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THERURAL

I UBRARY 1

1ANDSCAPF
AKCH.

THE NURSERY -BOOK

Craft

THE HORTICULTURIST'S RULE BOOK

THE NURSERY- BOOK

PLANT BREEDING

THE FORCING -BOOK

THE PRUNING -BOOK

GARDEN - MAKING

THE PRACTICAL GARDEN -BOOK

Others in preparation

THE

NURSERY-BOOK

A COMPLETE GUIDE TO
THE MULTIPLICATION OF PLANTS

L. H. BAILEY

SEVENTEENTH EDITION

lark
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY

LON7DON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD.
1912

Set up and eiectrotyped August, 1896

Reprinted January, 1897, July, 1898, May, 1900, July, 1901,

February, September, 1903, February, 1905, January, June, 1906,

August, 1907, June, 1908, July, 1909, March, 1910

January, June, 1911, June, 1912

Add1!
GIFT

J. HORACE MCFARLAND COMPANY
HARRISBURG - PENNSYLVANIA

SB'H-9

LAN I SCAPE

ARCH,
t LIBRARY

PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION.

THIS little handbook aims at nothing more than an
account of the methods commonly employed in the prop-
agation and crossing of plants, and its province does not
extend, therefore, to the discussion of any of the ultimate
results or influences of these methods. All such ques-
tions as those relating to the formation of buds, the
reciprocal influences of cion and stock, comparative ad-
vantages of whole and piece roots, and the results of
pollination, do not belong here.

In its preparation I have consulted freely all the best
literature of the subject, and I have been aided by many
persons. The entire volume has been read by skilled
propagators, so that even all such directions as are com.
monly recommended in other countries have also been
sanctioned, if admitted, as best for this. In the propaga-
tion of trees and shrubs and other hardy ornamentals, I
have had the advice of the head propagator of one of the
largest nurseries in this country. The whole volume has
also passed through the hands of B. M. Watson, of the
Bussey Institution of Harvard University, a teacher of un-
usual skill and experience in this direction, and who has
added greatly to the value of the book. The articles upon
orchids, and upon most of the different genera of orchids
in the Nursery List, have been contributed by W. J. Bean,

632

V PREFACE.

of the Royal Gardens, Kew, who is well known as an
orchid specialist. I have drawn freely upon the files of
magazines, both domestic and foreign, and I have made
particular use of Nicholson's Illustrated Dictionary of
Gardening, Vilmorin's Les Fleurs de Pleine Terre, Le
Bon Jardinier, and Rumpler's Illustrirtes Gartenbau'
Lexikon.

It is believed that the Nursery List contains all the
plants which are ordinarily grown by horticulturists in this
country, either for food or ornament. But in order to give
some clue to the propagation of any which are omitted, an
ordinal index has been added, by which one can search
out plants of a given natural order or family. It cannot
be hoped that the book is complete, or that the directions
are in every case best for all regions, and any corrections
or additions which will be useful in the preparation of a
second edition are solicited.

L. H. BAILEY.
ITHACA, N. Y., January i, 1.891.

PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION.

THIS manual was first published in 1891, by the
Rural Publishing Company. In 1892, the publishers'
made a second edition from the same plates ; and
both editions are exhausted. The book has had no
revision or corrections, therefore, until the present
time. It has enjoyed a popularity far beyond its
merits, and it has, therefore, seemed worth while to
fully revise and recast it, and to make it one of the
Garden-Craft Series.

In this revision, it has seemed best to give a some-
what full discussion of the too prevalent assumption that
graftage is necessarily a devitalizing process, and to
analyze the unclassified knowledge respecting the mutual
influences of stock and cion, and the respective peculi-
arities of root-grafted and budded fruit trees. Some-
thing has also been said respecting the so-called
exhaustion of nursery land, and of various other nur-
sery matters upon which there seems to be much mis-
understanding. The Nursery List now comprises the
notes and suggestions of many correspondents, and the
results of the experience and experiment of five addi-
tional years. The entire volume has been thoroughly
ransacked and renovated, and in this work I have
(vii)

Vlll PREFACE.

been aided by B. M. Watson, to whose efficient aid
the first edition owed so much, and by my associate,
E. G. Lodeman.

The chapter upon pollination has been omitted in
this edition, because a similar one has been incorpor-
ated in my "Plant-Breeding." The ordinal index, which
was a separate feature of the other editions, is now
included in the regular index.

L. H. BAILEY.
CORNELL UNIVERSITY,

ITHACA, N. Y., July i, 1896.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

SEEDAGE 1-25

1. Requisites of Germination i

Regulation of P-'oisture i

Requirements of Temperature 7

Influence of Light upon Germination 8

Regermination 9

2. Seed-Testing 9

3. The Handling and Sowing of Seeds and Spores 15

Preparatory Treatment of Seeds 15

Transportation of Seeds from Abroad 19

Sowing 20

Damping-off 23

Spores 24

CHAPTER II.
SEPARATION AND DIVISION 26-34

1 . Separation 26

2. Division 32

CHAPTER III.
LAYERAGE 35-43

CHAPTER IV.

CUTTAGE 44-72

i. General Requirements of Cuttings 44

Devices for Regulating Moisture and Heat 44

Bottom Heat 53

(ix)

X CONTENTS

PAGE

Soils 54

The Formation of Roots 55

2. The Various Kinds of Cuttings 58

Tuber Cuttings 59

Root Cuttings 60

Stem Cuttings 62

Leaf Cuttings 70

CHAPTER V.

GRAFTAGE 73-156

1 . General Considerations 73

Mutual Influence of Stock and Cion 74

Limits of Graftage 77

General Methods 78

Classification of Graftage 79

Is Graftage a Devitalizing Process ? 81

2. Budding 94

Shield-budding 95

Prong-budding 105

Plate-budding 105

H-budding 106

Flute-budding 106

Chip-budding 107

3. Grafting 107

Whip-grafting 108

Modified Whip-grafts in

Saddle -grafting 113

Splice-grafting t 113

Veneer-grafting 113

Side-grafting 115

Inlaying 117

Cleft-grafting 1 18

Bark-grafting 129

Herbaceous-grafting t 130

Seed-grafting 131

Cutting-grafting 131

CONTENTS. XI

PAGE

Double-working 133

Inarching 132

Grafting Waxes 134

4. Nursery Management 138

Nursery Lands 139

Grades of Trees 142

The Storing of Trees 143

Trimming Trees in the Nursery 146

Dwarfing 147

Root Grafted vs. Budded Trees 148

CHAPTER VI.

THE NURSERY LIST I57-336

GLOSSARY - . . . 337

INDEX 349

HORTICULTURE I -PLANT PROPAGATION

Required Text : Bailey's "Nursery Book"
AUGUST -DECEMBER, 1912

PROVISIONAL SCHEDULE

LECTURES

AND RECITATIONS

Enrollment. 1

Recitation, Seedage; 2

pp. 1-25.

Aug. 27. Lecture. 3

Aug. 20.
Aug. 22.

Aug. 29.

Sept. 3.

Sept. 5.

Sept. 10.

Sept. 12.

Sept. 17.

Sept. 19.

Sept. 24.

Sept. 26.
Oct. 1.

Eecitation, Separation and 4.

Division, pp. 26-34.
Lecture. (Report choice 5.

of herb for individual

work.)
Recitation, Layerage; Cut- 6.

tage; pp. 35-43; 53-58.
Lecture. Oral quiz on 7.

practice work.
Recitation, Cuttage; pp. 8.

42-72. (Preliminary herb

report.)
Lecture. 9.

Recitation, Budding; 10.

pp. 94-107.
Review. (Report choice 11.

of shrub for individual

work.)

Midterm examination. 12.

Lecture. (Report choice 13.

of tree for individual

work.}.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES

Seed testing.

Seed testing. Sow tree seeds.

Sow annual and perennial herb

and fern spores.
Bulbs and corms. Pot off rose j

and rooted willow cuttings.
Tubers and rootstocks. Pot off i

geranium and fuschia cutting

Layerage demonstrations.

Individual work.
Layerage. Prick out seedlings.

Soft wood cuttings.
Leaf cuttings.

Prick out fern plants and seedlii

Note Books.
Practice budding. Bud rose am

low in house.
Bud roses and apricots in nursei

Transplant seedlings.

Individual work.

Bud walnuts in nursery.

Transplant ferns and seedling

THE NURSERY-BOOK.

CHAPTER I.

SEEDAGE.

I. REQUISITKS OF GERMINATION.

THERE are three external requisites to the germination
of seeds — moisture, free oxygen, and a definite temperature.
These requisites are demanded in different degrees anc.
proportions by seeds of different species, or even by seeds
of the same species when differing widely in age or in
degree of maturity. The supply of oxygen usually regu-
lates itself. It is only necessary that the seeds shall not
be planted too deep, that the soil is porous and not
overloaded with water. Moisture and temperature, how-
ever, must be carefully regulated.

Regulation of Moisture. — Moisture is the most important
factor in seedage. It is usually ap-
plied to the seeds by means of soil
or some similar medium, as moss
or cocoanut fiber. Fresh and vig-
orous seeds endure heavy water-
ings, but old and poor seeds must
be given very little water. If there
is reason to suspect that the seeds
are weak, water should not be ap-
plied to them directly. A favorite
method of handling weak and also /. Double seed-pot.

2 SEEDAGE.

very small seeds is to sow ihem in a pot of loose and sandy
loam which is set inside a larger pot, the intermediate space
being filled with moss, to which, alone, the water is applied.
This device is illustrated in Fig. i. The water soaks through
the walls of the inner pot and is supplied gradually and con-
stantly to the soil. Even in this case it is necessary to pre-
vent soaking the moss too thoroughly, especially with very
weak seeds. When many pots are required, they may be
simply plunged in moss with the same effect. The soil
should be simply very slightly moist, never wet. Moisture
is sometimes supplied by setting the seed-pot in a shallow
saucer of water, or it may be sufficient to simply place it
in the humid atmosphere of a propagating-box. Large but
weak seeds may be laid upon the surface of the soil in a
half-filled pot, covered with thin muslin, and then covered
with loose and damp loam. Every day the pot is inverted,
the covering taken off and fresh soil added. A modifica-
tion of this plan, for small seeds, can be made by placing
the seeds between two layers of thin muslin and inserting
them in damp loam, which is frequently renewed to avoid
the extremes which would result from watering or from
allowing the soil to become dry. In these last operations,
no water is applied to the seeds, and they constitute one
of the most satisfactory methods of dealing with seeds of
low viability. They are essentially the methods long ago
used by Knight, who laid such seeds between two sods
cut from an old and dry pasture.

Even sound and strong seeds should be watered with
care. Drenchings usually weaken or destroy them. The
earth should be kept simply damp. To insure comparative
dryness in indoor culture, some loose material, as pieces of
broken pots or clinkers, should be placed in the bottom of
the pot or box to afford drainage. It should be borne in
mind, however, that the seed-bed should be approximately
equally moist throughout its depth. The waterings should,
therefore, be copious enough to moisten the soil throughout.

SOAKING SEEDS. 3

A wet or moist surface over a dry substratum should always
be avoided. Error is common here. It is usually best to
apply water with a watering-pot, as watering with a hose is
apt to wash out the seeds and to pack the soil, and the
quantity of water is not so easily regulated.

At first thought, it would appear that the apparently good
results following soaking of seeds in many cases are a contra-
diction of these statements that seeds may be over-watered.
But soaking is usually beneficial only when practiced for a
comparatively short time. It is not good practice to soak
delicate seeds before sowing, and it is of doubtful utility in
most other cases, unless it is necessary to soften the integu-
ments of hard-shelled species, as
discussed on page 16. The gain in
rapidity of germination following
soaked, as compared with dry seeds,
is often fictitious, inasmuch as germi-
nation actually begins in the soaked
seed before the dry samples are sown.
The soaked seeds are sown in water

rather than in soil, and as conditions *• Seed-pot, covered with

.r , . glass.

are more uniform there, a gain appar-
ently due to soaking may result. In the case of strong seeds
which must be planted outdoors in cold or uncongenial soil,
a preliminary soaking of from 12 to 24 hours may be bene-
ficial, as it lessens the period which the seeds would other-
wise pass in untoward conditions. But soaked seeds, unless
of very hardy species, should never be sown outdoors until
the soil has become rather dry and warm.

To prevent too rapid drying out, the soil should be firmly
pressed about the seeds. The pot or box should be given a
shady place, or some covering may be applied to check
evaporation. A pane of glass is often placed over the pot
(Fig. 2) or box, being tilted a little at intervals to allow
of ventilation and to prevent the soil from becoming soggy
or "sour." A seed case, with a glass cover, as shown in
Fig. 3, is neat and handy in the treatment of small seeds.

SEEDAGE.

j. Glass-covered seed-case.

A thin covering of fine moss is sometimes given, or a news-
paper may be thrown over the soil.

In outdoor culture, only a naturally dry and well-drained
soil should be chosen for all ordinary seeds,
especially for such as are sown in the fall
or remain in the ground a long
time before germinating. Soils
which contain a liberal amount of
sand or gravel are especially val-
uable for this purpose.

To prevent drying in outdoor
culture, it is important that the earth

be well firmed over the seeds. Walking on the row, placing
one foot directly ahead of the other, is usually the most
expeditious and satisfactory operation, at least with large
seeds. Or the earth may be firmed with a hoe or the
back of a spade, or a board may be placed upon the row
and then be thoroughly settled by walking over it. For
small lots of seeds, it is well to cover them with an inverted
flower-pot (Fig. 4), exercising care to tilt it frequently to
prevent the plants from "drawing."
In the sowing of celery and other
small and slow seeds, it is a frequent
practice to leave the board on
row until the seeds appear,
in order to hold the mois-
ture. This is a doubtful ex-
pedient, however, for the
young plants are apt to be
quickly dispatched by the
sun when the board is removed. If the board is employed,
it should be raised an inch or two from the ground as
soon as the plants begin to appear. But the shade of the
beard is too dense, and plants do not grow stocky under
it. It is better to use brush or lath screens if protection
is desired ; or fine litter, if free from weed seeds, may be
used. In most cases, however, screens will not be needed,

the

4. Seeds covered with flower-pot.

SUN-SCREENS FOR SEEDS.

by celery and similar seeds if the ground is in the proper
condition, so that it will neither bake nor dry out quickly,
and is well firmed at planting time, and if the seeds are
sown early, before hot, dry weather comes. It is always
advisable, nevertheless, to place the beds for slow and
small seeds where
they can be watered
occasionally.

There are many
kinds of screens in
use to prevent the
drying out of small
seeds in outdoor
seedage and to pro-
tect the young seed-
lings. These are
used also in the
shading of cuttings.
The common lath screen (Fig. 5) is the most useful for
general purposes. It is simply a square frame made from
common laths laid at right angles in a double series. The
interstices between the laths are equal in width to the laths
themselves. These screens are laid horizontally upon a
light framework a few inches above the seeds. The pas-
sage of the sun constantly moves the shadows over the bed,

5. Lath screen.

6. Brush screen.

and sufficient shade is afforded while thorough ventilation is
allowed. This and all other elevated screens are useful in
shading and protecting the young plants as well, but when

SEEDAGE.

used for this purpose they are usually raised a greater dis-
tance above the beds. A brush screen, consisting of a low
frame covered with boughs, is often used, as shown in Fig. 6.
This is cheaper than the lath screens, and is equally as good

7. Screen for frames.

for most purposes. The brush is often laid directly upon the
ground, especially in large beds. This answers the purpose
of shading, but it does not allow of weeding, and it must be
taken off soon after the seeds germinate, or slender plants
will be injured in its removal. Brush screens are sometimes
raised three or four feet to allow of weeding. A screen for
frames is shown in Fig. 7. It is a simple covering of muslin
stretched over the top and sides of a rough framework.

The cloth is usually
omitted from the front
side. This style of
screens is much used
by nurserymen, espe-
cially for cutting-beds.
Whitewashing the
sashes of coldframes
also affords good shading. A more elaborate and perma-
nent screen is shown in Fig. 8. It is built of slats, usually
3-inch stuff. This shed screen is oftenest used for the pro-
tection of tender plants, but it affords an exceedingly use-

8. Shed screen for seeds and plants

REQUIREMENTS OF TEMPERATURE. 7

ful and convenient place for the storage of pots and boxes
of slow-germinating seeds. A more 'elaborate shed screen,
made of lath or slats, and containing seed-beds edged with
boards, is shown in Fig. 9.

Various frames and covers are employed for indoor
seedage, but they are designed to regulate atmospheric
moisture and to control temperature. They are more

Large shed screen, with seed-beds.

commonly employed in the growing of cuttings, and are,
therefore, described in Chapter IV.

Requirements of Temperature. — Variations in temperature
exercise less influence upon seeds than variations in moisture.
Yet it is important that the extremes of temperature should
not be great, especially in small, delicate or weak seeds.
Seeds will endure greater extremes of temperature when
dry than when moist. This indicates that germinating seeds
must be kept in a comparatively uniform temperature. For
this reason it is poor practice to put seed-boxes in a window
in full sunlight. Partial or complete shade serves the double
purpose of preventing too great heat and too rapid evapora-
tion. Various covered seed-boxes are used for the purpose
of maintaining approximately the required temperature, but

8 SEEDAGE.

as they are oftener used in bud-propagation, they are dis-
cussed in that connection.

Bottom heat is helpful to germination in most seeds, but,
except in the case of certain tropical species, it should not
be strong. It is a common practice to place seed-boxes on
moderately cool pipes under benches in a greenhouse. Seeds
of hardy annuals and perennials do not require botton heat,
although they may be benefited by it. If the soil in seed-
beds should become too cool, watering with warm or tepid
water will be found to be helpful.

It is impossible to give rules for the determination of the
proper temperature for different kinds of seeds. In general,
it may be said that seeds germinate most rapidly at a tem-
perature a few degrees above that required for the best
development of the plant itself. Seeds of hardy plants re-
quire a temperature of from 50° to 70°, conservatory plants
from 60° to 80°, and tropical or stove plants from 75° to 95°.
The plantlets should be removed from these highest tem-
peratures, as a rule, as soon as germination is completed.

In outdoor culture, depth of planting has a direct relation
to temperature. Seeds may be planted deeper late in the
season than early, when the soil is cold and damp. Deep
planting probably as often kills seeds because of the absence
of sufficient heat as from the lack of oxygen or the great
depth of earth, through which the plantlet is unable to push.

Influence of Light upon Germination. — The influence which
light exerts upon germination is not definitely understood
for all horticultural seeds. It is known, however, that seeds
will often germinate in full sunlight, if the proper conditions
of moisture and temperature can be maintained. Seeds
sown upon a moist surface and covered with a glass present
an interesting study. But it is well known, on the other
hand, that some seeds will not germinate, or will at least
appear unevenly, if subjected to sunlight. At least some of
the delphiniums, papavers and adonises germinate very
imperfectly, if at all, in direct light. It is always advisable

REGERMINATION. — SEED-TESTING. g

to keep germinating seeds in shade or partial darkness,
especially as there is nothing to be gained by exposing
them. Of course, the soil itself is sufficient protection if
the seeds are covered.

Regermination.— It is a common statement that seeds
can never revive if allowed to become thoroughly dry after
they have begun to sprout. This is an error. Wheat, oats,
buckwheat, maize, pea, onion, radish and other seeds have
been experimented upon in this direction, and they are
found to regerminate readily, even if allowed to become
thoroughly dry and brittle after sprouting is well progressed.
They will even regerminate several times. Wheat, peas and
other seeds have been carried through as many as seven
germinations after the radicle had grown a half inch or more
and the seeds had been sufficiently dried in each trial to
render them fit for grinding.

2. SEED-TESTING.

Whilst it is not the province of this handbook to discuss
the question of the testing of seeds, a few hints upon the
subject may be acceptable, particularly in the bearing of the
remarks upon seed sowing. Germination is complete when
the plantlet begins to assume true leaves and to appropriate
food directly from the soil. The testing of seeds is not
always concerned with germination, but with the simple
sprouting of the samples. Many seeds will sprout which are
not strong enough to germinate completely, and more seeds
will be counted as viable when they are tested in some
germinating apparatus — where the conditions are ideal —
than when they are normally planted in the soil. There is
even sometimes a marked difference between the results of
seed-tests made in soil in the greenhouse and in outdoor
planting, as the following comparisons (Bulletin 7, Cornell
Experiment Station, 1889) plainly show :

" It has been said recently that the ideal test of seeds is
actual sowing in the field, inasmuch as the ultimate value of

SEEDAGE.

the seed is its capability to produce crop. This notion of
seed-tests is obviously fallacious, although the statement
upon which it is based is true. In other words, actual plant-
ing rarely gives a true measure of the capabilities of all the
seeds of any sample, because of the impossibility to control
conditions and methods in the field. The object of seed-
tests is to determine how many seeds are viable, and what
is their relative vigor ; if planting shows poorer results, be-
cause of covering too deep or too shallow, by exposing to
great extremes of temperature or moisture, or a score of
other untoward conditions, the sample cannot be held to
account for the shortcoming. The following table indicates
the extent of variations which may be expected between
tests and actual plantings of seeds from the same samples :
"Various samples were tested indoors and actually
planted in the field. The seeds were sown in the field June
5, and the last notes were taken from them July 5. They
were sown on a gravelly knoll. Rain fell about every alter-
nate day, and the soil was in good condition for germina-
tion throughout the month. The indoor tests were made in
loose potting earth, or in sand in seed-pans. —

SAMPLES.

No. of
germ, in
house.

Per cent
of
germ, in
house.

No. of
germ, in
field
(200 seeds
sown).

Per cent
of
germ, in
field.

Per cent
of
differ-
ence.

Endive, Green Curled, Thor-
burn (200 seeds)
Tomato, Green Gage, Thorburn
(too seeds)
Turnip, Ea. Six Weeks, Dept.
of Agriculture (200 seeds) .
Pea, White Garden Marrowfat,
Thorburn (60 seeds) . . .
Celery, White Plume, Thor-

88
72
180
55
41

44
72
90
91.6
41

53
93
65
181

26.5
46.5
32.5
90-5
II

17-5
25-5
57 5
i.i
3°

Onion, Red Wethersfield,
Thorburn (200 seeds) ....
Carrot, Early Forcing, Thor-
burn (too seeds)

148
7°

74
70

42
19.5

50.5

Carrot, Vermont Butter, Hos-
kins (100 seeds)

22.5

42-5

SEED-TESTING. II

"The table indicates that actual planting in the field
gives fewer germinations than careful tests in conditions
under control. This difference in total of germination,
even under favorable conditions of planting, may amount
to over 50 per cent.

"In planting, due allowance should be made for the
comparatively bungling methods of field practice by the
use of greater quantities of seeds than would seem, from
the results of tests, to be sufficient."

Probably the most truthful test of seeds can be made in
soil in earthen pans in a greenhouse or forcing-house. When
one desires to show the ultimate percentage of seeds which
contain life, the sprouting test should be used. In this case,
some apparatus should be employed in which the moisture
and temperature can be controlled to a nicety, and in which
the seeds can be examined as often as desired. As soon as
a seed sprouts, it is removed and counted as viable, wholly
independently of whether it is strong enough to make a plant
under ordinary conditions. In other words, the sprouting
test is almost wholly an attempt to arrive at a numerical
estimate of the viability of the sample, rather than an effort
to determine the relative strength of germinative power.

There are many excellent devices for the making of
sprouting tests, only three or four of which need be men-
tioned here, for the purpose of illustrating some of the
principles which are employed. One of the best known
of these apparatus in this country is the Geneva tester,
which originated at the New York Experiment Station at
Geneva.

A full account of this device by Professor J. C. Arthur
(Botanical Gazette, 1885, p. 425) is here inserted :

"Various methods have been used for testing the per
cent and time of seed germination. Those most commonly
adopted in this country and also abroad have been to place
the seeds on the surface of porous tile, smooth sand or
compacted earth. Without stopping to point out the defects
and inconveniences of these methods, I desire to describe

SEEDAGE.

10. The Geneva seed-tester.

an apparatus devised at the New York Agricultural Experi-
ment Station, and which has been found so satisfactory as to
supersede all other sorts of germinators at that institution
for general use. It consists (Fig.
10) of a pan 10x14 inches wide
and 3^ inches deep, to be cov-
ered with a pane of
glass. Along the
sides is a ledge
;Hrinch wide, and as
much below the upper
edge. The pan is
best made of tinned
copper, the ledge
formed by the proper
shaping of the sides
of the pan, and the
edges on three sides
turned over to form

a groove into which the pane of glass may be slid from
one end. These details are not shown in the cut. The
seeds are held in the folds of cloth. A strip of white
Canton flannel is taken sufficiently wide so that when
hemmed on both sides (to prevent seeds slipping out of the
ends of the folds) it will be the same as the inside width of
the pan. A long enough strip is used to have about twenty-
four folds i>£ inches deep, and leave a flap of several
inches at each end. The upper margin of the folds is
sewn across to permit a J^-inch brass rod to be run in
(Y, P), from which the cloth is suspended in the pan, as
shown in the cut. The lower margins of the folds (o) are
also sewn across to make them stay in place better. The
total length of the strip after the sewing is completed is
about a yard. Two such strips are used in each pan.

' ' To put the pan into use, it is filled part full of water,
two of the prepared cloths put in, the glass cover adjusted
and the whole boiled over a lamp for a short time. This is

SEED - TESTERS. 13

necessary in order both to thoroughly wet the cloth and to
kill any mold or other germs. When again cool, adjust the
cloths on the brass rods and put in the seeds. Each fold
will hold 25 large seeds, like beans, and a hundred or more
small seeds. Water is placed in the pan, but not enough to
touch the folds of cloth ; the four flaps drop down into it,
however, and keep the cloths sufficiently wet by capillarity,
which is increased by the long nap on the under surface of
the cloth. The folds are numbered consecutively, and the
record kept by the numbers.

"The advantages in a pan of this kind are the facility
with which the seeds may be examined and counted, the
thorough and uniform moisture of the seeds throughout
the longest trials, its lightness and cleanliness. It is nec-
essary to renew the cloths from time to time, as they will
slowly rot out, even with tne best of care."

a Az.

ii. An absorbing block seed-tester.

A device of a wholly different character, used in Ger-
many, is shown in Figs, u and 12 (Annals Hort., 1890, 268).
It consists of three parts : a tin tray (c) for holding water ;
a block of gypsum (b) which sits in the tray and contains
several compartments for the reception of the seeds, and
which is kept moist by capillary attraction ; a glass cover
(a). The apparatus is seen at work in Fig. 12. This
device works upon a principle which has long been util-

SEEDAGE.

12. The seed-tester (No. //) set up.

ized in the testing of seeds — the capillary power of earth-
enware and various
species of rock — and
there are many appli-
cations of the idea in
practice. These seed-
testers may be placed
in an incubator or
other heating device,
or they may be used
in the greenhouse or
a living-room.

A recent bulletin (No. 35) of the Rhode Island Experi-
ment Station describes and illustrates a modification of
the absorbing-block idea. Instead of a slab of stone or
earthenware, "sprouting cups" are used. "These were
made for this statiom out of porous clay by A. H. Hews
& Co., of North Cambridge, Mass., the pattern being
'much like that used at the Seed Control Station at Zurich,
Switzerland. They are 3 inches in diameter and i^

inches high, including
the cover, which is ven-
tilated, as shown in Fig.
13. The bottom is solid
and >£-inch thick. Each
cup is placed in a glass
dish in which a constant
supply of water is kept." These cups are placed in a
"sprouting chamber" (Fig. 14), supplied with uniform
heat. "This holds about fifty cups. Heat is supplied
by a gas jet, which is supported beneath the chamber,
and it is distributed evenly to all sides of the chamber,
except the front, by means of a water-jacket. It is pro-
vided with two doors, the inner one being glass. There
is an opening in the side and top for ventilating, and a
second opening in the top for the insertion of a thermom-
eter. There are also two openings into the water-jacket

13. Sprouting cup.

STRATIFYING SEEDS.

at the top. In one of these a thermostat (c) is placed,
which controls the flow of gas at the jet beneath, and in
the other a thermometer (D) may be placed to show the
temperature of the water in the jacket."

3. THE HANDLING AND SOWING OF
SEEDS AND SPORES.

Preparatory Treatment of Seeds. — Many seeds demand
some treatment preparatory to sow-
ing. Nearly all hard and bony
seeds fail to germinate, or at least
germinate very irregularly, if their
contents are allowed to become
thoroughly dry and hard. The
shells must also be softened or
broken, in many cases, before the
embryo can grow. Nature treats
such seeds by keeping them con-
stantly moist under leaves or mold,
and by cracking them with frost.
This suggests the practice known
to gardeners as stratification, an
operation which consists in mix-
ing seeds with earth and expos-
ing them to frost or to moisture
for a considerable time.

Stratification is practiced, as a
rule, with all nuts, the seeds of forest trees, shrubs, the
pips of haws and often of roses, and in many cases with
the seeds of common fruits. Seeds should be stratified
as soon as possible after they are mature. Small seeds
are usually placed in thin layers in a box alternating with
an inch or two of sand. Sometimes the seeds are mixed
indiscriminately in the sand, but unless they are large it
is difficult to separate them out at sowing-time. The
sand is often sown with the seeds, however, but it is
difficult in such cases to distribute the seeds evenly, and

sprouting chamber.

16 SEEDAGE.

in sowing large quantities the handling of the sand entails
a considerable burden and becomes an item of expense.
It is advisable to pass the sand through a sieve of finer
mesh than the seeds, and the seeds can then be sifted
out at sowing-time. If the seeds are very small or very
few in number, they may be placed between folds of thin
muslin, which is then laid in the sand. Any shallow box,
like a gardener's "flat," is useful in making stratifica-
tions, or pots may be used with small lots of seeds. A
flat four inches in depth might contain two or three
layers or strata of seeds the size of peas.

The disposition of the boxes when filled varies with dif-
ferent operators. Some prefer to bury them. In this case
a well-drained sandy slope is chosen. The flats are placed
in a trench from one to two feet deep, covered with a single
thickness of boards, and the trench is then filled with earth.
The seeds usually freeze somewhat, although freezing is not
considered necessary unless in the case of nut-like seeds.
The object attained in burying is to keep the seeds moist
and fresh, inducing the rotting or softening of the coverings,
while they are buried so deep that they will not sprout.
Seeds of most forest trees should be treated in this manner.
They are commonly left in the ground until the following
spring, when they are taken up and sown in drills in mellow
ground. If good loam, to which has been added a little
well-rotted manure, is used, the seeds or nuts of hardy trees
and shrubs may be allowed to germinate and grow for one
season in the flats. At the end of the season or the next
spring, the plants can be transplanted without losing one.
This is, perhaps, the best way to handle rare and difficult
subjects.

Many growers place the boxes on the surface in some
protected place, as under trees or in a shed, and cover them
during winter a foot deep with clean straw or leaves. If
boxes are piled on top of each other they should be mulched
with moss, else the under ones may become too dry. Or
the boxes may be placed, without covering, in a shed, but

TREATMENT OF BONY SEEDS. IJ

they must be examined occasionally to see that they do not
become too dry. Precaution must also be taken to keep
away mice, squirrels, blue-jays, and other intruders.

Large, nut-like seeds or fruits, like peach-pits, walnuts
and hickory-nuts, are usually buried in sand or light loam
where they may freeze. Or sometimes the large nuts are
thrown into a pile with earth and allowed to remain on the
surface. Freezing serves a useful purpose in aiding to crack
the shells, but it is not essential to subsequent germination,
as is commonly supposed. All seeds, so far as known, can
be grown without the agency of frost, if properly handled.

Fall sowing amounts to stratification, but unless the soil
is mellow and very thoroughly drained the practice is not
advisable. The seeds are liable to be heaved or washed out,
or eaten by vermin, and the soil is apt to bake over them.
Under proper conditions, however, the seeds of fruits and
many forest trees thrive well under fall sowing. The seeds
should be sown as soon as they are ripe, even if in mid-
summer ; or if the ground is not ready for them at that time,
they may be temporarily stratified to prevent too great hard-
ening of the parts. It is best, however, to allow all green
or moist seeds to dry off a few days before they are strati-
fied. Fall-sown seeds should always be mulched.

Some seeds rarely germinate until the second year after
maturity, even with the best of treatment. The thorns,
mountain ash, hollies, viburnums, some roses, and many
others belong to this category. Some growers sow them
regularly as soon as they are ripe, and allow the beds to
remain until the seeds appear. This is a waste of land and
of labor in weeding, and the best way is to stratify them and
allow them to remain until the first or second spring before
sowing.

Partial substitutes for stratification are soaking and scald-
ing the seeds. Soaking may be advantageously practiced
in the case of slow and hard seeds which are not enclosed
in bony shells, and which have been allowed to become dry.
Seeds of apple, locust, and others of similar character, are

l8 SEEDAGE.

sometimes treated in this manner. They are soaked for 24
or 36 hours, and it is commonly supposed that if they are
exposed to a sharp frost in the meantime, better results
will follow. While still wet the seeds are sown. Scalding
water may be poured over locust and other seeds to soften
their coverings, but seeds should not be boiled, as some-
times recommended.

The germination of bony seeds is often facilitated by filing
or cutting away the shell very carefully near the germ, or by

boring them. A bored nelumbium seed is

shown in Fig. 15. Moonflower and canna

seeds are similarly treated.

Treatment with various chemicals has been

recommended for the purpose of softening
15. Bored seed, integuments, and also for some power which

strong oxidizing agents are supposed to exert
in hastening germination itself, but the advantages are
mostly imaginary. Secret and patented "germinator "
compounds had better be avoided.

Pulpy and fleshy coverings should be removed from
seeds before sowing. Soft fruits, like berries, are broken
up or ground into a pulp, and the seeds are then washed
out. This separation may be performed immediately in
some cases, but when the pulp adheres to the seed, the
whole mass is usually allowed to stand until fermentation
and partial decay have liberated the seeds. The pulp will
then rise, in most instances, leaving the seeds at the bottom
of the vessel. Seeds can be liberated quickly by adding a
stick of caustic potash to each pail of water. After the
mass has stood an hour or so, the seeds can be rubbed out
easily. Even tomato seeds can be cleaned with safety in
this manner. Seeds which have thin pulp, as the viburnums
and many haws, can be prepared by rubbing them through
the hands with sharp sand. Or the scant pulp of such seeds
may be allowed to rot off in the stratification box. Fleshy
coverings of hard and bony seeds may be removed by mac-
eration. Allow them to stand in water at a temperature of

TRANSPORTATION OF EXOTIC SEEDS. IQ

about 75° for one to three weeks, and then wash them out.
Resinous coverings are sometimes removed by mixing the
seeds with fresh ashes or lime, or by treating them with lye.
Hard, thick-walled seeds are rarely injured by the decay of
the pulpy covering, but thin-walled seeds should be cleaned,
to avoid the possibility of damage arising from the decay of
the pulp.

Transportation of Seeds from Abroad.— -The transporta-
tion of certain kinds of seeds over long distances, especially
on sea voyages, is often beset with difficulties. Thick-meated
or soft seeds may become too dry if stored in a warm
place or too moist if stored in a cool one. The humid at-
mosphere of the ocean is fatal to some seeds unless they
are well protected, and the moist and hot climates of some
tropical countries destroy many seeds of cooler regions be-
fore they can be planted, or cause them to sprout in transit.
Thin-coated seeds demand dryness and air, and bony seeds
usually need moisture and a more confined atmosphere.
Most seeds may be sent dry and loose in coarse paper
packages under all ordinary circumstances ; but if they are
to traverse very hot and moist climates, they should be
sealed in tin cases or very securely wrapped in oiled paper,
in which case the seeds should be thoroughly dried before
being packed, and precautions taken to insure the dryness
of the air in the package. Small seeds which are liable to
become moldy may be packed in finely powdered charcoal.
Apple and pear seeds are often imported in this manner.
The seeds or fruits of woody plants require more careful
management. They should generally be transported in
some sort of stratification. A favorite method is to place
them in boxes or jars, mixed with naturally moist sand or
sawdust, or slightly moist dead sphagnum moss. Some
prefer to seal the packages hermetically, but under ordinary
conditions this is unnecessary. In transit, the packages
should be stored in a medium and uniform temperature.
Even acorns, which are often difficult to transport over long
voyages, may be carried in this manner with safety. It is

2O SEEDAGE.

important that the soil should not be wet. Natural soil
from a dryish and loamy pasture is excellent. In some
cases it is better to sprout the seeds in the native country
and ship the seedlings in a closed or Wardian case.

Sowing. — The soil in which seeds are sown, ^speciaiiy
in indoor culture, should be such as to allow of perfect drain-
age and at the same time to hold moisture. Good potting
soil, with a liberal allowance of sharp sand, is the best for
general purposes. Pure sand becomes too dense, and leaf
mold alone is usually too loose and open. A proper combi-
nation of the two corrects both faults. It is impossible to
describe a good potting or seed-bed soil. Some experience
is essential to the best results in preparing it. It should be
of such character that when a damp portion is firmly com-
pressed in the hand it will fall apart when released. It
should never bake. Good old garden loam, to which an
equal quantity of sand has been added, is usually a good soil
for common indoor seedage. There should be no manure
in soil used for seeds which produce a delicate growth, as
rhododendrons and kalmias. In all such cases, rotted sod
or leafy peat is an excellent medium. Live sphagnum moss
is also a good material upon which to sow various heath-like
seeds, as kalmias, andromedas, and the like. Soil should
be sifted and thoroughly fined before seeds are put into it.
Seeds usually require lighter soil than that in which the
growing plant will flourish. Cocoanut fiber is sometimes
used in place of the soil, as it holds moisture, allows of
almost perfect drainage, and does not become "sour."
Fine dead sphagnum moss may also be used. Orchid seeds
are usually sown on the live moss in which the parent plant
is growing ; or they may be sown on damp wood or cork.
(See under Orchids, Chap. VI. ) Small seeds, like those of
cineraria and calceolaria, germinate well in very old cow-
dung obtained from a pasture, from which the unctuous
matters have disappeared, leaving a fibrous remainder.
But all things considered, well-prepared soil is the most
satisfactory medium which can be used for most seeds.

SOWING OF DELICATE SEEDS. 21

Seeds of aquatic plants, which are to be sown in a pond,
may be placed in a ball of clay and dropped into the water.
Water lily seeds may be sown in the greenhouse in sub-
merged pots or pans.

Shallow boxes or "flats" and earthen seed-pans and
lily-pans are usually preferable to pots in which to sow
seeds. They give more surface in proportion to their
contents, and require less attention to drainage. If pots
are used, the 4 to 6-inch sizes are best. All delicate
seeds, like tuberous begonias, primulas, gloxinias, and
also spores, are generally sown in pots or pans, which
are covered with a pane of glass. (See Figs. 2 and 3.)

If delicate seeds are sown outdoors, they should be given
some protection, if possible. An ordinary hotbed frame
gives the best results. In warm weather or a sunny expo-
sure it will be found desirable to substitute a cloth screen for
the sash. A thin or medium water-proof plant-cloth, either
commercial or home-made, is excellent for this purpose. It
may be tacked upon a simple and light rectangular frame
which is strengthened at the corners by iron " carriage-
corners." These cloth-covered frames are handy for many
purposes, particularly for protecting and supplying some
warmth to seed-pans and young seedlings.

It is essential that good drainage be given all indoor
seed-pots or seed-beds. A layer of broken pots or other
coarse material is placed on the bottom. Many growers
place a thin layer of fine dead sphagnum moss or of peat
over this drainage material, and it is useful in preventing the
too rapid drying out of the bottom of the pots. It is particu-
larly useful in isolated pots or small boxes. Over the moss,
coarse siftings from the soil may be placed, while on top only
the finest and best soil should be used. The smaller the
seeds, the more care must be exercised in the sowing.

The proper depth for sowing varies directly with the size

of the seed. The chief advantage of very fine soil for small

seeds is the greater exactness of depth of covering which it

allows. Very small seeds should be sown upon the surface,

22 SKEDAGE.

which has previously been well firmed and leveled, and then
covered with a very thin layer of finely sifted soil or a little
old and dead moss rubbed through a sieve. This covering
should be scarcely deeper than the thickness of the seeds ;
that is, the seeds should be barely covered. Many prefer
pressing the seeds into the soil with a block. Or if one has
a close propagating-box, the seeds may remain upon the
surface and sufficient moisture will be supplied from the
atmosphere. Such fine seeds are rarely watered directly, as
even the most careful treatment would be likely to dislodge
them. The soil is usually well watered before the seeds are
sown, or moisture may be supplied by inserting the pot in
water nearly to its rim for a few minutes. If water is applied
from a. rose, a thin cloth should first be spread on the soil to
hold it. Celery seeds, in outdoor beds, are often sown upon
a smoothly prepared surface and are then pressed in by
means of the feet or a board. Some cover to prevent evapo-
ration should be given all small seeds. This may be a board
or a slate slab at first, but as soon as the plants appear
glass should be substituted to admit light. (See pp. 3 to 7.)

Large seeds demand much less care as to depth of cover-
ing, as a rule. One-fourth or one-half inch is a good depth
for most coarse seeds indoors. If one wishes to gauge the
depth accurately, the drills may be made by a planting stick,
like that shown in Fig. 16. Its flange is made of the required
thickness, and it is pressed into the soil until the cap strikes
the surface. This is a useful implement in seed-testing.
Another device for regulating the depth of sowing, par

ticularly in seed-testing, is
the Tracy planter, shown in
Fig. 17. It consists of two
strips of heavy tin plate
about three inches wide,

hung upon two wire pivots
16. Planting stick.

or hinges some two inches

long. At their upper edges, and equidistant from either
end, the plates are joined by a firm spiral spring,

DAMPING-OFF. 2$

which serves to throw the upper edges apart, and to
cause the lower edges to join. The trough is now filled
with the required number of seeds, and is then inserted
into the earth to a given depth, when the fingers push
inward on the spring and the trough opens and delivers
the seeds.

Delicate seeds, which are sown out of doors, should be
given a very accessible location because they will need
constant watching in dry weather and during heavy rains.

17. Tracy seed-planter,

A border along a wall is a favorite site for a seed bed.
A French method of preparing such a bed is shown in
Fig. 1 8 (after Mottet).

Damping-Off. — The gardener must always be on the
lookout for the rotting-off of seedlings. This damping-off
is a common ailment of young seedlings and cuttings.
The stem becomes brown and constricted at or near the
surface of the soil, and it soon rots and falls over. The
top of the plant often remains alive and fresh for several
days after it has fallen. Various fungi are concerned in
this disorder, and these have recently been discussed by
Atkinson (Bulletin 94, Cornell Experiment Station). The
conditions which seem to particularly favor the develop-
ment of these fungi are a moist and close atmosphere,
crowding, and careless watering. Plants are particularly
liable to damp-off if only sufficient water is applied to keep
the surface moist while the under soil remains dry. Hot
sand, sifted over the plants, will check it, but there is no
complete remedy. As soon as the trouble appears, give
more air and prick out the plants.

SEEDAGE.

Spores. — Ferns, lycopodiums and selaginellas are often
grown from spores. The general conditions adapted to the
germination of seeds are also suitable for the germination of

spores , but extra
care must be taken
with the drainage.

n^ If a pot is used, it
\</\\'VJr «F should be half or

filled with

^ ' ^ ? drainage material,

and the soil should
be rendered loose
by the addition of
bits of brick, char-
coal, cinders, or
other porous ma-
terials. The sur-
face soil should be
fine and uniform.
Some place a thin
layer of brick dust
upon the surface,
in which the spores are sown. It is a frequent practice to
bake the soil to destroy other spores which might cause
troublesome growths. The spores should be sprinkled
upon the surface and should not be covered. The pot
should be set in a saucer of water, or in damp moss, and
it should be covered by paper or a pane of glass if the
sun strikes it. Better results are obtained if the pot or pan
is placed inside a propagating-frame or under a bell-glass.
In place of earth, a block or small cubes of firm peat or
sandstone may be employed. The block is placed in a
saucer of water and the spores are sown upon its surface.
Water should not be applied directly to the spores, as it
is apt to dislodge them.

The period of germination varies in different species, but
three to six weeks may be considered the ordinary limits.

18. Seed-border.

THE SOWING OF SPORES. 2$

While still very small, the plantlets should be pricked out,
and for some time thereafter they should be subjected to the
same conditions as before. Spores are so exceedingly small
and light that the greatest care must be exercised in growing
them. In order to gather them, the fronds may be cut as
soon as the sori or fruit-dots turn brown, and stored in close
boxes or paper bags. When the spores begin to discharge
freely, the frond may be shaken over the pot, or it may be
broken up and pieces of it laid on the soil.

NOTE. — For tables of weights and longevities of seeds and quanti-
ties required for given areas, consult The Horticulturist's Rule-Book.

CHAPTER II.

SEPARATION AND DIVISION.

I. SEPARATION.

SEPARATION, or the multiplication of plants by means of
naturally detachable vegetative organs, is effected by means
of bulbs, bulbels, bulb-scales, bulblets, corms, tubers, and
sometimes by buds.

Bulbs of all kinds are specialized buds. They are made
up of a short and rudimentary axis closely encased in trans-
formed and thickened leaves or bulb-scales. These thick-
ened parts are stored with nutriment which is used during
subsequent growth. Bulbs occur only in plants which are
accustomed to a long period of inactivity. Many bulbous
plants are peculiar to dry and arid
regions, where growth is impossible
during long intervals. A bulb is,
therefore, a more or less permanent
and compact leaf-bud, usually occu-
pying the base of the stem under
ground and emitting roots from its
lower portion. Bulbs are conveni-
ently divided into two great classes
— the scaly, or those composed of
narrow and mostly loose scales, as
in the lily, and laminate or tunicate,
or those composed of more or less
continuous and close-fitting layers
or plates, as in the onion.

Bulbs often break up or divide themselves into two or
(26)

19. Bulb of Lilium can-
didunt

PROPAGATION BY BULBELS. 27

more nearly equal portions, as in Lilium candidum, shown
one-third natural size in Fig. 19. The parts may be separated
and treated as complete bulbs for purposes of propagation.
This division or separation of bulbs proceeds in a different
manner in nearly every species, yet it is so obvious that the
novice need not be perplexed by it. Almost any breaking
apart of these loose bulbs, if only a "heart " or central axis
remains in each portion, is successful for purposes of slow
multiplication ; but when flowers are desired it is usually
advisable to keep the bulbs as strong and compact as pos-
sible.

Bulbous plants multiply most easily by means of bulbels
— often also called bulbules and offsets — or small bulbs
which are borne about a large or mother bulb. In some
lilies, as Lilium candidum^ the bulbels form at the top or
crown of the mother bulb, and a circle of roots will be found
between them and the bulb ; in others, as L, speciosum and
L. auratum, they form on the lower part of the flower stalk-
In some species the bulbels are few and very large, or even
single, and they bloom the following year. In such cases
the bulb undergoes a progressive movement from year to
year after the manner of rootstocks, the bulb of one year
bearing a more or less distinct one
above and beyond it, which con-
tinues the species, while the old
one becomes weak or dies. This
method of bulb formation is seen
in the cut of Lilium pardalinum,
Fig. 20. In the hyacinth the bul-
bels form at the base of the bulb.

Bulbels vary greatly in size and
frequency in different species.
Sometimes they are no larger than 20. Bulb of Lilium parda-
a grain of wheat the first year, and linum (x%).

in other plants they are as large as hickory-nuts. In some
species they are borne habitually underneath the scales of
the mother bulb. These bulbels are often removed when

SEPARATION AND DIVISION.

si. Cut hyacinth bulb

the mother bulbs are taken up, and they are usually planted
in essentially the same manner as the bulbs themselves,
although it is desirable to place them, at least for the first
year, in a bed or border where they may receive careful
attention. Or, if they are especially
small and delicate, they may be
planted in pots or flats and be treated
about the same as single-eye cuttings.
In some lilies, the bulbels are allowed
to remain attached, and the whole
mass is planted in the fall in close
drills. Sometimes the larger lily
bulbels may produce flowers the fol-
lowing (or first) season, but they usu-
ally require the whole of the second
season in which to complete their
growth. The second fall they are
ready to be permanently planted. Bulbels of some plants
require even a longer time in which to mature into bulbs.
Bulbels are often produced by an injury to the bulb.
Growth of stem and leaves is more or less checked and the
energy is directed to the formation
of minute buds, or bulbs, in the
same manner as adventitious buds
form upon a wounded stem. Ad-
vantage is taken of this fact to
multiply some bulbous plants, and
in the case of the hyacinths, at
least, the mutilation of bulbs for
this purpose is practiced to a com-
mercial extent. Hyacinth bulbs
are cut in two, or are slashed in
various ways. The favorite method
is to make two or three deep transverse cuts into the base
of the bulb (Fig. 21). The strongest bulbs should be
chosen, and the operation is performed in spring or early
summer, when the bulb is taken up. The bulbs are some-

22. Hollowed hyacinth
bulb

ADVENTITIOUS BULBELS.

times hollowed out from the under side for half or more

of their depth. This operation is sometimes performed

later in the season than the other, and precaution should

be exercised that the bulbs do not become too moist, else

they will rot. Hollowed bulbs should be well dried before

being planted. Both methods of preparing hyacinth bulbs

are shown in Figs. 21 and 22, which are adapted from the

Gardener's Chronicle. Fig. 23 shows a portion of the base

of a cross-cut bulb, with the adventitious

bulbels. The mutilated bulbs are stored

during summer, and are planted in fall

or spring. The wounded bulbs produce

very little foliage, but at the end of the

first season the bulbels will have formed.

The bulbels are then separated and

planted by themselves in prepared beds.

Several years are required for the bulbels

to mature into flowering bulbs. Some of

the strongest ones may produce flowering

bulbs in three years, but some of them,

especially those obtained from the hollowed bulbs, will not

mature short of six years. This method of propagating

hyacinths is confined almost entirely to Holland.

The scales of bulbs are often employed to multiply
scarce varieties. From ten to thirty of the thicker scales
may be removed from the outside of the bulb without seri-
ous injury to it. These are treated in the same manner
as single-eye cuttings. They are usually han-
dled in flats or propagating - frames, and are
pressed perpendicularly into a light and loose
soil — half sharp sand and half leaf- mold — for
nearly or quite their entire length, or they may
be scattered in damp moss. Keep the soil sim-
ply moist, and for hardy and half-hardy species
keep the temperature rather low — from 45° to
24 Bulb ^°°' Slight bottom heat may sometimes be
scale (xi). given to advantage. In from three to ten weeks.

SEPARATION AND DIVISION.

a little bulbel, or sometimes two or more, will appear at
the base of the scale, as shown in Fig. 24. Late autumn
or early winter is a proper time for this operation. These
pots or flats may be plunged outdoors during summer if the
planting was done in winter, or the scales may be potted
off or transferred to the open border as soon as rootlets
have formed. It is the common practice with most hardy
species to allow the scales to remain in the original flats
during summer and to cover them the next fall, allowing
them to remain outdoors over winter. The succeeding
spring they are shifted into a bed or border, and by the

next fall — having had
two summers' growth
— most species will be
ready for permanent
planting in the flower
border.

A bulblet is a small
bulb borne entirely
above ground, usually
in the axil of a leaf or
in the inflorescence.
Familiar examples oc-
cur in the tiger lily and
in " top " onions. In
the former instance,
the bulblets are direct
transformations of
buds, while in the
onion they are trans-
formed flowers. It is
impossible to draw any sharp line of separation between
bulblets and buds. In some plants, certain buds detach
themselves and fall to the ground to multiply the species.
Sometimes these buds vegetate before they fall from the
plants, as in the case of various begonias and ferns. For
purposes of propagation, bulblets are treated in the same

25. Gladiolus corm

CORMS AND CORMELS. 31

way as bulbels, and like them, they reproduce the variety
upon which they grow. They will develop into full-
grown bulbs in from one to three years, according to the
species.

A cortn is a bulb-like organ which is solid throughout.
Familiar examples occur in the gladiolus and crocus. Cor-
mous plants are multiplied in essentially the same manner
as bulbous species. As a rule, a new corm (or sometimes
two or more) is produced each year above the old one, and
this commonly bears flowers the following season. This
renewal is well shown in the gladiolus, Fig. 25. The illus-
tration shows a gladiolus bottom, half size, when taken up
in November. At the base are seen the withered remains
of the corm which was planted in the spring, and above it
the new corm, which will furnish bloom the following sea-
son. A number of cormels or "spawn" have also ap-
peared about the base of the new corm. These may be
planted out in a border or bed, and will produce mature
bulbs in one or two seasons. The larger ones, under
good treatment, will often produce bulbs an inch in diam-
eter the first season. Some growers keep the cormels
a year and a half before planting them out (that is, until
the second spring), as they are thought to vegetate more
evenly under such treatment ; in this case they should be
placed in sand to prevent too great drying out.

Adventitious cormels may be produced by various
methods of wounding the mother corm, and this practice
of exciting them is often necessary, as some varieties do
not produce cormels freely. Each bud on the top or side
of the corm may be made to produce a separate corm by
cutting a deep ring around it, so as to partly divide it. Or
the corm may be directly cut into as many separate pieces
as there are buds or eyes, after the manner of cutting pota-
toes, but these pieces are usually handled in flats, where
temperature and moisture can be controlled. Almost any
injury to such vigorous corms as those of the gladiolus and
crocus will result in the production of cormels. if care is

32 SEPARATION AND DIVISION.

taken that the corms do not become so cold and wet as
to cause them to rot.

2. DIVISION.

The word division is commonly applied to that phase of
separation in which the parts are cut or broken into pieces,
in distinction to propagation by means of parts which
naturally separate at the close of the season ; but no hard
and fast line can be drawn between the two operations.
Whilst separation is mostly concerned with bulb-like and
corm-like organs, division operates mostly upon tubers and
rootstocks.

A tuber is a prominently thickened portion of a root or
stem, and it is usually subterranean. The potato, sweet
potato and dahlia furnish good examples. Tuberiferous
plants are multiplied by planting these tubers whole, or in
many cases the tubers may be cut into small portions, as
described in Chapter IV., in the descriptions of cuttings.
In hardy species, the tubers may be allowed to remain in
the ground during winter, but they are generally dug in
the fall and stored in a dry and cold place, but where they
will not freeze.

An offset is a crown or rosette of leaves, usually borne
next the surface of the ground, and which in time detaches
itself and forms an independent plant. The best examples
occur in the house-leeks, plants which are more familiarly
known as "hen and chickens" and "man and wife."
These offsets take root readily, and in propagating there
is no other care necessary than to remove and plant them.

A crown is a detachable portion of a rootstock bearing
roots and a prominent bud. Rhizomes or rootstocks mul-
tiply individuals and extend the distribution of the species
by means of a progressive movement of the crowns. The
rootstock grows during summer, and at the end of the sea-
son each branch develops a strong terminal bud, which
usually produces a flowering stem the following season.
The rootstock gradually dies away at its old extremity,

DIVISION.

and in a few years a single individual gives rise to a con-
siderable patch. This is well shown in the common May-
apple or podophyllum.

In some species these crowns
are removed in the autumn, and
are planted and handled in much
the same manner as bulbs. The
crown or ' ' pip ' ' of the lily-of-
the-valley, shown . in Fig. 26, is
obtained in this manner.

Rootstocks may be divided
into as many parts as there are
eyes or buds, and each part is
then treated as an independent
plant. Familiar examples of
such division are the common
practices of multiplying rhubarb
and canna. A canna rootstock,
or "stool," is seen in Fig. 27.
The observer is looking down
upon the top of the stool ; and
the five pieces show how the
operator has divided it. The
two lower pieces on the left show
the remains of the flower-stalks
of the previous year. If the variety were very scarce,
some of these pieces could be again divided into two or
three.

All perennial herbs may be multiplied with more or less
readiness by means of simply dividing the crowns. Most
bushes may be similarly treated, as lilacs, many roses,
spireas, and the like. The general stock species of herba-
ceous border plants — as aquilegias, hemerocallis, funkias,
and the like — are generally grown in permanent small
areas by nurserymen, and plants are cut out of the plot
as orders are received. If, however, the nurseryman is
making a special "run" on any plant, he gets his stock

Lily-of-the-valley crown

SEPARATION AND DIVISION.

by dividing up the crowns or rootstocks into small por-
tions, and then growing these for a season in specially
prepared beds, or sometimes in pots.

fj. Canna stool, divided into five plants ( x i-

CHAPTER III.

LAYERAGE.

MANY plants habitually propagate by means of decum-
bent shoots and runners. These shoots become more or
less covered with earth or leaves, and roots are emitted,
usually at the joints. In many cases, the old shoots die
away and an entirely independent plant arises from each
mass of roots. In other plants, the shoots remain attached
to the parent, at least for a number of years, so that the
plant comprises a colony of essentially independent but
connected individuals. Great numbers of plants which do
not propagate naturally by means of layers are readily
increased by this means under the direction of the culti-
vator. In most cases it is only necessary to lay down the
branches, cover them with earth, and allow them to remain
until roots are well formed, when the parts can be severed
from the parent. Layering is one of the simplest and
commonest methods of propagation,- as the mother-plant
nurses the layer-plants until they can sustain themselves.
It is a ready means of multiplying hard-wooded plants,
which do not grow well from cuttings.

All vines, and all plants which have runners or long and
slender shoots which fall to the ground, may be multiplied
readily by layerage. Among fruits, the black-cap raspberry
and dewberry are familiar examples. The raspberry canes
of the current year bend over late in summer and the tips
strike the earth. If the tip is secured by a slight covering
of earth, or if it finds lodgment in a mellow soil, roots are
emitted, and in the fall a strong bud or "crown " or " eye "

(35)

LAYERAGE.

is formed for next year's growth. The parent cane is sev-
ered in the fall or spring, some 4 or 6 inches above the
ground, and an independent plant, known as a "root-tip,"

as shown in Fig. 28, is ob-
tained. In this instance,
as in most others, it is im-
material at what point the
parent stem is severed, ex-
cept that a short portion of
it serves as a handle in
'J, carrying the plant, and also
>sl marks the position of the
plant when it is set. The
black raspberry propagates
itself naturally by means of
these layers, and it is only necessary, in most cases, to bring
the soil into a mellow condition when the tips begin to touch
the ground, in order that they may find anchorage. This
layering by inserting the growing point has the advantage of
producing very strong " crowns " or plants in autumn from
shoots or canes of the same year, and it should be more
generally practiced. Even currants, gooseberries and many
other plants can be handled in this way.

In most cases of layerage, it is necessary to bend down
the branches and to cover them. The covering may be

28. Raspberry tip (x 1-5).

29. Covered layer of viburnum (x 1-6).

continuous, as in Fig. 29, or it may be applied only to the
joints or restricted portions of the shoot, as illustrated in
Fig. 30. In either case the covering should be shallow, not
exceeding 2 to 5 inches. If the shoot is stiff, a stone or sod

SERPENTINE LAYERING.

may be placed upon it to hold it down ; or a crotched
stick may be thrust down over it, as in the "pegging
down" of propagators.

The strongest plants are usually obtained by securing
only one plant from each shoot, and for this purpose the
earth should be applied only at one point, preferably over a
bud somewhere near the middle of the shoot. If the buds
are close together, all but the strongest one may be cut out.

jo. Layered shoots.

If more plants are desired, however, serpentine layering
may be practiced, as shown at A in Fig. 30. The shoot is
bent in an undulating fashion, and from every covered por-
tion roots will form and a plant may be obtained. The
continuously covered layer also possesses the advantage of
giving more than one plant, but the roots are apt to form so
continuously that definite and strong plants are rarely ob-
tained ; these rooted portions may be severed and treated
as cuttings, however, with good results. The grape is
sometimes propagated by serpentine layering.

Stiff and hard-wooded plants do not often "strike" or

LAYERAGE.

root readily, and in order to facilitate rooting, the branch is
wounded at the point where it is desired that roots shall
form. This wounding serves to induce formation of adven-

31. Carnation layer (x.%).

titious buds at that point, and to check the growth of the
branch at the tip. It is a common practice to cut the branch
about half in two obliquely, on the lower side. This ope-
ration is known as ' ' tongueing. " "Ringing" or girdling,
twisting, notching, and various other methods are employed,
none of which, perhaps, possess any peculiar advantages in
general practice. Some propagators cut all the buds from
the covered portion. In this case the free and protruding
end of the layer is expected to form the top of the new
plant. "Arching," or very abrupt bending, as in serpentine
layering, serves the same purpose and is the only attention
necessary in most vines. A "tongued" carnation layer is
shown in Fig. 31. The layered stem is at S, and the root is
seen to have formed from the tongue. Thi$ method of
propagating carnations is common in Europe, but the plant
is always grown from cuttings in America. ,

MOUND-LAYERING.

When large numbers of plants are desired, as in commer-
cial nurseries, it is often
necessary to cut back the
parent plant to the ground,
or very nearly so, for the
purpose of securing many
shoots fit for layering. A
plant which is cut back in
the spring will produce

shoots fit for layering the
33. Mound-layering of gooseberry. foUowing spring . Qr SQme

species will produce them in abundance the same year if
layers of green or immature wood are desired. These pa-
rent or stock plants are called ' ' stools ' ' by nurserymen.

In many species, layerage is performed to best advantage
by heaping earth over the stool and around the shoots.
This is known as mound or stool-layering. The shoots send
out roots near the base, and straight, stocky plants are
obtained. The English gooseberries are almost exclusively
propagated in this manner in this country. Fig. 32 shows
a row of mound-layered gooseber-
ries. The shoots are allowed to
remain in layerage two years, in
the case of English gooseberries,
if the best plants are wanted, but
in many species the operation is
completed in a single season.
Quinces and Paradise apple stocks
are extensively mound -layered
The practice is most useful in 33- Layering -pot.
those low plants which produce short and rather stiff
shoots. Sometimes these layers are severed at the end of
the first season, and the plants are grown in the nursery
row for a year before they are placed upon the market.

As a rule, the best season for making layers is in spring.
Rooting progresses rapidly at that season. Many plants
"bleed," if layered very early in the season. Hardy

LAVERAGE.

shrubs may be layered in the fall, either early or late, and
if an incision is made,
a callus will have
formed by spring. If
rapid multiplication is
desired, the soft and
growing shoots may
be layered during the
summer. This opera-
tion is variously known
as "summer," "her-
baceous," "green"
and "soft" layering.
Comparatively feeble
plants usually result
from this practice, and
it is not in common
favor.

In glass houses,
shoots are sometimes layered
earth ; and the same

34. Pot-layerage.

in pots instead of in the
is often done with strawberries in
the field, giving the " pot-grown plants" of the nursery-
men. The French have " layering-pots, " with a slot in the
side (Fig. 33) for the insertion of the shoot. In one style
of pot, the slot extends from the rim down the entire
length of the side and half-way across the bottom (Fig. 36.)
Pot- layering, circumposition, air-layering and Chinese
layering are terms applied to the rooting of rigid stems by
means of surrounding them, while in their natural position,
.with earth or moss, or similar material. The stem is
wounded — commonly girdled — and a divided pot or box is
placed about it and filled with earth (Fig. 34). The roots
start from above the girdle, and when they have filled the
pot the stem is severed, headed back, and planted. Pot-lay-
ering is practiced almost exclusively in greenhouses, where
it is possible to keep the earth uniformly moist. But even
there it is advisable to wrap the pot in moss to check

AIR-LAYERING.

evaporation from the soil. Some plants, like Ficus elas-
tica, can be readily rooted by wrapping
them with moss alone, if the atmos-
phere is sufficiently
close. A paper cone
may be used in place of
a pot where the atmos-
phere is not too humid,
as in carnation houses
(Fig. 35)- Pot-layering
is employed not only for J6 Layerinf.pot.
the purpose of multiply-
ing plants, but in order to lower the
heads of "leggy" or scraggly speci-
mens. The pot is inserted at the
required point updn the main stem,
and after roots have formed abundantly
the top may be cut off and potted inde-
pendently, the old stump being dis-
carded.

French have various handy
ff^ devices for facil-

^ itating pot-layer-

/ ing. Fig. 36 &' Layering-cup.

/ shows a layering-pot, provided with

/ a niche in the side to receive the

/ stem, and a

^_J flange behind for

37. Layering-cone. securing it to a
support. The

pot shown in Fig. 33 is a similar de-
vice. Fig. 37 represents a layering-
cone. It is made of zinc or other
metal, usually 4 or 5 inches high, and 39-Laycring-cup.
is composed of two semi-conical wings, which are hinged
on the back and are secured in front, when the instrument
is closed, by means of a hinge-pin. A cord is inserted in

The

LAYERAGE.

40. Compound layering-pot.

one side, with which to hang it on a support. A cup or
pot with a removable side is also used. This is shown
open in Fig. 38 and closed in Fig.
39. An ingenious compound
layering-pot is shown in Fig. 40.
The main stem or trunk of the
plant is carried through the large
opening, and the branches are
taken through the smaller pots
at the side. Kier's layering-boxes
or racks are shown in Figs. 41
and 42. The trays are filled with
earth or moss, and the branches are laid in through the
chinks in the border and are treated in the same manner
as ordinary outdoor layers. These
racks supply a neat and convenient
means of increasing greenhouse
plants which do not readily strike
from cuttings.

It is well to bear in mind that when
layers do not give strong plants, they
can be divided into portions, each
bearing a bit of root, and treated as
ordinary cuttings. This is an im-
portant operation in the case of rare
varieties which are multiplied by
means of soft or green layers, as
some of the large-flowered clematises and new varieties
of grapes. The small, weak plants are handled in a cool
greenhouse or under frames, usually in pots, and they soon
make strong specimens.

From what has now been said of layerage, the reader
will perceive that it may be employed either for the out-
right production of new plants, or as a means of starting
or "striking" plants. In the latter case, the layer plants,
after having been separated from the parent plant, are set
in nu?sery rows and there grown for one season ; and in

41. Kier's layer ing -rack

LAYERING-RACKS.

this way stronger and more shapely plants may be ob-
tained. As a general statement, it may be said that all
bush-like or vine-like plants which do not strike readily
from cuttings, nor produce seeds freely, or of which the
seeds are very slow to germinate, are usually multiplied by
layerage.

43. Kier'-s circular layering-rack

CHAPTER IV.

CUTTAGE.

I. GENERAL REQUIREMENTS OF CUTTINGS.

CUTTINGS, particularly of growing parts, demand a
moist and uniform atmosphere, a porous soil, and some-
times bottom heat.

Devices for Regulating Moisture and Heat. — In order to
secure a uniform and moist atmosphere, various propagat-
ing-frames are in common use. Whatever its construction,
the frame should be sufficiently tight to confine the air
closely ; it should admit light, and allow of ventilation.
The simplest form of propagating-frame is a pot or box
covered with a pane of glass (Fig. 2). To admit of venti-
lation, the glass is tilted at intervals, or two panes may be
used and a space be allowed to remain between them. A
common bell-glass or bell-jar (cloche of the French) makes

one of the best and
handiest propagating-
frames, because it
admits light upon all
sides and is conve-
nient to handle. It
is particularly service
able in the propa-
gation of tropical or
"stove" plants ; and
it is in universal use

44 Hand-glass.

for all difficult and rare subjects which are not propagated

in large numbers. A hand-glass or hand-light (Fig. 44)

(44)

PROPAGATING-FRAMES.

answers the same purpose and accommodates a larger
number of plants. A useful propagating-box for the win-
dow garden or amateur conservatory is shown in Fig. 45.
A box 2 or 3 inches high is
secured, and inside this a
zinc or galvanized iron tray
is set, leaving sufficient
space between it and the
box to admit a pane of
glass upon every side.
These panes form the four
sides of the box, and one
or two panes are laid
across the top. The metal

45. Small propagatmg-box.

tray holds the soil and allows no water to drip upon the
floor. One of the best boxes for general purposes is made
in the form of a simple board box without top or bottom,
and 15 or 18 inches high, the top being covered with two
sashes, one of which raises upon a hinge (Fig. 46). Four
by three feet is a convenient size. An ordinary light hot-
bed frame is sometimes constructed upon the bench of a
greenhouse and covered with common hotbed sash. Prop-
agating-houses are sometimes built with permanent propa-
gating-frames of this character throughout their length, as
shown in Fig. 47. Such permanent frames are mostly used
for conifers, either from cuttings or grafts (usually the latter)

and also for grafts of rhododen-
drons( See Chapters V. and VI.).
In all the above appliances
heat is obtained from the sun or
from the bench-pipes or flues of
a greenhouse. There are vari-
ous contrivances in which the
heat is applied locally, for the
purpose of securing greater or
more uniform heat. One of the simplest and best of these
is the propagating-oven shown in Fig. 48. It is a glass-

Propagating box .

CUTTAGE.

47. Permanent propagating-frames in a greenhouse.

covered box about two feet deep, with a tray of water be-
neath the soil, and which is heated by a lamp. A similar
but somewhat complicated apparatus is illustrated in Figs.
49) 5°> 51- This is an old form of oven, which has been
variously modified by different operators. Fig. 49 shows

a sectional view
of the complete
apparatus. The
box, A A, is
made of wood,
and is usually
about three feet
square. L is a
removable glass
top. B repre-
sents a zinc or
galvanized iron
tray whjch is
filled with earth,
in which seeds

48. Simple propagating-oven.

are sown or pots are plunged. C is a water tray, to
which the water is applied by means of a funnel extending

PROPAGATING-FRAMES.

49. Propagating-ovcn.

through the box. A lamp, D, supplies the heat,
funnel of tin, e e, distrib-
utes the heat evenly.
Holes should be provided
about the bottom of the
box to admit air to the
flame. A modified form
of this device is shown in
Figs. 50 and 51. The
water tray, G, slides in
upon ledges, so that it
can be removed, and the
heat funnel, L D L, slides
in similarly and is made
to surround the flame like a chimney. The front side of

the apparatus is rempva-
ble, and the top of the
frame, K, is made of
metal. The cover for
this apparatus is shown in
Fig. 51. The ends, a a,
are made of wood, with
openings, indicated by
the arrows, to allow of
50. Modified form of Fig. 49. ventilation. The front
and top, g g, are made of glass. The frame-work, c c c,
is made of metal. The cover is hinged on, or held with

pegs, 1 1, Fig. 50.
Chauviere' s
propagating-
oven, a French
apparatus, is
shown in Fig.
52. It is essen-
tially a minia-
ture greenhouse. The sashes are seen at c c, and over
them is a cloth or matting screen (shown at the right).

ST. Cover for Fig. 50.

CU1TAGE.

The sides below the sashes are enclosed, preferably with
glass. The bottom or floor is movable, and it is some-

52. ChauviZre's propagating-oven.

times divided into two or three sections, to allow of the
accommodation of plants of different sizes and require-

53. Lecoq's propagating-oven.

ments. These sections are raised or lowered, and are held
by pegs. At the right is shown a section of floor elevated,
and at the left another section occupying a lower position.
Heat is supplied usually by hot water in the tubes, d d. A
very elaborate circular French device, known as Lecoq's

PROPAGATING DEVICES. 49

propagating-oven, is illustrated in Fig. 53. It is an interest-
ing apparatus, and is worth attention as showing the care
which has been taken to control the conditions of vegetation
and germination. It is too elaborate for common purposes,
and yet for the growing of certain rare or difficult subjects
it might find favor among those who like to experiment ;
and it affords an accurate means of studying plant growth
under control. The apparatus is sold in France for about
$6. All the portion below the glass top, Py P, is made of
earthenware. The base, a a, holds a lamp, d ; e is a water
reservoir, to which water is supplied by means of the fun-
nel, j. A vase or rim, b b, rests upon the base, and upon it
a plate or disc, c c, is fitted. Above this is the glass top, P P.
Air is admitted to the apparatus at i, K K, and between
the vase and plate, as at c on the right. The plate con-
tains two concentric circular grooves, g g and h h. In
these grooves the soil is placed or pots plunged. The heat
circulates in the valleys m and n n n n, and supplies a uni-
form temperature to both sides of the plants.

Barnard's propagating-tank, Fig. 54, is a practicable de-
vice for attachment to a common stove. A similar appa-
ratus may be attached to the pipes of a greenhouse. The
tank consists of a long wooden box made of matched
boards, and put together with paint between the joints to
make it water-tight. The box should be about 3 feet wide
and 10 inches deep, and may be from 10 to 30 feet long, ac-
cording to the space required. In the middle of the box is
a partition, extending nearly the whole length, and on the
inside, on each side, is a ledge or piece of moulding to
support slate slabs to be laid over the entire surface of the
box. The slates are supported by the ledges and by the
central partition, and should be fastened down with cement
to prevent the propagating-sand from falling into the tank.
One slate is left out near the end, next the fire, to enable the
operator to see the water and to keep it at the right level.
On the slates sand is spread, in which the cuttings may be
struck, the sand nearly filling the box. At one end of the

CUTTAGE.

box is placed a common cylinder stove, with smoke-pipe to
the chimney. Inside the stove is an iron pipe, bent in a
spiral. This coil, which is directly in the fire, is connected by

54. Barnard's propagating-tank.

pipes with the tank, one pipe
leading to one side of the
partition and the other to the
opposite side, as shown in the
drawing. If water is placed
in the tank, it will fill the
pipes and form a continuous
circulating system through
the pipes and up one side of
the box past the end of the
partition, and down the other
side. A fire in the stove causes the water to circulate
through the tank and impart to the bed a genial warmth.
There are various tanks designed to rest upon the pipes
in a greenhouse. The principle of their construction is
essentially the same as of those described in previous pages,
— bottom heat, a tray of water, and a bed of soil. Earthen-
ware tanks are commonly employed, but a recent English
device, Fig. 55, is made of zinc. It is about 7 inches deep,
and holds an inch or two of water in the bottom. A tray 5
inches deep sets into the tank. The water is supplied
through a funnel at the base.

Cuttings usually ' ' strike ' ' better when they touch the
side of the pot than when they are wholly surrounded by
soil. This is probably because the earthenware insures
greater uniformity in drainage than the earth, and supplies
air and a mild bottom heat ; and it is possible that the
deflection of the plant food towards the side of the pot,
because of evaporation therefrom, induces better growth

PROPAGATING DEVICES.

55 Zinc propagating-tank.

at that point. Various devices are employed for the pur-
pose of securing these advantages to the best effect. These

are usually
double pots,
in one of
which water
is placed. A
good method
is that rep-
resented in
Figure 56,
which shows
a pot, b,
plugged with
plaster of

Pans at the bottom, placed inside a larger one. The
earth is placed between the two, drainage material occu-
pying the bottom, a, and fine soil the
top, c. Water stands in the inner pot
as high as the dotted line, and feeds
uniformly into the surrounding soil.
The positions of the water and soil
are frequently reversed, but in that
case there is less space available for
cuttings. A double pot, with moisture
supplied in a surrounding cushion of
sphagnum moss, is seen in Fig. i.
Neumann's cutting-pot is shown in
Fig. 57. This contains an inverted pot in the center, a,
designed to supply drainage and to
admit heat into the center of the mass
of soil. A good method of striking
difficult subjects is as follows : Fill a
saucer with moss. Upon this place
an inverted flower-pot. Insert the
57. Ne«man£s ™*tinz- cutting through the hole in the bot-

56. Forsyth's cutting-
pot.

52 CUTTAGE.

torn of the pot, so that it stands in the moss and almost
touches the saucer. Keep the moss moist.

Some kind of protection, commonly combined with bot-
tom heat, is always given cuttings made from the soft and
growing parts. In indoor work, any of the devices named
above may be employed, but a box like that shown in Fig.
46 is one of the most useful for common operations. Or

58. Cutting-bench shaded with lath.

the greenhouse itself may afford sufficient protection, espe-
cially if the cuttings are shaded when first set, to check
evaporation from the plant and soil, and to prevent too
great heat. This shading is usually supplied by whitewash-
ing the glass, or a newspaper may be laid over the cut-
ting-bed for a few days. A greenhouse table or bench
prepared for the growing of cuttings is known as a "cut-
ting-bench." If the cuttings become too dry or too hot,

BOTTOM HEAT FOR CUTTINGS. 53

they will wilt or "flag." A good cutting-bench should
be near the glass, and either exposed to the north or else
capable of being well shaded. A good bench, facing south
and shaded over the glass with a lath screen, is illustrated
in Fig. 58. The details of soils are discussed on the
following page.

In outdoor work, soft cuttings are usually placed in an
ordinary coldframe, and these frames must be shaded.
They may be placed under trees or on the shady side of a
building, or if they are numerous, as in commercial estab-
lishments, a cloth screen should be provided, as shown in
Fig- 7, page 6.

Bottom Heat is always essential to the best success with
cuttings. In outdoor work, this is supplied by the natural
heat of the soil in spring and summer, and it is often inten-
sified by burying hard-wooded cuttings bottom end up for
a time before planting them. This operation of inverting
cuttings is often practiced with grapes, particularly with the
Delaware and others which root with some difficulty. The
cuttings are tied in bundles and buried in a sandy place,
with the tops down, the butts being covered two or three
inches with sand. They may be put in this position in the
fall and allowed to remain until the ground begins to freeze
hard, or they may be buried in spring and allowed to remain
until May or June and then be regularly planted. In out-
door cuttage, the cuttings which are of medium length,
from 6 to 8 inches, derive more bottom heat than the very
long ones, such as were formerly used for the propagation
of the grape. In indoor work, bottom heat is obtained by
means of fermenting manure, or, preferably, by greenhouse
pipes. Cutting-benches should have abundant piping be-
neath, and in the case of many tropical and sub-tropical
species the bottom heat may be intensified by enclosing
the benches below, so that no heat can escape into the
walks. Doors can be placed in the partition alongside
the walk, to serve as ventilators if the heat should become
E

54 CUTTAGE.

too intense. In all cuttings, bottom or root growth should
precede top growth, and this is aided by bottom heat.

Soils. — Soil for all cuttings should be well drained. It
should not be so compact as to hold a great quantity of
water, nor should it be so loose as to dry out very quickly.
It should not " bake " or form a crust on its surface. As a
rule, especially for cuttings made of growing parts, the soil
should not contain fresh vegetable matter, as such material
holds too much water and is often directly injurious to the
cutting, and it is likely to breed the fungi of damping-off.
A coarse, sharp, clean sand is the best material for use
indoors. Very fine sand packs too hard, and should rarely
be used. Some propagators prefer to use fine gravel, com-
posed of particles from an eighth to a fourth of an inch in
diameter, and from which all fine material has been washed.
This answers well for green cuttings ; but a propagating-
frame should be used to check evaporation, and attention
be given to watering, because drainage is so perfect and
the material so quickly permeable that uniformity of treat-
ment is thereby secured. Damping-off is less liable to occur
in such material than in denser soils. The same advantages
are to some extent present in sphagnum moss and cocoanut
fiber, both of which are sometimes used in place of earth.
The "silver sand " used by florists is a very clean and white
sand, which derives its particular advantages from the
almost entire absence of any vegetable matter. But it is
not now considered so essential to successful propagation
as it was formerly, and fully as good material may often
be found in a common sand-bank. Cuttings which strike
strongly and vigorously may be placed in a soil made of
light garden loam with twice its bulk of sand added to it.
All soils used for indoor cuttage should be sifted or screened
before using, to bring them to a uniform texture.

Hard-wood cuttings are commonly planted outdoors in
mellow and light garden loam, well trenched. Only fine
and well-rotted manure should be applied to the cutting-

FORMATION OF ROOTS ON CUTTINGS. 55

bed, and it should be well mixed with the soil. In most
cases, a well-drained soil gives best results, but some cut-
tings root and grow well in wet soils, or even in standing
water, as poplars, willows, some of the dogwoods, plane-
tree, and others.

The Formation of Roots. — As a rule, roots arise most
readily from a joint, and it is, therefore, a common
practice to cut off the base of the cutting just be-
low a bud, as shown in the grape cutting, Fig. 59.
Sometimes the cutting is severed at its point of
attachment to the parent branch, and a small por-
tion, or "heel," of that branch is allowed to re-
main on the cutting. This heel may be nothing
more than the curved and hardened base of the
cutting at its point of attachment, as in the cornus
cutting, Fig. 60. Sometimes an entire section of
the parent branch is remo ved with the cutting, as
in the "mallet" cuttings of grapes, Fig. 61. Of
course, comparatively few heel or mallet cuttings
can be made from a plant, as only one cutting is
obtained from a branch, and it is advisable, there-
fore, to ' ' cut to buds ' ' rather than to ' ' cut to
heels;" yet there are many plants which demand
a heel, if the most satisfactory results are to be
obtained. The requirements of the different spe-
cies in this regard can be learned only by expe-
rience , but it may be said that in general the
hardest or closest wooded plants require a heel
or a joint at the base. Willows, currants, bass- 5<? Grape
woods, and others with like soft wood, emit roots cutting(xl/2}
readily between the buds, yet even in these cases propa-
gators generally cut to buds.

Wounds upon plants begin to heal by the formation of
loose, cellular matter which gives rise to a mass of tissue
known as a callus. This tissue eventually covers the entire
wound, if complete healing results. As a rule, the first
apoarent change in a cutting is the formation of a callus

56 CUTTAGE.

upon the lower end, and it is commonly supposed that
this process must be well progressed before roots can form.

But roots do not arise
from the callus itself, but
from the internal tissue,
and in many plants they
appear to bear no relation
to the callus in position.
In willows, for instance,
roots arise from the bark
at some distance from the
callus. Yet, as a matter
of practice, best results
are obtained from cal-
lused cuttings, particu-
larly if the cuttings are
made from mature wood,
but this is probably due
>to the fact that consider-
able time is required for
the formation of the ad-
ventitious buds which
give rise to the roots,
not to any connection
between the callusing
and rooting processes
themselves.

Hard-wood cuttings
give better results when
kept dormant for some
time after they are cut.
They are usually made in
the fall, and stored dur

60. Heel cutting of cornus (xH). ing the wmter m gand

sawdust or moss in a cool cellar, or buried in a sandy and
well-drained place. This, at least, is the practice with
hard-wood cuttings of deciduous plants, like currants,

CALLUSING OF CUTTINGS. 57

gooseberries, grapes, and many ornamental trees and
shrubs. Hard -wood evergreen cuttings, when taken in
the fall, are usually set at once, as their foliage
will not allow them to be buried with safety;
but in this case, the cuttings are kept "quiet"
or dormant for a time, to allow callusing to
progress. If cuttings are buried so deep that
they cannot sprout, callusing may be hastened
by placing them in a mild temperature. Sin-
gle-eye grape cuttings are sometimes packed
between layers of sand in a barrel, and the
barrel is set under a forcing-house bench
where the temperature is about 50°. Eight or
ten inches of sand is usually placed over the
top layer. In this manner, cuttings which
have been obtained in winter or early spring
may be callused before planting time.

It is a singular fact that the lower end oi
the cutting, as it stood upon the parent plant,
produces roots, and the upper end produces
leaves and shoots, even if the cutting is in-
verted. And if the cutting is divided into
several parts, each part will still exhibit this
same differentiation of function. This is true
even of root cuttings, and of other cuttings
which possess no buds. The reasons for this
localization of function are not clearly under-
stood, although the phenomenon has often 61, Mallet
been the subject of study. Upon this fact '*"'**£
depends the hastening of the rooting process gra *
in inverted cuttings by the direct application of heat to the
bottoms, and it likewise indicates that care must be taken
to plant cuttings in approximately their natural direction
if straight and handsome plants are desired. This remark
applies particularly to horse-radish "sets," for if these are
placed wrong end up (even though they are root cuttings),
the resulting root will be very crooked.

58 CUTTAGE.

The particular method of making the cutting, and the
treatment to which it should be subjected, must be deter-
mined for each species or genus. Some plants, as many
maples, can be propagated from wood two or three years
old, but in most cases the wood of the previous or present
season's growth is required. Nearly all soft and loose-
wooded plants grow readily from hard-wood cuttings,
while those with dense wood are generally multiplied more
easily from soft or growing wood. Some plants, as oaks
and nut-tress, are propagated from cuttings of any descrip-
tion only with great difficulty, although the hickories grow
rather freely from soft tip-cuttings of roots. It is probable,
however, that all plants can be multiplied by cuttings if
properly treated. It often happens that one or two species
of a closely defined genus will propagate readily from
cuttings while the other species will not, so that the propa-
gator comes to learn by experience that different treatment
is profitable for very closely related plants. For instance,
most of the viburnums are propagated from layers in
commercial establishments, but V. plicatum (properly Vi-
burnum tomentosum] is grown extensively from cuttings.

2. THE VARIOUS KINDS OF CUTTINGS.

Cuttings are made from all parts of the plant. In its
lowest terms, cuttage is a division of the plant itself into
two or more nearly equal parts, as in the division of crowns
of rhubarb, dicentra, and most other plants which tend to
form broad masses or stools. This species of cuttage is
at times indistinguishable from separation, as in the divid-
ing of lily bulbs (page 27), and at other times it is essen-
tially the same as layerage, as in the dividing of stools
which have arisen from suckers or layers. This breaking
or cutting up of the plants into two or more large parts
which are already rooted is technically known as Division,
and is discussed in Chapter II. It is only necessary, in
dividing plants, to see that one or more buds or shoots

CUTTINGS OF TUBERS. 59

remain upon the portions, and these portions are then
treated in the same manner as independent mature plants
are, or sometimes, when the divisions are small and weak,
they may be handled for a time in a frame or forcing-
house in the same manner as ordinary cuttings.

Cuttings proper may be divided into four general
classes, with respect to the part of the plant from which
they are made : i, of tubers; 2, of roots and rootstocks ;
3, of stems ; 4, of leaves. All these forms of cuttings
reproduce the given variety with the same degree of cer-
tainty that grafts or buds do.

Tuber Cuttings. — Tubers are thickened portions of
either roots or stems, and tuber cuttings, therefore, fall
logically under those divisions ; but they are so unlike
ordinary cuttings in form that a separate classification is
desirable. Tubers are stored with starch, which is de-
signed to support or supply the plant in time of need.
Tuber cuttings are, therefore, able to support themselves
for a time if they are placed in conditions suited to their
vegetation. Roots rarely arise from the tubers themselves,
but from the base of the young shoots which spring from
them. This fact is familiarly illustrated in the cuttings of
Irish and sweet potatoes. The young sprouts can be
removed and planted separately, and others will arise
from the tuber to take their places. This practice is em-
ployed sometimes with new or scarce varieties of the Irish
potato, and three or four crops of rooted sprouts can be
obtained from one tuber The tuber is cut in two length-
wise, and is then laid in damp moss or loose earth with the
cut surface down, and as soon as the sprouts throw out
roots sufficient to maintain them they are severed and
potted off. Sweet potatoes are nearly always propagated
in this manner.

In making tuber cuttings, at least one eye or bud is
left to each piece, if eyes are present ; but in root-tubers,
like the sweet potato, there are no buds, and it is only
necessary to leave upon each portion a piece of the epider-

6O CUTTAGE.

mis, from which adventitious buds may develop. The
pseudo-bulbs of some orchids are treated in this manner,
or the whole bulb is sometimes planted. A shoot, usually
termed an off-shoot, arises from each pseudo-bulb or each
piece of it, and this is potted off as an independent plant.
(See Orchids, in Chapter VI.)

Cuttings made from the ordinary stems of some tuber-
iferous plants will produce tubers instead of plants. This
is the case with the potato. The stem cutting produces
a small tuber near its lower extremity, or sometimes in
the axil of a leaf above ground, and this tuber must be
planted to secure a new plant. Leaf cuttings of some
tuberiferous or bulbiferous plants produce little tubers or
bulbs in the same way (see the gloxinia, Fig. 81).
Hyacinth leaves, inserted in sand in a frame, will soon
produce little bulblets at their base, and these can be re-
moved and planted in the same manner as the bulbels
described in Chapter II.

Many tubers or tuber-like portions, which possess a
very moist or soft interior and a hard or close covering,
vegetate more satisfactorily if allowed to dry for a time

before planting. The
pseudo - bulbs of orchids,
crowns of pine-apples, and
cuttings of cactuses are
examples. Portions of

62. Root cutting of blackberry (x}6). , ,

cactuses and pine-apples

are sometimes allowed to lie in the sun from two to four
weeks before planting. This treatment dissipates the
excessive moisture, and induces the formation of adven-
titious buds.

Root Cuttings. — Many plants can be multiplied with
ease by means of short cuttings of the roots, particularly
all species which possess a natural tendency to "sucker"
or send up sprouts from the root. All rootstocks or
underground stems can be made into cuttings, as ex-
plained under Division, in Chapter II.; but true root cut-

CUTTINGS OF ROOTS.

*/ /

tings possess no buds whatever, the buds developing after
the cutting is planted. Roots are cut into pieces from i to

3 inches long, and
are planted hori-
zontally in soil or
moss. These cut-
tings thrive best
with bottom heat,
but blackberries
and some other
plants grow fairly
Well with ordi-
nary outdoor
treatment. A

root cutting of
the blackberry is
shown in Fig. 62.
(See Blackberry,

63 Root cutting of dracezna (x%). in Chapter VI.)

A growing dra-

caena root cutting is exhibited in Fig. 63. The cuttings
of this plant are handled in a propagating-frame or on a
cutting-bench in a warm greenhouse. The bouvardias and
many other plants are grown in the same manner. Many
of the fruit trees, as peach, cherry, apple and pear, can be
grown readily from these short root cuttings in a frame.
Among kitchen garden plants, the horse-radish is the
most familiar example of propagation by root cuttings.
The small side roots, a fourth inch or so in diameter, are
removed when the horse-radish is dug in fall or spring,
and are cut into 4 to 6-inch lengths, as seen in Fig. 64.
These cuttings are known as "sets" among gardeners.
(See horse-radish, Chapter VI.) When the crowns of
horse-radish are cut and used for propagation, the opera-
tion falls strictly under division, from the fact that buds or
eyes are present ; and the same remark applies to rhubarb,

62 CUTTAGE.

which, however, is not propagated by true root cuttings.

Whilst root cuttings perpetuate the variety, they do not

always transmit variegations. For example, the variegated

64. Horse-radish root cuttings

prickly comfrey does not always come true from root cut-
tings. If the top is a graft, of course the root cutting will
reproduce the stock, unless the given roots may have
started from the cion. Thus the roots of dwarf pears may
be either quince from the stock, or pear from the cion.

Stem Cuttings. — Cuttings of the stem divide them-
selves into two general classes : those known as cuttings of
the ripe, mature or hard wood, and cuttings of the green,
immature or soft wood. The two classes run into each
other, and no hard and fast line can be drawn between
them.

Hard-wood cuttings are made at any time from late
summer to spring. It is advisable to make them in the
fall, in order to allow them to callus before the planting
season, and to forestall injury which might result to the
parent plant from a severe winter. They may be taken as
early as August, or as soon as the wood is mature, and
be stripped of leaves. Callusing can then take place in
time to allow of fall planting. Or, the cuttings taken in
early fall may be planter3 immediately, and be allowed to
callus where they stand. All fall cutting-beds should be
mulched, to prevent the heaving of the cuttings. As a
rule, however, hard-wood cuttings are buried on a sandy

LENGTHS OF CUTTINGS. 63

knoll or are stored in moss, sand or sawdust in a cellar
until spring. (See page 56.)

There is no general rule to govern the length of
hard-wood cuttings. Most propagators prefer to
make them 6 to 10 inches long, as this is a conve-
nient length to handle, but the shorter length is
preferable. Two buds are always to be taken,
one bud or one pair at the top and one at the
bottom, but in "short-jointed" plants more are
obtained. Sometimes all but the top buds are re-
moved to prevent the starting of shoots or sprouts
from below the soil. Grape cuttings are now
commonly cut to two or three buds (Fig. 59), two
being the favorite number for most varieties. (See
grape, Chapter VI.) Currant and gooseberry cut-
tings (Fig. 65) usually bear from 6 to 10 buds.
All long hard-wood cuttings are set perpendicu-
larly, or nearly so, and only one or two buds are
allowed to stand above the surface.

When the stock is rare, cuttings are made of
single eyes or buds. This is particularly the case
with the grape (see Chapter VI.), and currants and
many other plants are occasionally grown in the
same manner. Fig. 66 shows a single-eye grape
cutting. Such cuttings, whatever the species, are
commonly started under glass with bottom heat,
either upon a cutting-bench or in a hotbed, being
planted an inch or so deep in a horizontal position,
with the bud up. The soil should be kept uni-
formly moist, and when the leaves appear the
plants should be frequently sprinkled. In from 30
to 40 days the plants are ready to pot off. Single-
eye cuttings are usually started about three or four
months before the season is fit for outdoor plant- 45- Cur-
Ing, or about February in the northern states.
The most advisable method of treatment varies
with the season and locality, as well as with the species or

64 CUTTAGE.

variety. It is well known, for instance, that the Delaware
grape can be propagated more easily in some regions than
in others. A common style of single-eye cutting is made

with the eye close
to the top end, and
a naked base of an
inch or two. This

66. Single-eye graPe cuttin? (x/3).

soil perpendicularly, with the eye just above the surface.
It is much used for a variety of plants.

Many coniferous plants are increased by cuttings on a
large scale, especially retinosporas, arbor-vitaes, and the
like. Cuttings are made of the mature wood, which is
planted at once (in autumn) in sand under cover, usually
in a cool greenhouse (Fig. 67). Most of the species root
slowly, and they often remain in the original flats or
benches a year, but their treatment is usually simple. In
some cases junipers, yews and Cryptomeria Japonica will
not make roots for nearly twelve months, keeping in good
foliage, however, and ultimately giving good plants. They
are always grown in shaded houses or frames, and some-
times in inside propagating-frames (Fig. 47). (For more
explicit directions, see Thuya and Reti-
nospora, in Chapter VI.)

Most remarkable instances of prop-
agation by means of portions of stems
are on record. Chips from a tree
trunk have been known to produce
plants, and the olive is readily in-
creased by knots or excrescences
formed upon the trunks of old trees.
These excrescences occur in many
plants, and are known as knaurs. *?. Spru
They are often abundant about the base of large plane-
trees, but they are not often used for purposes of propa-
gation. Whole trunks will sometimes grow after having
been cut for many months, especially of such plants as

CUTTINGS OF GROWING WOOD.

those made from the

cactuses, many euphorbias and yuccas. Sections of these
spongy trunks will grow, also. Truncheons of cycad
trunks may also give rise to plants (see Chapter VI.).
Even saw-logs of our common trees, as elm and ash, will
sprout while in the "boom," or water.

Green-wood cuttings are more commonly employed than
those from the mature wood, as they "strike" more
quickly, they can be handled under glass in the winter, and
more species can be propagated by them than by hard-wood
cuttings. "Slips" are green-wooded cuttings, but the term
is often restricted to designate those which are made by
pulling or "slipping" off a small side-shoot, and it is com-
monly applied to the multiplication of plants in window-
gardens. All soft-wooded plants and many ornamental
shrubs are increased by green cuttings. There are two gen-
eral classes of green-wood cuttings : those made from the
soft and still growing wood ; and
nearly ripened green wood,
as in Azalea Indica, oleander
ficus, etc. House plants, as
geraniums, coleuses, carna-
tions, fuchsias, and the like,
are grown from the soft
young wood, and many
harder- wooded plants are
grown in the same way. Sometimes
true hard wood is used, as in
camellia.

In making cuttings from soft and
growing shoots, the first thing to learn
is the proper texture or age of shoot.
A very soft and flabby cutting does
not grow readily, or if it does it is
particularly liable to damp-off, and it
usually makes a weak plant. Too old wood is slow to
root, makes a poor, stunted plant, and is handled with diffi-
culty in many species. The ordinary test for beginners

6S-

Tough and brittle

COTTAGE.

is the manner in which the shoot breaks. If, upon being
bent, the shoot snaps off squarely so as to hang together

with only a bit of
bark, as in the upper
break in Fig. 68, it
is in the proper con-
dition for cuttings ;
but if it bends or
simply crushes, as in
•the lower portion of
the figure, it is either
too old or too young

69. Soft cuttings (x/3) for good results

The tips of the shoots of soft-wooded plants are usually
employed, and all or a portion
of the leaves are allowed to
remain. The cuttings are in-
serted in sharp sand to a suffi-
cient depth to hold them in
place, and the atmosphere and
soil must be kept moist to pre-
vent wilting or
"flagging." The
cuttings should

also be shaded for the first week or two. It
is a common practice to cover newly set cut-
tings with newspapers during the heat of the
day. A propagating-frame is often employed.
Soft cuttings are commonly cut below a bud
or cut to a heel, but this is unnecessary in
easily rooted plants like geranium, coleus,
heliotrope, etc. Fig. 69 shows an oleander
.. cutting at a, a carnation at b. and a geranium

•71. One style of

chrysanthe- at c. A coleus cutting is illustrated in Fig. 70.
(x*H) CUttmg Many growers prefer to make a larger cutting
of some firm-wooded plants, like chrysanthe-
mums, as shown in Fig. 71.

70. Coleus cutting

CUTfltfGS OF GROWING

Sometimes the growth is so short or the stock so scarce
that the cutting cannot be made long enough to hold itsell
in the soil. In such case a toothpick or splinter is
tied to the cutting to hold it erect, as in the cactus
cutting, Fig. 72, or the geranium cutting, Fig. 73.
In the window garden, soft cuttings may be started
in a deep plate which is filled half or two-thirds
full of sand and is then filled to the brim with
water, and not shaded ; this method, practiced on
a larger scale, is sometimes useful during the hot
summer months. If bottom heat is desired, the
plate may be set upon the back part of the kitchen
stove. Oleanders usually root best when mature
shoots are placed in bottles of water. Refractory
subjects may be inserted through the hole in the
bottom of an inverted flower-pot, as explained on
pages 51 and 5*.

Cuttings from the nearly cutting
mature green wood are em- Jf/f n //*
ployed for hard-wooded UM).
trees and shrubs, as diervillas (wei-
gela), roses, hydrangeas, lilacs, etc.
They are cut in essentially the same
manner as the hard-wood cuttings
described on page 55. They are often
taken in summer, when the buds have
developed and the wood has about
attained its growth. They are cut to
two to four or five buds, and are
planted an inch or two deep in shaded
frames. They are kept close for
some days after setting, and the tops
are sprinkled frequently. Care must
be taken not to set them too deep ;
they are rarely put in over an inch, if

7J. Cutting held by
toothpick

the cutting is six or seven inches long.

"June-struck cuttings" are sometimes advantageously

CUTTAGE.

made ; here the young shoots of hardy shrubs are taken,
when about 2 to 3 inches long, the leaves partly re-
moved, and they are planted under
glass. Several weeks are required for
rooting, but good plants are obtained,
which, when wintered in a coldframe,
can be planted out in beds the next
spring. Great care must be given
to shading and watering. Hydrangea
paniculata var. grandiflora and Akebia
quinata are examples ; or any deutzia
or more easily
handled plant
of which stock
is scarce may
be cited.

Part of the
leaves are re-
moved, as a
rule, before
these firm-
wooded cuttings are set, as shown
in the rose cutting, Fig. 74, and
the hydrangea cutting, Fig. 75.
This is not essential, however, but
it lessens evaporation and the ten-
dency to " flag " or wilt. In most
species the top can be cut off the
cutting, as seen in Figs. 60 and
75, but in other cases it seriously
injures the cutting. Weigelas are
likely to suffer from such behead-
ing ; an unusually large callus 75- Hydrangea cuttin
forms at the bottom, but the leaves shrivel and die.
This frequently occurs in what some nurserymen call " end
growers," among which may be mentioned weigelas (prop-
erly diervillas), the shrubby altheas, Cercis Japonica, and

74. Rose cutting (

CUTTINGS OF RIPENING WOOD.

such spireas as 61 crat&gifolia, S. rotundifolia var. albat

and 6". Cantonensis

( S. Reevesii of the

trade), var. robusta.

The reader must not

suppose, however, that

all rose cuttings are

made after the fashion

of Fig. 74, although

that is a popular Style. /I 76- Single-joint rose

Tea roses, and other « ***** (x 25)'

forced kinds, are very

largely propagated from softer wood cut to a single eye,

with most or all of the leaf left on (Fig. 76).

These firm-wood cuttings, about two inches long, are
often made in the winter from forced plants. Cuttings
taken in February, in the north, will be ready to transfer
to borders or nursery beds when spring opens. Stout,
well-rooted stock-plants are used from which to obtain
the cuttings, and they are cut back when taken to the
house in the fall, in order to induce a good growth. Many

77. Young plants from a leaf of Bryophyllum calycinum

CUTTAGE.

hardy shrubs can be easily propagated in this way when
the work is difficult or unhandy in the open air: e. g,,

78. Begonia leaf cutting (x%).

Spircea Cantonensis (S. Reevesii of the catalogues), and
.SI, Van Houttei, the roses and the like. Stock plants of
the soft species, like coleus, lantanas and geraniums, are
obtained in like manner.

Leaf Cuttings. — Many thick and heavy leaves may be
used as cuttings. Leaf cuttings are most commonly em-
ployed in the showy-leaved begonias, in succulents, and
in gloxinias, but many plants
can be propagated by them.
Even the cabbage can be
made to grow from
leaf cuttings. The
bryophyllum is one
of the best plants
for showing the pos-
sibilities of propaga-
tion by leaves. If ?9 An vpright begonia leaf cutting
one of the thick
leaves is laid upon moss or sand in a moist atmosphere,
a young plant will start from nearly every pronounced
angle in the margin (Fig. 77). In Rex begonias, also, the

CUTTINGS OF LEAVES.

whole leaf may be used, as shown in Fig. 78. It is sim-
ply laid upon moist sand in a frame and held down by
splinters thrust through the
ribs. The wound made by
the peg induces the forma-
tion of roots, and a young
plant arises. A half dozen
or more plants can be ob-
tained from one leaf. Some
operators cut off the ribs,
instead of wounding them
with a prick. Many gar-
deners prefer to divide the
leaf into two nearly equal
parts, and then set each
part, or the better one. up-
right in the soil, the severed
edge being covered. This
is shown in Fig. 79. Fewer
plants — often only one — are
obtained in this manner, but
they are strong.

When stock is scarce the begonia leaf may be cut into
several fan-shaped pieces. The whole leaf may be divided
into as many triangular portions as can be secured with a
portion of the petiole, a strong rib, or a vein attached at the
base ; these pieces, inserted and treated like coleus cuttings,
will root and make good plants within a reasonable time,
say six months. This form of cutting should be two to
three inches long by an inch or inch and one-half wide.
Ordinarily, in this style of leaf cutting, the petiole or stalk is
cut off close to the leaf and the lower third or fourth of the
leaf is then cut off by a nearly straight cut across the leaf.
This somewhat triangular base is then cut into as many
wedge-shaped pieces as there are ribs in the leaf, each rib
forming the center of a cutting. The point of each cutting
should contain a portion of the petiole. The points of these

CUTTAGE.

triangular portions are inserted in the soil a half inch or so,
the cutting standing erect or nearly so. Roots form at the
base or point, and a young plant springs from the same
point (Fig. 80).

The gloxinia and others of its kin propagate by leaves,
but instead of a young\ plant arising directly from the cut-
ting, a little tuber forms upon the free end of the petiole
(Fig. 81), and this tuber is dried off and finally planted the
same as a mature tuber. Most gardeners prefer to cut the
leaf-stalk shorter than shown in the cut.

Leaf cuttings are handled in the same manner as soft
stem-cuttings, so far as temperature and moisture are con-
cerned. There are comparatively few species in which they
form the most available means of multiplication. In some
cases, variegation will not be reproduced by the rooted leaf.
This is true in the ivy-leaved geranium L' Elegante ; a good
plant can be obtained, but it reverts to the plain-leaved type,

Leaf cutting of gloxinia

CHAPTER V.

GRAFTAGE.

I. GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS.

GRAFTAGE is rarely employed for the propagation of the
species itself, as seedage and cuttage are more expeditious
and cheaper. Its chief use is to perpetuate a variety which
does not reproduce itself from seeds, and which cannot be
economically grown from cuttings. Graftage is always a
secondary operation. That is, the root or stock must first
be grown from seeds, layers or cuttings, and this stock is
then grafted or budded to the desired variety. Graftage is
employed in the propagation of every kind of tree fruits in
America, and of very many ornamental trees and shrubs,
and it is indispensable to the nursery business. It therefore
needs to be discussed in considerable detail.

All the named varieties of tree fruits and many of those
of ornamental trees and shrubs are perpetuated by means of
graftage. In some species, which present no marked or
named varieties, however, propagation by seeds or cuttings
is for various reasons so difficult or uncertain that recourse
must be had to graftage. This is particularly true in many
of the firs and spruces, which do not produce seeds to any
extent in cultivation. In other cases, graftage is performed
for the purpose of producing some radical change in the
character or habit of the plant, as in the dwarfing of pears
by grafting them upon the quince, and of apples by grafting
on the Paradise stock, the elevation of weeping tops by
working them upon upright trunks, and the acceleration of
fruit-bearing by setting cions in old plants. It is sometimes

(73)

74 GRAFTAGE.

employed to aid the healing of wounds or to repair and fill
out broken tops. And it has been used to make infertile
plants fertile, by grafting in the missing sex in dioecious
trees, or a variety with more potent pollen, ^s practiced in
some of the native plums. All these^fseS of graftage fall
under three heads: i. To perpetuate a variety. 2. To in-
crease the ease and speed of multiplication. 3. To produce
some radical change in nature or habit of cion or stock.
Mutual Influence of Stock and Cion. — The first two divi-
sions in the above paragraph need no elaboration here, but
the third is moot ground, and demands subdivision. These
secondary results of grafting, as they may be called, or
reciprocal influences of stock and cion, fall readily under
the following heads (which were outlined by the writer in
Garden and Forest for February 26, 1890):

1. Graftage may modify the stature of the plant. It is
the commonest means of dwarfing plants. We graft the
pear upon the quince and the apple upon the Paradise
apple. This dwarfing usually augments proportionate fruit-
fulness. (For further discussion of dwarfing, see page 147. )

2. Graftage may be made the means of adapting plants
to adverse soils. Illustrations are numerous. Many varie-
ties of plums, when worked on the peach, thrive in light
soils, where plums on their own roots are uncertain. Con-
versely, some peaches can be adapted to heavy soils by
working on the plum. If dwarf pears are desired on light
soils, where the quince does not thrive, recourse is had to
grafting on the mountain ash, or some of its allies. In some
chalky districts of England the peach is worked on the
almond. Some plums can be grown on uncongenial loose
soils by working them on the Beach plum. Professor Budd
states, in Garden and Forest for February 12, 1890, that the
Gros Pomier apple is particularly adapted to sandy land
and the Tetofsky to low prairie land, and that these stocks
are often selected to overcome adversities of soil. Such
instances are frequent, and should demand greater attention
from cultivators.

INFLUENCE OF CION AND STOCK. 75

3. Graftage may be made the means of adapting plants
to adverse climate. This may be brought about by either
or both of two causes : (a) The early maturation of the
stock, causing the cion to ripen better. The Oldenburgh
apple is a favorite stock in severe climates for this reason.
The Siberian crab often has the same influence, although
its use may be open to objection, (d) The mechanical
effect of the union, impeding the passage of sap and
causing the cion to mature or ripen early. This fact has
been observed in many cases, notably in some instances
of apples upon improved crabs, and yet the union is perfect
enough, nevertheless, to maintain the plant in a profitable
condition for years. There are some apparent adaptations
to climate, however, which are not explained by either of
the above hypotheses.

4. Graftage may correct a poor habit. All propaga-
tors are aware of this fact. The Canada Red apple is
usually top-worked to overcome its weak and straggling
habit. The Winter Nelis pear is a familiar example.

5. Graftage is often the means of accelerating fruitful-
ness : **. e., plants are made to bear at an earlier age.
Those who test new orchard fruits are familiar with this
fact. Cions from young trees bear sooner if set in old
trees than when set in young ones. This result may some-
times be due to the same causes which abbreviate the vigor
of plants, as already outlined (see \ 3, above). Checking
growth induces fruitfulness.

6. Graftage often modifies the season of ripening' of
fruit. This is brought about by different habits of matur-
ity of growth in the stock and cion. An experiment with
Winter Nelis pear showed that fruit kept longer when
grown upon Bloodgood stocks than when grown upon
Flemish Beauty stocks. The latter stocks in this case
evidently completed their growth sooner than the others.
Twenty Ounce apple has been known to ripen in advance
of its season by being worked upon Early Harvest. Mr.
Augur cites an instance in which the Roxbury Russet,

76 GRAFTAGE.

grafted upon the Golden Sweet, which is early in ripen-
ing, was modified both in flavor and keeping qualities.
"Keeping qualities" is but another expression for "sea-
son of ripening." These influences are frequent; in fact,
they are probably much commoner than we are aware.

7. Graftage often augments fruitfulness, largely for the
same reasons as discussed in \ 3. There are some anom-
alous instances of increase of fruitfulness which are diffi-
cult of explanation : e. g., some citrus fruits are more
productive when grafted upon Cilrus (or sEgle} trifoliata
than upon their own roots.

8. Graftage often delays the degeneration of varieties.
In various ornamental plants this influence is marked, as
compared with plants from cuttings. It is recorded par-
ticularly in certain roses and camellias.

9. Graftage sometimes increases the size of fruit. The
best illustrations of this fact are found in certain pears
when grown upon the quince ; the fruit is often larger
than from standard trees.

10. Graftage may result in a modification of color of
foliage, flowers or fruit. Assumed influences of this char-
acter are frequently recorded, but it is not always possible
to determine how much of the modification may be due to
soil, climate and treatment. Prunus Pissardii has been
seen to give much more highly colored foliage when
grafted upon Prunus Americana than upon P. domestic a.
The cions came from the same tree, and the grafted trees
stood in the same row. Any acceleration in ripening of
fruit (as indicated in \ 5) is apt to cause high color, but
the intensification of color in Prunus Pissardii was not
due to such cause, as the grafts were more vigorous upon
P. Americana.

IT. Graftage may influence the flavor of fruit. There
can be no question but that apples often derive acridity
from the stock when worked upon the wild crab or upon
the Siberian crab. It is said that the Angouleme and
some other pears are improved in flavor when grown upon

INFLUENCE OF CION AND STOCK. 77

the quince. Downing asserts that some varieties "are
considerably improved in flavor" by working upon quince.
Similar results may occur in the dwarfing of apples.

A favorite illustration in support of the reciprocal influ-
ences of stock and cion is the fact of transfer of color or
variegation by grafting. Darwin called attention to this
phenomenon, and used the term "graft-hybrid" to desig-
nate similar mongrel offspring of. certain unions. But this
class of phenomena seems to follow inoculation rather
than grafting per se. The transferable nature of variega-
tion is well known in certain species, but it is entirely
inexplicable in the present state of our knowledge ; it
seems certain, however, that it does not merit attention
under a discussion of grafting. So long ago as 1727 vari-
egation was designated by Bradley a "distemper," which
"may be communicated to every plant of the same tribe
by inoculating only a single bud." In our own day, Morren
has called it the "contagion of variegation."

The above outline illustrates the fact that the results
of graftage are profoundly modified by conditions. Ad-
verse conditions must give unsatisfactory results, and may
lead to a premature denunciation of the whole system of
propagation upon the roots of other plants. But, on the
other hand, proper conditions and good execution afford
abundant and positive proof that graftage is essential to
best success in many departments of horticulture.

Limits of Graftage.— Probably all exogenous plants —
those which possess a distinct bark and pith — can be
grafted. Plants must be more or less closely related to each
other to allow of successful graftage of the one upon the
other. What the affinities are in any case can be known
only by experiment. As a rule, plants of close botanical
relationship, especially those of the same genus, graft upon
each other with more or less ease ; yet this relationship is
by no means a safe guide. A plant will often thrive better
upon a species of another genus than upon a congener.
The pear, for instance, does better .upon many thorns than

78 GRAFTAGE.

upon the apple. Sometimes plants of very distinct genera
unite readily. Thus among cacti, the leafless epiphyllum
grows remarkably well upon the leaf-bearing pereskia. It
should be borne in mind that union of tissues is not a proof
of affinity. Affinity can be measured only by the thrift,
healthfulness and longevity of the cion. The bean has been
known to make a union with the chrysanthemum, but it
almost immediately died. Soft tissues, in particular, often
combine in plants which possess no affinity whatever, as we
commonly understand the term. Neither does affinity refer
to relative sizes or rates of growth of stock and cion,
although the term is sometimes used in this sense. It can-
not be said that some varieties of pear lack affinity for the
quince, and yet the pear cion grows much larger than the
stock. In fact, it is just this difference in size and rate of
growth which constitutes the value of the quince root for
dwarfing the pear. When there is a marked difference in
rate of growth between the stock and cion, an enlargement
will occur in the course of time, either above or below the
union. If this occurs upon the stem, it makes an unsightly
tree. If the cion greatly outgrows the stock a weak tree
is the result.

General Methods.— Graftage can be performed at almost
any time of the year, but the practice must be greatly varied
to suit the season and other conditions. The one essential
point is to make sure that the cambium layers, lying
between the bark and wood, meet as nearly as possible
in the cion and stock. This cambium is always present in
live parts, forming woody substance from its inner surface
and bark from its outer surface. During the season of
greatest growth it usually occurs as a soft, mucilaginous
and more or less unorganized substance, and in this stage it
most readily repairs and unites wounded surfaces. And for
this reason the grafting and budding of old trees are usually
performed in the spring. Later in the season, the cambium
becomes firmer and more differentiated, and union of woody
parts is more uncertain. It is also necessary to cover the

KINDS OF GRAFTS. 79

wounds in order to check evaporation from the tissues. In
outdoor work wax is commonly used for all species of
graftage which wound the wood itself, but in budding, the
loosened bark, bound down securely by a bandage, affords
sufficient protection. It is commonly supposed that an
ordinary cleft-graft cannot live if the bark of the stock
immediately adjoining it is seriously wounded, but the
bark really serves little purpose beyond protection of the
tissues beneath. A cion will grow when the bark is almost
entirely removed from the stub, if some adequate protec-
tion can be given which will not interfere with the forma-
tion of new bark. The cion must always possess at least
one good bud. In most cases, only buds which are mature
or nearly so are used, but in the grafting of herbs very
young buds may be employed. These simple requirements
can be satisfied in an almost innumerable variety of ways.
The cion or bud may be inserted in the root, crown, trunk,
or any of the branches ; it may be simply set under the
bark, or inserted into the wood itself in almost any fash-
ion ; and the operation may be performed either upon
growing or dormant plants at any season. But in prac-
tice there are comparatively few methods which are suffi-
ciently simple and expeditious to admit of indiscriminate
use ; the operator must be able to choose the particular
method which is best adapted to the case in hand.

Classification of Graftage. — There are three general
divisions or kinds of graftage, between which, however,
there are no decisive lines of separation : i. Bud-grafting,
or budding, in which a single bud is inserted upon the
surface of the wood of the stock. 2. Cion-grafting, or
grafting proper, in which a detached twig, bearing one or
more buds, is inserted into or upon the stock. 3. Inarch-
ing, or grafting by approach, in which the cion remains
attached to the parent plant until union takes place. This
last is so much like grafting proper, and is so little used,
that it is discussed under the head of grafting in the suc-
ceeding parts ol this chapter. Each of these divisions

80 GRAFTAGE.

can .be almost endlessly varied and sub-divided, but in
this discussion only the leading practices can be detailed.
The following enumeration, after Baltet, will give a fair
idea of the kinds of grafting which have been employed
under distinct names :

/. Bud- Graf ting, or Budding.

i. — Grafting with shield-buds.
,<•> Bud-grafting under the bark, or by inoculation.
" ordinary method.
" with across-shaped incision.

" the incision reversed,
by veneering.

Bud-grafting, the combined or double method.
2. — Flute-grafting.

" common method.
" " with strips of bark.

2. Cion- Grafting, or Grafting proper.

i. TT-Si de-grafting under the bark.

twith a simple branch,
with a heeled branch,
i • " " in the alburnum.
& " " with a straight cleft,
with an oblique cleft.
2. — Crown-grafting.
f Ordinary method.
'.> Improved method.
3. — Grafting de precision.

Veneering, common method,
in crown-grafting,
with strips of bark.
Crown-grafting by inlaying.
Side-grafting by inlaying.

KINDS OF GRAFTS. 8l

4.-r-Cleft-grafting, common single.
f • " " common double.
" oblique.

" terminal.

£' " " " woody.

jfr " " " herbaceous.

5. —Whip grafting, simple.

" " complex.
. . Saddle-grafting.
6.— Mixed grafting.

Grafting with cuttings.
Jtft When the cion is a cutting.

When the stock is a cutting.
" When both are cuttings.

Root-grafting of a plant on its own root.

" " " " the roots of another plant.

Grafting with fruit buds.

j. Inarching, or Grafting by Approach.

i.— Method by veneering.

". • " inlaying.
. English method.
2. —Inarching with an eye.

" a branch.

Is Graftage a Devitalizing Process ? — The opinion is
commonly expressed by horticultural writers that graftage
is somehow vitally pernicious, and that its effects upon the
plant must be injurious. Graftage is often cited as the cause
of the running out of varieties. The process has also been
strongly indicted during the past few years by writers in
England Inasmuch as the question is vital to the practice
of fruit-growing in America, it will be worth while to make
a somewhat careful study of the questions respecting the
relationship between graftage and the vitality of the grafted
plant. For this purpose, a paper read by the author before

GRAFTAGE.

the Peninsula Horticultural Society at Dover, Delaware, in
1892, and printed in the transactions of the society, is here
reproduced :

To the popular mind there seems to be something mys-
terious in the process of graftage. People look upon it as
something akin to magic, and entirely opposed to the laws
of nature. It is popularly thought to represent the extreme
power which man exercises over natural forces. It is

strange that this opinion should
prevail in these times,- for the
operation itself is very simple,
and the process of union is
nothing more than the healing
of a wound. It is in no way
more mysterious than the root-
ing of cuttings, and it is not so
unnatural, if by this expression
we refer to the relative fre-
quency of the occurrences of
the phenomena in nature. Nat-
ural grafts are by no means rare
among forest trees, and occa-
sionally the union is so com-
plete that the foster stock en-
tirely supports and nourishes
the other. A perfect inarch -
graft, by means of which two
oalc trees have united into one,
is shown in Fig. 82. Cuttings of
stems, however, are very rare
among wild plants ; in fact, there is but one common
instance, in the north, in which stem cuttings are made
entirely without the aid of man, and that is the case of cer-
tain brittle willows whose branchlets are easily cast by wind
and snow into streams and moist places, where they some-
times take root. But mere unnaturalness of any operation
has no importance in discussions of phenomena attaching

82. A natural graft of forest trees.

IS GRAFTAGE PERNICIOUS ? 83

to cultivated plants, for all cultivation is itself unnatural
in this ordinary sense.

But it is difficult to see why the union of cion and stock
is any more mysterious or unusual than the rooting of cut-
tings ; in fact, it has always seemed to me to be the simpler
and more normal process of the two. A wounded surface
heals over as a matter of protection to the plant, and when
two wounded surfaces of consanguineous plants are closely
applied, nothing is more natural than that the nascent cells
should interlock and unite. In other words, there is no
apparent reason why two cells from different allied stems
should refuse to unite any more than two cells from the
same stem. But why bits of stem should throw out roots
from their lower portion and leaves from their upper por-
tion, when both ends may be to every human sense exactly
alike, is indeed a mystery. Healing is regarded as one of
the necessary functions of stems, but rooting cannot be so
considered.

This much is said by way of preface in order to eliminate
any preconception that graftage is in principle and essence
opposed to nature, and is therefore fundamentally wrong.
A large part of the discussion of the philosophy of grafting
appears to have been random, because of a conviction or
assumption that it is necessarily opposed to natural
processes.

It does not follow from these propositions, however,
that graftage is a desirable method of multiplying plants,
but simply that the subject must be approached by means
of direct and positive evidence. Much has been said during
the last few years concerning the merits of graftage, and
the opponents of the system have made the most sweeping
statements of its perniciousness. This recent discussion
started from an editorial which appeared in The Field, an
English journal, and which was copied in The Garden of
January 26, 1889, with an invitation for discussion of the
subject. The article opens as follows: "We doubt if
there is a greater nuisance in the whole practice of gar-

84 GRAFTAGE.

dening than the art of grafting. It is very clever, it is
very interesting, but it will be no great loss if it is abol-
ished altogether. It is for the convenience of the nursery-
man that it is done in nine cases out of ten, and in nearly
all instances it is not only needless, but harmful. * * *
If we made the nurserymen give us things on their own
roots, they would find some quick means of doing so."
A most profuse discussion followed for a period of two
years, in which many excellent observers took part.
Some of the denunciations of graftage are as follows :
"Grafting is always a makeshift, and very often a fraud."
"Grafting is in effect a kind of adulteration. * * * *
It is an analogue of the coffee and chicory business.
Grafted plants of all kinds are open to ail sorts of acci-
dents and disaster, and very often the soil, or the climate,
or the cultivator, is blamed by employers for evils which
thus originated in the nursery. * * * * If, in certain
cases, grafting as a convenience has to be resorted to,
then let it be root-grafting, a system that eventually af-
fords the cion a chance of rooting on its own account in a
natural way." "Toy games, such as grafting and bud-
ding, will have to be abandoned, and real work must be
begun on some sound and sensible plan." "Any fruit-
bearing or ornamental tree that will not succeed on its
own roots had better go to the rubbish fire at once. We
want, no coddled or grafted stuff, when own-rooted things
are in all ways infinitely better, healthier, and longer-
lived." These sweeping statements are made by F. W.
Burbidge, of Dublin, a well-known author, whose opinions
command attention. The editor of The Garden writes :
"We should not plant any grafted tree or shrub, so far
as what are called ornamental trees and shrubs are con-
cerned. There may be reason for the universal grafting of
fruit trees, though we doubt it." These quotations are
not cited in any controversial spirit, but simply to show
the positiveness with which the practice of graftage is
assailed. As the presumption is in favor of any practice

IS GRAFTAGE PERNICIOUS ? 85

which has become universal, these statements possess
extraordinary interest.

The assumptions underlying these denunciations of
graftage are three, and as these are essentially the rea-
sons which are usually cited by the opponents of the
system, they may be considered here. These are : i. The
citation of numerous instances in which graftage (by
which is meant both grafting and budding) has given per-
nicious results. 2. The affirmation that the process is
unnatural. 3. The statement that own-rooted plants are
better — that is, longer lived, hardier, more virile — than
graft-rooted plants.

i. The citations of the injurious effects of graftage are
usually confined to ornamental plants, and the commonly
cited fault of the operation is the tendency of the stocks to
sucker and choke the graft. This fault is certainly very
common, but on the other hand there are numerous
instances in which it does not occur, as, for instance, in
peach, apple, pear and many other fruit-trees, and in very
many ornamentals. In fact, it is probably of no more com-
mon occurrence than is the pernicious suckering of plants
grown from cuttings, as in the lilacs, cutting-grown or
sucker-grown plums, and many other plants, in which suck-
ers must be assiduously kept down or they will choke the
main stem which we are endeavoring to rear. And these
remarks will apply with equal force to all the citations
of the ill-effects of graftage ; the cases simply show that
the operation has been a failure or is open to objections
in the particular instances cited, and they afford no proof
that there may not be other plants upon which graftage
is an entire success. Graftage has been indiscriminately
employed, and it is apparent to everyone that there have
been many failures. But this does not prove graftage
wrong, any more than the wrong practice of physicians
proves that the science of medicine is pernicious. If
there are plants upon which graftage is entirely suc-
cessful, then all must agree that the operation itself,
G

86 GRAFTAGE.

per se, is not wrong, however many cases there may be
to which it is not adapted.

2. The proposition that graftage is unnatural, and there-
fore pernicious, is no more nor less than a fallacy. In the
first place, there is nothing to show that it is any more
unnatural than the making of cuttings, and if naturalness is
proved by frequency of occurrence in nature, then graftage
must be considered the more natural process of the two, as
already shown. One of the most determined writers upon
this subject has said that " it is quite fair to say that raising
a tree from seed, or a shrub by pulling it in pieces [cut-
tings] is a more natural mode of increase than by grafting. ' '
It is difficult to understand by what token the author is to
prove that pulling a plant in pieces is more natural than
graftage; and there appears to have been no attempt to
show that it is so.

But the whole discussion of the mere naturalness of any
operation is really aside from the question, for every opera-
tion in the garden is in some sense unnatural, whether it be
transplantation, pruning, or tillage ; and it is well known
that these unnatural processes may sometimes increase
the longevity and virility of the plant. Plants which are
given an abundance of food and are protected from insects
and fungi and the struggle with other plants, are better
equipped than those left entirely to nature. It is the com-
monest notion that cultivation is essentially an artificial
stimulus, that it excites the plant to performances really
beyond its own power, and therefore devitalizes it. But this
is a fallacy. All plants and animals in a state of nature
possess more power than they are able to express, and they
are held in a state of equilibrium, as Herbert Spencer puts
it, by the adaptation to environment. Once the pressure of
existing environments is removed, the plant springs into the
breach and takes on some new features of size, robustness,
or prolificacy, or distributes itself in new directions. The
whole series of benefits which arise from a change of seed
is a familiar proof of this fact. So that, if cultivation,

ARE OWN-ROOTED PLANTS BETTER ? 87

domestication, or, in other words, unnaturalness, may be
sometimes a stimulus, it is not necessarily so. Cultivation
differs from natural conditions more in degree than in kind.
Or, as Darwin writes, " Man may be said to have been
trying an experiment on a gigantic scale," and "it is an
experiment which nature during the long lapse of time
has incessantly tried. "

3. It is said that own-rooted plants are better than fos-
ter-rooted ones. This is merely an assumption, and yet it
has been held with dogmatic positiveness by many writers.
If mere unnaturalness, that is, rarity or lack of occurrence
in nature, is no proof of perniciousness, as has been
shown, then this statement admits of argument just as
much as any other proposition. And surely at this day
we should test such statements by direct evidence rather
than by a priori convictions. The citation of any number
of instances of the ill-effects of graftage is no proof that
own-rooted plants are necessarily better, if there should
still remain cases in which no injurious effects follow.
Now, if it is true that "own-rooted things are in all ways
infinitely better, healthier and longer-lived" than foster-
rooted plants, and if "grafted plants of all kinds are
open to all sorts of accidents and disaster," then the
proposition should admit of most abundant proof. The
subject may be analyzed by discussing the following
questions: a. Is the union always imperfect? b. Are
grafted plants less virile than own-rooted ones ? Are they
shorter lived?

a. It is well known that the physical union between
cion and stock is often imperfect, and remains a point of
weakness throughout the life of a plant. But this is not
always true. There are scores of plants which make per-
fect physical unions with other plants of their own species,
or even with other species, and it follows that these,
alone, are the plants that should be grafted. The very-
best proof which can be adduced that the union may be
physically perfect, is to be found in the micro-photograph

GRAFTAGE.

of an apple graft published six years ago in The American
Garden by Professor C. S. Crandall. The cells are knit
together so completely that it is impossible to determine
the exact line of union (Fig. 83). Mr. Crandall also fig-

83. A perfect union of stock and don, following veneer-grafting.
The stock is upon the left, and the don upon the right. The
united tissue is seen running through the center. (X25.)

ures a microscopic section of an apple graft in which the
union is very poor, but this graft was made in a different
manner from the other (Fig. 84) ; and that is another proof
that the operation should be suited to the subject.

These were grafts made upon nursery stock, and it

PERFECT AND IMPERFECT UNIONS.

would appear that if the union were good at the expira-
tion of the first year, it would remain good throughout
the life of the plant. In order to test this point, two apple
trees were procured, which were fifteen years old and over

84. Imperfect union of a whip-Kraft. The body of the stock is on the
left ; then follows the tongue of the cion ; then the tongue of the stock ;
and finally, on the right, the body of the cion. The spaces show the
lack of union which sometimes occurs, (x 25.)

six inches in diameter, which had been grafted at the
surface of the ground in the nursery. In the presence of
two critical observers, the trunks were split into many
pieces, but no mark whatever could be found of the old

9O GRAFTAGE.

union. The grain was perfectly straight and bright
through the crown. Every internal evidence of a graft
had disappeared.

So far as the strength of a good union is concerned, all
fruit growers know that trees rarely break where they are
grafted. In a certain seedling orchard, many hundreds of
grafts were set in the tops of the trees, often far out on
large limbs ; and yet, with all the breaking of the trees by
ice, storms and loads of fruit, a well-established union has
not been known to break away. The strength of the
union was tested in a different way. Two "stubs" were
cut from an old and rather weak apple tree which had been
cleft-grafted in the spring of 1889. These stubs were
sawed up into cross-sections less than an, inch thick, and
each section, therefore, had a portion of foreign wood
grown into either side of it. These sections were now
placed on a furnace and kept very hot for two days, in
order to determine how they would check in seasoning,
for it is evident that the checks occur in the weakest
points. But in no case was there a check in the amalga-
mated tissue, showing that it was really an element of
physical strength to the plant. A similar test was made
with yearling mulberry grafts, and with similar results;
and this case is particularly interesting because there
were three species engrafted— the common Russian mul-
berry, Morus rubra, and M. Japonica.

From all these considerations, it is evident that, ad-
mitting that hundreds of poor unions occur, there is no
necessary reason why a graft should be a point of physical
weakness, and that the statement that "grafted plants of
all kinds are open to all sorts of accidents and disaster,"
is not true.

b. Are grafted plants less virile — that is, less strong,
vigorous, hardy, shorter-lived — than others? It is evident
that a poor union or an uncongenial stock will make the
resulting plant weak, and this is a further proof that in-
discriminate graftage is to be discouraged. But these

DOES GRAFTAGE DEVITALIZE? QI

facts do not affirm the question. There are two ways of
approaching the general question, by philosophical con-
siderations and by direct evidence.

It is held by many persons that any asexual propaga-
tion is in the end devitalizing, since the legitimate method
of propagation is by means of seeds. This notion appears
to have found confirmation in the conclusions of Darwin
and his followers, that the ultimate function of sex is
to revitalize and strengthen the offspring following the
union of the characters or powers of two parents ; for if
the expensive sexual propagation invigorates the type,
asexual propagation would seem to weaken it. It does
not follow, however, that because sexual reproduction is
good, asexual increase is bad, but rather that the one is,
as a rule, better than the other, without saying that the
other is injurious. We are not surprised to find, there-
fore, that some plants have been asexually propagated
for centuries with apparently no decrease of vitality, al-
though this fact does not prove that the plant may not
have positively increased in virility if sexual propagation
had been employed. The presumption is always in favor
of sexual reproduction, a point which will be admitted by
every one. And right here is where graftage has an
enormous theoretical advantage over cuttage or any other
asexual multiplication : the root of the grafted plant springs
from sexual reproduction, for it is a seedling, and if the
union is physically perfect, as is frequently the case, there
is reason to suppose that grafting between consanguineous
plants is better than propagating by cuttings or layers.
In other words, graftage is really sexual multiplication,
and if seeds have any advantage over buds in forming
the foundation of a plant, graftage is a more perfect
method than any other artificial practice. It is, in fact,
the nearest approach to direct sexual reproduction, and
when seeds cannot be relied upon wholly, as they cannot,
for the reproduction of many garden varieties, it is the
ideal practice, always provided, of course, that it is prop-

92 GRAFTAGE.

erly done between congenial subjects. It is not to be ex-
pected that the practice is adapted to all plants, any more
than is the making of cuttings of leaves or of stems,
but this fact cannot be held to invalidate the system.

It has been said, in evidence that graftage is a devital-
izing or at least disturbing process, that grafted plants
lose the power of independent propagation. Mr. Bur-
bidge writes that "any plant once grafted becomes ex-
ceedingly difficult of increase, except by grafting." Evi-
dence should be collected to show if this is true. All our
fruits grow just as readily from seeds from grafted as from
seedling trees, and it is doubtful if there is a well authen-
ticated case of a plant which grows readily from cuttings
becoming any more difficult to root from, cuttings after
having been grafted.

But is there direct evidence to show that "grafting is
always a make-shift," that it is a " toy game," that "grafted
plants of all kinds are open to all sorts of accidents and
disaster," that "own-rooted things are in all ways infinitely
better, healthier, and longer-lived?" These statements
allow of no exceptions ; they are universal and iron-bound.
If the questions were to be fully met, we should need to
discuss the whole art of graftage in all its detail, but if there
is one well authenticated case in which a grafted plant is
as strong, as hardy, as vigorous, as productive and as long-
lived as seedlings or as cutting-plants, we shall have estab-
lished the fact that the operation is not necessarily perni-
cious, and shall have created the presumption that other
cases must exist.

Some forty years ago, a traveller took apple seeds from
his old home in Vermont and planted them in Michigan.
The seeds produced some hundred or more lusty trees, but
as most of the fruit was poor or indifferent, it was decided to
top-graft the trees. This grafting was done in the most
desultory manner, some trees being grafted piece-meal, with
some of the original branches allowed to remain perma-
nently, while others were entirely changed over at once;

IS GRAFTAGE DEVITALIZING ? 93

and a few of them had been grafted on the trunk about
three or four feet high, when they were as large as broom-
sticks, the whole top having been cut off when the opera-
tion was performed. A few trees which chanced to bear
tolerable fruit, scattered here and there through the orchard,
were not grafted. The orchard has been, therefore, an
excellent experiment in grafting. Many of the trees in
this old orchard have died from undeterminable causes, and
it is an interesting fact that fully half, and probably even
more, of the deaths have been seedling trees which were
for many years just as vigorous in every way as the grafted
trees ; and of the trees that remain, the grafted specimens
are in every way as vigorous, hardy and productive as the
others. Some of these trees have two tops, one of which
was grafted shoulder high in the early days, and the other
grafted into the resulting top many years later. And those
trees which contain both original branches and grafted ones
in the same top show similar results— the foreign branches
are in every way as vigorous, virile and productive as the
others, and they are proving to be just as long-lived. Here,
then, is a positive experiment compassed by the lifetime of
one man, which shows that own-rooted trees are not al-
ways "infinitely better, healthier, and longer-lived" than
grafted plants. This illustration may be considered as a
type of thousands of orchards, containing various fruits,
in all parts of the country. The fact may be cited that
the old seedling orchards which still remain to us about
the country are much more uneven and contain more
dead trees or vacant places than the commercial grafted
orchards of even the same age. This is due to the strug-
gle for existence in the old orchards, by which the weak
trees have disappeared, while the grafted orchards, being
made up of selected varieties of known virility and hardi-
ness, have remained more nearly intact, and if the seed-
ling orchards have suffered more than the grafted ones,
it must be because they have had more weak spots.
The universal favor in which graftage is held in

94 GRAFTAGE.

ica is itself a strong presumption in its favor. Growers
differ among themselves as to the best methods of per-
forming the operation, but an intelligent American will
not condemn the system as necessarily bad or wrong. In
1890 there were growing in the United States nurseries
240,570,666 apple trees, 88,494,367 plum trees, 77,223,402
pear trees, and 49,887,874 peach trees, with enough other
species to make the total of fruit trees 518,016,612. All
of this vast number will go as grafted or budded trees to
the consumer, and he will accept none other. It is true
that half of them may die from various causes before they
reach bearing age, but graftage itself plays a small part
in the failure, as may be seen in the case of grapes and
small fruits, which outnumber the tree fruits in nursery
stock, and of which less than one-half probably reach
maturity, and yet these are cutting-grown plants. It is,
in nineteen cases out of twenty, the carelessness of the
grower which brings failure.

It is impossible, if one considers the facts broadly and
candidly, to arrive at any other conclusion than this :
Graftage is not suited to all plants, but in those to which
it is adapted— and they are many— it is not a devitalizing
process.

2. BUDDING.

Budding is the operation of applying a single bud,
bearing little or no wood, to the surface of the growing
wood of the stock. The bud is applied directly to the
cambium layer of the stock. It is nearly always inserted
under the bark of the stock, but in flute-budding a piece
of bark is entirely removed, and the bud is used to cover
the wound. There is no general rule to determine what
species of plants should be budded and which ones cion-
grafted. In fact, the same species is often multiplied by
both operations. Plants with thin bark and an abundance
of sap are likely to do best when grafted ; or if they are
budded, the buds should be inserted at a season when the

SHIELD-BUDDING.

sap is least abundant, to prevent the "strangulation " or
"throwing out" of the bud. In such species, the bark is
not strong enough to hold the bud firmly until it unites ;
and solid union does not take place until the flow of "sap
lessens. Budding is largely employed upon nearly all
young fruit trees, and almost universally so upon the stone
fruits. It is also used in roses and many ornamental trees.
Upon nursery trees, it is employed in a greater number of
cases than grafting is, but grafting is in commoner use for
working-over the tops of large trees. Budding is com-
monly performed during the growing season, usually in
late summer or early fall, because mature buds
can be procured at that time, and young stocks
are then large enough to be worked readily.
But budding can be done in early spring, just as
soon as the bark loosens ; in this case perfectly
dormant buds must have been taken in winter
and kept in a cellar, ice-house or other cool
place. Budding is always best performed when
the bark slips or peels easily. It can be done
when the bark is tight, but the operation is then
tedious and uncertain. It is also much more successful
when performed in dry, clear weather.

Shield-budding. — There is but one style of budding in
general use in this country. This is known as shield-bud-
ding, from the shield-like shape of the portion of bark
which is removed with the bud. Technically, the entire
severed portion, comprising both bark and bud, is called
a "bud." A shield-bud is shown natural size in Fig. 85.
This is cut from a young twig of the present season's
growth. It is inserted underneath the bark of a young
stock or branch (Fig. 91), and is then securely tied, as
shown in Fig. 92.

The minor details of shield-budding differ with nearly
every operator, and with the kind of plant which is to be
budded. In commercial practice, it is performed in the
north mostly from early July until the middle of Septem-

g GRAFT AGE.

her. In the southern states it usually begins in June. As
a rule, apples and pears are budded earlier in the season
than peaches are. This is due to the fact that peach stocks
are nearly always budded the same season the pits are
planted, and the operation must be de-
layed until the stocks are large enough to
be worked.

Most fruit-stocks, especially apples and
pears, are not budded until two years after the
seeds are sown. The plants grow for the first
season in a seed-bed. The next spring they are
transplanted into nursery rows, and budded when
they become large enough, which is usually the same
year they are transplanted. The nurseryman reckons
the age of his stock from the time of transplanting,
and the age of the marketable tree from the time
when the buds or grafts begin to grow. Stocks are
sometimes "dressed" or trimmed before being set
into the nursery. This operation consists in cutting
off a fourth or third of the top, and the tap root.
This causes the roots to spread and induces a vig-
orous growth of top, because it reduces the number
of shoots ; and such stocks are more expeditiously
handled than long and untrimmed ones. A Manetti
rose stock, dressed and ready for planting, is shown
in Fig. 86. This stock was grown in France, and upon
being received in this country was trimmed as
it is now seen. It will now (in the spring) be
set in the nursery row, and it will be budded
near the surface of the ground in the summer. & Dressed rose

Stocks should be at least three-eighths inch 5to^ (xtf )•.
in diameter to be budded with ease. Just before the buds
are set, the leaves are removed from the base of the stock,
so that they will not interfere with the operation. They are
usually rubbed off with the hand for a space of five or six
inches above the ground. They should not be removed
more than two or three days in advance of budding, else

SHIELD-BUDDING. 97

the growth of the parts will be checked and the bark will
"set." Any branches, too, as in the quince, which might
impede the work of the budder, are to be cut off at the same
time. The bud is inserted an inch or two above the sur-
face of the ground, or as low down as the budder can work.
The advantage of setting the bud low is to bring
the resulting crook or union where it will not be
seen, and to enable it to be set below the surface
of the ground when the tree is transplanted, if the
planter so desires. It is a common and good
practice, also, to place the bud upon the north side /
of the stock to shield it from the sun. A greater '
number of the buds will grow when set upon the
north side.

The buds are taken from strong and well
hardened shoots of the season's growth and of the
desired variety. Usually the whole of the present
growth is cut, the leaves are removed, but a part
of the petiole or stalk of each leaf is left (as in
Figs. 85 and 87) to serve as a handle to the bud.
This trimmed shoot is then called a "stick." A
stick may bear two dozen good buds when the
growth has been strong, but only ten or twelve
buds are commonly secured. The upper buds,
which are usually not fully grown, and which are
borne on soft wood, are usually discarded.

The buds are cut with a thin-bladed sharp
knife. Various styles of budding knives are in
use, and the budder usually has decided prefer-
ences for some particular pattern. The essentials
of a good budding knife are these : the very best of buds

steel, a thin blade which has a curved or half-
circular cutting end, which is light, and handy in shape.
The curved end of the blade is used for making the incisions
in the stock. The handle of the budding-knife usually runs
into a thin bone scalpel at the end, and this portion is
designed for the lifting or loosening of the bark on the

GRAFTAGE.

stock. The operation of raising the bark by means of this
scalpel is often called "boning." Some budders, how-
ever, raise the bark with the blade. A good form of blade,
but one seldom made, has a rounded end, the upper side

<&?. Budding-knife with stationary blade

of the curve being ground simply to a thin edge. This
blade may be used both for cutting the bark and loosening
it, thus overcoming the necessity of reversing the knife
every time a bud is set. If this form of blade were com-
monly known it would undoubtedly soon come into favor.
The blade of a common budding-knife can be ground to
this shape. In the large fruit-tree nurseries of New York
state, the knife shown in Fig. 88 is in common use. This
is a cheap knife (costing fifteen cents or less by the dozen),
with a stationary blade. When using this knife, the oper-
ator loosens the bark with the
rounded edge of the blade.
The bud is usually cut
about an inch long. Most
budders cut from below up-
wards (as seen in the in-
verted stick in Fig. 87, and
in Fig. 89), but some prefer
to make a downward inci-
sion. It does not matter just
how the bud is cut, if the
surfaces are smooth and

89. Cutting the bud. , , .

even, and the bud is not too

thick. Some propagators cut the buds as they go, while
others prefer to cut a whole stick before setting any,
letting each bud hang by a bit of bark at the top, and
which is cut off squarely when wanted, as is shown in
Fig. 87. On a stick a fourth or three-eighths inch through

SHIELD-BUDDING.

the cut, at its deepest point just under the bud, is about
one-fourth the diameter of the twig. A bit of wood is,
therefore, removed with the bud, as shown in Fig. 85.
There is some discussion as to whether this wood should
be left upon the bud, but no definite experiments have
been made to show that it is injurious to the resulting
tree. Some budders remove the wood with the point of
the knife or by a deft twist as the bud is taken from the
stick. But buds appear to live equally well with wood
attached or removed. The bit of
wood probably serves a useful
purpose in retaining moisture in
the bud, but it at the same time
interposes a foreign body between
the healing surfaces, for the bark
of the bud unites directly with the
surface of the stock. Probably
the very youngest portions of the
wood in the bud unite with the
stock, but if the budding-knife
cuts deep, the denser part of the
wood should be removed from
the bud. This remark is particu-
larly true, also, of all buds which

are likely to be cut into the pith,

, J 90. Preparing the stock (x.%),

as in the nut trees.

The wound or matrix which is to receive the bud is made
by two incisions, one vertical and one transverse (Fig. 90).
These are light cuts, extending only through the bark. The
vertical slit is usually made first and by the rounded end
of the blade. This is an inch or inch and a half long. The
transverse cut is made across the top of the vertical cut by
one rocking motion of the blade. The corners of the bark
may be lifted a little by an outward motion of the blade so
as to allow the bud to be pushed in, but unless the bark
slips very freely it will have to be loosened by the end of the
blade or by the scalpel on the reverse end of the handle, as

100

GRAFTAGE.

previously explained. The bud is now inserted in the cleft
of the bark. It is pushed down part way by the fingers, as
in Fig. 91, but it is usually driven home by
pushing down upon the leaf-stalk handle with
the back of the knife-blade. The entire bud
should pass into the cleft ; or if a portion of
it should project above, it should be cut off.
If the bark peels freely, the bud will slip in
easily and will follow the cleft, but if it sticks
somewhat, more care is necessary to prevent
the bud from running out. If the bark is very
tight, it may have to be loosened with the
knife throughout the length of the cleft ; but
budding should be performed, if possible,
when such pains is not necessary.
The bud must now be tied. The

. TA..V ^

whole matrix should be closed and
bound securely, as repre-
sented in Fig. 92. The
string is usually started be-
low the bud, usually being
wrapped twice below the bud
and about thrice above it, in
fruit-trees, the lower end being held by lapping
the second course over it, and the upper end
being secured by drawing a bow through under
the upper course, or sometimes by tying an ordi-
nary hard knot. Care should be taken not to
bind the string over the bud itself. The strings
are previously cut the required length — about a
foot — and the tying is performed very quickly.
Any soft cord may be employed. Yarn and
carpet warp are sometimes used. The most

92. The bud common material, at least until the last few
years, has been bass-bark. This is the inner

bark of the bass-wood or linden. The bark is stripped in

early summer, and the inner portion is macerated or

. Bud entering
matrix

TYING SHIELD-BUDS. IOI

"rotted" in water for four or five weeks. It is then
removed, cut into the desired lengths, and stripped into
narrow bands — one-fourth to one-half inch wide— when it
may be sorted and stored away for future use. If it is stiff
and harsh when it comes from the maceration, it should be
pounded lightly or rubbed through the hands until it
becomes soft and pliable. The best tying material which
we now have is undoubtedly raffia. It is an imported
article, coming from the eastern tropics (the product of the
palm Raphia Ruffia), but it is so cheap that it is supersed-
ing even bass-bark. It is strong and pliable, and is an
excellent material for tying up plants in the greenhouse, or
small ones outdoors. The greatest disadvantage in its use
in the budding field is its habit of rolling when it becomes
dry, but it may be dipped in water a few minutes before it is
taken into the field, or, better still, it may be allowed to lie
on the fresh ground during the previous night, during which
time it will absorb sufficient moisture to become pliable.

In two or three weeks after the bud is set, it will have
"stuck" or united to the stock. The bandage must then
be removed or cut. It is the common practice to draw a
budding-knife over the strings, on the side opposite the bud,
completely severing them and allowing them to fall off as
they will. If the strings are left on too long they will con-
strict the stem and often kill the bud, and they also have a
tendency to cause the bud to "break " or to begin to grow.
The bud should remain perfectly dormant until spring, for if
it should begin to grow it will be injured and perhaps killed
by the winter. It should remain green and fresh ; if it
shrivels and becomes brown, even though it still adheres to
the stock, it is worthless. Advantage can be taken, when
cutting the tyings, to rebud any stocks which have failed.
If the bud should begin to grow, because of a warm and wet
fall or other reasons, there is little remedy except perhaps to
head the shoot back if it should become long enough. If
the stocks are protected by snow during winter, some of
the buds at the base of the shoot may pass the cold in
H

102

GRAFTAGE.

safety. A dormant bud, as it appears in the winter follow-
ing the budding, is shown in Fig. 93. This bud was inserted
in August, 1895 ; the picture was made in
March, 1896 ; the bud should have started
to grow in May, 1896.

The spring following the budding, the
stock should be cut off just above the bud,
in order to throw the entire force of the
plant into the bud. The stock is gener-
ally, and preferably, cut off twice. The
first cutting leaves the stub 4 or 5 inches
long above the bud. This cutting is made
as soon as the stocks begin to show any
signs of activity. Two weeks later, or
when the bud has begun to grow (the
shoot having reached the length of an inch
or two), the stock is again cut off a half-

<& inch above the

/ jftfr \gj^. bud (Fig- 94)-
A greater pro-
portion of buds will usually
grow if this double heading-
in is done, in outdoor condi-
tions, than if the stock is cut back to the
bud at the first operation. If the root is
strong and the soil good, the bud will grow
2 to 6 feet the first year, depending much
upon the species. All sprouts should be
kept rubbed off the stock, and the bud
should be trained to a single stem. In
some weak and crooked growers, the new
shoot must be tied, and some propagators
94. Cutting off the m such cases cut off the stock 5 or 6
stock (*.%)' inches above the bud and let it serve as a
stake to which to tie ; but this operation is too expensive
to be employed on common fruit trees. The stock, of
course, must not be allowed to grow. Late in the season

JUNE BUDDING. IO3

the stock is cut down close to the bud. Peaches and
some other fruits are sold after having made one season's
growth from the bud, but pears, apples, and most other
trees are not often sold until the second or third year.

"June budding" is a term applied to the budding of
stocks in early summer, while they are yet growing rap-
idly. It is employed at the south, where the stocks can be
grown to sufficient size by the last of June or first of July.
Small stocks are usually employed — those ranging from
one-fourth to one-third inch being preferred. A few
strong leaves should be left on the stock below the bud,
and after the bud has "stuck," the whole top should not
be cut off at once, else the growing plant will receive a
too severe check. It is best to bend the top over to
check its growth, or to remove the leaves gradually. The
bandages should not be left on longer than six to ten days
if the stock is growing rapidly. To prevent the constric-
tion of the stem, muslin bands are sometimes used instead
of bass or raffia. In hot and dry climates the buds should
be set an inch or two higher in June budding than in the
ordinary practice, to escape the great heat of the soil.
June budding is used upon the peach more than any other
tree, although it can be employed for any species which
will give large enough stocks from seed by the June fol-
lowing the sowing. In peaches, the bud will produce a
shoot from 3 to 5 feet high the same season the buds are
set, so that marketable budded trees can be produced in
one season from the seed.

A different kind of early summer budding is sometimes
performed upon apples and other fruit-trees. In this case,
the stocks are one or two years old from the transplanting,
the same as for common budding, but dormant buds are
used. These buds are cut the previous fall or winter in the
same manner as cions, and when spring approaches they
are put on ice— in sawdust, sand or moss— and kept until
the stocks are large enough to receive them. The particu-
lar advantage of this method is the distributing of the labor

IO4 GRAFTAGE.

of budding over a longer season, thereby avoiding the rush
which often occurs at the regular budding time. It is also a
very useful means of top-working trees, for the buds start
the same season in which the buds are set, and a whole sea-
son is thereby saved as compared with the common summer
or fall budding.

Rudders usually carry a number of " sticks " with them
when they enter the nursery. These may be carried in the
pocket, or thrust into the boot-leg ; or some budders carry
four or five sticks in the hand. The budder follows a row-
throughout its length, passing over those trees which are too

small to work. It is a
common practice to
rest upon one knee
while budding, as
shown in Fig. 95, but
some prefer to use a
low stool. It is a
common practice, in
some nursery regions,
for budders to use a

95. Budder at work. low box with half of

the top covered to

serve as a seat, and the box is used for carrying buds, string,
knives and whetstone. The tying is usually done by a boy,
who should follow close behind the budder, in order that
the buds shall not dry out. An expert budder will set
from 1,000 to 3,000 buds a day, in good stock, and with a
boy (or two of them for the latter speed) to tie. Peach
stocks are more rapidly budded than most others, as the
bark is firm and slips easily, and some remarkable records
are made by skillful workmen.

Budding is sometimes employed the same as top-grafting
for changing over the top of an old tree from one variety to
another. The buds cannot be easily inserted in very old
and stiff bark, but in all smooth and fresh bark they work
readily, even if the limb is three or four years old ; but the

PRONG- AND PLATE-BUDDING. IO5

younger the limb, the greater the proportion of buds which
may be expected to live. Sometimes old trees are severely
pruned the year before the budding is to
be done, in order to obtain young shoots
in which to set the buds. In fruit trees six
or seven years old or less, budding is fully
as advantageous as grafting. New varie-
ties are also budded into old branches in order
to hasten bearing of the bud, for the purpose of
testing the variety. Here budding has a distinct
advantage over grafting, as it uses fewer buds, and
the wood of new sorts is often scarce.

Prong-budding. — A modification of the com- p6.
mon shield-bud is the use of a short prong or spur 6ud(Kl)-
in the place of a simple bud. The bud is cut in essentially
the same manner as the shield-bud (Fig. 96). This is chiefly
used upon the Pacific coast for nut trees, particularly for
the walnut, and when the trees are dormant. The method
is very much like grafting, for the stock is cut off just above
the bud when the operation is performed, and the wound,
in addition to being tied, is covered over with grafting wax.
In budding the walnut, it is essential that nearly all the
wood be removed from the bud, in order to bring as much
as possible of the bark in direct contact with the stock.
This is sometimes called twig-budding.

Plate -budding is a method sometimes em-
ployed with the olive, and is probably adapted
to other species. A rectangular incision is
made through the bark of the stock, and the
flap of bark is turned down (Fig. 97). A bud
is cut of similar shape, with no wood attached,
and it is inserted in the rectangular space, and
is then covered with the flap, which is brought
97. Plate-bud- up and tied. The subsequent treatment of the
ding (x%). buci is simiiar to that of the ordinary shield-bud.
A method of winter budding used at the Texas Experj-

io6

GRAFTAGE.

ment Station (Bull. 37, p. 713 ; Sixth Rep., 414) is evidently
a modification of this plate^budding: " The method is simply
to cut a slice of bark down the stock, leaving
it still attached to the stock at the lower end, to
help hold the bud. Part of the loose strip is
then cut off and the bud fitted over the cut
place with the lower end being held firmly by
the part of the slip left. A piece of raffia is
then tied around the bud to hold it firmly."

H-buddinj (Fig. 98) is a modification of plate-
budding. In this method, a flap is formed both
above and below, covering the bud from both
ends, and allowing of more per-
fect fitting of the bark about
the bulge of the bud.

Flute-budding. — An occa-
sional method of budding is that
known under the general name
of flute-budding. In this method the bud
is not covered by the bark of the stock, as
in the other methods here described. Fig.
99 illustrates it. A portion of bark is re-
moved entirely from the stock, and a similar
piece is fitted into its place. When the
wound extends only part way about the
stem, as in the illustration, the operation is

sometimes known as veneer-budding. 99 Flute-budding
When it extends entirely round the
stem it is called ring or annular-budding. Flute-bud-
ding is usually performed late in the spring. It is best
adapted to plants with very thick and heavy bark.
The bud is tied and afterwards treated in essentially
the same manner as in shield-budding. A species of
flute-budding in which a ring of bark is slipped down
ioo. Chip upon the tip of a shoot, which has been girdled for the
(x^i). purpose, is called whistle- or tubular-budding.

GRAFTING. — CUTTING THE CIONS. 107

Chip-budding (Fig. 100} is a method which inserts a chip
of bark and wood into a mortise in the stock. It is used
in spring, when the stock is dormant and the bark does not
slip. It is held in place by tying, and it is better for being
covered with wax.

3. GRAFTING.

Grafting is the operation of inserting a cion — or a twig
comprising one or more buds — into the stock, usually into
an incision made in the wood. It is divided or classified
in various ways, but chiefly with reference to the position
of the union upon the plant, and to the method in which
the cion and stock are joined. In reference to position,
there are four general classes: i. Root-grafting, in which
the stock is entirely a root. 2. Crown-grafting, which is
performed upon the crown or collar of the plant just at the
surface of the ground, an operation which is often con-
founded with root-grafting. 3. Stem-grafting, in which the
cion is set on the trunk or body of the tree below the
limbs, a method occasionally employed with young trees.
4. Top-grafting, or grafting in the branches of the tree.
Any method of inserting the cion may be employed in
these classes. The best classification, particularly for pur-
poses of description, is that which considers methods of
making the union. Some of these kinds of grafting are
catalogued on pages 80 and 81. The most important
methods of grafting are now to be considered ; but al-
most endless modifications may be made in the details of
the operations. The union of the cion with the stock,
like the union of the bud and the stock, depends upon
the growing together of the cambial tissue of the two.
It is, therefore, essential that the tissue lying between the
outer bark and the wood in the cion should come closely
in contact with the similar tissue of the stock.

Cions are cut in fall or winter, or any time before the
buds swell in spring. Only the previous year's growth is

IO8 GRAFTAGE.

used in all ordinary cases, but in maples and some other
trees, older wood may be used. In the grafting of peaches —
which is very rarely done — the best cions are supposed to
be those which bear a small portion of two-year-old
wood at the lower end. This portion of old wood
probably serves no other purpose than a mechanical
one, as the recent wood is soft and pithy. It is a
common opinion that cions are worthless if cut dur-
ing freezing weather, but this is unfounded. The
cions are stored in sand, moss or sawdust in a cool
cellar, or they may be buried in a sandy place. Or
sometimes, when a few are wanted for top-grafting,
they are thrust into the ground beside the tree into
which they are to be set the following spring. If
the cions are likely to start before the spring graft-
ing can be done, they may be placed in an ice
Cion of house. Only well-formed and mature buds
hip^graft should be used. Sometimes flower-buds are
inserted for the purpose of fruiting a new or
rare variety the following year, but unless particular
pains is taken to nurse such a cion, it is apt to give
only very indifferent results.

Whip-grafting.— Whip or tongue-grafting is em-
ployed only on small stocks, usually upon those one
or two years old. Both the cion and stock are cut
across diagonally, the cut surface extending from i
to 2 inches, according to the size of the part. A
vertical cleft is then made in both, and the two are
joined by shoving the tongue of the cion into the cleft
of the stock. The operation can be understood
by reference to Figs. 101, 102 and 103. Fig. 101
shows the end of a cion, cut natural size. The
stock is cut in the same manner, and the two are
joined in Figs. 102 and 103. The parts are held
firmly by a bandage— as bass bark or raffia — passed

five or six times around them. If the graft is to stand xr*f* in

. . . position.

above ground, the wound must be protected by (x^>.

ROOT-GRAFTING. IOQ

applying wax over the bandage. ( Recipes for wax may be
found at the end of this chapter. )

Root-grafting, especially of fruit stocks, is per-
formed almost entirely by the whip-graft. This opera-
tion is performed in winter. The stocks, either one
or two years old, are dug and stored in the fall. In
January or February the grafting is begun. In true
ro*ot-grafting, only pieces of roots are used, but some
prefer to use the whole root and graft at the crown.
In piece-root-grafting, from two to four trees are
made from a single root. A piece of root from two
to four inches long is used, as shown in Fig. 103.
The parts are usually held by winding with waxed
string or waxed bands. The string should be strong
enough to hold the parts securely and yet weak
enough to be broken without hurting the hands.
No. 18 knitting cotton answers this purpose admir-
ably. It should be bought in balls, which are
allowed to stand for a few minutes in melted wax.
The wax soon saturates the ball. The ball is then
removed and laid away to dry, when it is ready
for use. This waxed string will remain almost in-
definitely in condition for use. Waxed bands,
which are sometimes used, are made by spread-
ing melted wax over thin muslin, which is cut
into narrow strips when dry. The string is the
more useful for rapid work. The grafts are
packed away in sand, moss or sawdust in a cool
cellar until spring, when the two parts will be
firmly callused together. Some propagators I03' Root-z™
are now discarding all tying of root-grafts. The grafts are
packed away snugly, and if the storage cellar is cool— not
above 40° — they will knit together so that they can be
planted without danger of breaking apart. If the cellar is
warm, the grafts will start into growth and be lost. It is
very important that the cellar in which root-grafts are
stored shall not become close or warm, else the grafts will

GRAFTAGE.

104.

heat or rot. Some of the characteristics of root-grafted trees
are discussed in the last part of this
chapter.

In common root-grafting in the east
and south, the cion bears about three
buds, and the root is about the same
length, or perhaps shorter. The va-
riable and unknown character of these
roots as, regards hardiness, renders it
important that, in very severe climates, roots
should be obtained from the same plant as the
cion, the hardiness of which is known. It is,
therefore, the practice in the prairie states to use
a very long cion— 8 inches to a foot — and to set
it in the ground up to the top bud. The piece of
root serves as a temporary support, and roots are
emitted along the cion. When the
tree is ready for sale the old piece
of root is often removed, or some-
times it falls away of itself. In
this manner own-rooted trees are
obtained, and it is for this reason
that root-grafting is more univer-
sally practiced west of the Great Lakes
than budding is. Even cions of ordi-
nary length often emit roots, as seen
in Fig. 104, but such cions are not long
enough to reach into uniformly moist
soil. In practice, some varieties of
fruit trees are found to emit roots from
the cion more readily than others.
Root-grafting is often cheaper than
budding, as it is performed when labor
is cheap, and two or more trees are
made from one stock.

Cuttings may be used as stocks
Growing root-graft (x^)- in those instances in which a variety

MODIFICATIONS OF THE WHIP-GRAFT.

Ill

which grows readily from cuttings unites quickly with a
variety which does not grow from cuttings. Fig. 105 illus-
trates such a case. The stock, or cutting, is the true
Downing mulberry, which strikes root readily. The
cion is any of the varieties of Morus alba or M.
rubra, like the New American or Hicks, which roots
with difficulty from cuttings. In this instance, the
buds have been cut from the stock to prevent it
from suckering.

Any sharp and strong thin-bladed knife may be
used for the making of whip-grafts. For small
and tender plants, a common budding-knife is suf-
ficient, but it is too light for most work. A favor-
ite style of knife for root-grafting is shown in
Fig. 106. It is much like a shoe-knife, with large,
cylindrical handle and a stationary blade. These
knives can be had by the dozen for about twenty-
five cents apiece.

Modified Whip-grafts. — There are many modifi-
cations of the whip-graft. One of them (Fig.. 107), |H
used for the grape, is described by Lodeman in
"The Grafting of Grapes" (Bulletin 77, Cornell
Experiment Station) : "Fig. 107 represents a form
of grafting which is quite common in Italy. The
stock is cut off at an angle an inch or two below
the surface of the soil, and is then split downward,
beginning a little above the center of the cut sur-
face. This downward cut is made at a slight
angle to the grain, in order to prevent splitting.
In true tongue or whip-grafting the cion is pre-
pared in the same manner as the stock ; but in the
graft shown in the figure, a portion of the bark is

106. Grafting-knife with stationary blade (x.%).

112

GRAFTAGE.

707. A modified whip-
graft, on a grape
stock (xtf).

first removed, and from the lower end of this cut another

is made inward and upward, in order to form the tongue.
The cion is not cut in two when the tongue is
made, as is the stock, but it extends below and
also takes root. Cion and stock are then united,
as shown in Fig. 107, care being take to have the
cambium layers in contact on one side.
When cuttings or parts of equal dia-
meters are grafted by the tongue-graft,
the layers on both sides may be placed
together. The tying of grafts is advis-
able when small wood is used, but large
stocks, when cut below the ground,
scarcely require this precaution. When
the operation is finished, the soil is
heaped up, as in cleft-grafting."

An old-fashion-
ed modification of

the whip-graft leaves the end of the cion

4 or 5 inches long, so that it may project

downwards into a bottle or dish of water,

thereby absorbing sufficient moisture to

maintain the cion until it unites with the

stock. Another modification, with the

same purpose in view, is to allow the

ends of the tying material to fall into the

water. These methods are called "bot-

tle-grafting" in the books. They

really of no account, although

they might be employed for

certain difficult subjects amongst

ornamental plants ; but even

there, better results can be ob-

tained by placing the grafts in a

close frame (like that shown in

Fig. 47), or by packing them in

J J

moss,

108. Double whip-graft

SADDLE, SPLICE, AND VENEER-GRAFTS. 113

A "double whip-graft" is shown in Fig. 108. In this
method, the cion is cut upon one side into a wedge, and
upon the other with a long tongue (H). The
stock is provided with two clefts, at R and p.
This cion, having two supports in the stock, forms
a most intimate contact with its host ; but it is too
slow, and the rewards too slight, to warrant its
general use. This is sometimes, but erroneously,
called a saddle-graft.

Saddle-grafting. — Saddle-grafting is a simple
and useful method for the shoots of small growing
plants. The stock is cut to a wedge-shape end
by two cuts, and the cion is split and set
upon the wedge (Fig. 109). The union is
then tied and waxed in the same way as
exposed whip-grafts. It is oftenest em-
ployed when a terminal bud is used, as
the wood in such cions is usually too weak
to work easily with a tongue.

Splice-grafting.— The simplest form of 109. Saddit
grafting is that shown in Fig. no, in which ***&(*&•
the two parts are simply cut across diagonally and
laid together. The parts are held only by the
string, which, together with the wax, is applied in
the same way as upon the whip-graft. Splice-graft-
ing is frequently used upon soft or tender wood
which will not admit of splitting. It is adapted
only to small shoots.

Veneer-grafting.— Fig. in shows a style of graft-
ing which is much used, particularly for ornamen-
tals and for rare stocks which are grown in pots.
An incision is made upon the stock just through the
Splice- bark and about an inch long (A, Fig. in ), the bit of
*TxJ*1)**' kar"k being removed by means of a downward slop-
ing cut at its base. The base of the cion is cut
off obliquely, and upon the longest side a portion of bark -

no.

GRAFTAGE.

is removed, corresponding to the portion taken from the
stock. The little tongue of bark on the stock covers the
base of the cion when it is set. The cion is tied tightly to
the stock (B, Fig. in), usually with raffia. This method of
grafting makes no incision into the wood, and all wounded
surfaces are completely covered by the matching of the cion
and stock. (See Fig. 83, page 88, and compare it with the
picture of a whip-graft union in Fig. 84, page 89.) It is

not necessary, there-
fore, to wax over the
wounds, as a rule.
If used in the open,
however, wax should
be used. The parts
grow together uni-
formly and quickly,
making a solid and
perfect union, as
shown at D. So far
as the union of the
parts is concerned,
this is probably the
ideal method of
grafting. This meth-
od, which is nothing
but the side-graft of
the English garden-
ers with the most

important addition of a longer tongue on the stock, is
known by various names, but it is oftenest called veneer-
grafting in this country.

Veneer-grafting is employed mostly from November to
March, upon potted plants. Stocks which are grown out-
doors are potted in the early fall and carried over in a cool
house or pit. The cion is applied an inch or two above the
surface of the soil, and the stock need not be headed back
until the cion has united. (See Fig. 112.) Both dormant

VENEER AND SIDE-GRAFTS.

and growing cions are used. All plants in full sap must be
placed under a frame in the house, in
which they can be almost entirely buried
with sphagnum, not too wet. and the
house must be kept cool and rather moist
until the cions are well established.
Some species can be transferred to
the open border or to nursery rows
in the spring, but most plants
which are grafted in this way are
handled in pots during the follow-
ing season. Rhododendrons, Ja-
panese maples and many conifers
are some of the plants which are multi-
plied by veneer-grafting. Such plants
are usually laid upon their sides in
frames (Fig. 47) and covered with moss
tor several days, or until
healing begins to take
place. This method, when
used with hardy or tender
plants, gives a great ad-
vantage in much experi-
mental work, because the stock is no ^fc
at all injured by a failure, and can be^^&k
used over again many times, perhaps ^^
even in the same season ; and the ma- ^\
nipulation is simple, and easily acquired \

by inexperienced hands.

Side-grafting. — There are various
methods of inserting a cion into the
side of a stock without cutting off the
stock. One of the best styles is shown
in Fig. 113. The example upon the
right shows the cion set into an oblique //J' S
cut in the stock, and that upon the left shows the lower
part of a thin-bladed chisel, with a bent shank, used. for

112. Veneer graft (x.%).

GRAFTAGE.

making tne incision. An ordinary chisel or a knife may
be used, however. The incision should be about an inch
deep. The cion is cut wedge-shape, as
for cleft-grafting, and it is pressed into
the incision until its cut surfaces are con-
cealed in the stock. The wound is then
tied, and, if it is above ground in the
open, it is waxed. The stock is headed
back vigorously to aid in deflecting a part
of the energy into the cion. This method
of grafting may be used to good advan-
tage upon rather small grape stocks, be-
low the surface of the ground.

A modification of this style of side-
grafting is the "cutting side-graft,"
shown in Fig. 114. This is adapted to
root-grafting, particularly of the grape.
The stock is cut wedge-shape, and is in-
serted into an oblique incision in the cion.
A side-graft which is a combination of
budding and grafting is
shown in Fig. 115. The
incision in the stock is
exactly like that made for shield-budding
(Fig. 90), but a cion, cut wedge-shape, is
used in place of a bud. The graft is tied
and waxed. This style of grafting is use-
ful for many difficult subjects. It is admi-
rably adapted to the mulberry, in which the
operation should be performed just as the
foliage is well started in the spring, with
dormant cions. The stock is headed back
a week or so after the cion is set, and again
at intervals during the season. The cion will
often make sufficient growth the first season
to form a salable tree by fall. Purple and "5- Shield-graft-

, , . . . ing, or cion-

weeping beeches may be grafted in this budding (xi).

114. Cutting: side-
graft

INLAYING-GRAFTING.

117

same fashion, except that the operation should be done in
late summer or fall, with freshly cut cions, much the same
as summer budding is done.

Inlaying.— There are various styles of graft-
ing in which a piece of wood is removed from
the stock and a cion is cut to fill the cavity.
The following methods described by Lodeman
for the grafting of grapes (Bulletin 77, Cornell
Experiment Station), will serve as a typ^j of
the class: "The stock is cut off, as for cleft
grafting. In place of splitting the stub, one or
two V-shaped grooves are made in it (Fig. 1 16).
These grooves are made by means of an instru.

. ,, , , ,, . //<5 Inlaying on

ment especially designed for the purpose. It a grape stock

is shown in Fig. 117. The tip cuts out the
triangular part. In the blade itself is a part which is bent
at the same angles as the parts forming the tip. This
indented portion of the blade is used for cutting away the
end of the cion, and with very little practice an almost
perfect fit of the two parts can be made. The one or two
cions are then placed upon the stock and are firmly tied
there. The tying material should be of such a nature that it
will decay before there is any danger of strangling the cions.
Raphia does very well, as does also bast. No. 18 knit-
ting cotton, soaked in boiling grafting wax, may be used
with entire satisfaction. The ligatures should be made as
tight as possible. Although this method of grafting is not
so commonly used as others, it still possesses some decided
advantages for grape vines. It is a much simpler and more
satisfactory method than cleft-grafting in very curly wood.

The tying is a slow process,
and for straight-grained wood
the cleft graft is to be pre-
117. Maying tool (xfc). ferred. It is also open to the
objection of requiring the

shoots to be staked or tied to some support, for the wind
is apt to break the point of union more easily than with

GRAFTAGE.

other methods. A good union admits of a very strong
growth, and if the above precautions are kept in mind the
vines will equal those produced by the more
common methods."

Cleft-grafting. — In cleft-grafting, the stock
is cut off squarely and split, and into the
split a cion with a wedge-shape base is
inserted. It is particularly adapted to large
stocks, and is the method almost univer-
sally employed for top-grafting old
trees, its only competitor being
the bark-graft described on
page 129. Fig. 118 illustrates
the operation. The end of the
stock, technically called a
"stub," is usually large enough
to accommodate two cions, one
upon either side. In fact, it is
better to use two cions, not
only because they double the
chances of success, but because
they hasten the healing of the
stub. Cleft-grafting is at best a
harsh process, especially upon
large limbs, and its evils should
be mitigated as much as pos-
sible by choosing small limbs for the operation.
In common practice, the cion (Fig. 119) contains
three buds, the lowest one standing just above the
wedge portion. This lowest bud is usually en-
tirely covered with wax, but it pushes through
without difficulty. In fact, being nearest the
source of food and most protected, its chances of //$>. cieft-
living are greater than those of the higher buds. *'*•£' "**
The sides of the cion must be cut smooth and
even. A single draw cut on each side with a sharp blade
is much better than two or three partial cuts. A good

118. Cleft-grafting ( x i ) .

CLEFT-GRAFTING.

119

grafter makes a cion by three strokes of the knife, one to cut
off the cion and two to shape it. The outer edge of the
wedge should be a lit-
tle thicker than the
inner one, so that the
stock will bind upon
it and hold it firm at
the point where the I20< cleft-grafting knife (xi.5).
union first takes place.

These cions are taken in late fall or winter, or very early
spring, and are kept in the same manner as directed on
pages 107 and 108.

The stock or stub must be cut off square and smooth
with a sharp and preferably fine-toothed saw. If one de-
sires to be especially careful in the operation, the end of
the stub, or at least two opposite sides of it, may be
dressed off with a knife, so that the juncture between the
bark and the wood may be more easily seen. Professional
grafters rarely resort to this dressing, however. The stub
is then split to the depth of an inch and a half or two
inches. Various styles of grafting-knife are used to
split the stub. The best one is that shown in Fig. 120.
It is commonly made from an old file by a blacksmith.
The blade is curved, so that the bark of the stub is drawn
in when the knife is entering, thereby lessening the danger
of loosening the bark. Another style of knife is illustrated
in Fig. 121. In this tool, the cutting edge is straight,
and, being thinner than the other tool, it tends rather
to cut the stub than to split it. Upon the end of these

knives is a wedge, about
4 or 5 inches long, for
opening the cleft. The
wedge is driven into the

121. Cleft-grafting knife (x#). cleft and allowed to re-
main while the cions are

being placed. If the cleft does not open wide enough to
allow the cions to enter, the operator bears down on the

120

GRAFTAGE.

122. Hoif s grafter

handle of the knife. It is important that the wedge stand
well away from the curved blade in the knife shown in
Fig. 1 20, else it cannot be
driven into the stub. In the
picture, it is too close to the
blade. In Fig. 121 — made
from the style of
knife most com-
monly seen in the
market —the wedge is too short for
most efficient service.

There are various devices for
facilitating the operation of cleft-
grafting, but none of them have become generally popu-
lar. One of the best is Hoit's device (Fig. 122), which
cuts a slot into the side of the stub. The machine is heM
in place by a trigger or clamp working in
notches on the under side of the frame.
The upper handle is then thrown over to
the right, forcing the knife into the stub.
This is a Californian device. A very
good grafting-knife for small stocks or
trees in nursery row is shown in Fig.
123. This is the Thomas knife. The
larger arm is made entirely of wood.
At its upper end is a grooved portion,
into which the blade closes. This blade
can be made from the blade of a steel
case-knife, and it should be about 2)^
inches long. It is secured to an iron
handle. The essential feature of this
implement is the draw cut, which is
secured by setting the blades and the
pivot in just the position shown in the
figure. The stock is cut off by the

shears, and the cleft is then made by
123. Thomas' grafting- , , •

knife turning the shears up and making a

CLEFT-GRAFTING.

121

vertical cut. The cleft is, therefore, cut instead of split,
insuring a tight fit of the cions. This tool is particularly
useful upon hard and crooked-grained stocks.
The cions must be thrust down, in the cleft,
to the first bud, or even deeper, and it is im-
perative that they fit tight. The line of sepa-
ration between the bark and wood in the cion
should meet as nearly as possible the similar
line in the stock. The cions are usually set a
trifle obliquely, the tops projecting outwards, to
insure the contact or crossing of the cambium
layers. Writers usually state that it is imper-
ative to success to have the exact lines be-
tween the bark and wood meet for at least the
greater part of their length, but this is an er-
ror. The callus or connecting tissue spreads
beyond its former limits when the wounds
begin to heal. The most essential points are/^. Rooted
rather to be sure that the cion fits tightly *$g£*^
throughout its whole length, and to protect (*%)•
the wound completely with an air-tight covering. The
practice must be modified, of course, to suit the stock and
the occasion. Sometimes rooted cuttings of grapes are
cleft-grafted (Fig. 124), and these, being in the ground,

are not waxed, and it is difficult
to split the stub deep enough to
allow the cion to be thrust in
far. If the stub, in this case,
has little elasticity after being
split, it should be tightly wound
to keep the cion in place. An
old grape stock, cleft-grafted,
and then covered with earth,
is seen in Fig. 125. These
covered grape stubs are usu-
ally not waxed. This is the common, and generally the
best, 'method of grafting the grape.

125. Cleft- grafting on old
grape stock.

122 GRAFT AGE.

The wounds must now be covered with wax. Fig. 126
illustrates a stub after the covering has been applied. If the
grafting is done in early spring, when the weather is cold, the
wax will have to be applied with a brush. The wax is
melted in a glue-pot, which is carried into the tree. But if
the weather is warm enough to soften the wax, it should be
applied with the hands. The hands are first
greased to prevent the wax from sticking. The
two side or vertical portions are applied first.
The end of the mass of wax in the hand is flat-
tened into a thin portion about a half inch wide.
This portion is then laid over the lower bud of the
cion and held there by the thumb of the other
hand, while the wax is drawn downwards over the
cleft, being pressed down firmly upon the bark by
the thumb of the first hand. The wax gradually
tails out until it breaks off just below the lowest
point of the cleft. The flattened upper part is
then wrapped around the cion upon either side,
completely and tightly encircling it. A simple
deft wrapping of the wax about the cion makes a
tighter joint than can be secured in twice the time
by any method of pinching it into place. Another
portion of wax is now flattened and applied over
the end of the stub. Most grafters apply a bit of
wax to the tops of the cion also. All the wounds
must be covered securely.

The top-grafting of large trees is an important
u^(^A)ed operation, and there are many men who make it
a business. These men usually charge by the stub
and warrant, the warrant meaning that one cion of the stub
must be alive when the counting is done late in summer.
From two to three cents a stub is a common price. A good
grafter in good "setting " can graft from 400 to 800 stubs a
day and wax them himself. Much depends upon the size
of the trees, their shape, and the amount of pruning which
must be done before the grafter can work in them handily.

TOP-GRAFTING OLD TREES.

123

Every man who owns an orchard of any extent should be
able to do his own grafting. The most important factor in
the top-grafting of an old tree is the shaping of the top.
The old top is to be removed during three or four or five
years, and a new one is to be grown in its place. If the
tree is old, the original plan or shape of the top will have

127. Top-grafted old tree.

to be followed in its general outlines. The branches
should be grafted, as a rule, where they do not exceed an
inch and a half in diameter, as cions do better in such
branches, the wounds heal quickly, and the injury to the
tree is less than when very large stubs are used. The op-
erator should endeavor to cut all the leading stubs at

124

GRAFTAGE.

approximately equai distances from the center of the tree ;

and then, to prevent the occurrence of long and pole-like

branches, various minor
side - branches should be
grafted. These will serve
to fill out the new top and
to afford footholds for prun-
ers and pickers. Fig. 127 is
a good illustration of an old
tree just top-grafted. Many
stubs should be set, and at
least all the prominent
branches should be grafted if the
tree has been well-trained. It is
better to have too

Ni Isv / } "iQny stubs and to be

\ / ^Jry / (I obh'ged to cut out

•\ N \ / V some of them in after

\j\\ Vx**S^ , / / years, than to have

too few. Small trees,
with a central axis
(such as have been
set only two or three
years) may be cut off
bodily, as at R in Fig.
128 ; such trees can
usually be changed
over in one or two
years. In thick-
topped trees, care
must be exercised not
to cut out so much foliage the first year that the inner
branches will sunburn. All large branches which must be
sacrificed ought to be cut out when the grafting is done,
as they increase in diameter very rapidly after so much of
the top is removed.
A horizontal branch lying directly over or under another

128. Stub for top-grafting a young tree.

TOP-GRAFTING OLD TREES.

125

should not be grafted, for it is the habit of grafts to grow
upright rather than horizontal in the direction of the
branch ; and it is well to split all stubs on such branches
horizontally, that one cion may not stand directly under
another. The habit of growth of the cion is well shown
in Fig. 129. This illustrates the form and direction of the
original branch, and also the direction which the yearling
grafts have taken. It is evident, therefore, that a top-grafted
tree is narrower and denser in top than the tree originally

was, and that careful pruning
is required to keep it suffi-
ciently open. Each graft is
virtually a new tree-top placed
into the tree, and for this rea-

129. Showing the upright direction of a graft in a horizontal limb.

son, if for no other, the common practice of grafting old
trees close down in the large limbs is seen to be pernicious
Top-grafting is performed in spring. The best time is
when the leaves are pushing out, as wounds made then heal
quickly, and cions are most apt to live. But when a large
amount of grafting must be done, it is necessary to begin a
month, or even two, before the leaves start. On the other
hand, the operation can be extended until a month or more
after the leaves are full-grown, but such late cions make a
short growth, which is likely to perish the following winter.
Professional grafters usually divide their men into three

126

GRAFTAGE.

gangs, — one to do the cutting of the stubs, one to set the
cions, and one to apply the wax. The cions are all whit-
tled before the grafter enters the tree. They are then usu-
ally moistened by dipping into a pail of water, and are
carried in a high side-pocket in the jacket. The handiest
mallet is a simple club or billy, a foot and half long, hung
over the wrist by a loose soft cord (Fig. 130). This is
brought into the palm of the hand by a swinging motion of
the forearm. This mallet is always in place, never drops
from the tree, and is not in the way.
The knife shown in Fig. 120 is com-
monly used. A downward stroke of
the mallet drives the knife into the
tree, and the return upward motion
strikes the knife on the outer end
and removes it. Another downward motion
drives in the wedge. The sharpened nails
and sticks commonly pictured as wedges in
cleft-grafting are useless for any serious
work. The common style of grafting-knife
sold by seedsmen, comprising a thin, broad
blade set in a heavy back-piece, is also of
little use. The blade is too thin to split the
stub. The various combined implements
which have been devised to facilitate cleft-
grafting are usually impracticable in commercial grafting.

It is very important that the cleft-graft should be kept
constantly sealed up until all the wounded surfaces are com-
pletely covered with the healing tissue. Old wood never
heals. Its power of growth is completed. If a limb of an
apple tree a half inch or more in diameter is cut off, the
heart or core of the wound will be found to be incapable of
healing itself. It is covered over by the callus tissue which
rolls in from the cambium underneath the bark. The
wound becomes hermetically sealed by the new tissue. In
the meantime, the wound should be kept antiseptic by some
dressing, like wax or paint, to prevent decay. In cieft-

Grafting-
tallct (xi-io).

• I

HEALING OF GRAFT WOUNDS. 127

grafts, the surfaces should be covered with wax every year
until they are closed in by the new tissue. In most in-
stances, the wax will loosen during the first season, and
sometimes it falls off.

The character of the healing process is well depicted in
Figs. 131, 132, 133. In Fig. 131 is shown a yearling graft of
apple. The strip of wax along the side of the cleft is seen
to have split with the enlargement of the branch, and the
cleft has filled up with tissue and is now safe from infection
of disease or
rot. The roll
of healing tis-
sue upon the
end of the'
stub is seen ^L ^ /J7- Cleft,

about the bor- ^k ^ graft a year

cler of the 1^ ^ | || after 5etttng

wound. This
tissue has not
yet covered
up the cleft
across the end of the
stub, and this cleft, if ex-
posed to the weather, is a
fertile place for the start-
ing of decay, for it does not unite
except along the sides of the stub
beneath the bark. When this stub is
split through, following the cleft, we may readily distinguish
the location of the healing tissues, Fig. 132. The ends of
the cions are at E, and they are now simply inactive and
nearly lifeless bits of wood. The new or healing tissue has
been built up on the outward side of the cions. On the left,
this deposition of new tissue may be traced as far down as
H, whilst it is thick and heavy at E and above. The whole
interior portion of the stub, represented by the dark shad-
ing, is dead tissue, which will soon begin a rapid process of

V
(

128

GRAFTAGE.

In time,

decay unless it is well protected from the weather.

the old stub becomes her-
metically sealed by the re-

parative tissue. Fig. 133

shows a section of an

apple graft nearly fifty

years old. The original

stub, about an inch in

diameter, is seen in the center,

the end of it entirely free from

the enclosing tissue. It is a dead

piece of wood, a foreign body pre-
served in the heart of the tree. The

depth of the old cleft or split is traced

in the heavily shaded portion. When

this section was made, the cores of the

old cions were still found in the cleft

and the grafting-wax— faithfully laid

on a half century ago— still adhered to

the end of the stub, underneath the
mass of tis-
sue which
had piled it-
self over the

old wound.

132. The stub 131 split

Cleft-grafting through the cleft, and seen
from the opposite side.

is put to vari-

ous other uses than the top- grafting
of old trees. It is in common use
on soft and fleshy stocks, as cactuses,
and various fleshy roots. Fig. 134 shows
a cleft-graft on cactus. The cion
is held in place with a pin or
cactus spine, and it is then bound
with raffia or other cord. Wax-
ing is not necessary. A similar
graft is often made on peony roots. The cleft in the thick

'33 Section of an old cleft-
graft on an apple tree

BARK-GRAFTING. I2Q

root is cut with a knife, and the stock is bound up se-
curely, usually with wire, as cord, unless waxed, rots off too
quickly. Wax is not used, as the graft is buried
to the top bud. The peony is grafted in summer.
Dahlias are often grafted in the same fashion,
although some operators prefer, in such fleshy
subjects, to cut out a section from the side of the
stock to receive the cion, rather than to make a
cleft, much as in the process of inlaying illustrated
in Fig. 116. Hollyhocks, ipomeas, gloxinias and
other thick-rooted plants may be similarly treated.
i34~Cieft- Bark-grafting. — A style of grafting suited to
graft of large trees is shown in Fig. 135. The stock is not
(xl/3). cleft, but the cions are pushed down between the
bark and wood. The cions must be cut very thin,
so that they will not break the bark on the stock. Fig. 136
represents a good style of cion. It is cut to a
shoulder upon either side. Several cions can
be placed in a single stub, and as no splitting is
necessary, it is a useful method for very large
limbs. It is especially useful in repairing trees
when very large branches are broken off. The
broken stub is sawn off smooth, and a dozen or
more cions may be set around it. Only a few
of them should be allowed to remain after the
wound has been healed. Bark-grafting can be
performed to advantage only when the bark
peels readily. The cions should be held in
place by a tight bandage, as seen in Fig. 135,
and then wax should be applied in essentially
the same manner as for cleft-grafting. This
is sometimes called crown-grafting.

A special form of bark-grafting is sometimes
employed for covering girdles about the base
of an old tree, made by mice, gophers or rab-
bits. The edges of the bark are trimmed,
cions are cut a couple of inches longer than the width of the

130 GRAFT AGE.

girdle, and they are sharpened at both ends. One end is
inserted under the bark below the girdle and the other
above it. The cions are placed close together entirely
around the tree. The two ends are held firmly in place by
tying, and the line of union is then waxed over. This opera-
tion is said to be necessary to keep up the connection be-
tween the root and the top, but this is in most cases
an error, unless the girdle extends into the wood.
A good dressing of wax or clay, held on with stout
bandages, is usually much better than the grafting.
This method of grafting is sometimes, but errone-
ously, called inarching. A complete bark girdle
made during the spring or early summer will usually
heal over readily if it is well bandaged ; and in
some cases even the bandage is not necessary.

Herbaceous-grafting. — In the preceding pages,
the discussions have had to do with cions which are
dormant or at least well hardened, and with stocks
which contain more or less hard woody substance.
But herbaceous shoots can be grafted with ease.
All such plants as geraniums, begonias, coleuses
and chrysanthemums can be made to bear two
or more varieties upon the same individual. Al-
.'36. most any style of grafting can be employed, but
bark- the veneer, cleft and saddle-grafts are preferred.

oots should be chosen for stocks which are rather
firm, or in the condition for making good cuttings.
The cions should be in a similar condition, and they may
be taken from the tips of branches or made of a section of
a branch. The union should be bound snugly with raffia,
and the plant set in a propagating-frame (Fig. 47 illustrates
a good one), where it must be kept close for a few days. It
is not necessary, in most cases, to use wax, and upon some
tender stocks the wax is injurious. Moss may be bound
about the graft, but unless the union is first thoroughly cov-
ered by the bandage, roots may start into the moss and the
parts may fail to unite. The growing shoots of shrubs and

SEED- AND CUTTING-GRAFTING. 131

trees can also be grafted, but the operation is rarely
employed. In various coniferous trees (as pines and
spruces) the young shoots are sometimes cleft or saddle-
grafted in May, the parts being well bandaged with waxed
muslin or raffia, and shaded with paper bags. The walnut
and some other trees which do not work readily are some-
times treated in this manner.

A little known species of herbaceous-grafting is the join-
ing of parts of fruits. It is easily performed upon all fleshy
fruits like tomatoes, apples, squashes and cucumbers.
When the fruit is half or more grown, one-half is cut away
and a similar half from another fruit is applied. Better
results follow if the severed side of the parent or stock fruit
is hollowed out a little, so as to let the foreign piece set into
the cavity. The edges of the epidermis of the stock are
then tied up closely against the cion by means of bass or
raffia. The two parts are securely tied together, but no wax
is required. This operation succeeds best under glass,
where conditions are uniform, and where winds do not
move the fruits.

Even leaves may be used as stocks or cions. Any such
succulent and permanent leaves as those of the house-
leeks, crassula, and the like, may have young shoots
worked upon them, and leaves which are used as cuttings
can often be made to grow on other plants.

Seed-grafting. — A novel kind of grafting has been de-
scribed in France by Pieron, which consists in using a seed
as a cion. This has been used upon the grape. A seed
is dropped into a gimlet-hole made near the base of the
vine while the sap is rising in the spring. The seed ger-
minates, and after a time the plantlet unites with the stock.

Cutting-grafting.— Cuttage and graftage may be com-
bined in various ways. Cuttings of plants which root with
difficulty are sometimes grafted upon those which root
easily. A good example is seen in Fig. 105. When the
plants are transplanted, the following: autumn or spring, the

132

GRAFT AGE.

nurse or stock can be removed, the cion having taken root.
Root-grafting, described on a previous page (see Figs. 103,
104, 114), is virtually a grafting of cuttings. In other cases,
union with an uncongenial stock is facilitated by allowing
the cion to project downwards beyond the point of union,
and to stand in the soil or moss or dish of water. (See,
also, page 112.) Fig. 137 is a good illustration of the
practice. The cion extends into the soil nearly as far as the
root itself. After union has taken place, the
lower part of the cion is removed. This
method can be used for some magnolias,
mulberries, birches, and many other plants
of which some kinds root with more or less
difficulty. "Bottle-grafting,'" described in
most of the books, is essentially this method,
modified by letting the end of the cion, or a
portion of the bandage, drop into a
bottle of water.

Inarching. -Inarching, or grafting
by approach, is the process of graft-
ing contiguous plants or branches
while the parts are both attached to
their own roots. When the
parts are united, one of them is
severed from its root. Fig. 138
explains the operation. In this
case, the larger plant (upon
the left) is designed for the stock,
plant has united, it is cut off just below the union and it
thenceforth grows upon the other plant. Limbs of contigu-
ous trees are sometimes grafted in this way. It is the pro-
cess employed by nature in what is called natural grafting
(Fig. 82). Grape-vines are often inarched. A thrifty young
branch of a fruit tree may be inarched into the stem of a fruit
upon the same tree, thus supplying the fruit with additional
food and causing it to grow larger than it might if untreated.

To join the parts, it is only necessary to remove the

137-

Cutting -grafting
When the smaller

DOUBLE- WORKING.

133

barks between the stock and cion and then tie the two

together snugly. The details are shown in

Fig. J39- In M, a branch c, is joined at o

to the stock H. Other branches, like T,

might be similarly treated. In N, the

method of cutting the conjoined sur-
faces is explained at R. If outdoors,

the junction should be waxed over ;

and it is then necessary, also, to

secure the branches in such manner

that the wind cannot loosen them.

The parts are sometimes joined by a

tongue, after the manner of a whip-graft,

but this is rarely necessary. Oranges and

camellias were often propagated by inarch-
ing in the old practice, but this work is

now much more easily done by the ve-
neer-graft.

Double-working. — Grafting upon

a grafted tree is known as double-
grafting or double-work-
ing. It is employed for the purpose of growing
a variety upon an uncon-
genial root, or of secur-
ing a straight and vigorous
stock for a weak and poor
grower. The operation
may be either grafting or
budding. It is more com-
monly the latter. Some
sorts of pears do not unite
well with the quince, and if
it is desired to secure
dwarfs of these varieties,
some variety which unites
readily with the quince
must first be put upon it.

138. Inarching.

134

GRAFTAGE.

The Angouleme takes well to the quince, and upon Angou-
leme dwarfs the Seckel and some other varieties are often
worked. In double-working dwarf pears, it is imperative
that both unions be very close to the ground. The piece
of interposed wood is not more than one or two inches
in length.

The second cion is usually set after the first one has
grown one season, although both may be set
at the same time. Double-grafting for the
purpose of securing a better growth is often
practiced. The Canada Red apple, for in-
stance, is such a poor grower
\l | V I that it is often stem-worked or

. I // / . .LoK^t. top-worked upon the No rthern
Spy or some other strong stock.
[N The Winter Nelis and the Joseph-
ine de Malines pears' are often
double-worked for the same rea-
son. Fig. 140 shows the top of a
double-worked tree. In this in-
stance, the body of the tree is
two years old and is itself a graft
or bud upon a seedling root.
The second variety is grafted at
140. A double-worked tree. the pomt where it is desired to

start the permanent top of the tree, by whip-grafting in this
instance. The figure on the left shows the two-year-old top
growing from this cion. The length of the cion is com-
prised inside the dotted lines, and this region is enlarged
in the figure on the right. The base of the cion was at T—
below which is stock — and the top at N. The upper scar
at N is the top of the cion itself, but the other scars show
where superfluous twigs were removed after the cion had
grown a year. This type of double-working of fruit-trees
is to be recommended for weak or wayward growers.

Grafting Waxes. — There are great numbers of recipes
for waxes or mastics for protecting grafts and covering

GRAFTING WAXES. 135

wounds upon trees. In this country, the resin and beeswax
waxes are most used, although some of the alcoholic waxes
are popular in some regions. In Europe, many clay and
pitch waxes are in common use. For most purposes, the
wax No. i, in the following list, will be found to be one of
the best, especially for applying by the hand. The soft al-
coholic waxes are apt to melt off exposed stubs in our hot
summer suns ; but they are useful for indoor work and for
cool weather. In making the resin and beeswax waxes,
the materials are first broken up finely and melted together.
When thoroughly melted, the liquid is poured into a pail
or tub of cold water. It soon becomes hard enough to
handle, and it is then pulled and worked over until it be-
comes tough or "gets a grain," at which stage it becomes
the color of very light-colored manilla paper. When wax
is applied by hand, the hands must be well greased. Hard
cake tallow is the best material for this purpose. ' In top-
grafting large trees, it is well to carry a supply of tallow
when waxing, by smearing the backs of the hands before
entering the tree.

Common Resin and Beeswax Waxes.

1. Resin, 4 parts by weight; beeswax, 2 parts; tallow,
i part.

2. Resin, 4 Ibs. ; beeswax, i Ib. ; tallow, i Ib.

3. Resin, 6 Ibs.; beeswax, 2 Ibs.; linseed oil, i pt.

4. Resin, 6 Ibs.; beeswax, i Ib.; linseed oil, i pt. Ap-
ply hot with a brush, one-eighth of an inch thick over all
the joints.

5. Resin, 4 Ibs. ; beeswax, i Ib. ; and from half to a pinl
of raw linseed oil ; melt all together gradually, and turn
into water and pull. The linseed oil should be entirely
free from cotton-seed oil. A hard wax, for use in warm
weather.

6. Resin, 6 parts ; beeswax, i part ; tallow, i part. To
be used warm, in the house.

136 GRAFTAGE.

7. Resin, 4 or 5 parts ; beeswax, \y2 to 2 parts ; linseed
oil, i to i>£ parts. For outdoor work.

Alcoholic Waxes.

8. Lefort's Liquid Grafting Wax, or Alcoholic Plastic. —
Best white resin, i lb.; beef tallow, i oz. ; remove from the
fire and add 8 ounces of alcohol. Keep in closed bottles
or cans.

9. Alcoholic Plastic with Beeswax. — Melt 6 parts white
resin with i part beeswax ; remove from stove and par-
tially cool by stirring, then add gradually — with continued
stirring — enough alcohol to make the mixture, when cool,
of the consistency of porridge. In the temperature of the
grafting-room it will remain sufficiently plastic to permit
applying to the cut surfaces with the finger.

10. Alcoholic Plastic with Turpentine.— Best white resin,
i lb. ; beef tallow, i oz. ; turpentine, i teaspoonful ; add
enough alcohol (13 to 15 fluid ounces of 95 per cent, alco-
hol) to mak<? the wax of the consistency of honey. Or,
less alcohol may be added if the wax is to be used with
the fingers.

French and Pitch Waxes.

11. Common French. — Pitch, J^lb.; beeswax, %\\>.\
cowdung, i lb. Boil together, melt, and apply with a
brush.

12. Common French Bandage Wax. — Equal parts of
beeswax, turpentine and resin. While warm spread on
strips of coarse cotton or strong paper.

13. Grafting Clay. — % cowdung, free from straw, and
% clay, or clayey loam, with a little hair, like that used in
plaster, to prevent its cracking. Beat and temper it for
two or three days until it is thoroughly incorporated.
When used it should be of such a consistency as to be
easily put on and shaped with the hands.

14. Resin, 2 Ibs. 12 ozs. ; Burgundy pitch, i lb. u ozs.

GRAFTING WAXES. 137

At the sam« time, melt 9 ounces of tallow ; pour the latter
into the former while both are hot, and stir the mixture
thoroughly. Then add 18 ounces of red ochre, dropping it
in gradually and stirring the mixture at the same time.

15. Black pitch, 28 parts ; Burgundy pitch, 28 parts ;
beeswax, 16 parts ; grease, 14 parts ; yellow ochre, 14 parts.

16. Black pitch, 28 Ibs.; Burgundy pitch, 28 Ibs.; yel-
low wax, 16 Ibs.; suet or tallow, 14 Ibs.; sifted ashes, 14
Ibs. When used, warm sufficiently to make it liquid, with-
out being so hot as to injure the texture of the branches.

17. Melt together \}£ Ibs. of clear resin and ^lb. of white
pitch. At the same time melt %\b. of tallow. Pour the
melted tallow into the first mixture, and stir vigorously.
Then before the stuff cools, add, slowly stirring meantime,

. of Venetian red. This may be used warm or cold.

Waxed String and Bandage.

18. Waxed String for Root-grafting. — Into a kettle of
melted wax place balls of No. 18 knitting cotton. Turn the
balls frequently, and in five minutes they will be thoroughly
saturated, when they are dried and put away for future use.
This material is strong enough, and at the same time breaks
so easily as not to injure the hands. Any of the resin and
beeswax waxes may be used. When the string is used, it
should be warm enough to stick without tying.

19. Waxed Cloth.— Old calico or thin muslin is rolled on
a stick and placed in melted wax. When saturated it is
allowed to cool by being unrolled on a bench. It is then
cut in strips to suit. Or the wax may be spread upon the
cloth with a brush.

Waxes for Wounds.

20. Any of the more adhesive grafting waxes are excel-
lent for dressing wounds, although most of them cleave off
after the first year. Stiff and ochreous paints are also good.

21. Coal-tar. — Apply a coating of coal-tar to the wound,

138 GRAFTAGE.

which has first been pared and smoothed. If the wound
contains a hole, plug it with seasoned wood.

22. Hoskins' Wax. — Boil pine tar slowly for three or four
hours ; add %\b. of beeswax to a quart of the tar. Have
ready some dry and finely sifted clay, and when the mixture
of tar and wax is partially cold, stir into the above named
quantity about 12 ounces of the clay ; continue the stirring
until the mixture is so stiff and so nearly cool that the clay
will not settle. This is soft enough in mild weather to be
easily applied with a knife or spatula.

23. Schaefell's Healing Paint. — Boil linseed oil (free from
cotton-seed oil ) one hour, with an ounce of litharge to each
pint of oil ; then stir in sifted wood ashes until the paint is
of the proper consistency. Pare the bark until smooth.
Paint the wound over in dry weather, and if the wound is
very large, cover with a gunny-sack.

24. Tar for Bleeding in Vines. — Add to tar about three
or four times its weight of powdered slate or some similar
substance. Apply with an old knife or flat stick.

25. Hot Iron for Bleeding in Vines. — Apply a hot iron
to the bare surface until it is charred, and then rub into the
charred surface a paste made of newly-burnt lime and
grease.

26. Collodion for Bleeding in Vines. — It may be applied
with a feather or small brush. In some extreme cases, two
or three coats will be needed, in which case allow the col-
lodion to form a film before applying another coat. Phar-
maceutical collodion is better than photographic.

4. NURSERY MANAGEMENT.

The greater part of the field nurseries of the United
States are engaged in raising grafted or budded plants. It
is germane to the present chapter, therefore, to add some
general notes upon the management of nurseries and nur-
sery lands. A large part of the management of these es-
tablishments, however, is pure business, and is governed

FERTILITY OF NURSERY LANDS. 139

by the general laws of trade, and lies outside the field of
the present discussion.

Nursery Lands. — The best land for general nursery pur-
poses is one which is heavy rather than light, containing a
good percentage of clay, and lying as nearly level as pos-
sible. Before trees are put upon it, the land should be
deeply and thoroughly worked for at least one season, and
if it is of such character as to hold surface water for two or
three days at a time, the area should be thoroughly tile-
drained. Nursery trees constitute a crop which occupies
the land for a number of years, and unless this land is in
good heart when the trees are planted, there will be little
opportunity to raise a good product. With fruit trees, the
age of the tree determines its salableness ; hence it is im-
perative that the growth within the given time be rapid and
strong. With ornamentals, however, the value is deter-
mined by the size of the specimen, with little reference to
its age. It therefore follows that lands which are not suf-
ficiently strong to allow of the profitable growing of fruit
trees may still be useful for growing ornamentals. In con-
sidering the question of the fertility of nursery lands, it is
first necessary to determine what are the proportions of the
chief elements of plant food which the trees remove from
the soil. Roberts ( Bulletin 103, Cornell Experiment Sta-
tion) gives the following figures upon this point :*

"Amounts and values of fertilizing constituents re-
moved by an acre of nursery trees in three years :

Apples. ' Pears. Peaches. Plums.

Lbs. Value. Lbs. Value. Lbs. Value. Lbs. Value.

Nitrogen 29.07 $4 36 24.83 $3 73 22.42 $3 36 19.75 $2 96

Phosphoric acid . . 10.13 71 7.83 54 5.42 38 4.42 31
Potash 19.73 89 13.33 60 11.75 53 "-50 S2

$5 96 $4 87 |4. 27 $3 79

"The above results show conclusively that but a small
amount of plant food is removed from the soil by the
growth of nursery stock. They also show that more phos-
phoric acid is removed by the apples and pears than by
*See, also, loth Rep. N. Y. State Exp. Sta., pp. 162-174

140 GRAFT AGE.

the peaches and plums ; but any ordinary soil, cultivated as
nursery lands are, should easily furnish in three years ten
times the plant food used by the trees. In order to com-
pare the drafts made by nursery stock and some of the
common crops raised in mixed husbandry, the following
statement will be useful : The amount of green corn neces-
sary to remove an equal amount of fertilizing ingredients
per acre, taking the average of the value of the nitrogen,
phosphoric acid and ^potash (14.72) removed by an acre of
the trees (3 years' growth), would be 4,779 pounds.

"Ensilage corn raised in drills usually yields from 12 to
20 tons per acre, and yet does not make drafts on the land
which preclude duplicating the yield the following sea-
son ; hence some other cause than soil exhaustion must be
found if the failure to grow a second crop of nursery trees
without intermediate crops is explained."

All experience proves that a crop of nursery trees does
not exhaust the land of its fertility. In fact, it is generally
considered that land from which trees have just been re-
moved is in the very best condition for a crop of beans,
wheat or potatoes. Yet, despite this fact, it is also gener-
ally considered that land can seldom raise two good
crops of nursery trees in succession. Land which has been
"treed" must be "rested" in grass 'or some other crop.
This disposition of land to refuse to grow two consecutive
crops of good trees is not an invariable rule, however.
The writer has known nursery land to produce good plum
trees for twenty consecutive years. One frequently sees
lands producing apple and cherry stocks for two or three
crops in succession. Plums seem to be particularly amena-
ble to this consecutive cropping, and they are benefited by
applications of stable manure. Some other species, as, for
example, the pear, do not take so kindly to treatment with
manure. Because of this common experience with indiffer-
ent trees grown upon treed land, nurserymen with a large
business prefer to rent land for the growing of trees. In
New York state, the common period of rental is five years,

HUMUS IN NURSERY LANDS. 14!

at a rate of about eight dollars per acre per year, for the
ordinary type of farm lands.

The reason for this condition of treed lands is that the
soil is injured in its physical texture by the methods of cul-
tivation and treatment. The best nursery lands are those
which contain a basis of clay, and these are the ones which
soonest suffer under unwise treatment. The land is kept
under high culture, and it is therefore deeply pulverized.
There is practically no herbage on the soil to protect it dur-
ing the winter. When the crop is removed, even the roots
are taken out of the soil. For four or five years, the land
receives practically no herbage which can rot and pass into
humus. And then, the trees are dug in the fall, often when
the soil is in unfit condition, and this fall digging amounts to
a fall plowing. The soil, deeply broken and robbed of its
humus, runs together and cements itself before the following
summer ; and it then requires three or four years of "rest"
in clover or other herbage crop to bring it back into its
rightful condition. This resting period allows nature to
replace the fiber in the soil, and to make it once more so
open and warm and kindly that plants can find a congenial
root-hold in it. It would seem, therefore, that some of this
mechanical injury to nursery lands might be prevented by
the growing of some cover crop between the rows late in
the season, to be plowed under the following spring. It is
well known that the plowing-in of very coarse manure
between the trees in fall or spring, for two or three years,
will sometimes so greatly improve the land that a second
good crop of trees can be grown upon the land with ease.
This is particularly true for plum trees, as already noted, but
the results do not seem to be so well marked for pears and
some other trees. It is probable that one reason for the
very general refusal of pear trees to follow pear trees is
the fact that they demand heavy clay, and this is just the
land which is most injured by nursery practices. Some
lands are naturally so loose and open in structure that two
or three crops of trees can be grown in succession, but

142 GRAFTAGE.

these lands contain little crude clay, and therefore do not
suffer quickly from the burning out of the humus.

Although the chemical analyses of nursery trees show
comparatively small amounts of the more important plant
foods, it may still often occur that nursery lands need fertil-
izing. Nitrogen is needed in comparatively large amounts.
This is the element which chiefly conduces to strong growth.
It is also the one which is most rapidly augmented by the
addition of humus and the improvement of the physical con-
dition of the soil, as recommended above. When nursery
stock is making a poor growth, the grower should first see
that the tillage of the soil is made as thorough and perfect as
possible, in order to supply additional plant food and to pre-
serve the soil moisture. He may then add nitrogen in the
form of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, sowing
them at the rate of ?oo to 400 Ibs. to the acre. The appli-
cation should be made in spring or early summer. He
should then be sure that insect or fungous attacks are
averted. If the land was originally in fit condition for trees,
and adapted to them, these suggestions should afford relief.

Grades of Trees. — Common opinion demands that a
tree, to be first-class, must be perfectly straight and comely.
This arbitrary standard is but the expression of the general
demand for large and handsome trees. But there are some
varieties of fruit trees which cannot be made to grow in a
comely fashion, and hence there is always a tendency to
discontinue growing them, notwithstanding the fact that
they may possess great intrinsic merit. All this is to be
deplored. The requirements of a first-class tree should be
that the specimen is vigorous, free from disease or blem-
ishes, and that it possess the characteristics of the variety.
This allows a crooked tree to be first-class if it is a Green-
ing or Red Canada apple, because it is the nature of these
varieties to grow crooked. A crooked or wayward grower
is not necessarily a weak one. It is advisable to top-work
weak-growing varieties upon strong-growing and straight-
growing ones (see page 1.34).

WHAT IS A FIRST-CLASS TREE ? 143

A first-class tree is well grown ; that is, the various
operations to which it has been subjected by the nurseryman
have been properly performed. It must be mature ; that is,
not stripped of its leaves before the foliage has thoroughly
ripened. It must be of the proper age for planting. It
must have a clean, smooth bark. It must have a stocky,
strong trunk, good roots, and be free of borers and other
insect injuries. The union— at the bud or graft— must be
completely healed over. Stocky and
rather short trees, with well-branched
heads, are always preferable to very tall
ones. Very slender trees, if above one
or two years old, should be avoided.
Nurserymen express the size of a tree by
its diameter about three inches above the
bud. The measuring is usually done by
a caliper. The diameter of a first-class
tree varies with the method of growing
and trimming it. In the New York nur-
series, a first-class two-year-old apple tree
(budded) should caliper five-
eighths to three-fourths of an inch.
Plums run about the same. Pears
will generally run a sixteenth of
an inch less, and sour cherries
about a sixteenth more. Sweet '"• Self'rce&peerr™g
cherries will run three-fourths inch

and above. Nurserymen use various instruments <for gaug-
ing the diameter of stock. The old-fashioned caliper is
most commonly employed. An excellent modification of
this device is the self-registering caliper, seen in Fig. 141.
Heikes' tree-gauge, made of sheet steel, is shown in
Fig. 142.

The Storing of Trees. — Of late years, the nursery busi-
ness has been greatly benefited by the free use of cellars for
the storing of stock. In these cellars the stock is safe from
winter injury, and it can be moved to customers before the

144 GRAFTAGE.

nursery land is fit to dig in the spring. These cellars make
the nurseryman somewhat independent of conditions of
weather and trade, and they ensure to the planter quick
delivery of stock which shows no winter injury. A common
style of nursery cellar is shown in Fig. 143. It is a wooden
structure, commonly a third or quarter below the surface
of the ground, with hollow walls and a tarred and gravelled
roof. It should be provided with ample facilities for ventila-
tion, either by means of windows along the sides or flues in
the roof, or both. It has a dirt floor. In this building, the
trees are heeled-in very thickly in the fall. The trees are
either stood straight up, or they may be piled in tiers.

142. Heikes" tree gauge.

These tiers are made up of overlapping horizontal layers laid
in opposite directions. The roots of the first layer are laid
towards the center and damp sand thrown over them. Upon
these are laid the roots of the second layer, with the tops in
the opposite direction. Dirt is again thrown on, when
another layer like the first is added. The tops are, therefore,
always outward. These tops should lie a little higher than
the roots, and in order to raise them, and also to bind the
pile, scantlings or boards are laid crosswise of the layers, at
ine outward end, at intervals. Moss may be used in place
of sand, although the latter is more easily obtained and kept,
and is generally used. In piling or cording trees in this
fashion, it is important that a sufficient passage or alley be
left between each pile to admit of free circulation of air.
A passage through which a man can just pass is sufficient.

WINTER STORING OF TREES. 145

A cellar a hundred feet long, twenty feet wide, and ten feet
high in the clear, will winter about 25,000 three-year-old
apple trees, if the trees are corded, as already described.
These storage cellars soon engender mold or fungus if
they are allowed to become too warm or too close. Cel-
lars with floors as high as the surface of the ground keep
"sweeter" than those which are sunken. The remedy for
this fungus, which often does great damage to stock, is to
keep the house well aired, and then to kill it out by fumi-
gating. A common practice is to burn shavings or sawdust
in the cellar, and then open the doors and windows and air
the place. If the smudge is dense, the fungus is said to be
easily destroyed. Evaporating sulphur — not burning it —
upon an oil stove is also effective. Place the sulphur in a

143- Storage cellar.

pan and set this pan in another of about the same size, in the
bottom of which is a layer of sand a half inch thick. Place
both of them upon the stove, and allow the sulphur to melt
and evaporate, filling the house with the fumes. The layer
of sand will prevent the sulphur from catching fire, unless it
is allowed to run over. Burning sulphur quickly kills all
plants which are in active growth. Its action upon dormant
nursery stock is unknown to the writer. A low temperature
and an abundance of fresh air, however, are the best safe-
guards against fungus. They are also essential to the pre-
servation of the bright, vivid color of the stock. Trees
which are wintered in close and warm cellars look dull in
the spring. The temperature should be kept as near freez-

146 GRAFTAGE.

ing as possible. When the stock is not being handled, a
slight frost does no damage.

In heeling-in trees in the open for the winter, care should
be exercised to select a well-drained and protected place.
The roots are placed in furrows and covered, and the tops
are laid down almost horizontal. Another row is lapped
over the first, much as shingles are lapped over each other.
Loose straw or litter about the place should be removed or
tramped down, else mice may rest in it and girdle the trees.
An excellent device to keep mice out of a heeling-in yard
is to place a foot board on edge all about the place, leaning
the top out a little. Hold the boards in place by stakes,
close up the cracks, and tramp the earth against the bot-
tom of the boards, and the mice are completely fenced out.
If it is necessary to cover the tops of peach and other
tender trees, evergreen boughs will be found to be the
most satisfactory protection.

Trimming Trees in the Nursery.— One of the chief efforts
of the nurseryman is to make his trees stocky. Many fac-
tors conspire to produce this result. Any treatment which
makes trees grow vigorously may be expected to contribute
to their stockiness, if the grower does not circumvent it by
some subsequent operation. The trees should be given
plenty of room. The rows in the nursery should stand
3J^ feet apart, for ordinary fruit trees, and the plants should
stand 10 inches or a foot apart in the row. During this
first year, the leaves should not be rubbed off the bodies
of the trees, else the trees will grow too much at the top
and become too slender. If, however, strong forking or
side branches appear low down — as often happens in sour
cherries — they should be removed. Budded stock should
reach a height of 4 feet or more the first year. The fol-
lowing spring, the stock is headed-in uniformly, reducing
it to the height of 3 or 4 feet, according to kind and the
uses for which the stock is grown. In New York nur-
series, the average apple stock is headed back to a height
of about 3 feet 3 inches to 3 feet 5 inches. Sweet cherries

TRIMMING. DWARFING. 147

are headed 2 to 3 inches taller. Sour cherries are gener-
ally not headed-in, because they make a less tall growth ;
but if they go much above 3 feet they are headed back.
Soon after the trees are headed back this second spring,
they are "sprouted." This operation consists in hoeing
the dirt away from the base of the tree and cutting off all
sprouts which start from the root or the crown. After
heading-in, the tree "feathers out" from top to bottom.
It is a common practice to rub off these new shoots which
appear upon the body, allowing only those shoots to remain
which spring from near the top of the trunk, and which are
presumed to form the top of the future tree. This rubbing
off of the side shoots early in the second season is gener-
ally to be condemned. It tends to make the tree grow
top-heavy, whilst the body remains spindling and weak.
A better plan is to allow the shoots to remain until July
or early August, when they are cut off close to the trunk.
The wounds will then heal over, or nearly so, by fall, and
the tree will have grown strong and stocky.

Dwarfing. — The dwarfing of trees depends upon two
factors, — working upon a slow-growing stock, and subse-
quent heading-in. In particular cases, dwarfing is also
accomplished by growing the trees in pots or boxes. The
nurseryman supplies the first factor, — the tree united to the
dwarf root. But this factor alone rarely insures a perma-
nently dwarf tree. The vigorous top will soon impart
some of its habit to the stock ; and if the tree is planted
so deep that the union is a few inches below ground, roots
may start from the cion, and the tree will become half-
dwarf, or even full standard. The capability of keeping
the tree dwarf lies mostly with the grower, although, unfor-
tunately, the grower usually ascribes it wholly to the nur-
seryman. An excellent illustration of all this is afforded
by the cherry. If cherry trees are to be dwarfed, they are
to be worked upon the Mahaleb cherry ; and yet the greater
part of the sweet cherries, and some ok the sour ones, are
budded upon Mahaleb roots in eastern nurseries, but our

148 GRAFTAGE.

cherry trees are not dwarfs thereby. If, however, the
grower were to head-in his Mahaleb-worked cherries
each year, in the same way as he is advised to treat
his dwarf pears, he would be able to have dwarf trees.
In like manner, the plum upon the Myrobalan plum, the
peach upon the plum, the apple upon the Doucin or even
upon the Paradise, soon cease to be dwarfs if allowed
to grow to their utmost. The pear upon the quince
affords the most complete dwarf fruit tree which we have,
but even this soon ceases to be a true dwarf if heading-in
is neglected.

There are many varieties of plants which are dwarf by
nature, and they therefore do not require to be worked
upon slow-growing stocks. The Paradise apple is itself
such a natural dwarf, and was originally a seedling. (For
an account of dwarf apples, see Lodeman, Bulletin 116,
Cornell Experiment Station.) Dwarf spruces, pines, vi-
burnums, beans, dahlias, and scores of other plants are
well known. Such dwarfs are generally propagated by
means of cuttings, although some of them, as the garden
vegetables and annual flowers, reproduce themselves from
seeds. The particular methods of dealing with these vari-
eties are detailed under the respective species in the next
chapter.

Root-grafted vs. Budded Trees.— There has been a most
controversial discussion of the relative merits of root-grafted
and budded fruit trees these many years. For the most
part, this discussion has been unprofitable, for there has
been litttle earnest effort to arrive at any just or exact
method of comparison. The disputants have too often dealt
in generalized statements, and it must be said that preju-
dice, and the desire to advocate the particular stock which
one is growing, are not unknown to these discussions.
Some experiments have been tried for the purpose of deter-
mining the relative merits of the two methods of propaga-
tion, but none of the experimenters seem to have really
analyzed the subject or to have arrived at any truthful

ROOT-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. 149

conclusions. We must approach the subject in an analyti-
cal spirit if we are to hope for useful results.

Before proceeding to a discussion of the comparative
effects of budding and root-grafting, it is essential that cer-
tain definitions be clearly fixed in the mind. The budding
of fruit-stocks in the nursery is performed in the summer
time upon stocks which were set in the spring, as fully
explained on pages 94 to 105. These stocks are trimmed
or "dressed" before they are set in the nursery. Root-
grafting, as already explained (See Figs. 103, 104), is the
setting of a cion upon a root. If the entire root is used, the
operation is known as whole-root-grafting. In this case,
the cion is set at the crown and the root is dressed in much
the same way that the stock is dressed when it is to be used
for budding. If only a portion of the root is used as stock
(as in Fig. 103), the operation is known as piece-root-graft-
ing. It is this particular operation which is ordinarily
understood when people speak of root-grafting. It is ap-
parent that the various pieces made of the root may not be
comparable. The top piece includes the crown, at which
point the cion is inserted. The lowest piece comprises the
tip, or smallest, and therefore weakest, portion of the root.
Ordinarily, about three pieces are made of a root in the
root-grafting of apple stocks.

It is evident that there are two distinct problems con-
cerned in the consideration of the comparative merits of
budded and root-grafted trees. One has to do with the
comparison of the budding with the grafting, and the other
with the different methods of trimming or cutting the stocks.
It is perfectly well known that, in general, budding and
grafting are equally efficacious methods of propagation,
other things being equal. In other words, the mere fact that
one tree comes from a bud and another from a cion should
make no necessary difference in the value of the tree. All
the characteristic differences between budded and root-
grafted trees are due to the methods of trimming the stocks,
and not to the actual methods of propagation.
K

I5O GRAFTAGE.

It is indisputable that there is great difference in the
root system between the ordinary budded tree and the
ordinary root-grafted tree. The roots of the root-grafted
tree, as it leaves the nursery, are comparatively shallow and
horizontal, and are generally prongy and strongly developed
on one side or another of the tree. It is well known, of
course, that different varieties of apples develop a different
root system in the nursery row, but the same variety ordi-
narily has a very different root development when propa-
gated by budding and by common root-grafting. The writer
has seen this difference so uniformly for so many years, and
upon such an extent and variety of stock, both east and
west, that he has no hesitation in positively affirming that,
as generally grown, the root system of budded trees is
unlike that of root-grafted trees.

This difference in root development pro-
ceeds from the method of cutting the stock. In
other words, if the pieces of roots were budded
they would undoubtedly develop the same sys-
tem of roots that they do when grafted. The
philosophy of it will become apparent
upon a moment's reflection. The
short piece of root has fewer side
rootlets than the whole or long root.
It is these side rootlets which develop
into the main branches of the root
system. The root system of the piece-root
must, therefore, be shallower at first start than
that of the whole root, because the axis is
shorter. Moreover, these side rootlets do not
develop simultaneously upon all sides of the
main axis. They are scattered along the axis. 144. New roots
A section or piece of the root may contain
rootlets only on one or two sides of the axis,
and as these rootlets grow the system becomes one-sided.
There is still another reason for the prongy and one-sided
character of the root-system, of piece-roots. The piece of

ROOT-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES.

root is essentially a cutting. Every gardener knows that
roots seldom start symmetrically from all sides of the end
of a cutting. Fig. 144 (from a photograph) shows young
roots springing off from the end of a
cutting. All three of them start from
nearly a common point. It is a one-
sided or unsymmetrical system. Fig.
145 shows two root-grafts, drawn from
life, as they had grown at the expira-
tion of two months after they were planted
in the nursery. They show the same pecu-
liarities of root development as the cutting
does in Fig. 144.

The reader now desires to know why
the same one-sided method of root growth
does not take place at the end of the root
in the budded tree, for these stocks are
dressed or trimmed— that is, the tips of the
roots are cut off— before they are set in the
nursery row. The whole question turns
upon how much the roots of the stocks are
cut back. If only the very tip is

V>^^ cut off, and there is a strong root

\ \\ k development above it, this tip will
' ' ^ simply heal over and develop no
side roots, or else what side roots
do develop will be very weak. This
is practically wh#t takes place in the
145- young root grafts. common treatment of budding stock.
If, however, the root were very severely cut back, the same
development would no doubt start from the tip of the
budded stock as from that of the root-grafted stock. Fig.
146, from life, shows how this may occur. The stock on
the left is budded, that on the right grafted. Both were
severely headed-in (cut off at T), and both have developed
prongy roots. The budded stock was much longer than the
other, however, and, therefore, its root system is stronger.

152

GRAFTAGE.

146. Budding

and grafting
on piece-roots.

The whole question, therefore, is one of comparative
length and strength of roots (or stocks). A whole-rooted
tree should be stronger and have
a more symmetrical root system,
at a given age, than a piece-
rooted tree. Yet there have been
frauds committed in
the name of whole-
rooted trees. As a
matter of fact, there
can be no perfectly
whole-rooted trees
unless the bud or
cion is set upon
a seedling stock
which stands in its

original position, for some of the main
root axis is broken off in the process
* of digging. Yet, if stock is well dug,
this shortening-in of the tip of the root is so
slight as to be practically of no account.

If the pieces of roots are very short in the
making of root-grafts, the graft has too little
power to enable it to make a strong growth
the first year. It is a very common practice
to cut off the entire top of the root-grafted
tree at the end of the first year, in order to
get a strong and straight body the following
year. This practice is perfectly justifiabl e
only that the grower counts the age of his
tree from the date of the cut-back, and no*

from the date of the grafting,
grafted trees are very likely to
make such a short growth the
first season that if the terminal
bud should be winter-killed, the
tree will branch too low, or if a

Root

. Root-graft, headed back

ROOT-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. 153

leader starts from a lateral bud the body will be crooked.
A good nurseryman always wants his first season's growth
to be high enough to form the entire body of the tree. If
this body is obliged to grow on from its terminal bud the
second season, the annual ring can be plainly seen on the
body — an indisputable mark of age, which the customer
will be quick to discern. Fig. 147, from life, shows a com-
mon method of (Dealing with root-grafted trees. The union
is at A, and the top of the original cion at B. At the end
of the first season (or the following spring), the tree was cut

148. Ben Davis trees, budded and root-grafted.

back to c. The nurseryman will count the age of his tree
from the point c.

At the same actual age, and grown in the same place, the
budded tree is nearly always larger than the root-grafted
tree, as ordinarily grown. The longer and better the piece
of root upon which the graft is made, however, the less
the difference will be. The illustrations, all from actual and
typical trees, show some of these differences. Fig. 148
shows six Ben Davis apple trees grown in a New York
nursery. The two trees upon the left are budded. The
other four are root-grafted. The two middle trees had
been transplanted, but the two upon the right stood where
the grafts were planted. It will be seen how completely the
transplanting has broken up the tendency to tap-roots and

154

GRAFTAGE.

prongs, and has developed a more symmetrical root system.
The root system of the budded trees is deeper and more
symmetrical because the stocks or roots were longer. Figs.
149 and 150 each show, beginning at the left, Fallawater,
Golden Russet, Hubbardston and Gravenstein apple trees.

Root-grafted trees.

Those in Fig. 149 are first-class three-year budded trees
from an eastern nursery. Those in Fig. 150 are first-class
three-year root-grafted trees from a western nursery. The
disparity in sizes of short-piece-root trees and budded trees
gf like actual age, is well seen in Figs. 151 and 152. They

ROOT-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. 155

are Mann apples. In Fig. 151, the piece- root-grafts, upon
the left, are two years from the graft ; the buds, upon the
right, are of like age. In Fig. 152, the piece-root-grafts,
upon the left, are three years old, and the buds, upon the
right, are two years. The different root systems of the two
are apparent in each case.

All these comparisons are not made for the purpose of
showing that root-grafts are inferior to buds, but simply that
they are different from them. Yet, the author is convinced
that very many of the root-grafted trees are made with
such short and weak pieces of roots that the trees are dis-
tinctly inferior. The practice of
root-grafting fruit trees has almost
disappeared from the east. East-
ern buyers generally desire strong,
heavy trees, with deep and full
root systems ; and there is an
opinion — though not resting upon
definite experiments — that the
deep-rooted budded trees enter
deeper into the ground and make
longer-lived trees than the root-
grafted samples.

The entire question of the ulti-
mate merits of the two classes of
trees rests, therefore, more upon
the way in which the stocks are
trimmed and handled when the(
propagating is done, than upon the
mere fact of their being budded
or root-grafted. Root-grafting has
distinct merits in the northwest,
where own-rooted trees are de-
sired (see Fig. 104), and it cheap- /5/. Piece-root-grafts and duds,
ens propagation; but as propa- two years old.

gating is ordinarily done in our nurseries, the author is
distinctly of the opinion that, as a rule, the budded apple

156 GRAFTAGE.

tree is a stronger and better tree, as it leaves the nur-
sery, than the root-grafted tree is when of the same age
and when grown under the same conditions. He is equally
convinced, on the other hand, however, that it is possible
to grow as good trees by root-grafting as by budding.

NOTE.— The student, who may desire to pursue the subject of graftage
further, should p ocure Charles Ballet's "L'Art de Greffer." There is
an English edition.

152 Pifce-root-grafts and buds, two
and three years respectively.

CHAPTER VI.

THE NURSERY LIST.
Aaron's Beard. See Hypericum.
Abelia. Caprifoliacece.

In spring by layers under a frame, and in summer by
cuttings.

Abies (Fir). Conifer ce.

Propagated by seeds, which are usually kept dry over
winter and sown in spring in frames or in protected bor-
ders. Cones should be fully matured before being gath-
ered. If they hold the seeds tightly they should be placed
in a dry place, sometimes even in an oven, until the scales
spread. In some species, as the Balsam fir, the cones
drop and fall to pieces as soon as ripe, and these cones
must be gathered just before they begin to fall. The
seeds may be separated by rubbing them in the hands,
when they are thoroughly dry, then winnowing them out
through a sieve. In order to obtain stocky plants, the
seedlings should be vransplanted the following spring.
The named varieties and the species which do not pro-
duce sufficient seed are winter-worked upon seedling
stocks which are potted in the fall. Cuttings of growing
tips set in sand in a close, well-shaded house or frame
are often successful. (See Figs. 47 and 67, and page 64. )
Stocks the size of a lead pencil are commonly used. One-
year-old seedlings are usually preferred, but in some cases
the requisite size is not reached until the second or third
year. Any of the common operations of grafting may be
employed, but the veneer-graft is best. The conifers
are not difficult to graft. The European Silver fir (Abies
pectinata] or the Balsam fir may be used as a stock, but
the common Norway spruce is now the most popular
stock for species of both Abies and Picea (see Picea),

(157)

158 THE NURSERY LIST.

Abobra. Cucurbitacecz :

Propagated by seeds, or rarely by soft cuttings.

Abroma. Sterculiacecz.

By seeds sown in March. By cuttings made in spring
from half-ripened wood, and placed under a bell-glass.

Abronia (Sand Verbena). Nyctaginacetf.

Propagated by seeds sown in autumn or spring, after
the outer skin has been peeled off. Sow in pots of sandy
soil, and keep in a frame until the following spring ; then
place in their flowering quarters. By young cuttings, set
in spring, in sandy soil.

Abrus. Leguminosce.

Propagated by seeds raised in heat or by cuttings under
a hand-glass, in sand.

Abutilon. Malvacetz.

Sow seeds in pans, with same soil and temperature as
for cuttings. By cuttings from young wood, at almost any
season ; the best time, however, is spring or fall. Insert
in pots, in a compost of equal parts peat, leaf mold, loam
and sand, and place in a temperature of 65° to 75°.

Acacia. Leguminosce.

Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe, in sandy peat,
about one-fourth inch deep, or a little more for large
seeds. Soak in hot water 24 hours if seeds are not fresh.
Keep temperature about 55° or 60°, and pot off when
large enough to handle. By cuttings of the half-ripened
wood, put in with a heel, in equal parts peat and sand,
covered with pure sand. Insert the cuttings as soon as
made ; water, and leave them in the shade till dry. Place
under a bell-glass, shade and water to prevent flagging.
Pot off when rooted, and keep in a close pit or house until
the plants are thoroughly established. A. pubescens and
some others will strike from root-cuttings. See, also,
Robinia.

Acalypha. Euphorbiacea \

Propagated by cuttings in sandy soil under a glass, in
stove heat, during late winter or in spring. Native spe-
cies by seeds.

Acanthephippium. Orchidacete.

Propagated by dividing the pseudo-bulbs as soon as,
growth commences, (See under Orchids.)

ACANTHOPANAX ACHIMENES. 159

Acanthopanax. Like Aralia.

Acanthophcenix. Palmacece.

Propagated by seeds, sown in a moist bottom heat, in
a well decomposed compost of one part loam, one of
peat, one of leaf mold, and one of sand.

Acanthus (Bear's Breech). Acanthace<z.

Propagated by seeds sown in gentle heat, or by division
of the root in autumn or early spring. Also by root-
cuttings. Water carefully.

Acer ( Maple ) . Sapindacece.

Stocks are grown from stratified seeds, which should
be sown an inch or two deep. Some very early-ripening
species, as A. dasycarpum and A. rubrum (the silver or
soft maple and the red maple), come readily if seeds are
simply sown as soon as ripe. They will not keep well
until the next spring. Varieties are often layered, but
better plants are obtained by grafting. The Japanese
sorts are winter-worked on imported A. polymorphum
stocks, either by whip- or veneer-grafting. Varieties of
native species are worked upon common native stocks.
Maples can also be budded in summer, and they grow
(generally with some difficulty) from cuttings of soft and
ripe wood.

Aceras. Orchidacecz.

Propagated by carefully made divisions of the tubers.
(See under Orchids. )

Achillea. Including Ptarmica (Yarrow, Milfoil). Com-
posite.

Propagated by seeds, root divisions and cuttings, dur-
ing spring.

Achimenes, including Scheeria. Gesneracecz.

Propagated by seeds, carefully sown in well-drained
pans, which are filled nearly to the rim, leveled, and well
watered with a fine rose. Sow seed and cover lightly
with sand, and place in a shady position. Keep moist,
and apply water very lightly. Place a sheet of glass over
the seed-pan. After large enough to be pricked off, treat
like rooted cuttings. By scales of the corms, rubbed off
and sown like seeds, barely covered with sand, and
placed in bottom heat. By leaves, set into pots of sim-
ilar soil as for cuttings, placing all the petiole below the
surface, and placed in bottom heat._ (Fig. 81.) By cut-

160 THE NURSERY LIST.

tings from any portion of the stem ; insert in a soil of equal
parts of peat and sand, in well-drained pots, in bottom
heat.

Achras. See Sapota.
Achyranthes. See Iresine.

Aconitum (Aconite, Monk's Hood, Wolfs Bane). Ranun-

culacecs.

Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe in a coldframe
or border ; also by division. Roots should not be left
about, for they are very poisonous.

Acorns. See Quercus.
Acorus. Aroidece.

Propagated during spring by divisions.

Acrophyllum. Saxifragacea.

Increased by cuttings of the half-ripened shoots, which
strike freely in a soil of sand and peat ; cover with a
hand-glass, and place in a cool house. The roots should
be kept moist.

Acrostichum. See Ferns.

Actaea (Baneberry). Ranunculacece \

Propagated by seed and by division of roots during
spring.

Actinidia. Ternstrazmiace<z.

Propagated by seeds, layers or cuttings. The cuttings
should be put in sandy soil, in autumn, under a hand-
light.

Actinetus. Umbelliferce.

Increased by seeds sown on a hotbed in spring, and in
May the seedlings may be transplanted to the open border
in a warm situation, where they will flower and seed
freely. Divisions of the roots grow readily.

Ada. Orchidacece.

Propagated by divisions as soon as the plant com-
mences growth. (See under Orchids.)

Adamia. Saxifragacece.

Increased by seeds ; by cuttings, which will root readily
in a compost of loam, peat and sand, under a hand-glass.

ADAM'S NEEDLE — ASCHYNANTHUS. 161

Adam's Needle. See Yucca.

Adenocarpus. Leguminosce.

Seeds may be sown in March, the hardy species put-
doors, and the others in a cold house. Young cuttings
root freely in sand, if covered with a hand-glass.

Adenophora. Campanulacecz.

Propagated by seeds, sown as soon as ripe, in pots
placed in coldframes. Also by suckers.

Adenostoma. Rosacece.

Propagated by cuttings of the young shoots, placed in
sand, under glass, in spring or autumn.

Adina. Rubiacecz.

Propagated by cuttings placed in rich, loamy soil, under
a hand glass, in heat.

Adlumia (Allegheny Vine, Smoke Vine, Mountain Fringe).

Fumariacece.

Propagated by seeds. The plant is a biennial, bloom-
ing the second season only.

Adonis. Ranunculacece.

Propagated by seeds. The perennials may be divided
at the root.

.ffigle ( Bengal Quince, Citrus trifoliata}. Rutacecs.

Propagated by ripe cuttings, which will root in sand
under a hand-glass, in heat, if not deprived of any of their
leaves. Also by seeds.

brides. Orchidace<z.

The only method of propagating this genus is by re-
moving the upper portion and planting it separately. It
should always be severed low enough to include a few
roots, otherwise a large proportion of leaves will be lost.
A somewhat dense shade, a moist atmosphere and careful
watering are essential until the young plant is established.
The old stool will soon send out lateral growths, which,
in time, may be separated and treated similarly. Vanda,
Saccolabium, Angraecum, Renanthera, are increased in the
same way. (See under Orchids. )

.ffischynanthus. Gesneracecz.

Propagated by seeds, which are very unsatisfactory.
By cuttings, which root freely in a well-drained pot, filled

102 THE NURSERY LIST.

with a light compost, and having a surface of pure white
sand, about one inch deep, during spring. The best are
obtained from half-ripened wood, cut into two or three-
inch lengths, and all leaves, with the exception of one or
two at the top, removed. Cover the cuttings with a bell-
glass, and place in moderate bottom heat. When rooted,
transfer singly to small pots, place under hand-glasses
until thoroughly established, then gradually harden off.

.aSschynomene. Leguminoscz.

Propagated by seeds, those of the herbaceous species
requiring a good heat to start them into growth. By cut-
tings, placed in sand under a bell-glass, in a brisk heat.

JEsculus (Horse Chestnut, Buckeye). Sapindacece.

Propagated by stratified seeds sown in single rows in
spring, and by layers made in the spring or fall ; or by
grafting or budding on the common horse chestnut or
native buckeye, usually under glass.

Aganisia. Orchidacece.

Propagated by dividing the pseudo-bulbs just before
starting into new growth. (See under Orchids.)

Agapanthus (African Lily). Liliacece.

Propagated by offsets, or by divisions of the old plants
in early spring.

Agaricus. See Mushroom.

Agathaea (species of Felicia). Composites .

Seeds and layers. Young cuttings root freely, in a
gentle heat, at all times.

Agathosma. Rutacece.

Increased by cuttings, which, when young, root freely
in a pot of sand, under a bell-glass, in a cool house.
They require to be shaded somewhat in the summer.

Agati. Leguminosce.

Increased by cuttings, which will root in a pot of sand
with a hand-glass over them, placed in heat.

Agave. Amaryllidace.ee.

Increased by seeds, to secure the production of which
the flowers generally need to be pollinated. Usually by
suckers, which spring naturally from the old plant.

AGERATUM — ALlSMA. 163

JSkC£

Ageratum, Cselestina. Composites.

Sow the seeds in January, in heat, in sandy soil. When
large enough, prick them off into thumb pots, and keep
in heat till they grow freely ; then place them in a cooler
house. Cuttings are commonly used for propagation.

Agrostis (Bent Grass). Graminece.

Increased easily by seeds, sown in spring in the open
border.

Ailanthus (Tree of Heaven). Simarubacece.

Propagated by suckers ; and by pieces of the roots
planted in a pot with their points above the ground, and
placed in a hotbed. Seeds are used when large quanti-
ites are desired.

Ajuga (Bugle). Labiatce.

Perennials, propagated by seeds sown in the open bor-
der, during spring or autumn ; by divisions. Annuals, by
seeds.

Akebia. Berberidacece.

Seeds. Layers of young or ripe wood. Dormant (or
firm wood) cuttings, under glass in summer.

Albuca. Liliacece.

Propagated by seeds and by offsets (bulbels) from the
old bulb.

Alchemilla (Lady's Mantle). Rosacece.

Propagated by seeds or by divisions of the roots.
Alder. See Alnus.
Aleurites. Euphorbiacece.

Propagated by ripe cuttings in sand, under a hand
glass. Do not remove leaves.

Alexandrian Laurel. See Ruscus.
Alfalfa. See Medicago.
Algaroba Bean. See Carob.

Alhagi (Manna Tree). Leguminosa.

Increased by seeds sown in a hotbed ; and by cuttings
rooted in sand, with a bell-glass over them, in heat.

Alisma (Water Plantain). Alismacece.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in a pot

104 THE NURSERY LIST.

immersed in water and filled with loam, peat and sand;
also by divisions, which root well in a moist, loamy soil.

Allamanda. Apocynacecs.

Layers. Shoot cuttings will root well at anytime of
the year in a bottom heat of from °yo to 80°. The usual
time is, however, in spring, when the old plants are
pruned back. Choose the tops of the shoots, retaining
two or three joints to each cutting. Place in a compost
of sand and peat or leaf-mould in equal proportions,
singly, in pots, and plunge the pots in the propagating
bed.

Allium, including Porrum, Schcenoprasum. Liliace<z.

Increased by seeds sown thinly in light soil in early
spring. By bulbels, planting them in autumn or spring
i to 4 inches deep. See Onion, Leek, Chives, Garlic.

Allosorus. See Ferns.

Almonds ( Prunus Amygdalus, P. Japonica}. Rosacetz.

The almond is worked the same as the peach and

apricot. Seedling almond stocks are best, but the peach

is often used. Apricot stocks are sometimes employed,

but they are not to be recommended.

Double-flowering almond will grow from root-cuttings

if on own roots. Heel-in plants in fall, and buds will

begin to form in three to six weeks ; then make cuttings.

Results are poor when cuttings are taken directly upon

first lifting the plants. See Prunus.

Alnus (Alder). Cupuliferts.

Propagated usually by seeds, which are gathered in
the fall and well dried. Then they are sprinkled lightly
on the ground and covered very thinly. Towards the
end of the year the seedlings are planted in rows il/2 feet
apart, and 6 inches from each other, where they may re-
main for two years, after which they can be placed where
they are intended to stand. Planting is best done in
October or April. They are also increased, but rarely,
by suckers, by cuttings and by grafting.

Alocasia. Aroidece.

Increased by seeds and divisions, as for caladium.

Aloe. Liliacecz.

Commonly propagated by suckers, which spring from
the base of the plant. Seeds are sometimes employed.

ALONSOA — AMARYLLIS. 165

Alonsoa. Scrophulariacecs.

Propagated by seeds, sown in spring ; also by cuttings
in sandy soil, in gentle heat. The herbaceous species
may be treated as outdoor summer annuals, and should
be raised in little heat, and planted out in May.

Aloysia (species of Lippia, Sweet-scented Verbena, Lemon

Verbena). Verbenacece.

Increased easily in spring by young wood. The cut-
tings will root in about three weeks, in sandy soil with gen-
tle heat. Also by cuttings of ripened wood in autumn.

Alsophila. See Ferns.
Alstroemeria. Amaryllidacecz.

Increased by seeds. By a careful division of the fleshy
roots, during fall or spring.

Alternanthera ( Telanthera Bettzichiana}. Amarantacea.

Commonly raised from cuttings of growing wood. For
spring and summer bedding, the plants are started in late
winter. The stock plants, from which cuttings are taken,
are procured from cuttings made late in summer. Seeds
are little used.

Althaea (Marsh-Mallow, Hollyhock). Malvacecs.

Increased by seeds, and by divisions. The biennial
species must be raised from seeds every year. See
Hollyhock.

Alum Root. See Heuchera.

Alyssum( Mad wort). Crucifercz.

Increased by seeds (particularly sweet alyssum and
other annuals) sown in the open border or in pans of
sandy soil. By divisions and layers. By cuttings made
from young shoots two to three inches in length, placed in
sandy loam, early in the season, in a shady place.

Amarantus. Amarantacecs.

Propagated by seeds sown in hotbeds in spring, and
thinned out when about one-half inch high. Late in
spring they may be transplanted outdoors in their perma-
nent situation, or into pots. Sometimes sown in the open.

Amaryllis. Amaryllidacece.

Propagated by seeds and offsets. Seedlings will bloom
in from one to two years.

l66 THE NURSERY LIST.

Am&lanchier (Shad-bush, Juneberry, Service berry).

Rosacece.

Seeds. Layers and cuttings in autumn. By grafting, in
early spring, on the mountain ash, hawthorn or the
quince, or the weaker on the stronger-growing species.
See Juneberry.

Amelias. Composites.

Increased by divisions ; or by cuttings under glass in
spring.

Amherstia. Leguminoscz.

Propagated by seeds ; also by cuttings of the half-
ripened wood inserted in sand under a glass, in bottom
heat of about 80°.

Amianthemum. See Zygadenus.

Amorpha (Lead Plant, Bastard Indigo). Leguminosce.

Increased by seeds, usually. Layers or cuttings, taken
off at the joint, strike readily if placed in a sheltered situa-
tion early in autumn. They should remain undisturbed
till the following autumn.

Amorphophallus. Atoidece. *'

Propagated by offsets, or cormels, and by seeds, which,
however, are usually sparingly produced in cultivation.

Ampelopsis. Vitacecs.

Increased by seeds, especially the one known as A.
Veitchii, or Boston ivy (properly A. tricuspidata}. Layers
or cuttings made in spring from the young soft wood, root
freely in gentle heat. By cuttings having a good eye, if
taken in September and pricked under hand-lights .in
sandy soil on the open border, or in pots. Hard-wood
cuttings or rooted runners are commonly employed in
this country for A. quinquefolia (Virginia Creeper).

Amphicome. Bignoniacece.

Increased by seeds, sown in early spring, in pots of
sandy soil placed in a greenhouse. By young shoots in-
serted in sandy soil in gentle heat in spring.

Amsonia. Apocynacece.

Propagated by seeds ; by divisions of the roote in
spring ; or by cuttings during the summer months.

Amygdalus. See Prunus.

ANACARDIUM ANEMIA. 167

Anacardium (Cashew). Anacardiacece.

Ripened cuttings, with their leaves left on, root freely in
sand under a hand-glass, in heat.

Anagallis ( Pimpernel ). Primulacece.

The annuals, by seeds sown in a warm place in spring ;
the perennials, by cuttings from young shoots, or by divis-
ion, at any time, either under a hand glass or in a closed
frame. Keep in the shade, and when thoroughly estab-
lished harden off gradually.

Ananas. See Pine Apple.

Anantherix. Asclepiadacecs.

Increased by seeds, which ripen in abundance, or by
division of the root.

Anastatica (Resurrection Plant). Cruciferce.

Increased by seeds sown in the spring in heat, and the
plants afterwards potted off and plunged again in heat to
hasten their growth.

Anchusa. Borraginacece.

Propagated by seeds, which should be sown in early
spring in pots of sandy soil ; they will germinate in three
or four weeks. Also by divisions, and rarely by cuttings.

Andersonia. Epacridacece .

Propagated by cuttings from tips of young shoots.
These should be made in autumn, winter or spring, and
planted in sand in a gentle heat, with a bell-glass over
them.

Andromeda. Ericacece.

Propagated by seeds, sown thinly as soon as ripe, in
pots or pans, in sandy peat soil. Living sphagnum is
an excellent material upon which to sow andromeda
seeds. Place in a cool frame or greenhouse, giving
plenty of air. The young plants should be planted out
in spring, if large enough, or pricked into boxes if small.
By layers, which, if carefully pegged down during Sep-
tember, will take twelve months to make sufficient roots
to allow of their being separated ; layerage is a common
method.

Anemia. See Ferns.

l68 THE NURSERY LIST.

Anemone (Wind Flower). Ranunculacett.

Propagated by seeds, root divisions or root cuttings in
autumn or early spring; the seeds are better sown as
soon as ripe in pans, in a coldframe.

Angelica. Umbelliferce.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in Septem-
ber or March, in ordinary soil.

Angelonia. Scrophulariacece.

Propagated by seeds, which should be planted in spring
in hotbeds, and transplanted in the open in May. By
cuttings of the young shoots in spring. These root
readily under a hand-glass or in 'a propagating-bed, if
given plenty of air daily.

Angraecum. See ^Erides.

Anguloa. Orchidacece.

Propagated by dividing the pseudo-bulbs, just before
they commence to grow. (See under Orchids. )

Anisanthus. See Antholyza.

Anise. Umbelliferce.

Increased by seeds sown in ordinary soil, on a warm,
sunny border in spring.

Ancectochilus. Orchidacece.

Propagated by cutting off the growing top just below
the last new root, dividing the remainder of the stem into
lengths of two or three joints. (See under Orchids. )

Anomatheca (referred by some to Lapeyrousia). Iridacece.
Increased sometimes by seeds sown very thinly in seed
pans as soon as ripe. Also, multiply very rapidly by cut-
ting up the masses once a year. Offsets.

Anona (Custard Apple). Anonacece.

Increased by seeds, which, in the north, should be
sown in pots and plunged into a hotbed. By ripened
cuttings, which will root in sand under a hand-glass, in a
moist heat.

Ansellia. Orchidacece.

Increased by divisions of the tubers just after flower-
ing. (See under Orchids.)

ANTENNARIA — APHELANDRA.

Antennaria. Composites.

Propagated by seeds sown in spring in a coldframe,
and by divisions of the roots in spring.

Anthemis (Chamomile). Composites.
Propagated by seeds and divisions.

Anthericum, Phalangium. Liliacees.

Increased by seeds sown as early as possible after they
are ripe, in a coldframe ; by division of the roots.

Antholyza, including Anisanthus. Iridacees.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown as soon as
ripe, in light soil, in a cool house. Here they will germi-
nate the following spring, and will be fit to plant out in
the summer of the same year. Also by offsets.

Anthurium. Aroidees.

Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe in shallow,
well-drained pans or pots filled with a compost of peat,
loam, moss, broken crocks or charcoal, and clean sand.
Cover lightly and place in a close, moist propagating
case, where a temperature of 75° to 85° is maintained ; or
the pots may be covered with bell-glasses. Keep the
soil in a uniformly moist condition. Also increased by
divisions, which should be made in January.

Anthyllis (Kidney Vetch). Leguminoses.

Herbaceous perennials, increased by seeds or cuttings.
The cuttings of most species will root in a pot of sandy
soil, with a bell-glass over them, in a cool house or frame.
Seed of the annuals should be sown in a warm, dry place
in the open ground.

Antirrhinum (Snapdragon). Scrophulariaceee.

Increased by seeds sown in early spring or midsum-
mer ; by cuttings, which should be taken in September,
when they will readily root in a coldframe, or under a
hand-glass.

Aphelandra. Acanthacees.

Propagated by cuttings from half-ripened wood taken
off with a heel. Cut the base of each clean across ; in-
sert an inch apart in pots of sandy soil, and plunge in a
brisk bottom heat.

I7O THE NURSERY LIST.

Apios (Ground-Nut). Leguminos<z.

Propagated by the tubers, or divisions of them ; also
easily by seeds.

Aplectrum (Putty-Root). Orchidacece.

Increased by the bulb-like subterranean tubers ; also
by seeds. A difficult plant to grow.

Apocynum (Dog's Bane). Apocynace<z.

Propagated by seeds, suckers and divisions. The best
time to divide is just as the plants are starting into
growth in spring.

Aponogeton. Naiadacecs.

Increased rapidly by seeds and offsets. The seeds
should be sown as soon as ripe, in pots plunged in water
and covered with glass.

Apple (Pyrus Mains}. Rosacece.

Standard apple stocks are grown from seeds, and dwarf
stocks from mound layers. Apple seeds are either im-
ported from France or are obtained from pomace. The
French seeds give what are technically known as crab
stocks, the word crab being used in the sense of a wild or
inferior apple. The yearling stocks themselves are im-
ported from France in great numbers. It has been sup-
posed that French crab stocks are hardier and more vig-
orous than ours, but this opinion is much less common
than formerly, and the foreign stocks are not so popular
now as the domestic stocks. As a rule, nurserymen who
grow trees do not raise apple stocks. Stock growing is
largely a separate business, and in this country it is an
important industry in Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, and other
plains states.

The chief source of apple seeds at the present time is
the pomace from cider mills. The "cheese" of pomace
is broken up, and if the material is dry enough it may be
run through a large sieve to remove the coarser parts.
The seeds are then removed by washing. Various
devices are in use for washing them out. They all pro-
ceed upon the fact that the pomace will rise in water and
the seeds sink. Some use a tub or common tank, which
is tilted a little to allow the water to flow over the side.
Others employ boxes some 7 or 8 feet long, 4 feet wide
and a foot deep, the lower end of which is only n
inches deep to allow the escape of the water. This

APPLE. lyi

Apple, continued.

box is set upon benches, and a good stream of water
is carried into it at the upper end. A bushel or two of
pomace is emptied in at a time, and it is broken and
stirred with a fork or shovel. When the seeds are liber-
ated, they fall to the bottom and the refuse runs over the
lower end. Another box is provided with several cleats,
at intervals of about a foot, and the ends are left open.
The box is set at an angle, and the seeds are caught
behind the cleats. Seeds must not stand long in the
pomace pile, or they will be seriously injured. Nursery-
men like to secure the pomace as soon as it is taken from
the press.

As soon as the seeds are collected, they should be
spread upon tables or boards, and should be frequently
turned until perfectly dry. They may then be stored in
boxes in slightly damp sand or sawdust, or in powdered
charcoal, and kept in a cool and dry place until spring.
Or if they are to be sown immediately, they need not be
dried, but simply mixed with enough dry sand to absorb
the water so as to make them easy to handle. Seeds
should not be allowed to become hard and dry through
long exposure to the air, or they will germinate unevenly.
Apple seeds procured at the seed stores are often worth-
less because of this neglect. Very dry seeds can some-
times be grown, however, by subjecting them to repeated
soakings, and then sprouting in a gentle hotbed or mild
forcing-house. Change the water on the seeds every day,
and at the end of a week or ten days mix with sand and
place in a thin layer in the hotbed. Stir frequently to pre-
vent molding. When the seeds begin to sprout, sow them
in the open ground. This operation, which is sometimes
called pipping, may be performed in a small way near
the kitchen stove. Seeds are sometimes "pipped" be-
tween moist blankets. (See also page 17.)

When sowing is done in the fall, the seeds may be sown
in the pomace. This entails extra labor in sowing, but it
saves the labor of washing. This practice gives good
results if the pomace is finely broken, and it is now com-
mon among nurserymen.

In loose and well-drained soils, sowing is undoubtedly
best performed in the fall, just as early as the seeds are
ready. But upon land which holds much water, and
which heaves with frost or contains much clay, spring
sowing is preferable. In spring, the seeds should be sown
just as soon as the ground can be worked.

172 THE NURSERY LIST.

Apple, continued.

If the stocks are to be cultivated with a horse, the rows
should be 3 or 3^ feet apart. Some growers sow in nar-
row drills and some in broad ones. The broad drills are
usually 6 to 10 inches wide. The earth is removed to the
depth of 2 or 3 inches, if it is loose and in good condition,
the seed is scattered thinly on the surface and the earth
hoed back over them. If the ground is likely to bake, the
seeds should not be sown so deep ; and it is always well,
in such cases, to apply some very light and clean mulch.
The plants should be well cultivated during the season,
and they should attain a height of 6 to 12 inches or more
the first year. If the plants come thickly, they must be
thinned out.

In the fall of the first year the seedlings should be large
enough to be dug and sold to general nurserymen.
Sometimes the poorest plants are allowed to stand
another year, but they are usually so scattering that they
do not pay for the use of the land, and they should be
transplanted the same as the larger stock, or the weakest
ones may be thrown away. The stocks are dug with a
plow or tree-digger and heeled-in closely, so that the
leaves ' ' sweat ' ' and fall off. The plants are then stored
in sand, moss or sawdust in a cellar. Before they are
planted, the tops are cut off near the crown, usually with a
hatchet on a block. The stocks are then graded into
budding and grafting sizes. The general nurserymen buy
these stocks in fall or early winter. Those which are root-
grafted are worked during late winter, but those intended
for budding, or which must be grown another season
before they attain sufficient size for working, are
heeled-in, sometimes being "dressed" (see Chapter V);
in the spring they are set in nursery rows, about a foot
apart in the row (page 146). The nurseryman reckons the
age of his tree from the top or graft, rather than from the
time the seed was sown.

Seedling raising is usually conducted by men who make
it a business, and who supply the general nurserymen of
the country. It is largely practiced at the west, where the
deep and strong soils produce a rapid growth. The year-
ling trees are graded by the western growers into about
four lots : "Extras," or those at least ^inch in diameter
at the crown, and having 12 inches of both top and root;
these are used mostly as budding stocks the next season.
" Commons," those between fV ar>d j^inch at the crown,
and having 8 inches of root ; these are used for immediate

APPLE. 173

Apple, concluded.

root- grafting. ' ' Second-class, " those from -fa to T3S inch at
the crown, and "third-class," or all those under T26. The
last two classes must be grown in the field for one or two
seasons before they can be worked to advantage.

Dwarf stocks are mostly obtained from mound-layering.
The common stock for dwarfing is the Paradise apple, a
dwarf variety of the common apple species (Pyrus Mains).
This variety rarely attains a height of more than 4 feet.
A larger or freer stock is the Doucin, also a variety of
Pyrus Mains, which will produce an engrafted tree inter-
mediate in size between that given by the Paradise and
free or common stocks. This is little used in this country.
To obtain stools for mound-layering, the tree, when well
established, is cut off within 4 or 6 inches of the ground in
spring, and during the summer several shoots or sprouts
will arise. The next year the stool is covered by a
mound, and by autumn the layers are ready to take off.
Sometimes, when stocks are rare, mound-layering is per-
formed during the first summer, before the young shoots
have hardened, but good stocks are not obtained by this
method. Common green layering is sometimes practiced
the first year, but it is not in favor. The dwarf stocks, in
common with all apple stocks, may be sparingly propa-
gated by root-cuttings and by hard-wood cuttings.

Apple stocks are either grafted or budded. Root-graft-
ing is the most common, especially at the west, where long
cions are used in order to secure own-rooted trees. (See
Figs. 103, 104.) Budding is gaining in favor eastward
and southward ; it is performed during August and early
September in the northern states, or it may be begun on
strong stocks in July by using buds which have been kept
on ice. Stocks should be strong enough to be budded the
same year they are transplanted, but the operation is
sometimes deferred until the second summer. Stocks
which cannot be worked until the second year are un-
profitable, especially on valuable land. For root-grafting,
strong one-year-old roots are best, but two-year-olds are
often used. (See pages 148 to 156.)

In common practice, the root is cut into two or three
pieces of 2 to 3 inches each, but stronger trees are ob-
tained, at least the first year or two, by using the whole
root and grafting upon the crown. The lowest piece is
usually small and weak, and is generally discarded.

The apple is easily top-grafted and top-budded. (See
Chapter V. For grades of trees, see page 142. )

174 THE NURSERY LIST.

Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca, P. dasycarpa, P. Mume}.
Rosacetz.

The apricot thrives upon a variety of stocks. Apricot
stocks are used in apricot-growing regions, especially for
deep and rich, well-drained soils. The pits grow readily if

fiven the same treatment as that detailed for the peach
which see). The stocks are also handled in the same
manner as peach stocks. Apricots upon apricot roots are
not largely grown outside of California, in this country.
Apricot stocks can be grown from root cuttings the same
as cherries and other stone fruits.

The apricot does well upon the peach, especially on
light soils. In the warmer parts of the country peach is
much used.

Plum stocks are commonly used at the north, especially
if the trees are to be planted in moist or heavy soils. The
common plum is generally used, but some of the native
plum stocks are now coming into favor, especially in
trying climates. The Russian apricots, which are a hardy
race of Prunus Armeniaca, are grown in colder climates
than the common varieties, and they therefore demand
hardy stocks. Any of the native plums make good
stocks, but the Marianna is now coming into especial
prominence. The myrobolan plum can be used for all
apricots, but it is not popular, particularly in severe
climates. (See Bulletin 71, Cornell Experiment Station.)

The almond, both hard and soft-shelled, is sometimes
used for the apricot, but the union is likely to be imperfect,
and it is not recommended. Almond-rooted trees are
thought to be best adapted to light soils.

Varieties of apricots are usually budded, in the same
way as the peach, although they may be side-grafted at
the crown in the nursery row.

Aquilegia (Columbine, Honeysuckle erroneously). Ranun-

culacece.

Increased by seeds. They must be sown very thinly,
soon after being ripe, in a sandy soil or in pans in a cold-
frame. Division of the root is the only way to perpetuate
any particular variety with certainty.

Arabia (Wall Cress, Rock Cress)-. Crucifera.

Increased by seeds sown in the border or in pans, in
spring ; by divisions of the root, and by cuttings placed
in a shady border during summer.

ARACHIS — ARGEMONE. 175

Arachis (Pea-Nut, Goober, Ground-Nut). Leguminos<z.

Increased by seeds, which, for greenhouses or cold
climates, should be sown in heat ; and, when the plants
have grown to a sufficient size, they should be potted off
singly. The peanut, as a field crop, is grown from seeds
planted where the crop is to stand.

Aralia, Dimorphanthus. Araliacecz.

Propagated by seeds and by root cuttings ; also b>
stem cuttings, in heat. See Ginseng.

Araucaria. Conifer &.

Increased by seeds sown in pans or boxes, with but
gentle heat. By cuttings from the leading shoots, placed
firmly in a pot of sand ; they first require a cool place,
but afterwards may be subjected to a slight warmth.
When rooted, pot off into fibrous loam, mixed with leaf
soil and sand.

Arbor-vitse. See Thuya.

Arbutus (Strawberry Tree). Ericacetz.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in sand
during early spring, and by grafting, budding or inarch-
ing upon A. Unedo.

Arbutus, Trailing. See Epigaea.

Ardisia. Myrsinacece.

Propagated by seeds and cuttings.

Areca (Cabbage Palm). Palmacece.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in a com-
post of loam, peat and leaf soil, in equal parts, with a
liberal addition of sand, and placed in a moist and gen-
tle heat.

Arenaria (Sand wort). Caryophyllacece.

Increased by seeds, division or cuttings ; the last placed
under a hand-glass will root freely. Seeds should be
sown in spring in a coldframe. The best time to divide
the plant is early spring, or during July and August.

Argemone. Papaveracecs.

Increased by seeds, which may be sown outdoors in
spring, those of the rarer species in a hotbed.

176 THE NURSERY LIST.

Argyreia (Silver- weed). Convolvulacetz.

Propagated by cuttings, which will do well in sand,
with a hand-glass over them, in a little bottom heat.

Arisaema. Consult Arum.
Arisarum. Aroidecz.

Propagated in spring by seeds or divisions of the root.
Aristea. Iridacecs.

Increased by seeds and divisions.
Aristolochia (Brithwort). Aristolochiacecs.

Propagated by seeds and layers, which are not very
satisfactory. Cuttings of tender sorts root freely in sand,
with bottom heat. The seeds must be fresh.

Armeria (Thrift, Sea Pink). Plumbaginacecz.

Increased by seeds sown in spring, in pots of sandy
soil, and placed in a coldframe ; by division, separate
pieces being planted as cuttings under hand-glasses.

Arnebia. Borraginacece.

Seeds. Cuttings of the strong shoots should be in-
serted in pots of sandy soil, and placed in gentle heat.

Arnica. Composite.

Propagated by seeds sown in a coldframe in spring,
and by divisions, which should be made in spring.

Arrow-root. See Calathea.

Artabotrys. Anonacecz.

Propagated by seeds ; and in the north by cuttings of
ripened wood, placed in early spring in sand under a
frame, with bottom heat. Similar treatment to Anona.

Artemisia (Mugwort, Southernwood, Wormwood). Com-
posites,

The annuals by seeds ; the herbaceous ones by divid-
ing at the root ; the shrubby kinds by cuttings.

Arthrostemma. Melastomacece.

Propagated by cuttings of small, firm side shoots,
which will root, in April or August, under a hand-glass
in sandy soil.

Artichoke ( Cynara Sc olymus ) . Composites.

Grown from seeds. Although the plant is perennial.

ARTICHOKE — ASCYRUM. 177

a new stock should be started about every other year.
It is increased also by suckers or divisions of the stools.

Artichoke, Jerusalem (Helianthus tuberosus}. Composite.

Commonly increased by means of the tubers, which
may be planted whole or cut into eyes, after the manner
of potatoes. Seeds are very rarely used.

Artocarpus (Bread Fruit). Urticacea.

Propagation is difficult, as the plant is grown in north-
ern countries. Suckers may be utilized when procurable.
The young and slender lateral growths are used for cut-
tings.

Arum. Aroidecz.

Propagated by seeds, but usually by division of the
roots, the best time being just as they begin their new
growth, securing as many roots as possible to each divi-
sion. Any rootless pieces should be placed in heat
shortly after removal ; this hastens the formation of roots
and excites top growth. Arisaemas are treated in the
same way.

Arundinaria. Graminece.

Increased by division of the root.

Arundo (Reed). Graminece.

Propagated by seeds or divisions, spring being the
best time for either method. In early autumn, the canes
can be cut into lengths of 18 to 24 inches for cuttings,
and partly buried in sand in a gentle bottom heat, lay-
ing them horizontally.

Asa rum. Aristolochiacece.

Propagated easily by divisions in spring.

Asclepias (Milkweed, Silkweed). Asclepiadacece.

Increased by seeds sown in pots in spring, pricked out
singly when large enough, and treated like cuttings. By
cuttings, which should be secured in spring, struck in
gentle heat, under a bell-glass, and as soon as they are
well-rooted potted into small pots. Seeds of A. tuberosa
must be sown or stratified as soon as gathered.

Ascyrum. Hypericacece •.

Increased by seeds and by careful divisions of the
roots in spring.

178 THE NURSERY LIST.

Ash. See Fraxinus.
Asimina. Anonacece.

Propagated by seeds. The seedlings may be raised in
pots, and sheltered carefully. By layers made in autumn.

Asparagus. Liliacecs.

The common kitchen-garden asparagus is best propa-
gated by means of seeds. These are sown in spring as
soon as the ground can be worked, usually in rows a foot
or two apart. Thin the young plants to 2 or 3 inches
apart in the row and give good culture, and the plants
can be set in the field the following spring, and they will
give a fair crop after growing there two seasons. Small
growers nearly always buy plants of nurserymen. Old
asparagus crowns can be divided, but seeds give better
plants.

The ornamental species of asparagus are propagated
by seeds when they are obtainable ; otherwise, by divi-
sion. See Myrsiphyllum.

Asperula. Rubiacecs.

Increased by seeds and by divisions of the roots dur-
ing spring and early summer.

Asphodeline. Liliacecs.

Propagated by division.
Asphodelus (Asphodel). Liliacece.

Propagated by seeds and by division of the root in
early spring.

Aspidistra. Liliacecs.

By division of the crowns, or by suckers.
Aspidium. See under Ferns.
Asplenium. See under Ferns.

Aster (Aster, Starwort, Michaelmas Daisy). Composites.
Propagated by seeds sown in spring, or by root divi-
sions made in autumn ; also by cuttings, which root freely
in sandy soil under a hand-glass, with little heat. For
China Aster, see Callistephus.

Astilbe. Saxifragacecs.

Propagated by division in early spring, and by seeds
if they are produced.

ASTRAGALUS — AUCUBA. 179

Astragalus (Milk Vetch). Leguminosce.

Seeds should be sown in pots of sandy soil placed in a
coldframe, as soon as ripe, or early in the spring, as they
may lie a long time before germinating. The herbaceous
perennials also increase by divisions, and the shrubby
kinds slowly by means of cuttings placed in a coldframe.

Astrocaryum, Phoenicophorum. Palmacecz.

Increased by seeds sown in spring in a hotbed ; or by
suckers, if obtainable.

Astroloma. Epacridacecs.

Propagated by young cuttings placed in sandy soil,
under a bell-glass, in a cool house.

Atalantia. Rutacece.

Propagated by ripened cuttings, which will root freely
in sandy soil under a hand-glass, in heat.

Atamasco Lily. See Amaryllis.

Atragene (species of Clematis). Ranunculacecz.

Seeds should be stratified, and sown in early spring, in
gentle heat. By layering in autumn ; the layers should
not be separated for about a year, when they will be vig-
orous plants. By cuttings, which should be set in light
soil and placed under a hand-glass.

Atriplcx. See Orach.
Atropa (Belladonna). Solanacece.
Seeds.

7ubrietia. Crucifercz.
Propagated by seeds, which should be sown in spring.
In early autumn carefully transplant to a cool, shady bor-
der. Also by divisions. Where a stock of old plants
exists, layer their long, slender branches any time after
flowering, and cover with a mixture of sand and leaf soil ;
they will then root freely and establish themselves in
time for spring blooming. Cuttings should be "drawn"
or grown in a frame until they are soft, before they are
removed.

cuba. Cornacecz.

Readily increased by seeds, sown as soon as ripe ; or
by cuttings, inserted in spring or autumn in sandy soil,

l8o THE NURSERY LIST.

with or without a covering. The plant is tender at the
north.

Auricula (Primula Auricula}. Primulacea.

Propagated by seeds, sown as soon as ripe or in spring,
in well-drained pots filled with sandy soil, well watered
previous to sowing. Cover lightly with coarse sand,
place a pane of glass over the pot, and place the latter in
a hand-glass. By offsets, which should be removed when
top-dressed, as they are more likely to root. Arrange
about four offsets around the sides of well -drained 3-inch
pots, filled with sandy soil, place under a bell-glass or in
a close hand-light, and water very sparingly so as to pre-
vent them damping off.

Australian Feather-palm. See Ptychosperma.
Averrhoa. Geraniacece.

Increased in spring by half-ripened cuttings, which will
root in sand, under a hand-glass, with bottom heat.

Azalea. Ericacece.

Increased by seeds, sown as soon as ripe, or early the
following spring, in a large, shallow frame containing
from 2 to 3 inches of peat, over which more peat must be
spread by means of a fine sieve ; do not cover, but water
thoroughly. Live sphagnum also makes an excellent
soil. When the seedlings begin to appear they should
have air, shade, and a daily sprinkling of water; trans-
plant in autumn in boxes of peat and coarse sand, water,
shade, and keep close until growth commences. Graft-
ing is largely practiced to increase the stock of named
varieties or choice seedlings, the stock most employed
being A. Pontica for hardy sorts, and some strong-grow-
ing variety of A. Indica, like Phoenicia, for tender ones.
Layering in spring, enclosing the part buried with moss,
is also practiced ; but the layer must be left two years
before separating. Cuttings of A. Indica made of the
hardened wood 2 or 3 inches long, taken with or with-
out a heel, root readily in sand; about the end of sum-
mer is the best time. When placed outside they should
be covered with a hand-light for about two months, and
at the end of that time air should be given freely. See
Rhododendron.

Babiana. Iridacece.

Propagated quickly by seeds sown in pans, placed in a
gentle heat. These will grow at almost any time. The

BACKHOUSIA — BAMBUS'A. l8l

young plants will require to be carefully transplanted
each season until they develop into blooming corms. By
offsets grown in boxes or planted out in light, rich soil
until large enough for flowering.

Backhousia. Myrtacece.

Increased by half-ripened cuttings, in sand, under a
bell-glass, in a cool house, during spring.

Bactris. Palmacece.

Increased by suckers, which are very easily produced.

Bcea, Dorcoceras. Gesneracece.
Propagated easily by seeds.

Bseckea. Myrtacete.

Increased by cuttings of young wood, which will root
freely if placed in a pot of sand, with a bell-glass over
them, in a cool house.

Bald-Cypress. See Taxodium.

Balm (Melissa officinalis^. Labiates.

Seeds sown outdoors in spring. Division.

Balsam (Impatiens Balsamina, I. Sultani, etc.). Gera-

niacece.

Increased by seeds sown in early spring, in pans of rich,
sandy soil, and placed in a gentle bottom heat of about
65°. Or the seeds may be sown directly in the garden
when the weather becomes warm. Varieties increased by-
layers in late summer, under glass, or by veneer-grafting ;
also by cuttings. / Sultani is better raised from seeds
than from cuttings. The stove species are multiplied by
seeds, or cuttings in close frames.

Balsamodendron. Burseracece.

Increased by cuttings taken from the ripe young wood,
in spring, and placed under a hand-glass, in bottom heat.

Balsam-tree. See Clusia.

Bambusa (Bamboo). Graminece.

Propagated by careful division of well-developed plants,
in early spring, just as new growth is commencing ; estab-
lish the divisions in pots. If young shoots are layered,
leave only the end exposed.
M

l82 \THE NURSERY LIST.

Banana and Plantain (Musa sapientum, M. paradisiaca and

others). Scitaminece.

Edible bananas rarely produce seeds. The young
plants are obtained from suckers, which spring from the
main rootstock. These suckers are transplanted when
2 or 3 feet high. These plants themselves do not produce
so good crops as the suckers which arise from them, and
are not transplanted. Two or three suckers are sufficient
for a plant at a time ; what others arise should be trans-
planted or destroyed. The suckers should be set deep,
as low as two feet for best results. In fifteen or eighteen
months the plants will bloom, if they have had good care.
The stem bears fruit but once, but new stems arise to take
its place. See Musa.

Baneberry. See Actsea.

Banksia. Proteacecz.

Seeds are very unsatisfactory. Propagated by well-
ripened cuttings taken off at a joint, and placed in pots of
sand without shortening any of the leaves, except on the
part that is planted in the sand, where they should be
taken off quite close. The less depth the better, so long
as they stand firm. Place them under hand-glasses in a
propagating house, but do not plunge them in heat.

Baptisia. Leguminosce.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in sand and
leaf mold in the open, or in pots placed in a coldframe.
By divisions.

Barbadoes Gooseberry. See Pereskia.

Barbarea (Winter Cress, American Cress, Upland Cress).

Cruciferce.

Increased by seeds (chiefly), divisions, suckers and cut-
tings.

Barberry (Berberis vulgaris, etc.). Berberidacece.

Propagated by stratified seeds, or by suckers, layers and
cuttings of mature wood. Layers are usually allowed to
remain two years. Rare sorts are sometimes grafted on
common stocks.

Barkeria (species of Epidendrum). Orchidacecs .

Propagated by divisions made just before new growth
commences. See under Orchids.

BARLERIA BEEFWOOD. 183

•/'-

Barleria. Acanthacecs.

Propagated by cuttings made of the young wood, and
placed in a compost of loam and peat with a little rotten
dung, under a bell glass, in stove temperature with bottom
heat.

Barrenwort. See Epimedium.
Bartonia aurea. See Mentzelia.

Basil ( Ocymum Basilicum and O. minimum). Labiates.
Seeds, sown in a hotbed or outdoors.

Basswood. See Tilia.

Batatas. See Ipomaea and Sweet Potato.

Batemannla. Orchidacece.

Increased by divisions and offsets.
Bauhinia (Mountain Ebony). Leguminosce.

Propagated by cuttings, which should be taken when
the wood is neither very ripe nor very young. The leaves
must be dressed off, and the cuttings planted in sand
under a glass in moist heat. Also by seeds.

Bayberry. See Myrica.

Bean. Leguminoscz.

Seeds ; sow only after the weather is thoroughly settled
for outdoor culture. Lima beans should not be sown till
a week or ten days after it is safe to sow the common
kinds.

Bean Caper. See Zygophyllum.

Bean, Sacred or Water. See Nelumbo and Nymphsea.

Bear's Grass. See Yucca.

Beaucarnea. Liliacecz.

Increased chiefly by seeds, which have been imported
from their native country. By cuttings, when obtainable.

Beaufortia. Myrtacece.

Propagated by cuttings of half-ripened shoots ; place in
a sandy soil under a glass, with very little heat.

Beech. See Fagus.

Beef wood. See Casuarina.

184 THE NURSERY LIST.

Beet (Beta vulgaris}. Chenopodiacecz.

Seeds, sown very early, before frosts cease for the early
crop.

Befaria. Ericacece.

Propagated by cuttings of young wood, placed in sandy
soil, in gentle heat.

Begonia. Begoniacece.

Increased by seeds, well ripened before they are gath-
ered, and kept very dry until sown. For the successful
raising of begonias, it is necessary to sow the seeds in
pans or pots of well-drained, light, sandy soil, which
should be well watered before the seeds are sown. The
seeds should not be covered with soil, or they may fail to
germinate. Place a pane of glass over the pans (Fig. 2),
and set in a warm house or frame, where a temperature
of about 65° can be maintained, and shade from the sun.
As soon as the plants are large enough they should be
pricked off into pans of light leaf-mold soil, in which
they may remain until large enough to be placed singly
in pots.

By divisions of the rhizomes. Also increased by cut-
tings, which strike freely in pots of sand and leaf-mold,
and placed on a bottom heat of about 70°. Where large
quantities are required, a bed of cocoanut fiber in a stove
or propagating-frame may be used, and in this the cut-
tings may be planted, and remain until well rooted. Leaf
cuttings of the Rex or foliage types are in common use.
They succeed best when laid on sand or cocoanut fiber,
and shaded from bright sunlight. Select old, well-ma-
tured leaves, and make an incision with a sharp knife
across the principal nerves, on the under side. They
should then be placed on the sand or fiber, and held
down by means of a few pieces of crock. Under this
treatment plantlets will form on the lower ends of the
nerves of each section of the leaf, and these, when large
enough, may be removed from the bed and potted.
Fan-shaped pieces of leaves are often used. Leaf cut-
tings of begonia are described and figured in Chapter IV.
(Figs. 78, 79, 80.) Species like B. diversifolia, etc., may
be propagated by the tubers which form in the axils of
the leaves. B. phyllomaniaca produces plantlets on the
leaves and stems, and these may be removed and han-
dled like small seedlings.

Tuberous Begonias (By E. G. Lodeman). — Tuberous

BEGONIA BENTHAMIA. 185

Begonia, continued.

species may be propagated by seeds, cuttings, and by
divisions of the tubers. The seeds should be sown early
in spring, and the seedlings pricked off and shifted as
described for the evergreen or shrubby sections. Cut-
tings of the young, rapidly-growing shoots, if taken as
soon as the plants are 4 to 6 inches high, will form good
tubers by fall. Cuttings made while the plants are in
flower rarely produce tubers of much value ; B. Bolivien-
sis, B. Sedeni.and B. Veitchii are particularly apt to fail
in this respect. The cuttings should be from 2 to 4
inches in length, the lower cut being just beneath a
joint ; remove one or two of the lowest leaves and insert
singly near the edge of thumb-pots filled with a soil com-
posed of about equal parts sand, leaf-mold and loam.
Place in a cool, shaded position, applying water only to
prevent flagging. Dividing the tubers is an unsatisfac-
tory method of propagation, except in the case of B.
Socotrana. The tubers should be cut before active
growth begins, so that each part shall have an eye or
crown. They are then treated as separate tubers. Be-
gonias which have not been improved are most easily
and rapidly propagated from seed ; the named or im-
proved varieties are best increased by cuttings.

Belamcanda, including Pardanthus (Blackberry Lily). Iri-

dacecs.

Seeds, division, and cuttings of young growth. The
Blackberry Lily (B. Chinensis] propagates freely by divi-
sion and by seeds.

Bellflower. See Campanula.

Bellis (Daisy). Composite.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in early
spring. By division after flowering, each crown making
a separate plant. The soil must be pressed firmly about
them.

Bellwort. See Uvularia.
Bengal Quince. See ^Egle.
Bent Grass. See Agrostis.
Benthamia. Cornacetz.

Propagated by seeds sown when ripe in a cool house, or

by layering in autumn. By cuttings, and by grafting on

the dogwood.

l86 THE NURSERY LIST.

Benzoin. See Lindera.
Berberidopsis. Berberidace<z.

Propagated by seeds in spring, by layering in autumn,
or by young cuttings in spring.

Berberis. See Barberry.
Berchemia. Rhamnacecs.

Propagated by layering the young shoots. By ripened
cuttings, and slips of the roots planted under glass.

Bertolonia. Melastomacece.

Propagated by seeds and cuttings.
Bessera. Liliacecz.

Propagated by offsets.
Betonica. See Stachys.

Betula (Birch). Cupulifercz,

Increased by seeds, which must be sown as soon as
gathered, or else stratified. By grafting or budding upon
seedling ^stocks of the common kinds ; the former should
be done in spring or late winter, and the latter in summer
when the buds are ready. Cion-budding (Fig. 115) is a
good method.

Bignonia (Trumpet Flower). Bignoniacecc.

Increased by seeds or layering, or, in early spring, by
cuttings made from good strong shoots, with two or three
joints. Place cuttings of tender sorts in a well-drained
pot of sandy soil, under a bell-glass, in bottom heat.
Also by seeds. B. radicans propagates readily from root
cuttings.

Billardiera (Apple Berry). Pittosporacecc.

Increased by seeds, and by cuttings placed in a pot of
sandy soil, under a bell-glass, in gentle heat.

Billbergia. Bromeliac&cz .

Propagated by suckers, which are taken from the base
of the plant after flowering, when they have attained a
good size. The best method to adopt is as follows : Hold
the sucker in the hand and gently twist it off the stem ;
next, trim the base by the removal of a few of the lower
leaves, and then insert each sucker separately in a small
pot, in sharp soil. A bottom heat of about 80° will

BILLBERRY BLADDER-NUT. 187

greatly facilitate new root growth ; failing this, they will
root freely in the temperature of a stove, if placed in a
shaded position for two or three weeks, after which they
will bear increased light and sunshine during the latter
part of the day.

Billberry. See Vaccinium.

Biota. See Thuya.

Birch. See Betula.

Birthwort. See Aristolochia.

Bitter Sweet. See Celastrus and Solanum.

Blackberry (Rubus villosus and vars. ). Rosacetz.

New varieties are obtained from seeds, which may be
sown as soon as they are cleaned from the ripe fruit, or
which may be stratified until the next spring. If the soil
is in prime condition, fall sowing is preferable.

Varieties are multiplied by suckers and by root cuttings.
The suckers spring up freely about the old plants, espe-
cially if the roots are broken by the cultivator ; but they
have few fibrous roots, and are inferior. The best plants
are obtained from root cuttings (Fig. 62). Roots from
one-fourth to three-eighths inch in diameter are selected
for this purpose. The roots are dug in the fall, cut into
pieces an inch or two long, and stored until early spring.
They may be buried in boxes of sand after the manner of
stratified seeds, or stored in a cool cellar ; callusing pro-
ceeds mos rapidly in a cellar. The pieces are planted
horizontally an inch or two deep, in loose, rich soil. It is
best to put them in a frame and give them slight bottom
heat, although they will grow if planted in the open in
April or May, but the plants will make much less growth
the first season. Some varieties do not strike quickly
without bottom heat. When the variety is scarce, shorter
and slenderer pieces of root may be used, but these de-
mand bottom heat. The heat in the frames is usually sup-
plied by manure, or the heat of the sun under the glass
may be sufficient. In these frames the cuttings may be
started in the north late in March, or some six or eight
weeks before the plants can be set out-doors without pro-
tection. When the weather has become somewhat set-
tled, the plants may be planted out, and by fall they will
be 2 to 3 feet high. See Dewberry.

Bladder-nut. See Staphylea.

l88 THE NURSERY LIST.

Bladder Senna. See Colutea.
Blandfordia. Liliacece.

Propagated by seeds and offsets, or by division of the
old plants, which must be done when repotting.

Blazing Star. See Liatris.
Bleeding Heart. See Dicentra.

Bletia. Orchidacea :

Propagated by divisions, which should be made after
the plants have finished flowering, or previous to their
starting into growth. These are terrestrial, and their
flat, roundish pseudo-bulbs are usually under ground.
They bear division well, especially B. hyacinthina, which
may be cut up into pieces consisting of a single pseudo-
bulb. (See under Orchids.)

Blood Flower. See Haemanthus.

Blood-root. See Sanguinaria and Haemodorum.

Blueberry. See Vaccinium.

Blue-eyed Grass. See Sisyrinchium.

Blumenbachia. Loasacecz.

Propagated by seeds sown in pots in spring, and placed
in a gentle heat.

Bocconia. Papaveracecz .

Some species grow well from seed. By young suckers,
taken from established plants during summer. Cuttings
taken from the axils of the large leaves during early sum-
mer push freely, so that they will have plenty of roots
before winter sets in. Root cuttings of B. cor data strike
freely.

Boltonia. Composite.

Increased by divisions of the root in spring. Seeds.

Bomarea. Amaryllidacece.

Propagated by seeds, which may be sown in a warm
house. Also increased by careful division of the under-
ground stem. In making a division, it is necessary to
observe that the part taken has some roots by which to
live till new ones are formed.

BOMBAX BOUSSINGAULTIA. 189

Bombax (Silk Cotton Tree). Malvacetz.

Plants raised from seeds brought from their native hab-
itats make the best trees. Increased by cuttings, which
will root readily if not too ripe. They should be taken
off at a joint, and placed in sand under a bell-glass, in
moist heat.

Borago. Borraginacece.

Propagated by seeds sown from spring to autumn in
any good garden soil. Also by divisions in spring, or
by striking cuttings in a coldframe.

Borassus. Palmacecz.

Increased by seeds sown in a strong bottom heat.
Boronia. Rutacece.

Increased by seed. By young cuttings, or those made
from half-ripened wood. Place these in a thoroughly
drained pot of sandy soil, with one inch of sand on the
surface, and cover with a bell-glass.

Borreria. Rubiacece.

Propagated by cuttings. Those of the perennial kinds
strike root readily in a light soil, in heat. The annual
kinds require a similar treatment to other tender annuals.

Boston Ivy, and Boston Vine. See Ampelopsis and Myrsi-
phyllum.

Boswellia (Olibanum Tree). Burseracetz .

Increased easily by cuttings in sand under a glass.
Botrychium. See Ferns.

Bouchea. Verbenacecz.

Increased during spring by cuttings, placed in sand
under a glass and in a gentle heat.

Bougainvillea. Nyctaginacece.

Propagated by cuttings from the half-ripened wood.
Place in sandy soil, in a brisk heat. Also grown from
root cuttings.

Bouncing Bet. See Saponaria.

Boussingaultia ( Madeira Vine ). Chenopodiacea.

Increased by seeds, and easily by means of the tuber-
ties of the stem. Also by the tubers.

IQO THE NURSERY LIST.

Bouvardia. Rubiaceez.

Generally propagated by root cuttings, which strike
readily. Cuttings of shoots will also grow, if struck in
heat.

Bowiea. Liliacetz.

Propagated by seeds or offsets.
Box Elder. See Negundo.
Box Thorn. See Lycium.
Box Tree. See Buxus.

Brachycome (Swan River Daisy). Composites.

Propagated by seeds sown in early spring, in a gentle
hotbed, or they may be sown thinly outdoors, late in
spring.

Brahea. Palmacece.

Propagated by seeds in heat.

Brassia. Orchidacecs.

Increased by dividing the plant when growth has com-
menced. (See under Orchids. )

Bravoa. Amaryllidacece.

Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe, and by off-
sets in autumn.

Bread Fruit. See Artocarpus.
Bread Nut. See Brosimum.

Bredia. Melastomacece.

Increased by seeds, and by cuttings from the ripened
shoots placed in sandy loam, under a hand-glass, in heat.

Briza (Quaking Grass). Graminece.

Propagated by seeds, which may be sown in spring or in
autumn.

Broccoli. See Cabbage.

Brodiaea. Liliacece.

Increased by offsets, which should be left undisturbed
with the parent bulbs till they reach a flowering state,
when they may be divided and planted in autumn.

BROMELIA BRUNFELSIA. IQI

Bromelia. Bromeliacecz.

Some are propagated by seeds. All by cuttings in-
serted in sand, in heat.

Bromus. Graminece.

Increased by seeds sown outside in late summer or in
spring, thinning out when necessary.

Brongniartia. Leguminosce.

Increased by cuttings of the young shoots, which, if
firm at the base, will root in sand under a bell-glass, in a
cool house.

Brosimum (Bread Nut). Urticacece.

Propagated by cuttings of ripe wood with their leaves
on. Place in sand in moist heat.

Broughtonia. Orchidacece.

Increased by dividing the plant. (See under Orchids. )

Broussonetia (Paper Mulberry). Urticacece.

Propagated by seeds, sown when ripe or kept till the
following spring ; and by suckers and cuttings of ripened
wood, in a cool house.

Browallia. Scrophulariacecz .

Seeds. To have blooming plants for the holidays, they
are propagated by seeds sown in late summer in pans or
pots of light, rich, sandy soil, and kept in a close frame or
hand-light, where they can be shaded till germination
takes place.

Brownea. Leguminosa.

Increased by cuttings from the ripened wood ; place in
sand under a hand-glass, in moist heat.

Brucea. Simarubacecz.

Increased by cuttings from ripened wood, which will
root freely in a pot of sand under a hand-glass, in mod-
erate heat.

Brugmansia. See Datura.

Brunfelsia, Franciscea. Scrophulariace<z.

Propagated by cuttings placed in sand under a bell-glass
in moderate heat. When rooted, place in pots with a
compost of loam, leaf-soil, peat and sand,

IQ2 THE NURSERY LIST.

Brunsvigia. Amaryllidacecs.

Increased by offsets of considerable size. They should
be potted carefully in a mixture of sandy loam and peat,
with good drainage, and kept tolerably warm and close
until established ; water sparingly until root action has
commenced. The best place for growing the offsets into
a flowering size is on a shelf near the glass, in a tempera-
ture of from 50° to 55°.

Brussels Sprouts. See Cabbage.

Bryonia. Cucurbitacece.

Propagated by seeds, or by divisions of the tuber. Cut-
tings of the shoots will also strike (but with difficulty) in
water.

Bryophyllum. Crassulactz.

Propagated by cuttings ; or by simply laying the leaf on
moist sand or moss, and at the indentations upon the mar-
gin plantlets will appear. (See Fig. 77. )

Buceras. See Terminalia.

Buckbean. See Menyanthes.

Buckeye. See ^sculus.

Bucklandia. Hamamelidece.

Increased by cuttings of ripened shoots placed in sandy
loam under a hand-glass, in moderate heat. Water care-
fully, for they are liable to rot off.

Buckthorn. See Rhamnus.

Buckwheat {Fagopyrum esculentum and F. Tataricum ) .

Polygonacece.
Propagated by seeds.
Buffalo Berry. See Shepherdia.
Bugwort. See Cimicifuga.
Bulbine. Liliacecs.

The bulbous rooted species by offsets, and the herba-
ceous sorts by suckers and divisions. Also by cuttings.

Bulbocodium. Liliacece.

Increased by offsets in a rich, sandy loam. Take up the
bulbs, divide and replant them every second year, hand-
ling in autumn and renewing the soil or planting in new
positions*

BULBOPHYLLUM BUXUS. IQ3

Bulbophyllum, Anisopetalum. Orchidacecs.

Propagated by division of the pseudo-bulbs.
Bullrush. See Typha and Juncus.
Bupleurum (Hare's Ear). Umbellifercs '.

The annuals by seeds sown in spring outdoors ; the
herbaceous perennials may be increased by divisions
made in autumn or spring, and the greenhouse species by
cuttings made in spring.

Burchardia. Liliacece.

Propagated by offsets or divisions made just previous to
potting in spring. It is best to repot annually. Good
drainage should be allowed, and the plant must not be
potted too firmly.

Burchellia. Rubiacece.

Increased by cuttings, not too ripe, planted in sand and
placed under a hand-glass, in a gentle heat.

Burlingtonia. Orchidacece.

Increased by dividing the plant. (See under Orchids.)
Burnet, or Poterium (Sanguisorba}. Rosacece.

Propagated by seeds and division.
Burning Bush. See Euonymus.

Bursera. Burseracece.

Propagated by cuttings placed under a bell-glass, with
bottom heat.

Butcher's Broom. See Ruscus.

Butomus (Flowering Rush). Alismacecz.

Increased by seeds, or by divisions of the roots in spring.
Buttercup. See Ranunculus.
Butternut. See Juglans.
Butterwort. See Pinguicula.
Buttonwood. See Platanus.

Buxus (Box). Euphorbiacece.

Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe, in any light,
well-drained soil. They can be increased by suckers and
divisions ; by layers of young or old wood, made in au-
tumn or early spring ; by cuttings made of the young

IQ4 THE NURSERY LIST.

shoots, from 4 to 6 inches in length, in a sandy place in
spring or fall. The latter method is the better way in this
country, and in the north the cuttings should be handled
under glass.

Byrsonima. Malpighiacecz,

Increased by cuttings of half-ripened shoots in sand
under a hand-glass, in moist bottom heat.

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea, and vars. ). Crucifercs.

Seeds. They may be sown in the open ground in
spring, or in the fall and the young plants wintered in a
coldframe, or in a hotbed or forcing house in late winter
or spring. Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower are
treated in the same manner.

Cabbage Palm. See Areca.
Cabomba. Nymphceacece.

Propagated by root divisions ; also seeds. See Nym-
phaea.

Cacalia. See Senecio.
Cacao. See Theobroma.

Cactus. Cactacece.

Propagation by seeds is not often adopted, as it is a
very slow method. The seeds should be sown in very
sandy soil, and placed in a semi-shady position until ger-
mination commences, when they may be exposed and
very carefully watered. Usually propagated by cuttings
or offsets, which should be made with a sharp cut, and
laid upon a sunny shelf or on dry sand until the wound is
healed and roots emitted, when they should be potted
in sandy soil. Place in a bench and keep syringed.
Some of the less fleshy types may not require this prelimi-
nary "curing" or drying. A cereus cutting is shown in
Fig. 72. (For an elaborate account of the propagation of
cacti by cuttings, see Arloing, Ann. des Sci. Nat. 6th Ser.
iv. pp. 5 to 61, with plates, 1876.) Grafting is resorted
to with weak kinds, which will not grow freely except
upon the stock of a stronger species ; and by this means,
also, such kinds can be kept from the damp soil, which
frequently causes decay. The stocks usually employed
are those of Cereus tortuosus, C. Peruvianus, Pereskia
aculeata, etc., according to the species intended for work-
ing ; they readily unite with each other. If the cion and

C^SALPINIA CALANTHE.

stock are both slender, cleft-grafting should be adopted ;
if both are broad it is best to make horizontal sections,
placing them together and securing in proper position by
tying with raffia, but not too tightly, or the surface may
be injured. See Fig. 134.

Caesalpinia. Leguminoscz.

Increased by cuttings, which are somewhat difficult to
root but may succeed if taken from the plant in a grow-
ing state and planted in sand with a hand-glass over
them in heat.

Ca janus, Leguminoscz.

Plants are usually raised from seeds obtained from the
West Indian Islands and India. Also grown from young
cuttings, put in sand with a hand-glass over them, in heat.

Caladium. Aroidecz.

Increased by tubers, which have been kept dry or rested
for some time. Place in small pots in a stove or pit,
where the night temperature is maintained at from 60°
to 65°, and syringed daily once or twice at least. Large
tubers, if sound, may be divided and the pieces potted.
Some also by cuttings. Taro is the tuberous roots of C.
esculentum.

Calamagrostis. Graminecz.

Increased by seeds sown in autumn or spring. C. are-
naria (now Ammophila arundinacea] , used for holding
sands along seashores, is propagated by division, and can
probably be handled easily by root cuttings.

Calamintha. Labiate.

Increased by seeds, root divisions, or cuttings in spring.

Calamus. Palmacecz.
Increased by seeds.

Calandrinia. Portulacacece .

Increased by seeds sown in pots where they are in-
tended to flower, as transplantation, unless performed
with more than ordinary care, will check their growth or
result in loss.

Calanthe. Orchidacetz.

As a rule, the natural annual increase in the number of
pseudo-bulbs meets the requirements of most cultivators.

lg6 THE NURSERY LIST.

Where a quick propagation is desired, it may be per-
formed by dividing the pseudo-bulbs transversely ; after
allowing the raw surface to callus, the upper part should
be set on moist sand, and several buds will form around
the base. The bottom portion may be used in the ordi-
nary way. Another plan is to divide the pseudo-bulbs
lengthwise into two or more pieces. (See under Orchids.)

Calathea, or Maranta. Scitaminece.

Increased by division in summer or any time between
that and the spring months. When making divisions,
see that each crown is well furnished with roots.

Calceolaria (Slipper wort). Scrophulariacece.

Herbaceous kinds increased by seeds sown from June
to August on pans of light, sandy soil, which should be
soaked with water before sowing. Care must be taken to
make the surface of the soil level, and also to sow the
seeds as evenly as possible. It is better not to cover with
soil, but a sheet of glass should be laid over the pan,
which must be placed in a shady part of the greenhouse
or coldframe until the young plants show the first leaf.
The glass can then be gradually removed. The shrubby
kinds, by seeds and by cuttings in August. Place in a
coldframe or bench facing the north, in sandy soil, and,
when rooted, pot off into 3-inch pots.

Calendula (Pot-Marigold). Composite.

Increased by seeds ; also by cuttings, which thrive well
in a compost of loam and peat.

Caliphruria. Amaryllidacece.

Propagated by bulbels. After flowering, the plants
should have a slight heat, and when starting into new
growth should be repotted.

Calla. See Richardia.

Calliandra. Leguminoscz.

Increased by cuttings of rather firm young wood, in
sand under a hand-glass, in heat.

Callicarpa (French Mulberry). Verbenacece.

Propagated by seeds, divisions, or by cuttings of the
young shoots, the last with the same treatment as fuchsia.

CALLIOPSIS CALODENDRON. 197

Calliopsis. See Coreopsis.
Calliprowu Liliacecz.

Propagated by offsets, which should not be removed
from the parent bulbs until they are of good size.

Callipsyche. Amaryllidacea.

Propagated by seeds and bulbels.
Callirrhoe (Poppy-Mallow). Malvacea.

Perennials by seeds, divisions of roots, and cuttings ;
the annuals by seeds only. Cuttings should be started in
sandy soil in a frame.

Callistachys. See Oxylobium.
Callistemon. Myrtacecs.

Increased by seeds, and by ripened cuttings in sand
under a glass.

Callistephus, Callistemma (China Aster). Composites.

Propagated by seeds, which should be sown under
cover in spring, or seeds for late plants may be sown in
the open.

Callitris, Frenela. Conifera.

Increased by seeds, or by cuttings inserted under a
hand-light in autumn, and wintered in a cold pit.

Calluna (Heather). Ericacecz.

Propagated by cuttings of the tender shoots inserted in
pure sand under glass in a cool house in autumn.

Calochortus (Mariposa Lily). Liliacecz.

Propagated by seeds, offsets, and by the tiny bulblets
on the upper portion of the stem. Sow seeds as soon as
ripe, or early in the year, thinly in pans, so that the
young plants may pass a second season in the seed-pots
or pans. Place in a cool house or frame, and keep the
plants close to the glass during their early stages, as they
are very liable to damp-off. Early the third season pot
off and plant singly, encouraging them to grow freely.
The offsets are best removed when the plants are in a
dormant state, placed in pots or pans, or planted out in
pits or frames until they reach flowering size.

Calodendron. Rutacca.

Increased by cuttings of half-ripened wood placed in
sand under a glass, in gentle bottom heat.

198 THE NURSERY LIST.

Calophyllum. Guttifera:.

Increased by cuttings made from the naif-ripened
shoots, which root freely in sand if placed under a glass
in bottom heat.

Calopogon. Orchidacece.

Increased by offsets taken from the tuberous roots.
Calothamnus. Myrtacece.

Increased by cuttings of young wood, firm at the base.
Place in sand and cover with a hand-glass.

Caltha (Marsh Marigold, "Cowslip" in America). Ranun-

culacece.

Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe, or by divid-
ing the roots in early spring, or in summer after flowering.

Calycanthus (Sweet-scented Shrub, Allspice). Calycan-

thacece.

Increased by seeds sown in a coldframe ; by divisions
or offsets, and by layers put down in summer.

Calypso. Orchidacecs.

Increased by offsets.
Calystegia (Hedge Bindweed, Bearbind). Convolvulacete .

Propagated by seeds sown in spring, or by dividing the
plants.

Camassia. Liliacecz.

Propagated by seeds sown in a warm situation out-
door or in pots or boxes under glass. The young plants
should remain at least two years in the seed-beds. Also
increased by offsets, which are produced very freely, and
which should be removed either when in a dormant con-
dition, or just previous to starting into fresh growth, and
arranged in clumps or rows, placing a little sand about
them.

Camellia, including Thea ("Japonica," Japanese Rose).

Ternstrcemiacece.

The single red camellia by either seeds, layers or cut-
tings. Double and variegated camellias by layers, but
cuttings will succeed. Seeds give suitable stocks on
which to inarch or graft the rarer kinds. The ripened
shoots of the preceding summer should be taken off in
August. Two or three of the lower leaves should be
removed, and the cuttings planted firmly in the soil with a

CAMOMILE CANNA. IQ9

dibble. The pans containing the cuttings should be kept
in a box or coldframe, without being covered with glass,
but shaded during bright sunshine. In the following
spring, such as have struck will begin to push, when they
need to be placed in a gentle heat. Make cuttings during
winter while one-year-old wood is dormant. Inarching or
grafting is done in early spring, as soon as growth com-
mences (Figs. 138, 139).

Camomile. See Anthemis.

Campanula (Bell-flower, Slipperwort). Campanulacece.

Increased by seeds. The perennials are also propa-
gated by dividing the roots, or by young cuttings in
spring.

Camphora (Camphor-tree). Lauracece.

Increased by cuttings and seeds.
Campion. See Silene.
Candollea. Dilleniacece.

Increased sometimes by seeds, but usually by cuttings,
which will root if placed under a hand-glass in a compost
of equal parts loam and peat, with enough sand to render
the whole porous.

Candytuft. See Iberis.

Canella. Canellacea.

Increased by well-ripened cuttings taken off at the joint.
They will root in sand under a hand-glass, with bottom
heat, in spring ; but care should be taken not to deprive
them of any of their leaves.

Canna (Indian Shot). Scitaminece.

Propagated by seeds sown in heat in late winter. The
seeds are very hard, and germination will be materially
stimulated if they are filed (see page 18) and then soaked
in tepid water for twenty-four hours. They should be
sown thinly in pans (a mixture of sand and leaf-loam is
best for them), and a covering of one and one-half or two
inches of earth is not excessive. It is a good plan to sow
the seeds singly in small pots. Seeds give new varieties.
Also increased by divisions ; they form a large crown or
stool of strong buds, each portion of which, with bud and
roots attached, may be converted into an independent
plant (Fig. 27). Named varieties are multiplied in this
manner. For ordinary planting-out, the divided crowns

2OO THE NURSERY LIST.

are usually set directly in the open. If very early effects
are desired, however, the pieces may be started on in pots;
and this is always done by dealers, for they send out grow-
ing plants. As soon as frost comes in the fall, the tops are
cut, and the crowns lifted and stored in a dry, cool cellar
on shelves. Care must be taken that the cellar be given
plenty of air until the roots are thoroughly cured, else they
may rot.

Cannabis (Hemp). Urticacece.

Propagated by seeds sown in spring.
Cantua. Polemoniacea.

Increased by cuttings placed in sand under glass.
Capparis (Caper). Capparidacece.

Propagated by cuttings of ripe shoots, which will root in
sand under glass, in moist heat. Seeds, when obtainable.

Capsicum. See Pepper, Red.

Caragana (Siberian Pea-tree). Leguminosez.

Propagated by seeds and by root cuttings ; the low-
growing shrubs by seeds and layers. Caraganas are gen-
erally increased by grafting on C. arborescens, which is
easily raised from seeds, sown when ripe or in spring.

Cardamine (Lady's Smock). Cruciferce.

Seeds. Propagated easily by division after flowering.
Cardinal-flower. See Lobelia.
Carex (Sedge). Cyperacecz.

Propagated by seeds, or by division, usually the latter.
Seeds often lie dormant the first year.

Careya. Myriacece.

Propagated by division, or by ripened cuttings, which
root freely if planted in sand under a hand-glass, and
placed in moist bottom heat.

Carica (Papaw-tree). Passifloracece.

Propagated by cuttings of ripe shoots with their leaves
on. They root readily in a sandy soil and in a gentle
bottom heat. Seeds, when obtainable. Sow in heat.

Carnation. Caryophyllacecs .

By propagating by »eeds, new varieties are raised. Sow
the seeds in spring, and in a slight hotbed or in a green-

CAROB CASHEW. 2OI

house. Also propagated by layering, which should be
done at the end of July or the beginning of August. The
shoots selected should be denuded of a few of their leaves
at the base of the young wood, and a slit must be made
from this point upwards, extending through a joint of the
bare stem, so that a tongue is formed. This is the
method employed in Europe. See Fig. 31.

In this country, always increased by cuttings. It is
necessary to have a slight bottom heat, and on it put four
or five inches of light soil, covered with clean sand. The
cuttings must be long enough to have a tolerably firm
base, and they should either be taken with a heel or cut off
at a joint, and firmly inserted in the soil. See Fig. 69, b.

Carol), Algaroba, or St. John's Bread (Ceratonia siliqua}.

Leguminosce.

Stocks are obtained by seeds. The seeds are often
treated to scalding water before sowing, in the same man-
ner as locust seeds. Varieties are grafted or budded on
the seedlings, or they may be multiplied by means of
hard-wood cuttings in frames.

Carpinus (Hornbeam). Cupulifercz.

Increased by seeds, which germinate irregularly. Varie-
ties propagated by budding or grafting on seedling stocks.

Carrion Flower. See Stapelia.
Carthamus (SafHower). Composite?.

Increased by seeds sown in a gentle heat in spring.
Carya. See Hicoria.
Caryocar (Butternut). Ternstrczmiacecz :

Increased by ripened cuttings, which will root in sand
in heat. Seeds, if obtainable.

Caryophyllus (Clove-tree). Myrtacea.

Increased by cuttings of firm shoots with the leaves left
on. These will root if planted in sand in a moist heat.

Caryopteris. Verbenacecz.

Propagated by seeds, by division, or by cuttings.
Caryota. Palmaceez.

Increased easily by seeds or by suckers.
Cashew See Anacardium.

202 THE NURSERY LIST.

Cassandra (Leather Leaf). Ericacea.

Propagated by seeds very carefully sown, or by layers.
Sow seeds in peat or on live sphagnum moss.

Cassava (Manihot Aipe]. Euphorbiacece.

Propagated by cuttings of the stem and by suckers.
Cut the large main stalks into pieces from 4 to 6 inches
. long, and set them perpendicularly into the ground in the
field. The cuttings can be struck at various times, but
spring is usually preferred. The stalks can be kept over
winter by covering with sand on a dry knoll, placing the
stalks and sand in layers. Cover the whole with boards
to shed the water. Suckers which appear during summer
can be removed and planted or made into cuttings.

Cassia. Leguminoscz.

Annuals and biennials by seeds, which must be sown in
spring, in a gentle heat. The shrubby species by cuttings
of half-ripened shoots, which will root in heat. C Mary-
landica also by division.

Cassine . Celastracece.

Increased by ripened cuttings, which will readily strike
root if planted in a pot of sand with glass over them.

Castalia. See Nymphaea.

Castanea. See Chestnut and Chinquapin.

Castor Bean. See Ricinus.

Casuarina (Beefwood) Casuarinece.

Propagated by seeds ; or by cuttings made of half-
ripened shoots, placed in sand under glass.

Catalpa. Bignoniacetz.

Increased by seeds, and by cuttings made of the ripe
wood. The named varieties and C. Bungei are propa
gated by soft cuttings in June and July. Grafts are also
used, setting them upon seedlings of C. spedosa or C.
bignonioides.

Catananche. Composites.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in spring.
Also by division.

Catchfly. See Silene.

CATESB^EA — CELERY. 203

Catesbaea (Lily Thorn). Rubiacea.

Propagated by cuttings planted in sand in spring, and
plunged in heat.

Catnip, or Catmint (Nepeta Cataria}. Labiata.

Seeds. Division.
Cat-Tail. See Typha.
Cattleya. Orchidacea.

Increased by the pseudo-bulbs. (See under Orchids. )
Cauliflower. See Cabbage.
Caulophyllum (Blue Cohosh). Berberidacecz.

Propagated by divisions of the roots, made in early
spring or after flowering. Also by seeds, stratified.

Ceanothus. Rhamnacece.

Increased by layers, which is the readiest way of obtain-
ing strong plants, or by cuttings, which should be inserted
in a coldframe. Stratified seeds.

Cedar. See Cedrus and Juniperus.

Cedrela (Bastard Cedar). Meliacetz.

Increased by large ripened cuttings, placed in sand, in
heat. C. Sinensis by root-cuttings.

Cedronella. Labiates.

The herbaceous species by division of the roots or by
cuttings of young wood. C. triphylla by cuttings.

Cedrus (Cedar). Conifercr.

Increased by seeds, which are difficult to extract from
the cones. Gather the cones in spring, and sow the seeds
immediately in pans. Varieties are propagated by veneer
grafts.

Celastrus (Staff-tree, Bitter-sweet). Celastracecz :

Propagated by seeds and suckers ; also by layering the
hardy species in autumn. Ripened cuttings will root
freely in a compost of loam, peat and sand.

Celery ( Apium graveolens}. Untbelliferce.

By seeds, as described on pages 5, 22 ; or, for the early
crop, sow under glass, as in a hotbed.

204 THE NURSERY LIST.

Celosia (Cockscomb). Amarantaceez.

Propagated by seed sown in spring, in pans or frames,
or in the open.

Celsia. Scrophulariacece.

Increased by seeds, which may be sown in the open
border and thinned out for flowering, or raised in nursery
beds and transplanted. C. Arcturus should be increased
by cuttings, the young wood striking freely in a cool
house or frame.

Celtis ( Nettle-tree ) . Urticacecz.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown as soon as
ripe. By layers, and by cuttings of ripened shoots in
autumn.

Centaurea. Composites.

Annuals by seeds, which may be sown in the open
border. To propagate C. Cineraria and some others,
sow seeds in August in slight heat, or make cuttings about
the beginning of September.

Centranthus. Valerianacea.

Increased by seeds sown in spring.

Centropogon. Lobeliacece.

Increased by seeds, by divisions and by cuttings from
any young shoots 3 or 4 inches long. Take off with a
heel and place in sharp sandy soil, close around the edge
of the pot, and then keep close under a propagating box,
in a temperature ranging between 60° and °7o.

Ccphalanthus ( Button-Bush ) . Rubiacece.

Seeds. Propagated by layers, or ripened cuttings in
autumn.

Cerastium. Caryophyllacecs.

Propagated by seeds and divisions, or by cuttings in-
serted in the open ground in a shady place, after
flowering.

Ceratiola. Empetracece.

Increased by seeds and by cuttings, which should be
placed in sandy soil under glass.

Cer*tonia. See Carob,

CERATOZAMIA CHELONE. 2O5

Ceratozamia. Cycadacea.

By seeds, and sometimes by suckers and divisions,
but imported plants give most satisfaction. See Cycas.

Cercidiphyllum. Magnoliacece .

Propagated by tender cuttings made during the sum-
mer, and slightly wilted before placing in the frames. By
seeds, when procurable.

Cercis (Red-bud, Judas-tree). Leguminvsce.

Propagated by seeds, sown about the end of March on a
bed of light soil, in a gentle heat. They may also be in-
creased by layers, but plants raised from seeds thrive best.
It is not necessary to stratify the seeds. C. Japonica is
grown from soft cuttings in early summer.

Cereus. See Cactus.
Ceropegia. Asclepiadacetz.

Propagated by cuttings of small side shoots made in

spring, which will root in sand, in heat, with or without

a glass covering.

Cestrum, including Habrothamnus. Solanacece.

Propagated by cuttings in August, or whenever the
wood is fit.

Chamaecyparis. Coniferce.

Propagated by seeds freely, also by layers, but mainly
by cuttings put in during October in a cool greenhouse.
Select young side shoots with a heel ; insert in well-
drained pots of sandy soil, and place in a close cold-
frame, keeping fairly moist through the winter. In Feb-
ruary they should be callused, and should be placed in
gentle heat, where they will root freely. See Retinospora.

Chamasrops, including Corypha. Palmacece.

Increased by seeds, or by suckers, which generally
appear in considerable quantities.

Chamomile. See Anthemis.

Chard. See Beet.

Cheilanthcs. See Ferns.

Chelone ( Turtle-head ) . Scrophulariacetz.

Increased by means of seeds. Also by dividing the

plant during fall. Young cuttings inserted in sandy soil

in a coldframe grow well.

206 THE NURSERY LIST.

Cherry (Prunus Avium, P. Cerasus, etc.). Rosacece.

Cherry stocks are commonly grown from seeds. If the
ground is in readiness, and is in proper condition, the
seeds may be planted in fall, or even as soon as they are
ripe. If stored until spring, they must be stratified and
kept very cool to prevent germination, and they should
be sown at the earliest possible moment. They do not
need to be cracked by hand. Care must be taken that
cherry pits do not become hard and dry. This precau-
tion is more important with cherries than with peaches
and plums. At the close of the first season, the seed-
lings will be a foot or foot and a-half high, large enough
to transplant into nursery rows, after the manner of
apples, where they are budded the following season. In
warm climates the pits are sometimes cracked as soon as
they are gathered, and the "meats" planted immedi-
ately. They will then make stocks fit for grafting the
following winter, or for transplanting and budding the
following summer. Cherry seeds must never be allowed
to become so dry that the meat is hard and brittle.

Cherries, in common with other stone fruits, grow read-
ily from root-cuttings, in the same manner as blackber-
ries. They do better if started over a gentle heat.

The Mazzard cherry is the stock upon which cherries
are recommended to be worked. It is simply a hardy
and vigorous variety, with inferior fruit, of the common
sweet cherry (Prunus Avium}. Seeds of this are read-
ily procured in this country. As a matter of fact, how-
ever, nearly all sour cherries are worked upon the Maha-
leb in this country, as they take better upon it, and the
stocks are cheap. Sweet cherries are often budded upon
the Mahaleb, but it is a question if such practice is best.
The Mazzard is such a strong grower that the bud is
often "drowned out" by the flow of sap. In order to
avoid this exuberance, nurserymen often pinch in the
tips of the stocks a few days before they are to be
worked. The Mazzard is also liable to leaf-blight, and
to serious injury from the black aphis, so that the bark
often sets before the operator has had time to finish his
plantation. Mazzards usually have a shorter budding
season than Mahalebs, and are less uniform in behavior ;
and for these reasons, Mahalebs are widely used. This
is a distinct species, Prunus Mahaleb, from Southern
Europe. The seeds or stocks are imported. Mahaleb
stocks are recommended in the books for dwarfing the
cherry, but the dwarfing depends more upon pruning

CHERRY. 207

Cherry, continued.

than upon the Mahaleb root. The Mahaleb is naturally
a smaller tree than the Mazzard, however. It is said
that the Mahaleb is better adapted to heavy clay soils
than the Mazzard, but in practice it is used indiscrimi-
nately for all soils and nearly all varieties.

Morello (Prunus Cerasus] stocks will no doubt prove to
be valuable in the northwest, where great hardiness is de-
manded. Seedlings do not sprout or sucker badly, but
the natural suckers, which are sometimes used for stocks,
are likely to be more troublesome in this respect. If
strong-growing tops are worked on Morello stocks, how-
ever, there is usually little annoyance from suckering.
Mahaleb stocks are generally used for the Morello
cherries.

It is probable that some of the native American cher-
ries can be used as stocks. The common wild red, pin,
pigeon or bird cherry (Prunus Pennsylvania) has al-
ready been used to some extent. The sweet and sour
cherries unite readily with it, and bear very early. It is
yet to be determined how long the trees will persist, but
there are trees known which are sixteen or eighteen years
old, and which are still healthy and vigorous. It is con-
sidered to be a very promising stock for the cold prairie
states. The dwarf or sand cherries (Prunus pumila and
P. Besseyi) give promise as dwarf stocks.

Cherry stocks are worked both by budding and graft-
ing. Budding is the common method. The stocks
should be fit to work the season they are transplanted,
or in the second summer from seed. Such as are too
small for working then may be allowed to stand until
the following year ; or if the number is small, the poor
ones are rooted out.

In the west, where great hardiness is required, the varie-
ties are crown-grafted upon Mazzard stocks in winter.
Yearling stocks are used, and the cions are from 6 to 10
inches long. When planted, only the top bud should be
left above ground. The cion strikes roots, and own-
rooted trees are obtained.

The ornamental cherries are worked upon the same
stocks as the fruit-bearing sorts. Mahaleb and Mazzard
are commonly used for all species, the latter for weeping
forms which need to be worked high.

Cherry trees can be top-grafted as readily as apple or
pear trees, and the same methods are employed. They
are usually grafted very early in the spring. The chief

208 THE NURSERY LIST.

Cherry, concluded.

requisite is that the cions be completely dormant. They
should be cut in winter and stored in an ice-house or a
cold cellar.

Chervil (Chcerophyllum bulbosum and Scandix cerefolium).
Umbelliferce .

Seeds, sown much the same as celery seeds, but the
plants are usually allowed to stand where sown. Seed is
often sown in autumn.

Chestnut (Castanea sativa and var. Americana, and C.
Japonica). Cupulifercs.

Chestnut stocks are grown from seed. Difficulty is
sometimes experienced in keeping the seeds, as they lose
their vitality if dried too hard, and are likely to become
moldy if allowed to remain moist. The surest way is to
allow the nuts to become well dried off or "seasoned " in
the fall, and then stratify them in a box with three or four
times as much sand as chestnuts, and bury the box a foot
or two deep in a warm soil until spring. They do not
always keep well if stored or stratified in a cellar. Fall
planting exposes the nuts to squirrels and mice. Ameri-
can stocks are better than European, because the latter
are tender in the north.

The stocks are worked by whip-grafting above ground,
the wound being well tied and protected by waxed cloth.
Care should be taken to have the stock and cion about the
same size, in order to secure a good union. Chestnuts
can be cleft-grafted like apples and pears ; but in small
trees it is preferable to set the grafts below ground, as
in grapes. The cions should be cut early, before they
begin to swell, and kept perfectly dormant until the stock
begins to push into leaf. Only vigorous stocks should be
grafted. The best results are obtained when the stocks
have recovered from transplanting, or when they are from
three to five years old. The working of chestnut stocks
is far from satisfactory in a commercial way. The union
is imperfect in many varieties, and usually no more than
half the grafts take well and live long. In all nut trees,
the skill of the operator is more important than the par-
ticular method employed.

Chicory (Cichorium Intybus}. Composites.

Seeds, sown in spring where the plants are to grow.
Division.

CHILOPSIS CHRYSANTHEMUM. 2OQ

Chilopsis (Desert Willow). Bignoniacece.

Increased by seeds, or by cuttings of half-ripened shoots
in sand under glass, in a gentle bottom heat.

Chimonanthus. Calycanthacecz.

Propagated by layering in the autumn.
China Aster. See Callistephus.
Chinquapin ( Castanea pumila}. Cupulifercz.

By seeds. Can be handled in same manner as chest-
nut, which see.

Chiococca (Snowberry). Rubiacecz.

Propagated by cuttings, which strike root freely in sand
under glass, in heat.

Chionanthus (Fringe-tree). Oleacecz.

Increased by seeds, which should be started in a cold-
frame. By layers and cuttings. By grafting or budding
it on the common ash, it succeeds very well.

Chionodoxa. Liliacecz.

Propagated by seeds, which are produced freely. They
should be sown as soon as ripe. By bulbels.

Chironia. Gentianacecz.

Increased by seeds, and by cuttings inserted in sandy
soil and placed in a gentle heat in spring.

Chives, or Gives (Allium Schoenoprasu m ) . Liliace<z.

Division of the clumps.
Choisya. Rutacecz.

Increased by ripened cuttings.
Christ's Thorn. See Paliurus.

Chrysanthemum. Composite.

Increased by seeds to obtain new varieties ; these
should be sown in spring. Division may be made, but
this is not often practiced. Usually propagated by cut-
tings about three inches long, of firm, healthy, short-
jointed shoots, which spring from the base of the plant
after the flowering season. They should be made in late
winter or spring, and placed near the glass of a rather
close frame having a temperature of about 45°. If in-
serted in pots, only the lower leaf should be removed ; if
in beds, the remaining foliage should also be trimmed to

2IO THE NURSERY LIST.

admit air. Insert about half of the cutting, press the soil
firmly, and water. Leaf cuttings have been employed.
Inarching and grafting may also be performed, when it
is desired to grow two or more varieties on one plant.

The time at which chrysanthemum cuttings should be
taken depends upon the season at which bloom is wanted,
and the methods of cultivation. The plants may be flow-
ered in pots, or in a solid soil bench. Very good small
plants may be brought to perfection in 6-inch pots, but
the best results, in pot plants, are to be obtained in 8-inch
or lo-inch pots. If the plants are to be used for dec-
oration, they should, of course, be grown in pots, but the
best results for cut-flowers are usually obtained by grow-
ing in the earth. In any case, the cuttings are made from
the tips of basal or strong lateral shoots, late in February
to May. One form of cutting is shown in Fig. 71. If the
plants are to be flowered in pots — in which case they usu-
ally mature earlier — the cuttings may be started as late as
April, or even June ; but if they are grown in the soil and
large plants are desired, the cuttings should b'e taken in
February or March. The plants which are flowered in the
soil are generally grown in pots until July. The plants
are flowered but once, new ones being grown from cut-
tings each year.

The Marguerite or Paris Daisy (C. frute^cens and C.
fceniciilaceum] are propagated by cuttings of firm shoots,
like geraniums.

Chrysobalanus (Coco Plum). Rosacets.

Increased by seeds when procurable. Large cuttings,
however, taken off at a joint without shortening of leaves,
will root readily if planted thinly in a pot of sand, and
placed in moist heat with a bell-glass over them.

Chrysocoma (Goldy-locks). Composite.

Propagated by seeds, or by cuttings of half-ripened
shoots, placed in sand under glass. Seeds.

Chrysogonum. Composite.

Seeds. Increased by dividing the roots in spring.

Chrysophyllum (Star Apple). Sapotacece.

Increased by seeds when procurable. By cuttings of
small, well-ripened shoots, plunged in strong, moist heat.

Cicca (Otaheite Gooseberry). Euphorbiacecs.

Seeds. By cuttings of ripe shoots, which will root in
sand if placed under a glass and in bottom heat.

CIMICIFUGA C1STUS. 211

Cimicifuga (Bugwort). Ranunculacece.

Increased by seeds, sown in a coldframe or border as
soon as ripe ; or by division of the roots in spring.

Cinchona (Peruvian Bark). Rubiacetz.

Imported seeds, and cuttings taken off when ripe and
planted in a pot of sand, under glass, in a moist heat.

Cineraria. Composites.

Seeds should be sown under glass ; those intended for
autumn flowering in April and May, those for spring in
July and August. Light leaf-mold should be used, and
about an equal quantity of fresh sifted loam and sharp
sand added, the whole being well mixed. Old cow-ma-
nure is a good medium in which to sow (see page 20).
Also by divisions and by cuttings.

Cinquefoil. See Potentilla.

Cipura. Iridacecz,

Propagated by seeds, which should be sown in a slight
heat in spring ; or by bulbels, which are abundantly
produced.

Cissampelos. Menispermacecz.

Propagated by cuttings, which root readily in heat.

Cissus. Vitacecc.

Propagated by cuttings in the spring. Choose the
weakly shoots that are pruned just before the plants
break into new growth, or allow the young shoots to
grow to a length of about two inches. Then cut them
off, with a small piece of the basal branch adhering to the
young wood ; or the shoots may be cut off with one or
several of these young branchlets on them. Cut the old
branch through at the base of each young one, and in-
sert the cutting with this heel of the old wood entire.
In this country, usually grown from common green cut-
tings in summer.

Cistus (Rock Rose). Cistacecs.

Propagated by seeds, by layers or cuttings under frames
outside, or inside with a gentle bottom heat ; but seed-
lings always make the best plants. The seeds should
be sown early in the spring' in pans or boxes in a frame,
arid lightly covered with sifted sandy mold. Cuttings

212 THE NURSERY LIST.

should be made from 3 to 4 inches long. They may be
struck in spring or autumn, in sandy peat, under glass.

Citron ( Citrus Medica ) . Rutacecz.

Seeds, which usually reproduce the kind. Mature cut-
tings, the same as lemon. Also budded on orange,
lemon or lime stocks.

Citrus. Rutacea.

Increased by seeds, layers, cuttings, inarching, grafting
and budding. For particular methods, see ^Egle, Citron,
Kumquat, Lemon, Lime, Orange and Pomelo.

Cladrastis (Yellow wood). Leguminosce.

Propagated by seeds sown in the open air in spring, or
by cuttings of the root.

Clarkia. Onagracece.

Increased by seeds, which may be sown in spring or
autumn outdoors.

Clematis (Virgin's Bower). Ranunculacecz.

Clematis may be increased by seeds. The seed-heads
should be gathered before autumn, and stratified till the
following spring, when the seeds may be sown in light,
sandy soil, and placed in gentle heat till they germinate.
By layers outside, put in at any time. All the varieties
of clematis may also be increased by cuttings made of
the young shoots, which may be cut up to every eye and
planted in gentle heat. Also by grafting any of the
varieties on portions of clematis roots in winter. Good,
healthy pieces of root obtained from old plants answer
the purpose well. See also Atragene.

Cleome. Capparidacece.

Increased by seeds sown in a frame in spring, with
slight warmth. Ripened cuttings root freely in moderate
heat.

Clerodendron, Volkameria. Verbenacece.

Increased by seed, which, if sown when ripe or in the
spring, and grown on in heat, may be converted into
flowering plants the second season. Propagated also by
cuttings of both green and mature wood ; also of roots.
Suckers. The climbing varieties do not root quite so
readily from cuttings as the others, but cuttings of the
ripened wood do well.

CLETHRA COCKSCOMB. 2IJ

Clethra. Ericacece.

Propagated by seeds (as for Andromeda), divisions
and layers. Cuttings taken from the half-ripened wood
will root in gentle heat.

Clianthus (Glory Pea, Parrot Beak). Leguminosce.

C. Dampieri is best raised from seeds, which should
be sown singly in good-sized pots, when the necessity of
first shifting will be obviated. C. puniceus and others
from cuttings, which strike easily in sand in bottom heat.

Clintoaia. Liliacece.

Propagated by seeds, and by division of the root in
spring.

Clitoria. Leguminosce.

The best method of increasing is by seeds. Increased
also by cuttings of stubby side shoots, which will root in
sandy soil, in heat.

Cliva, Imantophyllum. Amaryllidacece.
Propagated by seeds or divisions.

Clove-tree. See Caryophyllus.

Clusia (Balsam-tree). Guttiferce.

Increased by cuttings of half-ripened shoots, which will
strike in sand, with bottom heat.

Cob sea. Polemoniacece.

Readily raised from fresh seed in spring, if a gentle bot-
tom heat is supplied. It is often said that the seeds must
be placed on edge, but this is a mistake. Exercise care
not to keep the seed soil too moist. From cuttings taken
when young, in spring, and inserted in pots of sandy soil,
placed in gentle bottom heat.

Coccoloba (Seaside Grape). Polygonacece \

Propagated by seeds and by cuttings of the ripened
wood, with leaves entire, and taken off at a joint. These
will root freely in sand under glass.

Cocculus, Wendlandia. Menispermacece .

By seeds. By half-ripened cuttings of side shoots ;
these will root easily in spring or summer, if planted in
sand and placed in bottom heat, under glass.

Cockscomb. See Celosia.

214 THE NURSERY LIST.

Cocoanut ( Cocos nucifera}. Palmacea.

The nuts are buried in nursery rows, and the young
trees are transplanted. A more common practice is to
remove the buried nuts, when they begin to sprout, to the
place in which the tree is to stand. A nut is then placed
in a hole some two feet deep, which is gradually filled in
as the plant grows. In from six to eight years the tree
begins to bear. See Palms.

Cocos. Palmacece.

Most species by seeds in heat. Some by suckers. See
Cocoanut, above.

Codiaeum, Croton. Euphorbiacecz.

New varieties are produced by seed. Increased by tak-
ing off the tops of any strong leading shoots, and making
them into cuttings. They may be struck by placing singly
in small pots and covering with bell-glasses, in strong,
moist heat, where they will soon emit roots, without losing
any of the leaves attached at the time they were inserted.
Or they may be placed in a bed of sand.

Coffea (Coffee-tree). Rubiacece,

Propagated by seeds. Also by ripe cuttings, which
strike freely in sand under glass, in moist heat ; and the
young plants so raised produce flowers and fruit more
readily than those grown from seed.

Coffee-tree, Kentucky. See Gymnocladus.

Colchicum (Autumn Crocus). Liliacece.

Seeds, sown as soon as ripe in a protected place. Sep-
aration.

Coleus. Labiate.

Increased by seeds (which grow readily) for new varie-
ties. By cuttings with the greatest freedom at almost any
time of the year, and, with a good, moist heat, they will
quickly form fine specimens. (Fig. 70.)

Collinsonia. Labiate?.

Increased readily by dividing roots of the perennials in
spring ; also seeds.

Colocasia. As for Caladium.
Columbine. See Aquilegia.

COLUTEA CORDIA. 215

Colutea (Bladder Senna). Leguminosce.

Propagated by seeds, or by cuttings placed in sandy soil
in the autumn.

Combretum. Combretacece.

Increased by cuttings of side shoots, taken off with a
heel, planted in sand under glass, and placed in heat.
Seeds, if obtainable.

Comfrey. See Symphytum.
Commelina. Commelinactig,

Increased by seeds. By cuttings, which will root in
sand, in a gentle hotbed.

Comparettia. Orchidacece.

Increased by division of the plants. (See under
Orchids. 1

Comptonia (Myrica asplenifolia, Sweet Fern). Myricacece.
Seeds ; by dividing the clumps, and by layers, which
should be put down in autumn.

Conifers. See the various genera, as Abies, Picea, Larix,
Cedrus, Retinospora, Thuya, Juniperus, etc.

Conocarpus ( Button-tree ) . Combretacece.

Seeds. Increased by cuttings of firm shoots, taken in
April, in bottom heat.

Convallaria (Lily-of-the- Valley). Liliacece.

Increased by "crowns" or "pips" (see Fig. 26), which
are the separated growing points of the roots, possessing
a strong bud. These crowns can be obtained from any
well established bed in the fall, but they are usually
imported.

Convolvulus (Bindweed). Convolvulacece.

Seeds of the hardy annuals should be sown in spring in
the open border. The hardy perennials may be increased
by seeds sown in spring, by division of the roots, and by
young cuttings.

Coptis. Ranunculacece ,

Propagated by seeds and division of the roots.
Cordia. Borraginacece.

Seeds. Increased by cuttings, green or ripe, which
strike root readily in sand, in heat.

2l6 THE NURSERY LIST.

Cordyline (Dracaena, Dragon-tree). Liliacea.

Seeds, if fresh ones are obtainable, for many of the
species. The varieties (as the greenhouse dracaenas), by
cuttings. Chinese layers (Fig. 34) succeed fairly well.
The stems of old plants may be cut up in pieces i or 2
inches long, and placed at any season in cocoanut fiber
or light soil, in the bottom heat of a propagating house.
The tops of the plants will also strike as cuttings, and the
fleshy base of the stem is sometimes removed and used
for propagation. Root cuttings do well in a moderate
heat, and are much used. (See Fig. 63.)

Corema (Portugal Crakeberry, Crowberry). Empetracece.
Seeds.

Coreopsis, Calliopsis. Composite.

The hardy annuals, which are largely grown under the
name of calliopsis for summer ornamentation, by seeds,
which should be sown in early spring in a gentle heat, or
outside later. The perennials are propagated also by
division of the root in autumn or spring, or during the
summer by young cuttings, which will strike freely in a
coldframe.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum). UmbellifercE.

Seeds sown in fall or spring.
Corn. See Maize.

Corn Salad (Valerianella, several species). Valerianacece.

Seeds sown in spring, summer or autumn. The plants
mature quickly.

Cornus (Dogwood, Osier). Cornacece.

Increased by seed, suckers of soft wood, layers or cut-
tings. The herbaceous species, C. Canadensis and C.
Suecica, may be increased by division, as also by seeds.
The willow-like cornuses grow from cuttings of ripe wood,
C. stolonifera and its kin by layers or stolons. Named
varieties and some species are budded in many cases,
especially all the weak-growing sorts. Cornus Mas,
raised from seed, is the favorite stock. Shield-budding in
late summer and veneer-grafting are most successful. A
cutting is shown in Fig. 60.

Coronilla. Leguminosce.

By seeds sown as soon as ripe. The hardy species by

CORTUSA COTYLEDON. 217

division. Cuttings strike freely if placed in a coldframe or
a cool house under a hand-glass in spring, and when cal-
lused, introduced to gentle bottom heat.

Cortusa. Primulacece.

Increased by seed sown as soon as ripe, in a coldframe ;
. also .by carefully dividing the roots.

Corydalis. Fumariacetz.

Increased by seeds, or by dividing the plants directly
after flowering. The bulbous-rooted species by offsets.

Corylus (Hazel, Filbert, Cob-nut). Cupuliferfz.

Propagated by seeds, suckers, layers or cuttings.
Grafting and budding are each practicable, and are
adopted when growing tall standards or scarce varieties.
The seed of all should be sown as soon as gathered, or
stored in sand till the following spring. All superior
varieties should be increased by suckers or layers. Stools
kept for layering must be allowed to make more growth
than those used for suckers. Free growth must be en-
couraged for a year or more, and, any suitable time in
winter, the shoots should be bent to the ground, pegged
firmly, and covered to the depth of 3 inches with earth.
They will be well rooted by the following autumn, and

. .may then be removed and planted out permanently.

Cosmos. Composites.

Seeds, usually started under glass. The tuberiferous
species like Dahlia, which see.

Costus. Scitaminece.

Increased by dividing the roots.

Cotoneaster. Rosacecz,

Propagated readily by seed, which should be sown in
spring ; by layers or cuttings in autumn, or by grafting on
C. vulgaris, the common quince, or the hawthorn.

Cotton ( Gossypium ) . Malvacece.

Seeds commonly. When grown as a curiosity under
glass, it may be increased by soft cuttings.

Cotyledon (Navel wort). Crassulacece.

Increased by seed, offsets, cuttings of the stem, and by
leaves. The leaves should be pulled off in autumn, laid
on dry sand in pans on a shelf in a propagating or other

2l5 THE NURSERY LIST.

warm house, and not watered until small plants appear at
the ends of the leaves.

Cow-pea. See Vigna.

Cowslip. See Primula and Caltha.

Crambe. Cruciferce.

Increased by seeds, by dividing the roots and by root
cuttings. See Sea-kale.

Cranberry ( Vaccinium macrocarpon}. Ericacece.

The cultivated cranberry is propagated entirely by cut-
tings. These are made from vigorous young runners,
from 6 to 10 inches in length, and they are thrust obliquely
into the soil until only an inch or two of the tip projects.
Some blunt instrument, as a stick, is commonly used to
force them into the sand of cranberry bogs. Planting is
done in the spring, and the cuttings are taken just previ-
ous to the operation. If cranberry seedlings are desired,
the seeds should be sown in flats of peaty earth, which are
stored until spring in some protected place, in the manner
of stratification boxes. The seeds should be covered
lightly, preferably with fine moss. The plants are allowed
to grow the first year in the box.

Crassula. Crassulacece.

Seeds ; also by cuttings, which should be taken off and
laid for two or three days in the sun to dry before planting.

Crataegus (Haw, Hawthorn). Rosacecz.

Propagated by stratified seeds, which remain dormant
for one or two years. Some growers spread the haws in
shallow piles in the fall, and allow them to decay, so that
most of the pulp is* removed before they are stratified.
Haws often come irregularly, even from stratified seeds.
The varieties are grafted, rarely budded, on common
stocks.

Cress (Lepidium sativuni). Crucifertz.

Seeds, sown at any time of year. See Water Cress.
Cress, American. See Barbarea.
Cress, Rock. See Arabis.

Crinum. Amaryllidacecs.

Increased by seeds, sown singly as soon as ripe in three
or four-inch pots, in sandy loam and leaf-mold. Place in

CRITHMUM — CUCUMBER. 2IQ

a temperature of from 70° to 80°, and keep rather dry
until the plants appear, when more moisture should be
applied. Also increased by offsets, which should be re-
moved when rather small and potted separately, and
grown as recommended for seedlings.

Crithmum. Umbelliferez.

Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe, and by
divisions.

Crocosmia. Iridaceez.

Propagated by seeds sown in pans in a cold house as
soon as possible after maturity. Also by offsets.

Crocus. Iridacecz.

Propagated by seed, sown as soon as ripe or early in
spring, the choicer strains in pots or boxes, using a light,
sandy soil, and afterwards placing them in a cold pit or
frame ; the more common varieties may be placed in a
warm position outside in a seed-bed. Sow thinly, so that
the plants may grow two years in the seed-pan or bed
without lifting. By the cprms. These may be lifted and
replanted, allowing each in its turn to develop new corms
below. The following year new corms, or cormels, are
also formed by the side of the old corms. These old
corms die away annually. Some species increase much
more rapidly than others. (See page 31.)

Crotalaria (Rattle-box). Leguminosce.

Increased by seeds. The shrubby kinds by young cut-
tings, which root freely in sand, under glass, in a cool
house.

Croton. See Codiaeum.
Crowfoot. See Ranunculus.

Crucianella (Crosswort). Rubiace<z.

Propagated by seeds, by divisions during spring or
autumn, and by cuttings.

Cryptomeria (Japan Cedar). Conifertz.

Increased by seeds, and by cuttings of growing wood
planted in sandy soil, under glass.
Cubeba. See Piper.
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus}. Cucurbitacece.

Seeds. If sown outdoors, the operation should be
delayed until the weather is thoroughly settled.

220 THE NURSERY LIST.

Cucumber-tree. See Magnolia.

Cunninghamia (Broad-leaved China Fir). Conifer a.
Increased by seeds, and cuttings of growing wood.

Cuphea. Lythracecz.

Increased easily by seed ; but cuttings of the perennial
sorts strike freely in spring, in brisk bottom heat.

Cupressus (Cypress). Conifer ce.

Seeds may be collected in early spring, and should be
sown in April in a warm, friable soil. Cuttings of grow-
ing or mature wood, much as for Retinospora, which see.

Curculigo. Amaryllidacece.

Seeds ; also by suckers, which form at the base of
the stem.

Curcuma (Turmeric). Scitaminece .
Increased by root division.

Currant (Ribes rubrum, R. nigrum and R, aureum). Sax~

ifragacecz.

New varieties are grown from seeds, which may bt
sown in the fall or stratified until spring. Commercial
varieties are nearly always multiplied by hard-wood cut-
tings (Fig. 65). The cuttings may be taken in spring and
placed directly in the ground, but better results are ob-
tained by taking them in the fall or late summer. Many
nurserymen prefer to take them in August, strip off the
leaves, and bury them in bunches with the butts up.
They may remain in this condition or in a cellar all win
ter, or they may be planted in the fall. Currant cuttings
strike readily, however, under any method. Some grow-
ers cut out the buds which stand below the surface of the
ground, to prevent suckering, but this is not generally
practiced ; the suckers are cut off when the cuttings are
removed from the cutting-bed, either to be sold or to be
transplanted into nursery rows. Strong plants, such as
eastern markets demand, are usually obtained by allow-
ing the cuttings to stand for two years before sale.
Green layering is sometimes practiced with rare sorts, or
single eyes may be used, as in grapes. Tip-layering, as
in the black raspberry, may also be employed. (See
page 36.) Weak or low sorts are sometimes grafted
upon stronger ones, in order to give them a tree form,

CUSSONIA — CYPERUS. 221

but such bushes are grown only as curiosities or as
specimen plants.

Cussonia. Araliacece.

Increased by cuttings, which should be planted in sand,
under glass. Give slight bottom heat.

Custard Apple. See Anona.

Cyananthus. Campanulacea '.

Seeds. Strong roots may be carefully divided in
spring, but this is not desirable. Usually by cuttings,
which should be taken during spring or early summer,
and struck in sandy peat, being kept moist.

Cyanophyllum. Melastomacefz.

Increased by seed. By cuttings or eyes, which should
be placed in sand, where a good bottom heat must be
maintained, and they should be shaded from the sun.

Cyathea. See Ferns.

Cycas. Cycadacecz .

Increased by seed, and oftener by suckers. Some, and
perhaps all, of the cycads can be propagated by sections
of the old stem or trunk. Cut the trunk into truncheons
2 or 3 inches thick, usually slanting ; let the pieces dry a
few days to guard against rotting, then plant in pots or
sand. Roots will form between the scales, and new
plants will push out. These should be removed and
treated as independent plants. The severed crown of
the trunk may also be potted, and it will grow.

Cyclamen (Sowbread ) . Primulacecz.

Propagated by seed, sown when freshly gathered ; the
hardy kinds in pots placed in a cool frame. By divisions,
and leaf cuttings taken off with a heel ; but these meth-
ods are not very satisfactory.

Cypella. Iridacetz.

Propagated by seed, sown as soon as ripe in a cool
house, and by offsets.

Cyperus. Cyperacecs.

Propagated either by seed, sown in gentle heat, or by
divisions. C. alternlfolius, the umbrella-plant, propa-
gates readily from the crown or rosette of leaves. Cut
pff the crown, with an inch or two of stem remaining,

222 THE NURSERY LIST.

and set on sand or moss. Cut in the leaves. New
plants will start from the axils. See Papyrus.

Cyphia. Campanulacece .

When the stems begin to push out from the root, cut
off as many of the shoots as are required, and place them
in small pots in an equal mixture of loam, peat, and sand
in abundance. The young plants should be kept dry
until callused, but not covered with glass. They may
also be increased by cuttings, under a hand-glass in a
cool house.

Cyphomandra (Tree Tomato of Jamaica). Solanacece.

Use seeds ; or cuttings may be placed under glass, in
bottom heat.

Cypress. See Cupressus.

Cypripedium (Lady's Slipper). Orchidaceez .

By seeds sometimes ; usually by divisions. (See under
Orchids. )

Cyrilla. Cyrillacefz.

Propagated by seeds and cuttings, like Andromeda, etc.
Cyrtanthus. Amaryllidacecz.

Propagated by offsets.
Cytisus (Scotch Broom). Leguminosa.

By seeds and layers. In spring, cuttings of young
wood may be taken when about three inches long ( with
a heel preferred), placed under a bell-glass in heat, or
in a close frame, where they will root readily. If grad-
ually hardened, potted and grown on, small flowering
specimens may be obtained the following spring. C.
purpurea is usually grafted on the common laburnum.
Species of Genista are propagated the same.

Dacrydium (Tear Tree). Coniferce.

Increased by fresh seed and ripened cuttings.
Daffodil. See Narcissus.
Dahlia. Composites.

Commonly grown from tubers, which are dug in the
fall and stored in the cellar, like potatoes. Each fork of
the root may be broken apart and planted separately in
the field ; or the pieces may be started on early in pots
or boxes.

DAHLIA DAPHNE. 223

Single varieties, and sometimes the doubles, are grown
from seeds.

Dahlia tubers may be started into growth in heat late
in winter, and the young sprouts may be removed and
handled as ordinary cuttings as fast as they form, the
same as sweet potatoes are handled. These cuttings
should be removed close to the tuber or else at the first
joint (preferably the former) and handled into small pots,
where they will soon form tubers. These cutting-plants,
if 6 to 10 inches high when set in the open, make excel-
lent bloom that season, although generally giving dwarfer
plants than those grown from tubers planted directly in
the ground. Rare sorts may be increased during summer
by cuttings from the growing tips. Cions made of the
growing tips may be grafted into the roots by a cleft- or
side-graft (see page 129). This method is oftenest em-
ployed for the purpose of preserving overwinter rare sorts
which it is feared may be lost. The grafts are kept grow-
ing slowly during winter, and cuttings may be taken from
them. Sometimes cions are taken from forced plants in
late winter or early spring and set in strong tubers for out-
door planting. Cuttings should always have a bud or
buds at the base, and in propagation by division, there
must be a piece of the crown attached to the root.

Daisy. See Bellis and Chrysanthemum.

Dalbergia. Leguminoscz.

Place cuttings of firm young shoots in sand under a
glass, in spring. Give a little bottom heat.

Dandelion ( Tarajcicum officinale}. Compost fee.

Seeds, in early spring, when grown for "greens."

Daphne. Thymel&acecz.

Seeds. For layers, remove the soil in spring to a
depth of 2 or 3 inches about the plant, and fill with fine
compost to within two inches of the tops of the shoots.
The next spring, carefully wash away the compost, and
plant the small white buds in pots of fine soil. Place in
a cool frame.

Cuttings should be made of matured shoots or side
growths in autumn ; insert thinly in well-drained pots of
peaty soil, and cover with a bell-glass. If kept in a cool
House in winter they will callus, and, early in spring, may
be introduced to gentle heat, to encourage growth ancl

224 THE NURSERY LIST.

the emission of roots. Pot the young plants singly, and
grow on in a close but not high temperature, and after-
wards harden and keep rather cool during the following
autumn and winter, in order to thoroughly ripen the
wood. Grafted specimens may be treated in a similar
way. D. odora is propagated by ripened cuttings in a
cool house, in sand. Sometimes the old wood can be
used. The time is determined by the fitness of the wood.

Darlingtonia. Sarraceniacece.

Increased by seeds, and by dividing the plants. Seeds
may be sown on the surface of well-prepared fibrous soil,
and then covered with dead sphagnum moss, rubbed
through a sieve. Give shade.

Dasylirion. Liliacecz.

Increased by seeds, suckers and cuttings.

Date, Date Palm (Phoenix dactylifera}. Palmacecz.

The seeds from commercial dates grow readily, and
without the intervention of stratification. Special varie-
ties are propagated by a sort of cutting, made by remov-
ing and rooting the sprouts which appear about the base
of the tree. These root readily if taken off green and
liberally supplied with water. They often begin to bear
in five or six years. The species grown for ornament are
generally increased by suckers.

Datisca. Datiscacece.

May be increased by seeds, and by dividing well estab-
lished plants.

Datura, including Brugmansia and Stramonium. Solanacecs.

The annual species are propagated by seeds, which are

started under cover in the north. The perennials are

readily grown from cuttings in mild heat. Heeled shoot?

are usually preferred.

Davallia. Filices,

Propagated largely by division. See Ferns.

Day Lily. See Hemerocallis and Funkia.

Decumaria. Saxifragacece.

Seeds. Cuttings may be made in summer, and placed
under a frame in a shady situation.

DELPHINIUM — DEWBERRY. 225

Delphinium (Larkspur). Ranunculacece.

Seeds may be sown outdoors in a warm border in
spring, or in pans, to be placed either in frames or outside.
The old plants of perennial sorts may be cut down after
flowering, when young growths will spring from the
base, and the whole may be lifted and carefully divided.
Cuttings of the young shoots, taken in autumn or spring,
will root freely if potted singly and placed in a coldframe.
They will flower the following season at the same time
as the divisions.

Dendrobium. Orchidacece .

Where a rapid increase of a new or special variety is
required, the pseudo-bulbs that are more than one year
old should be cut into lengths, and fastened on orchid
rafts, with a layer of sphagnum beneath them. Suspend
them in a hot, moist house, if possible, over a water-
tank. The advantage of this method is that the young
plants do not need shifting after they commence rooting
on their own account. The section to which D. aggre-
gatum^ D. Jenkinsii, D. densiflorum and D. thrysiflorum
belong are best propagated by division. (See under
Orchids. )

Dent aria (Tooth wort). Crucifercz.
Propagated by seeds or divisions.

Deodar. See Cedrus.

Deutzia. Saxifragacetz.

Commercially, the species are mostly propagated by
green hardened cuttings in summer, under a frame.
Hard-wooded cuttings may be taken in autumn, and be
treated in about the same manner as currant cuttings (see
pages 67, 68). The deutzias are also propagated by divi-
sions and layers. Some of the dwarf sorts are sometimes
forced, to make cuttings for winter use.

Dewberry (Rubus Canadensis and vars., Rubus vitifolius

and Rubus trivialis}. Rosacece.

Seeds are handled in the same manner as blackberry
seeds. Increased by layers and, like the blackberry, by
root cuttings. Layers are made by simply covering the
decumbent canes at the joints. This is the usual method
of multiplication. The tips, too, root freely, as in the black-
cap raspberries, and it is from these that the commer-
cial dewberry plants are mostly grown. See Blackberry.

226 THE NURSERY LIST.

Dianthera. As for Justicia.

Dianthus. See Carnation, Pink and Sweet William.

Dicentra, Dielytra (Bleeding Heart). Fumariace<z.

The crowns may be divided in early spring, or cuttings
may be made of the fleshy roots in short lengths, and
placed in sand. The roots should be placed in a compost
of sandy loam, in well-drained pots, as soon as the foliage
dies off, and transferred to a coldframe. The native spe-
cies propagate readily by the underground parts — D. Cu-
cullaria by division of the bulbs, and D. Canadensis by
the little tubers. All species grow from seeds which have
been stratified.

Dichorisandra. Commelinacece.

Propagated by seeds, divisions and cuttings.
Dicksonia. Filices.

Division mostly. See Ferns.
Dictamnus (Dittany, or Fraxinella). Rutacece.

Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe. Division.
Dictyosperma. See Areca.
Didymocarpus. Gesneracece.

Cuttings, which are obtained from young shoots when
commencing growth, and placed in sandy soil, in heat.
Also by seeds.

Dielytra. See Dicentra.

Diervilla, Weigela. Caprifoliace<z.

Suckers. Cuttings may be made in spring, summer or
autumn. Hardened green cuttings, handled under a
frame in summer, are extensively used by nurserymen.
(See pages 67, 68. ) They are sometimes grown from cut-
tings in winter from forced plants. Hard-wood cuttings,
made in winter and planted in spring, like the grape, suc-
ceed well.

Dieffenbachia. As for Caladium.
Digitalis (Foxglove). Scrophulariacece :

Seeds, sown in spring, either indoors or in the open.
The common foxglove (D. purpurea} often self-sows.

Dill {Anethum graveolens}. Umbelliferce.
Seeds, in early spring.

DILLENIA DISPORUM. 227

Dillenia. Dilleniacea.

Seeds, which, however, are grown with much difficulty.
Cuttings of half-ripened wood may be placed in sand,
under a frame, in bottom heat.

Dimorphanthus. See Aralia.

Dion, Platyzamia. Cycadacece.

Propagated by seed. See Cycas.

Dionasa. Droseracecz.

Propagated sometimes by seed; usually by dividing
the plants.

Dioscorea (Yam). Dioscoreacece.

The tubers may be divided in autumn or spring, when
not growing. Start in heat. Seeds are sometimes used ;
so are the tubers which form in the axils by the leaves.
Stove species can be propagated by cuttings of the half-
ripened wood.

Diospyros (Date Plum, Persimmon). Ebenacecz.

Seeds are used for the hardy species. Also by cuttings
of half-ripened shoots. Those requiring stove heat strike
best from ripened shoots, placed in sand in a brisk bot-
tom heat during spring. See also Persimmon.

Dipladenia. Apocynacece.

In spring, when the plants commence new growth, cut-
tings from the young shoots are made. These, or single
eyes, should be placed in a mixture of sand and peat in
good bottom heat.

Diplothemium. Palmacece.

Propagation is effected by seeds.

Dirca. Thymelceacece.

Increased by seeds or layers.

Disa. Orchidacecz.

D. grandiflora and others of similar habit are propa-
gated by offsets. These are best taken off about Decem-
ber, and treated like the old plants. (See under Orchids.)

Disporum, including Prosartes. Liliacece.

Seeds may be used ; or the plant may be divided in
spring before 'active growth commences.

228 THE NURSERY LIST.

Dodecatheon (American Cowslip). Primulacece,

Seeds. The crowns may be divided either in spring or
autumn. Cuttings of the whole root can be effectively
used, the root being torn off the crown, planted upright,
and covered with the sandy soil commonly used in this
form of propagation.

Dog's Bane. See Apocynum.
Dog's-tooth Violet. See Erythronium.
Dogwood. See Cornus.

Dolichos. Leguminosce.

By seeds. Sometimes cuttage or layerage is resorted to.

Doronicum (Leopard's Bane). Composite.
Propagated by seeds and divisions.

Dorstenia. Urticacetz.

Seeds may be sown in a hotbed in early spring. Be-
fore active growth commences, the plants may be divided.

Doryanthes. Amaryllidacece.

Propagated by suckers placed in small pots.

Downingia, Clintonia. Lobeliacece.

Seeds should be sown in mild heat in spring.

Draba (Whitlow Grass). Crucifercs.

The annuals or biennials are propagated by seeds sown
in spring in the open border. The perennials may be
propagated by dividing the crowns.

Dracaena. See Cordyline.

Dracocephalum (Dragon's Head). Labiates.

The annuals are grown from seeds, sown in the open
in spring. Perennials are increased by dividing the roots,
or by cuttings of the young shoots in spring.

Dracontium. See Amorphophallus.
Dragon-tree. See Cordyline

Drimys, Wintera. Magnoliacece.

Cuttings made of half-ripened shoots should be inserted
in a frame. Seeds, when obtainable.

DROSERA EL^AGNUS. 22Q

Droaera (Sundew). Droseracecs.

Seeds, sown as soon as possible after gathering. D.
binata is increased by cutting roots from strong plants
into pieces of one-half or one inch in length, and placing
them on the surface of shallow earthenware pans, in
sandy peat soil, and covering about one-half inch deep
with the same material. They are then placed under a
bell-glass, and transferred to a damp, warm propagating
house. This will suggest treatment for other species.

Drosophyllum. Droseracecz.

Propagated by seed.
Dutchman's Pipe. See Aristolochia.
Eccremocarpus (Calampelis). Bignoniacea.

Seeds, sown in spring, in a gentle heat. Cuttings may
be used of green or ripe wood.

Echeveria. See Cotyledon.
Echinacea. Composites.

Readily propagated by seeds and division.
Echinocactus. See Cactus.
Echinops (Globe Thistle). Composite.

Sow the seeds in spring for the propagation of the bi-
ennials, and divide the perennials early. Also by root
cuttings.

Edelweiss. See Leontopodium.

Egg-Plant (Solanum Melongend]. Solanacece.

Seeds in heat, in late winter or spring. Cuttings rarely.

Eglantine. See Rosa.

Eichhornia (Pontederia azurea of florists). Pontederiacea;.
Propagation is effected by division in spring ; seeds.

Elaeagnus (Oleaster, Wild Olive, Goumi). Elceagnacece.

Increased by seeds, layers or cuttings. Hard-wood cut-
tings of E. hortensis strike readily. The named varieties
are often grafted on the most vigorous varieties obtain-
able. Imported seeds of some species are apt to be
empty. E. longipes can readily be propagated by cut-
tings of the half-ripened wood in June and July, under
glass,
p

230 THE NURSERY LIST.

Elder. See Sambucus.

Elecampane (Inula Helenium}. Composite?.

Propagated by seeds in open air in early spring ; but
generally by division of the stools.

Elm. See Ulmus.

Empetrum (Crowberry, or Crakeberry). Empetracece.

Seeds. In summer, cuttings may be made, and should
be placed in sandy soil under glass.

Encephalartos. Cycadacece.

Increased by seeds. See Cycas.

Endive ( Cichorium Endivia). Composites.

Seeds, either in the open where the plants are to stand,
or under glass.

Eomecon. Papaveracece.
Seeds ; also by division.

Epacris. Epacridacece.

Grown from tip cuttings in a frame in winter, with
bottom heat. The cuttings root very slowly.

Ephedra. Gnetacece.

Layers may be made from young shoots or branches.

Epidendrum. Orchidacecz.

The tall-stemmed section of this genus is increased by
cuttings, the section with short, thick pseudo-bulbs by
division. The former also occasionally produces vivip-
arous flower-scapes, thus affording a ready means of in-
crease. (See under Orchids.)

Epigaea (Trailing Arbutus). Ericacecs.

Increased with great difficulty by careful divisions of
established plants, and by layers. Seeds, when obtain-
able, can be used, but are slow to develop. Cuttings are
most successful. Use last year's wood in house in win-
ter, putting them in sand. Pot them up as soon as estab-
lished, and keep them in pots until they are set into per-
manent quarters.

Epimedium (Barren wort). Berberidacece.

Sometimes increased by seeds. During July or August,
divisions of the roots can be made.

EPIPHYLLUM ERIOSTEMON. 23!

Epiphyllum. Cactacea.

Readily grown from cuttings. Pieces of the branches 4
to 6 inches long are placed in sandy soil in gentle heat,
and kept moderately dry. Epiphyllums are often grafted
on strong stocks of pereskia {Pereskia aculeata is com-
monly used, but P. Bleo is equally as good), for the pur-
pose of getting high or rafter plants. A young shoot is
cleft- or side-grafted into any portion of the pereskia
which has become hard, and the cion is held in place by
a cactus spine passed through it. Several cions may be
inserted along the sides of the stock. See Cactus.

Kranthemum. Acanthacece.

Seeds. Cuttings root readily in spring in peaty soil, in
a close frame where there is a bottom heat of about 70°.

Branthis (Winter Aconite). Ranunculacea :
Increased by seeds and divisions.

Eremurus. Liliacea.

Increased by seeds and divisions.

Erica (Heath). Ericacece.

Will grow from seeds, but these are used generally to
secure new varieties. If seeds are employed, sow on
peat or live sphagnum, and exercise great care not to let
them dry out. Commonly propagated by very short cut-
tings, taken from the tips, or made of the lower young
growth. Carefully remove the leaves from the lower
parts of the cutting, which should be about one inch long,
and then insert rather closely in pots, which should be
filled two-thirds with crocks, the remainder being fine
sandy peat with a layer of clean, compact sand on the sur-
face. Cover with glass. Water well, and place in a tem-
perature of about 60°.

Erinus. Scrophulariacea.

Seeds and divisions. After becoming established, they
propagate themselves by seeds.

Briobotrya. See Photinia.

Eriodendron. Malvacea.

Raised from seeds sown in sandy soil, in heat.
Eriostemon. Rutacecz.

Cuttings, in sandy peat in spring, under glass, and with
gentle heat. Nurserymen propagate by grafting on small
stocks of correa.

232 THE NURSERY LIST.

Erodium (Heron's Bill). Geraniacea:,

By seeds or division.
Eryngium ( Eryngo ) . Umbelliferce.

Seeds or carefully made divisions may be used for in-
creasing the species.

Erysimum (Hedge Mustard). Cruciferce.

Increased by seeds ; the perennials by seeds and
divisions.

Erythraea (Centaury). Gentianacea.
Propagated by seeds or division.
Erythrina (Coral-tree). Leguminoscs.

Seeds. Cuttings of young shoots can be taken in
spring or early summer with a heel, and placed in sandy
soil, on a slight bottom heat.

Erythronium (Dog's-tooth Violet). Liliacea.

Seeds. Offsets or bulbels are usually employed, taken
as soon as the leaves dry away after flowering, inserting
the bulbels about three inches deep.

Erythroxylon. Linacece.

Place cuttings of half-ripened shoots in sand under a
glass, in heat. Seeds, if obtainable.

Eschscholtzia (California Poppy). Papaveracece.

Seeds may be sown in spring or autumn where the
plants are to flower.

Eucalyptus (Gum-tree). Myrtacece.

Increased by seeds, . which, for culture under glass,
should be sown thinly in pans or pots of light, sandy
soil, and placed in frames. Also by cuttings.

Eucharis. Amaryllidacece.

Seeds may be sown as soon as ripe in a warm house.
Offsets or bulbels should be removed and potted off
singly.

Eucomis. Liliacece.

Increased by seeds, sown as soon as ripe, or by bulbels.
Eugenia. See Myrtus.
Eulalia. See Miscanthus,

EUONYMUS — FAGUS. 233

Euonymus (Burning-bush, Strawberry-tree, Wahoo). Celas-

tracecs.

Grown from seeds, cuttings and layers. Cuttings usu-
ally make better plants than layers. The deciduous spe-
cies are usually grown from hard-wood cuttings, but the
evergreen kinds are started under glass, from cuttings of
the growing or ripened wood. The small and weak
kinds are grafted on the stronger ones. The evergreen
species will grow upon the deciduous kinds.

Eupatorium ( Boneset ) . Composites.

Cuttings of the growing wood, under glass in early
spring, is the common method of propagation of the con-
servatory species. Seeds can also be used for some
species

Euphorbia, including Poinsettia (Spurge). Euphorbiacece.

By seeds, especially the annual species. The perennial

shrubby sorts are increased by cuttings in a strong heat.

Some species are propagated by divisions. See Poinsettia.

Eurycles. Amaryllidacece.

Offsets or bulbels, in spring.

Euterpe. Palmacecz.
Seeds in heat.

Eutoca. See Phacelia.

Evening Primrose. See CEnothera.

Exochorda. Rosacecz.

Grown from seeds, layers, cuttings and suckers. Lay-
ering in June is a common practice. Various kinds of
cuttings are employed, but the best results follow short,
soft cuttings, taken from forced plants and set deep in
shallow flats of sand. They require a very strong bottom
heat, a close frame, and the water should be applied in a
spray upon the foliage. Cuttings are sometimes grafted
upon pieces of roots. It has been regarded as a difficult
plant to propagate, but seeds are now easily procured
from cultivated plants, and they grow readily

Fagus (Beech). Cupulifer<z.

Commonly grown from the nuts, which should be strat-
ified and sown very early in spring. They may be sown
immediately after they are gathered, if they can be pro-
tected from vermin. The named varieties are grafted

234 THE NURSERY LIST.

upon the European or American species. (See Fig. 115
for a good method. ) The purple-leaved beech repro-
duces itself very closely by seeds, although different shades
of purple will appear amongst the seedlings.

Farfugium. See Senecio.

Felicia. Composites.

Propagated by seeds, or by cuttings inserted in sandy
soil, under glass.

Fennel (Ff^niculum^ various species). Umbelliferce.

Seeds, usually in spring.
Fennel Flower. See Nigella.

Fenugreek ( Trigonella Foenum-Graewri}. Leguminosfz.
Propagated by seeds.

Ferns. Filices.

Where division is possible, it is the easiest and most
economical method of propagation, and should be prac-
ticed just before the plant starts into growth. The spores
can be sown in February and March, or earlier, under
glass, in a warm propagating pit. Partly fill a suitable
sized pot or pan with coarse peat, giving plenty of drain-
age ; make the surface level, and on this place three-
quarter inch cubes of well-seasoned peat which is rather
dry, watering the whole and scattering on the spores
evenly. Cover with a pane of glass, and place in a partial
shade. While the process which corresponds to germina-
tion is going on, great care must be given to the water
supply. This is sometimes done by placing the pots or
pans in a saucer, from which they can suck the water up.
Overhead watering may be used, and often is, but it must
be done with great care. Be certain that the spores are
fully ripe when gathered.

The young plants should be pricked out when the true
leaf appears, and they are large enough to handle. The
same careful treatment should be continued until they are
established in pots.

There is not much difficulty in getting the young plants,
if fresh spores are obtainable, but there is a good deal of
trouble in handling the plantlets, and establishing them
in their growing quarters.

Most ferns are readily propagated by means of spores,
as directed above and on page 24. Some species rarely

FERNS — FICUS. 235

produce spores in cultivation, however, and in other cases,
as in some tree ferns, it is almost impossible to rear the
young plants after the spores have germinated. In all
such cases, recourse must be had to separation, division or
layerage. There are some species, as Asplenium bulbif-
erum, Cystopteris bulbifera and others, which bear small
bulblets or detachable buds on their fronds. These buds
often vegetate while still attached to the frond. They
may be removed either before or after showing signs of
vegetation, and set in pots in a close propagating frame,
or under a bell-glass. Ferns which make broad crowns
may be divided, and this is the common mode with many
species. Some species produce creeping roptstocks,
which emit roots if pegged down into a pot of soil or on a
block of peat. Several plants can often be produced from
such a layer. All these operations are best performed in
late winter, before the new growth begins. The tree ferns
are rarely propagated to any extent in cultivation, but
young plants are imported from their native countries.

Fern, Sweet. See Comptonia.

Ferraria, Tigridia. Iridacea.

Propagated by means of seeds and bulbels.

Feverfew. See Chrysanthemum.

Ficus. Urticacece.

The greenhouse species are propagated by layers and
cuttings. The cuttings are handled in a close frame, and
a leaf or two is usually left on them. For Ficus Carica^
see Fig. Propagation by seeds is sometimes used in the
edible figs, but is not easy with the ornamental sorts.
F. elastica, F. Indica, etc., are increased by cuttings (com-
monly single-eye), planted in sand or sandy soil or sphag-
num, and placed in good bottom heat, in a frame under
glass. The large cuttings should be staked, and care
must be taken to remove the milky juice before planting.
Any winter month is good, before growth begins. Last
season's wood should be used. A common method of
multiplying F. elastica (Rubber-plant) is by means of Chi-
nese or air layers (see page 41). If the house can be kept
moist, simply a ball of sphagnum bound on the stem is
sufficient, without the use of a split pot or a paper cone (as
shown in Figs. 33 and 35). Plants of considerable size, fit
for nursery trade, can be obtained quicker by this Chinese
layering (if one has good stock plants) than by cuttings.

236 THE NURSERY LIST.

Fig (Ficus Carica}. Urticacecz.

Figs grow readily from the plump seeds in the commer-
cial fruit. Wash out the seeds, and those that sink mav
be sown in a frame. The young plants will appear in
three or four weeks. In from three to five years the
plants will begin to bear. New varieties are obtained in
this way.

Varieties of the fig are multiplied with ease by layers,
suckers and cuttings. Make cuttings of mature wood in
autumn, cutting just below a bud. Scarce varieties may
be multiplied by single-eye cuttings. Fig cuttings are
handled in the same way as grape cuttings. Some prefer,
however, to place the cuttings where the tree is to stand.
A well-grown plant will bear at two or three years of age.

The fig is readily budded and grafted, but these meth-
ods are seldom employed, because the plant is so easily
multiplied by cuttings. Shield, ring or tubular buddings
are employed. Various methods of grafting are adapted
to it, and cleft-grafting is usually employed on old plants.

Filbert. See Corylus.

Fir. See Abies, Picea and Pinus.

Fire-pink. See Silene.

Fittonia. Acanthacece.

Increased by division, and by cuttings of half ripened
shoots, planted in sandy loam, in bottom heat.

Fitzroya. Coniferce.

Seeds. Increased also by cuttings of half-ripened
shoots.

Flax. See Linum.

Flower-de-Luce (Fleur-de-Lis). See Iris.

Fontanesia. Oleacecs.

Layers are used ; also cuttings, planted under a hand-
glass in autumn. Or it may be grafted on the privet.

Forget-me-not. See Myosotis.

Forsythia (Golden Bell). Oleacecz.

Propagated extensively by green cuttings in summer, in
a frame ; also grown from ripe cuttings taken in fall and
winter, and planted in the open air in early spring.

FOTHERGILLA — FUCHSIA. 237

Fothergilla. Hamamelidetz.

Propagated by seeds, sown in spring in a peaty soil ; by-
layers.

Four-O'clock. See Mirabilis.
Foxglove. See Digitalis.
Fragaria. See Strawberry.
Franciscea. See Brunfelsia.
Francoa. Saxifragacece.

Seeds, sown in early spring in a cool frame. Also by
division.

Frangula. See Rhamnus.

Fraxinella. See Dictamnus.

Fraxinus (Ash). Oleacecs.

Propagated chiefly by seeds, which should be stratified
until fall or the spring following the gathering. The seeds
do not germinate the year in which they mature. The
named sorts are budded upon seedling stocks if the sorts
are upright growers, or top-grafted if they are weepers.
Both the European and American species are used for
stocks.

Frecsia. Iridacece.

Increased readily by seeds, sown as soon as ripe in pots
of light, sandy soil, and placed in a sunny position, in a
cool frame. Commonly by bulbels.

Freycinetia. Pandanacece.

Increased by offsets. Seeds, when obtainable.
Fringe-tree. See Chionanthus.

Fritillaria. Liliacecp.

Seeds, sown as soon as ripe where the plants are to
stand the- first year. Bulbels and division.

Fuchsia (Ladies' Ear Drop). Onagracetz.

Fuchsias grow readily from seeds, which should be
sown as soon as ripe, and blooming plants ought to be
obtained in eight or ten months. Cuttings of the young
growth strike quickly and easily. Blooming plants of
most sorts can be obtained in four or five months.
Plants for winter bloom are usually started in late spring.

238 THE NURSERY LIST.

Funkia (Plantain Lily, White D^-v Lily). Liliacea?.

Propagation is effected b> Jividing the stools during
the early autumn, or when they begin to start in spring.
Only strong, healthy clumps should be divided, and each
portion should contain several crowns.

Furze. See Ulex.
Gaillardia. Composite.

The annual sorts are propagated by seeds started under

glass; the perennial kinds by seeds, cuttings or division.

Sometimes root cuttings are used.

Galanthus (Snowdrop). Amaryllidacece.

Commonly by bulbels. Rarely by seeds.
Galax. Diapensiacece .

Propagated by divisions of strong clumps in autumn.
Galcga (Goat's Rue). Leguminostz.

Seeds, in spring ; also by division.
Galtonia (Hyacinthus candicans of gardeners). Liliacetz.

Increased by bulbels or seeds.
Garcinia, Cambogia, Mangostana. Guttiferce.

Seeds. Cuttings of ripened shoots should be inserted
in sand under a glass, in strong bottom heat.

Gardenia. Rubiacecz.

Strong, healthy cuttings may be taken with a heel, early
in the year being the best time, but any season will do
when suitable cuttings can be secured. They should be
placed in bottom heat of about 75°, in a frame.

Garlic (Allium sativum}. Liliacece.

By "cloves" or divisions of the bulb. In the north
these are planted in the spring, but in warm climates
they may be planted in the fall.

Garrya, including Fadyenia. Cornacece.

Propagated by seeds, or by cuttings of half-ripened
wood in sandy loam in August, and shaded until rooted.
Also by budding on Aucuba Japonica at the crown.
Plant sufficiently deep to cover the bud or graft.

Gaultheria (Boxberry, Wintergreen). Ericaceee.

Increased by seeds, divisions, layers and cuttings under
glass.

GAYLUSSACIA GILIA. 239

Gaylussacia. See Vaccinium and Whortleberry.

Gazania. Composites.

Increased by seeds, and by divisions. Make cuttings
in July or August, from the side shoots near the base of
the plant ; these should be placed in a sandy soil, in a
frame.

Gelsemium. Loganiacetz.

Propagated by cuttings under glass.

Genista. See Cytisus.

Gentiana (Gentian). Gentianacetz.

Seeds and division. The seeds germinate slowly, and
often with difficulty. They often lie dormant a year or
more. They should be sown in well-sifted light loam,
in pans or flats, and kept cool and shaded. Division
must be carefully done, or the plants will suffer.

Geonoma. Palmacece.

Increased by seeds and suckers.

Geranium. Geraniacece.

Mostly by seeds and divisions. For the conservatory
plants known as geraniums, see Pelargonium

Gerardia. Scrophulariacetz.

Propagated, but often with difficulty, by seeds, sown in
the open air or in a frame or cool house. Many of the
species are partially parasitic on roots.

German Ivy. See Senecio.

Gesnera. Gesneracecz .

Seeds, and cuttings of the shoots and leaves. Handled
in essentially the same manner as Sinningia, which see.

Gethyllis. Amaryllidacetz.

They may be increased by bulbels or seeds.

Gherkin ( Cucumis Anguria\ Cucurbitacea.

Propagation is effected by seeds. See Cucumber.

Gilia, including Fenzlia. Polemoniacecs .

Seeds should be sown in spring in the open ground or
frame, in a rather light soil.

24O THE NURSERY LIST.

Gillenia. Rosace<z.

Increased readily by dividing the roots in spring ; also
by seeds.

Gilliflower. See Matthiola.

Ginger. See Zingiber.

Ginkgo, Salisburia (Maidenhair- tree). Conifertz.

Seeds, which are mostly imported, and which should
be stratified. Seeds are now produced in some quantity
in this country. Also by layers, and by cuttings of either
green or ripe wood. The cuttings are handled under
glass. Named varieties are grafted upon common stocks.

Ginseng (Aralia, or Panax}. Araliacecz.

Cuttings of stems and roots. Stems of old plants may
be cut into pieces an inch or two long and inserted in
sand in heat. Or young plants can be obtained by cut-
ting down the tops of strong plants and then separating
the suckers which arise.

Gladiolus. Iridacecs.

Seeds, which are commonly sown in pans in spring, in
the house ; or they may be sown in the border. Seed-
lings flower in two or three years. They give new
varieties. The common method of propagation is by
means of cormels (see page 31, and Fig. 25). These are
removed from the parent corm and planted in the open,
where some of them will flower the same season, al-
though most of them will require a season's independent
growth before they flower. If cormels are desired in
abundance, the large corms should not be allowed to
flower. Some varieties do not produce cormels readily,
and these may be made to bear them by cutting or ring-
• ing (page 31) One or more new corms are formed
above the old one each year ( Fig. 25).

Gleditschia ( Honey Locust ) . Leguminoscz.

Seeds should be sown in spring about one inch deep.
They should be soaked in hot water before being sown.
Varieties propagated by grafts upon seedling stock.

Gleichenia. See Ferns.
Globe Flower. See Trollius.
Gloriosa. Liliacece.

Seeds should be inserted singly in small pots, in a

GLOXINIA GOOSEBERRY. 24!

light, sandy soil, and plunged in bottom heat. Bulbels,
which should be carefully removed from the old bulbs
when starting them in spring, as the roots are very brittle.

Gloxinia. See Sinningia.
Glycosmis. Rutacecs.

Seeds. Increased by cuttings, which are commonly
inserted in sand under glass, often in heat.

Glycyrrhiza ( Liquorice ) . Leguminosce.

Propagated by division and by seeds.
Godetia. See CEnothera.
Golden Rod. See Solidago.
Gomphocarpus. Asclepiadacece.

Seeds should be sown under glass in spring ; or cut-
tings may be made of small side shoots when the plant
is commencing new growth, and placed in sand under
glass.

Gomphrena. See Celosia.

Gonolobus. Asclepiadacea.

Seeds, divisions, and cuttings under glass.

Goober. See Arachis.

Gooseberry (Ribes Grossularia and R. oxyacanthoides}.

Saxifragacecz.

Seeds, for the raising of new varieties, should be sown
as soon as well cured, in loamy or sandy soil, or they
may be stratified and sown together with the sand in the
spring. Cuttings 6 to 8 inches long of the mature wood,
inserted two-thirds their length, usually grow readily,
especially if taken in August or September and stored
during winter, in the same way as currant cuttings ( Fig.
65). Single eye cuttings may be used for rare kinds.
Stronger plants are usually obtained by layers, and the
English varieties are nearly always layered in this coun-
try (although frequently grown from cuttings in England).
Mound-layering is usually employed (the mounding being
done in June, or when the new growth has reached sev^
era! inches), the English varieties being allowed to re^
main on the stools two years, but the American varieties
only one (Fig. 32). Much depends upon the variety.
The Downing, for example, usually makes a merchant-

242 THE NURSERY LIST.

able plant in one year after transplanting from the stools,
but Smith Improved may require a year more. Layered
plants are usually set in nursery rows for a year after
removal from the stools. Green-layering during summer
is sometimes practiced for new or rare varieties. Strong
plants may also be procured by tip-layering, as in the
black raspberry (see page 36). If it is desired to train
the weaker gooseberries in tree form, they may be grafted
upon the stronger-growing varieties.

Gordonia. Ternstrcemiacece.

Propagated by seeds or layers.

Gorse. See Ulex.

Goumi. See Elaeagnus.

Gourds ( Cucurbita Pepo, Lagenaria, etc. ). Cucurbitacecs.
Seeds, after the weather is settled and ground is warm.

Granadilla ( Passiflora edulis, etc. ) Passifloracece.
Propagated by seeds, or, less easily, by cuttings.

Grape ( Vitis, several species). Vitacecz.

Grape seedlings are very easily grown. If the ground
is fit and there is no danger from vermin, the seeds may
be sown in the fall, but they are usually stratified and
sown in spring. They come readily if sown outdoors, but
some prefer to force them under glass with a mild bottom
heat. Seedlings do not "come true," and they are there-
fore grown only for the purpose of obtaining new sorts.

The grape is very readily multiplied by layers, either of
the ripe or green wood. The ripe wood or canes may be
layered either in fall or spring, but spring is usually
chosen. The cane is simply covered up 2 or 3 inches
deep, and nearly every bud will produce a plant. In
August or September the layer should be lifted and cut up
into plants. Better plants are obtained if only the strong-
est canes are used and only a part of the buds on each are
allowed to grow. The cane is usually cut back to four or
five buds, or if very strong plants are desired only one bud
is left on each layer. Canes of the previous year, those
recently matured, are preferred, although wood two or
three years old may be used, but in this case it is usually
necessary to cut or otherwise wound the joint in order to
induce the formation of roots. Vines or stools grown for
the production of layers should be cut back severely in
fall or winter, to induce a vigorous growth of canes the

GRAPE. 243

Grape, continued

following season. These canes are then layered the suc-
ceeding fall or spring. Only a part of the canes are lay-
ered from any stool, a part being allowed to grow for
cutting back the next fall in order to get another crop of
canes. In some varieties which do not strike readily from
cuttings, layering is considerably practiced by nursery-
men. The Delaware is often grown in this way. Extra
strong layers can be secured by layering in pots. A large
pot, filled with rich soil, is plunged beneath the layer. In
this manner a layer may be rooted and separated even
while carrying fruit. Layering in pots is employed only in
special cases. In vineyards, layering is often employed
for the purpose of filling vacancies. A strong cane is left,
without pruning, on a neighboring vine in the same row,
and in the spring the end of it is laid down in the vacant
place. The vine is covered about a half foot deep, and
the free end of it is turned up perpendicularly out of the
soil and tied to a stake. By fall or the following spring
the layer should be sufficiently rooted to allow the parent
cane to be cut away.

Green-layering is sometimes practiced upon new and
scarce varieties, but strong plants are not obtained unless
they are well handled by forceful culture after they are
separated. The growing cane is layered in midsummer,
usually by serpentine layering.

Cuttings are usually employed by nurserymen to propa-
gate the grape. These are made in many fashions. In
all ordinary cases hard-wood cuttings are made from the
ripened canes in autumn or winter when the vines are
pruned. It is advisable to take the cuttings before the
canes have been exposed to great cold. Select only those
canes which are well matured, solid and rather short-
jointed. In common practice, the cuttings are cut into
two-bud lengths, the lower cut being made close to the
bud. The cuttings will range from 6 to 10 inches in
length. Some prefer three-bud cuttings (Fig. 59), but
unless the cane is very short-jointed, such cuttings are too
long to be planted and handled economically. Three-
bud cuttings usually give stronger plants the first season,
because roots start from both joints as a rule. Very
strong plants are obtained from mallet cuttings (Fig. 61),
but as only one such cutting can be made from a cane,
unless the cane bears very strong branches, they are not
much used. Various methods of peeling, slitting and
slicing cuttings are recommended, in order to extend the

244 THE NURSERY LIST.

Grape, continued.

callusing process, but they are not used in common or
commercial practice. The cuttings are tied in bundles of
50 or 10 , and stored in sand, moss, or sawdust in a cellar,
until spring, when they are planted in rows in the open.
Some varieties, of which the Delaware is an example, do
not strike readily from cuttings. Some growers start
common cuttings of these under glass in spring. Others
bury the bundles of cuttings in a warm exposure in the
fall, with the butt ends up and about level with the surface
of the ground. This affords bottom heat to the butts and
induces callusing. (See page 57. ) At the approach of cold
weather the cuttings are removed to a cellar, or are heavily
mulched and allowed to remain where buried. Storing is
safer. Some growers obtain the same results by burying
upside down in a cellar. These slow-rooting sorts often
start well if they are simply kept in a warm cellar — but
where the buds will not swell— all winter, as the callusing
is then hastened. At the end of the first season the plants
may be transplanted. The plants are often sold at this
age, but buyers usually prefer two-year-old plants.

Single bud or "eye" cuttings are largely used for the
newer and rarer varieties. These are cut from the canes
in the fall, the same as long cuttings, and are stored in
boxes of sand or moss. A month before the weather
becomes settled, these boxes may be taken into a house
or greenhouse, or put in a mild hotbed, to induce the for-
mation of the callus. They may then be planted out-
doors, and a fair proportion of most varieties may be
expected to grow. The best and commonest way of han-
dling eyes, however, is to start them under glass. They
are planted horizontally, or nearly so, and about an inch
deep in sand or sandy earth, in a cool greenhouse in late
winter— in February in the northern states— and in about
six weeks the plants will be large enough to pot off or to
transplant into coldframes or a cool house. If only a few
plants are to be grown, they may be started in pots.
When the weather is thoroughly settled, they are trans-
ferred to nursery rows, and by fall they will make strong
plants. There are various ways recommended for the cut-
ting of these eyes — as cutting the ends obliquely up or
down, shaving off the bark below the^bud, and so on — but
the advantages of these fashions are imaginary. A good
eye-cutting is shown in Fig. 66. The foreign grapes are
propagated by eyes in the north.

Soft cuttings are sometimes used to multiply new kinds.

GRAPE. 245

Grape, continued.

These may be taken in summer from the growing canes,
but the plants are usually forced during winter for the pur-
pose of giving the extra wood. Cuttings are taken off as
fast as buds form during the winter, and they are forced in
close frames with a good bottom heat. The cuttings may
comprise two buds, with the leaf at the upper one allowed
to remain, or they may bear but a single eye, in which
case the leaf, or the most of it, is left on. This rapid
multiplication from small, soft wood usually gives poor
plants ; but strong plants may be obtained by allowing the
wood to become well hardened before it is used. Soft cut-
tings will root in two or three weeks under gbod treatment.

In order to secure extra strong plants from single buds,
the eyes may be saddle-grafted or whip-grafted upon a
root 2 or 3 inches long. The root grafts are then treated
in the same way as eye cuttings, only that they are usually
grown in pots from the start.

The vine may be grafted with ease by any method.
Cleft-grafting is commonly employed upon old plants.
The cions are inserted on the crown of the plant, three or
four inches below the surface of the ground. The cleft is
bound with string, and then covered with earth, no wax
being necessary. The best time to perform the operation
is very early in spring, before the sap starts. Vines may
be grafted late in spring also, after danger of bleeding is
past, if the cions are kept perfectly dormant. Vines are
sometimes grafted in the fall, but this practice cannot be
recommended in the north. Young plants are usually
whip-grafted at the crown, either indoors or outdoors.
Grafting the vine is mostly confined to Europe, Califor-
nia, and other countries where the European grape ( Vitis
vinifera] is grown, as that species must be grafted upon
some other stock in order to resist the phylloxera. The
common wild frost-grape ( Vitis riparia) is the most pop-
ular stock. The union in these cases must be two or
three inches above the ground, to prevent the cion from
taking root. The union is wound with waxed muslin,
and the earth is heaped about it until it has healed.
Grapes can be grafted by the cleft-graft below ground as
readily as pears or apples can be worked. For pictures
of various methods of grafting the grape, see Figs. 107,
113, 114, 116, 124, 125. The last (125) is the best type
for general use on old vines.

The vine is frequently inarched, and early in spring it
can be budded by ordinary methods.

246 THE NURSERY LIST.

Grape, continued.

Seed-grafting is a curious practice, which may be ap-
plied to the grape (see page 131).

There is so much misapprehension respecting the
methods and results of the grafting of grapes, that the
following directions by the veteran viticulturist, George
Husmann, now of Napa, California (as given in Ameri-
can Agriculturist, 1896), are here transcribed in full :

"A good, thin-bladed, sharp knife to cut the cions, a
sharp saw to cut off large stocks — the smaller ones can
be cut with good pruning shears— a chisel for grafting
having a blade 2>£ or 3 inches broad in the middle and a
wedge on each side [a knife with but a single wedge, as
in Figs. 1 20 and 121, will answer the same purpose], a
wooden mallet, and a few strings of raffia, or other ban-
dage, in case a stock should need tying, which is seldom
the case — are the implements necessary for grafting.
The cions should be of selected wood, the size of a lead-
pencil, or somewhat larger, cut some time in winter, tied
in bundles, and buried their entire length on the shady
side of a building, or under a tree, to keep them dormant.
Short-jointed, firm wood is to be preferred. All can be
carried in a basket, if one intends to perform the opera-
tion alone. If several are to^work together, of course the
tools must be divided accordingly. In California we work
generally in gangs of three, the first man clearing away
the ground from the stock until he comes to a smooth
plaqe for inserting the cion, whether this be at the surface
or slightly below. The former is preferable if resistant
vines are to be grafted with non-resistant cions. He then
cuts off the stock horizontally about an inch and a halt
above a knot or joint. The next man cuts the cions to a
smooth, long, sloping wedge just below a bud [as shown
in Fig. 119], then splits the stock, either with pruning
shears or chisel, according to its size. If the stock is not
more than an inch in diameter, the shears are best, as
only one cion is to be inserted. Keep^the blade of the
shears on the side where the cion is to join the stock, so
as to prevent bruising, and make a long, smooth, sloping
cut, a little transversely if possible, as the junction will
thereby become all the more perfect. Then push the
wedge of the cion firmly down into the cleft, taking care
that the inner bark or fiber of stock and cion are well
joined, as on this principally depends the success of the
operation. To open the cleft, the wedges on the chisel
are used if necessary. An expert will depend very little

y/M 'i

m .;;

GRAPE. /.' 247

Grape, continued.

on these, unless the stocks are very heavy, but will open
the cleft with knife or shears, and then push down the
cion to its proper place. The inner side of the cion, oppo-
site the bud, should be somewhat thinner, so that the
stock will close firmly on it ; the cion should also be in-
serted far enough so that the bud is just above the hori-
zontal cut on the stock. The third man follows, presses
a little moist earth on the surface of the stock, and then
hills up around the junction to the uppermost buds of the
cion with well-pulverized soil, taking care not to move
the cion, and the operation is finished. It becomes neces-
sary sometimes to tie the stock, when it is not large
enough or from some defect in grafting it does not firmly
hold the cion. In such a case, pass a string of raffia or
some other flat bandage firmly around the stock and tie
it, but in no case use grafting wax or clay, as the strong
flow of sap from all the pores is apt to drown and sour
the cion, while without obstructing it, it will flow around
the stock, serving to keep the junction moist and facilitate
the union. As the whole operation is covered with earth,
there is no danger of drying up, as is sometimes the case
when fruit trees are top-grafted.

"A very important consideration, to insure success, is
to equalize the stock and cion. If, therefore, large stocks
are to be grafted, we must have strong, well-developed
wood for the cions, and have buds enough to take up the
full flow of sap, while small stocks, if used at all, should
be grafted with small cions of only two or three buds.
When the stocks are strong, I take two cions and insert
one on each side of the stock, of full length, say from 14
to 16 inches, and with six to eight buds each. This has
many advantages. The principal one is that they will
elaborate and work up the entire flow of sap. Another
is, that if the cions have well-developed fruit buds, they
will produce quite a number of clusters from the upper
buds, and thus show the character of the fruit the first
year. I have picked a thousand pounds of grapes from
an acre thus grafted, the first summer, and a full crop of
five or six tons per acre the following season. Another
advantage is that it establishes the crown of the graft at
the right distance from the ground, as the three upper
buds will produce the canes for the next season's bearing.
If both cions grow, cut off the weakest above the junction
the next spring, leaving only the strongest. I generally
find that the whole surface of the stock is covered bv the

248 -1N THE NURSERY LIST.

Grape, concluded.

new growth, and that the junction between stock and
cion is perfect. Another advantage is — especially in Cali-
fornia, where we plow and cultivate close to the vines,
and where some of the workmen are careless —they are
more apt to run over and disturb the small grafts than
the. large ones, which are protected by hills of earth above
the surface ; nor are the young shoots disturbed and
broken so easily by careless hands or high winds. A
stake should be driven close to the graft immediately
after grafting is finished, and the young shoots, when they
appear, tied to it for support, as they generally start vig-
orously and are easily broken off, or blown off by high
winds. Do not be discouraged if some time elapses be-
fore they start. I have often had them remain dormant
until July or August, and then make a rapid growth. If
suckers from the stock appear — as is generally the case —
they should be removed at once, taking care to cut them
close to the stock, so as to have no stumps or dormant
buds. Tying and suckering should be repeated every
week or ten days at least. As long as the cion remains
fresh and green it may begin growing at any time. Of
course, care must be taken not to disturb the cion. If
everything does well, there will be three or four canes
from the upper buds, which may be pruned just as any
other bearing vines."

Grape Hyacinth. See Muscari.

Grevillea. Proteacece.

Propagated by seeds, sown under glass in late winter ;
also by cuttings of half-ripened wood.

Grewia. Tiliacea;.

Seeds. Cuttings may be struck in sand under glass,
with heat.

Grindelia. Composites.

Seeds, sown in the border or under a frame. Divisions.
Cuttings.

Ground-Cherry. See Physalis.

Ground-Nut. See Apios ; also Peanut (under Arachis).

Groundsel. See Senecio.

Guaiacum. Zygophyllacece.

Ripened cuttings in spring, under a nand-glass, in heat.

GUAVA H^MODORUM. 249

Guava (Psidium, several species). Myrtacecs.

The guavas grow readily from seeds, and plants will
often bloom when a year and a-half old. They may also
be multiplied by layers, and by cuttings either under glass
or in the open.

Guelder Rose. See Viburnum.
Guernsey Lily. See Nerine.
Gumbo. See Okra.
Gum, Sweet. See Liquidambar.
Gum-tree. See Eucalyptus.
Gunnera. Haloragece.

Propagated by division. It is very difficult to raise
from seed.

Gymnocladus (Kentucky Coffee-tree). Leguminosce.

Readily increased by seeds, which start better if soaked
fur a few hours in hot water. Also by root-cuttings.

Gymnogramme. See Ferns.
Gymnyostachys. Aroidece.

Propagation is effected by suckers and divisions.
Gynerium (Pampas Grass). Graminecz.

Seeds, under glass in the north. Also increased by
dividing the tufts.

Gynura. Composite \

Increased easily by cuttings and seeds.

Gypsophila. Caryophyllacece.

Propagated by seeds, division or cuttings.

Habrothamnus. See Cestrum.
Hackberry. See Celtis.

Haemanthus (Blood Flower). Amaryllidacetz.

Bulbels, which should be removed and potted when the
plants are commencing new growth, and be kept in a
close pit or house till established. Seeds are rarely used.

Haemodorum (Australian Blood root). H&modoracece.
Increased by dividing the roots in spring.

250 THE NURSERY LIST.

Hakea. Proteacece.

Well-ripened cuttings, placed in sandy peat under glass,
in a cool house. Seeds, when obtainable, can be used.

Halesia (Silver-bell, or Snowdrop Tree). Styracacece.

Seeds, which rarely germinate till the second year.
They should be stratified or kept constantly moist. 'Pro-
pagation is also effected by layers, or by cuttings of the
roots in spring and autumn. Layers are commonly em-
ployed in this country.

Halimodendron (Salt-tree). Leguminoste.

Freely increased by seeds, layers or cuttings. May also
be grafted on common laburnum.

Hamamelis (Witch-hazel). Hamamelidece.

All grow from seeds or layers, and the Japan species
succeed if grafted on American species in the greenhouse.
H. Virginica may be readily propagated by layers.

Hamelia. Rubiacecz.

Seeds. Cuttings which are nearly ripe will root during
the early part of summer under glass, with heat.

Hamiltonia. Rubiacea.

Seeds. Half-ripened cuttings, placed in sand under
glass.

Hardenbergia. Leguminostc.

Seeds may be used ; also increased by division. Cut-
tings, made of the firm young side shoots in spring, will
grow if inserted under a bell-glass, and placed in a warm
frame or pit, without bottom heat.

Harebell. See Campanula.
Harpalium. See Helianthus.
Haw, Hawthorn. See Crataegus.
Hazel. See Corylus.
Heartsease. See Viola.
Heath. See Erica.
Heather. See Calluna ; also Erica
Hedera(Ivy). Araliacetf.

Seeds. Layers. The rooted portions of the vine may
be severed and treated as independent plants. Cuttings

HEDYCHIUM HELIOTROPIUM. 251

may be made in autumn from any firm shoots, and in-
serted in pots or in the open ground. If they are placed
in heat and kept shaded until roots are formed, good
plants are obtained much sooner than when placed in a
coldframe or in the open air. Named varieties are
grafted on the stock of any common strong climbing form.

Hedychium (Indian Garland Flower). Scitaminecz.

Seeds, rarely. Increased by dividing the rhizomes in
spring, when the plants are repotted.

Hedysarum. Leguminosa .

Propagation is effected by means of seeds and division.
Helenium. Composites.

Increased by seeds or divisions.
Helianthemum (Rock-Rose, Sun-Rose). Cistacecz.

The annuals are raised from seeds. The perennials
may also be raised from seeds, but it is better to trust to
layers and to cuttings, which will root freely in a sandy
soil, if kept shaded until established.

Helianthus, including Harpalium (Sunflower). Composite?.
By seeds, which may be sown in pots, and the seedlings
transferred, or in the open ground in spring. Also divi-
sions. Of perennial sorts, use the underground shoots or
"creepers," treating as for cuttings.

Helichrysum, Elichrysum (Everlastings). Composites.

The annual species and the varieties of H. bracteatum
may be raised from seed, sown in a light heat in early
spring, and afterwards transplanted ; or sown in the open
ground a little later. The perennial species are increased
by cuttings in spring, in a close frame without heat.

Heliconia. Scitaminece.

iVfay be increased by seeds, but the best method is by
division of the rootstock in spring when growth com-
mences. Separate pieces may be placed in pots, and
grown in a moist stove temperature, repotting when neces-
sary ; or they may be planted out in the stove, if desired.

Heliotropium (Heliotrope). Borraginacece.

Seeds. The common practice is to use cuttings. These
can be taken at almost any season, if good growing shoots
are to be had. They start readily in sand or soil on a cut-
ting bench, or under a frame. Plants for bedding are

252 THE NURSERY LIST.

struck in late winter from stocks which are in a vigorous
condition.

Helipterum, including Rhodanthe. Composites.

Seeds may be sown in early spring, under cover.

Helleborus (Black Hellebore, Christmas Rose). Ranuncu-

lacecz.

Seeds may be sown as soon as ripe. Strong and
healthy root divisions are also employed. See, also,
Veratrum.

Helonias. Liliacece.

Propagation is effected by seeds, and slowly by root
divisions.

Hemerocallis (Day Lily). Liliace<z.

Increased by divisions. H. Middendorfii and some
others by seeds.

Hemlock Spruce ( Tsuga Canadensis). Conifercs.

Seeds. Named varieties top-worked on seedlings.
Handled the same as Abies and Picea, which see.

Hemp. See Cannabis.
Hepatica. Ranunculacetz .

Can be propagated by division ; also by seeds.

Heracleum (Cow Parsley, Cow Parsnip). Umbellifera '.

Readily increased by seeds or divisions.
Herbert ia. Iridacecz.

Propagated by means of seeds or bulbels.

Hesperis (Dame's Violet, Rocket). Crucifercz.

The single sorts are increased by seeds; the double
forms by carefully dividing the roots, or by cuttings.

Heuchera (Alum Root). Saxifragace<z.

Seeds. Readily increased by dividing the crowns dur-
ing spring.

Hibiscus. Malvacecz.

Seeds. Also by divisions and layers. Cuttings ot
green wood are commonly used, made in summer for
hardy species or in early spring for tender ones. Cuttings
of ripened wood may be taken in fall, and stored until

HICORIA — HOLLY. 253

spring in a rather dry place. The variegated sorts do bet-
ter if grafted upon strong stocks.

Hicoria, Carya (Hickory, Pecan, etc.). Juglandacees.

Increased chiefly by seeds, which should be stratified or
planted (about 3 inches deep) as soon as ripe; also by
root-sprouts. Seeds are sometimes planted at intervals in
the field where the trees are to stand ; but this practice
is not to be recommended. Cuttings of the ends of grow-
ing roots are often successful. The hickory can be
grafted. Best results are probably obtained by veneer or
splice-grafting in winter, on potted stocks. Cleft-grafting
can be employed outdoors, however, the stub being cut
3 to 6 inches below the ground, and the cions covered
with earth, as for grafting the grape. The cions must be
perfectly dormant, and are safer, therefore, if they have
been kept on ice or in a very cold cellar. Saddle-grafting
upon young twigs is sometimes used. Shield- and flute-
budding often succeed in the hickories, as, in fact, many
kinds of graftage do ; but the skill of the operator is more
important than the method. See also Pecan.

Hippeastrum (Equestrian Star). Amaryllidacece.

Seeds may be sown as soon as ripe in well-drained pots
or pans of sandy loam, slightly covered, and placed in a
temperature of about 65°. For increasing by divisions —
which is the usual way — the old bulbs should be taken
from the pots and carefully separated, with the least pos-
sible injury to the roots. This should be done when the
plants are at rest, and the offsets should be placed singly
in pots. Keep the bulb about two-thirds above the level
of the soil, dispose the roots evenly, and plunge in bottom
heat, in a position exposed to the light.

Hippophae (Sallow Thorn, Sea Buckthorn). Elczagnacea.

May be increased by seeds, suckers, layers, and cuttings
of the roots.

Hoffmannia, Higginsia. Rubiacece.

Insert cuttings in sandy soil under cover, in bottom
heat.

Hog Plum. See Spondias.
Holly. See Ilex.

254 THE NURSERY LIST.

Hollyhock (Althaea). Malvacece.

Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe — in summer — in
pots or pans, and placed in a slight bottom heat or in the
open air. In either case, place the seedlings in 3-inch
pots, and winter in a coldframe. Dividing the roots, after
flowering is over, by separating the crown, so as to pre-
serve one or more buds and as many roots as possible to
each piece. Cuttings of young shoots 3 inches long,
taken off close to the old root at nearly the same time,
should be placed singly in small pots of light, sandy soil
and kept close, and shaded in a coldframe until rooted.
If cuttings are made during winter, a gentle bottom heat
must be given. Also grafted (see page 129). See also
Althaea.

Honesty. See Lunaria.

Honey Locust. See Gleditschia.

Honeysuckle. See Lonicera.

Hop. See Humulus.

Hop Hornbeam. See Ostrya.

Horehound (Marrubium vulgar e}. Labiates.

Seeds, in early spring. Division.
Horkelia. See Potentilla.
Hornbeam. See Carpinus.
Horse-Chestnut. See ^Esculus.

Horse-Radish (Nasturtium Armor acia]. Crucifertz.

Root cuttings ("sets"). These are made from the
small side roots when the horse-radish is dug. They may
be anywhere from one-fourth to one inch in diameter, and
3 to 6 inches long, one end being cut slanting, to mark it.
These are planted obliquely, 2 to 4 inches deep, in spring.
They may be buried during winter. ( Fig. 64. ) The old
crowns may be planted, but they make poorer roots.

Hottonia. Prinmlacefe.

Propagation is effected by seeds, and divisions in spring.
House-Leek. See Sempervivum.

House Plants. The common conservatory plants, like
fuchsias, geraniums, carnations, and the like, give best
results when allowed to bloom but one year. They are

HOUSTONIA HYACINTHUS. 255

then thrown away and their places supplied by other
plants. Cuttings are generally made in late winter or
spring for the next winter's bloom. These cuttings are
slips (page 65) of the growing wood. See the various
species, under their respective heads.

Houstonia. Rubiaceez.

Seeds. May also be increased by carefully made divi-
sions in autumn or spring.

Hovea, Poiretia. Leguminostz.

Propagation is best effected by seeds, sown in well-
drained pots of sandy peat soil in spring, and placed in
a gentle bottom heat. Cuttings are difficult to strike.

Hovenia. Rhamnacecz .

Increased by seeds. Root cuttings are also used. Ri-
pened cuttings should be placed in sand, under a hand-
glass.

Hoya (Honey Plant, Wax Flower). Asclepiadacecz.

For layering, good-sized shoots should have a few of
their leaves removed, and should then be put in pots of
soil until rooted. The plants may afterwards be grown
on, and repotted according to their strength. Cuttings
may be taken in spring or later in the year, from shoots
of the preceding summer's growth, and placed in a com-
post of peat and sand, and plunged in bottom heat in a
frame. A slight shade and careful watering will be neces-
sary. H. bella does best when grafted on a stronger
growing sort.,

Huckleberry. See Vaccinium and Whortleberry.

Humulus (Hop). Urticacece.

It may be propagated by seeds, or by divisions in spring.
Ordinarily, however, the species is increased by hard-
wood cuttings of two-bud lengths from the best old
shoots, and made in spring. Leave the top bud just
above the ground.

Hyacinthus (Hyacinth). Liliacea.

Seeds are employed for the production of new varieties.
These are sown the same season they mature, in light,
sandy soil, and are covered not more than a half-inch
deep. In four or five years, or sometimes even longer,
the bulbs will be large enough to flower. Varieties are
perpetuated by means of the bulbels, which form freely

256 THE NURSERY LIST.

upon some varieties. These are treated in much the
same manner as mature bulbs, or they may be handled in
pans or flats. They make flower bulbs in two or three
years. To increase the numbers of these bulbels, the
bulbs are variously cut by the Dutch growers. These
practices are described arid illustrated on pages 28 and
29, Figs. 21-23. Hyacinths can be propagated by leaf
cuttings. Strong leaves should be taken in early spring
•and cut into two or three portions, each portion being
inserted about an inch in good sandy loam, and given a
temperature of about 75°. In eight or ten weeks a bulb-
let will form at the base of the cutting (see page 60).
The lower leaves give better results than the upper ones.
These bulblets are then treated in the same manner as
bulbels. For Hyacinthus candicans, see Galtonia.

Hydrangea, Hortensia. Saxifragacece.

The hardy species are usually propagated by green cut-
tings in summer, under glass (see Fig. 75). The tender
ones (H. Hortensia, the yar. Otaksa, etc.) are increased
by cuttings taken at any time from vigorous young wood,
usually in late winter. Layers are occasionally employed,
and suckers can be separated from some species. Some-
times the hardy species are forced for purposes of propa-
gation by cuttage. H. quercifolia is propagated by little
suckers or ' ' root pips. ' ' H. paniculata grandiflora can
easily be propagated from the young wood, taken in June
and planted under glass.

Hymenocallis. Amaryllidacece.

Treated the same as Pancratium, which see.

Ilypericum. Hypericacece \

Easily increased by seeds, cuttings, or by strong pieces
of the roots of creeping-rooted species. Hard-wooded
cuttings, taken in fall, are commonly used.

Hypoxis. Amaryllidacece.

Propagation is effected by seeds and offsets.

Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis). Labiates.
Seeds. Division.

Iberis (Candytuft). Cruciferce.

The annuals and biennials are increased by seeds sown
in light sandy soil, in spring or autumn. The sub-shrubby

ILEX — IPOMCEA. 257

sorts are also increased by seeds sown in spring, but
more often by divisions or by cuttings.

Ilex, including Prinos ( Holly). Ilicinece.

Seeds, which should be stratified. They are often
cleaned of the pulpy coat by maceration. The seeds
rarely germinate until the second year. Varieties are
perpetuated by graftage. The veneer-graft, upon potted
plants, is usually employed, but other methods may be
successful. Budding is sometimes performed.

Illicium (Aniseed-tree). Magnoliacetz.

Seeds. Cuttings of young ripened shoots may be made
during summer and should be placed in sandy soil, under
a glass.

Imantophyllum. Amaryllidacea.

Seeds. Usually increased by division or by means of
bulbels.

Impatiens. See Balsam.
Indian Corn. See Maize.
Indian Fig. See Opuntia.
Indian Shot. See Canna.
Indigofera (Indigo). Leguminosce.

Propagated by seeds. Cuttings of young shoots may

be inserted in sandy or peaty soil under glass, in slight

heat.

Inula, Elecampane.' Composites.

Readily increased by seeds or by division.

lonidium, Solea. Violacetz.

The herbaceous species are increased by seeds and by
divisions. The shrubby sorts are increased by cuttings,
which will root in sand, in a frame.

Ipomoea, including Quamoclit (Moonflower, Morning Glory).
Convolvulacece -.

All the annual species are grown from seeds. Seeds of
moonflowers should usually be filed or cut on the point,
and started in a rather high temperature. The perennials
are also increased by seedage, but they may be raised
from cuttings struck in a forcing-house or a frame. The
moonflowers often do better in the north from cuttings

258 THE NURSERY LIST.

than from seeds. / Horsfallice is largely propagated by
layers, and other species may be treated in the same way.
Division is sometimes employed. /. pandurata can be
propagated by root cuttings. Also grafted (see page 129).

Ipomopsis. See Gilia.

Iresine, Achyranthes. Amarantacece .

Seeds rarely. Increased readily by cuttings. For sum-
mer bedding in the north, cuttings should be started in
February or March. For use as window plants, they
should be taken in late summer.

Iris, including Xiphion (Blue Flag). Iridacecz.

Seeds grow readily and give good results, and they are
usually produced freely, especially in the bulbous species.
Sow as soon as ripe in light soil in some protected place.
The bulbous species produce bulbels, which may be used
for multiplication. The rhizomatous species are propa-
gated by dividing the rhizome into short-rooted pieces.
Or when the rhizomes lie on the surface of the ground and
do not root readily, they may be layered.

Isonandra (Gutta-Percha Tree). Sapotacece.

Insert cuttings in sandy soil, under glass, in heat.
Itea . Saxifragacece.

Propagated by seeds or by suckers, in spring ; and in
autumn by layers.

Ivy. See Hedera and Ampelopsis.

Ixia. Iridacece.

Seeds may be sown in pans of sandy soil in autumn, and
placed in a cool frame. Propagation by bulbels is much
quicker, and is the usual method.

Ixiolirion. Amaryllidacefz .

Increased by seeds, and by bulbels.
Ixora. Rubiacetz.

Seeds. Usually increased by short-jointed green cut-
tings placed in a close frame with a strong bottom heat.

Jacaranda. Bignoniacece.

Cuttings of half-ripened shoots may be made in early
summer and placed in sand over sandy peat, in heat, and
kept shaded. Also seeds.

JACOBEAN LILY — JUGLANS. 25Q

Jacobean Lily. See Amaryllis.

Jacobinia. See Justicia.

Jasminum (Jasmine, Jessamine). Oleacece.

Sometimes by seeds, but usually by cuttings of the
nearly ripened wood, under glass. Cuttings of ripe wood
are also employed, and layers are often used.

Jatropha. Euphorbiacea.

Cuttings made of firm young shoots will strike in sandy
soil in a strong bottom heat. The cuttings, if very fleshy,
may be dried a few days before setting them.

Jeffersonia. Berberidacecz.

Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe, or divisions may
be made.

Jerusalem Artichoke (Girasole). See Artichoke.
Jessamine, Yellow. See Gelsemium.
Jonquil. See Narcissus.

Jubaea (Coquito Palm of Chili). Palmacece.
Propagation is effected by seeds.

Judas-tree. See Cercis.

Juglans (Walnut and Butternut). Juglandacece.

All the species are readily propagated by means oi
stratified nuts. Do not allow the nuts to become dry.
Artificial cracking should not be done. In stiff soils the
seedlings are apt to produce a long tap-root which renders
transplanting difficult after the first year or two. The tap-
root may be cut by a long knife while the tree is growing,
or the young seedling may be transplanted. Particular
varieties are perpetuated by grafting or budding with any
of the common methods ; but the skill of the grafter is
more important than the method. In the north, they are
sometimes worked indoors in pots. Common shield-bud-
ding works well, if the sap is flowing freely in the stock.
Flute-budding is often employed. The improved native
sorts are root-grafted in winter. Old trees can be top-
grafted like apple trees (see page 123). If nursery stocks
are grafted, it is usually best to insert the cions below
ground, as for grapes. In all walnut grafting, it is gen-
erally preferred that only one scarf or cut of the cion
should traverse the pith. It is very important that the
cions be kept perfectly dormant.

260 THE NURSERY LIST.

The " English " walnut (/. regia] is mostly grown direct
from seed in this country, and the different varieties usu-
ally come true. In California, the native walnut (J. Cali-
fornica] is often used as a stock for this species, and flute-
budding on branches a half-inch or more in diameter is
often practised. Twig- or prong-budding (Fig. 96) is
sometimes employed.

Jujube (Zizyphus Jujube}. Rhamnacecz.
Seeds and cuttings.

Juncus (Rush, Bulrush). Juncacece.

Seeds. The perennials may be increased by division.
Scirpus Taberncemontanus variegatus of florists is a form
of Juncus effusus, and is increased by division of the
stools.

Juneberry ( A melanchier oblongifolia ) . Rosacece.

Increased by using the sprouts which form freely about
the old plants ; also by seeds. The cultivated dwarf June-
berry is multiplied by suckers. See Amelanchier.

Juniperus (Juniper, Red Cedar, Savin). Conifertz.

Increased readily by seeds, which, however, often lie
dormant until the second year. Red cedar seed is one of
the species which lie dormant a year. They germinate
more readily if the pulp is removed by maceration or by
soaking with ashes for a few days. Green cuttings, in
sand under glass, root easily ; or mature cuttings may be
taken in fall and placed in a coldframe, in which they
will need little protection during winter. Some varieties
require a long time to root. Most of the named varieties
may be grafted on imported Irish stocks, which are much
used in some parts of the country. They may be veneer-
grafted and handled in a cool house.

Justicia, including Jacobinia and Sericographis. Acanthacea.

Seeds occasionally. The species strike readily from
short green cuttings on a cutting-bench or under a frame.

Kadsura, Sarcocarpon. Magnoliacea.

Seeds. Cuttings, made of nearly ripened shoots, which
should be placed in sand under glass.

Kaki. See Persimmon.

KALANCHOE KNIPHOFIA. 26l

Kalanchoe. Crassulacece.

Propagated by seed, but cuttings, when obtainaole, are
better.

Kale (Brassica oleracea, vars. ). Crucifercz.

By seeds, sown in the open in spring in the north, or in
the fall in the south.

Kalmia (Mountain Laurel, Calico-bush). Ericacecz.

May be increased by seeds, which should be sown in
shallow pans of sandy peat or sphagnum, and kept in a
coldframe until the seedlings are large enough to trans-
fer to the open air after being hardened off. By cuttings
of young shoots in sandy peat, placed in a shady situation
under a hand-glass (with much difficulty). Also by lay-
ers. Usually obtained from the woods. Varieties are
veneer-grafted under glass, upon unnamed stocks.

Kennedya. Leguminoscz.

Seeds may be sown in spring or summer, or cuttings of
rather firm side shoots may be made at the same time,
and placed in peaty soil, in a close, warm frame.

Kentia. Palmacece.

Increased by seeds, placed in light, sandy soil, with heat.
Kentucky Coffee-tree. See Gymnocladus.
Kerria. Rosacece.

Propagated by divisions, layers, and by cuttings of
young shoots, inserted under a hand-light, or by ripened
cuttings. In this country, oftener increased by ripe wood
in fall.

Klein ho via. Sterculiaceez .

Seeds. Make cuttings of the young ripened shoots,
and place in sand, in heat, under glass.

Klugia . Gesneracece.

Seeds. Propagated usually by cuttings.
Knightia. Proteacecz.

Make cuttings of ripened shoots with upper leaves on,
and place in sandy soil under glass, in a very gentle bot-
tom heat.

Kniphofia, Tritoma. Liliacece.

Increased by seeds, or by divisions of the crown in early
spring.

262 THE NURSERY LIST.

Koelreuteria. Sapindacete.

Propagated in spring by seed, by layers in autumn, and
by cuttings of the young shoots in spring ; also by root-
cuttings.

Krameria. Polygalacetz.

Cuttings, set in sand under glass, in spring. Seeds.
Kumquat ( Citrus Japonica ) . Rutacecz.

Worked on stocks of orange (which see).
Laburnum (Golden Chain). Legtiminostz.

The species may be increased by seeds. Layers and
suckers are often used. The varieties by grafting or bud-
ding on the common sorts. See Cytisus.

Lachenalia. Liliacece.

Seeds. Bulbels.
Laelia. Orchidacece .

Increased by pseudo-bulbs, as in cattleya. See also
under Orchids.

Lagerstroemia (Crape Myrtle). Lythracece.

Seeds. Layers. Cuttings of firm, small side shoots
may be made in spring, and placed in bottom heat.

Lagetta (Lace Bark). Thymclaacete.

Usually increased by cuttings of firm shoots, placed in
sand under glass, in bottom heat.

Lantana. Verbenacece.

Seeds, which give new varieties. Cuttings, in fall or
spring, from good growing wood, in sand in a warm house
or frame.

Lapageria, Phsenocodon. Liliacece.

Sow seeds as soon as ripe in a sandy peat soil, and keep
in a moderate heat. Increased by layers of firm, strong
shoots.

Lariz (Larch, Tamarack). Conifercz.

Seeds should be kept dry over winter and planted early
in spring. Shade the young plants. Varieties, as the
weeping sorts, are worked upon common stocks. The
grafting may be done by the whip method, outdoors early
in spring. Rare sorts are sometimes veneer-grafted under
glass.

LARKSPUR — LEDUM. 263

Larkspur. See Delphinium.
Lasiandra. Melastomacece.

Propagated by cuttings of the growing wood under
glass.

Lasiopetalum. Sterculiacece .

Seeds. Make cuttings in spring of the half-ripened
wood, and insert in sand, under glass.

Latania. See Livistona.

Lathy rus (Sweet Pea, Vetchling). Leguminosce.

Seeds, sown very early in the open. The perennials
also by seeds, sometimes by division. The sweet pea
may be sown before frosty weather is passed, and south of
Norfolk it is usually satisfactory if sown in the fall. The
everlasting pea (L. latifolius} is increased by seeds, divi-
sion and cuttings.

Lattice-leaf. See Ouvirandra.
Laurel, Mountain. See Kalmia.
Laurus (Laurel). Lauracece.

Increased by seeds, layers, and by cuttings, placed

under a hand-glass in sandy soil. Also propagated by

root-cuttings.

Laurestinus. See Viburnum.

Lavandula (Lavender). Labiates '.

Divisions. When the flowers are fully expanded, cut-
tings may be made. These should be inserted in sandy
soil, under a frame.

Lawsonia. Lythracece.

Increased by cuttings of ripened shoots, placed in sand
under a glass, in heat.

Layia. Composites.

Increased by seeds, sown in a hotbed, or in the open
border in the south.

Leaf-Beet, or Chard. See Beet.

Ledum (Labrador Tea). Ericacece.

Propagated by seeds and divisions, but principally by
layers, in sandy peat soil.

264 THE NURSERY LIST.

Leek (Allium Porrum}. Liliacece.

Seeds, sown very early in the spring, either outdoors or
in a coldframe.

Leiophyllum (Sand Myrtle). Ericacecs.

May be freely increased by seeds, sown in pans and
placed in a frame. By layers in autumn.

Lemon (Citrus Medica, var. Limon}. Rutacecz.

The named sorts are budded upon either orange or
lemon stocks. Orange stocks are probably most gener-
ally preferred, as they are adapted to a great variety of
soils, and vigorous trees nearly always result. The bud-
ding is performed in the same manner as upon the Orange,
which see. Lemons are often grown from cuttings of the
mature wood, which are set in the open ground as soon as
the spring becomes warm, or in a frame. Stocks for bud-
ding upon are sometimes grown from cuttings in this way.

Lentil (Ervum, various species). Leguminosce.

Seeds, sown in early spring.
Leonotis (Lion's Ear, Lion's Tail). Labiates.

Seeds. Increased by cuttings, which root freely in a
gentle bottom heat, in early spring.

Leontice. Berberidacece.

May be increased by seeds or by suckers.
Leontopodium (Edelweiss, Lion's Foot). Composites.

May annually be raised from seeds, or the old plants
may be divided in spring. The seeds must be kept in a
dry place throughout the winter.

Lepachys. See'Rudbeckia.
Leptosyne. Composites.
Propagated by seeds.

Lessertia. Leguminosce.

Propagation by seeds, or by divisions in spring.

Lettuce (Lactuca sativa}. Composite.

Seeds, which may be sown under glass or in the open.
In the middle and southern states, the seeds may be sown
in the fall, and the plants protected during cold by a
mulch ; or the plants may grow during winter in the
warmer countries.

LEUCOIUM LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY. 265

Leucoium (Snowflake). Amaryllidacecz.

Seeds, for producing new sorts. Propagation is com-
monly effected by bulbels, which should be secured as
soon as possible after the foliage ripens.

Leucothoe. Ericace<z.

Increased by seeds, which should be covered very
lightly. By divisions of established plants in autumn or
winter. Also by layers.

Lewisia. Portulacacecz.

Propagated by seeds, or by divisions in spring.

Liatris (Blazing Star, Button Snake-root). Composites.

Seeds are usually sown early in autumn. Divisions may
be made in spring.

Libonia. Acanthacecz .

Seeds are rarely employed. Usually increased by short
green cuttings, like fuchsia and pelargonium.

Licuala. Palmacece.

Seeds may be sown in spring in a sandy soil, and
placed in a strong, moist bottom heat.

Ligustrum (Privet, Prim). Oleacecz.

Stratified seeds. Division. The named varieties are
grown from cuttings, either of green or ripe wood.

Lilac. See Syringa.

L ilium (Lily). Liliacetz.

Seeds — giving new varieties in the variable species —
should be sown as soon as ripe in well-drained pans of
sandy peat, slightly covered with similar soil and a layer
of moss, and placed in a cool frame. Usually increased
by bulbels, which should be planted a few inches apart in
prepared beds. Sometimes small bulblets form in the
axils of the leaves, and these are used in the same man-
ner as bulbels. Bulb-scales are often employed for the
multiplication of scarce kinds. Those which produce
large and loose bulbs, as L. candidum, may be increased
by simple division. These operations are described on
pages 26 to 31.

Lily-of-the-Valley. See Convallaria.

266 THE NURSERY LIST.

Lime (Citrus Limetta and C. Medica, var. acris}. Ru-

tacece.

Seeds, which usually reproduce the variety. Some va-
rieties are budded upon strong seedlings.

Lime-tree. See Tilia.
Limnocharis. Alismacecs.

Increased by seeds, by divisions, and by runners.
Linaria (Toadflax). Scrophulariacete.

Increased by seeds sown in light soil, in early spring.
Or by divisions made in spring or autumn. The green-
house species are ordinarily grown from seeds, which
should be carefully sown in finely pulverized soil. Cut*
tings may also be used.

Linden. See Tilia.

Lindera (Spice-bush, Benzoin). Lauracetz.

Seeds, stratified. Divisions. Cuttings, as in Cornus.
Lindleya. Rosace ce.

Increased by ripened cuttings under glass in bottom
heat ; or by grafting on the hawthorn.

Linnaea. Caprifoliaceez \

Naturally increased by layers or runners. Seeds are
rarely employed

Linum (Flax). Linacecz.

Propagated by seeds, the hardy species sown outdoors
and the tender ones under glass. Cuttings may be taken
from firm shoots and inserted in a sandy position under
glass. The ordinary flax is sown directly in the field.
See Reinwardtia.

Lippia. Verbenacece.

Seeds. Usually by cuttings of young shoots, which will
root freely in sandy soil in a close, warm frame. If it is
not possible to secure the necessary heat, cuttings of the
hard wood can be used in autumn, under glass.

Liquidambar Sweet Gum). Hamamelidecs.

Seeds, which should be stratified or sown as soon as
ripe. Many of the seeds may lie dormant until the sec-
ond year.

Liquorice. See Glycyrrhiza.

LIRIODENDRON — LOISELEURIA. 2&J

Liriodendron (Tulip-tree, Whitewood). Magnoliacea.

Increased by seeds, which are stratified as soon as they
are ripe, and sown the following spring. Named varieties
are grafted on seedlings. The seeds of the tulip-tree are
apt to be hollow, especially those grown along the eastern
limits of the distribution of the species.

Litchi. See Nephelium.

Livistona, Latania (Fan Palm). Palmacece.

Seeds, sown in a sandy soil and placed in a gentle bot-
tom heat.

Lloydia. Liliacecz.

Seeds rarely. Increased by bulbels, or 'by the creeping
shoots, leaving a bulb at the extremity.

Loasa, including Illairea. Loasacetz.

All are easily increased by seeds sown in a light, sandy
soil, usually under cover. Cuttings are rarely used.

Lobelia. Lobeliacecz.

Ordinarily increased by seeds, which are more certain
if handled in pans or flats under glass. Cuttings from
vigorous shoots may be employed, and strong plants of
some species may be divided. The cardinal flower (L.
cardinalis] is grown from seeds carefully sown in fine soil,
usually under cover.

Locust-tree. See Robinia ; also Gleditschia.

Loddigesia. Leguminoscz.

Increased in spring by cuttings placed under glass, in
sandy soil.

Loeselia. Polemoniacecz.

Seeds. Cuttings of half-ripened shoots in sand under
glass.

Logania. Loganiacece .

Propagated by cuttings of firm side shoots inserted in
sandy soil, under glass.

Loiseleuria. Ericacece.

Propagation by layers ; very rarely by seeds, which are
slow and uncertain. Like Andromeda.

268 THE NURSERY LIST.

Lonicera, including Caprifolium and Xylosteum (Honey

suckle, Woodbine). Caprifoliacece .
Seeds, for new varieties. Sow as soon as ripe, or
stratify, first removing them from the pulp. The upright
species are commonly grown from layers and from cut-
tings of dormant wood. The creepers are mostly grown
from dormant cuttings.

Lophospermum. See Maurandia.
Loquat See Photinia.

Lotus. Leguminosce.

The species may be raised annually from seeds. In
creased also by cuttings.

Lotus of the Wile. See Nymphaea ; also Nelumbo.

Lovage (Levisticum qfficinale}. Umbelliferce.

Seeds sown in the open ground, and division.

Lucerne. See Medicago.

Luculia. Rubiacece.

Sow seeds in sandy soil and place in a little heat. Cut-
tings of young shoots may be inserted in spring, under
glass, in gentle bottom heat for the first two or three
weeks. Insert immediately after cutting, and water freely.

Luffa (Dish-cloth Gourd). Cucurbitacece.

Seed, sown in the open, or in the north better started
in pots in early spring.

Lunar ia (Honesty). Crucifercs.

Propagated by seeds or by division.

Lupinus (Lupine). Leguminosce.

Seeds of annuals may be sown in the open border dur-
ing early spring. The perennials may be increased the
same way, or by dividing the stronger-growing plants
during very early spring.

Lycaste. Orchidacece.

Division and pseudo-bulbs. (See also under Orchids. )

Lychnis, including Agrostemma, Viscaria. Caryophyllacea.
Increased readily in spring by seeds, division or cuttings.

LYCIUM MAIDENHAIR-TREE. 269

Lycium (Matrimony Vine, Box Thorn). Solanacetz.

Increased by seeds, suckers, layers ; and by cuttings
made in autumn or spring.

Lycopodium (Club-moss). Lycopodiacecz.

Spores, as for Ferns (which see). Short cuttings in
pans or pots.

Lygodium (Hartford Fern, Climbing Fern). Filices.

By spores, and divisions of the root. See Ferns.
Lyonia. Ericacecs.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown very care-
fully in sandy peat soil. Also by layers.

Lysimachia (Loosestrife). Primulacete :

Propagation is easily effected by seeds ; by divisions in
late autumn or early spring ; and by cuttings.

Ly thrum (Loosestrife). Lyihracece.

Seeds and divisions are the usual methods. Cuttings
are employed for some species.

Maclura (Osage Orange). Urticacece.

Sow seed in the spring. Soak in warm water a few
days before sowing.

Madeira Vine. See Boussingaultia.

Magnolia. Magnoliacecz.

Seeds are commonly used. The coverings should be
macerated in the very pulpy species. The cucumber
trees and some others are sown directly in autumn. The
seeds of any species should not be allowed to become
thoroughly dry. Magnolias strike well from green cut-
tings, cut to a heel and handled under glass. Layers are
often used. Named varieties are veneer- or side-grafted
upon strong stocks. The cucumber tree (M. acuminata\
is used as a stock for all species. The umbrella tree
(M. Umbrella] is also a good stock.

Mahernia. Sterculiacece .

Propagated during summer by cuttings of young shoots,
i or 2 inches long, inserted in sandy soil under glass.

Mahonia. See Berberis.
Maidenhair-tree. See Ginkgo.

270 THE NURSERY LIST.

Maize, Indian Corn (Zea Mays}. Grammes.

Seeds (properly fruits), planted upon the approach of
warm weather.

Malcolmia. Cruciferce.

Propagated by seeds.
Mallow. See Malva.

Malope. Malvacecs.

Seeds may be sown either under glass in early spring,
or in the open border a month or two later.

Malpighia. Malpighiacecs.

Cuttings of nearly ripened shoots may be made in sunv
mer (with leaves), or under glass.

Malva (Mallow). Malvacecz.

The annuals by seeds only. The perennials may be
increased by seeds, divisions or cuttings.

Malvaviscus. Malvacetz.

Increased by seeds, and by cuttings of side shoots,
placed under glass, in heat.

Mammea (Mammee Apple, St. Domingo Apricot). Gulti'

feres.

Seeds. Cuttings of half-ripened shoots should be taken
with the leaves on and placed in a frame.

Mammillaria. See Cactus.
Mandevilla. Apocynacecz.

Propagated by seeds, layers, or cuttings of half-ripened
wood.

Mandiocca. See Manihot.
Mandragora (Mandrake). Solanacece.

Propagated by seeds or by divisions.
Mandrake. See Mandragora and Podophyllum.

Manettia. Rubiace<z.

Seeds are sometimes employed. Usually increased by
cuttings of young shoots. Root-cuttings are sometimes
made.

Mangifera. See Mango.

MANGO — MARTYNIA. VJ1

Mango ( Mangifera Indica ) . Anacardiacece.

Stocks are obtained by seeds. The seeds usually have
more than one embryo, sometimes as many as ten. Each
embryo will produce a distinct plant. The embryos may
be separated before planting, but it is preferable to sep-
arate the young plantlets soon after germination, before
they grow together, as they are apt to do. The seeds
germinate better if the hard shell is removed before plant
ing. Seeds retain their vitality but a few days, and if to
be shipped for sowing they should be enclosed in wax.
Seedlings begin to bear from the third to the sixth years.
Varieties are inarched upon other stocks.

Mangostana, Mangosteen. See Garcinia.
Manicaria, Pilophora. Palmacece.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in a strong,
moist heat.

Manihot, Janipha, Mandiocca. Euphorbiacece '.

Propagation is effected by cuttings of y ung and rather
firm shoots, placed in sandy peat under glass, in bottom
heat. For the propagation of M. Aipe, see Cassava.

Mantisia. Scitaminece.

Propagated usually by divisions, made just as growth
commences.

Maple. See Acer.
Maranta. See Calathea.

Marguerite, or Paris Daisy (Chrysanthemum frutescens and

C. fceniculaceum}. Composites.

Cuttings, as described for Chrysanthemum, which see.
Marigold. See Tagetes and Calendula.
Mariposa Lily. See Calochortus.
Marsdenia. Asclepiadacece.

In spring, cuttings may be made and inserted in sand,
under glass.

Marsh-Mallow. See Althaea.
Marsh-Marigold. See Caltha.
Martynia (Unicorn Plant). Pedalinece.

Seeds, sown where the plants are to grow, or started
under glass in the north.

272 THE NURSERY LIST

Masdevallia. Orchidacece.

Division. See also under Orchids.
Matthiola (Stock, Gilliflower). Cruciferce.

Seeds, sown either under cover or in the garden
Grows readily from cuttings.

Maurandia, including Lophospermum. Scrophulariacecs.

Seeds, sown in heat. Cuttings of young growth undei
glass.

Maxillaria. Orchidacece.

Division of the plants, and also of the pseudo-bulbs.
See also under Orchids.

May-Apple. See Podophyllum.
Meadow-Rue. See Thalictrum.
Meadow-Sweet. See Spiraea.

Meconopsis. Papaveracetz .

Seeds, sown in early spring in a gentle heat. Also
propagated by division.

Medicago (Lucerne, Medick). Leguminosce .

Propagated by seeds or by division. Alfalfa (M. saliva]
by seeds in spring.

Medinilla. Melastomacecz.

Cuttings of young wood in strong, close heat.

Medlar (Pyrus [or Mespilus\ Germanica}. Rosacece.

Stocks are grown from stratified medlar seeds, and the
plant may be worked upon these, the thorn, or the quince.

Megarrhiza. Cucurbitacece :

Propagation is effected by seeds, sown in gentle heat
in spring.

Melaleuca. Myrtacecz.

Seeds. In spring, cuttings getting firm at the base may
be made about 3 inches in length. Place in a compost
of peat and sandy loam.

Melastoma. Melastomacece.

Make cuttings during spring, and place in sandy peat
under glass, in heat.

MELIA — MILKWEED. 273

Melia (Bead-tree, Pride of India). Meliacetz.

Seeds, sown as soon as ripe. Cuttings of growing wood
under glass.

Melicocca (Ginep, Spanish Lime). Sapindacece.

Seeds. Place ripened cuttings in sand under glass, in
heat.

Melocactus. See Cactus.

Melon (Cucumis Melo}. Cucurbitacecz .

Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand. In the

north they are occasionally started under glass in pots or

pieces of inverted sods, by amateurs.

Menispermum (Moon-seed). Menispermacetz.

Propagated by seeds, division or cuttings, in spring.
Mentzelia. Loasacece.

Increased by seeds in spring, in gentle heat. The seed-
lings of Bartonia aurea (properly Mentzelia Lindleyi]
should be potted singly into small, well-drained pots. In
winter they should be placed on a dry shelf in a green-
house or frame.

Menyanthes (Buckbean). Gentianacecz.

Increased by seeds ; by division of the roots.
Mertensia (Lungwort). Borraginacece.

Propagation is effected by sowing seeds as soon as ripe,
or by divisions in autumn.

Mesembryanthemum (Fig Marigold, Ice Plant). Ficoidece.
May be easily propagated by seeds, sown under glass ;
by pieces, pulled or cut off and laid in the sun on moist
sand.

Mespilus. See Medlar.
Michaelmas Daisy. See Aster.
Michelia. Magnoliacece.

Seeds. Make cuttings of growing wood in summer,
and place in sand under glass.

Mignonette. See Reseda.
Milfoil. See Achillea.
Milkweed. See Asclepias.

274 THE NURSERY LIST.

Milla. Liliacecs.

Increased by seeds, bulbels or by division.

Miltonia. Orchidacece.

Dividing the pseudo-bulbs. See also under Orchids.

Mimosa (Sensitive Plant). Leguminosa*

Seeds, sown indoors. Cuttings of rather firm shoots,
and inserted in sandy soil, in heat.

Mimulus (Monkey-flower, Musk Plant). Scrophulariacete.
Propagated by seeds, which should be thinly sown and
lightly covered. Also by division, and cuttings.

Mint. See Peppermint and Spearmint.

Mirabilis, Jalapa (Marvel of Peru, Four-O'clock). Nycta-

ginacefe.
Seeds, sown in spring either under cover or outdoors.

Miscanthus (Eulalia, Zebra-grass). Graminece.
Division and seeds.

Mistletoe. See Viscum.

Mock Orange. See Philadelphus.

Momordica. Cucurbitacece.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in heat early
in spring, or in the open in the south.

Monk's Hood. See Aconitum.

Monstera, Serangium, Tornelia. Aroidete.

Easily increased by seeds and by cuttings of the stem.
Montbretia. See Tritonia.
Moon-flower. See Ipomcea.
Moon-seed. See Menispermum.
Morning-glory. See Ipomcea.
Morus. See Mulberry.
Mountain Ash. See Pyrus.
Mountain Laurel. See Kalmia.
Mourning Bride. See Scabiosa.

MUCUNA MUSHROOM. 275

Mucuna (Cow-itch). Leguminos&.

Propagation may be effected by seeds, or by cuttings
of half-ripened wood under glass.

Muehlenbeckia, Sarcogonum. Polygonacece .

Seeds. Increased usually by cuttings, taken in early
summer, in a frame.

Mulberry (Morusalba, M. nigra, M. rubra^ etc.). Urticacecs.

New sorts are grown by seeds, which should be han-
dled in the same manner as small-fruit seeds. Named
varieties are multiplied by cuttings of the root, or of ma-
ture wood, and sometimes by layers. They may be cion-
budded in the spring (see Fig. 115). In the south, cuttings
of the Downing mulberry are used for stocks (Fig. 105).

The common white mulberry was formerly used as a
stock for named varieties, but Russian mulberry seedlings
are now much used. The stocks may be top-worked out-
doors (as explained above) or root-grafted in the house.
The fancy varieties are commonly crown-worked, in the
house in winter, the stocks being grown in pots or boxes
for the purpose. They are then kept under glass until the
weather permits them outdoors. By this method choice
specimen trees are procured, but they are readily handled
by cheaper methods. The weeping and other ornamental
sorts are worked upon the Russian mulberry.

Mulberry, Paper. See Broussonetia.

Mullein. See Verbascum.

Musa ( Banana, or Plantain-tree ) . Scitaminea.

Seeds may be sown in heat during spring. Suckers
are used for those species which produce them. Many
of the species do not produce seeds freely, and suckers
must be relied upon. Musa Ensete is propagated by
seeds. See Banana.

Muscari, including Botryanthus (Grape Hyacinth). Liliacecz.
Increased by seeds ; also by bulbels, which are obtained
by lifting the old bulbs early in the autumn, about every
second year.
Mushroom (Agaricus campestris).

Break up the commercial spawn into pieces about as

large as a hen's egg, and plant it two or three inches deep

in drills or holes, using from one-half-pound to a pound of

spawn to each square yard of bed.

The spawn is the mycelium of the fungus grown in a

276 THE NURSERY LIST.

mass or "brick" of earth and manure. Various meth-
ods are employed for making the spawn, but the essen-
tials of them all are that the body of the brick shall be
composed of a porous and light material, which can be
compressed into a compact mass ; fresh mycelium must
be communicated to this mass, and then a mild heat
must be applied, until the whole mass is permeated by
the mycelium. The mass should be kept in heat until
the whole of it assumes a somewhat cloudy look, but not
until the threads of the mycelium can be seen. Ordina-
rily, fresh horse-manure, cow-manure and good loam are
mixed together in about equal proportions, enough water
being added to render the material of the consistency of
mortar. It is then spread upon the floor or in large vats,
until sufficiently dry to be cut into bricks. When these
are tolerably well dried, mycelium from a mushroom bed
or from other bricks is inserted in the side of each brick.
A bit of spawn about the size of a small walnut is thus
inserted, and the hole is plugged up. The bricks are
now placed in a mild covered hotbed, with a bottom heat
of 55° to 65°, and left there until the clouded appearance
indicates that the mycelium has extended throughout the
mass.

Soil from a good mushroom bed is sometimes used to
sow new beds, in place of commercial spawn.

Old clumps of mushrooms may be allowed to become
dry, and they may then be mixed into a bed. The
spores will then stock the soil and prodace a new crop.
The full-grown mushroom may be laid upon white paper
until the spores are discharged, and these spores may
then be mixed into the earth. Propagation by spores is
little understood. (See page 24.)

Mustard (Brassica or Sinapis species). Cruciferce.
Propagated by seeds.

Mutisia. Composite?.

Seeds. Layers and cuttings of growing wood, those of
the tender species in bottom heat.

Mygindia, Rhacoma. Celastracece.

Seeds. Cuttings of firm shoots under glass.

Myosotis (Forget-me-not). Borraginacece.

Propagated by seeds sown in spring indoors or in the
garden. The perennials may also be increased by divi-

MYRICA NECTARINE. 277

sion, in spring, or by cuttings placed under a hand-glass
in a shady spot, in summer.

Myrica (Bay berry, Sweet Gale, Wax Myrtle, Candleberry)

Myncacetz.

Hardy species mostly by seeds, from which the pulp
has been removed. Sow as soon as ripe, or stratify them.
Layers and divisions may also be employed. The green-
house species are increased mostly Dy green cuttings.

Myristica (Nutmeg). Myristicacece .

May be increased by seeds ; or by cuttings of ripened
shoots placed in sand under glass, in bottom heat.

Myrobalan. See Prunus.

Myrrhis (Sweet Cicely or Myrrh). Umbelliferte.
May be increased by divisions or by seeds.

Myrsiphyllum. Liliacecz.

Freely increased by seeds, or by divisions. M. aspara-
goides (properly Asparagus medeoloides}, the "Smilax"
or Boston-vine of greenhouses, is increased by seeds,
which germinate readily. The roots may also be divided,
but seeds are to be preferred.

Myrtus (Myrtle). Myrtacece.

Seeds, when they can be obtained. Readily propagated
by cuttings of firm or partially ripened shoots, placed in
a close frame ; those of the stove species require a
warmer temperature than the half-hardy ones.

Naegelia. Gesneracece.

Seeds rarely. Propagation is effected by potting the
runners in spring or summer in a compost of peat, leaf
soil and a little loam. Cuttings of young shoots, or
mature leaves, will also root readily. Compare Sinningia.

Narcissus (Daffodil, Jonquil, Chinese Sacred Lily). Ama-

ryllidacece.

New varieties are grown from seeds, which give flow-
ering bulbs in three or four years. Ordinarily increased
by bulbels, which usually flower the second year.

Nasturtium. See Water Cress, and Tropaeolum.

Nectarine. Propagated the same as Peach.

278 THE NURSERY LIST.

Negundo (Box Elder). Sapindacece.

Propagates with readiness by seeds, which should be
sown as soon as ripe. Also by cuttings of mature wood,
handled like grape cuttings.

Neillia. Handled the same as Spiraea, which see.

Nelumbo, Nelumbium (Water Chinquapin, Lotus, Water

Bean). Nymphceacece.

Seeds, which may be sown in shallow pans of water in
the garden, or if sown in ponds they may be incorporated
in a ball of clay and dropped into the water. The seeds
of some species are very hard, and germination is facili-
tated if they are very carefully filed or bored (see Fig. is).
Sections of the rhizomes may be used instead ; they
should always be covered with water, at least a foot or
two deep, if outdoors. The False Lotus or Sacred Bean
(N. Indicum or speciosum ) by division and seeds.

Nemastylis. Iridacece,

Propagation is effected by seeds, or by bulbels.
Nemopanthes (Mountain Holly). Ilicinece.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown as soon as
ripe or else stratified ; also by division of old plants.
Nemophila. Hydrophyllacece.

Seeds may be sown in late summer or any time during
early spring.
Nepenthes (Pitcher Plant). Nepenthacece.

Propagated by seeds and cuttings. The seeds must
have good drainage, uniform conditions and strong heat
(80° to 85°). Sow upon a soil made of peat and fine
sphagnum, and keep in a moist and close frame. Cut-
tings are usually struck in moss in a frame having strong
bottom heat. A good plan is to fill a small pot with
moss, invert it, and insert the cutting through the hole in
the bottom. The pot then keeps the moss uniform in
temperature and moisture. The pot is broken when the
plant is removed. When potting off, use very coarse ma-
terial.
Nepeta, Glechoma (Catmint, Catnip). Labiatce.

Propagated by sowing seed in spring, or by division.
Nephelium (Litchi). Sapindacece.

May be increased by seeds, or by cuttings made of half-
ripened wood.

NEPHRODIUM NORWAY SPRUCE. 279

Nephrodium. See Ferns.
Nephrolepis. See Ferns.
Nerine (Guernsey Lily). Amaryllidacece .

Seeds, for new varieties. Commonly increased by
means of bulbels.

Nerium (Oleander). Apocynacece .

Layers. Cuttings should be made of natural leading
shoots, inserted in single pots and placed in a close, warm
frame ; or they may be rooted in bottles of water and
afterwards potted in soil. See Fig. 69 a.

Nertera. Rubiacece .

Increased by seeds, divisions, or cuttings. Any small
portion will grow freely, especially if placed in a warm
frame.

Nettle-tree. See Celtis.

New Zealand Flax. See Phormium.

Nicandra. Solanacece.

Seeds, sown in the open border, or under glass in the
north.

Nicotiana (Tobacco). Solanacecz.

Propagated by seeds, started under glass or in a care-
fully prepared seed-bed. The ornamental species some-
times by cuttings. N. alata (IV. affinis of gardens) prop-
agates by root cuttings. Tobacco is handled essentially
like tomato plants.

Nierembergia. Solanacecz.

Grown from seeds, under glass. Cuttings of firm shoots
are also used.

Nigella (Fennel Flower, Love-in-a-mist). Ranunculacece .

Propagated by seeds sown in early spring in the open
Nightshade. See Solanum.
Nine-bark. See Spiraea.
Nolana. Convolvulacece.

Seeds sown in the open border during spring.
Norfolk Island Pine. See Araucaria.
Norway Spruce. See Picea.

280 THE NURSERY LIST.

Nuphar. Propagated same as Nelumbo and Nymphaea,
which see.

Nutmeg. See Myristica.
Nuttallia. Rosacece.

May be propagated by seeds ; by divisions ; by means
of suckers, which spring from the roots.

Nut-trees. See the various genera, as Almond, Chestnut,
Hicoria, Juglans and Pecan.

Nymphaea, Castalia (Water Lily, Lotus). NymphaacetK.

Seeds, which are rolled up in a ball of clay and dropped
into a pond, or sown in pots which are then submerged in
shallow water, either indoors or out. Usually increased
by portions of the rootstocks, which are sunk in the pond
and held by stones, or the tender species placed inside, in
pans of water. Some species produce tubers on the root-
stocks, which are used for propagation.

Nyssa (Pepperidge, Sour Gum, Tupelo-tree). Cornacece.

Increased by seeds and by layers. The seeds should be
sown as soon as ripe or else stratified. They usually lie
dormant the first year.

Oak. See Quercus.
Obeliscaria. See Rudbeckia.
Ochna. Ochnacecz.

During summer, cuttings may be made of growing
shoots.

Odontoglossum. Orchidacece.

Division. See also under Orchids.

(Enothera, including Godetia (Evening Primrose). Ona-

grace<z.

Seeds may be sown in spring or summer. Divisions
may be made. Cuttings of perennials should be placed
in a cool frame in the early part of the season before flow-
ering begins.

Okra, Gumbo (Hibiscus esculentus}. Malvaceae.

Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand,, or started in
pots often in the north.

Olax. Olacine&.

Grown from cuttings of firm or mature shoots in heat.

OLEA ONION. 28l

Olea. Oleacea.

The ornamental species are grown from cuttings of
ripened shoots, either under frames or in the border, and
also by seeds. For propagation of O. Europcea, see Olive.

Oleander. See Nerium.
Oleaster. See Elseagnus.

Olive (Olea Europcea}. Oleacece.

The olive is grown in large quantities from seed, espe-
cially in Europe. The pulp is removed by maceration or
by treating with potash. The pits should be cracked or
else softened by soaking in strong lye, otherwise they win
lie dormant for one or two years. Cuttings of any kind
will grow. Limbs, either young or old, an inch or two
inches in diameter, and from i to 2 feet long, are often
stuck into the ground where the trees are to grow, or they
are sometimes used in the nursery. Green cuttings, with
the leaves on, are often used, being handled in frames or
in boxes of sand. Chips from old trunks, if kept warm
and moist, will grow. The olive is often propagated by
truncheons of trunks. A trunk 2 or 3 inches in diameter
is cut into foot or two-feet lengths, and each length is split
through the middle. Each half is planted horizontally,
bark up, 4 or 5 inches deep, in warm moist soil. The
sprouts which arise may be allowed to grow, or they may
be made into green cuttings. Knaurs (see page 64) are
sometimes used. The olive can be budded or grafted in
a variety of ways. Twig-budding and plate or H-budding
(Figs. 96, 97, 98) give admirable results, and are probably
the best methods. Twig-budding is the insertion of a
small growing twig which is cut from the branch in just
the manner in which shield- buds are cut. (Fig. 96.) Side-
grafting is also successful. (Fig. 113.)

Omphalodes, Picotia. Borraginacecz .

Freely increased by means of seeds planted in spring,
or by division.

Oncidium. Orchidacecs -.

Division. In some species detachable buds are pro-
duced in the inflorescence, and these give young plants.
(See also under Orchids.)

Onion (Allium Cepa and A. fistulosum}. Liliacece.

Onions are mostly grown from seeds, which must be

282 THE NURSERY LIST.

sown as early as possible in spring ; or in the south they
may be sown in the fall. They are also grown from
"tops," which are bulblets borne in the flower cluster.
These are planted in the spring, or in the fall in mild cli-
mates, and they soon grow into large bulbs. "Sets " are
also used. These are very small onions, and when planted
they simply complete their growth into large bulbs. Sets
are procured by sowing seeds very thickly in poor soil.
The bulbs soon crowd each other, and growth is checked,
causing them to ripen prematurely. Good sets should
not be more than a-half inch in diameter. Very small
onions which are selected from the general crop— called
" rare-ripes " — are sometimes used as sets, but they are
usually too large to give good results. Some onions — the
"multiplier" or "potato onions" — increase themselves
by division of the bulb. The small bulb, which is planted
in the spring, splits up into several distinct portions, each
one of which will multiply itself in the same manner when
planted the following year.

Onobrychis (Saintfoin). Leguminosce.

Seeds, sown in spring where the plants are to remain.
Onosma (Golden Drop). Borraginacece.

Seeds, sown in the open in spring. Perennial species
by cuttings in summer.

Opuntia (Prickly Pear, Indian Fig). Cactacece.

Seeds grow readily, sown as soon as ripe in ordinary
sandy soil, either in the house or outdoors. The joints
grow readily if laid on sand. It is customary to allow
these cuttings to dry several days before planting them.
See also Cactus.

Orach (A triplex: hortensis}. Chenopodiacetz .
Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand.

Orange {Citrus Aurantium, etc.). Rutacecz.

Orange stocks are grown from seeds, which should be
cleaned and stratified in sand or other material, until sow-
ing time. The seeds should not be allowed to become
hard and dry. Some prefer to let the seeds sprout in the
sand and then sow them in the nursery, but they must be
carefully handled. The seeds are usually sown in seed
beds, after the manner of apple seeds, and the seedlings
are transplanted the next fall or spring into nursery rows.
Care must always be exercised in handling orange plants

ORANGE. 283

Orange, continued.

as they are often impatient of transplanting. Oranges
grow readily from cuttings, although cuttage is not often
practiced. Green cuttings, handled under .a frame, give
good results. Mature wood, either one or two years old,
can be treated after the manner of long grape cuttings.
They must have an abundance of moisture. Layers are
sometimes made.

The named varieties are shield-budded upon other
stocks. Grafting can be practiced, but it is often unsatis-
factory. The nursery stocks are commonly budded in the
spring, after having grown in the rows one year, which is
two years from the sowing of the seed. If thorn-bearing
varieties are to be propagated, a thorn with a bud in its
axil is often cut with the bud, to serve as a handle in
place of the leaf-stalk, which is used in summer budding.
Many stocks are used for the orange. The leading ones
are sweet or common orange, sour orange (Citrus Auran-
tium, var. Bigaradia], pomelo (Citrus decumana}, Ota-
heite orange, trifoliate orange (Citrus, or sEgle, trifoli-
ata], and various lemons, as the ''French" or Florida
Rough and the Chinese. For general purposes, the sweet
and sour orange stocks are probably the best. The sour
stock is obtained from wild seeds, this variety having
extensively run wild in Florida from early times. The
trifoliate and Otaheite stocks are used for dwarfing or for
small growing sorts, as many of the Japanese varieties.
The trifoliate orange is also one of the hardiest of the
orange stocks, and its use will probably increase upon the
northern limit of the orange belt. Old orange trees can
be top-budded with ease. It is advisable to cut them
back a year before the operation is performed, in order
to secure young shoots in which to bud. In ordinary
greenhouse practice, the seedlings of the pomelo make
good stocks. They can be established in three-inch pots
the first season, and veneer-grafted the next winter.

The Rowell method of propagating the orange (so
named for William M. Rowell, Fort Meade, Florida, its
inventor) is thus described by a local Florida newspaper
(Bartow Courier-Informant, 1891) :

"Mr. Rowell's process is almost startling in novelty,
yet it is very simple. Briefly stated, it is about as follows :
Cuttings ^ to % inch in diameter and loor 12 inches long,
are taken from any healthy citrus tree, and buds of any
desired variety are put in them. This is done in the
house or barn, and as the cuttings are budded they are

284 THE NURSERY LIST.

Orange, concluded.

placed in boxes and lightly covered with dirt. There they
remain until wanted for planting. The cuttings will form
roots, but the buds will remain dormant until the cuttings
are transplanted, whether that be three weeks or three
years.

' ' When planting in grove form, the cuttings are placed
in a vertical position if seedling trees are to be imitated,
or in an almost horizontal position if it be the grower's
intention to plant close and produce small trees ; and
when the object is to dwarf the trees, the cuttings are
almost inverted. In either case, the cutting is entirely
covered with dirt, except the portion occupied by the bud,
which is protected by a small cylinder of zinc, 2 or
3 inches long, which is fitted to the cutting and protrudes
through the soil, giving light and air to the bud. This is
removed, however, when the bud attains a height of 10 or
12 inches, and the soil is then drawn up around the bud.
The subsequent cultivation is the same as with trees
propagated in the usual way. Mr. Rowell has applied for
a patent on the tube.

"Now for results. Mr. Rowell has a grove which has
been produced by his method. It is on new pine land
that has never been cowpenned or fertilized in any way.
The grove is now yielding its first crop — over 300 oranges
to the tree in some instances — and is only three years old.
The public is invited to inspect these trees and compare
them with any well cared-for seeedlings six years old.
There are some other advantages claimed for this system
of propagation which we cannot now point out.

"Mr. Rowell has Japan persimmons budded in the
same way."

Orchids. Orchidacece.

The method of propagating these plants must in each
species be adapted to the habit and mode of growth. The
easiest and safest plan for the vast majority is by division,
but seeds, cuttings, layers, offsets, and very rarely roots,
are also utilized. It is important that artificial means of
increase should only be adopted where the individual
plants are in robust health. With many orchids the strug-
gle of life under the unnatural conditions we supply, is
necessarily severe, and any operation which transforms
one weak plant into two or more weaker ones, is to be
deprecated. In cases where the only method available
necessitates disturbance at the roots, consideration must

ORCHIDS. 285

Orchids, continued.

be paid to the constitution of the species, for some orchids,
even when perfectly healthy, strongly resent interference.

Seeds. — In no class of cultivated plants is propagation
by seeds more difficult and tedious than it is with orchids.
In all cases, fertilization must be performed by hand. In
England, the length of time required for the capsules to
ripen varies from three months to a year. Good seeds
form a very small proportion of the whole, and it occa-
sionally happens that the contents of a capsule will not
produce a single plant. This, however, as well as the dif-
ficulty experienced in England in rearing plants to the
flowering stage, is primarily due to the deficiency of sun-
light, and in such a bright climate as that of the United
States, would not be likely to occur. Various methods of
sowing are in vogue, such as sprinkling over pieces of
wood and cork or tree-fern stem, and on the top of moss
and peat, in which established plants of the same or a
nearly related species are growing. The last is probably
the best, but it is always advisable to try several methods.
Of course, the material on which the seeds are scattered
must always be kept moist and shaded. The period be-
tween germination and the development of the first root
is the most critical in the life of a seedling orchid. After
they are of sufficient size to handle they are potted off into
tiny pots, and as they gain strength, are given treatment
approximating that of adult plants.

Division. — Cypripediums may be taken as an example
where this is readily done. It is simply necessary to care-
fully shake off the soil from the roots, and by the aid of a
sharp knife, sever the plant into as many pieces as are re-
quired. It is always advisable to leave one or more lead-
ing growths to each portion. This method may be prac-
ticed for the increase of phaius, masdevallia, sobralia, ada,
the evergreen section of calanthe, and all of similar habit.

In nearly all those kinds where the pseudo-bulbs are
united by a procumbent rhizome, such as occurs in cat-
tleyas, the process is slower. It seems to be natural for
these plants to continue year after year, producing a single
growth from the old pseudo-bulb. To obtain additional
"leads," the rhizomes should be cut through in early
spring, two or three pseudo-bulbs being reserved to each
piece. A bud will then push from the base of each
pseudo-bulb nearest the division, and a new lead is
formed. The pieces should not be separated until this is
well established, and three years may sometimes be re-

286 THE NURSERY LIST.

Orchids, concluded.

quired. Laelia, catasetum, ccelogyne, lycaste, cymbidium,
zygopetalum, odontoglossum, oncidium, miltonia, etc.,
are treated in this manner.

Cuttings. — This method is available for those kinds with
long, jointed stems, like dendrobium and epidendrum.
Just before the plants commence to grow, say in February,
the old pseudo-bulbs are cut up into lengths, and laid on a
moist, warm surface, such as a pan of moss in a propagat-
ing frame. Young offshoots will shortly appear at the
nodes, and when large enough are potted off with the old
piece attached. This plan may be used also for barkeria
and microstylis.

It is well to remember that in any method of propaga-
tion where the pseudo-bulb is divided, the vigor of the
young plant is proportionate to the amount of reserve
material supplied it. However suitable the external con-
ditions may be for growth, it is for some time entirely de-
pendent for sustenance on the old piece from which it
springs. Dendrobium Phalcznopsis is a case in point.
If a pseudo-bulb is cut into say three pieces, it will take
at least two years for the young plants to reach flowering
strength, but frequently, by using the entire pseudo-bulb,
we can get in a single year a growth quite as large as the
old one.

The treatment of young orchids should be founded on
what suits the parents. As a rule, however, they require
more careful nursing, and some of the conditions must
be modified. Drought, intense light and cold draughts
must be avoided. For many orchids, especially those
from equatorial regions, where the atmospheric conditions
alternate between saturation and intense heat and dry-
ness, it is necessary, in order to induce flowering, that
nature, to some extent at least, should be imitated. With
young plants, by whatever method they may be obtained,
the supply of water must only be reduced in accordance
with the weather and season, and beyond that, no at-
tempt at resting made. In cases, however, where plants
have been divided or made into cuttings, a very limited
supply of water is needed at first ; but to prevent exhaus-
tion, the atmosphere should always be kept laden with
moisture.

Oreopanax. Araliaceez.

Seeds, and cuttings of the young shoots, or division of
well-established plants.

ORNITHOGALUM OXYLOBIUM. 287

Ornithogalum (Star of Bethlehem). Liliactz.

Seeds. Commonly by bulbels, and by division.
Orobus (Bitter Vetch). Leguminosce.

Readily propagated by seeds, or by dividing the tufts.
Orontium. Aroidece.

Commonly increased by division, but seeds may be used.
Orpine. See Sedum.
Osage Orange. See Maclura.
Osier. See Salix and Cornus.
Osmanthus (Japan Holly). Oleacecz.

Propagated by cuttings under glass, or by grafting on
osmanthus stock, or on privet.

Osmunda (Flowering Fern). Filices.

Mostly by division ; sometimes by spores. See Ferns.
Ostrowskia (Giant Bellwort). Campanulacece .

Propagated in the same manner as the perennial cam-
panulas, which see.

Ostrya (Hop Hornbeam, Iron wood). Cupulifercz.

Best grown from seeds. Also increased by layering;
or it can be grafted. The European species is often
grafted upon the hornbeam (carpinus).

Othonopsis, Othonna ( Ragwort). Composites.

Very easily propagated by seeds and cuttings. The
leaves also take root.

Ouvirandra (Lattice-leaf). Naiadacece .

The plants are divided ; or seeds are used when they
can be obtained.

Oxalis Geraniacece.

Seeds, divisions and cuttings. The tuberiferous species
are increased by the small tubers upon the roots.

Oxydendnim (Sorrel-tree). Eriacacetz.

Increased by seeds, which must be handled carefully in
light soil. Also by layers, which, however, often root
with difficulty.

Oxylobium (Callistachys). Leguminoscz.

Cuttings of firm wood, in spring, under glass.

288 THE NURSERY LIST.

Oxytropis. Leguminosez.

Seeds should be sown where the plants are to stand ;
also by dividing the plant in spring.

Oyster Plant. See Salsify.

Paeony (Peony, Piney). Ranunculacece.

Seeds, giving new varieties, are sown as soon as ripe.
The seedlings seldom rise above the surface the first year,
all their energies being spent in the formation of roots.
The common herbaceous varieties are oftenest propagated
by division of the clumps. Each portion should possess
at least one bud upon the crown. All woody species may
be increased by layers and cuttings. Cuttings are taken
late in summer, cut to a heel, and are handled in a frame
or cool greenhouse. During winter they should be kept
from freezing. The shrubby species and P. Moutan are
often grafted, and all species can be handled in this way.
The operation is performed in late summer or early au-
tumn, and the grafts are stored in sand or moss where
they will not freeze. The next spring they are planted
out. The cion is made from a strong short shoot, desti-
tute of flower buds, and is set upon a piece of root, as
described on pages 128, 129. Some prefer to cut a wedge-
shaped portion from the side of the stock, in which to in-
lay the cion, rather than to split the stock ; but either prac-
tice is good. Strong roots of various varieties or species
maybe used. The'Chinese paeony (P. Moutan), P. offi-
cinalis and P. albiflora are oftenest used.

Paliurus, Aubletia (Christ's Thorn). Rhamnacecs,

May be increased by seeds, by layers or by cuttings of
the roots.

Palma-Christi. See Ricinus.

Palmetto. See Sabal, and Palms.

Palms. Palmacece.

Palms are mostly grown from imported seeds. These
should always be sown in a brisk bottom heat, in a mix-
ture of coarse loam and sand. A hotbed, established
upon the greenhouse bench, is an excellent place in which
to start palm seeds. Some species are increased by
suckers, which arise from the crown or roots. For more?
explicit directions, see the various genera.

Pampas Grass. See Gynerium.

PANAX — PARSNIP. 289

Panax. See Ginseng.

Pancratium and Hymenocallis. Amaryllidacecs.

Seeds, sown in pans in heat, are sometimes employed.
Commonly increased by offsets, which usually form freely.

Pandanus (Screw Pine). Pandanacece.

Seeds and suckers, as in palms. Also by cuttings of
the young growth in heat. The " seeds " are really fruits,
and if in good condition several plants, one to ten, are
obtainable from each ; they should be separated when
well furnished with roots. These seeds are easily ob-
tained in the tropics, and are planted in moist black soil in
beds or pots. When the plants appear, the little clumps
are separated and the plantlets potted off.

Pansy. See Viola.

Papaver (Poppy). Papaveracece.

Seeds — usually sown outdoors — and divisions. P. ori-
entale and allied species are easily propagated by root-
cuttings in sandy soil under glass in autumn.

Papaw-tree. See Carica ; also Asimina.
Papyrus. Cyperacecs.

Propagation by seeds and by divisions, chiefly the latter.
Pardanthus. See Belamcanda.
Paris. Liliacecz.

Increased by seeds or by divisions.
Paris Daisy. See Marguerite.
Parkinsonia. Leguminosce.

Seeds mostly. Cuttings.
Parnassia (Grass of Parnassus). Saxifragacece.

May be propagated by seeds or by divisions.
Parrotia. Hamamelidecz.

Increased by seeds or by layers.
Parsley (Apium Petroselinum}. Umbellifertz.

Seeds, which are usually sown outdoors. The roots
may be taken up in fall to be forced under glass.

Parsnip ( Pastinaca sativa ) . Umbelliferce.

Fresh seeds, sown where the plants are to stand.

2QO THE NURSERY LIST.

Pasque-flower. See Anemone.

Passiflora (Passion Flower). Passifloracece .

Seeds, sown under glass. Cuttings of the young
growth root easily in sand in a frame. Varieties are
sometimes veneer-grafted, e. g,, P. coccinea, P. coerulea
• propagates by root-cuttings.

Paulo wnia. Scrophulariacecs.

Seeds, sown in carefully prepared soil, either in a seed
bed or in a coldframe. Cuttings of ripe wood or of roots
made in fall or spring.

Pea (Pisum sativuni). Leguminosce.

Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand. The plants
are hardy and seeds may be sown very early. For Cow-
Pea, see Vigna.

Peach (Prunus Persica). Rosacece.

The peach is perhaps the easiest to propagate of all
northern fruit trees. Stocks are universally grown from
seeds, although root-cuttings will grow. The seeds
should be buried outdoors in the summer or fall, and shal-
low enough so that they will be fully exposed to frost.
Some prefer to simply spread them upon the surface of
the ground and cover them lightly with straw to prevent
them from drying out. The pits should be kept moist,
and by spring most of them will be cracked. Those
which do not open should be cracked by hand, for if
planted they will not germinate until a year later than the
others. In large nurseries, however, the cracking of peach
pits by hand is too expensive to be practiced. The
"meats" or kernels are sorted out and planted early in
drills. Some prefer to. sprout the seeds in the house, in
order to select the best for planting. Some growers upon
a small scale pinch off the tip of the rootlet to make the
root branch. Pits should be secured, of course, from
strong and healthy trees, but the opinion that "natural
seed," or that from unbudded trees, is necessarily best, is
unfounded.

The seeds should be planted in rich soil, and the stocks
will be large enough to bud the same year. Any which
are not large enough to bud may be cut back to the
ground the next spring, and one shoot be allowed to
grow for budding, but such small stocks are usually
destroyed, as it does not pay to bestow the extra labor
and use of land upon them. When the buds have grown

PEACH — PEAR. 291

one season, the trees are ready for sale — at one year from
the bud and two years from the seed. Peach trees should
never be more than a year old (from the bud) for orchard
planting. June-budded trees are much used in the south
(see page 103). Peach trees are always shield-budded,
and the operation is fully described on pages 95 to 105.
Grafting can be done, but as budding is so easily per-
formed, there is no occasion for it. The peach shoots are
so pithy that, in making cions, it is well to leave a portion
of the old wood upon the lower end— extending part way
up the cut— to give the cion strength. Peach wounds heal
so slowly and imperfectly th'at grafting is never to be
recommended.

Peaches are nearly always worked upon peaches in this
country. Plums are occasionally employed for damp and
strong soils. Myrobalan plum is sometimes used, but it
cannot be recommended. All plums dwarf the peach
more or less. The hard-shell almond is a good stock
for very light and dry soils. The Peen-to and similar
peaches are worked upon common peach stocks.

The ornamental peaches are budded upon common
peach stocks in the same manner as the fruit-bearing sorts.

The nectarine is propagated in exactly the same manner
as the peach.

For Prunus Simoni, see Plum.

Pea-nut. See Arachis.

Pear, Alligator or Avocado. See Persea.

Pear ( Pyrus corn-munis, P. Sinensis}. Rosacece.

Pear seedlings are grown in the same manner as those
of the apple, which see. Pear stocks are imported from
France, however, as the leaf-blight is so destructive to
them here as to render their culture unprofitable. This
leaf-blight is a fungus (Entomosporium maculatum], and
recent experiment has shown that it can be readily over-
come by four or five thorough sprayings with Bordeaux
mixture, so that there is reason to hope that the growing
of pear stocks may yet become profitable in this country,
although the higher price of labor here, and the drier sum-
mers, are serious disadvantages. Heretofore, the only
means of mitigating the ravages of this blight was the
uncertain one of inducing a strong growth early in the
season. Even when pear stocks are raised in this coun-
try, they are grown from imported French seed. Aside

2Q2 THE NURSERY LIST.

Pear, continued.

from its cheapness, however, this foreign seed probably
possesses no superiority over domestic seed. But pear
seed is so difficult to obtain in America that it is practi-
cally out of the market. Seedlings of the sand pear type
have been strongly recommended for stocks, but they do
not attain general favor amongst nurserymen.

Pear seedlings should be taken up and removed from
the seed-bed the first fall. The foreign stocks are im-
ported when a year old from the seed. The seedlings are
trimmed and sometimes "dressed" (see page 96), and are
set into nursery rows the following spring. The next sea-
son— that is, the season in which the stocks are trans-
planted— shield-budding is performed, as upon the apple.

« The budding season usually begins late in July or early in
August in the north. If the stocks are small, of "second
size," they may stand over winter and be budded the
second year. Pear trees are sold at two and three years
from the bud. Pears do not succeed well when root-
grafted, except when a long cion is used, for the purpose
of securing own-rooted trees (see page no). Dormant
buds of the pear may be used upon large stocks in early
spring, the same as upon the apple and buds may be kept
upon ice for use in early summer (see page 103).

Pears are dwarfed by working them upon the quince.
The Angers quince is the best stock. The ordinary
orange quince and its kin generally make weak and short-
lived trees. Quince stocks are obtained from ordinary
cuttings or from mound-layering, the latter method giving
much the better stocks (see Quince). The layers should
-be removed the first autumn ; or, if they are not rooted
then, thev may be left a year longer, when they will be
found to be well rooted, and may then be taken off,
trimmed up and fitted to plant as stocks the following
spring, and budded in August. Quince stocks are bought
in Europe, whence they arrive in the fall. They are
" dressed" and set in nursery rows the following spring,
and the buds are set during the first season. It is im-
perative to set the bud as low as possible in order to se-
cure trees which can easily be set deep enough to cover
the union (4 to 6 inches below the surface is the common
depth of planting dwarf pears). Some varieties do not
unite well with the quince, and if it is desired to dwarf
them, they should be double-worked (see page 133).
Some of the common and popular varieties which thrive
directly upon the quince (without double-working) are the

I»EAR — FECAN. 293

Pear, concluded.

following: Angouleme (Duchess), Anjou, Louise Bonne,
Howell, White Doyenne (Virgalieu), Manning's Elizabeth,
Lawrence. Varieties which usually thrive better when
double-worked are Clairgeau, Bartlett, Seckel, and others.

The pear can also be grown upon the apple, thorn and
mountain ash. Upon the apple it is short-lived, although
pear cions, set in the top of an old apple tree, often bear
large fruits for a few years. When pear stocks cannot be
had, pears are sometimes worked upon apple roots. If
the cions are long they will emit roots, and when the ap-
ple nurse fails the pear becomes own-rooted. Good
dwarf trees are often secured upon the thorn, and there
is reason to believe that some of the thorns will be found
to be preferable to quince stocks for severe climates and
for special purposes. The subject is little understood.
The mountain ash is sometimes used for the purpose of
growing pears upon a sandy soil, but its use appears to
be of little consequence.

Pears of the Le Conte and Kieffer type are often grown
from cuttings in the south. Cuttings are made of the re-
cent mature growth, about a foot in length, and are
planted in the open ground, after the manner of long
grape cuttings. Le Conte, Garber, Smith, and other very
strong growers of the Chinese type, are probably best
when grown from cuttings. They soon overgrow French
stocks, as also apple stocks, which have been used to
some extent ; but if long cions are used, own-rooted trees
are soon obtained, and the stock will have served a use-
ful purpose in pushing the cion the first two or three
years.

Pecan (Hicoria Pecan}. Juglandacece.

Propagated by seeds. These may be planted as soon
as ripe, or stratified until spring. The ground should be
well prepared, and the nuts planted about 3 inches deep.
By grafting on pecan or common hickory stock that is not
over 2 years old. Cions about 6 inches long should be
cut during the winter and put in a cool place to hold
them back until the stocks have fairly started in the
spring. The stalks should then be cut off at (or prefera-
bly 3 to 6 inches below) the crown, and the cion inserted.
The tongue-graft gives the best result, although, as in all
nuts, the skill of the grafter is more important than the
method. Bandage securely, and bank with earth nearly
to the top of the cion, to keep it moist. It can also be
T

294 ™E NURSERY Book.

budded, like peaches. The pecan and othev rickones
will also grow from cuttings of the ends of the soft grow-
ing roots. See Hicoria.

Pelargonium (Geranium, Stork's Bill). Geraniacece.

Seeds, sown in light soil with mild heat, are sometimes
employed. Commonly increased by cuttings of firm
shoots, which grow readily (Figs. 69 c, and 73). The
common geraniums, for conservatory use, should be re-
newed from cuttings every year. The fancy or show gera-
niums are often grown from root-cuttings, but sometimes
will not come true. Geraniums can also be grafted. (See
page 130, herbaceous grafting.)

Pelecyphora (Hatchet Cactus). Cactacecs.

Propagated most freely by seeds in moderate heat, and
by cuttings made of any small shoots that arise from the
base. See also Cactus.

Peltandra. Aroidece.

Propagated by seeds when fresh, or by division.
Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium}. Labiates .

Seeds and division.
Pentstemon (Beard-tongue). Scrophulariacccz.

Seeds, sown in pans and placed under a frame ; or they
are sometimes sown in the border where the plants are
to stand. Also by division, and rarely by cuttings in
summer.

Peony. See Paeonia.

Peperomia, including Micropiper. Piperacecz.

Seeds. Cuttings of single joints of firm stems root
easily in a peaty soil. Water sparingly.

Pepper, Black. See Piper.
Pepperidge. See Nyssa.

Pepper-grass, Curled Cress (Lepidium sativum}. Cruciferce.
Grown from seeds, either under glass for early crops or
in the open air.

Peppermint ( Mentha piperita}. Labiates.

Divisions of the creeping and rooting stems are planted
to multiply the plant, and plantations are renewed every
three or four years.

PEPPER PETALOSTEMON. 2Q5

Pepper, Red or Cayenne (Capsicum}. So/anace&.

Seeds, sown outdoors, or in the north oftener started in

the house.

•
Pereskia (Barbadoes Gooseberry). Cactacece.

Seeds. Cuttings, as described under Cactus. P. acu~
leata is much used as a stock for epiphyllums. P. Bleo
is sometimes used for the same purpose, as it is fully as
good as the other species. Cuttings of P. aculeata can
be made a foot or more in length, and of sufficient size
for immediate use ; or, the graft may be inserted when the
cutting is made.

Perilla. Labiates.

Sow the seeds in early spring in pans or boxes, and
place in a gentle heat. Or southwards, seeds may be
sown in the open.

Periploca. Asclepiadacea .

Seeds. Increased mostly by layers or cuttings under
glass, during summer or autumn. Root cuttings succeed.

Periwinkle. See Vinca.

Persea (Alligator or Avocado Pear). Lauracece.

Seeds. Layers of ripened shoots may be made in au-
tumn ; or cuttings of firm shoots in spring, under glass.

Persimmon (Diospyros Kaki and D. Virginiana.} Ebenacece.
Stocks are readily grown from seed, and they usually
attain sufficient size for budding the first year. The na-
tive persimmon (Diospyrus Virginiana} is largely used
as a stock for the Japanese persimmon or kaki. Imported
stocks are occasionally employed, but the native is more
vigorous, as a rule, and probably better. Persimmons
are shield-budded the same as peaches, and they may be
root-grafted and top-grafted by ordinary methods. The
Rowell method of propagating Japanese persimmons is
described under Orange.

Persoonia (Linkia). Proteacce.

Propagated by cuttings of the ripened shoots under
glass.

Peruvian Bark. See Cinchona.

Petalostemon ( Prairie Clover). Leguminosce
Seeds and divisions.

296 THE NURSERY LIST.

Petunia. Solanacece.

Seeds, either indoors or in the garden. Choice and
double varieties are often increased by cuttings, which
grow readily.

Phacelia, Eutoca, Whitlavia. Hydrophyllacece.

The annuals are increased by seeds, and the perennials
by seeds and division.

Phaius. Orchidacecz.

Division of the bulbs. See also under Orchids.

Phalsenopsis. Orchidacece.

These are very slow and difficult to propagate. In the
majority of the species it can only be done where a lateral
offshoot is made from the main stem. Some species, such
as P. Luddemanniana, and more rarely P. amabilis, P.
Stuartiana and P. Schilleriana, develop plantlets on the
old flower scapes. By pegging these down on a basket
of moss they may be established and afterwards sepa-
rated. P. Stuartiana and P. deliciosa have been known
to produce plants on the roots. Other instances of root-
proliferation are recorded in Saccolabium micranthum
and a species of cyrtopodium. See under Orchids.

Phalaris. Graminece.

Propagated by seeds, but the sports or varieties by
division.

Phaseolus (Bean, Kidney, Pole, String, Lima, French Bean,

etc.). Leguminosce.

The ornamental greenhouse kinds are grown from seeds
planted in light soil in a warm propagating house. See
Bean.

Phellodendron (Cork Tree). Rutacece.

Increased by seeds, layers, and by root cuttings.
Philadelphia (Mock Orange, Syringa). Saxifragacece.

Seeds, layers, suckers, and cuttings. Layers are some-
times used. Cuttings of mature wood are generally em-
ployed. Some well-marked varieties, like vars. nana and
aurea of P. coronarius, are grown from cuttings of soft
wood in summer in frames.

Phillyrca (Jasmine Box, Mock Privet). Oleace<z.

Seeds. May be propagated by cuttings, layers, or by
grafting on the privet.

PHILODENDRON — PHYSALIS. 2Q7

Philodendron. Aroidetz.

Increased by seeds ; and by dividing the stems, allow-
ing two or three joints to each piece, inserting them- in
pots in a brisk heat.

Phlomis. Labiates.

All of the species may be increased by seeds ; the her-
baceous kinds by division, and the shrubby sorts also
by cuttings.

Phlox. Polemoniacecz .

The annuals are grown from seeds sown in the open.
The perennials are grown from seeds, divisions, cuttings
of stems and roots. Cuttings made during summer, and
handled in a frame, do well. The roots are cut into short
pieces, and are then handled in pans or flats under cover.

Phoenix. See Date.

Phormium (Flax Lily, or New Zealand Flax). Liliacecz.

Seeds. Also by division of the crowns before growth
commences in spring.

Photinia, including Eriobotrya. Rosacecz.

Stratified seeds or half- ripened cuttings under glass.
Varieties of loquat, P. Japonica, are grown from layers or
cuttings of ripe wood ; it is also worked upon seedling
stocks or upon thorn or quince, after the manner of pears.

Phyllanthus, including Xylophylla. Euphorbiacecz .

Increased by means of cuttings of hard shoots in heat.

Phyllocactus, including Phyllocereus and Disocactus (Leaf

Cactus). Cactacece.

Seeds germinate readily in sandy soil. Usually in-
creased by cuttings of the stems, 5 or 6 inches long,
placed in sandy soil, which is kept only slightly moist.
See also Cactus.

Phyllocladus. Conifer cz.

Cuttings of the ripened shoots under glass, in spring.
When the cuttings begin callusing, give mild bottom heat.

Physalis (Ground or Winter Cherry, Strawberry Tomato,

Husk Tomato). Solanacece.

Seeds, sown outdoors or under cover. Perennials by
division and soft cuttings.

298 THE NURSERff LIST.

Phyteuma, Rapunculus (Horned Rampion). Campanulacecz.
Easily increased by seeds or by division, in spring.

Phytolacca (Spoke, Skoke, Poke). Phytolaccacece.

May be propagated by means of seeds, or by division.

Picea (Spruce). Conifer ce.

Propagated by seeds, sometimes by layers, or grafts.
Seedlings must be shaded the first year. Also by cut-
tings of recent wood (Fig. 67 and page 64). The spruces
are easily grafted. P. excelsa (Norway spruce) makes
a good stock ; the veneer-graft, under glass, in winter,
succeeds better than any method of outdoor work prac-
ticable in our climate ; if the graft is inserted near the
base in young plants, it is quite possible to obtain them
on their own roots after a few transplanting^. Side shoots
can be used as cions, and if started in time will furnish
good leaders ; sometimes a leader is developed more
rapidly by bending the plant over at nearly a right angle,
when a stout bud may start from the stem. The Balsam
fir is also a good stock. See Abies.

Pickerel Weed. See Pontederia.

Picotee. See Dianthus and Carnation.

Pie-plant. See Rheum.

Pilea (Artillery Plant, Stingless Nettle). Urticacecz.

May be increased by seeds, division or cuttings, com-
monly the last.

Pilocereus. See Cactus.
Pimpernel. See Anagallis.
Pinanga. Palma-cecs.

Propagated by seeds.
Pinckneya. Rubiacetz.

Seeds. Cuttings of the ripened shoots under glass.

Pine-apple ( Ananas sativus ) . Bromeliacece.

Pine-apples very rarely produce seeds, but when they
are produced they are sown for the purpose of obtaining
new varieties. The pine-apple is usually increased by
suckers and "crowns." If the root is left in the ground
after the pine is removed, suckers will start from it. The
root is then taken up and cut into as many pieces as there
are suckers, each piece being then permanently planted.

PINEY — PIQUERIA. 2QQ

The crown of the fruit and the various offsets or "crown-
lets," which appear on the sides and base of the fruit,
may be removed and used as cuttings. These offsets are
commonly used in greenhouse propagation. It is the
usual practice to allow them to dry several days before
they are planted, and in pine-apple regions they are often
exposed to the sun for several weeks. This operation is
unnecessary, however, although it is not objectionable.
A good way to start the offsets is to pull off the lowest
leaves and insert the offsets in damp moss in shade— giv-
ing bottom heat for greenhouse work -and as soon as
roots begin to form, which will occur in from two to six
weeks, plant them out permanently. In the tropics fruit
can be obtained in twenty months after the offsets are
transplanted; but fruit bearing is often delayed three or
four years under poor treatment.

Piney. See Paeonia.

Pinguicula (Butterwort). Lentibulariacecz .

The hardy and greenhouse species are increased by
seeds, division, or by leaf cuttings.

Pink (Dianthus, various species). Caryophyllace<z.

Seeds and division. Best results by raising plants from
seed every two or three years. Seeds are usually sown
where the plants are to remain ; or they may be sown in a
coldframe and transplanted. See Carnation and Dianthus.

Pinus(Pine). Conifers.

Seeds, which should be kept dry over winter, are com-
monly employed. These are often started in pots, but for
most species they are sown in well prepared beds out-
doors. The seedlings must usually be shaded the first
season. Varieties, as also species which do not produce
seed freely, may be grafted upon stocks of white or Aus-
trian pine or other species. This grafting may be done
upon the tips of growing shoots early in the season (page
131), but it is oftener performed upon potted plants by the
veneer method.

Piper, Cubeba (Pepper, Cubeb). Piperacetz.

Seeds. All are increased by means of cuttings of the
growing shoots, inserted in sandy soil under glass.

Piqueria. Composites.

Piqueria trinervia (the Stevia serrata of florists) is gen-
erally grown from cuttings, like fuchsias and carnations.
Also by seeds, which are freely produced.

3OO THE NURSERY LIST.

Pistacia. Anacardiacece .

Seeds, cuttings and layers. The pistacio-nut or "green
almond" (P. vera] is usually grown from seeds, which
are planted where the trees are to stand. It is sometimes
grafted upon P. Terebinthus, to give it greater vigor.

Pitcairnia. See Billbergia.

Pitcher-plant. See Nepenthes and Sarracenia.

Pittosporum. Pittosporacete.

Seeds, and by cuttings of the growing or ripe wood,
under glass.

Planera ( Planer- tree ) . Urticacece.

Propagated by seeds, which should be handled like elm
seeds.

Plane-tree. See Platanus.

Plantago (Plantain). Plantaginacece.

Seeds. The perennial species also by division.
Plantain (fruit). See Banana ; also Musa.

Platanus (Plane-tree, Buttonwood ; Sycamore, improperly).

Platanacetz.

Usually propagated by seeds, but layers and ripe-wood
cuttings may be employed.

Platycerium (Stag's-Horn Fern). Filices.

Chiefly by division. See Ferns.
Platycodon, Wahlenbergia. Campanulacece.

Propagated by seeds, and, when old plants are obtain-
able, by division.

Plectocomia. Palmacece.

Seeds. May be increased by suckers.

Plum (Prunus, many species). Rosacece.

There are so many species of plums in cultivation, and
the varieties of the same species are often so different in
constitution and habit, that it is difficult to give advice
concerning their propagation. All the species grow read-
ily from fresh, well-ripened seeds. The pits should be
removed from the pulp and then stratified until spring.
If they are allowed tcr freeze, the germination will be
more uniform, as the pits will be more easily opened by
the swelling embryo. Plum pits are rarely cracked by

PLUM. 301

Plum, continued.

hand. The strong-growing species and varieties, espe-
cially southwards, will give stocks strong enough to bud
the first season ; but the weaker ones must stand until the
next season after the seeds are planted. In all the north-
ern states, however, plum pits are usually sown in seed-
beds, in the same manner as apple and pear seeds. The
seedlings are taken up in the fall, and the following spring
set out in nursery rows, where they are budded in August.

Plums are extensively grown from suckers, which spring
in great numbers from the roots of many species. In
France this method of propagation is largely used. So
long as graftage does not intervene, the sprouts will repro-
duce the variety ; and even in grafted or budded trees this
sometimes occurs, but it is probably because the tree has
become own-rooted from the rooting of the cion. It is a
common notion that trees grown from suckers sprout or
sucker worse than those grown from seeds. Layers are
also sometimes employed for the propagation of the
plum. Strong stools (page 39) are grown, and the long
and strong shoots are covered in spring throughout their
length — the tips only being exposed — and every bud will
produce a plant. Strong shoots of vigorous sorts will
give plants strong enough the first fall to be removed into
nursery rows. Mound-layering is also employed with
good results. Root cuttings, handled like those of black-
berry, grow readily, but some growers suppose that they
produce trees which sucker badly. Many plums grow
readily from cuttings of the mature recent wood, treated
the same as long grape cuttings. This is especially true
of the Marianna (which is a form of Myrobalan. or a
hybrid of it and some native plum of the Wild Goose
type), which is grown almost exclusively from cuttings.
Some sorts of the common garden plum (P. domestica]
also grow from cuttings.

Plums are worked in various ways, but ordinary shield-
budding is usually employed in late summer or early fall,
as for peaches and cherries. Root-grafting by the com-
mon whip method is sometimes employed, especially when
own-rooted trees are desired (pages 109, 1 10). In the north
and east, the common plum (P. domestica} is habitually
worked upon stocks of the same species, and these are
always to be preferred. These stocks, if seedlings, are
apt to be very variable in size and habit, and sometimes
half or more of any batch, even from selected seeds, are
practically worthless. Stocks from inferior or constant

3O2 THE NURSERY LIST.

Plum, continued,

varieties are, therefore, essential. Such stocks are largely
imported ; but there are some varieties which can De
relied upon in this country. One of the best of these
domestic stocks is the Horse plum, a small and purple-
fruited variety of Prunus domestica, which gives very
uniform seedlings. This is sometimes used in New York.
It is simply a spontaneous or wilding plum, in thickets and
along roadsides. The French stocks which are in most
common use are St. Julien and Black Damas. The Myro-
balan (P. cerasifera) is chiefly used for plums, however,
because of its cheapness and the readiness with which all
varieties take on it. The peach is often used as a plum
stock, and it is valuable in the south, especially for light
soils. In the north plum stocks are better. Marianna is
used southwards, very likely too freely. Almond stocks,
especially for the French prune and for light soils, are
considerably used in California. The apricot is some-
times employed, but results appear to be poor or indif-
ferent, on the whole. Prunes thrive upon the above
stocks also.

Various stocks dwarf the plum. The chief dwarf stock
at present is the Myrobalan. This is imported. It is
easily grown from seeds, or sometimes from cuttings.
Although the Myrobalan, like the Mahaleb cherry, is a
slow grower, the dwarfing of the top depends more upon
subsequent pruning than upon the root. The Mirabelle (P.
cerasifera), a foreign stock, is sometimes used. The many
species of native plums, of the Prunus Americana and P.
angustifolia (Chickasaw) types, are good stocks for dwarf or
intermediate trees. In most cases, the bud or graft grows
luxuriantly for two or three years, and thereafter grows
rather slowly. It is best to bud or graft low upon these
stocks. Unless the tops are freely and persistently headed
in, however, dwarf plum trees are not secured. The only
exception to this statement seems to be in the use of the
native dwarf cherry stocks (Prunns pumila and P. Bes-
seyi), which have been used in an experimental way with
much promise.

The native or American plums are budded upon native
seedlings, or rarely upon Primus domestic* seedlings ; or
they are grown from cuttings, as in the case of Marianna.

The Japanese plums are worked upon peach, common
plum, natives, or Marianna. Peach and Marianna are
mostly used, but as the Japanese plums begin to bear
freely their own seedlings will no doubt be used for stocks,

PLUM, COCO POLiANTHES. 303

Plum, concluded.

and this may be expected to be an advantage. Peach is
probably preferable to Marianna.

Prunus Simonii works upon peach, common plum,
Myrobalan and Marianna, chiefly upon the first.

The ornamental plums are worked upon the same
stocks as the fruit-bearing sorts. See Prunus.
. Plums (like cherries) can be top-grafted the same as
apples, but the cions must be kept completely dormant.
It is preferable to graft very early in the spring.

Plum, Coco. See Chrysobalanus.

Plumbago (Lead wort). Plumbaginacece '.

Seeds, division and cuttings. Cuttings are made from
firm, nearly mature wood, and should be given mild bot-
tom heat.

Podocarpus. Conifer &.

Usually grown from cuttings of firm wood under cover.

Podophyllum (May Apple, Mandrake; erroneously Duck's

Foot). Berberidacece.
Seeds (stratified or sown as soon as ripe) and division.

Poinciana. Leguminosce.
Propagation by seeds.
Poinsettia. Euphorbiacea -.

Cuttings of growing shoots, of two or three buds each,
handled upon a cutting-bench or in a frame Many prop-
agators prefer to let the cuttings lie exposed two or three
days before setting them. Cuttings of ripened wood can
be used to good advantage where the heat is rather low.
See Euphorbia.

Polemo.nium. Polemoniacece .

Propagated by seeds and by division.
Polianthes (Tuberose). Amaryllidacea? \

Increased by bulbels. Remove these from the parent
bulb in the fall, and keep in a warm, dry place until the
following spring. The soil should be light, rich and
moist throughout the summer. Before frost comes in the
fall, take the bulbs up, and when dry, cut off the leaves.
The bulbs should be kept as during the preceding winter,
and the culture during the following year is the same as
during the first. The bulbs usually flower the second or
third summer.

3°4 THE NURSERY LIST

Polyanthus. See Primula.
Polygala (Milkwort). Polygalacea.

Seeds ; sometimes by division, and by cuttings of young
shoots under cover, particularly for tropical species.

Polygonatum (Solomon's Seal). Liliacecs.
Propagated by seeds and by division.
Polygonum (Knot-Grass or Knot-Weed). Polygonacece.

Seeds. The perennials are also easily increased by
division of the rootstocks, and by cuttings. See Sac-
aline.

Polypodium (Polypody). Filices.
Division usually. See Ferns.
Pomegranate (Punica Granatum}. Lythracecs.

Largely by seeds, and all varieties are increased by cut-
tings, suckers, layers, and scarce sorts by grafting on a
common sort.

Pomelo, Shaddock (Citrus Decumana}. Rutacecz.

Usually grown from seeds, but it may be budded upon
pomelo or orange stocks, as in the Orange, which see.

Pontederia (Pickerel Weed). Pontederiacece.

Seeds rarely. Mostly by division. See, also, Eich-
hornia.

Poppy. See Papaver.

Populus (Poplar, Aspen, Cottonwood). Salicacece.

Seeds, sown as soon as ripe and raked in, in light soil.
Suckers are also used. Most often increased by cuttings
of ripe wood, taken in fall and spring. The weeping
forms are stock-grafted upon upright sorts, chiefly upon
P. grandidentata.

Portugal Laurel. See Prunus.

Portulaca (Purslane, Rose Moss). Portulacacete.

The annuals are raised from seed, Varieties are some-
times propagated by cuttings.

Potato (Solatium tuberosum}. Solanacetz.

Tubers, either whole or variously divided. Also rarely
by stem cuttings. See page 60.

POTENTILLA — PRUNUS. 305

Potentilla, including Horkelia (Cinquefoil, Five-Finger ),

Rosacece.

Seeds, layers, division, green cuttings.
Poterium, including Sanguisorba (Burnet). Rosaces.

The herbaceous kinds are increased by seeds and divi-
sion. The shrubs are raised from soft cuttings, under
glass. See Burnet.

Prickly Ash. See Zanthoxylum.

Prickly Pear. See Opuntia.

Pride of India. See Melia.

Prim. See Ligustrum.

Primula, Polyanthus (Primrose, Cowslip). Primulacece.

Seeds, sown carefully in very fine soil, under glass.
The seeds should be fresh ; old ones often lie dormant a
year. Many sorts are increased by division. See
Auricula.

Prinos. See Ilex.

Pritchardia. Palmacea.
Increased by seeds.

Privet. See Ligustrum.

Prune. See Plum.

Prunus, Amygdalus. Rosacece.

The dwarf almonds (Amygdalus} are increased by
seeds, division, cuttings, and by budding upon seedling
plum or peach stocks ; also by root cuttings. Peach
stocks give larger trees at first than plum stocks, but the
trees are not so long-lived. Perhaps ten years may be
considered the average life of most ornamental almonds
upon the peach, while upon the plum they may persist
twenty-five years or more. (See Almond. ) The ornamen-
tal cherries, peaches, etc., are propagated in essentially the
same manner as the fruit-bearing varieties. P. Lauro-
Cerasus and P. Lusitanica, the cherry laurel and Portugal
laurel, may be propagated by short cuttings of ripened
wood, in a cool greenhouse in autumn. P. Pissardii prop-
agates by cuttings of the soft wood and, with more diffi-
culty, from cuttings of dormant wood. Soft cuttings suc-
ceed well with many of the double-flowering plums and
cherries, if the wood is grown under glass. See Apricot,
Cherry, Peach, Plum.

306 THE NURSERY LIST.

Pseudotsuga. Conifer ce.

Propagated the same as Abies, which see.
Psidium. See Guava.
Psoralea Leguminos<z.

Seeds, divisions and cuttings of growing shoots, placed
under glass. The tubiferous species, as the " pomme
blanche ' ' or Indian potato (P. esculentd) are increased by
tubers or divisions of them.

Ptelea (Hop-tree). Rutacetz.

Increased by seeds, sown in autumn or stratified, or by
layers. The varieties may be grafted on the common
forms.

Pteris (Brake, Bracken). Filices.

Easily grown from spores. See Ferns.
Pterocarya. Juglandacete.

Increased by seeds, suckers and layers.

Ptychosperma, Seaforthia (Australia Feather-palm). Pal*
macecz.

Seeds in heat.

Pulmonaria See Mertensia.
Pumpkin ( Cucurbita, three species). Cucurbitacece.

Seeds, when the weather is settled.
Punica. See Pomegranate.
Puschkinia, Adamsia. Liliacece.

Increased by dividing the bulbs, which should be done
every two or three years.

Pyrethrum. See Chrysanthemum.

Pyrola (Shin-leaf, Wintergreen). Ericacefz.

Propagated by division ; very rarely from seeds.

Pyrus. Rosacece.

The ornamental species and varieties of apples and
crabs are budded or grafted upon common apple stocks.
The mountain ashes are grown from stratified seeds,
which usually lie dormant until the second year, or the
varieties are budded or grafted upon stocks of the com-
mon species (P. Aucuparia}. Layers and green cuttings
are occasionally employed for various species and varie-

QUAMOCLIT — QUINCE. 307

ties of pyrus. See also Apple, Pear, Quince. It is a good
plan to obtain stocks as nearly related to the plant which
is to be propagated as possible; e. g., Parkman's pyrus
does better on P. floribunda than on the common apple
stock. The wild crabs can be worked upon the apple
when stocks of their own species cannot be had.

Quamoclit. See Ipomcea.

Quassia. Simarubacece.

Cuttings of ripe shoots under glass.

Quercus (Oak). Cupuliferce.

Stocks are grown readily from seeds, which may be
sown in the fall without stratification. Take care that
vermin do not dig up the acorns. The evergreen species
are sometimes grown from cuttings. Varieties are grafted
on stocks grown from wild acorns. The stocks are potted
in the fall, and the grafting (generally the veneer-graft)
is performed in January and February, or sometimes in
August.

Quince (Pyrus Cydonia, P. Cathay ensis, P. Japonica, etc.).

Rosacece.

All quinces can be grown from seeds, the same as ap-
ples and pears ; but seeds are not common in the market,
and are, therefore, little used. The fruit-bearing quinces
are propagated most cheaply by means of cuttings of ma-
ture wood or by mound-layering. Cuttings are taken in
the fall, and are stored in sand, moss or sawdust until
spring, when they are planted outdoors. Long cuttings —
10 to 12 inches — are usually most successful, as they reach
into uniformly moist earth. Cuttings are usually made of
the recent wood, and preferably with a heel, but wood
two or three years old will usually grow. With some va-
rieties and upon some soils, there is considerable uncer-
tainty, and layerage is therefore often employed. Mound-
layering (see page 39) is practiced where extra strong
plants are required. Long root-cuttings, treated like
those of the blackberry and raspberry, will also grow.
Many nurserymen bud- or root-graft the better varieties
upon stocks of Angers or other strong sorts. These
stocks are imported from Europe (and are the same as
those used for dwarf pears). These imported plants are
grown both from cuttings and mound-layers, the greater
part of them from the latter, but seeds are occasionally
employed. These stocks are two years old when im-
ported, having been transplanted the first year from the

308 THE NURSERY LIST.

cutting-bed or the stool-yard. In order to secure extra
strong plants and a uniform stand, some growers graft
quince cuttings upon pieces of apple or pear roots. In
such cases the plants should be taken up in the fall, when
the quince will be found to have sent out roots of its
own ; the apple sprouts (or even the entire root) should be
removed, and the quince replanted the following spring in
the nursery row, otherwise suckers frequently spring from
the stock and interfere with the growth of the quince. The
union is sufficient to nurse the cion for two or three years.
The flowering or Japanese quince is best propagated
by short root-cuttings, which are usually made in the fall,
and scattered in drills in frames or in a well-prepared bor-
der in spring. Cuttings of firm, nearly mature wood,
handled in frames, will grow, but they are not often used.
The double varieties are root-grafted upon common stocks
of P. Japonica in winter. The plants are then grown on
in pots. Common quince (P. Cydonia) stocks are occa-
sionally used, but they are not in favor. The Chinese
quince (Pyrus Cathayensis] is worked upon the common
quince.

Radish (Raphanus sativus}. Crucifer(z.

Seeds, usually sown where the plants are to grow
Ragged Robin. See Lychnis.
Ramondia, Myconia. Gesneracece.

Propagated by seeds or division.
Rampion {Campanula Rapunculus}. Campanulacece.

Seeds, where the plants are to stand.
Ranunculus (Buttercup, Crowfoot). Ranunculacece.

Propagated by seeds and by division.
Raphia. Palmacece.

Seeds.

Raspberry (Rubus strigosus, R. occidenlalis, etc.). Rosace <z.
New varieties are obtained from seeds, which are
washed from the pulp and sown immediately, or strati-
fied. The black-cap varieties are grown mostly from
root-tips, as described on page 36. If the ground is loose
and mellow, the tips will commonly take root themselves,
but upon hard ground the tip may have to be held in place
by a stone or clod. Some strong-growing varieties, like
the Gregg, especially in windy localities, have to be held

RED-BUD RETINOSPORA. 309

down. The red varieties increase rapidly by means of
suckers which spring up from the roots. Better plants
are obtained by means of root cuttings, however, as de-
scribed under Blackberry (see also Fig. 62). Black-caps
may be increased by root cuttings. These cuttings are
best handled in warm coldframes or mild hotbeds, being
planted very early in spring. By the time the weather is
settled, they will be large enough to plant in nursery
rows.

Red-bud. See Cercis.

Red Cedar. See Juniperus.

Reinwardtia, Linum in part, of gardeners. Linacece.

Seeds. Cuttings of strong shoots in heat.
Renanthera. See TErides.

Reseda (Mignonette). Resedacece.

Seeds. For winter flowering, seeds are sown in July.
Also grown from cuttings.

Resurrection Plant. See Anastatica.

Retinospora, species of Chamcecyparis (Japanese Arbor-

Vitae). Conifers.

Grown sometimes from seeds, which should be denuded
of pulp. Layers of tender branches are sometimes em-
ployed. Most commonly grown from cuttings. These
are made from tips of growing or ripened shoots, and are
2 or 3 inches long, with all the leaves left on. They are
usually, from necessity, variously branched. The soft
cuttings are usually taken from forced plants, and are
handled in a close frame or under a bell-glass, with
bottom heat. In commercial establishments the cuttings
of ripe wood are preferred. The following is the practice
of one of the largest nurseries in the country : Cuttings
of the entire season's growth, cut to a heel, are taken in
October and November, and are placed in sand in boxes
in gentle heat, as in a propagating-house. By February
the roots will be formed, and the boxes are then placed
in a cool house where the temperature is about 50°. Early
in spring (about April ist) the boxes are placed outdoors
in coldframes, where they remain until May, until frost is
over. The boxes are then removed from the frames and
are set on boards in a shady place, where they are left
until fall. In the fall — having been nearly a year in the
boxes — the plants are shaken out and are heeled-in in a

310 THE NURSERY LIST.

cellar. The next spring they are planted out in beds,
and during the following summer and winter they are
given some protection from sun and cold. Yews and
arbor-vitaes are handled in the same way.

Retinosporas are often grafted upon retinospora or com-
mon arbor-vitae stocks. This operation is usually per-
formed upon potted plants in winter by the veneer method.

Rhamnus, including Frangula (Buckthorn). Rhamnacece.

The hardy kinds may be increased by means of seeds
or by layers. The stove and greenhouse species may be
multiplied by cuttings of growing parts. Seeds should
be stratified.

Rheum (Rhubarb, Pie-plant, Wine-plant). Polygonacece.

. Increased by seeds and by division. Each division
should contain at least one bud on the crown. Seeds
may be sown where the plants are to stand, but will not
reproduce the varieties, and three years are required for
the plants to mature.

Rhipsalis, including Lepismium, Pfeiffera. Cactacece.

Cuttings, after having been dried for a few days, should
be inserted in coarse gravel or sand. See Cactus.

Rhodanthe. See Helipterum.

Rhododendron, Azalea (Rose-Bay). Ericacecs.

Seeds are largely employed, but they are small and
light, and must be carefully handed. They are sown in
spring in pans or boxes in a soil 01 sandy peat, care being
taken to cover them very lightly and not to dislodge them
when applying water. They are handled in coldframes
or in a cool house, and the young plants must be shaded.
The plants are commonly allowed to remain a year in the
boxes. Low-growing plants are often layered. Cuttings
of growing wood, cut to a heel, are sometimes employed,
being made in summer and handled in a frame, but the
percentage of rooted plants will often be small. Rhodo-
dendrons are extensively grafted, the veneer method be-
ing most used. The operation is performed upon potted
plants in late summer or early fall, or sometimes in a cool
house in early spring. Most of the leaves are allowed to
remain upon the cion. The plants are then placed in
densely shaded cool frames (Fig. 47), and are nearly cov-
ered with sphagnum. Various stocks are employed, but
for severe climates the hardy species, like R. Catazvbiense

RHODOTYPOS ROMNEYA. 311

and R. maximum, are probably best. R. Ponticum is ex-
tensively used in Europe, but it is not hardy enough for the
north, unless worked low and planted deep. See Azalea.

Rhodotypos. Seeds ; or like Kerria.

Rhubarb. See Rheum.

Rhus (Sumach). Anacardiacece .

Seeds, layers, suckers, root cuttings, and cuttings of
green or ripe wood. Suckers are oftenest used.

Rhynchospermum. See Trachelospermum.

Ribes (Currant, Gooseberry). Saxifragacecz.

Seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe, or else
stratified for new varieties. Commonly from ripe cut-
tings. See Currant and Gooseberry.

Richardia (Calla). Aroidetz.

Offsets, which should be removed and potted off when
th'e plants are. at rest. Old crowns may be divided.

Ricinus (Castor Bean). Euphorbiacece .

Seeds, which in the north are started indoors.

Rivina (Hoop Withy). Phytolaccacece.

Readily propagated by seeds ; also by cuttings, inserted
during spring in heat.

Robinia (Locust, Rose Acacia). Lcguminoscz.

Seeds, sown in fall or spring, and which usually germi-
nate better if soaked in hot water previous to sowing.
Also grown from layers and root cuttings. Named varie-
ties are grafted or budded, the common locust stock
(JR. Pseudacacia] being preferred, even for the rose acacia
(R. hispida).

Rocambole (Allium Scorodoprasum}. Liliacese.

"Cloves," or division of the bulb.
Rocket, ornamental sorts. See Hesperis.
Rocket Salad (Eruca sativa}. Cruciferce.

Seeds, sown where the plants are to grow.
Rock-Rose. See Cistus.
Romneya. Papaveracece.

Propagated by seeds in spring.

312 THE NURSERY LIST.

Rosa (Rose). Rosacecc.

New varieties, and sometimes stocks, are grown from
seeds, which are sown as soon as ripe, or kept in the hips
until spring. The hardy kinds are usually sown in well
prepared beds outdoors. Roses are sometimes grown
from layers, and often from root cuttings, after the manner
of blackberries. The common way of propagating roses,
however, is by means of short cuttings of firm or nearly
mature wood, handled under glass, with a mild bottom
heat (65° or 70°). They are commonly made in February
or March from forced plants. The cuttings are made in
various fashions, some persons allowing most of the leaves
to remain, and some preferring to cut most of them off, as
in Fig. 74. They are commonly cut to one-bud lengths,
like Fig. 76. Long cuttings of ripeued wood, handled in a
cool greenhouse or in frames, may also be employed for
the various perpetual and climbing roses. Most growers
feel that the best plants are obtained from cuttings, but
most varieties do well when budded upon congenial and
strong stocks. Budding by the common shield method is
considerably employed, and veneer-grafting is sometimes
used. The stocks are grown either from seeds or cut-
tings. A common stock is the manetti, which is a strong
and hardy type. The eyes should be cut out of the ma-
netti stock below the bud, to avoid sprouting. Because
the manetti suckers badly, various wild briars are much
used in Europe. The bud is often inserted 2 to 4 feet
high, making "standard" roses. These are practically
unknown in this country, except as sparingly imported.
The multiflora rose is also a good stock, especially for
early results. These manetti and multiflora stocks (and
some others) are imported from Europe as yearling cut-
tings. For outdoor propagating, they are "dressed"
much like apple stocks (Fig. 86), and are budded the year
in which they are planted in the nursery row. The gar-
dener may grow his own stocks of these (particularly of
multiflora) from hard-wood cuttings made in spring, and
these cuttings should be fit for working in the following
fall and winter. Home-grown seedlings should be two
years old (unless very strong) before they are budded.
Hybrid perpetual roses make excellent pot plants in a
short time when winter grafted, with dormant wood, upon
multiflora stocks. A stock somewhat used about Boston
for some of the hybrid perpetuals, with excellent results,
is Rosa Watsoniana, a Japanese species. This is a slen-
der stock, and is grafted, not budded. "Worked" roses

ROSEMARY SACALINE. 313

Rosa, concluded.

are in greater favor in Europe than in this country, and
our various native roses have, therefore, received little
attention as stocks. The common sweet briar of the road-
sides ( which is an introduced species) is sometimes used
for stocks. R. Wichuriana is easily propagated by long
cuttings of year-old wood in the open air.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis] . Labiates.
Seeds and division.

Rubber-plant. See Ficus (F. elastica).

Rubus ( Bramble ) . Rosacecz.

Seeds, which should be stiatified or sown as soon as
ripe. Root cuttings and suckers are mostly employed.
The seeds of R. deliciosus require two years for germina-
tion. See Blackberry, Dewberry, Raspberry, Wineberry.

Rudbeckia, including Lepachys, Obeliscaria (Cone Flower).

Composite?.
Propagated by seeds or division.

Rue. See Ruta.

Ruscus (Butcher's Broom, Alexandrian Laurel). Liliacece.
Root suckers. Also seeds, when obtainable.

Rush. See Juncus.

Russelia. Scrophulariacecz :

Seeds. Green cuttings under glass is the common
method.

Ruta (Herb of Grace, Rue). Rutacecz.

Propagated by seeds, division and cuttings. Meadow
Rue, see Thalictrum.

Sabal (Palmetto). Palmacece.

Propagated by seeds, and by suckers, which should be
taken when about one foot long. If they have no roots
they must be carefully handled.

Sabbatia (American Centaury). Gentianacece.

May be raised from seeds, which should be sown thinly
in pans, or in a shady border. Division of old plants.
Sacaline, or Saghalin (Polygonmn Sachalinense}. Poly-

gonacecz.

Division of the roots (/. e., root cuttings) into small
pieces.

314 THE NURSERY LIST*.

Saffron (Carthamu* tinctorius}. Composite.

Propagated by seeds, in open air in spring. Saffron if
also Crocus sativus. See Crocus.

Sage (Salvia officinalis). Labiate.

Seeds, sown in spring where the plants are to stand.
Also by division, but seeds give better plants. Sage plan-
tations should be renewed every two or three years.
Good plants may be grown from cuttings. See Salvia.

Sage Palm. See Cycas.
Saintfoin. See Onobrychis.
Saint John's Bread. See Carob.

Saintpaulia. Gesneracecc.

Grown easily from seeds, sown on the surface. Also
from leaf cuttings. Handled like Sinningia, except that it
is not tuber-bearing.

Salisburia. See Ginkgo.

Salix (Willow, Osier, Sallow). Salicacecc.

All the willows grow readily from cuttings of ripe wood
of almost any age. The low and weeping varieties are
top-worked upon any common upright stocks. Kilmar-
nock (weeping form of Salix Caprea\ Rosmarinifolia
(S. incana\, and other named varieties are worked upon
cutting-grown stocks of S. Caprea.

Salpiglossis. Scropkulariacea.

Propagated by seeds«in open air, or they may be started
under glass.

Salsify ( Tragopogon porrifolius). Composite.

Seeds, sown in spring where the plants are to remain.

Salvia, including Sclarea (Sage). Labiate.

May be increased by seeds, sown thinly and placed in a
little warmth. Also by cuttings ; these will root readily in
heat, if they are rather soft and in a growing state. See
Sage.

Sambucus (Elder). Caprifoliacecc.

Seeds, handled like those of raspberries and black-
berries. Named kinds are grown from cuttings of mature
wood, and by layers.

SANDORICUM SAVOY. 315

Sanrtoricum (Sandal-tree). Meliacece.

Seeds. Cuttings, in sand under glass, in heat.

Sanguinaria (Blood-root, Red Puccoon). Papaveracea.

Propagated by means of seeds, or (more commonly)
by division of the rootstocks.

Sanguisorba. See Poterium.

Sansevieria, Salmia (Bowstring Hemp). Hczmodoracete.

Young plants are obtained from suckers.
Sapodilla, or Sapodilla Plum. See Sapota.

Saponaria, including Vaccaria (Bouncing Bet, Fullers' Herb,
Soap wort). Caryophyllacecz.

Increased by seeds and by division. The hardy annual
and biennial kinds may be simply sown in the open
border.

Sapota, Achras. Sapotacecz.

Seeds and cuttings. In tropical countries the sapodilla
(S. Achras} is raised entirely from seeds.

Sarracenia (Indian Cup, Pitcher Plant, Side-saddle Flower,
Trumpet Leaf). Sar rac enlace ce .

Increased by dividing the crowns. Sometimes by
seeds, sown in moss in a cool frame.

Sassafras. Lauracece.

Increased by seeds, suckers and root cuttings.

Satyrium. Orchidacefs.

Division of the plants, as new growth is commencing.
See also under Orchids.

Sauromatum. Aroidece.
Increased by offsets.
Savin. See Juniperus.
Savory (Satureia horlensis, S. montana}. Labiates.

Seeds, sown where the plants are to remain ; or the
winter savory (S. montana), which is a perennial ; also by
division.

Savoy. See Cabbage.

316 THE NURSERY LIST.

Saxifraga (Saxifrage, Rockfoil). Saxifragacecz.

Seeds, divisions, and in some species (as S. sarmentosa,
the "strawberry geranium ") by runners.

Scabiosa (Mourning Bride, Pin-cushion Flower). Dipsacece.
Seeds, usually sown in the open, and sometimes by
division.

Scaevola. Goodenovietz.

Seeds. Cuttings should be inserted in a compost of
peat and sand, under glass.

Schinus (Pepper-tree, of California). Anacardiacecz .

Propagated by seeds. Cuttings, in greenhouses.
Schismatoglottis. Aroidece.

Increased by division.

Schizandra. Magnoliacece.

Seeds, when procurable. Propagation is effected by
layers ; by ripened cuttings, which should be inserted in
sand under glass.

Schizanthus (Butterfly, or Fringe Flower). Solanacetz :

The half-hardy kinds are increased by seeds sown in a
little heat in spring. The seed of the hardy sorts may be
sown in the open ground in early spring.

Schizostylis. Iridacece.

Propagated by seeds and by division.

Sciadophyllum. Araliacea.

Seeds. Cuttings, in sand under glass, in moderate heat.

Sciadopitys (Umbrella Pine). Coniferce.

Slowly propagated by imported seeds. But cuttings of
the half-ripened shoots, taken off in summer and inserted
in sand, in heat, root readily.

Scilla (Squill, Wild Hyacinth). Liliace&.

Slowly increased by seeds, but usually by bulbels.
Scirpus Tubernsemontanus of florists, is Juncus, which see.
Scolopendrium. See Ferns.
Scorzonera (Black Salsify). Composite.

Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand.

SCOTCH BROOM — SERVICE-BERRY. 317

Scotch Broom. See Cytisus.

Screw Pine. See Pandanus.

Seaforthia. See Ptychosperma.

Sea-kale (Crambe maritima). Crucifera.

Seeds, sown without being shelled, usually in a seed-
bed. When the young plants have made three or four
leaves, they should be removed to permanent quarters.
Seedlings should furnish crops in three years. By root-
cuttings, four or five inches long, taken from well estab-
lished plants. These should give plants strong enough
for cutting in two years.

Seaside Grape. See Coccoloba.
Sechium (Choko). Cucurbitacece .

Seeds. Root-tubers.
Sedge. See Carex.
Sedum (Orpine, Stonecrop). Crassulacecz.

Propagation may be effected by seeds, by division of
the tufts, by cuttings of stems or leaves in spring.

Selaginella. Lycopodiacete.

Spores, as for Ferns (which see). Short cuttings, in-
serted in early spring, in pots or pans.

Sempervivum (House Leek). Crassulacece .

Readily increased by seeds, or by the young plants
which appear around the old one at the base.

Senecio, including Cacalia, Farfugium, Jacobaea, Ligularia

(Grounsel, Ragweed). Composite :
The annuals are propagated by seeds. Others may be
increased by seeds, by division, or by cuttings of both the
roots and shoots. German Ivy (Senecio scandens} is
easily multiplied by cuttings of the running shoots.

Sensitive Plant. See Mimosa.

Sequoia, Wellingtonia (Redwood). Conifercz.

Seeds, which must be handled in a frame or half-shady

place. Layers, and cuttings handled like those of retino-

spora and yew.

Sericographis. See Justicia.
Service-berry. See Amelanchier.

3l8 THE NURSERY LIST.

Sesamum (Bene). Pedalinetz.

Seeds, sown under glass, or in the south in the open
border.

Sesbania (Pea-tree). Leguminosa.

Seeds for annual species ; the shrubby kinds by cuttings
of the half-ripened shoots under glass, in heat.

Shad-bush. See Amelanchier.

Shaddock. See Pomelo.

Shallot (Allium Ascalonicum}. Liliacea.

Grown from "cloves," which are formed by the break-
ing up of the main bulb.

Shell-bark Hickory (Shag-bark). See Hicoria.
Shepherdia (Buffalo Berry). El&agnacecs.

Increased by seeds sown in the fall or stratified until
spring.

Sibbaldia. See Potentilla.

Siberian Pea-tree. See Caragana.

Side-saddle Flower. See Sarracenia.

Silene (Campion, Catchfly). Caryophyllacete.
By seeds, division, and cuttings.

Silk-cotton Tree. See Bombax.

Silphium (Rosin-plant, Compass-plant). Composite.
Propagated by seeds and by division.

Silver Bell. See Halesia.

Sinningia (Gloxinia..) Gesnerace<z.

Seeds should be sown the latter part of winter, in well-
drained pots or small pans of finely sifted soil, of peat,
leaf-mold and sand in about equal proportions. The
seeds should be sown thinly and covered slightly, then
carefully watered, and placed in a temperature of about
70° and kept shaded. Cuttings of the shoots may be
taken when the old tubers are starting in spring, and
placed in a close propagating frame Leaf cuttings, with
a small portion of the petiole attached, give excellent
results, especially when the leaves are firm and nearly
matured. Leaf cuttings are made after the fashion of Fig
81. A little tuber forms on the end of the leaf-stalk, and

SISYRINCHIUM SOLDANELLA. 319

this is removed and handled like any small tuber. Also
grafted on tubers (see page 129).

Sisyrinchium (Blue-eyed Grass, Satin Flower). Iridacecz.
It may be increased in spring by seeds or by division.
Skimmia. Rutacece.

Seeds, in a frame. Also by layers, and by firm cuttings
in gentle heat.

Skirret 'Slum Sisarum). Umbellifercz.

Seeds, offsets, or division.
Slipperwort. See Campanula and Calceolaria.
Smilacina (False Solomon's Seal). Liliacetz.

Seeds. Division of roots.
Smilax (Green-Briar, American China Root). Liliacecz.

Young plants are obtained by seeds, by layers, and by
division of the root.

For the "Smilax" or Boston-vine of conservatories,
see Myrsiphyllum.

Snapdragon. See Antirrhinum.

Snowball. See Viburnum.

Snowberry. See Symphoricarpus and Chiococc<a.

Snowdrop. See Galanthus.

Snowflakc. See Leucoium.

Soapwort. See Saponaria.

Solandra. Solanacecz.

Increased by seeds sown in spring ; by cuttings, inserted
in mold or tan. If small flowering plants are desired, the
cuttings should be taken from flowering shoots.

Solanum (Nightshade). Solanacea.

The annuals, and most of the other species, are raised
from seeds. The tuberous kinds may be- increased by
tubers, or division of them. The stove and greenhouse
shrubby plants may be propagated by cuttings, inserted
when young in a warm frame.

Soldanella. Primulacece .

Increased by seeds and by division.

320 THE NURSERY LIST.

Solea. See lonidium.

Solidago (Golden Rod). Composite?.

Seeds, sown in fall or spring, and by division.
Solomon's Seal. See Polygonatum.
Sonerila. Melastomacecz.

Propagated by seeds ; or by cuttings, which should be
inserted singly in small pots during spring and placed in
a frame in a propagating house.

Sophora. Leguminosa.

Seeds, layers and cuttings of either ripened or growing
wood. The named varieties are grafted upon common
stocks.

Sorghum. Gramineee.

Usually by seeds. Sometimes by cuttings, as in Sugar
Cane, which see.

Sorrel {Rumex, several species). Polygonacefp.

Seeds and division.
Sorrel-tree. See Oxydendrum.
Sour Gum. See Nyssa.
Spanish Bayonet. See Yucca.
Sparaxis. Iridacece.

Usually by offsets. Seeds.
Sparmannia. Tiliace(Z.

Propagated by cuttings of half-ripened wood in spring.
Spathiphyllum, including Amomophyllum. Aroidecz.

Propagated sometimes by seeds sown in heat, but
mostly by division of the rootstocks.

Spearmint (Mentha viridis}. Labiates.

Commonly grown from cuttings of the creeping root-
stocks.

Speedwell. See Veronica.

Sphaeralcea (Globe Mallow). Malvacetp.

Seeds ; by cuttings of the young growth under glass, and
kept shaded until rooted.

Spice-bush. See Lindera.

SPIDERWORT STAPHYLEA. 321

Spiderwort. See Tradescantia.

Spinage (Spinacia oleracea}. Chenopodiacece.

Seeds, sown usually where the crop is to stand, either
in fall or spring.

Spiraea (Spirea, Meadow-Sweet). Rosacece.

Seeds, sown as soon as ripe or stratified until spring.
Cpmmonly increased by cuttings, either of mature or
green wood. Green cuttings usually make the best plants.
These are made in summer and handled in frames. Some
sorts, as 6*. aricsfolia^ S. opulifolia and varieties (Nine-
bark, now known as Neillia or Physocarpus opulifolia}
and 5. prunifolia, are usually grown from layers put
down in spring. The herbaceous kinds are often in-
creased by division. Plants forced in winter give excel-
lent cutting -wood, which should be taken when the
growth is completed.

Spondias (Hog Plum, Otaheite Apple or Plum). Ana-

cardiacece.

Seeds ; by large cuttings of growing wood, which
should be inserted in sand or mold, in heat.

Spruce. See Picea and Abies.

Squash (Cuctirbita, three species). Cucurbitacece '.

Seeds, when the weather becomes warm.
Squill. See Scilla.

Stachys, Betonica, Galeopsis (Hedge Nettle, Woundwort).

Labiate?.

Seeds, divisions, or cuttings. Some species (as the
Crosnes, Chorogi, or "5". tuberifera " of recent introduc-
tion) are increased by subterranean tubers.

Staff-tree. See Celastrus.

Stanhopea. Orchidacea.

Division of the old roots. See also under Orchids.
Stapelia (Carrion Flower). Asclepiadacetz.
Seeds ; commonly by cuttings in heat.
Staphylea (Bladder-nut). Sapindacecz.

Seeds, sown as soon as ripe or stratified until spring.
By suckers, layers, and cuttings of roots or of mature
wood.

322 THE NURSERY LIST.

Star Apple. See Chrysophyllum.

Star of Bethlehem. See Ornithogalum.

Statice (Sea Lavender, See Pink). Plumbaginacea :

The annuals and biennials may be increased by seeds
sown in early spring, in a frame. The perennials by seeds,
or by carefully made divisions. Greenhouse species should
be propagated by cuttings inserted in small single pots
during early spring, and placed under glass.

Staurostigma. Aroidece.

Seeds sown in bottom heat ; or by division of the tubers.
Stephanotis, Jasminanthes. Asdepiadacea.

Propagated by seeds ; also by cuttings of the previous
year's growth inserted singly in pots, in spring, and placed
in a close frame with a temperature of 60°.

Sterculia. Sterculiacece.

Seeds. Increased by ripened cuttings, which should be
taken with the leaves on, and placed under glass. Those
of the stove species should be placed in a moist heat.

Stevia. See Piqueria.
Stigmaphyllon. Malpighiacece .

Seeds. Cuttings of ripened wood, inserted in sandy soil
under glass, in heat.

Stillingia. Euphorbiacece.

Easily propagated by imported seeds.
Stock. See Matthiola.
Stokesia. Composite?.

Propagation by seeds and by division.
Stonecrop. See Sedum.

Strawberry (Fragaria}. Rosacetz*

New sorts are grown from seeds, which are usually
sown as soon as ripe ; or they may be kept until the fol- ,
lowing spring, either dry or in stratification. Varieties are
commonly increased by offsets, or plants formed at the
joints of runners. These runners appear after the fruit is
off. If strong plants are desired, the runner should be
headed-in, and only one plant allowed to form on each
runner. The ground should be soft and somewhat moist,
to enable the young plants to obtain a foothold. Plants

STRAWBERRY GERANIUM STUARTIA. 3^3

strong enough for setting are obtained in August and Sep-
tember of the same year in which they start. Ordinarily,
the runners will take root without artificial aid; but in
hard soils, or with new or scarce varieties, the joints are
sometimes held down with a pebble or bit of earth. New
varieties are often propagated throughout the season from
plants which are highly cultivated, and which are not
allowed to fruit. Very strong plants are obtained by
growing them in pots. A 3-inch pot is sunk below the
runner, and the joint is held upon it by a stone or clod.
The runner is then pinched off, to prevent further growth,
and to throw all its energy into the one plant. The pot
should be filled with soft, rich earth. Shouldered pots are
best, because they can be raised more easily than others,
by catching the spade or trowel under the shoulder. The
plants will fill the pots in three or four weeks, if the
weather is favorable. Old tin fruit cans, which have been
heated to remove the bottoms, can also be used.

Cuttings of the tips of runners are sometimes made and
handled in a frame, as an additional means of rapidly
increasing new kinds. These cuttings are really the cast-
away tips left from the headings-in or checking of the
runners.

Strawberry Geranium. See Saxifraga.
Strawberry Tree. See Arbutus.

Strelitzia (Bird of Paradise Flower, Bird's-tongue Flower).

Scitaminea.

Increased by seeds, which should be sown in light soil,
and the pots plunged in moist bottom heat. Also in-
creased by suckers and by division of the old plants.

Streptocarpus (Cape Primrose). Gesneracece.
Readily propagated by seeds or by division.

Strobilantb.es, including Goldfussia (Cone Head). Acan-

thacece.
Seeds. Cuttings, in any light soil under glass, in heat.

Struthiola. Thymel<zace<z.

Seeds, when obtainable. Cuttings in sand under a
frame.
Stuartia. Ternstrcemiaceez .

May be increased by seeds and layers, or by means of
ripened cuttings, inserted in sand under a hand-glass.
Seeds are oftenest used, where obtainable.

324 THE NURSERY LIST.

Styrax (Storax). Styracacece.

Seeds, which must be stratified, or else sown as soon as
ripe. They usually lie dormant the first year. Also by
layers and cuttings of green wood. Can be grafted upon
other storaxes, or upon Halesia tetraptera.

Sugar Cane (Saccharwn officinarum} . Graminece.

Cuttings of the stems. The cuttings should possess a
node or joint which bears one or more good buds.
These cuttings are planted directly in the field, and the
plants will reach maturity in two or three months. Propa-
gation by seeds has been supposed to be impossible, but
recent experiments at Kew indicate that it can be done.

Sumach. See Rhus.

Sundew. See Drosera.

Sunflower. See Helianthus.

Sun Rose. See Helianthemum.

Swainsona. Leguminosce.

Seeds. Green cuttings under cover.

Swan River Daisy. See Brachycome.

Sweet Brier. See Rosa.

Sweet Cicely. See Myrrhis.

Sweet Pea. See Lathyrus.

Sweet Potato (Ipomcea Batatas}. Convolvulacece.

Sweet potato plants are grown in hotbeds, coldframes
or forcing houses (depending upon the latitude) from
sound tubers of medium size. The tuber is laid upon a
sandy or other loose bed, and is then covered with sand
or sandy loam to a depth of i or 2 inches. Sometimes,
to guard against rot, the tubers are not covered until
the sprouts begin to appear. The tubers may be laid
thickly upon the bed, but they are less apt to rot if the>
do not touch each other. Sometimes the tubers are cut
in two lengthwise, the cut surface being placed down, in
order to place all the plant-giving surface uppermost. In
four or five weeks the young plants — 3 to 5 inches high —
are pulled off and planted, and others soon arise to take
their places. One hand should be held firmly upon the
soil over the tuber, while the sprout is pulled off, to keep it
in place. Three or four crops of sprouts may be obtained
from each tuber.

SWEET WILLIAM TAMARINDUS. 325

Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus}. Caryophyllacece.

Seeds, sown indoors or in the border. Division of the
plants. Best results are obtained by starting new seed-
lings every other year. See Dianthus.

Sycamore. See Platanus.

Symphoricarpus (Waxberry, St. Peter's Wort, Snowberry-

tree, Indian Currant). Caprifoliacece.
Seeds, handled like those of blackberries. Also by
suckers and cuttings.

Symphytum (Comfrey). Borraginacece.

May be increased by seeds and by division. Also eas-
ily by root cuttings.

Symplocos, including Hopea. Styracacece.
Seeds. Cuttings, in sand under glass.

Syringa (Lilac). Oleacece.

New varieties and stocks are grown from seeds, which
are usually stratified until spring. Green cuttings, han-
dled in frames in summer, are largely used. Cuttings of
mature wood will grow ; also cuttings of the roots. Lay-
ers and suckers are often employed. Varieties are exten-
sively grafted or budded upon privet (Ligustrum) and
common lilacs. Flute-budding is occasionally employed.
Lilacs will grow for a time when worked upon the ash.
Grafting succeeds well when performed in the open air.

Tabernaemontana. Apocynacece.

Increased by green cuttings, under glass, in moist heat.

Tacca, Ataccia. Taccacecz.

Seeds, and division of the roots.

Tacsonia. See Passiflora.

Tagetes (Marigold). Composites.

Seeds, sown either indoors or out.
Tamarack. See Larix.

Tamarindus (Tamarind). Leguminosce \

Young plants may be obtained from seeds sown in a
hotbed, or outdoors in tropical countries. Cuttings, in
sand under glass., in heat.

326 THE NURSERY LIST.

Tamarix, Tamarisk. Tamariscinete .

Increased by ripe cuttings under glass, the greenhouse
kinds in heat.

Tansy ( Tanacetum vulgare}. Composite.

Seeds and division.
Taro. Root tubers. See Caladium.
Tarragon (Artemisia Dracuncidus} . Composites.

A perennial herb, multiplied chiefly by division. Seeds
may be used, if fresh.

Taxodium, Glyptostrobus (Bald Cypress). Coniferce.

Seeds are usually employed. Layers. Cuttings of

¥)ung wood in wet sand, or even water, under cover,
he varieties of glyptostrobus may be veneer-grafted in
August or September on T. distichum.

Taxus (Yew). Coniferce.

Seeds, sown when gathered or else stratified. Layers.
Cuttings of green wood under glass in summer, or of ma-
ture wood, as recommended for retinospora. The named
varieties are veneer-grafted in August or early fall upon
the upright kinds.

Tecoma (Trumpet-Creeper). Bignoniacece.

Seeds, layers, cuttings of firm shoots, but most com-
monly by root cuttings.

Terminalia (Tropical Almond). Combretacetz.

Seeds ; also by cuttings of green wood under glass.
Ternstroemia. Ternstrcemiacece .

Seeds. Cuttings of the half-ripened shoots under glass,
in bottom heat.

Testudinaria (Elephant's Foot). Dioscoreacece.

Grown from imported roots or seeds.
Teucrium (Germander). Labiates.

Seeds, division, and the shrubby kinds by cuttings
under cover.

Thalictrum (Meadow Rue). Ranunculacecs.

Propagated by seeds, and division. The varieties by-
cuttings.

Thea. See Camellia.

THEOBROMA TIGRIDIA. 327

Theobroma (Cacao, Chocolate-tree). Sterculiacece .

Propagated by ripened cuttings, which should be placed
in sand under glass, in heat.

Thrift. See Armeria.
Thrinax. Palmacea-.

Seeds in heat.
Thunbergia. Acanthacece.

Seeds. Also cuttings of firm wood in a frame, for per-
ennials.

Thunia. Orchidacece.

As the form of the pseudo-bulbs suggests, this genus is
easily propagated by cuttings. These are made about 6
inches long and inserted in pots of sand. After standing
in an ordinary propagating frame or moist stove for a
short time, young growths will appear at the nodes.
When large enough they are taken up and potted in ordi-
nary compost. Two years, at least, are needed for them
to attain to flowering size, but this is the best method
where a large number of plants are wanted. See also
under Orchids.

Thuya, including Biota ( Arbor- Vitae, White Cedar errone-
ously). Conifers.

Seeds, which should be gathered as soon as ripe (in
the fall) and stratified or sown at once. Shade the seed-
lings the first year. Layers. Cuttings of green shoots in
summer in a cool frame. Cuttings of ripe wood, as rec-
ommended for retinospora. The named varieties are
often grafted on potted common stocks in winter or early
fall.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris]. Labiates.
Seeds and division.

Thyrsacanthus (Thyrse Flower). Acanihacece.

Seeds ; cuttings made in spring, and placed in a close,
warm frame.

Tiarella. Saxifragacea.
Seeds and division.

Tigridia (Tiger Flower). Iridacea.

May be increased by seeds, but generally by offsets.

328 THE NURSERY LIST.

Tilia (Bass wood, Linden, Lime-tree). Tiliacece.

Stocks are grown from stratified seeds. Layers may be
made, and cuttings may be employed, but' the named
sorts are usually grafted on strong common stocks.
Mound-layering is sometimes practiced.

Tillandsia. Bromeliacece \

May be increased by seeds, and by suckers which
should be allowed to grow large before being detached
from the parent, and should then be inserted singly in
pots, in a compost of loam, peat, and leaf-mold. Keep
moderately moist and well shaded. T. usneoides is the
"Spanish Moss" of the south ; rarely propagated, but
may be grown from seeds or division of the moss.

Tobacco. See Nicotiana.

Tomato (Lycopersicum esculentum}. Solanacece.

Seeds, usually started under glass. Cuttings of growing
shoots, rooted under glass, like fuchsias.

Torenia. Scrophulariacece.

Seeds. Cuttings, in a warm frame
Torrcya. Conifer <z.

Increased the same as Thuya and Retinospora.
Trachelium (Throatwort). Campanulacece.

Seeds and cuttings.
Trachelospermum, Rhynchospermum. Apocynacece.

Seeds. Firm cuttings, in a frame.

Trachycarpus. Palmacecz.
Seeds and suckers.

Tradescantia. Commelinacece.

Usually by cuttings ; also by seeds and division. See
Zebrina.

Trailing Arbutus. See Epigaea.
Trapa (Water Caltrops). Onagracea.

Seeds.
Tree of Heaven. See Ailanthus.

Trichopilia. Orchidacecz.

Division of the plants. See also under Orchids.

TRICHOSANTHES — TYD^A. 329

Tiichosanthes (Snake Gourd). Cucurbitacece.
Seeds, either indoors or out.

Tricyrtis. Liliacece.

Seeds rarely. Offsets and division.

Trillium (Birthwort, Wake-Robin). Liliaceez.
Propagated by seeds and by division.

Triteleia (Triplet Lily). Liliacece.

Propagated by seeds and by offsets.
Tritoma. See Kniphofia.

Tritonia, including Montbretia. Iridacecz.

Young plants are raised from seeds ; but generally in-
creased by division.

Trollius (Globe Flower, Globe Ranunculus). Ranunculacecz.

Seeds. Divisions in early autumn or spring. The
seeds should be sown fresh, or a long time will be
required for germination.

Tropseolum (Nasturtium, Canary-bird Flower). Geraniacece.

Seeds, started indoors or in the garden. Tuberiferous
species by tubers or division of roots. Perennials some-
times by cuttings in a frame.

Trumpet Creeper. See Tecoma.
Tuberose. See Polianthes.

Tulipa (Tulip). Liliacece.

Seeds may be sown in boxes of light sandy soil, in late
winter, and placed in a coldframe. The next season the
young bulbs should be planted in a prepared bed outside.
Bulbels may be detached from established bulbs when
they are lifted, and grown by themselves. This is the
usual method.

Tulip-tree. See Liriodendron.
Tupelo-tree. See Nyssa.
Turnip (Brassica}. Crucifercz.

Seeds, where the plants are to remain.
Tydsea. As for Gesnera.

33° THE NURSERY LIST.

Typha (Bullrush, Cat-Tail, Reed Mace). Typhacea.

Propagation may be effected by seeds sown in a pot
plunged in water nearly to the level of the soil ; or by
division.

Ulex (Furze, Gorse, Whin). Leguminoscz.
Propagated by seeds or by cuttings.

Ulmus (Elm). Urticacecz.

Usually propagated by seeds. The seeds of most eims
germinate the year they mature (they ripen in spring), and
they may be sown at once. The slippery elm (U. fulva],
however, generally germinates the following year, and the
seeds should be stratified. Layers are sometimes made,
and suckers may be taken. The varieties are grafted on
common stocks.

Umbrella-plant. See Cyperus.
Unicorn Plant. See Martynia.
Uvularia, including Oakesia (Bellwort). Liliacea.
Seeds ; usually by division.

Vaccinium (Swamp Huckleberry, Whortleberry, Blueberry,

Billberry, Cranberry). Ericacecz.

Seeds, layers, root cuttings, and divisions of the old
plants. Some species by hard-wood cuttings, for which
see Cranberry. Huckleberry seeds are small and some-
what difficult to grow. The seeds should be washed from
the fruits and stored in sand in a cool place until late in
winter. They are then sown in pans or flats on the sur-
face of a soil made of equal parts sand and loam. Cover
with fine sphagnum and keep in a cool house or frame,
always keeping the seeds moist. Seeds treated in this
way may be expected to germinate in a month or two,
although they may lie dormant a year. Transplant fre-
quently and keep shaded until large enough to shift for
themselves. Layers should be tongued. Cuttings, 2 or
3 inches long, of the best roots, made in fall and placed in
mild bottom heat in early spring, often give fair satisfac-
tion. Native plants can be obtained from the woods and
fields which will give good satisfaction if small specimens
are taken. Gaylussacias are handled in the same way as
vacciniums.

Valeriana (Valerian). Valerianacece .
Seeds and divisions.

VALLOTA VETCH. 331

Vallota. Amaryllidaeece.

Bulbels, which usually appear above the surface of the
pot. Division of the bulbs.

Vanda Orchidacecz.

The majority are propagated in the same way as de-
scribed for aerides, but two species — V. teres and V.
Hookeri — both tall and quick growing, may be cut into
lengths of a few inches. The practice of the most suc-
cessful cultivators is to start them every year as cuttings
about a foot long. See also under Orchids.

Vanilla. Orchidacecz .

Division and cuttings. The vanilla of commerce ( V.
planifolia] is propagated from cuttings, which are planted
at the base of trees, upon which the plant climbs. See
also under Orchids.

Vegetable Oyster. See Salsify.
Veitchia. Palmacece.
Seeds.

Veratrum (False or White Hellebore). Liliace<z.

Young plants are obtained by seeds or by division.

Verbascum (Mullein). Scrophulariacea.

All are raised from seeds sown in any ordinary soil, ex-
cept V. nigrum and V. pinnatifidum, which should be
increased by division and cuttings respectively.

Verbena (Vervain). Verbenacece \

Seeds ; also by cuttings of vigorous shoots. Some spe-
cies by division.

Vernonia (Ironweed). Composites.

May be raised from seeds, division or cuttings, depend-
ing on the character of the plant.

Veronica (Speedwell). Scrophulariacecz.

Seeds and division. Shrubby sorts often by cuttings.
Vesicaria (Bladder-pod). Cruciferce.

Annuals by seeds ; perennials by division.
Vetch (Vicia sativa, etc.). Leguminosa.

By seeds, in open air.

332 THE NURSERY LIST.

Viburnum. Caprifoliacece.

Seeds, which should be stratified. They usually remain
dormant the first year. Layers usually make the best
plants. Green cuttings made in summer and handled in
frames give excellent results. V. tomentosum ( V. plica-
turn of nurseries) is propagated by cuttings. Ripe cut-
tings are sometimes used for the soft-wooded species.
The snowball or guelder-rose ( V. Opulus] is rapidly in-
creased by layers. It is also a good stock for closely re-
lated species. V. Lantana and V, dentata are good stocks
on which varieties difficult to handle can be worked by
the veneer-graft during winter.

Victoria (Royal Water Lily, Water Platter). Nymphczacecz.
The seeds should be kept in vessels of water until time
for sowing, when they may be placed in loamy soil, and
the pot submerged a couple of inches in water, the tem-
perature of which should not be allowed to fall below °85.
The tank should be in a light position near the glass.
Annual.

Vigna. Leguminoscz .

Seeds. The cow-pea or black-pea ( Vigna Sinensis] by
seeds when danger of frost is past.

Vinca (Periwinkle, Running Myrtle). Apocynacece.

Increased by seeds, and (chiefly) by division. V. rosea
annually by seeds.

Viola (Violet, Heartsease, Pansy). Violacecz.

The named violets are increased by cuttings made in a
cool house from vigorous shoots. Common species by
seeds, runners, and division of the plants. Pansies are
usually grown from seeds, but named varieties may be
multiplied late in the season from cuttings or from layers.

Virgilia. See Cladrastis.

Virginia Creeper. See Ampelopsis.

Virgin's Bower. See Clematis.

Viscum (Mistletoe). Loranthacecz.

Raised from seed, which should be inserted in a notch
cut in the bark or under side of a branch of the host.
Avoid crushing the seed, and have the embryo directed
towards the trunk. To prevent birds from disturbing the
seeds after being placed in position, cover with light-col-

VITEX WAX-FLOWER. 333

ored cloth. The seed may also be fastened to a smooth
part of the tree by the sticky substance surrounding it,
but more seed is lost. Our native phoradendron can be
handled in the same way.
Vitex (Chaste-tree). Verbenacea.

Seeds. Suckers. Layers. Cuttings of green or ri-
pened wood.

Vitis. See Grape.

Vochysia, Cucullaria. Vochysiacecz.

Seeds ; by ripened cuttings in sand under glass, in heat.
Volkameria. See Clerodendron.
Waahoo. See Euonymus.
Wahlenbergia. See Platycodon.
Waldsteinia. Rosacece.

May be multiplied by seeds, or by division.
Wallflower ( Cheiranthtis Cheiri}. Crucifercz.

Propagated by seeds ; the plants, however, will not
flower at the north until the second season ; protection of
a frame is required.

Wallichia, Wrightia. Palmacece.

May be increased by seeds ; or by suckers, which
should be gradually separated so as to allow them to
make sufficient roots before they are quite detached.

Walnut. See Juglans.

Wandering Jew. See Zebrina.

Water-Cress {Nasturtium officinal?) . Cruciferce,

Cuttings of the young stems, which root in mud with
great readiness. Seeds scattered in the water or mud.

Water-lily. See Nymphaea, Nelumbo and Victoria.

Water-melon (Citrullus vulgaris}. Cucurbitacece .

Seeds, usually sown where the plants are to remain,
after the weather is warm and settled.

Watsonia (Bugle Lily). Iridacecz.

The plants are multiplied by seeds or by offsets.

Wax-flower. See Hoya.

334 THE NURSERY LIST.

Weigela. See Diervilla.
Wellingtonia. See Sequoia.
Whin. See Ulex and Cytisus.
White Cedar. See Chamaecyparis and Thuya.
White- wood. See Liriodendron and Tilia.
Whitlavia. See Phacelia.

Whortleberry, Huckleberry (Gaylussaciaresinosa}. Ericaeetz.
Propagated by seeds, which should be stratified anq
otherwise carefully handled. See also Vaccinium.

Willow. See Salix.
Wind-flower. See Anemone.

Windsor, Broad or Horse Bean ( Vicia Faba]. Leguminosce.
Propagated by seeds in open air after the soil is fairly
warm.

Wineberry (Rubus phcenicolasius}. Rosaces.

Increases readily by "tips," the same as the black rasp-
berry ; also by root cuttings.

Winter Aconite. See Eranthis.

Winter Cress. See Barbarea.

Wistaria. Leguminosa.

Readily grown from seeds. Sometimes by division.
Layers. Cuttings of ripened wood, usually handled under
glass. The common purple and white kinds are largely
grown from root cuttings, an inch or two long, placed in
bottom heat, when they will start in four or five weeks.
Many of the fancy kinds, especially when wood is scarce,
are root- or crown-grafted upon W. Sinensis.

Witch-hazel See Hamamelis.

Woodbine. A name properly belonging to climbing Loni-
ceras, but often applied to Ampelopsis, both of which see.

Wormwood, Southern Wood (Artemisia Absinthium}.

Composites.
Seeds and division.
Wrightia, Balfouria (Palay, or Ivory-tree). Apocynacetz.

Seeds ; usually by cuttings, which root readily in sand
in heat.

XANTHOCERAS ZEBRA-GRASS. 335

Xanthoceras. Sapindacea :

Usually multiplied by seeds ; root cuttings are some-
times used.
Xanthorrhiza, Zanthorhiza. Ranunculacetz.

Seeds and suckers.
Xanthorrhcea (Black Boy, Grass-tree). Juncacetz.

Seeds ; but usually by offsets.
Xanthosoma, including Acontias. Aroideez.

May be increased by cutting up the stem or rootstock
into small pieces and planting these in light soil, or cocoa
fiber, in bottom heat. After a stem has been cut off a
number of shoots are developed, which can be treated as
cuttings.

Xcrophyllum. Liliacece.

May be propagated by seeds and by division.
Xiphion. See Iris.
Xylophylla. See Phyllanthus.
Yam. See Dioscorea.
Yellow-wood. See Cladrastis.
Yew. See Taxus.
Yucca (Adam's Needle, Bear's Grass, Spanish Bayonet).

Liliacecz.

Increased by seeds ; and by divisions, which may be
planted in the open ground, or by pieces of thick, fleshy
roots, cut into lengths, and inserted in sandy soil, in heat.

Yulan. See Magnolia.
Zamia. Cycadacece.

Division of the crowns when possible ; or by seeds and

suckers. The plants are oftenest imported directly from

the tropics. See Cycas.

Zanthorhiza. See Xanthorrhiza.

Zanthoxylum (Prickly Ash). Rutacetz.

Seeds, suckers, but more often by root cuttings.

Zea. See Maize.
Zebra-grass. See Miscanthus.

336 THE NURSERY LIST.

Zebrina (Wandering Jew). Commelinacea \

Very easily multiplied by single-joint cuttings of the
trailing shoots. These shoots root at the joints if allowed
to run on moist earth.

Zephyranthes, including Habranthus (Flower of the West
Wind, Zephyr Flower). Anutryllidacea.

May be multiplied by seeds ; or by separating the bulbels.
Zingiber, including Zerumbet (Ginger). Scitaminecs.

Propagated by division.
Zinnia (Youth-and-Old-Age). Composites.

Seeds, sown either indoors or out.
Zizania (Wild or Indian Rice). Graminecs.

Seeds, sown along water courses or in bogs in fall or
spring.

Zizyphus. See Jujube.

Zygadenus, including Amianthemum. Liliacece.

Readily multiplied by seeds or by division.
Z y gopetalum , Orchidacece.

Division. See also under Orchids.
Zygophyllum (Bean Caper). Zygophyllacece.

Seeds, when they can be had ; otherwise by cuttings in
a frame.

GLOSSARY.

Adventitious. Said of buds which appear in unusual places,
especially of those which are caused to appear on roots
and stems by any method of pruning or other treatment.

Air-layering. See Pot-layering.

Bark-grafting. A kind of grafting in which the cions are
inserted between the bark and wood of a stub ; often,
but erroneously, called crown-grafting. Fig. 135.

Bottle-grafting. A method of grafting in which a shred of
bark from the cion, or a portion of the bandage, is
allowed to hang in water (generally in a bottle, whence
the name), for the purpose of supplying the cion with
moisture until it has united with the stock. Pages 112,
132.

Bottom heat. A term used to designate the condition that
arises when the roots of plants, or the soil in which they
grow, are exposed to a higher temperature than that of
the air in which the aerial portions of the same plants
are growing.

Breaking. Said of buds and cions which start (or break} pre-
maturely. Page 101.

Brick (of mushroom). See Spawn.

Bud. As used by propagators, a bud comprises the leaf-bud
(or rarely a short spur) and a bit of bark or wood to
which it is attached. Figs. 85, 96, 99, 100.

Budding. The operation of applying a single bud to the
surface of the growing wood of the stock, with the in-
tention that it shall grow. The bud is usually inserted
underneath the bark of the cion, and is held in place by
a bandage. Budding is a part of the general process of
graftage. Called inoculation in old writings. Page 94.
(337)

338 GLOSSARY.

Bulb. A large and more or less permanent and fleshy leaf-
bud, usually occupying the base of the stem and bearing
roots on its lower portion. Scaly bulbs, like that of the
lily (Figs. 19, 20), are made up of narrow and mostly
loose imbricated scales. Tunicated or laminated bulbs,
like that of the onion, are composed of closely fitting
and more continuous layers or plates.

Bulbel. A smaller or secondary bulb borne about a mother
bulb ; bulbule. Page 27.

Bulblet. A small bulb borne wholly above ground, usually
in the inflorescence or in the axil of the leaf, as in " top
onions," tiger lily, etc.

Bulbo-tuber. See Corm.

Bulbule. See Bulbel.

Callus. The mass of reparative or healing tissue which
forms over a wound.

Cambium. The tissue which lies between the bark and the
wood, and from which those parts arise.

Chinese- layering. See Pot-layering.

Chip-budding. That style of budding which removes a
truncheon or chip of bark and wood from the side of the
stock, and fills the cavity with a similarly shaped bud
from the variety which it is desired to propagate. Fig.

100.

Cion or Scion. A portion of a plant which is mechanically
inserted upon the same or another plant (stock), with the
intention that it shall grow. See Chapter V., and Figs.
101, 102, 108, in, 115, 116, 119, and others.

Cion-budding. See Shield-grafting.

Circumposition. See Pot-layering.

Cleft-grafting. That method of grafting in which the stock
is cut off completely and then split, and one or more
cions, cut wedge-shape, inserted in the cleft. Figs. 118,
119, 124, 125, 126, 134.

The grafted end of the stock (Figs. 118, 126) is called
a stub.

CLOVE DOUBLE-WORKING. 339

Clove. One of the small separable portions of a composite
bulb, as in the garlic.

Corm. A solid bulb-like tuber, more or less covered with a
sheathing or enwrapping tissue, as in the crocus and
gladiolus ; bulbo-tuber. Fig. 25.

Cormel. A small corm borne about another or mother
corm. Page 31. Fig. 25. Sometimes called spawn.

Crown. A detachable portion or branch of a rootstock bear-
ing roots and a prominent bud. Page 32.

That portion of the plant at the surface of the ground
which stands between the visible stem and root ; collar.

Crown-grafting. Grafting upon the crown or collar of a
plant (z. e., at the surface of the ground). Page 107.

Also applied to bark-grafting (but improperly). Page
129.

Cuttagc. The practice or process of multiplying plants by
means of cuttings, or the state or condition of being
thus propagated. [First used by the present author in
26th Report of the State Board of Agriculture of Mich-
igan, p. 432 (1887). Equivalent to the French boutu-
rage.~\ See Chapter IV.

Cutting. A severed portion of a plant, inserted in soil,
water, or other medium, with the intention that it shall
grow; a slip. See Chapter IV.

Cutting-bench. A bed or table in a glass-house, or under
cover, used for the rooting of cuttings. Fig. 58.

Cutting-grafting. The grafting of a cion upon a cutting.
Page 131. Figs. 105, 137.

Damping-off . The rotting away of the tissue of plant stems
at or near the surface of the ground. It is the work of
fungi or of germs. Page 23.

Division. Propagation of plants by means of severed por-
tions of the root system or of subterranean stems.
Pages 32 and 58.

Double- working. Grafting or budding upon a plant or shoot
which is itself a graft or bud. Page 133. Fig. 140.

340 GLOSSARY.

Dressing (of stocks). The trimming of stocks, which are to
be budded or grafted, before they are set in the nursery-
row. Fig. 86. Page 96.

Dwarfing. The permanent checking of the growth of a plant
so that it never attains its normal stature. The chief
means employed in the dwarfing of trees are, grafting
upon a slow-growing stock, heading-in of the top, con-
fining or pruning the roots. Page 147.

Eye. A bud. Single-eye cuttings are those bearing but
one bud. Fig 66.

Flagging. Wilting. Said of plants newly transplanted, or
of cuttings. Pages 53, 66, 68. Also applied to the
general wilting of plants due to lack of water.

Flat. A shallow box or tray, in which the gardener grows
or transports plants.

Flute-budding. That method of budding which removes a
rectangular portion of bark from the stock and fills the
cavity with a similar piece of bark, of the desired va-
riety, bearing a bud. Fig. 99.

Frame. The structure forming the sides and ends of cold
frames or hotbeds. A frame is commonly six feet wide
and of sufficient length to accommodate from three to
six three-feet-wide sash. It is usually made of boards.
The area covered by a single glass shutter is called a
sash, and is generally 3x6 feet. The area which is com-
monly understood as one frame is 6 x 12 feet.
Free Stock. See Stock and Seedling.

Germination. The act or process by means of which a seed
or spore gives rise to a new plant. Germination is com-
plete when the plantlet has exhausted the store of food
in the seed and is able to support itself. Page 9. The
word germination cannot be properly applied to the
arising of plants from tubers, as of the potato ; vegeta-
tion is the better term in .such cases.

GRAFTAGE HERBACEOUS-GRAFTING. 34!

Graftage. The process or operation of grafting or budding,
or the state or condition of being grafted or budded.
[First used by the present author in 26th Report of the
State Board of Agriculture of Michigan, p. 433 (1887).
Equivalent to the French greffage.'} See Chapter V.

Grafting. The operation of inserting a cion in a stock. It
is commonly restricted to the operation of inserting
cions of two or more buds, in distinction from budding,
or the operation of inserting a single bud in the stock ;
but there are no essential differences between the two
operations. See Chapter V.

H-budding. Much like flute-budding (which see), except
that the bark which is loosened from the stock is left
attached in two flaps, secured at the upper and lower
ends, and these flaps are tied over the bud. Fig. 98.

Heading-in. Cutting back or shortening the shoots or
branches of plants, in distinction to removing the branch
bodily at its point of union with the parent branch.

Heel. A form of cutting of which the lower end comprises

the very base of the shoot as it grew upon the parent

branch. Fig. 60.
Heeling-in. The temporary covering of plants, or of their

roots, in order to preserve or protect them until they are

placed in permanent quarters.

Herb. A plant which dies to the ground once a year, at the
approach of winter or of the inactive season. Used in
distinction to woody plants, like shrubs and trees.
Perennial herbs are those of which the tops or aerial
portions perish while the root lives on from year to
year, in distinction to an annual herb, which perishes
outright after one season of growth and flowering.

Herbaceous-grafting. The grafting of soft, growing shoots ;
generally confined to the grafting of herbs, but the term
may be applied to the grafting of the growing shoots of
woody plants. Page 130.
w

342 GLOSSARY.

Inarching The joining, by graftage, of parts of two con-
tiguous plants, whilst the cion part is still attached to
its parent plant. The cion is severed from its parent
when it has united with its foster stock. Figs. 138, 139.

Inlaying. The insertion of a cion into a cavity or notch
made by the removal of a piece of wood from the stock.
Fig. 116.

June-budding. The practice of budding trees very early in
the season, commonly in June, with the expectation that
the buds are to grow the same season. Practiced in the
south. Page 103.

Knaur. An excrescence or burr appearing as redundant or
adventitious tissue upon a woody plant, and which may
be used for the propagation of the plant when removed
and treated like a cutting. Page 64.

Layer. A shoot or root, attached to the parent plant, par-
tially or wholly covered with earth, with the intention
that it shall take root and then be severed from the
parent. See Figs. 29, 30.

Layerage. The operation or practice of making a layer, or
the state or condition of being layered. [Word first
used by the present author in 26th Report of the State
Board of Agriculture of Michigan, p. 431 (1887). Equiv-
alent to the French marcottage,~\ See Chapter III.

Mallet. A form of cutting in which a prominent transverse
portion of an older branch is left upon the lower end.
Fig. 61.

Mother-bulb. The large or parent bulb about which smaller
bulbs, or bulbels, are borne.

Mound-layering. The rooting of upright shoots by means
of heaping earth about them ; stool-layering. Fig. 32.

Nursery. An establishment for the rearing of plants. In
America the word is commonly but erroneously used in
connection with the propagation of woody plants only,
as fruit trees and ornamental trees and shrubs. The

OFFSET RHIZOME. 343

word properly includes the propagation of all plants by
whatever means, and in this sense it is used in this book.

Offset. A rosette or cluster of leaves, on a very short axis,
borne next the surface of the ground, and in time be-
coming detached and making an independent plant.
Page 32.

Piece-root-grafting. Grafting upon pieces of roots. Page
109. Figs. 103, 104. See also, Figs. 144-152.

Pip. A perpendicular rootstock or crown, used for the
propagation of a plant. Page 33.

A seed of one of the "seed fruits," as apple or pear.
Used in distinction to the stone or pit of a " stone fruit."

Plate-budding. Much like flute-budding (which see), except
that the bark loosened from the stock is left attached at
its lower end, and this flap is then raised and bound
over the bud. Fig. 97.

Pot-layering. The rooting of an aerial stem by means of
encircling it with earth or moss. Figs. 34, 35. Known
also as air-layering, Chinese-layering, and circumpo-
sition.

Prong-budding. A method of propagation much like shield-
budding, except that the bud bears a short branch or
spur. Fig. 96.

Pseudo-bulb. Generically, a corm, or homogeneous bulb-
like enlargement under ground or at the base of the
plant. The term is now commonly restricted, however,
to the thickened bases of the stems in various orchids ;
these usually stand just at or below the surface of the
ground. See under Orchids, page 284.

Regermination. The continuation or resumption of the pro-
cess of germination after it has been completely inter-
rupted or checked. Page 9.

Rhizome. A subterranean branch or stem ; rootstock. A
rhizome is distinguished from a root by the presence of
joints and buds ; and it is usually thicker and more
fleshy than the roots.

344 GLOSSARY.

Root-grafting. Grafting upon a root. Pages 107, 109.
Figs. 103, 104. See also, Figs. 144-152.

Rootstock. See Rhizome.

Root-tip. See Tip.

Saddle-grafting. That method of grafting in which the
stock is cut wedge-shape, and the cion is cleft and
slipped down over the wedge. Fig. 109.

Scion. See Cion.

Seed. The reproductive body which results from a flower,
and which is the product of sexual union. It is a
ripened ovule. The rudimentary plantlet which it con-
tains is the embryo.

Seedage. The process or operation of propagating by seeds
or spores, or the state or condition of being propagated
by seeds or spores. [Word first used by the present
author in 26th Report of the State Board of Agriculture
of Michigan, p. 430 (1887).] See Chapter I.

Seed-grafting. The insertion of a seed, as a cion, in a
stock. Page 131.

Seedling. A plant growing directly from the seed without
the intervention of graftage. If it is used upon which
to graft or bud, it is known as a free stock.

Separation. The act or process of multiplying plants by
means of naturally detachable vegetative organs, or the
state or condition of being so multiplied. [First tech-
nically used in this meaning in 26th Report of the State
Board of Agriculture of Michigan, p. 432 (1887).] See
Chapter II.

Set. An indefinite term applied to various vegetative parts
which are used for purposes of propagation. It may
designate a root cutting (Fig. 64), or a small bulb (as in
the onion).

Shield-budding. That method of budding which makes a
T-shaped incision on the stock (Fig. 90), and inserts a
shield-shaped bud (Fig. 85) into the opening (Fig. 91)
Page 95.

SHIELD-GRAFTING STOLON. 345

Shield-grafting. The insertion of a cion with a wedge-
shape point into an incision like that used for shield -
budding ; cion-budding. Fig. 115.

Side-grafting. The insertion of a cion with a sharp or
wedge-shape point into a diagonal incision into the
wood on the side of the stock. Figs. 113, 114, 115.
See, also, Veneer-grafting.

Silver Sand. Clear white sand devoid of organic matter,
used for the starting of cuttings. Page 54.

Slip. See Cutting ; also, page 65.

Spawn. The dried mycelium of mushrooms, preserved fn
dense masses of prepared earth and manure (known as
"bricks"), or in loqse, strawy litter (known as
"French spawn"), or in the loose earth of mushroom
beds.
See, also, Cormel.

Splice-grafting. The joining of simple oblique surfaces in
the stock and cion. Fig. no.

Spore. The reproductive body of a flowerless plant (or
cryptogam), as of ferns, fungi, sea-weeds, and the like.
It has no embryo, and it commonly consists of a single
cell.

Spur. A very short branch, usually lateral, which does not
increase markedly in length from year to year. The
normal office of spurs is to bear flowers and fruit.

Stem-grafting. Grafting upon the stem or trunk of a plant,
between the crown (or the ground) and the top. Page
107.

Stick. A twig of the recent growth of any plant, bearing buds
which it is proposed to use in propagation. Fig. 87.

Stock. In graftage, a plant or part of a plant upon which a
cion or bud is set. A free stock is a seedling, in dis-
tinction from a grafted stock.

Stolon. A decumbent shoot which, without artificial aid,
takes root and forms an independent plant. The honey-

346 GLOSSARY.

suckles, some osiers (as Cornus stolonifera), and many
other bushes with long and slender branches, propagate
by means of stolons. The black raspberry propagates
by a special kind of stolon, rooting only at its tip.

Stool. A clump or mass of roots or rootstocks which may

be readily divided for purposes of propagation. Fig. 27.

An established root of a bush-like plant from which

shoots are grown for the purpose of layering. Page 39.

Stool-layering. See Mound-layering.

Stove. The warmest portion or compartment of glass-
houses, used for tropical plants.

Stratification. The operation of burying seeds, usually in
layers, in order to keep them viable and to soften their
integuments. Page 15.

Striking. A term applied to the forming or emitting of
roots on layers or cuttings. A cutting is struck when it
has made roots.

Stub. See Cleft-grafting.

Sucker. A shoot sent up from the roots, more particularly
one which it is not desired shall grow. Also used for
strong and mischievous shoots in the top of a tree. See
Watersprout.

Tip. The plant formed at the end of a stolon when it strikes
the ground. The black raspberry propagates naturally
by tips. Fig. 28. The branches of other plants, like
the currant, can be made to strike at the tip when they
are bent over and fastened in the ground.

Tongue-grafting. See Whip-grafting.

Top-grafting. Grafting the top or branches of a tree or
bush. Pages 107, 122. Figs. 127-132.-

Tuber. As used in this book, a prominently thickened and
turgid homogeneous portion of a root or stem, usually
subterranean, and which generally does not increase or

TUBULAR-BUDDING WHISTLE-BUDDING. 347

perpetuate itself (as bulbs and corms do) by direct off-
shoots or accessions. Page 32.

In botanical writings, the term is commonly restricted
to thickened subterranean stems, as in the Irish potato
and the Jerusalem artichoke.

Tubular-budding. See Whistle-budding.

Veneer-grafting, That style of grafting in which a cion, with
the bark removed from one side, is applied to the side
of a stock from which a strip of bark has been removed.
Sometimes called side-grafting. Figs, in, 112.

Watersprout. A strong and comparatively soft shoot arising
from an adventitious bud in the top or from the trunk of
a plant. It is usually forced out by severe pruning or
heading-in. It is an undesirable type of shoot when fruits
or flowers are desired, because it expends its energies
for one or several seasons in exuberant growth. Water-
sprouts are often purposely obtained, however, when it
is desired to secure young wood in which to set buds in
old trees. Page 105. Compare Sucker.

Whip-grafting. A style of grafting in which the stock and
cion are shaped alike— an oblique cut and a perpendicu-
lar cleft ; tongue-grafting. Figs. 101, 102.

Whistle-budding. That kind of budding in which a ring or
girdle of bark is removed from the stock, the girdle be-
ing filled by a similar ring, with a bud attached, of the
variety which it is desired to propagate ; tubular-bud-
ding. Page 106.

INDEX.

The alphabetical entries or headings in the Nursery List,
Chapter VI., are not included in this index, but all second-
ary and incidental names and references comprised in it
are intended to be included here. Inasmuch as many culti-
vated plants of secondary importance had to be' omitted
from the Nursery List in the effort to economize space, the
present index has been made to include the names of all the
natural families of plants which that List comprises, in the
hope of aiding the student in apprehending the general
methods of propagation which apply to the family of which
any plant, itself omitted from the List, may be a member.
This ordinal index was made a separate feature of the first
edition of the book.

Page

Acanthaceae 159, 169, 183,

231, 236, 260, 265, 323, 327

Achras 315

Aconite 160

—Winter 231

Acontias 335

Acorns, transporting 19

Adamsia 306

Adonis seeds 8

^Egle trifoliata 76

Affinities, for graftage .... 77

African I^ily 162

Agrostemma 268

Air-layering ... 40

Akebia quinata 68

Alcoholic waxes 136

Alismaceae 163, 193, 266

Allegheny Vine 161

Alligator Pear . 295

Page

Allium Ascalonicum 318

— Cepa 281

— fistulosum 281

— Porrum 264

— sativum 238

— Schcenoprasum 209

— Scorodoprasum 311

Allspice 198

Almond for peach stock ... 74

— Tropical 326

Althea cuttings 68

Amarantacese 165, 258

Amaryllidaceae . 162, 165, 188, 190,

192, 196, 197, 213, 218, 220, 222, 228,

232, 233, 238, 239, 249, 253, 256, 257,

258, 265, 277, 279, 289, 303, 331, 336

Amelanchier oblongifolia . . 260

American Agriculturist,

quoted 246

(349)

350

INDEX.

American Centaury

— Cress

Amomophyllum
Anacardiacese .

Page

• • -313

. . 182
... 320
. 167, 271,

300, 311, 316, 321

Ananas sativus 298

Andromeda seeds 20

Anethum graveolens 226

Aniseed-tree 257

Anisopetalum 193

Annular-budding 106

Anonacese 168, 176, 178

Apium graveolens 203

— Petroselinum 289

Apocynacese 164, 166,

170, 227, 270, 279, 325, 328, 332, 334

Apple Berry 186

— dwarfing ............ 148

—effect on land 140

—Paradise 39

—root cuttings 61

— seeds, treatment of . . . . 17, 19

— stock, height for 146

— stocks for 74, 75

Apricot, St. Domingo 270

— stocks 164

Aquatic plants, sowing seeds . 21

Aquilegias 33

Araliacese 175, 221,

240, 250, 286, 3:6
Arbor-vitse, Japanese .... 309

Arching layers 38

Aristolochiacese ... 176, 177

Arloing, on Cactus cuttings . . 194

Aroidese 160, 164, 166,

169, 176, 177, 195,
249, 274, 287, 294, 297,

3", 315, 3i6, 320, 322, 335

Artemisia Absinthium .... 334

" Dracunculus . . . 326

Arthur, J. C., Geneva tester . . n

Artillery Plant 298

Asclepiadaceae .... 167, 177, 205,

241, 255, 271, 295, 321, 322
Asexual propagation 91

Page

Ash 65

Aspen 304

Asphodel 178

Atkinson, quoted 23

Aubletia 288

Augur, Mr., quoted 75

Autumn Crocus 214

Avocado Pear 295

Azalea Indica 65

Balfouria 334

Balsam Fir stocks . . 157, 298

Baltet, quoted 80

Bamboo .... 181

Bandages, waxed 137

Bark-grafting 129

Barnard's tank 49

Bartow Courier -Informant,

quoted . . 283

Bass-bark . 100

Bastard Cedar 203

— Indigo 166

Bass wood cuttings 55

Bead-tree ... .... 273

Bean, Broad or Horse . . . 334

—grafting 78

—dwarfs 148

Bearbind . 198

Beard-tongue 294

Bear's Breech 159

Beech, grafting 116

Begonia 70, 71, 72

— plantlets of 30

— seeds 21

Begoniaceae 184

Belladonna 179

Bell-jar . 44

Bellwort, Giant 287

Bene . . . 318

Berberidacese 163, 182.

1 86, 203, 230, 259, 264, 303

Berberis vulgaris 182

Beta vulgaris 184

Bignoniaceae 166, 186,

202, 209, 229, 258, 326
Bindweed . . 198, 215

INDEX.

351

Page
B'rd of Paradise Flower . . . 323

Bird's-tongue Flower 323

Blackberry Lily 185

— root cuttings 61

Black Boy 335

— Hellebore . . 252

—Pea 332

— .Salsify 316

Bladder-pod 331

Blue Cohosh 203

Blue Flag 258

Boards, on seeds 4

Boneset 233

Boning 98

Boring seeds 18

Borraginaceae .... 167, 176, 189,

215, 251, 273, 276, 281, 282, 325

Botanical Gazette, quoted . . n

Bottle-grafting 112, 132

Bottom heat for cuttings ... 53

for seeds 8

Botryanthus 275

Bouvardia cuttings 61

Bowstring Hemp 315

Boxberry 238

Bradley, quoted . 77

Brake, Bracken 306

Bramble 313

Brassica oleracea 194, 261

—species 276, 329

Broad Bean 334

Broad-leaved China Fir ... 220
Bromeliacese . . 186, 191, 298, 328

Broom, Scotch 222

Brush screen 5

Bryophyllum 70

Buckthorn, Sea 253

Budded trees 148

Budding 94

Budd, Professor, quoted ... 74

Bud-grafting 79

Bugle 163

-Uly 333

Bulbels 27, 60

Bulblet . 30, 60

Page

Bulbs 26

Burbidge, F. W., quoted . . 84, 92

Burseraceae 181, 189, 193

Butterfly -.36

Butternut 201, 259

Bitter Vetch 287

Button-wood 204

— Snake-root 265

—tree 215

Cabbage, leaf cuttings . . .70

Cactaceae . . 194, 231,

282, 294, 295, 297, 310
Cactus cuttings .... 60, 65, 67

—grafting 128

Cselestina 163

Calampelis 229

Calceolaria, sowing 20

Calico-bush 261

California Poppy 232

Calipers . 143

Callistemma 197

Callus 55

Calycanthaceae 198, 209

Caltrops, Water 328

Cambium 78

Cambogia 238

Camellia cuttings 65

— graftage 76

Campanulaceae . . . 161, 199, 221,

222, 287, 298, 300, 308, 328

Campanula Rapunculus . . 308

Camphor-tree 199

Canary-bird Flower 329

Candleberry 277

Canellacese 199

Canna 33, 34

— treatment of seeds 18

Cape Primrose 323

Caper 200

Capparidaceae 200, 212

Caprifoliacese 157, 226,

266, 268, 314, 325, 332

Caprifolium 268

Carnation cuttings 65, 66

—layering 38

352

INDEX.

Page

Carrion Flower 321

Carrot, seed tests 10

Carthamus tinctorius 314

Caryophyllaceae 175, 200,

249, 268, 299, 315, 318, 325

Castalia 280

Castor Bean 311

Casuarineae 202

Cayenne 295

Cedar, Bastard 203

—Japan 219

Celastracese 202, 203, 276

Celt ry, seed tests . 10

—sowing 4, 22

Cellars 143

Centaury 232

— American 313

Cercis Japonica 68

Cereus, species 194

Chaerophyllutn bulbosum . . . 208

Chaste-tree 333

Chauviere's oven 47

Cheiranthus Cheiri 333

Chenopodiacese . 184, 189, 282, 321

Cherry, dwarfing 147

—effect on land 140

—root cuttings ....... 61

—stock, height for .... 146, 147

China Root 319

Chinese layering 40

—Sacred Lily 277

Chip-budding 107

Chisels 119

Chocolate-tree 327

Choko 317

Christmas Rose 252

Chrysanthemum 66

— foeniculaceum 271

— frutescens 271

—grafting 78

Cichorium Endivia 230

— Intybus 208

Cineraria, sowing 20

Cion-budding 116

—grafting . 79

Page

Cion-cutting 107

Circumposition 40

Cistacese 211, 251

Citrullus vulgaris 333

Citrus fruits, stocks for .... 76

— Aurantium 282

— Decumana 304

—Japonica 262

— Umetta 266

— Medica 212

var. acris 266

var. I,imon 264

— species 283

— trifoliata 76, 161

Cives .209

Classification of graftage ... 79

Cleft-grafting 118

Climate and graftage 75

Clintonia 213, 228

Cloche 44

Cloth screens 6

Club-moss 269

Cob-nut 217

Cocoanut fiber for seeds ... 20
Coco Plum .... ... 210

Cocos nucifera 214

Coffee-tree 214

Cohosh, Blue 203

Coleuses . 65, 66

Collodion for wounds .... 138
Color modified by graftage . . 76

Compass-plant 318

Combretaceae 215, 326

Comf rey 62

Commelinacese . 215, 226, 328, 336

Compositae . . . 159, 162, 163, 166,

169, 176, 177, 178, 185,.

188, 190, 196, 197, 201, 202,

208, 209, 210, 211, 2l6, 217, 222,

223, 228, 229, 230, 233, 234, 238, 239,
248, 249, 251, 252, 257, 263, 264, 265,
271,276, 287, 299, 313, 314, 316, 317,

318, 320, 322, 325, 326, 331, 334, 336

Cone Head 323

—flower 313

INDEX.

353

Page
Coniferse 15?, i?5, 197,

203. 205, 219, 220, 222, 236,

240, 252, 260, 262, 297, 298, 299,
303, 306, 309, 316, 317, 326, 327, 328

Conifer cuttings 57> 64

—grafting "5

Convolvulacese 176, 198,

215, 257, 279, 324

Coquito Palm 259

Coral-tree 232

Coriandrum sativum 216

Cork for seeds 20

—tree 296

Cormels 31

Conns 31

Cornacese . . 179, 185, 216, 238, 280

Cornell Exp. Sta., quoted . . 9, 23,

in, 117. 139, 148, 174

Corn, fertility in 140

Corypha 205

Cottonwood 3°4

Cow-dung for seeds 20

Cow-itch 275

Cow Parsley 252

— Parsnip 252

Cowslip, American 228

Crabs as stocks 76, 170

Crakeberry 230

—Portugal 216

Crambe maritima 317

Crandall, C. S., quoted .... 88

Crape Myrtle 262

Crassulacese . 192, 217, 218, 261, 317
Cress, American or Upland . . 182

—Curled 294

Crocus 31

— autumn 214

— sativus 314

Crosswort 219

Crowberry 216, 230

Crown-grafting 107, 129

Crowns 32, 33

Cruciferse .... 165, 167, 174, 179,

182, 194, 200, 218, 225, 228,

232, 252, 254, 256, 261, 268, 270,

272, 294, 308, 311, 317, 329, 33L 333

Page
Cryptomeria Japonica .... 64

Cubeb 299

Cucullaria 333

Cucumis Anguria 239

— Melo 273

—sativus 219

Cucurbitacese 158, 192,

219, 239, 242, 268,
272, 273, 274, 306, 317, 321, 329, 333

Cucurbita Pepo 242

—species 306.321

Cupuliferae 164, 186.

201, 208, 209, 233, 287, 307

Curled Cress 294

Currant cuttings .... 55, 5^, $3

Currants, by tips 36

Cuttage 44

Cutting-bench 52

—grafting 131

Cuttings 44-72

Cutting side-graft n6

Cuttings as stocks no

Cycad truncheons 65

Cycadacese . . 205, 221, 227, 230, 335

Cynara Scolymus 176

Cyperacese 200, 221, 289

Cyrillacese 222

Cyrtopodium 296

Dahlia 32

—grafting 129

Dahlias, dwarf 148

Dame's Violet 252

Damping-off 23, 54

Darwin, quoted 77, 87, 91

Date Plum 227

Datiscacese 224

Delphinium seeds 8

Dendrobium Phalsenopsis . . 286

Depth to sow seeds 21

Desert Willow 209

Deutzia cuttings 68

Dewberry 35

Dianthus barbatus 325

Diapensiaceae 238

Diervilla 67

354

INDEX

Page
Dilleniaceae . . .... 199, 227

Dioscoreacese 227, 326

Diospyros Kaki 295

— Virginiana 295

Dipsacese 316

Dish-cloth Gourd 268

Disocactus 297

Distance apart for trees .... 146

Dittany 226

Division 32, 58

Dog's-tooth Violet 232

Dorcoceras 181

Double-grafting 133

Double-working 133

Doucin stock 148

Downing, quoted 77

Dracaena 61

Dragon's Head 228

Dressing of stocks 96

Droseracese 227, 229

Duck's Foot 303

Dwarfing 73, 74, 147

Dwarf Pears 62

Ebenacese 227, 295

Ebony. Mountain 183

Elseagnacese 229, 253, 318

Elichrysum 251

Elm 65

Elephant's Foot 326

Empetracese 204, 216, 230

Endive, seed tests 10

Ensilage Corn . 140

Entomosporium maculatum . 291

Epacridaceae 167, 179, 230

Equestrian Star 253

Ericaceae 167, 175,

180, 184, 197, 202, 213,

218, 230, 231, 238, 261, 263, 264,

265, 267, 269, 287, 306, 310, 330, 334

Eruca sativa 311

Ervums 264

Eryngo . 232

Euohorbiaceae 158, 163,

193, 202, 210, 214, 233,
259, 271, 297, 3°3, 3", 322

^age-
Euphorbia cuttings 65

Evergreen cuttings 57, 64

Everlastings 251

Exotic seeds 19

Fadyenia 238

Fagopyrum esculentum . . , 192

— Tataricum 192

False Solomon's Seal 319

Fan Palm 267

Felicia 162, 234

Fenzlia 239

Fern, Flowering 287

—Hartford 269

Ferns, plantlets of 30

— sowing 24

Fertility of lands 139

Ficoideae 273

Ficus Carica 236

— cuttings 65

— elastica 41

Field, The, quoted 83

Fig, Marigold 273

Filices 224, 226,

234, 269, 287, 300, 304, 306

Filing seeds 18

Fir, Broad-leaved China . . . 220

First-class trees 143

Five-Finger 305

Flavor modified by graftage . 76

Flax I,ily 297

Fleur-de-t,is 236

Flowering Fern 287

— Rush 193

Flower of the West Wind ... 336

Flute-budding 106

Foeniculum 234

Formation of roots 55

Forsyth's cutting-pot 51

French Mulberry 196

Frenela 197

Fringe Flower 316

Fruit-grafting 131

Fuchsias 65

Fuller's Herb 315

Fumariacese 161, 217, 226

INDEX.

355

Page

Fungus in cellars 145

Funkia 33

Galeopsis 321

Garden, quoted 83, 84

Garden and Forest, quoted . . 74
Gardener's Chronicle, quoted . 29
Garland Flower, Indian . . .251

Gauging 143

Geneva seed tests n

Gentian 239

Gentianaceae . 209, 232, 239, 273, 313

Geraniaceae 180, 181,

232, 239, 287, 294, 329
Geraniums .... 65, 66, 67, 70, 72

Germander 326

German seed tester 13

Germinators 18

Gesneracese . . . . 159, 161, 181,
226, 239, 261, 277, 308, 314, 318, 323

Giant Bellwort 287

Ginep 273

Girdles, repairing 129

Girdling layers 38

Gladiolus 31

Glechoma 278

Globe Flower 329

— Mallow 320

—Ranunculus 329

-Thistle 229

Glory Pea 213

Gloxinia 60, 72

—grafting 129

— seeds 21

Glyptostrobus 326

Goat's Rue 238

Gnetaceae 230

Golden Bell 236

—Chain 262

—Drop 282

Goldfussia 323

Goldy-Locks 210

Goober 175

Goodenovieae 316

Gooseberries, by tips 36

—mound layering 39

Page
Gooseberry, Barbadoes .... 295

—cuttings 57, 63

— Otaheite 210

Gossypium 217

Gourd, Dish-cloth 268

—Snake 329

Grades of trees 142

Graftage 73-156

Graft-hybrid 77

Grafting 107

Gramineae 163, 177,

181, 190, 191, 195,
249, 270, 274, 296, 320, 324, 336

Grape layering 37

Grapes, cuttings of 53, 55,

57, 63, 64

—grafting in, ii25

116, 117, 121, 132

Grass of Parnassus 289

Grass-tree 335

Green Briar 319

Green -wood cuttings 65

Ground Cherry 297

Groundsel 317

Gutta-Percha tree 258

Guttiferae .... 198, 213, 238, 270

Habranthus 336

Haemodoraceae 249, 315

Halorageae 249

Hamamelideac, 192, 237, 250, 266, 289
Hardiness and graf tage .... 75
Hard-wood cuttings .... • . 62

Hare's Ear 193

Hartford Fern • . 269

Hatchet Cactus 294

Haws, treatment of seeds . . . 18

H-budding 106

Healing of wounds 126

Hedge Bindweed 198

—Mustard 232

—Nettle 321

Heeling-in 146

Heel of cutting 55

Helianthus tuberosus 177

Heliotrope 66, 251

INDEX.

Page

Hellebore, Black 252

—White 331

Hemerocallis 33

Hemp, Bowstring 315

Hen and Chickens 32

Herbaceous-grafting 130

Herb of Grace 313

Heron's Bill 232

Hews, A. H. & Co., mentioned . 14

Hibiscus esculentus 280

Hicoria Pecan 293

Hickories, cuttings 58

Hickory-nuts, treatment of . . 17

Higginsia 253

Hoit's grafting device . . . .120

Holly, Japan 287

— Mountain 278

Hollyhock, grafting 129

Holly seeds, treatment of . . . 17

Hoop Withy . 311

Honey Plant 255

Honeysuckle 174

Hop-tree 306

Horned Rampion 298

Horse Bean 334

Horse-radish sets 57, 61

Hortensia 256

Hoskins' wax 138

House-leek 32

House plants 65, 67

Husk Tomato 297

Husmann, George, quoted . . 246

Hyacinth 255

— cuttings 60

— propagation 28

Hyacinthus candicans .... 238

Hydrangea 67, 68

Hydrophyllaceae 278, 296

Hypericaceae 177, 256

Hyssopus officinalis 256

Ice Plant 273

Ilicineae 257, 278

Illairea 267

Ipomoea Batatas 324

— grafting 129

Page

Impatiens Balsamina 181

— Sultani 181

Inarching 79, 81, 132

Indian Cup 315

— Currant 325

—Garland Flower 251

Indigo 257

Influence of stock and cion . . 74

Inlaying 117

Inula Helenium 230

Iridaceae 168, 169, 176,

180, 185, 211, 219,

221, 235, 237, 240, 252, 258,

278, 316, 319, 320, 327, 329, 333

Ironweed 331

Ironwood 287

Ivory-tree 334

Jacobaea 317

Jalapa 274

Janipha 271

Japan Cedar 219

Japanese Arbor- Vitse 309

—Rose 198

Japan Holly 287

Japonica 198

Jasminanthes 322

Jasmine .259

— Box 296

Jessamine 259

Juglandaceae . . . 253, 259, 293, 306

Juncaceae 260, 335

June budding 103

June-struck cuttings 67

Juniper 260

Junipers, cuttings 64

Kalmia seeds 20

Keeping qualities of fruit . . 75

Kidney Vetch 169

Kier's layering-racks 42

Kinds of grafting 80

Knaurs 64

Knight, on sowing 2

Knives 97, in, 119

Knot-Grass 304

Knot- Weed 304

INDEX.

357

Page

Labiatse 163, 181,

183, 195, 203, 214, 228,

254, 256, 263, 264, 278, 294, 295.

297, 313, 314, 315, 320, 321, 326, 32?

Labrador Tea 263

Lace Bark 262

Lactuca sativa 264

Ladies' Ear Drop 237

Lady's Mantle 163

—Slipper 222

—Smock 200

Lagenaria 242

Lands, management of .... 139

Lantanas 7°

Larch 262

Lath screen 5

Lauraceae . . 199, 263, 266, 295, 315

Lavender 263

Lead Plant 166

Leadwort 3°3

Leaf-blight 291

Leaf Cactus 297

— cuttings 60, 70

— grafting 131

Leather Leaf 202

Lecoq's oven 48

Leguminosse . . 158, 161, 162, 163,

166, 160, 170, 175,179,

182, 183, 191, 195, 196, 200,

201, 202, 205, 212, 213, 215, 216,
219, 222, 223, 228, 232, 234, 238, 240,
241, 249, 250, 251 , 255, 257, 26l, 262,
263. 264, 267, 268, 272, 274, 275, 282,
287, 288, 289, 290, 295, 296, 303, 306,

311, 318, 320, 324, 325, 331, 332, 334

Lemon Verbena 165

Lentibulariaceae 299

Leopard's Bane 228

Lepidium sativum .... 218, 294

Lepismium 310

Levisticum officinale 268

Layerage 35

Ligularia 317

Light, and germination .... 8
Lilac, cuttings 67

Page

Lilacs 33

Liliaceae 162, 163, 164, 169,

178, 183, 186, 188, 190, 192, 193,
197, 198, 209, 213, 214, 215, 216, 224,
227, 231, 232, 247, 238, 240, 252, 255,
261,262, 264, 265, 267, 274, 275, 277,
281, 287, 289, 297, 304, 306, 311, 313,
316, 318, 319, 329, 330, 331, 335, 336

Lilium auratum 27

— candidum 27

— pardalinum 27

— speciosum 27

Lily 265

—African 162

—Blackberry 185

Lily-of-the- Valley 33

Lily propagation 27, 28

—Thorn 203

—tiger 30

—Triplet 329

Lime, Spanish 273

Limits of graf tage 77

Linaceae 232, 266, 309

Linkia 295

Lion's Ear 264

—Foot 264

—Tail 264

Loasaceae 188, 267, 273

Lobeliaceae 228, 267

Locust seeds, treatment of . 17, 18
Lodeman, quoted . in, 117, 148, 184

Loganiaceae 239, 267

Loosestrife 269

Loranthaceae 332

Love-in-a-Mist 279

Lungwort 273

Lupine 268

Lycopodiaceae 269, 317

Lycopodiums 24

Lycopersicum esculentum . . 328
Lythracese . . 220, 262, 263, 269, 304

Madwort 165

Magnoliaceae 205, 228,

257, 260, 267, 269, 273, 316
Mahaleb Cherry 147

353

INDEX.

Page

Mahalebs 206

Mallet cuttings 55

—for grafting 126

Mallow, Globe 320

—Poppy 197

Malpighiaceae .... 194, 270, 322

Malvaceae 158, 165, 189,

197, 217, 231, 252, 254, 270, 280, 320
Mammee Apple ........ 270

Man-and-Wife 32

Management of nurseries . . 138

Manetti Rose 96

Mangifera Indica 271

Manna tree 163

Manuring nursery lands . . . 139

Maple cuttings 58

Maples, grafting 115

Marigold, Pot 196

Marrubium vulgare 254

Marvel of Peru 274

Matrimony Vine 269

May-apple 33

Mazzards 206

Medick 272

Melastomaceae 176, 186,

190, 221, 263, 272, 320

Meliaceae 203, 273, 315

Melissa officinalis 181

Menispermaceae . . . 211, 213, 273

Mentha piperita 294

— Pulegium 294

— viridis . 320

Mespilus Germanica ... 272

Mice, to protect from 146

Micropiper 294

Milk Vetch . . 179

Milkwort 304

Mock Privet 296

Moisture, for seeds i

Mold in cell irs 145

Monkey-flower 274

Moonflower seeds 18

Morellos 207

Morren, quoted 77

Morus alba in, 275

Morus Japonica

Page
90

— rubra ........ 90, in, 275

Moss for seeds ....... 20, 21

Mottet, mentioned ...... 23

Mound layering ........ 39

Mountain Ash for pear stock . 74
-- seeds ........... 17

—Ebony ........... X83

—Fringe ............ n5i

—Holly . . ........ 278

Mulberry ....... 90,111,116

—French ........... 196

—Paper .......... 191

Musa paradisiaca ....... 182

— Sapientum ......... 182

Musk Plant .......... 274

Muslin for tying ....... 103

— screens ........... 6

Mustard, Hedge ........ 232

Myconia . . ....... 308

Myrica asplenifolia ...... 215

Myricaceae ........ 115, 277

Myristicaceae ........ 277

Mj robalan plum ....... 148

—stocks ........ 174 291,301

Myrrh ...... ....... 277

Myrsinaceae .......... 175

Myrtaceae ........ 181, 183,

197, 198, 200, 201, 232, 249, 272, 277
Myrtle .......... 277, 332

Naiadaceae ........ 170, 287

Nasturtium Armoracia . . . . 254

— officinale .......... 333

Natural graft ......... 82

Navelwort ........... 217

Nelumbium .......... 278

—seeds ........... 18

Nepenthacese ......... 278

Nepeta Cataria ........ 203

Nettle, Stingless ....... 298

Neumann's cutting-pot .... 51

N. Y. Exp. Sta., quoted (note) . 139
N. Y. Exp. Sta., seed testing . T i
New Zealand Flax ..... 297

INDEX.

359

Page

Nitrate of Soda 142

Nitrogen in lauds ... 139, 142
Norway Spruce stocks . . 157, 298

Nursery lands 139

Nut-trees, cuttings 58

Nyctaginaceae . . . . 158, 189, 274,
Nymphaeaceae . . 194, 278, 280, 332

Oakesia 330

Oaks, cuttings of 58

Ochnacese 280

Ocymum Basilicum 183

— minimum 183

Offsets 32

Olacinese 280

Oleaceae 209, 236, 237,

259, 265, 281, 287, 296, 325

Oleander 65, 66, 67

Olibanum tree 189

Olive, kuaurs on 64

—Wild 229

Onagraceae 212, 237, 280

Onion, top 30

— seed tests ... 10

Orchidaceae 158, 159, 160,

161, 162, 168, 170, 182, 183, 188, 190,
191, 193, 195, 198, 203, 215, 222, 225,
227, 230, 262, 268, 272, 274, 280, 281,
284, 296, 315, 321, 327, 328, 331, 336

Orchids 60

— seeds 20

Otaheite Apple or Plum . . 321

—Gooseberry 210

Othonna 287

Own-rooted trees . . .87, no, 153

Palay 334

Palmaceae 159, 175,

179, 181, 189, 190, 195,

201, 205, 214, 224, 227, 233 239,

259, 261, 265, 267, 271, 288, 298, 300,

305, 306, 308, 313, 327, 328, 331, 333

Pandanaceae 237, 289

Papaveraceae 175, 188,

230, 232, 272, 289, 311, 315

Papver seeds 8

Paper Mulberry 191

Page

Paradise stock 73, 74, 148

layering 39

Parnassus, Grass of 289

Parrot Beak 213

Parsley, Cow 252

Parsnip, Cow 252

Passiflora edulis 242

Passifloraceae 200, 2^2, 290

Passion Flower 290

Pastinaca sativa 289

Pea, Glory 213

— seed tests 10

Peach, stocks for 74

Peaches, budding 103

Peach- pits, treatment of . . . ,17

Peach root cuttings 61

Pear, Alligator or Avocado . 295

— root cuttings 61

— seeds, importing 19

Pears, dwarf 74, 133

— manuring 140, 141

—stocks for 75, 76, 77

Pea-tree 318

Siberian 200

Pedalineae 271, 318

Pegging down 37

Peninsula Hort. Soc., quoted . 82

Peony, grafting 128, 129

Pereskia species, stocks . . .231

Pfeiffera 310

Phaenocodon 262

Phalangium 169

Phoenix dactylifera 224

Phosnicophorum 179

Phosphoric acid in lands . . . 139

Phyllocereus 297

Phytolaccaceae 298, 311

Picotia 281

Piece-root-grafting 149

Pieron, mentioned 131

Pilophora 271

Pin-cushion Flower 316

Pine 299

—dwarfing 148

Pine-apple 60

36o

INDEX.

Page

Piperaceae 294, 299

Pipping 171

Pips 33

Pisum sativum 290

Pitch for waxes 136

Pittosporaceae 186, 300

Planer-tree 300

Plane-tree, knaur 64

Plantaginaceae 300

Plantain I^ily .238

Plastics 134

Platanacese 300

Plate-budding 105

Platyzamia 227

Plum, Coco 210

— dwarfing 148

Plumbaginacese 176, 303, 322

Plums for peach stocks ... 74

—manuring 140, 141

Podophyllum 33

Poiretia 255

Poke 298

Polemoniaceae ... . 200, 213,
267, 297, 303

Polygalaceae 262, 304

Polygonaceae 213, 275,

304, 310, 313, 320
Polygonum Sachalinense . . 313

Polypody 304

Pomme Blanche 306

Pontederia azurea 229

Pontederiacese 229, 304

Poplar 304

Poppy, California 232

— mallow 197

Porrum 164

Portugal Crakeberry 216

Portulacaceae .... 195, 265, 304

Potash in lands 139

—to clean seeds 18

Potato 32

Potatoes, cuttings 59, 60

Pot-layering 40

—Marigold 196

Prairie Clover 295

Page

Preparation of seeds 15

Prickly Comfrey 62

Primrose 305

—Cape 323

Primula Auricula 180

Primulaceae 167, 180,

217, 221, 228, 254, 269, 305, 319

Primula seeds 21

Privet, Mock 296

Prong-budding 105

Propagating-frames 45

Prosartes 227

Proteacese . . 182, 248, 250, 261, 295

Pruning trees 146

Prunus Amygdalus 164

— Americana 76

— Armeniaca 174

— Avium 206

— Besseyi 207

— Cerasus 206

— dasycarpa 174

— domestica 76

— Japonica 164

— Mahaleb 206

— Mume 174

— Pennsylvanica 207

— Persica 290

— Pissardi 76

— pumila 207

— Simonii 303

— species 300

Pseudo bulbs 60

Ptarmica . 159

Puccoon, Red 315

Punica Granatum 304

Purslane 304

Putty-Root 170

Pyrus Cathayensis 307

— communis 291

Pyrus Cydonia 307

— Germanica 272

—Japonica 3°7

— Malus 170

— Sinensis 291

Quaking Grass i&>

INDEX.

361

Page
Quince . . 62, 73, 74, 77, 78, 97, 133

Quinces, layering 39

Quince stocks 292

Raffia 101

Ragweed 317

Ragwort 287

Ranunculaceae 160, 161,

168,174, 179, 198, 211, 312, 215, 225,

231, 252, 279, 288, 308, 326, 329, 335

Ranunculus, Globe 329

Raphanus sativus 308

Raphia Ruffia 101

Rapunculus 298

Raspberry 35

Rattle-box 219

Recipes for wax 134

Red Puccoon 315

Redwood 317

Reed 177

--Mace 330

Regermination 9

Resedaceae 309

Resting of land 140, 141

Retinospora cuttings 64

Rhacoma 276

Rhamnaceae 186, 203,

255, 260, 288, 310

Rhizomes 32

R. I. Exp. Sta., seed testing . 14
Rhododendron, grafting . . .115

—seeds 20

Rhubarb 33

—cuttings 6r

Ribes aureum 220

— Grossularia 241

— nigrum 220

— oxyacanthoides 241

— rubrum 220

Rice, Indian or Wild .... 336

Ring-budding . . 106

Ringing layers 38

Roberts, quoted 139

Rock Cress 174

Rock-foil 316

Root cuttings 57, 60

Page

Root-grafted trees 148

—grafting .... 107, 109, 132, 148

Rooting of trees 150

Root-tip , . . 35, 36

Roots on cuttings 55

Rootstocks 32

Rosaceae 161, 163,

164, 166, 170, 174, 187, 193, 206, 210,
217, 218, 225, 233, 240, 260, 261, 266.
272,280, 290, 291, 297, 300, 305, 306,
307, 308, 312, 313, 321, 332, 333, 334

Rose 312

—Acacia 311

—Bay 310

—Moss 304

—seeds, treatment of 17

—stock 96

Roses 33

—cuttings 67, 68, 69

— graftage 76

Rosin-plant 318

Rosmarinus officinalis .... 313
Rowell, William M., quoted . 283

Rubiaceae 161, 178, 189,

190, 193, 203, 209, 211, 214, 219, 238,
250, 253, 255, 258, 268, 270, 279, 298

Rubus Canadensis 225

— occidentalis 308

— phcenicolasius 334

— strigosus 308

— trivialis 225

— villosus 187

— vitifolius 225

Rumex 320

Runners 35

Rush, flowering 193

Rutaceae 161, 162, 179,

189, 197, 209, 212, 226, 231, 241,

262, 264, 266, 282, 304, 306, 313, 335

Saccharum officinarum .... 324

Saccolabium 161, 296

Sacred Bean 278

Saddle-grafting . 113

Saghalin 313

Salicaceae 304, 314

362

INDEX.

Page

Sallow 314

— Thorn 253

Salmia 315

Salsify, Black 316

Salt-tree 250

Salvia officinalis 314

Sandal-tree 315

Sand Myrtle 264

—Verbena 158

Sandwort 175

Sapindacese 159, 162,

262, 273, 278, 321, 335

Sapotaceae 210, 258, 315

Sarcocarpon 260

Sarcogonum 275,

Sarraceniacese 224, 315

Satin Flower 379

Satureia hortensia 315

— montana 315

Saxifragaceae 1 60, 178,

220, 224, 225, 237, 241,
252, 256, 258, 289, 296, 311, 316, 327

Saxifrage 316

Scalding seeds 17

Scandix cerefolium 208

Scheeria 159

Scitamineae 182, 196, 199,

217, 220, 251, 271, 275, 323, 336
Schaefell's healing paint ... 138

Schoenoprasum 164

Sclarea 314

Screens, for seeds 5

Scrophulariaceae 165, 1 68,

169, 191, 196, 205, 226, 231, 239, 266,
272, 274, 290, 294, 313, 314, 328, 331

Sea Buckthorn 253

— Lavender 322

—Pink 176, 322

Seedage i

Seeds 1-25

—aquatic 21

—cleaning 18

— depth to sow 21

Alight on 8

•-moisture f or . , . . . x

Page

Seeds, moss for 20, 21

—scalding 17

— soil for 20

— sowing 20

—stratifying 15

— temperature for 7

— testing 9

— transporting 19

Seed-grafting 131

Selaginellas 24

Separation 26

Serangium 274

Serpentine layering 37

Shade for seeds 5, 6, 7

Shield-budding 95

— grafting 116

Shin-leaf 306

Shed screens 6, 7

Siberian Crab 75, 76

— Pea-tree 200

Side-graft 115, 116

Silkweed 177

Silver fir 157

—sand 54

— weed 176

Simarubaceae 163, 191, 307

Sinapis species 276

Sium Sisarum 319

Skoke 298

Slat screens 6

Slip 65

Smoke Vine 161

Snake Gourd 329

—root, Button 265

Snowdrop Tree 250

Soaking seeds 2, 3, 16, 17

Soils, adapting to by graftage . 74

— for cuttings 54

Soil for seeds 20

Soils, management 139

Solanaceae 179, 205,

222, 229, 269, 270,
279, 295, 296, 297, 304, 316, 319, 328

Solanum Melongena 229

— tuberosum 304

INDEX.

363

Page
Solomon's Seal, False 319
Southernwood 176, 334
Sowbread 221
Sowing seeds 20
Spanish Lime 273
Spawn 31
Spencer, Herbert, quoted ... 86
Sphagnum for seeds 20
Spinacia oleracea 321
Spireas 33, 69, 70
Splice-grafting 113
Spoke 298
Spores, sowing 21, 24
Sprouting chamber 14
— cups 1/1

Sweet Gale

Page

• • 277
. . 266
• • 32
• • 59
. .198
. -165
. .296
- .325
• -325
. -326
. .326
. -326
. . 223
. . 138

— fiurn . .

—Potato
cuttings
Sweet-scented Shrub . .
Verbena
Syringa (Philadelphus) .
Taccacese
Tamarind

Tamariscineae
Tamarisk
Tanacetum vulgare . . .
Taraxicum officinale . .
Tar for wounds

Tear Tree

. . 222

—of trees
Spruce, dwarfing . .

M7
148

Telanthera Bettzichiana
Temperature for seeds .
Ternstroemiacese
201, 242,
Testing of seeds ....
Texas Exp. Sta., quoted
Thistle, Globe
Thomas knife

. .165

• • 7
1 60, 198,
323. 326
• • 9
. .105
. .229

. . I2O

Spurge

St. Domingo Apricot
St. John's Bread . .
St Peter's Wort

. .... 270
2OI
325

Stag's-Horn Fern . .
Starwort
Statistics of nurseries
Stem cuttings ....
—grafting
Sterculiaceae
263
Stick of buds ....
Stingless Nettle . . .
Storax
Storing of trees . . .
Stork's Bill
Stramonium

I?8

94
62
107
. . 158, 261,
269, 322, 327
97
298
324
M3
294
224

Thorn, for pear stock . .
—seeds, treatment of ...
Throatwort
Thuya cuttings
Thymelaeaceae . . 223, 227,
Thymus vulgaris ....

• • 77
• 17, 18
. -328
. . 64
262, 323
• • 327

Thyrse Flower
Tiger Flower
Tiliaceae 248,
Tip

• .327
• -327
320, 328

•3C -36

Toadflax

266

Stratification

Tomato, cleaning seeds .
— seed test

. . 18
10

String for tying . . .
— waxed
Strawberry Tomato .
Straw, for heeling-in
Stub
Styracacese
Suckers

. . ioo, 103

137
297
.... I46

. . . . 118
250, 324, 325
.... 60
.... 142
.... 145

. . . 215

— Tree, of Jamaica . . . .
Tongueing
Tools for grafting . . . .
Toothpicks for cuttings . .
Toothwort
Top-grafting
Tornelia

. . 222

• • 38
119, I2O
. . 67
. . 225
107, 122
• -274
. . 22
. . 11A.

Sulphate of ammonia
Sulphur for fungus .
Sweet Fern .

Tracy planter
Traeroooaon oorrifolius .

364

INDEX.

106
329

220

Page
Transportation of seeds ... 19

Treed lands 140

Tree Tomato of Jamaica . . .222
Trigonella Foenum-Graecum . 234

Trimming trees 146

Triplet I,ily 329

Tropical Almond 326

Trumpet I<eaf 315

Tsuga Canadensis 252

Tubers 32

Tuber cuttings 59

Tubular-budding ....

Tulip

Turmeric

Turnip, seed tests ....

Turtle-head 205

Twig-budding 105

Tying of buds 100

Typhaceae 330

Umbelliferae 160, 168,

193. 203, 208, 216, 219,
226, 232, 234, 252, 268, 277, 289, 319

Umbrella Pine 316

—tree 269

Unions, of grafted plants ... 87

Upland Cress 182

Urticaceae 177, 191,

200, 228, 235, 236,
255, 269, 275, 298, 300, 330

Vaccaria 315

Vaccinium macrocarpon ... 218

Valerian 330

Valerianaceae 216, 330

Valerianella 216

Variegation and graf tage ... 77

Variegations 62, 72

Veneer-budding 106

—grafting 113

Veneer-graft union 88

Verbena, I,emon 165

Verbenaceae 165, 189,

196, 201, 212, 262, 266, 331, 333
Vermin, to protect from . . . 146

Vervain 331

Vetch, Bitter 287

Vetch, Kidney

—Milk

Vetchling

Viburnum, dwarfs . . . .

—layer

— treatment of seeds . . .
Viburnums, cuttings of . .

Vicia Faba

— sativa

Violaceae

Violet

Virility of grafted plants .

Viscaria

Vitaceae 166,

Vochysiaceae

Wake-Robin

Wall Cress

Walnut, grafting

Walnuts, treatment of . .

Water Bean

—Caltrops

— Chinquapin

— I,ily seeds

— Plantain

—Platter

Waxberry

Waxes

Wax Myrtle

Waxing the wounds . . .

Weeping trees

Weigela

Wendlandia

Whip-graft union

— grafting

Whistle-budding

White Hellebore

Whitlow Grass

Whole-root-grafting . . .

Wild Hyacinth

— Rice

Willow cuttings

Window-garden plants . .

Wintera

Winter Aconite

— budding

Page

.169
. 179
.263
.148

• 17, 18

• • 55

• -334

• -331
257, 332

• -332
. . 90
. . 268

211, 242

• • 333

• -329
. . 174
. . 131

. .278

. .328

. . 278

. . 21

. .163

• -332

• • 325

• • 134

• • 277
. . 122

• • 73
. 67, 68

. .213

. 1 08
. 106

•331
. 228

. -316

• -336
• 55, 56
. 65, 67

. . 228

- - 231
. . 105

INDEX.

365

Page

Yarrow . .

Page
. . . . 159

Wintergreen
Winter Olive
Wolf's Bane
Wounds waxes for

. .238,316
. ... 229
. . . . 160
J37

Yews from cuttings . .
Youtb-and Old-Age . .
Yucca cuttings ....
Zea Mays

. ... 64
. . . .336
. ... 65
. . 276

Woundwort
Wrightia (Wallichia) .
Xvlosteum .

. ... 321

• ••• 333
.268

Zephyr Flower ....
Zerumbet
Zveroohvllaceae .

. . . .336
- . - -336

• 24&. 336

CYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN
HORTICULTURE

Oct. 3. Recitation, Graftage;

pp. 73-81. (Prelimin-
ary shrub report.)

Oct. 8. 'Lecture. Oral quiz on
practice work.

Oct. 10. Recitation, Graftage; pp.
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Oct. 24. Recitation, Grafting;

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those questions which arise in his experience, and will prove an invaluable
aid in countless directions." — The Farmer's Voice.

Dairy Chemistry

Illustrated. 190 pages. $1 net ; by mail, $1.10.

"The book is a valuable one which any dairy farmer, or, indeed, anyone
handling stock, may read with profit."— Rur a I New Yorker.

Soils and Fertilizers

Third Edition. Illustrated. $1.25 net; by mail, $1.38

A book which presents in a concise form the principles of soil fer-
tility and discusses all of the topics relating to soils as outlined by
the Committee on Methods of Teaching Agriculture. It contains
350 pages, with illustrations, and treats of a great variety of sub-
jects, such as Physical Properties of Soils; Geological Formation,
etc.; Nitrogen of the Soil and Air; Farm Manures; Commercial
Fertilizers, several chapters; Rotation of Crops; Preparation of
Soil for Crops, etc.

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY

64-66 Fifth Avenue NEW YORK

NEW BOOKS FOR THE fARM LIBRARY

MR. BOLTON HALL'S

Three Acres and Liberty

The author discusses the possibilities of an acre ; where to find
idle land; how to select it, clear and cultivate it; the results
to be expected; what an acre may produce; methods, tools,
equipment, capital, hotbeds and greenhouses; other uses of
land ; flowers ; poultry and novel live stock ; and nearly every
other imaginable topic of intensive farming in clear, definite
statements which are easily verified. It is a practical book
from cover to cover. Cloth. Illustrated. $1.75 net, by mail, $1.88.

By ALLEN FRENCH

A Book of Vegetables and Garden Herbs

A Practical Handbook and Planting Table for the Home Garden
This book gives complete directions for growing all vege-
tables cultivable in the climate of the northern United States.
Besides a description of each plant, its habit, value, and use,
the book contains detailed cultural directions, covering the
soil, planting distances, times for sowing, thinning and trans-
planting, fertilizing, picking, winter protection, renewal,
storage, and management of diseases and pests.

Cloth. 12mo. Illustrated. $1.75 net, by mail, $1.88.

By KATE V. ST. MAUR

A Self-supporting Home

" Ejiib. chapter is the detailed account of all the work necessary for one
month — in the vegetable garden, among the small fruits, with the fowls,
guineas, rabbits, cavies, and in every branch of husbandry to be met with on
the small farm." — Loui$ville Courier-Journal.

Cloth. 12mo. Fully illustrated from photographs.
$1.75 net, by mail, $1.88.

By W. S. HARWOOD

The New Earth

A Recital of the Triumphs of Modern Agriculture in America.
Mr. Harwood shows in a very entertaining way the remark-
able progress which has been made during the past two gen-
erations along all the lines which have their focal point in
the earth. Cloth. ]2mo> illustrated. $1.75 net, by mail, 1.8S,

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY

64-66 Fifth Avenue NEW YORK

CYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN
AGRICULTURE

Edited by L. H. BAILEY

Of Cornell University, Editor of "Cyclopedia c.' American Horticulture,"
Author of "Plant Breeding," "Principles of Agriculture," etc.

WITH 100 FULL-PAGE PLATES AND MORE THAN 2,000 ILLUS-
TRATIONS IN THE TEXT -FOUR VOLUMES — THE SET •
CLOTH, $20 NET-HALF-MOROCCO, $32 NET-CARRIAGE EXTRA

Volume I— Farms

The Agricultural Regions— The Projecting of a Farm— The Soil
Environment— The Atmosphere Environment.

Volume II — Crops

The Plant and Its Relations— The Manufacture of Crop Products-
North American Field Crops.

Volume III— Animals

The Animal and Its Relations — The Manufacture of Animal Prod*
ucts — North American Farm Animals.

Volume IV— The Farm and the Community

Economics — Social Questions — Organizations — History — Litera
ture, etc.

"Indispensable to public and reference libraries . . . readily compreheai.
Bible to any person of average education." — The Nation.
"The completest existing thesaurus of up-to-date facts and opinions oh
modern agricultural methods. It is safe to say that many years must pass
before it can be surpassed in comprehensiveness, accuracy, practical value?
and mechanical excellence. It ought to be in every library in the country.'
—Record Herald, Chicago.

Published by

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY

64-66 Fifth Avenue NEW YORK

14 DAY USE

RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED
LANDSCAPE A P^»TTT '-»••» TRE LIBRARY

This book is due on the last date stamped below, or|

on the date to which renewed.
Renewed books are subject to immediate recall.

AUG 3 1 1961

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Full text of "The nursery-book : a complete guide to the multiplication of plants"

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