with refpedt to the a€tual
fate of the convoy all is {till enveloped in
‘doubt and incertitude.
Moft unhappily our difappointment and
our regrets aré further augmented by the
painful intelligence of frequent captures be-
ing made by the enemy’s privateers. From
the veflels coming out, in this difperfed and
divided manner, the cruifers, from Guada-
lope, are but too fuccefsful, in picking up
numbers of our unarmed, and unprotected
tran{ports. — | |
_A thip which arrived this day reports
that the parted from the Admiral and a hun-
dred fail of the convoy, on the feventh of
January, in latitude 45, longitude 17. This
‘is received, by fome, as favorable intelligence,
it feeming to firengthen the hope that the
fleet has not Been under the neceility of
again putting back to Cork, or Spithead.
But it is now fo long fince, the feventh
VOL. J. X¥
222
of January, and we have known in the
interval fuch violent,—fuch repeated and
long continued gales, that, to many of us,
this news is equally unfatisfattory as all we
had heard before. So little does it meet our
hopes, that we have ftill many apprehenfions
left the majority of the convoy,may have
been obliged to return to Ireland or to En-
eland. Between five and fix thoufand troops
have reached Barbadoes in the fhips already
arrived, and the inhabitants of the Iflands
exprefs fad regret and impatience at fee-.
ing fuch a body of men remain fo long
unemployed. Looking to the fpot moft
in danger, or concerning which. they feel -
a more immediate intereft, they with that
to be made fecure, forgetful, that were the
troops to be divided as they might with, and
detached on different fervices, before the ar-
rival of the commander in chief, with the
remainder of the armament, the great object”
of the expedition might, thereby, be al-
_ together sai ave ei
Unhappily die fineft feafon is paffing |
away---and before the whole army can have™
-atrived, and be brought:into adtion, the rainy
323
period will be faft approaching ; but, as many
of the men already here-are in a fickly flate, we
hope the delay may prove beneficial to them,
by affording them an opportunity of reco-
vering from the ills of the voyage, and of
their long confinement on board, before they
enter upon the fatigues of the campaign.
‘They are daily taken on fhore to relieve them ©
from the clofe atmofphere of the tranfports;
and, from being regularly exercifed, they will
have the advantage of becoming, in fome
degree, acclimates previous to being ordered
upon actual fervice.
A report is current here that the Spanitfh
part of the ifland of St. Domingo has refufed
to fubmit to the French; and that the go-
vernor has fent down to. Jamaica to demand
protection from the Englith. If fuch be the
fact, it leads to additional regret refpefting
the unfortunate delays of this powerful ar-
mament: a very confiderable part of which
is f{uppofed to be deftined for St. Domingo.
We learn from our captain that an
_ alarming defertion is taking place. among the
failors of his fhip. Six have already ab-
sige’
324
feonded, and the number of our crew is fé»
duced to fourteen. ' This intelligence makes
us apprehenfive left, by the time we fail for
St. Domingo, we may not have enough hands
to work the fhip. But we are confoled
in the recollection that the friendly trades
will be dire&@ly in our favor; and that we
cannot require fo ftrong a fhip’s company
as amidit the terrific, and adverfe gales which
ite long belet us on our paflage hither.
A fad alarm has {pread th roughout the
harbour, and we have been all in vivid
and anxious concern, refpecting the fate
of twelve men who went out ina flat-bot-
tomed boat to confign to the deep bofom
of the ocean, the body of a deceafed fhip-
mate. Defirous not to throw over the
corpfe within the harbour, where it would
be inftantly devoured by the numerous
fharks which infeft the bay, and which we
- fee almoft daily ftealing round the veffels in
fearch of prey, they rowed fo far out to fea
as to be unable to pull back again ; and the
tide being againft them, their heavy boat, not-
withftanding all their efforts to row her
-into the harbour, was fet adrift, and earried
325
out into the wide Atlantic, with all hands on
board. The captain finding it long before
his men returned, grew very apprehenfive
regarding their fafety. A general alarm
fpread throughout the bay; and extending
likewife to the fhore, multitudes foon co-
vered the beach, while the fhrouds, and
yards of the fhips, were thronged with an-
xious crowds looking out for the funeral
party. No boat appeared, and the fears refpect-
ing the perilous fituation of the party becom=
ing univerfal, two f{chooners were difpatched
in fearch of them. Happily the weather
and the waves were moderate, or the whole
had certainly been loft, for the boat was found
adrift at open fea! Fortunately all the men
were in her, and were brought back in fafety
to the harbour, exprefling themfelves very
thankful for their unexpected deliverance
from the jaws of hungry ocean,
.A ftrong contraft, to the dangerous fitu-
ation of thefe poor men, was offered in the
repofe of fome other boats’ crews, whom we
’ perceived fitting at reft in their boats, and fail-
ing about the harbour by means of their
—Qars 5 a cuftom which we find to be common
¥3
326
here; for we often fee parties of negroes,
boatmen, and failors, {cud indolently about
ithe bay, employing their oars by way of fails. -
They fix the handles of them at the bottom ©
of the boat, and fetting them up, two on
each fide, with the flat furface to the wind,
colle& a fuficiency of the breezeto carry the
boat along without the trouble of rowing.
The captains of the Guineamen often re-
lieve their fhips’ company from the duty of
_ the boat, by training fome of their black carga
to the ufe of the oar.—Indeed fo ufeful do
many of the negroes become, during the
pallage, and the time they are detained on
board, that their affiftance is of much fervice —
in working the veffel. We occafionally fee
the mafter of a flave fhip rowed afhore by
four of his naked Africans, who appear as
dexterous, in the management of the boat,
as if they had been for years accuftomed to it,
Often we obferve the captains’ parading
the flreets, accompanied by parties of their
prime flaves—apparently with the intention ~
of exhibiting them to the eye of the public,
in found flate and ggod cendition, This
’ r
327
contributes, at the fame time, to the health
and amufement of thefe poor beings, who
feem delighted at feeling their feet on fhore,
and, in due obedience to their captain, dance
and frolic as they go along, either in real, or
in well diflembled contentment and happi-
nefs.
I made a vifit on fhore this morning
in the intention of leaving fome books to be
bound, which, you will remember, [ brought
out, in fheets, from the printer ; but you will
be furprifed to learn that no fuch perfon as
a book-binder could be found in Barbadoes.
We called on Mr. Hinde, and were informed
that, by the affiftance of his friends Mefirs.
Jordan and Maxwell, he had provided horfes
for our intended “* Marooning party’ to Hac-
-kleton’s Cliff, and the northern coaft of the
ifland; when, upon our apologizing for be~
ing fo troublefome to him, and his friends,
and obferving that we had fent our fervants
to hire horfes for the journey, he replied
that no apologies could be neceflary, for it
would be “ quite inconfiftent with Barbadoes’
to fuffer ftrangers to have the trouble of pro-
curing horfes, or of feeking, for themfelves,
Yass it
528
the accommodations of a ‘country excur-
fion.” |
Mr. Hinde accompanied us. in our walk
to different parts of the town, and to fee the:
church, which is a plain and neat edifice,
built much upon the plan of Greenwich
chapel; the interior is fitted up with enclofed —
feats of cedar, regularly confiruéted in the
modern ftyle. It is alfo furnifhed with a hand=-
fome organ.
The fhip being made our head quarters,
it is a great fource of amufement to us while
we remain in harbour, to obferve the differ-
ent fignals made at the flag ftaff, at the en-
trance of the Bay, when any veflels appear
within fight. Indeed the hourly expectation
of the fleet has made the fignal-ftaff fo much
an object of our ftudy, that fearcely’a flag
can be hoified but we inftantly comprehend
the intelligence it is meant to convey to the
Governor, at Pilgrim, from whence the fig.
nals are anfwered. Mafter, in particular, is
become fuch an adept in this fcience, and’ is.
fo entirely au fait to the fignal code, that,
fhould a vacancy occur, during our continu-
329
ance here, it is propofed to recommend Dr.
Robert Mafter, phyfician to the forces; as a.
proper perfon for the appointment of Szgval- |
Mafter-General, for Carlifle bay, and the
_ whole of the bays and promontories of his
Majefty’s ifland of Barbadoes.
339
LETTER XXVIL
Mareoning excurfion to the windward coaft of Barbadoesa.
Harrifon's Cave. Sugar Hill. Soes River. Unhappy
fate of the Rev. Mr. H. its late poffeffar. Bay-bcufe. Beer-
foeba. Animal flower. Hackleton’s cliff. Mules of the
_ Alps. Ginger plantation. Colleton eftate. Urbanity of
Mr. Hollingsworth and family. Codrington coliege. Coach —
Fill. . Negroes dine in the open-field expofed to the fun.
Mode of claying fugar. Eccentric manager of Kendalt
eftate. Drax-hall. Barbadoes one of the * Friendly Fes.”
Spendlove eftate. Hofpitality and benevolence of Mr. Fobn .
Waith. Fat people not uncommon in Barbadoes. Gratt-
tude of faves. Negro privileges. Picturefque fcenery of a
Negro yard. Market held on Sunday. Supphed by Ne=
groes. Sprats, lobfters, and milk punch ferved after dine -
ner. Myr. Waith, fen. invites the Party to a Barbadoes.
farimer’sedinner. Difappointment refpecting Mr. Elleock’s
botanical collection. Compenfation by recommending it to the
attention of Dr. Wright. General remarks concerning the
-excurfiott. ;
4
- Barbadoes, Feb. 27.
WE have made our projected Marooning
excurfion to Hackleton’s Cliff, and the wind-
ward coaft of the ifland, as planned by our
friends at the “focial rock,” and how often,
in the courfe of it, did my thoughts wander
to another friend, withing yet ‘one addition,
to the party ! | :
4 | |
332
On the 23d inf. we went off before
fix inthe morning to Bridge- Town, where
we found flaves, horfes, and every necef-
fary for the journey, provided by the
friendly Mr. Hinde, and in readinefs for our
departure. It was arranged, that we fhould
avail ourfelves of the early fee of the day,
_by proceeding to Col. Williams’s before break-
faft.. The morning was dull; the fky low-
ered, and it threatened rain; but none fell,
and from the fun being obfcured, the air was
pleafantly cool. E
We rode flowly as far as Dr. Hinde’s,
where we were joined by the Dodtor, and Mr.
Abel Hinde, and Mr. Jordan. Upon our
arrival at Col. Williams’s,; we found- the
breakfaft board moft bounteoufly fpread, and
the Col. prepared to take an ative part in the
expedition, After breakfafling with good
appetite, and being well refted and refrefhed,
we left the * focial rock,” to purfue our route,
in the true Marooning fpirit of making a
home whenever we might require it, or.
wherefoever we might find it, availing our-
felves of whatever dwelling might prefent
_itfelfin our path. The firft objet which met
\
332
our attention was within about half a. mile
of the Col.’s houfe, where we ftopped to ex-.
plore one of the greateft natural curiofities.
of the Ifland—a very extenfive fubterraneous.
cavern, called “ Harrifon’s Caye.” Its hid-
den mouth opens among the rocks of a deep
narrow gully, between two lofty hills. There
we forfook the world of light, and defcended.
into the dark regions of the earth, in order:
to advance to the bottom of the fombre depths,
before us. Our way was intricate and ob-
{cure. Taking with us three Negroes, with
lights, we defcended by narrow windings, or
{pacious openings, by broad walks, or narrow
crooked paths, over loofe ftones, or rocky, |
ficeps. At one moment we found ourfelves
nder a fine arch or dome, hung with clufters.
of petrifaQions ; at another we were in a ~
narrow aifle, whofe walls, and impending
wault, faintly glittered with multiform ineruf- |
tations. By the fenfes of feeling and hear-
ing, more than by fight, we judged of the
varying uncertainty of our fituation, and ad-
vanced in perilous fep—now confined, now
in more open fpace, until we reached a {pot
where we came to a gentle rivulet, foftly
Realing along its fubterraneous bed.in a pure ©
333.
and cryftal ftream. A few foft rays, eleam«
ing fromi above, filvered over the furfate, and
exhibited all the purity of this limpid cur-
rent, conveying, amidft fome fimilirudes of
- fituation and of fcene, precifely the reverfe of
the difmal waters of Acheron, which are re-
prefented by the poets as wandering in oy
gloomy dark, where
Above no fky is feen ; below
A turbid wave is feen to flow.
But here the fky did appear above, for it
was feen at a circular opening, cut through the
foil and the folid rock, to the depth of thirty
or forty fathoms, and refembled the pale moon,
or the brighter orb of day, divefted of his
‘flery rednefs, and his golden beams. The
wave, too, was any thing but turbid; indeed,
it was fo invitingly clear and pure, that we
were tempted to drink of its limpid ftream.
Together with our artificial lights, the
mild rays from the opening above, pene-
trating to the very bottom of the cave, dif
played the hanging tubes of ftalactites, and the ©
various furrounding petrifactions, in a pécu-—
hharly interefting and romantic manner:
7) pe
t¢ Here incruftations ftrike the eyes:
There fpangled domes, with luftre bright,
Beam down an artificial light ;
Whience penfile hang, in gothic thew |
Defcending to the ce below,
Fantaftic forms Ni
After contemplating the fine pellucid
ftream, and the pendant vaults, the arches,
and receffes around, we proceeded onwards to
a confiderable diftance beyond: the rivulet,
until the intricate path became more and more |
difficult, and the gloomy cavern feemed to
clofe upon usin dark, and endlefs deep. The
feeble taper now fcarcely illumined the fpot —
whereon we ftood, while all before us was
buried in the profoundeft darknefs. The
' path grew ftill more uncertain and irregular: |
here we bent our perfons- almoft double to
pafs under arugged arch; there defcended a _
fudden fteep; then, again, we had‘to {cram-
ble up a craggy and projeQing mafs: prefent-
ly we turned the fharp corner of a rock, into ©
a narrow paflage, between huge walls of ftone; ©
next we opened into a more {pacious vault;
foon our way was again confined, or our
heads ftruck the hanging petrifa€tions above.
At one moment we trod on the firm rock, at
335
another our fteppings were upon loofe ftoness
and, perhaps, the following inftant we found "
our feet in water, or upon dampearth: now
we feemed to have reached the utmoft depth
of the cave—then we ftepped fuddenly into —
a wide fpace. At length we reached the
fartheft extent that had been explored, but
unlimited windings feemed yet to lead on,
in dark and terrific gloom, to the very centre
of the earth. |
Having no other lights than two or,
three open tapers, we did not feel it prudent
to venture farther into paflages unexplored,
and -more particularly as the road we had
pafied, had been fo obfcure and perplexing
that, in cafe of any accident occurring to
extinguifh our light, we might not have been
able to have traced our way back, to the
mouth of the cave. Hence we declined pro-
ceeding any deeper into this filent tomb of
the earth; and turned about to retrace our
fieps to a brighter feene. Feeling better
aflured refpeGting our path we now more |
leifurely contemplated the ftupendous walls of
rock, the varied incruftations, and ponderous |
maffes of ftalactites, the multitudes of mad-
i
336
ripores, and other calcareous concretions, |
formed by nature from the limpid diftilling ©
drop, which were feen on all fides, alfo above
and below, and hanging round about our heads
in an endlefs variety of romantic and fanc-
iful forms.
The air, in moft parts of the cave, was
confined and warm, but, occafionally, we
felt it damp and chilly. On our way back,
at a narrow pafs, where we had been obli-
ged to bend low the knee in order to creep
under the arch of a rock, we perceived it
rufh in ftrong current; and here the whole
of our lights were fuddenly extinguithed,
and we were fhut in the dark and hollow
bowels of the earth, unable to explore our
way to the mouth of thecavern. Unhappily,
too, we were confined in a damp current
of air, where we were compelled to fland —
_fhivering with cold, while Col. Williams and
the Negroes, who had been ‘often in the
cave, felt their way, at great hazard, to the
‘opening, to procure new lights, ‘\We remained
buried in the filent feclufion of this fubterrane-
‘ous abode for nearly an hour; and when the
diftant found of our conductct’s feet returned
Fae
upon our ears, and the foft glimmerings of
light again ftole into the folemn depths of the
cave, the effect was uncommonly ftriking and
beautiful. Watching carefully as the negroes
approached, we at one moment faw the rays
of light gleam upon their dark {kins, gilding
them as it were with fire, and giving them the
appearance of the fons of Satan. Prefently
we loft them in profound obfcurity, then
again, the imperfect rays ftretched towards us,
and at one moment we faw indiftin@ly the
blacks defcend' from a rock, and at another
perceived them fuddenly rife as from the deep.
Again the light difappeared and we only heard ©
their diftant hollow founding fteps: then
they efcaped from a narrow paflage or
confined recefs, and were feen ftepping forth
under an open and fpacious arch, where the ~
heavy rocks, the vaulted dome, the petrified
columns, the mafly tubes, and impending cluf-
ters of glittering concretions, together with
the folemn echo, the fiery blacknefs of the
negroes, and the fpreading rays of artificial
light, partially abforbed, or feebly reflected,
produced an effe@t, which was awfully ro-
mantic and fublime.
VOL, I. , Z
ten
338 .
In fuch a fituation, buried in darknefs
and fepulchral filence, you will agree that it
required but little aid of fancy to create pic-
tures of horror, or to figure to the imagination
the mighty abode of terrors and of punifh-
ments. Call to your recolleGtion the effect
fometimes produced ‘at the theatre, when the
lights are withdrawn, and a few imperfect
rays are thrown upon the dark fkins of ne-
groes, and you will readily allow that when
our eyes firft caught thefe Africans, at a dif-.
tant part of the cavern, it {carcely required the
powers of fancy to convert them into de-—
mons of darknefs, approaching us with the
tormenting flames of their dread parent; and
you may fuppofe us tracing in our minds the —
_ various degrees of punifhment merited by the -
wicked, each of the party fixing upon that.
to which his fecret feelings feemed to confign .
him. Such an ajffociation did a@tually occupy
our minds, and in ftillnefs we watched the
approach of thefe fpirits of darknefs, while
the awful gloom around us, the oblivious
feclufion, .the dead filence, the occafional
gleamings of imperfe light, and the fable
fkins of the negroes obfufcated by the par-
tial rays, all confpired to fix our contempla-
:
SS aes
idee
v. ?
vie 4
‘ oe
339
tions to ) the manfions of the valcMeds and by
the time thefe fable beings had seaghtd us, we
had fo powerfully traced the images of the
black fpirits below, that it was difficult to per-
fuade ourfelves they were only black bodies,
bringing us lights from above.
But the voice of the good Colonel, who
had accompanied them, foon roufed us from
our reverie, and reminded us that, however
difmal our abode, it was not that bourn from
whence notravellers return: we now haftened
to change our bed of darknefs for brighter re-
gions, but were obliged to tread our way
in cautious fteps towards the exit of the
cave, for the path was intricate and perilous.
As we approached the opening we extinguifhed
the artificial lights, in order to enjoy the ap-
pearance of the foft rays which ftole in at the
entrance of the cave, richly gilding the rocks
and petrifactions, and gradually though irregu-
larly increafing until we again met the bright-
nefs of day.
_ At our firft efcaping from the cave, the
- ftrong light of a tropical fun, falling through
the widely dilated pupils of our eyes, pro-
duced a confiderable degree of pain, we there-
Z2
340
fore remained a fhort time in the gully be-
fore we again mounted our horfes; and then
proceeded to a point called Sugar-hill, from
whence we obtained an extenfive and very
beautiful view of the parifhes of Scotland,
and theromantic parts of the ifland which we
had before vifited.
Near to Sugar-hill we called at a cottage
to give directions for fome oranges to be fent
down to the “ Bay-houfe,’ a place we were
to vifiten route. Here we met with two fair
cottagers, the healthy looking daughters of
the old dame of the houfe, who, though lefs
ruddy, were not lefs {miling than the lovely
and blooming peafants of old England ; and
who, notwithftanding the want of rofy ah
had pretty Englith faces.
After enjoying the fweet views of Sugar-
hill, and witnefling the fweeter {miles of the
neighbouring young cottagers, we were con-
ducted to the home of a Mr. Haynes, where
we were received with a warm Barbadoes
greeting, and welcomed with franknefs and a
cordial hofpitality.. We refted only a few
minutes, when Mr. Haynes and his fon join-
341
ed our party, and accompanied us to a neigh-
bouring eftate called “ Joe’s River,” a moft
beautiful fpot, and quite the elyfium of the
Wland. Until lately it has been in the poffef-
fion of the Rev. Mr. H., a man of much ge=
nius and learning, whofe lofs is deeply re-
gretted by all, but more particularly by the
literati of the ifland. He was a {cientific
botanift, and as much refpected for his lite-
rary talents, and extenfive information, as
revered for his benevolent and focial difpofi-
tion.
The houfe is finely fituated on elevated
ground near the fea, furrounded with exten-
five plantations of the choiceft trees and
tropical fruits. The garden and orchard had
long been the devoted objects of his care.
It was his with to procure an ufeful and orna-
mental aflemblage of all the rare fruits and
plants of the tropical regions: and in this
intention he had already obtained a numerous
and valuable collection, which, through his
induftry and preferverance, was almoft daily
increafing. His private hours were pafled in
literary purfuits. Much of his time was de-
203
es | |
voted to his favorite ftudy of Natural Hiftory,
and to realizing the improvements fuggefted
by his contemplations. In fociety he was con-
vivial; to his flaves he was kindand humane;
and, pofleifing great urbanity, he was benevo-
Jent and friendly to all. ,
The fates that rule our deftiny are faid to
be blind; and you will agree that they muft
indeed have wanted fight, when you are told
that they have thrown this efteemed and valu-
able man iato dire diftrefs, and robbed him
of the powers of his enriched and highly or-
namented mind. Bereft of his mental. facul-
ties, of all thofe fine and comprehenfive ta-
lents which fo adorned and honored him,
both as a prieft and a man, he now languifhes
~ in fadnefs and misfortune, loft to his friends,
and the world; and the happy dwelling ©
which was graced by hofpitality and benevo-
lence, enriched by induftry, and dignified by |
{cience; that delightful home, the object of his
anxious cares and ftudies, as well as the proud —
and juft boaft of the ifland, is now left to fall
into ruin and decay. The broken walls, the —
hidden paths, the fhattered doors and win-
343
dows, the wild neglected trees, the obtrufive
weeds, and half covered walks all befpeak, —
in doleful decline, its formér beauty ; and
while they create a fcene, at once romantic
and picturefque, excite the moft painful feel-
ings of regret, and lead to gloomy reflections
concerning the inftability of all earthly things,
The objects around convey the image of the
mafter’s now difordered mind, and the whole
place feems to deplore in fympathetic fadnefs
the melancholy derangement of his once rare
and fplendid faculties: and truly may it be
faid that Joe’s river mourns the fhattered in-
telleét, and participates, in foft and faft wither-
ing forrow, the affliGing ills that have be-
fallen this diftinguifhed ornament of Barba-
does.
Having viewed every part of this inter-
efting eftate, with a minutenefs of attention
which was merited, equally by its fituation
and improvements, as by the painful hiftory
‘of its late accomplifhed owner, we left it with
regret, earneftly fympathizing with our
friends in the fad lofs they fo Pavey and fo
juftly deplored. 3 doe
| Zz 4 :
344
We now proceeded to'the fea-fide, and
our next place of call was at a cottage termed
the Bay-houle, -a neat little building erected
by Mr. Haynes, under a rock upon the open
beach, to ferve as a place of reft and refrefh-
ment for fuch of his friends, and, in great
truth may we fay, his friends’ friends, who
may chance to vifit the windward coaft,
We found it the rendezvous of entertainment
and repofe. Intimation had been conveyed
to the generous owner that it might perhaps .
~ be in our way to make an ex paffant vifit at
the Bay-houfe, and he had availed himfelf of
the information to provide a rich and bounti-
ful repaft. All the good things of the ifland
feemed to have been colleéted. The whole
neighbourhood had been ranfacked for our
convenience and accommodation. The beft
productions from all quarters were direéted
hither to fupply the hofpitable board. Cook,
butler, fifhermen, fervants, and flaves were
all aflembled to give their attendance, The
net was thrown into the fea immediately —
before the door, and the fithes that were ta- _
ken were prefently {moking upon the table;
fruits, wines, meat, poultry, and vegetables
were brought in loads, and made only a part
845
of the feaft of this little cottage, built by
generous hofpitality, and dedicated to friend-
fhip and focial harmony. A fupply of pro-
vifions was likewife collected for the refrefh-
ment of our flaves and horfes, and thefe
were regaled with no lefs liberality than their
_ mafters —the friendly hofpitality of the “‘ Bay-
houfe” being extended equally to all.
Punch and mandram were ferved to us
_ before dinner, the one to quench our thirft,
the other to provoke the appetite; and foon
afterwards were fet before us a variety of
_ difhes, confifting of boiled, ftewed, and broiled
fith, a cold roafted lamb, a cold turkey, fowls,
tongues, cray-fifh, anda multitude of other
good things. After we had dined very abun-
dantly the table was covered with punch, a
variety of excellent wines, and feveral fpecies
of fruit. Among the latter was a fine pine, the
firft we had tafted inthe ifland. I do not know
that the flavor was fuperior to that of fome of
the pines I have tafted fromthe hot-houfes of —
England, although it certainly was very ex~
quifite: but I muft tafte again, and often,
before I hazard a general opinion upon this
fubject.
346
Having plentifully refrefhed ourfelves,
and the flaves and-horfes being well fed and
yefted, wecalled the negroes from their defert
of rolling and bafking in the fun, and pro-
ceeded upon our journey. ‘To our great fur- —
prize, at the very moment the horfes appeared
at the door for our departure, a large dith of
fprats, {moking from the gridiron, and an
immenfe bow] of milk-punch, were fet before
us. This was quite a Weft Indian addition to
the repaft. Having eaten very heartily, and
indulged in copious libations, we had already
done even too much in the way of feafting,
but, to my great aftonifhment, fome of the
party partook with a renewal of appetite
which was rather indicative of fitting down
to dinner, than of rifing from table. At two
o’clock we had commenced with punch;
- after which came the mandram; at three
was ferved the dinner: bufy eating and drink-
ing continued until five; and then appeared
the {prats, and bowl of milk-punch : thus did
nearly four hours pafs in high banquetting
and conviviality at this focial cottage. At
length, due honors having been done to the
punch and {prats, we again put ourfelves ex
route, the party ‘being’ increafed by the ad-
347
dition of Mr. Haynes jun., who accompa-,
nied us throughout the remainder of the day. |
We rode along the fands to a {pot called Beer-
fheba, which is ufed as anatural bathing place,
among the rocks, and from thence proceeded
to a large mafs of rocks, lying in the water,
near to the edge of the fea, where we had
the expectation of feeing a very curious natu-
ral production called the animal flower. But
here we were unluckily difappointed ; for the
tide being in, the fea running high, and the
wind ftrong, we were unable to reach the
{pot where this phenomenon of nature is
ufually found,
Although we loft the opportunity of fee-
ing it, I cannot refrain from giving you the
account of this uncommon flower, and its
dwelling place, as communicated to us by
our brother Maroons. It is as follows :—
Within a deep cave, formed in the rock, is a
' f{pacious natural bafon of water, which is
about eleven feet above low water mark. It
is collected from the fea beating into the cave
in rough weather; and hence, that which
lodges in this bafon is entirely falt water, ex-
cept a very {mall admixture from rain, which
348
diftils in drops, through the {mall openings
of the rock. In the middle of the bafon isa
large ftone, or piece of detached rock, which
is ufually covered with water. About this
ftone, and adhering to its fides, as if grow-
ing therefrom, are feen numbers of apparently
beautiful flowers, finely variegated in vivid
colours, and of radiated form, fomewhat re-
fembling the petals of the garden marigold.
Some are of a pale yellow, or a light ftraw
colour, tinged with green; others of a grey-
ifh purple, variegated with black fpots.
To gather any of thefe feeming flowers —
is a tafk of difficulty, for when the hand ap-
proaches them, the- beautiful petals inftantly
contrat, and become invifible. If left un-
difturbed they re-appear, in the courfe of a
few minutes, gradually expanding into their
former bloom ; but again retire, with furpriz-
/ ing quicknefs, on the approach of the hand, |
a cane, or any other body that oat be di-
rected towards them.
This circumftance, as you will expec,
led to early inveftigation regarding the nature
of this fingular flower, when, inftead of a fine
349
~ blowing vegetable, it was difcovered to be ati
- animal that was decorated with all this gaiety
of Bocing 5 and hence the name “ ani-
mal flower.”
On examination the body is found to be
of a blackifh hue, lefs than an inch in length,
and about a quarter of an inch in thicknefs:
It adheres by one end to the rock, and from
the other extremity, which projects outwards, |
are thrown off a number of fine membranous
filaments, in a radiated and circular form ; and
from the point or head, at the centre of this
circle, proje& four long flender fibrils, not
unlike the legs of the fpider. Thus, while the
body appears as the calyx, and the expanded |
filaments as the petals, thefe fibrils ferving as
the ftamina, complete the refemblance of a
regular and beautiful flower,
It has been fuggefted, that as this animal
is almoft wholly deprived of locomotive
power, the fine colours, given to the mem-
branous filaments, ferve as a provifion of
nature, to allure and bring within its reach
the {maller infe&ts, upon which it feeds; and
from the quick fpontaneous motion of the
3:0
ws
fine central threads, from fide to fide, or
round the whole border of the radiated cir-
cle, thefe would feem to be defigned to a&
as forceps, for conveying the food to the
mouth, the extended filaments ferving as
antenna, or feelers, to difcover the prey, and
from their contractile power enclofing it, when
feized, as in a purie, or facculus, until it is
devoured. With much difappointment at not
being able to fee this natural curiofity of the
ifland, we left the coaft, in order to afcend the
mountainous fummit, called Hackleton’s Cliff,
—the only {pot which difputes with Hiloughby
hill the claim of being the loftieft point of
Barbadoes. The path was rugged, and fin-
gularly precipitate. ‘To walk up it was a de-
gree of fatigue which, it was infifted, Euro-
peans ought not to encounter; and to ride
was not free from danger, befides being a
cruel Jabour to the poor horfes. But.as it was
contended that they would better fupport the
toil than ourfelves, we were induced to con-
tinue upon our faddles, although, indeed, with
much difficulty, from the rapid rifing of the
afcent. By ftopping frequently to let the
poor animals recover their breath, we did, at
length, reach the fummit; but never before
|
a5
vhad I fat upon a horfe to climb fo fleep a
mountain. Inthe Alps of Switzerland, and
of Savoy, it is not unufual to ride {mall
horfes, called Mountain Ponies, over the lef-
fer hills; but previous to afcending the more
lofty and fleeper mountains thefe are always
changed for mules; and with them I have
often ventured up afcents even more nearly
perpendicular than Hackleton’s Cliff. But
the mule is a more quiet, a more enduring,
and more patient animal. He is not irafcible
and impetuous like the horfe, and moreover,
in fuch fituations he is fo accuftomed to the
_ climbing of mountains, that he appears fen-
fible of all the dangers around him, and is
careful in every movement, to confult the
fafety of himfelf and his rider. Only give
him the bridle, or as the guides fay, “* laiffex
lui aller,” and in the moft perilous fituations
you.need not feel yourfelf in any danger. His
fagacity is equal to his care: he looks with
caution at each ftepping, and he knows his
foot to be fecure, before he ventures to.
bear upon it the weight of his body. I re-
member to have rode at firft, in much fear
and trembling ; but upon witnefling the dex-
_ terity of the animal my terrors gave way ta
$54
aftonifhment; and my aftonifhment gradually
yielded to a placid fecurity, until, at length,
I could throw the rein upon the neck of the
mule, and regard the frightful precipices, and
imminent dangers around us, without any
~ apprehenfion. — ita
In the Alpsa mule will carry you up
mountains which are fo fteep as to appear
from the valley quite perpendicular, pro-
ceeding by a narrow path, in which he cannot
poffibly turn himfelf round, and paffing clofe
by the edge of the moft terrific precipices,
climbing only by means of irregular holes
made among the roots of trees, or ftep-
pings roughly broken in the rock; yet have,
you only to give him the bridle and fit ftill,
holding by the mane to keep yourfelf from
flipping back, and you are in the utmoft
~ fafety. |
But I muft return from the Alps, and
tell you that in confequence of our feafting
delay at the Bay-houfe, and the time re-
quired to afcend the cliff, we found the even-
ing ftealing upon us before we came to the
top. The fun had already funk -too low, to
353
gild the landfcape with its rays, or to enliven
the view of the ocean, with the brightnefs
-which fhone upon our vifit to Hillough-
by hill; but, from what Ihave already faid
of that, your imagination will readily fuggeft
to you the beauties of the fcenery, and the
extent of the profpe€& from Hackleton’s
Cliff From viewing the delightful variety
around, under the defcending rays of declin-
ing day, the effect was newand pleafing. A foft
and placid picture fucceeded to the ftrong and ©
vivid colours of noon: the landfcape, though
lefs bright, was, perhaps, not lefs interefting ;
and, as we had vifited Mount Hilloughby in
the full glow of day, we did not lament that
we faw Hackleton’s Cliff under the gentle and
retiring beams of evening.
Unexpectedly we found the top of the
cliff to be a wide extended furface, covered
with herbage, and fo gradually declining on
the oppofite fide, that on turning our faces
from the fteep precipice of the eaft, we
appeared to be upon a wide plain, inftead of
a rude fummit, or nearly the higheft point of
land in the ifland. On the cliff we vifited the
eftate of Mr. Stewart, at which is a pleafant —
WOOL. I. AA
354
houfe, delightfully fituated, near the moft lofty
part of this high fummit, bearing no appearance
of being fo elevated, or within fo fhort a
diftance of the ftupendous precipice which is
near to it. |
Ginger is the produce of the plantation. -
We faw great quantities of this root fpread
before the houfe, upon a large fquare neatly
paved, for the purpofe of drying it previous
to fending it to market. : |
From Mr. Stewart’s we proceeded to the
Colleton eftate, where we purpofed taking up
our quarters for the night. On our way
I happened to learn that the gentleman of
the houfe was not apprized of our intended
vifit; and on difcovering this, it feemed to
me only a neceflary civility to acquaint him.
with it, I therefore propofed that we fhould
difpatch an avant courier to announce our ap=
proach, left, from defcrying fo large a party,
unexpectedly, the family might verily believe
us to be a hordeof Maroons; or, {till worfe,
might miftake us for a foraging party of
citeyens-foldats, coming to levy contributions —
upon the efiate ; but I was defired to fufpend
905
‘hy anxiety, and be affured that we fhould
not fail to meet with good accommodations,
and a fincere welcome, by only announcing
ourfelves zz propriis perfonibus ; and this in-
formation proved to be perfectly corre@, for
Mr. Hollingfworth greeted us cordially, and
entertained us in all the genuine hofpitality
of the ifland. Eight vifitors, eight flaves,
and eight horfes, thus dropping in unexpect-
edly, and at night, were received with fuch
kindnefs and unaffected urbanity as to af-
fure us that thrice the number would have
- been joyfully welcomed. No cold, nor for-_
bidding ceremony; no feeming hurry nor
confufion; no derangement of the houfehold
appeared. We were all immediately at home ;
no mark of furprize, or inconvenience was
evinced; not an individual was incommoded 3
the duties of the family were continued; nor
was there the flighteft mark of interruption in
any department of this hofpitable home. The
ufual order was maintained, and it only ap-
peared as though we were a part of the family.
The mauvaife bonte, the confufion and embar-
raflment but too common, upon fimilar oc-
cafions in England, were utterly unknown ;
-and we at once belonged to thefamily. The
1 ae, a? a
356
brimming punch-bowl was fet before us, and
pleafant lively converfation prevailed until fup-
per calied usto further feafting, which conti-
nued until the hour of repofe. After fupper
Mifs Hollingfworth kindly, as fweetly, added
foft melody to complete the nee of the -
entertainment.
We retired to reft, according to the cuf-
tom of the country, at an early hour. Drs.
Mafter, Cleghorn, and myfelf were accom-
modated in cone fpacious room. It was the
firft night we flept on fhore, and you willjudge —
of the temperature of thefe regions, when I
tell you that, in this cool part of the moft
Windward Ifland, and in the month of
February, we fet open the windows of the
room, and threw afide all the bedding and
clothes, preferving to each perfon only a hard
mattrefs, and a fingle fheet. With this ar-
rangement we paffed the night in found re-
pofe, and rofe at fix in the morning, well
prepared for another marooning day. |
We rode Metered) brenkien to fee the
Barbadoes or Codrington College. On our way
we pafled an eftate called “Society,” and on
357 :
approaching the college from the high land of
that quarter we obtained a fine view of the
_ building, with the plain on which it ftands,
and the wide expanfe of the fea, {pread be-
fore it. Defcending from the hill we met
with the fineft avenue of mountain cabbage
trees that we had feen in the ifland.
The college was founded by Colonel
Codrington, and richly endowed, with the
generous and very laudable intention of
eftablifhing a great and ufeful feminary for
the education of the youth of Barbadoes;
the liberal founder appropriating the revenue
of two large eftates to the inftitution, in the
_ defire of affording an opportunity to the
Creole generations of the ifland, of acquiring
| learning, and fitting themfelves for the im-
portant duties of fociety, and of their indi-
vidual ftations, without incurring the ex~
pence of an European education. But the
benevolent intentions of the Colonel have not
been duly regarded. The profits intended
for this beft of purpofes have been fquan-
dered away, and the funds difgracefully ne-
gle&ted or abufed. The fuperb edifice, which
was planned, has not been finifhed, and even
AA 3
358
the part that was erected, has, from fhameful:
neglea, been brought into early decay. Only
one fide of the intended quadrangle has yet —
been built, and that, to the difgrace of thofe
concerned, has long been left to fall into
ruin,
The prefent manager, highly to his
honor, has done much towards recovering the
eftates, and directing the funds, arifing there-
from, into their proper channel. By his
care a very confiderable fum has been recently
accumulated, and the part of the building
which has been erected, is now undergoing
a thorough repair, in the hope of faving it
from utter and premature deftruction. |
The walls are built of ftone, and are of
uncommon ftrength. They withftood the
dreadful hurricane of 1780, and appear to be
full capable of a complete repair, but it muft
be at great labor, and a prodigious expence.
As we were viewing the large hall, and
the chapel, we received a meflage from the
mafter, the Rev. Mr. Thomas, requefting us
to take breakfaft with him: but our plan for
4
359
the day, and our engagements with Mr.
Hollingfworth did not allow us to accept the —
invitation. We however had an opportunity
of thanking him, by making him a vifit in the
houfe built for the principal of the college,
which we were forry to obferve, like the other
parts of the ftru€ture, had been left unheeded,
and was falling into comparatively youth-
ful decay. Mr. Thomas fhewed us a model
in wood, according to the original defign;
and, had the building been completed upon
this plan, Barbadoes might have boafted a
college, vying in grandeur, and elegance of
ftruGture, with the greateft ornaments of the
celebrated univerfities of the mother-country.
The model, like the building, feeling the
- deftrudtive effe& of the climate, and of fad
negle@t, was faft crumbling into a ftate, in
which it could only ferve to minifter duft
to the elements !
Twelve boys, only, are yet admitted on
the foundation, and thefe, inftead of occu
pying any part of the college building, are
accommodated in the houfe of the matter,
the parlour being converted into a kind of a
{cheol-room, for the purpofe. |
| AA 4
360
We returned to Mr. Hollingfworth’s by a
different road, from that we had taken in |
going, afcending fome high land near the
college, called “Coach-Hill.” This ride afford-
ed us an opportunity of feeing a numerous
gang of negroes grouped in the middle of a
field, taking their breakfaf, during the tem-
porary fufpenfion allowed them from labor.
They were feated upon the bare earth, and
expofed to the full ardor of the feorching
fun. |
On our arrival we found a handfome
breakfaft prepared for us, and neatly ferved in
a large cool roem, with all the tafte and fafh-
ion of the Weft Indies. While partaking of
it I feveral times detected my thoughts
wandering to the poor blacks in the field,
contemplating the fimplicity of their fare,
and che humble natural board on which it
was fpread. They had no water-glafies to
cool their fingers, nor had they, like us, a
youthful flave to fan the breeze with a fra-_
erant bough, and protect their naked ikins
Git the painful annoyance of infects.
301
The Colleton eftate is one of the largeft
in the ifland. It is, at prefent, the property
of a Mrs. Colleton, who refides in London.
The dire€tion and fole management of it is left
_ to Mr. Hollingfworth ; and Mrs, Colleton is
_ fortunate in giving her confidence to a perfon
of high honor and integrity, who does every
' juftice to the eftate, and the proprietor. At
' the Colleton plantation we had an opportunity
of witnefling the mode of claying or (as they
commonly term it) émproving fugar. Thisis
-avery fimple procefs by which the fugar is
~ much whitened, and increafed in value. Acoat-
ing of clay, foftened nearly toa liquid flate with
water, is fpread over the furface of the fugar,
as it ftands in the deep earthen pots into
' which it is received from the boiler, and the
fluid parts gradually draining away, the clay
becomes hardened into a dry cake at the top;
while the water pafles through the whole of
the fugar, and carries with it a confiderable
portion of the melafles, through an opening
at the bottom of the pot, leaving the fugar
greatly whitened, and improved. ‘The clay
having become dry and contracted into a hard
cake, is eafily removed from the furface. We
faw it lifted from feveral of the pots; and
362
the difference between the fugar in thefe and
in the pots which had not been fubjeéted to
the fame procefs was very ftriking. After
being thus improved the fugar fells at a price
nearly one third higher, than in its raw ftate:
other advantages are likewife faid to derive
to the planter from this partial mode of
refining the produce of his canes. Soon
after breakfaft we refumed our morning wan-
derings, leaving the Colleton eftate imprefled
with a {trong fenfe of the kind reception, and
the very warm hofpitality it had afforded us.
Upon taking leave, it was difcovered that our
party had decreafed from eight to feven. The
family and the houfe had fufficient attrac-.
tions to detain the inclinations of us all; but
the peculiar magnet which influenced the per--
fon, whole fociety we loft, was of an irrefift-
able nature,—the junior Mr. H. was the hap-
py fuitor of Mifs Hollingfworth, and, amidft
the crowd of the evening, her attentions had
neceffarily been too much divided for him to
have fecured the exclufive proportion duetoa
_ faithful and devoted admirer. ©
After leaving Mr. Hollingfworth’s,
“ Clarke’s Court,” and “Kendall” eftates, were
363
the two firft Plantations that arrefted our atten-
tion. The latter is under the direction of a
very fingular and eccentric character, whofe
great ambition is to a& differently from other
men; and who finds a fecret pleafure in
deviating from all eftablithed and common
rules. His mill is oddly trimmed, the fails
ftrangely cut, and all the works, by fome
deviation or other, made peculiar. Among
a multitude of other fingularities he has plant-
ed a patch of pigeon peas in the neighbour-
hood of'a field of canes, in order to allure
the borers from the fugar,—a piece of policy
very like fetting a difh of tough beef before
an alderman to feduce his appetite from a
haunch of venifon !
From Kendall’s we rode to “* Drax-Hall,”,
the largeft plantation of the ifland, and the
property of the Grofvenor family. ‘The
houfe. is a fpacious old manfion, quite pro-
portionate to the fize of the eftate, which we
obferved, from its great extent, had two mills,
and adouble fet of works for the preparation
of the fugar. This was alfo the cafe at the
large eftates of Colleton and Kendall,
364
No interruption,x—no chafm occurs in
the hofpitality of Barbadoes! It is univerfal
and literally, as juftly, entitles it to be ranked.
among the “ friendly ifles.” In all the li-_
berality of the country Mr. Chatterton of
Drax-Hall, invited us to pafs the day at the
good old manfion, kindly profering us every
friendly accommodation. But it was not
-confiftent with our plan to take up our quar- —
ters at fo early an hour; we were therefore
compelled to violate our inclinations, which —
would have detained us throughout the day ©
atthe Hall. After taking the refrefhment of |
fome wine and water, we purfued our ride,
and pafling by way of a wood, called after the
name of the plantation ‘* Drax-Hall wood,” ©
we proceeded to an eftate called “‘ Spendlove,”
which is under the care, and very excellent
management of Mr. John Waith, a gentle-
man in no degree lefs friendly, or hofpitable
thanany we had feen in the ifland, and although
very active, no lefs fat and good humoured.
than fome of our well fed priefts, who feaft.
upon the good things of England.
We find that fat perfons are by no
means uncommon in this ifland, notwith-
365
ftanding the great heat of climate, and the
exceffive wafte of fluids by perfpiration ; nor
can this be at all wonderful to thofe who have
witnefled their hearty devotion to the good
things of the table. Spendlove was our place
_of dinner, and, while this was preparing, we
begged permiffion to fee the negro-yard, and
to extend our vifit into fome of the huts,
being defirous to infpedct the habitations, and
“witnefs the mode of life of the flaves. It
was remarked to us that the negroes were
tenacious of their home, and difliked to have
their huts expofed to. the prying eye of
ftrangers: We accordingly treafured the in-
timation, promifing not to be too minute,
but to regulate our curiafity with all becom-
ing decorum, paying due regard to the feelings
and prejudices of the fable inhabitants: and I
fhould have been truly mortified not to have
had this opportunity of telling you, from the
_ teftimony both of my eyes and ears, the very
comfortable, and, I might fay, happy ftate
in which we found the flaves of Spendlove.
In your future good wifhes for the com-
fort of the poor Africans forget not to pray
that all mafters may poflefs hearts as kind,
and humane, as that which beats in the boform —
of “ Jack Waith,” this being the title by.
which that gentleman is beft known in the
ifland. ‘The kind indulgence of the mafter
is amply repaid in the attachment of his
flaves; and the history of Mr. Waith and
his gang, may ftand in everlafting re=
proach tothe felf-arrogating opinion which
maintains that negroes know not the divine
fentiment of gratitude, but are moft treache-.
rous toward the mafter who beft treats, and
moft indulges them. Were this the faa, as is
not unfrequently afferted, it would offer itfelf
in direGt oppofition to one great principle of
human nature, and would place the blacks
very far indeed below the whites, but, how-
ever much individual inftances might feem to
countenance the opinion, thefe, perhaps, do not’
occur more frequently among Africans, than’
among Europeans, and furely cannot be con-
fidered to arife more from any defe& of a great
and amiable principle of nature in them, than
we fhould be willing to admit that they do in
ourfelves. Such inftances are but the effect of
depravity in either, and proceed from a
perverfion, not from a genuine principle of
nature, and hence cannot in the one, more
367
than in the other, ferve to eftablith any general
- maxim.
By kind attentions, by occafional and
friendly indulgences towards his flaves, Mr.
Waith had fo meliorated their condition, fo
foftened to them the hardfhips of flavery,
and fo improved their comforts, as to attach
them to his perfon and his intereft by
the fecure ties of affeCtion and gratitude.
Tne loud clang of the whip was feldom
heard among them, and the fmartings of
‘its painful lafh were fcarcely dreaded ; for a
better principle than fear impelled them to
their duty. Their friendthip for their mafter
made his intereft their own; and their
gratitude, towards him, rendered his fafety
the object of their folicitude, and even of
their lives. Of this he had, in two great in-
ftances, known the moft unequivocal proof,—
one when the negroes of the eftates had form- |
ed a confpiracy to rife upon their mafters,—.
the other upon an alarm being given that the
land was attacked by the French! On both
thefe occafions the flaves of Spendlove had
voluntarily offered to lay down their lives in
defence of Mr. Waith and his houfe.
368
At the negro yards it is common for the
flaves to plant fruits and vegetables, and to
raife ftock. Some of them keep a pig, fome
a goat, fome Guinea fowls, ducks, chickens,
pigeons, or the like; and at one of the huts
of Spendlove, we faw a pig, a goat, a young
kid, fome pigeons, and fome chickens, all
the property of an individual flave.—This is
mere indulgence, but it gratifies and amufes
the negroes, and becomes, in various ways,
highly ufeful. The little garden, and their
flock, not only afford them occupation and
amufement for their leif{ure moments, but
create a degree of intereft in the fpot, and ex-
cite feelings of attachment toward the matter,
who both grants and protects the indulgence.
The negro-yard, viewed from a fhort diftance,
forms an object of highly interefting and
picturefque fcenery ;—it comprizes all the
little huts, intermixed with, and more or lefs
concealed by the variety of fhrubs and fruit
trees, which kindly lend their fhade ; likewife
the many fmall patches of garden ground
around them, and the different fpecies of
ftock, fome appearing in pens, fome. tied by
the leg, or the neck, and fome running at
large ; and if it be evening, you have alfo the
369
crowd of negroes, male and female, as they
chance to be {een, at reft, or moving in bufy
occupation, fome pafling from hut to hut,
fome. dancing to their favorite mufic, fome
fitting at the door with the pipe in their
mouths, and others fmoking their loved fagar
under the-broad leaf of the plantain: The
picture is alfo further enlivened by the
groups of little black children ;—fome run-
ning and {kipping about, fome feated, play-
ing before the doors, in Nature’s ebon drefs,
_ and fome, unable to walk, attempting little
pedeftrian excurfions upon their hands and
feet. Perhaps within fo {mall a fpace, few
{cenes could offer fo much to intereft a con-
templative mind ; or to aid the pencil of a
painter of the picturefque. |
Independent of their own provifions,
either raifed or purchafed, each negro has his
weekly allowance iflued to him, every Sun-
day, from the eftate ; and hence they are at
liberty to take the whole of their own private
ftock to. market, and to procure whatever ad-
ditional comforts they prefer with the money
it produces; and perhaps it will feem ftrange
to you when I tell you that the markets of
VOL, ts BR |
378
the ifland depend almoft wholly upon thig
mode of fupply. They are all held weekly,
and upon the Sunday; that being the day
when the negroes are free from labour, and
have leifure to attend.
Mr. Waith has learned the happy art of
poverning the flaves with kindnefs, and he
finds it a better fteward than the whip. With
great goodnefs of heart he indulges his own
humane feelings, and finds it better policy
than ufing ftripes. He is a man of focial
manners, and would certainly deceive Lavater
himfelf, if he poffeffed not all the generofity
and benevolence for which he has obtained
fuch univerfal credit ; for fo plainly is all this
written upon his brow, that thofe who run
may read it.—He is of a ruddy complexion,
and, with an uncommon degree of fatnefs, is
very aclive, and appears to have all the
firong health of an European. Never was
entertainment more bountiful, or given with
greater liberality, or. a more cordial wel+
come, than at the plantation of Spendlove,
Punch and mandram preceded the dinner ; at
table was an extenfive variety of good things;
and after the cloth was removed, the board ©
371
was {pread with fruits of various kinds, toge-
ther with claret, port, and madeira wines,
and Goava-punch.
The round of feafting having continued
for feveral hours, it was followed, like our
dinner at the Bay-Houfe, by new provoca-
tives ; and the appetite, having already con-
fumed more than it required, was invited to
take more than it ought, by the unexpected
appearance of fmoking {prats, hot lobfters,
and a large bow! of milk punch.
The cloth was again regularly fpread, at
a fide table, and thefe things placed by us, as
if we had juft arrived from a journey with
all the cravings of hunger; and to my afto-
| nifhment, I confefs, fome of the party left the
fruit and wine, and feating themfelves in due
form at the other table, exhibited a renewal
of appetite, as if the dinner they had juft taken
had been already digefted and forgotten.
Mr. Waith’s, father and brother came
from their different plantations to meet us at
Spendlove, and were of the party at din-
ner. The old gentleman is an uncommonly
| BE 2
372
handfome man, fixty years of age, with alt
the health and fpirits of a perfon of forty.
He is not fo fat as his fon, mazs trés enbon»
pomt, He is jocofe and lively, a facetious com-
panion, highly convivial, and, in the full
{pirit of the Weit Indies, a perfect bon vivant.
Fe entreated us, with much kindnefs and
urgent folicitation, to make a vilit to his eftate
before we leave Barbadoes, apologizing in his
own mirthful way, for not having it in his
power to offer us more than a “* plain farmer’s
dinner,—a pig, a duck, and a turkey cock.”
In order to reach Bridge-Fown in time
to go on board to fleep, we left Spendlove
earlier than our inclinations would have dic-
tated. On our way we called at the houfe of —
Mr. Ellcock, brother to an eminent phyfician
ef that name, whom we had met at Dr.
Hinde’s. We were led to the houfe through —
an avenue of the ftatelymountain cabbage trees, —
whichare fopeculiarly calculated to formagrand
and impoling approach to any gentleman’s
dwelling. Thefe were the fineft which had yet
occurred to our obfervation, not excepting thofe
we had feen at the college. Mr. Ellcock’s —
is the moft modern, and moft European-look=
\
373
inc abode we met with in the whole of our
tour, The houfe and little flower garden
before it refemble thofe of England, and near
to the door is a cool ayenue forming an
agreeable promenade, deeply fhaded with the
foliage of a very handfome tree called the
« Evergreen.”
We walked into the fmall garden before
the houfe, which is laid out a /’angloife, and
has much more correctly the appearance of an
Englifh garden, than the many very humble
Imitations, which Englifhmen are fo often in-
yited to fee in France, Germany, and other
parts of the, continent, under the title of
** Jardin Anglois.”
Mr, Elleock’s favorite purfuit is bota-
ny. Heis occupied in obtaining an extenfive
colle@ion of rare and curious plants, and of
the different fpecies of tropical trees, and
fruits. He is particularly curious in his or-
chard; but unfortunately he was irom home,
_and the key was nat to be found, hence we
loft the opportunity of feeing perhaps the
moft varied, and valuable aflemblage of fruit
trees inthe ifland. Nor could we even iteal
, BB 3
374
one look at the colletion, through any open- |
ing, for the gate was clofe as the door of a
convent, and the whole orchard was furround-
ed with a high hedge of the lignum vite, fo
thick and impenetrable as to refift even the
prying eye of curiofity. om
Both the orchard and garden were
originally planned, and have been wholly
planted under the immediate infpe€tion of Mr.
Ellcock, to whofe tafte and induftry every
credit is due for the improvements made,
and the very valuable collection already
brought together. He is a fcientific bota-
nift; and, from learning the attention he -de-
votes to his plants and trees, and to the vege-
table world in general, we could not but con-
template, in {trong fympathy, the fevere lofs
he muft have felt in the unhappy fate of the
learned naturalift of “ Joe’s River.” In a
{mall and remote ifland fuch alofs becomes, in
many points of view, irreparable, it being
“unlike Europe, where from fcience being more _
advanced and more generally diffuled, fo .
many may be found of congenial minds, that
the lofs of one of Flora’s favorite fons.
might not be equally irremediable. I have
375
not heard that it was fo, but reafon and fvm-
pathy would feem to imply it, and you, I
know, will feel with me, that from circum-
{tances of locality, and from fimilaritv of fenti-
ment and occupation, M. Ell-cock and Mr.
H—- muft have been more than brothers in
recard and efteem, and that, to either, the lofs of
‘the other mufthave been of multiplied feverity.
Although difappointed in this vifit, we
have ftill an eye to the collection of Mr.
Ellcock, and do not intend to let it efcape
without infpeétion ; for fhould it happen that
we may be called away, betore we have an
opportunity of returning to it ourfelves, we
have made known its fituation to a friend of
ours, whofe induftry and acutenefs in the
{cience of botany will not allow a twig or a
flower to pafs unnoticed. Our colleague, Dr.
Wright, is told where to find it, and as he
is of the Charibbee [fland ftaff, and may
remain longer here than ourfelves, or may
poflibly be ftationed in the ifland, it willbea .
great delight, and perhaps the highelt gratifi-
cation that could offer to him, to explore this
tropical vegetable depot. The Doctor isa
veteran in the field of Flora, and in him Mr.
BB 4
376
Ellcock may find a valuable fubftitute for the
late unhappy poffeflor of “ Joe’s River.”
Zealous and well verfed as our friend is
in the realms of botany, and particularly from
having already augmented his fame by his in-
duftrious refearches refpeQiing the botanical —
produdtions of Jamaica, to range amidft fuch
a colleftion of tropical plants, would form
the delight of his leifure, and, from his ac-
curate knowledge in the fcience, the whole
botanical worid might perhaps be benefited by
it. To Mr. Ellcock, I truft it is alfo a plea-
fure in ftore, for he could not but find pleafure
in being known to our friend, whofe reputa-
tion asa botanift, is only rivalled by his phil-
anthrophy, and his amiable character as a man.
Difappointed in our vifit at Mr. Ellcock’s
we rode on to Bridge-Town without further
delay, and arrived in time to go off to the
Lord Sheffield before the prohibited hour of
nine, after which no es are permitted ta
' Jeave the hore.
To bring into one point the fum of grati«
‘fication afforded by this delightful excurfion,
Ad
would be a work of difficulty. You will form -
fome idea of it from the loofe details I have
marked. It has offered us an abundant op-
portunity of feeing the whole face of the ifland;
of viewing many of the different plantations ;
of obferving the produce and mode of cultiva-
tion; of witneffing the manners and cuftoms
of the inhabitants ; and of noticing the labors
and mode of life of the flaves;—whom we
have feen in the fields,—in their huts,—in the
fugar works,—about the houfes,—at their mo=
ments of reft and retirement, and amidft all
their various occupations and modes of em-
ployment. —
378
LETTER XXVOL
Still no tidings of the commander in chief, or the convoy.
A trading fhip arrives from Glafgow. Anxiety difplayed
cuhen any veffel enters Carlifle Bay. Privateers captured.
A detachment of troops fent to Grenada. Uncertainty of
all expeditions by fea. Black corps formed at Barbadoes,
Negroes of the French colonies betray all the levity and
vivacity of the French charatter. Dry feafon at Barba-
does. Heat of the climate. Sugge tion that it might be.
politic to fend out the hofpitals, barracks, and other build
ings, previous to the failing of the treops. Flofpztals erected
at St. Annes hill. Troops in the tranfports unhealthy.
Moon-light view of acoco-nut grove, near Bridge-Town.
Carlifle Bay, Feb. 29,
Ir proves that we might have lengthened our
Marooning excurfion, without any interrup-
tion from the fear of being hurried away to
St. Domingo. © Scarcely any veffels arrived in
the bay during our abfence, and very few have
-gome in fince our return. Our folicitude,
concerning the commander in chief and the
convoy, is ftill undiminifhed. One thip left.
them in one latitude, another in another, one
)
oa
parted from the fleet in the bay of Bilcay,
- another off Portugal, a third off the coaft
of Africa, and others in different latitudes,
Some fuppofe the convoy to have put in-
to Lifbon, fome fay Gibraltar, and others
various other ports. Allis ftill enveloped in
a cloud of uncertainty ; nor are we without
our fufpicions that the fleet may yet be nearer
to you than it is to Barbadoes, and, indeed,
this would feem probable from the extraordi-
nary delay of the packets, not one having ar-
rived {ince we came into harbour. Amidftall
- our apprehenfions we ftill hope, and ftill, in
daily expectation, look for their arrival.
One veffelhas at length reached Barbadoes,
which failed fubfequent to ourfelves. Itisa
Gla{gow trader, and although from a remote
port, you will judge what multitudes thronged
on board, asfoon as fhe entered the harbour, to
afk fornews. She brings papers of January, and
we are much gratified to learn that the admiral
had written to England, fo late as the fourth
of that month, faying that he had, then, with
him one hundred and eleven fail; but we are
forry to find that a part of the convoy had been
again compelled to put back, and we read,
380
with trembling apprehenfion, that fifteen vef-
fels were known to have been difmafted, or
‘ otherwife difabled—all of which, it is to be
feared, may not have reached even a fafe port
athome. Later than this date, the papers con-
tain no news of the convoy : nor have we any
through any other channel.
At this very interefting period of fufpenfe,
if a ftrange vefiel enters the bay, the whole
harbour becomes a crowded and moving fcene, |
in confequence of almoft every fhip fending
off a boat to feek tidings of the fleet. You,
who can feel for our folicitude, will compafiio-
nate our difappointment, when we happen to
- find thatthe flranger is not dire& from England.
This frequently occurs, and we return load-
ed with chagrin. Of two fhips which have
been this day thronged with eager vifitors, ane
proved to be from Newfoundland with fith, |
and the other from the coaft of Africa with
- flaves—confequently neither of them knew
fo much of England or the convoy as ours
felves. !
News has juft reached Barbadoes that fome
of our frigates have captured feveral privas
381
teets off Trinidad. This is peculiarly impor
tant at the prefent moment, as multitudes of
our defencelefs tranfports are fcattered over
thefe feas, in fearch of which hofts of arm-
ed cruifers have been fitted out by the ene=
my. : :
I am forry to tell you that information of
an unpleaiant nature has reached us from Gre-
nada, in confequence of which it has been
deemed expedient to embark a body of troops
en board the Expedition armée en fiute, and
other {maller veflels, to fend to the relief of
that ifland, without waiting for the arrival of
the commander in chief,
Could it have been forefeen, that the re-
mainder of the convoy would have been de-
tained {o many weeks behind us, the troops
which have been accumulated at Barbadoes
might have been beneficially employed in re-
{toring tranquillity to our difordered iflands,
and, perhaps, have been ftill in time to have
joined in the great, and more combined ob-
je& of the expedition. But it is not given
_to humanity to forefee events, and the fad dif
afters of this formidable armament only tend
384
to prove the extreme uncertainty which muft
ever attend our expeditions. The plan may
be conéerted with wifdom ; all the neceflaries
amply provided; and the force, on failing,
fully adequate tothe intended purpofes : yet,
after all, the lamentable uncertainty of the
elements will often fruftrate the beft and
wifef{ arrangements. If an army be deftined
to march, by land, to any given fpot, it may
be calculated, with confiderable accuracy, in
what number, and at what period it fhall ar-
rive; and, with ftill greater certainty, any given
quantity of ftores and provifions may be-tran{-
ported with it: but no fuch accuracy can ~
be attained where the high-road is the fea,
and the tracklefs path to be traced by the
capricious and inconftant winds.
We have an encampment of negroes
formed near to Bridge-Town, upon a {pot call-
ed Conftitution-hill, They are a fine body
-of men, who have been enlifted from the re=
volted French iflands, or brought away on,
the evacuation of them by our troops. They —
_ are active and expert, and are training into a —
formidable corps to affift in our intended ex
peditions, About fixteen hundred of them —
a4
383
bear arms; befides whom there are twelvé
‘hundred to be employed as pioneers. They
have all the vivacity and levity of the French
character about them ; and it, occafionally, af-
fords us amufement to obferve the Barbadoes
negroes regard them with evident amazement,
gaping with wonder at their volatility and
alertnefs, John Bull differs not more widely
from a Parifian petit-maitre than many of the
- Barbadoes flaves from the fable fops of this
{prightly corps.
It is now the dry feafon of the year at
Barbadoes, and if you have imbibed the fame
idea of a tropical climate which I remember
to have once felt, you will learn, with furprife,
‘that very few days have pafled, fince our ar-
rival, without a refrefhing fhower of rain.
The heatis far more fupportable than we had
expected. The thermometer, at - noon, is
commonly about 80, and very feldom exceeds
82; we have not yet feen itabove 84.
It happens, fortunately, that fome of the
fhips, laden with the temporary hofpitals,
made in England, have arrived in Carlifle Bay,
and, likewile, a few of the men belonging to
384
thecorps of artiftcers; who, together with fome
creole and negro carpenters, are actively em~
ployed in fitting and putting up thefe frames
with all poflible expedition: but much of hurry
and difficulty might have been avoided had the
hofpitals, the barracks, and other buildings
been fent out in time to have been ereCed be-
fore any of the troops, or any divifion of the
moving part of the expedition arrived.
The confufion that muft neceffarily arife
from the arrival of the foldiers, of the build-
ings requiring to be erected, and of all the va-
rious departments, at the fame moment, mutt
be felf-evident; and it will readily appear,
from the hurried and numerous claims each.
department will have upon the artificers, that _
many of the requifites attaching to the hofpi-
tals may not be completed, before the more
preffing cccafion for them has ceafed, on ac-
count of the removal of the troops to diftant
flations. Prefent experience may convey an
ufeful leffon.
From the great exertions now making we
hope very foon to have hofpital room at St.
Anne’s Hill for, atleaft, a thoufand fick, and 1»
385
am forty to remark, from the unhealthy ftate
in which fome of the tranfports have alrea-
dy arrived, that it feems likely we may have
occafion for it all ; but we have the further ac-
commodation of hofpital fhips, fhould they be
required, and have, therefore, the profped of
feeing all the fick comfortably placed, and
amply provided with fuch neceflaries as their
unfortunate ftaie may demand. This, to a
medical officer, is a circumftance of no trivial
import. To the fervice it is likewife effential :
but, fpeaking as an individual, I know of
few things that could be fo truly diftrefling to
a man of feeling and humanity, as to behold a
crowd of brave and fuffering foldiers lying
- deftitute of the comforts and accommodations
required in ficknefs; and you will believe |
that I have very fincere gratification in finding
that I am not likely to be expofed to this
‘painful neceffity.
In a moon-light walk from St. Anne’s
hill to Bridge-Town, after our vifit at the
hofpital, our attention was lately very power=
fully arrefted by the ftriking appearance of
a gently waving grove of coco nut trees, at the
fide of the road. From the brightnefs of the
VOL, I. cc
386
moon, the peculiar form of the trees, and the
dead ftillnefs of the night, we were fuddenly.
ftruck with the grandeur and folemnity of the
{cene ; ;nor do I know that my eye was ever
attracted to one fo divinely foft and fepulchral,
On beholding it, I was fixed in penfive con-
templation. The trees grew nigh, one to ano-
ther, and the naked trunks formed fo many
fiately pillars, fupporting their palmated fum-
mits, which, firetching to meet each other,
afflumed the femblance of extenfive aifles
of Gothic arches. -The whifpering breeze
gently waved the leaves in foothing undu-
lation, while the deep and dark-fhading fo-
liage {hut out the filver moon-beams, leav-
ing only an occafional folitary ray, to fteal
in here and there, at partial openings, to in-'
creafe the intereft and relieve the plaintive.
gloom. A contemplative mind could not fail
to be enamoured with the foft melancholy of
the fcene. It produceda kind of folemn, and
tender enchantment ; the effect of which was
highly increafed from the broad fea appearing
below the grove, whofe waters, in all, the full-
nefs of night, bearing the trembling beams of
the moon upon their furface, moved in gen-
tle murmurs to the fhore, and broke in whil-
it
ae
357
pers, {carcely to be heard, upon the fands-
Never was fpot more calculated to fill the
mind with fublime and tender impreffions !
It feemed the fit abode of filence, and of fleep
—a facred fhade where the child of forrow |
might {weetly indulge his grief, liften to the
fympathetic ruftlings that whifpered to his
fighs, and pour forth, in refleGtion and peni-
tence, the genuine effufions of the heart :
<¢ What folemn folitude around !
Here Nature’s true fublime is found :
Hence thought fhould travel to the fky.”
It was a penfive and fequeftered retirement,
where a forrowing and heart-rended lover
might indulge a full feat of foul, in offering
his devotions at the tomb of a loft miftrefs:
for, amidft fuch fcenes, the mind fprings from
its manfion of clay, to range in plaintive co-
gitation and delight: it feafts in rapturous
melancholy, and, dwelling in folemn thought,
is elevated above itfelf. Filled with fublime |
contemplation, the fpirit is unmindful of its
earthly chains, and the foul, abforbed in great-
nefs, foars to its peaceful and heavenly manfion.
above. -
C C2
LETTER XXIX,
Author claims the freedom of * noting” upon all fubjects-
Polite and learned pra€litioners in medicine at Barbadoes.
The contrary. Anecdote of a Barbadoes medicafter. Re-
marks upon the fatal confeguences of allowing every pretender
to range at large in the medical profeffion. Embpirics and
patents. New Tavern at Bridge-Town. Mode of fepara
ting the feeds from cotton. Barbadoes method of carrying
children. Suggeftion whether it may not be preferable to the
Englifh method. A fpecimen of the bitter hardjbips of
flavery. 7
-Barbadoes, March.
I being ftipulated that all fubjeéts of re-
mark are to find place in my Notes, you will
not reproach me with the diffentient term
“ Parith bufinefs,” if an _occafional fentence
fhould chance to fteal in upon the topic of
medicine. Indeed you have defired it fhould
be fo, and this, at once, prevents the neceffity
of apology. |
You will have collected, from what I have
faid before, that there are Gentlemen in’ the
389
- medical profeffion in Barbadoes, who are,
equally, an honor to their profeffion, and an
ornament to fociety, and I may here repeat.
that many fuch are to be met with in the
ifland. But it is an unhappy truth that there
are others who are only pre-eminent in igno- |
rance, for, alas ! practitioners in medicine may
be found in this ifland, who, in learning and
manners, are not far removed above the flaves.
They are more illiterate than you can believe,
and the very negro doétors of the eftates too
juftly vie with them in medical knowledge.
It has happened to us to fee, among them,
men, who inftead of having the care of the
health and lives of their fellow-fubjeGs, ought
not to be entrufted to compound a pill, or a
bolus. Atyro, advanced only a year or two
jn his apprenticefhip, in England, is far bet-
ter inflructed in his profeffion, than fome of
the foi-difans and practifing projficients of
_ Barbadoes. Totally unprepared with a claf-
fical education, and, indeed, wholly devoid
of the very rudiments of literature, they
indolently wafte a few years, in the houfe,
or idly looking out at the fhop-window of
fome uneducated apothecary of the ifland, and
thén in all the bold confidence of ignorance, —
Cc 3
. 390
they commence DoGors, feeling themfelvesfully —
qualified, without profeffional reading, without
viliting the fchools of Europe, without expe-
rience, and I might fay; without thought, or
judgment, to undertake the cure of all the
direful maladies which affliGt the human frame;
—in fhort, without one neceflary qualification
do thefe creole pretenders feel themfelves com-—
petent to exercile all the various branches of
the healing art.
Cleghorn, Mafter, and myfelf called, late-
ly, at the fhop of one of the practitioners of
this clafs, to purchafe fome Peruvian bark,
when we found our brother doétor difpofed to
be facetious and communicative ; and prone
to talk with equal confidence and loquacity.
His bark, he affured us, was “* of the beft,” for.
he had plenty. of the “¢ Cort. Peruv. optimum,
and had.“ advertifed it for fale,” although he
“ never ufed it for his patients ;’— adding to
this very liberal and laudable avowal “ I have
alfo the Cort. Peruv. common, but I never
write now for the Cort. Peruv. /econd: for-
merly I did, and the druggifts cheated me,
but I-have found them out, and now make the
Cort. Peruv. fecond myfelf. I mix a little of _
ad
i
the Cort. Peruv. optimum, with the Cort. Peruv.
common, and fo make Cort. Peruv. fecond,* and
in this way gain the money myfelf which,
before, I foolifhly paid to the druggilts in | Eng-
land.”
This man who, independent of a total want
of profeffional knowledge, avowedly, and from
the moft fordid motives, never adminiftered
to his patients.a fingle grain of that bark,
which (even in proper cafes for its exhibition)
was moft likely to prove beneficial,—¢his man
is a bufy practitioner in Bridge-Town, and is’
efteemed the great Hippocrates, the family
doétor, and the confidential, and prime guar-
dian of health to many of the inhabitants of
Barbadoes ! 1
In all climates, a found judgmert, and an
acutenefs of difcrimination, together with a
correct knowledge of the human frame, are
neceflary to the fuccefsful treatment of dif-
eafes : but in the Weft Indies, where the attack
* It were much to be withed, that the vendors of drugs ,
had not difcovered a {till worfe means of adulterating this
mott valuable medicine,
Cc 4
392
is frequently fudden, and the progrefs deftruc-
tively rapid, if the malady be negleéted or
badly treated, in its incipient ftage, medicine
becomes inefficient, and, too often, the difeafe
cannot be fubdued by all the art of the wifeft
Phyfician.— How lamentable, then, is it that
fuch ignorant medicafters as our ‘* Cort Peruv.
optimum” fhould be entrufted, and particu-
larly in a tropical region, with the health and
lives of multitudes of their fellow-beings. a8
When we reflect that the riches and
profperity of a country conneét, moft inti-
mately, with its population, and» ‘that. the
lives of men are of the higheft importance to
the ftate, it becomes matter of furprife and
aftonifhment, that, even in the remotett colony,
fuch pretenders fhould be permitted t to difgrace
the healing art. Ifthat wife principle “ falus
populi fuprema lex,” be correét, and I fufpeét it
cannot be difputed, the health of the people
muft be a fubject of prime confideration in the
eye of every government ;—how then are we
to account for the apathy which permits
- fuch dangerous doors to wield the deftrudtive
lance, or, how fhall we explain the mifcalcu- —
Jating policy which not only tolerates a tre- _
393
_ nendous hoft of empirics, but fuffers them to
overrun every part of the ftate, under the all-
creating fanétion of a patent, or allows them,
on the bare privilege of bold aflurance, to com-
mit depredations upon the health, the purfes,
and the lives of His Majefty’s fubjects?
You will recollect the name of “ Betfy
Lemon” the refpectable mulatto whom I for- _
merly mentioned to you as the leading fupport
of the Bar at Mary Bella Green’s, and you
will be pleafed to learn that fhe is releafed from
the toils of flavery, and placed in a more in-
dependent fituation, where fhe may become
eftablifhed as an ufeful and refpetable member
of the community. She has opened a new
tavern at Bridge-Town, where we have made
a party of encouragement, to take a dinner,
and drink to the fuccefs of the hoftefs; and,
from the accommodations we met with, I may
add, that, fhould any more of your friends fol-
low us to Barbadoes, you may affure them of
attention and good treatment at the houfe of
Betfy Lemon.
In one of our late walks, near Bridge-
Town, we met with two fmall windmills,
~
394
erected for the purpofe of clearing the cotton
from its feeds ; and, as they happened to be
in motion we availed ourfelves of the opportu-
nity of waiting a fhort time, to witnefs the pro-
cefs. The cotton, when pulled from the fou, .,
envelopes the feeds, forming the matrix in
which they grow and are embedded ; andit 1s,
feparated from them by being caufed to pais
through the bite of two {mall metallic rollers,
placed horizontally, one over the other, and
turned by the ation of the mill. Thcfe pail-
ing round, near to each other, are fed with the
cotton, which they take in, without receiving
the feeds, leaving them to fall to the ground,
or into a bafket below, while the cotton, drawn
between the rollers, pafles through and is
ejected into a box on the oppofite fide. The
procefs is fo entirely fimple that it might be
performed equally well by a fmaller inftru-
ment worked with the hand, or the foot, and
which we are told is the method practifed in ©
many parts of the Weft Indies.
Among the novelties which meet the eye
of an European upon his arrival at Barbadoes,
or probably in any of the Weft India iflands,
is the practice of carrying the children acrofs
395
the hip, inftead of feating them upon the arm,
_ The lower clafs of white women, in Barbadoes,
have adoped this cuftom, from the example
of the negroes, among whom it feems to be
the univerfal mode of nurfing ; and, perhaps,
it would admit of argument, whether this
method be not preferable to the European cuf-
tom of carrying them upon the arm. Seated
upon the hip, the infant foon learns to cling,
‘and in a great meafure to fupport itfelf; but,
placed upon the arm, it muft always remain a
helplefs or dead weight upon the mother, being
without the power of aflifting itfelf, or reliev-
ing its pofition. Further, itis fo conveniently
placed when upon the hip, that the mother
can fupport it with much greater facility, for
by only putting the arm behind it, the child
can lie back, or reft and change its pofture in
various ways: thus the weight becomes lefs fa-
‘tiguing tothe mother, and perhaps leis inju-
rious to the infant ; for, at this tender age,
the long bones of the thigh, not being firmly
offified, are liable to yield, and a degree of de-,
tormity may be induced, from their being made
to bear the whole weight of the body, at long
and frequent periods, upon fo narrow a feat
as the arm. |
/
396
Trivial as this fubject might appear to ©
fome, it is worthy the ferious confideration of
Britifh mothers, and nurfes. A deformed ne-
gro is avery rare object,and this may probably
be attributed, in great meafure, to the manner
of nurfingthem in their infancy; for, befides the
better mode of carrying them, they have the
further advantage of being allowed to crawl
about upon their hands and feet, in perfec
freedom, unreftrained by ligatures, or tee
garments.
Although I have obferved the mode of
carrying children upon the hip to be the com-
mon method of nurfing among the flaves, yet,
when they have to carry them to a great dif-
tance, they neither place them upon the hip,
nor the arm, but upon the back; and I have,
frequently, been furprized to obferve by what
~ flight fupport they fecufe them in this fitua-
tion. A mere pocket handkerchief, tied care-
lefsly round the mother, often forms all their
feat, and all their fafety !
A few eveningsago I had the affli€ling op-
portunity of witneffinga {cene of cruelty, which
{ftrongly exemplified the abjeét, and wretched-
\
397
ly humiliating condition to which human be-
ings are fubjected in a life of flavery. I hap-
pened to be waiting upon the quay for the
Lord Sheffield’s boat, in order to return on
board, when two men, apparently white creo-
les, came up, and feized a negro, who was
ftanding near me, accufing him of having run
away from his mafter. The poor black af-
fured them that he had no mafter,—that he
belonged to Mrs. , that he was well
known in the town,—and that they muft, cer-
tainly, have miftaken his perfon; and, upon
thefe grounds, urged the impropriety of their
taking him to prifon. But, regardlefs of his
~ remonftrances, and of their own error, they
tied him with a heavy cord, faftened his hands,
and forced him towards the place of confine-
ment! Curiofity led me to follow them. The
‘poor man ftili pleaded his innocence, and the
miftake they had committed, begging and pray-
ing to be allowed to referthem to his Mil-
trefs, or to another family in the town, to iden-
tify his perfon. Heedlefs of his proteftations
and entreaties they ftill dragged him on, and
from his only exprefling a reluCtance at being
thus, unjuftly, hurried to a prifon, one of thefe
hardened wretches ftruck him a violent blow
398
on the head, with a large ftick, calling out to
the other, in broad Barbadoes accent,
** Daa-am him, cut him down.”
A little before they reached the prifon
they had to pafs a door-way where there
happened to be a ftrong light, by means of
which one of thefe cruel inftruments of the
law of force inftantly recognifed the poor iil-
treated flave, and finding that they were actu-
ally guilty of the miltake which the negro
had ftated, he cailed out to his favage comrade,
who had ftruck the helplefs black upon the
head, “© Daa-am him, I know the fellow, we
muft let him go,” upon which, they both,
with horrid and dreadful imprecations, ordered
him to ftand, wethout firring ,while they fhould
untie him; and, upon his only moving his
arm’to expedite the loofening of the cord,
they {wore, that ifhe dared “to ftir, or look
favage,’ they would “ cut him down,” or put
him, ‘‘ direétly into prifon.” Such was the
compenfation dealt him for the unjuft and
cruel treatment he had already received. The
wretches not only dragged the poor unoffend-
ing flave to a prifon, in defiance of his folemn-
affurances of their having miftaken his perfon,
9
399 ;
and without allowing him an appeal to any one
who knew him, but, becaufe he ventured to
fay they were committing an error, had the
inhumanity to ftrike him with a force fufh-
cient to have fractured his fkull, and to threat-
en him with the further feverity of death, or
a dungeon, fhould he dare to exprefs only a look
of difpleafure.
What muft have been the feelings of this
injured man? who, after being abufed and
mal-treated, was further putin fear of his life,
fhould he only permit nature to aflume her
feat on his brow,—fhould the cruelty, pain,
and injuftice he had fuffered, only caufe a mark
of difapprobation to appear upon his counte-
nance! But Nature, however profcribed, was
notto bereftrained by fuchcommand! While the
power of memory remains to me I can never—
never forget the indignant, but hopelefs ex-
preflion of injury which overfpread the features
of this poor flave, as he retired !—He felt ag-
erieved, and....... .-..wasconfcious that he
had no remedy,—no appeal !
4.00
LETTER XXX,”
Author fends his friend a lift of the fips of the convoy which
had reached Barbadoes. Aveffel from Liverpool arrives
in Carlifle Bay. The body of the feet fiill wandering up-
onthe ocean. Packet flill delayed. Cork divifion found te
be at Cove long after it was reported at fea. Probability of
the author and his comrades being employed, in confequence
of the increafing number of fick. Carlifle- Bay difiurbed by
Pre/s-ganys. Confufion created by the failors of one of
the tranfports refifting them. The Lord Sheffield viftted
by two gangs in one night. |
Barbadoes March g-
IT occurs to me that, amidft all the uncertain-
ties of our unfortunate fleet, it may be pleafant
to you and others of our friends to know
which of the fhips have made good the -paf-
fage,I, therefore, fend you the annexed lift of
upwards of fixty, which are now fafe at anchor
in Carlifle Bay.
A veffel from Liverpool is come into
harbour, which failed on the gth of January, —
/
401
but we are fill without any late news of the
fleet, which failed on the 9th of December; and,
fingular to tell, the Liverpool fhip, now arriv-
ed, made the whole paflage without happen-
ing to fall in with any one of the convoy.
We learn that, previous to her failing from
port, the Admiral had again written to Eng-
land, mentioning that ninety fail full re-
mained with him, at the date of his let-
ter; but that, from the repeated gales they
had met with, he feared the others had
been obliged to put back difabled. It would
feem, from this, that he has no idea of fo con-_
fiderable a number having reached Barbadoes.
We, who are here, obferving on the other }
hand that very heavy and bad-failing veffels
have made their paflage, are furprized what
can fo long have detained the remainder of the
convoy; and what can be the caufe why we
are fo long without any dire& and accurate
intelligence of its fituation. It is now thir-
teen weeks fince the fleet left England, and we
know about as much concerning the great body
of it, at this moment, as if it were failing in the
moon. |
VOL, I. D D
402
Weare fadly anxious for the arrival of a
packet, and of newfpapers, neither the fhip
from Glafgow, nor that from Liverpool having
brought more than one or two papers of the few
days preceding their departure. We look for
them in feries, and expect quite a feaft of de-
light from the pernfal. Debarred from the
news of our own country, and the old world,
we have occafionally been much gratified by
reading the American paperys, brought by
veflels which have arrived with ftores and pro-
vifions from the United States. ?
We, who are deftined to proceed to St.
Domingo, have new difappointment in finding
that the Cork divifion, intended for that ifland,
had not failed ata date many weeks fubfequent
to the time it had been reported at fea; and
hence we feel it probable that we may even
yet be long delayed: nor does it feem un-
likely, that, before we depart, we may be cal-
led on duty at Barbadoes, in confequence» of
the increafing number of fick, and the non-ar- :
rival of the medical officers of the Charibbee-
Ifland, or what, with flrange incorre@tnefs, has
been called the Leeward-Ifland ftaft.
403
You will, perhaps, be furprifed to know
that the tranfports in Carlifle bay have been
feveral times interrupted, and the whole har-
bour difturbed, and brought into a ftate of con-
fufion, by the vifitings of different prefs-gangs,
in the exercife of that neceflary cuftom, fo re-
pugnant to the feelings, and the freedom of
Englifhmen.
In sone inftance an alarming fcene took
place in confequence of the failors of one of
the fhips refifting this arbitrary and uncon-
ftitutional method of obtaining their fer-
vices. They oppofed the boarding, and beat
off the agent, and two boats with the prefs-
gang. This refiftance was foon followed by
the appearance of a party of foldiers, with fire-
locks and fixed bayonets, who had been call-
ed upon to aid the prefs-gang, and to force the
failors to f{ubmiffion. Upon feeing the troops
approach, thus formidably armed, the failors
jumped into the fhip’s boat, and made the beft
of their way towards the fhore. ‘The prefs-
gang and two or three boats, filled with armed
foldiers, purfued them. A general fenfation of
alarm overf{pread the harbour, and it was fear-
ed that much blood would be fhed. Every
. BD D 2 ) :
4.04
vellel was thronged with {peCators, an univer
fal impulfe was excited, and feelings of anxiety
feemed to pofiefs every mind. The failors ma-
noeuvred beftin the race. They gained head-
way at every pull of their oars, and made the
fhore at a point beyond the reach of the foldiers
and their mufquets. Several fhots were fired at
them in vain; and upon their landing,a loud and
general fhout infantly {pread around; which
feemed to be involuntary, but was ftrongly ex-
prefliveof the with of the multitude that the fail-
ors might efcape. Theironly hope was in flight,
_ and fome of them had the good fortune to elude
the activity and vigilance of their purfuers ; but
the foldiers proved to be more fuccefsful
in the chafe, on fhore, than they had been
in the boats, for a party of the failors was _
brought back a fhort time after, under a {trong
euard, and compelled to fubmit to this law of
force.
It has been our fortune on board the
Lord Sheffield to be difturbed by two different
parties of the prefs-gang in the courfe of the
fame night: one of which came alongfide at
_midnight,—the other at two o'clock in the
morning, From ftealing upon us unexpected-
*/
405
ly, andin the dark, you will fuppofe that
much hurry and confufion was created. Being
wakened by the noife and running of people
over my head, I put on my robe de chambre,
and went up to learn the caufe, when, finding
it to be the prefs-gang, I felt a {trong difpo-
fition to obferve their condu@ and manner of
proceeding, and therefore remained upon deck,
during the whole time they continued on
board.
A Lieutenant of the navy was flalking
up and down witha huge drawn fabre in his
hand, calling out, with boatfwain’s iungs, for
the fteward to bring upa light. His men were
running about every part ofthe fhip armed
with cutlaffes, piftols, hangers, and various
other weapons, and inftruments of death.
Such of the failors of the fhip whom they
found upon deck, were inftantly tumbled in- —
to a boat at the fide, filled with armed men.
‘The others fecreted themfelves in holes and -
corners, while the old fteward with feeming
hafte, but with fox-like cunning, delayed the
light. Perhaps you will fay it wasa little fe-
vere to demand a light, at all, from the fhip,
in order to rob her of her own men ; but the
| ‘PD3
406
whole proceeding was alike arbitrary and de-
{potic, and this only confiftent with the other
parts of it. ‘They had come in darknefs, and
with muffled oars, that they might take the vef-
fel by furprife, and ‘were unable to profecute
their fearch, into the remote and concealed
parts of the fhip, without the aid of light.
_ The fteward, fomewhat endangered from
the ire he had provoked by his well-contrived
delay, at length appeared with the lantern ;
and a general fearch was immediately made be-
low. Thecabins,—the cable-tier,—the pan-
tries,—the lockers—the very pig-fty,—every
hole and corner they could think of were hunt-
ed out, and they feemed refolved that not a fpot
fhould be omitted. Yet, notwithftanding all
their vigilance, feveral of the failors contrived
to elude the fearch. One, who had not time
to efcape to a place of more probable fecuri-
ty, remained quietly in his hammock, and,
when they came to examine it, affected to a-
wake uttering aloud groan, ftrongly expreflive
of pain and fuffering. Hearing this the prefs-
gang afked who it was, and if a failor, The
mate, who was watching them with a vigil
ance not inferior to their own, immediately res
407
plied that it was a fick man, who had been
long confined to his birth. His promptitude.
was fuccefsful : fick men they did not want ;
and the failor was left undifturbed—his free~
dom the fruit of his well-timed ftratagem, and
of. the expertnefs ofthe mate in promoting it.
The fecond party came more openly, and
without obferving the fame fillnefs of ap-
proach, confequently all the failors who were
likely to fuit them, were fecreted before they
could reach the deck; and from the mate re-
celving them frankly, and afluring them that
they were too late in their vifit, in confe-
quence of their comrades having but juft pre-
ceded them, and taken away the greater part
ofthe fhip’s company, they did not fubje& the
veffel to fo minute and prying a fearch, but,
after looking generally round the fhip, went
quietly away without a man. |
408
LETT ER, XK
Senate houfe, and general affembly of Barbadoes. Punch and
Sangaree a pleafant part of the debate. Altercation in the
court of Chancery. Interefting party dine with the mefe
of the Lord Sheffield. Hazardous efcape of two Englifh-
men from confinement. Honorable conduct of . Victor.
Hugue’s fecretary. Remarks on bribery and corruption—
on patriotifm. Self-love, and the love of fame Jfironger.
incentives to aélion than love of country. |
/
Barbadoes, March 15.
I NOW take up my pen, to you after ma-
king a vifitto the fenate houfe, and being
prefent at a fitting of the general aflembly
of the ifland. The proceedings were con-
duéted according to the routine of our Houfe
of Commons, which the aflembly regards as
its model. ‘The reprefentatives, like ours, are
returned from the provinces, two, not, in-
deed, from each county, but from each parith :
and, there being eleven parifhes in the ifland,
the affembly, confequently, confifts of twenty-
two members. : |
As in our houfe, fo in theirs, the perfon
who ptefides is denominated—‘ the fpeaker”
409
—the hearer had perhaps been more cor-
rect, as he happens to be the only perfon
who is precluded from fpeaking in the debate,
and is appointed, for the exprefs purpofe of
hearing all others, who, through him, addrefs
their arguments to the houfe. _
Among the members we recognized fe-
veral of the gentlemen whom we had. feen
in our marooning excurfion into the country,
It did not happen to be a fitting of great
intereft to firangers, there being but little
before the houfe for difcuffion, and, confe~
quently, few debates. Reading and paffing |
a militia a@, and fome other bills, confti-
tuted nearly the whole bufinefs of the meet-
ing. One part of the proceedings, however,
we thought to be ftridtly in the -- - - order of
the day. It was exceflively warm, and we —
were fadly parching with thirft, when two per-
fons fuddenly appeared with a large bowl, and
_atwo quart glafs filled with punch and fanga-
ree. Thefe were prefented to ‘ Mr. Speaker’
who, after dipping deep into the bowl, pafled
it among the members: nor was the audience
forgotten, for we were moft gratefully taught
that the hofpitality, fo univerfal in the ifland,
_ liyes eyen inthe fenate, The glafs was handed
4.10
up to us, and we found that it was cor-
reQtly im order for ftrangers to join in this
part of the debate. It came at a moment pe-
culiarly opportune, and we drank deeply and
cordially to our, friends, and the houfe of
aflembly.
The court of Chancery, with the go-
vernor as prefident, was fitting in a chamber
above, and, fuddenly, a loud clamour, indica-
ting difeord and confufion, was heard from
that quarter; we, therefore, left the houfe
of aflembly and afcended to the upper houfe,
in the defire of afcertaining what could poffibly
have caufed fuch turbulent proceedings ; when
we found this auguft affembly totally ab-
forbed in a quarrel between two of its members, |
who had interrupted the bufinefs of the fitting,
and diverted the attention of the houfe exclu-
fively to their perfonal difpute. Each remained
obftinately inflexible, with regard to the re-
quired acknowledgment, and neither could
be brought to any terms of conceffion ; hence, |
after a long interruption, it proved that the ©
houfe had only to leave it to be fettled as a
perfonal quarrel, according to the feelings of
the parties. Perhaps it had been more con-
fiftent had the court, from the firft, mains
A1T
tained its own dignity, and not fuffered its
proceedings to have yielded to a perfonal al-
tercation within its own walls, which, there,
_ it might have prevented, but which between
the individuals it had not the power to con-
trol. ‘There appeared no profped of a recon-
ciliation between the parties, nor of the har- |
mony of the court being fufficiently re-efta-
blifhed for.the bufinefs of the meeting to be re-
fumed; we therefore left them, in order to
purfue our further engagements.
You wiil be pleafed to know that we
have, lately, had a very interefting party to
dine with us on board the Lord Sheffield ;
among whom were three gentlemen who had
recently returned from imprifonment—one
from France, the others from Guadaloupe.
The narrative of their confinement and treat-
ment, together with fome anecdotes of perfons
whom they had about them, afforded us much
amufement, and gave to their details a high
degree of intereft.
One of the gentlemen, who had been ta-
ken to Guadaloupe, was confined on board a
4.12
prifon fhip, with feveral others of our coun- |
trymen, where, being treated with great ri-
gour, and fed with a very feanty allowance of ~
bad food, he entered into a confidential agree-~
ment, with one of his fellow-prifoners, to con-
cert fome means of efcape; and, one day,
feeing a boat, convenient for their purpofe, |
come to the fhip, they ftepped over the
fide of the veffel, and defcending fuddenly
into it, as it lay alongfide, immediately threw
. overboard three of the five negroes, who
were in it, and compelled the other two to take
up their oars, and affiftin rowing them away.
The fuccefs of this perilous enterprife
was equal to the boldnefs with which it was
undertaken. .Thefentinels fired at them in
vain: being once clear of the fhip they
pulled the oars with vigour, and, encouraging
the blacks to their aid, were foon out of reach.
Neither boats, nor bullets were able to over-
take them: they were quickly at fea, in their
open fkiff, and, gladly, entrufted themfelves
to the mercy of the elements. The weather
favored them, and they foon made a port:
of fafety in a Britifh ifland.
453
The manner in which the other gentie-
man who had been confined in Guadaloupe
obtained his releafe was alfo attended with
peculiar, and ftrongly marked circumftances.
Having an opportunity of {peaking with the
fecretary of Victor Hugues, he reprefented
to him in ftrong colours the very ferious per-
fonal injury his confinement might bring
upon him, and urged the abfolute impoffibility
of his releafe being injurious to any indivi-
dual of the French nation, fupporting his
appeal with the offer of a fum nearly equal
to 1200l. fterling, to be paid ax citoyen _fecre-
taire, provided he would contribute his aid
in obtaining him and two of his friends per-
miffion to leave the ifland. The fecretary
rejected the offer with difdain, expreffing
both anger and aftonifhment that he fhould
dare to imagine that he was capabable of
being feduced by a bribe; adding that “ for
merly Frenchmen were venial and might be
bought ; but now, citoyen, we are republicans!
and a good republican requires not a bribe
to encourage him to the execution of his duty,’
nor is capable of being, thereby, impelled
to commit a breach of it.’ He, never-
thelefs, liftened with attention to the pecu=
414
liar feverity of the cafe, and having heard
the particulars, appeared to feel a degree of in-
tereft regarding the hardfhips that were repre-
fented. Upon leaving the gentleman he faid
he would try to intercede in his behalf; and
intimated a hope that he might be able in the
courfe of a week to communicate fome report
to him. A few days only had elapfed when the
fecretary returned, bringing with him the pri-
foner’s releafe, which he prefented to him,
with felicitations, expreffing himfelf hap-
py in being the means of his regaining
his liberty, and, peremptorily, refufing to ac-
cept, even the flighteft compliment for the
fervice he had rendered him. ,
Would all men a& thus, my friend, of
how little confequence were it whether they
were denominated republicans, ariftocrats, or
royalifts! What the form of government, or
who fhould rule the land, could be of little
confequence, were honor and virtue made
the rulers of men’s ations. Speaking from
the warm feelings of the heart a very-elegant
writer has faid, “I cannot be more con-
vinced of the truth of any demonftration in
Fuclid than Iam that that fy{tem of politics
415
muft be beft by which thofe I love are made
happy”—but, perhaps, it might be faid, with
{till greater correCtnefs, that that /yfiem of
government muft be beft, where virtue, among the
people, moft prevails.
It is idle to declaim againft a government,
while individuals—while even ¢thofe who
complain have not virtue enough to with-
ftand the feducing lures of corruption! Let
the people be virtuous, and the government
will never be corrupt. Were men to refift
bribery, and to expofe their feducers to pub-
lic reproach, few attempts would be made
upon their independence. But alas! even thofe
who are loudeft in railing againft corruption,
_ but too commonly, when the magic wand ap-
proaches ¢hemfelves evince that it was not
virtue raifed their voices! Too often the
difordered appetite, which calls aloud for the
high condiments of privation and patriotifm,
feelsno naufeafrom a change of diet, but finds
all its acrid gnawings {peedily appeafed by a
well-drefled dith of -- -- - loaves and jifhes !
~
Perhaps it may be doubted whether a
true patriot, in the full extent of the term,
ever exifted, that is, aman who could feel him=
felf fo devoutly and abftractedly a patriot as,
wholly, to forego every perfonal confideration,
and devote himfelf exclufively to his country.
Individuals, in convention, may confent to
give up a portion of their perfonal | rights, for |
the general good, and for the fuperior ad-
vantages accruing to themfelves, in fociety :
but, perhaps, no man can love his country
better than himfelf, or become fo pure a pa-
triot as to facrifice his perfonal eafe, his com-
fort, his happinefs, and even his life, from a
fondnefs for the foil whereon he was born.
Self-love would feem a more powerful
and more effential principle of our nature
than love of our country, and, without fore-
going this great leading principle, a man
may be a very good patriot.—They are in no
degree incompatible, and, confiftent with the
duties he owes himfelf, a man may poflefs
enough of patriotic virtue to call forth all the —
high duties demanded of him by his country.
The love of fame, as a branch of felf-
love, is a much ftronger principle of action
than patriotif{m, and-may lead to acts, whence
4i7
the country is highly benefitted, and which
from intimacy of connexion, when only
fuperficially examined, may appear to artfe
from patriotifm alone. Perhaps the greateft
deeds of the moft renowned patriots, whether
of ancient or modern times, could the princi-
ple from which they were derived be fairly
traced, or the fecret motives which caufed
them be fully difclofed, would be found to
have arifen, not barely from a patriotic feeling, |
but, in a ftill greater degree, from that power-
ful and infatuating pafion—the love of fame.
Could thofe modern great men, or thofe
~ heroes of antiquity, who are faid to have died.
for their country, have been fully made to be-
lieve that from the moment they ceafed to
breathe their names would never again be
heard, or uttered—that. their remembrance
would at no future moment find piace In the
minds of their friends or defcendants, or in
the annals of their country; and that their
deeds would be. inflantly forgotten, and blot-
ted out in utter oblivion, it is more than
probable they had never regarded ail the good
their country. might derive irom the jacrihce
as an equivalent for the lofs of life—and
VOL. I. E°E
4. 18
that, confequently, thofe great aéts (faid to
be) of patriotif{m had never pee known.
It has been faid eee were there no
uniform there would be no foldiers.” However —
much this may be doubted, it will, perhaps,
be lefs difputed, that if no perfonal honor
or fame were to attach to thofe great deeds,
which are faid to arife from patrioti{m, few
would die from an abftraat love of country. —
There is a happy fomething in our na-
ture which leads all men to extol honorable ~
and virtuous actions, and to deprecate fuch
as are corrupt and vicious: however de-
raved himfelf, there is a certain upright con-
du which, in others, even the moft diffolute
does and muft approve! Every one, my.
friend, will efeem the conduét of the republi-
can fecretary, which has led me to fatigue
you with thefe remarks. Alas! that every
one would learn to imitateit! Then might
thefe dire political contefts ceafe’; and then —
were it unimportant to Europe and the world
whether France fhall, finally, fucceed in efta-
blifhing a republican government, or grow
weary of blood-ftained faétion and. revert
to a monarchy! |
419
LETTER XXXII.
4A packet arrives at Barbadoes. Carlifle Bay, and Bridge-
Town one great fcene of confufion. High feaft. of peru-
jing the news-papers. The fleet fo long expected at Bar-
badoes fiill in England. Seafon growing late for military
operations. Report that honors are to be conferred on Ad=
miral Chriftian for his great exertions in taking care of the
convoy. Admiral Cornwallis expefied in the Weft Indies.
Hope of peace vanifbed. Auftvian armies checked and
defeated. Scarcity of corn and fpeciein England. Gre-
nada in danger of being taken by the Brigands.—St. Vin-
cent - = - = by the Charibs. A French fpy detected at Bar-
badoes,
Barbadoes, March 16.
Wuat a day of hurry, confufion, and foli-_
citude! a packet has at length arrived! From
December the oth, to March the 16th, have
we been feparated from you without hearing
one word of our friends, or {carcely of our
country. How fhall I convey to you any juft
idea of the fcene this day has produced by the
impatient multitude crowding in anxious €a-
gernefs to obtain letters, to fee the papers,
and to hear the news!
EE82
420
Early in the morning a fignal appeared
at the fort, implying that a veffel was in fight.
Soon afterwards, this was lowered down, and
the packet fignal hoifted in its place ; when
inftead of the pleafing expedtation of feeing
a vellel of our fleet, and learning news of the
convoy, all were on tiptoe in the ftill more
lively hope of hearing news, not only of our
unfortunate armada, but of Europe, of Eng-
dand, and..... our friends! Concerning the
fleet we had grown quite weary of conjecture,
and now faw it probable that we might obtain
more accurate intelligence refpeting it, by
way of England, than by any fhip which had
been feparated from it upon the paflage, :
On the packet making the harbour. it
caufed a crowd not unlike what you may have
feen at a failing or rowing match of boats up-
on the Thames. Each withing tq be firft, and
allbeing anxious to learn the news, the veffel
was befet on every quarter before fhe could
come to anchor, and the whole bay became
one animated fcene of crowded fhips and
moving boats. Many who could not go tothe
packet as fhe entered the harbour, repaired on —
fhore to. be ready, there, to meet the news.
~
42%
\
The people of the town, alfo, thronged the
beach in anxious multitudes. All was bufy
expectation. Impatience fcarcely allowed the
bags to reach the office: every avenue to which
was fo clofely blockaded that the houfe was
quite ina ftate of fiege, and the poft-mafter
and his manfion in danger of being taken by
{ftorm.
I: was about eleven o'clock when the in-
{pector general, Dr. Matter, and myfelf, follow-
ingthe common tmpulfe, went to inquire for
our letters and papers ; but we could only ad-
vance within fight of the poft-office walls,—
to approach the door was utterly impoffible.
Finding the crowd to be ftill fo deep, we ram-
bled about the town, and made calls upon
various perfons in order to glean the news.
We found that it was the firft January packet,
which had arrived, and hence it could not be
expected to bring the regular papers later
than to the 6th of that month, although it
failed fo late as the gth of February, having
“been detained at Falmouth waiting for a fas.
vorable wind.
EE 3
422
Seeing no profpec of afcertaining
whether we had any letters, we returned from
the hot and crowded town to take our din-
ners quietly on board, and te enjoy the high
feaft of reading the papers, which our obliging
and attentive friend, Mr. Hinde, had kindly
allowed us to put into our pockets. You will
believe that this formed a moft exquifite de-
fert after our meal, and was of more grateful
flavor than all the fruits and (weets of a tropi-
eal foil.
To an Englifhman a news-paper Is a ne-
ver-failing fource of amufement ; and the high
delight thence derived appears to be, in fome .
meafure, peculiar to our nation. — If, therefore,
even at home, and ina peaceful hour, it be a
great pleafure to take up the Times or the
Chronicle of the morning, I put it to your
feelings to judge what muft have been our
enjoyment, when I tell you that, at this
wide diftance from our country, and after
being long fhut in ignorance regarding it, we -
have been quietly feated in the fhade of a cool
cabin to perufe the papers in the regular
feries of a whole fortnight. We remained
for ieveral hours fecluded and in filence,—
3
423
each fearing to fpeak left he fhould dif-
turb the others. In fancy I fee you watch-.
ing our party—catching each glance of the
eye as it runs anxioufly over every co-
lumn—amufing yourfelf at the folemn ftillnefs
that obtains among us—and fmiling at the
-fudden ftart and flight paufe of interruption
which occurs at the remoteft corner of the laft
page, leading only to the delay of extending
the arm for another paper. I fee you con-—
templating the ideas pafling in our minds, and
marking the varied expreflion upon our
countenances as we pafs eagerly on from page
to page! But all thefe feelings have been
formerly your own; you will therefore
know how to eftimate them. Had you not
been already a traveller I could have wifhed
you a long voyage that you might know
the real value of a Morning Herald, or an
evening Star—that you might enjoy the high
flavor of a true Englith feaft, feafoned with ab-
fence! Send out our friend * * * * that he |
may be roufed from the apathy which fo dif-
trefsfully encroaches upon his mechanical
_ round of luxury and indulgence! Tell him
that were he held in difappointed expectation,
from day to day, through many anxious weeks,
BE 4
424 Wi
he would fad the amufements which he now >
partakes with indifierence to be really exqui-
fite : and affure him that the variety of occur-
rences, during a temporary privation, might di-
vert him from a life ef indolence and apall-
ing pleafure, and convince him that many
things he now difregards are capable of afford- .
ing far more enjoyment, than the vapid time-
killing routine of parading in Bond-Street,—
treading upon muflin trains in the crowd of
Kenfington Gardens,—and lounging at the
play and the opera, without hearing five words
of the performance !
We find the uncertainty, regarding
our convoy, removed by the news we read,
but not fo fatisfactorily as we had hoped;
for we have the mortification to learn that the
fleet, with which we failed from Spithead on
the oth of December, and which, for fo long
paft, we have anxioufly and hourly expected,
inflead of being fafe with us, at Barbadoes, is
lying quietly at anchor with you, in Eng-
land! - ; )
From the papers it is: afcertained that the
great body of the convoy, with our commander ©
425
- in chief and the admiral, are returned to St.
Helen’s, after continuing feven tedious weeks at
fea, beating again{t contrary winds and de-
- ftruGtive ftorms, and that many of the fhips,
which had feparated, had previoully put back
to Cork, Kinfale, Plymouth, and various other
ports. Thisis very diftrefling and vexatious
news, for it robs us of the pleafing hope with
which we had daily looked out for our com-
rades, and tells us that all ftill remains --- - to
be done again! Twice has this great expedi-
- tion put to fea, and during many months has
it been, daily, expeCted to arrive‘ yet after a
long and vivid fufpenfe do we now learn
that itis fill inan Englith harbour, only pre-
paring to fail!
A voyage to the Haft Indies or to China
“might be performed in lefs time than feemsto
be required for this unhappy expedition to
reach its deftination. It was expected to fail
fo long fince as the month of September, and
actually did put to fea in November, and again —
on the gth of December ; and its arrival has
been anxioufly looked for, by the people of
the iflands, more than half a year!
4.26
The feafon is rapidly advancing—the
milder temperature of the climate, and the more
favorable period of the year are wearing away,
and the wet months faft approaching: we fear,
therefore, that all the ills to be apprehended
from climate may now be expeéted in the
midft of the campaign, or before the troops
can well be brought into aétion.
When or how the convoy is again to at-
tempt the voyage we do not learn: but it
feems to be the opinion, on your fide the wa-
', that the commander in chief will failin a |
- izate without delay, and that the fleet will
follow, in {mall divifions, as {peedilyas the fhips
can be repaired and made ready for fea. This
would undoubtediy be mofi advifable ; for the
waiting to aflemble Be convoys, and the de-
laysand accidents which neceflarily happen to .
them, at fea, would feem to be the very bane
of the entereiite: |...”
“We are Qill told that the Cork divifion
may be daily expected, yet we learn that it had
not failed when the packet left Falmouth.
From all we can collect it would feem proba-
_-
427
ble that more than fix thoufand troops, and up-
wards of fixty fhips, many long fince arrived,
may have ftill to wait through another tedious
period at Barbadoes. | |
‘ |
We find it among the reports of the day —
that honors are to be conferred onthe Admiral
for braving the weather, during fo many weeks
at fea, andreturning to port iv England with fo
great a number of the convoy in fafety. On
reading this the captain of our fhip wittily afk-
ed—* What honors are thofe to receive, then,
who fought through all the perilous ftorms,
and have made good their paflage to a port
Sein the We Indies 2?”
Some fay that it is likely Admiral Chrif-
tian will not again attempt this inaufpicious
voyage, and that Admiral Cornwallis will take.
command ofthe fleet when it next fails: but
concerning this you wili have the beft informa=
tion in England. Our prayers are that, let
who will command, you will fend out the
convoy, and not withhold from the troops
their long-expeted, and much-honored chief.
If ie are to give any credit to what we
read in the papers it would feem that the pro-
428
{pect of peace is more remote than fome had
ventured to hope. The Auftrians, we are for-
ry to find, have been checked on the Rhine,
and defeated under General de Vins in Pied-
mont. Before we failed from England appear-
ances were fomewhat pacific, and we were
not without the hope of foon returning to our
friends—indeed the delay in the departure of -
the fleet had been explained, by many, upon
the probability of an approaching peace! But
things again look more hoftile, and it feems
likely that our tropical fojourn may be of
longer duration than was at firft expected.
The papers we have received having, been
printed during the Chriftmas holidays, furnith
us with no parliamentary news ; but we learn
from them, with much regret, that our country —
experiences a fcarcity of corn, and of {pecie.
Without money, and without bread John Bull
would make war very badly indeed! Wheat
we find is at the extravagant price of thirteen
fhillings per bufhel, and bread as high as _
thirteen-pence half-penny the quartern loaf.
This, we fear, may create diffatisfaction, and
lead to commotions or ill-judged exceiles,
from the people erroneoully attributing events
429
to caufes which have no juft connetion with |
them*.
Having culled all the leading heads of
news Dr. Cleghorn and myfelf went on fhore |
in the evening, and returned the papers to Mr,
Hinde. We now took an opportunity of call-
ing at the poft-office to afk for letters in the
hope of hearing from you all; and there we
learned that a fad fcene of confufion had pre-
vailed throughout the day, from the crowd
forcing their way into the office, and each
perfon tumbling over the whole heap to look
for his own letters.
Iam forry to have again to inform you
that late accounts from Grenada fate the ifland
to be in great danger, and that we hold poflef-
fion of it by avery precarious tenure, the
troops being pent up in the town, and not
in fufficient force to march again{t the Bri-
gands. From St. Vincent we hear, alfo, that the
inhabitants have been obliged.to fly to arms
* We have been fo accuftomed to pay extravagantly
for bread, in England, fince this. period, that the pvice
which then feemed frightfully enormous, might now be
deemed moderate.
A
430
to affift the military, and that fiill they are not
powerful enough to defeat the Charibs. It is
further added that the negroes, impatient of
remaining inaCtive, have petitioned to be fent
againft the enemy, threatening to go over to
the Charibs if not foon employed to fubdue
them.
I had nearly forgotten to inform you that
a French {py has been dete@ted among us, who
has been, for fome time, watching the proceed-
ings of the fleet at Barbadoes. It were un-
neceflary to add that his life will be ithe fare .'
feit of his temerity.
Sir Raiph Abercromby arrives at Barbadoes on St.” Patrick's
‘day. Foyous feene in Carlifle bay. Author's reflections
upon {cenes which may follow. Succefs of tbe General in bis
third attempt to make the voyage. Many rumours expectéd
to prevail, Influence of feafon with refpec? to a campaign
inthe Weft Indies. The general Cuyler, and Clarendon ar-
rive in Carlifle bay. State of the Clarendon. Perils of
the general Cuyler. A Dutch mode of punifbment,
Progrefs of a leaky foip. Concerning the foips of the De-
cember convoy which made good their paffage.
March 17.
How rentful are the hours which now pafs
efore us! The fons of St. Pat atrick have not felt
431
themfelves more blefied, nor hailed in more joy~
ous greetings this hallowed day than the anxious
multitude at Barbadoes. It was only yefterday
that I took up my pen to announce to youa
glad arrival, and I have now to mention one
‘ftill more happy. Before breakfaft this morn-
ing a fignal appeared at the fort, implying that
a fhip of war-was in fight; and about eight
o’clock a proud frigate, with fails {welling to the
breeze, cut her liquid path filently into the bay,
and dropped her anchor in the midft of the
fleet. A general feeling of joy, inftantly,
fpread throughout the harbour. It was the
Arethufa, with Sir Ralph Abercromby, and
the officers of his ftaff on board. A fignal
was made from the agent, and all the thips
in the bay immediately manned their yards,
and rigging to hail, and to welcome, in loud
falutation, our long-expected commander in
chief. Three heart-felt cheers were, raptu-
roufly, fhouted from every vetlel, and as cor-
dially echoed by the Arethufa’s company.
The fcene thus introduced was novel
and peculiar, It was, alfo, highly intere(ting,
The yards, the tops, the mafts and Tigging
of all the veflels being covered with men, they
432
refembied clufters of bees, as they hang about
the hive at the moment previous to fwarming,
Each fhip was, indeed, a hive of men, but it
was without drones, for all were equally in-
duftrious in greeting the arrival.of the “ king
%
bee” among them.
‘Crowded with yards and mafts ‘the har-
bour refembed a thick forefi—the leaves of
which were men, not ruftling in the wind, but
fet in motion by the more animating breeze
of joy and gratulation.—Loud fhouts of wel-
come refounded throughout the bay, and
when the General went off in the boat to-
wards the landing place, each fhip repeated.
three cheers as he pafled—the multitude upon
the beach again fhouting his weleome as
he ftepped on fhore. On reaching the go-
vernment houfe at Pilgrim he was received
with afalute of twenty-one guns. The iame
number was then repeated from the fort,
which we had remarked did not fire any
falute when the frigate entered the harbour,
All ts now life and adtivity. An im=
pulfive fenfation vibrates throughout the bay.
Every breaft throbs with ardour, and, infpired
433
by the prefence of the commander in chief,
every one looks forward toa fuccefsful cam-
paign. No one imagines that fate has def-
tined him to fall; but each anticipates the
joyous moment, when he fhall return to relate
hiftories of battles won, and iflands conquered,
to his friends in peaceful England.—Yet alas!
to how few is it allotted again to vifit either
England or their friends! But to fuch re-
flections let me be filent:—to fpeak them
were unmilitary! Still the duties 1 may have
to- perform will, fometimes, call up ftrong
affociations in my mind, and amidft the bufy .
din of war, or, the loud rejoicings of victory,
my very foul will often {well with painful
fympathy. Even while I may feel a lively
joy in my country’s fuccefs, my agonized —
fpirit will dwell on fcenes of defolation ; and
be abforbed in the contemplation of indi-
vidual fufferings and afflidion. However
brilliant the campaign, the fad horrors of the
conteft will, frequently, ufurp the pofleffion of
of my mind, and create an afflictive impreffion.
But it would ill become me to expatiate on the
evils I am deftined to deplore. Upon the
great fubject of war be it mine to view the
VOL. I. ; FF
. 434
events before me with the eye of a foldier—
my immediate duty will be a fufficient tax
upon my feelings, as a man!
/ |
In his third attempt to reach the iflands
the commander in chief has been very fuc-
cefsful; the Arethufa having failed only on
the 14th of February, and, confequently, made
the voyagein thirty days. The general takes
up his abode at a large building a little way
out of the town, called the King’s houfe,
which 1s to be made the head quarters, during
the affembling of the troops, and the conti-
nuance of the army at Barbadoes. “
Much news will now, of courfe, obtain |
currency, and various and ftrange reports will
find their way into circulation ; many perhaps
equally devoid’ of truth and probability.
Every one being anxious to catch up each
word concerning England, and the expedition,
much will be haftily heard by fome, and as
haflily repeated by others, whereby even facts
will becéme fo diftorted as to lofe all features of
correcinefs ; and we fhall not dare to rely upon”
any rudiour we may chance to hear,
Among other things it is now {faid that
only the remaining troops, belonging to thofe
regiments already in the Weft Indies, are to
come out with the fleet; and that the others
are actually fent into different cantonments, in
England, there to remain until next Septem-
ber, before they again fail for the Weft Indies.
Of this we have many doubts; yet might it
feem to be a prudent arrangement: for, ad-
vanced as the feafon now is, it were, perhaps,
wife policy to poftpone the grand object of the
expedition for a December campaign; and to
employ the troops which are now here in re-
ftoring tranquillity to our difturbed and en- |
dangered iflands, thus fulfilling the more im-
mediate, although perhaps the minor ebjers
of the armament. |
A body of troops brought out in October
or November would have the feafon before
them for a long campaign, but were they to
Jeave England now, the length of time re-
quired for the voyage and for their being af-
_ fembled at Barbadoes, and again prepared for
leaving it, would bring them fo near to the
wet feafon, and to the hot and unhealthy pe-
riod of the year, that not only would multi-
SB i 2
436
tudes fall victims to difeafe, but impediments,
occafioned by the weather, might interrupt the.
proceedings of the campaign before any thing.
important could be effected.
We find that the Cork fleet has, un-
queftionably, been for feveral weeks at fea, and
may be daily expected; the Arethufa having
{poken feveral of the fhips of that convoy
upon her paffage. At the time the Arethufa
came into the bay two other fhips appeared
in fight: they are fince arrived, and prove.
to be the General Cuyler merchantman, of
our divifion (long fuppofed to be loft), and
the Clarendon tranfport of the Cork divifion :
——their arrival, and the reported approach of
the Cork fleet add to the aufpicious events of
St. Patrick’s day.
The fad uncertainties of a fea voyage:
are ftrongly exemplified in the combined ar-
rival of the General Cuyler, and the Claren-
don. The one failed on the 9th of December,
and the other on the oth of February; (pe-
riods more diftant than the time ufually re-.
quired for making the voyage) yet, fo favora-
ble had been the elements to. the one, and. fo.,
437
‘adverfe to the other, that they both came into
Carlifle bay at the fame moment.
The Clarendon, we are told, left the har-
bour of Cove with a fleet of 132 fail, having
10,000 troops on board ; but fhe parted from
the convoy, in the courfe of the firft night, and
has not feen any fhip belonging to it fince.
She has brought out nearly 200 men of the
ggth regiment, who, we are forry to find, have
been far from healthy, notwithftanding the
favorable paflage they have made. From this
we are led to fear that thofe who are longer
detained at fea may arrive in a very fickly
ftate. |
The fafety of the General Cuyler fpread
confolation among us, and very muchaugment-
ed the great and general joy diffufed by the
arrival of the commander in chief. You will
feel that I had real pleafure in felicitating my —
friend Nichol, who was one of the paffengers,
when I tell you that it had obtained univerfal
belief that this fhip was loft at fea, or, at beft,
taken by the enemy.. Indeed, for feveral
wecks paft, fuch had been the defpondent feel-
F iF’ 3
438
“ings regarding her, that it would have been a
great relief to us to have heard that fhe was in
the enemy’s poffeffion. She had failed with
us on the 9th of December, and was the laft
fhip we had fpoken in the European feas,
which was on the 4th of January, and on the
roth of February our fhip reached Carlifle bay;
hence from our having been five weeks in har-
bour without hearing of her, fcarcely a hope re--
mained of ever feeing her again. Nor were our
apprehenfions far from being realized, for on
the 7th of January,only three daysafter wehad
hailed her, fhe {prung a leak, and during twen-
ty fucceeding days, was only kept from fink-
ing by the perfevering toil and exertions of the
fhip’s company and the paffengers, allof whom
took their regular watch at the pumps, for fix
or eight hours each day. With great difficul-
ty the was kept afloat: daily their peril in-
~creafed, and, for nearly three weeks, they had
only the melancholy profpet of going to the
bottom, before they could poflibly make any
port. Almoft exhaufted with fatigue and
apprehenfion, the hope of being faved had
| nearly abandoned them, when, fortunately,
they made one of the Canary Hlands, | :
6
ae 439
' Few occurrences can be fo truly diftreff-
ing, or fo ftrongly calculated to deprefs the
mind with defponding feelings, as this critical,
and very perilous fituation at fea. To prevent
the threatened fate, exceflive bodily exertions
are required, when, from the impreflion of
terror, a fufficient degree of hope fearcely re-
mains to ftimulate or fupport the fatigue.
Extreme toil is demanded—perhaps, too, in
an exhaufting, and ungenial climate, and under
the deprefling profpedt of the veffel finking in -
defpite of every effort ! pe
The Dutch are faid to have a mode of pu-
nifhment fomewhat refembling this very dan-
gerous and affliting fituation, although infi-
nitelyremoved from it, on accountof the perfon
who is expofed to it knowing a certain meansof
faving himfelf, provided he has enough of in-
duftry to continue his ¢xertions. The prifoner
is confined in aroom, into which wateris made
conftantly to flow, fo increafing in depth that
he muft, inevitably, be drowned if he is idle:
butif he will be induftrious and perfevere at
the pump, he knows thata certain proportion of
labor will keep down the water, and preferve
his life. Surely none but the amphibious and
FFA
440
toiling Hollanders could have invented -fuch a ©
punifhment—fuchan aquatic remedy! although:
it muft be allowed to be a moft excellent one a-
gainft idlenefs. Butina leaky thip at feano fuch ©
certainty is attainable. The leak may increafes
and no human effort may be fufficient to keep
the veflel upon the furface; and, in fuch cafe, all ©
refource is denied,—the impending doom can,
no way, be averted! No mental powers, no
bodily exertion can ought avail. Safety is not
to be attained by any effort of human ftreneth,
or human wifdom. No opening is left for intel-
leGtorenterprize. Each road leads equally to de-
fpair ; and the event can neither be avoided nor
refitted. Oneach hand the wretched fufferers
fee only the wide jaw of deftruGion. The
leak {till increafing, the water continues to gain
upon allthe means employed. It grows deep-.
er: the finking thip moves heavily on: her
weight oppofes all the farce of wind and fails;
‘fhe labours to proceed: her progrefs is more
and more impeded: the flow motion ceafes
at intervals : a dread paufe fucceeds : the fhip
no longer moves! A momentary filence,— a
‘death-like ftillnefs prevails throughout the
crew; or impulfive horror ejaculates in loud
{
44n
bewailings ! She finks to the bottom, and
all hands perifh in the filent deep.
You will join in our rejoicings that fuch,
although long threatened, was not the fate of
the General Cuyler. Happily fhe put into
Palmas, and was faved. Atthe time of gain-
ing the harbour fhe had many feet water in the
_hold, and, only with great exertion, was kept
~ afloat while the cargo was removed. A fort-
night’s delay was occafioned in repairing her,
and fitting her for the remainder of the voyage.
It is upwards of fourteen weeks fince fhe
failed from England, twelve of which have
been aétually paffed at fea: moft of them in|
ftrugeling againft ftorms and gales—againit
contrary winds, and contending elements !
_ The paflengers are quite in furprize to
find that, even at this late period, their thip is
among the early arrivals of the convoy; having
imagined that, during their perilous delay, the
whole fleet muft have reached Barbadoes, and
the troops been again embarked for their re-
fpective deftinations.
44200
On the other hand, all who arrive in the
fhips from England or Ireland are aftonifhed
to find fomany veflels of the convoy at Bar-
badoes, having been led to’ believe, from the
account of thofe who returned, that the whole
mutt have either gone back, put into different
ports on the paflage, or been loft at fea.
(443—
LETTER “XXXxiit.
Carlifle Bay the Thames of the Weft Indies. Arrivals from
various quarters. A flave-/hip engages a French Priva-
teer. The Madras E. Indiaman, anda packet arrive in
~ Carlifle bay. Admiral Chriftian receives the Honors of
Knighthood. Vifit to the Venus flave-foip. Author and
Dr. Cleghorn continue to ufe walking exercife. Eftate of
Mr. Daniel. Tamarind tree, and frut.
Barbadoes, March 22.
Carrisre bay is become quite the bufy
Thames of the WeftIndies. Scarcely adaypaifl-
es without the arrival of veflels from one part
of the globe or another ; and to us this affords.
a degree of varietyand amufement ; for we are
frequently enlivened by the fignals made for
veffels either coming into harbour, or appear-
ing in fight, and which prove to be from vari-
ous, and widely feparated coafts. Englith
fhips of war, merchantmen, and tranfports; —
flave fhips from the coaft of Africa; packets ;
prizes ; American traders; ifland veffels, pri-
vateers, fifhing {macks, and different kinds of
boats, cutters, and luggers, are among the al.
4.4.4
moft hourly variety, to be feen either entering
or quitting Carlifle bay.
The day after the arrival of the Arethufa
we were early enlivened by fignals for other
veflels coming in from windward ; but they
proved to be fhips from very oppofite coafts ;
one being from Hiallifax, and the other
a Guinea-man with a cargo of flaves from
Africa.
Several veffels of the Cork fleet have ar-
rived within the few laft days; but none of
them bring any accurate tidings of the fleet,
moft of them having parted from the convoy, .
during the firft or fecond night after quitting
the harbour, and not having feen it fince.
The Charlotte tranfport was chafed by a pri-
vateer at the diftance of only a few leagues
from Barbadoes, and muit, inevitably, have
been taken, but for the fortunate circumftance
of a flave fhip, from the coaft of Guinea, com-
‘ing up at the time and engaging her purfuer. —
A running action was maintained, for two
hours, between the Guinea-man and the pri- _
vateer, when the latter fheered off, leaving the
flave fhip, and her protegée, to purfue their
445
way quietly to Barbadoes—the flave thip hav-
_ ing fuffered confiderably in her rigging. |
The Madras Eaft Indiaman and a packet
are this day arrived from England. They
failed, the one from Falmouth, the other from
St. Helen’s, on the 23d of February, and have
made the voyage within a month. The Ma-
dras brings a cargo of ordnance ftores. She
failed alone, and made a running paflage. Se-
-veral perfons availed themfelves of the oppor-
tunity of coming out in this fhip as paflengers ;
and fhe has alfo a {mall party of artillery- men
on board.
The arrival of the prefent packet has not
caufed fo great a fenfation as was produced by
the appearance of that which I mentioned to
you before, although we are much pleafed and
gratified to fee it. We have now an ample
fupply both of Englifh and American papers,
_and from the arrivals being more frequent, and
the commander in chief among us, the fad
torpor of preceding weeks no longer reigns.
Activity prevails, and the fufpenfe of waiting
is alleviated by bufy preparation.
446
We now learn that Admirat Chriftian
has received the honor of knighthood for his.
exertions, in keeping the fea fo long, during
fuch dreadfully tempeftuous weather: and we
are told that Admiral Cornwallis, and Sir —
Hugh Chriftian are both coming out to the
Weft Indies. By thofe on board the packet
it is reported they were to fail the day that the
came away; but the paflengers in the Madras
fay that they were not to fail for nearly a
month after. ‘The latter fhip coming from
the place where the convoy had aflembled,
and the circumftance of many of the fhips
being difabled and requiring to be repaired,
render the report from the Madras the moft
probable.
We have lately had an opportunity of: Vi-
fiting the Venus flave fhip of London, juft ar-
rived with a cargo of flaves, from the coaft of ©
Africa. ‘The fhip appeared fmall : there was
~ awant of fpace, and the negroes feemed crowd-
ed ; but, in all other refpets we were pleafed
to remark the excellence of the accomodations,
and the great attention paid to the health and
comfort of the flaves.. The cargo confifted of
230 prime negroes, allin high health, and good
\
ee : 4.47
ipirits. The fhip wasremarkablyclean, No fick-
nefs had appeared among the blacks, or the
crew ; nor had any one died upon the paflage.
They made the voyage in fix weeks, and the
flaves were fed the whole time with Guinea
corn. The average value of the cargo is cal-
. culated at nearly £ 50 each negro. The cap-
tain has but few hands in his fhip’s company,
yet from his kind treatment of the flaves he has
fo well fecured their attachment and obedience,
as to feel no apprehenfion of a revolt, or of
any occurrence to menace their fafety.
Dr. Cleghorn and myfelf continue our
_pedeftrian excurfions about the neighbour-
hood of the bay. Inone of our late rambles
we afcended fome hills in the vicinity of Bridge. -
Town, which afford a fine land{cape of the
ifland, together with a view of the town, the
harbour, and the fea.
Situated below this mountainous range is
the plantation of a Mr. Daniel ; an old and ru-
ral eftate which is fheltered, and rendered
picturefque by the neighbouring hills. Here
we faw avery lofty and fine avenue of trees, of
the valuable Lignum Vite ; alfo an immenfely
LoS
a
j ot f
i: wn tonn
er aa 4
4
+ ry
et
fo
wi
Xe”
a
times feen to grace’ the door-way
‘ ; ‘ ‘7 7 be ‘ ‘
in a ee! : ee
* Ms i?
ie e 3 we
large and, andiest tamarind ae oft more,eXx-
aks, OF Gonbaite ding whl hick
Enelifh dwellings. The tamarind is of. the
Mimofa tribe, and may be regarded as a very,
handfome example of ‘the vegetable creation.
It bears an immenfe quantity of fruit, which
hangs in a filiquofe form, among the {mall
leaves, and the numerous pods being of a dirty _
brown colour they give a fingular appear-
ance, without adding to the beauty of the tree.
Upon this old ornament of the manfion were
hanging many bufhels—perhaps I might fay
3 -
many hogfheads of tamarinds, which were left 3
to fall ufelefs to the ground. Efteemed as this
fruit is in Europe, in its preferved ftate, it
feems to be as little valued here, as the common
crab of the hedges in England, and is equally
negleCted, not being confidered worth the labor
of gathering, or the expence of the fugar re-
quired | in preferving it. . | |
END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
‘Strahan and Prefton, —
Printers-Sireet.
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