On the entomology and uses of silk : with a list of the families, genera, and species of silk producers known up to the present date

■

^^^^^^^^

IHH

1

THE ENTOMOLOGY

USES OF SIL

. VVARDLE.

AV.

0

LIBRARY

^NSSACHt,^^^

1895

BOCtt '.

Y 's^; r

NORTH STAFFORDSHIRE NATURALISTS' FIELD CLUB
AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY.

ANNIVERSARY ADDRESS

OF THE PRESIDENT,

THOMAS WARDLE,

Fellow of the Chemical Society ; Fellow of the Geological Society ;

Fellow of the Imperial Institute ;

Member of Council of the Pal.^ontographical Society ;

Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur of France ;

Officier D'Acadbmie of France ;

Membke du Jury de l'Industrie de la Soie a l'Expositions

Univehselles a Paris, 1878 and 1889 ;

Honorary Superintendent of the Indian Silk Culture Court of the

Colonial and Indian Exhibition, London, 1886 ;

Chairman of the Silk Section of the Royal Jubilee Exhibition,

Manchester, 1887 ;

One of the Examiners to the City and Guilds of London Institute ;

President of the Silk Association of Great Britain

AND Ireland ;

President of the North Staffordshire Naturalists' Field Club

AND ArCH^OLOGICAL SOCIETY.

ENTOMOliOKY MD USES OP SILiK;

with a

LIST OF THE FAMILIES, GENERA, AND SPECIES OF

SILK PRODUCERS,

KNOWN UP TO THE PRESENT DATE.

lUfcacastk-nnber-^ijiiie :

G. T. BAGGULEY, printer, HIGH STREET.

Itl

THE ENTOMOLOGY AND USES OF SILK,

THOMAS WARDLE, F.C.S., F.G.S.

I feel that a great compliment has been paid to me to-night in
having been unanimously asked to occupy the Presidential Chair
for another year.

I have accepted this honour with some reluctance, because it is
possible for one man to be in the same office too long, and that more
useful members are thereby prevented having the opportunity of
giving valuable services to this Association, and through it, to
Science.

I beg, however, to thank you all, ladies and gentlemen, for your
confidence in me, which is, at the same time an endorsement of
your satisfaction for the past year, and your trust in me that I
shall do my best during the present year.

My affections are very much bound up in this North Stafford-
shire Field Club and Archaeological Association, for several
important reasons.

First, that we are all lovers of Natural History, and admirers of
the glorious world of nature ; collaborateurs of those in the past
who have tried to discover some of her mysterious laws, and those
of the present and future, who are, and who ever will l3e, finding
for themselves untold pleasure in the investigation of those forces
which have such manifold play, and with such varying and
wonderful results as can only be completely known to the Great
Architect of a Universe who made " all things visible and invisible ;"

0 1? "^

from the worlds which we are permitted to see afar, to those
beyond, in iUimitable space, to the lesser world in which we live,
and which we are permitted to examine, and to take pleasure
therein.

I have often thought of that unique and comprehensive ex-
pression in the creed of St. Athanasius, " maker of all things
visible and invisible." Of things visible, how much more do we not
now know than the framer of the phrase, of the constitution of the
earth's crust ; the structure, functions and properties of plants, the
whole animal world, and the insight we have been able to obtain
as to their composition by the aid of chemical science.

Of the ^' things invisible " what vast revelations have been given
to us by the microscope, since the day which first heard the
recitation of that article of our faith, revelations even to the very
gate of that knowledge by which the origin and cause of life is
centred.

The revealing to sight of that formidable world of bacteria, their
functions, uses and dangers, is progress which would hardly be
credible to the old observers of natural science and history. Our
love for this progressive knowledge is inborn ; from Adam, who
is recorded to have had the beasts of the field and the fowls of the
air brought to him to see what he would call them ; "■ and the man
gave names to all cattle, and to the fowls of the air; and whatsoever
the man called them, that was the name thereof." How, since that
ancient past, has that naming been continued ; and how we are yet
infected with the desire to find a new species, and to add a new
name to an already vast nomenclature !

Of Solomon it is written that ''he spake of trees, from the cedar
tree that is in Lebanon even unto the hyssop that springeth out of
the wall. He spake also of beasts, of fowl, of creeping things, and
of fishes." (1st Kings, iv, 33 v.) And we are reminded, at least
those of us who heard of our friend Mr. Carr's eloquent recital of
the Talmud story of the bees, on the Sunday afternoon under the
trees at Clumber last year, in words partly his own, of Solomon's
knowledge of insects.

As our Annual Meeting is not rigidly confined to Science, but a
friendly occasion to report progress, perhaps you will pardon me if
I read these verses ; they are sure to interest at least those who
have not heard them before : —

When Solomon was reigning in his glory,
Unto his throne the Queen of Sheba came,
(So in the Talmud you may read the story)
Drawn by the magic of the monarch's fame.
To see the splendours of his court ; and bring
Some fitting tribute to the mighty King.

Nor this alone ; much had her Highness heard
What flowers of learning graced the royal speech ;
What gems of wisdom dropped with every word ;
What wholesome lessons he was wont to teach
In pleasing proverbs ; and she wished, in sooth,
To know if rumour spoke the simple truth.

Besides, the Queen had heard (which piqued her most)
How through the deepest riddles he could spy ;
How all the curious arta that women boast
Were quite transparent to his piercing eye,
And so the Queen had come— a royal guest —
To put the sage's cunning to the test.

And straight she held before the monarch's view,
In either hand, a radiant wreath of flowers ;
The one bedecked with every charming hue,
Was newly culled from nature's choicest bowers ;
The other, no less fair in every part,
Was only wrought by imitative art.

" Which is the true and which the false," she said.

Great Solomon was silent. All -amazed,

Each wondering courtier shook his puzzled head.

While at the garlands long the monarch gazed,

As one who sees a miracle, and fain,

For very rapture, ne'er would speak again.

'• Which is the true," once more the woman asked,
(Pleased at the fond amazement of the king,)
" So wise a head should not be hardly taxed,
Most learned liege, with such a trivial thing ; "
But still the sage was silent ; it was plain
A deepening doubt perplexed the royal brain.

While thus he ponders, presently he sees,
Hard by the casement (so the story goes),
A little band of busy, bustling bees
Hunting for honey in a Sharon rose.
The monarch smiled, and raised his royal head ;
" Open the window 1 " that was all he said.

The window opened at the King's command,
Within the room the eager insects flew.
And sought the flowers in Sheba's dexter hand.
And so the King and all the courtiers knew
That wreath was natures ; and the baffled Queen
Returned to tell the wonders she had seen.

6

My story teaches (every tale should bear

A fitting moral) that the wise may find

In trifles, light as atoms in the air,

Some useful lesson to enrich the mind ;

Some truth designed to profit or to please.

As Israel's King learned wisdom from the bees !

Apropos of bees and apiculture, I learned the other day from the
Board of Trade, that a bee must visit 218,750 flowers for each ounce
of honey gathered, and that the largest beekeeper in the world is
Mr. Harbicon, of California, who possesses 6,000 hives, supplying
200,000 lbs. of honey per annum. The United States is the
greatest honey producing country in the world ; it has 2,800,000
hives belonging to 70,000 rearers, and producing annually 61,000,000
lbs. of honey. An enemy of the bees is a friend of mine, the larvae
of the moth Galleria cerella, creeping into the hive and boring into
the honey cells, feed upon the honey ; they make silken cocoons in
the cells from which the moths emerge, as you may see in this case.

In the two-fold objects for which the Field -Naturalist part of
this Association exists, namely, the praise of nature by our ob-
servation of it in our excursions, and in the examination into its
constituent parts, we have the encouragement of a greater teacher
than the two I. have just mentioned ; He who bid us consider the
lilies of the field ; how they grow ; that they toil not, neither do
they spin, and that yet Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like
one of these ; and in so considering do we not forget our toil and
the care of to-morrow whilst enjoying the collective and diversified
enquiries which occupy us in our monthly Excursions, both amongst
the lilies of the field and the birds and denizens of the air and
landscape ; but our attention and pleasure is not confined to the
history which is termed natural ; there is also a living history, so
to speak, of our own race as seen in the various forms of sepulture,
defense, worship, and of later times, of residence, with which our
County abounds.

To these, not only our interest but our study and care is given,
and the County owes us no small debt of gratitude for bringing
before it, by patient and long continued investigation and descrip-
tion, the instruction to be derived and imparted by those of our
members who so very ably and lovingly give themselves to the
duty.

These are our raisons d'etre for the establishment and continuation
of this Association, whose work last year will I think compare
favourably with that of the past, and whose future is full of

7

promise and encouragement to both young and old enquirers after
truth.

Another thought should give us hope and determination. The
example of the untiring and valuable work done in our Association,
by the late Mr. Garner especially, and many others whose record
is to be found in our annual reports. Amongst others of our present
time T shall mention only four out of a goodly com{)any of zealous
workers : — Drs. Arlidge and McAldowie, our former Presidents,
who have so distinguished themselves by their thoughtful and
learned contributions to our Annals ; Mr. Lynam, whose portrait
ought to be painted with a drawn sword in his hand, keeping ofi
the restoring vandals from our ancient cam})s and beautful medigeval
architecture, all traces of which he so jealously guards, in order that
we may enjoy what I call the visible and veritable history of our
County unmarred by the falsifying process so happily expressed by
the Germans " Kestaurirt ist ruinirt."

Lastly, no greater encouragement can be given to the continuance
of our collective work than in the splendid constancy and devotion
given ibr nearly thirty years by our excellent Secretary, the main-
spring of our success and work. He has the happy knack of
welding together all sorts and conditions of men and women into
a joyous and harmonious whole, until we know nothing of '' classes
and masses,'" and I am sure I shall be expressing the opinions of
every member of our (Jlub and Association, that his name will live
in the annals of the County long after many of its principal actors
are forgotten. To him our earnest and grateful thanks are due,
and I have long wished for an unbidden opportunity of expressing
my convictions in this respect.

With such associationship as I have mentioned, permit me to
advocate a devoted and earnest determination of each and every
member, particularly the young, to try to be present at each
Excursion, and if possible to beat past records in field-work and
observation.

There is much to do that is new ; our sectional work needs
strengthening. 1 think the Geological Section, if I may say so,
carried off the palm last year. I wish the members of other Sections
could catch the enthusiasm which inspired us last year in tracking
a volcanic dyke mostly hidden, from Trentham to Swinnerton,
where we may say we fell literally and really into a trap, well a
trap-pit, in the shape of a huge quarry of upheaved larva, and
returned laden with ashes, and information healthily sought.

8

Having said this much, mainly hoping to stimulate our new and
younger members to follow up the work of the older votaries of
knowledge seeking, I will turn to the subject of my Presidential
Address.

I have selected for consideration the study of a delightful part
of entomology, which has a beautiful, important and economic
outcome. The title of my paper is " The Entomology and uses of
iSilk."

I have selected this subject because it is one at which I have of
late worked most, and in both aspects I have for some years been
collecting silk-producers, not so much for their interesting larval
forms, or for the great beauty and variety of their imago states, but
in order to study the structure and physical properties of the fibres
which their larvae seriposit for a covering and protection during
the time they assume their torpid chrysalide state, a covering,
which, to serve economic ends, is from a few species, ruthlessly torn
by man to provide in other forms and in other colours, fabrics and
trimmings for human coverings and adornment, as well as of thread
to sew them with.

When I began this delightful and interesting study many years
ago, my knowledge of silkworms, their moths and cocoons, was
limited to about 20 species, and they chiefly Indian. It was then
known only to a few entomologists that there existed many species
of silk secreting catterpillars in England and elsewhere To-day,
after a world-wide search, I am able to hand a new list to our Field
Club of 27 families, numbering 170 genera, with at least 630
species, all of which make silken coverings, but often as varied
in shape, size, build and differences of fibre, as the appearance of
their moths, the last stage in the curious life-history of this class of
insects .

Of these 630 species, there are some exhibiting wonderful
characteristics. There is the tiny caterpillar of the smaller moths,
not more than half an inch in length, and from this can be shown
larvse of all sizes, up to the giant Tussur, two of which I took out
of a Terminalia Tree in a Missionary's garden in the Manblioom
Jungles of Bengal, each 5 inches in length and | of an inch in
thickness. I hope to show a representation of one of them on the
screen presently. Then there are the catterpillars which lead a
solitary life, aud shroud themselves in their silken envelopes when
they happen to have arrived at caterpillar maturity ; not so with
other species, for there is the Cricula Trifenestrata of India, which

9

lives in companionship with its fellows, and when cocoon -making
time comes, they work side by side, interlacing their silken threads
until they lie hidden in a colony as you see them here.

Others like this specimen from Africa, first weave a bag of silk,
then go inside to envelop themselves singly with a separate cocoon.
This bag is full of them.

Another species is of a more military order. Its members never
take their walks alone or in pairs, but always in line, one leading
the rest, even if hundreds are following and so closely that they
look like a long length of coloured cord along the ground or upon
a tree, a most remarkable sight of gregarious habit.

I brought some home last year from the woods of Monte Carlo,
and one evening I went to my greenhouse and found them on their
slow march exactly in a straight line, in single file, nose to tail,
along the top of the hot water pipes. In the Riviera you may see
hundreds of their bulbous cobwebby bunches in the fir trees ; these
are their hiding places. They rest in them in the day and come
out at night to feed upon the firs. These white bunches are their
houses of silk, tied from all points to the fir branches Some of
them are larger than footballs. The insect is known by the name
of Bombyx, or more properly, Cnethocampa processionea. Its silk
has not been turned to any profitable account, but it could be used
for spinning ; it could not be reeled like the cocoon of the Bombyx
Mori.

There is a caterpillar in Demerara whose legs only go half the
length of his body ; he goes about like a snail with his house on
his hinder parts, the leg portion of his body for crawling, the
legless part carrying his cocoon.

But I should weary you if I attempted to recount a hundredth
part of the list up to date I have brought here.

With the multitudinous variety of moths you are well acquainted,
with their enchanting shapes and colours, and with their pretty
patterned wings, so I will content myself with showing you a few
of the more important and interesting species on the screen at the
conclusion of my paper.

Silk is also produced by many species of spiders, also by the
larvae of the Ichneumem flies. On the table is an interesting
collection of these flies whose larvye have laid their eggs in the

10

bodies of caterpillars. After the caterpillars have made their
cocoons and passed into the chrysalide state, the tiny ichneumen
eggs hatch and their larvae surround themselves with a silken
thread 6 or 8 times finer than the Bombyx fibre, until a small
cocoon results in considerable numbers not larger than rice grains,
and occupying the interior of the large cocoon to the destruction of
the chrysalis. : [In day time these ichneumen flies emerge from their
little silken shrouds, and eat their way through the silken prison of
the larger cocoon.

Another class of insects, the Coccidae much studied by Mr.
Newstead of Chester, also make tiny cocoons which very much
resemble silk, under the microscope, but the fibres, which dissolve
in turpentine, prove them to be of a waxy and not a silken nature.
There is a small collection on the table. These Coccids are found
on grass and on the bark of trees.

And now I will as briefly as I can, touch upon their uses to man.
First comes the little Bombyx Mori, whose caterpillars yield us the
ordinary silk of commerce, from which the finest fabrics are made ;
whose ancestors found such favour with the wives and daughters ol
Chinese Emperors thousands of years ago, that they delighted
themselves in unwinding the silk from the cocoons and in making
it into threads for embroidery and for textile work, also in dyeing
it, and afterwards in weaving it into patterned fabrics. For cen-
turies in ancient times, it was the pleasure and pride of high-born
ladies to broider and weave. Thus in the 3rd lUiad : —

" Meantime to beauteous Helen from the skies,
The various goddess of the rainbow flies.
Here in the palace at her loom she found,
The golden web her own sad story crown 'd ;
The Trojan wars she weav'd, herself the prize,
And the dire triumph of her fatal eyes."

I have here two very small pieces of silk, both found in Egypt
in ancient Christian Coptic graves by my friend Mr. Flinders
Petrie, the renowed Egyptian explorer. One is of the 4th century,
found at Achmim, and is ornamented all over with Maltese-shaped
crosses. I have had it reproduced in Germany. The other is of
the 6th century, found at Fayum ; it is a very interesting specimen
of weaving in'^stripes It is, too, remarkable for the beauty and
permanence of the dyes to which it owes its colour. I have brought
a reproduction of it, recently woven in Scotland, the herring-bone
texture of weaving is copied, also the stripes and the dyes and
colours are exactly reproduced. That the colours should have stood

11

imfaded for thirteen hundred years is marvellous, and proves the
excellence of their dyes, and the high perfection in tinctorial art of
their dyers.

SCRAPS OF SILK HISTORY.

More is known of the early history of silk in the West than in
the East, but dating only from Classic Greek and Roman times.

Aristotle wrote on the life changes of the Silkworm, and gives to
Pamphile, the daughter of Plates, the honour of first reeling silk
on bobbins for weaving into gauzy fabrics, which made the Island
of Cos famous in history and song, for the Coan vest was the most
prized garment of the classic lady. It was so transparent that it
allowed the body to be seen through its clinging folds; and Horace
says of it : —

"As if unclothed she stands confessed
In a transparent Coan vest.

TibuUus speaks of a Coan vest for girls : —

" She may these garments wear, which female Coan hands
Have woven, and in stripes disposed the golden bands."

A statue to Vertumnus had this inscription on its base : —

" My nature suits each changing form,
Turned into what you please I'm fair,
Clothe me in Coan. I'm a decent lass,
Put on a toga, for a man I pass."

Plutarch dissuades the prudent wife from wearing silk. Martial
speaks of silken fillets for the hair and other silken goods being sold
at the Viscus Tuscus at Rome. Galen recommends silk thread for
the tying up of blood vessels ; America now parades this as her
new surgical invention ; verily there is nothing new under the sun !
Heliogabalus was the first Roman to wear a holosericum or robe of
silk ; he also kept by him a silken rope of purple and scarlet to
hang himself with when the day of his destiny was over. In the
reign of Tiberius, women of rank only were allowed to wear eastern
silks, " oriental sericum." Aurelian refused his Empress a silken
shawl she coveted, because of its costliness, weight for weight in
gold. But Julius Caesar used silken curtains, and wore silk, when
he appeared in public, dyed with the purple of Tyre, the product
of Murex Trunculus and Murex Brandaris, two species of Mediter-
ranean shell-fish. There is also a third. Purpura lapilla, and all are

12

found from Italy to Tyre, A Nicaraguan species, named Purpura
patula, and our own common whelk, also yield the dye. In the
days of Marcus Aurelius Antonius, shawls and robes, and scarves
had so accumulated in the silk presses of the various empresses,
that he, being a philosopher and economic ruler, sold them all by
public auction in the Forum of Trojan, to help the exhausted
treasuries. The early Christians protested against the luxury of
silk. Cyprian, the Bishop of Carthage, said, " Those who put on
silk and purple cannot put on Christ."

There is preserved in the Edict of Diocletian in A.D. 303, the
maximum prices allowed by him for tailoring in silk, as follows : —

To the tailor for silk lining a fine vest 6 denarii.

To the same for an opening and edging of silk 50 denarii.

To the same for an opening and edging with
stuff made of a mixed tissue of silk and
flax 30 denarii.

Mrs. Lynn Linton, the accomplished novelist and authoress, who
has written three charming and learned papers on silk in the
" Queen " for the month of January, which I cordially recommend
you all to read, and from which I have gathered the above historical
particulars, thus winds up her first paper : — " Silk, then, was both
known and used in the later days of Rome. It was the sign of
corruption and effeminacy. It had to fight its way into general
acceptance against all the forces of simplicity and virtue which were
associated with wool and linen arrayed against silk. But the wheel
rolled on, and the prohibitions and prejudices were finally removed,
till now the very beggar-woman at your door has something of silk
about her, and the material which an emperor refused to his
empress, the vagrant and the pauper toss on to the dust-heap when
they have done with it."

Coming down to mediaeval times, we find Constantinople the
chief seat of the European silk trade. In Justinian's time it had got
no further westward. He limited the price of silk to £4 15s. 9d.
per lb., and when dyed imperial purple its price was quadrupled.
The Christian clergy gradually became captivated by its beauty,
and blessing superseded anathema. Abbot Benedict, in 685, went
to Rome to buy silks. St. Cuthbert, we know^, was buried in the
7th century at Landisfarne Island, and was in the 13th century
disinterred and re-buried at Durham Cathedral, first being re-robed
in silks which may be seen now in that Cathedral, and reproduc-
tions of which, by the kindness of Canon Green well, I have been

13

able to print and bring here. And so on up to to-day, the Church
has become the nursing mother of all that is beautiful in design,
and colouring, and in texture of silk, and so it should be to give
God our best.

Let us turn now to the silk of the present day. I will not weary
you with the history of the introduction of silk manufacture into
England. I have here a specimen of blue and red silk from a deed
of the time of Richard I., A.D. 1190, which was used as an attach-
ment to a large wax seal. Both the silk and the dyes are interesting.
The blue is woad, the ancient English blue dye. The poet Dyer,
who wrote in the early part of the last century, thus mentions it : —

" Our valleys yield not, or but sparing' yield

The dyers' gay materials. Only weld,

Or root of madder, here, or purple woad.

By which our naked ancestors obscur'd

Their hardy limbs, inwrought with mystic forms

Like Egypt's obelisks."

The red is Kermes, an ancient colour produced by the oak-
feeding insect, Coccus queicus. It was generally used for this
purpose in those days in Europe before the introductionof Cochineal
from Mexico into Spain by the Spaniards in 1543, and practised
at Bow, where it became celebrated as the Bow dye. Its intro-
ucdtion into Italy was not until 1548, five years later. It was soon

the downfall of Kermes, which, although generally now disused, is
still found and used in Tripuliza in Greece. Pardon this digression,
but it is difficult for a dyer to disassociate dyeing from silk.
From the time when the persecuted Hugenots brought to us them-
selves and their trades at the time of the persecution of the
protestants in Flanders and France in the latter half of the sixteenth
century, and again in 1685, at the revocation of the Edict of Nantes,
we have been a silk manufacturing country. These epochs gave us
a silk industry, as well as many other arts and crafts. The old
rhyme sings : —

'' Hops, Reformation, bays, and beer
Came into England all in a year."

Very varying have been the vicissitudes of our silk industry.
Spitalfields, almost the oldest centre, still maintains its artistic
prestige as these gorgeous and artistic surroundings show. My
friends, Messrs. Warner and Sons, have to-day done the Field Club
a signal service in lending these beautiful examples of brocades,
damasks and brocatelles, unrivalled for texture, pattern and colour-

14

ing by any silks of the kind T have ever seen in France, and my
opportunities of judging, having served on the Silk Juries of the
great Paris Exhibitions of 1878 and 1889, have not been small.
The same must be said for these splendid brocades and figured stuffs
for Church furniture and dress purposes, made and kindly lent to us
by my artistic friend Mr. George Bermingham, Silk Manufacturer,
of Leek. These will show that England can and does manufacture
silk equal for every possible requirement, and emphatically bears
protest against the false assertions of the middleman that good
siUis can only be had from France.

One of my objects in choosing this subject, has been the hope of
enlisting your sympathy and patriotism, the ladies particularly, in
favour of British silks, and to ask you to help the efforts of the
Silk Association of Great Britain and Ireland (of which I have the
honour of being President), and of the Ladies National Silk As-
sociation, presided over by H.R.H. the Duchess of Teck, with Lady
Egerton of Tatton, as Honorary Secretary, whose object is to solicit
the membership of all ladies who will agree only to ask for British
silks when they want to buy silk of any kind ; still not pledging
themselves to buy such silk if they do not find it as cheap, as
durable, and as artistic, as foreign silk.

This Ladies Association is spreading rapidly ; already the looms
of Spitalfields and Macclesfield are again busy, and we hope for a
great revival in the other time-honoured centres. The looms of
Spitalfields and Patricroft were merry with the sound of shuttles
only a few sad months ago, when the Duchess of Teck gave orders
that all silks for the Royal wedding should be home made and not
foreign. Here is a sj^ecimen of it with May blossoms woven in
silver. Alas ! that the looms should have been stopped in the
middle of their work and their shuttles made to weave for woe
instead of bridal joy !

In conclusion, I am reminded of the Ancient Grecian story of
Minerva and Arachne, which tells that in the days when purple
was rare and highly appraised ; the dye very hard withal to extract
from its tiny gland in the shelly Murex, which but hardly yielded
its tinctured drop of costly colour, there lived by Lydia's shores,
Idmon the purple dyer, in his craft renowned for skill. He had a
daughter whose name was Arachne, famed for her art in spinning
and broidery, but who acknowledged not her obligations to and
dependency upon, great Jove's daughter, Minerva ; (in the Greek
mythology Minerva was called Pallas Athene, the goddess of the
liberal arts) ; but disdainfully challenged her to a contention of

15

skill. They met, the story tells, to weave their separate thoughts
with fixed warp and bobbins of weft, each in her own loom. It
was a pleasure to observe Arachne winding the wool and curling
and twisting it into fine threads, ready to contend with Minerva
in the trial of her skill in weaving. Each put her loom in a
separate place and stretched the fine threads thereon. The com-
batants hastened to their work having first girded their robes
about their bosoms. They ply their deft hands, and their facile
brains encourage the work. Minerva weaves the Castle of the
Cecrops standing on the rock of Mars and of the quarrel con-
cerning the name of the country. Twelve immortals are seated
on their thrones in austere solemnity with Jupiter in their midst.
The individuality of each god is delineated and Jupiter is rendered
in regal splendour. Neptune the sea god alone is standing, and
with his trident he strikes the unhewn rock from which the salt-
water gushes forth. Minerva is shown furnished with the defending
^gis, and having on her head a helmet and in her hand a pointed
lance. At the place where the lance has pierced the ground a
green olive tree bearing berries is sprouting. The work is sur-
rounded by a garland. The gods look at it with astonishment.

But Arachne wove the story of Europa carried away by the bull.
The latter seems to be really living and the sea to be heaving. In
addition Arachne wove Asteria seized by the flying eagle, the loves
of Leda and the Swan, and of Antiope and the false Satyr. She
wove the scenes of Jupiter as Amphitrion wooing Alkmene ;
Mnemosin's seduction by Jupiter in the guise of a herdsman,
Aegina and Jupiter in the fire ; and lastly Dana3 tempted by gold
and Proserpine by a Dragon. An ivy garland went round the
border with flowers interwoven. The nymphs said about the
woven work of art that neither Minerva nor jealous mind could find
fault with the work ; Arachne's fertile skill brought her to Minerva's
level, but the latter's vvork was inspired by a nobler mind. Not-
withstanding Dante meeting her in Purgatory says :

" Although in colours variegated more,
Nor Turks nor Tartars e'er on cloth of State,
With interchangeable embroidery wove,
Nor spread Arachne o'er her curious loom."

Minerva viewed Arachne's work, and incensed, rent it into pieces,
chastising its founder with her broiding bobbins, whereat Arachne,
so keenly feeling her degradation, desired not to outlive it, took a
rope to a neighbouring tree, and hasted to end her troubled life.
As she in mid-air hung, Minerva with her wand changed her into
a spider (whence the Arachnida of our Entomology) her rope into

16

a web, and left her in perpetua to web, or as we now say, to weave.
Dante describing his visit to Inferno met her in the lowest woe,
and writes : —

" 0 fond Arachne ! thee I only saw-
Half spider now in anguish crawling up
The unfinished web thou weaved'st to thy bane."

From whatever causes our beautiful silk industry has met with
Arachne's fate, I feel sure that our new awakening to the necessity
of technical instruction and greater efficiency shall one day restore
our Arachne to her loom and real shape, and begin again to twist and
weave that charming thread of which some one has aptly said
that silk is to the fibres what gold is amongst metals, and the
diamond amongst jewels, and that we shall hope to see our country
by art creative power and thoughtful skill as lastingly famous as
were Moir and JNIohair from the Moors, Cambric from Cambay,
Bokhara for its buckram, Kenne for its cloth of Rayne, Cyprus for
its cypresse. Tucker-street, Bristol, for its tuck, the JSaracens for
sarsenets, Calicut for its calicoes, Tartarium cloths from Tartary^
so skilfully woven that

'• No painter's brush could match them hanging in
Broad bands of fine Tartarians."

so Chaucer wrote Fostat for its fustians, Arras for its arras,
Nankin lor its nankeen, Gaza for its gauze, Cordova for its cord-
wain, Baiae for its baize, Friesland for its frieze, Jean for its jean,
Daraietta for its dimity, Tarsus for its tabriz, Drogheda for its
druggets. Old Worsted (in Norfolk) for its worsted, Kersey for its
kerseymere, Liiissy for its linsey-wolsley, Guninghamp for its ging-
ham, Avignon for its papal cloth or poplin, five hundred years ago,
Masul for its nmslin, Damascus for its damask. Of ancient places,
many still famous, as Cashmere for its shawls, and formerly for its
kerseymere, Coptic Akhmim for its tunics and cloths, Dacca for its
floss and finest of muslins.

Let us augur that this beautiful but almost lost industry may be
soon regained, and that the £11,000,000 sterling we have been for
the last 25 years paying the foreigner for our manufactured silks,
shall be paid to a future and successful British industry, and that
if the ladies will only come to our aid and prefer British art in
silk, we shall be able to say that " they shall walk in silk attire
and siller hae to spare."

17

LIST OF THE LANTERN SLIDES.

1 . Cotton, sll0^ving its flat and twisted fibre of cellulose.

2. Linen Fibres, the elementary fibres of flax (Linum iisitatissi-

mum) are cells of pellucid membranes joined end to end with
can-like joints, between which form thickened vessels with
fibrous matter ; along with these are seen the woody fibre
or tissue, consisting of ''elongated cells or tubes, with
tapering extremities which overlap each other, and by their
union longitudinally form the fibres called hemp and flax."

3. Typical Woollen Fibre.

4. Spider Silk.

5. Silk of Saturnia carpini.

6. Silk Bave and Brin in contact and separated, also showing

sections.

7. Bave of Bengal silk, showing loops as seriposited, demonstrating

that the fibre is regular.

8. Eough ])laces in the silk fibre formerly supposed to be in-

herent, shown under tlie microscope to be merely unresolved
loops in rabble, caused by imperfect reeling.

9. Silk Fibres, Bave and Brin shown to be perfectly smooth,

although somewhat irregular in thickness.

10. Larva of Bombyx Mori feeding on the mulberry leaf.

1 1 . Bengal cocoons of Bombyx fortunatus.

12. Avenues of twigs upon which the larva of Bombyx Mori form

their cocoons in Italy.

13. Interior of magnanerie or cocoon sorting room.

14. Oven or chamber in which the chrysalides are killed to prevent

them escaping from the cocoons.

15. A Native Indian Wheel for silk reeling.

16. Improved European Machinery for cocoon-reeling with the

Tavelette Keller, and girl reeling.

17. Silk Moths of the Bombyx Mori.

18. Larva of Anthertea mylitta, or Tussur Silkworm.

19. Cocoons of the Tussur Silkworm.

20. Cocoons of the Tussur Silkworm attached to branches.

21. Indian Tussur Silk Bave, showing fibrilla3 and sections.

22. Indian Tussur Silk Brin, showing fibrillee separated.

18

23. Indian Tussur Silk Bave, showing foldings of the fibres as

laid by the silkworm.

24. Indian Tussur Silk Moth, Antheraea mylitta, male.

25. Indian Tussur Silk Moth, Antheraea mylitta, female.

26. Cocoons of Philosamia ricini, or Eria Silkworm,

27. Fibres from cocoons of ditto.

28. Moth of Philosamia ricini, or Eria Silk moth.

29. Anthcra3opsis assama, or Muga Cocoons.

30. Moth of Anthera3opsis assama, or Muga Moth, mala

31. Cocoon of Rinacula zulica.

32. Moth of ditto.

33. Cocoon of Actias selene.

34. Moth of Actias selene, male.

35. Moth of Actias selene, female.

36. Moth of Actias leto, male.

37. Moth of Actias leto, female.

38. Cocoon of the Atlas Moth, Attacus Atlas.

39. Attacus Atlas Moth, female, the largest moth known.

40. Moths of Bombyx Mori, for size comparison with Attacus

Atlas.

41. Scales from the moth's wings magnified.

42. A single scale from the moth's wings highly magnified.

43. Silk Weaving at Agra.

44. Jewelled and Spangled Cloth Embroiderers at work, Delhi.

45. Old Italian Embroidery.

46. Silk Embroidered Chasuble.

47. Old Italian Embroidery.

LIST OF SILK-PEODUCmG LEPIDOPTEEA,

BEOUGHT UP

TO THE PEESENT DATE.

Those marked thus a are in my collection in the imago state.
Of those marked aa I have both imago and cocoon. Of
those marked thus t I have the larva, cocoon, and imago. Of
those marked thus ft I have the imago, larva, and chrysalis.
Of those marked thus % ^ have the cocoon only. Those not
marked I do not possess in any stage, and I shall be glad to receive
larvae and mothes but more particularly the cocoons of all or any
of these species to assist me in the investigation of the physical
properties and structure of the silk fibres of the Heterocera, a work
in which I have for some time been engaged.

CLASSIFICATION.
Animalia.

Series 2 Metazoa (Huxley)

Sub-Series 2 \ Deuterostomata

Sub-Kingdom 5 \ Anthropoda

Class 4 Insecta

Order 7 \ Lepidoptera

I Glossata

Sub-Order Heterocera (Moths)

Group Bombycina

20

F.SMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

1 Sesiidae '

Trochilium apiforme

Europe

t

2 Hetergynidae i

Hetergynis penella

V

aa

1
!

„ paradoxa

j>

a

3 Zygaenidae

Ido chloros

j»

a

1
>>

„ globulariae

Britain

a

ij

„ statices

J)

a

»

„ geryon

»j

a

})

Zygaena pilosellae

)j

a

)}

„ exulans

5)

a

ff

„ meliloti

))

a

»)

„ trifolii

JJ

a

})

,, lonicerae

>J

>5

„ filipendulae

)J

aa

5>

„ carniolica

Europe

aa

n

,, faiista

V

aa

4 Nycteoliaae

Sarrothripa undulana

»)

aa

5}

Erias vemana

J>

a

J)

,, clorana

Britain

a

5>

Hylophila piasinana

)?

aa

J>

„ bicolorana

M

a

5 Lithosidae

Nola cucullatella

JJ

a

M

„ togatulalis

)J

+

+

)3

„ strigula

>>

a

1)

„ confusalis

>)

a

t)

,, albula

?;

a

))

„ centonalis

j>

a

)}

Nudaria murina

j>

aa

JJ

Setina irrorella

>>

a

55

Lithosia mesomella

})

a

,, miiscerda

))

a

)}

„ griseola

jj

a

))

„ stramineola

jj

a

5>

„ deplana

J5

a

))

„ lurideola

J>

a

)>

„ complana

}f

a

J5

,, caniola

})

a,

>>

„ pygmaeola

))

a

J)

„ sororcula

#>

aa

J5

„ quadra

>5

a

)>

Gnophria rubricollis

P

a

6 Arctiidae

Emydia striata

)J

a

)>

„ cribrum

)5

a

21

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

6 Arctiidae

Nemeophila russula

Jersey

a

5)

„ plantaginis

M

a

)5

Callimorpha do lu inula

Britain

a

)J

„ hera

J5

a

V

Pleretes uiafcronula

Europe

}}

Arctia caja

Jersey

cm

Jf

„ fiavia

Europe

})

,, villica

Jersey

a

»

„ purpurata

Europe

t

J>

,, liebe

J)

.tt

>>

„ aulica

'>

ft

»

,, casta

JJ

»

Ocnogyna parasita

JJ

t

)'

ISpilosonia fulgiuosa

Jersey

a

)>

„ sordida

Alps

J>

,, mendica

Jersey

a

»>

„ lubricipeda

JJ

a

))

,. zatima

Europe

a

JJ

„ mentlirasti

J)

a

})

„ urticae

JJ

a

7 Ilepialidae

Hepialus virescens

New Zealand

8 Cossidae

Cossus co?sus

Europe

ji

,, terebra

9 Cochliopodac

Heterogenea limacodes

Britain

a

j>

„ asella

JJ

a

0 Psychidae

Psyche cocoons

Senegal

>>

„ cocoons found in the

tea plant

India

>»

„ cocoons ■

Natal

»

„ cocoons '

J)

J)

„ cocoons 1

Dominica

*' !

,, unicolor

Europe

t

»

„ villosella

J)

tt

»

„ ecksteini

j>

ft

JJ

„ zelleri

j»

tt

» 1

„ plumifera

JJ

tt

>> 1

,, hirsustella

J)

tt

»j

„ cocoons

Trinidad

»>

Thyridopteryx ephcmcrae-
iormi '

North A

uierica

" 1

Euneta japonica

India

» i

Epichnopteryx helicinella

Europe

22

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

11 Lipariiae

Orgyia gonostigma

Britain

>>

„ antiqua

5)

>>

„ ericae

Europe t

)>

„ josephina

Algeria a

j>

,, leucostigma

North America

>>

Dasychira confusa

Amur

J5

„ selenitica

Europe

))

„ pudibunda

Britain

»)

„ fascelina

j>

»>

„ abietis

Europe

>J

Laelia coenosa

Britain

)J

Laria L nigrum

Europe

))

Leucoma salicis

Britain

})

Porthesia chrysorrhoea

a

>J

„ auriflua

,, a

>5

Psilura inonacha

„ a

5J

Ocneria dispar

„ a

J>

Darala ocellata

Indo- Australasia a

J>

Murlida mutans

„ a

»

„ citrina

„ a

J)

„ imdata

„ a

5»

Calepteryx collesi

„ a

12 Boinbycidae

Boinbyx mori

Italy, green
cocoons t

»

Italy, yellow
cocoons aa

}j

Italy, white
cocoons aa

j>

Japan, white
cocoons X

»»

China, white
cocoons X

»

French, white &
yellow cocoons t

>5

Broussa, white &
yellow cocoons X

})

Cyprus, large
white cocoons X

>)

Cashmere

cocoons I

}J

Burma cocoons X

>?

Ceylon cocoons j

23

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

12 Boiiibycidae

Bombyx mori

Kashniircocoons X

M

55

Saharumpur „ t

J?

}>

Cavvnpni

55 t

»>

1>

Labore

V t

>»

V

Persia

+

»

V

foitunatis

Bengal

55 -f

aa

»

»

crQ3si

>5

aa

>>

}}

textor

India

a a

»

n

meridionalis

55

aa

»

»

arracanensis

Arracan

and

Burmah aa

JJ

5)

sinensis

India

an,

»

55

rhadama

Madagascar aa

55

55

borocera

Nortb America

>J

»5

crataegi

Britain

aa

J5

5>

populi

55

aa

5>

55

francomcia

Europe

aa

5>

5'

alpicola

55

a

»

55

castrensis

Britain

f

')

55

neustria

55

t

)>

J)

americana

North America a

)5

>5

innocens

f)

55 a

JJ

JJ

henckei

Eossmer

a

5>

55

lanestris

Britain

t

>>

55

catax

Europe

t

J)

)5

rimicola

t

»»

5>

trifolii

Britain

t

'>

>»

abserrula

Spain

t

5> 1

'5

quercus

Britain

a

t

55

rubi

Britain

a

'J

))

Ursula

Africa

a

»>

55

ilicis

Europe

»

55

neogene

ff

JJ

55

loti

}y

}5

55

vandalicia

J>

55

fasciatella

»

J»

55

affinis

Chota Na

spur

>>

55

annulipes

Africa

1

55

baubinia

!

5

diego

)j

>>

55

fleurioti

»

55

panda

»

24

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

12 Bombycidae

Chondrostega pastrana

Europe

jj

Crateronyx dumi

a

J)

Lasiocampa potatoria

Britain t

„ albomaculata

Amoor a

,, laeta

„ a

})

pruni

,, aa

,, sumatrensis

Indo -Australasia a

,, quercifolia

Britain t

„ populifolia

Central Europe t

jj

„ tremulifolia

Europe a

„ ilicilblia

Britain a

„ new species

Indo-Australasia a

„ suberifolia

France & Spain a

„ pardale

Indo-Australasia a

„ lunigera

South Germany a

„ ablobulina

Saxony a

ff

pini

Central Europe a

if

biifo

Europe & Siberia t

})

otus

>» 11 '

., dieckmanni

Siberia a

„ lineosa

Europe

„ femorata

)j

})

Megasoma repanda

„ a

)}

Tlieophila Inittoni

India aa

,, mandariua

China

,, sheiwilli

S. E. Himalayas

,, bengalensis

Lower Bengal

Ocinara religiosa

Assam & Cachar

,, comma

Doon Mussoorie

>>

,, livida

Mussoorie

»

Trabala vishnu

India

)>

,, villosipes

>>

Trilochana varians

Calcutta

1}

Borocera postica

Madagascar

Eucheira socialis

Mexico

)

Demas coryla

Britain a

})

Eriogaster proximo

South America a

„ hirtiiia

„ «

Hylesia canitiae

Honduras t

f)

Titya undulosa

South America a

Macromplialia cliilensis

^^

>»

Boroceros postica

South Africa f

25

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY,

12 Bombycidao

Lebedaa pityocampacramois

Africa a

Gangei

arides rosea

In do -Australasia a

Drymoiiia senatoria

North America a

n

alba

ci

Nemeresa trimacula

South America a

Hydrias nacens

15 J> ^(

Gonometa postica

Africa a

Paliisti

a Lurmeisteri

South America cm

13 Endromidae

Endromis versicolora

t

14 Saturnidae

Attaciis atlas

51 55 1

India t

r,

Cynthia

t

n

ricini

,, aa

M

insularis

„ a

5>

bolivar

Trinidad

n

hesperus

Guiana a

M

aurota

South America aa

M

jacobae

5, 5 5 «

M

maurus

a

()

Orizaba

Mexico a

n

speculum

South America aa

n

sp.

Demerara (G. T.
Rsiw tay UQ, Esq.) aa

M

arethusa

South America a

M

canningi

Hindostan

)>

edwardsia

Sikkim

5J

guerini

India

)»

lunula

Ceylon

>>

obscurus

Cachar

)}

splendidus

Africa

3J

jorulla

Mexico

JJ

cranieri

Amboina

)?

andromeda

Valdivia

53

cinerascens

;;

53

larquinii

Lozou

55

vesta

Hindostan

51

walkeri

Ning-po

55

chapata

Mexico

„

betis

Brazil

55

aricia

Santa Fc de Bogota

55

ethra

Caraccas

55

zacatica

Bogota

55

vacuna

Ashantee

26

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

14 Saturnidae

Attacus mythimna

Zululand

fj

baumhiria

Senegal

J)

>i

irius

East Indies

•>

5)

saturnus

» )>

5?

J>

sylhetica

Sylhet

>>

J>

splendens

Bogata

J)

55

Javentera

Mexico

>;

))

gelleta

5<

>>

Platysamia oecropia

North America aa

H

colambia

Columbia a

ceonothi

North America a

tf

calleta

South America a

«)

gioveri

North America a

>>

Callosamia anQ;ulifera

„ „ aa

)J

Samia

proniethea

„ ., aa

Telea polyphemus

„ „ aa

))

Bunaea alcinoe

Africa a

5)

caffaria

South Africa a

tyrrhena

Zululand

5)

alinda

Sierra Leone

»>

J?

phaedusa

West Africa

55

M

nictitans

Tropical Africa

J5

angusana

Port Natal

;5

alopia

South Africa

farda

Port Natal

}j

5)

acetes

Cape of Palms

»

3>

mopsa

W. Africa

))

dorcas

})

J»

>>

epimethea

Ashanti

p

magniferae

Madagascar

zambesina

Zambesi region

;;

Copaxa decresens

South America a

J )

canella

Brazil

satellitiae

Bogota

J5

;:

expandens

Venezuela

)>

M

plenkeri

Mexico

')

Syntherata janetta

Indo- Austra-

lasia aa

?J

Sagana

sapatoza

Santa Fe de Bogota

>>

M

punctigera

M >>

»>

Thyelia nyctelops

Caffraria

J1

>,

bunaea

27

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

14 Saturnidae

Antheraea arata

Ashanti

1)

?j

cytherea

W. & S. Africa

i»

))

hersilia

Congo

}}

))

tyrrhea

S. Africa

jf

ff

clione

Africa

)j

f}

suraka

Madagascar

>•

11

larissa

Java

»

V

jana

Java

j>

if

astrocephala

Australia

»

ft

rumphi

Amboina

>j

1}

semper

Luzon

>»

11

purpurascens

N. Australia

»

}>

disjmicta

Moreton Bay

»

>'

pristina

New Guinea

p

5J

walbergi

S. Africa

)j

J>

helena

Tasmania

}}

?)

andamani

S. Andamans

»

5>

confuci

Shanghai

»

J5

mezankooria

Assam

1)

»>

nebulosa

Singbhoom

>?

J)

perrotteti

Pondicherry

))

assama

Assam aa

»

)'

mylitta

India aa

»)

J5

frithii

Sikhim a

j>

>J

helferi

„ a

»,

»)

menippe

Africa a

»

>»

roylei

India aa

»

J)

peinyi

China aa

»>

)J

feltoni

„ a

»

?5

belina

Indo-Australasia a

»

>)

yaiiia-mai

Japan aa

>>

J)

eucalypti

In do- Australasia a

jj

?J

simplex

Africa a

j»

Caligula simla

India aa

>j

»i

japonica

Japan

})

J J

cachara

Cachar

»>

11 _

thibeta

Thibet

»

Gyanisia isis

Africa a

»

Neoris

huttoni

N.W.Himalayas «

J)

J)

shadulla

Yarkund

))

))

stolugliana

Ladak India

»»

Loepa

katinka

India t

FAMILY.

GENUS

AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

14 Saturnidae

Leo pa miranda

India aa

))

„ sikkima

Sylhet

ty

,, sivalica

Mussoore

»

Rhodia new era

Sikkim t

)j

Hyperchiria io

NorthAmerica aa

»

)•

pamina

South America a

J>

»

metzlii

„ „ a

f»

j>

liberia

„ „ a

»

)»

erodes

M „ ex

a

M

scapularis

„ a

)>

»J

coresus

„ ,5 ci

))

»

viridescens

„ » a

7»

M

euryopa

„ „ ci

5>

>»

illustris

„ „ CL

J»

complicata

,1 „ a

»

,,

salmonia

„ „ Ci

»

n

beskei

,, „ a

»

n

nyctimena

„ ci

»

>)

aspera

„ V CI

J>

n

niyops

" '>

»

55

brazilieiisis

Brazil

)>

n

erythrina

Valdivia

»

5>

larra

Rio Janeiro

»

»

juDonia

Bagota

»

J»

convergGDS

Rio Janeiro

»

)J

beckeri

S. America

»

5J

oblonga

Santa Fe de Bogota

»

)J

jucunda

Surinum

3>

JJ

griseoflava

Chili

1>

J>

tridens

Brazil

))

>)

basalis

Venezuela

>f

>J

melanops

Brazil

if

)5

incarnata

Bogota

iy

>

cruenta

Brazil

}>

>t

approximata

Bogota

»

>/

memusea

Brazil

»>

J)

acutissima

Mexico

>j

'>

cinerea

Brazil

>5

»

megalops

Bogota

»

,,

pyrrhomelas

Santa Fe do Bogota

»

'5

combusta

»

>}

inornata

Brazil

29

FAMILY.

GENUS

AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

14 Saturnidac

Hyperchii

ia luteata

5}

janeira

Kio Janeiro

J J

hebe

Oajaca Mexico

J)

abas

Suriniim

)f

J)

iris

Oajara Mexico

35

continua

Mexico

<}

arminia

Surinum

,, 1

P

inficita

Ega

■' 1

incisa

Brazil

)>

saturniata

Bogota

>'

)J

nausica

Brazil

J)

J>

erythrops

Coquimbo

j>

)>

metapyrrha

Rio Janeira

})

)>

approxiiiians

?J 5>

))

subcana

3> >)

)»

>>

schaussi

N. America

))

varia

5) J)

}}

^J

ruberescens

Venezuela

;}

>J

saturata

Mexico

))

)l

jaims

Surinum

jf

fusca

S. America

J)

bilinea

Para, Brazil

;}

armida

Surinum

))

metea

Bolivia

))

Bralimaea lunulata ledereri

Europe a

)J

1)

certhia

Sylhet

))

J J

liicina

Sierra Leone

);

3>

undulata

Ning-po

;;

Saturuia

boisdiivali

Europe a

p

atlantica

i

Jt

>>

pyri

South Europe a

J J

schenkii

«

t>

>j

anna

Sikkim

}>

J3

carpini

JJ

lindia

Sikkim

))

J)

pyretorum

Siberia a

V

)5

spini

S. E. Europe and
W, Asia a

5J

>)

grotei

Uarjeeling

galbina

South America a

»

J>

jankovvskii

Europe a

30

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

14 Saturnidae

Satiirnia diana

Europe and
Siberia aa

„ mendocina

North America a

>»

„ caecigena

Europe & Western

»

Asia aa

ti

„ fuscicolor

Africa

19

„ nenia

Congo

»

„ said

Bagamayo

»

,, cajana

Africa

»

„ auricolor

J?

»)

„ wallengrenii

Caffraria

J>

„ usta

J>

„ attacus

S. Africa

))

V hoegii

S. America

»

„ lucina

Sierra Leone

>;

„ m el villa

Melville Island

M

., cidosa

Sikkim

»

Actias isabella

Spain a

»

„ artemis

Siberia a

>*

„ luna

North America aa

1)

„ selene

India aa

J)

,, ignescens

Andaman Isles

JJ

„ leto

East Indies

»

„ manas

Sylhet

>>

„ sinensis

North China

>»

„ dictynna

»>

„ mimosa

S. Africa

„ rosenbergii

Amboina

J>

Aglia tau

Central Europe &

»

Northern Asia a

f)

Rinaca zuleika

Sylhet

>)

Salassa lola

>>

»

Endaemonia semiramis

Honduras

>>

argus

Ashanti

>J

Perisomena semicaecia

Port Natal

>)

Giacla

>>

Polystbana rubrescens

South America aa

»

„ andromeda

„ » ci

>J

Hemileuca maja

North America a

»'

„ uevadensis

„ „ «

J5

pica

United States

»

Pseudohazis venosa

Carraccas

31

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

14 Saturnidae

Pseudohazis cglaiiteria

California

jj

A]jhelia apolliiiaris

Port Natal

»

Rhescyhtis hyppodamia

Ikio Janeiro

„ arraida

8. America

)}

„ hercules

Rio Janeiro

>>

„ aspasia

S. America

jj

sylla

Surinum

))

„ meander

Brazil

)>

„ xanthopus

5'

„ latifascia

„ kadenii

})

„ erythrina

South America

a

if

„ pandora

n J)

a

yj

Eudelia rufescens

5J 5)

a

ii

Urota sinope

Africa

a

»

Dysdaemoiiia glaucescens

Brazil

„ boreas

West Indies

Henucha smilax

Port Natal

yj

„ griinmia

S. Africa

f)

„ delegarguei

Port Natal

ii

Heliconisa impara

Spirito Sancto

ii

„ pagenstecheri

Micrattacus nanus

Rio Janeiro

„ dissimilis

South America

a

))

Mimallo despecta

South America

a

yf

„ amilio

Brazil

}}

, cicinnus

Chili

»

, artliane

Conception

JJ

, plana

Brazil

7)

, verago

Surinum

}•

, saturata

Rio Janeiro

}}

„ trilunula

Brazil

»

„ plagiata

)j

»

Microgone agathylla

Congo

))

Cyrtogone naenia

S. Africa

}

„ herilla

Africa a

7}

Molippa sabina

South America

a

)}

Coloradia venata

>) j>

a

»)

Dirphia tarquinia

Cayenne

aa

»

„ vulpina

South America

a

7)

,, cinnamonea

)j j>

a

))

„ marginata

a )f

a

32

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

14 Saturnidao

Dirph

la glaiica

South America a

J)

55

speciosa

„ aa

J)

1)

calchas

Rio Janeiro

5>

55

triangulum

55 })

>»

55

arasia

Surinum

»

5)

avia

55

)J

?'

polybia

53

J)

55

iirsina

Bolivia

J J

t)

concolor

Venezuela

)J

55

varia

Bolivia

}>

55

eumenides

Surinum

J)

55

obtusa

Para

)3

55

rustica

Surinum

JJ

5J

nubila

>>

>J

>»

agis

Brazil

„

55

pulchricornis

Venezuela

5>

55

semi rosea

Mexico

))

55

somniculosa

Brazil

}>

55

litura

Santa Fe de Bogota

)j

)5

hircia

Surinum

»

55

amalia

5J

JJ

55

plana

55

))

55

angulifcra

Peru

J5

55

multicolor

Rio Janeiro

>}

5>

rosacordis

55 55

>>

55

satellitia

5' 55

5>

n

purpurascens

55 53

»

>?

andulosa

>5 »»

J5

55

vagans

Brazil

>)

53

aconyta

Bengal,

(Joromandel

55

canitia

Surinum

)>

55

phadima

'»

> J

5)

metabus

}j

5'

obsoleta

55

i)

55

rivulosa

55

)J

5>

cognata

Valdivia

,,

»

Diagiiiata

>>

5>

3?

m.elanostigma

Brazil

J )

5»

maginella

Bogota

1)

55

quadricolor

Ega

>J

J>

pallida

Bogota

33

FAMILY.

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

14 Saturnidae

Caloptera ocellata

Crete

)}

Ceratocampa regalia

South America a

»

„ imperialis

Xorth America a

5>

Rhodia newera

Doubtful k5Ilk Producers
IN THIS Family.

India

))

Eacles or Ceratocampa

»

,, princeps

Brazil

,, laocoon

Georgia

))

„ ducalis

Rio Janeiro

)}

,, magiiificas

Para

»

,. pharonea

Brazil

J)

„ cacicus

Rio Janeiro

))

,, principalis
Silk Producers.

Brazil

15 Drepanulidae

Drepana lacerta

Britain

aa

if

„ harpagula

5>

a

a

„ falcataria

55

aa

If

,, binaria

)1

a

}>

„ cultraria

M

a

if

Cilix glaucata

Europe

a

a

Cricula trifenestrata

India

t

>j

Lonomoia albigutta

South A

merica a

16 Notodontidae

Harpyia furcula

Britain

jj

„ bifida

j>

+

>>

J, vinula

j»

X

?i

Stauropus fagi

>j

a

««

Notodonta tremula

5)

))

„ dictaeoides

J)

a

ii

„ ziczac

»

a

11

„ tritophus

aa

11

„ trepida

Europe

aa

n

„ torva

))

aa

)»

,, dromedarius

Britain

a

)f

„ chaonia

j>

a

}j

„ dodonea

JJ

aa

JJ

„ bicolora

})

a

11

Cophopteryx carmelita

)5

a

34

FAMILY

GENUS AND SPECIES.

LOCALITY.

16 N'otodontidae

Cophopteryx caraelina

Britain

a

jf

„ cucullina

5>

a

j>

Uropus ulmi

5J

ft

n

Asteroscopus sphinx

?>

a

)?

Pterostoma palpina

'?

a

))

„ nubeculosus

)t

a

M

Glupliisia crenata

>'

a

M

Ptliophora plumigera

V

a

>»

Pygcara anastomot^is

>?

ft

p

„ curtula

>J

»>

,, anachoreta

»J

M

„ pygra

»>

))

Heterocampa subrotata

North A

11 erica a

»)

„ quadrata

South A

nerica a

))

„ amazonic

55

a

)j

Edema albifrons

North America a

»

Cnethocampa processionea

South & Central
Europe a

J}

„ pityocampa

North Germany a

)J

„ pinivora

Europe

aa

))

„ herculeana

?)

a

1 TCymatoplioridae

Thyatira batis

Europe

t

M

Asphalia ridens

jj^

18 Noctuoe

Loma orion

Britain

>)

Dipthera ludifica

Europe

aa

>5

Acronycta auricoma

Britain

a

J>

,, meiiyaiithidis

5)

a

)>

Simyra venosa

)»

t

)>

Diloba caeruleocephala

Britain

))

Arsilonche albovenosa

J5

M

Clidia geographica

,,

t

})

Polia canescens

1}

t

1}

Panthea coenobita

il

t

>>

Memestra persicariae

Saxony

»)

Valeria oleagina

Europe

t

»>

Hadnea porphyrea

>»

t

n

Eriopus latreilli

)j

aa

M

Trachea atriplicis

>5

a

J>

Euplexia lucipara

J5

aa

n

Dicycla oo

»

ft

;;

Cucullia verbasci

J>

>J

„ scrophulariae

Britain

a

35

FAMILY.

18 :N'octuoe

19 Geometrae

20 Galleriae

2 1 Pyralidae

22 Tortricina

23 Talaeporidae

24 Lypusidae

25 Tineidae

26 Hypionomeus-

tidae

27 Pentellidae

GENUS AND SPECIES.

CucuUia lactucae

„ chaiiioinillae

„ tanecti

„ argentea
Eurhipia adulatrix
Plusia triplasia

,, moneta

,, festucae
Aedia funesta
Thalpohares dardouini

,, rosea

Erastria venustula
Catocala sponsa

,, promissa
Spinlherops spectrum
Odontopera bidentata
Eugonia autumnaria
Eugonia fiiscantaria
Epione Apieiaria
Pericallia syringariae
Rumia crataegata
Acidalia luteola
Niimeria pulverari
Cidaria sagittata
Eucosmia certata
Eupithecia togata
Galleria niellonella
Eurycreon turbidalis
Tortrix viridana
Talaeporia politella

„ pseudobombycella
Solenobia clatlirella

„ pineti

,, triquetrella

Psilothrix dardoinella
Tinea pellionella
Hyponomeuta evony melius
padi
„ plumbellus

„ padellus

Cerostoma denitella
Harpipteryx barpella
Plutella xylostella

LOCALITY.

Europe

a

t

j5

t

5>

t

V

«^

)»

t

')

t

5>

t

JJ

»J

aa

Britain

a

Europe

t

>'

t

>j

aa

j»

aa

J?

a

J?

ft

Europe

ft

Britain

+

V

-f

+

M

+

-♦-

i>

•f

V

X

■f-

J?

+

Hungary

+

J)

a

Europe

aa

M

t

»'

aa

^,

aa

5J

t

>>

^<3:

+

>)

+

Britain

a

)j

a

)>

>>

a

LIST OF SILK AND OTHER EXHIBITS.

1 . Entomological case of arranged moths, larvae, cocoons, and silk :

a. Larva of Tussur silk moth, Antheraea mylitta ; h. Male
and female moths of Antheraea mylitta ; c. Cocoons, whole,
pierced and showing chrysalides ; d. Tussur raw silk, native
reeled at Fatwah ; e. ditto reeled by the Italian method by
Messrs. Louis Payen and Co., at Behrempore ; /. Male and
female moths of the Chinese Tussur silkworm, Antheraea
pernyi ; g. Cocoons of Tussur silkworm, Antheraea pernyi ;
ditto in oak leaves ; h. Chinese reeled silk of Tussur silk-
worm, Antheraea pernyi ; i. Larva of Bombyx mori ; j.
Male and female moths of Bombyx mori; k. Cocoons of the
mulberry-fed silkworm, Bombyx mori, Italian, white ; /.
ditto, yellow ; m Hot-weather cocoons, Bombyx crsesi, and
cold -weather cocoons Bombyx fortunatus of Bengal.

2. Large diagram of larvae, moths, and cocoons, natural size and

enlai'ged, and raw-silk : a. Tussur silkworm or larva ; h.
Tussur moth, Antheraea mylitta ; c. Tussur cocoon showing
pedicular attachment ; d. Chinese Tussur moth, Antheraea
pernyi ; e. Chinese Tussur cocoon ; /. Mulberry fed silkworm
of commerce, Bombyx mori ; g. Bomb;yx mori moth.

3. Large drawing of native Arrah women reeling and winding

Tussur silk by their native methods.

4. Large drawing of the European method of cocoon reeling with

the Italian Tavelette Keller.

5. Diagram of the microscopic appearance of tussur silk fibre,

longitudinally and in section. Ditto, ditto showing separated
fibrillae.

6. Ditto, ditto, of the ordinary silk of commerce, Bombyx Mori,

longitudinally and in section.

7. Five bottles containing silkworms in spirit : a. Larva of

Bombyx mori ; h. Larva of the Tussur moth, Antheraea
mylitta ; c. Larva of Cricula trifenestrata ; d. Larva of the
eri moth, Attacus ricini ; e. Larva of the Muga moth,
Antheraea assama.

8. Grapelike clusters of the cocoons of Cricula trifenestrata, from

Kanchi, Chutia Nagpur, Bengal.

9. Tliree hand-reels used by the natives for reeling Tussur cocoons.

One hand-reel used by natives for reeling ordinary cocoons.

10. The Italian Tavelette Keller.

11. Map of India.

12. Convoluted flat tape of tin-plate showing scintillations of

Tussur silk.

1 3. Cylindrical rod of the same material, showing equal diffusion of

light.

14. Santal bow and arrow.

15. Hortus siccus of the tussur food-plants, with tussur cocoons

attached to the branches, collected by the Rev. A. Campbell
in the Santal Jungles in <Jobinpore, Manbhum ; a. Term-
inalia tomentosa ; h. Terminalia chebula ; c. Terminalia
aruiija ; d. Terminalia bellerica ; e. Shorea robusta ; /.
Zizyphus jujuba ; g. Lagestroemia parviflora ; h. Careya
arborea ; i. JJiospyros tomentosa ; j. Alstonia scholaris.

16. Tussur cocoons from Gay a.

17. Samples of Tussur raw silk reeled by Messrs. Louis Payen and

Co., at Behrempore.

18. Woodcutter's knife-belt with jingle-bells of tussur cocoons.

19. Tussur silk spun into yarn for weaving into sealcloth ; three

sizes, dyed and undyed, manufactured and lent by Messrs.
J. Bradwell & Co., silk spinners and merchants, Congleton.

20. Seal plush.

21. Dinner-table centre on satin, worked in Indian Tussur silk,

designed by the late John Sedding.

22. Tussur silk reeled at Fatwah.

23. Four specimens of 1 metre each, of brocades, the ornamenta

parts of Indian Tussur silk, woven in patterns of Louis
XVth and Louis XVIth styles ; manufactured by Messrs.
Lamy & Giraud, Lyons.

24. Small example of gold-coloured damask, manufactured by

Messrs. Perkin & Sons, 27, Curtain Koad, London, E.C.

25. Example of cream coloured figured damask, Indian Tussur silk,

manufactured by Messrs. M. Perkin & Sons, 27, Curtain
Eoad, London, E.C.

26. Three samples of Indian Tussur silk, figured damask, woven in

Leek, in 1879.

38

27. Two specimens of French-made open work dress damasks,

Indian Tussur silk.

28. Tussur Silk Chenille in various colours, and cut in a variety of

patterns.

29. A series of Tussur Chenilles, chenille fringes, trimmings,

tassels, toy monkeys, and swans, deep fringes of wool and
tussur mixed, and pom-poms manufactured and lent by
Messrs. W. and G. Kessler, Berlin.

30. Series of Satin Damask and Brocade of Indian Tussur silk,

manufactured by Messrs. Devaux and Bachelard, of Lyons,
1 metre each.

31. Six samples of Indian native woven bleached Tussur silk, and

three examples of Indian native woven unbleached Tussur
silk for dresses ; printed by Thomas Wardle, Leek.

32. Indian Tussur silk tram, dyed to the colour of 14 precious

stones, by G. C. Wardle, Leek.

33. A bundle of three threads organzine of Indian Tussur silk,

manufactured by Messrs. J. and T. Brocklehurst and Sons,
Macclesfield .

34. Lace, manufactured by Messrs. J. Kirkbride and Co., St.

Mary's Gate, Nottingham; the pattern part is made of
Indian Tussur silk, thrown by Messrs. J. and T. Brockle-
hurst and Sons, Macclesfield.

35. Cream coloured bleached opera fichu, of Indian Tussur silk,

lent by Mr. Maas, of Berlin ; also pocket handkerchief and
pieces of Tussur silk for rain and dust cloaks, lent by
Mr. Maas.

36. One 10-yard piece of native woven Tussur silk, *^ Dhoti" for

men's wear, woven at Giridi, Bengal, undyed, with red
border.

37. Indian Tussur raw silk, reeled by Messrs. Louis Payen

and Co., at Behremp )re.

38. Three bottles of powdered Tussur silk, for surface coating ; a

new French utilization.

39. Native spun and woven undyed cloth, made of the silk of the

Atlas worm, Attacus atlas, Nepal Terai ; red plaid on
undyed ground.

40. Sozni, or Bedcover, embroidered at Peshawur.

41. Doopata (turban) of cotton, embroidered with undyed Muga

silk. Worked at Dacca, Bengal.

42. Embroidered silk on cotton phulchari. Made and worn in

Amristar, Punjaub.

59

43. Embroidered border on satin, from Cutch, Bombay.

44. Berlin Tussur Silk Shawl.

45. Bi-coloured net. A marriage robe, most curiously dyed red on

one side and green on the other. Ulwar.

46. Leek re-production of the effect of dyeing a different colour on

each side as in the Ulwar sample. By Bernard Wardle.

47. Very interesting and ancient Indo- Persian figure weaving,

48. Trimmings for ladies' hats, manufactured from fussur silk.

49. Tussur silk cocoons attached to branches.

50. Cocoons of Anthraeaopsis Assama or Muga silkworm of Assam.

51. Raw silk ditto ditto ditto

52. Italian cocoons of the Bombyx Mori from Bozzoli.

53. Bengal cocoons of Bombyx Fortunatus or Desi caterpillar,

November bund.

54. Case containing samples of the improved reeling of Bengal

silk.

55. Native woven Tussur silk cloth cleaned.

_P ( Silken dwelling place of colony of Cnethocampa.

( Processionea or processional caterpillar. From the Riviera.

57. Turban, Bandana or tie and dye work, from Jeypore.

58. Ditto ditto ditto Ulwar.

59. Gujrati Bandhana or tie and dye work in spots and borders of

four colours, partly tied, from Jeypore.

60. Satin handkerchief, tie and dye work, from Jeypore.

61. Elaborate specimen of tie and dye or Bandhana work, Ulwar.

62. Illustration of the Great Buddhist Temple at Buddha-Gaya

near Gaya, Bengal.

63. Ancient Coptic silk fabric lY century. From Echmine, Upper

Egypt. Part of the clothing of rich Christian men and
women of the time.

64. Modern reproduction of ditto ditto ditto.

65. Fragment of Silk found by Mr. Flinders Petrie, in a Christian

Coptic grave of the 6th ceutuiy, A.D., at Fayum, Egypt,
1891.

66. Modern reproduction of ditto ditto ditto.

67. Pattern of the Silk Brocade with t^ilver ^lay blossoms, which

has been lately woven in Spitaltields, by Messrs. Warner
and Sons, for the bridal dress of Princess May of Teck.

40

68. Two designs found on the robe of St. Cuthbert, in his tomb in

Durham Cathedral, date about 1200, printed by Thomas
Wardle.

69. Samples of modern silks woven at Spitalfields, by Messrs,

Warner and Sons.

70. Samples of modern silks woven at Leek by Mr. G. H. Ber-

mingham.

71. Cocoons of Coccidae, Eriopetis festucae, Signorctia luzula,

Britain.

72. Case containing moths and cocoons of galleria cerella formed

by larva in the honeycomb of the beehive.

73. Case containing moths and cocoons of Bombyx rhadama also

sac or cocoon bag containing cocoons.

waraie, Thomas, 1831-1909.
On the entomology and uses
of silk